To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1066


oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, January 21 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1066



Re: 68/69 trunk opening, roadtrip etc?
Re: Tach
442's and Cutlass(es) and others for sale
vaccum leak
'66 Cutlass Convertible gas tank
Re: 68/69 trunk opening, roadtrip etc?
66 Cutlass convertible
Re: 442 Key Blank
Re: FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro
Re: Lower Rad Hose Position
Re: Hood question
Re: Bryceman's page
Re: Tach
Re: Plugging my EGR valve?
Re: Lower Rad Hose Position
Re: Bryceman's page
Re: '66 Cutlass Convertible gas tank
Re: '66 Cutlass Convertible gas tank
Re: Lower Rad Hose Position
Re: 442 Key Blank
Crankscrapers
Re: '66 Cutlass Convertible gas tank
Re: 66 Cutlass convertible
TH-350 Trans Blueprints
EGR on 1979 H/O
Dual Exhaust on 1979 H/O
Re: 68/69 trunk opening, roadtrip etc?
Re: Axle Ratio
Passenger Mirror
Re: Olds 330 info
Re: Passenger Mirror
Re: 1969 88 Insurance Rip Off
Re: Bryceman's page
Re: Dual Exhaust on 1979 H/O
Re: Passenger Mirror
Re: 68/69 trunk opening, roadtrip etc?
subscribe oldsmobile
RE: Axle Ratio
Re: Tach
75 Starfire for Sale
Re: Plugging my EGR valve?
Valve covers and Tach
Re: Dual Exhaust on 1979 H/O
Re: Dual Exhaust on 1979 H/O
Re: Crankscrapers
resubscribing help!
Tick Toc Tach
Re: Olds 330
Re: 1975 Delta 88 Royale
Re: what can go wrong (mostly non-olds)
quad 4 back again
re: Front Suspension Rebuild Advice
Anybody out there running a holley?
Test, don't read
Re: '66 Cutlass Convertible gas tank
Test, don't read
Hot engine problem
TH 350 governor
Re: Rear Axle Arm Swap
Re: Bryceman's page
Re: Hot engine problem
J&M in CA
Re: Axle Ratio
a real puzzler
Karl's Law [ was: Green's Law ( was: What can go wrong { was.... } ) ]

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 22:20:16 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 68/69 trunk opening, roadtrip etc?

Patrick,

No the deck lids are not interchangable btwn 68 & 69. Totally different
design. Depending on exactally where your rusted out though you might
be able to cut the channel out of a 68 (subject to being a parts car already
of course) and graft areas where needed. ????

You say your from Detroit area ??  where abouts
I live in Southgate  (Downriver) and also am the proud owner of a
69 442.

Have a local club recently formed (VERY LOOSE ORGANIZATION) called
the Detroit Street Rockets.  If your into performance at all you'd be welcomed
to hook up with us. Next scheduled meeting is at a fellow members house
on Feb. 6 out in Northville.

Jist of club is to have fun 'USING" our cars with performance enhancement as
the
focal point of the group.  NO DUES / NO NEWSLETTERS - just doing it.....

Regards,
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 23:05:29 -0500
From: Jim Hurd <jhurd@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: Re: Tach

At 03:24 PM 1/20/98 EST, you wrote:
>Dan:
>
>The tach on my '86 has trouble too, measures exactly DOUBLE the number of
>revs/minute the engine is actually turning.   According to my friendly dealer
>(who ran diagnostics) the problem is in the display unit itself and not the
>sending equipment or wiring.
>
>Unfortunately, GM quit making the unit in '90 and I've been looking all over
>the east coast for a used unit and finally found one.  Can't imagine the
>trouble you'll have  finding a unit for your '70 but this is the route you'll
>probably have to take.
>
>Cheers!
>
>Allen Eastlake
>J.Y. Angel ('86 4-4-2)
>Reston Valdez ('83 Volvo GL Sedan)
>

        I have this same problem on my '87 Salon.  I don't know if it is
exactly double or not though.  I remember seeing in a couple of places
(Bryceman's and a service manual) on how to correct this problem.  I think
if you pull the guage out there are some "contacts" on the back.  Connection
between the top and middle is for a V8 and connection between the bottom and
middle is for a V6.  I think it works something like this.  Can anyone
verify this for me?




Jim H.
'87 Salon

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 23:01:28 EST
From: DKlauber <DKlauber@aol.com>
Subject: 442's and Cutlass(es) and others for sale

With the auctions hitting Phoenix the last two weekends there are a lots of
nice AZ Olds for sale in the auto trader.  I thought some people might be
interested in what is out here.  I did make it to Barrett-Jacksons and there
was a ª1 70 442  W-30 conv, red, ...but I think the reserve was 25+K's, some
other nice one's also.  69 442 W-30 conv restored for around 21K.  Have not
gone to the web to see if they sold or not yet.  If interested go to the
Barrett-Jackson web site...pretty cool page and well worth checking out.
71 442 100% restrored, AC, ps,pb,pw,tilt, matching ª $8500 602-820-4566
This car is on the cover (color)  and looks very nice!
72 Cutlass Supreme conv. 350,at,ac,ps.pb, straight body, clean int, $4300obo
602-866-8086
72 Cutlass conv. $3750 offer? 520-297-1016
79 Cutlass Supreme $3500 obo 520-474-7019
77 Toronado $2750 602-230-9204
77 Cutlass Sedan $12,500 602-861-4934
71 Cutlass conv restored 78Kmi $14,500obo 602-945-5055
65 Cutlass $1650 602-437-1677
76 442 $6250 602-923-1041
71 Cutlass Supreme conv appraised at $10k, best reasonable offer 602-926-4940
83 Hurst Cutlass...recovered theft, no engine or trans $1100 602-437-1677
65 Cutlass 330 95% restored, ac, ps,at $5995obo 602-982-3013
62 F85 215V8 conv, at,ps,$6500obo 520-274-6965
62 Olds 88 32k mi.  $9000obo 602-996-4910
66Toronado $4450obo 602-465-5307
49 Olds 98 $7950 800-716-9399
62 Starfire $16985!! 602-905-3707
58 Olds Super 88 Conv $35,700obo 602-788-0729
61 super 88 27K mi $11,985 602-905-3707

Sorry but I got tired of typing...if you need other info call them or email me

DKlauber@aol.com
71 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 20:13:09 -0800 (PST)
From: PSHENG@scuacc.scu.edu
Subject: vaccum leak

I found a vaccum leak on my car, and I want to alert others who may have
it too.  I took the dashpot (that stupid smog thing that bolts onto the
manifold in front of the carb and kicks up the idle speed during high
vaccum conditions) off, and noticed that the bolt that holds it onto the
manifold is threaded all the way throug the runner.  If anyone has one of
these on your manifold, I would reccomend unbolting it, throwin' some
teflon tape around the bolt threads, and slappin' it back on.  Made my
idle a bit smoother.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 22:14:33 -0600
From: "Daniel S and Michelle Carlson" <carlson@paulbunyan.net>
Subject: '66 Cutlass Convertible gas tank

I have been looking for a gas tank for a 66 cutlass convertible with a 330
engine.  Is there any out there?

