
oldsmobile-digest           Tuesday, 28 May 1996        Volume 01 : Number 188


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 1996 18:47:12 -0300
Subject: Re: Misc Stuff

Toronado66@aol.com wrote:
> 
> "XP-784"

Ah, son of the flame red car!   (flames, flames, flames)

> ...clay version looked very similar to an Avanti. (right Mike?)

Yup.  Which may be how I'll redo the front end of the 66.


The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO
Edison3, Incorporated
Tampa, Florida
(813) 210-8649

------------------------------

From: Ron Sauve <fireball@indirect.com>
Date: Mon, 27 May 1996 17:34:31 -0300
Subject: old 1989 cutlas sup ignition switch 

the ignition switch will not shut off the engine or release the key.

What do I do and where can I get copies of the shop manual pages to 
explain the repair steps needed?

------------------------------

From: idaholc@primenet.com (Bill Goodnight)
Date: Mon, 27 May 1996 19:23:01 -0300
Subject: FAQ Access 

Are the FAQ's posted on a web page?  How can I access them?

Thanks!

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 27 May 1996 16:01:45 -0300
Subject: Re: May27 - 3 Q's

Daniel Gulino wrote:
> 
> On Mon, 27 May 1996, SG Hartfelder wrote:
> 
> > I've got three (3) questions I'm hoping someone out there can help me with:
> >
> >
> > 2.  After driving the Olds around for about an hour yesterday I got it back
> > into it's garage and turned it off.  Then, a few minutes later when I went
> > to restart it, It sort of turned over for a second then the starter just
> > started to click.  

.  It turned out to be simply a poor electrical connection at the
> battery.  The AAA mechanic just loosened the positive connection at the
> battery (it wasn't very tight when he did this), cleaned the connections
> a bit, and reattached tightly.  It then started fine.  I suppose that the
> cable clamp had just worked loose over time.
> 
>

My grandfather always said that the main cause of starting problems was 
a battery or the connections to said power house.  Check these first.
> 
> > 3.  What is Memorial Day recognizing in the US?  In Canada we have a long
>  that has NOT been moved to the nearest Monday so we
> can all take a three day weekend and thereby forget the reason for the
> holiday in the first place (cynic speaking here).
> 
> 
> 
> > Any help or advice you can share with me would be appreciated.
> >
> >
> >
> 
> Dan Gulino

I love the changing of holidays from a meaningful day to Monday.  I 
believe that we should celebrate Sunday on Monday and get it all over 
with.  Also, we need to wait on deaths (at least the official part) 
until Monday and labor for births should be chemically delayed until 
said Monday.  The only thing that shouldn't be done on Monday is the 
building of cars.

Bill Culp

------------------------------

From: StPat1@aol.com
Date: Mon, 27 May 1996 23:58:50 -0300
Subject: . 

help

------------------------------

From: StPat1@aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 00:00:21 -0300
Subject: - 

unsubscribe oldsmobile stpat1@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Aaron Neumann <neumann.12@osu.edu>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 01:23:14 -0300
Subject: Few Q's concerning '72 88 

Hi.  I'm "new."  I subscribed less than a week ago and have been sorting
through tons of mail from you guys...but I'm not complaining.  Thought I'd
actually start participating, so here's a little background:

My name is Aaron Neumann, I'm a student here at OSU in Columbus, OH.  Home
is in Akron. Outside my apartment complex sits a pretty blue 1972 Delta 88
Roy. Convt. waiting for another door ding from another moron.  She's my
pride and joy, but she's always getting on my nerves...for example:

My TH400 is acting funny.  Sometimes, when I've warmed the car up, but it's
not at peak operating temp., it disengages from gear when coming to a stop.
10-15 seconds later, or if I poke the gas pedal, it will re-engage with an
annoying thump.  Not good.  Not only that, but a few months ago, it would
thump while engaged in drive but stopped.  I checked the tranny fluid a few
months back, and thought is was low so added some.  It thought it helped,
but I'm not so sure now.  I've checked it and thought it was fine until
today, when I checked again and it was way above normal, even when cool.  Is
it a really bad thing to have too much tranny fluid in there?  If so, how
can I drain some off?  Besides that, the tranny works perfectly.  Any advice?

Now for a more general question.  I've got a problem:  I've got a need for
speed and more power.  My car is far from fast, but I wouldn't mind making
it faster.  I know all you purists are gasping at the thought of a
beautifully stock 88 being hopped up, but hey, all I wanna do is have some
fun.  Here's what it's got now:  

nice running 350
4bbl Quadrajet
single exhaust
TH400
2.7? or 2.9? rear-end w/ anit-spin (posi)

My plans:

Dual exhaust w/ Flowmasters
Slightly hotter cam
Performer Intake Manifold
Rejetted carb (mines jetted pretty lean)
 
Would put in a lower rear-end gear, but I'll lose my highway cruisability...
Might install a shift kit.

Any other suggestions or advice?  I know she'll never be fast, but at least
this way she'll be more fun...or maybe I should save the cash for that
second car...or maybe I should sell my 88 and buy that 442...or maybe that
'69 Camaro I saw for sale this weekend...life's full of tough decisions (If
anyone is interested in buying a nice 88 convt., let me know).  Anyway, good
talking to everyone...

- -Aaron 

 

------------------------------

From: "Shawn M. Twomey" <stwom@ctp.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 03:00:13 -0300
Subject: Battery cables, t-tops 

>Plus, I didn't suspect bad 
>electricals because everything else in the car (headlights, radio, dome 
>light, etc.) worked ok.  I guess there was enough current trickling 
>through to power these relatively low amperage devices, but not enough to 
>turn over the starter.

This JUST happened to me Saturday night.  Going to make a food run from the
campground, my '85 woudn't turn over.  When jumping it didn't work, we took
someone else's car, but I was despairing that we were in the middle of
nowhere and there wouldn't be any repair shops open Sunday or Monday.
Luckily, my friend who actually had half a clue knew enough to check the
battery terminal connectors.  I thought it was a waste of time for sure
because the electricals were working fine, but after scraping out the
corrosion on the connectors and re-attaching, voila!, enough juice to turn
it over.

>Besides the dealership, does anybody know of a good source for ALL the
>rubber gaskets used in the G-body T-tops (including front-top of 
>windshield, t-top glass to body, and rear-top)?  My tops are kinda leaky,
>and I have decided to replace ALL gaskets, etc. to restore good seal and
>eliminate the "hurricane" sound at highway speeds.

Brother, I share your pain.  Luckily, mine leak no water, but the drivers
side top doesn't seal properly on the front edge, resulting in so much noise
at highway speed that I might as well have the tops off.  I was kind of
amused that Andy, when selling his '82, stressed the t-tops as a big
feature-I guess some work better than mine.....

When I first bought the car, the whole front edge would lift up at about
50mph or so and the "hurricane" would start.  If you take off the plastic
trim piece, you can adjust where the locking post comes out.  This way, I
was able to lock it down good and tight, no problems, but that only worked
for a few months.  Now, only the inner third or so of the front edge is
loose, so adjusting it does nothing.  Also, the drivers side top is
noticeably warped a little-when looking at it from the back of the car, it
has a much different shape than the well-adjusted one.

I've called place after place, looking for someone who would work on it, but
nobody wants to touch these things.  The problem, I believe, is that the
frame just flexes too much, and the tops never stay adjusted.  I found an
auto-glass place that will install the weather-stripping, but I have to buy
the parts myself, and they offer NO warranty of any kind.  Checked the
dealership- the strips on the top itself are "sealant strips", about $20 a
side.  The weather stripping on the car is about $100 a side.  I have a GM
employee source, still waiting for him to come thru....(BTW, I have the GM
part numbers if you want them).

Please let me know how your search for parts & service turn out.

____________________________________________________________________________
Shawn M. Twomey     |  "Work and work and love and sex
stwom@ctp.com       |   Aint you hungry for success success success SUCCESS!
                    |   DOES IT MATTER!?!"                   -Rolling Stones
____________________________________________________________________________

------------------------------

From: ngomez@iadfw.net (Nick Gomez)
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 02:07:18 -0300
Subject: Starter Problems/Tune Up Question 

>2.  After driving the Olds around for about an hour yesterday I got it back
>into it's garage and turned it off.  Then, a few minutes later when I went
>to restart it, It sort of turned over for a second then the starter just
>started to click.  I tried about 10 more times with the same result.  After
>leaving it alone for about 2 hours I tried again and after a slight pause it
>started fine.  Any ideas what it could be or where I should start diagnosing
>the problem?

If you're still having problems after you've tried the other's suggestions,
I'd trace all the electrical connections leading from the battery,
inspecting all the connections and what-not.


Now I've got a quick question...can you all offer any advice for a guy
about to tune up his car for the first time? Any tips/advice/personal
techniques/lessons you've learned? I think I should be able to do it
without any problems, but I'm only going on what I read in some books.

