

oldsmobile-digest          Monday, 11 March 1996       Volume 01 : Number 115


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 15:09:21 -0400
Subject: [none]

8 with 3-on-the-tree.  Lots of fun. Particularly when I put
the J-2 carbs on an Offy manifold on top of a Starfire 394.  Blew off my
share of Chevys, Fords, etc.

I also went through a few generators too.  Look for the solder melted and
deposited in a nice little ring just in front of the rear bearing.

Every time this happende to me, it was the voltage regulator stuck on max.  I
suspect your voltage regulator is bad whether it is a replacement or not.

Bob Handren
'67 442 W-30 modified
'70 Cutlass SX convert

------------------------------

From: "Dal Allan" <dal_allan@mcimail.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 18:26:27 -0400
Subject: re:Transmission_Question

Hi Bruce,

The symptoms are exactly the same as happened on our 307-powered wagon with
a TH-200R4. There is an electric solenoid in the transmission which can
stick, and it affects downshifting. I was told the transmission stays in
high gear and the motor is leaned out by the computer, hence the pinging.
Mine was an occasional, not a regular problem and happened most often after
a long run at highway speeds.

The cure is to replace the solenoid. Get yourself a shop manual for your
model and go looking through the transmission description. I found the
figures to be more helpful than the text.

If the car had sat a long time with only occasional use, this problem might
go away by itself. If it is happening all the time and is repeatable on cue
then yours may be shot.

Dal

Network & Systems Administrator
LDM Technologies, Inc.
Troy, MI 48084

e-mail:  bdbrumm@ix.netcom.com
  home:  Auburn Hills, MI

------------------------------

From: Robert Yasczak <VJTD@grove.iup.edu>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 23:10:17 -0400
Subject: transmission problem

	My 1985 cutlass supreme has the 3.8 v6 and th-200C three speed.  Back
in December I lost reverse, so I found a replacement in a local paper for
$100. Since then I have had the transmission installed and am having problems
with this one as well.  It doesn't seem to want to shift into second gear, the
only way that it will shift is if you let off of the gas or just gradually
apply the gas until it gets up to speed, then it is fine.  The transmission
was said to be rebuilt about 1 year before I bought it.  I am currently just
putting up with the problem, it is pretty anoying since I can't make any quick
starts like I used to be able to.  If this is a major problem that can't be
repaired easily or costs a lot, I may sell the car.  I have been looking at a
Cutlass with T-tops and a v8, which is really what I want any way this may be
a prime time to do so.  Thanks for an help that can be given in advance. 
				
			Robb Yasczak            1985 Cutlass Supreme 
			vjtd@grove.iup.edu	1976 442
(455)
                                                1969 442
                                                1969 Cutlass S

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 15:18:41 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: break-in

     I'm debating whether I want forged pistons (may want to play around
     with nitrous, may not) when I get around to rebulding my 307 in a few
     years (starting to collect parts and such now).  I'm kind of concerned
     with the extra piston-to-wall clearance and piston slap.

     How much of a difference in clearance are we talking between a stocker
     and a performance engine?  And how loud is the piston slap?
     Annoyingly loud?

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: break-in Author:
oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET Date:    3/8/96 5:48 PM


Chris if you get the proper ring end gap and piston to wall clearance the
break in required will be next to nill. The cam break in should suffice the
entire engine. Most people put in a piston to wall clearance closer to that
of a stocker instead of a performance engine and then require  a longer
break in. Seeting the pistons up looser will also allow the engine to rev
quicker, you can really feel the difference.




------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 15:18:38 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Washer pump

     Thanks, but I don't think that's it.  I'm losing washer fluid too, I
     think from the pump.  That seems to tell me it is pumping, or trying
     too.  The stuff that gurgles out is kind of foamy too, so I suspect
     either the bad seals or an air leak of some type.  Anyways, my fluid
     is going somewhere, but not to my window.  I checked all the lines and
     the intake screen, they seem good.

     Also, the fluid leaves nice soap-scum-marks so you can tell where it's
     leaking from too.

     Guess I'll just take it apart and see what I can see. . .  try the
     free things first y'know.  Guess I can't break it any more.

     Thanks all!


