
oldsmobile-digest      Friday, February 6 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1088



UNBOUNCE: 455 won't stay running
Power window switch question
Re: An options question
Re: idle problems-72 cutlass
Re: 78 Delta 88 heater fan quits
Re: Doug's Centennial Video
Re: idle problems-72 cutlass
Re: idle problems-72 cutlass
455 won't stay running(second round)
Re: Dave Smith Engineering
Sell Electricity! New Laws can make YOU wealthy!
57 olds won't start
Trunk Stripes?
Re: Service book???
Re: 78 Delta 88 heater fan quits
26 spline 4spd on a 72 Cutlass??
Re: Power window switch question
Re: An options question
Re: 455 won't stay running
Re: 66-67 400/425 BB
Re: Wires ?
Re: Trunk Stripes?
Re: An options question
Re: An options question
Re: Trunk Stripes?
Re[2]: An options question
Re: Wires ?
Re: Power window switch question
Re: 26 spline 4spd on a 72 Cutlass??
Re: idle problems-72 cutlass
Re: Oldsmobile Lansing Video from Doug Newman
70 Cutlass Supreme
Re: NEED WINDSHIELD ('76 98)
Dist. cap, coil, gas filter, etc.
Re: Dave Smith Engineering
Re: Power window switch question
Re: Power window switch question
Re: idle problems-72 cutlass
Re: Oldsmobile Lansing Video from Doug Newman
Re: Doug's Centennial Video
Re: Service book???
take me off your spam list now!
Re: 78 Delta 88 heater fan quits
442
Re: NEED WINDSHIELD ('76 98)
Re: take me off your spam list now!
Re: 68 442 rag Stripe info
A/C hoses for '70 442 or Retrofit A/C
Re: I'm looking for these
Cutlass G-body Rallye Pacs 4-sale
Re: No start
Re: new gas tank; priming carb
307 Timing
Block numbers
Re: 455 won't stay running(second round)
Re: 57 olds won't start
Re: No start
To '69 H/O lovers
Re: 57 olds won't start
Re: take me off your spam list now!
Re: Trunk Stripes?
Water Pump Question for anyone online now!!!
Air Bags and stuff...
A Mole hill of olds heads
73-76 Full Size Brakes?
Need Help

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 21:31:51 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 455 won't stay running

Address problem; hopefully fixed now.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Christopher Casteel <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Re: 455 won't stay running

Had the same problem with mine just recently.  Added new coil, condenser,
and fuel pump which seemed to help (Distributer, wires, and plugs were
already new). However, we decided that since the car had been sitting a long
time, the valves, etc. were probably gummed up.  After the car ran a while,
the problem seemed to go away.

I'd certainly suggest a oil change (after the engine's warmed, if possible)
with some internal engine cleaner. It wouldn't hurt, that's for sure.

Could be bad gas.  If she's been sitting that long, I'd drain the tank and
put in fresh (high octane) gas.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
earthsci@usit.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 20:13:13 -0500
From: loris <loris@tir.com>
Subject: Power window switch question

All:

Without removing my drivers side door panel, what does the 4 button
power window switch harness/wires look like?  I mean, are they a series
of 4 small blocks with round prong inlet holes or are they individual
wires that connect to each individual window switch prong? I think I'm
phrasing the questions correctly, no?

Thanks,

- -Loris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 20:13:42 EST
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: An options question

Recently examined an original owner '68 442 convert. Had a 455 in it,
painted
red, 'F' block, 'C' heads original motor. He--the only owner--said he'd
ordered it that way. Papers, protect-o-plate, all there. Don't have copy of
VIN, though.

I would say, therefore, that a 455 was available in '68 on a non H/O
Cutlass.

Peter
CoupeKing

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 21:30:33 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: idle problems-72 cutlass

On Thu, 5 Feb 1998, Erik wrote:
> Getting about 50 oil PSI and everything looks good.  As soon as I put it
> into Drive, Oil PSI drops considerably and my idle goes way down.  Same
> thing with Reverse, but if I drop it into Nuetral, idle returns to
> normal.  Could this be a bad carb, needs tuned up, intake manifold,
> what??  I have a holley 4'bbl 600 CFM dbl pumper and a Performer

I had the same symptoms on the Delta when I leaned out the carb too much
by accident. As soon as I richened it up it would idle well in drive as
well as in park.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 21:37:36 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 78 Delta 88 heater fan quits

On Thu, 5 Feb 1998, Rob Lewis wrote:
> Car has air-cond, fan works intermittently never on high.
> Heat is on full all the time heat control does not work(seems to be
> connected)
> Also no buttons do anything when pushed.
> Vac lines look okay.
> Mech controls look okay.

Sounds like you might have a few different problems. If the heater fan
will never go to hi speed I wonder if you might not have a bad blower
switch. Check all connections there. If the heat is on all the time then
you have a problem with the vacuum controls. There is a vac "switch" on
the backside of the heater control panel that is a round piece of soft
vinyl with little vac lines coming from it. They have been known to go
bad and cause the problems you describe. Replacements can be obtained
from your friendly junque yarde...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 21:39:28 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Doug's Centennial Video

<rave reviews snipped>

I'm still waiting for mine, 2 weeks after Doug mailed it... thanks for
nothing, Canada Post! :(

Probably a bunch of customs guys checking it out...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 21:06:00 EST
From: RPTW32@aol.com
Subject: Re: idle problems-72 cutlass

In a message dated 98-02-05 19:43:23 EST, you write:

<<   As soon as I put it
into Drive, Oil PSI drops considerably and my idle goes way down.  Same
thing with Reverse, but if I drop it into Nuetral, idle returns to
normal.  >>

Kind of sounds like vacuum leak somewhere. Double check all lines and
might want to spray some carb cleaner around the base of carb with engine
running. If it picks up RPM then there's your problem.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 21:16:44 EST
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Re: idle problems-72 cutlass

In a message dated 98-02-05 19:43:15 EST, you write:

<<
Hi all,

Whenever I start up my '72 Cutlass S it runs real strong in park.
Getting about 50 oil PSI and everything looks good.  As soon as I put it
into Drive, Oil PSI drops considerably and my idle goes way down.  Same
thing with Reverse, but if I drop it into Nuetral, idle returns to
normal.  Could this be a bad carb, needs tuned up, intake manifold,
what??  I have a holley 4'bbl 600 CFM dbl pumper and a Performer
Manifold.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks everyone,
Erik B. >>

Uhhh.., two questions.... What is your idle with the trans in park, and what
is the idle when the trans is in gear (drive, reverse, etc.)?

