
oldsmobile-digest     Saturday, February 7 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1089



Re: take me off your spam list now!
Hoods
Re: new gas tank; priming carb
8 Track Adaptor
Re: Oldsmobile Lansing Video from Doug Newman
Re: A/C hoses for '70 442 or Retrofit A/C
Re: 307 Timing
Re: NEED WINDSHIELD ('76 98)
Re: Water Pump Question for anyone online now!!!
Re: Need Help
Re: 78 Delta 88 heater fan quits
Re: 8 Track Adaptor
Re: Oldsmobile Lansing Video from Doug Newman
Re: Oldsmobile Lansing Video from Doug Newman
Re: A/C hoses for '70 442 or Retrofit A/C
Header debate
Re: 307 Timing
Did I do something wrong?
Full-Size Rear Sway Bar
gauge pods for a-pillars
Re: Oldsmobile Lansing Video from Doug Newman
Re: Hoods
looking for 71 road test data
Block numbers
Re: Need H*lp
Anyone got a price yet on the new Edelbrock heads?
Oust charcoal canister?
Re: gauge pods for a-pillars
motor problems
RE: Coil Spring cutting
Re: motor problems
Re: motor problems
Re: take me off your spam list now!
Re: motor problems
Oldsmobile 1958 Holiday Coupe
I need production totals
Re: 307 Timing
Re: motor problems
Re: motor problems
Re: Header debate
seat covers
'76 Cutlass California Special
Re: A/C hoses for '70 442 or Retrofit A/C
Re: I need production totals
Re: Hoods
re: take me off your span list
A question about milling
Convertible Boot
Re: Oust charcoal canister?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 18:48:19 -0500
From: Gerald Hughes <ghughes@hughesconsulting.com>
Subject: Re: take me off your spam list now!

Read directions, your filling up our valuable space with your inactive
brain cells.

							Gerald Hughes

Matthew H. Boughey wrote:
> 
> take me off your mailing please you are doing me no good!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 18:46:10 EST
From: TERMO1L@aol.com
Subject: Hoods

Anybody know if ther is a different hood I could get for my '66 F85?  I was
thinking something with what are those called scoops or whatever.  Did they
make a 442 with those?  Would it fit my car.  I think it would look really
sharp if they did make'm

Thanks
Mike
66 F85
81 88

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 18:48:17 EST
From: TERMO1L@aol.com
Subject: Re: new gas tank; priming carb

I will have the same problem soon.  Knew carb and fuel pump(stock replace)
Will I have trouble getting it started?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 18:50:20 -0500
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: 8 Track Adaptor

Dan: if you get no response on the 8 track adaptor let me know. I'm
interested.  Contact me directly.  Wayne Schwartz
Dan Boone wrote:
> 
> Hey Guy,
> I am having a hard time getting a in touch with you, I have the thermometer you
> want and the name of guy with the 8 track to cassette adapter. If you are still
> interested send me your address and I will mail it to you. $10.00 + shipping
> about $2.00. The word is out, I am getting other e-mail asking for this
> thermometer. Let me now
> Dan
> 
> RC Hellebuyck wrote:
> 
> > Looking for:
> >
> > One of those 8-track adapters that allows you to play a cassette.  Made by
> > Kraco and a few others in the early 80s.
> >
> > A Olds door mounted, outside thermometer in EC or I'll settle for one that's
> > NOS.   Was available only in 1971 so I'm told.  If you don't know
what I'm
> > talking about, I'll be adding a picture of one on my web site soon.
> >
> > RC Hellebuyck
> > 1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
> > 1995 Achieva S
> >
> > http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 19:52:37 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Lansing Video from Doug Newman

The postman finally delivered my video from Doug today and I just 
finished watching it. All I can say is that it is fantastic!!

This is a very professional job, great looking captions and credits,
smooth edits, and fine picture and sound quality. The music selections
were right on the mark. For my money, Doug's version of "455 Rocket" blows
Ms. Mattea's version into the weeds! And the rest of the video is every
bit as good... if you were there, you should get it, and if you weren't,
it's a great way to see what you missed. It's a bargain at $20. Buy it and
get ready for an hour of great enjoyment! 

Thanks very much Doug!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 19:19:56 EST
From: JohnMonnin@aol.com
Subject: Re: A/C hoses for '70 442 or Retrofit A/C

I didn't get my air conditioning hoses fixed but when I was looking to Pep-
Boys were willing to take my old hoses and reuse the ends to make new hoses.  

P.S. Make sure they use barrier hoses suitable for R134A.  Even if you are
going to stay with R-12 for now the R-134A style barrier hoses are better
hoses.

By the way I like window tint on classic cars. It keeps the interior cool and
blocks damaging ultraviolet rays.  Just don't by the cheap shit that bubbles
and turns purple.


Original letter below:

Subj:	 A/C hoses for '70 442 or Retrofit A/C
Date:	98-02-06 18:17:28 EST
From:	mschlott@rsn.hp.com (Mike Schlottman)
Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
Reply-to:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca (oldsmobilelist)

My A/C hoses are leaking oil at the fittings so I'm looking for a good
set of hoses.  Who is a good supplier for these hoses?  Can I have mine
repaired?  They appear to be leaking between the fitting and the rubber
part of the hose.

Since I will be losing all of my R-12, if it is not all ready gone, now
would be a good time to look at using a more enviro-freindly
refridgarant.  Have any of you used the so called R-12 replacements that
don't require any hardware changes?  If this isn't a real option what
other options do I have and what might the cost be?

Summer is on it's way and I'm not looking foreward to no A/C.

On a side note,  I'd like to hear some oppinions on puting window tint
in a classic like a '70 442.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 16:29:16 -0800
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: 307 Timing

Yes, that's how the timing marks on my '84 look.  I have to hold the light in
one exact place and look in at one exact angle to see them, and above 20 degrees
I can't see the printing when using the timing light. . . .

