To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1013


oldsmobile-digest     Tuesday, December 16 1997     Volume 01 : Number 1013



Talking to ourselves
Re: carpet dye
Re: Intake Manifold Question
Re: Quad 4 with no PCV
Re: A little humor and off the wall question.
Re: A little humor and off the wall question.
My car on TV again!
Where's Bill Reilly?/Car Craft photo
Re: License Plate ideas...
Re: License Plate ideas...
Re: License Plate ideas...
Re: power tour /top speed limiters
Re: Synthetic Oil or Not Synthetic?
Re: A little humor and off the wall question.
Re: License Plate ideas...
Re: The Perfect Woman
Fisher Body Manual - 1969
Re: road trip
Re: power tour /top speed limiters
Re: Fusick Automotive :)
Re: How do I drop the gastank
Re: Rad Cap w/ An Attitude...
Re: A little humor and off the wall question.
Re: Are these SSIIIs something special?
Re: Intake Manifold Question
Re: Are these SSIIIs something special?
Re: License Plate ideas...
Re: License Plate ideas...
Re[2]: Withdrawal symptoms
Transmission question
Re: How do I drop the gastank
Re: Cork Vs. Rubber ?
Quad 4 Ignition, PCV and Foaming Oil
Re: License Plate ideas...
Buy these
Re: The one that got away
Garage Heating?
Re: Quad 4 head gaskets (long)
Re: Quad 4 with no PCV
Re: License Plate ideas...
gasket info....
Re: Garage Heating?
Re: Old Racer's Trick
Re: Rad Cap w/ An Attitude...
Re: power tour /top speed limiters
Engine Emission Parts
Go Speed Racer!
Re: Synthetic Oil or Not Synthetic?
Re: A little humor and off the wall question.
Bill the "Perfect 10 "car guy!
Re: License Plate ideas...

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 22:34:37 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Talking to ourselves

RC admists:
I DO talk to my 4-4-2.  Out loud
too! (no kidding)

I can probably top that - when I walk away from my VC I have the habit of
patting her 'nose' or tail lights.  I just like to tell her goodbye.  Yep,
we definately need a life.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 22:33:02 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: carpet dye

I've only used these to touch up armrests with liver spots (honest).  The
driver side was done before I got it - over 4 yrs. and the pass. side I
just did.  Driver side still looks good. Considering taking off the
discoloration from the past smoking owner on my headliner with a light coat
of this.  Biggest thing is matching the color.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 01:29:13 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Intake Manifold Question

>How do I tell the difference between the intake ports and the water
>ports?

The water passages are the ports on the ends. The crossover port is the one
in the middle. The intake passages are found in pairs between the water
ports and the crossover port. Kind of like this (along with the sealants
that I have had good luck with when used along with the stock-style
sheetmetal valley pan):

  _    _ _   _   _ _   _
 |W|  |I|I| |C| |I|I| |W|
 |_|  |_|_| |_| |_|_| |_|

W= water passage (blue RTV)
I= intake port (spray-on copper)
C= exhaust crossover (red RTV)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 01:40:01 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Quad 4 with no PCV

>Let me explain why the white stuff is there simply. what happens to a hot
>cup of coffee when you put a piece of plastic over the top and let it cool
>down? right moisture builds up on it. the same thing happens in the
>crankcase and similarly in the gas tank. excessive whit stuff builds up in
>the Q4 when only short trips are made. if the motor is allowed to warm up
>and run for a while the excess moisture is evaporated. the CV system allows
>vapors to escape from the crankcase but fresh air is not induced into the
>crankcase.

Hmmm, maybe I'm missing something here about this system; if no fresh air is
introduced to the crankcase, then where is the moisture coming from? Blowby?

>The Q4 has a oil/air separator allow vapor escape but not oil. i

And a one-way valve, I suppose, to prevent air from being drawn back in.
Where on the crankcase is this separator located?

>do not know why this was chosen but there must be a good reason. possibly
>cuz there is no EGR, thus no way to recirculate the vapors from the
>crankshaft back into the intake manifold. the Q4 is as close as your gonna

"recirculating the vapors from the crankshaft back into the intake manifold"
is the job of the PCV, not the EGR system. I'm surprised that the
emissions-regulations folks would allow the blowby gasses in the crankcase
(including unburned hydrocarbons) to be simply vented to the atmosphere;
especially with the oil separator <to avoid fouling>, it would seem simple
to simply draw those vapors back into the intake stream.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 01:54:52 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: A little humor and off the wall question.

>Project Power Wagon
>1977 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser station wagon
>350 c.i. Chevy with nitrous oxide injection
>
>By the way, does anyone have any tail lights for this 1977?  Also, does
>anyone have an extra blower motor relay they want to sell?  It is the one
>that mounts to the area by the blower motor out by the fire wall.  It has a
>metal shell and a harness plugs into it.

I got my relay at a local parts warehouse ('78 Electra w/AC- likely same
application); costs all of $8 new. I've got my old one, which still works;
how about $1 plus shipping? ;)

No, seriously, this part should be readily avaiable at any parts store.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 00:12:48 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: Re: A little humor and off the wall question.

On Mon, 15 Dec 1997, Edward J. Hufnagel wrote:

>
> On Sun, 14 Dec 1997 20:34:30 -0500 jgoble@nishanet.com (Jeramy Goble)
> writes:
> >Jerry Christopher wrote:
>
> >> Does anyone besides me name thier ride?
>
I just thought of it now, but perhaps I'd call my car "The Supremicist"

Ray dealing with "El Nino" in the Sonoran Desert Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 00:17:22 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: My car on TV again!

Hey,
Hot Rod Magazine TV show played the Power Tour episode again.  I set my
vcr to tape it, but it didn't happen damn it.  I did see it before, and
there is a scene with my car.  Of course they were showing a car drive in
front of mine while it was parked and you can see it through the windows
of the driving car.  If anyone happened to notice the front end of an 87
Cutlass at (I believe) the Denver spot, that was mine!  Next year, I hope
for at least a background profile shot!

