
oldsmobile-digest     Saturday, January 24 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1070



Re: U.S. Auto Body
Re: Lockup/Overheat Question
Re: U.S. Auto Body
Carburetor question
non-Olds FCC internet response
Re: Sending Unit/Bumper Bolts
'66 Ram Air Kit
Re: [Fwd: [Fwd: E-mail phone charge]]
[Fwd: Imposing per minute charges for internet service -Reply]
Re: My 200-4R info wanted...
'68 Cutlass/442 Ignition Switch
Re: TH-200R4 ?'s
Fwd: J&M in CA
Re: holes in air duct - 76 Delta Royale
Re: questions
4 spd auto shifter wanted ...86 salon
Re: Color Scheme
Re: questions
Re: Crankscrapers
Re: U.S. Auto Body
Re: Under hood color
Re: Axle Ratio
Re: My 1983 Olds Regency Hit 200,000 Miles
Re:  Trunk Floors
My first try at a web page
Re: Valve covers and Tach
Re: questions
Re: Crankscrapers/Air cleaner letters/mirror removal
Re: Engine Possibility?
260 Head Ports
Minor Details on 70 442
id of wagon
Re: id of wagon
Re: My first try at a web page
Re: My first try at a web page
Re: id of wagon
cc:Mail Link to SMTP Undeliverable Message
cc:Mail Link to SMTP Undeliverable Message
cc:Mail Link to SMTP Undeliverable Message
cc:Mail Link to SMTP Undeliverable Message
Re: Crankscrapers
Re: Trunk Floors
Re: U.S. Auto Body

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 14:51:36 EST
From: StafRT007 <StafRT007@aol.com>
Subject: Re: U.S. Auto Body

Does U.S auto Body offer repro OAI hoods?  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 15:00:07 -0500
From: "G. Douglas Burton" <postman@writeme.com>
Subject: Re: Lockup/Overheat Question

Hmmm, more about lockup converters.  Just a couple of questions about it
from one who has had problems with it in the past.  Actually presently too
as it currently is not working as it should due to the speed sensor in the
speedometer not working cause the cable is not turning, etc...

1. Could a lockup converter which is locking up prematurely cause the main
bearings in the engine to wear prematurely due to lugging?

2. Now that it's not working ('84 Cutlass Supreme V-6 THM250), cause an
overheating problem?

As some of you may know, I use this car on a mail route which makes it run
hotter than normal I'm sure.  Since the original radiator developed some
holes, I replaced it with one from a V-8 model.  It still runs hot!  Any
suggestions?


(¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯)
{      Just a message from Doug       }
{  http://www.seidata.com/~gdburton   }
{   '84 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme    }
(¸¸.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸)


At 01:26 PM 1/23/98 +0500, you wrote:
>>Some people say that if you disable the lockup converter, your
>>transmission will overheat. 
>>
>>I tend not to agree, but I would like to be edjamacated.  
>
>>3.  I have never heard of a older trans overheating because the
>>converter was slipping like it was designed.  
>
>This is the arguement for how a lockup reduces heat. (hope it makes sense):
>
>Using the lockup is mainly an issue with overdrive trannys, which allow for
>some seriously high final drive ratios.  Even with say, a 3.55 rearend
>ratio, the final drive is still only about 2.38.  With that  ratio your
>cruise RPM will be in the neighborhood of 1900 RPM @65MPH and 1200RPM @45MPH
>depending on your tire size.  The problem is that most stock torque
>converters stall at around 1400-1800 RPM, and high stall torque converters
>stall even higher.  When the cruise RPM is lower than the stall speed of the
>torque converter, it slips more than it would if the stall speed were lower
>than cruise RPM.  That's where the extra heat is generated.  In addition, if
>you have a high stall converter, you're going to generate even more heat
>than you would with a stock converter.  That's why most people reccomend an
>auxilliary transmission cooler with a high stall converter.  That's also why
>the conventional wisdom is to use a lockup if you have it.  Most cars that
>came with non lockup converters have gear ratios of 2.56 or more.  Most of
>the older Oldses have 2.73 or 3.08 ratios stock, which put cruise RPM higher
>than the stall speed of the stock converters, so heat generated by exessive
>slip was not much of a problem. 
>            
>>4.  I have read that GM BYPASSES the cooler partially when in lockup to
>>make things WARMER to increase fuel economy.  This is very contrary to
>>what has been passed around.
>
>That is correct, but many performance tranmssion builders eliminate that
>feature so that the cooler gets more fluid to it during lockup.  
>
>>I can see a loss of some mileage and maybe, but doubtful, a slightly
>>longer trans life.
>
>I've read the lockup is worth 1-2 mpg, maybe more if you have a high-stall
>converter.
>
>>I have 2.14 gears now, and have been thinking of disabling the lockup as
>>the 350 in there now is not cammed for the 2.14's.
>
>To be honest, I don't like to run the lockup either.  The final drive ratio
>of my Vista Cruiser with a 3.08 reaend and 2004R overdrive is 2.06.  That
>allows me to cruise at 1600RPM @65MPH and 1100RPM @45.  The stall speed of
>the converter is only about 1500, and at such a low RPM I worry about
>bogging the engine too much, and there's not much pep with lockup engaged. (
>I really need to change the rearend gears to take full advangage of the
>overdrive.)  I quit using it because I figured the tranny was going to need
>rebuilt and beffed up inside of 12 months no matter what I did, it was a
>stock TH2004R behind an olds 350.  I just ignored it because I decided I'd
>rather have the extra pep, and I've been driving it that way for 2 years and
>4 months now. :)  The tranny fluid has never smelled burnt, didn't look bad
>when I last changed it, and (Knocking on wood) it runs just as smoothly as
>it ever did.  
>
>Yeah, ok, so I'm a hypocrite. :)  I still think the lockup is a good idea,
>but my car is just not set up right for it.  When I get a decent set of
>rearend gears I hope to use it more.  I also think that when you buy a 2004R
>it's a good idea to get a lockup converter, and if you don't like it you can
>unplug it. (or just leave it turned off)
>
>I've never found out how big a difference it's supposed to make.  For all I
>know it means the difference between getting 80,000 miles or 100,000 miles
>out of a transmission.  But the more it gets abused, the less it's going to
>last, so it may make a bigger difference if you drive hard.
>  
>>  When I get a new cam
>>ground for the low RPM, I will probably try it again.  
>
>How about going to a lower rearend ratio?  Even 2.73 would probably improve
>acceleration, and still be very tolerable on the highway and at the pumps.  
>
>>But right now 43
>>MPH is too slow for a lockup to come in, and when I drive back and forth
>>to work at 45-60, It is D@mn annoying! 
>
>I think the lockup comes on so early in these cars to keep emissions down.
>Kinda like the new camaros have that deal where the manual transmission
>locks out second and third gear (or something like that) to pass emissions
>at certain speeds.  We have the GM bean counters to thank for thoes
>"features". :)
>
>
>
>Greg Pruett
>72 Vista Cruiser
>67 Cutlass Supreme
>80 Cultass Calais
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 12:08:07 -0800
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: U.S. Auto Body

