
oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, January 13 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1055



Re: Bleeding Brakes
Re[2]: driver/passenger mirrors for 69 442? anyone done this
72 Cutlass problems
re: Front Suspension Rebuild Advice
Re: front bolt
Re[2]: driver/passenger mirrors for 69 442? anyone done this
Re[2]: HEI Conversion
Re: 1970 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
Barris Pulsator
rear end noise
dirty posts, sore readers?
qjet #'s
68/9 LHMirror removal
Spoiler on Cutlass
Old's for sale, PNW
Re: Big Car Rear Sway Bar
poor idle
67' 442 drop top
Re: driver/passenger mirrors for 69 442? anyone done this
Re: rear end noise
Re: Old's for sale, PNW
Re: driver/passenger mirrors for 69 442? anyone done this
Re: rear end noise
Re: Wanted: 69' 442 Cruise Control Transducer
low oil pressure
Re[2]: Bleeding Brakes
Re: 72 Cutlass problems
Re: Info request
Re: low oil pressure
Little bit o' humor
Re: low oil pressure
Sticking/frozen door seals
Re: low oil pressure
Re: 72 Cutlass problems
Re: Sticking/frozen door seals
Gaskets, and Fel-Pro Buyout.. (Re: 455 head gasket replacement)
Re: Spoiler on Cutlass
Re: Spoiler on Cutlass
Re: Back for now
transmission ID and swap
RE: 72 Cutlass problems
FS: 70 442 convertible
Re: transmission ID and swap
Re: low oil pressure
Re: Stall problems
Are these good prices?
Re: engine stutter, and anifreeze smell
Power seat Drive Cable
Mime-Version: 1.0
Re: rear end noise
Re: engine stutter, and anifreeze smell
Re: Sticking/frozen door seals

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 22:57:33 EST
From: AGUY4RUMLI <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Bleeding Brakes

In a message dated 98-01-12 22:21:19 EST, you write:

<<  Do the front brakes need bled or just the rears?  I can't remember where
to
 
 John:
 
 Bleed them all to do it right and and to be safe.  I was taught to begin
 with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder.  So, first is the
 passenger rear, next is the driver rear, passenger front and then driver
 front.
  >>
The above is correct but if you installed a master cylinder you should do what
they call a bench bleed first. Put the master in place dont connect the lines.
Run 2 lines from the master outports looped up into the master,deep enough so
they are under the fluid level .(some new masters come with this kit or you
can purchase it).Fill the master and pump the brakes very slowly this will get
all the air out of the master first. I also read they like you to jack the
rear of the car so the master cylinder is level, to prevent trapped air. 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 98 15:35:09 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: driver/passenger mirrors for 69 442? anyone done this

Mike Rothe wrote:

The allen screws would be easy to replace, at any machine shop or fastener 
distributor. 
     
     Careful, Mike.  I seem to recall that these are special fasteners with 
     large button heads under the door which clamp the mirror to the door 
     skin when the fastener is pulled up (ie, turned _counterclockwise_).  
     Have you actually found a source for them?  As Greg correctly pointed 
     out, the screws must be turned _clockwise_ to unclamp the mirror from 
     the door.  I'd try a good soaking with WD-40 before resorting to 
     drilling.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 23:25:42 EST
From: EDZX6 <EDZX6@aol.com>
Subject: 72 Cutlass problems

To anyone that can help:

First I like to say that I'm new on the list and I'm enjoying it very much.  I
have a couple of questions.  

My 72 Cutlass has hooker comp headers and they are about 1 1/2 yrs old. The
rearmost exhaust pipe on the driver side header has develop a crack that is
working its way all around the pipe.  My first thought was that maybe I broke
an engine mount and the twisting force of the engine cause a stress fracture
but, the mounts are good and I did replace them a year ago.  A friend of mine
advised me to use solid mounts vice the rubber mounts normaly used.  Is this a
good idea and could it solve the problem? I hate to buy another pair of
headers and ruin them too. 

My second question is about the carb.  At the present time the car has a
holley 600 cfm double pumper w/holley alum intake, crane cam, double roller
timing chain, HEI (w/adv kit) MSD 6al ignition, headers w/flowmasters, elec
fuel pump, elec fans, and the car is a 350 cid .030 over w/a 4 spd tranny 3:23
posi.  I hope all this details help to answer this simple question, IS THIS
CARB TOO SMALL??? I'm being told that what I need is a 750 cfm double pumper.
Is this true or are they just trying to take my money at the performance
shop?? At the present time I'm getting around 14.79 et's at the strip. Is this
about right?

Thank you all for any info that my help me 
Eddie 72 Culass S Conv
EDZX6@aol.com  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 15:49:47 -0800
From: Darrin Johnson <xdarrinj@dpcmail.itg.ti.com>
Subject: re: Front Suspension Rebuild Advice

- --BeyondBoundary_3_Mon_Jan_12_15:49:48_1998__18BE
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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>  From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>, on 1/9/98 11:29 AM:
>  

>  At the same time, check the bolt holes for obvious wear 
>  and, if any is found, a little welding is necessary for safety.  
>  
>  Al Varhus
>  Columbus, Ohio 
>  http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
> 

I have recently replaced a damaged upper control arm on my 72 Cutlass
convertible.  Unfortunately, I discovered that a previous owner had stripped
out the ridges in the bolt holes that keep the mounting bolts from turning in
the frame bracket.  I was assuming that this would be an inconvience during an
alignment or other service, but now I am concerned that it might also be a
safety issue.  Any ideas?  Any suggestions on how to repair?


Darrin Johnson	
1972 Cutlass Convertible


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- --BeyondBoundary_3_Mon_Jan_12_15:49:48_1998__18BE--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 98 16:01:59 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: front bolt

Chris  B. Witt suggested:

..I vote for the "old pulley made into long handle" trick. I see another 
product for RS to offer here...
     
