
oldsmobile-digest         Thursday, 25 April 1996      Volume 01 : Number 157


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: urbanch@magi.com (Chris Urban)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 11:23:31 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Wanted 

Yes I am aware of that. I also have seen have some of the re-pro's and they
are pretty cheesy. I would take a re-pro providing it was a good one.

>69 4-speed console in real nice shape 
>69 dual gate- OEM
>^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>
>You are aware, of course, that the only OEM dual gate for 1969 is the 
>Hurst/Olds unit.  I've seen repro consoles for sale in Hemmings.  I 
>think the mechanism is the same as the Pontiac units, but I'm not sure.  
>There are probably others on the list who could probably provide 
>additional info.
>
>Joe Padavano
>jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>70 W-30
>          
>          
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: urbanch@magi.com (Chris Urban)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 11:23:33 -0300
Subject: Re: Mondello 

Not possible yet!!


>does anyone know how to reach mondello performance through e-mail?  thanks
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: Toronado66@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 11:28:50 -0300
Subject: Re: night owls 

In a message dated 96-04-24 07:51:15 EDT, you write:

>Toronado66@aol.com wrote:
>> 
>> I am a Funeral Director...
>
>Does that mean your more a body man than a mechanic?
>
>The 66 Toro and Mike
>
>

Mike,

Actually, its more analagous to flushing a radiator, but we sometimes refer
to work as "The Body Shop"

I like to think I am a "Transition Technichian" and I'm usually the last guy
to let somebody down....(if you know what I mean).

Gotta go, customers waiting!

Greg  (the Undertaker)

------------------------------

From: Lucas Frick <frick@macrochip.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 11:36:23 -0300
Subject: RE: Spicer Dist.???

The page is at http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner/

- ----------
> 
> ... a blacked-out '85 442 made to handle 1G turns.  Anyways, it had a 
> cool looking ground-effects package ...

Where was this page at?

------------------------------

From: MIKE COCCAGNA <mikec@pop.kis.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 12:43:31 -0300
Subject: RE: Removing clear coat from wheels

Brandon?

The GM Service Manual has a section on removing clear coats from 
wheels that discusses it in great detail (I think 1/2 a page or so).  
If there is interest, I can post it here, or e-mail me off-line 
(mikec@pop.kis.net) and I can either type it in for you, or FAX a 
copy of the page to you from work tomorrow.

Let me know.

Mike
'91 W-40 Quad442

------------------------------

From: Toronado66@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 11:45:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Removing clearcoat?? 

In a message dated 96-04-24 10:23:43 EDT, you write:

>The clearcoat on the chrome rims is starting
>to peel.. I would like to remove it all but I can't find out what to
>use? I have tryed acertone.

Bill,

Try using lacquer thinner, xylol (xylene), etc. Try to find what the
composition of the clearcoat is first, (lacquer, enamel catalytic base, Emron
etc...then go to local Automotive Paint Shop and get the reducer (solvent)
for that particular product. If that doesn't work use a "zip strip", "marine
paint remover" type product... WARNING! Do not get any near the paint finish
or on the rubber tire if you are doing this with unmounted wheels! You will
have a mess. If the chrome is good, it shouldn't hurt it, but I would try all
these in an inconspicuous spot before I soak the entire wheel in it!

Use all these products in a well ventilated area, and do not smoke or create
sparks!
Hold your beath alot too!

BTW...Your are sure they are chrome? Not polished aluminum or some
alloy..otherwise you may ruin the surface of the wheel.

Greg (T-Toro)

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 12:04:55 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Any New Members on the List? 

Welcome to the new members of the Oldsmobile mail list!  Thanks for letting us 
know a little bit about yourself and your car(s).

There is now available (as of 4/12/96), an electronic Frequently Asked Questions
(FAQ) document.  Maybe you have questions about your Oldsmobile or just like to 
read about Oldsmobiles.  Either way, if you would like a copy e-mailed to you, 
drop a request to my address.  It should appear within a business day or two.  
Sometimes your receiving system cannot handle large files (it is 110KB), so let 
me know if you haven't received it.  I'll try to break it up into 20KB chunks.

Enjoy the list!

David Brown
dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu    (312) 702-9157
"Oldsmobile - powerful roadsters with big V8s"

------------------------------

From: GUEISEPPI THE BARBER <JJF96@uno.cc.geneseo.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 13:45:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Sound Advice

joe ferrero
13 rorbach lane
geneseo, ny 14454
(716) 243-3437

if you dont mind losing glove box space....  here's an idea that works.


i wanted to keep the origional look in my CH*VY NOVA (1970).  i put the 
new radio in my glove box...  ran all the wires into the box.  the 
antenna wire was a little short, so i hooked up an inline noise 
filter/signal booster which gave enough room to hook up to the 
systemwithout cutting.  and presto!  there's the sound you want with the 
origional look.  and if you want to lock the radio up, lock the 
glovebox!  (oh, and in my nova glovebox, there was still a lot of room 
to put a few other things in too.)


- --joe    the college student

------------------------------

From: Paul Michael Junion <cutlass@csd.uwm.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 13:00:44 -0300
Subject: WANTED:  1976-77 FRONT BUMPER....

I currently am looking for a front bumper for my 1977 Cutlass....The one 
I have is starting to give way to the rust that Wisconsin is noted for.  
I am looking for one that is rust free and free of any major dents.  My 
car goes to local car shows and the one I have has seen its better days.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.....thanks


Paul




- -- 
University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee
Senior in Civil Engineering with emphasis in Transportation/Municipal
I am from Green Bay, Wisconsin.....graduated from GB Southwest in 1990
I also have another e-mail account....satan@watt.cae.uwm.edu
"FOR THOSE ABOUT TO ROCK, WE SOLUTE YOU"

------------------------------

From: Tony Molinaro <bakereng.com!AMOLINARO@bakereng.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 14:03:25 -0300
Subject: DMR items -Reply 

Is there an address and phone number for Dick Miller Racing

Thanks
Tony Molinaro
amolinaro@bakereng.com
2-69 442's

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 04:13:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Sound Advice

GUEISEPPI THE BARBER wrote:
> 
> if you dont mind losing glove box space....

Yeah, no argument, Joe.  It IS a workable solutionfor some.  BUT... it's 
hard enough to reach the ashtray in my Toro let alone the glovebox.

Anybody got a junker representive of a common Olds radio they want to 
send to me?  (7502 Armand Circle, Tampa, FL  33634)  No promises, I just 
want to look over the case to see what's possible.  I only have my one 
working 66 Wonderbar to go on and I hesitate to tear it apart. (Right, 
Dan?).


The 66 Toro and Mike

- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO
Edison3, Incorporated
Tampa, Florida
(813) 210-8649

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 12:25:55 -0300
Subject: Re: WANTED:  1976-77 FRONT BUMPER.... 

>I currently am looking for a front bumper for my 1977 Cutlass....The one 
>I have is starting to give way to the rust that Wisconsin is noted for.

Yes, folks, that was me who was looking to get rid of my '76 front bumper,
but believe me, Paul, you wouldn't have wanted it. 

Anyway, a followup: It's gone at last. Mother (!) used her local-government
connections to get through to the regional supervisor of Browning-Ferris
Industries, the waste hauler for their town. "Would you take a '76 Olds
front bumper on your normal pickup route?" "Uh, sure, as long as it's not
the whole car."

So, fine, last Sunday, Dad and I haul it out and put it next to the garbage
cans. I go back to car work in the garage.

Seven (7) minutes go by.

I hear a wheezing old engine coming down the alley and stop outside our
garage. A voice calls out, "Escooze me; do you want zees front boompair?"
I roll out from under Mom's car, look deeply thoughtful as if calculating
how low a price I _might_ consider for such a _fine_ part,  :-)  and say,
"No, help yourself!" So he heaves the thing into the back of the most
beat-up Ford pickup I've ever seen, we say our goodbyes, and life goes on.
We're happy, and he probably got three bucks for the thing...

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 13:32:33 -0300
Subject: daily stuffs

> > Hi!  Here in B.C., if you have qualified for "Collector" or "Vintage"
> > plates, you cannot adapt your original sound equipment without risking
> > losing your cheaper plate status.
> You're kidding!  Who's running the Department of Motor Vehicles, those
> C*rvette nuts?  "Sorry, Miss, you can't have those plates, you're missing
> the overspray on the muffler."  Must be hell trying to glue tread back on
> the old tires, not to mention finding that 30 year old battery.
> Michael R. Frederick, CEO

That's easy! try finding the original *electrons* that came in the electrical
system! Whew! Original air for the original tires, etc. :)   -Chris-

> From: urbanch@magi.com (Chris Urban)
> >>Got a 69-70 front bumper, 71-2 rear bumper, Toro oil pan, and a bucket full
>  69 - 70 front bumpers are different.

