
oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, January 14 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1056



membership
'57 Olds Parts FS
Soylent Ocean Door Stop
Re: FS: 70 442 convertible
Re: Are these good prices?
Re: 72 Cutlass problems
Home Improvement
Some parts
Re: Sticking/frozen door seals
Rear Valiance
Re: Soylent Ocean Door Stop
Re: 69 non-remote mirrors
Re: engine stutter, and anifreeze smell
Re: A-body frames
temp. guage
Re: Big Car Rear Sway Bar
Re: heads to use
Man trans plug sealant
Re: 68 Mirror prob!
Re: temp. guage
68? Ram Air
bad idle?
Re: A-body frames
86 Salon 4spd shifter.........
replace head gaskets
Re: low oil pressure
ultimate parts car
Re: 72 Cutlass problems
Toro drivetrain
low oil pressure
Re: Bleeding Brakes
Re: Sticking/frozen door seals
Re: temp. guage
Re: Soylent Ocean Door Stop
Re: Spoiler on Cutlass
Re: Big Car Rear Sway Bar
Re: temp. guage
Polyurethane Front End Squeaks
Re: temp. guage

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 21:02:56 EST
From: DEOVIVERE <DEOVIVERE@aol.com>
Subject: membership

sign on

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 22:06:12 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: '57 Olds Parts FS

An acquaintance of mine sold his '57 Olds Holiday coupe last year. Due to 
circumstances beyond his control he wishes to liquidate his parts stash. 
I have not seen these parts. If you are interested, contact George 
Georgianis directly at 902-835-5175. If you're interested in anything 
after you talk with him and agree on a price I can go and look at them 
and give you my non-expert opinion. Here's his list:

- - Front seat
- - Power antenna and switch
- - Complete Autronic Eye with headlamp switch
- - NOS backup lights
- - NOS door rubbers
- - New Super 88 emblems
- - Power Steering assembly
- - Wonderbar radio with foot switch
- - Glass windshield washer jar with lid
- - Vent window felts
- - Super 88 side chrome
- - other misc. small parts

Most of this stuff was bought at the Greensboro Olds Nationals in 1995.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 20:06:57 EST
From: KarlAune <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Soylent Ocean Door Stop

Hey Y'all!

My thanks to many of you including Clive at clindsay@micron.net and many
others whom my poor memory fails to recognize.

No. Soylent Ocean Mist still has not started. For those of you joining late, I
shall review the facts.

Week of New Tears Eve (sp or no - you decide): work Mon and Tue. Gas up on way
home Tues. using 93 octane from a local (formerly Union) 76 station which has
not yet dealt me bad gas. I intended not to drive her until Monday, Jan. 5,
but on Friday I ran a few errands. As I recall, starting and operation were
uneventful. The only odd thing was that as I drove, she wanted to pull to the
left every now and then - as I recall it was 35-40 degrees and fairly windy
(hopefully gusts explain the steering drifts). 5:40am on Jan 5 approximately
50 degrees and has been raining since Saturday. She absolutely will not start.
Drained battery, recharged it while I should have been at work, and tried
again with no results.

Here are the specs:

Sounds: Starter sounds normal. While cranking cylinders occasionally fire;
this is not unusual, often she will miss on at least one cylinder until after
starting. Sometimes enough cylinder firing goes on that it sounds like it is
starting, but when I disengage the starter one cylinder at most fires before
it promptly dies.

Components: battery and starter are OK (it cranks, athough battery was lown
some water when I brought it in for charging). Plugs and wires should be OK
because at least some cylinders fire(Splitfires are approx one year old and I
just cleaned and regapped them, wires are Accell 300+ race wire with lifetime
warranty). Cap and Rotor are 5-6 months old (replaced during a bad gas episode
when I also could not determine the cause). Gas does squirt from the carb jets
when I tug the linkage (old steel gas line replaced with Russel brand braided
hose and inline filter 5 months ago, no appreciable deposits in see-through
filter). Adjusted points dwell from ca. 53 to 30 degrees while cranking on
Sunday, it sounded better but still did not start. 

Engine Analyser: Battery = 12v, checked points resistance and it is OK. Dwell
is now 30 degrees (specification).

To do: It occurred to me to check the coil resistor which is not involved in
starting but is in ignition, hope to check it tonight. When I replace
coil/resistor I will clean the spark plug wires (doubt that will change
anything). On the other hand it was 4 degrees this morning. I am going to take
a sample of gasoline to work tomorrow and check it for water or (heaven
forfend!) sugar with the InfraRed spectraphotometer (unfortunately there is
not one in my toolbox). I want to rule out the sugar possibility before I do
any more cranking. I will purchase a spare cap and rotor to see if there is a
difference in starting performance between new and existing equipment. After
that I will fiddle with the timing as my stretched timing chain has caused me
to set timing at 17 degrees before TDC where the specification is seven and a
half degrees and I did notice on an earlier timing-fiddling expedition that I
had to back off pinging, and then back off farther to ensure better starting.

I have not removed the valve cover to ensure that the camshaft is intact, but
I do not think there is any cause to suspect that here.

And finally no, I have not held hair dryer or heat gun to the distributor.
Maybe I am ignoring the obvious, but I have never had a wet distributor before
and as the interior looked dry, I dismissed the possibility earlier. Besides,
Sat and Sun it was 20 degrees, how could it have been wet?

I think that that is all the pertinent information, I welcome any suggestions.

One last thing - how can you tell if there is sugar in your gasoline.

