
oldsmobile-digest      Saturday, January 3 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1038



Re: New Radio for Cutlass
Re: New Radio for Cutlass
Lead, '70 Cutlass S (fwd)
Lead, '70 Cutlass S (fwd)
Re: '69 Convert Quarters
Re: Torkey 403
Re: Mileage from a 455
Re: Engine Question?
Re: 1966 442 Trans Growl
Re: Intake Manifold Update
Panel Flanger(was Re: '69 Convert Quarters)
Re:       Olds URLS wanted for Web Page
Who has a web site?
olds parts
Re: Who has a web site?
UNBOUNCE: '68 Delta Parts Needed
[none]
Olds Touring Sedan(85-92?)
49 88/98 coupe
Olds Touring Sedan
Re: Who has a web site?
Re: Intake Manifold Update
Re: Who has a web site?
'70 Delta 88 convt. F/S
RE: Web page
Re: Who has a web site?
Value of 69 442 Conv?/what is 'fair' condition in the COI (sp?)/websites
Re: '69 Convert Quarters
Re: 1970 W-32?
Burned sheetmetal
Re: 49 88/98 coupe
64 olds
Eastwood catalog
Re: '69 Convert Quarters
Re: '73-'77 A-Body Headers
Re: '73-'77 A-Body Headers
Re: Who has a web site?
1966 Oldsmobile Cutlass convertible
Re: Aftermarket quarter panels (Was Re: Experiences, experiences)
Value of my car.
Delete
Re: Fiber optics for center console
Re:  repro quarters-steve kenny-bros auto speaks
Re: Burned sheetmetal
Re: Who has a web site?
intake gasket installation
Labay's heads
Fwd: 30 Fun Things To Do In A Car

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 05:16:45 -0800
From: mefco@sprynet.com
Subject: Re: New Radio for Cutlass

Chris,
The conversion is either for two speakers or four speakers. You have to tell 
him. His name and address is:
Radio Man (Bob Sponsel)
2731 McPherson St.
Dallas, Texas
75212

I have seen this guy at swap meets for years. He did AM-FM (mono) conversions 
just like 10,000 other people did. In June or July of this year a stereo 
conversion became available. So far his computor says he has done 176 stereo 
jobs since then. He is a very personable guy, and I think honest as the day is 
long.

Art Fuller
mefco@sprynet.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 05:16:50 -0800
From: mefco@sprynet.com
Subject: Re: New Radio for Cutlass

Bill,
The AM-FM mono conversion has been available for years. I have some factory mono 
ratios, that is not what I wanted. I wanted to use my radio, but have stereo. I 
know of nobody having that capability.
I had a guy do work on a factory stereo radio, and it sounds as good as when 
new. In 1970 that was great. However, this guy says that radio only put out 1 
watt. The one he just converted sounds fine to me, but I think this is 
subjective. It doesn't sound as good as my Bose surround sound system, but much 
better than the original stereo radio from 1970.
My 72 Cutlass Cruiser has an AM radio in it that doesn't work. I took another AM 
radio to him to convert. The face of the radio was not changed, and the preset 
buttons function just as before. Now I have a working radio, stock in 
appearance, and I didn't have to cut the dash.

Art Fuller
mefco@sprynet.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 10:04:16 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Lead, '70 Cutlass S (fwd)

From Doug Kitchener, not on the list, contact him directly at 
oldsdoud@hotmail.com if interested.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Doug Kitchener <oldsdoug@hotmail.com>
Subject: Lead, '70 Cutlass S

Happy New Year!  My brother called me this am from Phoenix AZ and said
(among other things!) that he knows someone out there who has an
Azure Blue '70 Cutlass S for sale, 350 and automatic, at $3500.

That's really all I know about it... if you deem it appropriate, wanna 
post this to the Olds list as a
lead from me?  Anyone interested can email me at oldsdoug@hotmail.com
(Note new email address!)  I'll give them my brother's phone number
(he's email-deprived!) and he can give them the owner's number... he
didn't have it handy when we talked, so unfortunately anyone interested
will have to make two calls... oh, I _think_ he said the guy is the
original owner of the car, but I may have that mixed up with a later
discussion of another car with someone else!  HNY to all on the list!
Regards, Doug Kitchener, oldsdoug@hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 10:05:20 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Lead, '70 Cutlass S (fwd)

That address should have been oldsdoug@hotmail.com, sorry...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 09:25:49 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: '69 Convert Quarters

> Don't have any idea who makes it but I've seen it in some body
> shops.

Eastwood Company

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 11:26:35 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Torkey 403

>> fine. Frankly, I would think getting *500* #ft out of a small block w/o N2O
>> would be difficult. That little crank is just too short to make that
kind of
>> tork.
>
>I was thinking that because the olds 403 has the biggest pistons of the
>olds motors, (I guess big pistons don't build torque huh.) that it would
>be a great motor to build. I guess not huh. I guess I would do better
>building a 455 olds. 

Those big pistons are part of the 403's weakness; the large bores leave
little room for the head gasket, which limits the amount of cylinder
pressure you can develop before blowing a head gasket. 

