
oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, January 14 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1057



Boxed Lowers
Re: Polyurethane Front End Squeaks
Front End Alignment Bolt Broke
70 Hot Wheels
Re: Big Car Rear Sway Bar
Re: Polyurethane Front End Squeaks
Re: temp. guage
Accelerator question
temp
Re: Front End Alignment Bolt Broke
Re: Polyurethane Front End Squeaks Polygraphite
Re:Sticking/frozen door seals
Re: Soylent Ocean Door Stop
Re: Some parts
RE: Soylent Ocean Door Stop
RE: 72 Cutlass problems
Re: temp. guage
RE: Are these good prices?
Re: Soylent Ocean Door Stop
Re: Man trans plug sealant
Re: Polyurethane Front End Squeaks Polygraphite
Re: temp. guage
Starting again!
TH350 Swap
Re: Man trans plug sealant
Re: Soylent Ocean Door Stop
Intake sealing  (was: bad idle?)
Re: Drum to Disc
Re: temp. guage
Re: Starting again!
70 Cutlass Wheel well chrome?
Ignited
Re: Ignited
Re: Ignited
Valve Spring Compressor
Re: 1970 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
Re: Ignited
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1055
Re: Are these good prices?
Re: Starting again!
Re: ultimate parts car
[none]
Re: UNBOUNCE: '68 Delta Parts Needed
Re: Fernando's misread message.
transmission swap continued
Engine Update!!!
Re: 1970 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
Re: Soylent Ocean Door Stop
Re: Ignited 
Re: Ignited
Re: Intake sealing  (was: bad idle?)
Lucky Day
Fwd: 442 in Texas, Info wanted
NON-Expiring registration for Michigan
Re: transmission swap continued

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 01:11:40 -0500
From: "Jason K. Adcock" <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Boxed Lowers

All this talk of boxed lowers for our cars got me to thinking.  On my 84
G-Body, the lowers are not boxed, but there is a good piece of metal (looks
kinda like a 3/4" piece of metal tube) inside of the control arm that the
rear sway bar mounts with.  I can't really tell where this little tube
goes, but Edelbrock (http://www.edelbrock.com) lists a tubular brace with
their rear suspension kits for the G-Bodies.  Is this supposed to take the
place of boxed control arms?  Edelbrock doesn't say on the web if their
suspension parts are boxed or not.  What could this tubular brace be for?

BTW, none of the G-Bodies had boxed lowers right?
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 01:13:18 -0500
From: "Jason K. Adcock" <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Polyurethane Front End Squeaks

Dan Burke wrote:
>
> I finally doused each bushing in turn with WD-40.

Hey, that's a good idea.  I didn't even think of that.  Next time I'm home
for the weekend, I'll try it out.  Thanks.
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 01:27:04 -0500
From: Dan Burke <dburke@magicnet.net>
Subject: Front End Alignment Bolt Broke

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BD208B.868A5E80
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Just hopped out of the tow truck with my '70 Cutlass on board.  I was =
backing out of a parking space when a loud pop announced that one of the =
bolts that mounts the upper "A" frame broke.  I had replaced the =
original upper bushing shaft with an offset shaft that is supposed to =
allow for proper front end alignment of older worn front ends.  This =
resulted in the use of more than normal amount of shims required to =
align the front end.  My theory is that the additional shims increased =
the stress on these bolts, and the fatigue finally wore through the =
bolt.

Lessons learned; do not use offset bushing shafts unless needed, and =
yes, I recommend replacing upper "A" frame mounting bolts if there is =
any question of their integrity.  Mine had 300,000 miles but looked as =
good as new.

Note that when the bolt broke the wheel movement damaged the brake line =
and I lost the brakes too.

Dan Burke			70 cultass conv
Orlando, FL
dburke@magicnet.net


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 02:10:02 EST
From: RCKTPWR <RCKTPWR@aol.com>
Subject: 70 Hot Wheels

For all you 1970 a-body owners, I was doing some late-nite food shopping, and
I came across a 70 olds 442 in the "blue streak series" hot wheel series. Of
course I splurged for the 99 cents.  Now if they could only do a 67, or an
86!!
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 01:11:35 -0600 (CST)
From: Bryceman <bryceman@442.com>
Subject: Re: Big Car Rear Sway Bar

>For '65-'67 the boxed lower arms for the A bodies also fit the big cars.
>Not sure about the sway bars.  For sure do *not* use the bar w/o the boxes!
> Would Bryceman measure his bar & let us know?

I would be glad to but am sure without measuring, the big car bars are
longer (wider) than the cutlass/442 bars.

Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Oldsmobiles!
'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender
'65 442 Post Coupe
'65 Vista Cruiser
'72 H/O Convertible Pace Car Replica
Email: bryceman@442.com  URL: www.442.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 02:14:15 EST
From: RCKTPWR <RCKTPWR@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Polyurethane Front End Squeaks

Ive heard that POLYGRAPHITE bushings dont squeak. Is there such a thing?
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 06:50:59 -0600
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: temp. guage

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jason K. Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
>
>An aside: I need to better seal my EGR valve gasket.  Is RTV good to use?
>Is this the same as the 'high-temp silicone' stuff Advance Auto, etc.
>sells?  One of my friends here (who is ASE certified and works at
>Super-Trak) says that RTV Blue (or Clear) is the stuff to use.  Is he
>correct?  Thanks.