Thanks again!

Karl Aune and Soylent Ocean Mist
1965 Dynamic 88 Celebrity Sedan
Members OCA, IVOC

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 22:08:01 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: FS: 70 442 convertible

<details of $5K '70 4-4-2 convert snipped>

All I can say is, *WHY* did I spend all of my spare liquid assets on a 
house!!!! :(

Sounds like a screamin' deal....

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 21:12:24 -0500
From: Kevin Hoopingarner <khooping@bright.net>
Subject: Re: Are these good prices?

Matt,

I'm curious about the swapmeet.  I live in Findlay ~50 mi. south of Toledo
and would like to make it up there if it looks as though it may be worth
while.  What type of a swap meet is it and where is it being held?  Is it
for all makes/models?, circle track?,  muscle cars????  Any info would be
appreciated.

Thanks,

Kevin Hoopingarner
'70 Olds 442 W-30
Findlay OH.


Matt Cremean wrote:

> 8.5" 3.73 gears (new)---------$125
> 8.5" GM posi (rebuilt)--------$175
>
> Are these good prices? I'm attending the Toledo Swap Meet this weekend
> and taking my checkbook with me.
>
> I really want Posi, but the gears are not a necessity.
>
> --
> **********************************
> Matt Cremean
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
> CreamerSoft© Software
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
> 1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
> **********************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 19:50:35 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass problems

> The headers probably already had a crack to begin with. I would not
> advise you go with solid mounts as the car would feel entirely
> different. You may be transferring too much into the frame.

Without a doubt, don't go to solid mounts on the street.  They'll work,
but man, vibrations would be brutal, unless you don't care about that.  
You didn't say what kind of cam you were running, other than it's a
Crane.  Cam selection/setup is crucial in how your engine behaves.  I'd
personally try a 3.42 or 3.73 gear and see if that doesn't help on
launch.

I don't think it was a motor mount problem that caused the crack in the
headers.  I'll bet a dime to a donut you have some stresses on the
headers that are coming from the exhaust system (I'm assuming you are
running pipes/mufflers.)  If too much downward force is on the collector
without supporting it, enough downward stress on the header to flange
area could start a crack as you describe.  One possible suggestion is
using a large clamp and flexible hanger at the collector area to help
alleviate this problem.  Then again, you may have bought a defective set
of headers to begin with.  Hard to tell without looking.
> 
> As for the carb, 600 cfm is enough. A typical 350 @100% VE (volumetric
> efficiency) at best uses approx. 550 cfm @5500rpm.

Again, I agree the 600 vac. secondary does wonders on a 350.  The cool
part is, it will use just as much secondary as it needs.  I disagree
somewhat on Fernando's comments that the 750 would flood the engine just
by using it, but he's definitely on the mark about it being too big for
what you need.  Going to a bigger cfm carb, like a 750 or 850 probably
will just give you big air holes.  The carb would work, but you aren't
drawing enough air flow to utilize the carb effectively on the low end,
and it would be real sluggish on the bottom end for sure.  This is
because the air velocity through the big carb at low rpm would be a lot
lower in comparison to the 600 at the same rpm, thus a bog would occur,
and you'd have to adjust the pump shot to make up for this big air hole,
and waste gas in the process.  

To mathematically prove this in simplified form, leaving molecular
weight balance and moles out of this, hopefully we can all agree that
the engine requires a certain amount of airflow at a given rpm and the
venturis are bigger on the 750 than on the 600.  So we'll simplify and
call the airflow "mass flow rate", or m.  m=pAv, where p={air density}
A={carb venturi cross-section area} and v={air velocity}.  Forgive me
for not using the "correct" symbology.

Mass flowrate between both carbs would stay the same for a given rpm,
and we'll assume air density stays constant since we're using "the same
air".  What does this mean?  It means on the big carb, the 750 has a
larger venturi cross-section area, therefore, the velocity through the
carb MUST DECREASE to keep mass flow rate constant for a given rpm.
(Assume we pick the same point on the venturis for our area comparison) 

Practically speaking, think of it as big valves in the heads, and big
intake ports.  Great for top end, but less than considerate on low-end. 
Smaller valves and ports increase velocity at low end, and so would a
small carb.  You have to match your components.  But increase low end
velocity, then you get better response and mixing at low rpms all the
way up the band.  It's a trade off on carb size.  But if you limit the
engine to around 5500-6000 rpm, an 750 is probably too big.  Of course,
if you are screaming at 7-8K rpm, it may be what you need.  But as the
calculations prove, your engine at 5500 rpm doesn't need anything bigger
than the 600. 

Sorry for rambling, tossin in a couple of cents that turned into a
nickel.
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 21:17:42 -0500
From: "Jason K. Adcock" <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Home Improvement

Anyone see Home Improvement this Tuesday evening?  They had a classic car
expert on his show, Tool Time.  The expert showed a classic car video that
showed a '48 Olds coupe!  The license plate said 48 OLDS.

