
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

oldsmobile-digest          Sunday, 10 March 1996       Volume 01 : Number 114


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 08:51:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Toronado Xperts: Seen any XSR's?

>>I haven't seen that, but has anyone ever seen the '66 FORD Thunderbird
>>prototype that was made into a full-scale clay model?

     I guess after a while, Ford decided that clay was too expensive, and
started making their cars out of--Um, Well, Uh, Huh, I guess I can't say
that on here!!!  Fill in the blanks?
     Sorry, evil flame, couldn't resist!!!
                   |
           ________|________
          {        |        } Charley Buehner
          {        |        } "Rockit 1"
          {        |        } buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
          {        |        } http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {       /|\       }   "There's no replacement
          {     /  |  \     }        for displacement..."
          {   /    |    \   }
          { /      |      \ }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          """"""""]^[""""""""
                   ^
                   ^

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 08:51:00 -0400
Subject: Re: crunching noise was clicking noise

... side of the sway bar had some fresh marks on it,
>maybe the wheel is hitting the bar?
     Possible, if your new rims and tires are wider.  No major worries with
that, probably.

 Also the steering is very
>sloppy, i'm assuming it's the steering box, whats the life range of
>these?
     Odds are you're needing suspension parts.  The idler arm has a low life
expectancy, and the center link could be worn out also.  Tie rod ends could
be loose, too.  I've seen these go out long before you get any looseness in
the steering box itself.  These can all cause slop in the steering.
                   |
           ________|________
          {        |        } Charley Buehner
          {        |        } "Rockit 1"
          {        |        } buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
          {        |        } http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {       /|\       }   "There's no replacement
          {     /  |  \     }        for displacement..."
          {   /    |    \   }
          { /      |      \ }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          """"""""]^[""""""""
                   ^
                   ^

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 08:51:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Valve lift on my 403; and standards for shop man. specs

>>      	I've got an old cam from a '78 403; came from a Trans Am.  If 
I can
>> dig it up again, I could probably get some measurements from it, if it
would >> answer your questions. > >I was wondering if the Pontiac 403 and Olds
403 are the same?

     Umm, Pontiac 403?  Never heard of it.  Pontiac ran the Olds 403 in a
lot of the Firechickens, and that may be some of the confusion.   As far as
I know, the closest Pontiac came was their 400.

     Speaking of Trans Am's, Here's a perplexing question that may have no
pleasant answer, yet may provoke lots of dreaming, (I think I know the
answer, but I'll shoot it through here anyway...)
     Many of the Trans Am's of that era had 403's in 'em.  Many of the Trans
Am's had Turbo in 'em.  (You see where I'm going with this one already.....!!)
     Anyone ever heard of a Trans Am with a 403 Turbo???
Pppplleeaaasseee!!!___  :)  I've never seen or heard of such a critter, but
it only seems logical that they'd have at least tried it...
                   |
           ________|________
          {        |        } Charley Buehner
          {        |        } "Rockit 1"
          {        |        } buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
          {        |        } http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {       /|\       }   "There's no replacement
          {     /  |  \     }        for displacement..."
          {   /    |    \   }
          { /      |      \ }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          """"""""]^[""""""""
                   ^
                   ^

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 08:51:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Misc.

>
>
>> >     Drano is the same stuff they use in a hot-tank (NaOH...sodium
>> > hydroxide-- a very strong base).  I have a little 5 gallon tank that
>> > works like a dream on brackets and stuff.  I won't remove rust though,
>> > just paint and grease.  You would need an acid to remove rust.  NaOH also
>> > works a lot better if you can find a way to heat it.  One other tip--only
>> > use it on ferrous metal (iron or steel).  It will dissolve aluminum and
>> > other alloys making your day a lot less fun.  When you pull the stuff out
>>
>> Hmmmm.... way to remove rusted-in pistons?
>>
>
>	Hey, I didn't even think of that!!  I bet it would work if you
>put a really concentrated solution in there for long enough.  Only thing
>is it seems to foam up when it contacts it.  Maybe you could have the
>block hot-tanked and see what happens.  It would also eat the bearings
>though.  It'd be pretty weird to get your block back with just three
>rings frozen in the cylinder...

