To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1007


oldsmobile-digest     Saturday, December 13 1997     Volume 01 : Number 1007



RE: One that got away, one that didn't
Re: 455 build up on budget again
Re: Olds & Youth(long)
Tires & such
Re: sounds (my take on the subject)
Re: Quad 4 performance
Re: Peeling Out
To Frame Off or not to frame off
Re: The one that got away
Re: The one that got away
Re: To Frame Off or not to frame off
Olds List Lansing Video Update (Long)
Re: Olds & Youth
Re: Are these SSIIIs something special?
442 Pwr Steering Box in a CS
harmonic balancers
Re: Tires & such
My first car (almost)
Re: sounds (my take on the subject)
Non-AC pan on an AC firewall
ADMIN: Quad 4 Flames
Parts Needed...
Alpha-One Olds stuff...
Re: Funny story
Re: Olds List Lansing Video Update (Long)
Re: Painting
Valve Train Blues
Cheesy paint jobs from hell...
Re: To Frame Off or not to frame off
Re: New England Power Tour
Re: 442 Pwr Steering Box in a CS
Off the list for a while
Re: Tires & such
Cork Vs. Rubber ?
Bad break booster blues
Re: Cheesy paint jobs from hell...
Re: Are these SSIIIs something special?
Re: ISP Problems
More on '69 parts car
Re: harmonic balancers
OCA Web Site Found In Italy ! (or 88 Diesel F/S)
RE: Valve Train Blues
Re: Bad break booster blues
Re: Bad break booster blues
1968 Delta 88 F/S (TX)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 15:46:00 -0500
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: One that got away, one that didn't

I'm glad I jogged that part of your memory for you. I'll keep this in
mind when I need that exotic intake.....or am I wishing for to much..

Fernando Proietto
A/Manager
Systems Analyst - Informatics Division
Environment Canada
Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
4905 Dufferin St.
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: padavano.joe[SMTP:padavano.joe@Orbital.COM]
> Sent: Thursday, December 11, 1997 10:53 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: One that got away, one that didn't
>
>
>      Someone (Fernando?) mentioned going to look at an intake and
> finding a
>      69 H/O.  This jogged two memories, one that got away and one that
>
>      didn't.
>
>      The one that got away was actually an intake manifold.  Regular
>      readers will recall that I've got an exotic intake manifold
> fetish,
>      which currently includes (all for a big block) a factory 2x4
> cross
>      ram, a factory 4x2 Weber, an Algon "calliope stack" fuel
> injection
>      setup, a 66 tri-power, the 69 H/O intake, and the commonplace
> (well,
>      compared to the others) W-30 intake.  The one that got away was
>      offered for sale at the Pomona swap meet about 12 years ago.  It
> was a
>      6-71 blower manifold for a big block Olds produced by Sharp.
> Asking
>      price was something like $200, and I passed on it.  I later found
> out
>      that this is the type of intake used on the Hurst Hairy Olds
> funny
>      car!  I don't know how many were cast, or if this particular one
> came
>      from the HHO, but now I wish I'd grabbed it.  I'm going to need
> two of
>      those when I build my reproduction HHO ;-)
>
>      The one that didn't get away was my 68 W-30.  I've told this
> story
>      before, so briefly, the add said "69 442 body for sale, Hurst
> front
>      end, $400".  Needing parts for my 69 H/O, and obviously curious
> about
>      this "Hurst front end", I went to look at it, finding instead a
>      trashed 68 442 with the engine and trans removed and ready to
> install
>      in the seller's 56 Ford F-100.  Turning to leave, I lifted the
> hood on
>      the 68, only to find red fenderwells and O.A.I. ducts!  It took
> about
>      an hour to talk the seller into selling me the complete car (with
>
>      engine and trans) for $800.
>
>      Joe Padavano
>      padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>      66 442
>      68 W-30
>      69 H/O
>      70 W-30
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 15:47:11 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 455 build up on budget again

>the 307 carb is freshly rebuilt and in great shape.  You say I can use
>both, so what is the difference in flow.  If the 455 one is better, I am
>willing to rebuild it.  The 307 carb has emisions hook-up and I am not sure
>about the 455 carb.  As I mentioned earlier, I don't need any emission
>control crap on so what can I do to reduce as much of it as posible to gain
>more power (carb and overall engine emmisions)?  Should I consider getting
>a different carb?

You'd have to rejet the 307's carb; if it's not computer-controlled, you
could use the jets and rods from your 455's carb (as long as the carb ª
begins 170xxxxx; otherwise you'd have to use different primary rods), and
be close to optimal.

>Also, I would be looking to shave a bit more then 2 sec of 0-60 (as it
>sucks now), so should I go higher rear end then the 2:73 (not as high as
>4:10 but maybe 3:23, 3:43 or not higher then 3:73), and/or a shift kit?.
>Will it be worth the money?
>
>Also, mentined by somebody else, 1976 Deltas with a tow package came with a
>3:23 rear end.  My does not have that but rather 2:73(both Deltas).   Do
>you know what other cars,   1977 and up  came with a tow package with such
>a rear end or higher.  I would rather replace the entire rear-end with a
>higher gears from say a Cust. Cruiser then just change the gears.  My rear
>is a 10-bolt posi, so equalent would be needed.

Watch out with the later 10-bolts, which were 7.5". It would be best to
swap in the full housing, if that is possible, but the carrier you have in
there will accept the higher-numbered gears, so if you can't find the right
housing (they're not that plentiful with that gear), then swapping the
gearset may be your best bet.

I'd say, though, that the 2.73 would be more than enough gear with the 455.
If you got 300hp from that 455 (not difficult at all), your '81 will really
move. It will be light-years ahead of your 140hp 307, that's for sure!
Wheelspin will be your primary limitation.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 15:41:19 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Olds & Youth(long)

>     My first car was a 72 Cutlass Supreme.I bought the car when i was 15

My first car was my just-registered SX, which I bought at age 16, the
summer before my senior year of high-school, for $500. At that time (1983),
the '70-'72 Cutlasses/Supremes were *very* common; I'd pass about six in
any given day. It seemed like $1800 was the going price for a *real*
musclecar those days (442's, SS's, GTO's, though the goats were starting to
climb in vlaue), but $500 was my limit. I had looked at a green 4-door '76
Malibu <ugh! it was a family friend's>, but luckily the front seat mounts
rusted out so the front bench turned into a "semi-recliner" upon any kind
of acceleration; definitely not worth the $500 asking price. I also was
tempted by a rust-free '67 Tempest with the 326, and had dreams of swapping
in a 455, but it was going for $1300, which was also beyond my limit.

