To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1059


oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, January 15 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1059



FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro
Back from Christmas break
Re: NON-Expiring registration for Michigan
Re: What Can Go Wrong
Ignitions
Re: What Can Go Wrong-Driveshafts
Re: What Can Go Wrong
NOS quarters
Re: NON-Expiring registration for Michigan
69 grilles question
Re: 69 grilles question
Edelbrock Heads / FRAME
Oldsmobile program on TV
Quite Some Stories
Re: What Can Go Wrong
Re: What Can Go Wrong
Re: NON-Expiring registration for Michigan
Re: Oldsmobile program on TV
Re: What Can Go Wrong
Blinking head lights
69 442 Bumper
Re: Oldsmobile program on TV
Re: 69 grilles question
centinel
Re: 1970 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
Re: What could go wrong?
Re: What Can Go Wrong
Re: What Can Go Wrong
Re: What Can Go Wrong
Re: Drum to Disc
Re: Oldsmobile program on TV
Intake Wanted...
Re: Oldsmobile program on TV
Re: What Can Go Wrong
Re: What Can Go Wrong-Driveshafts
Non-Olds
Re: 69 4-4-2 parts for sale
Re: NON-Expiring registration for Michigan
Re: Oldsmobile program on TV

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 15:12:13 -0500
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro

                                          C&M Classic Parts
                       1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                                (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
                                         <chermac@exis.net>

Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm,  Sat 9:00 am - 6:00 pm,  Sunday Closed
*We accept all major Credit Cards. VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and Discover.*
Lots of new reproduction parts will be coming out in January-March 98.

        66 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $1795.00
        67 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $995.00
        66 & 67 Track Pac kits (complete, just like the dealer option includes;
        shroud, ducts, hoses, cam/lifters, battery accessories) Mar/Apr 98.
                **** Items with an ** are 10% off thru Jan 98.

New reproduction parts:
Vinyl Dash Overlays (makes your wood dash areas look like carbon fiber)
$50.00 set

Lifetime Guarantee on all correct bead window felts  $92.00 set (inner & outer)
66-67 2 dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (correct bead type)
68-72 2 dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (not Supreme Coupes, correct bead)

Replacement Window Felts (Flat type)  $60.00 set (inner & outer)
64-72 Cutlass/442 (state year and model)

Glove Box Liners
64-67 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
68-69 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
70-72 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99

Qrt Seals
70-72 Cutlass Supreme & Conv Qtr End seals  $13.00 pr

Hood Liners
64-65 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
66 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
67 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
68-70 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner (wclips)  $18.00
70-72 Cutlass Supreme Hood Liner (w/clips)  $18.00

Liner Clips
Round Clips  $1.00 ea
Square Clips  $1.00 ea

A-Arm Shields
68-72 Upper A-Arm dust shields  $14.99 pr

3M Stripe Kits
68 W-36 Stripe Kits (white, black, red)  $55.00 pr

New Parts:
Small Block Cylinder Heads ª 5 (68-69) $200, 7 (71) $145, 7a (72) $145
Big Block Cylinder Heads  B (66) $275, G (71) $150,
H (71 W-30) $1500, Ga (72 W-30) $750
68 2 bbl Air Cleaner (complete w/heat tube)  $40.00
68-69 Jetaway Trans (very low miles, not a switchpitch)  $90.00
67 Cutlass Hood Chrome Spear (no pits, decent chrome) $45.00
64-68 4 Spd Console Top Plate and Door (fair to good cond, w/good boot)  $50.00
64-66 Master Cylinders (correct, rebuilt)  $43.50 ea
3&4 Spd. Pilot Bushing (Bronze) new  $7.50 ea
3&4 Spd. HD Roller Pilot Bearing new  $24.50 ea
83-87 Hurst/Olds&442 (N.O.S.) Exhaust System (complete)  $450.00
83-84 Hurst/Olds (N.O.S.) Lightning Rod Whiskers  $150.00
75 Omega Front Fenders (very nice pair)  $180.00 pr
75 Omega Bucket Seats (nice, maroon cloth)  $85.00 pr
65-67 400/425 Steel Crank (no pilot bushing hole, std)  $180.00
65-67 425 "D" Block std bore, small lifter bore  $150.00
350 Stick Cranks  $175.00 ea
(2) 66-67 442 "E" 400 cu in auto engine (apart, complete, std bore)  $600.00 ea
**64-67 Power Steering Bracket  $15.00
**64-67 Alternator Brackets (A/C car)  $20.00 set
**69 442 LH Grille (good cond)  $45.00
**69-72 4 Row Radiator Top Plate (nice)  $65.00
69-72 Ignition Switch (w/o tilt)  *new*  $24.00
69-72 Ignition Switch (w/tilt) *new*  $22.00
71 W-30 "TO" Code 10 bolt 3.73:1 anti-spin (date code '352 70') mint  $650.00
**70 LH/RH Hood "L" moldings (few small pits under side, nice) $95.00 pr
**70 442/SX/Rally 350 Rear Cutout Bumper (CORE)  $110.00
**70-72 Lower A/C Vents (for 8 Track car, mint, black)  $80.00 pr
**70-72 Dash Pad and Dash Plastic (radio area, green, mint)  $185.00
**67-68 Big Cars AM/FM Stereo (nice, works well)  $75.00
**69-72  Bench Seat Headrests (black, mint)  $45.00 pr
68-72 Arm Rest Pad Bases (rear, post coupe, black)  $20.00 pr
**68-72 Rear Defrost  (no switch)  $30.00
**69-72 Column Shift Steering Column (plain)  $45.00
**69-70 Console Shift Steering Column (non-tilt)  $95.00
64-72 Power Window Motors  (excellent cond) $50.00 ea
**70-72 455 Engine Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $40.00 pr
**68-72 350 Engine Mount (NEW, Made in USA)  $38.00 pr
**64-72 Jetaway/TH350, 4 Spd Trans Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $14.00
**67-72 TH400 Trans Mounts (NEW, made in USA)  $17.00 ea
(6) Hurst Wheels 14x6 (5 on 4 3/4) nice  $2300.00
70-75 Sport Steering Wheel (black, nice centers, complete)  $130.00 ea

