To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1025


oldsmobile-digest     Tuesday, December 23 1997     Volume 01 : Number 1025



Re: weatherstripping
Re: Olds Plaque ª1971!
Re: Manifolds
Re: Vacuum Breaks
Re: EGR Blockoff Plate?
Re: 69 442
Re: 1968-69 RAM AIR SET UP
Re: MI swap meet
Auction (Re: question   about  tenn..)
Re: 69 442
Re: 69 442 - ROUND ONE
Re: Alternators
Re: Alternators
Re: A Christmas Story
Re: Coincidence?
oldsmobile-digest V1 ª1023
Re: Vacuum Breaks
Re: Alternators
Re: 69 442
Re: "84 Hurst Wheel
subscribe oldsmobile
Re: Olds Plaque ª1971!
85 Cutlass with duals?
'71 W-30 on Speedvision!!!
'71 W-30 on Speedvision!!!
Re: Auction (Re: question   about  tenn..)
Re: 85 Cutlass with duals?
65 370hp 425
UNBOUNCE: 65 370hp 425
Re: alternator
'83 Cutlass Supreme, 305CC
Re: MI swap meet
Re: Vacuum Breaks
Vacuum diagrams
Re: 69 442
Re: need keys!
Re: '92 Achieva
White Window Cranks
Re: '71 W-30 on Speedvision!!!
Re: UNBOUNCE: 65 370hp 425
Happy Holidays
SUBSCRIBE
Re: '83 Cutlass Supreme, 305CC
Re: UNBOUNCE: '70 442 H*lp
Re[2]: UNBOUNCE: '70 442 H*lp
unsubscribe oldsmobile
Re: Re[2]: UNBOUNCE: '70 442 H*lp
Re: Montana Land Speed Record?
Re: '83 Cutlass Supreme, 305CC
Re: White Window Cranks
1970 Trunk Mat
Re: '83 Cutlass Supreme, 305CC
Re: 1970 Trunk Mat
Re: 69 442
Does anybody know Opus Yeager?
possible exhaust manifold setup

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 22:03:29
From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Subject: Re: weatherstripping

At 09:12 PM 12/22/1997 EST, you wrote:
>Has anyone out there installed new weatherstripping before? I've installed
>Soft Seal's roof rail kit for my 73, and have run into a few problems, namely
>it is impossible to roll the window up with the door closed.  Did I do
>something wrong or does is need awhile to take the shape of the glass?
>thanks for any help, and sorry I'm bothering you.
>
>DrkSole
>73 Cutlass Suprem
>67 Delta 88 Custom

I wouldn't say you're bothering anybody!  I had similar experiences
installing new weatherstrip on both my '64 and '75 Olds's.  Especially with
the '75, which is a convertible, when I installed the new windshield pillar
weatherstrips that contact the leading edges of the door windows when
they're up, the passenger side window would not go up all the way when it
was raised with the door closed.  What I had to do was open the door
slighly, raise the window, and then close the door firmly.  This pressed
the window into the new rubber and, over time, molded it to fit the door.
So I think you just need to wait awhile and let the rubber take the shape
of the glass.


Dan


*********************************************************
Dan Gulino
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
*********************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 23:15:35 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Olds Plaque ª1971!

I got my plaques the other day... one for me, the other a gift for a
friend. I wish I had known that ª1971 was available... his is a '71 and
that would have been perfect. For that matter, I would have loved to get
ª1968 for myself if only I had thought to ask. As it is, I got ª2003 and
he gets ª1945. No matter, they are beautiful items. I also got a
centennial beer mug in the order along with a shirt and a lapel pin...
and nice memories of Lansing in August.

BTW, is there anyone in Canada here on the list that has received the
December JWO yet? No one here locally has received it. I'm wondering if
they are hung up somewhere due to the mail strike we had up here or if
they were ever sent in the first place. I would really like to see my
article...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 22:34:52 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Manifolds

>     Bob Barry wrote that the RH dual exhaust big block manifold
>would not fit a small block because of oil filter adapter
>interference, but that the LH side might fit. It doesn't! I tried it
>before....it hits the starter!
>===
>John Pajak

John, thanks for clearing that up. Now that I think of it, when I was all
set to install my SX manifolds on my 403, I was disappointed when *both*
sides wouldn't fit (forgot that starter interference). So, it looks like
small-blocks are stuck with the stock manifolds (which are nearly identical
across a wide range of years...).

I'm surprised that there are no aftermarket castings for such beasts,
however. Or at least repros of the good '70 Big-block dual-exhaust manifolds.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 22:38:18 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Vacuum Breaks

>I suspect I have a problem with the choke vacuum break on the Delta. When
>you start it from cold, it catches readily enough, but will chug for a
>few seconds until something (vacuum I suspect) takes over and then it
>settles into a fast idle. In really cold weather, though, it doesn't do
>that as readily and you have to give it a little gas as soon as it starts
>to keep it from dying. Once it goes into fast idle it's fine from then on.

Hmmm, my 403 has the same symptoms; I don't know if it's the vacuum break or
not (I too have to add some throttle to keep it going until it "catches"; I
was thinking more along the lines of an ignition problem, though, as it
misses badly for those first few seconds).

>I looked in my manual and discovered the 4-bbl carb has 2 vacuum breaks
>for some reason. I was just going to order the replacement and put it on
>but I don't want to buy 2 if I only need one. How can I check these to
>determine which is at fault? I don't have a vacuum pump if that makes any
>difference. Hopefully there's an easy way to check. Starting it when cold
>and then running around to the passenger side to visually inspect doesn't
>seem likely to be successful.  Any ideas?

I'll be waiting as well; I'll also check my vacuum breaks for their operation.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 22:53:32 EST
From: Oldsnut <Oldsnut@aol.com>
Subject: Re: EGR Blockoff Plate?

