To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1064


oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, January 20 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1064



Sprig Dustoff
Re: Looking for ' 72 Cutlass part
Re: Mondello
Re: Tricarb dilemma (Was Re: Rochester 2-Jet I.D.)
BB combustion chambers
Re: Mondello
Re: emblems/door panels
'83 Ciera: Engine falling out (literally!)
Re: Zolatone trunk paint
Re: holes in air duct - 76 Delta Royale
Re: Mondello..442 Tec??
Re: emblems/door panels
Olds in the movies: "L.A. Confidential"
Re: SUCCESS!
Re: Looking for ' 72 Cutlass part
Re: Plugging my EGR valve?
Re: emblems/door panels
Re: '83 Ciera: Engine falling out (literally!)
Re: emblems/door panels
Exhaust crossover
Re: Intake & Carb
Re: emblems/door panels
Re: emblems/door panels
Re: Mondello..442 Tec??
Got a picture of a 1966 98 convertible
Re: Hood question
Re: BB combustion chambers
Re: emblems/door panels
Re: emblems/door panels
Re: Mondello
stuff
Re: emblems/door panels
FYI:69 Cutlass bumper-to-lower radiator "filler"
Re: emblems/door panels
Re: Pure Stock Racing
Brake Swap
Re: Rear Deck Spoiler
Re: emblems/door panels
Rear Axle Arm Swap
Re: Variable Vane Torque Converters
Re: BB combustion chambers
Re: emblems/door panels
Re: emblems/door panels/forgery
455 Oiling information needed
Recently rebuilt engine problems
Re: FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro
Project 455/4WD
Axle Ratio
Speaking of Strobe Lights
Wanted: 77 442: Anything and everything
Re: FYI:69 Cutlass bumper-to-lower radiator "filler"
1975 Delta 88 Royale
Fiber optics for 1977 Olds Cutlass
Re: Exhaust crossover
Re: Plugging my EGR valve?
Re: Fiber optics for 1977 Olds Cutlass
Re: Hood question
adjustable valvetrains
Re: Plugging my EGR valve?
Re: FYI:69 Cutlass bumper-to-lower radiator "filler"

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 09:25:44 EST
From: ANTIQ OLDS <ANTIQOLDS@aol.com>
Subject: Sprig Dustoff

FOR ALL THE OLDS FANS IN NEW ENGLAND THE DATE HAS BEEN SET FOR SPRING DUST OFF

Eastern Mass GMO Chapter of the Olds Club
Spring Dustoff   Sunday May 31st at Berijek Olds Highland Ave Needham, Mass

More to come later

Also Saturday June 13th we will hold our 1st Annual B.O.P. swap meet. This is
for those of you who have a lot of stuff you've collected over the years to
sell off so you will have room  to buy more stuff and the money to do it.
  This will be held on a nice lot in East Providence R.I.  Again more to
follow as the date gets closer.
   If anyone has questions feel free to e-mail me privately or call me.
Thanks
Everett   OCAª 1961   1961 Starfire
1-401-435-7139

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 09:25:01 EST
From: ANTIQ OLDS <ANTIQOLDS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for ' 72 Cutlass part

Hi Brian
  This is called an air manifold, I think I have one in good shape, I will
check tomorrow and e-mail you privately


Everett   OCA ª 1961   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 09:40:35 +0000
From: "Rick" <Richardc@equitrac.com>
Subject: Re: Mondello

> Has anyone ever ordered the tec book that Joe Mondello sells on Olds
> motors? Is it as good as the 442 Tec web site? I was thinking about
> buying it for a cost of about $35.
>
> Please advise.
>
The book is great.It gives you alot of building tips and answers
alot of questions is the process.>
1964 Olds 442 F-85
1987 Monte Carlo SS
Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 09:54:31 -0500
From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Subject: Re: Tricarb dilemma (Was Re: Rochester 2-Jet I.D.)

Well, actually, I think Kurt probably hit the nail on the head here...my
carbs have no I.D. tags attached as they originally had.  They appear
identical to L69 pictures that I've seen, and I'm inclined to think they
are originals, and the tags got lost in a rebuild somewhere between 1966
and 1984, when I got them.  That's the story I'm going to run with,
anyway...thanks for the help, though!

>
>The 7031575 is mysterious because there is simply nothing like a "7031xxx"
>carb in the books; it wouldn't be a 1971 service replacement carb, as that
>would bear a "7041xxx" number, and the only "703xxxx" carbs are the '66 and
>'67 emissions carbs, which all read "7036xxx" or "7037xxx". Are you sure you
>can't make a scratch so it reads "703_7_575"? It still wouldn't match
>anything in the book, but at least it would seem to be a carb from within
>our universe... ;)
>
>No, these are real mystery carbs you've got there; they don't even fit in
>with the oddball variations that you find on some Rochester carbs. Maybe you
>can claim they're "experimental" carbs??? :)
>_______________________________________________________
>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
>


Michael A. Evans
evans1@net-link.net
Richland, MI

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 09:57:16 -0500
From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Subject: BB combustion chambers

Hey,

Does anyone have any tips/insight/experiences with polishing/cleaning up BB
combustion chambers?


Michael A. Evans
evans1@net-link.net
Richland, MI

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 10:21:31 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Mondello

It is a fountain of ecxellent information and I think a must for any
Oldsmobiler's library
I refer to mine quite often

Robert Schinkel

- ----------
> From: Samuel E. Johnson, Jr <cutlass403@ameritech.net>
> To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Mondello
> Date: Monday, January 19, 1998 1:12 AM
>
> Has anyone ever ordered the tec book that Joe Mondello sells on Olds
> motors? Is it as good as the 442 Tec web site? I was thinking about
> buying it for a cost of about $35.
>
> Please advise.
>
> Thanks
>
> Sam Johnson
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 11:06:52 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: emblems/door panels

In a message dated 98-01-18 11:27:17 EST, you write:

<< The only emblem was on the glove box lid and the vin called it a
 Cutlass S.  It seems someone went to great trouble to completely remove
 any outside emblem prior to him buying the car (based on what he told
 me).  The also removed all the outside moldings too.
  >>

WOW!  I have a question about the 442 interior.  The previous to the previous
ownner of my car repainted the car white (originally blue) and may have
installed the off-white interior (i'm not sure of the story), and on the door
panels there is an S.  What 'should be' on the door panels, the only other 69
442 I've seen in person had an S on the door panels?

