
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

oldsmobile-digest          Tuesday, 5 March 1996       Volume 01 : Number 110


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Rod Rickenbach <rod@hopi.dtcc.edu>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 22:24:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump

On Mon, 4 Mar 1996, Cory Roadarmel wrote:

> I'm getting ready for the racing season and want to install an electric fuel
> pump.
> I remember reading on the mail list not to long ago that when you install a
> elect. pump, you should leave the mech. pump in place and plug the
> inlet/outlet instead of putting on a block off plate.

You can use an electric pump to feed the mechanical pump.  If you aren't
going to be using the pump tho, I'd remove it and put on a blockoff
plate.  Just having it there doing nothing costs you HP and wears out the
pump.

- -Rod
-
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
    Rod Rickenbach                                       Delaware Tech
     rod@dtcc.edu                                 Computer Services Department
http://www.dtcc.edu/~rod                            Stanton/Wilmington Campus

------------------------------

From: Benedict J Raia <br2a+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 22:28:38 -0400
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #109

Excerpts from mail: 4-Mar-96 oldsmobile-digest V1 #109 by
oldsmobile-digest-ow@ccn
> Well, fair enough, if you haven't got time, it would have to wait until
> you did, although at that point I would "spend" my own time checking the
> connections before paying somebody else to do it. (Uh, no flame intended;
> that sounded a little harsh...)

No flame taken :) I agree, I've done work on it myself whenever I can.

>Usual places would include old rocker cover gaskets and/or the oil
>pressure sending unit. You could try cleaning the engine at a do-it-
>yourself car wash; that'll help a lot in showing where the leak(s) are.

Looking at where most of the grime is now, it's probably the rocker
cover gasket.

>> - horn doesn't work
>
>New relay (if you don't hear a "click" when pressing the horn) or a
>new horn (if you don't). $7-$11 either.

OK, here's the thing when I tried to fix it: I'm assuming the horn is
this disc-shaped thing with a trumpet coming out of it, mounted in front
of the radiator, behind the grille.  It's got a wire which is going into
the big bunch of wires that splits out to the headlights, etc., and then
another lead which I can't figure out where it's supposed to be
connected to.  I assume it's ground, but I'm not certain.

Ben

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 22:34:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump

If you install the electric pump as close as possible to the fuel tank (it is
designed to push, not pull, you can remove the mechanical pump.

Unless you have a return line.  If you want to deep six the mechanical, block
off the hole and purchase an aftermarket regulator (you probably need one
anyway since most electric pumps greatly exceed the stock 5-6 psi).  I know
Mallory makes one with provision for a return line.

AC and heavy duty cooling usually had return lines.

Bob Handren
'67 442 W-30 Modified
'70 SX Convert.

------------------------------

From: <edison3@gato.cpeq.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 18:23:09 -0400
Subject: Toro Pic

Hey -- does anybody have a (or know where one is)
GIF/JPEG/Whatever of a 66/67 Toro?


The 66 Toro and Mike


Michael R. Frederick, CEO
EDIson3, Inc.
Tampa, Forida
(813) 210-8649

------------------------------

From: Tony <3CQ9DELBALSO@vms.csd.mu.edu>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 23:49:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Small Block Camshaft

Your pick for a camshaft (16-20) is for towing and motorhomes. Based on
what I see, I think you should consider the 18-20. I am running that
profile in my 72 smallblock and it idles just fine.


****	Mondello recomends street head porting when using the 18-20 cam, I
am looking to build a fairly mild engine, and porting isn't in the budget.
The 16-18 has a LOT more lift and duration than the stock single pattern cam
which was stock on this motor.  I have considered the 18-20, but I don't know
how well it would work w/o porting of the heads.  Have your heads been ported?


	When you buy your
	cam, you to buy the kit too, using old lifters with the new cam
	profile will likely lead to premature cam and/or lifter failure. If
	that happens it will occur sooner rather than later.


***	I am planning on ordering the lifters, as well as his 
spring/retainer
kit to go with the camshaft.

	As far as heads
	go, if you shave off more than .030" you must check piston to valve
	clearance. You did not state why you are having the heads shaved, I
	presume they are warped (are you having the decks checked for warpage
	too?). You also realize that shaving the heads will increase your
	compression ratio, swapping different heads will also either raise or
	lower your ratio. You will need to use adjustable pushrods since you
	are having the heads shaved.

******	I am trying to increase the compression by shaving the heads.  
The
present compression with the small dish pistons, .1'' deck clearance, and .4''
compressed Felpro head gasket, and 79cc #8 heads is only 7.3:1   I want 8.5 to
9 if possible.  If I can only shave off .03 inches, I'll need smaller chamber
heads.  If I use the smaller chamber heads, I won't need to shave them, and
then I can use the stock rockers.  What is a good price for #5 or 6 heads, say
from a junkyard?

I would certainly pick up a Toronado oilpan, a Mondello oilpump
(SP-775) and the R-100 Oil restrictor kit, these items will be
relatively cheap but aiding in lots of longevity for your engine

**	This is my first rebuild, and I don't have these items in the budget,
hopefully for the next one!

Good Luck,
Mike



Thanks for the help Mike, let me know about the heads!

Tony

------------------------------

From: Tony <3CQ9DELBALSO@vms.csd.mu.edu>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 23:53:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Small Block Camshaft

I ordered the 16-18 from Mondello also. The cam works well. The main reason
I went with this cam was I that I didn't have to change the stock torque
converter. The only thing I would advise would be to also order the spring
set that pairs with the cam. A good set of H-lifters (Mondello can give you
those also). I have #5 heads with the heat rises plugged. Got the plugs from
Mondello. In effect I got the entire cam package. One problem I'm
experiencing is lifter noise. Quite a bit infact. I installed the original
length push rods but i don't thing they can handel the extra lift the cam
has plus the fact that I used the fel-pro thick head gasket which increased
the height. I will have to go with adjustable push rods later this spring.
Just pondering if I should order them from Mondello or just buy them here in
my city, Toronto, Ontario, Canada.

Does anyone have a Mondello catalogue, check his price for a set of
adjustable push rods for a 350 using the 16-18 cam?

Regards
Fernando Proietto
'72 442


Fernando,  I am planning on getting a slightly higher stall rpm torque
converter, only 500-800 rpm above stock.  I also plan to order the lifters and
spring set.  Mondello does note in his catalog extra noise with his camshafts,
but only more radical ones than the 16-18.  I hope I don't run into this as
well.  Thanks for the warning.
The adjustable pushrods are party number AR-400 and as of March 1, 1995 cost
$140.  Good luck.
Tony

>Hi,
>
>I am going to order a camshaft for my 350 in the next week or so.  I've got
my >eye on the Mondello 16-18 hydralic.  The engine is going to be mild,
number 8 >heads (unless I find a pair of 5 or 6's in the next 2 weeks), small
dish >pistons (stock high perf from 72, cast aluminum), and will be shaving
some >material off the heads (need to know the maximum allowable).  The crank
is cast >stocker, stock oil pump (from recomendation of engine builder).
Anyone have >any experience with the 16-18 camshaft?  My main concern is
needing to shave >the heads, and then needing adjustable pushrods or rockers.
I may or may not >use an eldebrock Performer intake, but Will be using a
quadrajet.  The tranny >will be a 350 (installing simple shift kit from B&M)
and the rear end is stock >posi from 84 (real high gears, ie high top speed,
low acceleration).  Any >experience regarding amount of heads to shave,
whether to go with adjustable >rockers or pushrods would be appreciated.
Thanks >Tony > > > > > Regards Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: OLDSPWR@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 00:20:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine swap...

As for putting a 455 into a 78-87 Olds G-Body, it will be no problem.  I have
purchased a 79 Olds with a 455 that fit nicely.  If it is installed in a car
without AC, the pass. valve cover will hit the heater box, so it will have to
be trimmed a little.  If it is going into a car with AC, nothing will have to
be trimmed.

As for the brakets, all the original ones from the 'donnor' car will have to
be saved.  Since the big blocks are about 1" wider and 1 1/2" taller, all the
brackets are different, such as the alternator, power steering, AC, etc.
 Just be sure to also keep the pulleys.