Big pistons and a short stroke are an excellent combination for a high-RPM
engine, but here the other inherent 403 weakness comes into play: Windowed
main webs. The bottom end of this block is not suitable for extended use at
high rpm with very high cylinder pressure; Charlie B. on this list has
chunks of a 403 bottom end to prove this fact... :)

>Have you or anyone out there in web land ever used Mondello Olds for
>building you olds motors? If you have were you happy? If not mondello,
>who did you use to build power to your olds motor.

Dave Smith and Dick Miller sell many of the same parts that Mondello does;
each has something exclusive to themselves, but you can build a good engine
using pieces from any of these places.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 11:21:31 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Mileage from a 455

>>>What range of MPG can one expect from driving a 455 power 1974 olds 98.
>>>I am not a hot rod driver, but I only get about 10 mpg.  Does anyone get
>>>better mileage?  what can be done to improve the MPG?

Anything that improves combustion efficiency will also improve mileage,
since you'll get the same amount of power out of a smaller amount of
gasoline. Dual exhausts, cold air induction, increased timing (you might
try an adjustable vacuum advance unit to _increase_ the rate and amount of
vacuum advance your car gets) and a High Energy Ignition will likely
improve your mileage.

The rest of your car is pretty much optimized for mileage already, though;
tighter converter, highway rear gears, small valves, mild cam, etc.

If you are confident of your gaskets, maybe try synthetic fluids (engine
oil, tranny fluid, differential fluid), and perhaps narrower,
harder-compound tires (the tradeoff here, of course, is a comfortable ride
and handling). You might also try lowering the front end by trimming a 1/4
coil at a time from the front springs until you achieve an acceptable ride
height; anything you can do to help air flow over and past the car. An
air-dam might look a little silly, though it would help. If you were really
gonzo about mileage, however, you could swap in a 4-speed overdrive
automatic transmission.

Before all of that, however, give your car a good tuneup, and make sure
everything is within factory specs; that might gain you another mile or two
out of a gallon.

Of course, you're not talking about the possibility of very dramatic
improvements; 16-18mpg is the most I've ever heard of anyone getting from a
455, and that's usually in a lighter Cutlass. You, of course, drive the
land barge of all land barges, and even with the above improvements, I
doubt you'd see better than 14-16mpg on the highway (OK, maybe up to 18
with the overdrive tranny, but that's $1200 for another 2mpg).

I think that optimizing the timing advance curve and a good tuneup, paired
with very conservative driving (maybe wire the secondary valves on the
carburetor closed to force you to drive conservatively? I'd love to hook
such a lockout to a cable in the passenger compartment...) might get you
half the way there. That's 3mpg for $25; the next 3mpg would cost you
between $500 and $2000, so you have to judge whether it's worth it.

>>Well, I drive a '78 Cutlass Supreme with a '77 (?) 350 c.i.d.  I get about
>>11 mpg, but I haven't tuned it for a while.  I am told proper plugs,
>>contact points, idle speed, clean air filter, ignition timing and proper
>>tires are important.  I'm sure there are others, though; and that 4-barrel
>>your engine has doesn't help ;-)

Well, it *does* if you can keep your foot out of the secondaries... ;)
(that's why I need a lockout on the secondaries; I have no self control... :)

11mpg is far below what you should be getting, though, even if you keep
opening the secondaries; Sounds like a tuneup is in order...

>heh, i got a 461 with a 2004r overdrive tranny and 3.08 gears in a '67 442.
>itll get around 17 mpg!  it aint no slouch, either!  :-)

That's VERY impressive mileage with an Olds big-block! What cam and carb
are you running on that car? Do you have any quarter-mile times?
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 11:05:43 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Engine Question?

>>> What engines were available for a '79 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme?  A
friend
>>> has one of these at work and maybe getting rid it of soon.
>>The engines that are available are
 [snip]
>>Oldmobile 260-403 
>>I beleive that the chevy 305 and a six was available too

The 403 was never available in the last generation of RWD Cutlasses; only
Cutlass with that was the '77 model year.

 [snip]
>AHA!!! A question that is within my realm of expertise!  The '79 Cutlass
>Supreme came factory with: 260 cid 2-barrel (105 HP, 205 #ft) VIN code F;
>305 cid 4-barrel (155 HP, 235 #ft), manufactured by Chevy, VIN code H; 350
>cid 4-barrel (160 HP, 260 #ft), VIN code L, made by Chevy; and a 350
>4-barrel (160 HP, 275 #ft), VIN code R, made by Olds.  It also came with a
>231 cid V6, 2-barrel that put out 110 HP, 190 #ft.  I don't know what VIN

THat R-code engine was a Hurst/Olds specific item, right? Now, I didn't
know that the Chevy 350 was also available; anyone ever seen such a car?
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 98 11:35 EST
From: turley@symplex.com (Mike Turley)
Subject: Re: 1966 442 Trans Growl

> I have a 1966 442:  in first, there is a deffinite growl. 2nd and 3rd seem
> to be on the
> money. The car cruises and accelerates normally at speed ... 1st is another
> story.
>
> When I accelerate, I can feel the trans lifting through the automatic stick
> on
> the console.
>
> Could both problems be related : loose cross member, bad mount, trans not
> properly aligned? The cross bar seems tight, tried jacking it with floor
> jack.
  
