
oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, January 1 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1036



Re: New Radio for Cutlass
NEW YEAR'S EVE
Re: New Radio for Cutlass
Experiences, experiences
HI - 50 olds coupe needs help
new exhaust!
hny
RE: 69 442 FOR $300
Shifter stuck and New Year etc
Re: Experiences, experiences
Re: new exhaust!
Re: Experiences, experiences
hello
Aftermarket quarter panels (Was Re: Experiences, experiences)
Re: Experiences, experiences
Re: Experiences, experiences
Re: Experiences, experiences
Re: '73-'77 455 A-Body Headers
Re: Experiences, experiences
Re: Experiences,/ more experiences
RE: Happy new year
Opinion Survey
Date:	Thu, 1 Jan 1998 12:03:44 -0500
Re: Parts for Sale
Re: 1970 W-32?
Scrap C heads
New Location
Re: Mileage from a 455
rocker installation?
Torkey 403
Lock/Heater/Stop Lights/Carb Questions 
Re: Aftermarket quarter panels (Was Re: Experiences, experiences)
Re: '73-'77 A-Body Headers
Re: 69 442 FOR $300 - 770-482-9219
Re: Experiences, experiences - wanted left rear 1/4 69 442 conv
Re: Experiences, experiences - brothers/quarters
Re: Back!
Re: Lock/Heater/Stop Lights/Carb Questions
Re: Aftermarket quarter panels (Was Re: Experiences, experiences)
Re: Ford man/Was Headlight Knob, B/C bodies
Re: '73-'77 455 A-Body Headers
Head ID question
Re: new exhaust!
Car Show
s/n ratio
Re: Experiences, experiences
Re: Aftermarket quarter panels (Was Re: Experiences, experiences)
Dics Brakes
ground thru shifter cable
Re: plug change record
www.myclassiccar.com?
Re: Opinion Survey
Re: Car Show
answer
Engine Question?
Intake Manifold Update
Re: Lock/Heater/Stop Lights/Carb Questions 
Re: answer
Re: Intake Manifold Update
Re: answer
Re: Mileage from a 455
Re: new exhaust!
Speedvision Road & Track Episode

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 20:34:07 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: New Radio for Cutlass

Art,

I've heard of these conversions for a few years now.  I understand that they
practically rebuild the whole radio.  The only factory parts left are the
cosmetic ones & the case.  I heard that they were high too & $350 sounds
high to me.  I had heard $250 or so - inflation?

I still plan to do some of this.  The old AM's are not up to my more modern
ears.  It is some encouragement that you think that the quality is good.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible


>Tim,
>If you would want your original radio in your dash, there is a guy in
Dallas
>that converts your original radio to stereo. This is a recent change in
>modifying old radios. I just had a 72 am radio converted to stereo and it
really
>sounds good. Cost is a little high, like $350. If anybody is interested I
will
>supply the name and number.
>
>Art Fuller
>mefco@sprynet.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 22:43:33 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: NEW YEAR'S EVE

From my family to yours, a HAPPY NEW YEAR!   Now if spring were only
here to lay the top back on a ragtop Olds and do a little cruising.  
Snow on the ground in central Ky and cold temps.  Hope everyone had a
good 1997.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 18:57:08 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: New Radio for Cutlass

mefco@sprynet.com wrote:
> 
> If anybody is interested I will supply the name and number.

I am interested.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 19:19:03 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Experiences, experiences

Hi all,

Well I have some news on the car repair front.  I went by the shop,
I have been going every day for the last 2 days to see what they are
doing, since the body manager said that there was a problem with the
rear quarter panel I gave him to fix my damaged rear quarter panel.
Come to find out that this after-market panel is really inferior and
didn't come close to factory specifications (dimensions and contouring).
It was a little too much on the bottom and too little on the top.  Also
it wasn't long enough to go from the door jamb.  If I had wanted to
replace all the way from the door jamb back, it wouldn't have been a
reality.  I wasn't expecting such a kludgey part.  With the money I 
spent, you would have thought that it would have been more right.  I
purchased this panel from Brother's Automotive, I assume all the 
vendors use the same panels, however they should be informed (Steve
this is directed at you as well) that it is very misleading to sell a
part like this as an acceptable replacement part when in reality it is
not.  I can see a part having extra metal on the perimeters that can
be cut away, however, it is unacceptable to have it too short in a 
place that will be visible to the public.  My body man is going to
have to pull rabbits out of a hat to get this to work.

Thank God the body man who is working on the car has been doing body
since 1962.  This man works miracles.  On the frame repair he managed
to pull out the dent in the frame to the point where I can't even
tell that it was even dented at all.  I am very discriminating when
it comes to my car and if there was a slight flaw I would have
definitely seen it.

BTW, the body man decided to go mid wheel well for the cut.  I guess
all of the seams with be hidden so that I will not be able to see a
line at all.  Good thinking if you ask me.

Later....

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 23:35:34 EST
From: Wrencher43 <Wrencher43@aol.com>
Subject: HI - 50 olds coupe needs help

 HI AND HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL:
   
  Just thought I'd pop in to say hello to all and wish everyone a Happy New
Year.  I'm a new subscriber to the mailing list and have been reading the
posts for two days now.  
   I have been a mechanic for over 35 years and have been an Olds fan since my
teens.  I noticed that most posts are 69-72 Cutlass and 442 (good machines).
My current project is a 50 Coupe (88).  After many years of searching I found
one 30 miles from my home.  I have retained as much stock appearance as
possible, but the rust is major (any other car and I would not consider even
trying to saving it).  So far the drivetrain I have set up is a 10 to 1 - 455
bored 40 over, muncie 4 speed etc. 
   Anyone who knows of any  body parts anywhere (hood can not be saved) rocker
panels etc., I would love to hear from you.  Any E-Mail will be answered.  
   Also glad to help with any  automotive problems, new or old. 