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 21:21:43 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: 455 won't stay running(second round)

ok......i forgot to tell all of you guys the whole story.  it has a brand
new
fuel pump.  the carb came off a 70 350 in a junk yard, which was just
rebuilt.
the fuel tank was cleaned and reinstalled.  oil change with filter.  one day
old gas.  new cap and wires.  i have checked the distributer dwell and
timing(today).  still putts.  tomorrow i will hook up the dead cylinder
tester
and maybe something good will happen.  also, when it runs, fuel sprays out
the
carb.  not like a steady stream, but more like a mist.  this is why i think
it
needs lifters or a valve job.

mikey tvb@aol.com
cutlass w/403

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 21:22:01 EST
From: EDZX6@aol.com
Subject: Re: Dave Smith Engineering

I'm not familiar with Dave Smith Eng.  Where are they located?  and  How
could
I get a catalog?  anyone got their address?

Eddie
72 Cutlass S  conv / 4spd

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 98 19:34:18 EST
From: powermlm1@hotmail.com
Subject: Sell Electricity! New Laws can make YOU wealthy!

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trying! Its worth it!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 21:32:00 -0500
From: "Douglas Watts" <mel.or.doug.watts@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: 57 olds won't start

I need some help with my Dad's 57 olds. It had a j-2 set up and ran ok but
would occasionally pop back thru the carb. Dad had a spare distributor
rebuilt and had me install it. He didn' t have the correct j-2 linkage and
so decided to go back to a 4bbl set up with rebiult carb. We installed
steel shim style manifold gaskets with the correct side up but no rtv
sealing compound. When we tried to start the car we got nothing. we matched
up every inginition wire etc. with his other running 57. We switched
distributors back, set the distributor 180 degrees from where we started
and still nothing. I don't have much experience with oldsmobiles. I am more
familiar with small block Fords. I know they are very fussy about manifold
and carb gasket vacuum leaks.  Should we have used rtv to seal the intake
manifold? Are there any other things we may have overlooked that could be
the problem? Thanks in advance for your help.
Doug - Cincinnati

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 21:54:34 EST
From: EDZX6@aol.com
Subject: Trunk Stripes?

I don't know too much about the stripe packages, but did any olds Cutlass
come
from the factory with trunk stripes? Same stripes as on the OAI hood but
also
on the trunk. Big wide ones.

Eddie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 21:59:14 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Service book???

>Ok, I am a lurker, and am just now starting on a friends '72 Cutlass and
>need some assistance.  What is the best reference manual out there?  I have
>restored many a car, and there is always "the best manual" manual for every

The absolute best manual for that car will be the 1972 Oldsmobile Chassis
Service Manual; originals (check the ads in Hemmings) and reprints (from
Year One; decent price) are both available. Expensive ($45-$75), but more
than worth it. Chilton's doesn't come close to providing what this book
does. It covers everything but the body and interior trim.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 21:59:17 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 78 Delta 88 heater fan quits

>I was wondering if anybody experienced the same problem
>Car has air-cond, fan works intermittently never on high.

The connector in the high-speed line (big fat red wire running across the
engine compartment behind the engine itself, often tied into the AC harness)
is either dirty or melted. The intermittent operation is likely due to poor
connections on the blower relay on the AC fan box.

>Heat is on full all the time heat control does not work(seems to be
>connected)

Maybe the temperature control cable is adjusted too tight; there is a vacuum
switch on the control unit tied into the movement of the temperature lever,
and if it doesn't go over all the way to the cold, it won't allow the heater
control valve on the engine to shut off.

>Also no buttons do anything when pushed.

Buttons? In a '78? I thought that was all levers. You're not talking about
an automatic climate control system there, are you? In that case, it's time
to call in the witch doctor... ;)

>Vac lines look okay.

Are the vacuum lines to the heater control itself hooked up properly?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 22:18:14 EST
From: EDZX6@aol.com
Subject: 26 spline 4spd on a 72 Cutlass??

I recently changed the clutch on my 72 Cutlass S (4spd).  Transmission had
26
splines and at the shop I was told that this was not what the book called
for.
Is this possible? Could my car perhaps not have a stock transmission? A
friend
of mine (who help me change the clutch) thinks that my transmission is an
M22
I don't know if olds ever came with this transmissions. We did use an old
yoke
of a TH400 to keep the gear oil from coming out, if that helps any.  Would
appreciate any info specially from other list members that have 4spd
tranny's.

Eddie
72 Cutlass S conv / 4spd

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 22:23:41 EST
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Power window switch question

In a message dated 98-02-05 21:25:34 EST, you write:

<<
Without removing my drivers side door panel, what does the 4 button
power window switch harness/wires look like?  I mean, are they a series
of 4 small blocks with round prong inlet holes or are they individual
wires that connect to each individual window switch prong? I think I'm
phrasing the questions correctly, no?

Thanks,

-Loris


----------------------- He >>
Hi Loris
  There will be one black plastic block that fits only one way on the back
of
the switch,


Everett  OCA# 1961     1961   Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 98 22:23:05 GMT
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: An options question

Hi all,

I have a strange question to ask.  Here is a little history:  I know
someone who had a 1968 442.  She has owned it all of the cars life.
She said it was special ordered from the factory with a 455.  Was this
possible?

Chris Sparks

     Well, in the 60s it seemed anything was possible, given the right
     connections at the factory.  Unfortunately, the days of emissions
     certified drivetrains has brought most of this to a halt.  I've
     certainly never seen a _documented_ 455 in a 68 442 (except, of
     course, for the 68 H/O), but that isn't to say it isn't possible one
     got built.  The only certain proof, (barring the discovery of the
     words "factory experimental" or something like it on the build sheet)
     is to match up the engine ID number with the car's VIN.