These are so easy to make, why would you want to buy one?  Just use a gasket
to scribe the shape on to a 1/4" piece of plate and cut it out on a band saw
or sabre saw.  You can drill the holes with a drill press or hand drill.

In a message dated 97-12-21 10:49:31 EST, you write:

<< I know that Edelbrock sells one with their Performer Plus manifold, but
 do they sell them separate? Or, for that matter, does anybody else sell
 one, or am I going to have to fabricate my own? >>

Paul Pate
Mechanical Design Engineer
Port Neches, Texas
70 Cutlass S (350-4V, TH-350, 12-bolt 3.08)
84 Camaro (305-4V, TH-700, 10-bolt 3.08)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 22:58:56 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 69 442

Mike,

Thanks for all the info.

Good news about Hurst, because I think it's actually worn.  It moves back and
forth, sloppy play, like my steering wheel :), without even affecting the
linkage, so when it does pull the cable, it's already lost a good deal of
leverage/travel distance.

Good news about the radio plate.  I know of some junked 69 cutlasses, I'll
take a look at them.

I'll have to wait on the carb I guess.  What would cause a leaking float bowl?
The warp in the carb, or...?

I still can't find my collection of needles, it may be that the last pair I
put in aren't seating properly, but that was long before the carb was rebuilt,
and this showed up afterwards.

I think it's time I started learning, because no one has ever fixed the carb
properly.

Thanks Mike

Aaron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 23:07:32 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 1968-69 RAM AIR SET UP

In a message dated 97-12-22 11:59:37 EST, you write:

<< Who did you find??? How much??? I'm officially responding with an
 inquiry!!!
  >>

Last time I looked Year One had them for under $200. I'm not sure about
specifics.

Aaron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 23:09:22 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: MI swap meet

Chris
 What ya looking for. I'll be attending this as well
In fact meeting Mark down there and hanging out for a couple
days.

 I'll take dibbs on first 69 sport steering wheel though.
P.S. -have any ideas where one available at reasonable $$
         would consider trade of 70 sport wheel & cash.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 23:03:02 EST
From: CRuper1 <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Auction (Re: question   about  tenn..)

In a message dated 97-12-20 22:33:35 EST, you write:

<<
 Even those who thought they had bought cars had to wait until later when the
 land sold.  The buyer there had first option on all the cars.  If he didn't
 want to pay for those, the successful bidders got the cars.

 The cars were in parts car condition.  All the oldsmobiles except one 4 door
 Cutlass were non-restorable.  All were poor & missing parts.  Most were
 rusty.  It was a giant waste of time.

 Bill Culp   >>

Shouldn't these idiots think of offering the landowner first choice, rather
than have all these people bidding on the cars, to possibly not get them?....
Seems kinda ass-backwards to me.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 23:12:23 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 69 442

In a message dated 97-12-22 20:46:35 EST, you write:

<< Don
 (Aaron's dad)

 Hey, Aaron, check that out.  :)
  >>

Hey,

I never talked to you on a list before.

Your voice sounds different.

Aaron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 23:27:06 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 69 442 - ROUND ONE

Insurance company said get a couple estimates.

ª1 Frame off european restoration place (ferraris, triumphs, jaguars, etc.)

Valued the car at $7500, figured about $3500-$4000 damage to start, get the
insurance guys to ok it, then once he pulls it apart, if it needs more, it
needs more.

Replace the quarters, trunk, wheel wells, bumper (may straighten it), etc.
paint blended into the doors

I saw an El Camino he just finished, he does good work.

ª2  Gary's in Atlanta

Got there late, Gary wanted to see it in the light.  Does show winning paint
jobs, strips the car to bare metal, does it right.  Figured $3500 to start, I
have to take it back tomorrow to have him look underneath and see how
extensive the frame damage is.  Shop had a couple Vettes and a camaro stripped
to metal.  Was concerned about insurance company wanting to total it.

Hasn't looked in the trunk yet :)


Aaron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 23:52:35 -0500
From: Bill Gochenour <3STICKS@stjohns.edu>
Subject: Re: Alternators

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> Is there any downside to upsizing an alternator? I notice that mine lets
> the dash lights dim noticably at night when idling if you have the rear
> defroster on along with the heater fan, etc. As soon as you pick up revs
> it ups it's output and things get brighter. Maybe it's dying, I dunno, but
> I was thinking I might want to replace it with an 80 amp one. Are there
> any problems associated with this?
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada


Greg !

If you've got a GM car, you can go up to a 120 AMP alternator without
any modification, after that you'll need external regulation. If your
interested in trying something else first before you change the
alternator. On the alternator you have now, change the belt pulley to
the smallest diameter you can find, this will make the unit spin faster
at lower engine RPM's. Thus producing higher output when the RPM's are
low.

Also, when choosing an alternator check what the "HOT" rating is. For
example if it says 80 amps, it will probably give you 57-60 tops when at
200 degrees. Not good !

Good Luck !


- ----------

Bill !

                                              _           _       ___
1986 442 "The Perfect 10"                   /  |        /  |    /  _  \
1983 Hurst/Olds 15th Anniversary Edition  /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z-34              /  / | |_   /  / | |_      /  /
1997 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Z-34        |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__
                                             |_|         |_|   |_______|
     * * * IT"S FINALLY HERE * * *
1997 Master Craft ProStar 190 Competition Ski boat
                              (w/LT-1 Vette Motor)

        http://area51.stjohns.edu/~toychest     (updated 4/30/97)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 00:38:01 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Alternators

Greg Beaulieu wrote:

>>I notice that mine lets
>>the dash lights dim noticably at night when idling if you have the rear
>>defroster on along with the heater fan, etc. As soon as you pick up revs
>>it ups it's output and things get brighter.

I wouldn't worry, Greg;  when I'm driving along at 50km/h, and I do
something like turn the heater fan from low to high, or roll up the
windows (pwr), the lights will dim a little.  The alternator in my Delta
is an 80 amp...I believe that all A/C equipped cars came w/ 80amp
alternators, and the non A/C's came with a 60, I think....(I'n not sure
of the exact amperage, I just know it's a bit lower...)

