
oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, January 13 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1054



Re: Oh BTW
NEEDED: 1964 Olds Rear Valiance
Re: Rear Side Markers
coolant resevoir
Re: Quadrajet logo
Re: '55 Starfire Model
Re: 455 head gasket replacement
Re: duel gate installation
Re: 455 head gasket replacement
Re: Info request
Re: New Guy with some ?'s on 71 442
RE: High Heater problems
Re: New Motor Problems
QUADRAJET logo
Re: Air shocks
Re: TH350 Swap
Stall problems
Re: Brake Lights won't work 84 H/O
Re[2]: Painting kick panels
Re: 455 head gasket replacement
Re: Info request
Re: Painting kick panels
FYI: K&N Part Number
Re: PATTON
Re: Brake Lights won't work 84 H/O
Re: New Motor Problems
Re: coolant resevoir
Big Car Rear Sway Bar 
Big Car Brakes
Re: main seal replacement
DELETE
Re: Info request
Re: NEEDED: 1964 Olds Rear Valiance
69 4-door gas tank/frame compatibility w/conv
Back for Now
1970 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
Re: Big Car Rear Sway Bar
Re: Ram Air in the Rain/68 W30 Carb
Re: 1970 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
Re: Big Car Rear Sway Bar
Re: Info request
Bleeding Brakes
Re: Brake Lights won't work 84 H/O
Re: Wanted: 69' 442 Cruise Control Transducer
Re: A-Body Disk Brakes
Re: Back for Now
Re: Info request
Re: Bleeding Brakes
Re: Bleeding Brakes
wtd: 71 Cs conv. doors
Re: coolant resevoir
Re: 455 head gasket replacement
Re: Info request
engine stutter, and anifreeze smell

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 11:48:17 -0800
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Oh BTW

Scott Barielle wrote:
> 
> I have a different problem which is related on my '68 Delmont 88. The

When I saw this reference to a 68 Delmont 88, I recalled a couple of
months ago a 68 Delmont in my local junk yard.  I grabbed all of the
knobs so that I can use them in my 68 442 SC.  Look alot better I 
think (stainless versus plastic)

Later....

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 14:43:39 +0000
From: "Rick" <Richardc@equitrac.com>
Subject: NEEDED: 1964 Olds Rear Valiance

I need a Rear Valance for a 1964 Olds 442/Cutlass. I was hit from 
behind and they can not take the dent out because it will look 
terrible. Any one that can help would make my sleep at night A little 
better.
1964 Olds 442 F-85
Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 14:54:16 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Side Markers

- -----Original Message-----
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, January 12, 1998 12:28 PM
Subject: Re: Rear Side Markers



>    The front of the lense has "SAE P1 68" on the right side of the
rocket
>         and "GUIDE 33" on the left side of the rocket and in the
center is


My 69 has the same markings on the lens. There is no way to tell if
they are the original units though.

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S convertible
OCA# 29770
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 15:25:50 -0500
From: Darren King <dking@Legato.COM>
Subject: coolant resevoir

I am having a problem with coolant.  If I fill the resevoir, it goes 
real quick...so I stopped that.  If I fill it at the rad, it's better
but it still get's used up.  The problem is that the @#$% "collant low"
light (and very annoying bell) goes off all the time on my 86 Custom
Cruiser.  

Is the "coolant low" detector connected to the plastic resevoir, or the
rad?  What can I do to stop the light from going off?

thanks,

Darren King

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 15:37:22 +0000
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Quadrajet logo

Jerry Christopher wrote:
> 
> My 87 Q-Jet has a logo on the side, and, yes I took pics, but
> unfortunately, the logo and the carb are the same color, so I can't help
> <G>...  I was trying to do the same thing you are thinking...
> --
> - Jerry Christopher
> - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
> - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
> - Here we go Steelers!!!

Well, I decided to make my own, it looks pretty close. If you want a
copy I'll send it to you.

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 15:38:30 +0000
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: '55 Starfire Model

Kurt Heinrich wrote:
> 
> Hit the local Toys-R-Us today and found a Road Champs 1/43 scale model
> (5" long) of a '55 Starfire convertible.  The car is a two tone orange
> and cream.  The interior detail is lacking, but the exterior detail is
> quite good for an $8 model.  It even comes with a billboard of the car
> in a display case.

Heh, got it for Christmas! Good model!

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 15:44:35 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 455 head gasket replacement

>Hi I've got a 1969 sport coupe 442 (the one with the vinly top) and 
>i'ive also got a 1972 455 in her.
>	My problem is this while street racing I over reved and blew
>both head gaskets. I have some mechanical skill but lack experience
[snip of part already well answered before]
>	(2) I know I must drain the coolant but should I drain the oil 
>as well before putting the gaskets in ?

No, wait until *after* you finish the job, and then change the oil. That
way any crud or antifreeze that will have leaked into the valley pan can be
drained out.

>	(3) when removing the head do I have to loosen or remove the 
>rocker to releive pressure on the push rods or do I just un bolt the 
>head.

Well, you'll have to remove the rockers to reinstall the head, so you may
as well do it before taking the head off. That also allows you to remove
the pushrods in an orderly fashion, rather than playing "pick up sticks"
with them afterwards...

>	(4) When I put the head back into place do I have to adjust the 
>rocker arms at all... (this is my biggest question )..