At least I got a good opportunity to clean mine off when changing the water pump
last year so I can actually *see* the numbers.

Jim Hurd wrote:

>         I'm trying to time my 87 Salon (307) and wondered if anyone can
> confirm my assumption.  Since I am not a contortionished with good eyesight
> the best I can tell is that the timing indicator (w/numbers) goes from 0
> degrees to 24 degrees in 4 degree increments with the "points" multiples of
> 4 (0,4,8,12,etc..) and the "valleys" multiples of 2 (0,2,6,10,etc...).  With
> 167k on the clock it looks like it is running at about 30 degrees @ idle.
> Hmmmm wonder why its been pinging so much. :-)
>
> Jim H.
> '87 Salon



- --
Tom Lentz, tlentz@ior.com                        '84 Hurst/Olds #2118
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz                       '78 Cutlass Supreme
Network Admin, CPM Corp, Spokane, WA.            '78 Chev 1/2ton (Olds 350)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 19:13:52 -0600
From: Jeremy Enos <j-enos@students.uiuc.edu>
Subject: Re: NEED WINDSHIELD ('76 98)

Haven't tried calling around to specific glass shops yet... that's just
the price the body shop told me.

At 09:13 AM 2/6/98 -0500, you wrote:
>At 06:42 PM 2/5/1998 -0600, you wrote:
>>$367 installed... so I figure I could really come out ahead if I found a
>>$50 one in the junk or something.
>>Thanks-
>
>That does seem high.  Have you tried calling around?  I called several
>glass shops before settling on one.  I was quoted prices that differed from
>place to place by almost $100.
>
>
>
>*********************************************
>Dan Gulino
>1975 Delta 88 Convertible
>gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
><http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html>http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.
edu/~gulino/rides.html
>*********************************************
>  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 20:32:33 EST
From: RKN69@aol.com
Subject: Re: Water Pump Question for anyone online now!!!

Scott, 
       I had the exact same problem, I purchased a water pump for my 71 455
and the pulleys were 1/2" off. I "reworked" the shaft to correct it. I'm glad
I read your letter 'cause now I know what to ask for when I replace this one.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 20:37:56 EST
From: RKN69@aol.com
Subject: Re: Need Help

You've built yourself a highway motor. Lot's of torque but with that rear your
0-60 time isn't going to suprise anyone. You really should think about a
bigger carburator also.
I've done about the same thing you did only with a '71 455 in a '66 Dynamic 88
ragtop. I'm replacing the carb this month, rear next year. Good Luck

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 17:29:12 -0500
From: "Rob Lewis" <fever@planeteer.com>
Subject: Re: 78 Delta 88 heater fan quits

- ----------
> From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 78 Delta 88 heater fan quits
> Date: Thursday, February 05, 1998 9:59 PM
> 
> >I was wondering if anybody experienced the same problem
> >Car has air-cond, fan works intermittently never on high.
> 
> The connector in the high-speed line (big fat red wire running across the
> engine compartment behind the engine itself, often tied into the AC
harness)
> is either dirty or melted. The intermittent operation is likely due to
poor
> connections on the blower relay on the AC fan box.
> 
> >Heat is on full all the time heat control does not work(seems to be
> >connected)
> 
> Maybe the temperature control cable is adjusted too tight; there is a
vacuum
> switch on the control unit tied into the movement of the temperature
lever,
> and if it doesn't go over all the way to the cold, it won't allow the
heater
> control valve on the engine to shut off.
> 
> >Also no buttons do anything when pushed.
> 
> Buttons? In a '78? I thought that was all levers. You're not talking
about
> an automatic climate control system there, are you? In that case, it's
time
> to call in the witch doctor... ;)
> 
> >Vac lines look okay. 
> 
> Are the vacuum lines to the heater control itself hooked up properly?
> 

Yes the lines seem to be fine,I unhook the one under the passenger side
 dash to get cool air.
Yes it is the climate controls (buttons) none of them do a thing even the
off and on.
Heat control is with levers.
Thanks for the help.
Rob

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 21:51:25 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: 8 Track Adaptor

>> Hey Guy,
>> I am having a hard time getting a in touch with you, I have the
thermometer you
>> want and the name of guy with the 8 track to cassette adapter. If you are
still
>> interested send me your address and I will mail it to you. $10.00 +
shipping
>> about $2.00.


Dan,
Thanks for waiting.  I was wondering why I haven't heard from you.  I DID
respond but I guess it didn't make it to you.

Anyway yea, $10. + shipping sounds fine as long as the scratches you talked
about are minimal.  The car it will be going on is in #2 condition.  Also,
any info about the guy that has the 8 track adapter?

RC Hellebuyck
53400 North Foster Road
Chesterfield  MI  48051

Thanks,

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
1995 Achieva S

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 21:01:39 -0600 (CST)
From: Bryceman <bryceman@442.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Lansing Video from Doug Newman

Greg Beaulieu Wrote...

>it's a great way to see what you missed. It's a bargain at $20. Buy it and
>get ready for an hour of great enjoyment!

I agree with what Greg said, but to me it's more like an hour-long orgasm.
(sorry I had to say it that way) I just finished watching it for the
_tenth_ time, seriously! No true Olds fan should be without it. Very
professional mixing of the audio and video, great songs and some classic
puns. The video is well worth twice the $20 price. We are really lucky to
have access to a piece of memorabilia of this caliber. Thanks alot Doug.

Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Oldsmobiles!
'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender
'65 442 Post Coupe
'65 Vista Cruiser
'72 H/O Convertible Pace Car Replica
Email: bryceman@442.com  URL: www.442.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 22:44:24 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Lansing Video from Doug Newman

> This is a very professional job, great looking captions and credits,
> smooth edits, and fine picture and sound quality. The music selections
> were right on the mark. For my money, Doug's version of "455 Rocket" blows
> Ms. Mattea's version into the weeds! And the rest of the video is every
> bit as good... if you were there, you should get it, and if you weren't,
> it's a great way to see what you missed. It's a bargain at $20. Buy it and
> get ready for an hour of great enjoyment! 