   Wrencher43@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 23:39:39 EST
From: BIG JERMES <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: new exhaust!

i finally got my headers and 2.5" exhaust put on today!  holy cow batman!!!
those flowmasters sound like they are having no problem flowing!  i got
headman headers, flowmaster 2 chambers, and 2.5" pipes on my '78 cutlass with
a 350 olds.  i installed a double hump crossmember for the pipes, also.  this
new exhaust really picks the car up above 2000 rpms!  takes off!  i am truly
tickled pink, fellas!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 22:40:34 -0800 (PST)
From: Jack Karamanos <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: hny

happy new year and may you leave many twin snakes on the ground and whack
your et's by .5 and all the parts fit right the first time and the law is
always looking the other way when you are being errant

smokem till the tires fall off
47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 00:09:53
From: <terrywiles@usa.net>
Subject: RE: 69 442 FOR $300

I accidedently deleted the message with the name, number, and location of the guy that had the '69 442 for cheap.   Could whomever posted that message please send it to me!?!?!!   I am VERY interested, since I have parts, and my father in law is making a trip down to that part of the country next week with his truck.   ANYONE else that still has that message, please forward it to me.



THANKS A BUNCH, and HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL!!!!!



Terry Wiles

'70 Supreme
____________________________________________________________________
Get free e-mail and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 03:02:50 EST
From: KarlAune <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Shifter stuck and New Year etc

First of all Happy New Year.

2). Approx. two months ago I had a problem with Soylent Ocean Mist; after an
hour of driving and maybe being parked (engine off) 15 min. key turns, idiot
lights flash (some of us recognize as internal sparking) and smoke from under
hood. Problem: 30 year old battery cables/ground have corroded too much.

Above prob. solved by snipping ground from neg battery cable. But later that
rainy night, something else shorted; car not start.

Some of you (Doc Bob?) may remember my consternation a few months ago when I
tried to put in a high-mount brake light for safety, but could not because I
could not find an adequate source of ground on the back of Soylent Ocean Mist.
 
Little known fact: I spent my second evening in Lansing winding a red 10 guage
batt cable with black electrical tape for future peace of mind (used
before/after as negative batt. cable!)

General warning: In order for current (electrons) to flow, mass (hunks of
wire) must be removed/deposited somewhere. Please feel free to replace
positive and negative batt cables and even wiring harness if necesary!.

3)   And I quote: "My french is coming back to me." 

Frankly Mr. McCall, I do not believe that there is a single person who cannot
identify with that. Myself included. Congratulations on your largely
successfull repairs.

4)  Someone of late has declared to be restoring a 1965 Dynamic 88. Have no
fear. I will be in touch with you soon. AND I have much information.  BTW your
accounting experience will come in handy..........

5) I want to send a warm greeting to those of you whom I met in lansing.

6) Equally entuiastically to those of you who either could not make it to
Lansing or who Joined the list relatively recently (esp. "Screech" and M.
Cremean [sp?]).

7) Finally, I want to wish Esko and Illola ei god nyt ar. (Damn font wont give
me the proper characters!)

K Aune

"The needs of the Oldsmobile restorer outweigh the needs of the many, and the
few, and the one." - K. Aune, (while wrestling with a timing chain)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 03:08:18 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Experiences, experiences

mrada wrote:
the body manager said that there was a problem with the
> rear quarter panel I gave him to fix my damaged rear quarter panel.
> Come to find out that this after-market panel is really inferior and
> didn't come close to factory specifications (dimensions and contouring).

That part should be guaranteed to fit as original.  Anyplace I ever
bought parts from (factory and aftermarket) guaranteed the quality. 
Crappy fit is part of the guarantee given by most reputable companies. 
Send it back and get one that can be installed like it is supposed to be
instead of cobbled in.  The best body man in the world needs quality
parts to be most proficient in his art.  I doubt you will be pleased
with the final result if you don't.  Just my 2 cents.  Good luck either
way you chose to go.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 09:56:47 +0100
From: "cb006323" <usi.con@consunet.nl>
Subject: Re: new exhaust!

Can you plse tell me how you did that, I have problems finding a simular
exaust for my '76 350 olds.
Hope you can help me.
greetings from archy (netherlands)
- -----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 08:07:49 EST
From: SRB442 <SRB442@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Experiences, experiences

Hi,
    I hope everyone had a nice Holiday. I am restoring a 1970 442 and got
aftermarket quater panels and were disappointed also. They look good until you
go to install them they are close but not quite perfect. I replaced the right
quater and just cut out what I needed to repair the left. They were better
that nothing but if I had it to do over again I would have paid the extra for
a N.O.S. panel. This was not a numbers matching 442 and I plan on driving this
car quite a bit so it was no big deal. They look fine once installed except
for the amount of plastic you need to finish them.
    On another note I am still looking for a N.O.S. Accelarator cable 408863
or a good used one. Somebody must have a body sitting around with a cable
still in it. I want to have this car at the O.C.A nationals in July.  Steve
1967 442
1970 442
1973 442
1985 Delta 88 Royale Brougham

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 10:07:20 EST
From: OldsGuyGA <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: hello

 does anyone know what state the 69 442 was in... for $300

   jeff atl ga...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 10:17:09 -0500
From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Subject: Aftermarket quarter panels (Was Re: Experiences, experiences)

Steve,

Where did you buy this aftermarket quarter panel?  I am planning on 
replacing both of mine in the near future....are there any reputable 
aftermarket body panel manufacturers other than N.O.S.?  Any insight from 
anyone is appreciated!