> Also : what year Transmissions will bolt up to 1966 442 (400 ci) 

> Thanks .... my first Olds Classic

Ken,

Well, first off, if your '66 442 came standard with a console auto.
it was probably a _2-speed_ Jetaway.

Can you identify this transmission by any markings on the case?

The '67s came with the TH400, which would be a good swap, and bolt right up.

Check out the FAQ at www.442.com for transmission info.

Mike Turley
turley@symplex.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 11:46:38 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Intake Manifold Update

- -----Original Message-----
From: Erik <erikreb@netbridge.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, January 02, 1998 4:07 AM
Subject: Re: Intake Manifold Update


>snip<
>I got another question for everybody:
>
>I have never torqued bolts before so I am a little unsure of what to
>do.  Do I start torqueing at the very top of the thread, or do I
screw
>it all the way in first, then torque to specs?  Thanks everybody,


Snug them down very lightly, then follow the torqueing sequence that
came with your Performer, or the one in your chassis manual. Start
with a low torque reading and then increase it twice to get to the
final torque. i.e. do it three times. Lightly oil the bolts (use clean
engine oil) before installing as it gives a more accurate final
torque.
After running the engine up to operating temperature, shut it off and
retorque the bolts. You might want to do this a couple of times over
the first week, after running the car.
Good luck.

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S convertible
OCA# 29770
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 00:56:11 -0500
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Panel Flanger(was Re: '69 Convert Quarters)

>COUPE KING wrote:
>Then I spot welded a ~1/2" strip of
>> sheet metal under the old panel, creating a ledge upon which the new
>>'patch' could be attached. The new  panel was then trimmed to fit and
>>welded in place.
>
>If I remember correctly, there is a tool available that you can use to
>"crimp" the metal to create an offset to save the welding a piece behind
>part.  Don't have any idea who makes it but I've seen it in some body
>shops.

I think it is called a panel flanger, Eastwood has a bunch of them in their
catalog and I think Vice-Grip makes them as well.  There is also an
attachment for an air hammer that does this, I have seen them in lots of
tool stores and catalogs.



Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 12:49:39 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re:       Olds URLS wanted for Web Page

>Hi all, I have somewhat finished my web page and was wanting some
Olds/automobile urls to throw on there among my others>

Hi Mike,

I would love for you to add my link on your web page.  If you want, I'll add
yours to mine.

See my web page (and 4-4-2), at:

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/


RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
1995 Achieva S

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 13:25:45 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Who has a web site?

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0205_01BD1781.EEC2B640
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Mike K's recent post gave me an idea;

Let's hear from Olds list members who have their own web page!  I think =
it would be great to inter-link the web sites of list members.  We would =
be able to get to know more about the people we "type" to, plus in most =
cases SEE their cars.   =20

BTW, just to be sure we don't disrupt the Olds list, (and Greg's =
sanity), all should respond or discuss this by private e-mail.

I'm game if you are...let me know!

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
1995 Achieva S

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

- ------=_NextPart_000_0205_01BD1781.EEC2B640
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Times New Roman">Mike K's recent post =
gave me an=20
idea;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Times New Roman"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Times New Roman">Let's hear from Olds =
list=20
members who have their own web page!&nbsp; I think it would be great to=20
inter-link the web sites of list members.&nbsp; </FONT><FONT =
color=3D#000000=20
face=3D"Times New Roman">We would be able to get to know more about the =
people we=20
&quot;type&quot; to, plus in most cases SEE their cars.&nbsp;&nbsp;<FONT =

color=3D#000000 face=3D"Times New Roman">&nbsp; </FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Times New Roman"><FONT =
color=3D#000000=20
face=3D"Times New Roman"></FONT></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000=20
face=3D"Times New Roman"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Times New Roman">BTW, just to be sure =
we don't=20
disrupt the Olds list, (and Greg's sanity), all should respond or =
discuss this=20
by private e-mail.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Times New Roman"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman">I'm game if you are...let me=20
know!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Times New Roman">RC =
Hellebuyck<BR>1971 4-4-2=20
covt. - see it at:<BR>1995 Achieva S</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Times New Roman"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Times New Roman"><A=20
href=3D"http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell">http://home.sprynet.com/s=
prynet/mrhell</A>/</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0205_01BD1781.EEC2B640--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 14:03:36 EST
From: Rid n 88 <Ridn88@aol.com>
Subject: olds parts

needed parts for 1968 olds delta 88 2dr. Lt front fender, hood, trunk lid,
rear quarters, or section around rear wheel wells. can anybody help?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 14:30:51 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Who has a web site?

- -----Original Message-----
From: RC Hellebuyck <mrhell@sprynet.com>
To: Olds e-mail List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, January 02, 1998 2:07 PM
Subject: Who has a web site?


Mike K's recent post gave me an idea;

Let's hear from Olds list members who have their own web page!  I
think it would be great to inter-link the web sites of list members.
We would be able to get to know more about the people we "type" to,
plus in most cases SEE their cars.

RC,
A lot of list members (24, so far, I think), belong to an Olds WebRing
that Jason Adcock started. You can see the list at:
http://www.webring.org/cgi-bin/webring?ring=oldsring&list
or there is an icon for joining at the bottom of my Web page. It would
be nice to get a lot more of the list members on the ring.