I also received my copy today and just finished watching it.  Well said,
Greg; your comments are spot on!  Doug obviously put a lot of thought and
care into this outstanding production.  I was only able to attend the
celebration for 5 hours on the Saturday; this 1 hour video covers far more
than I was able to see.  Highly recommended!

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 21:29:34 +0000
From: "M. Slocum" <mslocum@shrike.depaul.edu>
Subject: Re: A/C hoses for '70 442 or Retrofit A/C

Personally, I like window tint. The first car I tinted was a 93 Toyota last
summer. It was great: it kept out the heat
and the "poymmb" (Poor Ol' Yuppies Minding My Business), and it looked
great(for a Tercel).

As for classic cars, why not? Some people, hell(heck?), maybe alot of people
would probably snub their nose at it.
But who cares, hit the gas, count to ten, and their gone!

Happy Cruisin'

Mike
72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible on life support

Mike Schlottman wrote:

> My A/C hoses are leaking oil at the fittings so I'm looking for a good
> set of hoses.  Who is a good supplier for these hoses?  Can I have mine
> repaired?  They appear to be leaking between the fitting and the rubber
> part of the hose.
>
> Since I will be losing all of my R-12, if it is not all ready gone, now
> would be a good time to look at using a more enviro-freindly
> refridgarant.  Have any of you used the so called R-12 replacements that
> don't require any hardware changes?  If this isn't a real option what
> other options do I have and what might the cost be?
>
> Summer is on it's way and I'm not looking foreward to no A/C.
>
> On a side note,  I'd like to hear some oppinions on puting window tint
> in a classic like a '70 442.
>
>         mike

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 22:37:56 EST
From: JohnMonnin@aol.com
Subject: Header debate

I have a 69 Cutlas 350 with a turbo 400 trans and I am looking at buying
headers later this year.  Since the original trans was removed by a previous
owner I am no longer worried about originality.
So I wanted to start a debate on which headers fit best.  My only header
experience was with my buddies 73 dart.  We through away the blackjack headers
he bought because they fit crappy and bought a pare of Hooker Super
Competitions, which fit well. 

What headers has everyone tried on their cutlas's and how did they fit.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 22:54:55 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: 307 Timing

Hi Jim,

> 4 (0,4,8,12,etc..) and the "valleys" multiples of 2 (0,2,6,10,etc...).  With
> 167k on the clock it looks like it is running at about 30 degrees @ idle.
> Hmmmm wonder why its been pinging so much. :-)

To set timing on a C-3 system, you first have to enter diagnostic mode by
jumpering pins A & B on the ALDL connector under the instrument panel.
When this is done, the ECM no longer controls the spark timing; the small
amount of remaining advance is a function of fail-safe circuitry within
the module.  Does your emissions label indicate that the timing should be
20 degrees at 1100 rpm?

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 21:50:46 +0000
From: "M. Slocum" <mslocum@shrike.depaul.edu>
Subject: Did I do something wrong?

I don't know...the car was running pretty rough so I put it on the
street(out of sight out of mind)
Cops came and gave me a ticket. So I put it in the garage
Rear tire went flat. So I put some 'newer' 14" 70's on it.
I went to pull it out this evening and theres oil all over the floor(.5
quart). I ask it "Did I do something wrong?"
She didn't answer.

Anyway, It's still running rough. I replaced the plugs/wires. I started
it and check for spark. The front 4 wires
are fine but the back 4-nothing. Could this be Distributor? Cap/roter?
Does it matter what size wire goes where?
I matched them up as best I could...longest one farthest away and I did
one at a time.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Michael Slocum
72 Cutlass cnvrt

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 23:30:51 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Full-Size Rear Sway Bar

A while back we were talking about how to use the GM brackets on the rear 
lower control arms to mount one of these. I wasn't able to find the part 
numbers, but someone has asked me to pass along word that he has the bar 
and all of the stuff needed to mount it available for sale.

If anyone is interested, contact DavidH@village.gurnee.il.us

Thanks!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 22:02:43 -0600
From: "Tracy H. Shires" <twodogs@ou.edu>
Subject: gauge pods for a-pillars

Someone mentioned these so I checked them out and I'm definately interested.


They make them for 82-92 camaro, 93-96 camaro, 79-93 stang, 95-95 stang, 88-96 chevy truck, 87-96 ford truck, and 88-91 hondas..


Someone posted which one would take the least amount of heat working to fit right- I think it was the chevy truck, but if someone has done this I was hoping they could confirm the right pod for me to get for my 81 Cutlass.


Thanks,






T. H. Shires				81 C/S/B Rckt 350

mailto:TwoDogs@ou.edu


<bold>University of Oklahoma

</bold><italic><color><param>0000,0000,ffff</param>Aerospace 
Engineering

</color><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param>Mechanical Engineering

</color></italic>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 23:02:57 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Lansing Video from Doug Newman

- -----Original Message-----
From: Bryceman <bryceman@442.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, February 06, 1998 10:39 PM
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Lansing Video from Doug Newman


>I agree with what Greg said, but to me it's more like an hour-long
orgasm.
>(sorry I had to say it that way) I just finished watching it for the
>_tenth_ time, seriously! No true Olds fan should be without it. Very
>professional mixing of the audio and video, great songs and some
classic
>puns. The video is well worth twice the $20 price. We are really
lucky to
>have access to a piece of memorabilia of this caliber. Thanks alot
Doug.


And the photo of "Mr. Smith" who bought the Rocket 455 is kinda
familiar too ;-)

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S convertible
OCA# 29770
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 23:09:37 -0500
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Hoods

At 06:46 PM 2/6/98 EST, you wrote:
Mike

        Sorry about the wrong name in the earlier post. Just confused. There
were only two hoods available in 66. The plain one you have and one with a
chrome strip down the middle. That was the Cutlass version.