Just curious,

Aaron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 10:07:09 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: '83 Ciera: Engine falling out (literally!)

So yesterday afternoon I'm outside in 20-degree weather
trying to repair the door seals per the tips I gathered
from you all here last week, and my elderly Vietnamese
neighbor totters outside to say hello. I notice now that
his '83 Ciera is covered in snow, obviously hasn't gone
anywhere for a while, and although his English is pretty
rough, he'd like me to take a look at it, apparently at
some sort of problem involving the right front wheel.

So I bend down to examine the wheel, and notice that roughly
the lower third of the engine is hanging down, looking back
at me. I'm looking at most of the lower part of the engine
and cradle, hanging two or three inches off the pavement. As
near as I can tell, the front right mount where the support
cradle attaches to the subframe has simply ripped away. The
cradle and mount is intact; the subframe metal is torn out
and down. Mr. Vietnam managed to tell me that when this
happened, it also ripped a hose off the engine and sprayed
coolant all over.

So I think we're talking junkyard here, but would like some
opinions. The car's straight, has only minor rust (by Chicago
standards) and has never been in an accident. It's a 2-door
'83 Ciera, front buckets/console, power sunroof. Has anyone
seen this happen before? I haven't. Repairable? IMHO, _I_ don't
think so, from what I see. It's borderline driveable, at least
on and off a trailer. If someone wants to make them an offer, I
think they'd consider it.  :-}
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 11:15:47 -0500
From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Subject: Re: Zolatone trunk paint

At 11:26 AM 1/18/98 EST, you wrote:
>Seems that whenever I paint a trunk , I end up using 7-8 cans of the spray
>that everybody sells. At ~$8 per, I'm thinking there's got to be a better
way.
>
>So I bought a quart of the stuff for spray gun use. Now I need to know how to
>set up the spray gun for using this stuff. Is a special gun needed? Or
just an
>adjustment to the ones I have?
>
>My paint supplier says to go to Sears and buy a $29 gun that comes with their
>small home air compressor kits, but the store here didn't have such.
>
>Anybody 'been there done that' and can tell me what to do?
>
>Peter
>CoupeKing@aol.com

Peter,
I work at a company that builds trade show exhibits, and Zolatone is one of
the finishes that we use. When I asked the painter about special equipment,
he said he uses his standard Binks gun but some of the finishes require a
special tip. When I asked for more details he got a little surly and
directed me to the $8 spray cans. I told him that got expensive quick, and
he recommended spraying a base coat to match the main Zolatone color. That
way you are not trying to do a color change (more paint) with the expensive
stuff.

Hope that helps
Ray
'70 Cutlass Conv.
'70 442 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 11:16:10 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: holes in air duct - 76 Delta Royale

>It needs a new air duct. Local auto parts store guy offered to order it
>but then said he could not find it anywhere. Is this something that is
>model and year specific ?

Do you mean air duct for the engine's air-cleaner snorkel, or an air duct
for the interior ventilation system? In either case, sometimes a universal
duct will work, but sometimes the ends and connectors are specific to the
application, so you'd need either an NOS (good luck!) or a junkyard duct in
better shape. If it is a round duct with special ends, you might be able to
replace the broken part with a universal-type hose (they're available in
specific diameters, such as 2", 2 1/2", 3", etc.); there are even
rectangular replacement ducts available, but here the selection is more
limited.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 11:33:34 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Mondello..442 Tec??

><< Has anyone ever ordered the tec book that Joe Mondello sells on Olds
> motors? Is it as good as the 442 Tec web site? I was thinking about
> buying it for a cost of about $35.

I have; it's a great resource for all the miscellaneous information on
building up an Olds engine. There's very little in there that can't be
found elsewhere (i.e Olds faq, shop manuals, W-30 tuning guide, Mondello or
Year One catalog, etc.), but it's nice to have it all in one spot. $35 is a
bit steep (especially since it's not much more substantial in size or
weight than a Mondello catalog), but I measure the usefulness of my books
by how greasy the pages are, and boy, I tell you, that Mondello tech guide
is pretty black around the edges... ;)

>Whats this 442 Tec web site?

I'm sure he's referring to the information found at http://www.442.com in
either the Technical Information section, or on the FAQ page. Like I said,
much of the same information can be found in both places; it's just nice to
have a book in the garage when you're trying to figure out the procedure
for degreeing your cam or installing your rod bearings.

Now, having said that, I found the specs he gives for preloading pushrods
to be misleading (ok, they were wrong), and it becomes clear that the first
priority for Mondello's Second Edition of the tech guide should be hiring
someone with some expertise as a technical writer: sometimes you just don't
know what the heck he's trying to say.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 11:44:49 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Yasczak <VJTD@grove.iup.edu>
Subject: Re: emblems/door panels

The door panels should have a chrome and black rocket emblem on them.  Our 69
442 has the original door panels.

Robb Yasczakvjtd@grove.iup.edu

1969 442
                        1969 Cutlass S convertible
1976 442
                        1987 Cutlass Salon

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 10:42:01 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: Olds in the movies: "L.A. Confidential"

Another sighting to report: Finally got around to seeing
"L.A. Confidential" over the weekend and noticed a vintage
late-40s or early-50s 88 making a brief appearance there.
The two occupants, um, do not have much time to appreciate
the fine styling and upholstery, and the windshield suffers
some severe bullet damage, but otherwise the car makes it
through the ordeal.

The rest of the movie, set in 1953, is heavy on neat swoopy
postwar cars, especially that 4-door fastback style. (Um, a
"sedanette", is it?) Lots of cool stuff to look at, anyhow.
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 11:13:02 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: SUCCESS!

>I finally found a winner! A 1972 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible! 144k,
 [snip]

Congratulations! Sounds like a nice candidate.

>The butterflys are starting to settle and buyers remorse is starting to
>subside. besides, he was (only?) asking $1350 with two new rear quarters
>and trunk lid or $1150 as is. I opted for the latter due to extremely
>low discretionary funds. Did I make a mistake?

