
oldsmobile-digest      Sunday, January 18 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1062



vinyl top molding
Tricarb dilemma (Was Re: Rochester 2-Jet I.D.)
Looking for  88 Toronado parts.
Re: Tricarb dilemma (Was Re: Rochester 2-Jet I.D.)
Re: Tricarb dilemma (Was Re: Rochester 2-Jet I.D.)
Re: Engine rebuild ?'s
Re: what can go wrong
Re: Engine rebuild ?'s
Toro Motor
Re: Non-Olds
carb I.D. #s
Re: Toro Motor
Re: carb I.D. #s
Re: carb I.D. #s
(Fwd) Re: Windshield Trim 1970 Cutlass Convertible
looking for parts!!!!!
Re: Toro Motor
Re: looking for parts!!!!!
out of PARK
Re: (Fwd) Re: Windshield Trim 1970 Cutlass Convertible
Re: Non-Olds
Wanted: Pictures of a 1966 88 or 98 convertible
Rebuilt Carbs - should I? which one?
Re: packard-bell
Re: what can go wrong
Re: packard-bell
Re: looking for parts!!!!!
Re: out of PARK
Re: out of PARK
Under Hood Color
To: ADMIN and listmembers, I have a solution!
Soylent Ocean Mist's strong resistance...
RE: Parts again
Re: packard-bell
Re: To: ADMIN and listmembers, I have a solution!
Rear Deck Spoiler
hello from dixie
help
SS Wheel ?'s
Re: looking for parts!!!!!
Re: Toro Motor
Fiber optics for 1977 Olds Cutlass
Re: edelbrock heads
Independent Wipers
Re: New Motor Problems
Re: Intake & Carb
Transmission Crossmember
Re: I want to thank this list
Re: packard-bell
Re: Transmission Crossmember
Re: New Motor Problems
Non-Olds
Soylent Ocean Vroooooooooom!
Re: Non-Olds
Re: Engine rebuild ?'s
Surprisingly Inexpensive
Re: packard-bell
Re: Non-Olds
Re: looking for parts!!!!!
Variable Vane Torque Converters
Re: I want to thank this list

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 04:41:28 -0700
From: "Eric" <ebob@yucca.net>
Subject: vinyl top molding

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_005B_01BD2302.2D2A5E20
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Does anybody know where I can get the vinyl top trim pieces that go from =
the back
of the 1/4 windows to the back of the rear window on a 72 Cutlass S ? I =
don't see them in any of the catalogs I have. Any help mucho =
appreciated!!!!!

- ------=_NextPart_000_005B_01BD2302.2D2A5E20
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Does anybody know where I can get =
the vinyl top=20
trim pieces that go from the back</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>of the 1/4 windows to the back of =
the rear=20
window on a 72 Cutlass S ? I don't see them in any of the catalogs I =
have. Any=20
help mucho appreciated!!!!!</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_005B_01BD2302.2D2A5E20--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 08:35:38 -0500
From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Subject: Tricarb dilemma (Was Re: Rochester 2-Jet I.D.)

Hey, thanks, Dr. Bob.  Now you've gotten as far as I did! *L*

Actually, I have two #7029683 and one center 7031575 residing on a '66
tricarb setup that I purchased in 1984 *not as cheaply as Chris Witt's, but
close*, and the numbers puzzled me as well.  And, yes, I've checked,
rechecked, and rerechecked the numbers, and those are correct.

The center carb appears to be a typical run-of-the-mill 2-Jet, but the end
carbs have no idle circuits and, doggone it, certainly look like they came
on there.  This setup *in fact, the entire car* has been in storage for the
last ten years, and I only routinely checked the numbers as I was cleaning
them.  Frankly, I couldn't care less about the originality or the value of
this "custom" setup, as I have no intention of ever selling it, but now I'm
intrigued as to the origin/birthdays of these carbs.

I also was leaning toward the service replacement reasoning, though I have
no way to check that.....any further thoughts?

Thanks, 

Mike Evans
Richland, MI

At 02:05 AM 1/17/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Regarding the ID on those carbs, I'm puzzled by those numbers. Not just the
>fact that they don't show up in the books *at all* (and the book lists all
>Rochester #'s from 1951-1990), but the fact that these numbers don't match
>the usual patterns. Here's what you'd expect from reading the two carb #'s:
>
>>7029683
>>7031575
>
>70= These first two digits simply designate a Rochester product
>
>The third digit is the series of the carb, followed by the last digit from
>the year of the date of the application; Thus, the 2 and 3 designate a carb
>from the '60's (0 and 1 were the Fifties, into the early Sixties; 4 and 5
>were the Seventies). The fourth digit (9) in the first carb # makes this to
>be a Rochester carb for a 1969 something. The fourth digit in the second
>number, however, is odd, since the "3" series carbs usually designated the
>early emissions-controlled carbs used in the '65-'67 cars, when things like
>A.I.R. and C.C.C. required specially-calibrated carbs, and a "1" wouldn't
>fit in with that. Then again, Rochester often deviated from the standard
>practice of the fourth digit being the last digit of the year.
>
>Now, the last three digits usually specify the application of the carb
>within a particular year, and usually, the second-to-last digit correlates
>to the manufacturer (but not always, and not consistently, but most all of
>the time). The chart that Year One reprints is pretty accurate:
>
>1,2=Chevy
>3=Cadillac
>4=Buick
>5=Olds
>6=Pontiac (although sometimes a 7)
>
>Now, a 7 or 8 in the second-to-last position usually indicates a non-GM
>application (like Checker, Chrysler, Ford, marine and the like), so I'd be
>inclined to think the carbs you list are something like late-60's Rochester
>carbs not produced for GM applications.
>
>One other possibility; service carbs usually employed the numbering schemes
>from the years they were introduced, not the years they were actually
>intended to be installed on as replacements. It's possible that the two
>carbs are late-60's service carbs for earlier applications.
>
>Sorry I can't be of more help; can you describe what the carbs look like,
>and double-check those numbers? Are there any other ID tags or numbers, or
>part numbers on any of the carb components? The books really don't even have
>anything close to a range of numbers like the ones you provided.
>_______________________________________________________
>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 06:40:00 -0500
From: Douglas Hormuth <doug@evansville.net>
Subject: Looking for  88 Toronado parts.