Ray dealing with "El Nino" in the Sonoran Desert Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 00:22:15 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: Where's Bill Reilly?/Car Craft photo

I noticed today thatthe "Real Ride" photo in the November Car Craft is an
85 Cutlass owned by William Reilly.  Is that the same Bill around here?

Ray dealing with "El Nino" in the Sonoran Desert Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 00:23:44 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: Re: License Plate ideas...

On Mon, 15 Dec 1997 Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com wrote:

>
> O.K., here's a question to the list members...
> What are some of the cool Olds/Car related personalized plates, I've got a
> couple of good ones for my 68 droptop, but I'd love some other ideas
>
>
> Considering:
> for the Speed Racer fan I am...Racer X...
>
> Come on...be creative!
>
> Scott Wheeler
> 68 442 Conv
> Dallas

I saw a 68 Cutlass Conv. in PA a few years back with license plate:
EZ4U2NV.
I envied him.


>
>
>

Ray dealing with "El Nino" in the Sonoran Desert Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 00:21:25 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: License Plate ideas...

> >         It works out great because only one letter is backwards in a
rear-view mirror. >       T1 3VOM

Ok ok, better add my list here, for those who haven't seen it yet...

81 Olds 425  "ROCKIT 1" - Summarizes the engine, the stereo, and the
words uttered after many races...
Nicknamed "The Rockit"
70 Buick GS455   "BT UR 4D"  (Beat Your Ford) - Rear window asks "Have
you beaten a Ford... Lately?"
Nicknamed "The Buick" "The Gran Sport" or just "The GS"  (I know,
~very~ creative!)
83 Buick Turbo Regal (GN wannabe)  When I finally get it going, it'll
have "TRBO LVR" If I can...
Nicknamed simply "the GN" cuz it's dressed up like one.
83 Cutlass v6.  Has no plates of its own, and has yet to ~earn~ a
nickname.  Wait.  How about "Trouble"  I'm sure ~those~ plates are
taken, though...  Hmm...

A friend has a 69 camaro (yeah, I'm still not sure if I should use those
words in the same sentence!) He tried to get  "1fine69" but the Montana
DMV said that plate was censorred.

WARNING:::  BAD STUFF FOLLOWING!  IF YOU ARE EASILY OFFENDED, DO NOT
SCROLL DOWN!!!

Umm, digest members... Sorry.  Close your eyes????  Maybe?












Here are some plates I've always wanted to see!

FU Q 2      F**k you too
TIHZ TA3    (Mirror plates -- Eat sh*t)
NE1469    Anyone for 69?
TOURNEZ - This one actually made it to a vehicle.  Told the DMV he was
religious - Honest!  (To Your Knees)
DUFMIVR   Dislyxic (sp?) version of Cheech & Chong's "Muffdivr."  This
version was rejected by the MT DMV.

Well, enough porno for one night.  Hope some enjoyed...


               Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
        Sidney Montana

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 00:24:34 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: Re: License Plate ideas...

On Mon, 15 Dec 1997, Trevor Lee wrote:

> > What are some of the cool Olds/Car related personalized plates, I've got a
> > couple of good ones for my 68 droptop, but I'd love some other ideas
> > Come on...be creative!
>
>         Here's one I somehow thought up one day - it doesn't make ANY sense
> unless you think what it would look like in a rear view mirror:
>

>         RVO VUM

I like that!
>
>         It works out great because only one letter is backwards in a 
rear-view
> mirror.
> --
> Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
> Rat-Powered '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
> http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
> mailto:lee@mergetel.com
> Welland, Ontario, Canada
>
>
>

Ray dealing with "El Nino" in the Sonoran Desert Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 00:06:28 -0700
From: "Igor" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: power tour /top speed limiters

I have also experienced this on my '95 Intrepid.  It just kicks you back
into the seat at aprox. 115mph.  But I think that the Chrysler ones are
rev. limiter because once I was passing a group or RVs downhill (I mean
down) in the country and the car toped of 125mph and then it kicked back.
Perhaps if you talk to some of the electricians about what you can do,
because in my case I think that the electric fuel pump just cuts out and
then reengages at lower speed.  I think that some of the performance chips
can take care of this or minor mods to the computer board to disable the
switch.  If you find out, let us know..........Then again, my favorite
driving car  is my '81 Delta and the '81 Regency and their speed limiters
will be a little bit tricky to bypass (ie. aerodynamic of a flying 2" by 6"
sheet of plywood turned sideways)


Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (project)
1981 Regancy 307 TH200R-4, Propane
1976 Delta 88 455
1995 Intrepid 3.3L

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 00:23:07 -0700
From: "Igor" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil or Not Synthetic?

I have used both synthetic and non-synthetic oils in all my cars(except the
'76), as well as Slick50 in the '81 Delta.  Synthetic oil is definitley
better.  It is thiner, so flows a lot better at low temp, and the car is
easier to start.  It is also supposed to last longer (stays cleaner longer
for me) and have better high-temp protection.  Now, you have to consider
the condition of your motor  befoure you decide which oil to use.  If your
motor has a minor leak somewhere with the conventional 10W30 oil, expect it
to become major with synthetic or at the vary least a lot worse then it is
now.  Also, if your engine burns even a little oil, it will burn a lot more
with synthetic, and that gets pretty expensive.  Another problem that I
have heard about these synthetic oils is that their sludge buildup is a lot
harder to clean/flush then the conventional oil, but this has not been my
experience.  So, in my oppinion, if your motor is less then realy good, you
should stick with the conventional oil and just change it more often.