Oh, yes, you'll be regretting this for years; I'd call him RIGHT now and
offer him the $200 for those parts (just for comparison, $1350 would be a
good price for a single NOS rear quarter _alone_... sheetmetal isn't going
to get any less expensive!).
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 11:24:14 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Looking for ' 72 Cutlass part

>>         Under the dash, connects the vent air hose and the vents on the
fire wall.
>> Actually the hose is pretty shot, so if anyone has the whole set up please
>> let me know.
 [snip]
>
>Unfortunately I have no idea what you are talking about.  Also
>unfortunatley (for you) I have all the under-dash parts out of a '72
>Supreme coupe, but they are earmarked for one-day installation in my
>convertible.

I've got the complete setup out of a '72 VC, but it's *not* going back into
a car (the car's now a coffee-table), so maybe I can help you.

I'm not sure what you mean by "vents on the firewall"; there is a large
intake hose that leads from the blower motor outlet in the firewall to the
heater distribution box; is this what is ripped on yours? This is really
far up there in the firewall; I've got this available, if you should need a
new one.

Or are you talking about the hoses from that distribution box to the actual
vents in the dash? In that case, Paul gave you about as complete a
description as you could ever get. The rectangular hoses are specific to
this model; the round hoses could be replaced with some generic vent hose
from Pep-boys. In fact, the rectangular hoses could probably be repaired
with some generic rectangular vent hose, if you could find the right size,
as the ends are simply stapled to the hoses themselves.

So, is your hose round or rectangular? Solid plastic, or fabric? I've got
most of them, but can't tell specifically what you're interested in.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 11:38:23 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Plugging my EGR valve?

>Ok, here's an interesting question.  I have an open element air filter on
>my 350.  The EGR valve appears to be in good shape, although its not hooked
>up to anything.  Should I plug the end of the valve?  Would that damage
>anything?  Would it increase performance at all (because I won't have that
>vacuum leak at higher speeds)?

It's not the opening on the EGR valve itself that you should be concerned
about (that simply leads to a vacuum diaphram inside the valve itself; it
won't cause a vacuum leak); it's the port on the carb that the line to the
EGR comes off of that you should plug up properly with a vacuum cap, if
you're going to disconnect it.

Nevertheless, with an open-element air cleaner and the EGR valve
disconnected, you're going to be running extra lean at all part-throttle
settings. You can either replace your current carb with a pre-EGR carb, or
jet your current carb like a pre-EGR carb, and then perhaps go a bit richer
to compensate for the increased air flow from the open-element air cleaner.
As it is, you might experience detonation, burnt/melted pistons, melted
sparkplugs, etc. from constantly running too lean a fuel mixture. What year
350 is this, and what other modifications have you made?
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 08:56:40 -0800
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: emblems/door panels

Hi Aaron,

> WOW!  I have a question about the 442 interior.  The previous to the
> previous owner of my car repainted the car white (originally blue)
> and may have installed the off-white interior (i'm not sure of the
> story), and on the door panels there is an S.  What 'should be' on
> the door panels, the only other 69 442 I've seen in person had an S
> on the door panels?

Well for one there wouldn't be any reference to Cutlass S or anything
on the door panels.  Only on the glove box lid is there a reference
to 442 (speaking of my 68 which is probably like the 69).  What codes
are listing on your fisher tags (engine cowl driver's side)?  Maybe
we can figure out what the car really had originally.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 12:22:11 -0500
From: Olds mobile <dmtaylor@tiac.net>
Subject: Re: '83 Ciera: Engine falling out (literally!)

> So I bend down to examine the wheel, and notice that roughly
> the lower third of the engine is hanging down,
>  Has anyone
> seen this happen before? I haven't. Repairable? IMHO, _I_ don't
> think so, from what I see.

Yes it is repairable. I have fixed a couple of these. Never on an Olds
though. Ch*vy's both times. Go to the local yard and get a subframe.
Leave the lower arms on it. Jack up the car and then fasten the engine
from a hoist. drop the lower ball joints, remove the steering rack from
the sub frame, disconnect the motormounts and tranny mounts, remove the
other three subframe bolts and your half way there. It takes me about 5
- - 5 1/2 hours of tinkering to swap one. If someone was intent and
eguiped with air tools you could cut some more time off.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 10:23:40 -0800
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: emblems/door panels

Robert Yasczak wrote:
>
> The door panels should have a chrome and black rocket emblem on them.
> Our 69 442 has the original door panels.

Does anyone know what a 68 442 should have on the door panel.  My
car, with original panels, has nothing to speak of.  Any help much
appreciated.


Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 13:27:02 -0500
From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Subject: Exhaust crossover

OK, since it's Oldsmobile Cylinder Head time at the Evans house
currently....does anyone have any objective data related to filling exhaust
crossovers in the head?  I already have the intake manifold blocked on each
side so the marginal cooling benefit at this point would be negligible.  I
realize there's got to be some exhaust flow increase by filling and
porting, but of course I'd rather hear your war stories first!

Thanks,



Michael A. Evans
evans1@net-link.net
Richland, MI

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 13:42:35 -0500
From: Gerald Hughes <ghughes@hughesconsulting.com>
Subject: Re: Intake & Carb

Aaron Kollsmith wrote:
Aaron,
I would like to consider our trade.  I need to talk to you. Give me a
call at (215) 750-8078.