Just seein' if anyone saw it... 
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 21:14:41 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Some parts

PLEASE 
E me direct and
I'll get back to you A.S.A.P

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com

1968
Wheel well chrome                                      $20 ea
Front side markers                                       $15 ea
Rear side markers                                       $15 ea
Hood Hinges                                                $35
442 Air cleaner                                             $75
3 sp. console (standard shift) looks like a 4 sp. console       $275
C casting heads  (complete)                         $175
Ashtray Door                                               $10
Automatic console vgc.                               $75
Convertible top cylinders                              $45 ea.
Convertible top pump                                    $60
Rear defroster switch                                    $25
Motor mount heat shield                               $8
Conv. Top latches                                           $40.pr
Conv. Vent windows with frames good chrome      $60.pr.
Reverse light lens good condition                     $10
Rear defroster Switch                                      $20
Tail lights                                                          $20ea

1969
442 Grills exc.                         $190
AM radio with knob and mounting plate       $40
Cutlass Grills                           $90
SSI's   code JK 14x6 set of 4   $100
Wiper switch                            $40
Radio plate (uncut)                   $20
Rear defroster Switch & wiring             $25
Plastic headlight frames            $75
Dash pad (gold)                        $90
T handle  (that opens hood)      $10
Ashtray Doors                           $10
Convertible top cylinders           $45
Convertible top pump                $60
Hood Hinges                             $35
Rear Sway Bar                          $45
442 Ashtray door with woodgrain Exc.    $15
Motor mount heat shield             $8
Conv. Top latches                      $40.pr
Front Bumper core quality only   $75
1968-69 C Castings 400 or 455 heads
Complete                                $175
Vacuum trunk switch                  $25
Taillight lens and some housings  $15 ea

1970
Tail light lens (Cutlass)            $12 ea
Tail light lens (Supreme)         $15 ea
Nos fender script "Cutlass"      $30 ea
Nos Horn Contact (sport wheel)      $20 ea
Nos 442 emblem sets (both sides, front tooth and trunk lid)   $225 
F85 fender script                     $30 pr.
Rear side marker lights            $15 ea
Rear Sway Bar                             $45
70 442 bumper  core                     $150
Ashtray Doors                                $10
Dash Plaques (Plastic around gauges W/ wood grain)      $20
70-72 Cutlass wagon dash pad  Black (No Vent Holes)   $150
Convertible top cylinder                $45
Hood Hinges                                  $35
Convertible top pump                     $60
Motor mount heat shield                 $8
Conv. Top latches                          $40.pr
Conv. Visors w/mirror pad BUT no mirror  Black           $50.pr.
455 heads E casting                       $150
Convertible Top Switch                  $60
Convertible Top switch Bezel          $25

1971 & 1972
Nos headlight frames(plastic)         $75 pr.
Front bumper directional lens         $10 ea.
Tail light lens                                 $12 ea.
Power bench seat                          $100
Trunk lid script "O-L-D-S-M-O-B-I-L-E"          $30
Dash pad complete with lower plastic  (Black) Vgc.        $125
Dash pad complete with lower plastic	  (Blue)   gc.          $125
Dash pad complete with lower plastic	  (Green) gc.         $125
442 Grills good condition (with 442 emblems)                       $200
Auto Console (Tan)                                                       
$90
Auto Console (Brown)                                                    $90
71-72 Rocker Chrome good/c                                         $60
T handle  (that opens hood)                                            $10
Ashtray Doors                                                              
 $10
Dash Plaques (Wood Grain area around gauges)            $10
71-72 sport mirrors w/brackets                                        $60
70-72 Cutlass wagon dash   pad  Black                           $150
Convertible top cylinders                                                
$45
Convertible top pump                                                     
$60
Hood Hinges                                                                
 $35
Rear Sway Bar                                                              
$45
Rear ¼ panel supreme extensions                                   $15
Motor mount heat shield                                                 $8
Conv. Top latches                                                         
$40.pr
Seat belt shoulder harness,   plastic hangers                   $15.pr.
Conv. Visors w/mirror pad BUT no mirror  Black             $50.pr.
1971 455 Cylinder heads Casting G                                      $150
1972 455 Cylinder heads Casting GA                                    $150


Shipping is extra 
Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
905-357-4454

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 21:36:28 -0500
From: Jim Hurd <jhurd@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: Re: Sticking/frozen door seals

>Probably my fault for washing the cars in the winter, but
>what sort of goop can I put on the door seals that will
>keep them from freezing the doors shut if they're wet?
>--
>Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
>Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
>101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
>Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282
>
>

        Try rubbing a silicone lubricant or WD-40 onto them, this should
keep them from freezing to the pillar along with keeping them from drying
out and cracking.




Jim H.
'87 Salon

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 21:47:29 -0500
From: "Thomas A. Bromfield" <timberline1@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Rear Valiance

64/65 Cutlass rear valiances, I have a few of them in various conditions.
All are straight.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 21:43:53 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Soylent Ocean Door Stop

> One last thing - how can you tell if there is sugar in your gasoline.

Take a small small sample, let it evaporate dry on a clean surface
(glass does great)  If there's crystals or hard crusty film, then
there's something in there.  Not for sure it's sugar though.  If you do
get crystals, put it on your corn flakes and test taste!  :)  Just
kidding.

Now, as far as the starting problem, I'm shotgunning here with some
guesses.  Could it be the condenser (capacitor) on the coil and/or
distributor?  If this craps out, so will your ignition.  This
capacitance is required in the ignition to help with the
discharge...never mind, too lengthy.  If you have some spares laying
around, try them.  

It COULD be that little bugger of a resistor wire to the ignition.  Try
hooking a voltmeter to the coil then turn ignition switch to "on".  You
still should see well over 10 volts if good.  This happened to me on my
71.  Drove me crazy for a week thinking it was the distributor pickup. 
I found the connection at the fuse block wasn't installed correctly at
the factory, and when warm, the connections would separate since they
were barely touching in the first place.