     Assuming this _is_, in fact, an F block 455, the engine ID number
     stamped on the driver's side of the block should start out with a "3"
     for Olds, an "8" for 1968, and a letter indicating factory which must
     match the letter in the sixth position of the car's VIN (it should
     also, of course, match the factory indication on the body data plate -
     in other words, for a Lansing-built car, the sixth place in the VIN
     would be an "M", the body data plate should indicate "LAN", and the
     third place in the engine ID should also be an "M").  And, of course,
     the last six digits of the engine ID number must match the last six
     digits of the VIN.

     It _is_ possible to machine down this pad and restamp the numbers, so
     be careful to check that they look like those on other Olds engines in
     font and height.

     If documentation for such a car could be put together, it would be
     quite a find.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 98 22:29:40 GMT
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: 455 won't stay running

i recently tried starting a the 455 in a friend of mine's 442.  it doesn't
like to start and run on it's own.

     Mike,

     Others have given good advice, but my money is on the carb.  After 9
     years, there is almost certainly gum or crud in the fuel bowl.  I'd be
     amazed if the idle circuits weren't plugged up.  After the easy
     things, like checking timing and pulling and replacing plug wires one
     at a time (to check for dead cylinders), I'd rebuild the carb before
     spending any more money.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 22:30:28 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 66-67 400/425 BB

> only offered on the 400 Big Block, and by some 66/67 owners,
> considered
> the Best Block, if you will.  Mean sucker, no doubt.

> Hey Mike, you wouldn't be talking about guys like me, would ya??
>

Well, you WERE one of the ones I was talking about.  But I agree.  It is
a bad mammma-jamma.  Spins up easier and harder than it's 455 brother.
Too bad there aren't as many of them floating around to be grabbed like
the 455's.

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 22:34:27 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Wires ?

JFOWLER@capecod.net wrote:
>
> I'm in the process of putting in a original AM/FM stereo in my 69 442.
> I was wondering if anybody knew what color the power lead should be?  I
> have a loose orange and a yellow wire.  I'm guessing that it should be
> the yellow wire and the orange should go to a clock or tach.

It's the yellow one.   Orange one MAY go to the cig. lighter.  Not 100%
sure without looking though.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 22:40:56 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Trunk Stripes?

> I don't know too much about the stripe packages, but did any olds Cutlass
come
> from the factory with trunk stripes? Same stripes as on the OAI hood but
also
> on the trunk. Big wide ones.

Only one I know of is the 70 pace car.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 22:39:34 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: An options question

> I would say, therefore, that a 455 was available in '68 on a non H/O
Cutlass.

Well, it certainly wasn't available en mass, and they did some weird
stuff back then, but don't discount the fact that a replacement block
under warranty could have been used also.  The long stroke 400's didn't
hold up to a lot of pounding.  The best way to be sure, is to match the
VIN against the block numbers on the little pad.  If it is an original,
that is a rare bird.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 22:52:15 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: An options question

> Anythings possible if you know the right people. In 68 & 69 GM corporate
still
> had 400 cid limit max on all A body platforms. That is why only the 68-9
H/O
> had  455's and you couldn't get from factory on 442 or Cutlass.

True enough. Remember though folks, the 455's were installed on the
factory assembly lines in the H/O's, contrary to what you may have
heard.  According to Doc Watson, a story was made up about the 455's
being installed at Demmer.  Nope.  That was just to keep the Olds brass
happy with their ban.  The cars were driven off the assembly line.  An
old Olds engineer has pics of the plain white '69 non-emblemed 442's on
their way out the Lansing door....Makes sense, since the assembly manual
references W-46 codes in the engine section, and Federal law said the
engines had to have part of the VIN stamped into them when they left the
factory.  So, unless that was a 455 block that "got away," it should
have had a 400.  Anything was possible back then, however.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 98 22:35:04 GMT
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Trunk Stripes?

I don't know too much about the stripe packages, but did any olds Cutlass
come
from the factory with trunk stripes? Same stripes as on the OAI hood but
also
on the trunk. Big wide ones.

Eddie

     Yep.  The 70 Ralley 350 and the 70 Y74 Indy Pace Car replicas.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 98 22:40:04 GMT
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: An options question

Recently examined an original owner '68 442 convert. Had a 455 in it,
painted
red, 'F' block, 'C' heads original motor. He--the only owner--said he'd
ordered it that way. Papers, protect-o-plate, all there. Don't have copy of
VIN, though.

I would say, therefore, that a 455 was available in '68 on a non H/O
Cutlass.

Peter
CoupeKing

     Not by any factory sales literature or documentation I've ever seen.
     Again, such special orders were not unheard of in the 60s, but I've
     never seen a documented 68 442 with a factory-installed 455 (again,
     other than the H/O).  Red painted 455s with C heads easily bolt into
     68 442 converts - the only firm proof (other than a build sheet) is to
     match the engine ID with the car's VIN.  See my previous response to
     Chris Sparks.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 23:03:36 -0500
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Wires ?

At 06:14 PM 2/5/98 -0800, you wrote:
Jim

        Yes the yellow wire is the power lead for the radio. It is switched
with the ignition.

Jim Chermack

>I'm in the process of putting in a original AM/FM stereo in my 69 442.
>I was wondering if anybody knew what color the power lead should be?  I
>have a loose orange and a yellow wire.  I'm guessing that it should be
>the yellow wire and the orange should go to a clock or tach.  BTW, I
>took a big car stereo (69) and moved the heat sink to the back.  Fits
>GREAT!  Thanks in advance!
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 23:06:16 -0500
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Power window switch question

At 08:13 PM 2/5/98 -0500, you wrote:
Loris

        The plug is a large flat plug with the wires set right into the
baklite backing. Should have a bunch of wires going to it with round holes.
It only attaches to the switch one way.