Dan
66 Olds Cutlass convertible (being restored)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 98 21:19:14 PST
From: "chris smetana" <chris@abcs.com>
Subject: Re: 68/69 trunk opening, roadtrip etc?

Is this the one that the guy wanted like peanuts for.  Something like $600 or
$700. It sounded like a good deal before and apparently looks like it is.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
chris@abcs.com

1969 Cutlass S W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others
AND a new (to me) 94 GMC Sonoma to commute to work in

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 22:17:58 -0600
From: "Daniel S and Michelle Carlson" <carlson@paulbunyan.net>
Subject: 66 Cutlass convertible

I do not see much written about this car.  How popular was it, or what's
the word on it?  Any problems I should be aware of?

Dan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 16:51:21 -0500
From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: 442 Key Blank

Is this true? I never knew this about the 80 442. If so I need to find a key
like this as I don't have it nor have I ever seen it. Mike do you have pictures
of your car online? I would like to know more about it. Thanks.

Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) Akron, OH
95 DCM Impala SS
80 Olds 442 W-30


>I'm the original owner of a 1980 442 W-30. When these cars were ordered, a
>special ignition key for the car was sent out a couple of weeks before the
>car was even finished being built. This key has a plastic inlay on each
>side of the key head. One side is red with a gold Oldsmobile emblem in it,
>the other is red with a gold 442 emblem in it. Unfortunatly my key was lost
>in a lake. Anyone know where I'd be able to get a key blank like this?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 12:30:01 -0800
From: "mr. coy d. arbogast" <coyster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro

Hello there.
This is Coy, it will be about 10 days before our first set of vinyl stripes
will be ready as we are currently retooling.
I will send you a set and some other information when they are ready.
Also if you are interested in putting a link on our web page let me know.
Look forward to working with you.
Thanks

- ----------
> From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro
> Date: Monday, January 19, 1998 5:50 PM
>
> At 04:58 PM 1/16/98 -0500, you wrote:
> Ken
>
>         Sorry don't have any of those in stock right now. May be getting
> some in near the end of the month.
>
> Jim Chermack
> C&M Classic Parts
> (757)474-0869
>
> >James and Joanne
> >
> >1966 post-coupe 442
> >
> >It wasn't on your list of parts ... BUT
> >I am desperate to find the piece that
> >attaches the steering coumn to the dash.
> >It is probably called a steering column
> >mount bracket, support, something like that.
> >
> >As I was working on wiring, I happened to look up
> >and there it was, a rusted piece of metal strap
> >holding the steering column in place.
> >Pa leeeez ... have a real mounting bracket.
> >
> >Ken Swick
> >
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 17:42:52 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Lower Rad Hose Position

- -----Original Message-----
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, January 20, 1998 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: Lower Rad Hose Position


>> I noticed that on my '69 Cutlass "S" 350 the lower rad hose pushes
slightly
>> against the exposed threads on the end of idler arm bolt
<snip>
>Yes, Lloyd, I've experienced the exact same problem - in my '76 Monte
Carlo
>with a 305 SB Chevy engine even!  It would seem that GM didn't
consider this
>possibility too much when designing the hoses.  And all aftermarket
hoses
>blindly follow the design that has been set in place
<snip>

I must have gotton lucky on my 69. There's about 5/8" clearance. It's
definitely a formed hose, but I don't know who made it. It's probably
a stackup problem between vehicle assembly and part variations. The
design clearances under hood are supposed to be 5/8" minimum, but I
know of lot's of cases where the platform engineers just say F**** It,
it's close enough.

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S convertible
OCAª 29770
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 14:55:14 -0800
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Hood question

Coy,

> If you need a 68 hood let me know i have an extra one from my project.
> It has the 2 chrome louvers on the side and the rear vent.
> Raised hood.
> Thanks Coy

How much?  What kind of shape is it in?  Where are you located?

Later...

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 18:05:25 +0500
From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Subject: Re: Bryceman's page

>For the last 4-5 days I've been unable to log onto Bryceman's page @442.com to
>scan the classified and oldsmobilia.

>Is something wrong with my computer or is this a problem at the site?

I just tried it and it looks fine from here.  It uses an image map, do you
think maybe your browser has the java disabled or something like that?
Maybe it's not set to load images?

Here's the adress to link directly to the classifieds in case you need your
fix before you can get things fixed. :)

http://www.442.com/oldsads.html

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Surpeme
80 Cultass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 17:58:46 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Tach

> The tach on my '86 has trouble too, measures exactly DOUBLE the number of
> revs/minute the engine is actually turning.

Allen, I would imagine the dealer didn't steer you wrong, so I'm not
gonna say you had the same problem I did,  but I had a similar
experience with my '85 442 tach after about 5 years.  It read double
what actual RPMs were.  It turned out that there was a little jumper
mounted on the back of the tach itself that wiggled loose.  This jumper
configuration (I don't remember off-hand what the settings were exactly,
but it's in the service manual) has to be set for different cylinders.
I pushed it back on tight, and RPMs went back to normal.

Informational 2 cents.
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 23:30:58 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Plugging my EGR valve?