     Yeah, and an aluminum glaze covering the rest of the block and the top
of the hot tank solution!!!   Oops, kinda gives it a nice shine though...  :)
                   |
           ________|________
          {        |        } Charley Buehner
          {        |        } "Rockit 1"
          {        |        } buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
          {        |        } http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {       /|\       }   "There's no replacement
          {     /  |  \     }        for displacement..."
          {   /    |    \   }
          { /      |      \ }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          """"""""]^[""""""""
                   ^
                   ^

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 09:15:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Stuff

>>Second, I'd like to swap this rear-end into my '85 442.  Is it
>possible, and >>if so, what kind of mods are necessary?  Thanks in advance.

     I put a '70 Buick GS 3.23 posi in my '81 Cutlass.  It bolted up, but
not correctly.  The brake lines need to be refabricated, and I opted for a
cool set of lift bars from South Side Machine.  (4 control arms, new spring
seats, and shock mounts to adapt this axle to this car and correct COG and
lift points.)  The Summit part # is SSM-1328, cost $274.39.  Looks like a
very high quality system.  Will post more when I actually get it put on.  (I
want DAYLIGHT under my front tire, dammit!)
                   |
           ________|________
          {        |        } Charley Buehner
          {        |        } "Rockit 1"
          {        |        } buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
          {        |        } http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {       /|\       }   "There's no replacement
          {     /  |  \     }        for displacement..."
          {   /    |    \   }
          { /      |      \ }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          """"""""]^[""""""""
                   ^
                   ^

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 09:15:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Funny Ad

>Auto Swapper ad:
>'70 Chevy Cutlass Pace car [sic]
>convertible, original restoration/ documented Indianapolis 500 pace car,
>numbers match, $12,500
>517-332-0284 Lansing
>
>Heh. Yeah, that's the ticket! A CHEVY Cutlass, NUMBERS MATCH!!!
>
>I saw one here last year, suspiciously similar in description and price, but
>for some reason, the VIN indicated a 1971 body. Hardly a #-matching origina
if >the BODY has been replaced... maybe this is a different car.

     That's OK, up here, we actually get people who advertize something like
"1978 4X4, new tires, call .....  "  Don't even bother mentioning a
manufacturer.  They figure all cars are the same or something!  It makes a
guy wonder, sometimes!  But a Chevy Cutlass!!?  That's past stupid, that's
just plain rude!   :)
                   |
           ________|________
          {        |        } Charley Buehner
          {        |        } "Rockit 1"
          {        |        } buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
          {        |        } http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {       /|\       }   "There's no replacement
          {     /  |  \     }        for displacement..."
          {   /    |    \   }
          { /      |      \ }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          """"""""]^[""""""""
                   ^
                   ^

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 09:15:00 -0400
Subject: RE:break-in

>Item Subject: cc:Mail Text
>     >So, this killer 425 I am building for the 78 Cutlass race car, I
>     >bought moly rings for heat resistance... And the car is gonna be
>     >barely* streetable... is there any suggestions for breaking in the
>     >engine, how best to convince the rings to seat so he can cut himself
>     >some nice satisfying times?
>     >Thanks.
>     >--
>     >Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
>
>     Well Chris, now don't say I didn't warn you, but a barber named Dan
>     (with some great stories) had a pretty wild story to tell one day:
>
>     It seems that as a youngster (about my age, 23) he had just rebuilt
>     his first engine with, of course, Chrome Moly rings. He said he drove
>     it for about a week and the rings still hadn't seated (burning oil,
>     nasty compR etc.) So one day he pulls into a garage/gas station
>     smoking the place up with burning oil and the whole bit and this old
>     mechanic comes running out yelling to shut the D*MN thing off. Dan
>     (the future barber) explains that his rings are not seating and he
>     doesn't know what to do about it. The old mechanic says he knows of
>     only one way to get them to seat and walks over to the oil/fluid stand
>     and picks up a quart of tranny fluid then walks over and opens up the
>     hood and takes the air cleaner off. Of course Dan is flipping out
>     thinking that this guy is going to dump tranny fluid down his carb.
>     The mechanic then explains that there is some sort of chemical
>     property in the tranny fluid that seats the rings immediately. So Dan
>     ( a lot more trusting than I would have been) starts the car up and
>     revs up to about 2500 and holds while the mech dumps the tranny fluid
>     right down the carb and into the intake while yelling over the
>     sputtering/ coughing engine that if Dan lets the engine _die_ it will
>     be ruined. Then after about five minutes of sputtering ect. the car
>     smoothed out and never burned oil again. Dan said that he never let it
>     go below 2500 RPM and covered the whole block in bluish/purple smoke.
>     I don't know how well this really works but It's the only solution I
>     have ever heard other than letting them do it them selves. Anyone else
>     ever heard of this "method"?