Dera olds,
   Where is a good source for 88
Olds Toronado parts. 
doug@netlane.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 09:01:34 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Re: Tricarb dilemma (Was Re: Rochester 2-Jet I.D.)

Hey Mike: Just curious about the car they came out of. Are you trying to
determine if the Tri-Carb is original to the car?  Are you keepin the carbs
in the car?  

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Tricarb dilemma (Was Re: Rochester 2-Jet I.D.)
> Date: Saturday, January 17, 1998 8:35 AM
> 
> Hey, thanks, Dr. Bob.  Now you've gotten as far as I did! *L*

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 09:20:49 -0500
From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Subject: Re: Tricarb dilemma (Was Re: Rochester 2-Jet I.D.)

No, the Tri-Carb isn't original to the car.  I just found it odd that these
carbs aren't even original to this intake, and I am trying to get a little
background on them, is all.  Mostly in case there may be some specification
oddities that I'd just as soon not be surprised with if I have to do any
work to them in the future.


At 09:01 AM 1/17/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Hey Mike: Just curious about the car they came out of. Are you trying to
>determine if the Tri-Carb is original to the car?  Are you keepin the carbs
>in the car?  
>
>Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com
>'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
>'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
>'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo
>
>----------
>> From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Tricarb dilemma (Was Re: Rochester 2-Jet I.D.)
>> Date: Saturday, January 17, 1998 8:35 AM
>> 
>> Hey, thanks, Dr. Bob.  Now you've gotten as far as I did! *L*
>
>


Michael A. Evans
evans1@net-link.net
Richland, MI

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 09:35:30 -0500
From: loris <loris@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Engine rebuild ?'s

BIG JERMES wrote:
> i ran the edelbrock specs through a program of mine, and it says im making
> around 290hp. 

Big Jerms:

What is this "program" you mentioned in the note above?  How can I get a
copy at a five-finger discount?

- -Loris

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 09:11:46 -0600
From: "babbott@pdnt.com" <babbott@pdnt.com>
Subject: Re: what can go wrong

Do you think this guy's smokin something??? Can you imagine not being able
to spell the name of your car?
Eric

- ----------
> From: TFX FLYER <TFXFLYER@aol.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: what can go wrong
> Date: Friday, January 16, 1998 11:02 PM
> 
> i almost crashed a 68 camero i had , i was crusing down a back road a
high
> rate of speed decide to stand on it  next thing i know i heard a loud
> explosion and fire comes clear up both sides of the car .thinking its on
fire
> i stand on the brakes enough to slow down to about 30 and get ready to
jump
> but downt see anymore fire so i stop and look under neath to find no fire
at
> all.i found out later it does that every time you put the throttle to the
> floor,was pretty scary at first.after that i used to shock my freindswith
it.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 10:12:28 +0000
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Engine rebuild ?'s

Douglas J Harkema wrote:
> 
> Hi It has been a while since I've written anything on here, but read every day
> Here is my question:  When I rebuild this motor 350 (1970) What are the things
> that I should definitely have the machine shop do?  I know the heads.

Oooohh, #6's, excellent! Yep, you should have the (AIR,EGR???) bumps in
the exhaust ports milled down. Have them install hardened exhaust seats.
Have them port the seats so that they are rounded, not flat and jagged.

> Is it possible, or "right" to reuse the pistons.

I did. Of course, my engine only had 46K mi and needed no boring.

> Also has anyone used edelbrocks "power package" ? Manifold,Carb,Cam.  If so do
> you like it?

The thing you should really consider is at what RPM range you'll be
operating at most of the time. If it's just a daily driver that you want
to be able to have some good UMPH!, look for something between say
1000-5000. If you going for a serious street racer that'll blow most
5.slow's away, then look for that 2000-6000 range. Look at it this way,
how long and how many times a day are you going to be running 6000?

Also, just get your Q-jet rebuilt. It's just as good as that Edelbrock.
All you have to do is play with it a little (rods, jets) and you'll like
it. People have always looked down on QuadraJets as inferior. I say they
can watch my tail lights as I pass them.

> I figure that It will cost around $1,300 for parts.  I will tear down and put
> back together.  Sound about right?

Mine cost $1700. Course, I had a little help too.

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 09:07:59 -0600
From: "Samuel E. Johnson, Jr" <cutlass403@ameritech.net>
Subject: Toro Motor

I NEED SOME INFO QUICK!

I know a guy that says he has a 1970 olds toro motor for $350. is this a
good motor? how much power does it have stock? and how can I recognize
that it's a toro motor from 1970?

Please help me! I need this by 3:00 chitown time. (Central standard
time).

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 09:39:07 -0600
From: "Daniel S and Michelle Carlson" <carlson@paulbunyan.net>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds

Erik,
  Fill me in.  What is wrong with a Packard Bell?  We purchased one a month
ago and love it.
                                        Michelle

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 10:44:49 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: carb I.D. #s

List,
	Any chance that the numbers given were taken from the wrong spot on the
carb ? Any chance they are some type of casting number and not the carb
number.
I just checked an old *ontiac carb I have. It seems to have numbers cast
everywhere
but only one stamp.


				Just my thoughts,
				The General

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 10:23:23 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Re: Toro Motor

It's a good motor & good deal.  Look for E heads, block #396021 F.  If it's
a Toro motor, the intake will be "sunk down" in the center for hood
clearance.  If the dist. # is 1111982, it may be a W-34 motor.  Good luck &
let me know!

