
oldsmobile-digest       Monday, January 5 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1042



Re: SCXes and stuff
Killer SSIII wheels for sale!
unsubscribe
RE: Anit-Theft on '73-'77 Cutlass??
Re: Latest progress report on the SX
Engine replacement
Re: Anit-Theft on '73-'77 Cutlass??
Re: Hosed
Re: Engine replacement
Re: Latest progress report on the SX
Brake light on
Re: Engine replacement
Re: Engine replacement
Re: Non-performance W-options
RE: Latest progress report on the SX
Re: Web pages...
Re: 350 Nodular crank
Engine Woes - Advice *PLEASE*
Re: Brake light on
Repair of Rochester inlet threads
Re: Engine Woes - Advice *PLEASE*
Re: Hosed
Re: Brake light on
Re: 1970 W-32?
Re: 1970 W-32? (and other Q's too)
Re: 1965 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Wierd Occurance...
Internally regulated alternator
#1 Grand Champion "My Classic Car Contest"
A final word on Brother's service
I'm Back on the List
re:Non-performance W-options
Re: #1 Grand Champion "My Classic Car Contest"
Dead horse.  Quarter panel debacle.
Re: Rear Side Markers
Re: Dead horse.  Quarter panel debacle.
Re: Dead horse.  Quarter panel debacle.
December/January JWOs
Diggin Thru the Vaults
Re: Rear Side Markers
Clarification on L34 and L35 engines
Re: 425 pistons into 400 'E' block?
engines
'66 Post Coupe parts car ?
cc'ing with plate
Re: 1965 Oldsmobile Cutlass

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 10:07:23 -0500
From: "Mike Coccagna" <mike.coccagna@envirosense.com>
Subject: Re: SCXes and stuff

Joe:

Have you experienced any coolant loss?  That's probably one of the biggest
signs you have a problem with the head gasket.  I get a lot of moisture from
the exhaust on my '93 and it uses enough oil that if I use 4 quarts when I
change the oil (Mobil 1) the "Low Oil" light will come on after 1500 miles
or so.  It doesn't leak any coolant, so I'm waiting before going any
further.

I've seen the foam in the oil in the winter after long drives on my 442.  I
replaced the head gasket 40k miles later.  Probably a blockage in the
air/oil separator system if anything.  I pulled the hoses on mine a year
ago, cleaned them, and re-installed.  Didn't see any foam last winter.....

Later-
Mike
'91 W40+ 442
'93 W41 SCX


- -----Original Message-----
From: marranca@mhv.net <marranca@mhv.net>
To: W-MACHINES <W-MACHINES@prodigy.net>
Date: Saturday, January 03, 1998 6:10 PM
Subject: SCXes and stuff


Hi everyone,

I don't get to check this email account that often, but its great to read
through the comments. I am considering modifications to my SCX, and its
great to read about your experiences.

One thing I was curious about is the head gasket situation... My '92 SCX
has 46K on it and noticeable moisture from the exhaust... I haven't
noticed any performance loss, but I too sometimes find quite a bit of
foam on the dipstick. My Quad also burns some oil (Mobil
1) ocassionally... It will be fine for 2000 miles, then all of a sudden
it will burn half a quart over 20 miles or so... Have any of you seen
this before? Could it be the oil/air separator?

Oh, by the way... The address <abjt@maristb.marist.edu> is also me... you
can drop it from the list, as I've been recieving two copies of all the
emails... Thanks!
..joe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 09:03:15 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Killer SSIII wheels for sale!

I have a buddy here in Dallas that has a set of SSIII from a later model
Supreme/HO professionally widened & rechromed with MONSTER MEATS!!!

He has these on his 68 442 Conv drag beast!

Two 15x7standard backspacing with BFgoodrich euro TA 245/50-15s
Two 15x10 with a 5.5"  backspacing  BF Goodrich TA 295/50-15s
Chrome is perfect, tire tread is perfect,  guess less than 1000 miles.I
need to sell the entire package cannot breakup, asking $900.00

Kinda steep but for us Olds purists a nice addition!

Let me know if you are interested and I'll pass on the word!

Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 10:01:42 EST
From: FSN6998 <FSN6998@aol.com>
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe oldsmobile-digest

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 10:27:39 -0500
From: tgstoner@umich.edu
Subject: RE: Anit-Theft on '73-'77 Cutlass??

On Sun, 04 Jan 1998 Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com> wrote:
> I was just perusing through the Brothers' online catalogue when I came
> across a very interesting statement - for door jamb switches it has a
> listing for with and without "Anti-Theft".  What's that all about??

***********************
I know that an anti-theft system was offered on some, if not all, of the
1973 thru 1975 Hurst/Oldsmobiles.  Perhaps this explains the listing in
Brother's WEB pages.

Tom Stoner
Oldsmobile Club of America #3943
Ann Arbor, MI
tgstoner@umich.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 10:43:53 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Latest progress report on the SX

>> Anyway, I was glad I changed that 27-year old fluid; it only took about a
 [snip]
>
>Unless you've done this before...  You've now found out something that
>smells worse than fresh baby after it's had prunes...  hahaha.

heh... It's not the first time I opened up a rear (of a car or a baby; I've
got a 2 month old as well... :), and was expecting the smell. I do have to
say, however, that the fluid that came out wasn't as bad as, say, the fluid
from a '76 10-bolt that I opened up this fall; now that was some STINK!
Since I pulled it for the posi case, I get to "enjoy" that smell every time
I go down into my workshop, where I've stored the bucket of parts... :P

But yes, my garage does now smell as bad as a diaper pail... Thanks for the
sympathy! ;
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 10:58:53 EST
From: OldsCut442 <OldsCut442@aol.com>
Subject: Engine replacement

Okay Its time to start thinking about my spring project.
I have obtained a 1984 olds cutlass. This car has the buick 231 motor in it.
So far by looking at the tranny it appears to be 350 . I was told
if the tranny has a 4 bolt output shaft it is a TH350. Is this true 
or not?
The real reason im sending this email. I would like to remove the 231. 
In its place I would like to go with the Olds 350 . But I have heard stories 
that the olds engine will be a pain to get in. Firewall, mount problems and
not 
enough room for the air cleaner to sit on the carb.
Everyone says put a bowtie in it. I would like to stay away from that option.
Im planning on running this motor with a computer. No emission tests in
Indiana.

