
oldsmobile-digest           Tuesday, 21 May 1996        Volume 01 : Number 181


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: isagil <isagil@CAM.ORG>
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 18:32:06 -0300
Subject: The heat is on

HI!

Anybody out there ever tried to run an engine without a thermostat? I 
can't find a 160 F thermostat for my car, so I thought I could just let 
the coolant go throught the radiator all the time. One thing that worries 
me is that those thermostats restrict coolant flow (compared with an 
empty thermostat housing...) to the radiator, so that the coolant stays 
longer in the radiator (?) and gets cooler. If I skip the thermostat, 
will the coolant run too fast and stay hot once it's out of the radiator? 
I'm sure anyway the engine will manage the stay hot (it's a 472 
C*dill*c), even without a thermostat.

Any thoughts?

Gilles <isagil@cam.org>

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 15:51:35 -0300
Subject: Re: Perfect Timing Dept., Sparkplug Division 

...ACDelco (guess they've dropped the hyphen from their name to save 
weight) RapidFire spark plugs....
        ^^^^^^^^^
        Apparently those pesky spaces are the next thing to go.

... a cover letter signed by assorted race car drivers, a spiffy 
little mini-bumper sticker reading "ACDelco RapidFires", and a coupon 
that I can mail in with my RapidFire proof of purchase to get a free 
coffee mug with a big ACDelco logo on it. 

        I'd heard that GM has sold off the AC-Delco division (hence 
        the ACDelco) in an attempt to "get back to its core business". 
        Obviously the new owners firmly believe in the powers of 
        positive marketing, not to mention the performance benefits of 
        eliminating excess punctuation.  (Perhaps capital letters are 
        next?)
        
        You may notice the new ACDelco ads touting their racing 
        heritage, engine controller technology, etc.  Just today, I 
        say an ACDelco add which featured a Land Rover (?!), a 
        decidedly non-GM car (OK, OK, so it uses the former BOP 
        aluminum 215...)  None of these ads mention GM nor is the GM 
        logo used anymore.
        
        This is apparently a trend at GM.  They sold off the Detroit 
        Diesel Allison division to Roger Penske a few years ago, and a 
        recent article in Fortune magazine indicated that GM was 
        planning to sell off most of its non-car and truck 
        manufacturing operations, namely the Delphi parts division, 
        EDS (maybe Ross Perot will buy it back), and Hughes Aircraft.
        
        Joe Padavano
        jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
        
        66 442
        68 W-30
        69 H/O
        70 W-30

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 15:57:10 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Q's 

> Q3 - What is the difference between an Alternator and a Generator?  
> How can you visually tell the difference?
          <snip>
Physically, there is little visual difference between them except that 
the alternator's diodes are often visable on the rear of the housing.  
They resemble beer caps: round, gold or silver, pressed into place.
          
          Uhhh... I always thought generators were significantly 
          longer than alternators, about the size and shape of an old 
          axial (A4) style air conditioning compressor, while the 
          alternator is shaped more like the newer radial (R6) A/C 
          units.  Also, aren't generators typically painted steel, 
          while alternators are bare aluminum?
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: David Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Sat, 18 May 1996 15:31:38 -0300
Subject: Spark plugs

At 12:35 PM 5/21/96 -0300, you wrote:
 with favorable comparisons against regular
>plugs, platinum plugs and -- just to be thorough -- SplitFires  :-),
>a cover letter signed by assorted race car drivers, a spiffy little
>mini-bumper sticker reading "ACDelco RapidFires",
>So maybe I'll try a little unscientific test here: RapidFires in one
>car, regular AC-Delco plugs in the other. Maybe even swap the sets of
>plugs between cars once or twice over the course of a month or so
>(fortunately it's a breeze to change plugs on a MoPar 2.5L) just
>see if there's noticeable differences. This might be interesting!

I saw a TV commercial yesterday for SplitFires, it said they "GUARANTEED an
improvment in performance and fuel economy".  Interesting...
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

 "I was put on this earth to accomplish a certain number of things;
    right now I'm so far behind, I'll never die"  --Calvin

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 14:35:06 -0300
Subject: Re: The heat is on 

>Anybody out there ever tried to run an engine without a thermostat? I 
>can't find a 160 F thermostat for my car, so I thought I could just let 
>the coolant go throught the radiator all the time.

