To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1027


oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, December 25 1997     Volume 01 : Number 1027



Re: MI swap meet
Re: 81' Cutlass Supreme
re one wire
Re: TH 350 Kick Down
Re: MI swap meet
Re: MI swap meet
Re: Happy Holidays
Olds Xmas Present
Re: 81' Cutlass Supreme
Re: Olds Xmas Present
engine ª's
Re: Olds Xmas Present
Fw: 70 Olds NOS 8-Track Player
Merry Christmas
Re: 68/69 sports steering wheel
Re: engine ª's
Re: 68/69 sports steering wheel
Ultra cool '79 Delta 88
Intake Manifold re-tourqing
RE: Intake Manifold re-tourqing
Auto Repair Ripoff info for Florida
Rallye pac for 77-85 B-body
Re: engine ª's
Intake Manifold Problem

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Dec 1997 17:33:24 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: MI swap meet

Chris,

They are not.  The '68's look like a Corvette wheel only not so dished.
They are wood grained 3-spoke items w/brushed stainless looking spokes.  The
center cap is the horn button w/an Olds rocket on it.

Strangely, mine came w/a 2 spoke from '65-'67.  It is in excellent shape,
but not what I really want.  This wheel is about an inch or so bigger in
diameter than the 3-spoke item.

That '69 wheel is a one year piece.  It has a vinyl grip w/vinyl spokes &
wood look inserts on the 3 spokes.  The large center piece hass a wood look
at the center w/an Olds rocket in silver.  I have a black one in the barn
somewhere, but I believe that there were other colors.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible


>M&D Gillespie wrote:
>>
>> The 69 sport wheel seems to be rare. I saw one at the swap meet at
>> Lansing and the guy wanted an arm and a leg for it. I'll keep my eyes
>> open for you though. No, I don't want to part with mine. Sorry! :-)
>
>Are the 68 sport wheel the same as the 69 sport wheel?
>
>Chris Sparks
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Dec 1997 18:59:31 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: 81' Cutlass Supreme

Lloyd W. Culp wrote:
>
> Jerry,
>
> You can probably save about $30 of the $75-$100 for the job.  I know that is
> what I'd do.  I always need the money saved for the things that cost so
> dearly.

Here we are talking about saving $30 when I know I'm just gonna sink it
back into it anyways! <G>

Happy Holidays.
- --
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Dec 1997 16:21:29 -0800 (PST)
From: Jack Karamanos <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: re one wire

on a one wire there only needs to be one 10 gauge wire from the large post
on the alt. to the pos terminal on the battery.  the rest of the wires
from the alt, or gen could be taped off or removed.  you might need a volt
meter or amp gauge to know if everything is functioning or just drive it,
and when the battery goes dead then test to determine the problem.
one wires are great, have them on everything

47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Dec 1997 19:44:39 EST
From: ANTIQ OLDS <ANTIQOLDS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: TH 350 Kick Down

  This car has a kickdown cable,   How is it, check to see if it connected, or
broken or missing. It is connected to the top of the accel braket under the
dash and runs thru the firewall and down to the transmission.
  If it is missing or damaged I have them for sale NOS.


Everett  OCAª 1961   1961 Starfire

Happy Festivus

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 00:27:47 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: MI swap meet

Chris

The 68 is different in that it only has two horn buttons
one on each of the horizontal spokes. Also the 68 wheel
has a section of ribbing on each side where the horizonntial
spokes connect to the rim.

The 69's have horn buttons on all three spokes, and the rim
is plain all the way around.
They look very close but are definately different.

Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 00:27:49 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: MI swap meet

Bill

The woodgrain three spoke you refer to came only on
the Hurst Olds as a option in 68.
The regular 68 sport wheel looks similar to the 69
only has two horn buttons vs. 3 on the 69.
also the 68 has a sectino of ribbing on the rim on each side
where the 69 is plain all the way around.

I have a friend that is an original owner of a 68 Ram Rod and he has
a wood rimmed wheel but it wasn't available with the car as an option
from the factory.

P.S. if ya ever dig up the one in the "Barn" let me know if ya want
to part with it  Please    Please   Please

Best Regards,
R.Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 00:43:13 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Happy Holidays

Daniel R. Gerow wrote:

> Just think...As the Summer months approach we can all pull out our rides and
> once again enjoy them to the fullest!

