
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

oldsmobile-digest        Saturday, 24 February 1996     Volume 01 : Number 101


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: urbanch@magi.com (Chris Urban)
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 21:34:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Main bearing cap bolts

Yes Glenn they are  the same. Just make sure your holes are clean or you
could split your block if you tighten them with dirt in the bottom.


>Can anyone tell me if the main bearing cap bolts in a 455ci. are the
>same as the small block 307ci.  It seams that a couple of the cap
>bolts for my 455ci. are stretched. Actually I thought they had
>bottomed out when I was tightening them up to seat the crank before I
>was to plastic-guage them.  I retapped the block and still had a
>great deal of resistance so I ran the bolts through a die and they
>ran in a little easier. I'm not real comfortable with that so I
>figured I better change them out.  I have access to a junk 307ci. and
>wondered if they were the same bolt.  Any ideas?
>
>Glenn
>'69 4-4-2
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: ad351@yfn.ysu.edu (Linda Zuccaro)
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 23:31:02 -0400
Subject: engine year

I've got a 350 Olds engine [from a Chevy truck no less]
but, I would like to find what year it is.  Any ideas?


Casting #:  395558  2
Oil fill tube:  6233377

- --
Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not
thus handicapped.                        Abel Stevens
Politeness is chosing among ones real thoughts.
                                         Abel Stevens

------------------------------

From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 17:33:43 -0400
Subject: Posi Types - which is best

GM produced two internal types of posi rear ends in the middle 60's to
present, that I am aware of.  The clutch pack is one type, the other is the
cone type.

Questions:
o Which will hold up to more abuse, is stronger?

o Which will last longer for everyday driving and occasional abuse?

o Which works better at delivering torque to the wheels (slips less, more
preload)?

o Which were available in 12 bolt and 10 bolt rears (maybe by gears sizes)?

o Personal experience with rebuilding them yourself, rebuild tips, good
books/manuals on the subject, longevity, power application?

o Anyone running a locker on the street more than 3000 miles a year?

o Any info on older posi diffs?

Thanks!

David Brown
dbrown@mcis.bsd.uchicago.edu    (312) 702-9157
"Oldsmobile - powerful roadsters with big V8s"

------------------------------

From: "Dal Allan" <dal_allan@mcimail.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 00:11:58 -0400
Subject: Gremlins

This is for all of you who like finding black cats in dark rooms:

Bug #1
- ------
Take one 88 Buick wagon with an anemic 307 Olds motor and start it on a
Northern California morning when there is dew on windshield. I need to be
specific about 'cold', that's about 45-50 degrees around here and we rarely
get to freezing point. We had a frost this morning and it made the news!

  Scenario 1                       Scenario 2
  ------------                     ------------
  Start the wipers                 Turn on windscreen washer
  Turn off wipers                  Wipers keep wiping *
  Wipers keep wiping               Damn...
  Turn on windscreen washer        Stop car
  Maybe, wipers stop               Turn off ignition
  Damn...                          Turn on ignition
  Stop car                         Wipers park
  Turn off ignition
  Turn on ignition                 * The wipers should stop and park
  Wipers park                        automatically after a few swipes.

Whether it is 10 seconds later or 2 hours later or if car was running for
about 15 minutes before needing to use the wipers everything is normal:

  Scenario 1A                      Scenario 2A
  -----------                      -----------
  Start the wipers                 Turn on windscreen washer
  Turn off wipers                  Wipers sweep half a dozen times
  Wipers park                      Wipers park

I find it hard to believe that temperature has anything to do with the
problem but the continuous operation only occurs if the wipers are used in
the first few minutes after starting the car in the morning. I have never
had an incident when they kept going at any other time, and it can be 'cold'
around here in the middle of the day sometimes.....

I popped the connectors under the hood off, thinking it might be an oxidized
contact, but the poles are clean.

Bug #2
- ------
Take one 1972 air conditioned A-body convertible....

   Scenario 3
   ----------
   Turn on the air when the sun is beating down hard
   Drive for 5+ minutes with air on
   Park and turn off car
   Damn, air not working
   Turn off ignition, reach for a spare thermal fuse
   Pop the hood, get fresh laundered shirt grubby changing the fuse

I buy those thermal fuses by the 6-pack and scour every open hood I see when
in the junkyard so that there is always a supply in the console.