Spark test #1 cylinder with a timing light to roughly verify crank
position vs. cam position if you haven't disturbed the timing setting? 
If timing "jumped" (doubtful though) your car may not start regardless.

Just fishing Karl, for some thoughts.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 21:08:23 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: 69 non-remote mirrors

Greg,

I know that this message is late, but a method that I have used is to use a
punch on the ball in several places (knurling efect) to increase the
friction.  The mirror is taken off and put into a vise.  The mirror head is
moved to the far positions so that the ball can be punched without showing
when the head is in its normal position.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible


>On Sun, 11 Jan 1998, M&D Gillespie wrote:
>
>> Following this thread brings up a question. Both the driver and
>> passenger side chrome mirrors are loose and move out of adjustment
>> everytime a door is closed. How can they be tightened up? Is there an
>> adjustment on the inside, or are they just worn out?
>
>I have the same problem with mine. Last year I had some success with
>working some body caulk into the socket to tighten it up but that was
>only temporary. This year I might try some sort of stickum. They just
>seem to wear and get loose.
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 19:07:14 -0800
From: "Scourge" <dgilligan@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: engine stutter, and anifreeze smell

ya, changed everything about 2 months ago when i had the timing chain
replaced, I'm thinking maybe it's the seal to the water pump, but there's no
leak that i can see, looked in the dip stick too, and no water spots.  I'm
bringing it in Friday, doing a flush on it, i guess we'll just see.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, January 13, 1998 4:30 PM
Subject: Re: engine stutter, and anifreeze smell


>Scourge wrote:
>>
>> I have an 87 olds Calais, V6 102,000 miles, it has started loosing power
at
>> crusing speeds like 60 or 65, it almost sputters after a while everything
is
>> fine, but no matter how long you drive it if you turn it off and on again
it
>> will keep on doing this till you go for a while, the engine does not cut
>> off, but it's like taking your foot of the peddle.  also a new thing just
>> started where i smell anti-freeze in the heat,  any ideas?
>
>It wouldn't surprise me if you have a heater core going...(Greg B. is
>groaning right now).  Have you changed the coolant lately?  Most
>name-brand coolants have corrosion inhibitors in them, but they break
>down after a number of years.  Has your coolant level changed at all
>recently?  Is the passenger side floormat ever damp at all (with A/F)?
>
>If Murphy's law is in effect here, the heater core will finally go VVK
>during a deep-freeze, likely when you're miles from home.  My advice is
>to check this out fairly quickly, because having no heat on the cold
>mornings really sucks...
>
>-----------------------------------------
>S. Dave Ward  (mailto:ward@ptbo.igs.net)
>
>'78 Delta 88 Royale (350 4bbl.)
>'85 Delta 88 R.B.   (307 4bbl.)
>'91 GMC Sierra 4x4  (305 TBI)
>
>(Ennismore, Ontario, CANADA)
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 22:15:35 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Re: A-body frames

Big block and small block convert frames are both boxed, but the BB frames
are also gussetted in the rear.

200 what?

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: Patton <patton@ComCAT.COM>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: A-body frames
> Date: Friday, January 09, 1998 6:32 PM
> 
> Rocket folks,
> 
> 	O.K. jeopardy fans, for 200, does anyone know the difference in the
> big block and small block 67' A-body ragtop frames. More specific, the
> TH400
> equipped GTO's 442's and such.
> 
> 
> 					Mark

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 22:29:48 -0500
From: Jim Hurd <jhurd@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: temp. guage

        
        I have a '87 Cutlass Salon w/ralley guages, that I just bought.  The
coolant was low, so I flushed and refilled the system.  Radiator had some
gunk/sediment in it but nothing major.  I haven't checked the operation of
the thermostat.  My question is the temp. gauge climbs to about 210 degrees
after the car has run for about 5-10 min in 30 degree weather after coming
out of my garage.  How accurate is the temp guage?  The car doesn't overheat
and stays right around 210 on my 25 min drive to work.  Should I check out
my thermostat or is this considered "normal operating" temperature.  TIA




Jim H.
'87 Salon

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 22:38:55 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Re: Big Car Rear Sway Bar

For '65-'67 the boxed lower arms for the A bodies also fit the big cars. 
Not sure about the sway bars.  For sure do *not* use the bar w/o the boxes!
 Would Bryceman measure his bar & let us know?

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: Bryceman <bryceman@442.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Big Car Rear Sway Bar
> Date: Monday, January 12, 1998 8:34 PM
> 
> >>I've seen a lot of rear sway bars for sale on the list. Do any other
full
> >>size Olds owners know what rear sway bar from a 442 would fit my 65
Ninety
> >>Eight?
> 
> My '66 88 Apprehender has factory rear sway bar and boxed lower trailing
> arms. Please note the lower arms are _Boxed_ from the factory just like
on
> a 442. I wouldnt advise using a rear sway bar without the boxed arms.
> Non-factory sway bar cars have hollow lower arms shaped like an inverted
> 'U'. The factory boxed arms have 1/4 inch plate welded on bottom to close
> the 'U' plus ribs that extend up into the cavity of the arm to prevent it
> from crushing under load. I think it would be no problem to have a good
> welding shop make these modifications to your bars. Would be great if you
> could show them a 442 boxed arm to go by.
> 
> PST catalog lists a sway bar for Olds full-size and says it fits 1965-'92
> rear wheel drive. They dont list any boxed arms, however. Their phone and
> address are listed under parts sources area of my web site.
> I am sure I saw boxed arms listed in the Addco catalog for Olds full-size
> but I cant find that catalog to double check. Dont have the phone # handy
> either. Their web site is  http://www.addcoindustries.com/
> Hotchkiss may have a solution also.
> 
> Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Oldsmobiles!
> '66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender
> '65 442 Post Coupe
> '65 Vista Cruiser
> '72 H/O Convertible Pace Car Replica
> Email: bryceman@442.com  URL: www.442.com
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 22:29:33 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Re: heads to use

JMoakBoth- If you're looking for '71 BB heads,  I have a nice pair of Ga
heads complete, good enough to bolt on.