______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Re: Washer pump Author:
oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET Date:    3/9/96 4:18 PM


In a message dated 96-03-09 07:40:42 EST, you write:

>>So, before you rebuild the pump, check to make sure you can actually pump
>>fluid out of the resevoir. Then rebuild it, since it is so cheap.
>
>     One problem I've had involves the little plastic "crankshaft/gear
>thingy!" inside the wiper motor.  The thing that actually drives the pump
>piston.  I've seen quite a few of these broken out, so that the hydraulics
>of the pump assy can be perfect, but the piston wont even move.  The wiper
>motor runs, but the pump just clicks, with no squirt.

Right, remove those four screws, take off the cover and diaphram, and see if
that little pump is going up and down before you go out and buy the rebuild
kit. For that matter, just clean up your little rubber diaphrams and see if
they work better after. Always better to try the free things first.


------------------------------

From: Rocketeer <bparker@nmsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 01:09:06 -0400
Subject: Air Cleaner

Anyone out there need an Air Cleaner for a '66 - '67 442 (this is the
one for automatics).

Boyd

------------------------------

From: david.chontofalsky@mcmail.vanderbilt.edu
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 08:46:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Transmission Question

Bruce D. Brumm
Network & Systems Administrator
LDM Technologies, Inc.
Troy, MI 48084

e-mail:  bdbrumm@ix.netcom.com
  home:  Auburn Hills, MI


Bruce , Is the downshift cable adjusted correctly or is is even hooked up??
A real stupid question but relivent,  Do you have or recently installed real
thick floor mats?  We had this customer (back in those days) that insisted on
putting in 2 sets of thick floor mats and when the gas pedal was mashed, it
never actuated the down shift detent cable enough to cause the transmission to
downshi ft.

How you  adjust those cables is very simple:
1.  take a screwdriver and push the half moon  plate in and move the little
housing all the way in.
2. go inside the car and push the gas pedal al the way to the floor (motot NOT
running) this adjusts the mechanism to WOT position.

Drive car.  Should down shift.  If not you most likely have a stuck valve in
the valve body of the cable is broken/unattached. David CORVAIR104@aol.com
First check

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 10:23:55 -0400
Subject: Re: 301 Turbo vs 403 Olds

          Just so everyone remembers the obvious, the 403 in the Trans
          Am is an Oldsmobile motor, while the 301 is a Pontiac motor.
          None of the parts interchange (with the exception of the
          distributor cap and rotor), so don't even think about the
          turbo parts.

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: map@usa.net
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 10:40:29 -0400
Subject: Re: '65 Wheels

I have a '65 Cutlass Convertible that I am restoring.  It has Ralley/Sport I
wheels on it now.  I understand that these were used in '66, not '65. The
sales literature and catalogs show wire wheel covers and flat wheel covers as
options in '65.  I think there was one other "sport" option, but cannot find
info on it.

I would like info on the options that year and a place to find the wire wheel
covers and "sport" options.

Thanks,
Rich
map@usa.net

------------------------------

From: "wesf@hpdmm12.boi.hp.com" <wesf@hpdmm12.boi.hp.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 11:12:33 -0400
Subject: Re:  A Little Different, Ltd.

>Try "A Little Different, Ltd. in West Palm Beach, FL.  They used
>to have them at about $200 each...  Their phone # is 407/640-4135.

>This man is rude and an opinionated @#$@#$@$.

Of course, aren't we all???  (at least opinionated)

>I had a very BAD
>experience with him.  I purchased a few things from him all were
>fine except the decals, the quality was exceptionally POOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>I think i'd rather sit with an exacto knife and blank decal stock
>and make my own as to purchase these again from him.  $1,100 was
>entirely too much to pay for the quality decals he is selling.

Yikes!  I wonder if this is the same fellow that used to run it
years ago.  I knew that the business was looking for a new owner
at one time.  Maybe this is new management.  The decal set that
I bought was all die-cut, and came on backing paper, carefully
wrapped, etc.  Every piece was just fine.  All other parts were
excellent.  I'm sorry to hear that the place has gone downhill.
When I was dealing with them, they were very helpful and courteous.
I bought lots of stuff from them...

They were the only folks that I knew that carried a pretty full
selection of H/O parts.

