To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1068


oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, January 22 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1068



Power vrs. Vacuum
Edelbrock
Re: Eldenback (?) Carb
Re: Color Scheme
Re: RPORTER: 55 Olds Hard Starting
Re: Edelbrock
TH-2004R Questions
Re: Engine Possibility?
RE: Eldenback (?) Carb
Re: OVERHEATING?
Re: Holley Carbs  (Another question)
Re: Single to Dual Exhaust
GAS TANK sending unit question
Re: Power vrs. Vacuum
RE: Axle Ratio
RE: Axle Ratio
Re: Non-olds (F*rd)
Re: Valve covers and Tach
Re: Single to Dual exhaust
Re: TH-2004R Questions
Re: Crankscrapers
Re: GAS TANK sending unit question
Re: TH-2004R Questions
Re: GAS TANK sending unit question
Re: '69 442 grille and stuff
RE: GAS TANK sending unit question
RE: TH-2004R Questions
Re: Power vrs. Vacuum
Re: Crankscrapers
Re: GAS TANK sending unit question
Re: Single to Dual exhaust
Re: Crankscrapers
Re: rear end question
Re: GAS TANK sending unit question
Re: GAS TANK sending unit question
Re: Valve covers and Tach
Re: Valve covers and Tach
Re: Color Scheme
Re: Valve covers and Tach
Re: Single to Dual exhaust
Re: Power vrs. Vacuum
Re: Crankscrapers
Re: rear end question
Re: OVERHEATING?
Re: Hot engine problem (follow-up)
Re: Crankscrapers
RE: Re[2]: Axle Ratio
Re: rear end question
Re: Non-remote mirrors (the fix)
OCA Nationals
Re: Color Scheme
Re: '66 Cutlass Convertible gas tank
Re: Valve covers and Tach
Sending Unit/Bumper Bolts

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 09:10:02 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Power vrs. Vacuum

I have had many people asked me lately if 69 cutlass has power trunk or if
it has vacuum, I have read most of my books on this and have not been able
to determine the answer.
So I would like assistance form the list on this.  Do any of you who have a
69 cutlass have power trunk or vacuum trunk?
If it is power what shape is the lock and solenoid mechanism?
If you have vacuum can you describe your trunk opening button or switch?

Thanks

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
1970 442 Convertible
1970 Cutlass W- 31 4 gear
1970 Rallye 350
1970 Cutlass Convertible ( 13.4 et)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 09:22:01 -0500 (EST)
From: The Sugarmans <sugarman@berkshire.net>
Subject: Edelbrock

Correction:  carb from Parts America is Edlebrock - electric choke.

Still want to know if anyone has had any experience with it.

Thanks,
Don Sugarman


sugarman@berkshire.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 08:29:50 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Re: Eldenback (?) Carb

Don,

Ive got the same carb (with electric choke) that I used on my 70 350
Firebird and am using on the new ride (68 442 with a 68-72? 455), the plate
I'm using I got at Supershops and is a cast aluminum platethat adapts to
the spreadbore intake. It is tapered down from the carb out to the intake
ports. I had to use a universal adapter plate to hook up a modified linkage
bracket. I made sure to use a gasket between each layer and it works great
for my basically stock motor. Plenty of clearance and great performance!

Just my $.02

Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 08:35:51 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Re: Color Scheme

>My Interior is Marroon and I want to
>paint the car over.

My 68 has the "Maroon" interior , actually called Garnet for 68. Hard to
find, but cool with the original exterior Red color. I really like the
combo and plan on keeping this color scheme when I can afford to start
re-doing (sp?) the interior.

Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 09:48:53 EST
From: J2ROCKET <J2ROCKET@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RPORTER: 55 Olds Hard Starting

    Hello RPORTER, I am reading through some of the posts (late) and was
wondering if you ever solved the hot cranking problem on your 55 Olds. You
might want to check your ignition resistor cranking bypass system. On your
starter solinoid switch, there is a terminal marked "R". This terminal is
mechanicly operated and becomes hot only while the engine is cranking over to
bypass the ignition ballast resistor. This feature feeds full available
battery voltage to the ignition while cranking, when the engine needs it the
most due to starter amperage draw, especially when hot and following a 10 to
45 minute "hot soak" shutdown period of time.
      The idea is to make sure that this circuit is working, and make sure
that someone has NOT hooked this wire to the wrong side of the resistor. It
must be connected to the OUT side of the resistor or directly to the same
terminal that your  distributor lead in wire is on. Try this unless some of
the other solutions that were posted solved this for you.
       J2 ROCKET
   57 OLDS SUPER 88
   55 OLDS SUPER 88

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 09:51:40 +0000
From: "Rick" <Richardc@equitrac.com>
Subject: Re: Edelbrock

I use the Edlelbrock 750 cfm carb manual choke and I installed 2 650
cfm electric chokes on my friends cars..If I can help let me know.
1964 Olds 442 F-85
1987 Monte Carlo SS
Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 10:20:40 EST
From: StafRT007 <StafRT007@aol.com>
Subject: TH-2004R Questions

What do you know about the high performance built 2004r's available from TCI,
whats the difference between those equiped with a lock-up converter vs. a non-
lock up and which one should I use, Can you modify a factory console shifter
for use with this transmission?

Thanks for the help,

Ryan
70 F-85

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 10:07:04 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Engine Possibility?

>I was doing some math, and figured out that if you put 403 pistons in a
>455, you'd get a 506!! This has to be possible, doesn't it? A 350 block
>is the same as a 403 block, and aren't SB's and BB's almost the same? A
>455 has to be able to take that much overbore if a 350 can, right? Or
>are the wall thicknesses really different?

heh... yeah, this idea rattled around in my head for a while...

1) There is no way that the 403 pistons will fit inside the 455 block. The
425/455 has a relatively small 4.125" bore; the 403 has a whopping 4.35"
bore. The maximum bore that the 455 block is usually allowed is 4.25";
another .100" is like a mile, in cylinder overboring terms.

2) A 350 block has the same deck height and journal sizes as the 403 block,
but the configuration of the cylinder bores is entirely different. The 403
has siamesed cylinders, with no water passages between them, to accomondate
the larger bore, so you can't just call a 403 an overbored 350. The wall
thicknesses are really different.