Thanks for the input. The bumper has boneyard paint on the backside that says
"70" so we'll assume that's what it is. Now, where the heck did I get the idea
that the 69 & 70 were same? -Chris-

> >  I have written complete instructions on how to
> > replace the factory Olds (78-87) Cutlass dummy light/speedo with factory
> > gauges.
> I am interested. Have an 83 cutlass supreme.

Me Too! For General Purposes. -Chris_

> I've asked before, but not in a while.  Does anyone have any trim parts for
> '49-50 Olds?  In particular, I am looking for front rocker trim for '49.
> "Futuramic".

That reminds me, a guy called looking for a taillite for a 58, I think. Yep, a
58 Olds 88, 2-door.
  Tom Wasson
  210-545-3889
  San Antonio, TX
Has lens, needs rest of t'lit ass'y. I wash my hands of the matter; if you have
one or can direct him to one, please contact him directly. Thanks. -Chris-

>    Just built my 455ci. for my 4-4-2 and decided that for the $ I've
> already put into the pit that I would treat it to full synthetic.
> I've researched it and it sounds like it's worth a go.  Let you know
> how it turns out.
> Glenn '69 4-4-2

I have heard that you should not use synthetic until AFTER the break-in period.
I intend to use dino squeezin's on the race 425 until after a while, like when
the rings seem seated and the oil needs changing. -Chris-

- --snips 100 lines of unedited overkill inclusion text, grumbles about how the
daily digest is still 50% such...--

> and this guy had a beautiful '70 4-4-2 convertible so I thought for
> $10,500. I watched it drive back to it's spot with the prospective
> buyer in the front passenger seat wetting his pants over it and I
> followed this black over white back to it's spot and took a look at
> it. The upper half was nice and as I looked under it I could hear
> this guy start dickering over price when I noticed front drum brakes.
> I popped up to look at the vin. # and seen that it was a Cutlass
> dressed nicely, I might add, with 4-4-2 markings.

Oh, that's cold-blooded! Asking 2-3 times what it's worth from an unsuspecting
buyer, who'll then go around telling folks it's a "real 442!" Sheesh, if indeed
it was even fitted with a 455, that'd be the kind of seller that'd install a
J-head 8.0: compression smogger motor, add an AL intake and {oooooh!} Holley
Carb to impress the impressable... Oy! -Chris-

> shorter my brother found the guy who was all over this car at a food
> stand and clued him in to what this car really was. Whether he ended
> Glenn

Yay for you two! Score one for the good guys...

- --Carlisle--
> 1967/68 98 conv. 12,500- not restored but beautiful and seemed to be
> 30' long

Heh, that reminds me, on the way to the Detroit raceway to pick up the race car
Sunday, went past a oh, 72 98 in the mud up to its ears. Had left fliers on it
before, but no response. This time there's folks home, stop to inquire & leave
a flier... Crusty old guy owns it... He says I can have it, for **$400**! I
almost laughed right in his face. For a '72, that "runs good, and the glass is
good", yeah, WHEN did it last 'run good'? And who the hell is buying glass for
a 4-door? Ahem... Ga heads, most likely. Kinda useless, certainly not something
I'd pay $400 for. I told  him to keep me in mind when he gets ready to make it
go away... Shoot, if he does find somebody to give him $400 for it, I'd LOVE to
meet that person, as I have half a dozen similar vehicles I could let go for
cheap, like $350 each! -Chris-

> When you remove material from the head surface you effectivly move the vavles
closer to the pistons and you also will preload the lifter with the pushrod that
 much more.

True enough....

> With the non-adjustable rocker arms

That's "self-adjusting" valvetrain, please!

> you have no way of compensating for this difference.

Nor do you need to, as long as the lifter plunger is somewhere within its
designed range of use! Again, you have 200 thou of range of use in the lifter,
the rockers & pedestals, unless NEW, have some wear, the gaskets sold nowadays
are thicker, and all this puts the plunger farther OUT of the lifter...

> The only way to get away from this problem is to install roller rockers or
> adjustable pushrod (not a good idea) Dave Smith or Joe Mondello sells
> excellent
>sets at approx. $400.00 for everything needed. I've used these with great
>results.
> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ          email:  jblair@nhr.com

I'll bet! For $400, I'd expect nothing less than great results. However, for
the person with a limited engine budget, all that is totally unnecessary.
Simply watch the lifter preload as you tighten down each rocker [that cyl. at
TDC compression!]. Just after the pushrod becomes tight, count turns of the
pedestal bolt to tight. Min 1/4 turn, max of about 1.5 turns, Let's examine the
math: 18 threads per inch, 1.6 times as much lifter plunger movement as
pedestal movement [by a mathematical coincidence, same # as the rocker
ratio!]... And 0.200 max max max lifter plunger depression ====>
  0.0556" pedestal motion per turn of the pedestal bolt
  *1.6 = 0.089" lifter plunger motion per turn of PB
  2.25 turns of the Rocker Pedestal bolt would use up all 0.200" of lifter
plunger travel. THEN you got problems.
  Less than 1/4 turn: replace worn rockers/ pedestals, and/or go with
adjustable rockers or p'rods...
  More that 2 turns: go adjustable, or add shims under the pedestals. Summit
sells a shim kit for like $8 or so. Now THAT fits 'most ANY engine budget!
- --Chris--

> Convertible
> cutlass bought from a surfer in Ca. it had not top or carpet but only cost
> me $1800 and I needed a toy.

Ah, what's a surfer need with a top or carpet anyhow? I had a surfer friend in
Davis, had a nice '64-1/2 fastback Mustang, needed a new ring & pinion set, he
had built the engine himself, one day decided to sell it and finance a surf
trip to Mexico. Hope he enjoyed the trip.... Now, he's working construction,
barely making enough to afford a life, let alone a nice car like that. He raced
my 68 442 one day, trounced me soundly, as the Olds was not running too well,
and doing it thru 3.08's at that. :( never got the chance to re-match. -Chris-

> i was wondering if anyone knows of a intake that would fit an olds 455
> and also support dual quads.  thanks
> dave rogers

Yep, they're around. Tried Summit, I presume? There was one here at Johnson's
Speed shop last year, with carbs, for $300. well used of course -Chris-

>           0.030).  The linkage was set up so that the back carb
>           primaries opened first, followed by the front carb
>           primaries, then the back secondaries, then the front.  I had
>           it set up so that all throttle bores reached WOT
>           simultanetously.

Since they started at different times, that must have been quite a feat of
engineering! Mind you, I am not saying it can't be done, on the contrary, I am
marvelling at the ingenuity required to pull off such a stunt. -Chris-

> I saw the article on somebody's home page here (Ulrich Buehner??) from Car
> Craft in '87.  It had an article on a blacked-out '85 442 made to handle
> 1G turns.  Anyways, it had a cool looking ground-effects package that included
> the front, rear, and side air dams; the hood scoop; and the fender flares.

Sounds like the car in the Olds Museum... Now it the Bryceman can just find
time to include the latest batch of photos in the web site... -Chris-

> the passenger side, the front of the engine is closer to the drivers side,
> causing interference.  I am going to grind a slot in the crossmember, or drill
> a hole to allow the transmission to sit correctly, centered.  This should give
> me the correct clearance.  In case anyone wondered.
> Tony

But of course we were wondering! -Chris-

> inch of adjustment.  Once upon a time I (foolishly) had the machine shop cut
> .120 from a set of Olds BB heads.  I blew head gaskets (every run) but had no
> valve train problems.  If you are running high RPMs with weak springs _maybe_
> you'll lose a few RPM but Olds' are high RPM motors.

Hmmm, lessee, .005" per cc.... 20 cc per 100 thou... 24cc off let's assume a
C head on a 455... 10.25:1 stock CR pistons... that calc's to 6.15 ci CVolume,
or 100.8cc, now take off 24cc... for 4.68 ci CV.... CRatio = 13.14! -Chris-

> On another note: someone here was installing the oiling restrictors Mondello
> makes in his/her 307.  Why?  The oiling problems came about primarily in the
> long stroke 400 and 455 starting in '68.  I would not expect the 307 to share
> this problem but I could be wrong.

'twas a 403, I thought?

> Of course Mondell, Miller, etc. will sell you their products if you need then
> or not, who wouldn't.  But do you need them?  I don't know but tend to doubt
> it.
> Bob Handren

Good point, Bob...


Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 06:11:32 -0300
Subject: Re: Removing clearcoat?? 