Wes Fujii

------------------------------

From: "wesf@hpdmm12.boi.hp.com" <wesf@hpdmm12.boi.hp.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 11:35:38 -0400
Subject: Re: 403 Turbo

>  Speaking of Trans Am's, Here's a perplexing question that may
>have no pleasant answer, yet may provoke lots of dreaming,
>(I think I know the answer, but I'll shoot it through here
>anyway...)
>  Many of the Trans Am's of that era had 403's in 'em.  Many
>of the Trans Am's had Turbo in 'em.  (You see where I'm going
>with this one already.....!!)
>  Anyone ever heard of a Trans Am with a 403 Turbo???
>Pppplleeaaasseee!!!___  :)  I've never seen or heard of such
>a critter, but it only seems logical that they'd have at least
>tried it...

No.  The 301 Turbo was an attempt to gain more fuel economy
(smaller engine) while still retaining reasonable power.  Putting
the turbo on the 403 would not be going in that direction.  The
years of the 403 were before the years of the turbo, so they
weren't offered in the same time period, I believe.  Seems to me
that the turbos were on the '80 and '81 cars, and the last 403 was
on the '79s.

Wes Fujii

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 11:23:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Washer pump

>     Thanks, but I don't think that's it.  I'm losing washer fluid too, I
>     think from the pump.  That seems to tell me it is pumping, or trying
>     too.  The stuff that gurgles out is kind of foamy too, so I suspect
>     either the bad seals or an air leak of some type.

I get the feeling that _nobody_ saw my last post? Hello? I'm typing this
at 9:23 Monday morning... if you (the collective you) aren't too busy
when reading this, please forward a note to me (that is, _forward_ to
_me_, not a _reply_ to the _list_) saying that you saw it.

Anyway, on the theory that this will pop up in public sooner or later,
let me just say that I think the original poster is complaining about
a new-design electric-motor washer pump, but all the followups are
diagnosing the old-design reciprocating pump instead. Do I have that
right?

If my previous post about fixing the electric pump has disappeared for
good, I'll repost it. (Oh, heck, I'll try Emailing that one directly
to the poster and see if _that_ will work... sigh...)
- --
Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Doug Ahern <doug@cobra.cosmic.uga.edu>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 12:24:35 -0400
Subject: 1964 Bruce McLaren Olds powered sportscar/Nassau Speed Weeks

I found an article that befiefly mentions an Olds powered sports car
driven by Bruce McLaren at the 1964 Nassau Speed Weeks.  This was
probably an early can-am style race car, open top, rear engined,
and full fairings over all 4 wheels.  Roger Penske won the 250 miler
in a chevy powered race car, the olds came in 2nd.  the field was
also made up of aston martins, 4.9 liter ferraris, jags, masseratis.
The article was about AJ Foyt driving a mopar hemi powered car,
he came in 2nd in the 100 miler.

I wonder if this was a 330 block engine or a 394.  my guess is it was
a 394,  there was a lot of dragracing hi-po parts for the 394 (hilborn
fule injection, cams, etc), and the 330 was new and unproven.  Of course,
it could have been a 215, but I doubt that.

Anyone have an info on this??

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 12:37:07 -0400
Subject: Re[3]: break-in

A basic question about cylinder clearances here,

According to the dial bore guage, the out of roundness on my 455 is 1/2
(.0005"), measuring parallel and perpendicular to the cam, top, middle and
bottom of cylinder.  This out of roundness is consistant measuring down the
bore at the same point in perspective with the cam.  No machining has been
done yet. I plan to hone them to put a slight cross hatch and break the glaze
a bit.

The piston to wall clearence varies from 3 to 5 (1000's) among the cylinders.
I plan to run forged pistons, with normal aspiration.

Any problems seen here?  Maybe make the piston to wall clearance consistant
among all cylinders?

Mondello's catalog covers some of this, but doesn't have the space for more
details.  Any good books on the details?  Maybe even ch*vy books?

David Brown
dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu    (312) 702-9157
"Oldsmobile - powerful roadsters with big V8s"

------------------------------

From: Piotr Trzeciak <pt@cut4.mech.pk.edu.pl>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 12:55:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Owners Registry

On Fri, 8 Mar 1996, Mike Frederick wrote:

> >> Greetings Oldsmophiles,
> >> I made some changes to the Owners Registry today. It looks pretty good on
 > > > > > Running WfW 3.11, Netscape 2.0 (release, NOT beta), 800x640 SVGA, >
the page was not blank however the header is not centered and I could > only
see the "1960 - 1963" link.