Jim  

>Anybody know if ther is a different hood I could get for my '66 F85?  I was
>thinking something with what are those called scoops or whatever.  Did they
>make a 442 with those?  Would it fit my car.  I think it would look really
>sharp if they did make'm
>
>Thanks
>Mike
>66 F85
>81 88
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 23:36:40 EST
From: DKlauber@aol.com
Subject: looking for 71 road test data

Does anyone have, or know where I might be able to find road test data for
1971 442? 
Also does anyone have the book I saw in Bryceman's home page: 442 A source
guide.  Any good?  Still in print? 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 23:29:01 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Block numbers

> well i got all the numbers off the block and one off #1 clyinder was 
>32M744720 so i guess it is out of a '72. does the 396021F mean anything 

Then those "G" heads should have a small upper-case "A" down to the right
from the "G" (those are designated "Ga" heads). 

>above the timing chain or the 2724927 on the filler tube?

The 396021F is just the 455 casting #; that 2724927 means "2"=1972 and
724927=engine unit number.

>i have a couple reference books that tell me olds 455 '70 and below have 
>between 10.5 and 10.25 compression and them 71 rolles around and 
>everything drops down to 8.25 - 9. how is this. do they increase the cc 
>in the head, put a lower dish in the pistons? if it is pistons is there 
>any reason why you can't put in stock '68 10.25 pistons in a '72 block. 

It's all in the pistons; just order the 10.25:1 pistons (hint: the forged
TRW pistons are only a few $$$ more than the cast versions), and you'll have
the higher compression. Granted, the *actual* compression will be a bit
lower (actually 9.2-9.5:1, with today's composition head gaskets), but it's
better than the 8.0:1 pistons would give you.

>i am curious how all that works. the only way i'm going to have 8.5 or 
>lower is if i got a blower strapped to it. 
> 
>Oh check this out. (by the way i putting it in a 59' chevy pick-up) the 
>motor sits so low in that thing i got 15 inches or so from the top of 
>the carb to the hood. of course this is only fantacy now but a blower 
>could easily fit itself under the hood with out anyone knowing 
>and if anyone asks what the whine is, i got a gear drive.

hehehe.... I _LIKE_ that idea! You'll need more than 8.0:1 pistons, though,
to keep the boost *in* that block!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 23:29:05 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Need H*lp

>       Well it was a hassle for a kid to do alone but I finally got my 330
>reinstalled.  I am having trouble finding the rubber grommets for my PCV and
>Breather.  Does anyone know where I could get some from?  Its a '66.  Also

Fusick's has a good selection of these; don't know what configuration the
'66 has, but they probably have them as well.

>advice about installing a knew distributer?  IU am going to have trouble I 

OK, you want to be at TDC on piston #1. TDC is easy enough; that's just
lining up the timing mark to 0' (or whatever advance you want; start at 8').
To get it TDC on the compression stroke, remove the #1 spark plug, put your
finger over the hole, and rotate the engine with a socket and breaker
bar/long socket wrench until you start to feel pressure building in that
cylinder. Then keep turning until you get the timing mark up to the pointer.

Now that the crank is where you want it, you have to set the rotor on the
distributor so that it's contacting the #1 spark plug wire terminal. Put the
distributor cap on, and mark the location of that #1 terminal on the body of
the distributor as precisely as possible. Then, when you drop the
distributor into the block, the rotor will turn due to the angle of the
gears, so move the rotor about 1/8 of a turn from where you want it in it's
final position, so it rotates to be pointing directly at that #1 cylinder
terminal (you'll have to rotate the distributor body itself to get the final
line-up). Then install the cap and all the wires in the proper order
(consult an Olds manual for this one; those Chevy guys have everything
backwards... ;).

>  Is anyone good at determining if a car is going to perform well?  I had the
>Low Comp 330 and it was alright but kind of slow.  Since I have had the motor
>rebiuld, HC pistons put in.  A slightly bigger cam.  Performer manifold,
>Holley 600 and will be adding dual exhaust next week.  I also put in new
>alternater,  Dist., transmission cooler.  Did I waste the nearly two grand I
>have spent?  Will it be pretty fast?  I have a crappy little Jetaway and a
>2.73 rear.  Thats next years project.

Well, it will be faster than your 88. As you note, it's that Jetaway and
final gear that will be holding you back. The switch-pitch on that jetaway
will help (if so equipped); make sure it's functional. Those duals will also
help. As long as you've got everything assembled properly, it will be faster
than before, but you'll have to fine tune it to get optimal performance from
it. But, hey, that's what makes this all so much fun!!! :)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 23:29:08 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Anyone got a price yet on the new Edelbrock heads?

I see them advertised, but I haven't seen any price quotes.

I looked over the spec sheet from Mondello's page; looks like a good setup,
though it would be nice if they offered a bracket kit to compensate for the
tall valve covers. A serpentine setup would be really nice, if we're talking
about a complete redesign...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 22:43:59 +0000
From: "M. Slocum" <mslocum@shrike.depaul.edu>
Subject: Oust charcoal canister?

As usual, the C.C. is badly rusted. Can I remove it? What should I do
with the vacume tubes? Thanks!