No, but when you tighten the rocker bolts down, make sure that the rockers
are lined up; depending on what setup you have, you can crack or bend the
rocker pedestals/bridge.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 15:51:05 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: duel gate installation

>im installing a 71 duel gate shifter in a 70 cutlass supreme with the
>original 350 turbo trans, and console shifter. i can install the console
>without any difficulty. here are my questions ?
>
>1. has any one used a stock 70 neutral safety switch with 71 duel gate ?

No, but you might try installing a '71 switch on the column of your '70, if
all else fails. The backdrive linkage would operate it (that's what they
did with the late '70 cars anyway).

>2. there are no holes in the floor to bolt the front of the shifter the 
>rear hols line up. is there a template availble so i can drill the
>needed holes ?

Hmmm, I'd think the shifter bracket itself would be the best template.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 16:01:26 -0500
From: controlz <controlz@bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: 455 head gasket replacement

Markintime wrote:
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> I'm not sure the copper head gaskets are such a good choice in this case. If
> it was me I'd go with a good permatorque head gasket instead.  Having said


Where can I get these.. And what is the stock head gasket thickness ?

> 3. Replace the valve cover gaskets, nows the best time to do it.

Again where can I get these ?
And the intake manifold gaskets ?

> 5. Finally valve adjustment, if you're running stock Old's rockers the
> adjustment is a no brainer because there is no adjustment on those rockers.
> The valve train geometry is set by the factory tolerances of the engine.
> Providing the engine is to spec, the lifters will have the appropriate preload
> when reassembled.  This is another reason I discourage using copper head
> gaskets, try to stay as close to factory thickness as possible.
> 
> 6. After the engine is back together and has been run for 30 to 60 minutes,
> retorque the heads. 
According to a book I got outa the library today it says when placing 
the rockers back onto the head to tighten them till the pushrod is tight
where it cant rotate unless you use alot of force.. Then to tighted the
rocker bolt one full turn. (It says this places the hydralic lifters at 
center ?)

It sounds about right.. What if I wanted to upgrade my rockers.. I think 
 someone told me olds motors came with 6:1 rockers.. I see sets of 
roller rockers with 7:1. Should I get them ? How much more difficult are 
they to install.. Or should I wait till I get aluminum heads (which is 
gonna be about 9 months from now)

Oh one more thing.. about the vallypan.. does that need to be messed 
with ?

- -bob @ controlz@bellatlantic.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 15:48:04 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Info request

>I was pulling off the passenger side door panel from my 68 SC and out
>popped this huge spring (4-5" long) (Keep it clean boys! ;-)  What 
>purpose does it have in the door?  The driver's side didn't even have
>one.

Ah, the rare A64 "Jack-in-the-Box" upholstery option...

No, I have *no* idea what that might be from; is it heavy-guage, or a
relatively light wire? Sounds like it might be a door hinge spring; maybe
an assembly line worker put it in there by mistake? (first day on the job
and all that?)
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 15:40:26 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: New Guy with some ?'s on 71 442

>I just bought my first Oldsmobile.  A 71 442 conv that looks exactly like the
 [snip]
>2.  I noticed that when I drive back from the show at night the lights
tend to
>fade and brighten as I drive.  All lights from the head lights to the dash
>lights are doing this.  Any idea what would cause this?  Any help would be
>appreciated. 

If this varies with engine speed, your alternator may be getting weak (or
it may just be the connections). If the they are brightening and dimming
unrelated to engine speed, it sounds like your voltage regulator is not
giving steady output. Were internally-regulated alternators standard on the
442's in '71? In either case, replace the alternator and/or regulator.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 15:34:07 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: RE: High Heater problems

>I have a different problem which is related on my '68 Delmont 88. The

Just for the record; I'm envious of that L-32 88 you've got there... ;)

>blower fan stuck on high one night, and continued blowing with the
 [snip]
>There is an aluminum multiwire lead on the drivers' side of the firewall
>with some melting evident. Can anyone give me some direction?

I'd say that your HI-speed blower relay is stuck open, causing the (+) wire
to send power to the blower full-time (since the 10ga(+) wire to the blower
relay is hot all the time, the blower will run all the time when this relay
sticks, even when the ignition is off). I'd bet that replacing the relay
will solve your problem; a good parts store should still be able to get
this relay for you; maybe about $15.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 15:58:19 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: New Motor Problems

>Ok, I've *FINALLY* got the new motor in my '71 CS....   now
 [snip]

Glad to see it's finally together; how does it run at WOT? :)

>The problems:
>
>1.   Poor idle.   Idles roughly, almost dies when dropped in gear.
>	In-gear idle drops to about 800 rpm and idles like a bad
>	vacuum leak.   About 12-13" vacuum at 1000 rpm idle.

Hmmm, where's your timing at? Can you time it by a vacuum guage to make it
better? Does disconnecting the vacuum advance have any effect?

>2.   Lifter noise that won't go away - I've tried lash settings from 1/4
>	turn down to 3/4 turn down and it's still there.   Not on all 
>	cylinders, but I can't really narrow it down to just one.

Hmmm, usually you'll get lifter noise before they pump themselves up. Did
you prime them before you installed them?