What ever you use make sure it says that it is oxygen sensor safe. If I
remember right you shouldn't need  sealant just the gasket.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:24:57 -0800
From: Erik <erikreb@netbridge.net>
Subject: Accelerator question

Hi all,

Well, I got my Holley back on and started my Olds up.  Ran great!! 
Except for one little problem.  My accelerator is sticking.  I think I
got it figured out though.  From the pedal goes a wire to the lever. 
When I push down on the pedal, the wire just does not return, and keeps
pouring on the gas.  It scared me the first time I started it up, cuz I
had pumped the pedal a couple times and when it started the engine was
screaming so hard I thought it was going to blow!!!!!
	Anyhow, how can I fix my accelerator?  Can I just put some grease or
lube on it?  

Thanks, and if anybody needs more info, just let me know.

Erik B.
'72 Cutlass S == Sorta running

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:47:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Jack Karamanos <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: temp

my 455 powered 47 runs 197-203 with a 195 thermostat regardless of outside
temp, 30 or 105, and at 2000/2.7's or at 3000/3.7's rpm, on an autometer
mechanical temperature gauge.  

47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 02:06:22 -0600
From: Shang <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Re: Front End Alignment Bolt Broke

Dan Burke wrote:
> 
> Just hopped out of the tow truck with my '70 Cutlass on board.  I was backing out of a parking space when a loud pop announced that one of the bolts that mounts the upper "A" frame broke.  I had replaced the original upper bushing shaft with an offset shaft that is supposed to allow for proper front end alignment of older worn front ends.  This resulted in the use of more than normal amount of shims required to align the front end.  My theory is that the additional shims increased the stress on
> 
> Lessons learned; do not use offset bushing shafts unless needed, and yes, I recommend replacing upper "A" frame mounting bolts if there is any question of their integrity.  Mine had 300,000 miles but looked as good as new.
> 
> Note that when the bolt broke the wheel movement damaged the brake line and I lost the brakes too.
> 
> Dan Burke                       70 cultass conv
> Orlando, FL
> dburke@magicnet.net
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
>                 Part 1.2       Type: application/ms-tnef
>                            Encoding: base64


Just an obsevation - I thought the offset shafts were to allow you to
have more (negative) camber, for improved road feel. Is it possible that
the shop where you had the front end aligned crammed a lot of shims in
order to force the front end alignment where it should be according to
the book? I have the offset shafts from year one, and I just tell my
mechanic what numbers I want.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 04:23:05 EST
From: Markintime <Markintime@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Polyurethane Front End Squeaks Polygraphite

Hi Bernie,
Yes polygraphite bushings do exist.  They are polyurethane bushings,
impregnated with graphite to prevent the squeaking poly bushings are famous
for.  Where most polyurethane bushings are usually red , orange or yellow,
polygraphite bushings are always black because of the graphite.  At least
that's true of the one's I've seen.

Mark Berube
Loganville, GA.
67' 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 12:49:40 +0300
From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Subject: Re:Sticking/frozen door seals

Andrew C. Green wrote:

> I'm having this problem on several cars... Today it's a
> nice brisk 2 degrees below zero (F) this morning, and I
< snipped to avoid bad memories >
> keep them from freezing the doors shut if they're wet?

The usual stuff is some kind of silicone You put on the
weatherstripping.

These will eliminate sticking alltogether and will keep
the stripping good looking.

On the other hand this stuff also is a real pain in the a**
during repaint. As silicone can isolate water from Your
weatherstripping it can do the same "miracle" to paint.
The guys that do painting just love it ;).

It is not a bad idea to wash Your car during the winter especially
if they use some kind of salt on the roads at Your region. IMHO
it is even more important during the winter that during the
dry, saltless summertime. And...nothing can beat the effect
a washed wagon has on Your dear wife, not even roses....

Sticking weatherstripping is relatively easy problem compared
what happens is moisture cumulates inside the doors thus freezing
locking mechanism. You don't even have a chance to start up
the vechile for warming it up !

This has happened to me after I washed our Niny. A plastic bag
with 5 litres hot water in cured the problem. I didn't pour
the water on the door, I leaned it on the door until it
smelted. 


- -- 
x----------------------------------------------------x
x Esko Ilola              mailto:esko.ilola@tele.fi  x
x                          phone:+358 2040 3439      x
x Oldsmobile 98 -64 4DHT  Holiday sports sedan       x
x "Where the action is...."                          x
x----------------------------------------------------x

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 07:11:31 -0600
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: Soylent Ocean Door Stop

Some things to check:

battery
min. cranking voltage 9v
engine cranking rpm 150

ignition
coil primary resistance 1.77-2.05 ohms @ 80 deg. f.
      secondary res. 6500-9500 ohms @ 80 deg. f.
ignition current
engine stopped 4.5 amps - idling 2 amps
ballast resistor
loom 1.35ohms @ 80deg. f.
condenser capacity
.18-.23 mfd (?)

I got this info from a '65 Sun electric tune up card for full size cars. If
you'd like I could scan it and send it to you (or anybody else).

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 08:27:56 EST
From: OldsGuyGA <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Some parts

 i need the guts for 71-2 sport mirror.. have nice shell..
 trying to make one mirror.. old guy...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:04:28 -0500
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: Soylent Ocean Door Stop

	I don't know if you have one, but get one of those spark plugs
that has a clip on it that you can use to check to see if there is spark
at the end of the spark plug wire. They only cost a few bucks at most
auto parts stores.  Use it to test each wire. If you don't have a good
spark then you know where to look.

	If you have a good spark at each plug then buy a can of starting
fluid.  Spray a little of the starting fluid directly into the carb and
then try starting the motor. If it starts then you have a fuel problem,
if not then it is timing or compression.