I was really pleased to get my SX for $500. It had a blown head-gasket, so
I planned to set aside an October weekend to change that gasket, and add a
set of headers and a 4-bbl intake and carb (it was originally a 2-bbl), was
well as replace the rotting exhaust with some flex-pipe and some "Sonic
Turbo" mufflers (the hot setup of the day). Well, one problem led to
another, and I ended up hitching a ride with a friend for a month while I
buttoned that thing back up (he still doesn't let me forget that, either...
"Just a weekend, Bob, huh???")

There were not many hot cars at my school. My friend giving me a ride in
had one of the nicer rides (at the time), a silver '82 T/A with the
4-bbl/4-speed combination. His status as having the nicest "new" car was
trumped when another friend of ours had his daddy buy him a '84 T/A with
the high-output 190hp 305/5-speed powertrain. He promptly set about
"improving" the car with a non-computer carb, dash-adjusted timing control,
and some other nonsense. He ended up making it *slower* than my buddy's '82
T/A (who granny-shifted past the other guy in an impromptu
street-acceleration contest... ;).

Of course, those were not the *hottest* cars; that right was reserved for
the older musclecars, which I had one of. The only real musclecars at our
school were my SX, a '70 Cuda with a 340 (originally a Hemi car, but the
engine was taken out ages before for drag use), and a '70 Chevelle SS clone
with a 350/Powerglide transmission. My SX had the cubes and the reputation,
but definitely not the looks, of being the hottest car at school. We never
ended up testing this reputation out, as the Cuda owner kept a low-profile,
and the SS owner talked a lot of trash, but I didn't feel the need to waste
my time or gas trying to prove anything (after all, this was a rather
smarmy fellow who claimed his car was an "original SS350", but when it was
pointed out that Chevy didn't make these until 1972, he started claiming
his was a "Canadian Model". He also thought you measured engine
displacement by dropping the block into a vat of water and measuring how
much it rose <seriously>. He was seriously discredited when midway through
the year his "mint, rust-free" Chevelle got hit lightly in the rear
quarter, and the bondo cracked all the way from the rear bumper to the rear
window... At least you could *see* the rust on my car!). Aside from that,
the only other interesting cars on campus were a '53 Chevy (nice condition-
interesting just for being old, but slow as a dog), and my friend's
primer-black semi-custom Chevy van (great for friday-night adventures with
a group of people, or just to borrow for a date...). A guy two years ahead
of me had a '66 GS400, but out of the graduating class before me, the most
interesting thing (according to popular estimation) was a late-70's Celica
with a 5-speed (it was a *bleak* year...).

At a nearby high-school some of my friends went to, there wasn't much
interesting either. My friends were hot-rodders, though, and had probably
the most interesting cars. One had a '65 Mustang GT that was completely
gone over and Shelby-ized; he still has the car, but it's much slower than
his later '86 SVO or '89 Saleen. Another friend had a '67 Chevelle that he
had painted bright yellow, into which he put a built 350/4-speed. He ended
up slicing up the sidewalls of his L60's in the back, and damaging the rear
wheelwell lips, which revealed some rust/bondo that he hadn't fully taken
car of. I told him that G60's would have been enough... There was also a
'76 T/A that wasn't much to speak of, though; the guy's girlfriend was
reportedly a better driver than the guy himself, though.

Another hot car was a '71 Chevelle SS with a '70 LS6 and N-50's on Cragars
in the rear. I actually got a ride in this one time, as the friend with the
van was considering buying it (actually swapping it for a '31 Model A
street rod with a 327 Vette engine, which later got traded for the van; sad
story...). The cowl-induction hood was neat, and it was fast, but out of
our league in terms of price.

In the realm of legendary cars, though, there was an Olds that ruled: a '63
Olds 88 with a blown 455 owned by a guy known as "Milo" from Trumbull, CT.
Tubbed, with McCrearies, wheelie bars, full cage, hot stuff. It showed up
in a few magazines at the time (no features that I know of, though), but it
definitely had the reputation of being *the* fastest thing around.

I don't think that there was ever any time that the majority of high-school
age students drove around in brand-new GTO's and 442's. It seems that there
were always a few guys whose parents had somehow bought them a new "hot"
car (usually the wealthier folks), whatever was hot that year, and a few
guys willing to work on something a bit older, and struggling to have a
nice powertrain/exterior/interior-soundsystem (pick one of the three). The
real well-done, and real fast cars, were usually owned by people working
full-time, who had the money and space to really do up something right.

I am thankful that I was around when the cars with true potential were old
enough to be cheap, but still new enough to be plentiful and in decent
shape. The 13-year old Cutlass Supremes with a 307 that you find today for
$500 just don't have the same potential as the 13-year old Cutlass Supremes
of 1983, when they had the 350 or 455. Now, those earlier Supremes are
becoming collectible, and out of reach for the younger folk, though it's
still good to see people who will hunt them down and fix them up; it can be
done, it just requires more work.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 15:41:28 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Tires & such

O.K., so i got a set of 85-86 etc... 15x7 all chrome, black center wheels
to go on my 68 442 vertible, I want to know what size tire I should go
with, I'm kinda thinkin 235 60 15's, decent width, decent ride height, very
little speedo change, can I go meatier?

Lemmeknow!

Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv--Dallas

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 11:33:07 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: sounds (my take on the subject)

Shaun Miller wrote:
>
> jerry,
>
> im not so sure about the stereos in the new cars.  i got rid of mine
> because i live in new york and it saves on weight.  All of us just want
> to launch these pocket rockets.  Lets have one of these rice burners step
> up to me with their stereo, ill be the one that sounds good from the 7000
> rpms going through the flowmasters.  thats REAL sound for my ears, its
> also a sight for my eyes because hell be in my mirror.

