
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

oldsmobile-digest         Thursday, 14 March 1996      Volume 01 : Number 118


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From: Rocket Boy <clint@darklair.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 23:19:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Intro...

> > Anyway, it's nice to know that there are other Olds enthusiasts out
> > there.  8^)
>
> Frankly, you sound more like a Chevy enthusiast...  Why not put an Olds
> motor in it?

It would be more accurate to say that I'm a GM enthusiast.  But that's
beside the point.  The car came from the factory with a Buick V6.  It now
has a Chevy 305.  Yet the car is still an Oldsmobile.

I'd love to put a Olds 455 into the car, but that's just not possible now
with MD's emissions laws.  8^(  I can however, put in a newer V8
(assuming I retain all of that engine's emissions equipment).  I loved
the feel of the LT1 in my Z28, and the Aurora V8 is a little too pricey
for me.

I'm sorry if I offended anyone by wanting to put a GM corp engine into my
Cutlass.  That wasn't my intention.

Sorry if I ruffleed any feathers,
Clint

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 16:20:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Control Arm Bushings

On Wed, 13 Mar 1996, Tom Lentz wrote:
>      Shop around for someone to install the control arm bushings.  My
>      fiance went in to have an alignment done on her truck (olds powered,
>      so it's still on topic... barely) with a special coupon they had.  Of
>      course it was just a draw to get you in so they could tell you you
>      need $450 worth of front-end work.  She decided to get two second
>      opinions, both said she only needed lower ball joints and an idler
>      arm.  The cheaper place one was $150 for parts, labor and the
>      alignment.  Wow!  If you've tried to take off a ball joint without a
>      hoist and the proper tools you'll know it's well worth that in
>      skinned-knuckles-savings alone.

Front-end work always seems like a black art to me. I had the center linik
replaced on my Skylark a couple of years ago and the part was over 170.00,
when the same part for some other GM cars of that vintage was $50.00. Why,
I don't know. Then there was the one when I visited a shop and saw the
apprentice mechanic pounding on the front end of a late model GMC pickup
with a small sledge, and making an awful racket. Thought he was trying to
replace the entire subassembly, maybe for offroading, until I was told,
"nah, he's just doing a front-end alignment... those miserable GM pickups
are real SOBs for front-end work...".

I somehow wonder if either of those incidents were totally real and
factual...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 17:40:15 -0400
Subject: Stuff

> type the URLs in manually).  You'll see that, even with the HO 307, stall
> converter, and 3.73 rear end, the car runs 0-60 in 9.1s and 1/4 mile in
> 16.6s.  Its fun, but needless to say, tends to leave you wanting.  Moral of
> the story, if you want performance, find a 350.  Drops right in,
> everything'll hook up like stock, and there you go.

Sounds to me like they never went so far as to raise compression. That sounds
just like 9.0:1 max numbers.
- --chris--

> I have a 69 old Cutlass Supreme with a Am Deluxe radio. I would
> like to know if any one can tell me if oldmobile put any other type
> of radio in the Supreme style. I believe that Olds had a plain fm
> radio along with a AM-FM Stereo version but I do not know if
> they put in the Cutlasses. If any one could help me I would appreciate
> it                                                          Thanks
                                                Chuck Lobrano
Yeah, AM/FM's are seen advertised quite a bit. I even have an AM/FM/Wonderbar
from a 69 98- press the WonderBar, and it seeks the next station... even moves
the little pointer. Kinda eeerie!

> Is there any difference between Olds and Pontiac 455 engines?

More like, are there any similarities? Well, they do share the same trans bolt
pattern, thus can swap transes. Other than that, I doubt that any parts are
interchangeable. Points, dist'r cap, rotor, oil, that's about it.
  One important difference: I dont have ANY 455 Pontiac motors.
- --Chris--

> My question: how hard is it to rebuild one's front end? I know it's a
> loaded question, but generally speaking, what's required? The air
> conditioning setup is in the way on the left hand side of the car, but the
> right side is clear. Also, if it's a little while before I replace them,
> there's no chance my wheels would roll if, is there? =)

Well, it can be done. I heard all these horror stories about the srpings
flying out, etc. so when I did my car, I chained that dude down.
  Jack up the car, onto stands. Remove the front wheels. Remove the shocks,
stabilizer bar, anything else that's going to interfere. loosen the balljoint
nuts, but leave them on. a VERY hard smack, sideways, with a big [5# or
better] hammer, on the steering joint where the ball joint stem goes thru,
should pop them loose. Trick works for other taper-fit steering joints, too.
Chain the spring; NOTE where the lower end of the spring sits- often in or
near a hole in the A-arm. Jack up the lower ball joint just enough to allow
slack to remove those BJ nuts. Have a wire handy to hang the knucke from, not
dangle it from thje brake line.
  Anyhow, when I let the jack down, the spring just sorta sat there. After I
smaked it, it jumped out, but not very enthusiastically, and I had to kick it
back into place, but not real hard.
  Take the old bushings out, replace them, do the BJ's too, and anything else
that the budget allows while apart- shocks, brake hoses, stabilizer bar links,
etc. If you don't have a press or the hand-press tools, take it to a shop that
does, save the hassle.
  Not real bad. It was my first time, and it took a while. 'Course, I had shop
access, and a good thing, too, because the bad bushing had worn thru the
rubber, thru the metal sleeve, 1/2 way thru the A-arm. had to weld to fix that
properly...
- --Chris--

> more CID.  Also, If I had to build my 455 over, I'd make it square - ie
> increase the bore to match the stroke.  All of the "fast" 455's are built
> this way.  The Olds 455 in it's stock bore/stroke ratio pretty much sucks
> IMHO. - -Rod

So, the late 400 with the motorcycle-sized 3.8" pistons and a 4.25 stroke must
be a total dog, then, huh?

> What about it, though, could you put a cut-down 425 crank in a non-diesel
> block? That would save some weight.

Don't see why not... No worse clearance than in the 350 Die&Sell block...

> So, how about it; any opinions on cutting down a 425's crank to 2.5" main
> journals? How much meat on one of those?

Again, what's the question? It's *all* "meat"... Why would one NOT be able to
make a 3" round chunk of steel only 2.5" round... I don't see a problem.
- --Chris--

> identify an Olds produced V8 by it having a oil filler tube behind the water

How about those *10* bolt RACovers!?

> i was wondering where i might find any ID numbers etc on my tranny on my
> 65 F 85.

I believe it's on the round cover for the governor- like "65 NJ" or similar-
year and application code, which the '65 Service Manual should detail. You DO
have a real S.M., right?

- --front end rebuild--
> One thing I was pretty certain of before taking the car in and extremely
> certain of afterwards is that this was a job that I could not have
> done myself.  I don't have the equipment to remove frozen bolts, and I

> There is always one frozen bolt.

Depends where the car has been, too. I've seen MI cars that it'd be pointless
to even TRY to remove the susepension bolts- I even tried to cut one off with
a torch once, found that rust heats up, but does not actually CUT away...
Whereas, when I did my car, a CA car, everything just unbolted easily. -
--Chris--

> From: Rocket Boy <clint@darklair.com>
> Just though I'd say hi and introduce myself.  My name is Clint Thompson
> and I'm in the process of buying an '81 Cutlass Supreme from a friend.
> I'll be building up the car over the course of the next year with an LT1
                                                                       ^^^
  BLASPHEMER! :)
> and susp/tranny upgrades.
> Previously I've owned two Camaro's (an '89 305 and a '93 Indy Pace Car
> Z28), but I've spent years helping my step father repair several Olds
> (mid 70's Cutlass's, 98's, etc...) and I wish I had paid more attention.
> Clint

What's a "camaro"? Is that like a Cutlass? What's a "Z28"? Sounds like a W30
only different...
- --Chris--

> Frankly, you sound more like a Chevy enthusiast...  Why not put an Olds
> motor in it? - -Rod

Indeed. I second the motion.
- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 09:37:19 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Intro...

     Nah, we're just giving you a hard time 'cause "real cars don't wear
     bowties".  Glad to have ya here.  Any Olds is better than none.

     In reality, yeah I know the late model Cutlass's came with Olds,
     Buick, and Chevy engines.  And, I hate to say it, but from an economic
     standpoint I agree your best bet if you just want a fast G-body
     cutlass and have to swap drivetrains anyways is a Chevy SB.  You can
     pick 'em up down at the local parts store for $699 rebuilt. . .

     But the olds is so nice when you have to change spark plugs, or
     intakes, or the oil pressure sending unit, or. . .

