
oldsmobile-digest           Tuesday, 14 May 1996        Volume 01 : Number 174


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: loulacy <loulacy@iquest.net>
Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 22:42:36 -0300
Subject: (no subject)

need any and all info on 1963 dynamic 88 holiday with three speed tran

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348>
Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 21:08:45 -0300
Subject: Restoration Stuff

Been detailing soem small things on the Cutlass lately. First, a tip: 
I've found Krylon's "dull aluminum" spray paint a great product to use to 
redo the factory "argent" paint they used to highlight die-cast pieces, 
grilles, etc. Drys quick, hard to make run unless you really screw up, 
looks almost exactly like the original. Recommended.

Does anyone know what finish the (gowdawfully poor designed) hood hinges 
on a '68 should be? The underhood where they attach is black, so I 
suppose the hinges could be too, or body color (doubtful), cast 
gray/natural, cad-plated, I dunno. I can't tell with mine what they used to 
be. Ideas? 

Parts hunt: anyone out there have a manual right-side mirror for a 
'68/'69 Cutlass? Elliptical-shaped glass, with two rather large mushroom 
heads to attach it to the door... and cheap but in good shape. I know, 
I'm dreaming...

People finally starting to understand: my brother phoned yesterday 
morning, wanting to know if I wanted to buy an '85 Cutlass he had just 
spotted while getting gas at his neighborhood station. Nice shape, he 
said, 2-tone blue, rally wheels, t-tops, V-8, the guy is selling it to 
buy a motorcycle, wants $3500. Told him thanks but that seemed high... 
and I'm semi-broke anyway, as usual. But it looks like the Olds-virus is 
starting to be understood here, at least. Might go look at it anyway, 
just for interest.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: jblair@exis.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 21:37:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Air Filters for OAI 

>     While on the subject of air filters, what do you guys with OAI systems 
>     use?  I've finally got my OAI hood in the shop to be painted and was 
>     putting on the flapper assembly when I noticed that the old non-OAI 
>     filter was too tall and too wide to fit the new top pie pan.
>     
>     Went to the local Trak Auto and found that the AC-Delco A366C was the 
>     filter of choice (with a mention of an alternate A542 w/outer wrap).  
If you can find a place that sells Purolator filters the still have them under PN AFP-102 for about $5.00 ea. 

Jim Chermack




John T. Blair  WA4OHZ          email:  jblair@nhr.com
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (804) 495-8229

48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget  65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
     75 Bricklin SV1   77 Spitfire

The one with the most toys, wins!

------------------------------

From: jblair@exis.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 21:37:38 -0300
Subject: Re: SX 

>Okay so lemme get this straight about SX's....the W-32 SX is the rare one 
>(100 made) and most SX's are NOT W-32's (6,000 whatever holiday coupes, 
>etc).  The only year W-32 SX's were available was in 70 though regular 
>SX's continued to 71.  The regular SX engine is the L31 4-bbl 455 with E 
>code heads and 2" intakes, the L33 being 2-bbl, and the W-32 being 
>identical to the 442 engine so 2.07" intakes.  The W-32 package also 
>comes with the W-25 OAI system?  Is all of this correct people?
>
OK. The orig. base engine was the L-33 455 2 bbl. Then (based on information I just received the L-31 4 bbl engine took it's place in January 1970. The SX with the W-32 was the rarest one with only 1025 being built. That figure was given to me by a gentleman from Conn. He also has one and yes his has Ram Air also. The one that I own was built in October of 1969, so its an early car.

Jim Chermack




John T. Blair  WA4OHZ          email:  jblair@nhr.com
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (804) 495-8229

48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget  65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
     75 Bricklin SV1   77 Spitfire

The one with the most toys, wins!

------------------------------

From: jblair@exis.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 21:37:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Filters 

>
>     As far as I know, the AC PF24 and PF45 (I hope I remembered the number 
>     right) are the only two AC's that fit Oldsmobiles.  The PF24 holds 
>     more volume, and is my filter of choice when it'll fit.  The PF24 is 
>     "short and fat" and the PF45 is "long and skinny".  I wish I could 
>     find a "long and fat" filter for Oldsmobile.
>     
Mondello recommends if you can find them(K-Mart has them sometimes is a PF-31 for a Rambler of all things.) This is the long filter and has the proper bybass. The filters are usually on sale for $2.99 ea.

Jim Chermack

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ          email:  jblair@nhr.com
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (804) 495-8229

48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget  65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
     75 Bricklin SV1   77 Spitfire

The one with the most toys, wins!

