To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1061


oldsmobile-digest     Saturday, January 17 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1061



Re: NON-Expiring registration for Michigan
Re: 1965 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Re: What Can Go Wrong-lights
Re: FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro
UNBOUNCE: How do I adjust my carb?
Windshield Trim 1970 Cutlass Convertible
Re: What Can Go Wrong-Driveshafts
Hot Engine (Questions)
Tranny Question -Steve Ochs are you out there?
Re: Title Search: Illinois
Engine rebuild ?'s
Re: NON-Expiring registration for Michigan
Re:  chit - chat about olds
Re: Hot Engine (Questions)
RE: What Can Go Wrong
Re: Windshield Trim 1970 Cutlass Convertible
Re: Non-Olds
Re: New Motor Problems
Re: UNBOUNCE: How do I adjust my carb?
edelbrock heads
Re: Hot Engine (Questions)
Re: 69 4-4-2 parts for sale
test
re year of manufacture
Re: Windshield Trim 1970 Cutlass Convertible
re:what can go wrong
Re: Non-Olds
re:what can go wrong
1981 CUTLASS SUPREME DIESEL 2DR  SDN
Re: centinel
Re: What Can Go Wrong
Re: Title Search: Illinois
Re: NON-Expiring registration for Michigan
Re: What Can Go Wrong
Re: what can go wrong
Re: Blinking head lights
"Strobe Lights"
Re: What Can Go Wrong
Re: Non-Olds
Can't start with lights on
Re: What Can Go Right
Re: Hot Engine (Questions)
Re: edelbrock heads
Re: What Can Go Right
Re: Olds bumpers
Re: What Can Go Wrong - bosses' car
4-4-2 For Sale
Re: Green's Law (Was Re: What Can Go Wrong)
"Strobe Lights"
Re: Intake & Carb
Re: Oldsmobile program on TV
Re: HELP!!!!! how do I adjust my carb?
Re: Chrome tips
Re: Non-Olds
Re: Rochester 2-Jet I.D.
Re: Engine rebuild ?'s
Re: Intake & Carb

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 16:47:10 EST
From: OldsGuyGA <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: Re: NON-Expiring registration for Michigan

enough of the michigan plates ok.....

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 16:53:41 -0500
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@mail.cvn.net>
Subject: Re: 1965 Oldsmobile Cutlass

Kurt and Rose :

just saw your add for the shifter assembly.
If you have not sold it ... I need one.

Ken Swick

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 16:57:43 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong-lights

- -----Original Message-----
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, January 16, 1998 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong-lights


>speaking of lights,
>
>is there anyone who knows why my 69 442 won't start with the lights
on?
>it acts like a kill switch.
>
>aaron

You probably have a short somewhere in the switches or circuit. Mine
wouldn't start with the door open until I found and fixed a shorted
switch in the door for the interior lights. It took several times of
thinking I had a dead battery before I connected it to having the door
open. You've won half the battle already. Well maybe 10%.
BTW, check your battery ground cable too. I doubled my cranking power
by putting a new one on. The battery and cable looked new too. No sign
of the usual corrosion.

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S convertible
OCAª 29770
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 16:58:15 -0500
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@mail.cvn.net>
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro

James and Joanne

1966 post-coupe 442

It wasn't on your list of parts ... BUT
I am desperate to find the piece that
attaches the steering coumn to the dash.
It is probably called a steering column
mount bracket, support, something like that.

As I was working on wiring, I happened to look up
and there it was, a rusted piece of metal strap
holding the steering column in place.
Pa leeeez ... have a real mounting bracket.

Ken Swick

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 18:07:56 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: How do I adjust my carb?

Can't use that "H*LP" word...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:PSHENG@scuacc.scu.edu
Subject: H*LP!!!!! how do I adjust my carb?

I have a 72 cutlass supreme, 350, 4bbl quadrajet, auto trans, and I just
installed a pertronix ignition in place of the points and installed a crane
adjustable vaccum advance on the distrib.  I have the timing at about 11
degrees, and the vaccum advance is on the most sensitive setting.  It
runs OK, except I can't get my god damn m%^ª&^%$* f*&^*&%))(*& carburetor
adjusted so it idles right.

My friend said to adjust it so the idle is at about 1000 RPM, and then turn
the idle mixture screws clockwise (lean) until it starts to die, then back off
1/2 turn (do one idle mixture screw at a time), and then adjust the idle speed
screw to where it's supposed to be (in my case, 1100 RPM in park, 600 RPM in
gear)

I tried this, and I can turn the idle mixture screws all the way clockwise
without the engine starting to stumble (this was with the idle speed screw
set to 1000 rpm)  I tried it again with it idling at 800 RPM, but still the
same thing.  Finally I just backed the mixture screws about 2 turns out, and
adjusted the idle speed screw so it idles at about 1100 in park, 800 in gear.
I messed with it for 2 hours, and that's the best I could do, and it still
idles like sª$%@.  (idles rough, fluctuates about 50 RPM, dies when I put it
in gear if it's not fully warmed up)  No matter what I tried, I couldn't make
it idle 1100 RPM in park and 600 in gear.

HOW CAN I ADJUST MY CARB? Please reply immediately if you have any advice,
because this is driving me nuts!!!  BTW, I did all this with the vaccum
advance hooked up... are you supposed to disconnect it before you adjust teh
idle??

- -Paul

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 16:56:00 +0000
From: tcjmiami@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Windshield Trim 1970 Cutlass Convertible

Does anyone have the trim strip for the top of the WIndshield for a
1970 Cutlass S Cinvertible and if so how much?



Tom Johnson
1970 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 16:15:49 -0600
From: "Tracy H. Shires" <twodogs@ou.edu>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong-Driveshafts

>I read an article about it in hot rod awhile back. (Don't remember exaclty

>what issue it was, I think it was within the last 2 years.)  The article

>said it's becoming a bigger problem now that overdrives are abundant.


I remember the article.. They suggested getting an aluminum driveshaft.. I
checked into that and was dismayed that it would have to be custom built for a
Cutlass $$$!



