
oldsmobile-digest           Tuesday, 4 June 1996        Volume 01 : Number 194


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 10:32:13 -0300
Subject: Re: License Plates 

> I had plates from IL on my Olds and requested special numbers, memory
> serves right didn't cost extra.

Oh, yes, it did. The state does not do favors for free.

> Had (poptp 71) on my convertible.

Good one.  :-)

That would have been $11 extra up front, nothing extra at renewal time,
since your combination ends with at least one number.

>I thought it was just any combo of 7 letters and numbers.

Maximum, yes, although all the letters have to come before all the numbers
on passenger cars; on light trucks it's the other way around. (For movies
shot here, BTW, they supply fake IL license plates, usually with the
not-in-real-life pattern letter/digit/letter/space/3-more-characters; 
e.g. "The Fugitive", "Midnight Run")

Oh, and if you're real careful in reading the directions, they say you
can add spaces where you want by writing a slash in. I guess the spacing
looks better when you have fewer letters, of course...

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 11:03:17 -0300
Subject: Re: 1984 Cutlass V-6 

>Stayed there an hour and this time the oil light stayed on
>for about 2 blocks and the ticking noise was much more noticeable.  Parked
>the car in front of my house and checked the oil.  It was full, but very
>dirty in appearance.
[...]
>Now here are my questions.  First, how does one know if the passages are
>clogged or if the oil pump itself is the problem?

First, my overall impression from what you've told us is that possibly
this car was started up and sold after sitting for a long time, partly
because of what you say you paid and partly because something significant
went wrong not immediately (during the test drive) but after the car was
put under its first real load in a long time (your drive home with it).
I think your oil pump is going south on you. Normally you would suspect
the sending unit first, but you're describing all kinds of extra sound
effects that you don't get with a simple bad sending unit. Put an oil
gauge on just to be sure, though.

>If the engine is clogged,
>how can the passages be cleaned without adding to the problem of more gunk
>being loosened up and clogging a passage even more?

Once it's loosened by fresh oil, it will be carried along and trapped in
the new oil filter you'll install. After 500 miles, change it all again.
By then you should be seeing some improvement: the oil takes longer to
get dirty and the engine sounds smoother. Skip the idiot oil additives
and just put good oil and filters on it.

>I've had several
>suggestions from the half-assed mechanics around here, but something about
>putting 4 quarts of diesel fuel or ATF and one quart of oil in the crankcase
>and running the engine makes me shiver!

It should; this is one way you _can_ recognize the half-assed mechanics.
BTW, the Chicago Tribune had a great item in yesterday's automotive section
on why dumping ATF into the crankcase is a bad idea, how it's basically
highly-refined mineral oil (I think it said) but with all the wrong oil
additives for an engine.

>Here is my plan of action and reasoning behind it.  First I will try
>changing the oil & filter to see if perhaps the current oil is just so old
>and thin that it makes it hard to get pressure once the oil is hot.

Fine. You can get an idea of the age of the oil by the physical appearance
of the old oil filter. Is it starting to rust?  ;-)

>Any
>suggestions on a good oil for this purpose (considering that the passages
>may be clogging)?

Ehhh... at this point I would say any major brand advertised during important
basketball games would be good enough. My favorites are AC-Delco or Valvoline
5W-30 oil, and AC or Fram filters. Buy whatever brand you've heard of that's
on sale at the moment...

>I suppose if this doesn't help, I will be looking for an
>additive which will clean the passages without furthering the clogging if
>that is in fact the problem.

Naah. I guess you could try a quart of that motor crankcase flush stuff
that you add to the old oil, then run at idle for 5 minutes before draining
(and let it drain a _long_ time; e.g. an hour or more), but beyond that I'd
just do a couple of short-term oil-and-filter changes and marvel at how
much improvement you'll see.

>Any suggestions short of pulling the engine
>will be appreciated.  I'm not sure if the oil pan can be removed without
>pulling the engine, but I will also be looking into that possibility.

Dunno; I kind of think on your car you'll have to release the mounts and
jack/hoist the engine up a bit. But in any event, I think a mechanical
oil gauge will tell you that your oil pump is going.

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 12:15:13 -0300
Subject: Re: Neoprene rear main seals 

In a message dated 96-06-01 00:17:34 EDT, you write:

>Yes, I just did seals, bearings, etc, and the gasket kit I got was a
>Fel-Pro.  It had a two piece neoprene rear main seal included in it.  One
>tip I got from that boat engine mechanic uncle of mine was to install the
>two halves of the seal offset from the surfaces of the block and cap to
>prevent oil leakage from between the mating surfaces of the block and cap.
>Didja get that??  I installed mine that way and don't have any drips back
>there.

Those are the instructions included with the seal, at least the ones I
bought.

Bob Handren OCA# 7728

------------------------------

From: BobH592058@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 12:15:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Neoprene rear main seals 

In a message dated 96-05-31 20:14:20 EDT, you write:

>Under description it says, "1-piece design", if that helps.
>This was a '92 edition, BTW.
>
>This is the wrong seal. The correct Ford 460 seal is a 2 piece. Just thought
>I'd save someone the headache of getting the wrong seal after all this

I said I didn't trust the Ford p/n.  Rest assured the Fel-Pro seal is a two
piece.  I have personally built several BB Olds' using this seal.  It is
correct.

I haven't built an SB Olds, ever.  So I can't make any other statements.

Bob Handren OCA# 7728

------------------------------

From: "Bruce D. Brumm" <bdbrumm@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 15:17:11 -0300
Subject: Re: 1984 Cutlass V-6

G. Douglas Burton wrote:

<snip>

> being loosened up and clogging a passage even more?  I've had several
> suggestions from the half-assed mechanics around here, but something about
> putting 4 quarts of diesel fuel or ATF and one quart of oil in the crankcase
> and running the engine makes me shiver!
> 
> Here is my plan of action and reasoning behind it.  First I will try
> changing the oil & filter to see if perhaps the current oil is just so old
> and thin that it makes it hard to get pressure once the oil is hot.  Any
> suggestions on a good oil for this purpose (considering that the passages
> may be clogging)? 