------------------------------

From: Buddha <buddha@itw.com>
Date: Sun, 12 May 1996 23:06:01 -0300
Subject: 307 V8 

ok...will a 350 intake fit on a letr model 307?  i need to know this as to
keep the SMOG legality on my truck...and would the heads also fit...i might
have to use the heads as some were special to TBI...
                    zack
      ___
     /. .\
    _\_*_/_                     -<Buddha>-
   / /   \ \                   Buddha@itw.com
   \_\___/_/            HTTP://www2.itw.com/~buddha/
  /___\_/___\ "That which does not kill us makes us stronger"
 *************

------------------------------

From: johnspr@ix.netcom.com (JOHN PRESTON )
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 00:00:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Isolating the Olds Middle Exhaust Ports

You wrote: 
>
>
>>  I normally had these welded over but recently discovered this
>> >zinc alloy that Mondello has sold for quite some time. I've been 
told this
>> >is the easiest way, I'll be trying it in the next few weeks so I'll 
have a
>> >better idea then. Welding the exghaust port flange up is worth 5% 
in HP
>> >gain, every little bit helps.
>> 
>> I know about closing that crossover port in the heads, but what are 
you
>> welding when you talk about "welding the exhaust port flange up"?  
What gets
>> welded to what?
    

I have tried a different approach to isolating the two center exhaust 
ports in the heads.  I simply made a profile of the recessed exhaust 
port wall with one of those devices which has many adjacent metal 
"probes" (you can buy them at almost any hardware store.  I then traced 
that outline to a piece of 1/8" thick steel, cut it out and welded it 
to the flange of my hedder......the result is that the isolator wall is 
integral to the hedder rather than the head, but functions in the same 
manner.  The advantage of this approach is that you avoid welding of 
the cast iron head with its attendant pre-heating, tricky welding, and 
controlled cooling required for a successful weld.

------------------------------

From: Bob0Barry@aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 02:37:19 -0300
Subject: Knock-knock... 

"Knock-knock"

"Who's there?"

"Wernja Gunna"

"Wernja Gunna who?"

"Wernja gunna rebuild me anyway...?"

******
Well, found an apartment up in Providence yesterday, walk two blocks to work,
and I have a whole half of a *garage* to keep the Toro in!

On the way back in my factory 403-powered Electra, my wife and I start
talking about how reliable this car has been for us, remarking about how well
it has run, how it is the only car that has never left us stranded or
required a tow, how it still runs *great* for a car with 220,000 miles on it,
etc. etc.

Ya know how people always say not to talk about things, or else you'll jinx
them? Well, they're right!

After driving up to Providence and back again today, to confirm the rental
(about a 3-hour drive), we park the car, pick up the baby, and start up the
car to head to a mother's day party at the bro-in-law's. 

"knock-knock-knock" Uh-oh. Shut her down, think "hmmm, sticking lifter
again?"

"Knock-Knock-Knock" Nnnnnope! Lifters aren't that loud, or that deep. These
are the death rattles, for sure.

Oh, well, I was going to rebuild it in a couple weeks anyway; too bad it died
in my in-laws driveway rather than my parents', where the work will be done.
It does help, though, that I'm now on a first-name basis with Connecticut
AAA; they've reserved a truck just for me! (I feel *so* special ;)

Back at the ranch (house) where I'm going to rebuild it, pop's comes out, not
believing this beast has finally bit the big one (it was a second-hand car
handed down to me with untold miles). Just for proof, I fire it up to back it
into cherry-picker position:

"KNOCK! KNOCK! KNOCK!!!"

I could do an experiment, drain the oil and water to see how long it would
run. Or I could take it down to the strip and run it in the "Blown" Gas class
(that'd be an entertaining sport; racing cars that have spun bearings; c'mon,
Chris, first one over 50mph takes the pink slips! ;)

I'll be bringing the spare 403 to the machine shop this week anyway, so if
anything isn't up to snuf, hey, I've now got a "parts" 403.

- -Bob, always lookin' on the bright side, Barry

------------------------------

From: clark@sh28.dseg.ti.com (Pat Clark 952-3776)
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 10:10:36 -0300
Subject: HEI wires and Boat Names

	Put the HEI in my car this weekend. First thing I noticed is that the
old plug wires do not work on the HEI cap. The HEI plug in leg of the 90 deg
wire is much too long to plug up and slide over the exposed clips ( in other
words, the wires plug up, but then the boot will not cover up the connection)
the other thing I noticed is that the clips do not snap on very tight. Does the
top hold down plate insure good contact with the wires?

As for the boat names. How about

Cutloose (Cutlass , Cutloose, Get it?) Oh well, I like H2Olds the best so far.

Be carefull the first time you go pulling that skier or there will be a thread
started in alt.folklore.urban titled "Skier looses arms to overzelous boat
driver!"

Good Luck!



          ___              ___        _________
         /   |            /   |      /         \
        /    |           /    |     |   ___    |
       /     |          /     |     |__|   |   |
      /      |         /      |           /   /   
     /       |        /       |          /   /   
    /   /|   |       /   /|   |         /   /
   /   /_|   |__    /   /_|   |__      /   /
  |             |  |             |    /   /
  |______     __|  |______     __|   /   /_____
         |   |            |   |     |          |      Pat Clark
         |___|            |___|     |__________|       69 442
						      400/400

   "Just your average 300+hp garage hogging, gas sucking, money pit"

------------------------------

From: "Bruce D. Brumm" <bdbrumm@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 13:34:58 -0300
Subject: Re: Air Shocks

Mike Frederick wrote:
> 
> Bruce D. Brumm wrote:
> 
> > I recall that the late-model (mid-80's) Toronado had a suspension
> > system which used a compressor to actively maintain a rear ride height
> 
> Are you sure they were air-shocks and not air-springs?  My wife's Linc*ln
> has a similar system but they're air-springs (like a moving truck) with
> standard shocks.