>>Maybe it's dying, I dunno,

I hope not!  That means that mine is going VVK as well!

>>I was thinking I might want to replace it with an 80 amp one. Are there
>>any problems associated with this

A friend of mine ordered a 140 amp alternator from Summit racing,
because he's into serious stereo systems, and keeps killing his
batteries...he had a stock 80 amp in his Blazer, which was 20 years old,
BTW.  Both the 80 and the 140 both charged at the same voltage (if not,
kiss your battery goodbye).  All he had to do was swap pulleys, and
replace the belt...nothing serious.

The 140 works great...we hooked up two pairs of floodlights to it for a
hockey game out on the lake, and the twin 450 CCA batteries ran
completely dead after four hours...we boosted the truck, let it run at
cold fast idle for 10 minutes (manual choke), and it charged the
batteries quite well...started the 350 quite easily the next morning.
Considering the fact that the price was *only* (LOL) $169.95 US, I'd
certainly hope that it would work well.  In my opinion, for that price
it should be able to stand on it's head, split the atom, increase the HP
by 25%, and charge the system all at the same time...$250.00 CDN
(roughly) can buy a lot of booster cables!

- --
S. Dave Ward  (mailto:ward@ptbo.igs.net)

'78 Delta 88 Royale (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 R.B.   (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC Sierra 4x4  (305 TBI)

(Ennismore, Ontario, CANADA)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 21:45:36 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: A Christmas Story

classic line from "A Christams Story" (Red Rider BB Gun Story)
 my dad was
>an Oldsmobile man."
Ahh, triple dog dare you!  The first few times I watched that I couldn't
get over the lamp, that cracked me up so much.  Then I watched the *rest*
of it and heard that line (finally).

Happy Holidays to all!

Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 21:47:16 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Coincidence?

As it also suggests 'Demon' for Delmont and 'Tornado' for Toronado.

Pretty appropriate.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: 22 Dec 1997 22:29:16 PST
From: mjones@gleep.com
Subject: oldsmobile-digest V1 ª1023

OL>On 20 Dec 1997 mjones@gleep.com wrote:
OL>> The rear of my '78 Delta is sagging kind of noticably, so I want to
OL>> replace the original rear springs.  But I wish to replace them with a
OL>> pair of rear springs from a '90 9C1, which would give the car a little
OL>> bit of a rake.  Does anybody have any pictures of any '77-85 B-bodies
OL>> that have a rake of 2 or so inches?  I want to know how this looks
OL>> before I go out and purchase the springs (BTW, they are pn 482086, $46
OL>> each from Dal Lambert Buick I believe)

OL>Mine has a bit of a rake but it's because the front springs have sagged!
OL>And of course it's a 4-door. I have never seen one of these with the kind
OL>of stance you describe but I can't imagine it would look too bad. Those
OL>prices intrigue me though... I looked into front springs for mine and the
OL>wholesale prices (in worthless Canadian $) from GM were in the $100-$120
OL>range each. I could get a pair of aftermarket (TRW I'd guess) for $150
OL>from my parts store friend, which list for about $220. Are front springs
OL>*that* much more pricey, even accounting for the exchange rate?

I dunno.  What is the exchange rate currently inbetween US and Canadian
funds?  I think shipping and handling COULD be included with that price
I quoted, but I am not sure.  The price that I came up with was a result
of using the 'www.worldparts.com' homepage.  That was the lowest price
out of 7 or 8 quotes.

I am going to leave my front springs alone, mostly because the rear is
MUCH easier to do, and I won't have to have an alignment if I replace
them:)  (steering/suspension class starts up in 3 wks I believe :)

Mike Jones
'78 Delta 88
mailto: mjones@gleep.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 02:14:58 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: Vacuum Breaks

Hi Greg,

> you start it from cold, it catches readily enough, but will chug for a
> few seconds until something (vacuum I suspect) takes over and then it

This does sound as if the front vacuum break has developed a small leak,
which would retard the opening of the choke valve immediately after the
engine has started.

> but I don't want to buy 2 if I only need one. How can I check these to

The rear vacuum break isn't critical to starting.  It appears to function
as a fine tuning aid, unloading the choke slightly after a set time delay
resulting in a leaner mixture to reduce emissions during vehicle warm-up.

> and then running around to the passenger side to visually inspect doesn't
> seem likely to be successful.  Any ideas?

Disconnect the vacuum line leading to the front break.  Depress the
plunger fully inwards, plug the vacuum inlet hole with your finger, then
observe if the plunger creeps outward.  If the latter occurs, there is a
slight leak in the diaphragm.  In some cases where there is a massive
leak, the speed at which the plunger extends alone will indicate that
something is amiss, since normally, this event occurs in a fairly slow and
controlled manner.

When installing a new front vacuum break, use a set of flat feeler gauges
and adjust the phillips screw (a clockwise direction will result in less
choke valve opening) so that there is anywhere (start on the rich end
of the scale) from 0.120" to 0.150" gap between the rear of the choke
valve and the carburetor casing.  Make sure the throttle is on the 2nd
highest step of the fast-idle cam, and if the engine is warm and the choke
coil is unloaded, you'll have to use your finger (to simulate coil
tension) to hold the choke valve tang against the choke pull-off's plunger
while adjustments are made.  AC-Delco has a nice replacement which comes
with a new piece of vacuum hose, a new green-coloured rod, as well as a
pretty box, all for about $35 Cdn (a couple of years ago).  I recently
installed a Canadian Tire unit on an '84 Cutlass, which cost $30 Cdn + 15%
tax.  Note that the aftermarket ones seem to only last 2 or 3 years; the
OEM parts are much more durable (10+ years).