I had a similar problem in my '84 307.  After about 5000 miles on an oil
change (always Penzoil 10W-30), oil light would come on during stops and
when turning corners.

A story relating to above:  Coming back from Christmas vacation in the
U.P. of Michigan (far west end -- Calumet, MI hometown, USA!).  I was
heading south on I-75 just north of Saginaw.  I had been cruising along
all day at about 65-70MPH when WHAM!!! the engine has a MAJOR hiccup.  No
oil light came on, etc.  Slowed down to around 50MPH and drive for a few
more miles listening intently to the motor.  Nothing.  Speed back up. A
mile or so later, WHAM!! same thing again.  This time take first 
available exit and check oil level.  Level OK. Right on the money.  Oil
is very hot and seems thin and is definitely dirty.  Get back on freeway.
Three miles or so later, WHAM!! again!  Just outside of Saginaw, so I
pull off freeway and immediately begin hunt for a quick oil change place.
Found one that was open on Sunday night (!), changed oil, checked it for
metal shavings, etc. (none :) <- HUGE smile) and drove home without
further incident(~50 miles).  

Moral:  Change your oil @3K!  5000 miles on a change MAY be OK, but running all 
        day just finished it off, I think.  I guess what I heard/felt was a 
        bearing(s) "knocking" when the oil lost its viscosity -- no more 
        hydro-dynamic wedge.  That sound would put the fear of God into any
        devout atheist!

Happy Motoring!
- -- 

Bruce D. Brumm (bdbrumm@ix.netcom.com)
Network & Systems Administrator
LDM Technologies, Inc.
Troy, MI

'84 Cutlass Supreme 307-Y
'86 Cutlass Salon 307-Y

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 13:28:21 -0300
Subject: Introduction (fwd)

This was addressed to "oldsmobile-owner" so I don't know if it made it to 
the list or not. Apologies if this is a duplicate...

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada


- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 09:08:00 -0300
From: Todd.Saunders@mailport.delta-air.com
To: oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Subject: Introduction

     Hello
     
     I would like to introduce myself.
     
     My name is Todd Saunders and I am an Engineer for Delta Air Lines here 
     in Atlanta GA.  
     
     Currently, I have a mixture of autos, a 1987 Mustang GT Convert. 
     (daily driver), a 1984 Chevy S-10 (to haul parts for the continuously 
     broken aforementioned 5.0), and a 1984 Corvette (Toy).
     
     I have seen a few Olds cars out there that I really like and am in the 
     --info gathering-- stage of my purchase.  What I have seen I think is 
     a 1970 Olds Cutlass convertible.  I am looking for something rough and 
     in need of restoration.  My question to all of you experts, is what 
     should I look for?  Please keep in mind that I am interested in only 
     driving the vehicle for fun.  I do not want a 100-points car and wipe 
     it with a diaper every Sunday.
     
     My only criteria are as follows:
     
     Olds 1970 or thereabouts
     Convertible
     prefer 455 engine
     prefer automatic
     
     Is there a CUTLASS convertible or are they all 442 Convertibles?
     What is the difference?
     
     I will admit it now, I am just about as illiterate as they come about 
     Olds.   But, hopefully with your help, that all will change and I will 
     make the right investment.
     
     Thanks in advance
     
     Tinker Todd
     
     todd.saunders@mailport.delta-air.com

X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.4 PL25]
Content-Type: text/plain
Precedence: bulk

A friend claims there is, in Indiana cornfield, a 1966 442 convertible awaiting
restoration. MTrans, no engine. That's all I know about it. Really interested
parties can investigate further...

- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 14:19:52 -0300
Subject: Re: more '68ness

On Mon, 3 Jun 1996, Darren Shroeger wrote:
> Okay, here's the cowl tag info line by-line:
> 
> BODY BY FISHER
> 11D
> ST  68-33687 LAN198234 BODY
> L2 PAINT
> 
> Can y'all tell me exactly what I've got?

OK, Darren, here's what my '68 service manual tells me.

11D	Time code (date built). I assume 11D= April 11th
ST  68-33687	68= model year
		33687= body type

I hate to tell you this. It isn't a 4-4-2. 33687 is a Cutlass "S" V-8 
Holiday Coupe. Are you sure it doesn't say 34487? That would be a 4-4-2.

LAN 198234	Unit number. Car was built in Lansing, Mich.

L2	L=Teal Blue lower body color, Dupont # 4893L
	2=upper body or convertible top cover (2= black)

> Teal Blue car looks like? I'm tempted to change the body color to Ocean
> Turquoise or some other cool '68 color that would
> be more representative of the sixties. Or is it a Bad Thing to change the
> original color??
> I do need both outer headlight  bezel trim pieces, by the way.

Call some body shops in town and see if they have any paint chip charts 
for GM for '68. Many will. I think that most GM makes shared the same 
colors back then in a given model year and just gave them different 
names. For example, my '68 is Scarlet (Olds name) but the same color in 
Ch*vys that year was called Matador Red. Same for the yellow: Saffron in 
Olds, Butternut Yellow in Ch*vy.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: J.Easton@zds.com (Jeff Easton)
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 13:43:13 -0300
Subject: MT Shifter boot

     >From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@kfmw.net>
     >Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 17:39:22 -0300
     >Subject: Re: '68 442: got it!
     
     >...  Also, I hope that your boot is in good shape, because you cannot 
     >get the non-console boot anywhere.  I am in need of one myself.
     
       If its the same as the 1970 442, you can still get the boot.
     
       My car does not have the console, and there is one rather large boot 
     that screws to the floor.  I've read that console cars used the same 
     boot but got a second boot on the console as well.
     
