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oldsmobile-digest          Sunday, 17 March 1996       Volume 01 : Number 121


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From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 16:50:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Older engine parts

>
> as you may remember... i have a 47 and a 48 olds.  both are 238 cu. in.
> in line, flat head, 6 cyl., cast iron block with the hydra-matic
> transmission.
>
> does anyone know where i can get an engine rebuild kit that is
> complete??
>
> also, transmission rebuild kits?
>
	Try Kanter Auto.  They stock a lot of engine parts for older
cars.  I got my mains, and rings from them when I rebuild my 394 last
summer.  Their prices were'nt bad compared to other places I talked to,
and the stuff turned out to NOS, so that was cool too.  The gasket set I
got from them was new.  They have a web
page at http://www.kanter.com, and I think that lists most of the stuff
in their catalog.  You can also get their latest catalog for free.  They
have some tranny stuff, but not a whole lot, but then nobody seems to.  I
also liked their service.  Good place.

			Scott
		1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 17:12:02 -0400
Subject: Pandoras' Wiper motor...was Re: Wiper Motors' Revenge

	Hey everyone!  I finally got my faulty wiper motor out my 98 last
night!  Cool, right?  Well, like usual, not exactly.
	The last screw holding the thing in was completly frozen (like
usual) and I ended up stripping the top of it smooth.  AARG!  Lots of
liquid wrench and cursing later, I decided to get serious with the thing
got out the drill.  I drilled a hole through the top of the screw and
pounded a torx nut driver bit into the hole.  Primitive, I know, but it
worked.  (This was at about 10:30 last night and I was in no mood to be
gentle with that screw).  The torx bit grabbed and I got the motor out.
Cool.
	Then I got the bright idea to take the back of the motor off to
look at the brushes and such.  BAD IDEA!  After I took the screws out of
the back, I managed to pull the case off the back of the motor.  SPRONG!
AAAAA!  The little springs that push the brushes flew out and left the
brushes hanging there!  I found the springs, but I really don't see how
you can retain the brushes when you put the thing back together.  I mean,
when I've rebuilt alternators and things you can stick a paper clip
through a little hole in the back to hold them.  There is no hole on this
thing.  Grrr.
	Anyway, the brushes really didn't look that bad, but I think
there is something wrong with the plastic gear that turns the arms, and
thats what was making the "thumping" noise when I had it running before.
At any rate, I think I'm going to see how much a NOS unit from the
dealership would cost.  Rebuilding my old one will run somewhere in the
$70 range, and I think that a new one probibly won't cost much more if
any.  As it stands right now it'll be a while before I can get one
anyway, since I'm saving for thoes body parts right now anyway.
	
		Someday both my wipers and my clock will work!  |)

		
			Scott
		1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

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From: Jason Labay <jlabay@Phoenix.kent.edu>
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 17:34:45 -0400
Subject: 84 Rally Guage Pack

I just took a rally guage pack off an 84 Cutlass if anyone is interested.
It has an 85 mph speedo and a 6,000 rpm tach with redline at 5,000.

Jason Labay
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25

------------------------------

From: Jason Labay <jlabay@Phoenix.kent.edu>
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 17:53:02 -0400
Subject: Misc. Stuff

Well I went walking through my dad's salvage yard this afternoon and made
a list of what I have. I have a 72 Cutlass 'S' parts car. most of the
interior is in great shape (non-cracked dash, original AM radio, good
vents, excellent headliner, ok door panels, etc...) It has the 2bbl 350
with factory dual exhaust and #7a heads. I will eventually be geting a
1969 Delta 88 4 door with a 4bbl 350. I will post more on that car when I
'officially' get it. Other than that I have a few late 70's to mid 80's
Cutlass's and Delta 88's and 98's. If anyone needs anything let me know
and I will see what I can do.


Jason Labay                                    jlabay@phoenix.kent.edu
1975 Hurst/Olds W-25                          xdsg80a@prodigy.com

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From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 19:08:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Pandoras' Wiper motor...was Re: Wiper Motors' Revenge

Someday both my wipers and my clock will work!  |)
                                                ^^
          Note the "cool shades" on Mr. Smiley Face!  Cool!  :)  |)


      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 19:08:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[6]: Radio question