><< You can either replace your current carb with a pre-EGR carb, or
 [snip]
>well now, i am running a '80 quadrajet on my '72 350 with an open element and
>no egr.  so im thinking maybe i can get some jets out of an older carb?  is it
>possible to just swap them out?  if i can, it will be done!  i have had a
>little taste of detonation every now and then and its very annoying.  now
Replacing the jets with ones from an older carb will not be the answer, most
likely (though they'll swap out), since the jets in the emissions-era carbs
were pretty big to begin with (in fact, and older carb might have smaller
jets, making matters worse if they were swapped in).

The jetting on a Q-jet involves not only the jets, but the tapered metering
rods that ride in and out of that jet. With the EGR carbs, GM tended to go
with larger jets, and even *larger* diameter rods, so the effective area of
the jet at most points in the metering rod's travel was smaller, but could
be very rich when the thin end of the rod was in the jet.

What you'd need is a set of rods that will give you richer operation under
part-throttle load, so you're looking at a set of rods with a thinner
tapered section.

Here's the bad news: the pre-EGR carbs ("70xxxxx"-series), with the rods
you're looking for, used a different style of primary metering rods than the
'80 carb you've got (which is a "170xxxxx" series carb); those are the only
tuning items that don't interchange (jets and secondary rods do).

Now, there are thinner-taper "170xxxxx" series rods available, but you've
got to do your homework first as to what rods and jets you've got in there
now, and what carbs might have the rods you're looking for.

A couple other options: 1) You could start with a "70xxxxx" series carb as a
baseline, as its fuel curve would be calibrated for the pre-EGR setup you've
got. Or 2) get the Edelbrock tuning kit that they've got for the '75 and
later Q-jets; it's about $100, but would have a range of primary rods with
which you could fine-tune your carb.

that
>i put on headers, i cant tell the difference between the exhaust and pinging.
>so im always a little uptight as to whether or not its detonating.  that knock
>sensor msd makes looks pretty sweet, so i might give it a try too.

Pinging costs hp, as well as damaging your engine, that knock sensor would
be a nice addition; is it universal, or is there one designed for the
specific frequencies detonation would produce inside an Olds V-8?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 23:31:03 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Lower Rad Hose Position

>> I noticed that on my '69 Cutlass "S" 350 the lower rad hose pushes
 [snip]
>
>Yes, Lloyd, I've experienced the exact same problem - in my '76 Monte Carlo
>with a 305 SB Chevy engine even!  It would seem that GM didn't consider this
>possibility too much when designing the hoses.  And all aftermarket hoses

My Cutlass hose doesn't rub, but the hose on my former '76 Monte did. It had
a slit rubber hose that was tie-wrapped to the lower hose at the point where
it would rub. This was done very neatly; almost looked like it was produced
that way. Whatever the case, I had no trouble with that hose with that
protector in place. Heck, if you use black tie-wraps, I doubt anyone would
ever notice it.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 23:43:10 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Bryceman's page

COUPE KING wrote:

> Is something wrong with my computer or is this a problem at the site? Anybody
> else having troubles getting to this page? Need my classified fix!

I haven't had any trouble accessing it with msn.com and Netscape
recently.  Actually I hit the site last night and this morning.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 21:53:49 -0700
From: Tim Rudolph <trudolph@frii.com>
Subject: Re: '66 Cutlass Convertible gas tank

At 10:14 PM 1/20/98 -0600, you wrote:
>I have been looking for a gas tank for a 66 cutlass convertible with a 330
>engine.  Is there any out there?
>

Fusick (860-623-1589) lists a gas tank for 1964-67 Cutlass/442 applications
for $225.. might be worth a call.

Tim Rudolph
trudolph@frii.com
'69 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 01:07:26 EST
From: BIG JERMES <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: '66 Cutlass Convertible gas tank

In a message dated 98-01-21 00:28:28 EST, you write:

<< I have been looking for a gas tank for a 66 cutlass convertible with a 330
 engine.  Is there any out there?
  >>

well, id say just look for a tank off any f-85 or cutlass.  they should be all
the same gas tanks, i think.  might havta change out the sending units though.
(on the tank)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 01:26:10 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: Lower Rad Hose Position

> a stackup problem between vehicle assembly and part variations. The
> design clearances under hood are supposed to be 5/8" minimum, but I
> know of lot's of cases where the platform engineers just say F**** It,
> it's close enough.
> Mick Gillespie

That reminds me of a comic strip I saw recently of two technicians
standing in front of a new car and the one says to the other: "No, we're
gonna have to redesign this, I can still see ª2 spark plug back
there...perhaps if we put a cover on here or extend that exhaust manifold
outwards a bit...."

=B)  Just a bit of smile-power.
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
468 BigBlock '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 01:03:50 -0600
From: mls@wwa.com
Subject: Re: 442 Key Blank

>This is a long shot but a fella I know in Akron, OH is heavy into all kinds
>of keys and things.  I think he even runs ads in JWO.  He is worth a call
>because he goes to all the shows and swap meets in the Midwest and he buys
>up old stock.
>
>Call: Joey Jester
>(330) 376-8181

Thanks for the information. I'll give him a call.

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 02:21:41 EST
From: COUPE KING <COUPEKING@aol.com>
Subject: Crankscrapers

Bought a pile of pistons from a fellow and included in the box were a bunch of
'crankscrapers' by Kenne Bell co.
What is the purpose of the crankscraper?
Of any use in street application motors?

If anybody is interested in some of these, email me privately

Peter
CoupeKing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 02:33:42 EST
From: RCKTPWR <RCKTPWR@aol.com>
Subject: Re: '66 Cutlass Convertible gas tank

the only dif is the sending units....f85 and....well 400 has 2 fuel lines, 330
had 1
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 02:35:44 EST
From: RCKTPWR <RCKTPWR@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 66 Cutlass convertible

only the 67 are worth restoring..........ha ha ha
Bernie
67 442 conv
67 f-85
86 Salon

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 03:04:21 -0500
From: Gerald Hughes <ghughes@hughesconsulting.com>
Subject: TH-350 Trans Blueprints

Hey there fellow Oldsmobilers!

Where is the best place (best $$) to get a blueprinting book on a 1979
TH-350 so I can tear it down and rebuild it?

Gerald Hughes

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 03:06:50 -0500
From: Gerald Hughes <ghughes@hughesconsulting.com>
Subject: EGR on 1979 H/O

Olds Nuts,

I have a 1979 H/O and I'm buying an Edelbrock Performer intake and I
want to block off the EGR.  I have the Edelbrock Performer ª1405
carburetor.

