
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

oldsmobile-digest         Friday, 23 February 1996      Volume 01 : Number 100


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jrjet@whidbey.net (Dot & Tim McChesney)
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 1996 20:56:57 -0400
Subject: 72 H/O for sale

Well, Olds fans! Found this one on accident, the car in question is a 72
H/O Pace Car vin# 3J57UZM215376 (hard to read his writing, might be off),
has 95,000 on odometer.  Gentleman wants 10,000 and it is in says in good
shape.  I haven't looked at yet, but if anyone is interested I will be more
than happy to go look at it and give it a test drive!!! The car is located
in Anacortes, Washington. This is about 2 hours north of Seattle.  Tim 71
Cut Convert

------------------------------

From: Dana and Mary Taylor <dmtaylor@top.monad.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 00:53:32 -0400
Subject: Re: V6 Swap

G. Douglas Burton wrote:
>
> >In a message dated 96-02-20 10:09:34 EST, you write:
> >
> I'm
> sure the carb needs rebuilt.  Sitting still in park, the car revs up just
> fine, no hesitation, except when cold.  Put the car on the highway under a
> pulling condition and there is simply no power.  Holding the gas to the
> floor will eventually result in a speed of about 60 (on level ground), but
> that is it!
>
> One last thing, I recall when this first happened, I was going up a hill and
> found that slowly pumping the gas resulted in slightly better performance,
> or at least made the engine gain speed better than just holding a steady
> pressure on the gas pedal.  As I said before, I was just driving normally
> when this problem occurred and it happened as if something in the engine
> changed all of a sudden.
> BTW, I checked the history of the Buick V6 on the homepage which features
> the Buick Regal.  The change from odd to even fire was made in early 1977.
> Given the way the car ran at first, I would have to say there is no problem
> with the firing order.
>
> Thanks to those who have suggested things to try so far and I certainly
> appreciate any further suggestions... Have you tried putting a vacuum guage
on the engine?? I t should idle at approx 18 to 22 in vacuum. the needle
should be steady. At idle if it is fluxuating below a normal reading it could
be a air leak in carb or intake gasket. If you open the throttle hard the
needle should drop to approx 10 -12 in and return to normal as engine reaches
speed. If you hold engine at 2200 -3000 for a second then drop throttle
closed the needle should hit 25 -27 in and then return to normal. You could
find a book to tell you what other readings mean. A skilled machanic can tune
a car using only a vacuum guage (pre computer of course). Another stupid
thing that once happened to me, was the hood insulation on a car i had once,
fell so as to block the intake horn on the air cleaner. When the hood was
open the car ran great. When you went down the road and got on the throttle
the insulation would flood the engine.  Good luck to ya!!

------------------------------

From: Dana and Mary Taylor <dmtaylor@top.monad.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 01:14:28 -0400
Subject: Re: 307 HO

Tom Lentz wrote:
>
>      Not a whole lot of difference.  I'm not sure if the 80 had a computer
>      or not, if it didn't then that's one big difference.  The only other
>      difference is a long-duration cam with stiffer valve springs, and I
>      think different plugs with a bigger gap (.080, wow!  I have trouble
>      finding a gauge that goes that wide).  I don't know what carb the 80
>      has, but the HO has a computer controlled quadrajet (I think 600cfm).
>
>      Heck, let's do this right.  I just got out the brocure on my '84 H/O
>      and here's the parts numbers for the engine:
>
>      Long Duration cam shaft            22519934
>      High Rate Valve springs            22510372
>      Harmonic Balancer                  417142
>      Rochester 4MV carb                 17083553
>      Dual Snorkel Air Cleaner Assy.     25042690
>      Intermediate Exhaust Pipe          22516113
>      Muffler and Tailpipe Right         22526204
>      Muffler and Tailpipe Left          22526205
>
>
>      Tom.
>
> ______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ > Subject: 307 HO > Author:
oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET > Date:    2/20/96 6:46 PM > > I was
just wondering what the difference is between a mid-eighties > 307HO, and say
a 80 307?  Maybe a cam, intake???  How easy are these > to swap onto each
other? > > Dink > 80 Delta 88 Royale (now with Rallye's) > > { > Dink
Dayton, Ohio > http://homepages.udayton.edu/students/heinle/ > } > I would
like to know how to read the engine numbers to deturmine if a motor is th HO
or not. Again I got nowhere with my dealer. I had one engine in the 83
cutlass supreme I drive now that went like he** but used 1 qt oil a day. I
drive a long way to work. It had a cylinder with only 35 lbs compression. It
had the alumimun intake (4bl). The 307 I have now runs great with 110
compression all around and a cast intake. It goes good but doesn't quite feel
as powerful as the other one. Thanks.

------------------------------

From: schmich@AZStarNet.com (John Schmich)
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 00:03:43 -0400
Subject: Dave Smith Engineering

I was just looking through the latest Car Craft and I saw an ad in the back
for Oldsmobile performance parts from Dave Smith Engineering.  I've heard
you guys talk about him before but I got a few questions (before I fork over
the $8) for those that have the catalog.   Does the catalog have a fair
amount of parts/information/advice for the 81-88 307?  Are the prices
comparable with Mondello?  Thanks.

Brandon

------------------------------

From: "Dal Allan" <dal_allan@mcimail.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 02:30:43 -0400
Subject: Re:Suspension_Stuff...Update

To Doug Ahern
   Bob Handren

Thanks for complementing my material, though you raise more questions than
answers.

My 67 (Cutlass Supreme) and 72 (GS455) have identical underpinnings with the
possible exception of the shock mounting that Bob mentioned. In fact, I
thought the Konis I bought for the GS were what I put on the Olds!

| > 68-72 front and rear wheels had a 1-2" wider spacing than 64-67's.  I
| > found this out when I swapped '70 Olds front wheel disks/spindles under
| > my '64.  The wheels are about 3/4" closer to the fenders now.