     There are tons and tons of more professional styles of sound systems
that can retain any and all of the factory equipment.  The trick is getting
the right installer to make it work to your own desires (which usually isn't
too difficult)  I consider myself to have this qualification, but I've seen
many around here that don't...
     Anyway, there are aftermarket suppliers around that supply factory
wiring harnesses that you can "tee" into the original wiring, to avoid
cutting.  There are many companies that offer CD changers that mount in the
trunk or elsewhere, and run via remote, completely isolated from the factory
system (if desired)  I'd personally have the radio isolated to eliminate any
residual backfeeding through its internal amp, but it can be done.  Also,
many of the AM-Only cars had only one dash speaker.  (I hate that!)  This
absolutely ruins any stereo imaging that would be available through seperate
left and rights.  The rear often had two, which leaves a lot more room for
options.
     As for the battery concept, I think I'd rather have it running off the
key anyway.  That way you don't accidentally leave it on, and kill that
battery.  Most smaller stereos don't require that much current, so they can
be left on for a considerable amount of time without killing the battery
(assuming it's good)  Whereas a 9V, once it's dead, you can drive, but NO
TUNES!!!  @#$%@   :(
     That's all based on personal priorities, tho.  My car, I wouldn't dare
leave the stereo on for more than half hour, but it's not one of those
original deals, either.  (Plus, if I DID, the cops from neighborring towns
would probably be giving me tickets anyway!)
     The Walkman (or Discman) is a relatively good idea.  I've done it for
years, but I prefer to use a lighter adaptor, or a hardwired power source,
cuz theres nothing worse than having tunes crap out on you due to a dead
battery.  (Ever take long trips?  Ya know what I mean then...)  Many
companies offer those, as well.
     Just a bunch of rambling thoughts on the subject.  Couldn't stay away
from it!!!


>If you are going into car shows with "origional" oldsmobiles, stick with
>the origional radios (just my opinion)  If you want good tunes, hook up
>the speaker wire to your caar speakers (and also leave the origional
>radio attached) run the speaker wire to the glove box, connect it to a
>walkman jack.... and wah-la!  new tunes!   while keeping the origional
>radio functional and you can plug in a walkman, cd player, or tape
>player.  if you need the tunes louder.... hook up an amp (radio shack
>sells one for about $10.  it runs off a 9 volt.
>
>
>the new tunes stays hidden, the old tunes still work, and at the shows,
>you can leave the "new tunes" playing without running your battery down!
>
>Gotta run, are there any opinions on this?
>
>--joe (the college student)
>
>
>

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 19:08:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Hot Roddin' an Olds!

>Hey there!  i have a 47 olds fastback.   I want to put in a 350.

>I heard that any GM Transmission will bolt on to an olds as long as it
>is from a 350 engine.  is this true?
     Only from a Buick, Olds, or Pontiac (BOP) Bowties have different bolt
patterns.  They can be made to work, but they aren't recommended.  (I think
you end up leaving out two bolts, or something!)

>I would like to hook up options like a/c, ps./pb, cruise control, etc.
>
>any info. is appreciated.   (also, this is my first rod.  any general
>suggestions or problems you'ld see me running into??)

     Well,  Start with a lot of hair, and long fingernails.  Enjoy them
while you can.  By the time you're satisfied, they'll all be gone!  Trust me
here!!!  Oh, and don't get too used to having "pleasant skin" around your
knuckles, either!  :)

      Charley Buehner         "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Havre, Montana          http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"              '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"              '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 00:07:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Misc. Stuff

>I have a 72 Cutlass 'S' parts car. most of the
>interior is in great shape


Does it have a pair of nice white bucket seats by chance? I'm looking
for some...


<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Michael R. Hall               Ortonville, Michigan
E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com
Owner: 1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

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From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 03:24:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Another crank

     After reading this, I rememberred seeing that same notch on my old 350
crank, too.  I checked it out today and, yep, same thing.  I think it was
supposed to be a '69 350 (never checked it out) Its a "2" block.  Big "N" on
the crank at the front.  The block # is 395558, and the crank's number (I'm
assuming -- back by the 5&7 journal) is 393654.  I guess that's a cool
thing...

     So, Chris...  Um... I guess this is more your area of expertise, so
exactly what ~is~ the Nodular crank?  I've gatherred that it's something
between a cast unit and forged unit, for quality, but I've never gotten much
more indepth than that...



>Last nite I dismantled the 2 350 junk engines I got at the scrap yard. Mostly
>after the heads, as weather had goten in pretty bad and the pistons are now a
>permanent part of the block. Got the heads, intakes off OK, then decided to
>have the flexplate off the 68 2V engine, too. What's this?! an L-shaped
notch? >Huh, a 330 crank? Nope, measured the bolt pattern- it's a late pattern
>allright. Gee, a forged late-pattern 350 crank?? Nope, there's the thin part
>line characteristic of a casting.... AHA, a big old N on the front
>counterweight! >   So, it's a Nodular cast late pattern 350 crank with an
L-shaped notch on the >rear face... > >Casting number 393654, with N on front
counterweight. >Unusual-looking pistons with a dish 2.540" dia. x 0.225" deep,
#398661 >1111929-4G12 distributor: 1964, or 1974? Broken anyhow, no value but
info. >VIN 38M141863 >F2 block, cast on day 275, presumably of 1968. >
>Extracting the crank was quite the chore. After cutting the rods with the
>flaming hack saw, and removing the main caps, ot would still not budge. Had
to >pry with 2 very large pry bars to get that center bearing to come out. Two
of >the rods had a very funny S-shape! bent sideways. I guess that explains
why it >spent the last who knows how many years outdoors upside down with no
oil pan. > >So, there ya have it- 1968 engines, even the lowly 2-barrel, might
very well >have a Nodular iron crank, and if so, might very well have an
L-shaped notch on >the back. [try to find one that still turns, though!
sheesh!] > >-- >Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
>wittchri@pilot.msu.edu > > >