Any information or sources for help would be greatly aprreciaited.

Feel free to email me at oldscut442@aol.com

Bob 
1977 Olds 442
1988 Olds Ninety eight
1984 Olds cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 11:01:59 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: Anit-Theft on '73-'77 Cutlass??

> I know that an anti-theft system was offered on some, if not all, of the
> 1973 thru 1975 Hurst/Oldsmobiles.  Perhaps this explains the listing in
> Brother's WEB pages.

And just how did this system stack up to the systems in use today?  Was it a
pretty "crude" setup?  What was included in this anti-theft system?  And
would something like that either be good for use in todays times or could
the door switches be used with a new alarm system?
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 10:19:05 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: Re: Hosed

> On Tuesday you might recall that the upper rad hose 
> blew off the Delta. I put it back on very carefully, 
> tightened it down, and refilled the coolant. Today 
> I was waiting in line at a gas station car wash, had 
> been there maybe 15 minutes with the motor idling, 
> and the thing blew off again!

Some theories, ranging below from fully-baked to only
half...

o  The worm-drive hose clamp you used is too big, and
   when you "tightened" it, the resistance you felt was
   because it had actually run out of thread slots, and
   was not tightened properly against the hose.

o  You somehow managed to tighten the clamp too far up
   the hose, so it slipped off the end of the radiator
   outlet. Tightening the clamp on _top_ of the outlet 
   ridge instead of against it (between the ridge and 
   the base of the outlet neck) will allow the hose to 
   blow off as soon as it works itself free of the ridge.

o  You have weak coolant turning to steam overpressure.

o  You have old spongy hoses that squirm loose under the
   clamps. Even when new, you have to re-tighten the hose
   clamps after several driving sessions, as the hoses 
   soften and shift under high temperatures.
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 98 11:34:42 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Engine replacement

Bob wrote:

Okay Its time to start thinking about my spring project.
I have obtained a 1984 olds cutlass....I would like to remove the 231. 
In its place I would like to go with the Olds 350 . But I have heard stories 
that the olds engine will be a pain to get in. Firewall, mount problems and 
not enough room for the air cleaner to sit on the carb....Everyone says put a 
bowtie in it.

     Bob,
     
     "Everyone" would be wrong.  The Olds 307 was a factory option in your 
     car, and all Olds small blocks (260, 307, 330, 350, and 403) are 
     externally identical.  Also, do not confuse the Olds 307 of the '80s with 
     the Chevy 307 from the '60s.  These are two different motors, with the 
     Olds 307 being a "real" built-by-Oldsmobile motor (the Chevy 305 was also 
     a factory option in the G-body cars).  Simply get the correct frame 
     mounts for the 307 and any small block Olds will bolt in.  Even the 
     transmission bolt pattern is the same (note that this would _not_ be the 
     case with a Chevy motor, which would require an adapter or a different 
     trans).
     
     When you get your Olds motor, make sure you get all the accessory 
     brackets as well.  These brackets will be different from those on the V6, 
     however your accessories will bolt up to the Olds brackets.  You will 
     also need the Olds starter, as the Buick unit is different.  And of 
     course, a larger radiator will be required in addition to the exhaust 
     pipes for a 307 (unless you plan to run a custom setup - there are 
     vendors who sell 2 1/2" and 3" diameter exhaust systems for G-body cars).

 I would like to stay away from that option.

     Congrats on your excellent taste and judgment.

 Im planning on running this motor with a computer. No emission tests in 
Indiana.

     Did you mean _with_ or _without_?  Either will work, however several on 
     this list have successfully run 350s and even 403s with the original 
     computer fully functional.
     
Any information or sources for help would be greatly aprreciaited.

     Good luck.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30
     

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 08:37:33 PST
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Latest progress report on the SX

Take a pair of channel-locks and place them around the dust cap. Lightly 
compress the pliers so that the part of the cap that fits into the rotor 
is slightly egg-shaped. Tap it on and it should stay.

- -good luck!

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S

>
>Now I'm ready for some highway driving, just as soon as I can figure 
out how
>to keep my right-side dust cap from popping off the front spindle... :(
>_______________________________________________________
>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 08:51:56 -0800
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Brake light on

I just got a rebuilt TH-350 tranny installed in the '78 Beater, the TH-200 had
problems since the day I got it (previous owner swore it was rebuilt a year
ago though, and he had no reason to lie to me since I'd already given him the
cash at that point) and last week my gear indicator went something like
P-R-N-N-N-1 :-)

Now that I can get the power to the ground, I've found that the car can
actually get out of it's own way (but not much more than that).  This weekend
while out running around, the BRAKE light came on.  Shut car off and turn back
on, brake light goes off.  Comes back on in a few minutes.  Brakes work fine.
Not dragging, stops good, doesn't pull to one side or the other.  Locked it up
in the snow to verify that all four wheels locked up too.  Brake fluid is
full, if a bit dirty.  Maybe I should bleed them out of general principles.

Any suggestions as to why this light is on?  I know it's main purpose is to
let you know the e-brake is on, but isn't it also supposed to indicate a brake
system problem like low fluid (it does on our truck)?  The ratcheting device
in my e-brake is broken (pedal won't stay down) so I don't use it.  Suppose
the electrical switch that indicates e-brake on could be broken?  Disconnect
it?

On a _posi_tive note, while the '78 appears to have salt-flat gears, it also
looks like I have posi!  Stuck one wheel on compacted snow, another on wet
pavement and no spin!  Yippie!