	I know this very basic, but if you have spark, fuel, and
compression and they get there together, something should happen.

	Bobby

	70 442 Escape Back to the.... Past

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:33:16 -0500
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: 72 Cutlass problems

Well of course that's what I meant. But Mike has corrected me
accordingly. Thank you...

Fernando Proietto
A/Manager
Systems Analyst - Informatics Division
Environment Canada
Atmospheric Environment Branch - Ontario Region
4905 Dufferin St. 
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: 	MROTHE[SMTP:MROTHE@prodigy.net]
> Sent: 	Tuesday, January 13, 1998 7:50 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: 72 Cutlass problems
> 
> > 
> > As for the carb, 600 cfm is enough. A typical 350 @100% VE
> (volumetric
> > efficiency) at best uses approx. 550 cfm @5500rpm.
> 
> Again, I agree the 600 vac. secondary does wonders on a 350.  The cool
> part is, it will use just as much secondary as it needs.  I disagree
> somewhat on Fernando's comments that the 750 would flood the engine
> just
> by using it, but he's definitely on the mark about it being too big
> for
> what you need.  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:34:29 -0500
From: Jim Hurd <jhurd@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: Re: temp. guage

Hey all,

        Thanks for all the replies on operating temp.  This seems to be the
"normal" operating temp for these engines.  Now I can go on to fixing the
windshield wipers (they're possessed), and other routine checks.




Jim H.
'87 Salon

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:37:53 -0500
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: Are these good prices?

Matt,
	I hope you can tell when a POSI unit has been rebuilt because I
can't . Buying from the swap meet can be fun but it does have cons.

Fernando Proietto
A/Manager
Systems Analyst - Informatics Division
Environment Canada
Atmospheric Environment Branch - Ontario Region
4905 Dufferin St. 
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: 	Matt Cremean[SMTP:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu]
> Sent: 	Tuesday, January 13, 1998 1:24 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Are these good prices?
> 
> 8.5" 3.73 gears (new)---------$125
> 8.5" GM posi (rebuilt)--------$175
> 
> Are these good prices? I'm attending the Toledo Swap Meet this weekend
> and taking my checkbook with me.
> 
> I really want Posi, but the gears are not a necessity.
> 

------------------------------

Date: 14 Jan 1998 09:59:04 EDT
From: Wyatt@jobax.net
Subject: Re: Soylent Ocean Door Stop

Karl,
You have occasional spark and even of the gas was questionable it should
do more than what you have indicated.
Check out your distributor cap.  It could have a crack in it.  You
mentioned moisture, if the cap is cracked not only will it let moisture
in, it will let the spark run wild.  If your distributor is worn and the
shaft has too much end play, you can ruin a cap and rotor in short
order. Been there done that:-)  You thought it was too cold for
moisture, think again.  I have seen frost inside dist. caps in the dead
of winter.  With the sudden change in temps we have had in the midwest,
moisture would be at the top of the list.  If the cap is good, spray
some silicone spray inside to displace any moisture.

Happy Hunting,
Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: 14 Jan 1998 10:03:56 EDT
From: Wyatt@jobax.net
Subject: Re: Man trans plug sealant

OL>I changed the manual trans gear lube on one of my newer cars for the
OL>first time (a n*ss*n).
OL>I did not use any sealant, as it was not called for
OL>in the manual.  Well, it is now leaking.  Does anybody know what was
OL>used or what could be used to seal this trans?

Dan,
Your best bet would be to trade it off for an Oldsmobile:-)
Your second option would be to use some type of liquid pipe sealant sold
at any hardware store.  Silicone would work, but there are better
choices, IMHO.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 10:27:11 -0500
From: "Jason K. Adcock" <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Polyurethane Front End Squeaks Polygraphite

Markintime wrote:
> 
> Yes polygraphite bushings do exist.  They are polyurethane bushings,
> impregnated with graphite to prevent the squeaking poly bushings are famous
> for.  Where most polyurethane bushings are usually red , orange or yellow,
> polygraphite bushings are always black because of the graphite.  At least
> that's true of the one's I've seen.

Yeah, I guess mine are actually polyGRAPHITE ones.  I looked again at the
PST catalog and they are polygraphite.  Also, mine are black, so I guess
that kinda confirms that they are actually not just urethane, but graphite
impregnated.  Still, they ~will~ squeak and squawk when forced to (i.e. a
big fast dip in the road).  I think if Dan's WD-40 suggestion doesn't work,
I'll go to regular rubber bushings (waaay down the road, when I have the
money... :-)
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 10:35:20 -0500
From: "Jason K. Adcock" <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: temp. guage

Daren & Laurie Hendley wrote:
>
> What ever you use make sure it says that it is oxygen sensor safe. If I
> remember right you shouldn't need  sealant just the gasket.

That's what I figured -- actually I didn't even think about it.  :-0  When
I took the old valve off, I scraped the mounting surface real good and
slapped the new one on, with gasket.  When I ran the car, it chugged real
loud when under load.  I took the valve back off and the gasket was real
black in one area.  This means that the exhaust gasses were blowing by the
gasket, which would make the chugging sound.  To fix it, I used 10 year old
Make-A-Gasket in 30 degree weather, so I shouldn't have expected it to be a
permanent fix!  It's supposed to be in the 50's this coming Sunday, so I'll
go by some silicone (02 sensor safe -- thanks!) and try it again...

Thanks for the tip.
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 10:08:21 -0600
From: Robin <webmaster@robinsfyi.com>
Subject: Starting again!

Hi everyone, just another newbe to the group. 