Gerald Hughes










>
> >From oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca Fri Jan 16 09:13:59 1998
> >Received: by chebucto.ns.ca id <91290-21903>; Fri, 16 Jan 1998 13:13:28
> -0400
> >Received: from NO-IDENT-SERVICE@post1.fast.net (port 40737
> [198.69.204.13]) by chebucto.ns.ca with ESMTP id <90969-21902>; Fri, 16
> Jan 1998 13:11:41 -0400
> >Received: from ghughes.fast.net (x2-01-006.phl.FAST.NET
> [205.147.239.6])
> >       by post1.fast.net (8.8.5/8.8.5) with SMTP id MAA15637
> >       for <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; Fri, 16 Jan 1998 12:06:48 -0500 
(EST)
> >Message-ID: <34BF9467.3C66@hughesconsulting.com>
> >Date:  Fri, 16 Jan 1998 12:09:59 -0500
> >From:  Gerald Hughes <ghughes@hughesconsulting.com>
> >Organization: Hughes Consulting International
> >X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01Gold (Win95; I)
> >MIME-Version: 1.0
> >To:    Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> >Subject: Intake & Carb
> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> >Sender: oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
> >Precedence: bulk
> >Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> >
> >Hey everyone, it's great to be back on the list.  I missed it so! :)
> >
> >I am rebulding my Olds 350 (1979 VIN R) and I am having problems with
> >the setup that I want.  I am hoping one of you guys may know if this
> >will work, even if the dealer says don't do it.
> >
> >       I have an Edelbrock Performer 600cfm mounted on my original
> >intake....with a little modification it worked (even if it wasn't
> >supposed to).
> >
> >       I NEED a new intake and I wanted to go with the Edelbrock Performer
> >Dual Plane (non-EGR).  The dealer says that it won't work becuase of
> the
> >linkages, but I'm betting that there's a way to modify ANYTHING in
> order
> >to get it to work.
> >
> >       If there is no way to use this setup....does anyone know of someone
> >with a stock "79" Quadrajet (rebuilt or not) that would either sell, or
> >trade me for my Edelbrock Performer 600.
> >
> >       You guys are the best....and happy belated holidays.
> >
> >                                                       Gerald Hughes
> >
> I have a stock '78 QuadraJet that I will trade for your Edelbrock, if
> you're interested.  The carb has recently been rebuilt and has new
> pull-off's.
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 13:29:56 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Re: emblems/door panels

>Does anyone know what a 68 442 should have on the door panel.  My
>car, with original panels, has nothing to speak of.  Any help much
>appreciated.

Chris,

My 68 442 Conv has no model markings on the door panels, only on the
glovebox door.

Perforated diamond pattern on top of panels and flat from the armrests
down, no carpet.

Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 11:56:44 -0800
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: emblems/door panels

Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com wrote:
>
> My 68 442 Conv has no model markings on the door panels, only on the
> glovebox door.
>
> Perforated diamond pattern on top of panels and flat from the armrests
> down, no carpet.

Same as mine.

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 08:02:40 -0600
From: "Samuel E. Johnson, Jr" <cutlass403@ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: Mondello..442 Tec??

Bernie if you go to 442.com you will see the Olds tec site there.

RCKTPWR wrote:

> In a message dated 1/19/98 1:22:28 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> cutlass403@ameritech.net writes:
>
> << Has anyone ever ordered the tec book that Joe Mondello sells on Olds
>  motors? Is it as good as the 442 Tec web site? I was thinking about
>  buying it for a cost of about $35.
>   >>
> Whats this 442 Tec web site?
> Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 09:27:57 -0800
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Got a picture of a 1966 98 convertible

Greg,
I have a bunch of pictures from lansing, but they're not scanned or anything.
Any idea how I could get them to you?
cf


At 12:51 PM 1/17/98 -0800, Greg Yonge wrote:
>Does anybody know where I can find pictures (on the Internet) of a 1966 88
>or 98 convertible?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Greg Yonge (list newbie)
>OCA ª029415
>1992 Achieva SC
>
>
>P.S.  If e-mailing pictures to me, please send them to me directly at
>gsyonge@pe.net , don't post them on the Olds list (Yikes!)
>
>
Christian Fair

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 09:44:13 -0800
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Hood question

Hi all,

Two questions:

1) Does any one make repoduction 68 hoods?
2) Does a 68 Cutlass hood differ from a 68 Cutlass S/442 hood?

TIA,

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 13:48:18 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: BB combustion chambers

Mike,
What da ya need to know.
I have done several sets of Olds heads for fellow members
of the Detroit Street Rockets and do porting as a sideline.
If you don't have the right tools it can be a real pain in the hindend
as you can damage the seats which can then cost $$ to repair.
I'm down south of Detroit about 20 min. from Metro airport.
I charge $ 75.00 pr. for polishing chambers.
If your in the area or need more info e-mail me or stop by.

Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442   (12.03 /112 mph thru full exhaust /Drag Radials)
E-Mail  RPTW32@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 13:48:19 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: emblems/door panels

All 442 for 69 had a rocket emblem on door panel. If yours has the
"S" emblem then the panels were not original for a 442 but were from a Cutlass
S
I'm not positive but I believe that this is the case from 68-72. Another
litter
tid bit for identifying a real 442 if womeone claims one to be original.

Rgds,
R.Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 11:58:21 -0700
From: Tim Rudolph <trudolph@frii.com>
Subject: Re: emblems/door panels

At 11:06 AM 1/19/98 EST, you wrote:
>In a message dated 98-01-18 11:27:17 EST, you write:
>
><< The only emblem was on the glove box lid and the vin called it a
> Cutlass S.  It seems someone went to great trouble to completely remove
> any outside emblem prior to him buying the car (based on what he told
> me).  The also removed all the outside moldings too.
>  >>
>
>WOW!  I have a question about the 442 interior.  The previous to the previous
>ownner of my car repainted the car white (originally blue) and may have
>installed the off-white interior (i'm not sure of the story), and on the door
>panels there is an S.  What 'should be' on the door panels, the only other 69
>442 I've seen in person had an S on the door panels?
>
>Just curious,
>
>Aaron
>

'69 442s are supposed to have a rocket emblem on the door panel.  And let
me quote the FAQ:

"Rocket emblems in place of the "S" or "CS" on the door panels right above
the arm rests. Most forgers miss that detail, so it is a good quick and
dirty check to make in case you can't open the hood or read the VIN tag. I
think 95% of forgers would overlook the rocket emblem."

Tim Rudolph
trudolph@frii.com
'69 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 16:20:43 -0600 (CST)
From: Bryceman <bryceman@442.com>
Subject: Re: Mondello

>> Has anyone ever ordered the tec book that Joe Mondello sells on
Olds

>> motors? Is it as good as the 442 Tec web site? I was thinking about

>> buying it for a cost of about $35.


There is another book too called 'The Oldsmobile Performance Manual'. I
have the book and it's kind of a cross between Mondello's book and the
'Supertuning W-Machines' booklet. It's great and less expensive than
Mondello's book. There is an ad running in the classifieds on
www.442.com under parts for sale. The ad reads...