If you plan on backing the big block with a TH400 (like some 455's came
with), it will fit without any clearance problems (I have allready done it.)
 The cross member will have to be modified, or better yet, get a dual hump
one from a late 60's or early 70's 442, etc. The drive shaft will also have
to be shortened about 1".

If you have any more specific questions, give me a yell and I'll try to help
you out!

------------------------------

From: OLDSPWR@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 00:39:42 -0400
Subject: Best small block heads...

Does anybody know which number head is a good core ?  I know for big block
Olds the heads of choice are C's or E's, but I am not sure about small
blocks.  I've called Mondello and Dick Miller, and I really didn't get a good
answer.  I've heard number 5's flow pretty decent for stock and they would be
a good core to start with (porting, etc.).  I am going to put the heads on a
'77 403 that's in a '79 Cutlass.  (I am aware of the modifications needed to
put 350 heads on a 403)  Anybody have any suggestions???

                                                           Tom Millard

------------------------------

From: "Dink" <heinle@jake.udayton.edu>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 01:21:00 -0400
Subject: (Fwd) Re: Electric fuel pump

> I'm getting ready for the racing season and want to install an electric fuel
> pump.
> Can anyone comment on this??

right from Car Craft the only usefull Olds info i have ever found in
there.

"even when running an electric pump, never remove the Olds
non-integral mechanical fuel pump eccentric from the cam - it
prevents the timing sprocket-to-cam locating dowel pin from falling
out."

Dink
80 Delta 88 Royale

{
Dink           Dayton, Ohio
http://homepages.udayton.edu/students/heinle/
Computer Information Systems Major @ UD
}

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 06:52:00 -0400
Subject: Re: 455 -> '84 H/O

>>Would there be any *major* problems putting a 455
>>into an '84 Hurst Olds [used to have a 307]?
>
>Has anyone out there actually done it?  I have not, but I've talked to a
>couple of folks who have.  Basically, it bolts right in, there was one thing
>a guy had to space out an inch or so (good memory, eh?), but even
>accessories like A/C should be no problem.  However, if you want headers on
>this car, they run outside the fender wall a little and you won't be able to
>turn as sharply.  I'm not too sure why this wouldn't happen with a small
>block, but again I haven't done it so I'm just relying on other individual's
>experiences.

     Yeah, I've got a 455 in my '81 Cutlass.  Same car.  Went in like
butter.  The A/C bracket is wrong (I am using the newer R4 compressor, cuz I
hate those huge A6's) and I've never seen a 455 that had the radial A/C
system (So I couldn't rob their brackets there!)  Everything else bolted
right in.  The exhaust manifolds are the 260 originals (blech!!) but one of
these days I'll take the plunge and buy a couple hookers (Had to say that!)
     I just got in a set of rear lift bars (control arms for the axle) that
change my center of gravity relationship, and allow *proper* installation of
my 1970 axle!  My new Performer intake is on my shelf and my Competition
Cams 280 Magnum cam/lifters/timing set are on backorder.  I've got a Ram Air
setup designed for it, as well.  As soon as I get it all in, (and get my
camera back) I'll scan in the pics and let everyone see the light (under my
left front tire!  ---Hopefully without a jack!)
                   |
           ________|________
          {        |        } Charley Buehner
          {        |        } "Rockit 1"
          {        |        } buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
          {        |        } http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {       /|\       }   "There's no replacement
          {     /  |  \     }        for displacement..."
          {   /    |    \   }
          { /      |      \ }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          """"""""]^[""""""""
                   ^
                   ^

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 06:51:00 -0400
Subject: Re: 1987 442 Parts needed - still

>I could use some help in tracking down some interior trim pieces that I want
to >get for my 1987 442 when I redo it. >They are the trim pieces on the dash
and console that are normally woodgrain but >these are "SLATE GREY"!! and they
have already been discontinued. (#$%^@#!!!#$)

     If you find some, scan some pics, I've never even heard of that, I
suddenly feel uneducated and left out in the cold...

       If *ALL* else fails, Krylon has a part for everything!!!  I've been
known to try such methods.  (Not much for Resto' quality, but.....)   :)
                   |
           ________|________
          {        |        } Charley Buehner
          {        |        } "Rockit 1"
          {        |        } buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
          {        |        } http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {       /|\       }   "There's no replacement
          {     /  |  \     }        for displacement..."
          {   /    |    \   }
          { /      |      \ }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          """"""""]^[""""""""
                   ^
                   ^

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 06:51:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine swap...

>If you plan on backing the big block with a TH400 (like some 455's came
>with), it will fit without any clearance problems (I have allready done it.)
> The cross member will have to be modified, or better yet, get a dual hump
>one from a late 60's or early 70's 442, etc. The drive shaft will also have
>to be shortened about 1".
>
>If you have any more specific questions, give me a yell and I'll try to help
>you out!

     So, does that older crossmember need any mods?  I have completely
overlooked that possibility on my car.
                   |
           ________|________
          {        |        } Charley Buehner
          {        |        } "Rockit 1"
          {        |        } buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
          {        |        } http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {       /|\       }   "There's no replacement
          {     /  |  \     }        for displacement..."
          {   /    |    \   }
          { /      |      \ }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          """"""""]^[""""""""
                   ^
                   ^

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 06:52:00 -0400
Subject: Re: 394 block/engine

>>PS. While looking through the motor manual, we were curious about a J2
>engine which was mfg for only one year. What was it's application for?
>>
>The J2 engine was an option for Olds, and I believe for 2 years ('57-58).
>The 58 was definite, it could outrun anything but a gas pump - I know, cuz
>I had one, with the gas bills to prove it! But it was the hi-performance
>engine for its day, with three deuces, and I think a little higher
compression >and maybe a slightly hotter cam, merged with a 4 speed
hydromatic. In those >days Olds only had the bigger cars, but with the J2
they could outrun about >anything on a stop light to stop light basis. >

     Here's a quote from my Oldsmobile in Action bible:  "The thrill of
Oldsmobile performance wasn't limited to just genuine on-track racers.  By
the late-Fifties, the general public could buy high performance Detroit
automobiles that could be driven right off the showroom floor.  Buyers of
1957 and 1958 Olds models could opt for this 371-cubic inch, triple two
barrel J-2 Rocket rated at 300 horses."
     It's a caption under a pic of the motor flaunting chrome valve covers
with the words "Oldsmobile Rocket" in nice big letters, and carries a large
air cleaner housing with a huge inlet on the left side of the engine.
(Looks about two inches high, and spans nearly the lenght of the intake)
Don't know what hooked on there, but I'm assuming there was some kind of
ductwork involved.
                   |
           ________|________
          {        |        } Charley Buehner
          {        |        } "Rockit 1"
          {        |        } buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
          {        |        } http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {       /|\       }   "There's no replacement
          {     /  |  \     }        for displacement..."
          {   /    |    \   }
          { /      |      \ }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          """"""""]^[""""""""
                   ^
                   ^

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 06:52:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Small Block Camshaft

My main concern is needing to shave
>>the heads, and then needing adjustable pushrods or rockers.  I may or may
>not
>>use an eldebrock Performer intake, but Will be using a quadrajet.
>Lots for discussion here...
>
>Tony,
>
>Your pick for a camshaft (16-20) is for towing and motorhomes. Based on
>what I see, I think you should consider the 18-20. I am running that
>profile in my 72 smallblock and it idles just fine. When you buy your
>cam, you need to buy the kit too, using old lifters with the new cam
>profile will likely lead to premature cam and/or lifter failure. If
>that happens it will occur sooner rather than later. As far as heads
>go, if you shave off more than .030" you must check piston to valve
>clearance. You did not state why you are having the heads shaved, I
>presume they are warped (are you having the decks checked for warpage
>too?). You also realize that shaving the heads will increase your
>compression ratio, swapping different heads will also either raise or
>lower your ratio. You will need to use adjustable pushrods since you
>are having the heads shaved. The manifold is fine as long as it is not
>the Performer RPM, the regular Performer should be a good fit based on
>your note. Stay with your stamped rockers, better yet buy Mondellos...
>I would certainly pick up a Toronado oilpan, a Mondello oilpump
>(SP-775) and the R-100 Oil restrictor kit, these items will be
>relatively cheap but aiding in lots of longevity for your engine

     Also, shaving the heads and/or block deck will change the angular
relationship between the head and intake ports.  What you end up with is a
leak on the inner most edge of the intake (Bottom of ports) for coolant and
vacuum.  To ensure proper sealing, you would need to mill the intake as
well, which is not a welcome idea after dishing out $165.00 for a new one.
PLUS, if you ever shell out your motor, or switch cars, whatever, that
intake will not be able to come with you.  It is destined to be stuck to
that engine combo forever, unless you desire to spend more cash on the next
motor as well.
                   |
           ________|________
          {        |        } Charley Buehner
          {        |        } "Rockit 1"
          {        |        } buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
          {        |        } http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {       /|\       }   "There's no replacement
          {     /  |  \     }        for displacement..."
          {   /    |    \   }
          { /      |      \ }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          """"""""]^[""""""""
                   ^
                   ^

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 07:43:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Rebuilding the 66

>I going to rebuild the engine and transmission in my 66 Toro (now
>all original) so I looking for suggestions.  The object is the
>following:
>
>    1) Performance!
>    2) Performance!
>        and, of course,
>    3) Performance!
>
>Scaring the h*ll out of the rice-burners at Clearwater Beach is the
>goal.  Total original specs is NOT a consideration.  This is MY car
>and I'm not worried if I don't get best-of-show because I have the
>wrong air-cleaner.