I've had three mechanics tell me 'not to worry about it' and am convinced
what they are really saying is they don't know what the fix is. I had one
guy claim splicing out the thermal fuse would work fine but hey, there has
to be a reason.

If it was an electronic fuse blowing I could see splicing in a mini-circuit
breaker instead because the automatic correction to an uncured problem would
be user-friendly. Having to pop the hood and fiddle is irritating and not
the kind of thing my wife is into.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Dal

P.S. For all who's like a beefed up 307, let me know when you figure out how
to get some torque out of the damned thing.

I'm thinking that changing the rear end would improve get up and go more
than redoing the motor (its only got 80K on it).

Does anybody have a clue on ratios that were available in 1988?

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 02:32:52 -0400
Subject: Re: mas info

Well to high performance purists, you're right, it doesn't make much
sense to have information on any engines but the most powerful.  However
there are also people who would like to hot rod the engine that came with
their cars, for the sake of having the original engine in it.  There are
also people who are not looking to build an engine for high performance
from the ground up but may want a smooth daily driver with increased
power (over stock), perhaps even without removing the engine at all.

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 02:38:15 -0400
Subject: Re: HO 307

What kind of heads are you planning on using.  I don't think stock 307 heads
are up to the task of getting you halfway to 12's or 13's.

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 02:39:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Main bearing cap bolts

I wouldn't recommend reusing main cap bolts.  Buy yourself a new set.
Better yet get studs.  Why put the engine back together only to have it
come apart a few miles down the road?

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 02:36:33 -0400
Subject: Re: HO 307

Maybe it's them damn CHEVY Turbo 350's you're using (or are you using an
adaptor plate?).  I had a well worn Olds turbo 350 (read: pieces in the
pan) behind a 455 which in stock form probably puts out more
trans-destroying torque than some of the more worked 350 Chevies...it
dont shift as crisp anymore and takes a while to go into gear but it sure
didn't disappear in a few seconds?

------------------------------

From: KPL442@aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 03:20:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Alternator detailing??

hey jeff,
long time no e-,eh?

i've been on the subject of components, date codes and especially
plating lately.  I do have the correct coded alternator for my '70 Cutlass
but it looks like hell. I'll call your friend to see about having it redone
but what is the correct plating?
My bigger concerns right now are getting the pwr brake booster and the
hood hinges plated correctly.
the booster, I believe, should be Zinc Dichromate, (aka gold irridite??).
I've found several places out of state that will rebuild & replate, but they
are somewhat expensive ($125-$150) and they take approx. 2 weeks.
 I may go with "Booster Dewey" in Oregon.  Does anyone have any
experience with this guy??
Jeff, do you know anyplace more local?
I have seen many, many cars that have the booster just painted.  I
would prefer to be correct/orginal if I can, especially on such a
prominent piece under the hood.
The hood hinges are done in Zinc Phosphate.  My originals cleaned
up very nicely and are almost usable, but have several unsightly
scratches.  The only place local (Oakland) that does zinc phosphate
wouldn't do car parts - for some reason I could'nt quite understand
over the phone - undecipherable foreign accent combined with no
logic.  I have also seen many (most) of these just painted on show cars.
Probably cause its tough to find someone to do it.
Any help??
Thanks.
Kevin
kpl442@aol.com

p.s.  Jeff how's the '69 H/O?  My Pace car is inching its way to completion.
Hopefully done in 2-3 weeks.

------------------------------

From: BYLN96A@prodigy.com ( GLENN CONNORS)
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 09:56:44 -0400
Subject: re: detailing

As far as detailing a brake vac booster you might try what I did.
First off mine had a good deal of surface rust so I took it and
blasted it with glass bead (not sand). It cleaned up real well.  BTW
this one wasn't the gold irridite (sp). I then used Rustoleum's Clear
Satin (aerosol) and I'm real pleased with the outcome.  The hood
hinges basically the same process but I sand blasted those instead of
glass bead. I also see that Rustoleum also has a couple plating
finishes out in aerosol.  One is cold galvanize and the other escapes
me right now. I'm sure that they can be found in a larger home
center/builders supply.  For $4-5 and a test piece may be well worth
it.