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 23:36:08 -0500
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Re: Alternators

I have had similar problems in the past and it has always come down to an
alternator or wiring problem.  GM sizes the alternator/battery big enough
to handle all the loads.  (I grew up in Saskatchewan and have not had a
problem with a working system even at -40 with defrosters, heaters and
lights on).

Usually one of the leads on the two-pin connector melts or the wire from
the negative terminal of the battery to the chassis burns up because of a
poor ground connection on the big ground wire at the block or the regulator
goes bad.

You can get a tester for about $10 to test how much your alternator is
putting out and wether it is regulating.  It is like a compass that you put
over the wire.

The alternators are very easy to fix, you can get a kit at Canadian Tire
for under $20 contatining everything you need to rebuild it.  If you open
it up and find the commutator scored, I suggest you take it to an exchange
place.


>Is there any downside to upsizing an alternator? I notice that mine lets
>the dash lights dim noticably at night when idling if you have the rear
>defroster on along with the heater fan, etc. As soon as you pick up revs
>it ups it's output and things get brighter. Maybe it's dying, I dunno, but
>I was thinking I might want to replace it with an 80 amp one. Are there
>any problems associated with this?
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada



Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 03:00:02 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 69 442

> The last time I checked, Y-1 did not carry the cable for the '69.  (Cat No
> R325 and a phone call last year.)  Their coverage is 70 - 72.

Yes, but is the SHIFTER from a 68/69 H/O or is it from a 70-72?  Could
make a difference.  Doesn't really matter about the year of the car.  I
know the dual gate in 69 was only offered in the H/O for Olds Cutlass
bodies.

- --
Mike Rothe
69 H/O
71 442 HT
85 442 T-top
76 GMC 1/2 ton, 502 c.i.

http://pages.prodigy.net/mrothe/rocket.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 97 18:31:20 PST
From: "Luke Hogan" <hogan442@c-gate.net>
Subject: Re: "84 Hurst Wheel

   Howard  StocktonWheel Service can fix it. 648 W.Fremont St.   Stockton,
CA. 95203   Ph.ª 1800-395-9433        I hope this helps, Good Luck ,  Luke

- ----------
> I'm in search of a "Super Stock Chrome" wheel for my '84 Hurst. At least
> that's the nomenclature used in my manual.
> Basically this is the original 15" chrome wheel with the red stripe on the
> outer edge of the rim. Same wheel I beleive is on the '83 Hurst. If
anybody
> has one or a lead on one, or does anyone know if and where they can be
> straightened (mine is out of round) please let me know.
> Thanks and Happy Holidays to all!
>
>
>       ___   ___ ___
>      /  /  /  //  /
>     /  /__/  //  /
>    /  HURST //  /
>   /  /  /  //  /_______
>  /__/  /__//  //  ___  \
>           /  //  /   \  \
>          /  //  /OLDS/  /
>         /  / \  \___/  /
>        /__/   \_______/
>
>   Howard Hosenbold
>   howardh@magicnet.net
>   1984 Hurst Olds
>   Production ª 2748
>   OCA ª 024551
>   HOCA ª 1259
>   OCF ª 24551

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 07:57:12 -0500
From: Joseph Gambaccini <jgambaccini@ci.richmond.va.us>
Subject: subscribe oldsmobile

subscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 02:30:38 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Plaque ª1971!

 >Greg Beaulieu  wrote:
<As it is, I got ª2003 and he gets ª1945. No matter, they are beautiful
items. I also got a
>centennial beer mug in the order along with a shirt and a lapel pin and
nice memories of Lansing in August.>


"and nice memories of Lansing in August"

...that says it all for me baby!....I wish I had realized the significance
of the Olds centennial celebration.  oH well at least I was fortunate enough
to attend.

I agree, no video can make-up for the experience!  Hope they celebrate as
much on the Olds' 150 birthday!

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 07:16:20 -0600
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: 85 Cutlass with duals?

I am looking at replacing my stock exhaust.  (Rust is forcing the issue)


Is the work to make it true duals worth it?  How much hp can I gain from
replacing a stock 2 in single system to a dual 2.25 to 2.5 in after the
cat?  I am not in an emissions area, so I could get away with axing the
cat, but this is not my initial plan.

The exhaust now is 2 in and wrinkle bent, so it is VERY restrictive.  I
check my cat, it is clean, the car still cannot do over 70 mph in 2nd.
(yes, that is about 3500 rpm!!) 3rd I have taken it to 85, but she is
getting close to maxed out then.  I have 2.14 gears and a THM200C.

Someone said something about modifying a 74-older crossmember to work
with the 85.  I have never seen one, is this a lot of work?

For the people with older Cutlass's, how is the car for mileage with the
3.23 gears or similar (3.08-3.73)?  I am looking at swapping.  The Olds
service manual lists a THM200C car option with 3.23 gears.  Should run
good, but just what sort of rpm will I run with stock tires?  (25.5 inch
tall)

Thanks!
Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 08:32:41 -0500
From: Joseph Gambaccini <jgambaccini@ci.richmond.va.us>
Subject: '71 W-30 on Speedvision!!!

did anyone see the old test (motor trend maybe?) of the '71 W-30
convertible last night???  unfortunately, i was about to have dinner
with my girlfriend's family so i only got to see part of it.  the car
was light green with darker green stripes and interior (no sport
wheel).  from what i could hear over my girlfriend's noisy nieces, the
car did 0-50 in 4.9, 0-70 in 7.3, braked 50-0 in 83 ft (???) and 70-0 in
191 ft.  also, the narrator was impressed with the car in the slalom.

of course after seeing THAT, i couldn't relate to anybody at the dinner
table.  it's strange how these cars affect some people in strange ways.

did anyone else see this and maybe recorded it???

------------------------------

Date: 23 Dec 1997 09:02:42 EDT
From: Wyatt@jobax.net
Subject: '71 W-30 on Speedvision!!!