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: Chris Brown Witt <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca; me from myself <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
> Subject: heads to use
> Date: Monday, January 12, 1998 12:02 AM
> 
> From: JMoakBOTH <JMoakBOTH@aol.com>
> Subject: 455 HEADS
> I am rebuilding my 455 for 71 cutlass convertible and I need a set of
heads.
> I would appreciate some suggestions as to what casting number 100, 686,
021 or
> 458 would be best for performance.  Also looking to buy.  I am located in
> north Florida and would perfer something on this side of the world.
> Thanks   Johnny
> Jmoakboth@aol.com
> ================
> first off, Johnny, using the casting # last 3 digits is kind of a Chevy
thing.
> I suppose ot works OK, on '68-up heads, after you scrape the gunk off...
but we
> Olds fans have the Great Advantage of having a HUGE 3/4" tall letter [or,
> number, for small blocks] cast into the lower left corner of the head.
> 
> For instance:
> 100 => full casting # 409100, Letter ID G or Ga, 1971 or '72
respectively.
> 686 => 403686 = E casting, 1970 only.
> 021 => no known Olds head. Now, 821 might be 383821, an "A" head, 1965.
> 458 => again, must be a typo, the 394548 "C" head, '67 thru '69, widely
> regarded to be the greatest head of all time. Well, the best commonly
available
> Olds head, anyhow.
> 
> I actually had to go look up these numbers, I am so used to using the
letter
> ID...
> 
> So, get the "548's" if that's the lingo you thrive on. Unless the others
have
> the elusive 2.072" intake valves, then use them instead.
>   Or, better yet, use the big valves in the C heads...
>  --
> Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing,
MI]
> *the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
>          >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 21:50:57 -0600
From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Subject: Man trans plug sealant

I changed the manual trans gear lube on one of my newer cars for the
first time (a n*ss*n).  Both the fill and drain plug were sealed from
the factory with what appeared to be clear silicone (just a small bead
all the way around).  Anyway, I drained and replaced the oil and torqued
both bolts to spec.  I did not use any sealant, as it was not called for
in the manual.  Well, it is now leaking.  Does anybody know what was
used or what could be used to seal this trans?

TIA

- -Dan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 18:58:49 -0500
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Re: 68 Mirror prob!

>DITTO!!! My allen heads are stripped out & the mirror is hangin! Need more
>input!!!
>
>>How about for 68 442s?  Is there a two outside mirror setup combination
>>that can work?
>>BTW, I tried to get the mirror off of my 68 yesterday and was unable to
>>unscrew the bolt off with an allen wrench.  If I have to drill these
>>pups out, can I get replacement bolts?
>
>Scott Wheeler
>68 442 Conv
>Dallas

I had a stripped screw when I got the car (the mirror was in the trunk).  I
managed to fix it with a loc-tite thread repair kit I got at PEP Boys.  Now
just the head is loose.


Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:00:27 -0500
From: m-hanneman@onu.edu
Subject: Re: temp. guage

>        I have a '87 Cutlass Salon w/ralley guages, that I just bought.  The
>coolant was low, so I flushed and refilled the system.  Radiator had some
>gunk/sediment in it but nothing major....


Well Jim,

My temperature guage on my 85 442 runs at about 210-220 degrees during
normal operating range.  I always wondered about that also.

Matt
85 442  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:06:56 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 68? Ram Air

I am still working on building a Ram-Air system for my cutlass and am
having some problems with the intake ducts. The problem is that there is pretty
much no room for them. I already have the air cleaner assy. I also have the

[[ IS this a '68 car? I accidentally erased the first few lines, and am not in
the mood to trudge back thru 1000 lines of digest just to find that info...]]

aluminum hose that will will be routed through two holes cut in front of the
inner fender skirts. (the same place as the factory did on the '70 442 W-30 I

[[  Please try to obtain the correct rubber/ wire hose, not AL or white plastic
dryer duct! The '70 W30 used scoops molded into the hood... no under-bumper
stuffs, only '68-9 got *under* bumper scoops. ]]

th ink?) The problem is that as far as I can tell the W-30 machine had a
modified bracket to hold the bottom of the bumper. In mine, there is no room
for any type of intake scoop. You will have to take my word for it, that my

[[ The '68-9's need a bottom-fender bracket w/ no rubber at the bottom, to allow
the metal part to clear the scoop. Most if not all '68's had this style, while
the std-issue '69's had the rubber betweeen fender and brace which took room
away from the scoop opening.]]

brackets are in the way, and I don't want to mess with them (as far as making
my own, they are 3/4" dia. solid bars, flat on one end) I have come up with a

[[ Not solid, just tubing, easy to modify if need be. ]]

couple of scoop designs to clear the brackets, but to make them efficient, they
are completely visable. I don't want them to look out of place. I realize that
the ram air helps by feeding cooler, ouside air. BUT, is it important that it
be "forced" in? I have a few ideas for a scoop that would scavange some air
from under the bumper, but would not be a direct flow into the ducts.