>   My next move will be to swap the old cast-iron intake back on since 
>I've never run this intake on a motor before and it was a used intake.
>I did put a small bead of RVT around each port, but there's nothing to
>say it doesn't have a internal leak.

Did you put the RTV around the intake ports as well? That might be your
problem; if there was any inconsistency or gap there, you could have sucked
some in. I'd try resealing the intake with some spray-on or brush-on gasket
tack around the intake ports, and look for evidence of the RTV you put on
there being a problem.

Also try a different carb (you've got some spares, I know...).
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 16:09:42 +0000
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: QUADRAJET logo

Never mind, I made one. For those of you who always wanted one, the link
is on my page!

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 16:24:15 -0500 (EST)
From: The Sugarmans <sugarman@berkshire.net>
Subject: Re: Air shocks

On Mon, 12 Jan 1998, AARONLIFE wrote:

> There's a large air compressor mounted on the front ride side of the car where
> the battery would be if it were on the passenger side.  I've always wondered
> if this was original equipment/air shocks, or aftermarket.
> 
> aaron
> 
It looks original



sugarman@berkshire.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 12:12:05 -0800
From: "mr. coy d. arbogast" <coyster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: TH350 Swap

Hi There.
We just did the conversion in a 68 olds cutlass
We went from the teo speed turbine 300 to a turbo 350 and everything is the
same. Mounts, spline and driveshaft length.
What we did was take the cam specs and tire size to the trans shop along
with the current gear ratio and had a convertor and trans built to match
the car and engine specs.
We did not want the car to fall on it's face but yet still wanted mileage
and performance.
The Cost total was $379.00
Results...Excelllent.... car pulls hard and straight and cruses in town
very nice.
Have Fun
Rocket

- ----------
> From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: TH350 Swap
> Date: Monday, January 12, 1998 9:23 AM
> 
> 
> Tom,
> 
> I recently pulled my TH 400 out of my 68 442 and was surprised how easy
it
> really was! The biggest hurdle I had was getting the car high enough to
> roll the trans out!
> 
> Plan on replacing the rear mount if you hadn't already planned to in the
> swap...I would imagen the 2 speed mount is different from the TH350. My
> local Trans shop rebuilt mine with a shift kit and a new converter for
$375
> cash & carry.
> 
> >This week is going to be the big endeavor of switching transmissions in
> >my 68 Cutlass. I going to replace the 2 speed with the TH350. However, I
> >need some input.
> 
> Scott Wheeler
> 68 442 Conv
> Dallas
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 16:36:23 +0000
From: "Joe Gerschutz" <gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu>
Subject: Stall problems

My severly jury-rigged newly-aquired 82 Cutlass tends to stall out 
several times until it warms up when first started.  After I drive it 
a while it runs fine.  Could this be due to some vacuum leak or 
seomthing like that?  Any suggestions would be appreciated.  Thanks.

Joe



- --------------------------------------------------
- ---Joe Gerschutz------------------------------
- ---University of Dayton----------------------
- ---gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu--------
- --------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 16:36:23 +0000
From: "Joe Gerschutz" <gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu>
Subject: Re: Brake Lights won't work 84 H/O

I had that same problem on my 82.  It turned out to be those leads 
you talked about into the brake switch.  I did the same thing, check 
the fuses, bulbs, hazards, turn signals, brake switch, everything.  
It turned out to be the connection between the dbl. white and orange 
leads to the switch, not the switch itself.  It was just a bad 
connection and I am going to soder them this weekend.  Thats just 
what worked for me.  I also had heard the lights went through the 
turn, but I'm not sure where.

Joe

P.S.  I don't think my cruise is working either so if you figure that 
out (and it has to do with the switch) let me know.


From:          oldsmobile-digest-owner@chebucto.ns.ca 
(oldsmobile-digest) To:            oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:       oldsmobile-digest V1 #1053
Reply-to:      oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Date:          Mon, 12 Jan 1998 15:31:05 -0400

Steering column was recently replaced due to the theft of the vehicle.  I'm
not familiar with the wiring in the column.  I'm going to assume that the
shop that did the repairs just over looked testing the stop lights.  I live
over a hundred miles away from where the insurance repairs were performed
and it would probably cost me more to go back and complain.

Fuse is good
All bulbs are good.
Hazard lights work
Turn signals work
Stop light switch has been replaced.


There are two connectors attached to the stoplight switch.  Per my chilton's
manual one is for the stop lights and the other is to cancel the cruise
control ( it is not working either but I'll save that for another day)

The stop light connector has  Orange and White leads.  There is 13.0v+-
coming off of the orange lead the diagram I have show this to be the hot at
all times.  The white is a mystery to me I used my multimeter on the
connector to check the circuit.  its open!    My wiring diagram show that
this wire goes into the Turn/Hazard switch (Where is this located at?).
What should I do next to fix this problem any help you can give will help.



- --------------------------------------------------
- ---Joe Gerschutz------------------------------
- ---University of Dayton----------------------
- ---gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu--------
- --------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 98 15:02:02 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: Painting kick panels

Greg Beaulieu wrote:

You clean and prep the parts very well and then spray the dye....
     