Now, that having been said, the primary difference between the big and
small block crankcases is the main bearing journal size; the oil pan rails
and the camshaft position are the same. It's theoretically possible to cut
down the rod and main journals of a big-block 425's crank to the
small-block size (though it's a rather severe cut), which brings you into
the 475-500ci range.

There are a few problems here, though:

* Cutting down the crank that much might severely weaken it.
* The windowed mains of the 403 block call into question the strength of
the block.
* It's questionable whether the iron in the crankcase could stand the
necessary clearancing to fit the 425 crank as it spins those rods around
there.
* You'd need completely custom pistons so the 425's crank isn't sticking
the pistons an inch past the heads.

Now, on paper, it works. In reality, you're looking at $1500 (at least) in
parts, and who knows how much machine work, to try this experiment on a 403
shortblock. And I wouldn't even consider it, unless I were starting with a
solid-main 403 block (or else that could become a very expensive
ex-experiment!)
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 10:21:43 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: RE: Eldenback (?) Carb

>is a solid performer for street use.  As for it being a Holley with an
>Eldebrock name plate - NO.  It is an all Eldebrock design and
>manufacture.

I was under the impression that it was a revision of the Carter AFB;
Edelbrock does offer a Q-jet under their own name, though. Nice thing is
they also offer tuning kits for the same.

Now, that being said, does anyone know if some dedicated carb places (The
Carb Shop, Mike Jones, et al.) offer similar tuning kits? I don't have any
of their catalogs, but was wondering what others had heard.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 10:28:10 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: OVERHEATING?

>So, anyway, I just got my car back, and now I'm having overheating
 [snip]
>patience, this is what I'm going to check out:
>
>Lift valve cover to see if oil and coolant are mixing (please, no!)
>Check for proper fan clutch operation
>Check for kinked hoses
>Replace water pump

For peace of mind, I'd add a compression test to that, as well as a
pressure test of the cooling system. 403's will blow head gaskets, and that
will cause overheating.

>Now, the car just made a 2700 mile journey cross country, so I believe
>that head gaskets are cool.

Maybe were. The gasket could have blown across cylinders, so you may not
see anything abnormal in the coolant.

>Fan clutch problem is likely, the fan was making odd groaning noises a
>couple days ago

That would be the prime suspect if it overheated in town; if it's
overheating on the highway, the fan clutch would have nothing to do with it.

>The water pump was replaced when the old one decided to go out in Wakeeny
>Kansas during the Power Tour last summer.  So, I'd imagine it'd still be
>good.  I drove the car for the rest of the summer, then not again till
>just now.  It's only got maybe 6000 miles on it.

The water pump is not the first culprit, though it would be on the list if
nothing else checks out.

>Is there anything else I should check (besides coolant level, that's cool)

When I rebuilt my 403, it started overheating due to a vacuum leak (did a
hose fall off somewhere?). One other possibility is that some extra
silicone sealant has broken free and is clogging up some passage. Backflush
the entire system, and see if anything changes.

>Ray finally driving the 409 Rocket at 230 degrees again Costanzo

Sorry to hear about all the trouble you've seen. Maybe see if one of your
carb passages or jets is clogged, and is causing you to run lean. Also try
adjusting your ignition advance to something like stock (around 16' BTDC)
and see if that changes anything. I need to run 93 octane with that
setting, but it runs better. Also, is your vacuum advance functional?

Let us know how it turns out.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 10:34:47 -0500 (EST)
From: earthsci@pop.usit.net
Subject: Re: Holley Carbs  (Another question)

At 02:22 AM 1/22/98 -0500, you wrote:
>BIG JERMES wrote:
>
>> hey, if any of you guys are running a holley, what size?  jet sizes?  i got 
a
>> holley quadrajet replacement carb in my garage, and i was thinking about
using

>
>I'm going to be running an 800cfm spreadbore double-pumper (list 6211) on
my 468
>BB Chevy.  I recently bought a Trick Kit from Holley for the carb which is a




As a side note, I have a question for the group:

I recently purchased a '68 442 project with a 455 (not original engine)
under the hood. The engine is not currently running and has a old carb. from
a small block Chevy sitting on it (literally, it's not even bolted on).

I anticipate that I'll need to either have the old one rebuilt or purchase a
new carb. designed for this engine.  I'm leaning towards the latter and am
considering a Holley. Given the engine is not original for the car,
originality with engine repair is not a major issue for me.

Assuming this engine is stock, what size in cfm is best? i.e. 600, 650, or
750 cfm? In the event the engine needs rebuilding, I'll go back generally
stock, although may beef up the cam for a little fun.

Any and all suggestions are most appreciated. Also, I am not dead set on
Holley. Are there any other brands or types?



By the way, I'm going to need some replacement headlight "bezels?" for the
car.  Anybody know where a good set is available or if any of the parts
houses carry these?

Thanks in advance


Chris Casteel

earthsci@usit.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 11:22:16 +0000
From: "Joe Gerschutz" <gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu>
Subject: Re: Single to Dual Exhaust

I'm going to shoot my old lady cause I caught her messin around with
another man!

> Hey Joe where are you going with that gu in your hand?



- --------------------------------------------------
- ---Joe Gerschutz------------------------------
- ---University of Dayton----------------------
- ---gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu--------
- --------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 11:33:22 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: GAS TANK sending unit question

Does anyone out there know why my 442 has two lines coming out of the sending
unit on the gas tank, and the one I pulled from a 69cutlass only has one line.

And do I need to swap sending units, or will it function properly with one
line?

Thanks,

Aaron

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 11:30:30 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Power vrs. Vacuum

In a message dated 98-01-22 09:31:50 EST, you write:

<< I have had many people asked me lately if 69 cutlass has power trunk or if
 it has vacuum, I have read most of my books on this and have not been able
 to determine the answer.
 So I would like assistance form the list on this.  Do any of you who have a
 69 cutlass have power trunk or vacuum trunk?
 If it is power what shape is the lock and solenoid mechanism?
 If you have vacuum can you describe your trunk opening button or switch? >>


My 69 442 had vacuum on it, the lines are still there, but we removed the lock
years ago to put an electric power release in instead.  Don't recall if we
saved the lock mechanism, it may be buried in the garage somewhere.

Aaron

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 11:36:14 -0500
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: Axle Ratio

O.k. so for each set of gears you listed, did GM (OLDS) use a different
axle/diff.? According to my chassis manual nothing is said about that.