The Viking wrote:
> 
>   For those of you who have ordered or are considering ordering hoods or
>   other body parts from U.S. Auto Body (or through Dick Miller Raacing) I

Is that U.S. Auto Parts?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 16:05:41 -0800
From: Boogah <Boogah@en.com>
Subject: Carburetor question

Need any ideas on the following:

I have a 72 Cutlass Supreme with the 2V carb.  I have tried starting the
car per the owners manual instructions.  Depress the gas pedal one time
and release slowly.  Then start car with foot off of the accelerator
pedal.  When I do this the car starts fine but after about 20 seconds it
sputters and peters out. After about 4 times it will stay running. 
After running about 1 minute I try tapping the accelerator to kick the
idle down to no avail.  I usually have to wait about 5-7 minutes before
the idle will kick down.  I do not like the idea of the car idling at
high for that long....  

I am reasonable certain that it is a choke problem, maybe the vacuum
advance? or the choke rod needs adjusted.  The carb was rebuilt before I
bought it. (not torn down but the usual on car job pump, needle, etc)..
Am also thinking it may be the stove pipe from intake to choke coil.

Any ideas would be great

Thank you

Joe Wolfe
72 Cutlass Supreme
2V carburetor 
Ebony Black
62112 miles

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 14:30:51 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: non-Olds FCC internet response

I shot a heated e-mail to the FCC adress given and received an automated
response that basically said the issue was dead and they were NOT enforcing
any per minute charges at this time.

Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 16:10:38 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Sending Unit/Bumper Bolts

loris wrote:
> 
> Has anyone used Year One's bumper bolts - they tell me
> they are polished aluminum, I think, not chromed.
> 
> I prefer not to use the capped bumper bolts.  They look so cheap.  

They do look pitiful, don't they?  Just for info, the caps are NORMALLY
a stainless steel skin cap over the steel bolt, and are usually correct
for most stock restoration applications.  They MAY make aluminum capped
ones, but I haven't seen any myself.  To be honest, use whichever you
feel comfortable with, since, after all, YOU will be the one living with
and washing/waxing it.

2 cents,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 17:06:11 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: '66 Ram Air Kit

Hey Jim from the Akron OH area who bought a '66 Ram Air Kit from a guy in
Columbia Station yesterday: If you're out there, I'd like to talk to you. 
Please E-mail me privately.

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 17:31:38 -0500
From: loris <loris@tir.com>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: [Fwd: E-mail phone charge]]

>Your local telephone company has filled a proposal with the FCC to
>impose per minute charges for your Internet service..
>

Thanks for bringing this to our attention. I just sent a letter to the
FCC, my State Representative, and Governor John Engler.  This is
obviously an attempt by the local telephone companies to screw us, the
concumers, for their lack of responding to an exploding technology
demand by not upgrading their infrastructure or addressing the situation
properly.

I strongly suggest all of you take some time and let the above mentioned
parties know how you feel about this.

- -Loris Scarnecchia
Macomb, MI

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 17:34:25 -0500
From: loris <loris@tir.com>
Subject: [Fwd: Imposing per minute charges for internet service -Reply]

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- --------------53D974A023A0
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For your information ...