     Amen to that.  One cannot stress enough the need to meticulously clean 
     these parts prior to dyeing.  Use an old toothbrush to completely 
     scrub out the lines in the grain of the vinyl.  In addition, the paint 
     supply house should also sell a vinyl etchant which should be used 
     before the dye.  I used this process on a dash pad for my old truck 
     (it was blue and my interior was gold).  I thoroughly scrubbed the 
     pad, applied the etch, then sprayed the dye.  The part came out great 
     and the dye never peeled for the several years that I owned the truck. 
     It was also relatively abrasion resistant, however I'd expect kick 
     panels to take a little more abuse and thus would expect some scrapes 
     to show in the paint over time.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30
     

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 98 15:49:16 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: 455 head gasket replacement

Bob wrote:

        ...My problem is this while street racing I over reved and blew
both head gaskets.

     I'm somewhat confused as to how overrevving can blow the head 
     gaskets.  What indications do you have of the bad gaskets, 
     coolant in the oil, for example?
     
     If you've lost compression, I'd check for bent valves.  Of 
     course, that _still_ means the heads have to come off...

 I have some mechanical skill but lack experience I plan on getting 
the miloden copper head gaskets, but I have a few questions.
     
        (1) What other gaskets will I need (head gaskets, vavle cover, 
intake manifold, vallypan , anyothers ?????)

     Get a valve grind gasket set, which will have all the gaskets you need.
     
        (2) I know I must drain the coolant but should I drain the oil 
as well before putting the gaskets in ?
     
     Nope, just the coolant.
     
        (3) when removing the head do I have to loosen or remove the 
rocker to releive pressure on the push rods or do I just un bolt the 
head.
     
     It will certainly make life easier if you remove the rockers  and 
     pushrods first.  Now that I think about it, you probably can't get the 
     driver's side head off with the pushrods still in place due to the 
     power brake booster.  Keep all the parts in the same order so they can 
     be put back in the same locations they came out of (ie, number one 
     cylinder intake pushrod and rocker should go back as a set and in the 
     original location - this is due to the fact that these parts "wear in" 
     with each other).
     
        (4) When I put the head back into place do I have to adjust the 
rocker arms at all... (this is my biggest question )..
     
     Unless you have aftermarket rockers or pushrods, you _can't_ adjust 
     them without resorting to non-original shimming.  This would be a good 
     idea, but isn't required if the compressed thickness of the new head 
     gaskets matches that of the old.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 17:08:30 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Info request

> >I was pulling off the passenger side door panel from my 68 SC and out
> >popped this huge spring (4-5" long)
> 
> Ah, the rare A64 "Jack-in-the-Box" upholstery option...
> 
> No, I have *no* idea what that might be from; is it heavy-guage, or a
> relatively light wire?

Here's a guess.  Could it be an "old" vent window spring?  The one that
keeps tension from the bottom.  Maybe the stem broke at some point, and
when they replaced the unit, they didn't get all the pieces out???

Just fishing,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 17:25:36 -0500
From: "Paul L. Fikaris" <fikaris@en.com>
Subject: Re: Painting kick panels

You wrote:
> 
>  I'm repainting kickpanels and armrest
> plastic out of another colored car to the gold interior of mine. 
>        

This is really weird. I recently purchased a 69 Delta 88 Conv with a beige
interior which is mint aside from the faded kick panels and wasted
armrests. If you find paint and try it, I'd like to know how this turns
out. The kick panels are salvagable on my car, but maybe not the armrests.
Seems like someone took a high-powered solvent to them. If I find out
anything in my travels, I'll let you know as well. I have to check what the
factory color of my interior is, I always say beige, but I think its gold.
My car is colored Topaz, which is basically gold.

Thanks

Paul Fikaris
69 Delta 88 Conv 455

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 17:16:24 EST
From: JMakhl9671 <JMakhl9671@aol.com>
Subject: FYI: K&N Part Number

For those that didn't know, the part number for the W-41 Q4 K&N aftermarket
filter is #33-2022.  I got mine from an independent auto parts store here in
Michigan for $36.00.  And don't be alarmed when you see that it fits the 3.8L
V6, and says nothing about the Q4.  It fits your rocket as well.



Cheers, 
Joe Mack
'93 W41, Hypertech, Mobil 1, K&N

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 17:28:25 -0500
From: "Paul L. Fikaris" <fikaris@en.com>
Subject: Re: PATTON

No bastard ever won a war by dying for his country...
I saw it, an all time classic!
- ----------
> From: Patton <patton@ComCAT.COM>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: PATTON
> Date: Saturday, January 10, 1998 5:37 PM
> 
> List,
> 	Is anyone watching American Movie Classic this afternoon ? If not,
please
> tune in....
> 
> 
> 				The General

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 16:42:47 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Lights won't work 84 H/O

> Given the following information what should I do next.

Sell!  (To me!  :-)

> Steering column was recently replaced due to the theft 
> of the vehicle.

So noted...

> I'm not familiar with the wiring in the column.

If this was a typical Chicago Slide theft, I assume they
busted up the pot-metal bowl for the column and left the
wiring alone. But the repair guys might have screwed something
up in the course of replacing the hardware.

> Fuse is good
> All bulbs are good.
> Hazard lights work
> Turn signals work
> Stop light switch has been replaced.

Point of interest: With the hazard lights blinking, do they
_stay_ on when you press on the brake? They should, and then
resume blinking when you take your foot off the pedal. I 
assume yours continue blinking, though.