I did the same thing and can see no difference in the front at all. In fact
the car even has a set of wheels off a Nova 350 which had wider wheels to
mount on the front & there are no clearance problems or visual difference to
an untouched 67.

The show guys ding you for trivial things like hose clamps and can go
overboard laying penalties on 'retrified' cars. I have been in shows and
alongside identical cars no one has noticed a difference in track width.
I'll take a measure to the next show.

| > The same goes for the rear axle.

The rear footprint is the same between the 67 and 72.

I pulled out some brochures to check Front/Rear Track and learned that there
is a 1" rolling change by year! Between 65 and 66 there may well have been a
change from 5 1/2" to 6" wheels that would account for an 1" but certainly
not different between front and rear. What did Olds use for a tape measure?

          1965     58/58
          1966-67  58/59
          1968-72  59/59

Both my cars are convertibles and the same anti-sway bar fits both (I've
checked Addco out and am just awaiting the Spring 'get ready for summer fun'
work ethic to kick in. According to Addco you do not need the boxed control
arms. The guy was kinda cadgy for some reason but I suspect they ship a
sleeve which fits inside the control arm to stiffen it (that's what GM did
when they mounted the 73+ cars with bars).

| >                        70-81 camaro spindles and disks will also fit
| > 64-72 GM A-bodies, however it radically changes the suspension geometery
| > and lowers the front end an 1" or so.

This switch should definitely only be done if you are into self-maintenance
and/or are seriously racing the car e.g. if the next owner ever needed to
get something done to the suspension he would need to know which are
specialty pieces (there are several to make the conversion work).

| > Fast-ratio boxes were supplied on the GS and the 442 and they ran either
2.6 | > or 2.8 turns so were not much different to the 3 of the regular box.
The big

> I pulled a 2.6 vari-ratio box off of a '70 cutlass 4 door once, so they
> are out there on more common junkyard bombers perhaps.  this is a big
> improvement for a 64-67 cultass.

Thanks for the tip, I'll look more closely. Is there any way to recognize a
2.6 box other than turning the steering wheel?

It's a bear to check if steering lock still in place on car in the junkyard.

> Tip on removing springs: tie.....

Thanks.

------------------------------

From: clark@sh28.dseg.ti.com (Pat Clark 952-3776)
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 10:11:16 -0400
Subject: Rally-Pac Update

	Well, after cleaning up the gauge package I hooked them up and let them
rip. The gas gauge worked WOOO-WHO, the temp gauge worked WOOO-WHO, the oil
pressure gauge DOOOOH! I guess I'll have to send it off and get it fixed. I
also tested the TIC TOC TACH out. The tach worked great but not the clock.
Stupid question here: when I had the tack hooked up under the hood and went to
ground it, would shock me. I finally had to get an insulated screwdriver to
hold it down. Is this to be expected?

          ___              ___        _________
         /   |            /   |      /         \
        /    |           /    |     |   ___    |
       /     |          /     |     |__|   |   |
      /      |         /      |           /   /
     /       |        /       |          /   /
    /   /|   |       /   /|   |         /   /
   /   /_|   |__    /   /_|   |__      /   /
  |             |  |             |    /   /
  |______     __|  |______     __|   /   /_____
         |   |            |   |     |          |      Pat Clark
         |___|            |___|     |__________|       69 442


   "Just your average 300+hp garage hogging, gas sucking, money pit"

------------------------------

From: eric_buckner@non-hp-om.cv.hp.com
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 10:37:19 -0400
Subject: RE: Mystery Yard..and Fuel pump searching...

Item Subject: cc:Mail Text
     >The old number for Classic Auto Parts is (208) 667-3428.  The
     >other number I have written down is (208) 762-8080

     >Scott
     >1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98


     Thanks Scott I'll give them a try.


     Eric Buckner
     '64 F-85 deluxe
     Albany, OR

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 11:35:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Rally-Pac Update

>Well, after cleaning up the gauge package I hooked them up and let them
>rip. The gas gauge worked WOOO-WHO, the temp gauge worked WOOO-WHO,

Um, WOOO-WHO is good, right?  :-)  Guess I need to read that out loud in
my best Homer Simpson voice...

>the oil
>pressure gauge DOOOOH! I guess I'll have to send it off and get it fixed.

Is that mechanical or electric? There's more diagnosis you might want to
do before shipping anything out.

>I also
>tested the TIC TOC TACH out. The tach worked great but not the clock.

Try our shade-tree clock solution of fogging a brief squirt of WD-40
(without the extension tube) through the backlighting holes in the back
of the clock case.

>Stupid question here: when I had the tack hooked up under the hood and
>went to ground it, it would shock me. I finally had to get an insulated
>screwdriver to hold it down. Is this to be expected?

Not in my experience. Perhaps the coil is cracked. You were sticking the
wire on one of the side terminals, right? And there were no stray strands
getting too close to the center terminal? You might want to clean the top
of the coil and check for hairline cracks, or for deteriorated coil wire
insulation. It sounds like some of the firing charge is leaking through
insulation somewhere, and your tach wire is a convenient ground for it.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Adobe Systems, Inc. (formerly Frame Technology)
Advanced Product Services
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: eric_buckner@non-hp-om.cv.hp.com
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 11:43:02 -0400
Subject: Parts just a half hour away...

Item Subject: cc:Mail Text
     Well gentleman, I'm back from my excursion into parts ville USA.
     Here's what came out of it.

     '60, '61 Bonn's turned out to be Catalinas, the 68 88 was MIA and the
     70 88 was in the custody of one 25 year old derby racer who just so
     happens to be the yard owners son. So NoGo on the carb or any chrome
     ect. for the 88's but I will be going back up to pull some stuff for
     Cary (as it turns out Bonn's and Catalinas have the same chrome).
     Which brings me to one of the high points of the trip. I ran into a
     nice '75 H/O louvered hood (the rest of the car got derbied to death
     without the hood) that belongs to the son. He asked 100$ on the spot
     so 85$ might get it. Anyone interested?