Jim Chermack

>All:
>
>Without removing my drivers side door panel, what does the 4 button
>power window switch harness/wires look like?  I mean, are they a series
>of 4 small blocks with round prong inlet holes or are they individual
>wires that connect to each individual window switch prong? I think I'm
>phrasing the questions correctly, no?
>
>Thanks,
>
>-Loris
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 23:08:43 -0500
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 26 spline 4spd on a 72 Cutlass??

At 10:18 PM 2/5/98 EST, you wrote:
Eddie

        That sounds like a M-22 to me. It was used in Oldsmobiles starting
in 71. You had to order a pretty stout rear gear to get that tranny though.
Should have had a 3.42 or 3.73. This was normally found in W-30's though. I
have not seen one in a Cutlass yet.

Jim Chermack

>I recently changed the clutch on my 72 Cutlass S (4spd).  Transmission had
26
>splines and at the shop I was told that this was not what the book called
for.
>Is this possible? Could my car perhaps not have a stock transmission? A
friend
>of mine (who help me change the clutch) thinks that my transmission is an
M22
>I don't know if olds ever came with this transmissions. We did use an old
yoke
>of a TH400 to keep the gear oil from coming out, if that helps any.  Would
>appreciate any info specially from other list members that have 4spd
tranny's.
>
>Eddie
>72 Cutlass S conv / 4spd
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 23:11:47 -0500
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: idle problems-72 cutlass

At 09:16 PM 2/5/98 EST, you wrote:
Erik

        Look for a vacuum leak at the manifold or carb. That's what your
discribing sounds like.

Jim Chermack

> Hi all,
>
> Whenever I start up my '72 Cutlass S it runs real strong in park.
> Getting about 50 oil PSI and everything looks good.  As soon as I put it
> into Drive, Oil PSI drops considerably and my idle goes way down.  Same
> thing with Reverse, but if I drop it into Nuetral, idle returns to
> normal.  Could this be a bad carb, needs tuned up, intake manifold,
> what??  I have a holley 4'bbl 600 CFM dbl pumper and a Performer
> Manifold.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks everyone,
> Erik B. >>
>
>Uhhh.., two questions.... What is your idle with the trans in park, and
what
>is the idle when the trans is in gear (drive, reverse, etc.)?
>
>Chris Ruper
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 23:19:51 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Lansing Video from Doug Newman

Jason Adcock wrote:
>
> Lansing Video Info:
>
> Mail a $20 check to
> Doug Newman
> 22 Ridge Road
> Columbus, MS 39701
>
> and give him your address and he'll send one out to you.  I got mine
today, but can't watch it until
> I get near a VCR at home this weekend, cuz us hicks ain't got nun uv dem
video boxes down hear in da
> Sowth (well, in college anyway).

Jason, I think you can take a look at it if you know someone with a
regular camcorder.  I think they have the capability of previewing what
was "recorded".  You need to check with someone that uses one more than
I do though to be sure.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 23:16:44 EST
From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Subject: 70 Cutlass Supreme

Has anyone bought a grille from Brothers Auto or Year one? Are they worth
buying? They list them for about $60.00, which is better than the replies I
have had. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Please E-Mail me directly
yorcoy@aol.com
Thanks for the help!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 23:23:03 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: NEED WINDSHIELD ('76 98)

Jeremy Enos wrote:
>
> $367 installed... so I figure I could really come out ahead if I found a
> $50 one in the junk or something.

If you can find somebody that has an autobody shop, they can get it for
about half price or so.  It's amazing what you can get if you know some
people.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 22:18:33 -0600
From: senator@itis.com (Robert F. Newbegin Jr.)
Subject: Dist. cap, coil, gas filter, etc.

Well, I just got done replacing my Delco-Remy distributor cap and rotor
with an Accel Super Cap and Rotor.  Seems to be a slight improvement,
although the worn spark plug cables and old spark plugs don't help much.
Last week I replaced the gas filter and noticed an increase in power.  Wow!
So much trouble from such a little part.  I didn't put any Lock-Tite on
the inlet thing when I put it back together.  I hope I don't have to.  Hmm,
I wonder if K&N makes a fuel filter...

Has anyone used the Accel Super Coil?  It's like $60, a regular one is $20.
It couldn't hurt my engine, could it?  Would it really make a difference?

I don't suppose that anyone wants an engine compartment light from a '78
Cutlass?  You pay for shipping, its yours.

Now I just have to find out why the dash lights keep throwing fuses.  It's
getting annoying to drive at night and have to guess my speed from my tach
:¬)

Bob
'78 Cutlass Supreme (W19?)
350/350 from '73-'77

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 23:29:34 -0500
From: Dan Boone <boone.dan@acd.net>
Subject: Re: Dave Smith Engineering

I just called Dave Smith Engineering today, (909) 371-7040, be patient they
are
busy. The catalog is $9.00 and they send it first class. You can order it
over the
phone with a credit card.

EDZX6@aol.com wrote:

> I'm not familiar with Dave Smith Eng.  Where are they located?  and  How
could
> I get a catalog?  anyone got their address?
>
> Eddie
> 72 Cutlass S  conv / 4spd

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 13:38:59 +0900
From: James Zito <jimzito@uriel.net>
Subject: Re: Power window switch question

loris,
There is a black teminal block about the same size as the switch, with
round holes for the pins.

Jim
69 442 conv

> Without removing my drivers side door panel, what does the 4 button
> power window switch harness/wires look like?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 13:37:20 +0900
From: James Zito <jimzito@uriel.net>
Subject: Re: Power window switch question

loris ote:

> All:
>
> Without removing my drivers side door panel, what does the 4 button
> power window switch harness/wires look like?  I mean, are they a series
> of 4 small blocks with round prong inlet holes or are they individual
> wires that connect to each individual window switch prong? I think I'm
> phrasing the questions correctly, no?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Loris

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 00:19:04 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: idle problems-72 cutlass

James & Joanne Chermack wrote:
>
>         Look for a vacuum leak at the manifold or carb. That's what your
> discribing sounds like.