     Gee, Chris, and to think that the rights to this product can be bought 
     for, oh, an oil pump driveshaft.  ;-)
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 98 15:26:05 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: driver/passenger mirrors for 69 442? anyone done this

Lloyd Ferguson wrote:

I was at the Olds Club on Wedneday talking about this same subject.  One of 
the guys there said that "sports mirrors" (the ones painted the same as the 
body color) are also correct for this car although I have never seen them.
     
     Nope, sorry.  The body color sport mirrors were not released until the 
     1970 model year.  In addition, as Mike Rothe had pointed out, the 
     contour of the door (and thus the base of the mirror) is different on 
     the 68-69 and 70-72 cars, preventing the later mirrors from being used 
     on the earlier cars.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30
     
     

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 98 15:08:51 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: HEI Conversion

Up and down movement is normal...
     
     Careful with that.  Up and down movement is normal, but unfortunately, 
     too much can cause problems.  Since the distributor drive gears are 
     helically cut, up and down play in the distributor shaft can lead to 
     timing changes as the distributor driven gear moves up and down 
     relative to the cam gear.  Mr. Gasket and others sell shim kits which 
     allow you to take out most of this unwanted motion.  These are simply 
     precision ground washers of various thicknesses which go between the 
     distributor gear and the housing to take out the end play.  Just drive 
     out the split pin holding the gear to the shaft, place the shims over 
     the end of the shaft, and reinstall the gear and retaining pin.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 23:43:38 EST
From: JCutlass <JCutlass@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 1970 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

Had my 68 top done recently. Mounted no less than 3 major attacks on that
sucka before I beat a hasty retreat to the professionals. Never had something
kick my arss so bad. I suspect that the top was not installed correctly. ( I
can see why that is now)  My guess that the rear bow, the one the top of the
rear window curtain is attached to, was not in the right position when it was
stapled to the bow. Any experts out there on conv tops, please explain how
this is calculated. While your at it, how in the world do you adjust the
attachment to the belt line tack bars.
Amazed at how anyone can gets the things to fit correctly.
Tim in Oklahoma
68 Cutlass S conv

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 23:48:27 EST
From: DrkSole <DrkSole@aol.com>
Subject: Barris Pulsator

Just a bit of wondering, I was looking through a book on GTO's,.. "the big
little GTO book", and in the section on competeing muscle cars, it mentions
that "george barris made a kit to transform a 70 442 to 'The Pulsator'"  
Was this an actual aftermarket kit? and if so what did it include? Or did this
refer to the show car of the same name?  thanks..

Donovan
73 Cutlass Supreme
67 Delta 88 Custom

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 23:53:58 EST
From: JCutlass <JCutlass@aol.com>
Subject: rear end noise

68 Cutlasss S conv has what sounds like tire noise in the rear, seems like
more rear right. Increases with speed, frequency with the tire revolution. I
first thought it was tire or wheel messed up, but recently replaced tires and
new wheels. Could this be a bent axle? No scraping or whining sound, no
squeeks. Sounds similiar to going over pavement cracks but quicker. Any ideas?
Tim 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 00:01:27 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: dirty posts, sore readers?

Subject: Removal
uns*bscribe oldsmobile nlamboy@global2000.net
I hope this finally work I been trying to get myself of for a couple of days
know.
===========
Damn, this guy is gonna be SORE! Been trying for days to "get himself off" eh?

Speaking of which, am I the only reader who found the following just riddled
with double-entendres?  Worn & corroded socket, two studs... ahem. Just me.
...

There is a ball on the support which is supposed to ride in a socket on the
head.  There is also a spring piece with a hole which goes between two
studs cast into the head.  This spring is supposed to supply tension by
pulling the head's socket up against the ball.  On mine the socket is worn
and corroded.  Before I had it re-mirroed I tigthened it up by bending the
spring a little by hitting it with the pointed end of a body hammer.  It
worked for about a week and if I want to try it again I will have to break
and replace the $15 glass again.  In short it is just worn out.
Lloyd Ferguson

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 00:03:38 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: qjet #'s

I looked at the casting number on my QJ today. The number is 7042250.
This means it's from a '72! Now I'll never know if I have an L-34 or
L-35! Then there's a number below that that says 0392. I'm guessing this
means March 9, 72?
===============
L-34, L-35, what's the difference?

The 0392 is the date code: day 039 of 1972... 8 days into February '72, right?
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 00:09:50 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 68/9 LHMirror removal

How about for 68 442s?  Is there a two outside mirror setup combination
that can work?

BTW, I tried to get the mirror off of my 68 yesterday and was unable to
unscrew the bolt off with an allen wrench.  If I have to drill these
pups out, can I get replacement bolts?  Chris
================
There were '68-9 RHMirrors at the centennial swap meet, Ron Memmer had one
recently.

DO NOT attempt to drill out the screws; all that will get you besides a muffed
up mirror is hollow screws. The Michigan-approved method:

Place piece of wood or tough plastic agains the front of the mirror base where
it meets the body. Using a Ford Tool, smack the plastic or wood, and thus the
mirror, gently rearward. After it moves 1/4" or so, it will pop out and fall to
the ground and break. Unless you catch it. Now, you can attack those pesky
screws from the bottom w/ vice grips or whatever it takes.

No, these screws are NOT available at any hardware store. The head is very wide
& short in height, smooth, and the hex recess is in the END OF THE SCREW where
the threads are. That's why you tighten them to loosen them, on non-rusty cars.

btw, I've been saving them for years, have a good stash now. And, before
installing them, GREASE them well so that next time you can use the hex key
from outside method!
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 00:57:05 +0000
From: "Joe Gerschutz" <gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu>
Subject: Spoiler on Cutlass

Does anyone know of a spoiler, such as from a Mont* or something, 
that I could fit to a G-Cutlass?  I want to put two orange racing 
stripes (persay the Anny Camaro) down my (arctic?) white Calais.  Has 
anyone ever done this or have/seen pictures of it?  A spoiler would 
look kick *ss with this.  Combine that with my whopping 231ci  and I 
would rule the road.  Thanks.

