To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1069


oldsmobile-digest      Friday, January 23 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1069



Re: '66 Cutlass Convertible gas tank
Re: 66 Cutlass convertible
Re: BB combustion chambers
Re: Crankscrapers
Re: Re[2]: Olds 330 info
My 1983 Olds Regency Hit 200,000 Miles
Re: '66 Cutlass Convertible gas tank
Re: Power vrs. Vacuum
Miss(E)communications
Re:  Trunk Floors
1950 Olds 88 Fastback
Re: Valve covers and Tach
Re: OCA Nationals
Re: FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro
questions
RE: Axle Ratio
Re: 1966 Cutlass
Re: OCA Nationals
Re: My 1983 Olds Regency Hit 200,000 Miles
Gas tank tube
Re: 506 Olds Engine Possibility?
re  carb
Rally Gauges
Re: Crankscrapers
Another overheating question
Re: Engine Possibility?
My 200-4R info wanted...
Re: Another overheating question
Re: 506 Olds Engine Possibility?
Re: Valve covers and Tach
Re: Sending Unit/Bumper Bolts
Re: Crankscrapers
Re: Crankscrapers
Re: Power vrs. Vacuum
200,000 Miles
Re: GAS TANK sending unit question
Re: Another overheating question
Re: Sending Unit/Bumper Bolts
Re: Minor Details on 70 442
Lockup/Overheat Question
Re: OCA Nationals
RE: Axle Ratio
Re: FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro
Re: Lockup/Overheat Question
Re: quad 4 back again
Re: Non-remote mirrors (the fix)
RE: Non-remote mirrors (the fix)
[Fwd: [Fwd: E-mail phone charge]]
Re: Axle Ratio
cc:Mail Link to SMTP Undeliverable Message
Re: Axle Ratio
TH-200R4 ?'s
Re: Lockup/Overheat Question
Re: U.S. Auto Body
RE: Axle Ratio
Re: 442 Key Blank

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 19:18:06 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: '66 Cutlass Convertible gas tank

Eric & Rosi & Jonathon wrote:
>
> Cold air in some cases does give you more power.

<Snip>

> Unfortunately, I don't have a clue if this is really true...
> (Ski-Doo engines have WAY more power at -30 Celcius than -5 Celcius I
> know)

> > Just want to let ya all know the pocket rocket is running extremely well in
> > this cold weather, must add 10 or 15 horse to her from the cold air. is it
> > right that cold air means horsepower?

After I stuck the dryer venting in the car from the front bumper to the
air cleaner snorkle, I noticed a difference in performance...  0-60Mph
times are a little faster, but not overly noticeable. 35-60WOT is
greatly improved...  And a drop to WOT from 25 feels REAL firm against
the tranny, no lag, no slow increase to WOT, the pedal goes down, the
front end goes up.  Passing is easier with the system that it was
without...  I also saw a little easing on MPG, though slight...  I will
let you know if it works in March when the track opens back up...  I did
11.5's on the 1/8 running a stock 87 Cutlass 307, now I've tuned it, and
added the "ram air".
- --
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
- - Here we go Steelers!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 19:12:38 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Re: 66 Cutlass convertible

Dan, I think it's a great car.  With the 320 hp 330, it's also quite quick.
 Just make sure the frame is solid.  Parts availability is decent.

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: Daniel S and Michelle Carlson <carlson@paulbunyan.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 66 Cutlass convertible
> Date: Tuesday, January 20, 1998 11:17 PM
>
> I do not see much written about this car.  How popular was it, or what's
> the word on it?  Any problems I should be aware of?
>
> Dan

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 19:24:22 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: BB combustion chambers

Matt,

 Stay home and eat.  Why stay home and eat when there are
plenty of 5.0's to munch on all night long.

 Do you know a guy named Gary Blankenburger by chance. He also
lives in Milan and has a 66 442 just got done restoring.  Met him thru a
buddy that also lived in Milan until 1.5 years ago. May have seen his car
around your area ...  was a black 72 with gold stripes
One of the guys that used to run around with us.  He ran at Milan
on more that one occasion.

P.S. -- now that Detroit is closed I'm sure we'll be making the trek out
to Milan for a few outings with the Street Rockets Club.

Keep me posted this summer when your planning on going to the track
and if it works out maybe we can assemble the rockets....
Besides if I break it'd be nice to know someone in the area that could assist

Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 18:02:21 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Crankscrapers

> > what do you need a crankscraper for anyways?  if the engine is spinning the
> > oil will get flung off the crank anyways.....don't you think so?
>
> True, not needed for street.  BUT, at VERY HIGH RPM, such as in race
> type situations, the oil is spinning with the crank at very high rpm
> also.

Hmm.  Perhaps that's why the Toro's came with stock windage tray/crank
scrapers?????    :)


 Some detail is needed her
               Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
        Sidney Montana

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 19:44:48 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Olds 330 info

I agree with Joe.  I had a '65 442 that a TH350 bolted right up to the
original 400.  I modified a Holley cable bracket for the kick-down.

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: padavano.joe <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re[2]: Olds 330 info
> Date: Wednesday, January 21, 1998 8:03 PM
>
>
> ..Anybody have any experience with the Jetaway?
>
>      It makes a good door stop.
>
> Thats what I am stuck with.  Does anyone know for sure if a stall
converter
> for the th350 &400 will fit this,  My gut at the shop says yes but he's
> only 99%.  Anyone actually try it?
>
>
>      I don't know about the converter, but a TH350 will almost fall into
>      place instead of the Junkaway.  From a length and mount standpoint
>      it's a bolt-in.  The original driveshaft will also work, but I'm not