<bold><fontfamily><param>Helvetica</param><bigger>Attention Oldsmobile
Performance Nuts, You have been asking for it for years. It's here and
ready for shipment. The New Oldsmobile Performance manual from your
friends at Prescription Performance with 40 new sections stuffed with
all the information you want to know in plain language we can all
understain. Sections; Engine 330 to 455+,Distributors, Carburetors,
Block blueprinting, Transmission auto & manual, Chassis street & race,
Production numbers, Formulas, Tuners Tips, How to cam, Fuel systems,
Fasteners, Transmission cooler installation guide, Drag Strip tuning,
Race logs, Block & Head drawings, Factory ID part numbers; SB,BB Heads,
Camshafts, Lifters, Balancers, Water Pumps, Engine Paint Colors,
Carburetors, Distributors, Blocks, Crankshafts, Intakes, Valves,
Exhaust manifolds, Connecting rods, and More, More, More. $16.95 plus
$4.00 S&H</bigger></fontfamily></bold>
<fontfamily><param>Geneva</param><bigger> 126 Bearss Circle, Longwood
FL 32750</bigger></fontfamily>
<fontfamily><param>Helvetica</param><bigger>Rosey442@hotmail.com</bigger></fontf
amily>


I have both books and often compare info between the two. If I didnt
have either, I would buy both. But then, I like to get anything that
has Olds tech info in it.

Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Oldsmobiles!

'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender

'65 442 Post Coupe

'65 Vista Cruiser

'72 H/O Convertible Pace Car Replica

Email: bryceman@442.com  URL: www.442.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 15:11:57 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: stuff

> Thanx for the advice, Dave - the only problem is that the car may only see
active > service until the end of this winter - if you looked at it right now I
think you > too might judge it as being "unworthy" of such royal treatment.
=B) > > Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech - ---------- I see. - -- > i
found out later it does that every time you put the throttle to the > floor,was
pretty scary at first.after that i used to shock my freindswith it. - 
----------
HA!! Dave's Rule (thanks Andy!) - That which is dangerous but you can 
understand
and control, can be used to scare your friends and other passerbys. - -- > If
the taller covers > would hit the vacuum booster, I saw an ad in the back of 
the
new Car Craft > (pg88) for a company called Master Power Brakes.  They produce
aftermarket > conversions and perhaps they can offer some help for the brake
part of the > problem. - ---------- Chris Fair and a couple of others discussed
swapping newer master cylinders into their older cars, a while back. You might
want to check into that as well if you prefer to make your own system and save 
a
few bucks. - -- David Brown              Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com      OR     http://www.en.com/users/thall
    http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
  http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/zip/oldsfaq4.zip

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 18:24:46 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: emblems/door panels

In a message dated 98-01-19 14:44:38 EST, you write:

<< Perforated diamond pattern on top of panels and flat from the armrests
 down, no carpet. >>

this is what i have too, 69's didn't have carpet either, did they?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 18:19:49 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: FYI:69 Cutlass bumper-to-lower radiator "filler"

Hey all,

Just thought I'd pass this '69 tip along.  I've not seen this mentioned
anywhere else.  If you have a 69 Cutlass and are looking for that huge
rubber flap that is used as a filler between the front bumper and lower
radiator support, and are unable to find one from other sources, do what
I did.  I ordered a new part for the 71 442 a few weeks ago from Year
One.  Very nice.  Too bad they only listed them for the 70-72's because
my 69 H/O wants one too.  So just for fun, I matched them up.  Guess
what?  If you trim a little bit (couple of inches or so) from the left
and right sides of the new rubber, it WILL fit the 69s.  So I got
another one just for that purpose.  Ensure you make the cut even.  I
used one of those big old construction paper cutters like we used in
grade school, the ones with the huge cutting handle.  I talked to Year
One, and they said they would check with their tech staff about possibly
adding a note to the listing stating that it could fit 69's with minor
trimming.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 18:24:06 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: emblems/door panels

In a message dated 98-01-19 12:59:01 EST, you write:

<< The door panels should have a chrome and black rocket emblem on them.  Our
69
 442 has the original door panels.  >>

THanks,

aaron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 15:04:07 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Pure Stock Racing

Oldsnut wrote:
>
> I just got through watching Pure Stock Drag Racing on MCC.  I noticed a '68
> H/O and a couple of '70 442s.  There was a great shot of a '70 442 taking a
> '70 T*rino by a couple of car lengths.  Great stuff!  Makes me want to take
> the Olds out and burn some rubber!


Yes, I got to watch that.  I really wished they would have spent more
time on the races than the studebaker stuff!  I felt the show's emphasis
was in the wrong state!  Talk about glued to the screen, though!!!  I
didn't move for half an hour!

Sure liked all the GS's there, too!  Man I wish I could have been there!
- --
               Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
        Sidney Montana

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 16:18:20 -0800
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Brake Swap

For those of you who are new, I have tweaked the brakes on my 66 98 by
adding a '79 toro
master cylinder and the Fiero reservoir, in addition to front discs from a
'70 88 and an adjustable
proportioning valve to keep the big 66 rear drums under control.

If any body wants pointers, let me know.

cf
Christian Fair

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 18:04:23 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Rear Deck Spoiler

> I have a 1972 Cutlass S with a Spoiler that was added by the previous
> owner.  I would like suggestions on what to use to protect the holes that
> were drilled for the mounting screws from rusting.  Also is there a gasket
> or anything that should be placed between the spoiler and the deck lid?


Here's the "scoop" on the decklid spoiler on the 69 H/O and 70-72
fastback models.

No gasket was used between the legs and trunklid.  However, originally,
a wad of GM ª9981145 sealer was placed over the 6 mounting holes on both
the outside AND inside of the holes from the factory.  Same stuff used
for the fender emblem holes.  Any "monkey sh*t" (Navy terminology) is
good. In other words, any flexible, gooey, sticky, non-hardening sealer
made for this purpose should do.  I use that flexible putty stuff for
sealing mobile home trailer windows.  It's grey, and comes rolled up,
ready to use.  I think they call it strip caulk at the hardware/Home
Depot/Lowe's store.  Just make sure it's compatible with steel.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 18:24:44 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: emblems/door panels

In a message dated 98-01-19 13:36:50 EST, you write:

<<  What codes
 are listing on your fisher tags (engine cowl driver's side)?  >>

not sure, car is in the shop, you know maybe, i've been imagining it's an S
and it's actually a red rocket, i'll look when i go to the shop, now i don't
know

original dash is dark blue to match the paint, carpeting was dark blue when i
got it

aaron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 16:21:07 -0800
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Rear Axle Arm Swap

So, o.k., I'm still looking for confirmation on whether A-body and B &C
body rear suspension
arms swap. The years I'm interested in are the 68-72 Cutlii swapping into
my 98 convertible
coupe. I'm seeing repro parts for these popular a bodies and would like to
put 'em in.