I got the same result with SUN SPARCstation 5 under Solaris 2.4 with
Netscape 2.0.

					greetings

					Piotr

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 12:58:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: break-in

The TRW forged pistons in my 455 give a slight slap noise on startup.  It
goes away as the engine warms up.  It sounds like a mild lifter clicking at
worst.  And I dump about 225 hp of NO2

Bob Handren
'67 442 W30 modified
'70 Cutlass SX Conv

------------------------------

From: urbanch@magi.com (Chris Urban)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 13:20:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: break-in

No piston slap is not annoyingly loud, if it is your engine won't run too
long.Piston to wall clearance varies between piston manufacturers. Stock
pistons are very tight say 1-3 thou. vs perf of say 5-? thou. Different
engines aas well require different clearances. When you buy your pistons the
instructions will be in the box as to how much clearance you will need for
your application. As for forged pistons if your building anything that you
plan on driving the least bit aggresively by forged, cast pistons just don't
hold up to high RPM well, nor do they like high cylinder pressure like you
would get with a high perf engine.

>
>     I'm debating whether I want forged pistons (may want to play around
>     with nitrous, may not) when I get around to rebulding my 307 in a few
>     years (starting to collect parts and such now).  I'm kind of concerned
>     with the extra piston-to-wall clearance and piston slap.
>
>     How much of a difference in clearance are we talking between a stocker
>     and a performance engine?  And how loud is the piston slap?
>     Annoyingly loud?
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
>Subject: Re: break-in
>Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
>Date:    3/8/96 5:48 PM
>
>
>Chris if you get the proper ring end gap and piston to wall clearance the
>break in required will be next to nill. The cam break in should suffice the
>entire engine. Most people put in a piston to wall clearance closer to that
>of a stocker instead of a performance engine and then require  a longer
>break in. Seeting the pistons up looser will also allow the engine to rev
>quicker, you can really feel the difference.
>
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: david.chontofalsky@mcmail.vanderbilt.edu
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 13:10:02 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: A Little Different, Ltd.

>Try "A Little Different, Ltd. in West Palm Beach, FL.  They used
>to have them at about $200 each...  Their phone # is 407/640-4135.

>This man is rude and an opinionated @#$@#$@$.

Of course, aren't we all???  (at least opinionated)

>I had a very BAD
>experience with him.  I purchased a few things from him all were
>fine except the decals, the quality was exceptionally POOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>I think i'd rather sit with an exacto knife and blank decal stock
>and make my own as to purchase these again from him.  $1,100 was
>entirely too much to pay for the quality decals he is selling.

Yikes!  I wonder if this is the same fellow that used to run it
years ago.  I knew that the business was looking for a new owner
at one time.  Maybe this is new management.  The decal set that
I bought was all die-cut, and came on backing paper, carefully
wrapped, etc.  Every piece was just fine.  All other parts were
excellent.  I'm sorry to hear that the place has gone downhill.
When I was dealing with them, they were very helpful and courteous.
I bought lots of stuff from them...

They were the only folks that I knew that carried a pretty full
selection of H/O parts.

Wes Fujii

Wes,
When I dealt with them it was about 3 years ago, and yes it was when they were
looking for a new owner.
David

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 13:36:04 -0400
Subject: Thanks, Everyone... [long]

Okay, I seem to be back on the air again, so thanks everyone and you
can stop sending me acknowledgements now. (Jeez, I wish my customers
would follow directions that well!)

As for ObligOldsContent, I'll give a status report here of the fixing
up of the '82 Cutlass for, well, whoever ends up buying it. I might
as well post this here in order to avoid laying a guilt trip on any
one potential buyer in the pecking order (you know who you are) by
Emailing it to them while they were possibly having second thoughts
about buying it (e.g. sobered up, stock market crashed, wife found
out about it, etc.).

Swapped back in the original factory stereo a week ago and marveled
at how nice it sounded; apparently the CB/stereo unit I had been
using has a smaller amplifier, perhaps due to space problems or
overheating hazard. Fine. But unfortunately this past weekend's
work was not as easy...