Can I just plug the EGR line from the Carb and then use the EGR
blockoff plate?  Is this the extent of my fixit?  Or is there more to
it?

Gerald Hughes

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 03:09:29 -0500
From: Gerald Hughes <ghughes@hughesconsulting.com>
Subject: Dual Exhaust on 1979 H/O

Dear Fellow Oldsmobile Psycho's,

Where may I find a Trans Crossmember that would have a dual hump for
dual exhaust on my (G Body????)  1979 H/O??  Does the Monty SS
crosmember have two humps?  Do I have to go aftermarket, or is there a
model that would have one stock I could transplant?

Gerald Hughes

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 19:00:26 +0900
From: James Zito <jimzito@uriel.net>
Subject: Re: 68/69 trunk opening, roadtrip etc?

They don't match exactly,  since the taillights changed between 68 and 69.
This means that the lower corners and the deck lids wouldn't work.
Sorry the arts isn't the world's best.

*****************             ******
*           *           *            *      *
*****************             *      *
           68                       ******
tail light                           69

Jim,
69 442 conv
Patrick Derkacz wrote:

> I recently picked up a 69 442.  The trunk opening( where the
> weatherstrip mounts) is rusted out, so I am looking to scavenge one from
> a parts car.  Does anyone know if it would be the same for a '68?  Are
> the decklids interchangeable between years?  If so, you would think the
> trunk opening would be the same, right?
>
> By the way,this is the car that Aaron posted a few weeks ago under save
> the 442.  My brother,a friend and I drove his D*dge Ram to Atlanta from
> Detroit last weekend picked up the car and drove back. Left at 7:30 Fri.
> night and got back Sunday about 1:30 am, about 30 hours later.(Can you
> say roadtrip)
>
> Sweet deal on the car, White, red interior, original motor and trans,
> 3.23 posi, solid floor and trunk pans.  Fender and quarters have the
> traditional rust, doors are excellent, AC,PW, extra 455 and two sets of
> '69 442 grilles in the box from year one (list @ $300/set).
>
> so I am starting another frame off resto
>
> patrickd@wwnet.com
> 69 442 conv(with new grilles)
> 69 442(about to be restored)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 17:58:24 +0500
From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Subject: Re: Axle Ratio

>Would would it take to change a 2:73 rear end (non posi) to 3:23 or
>3:42?  By change I mean keep the existing axle and change the "innerds".

Usually it takes a reputable mechanic since it requires very precise
measurements to get the gears set up just right.  The gears have to be
shimmed to adjust the clearences and pinion depth so everything is correct.
I don't know what the labor cost for this would be since I've never swapped
gears before.  The proper tools to install it can be bought from ASAP for
about $280, but it takes a lot of skill to do it right.

I've heard you can do it yourself if you swap the gears&shims from a rearend
that's already been set up.  Just install the hardware into the rearend you
want to use and the clearences should stay the same.  I personally wouldn't
feel right about doing something like that.  I would want to double-check
the measurements anyway and besides, for that amount of trouble you might as
well just swap axles.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 07:53:31 -0600
From: "Dr. D.A. Branch" <tree@datasync.com>
Subject: Passenger Mirror

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01BD2641.AAB8A800
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

This is my first time to write to the digest, I have been reading it =
everyday. So here I go!!!  I have a 69 Olds Cutlass S Convertible that =
has the 2 holes for a passenger side mirror on the door. I have talked =
to people who tell me it was a factory option and some people say they =
did not have one. My question is if it had one and some one has one I =
would like to buy it. If not my question is answered. Thanks Dennis =
Branch SR
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
E-Mail: tree@datasync.com
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
Web Site: http://www.datasync.com/~tree/
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>This is my first time to write to the digest, I have =
been=20
reading it everyday. So here I go!!!&nbsp; I have a 69 Olds Cutlass S=20
Convertible that has the 2 holes for a passenger side mirror on the =
door. I have=20
talked to people who tell me it was a factory option and some people say =
they=20
did not have one. My question is if it had one and some one has one I =
would like=20
to buy it. If not my question is answered. Thanks Dennis Branch =
SR</FONT></DIV>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 09:30:50 EST
From: TERMO1L <TERMO1L@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Olds 330 info

As for headers I tried all the big names and nobody has anything.  I am
wondering if it is worth the trouble and expense to mess with.  Anybody have
any experience with the Jetaway?  Thats what I am stuck with.  Does anyone
know for sure if a stall converter for the th350 &400 will fit this,  My gut
at the shop says yes but he's only 99%.  Anyone actually try it?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 98 09:35:33 GMT
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Passenger Mirror

Dennis Branch wrote:

This is my first time to write to the digest, I have been reading it everyday.
So here I go!!!

     Welcome and congrats for taking the plunge!

I have a 69 Olds Cutlass S Convertible that has the 2 holes for a passenger
side mirror on the door. I have talked to people who tell me it was a
factory option and some people say they did not have one. My question is if
it had one and some one has one I would like to buy it. If not my question
is answered.

     You may have caught the thread from the last few weeks, but yes, the
     passenger side mirror _was_ an option for the 68-69 cars.  It should
     be chrome with an oval head, like the driver's side unit.
     Unfortunately, this piece is somewhat hard to come by (no,
     unfortunately I don't even have one for my own 68).  If your car was
     so-equipped from the factory, the holes in the door should be keyhole
     shaped; simple round holes were likely the result of someone's attempt
     to install an aftermarket unit.

     Hope this helps.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 09:10:44 +0000
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs@flash.net>
Subject: Re: 1969 88 Insurance Rip Off

Tell the insurance company you want the car and the check.  You are
still the owner and they do not have a right to the car. They just take
the car and sell it to there friendly junk yard, who sell is to someone
who will fix the car and make a huge profit.  (It happened to me with my
first car a 1969 camaro.) Since then I have learned to tell them to give
me the money and I keep the car.

You ane in a good position since someone else damaged your car.  If the
insurance company is uncooperative.  complain to everyone.  The state
insurance agencies, the newspapers, TV etc.  They will come around.