Time to start working on the old girl again. I started in 1980, but had
to take a break...raise the kids. Well its time to start again.

She is a '69 Cutless S. All the plastic up front is chiped and looks
bad. Also the inside is very rough. Need some tips on where to find good
parts. Also need an idea of the price ranges. I've been out for so long,
I'm an easy target to get ripped off.

Thanks

Robin & Patches
Human & Car

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:10:11 -0700
From: Tom Starkey <tstarkey@uswest.net>
Subject: TH350 Swap

Well, the saga has started.

I decided I would do the swap myself, partly based on the positive
comments I received from list members. I figured I would get the
transmission, then start looking for the kickdown cable and bracket,
filler tube and dust cover. Once I have all this together in one spot,
and the weather turns a little warmer, I'll make the switch. Since the
shop doesn't want my 2 sp auto. I'll leave it in until the last minute.

Borrowed a truck, took a day off from work, drove across town to pick up
the trans. to find out they want me to bring in the old one first. Their
going to set up the cable, bracket and all for me. Haven't even started
yet and the fun begins.

Tom Starkey - '68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 10:58:41 -0600
From: "Paul L. Brillhart" <PBRILL1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: Man trans plug sealant

Wyatt@jobax.net wrote:

> OL>I changed the manual trans gear lube on one of my newer cars for
> the
> OL>first time (a n*ss*n).
> OL>I did not use any sealant, as it was not called for
> OL>in the manual.  Well, it is now leaking.  Does anybody know what
> was
> OL>used or what could be used to seal this trans?
>
> Dan,
> Your best bet would be to trade it off for an Oldsmobile:-)
> Your second option would be to use some type of liquid pipe sealant
> sold
> at any hardware store.  Silicone would work, but there are better
> choices, IMHO.
>
> Dave Wyatt
> 70  4-4-2



  Loc Tight makes a good teflon paste.  For that matter, ACE brand will
also do.  Good luck and rem. not to go crazy.  Just coat the threads,
don't glop it on,  and wipe off the excess when it's tightened.  This is
messy stuff. If you like your clothes, don't wipe your hands on them.
Same goes for the inside of your car.


Paul

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 98 11:14:36 GMT
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Soylent Ocean Door Stop

     Karl,
     
     It's been a while, so I don't recall if you said you were getting 
     spark or not.  An interesting problem I had once on a previous 68 442 
     was that the resistor wire to the distributor went bad.  This results 
     in a curious set of symptoms, wherein the car will crank and fire with 
     the key in the START position (since the coil is powered by the 
     non-resistor wire), but as soon as the key is turned to RUN, the car 
     would die.  Have you checked for 12 volts at the coil with the key in 
     both positions?
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 12:32:53 EST
From: CRuper1 <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Intake sealing  (was: bad idle?)

In a message dated 98-01-13 23:17:56 EST, you write:

<< 
    My next move will be to swap the old cast-iron intake back on since
 I've never run this intake on a motor before and it was a used intake.
 I did put a small bead of RVT around each port, but there's nothing to
 say it doesn't have a internal leak.
 HELP! - --> Bob Valentine
 ==============
 
 If you used RTV on the intake ports, I think we found your problem.
 
 Remove the intake, ck carefully for cracks, reinstall with the correct
gaskets
 & goos. Tried adjusting the carb??
 --
 Chris  B. Witt >>

Ahhh..., I didn't notice that the first time I replied to this message
(actually, it didn't sink in, although I read it).  It you used RTV around the
intake ports, it'd suck that stuff in faster than you could get it started the
first time (sooo..., how does RTV burn...).  The only thing I use when
installing the manifolds is RTV around the >WATER< ports, and on the corner of
each end gasket (rubber type).  On the intake ports I use high tack spray
(Permatex) on both sides, then install.  Use the "turkey tray" type of valley
pan gasket, easy to use.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 21:29:04 -0800
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Re: Drum to Disc

Gary,
Not totally sure on this one, but on my '66 98 the swap cost about $700 or
so, though I think there
are ways to do it much cheaper. Your key concern is whether or not the
spindles from a 69-70
could fit or be modified to fit your a-arms. I think these changed from 64
to 65, but maybe not.

If they are common from 64-66, you can follow the directions I've posted
here before. If you need
them, I can send 'em or perhaps someone saved them. Upshot is you're
getting a better (and safer)
braking system by upgrading to the 69-70 system, but you buy into the
problem of finding 69-70 rotors
which do not interchange with 71 and up. Also you'll need an adjustable
proportioning valve to reduce
pressure to the rears to balance the front/rear brake bias. Can't remember
which are s'posed to lock 
up first for safety.

Anyway ballpark is 700 bucks before any custom machining to fabricate a
link between your a-arms
and later spindles.

Hope this helps.
cf


At 10:00 AM 1/11/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Not totally satisfied with the braking on my '64 Olds Dynamic 88, and want
>to consider switching out the drum brakes and going to disc.  What are your
>suggestions?  Is it worth doing?  How much dinero?
>
>Thanks,
>
>G
>          \\|//
>          (o o)                     
>~~~~~~oOOo~(_)~oOOo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>Gary M. Manton					SAS Institute
>Business Solutions Division			Phoenix, AZ  85012
>(602) 265-1616 ext. 230 - voice		        (602) 265-8585 - fax
>						(888) 982-4079 - Pager
>
>"In business as in life, your chances of being run over are doubled
>if you stay in the middle of the road"
>~~~~~~oooo~~~~~oooo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>
Christian Fair

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:47:30 -0800
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: temp. guage

Try the Mr. Gasket or Robertshaw 180 degree high-flow thermostat.  Both my '79
260 and my '84 307 ran as hot as yours, which I thought was too hot.  On the '79
the 180 t-stat coupled with a new 3-row radiator (stock is 2-row with a 260)
solved the problem.  On the '84 the t-stat coupled with water wetter (put both
in at the same time, so I can't say which is more responsible) brought temps
down to 180 normal, 190 with AC on or going over mountain passes.  After I moved
my auxilliary tranny cooler out from in front of the radiator it now stays rock
steady at 180 all the time.  Both cars pass emissions just fine with the 180
high-flow t-stat.