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: Samuel E. Johnson, Jr <cutlass403@ameritech.net>
> To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Toro Motor
> Date: Saturday, January 17, 1998 10:07 AM
> 
> I NEED SOME INFO QUICK!
> 
> I know a guy that says he has a 1970 olds toro motor for $350. is this a
> good motor? how much power does it have stock? and how can I recognize
> that it's a toro motor from 1970?
> 
> Please help me! I need this by 3:00 chitown time. (Central standard
> time).
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 11:01:40 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Re: carb I.D. #s

BTW the carb #s should be on removable tags for the  Tri-Carbs.

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: Patton <patton@ComCAT.COM>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: carb I.D. #s
> Date: Saturday, January 17, 1998 10:44 AM
> 
> List,
> 	Any chance that the numbers given were taken from the wrong spot on the
> carb ? Any chance they are some type of casting number and not the carb
> number.
> I just checked an old *ontiac carb I have. It seems to have numbers cast
> everywhere
> but only one stamp.
> 
> 
> 				Just my thoughts,
> 				The General

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 11:18:50 -0500
From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Subject: Re: carb I.D. #s

Whoa, hold the phone! Being an admitted 2-Jet neophyte, I'm looking at cast
numbers in the little circle on the linkage side of the body.  I don't have
any stamped numbers...I know that's the Quadrajet way, though.  Is there
another number I should be looking for?

At 10:44 AM 1/17/98 -0500, you wrote:
>List,
>	Any chance that the numbers given were taken from the wrong spot on the
>carb ? Any chance they are some type of casting number and not the carb
>number.
>I just checked an old *ontiac carb I have. It seems to have numbers cast
>everywhere
>but only one stamp.
>
>
>				Just my thoughts,
>				The General
>
>


Michael A. Evans
evans1@net-link.net
Richland, MI

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 12:04:29 +0000
From: tcjmiami@ix.netcom.com
Subject: (Fwd) Re: Windshield Trim 1970 Cutlass Convertible

- ------- Forwarded Message Follows -------
From:          Self <Single-user mode>
To:            Convcutl69@aol.com
Subject:       Re: Windshield Trim 1970 Cutlass Convertible
Date:          Sat, 17 Jan 1998 12:03:10


I got hit with a piece of road debris. (Had to hit me not any of the 
the other beaters on the hightway around me).

My body man says it's a bitch to get these off. Maybe someone else 
will have a first hand experience with this. First you have to pull 
the three lower trim pieces then you have to remove the screws from 
the top of the windshield and (Now the action Verb) Carfully remove 
the strip.

$20.00 plus freight is fine withme
. 
Do you have the blue plastic lenses that go under the dash and cover 
the INstrument lights? 


Yes it is a convertible.It's in perfect shape.It's still on the car though and
I've never taken one off, any tips. I've got the post pcs. off, isn't there
clips or something that hold it on? Would you go from top or bottom with a
putty knife or something?
Wouldn't want to damage a perfectly good part. I would want $20 + shipping.
What's the matter with yours? Let me know. Did you read that reply saying it
wouldn't work it needs to be 68-72? Whats that? Anyways let me know.If you
want measure your from end to end and give me dimension to make sure.
Mike W.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 13:01:02 EST
From: W MACHINES <WMACHINES@aol.com>
Subject: looking for parts!!!!!

hello all my fellow Oldsmobilers.  I am looking for a couple of items to help
curve my appetite of parts. 

1.  I am looking for a virgin 425 steeel crank
2. I am looking for a aftermarket ram air hood for 76-77 Cutlass's.
Now I know the company that use to repro this item went belly up.  So I
thought
maybe someone may have one lying around waiting for me.

Any help would be appreciated and thanks for your time

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
1972 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 17:14:14 -0800
From: "Carl-Otto Rustad." <carl-or@online.no>
Subject: Re: Toro Motor

I think theese sites can help you out with your problem, try them.
http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofblk.htm#Blocks
http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/oftor.htm#Toronado

- -----Original Message-----
From: Samuel E. Johnson, Jr <cutlass403@ameritech.net>
To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: 17. januar 1998 07:09
Subject: Toro Motor


>I NEED SOME INFO QUICK!
>
>I know a guy that says he has a 1970 olds toro motor for $350. is this a
>good motor? how much power does it have stock? and how can I recognize
>that it's a toro motor from 1970?
>
>Please help me! I need this by 3:00 chitown time. (Central standard
>time).
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 13:13:43 -0500
From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Subject: Re: looking for parts!!!!!

Mark,

Who used to make these hoods? Are they similar to the W-25 hoods in style?
I've never seen one, but now I'm intrigued.


>2. I am looking for a aftermarket ram air hood for 76-77 Cutlass's.
>Now I know the company that use to repro this item went belly up.  So I
>thought
>maybe someone may have one lying around waiting for me.
>
>Any help would be appreciated and thanks for your time
>
>W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
>1972 442 W-30
>
>


Michael A. Evans
evans1@net-link.net
Richland, MI

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 14:08:06 EST
From: Convcutl69 <Convcutl69@aol.com>
Subject: out of PARK

To shift my car out of PARK is very difficult. A guy that did some work on my
car disconnected the linkage and said there was a part in the trans. which you
could change at the same time you change fluid, gasket, filter. Does anyone
know this part? Is it a simpleton job that I could handle? He said he thought
he had the part,is this a part that can be had from a trans.shop or parts
store? Thanks for the info.
Mike W
69 S conv. Baby Hurst

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 14:08:05 EST
From: Convcutl69 <Convcutl69@aol.com>
Subject: Re: (Fwd) Re: Windshield Trim 1970 Cutlass Convertible

I've got a buddy at work who does body work on the sly I'll check with him
Monday and get back at cha.
Mike W.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 14:45:47 -0500
From: loris <loris@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds

Daniel S and Michelle Carlson wrote:
> 
> Erik,
>   Fill me in.  What is wrong with a Packard Bell?  We purchased one a month
> ago and love it.
>                                         Michelle


A Packard-Bell is like a 1980's Chrylser (MOPAR), that is, Mostly Old
Parts And Rust.  Junk, junk, junk.