Yeah, I had this on my 1984 307 V8 also.  It would actually idle faster than
normal (even when the
engine was warm) in P and N.  When it was in any drive gear (R, D, 2, 1),
the idle would be the
normal drive idle.  I had a vacuum hose with a frayed end (so it came off
the nipple) behind the
carb.  I guess it was the fast-idle vacuum line or whatever.  When I
replaced that line, it was all
back to normal.

Hope this helps.

+---------------------------------------------------------------+
| __    ________ |
| \ \  / __  __/ Jason Adcock |
| \ \/ / / / CS Major, Virginia Tech |
|   \  / / / mailto:jadcock@vt.edu |
|    \/ /_/ http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/ |
| |
+---------------------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 00:20:12 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Lansing Video from Doug Newman

Don Sowers wrote:
>
> Jason, I think you can take a look at it if you know someone with a
> regular camcorder.  I think they have the capability of previewing what
> was "recorded".  You need to check with someone that uses one more than
> I do though to be sure.

Yeah, but I'm going home tomorrow evening and we have a few VCR's at home,
so hopefully I can find a
free one.  8-)

+---------------------------------------------------------------+
| __    ________ |
| \ \  / __  __/ Jason Adcock |
| \ \/ / / / CS Major, Virginia Tech |
|   \  / / / mailto:jadcock@vt.edu |
|    \/ /_/ http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/ |
| |
+---------------------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 23:24:39 -0600
From: dnewman@wcbi.com (Doug Newman)
Subject: Re: Doug's Centennial Video

Hi folks,
              I just wanted to thank everybody for their positive response
to the Lansing video.  All these rave reviews have made my day.  (Make that
WEEK.  :-)
For anyone who wants a copy, Just send a check to the address below, and
most orders go out the same day payment is received.  Total running time is
1:01:55, all set to music, and it's nothing but cars.  (OLDS cars, that
is...)  I'm not affiliated with Olds, GM, or any other company that produced
videos for the Centennial.  Just someone that's partial to Oldsmobiles.
Thanks again for all the support.

Doug Newman
22 Ridge Road
Columbus, MS   39701

1987 442
http://www.442.com/newman.html

p.s. Greg Beaulieu, I'm about ready to call out the RCMP to search for your
copy!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 98 0:40:13 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: Service book???

At 17:05 2/5/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Ok, I am a lurker, and am just now starting on a friends '72 Cutlass and
>need some assistance.  What is the best reference manual out there?  I have
>restored many a car, and there is always "the best manual" manual for every
>car.  I am just wondering what the list thinks is the best for reference
>and for assistance on such a beast.
>


    Not only the 1972 Cassis Service Manual as was mentioned by Robert Barry
but also the 1972 Fisher Body Service Manual.  This will give you excellent
diagrams and details of not only the exterior parts but also interior and
wiring.


   Glenn
   '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 22:19:36 -0500
From: "Matthew  H. Boughey" <mboughey@mindspring.com>
Subject: take me off your spam list now!

take me off your mailing please you are doing me no good!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 04:35:59 -0600 (CST)
From: CM32714@swt.edu
Subject: Re: 78 Delta 88 heater fan quits



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 09:00:55 -0600
From: "Dave Carolfi" <carolfi@tznet.com>
Subject: 442

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BD32DD.BC22CB40
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Looking for O.A.I. eyebrow chrome trim for 1970 hood, left and right. =
For sale 1969 455 with C heads and misc. parts such as 10.25-1 pistons.  =
Mid Wisconsin.
   =20
                                         carolfi@tznet.com

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BD32DD.BC22CB40
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Looking for O.A.I. eyebrow chrome =
trim for 1970=20
hood, left and right. For sale 1969 455 with C heads and misc. parts =
such as=20
10.25-1 pistons.&nbsp; Mid Wisconsin.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000=20
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
carolfi@tznet.com</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BD32DD.BC22CB40--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 09:13:14 -0500
From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Subject: Re: NEED WINDSHIELD ('76 98)

At 06:42 PM 2/5/1998 -0600, you wrote:
>$367 installed... so I figure I could really come out ahead if I found a
>$50 one in the junk or something.
>Thanks-

That does seem high.  Have you tried calling around?  I called several
glass shops before settling on one.  I was quoted prices that differed from
place to place by almost $100.



*********************************************
Dan Gulino
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
*********************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 08:52:34 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: take me off your spam list now!

Regarding that  comment:    >take me off your mailing please you are doing
me no good!>


Man, I'm glad to see this guy's leaving!  Spam list huh?  He must have
bumped his head.  ;)

Just think, if these dummies would only READ the little bit of info that is
sent to them when they s*bscribe, they could solve their own problem(s).

{I better shut up now, before I get started}  8>)

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
1995 Achieva S

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 06:54:45 -0800
From: "mr. coy d. arbogast" <coyster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 68 442 rag Stripe info

We ahve just finsihed our 68 series stripes.
We made original style and then we made a hood insert and a special set of
stripes for the front fenders with the 442 cut in. (for people who have
dechrome there car and us them for racing) Nice accent Hood insert and side
stripes.
Thanks Coy

- ----------
> From: COUPEKING@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 68 442 rag Stripe info
> Date: Monday, February 02, 1998 7:10 PM
>
> Rob-
> You do know that if you want to put the 'bumble bee' stripe on your '68,
you
> have to move the 442 emblems on the fenders down and back, don't you?
> Otherwise the front part of the stripe gets cut off by the bottom of the
wheel
> arch.
> Proceed with this knowledge and you won't have unpleasant, irreversible,
> surprises!
> Peter
> CoupeKing

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 09:06:57 -0600
From: Mike Schlottman <mschlott@rsn.hp.com>
Subject: A/C hoses for '70 442 or Retrofit A/C

My A/C hoses are leaking oil at the fittings so I'm looking for a good
set of hoses.  Who is a good supplier for these hoses?  Can I have mine
repaired?  They appear to be leaking between the fitting and the rubber
part of the hose.