As far as Slick50 goes, it is a rip-off.  First of all, I noticed NO
improvment whatsoever.  My motor was not easier to start in the cold and it
did not protect it anymore. (it died anyways).  Befoure I put it in, people
told me that it is not a good idea, but I did not listen.  Now, appart from
not doing anything and costing me money, it also left a yelowish reside all
over the engine (inside) which started to peal already (only 10,000miles
since I put it in).  Just look at it this way: the teflon frying pan works
great, but peals off over time.  This is actually well stuck on teflon, not
just suspended through oil in an engine.  The work on the teflon in the
engine is a lot worse than that of the pan, so all the peals and crap from
it will clog your motor and oil filter.  If I were you, I would not use it.
 Simply, just change the oil often and flush the motor from a time to time
(not too much). Don't forget that the biggest thing those adatives
accomplish is the development of a superb and effective product marketing,
really nothing more.  If you want your motor to last, drive it well and
take care of it.  If you constantly run it hard, being an Olds, it will
last long, but will eventually die on you.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (project)
1981 Regancy 307 TH200R-4, Propane
1976 Delta 88 455
1995 Intrepid 3.3L

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 00:26:04 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: A little humor and off the wall question.

Oh, and as to the "talking to your cars..." bit, I do that quite often,
too.  Except mine are usually stuff like:

"come on baby, you can start today.  Please..."

Or if I'm working on someone else's f**d, it's more often "You son of a
b****!  You ~will~ work!"  (Or other assorted obscenities while trying
to put modern electronics into an otherwise useless automobile...)

I think there are many of us nutty ones out there who do that...

               Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
        Sidney Montana

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 00:29:53 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: Re: License Plate ideas...

On Mon, 15 Dec 1997, Kurt Heinrich wrote:

> Trevor Lee wrote:
> >
> > > What are some of the cool Olds/Car related personalized plates, I've got 
a
> > > couple of good ones for my 68 droptop, but I'd love some other ideas
> > > Come on...be creative!
> >
> >         Here's one I somehow thought up one day - it doesn't make ANY sense
> > unless you think what it would look like in a rear view mirror:
> >
> >         RVO VUM
> >
> >         It works out great because only one letter is backwards in a
rear-view > > mirror. > > Try: > > 3M TA3

HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA H AH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

>
> --
> Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
> 71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
>

Ray dealing with "El Nino" in the Sonoran Desert Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 02:44:16 -0500 (EST)
From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.edu>
Subject: Re: The Perfect Woman

> Of course, there are those of us who already appreciate Oldsmobiles . . .
> many times I'm the one dragging the guy to all the car shows!
> 8)
> peg
> ================
> Yeah, but where are they when ya need one?!
>
> Read more about Peg O'connor's philosophies in my new book... "The Perfect
> Woman"

On sale at the next Nats!  And I'll even autograph the chapter about me .
. . .  ;)

8)
peg (the perfect Oldsmobile woman) d'oh!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 00:49:21 -0700
From: Tim Rudolph <trudolph@frii.com>
Subject: Fisher Body Manual - 1969

Hello,
  I have a Fisher Body manual for sale for $25 shipped.  It's in pretty
good condition, no missing or falling out pages, nothing unreadable, a few
corners are bent and the front cover has a bend.  Lemme know if you're
interested.

Tim Rudolph
trudolph@frii.com
'69 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 00:54:19 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: Re: road trip

On Tue, 16 Dec 1997, clarence wirtz wrote:

> Hello everyone.  Looks like I get to make a road trip again next week.  We
> will put about 3,000 miles on the Cutlass this time.  I sure like the way
> the car rides on the road. this makes the trip enjoyable.  We are going to
> take I-10 to

I'll be cruising I-10 to 25 to 40 44 to 76 to 276 this week!

> Mobile then north on I-65 to Nashville then 24 to Clarksville.  Visit the
> kids then take 24 to 57 then south to 55 to 40 to 30 to 35 then home.  Lots
> of driving and miles.  Thats one reason I am glad I own a rocket.  It is
> reliable enough to do this a couple times a year.  One of these days I will
> be able to plan my trips to be at the same time as a rocket event some
> where, that sure would be nice.
>
> This trip is in the planning stage until sunday.  Any suggestions or ideas
> on added sites or whatever there might be in these areas?  I plan to spend a
> week on this trip, keep the cost low and have a great time doing it.

About fifty(?) miles east of Tucson, there's a cool rest stop with huge
ass boulders.  As long as you're stopping at rest stops, that's a cool
one.  Also, east of Tucson is an exit that has "THE THING?"  I won't tell
you what it is because it's supposed to be kept a mystery until you see
it.  It's cool, you should check it out, it's right off I-10 also.
And it's known by all the truckers in the country.
There's also a nice coolant stain on I-10 from when I blew off my radiator
hose.

 > > >
One other off the wall question.  >
> Am I the only one with the luck, that after I was and wax the car it either
> rains or birds turn it in to a practice target? :o  Washed the Cutlass this
> weekend and before the day  was over the birds got it.
> Clarence
> 86 Cutlass 4DR 307 O/D 2.56's
> San Antonio

I have learned I can make it rain or summon the birds from the south just
by washing my car.


>
>

Ray dealing with "El Nino" in the Sonoran Desert Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 00:58:33 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: Re: power tour /top speed limiters

On Mon, 15 Dec 1997, Jason Labay wrote:

> Tony Waldner wrote:
> >
> > Hi Everyone....
> >
> > The discussion about the Power Tour really interests me.  I even caught Hot
> > Rod TV on TNN this weekend.  They did a nice bit on it.  It looks really
> > fun!
>
> I like the idea of this too and may join in with my Impala SS.

Hey, there were so many Impala SS's last year, it was so awesome.  The one
stop at the "Rock-n-Roll Hardee's" in Illinois(?) had a train of Impali
out front, it was super cool.  There were even a few Caprice wagons turned
Impala, and "Caprice SS".  I'm trying to get my bro to drag his lazy ass
out in his Impala too.  If I ever learn more about these damn computers,
I'll put out some photos.





> Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) Akron, OH
> Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group, Inc.
> 95 Impy SS
> 80 Olds 442 W-30
> 75 H/O W-25
>

Ray dealing with "El Nino" in the Sonoran Desert Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 03:01:56 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Fusick Automotive :)

>> I have bought from Fusick on many occasions and they have all been
>> very positive experiences, including returns.
>>
>> I think they understands the concept of customer service.
>>
>I can personally attest to their customer service.  Fast and accurate,
>and they never intentionally sell junk. If they do, they make it
>right.   It's usually the best available.  Good experiences with them.
>And Year One, and Part's USA, and Supercars Unlimited, and Jim Chermack,
>and Everett Horton, and, well, Brother's has done me well the last
>couple of times, but....never mind.