>One reason for the driveshaft coming apart (just a guess here) after you

>upshifted might be that you changed the driveshaft alignment ever so

>slightly when you let up.  Perhaps if a U-joint, rearend bushing or tranny

>mount was slightly weak it would allow the driveshaft angle to shift when

>you let up.


The pinion angle is what is concerning me the most. I have 255 60's on the rear
and the front is lowered 2 inches... I have a set of SSM lower arms that will
set it right- If I ever get around to it..BTW - Anyone ever heard of a magnetic
protractor and where I could get one?





>You could maybe try a driveshaft out of a `87 442 or GN, they had some

>pretty low gears, maybe they had a stronger driveshaft or a more precise

>balance.  You might also look into getting a stronger driveshaft out of


I am kinda curious if these cars had better driveshafts? Balanced differently?
.. Anyone know?



> BTW, Was your driveshaft

>solid or one of thoes deals where there's an outer shaft that is bonded with

>rubber to an inner shaft?  The 2-piece driveshafts are smoother but

>signifigantly weaker.


It is the one piece... The torsional shear was rather destructive.. I brought
the remaining 1/2 driveshaft to my Solid Mechanics class- quite an intersting
debate that spurred up...



>The good news is that it's very hard to break a driveshaft on a street car

>otherwise.  Especially with an automatic and a light car.  Most of the time

>a U-joint breaks before a driveshaft ever will.

>

>Greg Pruett

>72 Vista Cruiser

>67 Cutlass Supreme

>80 Cutlass Calais



Thanks for you input!







T. H. Shires81 C/S/B Rckt 350

mailto:TwoDogs@ou.edu


<bold>University of Oklahoma

</bold><italic><color><param>0000,0000,ffff</param>Aerospace
Engineering

</color><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param>Mechanical Engineering

</color></italic>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 17:20:02 -0500
From: "John Richmond" <richmond@tir.com>
Subject: Hot Engine (Questions)

Since it had been over a month since I last started my
72 442/455 I decided to start it up and let it run for a while.
Since it is up on blocks with the tires hanging free I thought
I would put the car in drive and let the drivetrain spin.
After about 15 - 20 minutes I noticed steam coming out of
the overflow hose at the radiator cap. Then I got in the car
and noticed the temp gauge was just under H. So needless
to say I quickly put the trans in park and turned the engine off.

My question is did the car over heat because I had it in drive
without having air flowing through the radiator like normal driving
conditions? I am surprised it got so hot being that it was 32 degrees
out. Or could the thermostat be bad?

John Richmond
richmond@tir.com   or   jwr10@chrysler.com
Warren, MI
72 442/455

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 16:20:27 -0600
From: "Tracy H. Shires" <twodogs@ou.edu>
Subject: Tranny Question -Steve Ochs are you out there?

Is there anyway to run in 4th gear in a 200r4 at anything over 1/2 throttle.. I
kinda miss the th350 days topping out the car in third... I'm sick of the
rustangs passing by me b/c I have to let of the gas!



Thanks!







T. H. Shires81 C/S/B Rckt 350

mailto:TwoDogs@ou.edu


<bold>University of Oklahoma

</bold><italic><color><param>0000,0000,ffff</param>Aerospace
Engineering

</color><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param>Mechanical Engineering

</color></italic>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 16:56:32 -0500
From: "Laurence S. Simpson, D.D.S." <laurencesimpson@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Title Search: Illinois

The State of Illinois will do a title search for a car and go back 10 years.
On my 69 H/O they actually went back to 1978.  The DMV search section can be
contacted at:
        Record Inquiry Section
        Room 408, Howlett Building
        Springfield, ILL 62756
        (217) 782-6992
Good luck!

Laurence Simpson, DDS
HOCA 514, 1988 H/O Advisor
1969 H/O
1979 H/O
1988 H/O
laurencesimpson@msn.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, January 16, 1998 4:00 PM
Subject: Title Search: Illinois


>I am in the process of searching the title on my 442. I recently received
>the title information from Oklahoma, where I purchased the car. Thanks to
>Steven (w30442cs@aol.com) for the contact information in Oklahoma. The
>car's title leads to Illinois. As a result, I have two questions about
>title searching in Illinois. First, does Illinois provide a title search
>service? Second, if they do, will someone please point me in the direction
>of that info?
>
>TIA
>Ray
>Alex. VA
>70 442 Conv.
>70 Cutlass Conv.
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 17:36:06 -0500 (EST)
From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Engine rebuild ?'s

Hi It has been a while since I've written anything on here, but read every day
Here is my question:  When I rebuild this motor 350 (1970) What are the things
that I should definitely have the machine shop do?  I know the heads.

Is it possible, or "right" to reuse the pistons.

Also has anyone used edelbrocks "power package" ? Manifold,Carb,Cam.  If so do
you like it?

I figure that It will cost around $1,300 for parts.  I will tear down and put
back together.  Sound about right?

Thanks
Doug H
1970 CS Conv't
Holt, MI

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 17:35:18 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: NON-Expiring registration for Michigan

>enough of the Michigan plates ok.....

If it bugs you that much, don't read the threads.  Cranky, cranky   >:-|
Wow look!  a "delete" key.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
1995 Achieva S

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 18:03:09 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re:  chit - chat about olds

Thanks for the kind words Jean!  Sounds like your WHOLE family is into cars.
That's great.  Make sure you show Doc the car when you get it painted.

BTW, the color of your '71 Cutlass S was called "Bittersweet".

Visit the Oakbud anytime.   :)


RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
1995 Achieva S

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 18:27:04 -0500
From: Gerald Hughes <ghughes@hughesconsulting.com>
Subject: Re: Hot Engine (Questions)

John,
The thermostat is the first guess.  What you should do is remove it
completely, hook the hose back up with NO THERMOSTAT...and then run it
again.  If everything is A ok then you had a bad thermostat and you just
need to get a new one.  If the engine still overheats then you have
other worries.  Also, please make sure there is adequate fluid in the
radiator.