     Tom L.


______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: Intro... Author:
oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET Date:    3/13/96 12:37 PM


I'm sorry if I offended anyone by wanting to put a GM corp engine into my
Cutlass.  That wasn't my intention.

Sorry if I ruffleed any feathers,
Clint



------------------------------

From: jrjet@whidbey.net (Dot & Tim McChesney)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 18:10:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Control Arm Bushings

If it is just the upper control arms that need the bushings, you can jack
the car up and place jack stands under the lower control arm and lower
again on to the jack stands. This places all the wieght of the car on the
springs still and you only have to remove the upper ball joint and the two
bolts holding the a-arm to the frame. once removed from the car take the
a-arms to a shop and have them install the new bushings in the a-arms. This
is a good time to put in poly bushings if you want to stiffen the front
end. Only one special tool is needed to do this and it is not very costly,
it is a ball joint spliter (pickle fork).  This is also good time to do the
upper ball joint, but it takes some work to get out drill or chisel out the
rivets they use to hold it in place then pop out old ball joint and bolt in
new joint. Most replacement ball joint uppers are bolt in. Some one else
mentioned frame spread you can fix that with the off set shafts or just
have a frame shop pull the upper a-arm mounts out and align at the same
time.
If you feel brave the lowers only entail the use of a spring compressor to
compress the spring this is done through the hole for the shock. If you
choose this route remove the shock compress the spring then loosen the ball
joints and split them. use some wire to hold you spindle out of the way.
you can diconnect the tie rod if you like and remove the cailiper and just
remove the spindle all together if drums well just hang to the side or
remove brake line and bleed brakes later. lower ball joint is pressed in so
a shop should do it unless you have a press to do it. If you have a press
you could do alll the bushing your self.
I did my front end on my cutlass with the rented tools and trips to the
local shop to press the new bushings in it took most of the day. Good time
to detail the A-arms while they are off the car.

Tim 71 convert

------------------------------

From: OLDSPWR@aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 19:04:13 -0400
Subject: Speedometer Calibration

 JK McCall, Although this is an answer for your question, I thought everybody
might be interested.

I have doing a little research over the past few months and have determined
how to calibrate (GM) speedometers.  To calibrate them, all you need to know
is tire size, rear ratio, drive gear (inside trans on shaft), driven gear
(the one the cable screws into), and the adapter ratio if there is one
present.  Since I initially began plugging the numbers using Quattro, I
realized that it would be easier in a program from, so I sat down and wrote a
windows program (that is almost done...)  So if anybody is interested, drop
me a line and I will finish it up and let you guys try it out.

By the way, I wrote it because I was playing around with gears and tire sizes
for my 79 Olds Cutlass.  So I went to my local Olds dealers and copied the
pages with the different gears available, and the chart that lists the
relation between tire sizes, tranny's, and rears.  I then worked backwards to
determine the ratio of the speedometer, which gave the ratio of .1:1, or
1:10.  I then stumbled across a old Car Craft that stated that by SAE
regulations a correctly calibrated speedometer will turn 1000 rpm's at 60
mph.  So I went through the numbers again and by relating angular velocity
(rpm's) to velocity (mph), presto, the number .1 came out again!   Just to
make sure, a good friend of mine who is a state trooper checked my car with a
radar gun and it was right on the money.

Once again, please give me some feedback on this and let me know if you are
interested!

                        Tom Millard OLDSPWR@aol.com

------------------------------

From: "Jeffrey C. Hunter" <jchunter@xcelco.on.ca>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 18:12:08 -0400
Subject: 1966 Dynamic 88

Howdy All!

   Am a new member to the Oldsmobile mailing list and would like to say
hello to all Oldsmobile-mailing list subscribers out there.
   I am to go and look at a 1966 Dynamic 88 shortly, and having never owned
an Oldsmobile that old, I am not sure what to look for.  As for problems I
mean.  We live in a cold area here in Ontario, and I have heard stories of
old GM's brakes freezing frequently.  Is that true?
   Also this 88 is missing its original engine (a 425 2 bbl) Are these
difficult to find.
   Thanks to everyone!


       _/       _/    _/_/_/_/_/   _/_/       _/_/   Jeff Hunter
      _/       _/    _/           _/ _/     _/ _/
     _/       _/    _/           _/   _/  _/  _/     Hunter's Flea Market
    _/ _/_/_/_/    _/_/_/_/_/   _/     _/    _/      P.O. Box #44
   _/       _/    _/           _/           _/       Camlachie,
  _/       _/    _/           _/           _/        Ontario, Canada
 _/       _/    _/           _/           _/         N0N 1J0

------------------------------

From: Roger Saladin <rsaladin@bright.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 20:13:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Speedo drive gears:

At 10:19 AM 3/13/96 -0400, you wrote:

>

> What I'm trying to do bring my speedo down (doesn't have to be perfect)
> to a normal indication.  Currently it registers 130Km/hr at 100 Km/hr.
> So its roughly 30K's over.  Which I could live with except my speedo
                 ^^^^^   make that 30% over. I'm reasonably sure that if
you check it at 50Km/hr, it will read 65.

> Speedo Drive gear:  10 teeth (purple, original)
> Speedo Driven gear:  18 teeth (brown, first crack with the dealer)
> Rear end:  3.08
> Tires: 215R75/15
    Given what you have, tire size and rear end are really irrelevant.
You need to slow your speedo gearing down by 30%, meaning either a 30%
smaller drive gear (7 tooth), or a 30% larger driven (24?).
>
> Now to get everything back to original I would have to purchase the 19
> tooth driven gear ($16.89)(natural) and the adapter ($76.12)(which has a
> ratio of 0.8241, stamped C)(there are 5 other adapters ranging from
>1.300
> to 0.7333 ratios).  So I can spend the $100 for the whole setup or just
> 20 bucks for a different gear.  GM's computer give me 5 gears with teeth
> ranging from 18 to 22 teeth.  I'm hoping that one of these will bring my
   And the 22 should be at least within reason.

>
>
>

------------------------------

From: ngomez@iadfw.net (Nick Gomez)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 19:19:49 -0400
Subject: Bushings/1965 F85 Xmission Code

Let me thank you all for the advice regarding my bushings. I'll probably
find a shop to do a rebuild for me, I really don't want to mess with
springs. Heck, while I'm at it, they can install N*E*W springs. The weight
of that 425 has lowered the front end quite a bit.

I spent the day changing all the courtesy lights in my ship. Now 'tis very
bright inside!

Thanks again...
- -----
Scott Nolan! Regarding your 1965 F85 transmission, I'm assuming it came
with a Jetaway transmission. If it's a Synchromesh, they don't have
anything - just a production date. The model/code numbers are stamped on
the servo cover located at the right hand side of the transmission case. A
limited number of 65 Jetstars will have a green metal plate attached to the
right hand side of the transmission case showing model/code numbers.

Model letters indicate transmission usage. Code numbers consist of 2 digits
for model year, two letters for transmission model number and three digits
to indicate the day the unit was built.

EXAMPLE: 65 LJ 001

When you find it, let me know and I can 'decode' it for ya! If you need any
other help with 65 Oldses...
BeaTniK

P.S. I keep meaning to go to the scrap yard and check out the 1965 F85.
Also, there's an original owner 1972 Cutlass Supreme convertible for sale
here in Dallas for $3000!

     ------------------------------------------------------------------
     1965 Oldsmobile 98 Town Sedan   TIP # 1048   I Trade Live Concerts
     Always Buying Nirvana Items   MiSTie # 53344       Keep On Skankin
     ------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Rocket Boy <clint@darklair.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 03:38:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Stuff

> What's a "camaro"? Is that like a Cutlass? What's a "Z28"? Sounds like a W30
> only different...
> --Chris--

A Camaro is kinda like a Cutlass but different.  For instance, they did
away with things like the Trunk, frame, body stiffness, etc...  Also,
it's about the same size as a late model Cutlass on the outside, but much
smaller on the inside.  Totally impractical...  8^)

Clint

------------------------------

From: gludlam@bcinet.net (Gregg Ludlam)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 20:56:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Control Arm Bushings

>I went to get some new tires today at NTW, and I decided they might as well
>align my front end. When I came back, they said they didn't do the
>alignment because my control arm bushings needed to be replaced.
>
>I wonder if they meant the upper or lower bushings. Anyway, they estimated
>it would cost about $200 for parts/labor. I think this is too much, but am
>I wrong? I was eventually going to buy a Kanter front end rebuild kit, I
>believe those bushings are included.