I've had good luck with all the above as well (except Supercars Unlimited,
which I've never tried; don't have a catalog). My order of preference has
been Everett, then Fusick's, then Year One, then Olds Parts USA, primarily
due to proximity (Everett is just ten minutes away!). They all provide good
service, and have a healthy respect for each other. They all seem to
recognize that there's plenty of room for more than one vendor, and I've
never heard any badmouth another.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 03:01:51 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: How do I drop the gastank

>>I just removed the bumper off of my 70 rallye 350 and thought that I would
>>drop the gastank next. How do I do it? What kind of things do I have to
>>disconnect? How do I get the gastank off of the filler tube? Are there any
>>special preperations that I have to use?
 [snip of good advice]
>strap bolts with some penetrating fluid.  Then what you will need to do

Unless you live in a rust-free climate, it's unlikely that the original
straps will survive the transplant. Year One has a complete kit including
the bolts, captive nuts and straps for about $23. I bought the bolts from
them, but should probably have bought the whole setup, as the straps that
previously looked solid turned out to be rather flaky upon removal. A small
price to pay...

>is disconnect all the fuel/vent hoses that are connecting to underframe
>pipes. (or if they're bad, a razor knife is quicker).  If you  have the

I'd replace the hoses just as a matter of basic safety. Just be careful with
the hoses to the vent baffle; there's some 7/16" hose going to that baffle
that will be nearly impossible to replace. I re-used the original hose on
that part, since it only holds vapor, not fuel.

>ability to disconnect the fuel sending wire from inside the trunk, do so
>and snake the wire through the trunk hole so it will come out with the

There will also be a ground wire attached to the sheetmetal up behind the
rear axle with a 1/4" head bolt. This will likely be frozen solid, so clip
it if necessary and put on a new connector and bolt upon reinstallation, in
a new hole if necessary.

>tank.  Two long front bolts hold the front of the straps in place, and
>two small ones in the rear.  You can normally safely remove the rear
>ones without anything falling.  Figure out a way to gently support the
>gas tank while you take out the front strap bolts.  Keep in mind, these
>may be cruddy/rusted and could easily snap.  If so, you can obtain
>replacements from places like Year One, etc.  Once the front strap bolts
>are out, lower the straps and the tank.  Be careful as you do this to

Don't forget to disconnect the filler-neck to body brace, which has a 1/4"
head bolt holding it to the body. The old clamp broke on mine, so I replaced
it with a large hose clamp.

>ensure nothing hangs up.  Then the rear of the straps can be wriggled
>out of their mounting arrangement or, if you have new ones, cut off.
>Drag the tank out from under the car, and do with as you need.

I ended up lowering the tank with a small floor-jack. Some 4x4 posts would
make a nice support for the tank to slide out on, if you've got some handy;
some handy firewood would also do the trick.

>As for the filler neck, it is advisable to call a shop that specializes
>in this kind of work, such as some radiator shops can do this.  They can
>de-solder the connection and remove the neck.  DON'T try this at home.
>The fuel tank empty is worse than it is full.

If the new tank has a rubber hose for the base of the filler neck, you can
probably just cut off the old filler neck with a hacksaw or exhaust tubing
cutter. This reminds me, I ought to cut the old one off my trashed tank,
just to have one around. Some of the newer tanks are rumored to start
including the filler neck as part of the deal.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 03:01:59 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Rad Cap w/ An Attitude...

>I had one hell of a nasty experience today...I got a close up view of a
>rad cap with an attitude.  I changed the thermostat from a 180 to a 195
 [snip of horror story]
>I called a neighbour, who drove me into the hospital.  Four hours later,
>I found out that I've got third degree burns all over my face and scalp,
>not to mention severe swelling from when the cap blasted off.

YIKES!!! Sorry to hear about the injuries (my 3-yr old daughter is just
recovering from 2nd-degree burns on her leg from hot coffee, so I can't
imagine what you're going through right now).

>What in hell could cause this?  I've never HEARD of a launching rad cap
>before!  I'm guessing that the system is over-pressurizing itself, but

It sounds like the radiator cap was improperly installed. The pressure
relief valve on that cap will blow before the cap does. There are two metal
tangs on the cap that grab the top of the radiator filler neck; usually they
are very sturdy. Unless those tangs on your wayward cap are bent, I'd
suspect that the cap wasn't twisted on fully, and that when you shut off the
engine (and the coolant stopped circulating), the coolant temperature rose
(as it normally does), pressure built up, and the partially-screwed-on cap
popped off. It's also possible that only one of those tangs actually had a
hold on the radiator filler neck.

>It is possible that the new 195 stuck closed (since it wasn't a
>fail-safe)?

No, it's unlikely that the thermostat had anything to do with this. I'd
start the investigation by interviewing the offending cap.

>I'm writing this while in severe pain, drowsy from prescription Tylenol
>3's, with a bag of frozen corn sitting on the side of my face...as you
>can tell, I'm not very impressed with the Delta at this point...

Well, here's hoping for a speedy recovery.  Good luck!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 03:25:14 -0500
From: "DREW RACING" <drewracn@gte.net>
Subject: Re: A little humor and off the wall question.

Cool.  I guess I will have to stop playing online for awhile and go buy
one.  Who?  Me?  Waste time?  Whatever!