Gerald Hughes



John Richmond wrote:
>
> Since it had been over a month since I last started my
> 72 442/455 I decided to start it up and let it run for a while.
> Since it is up on blocks with the tires hanging free I thought
> I would put the car in drive and let the drivetrain spin.
> After about 15 - 20 minutes I noticed steam coming out of
> the overflow hose at the radiator cap. Then I got in the car
> and noticed the temp gauge was just under H. So needless
> to say I quickly put the trans in park and turned the engine off.
>
> My question is did the car over heat because I had it in drive
> without having air flowing through the radiator like normal driving
> conditions? I am surprised it got so hot being that it was 32 degrees
> out. Or could the thermostat be bad?
>
> John Richmond
> richmond@tir.com   or   jwr10@chrysler.com
> Warren, MI
> 72 442/455

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 04:45:43 -0500
From: "Kerr, Brian (R)" <kerrb@basf-corp.com>
Subject: RE: What Can Go Wrong

In the category of: "Annoying and inconvenient, but can lead to interesting
stories:"..... How about

"Owner Stupidity"

The day I took delivery of 69 Cutlass Conv, the previous owner delivered it
to me on  a car trailer. After I paid him and he left with tears in his eyes
(really!), I suggested to my girlfriend that we take it for a spin around
the block before I start taking it apart. Exactly half way around the block,
it ran out of gas. It appears he only put enough in it to drive it on and
off the trailer. We are sitting in an unregistered,  uninsured,  unsafe
(brakes on only one wheel worked) car that had barely the skeleton of an
exhaust system on it. I ran home for my lawn mower gas, leaving her in the
car on the street. In Ontario where I live,  these offences have  fines that
would total in excess of $5,000. All within sight of the house! It was
indeed fortutitous that I managed to get it started and home again with out
attracting the attention of the authourities.


Brian Kerr
69 Cutlass Conv

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 18:44:02 EST
From: Convcutl69 <Convcutl69@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Windshield Trim 1970 Cutlass Convertible

Have it for 69 S. Anybody?,is it the same
            Mike W

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 18:44:01 EST
From: Convcutl69 <Convcutl69@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds

I just picked up a 166 mhz hewlett packard.
came with keyboard and mouse, plugged in my monitor and old printer $700.
beats my 486 25mhz to pieces.
Also got your E-mail on coming up this way. Talk to you later.
Mike W.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 06:49:54 -0500
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: New Motor Problems

Fixed!

Wasn't the intake sealing.
Wasn't the ignition module.
Wasn't the cam timing.

It was a bad timing light...

Here's the deal - I swapped in a old points/condensor unit in to eliminate any
possibilites of problem from the HEI.   Got it running, still won't idle.
I had left my timing light under the hood last night, and I didn't feel like
holding a sub-freezing piece of metal.  Grabbed my other timing light from
the garage (plastic body) - aimed it and couldn't see the timing mark.

Turned the dist. until I saw the mark - it had probably been at about 20
degrees AFTER top dead.   Gee, no wonder it wouldn't run for crap!

With the timing set to 12 BTDC (with a *GOOD* light) it idles pretty well -
will probably idle even better once I swap the HEI back in.   Firing the
two lights at the same time against a wall, it's obvious the metal one was
firing a hell of a lot more than the old one....

Gotta love when the test equipment is bad!


- --> Bob Valentine
- --> ravalent@liii.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 07:02:23 -0500
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: How do I adjust my carb?

At 06:07 PM 1/16/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I have a 72 cutlass supreme, 350, 4bbl quadrajet, auto trans, and I just
>installed a pertronix ignition in place of the points and installed a crane
>adjustable vaccum advance on the distrib.  I have the timing at about 11
>degrees, and the vaccum advance is on the most sensitive setting.  It
>runs OK, except I can't get my god damn m%^ª&^%$* f*&^*&%))(*& carburetor
>adjusted so it idles right.

  First things first; did it idle OK before you installed the Pertronix and
the advance can?    If so your idle problem is related to this install -
(see my last post about my bad timing light. ;^)) NOT the carb.    Is the
cam stock?

>My friend said to adjust it so the idle is at about 1000 RPM, and then turn
>the idle mixture screws clockwise (lean) until it starts to die, then back
off
>1/2 turn (do one idle mixture screw at a time), and then adjust the idle
speed
>screw to where it's supposed to be (in my case, 1100 RPM in park, 600 RPM in

   The way I've always done it is to set the mixture roughly in park, then
put it in gear (disclaimer: have someone hold brake pedal).  Now set the
idle speed and adjust the mixture for max vacuum; or max idle speed without
reseting the idle speed screw.

>same thing.  Finally I just backed the mixture screws about 2 turns out, and
>adjusted the idle speed screw so it idles at about 1100 in park, 800 in gear.

   That's a pretty big RPM drop; sounds like you've got a vacuum leak or
the timing is messed up.

>because this is driving me nuts!!!  BTW, I did all this with the vaccum
>advance hooked up... are you supposed to disconnect it before you adjust teh
>idle??

    The vacuum advance should not be coming into play at idle; you do have
it hooked up to ported vacuum, right?


- --> Bob Valentine
- --> ravalent@liii.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 20:24:14 -0500
From: George S Case <gpcase@compuserve.com>
Subject: edelbrock heads

Thank you for your response regarding using tall valve covers with the
edelbrock heads but i think you missed my question. I am not concerned
about the cost of buying taller valve covers. I have a 1970 442 with power
steering and power brakes so i do not think that i have enough room to fit
taller valve covers in the engine compartment. What options do i have ie
going to manual disc brakes instead of power brakes. Thanks again.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 20:40:15 -0500
From: loris <loris@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Hot Engine (Questions)

Gerald Hughes wrote:
>
> John,
>         The thermostat is the first guess.  What you should do is remove it
completely, hook the hose back up with NO THERMOSTAT...and then run it again.
If everything is A ok then you had a bad thermostat and you just need to get a
new one. >

Actually, (no offense to Gerald's suggestion, of course) before hooking
up the hose again, why not try taking the thermostat out, put it in a
pan of cold water, heat it over the kitchen stove, and watch the
thing-a-ma-jig open as the water *begins* to boil.  If it doesn't "open"
then you know for sure the stat is bad.  I've done this and it's less
work than taking the stat out, hook up the hose w/out the stat in place,
refill the radiator, see if it over heats, remove the hose, replace the
stat, an on and on and on...