     I can't help you, but my '84's wheels have the same problem.  If you 
     find a fix, please let me know!  However you do it, I think removing 
     the clearcoat without destroying the red trim is out of the question.  
     So you'll have to find some way to replace that too.
     
     I can think of lots of ways to remove the clearcoat, but none that I'm 
     absolutely, positively sure won't harm the chrome underneath.  Perhaps 
     carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner?  Maybe brake fluid???
     
     Or you could just get them acid-dipped, re-chromed, and 
     re-clearcoated.  I'd love to be able to afford that!
     
     I still have a set of 15x7 rally wheels, with all the chrome bits, 
     center caps, and new trim rings.  The painted type, but you could have 
     them chromed to make late-model H/O or 442 wheels.  Make an offer or 
     trade for ???
     
     Tom L.

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Removing clearcoat??
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    4/24/96 7:41 AM


I have an 84' Hurst/Olds, The clearcoat on the chrome rims is starting 
to peel.. I would like to remove it all but I can't find out what to 
use? I have tryed acertone.. I have spent countless hours on one wheel 
and It still isn't done.. Does anyone have any suggestions?
thank you
- -Bill Ansell
wansell@lynx.dac.neu.edu
     
     

------------------------------

From: GUEISEPPI THE BARBER <JJF96@uno.cc.geneseo.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 14:33:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Removing clear coat from wheels

joe ferrero
13 rorbach lane
geneseo, ny 14454
(716) 243-3437

i'm interested.   go ahead and post it!  (clearcoat removal)


- --joe    the college student

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 15:42:40 -0300
Subject: Re: daily stuffs 

          
>           primaries, then the back secondaries, then the front.  I had 
>           it set up so that all throttle bores reached WOT
>           simultanetously.
          
Since they started at different times, that must have been quite a feat of 
engineering! Mind you, I am not saying it can't be done, on the contrary, I am 
marvelling at the ingenuity required to pull off such a stunt. -Chris-
          
          
          Thanks, but modesty prevents me from taking all the credit.  
          Actually, the linkage is an aftermarket unit with several 
          neat features.  First, the fitting on the fromt carb 
          acutally has an adjustable slider, so that the back carb 
          throttle lever must travel a pre-set amount before the 
          linkage starts to pick up the front throttle lever (this is 
          similar to how the primary-to-secondary linkage works on a 
          Q-Jet).  Now, if both throttle levers have the same length, 
          you would be right, they would not reach WOT simultaneously. 
          Fortunately, the AFBs have two different linkage attach 
          holes in the throttle lever - one at the end and one about 
          half way up.  Thus by using the end hole on the back carb 
          and the middle hole on the front carb, and adjusting the 
          slider pickup point so that the two reach WOT together, it 
          works as advertised.  Obviously it's not possible to 
          optimize the opening points with this arrangement, but 
          fortunately the AFB uses a secondary air valve similar to 
          the Q-Jet.  As I said, the car worked amazingly well on the 
          street.
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Buddha <buddha@itw.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 15:22:18 -0300
Subject: Re: Removing clearcoat?? 

At 11.17 04,24,96 -0300, you wrote:
>I have an 84' Hurst/Olds, The clearcoat on the chrome rims is starting
>to peel.. I would like to remove it all but I can't find out what to
>use? I have tryed acertone.. I have spent countless hours on one wheel
>and It still isn't done.. Does anyone have any suggestions?
>thank you
>-Bill Ansell
>wansell@lynx.dac.neu.edu
>
>
>

thats tough...since they are chrome rims...try laquer thinner, or mineral
spirits...i would say use spray-on iven cleaner, but that WILL take off some
of the chrome as well...
               zack
      ___
     /. .\
    _\_*_/_                     -<Buddha>-
   / /   \ \                   Buddha@itw.com
   \_\___/_/            HTTP://www2.itw.com/~buddha/
  /___\_/___\ "That which does not kill us makes us stronger"
 *************

------------------------------

From: David Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 15:35:48 -0300
Subject: Posi

At 02:03 AM 4/24/96 -0300, you wrote:

>I'm swapping out the 2.56 posi rear from my early-production 1970 SX, so it
>is looking for a good home; I'd swap you even for the 12-bolt... 

Hey, if you guys don't work out a swap or something, I'd be interested in
buying that 2.56 posi from you...

- --
Dave Paulison             Melbourne, FL          69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: David Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 16:12:24 -0300
Subject: Losing Coolant

OK, here's the big problem...

A couple weeks ago I pulled the intake off my '69 350.  Some of you may have
read the post about that.  Well, the day it went back together, I was not
able to set the timing.  I set it where I thought it was close, and drove it
for a day like that.  Well, the timing was way off (about 24 btdc, instead
of 8 btdc), and the engine got mucho hot, and it lost some coolant.  I did
set the timing correctly the next day, but ever since then the radiator gets
emptied every day or two.  Now, the coolant crossover on the front of the
intake seems like it may be leaking in front of cylinder #2 (part of the
head between #2 intake and the crossover looks wet).  Could it be leaking
that much water into #2, and still run without a miss?  I've checked all my
hoses and the water pump, the freeze plugs are new, and I don't see and
water in the oil, or oil in the water, etc, etc. (haven't pulled the plugs,
though...).  The engine runs fine (no misses, not smoking).  I drive the car
about 12-15 miles a day, to work and back home.  
Where can all that water be going?  I don't see any visible leaks.

Any ideas?

Thanks again!
- --
Dave Paulison             Melbourne, FL          69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 14:27:16 -0300
Subject: Plastic Cleaner, Big Heads, Junkyard, etc.(Kinda Long)

	Hey everyone!
I posted about some of this stuff a couple days ago, and since I don't 
remember ever getting it back, I have a feeling it never actually went 
out.  (my server went through a hardware upgrade, and it's still having 
some growing pains...)  
	
	At any rate, what I wrote about before was a trip to the junkyard, a 
local car show last Sunday, and some other misc.  About the junkyard-- I 
found a couple cars with 7As, a pair of C heads, a pair of Es, and a 
single G head that was sitting in the truk of a 98 (weird!)  The G was 
completly bare (no valves/springs, etc) and needed bead blasting, but 
looked ok.  If anybody is interested in any of thoes, let me know (I 
could probibly get that G head for pretty cheap).  Also saw one of thoes 
weird "Dual Jets" Chris was talking about (Chris, right?).  Looks kinda 
like a Q-Jet wannabe, but only has two barrels.  
	
	I was also poking through some of the trunks of thoes things 
(having visions of Chris' tri-carb setup he found in a trunk).  Didn't 
find 
anything *that* cool (I wish!), but I did find an MSD unit (5200?) in the 
trunk of a Cutlass.  It looked like it was in nice shape, but who knows.  
Any idea how to hook the thing up?  I've never fooled with these things 
before so I really don't have any idea.  
	
	Oh, and for anybody looking for an Olds radio to gut, (for audio 
upgrade experiments) there 
were a bazillion AM units still in thoes cars.  There was only a couple 
Wonderbars still there, but mostly generic "Talk Show Specials".  Again, 
given the current market for old AM radios, I could probibly get one for 
cheap.  
	One thing I have noticed about this junkyard though, is that when 
you take your stuff back to the office to pay for it, there are two types 
of guys you find there.  The "cheap" guy, and the "expensive" guy.  When 
you ask how much they want for the thing you put on the counter, both 
seem to pull a price out of thin air (or out of somewhere else more 
likely).  
	The cheap guy once sold me a fuel pump eccentric and a chrome oil cap  
for a buck (it was like "How much for this thing?  Hmmm, uh...how about a 
buck.  How much for this oil cap?  Hmmm.  How about fifty cents 
each...so, a buck total")  The expensive guy has made me pay like $7 for 
that little plastic and metal thing the positive battery cable attaches 
to (the thing that goes to the starter/wire harness).  Nice.  I probibly 
could have bought a new one for that.  I usually just try to avoid the 
expensive guy whenever possible.
	Anybody else have junkyards like this around?

	One final thing.  I finally found something that will remove the 
scratches from clear plastic (like on instrument clusters).  It's 
Meguiars' Clear Plastic Cleaner, and Clear Plastic Polish.  Works like 
magic!!  I bought some a couple days ago after reading about it my "How 
to Restore Your Muscle Car" book, to remove the little "swirlie" 
scratches left on my guages from people trying to clean them.  This stuff 
removed all the little scratches, and that dull sort of haze that comes 
from plastic gets from being cleaned.  For bigger scratches, they 
recomend 
a kit they sell, but I have yet to see one.  After trying it though, I 
found all sorts of things to use it on.  "Hmmm.  That radio face looks 
dull.." and "Hmmm...I bet I could really make thoes tail lights shine!!"  
It's kind of addictive.  
	