OL>did anyone see the old test (motor trend maybe?) of the '71 W-30
What you saw was probably the old Car and Track show that Speedvision is
re-running.
They have racing action and a road test or two on each show.  It comes
on each week night at 5:30 pm eastern time.  The wife shanghied me for
Xmas shopping and I missed
that episode.  I did catch one last week with a '71 Olds 88 road test.
Also, last week the Sundance channel had a movie on called, "I Shot a
Man in Vegas".   90% of the movie took place inside a '56 Olds.  It will
be on again the 24th at 7:30 pm EST and the 31st at 3:30 am EST.

Dave (off work with a herniated disk) Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 08:15:25 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Auction (Re: question   about  tenn..)

Chris,

I have a friend who deals heavily in collectible cars who said that auctions
are always unique.  One never knows what the rules may be nor the quality of
the cars compared to prices.  He wasn't surprised, but he was disappointed.
He bought nothing.  He felt that one just takes a chance and hopes for
something worth buying no matter what the conditions of the sale.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible




>Shouldn't these idiots think of offering the landowner first choice, rather
>than have all these people bidding on the cars, to possibly not get
them?....
>Seems kinda ass-backwards to me.
>
>Chris Ruper
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 10:20:38 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: 85 Cutlass with duals?

Thomas Martin wrote:
>
> I am looking at replacing my stock exhaust.  (Rust is forcing the issue)

The quietness is forcing me...  It's got such a good system on there
now, you can't hear it... :(

> Is the work to make it true duals worth it?  How much hp can I gain from
> replacing a stock 2 in single system to a dual 2.25 to 2.5 in after the
> cat?  I am not in an emissions area, so I could get away with axing the
> cat, but this is not my initial plan.

I am looking into installing Flowmaster Hi-Flo Cats vs nothing...  It's
not 1998 I am planning for, it's further down the line I am waiting for
:(  South Carolina has no form of inspection, or emissions testing, yet,
but I have heard talk in my area of test running emissions testing
equipment :(.  So, I'll stick two (one on each side) to be safe.

> For the people with older Cutlass's, how is the car for mileage with the
> 3.23 gears or similar (3.08-3.73)?  I am looking at swapping.  The Olds
> service manual lists a THM200C car option with 3.23 gears.  Should run
> good, but just what sort of rpm will I run with stock tires?  (25.5 inch
> tall)

Couldn't even tell ya, but I am all eyes on this one...  I am actually
thinking of dropping the 200C I've got and throwing a 350, or a 400 back
in.  Plans for a 403 in the works.
- --
                 Jerry Christopher
     ___        HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
 ___/.o \__,      1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
_=O------O=__________It ain't my father's Oldsmobile_______

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 97 09:20:32 CST
From: James_L_Smith_at_mobile@TGPL.TWC.COM
Subject: 65 370hp 425

     I have found a complete drivetrain out of a 65 jetstar or something
     like that. The owner has put me in a difficult position of making him
     an offer. I want this engine and I want it cheap.What do the listers
     in the know think about this.

     Another question I need an answer for is concerning the correct
     mounting position of the neg batt terminal to the engine for a 65 442.
     Mr 4C could answer this in his sleep. R  u out there Ron?


     Jim Smith
     65 442

     floydfan@wiltel.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 12:13:46 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 65 370hp 425

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:James_L_Smith_at_mobile@TGPL.TWC.COM
Subject: 65 370hp 425

     I have found a complete drivetrain out of a 65 jetstar or something
     like that. The owner has put me in a difficult position of making him
     an offer. I want this engine and I want it cheap.What do the listers
     in the know think about this.

     Another question I need an answer for is concerning the correct
     mounting position of the neg batt terminal to the engine for a 65 442.
     Mr 4C could answer this in his sleep. R  u out there Ron?


     Jim Smith
     65 442

     floydfan@wiltel.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 10:27:43 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: alternator

Is there any downside to upsizing an alternator? I notice that mine lets
the dash lights dim noticably at night when idling if you have the rear
defroster on along with the heater fan, etc. As soon as you pick up revs
it ups it's output and things get brighter. Maybe it's dying, I dunno, but I
was thinking I might want to replace it with an 80 amp one. Are there any
problems associated with this?

Greg Beaulieu
- ---------
The parts guy mentioned there were different belts for the 63 and 80 Amp
alternators when I bought the belt this weekend. I don't see any problem with
upgrading the amperage capacity. There's only two leads off the starter for
power, both leads use 16 Amp fusible links. Maybe the output lead from alt to
battery is a larger guage.

Probably the A/C and defogger cars got the 80 Amp alt. standard.

Check and clean the connections, especially the blower motor. I was suprised
that the motor grounded at all with all the crud under the grounding
terminal. Take care of the inline high speed connector too.
- --
David Brown              Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com      OR     http://www.en.com/users/thall
    http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
  http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/zip/oldsfaq4.zip

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 11:19:50 -0500
From: "James W. Oliver" <oliver@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: '83 Cutlass Supreme, 305CC

I have a 1983 Cutlass that has a few problems, nothing serious in my
mind but one, needs new brakes, power steering pump and gear box should
be replaced, gas tank leaks if filled, so it should be replaced. The
main problem is the body rust, with these hockey puck shaped rubber
bumpers that fit between the frame and body in the rear of the car,
having rusted and fallen out. So the rear end occansionally bangs when
driving.

I am curious if anyone could help with a couple of questions. One is I
would like to know how to determine the value of the car. I know what
the NADA is for the car, but not for one in a rusted condition or with
the other "minor" problems. Also, I am curious if anyone could give me
an idea how difficult it is to replace the bumpers and do the body work.
I must admit my skill with auto repair is limited to simple tasks like
replacing the cruise master. Could anyone recommend any books on how to
do body work on a car where the problem is rust. The car has never been
in an accident.  I am trying to decide if I am willing to put the money
into the car to repair or what I want to do with it.