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts 1964-1972 Cutlass/442
68-72+ TH Torque Converter Cover (Plastic, N.O.S.)  $31.00
**65 Cutlass/442 PO2 Deluxe Wheelcovers (N.O.S.)  $350.00
**66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
**68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
**69 Cutlass RH Grilles (N.O.S.) $85.00 ea
**70 Cutlass Supreme Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr
**70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
**71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr
**71-72 Stone Shields (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea
**71-72 Headlight Housings (plastic) (N.O.S.) $80.00 pr
**72 Cutlass Supreme & Hurst/Olds Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr

Used Parts:
64 Cutlass/442
**64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $50.00
**RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00
**Front Bumper Core  $50.00
**F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00

65 Cutlass/442
**64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $50.00
**65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  LH/RH rear $15.00 ea
65-(early) 66 Plain Full Wheel Covers (4, mint)  $30.00

66 Cutlass/442
**64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $50.00
**66 Cutlass Trunk Molding (very good)  $85.00
**66 Cutlass Tail Light Bezels (very good)  $85.00 pr
65-(early) 66 Plain Full Wheel Covers (4, mint)  $30.00
**66 Turbine Full Wheel Covers (4) good  $80.00 set
66 Cutlass/442 Side Chrome moldings (almost complete set) Inquire
**66 F-85/Cutlass grille (nice)   $55.00
**66 F-85/Cutlass grille (good)  $35.00
**66 330 cu in 2 bbl engine (complete w/trans, 17,000 original miles)  $300.00
**66-67 AM Radios (nice)  $30.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
**66 Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
**Post Coupe Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr
F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea

67 Cutlass/442
**67 4 spd Speedometer Adapter (3.42 gears & 4spd)  $45.00
67 Cutlass Plain Full Hubcaps (4, mint)  $30.00
**67 Plain Cutlass Holiday Hardtop interior door panels and rear sides (very
nice, blue/green) $85.00 set of 4
**67 Cutlass Jetaway Trans (low miles, w/switch pitch converter)  $100.00
66-67 Rear Side window lower U-seals (new, Metro Moulded)  $18.00 pr
**67 Cutlass Hood (mint)  $100.00
67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea
67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.50 ea
**66-67 AM Radios  (nice)  $30.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
**67 F-85 Rear Bumper (very good condition)  $75.00
**67 Front Bumper (straight, core)  $70.00
**67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $50.00 pr
67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $90.00 ea
67 442 Pie Tin Decal  $3.00
**67 RH Fender (small metal patch panel, straight)  $165.00

68 Cutlass/442
**68-69 Cutlass/442 Post Coupe LH Door  $85.00
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
68 Turn Signal Lens (mint)  $12.00 ea
**68 Cutlass Rear Bumper (core)  $75.00
**68-69 14x6 SSII Wheels (set of 5)  $200.00
68 AM Radio  $25.00
**68  8-Track Unit (housing cracked, needs plastic one)  $65.00
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00
Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00
68 Air Cleaner Stove Pipe (pipe only)  $10.00
**68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $40.00 ea
68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea
**68-72 B-Pillar Molding Sets (black, mint) $27.50 pr

69 Cutlass/442
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
**69 Rallye Pack (Gauge side only)  $75.00
**69 Cutlass RH Grille (nice, used)  $40.00
**69 442 RH Grille (nice) $50.00
**69 Cruise Control Switch and Bezel  $25.00
**69 Radiator Core Support 3 Row (mint, no rust holes)  $150.00
**69 Tail Light Bezels (nice, pit free)  $135.00 pr
**69 Trunk Lid (Conv, nice)  $175.00
**69 Headlight Bezels  $60.00 pr
**69 Lower Dash (radio area)  (nice)  $35.00
69 C/S Side Moldings (mint, no pits)  $15.00 ea
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $135.00
**69 Cutlass/442 Doors 2 dr Hardtop (mint pair)  $200.00 pr / $110.00 ea
**69-72 Hood Hinges  $40.00 pr
**69-70 "S" Hood Louver Chrome  $25.00 pr
**69-70 "S" Hood Louver Moldiings  $25.00 pr
68-72 Windshield Molding Sets  $45.00 set
68-72 Fastback Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set
**69-72 Floor Shift Steering Column (very good)  $95.00
69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
**69 RH Fender (small nickel sized hole)  $200.00
**69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $55.00 ea
69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $25.00 ea

70 Cutlass/442
**70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
**70 Std Auto console neutral safety switch w/bracket  $65.00
70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
**70 FLAT Fender RH (small metal patch panel installed nice)  $300.00
70 Cutlass Supreme Door Panels (black mint) 4 for $100.00
**70 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
**70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (excellent)  $115.00
70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
70-72 455 Std. Iron intake manifold (auto cars)  $55.00
70-72 Std. Auto Console Shift Lens  (repro)  $23.00 ea
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea
70 F-85 Horn Button (cheap style wheel, excellent)  $10.00
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00
69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00
**69-70 "S" Hood Chrome Vents  $25.00 pr
**69-70 "S" Hood Vent Moldings  $25.00 pr
**70 "S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr
**70 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $90.00
**70-72 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
**70-72 RH Fender (has small patch panel)   $185.00
70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens   $17.00 ea
70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens  $23.00 ea

71 Cutlass/442
**70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
**70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
**71-72 Power Window Switches (nice)  $25.00 (4) button,  $10.00 singles
**71-72 Fender RH (small metal patch in bottom)  $185.00
71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
**71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
**70-72 C/S LH/RH Side Glass  $25.00 ea
**71 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr

72 Cutlass/442
**70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
**70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
**71-72 Power Window Switches (nice)  $25.00 (4) button,  $10.00 singles
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00
**71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
**72 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 13:48:08 -0500
From: Andy Geeting <geetinag@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu>
Subject: Back from Christmas break

Hey everyone,
     I just got back from Christmas break and finally had a chance to sign
back onto the list. I know back before Christmas there were a lot of people
talking about the difference between the Salon and the Supreme models. I
remember someone giving an option code that would tell if you had the 442
suspension package. Well after I signed of that day I went home and just
out of curiosity looked in the trunk of my Cutlass Supreme and low and
behold it had "F41"!! Wow, I was surprised to see this. I mean I know it
doesn't make it handle like a corvette or anything but this finally sheds
some light on why my car has such tight steering and more road feel and
response as compared to the Classic Brougham. The Classic Brougham handles
like a boat, you turn the wheel and five seconds later the car responds.
Although I'm going to replace most of suspension with Hotchkis parts it was
still pretty neat to find out.
     Talk to you all later!