Drew Walz
DREWZILLA RACING

- ----------
> From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: A little humor and off the wall question.
> Date: Tuesday, December 16, 1997 1:54 AM
>
> >Project Power Wagon
> >1977 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser station wagon
> >350 c.i. Chevy with nitrous oxide injection
> >
> >By the way, does anyone have any tail lights for this 1977?  Also, does
> >anyone have an extra blower motor relay they want to sell?  It is the
one
> >that mounts to the area by the blower motor out by the fire wall.  It
has a
> >metal shell and a harness plugs into it.
>
> I got my relay at a local parts warehouse ('78 Electra w/AC- likely same
> application); costs all of $8 new. I've got my old one, which still
works;
> how about $1 plus shipping? ;)
>
> No, seriously, this part should be readily avaiable at any parts store.
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 03:23:23 -0500 (EST)
From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.edu>
Subject: Re: Are these SSIIIs something special?

> I suppose you could go for a set of SSIV polycasts if you could find
> them... offered on senior cars up to '76 I'd guess, 5" pattern therefore,
> nice-looking wheel too!

SS*IV's*??  I haven't seen those yet.  Tell us a little more about 'em?
Same design, different material?

8)
peg

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 07:33:25 +0000
From: "James E. Brady III" <James.E.Brady.1@gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Intake Manifold Question

At 04:45 PM 12/13/97 -0800, you wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I'm planning on replacing the gaskets and seals on my '72 Cutlass.  I
>have the edelbrock Performer manifold on there and I have a couple
>questions.
>
>Should I put any sealer on the gaskets?  The instructions say yes, but
>two different mechanics tell me no, and they say just to put in at the
>end of the seals.
>
>Also, the torque sequence in my manual says to start with the outside
>bolts and work in.  But the two mechanics tell me to start with the
>inside bolts and then work out.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Erik Badzinski
>
>
I have changed intake gaskets many times and I have always put sealer just
around the water passages and at the end of the seals.  Also I'd go with
the mechanics suggestions, work from the inside out when torqueing your
bolts.  The order is more crucial with an aluminum intake but either way as
long as you sequence from the inside out you should be fine.

Jim

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 04:30:24 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Are these SSIIIs something special?

- ---Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca> wrote:
<SNIP>I suppose you could go for a set of SSIV polycasts if you could
find them... offered on senior cars up to '76 I'd guess, 5" pattern
therefore, nice-looking wheel too!

!!!!!!!!
Funny you should mention that. My '72 88 has the SSIVs......I think
I'll bolt them on the '65 88 and see how they look! I would like to
have a second set but.......hard to find!

===
John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland
See the worlds worst web site  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

65 Delta 88 2dr    70 Cutlass S 2dr       72 Cutlass conv
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31       72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr   70 442 W30 conv        72 442 W30 conv
70 Cutlass S 2dr   71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 07:56:31 EST
From: OLDS44272 <OLDS44272@aol.com>
Subject: Re: License Plate ideas...

 some plate ideas i have troed get but are already taken in ohio   2QIX4U  (to
quick for you) and UR2SLO ( you are too slow)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Dec 97 21:18:55 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: License Plate ideas...

What are some of the cool Olds/Car related personalized plates...

     Scott,

     We did this here about a year (?) ago, but with the new blood on the
     list, it's probably time to do it again.

     Currently on my 70 (in Virginia):   W THIRTY

     (OK, not real original.)


     Got for my tripower 66 442 convert when I lived in SoCal (still have
     the plates):    3X2 BBL

     (I was amazed at the number of people who didn't understand it - and
     I'm talking about car people!)

     Here's an interesting bit of trivia:  the California DMV would not let
     me get 69 HURST for my H/O.  Apparently the "69" violated their
     community standards review.  They wouldn't even let me get "1969" for
     a 1969 model year car!  "69", "1969", "6T9", etc were all verboten.  I
     _did_, however, see "1000101" on a Porsche 928 in SoCal, apparently
     owned by a computer geek.

     The Commonwealth of Virginia, on the other hand, has no problem with
     "69" on license plates.  Either they have more common sense (NAH!), or
     don't know what other meanings it has.

     Best license plate I ever saw was in one of Car and Driver's Ten Best
     issues.  It was on a Mercedes SL roadster with a blonde leaning
     against the car.  The plate?

                        WAS HIS

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Dec 97 21:22:03 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: Withdrawal symptoms

And another thing:  Watch what you say about Atari!  Atari is the
Quad 4 of computers!  Take that however you like!  ;-)

     And they're off....  ;-)
     (Where's Mike (two Es, no S) Frederick when you need him?)

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Dec 97 21:49:14 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Transmission question

     Had an interesting failure in the TH-400 in my (mumble, mumble)
     (averts eyes) er, Ch*vy truck today.  (token Olds content:  this truck
     will get a 455, hopefully this spring.)

     I'd been losing transmission fluid at an astonishing rate over the
     last few weeks, but none of it was showing up on the ground.  It _did_
     appear that the engine was smoking more than normal, so I assumed
     (correctly) that the vacuum modulator went south.  This was confirmed
     when I pulled the vac tube off the modulator tonight and a stream of
     trans fluid ensued (I actually planned ahead and put the drain pan
     under the truck _before_ pulling the tube off!).

     My question (Steve Ochs, are you listening?) concerns the fact that
     for the vacuum modulator to leak fluid, the diaphragm must rupture.
     That, of course, tends to hamper it's ability to modulate with vacuum,
     but the transmission still shifted fine!  I contrast this to the time
     when the vacuum tube got knocked off the modulator during an off-road
     expedition, resulting in a trans that would only upshift at extremely
     high speeds.  How can the modulator still modulate with a ruptured
     diaphragm?  Is the oil somehow sealing the breach sufficiently to
     allow it to function?

     I should point out here that the failed modulator in question was not
     the large GM-style unit but one of the much smaller aftermarket units
     (the trans had been rebuilt about 9 years ago).  Do these small
     modulators use a piston instead of a vac diaphragm?  If so, is the
     failure mode one of wear over time causing "blowby" past the sealing
     mechanism on this piston, but still allowing sufficient vacuum
     modulation?