This was an automated response from the FCC:

- -Loris

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To: loris@tir.com
Subject: Imposing per minute charges for internet service -Reply
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This is an automated response to the message you sent to isp@fcc.gov.  We established this mailbox for informal comments about usage of the public switched telephone network by Internet access and information service providers for a proceeding on this matter in 1997.  

If you are responding to a message stating that local phone companies have asked the FCC for permission to impose per-minute charges for Internet access, please be aware that this information is out of date.  The FCC decided in May 1997 NOT to allow imposition of interstate access charges on Internet service providers. There is no comment period currently open in this proceeding.

More information on Access Charges and the ISP proceeding is available at <http://www.fcc.gov/isp.html>  

Look for more features and announcements on our Web site, <http://www.fcc.gov/>, in the future!

updated 1/6/98


- --------------53D974A023A0--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 17:14:35 -0600
From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@interaccess.com>
Subject: Re: My 200-4R info wanted...

Tom Millard wrote:
> 
> I was wondering if any had a copy of the long letter I wrote on 200-4R's a
> while back.  I know I sent it out to a few people personally and had posted
> it on the list on several occasions.  I recently did some hard drive
> cleaning a lost it by mistake.
> 
Tom,
 I've got it....let me know if you don't hear from anyone else...I
gigure you don't want 50 people to mail it to you in its entirety... :-)

- -- 
- ---Matt
Chicago, IL

- --------------------------------------------------------
mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
- --------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 16:41:36 -0700
From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Subject: '68 Cutlass/442 Ignition Switch

Hi Gang,

I finally got tired of my ignition switch falling into the dash every time
I started my '68 442, and I went to a machine shop to see about having the
retaining ring machined from aluminum.  I've been looking for a long time
for replacements for the platic retaining rings, but nobody has any that
are in decent shape.  All the parts at the salvage yards are either already
gone or already broken.

The machine shop is going to call me back on Monday with a price.  I only
need 2 (I have a convertible 442 and a hardtop 442), but will keep a couple
of spares just in case.  If anyone else is interested in one, let me know,
and I'll sell them for my cost plus shipping.

Thanks,
Bob
- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         mailto://rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 18:50:08 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Yasczak <VJTD@grove.iup.edu>
Subject: Re: TH-200R4 ?'s

	I think that I'm having the same type of problem with my 87.  It
doesn't do it all of the time though, some days it's fine and others it's not. 
I haven't had time to do anything with it since I've been at school and it's at
it's sitting at home in the garage.  I was going to take it to get checked next
time I go home, some info would be helpful first.  

			Robb Yasczak	vjtd@grove.iup.edu
		
			1969 442
			1969 Cutlass S Convertible
			1976 442 
			1987 Cutlass Salon T-tops

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 19:00:13 EST
From: TERMO1L <TERMO1L@aol.com>
Subject: Fwd: J&M in CA

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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In a message dated 98-01-21 18:06:41 EST, TERMO1L writes:

<<  does anyone know a number or address of J >>


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From: TERMO1L <TERMO1L@aol.com>
Return-path: <TERMO1L@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: J&M in CA
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 18:06:41 EST
Organization: AOL (http://www.aol.com)
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

I know where it is located but I am in WI does anyone know a number or address
of J&M speed center in Riverside CA?

Mike

- --part0_885600013_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 20:25:18 -0800
From: "anna hebrowska" <mixomixo@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: holes in air duct - 76 Delta Royale

It is the first one: air duct for the engine's air-cleaner snorkel. What is
an NOS?


- -----Original Message-----
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, January 19, 1998 5:43 PM
Subject: Re: holes in air duct - 76 Delta Royale


>>It needs a new air duct. Local auto parts store guy offered to order it
>>but then said he could not find it anywhere. Is this something that is
>>model and year specific ?
>
>Do you mean air duct for the engine's air-cleaner snorkel, or an air duct
>for the interior ventilation system? In either case, sometimes a universal
>duct will work, but sometimes the ends and connectors are specific to the
>application, so you'd need either an NOS (good luck!) or a junkyard duct in
>better shape. If it is a round duct with special ends, you might be able to
>replace the broken part with a universal-type hose (they're available in
>specific diameters, such as 2", 2 1/2", 3", etc.); there are even
>rectangular replacement ducts available, but here the selection is more
>limited.
>__________________________________________________________
>Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>
>1969 Toronado 455/TH425
>     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
>1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
>1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 98 20:42:38 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: questions

At 22:19 1/22/98 EST, you wrote:
>i have questions
>how can i tell if i have a 4 core radiator?i took the radiator out of my
>rallye.


    Count the number of horizontal flat tube rows outboard to inboard or
vice versa.


>my automatic trans does not have a cover over the fly wheel  should it?


    Yes.