Jim Oliver

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 11:26:58 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: MI swap meet

- -----Original Message-----
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, December 22, 1997 11:16 PM
Subject: Re: MI swap meet


> I'll take dibbs on first 69 sport steering wheel though.
>P.S. -have any ideas where one available at reasonable $$
>         would consider trade of 70 sport wheel & cash.

If you find one, please find out how the horn contact pin is held in
the hole in the wheel, how it is wired in etc.
I can honk my horn by dropping the pin in the hole, (small end first),
and then grounding it to the side of the hole. I can not figure out
how to keep it there, stop it from grounding by leaning over, or how
to wire it to the horn contacts in the three spokes.
Would greatly appreciate any advice anyone can give.
My time in high school Electrical Shop was usually spent cutting out
paper dolls at the back of the room, as punishment  for not learning
"Ohm's Law', or for deliberately trying to electricute fellow
students.

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S convertible
OCAª 29770
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 10:45:19 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Vacuum Breaks

I suspect I have a problem with the choke vacuum break on the Delta. When
you start it from cold, it catches readily enough, but will chug for a
few seconds until something (vacuum I suspect) takes over and then it
settles into a fast idle.

Greg Beaulieu
- ----------
Aren't 4 barrels twice the fun? Fade to doublemint gum commercial. :) I've
found the rear most break (low on the carb) is the one that will give you the
most trouble, and the chugging is a classic symptom. For a nice price on a
vacuum pump, I stumbled across the plastic bodied Mity-Vac at Wal-Mart for
around $25 US. The aluminum body of the same thing is nicer, but pricier, but
I think I can keep this one in good shape. They also carry a selection of
Delco brand auto specialty tools.

I found out this weekend that my Delta's carb was binding between the
secondary top valve and the carb horn - it wouldn't close all the way, but
stay open just a tiny bit. This was letting extra air in, not allowing the
cold idle to cut down. I was also fighting with very sensitive choke
adjustments. There really wasn't that much wear in the shaft either. All of
this also wasn't allowing the front most break to work.
- --
David Brown              Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com      OR     http://www.en.com/users/thall
    http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
  http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/zip/oldsfaq4.zip

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 11:40:00 -0500 (EST)
From: The Sugarmans <sugarman@berkshire.net>
Subject: Vacuum diagrams

JK,

I have an '82 shop manual - vacuum lines are shown on many different
pages.

How anxious are you for this info and do you have a FAX, which may be
easier for me than scanning (I haven't used my scanner since upgrading to
Windows '95.), or I can copy and snail mail next week.

Don Sugarman

sugarman@berkshire.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 11:42:39 -0500 (EST)
From: The Sugarmans <sugarman@berkshire.net>
Subject: Re: 69 442

On Mon, 22 Dec 1997, AARONLIFE wrote:

>
> Good news about Hurst, because I think it's actually worn.  It moves back and
> forth, sloppy play, like my steering wheel :), without even affecting the
> linkage, so when it does pull the cable, it's already lost a good deal of
> leverage/travel distance.
>

Aaron,
Good news on the Hurst shifter and cable front.  I've got a '69 shifter
and cable from a GTO that should fit same as Olds.  Shifter is nice and
tight.

Make an offer.  ;-)

Dad

sugarman@berkshire.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 10:38:32 -0600
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: need keys!

Or, just go to a dealer and they CAN (not necessarily WILL) look up the
original key codes on the car and make a new set for you.  Sure, they
may charge $20, but it would be worth the hassle!

My wife went through this with a dealer.  It was not the dealer who sold
the car (they did not sell it originally) and asked them to make her
keys (she locked them in the car).  They gave the run around (Chevy
dealer....) so she called the 800 number for corp.  They called the
dealer back, stayed on the line and had her talk.  They were rude to
her, so they jumped in, and MADE them look up the codes and make her a
new set.  Amazing, it was free then.......

Give the dealer a shout, be nice, and they CAN look up what the original
keys were in the car.  Now, this will probably be in microfilm or paper,
so it can take them a while.

Good Luck!!

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 12:09:06 -0500 (EST)
From: ar713@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Linda Zuccaro)
Subject: Re: '92 Achieva

Anyone have the electrical schematics for this car or know where
to find them?  Still having problems with the oil light/check
gauges light being on.  Sensor change made no difference.

Are there two oil sensors?

The door that won't unlock seems to be the motor [crosses fingers].

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 11:01:37 -0700
From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Subject: White Window Cranks

Hi Gang,

Does anyone have some white window cranks for a '68 Cutlass/442 that they'd
like to part with?  I've discovered that I am don't have enough to finish
my interior.

Thanks,
Bob
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         mailto://rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 13:46:36 EST
From: RCKTPWR <RCKTPWR@aol.com>
Subject: Re: '71 W-30 on Speedvision!!!

the name of the show is called "Car and Track" i saw the same episode about 3
wks ago.  I have comcast cablevision, and its on at 5:30pm.  They also have
vintage NASCAR races. Its a very cool show.
Bernie
Cranford NJ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 14:08:25 EST
From: R4C442 <R4C442@aol.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: 65 370hp 425

Hey there Jim!
     Fraid I can't help you on the worth of that drivetrain combo but it will
definitely fit in your 442. As to the negative terminal, it is secured by the
9/16 bolt which is on the   block directly below the letter "A" on the left
head.
                                                               Merry Christmas
!
                                                               Ron Forsee
                                                               65 442-Meister

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 14:29:32 -0500
From: "Robert T. Handren, Jr." <bobhandren@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Happy Holidays

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BD0FAF.2FB18B20
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I'm back to at least the level lurking on the list a bit more lately.  =
Glad to see things are as lively as ever.

Just wanted to extend Greetings of the Holiday Season to one and all on =
the Olds list from me, Cheryl and of course our favorite cars all =
snuggled in the garage waiting to see what Santa will bring. Hey, I can =
hope can't I? They've been very good cars this year and deserve =
something.  ;-)

Merry Christmas       Happy New Year        Happy Hanukka           =
Happy Kwansa

Hope I didn't leave anyone out.