- -Loris

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 98 19:16:33 PST
From: "chris smetana" <chris@abcs.com>
Subject: Re: 69 4-4-2 parts for sale

Mike,
It is on a hardtop.  I'm guessing these were originally on the car, but you
never know, as it looks like the previous owner didn't like the factory wiring
and decided to rewire the car, especially since he put an alarm in it. Your
welcome.  And I can't even count all the things I've learned from this list.
Great source of info.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
chris@abcs.com

1969 Cutlass S W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others
- ----------
> > Mike,
> > Actually, these are the chrome headliner channels.  I tried to describe 
them
> as best as I could since I didn't know what they are called.
>
> Thanks Chris.  Sorry if I misunderstood your post.  And this is on a
> Hardtop??  Or Sport Coupe (enclosed door windows)?  Just wondering.
> That's the cool thing about this list.  You learn something everyday.
> It's just that I've never seen them on a '69.
>
> Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 22:29:15 -0400
From: Chris Kugler <talcarol@erie.net>
Subject: test

testing

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 18:57:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Jack Karamanos <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: re year of manufacture

wa state will let you have year of manufacture or restored (vehicle
plate), plate or plates on your car regardles of drivetrain for only $38
and the current year's fee.  the only thing you cant do is make it your
daily driver for work.   my 47 has a 47 plate from the wa stae county that
i got it from that was put on in 91.  the 91 tags on the last new style
plates cost $63 in 91.  the $400 in saved fees went for rear tire
purchases

i'm a firm beliver in not over paying the state if they have a program
that helps me out

47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 22:21:02 EST
From: ANTIQ OLDS <ANTIQOLDS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Windshield Trim 1970 Cutlass Convertible

In a message dated 98-01-16 18:57:40 EST, you write:

<<
 Have it for 69 S. Anybody?,is it the same
             Mike W
  >>
 Hi
  Not the same, must be from a 68-72 convert


Everett  OCAª 1961   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 18:32:44 -0500
From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Subject: re:what can go wrong

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

P.S.-The nissan was owned by my manager's girlfriend's mother.
Hahahhahaha.

Erik
73 Olds 88 455

- ------=_NextPart_000_0127_01BD2376.4D5D11A0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2027.0"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3Dªffffff>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=3D2>P.S.-The nissan was owned by my <U>manager's =

girlfriend's mother.</U></FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=3D2>Hahahhahaha.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=3D2></FONT></STRONG>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=3D2>Erik</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=3D2>73 Olds 88 =
455</FONT></STRONG></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0127_01BD2376.4D5D11A0--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 17:59:04 -0500
From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds

- -----Original Message-----
From: Erik <erikreb@netbridge.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, January 16, 1998 12:44 AM
Subject: Re: Non-Olds


>chris smetana wrote:
>>
>> Well, my pc craped out AGAIN.  And for the last time.  I'm actually
borrowing a keyboard for a week or so until I get a new pc.  Enough of this
486/50 w/ 8MB ram and win 3.1 crap, it's time to upgrade.  It died right
when I was about to reply to the headliner chrome retainer post about my
parts for sale (which I sent after this).
>> Done bitching.
>>
>> My question is do most of the pc's now a days come w/ ps2 ports for the
keyboard and mouse?  Or does it depend on what you buy and from whom?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Chris Smetana
>> Terre Haute, IN
>> chris@abcs.com
>>
>> 1969 Cutlass S W-31
>> 1969 4-4-2 parts car
>> plus others
>
>Chris,
>
>Yeah, I am almost certain that all comps now come with ps/2 ports.  You
>can also stick the mouse in the serial port, if u buy a serial mouse of
>course.
>
>486, ouch!  Need to be surfing in style with a pentuim 200 mxx!
>
>Erik B.
>'72 Cutlass S
>hello , i sell computers for aliving(or sort of living),and all new
amchines should come with ps/2 mouse prts and usb support.
they als oshoud have video cards with more than 1 mb of ram, an mmx
processor, 33.6 or higher modem,16x or higher cd rom drive, and a least 2
gigs of hard drive space.Look to buy either a 200 or 233 processor, for good
measure.P.S. DO NOT GET A PACKARD BELL!!

heh.
Erik
73 Delta 88 455

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 18:23:37 -0500
From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Subject: re:what can go wrong

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_009B_01BD2375.0708B980
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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1.I had a toyota that rusted out and the frame collapsed in my driveway.
(also some ª$@$ welded on the oil change bolt)
2.sold toyo for $170,decide to pick up bmw.
3.bmw's rear fenders rot out,and shocks hold the car precariously above =
the earth by leaning on part of SPEAKER DECK.
3.Sold bmw for $300,decided to pick up camaro.
4.camaro seems ok.bought from good friend of my fathers, he says its =
"A-o-k".Camaro has mysterious click in the motor,which develops into =
worn out=20
(read:thrashed)wrist pin.Piston bounces freely inside cylinder.I try to =
kill it by going 85-or 90 to work everyday.It dosent die,just knocks =
louder.Previuos owner,caught off guard,reveals that he used to drive the =
car over median strips at 95.
5.sell camaro for $150,with new Cooper Cobra's on it.(sigh)
6.Get olds.It runs,it drives,it stops,it starts.Holy sh*t!
It required one water pump,master cylinder and soon- to- be- starter and =
carburator.It also needs a left rear quarter,windsheild reseal.It dosent =
handle too well, but it goes when i want it to.I even pounded a nissan =
maxima,and got not a scratch(honestly)-the nissan guy had to replace =
whole fender.So far, only gripables I have is grounding out at high =
speed on corners,and the exterior.