Joe



- --------------------------------------------------
- ---Joe Gerschutz------------------------------
- ---University of Dayton----------------------
- ---gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu--------
- --------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 22:17:57 -0800
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Old's for sale, PNW

Saw these for sale in E. WA, thought someone might be interested.

'67 Olds 442, V-8 auto, runs and drives great, original and restorable, no
rust or dents, needs paint and interior work.  $1995 cash, $2695 contract.
(509) 928-4977

[the picture on this one is nice and big.  Looks very straight, I can't see
any rust, and the two-tone paint job looks good to me]

'64 Olds F-85 Convertible.  90% restored.  1 of 280 mfd.  $12500 invested.
$6995  (509) 928-4977

And I met a guy at Napa the other day (he noticed my H/O jacket) with a 75
H/O for sale.  He's the original owner, bought the car in Arizona new, and
the car has a little over 100k miles on it, from his description it sounds
like a low #3 to mid #4 condition.  He hasn't driven it in 6 years and wants
to see it go to a good home, he mentioned he was hoping to get about $3000.
The H/OCA price watch says this car should go between $3500 and $5600.  Jerry
Scott, (509) 922-3648.

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 00:39:44 -0600 (CST)
From: Bryceman <bryceman@442.com>
Subject: Re: Big Car Rear Sway Bar

>When I installed the rear bar on the Delta I bought brackets from GM that
>fit inside the inverted-U shaped lower arms. They are held in place with
>4 self-tapping bolts, and the sway bar bolts to the bracket via nuts

Cool Greg, I didnt know they made those. You happen to have those part
numbers still?

Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Oldsmobiles!
'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender
'65 442 Post Coupe
'65 Vista Cruiser
'72 H/O Convertible Pace Car Replica
Email: bryceman@442.com  URL: www.442.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 22:49:12 -0800 (PST)
From: Jack Karamanos <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: poor idle

just a thought. do you have the $16 gasket that is required to put an
afb/edelbrock carb on a q-jet edelbrock performer manifold?  a 455 i have
would run bad and still show no vacuum fluctuation or surge with a spray
of juice at the base.  put expensive gasket in place and wow it runs
great.  lifters, maybe too generic, one size fits olds, buick, and tin
indians?

47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 03:24:21 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: 67' 442 drop top

List,
	Does anyone have a 67' 442 drop top with TH400 ??
If so please get back to me privately.


					The General

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 05:39:41 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: driver/passenger mirrors for 69 442? anyone done this

> The allen screws would be easy to replace, at any machine shop or fastener
> distributor.
> 
>      Careful, Mike.  I seem to recall that these are special fasteners with
>      large button heads under the door which clamp the mirror to the door
>      skin when the fastener is pulled up (ie, turned _counterclockwise_).

What was I thinking????  Sorry for the memory lapse folks, I've been
duely corrected.  It's been such a long time since I've messed with
these type of mirrors (I do sport mirrors), so my twisted little mind
forgot about the "button" head.  CHRIS, DON'T DRILL!  Whew!  Thanks guys
for setting me straight.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 19:43:10 +0900
From: James Zito <jimzito@uriel.net>
Subject: Re: rear end noise

JCutlass wrote:

> 68 Cutlasss S conv has what sounds like tire noise in the rear, seems like
> more rear right. Increases with speed, frequency with the tire revolution. I
> first thought it was tire or wheel messed up, but recently replaced tires and
> new wheels. Could this be a bent axle? No scraping or whining sound, no
> squeeks. Sounds similiar to going over pavement cracks but quicker. Any ideas?
> Tim

  sounds like it might be a bad axle seal, pull the brake drum and look for
leaking gear oil.

Jim
'69 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 04:48:01 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Old's for sale, PNW

Tom Lentz wrote:
> 
> like a low #3 to mid #4 condition.

You know what we need folks is some kind of pictoral guide to a #6, #5,
#4, #3, #2 condition cars.  When I try to buy from other people, they
tend to value their car higher than what I perceive there car to be.
If I had a picture of say a representable 2 - 6 condition car, then I
can point to this reference.  BTW I don't think we need a #1 condition
picture because most people are selling anything that perfect.  Any
suggestions?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 04:50:00 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: driver/passenger mirrors for 69 442? anyone done this

MROTHE wrote:
> 
> CHRIS, DON'T DRILL!  Whew!  Thanks guys for setting me straight.

Don't worry I didn't.  Got those buggers off.  I was unscrewing them
the wrong way.  Once I got it right, they came right off.

Thanks,

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 08:40:35 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: rear end noise

I think the areas I would check would be the axle bearing and the pinion
bearing
Another thought have you checked your U joint lately?

Robert Schinkel

- ----------
> From: JCutlass <JCutlass@aol.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: rear end noise
> Date: Monday, January 12, 1998 11:53 PM
> 
> 68 Cutlasss S conv has what sounds like tire noise in the rear, seems
like
> more rear right. Increases with speed, frequency with the tire
revolution. I
> first thought it was tire or wheel messed up, but recently replaced tires
and
> new wheels. Could this be a bent axle? No scraping or whining sound, no
> squeeks. Sounds similiar to going over pavement cracks but quicker. Any
ideas?
> Tim 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 08:41:28 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted: 69' 442 Cruise Control Transducer

In a message dated 98-01-12 22:12:04 EST, you write:

<< Do you know what type is on the '69???   If it is Perfect Circle I have
 transducers, or as Perfect Circle called them regulators.  I also can get a
 wiring diagram.   The hardest part to find will likely be the vacumn diaphram
 that hooks to accellerator linkage.  I have installed and trouble shot
several
 in past.  I will help if I can.
 Mr57olds >>

Thanks.