Michael Slocum
72 Olds Cutlass cnvrt

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Feb 1998 00:05:16 -0500
From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: gauge pods for a-pillars

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-2"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

They make these pods for the Impala SS also. That is one to consider for =
rework.=20

Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) Akron, OH
Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group, Inc.
95 DCM Impala SS.....14.66@ 95.5
91 F-150 XLT Lariat...daily driver
80 Olds 442 W-30.......spun a bearing
75 Hurst/Olds W-25...will never be completed
    -----Original Message-----
    From: Tracy H. Shires <twodogs@ou.edu>
    To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
    Date: Friday, February 06, 1998 11:11 PM
    Subject: gauge pods for a-pillars
   =20
   =20
   =20
    Someone mentioned these so I checked them out and I'm definately =
interested.
   =20
    They make them for 82-92 camaro, 93-96 camaro, 79-93 stang, 95-95 =
stang, 88-96 chevy truck, 87-96 ford truck, and 88-91 hondas..
   =20
    Someone posted which one would take the least amount of heat working =
to fit right- I think it was the chevy truck, but if someone has done =
this I was hoping they could confirm the right pod for me to get for my =
81 Cutlass.
   =20
    Thanks,
   =20
   =20
   =20
   =20
   =20
    T. H. Shires 81 C/S/B Rckt 350
    mailto:TwoDogs@ou.edu
   =20
    University of Oklahoma
    Aerospace Engineering
    Mechanical Engineering
   =20

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<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-2 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Times New Roman" size=3D2>They make =
these pods for=20
the Impala SS also. That is one to consider for rework. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Times New Roman" =
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Times New Roman" size=3D2>Jason Labay =
(<A=20
href=3D"mailto:z28cfi@gwis.com">z28cfi@gwis.com</A>) Akron, =
OH<BR>Quality Engineer=20
- - TRW Automotive Group, Inc.<BR>95 DCM Impala SS.....14.66@ =
95.5</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Times New Roman" =
size=3D2></FONT><FONT=20
face=3D"Times New Roman" size=3D2>91 F-150 XLT Lariat...daily =
driver</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Times New Roman" size=3D2>80 Olds 442 =

W-30.......spun a bearing<BR>75 Hurst/Olds W-25...will never be=20
completed</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Tracy H. Shires &lt;<A=20
    href=3D"mailto:twodogs@ou.edu">twodogs@ou.edu</A>&gt;<BR><B>To: =
</B><A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A> =
&lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Friday, February 06, 1998 11:11 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>gauge pods =
for=20
    a-pillars<BR><BR></DIV></FONT><BR>Someone mentioned these so I =
checked them=20
    out and I'm definately interested.<BR><BR>They make them for 82-92 =
camaro,=20
    93-96 camaro, 79-93 stang, 95-95 stang, 88-96 chevy truck, 87-96 =
ford truck,=20
    and 88-91 hondas..<BR><BR>Someone posted which one would take the =
least=20
    amount of heat working to fit right- I think it was the chevy truck, =
but if=20
    someone has done this I was hoping they could confirm the right pod =
for me=20
    to get for my 81 Cutlass.<BR><BR>Thanks,<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>T. =
H. Shires=20
    81 C/S/B Rckt 350<BR>mailto:TwoDogs@ou.edu<BR><BR><B>University of=20
    Oklahoma<BR></B><I><?color><?param 0000,0000,ffff>Aerospace =
Engineering<BR><?/color><?color><?param ffff,0000,0000>Mechanical=20
    Engineering<BR><?/color></I></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_007B_01BD335C.11ED15C0--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Feb 1998 00:22:48 -0500
From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: motor problems

Lately my 80 442 with a 93,000 mile 350 has been making loud noises on startup and when
idling at a stop. The best way to describe the sound is like the exhaust y-pipe slapping
around between the motor and body and this sounds is very loud on startup. I have had all
the fluids checked, everything on the bottom of the car tightened, visually inspected and
there is nothing loose down there to rattle. This loud noise is obviously coming from
within the motor. Now the car runs and accelerates fine. Power is as good as always, no
loud noises present while driving, Only when  I stop at a light and let it idle it
"clangs" around again. Is this a sign my motor is in need of some major work? Someone
mentioned it sounds like I have a spun bearing. I wonder how this happened as I only put
81 miles on the car last year :-)

Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) Akron, OH
Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group, Inc.
95 DCM Impala SS...14.66@95.5
91 F-150 XLT Lariat...daily driver
80 Olds 442 W-30.....motor trouble
75 Hurst/Olds W-25...resto project

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Feb 1998 01:02:41 -0800
From: "Gary L. Andresen" <gary.andresen@ibm.net>
Subject: RE: Coil Spring cutting

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BD3364.1C09EA80
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
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Cut 1.5 rings off my '55 Olds to compensate for the loss of
weight resulting from swapping original setup with a 455 and
Turbo 400.

It dropped the front end about 2 inches.  Haven't noticed any
difference in the ride, but have only drove it a few miles since as
we haven't had much dry weather lately in sunny California.

Gary Andresen
Pleasanton, CA

- -----Original Message-----
From:	Igor [SMTP:todorovb@cadvision.com]
Sent:	Monday, February 02, 1998 9:14 PM
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:	Coil Spring cutting

I would like to lower my 81 Delta by about 1.5 inches.  I will paint it
either black or metalic blue with white or silver racing stripes on it,
with a custom bilt small airdam and side skirts, so lowering the delta,
particuilarly in the front would give it that mean olds look.  So, since I
am on serious budget, I am wondering if I could cut the sprigs to lower the
car.  It would be cheap.  I would like to get a 1 to 1.5 inch shorter look
with a possibly 20% stiffer ride for handling ( I realize that this may not
be possible if I cut stock springs).  If I do cut the springs, how much can
I cut them without bottoming out and stuff like that.  The car has new HD
shocks as well as 255/60/15 BFG tires all around, so that may be something
to consider.  Thanks for the input.