Bob Handren

- ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BD0FAF.2FB18B20
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3Dªffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 size=3D2>I'm back to at least the level =
lurking on the=20
list a bit more lately.&nbsp; Glad to see things are as lively as=20
ever.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 size=3D2>Just wanted to extend Greetings of =
the Holiday=20
Season to one and all on the Olds list from me, Cheryl and of course our =

favorite cars all snuggled in the garage waiting to see what Santa will =
bring.=20
Hey, I can hope can't I? They've been very good cars this year and =
deserve=20
something.&nbsp; ;-)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 size=3D2>Merry=20
Christmas&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Happy New=20
Year&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Happy=20
Hanukka&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Happy=20
Kwansa</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 size=3D2>Hope I didn't leave anyone =
out.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Bob Handren</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BD0FAF.2FB18B20--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 11:54:33 PST
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: SUBSCRIBE

Please, please, please, please, please, please, please, please,
please, please, please, please, please, please, please, please,
renew my subscription to the list. It's been two weeks and I need the
fix.

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 97 15:10:22 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: '83 Cutlass Supreme, 305CC

I have a 1983 Cutlass that has a few problems...needs new brakes...power
steering pump...gear box should be replaced...gas tank leaks...body
rust...the rear end occansionally bangs when driving.

     Uh, does this car answer to the name of "Lucky"?  ;-)

     Seriously, if you plan to do anything to the car, you'll spend
     significantly more repairing it than it will be worth.  More
     importantly, you can certainly find an equivalent car with no rust for
     less money than it will cost to repair the one you have.  In terms of
     economics, it doesn't make sense to pour more money into a car with
     that much rust.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 12:31:35 -0800 (PST)
From: Edwin Burger <erb22@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: '70 442 H*lp

> I'm prepping my 70 442 for paint, and I noticed that the body piece
> between the two sections of the grille needs to be replaced.
>
>      Do you mean the tongue on the front of the hood, which is
>      perfectly designed to allow you to impale your skull every time
>      you do something under the hood?

I'm not sure how it connects.  The car was apart when I bought it, and
the piece was in a box of parts.  I had assumed it was attached
somehow between the grille pieces, but i could see how it could be
attached to the hood also.  It's the piece with the 442 logo on it....

> I imagine it does have to come froma 442 though, so the 442 holes for
> the 442 emblem will like up.
>
>      Actually, they are all the same.  This is a pot metal cast part
>      and the indentations for the "442" emblem holes are cast into
>      the back.  If you get one off of a non-442, you simply need to
>      drill out the holes.

That makes things easier.... there was no logo of any sort on the
Cutlasses?

Ed
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 97 16:19:42 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: UNBOUNCE: '70 442 H*lp

>      Do you mean the tongue on the front of the hood,...

I'm not sure how it connects.  The car was apart when I bought it, and
the piece was in a box of parts.  I had assumed it was attached
somehow between the grille pieces, but i could see how it could be
attached to the hood also.  It's the piece with the 442 logo on it....

     Yes, that part attaches to the front edge of the hood.  The lip on the
     hood has a flange which should have some clip nuts on it.  If the clip
     nuts are missing, replacements are available.  Bolts go in from the
     bottom side of the flange.  In addition, the two "L" shaped chrome
     pieces on the front of the hood bolt to both the tongue and the
     leading edge of the hood.

>      ...If you get one off of a non-442, you simply need to
>      drill out the holes.

That makes things easier.... there was no logo of any sort on the
Cutlasses?

     Nope.  Only on the 442s that year.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 16:10:52 -0500
From: Joseph Gambaccini <jgambaccini@ci.richmond.va.us>
Subject: unsubscribe oldsmobile

unsubscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 15:47:49 -0600
From: "Dave Rench" <renchd@krause.com>
Subject: Re: Re[2]: UNBOUNCE: '70 442 H*lp

The tongue on my '70 W-31 has the "S" metal logo on it, presumably
representing the Cutlass "S" model.  I am guessing that Supremes have their
own logo as well.

- ----------
> From: Padavano.Joe <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re[2]: UNBOUNCE: '70 442 H*lp
> Date: Tuesday, December 23, 1997 3:19 PM
>
>
> >      Do you mean the tongue on the front of the hood,...
>
> I'm not sure how it connects.  The car was apart when I bought it, and
> the piece was in a box of parts.  I had assumed it was attached
> somehow between the grille pieces, but i could see how it could be
> attached to the hood also.  It's the piece with the 442 logo on it....
>
>      Yes, that part attaches to the front edge of the hood.  The lip on
the
>      hood has a flange which should have some clip nuts on it.  If the
clip
>      nuts are missing, replacements are available.  Bolts go in from the
>      bottom side of the flange.  In addition, the two "L" shaped chrome
>      pieces on the front of the hood bolt to both the tongue and the
>      leading edge of the hood.
>
> >      ...If you get one off of a non-442, you simply need to
> >      drill out the holes.
>
> That makes things easier.... there was no logo of any sort on the
> Cutlasses?
>
>      Nope.  Only on the 442s that year.
>
>      Joe Padavano
>      padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>      66 442
>      68 W-30
>      69 H/O
>      70 W-30
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 13:47:34 -0800
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Re: Montana Land Speed Record?

>Well in California he just might.  I talked to an officer one day
>and asked how fast his cruiser would go and he told me 160.  I asked
>how was that possible and he said he had a corvette engine and a I
>think a 6 speed.
>
A couple of years ago I got pulled over in San Diego on my scooter.  I was
doing 105 and when I pulled over the cop thanked me for pulling over
because his bike wouldn't go any faster than that.  It was the Kawasaki
1000 and with the big windshield and extra gear they top out at around 105.
 The Mustangs however is a different story from what I hear.

Since I was nice enough to stop, the cop only wrote me up for 75 so that I
could go to traffic school and he could use it against his ticket quota for
the month.