     Umm, I wonder, can you put ladder bars and 295-50R15's on the front of
that?  Would you need to put tiny tires on the back to make it look like a
dragster on steroids?    :)
                   |
           ________|________
          {        |        } Charley Buehner
          {        |        } "Rockit 1"
          {        |        } buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
          {        |        } http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {       /|\       }   "There's no replacement
          {     /  |  \     }        for displacement..."
          {   /    |    \   }
          { /      |      \ }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          """"""""]^[""""""""
                   ^
                   ^

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 07:43:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Misc. Stuff

>Hmmm. As for the '77 403's being 'better', I'd be very interested in seeing
any >proof of this. Anyone have a '77 403 apart, can photo the innards? The
diff. is >reportedly fully-webbed vs. open main bearing supports; I have yet
to see any >f.w. 403's of any year. Will gladly pay for photos if they exist.

     Well I got my 403 apart (OK, I blew it apart, but it's apart!) As for
the bearing supports, I am unsure (The block is gone, got enough for a 12
pack out of it!)  I still have the "original, no-frills, fully ~seperated~
#1 main bearing support," tho, if that means anything!!!    :)

                   |
           ________|________
          {        |        } Charley Buehner
          {        |        } "Rockit 1"
          {        |        } buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
          {        |        } http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {       /|\       }   "There's no replacement
          {     /  |  \     }        for displacement..."
          {   /    |    \   }
          { /      |      \ }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          """"""""]^[""""""""
                   ^
                   ^

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 07:43:00 -0400
Subject: Re: clicking noise

>>A clicking noise during a turn from a anti-sway bar??
>
>A bit of stretch, maybe, but as the body rolls, it pushes the broken
>ends of the link bolts together, grinding, etc. Since the bolt is held
>at both ends, the broken area remains in alignment (sort of) and the
>busted faces keep slamming together periodically.

     My end link was all gimped up on mine.  The rubber parts were gone, and
the metal cup had hollowed out a hole in it beg enough to park in.  Every
time I hit a bump with the right front tire, or turned hard at all, I got
this really awful commotion going on from down there.  (Go figure!)  These
go out often, too.
                   |
           ________|________
          {        |        } Charley Buehner
          {        |        } "Rockit 1"
          {        |        } buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
          {        |        } http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {       /|\       }   "There's no replacement
          {     /  |  \     }        for displacement..."
          {   /    |    \   }
          { /      |      \ }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          """"""""]^[""""""""
                   ^
                   ^

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 07:43:00 -0400
Subject: Re: gas tanks

>
>"Tanks" in advance for any advice!

     Sounds like a pain in the Gas to me!!!
                   |
           ________|________
          {        |        } Charley Buehner
          {        |        } "Rockit 1"
          {        |        } buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
          {        |        } http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {       /|\       }   "There's no replacement
          {     /  |  \     }        for displacement..."
          {   /    |    \   }
          { /      |      \ }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          """"""""]^[""""""""
                   ^
                   ^

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 07:43:00 -0400
Subject: Re: A hearbreaking moment

>Previously I wrote:
>>New relay (if you don't hear a "click" when pressing the horn) or a
>>new horn (if you don't). $7-$11 either.
>                  ^^^^^
>*gack*  Brain fart. I meant to say that if you _do_ hear a "click" when
>you press the horn, then the relay is probably fine but the horn is dead.

     Don't pass up the possibiltiy of that little horn contact ring in the
steering wheel could be bad, or the connector at the column base, too.
                   |
           ________|________
          {        |        } Charley Buehner
          {        |        } "Rockit 1"
          {        |        } buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
          {        |        } http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {       /|\       }   "There's no replacement
          {     /  |  \     }        for displacement..."
          {   /    |    \   }
          { /      |      \ }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          """"""""]^[""""""""
                   ^
                   ^

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 07:43:00 -0400
Subject: Re: 4bl for 231 v6

>Does anyone know if there exists, and if so where I can find a 4 barrel carb
>and intake  for an '81 Cutlass with a 231 Buick V6?

     Go for the gusto!  How 'bout a Turbo/SFI setup from an 87 GNX!!!  (I
want one for my '83 in a really big way!!!)

     Edelbrock has their 4bbl 231 intake('79 and later) #5486, don't know
price.  They are there, anyway.
                   |
           ________|________
          {        |        } Charley Buehner
          {        |        } "Rockit 1"
          {        |        } buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
          {        |        } http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {       /|\       }   "There's no replacement
          {     /  |  \     }        for displacement..."
          {   /    |    \   }
          { /      |      \ }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          """"""""]^[""""""""
                   ^
                   ^

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 07:43:00 -0400
Subject: Re: clicking noise

>Welp I have some more probs,
>Whenever I make a tight or hard left turn it makes a clicking noise.
>What I don't know, anybody have any idea's?  It does not do it when I
>turn right though, hmm.  Is it time for a suspension rebuild? fine
>with me, all the bushings look terrible.  I was also thinking of new
>front and rear anti-sway bars, anybody have any experience with
>these?  They look very simple to install, JC Witney has them for $85
>each, but i don't trust that company, anybody order bars from them
>before?  Or could it be from the Rallye's I just put on, they are 1"
>wider than the ones that were on it.

     Some people have had problems with the Rallyes trim inserts sliding
around on the rim, and clicking.  This is not likely the case here, but it
is certainly annoying.  They can be tightened up.  Pull out on the center
part (maybe with a screwdriver) and bend the little tang there out a bit
more.  This usually fixes it right up.
     Rear sway bars have been cake for me.  Four bolts.  Great upgrade.


>Also my blower motor died. Are there any simple fixes I should look
>for before I replace it.  I already checked the wiring and fuses.

This happens often.  Im on about my thirty'th one now.  I often "diagnose"
the problem the simple way.  If it quits, I pop the hood (Usually then it
comes back on, then I get pissed and slam the hood, and it shuts off
again!!!)  Anyway, then I smack the top of the motor.  If it comes on, odds
are good the motor is bad.  I usually skip the step of wiggling the
connectors at the motor (+ and ground)  These crap out occasionally, so you
ought to check there, first.

>One more annoying question, is there anyway to measure ride height?
>It seems to be sitting a lot lower now.  maybe time for new springs?