Andy Geeting
'87 Cutlass Supreme
'88 Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham
'74 Delta 88 convertible
'78 Caprice wagon
'36 Plymouth coupe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 13:26:18 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: NON-Expiring registration for Michigan

> If you get a plate the same year as your car, you can apply for an
> "Authentic" registration.  It's a ONE-TIME $35.00 fee!  No yearly tabs
> It's the ETC that excites me.  Just what is the legal definition of "etc"
> anyway?  My definition is JOY RIDING!
>
  The cop(s) had no idea of this "new
> law" and let me go while scratching their heads.  :)

Damn...  One more reason I ~should~ have taken the job in Mich...  Do
the "authentics" have to be over 25 yrs too?
               Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
        Sidney Montana

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 14:43:38 -0600
From: Robin <webmaster@robinsfyi.com>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong

Any thing that can go wrong will...

I think some cars have 9 lifes, just like cats.

Poor Putt-Putt R.I.P ('68 442)

She lived a hard life. (no fault of her own)

1. One cold rainy day durning rush hour, you are driving in heavy
traffic. You see a yellow light, you touch the breaks. Than you see the
redlight, that is the one on the dash. Brake system failure, at least
the horn worked. Everyone gets out of the way. Next stop break shop.

2. You wake up for work, there is snow on the ground. You run out and
start the car so that it will be warm when you are ready to leave.
After having that extra mug of java, you are read to leave. Only the car
has a different idea. Hot warning light is on. Can we say "Frozen Solid"

3. Driving down the hi-way toward the river, just one more curve, and
bridge and you are home. Oh Sh@ª!!! You are in a full spin, cross two
lanes and end up in the middle facing the wrong way. Next morning new
tires. Ones with tread.

4.You are sleeping in, you hear the rain. Than someone comes banging on
the door. As you wonder who in the world it could be, you open the door.
A drenched man asks you if that is your car. You look down to see that
it is flooding, water is up to the tail pipes, and climbing fast. Nice
stranger moves car to high gorund.

Trust me there were at least 5 more.


Much older, and much wiser

Robin

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 12:56:16 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Ignitions

     Hey folks, thanks for the ignition information! As soon as I can
figure out the wiring scheme, I'm going to put a Mopar box in one of
the cars, triggered by the points. I might even get an MSD for one or
two of the 'fleet' :)
     Till the next digest, bye!

===
John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

65 Delta 88 2dr    70 Cutlass S 2dr       72 Cutlass conv
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31       72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr   70 442 W30 conv        72 442 W30 conv
70 Cutlass S 2dr   71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 16:04:33 -0600
From: "Tracy H. Shires" <twodogs@ou.edu>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong-Driveshafts

>> What has threatened your life or been an --in retrospect- funny story?

>


Has anybody but me lost a driveshaft while flying down the interstate?

This happened to me 4 monthes ago..


I had just gotten my new hipo 200r4 and the 3.73 gears put in and I decided to
run up to my place in OK.. I was in Tx at the time. About halfway there one of
those large f*rd econlines vans passed me 100+..Well I could let that go
unchallanged. I put the foot to the floor, hit third, wrapped 5300 rpm passed
the van, let off the throttle-shifted fourth... Then BOOM.., I look In my
rearview mirror to see the van dodging 1/2 my driveshaft going end over end..
(actually a funny site-The tow 60 miles back wasn't though)


Has anyone else had a problem with the stock driveshafts? I'm nervous everytime
I downshift now... Or is it my cursed luck, hehe







T. H. Shires81 C/S/B Rckt 350

mailto:TwoDogs@ou.edu


<bold>University of Oklahoma

</bold><italic><color><param>0000,0000,ffff</param>Aerospace
Engineering

</color><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param>Mechanical Engineering

</color></italic>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 16:58:01 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong

>Threatening the health of you and your passengers:
>
[snip of things I've been lucky to avoid]

The life-threatening "adventures" have been things that I've been spared of
by a matter of minutes. I've already shared my "left axle in the rearview
mirror" story, but I don't know if I included the fact that I had just been
driving the '68 Caprice on the highway at about 75-80mph. As it was, the
axle let go as I was pulling away from a stoplight <whew!>

I've also tended to go over the suspension and braking systems of the older
cars I buy pretty thoroughly; especially after I saw what the brake fluid
on my '60 Catalina looked like when I got around to doing a brake job (the
fluid I had been driving around with for a year and a half looked like
strawberry yogurt!). So, I've been able to catch the missing cotter pins,
loose lug nuts, slashed tires, etc., before they've killed me (well,
obviously, since this isn't a letter from the grave...).

>Annoying and inconvenient, but can lead to interesting stories:
 [snip]
>8) Intermittent noises and smells

I'm always on the lookout for any unusual odors from my cars, so when I
smell oil, gas, or something burning, I've always got to determine whether
it's from my car, or from something else that's on the road in my
proximity. Never blown up or burnt down, though...

I have had some interesting "insect" encounters. My friend gave me a ratty
old '76 Monte that had been sitting in his driveway for about two years. I
got it running, and took it down to the gas station for a fillup; while I'm
washing the windows, I notice a yellowjacket, then another, and another: a
whole swarm coming out of the front fender! Rolled up the windows, and
sprayed them out of there right away (only time the first repair I did to a
car involved a can of Raid!).

Another time, I inherited a '79 Plymouth Horizon; again, it has been
sitting a couple years waiting for me to drive it. Once I get it on the
road again, I begin to notice some "flaky" material coming from the dash
vents, and in the dashboard vicinity in general. I come to find out that a
few years earlier, my mom had taken the car grocery shopping, and when she
came home was upset that the clerks at the store had forgotten to put a
melon she had purchased into the bags. It turns out that the melon *was* in
the bags, but had rolled out and wedged itself in behind the rear seat. The
colony of maggots that eventually took up residence in the dashboard must
have died out over the intervening years, leaving some very dried-up
"archaeological remains"... :p

It cleared up after a couple weeks driving with the windows down; I would
tell my passengers that the car had "dandruff".