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S convertible
OCA# 29770
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 15:38:02 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '68 Delta Parts Needed

Not a list member, if anyone can help, please contact ridn88@aol.com 
directly.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Rid n 88 <Ridn88@aol.com>
Subject: olds parts

needed parts for 1968 olds delta 88 2dr. Lt front fender, hood, trunk lid,
rear quarters, or section around rear wheel wells. can anybody help?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 12:27:20 -0000
From: "ROBERT J STEINMANN" <centuryair@prodigy.net>
Subject: [none]

unsubscribe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 16:09:34 -0500
From: david janket <junkman@neca.com>
Subject: Olds Touring Sedan(85-92?)

Is it possible to find out the production numbers for the now defunct
Touring Sedan?  I have a 90 and my business partner has an 88.  In our
opinion the best kept secret of a great car from Olds/  Thanks  DR
Janket-Woodstock, Ct.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 16:28:11 -0500
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: 49 88/98 coupe

Now that I've finished my 69 442 rag top, I'm looking for another
project.  If you know of a 1949 88 or 98 coupe that needs restoring let
me know.  Frame must be good with few holes in the body...preferable a
#3 car.  E mail me privately.  Wayne Schwartz

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 16:32:37 -0500
From: david janket <junkman@neca.com>
Subject: Olds Touring Sedan

Looking for production figures for Touring Sedan  85-92?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 16:47:51 +0000
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Who has a web site?

RC Hellebuyck wrote:
> 
> Mike K's recent post gave me an idea;
>  
> Let's hear from Olds list members who have their own web page!  I

Here's mine.

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 14:16:39 -0800
From: Erik <erikreb@netbridge.net>
Subject: Re: Intake Manifold Update

M&D Gillespie wrote:
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Erik <erikreb@netbridge.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Thursday, January 01, 1998 6:58 PM
> Subject: Intake Manifold Update
> 
> >snip>
> >Is there a trick or something that keeps the gaskets from moving when
> I
> >put the manifold on?  Also, I am doing this job outside, and the temp
> is
> >probably around 45 degrees.
> 
> If you use something like Edelbrock "Gasgacinch" (sp??), on the
> gasket, (except for water ports), it will harden and hold the gasket
> in place. It's actually a type of contact cement.
> It was less than 40 degrees when I did mine and I had no trouble with
> either the cement or the silicone hardening. I used high temperature
> silicone around the water passages and then put about a 1/4" high bead
> instead of the rubber end seals. I also ran the bead up about 1/4"
> onto the head and gasket to ensure there was no space left that could
> leak.
> Using the silicone instead of the end seals let the manifold settle in
> place easily without having to compress the rubber.
> Everything worked great the first time around although I was paranoid
> for a couple of weeks that I had leaks that I couldn't see. Everytime
> The car left condensation or white smoke, I was convinced that there
> was a leak.
> It actually worked perfectly except for a coolant leak at the
> gooseneck gasket. If yours is chromed, file the chrome off the sealing
> surface. It will be more likely to seal. Also don't use silicone on
> this gasket. Use the Gasgacinch or some other sealer that doesn't have
> silicone in it. The anti-freeze will cause the silicone not to harden.
> If you let it harden before adding coolant, it will still be broken
> down by the silicone.
> Good luck.
> 
> Mick Gillespie
> 69 Cutlass S convertible
> OCA# 29770
> mgillespie@sprynet.com
> http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

Well, I finally got my intake manifold back on.  Thanks to everybody who
helped me, but as usual, I have a couple more questions:

How long should I let it sit before I start the engine?  People have
told me to wait a day before firing it up or you'll ruin the rtv.

Also, since it was beginning to rain and I had ruined the valley pan
gasket, I just used my other, two-piece gaskets.  I am a little worried
about wether or not I'll have leaks down inside.  Is there any way to
tell that I have internal leaks without actually getting inside it
again?

Thanks,

Erik B.
'72 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 18:03:41 -0500
From: "G. Douglas Burton" <postman@writeme.com>
Subject: Re: Who has a web site?

Gee, wouldn't it be kinda of hard to let everyone know where your Web site
is by emailing everyone individually?  In any case, mine is in my sig
below.  I don't currently have any pictures of my Olds up yet, but I'm
going to put them up right now.  If you do log on, please sign my
guestbook.  Thanks.

(¯`ˇ.¸¸.ˇ´¯`ˇ.¸¸.ˇ´¯`ˇ.¸¸.ˇ´¯`ˇ.¸¸.ˇ´¯)
{      Just a message from Doug       }
{  http://www.seidata.com/~gdburton   }
{   '84 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme    }
(¸¸.ˇ´¯`ˇ.¸¸.ˇ´¯`ˇ.¸¸.ˇ´¯`ˇ.¸¸.ˇ´¯`ˇ.¸)

At 01:25 PM 1/2/98 -0500, you wrote:
>    Mike K's recent post gave me an  idea;      ""       BTW, just to be
>sure we don't  disrupt the Olds list, (and Greg's sanity), all should
>respond or discuss this  by private e-mail.   I'm game if you are...let me 
>know!   RC Hellebuyck
>1971 4-4-2  covt. - see it at:
>1995 Achieva S   http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/ 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 18:41:42 -0500
From: "deirdre. reilly" <102724.635@compuserve.com>
Subject: '70 Delta 88 convt. F/S

Hey gang,

I went and looked at this Olds today.  It's in pretty rough shape but the
lady is looking to get rid of it quick and for cheap.  It needs a new top
and interior, front quarters are a little rusty, Olds 350 Rocket.  