Then again, I also just discovered that my fan clutch is toast, and a heater
hose is leaking.  It's just one thing after another on this car.  I'm
beginning to feel like Greg with his '78 Delta :-)

- --
Tom Lentz, tlentz@ior.com                        '84 Hurst/Olds #2118
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz                       '78 Cutlass Supreme
Network Admin, CPM Corp, Spokane, WA.            '78 Chev 1/2ton (Olds 350)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 12:58:00 EST
From: BIG JERMES <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Engine replacement

In a message dated 98-01-05 11:10:29 EST, you write:

<< The real reason im sending this email. I would like to remove the 231. 
 In its place I would like to go with the Olds 350 . But I have heard stories 
 that the olds engine will be a pain to get in. Firewall, mount problems and
 not 
 enough room for the air cleaner to sit on the carb.
 Everyone says put a bowtie in it. I would like to stay away from that option.
 Im planning on running this motor with a computer. No emission tests in
 Indiana. >>

well, i just finished putting a 350 olds engine in my '78 cutlass which came
with a 260 v8..  i dont thing there is enough of a difference between you car
and mine so im pretty sure it can be done.  im not sure about the differences
between the v6 and v8 mounts, but i would think you could just pop some v8
mounts in there. as for the air cleaner not fitting, i never tried my old
single snorkel on it, but i have a open element edelbrock 14" air cleaner and
it looks great.  it came with a 3" tall element on it and i think i can get a
4" one in there.im running an edelbrock performer intake also.  im not sure if
there is a height difference between the edelbrock and the factory intake, but
either will work.  as for the computer, if you want to use it, youll need the
carb and distributor off of a late model cutlass with a 307 or some other car
with a computer 4bbl and distributor.but if it doesnt run good enough with the
computer (which could even be different since it is a 3.8l buick) id just get
a regular carb and hei distributor and forget the computer since you dont have
to worry about emissions.  hope this helps some!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 13:39:57 EST
From: CRuper1 <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Engine replacement

In a message dated 98-01-05 11:29:57 EST, you write:

<< 
  Im planning on running this motor with a computer. No emission tests in 
 Indiana.
 
      Did you mean _with_ or _without_?  Either will work, however several on 
      this list have successfully run 350s and even 403s with the original 
      computer fully functional.
      
 Any information or sources for help would be greatly aprreciaited.
 
      Good luck.
      
      Joe Padavano >>

My thoughts on this are this:
1) I'm not sure if you CAN use the computer without changing the black box
that goes with it.  I'm guessing that the 6 cyl. will have some different set-
up than the 8, but I may be wrong.
2) If you do try the computer, find an 8 cyl. from the SAME year car, and use
that, for ease of hookup.
3) If you "drop" the computer, get a distributor from an older (like '77, or
so) car that does not have any computer hookups.
4) You'll be really happy by finding and >OLDS< motor (either a 350, 403, 425,
or 455), and installing that in there.  They will all fit fine, although the
425/455 will be "tighter" than the 350/403's.  I changed my '81 Cultass (which
had a 260, 8 cyl. in it ) to a 350, and now it's getting a 455 put into it.
There are several other list members who have done the same, and are very
happy with the results.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 14:16:07 EST
From: W30442CS <W30442CS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Non-performance W-options

bob, was decals and stripe kits the only diff. between the rallye and a
regular cutlass?      do you happen to know what the standard options for the
rallye were?      thanks!            w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 14:32:35 -0500
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: Latest progress report on the SX

Bob,
	I have to do the same thing soon. Also waiting for some warmer
weather, the usual right now is about 6C. Anyway, I did buy the W-27
cover but I got it from Year One. Actually I got it from my local
MuscleCar shop who bought it from Year One. I get better prices that
way. You guys might know of the shop "Early Birds". Just in case I'm in
Toronto, Ontario, Canada. 

I should check to make sure what you experienced is not the same for me,
as far as my gasket goes. O.k. now for the real question. How did you
know how much diff fluid to put in? The reason I ask is I want to know
how you did it. After letting the rear down, is that when you filled the
diff by checking the fill hole or in the air with a measured amount? 

So you changed the rear suspension. My turned into a "mightaswell",
also, although I planned it that way. What rear spring manufacturer did
you go with? I used TRW's heavy duty constant rate springs. And Monroe
gas shocks. I liked these because they were there and blue. The price
was good too, $25 each.  The springs were $100. The diff is in now (10
Bolt 2.73 posi) . Just waiting to tighten everything up..

Fernando Proietto
A/Manager
Systems Analyst - Informatics Division
Environment Canada
Atmospheric Environment Branch - Ontario Region
4905 Dufferin St. 
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 15:10:09 +0000
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Web pages...

Mike Hall wrote:
>
> There will be lots more added as time goes on, it is under construction.
> It is also geared to you Macintosh users out there...

Yes!!! I knew I wasn't the only one using superior technology!

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 15:15:10 +0000
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: 350 Nodular crank

Chris Brown Witt wrote:
> 
> I extracted the nodular crank from the latest '68 350 motor. Looks like std
> size bearings, could probably use a grind. It's currently taking up valuable
> floor space in the garage. I think it oughta be worth $100. I'm inclined to
> sell. $80 delivered, $50 you pick up. In a week, I'll entertain even lower
> offers. A real nice crank for a 350 engine buildup.

This is a STEAL!!!!! Considering I had to pay $145 for mine plus 2 days
to pull it out of an engine in a junkyard!!!!

Anybody with a 350 build up should snatch this up!!!!

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 14:29:39 -0600
From: "LAURA D. STEINKE" <WPODOM1.HORT-FOREST.LSTEINKE@taexgw.tamu.edu>
Subject: Engine Woes - Advice *PLEASE*

Well I think this is fast becoming an ongoing saga of mine :\  I feel
somewhat akin to whomever it was that was having problems with body
straightening work getting done after an accident.