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Jun 1998 04:18:47 -0400
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: motor problems

Jason P. Labay wrote:
> 
> Lately my 80 442 with a 93,000 mile 350 has been making loud noises on startup and when
> idling at a stop. The best way to describe the sound is like the exhaust y-pipe slapping
> around between the motor and body and this sounds is very loud on startup. I have had all
> the fluids checked, everything on the bottom of the car tightened, visually inspected and
> there is nothing loose down there to rattle. This loud noise is obviously coming from
> within the motor. Now the car runs and accelerates fine. Power is as good as always, no
> loud noises present while driving, Only when  I stop at a light and let it idle it
> "clangs" around again. Is this a sign my motor is in need of some major work? Someone
> mentioned it sounds like I have a spun bearing. I wonder how this happened as I only put
> 81 miles on the car last year :-)

The noise is constant, right?  Hmmm...yeah, a spun bearing is possible,
or I think you may have a piston going.  It's quite possible for a
cylinder to wear severely out of round, especially if it's been sitting
on and off for long periods of time.  My advice is to do a compression
test before a piston skirt cracks from rattling around in the cylinder.

- -- 
S. Dave Ward  (mailto:ward@ptbo.igs.net)

'78 Delta 88 Royale (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 R.B.   (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC Sierra 4x4  (305 TBI)

(Ennismore, Ontario, CANADA)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Feb 1998 05:08:11 -0500
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: motor problems

At 12:22 AM 2/7/98 -0500, you wrote:
Jason

        Check the rockers and the trunions. This is a source of some very
unusual noises. You probably cracked a trunion.

Jim Chermack



>Lately my 80 442 with a 93,000 mile 350 has been making loud noises on
startup and when
>idling at a stop. The best way to describe the sound is like the exhaust
y-pipe slapping
>around between the motor and body and this sounds is very loud on startup.
I have had all
>the fluids checked, everything on the bottom of the car tightened, visually
inspected and
>there is nothing loose down there to rattle. This loud noise is obviously
coming from
>within the motor. Now the car runs and accelerates fine. Power is as good
as always, no
>loud noises present while driving, Only when  I stop at a light and let it
idle it
>"clangs" around again. Is this a sign my motor is in need of some major
work? Someone
>mentioned it sounds like I have a spun bearing. I wonder how this happened
as I only put
>81 miles on the car last year :-)
>
>Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) Akron, OH
>Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group, Inc.
>95 DCM Impala SS...14.66@95.5
>91 F-150 XLT Lariat...daily driver
>80 Olds 442 W-30.....motor trouble
>75 Hurst/Olds W-25...resto project
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Feb 1998 02:19:12 PST
From: "john foster" <anyasbbj@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: take me off your spam list now!

well don't let the door hit you in the ass on the way out.

people like this $#%& head really piss me off.there is no reason to cop 
an attitude. and if you remember correctly the very first message sent 
when you first joined was how to get out of the club.its not our fault 
he can't read.

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Feb 1998 07:53:04 -0500
From: "Michael A. Evans" <evans1@net-link.net>
Subject: Re: motor problems

Jason,

Did you check/tighten the three torque convertor to flywheel bolts?  Sounds
like a possibility.


At 12:22 AM 2/7/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Lately my 80 442 with a 93,000 mile 350 has been making loud noises on
startup and when
>idling at a stop. The best way to describe the sound is like the exhaust
y-pipe slapping
>around between the motor and body and this sounds is very loud on startup.
I have had all
>the fluids checked, everything on the bottom of the car tightened,
visually inspected and
>there is nothing loose down there to rattle. This loud noise is obviously
coming from
>within the motor. Now the car runs and accelerates fine. Power is as good
as always, no
>loud noises present while driving, Only when  I stop at a light and let it
idle it
>"clangs" around again. Is this a sign my motor is in need of some major
work? Someone
>mentioned it sounds like I have a spun bearing. I wonder how this happened
as I only put
>81 miles on the car last year :-)
>
>Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) Akron, OH
>Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group, Inc.
>95 DCM Impala SS...14.66@95.5
>91 F-150 XLT Lariat...daily driver
>80 Olds 442 W-30.....motor trouble
>75 Hurst/Olds W-25...resto project
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Feb 1998 00:11:40 +1100
From: "Will Sutton" <will_sutton@onaustralia.com.au>
Subject: Oldsmobile 1958 Holiday Coupe

Let me say first that I know nothing about Oldsmobile's.
A friend at work has asked me to find out about spares/
parts for the 1958..98 series Holiday Coupe. He would
also like to find some other owners.....trouble is he is
in Australia.
Any help will be appreciated. 

Will

http://www.users.bigpond.com/will_sutton

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Feb 1998 10:21:35 +0000
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: I need production totals

Would anyone happen to have the complete production totals for the 1973
model year. I want to put them up on my web page.
- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Feb 1998 10:35:05 -0500
From: Jim Hurd <jhurd@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: Re: 307 Timing

At 10:54 PM 2/6/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi Jim,
>
>> 4 (0,4,8,12,etc..) and the "valleys" multiples of 2 (0,2,6,10,etc...).
>>With 167k on the clock it looks like it is running at about 30 degrees @
>>idle. Hmmmm wonder why its been pinging so much. :-)

>To set timing on a C-3 system, you first have to enter diagnostic mode by
>jumpering pins A & B on the ALDL connector under the instrument panel.
>When this is done, the ECM no longer controls the spark timing; the small
>amount of remaining advance is a function of fail-safe circuitry within
>the module.  Does your emissions label indicate that the timing should be
>20 degrees at 1100 rpm?
>
>Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada
>
>
>

>Yes, that's how the timing marks on my '84 look.  I have to hold the light
>in one exact place and look in at one exact angle to see them, and above
>20 degrees I can't see the printing when using the timing light. . . .
>At least I got a good opportunity to clean mine off when changing the
>water pump last year so I can actually *see* the numbers.