Gary Green wrote:
>
> BTW lots of talk about air shocks etc lately.  My 85 Toronado has > automatic
> level control.  I haven't investigated it, but think it is automatic air
> shocks in rear.  Will look it up in the manual if there is any interest.

In the FWIW Dept., I hauled out the shop manual last night (all '84 Olds.).  The
Hurst Olds used air shocks with the valve "conveniently located behind the fuel-
filler door".  The Toronado used/uses a similar shock controlled by a ride height
sensor and compressor.  No air-springs... anyway, on to other things...
- -- 

Bruce D. Brumm (bdbrumm@ix.netcom.com)
Network & Systems Administrator
LDM Technologies, Inc.
Troy, MI

'84 Cutlass Supreme 307-Y
'86 Cutlass Salon 307-Y

------------------------------

From: peter_teubel@mail.hanks.com
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 12:18:03 -0300
Subject: Re: Out for a Drive Today 

     Way too much.  I bought my 51 Olds 98 for $2000 and it was running 
     (licensed and everything).  No rust to speak of except for the fact 
     that 3 of the 4 fenders were dented.  In fact, I drove it home (200+ 
     miles) and only used 4 quarts of oil <G>....due to  leaky gaskets, not 
     internal problems.  
     
     Unless it was a convertable, that 88 will be there a long time...


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Out for a Drive Today
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at SMTP
Date:    5/12/96 7:35 PM


Was out with the wife and kids on a Mother's Day Sunday drive, and passed 
by the side of the road an early '50s Olds 88 with a "For Sale" sign in 
the window.  Had to stop and take a look.  Could not tell the exact year 
(I'm not familiar enough with Olds's of this vintage, 1949-53, to be able 
to tell them apart by year), but it was a 4-door sedan and had an "88" with 
the Rocket through it on the trunk lid.  
     
The car was, in short, a basket case.  Rust everywhere, paricularly in 
the floorboards.  70,000+ miles showed on the odometer, but who knows 
how accurate that was.  No one was around to ask.  
     
The asking price on the sign in the window was $1500, which seemed at 
least a factor of three too high to me.  I don't know if it ran or was 
driveable, but the license plate sticker expired in January '96 and 
hadn't been renewed.  All four tires looked ok, though, and held air.  I 
did not lift the hood.
     
Assuming that it ran, it would definitely be a #5 condition car, which my 
Old Cars price guide actually pegs at $1400-$1600 for '51s and '52s.  
     
I still wouldn't pay more than 1/3 of that price.  Unless it had the last 
part I needed to finish the restoration of another car.
     
     
     
Dan Gulino
     
     

------------------------------

From: clark@sh28.dseg.ti.com (Pat Clark 952-3776)
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 11:19:14 -0300
Subject: HEI Question follow-up

Well, here I am aswering my own question. The HEI plug wires are different in 
that at the cap they snap around the terminal (just like at the sparkplug) 
instead of pushing down into the cap terminals like on the points dist cap. This
Throws the boot-to-interface geometry out of wack. Doesn't appear that I can use
the old wires (Damn, only about 400 mi on them!) with the HEI cap, they just
don't have a very tight connection. I think I could fix the boot problem but
not the tight fit problem. I tried crimping them in slightly to get a tighter
fit, but they just deformed outwards again when pushed onto the cap. Oh well,
whats another 30 bucks? (on top of the $36 they want for a Thermal Vac Switch)

Hey, how about Oldsmarine, Pieces of 88, 455jive?

I'm Gone!


          ___              ___        _________
         /   |            /   |      /         \
        /    |           /    |     |   ___    |
       /     |          /     |     |__|   |   |
      /      |         /      |           /   /   
     /       |        /       |          /   /   
    /   /|   |       /   /|   |         /   /
   /   /_|   |__    /   /_|   |__      /   /
  |             |  |             |    /   /
  |______     __|  |______     __|   /   /_____
         |   |            |   |     |          |      Pat Clark
         |___|            |___|     |__________|       69 442
						      400/400

   "Just your average 300+hp garage hogging, gas sucking, money pit"

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 10:34:52 -0300
Subject: Re: HEI wires and Boat Names 

Oh, good, I can cover two followups at once under this Subject...

>	Put the HEI in my car this weekend. First thing I noticed is that the
>old plug wires do not work on the HEI cap.

Right, different geometry. You need to look up the right wire set number for
a more recent year of that engine, a year when it would have received HEI.
I don't remember which engine this was, but if there's a listing in the books
for it more recent than, say, 1974, that would have HEI on it for sure.