     >- -Dan
     
     -Jeff Easton
     Zenith Data Systems
     
     1970 442  4-speed

------------------------------

From: SG Hartfelder <shartfel@planet.eol.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 16:19:10 -0300
Subject: Step Plates

Hi guys.  I've been away a few days while my company was changing 
internet providers.  If you notice my new e-mail address is 
shartfel@planet.eon.net

I've been scouring my rod magazines and can't seen to find where I could 
get an antique 'Step Plate'.  If you recall, in the old days some 
manufacturers would place a chrome step plate on the running board for 
protection & looks.

I have the rubber for each running board but I'm not that thrilled with 
their appearance so I'm now leaning toward those step plates.

Any idea's where I could find them?

*********************************************
SG Hartfelder         Voice:403-498-8264
10009-108 St.           Fax:403-425-4627
Edmonton, AB  T5J 3C5
CANADA                shartfel@planet.eon.net

'1938 Olds  --  Street Rod

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 14:16:00 -0300
Subject: Re: overheat...wrong pulleys?? 

>     If someone could measure both pulley diameters for the 455ci. 4bbl.
>(built to '70 specs), it would help immensely.  Any other suggestions or
>comments would be greatly appreciated.

Have you got a good fan shroud installed? Others here have said in the
past that it helps a _lot_ to ensure that air is being drawn through the
radiator, not around it...

P.S. Completely unrelated note: About five minutes ago a runner carried
the Olympic flame past our office on the way to an event on the lakefront.
It had eight zillion police cars and five thousand Coca-Cola corporate 
vehicles escorting it, but it was still nice to see.  :-)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: tmorris@BT1DC18E.bet.ibm.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 16:36:43 -0300
Subject: wanted 442 

Hey everybody, I'm still looking to buy a nice driver 442, 4 sp, preferably                                            
66-67, or 69-72 years, non-convertible.  If you have any leads, pls email me.                                          
thanks.                                                                                                                
                                                                                                                       
Todd Morris

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 17:00:10 -0300
Subject: Today's stuff

> From: OLDSPWR@aol.com
> Subject: I need 403 help...
>
> How about some help?  I went to replace the rear main on my 403 last week and
> it turns the out bearings (both rod and mains) were wore after only 15000
> miles.  So to add to my daze of confusion, it turns out that 5 rods were
> pressed on the pistons 180 degrees differently than the other 3.  So I

Only one wrong one, then, huh? Should be 4 one way, 4 the other.

> understood that the rod bearing tangs faced the oil pan rail.  But after
> receiving Mondello's tech manual today, it states that the tangs of the
> bearings face the opposite piston or towards the inside on the block.

I concur.

> This leads me to this question:  The rod caps have a slight angle (approx.
> 45) on one side.  These caps are different that the common 350/455 rod caps.
>  Do the angles face the crank journals or face each other.  (/- -\ or -\ /-

That "chamfer" is there to accomodate the radius ground where the crank journal
turns up to become the rods' side support surface. Chamfer should be where
radius is- not next to other rod.

> for lack of a better description).  If the angles face the crank journals,
> the bearing tangs face the pan rail, and if they face each other, the tangs
> face the inside.

Are you SURE? All rods are same? Hey, Maybe the Heinous Manual was correct. The
important point is where the chamfer is, not the tangs [unless the tangs also
incorporate a spit hole for lubrication- not likely on a 403].
- -Chris-

> Does anyone know if there are aftermarket fuel injection systems (TPI,
> EFI...etc)  for 455 engines? Or does anyone know of anyone who will design
> and build them. I have a 69 455 that I'd like to fuel inject.  No Holley
> Projection systems. Is it possible to modify TPI system off a chevy 454 to
> fit an Oldsmobile?

Yeah, Dick Miller Racing at 517-782-2012 will hook ya right up, and lighten
that pesky heavy hard to sit on wallet for ya *simultaneously*, what a deal.

- --69 455 vs 75 455--
> > What do you think?
>
> I don't know if there were any significant quality differences in the 455
- --heads, rotators, hard seats, dist'r, 4V carb listed as points in favor? of
the '75 engine... by Greg --

Well, later, when it comes time to show to folks or sell, there's the audince
reaction from the Olds-clued... What kinda 455?
A1: 1975 with J heads. Response: Oh.... [disenchanted]
A2: 1969 with C heads. Response: Oh, my! [excited, further interest ensues...]
- --Chris--

> Oh well, if I had just walked in to that earlier that day! I did find a
> Offenhauser 3-2v intake manifold there for $50, didn't buy, didn't have
> $50 bucks on me! I thought that might have been a good deal...
> Mike

Mike, Mike, Mike... did you get the phone#? aaaaaaagh! -Chris-

> Subject: Dreamer
> >From the Sunday Tampa Tribune:
>  --------------------------------
>  | OLDS 1966 TORONADO frame     |
>  | off restoration over $22,000 |
>  | Asking $13,500 813-654-1134  |
>  --------------------------------
> Yeah, right.  Another price list believer.
>   (Must be that serial #00000001)
> The 66 Toro and Mike

Car #1 is at the Museum here in Lansing. I sent Bryce photos of it... I hope
this guy's not an investment banker... "Hey, that $22,000 you gave me to
invest... I invested in old cars, turned it into.... $13,500 !!!"
Sorta redefines 'investment' huh?  --Chris--

> Neither engine is a slouch, so you probably can't go

Hmmm. I disagree. I'd actually go so far as to define the smogger 455's a
"slouch" motors.  --Chris--

> the lower compression for unleaded gas...  For comparison, here are the
> stats for a '75 455 with 4 bbl:  190 Hp, 350 lb/ft, 8.5 compression.

We lost 100 HP there somewhere... Sure, a lot of it was in switching to the way
HP was rated, w/ or w/o accessories attached... but...