     Eric Buckner
     '64 F-85 deluxe
     Albany, OR

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 11:41:33 -0400
Subject: Re: (no subject)

>Working T3 low beams might bring $30 or so, depending on the area you're
>in.  Probably less ever since they started making repros of them which
>sell for about $90.00 per set of 4.  High beams are no big deal and used
>ones go for much less.

>From what I've read about them in Cars & Parts, there are T-3s, and then
there are T-3s. The really old ones are more valuable and can be identified
by a slightly different triangle -- clear vs. striped, or something like
that. I forget the details, but as Greg says:

>While they're nice and original, if you want to drive the car even
>semi-regularly I'd get them out of there and put in a set of halogen
>sealed beams. T3s are simply terrible headlights.

Right, those old tungsten lights just get dimmer with age, and if yours
do have any cash value, you might as well take advantage of it now. Pop
them out, clean them up and box 'em up until the next swap meet.

I've been meaning to write something about fixing up old headlight
assemblies sometime... Anyhow, treat yourself to some nice halogens;
no point in banging into somebody you can't see!

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Adobe Systems, Inc. (formerly Frame Technology)
Advanced Product Services
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 11:47:57 -0400
Subject: Do you subscribe to Cars & Parts?

This is purely for my own curiosity; one of the customers I support
for our database publishing systems is Amos Press, and one of their
publications (though not one produced by our system) is Cars & Parts.
The topic of this list came up in conversation with them one day, and
I was just curious as to how many people here knew of their magazine,
or even subscribed to it.

If you don't, you can ignore this, but if you do (either subscribe or
simply read it occasionally), please let me know. I'm just curious for
a head count; this is not for Amos Press and needless to say, none of
this is for advertising, mailing lists or junk Email in any way...

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Adobe Systems, Inc. (formerly Frame Technology)
Advanced Product Services
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Ross A. Goldberg" <loki@computek.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 11:54:23 -0400
Subject: How much is my '68 Olds worth?

Hello,

I am hoping someone (or many people) can help me determine the value of my
car:

1968 Olds Cutlass
=================
15k Original Miles
Original Showroom condition
Original Paint, Interior, etc.
Honestly looks (and drives) like it just came off of showroom
4 door

The original owner of this car had bought it in '68 and then quickly became
ill and had the car garaged for all these years.  My brother bought it about
a year ago, brought it back to perfect condition (some rubber had dried out,
etc) and now the car is mine (due to an unfortunate situation) and I am
needing to sell it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.  I will get more details on the car
as soon as I can.

Thanks,
Ross
//------------------------------------
// Ross A. Goldberg (aka Loki)
// http://www.computek.net/public/loki
// loki@computek.net

------------------------------

From: Dan Dale <daleds@okra.millsaps.edu>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 12:04:27 -0400
Subject: RE: Do you subscribe to Cars & Parts?

I just bought the latest issue the other day.  They also sent me
a subscription offer last week.

Dan Dale
'72 Olds 98 Hearse (not Hurst)

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 03:53:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Dave Smith Engineering

     No, they don't have much for the later model cutlass's and their
     "small" V8's.  There's some, but you have to hunt to find it.

     However, most of the small-block stuff is interchangeable meaning the
     parts from a 350 will usually work on a 307.

     Prices are comparable with Mondello -- High.  Some things are cheaper,
     some more expensive (like head porting).

     Still, not a bad $8. . .  Wish I could loan ya mine to check out.  If
     you're a member of the OCA, you might want to mention that.  Some
     suppliers will give free catalogs to OCA members.

     Tom.


______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Dave Smith Engineering Author:
oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET Date:    2/22/96 8:46 PM


I was just looking through the latest Car Craft and I saw an ad in the back
for Oldsmobile performance parts from Dave Smith Engineering.  I've heard you
guys talk about him before but I got a few questions (before I fork over the
$8) for those that have the catalog.   Does the catalog have a fair amount of
parts/information/advice for the 81-88 307?  Are the prices comparable with
Mondello?  Thanks.

Brandon




------------------------------

From: Sandy Stewart <WASTEWART@gov.pe.ca>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 12:08:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Rally-Pac Update -Reply

Regarding the WD-40 trick for bringing old clocks back to life, if you have
a tic-toc-tac of 70-72 vintage, it will not have a back light to remove.  The
fogging method won't work, because there is no opening large enough in
the clock case in which to stck the a spray nozzle.  Instead, I attached
the thin red tube to the spray nozzle and fired several generous blasts
into the small openings in the clock case where metal tabs join it to the
tach assembly.  It got my clock working, although it doesn't really keep
good time.  Still, its good enough for car shows etc. (unless a judge
wants to wait for hours to check the time!)  and cheaper than sending it
away for repairs.

If you really want your guages to look like new, you can obtain new
plastic lenses from Olds mail order vendors like year one etc.  I bought
some from Frank Bennett in Connecticut.  To accomodate the clock stem,
you will have to drill a small hole using the old lens as a template.  Not
hard to do.

Regarding the shocks from the coil,  I have also encountered this
problem...its annoying.  The coil packs quite a charge. I suppose that is
one reason why there is a plastic insulation on the aligator clips on my
test dwell, tach, rpm meter.