>      completely sure about the front yolk (you may need to swap it).  The

>      only other issue is the need to fabricate an attachment for the
>      kickdown cable (TH350 uses a cable kickdown instead of the electric
>      kickdown switch used on the Jetaway and TH400).  In the 69-up cars,
>      this cable passes through a square hole in the firewall (the cable
has
>      a molded-in fitting which snaps into this hole) and is attached to
the
>      gas pedal in a special welded-on tab.  Since you have a 330, I
assume
>      you have a 64-67 car, which will require some sort of fabrication.
>
>      Joe Padavano
>      padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>      66 442
>      68 W-30
>      69 H/O
>      70 W-30
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 20:02:29 -0800
From: Larry Polesnak 62 Starfire <bullets@sgi.net>
Subject: My 1983 Olds Regency Hit 200,000 Miles

Hi everyone,well my car hit 200,000 miles today..The car still rides
nice.. I change the oil every 4,000 miles.. I think this 307 is going to
run forever..Are there alot of list members cars over 200,000 miles
please let me know.. Larry Polesnak
   1    9    6    2    S    T    A    R    F    I    R     E
             My Classic Car "Grand Champion"
- --
                /\__________________/\_________________/\
           /\__/Amateur Radio Station  WB3KJG  ARES,RACES\__/\
      /\__/Skywarn/ 1O1Oª 459OO /BreezeShooters Number 87-279 \__/\
     / BreezeShooters web site   http://www.users.sgi.net/~wolfie/ \
    / 1962 STARFIRE"http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/downs/6250/" \
   -------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 20:20:12 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: '66 Cutlass Convertible gas tank

> Cold air in some cases does give you more power.
>
> This I have assumed is true because cold air is denser, so:

On an internal combustion engine, assuming everything else stays equal,
it should ALWAYS result in more output power.  You are correct that cold
air is denser.  Hence, more Oxygen molecules are in the same volume of
air.  This allows more oxygen in the cylinders per given volume due to
the lower temperature intake charge.  This in turn, will have an even
GREATER oxidation effect on the fuel burn, thus more energy is released
from the fuel in the form of heat, and this provides more cylinder
pressure per ignition event.  Effectively, you just "increased" your
compression ratio/cylinder efficiency for free and no wrenching/milling
involved.  Therefore more power.  In theory, pumping pure Oxygen to the
engine would seem like a tremendous advantage.  In reality, it spells
trouble.  Kids, don't try this at home or it WILL melt parts!!!

AND as a bonus, simplifying greatly, the greater cylinder efficiency of
the dense air allows less throttle (not super noticable) for the same
MPH (power output) than without the cold air.  Therefore, over a long
haul, you should see a slight increase in gas mileage, depending on
intake temps.

The whole cold air effect is like a mini-version of turbocharge action
with an intercooler.  Only the turbos do it on a much greater scale
since they rely on compression of volume.

Another confusing description?

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 98 20:37:02 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: Power vrs. Vacuum

At 09:10 1/22/98 -0500, you wrote:
>I have had many people asked me lately if 69 cutlass has power trunk or if
>it has vacuum, I have read most of my books on this and have not been able
>to determine the answer.
>So I would like assistance form the list on this.  Do any of you who have a
>69 cutlass have power trunk or vacuum trunk?
>If it is power what shape is the lock and solenoid mechanism?
>If you have vacuum can you describe your trunk opening button or switch?
>

      According to the '69 Chassis Service Manual it is a vacuum trunk
release.  The vacuum switch is mounted on the dash between the radio and the
glove box with an escutcheon and nut and looks to be a push button type. The
switch body has two vacuum ports. Vacuum is supplied by a canister in the
engine compartment and is controlled by the switch to then supply it to the
trunk lock mechanism. The latch would then be unlocked via a diaphragm
connected to the latch arm.

     Glenn
     '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 21:17:40 EST
From: KarlAune <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Miss(E)communications

Hey all!

Recently I wrote;

- -> Firstly, I want to say that my previous inquiries were structured towards
 learning how to find out whether those whose vehicles should have come from
 the factory with the variable vane torque converter might have been relieved
 of same by unscrupulous mechanics. I say this fully mindful of those who have
 shared thier experiences with disappointing machine shops.

And a certain Wrencher commented on another Emissive;

- -> If you have the positive side of the coil going to the distributor you 
have
it
 hooked up wrong.
 maybe you just explained it wrong?

 Wrencher43@aol.com
 Mike M

Well then, it certainly seems like I am getting dyslexic in my young age. As
my friends D. Brown, G.Pruett, C. Pierce as well as B. Smith, the Ludlams and
Sparky (if they are reading this) may have guessed, the above grammatical
catastrophes are the result of too much lubrication. (Definately not
dielectric grease!)

Although on re-reading it the first paragraph is correct, if somewhat obscure.
My point was that some trannys that get sick might have been operated on and
got better, but that the surgeon may have swapped out a healthy organ (V.V.
torque converter) in the process.

As for routing wires for the super coil, yes, I know very well that the
current flows from the negative terminal. Having actually started it earlier
that day (now an unremembered dream once more!) I was substantially proud of
myself for my belated diagnostic and prompt repair. My apologies to anyone who
read my Eletter and subsequently rewired their coils for maximum
performance.....

As for Soylent, I have been waiting on an opportunity to pull the starter, but
it has been snowing the past two days. When I tried my floor jack I
immediately gave up when I saw that the wheels opposite the jack pad could be
slid fairly easily under load. Oh, well.


Later.
KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 21:08:49 EST
From: Oldsparts <Oldsparts@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  Trunk Floors

The good Doctor was asking how many types of trunk floors are available.
First things first:  Trunk floor work can be a bear of a job.  We have
used/sold at least four differnt types of trunk floor from at least 5 mfgrs.
Some of the so called "one piece full floors"  dont even go from side to side.
Those that do require a quarter to be removed when they are installed as they
will not fit through the decklid opening.  For the best fit/ease of
installation/results/value I would recommend the 3 piece jobs.  In most cases
you will also wind up replacing the fuel tank and body mount braces, so
consider buying a 7 piece kit.  Beware the discounters selling the 3 piece (or
7 Piece kit) made by Alexander Earley.  He's a nice guy but his floors fit
like c**p.  We sell th one made by Classic Reproductions in Ohio and find it
to be the best value in term of price, fit and ease of installation.  Hope
this helps.