Not exactly. The engine will run no hotter without a thermostat (well,
not measurably so, anyway), but may run cooler than designed if the
cooling system is in good shape otherwise. This will impact on emissions
and probably other stuff as well (e.g. temperature-activated vacuum
switches for various things).

>One thing that worries 
>me is that those thermostats restrict coolant flow (compared with an 
>empty thermostat housing...) to the radiator, so that the coolant stays 
>longer in the radiator (?) and gets cooler. If I skip the thermostat, 
>will the coolant run too fast and stay hot once it's out of the radiator? 

I don't think so. The flow through the radiator hoses may be fairly quick,
since it's a narrow passage, but when it opens out to all the little tubes
through the radiator core, I don't think the total flow time through the
core would go down all that much.

What year is this car? Thermostats shouldn't be too hard to find, even if
you have to order from someplace like J.C. Whitney.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: David Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Sat, 18 May 1996 15:27:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Time to Dump?

At 06:23 PM 5/21/96 -0300, you wrote:
 Why 
>not try an Olds ad? Who around here can claim, let's say, more than 300 
>000 miles (or 500 000 kms) on their car? Post!
>

Well, my 69 Cutlass doesn't have 300,000 miles, but it is quickly
approaching the 200,000 mile mark; I think it's got about 198,000 right now.
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

 "I was put on this earth to accomplish a certain number of things;
    right now I'm so far behind, I'll never die"  --Calvin

------------------------------

From: SG Hartfelder <stanh@compusmart.ab.ca>
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 22:07:54 -0300
Subject: Q's 

I'm sure you guys will think these questions to be dumb but I'm just
learning and although they are basic I'd like read your answers.

Q1 - I think the 'EI' in HEI stand for Electronic Ingnition but what does
the 'H' stand for?

Q2 - Where did the the term 'HOT ROD' come from?

Q3 - What is the difference between an Alternator and a Generator?  How can
you visually tell the difference?

Your answers are appreciated.


***************
S.G. Hartfelder     stanh@compusmart.ab.ca     Edmonton, AB  CANADA
                    Owner:     '38 Oldsmobile Street Rod
               Pictures at:     http://www.cjnetworks.com/olds/hartfelder.html
***************

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 22:32:25 -0300
Subject: Re: Time to Dump? 

Joanne -

I guess what it comes down to is:

How much to you like this car?

and

How much are you willing to spend to replace it?

and

What are you going to end up with (problem wise) if you would replace it?

Of course, we are all assuming that if you would decide to replace it, the
replacement would have to be another Olds, right?

Also, we should have a little more information here.  Is it a "base" Supreme?
Or is it a Salon or a Brougham.  What are the miles?  Does the car have a
minimum of equipment or is it loaded?  

Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 22:32:17 -0300
Subject: Re: am-fm stereo radio installation 

In a message dated 96-05-19 01:29:29 EDT, you write:

>dear Paul
>  thanks for your reply. Your system is the same as mine
> i have removed the glovebox and found the bracket but 
>for some reason i cannot get it to fit. either the glove box 
>door wont shut or i cannot reinstall the glovebox it self.
>the bracket in mine doesnt have any predrilled holes. I do 
>appreciate your response and will continue to try make it fit.
>my shop manual doesnt give any diagram but does give a micro
>description of installation and removal. It seems as if the cutlasses
>just did not have enough room. Again thanks.
>                               
>Chuck
>
>

These radios were available as factory installed equipment, so there must be
room to install it.  If there isn't room we'll just have to make some!  Does
anyone have access to a '69 (or '70) assembly manual that could photocopy the
radio installation page for our friend?

Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 22:32:24 -0300
Subject: Re: Late News From Halifax 

In a message dated 96-05-20 16:45:32 EDT, you write:

>Old cover
>*almost* fits, not quite,

Awwww, I was really hoping you'd be able to use your old cover.  I *HATE*
looking at the Mickey Mouse cover on mine.  Oh, well, at least your problem
seems to be fixed.  Congrats!

Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 22:32:21 -0300
Subject: Re: items 

In a message dated 96-05-20 15:18:36 EDT, you write:

>Yeah, but does it have the original AIR in the tires?