And don't forget, the car may be worth more to you even without the $500

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 09:15:34 -0600 (CST)
From: Bryceman <bryceman@442.com>
Subject: Re: Bryceman's page

>COUPE KING wrote:
>
>> Is something wrong with my computer or is this a problem at the site?
>>Anybody
>> else having troubles getting to this page? Need my classified fix!
>

A few weeks ago my ISP moved my site from their fast Sun server to their
old (slower) Sun server to perform some upgrades and housecleaning on the
faster box. The two servers are in the same room but naturally have
different IP numbers. When my site was moved, my domain name (www.442.com)
was also redirected to the new location.
For any people out there who are having trouble getting to my site, the
problem is most likely with the Domain Name Server at your ISP. Your ISP's
DNS has a cache for all of it's Domain Names which should be deleted on a
regualr basis and rebuilt. If the ISP in question is not deleting the DNS
cache regularly, when you try to go to www.442.com, you get sent to the
server where my site _used_ to be.
The only solutions are to wait and hope your ISP gets around to deleting
the cache, or call them and ask them to do it.
Sorry for all of the confusion. Even when these DNS snafus are cleared up,
my site will still be slower because its riding on a slow, high traffic
server. When my ISP eventually gets upgrades and housecleaning done, I will
be back on the fast server so please bear with me. Thanks alot.

Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Oldsmobiles!
'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender
'65 442 Post Coupe
'65 Vista Cruiser
'72 H/O Convertible Pace Car Replica
Email: bryceman@442.com  URL: www.442.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 10:28:35 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Dual Exhaust on 1979 H/O

Gerald Hughes wrote:
>
>         Where may I find a Trans Crossmember that would have a dual hump for
> dual exhaust on my (G Body????)  1979 H/O??  Does the Monty SS
> crosmember have two humps?  Do I have to go aftermarket, or is there a
> model that would have one stock I could transplant?

First of all, all G-Bodies had a single-hump crossmember, I
believe.  This subject has come up before and the solution seems
to be to get a dual-hump crossmember out of a 70's Cutlass with
duals and trim the edges to git your G-Body.  There is a nice
write-up of this procedure in the Olds FAQ; check out
http://www.442.com to get it.

+---------------------------------------------------------------+
|__    ________|
|\ \  / __  __/Jason Adcock|
| \ \/ / / /CS Major, Virginia Tech|
|  \  / / /mailto:jadcock@vt.edu|
|   \/ /_/http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/|
||
+---------------------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 12:01:17 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Passenger Mirror

On Wed, 21 Jan 1998, Dr. D.A. Branch wrote:
> This is my first time to write to the digest, I have been reading it =
> everyday. So here I go!!!

See? Wasn't hard at all... ;-)

  I have a 69 Olds Cutlass S Convertible that =
> has the 2 holes for a passenger side mirror on the door. I have talked =
> to people who tell me it was a factory option and some people say they =
> did not have one. My question is if it had one and some one has one I =
> would like to buy it. If not my question is answered. Thanks Dennis =
> Branch SR

Your car had a mirror at one time if the holes are there. Yes, you
could get a manual right side mirror for these cars. I have a NOS one
still in the box on my parts shelf right now. They are getting scarce
but are out there. Did Fusick not say they would repro this? It may be
available from them. If not, someone here may be able to find a used
one for you.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 11:14:19 -0600
From: Patrick Derkacz <patrickd@wwnet.com>
Subject: Re: 68/69 trunk opening, roadtrip etc?

chris smetana wrote:
>
> Is this the one that the guy wanted like peanuts for.  Something like $600 or
$700.

Yes

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 09:35:08 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: subscribe oldsmobile

subscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 11:37:33 -0500
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: Axle Ratio

This is something that I have been playing with for a while. And this
past summer I bought a 2.73 posi unit to replace my 2.73 non-posi unit,
the entire axle, drum to drum. I wanted a posi unit because this is a
good basis to start from . Maybe next year I will change the gearing. I
want 3.73 but I'm not sure it will fit my carrier. I think there might
be a limit as to the size of gear and the carrier. Anyone know more on
this, please jump in...

Fernando Proietto
A/Manager
Systems Analyst - Informatics Division
Environment Canada
Atmospheric Environment Branch - Ontario Region
4905 Dufferin St.
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: Boogah[SMTP:Boogah@en.com]
> Sent: Friday, September 19, 1997 11:50 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Axle Ratio
>
> Would would it take to change a 2:73 rear end (non posi) to 3:23 or
> 3:42?  By change I mean keep the existing axle and change the
> "innerds".
>
>
> Thanks
>
> J. Wolfe
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 08:39:59 -0800
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Tach

Yes, that's what the problem was on my '84 H/O.  The tach would work fine
sometimes, but most of the time it read about 50% too high.  Pull the gauge
cluster and on the back left side (the driver's side) there's a clip that the
factory puts in place to get the gauge to read for 6 or 8 cylinders (it's 
marked
on the circuit board).  Pull that clip (I think you have to stick a small
screwdriver or something in from the side to release the clip) and clean the
contacts (both clip and PC board side) with a pencil eraser.  If needed, bend
clip a bit more to make better contact.  Reinstall, and mine's been okay for
over a year now.  Tach even works with my MSD unit now too!

Jim Hurd wrote:

> At 03:24 PM 1/20/98 EST, you wrote:
>         I have this same problem on my '87 Salon.  I don't know if it is
> exactly double or not though.  I remember seeing in a couple of places
> (Bryceman's and a service manual) on how to correct this problem.  I think
> if you pull the guage out there are some "contacts" on the back.  Connection
> between the top and middle is for a V8 and connection between the bottom and
> middle is for a V6.  I think it works something like this.  Can anyone
> verify this for me?

- --
Tom Lentz, tlentz@ior.com                        '84 Hurst/Olds ª2118
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz                       '78 Cutlass Supreme
Network Admin, CPM Corp, Spokane, WA.            '78 Chev 1/2ton (Olds 350)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 10:53:15 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: 75 Starfire for Sale

Hey gang, came across this in one of the local Car 4 sale catalogs if
anyone is interested.



1975 Olds Starfire, new Buick Grand National 3.8 Turbo, auto, lost
interest in this project, wheel flare kit from Diversified in
Detroit. $5000.00 invested, will sell best offer. 920-788-3080, Green
Bay, WI.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 11:52:59 EST
From: BIG JERMES <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Plugging my EGR valve?