It's actually funny that you mention this...  I have fun with them
too...  But I don't flant my motor, I flant my other electronical
equipment...  Up until I got the Cutlass, I had a Galaxy 66 with a Texas
Star 350 Linear (CB radio gear).  90% of the booming stereos are
affected in some way by this type of power! <G>  It was always funny to
roll up the windows, and crank the CB on and say "This is GOD talking,
turn that crap down"  used to work on early model cell. phones too....
It's a REAL laugh to see people looking around at the light!

- --
                 Jerry Christopher
     ___        HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
 ___/.o \__,      1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
_=O------O=__________It ain't my father's Oldsmobile_______

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 11:28:55 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: Quad 4 performance

Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com wrote:
>
> I didn't know if anyone was aware of this...the S2000 class spec racer uses
> Quad 4 motors exclusively...who says that 4banger don't go...ask the
> SCCA..they love Olds motors!

I know quite a few guys that run 4Cyl 2.3 Turbo Pintos draging...  On in
particular runs his in the high 8s, non bottle.  And then he drives it
home...  Unless he's got the 87 Ranger, it has a 2.3Turbo that pulls low
8s easy.  It's a NASTY ugly looking rusty truck, but MAN does it turn
heads at the track! I am in the process of making a drag Mustang II with
a 2.3 Turbo.  I also have a buddy that circle tracks an 82 Mustang in
the 4Cyl Modified class........  Don't need to say what 4Cyls can do, I
already know! <G>  I still like the WOT feel of an 8...  <G>

- --
                 Jerry Christopher
     ___        HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
 ___/.o \__,      1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
_=O------O=__________It ain't my father's Oldsmobile_______

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 22:27:47 -0600 (CST)
From: Jeremy Lloyd Elder <jelder1@bigred.unl.edu>
Subject: Re: Peeling Out

Not concerning a W-30, but I went through my first set of new tires
(all 4 were rotated til I hit cords) in less than 20,000 miles of
daily driving and around town.  Anyways, you can always replace
rubber, but the feeling you get behind a 455 is irreplaceable.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 23:28:12 EST
From: DR OLDS350 <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: To Frame Off or not to frame off

Olds List members:
I am in the process of restoring a 1970 Rallye 350. I would like to take the
body off. I have heard a couple people on the list say that it is fairly easy.
If I take off the body would I have to cut the floor and trunk pans? The car I
am redoing has no rust and is in pretty good shape. Is there really a need to
take off the body? If I take the body off it wouldn't be till early summer,
and I wouldn't be able to work on my car until the body is off. Is is really
neccasary to take the body off?

Jim

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 11:42:32 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: The one that got away

Jeff Stanish wrote:

> friends.  Let's just say Grandma was not known as "Leadfoot" for nothing!!
> (She's now 94 and still kickin'.)  We made the trip in no time!

When I was younger my Great Grandmother had a GTO, it was awesome, cause
it wasn't just any GTO, she rode in a Judge...  I don't remember too
much about it cause my Great Grandmother, and my Grand Father sold the
car after she was hit when I was 6.  Needless to say, I have always
loved the Judge...  Picute a 70 year old woman about 5'2" with a bright
orange Judge!!!  My dad also tells me that when he first learned how to
drive, my Grand Father was into the Car Sales biz...  He sold Pontiacs
in the mid-late 60s.  My dad and all my uncles got to play with my grand
fathers 62 Vette with a few mods (each one decided it needed something a
little different for better HP, my GF didn't want it touched)  It died
one evening courtsey of a gaurd rail and a girl messing with one of my
uncles!!!  (sigh)
- --
                 Jerry Christopher
     ___        HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
 ___/.o \__,      1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
_=O------O=__________It ain't my father's Oldsmobile_______

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 11:51:50 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: The one that got away

deirdre. reilly wrote:
>
> Well, since everyone else threw in there pennies, here's mine:
>
> Three years ago, summer of '94 I sold my Ch*vy Blazer and was looking for a
> G-body car, Monte, Grand Prix, Regal or Cutlass.  I came across this '83
> H/O for $3000.

Don't feel bad...  I was looking for the same thing about 2 months ago,
and dad agreed to co-sign on a loan from the bank upto $7000.  Figuring
I needed to keep things practical, I found the 87 Cutlass I have now for
$2...  2 Days after I bought it, looking thru the SAME Auto Trader I
found my 87 in, I saw an 86 442 all original with 50K on it... For
$4500...  Went to look at it, and cried on the way home...  I guess
there will be another 442 for sale when this one gets paid off...  Until
then...........
- --
                 Jerry Christopher
     ___        HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
 ___/.o \__,      1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
_=O------O=__________It ain't my father's Oldsmobile_______

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 00:55:49 -0500
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: To Frame Off or not to frame off

At 11:28 PM 12/12/97 EST, you wrote:
Jim

        Taking the body off the chassis is not real hard. Gut the interior,
and disconnect front harness at firewall, undo all other vacuum hoses and
such going to the inside of the car, disconnect the brakes at the master
cylinder, gas tank,  etc. Once that's all done there are about ten bolts
that hold the body on the chassis. The easiest way we have found to take the
body off is to take a engine hoist and attach it to the firewall and use
another one to lift the rear area of the body. Once it's up high enough to
clear the tires roll the chassis out from underneath the body. It's not
really bad. Don't be in a hurry and make sure ALL connections between the
body and the chassis are undone.

Jim Chermack

>Olds List members:
>I am in the process of restoring a 1970 Rallye 350. I would like to take the
>body off. I have heard a couple people on the list say that it is fairly easy.
>If I take off the body would I have to cut the floor and trunk pans? The car I
>am redoing has no rust and is in pretty good shape. Is there really a need to
>take off the body? If I take the body off it wouldn't be till early summer,
>and I wouldn't be able to work on my car until the body is off. Is is really
>neccasary to take the body off?
>
>Jim
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 00:02:24 -0600
From: dnewman@wcbi.com (Doug Newman)
Subject: Olds List Lansing Video Update (Long)

Hi folks,
              The upper portion of this post is for list members who were
around back in August when this project was first mentioned.  An explanation
for new members will follow...