Erik
73 Olds Delta 88 455

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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2027.0"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3Dªffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>1.<STRONG>I had a toyota that rusted out and the =
frame=20
collapsed in my driveway.</STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><STRONG>(also some ª$@$ welded on the oil change=20
bolt)</STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><STRONG>2.sold toyo for $170,decide to pick up=20
bmw.</STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><STRONG>3.bmw's rear fenders rot out,and shocks hold =
the car=20
precariously above the earth by leaning on part of SPEAKER=20
DECK.</STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><STRONG>3.Sold bmw for $300,decided to pick up=20
camaro.</STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=3D2>4.camaro seems ok.bought from good friend of =
my=20
fathers, he says its &quot;A-o-k&quot;.Camaro has mysterious click in =
the=20
motor,which develops into worn out </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=3D2>(read:thrashed)wrist pin.Piston bounces =
freely inside=20
cylinder.I try to kill it by going 85-or 90 to work everyday.It dosent =
die,just=20
knocks louder.Previuos owner,caught off guard,reveals that he used to =
drive the=20
car over median strips at 95.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=3D2>5.sell camaro for $150,with new Cooper =
Cobra's on=20
it.(sigh)</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=3D2>6.Get olds.It runs,it drives,it stops,it =
starts.Holy=20
sh*t!</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=3D2>It required one water pump,master cylinder =
and soon-=20
to- be- starter and carburator.It also needs a left rear =
quarter,windsheild=20
reseal.It dosent handle too well, but it goes when i want it to.I even =
pounded a=20
nissan maxima,and got not a scratch(honestly)-the nissan guy had to =
replace=20
whole fender.So far, only gripables I have is grounding out at high =
speed on=20
corners,and the exterior.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=3D2></FONT></STRONG>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=3D2>Erik</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=3D2>73 Olds Delta 88=20
455</FONT></STRONG></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 22:49:52 EST
From: JESSI1701 <JESSI1701@aol.com>
Subject: 1981 CUTLASS SUPREME DIESEL 2DR  SDN

TO WHOEVER WANTS IT CALL AND MAKE AN OFFER. WILL SELL THIS WEEK.

305 362 7905,  MIAMI  FL AREA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 20:40:49 -0800
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: centinel

OldsGuyGA wrote:

>    hey, sounds like cool show.. how would someone on ga recieve it on
> tv...
>
>  olds guy ga

   ala satelitis maximus.....transponder C-3...channel 11.....learn
it...love it...LIVE IT!!!...Hoagie

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 23:30:54 EST
From: TFX FLYER <TFXFLYER@aol.com>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong

hi i have also had the expereince of it being the braker inside the light
switch itself.but most of the time its a short or something causing the
problem,so check every thing then replace the light switch in the dash.oh also
ive had it be the dimmer switcht on the floor being rusted and corroded badly
check that maybe that will help you i hope. thnxs tfx

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 23:43:26 EST
From: DR OLDS350 <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Title Search: Illinois

I live in Illinois, and just recieved some title papers for my Rallye 350. The
Illinois title search goes back 8-10 years. The person to contact is:
Motor Vehicle Record Division
Record Inquiry Section
Keith Glynn, Supervisor
Phone ª: (217) 782-6992
It's located in Springfield, Illinois

I hope that this helps!!
Jim
70 Cutlass W31
70 Rallye 350

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 98 23:52:10 -0400
From: Mike Hall <oldsmike@flash.net>
Subject: Re: NON-Expiring registration for Michigan

Brad Ross writes:
>Do you know if this goes by the same rules as a "Historical Vehicle" plate.
>I would like to put one on my 71 Delta 88 that I drive daily.  I wonder if
>they allow this.
>TIA.

Sorry, Brad, the same rules apply to the Historical Plate...


Michael R. Hall: OCA ª17903                    Ortonville, Michigan
Hall Communications, LLC.
E-Mail: oldsmike@flash.net

1972 Cutlass S - 1987 '88' Custom Cruiser - 1991 '88' Royale Broughm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 00:01:45 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong

> originals, so they've had a good life. Heck, put some brushes in the starter
> while you're at it, anti-sieze the bolts, clean and put dielectric grease on
the > connections down there, use shrink wrap tubing on the newly soldered >
connections. Eliminate problems for a number of years.

Thanx for the advice, Dave - the only problem is that the car may only see
active service until the end of this winter - if you looked at it right now I
think you too might judge it as being "unworthy" of such royal treatment.  =B) 
-
-- Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech 468 BigBlock '76 Cutlass Supreme
Brougham http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/ mailto:lee@mergetel.com Welland,
Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 00:02:12 EST
From: TFX FLYER <TFXFLYER@aol.com>
Subject: Re: what can go wrong

i almost crashed a 68 camero i had , i was crusing down a back road a high
rate of speed decide to stand on it  next thing i know i heard a loud
explosion and fire comes clear up both sides of the car .thinking its on fire
i stand on the brakes enough to slow down to about 30 and get ready to jump
but downt see anymore fire so i stop and look under neath to find no fire at
all.i found out later it does that every time you put the throttle to the
floor,was pretty scary at first.after that i used to shock my freindswith it.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 00:15:50 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: Blinking head lights

> The only real solution to this problem is to take the load out of that 
device.
> Bypassing it would result in frying Your ignition switch..... Use relays.

I thank you immensely for your response, Esko, however, not being a whiz when 
it
comes to wiring and electrical matters, I need to kindly ask you to be a bit
more specific in my instructions - how am I to wire up a relay, and what kinda
relay do I need to use? Further help on this matter is greatly appreciated. - 
--
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech 468 BigBlock '76 Cutlass Supreme
Brougham http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/ mailto:lee@mergetel.com Welland,
Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 00:18:43 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: "Strobe Lights"

> The circuit breaker in the headlight switch is overheating.
> Replace the headlight switch. there is no fuse for protection to that
> circuit,other
> than the breaker itself.

I was just looking over the wiring diagram in my Haynes manual for the
car, Mike.  That makes sense, and I just happen to know where there's a
'77 Monte for a donor!  I'll look into that, thanx!

PS  Is there anything I can do to prevent this from happening in the
future or is it just a one-in-a-million type of deal that this happened
(well, not one-in-a-MILLION, but you get where I'm comin from)
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
468 BigBlock '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 00:19:18 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong

> The circuit breaker in the headlight switch is overheating.
> Replace the headlight switch. there is no fuse for protection to that
> circuit,other
> than the breaker itself.