>Hi,
>    I hope everyone had a nice Holiday. I am restoring a 1970 442 and got
>aftermarket quater panels and were disappointed also. They look good until you
>go to install them they are close but not quite perfect. I replaced the right
>quater and just cut out what I needed to repair the left. They were better
>that nothing but if I had it to do over again I would have paid the extra for
>a N.O.S. panel. This was not a numbers matching 442 and I plan on driving this
>car quite a bit so it was no big deal. They look fine once installed except
>for the amount of plastic you need to finish them.
>    On another note I am still looking for a N.O.S. Accelarator cable 408863
>or a good used one. Somebody must have a body sitting around with a cable
>still in it. I want to have this car at the O.C.A nationals in July.  Steve
>1967 442
>1970 442
>1973 442
>1985 Delta 88 Royale Brougham
>
>


Mike Evans
Richland, MI
evans1@net-link.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 09:51:07 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Experiences, experiences

Chris,

It sounds as if you have a professional at work on your car.  The mid
quarter patch is a very good idea.  Everything can be sealed at this point
with no bare metal in corners to worry with.  Those seams at doors are
really impossible to seal as far as I can see.  The other side of the coin
is that you will be able to finish the patch inside so that it isn't
detectable.  I feel confident that you will get the job on this car that you
expect and are paying for.

I sympathize with your disappointment in these panels.  Few I have seen are
worth much.  Many times I have seed body shops just repair the old metal
rather than use these parts after it is seen what they look like.  There
should be a warning of the nature of these things up front.  The companies
know what they are selling.  If they cannot produce better, then they should
let you know what they are producing.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible


>Hi all,
>
>Well I have some news on the car repair front.

, I assume all the
>vendors use the same panels, however they should be informed (Steve
>this is directed at you as well) that it is very misleading to sell a
>part like this as an acceptable replacement part when in reality it is
>not.  I can see a part having extra metal on the perimeters that can
>be cut away, however, it is unacceptable to have it too short in a
>place that will be visible to the public.  My body man is going to
>have to pull rabbits out of a hat to get this to work.
>
>Thank God the body man who is working on the car has been doing body
>since 1962.  This man works miracles.
>
>BTW, the body man decided to go mid wheel well for the cut.  I guess
>all of the seams with be hidden so that I will not be able to see a
>line at all.  Good thinking if you ask me.
>
>Later....
>
>Chris Sparks
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 07:28:11 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Experiences, experiences

Don Sowers wrote:
> 
> That part should be guaranteed to fit as original.  Anyplace I ever
> bought parts from (factory and aftermarket) guaranteed the quality.
> Crappy fit is part of the guarantee given by most reputable companies.
> Send it back and get one that can be installed like it is supposed to be
> instead of cobbled in.  The best body man in the world needs quality
> parts to be most proficient in his art.  I doubt you will be pleased
> with the final result if you don't.  Just my 2 cents.  Good luck either
> way you chose to go.

Too late now.  The part has been cut and is being attached to the back.
A person could tell that it wouldn't work until he got the part on.  I
feel like I got scr*w*d on this one.

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 11:26:57 EST
From: COUPE KING <COUPEKING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Experiences, experiences

The quality of the panels is highly variable. I had good luck with the GM
authorized repro qtrs available from YO or brothers. Took a good body man to
make them work on my '69 442 rag ( the conv qtrs are very different than the
HT version) but I'm very pleased with the result.
Peter
CoupeKing
LA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 11:41:01 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: '73-'77 455 A-Body Headers

 Mike ,
 Try Hooker - They seem to make one of the better products for 
street application. I don't have the part no's. but any speed shop
in the area should be able to get for you or Summit / Jegs etc.
I bought a set for my 69  last year and they fit w/o any problems.
Would also suggest going the extra mile ($$) and have them ceramic
coated. I have had this on 2 sets to date and the longevity and durability
is well worth the $$.  Plus the look great and keep some heat contained.

Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 07:57:19 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Experiences, experiences

COUPE KING wrote:
> 
> The quality of the panels is highly variable. I had good luck with the GM
> authorized repro qtrs available from YO or brothers. Took a good body man to
> make them work on my '69 442 rag ( the conv qtrs are very different than the
> HT version) but I'm very pleased with the result.

Well I got mine from Brothers.  If these are GM authorized reprodocution
quarters than YO or Brothers should not even sell them since they are
crap.
Maybe I should complain to GM.  Raise all kind of Cain (As steam is 
pouring outside my ears)!

Later...

Chris Sparks

P.S.  Sure makes a person want to cry! :=( :=(

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 11:47:56 EST
From: W30442CS <W30442CS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Experiences,/ more experiences

all of this talk on replacement panels makes me wonder if we all should not
hang on to all our old panels, rusty or not!  im looking into replaceing qrts.
on my 70 cutlass also and have some parts cars with straight panels. they do
have usual rust hole in corner.  if any one has name or more stories on
replacement panels lets here them.                              a friend used
some out of J.C.WHITNEY ,  he said they were decent,but i have not seen them
yet.  has anyone tried the ones in yearone lately?  for now i think im going
to hang on to my old panels.        steven.  w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 11:53:01 -0500
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: Happy new year

it was only 7:00pm and we can read that you may have had a little too
much to drink too soon...1998 I believe you meant..

Anyway Happy News to all.......


> ----------
> From: 	cb006323[SMTP:usi.con@consunet.nl]
> Sent: 	Wednesday, December 31, 1997 7:07 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Happy new year
> 
> <<File: ATT00227.html>>
> To all the members of the olds list a verry happy new year and may the
> best of 1997 be the worst 1989.
> greetings from archy (netherlands)
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 09:49:49 -0700
From: Robert A Sanders <rsanders@holly.colostate.edu>
Subject: Opinion Survey

Happy New Year to all you Olds fans.  Now you all have a chance to start
the new year out with renewed vigor to "get it runnin', make it faster,
chrome it, straighten it, and paint it"  I recently (yesterday)
discovered water in my oil.  Drat!.  This is a 324 CID engine with
@125,000 miles on it.  My wifes grandpa's car (guaranteed to never have
been mistreated).  One cylinder is low @ 77 lbs compared to 125-140 lbs
for the other seven. There is a miss, but the plug is firing.  It runs
great at any speed but lopes when sitting at a traffic light in gear
(auto trans).  What is the problem?  Also, there seems to be an
excessive amount of blow by coming out of the oil filler spout. Any
opinions or learned comments would be appreciated. Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 12:03:44 -0500
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@mail.cvn.net>
Subject: Date:	Thu, 1 Jan 1998 12:03:44 -0500

I have 1966 442 Automatic. Trans growls in low gear; also lifts when
accelerating.
Second/third seem to perform as advertised. Any ideas on most possible
problem.