- -Loris

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 12:51:19 -0800
From: "Greg Yonge" <gsyonge@pe.net>
Subject: Wanted: Pictures of a 1966 88 or 98 convertible

Does anybody know where I can find pictures (on the Internet) of a 1966 88
or 98 convertible?

Thanks!

Greg Yonge (list newbie)
OCA #029415
1992 Achieva SC


P.S.  If e-mailing pictures to me, please send them to me directly at
gsyonge@pe.net , don't post them on the Olds list (Yikes!)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 15:59:21 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Rebuilt Carbs - should I? which one?

I'm still working my way through this carb ordeal, as I want to get it settled
before the car comes out of the shop with new paint and chrome (don't want it
to get sooty).

I called the local autozone and got a price of $147.94 for a rebuilt holley
for an F/85 w/400 (they don't list 442 by name) or a Q-jet, same car, for
$154.94.  + $10 core charge if I kept my old carb.  Now, I could also get the
Q-Jet in the forced air version for the same price.

So, my questions are...

Anyone have experience with remanufactured carbs?
Can anyone compare the holley and q-jet since the price is about equal?
What is the difference between the forced/non-forced air carbs?

And, since I'm planning on adding forced air, what would happen if I used
forced air on a non-forced air carb, OR, if I don't get to it for a while,
what would happen if I DIDN'T use forced air on a forced air carb?

And, will I notice any mileage improvement with forced air?

Whew!! I know that's a lot, but any help would be much appreciated

aaron

p.s. thanks to everyone who responded to my car lights kill switch question,
i'll check all those things out

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 16:02:15 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: packard-bell

In a message dated 98-01-17 14:39:17 EST, you write:

<< A Packard-Bell is like a 1980's Chrylser (MOPAR), that is, Mostly Old
 Parts And Rust.  Junk, junk, junk. >>

are they still doing this, i thought someone had purchased their company or
something and things were better - rumor?

aaron

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 16:24:19 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: what can go wrong

babbott@pdnt.com wrote:
> 
> Do you think this guy's smokin something??? Can you imagine not being able
> to spell the name of your car?

Huh??  I know my Oldsmobel Cutless too well to spell it Incorrectly.

> > i almost crashed a 68 camero i had , i was crusing down a back road a

- -- 
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobel Cutless Supreme
- - Here we go Steelers!!!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 15:26:36 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: packard-bell

Its still a rumor

> 
> << A Packard-Bell is like a 1980's Chrylser (MOPAR), that is, Mostly Old
>  Parts And Rust.  Junk, junk, junk. >>
> 
> are they still doing this, i thought someone had purchased their company or
> something and things were better - rumor?
> 
> aaron
> 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 15:27:47 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: looking for parts!!!!!

> 2. I am looking for a aftermarket ram air hood for 76-77 Cutlass's.

#2, me too!! Mines a 77 Cutlass Supreme.




> Now I know the company that use to repro this item went belly up.  So I
> thought
> maybe someone may have one lying around waiting for me.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated and thanks for your time
> 
> W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
> 1972 442 W-30
> 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 16:42:32 EST
From: W30442CS <W30442CS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: out of PARK

do you have a floor shift car? if so ,have you had the trans. out lately?
steven. w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 17:13:07 EST
From: Convcutl69 <Convcutl69@aol.com>
Subject: Re: out of PARK

No, it's column shift. But when the linkage was taken off  it shifted smooth.
Leading to the trans. I havn't had the trans. out but I've only had car since
June, before that , I have no idea, but by looking around under there it
doesn't look to have been played with at all.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 16:13:47 -0600
From: "James Moore" <panman638@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Under Hood Color

Can anyone let me know what the color to paint the underside of the hood?
- -----Original Message-----
From: W30442CS <W30442CS@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, January 17, 1998 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: out of PARK


>do you have a floor shift car? if so ,have you had the trans. out lately?
>steven. w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 17:21:43 EST
From: KarlAune <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: To: ADMIN and listmembers, I have a solution!

Me again.

On a separate note, there is, it seems, an increasing number of erroneous
#ns#bscr*b@ messages being sent to the list instead of the M&j0rd0m0 which
attends to those things.

I have a solution to this.

If it is possible, why not have the system automatically put out a short Email
to the list once every one to two days with #ns#bscr*b@ instructions?

This would be much less intrusive to listmembers who actually read the
instructions in the "welcome to the list" message. It would also conserve
bandwidth considerably compared to the number of "Please, please, please h@lp.
I have S#bscr*b@d to the Oldsmobile and cannot get off" messages that we see
almost every day. (similarity to "I've fallen and can't get up" is wholly
intentional)

Just an idea from d*g@st-land.

K&rl &#n@ &nd S0yl@nt 0c@&n M*st
1965 Dyn&m*c 88 C@l@br*ty S@d&n

M@mb@rs, 0C&, *V0C


I really do get carried away.....

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 17:21:42 EST
From: KarlAune <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Soylent Ocean Mist's strong resistance...

Greeting Oldsmobilers!

I pulled the coil and resistor yesterday and cleaned them up. I just tested
them for resistance (and it took me about an hour to find my WWII-era
multitester). These values are measured at approximately 60 degrees fahrenheit
and specifications are for 75 degrees.

Coil primary resistance; approximately 1-2 ohms
    (specification is 1.77 to 2.05 ohms - close enough really)

Coil secondary resistance; approximately 8000 ohms
    (specification is 6500 to 9500 ohms)
	[Split the uprights! Dead center! A 34 year old coil!]

Ballast resistor; approximately 20,000 ohms (200 on x100 scale)
    (specification is 1.35 ohms)

Aha!

V=IR 

So when I let off the ignition circuit, current flows fom the battery (-)
terminal, trough the block to the resistor where any significant current is
prevented from reaching the (+) coil terminal because V/R=I !  Divide 12 volts
by 20,000 ohms and we are definitely a long way from 220CCA!

Or something like that. A brief description may be crucial here.