Regards,

Sandy Stewart
Prince Edward Island
Canada
WAStewart@gov.pe.ca
68 Supreme
72 Supreme
72 W-30
93 Cierra

------------------------------

From: schmich@AZStarNet.com (John Schmich)
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 12:16:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Dave Smith Engineering

>
>     No, they don't have much for the later model cutlass's and their
>     "small" V8's.  There's some, but you have to hunt to find it.
>
>     However, most of the small-block stuff is interchangeable meaning the
>     parts from a 350 will usually work on a 307.
>
>     Prices are comparable with Mondello -- High.  Some things are cheaper,
>     some more expensive (like head porting).
>
>     Still, not a bad $8. . .  Wish I could loan ya mine to check out.  If
>     you're a member of the OCA, you might want to mention that.  Some
>     suppliers will give free catalogs to OCA members.
>
Thanks for the info.  Since I have to buy another Mondello catalog I might
as well spend another $8.  Well, not to get off the subject completely, but
how do you become a member of the OCA. (i.e. cost for membership, any
publications, etc.)
Brandon

>     Tom.
>
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
>Subject: Dave Smith Engineering
>Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET
>Date:    2/22/96 8:46 PM
>
>
>I was just looking through the latest Car Craft and I saw an ad in the back
>for Oldsmobile performance parts from Dave Smith Engineering.  I've heard you
 >guys talk about him before but I got a few questions (before I fork over
the >$8) for those that have the catalog.   Does the catalog have a fair
amount of >parts/information/advice for the 81-88 307?  Are the prices
comparable with >Mondello?  Thanks. > >Brandon > > > > >

------------------------------

From: Daniel Gulino <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 12:20:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Do you subscribe to Cars & Parts?

At 11:47 AM 2/23/96 -0400, you wrote:

>This is purely for my own curiosity; one of the customers I support
>for our database publishing systems is Amos Press, and one of their
>publications (though not one produced by our system) is Cars & Parts.
>The topic of this list came up in conversation with them one day, and
>I was just curious as to how many people here knew of their magazine,
>or even subscribed to it.


I've been a subscriber to Cars and Parts for several years, and I love it.
It seems to have just the right mix of articles about junkyards, feature
cars, history of automobiles, technical tips, and classifieds.  I like it
a lot better than Old Cars Weekly, which I used to get but found that
there was usually little in it that interested me.

One of my most favorite likes about the magazine is the way they take
you through a project with their photos.  They'll number each one and
put a lengthy caption next to it to describe what is going on.  I've never
seen this in any other magazine, car or otherwise.


************************************************
Daniel A. Gulino
Associate Professor and Graduate Chairman
Department of Chemical Engineering
Ohio University
Athens, Ohio  45701
(614) 593-1495
(614) 593-0873 (fax)
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://www.ent.ohiou.edu/che/faculty/gulino.html
************************************************

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 12:16:23 -0400
Subject: RE: Do you subscribe to Cars & Parts?

>I just bought the latest issue the other day.  They also sent me
>a subscription offer last week.

Thanks, Dan. Your reply brings the total of responses to... let's see...
mm-hm, mm-hm... uh... a total of... so far...

One.

                                        Cheers,
                                                Andy

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Adobe Systems, Inc. (formerly Frame Technology)
Advanced Product Services
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: eric_buckner@non-hp-om.cv.hp.com
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 12:46:27 -0400
Subject: Re: (no subject)

Item Subject: cc:Mail Text
     >Right, those old tungsten lights just get dimmer with age, and if
     >yours do have any cash value, you might as well take advantage of it
     >now. Pop them out, clean them up and box 'em up until the next swap
     >meet.

     >Andrew C. Green

     ------------------------------------
     Guess I shouldn't have thrown mine away. I've still got three (one
     std, two brights) original '64 mint, worth the "really-old" price??
     Eric Buckner
     '64 F-85 deluxe
     Albany, OR


------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 12:56:02 -0400
Subject: Re: (no subject)

>     Guess I shouldn't have thrown mine away. I've still got three (one
>     std, two brights) original '64 mint, worth the "really-old" price??

I'm the wrong one to ask about that; I don't know for sure. Let's just
say that it's worth your looking into it, at least as far as to identify
what the original (circa 1958) design looks like and whether yours are
that same style or a later one.

BTW, sorry to y'all about plastering that Cars & Parts thank-you note to
Dan to the whole list; I meant to E-mail that to him but wasn't paying
attention...

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Adobe Systems, Inc. (formerly Frame Technology)
Advanced Product Services
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: clark@sh28.dseg.ti.com (Pat Clark 952-3776)
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 13:02:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Rally-Pac Update

> From oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca Fri Feb 23 09:57 CST 1996
> X-Sender: acg@dlogics.dlogics.com
> Mime-Version: 1.0
> Date: 	Fri, 23 Feb 1996 11:35:43 -0400
> To: oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
> From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
> Subject: Re: Rally-Pac Update
>
> >Well, after cleaning up the gauge package I hooked them up and let them
> >rip. The gas gauge worked WOOO-WHO, the temp gauge worked WOOO-WHO,
>
> Um, WOOO-WHO is good, right?  :-)  Guess I need to read that out loud in
> my best Homer Simpson voice...
>
> >the oil
> >pressure gauge DOOOOH! I guess I'll have to send it off and get it fixed.
>
> Is that mechanical or electric? There's more diagnosis you might want to
> do before shipping anything out.

	Its electric. I tested the induction? coils on the back for continuity
(they looked good) and cleaned them up. The only thing I didn't take apart was
the actual gauge unit itself (each one; gas,temp,oil is separate). Trouble is,
even if I could get them all to work, I dont know how accurate they would be.
I think my best bet is to send them off and get them fixed and calibrated.


> >I also
> >tested the TIC TOC TACH out. The tach worked great but not the clock.
>
> Try our shade-tree clock solution of fogging a brief squirt of WD-40
> (without the extension tube) through the backlighting holes in the back
> of the clock case.

	Will this affect the tach in any way? You are talking through the light
bulb sockets right?

> >Stupid question here: when I had the tack hooked up under the hood and
> >went to ground it, it would shock me. I finally had to get an insulated
> >screwdriver to hold it down. Is this to be expected?
>
> Not in my experience. Perhaps the coil is cracked. You were sticking the
> wire on one of the side terminals, right? And there were no stray strands
> getting too close to the center terminal? You might want to clean the top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> of the coil and check for hairline cracks, or for deteriorated coil wire
> insulation. It sounds like some of the firing charge is leaking through
> insulation somewhere, and your tach wire is a convenient ground for it.