	At any rate, I highly recommend it.  I also recomend Meguiars' other 
car products, like their wax, Fine Cut Cleaner, and Glaze.  I've had 
great success with all of them.  Speaking of wax, what do you guys use?
	
			Scott
		1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 16:13:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Plastic Cleaner, Big Heads, Junkyard, etc.(Kinda Long) 

>Speaking of wax, what do you guys use?

I used to use Rain Dance paste wax until it abruptly disappeared from
the shelves at Trak Auto. Discontinued, maybe? I thought so at first,
until the same Trak nitwits decided to discontinue AC-Delco motor oil
last month. (Can't complain _too_ much, though; I got the closeout
stuff at $12/case plus an additional $3/case mail-in rebate, then I'll
buy it at K mart in future...) Maybe they weren't selling enough of it
but it's still out there somewhere. Anyway...

I now use Meguiars with good results. They also had a slick free mail
offer whereby you send them basic info on your car (age, color, whether
it's kept under cover or not, etc.) and they send back a personalized,
very snazzy sheet of what looks like a PostScript printout, analyzing
what products of theirs they think would be best for your car, and a
coupon or two for the stuff. Goes on real well and leaves a long-lasting
shine; doesn't require huge effort to polish off.

Tried some goop in an orange can once called "NuFinish 2000" or some
such crap. Total disaster. I'd never seen such a lot of swirl marks
on a previously-decent finish. Took a lot of buffing out and rewaxing
with Rain Dance to get back to a nice shine again. No, it was not
oxidized to begin with, but God knows what NuFinish did to it...

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Dink" <heinle@jake.udayton.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 18:33:41 -0300
Subject: Re:waxes

> 	At any rate, I highly recommend it.  I also recomend Meguiars' other 
> car products, like their wax, Fine Cut Cleaner, and Glaze.  I've had 
> great success with all of them.  Speaking of wax, what do you guys use?
> 			Scott

My paint is to far gone to bother waxing, but Zymol is suppoe to be 
awesome for dark colored cars.  By the way that "Touchless car care" 
stuff is a bunch of crap.  All it did was puts streaks on my paint 
that looks like a drunk painted it, also it leaves runs on the side 
panels.  It actually made the paint worse than it already was.  

I have used Mothers 3 step process, with good luck.  It contains  
Step 1. Wax Remover
Step 2. Glaze, Sealer
Step 3. Carnuba wax.

If you want a nifty paint remover, try spilling some nitromethane 
from a R/C gas powered car on your hood, down to the metal in just 
a few minutes. (differnet story for a different time)

Dink

!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~
Dink           Dayton, Ohio
80 Olds Delta 88 Royale  MSD, K&N, Dynomax, etc..
http://homepages.udayton.edu/students/heinle/
- --

------------------------------

From: David Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 17:43:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Losing Coolant

At 04:12 PM 4/21/96 -0300, you wrote:
>OK, here's the big problem...
>
>A couple weeks ago I pulled the intake off my '69 350.  Some of you may have
>read the post about that.  Well, the day it went back together, I was not
>able to set the timing.  I set it where I thought it was close, and drove it
>for a day like that.  Well, the timing was way off (about 24 btdc, instead
>of 8 btdc), and the engine got mucho hot, and it lost some coolant.  I did
>set the timing correctly the next day, but ever since then the radiator gets
>emptied every day or two. 

Update:

Just went out and topped off the radiator, topped off the oil (was 1/2 quart
low), and drove the car for a few miles, to heat it up.  Got home, parked
it, and checked for leaks.  None.  System holds pressure, too, just as well
as it always did.  Pulled #2 plug, and a couple others to compare (don't
know if water in a cylinder would show on plugs, anyway...), and they all
looked the same.  No discoloration, no black junk, just nice, clean plugs.
There is a wierd, kind of gurgling/bubbling noise, most audible around the
radiator cap.  Could the water all be leaking out the cap?  What about if
the thermostat is bad?  I checked it when I had the intake off, and it was
OK then, but with the overheating and stuff, I don't know what that can do
to it.  Doesn't seem to flow from the top hose with the engine cold, but
it's kind of hard to tell with side tanks.

That's all for now...
- --
Dave Paulison             Melbourne, FL          69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: David Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 17:51:26 -0300
Subject: Re:waxes

Zymol is mucho expensive, though.  I usually use Blue Coral AutoFom, seems
to work fine, and it is really easy to put on and remove.  It works better
on metallics than on regular colors, and isn't good for restoring a finish;
just good for maintaining an already nice finish.  It as a little expensive
(I think about $10 a bottle), but not as expensive as Zymol.




At 06:33 PM 4/24/96 -0300, you wrote:

>My paint is to far gone to bother waxing, but Zymol is suppoe to be 
>awesome for dark colored cars.  

>Dink
>
- --
Dave Paulison             Melbourne, FL          69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 17:58:17 -0300
Subject: Dual Quad Fuel Distribution... was Re: daily stuffs

> >           primaries, then the back secondaries, then the front.  I had 
> >           it set up so that all throttle bores reached WOT
> >           simultanetously.
>           
> Since they started at different times, that must have been quite a feat of 
> engineering! Mind you, I am not saying it can't be done, on the contrary, I am 
> marvelling at the ingenuity required to pull off such a stunt. -Chris-
>           
>           
	Did you ever have any fuel distribution problems?  Ie. the 
cylinders farthest from the two barrels that open first running lean?  
I've heard that can be a problem, like on thoes old stright 8s with a 
1bbl and thoes octopus intake manifolds--the cylinders on the ends just 
dont get the gas they need (thoes 8s are a pretty extreme example, 
though), but that it can be a problem since the primaries are offset, not 
centered like a single 2bbl.
	  I've never played with multi carb setups, so I can't really 
call on experience here, but I have heard that they run smoother when 
setup to have the primaries on both carbs open simultaniously.  That 
setup is definetly cool though!!

	And of course, this would never be a problem if you used a heavy foot!

		Scott
	1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 17:00:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Losing Coolant 

>There is a weird, kind of gurgling/bubbling noise, most audible around the
>radiator cap.  Could the water all be leaking out the cap?

Sure. Do you have a surge tank or an overflow hose down to the ground?
Have you pressure-tested the radiator cap? (Not just the system, the cap.)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: David Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 18:15:43 -0300
Subject: Mysterious paper

I found an interesting piece of paper in my Cutlass this week.  It's a card 
8 1/2" x 4" with those little holes in the sides for continuous feeding
through a printer.  It has four rows of boxes going across, each row has a
small title box, with a blank box below it, like this:
                  __________
                 |  STYLE   |
                 |__________|
                 |  34239   |
                 |__________| 

The boxes are 5/8" high and have titles like "STYLE", "SEQ", "MO", "DAY", etc. 
Is this some kind of build sheet or something?  Those five numbers in the
"STYLE" box match the first five numbers of my VIN#.  The SEQ# is 322, MO is
01, DAY is 29.  Is that the date my car was made?  There are some other numbers
in the other boxes, also.  Just curious...
   
- --
Dave Paulison             Melbourne, FL          69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: David Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 18:20:21 -0300
Subject: Re: Losing Coolant

At 05:00 PM 4/24/96 -0300, you wrote:

>Sure. Do you have a surge tank or an overflow hose down to the ground?
>Have you pressure-tested the radiator cap? (Not just the system, the cap.)
>
>Andrew C. Green 

I just have a hose going to the ground...been meaning to put in an
aftermarket coolant recovery.  BTW, are there any from other year
Oldsmobiles that will fit well and look decent (maybe from a newer model)?
I haven't tested the cap at all, probably just as well to replace it;
they're cheap.

Thanks..
          
- --
Dave Paulison             Melbourne, FL          69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 19:56:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Dual Quad Fuel Distribution 

          
          
          
 And of course, this would never be a problem if you used a heavy foot!
                ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
          
          Scott, youu broke the code!  Actually, I'd have to say that 
          the majority of the driving was either on the primaries only 
          or close to WOT.  I can't say that I saw any gross fuel 
          distribution problems, but I also can't say that I looked at 
          it very closely, either.  I should clarify that while this 
          car was street driven, it was by no means a daily driver.  I 
          also suspect that the two-plane manifold helped keep runner 
          velocity up, which helped distribution      
 
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 21:55:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Junkyard, etc.

Scott R Clark wrote:
> 
>  Oh, and for anybody looking for an Olds radio to gut...