Still no word on my VC's rear end.  The service station says that they are
still looking for an axle for it.  Does anyone have a good source for axles
for me to give to the service station?

Erik Nowacki
San Diego
72 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 16:55:52 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: '83 Cutlass Supreme, 305CC

Padavano.Joe wrote:
>
> I have a 1983 Cutlass that has a few problems...needs new brakes...power
> steering pump...gear box should be replaced...gas tank leaks...body
> rust...the rear end occansionally bangs when driving.
>
>      Uh, does this car answer to the name of "Lucky"?  ;-)
>
>      Seriously, if you plan to do anything to the car, you'll spend
>      significantly more repairing it than it will be worth.  More
>      importantly, you can certainly find an equivalent car with no rust for
>      less money than it will cost to repair the one you have.  In terms of
>      economics, it doesn't make sense to pour more money into a car with
>      that much rust.

Depends on the reasons for keeping the car though...  Yeah, it doesn't
sound econimcally worth it, but if the car has some value to someone, it
might be worth it (after all, if noone was interested, the 60's 442s
woulda rusted out by now <G>)  Now, on the other hand, if it's just for
getting back and forth to work, I'd tend to agree...  With a serious
amount of rust, I'd say look around for the panels that need replaced at
bone yards, then gauge your choice against that...  If you can do it
cheaply, do it...  If you can do it with (shudder) Bondo, at this stage
in the G-Body life, it's worth it.  It's still too young to sink big
money into it to restore.  Hey, if you are looking to learn body work,
there's your project car!!! Good luck either way
- --
                 Jerry Christopher
     ___        HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
 ___/.o \__,      1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
_=O------O=__________It ain't my father's Oldsmobile_______

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 18:00:57 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: White Window Cranks

On Tue, 23 Dec 1997, Robert J. Lavey wrote:
> Does anyone have some white window cranks for a '68 Cutlass/442 that they'd
> like to part with?  I've discovered that I am don't have enough to finish
> my interior.

Did they actually make these with white knobs? I've never seen them. You
don't mean clear, do you? I know those are available as a "H*LP" part. I
suppose GM might have made white ones since I've seen them in other
colors...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 16:57:59 EST
From: DR OLDS350 <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: 1970 Trunk Mat

Does anyone have a trunk mat for a 1970 Cutlass/442 that is in good shape and
would be willing to part with it? I am pretty sure it's the black and aqua
mat. Does anybody know of a place that makes reproductions of the original
trunk mat.

Jim/drolds350@aol.com
70 Cutlass W31
70 Rallye 350
See them at: http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 18:10:17 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: '83 Cutlass Supreme, 305CC

On one hand you could say that the problems are more costly to fix than
the car is worth. OTOH, if it was a '60s Cutlass for example, none of
those things would prevent you from buying it and restoring the thing.
I'm always nervous about saying you could buy another car that doesn't
have problems, because if you're buying a 10 or 15 year-old car, it could
have any number of other hidden problems. At least with this one you know
what you're dealing with.

The point is that they aren't making these anymore, so maybe it's
worthwhile to put some money into it and take care of it. The body mounts
are a common problem with these. Make sure the frame is OK before going
any further with it. They are notorious for letting go around the area of
the rear body mount. Up here frame repairs on these things are very
commonly done, though I dunno how pricey it would be.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 18:17:17 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 1970 Trunk Mat

Didn't they use that gray-green fuzzy material for '70 trunk mats? I
thought the black/aqua rubber was last used in '69 or so.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 17:06:14 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 69 442

In a message dated 97-12-23 15:31:38 EST, you write:

<< Aaron,
 Good news on the Hurst shifter and cable front.  I've got a '69 shifter
 and cable from a GTO that should fit same as Olds.  Shifter is nice and
 tight.

 Make an offer.  ;-)

 Dad >>

For real?!

Gary said he didn't know if he could fix it.  He could make it look amazing,
but he said there's a lot of rust hiding under there, and you can't weld rust
to rust.  Can't be truly fixed.  He could take the back end off a solid
souther car, but he'd need to be able to weld it to something.

Wrote an estimate for $5100, thought they might try to total the car.

British guy said once the insurance co agrees to fix it, they don't balk when
the price goes up because it's already apart and thousands are already spent.

My feeling is, how can you replace a one of a kind car :)

Aaron

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 16:26:33 -0600
From: "babbott@pdnt.com" <babbott@pdnt.com>
Subject: Does anybody know Opus Yeager?

His Cutlass was in hot rod and I want to know more about his parts combo

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 17:27:17 EST
From: KS7RACING <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: possible exhaust manifold setup

Ladies and Gents,

First let me wish all of you a wonderful holiday season from all of us here at
Ken Snyder Racing!

I have noticed several posts regarding exhaust manifolds for small block
Oldsmobiles. We went looking for some help in this area in 1994 when we were
racing our 71 Cutlass 'S' in the Street Stock division at our local asphalt
short tracks. We eventually found that we could use the passenger side
manifold off of a late 70's Toronado (probably with a 403, but I bet they're
all the same in those years) on our car.

It doesn't have a crossover and points back at the same angle as the firewall
does down there. It does have a kink in it that goes over the oil filter
adapter, but it seemed better than the usual stock small-block unit.

Speaking of the oil filter adapter, you will need to get that with the
manifold, as this design will not work with the typical one. We ended up using
one from a donor 425 Toronado engine we got from a friend, and it fit just
right. And you will find that the large diameter oil filter won't work, but
the one for later model Olds diesels will. If you're going to go with a remote
filter, then you'll have no trouble.

Our rules said we had to use stock exhaust manifolds, just didn't say that
they had to come on the particular car we raced. Oh well..........

I don't know about if any other years or models can use this setup or not.

Best wishes,
Ken Snyder

http://www.chasinracin.com/racers/ksr7
http://members.aol.com/aqwiring

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª1025
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