Okay, due to work obligations, health problems, blah-blah, I haven't had any
"spare time"  to work on this video.  Lately I've MADE time, and it's
finally in the edit stage.  Everything is set to music, (16 car-related
tunes, old and not-so old) and it will run approx. 1 hour and 2 minutes,
give or take a few seconds.  No narration - I wanted to let the Olds
vehicles speak for themselves.  My apologies for not giving periodic updates
like I promised, but there really hasn't been anything to tell.  (I knew
this would be time consuming, so it's my own fault.  :-)  Please keep in
mind that this was recorded BY list members FOR list members.  (Some of you
folks who said you weren't professional photographers sold yourselves short
- - a majority of these shots are priceless.)  Cost will be $20.00 U.S., which
includes the cost of the tape and shipping.  I'll be working on this for at
least two weeks, and I'll post my snail-mail address when it's done.  If you
have any q's, please mail me direct in order to keep list traffic down for
Greg.  Thanks...

****************************************************************************
*****************
To new list members who might be wondering what this is about:

As you probably know, Olds held its Centennial Celebration in Lansing, MI
during the last week of August.  Many list members attended, but I didn't
get to go.  I've worked in television for 10 years, and produced many high
school graduation videos, fraternity rush videos, and a few weddings.  After
Lansing was over, I asked list members to send me their tapes so I could dub
them and produce an "Unofficial" video for the mail list.  (Since I didn't
go, I figured this would be a good way for me to get to see all those nice
rides. :-)  If you're interested, please mail me direct at the address below.

Thanks,

Doug Newman     <dnewman@wcbi.com>
Columbus, MS
1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 21:51:57 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Olds & Youth

Thanks for the trip back Dr. Bob - when I was in high school ('77) my
friend's '64 Chevelle was one of the nicest cars and it had a Earl Scheib
paint job (blinding yellow).  We egged the interior of a '63 Dodge Dart
because it was so ugly.   My '63 Nova SS was actually the nicest 'original'
car around but that 6 cyl-3 on the tree blew the perf. angle.

When I bought my '67 C/S in '78, on the street where I lived, we had a nice
selection of muscle cars, thanks to all of us being speed fanatics.  Two
Hemi Cuda's ('69 & '70) and a '70 Duster for the three Furuya brothers
(they never drove the Cuda's, just fired them up to make us youngsters
drooooooool), the '69 Chevelle, 396-4spd that belonged to Ron's girlfriend
(he borrowed it continually) on the corner, his next door neighbor Brent
had the '62 Corvette convert,  the three Gerardi brothers and their '69
Chevelle SS 396, '70 1/2 Camaro (small block) and '70 Grand Torino (351
Cleveland we later built up thanks to the owner Don  who was the least gear
minded of us all,  he just kept buying the parts we told him to for us all
to put in for him - he was mad about it for awhile until he got hooked on
spinning the tires with practically no effort - plus we all kept it timed
and running good for him), Steve across the street had a '70 SS 396
Chevelle and Danny next to him bought a '70 Cuda cause we told him to.
Another friend had his Dad's incredibly beautiful '66 Sport Fury (383
auto).  My boyfriend had the '70  SS 454 Chevelle but was an Olds fan.  I
had the only Olds, my lonely little '67 C/S convertible with its trusty
330.  One of the fastest stock cars around was a '67 Buick Skylark that my
boyfriend's roommate owned, but did he look silly racing shifting his 3
speed manual on the column!  These cars were all still plentiful (which was
why the majority of us moved on to others after these...) but we realized
what a good group we had and used to go en masse to parties and act like we
were too cool.

I can't even imagine having a group like that together today.  I still can
hear those Hemi's being fired up (in addition to a Hemi GSX that lived in
the house behind ours).  Brings back great memories.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 01:09:36 EST
From: BIG JERMES <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Are these SSIIIs something special?

In a message dated 97-12-12 13:39:17 EST, you write:

<< and also only the painted wheels had the outer trim
 ring.  >>

well, i have a set of ss3s, and they are 15x7", chrome, and have the trim
rings.  see, you could get the trim rings to lower the cost on your 442 back
in the 80s.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 22:36:16 PST
From: "John Stolarski" <oldscs350@hotmail.com>
Subject: 442 Pwr Steering Box in a CS

Well, the "Black Mariah" just got a new Power Steering Box, I put the
442/GN/Monte Carlo SS variety instead of the stock CS model...it has
something like one more turn to the wheel and a quicker steering ratio
...anyway, for those who were wondering earlier...a stock pump will run
this box just fine, everything matches up linewise, and she turns really
smooth now...I'm still getting used to it, but I like it!!!!!
Now to concentrate on the new engine again...but now I want those
bushings Jason always talks about...so many toys, so little money....



  John Stolarski
'86 Cutlass Supreme
 The "Black Mariah"


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 01:39:16 EST
From: BIG JERMES <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: harmonic balancers

well, i went to check my timing the other day, and i couldnt see my timing
mark on the balancer!!  i rotated my dist. a little, and it appered on the
extreme side of the balancer.  i think the thing has broken loose from the
rubber part in the middle and slid around.  is this possible?  i checked the
thing while the ª1 piston was at the top and the balancer read nowhere near
tdc.  so im pretty sure ill need another balancer, but what kind and where do
i get it from?  i have another stock one off another '72 350, but ill bet it
will do the same thing.  the fluidampr balancers are nothing short of $300, so
i dont want one of those, either.  anybody got any ideas?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 01:58:56 EST
From: BIG JERMES <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Tires & such

thats the size i have, and the wheels i have, scott.  i have bfgoodrich radial
t/as on my '78 cutlass.  great tires.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 02:36:01 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: My first car (almost)

> Does anyone else have a story about an Olds that they
> coulda/shoulda/woulda bought, but for some reason didn't, and has
> regretted that decision ever since?