     I've never heard of it, but that doesn't mean too much.  I'd be
skeptical of that damage part, though.  I can't see something getting ruined
by ATF, (unless he dumped like 5 Gallons down and Hyd. locked the engine, or
something!)  The worst I'd envision is fouled plugs.
     Sure sounds a lot better than some of the racer's methods, tho.  Some
of 'em build the engine, fire it up, and run it straight to ten grand or so.
Wide open, anyway, for about ten seconds, I guess.  They say this is where
the engine runs normally, and the engine will be apart soon anyway, and if
there was something wrong, that would certainly show it!
     I've heard of many ways to break in a new engine.  Most of them involve
anywhere between 1500 RPM for 15 minutes to 2500 RPM for half an hour,
depending on the source, mainly for cam break-in.  After that, varying
speeds from 50 to 500 miles, again depending on the source.
     The biggest thing to aid the break in is a good cross-hatch pattern and
good cooling and lubrication.  The rest varies as much as the imagination.
     If you've got nothing but money to play with, then the ten-grand idea
has it's merits, but that's not the case for me.   :)
                   |
           ________|________
          {        |        } Charley Buehner
          {        |        } "Rockit 1"
          {        |        } buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
          {        |        } http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {       /|\       }   "There's no replacement
          {     /  |  \     }        for displacement..."
          {   /    |    \   }
          { /      |      \ }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          """"""""]^[""""""""
                   ^
                   ^

------------------------------

From: gludlam@bcinet.net (Gregg Ludlam)
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 12:19:39 -0400
Subject: Re: '68/'69 Carb Specs

>I have had some friends try Carb Shop Ontario CA (909)481-5816 maybe they
>can help!

Thanks, I'll add them to the list of potential contacts.  Appreciate the
info...


- -Gregg, the '67 Toro guy

------------------------------

From: gludlam@bcinet.net (Gregg Ludlam)
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 12:23:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Carb advice wanted

>  Anyway, my trouble/irritation is the choke on the carb. I have to adjust
>it with the seasons. This winter, we have had some warm days. With the choke
>adjusted for cold weather, it really gets hard to warm up the engine when
>the weather gets too warm (over 50 degrees). Once the engine warms up, it
>runs fine.
>  What is the consensus on this situation? Someone has suggested I slap on a
>manual choke. That would fix it, but I had one on a previous car, and really
>got tired of pulling the knob in and out all the time.

Does this car have the thermostatic coil that rests in a well in the intake
manifold?  Maybe it's lost it's temperature-sensitive qualities - I'm
fishing here, but other than checking the various choke-rod adjustments and
tolerances, I'm at a loss.


- -Gregg, the '67 Toro guy

------------------------------

From: gludlam@bcinet.net (Gregg Ludlam)
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 12:27:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Toronado Xperts: Seen any XSR's?

>I've seen a few other body styles with the wraparound rear glass, too.
(Impala, >Gran Prix, and Monte Carlo SS all had played with that window at
some point in >time.)

Nothing else had the wraparound glass with the same size and intricacy to
the creases as the XSR, thus the price to replace the glass.  I recall
reading that that glass was a GM exercise/experiment on doing applications
to glass like that - thus the styling exercise on the XSR.