Fernando Proietto
A/Manager
Systems Analyst - Informatics Division
Environment Canada
Atmospheric Environment Branch - Ontario Region
4905 Dufferin St.
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: Trevor Lee[SMTP:lee@mergetel.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 22, 1998 2:05 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Axle Ratio
>
> > good basis to start from . Maybe next year I will change the
> gearing. I
> > want 3.73 but I'm not sure it will fit my carrier. I think there
> might
> > be a limit as to the size of gear and the carrier. Anyone know more
> on
> > this, please jump in...
> > Fernando Proietto
>
> Fernando, if I'm not mistaken, the following are the 3 sets of
> gear/carrier
> sizes in standard GM axles:
>
> - 2.73 and below
> - 3.08 to 3.73
> - 3.90 and up
>
> So what I gather judging on what I've been told by various people (and
> even
> some GM dealers) is that you won't be able to put gears from the
> 3.08-3.73
> range into the 2.73 carrier.  No real biggie, just change the carrier
> too -
> get a whole nice new aftermarket unit from Auburn Gear or something
> like
> that.
> --
> Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
> 468 BigBlock '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
> http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
> mailto:lee@mergetel.com
> Welland, Ontario, Canada
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 11:34:46 -0500
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: Axle Ratio

I've see that too. But I don't want to make the mistake of ordering and
finding out it won't fit after I've tried putting it in. My question
would be, did Olds use a different 10-bolt carrier (diff) to house 3.73
gears or was it the same just different ring & pinion?

Fernando Proietto
A/Manager
Systems Analyst - Informatics Division
Environment Canada
Atmospheric Environment Branch - Ontario Region
4905 Dufferin St.
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: Jason Adcock[SMTP:jadcock@vt.edu]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 1998 6:33 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Axle Ratio
>
> Proietto, Fernando [Ontario] wrote:
> >
> > want 3.73 but I'm not sure it will fit my carrier. I think there
> might
> > be a limit as to the size of gear and the carrier. Anyone know more
> on
> > this, please jump in...
>
> I've seen (in Summit, etc) that they have all ratios for all
> carriers.  For instance, I don't know what year axle or car we're
> talking about here, but they have say a 3.73 gear for "either a
> 3.08 or numerically lower or a 3.23 or numerically higher
> carrier".  I got that out of the most recent Jegs catalog.
>
> +---------------------------------------------------------------+
> |__    ________|
> |\ \  / __  __/Jason Adcock|
> | \ \/ / / /CS Major, Virginia Tech|
> |  \  / / /mailto:jadcock@vt.edu|
> |   \/ /_/http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/|
> ||
> +---------------------------------------------------------------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 11:03:48 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Non-olds (F*rd)

Jeremy,

Consider checking that distributor again.  Those have a plastic case bolted
to the top that has the cap attached to it.  I have seen these get broken or
cracked and destroy your fire to the plugs.  You might check the whole gray
plastic upper portion.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible


>
>Sorry about the non-olds question but, I was wondering if any of you
>have ever dealt with something like this:

<snip>

 does anyone have a clue as to what could be going wrong.  It just
>acts like it is totally flooded out.
>
>Jeremy "Sqk 'Em Off" Elder
>University of Nebraska-Lincoln
>'82 Cutlass, 455
>'86 Cougar, 302
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 11:47:43 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Valve covers and Tach

padavano.joe wrote:
>
>      They may not be the same casting, but they are functionally the same -
the >      330 and 350 are dimensionally the same (as are all small block Olds 
>
motors, including the 260, 307, and 403).

Anyone read the recent Car Craft (Feb. 1998)?  Someone asked if
they could put a 4-bbl. 330 or a 350 intake on a 260.  The ed.
said that the 260's "heads' intake-manifold sealing surface is
scalloped out on the bottom, so it won't seal properly to
standard Olds small block intakes.  He suggested to put 5A 307
heads on...but he said 80-84 442 heads...shame, shame!

Did anyone know this about the 260 heads?  I thought ALL Olds
small block stuff was interchangeable.  Well, I learned
something.

+---------------------------------------------------------------+
|__    ________|
|\ \  / __  __/Jason Adcock|
| \ \/ / / /CS Major, Virginia Tech|
|  \  / / /mailto:jadcock@vt.edu|
|   \/ /_/http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/|
||
+---------------------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 11:58:21 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Single to Dual exhaust

Robert Yasczak wrote:
>
> [snip about Robert's cat-back exhaust]

Robert, was the exhaust you ordered through Olds the stock one
they put on G-Body H/O's and 442's?  I looked at that, but
decided it was too expensive for me, so I kinda pieced it
together myself.

I went with an Edelbrock crossflow muffler (F-Body style) and
used the stock pipe back to the muffler.  The muffler sits
sideways (stock location) and has an outlet on each side
(passenger's and driver's side).  I took it to Midas and they
bent two pipes to go out either side, behind the wheels (again,
stock location).  The whole thing sits up nicely underneath the
car and the only tip-off that the thing isn't an Olds exhaust is
the tailpipes aren't cut 45 degrees at the end (I'd really
complete the system if they were cut!).  Anyway, the whole thing
cost about $350 (the muffler was $180) and sounds REAL nice.  I
don't necessarily like the sound of Flowmaster or Dynamax because
they use the volume to impress those outside the car.  I really
like the Edelbrock because it has a real quality throaty
Oldsmobile sound to it  It sounds a lot like Greg Pruett's
monster VC, although a little quieter!  A friend who was driving
it one time told me that it sounded like her sister's 5.0
Mustang.  I _guess_ that's a compliment... ~I~ took it as a
compliment.  Nevertheless, I'd like to get that Olds system one
day, just because it'll sound like a 442 of the 80's.