I had my upper control arm bushings and alignment cams replaced to the tune
of $350, including the bad alignment (no steering wheel centering) by a
reputable Olds dealer.  I know for a fact that ONE mechanic spent all day
doing the job - seemed to be reasonable to me.


- -Gregg, the '67 Toro guy

------------------------------

From: gludlam@bcinet.net (Gregg Ludlam)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 21:03:58 -0400
Subject: Re: More Wiper Fun was...Re: Wiper Motor Adventures

What about taking the motor to a reputable motor/electrical shop that can
rewind the stator/rotor?  Even in our rural locale here in southeast NC,
there are at least two shops that advertise they'll restore power window and
seat motors, alternators, starters, and yes - wiper motors!


- -Gregg, the '67 Toro guy

------------------------------

From: gludlam@bcinet.net (Gregg Ludlam)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 21:08:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Control Arm Bushings

>>There is always one frozen bolt.
>
>This is a metaphor for life, isn't it?  :-)

At the very least, it's the "Murphy's Law" for classic car owners!


- -Gregg, the '67 Toro guy

------------------------------

From: GUEISEPPI THE BARBER <JJF96@uno.cc.geneseo.edu>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 21:20:43 -0400
Subject: new kid on the block!

joe ferrero
13 rorbach lane
geneseo, ny 14454
(716) 243-3437

if you know the location of any 46-48 oldsmobile pparts, 68-72 nova
parts, or information related to those vehicles or the "where abouts"
of a 1928-1934 packard sedan or phaeton please contact me at the above
address.

		--joe
hello there.  my name is joe, i've just turned 22, in college and have a
few cars.  My oldest is a 47 oldsmobile.  this car i would like to make
a low rider (with the hydrolic lifts).  if anyone knows how to do this,
any detailed info would be great!  I would also love to drop in a 455,
but i would like to keep the gas situation under control.  instead i'll
be droppin in a 350. any suggestions on the motor or tranny mounts?  how
are JC Whis greatly appreciated, but keep in mind, i'm on a tight
college student budget!!

I also have a 1948 olds model dynamic 66 i restored back to origional.
i hope to use the 47 as a tow vehicle for the 48 to take it to shows.

i also have a 1970 nova with a 307 v-8, my parents were the origional
owners of it so don't hold the bowtie against me!  =)

i also have a 1976 buick electra limited, if i'm not mistaken, it has an
olds 455 turbo-hydramatic in it.  i rarely drive it due to the gas
situation.

other than that, hey....   i love the oldsmobiles!



any help and suggestions are greatly appreciated!



thanks,



- --joe   =)

------------------------------

From: Mark Wolfe <markw@wwa.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 22:08:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Intro...

Rocket Boy wrote:
>
> Hi!
>
> Just though I'd say hi and introduce myself.  My name is Clint Thompson
> and I'm in the process of buying an '81 Cutlass Supreme from a friend.
> I'll be building up the car over the course of the next year with an LT1
> and susp/tranny upgrades.
>
> Previously I've owned two Camaro's (an '89 305 and a '93 Indy Pace Car
> Z28), but I've spent years helping my step father repair several Olds
> (mid 70's Cutlass's, 98's, etc...) and I wish I had paid more attention.
> *sigh*
>
> Anyway, it's nice to know that there are other Olds enthusiasts out
> there.  8^)


Almost as bad as bryce's chevy powered olds cover page.    Yikes!
Don't you know that by removing the olds power plant, you effectively
removed the soul of your car.    Might as well be a monte carlo.  :)
Don't worry, we'll have you talking olds speak yet.    First thing you
need is the bible, which can be had from mondello.    Next, you need to
learn to say "C" heads, vs. 2.02's.   Instead of LT1, we say W30.
Besides, I do believe there are laws against sticking chevy engines in
oldsmobiles.   Anyway, welcome to the list, I see we have our work cut
out, but you can still be saved.  :)
Cul,
Mark
Wolfe

------------------------------

From: Jeff Stanish <stanishj@svpal.org>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 22:33:39 -0400
Subject: Re: 69 H/O Identification

Right on JON!

On Wed, 13 Mar 1996 Jon442@aol.com wrote:

>
> >'69 HO will also have the Hurst Olds insignia on the upper part of
> >the front seats above the ribbed back section.
> >
> >I think the code on the TH400 should be "AO", but I'll have to check this
> >
> >
> These replies were posted on the board about a '69 H/O and are not correct.
> There are gold stripes on the headrests, but no insignias. And the tranny
> code is OH.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jon Wessel
> Hurst/Olds Club of America Director
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Alex Holland" <hollanda@cia.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 22:38:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Radio question

Date:          Tue, 12 Mar 1996 20:47:16 -0400
From:          Anectine@aol.com
To:            oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject:       Radio question
Reply-to:      oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca

I have a 69 old Cutlass Supreme with a Am Deluxe radio. I would
like to know if any one can tell me if oldmobile put any other type
of radio in the Supreme style. I believe that Olds had a plain fm
radio along with a AM-FM Stereo version but I do not know if
they put in the Cutlasses. If any one could help me I would appreciate
it                                                          Thanks
                                                                  Chuck
Lobrano

To the best of my knowledge, only the Canadian models distributed in
eastern and central canada had an am-fm optional radio.  None of the
U.S. models to my knowledge had this option.  This is mainly due to
the U.S. not supporting fm radio back in 1969.  Neither did western
Canada.  There was no fm only radio as am was 99% of the market back
then and it would never have sold, that's why the fm-am option.  If
you are considering this option, try the old wrecking yards in
Ontario, or gut the interior and add in a modern internals.   Alex

------------------------------

From: "Alex Holland" <hollanda@cia.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 22:45:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Intro...

> Date:          Wed, 13 Mar 1996 09:37:19 -0400
> From:          "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
> To:            oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
> Subject:       Re[2]: Intro...
> Reply-to:      oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca

>
>      Nah, we're just giving you a hard time 'cause "real cars don't wear
>      bowties".  Glad to have ya here.  Any Olds is better than none.
>
>      In reality, yeah I know the late model Cutlass's came with Olds,
>      Buick, and Chevy engines.  And, I hate to say it, but from an economic
>      standpoint I agree your best bet if you just want a fast G-body
>      cutlass and have to swap drivetrains anyways is a Chevy SB.  You can
>      pick 'em up down at the local parts store for $699 rebuilt. . .
>
>      But the olds is so nice when you have to change spark plugs, or
>      intakes, or the oil pressure sending unit, or. . .
>
>      Tom L.
>
>
> ______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ > Subject: Re: Intro... > Author:
oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET > Date:    3/13/96 12:37 PM > > > I'm
sorry if I offended anyone by wanting to put a GM corp engine into my >
Cutlass.  That wasn't my intention. > > Sorry if I ruffleed any
feathers, > Clint > >Kill Him, Kill Him.....He said that Chevy
word.....Kill Him. > >

------------------------------

From: "Alex Holland" <hollanda@cia.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 22:51:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Engines available

> Subject:       Engines available
> To:            oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca (oldslist)
> Date:          Wed, 13 Mar 1996 14:48:13 -0400
> From:          "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
> Reply-to:      oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca

> Went to the *other* scrap metal place to unload the trailer, get rid of
> appliances, etc. today. As luck would have it, there sat a 350 with #5
heads, > and another with #7 heads. I bought both. How very nice to be able to
do so w/o > hassle. > > So, anybody wanting a 350 core motor, or just some #5
or #7 heads, I'll sell > them  real cheap right now. $40/pair plus shipping.
Oh, the #7 heads will need > at least one guide- they treat those things like
junk down there! If you want, > I can even dismantle the heads, have them
cleaned, checked, and treated to a > valve job and guide repair, for a nominal
additional fee. I'd really rather > just ship them off as is, and guaranteed
to pass crack inspection. > -- > Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist 
>
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu > > The question is, which side of the boarder are you
on.  I'm in canada.  Shipping across the border is way too much hassle.

------------------------------

From: Bob0Barry@aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 00:56:55 -0400
Subject: Re: '86 Salon ---> 442 (was Re: Transmission Question)

In a message dated 96-03-13 18:45:52 EST, you write:

>Along the lines of finding a 442 or H/O (mid 80's) for the 307, I noticed a
>national ad for GM-Goodwrench replacement engines.  The ad listed long
>blocks for both the 307 and 307-roller motors, and for under $2K as I
>recall.  Pricey, yes - but the come with a 5 year/50K mile warranty
>according to the ad.  The same ad also listed 403's as well...