Sincerely For Oldsmobiles,
Steve Kenny
Brothers Automotive Products
www.oldsparts.com
800-442-PART

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 18:33:49 -0800
From: "Stan A. Shayer" <sshayer@sprynet.com>
Subject: 1950 Olds 88 Fastback

I am looking for the following part:
Passenger door interior upholstery chrome strip.  Would appreciate
hearing from anyone who knows where I can obtain the chrome strip.
Thanks!
sshayer@sprynet.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 22:05:50 EST
From: TERMO1L <TERMO1L@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Valve covers and Tach

What info do you have on a 66 330?  Anything worth while?  Thats what I have
and just had rebuilt any tips or tricks would be great.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 22:07:43 EST
From: TERMO1L <TERMO1L@aol.com>
Subject: Re: OCA Nationals

What are the dates of the olds nat.?  What goes on there?  How do you
register?  I am very interested.  A speedy reply would be great.  It may not
be too late to take vac for that time.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 22:17:06 -0500
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro

At 12:30 PM 1/20/98 -0800, you wrote:
Coy

        Thanks for the info. I've had a couple customers ask about them.

Thanks,
Jim

>Hello there.
>This is Coy, it will be about 10 days before our first set of vinyl stripes
>will be ready as we are currently retooling.
>I will send you a set and some other information when they are ready.
>Also if you are interested in putting a link on our web page let me know.
>Look forward to working with you.
>Thanks
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 22:19:14 EST
From: DR OLDS350 <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: questions

i have questions
how can i tell if i have a 4 core radiator?i took the radiator out of my
rallye.
my automatic trans does not have a cover over the fly wheel  should it?
my am radio has the blue wire for a rear speaker  but   there is no rear
speaker on the radio bezel  the nob just turns and turns  can i get a switch
from somewhere or was this a factory option on the radio? i removed my gas
tank  but i cant get the sending unit out, how the heck do you get that lock
ring off?on bottom of the rear window there are 3 small black trim pieces,  2
smand 1 long piece,  i got the 2 small pieces off but i cant get the long
piece to move   why?
    as usual  you folks have been  a great help to me in my resto project.
hope you can help here too,
                                                thanks  jim

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 21:25:03 -0600
From: "Tracy H. Shires" <twodogs@ou.edu>
Subject: RE: Axle Ratio

At 05:08 PM 1/22/98 -0500, you wrote:

>So does this mean that GM produced different sized 10 and 12 bolt

>differentials?  O.K. I have 2.73 gears in a 10-bolt. If I want to get to

>3.73 gears, which ones do I order, the 3 series or 4 series gears? My

>'72 chassis manual does not mentioned anything about differential sizes.

>I would assume that all the O-type differentials were standard.

>

>

>Fernando Proietto

>A/Manager

>Systems Analyst - Informatics Division

>Environment Canada

>Atmospheric Environment Branch - Ontario Region

>4905 Dufferin St.

>Downsview, Ontario

>M3H 5T4

>


I did this conversion last summer in my 81. It has the 7.5 inch pinion gear. 
I'm
not sure what the pinion size was for 72. Maybe someone here can clarify that.
Richmond makes a set of gears for the 7.5 in pinioned small carrier I have.
Summit sells em for a little under 200 bucks.





I also put a powertrax unit in at the same time. The labor for having the
dealership put them in cost be $150. Boy I love the combo! If you don't already
have a 200r4 I'd get ready to buy one. I used my th350 for about 2 weeks before
I totally went nuts driving 5000 rpm on the interstate.. Best of luck!!
Privately Email me if you would like Summit's number






T. H. Shires81 C/S/B Rckt 350

mailto:TwoDogs@ou.edu


<bold>University of Oklahoma

</bold><italic><color><param>0000,0000,ffff</param>Aerospace
Engineering

</color><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param>Mechanical Engineering

</color></italic>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 22:45:43 -0500
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@mail.cvn.net>
Subject: Re: 1966 Cutlass

Mike :

Looking for windshield chroom if good -excellent
The steering column mount bracket ... attaches
     coumn to dash

"Oldmobile" chrome that goes on trunk
Side chrome on indent right and left fender.
More if you still have parts available.

Ken Swick

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 22:48:59 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: OCA Nationals

I know this has been posted before, but when are the OCA Nationals?  I
know they are in Springfield, Illinois but can't remember when.  Ah the
memory lapses of impending old age.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 21:56:20 -0600 (CST)
From: Jeremy Lloyd Elder <jelder1@bigred.unl.edu>
Subject: Re: My 1983 Olds Regency Hit 200,000 Miles

> run forever..Are there alot of list members cars over 200,000 miles
> please let me know.. Larry Polesnak
I'm up to 199 K but the speedo/Od cable broke. Engine has about the
same on it.  I'll get their eventually.
Jeremy "Sqk 'Em Off" Elder
'82 Cutlass, 455

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 22:51:11 EST
From: EDZX6 <EDZX6@aol.com>
Subject: Gas tank tube

Just wondering,

  Can the filler tube from the gas tank on my 72 Cutlass S be replaced without
replacing the entire gas tank.  The tube is all bent out of shape at the top
and the cap just keeps on spinning around. Thanks in advance for any info that
can help  me resolve this problem.

Eddie Martin
72 Cutlass S  conv / 4spd

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 22:03:58 -0600
From: "Samuel E. Johnson, Jr" <cutlass403@ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: 506 Olds Engine Possibility?

Can you give me more information on the 403 455 build up. I would like to try
this if I may.