+---------------------------------------------------------------+
|__    ________|
|\ \  / __  __/Jason Adcock|
| \ \/ / / /CS Major, Virginia Tech|
|  \  / / /mailto:jadcock@vt.edu|
|   \/ /_/http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/|
||
+---------------------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 12:04:45 +0500
From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Subject: Re: TH-2004R Questions

>What do you know about the high performance built 2004r's available from TCI,

The Buick Turbo Regal webpage has a lot of good info on 2004Rs.  There may
be some help there:

http://ni.umd.edu/gnttype/www/

>whats the difference between those equiped with a lock-up converter vs. a non-
>lock up and which one should I use

The lock up converters have a clutch in them that engages once the car is
cruising to increase mileage and reduce heat in the transmission by
eliminating torque converter slippage.  The torque converter clutch works
just like a manual transmission clutch when it's engaged.  When it's
dis-engaged the converter acts just like any other converter.  They have an
added advantage in that you can use a high-stall converter and still get
decent mileage.

The lockup is activated by computer in stock applications but you swap the
tranny into an older car (i.e. no computer) the lockup can still be
activated.  It's just a matter of applying 12 volts to the correct pins in
the little electrical connector on the transmission case.  There are kits
availible that will lock up the converter automatically for you when the
tranny is in overdrive, but you can get away with just having a toggle
switch somewhere that you can turn on yourself when you want lockup.  You
just have to remember to turn it off when you don't need it.

Most of the time the lockup converter is the way to go.  The non-lockup  are
more for serious drag strip cars because they're lighter.  They save some
weight and are less stress on the input shaft of the tranny  but unless
there's serious horsepower involved they're not neccesary.

> Can you modify a factory console shifter
>for use with this transmission?

With any luck it should work with a little linkage adjustment.  That's all
the column shifter in my Vista Cruiser needed when I swapped the 2004R in.
You might need to modify the detent plate to get the shifter to move far
enough to manually shift into low, but I didn't have to and I haven't heard
of anyone needing to do that yet.  My gear indicator is slightly off since
there's no symbol for overdrive.  "Park",. "R" and "N" work fine but it
reads "D" for overdrive, "S" for drive, "L" for second gear, and it'll just
slide off the scale for low gear.  I would think that you'll get similar
results, can't say for sure though.

Good luck,

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cultass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 12:21:54 EST
From: Mikey tvb <Mikeytvb@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Crankscrapers

what do you need a crankscraper for anyways?  if the engine is spinning the
oil will get flung off the crank anyways.....don't you think so?  come on now
it doesn't take a genuss to figure that out, only a 17 year old boy.

mikey tvb@aol.com
cutlass w/403

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 09:28:10 -0800
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: GAS TANK sending unit question

Aaron,
>
> Does anyone out there know why my 442 has two lines coming out of the sending
> unit on the gas tank, and the one I pulled from a 69cutlass only has one 
line.
>
> And do I need to swap sending units, or will it function properly with one
> line?

I believe you got a 70+ gas tank probably.  They had a return line for
vapor I
think.

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 12:44:25 EST
From: BIG JERMES <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: TH-2004R Questions

In a message dated 98-01-22 10:46:32 EST, you write:

<< What do you know about the high performance built 2004r's available from
TCI,
 whats the difference between those equiped with a lock-up converter vs. a
non-
 lock up and which one should I use, Can you modify a factory console shifter
 for use with this transmission? >>

i have a factory console and shifter in one of my '67 442s along with a 2004r
tranny.  works just fine.  the shifter may not have that extra notch in it,
but the linkage inside the transmission pretty much makes up for it. (doesnt
pop out of gear or whatever)  not too sure about the tci trannys, but i am
using a lockup converter on mine.  gets about 16-17mpg with a 461.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 12:04:06 -0600
From: Eric & Rosi & Jonathon <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: GAS TANK sending unit question

From what I can guess, the difference could be:

1) There is a low-fuel light for one car..

2) The gages / senders work differently (One uses a ground-resistance to
measure the fuel level {One wire}, while the other one uses a
pass-through-resistance to measure fuel level {two wires}.)

One way to tell is to ground-out the wire going to the tank.  On the
one-wire gage, this will cause it to read FULL , and it will read EMPTY
when you disconnect the wire (No resistance , Infinite resistance ) This
will work opposite on a two-wire gauge / sender..

OF COURSE, if you ran the wire for the gauge through the volume control
on the radio, you could probably decide how much gas you had at any
time, but then you'd have way too much time on your hands..

Of course, there is always the chance that I got my explanation
backwards, or that I'm just plain wrong (I had fuel gauges explained to
me by someone who is quite knowledgable, and I tested the above
mentioned ideas once, so it's possible I could be somewhat correct....)



AARONLIFE wrote:
>
> Does anyone out there know why my 442 has two lines coming out of the sending
> unit on the gas tank, and the one I pulled from a 69cutlass only has one 
line.
>
> And do I need to swap sending units, or will it function properly with one
> line?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Aaron

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 12:58:13 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: '69 442 grille and stuff

Dan,

The 442 grills were in fact black on the slats with silver aroud sides and
bottom
Headlight bezels are silver with black on facing (area that headlight come
thru)

Hope this helps.

Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 13:04:21 -0500
From: "VanSant, David CWO" <DVanSant@lantd5.uscg.mil>
Subject: RE: GAS TANK sending unit question

Aaron,

It is probably (Dr Bob, et al correct me if needed) that you have a
fuel pick-up and vapor return system.  Did your 4-4-2 come with a
charcoal vapor cannister?  If it did, then you will have one line
running to the fuel pump and one to the vapor cannister.  You will also
find one running from the carburetor to the vapor cannister to complete
the loop.  As to running properly, being a pre-smog motor without any of
the new fancy computer inputs, yes it will, but you will need to cap off
the second line to prevent contamination (i.e. condensation, dirt, etc.)
from entering the fuel system.

Dave

>----------
>From: AARONLIFE[SMTP:AARONLIFE@aol.com]
>Sent: Thursday, 1998 January, 22 11:33 14:21
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: GAS TANK sending unit question
>
>Does anyone out there know why my 442 has two lines coming out of the sending
>unit on the gas tank, and the one I pulled from a 69cutlass only has one
>line.
>
>And do I need to swap sending units, or will it function properly with one
>line?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Aaron
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 13:15:46 -0500
From: "VanSant, David CWO" <DVanSant@lantd5.uscg.mil>
Subject: RE: TH-2004R Questions

Ryan,

The hi-po TH 200-R4's from TCI as pretty much bullet proof.  As far as
which type to use will depend on your application.  Is this for a street
machine or something for the drag strip?  TCI's service rep's can help
you answer that question.  TCI should also be able to help you with a
linkage kit so you can keep the stock console and shifter.  One thing
you may have overlooked though, is with an unlike transmission swap,
what is the difference in overall length, crossmember placement and any
custom drive shaft work.