What transmissions will mount up to my 400 ci engine 1967,68,69,70 etc. 

Really enjoy the car and the slow work of restoration. Car is about 80% now
Paint scheduled for Feb. It is currently red ... but more candle apple and
not
factory. Does anyone know where I can get factory red or specs for painting
to original?

K. Swick Gettysburg PA 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 12:05:12 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Parts for Sale

Tim,

Don't by chance have a 69 sport steering wheel lying around do ya.


Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 12:05:11 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 1970 W-32?

Matt,

Olds retaffed the W-32 in 1970 as the Cultass SX option. Due to insurance
companies getting after the sports performance models with higher premiums.
Olds decided to offer the (455) in the Cutlass Supreme body which you could
order with a 2 bbl and open diff. as a turnpike crusier or could opt for a
higher out put motor rated just under the 442. Only difference btwn the 442
and SX was the suspension and some motor internals ie; cam/springs water pump.
SX all had duals with 
cut out rear bumper and could also be ordered with the ram air hood.

I read an orticle that Olds was going after the market that was same as
Pontiac
with thier Grand Prix SJ / and the F*rd guys with their intermediate line of
semi
luxury line with big motors.

Without the "W" tag to this model it wasn't as apparent to the insurance
companies
that this was actually a 442 in disguise.

I don't thave the figures on the SX but that is what you want to inquire.
W-32 was a designated option only in 1969.

Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 12:34:25 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Scrap C heads

Well, I suppose it was inevitable...

I forgot my favorite pail at the scrap metal dealer. So, I *had* to go back.
While I was there, I investigated the scrap Toro 425 block/ C heads/ #400269
water pump again. Decided to grab the C heads anyhow. Cheap enough, never
regretted buying even busted stuff there yet.

Get to looking at them, find that the exhaust ports look strange. Something
about the shape of the ports, the shape of the gasket surface. Ah-ha! the
center divider is flush with the gasket surface, yet, no evidence of any
buildup or welding or grinding in any of the ports. Hmmmm. Xst ports look not
as tall also. No stamped ID on these C's, though the crossover passage is the
smaller slot commonly found on '67 C's, and the block they were on is a '66-7
Toro or SF block. Some kind of factory trick heads?

No... closer examination reveals the the heads were cut about 0.220" on the xst
surface to bring the gasket surface flush down with the divider. That made the
overall shape of the gasket surface appear different- not just a boss where the
gasket would go, but the whole head surface was one flat area.

Also, the bottom seems to have been milled about 0.040", as the short [corner]
hole height is about 2.185" as opposed to the usual 2.225". So, these chambers
should be about 72-73cc. All this work done on small-valve heads, though? Then,
left to rot on the block, poorly fastened, and the main caps lost. Sheesh.

Well, good for Cutaway Example C's, I guess.

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 12:51:33 -0500
From: "Kurt Shubert" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: New Location

Please note my new E-mail location.  Will also have a web site shortly!

Kurt    wmachine@en.com
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 11:53:25 +0000
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs@flash.net>
Subject: Re: Mileage from a 455

What range of MPG can one expect from driving a 455 power 1974 olds 98. 
I am not a hot rod driver, but I only get about 10 mpg.  Does anyone get
better mileage?  what can be done to improve the MPG?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 13:55:11 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: rocker installation?

Tighten the rocker nut an additional
1/8 turn to seat the the lifter plunger in its bore and this will be
sufficient to start and run the engine. If desired, additional fine tunning of
the lifter plunger preload dimension can be done with the engine running and
after it is warmed up.   Harold Coons
======================
Huh? "rocker nut"? Start the motor with the rocker pedestals not tight? What
kind of voodoo is that?

Must be some Chevy trick.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 14:03:20 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Torkey 403

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 21:10:09 -0600
From: "Samuel E. Johnson, Jr" <cutlass403@ameritech.net>
Subject: 403 vs 455
My question is, I would like to build an olds 403 with about 500 lbs of
torch. My mechanic was telling me to build the 455 but I would rather
build the 403. Can you help me?
===========================
Wow, that's a lot of "torch"! ;-)

A lot of tork or torque, too.

Easiest quick thing to do would be to install 7a or earlier  SB heads in which
you have fitted larger valves from the 403 or maybe even larger W30 2.072"
valves. The 1972 7a heads have larger xst valves also. Great choice.
  Compelement that higher CRatio with a nice spicy cam. Oh, and don't forget
that your rear gears [final drive for FWD cars] serve to multiply the tork. A
numerically higher gear ratio multiplies the tork more.

For a lot more tork, you could add Nitrous or HC pistons, either of which get
you into a full rebuild a a lot of money. If you were going to do that anyhow,
fine. Frankly, I would think getting *500* #ft out of a small block w/o N2O
would be difficult. That little crank is just too short to make that kind of
tork.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 14:03:07 -0500
From: Kathy Gerschutz <kgersch@bright.net>
Subject: Lock/Heater/Stop Lights/Carb Questions 

I have several questions on my newly aquired (for $50) car.  Any replies would be appreciated.
1:  I need a door key made for my 82 cutlass, and am planning on removing the trunk lock cylinder and having a key made from that at a dealership.  I removed the
latch and retaining clip from the trunk lock, but cannot get the lock cylinder itself out.  Anyone have any ideas on how this comes out?  It looks like it shoud just
slide or twist out, but I've tried that.
2:  The heater hoses were disconnected on my car when i bought it. Is this i sign that the heater core is shot?  Can I just hook up the hoses again and see if it
works?  If it isn't any good, I am thinking about picking one up at a junk yard.  Are they hard to replace?
3:  The stop lights don't work.  I had a cop behind me yesterday and had to turn on my parking lights so he would think I had brake lights.  (i don't have
registration, current tags, a title, and might have insurance-not sure-still going through legal red tape). I checked the fuse and the bulbs, both are fine.  I think
its the relay down by the brake pedal but I can't figure it out.  There are two down there, and one's casing is sooty inside and i thought it blew, but when I shorted
the wires together no lights but a hard clicking noise coming from around the brake cylinder...wrong relay?
4:  I have the carb butterfly proped open witha piece of door trim.  Is there an easy way to fix this?