BIG JERMES wrote:

> In a message dated 98-01-21 22:57:05 EST, you write:
>
> << Didnt someone figure out before that a 455 Crank in a 403 block would
>  produce a 596 small block or something crazy like that?
>   >>
> heh, think that was me.  some guy around here has done a few like that.  
comes
> out to be like a 540cid small block.  lots of custom stuff, though.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 20:12:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Jack Karamanos <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: re  carb

on your 68 455 try a holley 3310  750cfm or an edelbrick 1411  750cfm


the side of my edelbrick has weber cast into it

47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 23:20:37 EST
From: Chunsa442 <Chunsa442@aol.com>
Subject: Rally Gauges

All:

I've just received a nice package from the junkyard somewhere in New York
which contains the entire rally instrument cluster (without speedometer or
idiot lights) for an 80's-something cutlass.  I've got what I need to keep
J.Y. Angel in good shape, will part with any parts needed out there for
reasonable.

Cheers!

Allen

- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -------
     Allen Eastlake
     Annandale, Virginia
          "J.Y. Angel" (1986 442)
          "Reston Valdez" (1983 Volvo GL Sedan)
- ------------------------------------
------------------------------------------
- -------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 23:17:07 EST
From: Mikey tvb <Mikeytvb@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Crankscrapers

actually it doesn't make any sense to me.  so what your saying is that it
touches the crank and therefor making friction.  now if you really think these
contrapions really work, gohead and use them.  from my experience, the best
thing to do is paint the inside of the block and oil pan.  the oil will run
down the paint faster than the bare metal.  see there are many ways to solve
problems and i just think the crankscraper doesn't work.

mikey tvb@aol.com
73 cutlass w/403

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 23:26:40 EST
From: EDZX6 <EDZX6@aol.com>
Subject: Another overheating question

  The problem is that my 72 Cutlass S starts to get hotter and hotter the
faster I go on the highway not on the city where it runs nice and cool (about
180) even while stuck in traffic.  The radiator is less than a year old,
coolant is good (level/mixture etc.), but I'm running dual electric fans.
Could this be the problem? is anybody using electric fans? or could I have
another problem? I'm running 3:23 gears and at a speed of about 75-80mph
(3500rpm) the temp starts to climb after about 10minutes. I usually slow down
before temp goes above 210 afraid that it will overheat.  What is the normal
operating temp range for a car like this? Is it running too hot or should I
let the temp rise to see how far it will go? Thanks for any info!!

Eddie
72 Cutlass S  conv / 4spd

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 12:46:00 -0800
From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Possibility?

Hi  Gang,

How about putting a 330 crank in a 403 block?  The idea would be to have a
large bore in relation to the stroke=a higher reving motor.  Wasn't that
the idea behind the 445 discussed here recently.

Erik Nowacki
San Diego
72 Vista Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 00:19:26 -0500
From: Tom Millard <oldspwr@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: My 200-4R info wanted...

I was wondering if any had a copy of the long letter I wrote on 200-4R's a
while back.  I know I sent it out to a few people personally and had posted
it on the list on several occasions.  I recently did some hard drive
cleaning a lost it by mistake.

Any help would be appreciated...

Tom Millard OLDSPWR@worldnet.att.net
79 Cutlass - Street/Strip/Show
86 442 - Summer Cruiser
79 Cutlass - Winter Bomb (soon to be for sale...)
84 Silverado 4WD (soon to be Olds powered...)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 00:27:03 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Another overheating question

EDZX6 wrote:
>
 I'm running 3:23 gears and at a speed of about 75-80mph
> (3500rpm) the temp starts to climb after about 10minutes. I usually slow down
> before temp goes above 210 afraid that it will overheat.  What is the normal
> operating temp range for a car like this? Is it running too hot or should I
> let the temp rise to see how far it will go? Thanks for any info!!

Well, it's got something to do with the airflow.  At highway speeds, an
engine should be able to run normally (not WOT, towing, etc.) without
any type of fan-assist.  Check out the fins on the rad to see if they're
restricted in some way.  If that checks out good, just do an everyday
inspection;  hoses, water pump, etc.

Fans, especially when they're not needed, are known to rob power due to
airflow restrictions.  Try removing both fans (pain in the *ss, yes) and
go for a highway drive....if the temp stays cool, you'll know that the
fan blades are impeding the air flow.

210 isn't too bad...most idiot lights are set to trigger at 256 F, and
that's according to the factory.  (And if they screw up, and have
engines heat seizing, people will be standing in the unemployment
line...).

I was a passenger in a 403 Trans Am once, and the temp needle hit 280 F
(trans hit 240 F), and it wasn't running tight at all...still got good
compression after 200,000 km.  But after that little sprint, the tranny
went VVK a few hundred miles later....

- --
S. Dave Ward  (mailto:ward@ptbo.igs.net)

'78 Delta 88 Royale (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 R.B.   (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC Sierra 4x4  (305 TBI)

(Ennismore, Ontario, CANADA)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 00:29:01 EST
From: BIG JERMES <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 506 Olds Engine Possibility?

In a message dated 98-01-22 23:40:45 EST, you write:

<< Can you give me more information on the 403 455 build up. I would like to
try this
 if I may. >>

heh, wish i knew how!!  its just a lot of hassle to do it.  id just get a
stroker kit from mondello.  it would be cheaper.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 00:31:06 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Valve covers and Tach

>>      330 and 350 are dimensionally the same (as are all small block Olds
>>      motors, including the 260, 307, and 403).
>
>Anyone read the recent Car Craft (Feb. 1998)?  Someone asked if
>they could put a 4-bbl. 330 or a 350 intake on a 260.  The ed.
>said that the 260's "heads' intake-manifold sealing surface is
>scalloped out on the bottom, so it won't seal properly to
>standard Olds small block intakes.  He suggested to put 5A 307
>heads on...but he said 80-84 442 heads...shame, shame!
>
>Did anyone know this about the 260 heads?  I thought ALL Olds
>small block stuff was interchangeable.  Well, I learned
>something.

The 260 is externally the same as the 330/350/403, but it's got those little
"girlie" ports and cylinders, so only 260 heads will work on a 260 block,
and only a 260 intake will work with the 260 heads.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 00:31:09 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Sending Unit/Bumper Bolts

>Sounds like I ought to swap sending units from my original gas tank to the
>new/old one from the 69 cutlass.  I am going to Year One so I guess I can pick
>up a new gasket, and new sending unit filter, and probably a new lock ring too
>in case the old one gets damaged.