	Bingo! give the man a cookie! ;>) the coil leaked oil everywhere when I
went to loosen the nut that attached the tach wire on. Had to go to the store
and grab a new one. Looking at the old one, it was cracked clean across the
face

Once again Andrew, thanks for the good advice and quick response! I'll have to
 buy you a beer if your ever down Dallas way.


          ___              ___        _________
         /   |            /   |      /         \
        /    |           /    |     |   ___    |
       /     |          /     |     |__|   |   |
      /      |         /      |           /   /
     /       |        /       |          /   /
    /   /|   |       /   /|   |         /   /
   /   /_|   |__    /   /_|   |__      /   /
  |             |  |             |    /   /
  |______     __|  |______     __|   /   /_____
         |   |            |   |     |          |      Pat Clark
         |___|            |___|     |__________|       69 442


   "Just your average 300+hp garage hogging, gas sucking, money pit"

------------------------------

From: JK McCall <jkmccall@QBC.Clic.Net>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 16:13:37 -0400
Subject: Re: 1974 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Convertible

Ramsey Davis wrote:
>
> 1974 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Convertible:
>
>     Rebuilt 455 motor, new top,  good tires, inspected, new shocks, battery,
>   carb.,  water pump, master cylinder, brake pads,
>   steering box, Runs strong, Black w/ black leather.  Needs someone to love
it. >   Best offer over $1000.    Cranston, RI,  USA > >   Contact Alex  by
phone:  Evenings  (Before 9:30 PM EST)  401 467-7746   or >
Days      (anytime)             508   480-0050    ext 303. Found this in one
of the newsgroups I frequent.  Anyone interested?

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 13:17:30 -0400
Subject: mas info

> Subject: Re: Litfters
> Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at Interlink
> Date:    2/22/96 1:09 PM
>
> Chris what could you possibly need all this obscure info for? I've built a
> ton of engines and never needed half the variety of info your looking for.
> Are you trying to compile the worlds biggest Olds trivia database?

Well... Yes. I guess if your 'ton of engines' [which, btw, is only about 3-4
big blocks] were all 68 or later, and not 307's, you never ran into this
jungle of which block uses what lifter size and cam bank angle... I have seen
conflicting information, often due to simple typos, and wanted to have the
true information at my disposal.

At this time, it appears to boil down to the simple, easy to remember: There's
no such thing as a 45-degree c.b.a. block with large lifters.

   The only early series engines to use the modern 39 degree c.b.a. were the
E-400 '66-67 442 engine and its bored out twin brother, the D-425 '66-67
Toronado engine. These D blocks can be differentiated from the common
D-425 by the presence of the large 0.921" lifters.
    All other early series engines used the small  lifters on the 45 degree
c.b.a. Even the near-Toronado Starfire/Police D-425.
    All late series engines use the 39 degree c.b.a., and the 0.921 lifter
shows up, in roller form, only in some Diesels [DX] and '85 & up 307's. All
other 68&up engines use the small lifter on 39 degrees.




- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 13:18:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Rally-Pac Update

>	Its electric. I tested the induction? coils on the back for continuity
>(they looked good) and cleaned them up. The only thing I didn't take apart
was >the actual gauge unit itself (each one; gas,temp,oil is separate).

Okay, but how is the sending unit on the engine? That is a _lot_ more likely
to go bad than a gauge sitting in the comfort of your dashboard.

Put it another way, if the connection to the sending unit breaks, I think
the gauge will peg the needle hard in one direction or the other; the needle
won't just float. If you've ever had the gas tank wire go bad, you'll know
what I mean. What is the oil gauge needle doing now? Any reaction if you,
for example, poke it into the middle of its scale, then turn on the power?

>Trouble is,
>even if I could get them all to work, I dont know how accurate they would be.

They never were. :-) The idea is more along the lines of noticing when their
readings _change_, and investigating at that point. What the actual numbers
are is less important, as long as the gauges are sensitive enough to show a
change if something goes bad under the hood.

>> Try our shade-tree clock solution of fogging a brief squirt of WD-40
>> (without the extension tube) through the backlighting holes in the back
>> of the clock case.
>
>Will this affect the tach in any way? You are talking through the light
>bulb sockets right?

Well, someone who's more familiar with the tick-tock tach than I am has
already told us about this, so I'd go with their advice.

>Bingo! give the man a cookie! ;>) the coil leaked oil everywhere when I
>went to loosen the nut that attached the tach wire on. Had to go to the store
 >and grab a new one.

What, already? Are you out in the garage with your PC waiting for our
answers to come in?

>Once again Andrew, thanks for the good advice and quick response! I'll
>have to buy you a beer if you're ever down Dallas way.

Uh, beer, yes; cookies, no.  ;-)  See if you can find a nice Harp or
Kronenbourg Lager...

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Adobe Systems, Inc. (formerly Frame Technology)
Advanced Product Services
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: clark@sh28.dseg.ti.com (Pat Clark 952-3776)
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 14:17:16 -0400
Subject: Re: How much is my '68 Olds worth?