Got back to parents' house, where car is currently stored, with a
trunk full of supplies and new parts. Hopped in and twisted the key:
DUH-RUH-Ruh... ruh...  *click-click-click*... Oh, blast. Battery dead.
Jump start car, move it around a little bit, sounds very happy once
again. Play radio, warm up heater, park car in front for some last
pictures. Climb in back seat to photograph dashboard and accessories
before removing couple of items. Decide to start car so that all the
overhead LEDs and assorted displays are nicely lit for photograph.

DUH-RUH-Ruh... ruh...  *click-click-click*...

D'ohhh!!! Discover that mother has gone shopping in her car, and my new
one cannot jump start due to stupidly-positioned A/C line right over top
of positive battery terminal. Cool heels until mother returns.

Jump start again, back car into garage, complete oil change, front end
lube (yes, didn't forget upper ball joints) and new air filter, all
uneventfully.

Getting dark now. Discover that %^$&@ droplight does not work due to
ten-year-old power cord which picks tonight to break its black wire
at base of handle. Disassemble droplight, discard broken end of cable,
reconnect wiring, reassemble, test power socket in handle with circuit
tester, and discover that idiot electrician has apparently wired the
garage backwards. Have moment of insight, climb ladder and test overhead
outlet for droplight. Discover that idiot in question is the one currently
trying to rewire his own droplight. Some re-rewiring of droplight is
performed.

Headlight flasher unit and radar detector behind grille are removed without
damage to car, but minus several patches of skin. Brief trip up to house
for bandages.

Hop inside car and remove overhead T-top panels. Moment of great relief
when we find that we had the presence of mind back in 1989 to write out
a wiring diagram on a scrap of paper and stick it in with the circuitry.
Removal of last screw triggers avalanche of plastic housings and great
multitude of wires going in seventeen different directions, and bonk on
the head from falling maplight. Make mental note to sell next car _with_
whatever lunatic accessories I installed during ownership.

Pause for photo session showing avalanche of parts, on theory that no
one will believe it later, otherwise. Idle thoughts about what sort of
caption to give photo when it appears on Bryce's web page ("Note to new
purchaser: Never remove overhead panels."). New illuminated rockers are
installed in overhead console to replace those with burned-out lamps.
Spare wire is found to reroute accessory switch output, used previously
for overhead radar control panel, down "A" pillar to underdash location
for whatever next purchaser decides to use it for.

Discover that overhead panels are made of cheesiest plastic ever seen
on GM car. Reinstallation and alignment battle continues into evening,
after which final testing reveals that overhead console ground is not
working, so switches work but their pilot lamps don't light. Dismantle
overhead panels yet again, manage to avoid falling maplight this time,
but outside temperatures are plummeting and we decide to pack it in for
the evening.

So all that remains is to fix the ground wire for the overhead accessories,
remove a couple of the cellphone components and the phone wiring harness
leading to the under-backseat area. For those of you who mentioned putting
a phone in it, yes, I have left the antenna on the back glass for your reuse.

We're expecting warmer weather this week so the wrapup shouldn't take much
longer... I hope!
- --
Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 14:04:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Washer pump

[Repost of my message from last Friday which went nowhere. This is just FYI,
y'all; I sent it to Tom via E-mail and he confirms that he does indeed have
an electric washer pump and not the old reciprocating type. -- ACG]