BTW, were you referring to the actual headlamp switch in the dash, or the
dimmer switch on the floor??
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
468 BigBlock '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 98 0:14:45 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds

>>hello , i sell computers for aliving(or sort of living),and all new
>amchines should come with ps/2 mouse prts and usb support.
>they als oshoud have video cards with more than 1 mb of ram, an mmx
>processor, 33.6 or higher modem,16x or higher cd rom drive, and a least 2
>gigs of hard drive space.Look to buy either a 200 or 233 processor, for good
>measure.P.S. DO NOT GET A PACKARD BELL!!
>
>heh.
>Erik
>73 Delta 88 455
>

      Heck,  I hope you can clue me in here.  What is wrong with the Packard
Bell.  Should I invest in something else?  I bought this thing 4 yrs. ago
and would hate to know that I'm missing something of any importance.  It
even has spell check, although I usually don't use it.  It normally takes
anywhere from 45 to 60 seconds with it's 14.4 modem to download about 80
e-mail messages from this list.

      Glenn
      '69 4-4-2
      Xerox Printing Systems Engineer

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 00:27:02 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Can't start with lights on

> is there anyone who knows why my 69 442 won't start with the lights on?
> it acts like a kill switch.

Although you probably would have experienced other problems if this was the
case by now, but have you tried another battery?  Perhaps the battery
you've got in there can't take the extra load.  I know some batteries drop
to virtually no power when they have a load put on them - but then again,
if that was the case it probably wouldn't crank the car.  Just a thought,
though!
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
468 BigBlock '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 21:30:56 -0800
From: cya442@mindspring.com
Subject: Re: What Can Go Right

Chris,

    Once you are able to get a good look at your car (in the sun!) please
let me know how well the body shop did.  I am getting ready to have my '68
442 done, it is also Teal Frost (I believe a bluish color), and have been
looking for a reliable body shop out here in Southern Ca. to do the work.
If you don't mind me asking, how much did the work cost and what did they
have to do?  I do remember that your car was hit last year but don't
remember to what extent the damage was.

Thanks again,

Chris Miller
'68 442
Tustin, CA
mailto:cya442@mindspring.com


Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Well the 1968 442 is ready for pickup.  I just had an original paint job
> put on the car and it was painted back to Teal Frost.  When I went
> yesterday to check on the car, to see how the prepping was going, I was
> told that the car was done.  They had some problems with insurance
> companies giving them the go ahead on other cars so they put two guys
> on mine and got it done.  When I went to see it inside the car shed,
> my mouth nearly touched the ground.  Beautifullllllllllll.  I was
> amazed at how stunning this car looked.  It was an overcast day so
> I didn't get to see it in the sun.  It will probably take my breath
> away.  Quick get the oxygen.....  The body work that was done came
> out wonderfully.  I am on cloud 9 folks.  It has been 9 months of
> hell for me, not having this car to drive.  All I need to do next is
> get the over-the-axle tail pipes changed from the cutlass pipes that
> are on there to straight-outs.  I need to get some chrome tips.  I have
> a pair that are original but showing a little wear.  Does anyone know
> of where I get an original pair reasonably or a good repro.  I talked
> to YO and they claimed that theirs may have flaws.  I declined on that.
>
> Pretty soon I'll have pictures :-) :-) :-)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 00:36:04 EST
From: EDZX6 <EDZX6@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Hot Engine (Questions)

If you really want to be accurate put a thermometer in the pan of water while
you're heating the thermostat (to see if it works) and you can also see if the
thermostat is opening at the proper temperature.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 00:41:44 -0500
From: "John Gill" <jgill@idmi.com>
Subject: Re: edelbrock heads

George,

I'd be very interested to hear the solution(s) to this one.  I'm waiting on
the heads also.  I have PS and PB also - not to mention AC and the factory
AC bracket would interfere with a taller valve cover.  If the taller covers
would hit the vacuum booster, I saw an ad in the back of the new Car Craft
(pg88) for a company called Master Power Brakes.  They produce aftermarket
conversions and perhaps they can offer some help for the brake part of the
problem.

Master Power Brakes
254-1 Rolling Hills Rd.
Mooresville, NC  28115
(704) 664-8866

Any word on time of availability or pricing?


John Gill
jgill@idmi.com


- ----------
> From: George S Case <gpcase@compuserve.com>
> To: OLDSMOBILE LIST <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: edelbrock heads
> Date: Friday, January 16, 1998 8:24 PM
>
> Thank you for your response regarding using tall valve covers with the
> edelbrock heads but i think you missed my question. I am not concerned
> about the cost of buying taller valve covers. I have a 1970 442 with
power
> steering and power brakes so i do not think that i have enough room to
fit
> taller valve covers in the engine compartment. What options do i have ie
> going to manual disc brakes instead of power brakes. Thanks again.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 00:13:20 -0500
From: "John Gill" <jgill@idmi.com>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Right

Chris,

I did some searching for what I hoped was highest quality tips for 68-72
442.  I ordered a set from Supercars Unlimited of Portland, OR.  They get
$70 per pair but they claim that they're the best available (and I believe
it).  I had a pair welded inside of 3 inch tailpipes and the chrome held up
perfect.  SCU insists that they are show quality with one exception - the
chrome is better.

John Gill
jgill@idmi.com


> I need to get some chrome tips.  I have
> a pair that are original but showing a little wear.  Does anyone know
> of where I get an original pair reasonably or a good repro.  I talked
> to YO and they claimed that theirs may have flaws.  I declined on that.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 00:47:46 -0500 (EST)
From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.edu>
Subject: Re: Olds bumpers

> Here's what the ad from JWO says (including typos, etc), minus what Steve 
said
> was sold as of last night (Tuesday). The [maybe 1978] is my comment.
>
> The following bumpers arc NOS. but shelf worn. Expect to find minor scratches
in > chrome. Good for rechromiong or sweet ears. Prices are $100.00 each.
including
                                  ^^^^^^^^^^^

The "sweet ears" part is what got me . . . .

8)
peg

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 00:53:07 EST
From: Knightvd <Knightvd@aol.com>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong - bosses' car

Luckily Uncle Joe did some decent body work, retained my job.  Quit few years
later, no hard feelings, besides his car was just another crappy Plymouth.

Vince Knight
71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 22:28:10 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: 4-4-2 For Sale

Got this notice - disclaimers apply.  Non-list member, reply to his e-mail
privately.