Thanks,
Joe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 14:08:24 +0000
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Aftermarket quarter panels (Was Re: Experiences, experiences)

evans1@serv01.net-link.net wrote:
> 
> Steve,
> 
> Where did you buy this aftermarket quarter panel?  I am planning on
> replacing both of mine in the near future....are there any reputable
> aftermarket body panel manufacturers other than N.O.S.?  Any insight from
> anyone is appreciated!

Sherman & Associates, Inc. International Auto Body Supply is where I got
mine for the 73. Just tell me what you're lookin for an I can give you a
phone# and part# and send you on your way. Mine cost me $270. They have
lots of Olds stuff from '66-up.

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 14:10:42 +0000
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: '73-'77 A-Body Headers

RPTW32 wrote:
> 
>  Mike ,
>  Try Hooker - They seem to make one of the better products for
> street application. I don't have the part no's. but any speed shop
> in the area should be able to get for you or Summit / Jegs etc.
> I bought a set for my 69  last year and they fit w/o any problems.
> Would also suggest going the extra mile ($$) and have them ceramic
> coated. I have had this on 2 sets to date and the longevity and durability
> is well worth the $$.  Plus the look great and keep some heat contained.
> 
> Rgds,
> Rob Thomas
> 69 442

I was told by the tech guy at Summit that no headers fit "S" body
Cutlass' ('S', Supreme), only Cutlass'. He said they moved the engine
back for a better ride. My Heddmans didn't fit, we had to modify them.


- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 14:09:44 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 69 442 FOR $300 - 770-482-9219

Super Sports

Talk to kenny 770-482-9219

I think it's $500-$600, but offer $300 and he might take it.
It's going to go one way or the other.  Call soon.

Aaron

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 14:09:47 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Experiences, experiences - wanted left rear 1/4 69 442 conv

In a message dated 98-01-01 08:10:56 EST, you write:

<<  I would have paid the extra for
 a N.O.S. panel. >>

Know where I can find one?

Left rear quarter (maybe right) 69 442 conv

Thanks,
Aaron

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 14:09:41 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Experiences, experiences - brothers/quarters

Chris,

Thanks for posting.  I was planning on ordering rear quarters from Brothers
because Year One is back-ordered.  Now, I'm wary of that!  Anyone else have
experiences?

I may go back to that burned out 69 cutlass convertible and see how those
rear-quarters look.  

Thanks,
Aaron

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 14:18:48 EST
From: TFX FLYER <TFXFLYER@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Back!

most are big blocks, i dont know if any are small block was just kidding with
my message. some people may not know that pontiacs are  big blocks so i said
that so they would know my 400 is a big block. sorry if i caused any trouble
,couldnt resist bragging on my olds . thnx
        tfx

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 14:29:23 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: Lock/Heater/Stop Lights/Carb Questions

Kathy Gerschutz wrote:

> 2:  The heater hoses were disconnected on my car when i bought it. Is this i sign that > the heater core is shot?  Can I just hook up the hoses again and see if it
> works?  If it isn't any good, I am thinking about picking one up at a junk yard.  Are > they hard to replace?

Yeah...  Hook it up, and crank up the heater... My Mustang had a shot
heater core, and I drove it around with the hose still attached... 
Never turned on the defrost or the heater at anytime though...  When I
did, it REALLY smelled like Anti-Freeze and fogged the windows...  It
also made little to no heat.  I'd recommend grabbing a new one..  When I
looked for the core for the Mustang, I saw the highesst price being $40,
new, and lowest used upwards into $30...  

> 4:  I have the carb butterfly proped open witha piece of door trim.  Is there an easy way to fix this?

Hahaha... You take the air cleaner off, and use Advance part #53, The
finger, and you'll need 2 of these.  Take the 2 #53s and make them work
similar to a pair of pliers.  Grip the door trim from the carb, and
pull.  All fixed...  hahaha...  Honestly, I dunno, just couldn't resist

- -- 
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 14:31:02 EST
From: SRB442 <SRB442@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Aftermarket quarter panels (Was Re: Experiences, experiences)

Hi,
    I got my quarter panels from Year One two years ago. These were the best
aftermarket panels I had seen at that time. If you have ever installed a G.M.
panel you would know the difference. They require a lot more time to install
to get good results. The problems I had were at the front where the rocker and
quarter meet and a lot of extra mud work the sail and trunk lid area you have
to trim it good and a lot or trial fitting. The finished product looks good
and are a lot better than the other quarters I have seen. Steve
1967 442
1970 442
1973 442
1985 Delta 88 Royale Brougham

<< Where did you buy this aftermarket quarter panel?  I am planning on 
 replacing both of mine in the near future.. >>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 02:23:20 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Ford man/Was Headlight Knob, B/C bodies

Well, if I could store mine inside I most certainly would.  My other half
is as tall as you, but he has an office and garage to store his STUFF and
extra parts in.  I'm allowed to store my SSII wheels, sway bar and manifold
- - thats all the room thats left in the garage!  My parts wagon is my
storage 'bin'.

Temps have been in the mid to high 70's - unusual for us but we got a dose
of desert winds.  As a result we're workin' on cars while the weather holds.

Take care - happy Olds year!

Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 14:39:33 EST
From: SRB442 <SRB442@aol.com>
Subject: Re: '73-'77 455 A-Body Headers

Hi,
     I have a 73 442 with a 500 H.P. 455  turbo 400 and I got the 1 7/8" in
the chassis headers I believe they are the 3202's. The left side fits mint no
mods the right is a whole different story I had to have one of the tubes moved
for clearance. I had Black Jack cheapys before and they fit but oil changes
are messy you have to loosen the right header to get filter out and you have
to loosen the left for starter clearance. With the Hookers oil changes are
easy and you can remove the starter without loosening headers. If you are
planning on a 3" exhaust it is VERY tight over the rear axle I have clearance
problems I am still working on. Steve
1967 442
1970 442
1973 442
1985 Delta 88 Royale Brougham

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 14:43:13 -0500
From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Head ID question

I need some help on some heads I may buy. I haven't seen them yet but I got numbers.
Supposed to be 455 heads. Guy gave me head casting ID numbers of 396021F and 231788L. Any
clues as to what year and application these came from would be appreciated.
Thanks!

Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) Akron, OH
Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group, Inc.
95 DCM Impala SS  80 Olds 442 W-30
85 S-10 Blazer 4x4  75 Hurst/Olds W-25

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 14:46:58 -0500
From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: new exhaust!

- -----Original Message-----
From: cb006323 <usi.con@consunet.nl>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, January 01, 1998 3:57 AM
Subject: Re: new exhaust!


>Can you plse tell me how you did that, I have problems finding a simular
>exaust for my '76 350 olds.
>Hope you can help me.
>greetings from archy (netherlands)

Summit Racing (www.summitracing.com) sells a Flowmaster dual exhaust kit for the 68-77 GM
A body that should fit your car. I have seen it in their catalog before, but the kit comes
minus the mufflers, so you would have to purchase them.

Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) Akron, OH
Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group, Inc.
95 DCM Impala SS  80 Olds 442 W-30
85 S-10 Blazer 4x4  75 Hurst/Olds W-25

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 16:03:21 -0800
From: Mike Frederick <edison3@cpeq.com>
Subject: Car Show

This came direct to me:

> Classic Auto Beach Festival '98
> April 16th,17th & 18th, 1998
> "Broadway At The Beach", Myrtle Beach, South Carolina
> located on hwy.17 north
> This is an "Open Show" for all makes and models including
> rods, customs, classics, trucks, muscle cars, imports, etc.
> No rain date(held rain or shine) Spectators Free!
> Thousands in cash, prizes, awards and shopping sprees.
> Wine tasting, fashion shows, games, 16th Annual Kite Competition,
> Spectacular Fireworks Show over the water April 18th,
> "A Taste of Broadway"(featuring foods from 10 Broadway restaurants,
> Ocean Blvd. Cruise, over 100 shops,16 restaurants &
> 9 Hot Nightspots all in one location.
> For more info. contact Cynthia at (336) 766-1707 or
> visit the web at (http://www.triadntr.net/carshow)

    66 Toro 
The /\   /\ and Mike     http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/torolist.html


- --
Michael R. Frederick, CEO           Edison3, Incorporated
     Tampa, Florida           Data Translation & Communication
     (813) 210-8649             http://www.cpeq.com/~edison3/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 15:11:15 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: s/n ratio

Man, whoever's mailbox is full better fix it or get the boot from the list,
that last digest was 1400 lines- and about 1/2 of that was notice after notice
that so-n-so's mailbox was full.

Some folks are still neglecting to trim the 4-post-old lines, too. No regard
for the rest of us?
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 07:34:31 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Experiences, experiences

SRB442 wrote:
> 
>     I hope everyone had a nice Holiday. I am restoring a 1970 442 and got
> aftermarket quater panels and were disappointed also. They look good until you
> go to install them they are close but not quite perfect. I replaced the right
> quater and just cut out what I needed to repair the left. They were better
> that nothing but if I had it to do over again I would have paid the extra for

I would have preferred a NOS panel if I could get my hands on one.  In
So. Cal
where I live, none of the junk yards I go to seem to have my year (68)
cars.
There are people buying them out before it would ever hit the yard
floor.

> a N.O.S. panel. This was not a numbers matching 442 and I plan on driving this

Well mine is.  And since it is a 1968 442 SC it is a bit rare (I know
maybe
not as collectible as a HT, but none the less rarer).

> car quite a bit so it was no big deal. They look fine once installed except
> for the amount of plastic you need to finish them.

That to me is unacceptable.  I hope I feel better once he has it fixed.

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 07:40:52 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Aftermarket quarter panels (Was Re: Experiences, experiences)

evans1@serv01.net-link.net wrote:

> Where did you buy this aftermarket quarter panel?  I am planning on
> replacing both of mine in the near future....are there any reputable
> aftermarket body panel manufacturers other than N.O.S.?  Any insight from
> anyone is appreciated!

If you asked me I would say "buyer beware" when it comes to aftermarket
panels.  I think all of the vendors use the same quarter panels.  Mine 
was made in Taiwan.  Egads!  When they tell you that it will maybe needs
a
little trimming, what they are really saying is that it might take major
surgery!  These vendors need to be ashamed of themselves.  I couldn't
sleep
at night knowing that I was selling poor replacements parts that neither
meets the quality or specification of an original part.  Those of us 
restoring our vehicles want nothing less.

I am sorry for getting on my pedastal, however, I am boiling mad!

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 11:26:28 -0800
From: JFOWLER@capecod.net
Subject: Dics Brakes

A friend of mine gave me a set of disc brakes for mt 69 442.  He first
told me they where off a 80's trams am, but now he thinks there from a
72 GTO.  Is there a way of determining what these brakes came off of,
maybe a part #. Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 15:26:38 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: ground thru shifter cable

The culprit is under the hood.  Your engine ground strap is
broken/dirty/not functioning any more.  This means that the current that
normally flows from the alternator ground to the negative battery terminal
via the engine ground strap now flows through your shifter cable, causing
it to overheat.

 On my 72 VC I have 2 ground straps, a thick one from
underneath the alternator (bolts directly to the block) and a small one
from the back of the cylinder head on the pasenger side to the firewall.

My bet is that your main engine ground strap is FUBAR and you need to
replace it before you get another shifter cable.  The good news is that
this is a fairly simple operation, the bad news is that you need another
shifter cable. Erik Nowacki
72 Vista Cruiser (still missing an axle :-(   )
=====================
Alternator current? What about STARTER current?