No!  Here's the ad from Hemming's:

OLDS: 1970 Cutlass club coupe post sedan, W-31 Ram Air 350-325 hp, one of 116
total production, 9,000 actual miles since new and just completed meticulous
100 point body-off frame restoration, all original parts, all matching
numbers down to the carb, fully documented, glass finish aspen green with
black stripes, black bench seat interior, factory Ram Air, rear wing, 350
posi rear, power steering, sport mirrors, currently displayed in museum with
mirrors underneath, $16,995.  Volo Museum Auto Sales, 815-385-3644, IL

Doesn't say anything about original air in the tires, but probably not.  If
it was properly maintained they took out the winter air in the spring and put
the summer air in, vice-versa in the fall...

Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 22:32:21 -0300
Subject: Re: Re[2]: San Diego ramblings 

In a message dated 96-05-20 14:59:23 EDT, you write:

>front didn't look like a '69.

This doesn't help a whole lot, what else didn't it look like?  Is it possible
it could have been a '64?  Were the tail-lights in the bumper, or in the rear
end panel?  I was thinking '68, but if it didn't look like a '69 (they were
sort of similar, I guess) then I'm thinking older Olds.  Did it have the
divided grille?

Paul

------------------------------

From: Toronado66@aol.com
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 22:52:51 -0300
Subject: Re: am-fm stereo radio installation 

In a message dated 96-05-20 21:40:19 EDT, you write:

>These radios were available as factory installed equipment, so there must be
>room to install it.  If there isn't room we'll just have to make some!  Does
>anyone have access to a '69 (or '70) assembly manual that could photocopy
the
>radio installation page for our friend?
>
>

Actually,

I have an original GM Illustration Catalog 1966-1975 that shows all of this
stuff. Sorry, but I need more info on the problem as I haven't been following
the saga that closely. I tend to have the Toronado blinders on sometimes when
I go through all the copious mail daily. I will be glad to help here. Drop me
E-mail at Toronado@aol.com and we can work it out, no problem!

Greg Kalkhoff

------------------------------

From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 23:07:17 -0300
Subject: Re: Battery Problems Again!

On Fri, 17 May 1996, David Paulison wrote:

> >     Only "difference" now is the appearance of the alternator....

> Yes, please post that...I'm considering converting to HEI soon, and would
> like to convert to internal regulator at the same time.  From what you said,
> the external regulator remains in place?  Just doesn't function anymore,
> retains "original" look, right?

    You got it.  I'm rewriting it complete with ascii art since I don't 
even seem to understand what I wrote last year.   ;^)

- --> Bob

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 18:09:52 -0300
Subject: Re: A/C Airflow

Andrew C. Green wrote:
> 
> >, I turned on the A/C and the
> >flow didn't come thru the vents, but blew out the floor registers.  I can
> >make the defrost come thru the vents near the windshield and if I mess
> >with it for a while, I can get the air to come out the front vents.  My
> >guess is that the vacuum diaphragm may be leaking.  Anyway to check these
> >without ripping out the whole dashboard?
> 
>
> 1) Under the hood, maybe one or more vacuum lines are disconnected. It
> sounds like the vacuum is simply not there, for the most part, and though
> you've only noticed it inside the car, I kind of suspect the engine isn't
> getting any vacuum either. (
> holds the valve to the back of the control panel. Replace the valve with
> the $9 (or thereabouts) replacement that you bought from the GM dealer
> after the tests in Step (1) for the reservoir checked out.
> 
> Reassembly is the rev-- well, you know.  :-)
> 
> Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
> Datalogics, Inc.
> 441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
> Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

I have a friend that can't get the heater to turn off except to shut off 
the whole system and then the heat is still there to some extent.  It is 
an '84 Toronado with automatic temp control.  The air-conditioner can't 
override the heat except on MAX and then of course is not as cold as one 
would hope. The temperature setting has no effect at all and only allows 
high heat.  The fan works fine and the air can be directed to all the 
right places - defrost, vent, floor, etc.  The heater control valve has 
been replaced, but the above condition will occur even with the vacuum 
unhooked from the heater control valve.  Could this problem be similar 
to the above one?

Bill Culp

------------------------------

From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 23:15:58 -0300
Subject: Re: Q's

> I'm sure you guys will think these questions to be dumb but I'm just
> learning and although they are basic I'd like read your answers.

    We've all been there.  At least you have the sense to ask.  ;^)

> Q1 - I think the 'EI' in HEI stand for Electronic Ingnition but what does
> the 'H' stand for?

    Close.  High Energy Ignition

> Q2 - Where did the the term 'HOT ROD' come from?

    Good question!
 
> Q3 - What is the difference between an Alternator and a Generator?  How can
> you visually tell the difference?