 Glenn 
 '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 21:24:50 EST
From: RCKTPWR <RCKTPWR@aol.com>
Subject: 4 spd auto shifter wanted ...86 salon

Hello list, I put an 81 200r4 in my 86 salon. Underneath the car I see that my
orig 3spd auto shifter is busted. Does anyone have an orig 4spd type shifter
for me? I have the console of course.  If I go aftermarket, which 1 is a good
one? Can I keep my orig console top, or would it come w/the aftermarket
shifter?  
Thanx in advance
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 21:41:02 -0800
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: Color Scheme

Jerry Christopher wrote:

> Rick wrote:
>
> 2. Pearl White.
>
>
> - Jerry Christopher
> - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
> - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
> - Here we go Steelers!!!

   I go for the pearl white....but lets use some imagination.......white
base with a red flip flop....with accents of magenta pearl in just the
right places....maybe wheels....or grille...or go with the monochrome
look on the door handles and window trim.....my monte is this color
scheme...when it gets in the sun..its pink...turns heads in a
...well....heartbeat......Hoagie


1970 Cutlass SX Convertible
1971 442 W-30 Convertible
1971 442 "Hardtop Coupe"
1971 Monte Carlo
1969 Camaro RS
1997 Camaro Z-28

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 98 21:57:58 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: questions

A i removed my gas
>tank  but i cant get the sending unit out, how the heck do you get that lock
>ring off?

    First, completly empty the tank of any fuel and to be on the safer side,
partially fill it with water to eliminate the cumbustion from gas
fumes...(water can be removed and residue solved later).  With a hammer and
a large pin punch or chisel, strike the ears of the collar in a counterwise
direction.  Years of scale and rust have bonded that ring on there so don't
be afraid of whacking at it.  After the lock ring is off you may have to pry
the sender assembly loose from the o-ring it is sitting on or possibly by
now sealed to.  Just be sure the tank is free of fuel and heavy gas fumes. 


    Glenn
    '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 98 22:08:42 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: Crankscrapers

At 23:17 1/22/98 EST, you wrote:
>actually it doesn't make any sense to me.  so what your saying is that it
>touches the crank and therefor making friction.  now if you really think these
>contrapions really work, gohead and use them.  from my experience, the best
>thing to do is paint the inside of the block and oil pan.  the oil will run
>down the paint faster than the bare metal.  see there are many ways to solve
>problems and i just think the crankscraper doesn't work.
>
>mikey tvb@aol.com
>73 cutlass w/403
>

   Mikey,

     From your experience on painting the inside of the block and pan, where
can I get this paint or what type should I use?  I have never heard of this
before but then again I haven't any experience in this. 


   Glenn
   '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 22:31:51 -0500
From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net (Michael A. Evans)
Subject: Re: U.S. Auto Body

And for those of us on the hunt for the '76-'77 W-25 hood....U.S. Auto Body 
doesn't make them....is this where Dick orders his stuff from?


>  For those of you who have ordered or are considering ordering hoods or 
>  other body parts from U.S. Auto Body (or through Dick Miller Raacing) I 
>  received my cowl induction hood today and could not be more pleased with 
>  the quality.  My body/paint shop was similarly impressed.  (usual 
>  disclaimeers apply - your experience may be better or worse)
>  
>
>
>Al Varhus
>Columbus, Ohio 
>http://www.infinet.com/~avar
> 
>  
>
>


Mike Evans
Richland, MI

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 19:43:42 PST
From: "mark f" <jet85@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Under hood color

>From oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca Tue Jan 20 17:40:14 1998
>Received: by chebucto.ns.ca id <92437-3867>; Tue, 20 Jan 1998 21:31:07 
- -0400
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[204.127.131.34]) by chebucto.ns.ca with ESMTP id <91406-3868>; Tue, 20 
Jan 1998 21:08:47 -0400
>Received: from default ([12.66.117.68]) by mtigwc03.worldnet.att.net
>          (post.office MTA v2.0 0613 ) with SMTP id AAA1115
>          for <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; Wed, 21 Jan 1998 01:08:28 
+0000
>From:	"James Moore" <panman638@worldnet.att.net>
>To:	<oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Subject: Under hood color
>Date:	Tue, 20 Jan 1998 19:04:10 -0600
>Message-ID: <01bd2608$7b674040$4475420c@default>
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0012_01BD25D6.30CCD040"
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>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>I will soon be ready to paint a 1972 4-4-2. I need to know if the 
inside =
>of the hood is the same color as the car or is it black?
>
 I have a 71 442 w-30 and under the hood is black


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 22:42:42 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Axle Ratio

><< Actually in '72 the diff's are 8.5. >>
>well wait a minute, arent they 8.2"?  some late model 442s had the 8.5".
>maybe im wrong....

The 10-bolt "C" axles went from 8.2" to 8.5" in 1971, I believe.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 22:44:26 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: My 1983 Olds Regency Hit 200,000 Miles

>Hi everyone,well my car hit 200,000 miles today..The car still rides
>nice.. I change the oil every 4,000 miles.. I think this 307 is going to 
>run forever..Are there alot of list members cars over 200,000 miles
>please let me know.. Larry Polesnak

My '78 403/TH400 combination went over 220,000 miles before I rebuilt it. Of
course, at that point, it was on its last legs (life wasn't kind to it
before it came into my hands), but it got there. I don't find it
unreasonable, however, to expect to rebuild your engine every other decade
or so...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 22:46:50 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re:  Trunk Floors

>The good Doctor was asking how many types of trunk floors are available.
>First things first:  Trunk floor work can be a bear of a job.  We have
>used/sold at least four differnt types of trunk floor from at least 5 mfgrs.
>Some of the so called "one piece full floors"  dont even go from side to 
I know that the full-floors were not really all that "full", and only useful
for replacing the middle.