     An interesting aside:  the replacement modulator - also a "mini" unit,
     from Borg Warner, is adjustable!  Cool!  I didn't even ask for an
     adjustable unit.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Dec 97 20:58:10 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: How do I drop the gastank

I just removed the bumper off of my 70 rallye 350 and thought that I would
drop the gastank next. How do I do it? What kind of things do I have to
disconnect? How do I get the gastank off of the filler tube? Are there any
special preperations that I have to use?

     Jim,

     This is a relatively easy thing to do, assuming the fasteners aren't
     rusted.

     1)  Be sure the tank is empty!  This sounds obvious, but is easy to
     overlook.  Gasoline is heavy!

     2)  Disconnect the rubber hoses going to the tank.  You'll need to
     jack the car up and crawl underneath.  If I remember correctly there
     are fill and vent lines - I don't think the Rallye has fuel return,
     but if it does there will be another.  These will be short rubber
     hoses connecting the frame-mounted hardline to the metal lines coming
     out of the tank and sending unit.  The rubber lines are held in place
     with spring clamps which are a pain in the *ss to get off.  Since the
     rubber is likely old and deteriorating anyway, you may consider just
     cutting the rubber hoses and replacing them later.

     3)  Disconnect the fuel gauge and ground wires.  The fuel gauge wire
     is brown (I think) and has an in-line connector somewhere near the
     tank.  Just follow the wire.  The ground wire is black and ends in a
     terminal lug which is attached to the floor pan with a sheet metal
     screw.

     4)  After wiping the dirt, rust, and accumulated crud from your eyes
     after the last two steps, spray the two gas tank strap bolts liberally
     with WD-40 or your penetrating oil of choice.  These are the two bolts
     just behind (er, actually, in _front_ of) the rear bumper area which
     are retaining the two straps which actually hold the gas tank.  If you
     are lucky or live in a southern climate, these will not be too badly
     rusted and will come off.  If you are like the rest of us, you will
     round the nuts, cause the bolts to spin in their retaining holes, etc.
     Expect more cussing and rust in the face.

     5)  As you loosen the second strap bolt, the tank will start to move.
     I usually lay under the car with my feet towards the front of the car
     and raise my knees to brace the tank as I remove the nuts.  At this
     point, a sacrificial helper could also be wedged under the tank.  Note
     that the gas tank filler tube is welded integrally to the tank and
     will come out with it.

     6)  Once both straps are free, the tank should be able to be lowered
     to the ground.  Should you wish to actually remove the straps from the
     body, the forward end of each strap loops around a fitting welded to
     the bottom of the trunk floor and is retained with a screw.  Remove
     the screw and the straps will come off.

     Hope this helps.

     Oh, I almost forgot.  Be sure to look for the build sheet on top of
     the gas tank, or between the tank and the asphalt sound deadener sheet
     which usually lays on top of it.  No guarantees, but I found one there
     on a 71 Cutlass.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 08:06:27 +0000
From: "James E. Brady III" <James.E.Brady.1@gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Cork Vs. Rubber ?

At 01:55 AM 12/14/97 EST, you wrote:
>dang, i have edelbrock aluminum valve covers on my 350, and i used "the right
>stuff" gasket maker on them.  one is leaking a little at 5000 miles.  and
dont
>ask where i got the covers at, they are about 20 years old.
>
>
Have you tried the thick 1/4 inch Mr. Gasket valve cover gaskets with those
valve covers?  They are awesome!  No sealer and you can torque on the bolts
a little because the flange is not likely to bend.  Good luck.

Jim

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 08:59:52 EST
From: NotDads442 <NotDads442@aol.com>
Subject: Quad 4 Ignition, PCV and Foaming Oil

<<The Quad 4 has direct ignition - i.e. the coils are mounted directly to the
plugs with no wires.  One problem if I recall is that the plastic cover
that the coils are mounted in (the one that says "Quad 4") typically cracks
after many miles causing misfires.
Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant>>

Not quite true:  The cover on my car is aluminum not plastic, perhaps the
newer 2.4l engines are though.  It is the plastic/rubber piece that the coils
mount to that breaks down thus causing the shorts between coils and mis-firing
not the cover itself.

Now regarding the PCV system on the Quad 4.  No it doesn't have a PCV valve.
It does have an oil seperator.  If I remember right, I haven't looked at my
engine in several months, but I think there is a piece of vacuum hoes, approx
.5 inch I.D. that runs from the oil seperator to the intake manifold.  If it
doesn't run there, it runs to the plastic piece that runs from the air box to
the intake manifold.  So I believe that it does vent to the intake.  It just
doesn't have a PCV valve that opens and closes.

In regards to the foam in the oil.  I have seen this happen with my car after
short trips, 5-6 miles in town, as stated by someone earlier.  Trips where the
car can actually get good and warmed up I don't see it.  Of course seeing this
in the oil my be because my car sits most of the time.  That's why when I do
drive it I try and drive it for at least 45 minutes or so to make sure it's
good and warmed up.  I asked a GM tech and was told the same thing about the
foaming oil, in regards to the condensation on short trips.  I use only Mobil
1 perhaps this is a trait of synthetic oils???  I don't know.

Cecil
1991 W41
OCAª 29604

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 09:01:03 -0800
From: Bill Gochenour <3STICKS@stjohns.edu>
Subject: Re: License Plate ideas...

Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com wrote:
>
> O.K., here's a question to the list members...
> What are some of the cool Olds/Car related personalized plates, I've got a
> couple of good ones for my 68 droptop, but I'd love some other ideas
>
> Considering:
> for the Speed Racer fan I am...Racer X...
>
> Come on...be creative!
>
> Scott Wheeler
> 68 442 Conv
> Dallas

- --------------

How about the plate I've got on my 1983 Hurst/Olds...."3 STICKS"

Hey Speed Racer! Are you still able to get it on TV by you? Here in New
York it's still running on cable.
- --

Bill !