     Odds are good.  Springs have a life expectancy of about 60000 miles.
(Tops.)  From the ground to the rocker panel (3/4"back from front door seam)
at the front you should have 9-3/8" to 10-7/8".  From ground to rocker panel
at rear (70-3/4" back from front door seam) there should be 9.5 to 11 inches.
     These are the Moog specs, FWIW.  I'd recommend a good set of variable
rate springs, (I like NAPA, myself, but there are hundreds of places out
there.  I think Moog makes most of 'em)
                   |
           ________|________
          {        |        } Charley Buehner
          {        |        } "Rockit 1"
          {        |        } buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
          {        |        } http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {       /|\       }   "There's no replacement
          {     /  |  \     }        for displacement..."
          {   /    |    \   }
          { /      |      \ }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          """"""""]^[""""""""
                   ^
                   ^

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 07:43:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Rebuilding the 66

>
>     What sort of budget you looking at?  How streetable does it need to
>     be?
>
>     Remember that
>        "how fast you want it to go" = "how much you want to spend"

     Correction:  ...="$ Spent" X 2!!
                   |
           ________|________
          {        |        } Charley Buehner
          {        |        } "Rockit 1"
          {        |        } buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
          {        |        } http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {       /|\       }   "There's no replacement
          {     /  |  \     }        for displacement..."
          {   /    |    \   }
          { /      |      \ }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          """"""""]^[""""""""
                   ^
                   ^

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 07:43:00 -0400
Subject: Re: clicking noise

>>> Well, if you have voltage at the (purple?) wire connecting to that
>>well I went out and unplugged the wires, and at first got no
>>voltage at the purple wire, but after wiggleing them i got  12 volts
>>and the motor now works on low, and medium but not high?
>
>If not high, either the fan switch in the dash has melted, the high-speed
>bypass relay is dead, or (and this is almost _always_ the problem), a
>particular harness connector has melted partway through.

     There is a connector behind the glove box that you can trace up to the
heater controls (Acually on the Delta, it's probably under the glove box,
maybe to the left, just a hunch)  It's behind the glove box on the A-body
anyway.  There are wires for all fan positions here, and they often have
corrosion problems, as well.  I lost 2nd low there once.


>>> By now? Almost definitely. If the underside of the body isn't parallel
>>> with the ground (i.e. if it's lower in front), it's time.
>>it appears that it is, how hard are springs to install?
>
>Uh, anyone else want to tackle this?

     Rears are easy.  Fronts, well, you see, it's like this.  First you pull
off the tire and start tearing pieces off. Then you get carried away and
unbolt the control arm and lower ball joint.  Then the ambulance carries you
away as they surgically remove the spring from wherever it went through, and
the tow truck takes the car somewhere to finish the job!!!  (Not one of my
favorred tasks, can you tell? )
     Actually, if you have the time, patience, and facilities, they aren't
that bad.  I don't have any of that, and most lack at least one, so I
readily admit that's one area I don't feel guilty about paying someone else
to deal with.  (That is rare coming from me!!!)
                   |
           ________|________
          {        |        } Charley Buehner
          {        |        } "Rockit 1"
          {        |        } buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
          {        |        } http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {       /|\       }   "There's no replacement
          {     /  |  \     }        for displacement..."
          {   /    |    \   }
          { /      |      \ }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          """"""""]^[""""""""
                   ^
                   ^

------------------------------

From: buehner@cis.nmclites.edu (buehner)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 07:50:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Toro Pic

>
>Hey -- does anybody have a (or know where one is)
>GIF/JPEG/Whatever of a 66/67 Toro?

     I just stuck one on my "Olds Archive" page.  Different, but Toro'
                   |
           ________|________
          {        |        } Charley Buehner
          {        |        } "Rockit 1"
          {        |        } buehner@cis.nmclites.edu
          {        |        } http://www.nmclites.edu/~buehner
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {        |        }
          {       /|\       }   "There's no replacement
          {     /  |  \     }        for displacement..."
          {   /    |    \   }
          { /      |      \ }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]|[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          {       ]^[       }
          """"""""]^[""""""""
                   ^
                   ^

------------------------------

From: <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 07:44:45 -0400
Subject: Re:       Rebuilding the 66

>So dream on -- let me know what you would do if it was your car.


OK Mike,

What kind of drivetrain budget are we looking at here?


<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Michael R. Hall               Ortonville, Michigan
E-Mail: mikehal1@ix.netcom.com
Owner: 1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S, 380 horses of pure Mondello fun...
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

------------------------------

From: <edison3@gato.cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 04:24:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Toro Pic

Thanks, I'll check it out.

The 66 Toro and Mike


Michael R. Frederick, CEO
EDIson3, Inc.
Tampa, Forida
(813) 210-8649

------------------------------

From: david.chontofalsky@mcmail.vanderbilt.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 09:31:57 -0400
Subject: Re: '75 Hurst/Olds

Item Subject: cc:Mail Text
     >>>My car is a '75 Hurst/Olds......
 Another tag to this message:
Here in Nashville Tn.  In a yard called Larry Stewart Salvage yard, There sat
a 75 H/O with a good hood (I got the ornament, Lucky me, huh? and the Delco
Pleasure aire shock inc compressor and dial, hehehe) Anyway this H/O has ,for
the most part been stripped with the exceprion of the interior 1/4 trim to
block out the !/4 glass. But the HO badges are missing.  The interior is
white.

Anyone know where I can get a Digital Tach for a '74 H/O?  This will roundout
my otherwise NICELY equipped 74 Pace Edition.

David
('74 Y77 H/O Pace Car Replica)

------------------------------

From: david.chontofalsky@mcmail.vanderbilt.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 09:42:28 -0400
Subject: 1956 Olds Dealers Album

Over the years I have collected numerous dealers albums:
I have an almost mint large one for 1956(Olds),  and a small version for
1963(Olds), (both are complete), A small dealers hand book for 1967 Chrysler
and one large album for 1968 Chevrolet,  (all complete except for the Corvette
section) Anyone interested???  Make offers..... Also have a nice set of (6)
14" Olds wire spinner discs (3 prong) as pictured on the 1966 442 and Starfire
Also an Exceptional set (6) 13" Chevrolet wire spinner discs (3 prong)  for a
Corvair/Nova/Chevy II Also a complete set of '63 Spinners (14") with the
inserts painted white (the inserts on the disc color cordinated to the white
top, not the Rocket emblem,that is nice) Including 20 Clips.  These were off
my 1963 98 Custom Coupe.

David

------------------------------

From: david.chontofalsky@mcmail.vanderbilt.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 09:51:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Towing & History Center...was Re: A hearbreaking moment

question for me, though.  According to the sales stuff, my car (body code
837) is the Holiday SceniCoup.  Listed above that is the Holiday
SportSedan.  Hmmmm.  What makes it a SportSedan??  It cost about $80 more
than my SceniCoup.  The only model above the SportSedan is the
convertable.  I don't know, I always figured that since my car was a
two-door hardtop, and a 98 it was top of the line (short of a conv. of
course).  Anybody care to guess?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Anyway, write the history center if you haven't already.  It
rules!


  Scott
 1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

Scott,
HOLIDAY denoted a hardtop (no B pillars)
David


------------------------------

From: david.chontofalsky@mcmail.vanderbilt.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 09:56:19 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Toro Pic

Michael R. Frederick, CEO
EDIson3, Inc.
Tampa, Forida
(813) 210-8649
 Interested in a 1966 Mint Dealers brochure?

------------------------------

From: Gary Aranyos <Gary_Aranyos@IMPALA.FAC.CS.CMU.EDU>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 10:07:21 -0400
Subject: wiper park adjustment

Hi all,

  If your wipers on '78 up A & G bodies won't get over the trim piece along
the bottom of the windshield while parking, you need to adjust the connection
of the wiper motor crank-to-arm linkage.  There are two nuts (use a 10mm
socket) which you loosen, then you can slide the linkage one way or the other
until the wipers park properly.  It's a trial and error method and you should
close the hood after each iteration because the passenger side wiper will
sometimes get caught on the corner of an open hood.  These cars all use 18
inch blades.

  By the way, I recently inherited a '76 Supreme Brougham coupe with only
29,000 original miles!  My first Oldsmobile!  The car was Ziebarted so rust is
minimal.  I would like to option this car out and was wondering if anyone has
a line on a power seat track assembly for the 60/40 front seat, power windows,
locks, trunk and delay wipers.  A rear sway bar would also be nice, as would
the sales brochure and owner's manual.  I have the factory shop manual for
'76.

Thanks!

- --Gary

------------------------------

From: "wesf@hpdmm12.boi.hp.com" <wesf@hpdmm12.boi.hp.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 11:29:34 -0400
Subject: Re:  '75 4-4-2 / H/O Louvered Hood

From: eric_buckner@non-hp-om.cv.hp.com

>>>My car is a '75 Hurst/Olds......

> Wes, I don't know if this applies to you but I've got a line on a '75
> H/O hood w/louvers. Know anyone that may be interested?