     Generator generates (duh) DC and regulates it.   A Alternator 
generates AC, rectifies it to DC, then regulates it.   The advantages are 
several; it is easier to generate AC voltages and keep them stable at 
idle speeds, whereas generators tend to drop the voltage proportionally 
to speed.   Better control can be obtained in a alternator, as can better 
efficiency.

Appearance?   Generators are usually larger, but that's about it.

     Generators haven't been used on most domestic cars since the early 60's.

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 11:54:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Q's

SG Hartfelder wrote:
> 
> I'm sure you guys will think these questions to be dumb but I'm just
> learning and although they are basic I'd like read your answers.
> 
> Q1 - I think the 'EI' in HEI stand for Electronic Ingnition but what does
> the 'H' stand for?

Well you almost go it. H is for HIGH and EI believe it or not stands for ENERY IGNITION. 
Remember, that EI (that's electronic ignition) was introduced in 74 as an option and made 
standard in 75. HIGH ENERY IGNITION was the new option on the block. I think it was an 
adverstising ploy to make it sound so much better than the points system even though it is, 
the advertising helped sales.

> 
> Q2 - Where did the the term 'HOT ROD' come from?

I think this term was before my time. I will let the wiser handle this one.

> 
> Q3 - What is the difference between an Alternator and a Generator?  How can
> you visually tell the difference?

O.K I take a guess, at this. Here it goes. The Alternator is infact the term that should be 
used, only from Mondays to Fridays, and when ordering the part. Weekends and for the purpose 
of talking cars with fellow oldsmobilers use Generator. Hows, that?


> 
> Your answers are appreciated.
> 
> ***************
> S.G. Hartfelder     stanh@compusmart.ab.ca     Edmonton, AB  CANADA
>                     Owner:     '38 Oldsmobile Street Rod
>                Pictures at:     http://www.cjnetworks.com/olds/hartfelder.html
> ***************

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 18:34:01 -0300
Subject: Re: Time to Dump?

David Paulison wrote:
> 
> At 10:11 AM 5/20/96 -0300, you wrote:
> 
> >Bad vibration in the rear which went away when drive shaft replaced.
> 
> The whole driveshaft was replaced?  Probably just needed U-joints.  I agree!
> 
> >Annoying squeak from hell, when stopping or leaning on the front end of the
> car which no one can seem to diagnose...
> 
> Probably control arm bushings (from what I understand, it's a common in GM
> cars.   My 69 Cutlass does it sometimes.)  That is what happens!
> 
> >Rotors from hell, constantly need turning
> 
>
> 
> >Anyway, the car looks great after all the body work is done, its nice an
> big, the new ones blow, but, what is this car worth (kelley blue book value)
> and are there any other surprises you know of that may be coming down the
> pike? Thanks, Joanne
> 
> 

We have rust free cars like that all over junk yards in Alabama.  I've 
never heard of that kind of rust such as frame rails.  Those are $200 
whole running cars in junk yards.

About the brakes:  Fords are having trouble with the metallic brake pads 
and do best with the composition types because they are warping the 
rotors all over the place from the heat of the metallic ones.  Another 
possible problem is that you may be relying on only the fronts because 
the rears aren't adjusted properly, are badly worn, or have badly worn 
drums that prevent their full use.  The fronts must then take all of the 
work, heat, and wear.

If you love the car, keep it and get a nice parts car from the South.  
If you don't love it enough to spend what it takes, then get a divorce 
and find something better.  Only you and your wallet and heart know what 
is for you.

Bill Culp

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 12:05:42 -0300
Subject: Re: clatter

Pat Clark 952-3776 wrote:

> 1. Car is getting too hot. Idiot light didn't come on and coolant didn't
> overflow. Car heats up very quickly (heat in the winter in about 1 mi. without  letting it warm up in the driveway!). Today its about 96 in Texas. Could
> be?
> 
> 2. Too much initial timing. Maybe vacuum advance needs to be limited (as per
> Bob Handren)
> 
> 3. Low octane gas. Am running regular unleaded 87 octane. Have never had a
> clatter problem even after I rebuilt the engine until I put the HEI in and got the car hot (didn't clatter last night when it was cool and I didn't dog the car
> 
> 4. Crossfiring plug wires. Have to do a better job of routing my plug wires
> they lay on top of each other in too many places.
> Pat, I'm going with number 1 - the engine too thing and number 2- unlimited vac. advance. or 
possibly too much. 