Well, thanks.  But unless their giving them away, it's probably 
cheaper to go scrounging locally.  Shipping and all...

The 66 Toro and Mike

 
- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO
Edison3, Incorporated
Tampa, Florida
(813) 210-8649

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 11:41:36 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Losing Coolant 

     If the radiator cap is bad and the relief spring is opening before 
     it's supposed to, then it could be letting coolant out.  You should 
     then see it in your overflow bottle or draining onto the ground 
     though.  Got another car you can swap caps with temporarily?  I've 
     also seen leaky overfill bottles or leaky overfill-to-radiator hoses 
     do this.  When the engine heats up or cools down and tries to put 
     excess coolant into or take coolant from the overfill bottle it will 
     spill out, of course this never happens while you're looking under the 
     hood.
     
     Also might want to check the weep hole on the bottom of the water 
     pump.  If the pump is bad, it leaks through there to let you know.  
     It's hard to see since it's underneath, and the bad one's I've seen 
     only leaked when the engine was running, not at idle.
     
     Heater core okay?  Heater control valve on the intake is okay?


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Losing Coolant
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    4/24/96 2:11 PM


     Just went out and topped off the radiator, topped off the oil (was 1/2 
     quart low), and drove the car for a few miles, to heat it up.  Got 
     home, parked it, and checked for leaks.  None.  System holds pressure, 
     too, just as well as it always did.  Pulled #2 plug, and a couple 
     others to compare (don't know if water in a cylinder would show on 
     plugs, anyway...), and they all looked the same. 
     

------------------------------

From: jblair@nhr.com (John T. Blair)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 19:10:32 -0300
Subject: Re: 455 2-bbl stock cam specs? 

>Would anyone have information on the lift and duration of a cam as installed
>in a 1970 Cutlass L-33 320hp 455 2-bbl motor? If it is more than the stock
>cam in a '72 low-compression 350 2-bbl, I might add it to my "spare parts"
>motor (yes, I kept all the original lifters in order...)
>
>Yes it has more lift and duration than the '72 350 cam. It specs out at aprox. .465 lift and 278-282 degrees of duration. It is not worth a whole lot as performance goes. If you want an excellent cam for your 350 cu. in. 8.5:1 smog motor look for a cam with about 278 int. dur./ 286 exh. dur. and lift at .486 int./ .502 exh. This dual pattern cam will wake that 350 up like you added 40 cu. in. to it. Lots of cam manf. offer a cam for the OLDS engines with roughly these specs.

Jim Chermack (804)474-0869
Virginia Beach, VA  
John T. Blair  WA4OHZ          email:  jblair@nhr.com
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (804) 495-8229

48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget  65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
     75 Bricklin SV1   77 Spitfire

------------------------------

From: jblair@nhr.com (John T. Blair)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 19:10:46 -0300
Subject: Internet List 

Just want to pose a question to all of you. Other than JOURNEY WITH OLDS have there been any of you that just surfed the NET and found out about this group? We did and could not find anything when searching on the NET. We had to access this through the info we had from JWO.
John T. Blair  WA4OHZ          email:  jblair@nhr.com
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (804) 495-8229

48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget  65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
     75 Bricklin SV1   77 Spitfire

------------------------------

From: David Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 19:09:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Losing Coolant

At 11:41 AM 4/24/96 -0300, you wrote:
>

>     Also might want to check the weep hole on the bottom of the water 
>     pump.              ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Have to do that...don't see any drips or water trails, though.


>     Heater core okay?  Heater control valve on the intake is okay?


Heater core is bypassed...it leaks.  Valve is OK...I replaced it just before
the heater core started leaking last year.  


- --
Dave Paulison             Melbourne, FL          69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 18:18:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Internet List 

>Just want to pose a question to all of you. Other than JOURNEY WITH OLDS
>have there been any of you that just surfed the NET and found out about 
>this group? We did and could not find anything when searching on the NET.

Well, the Eauto web page has us listed, for what that's worth. I guess
they try to be fairly comprehensive but they sure got off on the wrong
foot, with a bogus testimonial posted here, sloppy writing and defective
HTML on their web page that took ages to correct. As it is they still are
listing Bryce's web page under both its new and old URLs for no apparent
reason...

http:/www.eauto.com if you want to take a look...

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: David Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 19:16:56 -0300
Subject: Re: Internet List

At 07:10 PM 4/24/96 -0300, you wrote:

>Just want to pose a question to all of you. Other than JOURNEY WITH OLDS
have >there been any of you that just surfed the NET and found out about
this group? >We did and could not find anything when searching on the NET.
We had to access >this through the info we had from JWO.
>John T. Blair  WA4OHZ          email:  jblair@nhr.com


Yeah, I found this group searching for "OLDSMOBILE".  Search came up with
Bryceman's Olds Page, and I found out about it there.  BTW, what is "JOURNEY
WITH OLDS"?

- --
Dave Paulison             Melbourne, FL          69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: jblair@nhr.com (John T. Blair)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 19:23:53 -0300
Subject: Re: Mysterious paper 

>I found an interesting piece of paper in my Cutlass this week.  It's a card 
>8 1/2" x 4" with those little holes in the sides for continuous feeding
>through a printer.  It has four rows of boxes going across, each row has a
>small title box, with a blank box below it, like this:
>                  __________
>                 |  STYLE   |
>                 |__________|
>                 |  34239   |
>                 |__________| 
>
>The boxes are 5/8" high and have titles like "STYLE", "SEQ", "MO", "DAY", etc. 
>Is this some kind of build sheet or something?  Those five numbers in the
>"STYLE" box match the first five numbers of my VIN#.  The SEQ# is 322, MO is
>01, DAY is 29.  Is that the date my car was made?  There are some other numbers
>in the other boxes, also.  Just curious...

Dave, 

That piece of paper you found is a computer print-out of certain options and dates. If you read JWO the March or April issue addressed these print-outs. I've had 2-3 cars I've found these in. Some had build sheets also and some didn't. You must contact one of the OLDS club advisors for your type of car and he may be able to help youdecode this paper. Hope this helps you some.

Jim Chermack



John T. Blair  WA4OHZ          email:  jblair@nhr.com
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (804) 495-8229

48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget  65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
     75 Bricklin SV1   77 Spitfire

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 14:11:16 -0300
Subject: Car Show, Junk Yard -n- stuff. 

	Hey everyone!

	I made it to the 10th annual Garden City Rod -n- Custom (local car club) 
car show Sunday.  It was the kind of show where anyone could enter a car 
for a fee no matter what it was or how it looked.  There were some pretty 
nice machines to be sure, but the bondo/primer Chevelle was what really 
got my blood pumping.  ;)

	Seriously, though there were a lot of *really* nice cars there along 
with a few assorted half-completed projects.  
	Not too many Olds, though. :(  There was a 68 Toro in pretty nice shape.  
It was definetly all original, complete with leaking valve cover gaskets.  
Body and interior were sharp though (sort of a bronze color with black 
vinyl top).  There was an absolutly beautiful red '63 Starfire 
convertable.  Again, I think it was all original (had to ask to get a 
look at the 394 living under the hood...needed a good degreasing 
too).  There was only 1 442...a 66.  It was in pretty nice shape, 
black with a white interior.  There was also a '60 Poncho that cought 
my attention.  It was a 2 door hardtop with a dual quad 421!  Very 
nice!  

	It seems like the majority of cars there were Mustangs (lots of 
Shelbys) some trucks lifted to the point of needing a ladder to get in, 
some Camaros and...a whole bunch on lowriders owned by the high school 
crowd.  Some were just plain-jane Hondas with thoes goofy reverse rims 
on 50 series Goodriches, and that chrome tape over the fender wells.  
	Sure buddy, that belongs in a car show.  On the bright side, they 
made that bondo Chevelle look pretty good!  |)

	All in all, though it was fun.  
	
	Also, I finally made it out to my favorite junkyard this weekend.  
I looked under some hoods out of curiosity and made a couple of 
finds.  There were a couple motors with 7As still on them, and a 
455 with Cs on it, and one with a pair of Es.  Also found a 
single G head in the trunk of a 98 (weird).  The thing was 
completly striped (no valves, springs, etc).  It needed bead 
blasting, but looked ok.  Also, LOTS of J head 455s :)
	
	Should I rush back there and pick any of thoes up?  I could probibly 
get that G head for cheap if anybodys looking.

	I also found the single first generation Toro in the place.  (it was 
hidden in a bunch of old army-style jeeps of all places).  It was a 66 or 
67.  Missing the engine, but trans was still there.  It has good metal, 
taillights, etc.  The interior has a few bits still there.  Clock too!