Well, for those who may remember I keep having engine problems.  Mainly
never getting it back the first time (over 3 months) and when I finally did
having the rebuild done terribly.  Well I took it back in for repair on the first
of December because it was knocking.  Most thought it was the lifters. 
Unfortunatly it wasn't so had to go back to the hack shop <growl>

Well to get to the heart of the matter I called the mechanic since they first
told him that it would be ready mid last week.  He said the hacks who
rebuilt it really screwed up this time.  Yeah, the morons over bored the
block for the replacement wristpins (I belive that's what they said was
wrong).  Does anyone want a couple hundred pound paperweight?

Anyway what I need to know is first of all the place said they found a
replacement block.  Mine was the early 455, should I be picky enough to
demand the same (as in first series or second series)?........Next which is
the *MOST* important, I need to know some quick ID tips for non Olds
engines.  This place's track record isn't great and they seem a bit shady. 
I don't want to be stuck with a Buick, Chevy or any other type of engine
other than an Olds.  I'm not a car junky so couldn't immediatly ID the block
by looks (especially after they paint it).  Any quick tips, things to look for
to make sure it's an Rocket?

And this is prolly a stupid question, is there anyway to tell what the
workmanship is like, without having to wait till it leaves you stranded on
the roadside when you push it?  This place is bad enough they probably
just found the crappiest replacement block they could find.

Sorry for the ranting and all, but if anyone can help I'd really appreciate it. 
BTW, please CC a copy directly to me so I don't miss anything.

Thanks again,
Laura
66 Delta 88 aka Pook

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 12:28:56 -0500
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Re: Brake light on

>I just got a rebuilt TH-350 tranny installed in the '78 Beater, the TH-200 had
>problems since the day I got it (previous owner swore it was rebuilt a year
>ago though, and he had no reason to lie to me since I'd already given him the
>cash at that point) and last week my gear indicator went something like
>P-R-N-N-N-1 :-)
>
>Now that I can get the power to the ground, I've found that the car can
>actually get out of it's own way (but not much more than that).  This weekend
>while out running around, the BRAKE light came on.  Shut car off and turn back
>on, brake light goes off.  Comes back on in a few minutes.  Brakes work fine.
>Not dragging, stops good, doesn't pull to one side or the other.  Locked it up
>in the snow to verify that all four wheels locked up too.  Brake fluid is
>full, if a bit dirty.  Maybe I should bleed them out of general principles.
>
>Any suggestions as to why this light is on?  I know it's main purpose is to
>let you know the e-brake is on, but isn't it also supposed to indicate a brake
>system problem like low fluid (it does on our truck)?  The ratcheting device
>in my e-brake is broken (pedal won't stay down) so I don't use it.  Suppose
>the electrical switch that indicates e-brake on could be broken?  Disconnect
>it?
>
>On a _posi_tive note, while the '78 appears to have salt-flat gears, it also
>looks like I have posi!  Stuck one wheel on compacted snow, another on wet
>pavement and no spin!  Yippie!
>
>Then again, I also just discovered that my fan clutch is toast, and a heater
>hose is leaking.  It's just one thing after another on this car.  I'm
>beginning to feel like Greg with his '78 Delta :-)
>
>--
>Tom Lentz, tlentz@ior.com                        '84 Hurst/Olds #2118
>http://www.ior.com/~tlentz                       '78 Cutlass Supreme
>Network Admin, CPM Corp, Spokane, WA.            '78 Chev 1/2ton (Olds 350)

Rusted parking brake cables can cause the parking brake pedal not to
retract fully and activate the switch.  Try reaching down and wiggling the
pedal and watch the light.  If this is the problem simply replace the rear
cables.


Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 16:06:16 EST
From: DavidEAune <DavidEAune@aol.com>
Subject: Repair of Rochester inlet threads

Hello from digest land.

I have just come upon (Sooooooo far behind in digests!) the Emissives from the
person with the stripped inlet wondering if/how it may be fixed, as well as
the replies to said problem.

As some of you may remember, I had this problem in July/August with my 2GC
carburetor. Very fortunately, I was at that time in touch with Doug Kitchener
(sp?), whom I later met (and am very sory not to have spent more time talking
to..) at Lansing. [As promised, the K.A. version of Lansing Diary forthcoming]
What I am getting at is that D.K. authored a part of the Toro FAQ (at
armchair.net, someone else can provide full URL) which did in part address
this problem.

Truth to tell, it was actually a co-worker who enlightened me to the existence
of the oversized and self-tapping inlet fitting that could be used to fix this
particular problem. A few facts about this fitting follow.

1) I found it in three sizes (self-tapping side) at a Forest City Auto Parts
that was, as far as I am concerned, staffed by unusually knowledgeable
counter-people  (P.H. see below).

2) The smallest size was suitable for a striped 2GC. (I would also assume OK
for Qjets).

3) Threads _opposite_ the self-tapping ones were female (as I recall) for 3/8
tubing. This was the same as the original fitting. HOWEVER, the replacement
was perhaps longer than 1"! This means that existing copper tubing must be re-
bent or replaced. I opted to replace my copper tubing with braided hose and
in-line filter (for anyone who cares; Russel hose and no-name filter). I had
to acquire a special fitting as the carb inlet was now 3/8 tubing female and
fuel pump outlet is 3/8 tubing male and the only hose fittings that I could
find were 3/8 female-to-3/8-hose. I found a 3/8 tubing union (or a combination
of fittings that amounted to the same thing, I really have a terrible memory).
BTW- for those who care, this also cured any vapor lock that accompanied
excessive driving times.

4) The self-tapping threads are necessarily of a different thread pattern than
the original Rochester inlet fitting! This means that, since there are more
threads/inch on the self-tapping fitting, small (read as _damn tiny_ fragments
of the original sripped thread may break off and could potentially clog the
carburetor venturii if they fing their way into the gas stream. For this
reason it is important that you install the fitting once AND NEVER REMOVE IT!
This, if I am not mistaken, is the brunt of Mr. Kithceners article in the Toro
FAQ. 