Dave

>----------
>From: StafRT007[SMTP:StafRT007@aol.com]
>Sent: Thursday, 1998 January, 22 10:20 14:21
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: TH-2004R Questions
>
>What do you know about the high performance built 2004r's available from TCI,
>whats the difference between those equiped with a lock-up converter vs. a
>non-
>lock up and which one should I use, Can you modify a factory console shifter
>for use with this transmission?
>
>Thanks for the help,
>
>Ryan
>70 F-85
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 13:10:42 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Power vrs. Vacuum

In a message dated 98-01-22 09:31:50 EST, you write:

<< So I would like assistance form the list on this.  Do any of you who have a
 69 cutlass have power trunk or vacuum trunk?
 If it is power what shape is the lock and solenoid mechanism?
 If you have vacuum can you describe your trunk opening button or switch? >>

I have a 69 442 with very few options but one being the power trunk release.
It is vacuum operated. The button is mounted in the glove box and has vacuum
line running to a canister on the firewall. Other line from the button is
routed under carpet to trunk and up thru deck lid to vacuum release on latch.
Mine is definatley original installation and assembly manual confirms same
with
routing diagram.

This is invaluable soure of info if you can find one. If not I can offer a
copy (XEXOX)
for $ 45.00 plus shipping. (its about 3" thick)

Regards,
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 14:16:46 +0500
From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Subject: Re: Crankscrapers

>what do you need a crankscraper for anyways?  if the engine is spinning the
>oil will get flung off the crank anyways.....don't you think so?

Yeah, problem is, it gets slung *everywhere*, the sides and top of the
crankcase, connecting rods, piston undersides, whatever.  At low RPM it can
run back down in time, but as the RPM increases the engine needs more oil
flow so it can use all the help it can get.

I think it also helps efficiency since less oil on the crank means less
weight to have to sling around.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cultass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 14:23:36 EST
From: BIG JERMES <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: GAS TANK sending unit question

In a message dated 98-01-22 13:28:21 EST, you write:

<< I believe you got a 70+ gas tank probably.  They had a return line for
 vapor I >>

they came on '67s too.  just the 442s.  what you need is a fuel pump for a
442.  thats it.  well, you might also need to run another line to the front of
the car.  what it is, is a vapor return line.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 14:32:26 EST
From: BIG JERMES <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Single to Dual exhaust

In a message dated 98-01-22 13:31:10 EST, you write:

<< I went with an Edelbrock crossflow muffler (F-Body style) and
 used the stock pipe back to the muffler.  The muffler sits
 sideways (stock location) and has an outlet on each side
 (passenger's and driver's side).  I took it to Midas and they
 bent two pipes to go out either side, behind the wheels (again,
 stock location).  The whole thing sits up nicely underneath the
 car and the only tip-off that the thing isn't an Olds exhaust is
 the tailpipes aren't cut 45 degrees at the end  >>

i just got finished with my exhaust system on my '78 cutlass.  i put on
headers, dual hump crossmember, and had 2.5" pipes run with flowmaster 2
chambers.  the pipes are aluminized, and they exit in the factory locations,
also. (for a '80's 442).  i told the guy that put my pipes on to cut the tips
so they would look factory.  had it all done for about $350.  (i did the
headers and crossmember) headers were about $200.  that sucker takes attention
away from the mustang 5.0 sitting beside it now! no matter where i go now,
somebody wants to race!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 14:25:34 EST
From: BIG JERMES <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Crankscrapers

In a message dated 98-01-22 13:29:50 EST, you write:

<< what do you need a crankscraper for anyways?  if the engine is spinning the
 oil will get flung off the crank anyways.....don't you think so?  come on now
 it doesn't take a genuss to figure that out, only a 17 year old boy.
  >>

well, the scrapers are mounted right above where the crank comes out of the
oil.  it scrapes the oil off before it goes around far enough to sling it off.
sposed to aid horsepower, to a degree.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 14:54:14 -0500
From: talcarol@erie.net (Chris Kugler)
Subject: Re: rear end question

thats good for me... I have a 442.  I had no idea it was posi.  Then again
maybe it was an option and maybe I don't have posi.  I remember before I
got the car I had it up on racks and was checking the ratio but I don't
think both tires spinned when I turned the one.

Chris Kugler
talcarol@erie.net


>I know the 4-4-2s did, Chris - right now I'm running a 2.41 (ick) posi
>that my bro yanked from a '77 4-4-2.
>--
>Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
>468 BigBlock '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
>http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
>mailto:lee@mergetel.com
>Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 15:07:30 EST
From: RCKTPWR <RCKTPWR@aol.com>
Subject: Re: GAS TANK sending unit question

400 and up has return line...330 has 1 line. Same w/fuel pumps. 330 has 2
fittings--1 from tank,1 to carb.  400 has 3 fittings on fuel pump 1 from tank,
1 back to tank, 1 to carb.  This is how it is on 67 a-bodies. dont know about
350's. Hope this helps
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 15:21:21 -0500 (EST)
From: The Sugarmans <sugarman@berkshire.net>
Subject: Re: GAS TANK sending unit question


If we're talking about the hoses, not wires, and if what Chris said is
true, then shouldn't a single-line unit have a breathing gas cap and the
two line unit have non-breathing gas cap?

Don

sugarman@berkshire.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 15:30:01 -0500
From: Jim Hurd <jhurd@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: Re: Valve covers and Tach

At 11:18 PM 1/21/98 -0800, you wrote:
>padavano.joe wrote:
>>
>> I am wondering if anyone knows if a set of valve covers from a 350 will fit 
a
>> 330?
>>
>>      Yes, they will bolt on.
>>
>> Are the heads the same?
>>
>>      They may not be the same casting, but they are functionally the same
- - the
>>      330 and 350 are dimensionally the same (as are all small block Olds
>>      motors, including the 260, 307, and 403).
>>
>> Also I have never installed a tach does anyone have any pointers on how to
>> install one to my F-85?
>>
>>      Just three wires, right.  Power (+12v), ground, and distributor side
>>      of the coil.
>>
>>      Joe Padavano
>>      padavano.joe@orbital.com
>>
>>      66 442
>>      68 W-30
>>      69 H/O
>>      70 W-30
>
>
>On my Autogage tach it has 4 wires.  Red, white, black, and green.  I
>think red and white goto 12v power, black ground, and green to the
>distrubotr side of coil.
>
>Erik B.
>'72 Cutlass S
>

        On my JC Whitney special tach it has 4 wire too.  One is ground, one
is switched 12 volts, one is ignition(coil), and the other is for illumination.