Good plan; I was able to reuse my gasket and lock-ring, but you might
destroy it when loosening it.

>Which brings me to my next question, they 'had to' destroy the old bumper
>bolts when they took off my bumper to be straightened and rechromed (looks so
>beautiful now!!!).  Has anyone used Year One's bumper bolts - they tell me
>they are polished aluminum, I think, not chromed.

Fusick's carries the original-style bolts, which have a chrome cap, for only
$2 each (the replacement packets from the auto store cost $4.95/pair, so
it's cheaper too). I got a pair for my rear bumper, and they're
indistinguishable from the old ones.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 01:19:41 EST
From: KS7RACING <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Crankscrapers

Mike,

You hit the nail right on the head with that description. We run crank
scrapers on our race engines, with windage trays (hand-made), rear pan baffles
between the oil pump and the main cap, and a full baffle running parallel to
the bottom of the extended sump of the pan, along with the pump pickup in the
right rear corner. After we had this pan custom built by Dave Smith in Corona,
CA we've never had an oil pressure-related problem (1/2 mile asphalt oval).

Smokey Yunick did some testing years ago with an engine equipped with
plexiglass windows in several areas, being driven by a huge electric motor so
he could view various engine operations; cam motion, water pump flow, pushrod
"flex"(he said they actually flex regardless of guideplates or not), and most
importantly, oiling system basics. He said that after less than 3 minutes the
oil looks like it has water in it, but it's really just air whipped into the
oil. And it will "rope" around the crank if no control provisions are in
place. Even with that, they still aereate the oil in no time at all. That's
why the top-end racing engines (with the exception of drag racing Top
Fuel/Funny Car engines) all use an external tank to store the oil, cool it
some and de-aereate it before it returns to the engine. The famous "dry sump"
- - costly, yet effective.

Another cent-and-a-half here,
Ken Snyder

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 00:23:07 -0600 (CST)
From: Jeremy Lloyd Elder <jelder1@bigred.unl.edu>
Subject: Re: Crankscrapers

> contrapions really work, gohead and use them.  from my experience, the best
> thing to do is paint the inside of the block and oil pan.  the oil will run

Painting the inside of the block and oil pan would not do anything
about the objective problem of oil supply.  You still have a bunch of
oil on the crank and counterweights that can't be used by the rest of
the engine.  From what I've heard most Oldses don't have an outstanding
reputation for an oiling system (Tornados are better) and that is the
problem you're trying to minimize.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 02:05:52 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Power vrs. Vacuum

I would like to thank those who offered information on this subject I
appreciate the assistance

Robert Schinkel

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 20:47:37 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: 200,000 Miles

I'm at 230,000 in the VC - original 350 with one cylinder having what
appears to be chronic problems with the valve guides (i.e. they're shot).
I could probably re-repair that one cylinder and get a lot more miles, but
I'm opting to build the '67 400 CID out of a 442 I picked up to perk her up
a little.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://server.exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://server.exo.com/~jht/olds/oldsbbs/index.cgi

Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://server.exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 23:41:39 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: GAS TANK sending unit question

>Does anyone out there know why my 442 has two lines coming out of the sending
>unit on the gas tank, and the one I pulled from a 69cutlass only has one line.
>

The two-fuel line setup (feed and return) was usually used on
air-conditioned cars, while the non-A/C cars used a single line. The return
line avoided vapor lock with the higher temps from running the A/C compressor.

>And do I need to swap sending units, or will it function properly with one
>line?

Well, your existing fuel-pump (if it's hooked up to both lines) will be
trying to return fuel to the tank through the other line, and you don't want
it spraying all over the exhaust system... :o

I'd swap in the dual-line sending unit, even if you've got a non-A/C car, as
the return line will keep the fuel coming to the motor fresh and cool (well,
cooler), and prevent vapor lock.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 01:10:59 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Another overheating question

In a message dated 98-01-23 00:10:51 EST, you write:

<< The problem is that my 72 Cutlass S starts to get hotter and hotter the
 faster I go on the highway not on the city where it runs nice and cool (about
 180) even while stuck in traffic.   >>

Look at your lower rad hose and make sure that it has the wire coil  inside
to keep hose from calapsing under high pressure (high rpm)

I have a 69 442  455 cid w/4.10 rear and I can cruise on x-way at 62 mph at
3000 and usually run about 185 deg with 160 thermostat and regular fan
with clutch hub.

Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 08:03:50 -0500
From: loris <loris@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Sending Unit/Bumper Bolts

Has anyone used Year One's bumper bolts - they tell me
> >they are polished aluminum, I think, not chromed.

I prefer not to use the capped bumper bolts.  They look so cheap.  I
replaced mine with true chromed bolts from a good local auto paint
store.  I paid $1.50 each for them and they come in different sizes.
Unless you're doing a TRUE restoration job go with the chromed ones.
Just my opinion.

- -Loris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 20:14:17 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Minor Details on 70 442

>Also, concerning the air induction unit (that which sets above the air
cleaner
>and has the vaccum door), it has the word "OLDSMOBILE" printed on it.  On
my
>70 these raised letters are painted white.  I also have one from a 72 in
which
>the letters are not painted, it is just the raised letters on the black
plastic.  Are each of these correct for their respective year model or did
the previous owner do some painting?>


Dan,

I have asked this question to many before and no one seems to know for sure.
Here's what I've determined from all that gave their opinions;

The "Oldsmobile" letters were NOT painted white from the factory, even
though some ads of the time show them white.  This was done so the name
could be seen in the ad.  Owners paint them white because "it looks better"
or they got the idea from the ads....or other owners.

The only thing that makes me wonder is why most don't have the letters
painted, and some do?  My gut feeling is that originally they were not
painted white.