In a message dated 98-01-21 01:22:27 EST, you write:

<< Pinging costs hp, as well as damaging your engine, that knock sensor would
 be a nice addition; is it universal, or is there one designed for the
 specific frequencies detonation would produce inside an Olds V-8? >>

Thanks for all the info!  the msd unit that warns you if you have detonation
"learns" the natural sounds of the engine.  im guessing maybe you would start
at a somewhat low advance setting to let it learn the sounds, then increase
advance untill the little leds start flashing or whatever.  there is a little
sensor you screw into the block, and a small computerized readout box you
mount somewhere in your interior.  if im not mistaken, it runs in summit for
around $175.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 12:02:39 EST
From: TERMO1L <TERMO1L@aol.com>
Subject: Valve covers and Tach

I am wondering if anyone knows if a set of valve covers from a 350 will fit a
330?  Are the heads the same?  Also I have never installed a tach does anyone
have any pointers on how to install one to my F-85?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 11:57:57 EST
From: BIG JERMES <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Exhaust on 1979 H/O

In a message dated 98-01-21 03:47:40 EST, you write:

<< Where may I find a Trans Crossmember that would have a dual hump for
 dual exhaust on my (G Body????)  1979 H/O??  Does the Monty SS
 crosmember have two humps?  Do I have to go aftermarket, or is there a
 model that would have one stock I could transplant? >>

Youll have to go custom on this one.  get a crossmember out of a earlier
cutlass with the double humps, and then find the instructions on how to put
duals on a '79 cutlass at the www.442.com site.  look in the faq section......
i just did this on my '78 cutlass and now i have dual 2.5" pipes with 2
chamber flowmasters.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 11:03:54 -0600 (CST)
From: Jeremy Lloyd Elder <jelder1@bigred.unl.edu>
Subject: Re: Dual Exhaust on 1979 H/O

When I had 2 1/4" dual exhaust put on my '82 Cutlass what the exhaust
shop actually did is cut a section out of the cross member and welded
in a section of pipe so that it functions just the same as a dual hump
member.  But if you want to keep everything nice and pretty that isn't
such a great option.

Jeremy "Sqk 'Em Off" Elder
'82 Cutlass, 455
'86 Cougar, 302

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 11:08:39 -0600 (CST)
From: Jeremy Lloyd Elder <jelder1@bigred.unl.edu>
Subject: Re: Crankscrapers

If you're talking about what I'm thinking you are a crank scraper
simply removes excess oil of of the crankshaft journals.  That ensures
that you have plenty of oil in reserve so it can be pumped in more
essential areas.

Jeremy "Sqk 'Em Off" Elder
'82 Cutlass, 455
'86 Cougar, 302

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 10:13:48 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: resubscribing help!

Can someone please respond to me and tell me again how to resubscribe?  I
sent the subscribe message to the major, but got no reply.  Oh, please
ignore the first subscribe message I sent to the list.  Damn computer
stuff.  Thanks Olds Folks.


Ray finally driving the 409 Rocket again Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 12:52:53 +0000
From: "Rick" <Richardc@equitrac.com>
Subject: Tick Toc Tach

Any one know where I can locate one or are they for sale.
1964 Olds 442 F-85
1987 Monte Carlo SS
Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 10:11:53 -0800
From: "mr. coy d. arbogast" <coyster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Olds 330

J&M speed Center is in Riverside california

- ----------
> From: TERMO1L <TERMO1L@aol.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Olds 330
> Date: Tuesday, January 20, 1998 6:07 PM
>
> I talked to Headman and they stopped making them five years ago. As for
the
> others I have not a clue how to get a hold of these companies.  Any info
on
> Jardine or J&M speed center in CA would be great

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 13:11:58 -0500
From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Subject: Re: 1975 Delta 88 Royale

At 09:48 PM 1/19/1998 -0500, you wrote:
>
>I have a 1975 Delta 88 Royale

>Another thing I would like to mention, if anyone has the factory
>Cruise Control and Power Door Lock mechanisms including correct switches,
>from a parts car or new repro, give me a shout.
>
>Thanks
>Warren Whitmore

Warren,

I have a '75 Delta 88, and I found out that the power door mechanisms from
a '75 Eldorado is a drop-in replacement for the '75 Delta, if that's any
help as you scour junkyards.



Dan


*********************************************
Dan Gulino
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
*********************************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 13:44:50 -0500 (EST)
From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu>
Subject: Re: what can go wrong (mostly non-olds)

Hello all,

It's been a while since I checked my mail (been very busy) so I only just
now was able to read these messages from a couple of days ago...
thoroughly enjoyed the thread... and sorry to continue an old thread, but
I just _HAD_ to add my own stories.  :-)  Sorry for the non-olds material,
you all will have to deal with it :-)  Send any flames to me personally
:-).

Well, let's start off with a "wires frying" story.  This concerns my first
car... a 1979 Honda Civic... nicknamed "Rusty" for obvious reasons.  I got
this car when I was 15... drove it a bit, drove my sister to and from
softball practice, drove around the neighborhood a lot... o' course
this was all before I even had my license.  :-)  Lived _WAY_ out in the
country though... my address was one town (Limestone, to the south), phone
number another (Jonesborough, to the east), and I went to school in Gray
which is north.  The postman came, turned around in our driveway, and went
back. The newspaper man came, turned around in our driveway, and went
back.  You get the picture.  The car was a 4 speed manual, and it took me
a little while to get used to it (especially since the gear locations were
_EXTREMELY_ vague, and the clutch never worked right.  On the good side,
it got to the point that I was the _ONLY_ person who could successfully
drive the car :-).  I guess, looking back on it, that little car was very
reliable for me... especially with all the sh*t that I put it through:
Completely took out a stop/road sign one time trying to avoid a head on
with a rather large _PINK_ Cadillac that was in _MY_ lane!  Hit an above
ground manhole cover in a parking lot... that shortened the frame by an
inch or two :-).  At one point in time, the bolts that held the shifter in
place (and basically kept the transmission itself in place broke... I duct
taped them :-).  Lasted for about two weeks until I could think of a
better soluction with a few "C" clamps :-).  Anyways, on to the point...
One time I cranked the car up, just like normal, was headed for school.
The key fell out in my hand after the car began to start... I looked and
realized I had been using the key to my dad's Subaru (the ignition in the
Honda was a _LITTLE_ worn).  The bad part... the starter remained on.  I
desperately tried to put the correct key in the ignition, but to no avail,
the ignition remained stuck in the start position.  I began smelling what
could not be anything besides burning wires!  Popped the hood and ran out
ot disconnect the battery... dammit cables are too tight... couldn't makem
budge.  Ran back to the car after a screw driver and pried the cables
(along with part of the now melting battery) off.  Starter finally quit...
but not before wearing itself out and frying half the wiring in the car!
Ever since then, I keep my battery cables just tight enough to stay on...
can _ALWAYS_ pull them off in case of trouble.  Except for the side post
on my Cutlass.