You see, my ballast resistor is a barrel type (_not_ a resistor wire) that is
bound alongside the coil by the coil bracket atop the intake manifold. Here is
the unusual part. A single wire goes from the barrel resistor to the positive
coil terminal. I have been assuming that this means that the metal resistor
housing itself is the other terminal of the resistor and is connected to
ground (negative battery terminal) through the metal coil bracket.

So when I measured resistance, I held the probes on the single resistor lead
and the housing (the resistor top is a plastic [perhaps] insulating material
with a hole for the lead) and read 20,000. I am going to assume that it may
still be moist from cleaning yesterday (but 20,000 ohms, really!) and dry it
out and measure at approximately 75 degrees fahrenheit later. In the meantime
this seems like an opportune moment to hook up the Accell Super coil that has
been bolted to my firewall for about eight months.

Now tell me who is the laziest person on the list!

More later.

BTW I welcome criticism of my methods or conclusion if they are inaccurate.

Karl Aune and Soylent Ocean Mist
1965 Dynamic 88 Celebrity Sedan

Members: OCA, IVOC

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 14:33:02 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: RE: Parts again

Hi all,

Well I just got my over the axle tail pipes installed.  I 
bought them from YO and the right side was perfect the left side not.
My guy had to cut it and add another extension.  Can't win I guess.

I have most of the chrome stuff on the car, still have a few things to
do.

Let you know of its progress.

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 17:54:22 -0500 (EST)
From: The Sugarmans <sugarman@berkshire.net>
Subject: Re: packard-bell

On Sat, 17 Jan 1998, AARONLIFE wrote:

> In a message dated 98-01-17 14:39:17 EST, you write:
> 
> << A Packard-Bell is like a 1980's Chrylser (MOPAR), that is, Mostly Old
>  Parts And Rust.  Junk, junk, junk. >>
> 
> are they still doing this, i thought someone had purchased their company or
> something and things were better - rumor?
> 
> aaron
> 

Packard Bell was bought by NEC, but they still operate as a separate
company - for now, anyway.   As for better?  Their customer support was
very cooperative recently with an out-of-warranty repair.  They paid for
parts and labor - intermittent problem on the motherboard - cracked
printed circuit.

Thanks to my son and his lovely girlfriend, P-B took care of the whole
thing.

Best,
Don


sugarman@berkshire.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 17:59:22 -0500 (EST)
From: The Sugarmans <sugarman@berkshire.net>
Subject: Re: To: ADMIN and listmembers, I have a solution!

On Sat, 17 Jan 1998, KarlAune wrote:

FWIW, I keep a message ready with unsub info.  If I see a post like you
describe, I reply and include the info.

I'd rather do that than see the insub instructions posted every day.

Many of the members of another list I'm on include the unsub instructionsn
in the signature file, so it shows up at the bottom of all their messages.
I don't recall every seeing an unsub message going out to the list.  (Of
course that is the VW type2 list and maybe nobody ever leaves.)  

my 1/50 of a dollar.

Don 

> Me again.
> 
> On a separate note, there is, it seems, an increasing number of erroneous
> #ns#bscr*b@ messages being sent to the list instead of the M&j0rd0m0 which
> attends to those things.
> 
> I have a solution to this.
> 
> If it is possible, why not have the system automatically put out a short Email
> to the list once every one to two days with #ns#bscr*b@ instructions?
> 
> This would be much less intrusive to listmembers who actually read the
> instructions in the "welcome to the list" message. It would also conserve
> bandwidth considerably compared to the number of "Please, please, please h@lp.
> I have S#bscr*b@d to the Oldsmobile and cannot get off" messages that we see
> almost every day. (similarity to "I've fallen and can't get up" is wholly
> intentional)
> 
> Just an idea from d*g@st-land.
> 
> K&rl &#n@ &nd S0yl@nt 0c@&n M*st
> 1965 Dyn&m*c 88 C@l@br*ty S@d&n
> 
> M@mb@rs, 0C&, *V0C
> 
> 
> I really do get carried away.....
> 

sugarman@berkshire.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 15:54:13 -0600
From: "Thomas R. Lanham" <jamnt2@netnitco.net>
Subject: Rear Deck Spoiler

I have a 1972 Cutlass S with a Spoiler that was added by the previous 
owner.  I would like suggestions on what to use to protect the holes that 
were drilled for the mounting screws from rusting.  Also is there a gasket 
or anything that should be placed between the spoiler and the deck lid? 
 Thanks for your help with this one.

Tom

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 18:53:38 EST
From: OldsGuyGA <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: hello from dixie

  peg, hello  from the dixie chapter.. shannon and tom are
 going to Hawaii for a wk or so on business..

   maybe you can come to a meeting.. i'm the pres your invited

    jeff  olds guy...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 18:58:26 EST
From: OldsGuyGA <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: help

 hoagie..would you make me a copy...

   call me jeff  770- 723-9345...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 18:47:29 -0500
From: Jim Hurd <jhurd@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: SS Wheel ?'s

        I was de-gunking(tm) my SS chrome wheels (N66) and noticed some
numbers on the backside of the rim.  I can figure out some of the #'s but
can anyone tell me what the others mean?

        The left rear:

   50991  14x6 JJ  MADE IN USA  DOT-T  MW-1  9 10 86  3(circled) B LINE 1

        The right rear:

   50991  14x6 JJ  MADE IN USA  DOT-T  MW-1  9 10 86  2(circled) C LINE 1

        I haven't started cleaning the other two but I imagine they are
1(circled) and 4(circled), A and D lINE 1.  TIA




Jim H.
'87 Salon

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 19:12:38 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: looking for parts!!!!!

> 2. I am looking for a aftermarket ram air hood for 76-77 Cutlass's.
> W MACHINES (Mark Prince)

Actually, _I_ wouldn't mind knowing if someone out there knows of a place that
does RAM Air hoods for these cars or if someone has one, either!  (please!)
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
468 BigBlock '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 18:49:34 -0600
From: "Samuel E. Johnson, Jr" <cutlass403@ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: Toro Motor

When I got there the motor was SOLD : (   I was tooooo late.