> Subject: 1984 Cutlass V-6
>
> A short time ago (over the weekend), I purchased said vehicle.  Took it for

> It went out as soon as I pulled away from the stop sign.  Then I let my son
> out at his house and with the car sitting there at idle the light came on.

Any evidence of coolant in the oil? Gray sludged on the oil fill cap innards or
dipstick?

- --403 ass'y--
>   "NOTE: Connecting rod does not require specific orientation to the piston,
> but notch in piston must face front of engine"

My currently apart 403 shows similar chamfers on BOTH sides of the rods.
- -Chris-

> So according to the shop manual, the heck with the chamfers, it's the notch
> that matters.

But, notch is on PISTON, was never an issue. The Q of the day is, does ROD
orientation matter- does he need to have them pressed off and back on to ensure
that rods' chamfers face the right direction?
- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 17:26:46 -0300
Subject: Solid main web 403's

> > From: Mike Hall <mikehal1@ix.netcom.com>
> > Subject: 403 Solid Webs!
> >
> > 403 Olds Solid Main Web Engines
> > 2500 produced
> > Block Casting #557265-4A or 553990-4A
> > Mostly found in certain 1977 Buick Station Wagons built in 1976.
> > Can be found in Pontiac Bonneville (year?) with tow package.
> > Can also be found in 1979 Pontiac Trans Am with tow package and block
> > casting #554990-4A
> > Block casting number is found behind the timing cover between the oil
> > fill tube and the oil sending unit.
> > Source: Mondello Olds V-8 Engine Technical Reference Manual
> > Michael R. Hall                            Ortonville, Michigan

Yeah, I finally got my book, too... critique later, there's a few points that I
am disenchanted with but I guess I expected too much. It is far & away the best
source of Olds technical matter we have [until I publish mine... :) ].
  Among the things I noticed was, first, the Solid Main Web 403 info as stated
above... The USUAL 403 block is "4B" with "4A" heads, so the KEY, FOLKS, seems
to be:
- -------------------- LOOK FOR 403's WITH "4A" BLOCK ID --------------------
Now, he does not state that -all- "4A" blocks are solid main webs, but it is a
far better chance than a 4B block... Seems to me I saw a 403 with a 4A block
once, but can't recall where and did not note it in my database... so it's
lost.
- -------------------- Mind you, NOT the HEAD  ID !!! ---------------------

Another thing is the VERY complete block ID section, where he claims that
certain 1967 engines, even 330's, used the modern 39 degree cam bank angle...
Yet others with same casting number used the older 45 degree cam bank angle...
Holy cow... I knew that the 425-D block was made in two forms, Toro and
Ordinary, he has it pegged even further, to two different sizes of drill spots
on the block... Sheeesh. *Bows in deference to man who seems to know all*

There's even actual numerical data on flow rates of a few heads. Good, not very
extensive, but good. Seems that basically, for untouched heads, C's aren't THAT
much better than say E's- 250 cfm vs. 225... still, that's 10%, 10% more fuel
in there, 10% more power might make a 40 HP diff on a 400 HP engine...
  Not negligible either.
- --
Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg@frame.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 17:00:16 -0300
Subject: Re: Starfire and Monza 2+2 

>- The 2+2's were originally designed for the Wankel rotary engine.  To
>  my knowledge the Vega (H platform) was not.  The confusion may be
>  because the 2+2's were were initially referred to as the "Italian
>  Vega" or "Wankel Vega" in the press during their development and
>  before they were formally named.

At the time (1974), the car model maker AMT, now a subsidiary of Ertl,
I think, produced with much fanfare its annual-model Chevy Vega for
1974 with two engine build options: regular or Wankel. Presumably they
tooled up for that on the theory that the Wankel was just around the
corner, plus I assume GM figured it was good for publicity. I built 
mine with the Wankel.  :-)

>  It's also my understanding that the
>  Starfire and Monza could have come out earlier, but they waited for
>  the Wankel to be completed.  As it turns out, the Wankel never made it
>  to production.

Yup. I remember a "sneak preview" in either Popular Science or Popular
Mechanix magazines of what the Wankel-powered Monza would be like. The
artist's illustration included round headlights instead of the newfangled
rectangular sealed beams, too.

>  - The infamous problems with the Vega 140-L4, available on the 1975-77
>    Monza and 1976-77 Starfire, were corrected years before the 2+2's
>    were introduced.  Very few Starfires had this engine.

Not sure which problems you're referring to, but I remember a (relatively)
flattering comment in Car & Driver about how the hydraulic lifters in the
'75 Vega made for a good urban-beater type car, as opposed to the older
years of the same model.

>So in general, myth lags perception by several years.  I suspect that
>many of the other problems attributed to the 2+2's were more due to
>neglect and abuse than anything else.

Y'know, I've kind of thought this about a _lot_ of cars I've owned,
including (*gasp*) a Vega and (*horror!*) a Chevette. Believe it or
not, both were dead reliable for me over years after I bought each for
peanuts, and both I sold when they were 9 years old for well over what 
I paid for them (Vega: paid $50/sold $500; Chevette: paid $600/sold $1250).

>The 2+2's generally appealed to the youth market.

Yeah, I still have my '78 Monza and Chevette catalogs somewhere... 

But getting back to Olds topics: this principle of they're-not-so-bad-
if-you-take-care-of-them is the same kind of approach that holds true
for performance cars; your own pride-and-joy appreciates not only because
you're taking good care of it but also because there are complete morons
out there who are trashing theirs and depleting the supply.

Still, we do need _some_ morons to supply a source of parts... :-)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431
Datalogics, Inc.
441 W. Huron               Internet: acg@frame.com
Chicago, IL  60610-3498    FAX: (312) 266-4473

------------------------------

From: Dan Birnell <dbirnell@netusa1.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 18:14:05 -0300
Subject: Re: wanted 442

tmorris@BT1DC18E.bet.ibm.com wrote:
> 
> Hey everybody, I'm still looking to buy a nice driver 442, 4 sp, preferably
> 66-67, or 69-72 years, non-convertible.  If you have any leads, pls email me.
> thanks.
> 
> Todd Morris
Todd:
I am an Oldsmobile Salesman in Kokomo, IN.  I have on my lot a 1967 Olds 
442.  It is light blue with black buckets, but it has an automatic 
trans. :(  I am asking 8995 for it.