I don't know what type is on the 69, as i recall it's just a big 6 inch
silver/grey box, but the car is in the shop having major surgery, so i'll
probably have to wait until it comes back.  It would be great to have cruise
on it though!!

Thanks,
Aaron

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 09:09:34 -0500
From: Doug and Carolyn <cale@erols.com>
Subject: low oil pressure

I have a 70 olds 350 that has been rebuilt. we replaced the oil pump
with a stock trw pump, at idle in drive with the car fully warmed up at
600 rpms im getting only 15 pounds of oil pressure, in drive at 850 rpms
im getting about 18 pounds of oil pressure on the highway iget about 40
psi.

My question is the oil pressure to low ?

what should the stock oil pressure be?

i do not want to blow up this motor, Doug Bennitt

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 98 09:19:31 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: Bleeding Brakes

<< Do the front brakes need bled or just the rears?  I can't remember where to
 start - nearest the master cylinder or furthest from it? >>
     
You can just bleed the wheel that was worked on, but you might want to bleed 
the whole system if you haven't done it in a while.  Start with the wheel 
farthest from the master cylinder.
     
     NO!  Both rear wheel cylinders are tied to a single line out of the 
     MC.  If the system has been opened at all, _both_ rear wheels (at a 
     minimum) must be bled.  Also keep in mind that the proportioning valve 
     (either built in to the brake distribution block or a separate valve 
     below the MC) must be held open during this bleeding.  There should be 
     a rubber boot on one end of the valve which covers a button.  The 
     button must be depressed during the bleeding.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 98 09:48:51 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass problems

Eddie 72 Culass S Conv asked:

My 72 Cutlass has hooker comp headers...rearmost exhaust pipe on the driver 
side header has develop a crack...

     It sounds to me like you just got (un)lucky and have a set of headers 
     which unfortunately had some sort of crack or void in the weld of the 
     pipes to the collector.  This crack propagated over time due to engine 
     vibration.  Rather than buying new headers (assuming they are still good 
     except for the crack), try removing the cracked header, drilling a small 
     hole at either end of the crack (to prevent it from propagating further) 
     and having it professionally welded.

..A friend of mine advised me to use solid mounts vice the rubber mounts 
normaly used.  Is this a good idea and could it solve the problem?..

     I doubt it.  All the solid mounts will do is transfer more vibration to 
     the rest of the car, making it unbearable to live with.  A more useful 
     think to investigate is the method used to support the rest of your 
     exhaust system.  Did you use factory-style hangers or the cheap 
     aftermarket units?  You _do_ have rubber isolators in the hangers, don't 
     you?  Are the exhaust pipes preloaded - did they need to be forced into 
     place to attach them to the hangers?  All of these can put undue stress 
     on the header pipes which can contribute to the fatigue crack you've 
     seen.
     
My second question is about the carb.  At the present time the car has a 
holley 600 cfm double pumper w/holley alum intake, crane cam, double roller 
timing chain, HEI (w/adv kit) MSD 6al ignition, headers w/flowmasters, elec 
fuel pump, elec fans, and the car is a 350 cid .030 over w/a 4 spd tranny 3:23 
posi.  I hope all this details help to answer this simple question, IS THIS 
CARB TOO SMALL???

     Let's do the math.  A 350 has cylinders of 43.75 cu in, or 0.025 cu ft, 
     each.  Since a cylinder only fills once for every two crank revs, four 
     cylinders will fill per rev, or 0.1 cu ft/rev.  600 cu ft/min divided by 
     0.1 cu ft/rev equals 6000 RPM required to use a 600 cfm carb, assuming 
     100% volumetric efficiency.  Since most normal street engines run in the 
     85-90% volumetric efficiency range, the 600 cfm carb is more than 
     adequate for you application.  Granted this is just a rough calculation 
     and doesn't take into account the cam, intake type, head work, and drag 
     strip usage.  A lot depends on whether this is a street car with 
     occasional strip usage or a strip car which is used to cruise on 
     weekends.

 I'm being told that what I need is a 750 cfm double pumper. Is this true or 
are they just trying to take my money at the performance shop??

     The 750, especially a double pumper, is way too much carb for a mild 
     small block.  At least a vacuum secondary carb will limit the airflow to 
     that required by the engine, but a double pumper with its mechanical 
     secondaries, will be too much.  Returning to the formula above, you'd 
     need to turn over 7500 RPM to use the 750.

 At the present time I'm getting around 14.79 et's at the strip. Is this about 
right?

     This isn't unreasonable, as you have a heavy car with fairly tall gears.  
     You should be able to do a little better, depending on tire size and 
     launch technique.  Definitely use the shortest tires you can, and more 
     aggressive gearing (3.73 or 3.91) would help a lot.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30
     

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 09:10:10 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: Re: Info request

> I was pulling off the passenger side door panel from my 
> 68 SC and out popped this huge spring (4-5" long) (Keep 
> it clean boys! ;-)  What purpose does it have in the door?
> The driver's side didn't even have one.

Um... if it's short and wide, it would be the spring that
goes over the window crank shaft before you put the door
panel on, to keep the panel pressed against the underside
of the crank handle.

If it's long and thin, maybe it's a counterbalance spring
for the window regulator. Is it noticeably harder to wind
up the window on the passenger's side than the driver's side?
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 11:16:08 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: low oil pressure

Hi Doug and Carolyn

In my 70 cutlass at idle I run about 30psi, at drive speeds around 45psi,
and during highway and racing up around 60psi.  