Thanks in advance for all the replies!
BeaTniK

     ------------------------------------------------------------------
     1965 Oldsmobile 98 Town Sedan   TIP # 1048   I Trade Live Concerts
     Always Buying Nirvana Items   MiSTie # 53344       Keep On Skankin
     ------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 03:39:55 -0300
Subject: Weekend Entertainment 

     Well, this has proven to be a very ~memorable~ Memorial Day Weekend!
Can anyone top this one?  
     Saturday afternoon, get audio rack finished and mounted in roof.
Really cool!  Recomplete amp rack installation in trunk.  Finally finished
both!  Last time I finished the amp rack, I blew up the 403 (within five
hours!)  Time before that, I blew up the 350  (within about a week, I
guess...)  Keep in mind, all that was done was physically mounting amps and
hiding wires.  All asthetics only.  Looked great every time.   Okay, back to
Saturday.  Got amp rack done, went to have fun weekend.  Highway, five hours
later...  Oil pressure guage drops to one corner of dash, temp jumps to
other, and engine starts knocking on the door (it wants ~out~ ...  It's
getting its way!!!)  More on failure analysis later, when I know more.  It
still runs, but I'm sure I spun bearings.  Sounds like a Die-sell!  Yuk :{
My nearest theory is that the pickup tube fell out of the pump.  I dumped in
four quarts of oil, and got 3~5 p.s.i.  (I figured since I had no O.P. I had
no oil.  At that point in time, I didn't feel like checking.  All the steam
and antifreeze everywhere kinda made it unappetizing!  OK, so the 455 is
lunched, and I'm out looking for Rockit 5!  
     Sunday, drag Rockit home,  Decide partying sounds like a ~really~ good
idea.  Desperately need fun, cheering up, and loosening up after Saturday
night!  So, go to lake/dam 10 miles out of town.  (Taking trusty '83
Cutlass, since I seem to be running out of cars...)   Follow back trails to
campground, and make ~really~ big fire on river bank.  Really cool, since it
was starting to rain.  Since I would be out playing in wilderness, I locked
wallet and checkbook in glove box (can't lose 'em that way, right?)  Okay,
after three hours of rain, I decide I better get car to dry land soon, or I
may not be able to later (Mud isn't cool, especially that close to the river
bank)  So, I take car to the boat ramp and paved parking lot.  Hide any
valuables under seat, lock car and leave.  Sunday night, not likely to be
any danger in that secluded spot.  So go to have unconcerned fun...  
     Now, 4:00 AM, we are running out of pallettes, tires, etc, and it's
getting chilly.  Another friend is leaving, so I go, too.  Get to parking
lot where car is parked.  Headlights suddenly illuminate some highly
reflective stuff around all windows.  (and ground around same windows.)
Shattered glass EVERYWHERE!  Tyler and I are speechless for five minutes,
and censored for the rest of the night!  Some kind young souls broke out
five windows (sides and rear) stole about 20 CDs and 10 cassettes from under
the seat, broke open the glove box, at same time ripping out a 2X4" section
of the dash above the glove box, and stole my checkbook and wallet (with
Discover, Mastercard, two forms of Over 21 ID's, postage stamps, etc, and
one dollar bill!)  Poor interior is coverred with glass and ~blood~  ...  At
least they got hurt in the process.  I'm estimating around $2500 damage to
the car alone, plus the thefts!  Didn't touch the stereo!  (Don't understand
that!  Took 15 seconds to pull it out, and it's a really good stock tape
deck... ?!  Didn't smash the T-Tops (thanks!) I'm guessing they didn't
notice them.  Overall, made BIG mess of everything.  Major felony.  If I get
thrown in the can for murder, it means I found the culprits.  If I get
thrown in the looney bin, it means I ~didn't~!!!
     So guys, how about that zero to fifty 1/4 mile race?  Starting to seem
like we could make a large show out of it!  #$%@#@%  (censorship!)
     Oh, to make it all drive home, I cancelled the credit cards Monday AM,
(apparantly they haven't been used)  The lady on the phone told me "... have
a nice weekend..."  Sure!  I'm guessing it's a little late for that!  Anyone
else have any fun this weekend?  Things were pretty grim on this edge of the
globe!


    
      Charley Buehner       | "buehner@cis.nmclites.edu"
      Box 1255              | Montana State University-Northern
      Havre, Montana 59501  | http://cis.nmclites.edu/~buehner
      "Rockit 1"            | '81 Olds Cutlass 455
      "BT UR 4D"            | '70 Buick GS 455
             (Real Cars Don't Wear Bowties!)

------------------------------

From: "Msg Recipient" <POSTMASTER@pserver.datalytics.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 01:00:00 -0300
Subject: Mail failure 

                                                               TIME: 04:46
SUBJECT: Mail failure
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

[021] Message was not delivered due to missing routing file.


- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
   From: David Paulison  [SMTP:oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca]
     To: oldsmobile [SMTP:oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca]
   Date: 1996-05-24 00:40
Subject:  Re: V8

- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

At 12:07 AM 5/24/96 -0300, you wrote:

>i am going to be seeing one within the next week...he says he has one IN
SHOP!!!
>                         zack
>
Be sure to bring a camera...check that casting #.
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

 "I was put on this earth to accomplish a certain number of things;
    right now I'm so far behind, I'll never die"  --Calvin

------------------------------

From: ar713@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Linda Zuccaro)
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 07:52:28 -0300
Subject: Re: Battery cables, t-tops

Reply to message from stwom@ctp.com of Tue, 28 May

>
>>Besides the dealership, does anybody know of a good source for ALL the
>>rubber gaskets used in the G-body T-tops (including front-top of 
>>windshield, t-top glass to body, and rear-top)?  My tops are kinda leaky,
>>and I have decided to replace ALL gaskets, etc. to restore good seal and
>>eliminate the "hurricane" sound at highway speeds.
>
>I've called place after place, looking for someone who would work on it, but
>nobody wants to touch these things.  The problem, I believe, is that the
>frame just flexes too much, and the tops never stay adjusted.  I found an
>auto-glass place that will install the weather-stripping, but I have to buy
>the parts myself, and they offer NO warranty of any kind.  Checked the
>dealership- the strips on the top itself are "sealant strips", about $20 a
>side.  The weather stripping on the car is about $100 a side.  I have a GM
>employee source, still waiting for him to come thru....(BTW, I have the GM
>part numbers if you want them).
>
>Please let me know how your search for parts & service turn out.
>

I'd like the numbers for the weather stripping.  What is the purpose of
the sealant strips as opposed to the weather stripping?  All I know is
the one t-top leaks nicely on the back floor of the H/O.

------------------------------

From: ar713@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Linda Zuccaro)
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 07:56:51 -0300
Subject: Trans Am

While it is inappropriate for this group, the 455 caught
my eye...

My nephew is getting rid of a 1976 Trans Am.
Has a 455 [froze up], 4 speed
Edlebrock manifold, Dual Feed Holley 750,
Interior good - tear in one seat
Additional Parts - 2 doors and deck lid in good shape.

It's in Ohio, he's looking to get $1,000 out of it
or will consider parting out.  [330] 325-7962, Jim

------------------------------

From: Daniel Gulino <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 09:07:17 -0300
Subject: Re: May27 - 3 Q's 

At 04:01 PM 5/27/96 -0300, you wrote:

>I love the changing of holidays from a meaningful day to Monday.  I 
>believe that we should celebrate Sunday on Monday and get it all over 
>with.  Also, we need to wait on deaths (at least the official part) 
>until Monday and labor for births should be chemically delayed until 
>said Monday.  The only thing that shouldn't be done on Monday is the 
>building of cars.
>
>Bill Culp


Excellent points, every one of these!

The hardest part will be to get July 4th to fall on a Monday
every year.


************************************************
Daniel A. Gulino
Associate Professor and Graduate Chairman
Department of Chemical Engineering
Ohio University
Athens, Ohio  45701-2979
(614) 593-1495
(614) 593-0873 (fax)
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://www.ent.ohiou.edu/che/faculty/gulino.html
************************************************

------------------------------

From: Joanne Beausoleil <jbeausol@ftp.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 09:32:18 -0300
Subject: RE: misc stuff

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BB4C70.2F4DDA20
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

That is exactly what I do, and the warped rotors have been a problem =
before the sticking linkage problem... two different problems. When the =
throttle sticks, I need to lay on the brakes so that I can get out of =
heavy traffic, because by this time I am doing about 80 mph in the left =
lane of a highway, and need to jam into the right shoulder. Then I shut =
the car down and lay on them again to stop. Don't assume because my =
plumbing is different from yours that I panic. Maybe I would if I was =
not driving a tank to begin with! :)

- ----------
From: 	Chris Brown Witt[SMTP:wittchri@pilot.msu.edu]
Sent: 	Thursday, May 23, 1996 12:08 PM
To: 	wittchri@pilot.msu.edu; oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: 	misc stuff

To the person with the sticking throttle, which leads to emergency =
braking,
which leads to warped rotors... I know in the ruch of adrenaline, it's =
easy to
forget the basics & freak out, I've done it myself... but how about just
turning off the ignition when the throttle sticks, and gently braking to =
a
stop... Engine out of control- turn it off...  -Chris-

>      (2) Rear tail light bezels (mine are in multiple pieces)
>      (1) Reverse light lens (clear glass, not plastic)
>      (1) Rear tail light lens (red)
>      Peter G. Teubel
>      peter_teubel@hanks.com
>      '51 98

I presume you are aware of Hemmings Motor News... you didn't say what =
routes
you have tried already... Local big swap meets would be your next best =
bet,
and/or the National OCA meet. Where is it this year? Down south =
somewheres.
- -Chris-

> >broken-down into 2 primary parts; Small Block, & Big block.  It =
covered in
> >great detail how best to build your engine, and where to get the =
necessary
> >parts (ie; Mondello, Dave Smith, Batten etc.).