>you will also wind up replacing the fuel tank and body mount braces, so
>consider buying a 7 piece kit.  Beware the discounters selling the 3 piece (or
>7 Piece kit) made by Alexander Earley.  He's a nice guy but his floors fit
>like c**p.  We sell th one made by Classic Reproductions in Ohio and find it
>to be the best value in term of price, fit and ease of installation.  Hope
>this helps.

Thanks for the specific advice! That's exactly what I've been looking for.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 22:55:24 EST
From: NotDads442 <NotDads442@aol.com>
Subject: My first try at a web page

Hi Olds folks,

Well I've been working on my first web page and now have it done enough to let
y'all look at it.  Just a couple of pics of my car, 1991 W41, and some .wav
files.

I took the laptop to the garage tonight and started the record.  I think it
turned out pretty cool.  Those of you with a q4 will probably like it.  For
those with the big v8s it probably won't be as impressive. ;-) I'm not going
there again ;-).

Anyway let me know what you think.

Cecil
1991 W41
OCA # 29604

http://members.aol.com/notdads442/

PS.  You can also see us on 442.com.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 22:58:03 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Valve covers and Tach

>What info do you have on a 66 330?  Anything worth while?  Thats what I have
>and just had rebuilt any tips or tricks would be great.

It's a great engine; lifter bank angle is different from most other Oldses
(45' vs. 39'), so you'll have to specify that when you order a cam. Your
engine would most likely have #3 heads on it; as good a place as any to start.

The modifications that work on the 350 would apply to your 330; you could go
with larger valves for a higher RPM range. With your 330's forged crank, you
can spin it pretty high without self-destructing.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 23:04:07 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: questions

>i have questions

we have answers... ;)

>how can i tell if i have a 4 core radiator?i took the radiator out of my
>rallye.

A 2-row core is noticeably thinner than the end tanks, and you can see two
"layers" of tubing brazed to the tanks. A 4-row is almost as thick as the
end tanks, and you can see the four "layers" of tubing brazed to the tanks.

>my automatic trans does not have a cover over the fly wheel  should it?

Yes, though it's not crucial, though it's something you want to be *very*
careful about if you're working under the car with the engine turning! :o

>my am radio has the blue wire for a rear speaker  but   there is no rear
>speaker on the radio bezel  the nob just turns and turns  can i get a switch
>from somewhere or was this a factory option on the radio? 

There is a shunt plugged in next to where the fader knob mounts; you can
remove this, plug in a fader control, and then hook up a rear speaker.

>i removed my gas
>tank  but i cant get the sending unit out, how the heck do you get that lock
>ring off?

Though there is a tool, I've gone around and using a large screwdriver and a
hammer, drive on the little raised "tangs" on the locking ring. Work your
way around, and as you knock it loose, it will slowly rotate a bit at a
time. Oh, yeah, soak it with rust penetrant before you try this.

>on bottom of the rear window there are 3 small black trim pieces,  2
>smand 1 long piece,  i got the 2 small pieces off but i cant get the long
>piece to move   why?

Because it is welded on there.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 23:13:29 EST
From: Oldsparts <Oldsparts@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Crankscrapers/Air cleaner letters/mirror removal

Crankscrapers-FWIW I have been told by some "powertrain" engineers at
Oldsmobile that scraping the oil from the crank reduces reciprocating mass and
can add up to 15 H.P.

70-72 OAI air cleaners DID NOT have painted letters from the factory on
regular production cars.  This is one of very few areas of this hobby that I
do claim to have some expertise.

The Missouri Method of mirror removal:  A soft piece of pine placed on the
base and driven with a hammer.  With the mirror removed from the car the bolts
can easily be removed with pliers from the underside, and can then be re-used
as the allen head end is not all messed up.  Chris W. knows of what he
speaks...wonder where he went to school?

Steve Kenny
Call if you alredy messed up your mirror screws! 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 23:07:29 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Engine Possibility?

>	How about putting a 330 crank in a 403 block?  

You could; they've got the same exact stroke (3.39"). You wouldn't get any
more cubic inches, though.

>The idea would be to have a
>large bore in relation to the stroke=a higher reving motor.  Wasn't that
>the idea behind the 445 discussed here recently.

Yes, but the windowed-main block will destruct before the crank comes near
to destruction. It would be an absolute killer in a solid-main block,
though: 409 cubic inches X 7500rpm = LOTS of hp!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 23:23:48 EST
From: KS7RACING <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: 260 Head Ports

I have to agree with Dr. Barry on those heads on the 260's - the first time I
saw those heads I thought they were raw castings that had to be ported before
they were used.