Glenn
'69 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: "Dal Allan" <dal_allan@mcimail.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 13:08:31 -0400
Subject: 71_Olds_cnvt_4_sale

Newsflash to those seeking a California convertible, saw the following in
this morning's San Jose Mercury News:

     Olds 71 convertible eye catcher, rebuilt engine,
     AT AC 1-owner VG condition  $5,500 to good home
     day 408-426-5880  eve/wkd 408-438-2604

No clues as to whether full size or Cutlass and phone did not answer when I
tried about 0830. If any of you call and get serious I can probably check it
out for you depending on my situation (I travel a lot on business).

BTW, the same paper has a 1977 Rolls Royce Silver Shadow II w/all leather
interior in excellent condition and <51K miles at $20K.

Even with no interest in RRs, that makes me wonder what it would be like to
own one? Its not often that you can buy status at such a low price. Of
course, neighbor envy, target for burglary, makes the downside look damn
right unattractive.

Just thinking that my two old cars would buy me a Roller and fill it with
gas for a couple of years is disturbing. Can one RR match two convertibles
for pleasure and enjoyment? Better not ask my wife.

Anybody even know what a Silver Shadow II looks like?
Is it the model which looks like a full-size Ford gone awry?
If so, forget it, on the other hand if it has those sweeping fenders....

Dal

------------------------------

From: Rocketeer <bparker@nmsu.edu>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 13:29:59 -0400
Subject: Re: (no subject)

>
> Enough about my "needs"  I have a question now.  This '67 CS of mine
> looks like it was stored in a South Western desert garage.  Everything is
> stock.  It has four working "T3" headlight with a Pyramid shaped symbol
> molded into the glass.  My brother says that they are rare and would
> bring $50 bucks each at a swap-meet.  I can't believe that.
>
> So are these lights any big deal?

Find out what swap meet gets $50.00 a piece for the early style T-3's,
I've got at least $3,000 worth in my garage...

In the "correctness" madness of a few years ago I could get that much for a
good set of four. The reproductions and the declining interest of factory
originality have made the market really slow. Put them in a nice safe
box and get yourself a good set of halogens.

Boyd

------------------------------

From: Bob0Barry@aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 13:48:46 -0400
Subject: Re: How much is my '68 Olds worth?

In a message dated 96-02-23 10:59:29 EST, you write:

>I am hoping someone (or many people) can help me determine the value of my
>car:
>
>1968 Olds Cutlass
>=================
>15k Original Miles
>Original Showroom condition
>Original Paint, Interior, etc.
>Honestly looks (and drives) like it just came off of showroom
>4 door

Sounds like an unique car (not because of the model, of which thousands still
exist, but because of the condition), but you'll have to wait to find the
right buyer, because it is a four-door.

There is a difference between the value of the car and the price you can get
someone to reasonably pay for it. For me, the prospect of driving a perfect
condition older car like yours, which has no special options and is quite
ordinary, would be weighed against driving a nice condition car with more
options or a 2-door version, which would be weighed against driving a ratty,
but more desireable version of the same car (442, convertible). Of those
three options, driving a ratty 442 sound most appealing, and I suspect you
can get one of those for around $1500 or so. The second most appealing option
would be a nice condition but ordinary 2-dr, for which I'd pay maybe $1000.
The least appealing is a perfect condition 4-dr; I wouldn't pay more than
$800 or so for the pleasure of driving the car, since the first two options
are available.

Now of course your car is much more valuable than that. As someone else
noted, however, you have to wait for someone whose priorities are a bit
different than mine. Then maybe you could get $2000-$3000 for it; maybe more
if the person has some sentimental attachment to 4-dr '68's.

Of course, this would be different if your car had the highway cruiser option
(they did offer the 2-bbl 400 in '68, didn't they?), full power, a/c, Super
Stock wheels, etc.

Good luck; it sounds like you've got quite a find there, but will have to
wait to get what the car is worth.

------------------------------

From: Bob0Barry@aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 13:48:39 -0400
Subject: 71 4-dr Olds for sale; what would this go for in your town?

[standing over the dead horse, he raises the stick to beat it a few more
times...]