Doug Newman wrote:

> Jason quoted Matt:
>
> >> My temperature guage on my 85 442 runs at about 210-220 degrees during
> >> normal operating range.  I always wondered about that also.
>
> Then Jason wrote:
>
> >My 84 307 runs about 210 all the time.  With the air conditioning on, it'll
> >creep up to 220, but usually fall down to 215 in a matter of a minute or
> >so.
>
> <snip>
>
> Jason, my '87 307 always runs between 210-220, also.  Same reading as yours
> with the A/C going.  I always thought this was high, but I guess I'm so used
> to my truck never getting above 170.  (I get the 307 flushed periodically,
> also.)  These posts make me feel a lot better about the higher operating
> temp of the Olds.  It hasn't climbed into the red yet, so I suppose 210 is
> okay...
>
> Doug Newman
> Columbus, MS
> 1987 442
>
> http://www.442.com/newman.html



- --
Tom Lentz, tlentz@ior.com                        '84 Hurst/Olds #2118
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz                       '78 Cutlass Supreme
Network Admin, CPM Corp, Spokane, WA.            '78 Chev 1/2ton (Olds 350)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 13:24:09 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Starting again!

cheapest place to find used parts is your local junkyard.

you might have to drive to a few different one's, but if money is tight,
you'll save

aaron

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 98 10:41:54 PST8
From: hpnaepflin@CCGATE.HAC.COM
Subject: 70 Cutlass Wheel well chrome?

What other body styles have rear wheel well trim that interchanges with a '70
Cutlass convertible?  Does the "round shoulder" fastback body have the same
wheel well shape?  The convertible looks closer to the "square shoulder" Supreme
fender but maybe they all use the same trim strip?

Who kows for sure?

Thanks, hans

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 11:10:27 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Ignited

     I know we have beat the ignition upgrade debate to death before
with a majority of the vote going to the HEI, BUT; due to a ~crazy~
desire to have a stock underhood appearance I don't necessarily want
to put HEI on all of my cars. I'm looking for some kind of electronic
trigger device to retrofit into a point-type distributor. I don't want
any kind of LED or light triggered device....seems like all the OEM
stuff is magnetic....with good reason! Lights burn out! 
     I remember HAYS made a mag trigger...is it still available? I
want to be able to buy the trigger separately so that I can use my
choice of box....HAYS, MSD, etc. 

===
John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

65 Delta 88 2dr    70 Cutlass S 2dr       72 Cutlass conv   
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31       72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr   70 442 W30 conv        72 442 W30 conv 
70 Cutlass S 2dr   71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 15:39:03 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Ignited

Most of the buzz here is for the Pertronix ignitor. It's a Hall Effect 
trigger that replaces your points/condensor assembly and gives a stock 
appearance under the hood. Gregg Ludlam (once of this list, now of the 
Toro list) converted his car and sent a very detailed account to the 
list last year; I'll see if I can find it. 

The one drawback for me is that on a 350 Rocket the instructions say 
you have to grind away a bit of the distributor gear once you shim the 
distributor, in order to avoid binding. That scared me away, quite 
honestly, and made me doubt how well the thing was actually designed. 
But many have used it with no problems, so maybe I'm wrong. I'm still 
tempted to give it a try; the idea of losing the points and being able 
to use a hotter coil is quite appealing.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 14:35:23 +0000
From: tcjmiami@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: Ignited

JC Whitney has two systems:
One fits under the Distubor cap ($76.95) the other is external using 
the existing points ($119.95).

I have not used either system myself, however I used external "CD" 
systems on many cars in the 70s with excellent results.


     I know we have beat the ignition upgrade debate to death before
with a majority of the vote going to the HEI, BUT; due to a ~crazy~
desire to have a stock underhood appearance I don't necessarily want
to put HEI on all of my cars. I'm looking for some kind of electronic
trigger device to retrofit into a point-type distributor. I don't want
any kind of LED or light triggered device....seems like all the OEM
stuff is magnetic....with good reason! Lights burn out! 
     I remember HAYS made a mag trigger...is it still available? I
want to be able to buy the trigger separately so that I can use my
choice of box....HAYS, MSD, etc. 

===
John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

65 Delta 88 2dr    70 Cutlass S 2dr       72 Cutlass conv   
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31       72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr   70 442 W30 conv        72 442 W30 conv 
70 Cutlass S 2dr   71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


Tom Johnson
1970 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 14:51:23 +0000
From: tcjmiami@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Valve Spring Compressor

Has any one used the Lisle on-the-vehicle Valve Spring compressor?

This tool looks has two handles and a cam acutator. 

I want to replace the valve seals on my 70 Rocket 350 and would like 
to have first hand review of this tool before starting the project.