      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: "Shawn M. Twomey" <stwom@ctp.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 04:58:20 -0400
Subject: Digest #119

Sorry to waste bandwidth, but can someone please forward me digest #119
(originally mailed out Friday)?  My mail server didn't get it.

Thanks,

__________________________________________________________________________
Shawn M. Twomey     |  "No!  Try NOT!  Do, or do not.  There is no try."
stwom@ctp.com       |  -Yoda
__________________________________________________________________________

------------------------------

From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 09:48:47 -0400
Subject: Vintage Wheels

My April/May issue of "Muscle Car Review" has a fairly comprehensive
review of custom and original wheel styles. Of particular interest to
me was the Olds Super Stock wheel (PO5?), the chrome with black insert
style. It is available in 14x6, 14x7, 15x6, 15x7 and 15x8. Construction
is steel and comes in two styles. One for the chrome trim ring and my
favorite, with a full chrome rim. Here's the address:

Specialty Wheels Ltd.
Dept. MCR
34566 SE Gunderson Rd.
Sandy, OR  97055
Phone: (503) 668-4793

BTW, a rather lengthy article on GM A-Body Seat repair is also in the
magazine...


<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Michael R. Hall               Ortonville, Michigan
E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com
Owner: 1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

------------------------------

From: edison3@cpeq.com (Mike Frederick)
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 17:12:01 -0400
Subject: More Radio Stuff

I've been meaning to follow-up on the discussion of "new tune" hookup for
older cars.

While I'm sure some of you have hooked up a new radio to the old wiring
harness and left the old radio connected, I would NOT consider this to be a
great idea for eveyone to try unless you have a LARGE pile of radios to
experiment with.

Here's why:

By hooking two amplifiers to the same speaker you are hooking the outputs of
the two amplifiers together:
                                     ---------
       ---------
                                     |
|---------------+-------------|          |
                                     | Amp |           (Speaker)        | Amp
|
                                     |
|---------------+-------------|          |
                                     ---------
       ---------
Each amp then becomes part of the load to the other amp -- just like one of
the speakers.

If the old radio has an 8ohm output (or 10 as I remember someone saying) and
you hook up an 8ohm speaker, your new amp will now have a 4ohm load, NOT an
8ohm load as
you would expect (two 8ohm load in parallel make a 4ohm load).  This would
probably be harmless unless you used a 4ohm speaker instead of an 8-ohm or
decided to hook up a second 8ohm speaker.  Then you would then have a
2.67ohm load on your new amp.

This is generally well below the specs for most amps: 4ohms.  So guess
whatcomes next:
MELTDOWN!  At very least, if the amp has internal fuses, they blow.

This only hold true if only ONE of the amps is powered up.  If BOTH of them
happened to be turned on, it gets worse.  The amps are putting out voltages
that vary according to the content of the sound they are amplifing.  At some
point, one amp will put out a positive voltage while the other is putting
out a negative voltage.  Ever hook up your battery wrong?
Same kind of sparks.

BTW, the positive (or red dot) and negative marks on amplifier terminals and
speakers DO NOT indicate positive and negative voltage.  Never did, never
will.  They are only there to make sure you hook all your speakers up the
same way.  That is: in phase.  If they are not hooked up correctly no great
harm will be done but you will get weak bass response.
(Hint: Weak bass?  Try reversing the wires on ONE speaker and see if it
improves.)

If you want to take this approach, either wire up a speaker selector switch
to select the amp or hook up a 12v relay to the amp (or radio) hot to switch
the speakers to the new amp whenever it is turned on.

Also the "one dash speaker ... ruins any stereo imaging..." is more than
correct.  Never even try to hook both channels of a stereo amp to one
speaker.  It is excatly the same situation as described above.

I could go on and on but its warm and sunny in Tampa so I'm going back
outside. (Cris: how's the thaw coming?)            |) !

If anyone wants more, pipe up.

The 66 Toro and Mike (formerly factory tech for Revox, Tanburg, McIntosh,
and others)


(Mike not the Toro)


Michael R. Frederick, CEO
Edison3, Inc.
Tampa, Florida
813.210.8649

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #121
******************************** 