Sounds like a weak imitation of our standard-setting FAQ... :-)

> Right before I moved, I was trying to get 2 books.  One was Mondello's
> Olds book and the other was Cars & Parts Oldsmobile by the number (or
> something similar).  I think the Mondello book is out.  Does anybody
> have either one of these books?  If so, any comments?

OK, who's going to be the first kid on the block with Mondello's Tech =
Ref? I
have the book _442 by the Numbers_ from SuperCars, Unltd.... very fine
reference, the best available *easily* for telling what parts is what by =
visual
inspection [casting numbers], BUT it only covers 442 applications, and =
then
only '64-oh, '72 or so... Not gonna find your "S" xst manifold listed in =
there!
- -Chris-

> From: "Tom Waldron" <tomw@harborside.teleres.com>
> Subject: Check engine light
>  I have an '84 Hurst Olds with a 307 and about 105k miles. The check
>  engine light comes on intermittently, though it stays on until I shut
> off  the engine. The car runs great, fluid levels are ok. Any ideas?

Well, you might check the engine... is it stil there? Yep... Yank it =
out,
replace it with a nice 403 small block with 7a heads, 308 degree cam, =
biggest
radiator that'll fit, 7-blade fan, there ya go... Oh, if that pesky =
light STILL
stays on... remove the bulb.  :)  -Chris-

> Actually, my linkage problem is a little different. It only happens =
when =3D
> I have to floor it to get into/out of traffic. The pedal is on the =
floor =3D
> and not coming up. I have to lay on the brakes, pull over, and shut =
the =3D
> car off, go under the hood and release the linkage from its open =3D
> position. That is why I think it is a busted motor mount... When the =
=3D

Easy check: watch the engine as someone brake-torks the engine. I have =
done
this... with bad/no motor mount, the engine lifts right on up on the LH =
side...
kinda neat, until the fan hits the shroud...

> engine torques up that fast and lifts, I think the elbow of the =
linkage =3D
> gets caught on the upside of a small deppression on top of the =
manifold. =3D
> The block pushes up hard on that elbow driving it back towards the =
fire =3D
> wall so hard it sticks open. I have greased it up, but I am still =
going =3D
> to get it checked. I also pulled out a pant load of acorns, which I =
=3D
> thought was the original problem, but it happened again after I =
cleaned =3D
> them all out.

Ah, geeeez, you took out the acorns?! First t'stats, now the acorns, =
what next?
Those acorns were obviously there to prevent throttle stickage! :) =
- -Chris-

> My rear bumper on my 86 cutlass supreme coupe has some small surface =
rust. Is
it less expensive to re-chrome or just replace it?

Well, call your dealer & boneyard & bumper plating facility, and get =
your local
prices... generally speaking, if you care about the car, buy NOS if at =
all
possible. If it's just a driver, then any old used bumper will do. If =
it's a
beater, then any old 2x8 will do... as exemplified by about 90% of the
late-70's Cutlasses in Lansing... -Chris-

>      I deleted the previous messages in this thread, but people were
>      talking about the timing chain and gears on the 307 motor that =
should
>      be replaced at 70k or so.

**ANY** Olds timing chain with over oh, 80K miles...

>      and mentioned the fiber cam gear wearing out or the chain =
stretching.

Precisely correct. Then, the "fiber" or nylon pcs of tooth fall off, go =
clog up
the oil pump. Since the oil pan 'has to' come off to change the timing =
chain
anyhow... clean out the inlet screen as well at that time...  -Chris-

> Well, the nylon teeth on the top gear, on which the chain rides, are
> undoubtedly gone by now. Underneath, them, though, are steel teeth, =
which are
> much shorter, but will do the job for a while. The timing will jump =
around,

The sprockets I have seen, original ones with plastic teeth, are =
aluminum
cores. Not very long-lived with a steel chain... besides, when the =
plastic is
gone, you gotta figure the cam & thus spark timing is retarded by almost =
1/2
tooth, or about 10 degrees of crank rotation... dog-performance... =
- -Chris-

> From: John D Bartusek <bart@cmf.nrl.navy.mil>
> going a while longer and have some general questions:
>
> '71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (350 V8 2barrel) Blue exterior =
paint-White top
>     This car is great even though it's a total Brady-mobile!
> '69 Cutlass Holiday Coupe (350 V8 2 barrel)
>     This one has 120K miles on it runs much stronger than  the
>     convertible above.  Mechanically everything works well and it just

Something to do with the valves all working, and the 9.0 compression vs. =
the
8.0 compression of the '71 motor....

>     needs some bodywork and paint.  I really like it in its rough
>     form and don't really want to put a lot of $$ in this one.
>
> Q1:    Is there any maintainance besides oil changes I  should be
>     handling to keep the engine running for a long time.  Should
>     the timing chain be replaced?

Well... Yes, both timing sets are very old and deserve to be replaced. =
Your
main problem here, though, is that your best engine is in the lamest =
car...
  I recommend you 1- refresh both engines, or at least timing chains on =
both
and valve job on the '71 motor... by 'refresh' I mean tear down, wash, =
treat to
new bearings, rings, ridge ream, new oil pump maybe, valve job, spicier =
cam,
new lifters, etc.
  2- The pistons in the '69 motor offer better compression. Use them, or =
the
whole '69 motor, in the '71 car... most fun engine in most fun car. At =
refresh
time, budget will determine gear changes, cam selection, intake setup, =
etc. If
you do go 4V intake, get a non-68/9 intake & carb- get one with the =
round black
choke coil mounted ON the carb.
  3- Use the low-compression pistons/ motor in the 69, which you don't =
care to
'restore' at this time... can skimp by using old cam even if =
necessary...

Approx. Costs per engine:
$60   gasket set
$50   rings
$30   timing set
$85   all bearings
$100  valve job
$30   oil pump
$35   lifters
$100  cam

For the heads, yeah, just take them to the machine shop, and tell them =
to do a
'simple, lo-budget' valve job. They always try to sell you extra =
services like
a resurfacing, etc. Resurfacing is NECESSARY only if warpage exceeds oh, =
0.006"
[six thousandths inch] or so... So, if they talk you into cutting the =
heads,
then go for the max cut they do for that charge... up to about 0.050" =
["fifty
thousandths"] - that'll recover some of the compression you'll lose by =
using
the thicker head gaskets supplied today.
  Typical valve job is about $100, plus $10 per valve that needs =
replacing,
plus about $10 per guide that's worn out, plus about $15 per seat that =
needs
replacing.... plus about $40 for surfacing that you may or may not =
need... Ask
for a price list up front, and be sure they know to get an OK before =
going
beyond the basic valve job... of you can find yourself looking at a $300 =
bill
just for the heads...

> Q2:    This car has non-power assisted 4-wheel drum brakes which work
>     OK but not great. Actually they're kinda lame.  Is there any
>     way to improve the brakes without spending a fortune?

No. Live with 'em, or change to disks from similar GM A-body. Not =
terribly
cheap. For this car, from what you say, not worth the effort...

> Q3:    Should I consider upgrading to a 4 barrel intake and carb?
>     Power is not bad currently with the 2 barrel but if the =
improvement
>     was significant for not too much $$ and I could do it myself, I =
might
>     be interested.

You cannot beat the instant throttle response of a good Olds 2V =
setup....
depends on what rear gears you end up with, but if the gears are the =
same, keep
the 2V setup, I say...