Question is what are the dimensions of these arms? I have some j-yard C
body arms from 65
which I can measure against for a match.

So does anybody have the dimensions of the rear suspension arms for the
popular a bodies?

Look forward to hearing from you.
cf
Christian Fair

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 16:26:34 -0800
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Re: Variable Vane Torque Converters

Karl,
If you can get an eletrical power source to the tranny, put the key in the
ignition in the run
position, disconnect the throttle rod from the carb (to keep from flooding
the engine), and
simply move the throttle rod back and forth. If you listen carefully as you
move it from idle
to WOT, you'll hear the switch pitch, or at least the kickdown switch
clicking. If you hear
two clicks through the travel, functional switch pitch and kickdown. If
only one, then you have
one function, but not the other.

The order across the throttle travel is switch pitch first (usu, just off
idle), then kickdown almost
at WOT.

Hope this helps

>What I was hoping for was some method of ID'ing such a TC as a "switch-pitch"
>converter by some stamping or other on the converter itself. For example. one
>of my ersatz parts cars may have an intact transmission/converter, but how
can
>I be certain that the converter is original?

Christian Fair

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 20:00:47 -0500
From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Subject: Re: BB combustion chambers

Hey, Rob,

12.03/112 says you obviously are pretty good at this, I see!  You run at
Milan, I presume?

Actually, I have a set of G heads that I'm porting, but I'm a bit leery of
creating more hotspots in the chambers, as well as creating eight
dissimilar shapes and sizes.  What all do you do to them?

Thanks,
Mike

At 01:48 PM 1/19/98 EST, you wrote:
>Mike,
>What da ya need to know.
>I have done several sets of Olds heads for fellow members
>of the Detroit Street Rockets and do porting as a sideline.
>If you don't have the right tools it can be a real pain in the hindend
>as you can damage the seats which can then cost $$ to repair.
>I'm down south of Detroit about 20 min. from Metro airport.
>I charge $ 75.00 pr. for polishing chambers.
>If your in the area or need more info e-mail me or stop by.
>
>Rgds,
>Rob Thomas
>69 442   (12.03 /112 mph thru full exhaust /Drag Radials)
>E-Mail  RPTW32@aol.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 20:08:09 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: emblems/door panels

In a message dated 98-01-19 19:18:45 EST, you write:

<< All 442 for 69 had a rocket emblem on door panel. If yours has the
 "S" emblem then the panels were not original for a 442 but were from a
Cutlass
 S
 I'm not positive but I believe that this is the case from 68-72. Another
 litter
 tid bit for identifying a real 442 if womeone claims one to be original. >>

that explains it, the VIN is 442, 34467... so the guy's story that he swapped
interiors when he painted the car is probably true, and my memory that it's a
red S, must be true (i'm glad i wasn't imagining it!)

aaron

aaron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 20:11:23 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: emblems/door panels/forgery

In a message dated 98-01-19 19:35:27 EST, you write:

<<  in case you can't open the hood  >>

how would one tell a forgery by opening the hood?

aaron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 18:36:52 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: 455 Oiling information needed

Had a guy E-mail me privately looking for diagrams or schematics of the
455's oiling system.  Anyone have any pertinent pic's posted anywhere?
I referred him to the FAQ, of course, but I didn't see an actual diagram
there.

               Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
        Sidney Montana

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 17:43:29 -0800
From: IRA <irahs@earthlink.net>
Subject: Recently rebuilt engine problems

I'm looking for help finding a problem with a friend's recently rebuilt
455. The engine develops a valve tick only after it warms up.  The
engine builder has tried 2 cams: Mondello JM18-20 and crane (don't know
p/n, but very mild), and has swarn he has checked/adjusted everything
that can be checked/adjusted in the valve train, twice. He was told the
noise was valve slap (common with aftermarket cams???) and to install
stiffer springs...still no help.

I recommended the Jm-20-22 - works great in my 455 but were wondering if
the problem is some where other that the valve train.   Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 20:50:33 -0500
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro

At 04:58 PM 1/16/98 -0500, you wrote:
Ken

        Sorry don't have any of those in stock right now. May be getting
some in near the end of the month.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts
(757)474-0869

>James and Joanne
>
>1966 post-coupe 442
>
>It wasn't on your list of parts ... BUT
>I am desperate to find the piece that
>attaches the steering coumn to the dash.
>It is probably called a steering column
>mount bracket, support, something like that.
>
>As I was working on wiring, I happened to look up
>and there it was, a rusted piece of metal strap
>holding the steering column in place.
>Pa leeeez ... have a real mounting bracket.
>
>Ken Swick
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 21:54:46 -0500
From: Tom Millard <oldspwr@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Project 455/4WD

After a short hiatus, I am now back on the mail list and am ready to begin
a new project.  Awhile back I mentioned that I would like to put an Olds
engine in a 81-87 Chevy/GMC 4WD pickup.  Well here it goes, "Project 455/4WD".

To start, a recently purchased an 84 Chevy Silverado 4WD with a 305, 700-4R
trans, and 2.73 gears.  As luck would have it, in my second week of
ownership the spider gears decided to let loose in the rear axle and in the
process a tooth was sheared off the pinion.  So after punching some
numbers, I replaced the 2.73's with 3.42's.  The engine now turns 2500 rpms
at 65mph which is a lot better than 1900 rpms.