I would definately say there is a problem somewhere.  First place I would
look would be the preasure gauge itself, make sure it is working properly. 
If you know someone with a guage borrow theres and see if preasure is the
same.
If there is no difference look at the pump, because 18psi will driving is
to low.
One more thing when was your last oil change.  If it was a long time ago
yor oil could be shot 

Robert Schinkel 

- ----------
> From: Doug and Carolyn <cale@erols.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.CA
> Subject: low oil pressure
> Date: Tuesday, January 13, 1998 9:09 AM
> 
> I have a 70 olds 350 that has been rebuilt. we replaced the oil pump
> with a stock trw pump, at idle in drive with the car fully warmed up at
> 600 rpms im getting only 15 pounds of oil pressure, in drive at 850 rpms
> im getting about 18 pounds of oil pressure on the highway iget about 40
> psi.
> 
> My question is the oil pressure to low ?
> 
> what should the stock oil pressure be?
> 
> i do not want to blow up this motor, Doug Bennitt

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 11:29:19 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Little bit o' humor

Subject:Girlfriend upgrade
- --------------------------

	Last year, my friend upgraded his GirlFriend 3.1 to GirlFriendPlus 1.0
(marketing name: Fiancee 1.0). Recently he upgraded Fiancee 1.0 to Wife
1.0 and it's a memory hogger, has taken all his space; and Wife 1.0 must
be running before he can do anything. Although he didn't ask for them,
Wife 1.0 came with Plug-Ins such as MotherInLaw and BrotherInLaw.

Some features I'd like to see in the upcoming GirlFriend 4.0...
 - A "Don't remind me again" button
 - Minimize button
 - Shutdown feature
 - An installshield feature so that Girlfriend 4.0 can be completely
   uninstalled if so desired (so you don't lose cache and other objects)

	I tried running Girlfriend 2.0 with Girlfriend 1.0 still installed,
they tried using the same I/O port and conflicted.  Then I tried to
uninstall Girlfriend 1.0 but it didn't have an uninstall program.  I
tried to uninstall it by hand, but it put files in my system directory. 
Another thing that sucks -- in all versions of Girlfriend that I've used
is that it is totally "object orientated" and only supports hardware
with gold plated contacts.

*****  BUG WARNING  ********

	Wife 1.0 has an undocumented bug. If you try to install Mistress 1.1
before uninstalling Wife 1.0, Wife 1.0 will delete MSMoney files before
doing the uninstall itself. Then Mistress 1.1 will refuse to install,
claiming insufficient resources.

- -- 
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
- - Here we go Steelers!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 12:25:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Nathan Wayne Anderson <na370197@oak.cats.ohiou.edu>
Subject: Re: low oil pressure

check your oil pressure sending unit, which is on the intake manifold near
the firewall,it could have a leak.


On Tue, 13 Jan 1998, Doug and Carolyn wrote:

> I have a 70 olds 350 that has been rebuilt. we replaced the oil pump
> with a stock trw pump, at idle in drive with the car fully warmed up at
> 600 rpms im getting only 15 pounds of oil pressure, in drive at 850 rpms
> im getting about 18 pounds of oil pressure on the highway iget about 40
> psi.
> 
> My question is the oil pressure to low ?
> 
> what should the stock oil pressure be?
> 
> i do not want to blow up this motor, Doug Bennitt
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 11:33:36 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: Sticking/frozen door seals

I'm having this problem on several cars... Today it's a
nice brisk 2 degrees below zero (F) this morning, and I
found when I opened the cars to warm them up that the
door gaskets are sticking to the opposite pillar in some
places. On the spouse's little wagon, it actually tore
part of the seal off the door where it was stuck to the
base of the A pillar.

Probably my fault for washing the cars in the winter, but
what sort of goop can I put on the door seals that will
keep them from freezing the doors shut if they're wet?
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 13:07:36 -0500
From: Brian Richardson <brian.richardson@mci.com>
Subject: Re: low oil pressure

I have a 72 Cutlass 350. My oil pressure starts at 40psi until it has been
run for about 20 minutes where it drops to 15 while idling in drive and
then increases to 25psi while driving and up to 40 while on the
highway..... just thought I'd give you my 2 cents worth.



Brian.richardson@mci.com
1972 Cutlass 442


At 11:16 AM 1/13/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi Doug and Carolyn
>
>In my 70 cutlass at idle I run about 30psi, at drive speeds around 45psi,
>and during highway and racing up around 60psi.  
>
>I would definately say there is a problem somewhere.  First place I would
>look would be the preasure gauge itself, make sure it is working properly. 
>If you know someone with a guage borrow theres and see if preasure is the
>same.
>If there is no difference look at the pump, because 18psi will driving is
>to low.
>One more thing when was your last oil change.  If it was a long time ago
>yor oil could be shot 
>
>Robert Schinkel 
>
>----------
>> From: Doug and Carolyn <cale@erols.com>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.CA
>> Subject: low oil pressure
>> Date: Tuesday, January 13, 1998 9:09 AM
>> 
>> I have a 70 olds 350 that has been rebuilt. we replaced the oil pump
>> with a stock trw pump, at idle in drive with the car fully warmed up at
>> 600 rpms im getting only 15 pounds of oil pressure, in drive at 850 rpms
>> im getting about 18 pounds of oil pressure on the highway iget about 40
>> psi.
>> 
>> My question is the oil pressure to low ?
>> 
>> what should the stock oil pressure be?
>> 
>> i do not want to blow up this motor, Doug Bennitt
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 13:49:49 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass problems

Eddie,

 I can speak from experience in that I installed one (driver side) solid
mount on my 69 442. Prior to I ran a torque strap from frame to motor on
driver side. I haven't experienced any problems with running this set up.
Granted I'm running an AUTO vs. 4 sp. but also run a 3000 stall with 4.10
rear and 455 so suspect torque is every bit as much as what you'd slap
with reving 4 sp.  
 In theory the 600 shld be sufficient but on paper mine calls for 658 cfm
also.
I stepped up from a 750 vac. to 855 vac. and saw immediate increase in MPH.
 If your running 14.79  now what is your 60' times and MPH thru the traps.
MPH will tell HP and 60' will dictate ET more.  3.23 gears aren't exactally
what you'd call killer 1/4 mile set up but then depends on how much you drive
on the steet and how much ya want to spend for gas.
 Also what type of tires are you using at the track. If your spinning radials
then I'd
think about spending $$ on a good set of street stickies first. I run the BFG
DRAG
RADIAL  G60-15 and have run best last year of 12.03/ 112 mph thru the tail
pipes  ("3" exhaust all the way though.)
 If your not hooking now I'd work on that before putting more power down and
being
dissappointed more.  

Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 13:59:28 -0600
From: Shang <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Re: Sticking/frozen door seals

Green, Andrew wrote:
> 
> I'm having this problem on several cars... Today it's a
> nice brisk 2 degrees below zero (F) this morning, and I
> found when I opened the cars to warm them up that the
> door gaskets are sticking to the opposite pillar in some
> places. On the spouse's little wagon, it actually tore
> part of the seal off the door where it was stuck to the
> base of the A pillar.
> 
> Probably my fault for washing the cars in the winter, but
> what sort of goop can I put on the door seals that will
> keep them from freezing the doors shut if they're wet?
> --
> Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
> Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
> 101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
> Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282



Put a light coat of vaseline on them - keep the water off of the seals.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 12:43:02 EST
From: CRuper1 <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Gaskets, and Fel-Pro Buyout.. (Re: 455 head gasket replacement)

In a message dated 98-01-12 23:01:01 EST, you write:

<< 
 Hi Bob,
 The permatorque head gaskets and valve cover gaskets should be available at
 any good auto parts store although they may have to ordered.  Most auto parts
 don't stock much Old's stuff.  I prefer Felpro gaskets, but Mr. Gasket and
ROL
 are also good.  As far as the valley pan is concerned, the pan is actually a
 part of a stock intake manifold gasket, it is sandwiched between the intake
 and heads.  If you're running a stock cast iron intake then use stock intake
 gaskets and the valley pan is
 taken care of.  If you're running an aluminum intake don't use stock gaskets,
 they won't seal at the reduced torque when running an aluminum intake.  Use a
 good aftermarket gasket instead.  In that case you can run without the valley
 pan or get a bolt in from Mondello.
 
  >>

I've used the "valley pan" type of intake gasket on both the Stock Cast Iron,
and Aluminum Edelbrock manifolds I've used.  I've also used the Fel-Pro, and
Detroit Gasket offerings, and in all of the above cases, they have worked fine
(I've only used Detroit on the head gaskets, but they have worked well the
couple of times I've used them).

On a side note...  I saw today that Fel-Pro is being bought out by Federal
Mogul for $720 Mil. (and Fel-Pro has accepted the offer, from what I saw on
the news bulletin).

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 14:13:17 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Spoiler on Cutlass

> Does anyone know of a spoiler, such as from a Mont* or something,
> that I could fit to a G-Cutlass? 

Been there done that.  A few of us have already, actually.  An early
80's Firebird wing works quite well there.  A little bit off, but close
enough for government work...  I've got a few pics of mine scattered
around on my page...


               Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
		http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
		        Sidney Montana

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 16:44:23 -0500
From: "Jason K. Adcock" <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Spoiler on Cutlass

Charley Buehner wrote:
>
> Been there done that.  A few of us have already, actually.  An early
> 80's Firebird wing works quite well there.  A little bit off, but close

Check out Brandon Schmich's 1986 Cutlass Salon, viewable at www.442.com

He has a Fiero wing that doesn't look too bad!  Email him for details, I'm
just passing the link along...
____________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 16:57:01 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Back for now

At the end, of course, I have a question.  8-)  I have very squeaky
somethings in the front end.  I can't believe it's the bushings (PST
polyurethane), but it's an awful lot of squeaking to be just body work. 
Does anyone have any experience with fixing squeaky body work, esp. in the
front of the car?

Jason K. Adcock
- ---------
My '77 Delta developed a very annoying squeak this past fall. It was happening
somewhere near the passenger side cowl area, and it was pretty loud. I could
duplicate it by pulling and pushing the fender up and down, but it was hard to
pinpoint the location. Turned out to be where the top of the fender meets the
cowl - actually right at that bolt that sticks up.

Tightened the fender and hood hinge bolts - were a bit loose, but didn't help.
It seemed a body shim was in order, that didn't help either, removed it. The fix
was to put a 4"x4" piece of bicycle tube (cut with a hole for the bolt) between
the fender and cowl. Looks fine, works great! No more squeaks!
- -- 
David Brown              Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com      OR     http://www.en.com/users/thall
    http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
  http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/zip/oldsfaq4.zip

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 17:56:50 -0500
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@mail.cvn.net>
Subject: transmission ID and swap

I have a transmission in the shop. The guy who gave it 
to me swore it was out of a 70 442

I checked the id plate on rt side of transmission:
    77 PA 19965

This tells me a couple of things 
1. it is a 77 model
2. It is not an Olds, as I understand it.
3. It must be a Pontiac.

Next question, assuming it did come out of 
70 442 ... does this transmission bolt onto 
a 1969 Cutlass S 350ci ... or 1 1966 442 400ci.

From just looking at my 67 trans in the 66, the
configuration looks the same ..  But will it fit.

Any ideas. A guy wants it for his 69 350 S
I don't want to mislead him.    Ken





  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 18:23:03 -0500
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: 72 Cutlass problems

The headers probably already had a crack to begin with. I would not
advise you go with solid mounts as the car would feel entirely
different. You may be transferring too much into the frame.

As for the carb, 600 cfm is enough. A typical 350 @100% VE (volumetric
efficiency) at best uses approx. 550 cfm @5500rpm. And that's at 100%
VE, which rarely is achieved unless you have an amazing flow bench in
your shop. So lets say that at best you are running 80-85% VE, which
yields 510 cfm usage. I would gestimate that the 600 cfm is more than
enough. Too much carb and you begin to flood the engine. Stay with the
600 and put the money into better head flow and gearing/tires. You will
see more of an improvement that way.