[[ The Ram Air effect is small, but not negligible. You will like it. I did
some crude homemade scoops by molding f'glass over foam that I shaped- it
worked out OK, if unsightly compared to factory units.
.
Do it right the first time! ]]
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:08:55 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: bad idle?

   My next move will be to swap the old cast-iron intake back on since
I've never run this intake on a motor before and it was a used intake.
I did put a small bead of RVT around each port, but there's nothing to
say it doesn't have a internal leak.
HELP! - --> Bob Valentine
==============

If you used RTV on the intake ports, I think we found your problem.

Remove the intake, ck carefully for cracks, reinstall with the correct gaskets
& goos. Tried adjusting the carb??
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:09:08 EST
From: RCKTPWR <RCKTPWR@aol.com>
Subject: Re: A-body frames

In a message dated 1/13/98 10:31:38 PM Eastern Standard Time, wmachine@en.com
writes:

<< Big block and small block convert frames are both boxed, but the BB frames
 are also gussetted in the rear.
  >>
HUH??  I have a BB olds 442 conv, and a SB 67 hard top.  Where is this section
located, now Im curious. Thanks 
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:16:16 EST
From: RCKTPWR <RCKTPWR@aol.com>
Subject: 86 Salon 4spd shifter.........

Ok folks, I finally got the 4spd auto in my 86 Salon. 1st of all, its a direct
bolt in. No mods at all underneath. Orig trans was the 3 spd. On the shifter
linkage, theres a plastic sleeve, and its broken, of course.  Since I now need
another shifter, I might as well get a nice aftermarket unit.  Any suggestions
from the Olds camp??
thanx...............
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:19:31 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: replace head gaskets

both head gaskets. I have some mechanical skill but lack experience

[[ Sounds like that'll change soon enough! ]]

        (2) I know I must drain the coolant but should I drain the oil
as well before putting the gaskets in ?

[[ It's always a good idea- some coolant will drain into the oil unless, and
maybe even if, you drain the BLOCK with those 9/16" wrench size plugs on the
side of the block... so, a fresh batch of oil is not a bad idea. After head
job, open oil drain, pour a qt of kerosene down to flush, then re-plug and fill
as usual. ]]

        (3) when removing the head do I have to loosen or remove the
rocker to releive pressure on the push rods or do I just un bolt the
head.

[[ Remove the rockers by loosening them evenly per pair. Say, 1/2 turn each
screw until the one is loose, then slacken it totally and then loosen the
other. Set them aside in pairs, in order, so they can go right back where they
came from. Then remove the p'rods, again keeping track of upper end and where
they were from. Paint pen works magic here! ]]

        (4) When I put the head back into place do I have to adjust the
rocker arms at all... (this is my biggest question )..
- - -Bob @  controlz@bellatlantic.net

[[ Been answered already.... no, should be taken care of in the lifters. You'd
be wise to check each rocker bolt as it's installed, checking for 1/2 to 2
turns of the bolt from when all slack is just taken up to final position. BUT,
this means each cylinder must be on the cam's base circle at tightening time-
so you need to go in firing order- turning the crank 90' each time. More
hassle, but I think worth it for peace of mind later or catching trouble
now. ]]
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 22:19:17 -0600
From: senator@itis.com (Robert F. Newbegin Jr.)
Subject: Re: low oil pressure

<snip (people telling their oil pressures)>

I have a '78 Cutlass Supreme with a 350 from '68 - '72 (see earlier posts
titled "Bob's ID number" or something like that).  I on my Sunpro oil
pressure gauge, I usally run about 50-60 psi at cold idle, 30-40 psi
regular driving, 20-30 psi warm idle at stop signs, and 50-70 psi on the
highway (I don't always pay close attention to it and sometimes it is
slightly different than what I thought it was).
Of course, this is my new Sunpro gauge.  I put it in about two weeks ago.
I was  replacing my upper radiator hose, thermostat, and thermostat housing
(leaks, corrosion, unreliability, etc.).  I had been planning on putting in
a 3-gauge set (water temp, oil pressure, and ammeter), and had it in my
garage.  I hadn't planned on putting it in for a few days, though.  Anyhow,
after repairing my coolant system, I closed the hood (bad idea), sat down
in the driver's side seat and started up my engine to see if I could get
the coolant to circulate, etc. before driving anywhere.  I didn't pay much
attention to the old oil pressure gauge, it hadn't been working very well
(second bad idea).  I sat and waited, and I heard this odd sound.  It
sounded like something was hitting a belt, so I popped up the hood, and
there, coming out of my engine, was a geyser of oil.  Apparently,  I bumped
into my oil pressure sending gauge or the old, brittle tube coming off of
it (and going to my old gauge.)It soaked my engine compartment, my garage,
and me.  I lost 3 quarts on my driveway.

I guess the moral of this story is to check all your connections and stuff
before starting the engine.   :¬)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:22:07 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: ultimate parts car

> Finally got the url for the ultimate parts car... check it out, find a

Looks like a coffee table in progress to me.  Don't laugh but I've
thought about trying to redo one or two that wasn't much better than
this.  Wonder why they left the front wheels on.  BIG :)
Later Chris....
================
Well, *I* put the front wheels on, to drag it home. This is the one where the
wheels would not turn, so we DRAGGED it about 1.5 miles until we wore thru the
tires... then the wheels... and into the brake drums. Then ran out of torch
fuel removing the drums from the hubs... and finished the job with a chisel and
hammer. Heh.