Where did you see this ad? Is there a price list for these replacement
motors? Or would any GM dealer have them available?

Did it mention whether they were remanufactured, and if so, which parts were
used? Are they available in short blocks as well?

------------------------------

From: GUEISEPPI THE BARBER <JJF96@uno.cc.geneseo.edu>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 01:54:54 -0400
Subject: Re: '86 Salon ---> 442 (was Re: Transmission Question)

joe ferrero
13 rorbach lane
geneseo, ny 14454
(716) 243-3437

if you know the location of any 46-48 oldsmobile pparts, 68-72 nova
parts, or information related to those vehicles or the "where abouts"
of a 1928-1934 packard sedan or phaeton please contact me at the above
address.

		--joe
i've seen the motors for b.f. goodwrench advertised in the back of some
of the "hot rod" and "super chevy" magizines.  it is usually in small
print...  but look close.... you'll find it!!!  if i'm not mistaken
they're all new parts with that warrenty.


- --joe  (the college student)

------------------------------

From: John Schmich <schmich@AZStarNet.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 02:38:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: '86 Salon ---> 442 (was Re: Transmission Question)

At 07:07 AM 3/12/96 -0400, you wrote:
>

>
>     So why don't *we* start a "recipie for power" for the late-model
>     307's?  Or at least a recipie for "more power than stock" since we
>     ain't gonna compete with 455's and built 350's.  We can use some of
>     the tips from the Grand National and Monte Carlo SS recipies, such as
>     for traction control, 2nd gear torque converter lockup switch, etc.
>
I'm up for that!

>     I think what we really need here are some people who race their 307's
>     regularly so that we can get some hard numbers from various
>     modifications.
>
I don't know about regularly, but I'll sure let you guys know when I get my
first and fastest time slips!
I'll race regulary when I build my 1987 Cutlass Salon painted Grand National
black, supercharded 307 bored .080 over, N.O.S, running Turbo Blue and a
parachute out the back!!! (YEAH RIGHT, I WISH)

>     I'd be happy to start keeping track of the data, bookeeping if you
>     will, until we get enough data to develop something.  I don't drag my
>     car, but I do keep good track of gas mileage, driveability (subjective
>     of course), and daily-driver "manners".  My feelings on the matter of
>     a "recipie" is that items therein should be organized on a "bang for
>     the buck" basis.  i.e. the cheapest and/or easiest mods that give the
>     best power should be first.  Perhaps mentioning things like you should
>     do mod A before you do mod B to take full advantage of B, even though
>     A doesn't do much by itself.
>
>     Anybody know of a source for headers for the 307?  Preferably
>     emissions-legal?
>
Tom L., I know I asked you if you had any ideas, but I just went down to the
performance shop yesterday and ordered a set of Hedman headers.  The catalog
said that it included all the equipment to be 49 state legal (Cal.).  It
also said that it reduces down to 3" so I'll have to buy another reducer.
Another worry is that I will have to do changes to the stock exhaust to
still contain the catalytic converter.  I bought this through desperity so
lets hope it works!!!

Brandon
86 Salon
>______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
>Subject: Re: '86 Salon ---> 442 (was Re: Transmission Question)
>Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
>Date:    3/12/96 10:36 AM
>
>You could get a list of parts numbers (cam, etc...wait a minute....
>ta da...from an earlier post by Tom Lentz....
>
>>      Long Duration cam shaft            22519934
>>      High Rate Valve springs            22510372
>>      Harmonic Balancer                  417142
>>      Rochester 4MV carb                 17083553
>>      Dual Snorkel Air Cleaner Assy.     25042690
>>      Intermediate Exhaust Pipe          22516113
>>      Muffler and Tailpipe Right         22526204
>>      Muffler and Tailpipe Left          22526205
>
>Bottom line is, if you're going to do a swap, you might want to consider
going >ri ght to a 350 or larger.  Much as it pains me to say it, even a HO
(vin-9) 307 >jus t isn't....well, just isn't a 350. :-\  Which is not to say
it ain't fun, >and not > to discourage you, in fact if more people messed
around with the 307's maybe > we' >d hit on some killer "recipes for power",
kinda like the staged buildups you can >find for the Turbo-T's and stuff. >
 >Ed Atlee   '77 Cutlass Supreme >eda@dl.tc.faa.gov  '84 Hurst/Olds > R O C K
E T P O W E R E D ! ! > > >

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 03:12:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Stuff

Well if you notice, Olds rod journals have big old holes drilled through
them, I would assume to make them lighter.  I wonder if that would play
a part in how much you could cut it down?

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 03:54:00 -0400
Subject: Re: I'm Dumb, You're Not!

>        LOVE YOU, MAN!    (whew, got overwhelmed there for a minute...   :) )
>
>         'Yer not gettin' my Bud Light, Gregg!!!   :)


>-Gregg, the '67 Toro guy
>
>
>
>

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 03:54:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[3]: break-in

>I assume you will be using the TRW forged pistons.  From what I can
>remember about doing my own 455, these forged units weigh more than the
>stock cast pistons and create an unbalanced condition.  The need to
>balance your rotating assembly is **less** if you're not going to rev
>the engine over about 5000 rpm, but will certainly shorten its eventual
>life.  I didn't balance my own engine and sometimes wonder just how
>much effect it will eventually have.

     Well worth the $$$ if you have the pistons out for any reason.  If you
aren't building it that far, then it may be overlooked, but the
performance/efficiency gained by having the assembly balanced far outweighs
the $100~ $150 you may spend on the machining.  The engine will idle
smoother, rev happier, and live longer.  Ya can't beat that!

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 03:54:00 -0400
Subject: Re: More 69 H/O Info

>          A funny story that's marginally related:
>
>          I saw an ad for a "69 442" with a "Hurst front end".
>          Needing parts for my H/O, I went to check it out.  Turns out
>          the car is a 68 442 in about negative 1 condition.  The guy
>          already has the engine and trans out of the car with the
>          intent of putting them in his 55 Ford F-100.  I'm ready to
>          turn around and leave when I happen to lift the hood on the
>          hulk.  Noticing the red fenderwells and hoses leading to the
>          under-the-bumper scoops, I spend about the next hour
>          convincing the guy to sell me the complete car with the
>          engine and trans.  I got the whole thing for $800.
>
>          The car had 23,000 original miles (applied a quarter mile at
>          a time), all W-30 parts except the air cleaner, UHF
>          ignition, P/W, P/Seats, tilt, and dealer-installed 4:33 rear
>          end.  The car even has the original radiator hoses,
>          including the wire hose clamps and the little staples used
>          to hold the hose clamps in place on the hoses on the
>          assembly line.  The car's still not restored, but it is
>          complete.  Just goes to show you, you never know what you'll
>          find!

     Ooh, Ooh, Aahhhhh.  I'm Getting Wet!

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 03:54:00 -0400
Subject: Re: 442 spoiler

>I am interested in info on where I can get a spoiler (NOS) for a 70 442.
> Also, how is this put on the car?

     Speaking of which, how about a spoiler for the 81-87 442;H/O; Cutlass?
Anyone have lines on those?  Perhaps the hood w/scoop, too?  (I asked Chris
earlier with no luck, but anyone else seen any around?)

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 04:24:00 -0400
Subject: Re: 454 Small block

>What about it, though, could you put a cut-down 425 crank in a non-diesel
>block? That would save some weight.

     Wouldn't be nearly as bulletproof, tho.  Plus the Die&Sell block's main
jounals (as I recall) are a good 1/2" bigger than the gas relatives'.  The
crank would need to be shaved down a lot more.  It's an overstatement, but
the though "bulletproof as styrofoam" comes to mind!  Could be wrong...

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 04:24:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Speedo drive gears:

> What I'm trying to do bring my speedo down (doesn't have to be perfect)
> to a normal indication.  Currently it registers 130Km/hr at 100 Km/hr.
> So its roughly 30K's over.  Which I could live with except my speedo
>only
> registers 140 and often it remains buried...
>

> Now to get everything back to original I would have to purchase the 19
> tooth driven gear ($16.89)(natural) and the adapter ($76.12)(which has a

     Kind of an aside/tangent, but this is probably the best place to put
it...