Any of you "Olds Experts" out there know the answer to this one?  I'd like
to know myself.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
1995 Achieva S

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 07:45:39 -0600
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: Lockup/Overheat Question

I know this has probably been around time and time again, but I never
has seen it.  So if it has, lets not kill it again.  Email me directly
if you wish.

Some people say that if you disable the lockup converter, your
transmission will overheat.

I tend not to agree, but I would like to be edjamacated.

1.  From the dawn of the automatic with a torque converter till the
early 80's (1979?) no converters factory came with lockup features.

2.  Now they do.

3.  I have never heard of a older trans overheating because the
converter was slipping like it was designed.

4.  I have read that GM BYPASSES the cooler partially when in lockup to
make things WARMER to increase fuel economy.  This is very contrary to
what has been passed around.

I can see a loss of some mileage and maybe, but doubtful, a slightly
longer trans life.  But why would it overheat?  My 1980 Turbo Trans AM
did get warm in 100+ weather driving for Domino's, but that was the only
time.  My 1976 Delta NEVER overheated.  My father's 68 Delmont did in
1969 with a trailer going through the mountains, (350 4BBL, THM400).

I have 2.14 gears now, and have been thinking of disabling the lockup as
the 350 in there now is not cammed for the 2.14's.  When I get a new cam
ground for the low RPM, I will probably try it again.  But right now 43
MPH is too slow for a lockup to come in, and when I drive back and forth
to work at 45-60, It is D@mn annoying!  I will probably change to a
THM350 (not C) when this THM200C craps out.

Please give some reasonable info about the lockup and cooling.

Thanks!
Thomas Martin
1985 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 09:06:23 -0500
From: "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu>
Subject: Re: OCA Nationals

At 10:07 PM 1/22/1998 EST, you wrote:
>What are the dates of the olds nat.?  What goes on there?  How do you
>register?  I am very interested.  A speedy reply would be great.  It may not
>be too late to take vac for that time.
>

Go to the Oldsmobile Club of America web site and click on the link for the
1998 OCA Nationals.  The URL is

http://www.erols.com/brad442/oca/





*********************************************
Dan Gulino
1975 Delta 88 Convertible
gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu
http://ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu/~gulino/rides.html
*********************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 09:27:04 -0500
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: Axle Ratio

Actually in '72 the diff's are 8.5.

Fernando Proietto
A/Manager
Systems Analyst - Informatics Division
Environment Canada
Atmospheric Environment Branch - Ontario Region
4905 Dufferin St.
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: Tracy H. Shires[SMTP:twodogs@ou.edu]
> Sent: Thursday, January 22, 1998 10:25 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: Axle Ratio
>
> At 05:08 PM 1/22/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
> I did this conversion last summer in my 81. It has the 7.5 inch pinion
> gear. I'm not sure what the pinion size was for 72. Maybe someone here
> can clarify that. Richmond makes a set of gears for the 7.5 in
> pinioned small carrier I have. Summit sells em for a little under 200
> bucks.
>
> I also put a powertrax unit in at the same time. The labor for having
> the dealership put them in cost be $150. Boy I love the combo! If you
> don't already have a 200r4 I'd get ready to buy one. I used my th350
> for about 2 weeks before I totally went nuts driving 5000 rpm on the
> interstate.. Best of luck!! Privately Email me if you would like
> Summit's number
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 08:56:12 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro

Yup! I want a set for my 68 442! Jim, let me know as soon as you can start
selling them!


Thanx!
Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas


>Thanks for the info. I've had a couple customers ask about them.
>Thanks,
>Jim
>Hello there.
>This is Coy, it will be about 10 days before our first set of vinyl
stripes
>will be ready as we are currently retooling.
>I will send you a set and some other information when they are ready.
>Also if you are interested in putting a link on our web page let me know.
>Look forward to working with you.
>Thanks
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 09:19:28 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Lockup/Overheat Question

Thomas,

I can help little and only confuse some on this issue.  Lock-up convereters
are used to increase efficiency/gas mileage.  they are not the same
transmissions as the old ones in many respects.  That lock-up feature does
not stand alone and works in conjunction with other features.

BTW.  Packard's Ultramatic has a lock-up feature beginning about 1951.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible


>I know this has probably been around time and time again, but I never
>has seen it.  So if it has, lets not kill it again.  Email me directly
>if you wish.
>
>Some people say that if you disable the lockup converter, your
>transmission will overheat.
>
>I tend not to agree, but I would like to be edjamacated.
>
>1.  From the dawn of the automatic with a torque converter till the
>early 80's (1979?) no converters factory came with lockup features.
>
>2.  Now they do.

>
>Thanks!
>Thomas Martin
>1985 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 10:25:54 -0500
From: IRONMAN <jev114@email.psu.edu>
Subject: Re: quad 4 back again

>were back again and i couldnt wait to get back.  on christmas break i
>tinkered with the calais and this babys movin'.  Fixed that battery
>problem and smoked the tires a few times to wake her up.  thanks to all
>the q4 guys for keeping me up to date with calais/achieva info.  I also
>heard the new alero was unveiled this month, has anyone seen it??  Lets
>fire up the pocket rockets 1 more time.

i'm for that, glad to hear your running well above 7000, i did some fine
tuning on mince also over break, the cold air induction and some tweaking
tips gave her some more punch! when i ice down the intake temperature
sensor it fakes the computer out and thinks its colder than it is so it
messing with my fuel curve and really makes an improvement tha'ts easy
power. i'll be out looking for 5 liters this weekend.

go pocket rockets
IRONMAN

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 09:39:19 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: Re: Non-remote mirrors (the fix)

> What happens when the allen head sockets are stripped out...WAAAAAA!

Find a flat-blade screwdriver whose tip is a really tight fit in the
socket.
Pound it in with a hammer. Turn as usual to remove.
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 09:45:40 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: RE: Non-remote mirrors (the fix)

> Ya know that thought has come to mind on more than one
occasion...