- -Gregg, the '67 Toro guy

------------------------------

From: gludlam@bcinet.net (Gregg Ludlam)
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 12:33:34 -0400
Subject: Stupid Suspension Question

Hey Gang,

Got a dumb question: Have any of you ever tried to center your steering
wheel yourself?  I had a front-end alignment but neglected to have the wheel
centered.  The alignment's fine, so in reading my Service Manual, I figured
I'd give it a shot.  Already checked that the steering wheel itself is
properly centered on the steering shaft up at the column.  Is it possible to
do without affecting the alignment since it's all done at the sterring box?
Any and all advice/warnings/slaps upside the head would be appreciated!
Thanks again...


- -Gregg, the '67 Toro guy

------------------------------

From: "Lowell V. Paden, Jr." <lvpaden@freedomnet.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 17:35:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Carb advice wanted

At 11:21 AM 3/9/96 EDT, you wrote:
>
>Does this car have the thermostatic coil that rests in a well in the intake
>manifold?  Maybe it's lost it's temperature-sensitive qualities - I'm
>fishing here, but other than checking the various choke-rod adjustments and
>tolerances, I'm at a loss.
>
>-Gregg, the '67 Toro guy
>

The coil is in a package on the side of the carb, with a plastic cover that
I can loosen and adjust the choke butterfly with. As the engine warms up the
coil, it pushes the butterfly open fully.

*************************************************
Lowell Paden
1972 Olds Cutlass convertible, 350/2bbl
  lvpaden@freedomnet.com
  lvpaden@aol.com
  lvpaden@richmond.infi.net (work)
*************************************************



------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 18:03:09 -0400
Subject: RE:break-in

The method I've heard of is hold the motor at 2000-2500 for 20 mins to
break in the cam, shut down, change oil.  For the next 500-1000 miles
don't allow the engine to stay at one RPM for too long, then change oil.

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

From: <Sherry_Soball@Douglas.BC.CA>
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 18:12:09 -0400
Subject: '55 Generator Burnout

Hello!  We're new to this forum which seems exceptionally active!  We own a
1955 98 Holiday Coupe, and are looking for some help, hoping someone out
there has a magical answer!

We have had 6 or 7 generators burn out for no explanable reason.  The
regulator has been changed 3 times, had the charging system checked out and
all seems to be functioning properly.

Prior to changing the regulators, we had noticed it overcharging and have
been told this can melt the solder in the armature.  This appears to be what
is happening.  Since we last changed the regulator, we have not noticed it
overcharging but have had to change the generator 3 times since the last
regulator.

The car only has a total of 17,000 mi. on it since total restoration,
approximately 3 years.


If anyone out there has any answers, suggestions, etc., they will be heard
gratefully.  Finding generators frequently is getting to be an unnecessary
expense, and they will likely become harder to find!

- - Dave & Sherry Soball
E-mail:  Sherry_Soball@douglas.bc.ca
- --

------------------------------

From: Bob0Barry@aol.com
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 19:28:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Valve lift on my 403; and standards for shop man. specs

In a message dated 96-03-09 07:44:31 EST, you write:

>     Speaking of Trans Am's, Here's a perplexing question that may have no
>pleasant answer, yet may provoke lots of dreaming, (I think I know the
>answer, but I'll shoot it through here anyway...)
>     Many of the Trans Am's of that era had 403's in 'em.  Many of the Trans
>Am's had Turbo in 'em.  (You see where I'm going with this one
>already.....!!)
>     Anyone ever heard of a Trans Am with a 403 Turbo???
>Pppplleeaaasseee!!!___  :)  I've never seen or heard of such a critter, but
>it only seems logical that they'd have at least tried it...

Not from the factory, but there was an aftermarket turbo developed for the
Trans Am application, which was featured in Popular Hot Rod back in 1982 or
1983. I remember the distinctive part of this turbo design was the sharp
angle that the exhaust entered the turbo, instead of entering straight on. It
was a sharp angle, which increased the throttle response and reduced turbo
lag at the expense of top-end power. I don't recall the manufacturer, but I
do remember it wasn't one of the biggies like Gale Banks or Callaway.

Anyone else remember this article? Since the Olds 403 only had one exhaust
setup, I'd assume you could put this kit on your '77 Cutlass and have a real
screamer (turned the 16 sec. T/A into a 14 sec car, no other mods, from what
I recall).