     I had an idea a while back to make a simple 140 mph speedo for the
Olds.  (We've all seen Summit's 140 for the Five Point Slows.  Like THEY
need it!)  The idea came to me after checking out a Cutlass from
Saskatchewan (Canada)  ---(If anyone from Sask. is on this list, I have one
quick question...  Running Boards on Cars????)  This car had 'em, along with
about 90% of the cars in the Province.  I just don't get it!!!  Anyway, I
was noticing the guage package, particularly the speedo that goes to 140
km/h.  There was no mph sublines on it, either.
     Here's the theory.  A little dab of black paint on the speedo face to
cover up the "km/h" and a thread on speed reducer at the tranny, and
"whammo!" a 140 mph speedo, for Olds.  How simple can it get?
     I've never seen such an adaptor, nor have I any clue of its existance
outside of my own imagination, but with this wonderful world of computers, I
have the opportunity to probe everyone else's imaginations, on the off
chance someone else had the same idea, and the facilities to put it into
reality!  (Whew!  How's that for a big load of stuff!!!)
     Anyone out there ever heard of such a thing?  If not, I guess it's food
for thought for any other DIY'ers.

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 04:24:00 -0400
Subject: Re: engine choice

>In a message dated 96-03-12 03:53:19 EST, you write:
>
>>This will be my daily driver also, will a 455 give
>>>me that much worse gas mileage than with a 350 with performace parts?
>>
>>     Umm, Oh sure, you just HAD to go throw THAT in there!!!!  Actually, if
>>tuned properly and politely, you should do fairly well on the highway
>>(especially if you keep highway gears in it!)  Maybe around 18 or so.
>
>Well, by comparison, my '70 455 SX, with quadrajet and 2.56 rear gears, got a
>solid 13mpg combined city/highway, and would get maybe 15mpg driven
>conservatively on the highway (rarely did that). This was gratifying when my
>friend in a brand-new (for then) '82 T/A with a measly 305/4spd was getting
>14mpg! You may get comparable mileage in a later Cutlass with a 455 sans
>emissions equip. A 350 with emissions equip might get the same mpg (13-16
>combined), and perhaps from 15-19mpg if you run highway gears and build it
>specifically for economy.

     Also, if you keep the TH350-C in there, (and hooked up) you will gain a
little efficiency.  The lockup convertor will eliminate slippage at highway
speeds, and is often good for a couple mpg's.

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 04:38:00 -0400
Subject: Re: engine choice

>I think youve hit it right on the nose with driving style...if youre the
>type of guy who likes to feel a certain amount of power when he drives,
>you'll be needing to burn the same amount of gas in either engine to get
>that power...I'm driving a Chevy 350-equipped Regal while my Cutlass
                           ^^^^^^^^^^^^         ^^^

          ???!!!???  So, uh, how would you prefer the flames?!!
     Sounds sacriligious (sp?) to me!  (Ya had to expect that, right?)
     It's my civic duty to give you a hard time there!!!   :)


>engine is being rebuilt...and it gets the same gas mileage with a similar
>cam, compression, and gears. I'm sure the looser stall doesn't help any,
>but it sure helps power be closer to resembling the 455 (in its
>most Chevy of ways).  I was as happy with the 455 scooting the heavier car
>along at 2000rpm as I am at 3500 in the Chevy.

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 04:38:00 -0400
Subject: Re: More Wiper Fun was...Re: Wiper Motor Adventures

>Maybe there is a weak (shorted) spot on the wiper motor's armature, and
it's now
>resting at that spot.  Check the armature and field coil(s) with a ohm
meter for
>continuity (normal voltage path).  This is generally 0.1 Ohm or probably
under >10 Ohms through the load.  Check for any shorts (abnormal voltable
path). This >would show up as anything other than almost infinite resistance. >
>The shop manual is best, but just about any motor diagnosis writeup would
give >the basics.

     Probably >>>TOO<<< simple, here, but occasionally overlooked...  is the
motor actually grounded?  I don't remember offhand the original posting's
sequence of events, but if the motor was moved between trials, perhaps the
ground point was lost.  I had this problem on mine.  I had about five wiper
motors to test, and I knew one was good, for sure, but I didn't know about
the rest.  I stuck a couple bolts in and tried each one.  (It was raining,
of course, otherwise I would have put off the procedure even more!)  After
the good one didn't work any longer, I got a little upset, and kept trying
others.  On the fourth one, I noticed that little ground strap on the
hardest-to-get-to bolt (Logically, the one I'd been neglecting to put in...)
Stuck it back in there, cussed a few times, and cranked it up just fine!
Made me feel really bright!
     Anyway, sometimes the obvious points are overlooked, so I figured I'd
mention my soaking experience.  Good Luck.

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 05:22:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Control Arm Bushings

 Thought he was trying to
>replace the entire subassembly, maybe for offroading, until I was told,
>"nah, he's just doing a front-end alignment... those miserable GM pickups
>are real SOBs for front-end work...".

     As far as I'm concerned, they ALL are SOB's for front end work!  As
George Carlin once said about Golf on TV:  "It's like watching flies f***!
I get more excitement picking out socks!"

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 05:22:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Intro...

>It would be more accurate to say that I'm a GM enthusiast.  But that's
>beside the point.  The car came from the factory with a Buick V6.  It now
>has a Chevy 305.  Yet the car is still an Oldsmobile.
>
>I'd love to put a Olds 455 into the car, but that's just not possible now
>with MD's emissions laws.  8^(  I can however, put in a newer V8
>(assuming I retain all of that engine's emissions equipment).  I loved
>the feel of the LT1 in my Z28, and the Aurora V8 is a little too pricey
>for me.
>
>I'm sorry if I offended anyone by wanting to put a GM corp engine into my
>Cutlass.  That wasn't my intention.
>
>Sorry if I ruffleed any feathers,

     No worries...

     Here's a thought, I'm sure it won't cause too much of a stir, here.
I'd like to do this with my '83.  Find a wrecked GNX, yank the 3.8 Turbo
SFI, and all electronics/emissions/exhaust/intercoolers/etc.  (Hell, the
whole frame!) and stick that critter in there.  Providing they didn't hack
things up when they did the nasty (a 305?!!?  If they want to put a bowtie
in it, I can forgive, but at least use one that RUNS!!!!) it would go in
right nicely, and smoke that 5.0 like nothing, without smoking the
smogsites.  Little work, major sense of accomplishment.  $$$ somewhere
between the LT1 and Aurora!

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 05:22:00 -0400
Subject: Re: More Wiper Fun was...Re: Wiper Motor Adventures

>Remember the rule about fixing _anything_ things in old cars:
>
>                                Nothing's ever easy.

     Or, on the optomist's side, it's always easier the second time!

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 05:22:00 -0400
Subject: 90 olds trofeo(toronado)

>X-POP3-Rcpt: buehner@cis
>Return-Path: <RBoudreau@gnn.com>
>Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 11:51:23
>From: RBoudreau@gnn.com (Robert  Boudreau)
>To: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
>Subject: 90 olds trofeo(toronado)
>
>I am looking for front end parts for my car.  I was wondering if you
>knew where to search?
>
>

     Can anyone light the way?

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 05:22:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Stuff

>
>What's a "camaro"? Is that like a Cutlass? What's a "Z28"? Sounds like a W30
>only different...
               ---Yeah, Slower!!!!


     No, No, No!  Ya got it all 'rong!  The camaro are one of the species we
like to keep around to test the efficiency and range of our rear-view
mirrors!!!

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 05:22:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Intro...

     Well, welcome aboard, but I'll warn you now.  Yer gonna catch a lot of
crap about bowties.  The only reason I can give for putting a 350 Blowtie in
the Olds is if it came equipped with the "Insult 5.0" (the 305) the motor
mounts and tranny are too much more to swap!  While the LT1 has its famed
performance potential, there is a lot more to be said about Olds
performance.  It may cost more, but it sets us apart from the crowd.  Anyone
can buy enough parts to make a Chevy fast.  The Olds doesn't need that many
parts (Shameless plug!)  If you already have the engine, and want to put in
in a great car, you're headed in the right direction.  If you're just
planning the engine for the car that you're getting, then put on the brakes
and shop around.  There have been a few recent postings about V8 swaps for
'81 Cutlass on the list, and you may catch a few of them still.  There are a
lot of options for engines to choose from.  Keep that in mind, you may "see
the light" soon!    :)

     (C'mon, it's an OLDS list, I gotta give you a hard time, right? )

Anyway, welcome "on," Clint, I'm sure you'll find this list as informative
and entertaining as the rest of us have!

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 05:35:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Speedometer Calibration

>I have doing a little research over the past few months and have determined
>how to calibrate (GM) speedometers.  To calibrate them, all you need to know
>is tire size, rear ratio, drive gear (inside trans on shaft), driven gear
>(the one the cable screws into), and the adapter ratio if there is one
>present.  Since I initially began plugging the numbers using Quattro, I
>realized that it would be easier in a program from, so I sat down and wrote a
>windows program (that is almost done...)  So if anybody is interested, drop
>me a line and I will finish it up and let you guys try it out.