Like new 1986 Olds 442,Adult driven,Black/Silver,T-tops,loaded,54,000
miles,Garage
kept,factory car cover, Must See! $7,500.00 Call Dave 219-696-0035,or Email
llsdas@mail.icongrp.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 22:33:32 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Green's Law (Was Re: What Can Go Wrong)

Hmmmm, well Lisa's law that was practiced this evening on the freeway is
that if you smell something odd and can't identify any potential stinkers
in front of you, follow my dear old daddy's Madsen's Maxim - put the vent
on to see if the air coming through still smells then roll down the window
to see if the smell is stronger or coming from the outside of the car.
Normally either of the last two will dissipate the odor if its NOT coming
from your vehicle.  Tonight it was yet another worked hard work truck in
front of me putting off some burnt oil/fluid smell.

Doesn't help the paranoia though!

Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://server.exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://server.exo.com/~jht/olds/oldsbbs/index.cgi

Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://server.exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 01:52:40 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: "Strobe Lights"

TFX FLYER wrote:

> hi i have also had the expereince of it being the braker inside the light
> switch itself.but most of the time its a short or something causing the
> problem,so check every thing then replace the light switch in the dash.oh 
also
> ive had it be the dimmer switcht on the floor being rusted and corroded badly
> check that maybe that will help you i hope. thnxs tfx

Ok, great...thanx alot, TFX.  I'll check all my leads, and if all else fails
I'll just go visit the bone yard.  Thanx again to everyone who responded to my
problem!

- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
468 BigBlock '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 02:05:42 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Intake & Carb

>I am rebulding my Olds 350 (1979 VIN R) and I am having problems with
 [snip]
>I have an Edelbrock Performer 600cfm mounted on my original
>intake....with a little modification it worked (even if it wasn't
>supposed to).

OK, my first question is what mods did you make to get the AFB-based
square-bore carb onto your original Q-jet carb; spacer, I'm assuming?

>I NEED a new intake and I wanted to go with the Edelbrock Performer
>Dual Plane (non-EGR).  The dealer says that it won't work becuase of the
>linkages, but I'm betting that there's a way to modify ANYTHING in order
>to get it to work.

If the carb works on your current manifold, it will work on the Performer.
The regular Performer includes provisions for the EGR, but also includes the
block-off plate if you're so inclined. It also has the bolt holes for
mounting a square-bore carb, as well as a think plate adapter to do so.

>If there is no way to use this setup....does anyone know of someone
>with a stock "79" Quadrajet (rebuilt or not) that would either sell, or
>trade me for my Edelbrock Performer 600.

Again, unless there is some boss our mounting bracket on the current
cast-iron intake itself, ther Performer will be a bolt-on. Enjoy!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 02:05:45 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile program on TV

>now I will get the good stuff recorded and not the "Peruvian Fiat Dirt Devil
>Mountain Race'.
>
>That reminds me. Has anybody else ever wondered about the sanity of the
>knotheads who stand right next to the (gravel & dirt) roads these guys are
>racing on? The in-car cameras make it obvious that one miscalculation by the
>driver could wipe out several spectators.

Yeah, just like the "good-old days" of sports car racing in the US and 
Europe...

I can't imagine rallying as a spectator sport; you watch one car at a time
passing the same point, once. Then go home. Give me a half-mile dirt oval or
a 1/4 mile strip any day...

BTW, who's going to tape that Olds show? We don't get cable, but I'd *love*
to see it!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 02:05:50 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: HELP!!!!! how do I adjust my carb?

>I have a 72 cutlass supreme, 350, 4bbl quadrajet, auto trans, and I just
>installed a pertronix ignition in place of the points and installed a crane
>adjustable vaccum advance on the distrib.  I have the timing at about 11
>degrees, and the vaccum advance is on the most sensitive setting.  It
>runs OK, except I can't get my god damn m%^ª&^%$* f*&^*&%))(*& carburetor
>adjusted so it idles right.
>
>My friend said to adjust it so the idle is at about 1000 RPM, and then turn
>the idle mixture screws clockwise (lean) until it starts to die, then back off
>1/2 turn (do one idle mixture screw at a time), and then adjust the idle speed
>screw to where it's supposed to be (in my case, 1100 RPM in park, 600 RPM
in gear)

You can do it this way, but it's not necessarily a good idea (as you've
discovered). If you turn the idle speed up too high, you may be cutting into
the primary circuits on the carb, in which case your idle mixture screws
will become irrelevant.

The factory procedure (at least a basic starting point, if not gospel), is
to turn the idle mixture screws in all the way (gently), and then back out
four turns; then, set the idle speed stop screw to a specified speed in
drive (about 650rpm), and turn both the screws in a 1/4 turn at a time until
the specific idle speed is attained (600 rpm).

 [snip]
>HOW CAN I ADJUST MY CARB? Please reply immediately if you have any advice,
>because this is driving me nuts!!!  BTW, I did all this with the vaccum
>advance hooked up... are you supposed to disconnect it before you adjust teh
>idle??

Oh, yes, you are definitely supposed to disconnect this when setting the
idle. If your vacuum advance is kicking it during idle (which it shouldn't
be doing, btw), it's going to cause a change in the engine vacuum, which
will cause a change in timing, which will cause another change in engine
vacuum, which will then change your timing *again*, which will... well, you
get the idea (your car will idle like garbage).

Set your idle with the advance disconnected, and then tighten that vacuum
advance up if its screwing up your idle. You don't need it kicking in except
at cruising speed, which is hopefully a bit above your idle speed (which
should be in the 600-700rpm range; that 1100 speed sounds like the high-idle
speed for a cold engine; usually idle in Park is only about 100rpm higher
than in drive- if you're dropping 500 rpm when you put it into drive, you've
either got a problem with your torque converter, or you've replaced your
transmission fluid with bread dough).

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 02:05:53 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Chrome tips

>For what it's worth, the best chrome trumpets I've ever seen was the
>inconel ones from Brother's.  I have an OLD OLD set from Walker still in
>the box, but they aren't as good as quality in my opinion.