400 eng
AT AM/FM

Call me @ 1-800-792-0086 9:00am to 7:00pm Indiana Time if interested.

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 18:28:20 -0300
Subject: Brakes

I've got to do the rear brakes on my 69 Cutlass tonight.  I need to know if
the brake shoe with more lining on it goes to the front or rear.  The ones
with more lining are to the front now on the old ones, but I don't know if
that's correct. Also, the guy at the auto parts store asked me if it was
early or late style 69 brakes.  What's the difference, and how can I tell
what mine is?  Date of manufacture??  Can I tell the date of manufacture
from the VIN #??  Need answers quick!  

Thanks!
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@kfmw.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 12:39:50 -0300
Subject: Re: MT Shifter boot

The 70-72 boot is square and was used for both console and non-console 
applications.  In fact, an additional boot was placed over the top of this boot 
for console cars.  The earlier cars, used a more rounded boot (I think) for 
non-console cars.  They used one boot for console and a different one for 
non-consle.  I currently have a Hurst boot in my car, so I'm not sure of the 
difference.  Maybe Darren could tell us (or some other 68 owners) what his 
looks like.

>      >...  Also, I hope that your boot is in good shape, because you cannot
>      >get the non-console boot anywhere.  I am in need of one myself.
> 
>        If its the same as the 1970 442, you can still get the boot.
> 
>        My car does not have the console, and there is one rather large boot
>      that screws to the floor.  I've read that console cars used the same
>      boot but got a second boot on the console as well.

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 19:30:40 -0300
Subject: Re: Brakes

At 06:28 PM 6/3/96 -0300, you wrote:
.  What's the difference, and how can I tell
>what mine is?  

I think I have already answered this question myself.  Bore size would be
the difference.  Mine have a 7/8" bore, which must be more common, because
they are only about 20 bucks each.  The other size, 13/16", cost about $35
each.  Still need to know which shoe goes toward the front.

Thanks again!
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: Toronado66@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 20:05:24 -0300
Subject: Re: Dreamer 

In a message dated 96-06-02 12:02:15 EDT, you write:

>>  | OLDS 1966 TORONADO frame     |
>>  | off restoration over $22,000 |
>>  | Asking $13,500 813-654-1134  |

This guy must have had some bad dope along the way somewhere!

There are still enough nice original ones out there than to buy a frame off
that probably wasn't done right to begin with!!!!

Greg

------------------------------

From: Toronado66@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 20:05:26 -0300
Subject: Re: Dreamer 

In a message dated 96-06-02 15:22:50 EDT, you write:

>> Somebody might buy that car for $13 grand, I wouldn't be surprised if 
>> it did.
>
>I would.

Remember the famous words of PT Barnum!!

There is a sucker born every day!

And what the not-so famous Greg Kalkhoff says;

There is an ass for every seat!!!!

Greg

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 20:12:29 -0300
Subject: Re: License Plates

> 
> I had "442 W30" from Texas for _many_ years. Anybody in TX looking for it
> better act FAST.  Lost it last year when I finally retired from the service
> and located in FL.  Obviously not available here, nor the reverse. " 67 W30"
> and "W30 67" were gone and most of my other choices.  Since the car is
> modified, I ended up with W30 PLUS.  Actually met a lady last week at the
> "Old Town Cuise" who hadn't owned an Olds since the late 60's.  And she
> remembers what W-30 meant! 
> 

	As Charlie already pointed out, here in Montana, you get 7 spaces 
for your choice of letters.  When I finally get around to registering my 
'60 98, I hope to get either "ROKIT98" or "ROKET98".  Either would be 
cool.  One of my friends who has had more vehicles more than I have 
fingers has had a few doozies like "SYKO"  as in Psycho, not Sicko (as 
psome people thought).  He wanted "EATMEAT" but for some reason the DMV 
didn't go for it. (?).

			Scott
		1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 20:17:25 -0300
Subject: What the?!...was Re: '68 SSII Wheels

> 
> Speaking of these wheels, anyone have any good screw-on SSII center caps 
> for sale? I know they are still available from the catalog places but 
> they're pricey. Mine could use freshening and if anyone has some in good 
> shape (no pitting on the chrome) let me know.

	This reminded me of something that I keep forgeting to ask you guys--
I have seen a couple Cutlasses running around town with gold aluminum 
wheels that look just like five spoke 15x7" Z-28 wheels of mid eighties 
vintage.  Only thing is that they have rocket centers!  Look very stock, 
so I was wondering if somebody could say for sure if they really were, of 
if somebody found a clever way to fit a rocket center to a Z wheel.  It 
looked good either way.
	
	
				Scott
			1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

------------------------------

From: Scott R Clark <mickeyd@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 20:23:05 -0300
Subject: Re: lye

> OK, 3 times the lye, 1/2 the water, see what happens...
> --
> Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
> wittchri@pilot.msu.edu


	Uh, so...like, did it work?
And about it being exact...it's like I said before...the worst thing that 
can happen is you add too much NaOH, and turn it into a science project 
by forming crystals all over your car parts! |)
	
	Oh, and I want to thank whoever suggested Rustoleum Satin Black for 
a semi-gloss on under hood sheet metal.  It looks good, and a lot like 
the original stuff.  I just refinished my headlight buckets, and stripped 
the housing so it's ready to paint.  I'm also stripping all the 
under-hood metal from the front clip.  It's a lot of work, but it should 
pay off in the end.  