Daniel I would just like to get one of them done to enjoy this next
summer.  A Merry Christmas to you also.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 02:45:10 EST
From: CCRR12 <CCRR12@aol.com>
Subject: Olds Xmas Present

I got a gift from my wife that made me feel like a 12 year old. She searched,
made phone calls, and located a 1/25 model of my Olds. I never had any models
as a kid, but I had mentioned in passing that it would be neat to have, except
I didn't think any were ever available.
I'm sure some of you guys have seen exhibiters at OCA events that have models
for sale. As I said, I never owned or made any models, just the 1/1 scale.
This car is an off-white plastic 57 4 dr. hardtop with rubber white-wall
wheels. The interior detail is pretty accurate. On the underside is 'JO-HAN
Models, Detroit 12, Mich.' I actually wouldn't define it as a model car but
just a plastic replica for dealer or promotional use.  I'd be interested on
any further info or opinions.
By the way, I am not caught up in any collectable value, just the novelty and
the fact a woman went to this much trouble for a car thing. (and in 15 years
she has never seen the Olds move under its own power)

Later
Randy in Okla
57 88 J/2   2dr. HC

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 03:29:55 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 81' Cutlass Supreme

>        I just bought my first car today!  I'm 16 and after seriuosly looking
>for the last 4 months I decided on a 1981 Olds Cutlass Supreme.  I'll be

Congratulations! That must make this a Merry Christmas for you today!

>honest my first choice was a Monte Carlo but here (Wisconsin) they are in
We won't mention that again around here, OK? The past is the past... ;)

>price or is it to high?  It has a real solid body and like 4 small rust spots.
>It runs real nice, with a rebuilt 350 but it's only a 2bbl.  When I take

Sounds like a '68-'73 350 (later ones didn't come with the 2-bbl); what is
the number cast in the lower-left of the head, near the ª1 sparkplug (under
the alternator)? See the FAQ; that will help you ID the motor and it's
original application. Also post the number stamped on the side of the carb;
that will tell us its origin as well.

It is easy enough to switch over to a 4-bbl; you might make that your ª1
priority if you're thinking about upgrading this car. Obviously, however,
the stock computer is disconnected, I'm assuming.

>pictures I'll get them on the compter so you guys can check it out.  I'm
>probably going to have a lot of questions, because i'm not exaclty greatly
>mechanically gifted :(

This is why the list is here! So, ask away! At the very least, it will
distract us from the Quad-4 vs. Rocket V-8 thread... ;)

My first car that I bought when I was 16 was a used Cutlass Supreme with
some rust spots; I still have the car (and the rust spots!), and to this day
when I park it somewhere and start walking in to where I'm going, I can't
help but turn around and admire the car a few times on my way in, thinking
"dang, that's a good-looking car!". It's nice when the car you like best in
any given parking lot is _your_ car!

So good luck with your '81 CS, and keep them questions coming!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 08:26:55 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Xmas Present

Merry Christmas,

Nice woman.  Nice Christmas.  Nice car.  Lucky man!

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible


>I got a gift from my wife that made me feel like a 12 year old. She
searched,
>made phone calls, and located a 1/25 model of my Olds

>By the way, I am not caught up in any collectable value, just the novelty
and
>the fact a woman went to this much trouble for a car thing. (and in 15
years
>she has never seen the Olds move under its own power)
>
>Later
>Randy in Okla
>57 88 J/2   2dr. HC
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 09:45:24 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: engine ª's

Engine ª's!

For years I've wondered how to tell if the 400 engine in my car is the
original.
It looks like the original, maroon color when I got it, but I've never been
able to find or read the numbers to match it to the car.  Reason I ask is the
guy I bought it from (12 yrs ago) said he blew the engine and had a 455 put
it, but it's still a 400. I've always wondered if the mechanic just fixed the
engine and charged him? Or put in another 400?

Anyone know how I can figure this out?

8583 ª on front of oil filler tube (stampeed)
394-548 ª stamped on heads

isn't there a ª on the block?
please tell me it's not behind the alternator brackets...