Jim H.
'87 Salon

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 15:37:00 -0500
From: Jim Hurd <jhurd@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: Re: Valve covers and Tach

At 11:47 AM 1/22/98 -0500, you wrote:
>padavano.joe wrote:
>>
>>      They may not be the same casting, but they are functionally the same
- - the
>>      330 and 350 are dimensionally the same (as are all small block Olds
>>      motors, including the 260, 307, and 403).
>
>Anyone read the recent Car Craft (Feb. 1998)?  Someone asked if
>they could put a 4-bbl. 330 or a 350 intake on a 260.  The ed.
>said that the 260's "heads' intake-manifold sealing surface is
>scalloped out on the bottom, so it won't seal properly to
>standard Olds small block intakes.  He suggested to put 5A 307
>heads on...but he said 80-84 442 heads...shame, shame!
>
>Did anyone know this about the 260 heads?  I thought ALL Olds
>small block stuff was interchangeable.  Well, I learned
>something.
>
>+---------------------------------------------------------------+
>|__    ________|
>|\ \  / __  __/Jason Adcock|
>| \ \/ / / /CS Major, Virginia Tech|
>|  \  / / /mailto:jadcock@vt.edu|
>|   \/ /_/http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/|
>||
>+---------------------------------------------------------------+
>

        Yeah, I saw the article.  I've got a '79 Cutlass Sup. Brhm. with the
260 sitting outside, haven't figured out what to do with it yet.  We had the
manifold off of it a while back (bad gasket).  I can't remember what the
surfaces looked like though.  I too thought that all the small block parts
were interchangable.




Jim H.
'87 Salon

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 17:25:28 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Color Scheme

On Thu, 22 Jan 1998, Rick wrote:
> I have a delema and figured I would throw this out on the list and
> see what the responses are. My Interior is Marroon and I want to
> paint the car over. Any suggestions on color except for the plain
> colors like White and things like that I want it to be different.

The original color combos with a maroon interior for '64 were:

A- Ebony Black
C- Provincial White
D- Sheffield Mist (Blue? Gray? Silver? not sure)
L- Regal Mist (darker red)
R- Cashmere Beige
V- Holiday Red (brighter red)

I think I'd be partial to a metallic gold myself...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 15:31:25 -0600
From: "Dave Rench" <renchd@krause.com>
Subject: Re: Valve covers and Tach

From my understanding 330 and 350 heads are interchangeable, with only
possible problem being pushrod interference because of the cam bank angle
difference (39 degrees on the 350 and 45 on the 330).  Also I believe that
some or all of the (1) heads have a different rocker assembly.  I think you
will run into problems with the 403 heads on the 330 or 350, but then again
you probably wouldn't want them anyway due to the large combustion
chambers.  Intakes will interchange, I've installed a Performer RPM on a
'66 330 (3 heads) and it works fine with no leaks.

I had asked Joe Mondello about putting 350 heads on a '83 307 (which has
the 5A heads). He told me that it wouldn't work due to the difference in
bore dimensions.  He indicated that I would have sealing problems and
"water squirting everywhere".  I didn't try it so I can't speak from
experience.

Of course you could always put the Edelbrock Big Block Aluminum Heads on
350 Diesel block with a stroker crank and........... : )

Dave

- ----------
> From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Valve covers and Tach
> Date: Thursday, January 22, 1998 10:47 AM
>
> padavano.joe wrote:
> >
> >      They may not be the same casting, but they are functionally the
same - the
> >      330 and 350 are dimensionally the same (as are all small block
Olds
> >      motors, including the 260, 307, and 403).
>
> Anyone read the recent Car Craft (Feb. 1998)?  Someone asked if
> they could put a 4-bbl. 330 or a 350 intake on a 260.  The ed.
> said that the 260's "heads' intake-manifold sealing surface is
> scalloped out on the bottom, so it won't seal properly to
> standard Olds small block intakes.  He suggested to put 5A 307
> heads on...but he said 80-84 442 heads...shame, shame!
>
> Did anyone know this about the 260 heads?  I thought ALL Olds
> small block stuff was interchangeable.  Well, I learned
> something.
>
> +---------------------------------------------------------------+
> |__    ________|
> |\ \  / __  __/Jason Adcock|
> | \ \/ / / /CS Major, Virginia Tech|
> |  \  / / /mailto:jadcock@vt.edu|
> |   \/ /_/http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/|
> ||
> +---------------------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 16:30:46 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Yasczak <VJTD@grove.iup.edu>
Subject: Re: Single to Dual exhaust

The system that I used was the stock GM one.  There are the two
mufflers hanging under the rear floor boards and the tips are cut 45 degrees.
It sound s like my older big blocks.

Robb Yasczak vjtd@grove.iup.edu

1969 442
1969 Cutlass s
1976 442
1987 Cutlass Salon

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 16:41:29 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Power vrs. Vacuum

Robert Schinkel wrote:
>
> I have had many people asked me lately if 69 cutlass has power trunk or if
> it has vacuum, I have read most of my books on this and have not been able
> to determine the answer.

The '69 Cutlass had a vacuum operated trunk mechanism.  There is a
"huge" vacuum pod mounted on the back of the trunk latch.  As for the
button, it is a normally closed valve, basically a little black
pushbutton, which lets vacuum go to the trunk pod when pushed.  It is
mounted in the glovebox in the upper left of the opening.  The little
round black "vacuum canister" on the firewall was used in this
application for the vacuum reserve, regardless whether it had A/C or
not.

2 cents,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 16:59:57 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Crankscrapers

> what do you need a crankscraper for anyways?  if the engine is spinning the
> oil will get flung off the crank anyways.....don't you think so?

True, not needed for street.  BUT, at VERY HIGH RPM, such as in race
type situations, the oil is spinning with the crank at very high rpm
also.  Some detail is needed here to fully explain with fluid
dynamics/friction/cohesion, so instead, I'll try to keep it short.