			Scott
		1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98 

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 20:45:45 -0300
Subject: Re: wanted 442

On Mon, 3 Jun 1996 tmorris@BT1DC18E.bet.ibm.com wrote:

> Hey everybody, I'm still looking to buy a nice driver 442, 4 sp, preferably                                            
> 66-67, or 69-72 years, non-convertible.  If you have any leads, pls email me.                                          
  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> thanks.                                                                                                                
>                                                                                                                        
> Todd Morris

Hey!!! What's with this blatant discrimination against the most unique 
Cutlass year made?!?

;-)

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
             === Proud owner of a '68 Cutlass ===

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 16:24:25 -0300
Subject: Re: Starfire and Monza 2+2

Andrew C. Green wrote:
> 
> >- The 2+2's were originally designed for the Wankel rotary engine.  To
> >
> 
> Andrew:

American Motors got caught up in that Wankel mess by building the Pacer 
with the promise of an engine and then no engine.  They ended up with a 
car with a tough way to fit an engine.  It finally got an inline 6 with 
the firewall pushed way back.  It also eventually got a V8 which 
couldn't be serviced because of space problems.

Bill Culp

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 16:15:32 -0300
Subject: Re: What the?!...was Re: '68 SSII Wheels

Scott R Clark wrote:
> 
> >
> > Speaking of these wheels, anyone have any good screw-on SSII center caps
> > for sale? I know they are still available from the catalog places but
> > they're pricey. Mine could use freshening and if anyone has some in good
> > shape (no pitting on the chrome) let me know.
> 
>         This reminded me of something that I keep forgeting to ask you guys--
> I have seen a couple Cutlasses running around town with gold aluminum
> wheels that look just like five spoke 15x7" Z-28 wheels of mid eighties
> vintage.  Only thing is that they have rocket centers!  Look very stock,
> so I was wondering if somebody could say for sure if they really were, of
> if somebody found a clever way to fit a rocket center to a Z wheel.  It
> looked good either way.
> 
> 
>                                 Scott
>                         1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98

Scott:

I have seen those stock on late 70's - early 80's Cutlasses.  They look 
nice too.  There are a couple of these in my town.

Bill culp

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 16:18:50 -0300
Subject: Re: wanted 442

> 
> Hey!!! What's with this blatant discrimination against the most unique
> Cutlass year made?!?
> 
> ;-)
> 
> Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
>              === Proud owner of a '68 Cutlass ===

Greg:

That took my eye too.  I just figured that made more for the rest of us.

Bill Culp

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 15:38:11 -0300
Subject: Re: Step Plates

SG Hartfelder wrote:
> 
> 
> I've been scouring my rod magazines and can't seen to find where I could
> get an antique 'Step Plate'.  
> 
> > Any idea's where I could find them?
> 
> *********************************************
> SG Hartfelder         Voice:403-498-8264
> 10009-108 St.           Fax:403-425-4627
> Edmonton, AB  T5J 3C5
> CANADA                shartfel@planet.eon.net
> 
> '1938 Olds  --  Street Rod

Look in Hemmings in the Ford section at Model A's.  They are reproduced 
for them constantly and some have no names on them.  Consider:

	Mac's Antique Auto Parts - Free catalog at 800-777-0948

	Bratton's Antique Auto Parts - Free catalog at 800-255-1929

	Gaslight Auto Parts - $2 catalog at 513-652-2145

	Joe Smith Antique Ford & Hot Rod Parts - $3 catalog at 	
800-235-4013

	Patrick's Antique Cars & Trucks - Free catalog at 520-836-1117

Bill Culp

------------------------------

From: Lloyd Culp <bculp@hiwaay.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 16:08:21 -0300
Subject: Re: Brakes

Dave Paulison wrote:
> 
> At 06:28 PM 6/3/96 -0300, you wrote:
> .  What's the difference, and how can I tell
> >what mine is?
> 
> I think I have already answered this question myself.  Bore size would be
> the difference.  Mine have a 7/8" bore, which must be more common, because
> they are only about 20 bucks each.  The other size, 13/16", cost about $35
> each.  Still need to know which shoe goes toward the front.
> 
> Thanks again!
> --
> Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
> dpauliso@metrolink.net

Dave:

Put the longer contact surface to the rear.  Measure shoe depth also as 
some are wider and drum size could be larger diametter.  Ask for the 
measurements of each type sold and compare to your drums and old shoes.

Bill Culp

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 21:57:58 -0300
Subject: Re: Dreamer 

In a message dated 96-06-02 16:11:06 EDT, you write:

>> Yeah, right.  Another price list believer.
>>   (Must be that serial #00000001)

Maybe this is one of those convertible, three on the tree cars with the Eldo
carb?

Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 21:58:00 -0300
Subject: Re: wanted 442 

In a message dated 96-06-03 19:54:17 EDT, you write:

>Hey!!! What's with this blatant discrimination against the most unique 
>Cutlass year made?!?

Some folks have told me, and I of course do not agree with them, that the
front end styling on the '68 is, um, unusual, like a baby chick with it's
beek (beak?) open..

Disclaimer: This comment is just a personal observation and is in no way
intented to offend owner's of the '68s.  Please fight the urge to comment
further. :)

Paul

------------------------------

From: PHartlieb@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 21:58:00 -0300
Subject: Re: more '68ness 

In a message dated 96-06-03 13:27:14 EDT, you write:

>11D	Time code (date built). I assume 11D= April 11th

I thought this meant the 4th week of November (that would be '67)???

Paul

------------------------------

From: Jeff & Patti Kobinsky <jkpkobin@rvlink.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 22:14:56 -0300 
Subject: 65 - F85 & 74 442

I bought the 65 when I was in high school and drove until my senior year
when it went to storage.

It's been about 17 years in garage, and about time for restoration.

I missed driving the 65, and bought the 74 when I sat at a local fast food
resturant about 12 years ago eating supper and saw it being traded in at the
car lot next door.

I walked over to see the 442, fell in love and drove it home - leaving my
Chev wagon at the fast food place overnight (to be retrieved later).