Fernando Proietto
A/Manager
Systems Analyst - Informatics Division
Environment Canada
Atmospheric Environment Branch - Ontario Region
4905 Dufferin St. 
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: 	EDZX6[SMTP:EDZX6@aol.com]
> Sent: 	Monday, January 12, 1998 11:25 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Cc: 	EDZX6@aol.com
> Subject: 	72 Cutlass problems
> 
> To anyone that can help:
> 
> First I like to say that I'm new on the list and I'm enjoying it very
> much.  I
> have a couple of questions.  
> 
> My 72 Cutlass has hooker comp headers and they are about 1 1/2 yrs
> old. The
> rearmost exhaust pipe on the driver side header has develop a crack
> that is
> working its way all around the pipe.  My first thought was that maybe
> I broke
> an engine mount and the twisting force of the engine cause a stress
> fracture
> but, the mounts are good and I did replace them a year ago.  A friend
> of mine
> advised me to use solid mounts vice the rubber mounts normaly used.
> Is this a
> good idea and could it solve the problem? I hate to buy another pair
> of
> headers and ruin them too. 
> 
> My second question is about the carb.  At the present time the car has
> a
> holley 600 cfm double pumper w/holley alum intake, crane cam, double
> roller
> timing chain, HEI (w/adv kit) MSD 6al ignition, headers w/flowmasters,
> elec
> fuel pump, elec fans, and the car is a 350 cid .030 over w/a 4 spd
> tranny 3:23
> posi.  I hope all this details help to answer this simple question, IS
> THIS
> CARB TOO SMALL??? I'm being told that what I need is a 750 cfm double
> pumper.
> Is this true or are they just trying to take my money at the
> performance
> shop?? At the present time I'm getting around 14.79 et's at the strip.
> Is this
> about right?
> 
> Thank you all for any info that my help me 
> Eddie 72 Culass S Conv
> EDZX6@aol.com  
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 18:21:37 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: FS: 70 442 convertible

Hi all.  There's a guy at work who, like me, just moved down to Miami. 
I accidently overheard his conversation with someone else about selling
his car.  I couldn't help it, All I heard "70 Olds 442 convertible".  He
has a 44K original mile 70 442 convertible.  He said he's wanting to
sell it to buy a boat.  Wasn't able to talk to him long.  Price seems
reasonable too, $5K I THINK!  Anyway, I have way too many Olds toys
right now, so if you are interested, give Joe Patterson a call at
305-453-9155 for more details.  The car is in storage in NJ, in case
anyone is wondering.  It's white with black interior/top and has the
original drivetrain, dualgate, sport wheel.  Needs a little TLC and a
new decklid (some rust).  That's about all he told me today.  Just
thought if anyone was interested.....

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 18:34:42 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: transmission ID and swap

> Next question, assuming it did come out of
> 70 442 ... does this transmission bolt onto
> a 1969 Cutlass S 350ci ... or 1 1966 442 400ci.
> 
No, it did NOT come from a 70 442.  It would have been "70 OG" or "OW" 
"PA" must be Pontiac code.  The bellhousing to engine pattern will
match, no problem.  But is the tailshaft housing 4" long?  a.k.a.
"shortshaft".  If it is, it will bolt in the 69 like it belonged there. 
Even if it is a little longer, it will work if you shorten the
driveshaft.  Shouldn't affect pinion to driveshaft angle dramatically.

I'm assuming it is a TH400, since that was the only auto trans for the
442 in 1970, and the way the "tag" reads.  That said, the 350 Cutlass
more than likely has a TH350.  This means that you'll need to change the
yoke on the front shaft to a bigger one for the TH400 as well as
shortening the shaft (correct me if I'm wrong fellas, but I think the
TH400 is longer than a comparable TH350)  Of course, I'm only
speculating here.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 19:03:49 -0500
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: low oil pressure

At 09:09 AM 1/13/98 -0500, you wrote:
To all list members

        This is a very common problem with the TRW oil pumps. In the last 6
months
three friends have lost all the bearings in there fresh engines using a TRW
oil pump. They are junk. The only success we've had is using the Melling
STD. oil pump with (1- 2) 1/4 in washers shimming the pressure spring to
increase pressure to 70 lbs cold idle and about 35 lbs hot idle. These are
acceptable figures. This will also keep you from using a high volume pump
which requires restrictor kits in the mains and a big oil pan. HV oil pumps
are just a band aid for any Olds engine with oiling problems, other than a
very hot street car or full tilt race car. Anything below 20 lbs at idle
could cause starvation of the main and rod bearings. This is not a cheap
problem to have. Normally it is said that there should be at least 10 lbs of
oil pressure for every 1000 RPM above idle. So all of you running that
engine around the 6000 RPM range should have about 60 lbs of oil pressure to
keep from hurting it severely. Just my $.02.

Jim Chermack
 

>I have a 70 olds 350 that has been rebuilt. we replaced the oil pump
>with a stock trw pump, at idle in drive with the car fully warmed up at
>600 rpms im getting only 15 pounds of oil pressure, in drive at 850 rpms
>im getting about 18 pounds of oil pressure on the highway iget about 40
>psi.
>
>My question is the oil pressure to low ?
>
>what should the stock oil pressure be?
>
>i do not want to blow up this motor, Doug Bennitt
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 19:12:49 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Stall problems

Joe Gerschutz wrote:

Hmm...could be any number of things.  First of all, I'd check out the
operation of the automatic choke--if it's only coming on partially, then
the mixture will be too lean to run the cold engine.  What about the
heater ducting that runs from the exhaust manifold to the bottom of the
breather assembly?  Is it intact?  If not, then the choke could be
staying on too long, and running too rich, which will cause it to stall
out when the engine is semi-warm.  Check out the choke thermostat,
too...if it's all shot to s**t, the choke won't operate very well.