>the other thing I noticed is that the clips do not snap on very tight. Does
>the top hold down plate insure good contact with the wires?

Well, it's more to ensure that the wires don't work loose again later, plus
in theory you can remove/replace the wires on the cap all at once by yanking
on the ring (realistically you have to push down on each wire one at a time
anyway in order to get them seated, after which you push _really_ hard on
the ring and it will latch onto the cap). Look carefully under the grime of
the ring and you will see the cylinder numbers for each wire molded in next
to the appropriate hole, a nice touch to help avoid mixing up the order.

For some reason I've forgotten, we used to call those things "idiot rings",
although I thought they were a pretty good idea. So of course GM discontinued
them later.  :-(  Newer wires don't have the "button" on the wire boot that
snaps into the ring, although you can clip the ring on over the boots anyway.

>As for the boat names. How about
>
>Cutloose (Cutlass , Cutloose, Get it?) Oh well, I like H2Olds the best so far.

Yeah, I was thinking of "Waterfire" or something like that.

I know the following is not auto-related, but I've always wanted to have a
boat just so I could name it "This Should Float II"  :-)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Shawn M. Twomey" <stwom@ctp.com>
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 12:01:50 -0300
Subject: Olsmobubble 

>Any suggestions on a name for the
>craft would be greatly appreciated.

Aquatic Apprehender?
River Rocket?
W-H2O?

....maybe not.

__________________________________________________________________________
Shawn M. Twomey     |  "No!  Try NOT!  Do, or do not.  There is no try."
stwom@ctp.com       |  -Yoda
__________________________________________________________________________

------------------------------

From: "Shawn M. Twomey" <stwom@ctp.com>
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 12:11:22 -0300
Subject: Air shocks 

>Hey all you G-body (81-88)442 and Hurst owners...didn't the 442 and Hurst
come >stock with air shocks?  

Indeed...one of the first things I replaced.

>I know a guy with an '84 442...

If it was an '84, it was a Hurst/Olds or a Calais, 442s didn't show up 'till
'85.

>this
>was from reading the factory shop manual (ok, ok, but it still beats
watching >"Friends" or re-runs of "The Dukes of Hazzard!").  Shop manuals
are great!

Two words:  Daisy Duke.  ;-}

__________________________________________________________________________
Shawn M. Twomey     |  "No!  Try NOT!  Do, or do not.  There is no try."
stwom@ctp.com       |  -Yoda
__________________________________________________________________________

------------------------------

From: Lucas Frick <frick@macrochip.com>
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 12:29:24 -0300
Subject: Re: Boat names

How about BABEWATCH? OR Monkey Business
If we knew what color it is that might help.  You would get more than a =
fair share of attention with a screaming yellow boat that had BABEWATCH =
painted in big block letters across 7' of each side.  The girls would be =
mysteriously drawn to the beautiful sound of the supercharger on top of =
an already beautifully sounding 455.  The problem you will have is =
picking which chicks get to go for rides, too many at once might sink =
the boat.  You might even hurt some of their feelings, OH WELL.
Luke

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 05:25:35 -0300
Subject: Re: 307 V8 

     Eh?  Are you trying to say you have TBI on your truck, which is 
     powered by an Olds 307!?  Do tell us more!
     
     Anyways, the 350 intake will fit on 307's up through '85.  From '85 
     on, they're roller cams and use different (7A) heads.  I think both 
     were available in '85, so you'll have to check the heads if it's an 
     '85.  If the heads are 5A's, go for it.  You may need to do a bit of 
     port matching since the 307 heads will probably have smaller intakes 
     than the 350 heads the manifold came from.
     
     Tom L.

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: 307 V8
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    5/12/96 7:54 PM


ok...will a 350 intake fit on a letr model 307?  i need to know this as to 
keep the SMOG legality on my truck...and would the heads also fit...i might 
have to use the heads as some were special to TBI...
                    zack
      ___
     /. .\
    _\_*_/_                     -<Buddha>-
   / /   \ \                   Buddha@itw.com 
   \_\___/_/            HTTP://www2.itw.com/~buddha/
  /___\_/___\ "That which does not kill us makes us stronger"
 *************
     
     

------------------------------

From: Cary Yamamoto <yamamoto@unr.edu>
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 12:46:03 -0300
Subject: battery drain/windows

Went out to start up the '73 88 conv. the other day.  nothing.  It sat for
about 4 weeks since I last started it. The only thing I did during that
time was replace the power window relay.  The old one was completely
inoperable.  You had to hold the points closed to make the windows work!
Anyway, after installing the relay, I noticed that the windows aren't
operated with the key-they can operate anytime.  I suppose this is
designed that way so you can fiddle with the top and the the windows
without having the key "on".  

The fuses aren't blown for the windows since the installation, but I'm
wondering if I'm getting a small short-just enough to drain the battery
over a period of time.  Is these a systematic way to locate a short?