>What has threatened your life or been an --in retrospect- funny story?

I must have repressed those memories, as I'm sure there are things I'm
forgetting...
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 17:25:04 EST
From: Convcutl69 <Convcutl69@aol.com>
Subject: NOS quarters

2 pair NOS 70-72 Olds 442&conv. quarters$2200 a pair or both pair $3900. Call
after 5pm. 765 453 0414 Elgin IL

    Thought I'd pass along add run in Elgin Courior news in case anyone was
interested
Mike W

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 17:17:01 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: NON-Expiring registration for Michigan

<Do the "authentics" have to be over 25 yrs too?>

To the best of my knowledge YES.  The "Authentic" registration is listed in
the "Antique Vehical" brochure from the state.  MI law states a car must be
25 years or older to be considered a antique.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
1995 Achieva S

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 17:51:31 EST
From: Convcutl69 <Convcutl69@aol.com>
Subject: 69 grilles question

Need to know if the grilles for the 69 S are the same as for the Supreme. Your
response is greatly appreciated. Thanks
Mike    W
69 S Conv. Hurst wannabee

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 18:54:05 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 69 grilles question

> Need to know if the grilles for the 69 S are the same as for the Supreme. 
Your
> response is greatly appreciated. Thanks

Yes.  Couldn't say that for 70 though.....

If you want to have a 69 H/O wannabe, then you would need 442 grilles
though.  The headlight housing should be all black for the H/O, except
for the surrounding thin edge, which should remain silver.  The 442's
had the  flat area insert just around the headlights black.  The rest
was silver.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 19:39:51 -0500
From: George S Case <gpcase@compuserve.com>
Subject: Edelbrock Heads / FRAME

- -------------Forwarded Message-----------------

From:   George S Case,
To:     OLDSMOBILE LIST, INTERNET:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

Date:   01/15/98 10:19 PM

RE:     Edelbrock Heads

I have been reading all the information about the new Edelbrock heads and
was
very excited about them until I read that they require the tall valve
covers. Most of the catalogs that I have state that tall valve covers will
not work with power brakes or power steering. I have a '70 Olds 442 that
has both power steering and power brakes. What are my options. I am in the
middle of a frame off restoration and now would be a good time to switch
heads if I am going to do it.


Last question. The frame is all done but I was thinking about welding a
piece of steel to the center of the frame to make it boxed like the rest of
the frame. I want to race the car once in a while and i thought it couldn't
hurt to give some extra strength to the frame. I am not worried about
originallity because the engine has already been modified.

The body is currently being dipped at a place in Mass. and then it is off
to the body shop.

Thanks for any help


George Case
Manchester, NH
gpcase@compuserve.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 19:48:00 -0500
From: "John Richmond" <richmond@tir.com>
Subject: Oldsmobile program on TV

Cars & Parts TV will be airing an episode of their program about the
Oldsmobile
centennial. For those of you who get Speedvision the program will be on
three times
this coming week.  Sunday 1-18-98 @ 9:30am,  Monday 1-19-98 @ 8:30am
and Thursday 1-22-98 @ 6:30pm.
Sounds like it should be a good program.

John Richmond
richmond@tir.com   or   jwr10@chrysler.com
Warren, MI
72 442/455

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 16:50:34 -0800
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Quite Some Stories

Are the rest of you having as much fun as me reading the stories thread?

This is exactly what I was trying to foment.

Enjoy!
cf

PS: Did I tell you about the time I lost that fuel pump and got a ride from
three drunk guys in a pinto? When we were doing 55 or so on a dirt frontage
road along I-5, the driver pulled the gear shift lever fromt he tranny just
for
grins. Since the boot was long since deteriorated, I was treated to the sight
of the ground running underneath. Then the guy goes  "Wanna beer man?"

Uh -- no thanks, rather sit here quietly terrified and wondering about Blood
Alcohol Levels.

Got the car running with a universal electric pump wired to an unswitched
source. When I got home about 8 hours late, I was so tired I just snipped
 the wire to shut the car off.  The end.
Christian Fair

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 16:53:25 -0800
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong

Going down the wet freeway after it snowed behind the obligatory
jacked-up-ford-truck-with-no-mudflaps, kicking up so much mud I can't see.
Wipers just smear it around, hit the washers.  Nothing.  Hit 'em again,
notice steam coming out from under the hood.  Huh?  Pull over to discover the
wiper arm had worn through where the hose attahes to the nozzles and it was
squirting nicely onto the exhaust manifold.

Cruising home nicely.  Truck cuts me off, hit brakes.  Now it's clear, hit
the cruise control resume button.  Nothing.  Huh?  Press it again.  Hear a
faint click and smoke starts coming out of the column.  Turn it off, pull over
to make sure nothing is on fire, pull the extinguisher out of trunk and keep
it by my side the rest of the trip :-)

In Oregon, in the Columbia gorge, a desert.  I'm 40 miles past a tiny little
truck stop, 75 miles to the nearest city (which is not on my way home).
Blowout!  No prob, get out spare.  Put bicycle-tire-sized spare on rear, and
make it about 20 feet before I realize that this just won't work with a posi
and two different size rear tires.  Fine, swap good front with rear, put
spare on front.  At this point I'm VERY glad that I didn't get larger tires
in the rear.  Did I mention the 50 mph winds buffeting the car which was
balanced precariously on the factory jack rooted in gravel?  At this point
I see the small printing on the compact spare tire saying not to use this
for more than 50 miles.  Decide to press my luck and attempt the 75 miles to
Hermiston, make it into town at 6:00 on a Sunday afternoon, pull into the
service station just as it's closing and convince him to sell me a used
tire.  Whew!

- --
Tom Lentz, tlentz@ior.com                        '84 Hurst/Olds ª2118
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz                       '78 Cutlass Supreme
Network Admin, CPM Corp, Spokane, WA.            '78 Chev 1/2ton (Olds 350)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 21:00:34 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong

Aside from the endless round of blowing rad hoses on the Delta, etc.,
I've had a few interesting experiences. None life-threatening, but
interesting nonetheless:

1. Changed the in-carb gas filter on the Cutlass shortly after I bought
it. Got in, started the car. Hood was raised and I was sitting in the
driver's seat listening to the engine when I notice fog or something
coming from under the hood. Shut off the motor, go look: gas is
everywhere, a lake on top of the intake, slowly dripping down onto the
exhaust manifolds as it overflows from the top of the engine. Resolve
never to touch gas filter again.