If it's not carburetor problems, do an everyday tune-up;  plugs, wires,
dist. cap, etc...temperature changes cause the expansion and contraction
of all materials, primarily conductive metals, and this could be just
enough to break any fine connections....(you said the car was McGyver'd,
right?)  How does the car run when you first start it?  Does it cough,
chug, miss (and lots of other happiness) when you first start it, or
does it run fine, and then die suddenly?

I'd lay odds that it's a carb problem, but I've been wrong before...

- ------------------------------------------ 
S. Dave Ward  (mailto:ward@ptbo.igs.net)

'78 Delta 88 Royale (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 R.B.   (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC Sierra 4x4  (305 TBI)

(Ennismore, Ontario, CANADA)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 18:24:05 +0000
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Are these good prices?

8.5" 3.73 gears (new)---------$125
8.5" GM posi (rebuilt)--------$175

Are these good prices? I'm attending the Toledo Swap Meet this weekend
and taking my checkbook with me.

I really want Posi, but the gears are not a necessity.

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 19:21:28 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: engine stutter, and anifreeze smell

Scourge wrote:
> 
> I have an 87 olds Calais, V6 102,000 miles, it has started loosing power at
> crusing speeds like 60 or 65, it almost sputters after a while everything is
> fine, but no matter how long you drive it if you turn it off and on again it
> will keep on doing this till you go for a while, the engine does not cut
> off, but it's like taking your foot of the peddle.  also a new thing just
> started where i smell anti-freeze in the heat,  any ideas?

It wouldn't surprise me if you have a heater core going...(Greg B. is
groaning right now).  Have you changed the coolant lately?  Most
name-brand coolants have corrosion inhibitors in them, but they break
down after a number of years.  Has your coolant level changed at all
recently?  Is the passenger side floormat ever damp at all (with A/F)?  

If Murphy's law is in effect here, the heater core will finally go VVK
during a deep-freeze, likely when you're miles from home.  My advice is
to check this out fairly quickly, because having no heat on the cold
mornings really sucks...

- ----------------------------------------- 
S. Dave Ward  (mailto:ward@ptbo.igs.net)

'78 Delta 88 Royale (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 R.B.   (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC Sierra 4x4  (305 TBI)

(Ennismore, Ontario, CANADA)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 16:30:16 -0800
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Power seat Drive Cable

I began fixing the power seat on my '84 H/O two weekends ago (meant to try
to fabricate/rig something up this last weekend, but it was
nose-hair-freezing weather and my dad's big block chevy that's sardined in
there with my car refused to start, so I couldn't even get *in* my car).

Anyhow, after much knuckle scraping and saying of 4 letter words aimed
mostly at the GM engineers I found the culprit.  (I have the '84 Fisher
body manual, it says to get to the power seat mech. first put the seat all
the way back to remove the front bolts, then forwards to remove the rear
bolts.  Thanks a lot.  If the seat moved I wouldn't *need* to get at the
power seat mechanism now would I!??!).

GM has discontinued the part in '92 and the parts guy wouldn't give me the
part number so I could look elsewhere.  I need the horizontal drive cable,
right side.  If anyone has a spare one of these lying around, maybe in a
parts car, I'd *really* like to take it off your hands.  I'm not looking
forwards to fighting another immobile power seat in subzero temps at the
boneyard.  The piece is about 3" long overall, with a black plastic
cylinder in the middle which holds the drive cable that sticks out about
3/4" on either end.  The drive cable looks a lot like speedo cable, with
square ends right between 1/8 and 3/16" in diameter.

TIA!

- --
Tom Lentz, tlentz@ior.com                        '84 Hurst/Olds #2118
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz                       '78 Cutlass Supreme
Network Admin, CPM Corp, Spokane, WA.            '78 Chev 1/2ton (Olds 350)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 18:44:28 -0600
From: "M.J.Chapman" <chapman1@midwest.net>
Subject: Mime-Version: 1.0

unsubscribe chapman1@midwest.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 08:36:02 -0500
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: rear end noise

At 11:53 PM 1/12/98 EST, you wrote:
>68 Cutlasss S conv has what sounds like tire noise in the rear, seems like
>more rear right. Increases with speed, frequency with the tire revolution. I
>first thought it was tire or wheel messed up, but recently replaced tires and
>new wheels. Could this be a bent axle? No scraping or whining sound, no
>squeeks. Sounds similiar to going over pavement cracks but quicker. Any
ideas?

Sounds like a rough axle bearing.  Does the noise change if you turn the
car to either side on a straight road, does the noise change?   Usually
whatever side you're putting force on has the bad bearing (eg, if you
swerve right and the noise increases, the left bearing is noisy).



- --> Bob Valentine
- --> ravalent@liii.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 20:17:35 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: engine stutter, and anifreeze smell

Dave Ward wrote:

> If Murphy's law is in effect here, the heater core will finally go VVK
> during a deep-freeze, likely when you're miles from home.  My advice is
> to check this out fairly quickly, because having no heat on the cold
> mornings really sucks...

My cold mornings aren't as cold as yours, but I've been there....

Got to the point, I said screw it, since the car can't make heat, got me
some gloves, a cup of coffee and a heavy jacket....  Rolled the windows
down, and PRAYED the windows didn't frost back over
- -- 
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
- - Here we go Steelers!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 20:33:38 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Sticking/frozen door seals

Andrew
 Living in Detroit area we experience much the same cold weather.
I've found luck with either spraying silicone on weatherstripping or on
extreme cases a light coat of dielectric grease will also keep the stuff
from sticking.  Just don't touch the door with your tongue to see if
the weather is cold enough to make your seals stick....

Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1055
*********************************