> Q4:    Both cars have very tall gears in the rear end.  What is
>     involved in changing the gears to something offering more
>     performance.  I believe the '69 has 2.73 gears and I'm not sure =
about
>     the '71 but it may be the same.  Also, is it easier/cheaper
>     just to find a-whole-nuther rear axle with better gears?
>     John Bartusek

Find out for sure your gear ratio. This is important. Count turns if =
necessary,
of find that stamped code on the front of the RH axle tube... Yes, it is =
almost
always easier/ cheaper to swap out the whole rear end than to change =
gears.
- -Chris-

> You might want to check your cam.  Sometimes the lobes get rounded
> down or just plain rounded off (!!!).  I've actually seem a cam that

Pretty much a Chevy phenomenon... unless of course you run the engine =
with no
oil... and turn the rods blue... Heh. I have NEVER seen and Olds wipe
the lobe off the cam before.  -Chris-

> >You have to be careful when thoughts of trading your rwd for a fwd =
begin to
> >creep into your mind... first its a big muscle car with rwd, then you =
decide
> >a straight 6 with front wheel drive is ok, then you fall right into =
the fwd
> >4cyl family VANS... and then you die. :)

You CAN use a real car for a family car.. When our 76 Regal died, I =
pressed the
68 W-30 'parts car' into service as the camily car... dragged an old =
2.73
12-bolt posi out of the mud out at the farm- I tried to sell that diff. =
for $20
about 10 yrs. ago.. not ONE call... go figure. Engine out of the =
convertible
[incorrect engine anyhow...]. For a while there I still had the 3.90 =
gears in
it, but 3200 rpm at hiway speeds makes for a noisy family car.... =
- -Chris-

> was new and GM's idea of HD cooling was a 3 core radiator.  A 4-core
> radiator, a fan shroud with the largest fan that will fit and a =
thermostat
> solved all problems forever.  The same approach has served me well for =
all
> the cars I've owned and built.

I concur. Get a nice Toro 19" 7-bladed fan, drive it via a =
thermo-sensitive
clutch... use the correct shroud, and the biggest radiator you can get. =
Esp. if
replacing a 260 with a 403 :)  -Chris-

> Why?  Well it turns out that my choke tube is periodically filling up =
with
> gunk and keeping air from passing through to warm up...whatever its =
supposed
> to warm up :-)  They dont know why its doing it, but they told me to =
bring
> it back whenever it happens, and they'll blow the gunk out.  Ive been =
back 3
> times, I have to bring it in again because its happening again.  It =
sounds
> like a pain, but I hope to permanently fix the problem when I get my =
engine
> rebuilt.  Comments????
> Chris Pearson      Pearson.11@osu.edu

Uh, find out where this 'gunk' is getting in at, fix it. Supposed to =
draw clean
air in from the carb air horn, right? Is the U-tube that mounts in the =
intake
broken, allowing xst gasses in? Yank it out & inspect it....
- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu




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From: clark@sh28.dseg.ti.com (Pat Clark 952-3776)
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 09:35:39 -0300
Subject: XP-784

The XP-784? Wasn't that the "space modulator" that Bugs Bunny was always stealing from the little martian? Sorry, couldn't resist!


          ___              ___        _________
         /   |            /   |      /         \
        /    |           /    |     |   ___    |
       /     |          /     |     |__|   |   |
      /      |         /      |           /   /   
     /       |        /       |          /   /   
    /   /|   |       /   /|   |         /   /
   /   /_|   |__    /   /_|   |__      /   /
  |             |  |             |    /   /
  |______     __|  |______     __|   /   /_____
         |   |            |   |     |          |      Pat Clark
         |___|            |___|     |__________|       69 442
						      400/400

   "Just your average 300+hp garage hogging, gas sucking, money pit"

------------------------------

From: AMSOILL@aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 09:41:26 -0300
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #187 

In a message dated 96-05-28 00:45:06 EDT, you write:

>>           Yes, I get sick every time I see one of these ads.  As it
>>           turns out, the W-27 housing is significantly weaker than the
>>           iron one.  Here's a hot tip for a low-cost, higher-strength
>>           W-27 replica:
>>
>>           Get your stock, non-W-27 housing center section aluminum
>>           sprayed!  Basicly this is a process wherein alumunim is
>
>HEY!!!  I *like* this plan! Looks correct, not just painted, but has the
>strength of an iron center section... Yes! -Chris-
>
>

     Why FAKE a car's originality?

------------------------------

From: AMSOILL@aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 09:41:31 -0300
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #187 

In a message dated 96-05-28 00:45:06 EDT, you write:

>> You cannot beat the instant throttle response of a good Olds 2V setup....
>> depends on what rear gears you end up with, but if the gears are the same,
>kee
>> the 2V setup, I say...
>>           No, sorry, I've got to disagree with this one.  Keep in mind
>>           the carb design and sizing is, by definintion, a compromise
>>           to maintain airflow velocity and fuel atomization over the
>>           operating range of the engine.  Any 2bbl carb will of
>>           necessity have venturies which are too big at low rpm (when
>>           you stomp on it) and too small at high rpm.  The Q-Jet (or
>
>Well, having owned & driven both, I still think the throttle response of th

  The 4-bbl. Rochester Quadrajet from a standing start is only running on
it's *primaries anyway*!  Just like a 2-bbl. carburetor.  The secondaries do
not open until there is enough engine rpm/vacuum to pull them open.  The
throttle response of a Rochester 2-bbl and Rochester 4-bbl. should be the
*same* for this reason, (all other things being equal).

                                       Cheers,
                                                 Steve

------------------------------

From: Joanne Beausoleil <jbeausol@ftp.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 09:43:22 -0300
Subject: RE: Did you see...

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You guys have way too much time on your hands...

- ----------
From: 	Toronado66@aol.com[SMTP:Toronado66@aol.com]
Sent: 	Friday, May 24, 1996 11:48 AM
To: 	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: 	Re: Did you see...

In a message dated 96-05-24 11:36:54 EDT, you write:

> Florence "Brady Bunch" Henderson, and the
>car was... a 1958 Olds 88. What a battleship that car was!

Brady Bunch:

If you look close, after the opening credits, there is a long shot of the
Brady House, and a 1966 Toronado drives down the street! I never watched the
show much, but I always watched the beginning to see my car!  LOL

Greg K.




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From: Joanne Beausoleil <jbeausol@ftp.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 09:52:21 -0300
Subject: RE: May27 - 3 Q's

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Memorial is a day in US is to remember the people who died in wars.

- ----------
From: 	SG Hartfelder[SMTP:stanh@compusmart.ab.ca]
Sent: 	Monday, May 27, 1996 1:17 PM
To: 	Oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: 	May27 - 3 Q's

Hope everyone had or is having a good weekend. I guess our friends in the US
get a long weekend (May 27th) because of Memorial Day.  Even though it was
cloudy and kinda crummy here in Edmonton, I did manage to get the Olds out
for a drive on Sunday.

I've got three (3) questions I'm hoping someone out there can help me with:

1.  I have Centreline aluminum wheels and they have what appears to be water
spots on them.  They are fairly unnoticeable but I'm kind of a perfectionist
and would like to clean them up.  I tried boiling a solution of 50% water &
50% white vinegar and after scrubbing one wheel for about 15 minutes with a
tooth brush there was very little improvement.  Anyone have a magic solution
you can share?

2.  After driving the Olds around for about an hour yesterday I got it back
into it's garage and turned it off.  Then, a few minutes later when I went
to restart it, It sort of turned over for a second then the starter just
started to click.  I tried about 10 more times with the same result.  After
leaving it alone for about 2 hours I tried again and after a slight pause it
started fine.  Any ideas what it could be or where I should start diagnosing
the problem?

3.  What is Memorial Day recognizing in the US?  In Canada we have a long
weekend in May called Victoria Day (3rd Monday in May) which celebrates
Queen Victoria's birthday.  Queen Victoria has passed away long ago so now
it's a day to celebrate the current monarch's birthday.

Any help or advice you can share with me would be appreciated.





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From: Joanne Beausoleil <jbeausol@ftp.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 10:06:48 -0300
Subject: Wind noise

Hi,

Has anyone out there been able to deal successfully with the wind noise =
from the coffin size doors on the 86 cutlass supreme? I am sure other =
models have this problem, where there is no frame to roll the window up =
into. I am about to take the doors apart and tighten down the window =
mechanism (mechanical), which rattles anyway, but I also noticed that =
the rubber gaskets are starting to dry rot. Are those replaceable? I am =
tired of stuffing a sock in the crack on the passenger door window on =
long trips. Thanks... Joanne

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 11:43:23 -0300
Subject: Re: Friday's Misc? 

          
>           atomization, good gas milage, good throttle response at low
                         ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Heh, compared to what? When I had a Qjet at my disposal, I tended to use them 
big old back barrels, and the car generally had more like 3.90 gears, so 
mileage was not 'good'.
          
          Then there's that pesky old "when driven the same"...
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/)
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: LMEIDT@aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 10:52:04 -0300
Subject: Re: Too much 

Thanks for the help.  I'm still getting used to the computer age, but trying
my best.

  Larry Meidt,  Haddonfield,  NJ

  67 TORO
  

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 11:54:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Few Q's concerning '72 88 

I've got a problem:  I've got a need for speed and more power. 

        Two words:
        
        Big Block (455, in case anyone though I meant one of those other big 
        block engines)
        
        My motto has always been "It's not a real engine if it has less 
        that 400 cubic inches."  (I assume now we'll hear from the 403 
        advocates...)
        