I have a decent ohmeter to check things out.  



Cary Yamamoto                                 University of NV, Reno
Coordinator,                                  Prospective Students/110
Prospective Students                          Reno, NV  89557
                                              (702) 784-4865 
	                                      (702) 784-1852 fax	 

------------------------------

From: JK McCall <jkmccall@clic.net>
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 12:50:26 -0300
Subject: HEI

Hello again, 

Recently did a tuneup (spring) on my 82 Delta 88(less checked the 
timing).  Yesterday I noticed again a problem that I've had before, I 
think that perhaps the weather has something to do with it as when its 
cool and wet the car starts but runs rough right up until its warmed up.

Today I took off the dist cap and removed the rotor only to find that 
the spring weights were very stiff to move.  They should move freely and 
return with the springs right?  Anyways, douced them with WD-40 and 
worked them abit until they freed up.  Is there anything else I should 
do, or just keep an eye on them?

I also noticed that the TACH connection on the coil had a connector 
attached, don't have a tach...  Is there a connection on the wiring 
harness behind the instrument cluster to connect a tach?

Any help would be greatly appreciated...

I know, DO THE TIMING....

JK McCall

------------------------------

From: GUEISEPPI THE BARBER <JJF96@uno.cc.geneseo.edu>
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 14:04:27 -0300
Subject: knock, knock, knockin' on heaven's door!

O.k...   here's a prob...    I have a 48 olds...  was taking it to a 
show and the engine suddenly started knockin.  I stopped the car, got it 
home and that's it.   this knock is loud.                                
             the engine is a 6 cyl. straight, L head, cast iron block 
                    238 cu in
                                                                         
    first, this engine has 64,000 origional miles with a knock...        
I have a 47 engine (identical engine) with compatible casting numbers.   
this 47 engine runs but blows smoke....                                  
i can't afford to have the engine rebuilt by a pro, so i have to do the 
major labor (other than machining).....                                  
   #1   which engine should I rebuild?                                   
   #2   What helpful tips and/or instructions would you give a first 
            time builder?  What should I look for?                       
   #3 is there anyone willing to guide me step by step on the rebuild?   
         (this is my first)


     p.sp.s.  my 47 has 41,000 orig. miles.  it sat (hence it blows 
smoke 

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 12:02:34 -0300
Subject: Re: battery drain/windows 

>Anyway, after installing the relay, I noticed that the windows aren't
>operated with the key-they can operate anytime.  I suppose this is
>designed that way so you can fiddle with the top and the the windows
>without having the key "on".  

If you can raise/lower the top without a key in the ignition, then yes,
you'd probably need power for the windows as well, but this doesn't make
sense from either a power or security standpoint.

>The fuses aren't blown for the windows since the installation, but I'm
>wondering if I'm getting a small short-just enough to drain the battery
>over a period of time.  Is these a systematic way to locate a short?

What does the relay do? Is it supposed to activate when you press a
window switch? That would be news to me; the ones I've had to open up
all ran the window power right through the switch, with no relay, since
the switch controls both directions by reversing polarity as needed,
something that's really tricky to do with a relay circuit.

If the relay activates to turn on power to the window switch, it should
_not_ work at all times because, well, the relay would be hot (closed)
at all times, and that doesn't make sense either. That would be your
power drain right there, the pilot circuit that's holding the relay
contacts closed at all times.

>I have a decent ohmeter to check things out.  

I suggest checking the fusebox first. I think the power windows use a
large (~12 gauge) wire plugged into one of the IGN ports on the fusebox,
possibly pink colored. Perhaps someone moved the power wire from the IGN
port, where it would only get power with the ignition on (engine running)
to one of the BATT or ACC ports, where they could then operate the windows
at _any_ time (BATT port) or simply with the key in the Accessory position
(ACC port). Anyway, try looking for some weird wiring in or near the fusebox.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 12:15:49 -0300
Subject: Re: HEI 

>I also noticed that the TACH connection on the coil had a connector 
>attached, don't have a tach...  Is there a connection on the wiring 
>harness behind the instrument cluster to connect a tach?

An '82 Delta 88 with a tach? I didn't think they even bothered to put
_temperature_ gauges on the Delta 88s back in those days; does the 
owner's manual show a tach?

My guess is that the tach connector is used to deliver the tach signal
to the ECM, without which you get a Check Engine light on the dash and
a Code 12 in diagnostics, although having said that, I have to admit
that my '82 _Cutlass_ (Code A V6) had nothing at all on its TACH connector,
and presumably got its tach input signal via the 4-wire distributor hookup.

So I would guess that the wire you see goes to the ECM, and you won't find
it leading to the back of the dashboard. (You could try disconnecting it
with the engine running and see if you get a Check Engine light...)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Daniel Gulino <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 13:25:31 -0300
Subject: Re: Out for a Drive Today 

At 12:18 PM 5/13/96 -0300, you wrote:
>     Way too much.  I bought my 51 Olds 98 for $2000 and it was running 
>     (licensed and everything).  No rust to speak of except for the fact 
>     that 3 of the 4 fenders were dented.  In fact, I drove it home (200+ 
>     miles) and only used 4 quarts of oil <G>....due to  leaky gaskets, not 
>     internal problems.  
>     
>     Unless it was a convertable, that 88 will be there a long time...