2. My old '64 Buick convertible was a pretty reliable car but in the
summer of '95 it had a bad stretch: driving home from a car show on one
of the hottest days of the year, top down, on the freeway, all is well
with the world until I notice a trail of anti-freeze seeping out from the
hood-fender seam. Stop, see hose is gone. Hmm. No replacement available,
but I'm not far from home, so I risk it. A few blocks from home the hot
light comes on, I walk the rest of the way. Go back after a while, patch
things together, limp to garage. Then it gets better:

Rad plugged solid, so go for a recore. Oh, mitaswell replace the starter
solenoid while it's in the shop, been giving me problems. Couple of days
later, pick up car from shop, put down top, drive home. Another beautiful
day, put top down, all is well with the world. Get to spot where car died
earlier in week, rush hour traffic, stop at red light. Suddenly radio
stops, engine quits, car is dead. Hmmm. Try key a few times, nothing,
then notice white smoke coming from under hood. Other motorists in
traffic find this very interesting. Run to front, pop hood, almost
asphysxiated by dense white acrid smoke. See positive battery cable
*melting* like Three Mile Island. Suddenly hope entire car goes up in
flames; don't want to cope with repairing burned-out engine compartment.
Passersby help push car to curb; cute girls in car next to me at light
get huge laughs out of this.

Mechanic had rerouted battery cable incorrectly after replacing solenoid;
touched x-man, melted insulation, resultant short to ground melted cable
and toasted battery. Amazingly, rest of wiring survived. Shop picks up
tab for rollback, battery, cables, etc.

3. Around this same time Buick starts barfing left front hubcap with
amazing regularity. All measures tried to fix, none successful. Nothing
more damaging to your state of cool when driving convertibles than having
hubcaps pass you on street. Resort to carrying rubber mallet under front
seat. Eventually have to silicone cap to wheel.

4. Sell Buick.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 98 19:58:48 -0400
From: Mike Hall <oldsmike@flash.net>
Subject: Re: NON-Expiring registration for Michigan

RC Hellebuyck writes:
>As far as the law states, a car in MI with "Historical Vehicle" plates can
>only be driven to parades, shows, and club functions.
- -SNIP-

RC,

I have the "Authentic License Plate" on my 72' Cutlass S. I used a 1972
Mfg. plate and it cost me $35 bucks and is good for TEN years. You do NOT
use a sticker on this plate.

Requirements are: (Quote)
A historical vehicle must be:
- - more than 25 years old; and
- - owned solely as a collector's item; and
- - used only for historical club activities, parades, car shows, etc. A
designated historical vehicle may not be used for routine transportation.

It's pretty clear as to the intent, don't make your classic a daily
driver... Thank You Michigan for having this program!


Michael R. Hall: OCA ª17903                    Ortonville, Michigan
Hall Communications, LLC.
E-Mail: oldsmike@flash.net

1972 Cutlass S - 1987 '88' Custom Cruiser - 1991 '88' Royale Broughm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 20:11:22 -0500
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile program on TV

John Richmond wrote:
>
> For those of you who get Speedvision the program will be on
> three times
> this coming week.

Does anyone know if they have this on USSB or DirecTV satellite?

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 20:40:25 -0500
From: "Jason K. Adcock" <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong

I suppose I should put my plug in here.  Not to brag or anything, but the
Cutlass has been in for only ONE non-owner-induced problem.  I've caused
many.  :-)  I'll try to put them in chronological order.

Shortly after I got the car, I put new shocks on.  I went to Sears and
bought 4 Gabriel's.  I put them on the next day.  Shortly after, I heard a
loud clunking from the rear of the car.  I look under there and one of the
shocks' lower mounting bolts had come loose and was almost off.  A quick
fix, though.

I got new tires to replace the Goodyear Invicta GL whitealls.  Went with
Firestone Firehawks because of the cool look of the lettering.  It was
either these or Goodyear Eagle ST's (I hadn't really known about the BGF
Radial T/A's) and everyone with white letter tires had Eagle ST's.  I had
them installed and loved them for a few months.  More on that later.

Decided that trying to get throught the snow of Northern Virginia with a
peg-leg axle was not worth it.  Go to Rockville GM bone yard and pick up
and Pontiac 2.29:1 axle for $250.  Installation was a breeze (for the shop,
of course...$100 :-).  Nine or ten months later, the thing starts howling.
I had the whole d*nm thing rebuilt for around $200 more.  Now, a few months
ago, it starts leaking.  It looks like from the front pinion seal.  This
sucks.  I take it to the place that installed it (Dranesville Auto, a VERY
reputable shop...I take it there for everything) and was charged 17 bucks
for the wrong type fill plug.  Either the axle already was cursed or the
fly-by-night place that rebuilt it didn't know what they were doing.

The sound out of the stock muffler wasn't good enough, right?  So, I bought
an Edelbrock crossflow muffler to get a dual exhaust.  The pipe from the
cat to the muff was too long and hung down in front of the axle and looked
real cheezy.  I lived with this for a year or so and finally had it
replaced for a mere $44 at a local exhaust shop.  It was installed by
Midas.  I now know about their lack of attention to detail.  On the other
hand, when the car was in for brakes, they happened to find a few burst
wheel cylinders and charged me dearly for a complete brake system re-do
(what was I to do...besides, it stopped a WHOLE lot better after it was
done!).

After a year or so after the tires were installed, they started leaking.
They'd leak down to 10 or 15 psi and stay there until I'd air 'em back up
so they could leak again.  Took it back to the Firestone dealer to
supposedly get them fixed.  They did a good job and the tires stayed up for
a while, but they lost my lug nut key.  I went back the next day and they
bought me a new 1/2" set of locking lug nuts.  The car really takes a 12mm
nut, but I didn't know that, so those had to be replaced, by me, of
course.  Instead of getting new ones, I put the originals back on, so I
still want to buy some locking ones.