Check your idle speed. Make sure it's not too low. 8 deg. TDC is good as initial but make 
sure that the timing while idling at 1000 rpm is not too far advanced. This is what I was 
saying when you put the HEI unit in. You have to use a timing light to check it. Do you have 
one? When doing this also make sure to disconnect your vac advance line from the dist. when 
setting the timing. For you to get pinging (clatter) during idle you must have either very, 
very high compression or and my money is on this, the timing is set too far advanced.

On my '72 442 350's it can set the initial timing all the way to 12 or 14 without it pinging. 
My compression is about 9.5:1.

Check it again and keep the info coming.

Regards
Fernando

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 18:48:50 -0300
Subject: Re: Time to Dump?

Andrew C. Green wrote:
> 
> >Intake manifold gasket replaced 3 times (I know this is a defect)
> 
>  I will word this carefully in case your favorite
> mechanic turns out to be a relative or something, but... I think you might
> want to get some second opinions about some of these problems that keep
> coming up over and over. Maybe some of the repair procedures are being done
> a little hastily and key steps (e.g. torque settings on manifold bolts,
> anti-corrosion surface prep on new body panels) aren't being done properly.
> 
> Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
> Datalogics, Inc.
> 441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
> Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

I agree whole heartedly.  Something is wrong for all of these repairs 
not to be a one time shot.  Many of these almost never happen - intake 
manifolds, rust every year.  The only radiator I've ever replaced is on 
my new (89) car and I have 15 others as old as 1928 (they're all used in 
100 degree weather).  Get that second opinion on what is needing repair 
and how it should be done.  A bunch of these things are are safety 
related and should have been caught in regular maintenance.  It doesn't 
sound like you skimp on maintenance, but someone is.  

Bill Culp

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 23:51:32 -0300
Subject: 62 Cutlass convertible parts

1st, thanks to the folks assisting with the truck... I'm sure it's a simple
component, but the trouble shooting is not so simple w/o a manual...

So, the word on the 62 Cutlass convertible parts car: parts are similar for
'61-'63 cars, right?

too rusty to be a car anymore. about 72,000 miles. AL 215 v8 is gone. Auto
trans is still there.  Other good parts:

Rear 1/4 glass              PS window
Windshield                  top frame
trim, chrome                driveline- CV joint
differential                5 ea. 13" 4-bolt wheels
4 taillites, and extra t'lite & headlite bezels
hood, decklid               PS bucket seat
grille- EZ repair           fuel tank
Ign switch, wiring, etc.    top cylinders
3-point mount [?] top pump  PSteering pump, brackets, gearbox.

Bumpers are rusted, but seller says can be salvaged, but at expense.

   Items missing or not worth salvage:
most body sheetmetal [unit body construction!]
engine [missing]
Steering column, driver's seat [missing]

- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: Toronado66@aol.com
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 23:58:36 -0300
Subject: Re: A/C Airflow 

In a message dated 96-05-20 22:15:08 EDT, you write:

>I have a friend that can't get the heater to turn off except to shut off 
>the whole system and then the heat is still there to some extent.  It is 
>an '84 Toronado with automatic temp control.  The air-conditioner can't 
>override the heat except on MAX and then of course is not as cold as one 
>would hope. The temperature setting has no effect at all and only allows 
>high heat.  The fan works fine and the air can be directed to all the 
>right places - defrost, vent, floor, etc.  The heater control valve has 
>been replaced, but the above condition will occur even with the vacuum 
>unhooked from the heater control valve.  Could this problem be similar 
>to the above one?
>
>Bill Culp
>
>

Bill,

Just my 2 cents here and all experience derived from older model Toros, but
here goes.

3 things can cause this that I know of:

1. Vacuum (leak or lack there of)
2. Mechanical (vent doors not shunting correctly)
3. Brainbox (in control mechanism itself)

In all my experiences, replacing the HCV did the trick. If not, a vacuum leak
turned out to be the culprit. However, after reading up on the subject (I
keep my shop manual in the bathroom instead of Readers Digest) there can be
other complicating, if not confounding factors.