W-MACHINES wrote:

> It's a good motor & good deal.  Look for E heads, block #396021 F.  If it's
> a Toro motor, the intake will be "sunk down" in the center for hood
> clearance.  If the dist. # is 1111982, it may be a W-34 motor.  Good luck &
> let me know!
>
> Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com
> '65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
> '66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
> '66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo
>
> ----------
> > From: Samuel E. Johnson, Jr <cutlass403@ameritech.net>
> > To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > Subject: Toro Motor
> > Date: Saturday, January 17, 1998 10:07 AM
> >
> > I NEED SOME INFO QUICK!
> >
> > I know a guy that says he has a 1970 olds toro motor for $350. is this a
> > good motor? how much power does it have stock? and how can I recognize
> > that it's a toro motor from 1970?
> >
> > Please help me! I need this by 3:00 chitown time. (Central standard
> > time).
> >

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 20:24:13 -0500
From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Subject: Fiber optics for 1977 Olds Cutlass

Hello All!!!

Anyone know where i can get the fiber optic strand that illuminates the
shift indicator glass for my Olds? My car is a 1977 Olds Cutlass with center
console. 


TIA

Aaron

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 20:38:44 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: edelbrock heads

George,

 I converted my 69 442 from Power disk brakes to manual and drive the
car regularly. I just removed the booster and changed the acuator rod to 
one from a manual brake car.  This did increase peddle pressure required
somewhat to stop compared to the power brakes, but not enough to really
make that much difference. The amount of room now available w/o that 
big ol' honking booster hanging in the way was one of the better things I
modified on my car.

Besides the cam I'm running only pulls 7.5 in. vac. at idle (1000 RPM) so the 
power booster would have needed help with an additional vacuum canister
which would have only further cluttered the engine compartment.

Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 18:54:09 -0700
From: "Orcutt" <f_m_o@email.msn.com>
Subject: Independent Wipers

Quick question about another electrical component with an independent point
of view.  Once activated, the windshield wipers on my 69 Delta will not turn
off immediately after turning off the switch.  In fact, they may run for as
much as 15 minutes after shutdown before they decide to take a nap.  There
is no delay mechanism on this switch, just simple on and off with just high
and low speeds.  Any adjustments I can make at the wiper motor which might
bring these guys back into line?  Thanks.

Fred Orcutt
69 D88
72 VC
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Dunes/3901/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 21:42:43 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: New Motor Problems

>Fixed!
>
>Wasn't the intake sealing.
>Wasn't the ignition module.
>Wasn't the cam timing.
>
>It was a bad timing light...

Great news! So, how does it run now??? :)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 21:42:46 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Intake & Carb

>an option.  Should I keep the Edelbrock Performer 600cfm #1405 with the
>5/8 inch spacer, or should I trade it for a '78 QuadraJet which would
>have come stock on the car.

Well, the Q-jet would flow more, but the 600cfm carb should be enough for
your street 350. The #3711 can mount either the spreadbore Q-jet or the
square-bore Performer carb without a spacer-adapter (the adapter included
with the intake for the square-bore carb is thin sheet steel; the holes for
the carb mouting bolts are already cast into the intake manifold).

>	The only other influence is that the spacer does not exactly match
>edges with the stock intake I have which may be inhibit the airflow. 
>Will this spacer do the same thing on the Performer Olds 350
>(EGR/non-EGR) #3711 and interrupt the airflow which I desparately need
>to be at peak flow?  Would the absence of the spacer when using the
>QuadraJet make a cleaner flowing tunnel?

You would use a spacer to increase the plenum volume or to alter the mixture
velocity and direction; it is a fine-tuning aid, but shouldn't be made part
of your baseline. Run with no spacer to begin with (whichever carb you
choose), and only add it if there is a sound reason to do so.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 22:19:58 -0500
From: talcarol@erie.net (Carol Kugler)
Subject: Transmission Crossmember

Does any body know if I could replace my single humped transmission
crossmember on my '77 442 with a dual humped crossmember from a 70-72 Monte
Carlo?  I want to put dual exhausts on my car.

Thanks,
Chris Kugler
talcarol@erie.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 19:31:09 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: I want to thank this list

Hi all,

I was out looking at a faux 442 today.  The owner claimed he was selling
a 1968 442, however, upon examination the vin said it was a Cutlass S.
I thank the list for providing me the wealth of knowledge I have
obtained over the past year which enabled me to spot this pup.  The
odd thing is that this car did look pretty from the outside, but upon
scrutinization, it was modified-city.  The engine had a Ch*vy 396
or 427 or whatever in it and had a pretty striped out engine 
compartment.  No inner wheel fenders, no radiator shroud.  You could
literally see right through to the street.  What was even more 
interesting is that the interior was pretty nice, however, the pass.
bucket seat was gone along with the console.  The guy says he had
the car since he was 16 (now 38).  It is strange that he would think
it was a 442 since it had markings of a Cutlass S.  For what he was
asking (442 pricing in mind) if it were a 442, I would have bought it.
However it would have to have had all of the original equipment or
at least Oldsmobile equipment.  I offered him what I thought was fair
(for a Cutlass S) and hopefully he'll come through.

We'll see.


Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 22:43:36 -0500
From: loris <loris@tir.com>
Subject: Re: packard-bell

> They paid for
> parts and labor - intermittent problem on the motherboard - cracked
> printed circuit.

Like I said, Mostly Old Parts And Rust.  If the computer had very good
components you wouldn't have had to call them for service.  A cracked
printed circuit?  Sounds serious to me.  No Packard-Bell will ever grace
my desk.  Big name doesn't mean good quality.

- -Loris

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 22:05:37 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Transmission Crossmember

Chris, Mid 70's Buicks Crossmember bars go without a hitch, thats how 
I got my TH-400 to shoehorn in there and to have the dual exhaust at 
the same time. If I remember correctly, it came out of a 75 Buick 
Regal, just grabbed it out of the junkyard, payed all of $10.00 for 
it.