>Once again, please give me some feedback on this and let me know if you are
>interested!

     Yeah, sounds like a great plan to me.  What about complete gear swaps
(drive and driven)  Given the tire size and reargear ratios, and no tranny
teeth counts whatsoever, could a matched pair be determined?  (Curious,
mainly, although I have two cars that need this treatment desperately.  One
says 70 at 50, the other says 73 at 60 -- I never got too excited, cuz I
never looked down at it unless I saw bubbles topping the next hill!  Then
the needle quickly touches zero then bounces back and forth a few times, and
the next few seconds give me a reasonable assumption of speed!  That doesn't
happen much anymore, without a day speed limit.  Oh well...)

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 05:35:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Control Arm Bushings

>>>There is always one frozen bolt.
>>
>>This is a metaphor for life, isn't it?  :-)
>
>At the very least, it's the "Murphy's Law" for classic car owners!

     If it's not frozen in place, it will fall out below you, but never
reach the ground!!!  (Unless there is a Deep'n'Messy sump directly below!)

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 05:35:00 -0400
Subject: Re: '86 Salon ---> 442 (was Re: Transmission Question)

>according to the ad.  The same ad also listed 403's as well...
>

     Yum, Yum!

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 05:35:00 -0400
Subject: Re: 1966 Dynamic 88

   Am a new member to the Oldsmobile mailing list and would like to say
>hello to all Oldsmobile-mailing list subscribers out there.

     Welcome aboard!

Just out of curiosity, have you noticed all those Sascatchewan cars with
running boards?  They don't quite work for ground effects!

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 05:53:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Intro...

 but you can still be saved.  :)

     Don't worry, we won't bring books and children to your door to try to
convert you!

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 05:53:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Washer pump

  Hey Charley,
>see that?  I went from washer fluid to tranny fluid in one posting...     :)
>
     Purty Sneaky!!!   :)

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 05:53:00 -0400
Subject: Re: spoiler, misc.

>>      THAT's something I've always though would be just killer cool!
(except >> mine would be the 260.  You'd see the 4 bbl. and tubular exhaust,
but hey, >> everyone runs headers, right?  Who'd be able to argue with the
shroud >> sticker that says 4.3 V8 on it?  Of course, that sputterring rumble
of the >> "potato" cam might give it away, but... :) > >What, sleeve the block
out to a 4.5" bore? Yeah, fake up some "2A" heads out of >a set of big-valve
"4A" heads! "It's just a 260! really!" >--Chris--

     Nah, just keep a good supply of "Stealth Grease" coverring all the
important numbers!  Hell, we don't care about fooling those who know where
to look.  It's those ford guys out there.  (course I guess all I'd have to
do is pull the 455 air cleaner off, and that'd suffice to keep them in the
dark!!!)

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: JK McCall <jkmccall@QBC.Clic.Net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 10:14:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Running boards

buehner wrote:

>      Welcome aboard!
>
> Just out of curiosity, have you noticed all those Sascatchewan cars with
> running boards?  They don't quite work for ground effects!  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
& a 40 channel CB, 8 track doesn't matter what its on or in :>

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 07:15:19 -0400
Subject: Year One Web Site

Made a neat discovery today. Was stumbling around a nice web site
(http://www.eauto.com) and saw links there to this list and Bryce's page.
Also links for all sorts of other outfits that I never knew had web
sites: Delco, GM  collectibles and merchandise, and all sorts of
aftermarket parts suppliers.

Among them was a listing for Year One. I went to it and it is still under
construction, but they were offering F-body catalogs for free. I dropped
them a note at yearone@mindspring.com and asked if the Cutlass catalog
was available for free also. They replied and said sure, we'll send one
out right away! Normally they charge $5.00 per catalog.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: JK McCall <jkmccall@QBC.Clic.Net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 10:26:16 -0400
Subject: [Fwd: Re: ** FOR SALE: 1973 Olds Delta 88 - delta.jpg [1/1]]

Path:
qbc-clic!mixnews2!rcogate.rco.qc.ca!newsjunkie.ans.net!newsfeeds.ans.net!istar
.net!news1.vancouver.istar.net!news.vancouver.istar.net!van-bc!uniserve!news.s
ol.net!news.inc.net!uwm.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohi
o-state.edu!news.physics.uiowa.edu!news.uiowa.edu!usenet From:
john-patterson@uiowa.edu (John Patterson) Newsgroups: rec.autos.marketplace
Subject: Re: ** FOR SALE: 1973 Olds Delta 88 - delta.jpg [1/1] Date: 12 Mar
1996 18:59:01 GMT Organization: University of Iowa Lines: 261 Distribution:
world Message-ID: <4i4hhl$pne@flood.weeg.uiowa.edu> References:
<4hqf58$fgm@flood.weeg.uiowa.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: 129.255.72.33
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Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset=US-ASCII

In article <4hqf58$fgm@flood.weeg.uiowa.edu>, john-patterson@uiowa.edu says...
>
>1973 Oldsmobile Delta 88
>455 Oldsmobile Rocket
>~90,000 miles
>Runs great.
>Body is a little beat up.
>Located in Burlington, IA
>e-mail: john-patterson@uiowa.edu
>
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- --*- Boundary FhypIN3xBe5kvrZF/hrA--

------------------------------

From: david.chontofalsky@mcmail.vanderbilt.edu
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 09:02:17 -0400
Subject: Re: new kid on the block!

joe ferrero
13 rorbach lane
geneseo, ny 14454
(716) 243-3437

ii also have a 1976 buick electra limited, if i'm not mistaken, it has an
olds 455 turbo-hydramatic in it.  i rarely drive it due to the gas
situation.

other than that, hey....   i love the oldsmobiles!
- -joe   =)

*****Joe if the distributer is on the front behind the water pump, the 455 in
your Electra is Buick produced.  Buick NEVER installed an Olds 455 from the
factory into one of their "C" bodied cars.
David.chontofalsky@mcmail.vanderbile.edu
'74 H/O

------------------------------

From: david.chontofalsky@mcmail.vanderbilt.edu
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 09:19:26 -0400
Subject: Re[4]: Intro...

Hey Guys,
Isn't Chevrolet a foreign car?  Theyre made on some little island in the South
Pacific, RIGHT?  I think the Island of Caprice if I recall.
David.chontofalsky@mcmail.vanderbilt.edu    =>


> Date:          Wed, 13 Mar 1996 09:37:19 -0400
> From:          "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
> To:            oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
> Subject:       Re[2]: Intro...
> Reply-to:      oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca

>
>      Nah, we're just giving you a hard time 'cause "real cars don't wear
>      bowties".  Glad to have ya here.  Any Olds is better than none.
>
>      In reality, yeah I know the late model Cutlass's came with Olds,
>      Buick, and Chevy engines.  And, I hate to say it, but from an economic
>      standpoint I agree your best bet if you just want a fast G-body
>      cutlass and have to swap drivetrains anyways is a Chevy SB.  You can
>      pick 'em up down at the local parts store for $699 rebuilt. . .
>
>      But the olds is so nice when you have to change spark plugs, or
>      intakes, or the oil pressure sending unit, or. . .
>
>      Tom L.
>
>
> ______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
> Subject: Re: Intro...
> Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
> Date:    3/13/96 12:37 PM
>
>
> I'm sorry if I offended anyone by wanting to put a GM corp engine into my
> Cutlass.  That wasn't my intention.
>
> Sorry if I ruffleed any feathers,
> Clint
>
>Kill Him, Kill Him.....He said that Chevy word.....Kill Him.
>
>

------------------------------

From: david.chontofalsky@mcmail.vanderbilt.edu
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 09:16:23 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Radio question

Date:          Tue, 12 Mar 1996 20:47:16 -0400
From:          Anectine@aol.com
To:            oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject:       Radio question
Reply-to:      oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca

I have a 69 old Cutlass Supreme with a Am Deluxe radio. I would
like to know if any one can tell me if oldmobile put any other type
of radio in the Supreme style. I believe that Olds had a plain fm
radio along with a AM-FM Stereo version but I do not know if
they put in the Cutlasses. If any one could help me I would appreciate
it                                                          Thanks
                                                                  Chuck
Lobrano

To the best of my knowledge, only the Canadian models distributed in
eastern and central canada had an am-fm optional radio.  None of the
U.S. models to my knowledge had this option.  This is mainly due to
the U.S. not supporting fm radio back in 1969.  Neither did western
Canada.  There was no fm only radio as am was 99% of the market back
then and it would never have sold, that's why the fm-am option.  If
you are considering this option, try the old wrecking yards in
Ontario, or gut the interior and add in a modern internals.   Alex


Alex,
I dont know about Cutlass's But 1963 was the first year for am/fm radios being
an option. 1963 was the first year that tilt wheel was offered also.