Basically, as the engine spins, the oil is slung out around it.  Up,
down, sideways, all over.  As the crank speeds up, more and more of this
oil is "caught" by the couterweights.  It effect gets a high speed merry
go round ride on the weights. It still flies off again in the up
direction, and when it's on its way down again, BAP!  Right back into
the crank.  Imagine spraying a paddle wheel going one way with a jet
stream of water going in the opposite direction.  Fluid braking is the
effect.  The oil flying around in the crankcase also will "wrap around"
the crank, due to its cohesion, increasing these "windage" losses.
i.e., power drain.  It is believed these losses can be reduced by using
oil scrapers to "clean" the counterweights, and minimize oil slung
upward, and beveling the leading edge of the counterweights to "cut
through" any oil trying to impede forward progress of the weights.

While not really a concern for street engines, every horsepower that can
be squeezed from a race engine ultimately means quicker times.

Did this make any sense??

2 cents,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 17:33:09 -0500
From: Gerald Hughes <ghughes@hughesconsulting.com>
Subject: Re: rear end question

Loris,
If your 79 had a posi, then I would have to believe it was a
transplant, becuase NO 1979 Cutlasses came with POSI.  They were all ls.

Gerald Hughes





loris wrote:
>
> Chris Kugler wrote:
> >
> > Did 77 Cutlass's come with a posi rear end?
> >
> > Chris Kugler
> > talcarol@erie.net
>
>  My 1979 Cutlass had one.
>
> -Loris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 17:23:46 -0500
From: Gerald Hughes <ghughes@hughesconsulting.com>
Subject: Re: OVERHEATING?

Ray,
In regards to your fan clutch, I would strongly recommend installing a
flex fan....It will keep that baby cool as a cucumber...And even if the
fan is not the true problem, you may want to consider doing it anyway.
Only takes about 1/2 hour to 1 hour.

Gerald Hughes









Ray wrote:
>
> So, anyway, I just got my car back, and now I'm having overheating
> problems.  Any suggestions will be appreciated.
> At first I thought it was just the thermostat sticking because the temp
> was fluxuating around eratically and occasionally settling on 180 (thermo
> temp) and then jumping around some more.  So I just removed it to see.
> That was not it.  After seeing this I just went in the house and cranked
> up music and felt frustrated.  Nothing can ever be the simplest cheapest
> solution.  I just rebuilt the engine and wsa anticipating at least one
> month aggrivation free, that's all I ask for!  But, when i gain some
> patience, this is what I'm going to check out:
>
> Lift valve cover to see if oil and coolant are mixing (please, no!)
> Check for proper fan clutch operation
> Check for kinked hoses
> Replace water pump
>
> Now, the car just made a 2700 mile journey cross country, so I believe
> that head gaskets are cool.
> Kinked lower radiator hose is too simple to hope for
> Fan clutch problem is likely, the fan was making odd groaning noises a
> couple days ago
>
> The water pump was replaced when the old one decided to go out in Wakeeny
> Kansas during the Power Tour last summer.  So, I'd imagine it'd still be
> good.  I drove the car for the rest of the summer, then not again till
> just now.  It's only got maybe 6000 miles on it.
>
> Is there anything else I should check (besides coolant level, that's cool)
> ?
> Anyone who wants to help this shattered dreams individual is cool.
>
> Ray finally driving the 409 Rocket at 230 degrees again Costanzo
> 87 409 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 17:18:16 -0500
From: "John Richmond" <richmond@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Hot engine problem (follow-up)

> >
> > It is probably the front body mounts either one fell out or just
> > setteling from old age. happened to me once.
>
>
Given what was said above. Being that the car is currently on blocks,
maybe the front of the car is sagging causing the fan to touch the
top of the shroud.
Also, this didn't happen till I put it on blocks. What do you guys think.

John Richmond
richmond@tir.com   or   jwr10@chrysler.com
Warren, MI
72 442/455

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 16:22:35 -0600 (CST)
From: Jeremy Lloyd Elder <jelder1@bigred.unl.edu>
Subject: Re: Crankscrapers


> what do you need a crankscraper for anyways?  if the engine is spinning the
> oil will get flung off the crank anyways.....don't you think so?  come on now
> it doesn't take a genuss to figure that out, only a 17 year old boy.
>
Well it takes an 18 year-old (almost a genius) to tell you that oil
doesn't just get flung off of the crankshaft.  From articles that I've
read there is usually atleast a quart of oil wrapped up in the
crankshaft. When you have something spinning, like a crankshaft, quite
a bit of oil can be held there tightly.  If you don't believe me look
in Jeg's.  I think that's the first place I saw them.  I don't know
how effective they are but if they can take excess oil off of the
crank and reduce friction in other places then you will get more power
from your engine.  A better and more reliable alternative would simply
be to increase your oil capacity with a bigger pan.  But then again,
what do I know?

Jeremy "Sqk 'Em Off" Elder
University of Nebraska-Lincoln
Mechanical Engineering
'82 Cutlass, 455
'86 Cougar, 302

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 17:08:07 -0500
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: Re[2]: Axle Ratio

So does this mean that GM produced different sized 10 and 12 bolt
differentials?  O.K. I have 2.73 gears in a 10-bolt. If I want to get to
3.73 gears, which ones do I order, the 3 series or 4 series gears? My
'72 chassis manual does not mentioned anything about differential sizes.
I would assume that all the O-type differentials were standard.