------------------------------

From: Bob0Barry@aol.com
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 19:28:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Valve lift on my 403; and standards for shop man. specs

In a message dated 96-03-09 14:07:45 EST, you write:

>The Olds 403 was dropped in 1980 for the 301 Turbo...

Plus, they weren't making the 403 anymore. Strange as it sounds, this 301
Turbo had more hp and torque (185hp,320ft/lbs for the Olds 403 against
210hp/340hp for the '81 301 Turbo). Of course, both engines were only offered
with automatics, and hence could only eek out a 16 sec. quarter and 0-60 in
9.5 seconds in those 4000lb Firebirds.

That 301, in both Turbo and non-turbo form, is often underrated for
performance use, along with the Olds 403. With a little development, both
motors could have been real screamers (when they got around to it with the
H/O's and 442's, all Olds had to work with was the 307).

------------------------------

From: Bob0Barry@aol.com
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 19:29:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Washer pump

In a message dated 96-03-09 07:40:42 EST, you write:

>>So, before you rebuild the pump, check to make sure you can actually pump
>>fluid out of the resevoir. Then rebuild it, since it is so cheap.
>
>     One problem I've had involves the little plastic "crankshaft/gear
>thingy!" inside the wiper motor.  The thing that actually drives the pump
>piston.  I've seen quite a few of these broken out, so that the hydraulics
>of the pump assy can be perfect, but the piston wont even move.  The wiper
>motor runs, but the pump just clicks, with no squirt.

Right, remove those four screws, take off the cover and diaphram, and see if
that little pump is going up and down before you go out and buy the rebuild
kit. For that matter, just clean up your little rubber diaphrams and see if
they work better after. Always better to try the free things first.

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 20:10:32 -0400
Subject: Countershaft Ball Stud

Does anyone know where to get the ball-stud assembly that the clutch
countershaft (Z-bar) rides on, on the engine side?

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

From: FREDALL@aol.com
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 22:11:06 -0400
Subject: Looking for 57 Super 88 for May Photo Shoot

I received a call tonight from John Murphy who is looking for matching 57 or
there abouts Oldsmobile for a Boston photo session in May. This car must have
its match on the West Coast . You can contact John at 617-776-0628 or me at
Fredall@AOL.com

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348>
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 22:17:52 -0400
Subject: Re: '55 Generator Burnout

On Sat, 9 Mar 1996 Sherry_Soball@Douglas.BC.CA wrote:

> We have had 6 or 7 generators burn out for no explanable reason.  The
> regulator has been changed 3 times, had the charging system checked out and
> all seems to be functioning properly.

Two things come to mind: are you sure you're getting the right part when
you replace the generator and regulator? And could the pulley be too
small, thereby spinning the generator too fast, thereby causing an
overcharge?

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 04:02:12 -0400
Subject: Re: '55 Generator Burnout

> > We have had 6 or 7 generators burn out for no explanable reason.  The
> > regulator has been changed 3 times, had the charging system checked out
and > > all seems to be functioning properly. > > Two things come to mind:
are you sure you're getting the right part when > you replace the generator
and regulator? And could the pulley be too > small, thereby spinning the
generator too fast, thereby causing an > overcharge? >

	One other thing is polorization...if you don't polorize the
generator after you disconnect the battery (or in this case, replace the
generator) I guess it can burn up the regulator, generator, or both.
According to my books, all you have to do is take a screwdriver or
something, and cross the "gen" wire and one of the others (forget which
one) on the regulator (I can look it up if you want).  Just something to
think about.
	
			Scott
		1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 06:20:00 -0400
Subject: Re: '55 Generator Burnout

>We have had 6 or 7 generators burn out for no explanable reason.  The
>regulator has been changed 3 times, had the charging system checked out and
>all seems to be functioning properly.

>If anyone out there has any answers, suggestions, etc., they will be heard
>gratefully.  Finding generators frequently is getting to be an unnecessary
>expense, and they will likely become harder to find!