I had a '63 98 Custom coupe that had an AM/FM with reverb (factory) and tilt.
And if memory serves me correctly you could get an AM/FM with the
underdash(factory)8 track as early as '68..  The 8 track had OLDSMOBILE
spelled out on the tape door. (I had a '70 W-30 that had this)  I think I saw
a '68 cutlass convertible with this set up also, I dont know if someone added
it , but it looked like a factory job to me....
David.chontofalsky@mcmail.vanderbilt.edu '74 H/O

------------------------------

From: david.chontofalsky@mcmail.vanderbilt.edu
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 09:41:35 -0400
Subject: '83/84 H/O stuff.

If anyone is interested, I have the suplements to the 83/84 H/O's which lists
the differences along with their part numbers.  These were in the glove boxs
of the H/O's.  I was a scavenger on the new car lot in those days and scarfed
the brochures/glovebox inserts for the H/O's when they were new.  along with a
couple of the big 4 fold showroom hand out that states something like "GRAB A
HOLD OF SOME LIGHTNING AND SET IT FREE"   then shows the picture of the
lightning rod shifter setup.  ( also have the lightning rod instructions too)
I
 know, I was young and dumb, But I know what I got was good. a good find  :=>
Anyone interested in the H/O stuff , I can Xerox a copy for anyone interested.

David.chontofalsky@mcmail.vanderbilt.edu
74 H/O



>I am interested in info on where I can get a spoiler (NOS) for a 70 442.
> Also, how is this put on the car?

     Speaking of which, how about a spoiler for the 81-87 442;H/O; Cutlass?
Anyone have lines on those?  Perhaps the hood w/scoop, too?  (I asked Chris
earlier with no luck, but anyone else seen any around?)

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 11:34:50 -0400
Subject: Rebuilt 403, 307 from GM

Check out:
http://www.GMProShop.Com/

They show just a list, but no prices.

David Brown
dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu    (312) 702-9157
"Oldsmobile - powerful roadsters with big V8s"
- ------------------------

In a message dated 96-03-13 18:45:52 EST, you write:

>Along the lines of finding a 442 or H/O (mid 80's) for the 307, I noticed a
>national ad for GM-Goodwrench replacement engines.  The ad listed long
>blocks for both the 307 and 307-roller motors, and for under $2K as I
>recall.  Pricey, yes - but the come with a 5 year/50K mile warranty
>according to the ad.  The same ad also listed 403's as well...

Where did you see this ad? Is there a price list for these replacement
motors? Or would any GM dealer have them available?

Did it mention whether they were remanufactured, and if so, which parts were
used? Are they available in short blocks as well?

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 11:49:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Radio question

>To the best of my knowledge, only the Canadian models distributed in
>eastern and central canada had an am-fm optional radio.  None of the
>U.S. models to my knowledge had this option.  This is mainly due to
>the U.S. not supporting fm radio back in 1969.

Um, no, FM had been around for some time by 1969, although you're right
that upgraded sound systems were pretty rare. I don't know what the
Olds optional radios were at that time, but our family Pontiac wagon's
owner's manual listed one or two FM radios available, with a neat little
flipdial arrangement whereby when you pressed the right end pushbutton
(labeled FM), the whole dial flipped to an FM scale in the window, like
the license plate(s) of James Bond's Aston Martin. There was also some
mention in the manual of how to operate a concert-hall reverb-like
control which electronically delayed the signal to the rear-seat speakers.
Too bad Dad didn't order that one!
- --
Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 12:01:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Speedo drive gears:

>     Here's the theory.  A little dab of black paint on the speedo face to
>cover up the "km/h" and a thread on speed reducer at the tranny, and
>"whammo!" a 140 mph speedo, for Olds.  How simple can it get?

Clever... but if the odometer is driven off the same cable, you're also
gearing that down as well...
- --
Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 12:07:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Radio question

On Thu, 14 Mar 1996 david.chontofalsky@mcmail.vanderbilt.edu wrote:
> To the best of my knowledge, only the Canadian models distributed in
> eastern and central canada had an am-fm optional radio.  None of the
> U.S. models to my knowledge had this option.  This is mainly due to
> the U.S. not supporting fm radio back in 1969.  Neither did western
> Canada.  There was no fm only radio as am was 99% of the market back
> then and it would never have sold, that's why the fm-am option.  If
> you are considering this option, try the old wrecking yards in
> Ontario, or gut the interior and add in a modern internals.   Alex

Uhhh, I don't think so... :)

My '68 has a factory AM/FM. They were offered in Cutlasses starting in (I
think) '65.  And I can assure you that FM radio was around in the USA long
before it ever made it here...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: david.chontofalsky@mcmail.vanderbilt.edu
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 12:58:57 -0400
Subject: Re[4]: Radio question

Oh please lets get this straight!!!
This is not my post below!!!!!!!, My post was above it.  I had a 63  98 with
am/fm(the first year offered in fullsize)
And a 70 with am/fm 8 track
David Chontofalsky


On Thu, 14 Mar 1996 david.chontofalsky@mcmail.vanderbilt.edu wrote:
> To the best of my knowledge, only the Canadian models distributed in
> eastern and central canada had an am-fm optional radio.  None of the
> U.S. models to my knowledge had this option.  This is mainly due to
> the U.S. not supporting fm radio back in 1969.  Neither did western
> Canada.  There was no fm only radio as am was 99% of the market back
> then and it would never have sold, that's why the fm-am option.  If
> you are considering this option, try the old wrecking yards in
> Ontario, or gut the interior and add in a modern internals.   Alex

Uhhh, I don't think so... :)

My '68 has a factory AM/FM. They were offered in Cutlasses starting in (I
think) '65.  And I can assure you that FM radio was around in the USA long
before it ever made it here...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 05:12:18 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Speedo drive gears:

     Assuming the odometer is in Kilometers too, and you swap it in with
     the 140 speedo, then I think it should read correctly.  If you slow
     down the speedo by a fixed amount to get it to show MPH, then the OD
     should also show miles now too, right?

     Tom L.

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: Speedo drive gears: Author:
oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET Date:    3/14/96 8:42 AM


>     Here's the theory.  A little dab of black paint on the speedo face to
>cover up the "km/h" and a thread on speed reducer at the tranny, and
>"whammo!" a 140 mph speedo, for Olds.  How simple can it get?

Clever... but if the odometer is driven off the same cable, you're also
gearing that down as well...
- --
Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473



------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 05:12:15 -0400
Subject: Re[5]: Intro... and misc.

     Uhh... hey guys, what are you doing with that rope?  Should you really
     be stringing it over that tree like that?  Why you making a loop in
     the end?  Umm... guys?!?!?!

     Besides, we need the *hevys for something, all the pesky little
     Mustangs get irritating after a while.  Need something else to beat.

     Boy, 55 new messages this morning.  Busy little, um... Oldsmopeople?

     So as not to waste bandwidth:  Okay, it looks like there's sufficient
     demand and support for a 307 recipie for power.  Now where do we
     start?  Does everyone else mind us clogging up the list with 307
     details, or should we take it to e-mail until it's finished?

     For now, how about everyone with a 307 e-mail me information on any
     power-increasing modifications they've done, along with any statistics
     for the results, even if the stats are just subjective "seat of the
     pants" feel.  Anything you got, I'll take--Any data is good data at
     this point.  When I get enough, I'll organize 'em somehow and spit 'em
     all back out for debate.

     How's that sound?