- --
Tom Lentz, tlentz@ior.com                        '84 Hurst/Olds #2118
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz                       '78 Cutlass Supreme
Network Admin, CPM Corp, Spokane, WA.            '78 Chev 1/2ton (Olds 350)


        Thanks for the replies.  I found that on the emissions label there
is a diagram of the timing "tang", so instead of trying to read the numbers
on the tang, I just had to count the peaks or valleys and then look at the
label.  I do have the C-3 system, timing is shown as 20 BTDC @ 1100 rpm.  I
have two manuals (not very specific) and the emissions sticker, and they all
say to time it different ways.  One says to ground the AlCL, one says to
disconnect the connector at the distributor, and one says to pull of the air
cleaner and the vacumm line going to the thermactor, and plug it.  I dialed
the timing back some, I need to take a few more degrees out of it still.  I
performed the test to see if the EST is working and I believe it is.  I
still get light pinging under light/medium load in 4th and OD @ about
1500-2000 rpm.  I thought the ECM/ESC was suppose to retard the timing to
eliminate spark knock.  I checked the trouble codes and there weren't any.  




Jim H.
'87 Salon

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Feb 1998 10:59:29 -0500
From: Gerald Hughes <ghughes@hughesconsulting.com>
Subject: Re: motor problems

Jason,
	I have a 79 H/O 350 and lemme help you out.  My motor had about 135k on
it and you just described the exact symptoms.  Let's see if this makes
sense.  I rebuilt the motor AND the trans and the noise is still there. 
However, I did not replace the torque converter, so therein lies the
problem.  
	If the sound you're describing kinda sounds like if you were to take a
hammer to the bell housing or something close to that right?  Well,
first I would check to see if the tourque converter has come a bit
loose, if not then it's inside the tourque converter and you need a new
one.  I just got mine in yesterday and I'm going to put it in on Sun or
Mon.  I'll let you know if that was the problem.
	Does this sound right to you?  Double check and see exactly where the
noise is coming from.  

										Gerald Hughes

Jason P. Labay wrote:
> 
> Lately my 80 442 with a 93,000 mile 350 has been making loud noises on startup and when
> idling at a stop. The best way to describe the sound is like the exhaust y-pipe slapping
> around between the motor and body and this sounds is very loud on startup. I have had all
> the fluids checked, everything on the bottom of the car tightened, visually inspected and
> there is nothing loose down there to rattle. This loud noise is obviously coming from
> within the motor. Now the car runs and accelerates fine. Power is as good as always, no
> loud noises present while driving, Only when  I stop at a light and let it idle it
> "clangs" around again. Is this a sign my motor is in need of some major work? Someone
> mentioned it sounds like I have a spun bearing. I wonder how this happened as I only put
> 81 miles on the car last year :-)
> 
> Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) Akron, OH
> Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group, Inc.
> 95 DCM Impala SS...14.66@95.5
> 91 F-150 XLT Lariat...daily driver
> 80 Olds 442 W-30.....motor trouble
> 75 Hurst/Olds W-25...resto project

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Feb 1998 11:55:02 EST
From: Supreme70@aol.com
Subject: Re: motor problems

In a message dated 98-02-07 02:28:50 EST, you write:

<< making loud noises on startup and when
 idling at a stop >>

it sounds to me that the noise is coming from the exhaust near the Y pipe
there is a flapper valve that is on the pass. side check to see if the rod
that open's it is unhooked, if it is it will cause the valve to flop around at
idle, and start up because there is not enough exhaust pressure to keep it
open.

supreme70 (michael prince)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Feb 1998 10:39:52 -0800
From: Brent Kezama <kezama@sk.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Header debate

JohnMonnin@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I have a 69 Cutlas 350 with a turbo 400 trans and I am looking at buying
> headers later this year.  Since the original trans was removed by a previous
> owner I am no longer worried about originality.
> So I wanted to start a debate on which headers fit best.  My only header
> experience was with my buddies 73 dart.  We through away the blackjack headers
> he bought because they fit crappy and bought a pare of Hooker Super
> Competitions, which fit well.
> 
> What headers has everyone tried on their cutlas's and how did they fit.

I installed headers on my '72 Cutlass quite a few years ago. They were
Blackjack and fit just fine. The only pain was the installation on the
starter side. You have to install both at the same time, nice juggling
act. 

Great results.

Brent

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Feb 1998 13:17:22 EST
From: DNMPC2@aol.com
Subject: seat covers

I have a 1969 olds cutlass convt. and need new original front seat covers,
Can anyone provide help/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Feb 1998 14:29:43 -0500
From: "Michael A. Evans" <evans1@net-link.net>
Subject: '76 Cutlass California Special

I just talked to a guy in L.A. that has a '76 California Special.  Based on
VIN, it's a 2-door Cutlass S with a 350-4V motor.  I'm interested in it
only for the rustfree body.  Am I correct in presuming that this is
probably just another mid-70's hokey regional dealer tape-'em & stripe'em
promo, or are there any special parts that someone else may be interested
in?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Feb 1998 14:38:09 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: A/C hoses for '70 442 or Retrofit A/C

Mike Schlottman wrote:
> 
> My A/C hoses are leaking oil at the fittings so I'm looking for a good
> set of hoses.  Who is a good supplier for these hoses?  

Is this for the `70?  I couldn't find any supplier for these hoses last
summer.  I had to go to a local shop and get mine patched up.  

>Can I have mine
> repaired?  They appear to be leaking between the fitting and the rubber
> part of the hose.

A good shop will either fix the hoses or cobble something together with
some "universal" fittings.  It won't look stock but it should work. 
Don't know if you can get everthing replaced to look stock but if you
can it'll probably be some special mail order deal and odds are it'll be
pricey.
 
> Since I will be losing all of my R-12, if it is not all ready gone, now
> would be a good time to look at using a more enviro-freindly
> refridgarant.  Have any of you used the so called R-12 replacements that
> don't require any hardware changes?  If this isn't a real option what
> other options do I have and what might the cost be?


There are other "drop in" alternatives approved by the EPA but there are
mixed reviews on what to use and whether to even use them period. Some
are better than others. Chillit (R414A) looks the most promising to me
but I haven't tried so I don't know. Last time i checked it cost about
$12-$13 a pound and you need an EPA certification to buy it yourself. 
Most of the replacements still require barrier hoses, which you'll
probably end up with anyway if you need them replaced.  The advantage to
most of the replacements is that they don't require a compressor oil
change and they're cooling capacity is close to and in some cases better
than R134A.
      