Tom Johnson
1970 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 14:56:21 EST
From: TFX FLYER <TFXFLYER@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 1970 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

im sorry i dont have info about that ,but if you or anyone is interested i do
have the new brochures for a70 cutlass options that came with the car it
.there are 2 of them and they show all the optoins that were avalibale for the
70 culass line.
    thnxs tfx

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 15:00:42 EST
From: TFX FLYER <TFXFLYER@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Ignited

have you tried year one they have replacement triggering devices that replace
points
 thnxs tfx

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 15:09:40 +0000
From: "Joe Gerschutz" <gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1055

Could someone please forward me a copy of #1055, mine got messed up 
somehow.

Thanks

Joe



- --------------------------------------------------
- ---Joe Gerschutz------------------------------
- ---University of Dayton----------------------
- ---gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu--------
- --------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 15:15:53 +0000
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Are these good prices?

Kevin Hoopingarner wrote:
> 
> Matt,
> 
> I'm curious about the swapmeet.  I live in Findlay ~50 mi. south of Toledo
> and would like to make it up there if it looks as though it may be worth
> while.  What type of a swap meet is it and where is it being held?  Is it
> for all makes/models?, circle track?,  muscle cars????  Any info would be
> appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Kevin Hoopingarner
> '70 Olds 442 W-30
> Findlay OH.

It's basically an *everything car* kind of swap meet. People just bring
their stuff to sell to people with any kind of car. Last year, I bought
chrome valve covers for my Cutlass. It's at the Lucas Cty. Rec. Center.

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 14:42:21 -0600
From: Robin <webmaster@robinsfyi.com>
Subject: Re: Starting again!

Been there done that, there appears to be a shortage of good body parts
in this neck of the woods. I got most of the front cap from the junk
yard in 1980.

Robin
> 
> cheapest place to find used parts is your local junkyard.
> 
> you might have to drive to a few different one's, but if money is tight,
> you'll save
> 
> aaron

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 14:49:47 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: ultimate parts car

> Finally got the url for the ultimate parts car... check it out, find a
================
Well, *I* put the front wheels on, to drag it home. This is the one where the
wheels would not turn, so we DRAGGED it about 1.5 miles until we wore thru the
tires... then the wheels... and into the brake drums. Then ran out of torch
fuel removing the drums from the hubs... and finished the job with a chisel and
hammer. Heh.

Oh, and those ARE bullet holes you see there. Lots of 'em, too.
- - --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
- ----------

That car was really a sight to see!! Wasn't there like one pot metal letter that
could be saved? Aren't those bullet holes, I mean lead inside the car, an
advantage when it comes to weighing at the crusher?
- -- 
David Brown              Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com      OR     http://www.en.com/users/thall
    http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
  http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/zip/oldsfaq4.zip

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 16:39:25 -0500
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: [none]

unsubscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 13:47:02 -0800
From: "mr. coy d. arbogast" <coyster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: '68 Delta Parts Needed

Greg
We are going this weekend to look at some of the older oldsmobiles in
nevada. Do you still need parts?
Thanks Coy

- ----------
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
> To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: UNBOUNCE: '68 Delta Parts Needed
> Date: Friday, January 02, 1998 11:38 AM
> 
> Not a list member, if anyone can help, please contact ridn88@aol.com 
> directly.
> 
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
> 
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From:	Rid n 88 <Ridn88@aol.com>
> Subject: olds parts
> 
> needed parts for 1968 olds delta 88 2dr. Lt front fender, hood, trunk
lid,
> rear quarters, or section around rear wheel wells. can anybody help?
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 16:48:13 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Fernando's misread message.

> Well of course that's what I meant. But Mike has corrected me
> accordingly. Thank you...
> 
Fernando, 

Dude, don't take it personally, I wasn't trying to step on anyone's
toes.  And I wasn't trying to "correct" anyone.  The way I read your
post was that in your opinion you'd automatically flood your engine by
using a bigger cfm carb.  I simply stated that I somewhat disagreed,
that's all.  I apologize if I misread your post.  Your VE calculations
were a definite help for anyone needing to know where to start when
choosing the right size cfm rating for the carb.

I was on one of those "crack-it-open-and-see-how-it-really-works"
tangents.  I thought the explanation of why bigger cfm carbs aren't
always better would hopefully discourage others from buying parts that
ain't right for their application just because some guy at the parts
store says it is.  A lot of the parts guys DO know what they're talking
about, it's that small percentage of "door-knobs" you want to avoid.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 17:03:28 -0500
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@mail.cvn.net>
Subject: transmission swap continued

From Ken Swick

Sure enough the 77 PA 19965 transmission fit
It was a Pontiac with 4" tail shaft.

Now ... the filler tube is lose. I do believe it
should be tight. Is there an easy fix ...
How do I remove filler tube and repair it?

Thanks Ken  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 16:10:34 -0600
From: "LAURA D. STEINKE" <WPODOM1.HORT-FOREST.LSTEINKE@taexgw.tamu.edu>
Subject: Engine Update!!!

I want to thank everyone for the suggestions and help on the last few
messages.  Unfortunatly things still arn't the best.  I did go down to Cooks
(the people doing the rebuild) to take a look at the replacement engine.  It
was a 455 Olds, but a 'Fa' casting, not 'F' as mine was....I decided I was
going to be picky and told them that I would like the same casting as mine. 
Apparently as soon as I left they called my mechanic and whined about
how I didn't like the engine they got.  How they were all the same, but I
didn't like the casting *NUMBER*.  

I proceeded to tell my mechanic the differance in as few words as
possible.  That it had nothing to do with the number but the engine itself. 
Poor guy, I'm sure his eyes were glazing over <grin>

This means I'm going to have to trash the letter I had all written up to give
to Cooks and write a new one with all the information about the
differance between the two 455's (Long live the FAQ) so they can't
forget or whine or anything else.  BTW, just in case they say they can't
find a 'F' casting block, does anyone know where I can direct them?