        Joe Padavano
        jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
        
        66 442
        68 W-30
        69 H/O
        70 W-30

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 14:04:33 -0300
Subject: Re: Too much

LMEIDT@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Thanks for the help.  I'm still getting used to the computer age, but trying
> my best.
> 
>   Larry Meidt,  Haddonfield,  NJ
> 
>   67 TORO 
Ah!  Toro!  Cool.

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO
Edison3, Incorporated
Tampa, Florida
(813) 210-8649

------------------------------

From: Bill Gochenour <billg@sjuvm.stjohns.edu>
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 14:23:17 -0400
Subject: 83/84 Hurst/Olds rear deck spoiler !

Anyone have any clues where I can find a passenger side wing tip 
from the rear deck spoiler. Maybe somebody knows somebody with a damaged 
spoiler or just an extra tip, hanging around collecting dust! (well it 
was worth a shot).
	As for you 83/84-H/O people check you spoilers, if you see the 
paint in the seems starting to crack, they will fall out (when you least 
expect it, usually about 60mph & who knows where). Pull them out now 
while you still have a chance (and still have both the tips)then use a 
good two part epoxy to glue them back in. In the long run you'll save 
yourself alot of trouble. By the way thats experience talking !


Any ideas
E-Mail: billg@sjuvm.stjohns.edu	

Alais: Tipless 83 H/O

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 06:46:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Battery cables, t-tops

Shawn M. Twomey wrote:
> 
> >  My tops are kinda leaky,
> >and I have decided to replace ALL gaskets, etc. to restore good seal and
> >eliminate the "hurricane" sound at highway speeds.
> 
> 
> ____________________________________________________________________________
> Shawn M. Twomey     |  "Work and work and love and sex
> stwom@ctp.com       |   Aint you hungry for success success success SUCCESS!
>                     |   DOES IT MATTER!?!"                   -Rolling Stones
> ____________________________________________________________________________

Buying new seals doesn't always work.  The installation  is a trick to 
get right.  They many times leak and whistle as badly as the old ones.

Those seals will puff out somewhat if they are SOAKED with something 
like ArmorAll.  It may be enough to take care of the problem and keep up 
the treatment every couple of weeks.  I had a 1973 Cutlass with the 
Vista Vent and it lasted for 16 years with no leaks for me using this 
treatment.  I helped a sunroof in a 1984 toronado with the same 
technique just last year.  It doesn't leak and I only see it every 6 
months for help.  My daughter's 1987 Mustang GT with T-Tops is fine 
after all these years.  

Bill Culp

------------------------------

From: "Tom Waldron" <tomw@harborside.teleres.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 07:00:00 -0300
Subject: RE: 83/84 Hurst/Olds rear deck spoiler !

 ----------
From:  Bill Gochenour [SMTP:oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca]
Sent:  Tuesday, May 28, 1996 10:36 AM
To:  tomw; oldsmobile
Cc:  billg
Subject:  83/84 Hurst/Olds rear deck spoiler !


>Anyone have any clues where I can find a passenger side wing tip
>from the rear deck spoiler. Maybe somebody knows somebody with a   
>damaged
>spoiler or just an extra tip, hanging around collecting dust! (well it
>was worth a shot).


>Any ideas
>E-Mail: billg@sjuvm.stjohns.edu 

>Alais: Tipless 83 H/O

I know the feeling. The exact same thing happened to my '84 about 2 weeks   
ago. I'm still searching for someplace to get parts for the 83/84, if I   
find anything, I'll let you know.

Tom Waldron tomw@harborside.teleres.com
  '84 H/O

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 12:25:25 -0300
Subject: _Auto Pioneering_

Started to read the book _Auto Pioneering_ last nite... literally could not put
it down... Quite fascinating. Recommended reading. He was always thinking of
ways to fight anti-auto sentiment, and to get and keep Oldsmobile in the
headlines.
  A New York dealer had the distinction of receiving the first automobile
speeding ticket- purposely, to show that the newfangled contraption could
proceed quite rapidly if necessary.
  Page 84: [in the Olds Motor Works factory, c. 1901, as curved-dash runabouts
were being assembled] "One interested observer, a tall, thin-faced man in his
thirties, of a late afternoon stood looking at the progress which was being
made. This young man worked for the Detroit Edison Co. at an annual wage of
$1,000.00. His name was Henry Ford. When R.E. saw him watching one of the
curved-dash models undergo a road test, he said, 'Henry, this is going to be a
great business. Why don't you get into it?' "
  August of 1904, after splitting with the Oldsmobile Co. over a dispute with
wealthy folks who had controlling interest in the company, friends in Lansing
agreed to back him in starting a new car company in that town. Agreeing to give
R.E. total directional control, and backing his idea of producing a small
inexpensive car for the masses, thus was formed the Reo Motor Car Company. Page
147: " 'We're starting without so much as a lead pencil... We have no factory,
no patterns, no working organization. But given unlimited backing, I'm
convinced that we can be in operation almost before the year is over' " -R.E.
Olds to his backers. In fact, in just over *two months* since becoming manager
fo the new company, the the first Reo car was ready for testing. Including
improvements such as higher ground clearance for better "road" passage [if what
passed for roads back then could be called roads...], lights for nighttime
vision, running boards to make entrance and egress easier, a steering wheel
rather than a tiller handle, and a rain cover [convertible top?] that could be
raised almost instantly, yet did not force the car's price to exhorbitant
heights.
  All along, his goal was to ease the burden of the average working person, as
in his youth he had become keenly aware of the toil and expense involved in
keeping horses.

_Auto Pioneering_
A remakable story of Ransom E. Olds
father of Oldsmobile and Reo
by Duane Yarnell
New York City
Copyrighted 1949 by R.E. Olds, Lansing Michigan
printed by Franklin DeKline Co., Lansing, MI.
TL 140 .04 Y3 call letters
- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: SG Hartfelder <stanh@compusmart.ab.ca>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 13:31:12 -0300
Subject: Thank-you. 

Last month I described the following problem:  When I purchased my 1938
Oldsmobile in February this year it already had an AM/FM/CASS deck
installed.  It's a Clarion unit, model 3580RC and was installed about 1.5
years ago.  The problem I have is that the specification sheet describes the
power at 20w x 4 and when I turn it up a bit or try to increase the bass
response it sounds quite distorted.  The rear speakers are 6x9 and the front
speakers are 5.25 round.  All of the speakers are also Clarion.

What I'm wondering is:
        1.  Is something not hooked up properly?  How could I diagnose this?
        2.  Should I add a power amplifier & a sub-woffer?


Thank-you to:
        Robert Lawrence
        Mike Fredrick
        Mikde Coccagna
        Travis McWalters
        Andrew Green

After applying all your collective wisdom I narrowed it down to the right
rear speaker.  I replaced it and the other 6x9 on the left rear and once
again travel down the road listening to great sounding tunes.

Thanx.

------------------------------

From: "C. K. Yee" <yu135008@yorku.ca>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 12:39:57 -0300
Subject: Quadrajet secondaries

>   The 4-bbl. Rochester Quadrajet from a standing start is only running on
> it's *primaries anyway*!  Just like a 2-bbl. carburetor.  The secondaries do
> not open until there is enough engine rpm/vacuum to pull them open.  The
> throttle response of a Rochester 2-bbl and Rochester 4-bbl. should be the
> *same* for this reason, (all other things being equal).

The secondaries' air valve is linked to the front vacuum break.  The
controlled extension of the front vacuum break when vacuum is lost
(i.e. when the engine is under load) provides a smooth transition to 
the added airflow.  The rate at which they open is determined by the
orifice size at the vacuum connection of the front vacuum break.

This air valve meters fuel according to air flow, hence you are right in a 
sense that they don't open until there is a demand for it.  However,
the secondary throttle valves are linked directly to the accelerator
linkage, and will open at sufficient throttle openings (> 2/3) unless the 
secondary lockout tang it engaged (during choke operation).

Perhaps it is this 'cushioned' secondary response that leads to the
impression that the throttle response is lower in 4-BBL Q-jets.  Remember 
that the delay in secondary air valve opening is there to prevent the car 
from bogging down when the throttle is flipped open quickly, although 
this can be tuned to provide slightly quicker opening.
 
Kevin Wong

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 12:42:18 -0300
Subject: Info wanted on 63 car

>From the web page:
Can any of y'all help this guy out?