Just a final note on the ridiculous prices people ask for cars in the
Northeast, I saw the following ad in my paper today:

$1,200 OBO, Olds Cutlass '71, 4dr, 78k orig mi, blown head gasket, 2nd owner,
many new parts w/receipts. 914-476-4143

In case you were interested in owning a 4-dr Cutlass in need of major engine
work, this car is located in Westchester county.

What, though, would a car like this go for in your area? This is a car that,
while not exactly beater condition, is not a collectible car by any stretch
of the imagination; what would you *pay* for such a thing? (assuming 350
motor, some rust) What do people ask for cars in this condition in your town?
I'm trying to determine exactly what it is that they are putting in the NY
drinking water...

------------------------------

From: eric_buckner@non-hp-om.cv.hp.com
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 14:12:23 -0400
Subject: RE:HO 307

Item Subject: cc:Mail Text
     >>damn CHEVY Turbo 350's you're using<<
     I knew I'd get jumped on when I said that:) (did I say turbo? meant
     TH350), I stand corrected. And in less than well, considering that I
     never got out of first gear, I'd say 3-5 seconds my engine was up at
     6K and my tranny was set to liquify. The second wasn't shredded but,
     never shifted out of second again (up or down).
     Eric Buckner
     '64 F-85 deluxe
     Albany, OR

------------------------------

From: eric_buckner@non-hp-om.cv.hp.com
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 14:40:55 -0400
Subject: RE:71 4-dr Olds for sale; what would ....

Item Subject: cc:Mail Text
     Ad reads:
     '72 OLDS CUTLASS SUPREME
     2Dr Hard Top, 350 Rocket, Runs Excelent, 1700 OBO.
     (in Portland)

     Eric Buckner
     '64 F-85 deluxe
     Albany, OR

------------------------------

From: Bob0Barry@aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 15:11:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Gremlins

In a message dated 96-02-23 23:57:10 EST, you write:

>This is for all of you who like finding black cats in dark rooms:
>
>Bug #1
>------
>Take one 88 Buick wagon with an anemic 307 Olds motor and start it on a
>Northern California morning when there is dew on windshield. I need to be
>specific about 'cold', that's about 45-50 degrees around here and we rarely
>get to freezing point. We had a frost this morning and it made the news!
>
>  Scenario 1                       Scenario 2
>  ------------                     ------------
>  Start the wipers                 Turn on windscreen washer
>  Turn off wipers                  Wipers keep wiping *
>  Wipers keep wiping               Damn...
>  Turn on windscreen washer        Stop car
>  Maybe, wipers stop               Turn off ignition
>  Damn...                          Turn on ignition
>  Stop car                         Wipers park
>  Turn off ignition
>  Turn on ignition                 * The wipers should stop and park
>  Wipers park                        automatically after a few swipes.
>
>Whether it is 10 seconds later or 2 hours later or if car was running for
>about 15 minutes before needing to use the wipers everything is normal:
>
>  Scenario 1A                      Scenario 2A
>  -----------                      -----------
>  Start the wipers                 Turn on windscreen washer
>  Turn off wipers                  Wipers sweep half a dozen times
>  Wipers park                      Wipers park
>
>I find it hard to believe that temperature has anything to do with the
>problem but the continuous operation only occurs if the wipers are used in
>the first few minutes after starting the car in the morning. I have never
>had an incident when they kept going at any other time, and it can be 'cold'

>around here in the middle of the day sometimes.....
>
>I popped the connectors under the hood off, thinking it might be an oxidized

>contact, but the poles are clean.

Well, that same black cat bit me and my Olds-powered '78 Buick Electra with
intermittent wipers. The contacts in the relay under the plastic cover are
sticking; my problem showed up only when it was under 30 degrees and it was
wet out (this was up in Boston)- wipers kept on wiping after I had pressed
the wash button, after I turned off the wipers, whatever. Even turning the
car off and on again didn't solve it; I had to drive around for a while
looking like an idiot with my wipers going until the contact decided to free
itself up.

My fix: well, I didn't really have one. I shot a lot of WD40 on the contact,
and was going to file it down to clean it up once the weather warmed up, but
by the time it warmed up the wipers weren't sticking on so I kind of forgot
about it. Since then, especially in the cold, the wipers tend to "delay"
turning themselves off, but never more than an extra stroke or two.