So now on to the engine...  The 305 gets about 8 mpg on a good day, and
there is about 1" of vacuum cruising.  So I have decided to replace it with
a 455 Olds, and here is a list of parts I am using:

Block: 76 455 from a Vista Cruiser
Crank: Nodular Iron from a 71 Toronado
Rods: Stock 76
Pistons: Stock 76 (which should yield approx 8.5:1 compression)
Cam: Edelbrock Performer, which specs are comparable to a good RV cam for a
Big Block
Intake: 70 4 barrel non-egr
Carb: Stock Qjet from 76 455
Heads: K(small cap A) with 2.07" intakes and 1.68" exhausts

So here is what I know so far: These trucks cam with Olds 5.7 diesels up
until 81?.  In 82?, GM's Detroit Diesel division completely redesigned the
diesel and came up with the 6.2L.  Everybody I talked to so far has stated
that the bell housing of the 6.2 in the Chevy bolt battern and not the BOP.
 But I have also heard of people replacing 6.2's with Olds engines.  I plan
on keeping the overdrive trans so I will probably buy an adapter plate from
TCI for about $50.  This plate is available from Jegs and adapts Chevy
trans to BOP engines.

I know that somebody on this list has done this before, and I would
appreciate any help that I could get (like motor mounts, etc...)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 21:50:56 -0700
From: Boogah <Boogah@en.com>
Subject: Axle Ratio

Would would it take to change a 2:73 rear end (non posi) to 3:23 or
3:42?  By change I mean keep the existing axle and change the "innerds".


Thanks

J. Wolfe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 18:55:25 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Speaking of Strobe Lights

Took the 83 to Havre for the weekend.  An old buddy of mine is opening
up a Champion Auto store there, and looks to be a pretty decent deal.  I
took a pair of the Xenon-Super-Bright-Hi-Power-Blinder-headlamps off his
hands for him, (along with two Olds and one Buick keychain!)  Also ended
up getting a ~regular~ set of high output halogens to use as hi-beams.
(apparantly they don't make the "mean" ones as a hi-only model, so I now
have ~two~ cars with four dual element lights...)  I hooked the
"regular" ones up as the hi's, with the low element unhooked for now.
Made an incredible difference.  The low beams were brighter than the hi
beams used to be.  Pretty cool!  The guy I was staying with seemed a bit
concerned:  "Is that alternator gonna be able to keep up with all
that?"  Oh sure, not a problem.  The ~alternator~ did just fine, so did
the battery, which in and of itself is quite an impressive feat!  I get
about 150 miles down the road, and went to dim the lights for a truck I
was about to pass (it was about 11 pm, I guess)  Hit the dimmer, and I
~thought~ I'd seen the lights dim, but the hi-beam indicator was still
on.  Hmm.  Must be getting late.  Hit it again.  Good, they dimmed
normally.  I'm just pulling into a small (ghost?) town, and the truck
pulls over, so I don't have to work very hard to pass him.  I get back
through town, and hit the hi beams again, but the hi-beam indicator
doesn't come on.  Hmm, now dammit, I ~know~ I hit that thing ~this~
time!  Hit the dimmer again, and the hi-beam indicator comes on, and the
headlights go off...  All the way off!  Uh oh...  Wiggle the dimmer, and
the lights come on for a second.  Keep bumping it.  Try dimming again.
By now I've got the constant strobe light going on.  Hmm.  High output
headlights...  High ~input~ headlights too, apparantly.  Start
remembering high school science and that law of conservation of energy.
So I pull over to conserve some.  Meanwhile this truck is about to fly
by me again, so I shut the lights off myself (don't want him pulling
over, since my lights are flashing like mad!)  Pop the hood and unplug
the hi beam lamps.  Turn lights on.  They come on and stay on.  Both of
em!  So does the high beam indicator.  Dimmer switch is burned up.  I
can yank that lever all day long and nothing happens.  Sooooo, I drove
the next 150 miles with my demented low beams stuck on hi beam, with my
hi-beams inoperative.  In all that way, I never had one vehicle flash
me, including the three different cops I got stuck behind.  I was
partially impressed, and partially dissappointed.  Now I'm back home,
and digging for one of my spare dimmer switches.  I know I gave one away
a couple years ago, I hope I've still got another around here
somewhere!  I'd hate to have to ~buy~ one!  ~And~, I have to wire up a
relay to my hi-beams, and finish rewiring my hi beams, so that the two
inner (hi) bulbs can have both elements burning at all times.  Har har
har! More power!!!

               Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
        Sidney Montana

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 18:59:11 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Wanted: 77 442: Anything and everything

This friend of mine in Havre that's opening up the Champion Auto store
has a 77 442, and is in search of just about anything for it.  He's also
looking for another 77 442, I seem to recall someone here having one for
sale???  He's been desperately searching for grilles for it (suprise
suprise!)  He's expecting to be "networthy" within the next few months,
but right now, I'm his only connection.  Any leads/info/updates/etc.???

               Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
        Sidney Montana

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 21:28:15 -0500
From: loris <loris@tir.com>
Subject: Re: FYI:69 Cutlass bumper-to-lower radiator "filler"

I've not seen this mentioned
> anywhere else.  If you have a 69 Cutlass and are looking for that huge
> rubber flap that is used as a filler between the front bumper and lower
> radiator support,

Mike:

What is this part number from Year One?  If it can be modified for a
1969 then I'm sure I can do the same for a 1968. Thanks,

- -Loris
1968 Cutlass 'S' convertible
1972 Cutlass Supreme convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 21:48:12 -0500 (EST)
From: Warren Whitmore - MHNG/F95 <wwhitmor@acs.ryerson.ca>
Subject: 1975 Delta 88 Royale

I have a 1975 Delta 88 Royale and I was wondering if any of you
could help me out in regards to the engine in this car.  I had always
read that GM didn't start swapping engines in the full sized cars until
1977, but my car has a 400cid Pontiac 2bbl.  The vin is 3N39R5M176667 and
according to information I have found on both the Bryceman and Gulino
pages this engine is original and was option code L65.  But why did Olds
install 400 Pontiac engines for 1975 only?  According to info I have
found they offered the 400 2bbl(vin code R) and the 400 4bbl(vin code S).
Another thing I would like to mention, if anyone has the factory
Cruise Control and Power Door Lock mechanisms including correct switches,
from a parts car or new repro, give me a shout.

Thanks
Warren Whitmore

1975 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale 4-Door Hardtop.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 22:14:40 -0500
From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Subject: Fiber optics for 1977 Olds Cutlass

Hello All!!!

Anyone know where i can get the fiber optic strand that illuminates the
shift indicator glass for my Olds? My car is a 1977 Olds Cutlass with center
console.