Thanks.

Laura
66 Delta 88 aka Pook
Plano, TX (starting the 16th)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 14:11:24 -0800
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: 1970 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

TFX FLYER wrote:
> 
> im sorry i dont have info about that ,but if you or anyone is interested i do
> have the new brochures for a70 cutlass options that came with the car it
> .there are 2 of them and they show all the optoins that were avalibale for the

I would be nice if we could get these scanned so that we all can
enjoy them.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 17:22:19 +0500
From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Subject: Re: Soylent Ocean Door Stop

>No. Soylent Ocean Mist still has not started. For those of you joining late, I
>shall review the facts.

Hi Carl.  Sorry to hear about your trouble.  Yup, I'm joining late, I
haven't been keeping up with the list lately. Sorry if my suggestions have
been covered already. 

>Week of New Tears Eve (sp or no - you decide): work Mon and Tue. Gas up on way
>home Tues. using 93 octane from a local (formerly Union) 76 station which has
>not yet dealt me bad gas. 
<SNIP>
> 5:40am on Jan 5 approximately
>50 degrees and has been raining since Saturday. She absolutely will not start.

  Any chance water has condensed in the gas tank or in the holding tank of
the union 76 station before you gassed up?  If you somehow got a snootful of
water in the fuel lines that might be enough to keep it from initially
starting.  Just for the hell of it (and to be *absolutely* sure gas isn't
the problem) you could pour a tablespoon of gas down the carb and see if she
fires.  (An oil container cap works great for this, BTW.  I always flood it
when I try and nurse a little splash out of a half-full 5-gallon can. :) 

>Sounds: Starter sounds normal. While cranking cylinders occasionally fire;
>this is not unusual, often she will miss on at least one cylinder until after
>starting. Sometimes enough cylinder firing goes on that it sounds like it is
>starting, but when I disengage the starter one cylinder at most fires before
>it promptly dies.

Do you know if you're getting voltage to the coil when the key's on?  When
the ignition switch is in the start position it feeds 12 volts to the coil
to boost the spark and help start the car.  When the switch is in the on
position it feeds less voltage (6 or 8 volts, I can't remember) to prolong
the life of the points.  If there's a wire broke or disconnected somewhere
then you may only be getting voltage while the switch is turned to start.
So the engine dies as soon as you let off the key.  Grab a meter or test
light and make sure you have voltage when the ignition is on.

<MORE SNIP>

>Engine Analyser: Battery = 12v, checked points resistance and it is OK. Dwell
>is now 30 degrees (specification).
>
>To do: It occurred to me to check the coil resistor which is not involved in
>starting but is in ignition, hope to check it tonight.

Whoops, sorry.  Guess I didn't need to give you the start vs. on voltage
dissertation.  :)  Oh well, ya got voltage when the switch is on?

>When I replace
>coil/resistor I will clean the spark plug wires (doubt that will change
>anything). On the other hand it was 4 degrees this morning. I am going to take
>a sample of gasoline to work tomorrow and check it for water or (heaven
>forfend!) sugar with the InfraRed spectraphotometer (unfortunately there is
>not one in my toolbox). I want to rule out the sugar possibility before I do
>any more cranking. 

Doesn't water tend to settle in the bottom of the tank instead of mixing
with the gas?  I was just thinking that if there's water in the gas you may
not detect it if you take a sample from the top of the tank.  BTW, does
sugar in the gas just gum up the works, or does it do permanent damage?

Good luck.  Hope you get it running soon.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Surpeme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 18:49:41 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Ignited 

Here's the relevant part of Gregg Ludlam's post on the Pertronix:


On Mon, 16 Dec 1996, Gregg Ludlam wrote:
> It works very well, but clearances are critical - the first thing
> you have to do is pull the distributor, take off the drive gear (one
> roll-pin...very easy) and add a couple of shims between the drive gear and
> the body of the dist.  This keeps lateral travel of the shaft to a minimum
> and aides in maintaining Hal Cell to Ring Magnet clearance. After
> reinstalling the dist., you add additional shims between the rotor and the
> Ring Magnet assembly, cutting the total distance between the Cell and the
> Magnet to less than .040".  

> One word of caution - if you install this
> little beauty in a small block Olds engine, the instructions say to remove
> an equal amount of thickness from the bottom of the gear that you added 
from
> the shims to prevent the drive gear from seizing against the engine block.
> Don't know what that's all about, but it's got me scared because I'd 
love to
> put one of these in my '72 Gutlass S.


Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 07:11:42 -0500
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: Ignited

At 11:10 AM 1/14/98 -0800, you wrote:

>with a majority of the vote going to the HEI, BUT; due to a ~crazy~
>desire to have a stock underhood appearance I don't necessarily want
>to put HEI on all of my cars. I'm looking for some kind of electronic
>trigger device to retrofit into a point-type distributor. I don't want
>any kind of LED or light triggered device....seems like all the OEM
>stuff is magnetic....with good reason! Lights burn out! 

    It's a light, but it's really a LED, which have MTBF's of how many 
thousands of hours?  I can't think of the last LED/optical trigger I saw 
burned out.  I've seen more bad magnetic triggers than any other!

>want to be able to buy the trigger separately so that I can use my
>choice of box....HAYS, MSD, etc. 

    Last time I checked MSD will trigger off points with the condensor
removed.  So will a Mopar spark box.  ;^)

>John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com
>Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak


- --> Bob Valentine
- --> ravalent@liii.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 07:25:24 -0500
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: Intake sealing  (was: bad idle?)