> From oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca Fri Feb 23 09:55 CST 1996
> Date: 	Fri, 23 Feb 1996 11:54:23 -0400
> X-Sender: loki@ns1.computek.net
> Mime-Version: 1.0
> To: oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
> From: "Ross A. Goldberg" <loki@computek.net>
> Subject: How much is my '68 Olds worth?
>
> Hello,
>
> I am hoping someone (or many people) can help me determine the value of my
car: > > 1968 Olds Cutlass > ================= > 15k Original Miles >
Original Showroom condition > Original Paint, Interior, etc. > Honestly looks
(and drives) like it just came off of showroom > 4 door > > The original
owner of this car had bought it in '68 and then quickly became > ill and had
the car garaged for all these years.  My brother bought it about > a year ago,
brought it back to perfect condition (some rubber had dried out, > etc) and
now the car is mine (due to an unfortunate situation) and I am > needing to
sell it. > > Any help would be greatly appreciated.  I will get more details
on the car > as soon as I can. > > Thanks, > Ross >
//------------------------------------ > // Ross A. Goldberg (aka Loki) > //
http://www.computek.net/public/loki > // loki@computek.net > > >

Man, I was really getting excited until that 4 door thing popped up ;>)


          ___              ___        _________
         /   |            /   |      /         \
        /    |           /    |     |   ___    |
       /     |          /     |     |__|   |   |
      /      |         /      |           /   /
     /       |        /       |          /   /
    /   /|   |       /   /|   |         /   /
   /   /_|   |__    /   /_|   |__      /   /
  |             |  |             |    /   /
  |______     __|  |______     __|   /   /_____
         |   |            |   |     |          |      Pat Clark
         |___|            |___|     |__________|       69 442


   "Just your average 300+hp garage hogging, gas sucking, money pit"

------------------------------

From: clark@sh28.dseg.ti.com (Pat Clark 952-3776)
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 14:47:30 -0400
Subject: Sending Unit signal strength

anybody know what the signal strength in amps is that your oil pressure and
water temp sending units put out? I would like to use this info to test to
see if I am getting a signal up to the connection on my guages. If it makes
a difference the units are off of a 69 442.


          ___              ___        _________
         /   |            /   |      /         \
        /    |           /    |     |   ___    |
       /     |          /     |     |__|   |   |
      /      |         /      |           /   /
     /       |        /       |          /   /
    /   /|   |       /   /|   |         /   /
   /   /_|   |__    /   /_|   |__      /   /
  |             |  |             |    /   /
  |______     __|  |______     __|   /   /_____
         |   |            |   |     |          |      Pat Clark
         |___|            |___|     |__________|       69 442


   "Just your average 300+hp garage hogging, gas sucking, money pit"

------------------------------

From: eric_buckner@non-hp-om.cv.hp.com
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 14:51:55 -0400
Subject: Re: How much is my '68 Olds worth?

Item Subject: cc:Mail Text
     >>15k Original Miles
     >>Original Showroom condition
     >>Original Paint, Interior, etc.
     >>Honestly looks (and drives) like it just came off of showroom
     >>4 door

     >Man, I was really getting excited until that 4 door thing popped
     >up; >)
     >Pat Clark
     >69 442

     Strategic placing that's for sure!!!! Had missed the fact until you
     mentioned it.
     Eric Buckner
     '64 F-85 deluxe
     Albany, OR

------------------------------

From: "Ross A. Goldberg" <loki@computek.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 17:25:32 -0400
Subject: Re: How much is my '68 Olds worth?

Hello,

Yes... 4 doors... so how much is it worth with the two extra doors <g>

>     >Man, I was really getting excited until that 4 door thing popped
>     >up; >)

>     Strategic placing that's for sure!!!! Had missed the fact until you
>     mentioned it.

Thanks,
Ross
//------------------------------------
// Ross A. Goldberg (aka Loki)
// http://www.computek.net/public/loki
// loki@computek.net

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 16:44:14 -0400
Subject: Re: How much is my '68 Olds worth?

>Yes... 4 doors... so how much is it worth with the two extra doors <g>

It gets you into the group of buyers who want a nice car but have to
get four doors since it's such a pain to lift Junior into the car seat
in back if the car only has two doors which is yet another reason why
I really need to part with the '82 Cutlass but am looking forward to
getting a white SSEi which I really wish came with an Olds emblem on
the front but whattaya going to do and yes I did check out the LSS first
but there's still enough teenager in me to want the in-yer-face styling
of the SSEi...

- --*gasp*--inhale...

So there!  :-)  I think you'll find a buyer.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Adobe Systems, Inc. (formerly Frame Technology)
Advanced Product Services
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 17:19:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Do you subscribe to Cars & Parts?

I don't subscribe to C&P but I buy it every month on the newsstand. The
reason I don't subscribe is simple. I sent in an order about a year ago
when they had the promotion contest giving away the '63 Corvette they
restored. I figured why not, since I buy it every month anyway. One month
weent by, so I bought that issue, then another, so I bought *that* issue.
A week after I bought the third month's issue, the one from two months
previous arrived in the mail! The next week, the one from a month
previous arrived. I sent them back with a note saying if this is the best
you can do, I don't want it, and cancelled.

An OK magazine (though their classifieds are not very good compared to
Hemmings IMHO and are largely a waste of half the magazine's space), but
I wish they would do more features and spend less space on those
classifieds and auctions.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 17:34:06 -0400
Subject: Cars & Parts

I don't get C&P by mail sub but I buy it every month on the newsstand. The
reason I don't have a regular sub is simple. I sent in an order about a
year ago when they had the promotion contest giving away the '63 Corvette
they restored. I figured why not, since I buy it every month anyway. One
month went by, so I bought that issue, then another, so I bought *that*
issue.  A week after I bought the third month's issue, the one from two
months previous arrived in the mail! The next week, the one from a month
previous arrived. I sent them back with a note saying if this is the best
you can do, I don't want it, and cancelled.

An OK magazine (though their classifieds are not very good compared to
Hemmings IMHO and are largely a waste of half the magazine's space), but
I wish they would do more features and spend less space on those
classifieds and auctions.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 09:53:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Sending Unit signal strength

     Sorry I don't know what reading you should get, but I can say that you
     should probably be measuring ohms, not amps.  Measure the resistance
     between the signal wire and a ground.  Zero ohms should peg the gauge,
     more and the gauge would read less.


______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________ Subject: Sending Unit signal strength
Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at INTERNET Date:    2/23/96 11:23 AM


anybody know what the signal strength in amps is that your oil pressure and
water temp sending units put out? I would like to use this info to test to
see if I am getting a signal up to the connection on my guages. If it makes
a difference the units are off of a 69 442.