There is a transistorized printed circuit in the switch (in dashboard). If
this goes, the system is rendered stupid and has no clue where or how to
shunt the respective heated or cooled air. (possibility)

The actual doors are sticking or return spring has popped off. Whether it is
sprung open and vacuum closed or visa versa, I don't know. Or, the air
sleuceway unit (located on top/middle of fire wall) is mechanically sick.
Another series of doors and shunts in there. There could even be dirt,
debris, or a mouse nest in a critical area preventing proper positioning of
the doors. Also, there is a neoprene gasket along the sealing edge of many of
the doors. I have seen where the rubber has become rotten and either fell
off, preventing a tight seal (shunt) or has partially fell off causing
binding and incomplete seal (shunt).

Although I have no advice on how to fix at this time, I believe I soon will,
as my 66 Toro has very similar ailments.

I will keep you updated as I get into the project.

Greg K.

------------------------------

From: David Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 23:06:00 -0300
Subject: Re: Battery Problems Again!

At 11:07 PM 5/20/96 -0300, you wrote:

>
>> Yes, please post that...I'm considering converting to HEI soon, and would
>> like to convert to internal regulator at the same time.  From what you said,
>> the external regulator remains in place?  Just doesn't function anymore,
>> retains "original" look, right?
>
>    You got it.  I'm rewriting it complete with ascii art since I don't 
>even seem to understand what I wrote last year.   ;^)
>
OK, thanks!!
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

 "I was put on this earth to accomplish a certain number of things;
    right now I'm so far behind, I'll never die"  --Calvin

------------------------------

From: isagil <isagil@CAM.ORG>
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 04:26:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Time to Dump?

Joanne Beausoleil wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Looking for opinions on whether it is time to dump my 86 olds cutlass supreme coupe... 

Aren't these car great? I got a P*nti*c with over 225 000 Ks, and even if I 
hate it and beat the hell out of the tiny and ugly 267, it still works... 
Drinks oil by the gallon, blue smoke a la James Bond but _never_ touched the 
engine. The camshaft is probably fully circular by now. And sometimes...you 
take care of a car and it turns sour.

If you ask for an opinion on this Olds mailing list, that's because deep down 
inside, you really want to keep the car. 

I'm a bit late on that one, but it was my turn on the soap box.


Gilles

------------------------------

From: isagil <isagil@CAM.ORG>
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 04:26:15 -0300
Subject: Re: Time to Dump?

Joanne Beausoleil wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Looking for opinions on whether it is time to dump my 86 olds cutlass supreme coupe... 

Aren't these car great? I got a P*nti*c with over 225 000 Ks, and even if I 
hate it and beat the hell out of the tiny and ugly 267, it still works... 
Drinks oil by the gallon, blue smoke a la James Bond but _never_ touched the 
engine. The camshaft is probably fully circular by now. And sometimes...you 
take care of a car and it turns sour.

If you ask for an opinion on this Olds mailing list, that's because deep down 
inside, you really want to keep the car. 

I'm a bit late on that one, but it was my turn on the soap box.


Gilles

------------------------------

From: isagil <isagil@CAM.ORG>
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 18:32:06 -0300
Subject: The heat is on

HI!

Anybody out there ever tried to run an engine without a thermostat? I 
can't find a 160 F thermostat for my car, so I thought I could just let 
the coolant go throught the radiator all the time. One thing that worries 
me is that those thermostats restrict coolant flow (compared with an 
empty thermostat housing...) to the radiator, so that the coolant stays 
longer in the radiator (?) and gets cooler. If I skip the thermostat, 
will the coolant run too fast and stay hot once it's out of the radiator? 
I'm sure anyway the engine will manage the stay hot (it's a 472 
C*dill*c), even without a thermostat.

Any thoughts?

Gilles <isagil@cam.org>

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 15:57:10 -0300
Subject: Re[2]: Q's 

> Q3 - What is the difference between an Alternator and a Generator?  
> How can you visually tell the difference?
          <snip>
Physically, there is little visual difference between them except that 
the alternator's diodes are often visable on the rear of the housing.  
They resemble beer caps: round, gold or silver, pressed into place.
          
          Uhhh... I always thought generators were significantly 
          longer than alternators, about the size and shape of an old 
          axial (A4) style air conditioning compressor, while the 
          alternator is shaped more like the newer radial (R6) A/C 
          units.  Also, aren't generators typically painted steel, 
          while alternators are bare aluminum?
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 15:51:35 -0300
Subject: Re: Perfect Timing Dept., Sparkplug Division 

...ACDelco (guess they've dropped the hyphen from their name to save 
weight) RapidFire spark plugs....
        ^^^^^^^^^
        Apparently those pesky spaces are the next thing to go.