        My first car was ALMOST an Olds - a 1976 Olds Cutlass Salon.  Had a
350 (pretty sure) in it, buckets and console.  The body was in surprisingly
good shape - either it wasn't driven winters or it was restored, cause the
floors underneath were immaculate!  The reason I didn't buy it was because it
was in the dead of winter when my dad and I went and looked at it (Jan. '94)
and one of the passenger side frost plugs leaked quite badly (within 10
minutes of it running steam was billowing out from that side of the engine),
and my father and I didn't have the time/space to work on the car to fix it -
I needed a car right away for school.  Maybe it's all the better that the car
didn't end up being my first or it would have most likely ended up looking
like my now-beat-up '76 Monte Carlo.
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 03:08:22 EST
From: RCKTPWR <RCKTPWR@aol.com>
Subject: Re: sounds (my take on the subject)

In a message dated 97-12-13 02:24:45 EST, you write:

<< now teh hot rods are disguised as pocket rockets == Olds Quad 4
  >>
that aint shit compared to vintage rockets!!! Q4 my *ss!!! aerotech my ass yr
shaun and i know it!!! no 4cyl will equal the might of a rocket v-8!!!   Umm
lets see, your plastic q4 or a, say, 56 Olds super 88???? easy choice!!! Lets
count up the people who agreed w/u on the q4 over vintage
Olds...........one......and??????
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 03:15:54 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Non-AC pan on an AC firewall

> You could replace it with another cover, but you'd have to custom make one;
> the factory non-A/C box was of a different configuration, and will not
> match up to the holes on the firewall (tried it- didn't work). You could
> always use the original box as a pattern or basis for the replacement box;
> it would already include the mount for the fan (I'm assuming you want to
> keep some kind of heat and ventilation).
> Heck, this is something that I thought the aftermarket would have come up
> with by now: a simple heavy-duty fiberglass box to convert an A/C car to
> non-A/C.

        I ran into the exact same issue on my '76 Cutlass.  I ripped the air
components out (saved 80lbs!!) and then grabbed a non-AC pan from the exact 
same
car, only a 4-door, and found it was SLIGHTLY different.  The pan was narrower
and shorter.  I'm planning on trying to "extend" the pan.  I'm going to cut it
and rivet in extensions and use body filler on the outside and paint it up 
nice.
I'll let you know how it goes and if it works out ok I'll post the exact
dimensions/extensions/cuts I used. - -- Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL
Tech Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/ mailto:lee@mergetel.com Welland, Ontario,
Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 08:41:01 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: ADMIN: Quad 4 Flames

For the info of all... the address rcktpwr@aol.com has been removed from
the list due to ignoring the warning posted here about continuing this
argument. Anyone following up in a similar vein will also be tossed.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 97 08:51:39 -0400
From: Mike Hall <oldsmike@flash.net>
Subject: Parts Needed...

I am still looking for some parts for my 87' Custom Cruiser:

- - Front Hood Emblem, any late 80's Olds Eighty Eight Emblems w/the chrome
strip up the hood should be fine.

- - Gear Shift Selector handle, any late 80's Olds Eighty Eight's with TILT
STEERING should be fine, this would include the metal bent handle and the
plastic knob on the end.

A lot of the Hood Emblems up here in Michigan have been attacked by the
Calcium Chloride and the road salt. The chrome cracks and attacks the die
cast metal underneath, bubbles all over making it less than satisfactory
for my car... GM Parts wants 50 bucks for it, a lot of things I will pay
50 bucks for, this is not one of them!

I have found several gear shift handles, many are broke and when I find a
good one the yard wants to sell me the whole steering column... The parts
department wants 50 bucks for this thing too!

Those of you going to any yards in the near future, please keep me in
mind:-)
Regards,
Mike


Michael R. Hall: OCA ª17903                    Ortonville, Michigan
Home E-Mail: oldsmike@flash.net
The Ever-Growing Oldsmobile Stable:
1971 Oldsmobile 442
1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1987 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Custom Cruiser
1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 97 08:51:41 -0400
From: Mike Hall <oldsmike@flash.net>
Subject: Alpha-One Olds stuff...

I got my banner yesterday. It's very large and will look positively
awesome in the barn once it is up in the Spring. It was expensive, $100
bucks for it. There were a total of 40, they had 26 left as of early last
week, anyone who went to the centennial and has the ceiling to put it up,
It's a good buy in my book, brought back lots of memories for me.


Michael R. Hall: OCA ª17903                    Ortonville, Michigan
Home E-Mail: oldsmike@flash.net
The Ever-Growing Oldsmobile Stable:
1971 Oldsmobile 442
1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1987 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Custom Cruiser
1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 06:48:30 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Funny story

Jerry Christopher wrote:
>
> Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:
>
> > I guess I am having 442 withdrawls.  Can't wait to get my 442 fixed.
> > The DRB is not too bad as long as I don't drive it in "D".
>
> As opposed to P, or R, or even N, I'll take D anyday!  hahaha

I guess you haven't read previous messages of mine.  The does run
in "D" but very annoyingly.  Shifts from 1 to OD too soon.  I drive
the car like a stick (1 - 2 - 3 - forget D) and that seems much better.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 07:01:58 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Olds List Lansing Video Update (Long)

Doug,

Are you the one who contracted with Alpha One to market those Centennial
tapes?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 10:13:57 -0800
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: Painting

DR OLDS350 wrote:

> Hi All,
>
>        I am looking for a place to have my car painted. I called up a
> few
> places and thier prices were around 3-4000 dollars. I was on my way to
> a place
> to see if they would repair my hood and I noticed Macco. I went inside
> and
> asked a few questions. They said that they can blast the car and paint
> it with
> a base coat clear coat for 599 dollars. Has anyone on the list had any
>
> expierence with Macco at all? If so, how did you like the job they did
> on your
> car? How much does a good paint job run for a car that has no rust?
>
> Jim / DROLDS350@aol.com
> <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/w31pictures.html">1970
> Cutlass W31
> </A>
> 1970 Rallye 350
> <



1 thing I like about these assembly line operations is: if you want the
tires and wheels done...just leave them on the car.....Earl Scheib says
for $49.95 we do it all....yeah right...and leave the windows down and
they'll do the  interior for FREE!!....Hoagie

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 09:27:08 -0600
From: "John C. Ramsey" <jramsey@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Valve Train Blues

Hey folks!

    Well I've got my 455 into my Cutlass and gotten it broken in
(initial).  I am having one heck of a time keeping my valve train
together!

    I've purchased hi-rev hydraulic lifters, steel roller rockers, 9.9 x
5/16 in oil restricted push rods, a stud and poly-lck set from
Mondello.  I've been able to drive the car twice : once for about 300
yards when I started to hear a popping sound and engine surging.  I
pulled the valve cover off to find that one of my rocker studs had
backed out, the rocker arm had flopped around, and the push rod had bent
(d'oh!).  Well I waited 2 days to get a couple of new push rods (I
wanted extras).  I used loc-tite to put the stud back in, got it bolted
back together last night.  I got to drive about a quarter mile to a gas
station and back...it died in the parking lot to a similar popping.  I
pulled the valve cover off to find that it wasn't a stud, but the dang
poly-lock that had backed off!  Well we couldn't believe it,

    Does anyone have any better ideas on keeping that valve train locked
down?  This has been incredibly frustrating...the whole thing's been
fighting me since day one...and it's the only car I have (I've been out
of a ride for about 6 months).  So what I need it this thing to be
reliable (I also need to drive it to Dallas - 180 miles) on Thursday.