> The stop light connector has  Orange and White leads. 
> There is 13.0v+ coming off of the orange lead the 
> diagram I have show this to be the hot at all times.

Correct...

> The white is a mystery to me I used my multimeter on 
> the connector to check the circuit.  its open!

It shouldn't be. Jumpering orange to white should make
your brake lights go on. (While you are upside down under
the dashboard, test the contacts on the brake light switch
to verify that they close when the brake pedal is pressed.
It'll probably test out fine.)

> My wiring diagram show that this wire goes into the 
> Turn/Hazard switch (Where is this located at?).

The base of your turn signal lever: it's a white (nylon?)
ring-shaped switch which encircles the steering column
inside. The 4-way flasher plunger on the other side of the
column is also part of this switch. You'll need a steering
wheel puller and a lock plate compressor to gain access to
the switch for replacement (if it needs it).

> What should I do next to fix this problem any help you 
> can give will help.

Okay, that white wire is supposed to go up the column to
feed the turn/hazard switch. Apparently it doesn't. You
could check the big multi-wire connector at the base of
the steering column under the dash, where the column
harness connects to the dash harness, but it sounds more
like the white wire has been pinched inside the column
somewhere and surgery is needed. Trace the wire as far
as you can; it should head from the brake switch to the
steering column I _think_, so if it's intact as far as
you can see, your problem may be inside the column wiring.
A replacement turn signal switch will come with a new
column wiring harness.
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 05:41:37 -0500
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: New Motor Problems

At 03:58 PM 1/12/98 -0500, you wrote:

>Glad to see it's finally together; how does it run at WOT? :)

   I was just joking "runs great - doesn't idle!".   Breaks'em free at 1/2
throttle.  ;^)

>Hmmm, where's your timing at? Can you time it by a vacuum guage to make it
>better? Does disconnecting the vacuum advance have any effect?

    Forgot to put this in.   Runs better with LOTS (18-20 BTDC) of timing,
but still not quite right.    Disconnecting the vacuum advance has no
effect.     Watching the timing mark with a t-light shows normal, smooth
operation of both vacuum and mechanical advance.   I checked the chain
alignment three times, and had it verifyed by two other sets of eyes so it
SHOULD be right.  ;^)

>>2.   Lifter noise that won't go away - I've tried lash settings from 1/4

>Hmmm, usually you'll get lifter noise before they pump themselves up. Did
>you prime them before you installed them?

   Agreed.  I've got 2 hours of run time on the motor and it's still there.
 No I didn't prime them, but I did preoil the motor and they seemed to have
pumped up just fine.

>Did you put the RTV around the intake ports as well? That might be your
>problem; if there was any inconsistency or gap there, you could have sucked

    Thin, even coat of liquid RTV blue.   Intake dried for 2 days before
running, so I doubt it sucked any in.   Spraying ether near the carb base
and all around the intake didn't show any leaks (no rpm change).

>Also try a different carb (you've got some spares, I know...).

   Already swapped out the Quadrabog for a AFB.  Slight idle improvement,
but nothing signifigant.

   I think I'll also do a compression test... might tell me if I've got a
valve stuck or something else.

__________________________________________________________
>Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

- --> Bob Valentine
- --> ravalent@liii.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 19:08:49 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: coolant resevoir

Well, I used to think I was the all-time champ when it came to losing 
coolant on my Delta until I heard your story. At least I could tell where 
mine ended up: the driveway, the road, wherever. I was always mopping the 
stuff up to try and save the neighborhood cats. Do you have any idea 
where it's going in your case?

The sensor is on the rad. Look for a wire going to the top passenger side 
of the rad tank, that's your sensor. I'm intrigued that you say it 
disappears quicker from the reservoir than from the rad itself. Is it 
possible that the reservoir has a crack in it? If it's empty and the rad 
is nearly full, it'll only leak out once the coolant gets hot, expands 
and goes into the reservoir. Otherwise I'd suspect a head gasket or 
intake gasket problem if there are no obvious leaks. Better get it fixed 
though, sooner or later a coolant leak will leave you stranded.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 15:49:24 -0800
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Big Car Rear Sway Bar 

>I've seen a lot of rear sway bars for sale on the list. Do any other full
>size Olds owners know what rear sway bar from a 442 would fit my 65 Ninety
>Eight?

Nick,
I am running a sway bar on my 66 98, but have good news and bad news. Good
news is I got mine 10(?) years ago
from a company called "Addco" in FLA. I think they still advetise in
Chev*craft or other Peterson publications. The
bar substantially flattens my big, big car in the corners. It clearly
improves the handling, making it as good as it
can be. 

Bad news is these bars add stress to already 30 year old parts and can
cause your suspension members to 
break. I lost a lower (trailing) arm on my rear axle Xmas day a few years
back, due to the stresses put on by
the bar which had been improperly installed. Basically the shop bolted the
bar right onto the lower arms instead
of to an "ear" which should be bolted to the arms. Lack of an "ear" which
hangs down from the trailing arm bent, 
and eventually broke, one of the arms. Not a happy sound. 

When reinstalled, a different shop realized what the problem was, and
fabricated some pieces of steel (the "ears")
to relieve the trailing arms of stress associated with direct bolt-on of
the sway bar. This has worked fine for years,
but I recently had the suspension looked at again and the mechanic said
he'd welded up a crack which was
developing in one of the rear suspension arms. 