(Always makes me do a doubletake when I send email across the
Internet to someone who's actually on-line at the time.  :-)

Another tool that might work nicely is a Torx bit. Its splines
will wedge into the crevices of the socket a bit better than
an Allen key, which relies on the _flats_ of the socket.
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 08:07:07 -0800
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: [Fwd: [Fwd: E-mail phone charge]]

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- --------------674D39A75203
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I know that this isn't Olds-related, however, it is important that we
work together to respond to the following situation:

Chris

- --------------674D39A75203
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Received: from tunis (torres@tunis.aisf.com [204.107.193.75]) by
wanchai.aisf.com with SMTP (8.7.6/8.7.3) id RAA02431 for <ui>; Thu, 22 Jan 1998
17:42:33 -0800 (PST) Sender: torres Message-ID: <34C7F59E.3AEE@aisf.com> Date:
Thu, 22 Jan 1998 17:42:54 -0800 From: Felipe Torres <torres@nfs.aisf.com>
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Received: from mtigwc03.worldnet.att.net (mtigwc03.worldnet.att.net
[204.127.131.34]) by wanchai.aisf.com with ESMTP (8.7.6/8.7.3) id RAA18699 for
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          for <torres@nfs.aisf.com>; Fri, 23 Jan 1998 01:12:49 +0000
Reply-To: <Elicacssinc@worldnet.att.net>
From: "Eberhard Lietsch" <Elicacssinc@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Felipe Torres" <torres@nfs.aisf.com>
Subject:  E-mail phone charge
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 20:12:50 -0500
X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
X-Priority: 3
X-Mailer: Microsoft Internet Mail 4.70.1162
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
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Message-ID: <19980123011248.AAA9681@default>

FELIPE EL MAIL DE TU CASA NO TRABAJA.
> > Tell your friends, tell everyone who uses e-mail. This is to inform you
> of
> > a very important matter
> > currently under view by the FCC.
> >
> > Your local telephone company has filled a proposal with the FCC to
impose
> > per minute charges
> > for your Internet service.  They contend that your usage has or will
> hinder
> > the operation of the telephone
> > network.  E-mail will diminish if users were required to pay additional
> per
> > minutes charges.
> > The FCC has created an e-mail box for your comments.
> >
> > Response MUST be received by February 13, 1998.   Send your comments to
"
> > isp@fcc.gov " tell them
> > what you think.  Every phone company is in this one and they are trying
> to
> > sneak it in just under the
> > wire for litigation.
> >
> > Let everybody you know hear about this one.  Give the address to
EVERYONE
> > YOU CAN THINK OF.
> >
> > FCC E-mail address is  isp@fcc.gov
> >
> > The telephone companies would like to kill the competition from ISP by
> > FORCING to charge per minute
> > for Internet access.




- --------------674D39A75203--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 11:13:09 EST
From: BIG JERMES <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Axle Ratio

In a message dated 98-01-23 09:41:30 EST, you write:

<< Actually in '72 the diff's are 8.5. >>
well wait a minute, arent they 8.2"?  some late model 442s had the 8.5".
maybe im wrong....

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 98 11:12:59 GMT
From: "ADMINISTRATOR" <administrator@Orbital.COM>
Subject: cc:Mail Link to SMTP Undeliverable Message

- --simple boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ACSII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Message is undeliverable.
Reason: A platform specific error occurred while writing to a file.
Likely disk full.
Original text follows:
- ---------------------


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Received: from osc-int.orbital.com by hqgate.orbital.com (ccMail Link to SMTP
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id
<ZVTYZNV6>; Fri, 23 Jan 1998 09:39:21 -0600 Message-Id:
<51ED3F5356D8D011A0B1006097C307344E8582@martinique> From: "Green, Andrew"
<acg@datalogics.com> To: "'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'"
<oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca> Cc: "'Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com'"
<Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com> Subject: Re: Non-remote mirrors (the fix)
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 09:39:19 -0600 X-Priority: 3 Mime-Version: 1.0 X-Mailer:
Internet Mail Service (5.0.1458.49) Content-Type: text/plain Sender:
oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca Precedence: bulk Reply-To:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

> What happens when the allen head sockets are stripped out...WAAAAAA!

Find a flat-blade screwdriver whose tip is a really tight fit in the
socket.
Pound it in with a hammer. Turn as usual to remove.
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282



- --simple boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 12:41:08 EST
From: Knightvd <Knightvd@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Axle Ratio

In a message dated 98-01-22 22:40:51 EST, you write:

<< I also put a powertrax unit in at the same time. The labor for having the
dealership put them in cost be $150. Boy I love the combo! If you don't
already have a 200r4 I'd get ready to buy one. I used my th350 for about 2
weeks before I totally went nuts driving 5000 rpm on the interstate.. Best of
luck!! Privately Email me if you would like Summit's number


What's a powertrax unit??


Vince Knight
71  Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 12:58:33 -0500
From: Jim Hurd <jhurd@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: TH-200R4 ?'s

>I have 2.14 gears now, and have been thinking of disabling the lockup as
>the 350 in there now is not cammed for the 2.14's.  When I get a new cam
>ground for the low RPM, I will probably try it again.  But right now 43
>MPH is too slow for a lockup to come in, and when I drive back and forth
>to work at 45-60, It is D@mn annoying!  I will probably change to a
>THM350 (not C) when this THM200C craps out.
>
>Please give some reasonable info about the lockup and cooling.
>
>Thanks!
>Thomas Martin
>1985 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
>

        I too drive between 35-50mph and the converter goes in and out of
lock up.  Last tankful I drove most of it in D, but after getting 16mpg
(307), that option is out.  This summer I was thinking of installing a
switch to control the lockup (mine locks up @~45mph).  Will this adversely
affect the tranny in anyway. (increased heat, wear, etc.)

        Also, I believe the computer controls the lockup (does it control
overdrive too?).  My tranny shifts erratic once in awhile.  Shifting into
3rd and OD (lockup) below 35mph.  Sometimes if I press down, and drive
through the pinging, it will shift, other times it won't and will "chatter".
Where should I start to look?  Are there vaccumm lines or kickdown cables I
should check?  I was going to wait till summer to worry about messing with
it, but since all the TH-200R4 ?'s are happening now I figured I'd throw
mine into the mix.  TIA.