    Thanks for any help you can give me.

John Ramsey
'69 Cutlass 455 (with those ultra high-performance loose valves!)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 11:04:59 -0500
From: "DREW RACING" <drewracn@gte.net>
Subject: Cheesy paint jobs from hell...

 If anyone is even considering Maaco or Earl Scheib type of paint job think
twice, THINK REAL CAREFULLY ABOUT IT!  My best friend owns his own shop in
northern Indiana and I work their when I feel like helping out.  We have
had too many people bring cars in with $200.00 to $500.00 or more paint
jobs that wanted new paint.  I have never seen sicker paint work than this
crap that these shops put out.  I think you would be better off going to
Wal-Mart and buying the cheapest spray bomb enamel and doing the whole car
in your driveway than having one of those places do it.  The bottom line is
going to be a minimum of around $2,000.00 for a really nice, complete daily
driver paint job.  This is a paint job where you drive a complete car to
the body shop with all the trim on and the car all together and the shop
takes it apart to paint.  All of the trim would come off and other things
that don't get painted would be carefully taped off.  They should fix minor
door dings and do good prepping for this amount of money.  Rust holes mean
big $$ and you can add more to your bill.  Actual dents, not dings, require
a lot more expertise and you can add more to your bill.  A color change
adds a big jump in price because the hood, doors and deck lid have to come
off to paint the jams.  This is expensive because all those parts have to
be realigned when assembly time arrives.  Depending on where you live, body
shops charge $30 to $35.00 an hour.  Pretend it is like going to your
family doctor only you are at his office for an "extended" stay!

By the way, the tires and wheels wouldn't get painted either!  Do yourself
a favor and take your car to the body shop with old, spare wheels on it to
save the over-spray mess though.  Even though they may cover them up,
over-spray creeps into everywhere.  I even throw old sheets over the
interior too if you are leaving it in.

Here is an example of a normal estimate at a nice, small-town body shop
that is know for nice paint jobs and I saw two Mustangs that the guy did at
a show.  Two years ago I took my '88 Mustang LX coupe SEFI 5.0 liter (I
knew you guys would love it!) to get this estimate.  The paint on the car
was only a few years old, but a few tiny door dings really chapped my @$$,
so I wanted a new paint job.  To leave the doors, hood and deck lid on and
not change the color it was $1924.00.  To take the doors, hood and deck lid
off and hang them (keep from having tape lines everywhere by spraying the
doors while they are hung on racks) the shop quoted me $2400.00.  I thought
this was more than reasonable.  I ended up painting it with my friend at
his shop and paid for materials only.  Using Sikkens paint, I had $675.00
in just paint supplies!  This didn't include buying a few new trim pieces
and all new weather stripping and window felts.

I hope all this helps!

Drew Walz
DREW RACING

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 10:16:10 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: To Frame Off or not to frame off

You should first decide what your goals are for this car before doing
anything.  If you want the perfect car & effort & money don't matter; of
course take everything apart.  If you want a nice ª2 car that will win most
any show around, I would never do this.  There are even ª1 cars that have
never had the body off.

After you decide your level of perfection & the depth of your pockets, start
taking as exact assessment of the project in question as possible. Take your
time & go over everything several times w/plenty of notes & pictures.  Don't
forget to study everything ever written on this car & related vehicles.
Consult experts & have others you trust to check your findings.

Get together a plan on a logical effort to reach your objectives.  You don't
want one thing waiting on others while your project stalls for months &
years.

Start lining up services & parts so that your plan will fall into place.
find out now what is impossible to get & what is merely very difficult.

Get a place w/at least 2 or 3 bays for this task.  Expect a year or more for
most serious projects.  The car & area will be tied up that long for sure.

Don't forget to double & triple your cost estimates.  Get your family
involved.  You will definitely need the support when everything goes wrong.

Expect long hours on the phone, at the shops where your parts are being
prepared, & redoing many things that were very expensive & labor intensive
the first time. Expect to get only 90% of the car that you planned.

My final advice is that I wouldn't take the frame off the body unless I
needed to.  If the body is as nice as you say & you can stand a ª2 car, save
your money & time.

BTW, floor pans & trunk pans are not cut to take the body off.  This would
make the body very unstable off the frame.  Floor & trunk work of any large
areas is best done on the frame.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible


>Olds List members:
>I am in the process of restoring a 1970 Rallye 350. I would like to take
the
>body off. I have heard a couple people on the list say that it is fairly
easy.
>If I take off the body would I have to cut the floor and trunk pans? The
car I
>am redoing has no rust and is in pretty good shape. Is there really a need
to
>take off the body? If I take the body off it wouldn't be till early summer,
>and I wouldn't be able to work on my car until the body is off. Is is
really
>neccasary to take the body off?
>
>Jim
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 11:31:47 EST
From: AGUY4RUMLI <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Re: New England Power Tour

Im not sure of the dates but i would love to get involved for a few states.
Who knows maybe get my baby in the mag, that would be cool. Im going to grab
the mag today to find the dates. Hope to see you there.

 Joe
72 442 conv.
74 cultass s

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 11:54:46 -0500
From: "Jason K. Adcock" <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: 442 Pwr Steering Box in a CS

John Stolarski wrote:
>
> Now to concentrate on the new engine again...but now I want those
> bushings Jason always talks about...so many toys, so little money....

Believe you me, those bushings are worth the price of admission.  If you
don't already have the F41 suspension, I might suggest going ahead and
getting a 1.25" front bar because you have to specify the front sway bar
bushing diameter.  Of course, you can always order bigger ones later if you
decide to go with the bigger bar down the road.
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 11:57:33 -0500
From: Andy Geeting <geetinag@miavx1.acs.muohio.edu>
Subject: Off the list for a while

Hey,
     I'll be off the list temporarily during Christmas break. Should be
back around the 13th of January. 'Till then everyone have a good Christmas
and Happy New Year!!!