... a cover letter signed by assorted race car drivers, a spiffy 
little mini-bumper sticker reading "ACDelco RapidFires", and a coupon 
that I can mail in with my RapidFire proof of purchase to get a free 
coffee mug with a big ACDelco logo on it. 

        I'd heard that GM has sold off the AC-Delco division (hence 
        the ACDelco) in an attempt to "get back to its core business". 
        Obviously the new owners firmly believe in the powers of 
        positive marketing, not to mention the performance benefits of 
        eliminating excess punctuation.  (Perhaps capital letters are 
        next?)
        
        You may notice the new ACDelco ads touting their racing 
        heritage, engine controller technology, etc.  Just today, I 
        say an ACDelco add which featured a Land Rover (?!), a 
        decidedly non-GM car (OK, OK, so it uses the former BOP 
        aluminum 215...)  None of these ads mention GM nor is the GM 
        logo used anymore.
        
        This is apparently a trend at GM.  They sold off the Detroit 
        Diesel Allison division to Roger Penske a few years ago, and a 
        recent article in Fortune magazine indicated that GM was 
        planning to sell off most of its non-car and truck 
        manufacturing operations, namely the Delphi parts division, 
        EDS (maybe Ross Perot will buy it back), and Hughes Aircraft.
        
        Joe Padavano
        jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
        
        66 442
        68 W-30
        69 H/O
        70 W-30

------------------------------

From: isagil <isagil@CAM.ORG>
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 18:32:06 -0300
Subject: The heat is on

HI!

Anybody out there ever tried to run an engine without a thermostat? I 
can't find a 160 F thermostat for my car, so I thought I could just let 
the coolant go throught the radiator all the time. One thing that worries 
me is that those thermostats restrict coolant flow (compared with an 
empty thermostat housing...) to the radiator, so that the coolant stays 
longer in the radiator (?) and gets cooler. If I skip the thermostat, 
will the coolant run too fast and stay hot once it's out of the radiator? 
I'm sure anyway the engine will manage the stay hot (it's a 472 
C*dill*c), even without a thermostat.

Any thoughts?

Gilles <isagil@cam.org>

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 15:51:35 -0300
Subject: Re: Perfect Timing Dept., Sparkplug Division 

...ACDelco (guess they've dropped the hyphen from their name to save 
weight) RapidFire spark plugs....
        ^^^^^^^^^
        Apparently those pesky spaces are the next thing to go.

... a cover letter signed by assorted race car drivers, a spiffy 
little mini-bumper sticker reading "ACDelco RapidFires", and a coupon 
that I can mail in with my RapidFire proof of purchase to get a free 
coffee mug with a big ACDelco logo on it. 

        I'd heard that GM has sold off the AC-Delco division (hence 
        the ACDelco) in an attempt to "get back to its core business". 
        Obviously the new owners firmly believe in the powers of 
        positive marketing, not to mention the performance benefits of 
        eliminating excess punctuation.  (Perhaps capital letters are 
        next?)
        
        You may notice the new ACDelco ads touting their racing 
        heritage, engine controller technology, etc.  Just today, I 
        say an ACDelco add which featured a Land Rover (?!), a 
        decidedly non-GM car (OK, OK, so it uses the former BOP 
        aluminum 215...)  None of these ads mention GM nor is the GM 
        logo used anymore.
        
        This is apparently a trend at GM.  They sold off the Detroit 
        Diesel Allison division to Roger Penske a few years ago, and a 
        recent article in Fortune magazine indicated that GM was 
        planning to sell off most of its non-car and truck 
        manufacturing operations, namely the Delphi parts division, 
        EDS (maybe Ross Perot will buy it back), and Hughes Aircraft.
        
        Joe Padavano
        jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
        
        66 442
        68 W-30
        69 H/O
        70 W-30

------------------------------

From: David Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Sat, 18 May 1996 15:27:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Time to Dump?

At 06:23 PM 5/21/96 -0300, you wrote:
 Why 
>not try an Olds ad? Who around here can claim, let's say, more than 300 
>000 miles (or 500 000 kms) on their car? Post!
>

Well, my 69 Cutlass doesn't have 300,000 miles, but it is quickly
approaching the 200,000 mile mark; I think it's got about 198,000 right now.
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

 "I was put on this earth to accomplish a certain number of things;
    right now I'm so far behind, I'll never die"  --Calvin

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #181
********************************