These engines do any good with these heads, or with real heads on them?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 23:29:58 EST
From: Dan442Olds@aol.com
Subject: Minor Details on 70 442

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- --part0_885616198_boundary
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Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII




 The heater/ac control panel on my 70 442 needs replaced or redone.  The
 printing is faded and it just looks like something out of a 28 year old car.
 Anyone have a suggestion on this?
 
 Also, concerning the air induction unit (that which sets above the air
cleaner
 and has the vaccum door), it has the word "OLDSMOBILE" printed on it.  On my
 70 these raised letters are painted white.  I also have one from a 72 in
which
 the letters are not painted, it is just the raised letters on the black
 plastic.  Are each of these correct for their respective year model or did
the
 previous owner do some painting?  BTW, the 70 is a W-30 while the 72 is not.
 
 Thanks in Advance,
 
 Dan442Olds
  


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Subject: Minor Details on 70 442
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The heater/ac control panel on my 70 442 needs replaced or redone.  The
printing is faded and it just looks like something out of a 28 year old car.
Anyone have a suggestion on this?

Also, concerning the air induction unit (that which sets above the air cleaner
and has the vaccum door), it has the word "OLDSMOBILE" printed on it.  On my
70 these raised letters are painted white.  I also have one from a 72 in which
the letters are not painted, it is just the raised letters on the black
plastic.  Are each of these correct for their respective year model or did the
previous owner do some painting?  BTW, the 70 is a W-30 while the 72 is not.

Thanks in Advance,

Dan442Olds

- --part0_885616198_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 22:10:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Jack Karamanos <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: id of wagon

maybe someone could answere a question for me, i am not able to decode
late model vins, and i am looking at a 82? custom cruiser wagon that i
might purchase for my other half.
56k supposedly not turned over miles
straight body, a very dark blue color, med blue interior, split bench
no roof rack
wire wheel covers
$900 obo


thanks

47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 02:16:38 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: id of wagon

Jack Karamanos wrote:
> 
> maybe someone could answere a question for me, i am not able to decode
> late model vins, and i am looking at a 82? custom cruiser wagon that i
> might purchase for my other half.

Post the VIN (without the last six digits, if you like) and we'll
see what we can do.  Or better yet, check out my GM VIN Decoder
program, 
dowloadable at http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/decoder/decoder.html

and we'll see if it passes it's first test, other than my car...

If anyone wants to check it out, please do and email me with any
incorrect output.  Thanks!

+---------------------------------------------------------------+
|	__    ________						|
|	\ \  / __  __/	Jason Adcock				|
|	 \ \/ / / /	CS Major, Virginia Tech			|
|	  \  / / /	mailto:jadcock@vt.edu			|
|	   \/ /_/	http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/		|
|								|
+---------------------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 23:43:42 -0800
From: "mr. coy d. arbogast" <coyster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: My first try at a web page

test

- ----------
> From: NotDads442 <NotDads442@aol.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: My first try at a web page
> Date: Friday, January 23, 1998 7:55 PM
> 
> Hi Olds folks,
> 
> Well I've been working on my first web page and now have it done enough
to let
> y'all look at it.  Just a couple of pics of my car, 1991 W41, and some
.wav
> files.
> 
> I took the laptop to the garage tonight and started the record.  I think
it
> turned out pretty cool.  Those of you with a q4 will probably like it. 
For
> those with the big v8s it probably won't be as impressive. ;-) I'm not
going
> there again ;-).
> 
> Anyway let me know what you think.
> 
> Cecil
> 1991 W41
> OCA # 29604
> 
> http://members.aol.com/notdads442/
> 
> PS.  You can also see us on 442.com.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 01:02:58 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: My first try at a web page

Just a couple of pics of my car, 1991 W41, and some .wav
> files.

Sha-weet!!!    ("sweet" with a ~late~ night accent...)

> I think it turned out pretty cool.

Agreed!

> For those with the big v8s 

 -- That's me....

it probably won't be as impressive.

Wanna Bet???  Sounds pretty mean and nasty to me!  I'd have ~loved~ to
have had ~that~ powertrain in our 88 Cutlass Pace Car!   That "other"
thing under the hood sure sucked!  I guess the ~real~ pace car got the
Q4, but our school couldn't get that lucky, I guess.
  
 ;-) I'm not going there again ;-).

Pro'lly safest.  To me, nothing beats a big block (everyone knows that
about ~me~!) but by today's scaled-down standards, those Q4's are just
plain hot!  (P.C. enough?  Besides, I'd rather push a Q4 than drive a
ch*vy....  Anyway, 'nuff of that!)

> Anyway let me know what you think. 

Not bad at all.  Kinda makes it look like the ~car's~ under
construction, though.  I've got my pages labeled similarly, but most of
my cars ~are~ under construction  ;)  The "exterior.jpg" might need a
"width = 100" or something like that?  (HTML pro's jump in here please) 
I'm at 800 X 600, and have to scroll over a bit, which I don't mind at
all personally (as far as I'm concerned, pictures ~can't~ be too big! 
Ain't much that prints out better than a well-scanned 5 Meg picture, but
that's kinda asking a bit too much of any web page!  :(  I remember
reading someone's top ten whine-list of web pages, and one of those was
the need to scroll sideways.  For what it's worth.  All looked great to
me.  Except I noticed ~one~ thing missing, the link to the "Oh, you want
to hear it doing what it does best, catching heavy rubber through three
gears...."  'Course, I suppose the significant other played a censorship
role there?  Then again, if you're facing weather like we're facing,
that wouldn't record well at all.  I think f*rds can do that on ice.  (I
~think~!)