Andy Geeting
'87 Cutlass Supreme
'88 Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham
'74 Delta 88 convertible
'78 Caprice wagon
'36 Plymouth coupe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 11:24:33 EST
From: COUPE KING <COUPEKING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Tires & such

I have 245/60-15's and love them on my '69 and my '67.
Peter
CoupeKing

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 12:26:17 -0500
From: RC Hellebuyck <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Cork Vs. Rubber ?

BBRRRRRRRR! Winter is here in MI!  Time to put on those "new looking,
stock" valve covers I bought via this list!  :)

My question, what type of valve cover gaskets should I use? Cork or
Rubber?  Obviously, I don't want ANY leaks, (who does?).  I don't know
what type are on there now, but they sure don't leak.  :)

A while back, someone on the list said to use a little "gasket material"
on the covers only to make the gasket stick.  This was said to make for
an easier installation.  Sounds good to me, I'll try it.  Since I
haven't done this type of work for about 12 years I feel I'm a little
rusty.  ANY help, suggestions, tips or "don't do that's" anyone can give
is greatly appreciated!  BTW, it's a 455 with a/c.

Once I complete this job, I'd like to sell the chrome valve covers that
are currently on my car.  Both are in EC without rubber grommets.  $85.
for the pair. Shipping included.

- --
RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/driving.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 12:38:49 -0500
From: RC Hellebuyck <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Bad break booster blues

Since I'm changing the valve covers, I figure it's a good time to put on
a new power brake booster.  Currently my power brakes feel worse than
manual brakes.  Stops are usually "two footed".

Can anyone suggest a company to go with for a correct replacement?
Hemmings has 3 or 4 listed.  The one that caught my eye is out of CA.
"STEVE GREGORI"  His ad promises to rebuilt ~AND~ replate your booster
and master cylinder cover all for $100. with correct show quality.  For
my 71 4-4-2, I was told originally it was plated gold cad.

Thanks in advance for any feedback!  :)

- --
RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/driving.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 12:50:23 -0500
From: RC Hellebuyck <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Cheesy paint jobs from hell...

DREW RACING wrote:
>you would be better off going to Wal-Mart and buying the cheapest spray bomb
enamel and doing the whole car in your driveway than having one of those places
do it.>


Reminds me when a friend in high school wanted to paint his impala for
the upcoming prom but didn't have the cash.  He bought 2 qts. of
rustoleum "regal red" and a foam roller!!  :-0 LOL  It looked like sh*t
close-up, but from about 100 yards away, it did look better.  When I
think about it now, he should have used a 3/8" nap roller.  This would
have covered all the dings and left a nice texture as well!  :)

- --
RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/driving.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 12:43:15 -0500
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Are these SSIIIs something special?

BIG JERMES wrote:
>
> In a message dated 97-12-12 13:39:17 EST, you write:
>
> << and also only the painted wheels had the outer trim
>  ring.  >>
>
> well, i have a set of ss3s, and they are 15x7", chrome, and have the trim
> rings.  see, you could get the trim rings to lower the cost on your 442 back
> in the 80s.

What year 442?  This is interesting.  I've NEVER seen a stock 85-87 442
without the full chrome rim.  There is a gold pinstripe around the outer
edge with gold paint inlay on all of them.  It was already included in
the 442 package, so if you ordered the W42 442 package, you got the full
chrome rim.  I didn't have any say in the wheels when I ordered mine,
since there were no provisions on the order sheet for it.  N67 is the
code if I'm not mistaken.  If they were already chrome, why wouldn't you
opt NOT to use the trim ring?  And specifically, how much was saved over
the price of not getting full chrome?  The Cutlass Salon was available
only with the 14 X 6, unless you ordered the W42.  Of course, a dealer
could have done anything the customer wished, I guess.  However the
Delta's had 15 X 7's.  If you went to the dealerships today to order 442
wheels, you get the full chrome rim with the gold pinstripe. No other
option available.  I suppose ANYTHING is possible, but unless someone
proves it otherwise, I can't believe the mid 80's 442s rolled off the
assembly line with anything other than 15 X 7 full chrome SSIII's with
NO trim rings.
- --
Mike Rothe
69 H/O
71 442 HT
85 442 T-top
76 GMC 1/2 ton, 502 c.i.

http://pages.prodigy.net/mrothe/rocket.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 13:02:05 -0500
From: RC Hellebuyck <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: ISP Problems

Malcolm Gillespie wrote:
>Sprynet still hasn't solved my e-mail problems. Does anyone else on the list
use Yahoo Mail? Is there any way of using my regular e-mail program?>


I use sprynet and was just curious why you want to use yahoo for your
e-mail?  Have you tried Netscape or Microsoft explorer?  The latest
version of MS explorer is really cool, there are alot of new e-mail
features added.  BTW, you can download it free from MS' web page, (in
case you didn't know).

Just food for thought  :)


- --
RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/driving.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 13:04:50 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: More on '69 parts car

> area code 330 is in akron ohio

There ya have it.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 13:04:17 -0500
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: harmonic balancers

> i think the thing has broken loose from the
> rubber part in the middle and slid around.  is this possible?  i checked the
> thing while the ª1 piston was at the top and the balancer read nowhere near
> tdc.  so im pretty sure ill need another balancer, but what kind and where do
> i get it from?

This is EXTREMELY possible.  The problem with the dampers when they get
old is the very fact that the rubber dries out, then the outer ring will
slip, or worse, try to come off, and mess up the whole works.  If it is
a car that you plan on keeping for a long time, I highly suggest going
to the local Olds dealer and purchasing a new one.  Less than 100
bucks.  The problem with using a "used" one, is just like you said, it
could be in the same shape.  The beauty of this is that the 307-455
balancers are the same part ª at the dealership.  I know, cause I was
surprised to find out they had a new 455 balancer, which I found out
later, it fit all of the V-8's.  (Except the "unusual" applications,
such as W-31, etc.)  So they are available new.  If you are in a bind
for cash, inspect the spare one you have, compare it to what's on the
car and carefully inspect the rubber for obvious signs of slippage,
cracking, etc.  Ninety percent of the time you could get away with using
that spare and have no problems, but if you are going to do some serious
running with the car, go get a new one.

Just some ideas.....