Yep, the Big Ground Cable is from the starter [motor block actually] back to
the battery. The small one at the rear of the RH head is for juice from the
body-mounted accessories to flow to the engine, thence thru the big cable back
to the battery. Since the accessories typically draw nowhere near the current
of the starter motor, that strap can be much smaller.

If you ground path from the body to the engine OR from engine to battery are
not up to snuff, the electrons will any other handy route- shifter cable,
throttle cable, driveshaft [through the bearings- NOT good!], etc. Make sure
both your body-engine and engine-battery  cables are tightly connected  at eac
end, and there's no significant voltage drop across either when all accessories
are on.

Why not get an axle for that '72 VC & fix it up? Some of have extras.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 15:36:37 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Re: plug change record

Subject: Re: plug change record

Uh, this strikes me as a totally hellacious way to travel a long distance.  I
hope there was a good reason why this Caddy was simply not abandoned roadside
and you found other means to get there.... Todd Morris

> I drove for about 4 days straight the first part of the trip, changing 2 to 4
>?plugs every 2-3 oil stops [80 miles, or every hour or so]. For about 1500
>miles. Plus a couple of full-plug-set swaps.
- ------------------------------

Yeah, it sorta sucked. Then again, it was quite an adventure. I did not know
the thing sucked oil like that until it was too late. It was loaded with lots
of goodies to take back to MI and I was pretty sure that I could sell the car
for the trip cost, being a pristine rustless CA car. That part did work out OK,
the perfect buyer came and offered me more than I hoped to get. Man, was that
engine knocking when it cruised into mom & dad's driveway, though. I was about
ready to strap a 55g. barrel of used oil to the top & just open the valve when
the ticking started... or run a continuous drip feed.
  But, it worked out OK. The caddy was neat to drive, pretty stylish, had more
than one offer to buy it on the way back, but they didn't come thru w/ the
cash. Cruise, power seat, power windows, and a big ol' motor.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 15:39:49 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: www.myclassiccar.com?

So, what ever happened to the Great Olds Shootout on that web page where we all
went & voted for our favorite Olds?
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 16:35:51 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Opinion Survey

Robert A Sanders wrote:
> 
> This is a 324 CID engine with
> @125,000 miles on it.  

I had a '54 with a 324 that had a similar missing problem.  Turned out
to be a cracked head.  Don't know if that would account for the
water/oil or the blow-by.  Seems like a head gasket would be a likely
candidate for the water/oil problem, whick could be related to a cracked
head.  Blow by sounds like rings/hole in piston.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 17:59:03 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: Car Show

Mike Frederick wrote:
> 
> This came direct to me:
> 
> > Classic Auto Beach Festival '98
> > April 16th,17th & 18th, 1998
> > "Broadway At The Beach", Myrtle Beach, South Carolina
> > located on hwy.17 north


This is 2 hours away from me!!!  Anyone else planning on attending?? 

- -- 
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 17:51:56 EST
From: OldsGuyGA <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: answer

hope you get this...

   arron  guy at ss is real firm at $100o on phone for 69 olds....


    owner should still be in town...

              write me jeff.....




    

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 15:21:56 -0800
From: "Joseph Keith McCall" <jkmccall@cablelan.net>
Subject: Engine Question?

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_004E_01BD16C8.FF70E160
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

What engines were available for a '79 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme?  A friend
has one of these at work and maybe getting rid it of soon.

Thanks.



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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
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BEGIN:VCARD
N:McCall;Joseph;Keith
FN:Joseph Keith McCall
ORG:The British Columbia Dragoons;Operations
TITLE:Ops WO
TEL;WORK;VOICE:(250) 763-2698
TEL;HOME;VOICE:(250) 766-2746
TEL;CELL;VOICE:(418) 569-4975
ADR;WORK:;;720 Lawrence Avenue;Kelowna;British Columbia;;Canada
LABEL;WORK;ENCODING=3DQUOTED-PRINTABLE:720 Lawrence =
Avenue=3D0D=3D0AKelowna, British Columbia=3D0D=3D0ACanada
ADR;HOME:;;#23 -8945 Highway 97 N;Kelowna;British Columbia;V4V =
1E8;Canada
LABEL;HOME;ENCODING=3DQUOTED-PRINTABLE:#23 -8945 Highway 97 =
N=3D0D=3D0AKelowna, British Columbia V4V 1E8=3D0D=3D0ACanada
EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:jkmccall@hotmail.com
EMAIL;INTERNET:jkmccall@cablelan.net
END:VCARD

- ------=_NextPart_000_004E_01BD16C8.FF70E160--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 15:48:11 -0800
From: Erik <erikreb@netbridge.net>
Subject: Intake Manifold Update

Hello again,

Well, I was able to get my intake manifold off.  Just had to give it a
couple whacks.  But now I am having trouble puting it back on.  I bought
the valley pan gasket and tried to put it back on and it ended with a
broken gasket and me cleaning up all the silicone.

Is there a trick or something that keeps the gaskets from moving when I
put the manifold on?  Also, I am doing this job outside, and the temp is
probably around 45 degrees.  Will this stop the RTV from getting hard? 
Also, I know you don't have to, but should I remove the distributor so I
can set the manifold down more level?

Thanks everybody,

Erik B.
'72 Olds Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 19:32:02 -0500
From: Jim Hurd <jhurd@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: Re: Lock/Heater/Stop Lights/Carb Questions 

At 02:03 PM 1/1/98 -0500, you wrote:
>I have several questions on my newly aquired (for $50) car.  Any replies
would be appreciated.
>1:  I need a door key made for my 82 cutlass, and am planning on removing
the trunk lock cylinder and having a key made from that at a dealership.  I
removed the
>latch and retaining clip from the trunk lock, but cannot get the lock
cylinder itself out.  Anyone have any ideas on how this comes out?  It looks
like it shoud just
>slide or twist out, but I've tried that.