- -- 
               Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
		http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
		        Sidney Montana

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 01:10:14 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: id of wagon

Jack Karamanos wrote:
> 
> maybe someone could answer a question for me,

Sure, fire away!  ;)

 i am not able to decode
> late model vins, and i am looking at a 82? custom cruiser wagon 
> 56k supposedly not turned over miles straight body,
> $900 obo

So what's the question?  (I'm guessing that part got lost somewhere? :)  
Give us the VIN and we can decipher some of it for ya, as for the value,
it all depends on what ~you~ are willing to spend.  As far as I can
advise, ~ANY~ running, drivable car is worth $1000, and my experiences
at a used car dealer helped me determine that (You'd be amazed at what
some people will ~actually~ pay for!) although I've seen much nicer cars
sell for much less.  Give us a few more details, we'll be happy to steer
ya right...


               Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
		http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
		        Sidney Montana

------------------------------

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Jack Karamanos wrote:
> 
> maybe someone could answere a question for me, i am not able to decode
> late model vins, and i am looking at a 82? custom cruiser wagon that i
> might purchase for my other half.

Post the VIN (without the last six digits, if you like) and we'll
see what we can do.  Or better yet, check out my GM VIN Decoder
program, 
dowloadable at http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/decoder/decoder.html

and we'll see if it passes it's first test, other than my car...

If anyone wants to check it out, please do and email me with any
incorrect output.  Thanks!

+---------------------------------------------------------------+
|	__    ________						|
|	\ \  / __  __/	Jason Adcock				|
|	 \ \/ / / /	CS Major, Virginia Tech			|
|	  \  / / /	mailto:jadcock@vt.edu			|
|	   \/ /_/	http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/		|
|								|
+---------------------------------------------------------------+


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test

- ----------
> From: NotDads442 <NotDads442@aol.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: My first try at a web page
> Date: Friday, January 23, 1998 7:55 PM
> 
> Hi Olds folks,
> 
> Well I've been working on my first web page and now have it done enough
to let
> y'all look at it.  Just a couple of pics of my car, 1991 W41, and some
.wav
> files.
> 
> I took the laptop to the garage tonight and started the record.  I think
it
> turned out pretty cool.  Those of you with a q4 will probably like it. 
For
> those with the big v8s it probably won't be as impressive. ;-) I'm not
going
> there again ;-).
> 
> Anyway let me know what you think.
> 
> Cecil
> 1991 W41
> OCA # 29604
> 
> http://members.aol.com/notdads442/
> 
> PS.  You can also see us on 442.com.


- --simple boundary--

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Just a couple of pics of my car, 1991 W41, and some .wav
> files.

Sha-weet!!!    ("sweet" with a ~late~ night accent...)

> I think it turned out pretty cool.

Agreed!

> For those with the big v8s 

 -- That's me....

it probably won't be as impressive.

Wanna Bet???  Sounds pretty mean and nasty to me!  I'd have ~loved~ to
have had ~that~ powertrain in our 88 Cutlass Pace Car!   That "other"
thing under the hood sure sucked!  I guess the ~real~ pace car got the
Q4, but our school couldn't get that lucky, I guess.
  
 ;-) I'm not going there again ;-).

Pro'lly safest.  To me, nothing beats a big block (everyone knows that
about ~me~!) but by today's scaled-down standards, those Q4's are just
plain hot!  (P.C. enough?  Besides, I'd rather push a Q4 than drive a
ch*vy....  Anyway, 'nuff of that!)

> Anyway let me know what you think. 

Not bad at all.  Kinda makes it look like the ~car's~ under
construction, though.  I've got my pages labeled similarly, but most of
my cars ~are~ under construction  ;)  The "exterior.jpg" might need a
"width = 100" or something like that?  (HTML pro's jump in here please) 
I'm at 800 X 600, and have to scroll over a bit, which I don't mind at
all personally (as far as I'm concerned, pictures ~can't~ be too big! 
Ain't much that prints out better than a well-scanned 5 Meg picture, but
that's kinda asking a bit too much of any web page!  :(  I remember
reading someone's top ten whine-list of web pages, and one of those was
the need to scroll sideways.  For what it's worth.  All looked great to
me.  Except I noticed ~one~ thing missing, the link to the "Oh, you want
to hear it doing what it does best, catching heavy rubber through three
gears...."  'Course, I suppose the significant other played a censorship
role there?  Then again, if you're facing weather like we're facing,
that wouldn't record well at all.  I think f*rds can do that on ice.  (I
~think~!)