I was gonna buy it if it had a 455, but it doesn't.  I think it could be
restored, but is probably better off as a parts car.  Most likely could be
bought for @ $500.

If anyone is interested call Michelle at (732)671-5365. Middletown, NJ

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'83 Cutlass Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 16:47:39
From: <terrywiles@usa.net>
Subject: RE: Web page

Sorry I don't have my own web page yet.   I never done it, and have not had the  time to give it a try yet.   You can however check out my car on this page for a short time if you like.   Should be there for the next week or so at least.http://www.442.com/wiles.html
____________________________________________________________________
Get free e-mail and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 15:58:54 -0800
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Who has a web site?

Didn't someone start an Olds Web Ring?  I thought I remembered hearing about
one a while ago.  If so, can someone post the details as to how to get on the
ring?  If not, we should get one started.  That would be an easy way to get all
the sites linked together.
- --
Tom Lentz, tlentz@ior.com                        '84 Hurst/Olds #2118
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz                       '78 Cutlass Supreme
Network Admin, CPM Corp, Spokane, WA.            '78 Chev 1/2ton (Olds 350)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 19:02:07 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Value of 69 442 Conv?/what is 'fair' condition in the COI (sp?)/websites

Hi all,  anyone know the following...

What is a description for FAIR in the Classic Car Index insurance guys use?

I was also wondering if anyone could help me get a vague idea of what my car
is worth, before paying $ for an appraisal.  I may encounter trouble...

can be seen at...

  http://www.berkshire.net/~sugarman/69olds02.jpg
  http://www.berkshire.net/~sugarman/69olds04.jpg

The car essentially looks like this, except the top is old and somewhat dirty,
I cleaned it recently (has wear marks).  Paint flake-offs or chips in various
places, like around conv well chrome that now has surface rust (not bad), same
around driver's door handle.  Couple touch ups.  Wheels are clean but need
repainting (paint chips). Original ss II's w/new center caps.  Needs new
interior on seats and doors (back is just faded and dry), but front seats are
ripped, doors are dirty and faded, and door arm rests are ripped.  Trunk is
rusty (bad), esp. above frame - middle is solid.  Front fenders are rusting in
bottom by door, but appear decent.  Driver's door has slight dent (easily
fixed) at front edge.  Left rear-quarter has some rust in usual places. Front
bumper needs a little hole filled, slight straighten, and rechrome, but looks
good (little rust).  Rear bumper was excellent (sigh).  Right wheel house has
bad rust problems.

Recently invested $3400 prior to travel/during travel - replacement of
mechanical parts...

As you can see, it's a 1969 Olds 442 Convertible, Hurst dual/gate, PW, PB, PS,
Air, Auto W/Cruise, Power Driver's Seat, Power Top, Power Antenna

Automatic Transmission and Engine Rebuilt (~$2900)

Recent Investments - Since 9/30/97

09/30/97 New Wires/Plugs $60
10-02-97 New Tires/Lifetime Alignment $373
10-16-97 Rear Brake Shoes/Drums $197
11-19-97 Replace Heater Coil $268
12-02-97 Replace U-Joints $60
12-15-97 Replace alignment type bushings $30 (old ones fell out!)

              $988 Total (3 Months)

Recent Investments - Since 7/97

New parts:
- - Door buttons and gaskets (2) $21
- - Set of wheel center caps (4) $125
- - Rear courtesy light lenses (2) $9

D&W Automotive 7/7/97 $110
- - Rebuild carb

D&W Automotive 7/21/97 $1630
- - Rear wheel bearing - right side
- - Front discs, pads, calipers, brake hoses, wheel bearings
- - Brake lines (2)
- - Anti-sway bar bushings
- - Drag link
- - Front left lower control arm and ball joint
- - Upper and lower control arm bushings - both sides 
- - Fuel pump
- - Pinion bearings (rear end)
- - Rear wheel cylinder (1)

D&W Automotive 8/14/97 $517

- - Rear cargo coils
- - Left rear axle
- - Rear wheel bearing - left side

Total $2412 (Summer)
      +$ 988  (Fall)
      ---------------
Total $3400 (Last 6 months)  Can Provide All Receipts

Previous Summer (Car is stored for winters):

     Transmission Rebuilt, Front Springs/Shocks, Rear Shocks 

Less than 20,000 miles on the following...

     Engine Rebuilt (~20,000 miles since rebuild), Right Ball Joint/Lower
Control Arm, 
     Tie-Rods/Ends, CenterLink, Brake Master Cylinder, Fuel Lines, Mufflers,
Exhaust   
     Pipes, etc.

Odometer reads 111,800 miles.  
Taking into account speedometer innaccuracy, car has ~100,000 miles, maybe a
little more...

Any takers on estimated value for car?

aaron

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 19:08:03 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: '69 Convert Quarters

In a message dated 98-01-02 09:33:34 EST, you write:

<< Eastwood Company >>

I couldn't find a website or listing on the net.

Do you know any info for them?

Have you used their quarters?

Thanks,
aaron

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 19:38:46 EST
From: KS7RACING <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 1970 W-32?