If you plan on using such a fitting, now would also be a good time to rebuild
the carburetor.

6) The fittings are not HELP! products. As such they are available over the
counter only! (This is why you have not seen them before!)

If I have created anxiety in anyone, good! This is not a task to be taken
lightly. I will say that the fitting that I installed does not leak at approx.
5-6 months after the operation. I will keep you apprised of any (Heaven
forfend) spectacular failures.

Karl Aune and Soylent Ocean Mist
1965 Dynamic 88 Celebrity Sedan

Member OCA, IVOC

Are Counter People against Humanity, or does it just seem like that to
Oldsmobilers?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 98 16:39:05 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Engine Woes - Advice *PLEASE*

     Laura,
     
     You mention that your 66 has an early 455.  I assume this is not the 
     original engine, as the 455 was not released until 1968.  Prior cars 
     had the 425.
     
     As for getting an early 455, the early blocks are more desirable due 
     to the thicker walls and higher nickel content.  For a light duty 
     street motor, you'll likely never notice the difference of a later 
     unit, however it's better to start with the thicker walls if the block 
     needs to be bored.  To identify an early block, look for a large 
     raised letter "F" or "F1" cast into the rear of the block underneath 
     the flywheel.  Later blocks will have the designations "F2" through 
     "F6".
     
     For identification of a non-Olds engine, there are some easy methods 
     which I'll note in a second, however let me say first that it is 
     probably more work for the shop to swap brands (even among GM sister 
     divisions) than to get another Olds motor.  This shop doesn't sound 
     like one to take on more work, so I wouldn't worry about it.
     
     Having said that, of the five GM divisions, engine ID is as follows:
     
     The Olds engine uses a rear-mounted distributor which _does not_ pass 
     through the intake manifold - it mounts to a little shelf at the back 
     of the block aft of the intake.  Olds engines also use ten bolts per 
     valve cover (except for very late Olds V8s, which only use five, but 
     which also have locations for five undrilled holes on the valve 
     cover).  All other GM engines use fewer bolts per valve cover.  The 
     other distinctive Olds identifier is the oil fill tube sticking up 
     from the front of the block, directly above the water pump.  All the 
     other GM engines (actually, I'm not sure about Caddy) have an oil fill 
     cap on one of the valve covers.
     
     Caddy and Buick are easy to spot, as both have front-mounted 
     distributors (unlike the other three GM divisions' engines).  The 
     Caddy distributor is roughly in a straight up and down orientation, 
     while the Buick distributor is angled.
     
     Chevy motors have a different bellhousing bolt pattern than the rest 
     of the GM engines.  Installation of a Chevy in your car would require 
     a different transmission or an adapter plate, either of which would be 
     pretty obvious.  Another thing to look for is a distributor which 
     passes through the intake manifold (Olds distributors do not).
     
     Pontiac motors also have a rear-mounted distributor, but use only four 
     bolts per valve cover (similar to the small block Chevy).
     
     I hope this helps.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 17:41:28 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Hosed

On Sun, 4 Jan 1998, Lloyd Ferguson wrote:
> As far as your leak problem, I think there is a drain hole in the bottom of
> the heater housing (if yours is air-conditioned) to drain the water getting
> in through the cowl vents.  In spite of this I also have had water from
> automatic car-washes drop on the passenger's siode floor mats.

It's a non-A/C car but it has the same drain you refer to. Unfortunately 
since the floor of the heater box is flat for all intents and purposes 
the drain only works if the car is level or pointing downhill. My 
driveway points uphill slightly and I think this leads to water coming 
back in via the floor heater outlet. Come spring I might try fabricating a 
small dam for the inside of the thing, or a drain tube from the outlet of 
the baffle below the cowl inlet to the drain.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 17:43:35 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Brake light on

On Mon, 5 Jan 1998, Tom Lentz wrote:
> Then again, I also just discovered that my fan clutch is toast, and a heater
> hose is leaking.  It's just one thing after another on this car.  I'm
> beginning to feel like Greg with his '78 Delta :-)

Yeah, I feel for you, Tom.... <growl>

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 17:54:36 -0500
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 1970 W-32?

At 06:44 PM 12/31/97 +0000, you wrote:
Matt and list,

        Yes. These cars existed. I just sold one to another list member. The
supposed number of these W-32 cars built were 1,025 units. There has been no
firm documentation of exact numbers. All of them had the base 365 hp 442 engine
and the OG code TH400. All other SX's had the OD code TH400. That is the
biggest thing to look for. These cars even though they are called W-32's
were produced in any plant because the engine was not hand assembled like
the W-30 and W-31's.

Jim Chermack

>Does anybody have production figures for these? For that matter, does
>anybody know if they even existed?
>-- 
>**********************************
>Matt Cremean
>+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
>CreamerSoftİ Software
>http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
>+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
>1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
>http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
>**********************************
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 16:05:05 -0000
From: "GREGG GREER" <gregg@inficad.com>
Subject: Re: 1970 W-32? (and other Q's too)