This is what I would have thought.  How do you explain, then, the high prices
for these cars, even mundane four-door sedans, listed in the Old Cars Price
Guide?  Cars in #5 condition (#6 is the worst...essentially just a parts
car) are listed at $1400-1600.  #6 cars are listed at $300-500.


************************************************
Daniel A. Gulino
Associate Professor and Graduate Chairman
Department of Chemical Engineering
Ohio University
Athens, Ohio  45701-2979
(614) 593-1495
(614) 593-0873 (fax)
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://www.ent.ohiou.edu/che/faculty/gulino.html
************************************************

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 06:55:29 -0300
Subject: Re: battery drain/windows 

     If you have an ammeter, pull the fuse and measure across the fuse 
     terminals with everything off.
     
     If you don't have an ammeter, just pull the fuse to the power windows 
     and wait a few days to see if the drain stops.  If the power drain is 
     fixed, you've isolated that circuit.


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: battery drain/windows
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    5/13/96 9:25 AM

     
The fuses aren't blown for the windows since the installation, but I'm 
wondering if I'm getting a small short-just enough to drain the battery 
over a period of time.  Is these a systematic way to locate a short?
     
I have a decent ohmeter to check things out.  
     

------------------------------

From: clark@sh28.dseg.ti.com (Pat Clark 952-3776)
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 14:17:54 -0300
Subject: Oil Pump Drive Rods

	When you pull a distributor out of an engine, is the hex shaped drive
rod designed to stay in the oil pump or come out with the distributor?


          ___              ___        _________
         /   |            /   |      /         \
        /    |           /    |     |   ___    |
       /     |          /     |     |__|   |   |
      /      |         /      |           /   /   
     /       |        /       |          /   /   
    /   /|   |       /   /|   |         /   /
   /   /_|   |__    /   /_|   |__      /   /
  |             |  |             |    /   /
  |______     __|  |______     __|   /   /_____
         |   |            |   |     |          |      Pat Clark
         |___|            |___|     |__________|       69 442
						      400/400

   "Just your average 300+hp garage hogging, gas sucking, money pit"

------------------------------

From: Buddha <buddha@itw.com>
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 14:22:52 -0300
Subject: Re: 307 V8 

At 05.25 05,13,96 -0300, you wrote:
>
>     Eh?  Are you trying to say you have TBI on your truck, which is 
>     powered by an Olds 307!?  Do tell us more!

well, i dont have one...yet...what i want to do is get a 307 block and will
use a 350 intake and heads if need be...the question tis will 87-up 350
heads fit on a 307?i need to use the same heads to match the TBI intake...

>     
>     Anyways, the 350 intake will fit on 307's up through '85.  From '85 
>     on, they're roller cams and use different (7A) heads.  I think both 
>     were available in '85, so you'll have to check the heads if it's an 
>     '85.  If the heads are 5A's, go for it.  You may need to do a bit of 
>     port matching since the 307 heads will probably have smaller intakes 
>     than the 350 heads the manifold came from.
>     
>     Tom L.
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator 
      ___
     /. .\
    _\_*_/_                     -<Buddha>-
   / /   \ \                   Buddha@itw.com
   \_\___/_/            HTTP://www2.itw.com/~buddha/
  /___\_/___\ "That which does not kill us makes us stronger"
 *************

------------------------------

From: peter_teubel@mail.hanks.com
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 15:24:30 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Out for a Drive Today 

        Well, for what its worth, my '51 *IS* a 4-door sedan.
     
        I can't explain the prices listed...they always seemd way above 
actual market conditions, IMHO.  Maybe these people see these prices and think 
they can get top dollar for their iron....I dunno....

Pete
'51 98

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Out for a Drive Today
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at SMTP
Date:    5/13/96 12:38 PM


At 12:18 PM 5/13/96 -0300, you wrote:
>     Way too much.  I bought my 51 Olds 98 for $2000 and it was running 
>     (licensed and everything).  No rust to speak of except for the fact 
>     that 3 of the 4 fenders were dented.  In fact, I drove it home (200+ 
>     miles) and only used 4 quarts of oil <G>....due to  leaky gaskets, not 
>     internal problems.  
>     
>     Unless it was a convertable, that 88 will be there a long time...
     
     
This is what I would have thought.  How do you explain, then, the high prices 
for these cars, even mundane four-door sedans, listed in the Old Cars Price 
Guide?  Cars in #5 condition (#6 is the worst...essentially just a parts
car) are listed at $1400-1600.  #6 cars are listed at $300-500.
     