	Noticed something else while I was poking around out there.  It 
seemed like there were a *lot* more Buicks than either Olds or 
Pontiac.  Not really sure why, it just seemed that way.  Of course, 
there were also a bazillion Chubbys there too.

	One othe thing of interest I found (in the trunk of a Cutlass!) was 
an MSD 5200 (I think).  Anyone know how to hook one of these things 
up (even just to see if it works)?  It's got a black ground-looking 
wire, and a group of wires (white, pink,etc).  It looked like it 
was in good shape, but who knows.  Think it's worth a trip back 
for?  

	Anyway, this weekend was fun (except for the rain/snow!)  One 
final note...for the Casette--how about Voodoo Cadillac by 
Southern Culture on the Skids?  Heard it on the radio a while 
back.  Kinda cool!

	
			Scott
		1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98        
	
		 	    

------------------------------

From: jsmith@radware.net (James Smith)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 21:09:12 -0300
Subject: why

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BB3211.DECB0320
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I have a set of 74 350 heads casting 8, I cc them and it came out to be =
97cc I know that the books are not going to be right do casting defects. =
but 17cc different? To make it even stranger the heads have been shaved =
.060 that should have dropped at least 10cc. I was just wandering where =
this list came from, or is there a type o, or do I have a very strange =
set of heads? hay I know the machine shop added .060( may be )  instead =
of taking it off. Well I was just wandering I not even going to use =
them, I am using some 71 350 casting 7 that came out to being 67cc. a =
lot smaller then 97cc. =20

MODEL   YEAR            CASTING #       ID      DISPLACEMENT

307     80-85           3317            5A      67 c.c.
307     86              0142            7A      64
350     71              409-147         7       70
350     72              409-147         7a      70*^
350     71-76           411-929         8       81
350     77-80           554-716         3A      75
403     77-79           554-717         4A      83
455     67-69           394-548         C       80
455     1970 only       403-686         E       77*#
455     73-76           411-783         J       82

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- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BB3211.DECB0320--

------------------------------

From: "Dink" <heinle@jake.udayton.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 21:11:38 -0300
Subject: Re:waxes

> Zymol is mucho expensive, though. 
Ok, Zymol is $20, and how much did you spend on your olds? And much 
do you care for it? I think $20 is cheap to keep a $10,000 car 
looking good.

> I usually use Blue Coral AutoFom,
Yep, good stuff, i've used this to.  


Dink

!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~
Dink           Dayton, Ohio
80 Olds Delta 88 Royale  MSD, K&N, Dynomax, etc..
http://homepages.udayton.edu/students/heinle/
- --

------------------------------

From: David Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 20:15:08 -0300
Subject: Paint

Is there anywhere I can get a good match for the original bronze paint used
on my Cutlass's engine?  I know Year One has it available, but it is $12.00
for a 16 oz. can!  I just want something close to original, but made by
Krylon or Rustoleum or something.  Any ideas?

Thanks..
- --
Dave Paulison             Melbourne, FL          69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: David Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 20:30:34 -0300
Subject: License plates

Is anybody familiar with old Florida license plates?  They have weight codes
or something like that on them.  I am looking for an old plate (1969
vintage), and want to get the correct code; I think it is W for my Olds.

- --
Dave Paulison             Melbourne, FL          69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: jrjet@whidbey.net (Dot & Tim McChesney)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 20:50:56 -0300
Subject: Re: intake manifold 

>i was wondering if anyone knows of a intake that would fit an olds 455
>and also support dual quads.  thanks
>
>dave rogers


I believe that offy still ofers the low rise dual quad set up through there
catalog. I have on for my 455 but have yet to try it. no carbs for it yet.

Tim 71 cutlass convert

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 00:12:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Internet List

John T. Blair wrote:
> 
> ...have there been any of you that just surfed the NET and found out 
> about this group?

Me! Me!  Don't remember which search engine I used but I used 
"Oldsmobile" as the keyword.  (Toronado kept giving me a bar in 
California.  Really!)

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO
Edison3, Incorporated
Tampa, Florida
(813) 210-8649

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 00:07:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Losing Coolant

Tom Lentz wrote:
> 
>      If the radiator cap is bad and the relief spring is opening before
>      it's supposed to, then it could be letting coolant out...

You know, Tom, you reminded me of something.  Everytime I had a similar 
problem, it turned out to be a weak cap.  Only leaks when the motor 
(and the water pressure) was up to speed; idling they seemed fine.

Hell, there only a couple of bucks.  I'd give it a try.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO
Edison3, Incorporated
Tampa, Florida
(813) 210-8649

------------------------------

From: Jeff Stanish <stanishj@svpal.org>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 21:19:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Paint

I believe Fusick Automotive will have it in quarts. They had my '69 H/O 
red and I was very pleased with the quality, but don't let it set on the 
self.  Also add a little Smoothie(Fisheye Perventer) to it before you sproy
the results will blow you mind!!


On Sun, 21 Apr 1996, David Paulison wrote:

> Is there anywhere I can get a good match for the original bronze paint used
> on my Cutlass's engine?  I know Year One has it available, but it is $12.00
> for a 16 oz. can!  I just want something close to original, but made by
> Krylon or Rustoleum or something.  Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks..
> --
> Dave Paulison             Melbourne, FL          69 Cutlass Supreme
> dpauliso@metrolink.net
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

From: <MikeC@pop.kis.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 22:50:51 -0300 
Subject: [none]

	(Linux Smail3.1.29.1 #57)  
	id m0uCGCG-0003CGC; Wed, 24 Apr 96 21:50 EDT
Message-ID: <317F041F.1073@pop.kis.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 21:48:31 -0700
From: Mike Coccagna <MikeC@pop.kis.net>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.01 (Win16; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Followup-To: How,to,remove,clear,coat
To: oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: Aluminum Wheel Refinshing/Removing Clear Coat
References: <9603128293.AA829355797@teknon.teknon.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Here is the section on Aluminum Wheel Finishing from the GM 1991 Calais 
Service Manual.  I have not needed to use this section yet, so I cannot 
attest to whether it works or not.  Hope it helps!

Mike (mikec@pop.kis.net)
'91 W-40 Quad442

____________

Aluminum Wheel Refinshing
A protective clear or color coating is applied to the surfact of o.e. 
cast aluminum wheels. A surface degradation condition can begin to 
develop if the clear coating is damaged or removed.  [tirade on automatic 
car washes and their ill effects removed.]  The following procedure 
details how to strip, clean, and recoat aluminum wheels that are affected 
by these conditions.

Required Materials:
	Amchem Alumi Prep number 33 - stock number DX533 or equivalent - 
cleaning and conditioning chemical for  aluminum.
	Amchem Alodine Number 1001 - stock number DX50T or equivalent - 
coating chemical for aluminum.
	Ditzler Delclear Acrylic Urethane Clear - stock number DAU-75 or 
equivalent.
	Ditzler Delthane Ultra-Urethane Additive - stock number DXR-80 or 
equivalent.

Initial  Preparation
	Remove or Disconnect
	1. Wheel and Tire assembly from the vehicle.  Refer to "Wheel 
Removal" in this section.(!)
	2. Outboard wheel weights.

	Clean
	Wheel inside and out with a water base all purpose cleaner.  
Remove grease or oil with a solvent cleaner.
	
Accent Color Preparation
	Sand over painted areas that do not require recoloring with 
number 400 grit (wet or dry) to promote adhesion of clear coat.

Surface Damage
	CAUTION:  DO NOT USE VEHICLE POWER TO ROTATE WHEEL WHILE SANDING 
OR PERSONAL INJURY MAY RESULT.
	1.  Mount tire and wheel on brake lathe and spinslowly.
	NOTICE: Do not use abrasive coarser than 80 grit or wheel may be 
damaged.
	2.  Sand wheel with backing block or pad by holding abrasive flat 
to surfaceof wheel and moving slowly back and forth from center to outer 
edge to remove damage.  Use the following sandpaper grits in the order 
listed.
		A. Sand with number 80 grit sandpaper.
		B. Sand with number 150 grit sandpaper.
		C. Sand with number 240 grit sandpaper.
	3.  Continue with "Recoating Procedure."