One of the rusted exhaust hangers broke last summer, so I replaced it with
a metal bracket fabricated by me.  I was real proud of myself for saving
money.  In mid-Ohio, on the way to Lansing, it broke and I rolled into
Michigan with a coat hanger for an exhaust hanger.  Midas docked me almost
$30 to fix it.  But, hey, I NEEDED it for the show, right?  :-)

Also last summer, I started hearing a clunk in the front end.  Both me and
my dad figured it was a sticking shock, so I planned to buy new ones.  Just
for kicks, I looked underneath and saw a broken driver's side sway bar end
link.  I took both off until I could get new ones and enjoyed the sensation
of driving an oil tanker for a day or so.

I decided that those end links were pretty stressed, so I sprung for a PST
polygraphite bushing kit.  I like it, but they squeak, soon to be fixed by
a little WD-40 I hope.

This winter, I decided to replace those dumb Firestones because one night
when I had to goto Wal-Mart for a little cold medicine, one of the tires
had about 5 pounds in it.  Interestingly, one of the tires was flat when I
went out to get the tires, so I dramatically rolled in on the doughnut!

And to finish it all off, the spark plug dilema of this past Christmas.  I
won't bore you with the details (I already did that about 2 weeks ago...),
but basically, after 4 or 5 plug changes, 1 wire change, 1 cap and rotor
change and a $192 tune-up, the thing hesitates at very partial throttle, so
I need to make use of the 12 month warranty they gave me and go bother them
again.

I've learned to leave well enough alone.  It's a lot less frustrating and a
WHOLE lot cheaper.  Hope you enjoyed my little story... 8-)
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 03:58:53 +0300
From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Subject: Blinking head lights

Trevor Lee wrote:

> Actually, while speaking about these two things, I've got a question.  In my
'76 > Monte, when I'm running with the high-beams on, after about 3-5 minutes
the lights > actually start to go out, specifically they will go out briefly 
and
come back on, <snip> > perfectly fine.

The reason for Your flashlight-phenomenon is the current limiting device that
will switch off the lights if it thinks they draw too much juice. Too much 
juice
would result from changing into halogen lights from "conventional" bulbs.

As this device is a thermal breaker, it will output some smell when operating.

The only real solution to this problem is to take the load out of that device.
Bypassing it would result in frying Your ignition switch..... Use relays.


- --
x----------------------------------------------------x
x Esko Ilola              mailto:esko.ilola@tele.fi  x
x                          phone:+358 2040 3439      x
x Oldsmobile 98 -64 4DHT  Holiday sports sedan       x
x "Where the action is...."                          x
x----------------------------------------------------x

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 04:57:57 -0500
From: "Kerr, Brian (R)" <kerrb@basf-corp.com>
Subject: 69 442 Bumper

I have found a rechromed 442 bumper for sale (with cutouts) in excellent
condition, and a rechromed fromt bumper that has been very slightly bent in
the center - easily straightened, but the bend caused the chrome to crack
and flake off in a couple of spots, therefore it needs rechroming.

What are these bumpers worth? Or how much should I offer for them? How much
are my some what bent and slightly rusty bumpers on the car worth as cores?

Looking forward to all replies

Brian Kerr
69 Cutlass conv (with bent and rusty bumpers)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 21:26:47 EST
From: CCRR12 <CCRR12@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile program on TV

Paul,

Speedvision is on DIRECTV ª306. You might double-check the air times from
John's post. Speedvision, like TNN, is infamous for changing their schedules.
For instance, Satellite Direct Magazine list times different than John's,
however his information is probably more current. Many times I have set the
VCR to record an auto program on TNN or Speedvision, then got 2 hours of
'Monster Trucks'.

Randy in Okla
57 88 J/2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 21:33:21 -0500
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 69 grilles question

At 05:51 PM 1/15/98 EST, you wrote:
Mike

        Yes they are the same.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts
(757)474-0869

>Need to know if the grilles for the 69 S are the same as for the Supreme. Your
>response is greatly appreciated. Thanks
>Mike    W
>69 S Conv. Hurst wannabee
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 21:45:49 EST
From: OldsGuyGA <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: centinel

   hey, sounds like cool show.. how would someone on ga recieve it on tv...


 olds guy ga

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 21:56:42 EST
From: TFX FLYER <TFXFLYER@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 1970 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

ya thats a good idea about scanning them,but i dont have a scanner.if i do
find a way to get it scanned ill send you ,and anyone that wants one. they are
pretty neat to look at, their in color and mostly pictures of the different
options. it even shows the
picture of the optional 8 track player .anyway hope all your projects come out
great.
ohh does anyone know the best way to beat the rust around my back window ,and
save my trunk with has just a little suface rust right now but always gets wet
because of the back window. thnxs tfx

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 22:05:15 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: What could go wrong?

Many moons ago (with four friends), worked for a tobacco farmer during
summer break from high school. Was only 15 years old but bought a 54
F*rd conv. for $65 for transportation to work. great car; top was
always down because of three foot sq. hole. Two tractor mufflers, no
tailpipes, pass. side door always flew open on a hard left hand turn,
etc, etc.
One day on the way home from work (dirt road), coming up to a small
bridge with room for one car, and a pickup coming from the other
direction. We're doing 80 and the brakes aren't so hot, so I decide
I'm going to cross the bridge first. Of course it didn't work that way
and I had to exit the road to the right to avoid a head on. The car
hits; it's all swamp and the mud comes over the windshield and covers
the guys in the back. We start to sink. We go down and down, and just
when we thought we would lose the car it stops. We're up to the door
handles. Well this isn't so bad. Hop over the side and keep going.
Manage to grab the door handle before I sink out of site. It turns out
the car came to rest on a sunken tree.
Got a farmer with a big tractor to pull us out. The clutch was sitting
on the floorboards and the car is 500 pounds heavierbut got the car
started in 3rd gear and drove it home that way. Avoided stopping at
stop signs and coasted in to driveway and shut it off. Buddy bought a
58 Poncho to get us to work the next day. $50 for that one.
So then there was the bosse's babysitter, his brand new Poncho, the 48
and; well, that's another story.

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S convertible
OCAª 29770
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 22:04:12 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong

Timothy A. Churchill wrote:

> No, but I had a lower ball joint on my Feeble Italian Attempt at
Transportation > give up the ghost at 65 mph in the fast lane, releasing the
driver's side > front wheel from its bonds, and causing the the car and I -- 
top
down natch -- > to become one with the guard rail.  This happened on a Friday
afternoon; the > day before my girlfriend at the time and I broke up on rather
bad terms, so > all in all it wasn't the very best start to a weekend.