Forwarded message:
> From cheaneyb@hcc-uky.campus.mci.net Mon May 27 21:05:18 1996
> Date: Mon, 27 May 1996 20:06:09 -0700
> From: Ben Cheaney <cheaneyb@hcc-uky.campus.mci.net>
> Organization: Poplar Crest Farms
> X-URL: http://www.442.com/rocketsci.html
>
> I am about to buy a 1963 Olds Super 88 w/ Holiday Hard-Top.  I have been
> looking for sources to find parts for the Engine, Transmission, and
> Interior.  If you have any specifications on the transmission, they would
> be greatly apreciated.
> Ben Cheaney
> cheaneyb@hcc-uky.campus.mci.net

I guess the usual places: Kanter, HMN, swap meets, etc.
- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 11:57:06 -0300
Subject: Re: Battery cables, t-tops 

>Brother, I share your pain.  Luckily, mine leak no water, but the drivers
>side top doesn't seal properly on the front edge, resulting in so much noise
>at highway speed that I might as well have the tops off.  I was kind of
>amused that Andy, when selling his '82, stressed the t-tops as a big
>feature-I guess some work better than mine...

Well, I did say they leaked a bit, didn't I?  :-)

>When I first bought the car, the whole front edge would lift up at about
>50mph or so and the "hurricane" would start.  If you take off the plastic
>trim piece, you can adjust where the locking post comes out.  This way, I
>was able to lock it down good and tight, no problems, but that only worked
>for a few months.  Now, only the inner third or so of the front edge is
>loose, so adjusting it does nothing.

Really? When I adjusted the locking pins on mine, I could, if I wanted 
to, get them so out of whack that they basically missed the holes in the
pillars; in other words, I didn't think I'd ever run out of adjustment 
room when moving those pin collars upwards for a tight fit against the
roof.

>Also, the drivers side top is
>noticeably warped a little-when looking at it from the back of the car, it
>has a much different shape than the well-adjusted one.

Any chance there might be some body distortion that's doing this? I mean,
the T-top is a pane of glass. While it is flexible to a certain extent, if
you can see it warping or bending, that sounds like a Bad Thing.

>I've called place after place, looking for someone who would work on it, but
>nobody wants to touch these things.  The problem, I believe, is that the
>frame just flexes too much, and the tops never stay adjusted.

Agreed. But I've been all over mine in the eight years I had the car, and
I scrutinized the front seal of the T-tops inch by inch; they were tight.
I finally decided that possibly the leaks were not coming in around the
edges of the glass, but maybe from somewhere else, such as the upper edge 
of the windshield molding. At one point a few years back, I got a tube of 
clear GE silicone sealer and filled in the gap between the top windshield
molding and the leading edge of the roof along the left third or so of the
windshield. I think this helped a lot at the time, although the leak did
finally return a few years later.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Dan Dale <daleds@okra.millsaps.edu>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 13:14:14 -0300
Subject: 77 Toro XSR rear window for sale 

I found a perfect one with defog in a junkyard here in Mississippi. if anyone
wants it they can call me at 601-373-9856..no email since my student account
will be closed. I'll be happy to arrange shipping.
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
$Daniel Dale  daleds@okra.millsaps.edu f-list since 2/95 http://www.millsaps.$
$edu/~daleds/index.html  cars: 1972 Cotner-Bevington Oldsmobile 98 Endloader,$
$1966 Pontiac GTO, 1973 Imperial LeBaron, 1987 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-X 5.7TPI$  
$1955 Cadillac Seville, (2) 1969 Cadillac DeVille Convertibles(one for parts)$ 
$1976 Cadillac Series 75 Fleetwood Brougham, 1961 Imperial Custom            $
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 06:22:09 -0300
Subject: Re: May27 - 3 Q's 

     1.  I don't have any experience with Al wheels, but I know there are 
     tons of aluminum wheel cleaners at the auto store.  Tried any of them?
     
     2.  Sounds like starter heat soak, or the starter solenoid is starting 
     to go.  If you have headers you may have to get a heat shield for the 
     starter.  If you don't have headers, your solenoid probably needs 
     replaced.  Might have to replace the whole starter to change it.  This 
     happened on my '79 once, a new starter&solenoid fixed it permanently.  
     It was kind of funny, on a long drive to Montana I stopped in a small 
     town of about 4 buildings and two bars to take a leak and when i got 
     back out, ruhrrr, ruhrrrrrrrrr... click. click.  Many horrible 
     thoughts about being stuck there went through my head while I passed 
     the next hour playing poker machines, video games, and drinking cokes. 
      Fortunately it started after that!  Fix yours *before* you end up in 
     that situation.
     
     3.  Dead Veterans.


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: May27 - 3 Q's
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    5/27/96 9:51 AM
     
     1.  I have Centreline aluminum wheels and they have what appears to be 
     water spots on them.
     
2.  After driving the Olds around for about an hour yesterday I got it back 
into it's garage and turned it off.  Then, a few minutes later when I went 
to restart it, It sort of turned over for a second then the starter just 
started to click.  I tried about 10 more times with the same result.  After 
leaving it alone for about 2 hours I tried again and after a slight pause it 
started fine.  Any ideas what it could be or where I should start diagnosing 
the problem?
     
     3.  What is Memorial Day recognizing in the US?

------------------------------

From: Mike Coccagna <mikec@pop.kis.net>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 14:51:42 -0300
Subject: Re: Thank-you.

[snip]
> Thank-you to:
>         Robert Lawrence
>         Mike Fredrick
>         Mike Coccagna
>         Travis McWalters
>         Andrew Green
> 
> After applying all your collective wisdom I narrowed it down to the
> right rear speaker.  I replaced it and the other 6x9 on the left
> rear and once again travel down the road listening to great sounding
> tunes.
> 
> Thanx.

You're welcome.  That's what we're here for.  Glad the tunes have 
returned (clearly)!

Mike
 

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 06:51:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Weekend Entertainment 

     Ouch!  My sympathies, Charlie.  I hope they do find the bastards that 
     busted up your car!  Did you have insurance?  Don't hold your breath, 
     I don't even think they tried to find the guy who pry-barred out my 
     door lock and stole the CD player (without faceplate, therefore 
     unuseable and you can't buy another without the receipt) a few years 
     ago, or the low-life that stole my Indian moped from my garage.  If 
     they do find the guy, don't worry, any jury member who's been through 
     something similar will *not* convict you of murder  :-)
     
     Anyways, yes I did have fun this weekend.  The trip to Montana was 
     great, no speed limits are great!  Would be even better without 3.73 
     gears (even with the OD, 90mph is about 3500rpm).  The only person who 
     passed me the whole weekend:  A dinky old beat-up Honda civic going 
     about 95 carrying two bicycles (taller than the car) on the roof.  Go 
     figure. . .
     
     Also got quite a few strange looks and questions while wearing the 
     Bryceman's web T-shirt at a science fiction convention!  :-)
     
Tom L.

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Weekend Entertainment
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    5/28/96 12:21 AM


 Anyone else have any fun this weekend?  Things were pretty grim on this 
edge of the globe!
     

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 15:19:45 -0300
Subject: Re[4]: The heat is on 

Yeah, not to mention that wonderful product known as "Bars Leaks" settling to 
the bottom of the block.  Sealed half the water passage between the block and 
heads on my 455.

David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    "Oldsmobile - powerful roadsters with big V8s"
Send Olds FAQ request to: dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu

- -------------------
One other thing that must be considered is how much "gunk" (scale, rust,
grime, etc) is coating the inside of the water passages in the block.  When
I replaced the freeze plugs in my 350, I got some help from my uncle, who
has been diesel boat mechanic down in Port St. Lucie, FL for some 20 odd
years now.  He told me that something like 1/16" or 1/8" of "gunk" will
impair heat transfer like there was 3 more inches of cast iron there!  Amazing!
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

 "I was put on this earth to accomplish a certain number of things;
    right now I'm so far behind, I'll never die"  --Calvin

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 14:13:32 -0300
Subject: Lye, PBrakes

For the folks who have used hot tank of lye to clean parts:
I finally found a 5-gal METAL bucket, got a can of Red Devil lye last night...
4 gal water, one can lye, one small box o' parts... 2 electric heaters under it
provide reasonable heat...
  Well, all I get so far is an oil film on top. I fish a part out and it's
still greasy. What's up? The lye was in a 12oz container- was it more like 5#
lye per 5Gal. water??? Do you need to degrease a bit first? I dumped parts in
right off the engine... Also, does that stuff eat aluminum? I included a bunch
of rockers & pedestals, we'll see what happens I guess. Oh, and are the fumes
really bad? I had it outdoors at first, to make sure the heat units were OK and
the fumes not deadly or overpowering... don't want all the tools rusting from a
cloud of NaOH or something. Later, if it works well, I have a gas burner to
supply heat.

I was thinking, after noticing the fact that an extremely 'enthusiastic' cam
sorta precludes the use of power brakes, how one might overcome this. First
thought was a crank-triggered ignition system, with the distributor replaced by
the vacuum pump that Diesels used... but, that might not be enough vacuum, and
even if you TRIGGER the spark by crank, you still have to DISTRIBUTE it...
  Then, the other day, as I was extracting pcs off a Caddy that donated its
403... the answer occured to me! Diesels got power brakes from a hydraulic unit
that used power steering pressure! There ya go... power brakes, power steering,
AND a rowdy cam... Problem solved. Yet another use for Diesel cars!
- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: JJF97@uno.cc.geneseo.edu
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 15:21:04 -0300
Subject: hello

subscribe me please.