So now I'm suspicious again of this piece and have recently pulled 4 good
boneyard suspension members to
replace the ones that are on there now. I will have them magnafluxed to
check for cracks, but am also considering
having them boxed to increase strength. 

I'm pretty damn sure that A body sway bars won't fit the big cars, the
axles are different widths I think. A C*addy or other 
C body one might, if they made 'em.

Overall, I love the suspension improvement, but am not sure it's worth the
worry about cracks on already old metal.

Hope this helps.
cf


Christian Fair

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 15:55:06 -0800
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Big Car Brakes

Nick,
Brake drums for the 65-66 big cars are very hard to come by, particularly
the fronts. Let 
me know what you find. I bought some NOS rear drums from Fusick last year.
A little costly,
but he had 'em. And they were new, not turned. Didn't look into the fronts
since I have disks
now.  I'm pretty sure they don't swap with much, since the big cars went to
disks in 69 or 
70 and different disks in 71. 

I could be persuaded to part with my front drums as they are still good. I
kept everything
between the A-Arms  -- spindles,drums, shoes, etc. I would guess the
shipping to be a lot. This 
is heavy stuff. 

Hope this helps. 
cf

>The brake drums on my Ninety Eight are eventually going to wear down. Does
>anyone know of some later model drums that will fit the front, and the
>back. I'm trying to match some up in the books at work, but I'm not sure
>what might work. I'd like to get some finned aluminum drums, these cast
>iron jobs are so heavy and big, I imagine I could run on railroad tracks
>with them.

Christian Fair

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 19:10:45 -0500
From: loris <loris@tir.com>
Subject: Re: main seal replacement

Chris Brown Witt wrote:
> 
> Do you mean on the 307's? Whatever the case, there's a technique for
> removing an upper rope-type seal with the crank in place; never had the
> pleasure of trying it, though.  Bob Barry
> ==============
> Yeah, it's called "use the rubber replacement seal." Why in the world would
> anyone dork around with that half-assed rope seal arrangement when all you need
> do is obtain the correct size rubber part?
> --
> Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
> *the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
>          >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

Chris:

I've been meaning to ask this question for a while:  where can I get the
correct sized rubber seal for a 350?  I'm pissed that even though I
replaced mine it still leaks.

- -Loris

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 19:21:50 EST
From: Boaz32 <Boaz32@aol.com>
Subject: DELETE

DON'T GIVE THIS SITE YOU E-MAIL ADDRESS!!!!!

THEY NEVER, NEVER REMOVE YOUR NAME...EVEN WHEN YOU REQUEST THEM TO DO SO
SEVERAL TIMES!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 18:22:16 -0600
From: Eric & Rosi & Jonathon <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Info request

Spring on Door:
All right, to the best of my knowledge, these springs and Cam-type
roller assembly on the door hinge are to have the door sit comfortably
wide-open or closed.  You'll notice on most doors when you open them,
there's a tight push, then they relax in the open position.  There is
this spring and a roller-cam system that accomplishes this.  Otherwise,
holding the door open to impress dates (I do NOT follow this policy) on
the slightes slope would be a full-time job!!!

AM I RIGHT???

(I really am just guessing)

mrada wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I was pulling off the passenger side door panel from my 68 SC and out
> popped this huge spring (4-5" long) (Keep it clean boys! ;-)  What
> purpose does it have in the door?  The driver's side didn't even have
> one.
> 
> Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 20:00:21 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: NEEDED: 1964 Olds Rear Valiance

In a message dated 98-01-12 15:05:47 EST, you write:

<< I was hit from 
 behind  >>

This seems to be going around.

aaron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 20:08:23 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: 69 4-door gas tank/frame compatibility w/conv

It's a little late to ask this question,

but according to the book i read at the junk yard, the gas tank from the 69 4
door was interchangeable with the tank on the 2-door, is this true?  out of
the car, the filler neck looks longer, but $30 didn't seem bad, it's like new

also, per body shop's request i had the back-end of the frame cut off, from in
front of the gas tank back (mine's too rusty to save/too weak).  it looks a
little different, but is it usuable? 

aaron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 20:25:10 -0500
From: "Jason K. Adcock" <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Back for Now

Hi, everyone.  I hope everyone had a good holiday season.  Things are back
to normal now (I'm back on the real-time version of the list...).

I said I was going to replace the EGR valve over break and report my
results.  I guess I'll say I'm happy.  I think I've reported before, but I
haven't had ANY pinging or knocking, so I firmly believe that the EGR valve
fixed that.  However, the motor STILL runs warmer than I think it should. 
Oh well.

At the end, of course, I have a question.  8-)  I have very squeaky
somethings in the front end.  I can't believe it's the bushings (PST
polyurethane), but it's an awful lot of squeaking to be just body work. 
Does anyone have any experience with fixing squeaky body work, esp. in the
front of the car?  Also, these bushings are supposed to be impregnated
(correct usage?) with lubricant as to reduce the squeaking, but they squeak
(and squawk!) when hit with a sharp dip in the road.  Is there anyway to
simply grease these things without taking them out?  I'm sure coating the
bushing area with grease won't make any difference.  Any ideas?