Your problem is contamination on the contact points in that relay, which is
part of the wiper motor. Apart from getting a new wiper motor, you can take
off the plastic cover and spray some WD40, or better, an electrical contact
cleaner (from Radio Shack), and perhaps even try getting in there with an
ignition file to clean up the contacts. The moisture is making the
contaminants sticky, and causing your problem.

Good luck; I don't have a clue about gremlin #2.

------------------------------

From: Bob0Barry@aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 15:10:59 -0400
Subject: 71 442 convt. 4spd for sale

Just saw this for sale on the r.a.r-n-c list, if anyone is in the market:

>'71 Original Olds 442 Conv. Gold w/ Black Stripe
>- A Real Virgin Car
>- Garage Kepted
>- Just a super clean car
>- Black Interior
>- Bucket Seats
>- Ram Hood
>- 4spd
>- Original Motor
>- New Brakes
>- New Suspension parts
>- Very low miles
>- Runs GREAT!!!!!
>- LOOKS GREAT!!!!
>- Super FAST!!!!
>Price $12,500
>
>Email me, visualg@gate.net (Jim Houston), if you want to talk about these
cars. Can >provide pictures on the net....Possible video
>
>Let's talk about the prices!!!!!

Don't e-mail me personally; I just saw this and remember someone on this list
was looking for a 4-speed, and someone else wanted a convertible. He also has
some Corvettes for sale, but you can look them up yourself...

------------------------------

From: <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 15:38:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Exhaust question

>     Anybody out there know of anyplace out there that has headers to go
>into an '81 (Ok, Gen. 3 A/G body) Cutlass with a 455?  Hooker makes a set
>(#3202) but wants over $300 for 'em.  Anyone seen any that perhaps our
>government could afford?


Charlie,

My 2 cents: Swallow your pride on the cost of the Hookers. I bought my
first pair last year
for a 350 that I built. I have bought the off brands before and there
are significant quality
differences. You will find that Hooker has a flange area over 1/8"
thicker than anybody else.
Also, weld quality, compared to the competition, well, you can't
compare at all. I highly
recommend their product from personal experience. Don't forget that you
are going to need to
ceramic coat those headers and the Jet-Hot Co. is THE place to have
that service done. The
bad news is that will run you another $300.

Another tidbit, I saved over $100 by shopping around for the Hookers,
Mondello was expensive.

Good Luck,
Mike


<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Michael R. Hall               Ortonville, Michigan
E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com
Owner: 1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

------------------------------

From: Bob0Barry@aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 17:45:47 -0400
Subject: Re: 71 4-dr Olds for sale; what would ....

In a message dated 96-02-24 13:47:18 EST, you write:

>     Ad reads:
>     '72 OLDS CUTLASS SUPREME
>     2Dr Hard Top, 350 Rocket, Runs Excelent, 1700 OBO.
>     (in Portland)

Now see, that's not a ridiculous price, if in fact it is in decent shape
(what kind of rust would you expect on it?). It is actually a car I would
want to drive.

How often, though, do you see cars like this advertised in the local papers,
as just "normal" cars? Here in NY, this is perhaps the first pre-'78 A-body
Olds I've seen advertised in any shape for the last two months. Maybe the
winters and roads and thieves here have been harder on the older cars, and a
'71 Cutlass 4-dr *is* a rare car, for us.

------------------------------

From: eric_buckner@non-hp-om.cv.hp.com
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 18:04:10 -0400
Subject: To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca

Item Subject: cc:Mail Text
     >     >And how can you make an object go forward when you animate it
     around >     >a path. Like instead of it going arould and not
     turning...
     >
     >     You're going to have to move ahead in frames and actually rotate
     the >     object to fit the path  at each curve...

     No....I think he needs to select the "Look Ahead" function, tS will
     take care of the rest.
     *MM*

     Does "look ahead" work in all three directions ie. follow a three
     dimensional path??

------------------------------

From: eric_buckner@non-hp-om.cv.hp.com
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 18:16:21 -0400
Subject: Re: 71 4-dr Olds for sale; what would ....