Dr. Barry,

I can vouch for the non-W32 SX. I have owned one since 1978, has over 260,000
miles on it - and looks like it, too. Has a 455 2-barrel with chambered dual
exhaust manifolds similar to a 442. It's known as The Royal Scam - high school
was a very interesting time with that car. Right now, it's resting in the back
yard under a cover.

Someday...........

Ken Snyder

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 18:44:05 -0600
From: Kurt Bonifay <kbonifay@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Burned sheetmetal

This is in response to Aaron's quest for rear qtr. panels.  I believe
I should advise you to be careful when purchasing body parts from
automobiles which have caught fire.  It takes very little heat to warp
sheetmetal.  If you do find the panels acceptable, try to have the
majority of the cutting done with a body saw or an air nibbler instead
of a cutting torch.  The cuts will be much cleaner and warpage will be
minimalized.  It shouldn't be much longer that my 68 442 conv will need
the same operation so I can certainly sympathize with these
frustrations.

Rhett
68 442 conv (currently under restoration)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 17:53:26 -0700
From: william goodnight <idaholc@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: 49 88/98 coupe

At 04:28 PM 1/2/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Now that I've finished my 69 442 rag top, I'm looking for another
>project.  If you know of a 1949 88 or 98 coupe that needs restoring let
>me know.  Frame must be good with few holes in the body...preferable a
>#3 car.  E mail me privately.  Wayne Schwartz
>
>amazing!  After about giving up on this group suddenly I have three
messages about '49-50 Olds.  I am building a '49 coupe, and would like to
hear more from old Olds fans.


Bill Goodnight
Goodnight & Associates, Inc.
idaholc@primenet.com
1014 E. Franklin
Boise, Idaho
(208)345-0158

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 16:54:19 -0000
From: "ROBERT J STEINMANN" <centuryair@prodigy.net>
Subject: 64 olds

There was a listing for 7 63-64 olds for 1500 dollars in the Tucson Az
paper today. I went and looked at them and found 1 64 starfire conv. 2 hard
tops and 4 63 64 4 doors. All cars are rough but some very good sheet
metal. the conv. had a dash fire,but not damaged to badly. The top rotted
through and the floors rusted . If any one is interested I will give you
the guys number

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 19:10:03 -0600
From: Kurt Bonifay <kbonifay@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Eastwood catalog

Aaron,	

Eastwood doesn't manufacture quarter panels, they are a tool outlet that
sells restoration tools and other products.  I can't find their adress
here at the house, however they are heavy advertizers in Hemmings Motor
News.  On a different subject, I have ordered fender patches from
Year-One.  I had to tweak them around a bit but they did eventually
fit.  The repair is not noticeable.  I have always received good service
from them and I am planing on ordering rt. and lt. qtr panels from them
as well for $359.00 a pair.

Good luck on your repairs,
Rhett

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 20:14:06 EST
From: COUPE KING <COUPEKING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: '69 Convert Quarters

The quarters I used came from Year One but Brothers and Fusick all sell the
same units. They have the' GM Authorized' sticker on them.

Eastwood Company is in Pennsylvania, I think. They always advertise in
Hemmings, and if you subscribe to almost any car mag you'll end up getting
their catalog sooner or later. I usually get 3-4 of them...

Try calling information for 800 phone #'s in Pa., or find a copy of any old
car magazine.

Peter

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jan 98 20:37:08 PST
From: "Tom Starkey" <tstarkey@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: '73-'77 A-Body Headers

Just FYI, I put Hooker Headers on my 68 Cutlass Supreme. Good fit.

Tom Starkey- '68 Cutlass Supreme

- ----------
> RPTW32 wrote:
> >
> >  Mike ,
> >  Try Hooker - They seem to make one of the better products for
> > street application. I don't have the part no's. but any speed shop
> > in the area should be able to get for you or Summit / Jegs etc.
> > I bought a set for my 69  last year and they fit w/o any problems.
> > Would also suggest going the extra mile ($$) and have them ceramic
> > coated. I have had this on 2 sets to date and the longevity and durability
> > is well worth the $$.  Plus the look great and keep some heat contained.
> >
> > Rgds,
> > Rob Thomas
> > 69 442
>
> I was told by the tech guy at Summit that no headers fit "S" body
> Cutlass' ('S', Supreme), only Cutlass'. He said they moved the engine
> back for a better ride. My Heddmans didn't fit, we had to modify them.
>
>
> --
> **********************************
> Matt Cremean
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
> CreamerSoftŠ Software
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
> 1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
> **********************************
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jan 98 20:37:08 PST
From: "Tom Starkey" <tstarkey@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: '73-'77 A-Body Headers

Just FYI, I put Hooker Headers on my 68 Cutlass Supreme. Good fit.