Don't feel bad...  The day I wrecked my Buick, I called while laughing,
and said "Remeber that big dent in the driver's quarter panel????  I got
rid popped it back out, sorta"  Then told her I made both sides equally
crunched...  We broke up the day after too...  <G>
- --
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
- - Here we go Steelers!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 22:08:20 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong

JR wrote:

> fuel all over the hot engine compartment. My first indication of a
> problem was the orange fireball that rolled up the back window. I
> hastily pulled over and promptly extinguished the fire with the only
> liquid I had available, a half-full bottle of Coke.

Which I had thought of that when my Buick had electical burn smoke
flowing freely from under the hood...  Like I said, my best friend went
for an extuiguisher, I pulled the wire off the battery impatiently...
Needless to say, I run all positive wires UNDER the hood bumpers IF I
HAVE TO RUN them near the hood anyway! <G>
- --
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
- - Here we go Steelers!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 22:11:34 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong

Robin wrote:

> 4.You are sleeping in, you hear the rain. Than someone comes banging on
> the door. As you wonder who in the world it could be, you open the door.
> A drenched man asks you if that is your car. You look down to see that
> it is flooding, water is up to the tail pipes, and climbing fast. Nice
> stranger moves car to high gorund.

My poor 77 II saw the same thing...  Only mine went up to the door edges
on the bottom, flooding the carpeting...  No high ground in sight...  I
stood there with a "Dixie" cup throwing water outta the car as fast as I
could...  Thought I'd be SMART, and punched about 10 holes in the floor
board.  Not a GOOD idea when it's still raining, and gaining steam...
It was one wet car for a while...  And stunk too...
- --
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
- - Here we go Steelers!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 20:09:54 -0700
From: Gary Manton <sasgmm@unx.sas.com>
Subject: Re: Drum to Disc

Christian,

Thank you very much for the info, if you still have the directions, I would
greatly appreciate it.  I am new to this and looking at my options.

G


At 09:29 PM 1/13/98 -0800, you wrote:
>Gary,
>Not totally sure on this one, but on my '66 98 the swap cost about $700 or
>so, though I think there
>are ways to do it much cheaper. Your key concern is whether or not the
>spindles from a 69-70
>could fit or be modified to fit your a-arms. I think these changed from 64
>to 65, but maybe not.
>
>If they are common from 64-66, you can follow the directions I've posted
>here before. If you need
>them, I can send 'em or perhaps someone saved them. Upshot is you're
>getting a better (and safer)
>braking system by upgrading to the 69-70 system, but you buy into the
>problem of finding 69-70 rotors
>which do not interchange with 71 and up. Also you'll need an adjustable
>proportioning valve to reduce
>pressure to the rears to balance the front/rear brake bias. Can't remember
>which are s'posed to lock
>up first for safety.
>
>Anyway ballpark is 700 bucks before any custom machining to fabricate a
>link between your a-arms
>and later spindles.
>
>Hope this helps.
>cf
>
>
>At 10:00 AM 1/11/98 -0700, you wrote:
>>Not totally satisfied with the braking on my '64 Olds Dynamic 88, and want
>>to consider switching out the drum brakes and going to disc.  What are your
>>suggestions?  Is it worth doing?  How much dinero?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>G
>>          \\|//
>>          (o o)
>>~~~~~~oOOo~(_)~oOOo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>>
>>Gary M. MantonSAS Institute
>>Business Solutions DivisionPhoenix, AZ  85012
>>(602) 265-1616 ext. 230 - voice        (602) 265-8585 - fax
>>(888) 982-4079 - Pager
>>
>>"In business as in life, your chances of being run over are doubled
>>if you stay in the middle of the road"
>>~~~~~~oooo~~~~~oooo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>>
>>
>Christian Fair
>
>
          \\|//
          (o o)
~~~~~~oOOo~(_)~oOOo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Gary M. MantonSAS Institute
Business Solutions DivisionPhoenix, AZ  85012
(602) 265-1616 ext. 230 - voice        (602) 265-8585 - fax
(888) 982-4079 - Pager

"In business as in life, your chances of being run over are doubled
if you stay in the middle of the road"
~~~~~~oooo~~~~~oooo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 20:15:02 -0700
From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile program on TV

Paul,

>John Richmond wrote:
>>
>> For those of you who get Speedvision the program will be on
>> three times
>> this coming week.
>
>Does anyone know if they have this on USSB or DirecTV satellite?

Speedvision is offered by one or the other (DirecTV I think) as part of the
Platinum Choice package.  It may be available ala carte, too.

Bob

- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         mailto://rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 98 22:22:54 -0400
From: Mike Hall <oldsmike@flash.net>
Subject: Intake Wanted...

Anybody out there got a 455 Performance Aluminum Intake that they would
like to sell? I would prefer a Performer but would look at other brands.
Sorry, no interest in cracked or broken examples. Please E-Mail me
directly. I do have a Performer RPM to trade for anyone who has an
interest...

Thanks,
Mike


Michael R. Hall: OCA ª17903                    Ortonville, Michigan
Hall Communications, LLC.
E-Mail: oldsmike@flash.net

1972 Cutlass S - 1987 '88' Custom Cruiser - 1991 '88' Royale Broughm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 22:21:23 EST
From: OldsGuyGA <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile program on TV

how could i get a video copy???
   olds guy ga

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 22:27:33 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong

Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> 4. Sell Buick.

I had a 77 Mustang II that was like this:

All within like a 4 month period...