        There should be a "key code" for your locks somewhere.  For example
on my motorcycle the code is on the underside of the gas cap.  Take that
code to a locksmith and they can grind you a key

>2:  The heater hoses were disconnected on my car when i bought it. Is this
i sign that the heater core is shot?  Can I just hook up the hoses again and
see if it
>works?  If it isn't any good, I am thinking about picking one up at a junk
yard.  Are they hard to replace?

        I replaced my heater core on my (now wrecked) '79 olds cutlass
supreme brhm.  I think the core cost about 25-30 bucks.  You might be better
of getting a new one, as the one you buy might go bad soon too.  As I recall
it wasn't a major pain to replace but you do have to pull alot of the parts
up by the passenger fender, (blower motor, and that large plastic molded
housing that holds the core, and evaporator.    

>3:  The stop lights don't work.  I had a cop behind me yesterday and had to
turn on my parking lights so he would think I had brake lights.  (i don't have
>registration, current tags, a title, and might have insurance-not
sure-still going through legal red tape). I checked the fuse and the bulbs,
both are fine.  I think
>its the relay down by the brake pedal but I can't figure it out.  There are
two down there, and one's casing is sooty inside and i thought it blew, but
when I shorted
>the wires together no lights but a hard clicking noise coming from around
the brake cylinder...wrong relay?


>4:  I have the carb butterfly proped open witha piece of door trim.  Is
there an easy way to fix this?

        We rebuilt my carb about 5 yrs ago, and I readjusted the choke last
month.  Are you holding the throttle plates open or the choke plate?  You
may have to adjust the choke, (black circle on psngr side of carb.)



>Thanks,
>Joe
>




Jim H.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 19:39:50 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: answer

In a message dated 98-01-01 18:06:39 EST, you write:

<<  arron  guy at ss is real firm at $100o on phone for 69 olds.... >>

jeff,

that's strange 'cause the guy at super sport told me his friend had come down
to $900 at the end of november.

hmm.

i don't know what's up.

second appraiser is coming tomorrow to look at my car, I told you, right, the
guy who hit me now says he only tapped me and that my car was already damaged.
why would he go through the trouble of lying?  his insurance co is paying for
it.

we called Budget rental who's car he was driving, and he hadn't reported it to
them!

he's in trouble now :)

the collision stalled both cars, hardly a tap...

i'm going tomorrow to look at a burned out 69 cutlass conv i found before I
was hit

trying to find a good N.O.S. left rear quarter, I think my right is savable
because it's not bent (to my eye), just more to the right and forward of where
it's supposed to be :)

aaron

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 19:52:52 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Intake Manifold Update

- -----Original Message-----
From: Erik <erikreb@netbridge.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, January 01, 1998 6:58 PM
Subject: Intake Manifold Update


>snip>
>Is there a trick or something that keeps the gaskets from moving when
I
>put the manifold on?  Also, I am doing this job outside, and the temp
is
>probably around 45 degrees.

If you use something like Edelbrock "Gasgacinch" (sp??), on the
gasket, (except for water ports), it will harden and hold the gasket
in place. It's actually a type of contact cement.
It was less than 40 degrees when I did mine and I had no trouble with
either the cement or the silicone hardening. I used high temperature
silicone around the water passages and then put about a 1/4" high bead
instead of the rubber end seals. I also ran the bead up about 1/4"
onto the head and gasket to ensure there was no space left that could
leak.
Using the silicone instead of the end seals let the manifold settle in
place easily without having to compress the rubber.
Everything worked great the first time around although I was paranoid
for a couple of weeks that I had leaks that I couldn't see. Everytime
The car left condensation or white smoke, I was convinced that there
was a leak.
It actually worked perfectly except for a coolant leak at the
gooseneck gasket. If yours is chromed, file the chrome off the sealing
surface. It will be more likely to seal. Also don't use silicone on
this gasket. Use the Gasgacinch or some other sealer that doesn't have
silicone in it. The anti-freeze will cause the silicone not to harden.
If you let it harden before adding coolant, it will still be broken
down by the silicone.
Good luck.

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S convertible
OCA# 29770
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 19:59:49 EST
From: W30442CS <W30442CS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: answer

how much of your car was damaged?   did you need a trunk lid?
w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 19:05:57 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Mileage from a 455

I bought a 455 Cutlass new in 1973.  The mileage was poor; as you describe.
Drivability was poor also.  To fix this I changed the cam to a stock '70 442
(not W30), recalibrated the advance on the distributor, & reconfigured the
Q-jet to the 1970 Buick GS Stage 1 specs.  I also added an Edlebrock O4B
dual plane intake & headers.  Neither the Edlebrock nor the headers were of
much real use.  A shift kit for the Turbo 400 went in to.

This changed everything on that Cutlass.  The power improved dramatically,
the driveability was very nice, & the gas mileage went from 8 to 14.  I'm
sure that there are even much better cams today & I would use one of them.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible


>What range of MPG can one expect from driving a 455 power 1974 olds 98.
>I am not a hot rod driver, but I only get about 10 mpg.  Does anyone get
>better mileage?  what can be done to improve the MPG?
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 20:09:43 EST
From: Mikey tvb <Mikeytvb@aol.com>
Subject: Re: new exhaust!

you also might want to try jc whitney.  most of the kits are only 2.25" but
it's all aluminized with mandrill bends.

mikey tvb@aol.com
73 cutlass w/403

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 20:11:21  -0500
From: scott or sharon <jerdan@erols.com>
Subject: Speedvision Road & Track Episode

Hello All,

Just thought that I would mention a great episode of Vintage "Road and Track"
that I saw on Speedvision today.  In this episode, filmed in 1971, they road
tested a 71 W-30 4spd convertable.  They had nothing bad to say about the
car and spoke nothing but praise for Oldsmobile and 442s.  It was great. 
They pushed this car hard with lots of tire smoking going on.  Another
episode I watched later in the day was filmed in 1973 and featured a road
test of a 73 Challenger.  A car I once owned but sold because of poor
performance.  In its place I purchased my first 70 W-30.  But thats another
story.  If you can get speedvision from your cable company check it out!

Scott Jerdan
70 W-30

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1036
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