Yes, it does apply Eric.  Mine is in perfect shape (knock on wood) so
I don't need one, BUT, it would be something to keep track of, for
someone with a '73-'75 4-4-2 or H/O.  There were very few of these
made that did not come on 4-4-2's or H/O's and the stamping can't
be easily duplicated.  I saw one on a special ordered Cutlass several
years back and left a note to let me know if they ever wanted to sell
the car.  Never heard from them.  In my younger (pre-kid) days, I
would buy the hood and keep it, but alas, the wife doesn't understand
stuff like that these days.  (Big sigh...)

I don't know of anyone that needs it, but certainly keep track of it!

Wes

------------------------------

From: "wesf@hpdmm12.boi.hp.com" <wesf@hpdmm12.boi.hp.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 11:37:42 -0400
Subject: Re:  Wiper blades

>> Anyone have a source or a good substitute for these?  Does GM still
>> carry them?  How many limbs and/or newborn children do they want for a
>> pair?
>
>I had the same problem...I still have the original Trico metal arms, and had
>to go to a universal blade since the new Anco and Trico refills only fit
>their new blade assemblies.  I used an 18" version from Pylon - they're sold
>at Wal-Mart and work great.

I've also noted some other things:

1) I've "stolen" the rubber wiper part from new blade packs, slipped them
   into the stock carriers and put them back on the car.  Works great!

2) I've replaced the old Trico blade assemblies with new ones (when I've
   broken the tabs and such).  It's really not all that expensive...

3) I have found that the "cheap" style of blade refills aren't quite as
   long (cross section through the blade) as the original stock blades,
   and they don't last as long.  As soon as the shorter, cheap rubber
   takes a set, they don't wipe as well.  You get what you pay for.

Wes Fujii

------------------------------

From: OLDSPWR@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 00:30:59 -0400
Subject: '73 442 Olds Parts...

If any one is interested, I have a few 73-75 Olds 442 parts for sale.  I am
not looking to get big bucks for them, but I would like to pass them on to
another Olds enthusiasts..

First of all I have a hood with the louvers.  It seems to be pretty straight
and has possibly been painted once or twice.  I would like to get about 50
bucks for it, but if anyone has any offers...

I also have the speedometer and factory gauges along with the woodgrain dash
pieces.  Anybody interested...

By the way, there are really no other parts salvagable from the car.  I am
from PA and the salt has really taken a severe beating on it.

                                                                    Tom
Millard






                                                              OLDSPWR@aol.com

------------------------------

From: Mark Wolfe <markw@wwa.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 13:15:14 -0400
Subject: Re: '75 Hurst/Olds

david.chontofalsky@mcmail.vanderbilt.edu wrote:
>
> Item Subject: cc:Mail Text
>      >>>My car is a '75 Hurst/Olds......
>  Another tag to this message:
> Here in Nashville Tn.  In a yard called Larry Stewart Salvage yard, There
sat a > 75 H/O with a good hood (I got the ornament, Lucky me, huh? and the
Delco > Pleasure aire shock inc compressor and dial, hehehe) Anyway this H/O
has ,for > the most part been stripped with the exceprion of the interior 1/4
trim to block > out the !/4 glass. But the HO badges are missing.  The
interior is white. > > Anyone know where I can get a Digital Tach for a '74
H/O?  This will roundout my > otherwise NICELY equipped 74 Pace Edition.


You might want to grab those trim pieces, if they are in good shape,
they can come in handy down the road, as that was an H/O only part.
Cul,
Mark

------------------------------

From: proietto@dow.on.doe.ca (Proietto, F.)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 14:05:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Small Block Camshaft

Tony,

correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the 16-18 the cam with a ~280 degree
duration with ~.494 lift? I think it is. It's been about 3 years since my
rebuild that I can't remember. I'll have to get out the papers to verify.

Another reason for purchasing this cam profile is that it is very close or
just a little more radical than the W-31 profile offered I think in '70 or
'71.

Your chioce of 500-800 over stock stall I think will make it work better. I
have to advance my timing close to 13-14 degrees at 1100 rpm inorder to make
the tires break lose at stand still, but I have other carb problems I need
to deal with as well.

One thing that made a very big improvement in break horse power was the
re-curve kit from accell. I switched the ingnition to an HEI and added a
re-curve kit . I put the lightest springs in and the car feels completely
different, for the better. The torque is has increased quite noticeably and
the shift kit works better.

Regards
Fernando Proietto

------------------------------

From: david.chontofalsky@mcmail.vanderbilt.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 14:54:47 -0400
Subject: Factory 4 speed in a 75 Cutlass parts and others

In calling the yard to see if the 75 H/O was still there (crushed last fall,
sorry) I am told that there is a 1975 Cutlass with a factory 4 speed there.
If Interested call Larry Stewarts Salvage Yard  here in Nashville Tn (615)
793-7571. This is a real "country bumpkin" I live in a trailer salvage yard.
But he has some neat stuff. Like a 1964 GP, a few early 60's Cadilliac Conv,s,
a 59 Pontiac hardtop, 62 Catalina SW.  He doesn't crush alot of cars, infact
he has a few 40 and 50 stuff including a 58 Edsel.  He has quite a few late
60's early 70's Delta 88's and 98's  and a ton of cutlass's..  One forsure is
a 1964 Ninety Eight holiday sedan It seems to be fairly rust free, so whomever
was looking for a 394, this fella has one.  Also has a 63 Ninety Eight Custom
Coupe with the tach/floor shift still intact (as of last fall)  So there is
another 394 (a Starfire Engine to boot, higher compression ,10.75 if I
remember correctly)  I got the rear bumper off this bad boy a few years ago.
He is reasonable with workin folks but I learned this when I bought some parts
and drove a 1975 datsun pickup, he was che ap,(but when I drove my H/O or the
Corvair Convertible, it seemed like the price tripled).  So, a word of advice
when dealing with this guy.  Be simple. David

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 15:40:58 -0400
Subject: Misc.

> From: Tony <3CQ9DELBALSO@vms.csd.mu.edu>
> Subject: Small Block Camshaft
> I am going to order a camshaft for my 350 in the next week or so.  I've got
my

> eye on the Mondello 16-18 hydralic.  The engine is going to be mild, number
8 > heads (unless I find a pair of 5 or 6's in the next 2 weeks), small dish >
pistons (stock high perf from 72, cast aluminum), and will be shaving some >
material off the heads (need to know the maximum allowable).  The crank is cas 
>
Tony

Tony, hold out for the good heads- #7a [subscript A] or earlier! that'd be
1972 or ealier... The #8's have a CAVERNOUS big-block sized 80cc chamber.
Trust me, I just went thru all this assembling a 350 with #8 heads, cuz they
were redone, and it was for sale, not for me.
   I cut like 0.060" off the heads, used very little-dish '70 HC pistons, and
STILL had trouble getting to >>> 8.2:1 <<< Compression. AVOID #8's! You will
be disapointed at best by the performance. Even a cam can only do so much. As
for shaving heads and its related changing things, be aware that the head
gasket is going to be about 0.030" thicker than stock, so you can shave that
much just to get the head back to where it was sitting originally. Thus, a 60
thou shave puts the head 30-40maybe thou closer to the head- hardly worth
woryying much about.
   DO check your lifter plunger depression when assembling- use shims or an
adjustable vavletrain to shoot for 0.050" or so lifter plunger preload
[=0.030" or so clr at the rocker pedestal].
  If you CAN'T find any early heads anywhere, gimme a call. I have  some.
Yeah, with speed gears [not acceleration gears] you might better stay with the
'motor home' cam- they kinda go together. Compression is still the most
important factor in making power.

I highly recommend you actually CC your pistons' dish- get a real number. If
naught else, MEASURE the dish diameter and depth as best you can- that'll get
you within a couple cc's of the correct figure. Assume about 10-11 cc's in the
head gasket, and 5-8 in deck clearance, and do the calculations. You'll see
that the # 8 heads are, to be kind, sub-optimal. Even if you shave 0.060 off,
that reduces the chamber size to maybe 72cc or so...  I thought I was going to
remove a cc per 0.005", but it did not work out that way...
   Contact me via private email for more info.