1977 Cutlass Supreme 350 4bbl
1978 Olds Delta 88 Royale 350 4bbl

> Does any body know if I could replace my single humped transmission
> crossmember on my '77 442 with a dual humped crossmember from a 70-72 Monte
> Carlo?  I want to put dual exhausts on my car.
> 
> Thanks,
> Chris Kugler
> talcarol@erie.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 22:06:23 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: New Motor Problems

Don't you just hate it when things like that happen?

> >Fixed!
> >
> >Wasn't the intake sealing.
> >Wasn't the ignition module.
> >Wasn't the cam timing.
> >
> >It was a bad timing light...
> 
> Great news! So, how does it run now??? :)
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
> 
> 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 23:47:11 -0500
From: "Ulysses Melen" <Master-Stile@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Non-Olds

I just picked up the following screaming machine for about $2000 from a
local company that supply to Ford & the Co. I work for:

- - 300mhz Pentium II AL440LX Motherboard (Intel)
- - 64mg Ram
- - 24x CD
- - 17" Monitor (.25 Dot Pitch)
- - Diamond Stealth Video Card (4mg)
- - Yamaha Sounds
- - 6.4 G Hard Drive
- - Zip Drive
- - 56K Motorola voice modem
- - MS Office 97 & all sorts of goodie, goodie programs
- - etc.

BIG difference from the stone age 486/66 with Pentium upgrade I was running
before (anyone need a paper weight).

Ulysses Melen
- - 71 Cutlass S
- - 85 Indy 500 Pace Calais 
- - 92 Achivea

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 23:56:01 EST
From: KarlAune <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Soylent Ocean Vroooooooooom!

Well, it seems to hace been the coil resistor after all.

This is probably the reason why automobile manufacturers swiched from barrel-
type to resistor wires. She did not fire up straight away, but I presume that
the off-and-on cranking with no results must have fouled the plugs since I
cleaned them some ten days ago. The motor sounds better than I remember.
Absence makes the heart grow fonder?

The Accell Super Coil is hooked up and running. I had been planning (for some
seven months) to use 8 or 10 gauge stranded copper wire (maniacal giggling in
background) for wiring up the "Super Coil". One problem was that I was
previously not positive about the wiring that was required. I was still
somewhat baffled about a resistor that had one lead (see my last post). Having
already reasoned out the reason why Solent was not starting [yes, despite all
the great (emphasize great) suggestions of engine components to check, it was
I that first reasoned that the coil resistor might be to blame (see my post
before last, or maybe before that, if anyone is curious, I still have that
Email stored under "previously sent mail), but, damn, am I good or what],
wiring up a substitute coil and resistor (both previously bolted to forewall)
took less than two hours.

Of course the above time was enhanced by the fact that my local True Value
hardware store (heheheheheheh, I wrote "hard") is going out of buisiness. I
blew nearly $50 there today. The best deal was a micrometer for $11 (not a
particularly outstanding model, but for three significant digits what a
steal!). I also grabbed the remnants of the 12 guage solid copper wire on two
spools (15-30 ft) each for a dollar, also I got a set of miscellaneous
electrical connectors for approximately $6. With these already in inventory,
generating the necessary wiring needed only measuring, selection of fitting,
crimping fitting, and soldering the fitting to the wire. Bear in mind,
soldering would not be necessary with stranded wire. Solid wire remains round
after crimping and can become free to rotate or slide within the fitting. The
second reason for my using solder is to reduce resistance (identical to saying
"enhance conduction") for the current flowing from the coper wire to the (I do
not know what white metal it is) connector. (((BTW For those of you who have
not soldered before and think about doing so - there are several varieties of
solder based on its tin and lead content. The best solder for electrical
connections is at least 60 percent tin with 40 percent lead and a rosin core.
70 percent tin is better as lead does not conduct, however 60 percent tin
melts easier [lower wattage iron required])))

Anyway, I created a wire to extend the wire harness (starter wire) to the
Super Coil resistor (Karl assumes that those who do not understand the
starting/normal running circuit will ask questions later) on the firewall.
Also I created a wire to stretch from the (+) terminal of Super Coil to the
distributor, replacing the previous distributor wire. When it started I tooled
around close to home. Tomorrow will be the crucial test as to whether future
starting will be reliable.

Thank you all for your good suggestions. I am sure I will put them to use in
the future.

Karl Aune and Soylent Ocean Mist
1965 Dynamic 88 Celebrity Sedan

Members; OCA, IVOC

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 23:59:27 -0500
From: "Ulysses Melen" <Master-Stile@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds

Just to add my 2 scents:

I sold Packard Bells, Compaq's, etc. for about 2 years & also owned a PB of
my own.  Im here to tell you to runaway from them like they have the flesh
eating plague!!!!  They are a pain in the ass to work with, no customer
service and very un-upgradeable.  If you want to spend alota money on
something that will probably become some computer store fix shop regular go
ahead.  You want a decent system to save your self some money, Have it
built!!


Ulysses R. Melen
71 Cutlass S
85 Indy 500 Pace Calais
92 Achiva S

If your in the MI area I know a few people I can recommend you to (they
also ship)

> 
>       Heck,  I hope you can clue me in here.  What is wrong with the
Packard
> Bell.  Should I invest in something else?  I bought this thing 4 yrs. ago
> and would hate to know that I'm missing something of any importance.  It
> even has spell check, although I usually don't use it.  It normally takes
> anywhere from 45 to 60 seconds with it's 14.4 modem to download about 80
> e-mail messages from this list. 
> 
>       Glenn
>       '69 4-4-2
>       Xerox Printing Systems Engineer

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 00:56:34 EST
From: BIG JERMES <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Engine rebuild ?'s

In a message dated 98-01-17 09:29:42 EST, you write:

<< What is this "program" you mentioned in the note above?  How can I get a
 copy at a five-finger discount? >>

well, its called "Shift Master".  
E-mail: shftmstr@ultranet.com or shiftmastr@aol.com
as for the cost?  free.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 23:22:30 -0500
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Surprisingly Inexpensive

I just got in from changing the front calipers in my '84 R*V. For years I
have taken the bushings out of these things and treated them with silicone
spray and/or bought new bushing kits for 6 or 7 dollars  under the
assumption that new or rebuilt calipers were very expensive.