- -- 
               Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
		http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
		        Sidney Montana


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Date: 	Sat, 24 Jan 1998 01:10:14 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
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Jack Karamanos wrote:
> 
> maybe someone could answer a question for me,

Sure, fire away!  ;)

 i am not able to decode
> late model vins, and i am looking at a 82? custom cruiser wagon 
> 56k supposedly not turned over miles straight body,
> $900 obo

So what's the question?  (I'm guessing that part got lost somewhere? :)  
Give us the VIN and we can decipher some of it for ya, as for the value,
it all depends on what ~you~ are willing to spend.  As far as I can
advise, ~ANY~ running, drivable car is worth $1000, and my experiences
at a used car dealer helped me determine that (You'd be amazed at what
some people will ~actually~ pay for!) although I've seen much nicer cars
sell for much less.  Give us a few more details, we'll be happy to steer
ya right...


               Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
		http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
		        Sidney Montana


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Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 01:48:12 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Crankscrapers

> Crankscrapers-FWIW I have been told by some "powertrain" engineers at
> Oldsmobile that scraping the oil from the crank reduces reciprocating mass and
> can add up to 15 H.P.
             
OK, let's add a ~bit~ more to this well-beaten horse...  Look at it this
way (you can try it at home...)  When you change your oil, and
inadvertantly drop the plug into the drain pan (Don't lie, I ~know~ you
all have done it at least once!  Some of us ~many~ more!)  When you get
it out it's (of course) completely coverred in oil, right?  A gooey
runny mess, right?  Think about how much you hate getting that crap on
your hands, when it slowly oozes down to your elbow as you're trying to
wipe it off.  'Nother example, for those who've built engines.  Remember
dipping the piston assemblies in a coffee can filled with oil before
installation?  Whe you pulled it out, there was some amazing amount of
oil stuck there? (and a lot less in the can...)  More of that "adhesion"
property coming through here.  I ~know~ at least once you stared at it,
thinking it looks cool, all new and shiny and slowly trying to get back
into the coffee can or whatever lower surface it decides to drip onto. 

OK, now remember that.  Back to our ~own~ hypothetical situation.  It's
a given that the crankshaft is coverred in oil constantly.  Oil seeps
out of the bearings, and through the splash holes, etc.  It gets flung
around the crankcase, and, if the block is painted, quickly tries to run
back down.  Whoa, wait, there's another obstacle, a crankshaft (where
the hell'd ~that~ come from!?) Suddenly it's a ping-pong game.  Some
actually makes it past, buta lot of it just bounces around for it.  The
crank-scrapers and windage trays pull the oil off of the crankshaft
~before~ it has a chance to get flung upwards.  That about covers the
Oldsmobile-famous problem of sucking the crankcase dry.

Next aspect.  Reciprocating mass.  Remember that drain plug?  And how it
weighed like eight pounds when you got it out of drain pan?  (Now
imagine with fresh oil!)  Now think about the engine building process,
ever had one balanced?  Remember what it involved, and ~why~ it was
done?  To keep the reciprocating assembly running perfectly smooth.  You
know how much of a difference one ounce will make on a tire, Same goes
on an engine.  You get that thing perfectly balanced, and it just
sings.  

So lets put it all together here.  We have a perfectly balanced 350
(assume).  We can even paint the inside of the block.  We get 'er up
around 5 grand, with 45 psi of oil.  It's cranking out great, spurting
and splashing everywhere.  It's draining back as fast as it flies up. 
It's splashing as it flies back into the oil pan off of the crank.  It's
dripping right back onto the crank and rods.  It should be pretty easy
to see the crank fairly coverred with oil, right?  Where should it go? 
If it stays on the crank, it'll gather on the throws and weigh it down. 
All that balancing work, just to lose it from the oil?  It doesn't take
much.  Any physics pros out there care to guess at how much 1/8oz. 4
inches out from a crank at 5600RPM is going to affect
performance/balance/smoothness?

Granted, this is all theoretical.  Different grades of oil will yield
much different results, etc.  However, from a theoretical point of view,
doesn't it make perfect sense to run one of these?  It's often said that
balancing, intakes, exhaust mods, etc. are for racing only.  Nonsense,
that's just the application that ~requires~ it.  Normal driving
applications will benefit in drivability, smoothness, overall
performance, economy, ~and~ emissions, in some instances.

You get the picture, this is getting ~really~ long.  I've still got a
P.O.S. F*rd to put a remote starter in tonight, so I'd best get on
it...  



	    Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
		http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
		        Sidney Montana

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 07:54:41 -0500
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@mail.cvn.net>
Subject: Re: Trunk Floors

To Robert Barry :

I need left side trunk floor for 1966 442. You give
name of supplier as Classic Reproductions in Ohio.
Any more info on them, distributor, and price would 
be most helpful. Catalog?

Ken Swick     450 Willow Lane York Springs PA 17372

70 Chev PU 4 wd
66 Olds 442 Post Coupe
69 Olds Cutlass S (now in engine rebuild) 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 07:57:11 -0500
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@mail.cvn.net>
Subject: Re: U.S. Auto Body

How do I get a hold of U.S. Auto Body?
Do they supply parts for 66 442, 69 Cultlass S

Do you have an E-Mail address or phone number.
I am in need of reliable supplier.

Thanks much : Ken Swick
 

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1070
*********************************