> cam, you need to buy the kit too, using old lifters with the new cam
> profile will likely lead to premature cam and/or lifter failure. If
> that happens it will occur sooner rather than later. As far as heads

Yah, definitely get new lifters- Engine Service Group has the best prices, at
under $2 each. See the web page for reference. www.442.com

> I would certainly pick up a Toronado oilpan, a Mondello oilpump
> (SP-775) and the R-100 Oil restrictor kit, these items will be
> relatively cheap but aiding in lots of longevity for your engine
> Mike

Um, a stock pump should suffice for a simple 350... But, yeah, if you are
modifying, spend the extra 100 for the Mondello pump & pickup [it's a bolt-on
pickup], and somebody here [Chris Urban?] has Toro oil pans galore. Get one.

> In the quest for speed it has a Torker intake, double pumper Holley,
> Hooker headers with glasspacks and a really trick set of neon orange spark
> plug wires. At least it has a new set of Radial T/A's, even if they are on
> a set of J.C. Whittney chrome wheels. All of this stuff will soon be
history.

Are you kidding? Those plug wires add like 50 hp. Each. I bet you there's a
set of vintage SplitFires in there, too. Check for a fuel line magnet, an air
filter 'turbocharger' and of course, the under-carb screen that 'better
atomizes the fuel droplets'. Throw those away, and you are losing about 200HP
right there. :)

> experiencing is lifter noise. Quite a bit infact. I installed the original
> length push rods but i don't thing they can handel the extra lift the cam
> has plus the fact that I used the fel-pro thick head gasket which increased
> the height. I will have to go with adjustable push rods later this spring.
> Just pondering if I should order them from Mondello or just buy them here in
> my city, Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
> Does anyone have a Mondello catalogue, check his price for a set of
> adjustable push rods for a 350 using the 16-18 cam?
> Fernando Proietto

Yeah, higher lift often comes from reduced base circle. That, plus the head
being 0.030 farther away, and the wear on the rockers and pedestals, add up to
little or no lifter preload- and thus lame ACTUAL duration and lift figures.
You MUST check lifter preload when assembling. We don't have the luxury of
adjustments like Blowties, unless we spend some $, so do it. Spend.
  I bleeve the APR's are about $100-140 a set. Then again, for $200-250 more,
you can get the adjustable ROLLER ROCKERS heh he he he... Adjustment problem
solved -plus-.

> >Would there be any *major* problems putting a 455
> >into an '84 Hurst Olds [used to have a 307]?
>
> Has anyone out there actually done it?  I have not, but I've talked to a
> couple of folks who have.  Basically, it bolts right in, there was one thing
> a guy had to space out an inch or so (good memory, eh?), but even
> accessories like A/C should be no problem.  However, if you want headers on
> this car, they run outside the fender wall a little and you won't be able to
> turn as sharply.  I'm not too sure why this wouldn't happen with a small
> block, but again I haven't done it so I'm just relying on other individual's
> experiences.
> Shawn M. Twomey     |  "No!  Try NOT!  Do, or do not.  There is no try."

I concur. It can be done; best done with stock dual xst manifolds.
Chris

> We repaired a tank on an old jeep by welding -- it worked out fine.
> JUST MAKE SURE YOU VENTILATE THE H*LL OUT OF
> THE TANK BEFORE YOU TRY WELDING OR YOU WON'T
> HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT ANYTHING ELSE!
> The 66 Toro and Mike

> Yeah... I used to volunteer for car repair at the regional mega-church
> near here, and we pulled a tank out of an old Regal for repairs one
> day. Filled it with water, did the welding, drained it, sloshed the
> alcohol drier around inside, and put the tank aside to dry until the
> next morning.
> Next morning rolls around, one of the guys retrieves the tank, then
> gets an idea in his head to do some touch-up work on it with the torch.
> Moments after he starts in on it...  Kah-WHONKKKK!!!! The alcohol fumes
> ignite inside and blow the tank out like a balloon. Mercifully, the
> metal holds together in one piece, and seating a strategically-placed,
> somewhat-porky employee on it compresses the sides of the tank back to
> its original shape. We dodged a _big_ bullet (or shrapnel) that day...
> Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431

There's ALWAYS some fumes left in a tank. Funny, tho, when I *tried* to blow
one up last year, had a hell of a time even getting it to bulge out... Hmmm.
Anyhow, yer choices are 1-buy new tank. If it's available, best bet by far. 2-
fill w/ water, as above, & DON'T flame on it after the water's drained. 3- put
about 5# of dry ice in it [even with water it's a good idea] to displace the
oxygen. Torch or weld away. If possible, strap/chain it down in case it does
go boom, and try not to work above it. All at your own risk of course! This is
nOT meant to be a definitive course in fuel tank welding! Chris

> I going to rebuild the engine and transmission in my 66 Toro (now
> all original) so I looking for suggestions.  The object is the
> following:
>     1) Performance!
>     2) Performance!
>         and, of course,
>     3) Performance!
> The 66 Toro and Mike

I replied directly to these guys... Good start, not much one can do to improve
on that engine without poking thru the hood. Nor is there much need to.
Chris

> Also my blower motor died. Are there any simple fixes I should look
> for before I replace it.  I already checked the wiring and fuses.

Run 12V right to the fan; if it works, the trouble lies in the wiring up to
it, if not, the fan motor is KO'd- they do wear out brushes after 20 years or
so. JCWhitney prolly has them for $25 or so. Chris

- ---the Toro Question---
>      Remember that
>         "how fast you want it to go" = "how much you want to spend"

Yeah, but it's not linear, it's logarithmic- a simple overhaul can run $1000
in parts & machine work, a performance engine [forged pistons, new valve
springs, etc. etc. quickly grows to $2-3K, and the long list of Mondello's
finest parts comes to about $7K. Each level kinda doubles the cost...

> I could use some help from 425 owners and Early-400 owners. I think I may
have > found a key to external ID of the 0.921" lifter/39 degree cam bank
angle > engines. Please, any owners or mechanics who have at their disposal
any >   65-67 425 engine >   65-67 400 engine, block casting ID "E" > Please
look at the rib that marks the block as a BB- on the RH end of the bloc > ID
shelf, just behind the water pump... the vertical rib that runs from the >
timing cover back to the intake... look on the top edge, probably along the RH 
>
side sort of, for a DRILL SPOT. Maybe up to 1/4" diameter, maybe at a 45 degre 
>
angle or so.  Kinda like they started to drill thru it or into it, then >
stopped. Should be obvious if it's there. >    Then, email to me, at the
address below- NOT HERE- A) whether or not your > block has a drill spot, and
B) what the block is for/from: '67 Toro, '66 > Police/Starfire, etc. C) IF you
know for sure, like if the block is dismantled > for easy measuring- whether
the block has the Sx45 lifters or the Lx39 lifters > wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

Come on, you non-Toro 425 owners! You KNOW you want an excuse to go out and
raise the hood and "lay hands on" your engine! I need more input from 442 400
engine folks and non-Toronado 425 engine folks!
  The idea is to be able to tell w/o dismantling the engine whether it's a
large lifter on common bank angle or small lifter on 45 degree angle block.
So's we can grab the best engines at the scrap metal yards...
Chris

> question for me, though.  According to the sales stuff, my car (body code
> 837) is the Holiday SceniCoup.  Listed above that is the Holiday
> SportSedan.  Hmmmm.  What makes it a SportSedan??  It cost about $80 more
>         Scott, 1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

Uh, sedans are gen'ly 4-doors, coupes being 2-doors.

> Chris Brown Witt wrote:
> > I could use some help from 425 owners and Early-400 owners. I think I may
ha - ------- etc > Chris, is this for a Toro?  I have a '66 that I am getting
ready to > rebuild.  I am not a mechanic.  I have done a valve job on an
engine > before but that was with some help. > I am concerned with who to
"trust" my engine with.  I am also going to > have the tranny rebuilt because
the car has sat for a long time.  Any > advice on how to pick someone to work
on them?  Any advice appreciated. > Conrad

Well, DON'T take it to a *hevy mechanic! Sealant on the head bolts, indeed!
*scoffs*  See the web page-look for Rocket Science :) I have a neat little
test for Olds-impairment judging, but it's at home, on Mac format, not easy to
get into these computers. Kinda humorous, kinda realistic. Not really ready to
use, yet. - --Chris--

> Chris:
> Not able to get thru to MSU so replying here.  Checked my Toronado
> and found the drill mark exactly where you said it would be.  Now
> what?  By the way -- is IS the original 425.

thankyouverymuch [Elvis impersonation]

> So how's the weather?
> The 66 Toro and Mike

Lots of beautiful fresh snow last night- it's so beautiful! Except where it
has turned brown and black in the road, and hangs from the fenders in giant
boogers that scrape the very ground.
  I know you wish you were here to take real advantage of that FWD in the
snow!