I have had a problem with one sticking so I asked at the local Kragen store
and to my surprise a complete rebuilit caliper is only $14.99 with a
lifetime warranty!  The bushings slide effortlessly more than I can say for
most of my rebuilds.

So it is probably a good idea to check the price of the parts before you go
though the hassle of rebuilding them.


Lloyd Ferguson
Glendale, California
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

1969 Cutlass Convertible
1984 Buick Riviera

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 02:27:47 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: packard-bell

loris wrote:
>If the computer had very good
> components you wouldn't have had to call them for service.  A cracked
> printed circuit?  Sounds serious to me.  No Packard-Bell will ever grace my desk.  Big name doesn't mean good quality.


I would have to disagree with the no service bit with good components. 
Even the best quality control and manufacturing processes make mistakes
srom time to time.  That's why they warranty them for a period of time. 
I do agree the better the components, the better the product.  Seems to
me I remember a story about Packard-Bell's cpmputer origin.  Seems the
people that were starting P-B knew that product name recognition was a
big deal.  (Good move on their part.)  So they looked around and bought
a name that already had good name recognition (P-B for those keping
score) from the people that weren't using it anymore for something like
$75,000 or so.  Now a company that hadn't exisited before was building
products using a name that goes way back in American retailing history.
So instead of the public buying XYZ Corp computers instead of ABC Co,
both of which sold PCs neither of which were IBM, they would purchase
the computer made by this old reliable (our parents grew up with it)
name brand company (P-B) that had gotten into the computer manufacturing
business.  Problem was the original company Packard-Bell had nothing to
do with the building, quality control or ANYTHING of the PCs being sold
under their name other than allowing the use of the name.  Anyway, this
new company's quality control wasn't the best and although the products
were less expensive they didn't seem to hold up as well.  The last thing
I heard was that the company was being sold to someone else.  I will say
it appears that their quality has been a little better than it was when
they first hit the marketplace, but then it had to go up.  Although I
don't have as much direct computer experience as a lot of people, the
ones I have had the most success with are IBM (admittedly biased outlook
as my father worked for them for almost 30 years) and Compaq.  I have
owned both and used both and have had good success.  I have had several
friends that had Packard-Bell and only one of them was reasonably happy
with it.  

BTW, the above was told to me by a supposed computer guru that I met one
day while I was just browsing at the P-Bs in an OfficeMax store here in
Lexington, Ky.  This guy was supposed to have helped somebody develop
something for one of the leaders in the computer field. (Sorry I don't
remember the details as I wasn't listening too closely to that part.  As
I was in the market for a new machine I did listen to the other,
though.)

I would really be interested to know if anyone can verify what this guy
told me.  He seemed to know what he was talking about.  In addition, I
had several other friends in the computer field tell me to stay away
from P-B.  So I did.  Sorry about the length folks.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 02:34:17 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds

Ulysses Melen wrote:
> 
> I just picked up the following screaming machine for about $2000 from 

Sounds like a deal to me.  I'm using my old (1 1/2 years) 166mHz. 
Wonder what the fastest machine, etc will be when Intel, IBM, Apple, et
al get done?  If they only made a machine you could use telepathically,
then we could quit using these @#$%^ keyboards and I wouldn't make so
many m*staks tiping.  :)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 04:15:15 -0600
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: looking for parts!!!!!

- -----Original Message-----
From: W MACHINES <WMACHINES@aol.com>
>
>1.  I am looking for a virgin 425 steeel crank

Got one but you can't have it.

>2. I am looking for a aftermarket ram air hood for 76-77 Cutlass's.

Try U.S. Body Source out of Fl. (I think) they usually have ads in the back
of HR/CC/PHR. I had one of their catalogs about 5 years ago and I want to
say it had O.A.I hoods for just about every year Cutlass. Never seen any of
their products so can't attest to the quality.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 05:30:46 EST
From: KarlAune <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Variable Vane Torque Converters

Firstly, I want to say that my previous inquiries were structured towards
learning how to find out whether those whose vehicles should have come from
the factory with the variable vane torque converter might have been relieved
of same by unscrupulous mechanics. I say this fully mindful of those who have
shared thier experiences with disappointing machine shops.

'Nuff said there.

What I was hoping for was some method of ID'ing such a TC as a "switch-pitch"
converter by some stamping or other on the converter itself. For example. one
of my ersatz parts cars may have an intact transmission/converter, but how can
I be certain that the converter is original?

In truth, it was only yesterday that I realized that what I had been looking
at for nearly two years under the hood was in fact a linkage to the converter
(you would be suprised how innocuous it is). I now intend to clean up the
throttle linkage/interface to see if there is a difference in performance.
After all, I may have had a poor connection for two years.

Tomorrow (Sunday) I hope to begin to install my old web site at this address.
Eventually I shall photograph the throttle linkage to the VVTC and post that
on the rage page. It should eventually be located at;

members.aol.com/KarlAune.index.html

or some such. I will provide the URL as soon as I know what it is.

My thanks to Dr Bob Barry and others who helped me to keep thinking about it.

Karl Aune and Soylent Ocean Mist
1965 Dynamic 88 Celebrity Sedan

Members OCA, IVOC

Now all I have to do is put off that manifold swap/Holley 600cfm project......

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 06:58:18 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: I want to thank this list

In a message dated 98-01-17 22:35:00 EST, you write:

<< It is strange that he would think
 it was a 442 since it had markings of a Cutlass S. >>

Emblems!! or just the VIN?

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1062
*********************************