Since I will be losing all of my R-12, if it is not all ready gone, now
would be a good time to look at using a more enviro-freindly
refridgarant.  Have any of you used the so called R-12 replacements that
don't require any hardware changes?  If this isn't a real option what
other options do I have and what might the cost be?

Summer is on it's way and I'm not looking foreward to no A/C.

On a side note,  I'd like to hear some oppinions on puting window tint
in a classic like a '70 442.

mike

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 10:16:51 -0500
From: Dan Boone <boone.dan@acd.net>
Subject: Re: I'm looking for these

Hey Guy,
I am having a hard time getting a in touch with you, I have the thermometer
you
want and the name of guy with the 8 track to cassette adapter. If you are
still
interested send me your address and I will mail it to you. $10.00 + shipping
about $2.00. The word is out, I am getting other e-mail asking for this
thermometer. Let me now
Dan

RC Hellebuyck wrote:

> Looking for:
>
> One of those 8-track adapters that allows you to play a cassette.  Made by
> Kraco and a few others in the early 80s.
>
> A Olds door mounted, outside thermometer in EC or I'll settle for one
that's
> NOS.   Was available only in 1971 so I'm told.  If you don't know what I'm
> talking about, I'll be adding a picture of one on my web site soon.
>
> RC Hellebuyck
> 1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
> 1995 Achieva S
>
> http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 09:56:37 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Cutlass G-body Rallye Pacs 4-sale

I have 2 Cutlass G-body ralley pacs. If you want to buy one, let me know.
PLEASE REPLY TO ME PRIVATELY, and not to the list!
- --
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
  http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/zip/oldsfaq4.zip

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 12:17:21 -0500
From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Subject: Re: No start

At 01:06 PM 2/5/98 -0800, you wrote:
>     I've got some strange no start problems with my Ch%vy
>Suburban...hey it's not an Olds but it does have HEI (non
>computerized) and a non computer carb (Holley) so the info crosses
>over! Sometimes it'll crank (always fast..starter and battery are
>good) but won't fire......leave it for a while (1/2-1 hr) and then it
>starts right up. It's done it 3-4 times so far.....once it did it on
>the first start of the day! That time it started 5 mins later....
>     I think the HEI module may be failing intermittently. Ideas?
>Coil? Pickup?
>     In digest mode....be back Monday!
>
>===
>John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com

John,
I had the exact same problem with my Bronco. The cause turned out to be a
loose battery ground wire on the engine block.

Ray

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 13:24:12 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: new gas tank; priming carb

>Heck, if you didn't want to pour it down the vent, you could probably mist
>enough fuel in with a spray bottle to start the engine and keep it running.
>Just another option.

VERY Bad idea..... It's too easy to lean out or flood the engine with a
spray bottle.  That causes a backfire though the carb, which in turn blows
the gas back onto the bottle while igniting it, leaving you holding a
ticking molotov cocktail.  Since it's very hot you'll try to sling it as far
as you can but with no time to aim you'll end up hitting the clothesline
pole, causing it to bounce back towards you and land 12 feet away.  At which
point you'll toss a big rag on it in the hopes of it smothering some while
you run like hell.  If you're lucky you'll run across the hose and you can
douse the flames from a relatively safe distance of 50 feet as you check for
burns and make sure you still have your eyebrows.

DON'T KEEP A CAR RUNNING BY MISTING GAS INTO THE CARB!!!  Believe me, I
know. :)

Greg Pruett
- ----------
Ok, bad idea! No need for another life threatening experience! It was pretty
funny. Thanks Greg.
- --
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
  http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/zip/oldsfaq4.zip

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 14:44:12 -0500
From: Jim Hurd <jhurd@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: 307 Timing

        I'm trying to time my 87 Salon (307) and wondered if anyone can
confirm my assumption.  Since I am not a contortionished with good eyesight
the best I can tell is that the timing indicator (w/numbers) goes from 0
degrees to 24 degrees in 4 degree increments with the "points" multiples of
4 (0,4,8,12,etc..) and the "valleys" multiples of 2 (0,2,6,10,etc...).  With
167k on the clock it looks like it is running at about 30 degrees @ idle.
Hmmmm wonder why its been pinging so much. :-)




Jim H.
'87 Salon

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 11:50:15 PST
From: "john foster" <anyasbbj@hotmail.com>
Subject: Block numbers

barry
"G" heads are from a '71 motor; see if the VIN derivative on the
machined
pad on the side of the block just below the #1 cylinder spark-plug is
from a
'71 Olds (should read "31Mxxxxxx", where 3=Olds, 1=last digit of the
year of
manufacture, M=Production plant (might be a diff. letter), and
xxxxxx=production serial number of the car it was installed in.

well i got all the numbers off the block and one off #1 clyinder was
32M744720 so i guess it is out of a '72. does the 396021F mean anything
above the timing chain or the 2724927 on the filler tube?
i have a couple reference books that tell me olds 455 '70 and below have
between 10.5 and 10.25 compression and them 71 rolles around and
everything drops down to 8.25 - 9. how is this. do they increase the cc
in the head, put a lower dish in the pistons? if it is pistons is there
any reason why you can't put in stock '68 10.25 pistons in a '72 block.
i am curious how all that works. the only way i'm going to have 8.5 or
lower is if i got a blower strapped to it.

Oh check this out. (by the way i putting it in a 59' chevy pick-up) the
motor sits so low in that thing i got 15 inches or so from the top of
the carb to the hood. of course this is only fantacy now but a blower
could easily fit itself under the hood with out anyone knowing
and if anyone asks what the whine is, i got a gear drive.

oh well
john

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 13:57:28 -0800
From: Michael <mbs2@Ra.MsState.Edu>
Subject: Re: 455 won't stay running(second round)

    OK, this is interesting.  Two ideas come to mind; the first is that the
float
isn't sitting properly--the suggestion to pull apart the carb is something I
would
definatly do.  A second idea is the notion that the timing chain has
slipped,
resulting in a mismatch b/w the stroke of the pistons and the positions of
the
valves (don't panic, its not that hard to replace).  If the mist from the
carb
pulsates at all (gets greater & lesser) the chain explaination has further
support. If its steady, however, then we appear to be looking at an
inablility of
the carb to deal with the incomeing gas.  That points to the float again, or
some
other carb component, and a re-rebuild (30 bucks).  All of this assums that
yur
fuel pump is factory spec, not electric (e fuel pumps can have really high
pressure levels, I could imagine one causing mist to come from the
carb--what is
the pressure level of yur gas line? Make sure its factory spec).
    The valve job question is lower in likelyhood in my eyes; given the cost
of
getting the heads done & the symptoms you report, I'd focus on other
possibilities
first.
    Keep us posted.