> Watch out for those Taiwanese chrome rocker covers.  The stockers have
> baffles above the rockers to keep oil out of the breather/PVC/filter
> depending on year.
> If the ones you bought from PAW (or anywhere else) don't haven, be prepared
> to be wiping a lot oil off your engine.

Good point. Actually the previous units were cheapos- no baffles at all. THAT
I can remedy with a sheetmetal insert or whatever. The prev. units however
cracked at the mounting flange- not very easy to fix. Prolly due to the *hevy
mechanic that put 'em on. "Yeah, on a *hevy, we got only 4 bolts, ya know, so
we tork em to about 100-150 maybe..."

- ---Toros---
> >     If ya got the budget, how about a fully Mondello-built 455 with the
> >     works.  Lower the compression a tad and then slap on one (or two if
> >     you like) of those Paxton style under-the-hood superchargers.
> May not be able to do the blower...Toros don't have much (if any) under-hood
> clearance.
> - -Gregg, the '67 Toro guy

Hmmmm, seems to me like the engine at the REOTMuseum with the 2 turbos has
many Toro attributes- oil pan, carb#, intake... like it was a developmental
Toro Turbo engine. Or, was that the red OHC engine? Photos soon to be on the
web page! - --Chris--

> >I would like to keep in touch.  Have you gone to "Kanters" page?  They
> >have a great catalog that lists a lot of parts for the TORO.
>
> How about some info (like the web page address) for Kanter's.  Thanks!

See the web page- it links right up from www.442.com!
My experience with Kanter's is that they are great IF you buy all your parts
at once in one kit- like they say, they want you to "do it once & do it
right". BUT if you start buying the cam & springs from Mondello, say, and this
here and that there, then you lose the great package pricing they offer. Good
news is, they have parts for even the most obscure engines, like the early
400's for the 442's. Try finding early 400 pistons at Mondello... you MIGHT
find some reworked Chrysler pistons, with a slightly different compression
height... but that's about it. - --Chris--

> I remember reading on the mail list not to long ago that when you install a
> elect. pump, you should leave the mech. pump in place and plug the
> inlet/outlet instead of putting on a block off plate.
> Can anyone comment on this??
> Cory Roadarmel

Saves effort- that's about all. If you can make or buy a blockoff plate, why
not clear that area up a bit?
- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 15:34:38 -0400
Subject: Re: '73 442 Olds Parts...

>I also have the speedometer and factory gauges along with the woodgrain dash
>pieces.  Anybody interested...
>
>By the way, there are really no other parts salvagable from the car.  I am
>from PA and the salt has really taken a severe beating on it.

Back when I had a '76 with factory gauges, someone mentioned to me that
the little top-of-the-dash "FASTEN SEAT BELTS" light was very sought
after, since it only went on Cutlass with factory gauges. Dunno for sure
(the same lamp housing was used on wagons, I think, for "TAILGATE AJAR"),
but you might want to salvage yours for the future if you've got one.
- --
Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: david.chontofalsky@mcmail.vanderbilt.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 15:59:31 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: '73 442 Olds Parts...

>I also have the speedometer and factory gauges along with the woodgrain dash
>pieces.  Anybody interested...
>
>By the way, there are really no other parts salvagable from the car.  I am
>from PA and the salt has really taken a severe beating on it.

Back when I had a '76 with factory gauges, someone mentioned to me that
the little top-of-the-dash "FASTEN SEAT BELTS" light was very sought
after, since it only went on Cutlass with factory gauges. Dunno for sure
(the same lamp housing was used on wagons, I think, for "TAILGATE AJAR"),
but you might want to salvage yours for the future if you've got one.
XXXXXXXXXXTHE ABOVE IS TRUE EVEN AS FAR AS BACK AS 1974, and possible
1973XXXXXXX
- -
Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 17:54:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Rebuilding the 66

I have a toronado question.  What kind of torque converter does the toro
transaxle use?  Is it compatible with 350/400 converters?  Are there high
performance units available if it is not?

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

From: JK McCall <jkmccall@QBC.Clic.Net>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 21:46:10 -0400
Subject: Cruise Control:

Quick question:

I'm having some problems with my cruise control. (82 Delta 88)  Each time
I engage it, it goes to full throttle.  Now that might be OK for short
periods of time but this car has close to 260K and I tend to baby it when
it comes to tromping on it. (original 307)

I have a Haynes manual but its pretty vague when it talks about the
cruise system.  It says the system consists of:

1)  servo motor (known)
2)  clutch switch (unknown, is it in the unit that houses the speedo in
and speedo out? )
3)  brake switch (known)
4)  control switches (known)
5)  relay (unknow, I imagine its tucked up somewhere under the dash???)
6)  associated vacumn hoses (known, no leaks)

Like I said earlier, when I engage it, it gives full vacumn to the vacumn
servo motor and thus accelerates the vehicle.  I figure it might be the
relay (anyone know its exact location) or the clutch switch (which I
don't know where it is located or how it works).  Any help with this
would be greatly appreciated.

Tanks in advance.

Joe McCall

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 18:39:45 -0400
Subject: Re: 455 -> '84 H/O

Word is the A6 radial compressor is better than the newer, smaller ones.
Not sure why, but they are supposed to be more durable.

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 19:07:21 -0400
Subject: Re: 455 -> '84 H/O

>Word is the A6 radial compressor is better than the newer, smaller ones.
>Not sure why, but they are supposed to be more durable.

Actually the A6 is an axial compressor (driven by a swash plate inside,
I think), whereas the newer, smaller R-4 is the radial design, and yes,
the R-4 gets trashed a lot more than the A6. If you buy a car with a
bad R-4 on it, budget for having to buy a new one just in case, whereas
you can risk buying a used replacement A6 from a junkyard. Been there,
done that.
- --
Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 19:16:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Rebuilding the 66

> >I would like to keep in touch.  Have you gone to "Kanters" page?  They
> >have a great catalog that lists a lot of parts for the TORO.
>                                     ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>
> How about some info (like the web page address) for Kanter's.  Thanks!
>
>

		It's http://www.kanter.com if I'm not mistaken.  One of
the few addresses I can remember (like www.edelbrock.com, or www.442.com!!)

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 19:13:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Cruise Control:

>2)  clutch switch (unknown, is it in the unit that houses the speedo in
>and speedo out? )

I think they're referring to manual-shift cars here; if you had one, it
would be a plunger over your clutch pedal, similar to the one you have
over your brake pedal, to cancel cruise when you put the clutch in and
prevent over-revving the engine.

>I figure it might be the
>relay (anyone know its exact location) or the clutch switch (which I
>don't know where it is located or how it works).  Any help with this
>would be greatly appreciated.

*sigh*... Those things are a pain to diagnose, but in my experience
the offending part has most often been the cruise module itself.
Fortunately it's fairly easy to swap in a different one for a quick
road test. I would "borrow" one off another car for ten minutes and
see if it makes a difference.
- --
Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 19:14:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Towing & History Center...was Re: A hearbreaking moment

> SportSedan.  Hmmmm.  What makes it a SportSedan??  It cost about $80 more
> than my SceniCoup.  The only model above the SportSedan is the
> convertable.  I don't know, I always figured that since my car was a
> two-door hardtop, and a 98 it was top of the line (short of a conv. of
> course).  Anybody care to guess?
>
> Scott,
> HOLIDAY denoted a hardtop (no B pillars)
> David
>
	Hmmm.  Seems you're right.  The Dynamic 88 had the most body
styles available, and they list a 2 Door Sedan, a Celebrity Sedan (4
door?) a Holiday Scenicoup (2 door hardtop), a Holiday Sportsedan (Cary
suggested a 4 door hardtop, and that would seem to be what it is), a
Convertable Coup, and 2 Fiestas (two or three seat wagons).
	
	In the 98, there is the Celebrity Sedan, the Holiay Scenicoup,
the Sportsedan, and the convertable coup.  Boy, they had some pretty cool
names for that stuff back then!
	