- --
Mike Rothe
69 H/O
71 442 HT
85 442 T-top
76 GMC 1/2 ton, 502 c.i.

http://pages.prodigy.net/mrothe/rocket.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 13:08:15 -0500
From: "Bradford W. Nicholson" <brad442@erols.com>
Subject: OCA Web Site Found In Italy ! (or 88 Diesel F/S)

Dang, got this from the OCA Web Site this week!  The car is a diesel (
Convert to gas, it might be worth a trip to check it out ;-)
Cao.
================================================================
Subject: oldsmobile
  Date:  Wed, 10 Dec 1997 11:51:53 +0100
  From:  "." <finiso@tin.it>
    To:  <brad442@erols.com>

Dear Sirs.
My name is Andrea Pelucchi and I work for a TOYOTA dealer in Italy.
In our used car park we have got an oldsmobile delta royale 88 Diesel.
I would like to know if you could be interested in this car.
For more informations please mail me back.

Yours faithfully.
=====================================================================
- --

 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eight Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - MD
e-Mail: brad442@erols.com
Personal Web Site - http://www.erols.com/brad442
Official OCA Web Site - http://www.erols.com/brad442/oca

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 13:11:55 -0500
From: urbanch <urbanch@magi.com>
Subject: RE: Valve Train Blues

First thing to check is interferance between the pushrods and the head through
its full travel. These things have a habit of binding up on the sides of the
pushrod holes with high lift cams and can cause all sorts of problems. Then I'd
check for coil bind. Once these 2 things are ruled out I would suspect the
hardware.

- ----------
From: John C. Ramsey[SMTP:jramsey@mail.utexas.edu]
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 1997 10:27 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Valve Train Blues

Hey folks!

    Well I've got my 455 into my Cutlass and gotten it broken in
(initial).  I am having one heck of a time keeping my valve train
together!

    I've purchased hi-rev hydraulic lifters, steel roller rockers, 9.9 x
5/16 in oil restricted push rods, a stud and poly-lck set from
Mondello.  I've been able to drive the car twice : once for about 300
yards when I started to hear a popping sound and engine surging.  I
pulled the valve cover off to find that one of my rocker studs had
backed out, the rocker arm had flopped around, and the push rod had bent
(d'oh!).  Well I waited 2 days to get a couple of new push rods (I
wanted extras).  I used loc-tite to put the stud back in, got it bolted
back together last night.  I got to drive about a quarter mile to a gas
station and back...it died in the parking lot to a similar popping.  I
pulled the valve cover off to find that it wasn't a stud, but the dang
poly-lock that had backed off!  Well we couldn't believe it,

    Does anyone have any better ideas on keeping that valve train locked
down?  This has been incredibly frustrating...the whole thing's been
fighting me since day one...and it's the only car I have (I've been out
of a ride for about 6 months).  So what I need it this thing to be
reliable (I also need to drive it to Dallas - 180 miles) on Thursday.

    Thanks for any help you can give me.

John Ramsey
'69 Cutlass 455 (with those ultra high-performance loose valves!)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 13:10:39 -0500
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Bad break booster blues

> Can anyone suggest a company to go with for a correct replacement?
> Hemmings has 3 or 4 listed.  The one that caught my eye is out of CA.
> "STEVE GREGORI"  His ad promises to rebuilt ~AND~ replate your booster
> and master cylinder cover all for $100. with correct show quality.
>
I've heard that was a good place from others on this list, and also,
"Booster Dewey" has had a few customers on this list.  I called a few of
those places, and  when my projects get nearer completion, I'm probably
gonna opt for Dewey.  Anyone here care to tell us personal experience??
I'm very interested in this myself.

- --
Mike Rothe
69 H/O
71 442 HT
85 442 T-top
76 GMC 1/2 ton, 502 c.i.

http://pages.prodigy.net/mrothe/rocket.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 14:37:30 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Bad break booster blues

I have second-hand experience with Steve Grigori's boosters, as my buddy
has one on his '71 SX. He is very happy with it. It looks great, very
shiny gold cad, and he has had no problems with it's function either.
He's get a recommendation from my friend I'm sure, because he's about to
order another one from him for another car.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Dec 1997 13:46:01 -0500
From: "Bradford W. Nicholson" <brad442@erols.com>
Subject: 1968 Delta 88 F/S (TX)

Somthin' else from the OCA Site.  Usual discaimers and such.  If
interested, reply to Ed, his e-mail is listed
===============================================================
ehernan3@ae0032.pd8.ford.com


Hello,
   My name is Ed Hernandez. I don't own an Oldmobile, but my grandfather
does. He is the original owner of a 1968 Delta 88 with a 455 2bbl,
silver on black. To my chagrin, he has decided to finally sell it. If I
could afford it, I would buy it. Unfortunately, I already have a toy:
1963 Impala SS 327.
   I am part of the National Impala Association and the Late Great Chevy
clubs. I told my grandfather he should not sell this car in the local
classifieds, but list it in some kind of Oldsmobile club. This way, he
would be assured someone would buy it who would take good care of it. I
surfed the net and found your club.
   The clubs I belong to have a monthly magazine with ads in the rear
for selling parts and whole cars. Does your club offer the same service?
   I do not believe that my grandfather would be interested in joing
your club for $30-$40 just to sell his car, but the clubs I belong to
will only list ads for club members. Do you have a similar policy?
   My Impala has been in the family since 1968. It would be ideal if
someone in my family had the resources and dedication to look after my
grandfather's Delta 88 the same way I have taken care of the Impala, but
as I mentioned above, this isn't possible. I appreciate any help you can
offer. Surely someone in your club would like this car and care for it,
instead of parting it out or running it into the ground. I look forward
to hearing from you.

You are receiving this from my friend's PC in Austin, TX, where I am
visiting during the Thanksgiving holidays. My grandfather lives in San
Antonio, TX, and I live in Canton, MI, near Detroit. My e-mail address
is:

ehernan3@ae0032.pd8.ford.com(yes, I work for Ford but I am restoring a
Chevy...)

Don't use REPLY, or your email will go to my friend's PC.

Yours,
Ed Hernandez
ehernan3@ae0032.pd8.ford.com
============================================

 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eight Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - MD
e-Mail: brad442@erols.com
Personal Web Site - http://www.erols.com/brad442
Official OCA Web Site - http://www.erols.com/brad442/oca

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª1007
*********************************