Item Subject: cc:Mail Text
     >>(what kind of rust would you expect on it?)
     Up in Portland there is a pretty good possibility of rust especialy in
     the fender-wells due to the roads being salted so often during the
     winter....but down here in the valley there is signifigantly less.

     >>this is perhaps the first pre-'78 A-body Olds I've seen advertised
     >>in any shape for the last two months. Maybe the winters and roads
     >>and thieves here have been harder on the older cars, and a '71
     >>Cutlass 4-dr *is* a rare car, for us.

     Maybe its because a lot of the people who have these cars moved to
     where they could drive them....like Montana!!:)

     Eric Buckner
     '64 F-85 deluxe
     Albany, OR

------------------------------

From: eric_buckner@non-hp-om.cv.hp.com
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 18:23:45 -0400
Subject: Re: 71 4-dr Olds for sale; what would ....

Item Subject: cc:Mail Text
     Should have been included with my last....

     >>How often, though, do you see cars like this advertised in the local
     >>papers, as just "normal" cars?

     Fairly often, people don't start getting jumpy about prices until they
     get into the early to late sixties. So if you're into the 70's era you
     could probably find a lot of cars you like for cheap around here.
     Especially Oldsmobile's, there are about a million Camaro's, Mustangs
     and, Cougars around and Olds' get overlooked quite often.
     Eric Buckner
     '64 F-85 deluxe
     Albany, OR

------------------------------

From: urbanch@magi.com (Chris Urban)
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 18:34:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Exhaust question

>>I've had good luck with them as well.
>
>Charlie,
>
>My 2 cents: Swallow your pride on the cost of the Hookers. I bought my
>first pair last year
>for a 350 that I built. I have bought the off brands before and there
>are significant quality
>differences. You will find that Hooker has a flange area over 1/8"
>thicker than anybody else.
>Also, weld quality, compared to the competition, well, you can't
>compare at all. I highly
>recommend their product from personal experience. Don't forget that you
>are going to need to
>ceramic coat those headers and the Jet-Hot Co. is THE place to have
>that service done. The
>bad news is that will run you another $300.
>
>Another tidbit, I saved over $100 by shopping around for the Hookers,
>Mondello was expensive.
>
>Good Luck,
>Mike
>
>
><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>Michael R. Hall               Ortonville, Michigan
>E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com
>Owner: 1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 19:22:20 -0400
Subject: Re: 71_Olds_cnvt_4_sale

Dal, for what it's worth, there's a '71 Rolls advertised in the paper
here (Halifax) for $18K Canadian. I think it's the one I saw driving
around here last week (Halifax isn't that big) and it sure gets
attention! But I'd still rather have a 4-4-2 convert from that same year...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: <pmrobjr@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 19:20:41 -0400
Subject: Re:   '66 Toronado questions?

Umm..  I just found one car that nice 1966 Toronado in Tennessee, I
asked a man how much cost that car to sell and the man asked for $4600
dollars based on the price guide as good condition, however I think
that car should be $3500 dollars because that car hasn't run for about
4 years.  and what's more it has 1967 taillights instead of 1966's,
trunk key locking is missing and paint (gold) is dull also has some
patches on the rear right corner was just a little dent. I need our
feedback before I will decide to buy one with trade my 1952 Olds.
Thanks PMRjr  owner of 1952 Rocket Olds Super 88 and 1967 Olds Cutlass
Supreme...

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 19:35:10 -0400
Subject: Re: How much is my '68 Olds worth?

On Sat, 24 Feb 1996 Bob0Barry@aol.com wrote:
> There is a difference between the value of the car and the price you can get
> someone to reasonably pay for it. For me, the prospect of driving a perfect
> condition older car like yours, which has no special options and is quite
> ordinary, would be weighed against driving a nice condition car with more
> options or a 2-door version, which would be weighed against driving a ratty,
> but more desireable version of the same car (442, convertible). Of those
> three options, driving a ratty 442 sound most appealing, and I suspect you
> can get one of those for around $1500 or so. The second most appealing
option > would be a nice condition but ordinary 2-dr, for which I'd pay maybe
$1000. > The least appealing is a perfect condition 4-dr; I wouldn't pay more
than > $800 or so for the pleasure of driving the car, since the first two
options > are available.