TIA

Aaron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 22:22:57 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust crossover

Mike,
 I have filled heads with the Zinc alloy that Mondello/MIller sells  as well
as
using the block off plugs that they sell as well. The plugs need to be ground
filed to fit and can be put in with JB weld . However I also have seen these
come loose after awhile and then it sounds like you have a bag of marbles
rattling around in your motor.  If you don't have the heads cleaned properly
and use the ZINC melted in
then this also can come loose and either rattle or worse have some breakoff
and
take a ride inside your cylinder.
Not to scare ya but if you do it right no problem.. if ya don't .. you'll wish
ya did
later.

Rgds,
R.Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 21:37:10 -0600
From: senator@itis.com (Robert F. Newbegin Jr.)
Subject: Re: Plugging my EGR valve?

<snip of original message and valuable info on question>
When I purchased the car, it already had the open-element air filter, etc.
I have done very little modifying.  I know you're right, because I used to
have a '78 Buick Regal with a '74 Chevy 350, disconnected EGR.  It didn't
run as well as my Olds, though.  The reason I asked was that I thought at
high speeds, the EGR opened, allowing some exhaust gases to be reburned (I
also was pretty sure the EGR was connected to the snorkel, not the carb,
but I know little of the emission controls on my car).  I figured that if I
plugged the EGR itself, it would increase power/performance or something.
I don't think the carb has anything that isn't hooked up or plugged, so I
guess that's all taken care of.  If I found out the right place to put the
EGR-to-carb tube and hooked it up, it wouldn't hurt my performance to much,
would it?
However, it is running pretty good, and I should probably leave good enough
alone.  :-)



P.S. - Apologies for sending the original post to the wrong address.

Bob
'78 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 22:42:49 +0500
From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Subject: Re: Fiber optics for 1977 Olds Cutlass

>Anyone know where i can get the fiber optic strand that illuminates the
>shift indicator glass for my Olds? My car is a 1977 Olds Cutlass with center
>console.

I've seen fiber optic strands in the local hobby shop.  I only had a passing
interest in them (thought they were cool :) so I don't remember much about
them.  I think most of the strands were less than $.25 depending on size.
They were about 18 inches long and varying thickness.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cultass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 21:59:45 -0600
From: Kurt Bonifay <kbonifay@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Hood question

Chris,

I thought I remembered seeing two types of hoods in a salvage yard once
so I checked my assembly manual and it definitely shows two hoods.  One
hood has a flatter appearance with no left and right louvers.  I assume
that this is a standard hood.  The other is similar to most of the 442
hoods I have seen.  It has more of a bulge which runs length wise, and
louvers on the left and right side.  It also has the rear grill in the
center instead of a stamped grill in the flatter, standard hood.
BTW without this assembly manual and the chassis sevice manual I'd be
lost.  Definitely a worth while investment.

Rhett
68 442 conv (under restoration)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 23:18:50 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: adjustable valvetrains

That's why I'm a firm believer in aftermarket valve trains in rebuilt Old's
engines.  I think it's the only way to guarantee proper valve train geometry.
Mark Berube
=================
Yeah, me too, when I'm spending other people's money. I recommend you all buy
the $300-$400 adjustable rocker arm kit for your engine.

Myself, being er, "frugal", I have yet to be able to justify that outlay for my
engines when the stock method works just fine.

Minor deck & head milling [under 0.030" combined] merely serve to offset the
thicker head gasket that you get today. How come everyone is so very quick to
jump on the "milling changes everything" bandwagon, yet totally ignore the
fact that your head gasket thickness, which affects the exact same items, in
now 2x the original? Is the 0.020" negligible in one case but not the other?
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 00:22:16 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Plugging my EGR valve?

Robert F. Newbegin Jr. wrote:
>
> However, it is running pretty good, and I should probably leave good enough
> alone.  :-)

I replaced my EGR valve (84 CSC 307) about 2 weeks ago and used
old, old gasket sealer to seal it during a 30 degree day.  Hey, I
was young then.  :-)  Anyway, the motor starts chugging on the
way down to Tech from Christmas break, so I knew that seal went
bad.  I went to the local Advance Auto and bought some RTV Copper
(good to 700 degrees) and took the EGR valve off.  I found out
that the gasket that came with the valve had completely broken
into two and the sealer I had on there had aparently burned off.
The EGR mount was dry as a bone, no goo or stickiness
whatsoever.  So, I went in and bought a real nice Fel-Pro EGR
gasket and used the RTV Copper and man, that thing runs quiet and
strong now!  I think I'll take Robert's advice...and a little of
my own...and leave the car alone now!  I've finally gotten the
thing ~mostly~ straightened out since my little spark plug
escapade and I love how it runs now, so I'm done!  For now, I
_will_ leave well enough alone!

+---------------------------------------------------------------+
|__    ________|
|\ \  / __  __/Jason Adcock|
| \ \/ / / /CS Major, Virginia Tech|
|  \  / / /mailto:jadcock@vt.edu|
|   \/ /_/http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/|
||
+---------------------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 22:24:19 -0500
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Re: FYI:69 Cutlass bumper-to-lower radiator "filler"

>Hey all,
>
>Just thought I'd pass this '69 tip along.  I've not seen this mentioned
>anywhere else.  If you have a 69 Cutlass and are looking for that huge
>rubber flap that is used as a filler between the front bumper and lower
>radiator support, and are unable to find one from other sources, do what
>I did.  I ordered a new part for the 71 442 a few weeks ago from Year
>One.  Very nice.  Too bad they only listed them for the 70-72's because
>my 69 H/O wants one too.  So just for fun, I matched them up.  Guess
>what?  If you trim a little bit (couple of inches or so) from the left
>and right sides of the new rubber, it WILL fit the 69s.  So I got
>another one just for that purpose.  Ensure you make the cut even.  I
>used one of those big old construction paper cutters like we used in
>grade school, the ones with the huge cutting handle.  I talked to Year
>One, and they said they would check with their tech staff about possibly
>adding a note to the listing stating that it could fit 69's with minor
>trimming.
>
>Mike Rothe

Is this just the "seal-air deflector to bumper" which is stapled to the
"deflector-radiator air lower" or the entire assembly?


Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª1064
*********************************