Thanks,
Aaron (69 442 Conv - Squished)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 06:59:56 -0800
From: "Gary Andresen" <gandresen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Xmas Present

Randy,

You are a lucky guy to have a '57 Olds, my second favorite after the '55s,
and
a wife who supports your love for the car.

Just got my '55 on the road in time for El Nino, but did take my wife for a
ride
last weekend and she appears to finally be coming around on how great it is
to have a Fifties Olds.

Doing a complete brake job and front bearings tomorrow, then we can do a
little Freeway test.

Have a great Christmas and give your wife a big hug.

O.K., you can go out and hug your Olds too.

Gary Andresen

- -----Original Message-----
From: CCRR12 <CCRR12@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, December 24, 1997 11:47 PM
Subject: Olds Xmas Present


>I got a gift from my wife that made me feel like a 12 year old. She
searched,
>made phone calls, and located a 1/25 model of my Olds. I never had any
models
>as a kid, but I had mentioned in passing that it would be neat to have,
except
>I didn't think any were ever available.
>I'm sure some of you guys have seen exhibiters at OCA events that have
models
>for sale. As I said, I never owned or made any models, just the 1/1 scale.
>This car is an off-white plastic 57 4 dr. hardtop with rubber white-wall
>wheels. The interior detail is pretty accurate. On the underside is 'JO-HAN
>Models, Detroit 12, Mich.' I actually wouldn't define it as a model car but
>just a plastic replica for dealer or promotional use.  I'd be interested on
>any further info or opinions.
>By the way, I am not caught up in any collectable value, just the novelty
and
>the fact a woman went to this much trouble for a car thing. (and in 15
years
>she has never seen the Olds move under its own power)
>
>Later
>Randy in Okla
>57 88 J/2   2dr. HC
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 07:21:42 -0800
From: "Gary Andresen" <gandresen@ibm.net>
Subject: Fw: 70 Olds NOS 8-Track Player

- -----Original Message-----
From: Paul3130 <paul3130@aol.com>
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Date: Friday, December 19, 1997 5:47 PM
Subject: 70 Olds NOS 8-Track Player


>Model ª 03BT411, Product ª 7313283.  Replacement unit without knobs or
case.
>Mint and show quality.  Email for more info.
>
>paul3130@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 11:12:05 -0800
From: 1010 ª45900 WB3KJG Larry Polesnak <bullets@sgi.net>
Subject: Merry Christmas

Merry Christmas to everyone on the list,may this message fine you in the
best of Health...  Larry Polesnak
        6    2    S    T    A    R    F     I    R     E
- --
                /\__________________/\_________________/\
           /\__/Amateur Radio Station  WB3KJG  ARES,RACES\__/\
      /\__/Skywarn/ 1O1Oª 459OO /BreezeShooters Number 87-279 \__/\
     / BreezeShooters web site   http://www.users.sgi.net/~wolfie/ \
    / 1962 STARFIRE"http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/downs/6250/" \
   -------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 08:12:15 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: 68/69 sports steering wheel

Hi all,

Now I am confused.  I have on one of my 442 a black steering wheel
with two horns and ribbing (which I thought was a deluxe steering
wheel).  The other has a 3 spoke wheel with stainless inserts and
a horn in the center with olds logo.  The wheel itself is wood grained.

Does this second car have a H/O steering wheel?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 13:43:48 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: engine ª's

Aaron,
 The 400 for 68-69 has a G in the block behind the water pump under the
intake. The 455's are all F blocks.
The way to identify if you block is in fact numbers matching is to verify
the last part of the vehicle vin no. which is stamped on a pad on the drivers
side of the block in front just under the "C" on the lower left corner of the
driver
side head. All 68-69's came with C heads. I do believe that the oil filler
tube
also had part of the vin stamped on it as well. However these were often
trashed
during engine swaps and replaced.
The only correct way is the pad on the block.

The engine color should actually be a copper/bronze color not maroon also.


Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 13:43:47 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 68/69 sports steering wheel

Either a 68 H/O wheel or ended up with a wheel from another
GM division.  They all offered wood grained wheels as options
over various models / years. I'll check with a friend that used to
work for Olds in 60's / 70's as he would have exact info  since he
bought a 68 ram rod new and still has it. It has th wood wheel and
I know he commented that it wasn't supposed to from the factory.