- --joe

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 07:21:48 -0300
Subject: Re: Wind noise 

     I don't get the problem on my '84, or on my '79 when I had it.  On 
     both cars sometimes you couldn't roll the window all the way up when 
     going more than 50mph.  The aerodynamic effects pulled the window out 
     enough that it wouldn't go on the inside of the little black plastic 
     "tab" that's in the upper front corner of the window.  Are your tabs 
     still there?  Another problem could be sagging doors, perhaps you need 
     new hinge pins.  They aren't hard to replace, but get a couple of 
     friends to help (two to hold the door, one to replace the pin).
     
     The windows on my '84 H/O were creaking against the rubber gaskets at 
     the top when rolled all the way up.  You could turn up the radio and 
     "fix" the problem, but other than that I was really confused as to how 
     to fix them.  On a 5 hour trip back from Seattle two months ago, the 
     creaking was about to drive me and my fiance' insane (it's right next 
     to your ear).  So I stopped and wiped some motor oil (Mobil-1 10w30) 
     on the gaskets and it's been fine ever since!  The gaskets sucked the 
     oil up and they aren't greasy to the touch.  I'll be dammed... it 
     worked!
     
     Tom L.

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Wind noise
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
Date:    5/28/96 6:51 AM


Hi,
     
Has anyone out there been able to deal successfully with the wind noise = 
from the coffin size doors on the 86 cutlass supreme? I am sure other = 
models have this problem, where there is no frame to roll the window up = 
into. I am about to take the doors apart and tighten down the window = 
mechanism (mechanical), which rattles anyway, but I also noticed that = 
the rubber gaskets are starting to dry rot. Are those replaceable? I am = 
tired of stuffing a sock in the crack on the passenger door window on = 
long trips. Thanks... Joanne
     

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 15:56:50 -0300
Subject: Re: old 1989 cutlas sup ignition switch  

Public libraries usually have shop/chassis manuals available.  Check with a 
dealer for Olds' source.  It might still be in the back of the car's owners 
manual.

David Brown          OCA #27978         (312) 702-9157
    "Oldsmobile - powerful roadsters with big V8s"
Send Olds FAQ request to: dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu
- -------------------

the ignition switch will not shut off the engine or release the key.

What do I do and where can I get copies of the shop manual pages to 
explain the repair steps needed?

------------------------------

From: ndg@traverse.com (Nielsen Design Group)
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 10:11:44 -0300
Subject: '68 442 

Found a '68 442 Holiday Hardtop (no post) project car. This car was
supposedly in a barn for 22 years.
No motor, but has the Muncie 4 spd w/ Hurst 442 shifter & bell housing &
flywheel.
All logos are there, as are grilles, bumpers, lenses.
Appears to have had rt. rear quarter replaced some years ago. Small rust
hole on seam where joined to rocker.
Otherwise, very rust free for a Northern Michigan car.

Firm asking price or $650. What does everyone think?

------------------------------

From: ndg@traverse.com (Nielsen Design Group)
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 10:45:35 -0300
Subject: '68 442 

That is, 'Firm asking price of $650. What does everyone think?'

A few more questions:
Does anyone know what the factory colors were in '68 for 442's? The car is
currently blue-gray.
What did the deck stripe(s) look like? Single or Double? Colors?
I am under the impression that this car was not offered with a 455 AND the
manual trans.
What is correct? a 400? a 350? Can we tell by the VIN #?
I'm thinking of dropping in a '75 455 out of a 98, possibly rebuilt to '68
specs. Comments?

Thanks,
Darren Shroeger

------------------------------

From: David Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Sat, 25 May 1996 16:50:22 -0300
Subject: NON-OLDS (Weekend Entertainment)

Had a four day camping trip planned, with my friend and his boat as the only
transport to and from an island in the Indian River.  We went over the
engine (50 hp Mariner) thoroughly (we thought) before the trip.  Started and
ran fine in the driveway at his house.  Ran ok the first day.  

Day Two --

Took a couple people in our party to the dock for a trip to the store, and
went back to the island.  When we tried to start it the motor to pick them
up, it wouldn't.  Called them (we *did* have a cell phone that worked..) and
told them mitaswell go home, the boat won't run.  Worked on the boat for a
couple hours, the problem was a stuck needle valve in a carb flooding the
engine.  Got it running.  Ran good for about a half hour.  The engine
stalled, and wouldn't restart.  We got some help from some guys on the other
side of the island.  Tinkered for a half hour or so, found out the engine
had no spark.  We took the stator out of the magneto, and a couple wires
coming out of it were really f**ked up.  They had been rubbing on the engine
block.  Repaired the wiring, put it all back together, and had spark on
cylinders 1 & 3.  No spark on 2.  Checked #2 coil, it was no good.  

Day three -- 

My friend had his fiance (one of the two who left the island the second day)
pick a coil up at the boat shop.  She happened to run into her sister and
her boyfriend at the dock with their boat, and they brought us the coil.
Put in the new coil, had spark on all three cylinders!  Great!  Took the
boat out for about ten or fifteen minutes, it ran great.  Friend's fiance
loaded up the boat to take some stuff we wouldn't be needing back to the
truck. Got the boat started, and when we put it in gear, uh, there was no
gear.  Engine rev, but no go.  Shut it off, trimmed it up.  The prop had
fallen off!  It was brand new, too; he had bought it the week before the
camping trip.  Seems the shaft had no provision for a cotter pin.  The nut
had a washer under it that fit over studs on the prop, and had a couple tabs
that bent up against the side of the nut, to keep the nut from spinning off.
Well, it obviously didn't work.  Searched the water for about a half hour,
and found the prop.  

Day four --

My friend thought that if we put the prop on the shaft and twisted some
heavy wire around the shaft, it would stay on if we didn't put the engine in
reverse. The prop would keep itself pushed on the shaft (sounded logical
then, we were getting desperate..), and we could take that boat load of the
stuff-we-don't-need-anymore to the dock.  Well, we put the prop on in the
aforementioned manner.  Started the engine, and the linkage for fast idle
was busted at the engine.  Rigged that up with some of that heavy gauge
wire, put it in gear, and guess what? -- the prop had fallen off.  Found the
prop again, only took ten minutes.  Finally gave up on fixing the motor to
get us off the island. Walked around the island (Gilligan's Island now?),
and found someone who was willing to give us a tow.  We were glad to get off
that island!  Had all sorts of things planned -- water skiing, knee
boarding, etc.  Didn't get to do any of it.  Ah, well, we still had a pretty
good time, except when we ran out of beer on the third day.  ;)

Anyway, we've got some work to do on that one!  It's really not a bad
engine, runs good and strong, when it runs.  Everything just decided to
finally break all at once.  

Hope I haven't bored you to death...
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

 "I was put on this earth to accomplish a certain number of things;
    right now I'm so far behind, I'll never die"  --Calvin

------------------------------

From: David Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Sat, 25 May 1996 16:48:41 -0300
Subject: Re: Weekend Entertainment

At 03:39 AM 5/28/96 -0300, you wrote:
>     Well, this has proven to be a very ~memorable~ Memorial Day Weekend!
>Can anyone top this one?  
>       Anyone
>else have any fun this weekend?  Things were pretty grim on this edge of the
>globe!
>
>
>    
>      Charley Buehner 

Well, I don't think can top it, but I did have quite a weekend.  It's
non-Olds related, though.  I'll post it separately...      
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

 "I was put on this earth to accomplish a certain number of things;
    right now I'm so far behind, I'll never die"  --Calvin

------------------------------

From: David Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Sat, 25 May 1996 17:16:43 -0300
Subject: Re: Quadrajet secondaries

At 12:39 PM 5/28/96 -0300, you wrote:

>Perhaps it is this 'cushioned' secondary response that leads to the
>impression that the throttle response is lower in 4-BBL Q-jets.  Remember 
>that the delay in secondary air valve opening is there to prevent the car 
                                                           ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>from bogging down when the throttle is flipped open quickly, although 
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>this can be tuned to provide slightly quicker opening.
> 
I seem to have (and have always had) this problem.  When I step on the gas
from a stop, the engine seems *very* sluggish, until the engine rpm's get up
to about 2,000 or 2,500, then it gets right up and goes!  I believe the
secondaries are opening way too early.  There was a time when the little
return spring up at the top of the carb on the butterfly valves that lift
the metering rods was broken, and the engine would only accelerate
vveeerrrrrryyy slowly, or else it would stall from the secondaries opening.
I fixed the spring, and it worked OK again, except for the usual
sluggishness.  The engine is stock except for an aftermarket coil.  Is that
normal for a stock engine?  Back when the carb # thread was running, my carb
# decoded as being for a 1968 Pontiac 400 w/Ram Air. In that case, could it
just be jetted to big for my engine?  This isn't a real big problem to me,
the car just doesn't have real great pickup (and I _think_ it should!)  Your
comments/suggestions are appreciated!
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

 "I was put on this earth to accomplish a certain number of things;
    right now I'm so far behind, I'll never die"  --Calvin

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 10:22:00 -0300
Subject: Beater suggestions 

     Lately it's seemes that an additional car would be more and more 
     useful.  I'd love to have another car to use as a "small emergency 
     backup car", and possibly during the winter to sacrifice to the Snow 
     Gods on the worst of winter days.
     