     Tom Lentz
     tlentz@teknon.com

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re[4]: Intro... Author:
oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET Date:    3/14/96 6:12 AM


Hey Guys,
Isn't Chevrolet a foreign car?  Theyre made on some little island in the South
 Pacific, RIGHT?  I think the Island of Caprice if I recall.
David.chontofalsky@mcmail.vanderbilt.edu    =>

> From:          "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>

>      Buick, and Chevy engines.  And, I hate to say it, but from an economic
>      standpoint I agree your best bet if you just want a fast G-body
>      cutlass and have to swap drivetrains anyways is a Chevy SB.  You can >


>Kill Him, Kill Him.....He said that Chevy word.....Kill Him.
>
>




------------------------------

From: John Schmich <schmich@AZStarNet.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 13:42:12 -0400
Subject: 307 talk

     Did anyone read the latest PHR (April 96)?  There is an article in
there titled "In the eights on ten-inch tires".  Its a pretty good article
on this new, very competitve drag racing league.  In it, there shows a
picture of a late model Cutlass with a cool paint job, (to bad it wasn't in
color) getting prepped for competion.  Within the article it lists the many
rules for competion.  One of the engine rules is that the engine that you
will race, has to be the engine that came in the car.  What I want to know
is what engine will this Larry guy use to race.  Considering its a late
model, there are only two options, the 231 V6, or the 307 V8.  If it had the
231 he could turn it into a GN motor and clearly pull fast times.  If he is
planning on using the 307, I sure want to see a feature article on how he
will get it in the eights.  That would be amazing and show some people up.
Hey Tom L. it could be a start for our "Recipe for Power" campaign!
     I was tempted to write a letter or phone them about this but it is to
bad they are not on the net.  I also wonder if this certain racing
organization will televise some of there meets.  From what I read, it sounds
like fun!
     By some slim chance if anyone knows the answer please let us know.
Thanks Brandon

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 13:46:54 -0400
Subject: 70 442 project, engine

Hey, folks, John Davenport called me, says he has decided to sell his 1970 442
which got crunched in the front end. I understand it was really pretty before
that. Would need a donor car for frame [he has a lead w/disk brakes], front
end, etc. He is in VA. If anyone's interested, let me know & I'll get you his
phone #...

Also, he has a new-in-the-crate 1970 [?] block for sale, and a complete
engine, he says is 1971 probably... Not sure what he's asking, but if you are
near him and interested, give him a shout. - -- Chris  B. Witt         *the*
Rocket Scientist wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 13:50:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Speedo drive gears:

>     Assuming the odometer is in Kilometers too, and you swap it in with
>     the 140 speedo, then I think it should read correctly.  If you slow
>     down the speedo by a fixed amount to get it to show MPH, then the OD
>     should also show miles now too, right?

Hmmm. This is starting to make my brain hurt, but yes, I see what you mean.
In fact, it sounds like the sort of thing GM might routinely do for folks
who bought a car up there, then moved down here. Maybe there's a standard
convertor box to do that...? OTOH, GM might just swap the Canadian speedo
head (including odometer and faceplate) for a U.S.-part equivalent and
solve the problem that way, too. I know Ford does it this way.
- --
Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: John Schmich <schmich@AZStarNet.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 13:57:12 -0400
Subject: Re: 442 spoiler

At 03:54 AM 3/14/96 -0400, you wrote:
>
>     Speaking of which, how about a spoiler for the 81-87 442;H/O; Cutlass?
>Anyone have lines on those?  Perhaps the hood w/scoop, too?  (I asked Chris
>earlier with no luck, but anyone else seen any around?)
>
>      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
>      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
>      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
>      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
>             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)


     It is going to be tuff to find both of those original factory options.
Believe me I've tried when I called every scrap yard from Tucson, AZ to
Toledo, OH.  I finally just went to a accesories shop and bought a small
Fiero wing.  It looks very similar to the 83 & 84 H/O, maybe even better.
The problem is that I had to make special lifting blocks for it to clear the
rear panel lip and to achieve the height I wanted.  I don't suggest you go
out and buy one right know because I did have problems and I'll give you the
details if you reply to me directly.
     To see what it looks like (sort of) take a look at my 86 Salon on
Bryce's page.  It will stick out because it is still primer color.

Brandon

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 14:01:30 -0400
Subject: Another crank

Just when you think you have it all figured out...

The 330/425 forged cranks have this L-shaped notch on the rear flange, and the
usual 350/355 cast cranks have a C-shaped notch. Handy way to identify forged
vs. cast, right? Well, not quite.

Last nite I dismantled the 2 350 junk engines I got at the scrap yard. Mostly
after the heads, as weather had goten in pretty bad and the pistons are now a
permanent part of the block. Got the heads, intakes off OK, then decided to
have the flexplate off the 68 2V engine, too. What's this?! an L-shaped notch?
Huh, a 330 crank? Nope, measured the bolt pattern- it's a late pattern
allright. Gee, a forged late-pattern 350 crank?? Nope, there's the thin part
line characteristic of a casting.... AHA, a big old N on the front
counterweight!
   So, it's a Nodular cast late pattern 350 crank with an L-shaped notch on
the rear face...

Casting number 393654, with N on front counterweight.
Unusual-looking pistons with a dish 2.540" dia. x 0.225" deep, #398661
1111929-4G12 distributor: 1964, or 1974? Broken anyhow, no value but info.
VIN 38M141863
F2 block, cast on day 275, presumably of 1968.

Extracting the crank was quite the chore. After cutting the rods with the
flaming hack saw, and removing the main caps, ot would still not budge. Had to
pry with 2 very large pry bars to get that center bearing to come out. Two of
the rods had a very funny S-shape! bent sideways. I guess that explains why it
spent the last who knows how many years outdoors upside down with no oil pan.

So, there ya have it- 1968 engines, even the lowly 2-barrel, might very well
have a Nodular iron crank, and if so, might very well have an L-shaped notch
on the back. [try to find one that still turns, though! sheesh!]

- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: XDSG80A@prodigy.com (MR JASON P LABAY)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 13:59:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Stuff

Hey now, lets not beat up on the Z/28's. They are great cars. I think
the main difference between the two is that the Z/28 handles better,
while the W-30 is faster......

Jason
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25 (fastest)
1988 Camaro Z/28 (faster)
1974 El Camino SS350 (fast)

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 15:07:51 -0400
Subject: Wiper Motors' Revenge was...Re: More Wiper Fun

	Hey everyone!
Thanks for all the responses on my wiper problems!  I went out to try
them again last night.  I put the key in, turned it on, and the wiper
motor started spinning again!  Hmmm.  I didn't do anything to it since
the last time I tried it and it dindn't work.  Weird.
	So I sat there watching it go when it decided to quit.  AARG!
Futzed with the switch for a minute.  Nothing.  Tapped the motor with a
pair of pliers.  Whirrrrrrrr.  It started spinning again!  Grrr.  So, I
guess it's some mechanical problem with the motor itself.  It was also
making kind of a nasty thumping noise while it turned that didn't sound
good.
	Any ideas this time?  And yes, Charley the grounds are still there ;)
(I actually haven't gotten around to pulling it out of the car yet). And
I think it was Andy who was asking if the junkyard 62 was a Caddy...I
think that was the other guy with washer pump problems.  The car with the
motor I'm looking at is a 62 Dynamic 88, so it might fit but it looks
like it's more offset (as opposed to mine being more centered in the
cowl) if that makes a difference.  Would it be possible to just replace
the motor (and not the whole assembly)?  Or even just the guts?  I don't
know, but I seem to remember reading somewhere that you have to replace
the entire unit if it goes out.  Bucks are a big thing here since I'm
trying to save up enough to buy a hood, fender, etc for the body work
this summer.  Grrrr.  If I had the money, I would just go to Dan down at
Demoris Olds and see if he could find a NOS unit, since it would probibly
cost about what a rebuilt one would.  I don't know.  I guess this sets
the score like this:

		Scott:  1
  Electrical Gremlins:  2


			Know what I mean?
		
			Scott
		1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: "Postmaster" <POSTMSTR@ABSSW.REMNET.AB.COM>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 15:17:13 -0400
Subject: DISTRIBUTION STATUS

WORLD.OLDSMOBI           DISTRIBUTION STATUS INFORMATION        03/14/9
 13:17:00
=======================================================================

DISTRIBUTION ID: WORLD.OLDSMOBI.2470
SUBJECT        : Wiper Motors. Revenge was...Re: More Wiper F
DATE  SENT     : 03/14/96        TIME SENT: 13:17:00
=======================================================================

THE STATUS OF THE ATTEMPTED DELIVERY ON YOUR MAIL IS:

SNADS STATUS  : 000F
EXPLANATION   : SNADS SYSTEM ERROR

=======================================================================

RECIPIENT      : MSMACAB.ATBARKER
LAST NAME      :
FIRST NAME     :
MIDDLE INITIAL :
NATIVE NAME    :
COUNTRY        :
ADMD           :
PRMD           :
ORGANIZATION   :
ORG UNIT 1     :
ORG UNIT 2     :
ORG UNIT 3     :
ORG UNIT 4     :
DDA            :

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #118
********************************