Tom Starkey- '68 Cutlass Supreme

- ----------
> RPTW32 wrote:
> >
> >  Mike ,
> >  Try Hooker - They seem to make one of the better products for
> > street application. I don't have the part no's. but any speed shop
> > in the area should be able to get for you or Summit / Jegs etc.
> > I bought a set for my 69  last year and they fit w/o any problems.
> > Would also suggest going the extra mile ($$) and have them ceramic
> > coated. I have had this on 2 sets to date and the longevity and durability
> > is well worth the $$.  Plus the look great and keep some heat contained.
> >
> > Rgds,
> > Rob Thomas
> > 69 442
>
> I was told by the tech guy at Summit that no headers fit "S" body
> Cutlass' ('S', Supreme), only Cutlass'. He said they moved the engine
> back for a better ride. My Heddmans didn't fit, we had to modify them.
>
>
> --
> **********************************
> Matt Cremean
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
> CreamerSoftŠ Software
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
> 1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
> **********************************
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 20:56:46 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: Who has a web site?

> RC Hellebuyck wrote:

> We would be able to get to know more about the people we "type" to,
> plus in most cases SEE their cars.

Mine is lacking Olds pics for now, it'll be monday or tueday at the
earliest.
 
> http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

Either way, I just finished updating my page to reflect the Olds, and
modified other pages as well...  Take a peek at the new "Nothin' But
IThEFunKI"

- -- 
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 20:08:49 -0600
From: "Daniel S and Michelle Carlson" <carlson@paulbunyan.net>
Subject: 1966 Oldsmobile Cutlass convertible

Help!,

	I have a 1966 Olds Cutlass to restore, but I am not sure what exactly I
have.  I have not been able to find much, if any, info on a 1966 Olds
Cutlass convertible.  I do not believe it is a 442.  The VIN is
338676M162014.  I have had an offer from someone to buy the car before I
even finished restoring it.  Please help with the value of my vehicle.

Thanks!,

Dandan

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 21:19:30 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Aftermarket quarter panels (Was Re: Experiences, experiences)

In a message dated 98-01-01 15:47:12 EST, you write:

Chris,

Did you call Brothers to complain? If so, what did they say?

Aaron

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 21:54:47 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Value of my car.

I am not gonna be rude...  Just stating an idea...  Why would one care
to know the "value" of their car.  To me, the value of the car is what
you want it to be...  Value reflects the steel, and plastic, glass,
rubber, and whatever else is in their...  It doesn't reflect time, or
memories.  

A new set of tires won't help value, or hurt value...  It just looks
better, and sells a little quicker.  Little things like that make a
little difference, but not enough to make money off of.  If you REALLY
got into it... And say you got an 86 Cutlass Salon, Loaded, market being
say $2500...  You got the car and all the power works, but the car runs
and looks like crap, so you paid $500.  That's $500 to the market
value..  Now, you need tires:

$300 for good tires

but while you're there, you saw a good looking set of SSIII rims,
There's another $500.  

You're at $1300 invested in the car...  For the SAME car, you might get
$1000, but possibly less.  

You don't like that the tranny slips, $500
The motor sucks oil like it's going outta style, rebuilt 307 with stock
stuff, $500

Now you are at $2300, still the car will call a $1500 tag since it is
ugly as snot.

Paint, cheaply, $500.  But thats not indlucing body work, or chrome,
done right, $2500 (guess)

Now you have sunk $4800 into the car, not including the little things
that you might do, like replace the tail lights, or replace trim panels,
or tune the car up...  Market might get you between $3500 and $4000, if
the cars interior looks good, but other wise, 3 to 3.5...  

Why worry about what it's worth...  If it's a blast to drive...  Drive
it!!  <G>  If it ain't, you'll know the price REAL quick.
- -- 
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 22:14:26 EST
From: Boaz32 <Boaz32@aol.com>
Subject: Delete

Please delete me from your mailing list!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 23:04:32 -0500
From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Fiber optics for center console

At 01:34 AM 1/2/98 -0500, you wrote:
>>Where can i find this particular item?? Its the fiber optic lead thats
>>attached to the shifter slide. While dealing with my recent tranny problems
>>via the center console i noticed it is completely gone.
>
><mindreading mode on>
>Ummmmm...Hmmmm.....
>
>OK, I give up; *what* kind of car is this for? There have been a number of
>lighting schemes for Oldses over the years.
>_______________________________________________________
>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
>
Sorrrryyyy.....
It's a 1977 Olds Cutlass Supreme.
Thanks 

AAron

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 23:21:59 EST
From: Oldsparts <Oldsparts@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  repro quarters-steve kenny-bros auto speaks

Chris-Hope you have been digging your fox hole a little deeper....just kidding
;-).
Seriously though-let me tell you what we do to help avoid conflicts like
yours:

1-We sell only the quarters licensed by General Motors Restoration Parts
Program.  This is your best assurance of a quality panel.  We always sell the
best items available.  Remember we use this stuff here regularly.  I can't
sell anything better than the best.

2-WE OFFER THE ONLY MONEY BACK GUARANTEE ON THESE PANELS.  IF YOU DON'T LIKE
THEM YOU CAN SEND THEM BACK.

Aftermarket quarter panel replacement is not the kind of work you want done by
the lowest bidder.  A competent and accomplished body man will take careful
measurements before they cut.

Cost.  Are you guys kidding me?  Expensive?  Quarters, when they were
available for GM, (back when we were still fighting the indians) cost WELL
OVER $300!  Hate to say it but with your total lack of historical and market
perspectives, those of you complaining about price SOUND LIKE WHINERS!  Guess
you don't remember when NO quarters were available.  See Peters comments.