Oh, and those ARE bullet holes you see there. Lots of 'em, too.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:19:04 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass problems

>My 72 Cutlass has hooker comp headers and they are about 1 1/2 yrs old. The
 [snip]
>an engine mount and the twisting force of the engine cause a stress fracture
 [snip]
>advised me to use solid mounts vice the rubber mounts normaly used.  

I don't think it would solve the problem; there's a lot more play in your
exhaust system (unless, say, you welded it *directly* to the frame...) than
in your engine mounts, especially if they're new. And you'd have to have a
pretty radical 350 to be tearing out motor mounts.

>My second question is about the carb.  At the present time the car has a
>holley 600 cfm double pumper w/holley alum intake, crane cam, double roller
>timing chain, HEI (w/adv kit) MSD 6al ignition, headers w/flowmasters, elec
>fuel pump, elec fans, and the car is a 350 cid .030 over w/a 4 spd tranny 3:23
>posi.  I hope all this details help to answer this simple question, IS THIS
>CARB TOO SMALL??? I'm being told that what I need is a 750 cfm double pumper.
>Is this true or are they just trying to take my money at the performance
>shop?? At the present time I'm getting around 14.79 et's at the strip. Is this
>about right?

You left out some key details:

* Which Crane cam?
* Which Holley intake?
* What compression are you running? i.e. what pistons are in there? Is it
the original '72 block, pistons and heads?
* What heads do you have, what valves are they using, and have you done any
porting?
* What rpm do you launch at?
* What diameter tire do you use?
* Is wheelspin a problem? What compound tires are you using?
* What options does the car have, or have you lightened it at all (what does
it weigh?).

With the 4-speed combination, you could hope for better performance by
moving the rpm range of the engine up into the 6500 rpm range (assuming your
bottom-end is properly prepared; what mods have you made for longevity?),
port matching the intake and exhaust ports to the manifolds, installing
larger (2.07" intake/1.62" exhaust) valves, semi-hot cam, paired with an
honest 10.5:1 compression (W-31 pistons and perhaps milled heads) and
hooking it up with some short sticky tires, you might be able to lop a
second off those 1/4 mile times.

Then you might feel the need for a 750cfm double-pumper; don't think it
would do you much good unless you've got some specs like the above.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:25:57 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Toro drivetrain

I'm interested in trying this and would appreciate
any info that anyone could come up with about this project.
Duane Morris
- ------------------------------
There was an article in JWO a while back where a guy did this to his Vista
wagon. I knew a guy locally, John Pohl, who made a dune buggy with a Toro
drivetrain in the rear. Wheelie city! Find him by phone book search? Near
Lansing, MI no doubt. Then, there's the mid-engine '78 or so Cutlass that Bill
Porterfield made back in '78 or so.  And, many motor homes have Toro
drivetrains.

It's been done. Trickiest part is the torsion bars.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:19:07 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: low oil pressure

>I have a 70 olds 350 that has been rebuilt. we replaced the oil pump
>with a stock trw pump, at idle in drive with the car fully warmed up at
>600 rpms im getting only 15 pounds of oil pressure, in drive at 850 rpms
>im getting about 18 pounds of oil pressure on the highway iget about 40
>psi.
>
>My question is the oil pressure to low ?

No, those sound well-within the factory specified minimums for a stock-type
oil pump.

>what should the stock oil pressure be?

The factory specs for a 1970 350 with the stock-type pump are as follows:

At Slow Idle:   7 PSI MINIMUM
1500-3000rpm:  35 PSI MINIMUM

(1970 Oldsmobile Chassis Manual, p. 6B-4, Fig. 6B-101A)

>i do not want to blow up this motor, Doug Bennitt

Unless you are putting loads on your engine beyond what the factory designed
it for (nitrous, heavy towing, extended high-rpm use), I wouldn't imagine
that you have anything to worry about. 

Of course, more oil pressure would always be *nice*, but in your case, it
doesn't sound like its necessary; cars that the factory built with engines
that had similar oil pressure specifications to the ones you listed ended up
driving for 100,000-200,000 miles without blowing up the motor.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:19:01 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Bleeding Brakes

>The above is correct but if you installed a master cylinder you should do what
>they call a bench bleed first. Put the master in place dont connect the 
 [snip]
>all the air out of the master first. I also read they like you to jack the
>rear of the car so the master cylinder is level, to prevent trapped air. 

I like to do this before I install the master cylinder in the car, to avoid
trapping air bubbles in the MC bore. I lightly clamp mine in a bench vise,
run the hoses back into the resevoir, and slowly push in on the piston with
a 6" long 1/2"-drive extension. You can see the air bubbles down in the
bore; sometimes you have to "pulse" the piston to work them free. Be
patient; they'll all eventually come out of there... :)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:19:10 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Sticking/frozen door seals

>door gaskets are sticking to the opposite pillar in some
 [snip]
>what sort of goop can I put on the door seals that will
>keep them from freezing the doors shut if they're wet?