Jim H.
'87 Salon
...Still looking for shop manuals...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 13:26:51 +0500
From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Subject: Re: Lockup/Overheat Question

>Some people say that if you disable the lockup converter, your
>transmission will overheat.
>
>I tend not to agree, but I would like to be edjamacated.

>3.  I have never heard of a older trans overheating because the
>converter was slipping like it was designed.

This is the arguement for how a lockup reduces heat. (hope it makes sense):

Using the lockup is mainly an issue with overdrive trannys, which allow for
some seriously high final drive ratios.  Even with say, a 3.55 rearend
ratio, the final drive is still only about 2.38.  With that  ratio your
cruise RPM will be in the neighborhood of 1900 RPM @65MPH and 1200RPM @45MPH
depending on your tire size.  The problem is that most stock torque
converters stall at around 1400-1800 RPM, and high stall torque converters
stall even higher.  When the cruise RPM is lower than the stall speed of the
torque converter, it slips more than it would if the stall speed were lower
than cruise RPM.  That's where the extra heat is generated.  In addition, if
you have a high stall converter, you're going to generate even more heat
than you would with a stock converter.  That's why most people reccomend an
auxilliary transmission cooler with a high stall converter.  That's also why
the conventional wisdom is to use a lockup if you have it.  Most cars that
came with non lockup converters have gear ratios of 2.56 or more.  Most of
the older Oldses have 2.73 or 3.08 ratios stock, which put cruise RPM higher
than the stall speed of the stock converters, so heat generated by exessive
slip was not much of a problem.

>4.  I have read that GM BYPASSES the cooler partially when in lockup to
>make things WARMER to increase fuel economy.  This is very contrary to
>what has been passed around.

That is correct, but many performance tranmssion builders eliminate that
feature so that the cooler gets more fluid to it during lockup.

>I can see a loss of some mileage and maybe, but doubtful, a slightly
>longer trans life.

I've read the lockup is worth 1-2 mpg, maybe more if you have a high-stall
converter.

>I have 2.14 gears now, and have been thinking of disabling the lockup as
>the 350 in there now is not cammed for the 2.14's.

To be honest, I don't like to run the lockup either.  The final drive ratio
of my Vista Cruiser with a 3.08 reaend and 2004R overdrive is 2.06.  That
allows me to cruise at 1600RPM @65MPH and 1100RPM @45.  The stall speed of
the converter is only about 1500, and at such a low RPM I worry about
bogging the engine too much, and there's not much pep with lockup engaged. (
I really need to change the rearend gears to take full advangage of the
overdrive.)  I quit using it because I figured the tranny was going to need
rebuilt and beffed up inside of 12 months no matter what I did, it was a
stock TH2004R behind an olds 350.  I just ignored it because I decided I'd
rather have the extra pep, and I've been driving it that way for 2 years and
4 months now. :)  The tranny fluid has never smelled burnt, didn't look bad
when I last changed it, and (Knocking on wood) it runs just as smoothly as
it ever did.

Yeah, ok, so I'm a hypocrite. :)  I still think the lockup is a good idea,
but my car is just not set up right for it.  When I get a decent set of
rearend gears I hope to use it more.  I also think that when you buy a 2004R
it's a good idea to get a lockup converter, and if you don't like it you can
unplug it. (or just leave it turned off)

I've never found out how big a difference it's supposed to make.  For all I
know it means the difference between getting 80,000 miles or 100,000 miles
out of a transmission.  But the more it gets abused, the less it's going to
last, so it may make a bigger difference if you drive hard.

>  When I get a new cam
>ground for the low RPM, I will probably try it again.

How about going to a lower rearend ratio?  Even 2.73 would probably improve
acceleration, and still be very tolerable on the highway and at the pumps.

>But right now 43
>MPH is too slow for a lockup to come in, and when I drive back and forth
>to work at 45-60, It is D@mn annoying!

I think the lockup comes on so early in these cars to keep emissions down.
Kinda like the new camaros have that deal where the manual transmission
locks out second and third gear (or something like that) to pass emissions
at certain speeds.  We have the GM bean counters to thank for thoes
"features". :)



Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cultass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 14:10:36 -0500 (EST)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Re: U.S. Auto Body

  For those of you who have ordered or are considering ordering hoods or
  other body parts from U.S. Auto Body (or through Dick Miller Raacing) I
  received my cowl induction hood today and could not be more pleased with
  the quality.  My body/paint shop was similarly impressed.  (usual
  disclaimeers apply - your experience may be better or worse)



Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.infinet.com/~avar



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 14:15:36 -0500
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: Axle Ratio

To my knowledge anything before '72 was using 8.5"

Fernando Proietto
A/Manager
Systems Analyst - Informatics Division
Environment Canada
Atmospheric Environment Branch - Ontario Region
4905 Dufferin St.
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: BIG JERMES[SMTP:BIGJERMES@aol.com]
> Sent: Friday, January 23, 1998 11:13 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Axle Ratio
>
> In a message dated 98-01-23 09:41:30 EST, you write:
>
> << Actually in '72 the diff's are 8.5. >>
> well wait a minute, arent they 8.2"?  some late model 442s had the
> 8.5".
> maybe im wrong....
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 13:38:27 -0600
From: mls@wwa.com
Subject: Re: 442 Key Blank

>This is a long shot but a fella I know in Akron, OH is heavy into all kinds
>of keys and things.  I think he even runs ads in JWO.  He is worth a call
>because he goes to all the shows and swap meets in the Midwest and he buys
>up old stock.
>
>Call: Joey Jester
>(330) 376-8181

Thanks for the suggestion. I called the guy you mentioned, and he knew
exaclty what I was talking about. Unfortunatly, he didn't have one, or have
any idea where to get one. At this point it looks like I'm out of luck so far.

Mike

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª1069
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