I drove that one for 2 years, and decieded I did'nt have enough money to
make it look right, so off to storage that one went too.

Through the years, I did the wife thing, and along with that a different
house (still have both too) and now with her blessing I want to bring back
out the cars.

Both are original with 330 and jetaway and 455 with the turbo 400.

I need sheetmetal (quarters) for the 74, and don't know where to start with
the rest.

I do have a crashed 74 cutlass for alot of parts that I need to make one car
out of (350/automatic) that is taking up alot of garage space.

Do I keep the current driveline(s), or do I update?

(I would still keep the original stuff in storage)

I don't plan on a 10 second car, but from what I remember it would not take
much to make them go a bit faster.

A "plan" would be a super strong combo that could drive all day and take a
squirt of No2 if necessary.

I don't have a endless supply of money for this, but want to do it right,
even if it means only completing one, and leaving the other sit for a couple
more years.

Any advice appreciated.
JEFF & PATTI KOBINSKY

------------------------------

From: glenn connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 17:14:06 -0300
Subject: Re: lye

>
>
>
>> OK, 3 times the lye, 1/2 the water, see what happens...
>> --
>> Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
>> wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
>
>
>	Uh, so...like, did it work?
>And about it being exact...it's like I said before...the worst thing that 
>can happen is you add too much NaOH, and turn it into a science project 
>by forming crystals all over your car parts! |)
>	
>	Oh, and I want to thank whoever suggested Rustoleum Satin Black for 
>a semi-gloss on under hood sheet metal.  It looks good, and a lot like 
>the original stuff.  I just refinished my headlight buckets, and stripped 
>the housing so it's ready to paint.  I'm also stripping all the 
>under-hood metal from the front clip.  It's a lot of work, but it should 
>pay off in the end.  
>
>			Scott
>		1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98 
>
>
>
>

Scott,
   
      I'm glad you liked the Rustoleum Satin Black.  I was afraid to mention
it but I had tried different paints before this and thought that it worked
and looked the best.  I'm not sure what car you have but on my '69 4-4-2 I
had a pretty crumby looking vacuum brake booster canister so I sealed it off
and bead blasted it then coated it with Rustoleum Satin Clear and it looks
great but you have to take care not to get any brake fluid on it because it
will take it off just like any other paint.  One last thing, the Satin Clear
does an excellant job on your hood hinges after they have been sand blasted
(not bead blast). Four or five coats right after blasting and they look just
like the factory finish and very durable.

Glenn Connors
 

------------------------------

From: glenn connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 17:16:25 -0300
Subject: Re: lye

>To: oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>From: gpc442@buffnet.net (glenn connors)
>Subject: Re: lye
>
>>
>>
>>
>>> OK, 3 times the lye, 1/2 the water, see what happens...
>>> --
>>> Chris  B. Witt         *the* Rocket Scientist
>>> wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
>>
>>
>>	Uh, so...like, did it work?
>>And about it being exact...it's like I said before...the worst thing that 
>>can happen is you add too much NaOH, and turn it into a science project 
>>by forming crystals all over your car parts! |)
>>	
>>	Oh, and I want to thank whoever suggested Rustoleum Satin Black for 
>>a semi-gloss on under hood sheet metal.  It looks good, and a lot like 
>>the original stuff.  I just refinished my headlight buckets, and stripped 
>>the housing so it's ready to paint.  I'm also stripping all the 
>>under-hood metal from the front clip.  It's a lot of work, but it should 
>>pay off in the end.  
>>
>>			Scott
>>		1960 Oldsmobile Rocket 98 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>Scott,
>   
>      I'm glad you liked the Rustoleum Satin Black.  I was afraid to
mention it but I had tried different paints before this and thought that it
worked and looked the best.  I'm not sure what car you have but on my '69
4-4-2 I had a pretty crumby looking vacuum brake booster canister so I
sealed it off and bead blasted it then coated it with Rustoleum Satin Clear
and it looks great but you have to take care not to get any brake fluid on
it because it will take it off just like any other paint.  One last thing,
the Satin Clear does an excellant job on your hood hinges after they have
been sand blasted (not bead blast). Four or five coats right after blasting
and they look just like the factory finish and very durable.
>
>Glenn Connors
> 
>

------------------------------

From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@metrolink.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 23:02:59 -0300
Subject: Re: License Plates

At 08:12 PM 6/3/96 -0300, you wrote:

>	As Charlie already pointed out, here in Montana, you get 7 spaces 
>for your choice of letters.  
>			Scott


Well, I went to the DMV down here in FL today.  There are nine different
plates (regular Florida plate, Manatee plate, Challenger plate, etc) which
you can get seven characters and a space or hyphen on, to make eight spaces
total.  You can use numbers or letters as characters for the seven spaces.
There are twenty three other types of plates (U.S. Olympic plate, Indian
River Lagoon plate, Orlando Magic plate, all college & university plates,
etc) which only allow five spaces TOTAL for characters (no additional space
or hyphen).  Each personalized plate has an annual use fee of $12.00 in
addition to regular registration fees. All plates except the regular Florida
plate also have "specialty trust fund fees" of $17.00, $22.00, or $27.00,
depending on the plate chosen.  The trust fund fee is paid yearly.  

I am thinking of getting a regular Florida plate with "ROKT PWR" (first
choice) or "RCKT PWR" (second choice), depending on availability.  Timing
should work out pretty well; my tag expires in July, and it takes about six
weeks to get a personalized tag!  Wish me luck!!
- --
Dave Paulison          Melbourne, Florida        69 Cutlass Supreme
dpauliso@metrolink.net

------------------------------

From: JPADA@hqgate.orbital.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 00:22:42 -0300
Subject: Re: License Plates 

          I was fortunate enough to request W THIRTY for my 70 W-30 as
          soon as the state of VA allowed seven letters.