------------------------------

From: "Shawn M. Twomey" <stwom@ctp.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 18:54:13 -0400
Subject: Re: HO 307

     The Al intake might be standard on the 307.  I know it's standard on
     the 260, my '79 had one.

Hmm.  The reason I didn't think it was standard was that I saw an H/O add
scanned in by Charlie Beuhner on his web page that mentions all the optional
engine equipment and their part numbers.  The intake was in that list,
although it said something like "part number not available at this time."
Charlie?  Anyone?

     I agree, the 307 HO wouldn't be worth it unless you were rebuilding
     the engine anyways.  I'd bet that any high-output cam (like
     Mondello's) would be comperable to, if not better than the stock HO
     cam.  Probably cheaper and easier to find too.

That cam sure makes the car sound great, don't it?

     If you're not set on a 307, I'd also recommend a 350.  Much as I like
     my 307 HO, I think a 350 would be a far cry better.  Emissions laws or
     the onboard computer may force you to keep the 307 however.

Has anyone done this and dealt with the computer issues?  Care to share?
I'll be doing it in about a year or so and I was wondering if I need to
procure a PROM or have one specially burned to take full advantage of the
setup.

     A 350
     swap would probably also involve a new tranny if you have a 200-4R.

Remember when people were posting magazine article listings not too long
ago?  One of them (I've got it written down...somewhere) lists an article
about beefing up the 200-4R and 700-4R trannies.  The guy they talked to in
that article seemed to think that both of these were great for street use,
when built by someone who knows how to beef them up right.  The first gear
ratio for these overdrive trannies is quicker than a Turbo 350.  I see no
reason why a fairly strong 350 SB build (275, maybe 300 HP) should require
more than a 200-4R.  Any trans experts care to comment?

     Yup, the H/O's and 442's aren't all that fast.  But they are tons of
     fun to drive.  Beat a 5.0 mustang (mmm... smoked pony!) off the line
     yesterday.  He caught up within a block, but by that time I didn't
     want to go any faster anyways (another block or so and he'd be blowing
     my doors off, but I didn't let him know that :-) ).

*grin*  One problem I have with my '85 442 is that its performance seems to
suffer a LOT when there are more people in the car.  I realize that the
extra weight will affect it some, but if I get four people in my car, I
might as well forget it-smoking the tires (no posi) becomes just about
impossible.

     Even with the
     overdrive, the 3.73 gears send your gas mileage right out the window.
     Anyone with one of these cars want to share numbers?  I'm getting
     13-14 in town, 18-19 highway.  This is on oxygenated gas and probably
     will improve when real gas becomes available the end of the month.

My car is NOT environment friendly. :)  These figures sound about what I'm
getting.  Of course, much worse if I'm on it all the time (I consider it a
minor miracle that there are no points on my license).

__________________________________________________________________________
Shawn M. Twomey     |  "No!  Try NOT!  Do, or do not.  There is no try."
stwom@ctp.com       |  -Yoda
__________________________________________________________________________

------------------------------

From: urbanch@magi.com (Chris Urban)
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 19:42:49 -0400
Subject: Re: mas info

>> Subject: Re: Litfters
>> Author:  oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca at Interlink
>> Date:    2/22/96 1:09 PM
>>
>Thats why you should stick with 455's and maybe the odd 350 when you get in
a rut. If you want to build every engine Olds made its really hard to
develop a good combination. Most of the literature out there deals with
these engines so it makes your job easier and they make more power than
other Olds engines so how about it?

>
>At this time, it appears to boil down to the simple, easy to remember:
There's >no such thing as a 45-degree c.b.a. block with large lifters. > >
The only early series engines to use the modern 39 degree c.b.a. were the
>E-400 '66-67 442 engine and its bored out twin brother, the D-425 '66-67
>Toronado engine. These D blocks can be differentiated from the common >D-425
by the presence of the large 0.921" lifters. >    All other early series
engines used the small  lifters on the 45 degree >c.b.a. Even the
near-Toronado Starfire/Police D-425. >    All late series engines use the 39
degree c.b.a., and the 0.921 lifter >shows up, in roller form, only in some
Diesels [DX] and '85 & up 307's. All >other 68&up engines use the small lifter
on 39 degrees. > > > > >-- >Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
>wittchri@pilot.msu.edu > > >

------------------------------

From: urbanch@magi.com (Chris Urban)
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 19:42:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Dave Smith Engineering

don't know about 81-88 307 but prices are fair, and this guy knows his
stuff!!!1



>I was just looking through the latest Car Craft and I saw an ad in the back
>for Oldsmobile performance parts from Dave Smith Engineering.  I've heard
>you guys talk about him before but I got a few questions (before I fork over
>the $8) for those that have the catalog.   Does the catalog have a fair
>amount of parts/information/advice for the 81-88 307?  Are the prices
>comparable with Mondello?  Thanks.
>
>Brandon
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: eric_buckner@non-hp-om.cv.hp.com
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 19:44:32 -0400
Subject: Re: HO 307

Item Subject: cc:Mail Text
     >>a Turbo 350.  I see no reason why a fairly strong 350 SB build (275,
     >>maybe 300 HP) should require more than a 200-4R.  Any trans experts
     >>care to comment?