1986 442 "The Perfect 10"                     _           _       ___
     Mobile Electronics Show Car            /  |        /  |    /  _  \
1983 Hurst/Olds 15th Anniversary Edition  /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
     Oldsmobile 100th Centennial ª 2218 /    | |_   /  / | |_      /  /
1993 Oldsmobile Bravada 4x4       |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z-34     |_|         |_|   |_______|
1997 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Z-34


* * * * * * * * *
* COMMING  SOON * --------> www.3STICKS.com
* * * * * * * * *

http://area51.stjohns.edu/~toychest     (updated 11/28/97)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 09:25:29 -0500
From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Subject: Buy these

Ads passed on to me by my brother in San Diego...neither of us has any stake
in these, standard disclaimers apply.

>
>Probably already saw these, but they're still interesting.
>
>
>Date Posted 12/15/1997 - motor for sale 1969 455 all parts from Mondello in
>calif. over 6500.00 inversted, never run mondello ported and pollished
>heads,arias pistons 11.5+ to many others to list. sacrfiice at 3500.00 live
>in las vegas. hotrod@anv.net las vegas nev.
>
>Date Posted 11/18/1997 - 66 olds tripower,with carbs, aftermarket fuel
>line,aircleaners,make an offer aguy4rumli@aol.com newyork
>
>
>


Mike Evans
Richland, MI
evans1@net-link.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 09:09:44 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Re: The one that got away

Steven,

I haven't even gotten a chance to talk to her, I'm sure she has had it
since day 1! Occasionally I see it at the local Goodyear shop for its
regular checkups...I bet the mechanics are just dying to get their paws on
it!

Pretty car!

Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas




steven@purplemonkey.com on 12/15/97 08:45:15 PM

Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

To:   oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
cc:    (bcc: Scott Wheeler/PrePress/PBI)
Subject:  Re: The one that got away




My dad had a 71 lime green Cutlass S with buckets and sport wheel.  What
a blast, I drove it in highschool.  If the lady wants to sell it let me
know.  Or better yet tell her I will buy it.
Steven
70 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 10:08:55 -0500
From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Subject: Garage Heating?

Hi All

I am looking for recommendations for heating a 22X25' garage. The heater
that was installed in the garage when I bought the place went on the fritz,
and I'm looking to replace it. Although, after reading Greg's post about
looking forward to a 30 degree day to do radiator work, it seems like folly
to heat a Virginia garage. But, I'm gonna do it anyway. So, what I'm
thinking is a propane based torpedo style heater with electronic ignition
and a thermostat. I'm looking at propane because the potential vapors from
a liquid fuel like kerosene make me nervous, and I've used several electric
space heaters with disappointing results. I am particularly interested in
recommendations on what BTU range it would take to raise the temp. in the
garage 20-30 degrees over a period of several hours.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.

TIA
Ray
Alexandria, VA
'70 442 Conv.
'70 Cutlass Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 10:13:26 -0500
From: AEROTECH <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Quad 4 head gaskets (long)

At 07:59 PM 12/14/97 -0500, you wrote:
>AEROTECH wrote:
>>
>> >were sitting pretty at 125,000 on the car?  If so, how'd you put 140,000
>> >on the motor (saying you changed the head gasket at the factory), and
>> >only 125000 on the car?  I am confused now.
>>
>> no jerry you have me confused with the other Q4 guy Mike Coccagna(sp)
>> he has 126K mi on his car. mine is at 200K miles and i just recently
>> changed the motor to the HO Q4. so i was speaking of my old engine.
>
>In which case it was the low end Q4?  As opposed to the high end Q4 that
>the gasket question pertained to?  Wouldn't that be like the mid 80's V8
>guys talking about hte head gaskets on their 307 "9" motors, and me
>saying the head gaskets on my 307 "Y" motor were changed a while back?
>Or me talking about the Cam in my "Y" motor (Y couldn't I get a 9 and be
>lucky) and comparing it to the 9 motor Cam?  To me this looks like
>apples and oranges...
>
>This also brings up another question...  At exactly what mileage did you
>throw the HO Q4 in your ride?  With 200k on it, it poses strange
>questions...  If you changed the gasket 140k ago, that would make it at
>60K, and the new motor at 200k, this seems like it would be close to the
>time span we were talking aboutfor the gaskets.  If you changed the
>gasket at 140, it's still close to the time span were we talking,
>elightenment please... <G>
>

Let me get you the scoop Jerry didn't think yo would be this interested in
teh first place. my original LO Q4 is mainy what i speak of when referring
to engines i have exper with. i swapped to the HO just 2 0r 3 weeks ago. i
account for no mileage of the HO in my 200K figure. that's all for the LO
88 Q4 engine. the HO motor had 60K on it when i put it in. i only put maybe
1200mi on it since i put it in? so the summary is.

as of today

Car milage  202K mi
original engine 200K mi
new engine 61K

hope this straightens this out.

AEROTECH

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 10:29:06 -0500
From: AEROTECH <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Quad 4 with no PCV

>
>You must mean PCV...the EGR system has nothing to do with the crankcase
>vapours.

The EGR takes the unburnt gas vapors from the crankcase and recircualtes
them through the engine. this is why the Q4 has no PCV and EGR. they work
together.

AEROTECH
aka Jeff Verkleeren

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 10:33:47 EST
From: DR OLDS350 <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: Re: License Plate ideas...

My cars have RALY350 and  WTHRTY1

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 08:42:51 -0700
From: Gary Manton <sasgmm@unx.sas.com>
Subject: gasket info....

With all this talk about gaskets, I will be replacing all of my gaskets on
my 394 engine, and the overall consensus is that Mr. Gasket is pretty good.
Where can I find them, and do the have them for my engine?  If they are not
available, what else do you recommend?

Thanks,

G
          \\|//
          (o o)
~~~~~~oOOo~(_)~oOOo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Gary M. MantonSAS Institute
Business Solutions DivisionPhoenix, AZ  85012
(602) 265-1616 ext. 230 - voice        (602) 265-8585 - fax
(888) 982-4079 - Pager

"In business as in life, your chances of being run over are doubled
if you stay in the middle of the road"
~~~~~~oooo~~~~~oooo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 07:56:13 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Garage Heating?