          Joe Padavano
          jpada@hqgate.orbital.com

          66 442
          68 W-30
          69 H/O
          70 W-30

------------------------------

From: herman <hermanl@hawaii.edu>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 23:16:38 -0300
Subject: olds 350 and 403

hey guys,
	My name is Guy, and i have a few questions.  I was wondering if 
you guys could give me some of your opinions.  I  had a 83'cutlass 
Supreme with a 77' olds 350, th-250 (similiar to a th-350), and  ran it 
to a 3.42 posi.  The car clocked high 14's with street tires in hawaii.
I sold the car now and bought a 85' 442.  The 442 has a non posi rear 
end.  I want to change the 307 motor.  I know Oldsmobile made two 
different small blocks during the 70's, the heavier block (1976 and 
before) and the lighter block (1977 and after).
        I picked up a 72' olds 350, in the gold stock paint, and has the 
code 7 heads.  Also , I have another option of buying 79' old 403 from a 
trans am.  I planned to rebuild one of these motors without any major 
modification and put in the 442 during this summer.  My friend told me 
the older the block (the 350) is, the more power it has.    He  also told 
me that the 403 has thinner walls and is easier to blow the 403 motor 
than a 350.  I thought that the bigger the displacement, the more power, 
but he says that have the same amount of power.  Is all of this true?  He 
is my friend and all, but I just want second opinion since I am plan to 
change the motor once.  Do anybody know the specification in these 
motors.
	Another thing is, should  I swap an 8.5 rearend non-posi 3.73 
gear for a g-body with 200-4R(good condition) for a 7.5 rearend posi 3.23 
gear with a th-350 non computer.  I plan to leave it stock or put the 
th-350 with 3.23 posi while changing the motor.  Any advice?  I am just 
curious, do anybody have an 8.5 posi (A- body or G-body)for sale.
	If you have questions, advice or comments, my email address is: 
hermanl@hawaii.edu .  Thank You.

------------------------------

From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 06:26:53 -0300
Subject: Re: more '68ness

On Mon, 3 Jun 1996 PHartlieb@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 96-06-03 13:27:14 EDT, you write:
> >11D	Time code (date built). I assume 11D= April 11th
> 
> I thought this meant the 4th week of November (that would be '67)???
> 
> Paul

Ooops... I think you are correct. Knew that, forgot that, thanks for the 
reminder.

Greg Beaulieu        ab348@ccn.cs.dal.ca        Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

From: "Paul R. K. Kuromoto" <suntzu@ohana.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 06:26:18 -0300
Subject: Flow Figures

Would someone mind posting the flow figures and the specifics of the 
testing for Olds heads as found in the Mondello Tech manual?

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
 I used to think that the Information age would spawn a great
 revolution as more people got smarter due to access to more
 information.  To the contrary, now that any idiot can use the
 Net, the integrity of the information contained therein has
 been corrupted.                          --Suntzu@ohana.com
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

From: Rocketeer <bparker@nmsu.edu>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 09:44:57 -0300
Subject: Re: What the?!...was Re: '68 SSII Wheels

> 
> 	This reminded me of something that I keep forgeting to ask you guys--
> I have seen a couple Cutlasses running around town with gold aluminum 
> wheels that look just like five spoke 15x7" Z-28 wheels of mid eighties 
> vintage.  Only thing is that they have rocket centers!  Look very stock, 
> so I was wondering if somebody could say for sure if they really were, of 
> if somebody found a clever way to fit a rocket center to a Z wheel.  It 
> looked good either way.

Couldn't say for a fact, but the wheel you are describing sounds like the
one that came on the '79 H/O. Not real common, but I have seen complete
sets for sale at swap meets on a regular basis.

Boyd

------------------------------

From: Rocketeer <bparker@nmsu.edu>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 09:48:12 -0300
Subject: Re: wanted 442

> 
> > Hey everybody, I'm still looking to buy a nice driver 442, 4 sp, preferably                                            
> > 66-67, or 69-72 years, non-convertible.  If you have any leads, pls email me.                                          
>   ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> > thanks.                                                                                                                
> >                                                                                                                        
> > Todd Morris
> 
> Hey!!! What's with this blatant discrimination against the most unique 
> Cutlass year made?!?

Taste... 

------------------------------

From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 13:08:46 -0300
Subject: Re: wanted 442

Rocketeer wrote:
> 
> > Hey!!! What's with this blatant discrimination against the most 
> > unique Cutlass year made?!?
> 
> Taste...

AND... THEY'RE OFF!

The 66 Toro and Mike


- -- 
Michael R. Frederick, CEO
Edison3, Incorporated
Tampa, Florida
(813) 210-8649

------------------------------

From: Buddha <buddha@itw.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 11:52:24 -0300
Subject: Re: What the?!...was Re: '68 SSII Wheels 

At 09.44 06,04,96 -0300, you wrote:
>> 
>> 	This reminded me of something that I keep forgeting to ask you guys--
>> I have seen a couple Cutlasses running around town with gold aluminum 
>> wheels that look just like five spoke 15x7" Z-28 wheels of mid eighties 
>> vintage.  Only thing is that they have rocket centers!  Look very stock, 
>> so I was wondering if somebody could say for sure if they really were, of 
>> if somebody found a clever way to fit a rocket center to a Z wheel.  It 
>> looked good either way.

ok...this is what i have done...i found a set at Carlilse...there was a
vendor there who sold the blank centres and then had a rocket emblem to
fit...it looks pretty sharp...and according to the parts guy down at the
Olds shop, he had found a adhesive centre that was made during the 70's that
fit on certain centres
                                   zack

PS.  as soon as i get the wheels together i'll scan a picture if anyone
would like?
      ___
     /. .\
    _\_*_/_                     -<Buddha>-
   / /   \ \                   Buddha@itw.com
   \_\___/_/            HTTP://www2.itw.com/~buddha/
  /___\_/___\         "I only kill to know i'm alive"
 *************

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #194
********************************