Bob, with all due respect, I think you're dreaming. You might be able to
get condition #5 4-4-2s for your $1,500 but I'd doubt they'd be driveable
for long. As for a "good condition" 2-dr for $1,000, all I can say is
that your definition of good condition must be a lot different than mine.
Realistically, around here *nothing* in the classifieds sells for less
than $1,000... I mean, not even winter beater '84 Chevettes. To expect to
find a late 60s or early 70s Cutlass in what I'd consider good condition
you'd be looking at many thousands more. And geez, you could part out a
perfect condition 4-door for a lot more than $800. The car is worth a lot
more than that because of the uniqueness alone. Someone out there would
pay a few thou for it, as you say later.

> Of course, this would be different if your car had the highway cruiser
option > (they did offer the 2-bbl 400 in '68, didn't they?), full power, a/c,
Super > Stock wheels, etc.

I think the only 400 in '68 aside from the 4-4-2 was in the Vista
Cruiser. Don't think you could get one in a regular Cutlass, but stand to
be corrected.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

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From: MATVille@aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 20:15:00 -0400
Subject: '88 Cutlass Ciera stalling problem

A friend of mine has a stalling problem.  When his Ciera is idling at a stop
light it stalls.  He has taken it to the local olds dealer and they can't
seem to solve the problem.  He said they replaced everything electrical and
that didn't work.  Then they tried disconnecting the transmission solenoid.
 That didn't work.  Someone suggested replacing the mass air flow sensor or
an 02 sensor but he said that he had done that within the last year.

Knowing that I was on the internet he asked me to see if any of my friends
out there could come up with suggestions on what to try next.     Any ideas?
 Thanks for your help.

David in Pittsburgh

------------------------------

From: urbanch@magi.com (Chris Urban)
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 21:00:40 -0400
Subject: Re: '88 Cutlass Ciera stalling problem

Dave without getting your hands on the car it would be hard to diagnose




>A friend of mine has a stalling problem.  When his Ciera is idling at a stop
>light it stalls.  He has taken it to the local olds dealer and they can't
>seem to solve the problem.  He said they replaced everything electrical and
>that didn't work.  Then they tried disconnecting the transmission solenoid.
> That didn't work.  Someone suggested replacing the mass air flow sensor or
>an 02 sensor but he said that he had done that within the last year.
>
>Knowing that I was on the internet he asked me to see if any of my friends
>out there could come up with suggestions on what to try next.     Any ideas?
> Thanks for your help.
>
>David in Pittsburgh
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: JK McCall <jkmccall@QBC.Clic.Net>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 1996 00:16:00 -0400
Subject: Re: '88 Cutlass Ciera stalling problem

MATVille@aol.com wrote:
>
> A friend of mine has a stalling problem.  When his Ciera is idling at a stop
> light it stalls.  He has taken it to the local olds dealer and they can't
> seem to solve the problem.  He said they replaced everything electrical and
> that didn't work.  Then they tried disconnecting the transmission solenoid.
>  That didn't work.  Someone suggested replacing the mass air flow sensor or
> an 02 sensor but he said that he had done that within the last year.
>

> out there could come up with suggestions on what to try next.     Any ideas?


check vacumn hoses....could be the problem if one has been disconnected
or non-functional

------------------------------

From: <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 1996 22:57:33 -0400
Subject: TH700-R4 4-speed automatic

As the proud new owner of a corvette TH700-R4 for the princely sum of
$300, I wondered
how much fun I was in for to install the little beasty behind my pumped
up small block.

Lo and behold, while waiting to get my wifes 1991 Olds 88 repaired,
reading a recent copy
of Hot Rod, a article about a EXTENSION HOUSING direct from GM to fit
TH700-R4's in 68-72
GM A-body cars...

Those of you interested, the GM part number is 8673406.


As a side note, B-body brake kits are available from several
aftermarket companies.
Those of you who wish to put really big brakes on your A-Body contact:
H-O Racing Specialties (310) 973-7078
Global West Suspension Components (909) 923-6176
Hotchkiss Performance (310) 907-7757




<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Michael R. Hall               Ortonville, Michigan
E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com
Owner: 1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #101
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