I should be ashamed?  WHY?  For selling the best available product money can
buy?  WHY?  For offering a money back guarantee if you were not satisfied?
WHY?  I think you owe me an apology man!

Steve Kenny
Brothers Automotive Products
www.oldsparts.com
Oldsparts@aol.com
800-442-PART

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 23:54:44 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Burned sheetmetal

In a message dated 98-01-02 19:52:15 EST, you write:

<< I should advise you to be careful when purchasing body parts from
 automobiles which have caught fire. >>

Thanks Kurt,

Unfortunately, the quarters were in sad shape on the burned conv.

Aaron

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 00:05:55 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: Who has a web site?

> > Mike K's recent post gave me an idea;
> > Let's hear from Olds list members who have their own web page!

        Yup.  I got one.  I'm trying for as much detail and
(thumbnailed) pics as possible, although space is tight.  Drop by and
check it out!  Feel free to criticize/comment on/commend to your heart's
content!!  (please do)
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 00:09:21 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: intake gasket installation

Well, I was able to get my intake manifold off.  Just had to give it a
couple whacks.  But now I am having trouble puting it back on.  I bought
the valley pan gasket and tried to put it back on and it ended with a
broken gasket and me cleaning up all the silicone.

Is there a trick or something that keeps the gaskets from moving when I
put the manifold on?  Also, I am doing this job outside, and the temp is
probably around 45 degrees.  Will this stop the RTV from getting hard?
Also, I know you don't have to, but should I remove the distributor so I
can set the manifold down more level?
================
The Lizzie Borden method of intake removal?
I have found that these gaskets need to be dry-fit first, bent & tweaked a bit
here & there until they stay in place themselves, held by the little round
burrs punched in that mate with the "extra" holes in the heads. THEN apply the
sealer for the intake ports, then the silicone, then every so carefully lower
the unit, back end first under the dist'r, about 1/2" above the final position,
then line up the slotted bolt hole pretty close [LH side fwd short bolt], then
lower the last little bit and set properly.
  45 should be fine for silicone.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 00:14:12 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Labay's heads

Supposed to be 455 heads. Guy gave me head casting ID numbers of 396021F and
231 788L. Any clues as to what year and application these came from would be
appreciated.
Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) Akron, OH
===================
Well, Jason, those are BLOCK ID #'s you cited.
396021-F is the common 455, Torkus Domesticus Oldsus, and the other, which
appears as 231 [tiny "L"] 788 on the block, is the RARE but no more valuable
455 replacement block, Torkus Domesticus Oldsus Refreshus.

If either has heads on it, get the letter or number from the lower left corner
as you face the motor from the side. From that we can decide how happy you can
be.

I haven't an L block, might consider trading a core motor for one or something
like that, if you do get it.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 01:01:17 EST
From: Mikey tvb <Mikeytvb@aol.com>
Subject: Fwd: 30 Fun Things To Do In A Car

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- --part0_883807278_boundary
Content-ID: <0_883807278@inet_out.mail.aol.com.1>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

In a message dated 98-01-02 16:29:22 EST, Skatephein writes:

> 1. Vary your vehicle's speed inversely with the speed limit.
>  
>  2. Roll down your windows and blast talk radio. Attempt to
>  headbang.
>  
>  3. At stop lights, eye the person in the next car suspiciously.
>  With a look of fear, lock your doors.
>  
>  4. Two words: Chicken suit.
>  
>  5. Write the words "Help me" on your back window in red paint.
>  The more it looks like blood, the better.
>  
>  6. Have conversations, looking periodically at the passenger
>  seat, when driving alone.
>  
>  7. Laugh a lot. A whole lot.
>  
>  8. Stop at the green lights.
>  
>  9. Go at the red ones.
>  
>  10. Occasionally wave a stuffed animal/troll doll/Barbie out
>  your window or sunroof. Feel free to make it dance.
>  
>  11. Eat food that requires silverware.
>  
>  12. Pass cars, then drive very slowly.
>  
>  13. Sing without having the radio on.
>  
>  14. Honk frequently without motivation.
>  
>  15. Wave at people often. If they wave back, offer an angry 
>  look and an obscene gesture.
>  
>  16. Ask people for Grey Poupon.
>  
>  17. Let pedestrians know who's boss.
>  
>  18. Look behind you frequently, with a very paranoid look.
>  
>  19. Restart your car at every stop light.
>  
>  20. Hang numerous car-fresheners in the rear-view mirror. Talk
>  to them, stroking them lovingly.
>  
>  21. Lob burning things in the windows of smokers who throw 
>  their butts out the window.
>  
>  22. While stopped at a light, piss out the window/sunroof onto
>  other cars.
>  
>  23. Paint your car with occult symbols.
>  
>  24. Keep at least five cats in the car.
>  
>  25. Have some passengers in the back who are having wild, noisy
>  sex.
>  
>  26. Root (cheer, not snuffle in the mud) for firetrucks.
>  
>  27. Stop and collect roadkill.
>  
>  28. Stop and pray to roadkill.
>  
>  29. Throw Spam.
>  
>  30. Get in the fast lane and gradually ... slow ... down ... to a stop.
>  Then get out and watch the cars. Throw Spam at them.
>  

this is something that my little brother sent to me,  i just thouht you
guys(and gals) would enjoy!


------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1038
*********************************