It's SURE good to be back from that digest version.  I still have
half-a-dozen or so digests I didn't get to whilst moving back in to school
here.

Thanks for any input...
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 15:45:36 -0500
From: "James Meeks" <jimmeeks@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: 1970 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

Anyone know where I can get information on how to "adjust" the convt top
frame on this car?  I had a glass shop align the windows and all but he
could not get the top and the rear part of the quarterglass to seal...I'm in
Daytona Beach and no one is willing or knows how to do any adjustments so
maybe I can get it to seal correctly.

Jim
jimmeeks@worldnet.att.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 19:34:15 -0600 (CST)
From: Bryceman <bryceman@442.com>
Subject: Re: Big Car Rear Sway Bar

>>I've seen a lot of rear sway bars for sale on the list. Do any other full
>>size Olds owners know what rear sway bar from a 442 would fit my 65 Ninety
>>Eight?

My '66 88 Apprehender has factory rear sway bar and boxed lower trailing
arms. Please note the lower arms are _Boxed_ from the factory just like on
a 442. I wouldnt advise using a rear sway bar without the boxed arms.
Non-factory sway bar cars have hollow lower arms shaped like an inverted
'U'. The factory boxed arms have 1/4 inch plate welded on bottom to close
the 'U' plus ribs that extend up into the cavity of the arm to prevent it
from crushing under load. I think it would be no problem to have a good
welding shop make these modifications to your bars. Would be great if you
could show them a 442 boxed arm to go by.

PST catalog lists a sway bar for Olds full-size and says it fits 1965-'92
rear wheel drive. They dont list any boxed arms, however. Their phone and
address are listed under parts sources area of my web site.
I am sure I saw boxed arms listed in the Addco catalog for Olds full-size
but I cant find that catalog to double check. Dont have the phone # handy
either. Their web site is  http://www.addcoindustries.com/
Hotchkiss may have a solution also.

Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Oldsmobiles!
'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender
'65 442 Post Coupe
'65 Vista Cruiser
'72 H/O Convertible Pace Car Replica
Email: bryceman@442.com  URL: www.442.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 20:39:54 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Ram Air in the Rain/68 W30 Carb

Aaron,

 As mentioned earlier I have the ram air set up on my 69
and although I don't make a habit of driving in the rain , I've
been caught a time or three in some showers while out & about.
I have never had a problem with water getting into carb.
By design the 90 deg. turn of the scoop up thru the wheel tub and
then the length of hose it has to travel you'll not have to worry about
that. 
 As far as the air filter - common sense dictates -- if ya drive down dusty
roads then it'll get dirty faster. I run a K&N filter and usually end up
cleaning
it twice per season.... up here we're lucky to get drivable weather from Apr.
- - Oct.
The K&N is expensive compared to paper elements  but the cost over the
lifetime
is actually lower plus it flows better then paper ones.
  I'm into performance more so this was a no brainer.
 The carb question is your choice.. There is nothing I know of special about
the
factory W30 carb other than it was set up with bigger jetting and I think
possibly
more CFM then the stock Q-jet. Depending on what the W30 carb is going for
you can probably have someone redo your current carb to same specs.
 One thing you'll need to be aware of is that the carb will seem to run fat at
idle if you set it up for max performance at higher speed due to addtl air
being forced into
system .  This is where the fine tuning comes in regarding set up for street
driving
crusing and when you really want to max the power.

Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 21:51:12 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 1970 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

On my '64 convertible I tried adjusting he top frame using the procedures 
outlined in the Fisher Body service manual. It is *extremely* tricky, and 
from my experience it isn't a one-man job. There are a lot of places for 
adjustment and it is pretty easy to throw things out of whack. 

Get the pages out of the body manual as a starting point, I'd suggest.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 21:54:05 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Big Car Rear Sway Bar

<snip re. boxed rear lower control arms)

When I installed the rear bar on the Delta I bought brackets from GM that 
fit inside the inverted-U shaped lower arms. They are held in place with 
4 self-tapping bolts, and the sway bar bolts to the bracket via nuts 
welded onto the bottom, in essence making it a boxed arm. I wonder if these 
would work for models as far back as '66?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 21:04:21 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Info request

Robert Barry wrote:
> 
> >I was pulling off the passenger side door panel from my 68 SC and out
> >popped this huge spring (4-5" long) (Keep it clean boys! ;-)  What
> >purpose does it have in the door?  The driver's side didn't even have
> >one.
> 
> Ah, the rare A64 "Jack-in-the-Box" upholstery option...
> 
> No, I have *no* idea what that might be from; is it heavy-guage, or a
> relatively light wire? Sounds like it might be a door hinge spring; maybe
> an assembly line worker put it in there by mistake? (first day on the job
> and all that?

And the previous owners were wondering what that rattle was............
HEH HEH.  Sounds possible that someone was having a little fun.  :)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 21:27:58 -0500
From: "John Gill" <jgill@idmi.com>
Subject: Bleeding Brakes

It was a relatively nice weekend in my neck of the woods - sunny and in the
40's.  Since the recent rain had cleaned the salt off of the streets, I
decided it was a good time to take my '70 442 out for a ride.  As I backed
out of the drive, the brake pedal went to the floor.  It turns out that a
rear brake cylinder had begun to leak.  I replaced it tonite but it got
dark before I got around to bleeding the brake system.