1. Carb starts acting up, take car to shop, guy sweet talks me into a
new carb.
2. Rear end develops a slight leak, looked like rear wheel cylinder.
Replaced the rear    wheel cylinders 3 times before finally going to a
shop.
3. Shoulda had the front brakes done at the shop too, 2 weeks later I
get a wierd    grinding followed by a sharp jolt when stopping.  Toasted
Rotors, and pads.
4. Rear end leak now takes a bottle a month....
5. Starter quits starting...  the shop that did the replacement cracked
a rack seal...     Now the power steering leaks.
6. Told the rear end to screw itself, it can run without fluid!!  Bad
move..  Rear end    now vibrated and squeaked.
7. Tranny leak now results in tranny that likes Nuetral, no reverse, or
drive...      Finally quit transmitting at the tranny shop.
8. Timing belt goes on vacation...  New belt.
9. Starts leaking a quart of oil every two weeks, looked at it, replaced
valve cover...
10. Shoulda looked at the cam, lifters, and rockers...  Blew the rocker
arm clean out    it's factory position...  Liked the side of the head
better.
11. Timing REALLY stunk after sticking it back in...  Replaced timing
belt.
12. Picked up wierd skip at cruise speed (50-60)
13. LEAKED OIL REAL GOOD, from removing the valve cover 2X without
replacing the gasket.
14. Exhaust leak found...  Not good when the manifold and pipe were
designed by Ford for    a Mustang II with a 2.3 4Cyl...
15. Saw what would be my new Cutlass, car overheated conveniently in
rush hour traffic    as a result of thinking it would be replaced.
16. Replace MUSTANG with Cutlass...  Insert new problem sequence here
- ->
- --
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
- - Here we go Steelers!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 22:29:29 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong-Driveshafts

Tracy H. Shires wrote:

> Has anyone else had a problem with the stock driveshafts? I'm nervous
everytime I downshift now... Or is it my cursed luck, hehe

Grab an Aluminum driveshaft from a driveshaft place...  <G>  Insert hard
core u-Joints, and down shift at will.
- --
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
- - Here we go Steelers!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 98 19:09:16 PST
From: "chris smetana" <chris@abcs.com>
Subject: Non-Olds

Well, my pc craped out AGAIN.  And for the last time.  I'm actually borrowing a
keyboard for a week or so until I get a new pc.  Enough of this 486/50 w/ 8MB
ram and win 3.1 crap, it's time to upgrade.  It died right when I was about to
reply to the headliner chrome retainer post about my parts for sale (which I
sent after this). Done bitching.

My question is do most of the pc's now a days come w/ ps2 ports for the 
keyboard
and mouse?  Or does it depend on what you buy and from whom?

Thanks
Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
chris@abcs.com

1969 Cutlass S W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 98 19:09:40 PST
From: "chris smetana" <chris@abcs.com>
Subject: Re: 69 4-4-2 parts for sale

Mike,
Actually, these are the chrome headliner channels.  I tried to describe them as
best as I could since I didn't know what they are called.  FWIW, I think there
are three chrome pieces moving from the outside to inside on the holiday coupe
in question (mine).  1st the drip rail moldings. 2nd the chrome weatherstrip
channel retainers.  3rd, and the only piece actually in the interior, is the
chrome headliner retainers.  I believe ª3 is an option (?) only (?) on the 
4-4-2
as both myself and Chris Sparks have seen them on 69 and 68 4-4-2s 
respectively.
On my W-31 is the rubber pieces.  Anyone have any info on this or care to check
their hardtops.

So what I have for sale then is the chrome headliner retainers.

I just checked my Year One catalog and they call them 'headliner windlace'.
Nice picture that descibes exactly what I'm referring to, but on 64-67 models.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
chris@abcs.com

1969 Cutlass S W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

- ----------
> > > -interior chrome that goes on the roof.
> >
> > I have something like this on my 68 442 (spare one).  Is it rare because
> > all I have
> > ever seen were those rubberized ones.
>
> Chris, I think Chris S. was referring to the metal H/T roof rail
> weatherstrip retaining channels if I read that post correctly.  Those
> chrome headliner retainers you are referring to are rare like you said,
> but I've personally never seen a '69 have them, or any reference to it
> in the '69 service/body manuals, but, that doesn't mean that they didn't
> exist in '69.
>
> Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 22:40:04 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: NON-Expiring registration for Michigan

<RC,
>I have the "Authentic License Plate".....and it cost me $35 bucks and is
good for TEN years.>

Well maybe that's how it use to be but not now.  Currently it's $35.
NON-EXPIRING, not ten years.  Unless your talking about a couple years ago.
I know they just change this type of registration in Jan. of '97


< You do NOT use a sticker on this plate>

Agreed!  That's what I did say


>Requirements are....
>- owned solely as a collector's item; and used only for historical club
activities, parades, car shows, etc.>
<It's pretty clear as to the intent, don't make your classic a daily driver>

Obviously the laws' not meant for daily use, but I don't like being told
when I can and can't use my property.

 "Historical club activities, parades, car shows",  I rarely do any of
these.  I just want to drive my Olds for enjoyment.  Fortunately those three
little letters, "ETC" could mean alot legally.  I interpret it to mean a
relaxing Sunday morning drive or cruising on a Sat. afternoon.   I'm NOT
saying to abuse this law, that would only ruin it!  But I bought my car to
drive!  Not to go sit at a car show for 8 hours and stare at it.  It's not
even close to a daily driver, however I put on over 3,200 last summer.  It's
my recreational vehical.  I'm only saying that this little "loop hole" is
great because it gives us more freedom with our cars.

I'm not sure if your arguing or agreeing with me.  The reason for my post
was only to alert people in MI that this law exsists.  Not to abuse it.
Many don't know about this great deal and they go the "Historical Vehical"
route which costs more.  Besides it's great having an original plate on your
car.  Looks good too!  :)



<Thank You Michigan for having this program!>


{{RC raises his beer can}}   Here!!!  Here!!!


RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
1995 Achieva S

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 22:37:01 -0500
From: "John Richmond" <richmond@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile program on TV

FYI, I got these dates and times from Speedvisions website.

John Richmond
richmond@tir.com   or   jwr10@chrysler.com
Warren, MI
72 442/455


- ----------
> From: John Richmond <richmond@tir.com>
> To: Oldsmobile E-mail <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Oldsmobile program on TV
> Date: Thursday, January 15, 1998 7:48 PM
>
> Cars & Parts TV will be airing an episode of their program about the
> Oldsmobile
> centennial. For those of you who get Speedvision the program will be on
> three times
> this coming week.  Sunday 1-18-98 @ 9:30am,  Monday 1-19-98 @ 8:30am
> and Thursday 1-22-98 @ 6:30pm.
> Sounds like it should be a good program.
>
> John Richmond
> richmond@tir.com   or   jwr10@chrysler.com
> Warren, MI
> 72 442/455
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª1059
*********************************