>To: oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@dlogics.com>
>Subject: Re: Washer pump
>
>>     Can anyone remember what the conclusion was?  The washer pump on my
>>     '84 H/O don't work.  It spins and sort of half-hartedly gurgles out
>>     fluid.  I've checked all the lines, and now I'm assuming it's the
>>     pump.  The car was garaged winters and only driven during nice weather
>>     by the previous owner, so the pump probably never got used and the
>>     seals dried out.
>
>Okay, I think all the followups to this so far were based on the assumption
>that you were talking about the good old reciprocating pump, which reliably
>fails to go SQUIRT...SQUIRT...SQUIRT...SQUIRT... whenever you curse and
>push the washer button as hard as you can, after which you spend a few bucks
>on a top kit for the little white plastic pump cylinder and O-ring seals.
>
>What I _think_ you have is the newer electric pump, yes? The one that fails
>to go SQUOOOOOOOOSH for as long as you hold the button down, right? This is
>a little electric motor built into the housing (cover) of the wiper motor.
>It has a rotary vane on the end of its shaft which draws the liquid in one
>port and pushes it out the other in a continuous flow. It sounds like your
>motor shaft has worn and is chattering in its "bearings", such as they are,
>and only running about half-speed.
>
>>     Is there a fix besides a new one?  Can I get just the pump or is it
>>     integral to the rest of the wiper motor?
>
>Yes, you can get the pump by itself; in fact, I am successfully putting off
>ordering one for my father-in-law's '84 Regal which has your same problem.
>The pump was completely dead at first, I opened it up (unplug side harness,
>remove three hex-head screws, do _not_ drop screws down between wheel well
>and firewall, remove cover and pump, remove retainer clip from pump, slide
>pump out of cover), pried open the motor housing clips which held the end
>of the pump and motor on, freed everything up, lightly oiled it and got it
>going again. Reassembled the whole mess and it ran perfectly for an entire,
>what, week and a half. The cuts on my hand had almost healed by then. Now
>it's into operating-but-squealing mode, like yours, and I am not going to
>rebuild it again. Heck, the crimp-together motor casing wasn't supposed to
>be opened up once, let alone twice...
>
>>     I'm thinking of trying some silicone spray into the inlet while
>>     pumping, sound feasable to anyone?
>
>Nope. I don't believe it will come anywhere near the offending bearings.
>I think your best bet, assuming we're talking electric motor here, is to
>swap it for another one, either recent-junkyard or brand-new.
>
>>     BTW, sorry about the earlier post about the 403's windowed webs and
>>     the crank.  I was way off base. . .  Is it Friday yet?
>
>Why, yes, it is. You can spend the weekend working on your washer pump!
>
- --
Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 14:30:55 -0400
Subject: Re: 1964 Bruce McLaren Olds powered sportscar/Nassau Speed W

          I found an article that befiefly mentions an Olds powered
          sports car driven by Bruce McLaren at the 1964 Nassau Speed
          Weeks......


          The book "Chaparral Race Cars"  shows photos of one of the
          original Chaparral 2A cars with a 215 Olds motor.  Jim Hall
          apparently preferred the small block Chevy, but his partner
          Hal Sharp used the 215.  Others also used the 215 during
          that time frame.

          As an interesting aside, the latest issue of Hemmings has
          one of the 1967 McKee Can-Am cars for sale.  This car was
          powered by an injected aluminum block 455 Olds motor, later
          turbocharged as well.  A cover story in Hot Rod Magazine in
          the late 60s gave quite a bit of detail (considerably more
          than the 1.5 pages on the Aurora engin in the April issue).
          I'll try to find out the exact issue for those interested.
          The turbo version on the cover of HRM looked just like the
          engine identified on the REO Museum link on the web page as
          a "turbocharged marine engine".  The McKee car for sale was
          campaigned by the Smothers Brothers Racing Team (yes, Tom
          and Dick) who also sponsored a series of 442 drag cars in
          the late 60s.  If anyone's interested, the Can-Am car is for
          sale for only $125,000.

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 15:07:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Stupid Suspension Question

Not dumb.  It's adjusted by turning the tie rod ends - this will upset the
alignment.

The place that did the alignment should have done centered the steering
wheel.  Before they adjusted the tie rods for toe in/toe out they should
have placed a steering wheel holding device under the steering wheel to
hold in a centered position.

You might want to make them do it again - they goofed!

David Brown
dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu    (312) 702-9157
"Oldsmobile - powerful roadsters with big V8s"

______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Stupid Suspension Question Author:
oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at Interlink Date:    3/9/96 10:46 AM


Hey Gang,

Got a dumb question: Have any of you ever tried to center your steering
wheel yourself?  I had a front-end alignment but neglected to have the wheel
centered.  The alignment's fine, so in reading my Service Manual, I figured
I'd give it a shot.  Already checked that the steering wheel itself is
properly centered on the steering shaft up at the column.  Is it possible to
do without affecting the alignment since it's all done at the sterring box?
Any and all advice/warnings/slaps upside the head would be appreciated!
Thanks again...


- -Gregg, the '67 Toro guy

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #115
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