And now for a "Tire Passing Me on the Highway" story.  Well the
abovementioned Subaru that my dad had, later became mine when he bought a
nice '87 Volvo.  It was an '81, purple (actually supposed to be burgundy),
and had had a bit of a rough life but still ran fairly good (for a
Subaru).  Let me say at this point that I believe there _IS_ a God
somewhere, and he (or she) has something in store for me.  I say this
because, right before this incedent, I had been in the hospital with
meningitis _AND_ aspirated pneumonia... was in a coma for 3 days!  Less
than a week after being admitted, I was released, in tolerable health
(though I had to take anti-siezure medicine for a week or two).  It was
less than a month after that that this happened.  I was driving to Johnson
City (about a 30 mile trip then, I live in Johnson City now).  About the
time I neared the county line (otherwise known as the middle of nowhere) I
got near the Davy Crockett birthplace State Park.  I was going about 85+
on the 11-E, when all of a sudden, out of the blue, the left front wheel
and hub decided that I must have been going too slow and passed me.  Went
flying off to the left (some guy in a truck later tried to sue me saying
that the wheel took out his grill but that turned out to be a bunch of
bull) and I went flying off to the right.  Now the brakes on the Subaru
weren't exactly up to par in the first place, and the parking brake didn't
work, so I didn't get slowed down much before hitting the sharp end of the
guard rail at an intersection, and wrapping the entire front and d-side of
the car in guard rail.  Now, I've got to say, we can knock Subaru's as
much as we want to, call them "traps" and "rice-burners", but I was
extremely impressed with the car's crashworthiness.  The entire front end
was trash... motor in pieces, transaxle in pieces, but the damage stopped
abruptly at the firewall, and believe it or not, the windshield wasn't
even cracked.  The battery went THROUGH the hood and landed about 20 feet
in front of the car, and a full size floor jack that had been in the seat
behind me went through the driverside window (somehow without nailing my
head, don't know how) and landed outside the car.  The rescue crew that
showed up was absolutely amazed that I had lived, even moreso that I
wasn't even injured.  Luckily I had been wearing my seatbelt (I usually
didn't at that time).  Ever since then, I wear my seatbelt in any vehicle
I'm in (including my Oldsmobile which I'm sure we can all agree that
Oldsmobiles (and GM for that matter) have some of the least comfortable
seatbelts of any cars made).  Ironically, I had been on the way to a
doctor's appointment.

Enough running my mouth (keyboard) for now, talk to you later,
Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 13:52:36 -0500 (EST)
From: Shaun Miller <smille02@astro.ocis.temple.edu>
Subject: quad 4 back again

Guys,

were back again and i couldnt wait to get back.  on christmas break i
tinkered with the calais and this babys movin'.  Fixed that battery
problem and smoked the tires a few times to wake her up.  thanks to all
the q4 guys for keeping me up to date with calais/achieva info.  I also
heard the new alero was unveiled this month, has anyone seen it??  Lets
fire up the pocket rockets 1 more time.

shaun
q4 guru

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 13:17:16 -0600
From: Darrin Johnson <xdarrinj@ti.com>
Subject: re: Front Suspension Rebuild Advice

>  From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>, on 1/9/98 11:29 AM:
>

>  At the same time, check the bolt holes for obvious wear
>  and, if any is found, a little welding is necessary for safety.
>
>  Al Varhus
>  Columbus, Ohio
>  http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
>

I have recently replaced a damaged upper control arm on my 72 Cutlass
convertible.  Unfortunately, I discovered that a previous owner had
stripped out the ridges in the bolt holes that keep the mounting bolts
from turning in the frame bracket.  I was assuming that this would be an
inconvience during an alignment or other service, but now I am concerned
that it might also be a safety issue.  Any ideas?  Any suggestions on
how to repair?


Darrin Johnson
1972 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 14:58:01 EST
From: BIG JERMES <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Anybody out there running a holley?

hey, if any of you guys are running a holley, what size?  jet sizes?  i got a
holley quadrajet replacement carb in my garage, and i was thinking about using
it.  its a 650, spreadbore, and has dual accelerator pumps.  it will need a
rebuild, but im sure i can get a kit for it.  oh yea, this will be going on a
'78 cutlass with a '72 350.  i have an edelbrock intake and all that stuff, no
egr, and open element air cleaner, so im thinking this carb will run a little
richer than my '80 quadrajet.  what size jets and all do you guys use?  any
info would be great.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 12:06:07 PST
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Test, don't read

test

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 15:12:52 -0500
From: IRONMAN <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Subject: Re: '66 Cutlass Convertible gas tank

Hey look Rocketpower is back. Congrats!

Just want to let ya all know the pocket rocket is running extremely well in
this cold weather, must add 10 or 15 horse to her from the cold air. is it
right that cold air means horsepower? it must. i put a little message in my
3rd brake light recently, it's blacked out so when i hit the brakes all you
see is " 5 . WHAT" figure i would taunt some rustang drivers at the light
or something.

Have a good one

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 12:19:24 PST
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Test, don't read

Test

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 16:01:26 -0500
From: "John Richmond" <richmond@tir.com>
Subject: Hot engine problem

I think I figured out why my engine got so hot last week.
The engine fan was bound up against the fan shroud.
My question is how come all of a sudden the fan is
now rubbing against the shroud. Could it be the cold weather
caused the plastic to deform?