I'm happy with the pair of trumpets that came already-welded on the system I
got from Fusick's, though I don't know if these are the same quality as the
ones they sell separately.

>Congrats to Chris Sparks on finally getting that puppy done!!!!

Ditto on that; it sounds exhilirating! And to think, I was happy when I got
my SX all the same color (not necessarily the same *shade*, but all more or
less yellow anyway...). Now I know there is something more to shoot for!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 02:05:48 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds

>486, ouch!  Need to be surfing in style with a pentuim 200 mxx!

HEY! I've just *upgraded* to a 486/33, so watch what you're saying... ;)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 02:05:55 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Rochester 2-Jet I.D.

Regarding the ID on those carbs, I'm puzzled by those numbers. Not just the
fact that they don't show up in the books *at all* (and the book lists all
Rochester ª's from 1951-1990), but the fact that these numbers don't match
the usual patterns. Here's what you'd expect from reading the two carb ª's:

>7029683
>7031575

70= These first two digits simply designate a Rochester product

The third digit is the series of the carb, followed by the last digit from
the year of the date of the application; Thus, the 2 and 3 designate a carb
from the '60's (0 and 1 were the Fifties, into the early Sixties; 4 and 5
were the Seventies). The fourth digit (9) in the first carb ª makes this to
be a Rochester carb for a 1969 something. The fourth digit in the second
number, however, is odd, since the "3" series carbs usually designated the
early emissions-controlled carbs used in the '65-'67 cars, when things like
A.I.R. and C.C.C. required specially-calibrated carbs, and a "1" wouldn't
fit in with that. Then again, Rochester often deviated from the standard
practice of the fourth digit being the last digit of the year.

Now, the last three digits usually specify the application of the carb
within a particular year, and usually, the second-to-last digit correlates
to the manufacturer (but not always, and not consistently, but most all of
the time). The chart that Year One reprints is pretty accurate:

1,2=Chevy
3=Cadillac
4=Buick
5=Olds
6=Pontiac (although sometimes a 7)

Now, a 7 or 8 in the second-to-last position usually indicates a non-GM
application (like Checker, Chrysler, Ford, marine and the like), so I'd be
inclined to think the carbs you list are something like late-60's Rochester
carbs not produced for GM applications.

One other possibility; service carbs usually employed the numbering schemes
from the years they were introduced, not the years they were actually
intended to be installed on as replacements. It's possible that the two
carbs are late-60's service carbs for earlier applications.

Sorry I can't be of more help; can you describe what the carbs look like,
and double-check those numbers? Are there any other ID tags or numbers, or
part numbers on any of the carb components? The books really don't even have
anything close to a range of numbers like the ones you provided.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 02:29:48 EST
From: BIG JERMES <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Engine rebuild ?'s

In a message dated 98-01-16 18:06:27 EST, you write:

<< Is it possible, or "right" to reuse the pistons.

 Also has anyone used edelbrocks "power package" ? Manifold,Carb,Cam.  If so
do
 you like it?

 I figure that It will cost around $1,300 for parts.  I will tear down and put
 back together.  Sound about right?
  >>

well, i just rebuilt my '72 350 about 3 months ago.  i used new cast pistons,
edelbrock performer intake, and a melling camshaft.  melling, you say?  well i
just so happened to look in one of their catalogs one day and noticed the
specs on one of their cams.  the exact same as the performer, only mucho
cheaper.  so i got it.  i have a toro oil pan, melling oil pump, nodular
crank, stock rods, oil galley restrictors, cloyes true roller timing chain,
moly rings, and ª7 heads with new exhaust valves, springs, ect., and i ground
down the egr bumps in them.  im running a quadrajet out of a '80 or so eighty-
eight.  distributor came out of a '78 toro.  i love the way the engine runs!
i ran the edelbrock specs through a program of mine, and it says im making
around 290hp.  ill definitely believe it as i have outrun several 5.0s even
with an auto and 2.29 gears.  i had very few problems with the install into my
'78 cutlass.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 02:39:24 -0500
From: Gerald Hughes <ghughes@hughesconsulting.com>
Subject: Re: Intake & Carb

Robert,
Thank for your interest and useful information.  I seem to have the
intake nailed down; Performer Olds 350 (EGR/non-EGR) ª3711.

But now I am having a dilemna on which carb I should use since I have
an option.  Should I keep the Edelbrock Performer 600cfm ª1405 with the
5/8 inch spacer, or should I trade it for a '78 QuadraJet which would
have come stock on the car.

The only other influence is that the spacer does not exactly match
edges with the stock intake I have which may be inhibit the airflow.
Will this spacer do the same thing on the Performer Olds 350
(EGR/non-EGR) ª3711 and interrupt the airflow which I desparately need
to be at peak flow?  Would the absence of the spacer when using the
QuadraJet make a cleaner flowing tunnel?

Which of these options will give me the best performance?

Again, Bob, Thank You for your assistance.

Gerald Hughes










Robert Barry wrote:
>
> >I am rebulding my Olds 350 (1979 VIN R) and I am having problems with
>  [snip]
> >       I have an Edelbrock Performer 600cfm mounted on my original
> >intake....with a little modification it worked (even if it wasn't
> >supposed to).
>
> OK, my first question is what mods did you make to get the AFB-based
> square-bore carb onto your original Q-jet carb; spacer, I'm assuming?
>
> >       I NEED a new intake and I wanted to go with the Edelbrock Performer
> >Dual Plane (non-EGR).  The dealer says that it won't work becuase of the
> >linkages, but I'm betting that there's a way to modify ANYTHING in order
> >to get it to work.
>
> If the carb works on your current manifold, it will work on the Performer.
> The regular Performer includes provisions for the EGR, but also includes the
> block-off plate if you're so inclined. It also has the bolt holes for
> mounting a square-bore carb, as well as a think plate adapter to do so.
>
> >       If there is no way to use this setup....does anyone know of someone
> >with a stock "79" Quadrajet (rebuilt or not) that would either sell, or
> >trade me for my Edelbrock Performer 600.
>
> Again, unless there is some boss our mounting bracket on the current
> cast-iron intake itself, ther Performer will be a bolt-on. Enjoy!
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª1061
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