I've had good luck with silicone spray lubricant; spray some on a cloth, and
wipe down the seals. You don't want them soaked, just so they start to look
"wet".
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 22:27:20 -0600
From: senator@itis.com (Robert F. Newbegin Jr.)
Subject: Re: temp. guage

>>        I have a '87 Cutlass Salon w/ralley guages, that I just bought.  The
>>coolant was low, so I flushed and refilled the system.  Radiator had some
>>gunk/sediment in it but nothing major....
>
>Well Jim,
>
>My temperature guage on my 85 442 runs at about 210-220 degrees during
>normal operating range.  I always wondered about that also.
>
>Matt
>85 442


Well, I have a '78 Cutlass with a 350 (from between '68-'72). My temp.
usually never goes over 190 deg. F. under any driving conditions.  Of
course, when I looked at my thermometer this morning it said -15 deg. F.
Most containers of coolant/AF have a little chart on the back that tells
about freezing/boiling point in relation to water/coolant mixture.  I don't
know of any other ways to check the temp. of your coolant, though.

Bob '78 Cutlass    (a very cool car.  get it?  hahaha)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:36:26 EST
From: CCRR12 <CCRR12@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Soylent Ocean Door Stop

Karl,

We all can empathize with your situation, because we have all been there or
are on our way. At least your car is at home and not stuck someplace. 
Several years ago a friend called me with similar problems with his 70 Cuda. I
went over and we messed with it all day, checking everything. It all started
with a low battery on a cold day. Battery was recharged and tested. Got gas,
timing light lit up,
everthing checked OK. Finally his next door neighbor came out to see what our
problem was. We told him the whole story. He said, "Put a new battery in it".
I said "No Way, it tests fine!" and we were getting spark. He told us that the
battery was probably just strong enough to turn over the engine but too weak
to supply adequate power for the ignition. Whatever, we were desperate. Robbed
the battery from my Olds, stuck it in the Cuda. The Mopar fired right up. Now
I can't explain the technical reasons for it working or not, but I am sure
someone on this list will. All I know is we put a new battery in his car and
he never had the problem again. 

Good Luck,
Randy in Okla
57 88 J/2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:53:57 -0500
From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: Spoiler on Cutlass

>>
>> Been there done that.  A few of us have already, actually.  An early
>> 80's Firebird wing works quite well there.  A little bit off, but close
>
>Check out Brandon Schmich's 1986 Cutlass Salon, viewable at www.442.com

Also check out my 80 442 at www.442.com/labay.html I have a wing on there that looks to be
an exact replica of the 83-84 H/O wings, even with the tips wanting to fall off :-) The
fit is perfect. I am not sure if this is a true H/O wing as it came with the car when I
bought it.


Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) Akron, OH
Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group, Inc.
95 DCM Impala SS  80 Olds 442 W-30
85 S-10 Blazer 4x4  75 Hurst/Olds W-25

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 20:52:55 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Big Car Rear Sway Bar

A reminder on this subject - my big block powered parts Vista Cruiser came
with factory boxed control arms in the rear.  I'll be bolting on a sway bar
off a '70 LS-6 Chevelle.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 00:03:47 -0500
From: "Jason K. Adcock" <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: temp. guage

m-hanneman@onu.edu wrote:
>
> My temperature guage on my 85 442 runs at about 210-220 degrees during
> normal operating range.  I always wondered about that also.

My 84 307 runs about 210 all the time.  With the air conditioning on, it'll
creep up to 220, but usually fall down to 215 in a matter of a minute or
so.  I thought this was too high, and changed the EGR valve in hopes of
lowering the overall temperature, but it seems to run the same regardless. 
Actually, the temp is a little higher lately.  I figure that the shorter
tires are the cause, with RPM's a little higher on the road.  With the air
off, doing about 67 or 68 MPH (2400 RPM), the engine now runs about 217 or
218.  I hope it isn't too bad in the summer with the extra load of the A/C.

An aside: I need to better seal my EGR valve gasket.  Is RTV good to use? 
Is this the same as the 'high-temp silicone' stuff Advance Auto, etc.
sells?  One of my friends here (who is ASE certified and works at
Super-Trak) says that RTV Blue (or Clear) is the stuff to use.  Is he
correct?  Thanks.
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 01:03:33 -0500
From: Dan Burke <dburke@magicnet.net>
Subject: Polyurethane Front End Squeaks

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BD2088.3DF43EA0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

In regard to the squeaky front end questions, I had a horrendously loud =
squeak develop in the front end of my Cutlass.  This developed about a =
year after replacing all bushings with polyurethane.  Rocking the car =
would produce the squeak.  After numerous attempts to locate the sound I =
finally doused each bushing in turn with WD-40.  The squeak turned out =
to be the drivers side bottom rear (oval) bushing.  That was 3 months =
ago that I hosed it with WD-40 and the squeak has not come back yet.

Dan Burke			70 cultass conv
Orlando, FL
dburke@magicnet.net


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- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BD2088.3DF43EA0--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 00:12:56 -0600
From: dnewman@wcbi.com (Doug Newman)
Subject: Re: temp. guage

Jason quoted Matt:

>> My temperature guage on my 85 442 runs at about 210-220 degrees during
>> normal operating range.  I always wondered about that also.

Then Jason wrote:

>My 84 307 runs about 210 all the time.  With the air conditioning on, it'll
>creep up to 220, but usually fall down to 215 in a matter of a minute or
>so. 

<snip>

Jason, my '87 307 always runs between 210-220, also.  Same reading as yours
with the A/C going.  I always thought this was high, but I guess I'm so used
to my truck never getting above 170.  (I get the 307 flushed periodically,
also.)  These posts make me feel a lot better about the higher operating
temp of the Olds.  It hasn't climbed into the red yet, so I suppose 210 is
okay...  

Doug Newman
Columbus, MS
1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html
    

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1056
*********************************