John Richmond
richmond@tir.com   or   jwr10@chrysler.com
Warren, MI
72 442/455

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 17:33:14 EST
From: Knightvd <Knightvd@aol.com>
Subject: TH 350 governor

I have a couple questions for anyone who has tinkered with a TH350 governor.
I have a TH350 behind my 455 in a 71 Cutlass Convert.

ª1.  It doesn't look like there is much clearance between the floor pan and
the tranny case.  Will the governor come out without dropping the tranny?

ª2.  I need to increase the shift points more than I can get by adjusting the
vacuum mod.  Are there any tricks to modifying the governor weights and
springs for higher shift points without having to buy one of the aftermarket
kits?

ª3.  Will tranny flluid pour out onto my face when I remove the governor?
(Not that I don't like the taste and smell of a good ATF bath, just curious)

Thanks for any reply,

Vince Knight

71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
knightvd@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 98 17:39:13 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: Rear Axle Arm Swap

At 16:21 1/19/98 -0800, you wrote:
>So, o.k., I'm still looking for confirmation on whether A-body and B &C
>body rear suspension
>arms swap. The years I'm interested in are the 68-72 Cutlii swapping into
>my 98 convertible
>coupe. I'm seeing repro parts for these popular a bodies and would like to
>put 'em in.
>
>Question is what are the dimensions of these arms? I have some j-yard C
>body arms from 65
>which I can measure against for a match.
>
>So does anybody have the dimensions of the rear suspension arms for the
>popular a bodies?
>
>Look forward to hearing from you.
>cf
>Christian Fair
>

      I'm not sure exactly which dimensions you are looking for but I
measured a set from my '69 4-4-2 from forward bolt hole center to rearward
bolt hole center.   The uppers were 10 1/4" and the lowers were 22 1/16".
If there are other demensions you need from them, let me know.


      Glenn
      '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 17:34:57, -0500
From: MTBB21B@prodigy.com (MR RYAN D SHERWOOD)
Subject: Re: Bryceman's page

unsubscribe oldsmobile      mtbb21b@prodigy,com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 17:17:30 -0600
From: Shang <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Re: Hot engine problem

John Richmond wrote:
>
> I think I figured out why my engine got so hot last week.
> The engine fan was bound up against the fan shroud.
> My question is how come all of a sudden the fan is
> now rubbing against the shroud. Could it be the cold weather
> caused the plastic to deform?
>
> John Richmond
> richmond@tir.com   or   jwr10@chrysler.com
> Warren, MI
> 72 442/455


Most likely, your motor mounts are movin south on you.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 18:06:41 EST
From: TERMO1L <TERMO1L@aol.com>
Subject: J&M in CA

I know where it is located but I am in WI does anyone know a number or address
of J&M speed center in Riverside CA?

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 18:33:11 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Axle Ratio

Proietto, Fernando [Ontario] wrote:
>
> want 3.73 but I'm not sure it will fit my carrier. I think there might
> be a limit as to the size of gear and the carrier. Anyone know more on
> this, please jump in...

I've seen (in Summit, etc) that they have all ratios for all
carriers.  For instance, I don't know what year axle or car we're
talking about here, but they have say a 3.73 gear for "either a
3.08 or numerically lower or a 3.23 or numerically higher
carrier".  I got that out of the most recent Jegs catalog.

+---------------------------------------------------------------+
|__    ________|
|\ \  / __  __/Jason Adcock|
| \ \/ / / /CS Major, Virginia Tech|
|  \  / / /mailto:jadcock@vt.edu|
|   \/ /_/http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/|
||
+---------------------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 19:05:16 -0500 (EST)
From: Gary Harrod <gharrod@alpha.wcoil.com>
Subject: a real puzzler

Okay gang, all you engine guy's put your thinking caps on. I have a
problem that I've never ran across before this. There is some background
info. on this 350 rocket engine. I bought a '77 Olds 350 rocket from the
guy next door for my '87 Olds Cutless. I went all the way through this
motor, bored 20 over,new rod and mains brg, new cam and lifters, timing
chain & gears the whole mess. Did the heads and everything. The only thing
that I didn't go new was the rocker towers and rockers them selves.
So here is my problem. Some times I get lifter noise. Its one
lifter making all the noise too. I can't tell when it'll make noise either.
Some times it will run for 40 mile with out making any noise. Then it'll
collapse. If I turn the engine off for about half hour it will be fine
then. It makes no sinse. Some times it makes noise some times it don't. I'm
going to try and use some heavier oil tomarrow. Moble 1 15w50  I'd like to
hear others ideas and thoughts about this. Thanks in advance

Gary Harrod
gharrod@alpha.wcoil.com
N.W.Ohio, in the U.S.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 19:28:47 EST
From: KarlAune <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Karl's Law [ was: Green's Law ( was: What can go wrong { was.... } ) ]

Hey Again!

Karl's Law;

The electrical component that you just replaced will flow enough current to
blow another electrical component that is more difficult to diagnose.

And now, the rest of the story.

I had swapped in a Super Coil and ballast resistor. Got it started Saturday
evening and drove Soylent around Sunday afternoon and Monday (to/from carpool
meeting place).

Tuesday morning. get out to the car about 5minutes later than I should have
done. Got settled. Pump the accelerator then turn ignition. She cranks but
does not quite start. No problem, its only 20 degrees out, but it ran OK
yesterday. Pump acccelerator and turn key. It cranks and almost starts but not
quite. He, no problem, I am almost there. Third time's the charm right?

Pump accelerator. Turn key. All of the idiot lights come on (normal), but
nothing else happens! There were no sounds at all (naturally I was listening
for the solenoid to click). About a minute later I try again. Same results.

I was actually cranking at first, so my battery is good. I checked the coil
connections that I made on Saturday, and they were all OK. The only thing that
I can think of is to drop the starter and clean it up as well as the
electrical connections.

A few days ago D. Brown commented that while someone was tinkering in the area
of the starter, they might as well check it and apply some dielectric grease.
Could someone elaborate on this? Is this a grease that conducts electricity?

Should I bother checking the connections at the ignition key (esp the "R"
terminal)?

I would also appreciate anyone else's opining on what may be wrong.

Thanks

Karl Aune and Soylent Ocean Mist
1965 Dynamic 88 Celebrity Sedan

Members; OCA & IVOC

Plan Ahead! make your hotel reservations in Springfield, IL for the Olds
Nationals!

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª1066
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