- ---Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com> wrote:
Hi All
I am looking for recommendations for heating a 22X25' garage

!!!!!!!!
Here here! I need the same info! My long awaited 30x40 garage is
finally nearing closed-in status. I'll be happy just to get in from
the cold/rain/etc. I do have a 22,000 BTU kerosene heater.......we'll
see how it works out. A buddy has a kerosene fueled torpedo heater (we
call it the jet engine heater) and it works OK in his 20x26 garage.
For about $200 it seems like a good option. It's seems easier to go to
the gas station and get another 5 gals of kerosene VS getting a
propane tank refilled.

===
John Pajak (closed in soon!)         JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
(60 miles south of DC)

65 Delta 88 2dr    70 Cutlass S 2dr       72 Cutlass conv
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31       72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr   70 442 W30 conv        72 442 W30 conv
70 Cutlass S 2dr   71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 08:00:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Malcolm Gillespie <droptop_69@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Old Racer's Trick

- ---Two72W30S <Two72W30S@aol.com> wrote:
<snip>
> I use the Copper Rtv around the water ports and in all four corners
of the
> intake.
> I tork it to specs and add 5lbs more.  No leaks in three years.  I
have also
> done this to many of my friends and brothers engines over the years.
 Using
> cast and alum intakes of sizes and such.
>
> Just my opinion.

Installed a Performer RPM with basically this method last weekend. It
seems fine, but all of these dire warnings posted have gotten me
paranoid.
How do I tell if it's leaking, (a little/alot?, coolant/compression?)?
Once the car warms up there is no white smoke, but when I ran it in
the driveway to get it warm enough to set the carb and re-check the
torque, it left two small puddles of clear water on the ground below
the trumpets. It definitely seems to be just plain water. It has no
smell, but I'm not about to taste it.
Is this just normal condensation?


==
Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass convertible
DropTop_69@yahoo.com (temporary e-mail)
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 10:07:24 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Re: Rad Cap w/ An Attitude...

God Dave

Hope you get better!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 08:05:54 -0800 (PST)
From: Malcolm Gillespie <droptop_69@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: power tour /top speed limiters

- ---Igor <todorovb@cadvision.com> wrote:
>
> I have also experienced this on my '95 Intrepid.  It just kicks you
back
> into the seat at aprox. 115mph.

Yeah, and with the Intrepid, it's definitely tire related. I remember
when I got my 93, I had to order it with the performance handling
package to get the higher rated tires. That brought the 3.5l top speed
up to 125.


==
Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass convertible
DropTop_69@yahoo.com (temporary e-mail)
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 09:14:35 -0700
From: "Redinger, Steve" <sredinger@psoexc01.tsc.bcs.lucent.com>
Subject: Engine Emission Parts

I am looking for  emissions controls components for 1883 or later
231 V6.   This includes a total of about 20 parts.  Sensors, computer
ECKM, Smog pump
etc and wiring.    Happy Driving!

srrco@hotmail.com

Denver COLORADO

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 10:19:42 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Go Speed Racer!

Bill,

I have a 4 year old daughter & a 15 month old daughter so needless to say
our household television schedule revolves around 2 channels...Nickelodeon
& The Cartoon Network!

The latter shows Speed Racer at 10:30 cst weeknights...OOOHHH Chim Chim!!!!

My 4 year old thinks Speed Racer is really cool...is it too early for her
to have a crush? She always says I'm Trixie!

Happy Viewing!

Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 10:15:10 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@leadbelt.com
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil or Not Synthetic?

Tom Lentz wrote:
>
<snipped>  I think
>it's 10 times more important to just change your oil regularly and
>frequently (every 3k or 3-4 months) than it is what type and brand of
>oil you use.


I am very much in agreement with the statement above. Just last night, had
the  dubious pleasure of removing an oil pan from a 125,000 mile GM truck.
truck has had regular oil changes  <3000 mi or fewer,Valvoline 10W30 FWIW>
since birth. Looking up into the engine, couldn't help be impressed with how
clean everything was. Virtually zero sludge/gunk except for a miniscule
amount in the lowest part of the pan.

While I like the idea of synthetic oil and have used it from time to time in
various vehicles, I don't like the price nor its tendency to find leaks
better than petroleum-based. But then opinions are like anal
orifices....everybody's got one (at least)...

.02

roger hitson


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 10:20:47 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: A little humor and off the wall question.

Tim,

That must make you one of the sanest of the bunch.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible


>Jus' see muh .sig....
>
>
>
>Tim (To Keep Sane Around here, Ya Hafta Do Crazy Things!) Churchill
>-------------
>'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
>'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
>'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 10:27:55 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Bill the "Perfect 10 "car guy!

Hey Bill,

a week or so ago I asked a mobile electronics question...did you get to see
it?

Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas

I have a Kenwood Hi-power AM/FM Cassette/CD Changer Controller, 20W x 2
driving the Stillwater Designs 4" 2-way door speakers for the dash and 40W
X 2 driving the nice 6x9 Sony 3-ways for the back, my question is, where
can I install the speakers without molesting the interior...the only place
I can think of putting them is in the armrest panels below the pump housing
panels on either side of the backseat, this would involve cutting and I
have a rare interior color...Garnet...and would rather not. Any thoughts?

I plan to possibly add a sub woofer mounted against the backseat hidden in
the well to help with the lost bass to the open air!

I want to keep as much as I can invisible!

Lemmeknow!

Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 11:27:53 +0500
From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Subject: Re: License Plate ideas...

>Trevor Lee wrote:
>>         Here's one I somehow thought up one day - it doesn't make ANY sense
>> unless you think what it would look like in a rear view mirror:
>>
>>         RVO VUM
>>
>>         It works out great because only one letter is backwards in a
rear-view
>> mirror.
>
>
>      T1 3VOM

How 'bout this.

AVO VUM

Probably look best on a set of MA plates. :-)

I think an apropriate plate for here in SW Viginia I would be.

AWDMOBL

The proper pronunciation is Aaawdmobeel as said by the local parts store
guys. :)


Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais


------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª1013
*********************************