     
************************************************ 
Daniel A. Gulino
Associate Professor and Graduate Chairman 
Department of Chemical Engineering
Ohio University
Athens, Ohio  45701-2979
(614) 593-1495
(614) 593-0873 (fax)
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://www.ent.ohiou.edu/che/faculty/gulino.html 
************************************************
     
     

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 15:27:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Supergharger Mfg. 

          A number of aftermarket manufacturers currently sell 6-71 
          type blowers for the street.  These units are set up for 
          street applications, including clearances, bearings, and 
          drive gear.  Most of these vendors use a single plane 4 bbl 
          manifold and weld an aluminum plate to the top for mounting 
          the blower.  In this way, they are able to adapt a 
          supercharger to just about any V8.  I'd suggest Blower Drive 
          Service as one vendor I've heard good things about, but 
          there are others as well.  Check ads in Street Rodder for 
          address and phone.
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Supergharger Mfg.
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at OSC-LINK
Date:    5/10/96 6:32 PM


Does anyone know who sill makes a Rootes type supercharger for an Olds big 
block?
          
          
 EXCESSIVE IRON rules the road!
'65 442
'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender
 bryceman@442.com
 www.442.com
          
          
          

------------------------------

From: <EJLEGER@aamc.org>
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 15:27:00 -0300
Subject: knock, knock, knockin' on heaven's door! -Reply 

Ummm, I'm new to the Olds list but I'll give my $.02 to ya....  I'm not sure what type of
engine you have (i.e. what year) but with 60,000+ miles on it, and you just got this
knock, I'd say that something is out of whack with your timing gear (depending on what
year of engine-- like I said, I'm not that familiar with the years and corresponding CID). 
For instance, if you are using a newer engnine, let's say older than 1980 (because I
don't know exactly when), it could be the timing gear coating has just disintegrated--
Buick/Olds put this on to help quiet chain noise).  I think that 60,000 is about when these
gears should be replaced.

I'm just thinking that this may be the problem since your symptoms sound very familiar
with what I had to do with my '84 Cutlass Supreme about 3 years back.  I didn't realize
that the gear was made with that coating (polyporene, or something), and within one
day it just disintegrated completely apart.  The knock started off kinda soft, but then got
a lot worse.  It took me a while to figure out what that plastic stuff was in my oil, and
that stuff is brittle, but hard is hell.  Long story short, I knew that it probably screwed
up the cylinder walls, and probably  so I rebuilt the engine ground up.  I wish now that I
had known about that coating and that the gear is supposed to be replaced at 60,000--
the car had 120,000 on it when it happened.

If you also experienced sluggishness or power problems, I'd say it's definitely
associated with the timing components, and could even be something as simple as a
bent rod.

Joe Leger
ejleger@aamc.org
'84 Olds Cutlass Supreme

>>> GUEISEPPI THE BARBER <JJF96@uno.cc.geneseo.edu> 05/13/96 12:04pm >>>


O.k...   here's a prob...    I have a 48 olds...  was taking it to a  show and the engine
suddenly started knockin.  I stopped the car, got it  home and that's it.   this knock is
loud.                                
             the engine is a 6 cyl. straight, L head, cast iron block 
                    238 cu in
                                                                         
    first, this engine has 64,000 origional miles with a knock...         I have a 47 engine
(identical engine) with compatible casting numbers.    this 47 engine runs but blows
smoke....                                   i can't afford to have the engine rebuilt by a pro, so i
have to do the  major labor (other than machining).....                                  
   #1   which engine should I rebuild?                                   
   #2   What helpful tips and/or instructions would you give a first 
            time builder?  What should I look for?                       
   #3 is there anyone willing to guide me step by step on the rebuild?   
         (this is my first)


     p.sp.s.  my 47 has 41,000 orig. miles.  it sat (hence it blows  smoke 

------------------------------

From: Daniel Gulino <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 14:44:45 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Out for a Drive Today 

At 03:24 PM 5/13/96 -0300, you wrote:
>        Well, for what its worth, my '51 *IS* a 4-door sedan.
>     
>        I can't explain the prices listed...they always seemd way above 
>actual market conditions, IMHO.  Maybe these people see these prices and think 
>they can get top dollar for their iron....I dunno....
>
>Pete
>'51 98


Oh, I'm sure that sellers, myself included, always thing that their cars
are worth more than they really are.  But I would think the Old Cars
would base their prices on actual selling prices.  But come to think
of it, where does Old Cars get the data for their price guide?  

Certainly they're not privy to every transaction that takes place.  I'm
sure that Joe Blow selling his '52 Chevy to Jim Jones out in East Podunk,
Ohio is not going to report this transaction to the Old Cars people.  Old
Cars probably relies on ASKING prices seen in newspapers and selling prices
at public events like auctions, car corrals, and so forth.  

I suppose that Old Cars could survey state title bureaus, departments of
motor vehicles, and so forth, to see what selling prices are reported as
vehicles change hands.  But this would be an enormous effort.

I don't know.