At 12:32 PM 1/14/98 EST, you wrote:

>In a message dated 98-01-13 23:17:56 EST, you write:
> If you used RTV on the intake ports, I think we found your problem.
> Remove the intake, ck carefully for cracks, reinstall with the correct
>gaskets
> & goos. Tried adjusting the carb??
> --
> Chris  B. Witt >>
>
>Ahhh..., I didn't notice that the first time I replied to this message
>(actually, it didn't sink in, although I read it).  It you used RTV around
the
>intake ports, it'd suck that stuff in faster than you could get it started
the
>first time (sooo..., how does RTV burn...).  The only thing I use when

      Aggh! I forgot AGAIN to say that I used *LIQUID* RTV on the ports...   
I know about the failure rate using a bead of RTV - from the hard way!  

      I've already swapped the carb since the carb wasn't that great before
the new motor went in.   I may already have a different trail to follow,
since 
last night I noticed that the timing mark wasn't exactly stable; kinda like
the 
distributor was missing a pulse every now and then.   It doesn't look like the
worn chain "wandering" look however...  

       I'm planning on swapping in a different distributor to see if this
helps.  
The next step will be intake R&R, then will be front cover removal and
check the chain 
alignment.   If this doesn't work, then I'm not sure what I'll do.  

 	Again, I'd be interested in hearing from anyone running a JM18-20; I had
a cam 
with simular specs (214/224 @ .050 lift) in a Chevy 350 a few years ago and
it only 
had a slight burble at idle - nothing like this.

>Chris Ruper


- --> Bob Valentine
- --> ravalent@liii.com

------------------------------

Date: 14 Jan 1998 19:41:20 EDT
From: Wyatt@jobax.net
Subject: Lucky Day

I went to the local BMV to re-license one of our cars today.  The plates
had expired last October 31.  If I had done this before the first of
this year I would have received a sticker and used the metal plate one
more year.  Since it is the year for new plates I ended up with a new
one.  The number after the county prefix is 409.  After I left the BMV I
started thinking about the numbers in the 400 series.  I realized that
my chances of getting 442 were pretty good.  After a big U-turn I rushed
back and inquired if the holy 442 number was available.  (You can
reserve plate numbers in Indiana)  It was available and I now have it
registered to my 4-4-2.  Of course all of this may create more trouble.
With the 409 number I feel the need to locate a '63 or '64 409 ch*vy to
transfer the plate to.  Good thing I didn't get 747 or I might have
wanted an airplane :-)

Grateful to be living in a low population county,
Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 20:13:26 -0500
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Fwd: 442 in Texas, Info wanted

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Hi gang,

This fella got my address from the club page at My Classic Car.  Not a
list member.  Can someone help him?  Please reply directly to him.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

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Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:45:39 -0600
From: Bill Croop <croop@brcsun0.tamu.edu>
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I found you club on My Classic Car Home page.  I am located in Texas and
I am looking at a 1972 442.  It is a one owner car and is in very good
shape.  I am not sure what to purchase the car for.  It is auto on the
floor, 350 and has 110k.  It is in very good shape.  He bought the car
brand new in 72.  Can you give me any insight or where to look for
pricing?

Thanks,

Bill Croop
croop@brcsun0.tamu.edu


- --------------2DEA78302A8A--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 20:29:31 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: NON-Expiring registration for Michigan

For all you Michigander's out there that don't already know;

January of '97, MI came out with a new type of registration for "antique"
cars (25 years or older).

If you get a plate the same year as your car, you can apply for an
"Authentic" registration.  It's a ONE-TIME $35.00 fee!  No yearly tabs to
buy!  Lansing stamps the proof of registration;

   AUTHENTIC
NON-EXPIRING

This is a much better deal than going the "Historical Vehicle" route.
Technically, a car with "Historical Vehicle" plates can only be driven to
and from a show or parade event during day light.  The state's brochure on a
"Authentic" plate states the car can be driven during parades, show or club
events, Etc.

It's the ETC that excites me.  Just what is the legal definition of "etc"
anyway?  My definition is JOY RIDING!

I bought a new, unused set of '71 plates at the Olds Homecoming show last
June for $15.  Being that they are new, no tabs were on them.  So, I drive
around with 1971 plates that have no month or year tab!  Last summer I got
pulled over 3 TIMES because of this.  The cop(s) had no idea of this "new
law" and let me go while scratching their heads.  :)

Just thought I would spread the good news so others can take advantage of
this deal!

HMMM......., $35.00 for a "non-expiring" registration, now that's how it
should be!   :)

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
1995 Achieva S

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 20:23:25 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: transmission swap continued

> Now ... the filler tube is lose. I do believe it
> should be tight. Is there an easy fix ...
> How do I remove filler tube and repair it?
> 
The tube is held in by a bolt that mounts through the tab near the upper
end of the tube.  With this out, the tranny tube slips out of the
casing, as it is held in only with an o-ring around the tube section
that goes into the tranny. This tube may be a little flimsy by itself,
without being bolted in. Not real tight.  That's normal.  That's because
the o-ring is somewhat flexible.  Best to replace it while it's out
though.  you can get the right size most likely at your auto parts
store.  Just make sure you use that mounting tab. If this slips out
while running....Ooouch!  Not good.  Once it's bolted in place, you
should be OK.  

If it is really sloppy, then remove the tube and find out why.  It may
be because the O-ring has dried out and is either brittle or broken. 
Or, some "master monkey-mechanic" didn't know what he was doing at one
time and screwed it up.

2 cents,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1057
*********************************