Hey! Now I'm confused!  I have a '70 SX that came from the dealer originaly
with the 455 that has the cast iron 4-barrel intake and carb. setup and the
big valve E heads and TH400, but the rear is a 12 bolt limited-slip with
the 2.56 setup (just the other day I got under the car and did the
driveshaft turns vs. wheel turn thingy; I was hopin' to have at LEAST a
3.08 :-( ) and not the 3.08 rear as Dr. Barry (or other source) says it
should have.  The car was purchased new from the dealer and nothin' has
been swapped or changed out as far as I know (refer back to my original
question concerning this posted on 12/5/97).  Anyway, does this mean the
car should have come standard with the 3.08 rear since I do have the W-32
option?  Also, the engine has just been rebuilt; it was bored .030 over (I
guess that makes it a 461 now) and now has a Mondello JM 20-22 cam, forged
pistons, etc., etc., and I have converted from a stock point distributor to
HEI that has a MSD High Perf. Ignition module and coil combo. providing
spark through ACCEL 300+ 8.8mm wires to AC 46SX plugs gapped at .080.  My
questions are these:  1. Does anyone have this same (or nearly same) setup
and, if so, what what would be/is the best config. concerning a spring and
weights install (re-curve kit) for the distributor (go with light springs
and stock weights, or one light spring and one meium spring and kit
weights, etc.??) and, 2.  Would it be better (as some of you have suggested
in the recent past) to go with a .060 gap or since I have the aftermarket
performance ignition setup to stay with the recommended gap of .080??  As
always, all instructions, suggestions, comments, cursings because maybe
this is such an often asked question(s) and all you Olds experts (I'm not
worthy) are tired of addressing the same such questions over and over, are
greatly appreciated!!!  Oh, and BTW, would someone happen to know the
correct color of paint (it's like a silver color) for the front plastic
grills of the '70 Cutlass Supremes and where I can buy the spray paint
(like at NAPA or other)??  Thanks again!!!

Gregg "this WAS my fathers Oldsmobile" Greer
GIS Specialist  Phx., AZ
'70 SX W-32
- ----------
> From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 1970 W-32?
> Date: Saturday, January 03, 1998 10:28 PM
> 
> ><< Actually, the W-32 (in '70) was an option *on* the SX which upgraded
the 
> > standard 2-bbl 455 to the 4-bbl 442 engine.
> >  >>
> >Thats incorrect Kurt. The 70 SX W-32 option was only a 455 upgrade.  I
myself
> >owned a 70 SX with 455 2bbl and it was original.  The options that came
> >standard with the 70 SX are as follow
>  [snip of description of SX option]
> 
> I'm just wondering what in Kurt's statement is being called incorrect?
The
> W-32 455 being the same motor installed in the 442? The W-32 certainly
> wasn't an upgrade to an L-31 big-car 455; in fact, the whole drivetrain
was
> different when the SX was ordered with the W-32 option (big-valve 4-bbl
455
> & OG-code TH400 & 3.08 rear, vs. the regular SX's small-valve 2-bbl 455 &
> OD-code TH400 & 2.56 rear). Considering that the SX option *only*
included
> the drivetrain items, the W-32 was a completely different car than the
> regualar Y-79 Supreme
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 17:50:49 EST
From: OldsGuyGA <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 1965 Oldsmobile Cutlass

 do you have any consoles. shifters, tachs

  olds guy ga ....

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 19:29:05 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Wierd Occurance...

In Sears, buying a tire for my 87 Cutlass...  I noticed the computer
that Sears used listed the 87 Cutlass as the Following:

87 Cutlass Supreme/F85

Who'da thought it??? <G>
- -- 
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
- - Here we go Steelers!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 19:34:45 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Internally regulated alternator

Is there an easy way to tell an internally regulated alternator from
an external? My 69 chassis manual shows a transistorized, internally
regulated alternator for all 442s. My car is a Cutlass S and has an
external regulator mounted on the firewall, BUT, the alternator looks
identical to the internally regulated one pictured in the manual
(including the connections). It looks nothing like the externally
regulated "generator" shown in the manual. The problem is, it's an
aftermarket unit, not a Delco Remy.
The question is important to me because I'm installing an HEI
distributor and don't want to burn out the module in the HEI.
BTW, does the FAQ need to be updated to include the fact that 442s
earlier than 1972 had the internal regulator?
Another question. Where do I hook up my tach. The new distributor
doesn't have a connector marked for the tach. At least I can't see it.
My old eyes aren't what they used to be though.
Thanks for any help y'all can give.

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S convertible
OCA# 29770
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 19:44:05 -0800
From: 62 STARFIRE <bullets@sgi.net>
Subject: #1 Grand Champion "My Classic Car Contest"

To All List Members,
     I would like to thank everyone on the list who supported me in
the MCC Contest. Suprisingly I came in First Place which made me the
Grand Championship Winner of the contest..It was really pleasure to 
have an OLDSMOBILE come in First Place and also another lists members
Oldsmobile come in Second. Which goes to show OLDS,are #1 and always 
will be #1..Which all of us on the Olds list already know.THANKS again
for all your support..
                                                Larry Polesnak
                                             Pittsburgh,Pennsylvania
      6    2    S    T    A    R    F    I    R    E
- -- 
                /\__________________/\_________________/\
           /\__/Amateur Radio Station  WB3KJG  ARES,RACES\__/\   
      /\__/Skywarn/ 1O1O# 459OO /BreezeShooters Number 87-279 \__/\    
     / BreezeShooters web site   http://www.users.sgi.net/~wolfie/ \
    / 1962 STARFIRE"http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/downs/6250/" \ 
   -------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 19:55:10 -0500
From: loris <loris@tir.com>
Subject: A final word on Brother's service

A final word on Brother's service/product . . .

At 15 yaers of age, I worked in a Baskin Robbins ice cream store.  On a
store wall (I'll never forget this, and I use it constantly in the
information services industry -- but it applies to ALL service and
products companies) was a qoute from John Ruskin that reads something
like this:

"There is hardly anything in the world
that some man cannot make a little worse 
and sell a little cheaper, 
and the people who consider price only 
are this man's lawful prey."