Here's a list of some air conditioning websites that are interesting:

- -Automotive AC Information server: http://www.aircondition.com/

- -Mainstream engineering EPA certification page:  http://www.epatest.com/

- ----These two aren't working right now. They might be old links.----

- -Automotive AC links page: http://www.bdsnet.com/~pparish/address.htm

- -A website with a sales pitch for chill-it:
http://www.chill-it.com/index.html


R12 is still out there.  What isn't being lost in wrecks or leaks is
getting recovered and recycled, and there are less and less cars on the
road that use it.  I'm sure the stockpiles of it aren't depleted yet
either.  If you can stand the roughly $25 a pound it goes for then use
it, it's great stuff and it's what the AC system was designed for.  

You can use R134A but the bad news is the initial cost of converting
will be about the same as staying with R12.  When I fixed the Vista
Cruiser's AC last summer converting would have cost $50 for the
conversion kit plus roughly $60 worth of R134A.  Of course if you
convert to R134A and it happens to leak out for some reason recharging
it will be cheaper.  The conversion kit is little more than a pint of
oil, a set of seals, and fittings to convert to the R134A connections. 
The short version of why it works is that the oil doesn't allow the
R134A to react with any reminants of R12 lubricant that may be in the
system so you can safely run it.  The seals are 134A approved and some
cars may still need the hoses swapped for barrier hoses.  I've heard
that many US cars have had barrier hoses for years because they're
superior to nitrile in thatthey bleed out less refrigerant no matter
what you're using.  I don't know exactly when they went to barrier hoses
though.  The non-barrier nitrile hoses are found more on import cars.  

I can't say whether converting to R134A is worthwhile since I've never
tried it.  R134A doesn't cool as efficiently (about 10% less efficient,
I think) as R12 but it may not be a problem on our old cars.  They have
very good systems to start with, and don't need to run at full capacity
very often.  It's probably more a problem on newer cars when they were
going for maximum efficiency and the least weight.  I decided to go
ahead and use R12 in my Vista Cruiser since it's huge and has all the
extra windows in it.  I figured on a 90 degree day with the sun beating
down the AC is going to need all the help it can get cooling 100 cubic
feet of interior! 

Good luck.  Hope I was of some help.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Surpeme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Feb 1998 13:34:34 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: I need production totals

Matt,

Here is what i have:

Omega
2 dr coupe                  26123
2 dr hatchback           21433
4 dr sedan                  12804

Cutlass
2 dr coupe                  22022
4 dr sedan                  35578

Cutlass S
2 dr hardtop                77558

Cutlass Supreme
2 dr coupe                 219857
4 dr sedan                   26099 

Vista Cruiser
station wagon 5p        10894 
station wagon 7p        13531

Delta Eighty-Eight
2 dr coupe                   27096 
4 dr Holiday sedan     27986
4 dr Town sedan         42476

Delta Eighty-Eight Royal
2 dr coupe                   27096
4 dr hdtop sedan        49145
4 dr Town sedan         42672
convertible                     7088

Custom Cruiser
station wagon 5p        12397
station wagon 7p        26511

Ninety-Eight
2 dr coupe                    7850
2 dr deluxe coupe      26925
4 dr sedan                  13989
4 dr lux sedan             55695
4 dr Regency sedan  34009  

Toronado
2 dr coupe                   55921

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible 



>Would anyone happen to have the complete production totals for the 1973
>model year. I want to put them up on my web page.
>-- 
>**********************************
>Matt Cremean

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Feb 1998 15:17:18 EST
From: TERMO1L@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hoods

Jim


The hood that I have has a chrome strip down the middle what does the cutlass
one look like?  Is it bigger?????


Mike

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Feb 1998 14:19:45 -0800
From: Michael <mbs2@Ra.MsState.Edu>
Subject: re: take me off your span list

        Now now, lets not be too tough on him.  He's probably a wandering
Ford owner that simply can't deal with the reality of Olds tourque
superiority, ya know?  Or more painful yet...maybe he's a Camaro owner
having flashbacks about Olds tail lights....hehehe

john foster wrote:

> well don't let the door hit you in the ass on the way out.
>
> people like this $#%& head really piss me off.there is no reason to cop
> an attitude. and if you remember correctly the very first message sent
> when you first joined was how to get out of the club.its not our fault
> he can't read.
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Feb 1998 15:27:40 -0500
From: Rotten <olds442@en.com>
Subject: A question about milling

My "E" heads are out being milled as we speak.  The shop is going to take
.050" off the bottom.  Anyone know if I will need to mill my intake to
compensate for this?  If so, how much?

Thanks,
Ken

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Feb 1998 15:34:10 EST
From: Knightvd@aol.com
Subject: Convertible Boot

I have a convertible boot for a '71 cutlass for sale.  It is black vinyl, like
new - $20 + shipping.  

Please email me directly at knightvd@norand.com if interested.

Vince Knight
'71 Cutlass Supreme Converible

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Feb 1998 14:34:33 -0800
From: Michael <mbs2@Ra.MsState.Edu>
Subject: Re: Oust charcoal canister?

    You could remove it and plug the vacume lines with no effect on your
car's performance, but the neg side effect will be a bit more pollution
and a missing (stock) component.  There may also be a tiny increase in
power and a tiny decrease in milage, but tiny is the operative word
here.  I myself like to have everything hooked up and working.  Best
bet--get one out of the junk yard the next time your there.  Their
interchangability makes these canisters very very cheap (I paid 5 bucks
for one a few years back).
  Regards,
  Michael

M. Slocum wrote:

> As usual, the C.C. is badly rusted. Can I remove it? What should I do
> with the vacume tubes? Thanks!
>
> Michael Slocum
> 72 Olds Cutlass cnvrt

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1089
*********************************