I can' speak of exacts regarding Deluxe vs. Sport for 68 but according
to assembly manual for 69 the deluxe wheel has one horizontal piece
with horn as part of whole piece. The sport wheel is the 3 spoked wheel
with the horn buttons in the spokes.

There was no wood rim wheel for 69.  I would put my money on the three spoke
vinyl wheel with the ribs in the rim is also the 68 "Sport wheel" and the
deluxe
is more like what most people all the stock wheel. The base stock wheel is
really a plain jane plastic wheel with two thin horizontal pieces from center
hub to each side of rim with horn in center of hub.

These are probably more rare then the sport wheels as people that bought
Oldsmobiles to begin with had class to start with and usually opted for the
better packages.

Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: 25 Dec 1997 12:21:40 PST
From: mjones@gleep.com
Subject: Ultra cool '79 Delta 88

In Castro Vallet, Ca. as I was coming home from the Pick-your-part (They
have a 68-70 98, E head 455, interior mostly there, even PLASTIC covers
over some seats, and a '79 Delta 88 with a 2bbl G head 455) I saw a '79
Delta 88 on low profile tires.  I quickly glanced at the rearend and it
had a herb adams 1.5" swaybar!  I pulled over REAL QUICK, hopped out and
took a look at this car.  It had 2.5" dual exhaust (no cats, I later
learned this was a diesel conversion) with flowmaster mufflers.  I found
the owner of the car who was a nice gentleman that was in his late 30s I
am guessing, and we ended up talking about his car for 15 minutes.  He
has a '70 455 under the hood (I did not get a chance to see the heads,
he told me that they were ported though) running 10:1 compression.  He
had 15x8 steel rims with 255/60/15 tires, with hubcaps from an early
toronado on the car (he told me he found them NEW, in plastic, in the
back of a Ford). We exchanged E-mail addresses, and I hope to keep in
contact with him.  Oh yeah, this was a 2 door car, and the only hint of
any engine mods before looking under the hood was a VDO tach.

This is almost exactly what I would like to do to my Delta 88 :)

Mike Jones
'78 Delta 88 2dr
Mailto:Mjones@gleep.com

------------------------------

Date: 25 Dec 1997 12:55:52 PST
From: mjones@gleep.com
Subject: Intake Manifold re-tourqing

When I re-installed my edelbrock performer manifold on my Olds 350 in
June, I neglected to put oil on the bolts before I installed them (Don't
hurt me too badly!).  I did re-torque them several times in the past
months, to make sure they were "right".  Is it okay for me to remove the
intake bolts, one at a time, put oil on them, and reinstall them?

Mike Jones
'78 Delta 88 2dr
Mailto: Mjones@gleep.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 15:40:40 -0500
From: urbanch <urbanch@magi.com>
Subject: RE: Intake Manifold re-tourqing

Don't bother you will not gain much and risk damaging some threads. Since this
is not a moving part chances are next to nothing that they will affect 
anything.
Try to retorque them again in about a month.

- ----------
From: mjones@gleep.com[SMTP:mjones@gleep.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 25, 1997 3:55 PM
To: Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Intake Manifold re-tourqing

When I re-installed my edelbrock performer manifold on my Olds 350 in
June, I neglected to put oil on the bolts before I installed them (Don't
hurt me too badly!).  I did re-torque them several times in the past
months, to make sure they were "right".  Is it okay for me to remove the
intake bolts, one at a time, put oil on them, and reinstall them?

Mike Jones
'78 Delta 88 2dr
Mailto: Mjones@gleep.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 15:57:46 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Sytsma <dsytsma@dc.seflin.org>
Subject: Auto Repair Ripoff info for Florida

Visit this web site, If you like this information, pass it along to
Others concerned.