Fernando Proietto
A/Manager
Systems Analyst - Informatics Division
Environment Canada
Atmospheric Environment Branch - Ontario Region
4905 Dufferin St.
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: padavano.joe[SMTP:padavano.joe@Orbital.COM]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 1998 8:50 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re[2]: Axle Ratio
>
>
> Fernando Proietto asked:
>
> ..I want 3.73 but I'm not sure it will fit my carrier. I think there
> might be a limit as to the size of gear and the carrier. Anyone know
> more on this, please jump in...
>
>      Fernando,
>
>      I don't know about the later axles, but the 10- and 12-bolt
> carriers
>      come in two flavors, 3-series and 4-series.  The difference is in
> the
>      dimension from the mounting face of the ring gear to the pinion
>      centerline.  The higher-numerical ratios (I think the limit is
> 3.73
>      and up, but I'm not quite sure) use a 4-series carrier.  These
> ratios
>      require a smaller diameter pinion gear, since the max number of
> teeth
>      on the ring gear is pretty much fixed, to achieve the proper
> ratio.
>      This results in the need to move the ring gear closer to the
> pinion
>      centerline.
>
>      Gear vendors have been putting 4-series gears in 3-series
> carriers for
>      years by using a ring-shaped spacer under the ring gear.  The
> problem
>      with this is that the carrier-to-ring gear bolts, which normally
> are
>      loaded in shear, now also see a significant bending load due to
> this
>      spacer.  Higher strength bolts can be used to overcome this
> concern.
>
>      Some gear vendors have also been making 4-series gears with
> thicker
>      blanks - basically making the spacer an integral part of the
> gear.
>      This, of course, eliminates the problem of additional bolt
> bending.
>      These are the gear sets you see advertised as "4.11:1 - for
> 3-series
>      carriers only".
>
>      Joe Padavano
>      padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>      66 442
>      68 W-30
>      69 H/O
>      70 W-30
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 16:34:48 -0600
From: "Samuel E. Johnson, Jr" <cutlass403@ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: rear end question

My Dad had a 1977 GMO Cutlass with a posi. He had requested it with the
403 motor.

loris wrote:

> Chris Kugler wrote:
> >
> > Did 77 Cutlass's come with a posi rear end?
> >
> > Chris Kugler
> > talcarol@erie.net
>
>  My 1979 Cutlass had one.
>
> -Loris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 16:23:00 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Re: Non-remote mirrors (the fix)

>Here is how to get loose that frozen allen-head retaining bolt!
>(the way that I did it a few months ago)

What happens when the allen head sockets are stripped out...WAAAAAA!

Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 18:02:02 -0500
From: "deirdre. reilly" <102724.635@compuserve.com>
Subject: OCA Nationals

Karl Aune and Soylent Ocean Mist wrote:
<<1965 Dynamic 88 Celebrity Sedan

<<Members; OCA & IVOC

<<Plan Ahead! make your hotel reservations in Springfield, IL for the Olds
<<Nationals!

I ALREADY DID!!  I beleive I got the 2nd to last room available in the
Crowne Plaza Hotel.  (The hotel next door should still have rooms
available.)
Also sent in my registration for the show.

However two things stand in my way to showing up at this event:
1.  Getting the Cutlass completed in time (new tranny, motor, and paint).

2.  Being a recent college grad, I'm still looking for a permanent job.  If
I get one in the near future I might not be able to take my vacation until
I've put in the specified amount of time (ususally 6 months>.

I'm begining to push my luck.  Hopefully I'll see you all there.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'83 Cutlass Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 18:22:25 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: Color Scheme

Rick wrote:
>
> I have a delema and figured I would throw this out on the list and
> see what the responses are. My Interior is Marroon and I want to
> paint the car over. Any suggestions on color except for the plain
> colors like White and things like that I want it to be different.

Well....

1. There's a Darker Shade of Purple, with either a metallic or a
pearl...  It'll accent either the car, or the interior....

2. Pearl White.

3. A color I'm told is "Black Cherry"  Where it is a black gloss and a
red pearl with a slight metallic mixed into the paint itself, and then a
red pearl over top of the black, and a clearcoat over it all...  It's an
AWESOME color.  A firend of mine has it on his 85 Regal, and I am really
impressed...  At some angles, it looks black as black gets, yet shiny,
and then at some angles it looks DEEEEEEEP Red, but not flaky red, red
with depth.

Ran all kinds of "paint ideas" for my 77 Mustang, I liked the Black
Cherry idea, it is something you don't see often, or even remotely
often, definitely a one of a kind paint scheme.  It works well with red
interiors, black interiors, dark red interiors, and Black and Red Vinyl
tops.  If you got a dark interior, and vinyl, or convertible that's
dark, you'd be suprized...  I haven't been able to get a pic that shows
the effect of the paint, or the color....  You either get a black car,
or a reddish car, isn't real photogenic.
- --
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
- - Here we go Steelers!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 17:19:48 -0600
From: Eric & Rosi & Jonathon <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: '66 Cutlass Convertible gas tank

Cold air in some cases does give you more power.

This I have assumed is true because cold air is denser, so:

1)  The difference in Volume at intake and Burning temperature is more,
so you get more expansion (which is the key to movement)
2)  You get more Oxegyn into the cylinder simply because the air is
heavier.

Unfortunately, I don't have a clue if this is really true...
(Ski-Doo engines have WAY more power at -30 Celcius than -5 Celcius I
know)

IRONMAN wrote:
>
> Hey look Rocketpower is back. Congrats!
>
> Just want to let ya all know the pocket rocket is running extremely well in
> this cold weather, must add 10 or 15 horse to her from the cold air. is it
> right that cold air means horsepower?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 18:36:00 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: Valve covers and Tach

Erik wrote:

> On my Autogage tach it has 4 wires.  Red, white, black, and green.  I
> think red and white goto 12v power, black ground, and green to the
> distrubotr side of coil.

White is dash board lights.
- --
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
- - Here we go Steelers!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 18:51:00 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Sending Unit/Bumper Bolts

Ok,

Sounds like I ought to swap sending units from my original gas tank to the
new/old one from the 69 cutlass.  I am going to Year One so I guess I can pick
up a new gasket, and new sending unit filter, and probably a new lock ring too
in case the old one gets damaged.

Which brings me to my next question, they 'had to' destroy the old bumper
bolts when they took off my bumper to be straightened and rechromed (looks so
beautiful now!!!).  Has anyone used Year One's bumper bolts - they tell me
they are polished aluminum, I think, not chromed.

If they aren't good, I could 'try' to get some chrome ones off of some bumpers
in the junkyard, but might be more trouble than it's worth.

By the way, they discovered my left rear quarter had already been replaced,
sometime in the 70's I guess, has been in a couple wrecks before, I found the
original GM sticker from the replacement quarter after they cut it off.

They welded the rear-end of the frame I had cut off of the 69 4-door onto the
back of mine, so I have a strong frame that you can't twist with your hands
anymore!!

The worst rust they said they've ever seen (Georgia has it lucky, there are 50
year old cars in the junkyard that are probably more solid than the back end
of this one was).

aaron

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª1068
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