Clear Coat Damage on Unpainted Wheels
	CAUTION:  USE OF RUBBER GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION IS NECESSARY TO 
PREVENT PERSONAL INJURY.
	1.  Apply chemical stripper.
		-  Allow stripper to penetrate coating.
		-  Use small 1/4 inch detail brush dipped in stripper to 
apply around perimiter and spoke-like areas.
	2.  Remove stripper following manufacturers recommendations.
	CAUTION:  DO NOT USE VEHICLE POWER TO ROTATE WHEEL WHILE SANDING 
OR PERSONAL INJURY MAY RESULT.
	3.  Sand wheel with 240 grit sandpaper while rotating wheel on a 
slow spinning brake lathe or by mounting on vehicle and spinning by hand. 
 This will restore the machined appearance and promote adhesion.
	4.  Continue with "Recoating Procedure"

Recoating Procedure
	CAUTION:  USE OF RUBBER GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION IS NECESSARY TO 
PREVENT PERSONAL INJURY.
	1.  Clean surface of contaminants by washing with soap and water.
	2.  Spray the wheel with Amchem number 33 or equivalent.
		-  Let the wheel soak for 1 to 3 minutes.
		-  Rinse the wheel with water and blow dry.
	3.  Soak wheel with Amchem #1001 or equivalent.
		-  Let the wheel soak for 1 to 3 minutes.
		-  Rinse the wheel and blow dry.
	4.  Mask off the tire.
	CAUTION:  TO AVOID SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURYWHEN APPLYING TWO PART 
COMPONENT PAINT SYSTEM, FOLLOW THE SPECIFIC PRECAUTIONS PROVIDED BY THE 
PAINT MANUFACTURER.  FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE PRECAUTIONS MAY CAUSE LUNG 
IRRITATION AND ALLERGIC RESPIRATORY REACTION.
	5.  Finish the wheel with Ditzler Delclear Acrylic Urethane and 
Ditzler Ultra-Urithane Additive or equivalent using three coats.  Refer 
to labels for specific directions.
		- First coat - Light mist coat, let flash
		- Second Coat - Light, let flash
		- Third Coat - Heavy double wet coat
	6.  Let the wheel dry for 24 hours - (or flash for 30 minutes, 
force dry at 60 degrees C (140 degrees F) for 30 minutes, and allow to 
coor before mounting.

Install or Connect
	1.  Balance Wheel and Tire Assembly.  Refer to "Balancing Tire 
and Wheel" in this section.
		- Replace the origional wheel balance weights with nylon 
coated weights to avoid discoloration of the wheel.
	2.  Tire and wheel assembly

------------------------------

From: lawrencr@kostabi.gdls.com (Robert Lawrence)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 23:13:02 -0300
Subject: Re: Internet List

> Just want to pose a question to all of you. Other than JOURNEY WITH OLDS have there been any of you that just surfed the NET and found out about this group? We did and could not find anything when searching on the NET. We had to access this through the info we had from JWO.
> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ          email:  jblair@nhr.com


I first heard about in rec.autos.antique.  I think that was when Greg
was first cranking it up.

I've seen it a couple of other places since then, but I can't remember
where.  I thing it is in the rec.autos FAQ, and on some of the "Links to
Car Sites Pages".  Of course, it is in our FAQ, and on Bryceman's page.

- --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Robert Lawrence   | 1970 Oldsmobile 98 Convertible               .^.
lawrencr@gdls.com |  _________,~--,___________\____________     /9|8\
(810) 825-8007    |  |                |~    |        ___   |    \}|{/
Sterling Hts., MI |  =------(-o-)-------------------( o )--=      v

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 23:36:58 -0300
Subject: Hmmm...was Re: Car Show, Junk Yard -n- stuff. 

> 	Hey everyone!
> 
> 	I made it to the 10th annual Garden City Rod -n- Custom (local car club) 
> car show Sunday.  It was the kind of show where anyone could enter a car 
> for a fee no matter what it was or how it looked.  There were some pretty 
> nice machines to be sure, but the bondo/primer Chevelle was what really 
> got my blood pumping.  ;)

	*snip lots of my own babbling*

	Hmm.  Looks like my ISP finally puked out that message I was 
talking about.  Weird.

		Scott
	1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 23:59:52 -0300
Subject: sparking plugs

So, you race folks- Mr Urban, Bob, etc. -

425, 10.5:1 actual compression, rowdy cam, TH400 hi-stall, 3.73 gears, HEI with
mechanical advance only.

What spark plug?

It had splitfires before, hey, maybe that's why the 112k mile old Toro engine
did the 1/4 in a second less than the 455... :)

I'm thinking a plug for say a '77 403 Toro, for heat range, maybe a step
hotter, and shave back the electrode in true hot-rodder fashion, then 'index'
them as best swapping holes provides.

The engine is in place, the old one on the stand now. Found an ear broken off
the trans :( but not too big a deal.

Motor mounts replaced with new units- that did not fit... found another pair
in the pile, newish, that DID fit. Dang 'better' Holley carb looks cheesy- not
even a double pumper, no larger, hokey secondary link modifications... New
headers fit in with only one hammer session, didn't even have to lift the motor
to extract the header.

Neat trick: install a 3/8 stud in the rear header bolt hole, slot all header
holes. Cutoff wheeel to all pointy screws on the firewall. Best method of
torking trans-engine bolts: 3' extension and a u-joint socket- best $8 you can
- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 00:07:49 -0300
Subject: Re: Parts Wanted, P.S.

> By the way, I would like to purchase 1956 Olds spinners and/or 1950 3-rib
> beauty rims.  Anyone have?

	Someone probibly already responded to this one, but I think 
either Fusick, or Olds USA had repro setups, but they wanted mucho 
denero, if I remember correctly.

			Scott
		1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 00:05:56 -0300
Subject: Engine Flambe~...was Re: '69 Toros Really are Pretty - Honest!

> >BTW, not to rain on anyone's parade, does anyone recall seeing an article 
> >in JWO a while back that discussed the prevalence of engine room fires in 
> >'69 Toros? Don't know exactly why but I seem to recall some discussion 
> >about the engine wiring harness. Be careful, Bob...
> >
> Yes. Ralph Braun did an excellent article about the engine fires' 
It was a wire harness that ran down the drivers side of the intake manifold. 
He states that you must check the harness an re-tape and reroute them away 
from any areas that get extremely hot (ie. Heat riser in intake).
> 
	When I was poking around the junkyard this last weekend, I 
noticed that at least 3 or 4 of the Oldsmobiles I checked out had 
suffered engine fires (presumable what put them in the junkyard).  They 
were all early 60s (pre 65) cars, and all had melted dist. caps, wires, 
etc.  I can't really think of anything back there to catch, execpt the 
usual ignition wires, if you had some sort of serious fuel line leak.  
Hmm.  Better keep thoes lines tight!
	
			Scott
		1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: Buddha <buddha@itw.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 00:19:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Plastic Cleaner, Big Heads, Junkyard, etc.(Kinda Long) 

At 16.13 04,24,96 -0300, you wrote:
>>Speaking of wax, what do you guys use?
>
>Tried some goop in an orange can once called "NuFinish 2000" or some
>such crap. Total disaster. I'd never seen such a lot of swirl marks
>on a previously-decent finish. Took a lot of buffing out and rewaxing
>with Rain Dance to get back to a nice shine again. No, it was not
>oxidized to begin with, but God knows what NuFinish did to it...
>

that stuff did the same to my Bravada...it sucks...there is this one wax
that i found out about from some F*ord guy at a car show...for a black car
it was the best...forget the name, as the truck is going to be repainted the
new Bravada dark green...when i find it i'll let you know
               zack

>Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
>Datalogics, Inc.
>441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
>Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473
>
>
>
      ___
     /. .\
    _\_*_/_                     -<Buddha>-
   / /   \ \                   Buddha@itw.com
   \_\___/_/            HTTP://www2.itw.com/~buddha/
  /___\_/___\ "That which does not kill us makes us stronger"
 *************

------------------------------

From: Buddha <buddha@itw.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 00:29:06 -0300
Subject: Re: sparking plugs 

At 23.59 04,24,96 -0300, you wrote:
>So, you race folks- Mr Urban, Bob, etc. -
>It had splitfires before, hey, maybe that's why the 112k mile old Toro engine
>did the 1/4 in a second less than the 455... :)
>
>I'm thinking a plug for say a '77 403 Toro, for heat range, maybe a step
>hotter, and shave back the electrode in true hot-rodder fashion, then 'index'
>them as best swapping holes provides.

other than split fires...there are plugs called Rings of fire, i
think...well they have a circular electrode rather than the split, so you
get more spark...ive only ever seen these used in my friends Alpha Romeo though
                    zack
has anyone else used them?

>Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
>wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
>
>
      ___
     /. .\
    _\_*_/_                     -<Buddha>-
   / /   \ \                   Buddha@itw.com
   \_\___/_/            HTTP://www2.itw.com/~buddha/
  /___\_/___\ "That which does not kill us makes us stronger"
 *************

------------------------------

From: Caray95@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 00:29:51 -0300
Subject: unsubscribe. 