   Regards,
   Michael

Mikeytvb@aol.com wrote:

> ok......i forgot to tell all of you guys the whole story.  it has a brand
new
> fuel pump.  the carb came off a 70 350 in a junk yard, which was just
rebuilt.
> the fuel tank was cleaned and reinstalled.  oil change with filter.  one
day
> old gas.  new cap and wires.  i have checked the distributer dwell and
> timing(today).  still putts.  tomorrow i will hook up the dead cylinder
tester
> and maybe something good will happen.  also, when it runs, fuel sprays out
the
> carb.  not like a steady stream, but more like a mist.  this is why i
think it
> needs lifters or a valve job.
>
> mikey tvb@aol.com
> cutlass w/403

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 14:14:19 -0800
From: Michael <mbs2@Ra.MsState.Edu>
Subject: Re: 57 olds won't start

Hi Douglas,

    First question--are the plug getting any spark?  Put on a heavy set of
gloves and hold a wire close to a plug to see if you get any spark (a
blanket
hanging down from the hood can provide the shade you need to see).  If now,
the
problem is somewhere up the chain of ignition power.  You may also want to
pull
out several or all the plugs to see if they are majorly fouled up
(blackened)
and therefore not firing.  If so you could clean the w/ some sandpaper.
Both
tests can help narrow down the possibilities.
    Regarding the intake manifold, I generally wouldn't think of not using
sealer, but eithor way the result of a vacum leak would be poor running, not
*nothing,* ya know?  At least I don't *think* so.
    One qualifier--my experience is with V8s from '68-'74, so I may be
missing
something.

   Regards,
   Michael

Douglas Watts wrote:

> I need some help with my Dad's 57 olds. It had a j-2 set up and ran ok but
> would occasionally pop back thru the carb. Dad had a spare distributor
> rebuilt and had me install it. He didn' t have the correct j-2 linkage and
> so decided to go back to a 4bbl set up with rebiult carb. We installed
> steel shim style manifold gaskets with the correct side up but no rtv
> sealing compound. When we tried to start the car we got nothing. we
matched
> up every inginition wire etc. with his other running 57. We switched
> distributors back, set the distributor 180 degrees from where we started
> and still nothing. I don't have much experience with oldsmobiles. I am
more
> familiar with small block Fords. I know they are very fussy about manifold
> and carb gasket vacuum leaks.  Should we have used rtv to seal the intake
> manifold? Are there any other things we may have overlooked that could be
> the problem? Thanks in advance for your help.
> Doug - Cincinnati

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 12:17:09 PST
From: "john foster" <anyasbbj@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: No start

>
>     I've got some strange no start problems with my Ch%vy
>Suburban...hey it's not an Olds but it does have HEI (non
>computerized) and a non computer carb (Holley) so the info crosses
>over! Sometimes it'll crank (always fast..starter and battery are
>good) but won't fire......leave it for a while (1/2-1 hr) and then it
>starts right up. It's done it 3-4 times so far.....once it did it on
>the first start of the day! That time it started 5 mins later....
>     I think the HEI module may be failing intermittently. Ideas?
>Coil? Pickup?

i have a 79 suburban as well and let me tell you when the electrical
starts going it starts doing all kinds of weird things. when my hei went
out it would start up just fine and in about 5 to 10 second it would
just die. if you really played with the gas you could keep it going but
man was it rough. i must have torn every part out of that damb thing but
the electrical because it bit the hell out of me when i checked  it so i
knew(thought) it had spark so that didn't even occur to me.
   my bet would be to check the usual, getting gas, ect. and if all else
fails change the chip and pick up. i think the chip was like $28 or so
and the pick up wasn't very much at all so might as well change them
both while everything is out.
good luck
john


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 17:22:45 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: To '69 H/O lovers

Hello all.

Got a question for any of you that either owns a '69 H/O, or knows
someone who does, and can't find an air cleaner assembly for it.  Would
there be an interest in a reproduction ram air cleaner shroud with
flapper that fits these cars?  Metal, as original.  I'm talking to a
manufacturer now about it now.  If I get several made, it wouldn't be
near as expensive as just a couple, naturally.  The goal is, to get
around 30 made, to keep the costs fairly reasonable.  Still wouldn't be
real cheap, but not as expensive as an original that you can find, if
you can find it.  These units also suffered rust out also, since they
were made of metal and water always seemed to find it's way into the air
cleaner.

It seems these shrouds went the way of the dodo bird, and are rare as
hen's teeth.  If there's enough interest, then I think these parts can
be made reasonably.  Just fishing for interest.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 17:45:43 EST
From: Mr57olds@aol.com
Subject: Re: 57 olds won't start

In a message dated 98-02-05 22:23:32 EST, you write:

<< I need some help with my Dad's 57 olds. It had a j-2 set up and ran ok
but
would occasionally pop back thru the carb. >>
Do you have spark??   If not, run jumper wire from + batt to + side of coil.
You may have a loose wire from ign switch.
mr57olds

54olds
57olds
64 442 conv
98intrigue

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 17:15:31 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Re: take me off your spam list now!

IS THIS GUY ON THE SAME LIST I AM??? I'VE HAD LOTS OF GOOD INFO COME FROM
HERE!!!


Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 17:05:39 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Trunk Stripes?