	It's also interesting to note that on the Super 88 and Dynamic 88
the most expensive models were the wagons.  It's just kind of ironic
since a nice convertable will fetch a whole lot more than the wagon ever
will.
	
		Scott
	1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: JK McCall <jkmccall@QBC.Clic.Net>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 22:37:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Cruise Control:

Andrew C. Green wrote:
>
> >2)  clutch switch
> I think they're referring to manual-shift cars here; if you had one, it
> would be a plunger over your clutch pedal, similar to the one you have
> over your brake pedal, to cancel cruise when you put the clutch in and
> prevent over-revving the engine.
>

OK, that solves that, thanks (don't have one)


> (module) Fortunately it's fairly easy to swap in a different one for a quick
> road test. I would "borrow" one off another car for ten minutes and
> see if it makes a difference.

Done that, in fact I'm on my 3rd module.  So it must be the
relay....where ever that is....

Thanks Andrew

------------------------------

From: Brad Nicholson <76062.3042@compuserve.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 19:58:00 -0400
Subject: Wiper Bades

I can still get the ANCO blade refills for my '87 442 from a local parts
store, not one of the BIG chains, I'll see if they are still available.  They
were 6 months ago when I got 2 pairs off the shelf.

Brad Nicholson
President, Capitol City Rockets
76062.3042@compuserve.com

------------------------------

From: BYLN96A@prodigy.com ( GLENN CONNORS)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 20:26:38 -0400
Subject: FYI

Just found this listed in 'autos marketplace'. Somebody here might be
interrested.

rec.autos.marketplace
[1] FS:  1966 Oldsmobile Toronado
Laurie.Cagnetta@yale.edu



1966 Oldsmobile Toronado:  One owner, documented, 27,000 miles (had
use of
company car since purchase), white with black interior.  Garage kept,
storage
for past 5 years.  Asking $8500.  Call Leo at 718-259-0972


Sounds neat to me.

Glenn
'69 4-4-2

------------------------------

From: Tony <3CQ9DELBALSO@vms.csd.mu.edu>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 20:57:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Small Block Camshaft

Tony,

correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the 16-18 the cam with a ~280 degree
duration with ~.494 lift? I think it is. It's been about 3 years since my
rebuild that I can't remember. I'll have to get out the papers to verify.

******	It has .472in intake lift, .488in exhaust lift, 256 and 260 
degrees
duration (int & exh).This camshaft has almost exactly the same lift on intake
as the W31, more lift on the exhaust.  This cam has much less duration.   This
allows it to work better at lower rpms, and with lower compression.


I just refigured my CR, I must have made a mistake the first time.  With the
#8 heads, it is 8.4.  With .05'' shaved from the #8 heads, it is 9.1.  With #5
heads, we get 9.7.  9.7 I think might be too high for unleaded gas, anyone
know?

Tony

------------------------------

From: XDSG80A@prodigy.com (MR JASON P LABAY)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 20:56:24 -0400
Subject: 68 Olds '98 350

I just got in a 68 Olds 98 with a 350 4bbl. Question is...are any
parts off this engine worth swapping on to my 75 H/O with a W-25 350.
Like heads, etc? For better performance? Thanks...

Jason
75 H/O W-25

------------------------------

From: John Schmich <schmich@AZStarNet.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 20:58:36 -0400
Subject: 83-84 H/O fuel pump

     I just went to the local parts store buying the new parts for the 307
that will be done soon.   Went in thinking that every 307 had the same fuel
pump but actually the computer gave me three options.  They are listed below:
1.  AC Delco Mech. fuel pump with out Hurst option; VIN Y; open loop
2.  AC Delco Mech. fuel pump with Hurst option; VIN Y; open loop
3.  AC Delco Mech. fuel pump; VIN 9; closed loop
     What I'm asking is did the H/O in fact come with a different fuel pump
than a regular 307, and what was the purpose of it (came with same Q-jet)?
What does it mean by open loop or closed and which do I want for a high
perfromance application?  Also maybe you could help me out with the VIN
codes, I thought if you had a Y you had the H.O. 307.
     I got one more question, for this high performance engine am I going to
need a new or high performance harmonic balancer (such as H/O option)?  Saw
on Shadetree Mechanics on Sunday that they highly recomend that I do buy a
new one?
     Tom, H.O. 307 owners, anybody? I need the help!!!!!
     Thanks

     Brandon

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 21:34:23 -0400
Subject: Shadetree Mechanic...wasRe: 83-84 H/O fuel pump

>      I got one more question, for this high performance engine am I going to
> need a new or high performance harmonic balancer (such as H/O option)?  Saw
> on Shadetree Mechanics on Sunday that they highly recomend that I do buy a
     ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

	I watched an episode of that a couple weeks ago, and I got a kick
out of some of their "mechanics tips"...like "Before installing anthing
on your vehicle, read the manufacturers' instructions first."
	Wow!  Really?  Man, right at that momemt, I felt pretty smart! |)
  That was the episode where they took a brand new Dodge Ram pickup and
added a whole bunch of stuff like a winch, cap, fender flares, etc. to
show how you could "transform" your truck in one weekend into something
really special.  What they failed to mention was the fact that all that
stuff would run about half of what they paid for the truck!!  Anybody
ever see them do anything with an Olds?  I'm curious since I'm not a
regular viewer, I just happened to be watching that day.

	
			Scott
		1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 21:36:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Small Block Camshaft

>From what I hear, Olds combustion chamber and piston design (round, open
chamber, dished piston) works well to combat detonation and raise
acceptable street compression ratio.  I am running close to 10:1 on
Supreme 92 octane and it works fine.

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

From: urbanch@magi.com (Chris Urban)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 21:47:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Small Block Camshaft

>When you run a camshaft that requires a higher stall you have to keep in
mind that this only really comes into play if you have traction, otherwise
the cars tires will breal loose and then obviously the engine is in its
powerband. Its also nice to hear about someone taking the time to set their
timing properly as I mentioned here not long ago and see that there is a
significant difference to be had by doing so.
>
>Your chioce of 500-800 over stock stall I think will make it work better. I
>have to advance my timing close to 13-14 degrees at 1100 rpm inorder to make
>the tires break lose at stand still, but I have other carb problems I need
>to deal with as well.
>
>One thing that made a very big improvement in break horse power was the
>re-curve kit from accell. I switched the ingnition to an HEI and added a
>re-curve kit . I put the lightest springs in and the car feels completely
>different, for the better. The torque is has increased quite noticeably and
>the shift kit works better.
>
>Regards
>Fernando Proietto
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: urbanch@magi.com (Chris Urban)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 22:04:53 -0400
Subject: Re: 68 Olds '98 350

How about the entire engine?


>I just got in a 68 Olds 98 with a 350 4bbl. Question is...are any
>parts off this engine worth swapping on to my 75 H/O with a W-25 350.
>Like heads, etc? For better performance? Thanks...
>
>Jason
>75 H/O W-25
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: OLDSPWR@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 22:18:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine swap...

In a message dated 96-03-05 05:39:20 EST, you write:

>So, does that older crossmember need any mods?  I have completely
>overlooked that possibility on my car.

Yes, it does!  The older body style was a bit wider, so the cross member will
have to be shortened.  When I first narrowed mine, I removed about 1" from
both sides only to find out that the mounting plate for the tranny mount was
not directly located in the middle!!!  (Not to mention that it took forever
to cut it with a hacksaw...)  So I would imagine that you have to remove
about 2" from one side and leave the other side alone.  But double check it,
I'm sure it will definetly work.

Another thing to keep in mind is that the original cross member is offset,
and the older one will be straight.  On my car I mounted it to the lower
portion of the frame instead of up on the original mounts (don't think it
will work like that...) To put the cross member in the correct position
though you will have to remove part of the original mounts.  When I did this
I added support to the spot it was located with some flat stock.

I hope this helps you out, but if you don't understand how to mount it, just
give me a yell again and I will see if I can explain it better!

                                                   Tom Millard
                                                   OLDSPWR@aol.com

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From: OLDSPWR@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 23:21:22 -0400
Subject: '73 Olds Speedometer...

Does anybody know if there is a 'mph' difference between the speedometers
that came with the factory gauges vs. the dummy lights?

                                                 Thanks for your help,
                                                 Tom Millard, OLDSPWR

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #110
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