     My two primary concerns are money and space.  Under $500 (preferably 
     about $300) and small enough to only kill a minimal-sized patch of 
     grass in the back alleyway.  I know most people here think similarly 
     to myself (full-size, RWD, V8, Olds) when it comes to car tastes, so 
     I'm wondering if anyone here has any suggestions for cars.
     
     Olds never made (until recently, but those would be too expensive) 
     small cars, correct?  I'm thinking I might be able to deal with a 
     '70's Omega, but that still might be too big for convenient storage.  
     How come I never see anyone here with Omegas?  Were they that bad?  I 
     used to have a Nova (with an Omega fender) that I thought was pretty 
     good, apart from the chronic rust.  A friend offered to sell me his 
     '69 Delta-88 for dirt cheap (runs great!), but I dunno if it'll even 
     fit in the alley *period*, much less take up an inconspicuous corner.
     
     I have about zero experience with small cars (apart from fixing my 
     fiance's old Chevette.  Just fixed it enough to sell it).  I'm sure I 
     can handle any repairs (esp. on older models) and I don't mind fixing 
     a thing or two to get a cheap car, but I don't want something I'll be 
     fixing every week.
     
     So.... anybody got any good suggestions?
     
     Tom L.

------------------------------

From: Fernando Proietto <proietto@dow.on.doe.ca>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 02:39:34 -0300
Subject: Re: May27 - 3 Q's 

SG Hartfelder wrote:
>.
>.
> 2.  After driving the Olds around for about an hour yesterday I got it back
> into it's garage and turned it off.  Then, a few minutes later when I went
> to restart it, It sort of turned over for a second then the starter just
> started to click.  I tried about 10 more times with the same result.  After
> leaving it alone for about 2 hours I tried again and after a slight pause it
> started fine.  Any ideas what it could be or where I should start diagnosing
> the problem?
>

When I installed my headers I got te same symptom. The heat from the exhaust was affecting 
the
starter selonoid. Heat will do this, hence after 2 hours, everything cooled down it worked. 
You
may have to install a heat shield around the starter.

- --
Regards
Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 17:04:01 -0300
Subject: Re: Beater suggestions 

Oh, jeez, we could go all over the map on this one, so I'll try not to
waste too much bandwidth...

>     My two primary concerns are money and space.  Under $500 (preferably 
>     about $300) and small enough to only kill a minimal-sized patch of 
>     grass in the back alleyway.

With that price range, it's a total crapshoot: a car in running condition
would sell at that price either because you're friends with the seller and
getting it as a favor, or the seller knows nothing about car prices. There
are also other possible reasons but I won't get into them.  :-)

>     I know most people here think similarly 
>     to myself (full-size, RWD, V8, Olds) when it comes to car tastes, so 
>     I'm wondering if anyone here has any suggestions for cars.

Okay, if that's what you're after and are willing to bend the definition
of "full-size", I would go with a 4-door Cutlass or Cutlass Cruiser wagon.
The body style is pretty similar all the way back to, what, 1978, and with
a post-1980 model you get computer control, which gives you half a chance
to successfully tune it and diagnose problems, which will save you money
in gas bills if nothing else. Plus you get all the usual options, a nice
interior, good gauges (or swap them in), room to haul more than two people
in comfort and a lot of non-human cargo as well. Just my $.02...

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: David Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Sat, 25 May 1996 18:09:23 -0300
Subject: Re: '68 442

At 10:45 AM 5/28/96 -0300, you wrote:
>That is, 'Firm asking price of $650. What does everyone think?'

$650 sounds high...with no engine...

>A few more questions:
>Does anyone know what the factory colors were in '68 for 442's? The car is
>currently blue-gray.

The 68 442 pictured in the book (see below) is black, with a "vertical
racing stripe, option W-36".  The stripe is white, on the side of the front
fenders, behind the wheel well opening.  It extended from the bottom edge of
the fender to the top edge, where the body line is.  

The 68 H/O was silver w/black stripes.

>What did the deck stripe(s) look like? Single or Double? Colors?
>I am under the impression that this car was not offered with a 455 AND the
>manual trans.

455 was only available on the H/O, which had a Turbo Hydra-Matic.  Both
Turbo Hydra-Matic and 4 speed manual were available on the 442.

The following quotes are from the book "Oldsmobile: The Performance Years"
by Martin L Schorr.  His book has a reprint from a presentation made by a
Hurst executive to the Press regarding the introduction of a
limited-production specialty car

The 68 H/O had a 455 with a "Modified Turbo Hydra-Matic transmission,
insuring complete manual control"

There is a list of "mandatory options" that are "also to be ordered" when a
customer orders a 442 (not an H/O).
They are:
"W-45 -- Includes forced air induction system, G70 x 14" Goodyear white
stripe   poly-glass tires and special conversion preparation.  (Option W-46
should be    designated in lieu of W-45 if option C-60, air conditioning, is
ordered)
 G-80 -- Anti-spin rear axle
 J-52 -- Power front disc brakes
 M-40 -- Turbo Hydra-Matic transmission 
 G-88 -- 3.91-to-1 axle (G-90 -- 3.08-to-1 axle ratio with air
conditioning.)    Interior trim black, Trim #30 (not available with bench seat)"
 
"The 442 came stock with a 350-hp 400-inch engine, but could be ordered with
a special 290-hp Highway motor or rare 360-hp Ram-Air package...Good
suspension...was standard, as were...Hurst shifters."

>What is correct? a 400? a 350? Can we tell by the VIN #?

Can't tell from the book I have.

>Darren Shroeger
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

 "I was put on this earth to accomplish a certain number of things;
    right now I'm so far behind, I'll never die"  --Calvin

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 19:31:07 -0300
Subject: Re: '68 442 

Found a '68 442 Holiday Hardtop (no post) project car. This car was 
supposedly in a barn for 22 years.
No motor, but has the Muncie 4 spd w/ Hurst 442 shifter & bell housing & 
flywheel.
All logos are there, as are grilles, bumpers, lenses.
Appears to have had rt. rear quarter replaced some years ago. Small rust 
hole on seam where joined to rocker.
Otherwise, very rust free for a Northern Michigan car.
          
Firm asking price or $650. What does everyone think?
          
          
          I think you should pass.  By the way, what's the phone 
          number of the seller?  ;)
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30 (one can never own enough)
          69 H/O
          70 W-30
          
          

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 19:29:22 -0300
Subject: Re: Lye, PBrakes 

  Then, the other day, as I was extracting pcs off a Caddy that donated its
403... the answer occured to me! Diesels got power brakes from a hydraulic unit 
that used power steering pressure! There ya go... power brakes, power steering, 
AND a rowdy cam... Problem solved. Yet another use for Diesel cars!

          
          Great minds DO think alike.  I actually went so far as to 
          extract the hydroboost unit and master cylinder from a 
          diesel Cutlass (perhaps the first car justified to carry the 
          knickname "Gutless") for installation in my '71 Cutlass (462 
          with dual quads, N2O, and rump-rump cam).  Unfortunately, 
          the ex got that one!  (What was that about a good use for 
          Chevy engine blocks...).  I actually got the idea from my 
          crewcab dually, which comes from the factory with a 
          hydraulic boost on the brakes (and it's not even a diesel!). 
          Currently have the hydroboost in storage pending the need on 
          another project.  Note that the unit I have also has the 
          composite (aluminum body/plastic reservoir) master cylinder 
          for weight savings.
          
          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com
          
          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: David Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Sat, 25 May 1996 18:34:08 -0300
Subject: Re: '68 442

At 06:09 PM 5/25/96 -0300, you wrote:

>Both
>Turbo Hydra-Matic and 4 speed manual were available on the 442.
 

>"mandatory options" that are "also to be ordered" 
> M-40 -- Turbo Hydra-Matic transmission 

Uhh, I just saw this, I seem to have contradicted myself, let me check this...

Yes both were available on the 442, but only Turbo Hydra-Matic on the H/O.
If a customer ordered an H/O, a 442 was ordered with the Turbo Hydra-Matic
for conversion to an H/O...sorry about that...
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

 "I was put on this earth to accomplish a certain number of things;
    right now I'm so far behind, I'll never die"  --Calvin

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Tue, 28 May 1996 18:39:30 -0300
Subject: Re: Lye, PBrakes

This isn't the infamous "Power master" or whatever it was called that was 
used on Grand Nationals is it?  From what I hear, such a system is one of 
the major areas on stock GN's that need attention as it breaks down 
rather frequently...

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #188
********************************