If I'm like anyone else that demands quality service, VERY high quality
products, and competitive/reasonable prices, I will take my time to find
all three.  It's a buyer beware country.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 19:45:55 EST
From: SRDIET <SRDIET@aol.com>
Subject: I'm Back on the List

Hey everyone,  I'm back.
I started a new job mid Nov. and have been tied up,  11 hour days + 2 hrs. a
day travel time, so I didn't think I could keep up with all of the messages
coming in.  
I'm going to attempt to get on line every day, or every other day to keep up.
Anything new here ?
Working long hours during the week has also kept me from working on my
restoration.  However, the weekends have been good and I am making great
progress.  I'm looking for a paint shop to apply the paint in the next couple
of weeks and then I can put this thing back together.  I have every single
component now completely restored and boxed ready to go on. The frame and body
work is complete, as is the engine and trans. which I have installed.  I have
completed the seats, door panels and all the wiring and now left with
polishing the stainless and aluminum.  I'm getting anxous to bring all the
parts into the garage and start re-assembling the entire car.  I still hope to
be complete, and attend Sringfield in July and meet some of you.

Steve Dietrich
    S/E PA
        71 442 W-30 Conv.
 
P.S.-I do need a couple of parts if anyone has any leads,  455 heat riser
shield (new or used) and a set of headlight bezzels.    

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 20:04:31 -0500
From: "deirdre. reilly" <102724.635@compuserve.com>
Subject: re:Non-performance W-options

Well I finaly got curious and decided to look in my chassis service manual
as it lists all the RPO codes available for '85.

One question concerning a W code,  would a double alpha (ie. WJ7 - custom
leather trim) be considdered a W code?  or only a single alpha (ie. W42 -
Cutlass 442)

Well anyway here's a couple more that don't really have anything to do with
performance:

WL7 - popular option package
WM9 - product delivery service - export
W82 - canada billing extra fuel (it's got so much performance Olds had to  
                give it more gas to get it to Canada) ;)


Here's one that is not a W code but interesting none-the-less
ZR6 - Show car

Be interesting to find out which ones had that!!

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'83 Cutlass Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 19:04:04 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: #1 Grand Champion "My Classic Car Contest"

Now that is nice.  Happy New Year to you both!

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible


>To All List Members,
>     I would like to thank everyone on the list who supported me in
>the MCC Contest. Suprisingly I came in First Place which made me the
>Grand Championship Winner of the contest..It was really pleasure to 
>have an OLDSMOBILE come in First Place and also another lists members
>Oldsmobile come in Second
>                                                Larry Polesnak

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 20:07:28 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Dead horse.  Quarter panel debacle.

To all,

I'm done beating on this dead horse.  This note is to inform all of you
that I sent an apology e-mail to Brother's about last night's
out-of-hand debate debacle.  Let me also apologize to all on this list
for airing my comments on a public forum.  It was poor judgement on my
part and all of us involved in that "tirade" should act more our age
than our shoe size.  I'm not taking sides, except the Oldsmobile one. 
This list has provided me with a wealth of knowledge and new "buddies"
that share my interests.  And I hope I have helped others as well. 
Again, I apologize for any inconvenience you may have suffered over
worthless "fighting".

Refraining from soapboxing,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 21:22:22 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Rear Side Markers

On Sun, 4 Jan 1998, Glenn Connors wrote:
>  Does anyone know if the side-markers on the quarter panels are the same for
> both the '68 and '69 4-4-2's.

I always thought they were the same, but I see Fusick lists 2 different 
items, one for each year, so there must be a subtle difference.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 19:29:01 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Dead horse.  Quarter panel debacle.

Nice man!

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible


>To all,
>
>I'm done beating on this dead horse.  This note is to inform all of you
>that I sent an apology e-mail to Brother's about last night's
>out-of-hand debate debacle.  Let me also apologize to all on this list
>for airing my comments on a public forum>Mike Rothe
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 20:53:30 -0500
From: loris <loris@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Dead horse.  Quarter panel debacle.

MROTHE wrote:
> 
> To all,
> 
> I'm done beating on this dead horse.  This note is to inform all of you
> that I sent an apology e-mail to Brother's about last night's
> out-of-hand debate debacle.  Let me also apologize to all on this list
> for airing my comments on a public forum.  It was poor judgement on my
> part and all of us involved in that "tirade" should act more our age
> than our shoe size.  I'm not taking sides, except the Oldsmobile one.
> This list has provided me with a wealth of knowledge and new "buddies"
> that share my interests.  And I hope I have helped others as well.
> Again, I apologize for any inconvenience you may have suffered over
> worthless "fighting".
> 
> Refraining from soapboxing,
> Mike Rothe


Mike, you the man!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 21:49:38 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: December/January JWOs

Finally got my December JWO last week, with the Lansing Diaries in 
them... wow, they were long. Never realized. Looked good though, Doug 
Kitchener did a nice job of editing, and I'm grateful to Penny for giving 
them so much space. Only wish they paid by the word... or at all... ;-)

January's issue came the very next day. Got to see a pic of the back of 
Paul Hartlieb's head in one of the pics... ;-) A little surprised to see 
that Steve DeNovi is stepping down after all this time as OCA president. 
Sounds like he's going into the parts biz. Might give him a call, I see 
he has a front bumper for the Delta I'm not restoring.... 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 21:52:14 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Diggin Thru the Vaults

While scanning the hard drive on my computer at work today I found 4 or 5 
text files that contained some of the very first posts on the Olds list 
from May/June of '95. Some of them were pretty naive. But I thought they 
were long gone, so it was kind of nice to reminisce. Don't know if 
they're in Jeff Easton's archives or not.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 21:11:58 -0500
From: loris <loris@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Side Markers

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> 
> On Sun, 4 Jan 1998, Glenn Connors wrote:
> >  Does anyone know if the side-markers on the quarter panels are the same for
> > both the '68 and '69 4-4-2's.
> 
> I always thought they were the same, but I see Fusick lists 2 different
> items, one for each year, so there must be a subtle difference.
> 
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

I've been looking at several up close photos of a 1969 quarter panel,
and compared to my 1968 it looks as if those side markers are the same. 
I checked USA Auto Parts and they have the same part number, except that
the year designation is different. I do know that in 1970 is when they
changed dramatically.  Also, it seems that the curvature of the rear of
the quarters match the curvature of the bumpers on both years.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 21:33:30 -0500
From: loris <loris@tir.com>
Subject: Clarification on L34 and L35 engines

What's the differnce between an L34 and an L35 on a 1972 350 cid?  It
appears to me that the L34 was used only in intermediate models and the
L35 was used on full-size models.  Otherwise, ALL of the engine specs
are identicle.  Or am I incorrect on this?  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 21:44:20 -0500
From: "Robert T. Handren, Jr." <bobhandren@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: 425 pistons into 400 'E' block?