In a message dated 96-04-24 18:29:15 EDT, you write:

>oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca

Please un-subscribe me. 

Much too much email...Can't possibly read it all.

Other wise, keep up the good work...Olds forever

Ray Kelly

------------------------------

From: William Ansell <wansell@lynx.dac.neu.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 11:17:21 -0300
Subject: Removing clearcoat??

I have an 84' Hurst/Olds, The clearcoat on the chrome rims is starting
to peel.. I would like to remove it all but I can't find out what to
use? I have tryed acertone.. I have spent countless hours on one wheel
and It still isn't done.. Does anyone have any suggestions?
thank you
- -Bill Ansell
wansell@lynx.dac.neu.edu

------------------------------

From: "Dink" <heinle@jake.udayton.edu>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 01:36:32 -0300
Subject: Re: sparking plugs

> >It had splitfires before, hey, maybe that's why the 112k mile old Toro engine
> other than split fires...there are plugs called Rings of fire, i

Ah I think was a joke, like the fuel line magnet deal :)

Dink

!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~
Dink           Dayton, Ohio
80 Olds Delta 88 Royale  MSD, K&N, Dynomax, etc..
http://homepages.udayton.edu/students/heinle/
- --

------------------------------

From: Daniel Gulino <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 09:35:29 -0300
Subject: Re: Internet List 

At 07:16 PM 4/21/96 -0300, you wrote:

>Yeah, I found this group searching for "OLDSMOBILE".  Search came up with
>Bryceman's Olds Page, and I found out about it there.  BTW, what is "JOURNEY
>WITH OLDS"?
>
>--
>Dave Paulison             Melbourne, FL          69 Cutlass Supreme
>dpauliso@metrolink.net
>


Journey with Olds is the monthly publication of the Oldsmobile Club of America.
Yearly membership is $30.  I don't have the address in front of me, but I'm sure
someone else on here has it.  Bryce probably has it on his Olds page, too.


************************************************
Daniel A. Gulino
Associate Professor and Graduate Chairman
Department of Chemical Engineering
Ohio University
Athens, Ohio  45701-2979
(614) 593-1495
(614) 593-0873 (fax)
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://www.ent.ohiou.edu/che/faculty/gulino.html
************************************************

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 10:35:16 -0300
Subject: Re: Internet List 

          I found this mail list while surfing.  Did a Webcrawler 
          search for "Oldsmobile" and got Bryceman's Page, which led 
          me here
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Internet List
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at OSC-LINK
Date:    4/24/96 6:20 PM


Just want to pose a question to all of you. Other than JOURNEY WITH OLDS have 
there been any of you that just surfed the NET and found out about this group? 
We did and could not find anything when searching on the NET. We had to access 
this through the info we had from JWO.
John T. Blair  WA4OHZ          email:  jblair@nhr.com 
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (804) 495-8229
          
48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget  65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
     75 Bricklin SV1   77 Spitfire
          

------------------------------

From: Buddha <buddha@itw.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 09:57:48 -0300
Subject: Re: sparking plugs 

At 01.36 04,25,96 -0300, you wrote:
>> >It had splitfires before, hey, maybe that's why the 112k mile old Toro
engine
>> other than split fires...there are plugs called Rings of fire, i
>
>Ah I think was a joke, like the fuel line magnet deal :)
>

huh? fuel line magnet...ive heard that there is something you can do to
ionize the fuel and make it burn better, is that it?

oh, and by the way, the rings of fire cost about $12 a peice
                    zack

>Dink
>
>!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~
>Dink           Dayton, Ohio
>80 Olds Delta 88 Royale  MSD, K&N, Dynomax, etc..
>http://homepages.udayton.edu/students/heinle/
>--
>
>
      ___
     /. .\
    _\_*_/_                     -<Buddha>-
   / /   \ \                   Buddha@itw.com
   \_\___/_/            HTTP://www2.itw.com/~buddha/
  /___\_/___\ "That which does not kill us makes us stronger"
 *************

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 10:08:07 -0300
Subject: Fame & Fortune

I know this is off-topic, so if it bothers you, please delete this now 
and go no further.

<Geez, you'd think I was posting pornography or something... or at least 
pics of a Ford... ;-)>

OK. If you're still here, I just wanted to tell you guys that the April 
1st issue of Datamation magazine has an article (not about Olds, though) 
by me in it. If you're wondering what I look like, there are 4 pics of me 
there too. All of them bad, and probably not for the faint of heart. 
Anyway, I mention it not only because I needed to satisfy my ego, but 
also (seriously) I've been wondering what some of the folks here look 
like based on their writing styles, and if anyone has been wondering the 
same, here's a chance to see me in living color. Probably significant 
that they included it in their April Fool's issue...  :)

Now if they would only send me that cheque they promised I could afford 
to buy the new cam for my Cutlass! Hey, this _is_ on-topic!

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: "Bruce D. Brumm" <bdbrumm@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 13:48:30 -0300
Subject: How I found Heaven (Was: Re: Internet List)

> John T. Blair wrote:
> 
> Just want to pose a question to all of you. Other than JOURNEY WITH
> OLDS have there been any of you that just surfed the NET and found
> out about this group?
> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ          email:  jblair@nhr.com
> Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (804) 495-8229-- 
Was "surfing" one day, searching on '442', 'Cutlass', or some such and
came across Bryce's web page (http://www.442.com), from there, as I 
recall I found out about the Olds. List. Beautiful...

- --
Bruce D. Brumm (bdbrumm@ix.netcom.com)
Network & Systems Administrator
LDM Technologies, Inc.
Troy, MI

'84 Cutlass Supreme 307-Y
'86 Cutlass Salon 307-Y

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 12:17:52 -0300
Subject: Losing Coolant 

Those 70's GM's turning up in parts yards might be a good source for a coolant 
recovery bottle.

David Brown
dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu    (312) 702-9157
"Oldsmobile - powerful roadsters with big V8s"

- ------------------
BTW, are there any from other year
Oldsmobiles that will fit well and look decent (maybe from a newer model)?
I haven't tested the cap at all, probably just as well to replace it;
they're cheap.

------------------------------

From: "Michael Allen" <The_Allen_Family_ID@msn.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 03:09:49 -0300
Subject: FW: Any New Members on the List? 

Hello, I have been a member for close to a month now.  Have enjoyed and 
learned from monitoring the list.  Have told my brother-in-law in Michigan 
about the list (he rebuilds Olds - has a 69 rag top now with so many trophies 
he doesn't know what to do with them)  he is now anxiously awaiting his 
internet connection so he may also join.  I have responded to a couple of 
postings, but have mainly remained a listener.  Did not realize til now there 
was a policy of introductions, so here goes.....
Olds wise, I am an original owner of a 1983 15th Anniversary H/O that I 
purchased new on Feb 8, 1983 in Jerseyville, Illinois.  I have documentation 
from GM stating my car is number 2506 out of a lot of 3001 made that year.  My 
H/O is still all stock, with the only after market items added being an alarm 
and tinting on the windows.  Shortly after moving to California in 1986, the 
state police made me remove the tinting, the alarm remains.  No sense of humor 
at all!  The car was ordered with every option available that year (T-tops, 
power everything, gray cloth interior, etc...).  I still have all of the 
documentation that came with the car (window sticker, H/O license plate, and 
stuff like that) plus I have several of the magazine articles published in 
82/83 discussing the 15th Anniv H/O.  It has always been garage kept and has 
never been parked close enough to another car to allow their doors to even 
come close to mine.  Have had more fun driving this car than I could ever put 
into words.  I have only seen 2 other 15th Anniv H/O cars out here in the 10 
years I have been here. 
Personal wise I have recently re-married and started building another family.  
Have a lovely wife, a 2 1/2 year old son, and 7 month old daughter.  They keep 
me pretty busy and really make things worth while.  Work and play with 
computers when I am not playing with the children or cruising PCH.
Well enough for now, have to go to work in the morning.
Michael Allen
83 15th Anniv H/O
the_allen_family_id@msn.com
               or
allen@mdfc.com


- ----------
From:  oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca on behalf of Bob0Barry@aol.com
Sent:  Saturday, April 20, 1996 9:24 AM
To:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject:  Any New Members on the List?

Well, I haven't seen too many "new member introductions" lately (though there
have been a couple); has anyone joined the list recently? If so, it is
customary to introduce yourself, and tell of your Oldsmobile interests past
and present. I know I like hearing what other people are doing with their
cars.

So, if you have just joined the list, stand up and be counted! We'd like to
hear from you (*even* if you don't own a Toronado...;)

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #157
********************************