     Just a biiiggg stretch here, but is there any possibility that you're
getting a 6 Volt generator on a 12V system?  (Grasping at straws, I'm not
very familiar with generators, except that they're huge and wouldn't last a
minute with my stereo!)
                   |
           ________|________
          {        |        } Charley Buehner
          {        |        } "Rockit 1"
          {        |        } buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
          {        |        } http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {       /|\       }   "There's no replacement
          {     /  |  \     }        for displacement..."
          {   /    |    \   }
          { /      |      \ }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          """"""""]^[""""""""
                   ^
                   ^

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 06:20:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Stupid Suspension Question

>Hey Gang,
>
>Got a dumb question: Have any of you ever tried to center your steering
>wheel yourself?  I had a front-end alignment but neglected to have the wheel
>centered.  The alignment's fine, so in reading my Service Manual, I figured
>I'd give it a shot.  Already checked that the steering wheel itself is
>properly centered on the steering shaft up at the column.  Is it possible to
>do without affecting the alignment since it's all done at the sterring box?
>Any and all advice/warnings/slaps upside the head would be appreciated!
>Thanks again...

     It's a simple matter of adjusting the toe on each wheel accordingly.
If the steering wheel is cocked to the left, you toe in the right tire and
toe out the left the exact same amount.  Usually you can get away with just
turning the adjusting sleeves an equal number of turns and be safe, but it's
best to recheck total toe when finished.
     >Note< Most/// (All?) reputable alignment shops should set toe with the
steering wheel straight ahead and the car running.  (This prevents any
residual load on the steering parts from the power steering gear.)  If you
had it aligned at a reputable shop, and don't want to mess with it yourself,
then by all means take it back.  Even if it wasn't a fairly reputable shop,
take it back anyway, and complain.  They may just scoff at you, and you may
just never go back there again, but one way or another, the alignment wasn't
correctly completed, and it should be brought to the mechanic's attention.
                   |
           ________|________
          {        |        } Charley Buehner
          {        |        } "Rockit 1"
          {        |        } buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
          {        |        } http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {       /|\       }   "There's no replacement
          {     /  |  \     }        for displacement..."
          {   /    |    \   }
          { /      |      \ }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          """"""""]^[""""""""
                   ^
                   ^

------------------------------

From: bdbrumm@ix.netcom.com (Bruce D. Brumm )
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 13:58:48 -0400
Subject: Transmission Question

Hi.  I'm fairly new to this group and was quite pleased to chance
across
it on the web.  I currently own two Cutlasses:  an '84 Cutlass Supreme
with a vin-Y 307 and 170,000 miles, and an '86 Cutlass Salon with a
vin-Y
307 and 104,000 miles.  BTW, my first Olds. was a '75 Cutlass Supreme
(with the Olds. 350) retired due to body rot at ~136,000 miles.

My situation is this:

    When the transmission is fully warmed up (time and distance varies
with city or highway driving) it does not seem to want to downshift on
its own.  The transmission is a 4-speed auto.; and I presume then, that
it is a TH-200R4.  There is a distinct lack of power and the pinging
from
the engine -- almost like trying to accelerate in a manual-transmission
vehicle from 10mph in 3rd or 4th gear.  I can force the downshift by
manually shifting to a lower gear or by tromping on the gas.  It also
seems to get into 4th gear too soon when accelerating.  My '84 olds.
also
exhibited the same problem from time to time.  It has a TH-200C.
(3-spd).
The fluid level is correct on the dipstick (in park, engine running)
and
is neither burned, scorched, etc.

My question is this:

    Could this just be a function of the filter being clogged and
needing
to be replaced, or could it be a vacuum leak of some sort? Is there
greater trouble in progress?  Any suggestions would be greatly
appreciated.

Also:  I have owned this car for about a month.  It has t-tops, guage
package, bucket seats, console shifter, etc.  The previous owner had
apparently started to convert this car to a 442 look-alike.  It is
black.
For fun and looks I may finish the job and paint the 442 scheme (on).
Does anyone know what the correct color schemes are and where I might
find a vin-9 (442, Calais, H/O) motor to put in the car?

Anyone interested in late-model ('81-'88) H/O's, 442's, etc. please
drop me a note.

Thanks,

Bruce D. Brumm
Network & Systems Administrator
LDM Technologies, Inc.
Troy, MI 48084

e-mail:  bdbrumm@ix.netcom.com
  home:  Auburn Hills, MI

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #114
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