     I think a tranny swap might be in your best interest should you
     upgrade to a 350. I'm no expert on trannys but I've gone through two
     Turbo 350'2 (comparable to the 200 4R??) in my Olds W/ 345 hp '74 Chev
     350(yah, yah I know how y'all feel about cross breeding and all that
     but it's a balanced, blueprinted, ported, polished Corvette 202 heads,
     W/big cam, shaved crank, Dual plane high rise topped by a 750 DP 350).
     She originally came strapped to a freshly rebuilt T350...was gone
     within 3 seconds at the track. The second was against some Taurus SHO.
     Now I've got a Muncie 4 speed so that I've got a little control.
     I dont know how much you can expect to pay for a beef up job or two
     but I'd bet you could come up with a real tough stock tranny for less.
     Eric Buckner
     '64 F-85 deluxe
     Albany, OR

------------------------------

From: schmich@AZStarNet.com (John Schmich)
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 19:58:38 -0400
Subject: Re: HO 307

>     I agree, the 307 HO wouldn't be worth it unless you were rebuilding
>     the engine anyways.  I'd bet that any high-output cam (like
>     Mondello's) would be comperable to, if not better than the stock HO
>     cam.  Probably cheaper and easier to find too.
>
>That cam sure makes the car sound great, don't it?
>
>     If you're not set on a 307, I'd also recommend a 350.  Much as I like
>     my 307 HO, I think a 350 would be a far cry better.  Emissions laws or
>     the onboard computer may force you to keep the 307 however.
>
>Has anyone done this and dealt with the computer issues?  Care to share?
>I'll be doing it in about a year or so and I was wondering if I need to
>procure a PROM or have one specially burned to take full advantage of the
setup.
>
>     A 350
>     swap would probably also involve a new tranny if you have a 200-4R.
>
>Remember when people were posting magazine article listings not too long
>ago?  One of them (I've got it written down...somewhere) lists an article
>about beefing up the 200-4R and 700-4R trannies.  The guy they talked to in
>that article seemed to think that both of these were great for street use,
>when built by someone who knows how to beef them up right.  The first gear
>ratio for these overdrive trannies is quicker than a Turbo 350.  I see no
>reason why a fairly strong 350 SB build (275, maybe 300 HP) should require
>more than a 200-4R.  Any trans experts care to comment?
>
>     Yup, the H/O's and 442's aren't all that fast.  But they are tons of
>     fun to drive.  Beat a 5.0 mustang (mmm... smoked pony!) off the line
>     yesterday.  He caught up within a block, but by that time I didn't
>     want to go any faster anyways (another block or so and he'd be blowing
>     my doors off, but I didn't let him know that :-) ).
>
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
>Shawn M. Twomey     |  "No!  Try NOT!  Do, or do not.  There is no try."
>stwom@ctp.com       |  -Yoda
>__________________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
Shawn,
I am currently rebuilding my 307,  I will have it done in about the next 3
weeks.  Boy is it complicated trying to get information/advice/parts for the
307.  It seems that every person that I talk to degrades my position of
building a high performance '84 307.  Hopefully I will prove them wrong in a
matter of 12 to 13 seconds!!!  Anyway, I'll tell you what I am putting in
mine.  307 bored .030 over, Silvolite pistons, moly rings, Comp cams 268
duration Hydraulic, Edelbrock performer manifold(3711), and surfaced heads.
I still need to check on some things like a harmonic balancer(?), and a
torque convertor. I still plan on using my 200-4R and hopefully it will
handle the 225+ horsepower and the 80 hp N.O.S. kit I plan to use on the
strip.  As for the computer, I'm looking into a High performance chip.  I
know Hypertech can make one of a kind chips, because they said I would need
one(?).  If you need it again I sent the message about the 200-4R article,
it is the October 1986 Car Craft.
Like I said before, it was hard to get honest help to build this so I hope
it all works.  I'll give you and the other guys the scoop when its complete.

Brandon

------------------------------

From: "Tom Lentz" <tlentz@teknon.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 12:10:16 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: HO 307


>The intake was in that list, although it said something like "part number
>not available at this time." Charlie?  Anyone?

Well, the Al intake on my 260 definitely was not the same critter as on the
307 HO.  The 260's has these cute little teeny-tiny ports. . .

>One of them (I've got it written down...somewhere) lists an article about
>beefing up the 200-4R and 700-4R trannies.  The guy they talked to in that
>article seemed to think that both of these were great for street use, when
>built by someone who knows how to beef them up right.  The first gear
>ratio for these overdrive trannies is quicker than a Turbo 350.  I see no
>reason why a fairly strong 350 SB build (275, maybe 300 HP) should require
>more than a 200-4R.  Any trans experts care to comment?

I'd love to get my hands on that article.  Could you possibly go check your
notes for me?  Yeah, I agree that a 200-4R could live behind a 350 if it
were built correctly, by someone like Art Carr.  After all, they live just
fine behind 13 second Turbo Regals.

>One problem I have with my '85 442 is that its performance seems to suffer
>a LOT when there are more people in the car.  I realize that the extra

I second that argument.

>Of course, much worse if I'm on it all the time (I consider it a minor
>miracle that there are no points on my license).

Mine too (knock on wood).


------------------------------

From: Roger Saladin <rsaladin@bright.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 20:45:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Sending Unit signal strength

At 02:47 PM 2/23/96 -0400, you wrote:
>anybody know what the signal strength in amps is that your oil pressure and
>water temp sending units put out? I would like to use this info to test to

These "sending units" don't put out anything. They are variable resistors
that change depending on pressure/temperature, and the meters interpret
these changes to show you the results. As for amps, total current flow in
the circuitry is not measured in amps, but milliamps (one thousandth of
an amp).

------------------------------

From: BYLN96A@prodigy.com ( GLENN CONNORS)
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 1996 21:10:18 -0400
Subject: Main bearing cap bolts

Can anyone tell me if the main bearing cap bolts in a 455ci. are the
same as the small block 307ci.  It seams that a couple of the cap
bolts for my 455ci. are stretched. Actually I thought they had
bottomed out when I was tightening them up to seat the crank before I
was to plastic-guage them.  I retapped the block and still had a
great deal of resistance so I ran the bolts through a die and they
ran in a little easier. I'm not real comfortable with that so I
figured I better change them out.  I have access to a junk 307ci. and
wondered if they were the same bolt.  Any ideas?

Glenn
'69 4-4-2

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #100
********************************