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Subject: Re: 425 pistons into 400 'E' block?

<<At 09:16 PM 12/30/97 EST, you wrote:
Peter

        NO WAY! The E block can only be safely bored .100. That's all. =
The
cheapest way to go is get STD 350 pistons and bore the engine .057. They
work great. You can even get the flat top W-31 pistons and have it the =
same
as the originals. I've used these before with excellent results.>>

Never say never. I know of at least three early _short stroke_ 400s that =
have been bored 0.125 over to use 425 pistons (if you can find them =
[forged] other than custom) and they run great. No overheating, no =
excessive wear. etc.  One is even drag raced, so it can be done and has =
been repeatedly done. Just make sure your machine shop can sonic test =
the block to ensure core shift has not occurred such that one or more =
bores are off center, casting Vs bore location.

Moreover I believe Mondello claims most any 425/455 block can be bored =
0.125 over as well. As I've mentioned before, using the short stroke =
400/425 crank & reciprocating assembly with a 4.250 bore gets you about =
445 cid.  And I still also believe such an engine will blow an =
equivalently prepared 455 (same CR, heads, etc.) into the weeds spotting =
it 10 cubes.  Remember the Buick GS Stage 1 and 2 cars had a similar =
over square  bore/stroke and were killer engines.  Over square also =
works with those "other" engines as described in many magazine articles =
and dyno tests.

Try it, you'll like it.

Bob Handren

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<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Subject: Re: 425 pistons into 400 'E' block?<BR><BR>&lt;&lt;At =
09:16 PM=20
12/30/97 EST, you=20
wrote:<BR>Peter<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; NO =
WAY! The E=20
block can only be safely bored .100. That's all. The<BR>cheapest way to =
go is=20
get STD 350 pistons and bore the engine .057. They<BR>work great. You =
can even=20
get the flat top W-31 pistons and have it the same<BR>as the originals. =
I've=20
used these before with excellent results.&gt;&gt;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Never say never. I know of at least =
three early=20
_short stroke_ 400s that have been bored 0.125 over to use 425 pistons =
(if you=20
can find them [forged] other than custom) and they run great. No =
overheating, no=20
excessive wear. etc.&nbsp; One is even drag raced, so it can be done and =
has=20
been repeatedly done. Just make sure your machine shop can sonic test =
the block=20
to ensure core shift has not occurred such that one or more bores are =
off=20
center, casting Vs bore location.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Moreover I believe Mondello claims =
most any=20
425/455 block can be bored 0.125 over as well. As I've mentioned before, =
using=20
the short stroke 400/425 crank &amp; reciprocating assembly with a 4.250 =
bore=20
gets you about 445 cid.&nbsp; And I still also believe such an engine =
will blow=20
an equivalently prepared 455 (same CR, heads, etc.) into the weeds =
spotting it=20
10 cubes.&nbsp; Remember the Buick GS Stage 1 and 2 cars had a similar =
over=20
square&nbsp; bore/stroke and were killer engines.&nbsp; Over square also =
works=20
with those &quot;other&quot; engines as described in many magazine =
articles and=20
dyno tests.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Try it, you'll like it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Bob Handren</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 21:46:30 EST
From: Mikey tvb <Mikeytvb@aol.com>
Subject: engines

what would a 403 engine run like with the full edelbrock rpm kit in it?  has
anyone ever done this?

mikey tvb@aol.com
73 cutlass w/403

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 21:57:15 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: '66 Post Coupe parts car ?

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 06:56:38 -0800
From: "Mike Aldana" <maldana@digitalwave.net>
Subject: 1966 Cutlass
Parting out 2 dr. htp. Rust free parts, bucket seats, complete car.  Mike
maldana@digitalwave.net
- ------------------------------
Not to detract from Mr. Aldena's parts or anything... [really, wait 'til you
see...] but I too have a "nice" '66 Cutlass parts car.

I finally go the pic posted on Bryce's site [www.442.com] so check it out if
you please. Some of you may remember the story of how I "obtained" this beauty.
Free bonus to (s)he who finds the best part in the picture!

Bryce said it's in the section where I'm listed as a supplier, "Rocket Science"
I think.

Heh. Take a look, prove to your family *you* are not "nuts" or "obsessed".
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 22:01:55 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: cc'ing with plate

From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
>Oh, I measured the piston dish of that 2V motor also, by measurements it calcs
>out to 20.1cc. I shall cc it later with the plate & syringe method,

  What is the plate part of the cc. measurement.  I've cc'd pistons before
using a syringe but had to guesstimate visually because of surface tention
characteristics of the water.
====================
That is why you cnnot get accurate numbers like that. Can be off by several cc
easy. I got a piece of 1/4" clear plastic, about 4" round, drilled a hole about
1/2" from the side. I smear grease around the periphery of the cavern to be
measured, to effect a seal, and press the plate onto the surface well. With the
hole right next to an edge of the hole. Put in the water with a reasonable
syringe or burette it you have one... I find a 60cc syringe is great. Tip the
part slightly so the hole is uppermost, and air bubble leaves there last.
Voila', your concave space is measured.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 19:59:39 -0700
From: "Travis Adams" <cashmore@imt.net>
Subject: Re: 1965 Oldsmobile Cutlass

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I am interested.  What have you got?

Travis Adams
65 442 post



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EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:cashmore@imt.net
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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1042
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