Press release from Fl Dept of Ag regarding Auto Shop Repair investigations.

www.fl-ag.com/marketin/102297.htm


Dennis Jon Sytsma
19771 SW 280 St.
Homestead, Florida
33031-3204

dsytsma@dc.seflin.org    (this mailbox, text only)

I survived Hurricane Andrew! Ask me about it!

visit my new internet homepage and give me your comments or ideas

http://home.gzinc.com/sytsma/

my full internet account is:   sytsma@gzinc.com

please send large files to sytsma@gzinc.com or cc/forward a copy to
sytsma@gzinc.com to insure I get your message.

------------------------------

Date: 25 Dec 1997 13:44:36 PST
From: mjones@gleep.com
Subject: Rallye pac for 77-85 B-body

I would like to replace my aftermarket Auto Gage three gauge cluster
(which the water temp is broken and the insulator for the volts light is
too) with the factory Rallye Pac instrumentation in my '78 Delta 88.  It
never came with these instruments from the factory.  I know I need to
check the wiring harness to see if I have a plug for it, and the service
manual indicates that I need another valance panel (mine is standard,
with the indentation) and I will grab the sending units as well.  Would
I still be able to use my Idiot lights too (currently I have my oil
pressure sender hooked up plus a mechanical oil pressure gauge, for a
failsafe installation) or do the senders use the same wires?
The local Pick your part is having a Half-off sale on the first of
January, so I will be able to grab everything I need.  Has anybody
performed this modification?

Mike Jones
'78 Delta 88 2dr
Maikto: Mjones@gleep.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 23:06:48 +0000
From: Brad Otto <BradOtto@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: engine ª's

At 02:45 PM 12/25/97 +0000, you wrote:
>Engine ª's!
>
>For years I've wondered how to tell if the 400 engine in my car is the
>original.
>It looks like the original, maroon color when I got it, but I've never been
>able to find or read the numbers to match it to the car.  Reason I ask is the
>guy I bought it from (12 yrs ago) said he blew the engine and had a 455 put
>it, but it's still a 400. I've always wondered if the mechanic just fixed the
>engine and charged him? Or put in another 400?
>
>Anyone know how I can figure this out?
>
>8583 ª on front of oil filler tube (stampeed)
>394-548 ª stamped on heads
>isn't there a ª on the block?
>please tell me it's not behind the alternator brackets...
>
>Thanks,
>Aaron (69 442 Conv - Squished)
>
Aaron,

394-548 is the number of the C heads, which are correct for a '68-'69 442
400 cu in motor. (the numbers are actually cast into the head, not stamped).

The number stamped on the oil filler tube is the engine unit code.  The
first number indicates the year the engine was assembled and the remaining
numbers refer to the sequence number of the engine assembly (for
identification at the engine assembly plant). This number has no link to any
of the VIN data of the vehicle and does not contain any codes that identify
the engine size.

The engine I.D. number for a 400 or 455 Olds cast into the on top of the
engine block to the right of where the oil filler tube is inserted into the
block.  The number for a '68-'69 400 is 396026G.  The number for a '68-'72
455 is 396021F.

These engines have the last eight digits of the VIN stamped onto a pad that
is located on the front left side (drivers side) of the engine block just
below the C of the head. (If you have power steering, one of the power
steering brackets is makes it tough to see)

All 400's were bronze in color.  All 455's were blue.

Hope this helps.

Brad Otto
'69 442 Convertible, 4 speed
'70 442 W-30 Hardtop

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 15:36:53 -0800
From: Erik <erikreb@netbridge.net>
Subject: Intake Manifold Problem

Hello,

Today I got the courage to install new gaskets on my 350 olds.  I moved
everything out of my way, alternator, wires, drained the radiator, took
out all the manifold bolts and....

that is where my problem is.  I cannot get my manifold off the car.  All
12 bolts are off.  Could one of the following things be my problem?:

Do I have to remove the screws that hold the EGR blockoff plate?  My EGR
plate is on the right side and their is another opening on the left side
which has been blocked off too.

Do I have to remove the thermostat housing screws?  I also left the
vacume advance thinga of dingy in the manifold.  Could that be holding
it up?

Also, the temp out here in Oregon is about 50 degrees.  I didnt start
the engine before working on it.  Could that also have something to do
with it.

Thanks everybody, and since I dont have too much daylight left, I would
really appreciate some quick answers.

Erik B.
72 Cutlass S

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª1027
*********************************