> from the factory with trunk stripes? Same stripes as on the OAI hood but
also
> on the trunk. Big wide ones.
>
>      Yep.  The 70 Ralley 350 and the 70 Y74 Indy Pace Car replicas.
>
Joe, I was not aware the Rallye 350 had the "chevelle" type stripes
too.  All the ones that I've seen just had the thin stripes outlining
the trunk lid (on the quarter panel tops).  Am I missing something?  I
haven't seen one, but that doesn't mean it wasn't available. Hmmm.
Learn something new everyday.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 16:58:33 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Water Pump Question for anyone online now!!!

O.K., this is weird...My 68 442 has a"generic" 455 68-72, no idea what
year...J heads so I imagine it's a 73+. Anyway...I went to my local parts
store and bought a water pump for a 71 455, guessing there was little or no
difference...WRONG!!! The pulleys were way off, we went through 5 or six
other water pumps and found out that the 68 400 water pump measured
correctly, the only visible difference was the size of the water port
channels. The timing chain cover has small ports that match the water pump
but I'm worried about the cooling implications. I assume the reason this
was done when the 455 was installed originally was for radiator clearence
as the 68 shaft was a good 1/2" shorter.

Let me know as soon as possible if anybody's out there!

THANX!

SCOTT WHEELER
68 442 CONV
DALLAS

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 15:06:39 -0800
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Air Bags and stuff...

I was forced to take the H/O out of hibernation a few weeks early this
past weekend since the truck broke a u-joint.  Fortunately the weather
has been very mild, just rain, and they don't use salt up here anyhow.
Man it's a relief to drive a *real* car again, especially since I was
stick with a rental mini-van for the last week on a business trip.
Contrary to what you'd think from most of the drivers around here, I
learned that mini vans *do* have turn signals, they *can* make a right
turn and not end up in the left lane, they have remarkably good
visibility, and can (at least for the Trans-Sport) get out of their own
way.

On to the Olds stuff....  The last thing I did to the H/O before waking
it up was replace the factory air shocks with KYBs (already had KYBs on
the front) and install a set of air bags in the rear springs.  I must
say I'm VERY impressed.  I'd recommend this upgrade to anyone with rear
air shocks.  The car handles and rides much better, and even with the
air bags deflated the car sits at a perfect height with an empty trunk
(which required a few psi in the air shocks to obtain before).  It was
kinda a bitch getting the driver's side shock off (Tip:  Those are 13mm
bolts, not 1/2"!  And remove the exhaust hanger to get at the top nuts),
but the new ones went right in, and the air bags took all of 10 minutes
to install.

Took out bolts in the bottom of the bumper to put in the air bag filler
valves and ran the lines through the frame and down the shock (used one
tie-wrap per side on the top part of the shock).  I've been playing with
the air bags to see what they can do, and they can really stiffen up the
rear end.  Hauling 200 lbs of computer equipment around and the car sat
and handled just fine.  By only airing up the right side I can preload
for more traction at the drag strip (not that I've been there...
yet....), and by stiffening up both it really gets rid of a lot of the
understeer that the car used to have.  I think that with the air shocks
when you cornered it would compress the outside one and transfer the air
to the inside shock, causing the car to sway.  The air bags are on
sepparate lines and don't do this.  Coupled with the rather stiff KYB
shocks the car handles GREAT!

Oh, and while in Sandpoint I saw a mid 70's cutlass, 4WD, about 4 feet
off the ground, with big-'ol mud tires.  Bizzarre!  I might get pictures
when I go back next week if it's still in the same driveway.

- --
Tom Lentz, tlentz@ior.com                        '84 Hurst/Olds #2118
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz                       '78 Cutlass Supreme
Network Admin, CPM Corp, Spokane, WA.            '78 Chev 1/2ton (Olds
350)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 18:35:44 -0500
From: Rotten <olds442@en.com>
Subject: A Mole hill of olds heads

Just got back from my big trip to the "mountain".. It turned out to be a
mole
hill..
The guy had afew "J"'s and "B"'s big block wise and "10"'s and "4"'s small
block
wise.
It turns out he bought a truck load from Lubrizol in 1971 and has been using
them
little by little as he needed them.  The mountain is down to less than 20
castings.  The only bright spot were the brand new "B" castings that havent
even
been stamped.They looked like he took em off the shelf at the factory
yesterday.
Seats havent even been cut into them.  Other than the spiffy "B"'s my trip
was a
bust..

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 17:38:05 -0600
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: 73-76 Full Size Brakes?

Does anyone know if the brakes on the 73-76 Big cars (88/98) are
interchangeable with any other models?  And if not, why not?  The wagons
had some HUGE brakes, and it would be nice to yank my G-Body down faster
or any other A-Body or Big car from 77-up.

I know the 77-96 B-Body (Impala SS, Caprice, 88/98, LeSebre/Electra,
Bonneville/Pariesienne) shared chassis with the 73-77 A-Body.  And
possibly earlier than that on other models like the 70 Grand Prix.  So
that is a help (be aware of the 78 changes and the 80-up changes)

I would like to snag some HD brakes from a Custom Cruiser with the 12 to
13 in drums or the 12in rotors.

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 18:43:12 EST
From: TERMO1L@aol.com
Subject: Need Help

       Well it was a hassle for a kid to do alone but I finally got my 330
reinstalled.  I am having trouble finding the rubber grommets for my PCV and
Breather.  Does anyone know where I could get some from?  Its a '66.  Also
any
advice about installing a knew distributer?  IU am going to have trouble I
can
tell.  The car is ready to go except plugs wires and exhaust.  Will it hurt
my
car if I put the distibuter in wrong and try to start it?  The hardest part
so
far is trying to get that damn thing figured out.  Any help would be great.

  Is anyone good at determining if a car is going to perform well?  I had
the
Low Comp 330 and it was alright but kind of slow.  Since I have had the
motor
rebiuld, HC pistons put in.  A slightly bigger cam.  Performer manifold,
Holley 600 and will be adding dual exhaust next week.  I also put in new
alternater,  Dist., transmission cooler.  Did I waste the nearly two grand I
have spent?  Will it be pretty fast?  I have a crappy little Jetaway and a
2.73 rear.  Thats next years project.



Thanks sorry its so long

Mike
'66 F85
'81 88

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1088
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