************************************************
Daniel A. Gulino
Associate Professor and Graduate Chairman
Department of Chemical Engineering
Ohio University
Athens, Ohio  45701-2979
(614) 593-1495
(614) 593-0873 (fax)
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://www.ent.ohiou.edu/che/faculty/gulino.html
************************************************

------------------------------

From: Daniel Gulino <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 14:47:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Out for a Drive Today 

At 03:24 PM 5/13/96 -0300, you wrote:
>        Well, for what its worth, my '51 *IS* a 4-door sedan.
>     
>        I can't explain the prices listed...they always seemd way above 
>actual market conditions, IMHO.  Maybe these people see these prices and think 
>they can get top dollar for their iron....I dunno....
>
>Pete
>'51 98

By the way, I didn't mean to impugn the good name of your car by calling
4-door cars "mundane."  It's just that this body style is always the lowest
priced one in the Old Cars Price Guide.


************************************************
Daniel A. Gulino
Associate Professor and Graduate Chairman
Department of Chemical Engineering
Ohio University
Athens, Ohio  45701-2979
(614) 593-1495
(614) 593-0873 (fax)
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://www.ent.ohiou.edu/che/faculty/gulino.html
************************************************

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 15:07:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Restoration Stuff 

In a message dated 96-05-12 20:13:34 EDT, you write:

>Does anyone know what finish the (gowdawfully poor designed) hood hinges 
>on a '68 should be? The underhood where they attach is black, so I 
>suppose the hinges could be too, or body color (doubtful), cast 
>gray/natural, cad-plated, I dunno. I can't tell with mine what they used to 
>be. Ideas? 

I's like to know what the stuff used on hood hinges is too.  It doesn't look
or feel like paint but some kind of antirust coating.  NOS or good original
hood hinges on mid '60's to early '70's appear dark grey, almost black and
somewhat rough, like a finger nail board the ladies use on the finest side.

Bob Handren
'67 W-30 Modified
'70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 15:07:14 -0300
Subject: Re: SX 

In a message dated 96-05-12 17:13:30 EDT, you write:

>The W-32 package also 
>comes with the W-25 OAI system?  Is all of this correct people?
>
>

Nope, only the engine. OAI hood was available as an option on virtually any
V-8 Cutlass based model.

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 15:07:08 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: misc. stuffs 

In a message dated 96-05-10 16:38:54 EDT, you write:

>  The trace amounts (antifreeze) that I can't catch do get washed into the 
>     environment, but with plenty of water.
>     

In a previous life I was an Environment, Safety & Health Manager for a group
working for a US Department of Energy laboratory.

We used thousands (yes thousands) of gallons of ethylene glycol (auto
anti-freeze) to cool laser heads.  One night the cooling system sprung a leak
and dumped hundreds of gallons into the earth.

I was amazed to learn that ethylene glycol is not considered a "dangerous"
chemical versus the environment, and this was in California where used engine
oil is considered a hazardous waste (the only state to view it as such unless
some others have jumped on that bandwagon in the last 5 years).

The comment made on this list about certain bacteria loving the stuff must be
true.  There was no cleanup required.

Remember, this stuff is otherwise poisonous.  Dogs for instance find it sweet
but it is deadly and the death is slow.  Avoid doing anything that would
allow it to be ingested such as dumping on land where folks use wells for
drinking water or where it can pool and animals could drink it.

Bob Handren
'67 W-30 Modified
'70 SX Convertible

------------------------------

From: Bob0Barry@aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 15:12:57 -0300
Subject: Re: Olsmobubble 

In a message dated 96-05-13 11:10:01 EDT, you write:

>>Any suggestions on a name for the
>>craft would be greatly appreciated.

H2/O ? (One of those *big* Hurst/OIds decals, with the "2" in little
subscript...)

------------------------------

From: Bob0Barry@aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 15:13:18 -0300
Subject: Re: 307 V8 

In a message dated 96-05-13 13:27:59 EDT, you write:

>use a 350 intake and heads if need be...the question tis will 87-up 350
>heads fit on a 307?i need to use the same heads to match the TBI intake...

Uh, oh, methinks he's talking about that *other*, inferior, small-block that
GM used, also displaced 5.0 or 5.7 liters like the proper Olds small-block.
Now who made that thing, let me think...

Anyway, if you have one of those misfits with TBI, forget it, you can't use
it on the real small-block.

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348>
Date: Mon, 13 May 1996 15:35:07 -0300
Subject: Confused re. 5-liter V-8s

I'm going to look at the '85 Cutlass I mentioned the other day, probably 
tonight. My brother said over the phone that the owner told him it had a 
"305" V-8. 

Now, I'm confused. I know the Cutlass 2-door had a 307 that is the Olds 
Rocket design. I also know that the dreaded Ch*vy v-8 is, in fact, 305 
cubic inches, and I have heard these were also installed in some of these 
cars, or at least in 4-doors. What was the pattern and/or logic which GM 
used in this? Could this '85 Cutlass 2-door indeed have a Ch*vy 305? Or 
does the owner not know what he's talking about? 

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #174
********************************