This brings me to my question:  the master cylinder has two reservoirs.  A
larger one in front (for the front brakes I assume) and a smaller one
nearest the firewall (for the rear - again I assume).  The smaller one in
back was nearly empty of DOT3 fluid but the larger one was still full.  

Do the front brakes need bled or just the rears?  I can't remember where to
start - nearest the master cylinder or furthest from it?

John Gill
Cleveland, OH
jgill@idmi.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 21:33:08 -0500
From: Bill Gochenour <3STICKS@stjohns.edu>
Subject: Re: Brake Lights won't work 84 H/O

Joe Gerschutz wrote:
> 
> I had that same problem on my 82.  It turned out to be those leads
> you talked about into the brake switch.  I did the same thing, check
> the fuses, bulbs, hazards, turn signals, brake switch, everything.
> It turned out to be the connection between the dbl. white and orange
> leads to the switch, not the switch itself.  It was just a bad
> connection and I am going to soder them this weekend.  Thats just
> what worked for me.  I also had heard the lights went through the
> turn, but I'm not sure where.
> 
> Joe
> 
> P.S.  I don't think my cruise is working either so if you figure that
> out (and it has to do with the switch) let me know.
> 
> From:          oldsmobile-digest-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> (oldsmobile-digest) To:            oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:       oldsmobile-digest V1 #1053
> Reply-to:      oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Date:          Mon, 12 Jan 1998 15:31:05 -0400
> 
> Steering column was recently replaced due to the theft of the vehicle.  I'm
> not familiar with the wiring in the column.  I'm going to assume that the
> shop that did the repairs just over looked testing the stop lights.  I live
> over a hundred miles away from where the insurance repairs were performed
> and it would probably cost me more to go back and complain.
> 
> Fuse is good
> All bulbs are good.
> Hazard lights work
> Turn signals work
> Stop light switch has been replaced.
> 
> There are two connectors attached to the stoplight switch.  Per my chilton's
> manual one is for the stop lights and the other is to cancel the cruise
> control ( it is not working either but I'll save that for another day)
> 
> The stop light connector has  Orange and White leads.  There is 13.0v+-
> coming off of the orange lead the diagram I have show this to be the hot at
> all times.  The white is a mystery to me I used my multimeter on the
> connector to check the circuit.  its open!    My wiring diagram show that
> this wire goes into the Turn/Hazard switch (Where is this located at?).
> What should I do next to fix this problem any help you can give will help.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> ---Joe Gerschutz------------------------------
> ---University of Dayton----------------------
> ---gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu--------
> --------------------------------------------------


The directional/hazard swithch is in the steering column behind the
wheel and tilt locking plate. Have you tried by-passing the swithch
completely by jumping the orange wire directly to the white on the brake
light switch? If you do this and it still doesn't light, the problem is
between the brake light switch and the directional/hazard switch in the
column, or, the switch itself. 

Just about all the lighting circuits go through the column switch. The
reason for this is, you need the ability to get both left and right tail
lights to operate seperate as directionals and together as brake lights.
Also, both the front and rear directionals to operate together as
hazards. The directional/hazard switch physically bridges them together,
when not signaling or using the hazards, then seperates the bridged
connection when using the directionals. Maybe, when they repaired the
column, missed a danaged wire or the never checked the
directional/hazard switch assembly.

If you plan on troubleshooting or replacing the directional/hazard
switch assembly youself you'll need two special tools, a steering wheel
puller, and a lock plate compressor. Both are cheap and available at any
Sears or auto parts store. I bought the plate compressor at Sears for
about $20.00, the best $20.00 I've spent in along time. Once you use it,
you'll see what I mean ! If you need further info. e-mail me on the
side, I'll give you a play-by-play.

Good Luck !

- ---------- 
                                                     
Bill !                                         

1986 442 "The Perfect 10"                     _           _       ___
     Mobile Electronics Show Car            /  |        /  |    /  _  \ 
1983 Hurst/Olds 15th Anniversary Edition  /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
     100th Centennial Celebration #2218 /  / | |_   /  / | |_      /  / 
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z-34             |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__ 
1993 Oldsmobile Bravada 4x4	             |_|         |_|   |_______|
1997 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Z-34 

		* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
		* Comming Soon----->3STICKS.com *
		* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

        http://area51.stjohns.edu/~toychest     (updated 1/11/98)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 21:42:25 EST
From: Mr57olds <Mr57olds@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted: 69' 442 Cruise Control Transducer

In a message dated 98-01-12 14:15:38 EST, you write:

<< I have cruise control on my 69 442 conv as well, and I've never known how
to
 hook it up.  It appears to have been disconnected decades ago (i've had it
 over 12 years), but it has speedo cables.  how does this thing work, i'm
 clueless! >>
Do you know what type is on the '69???   If it is Perfect Circle I have
transducers, or as Perfect Circle called them regulators.  I also can get a
wiring diagram.   The hardest part to find will likely be the vacumn diaphram
that hooks to accellerator linkage.  I have installed and trouble shot several
in past.  I will help if I can.
Mr57olds

'54 olds
'57 olds
'64 442
'98 intrigue

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 21:45:05 EST
From: EDZX6 <EDZX6@aol.com>
Subject: Re: A-Body Disk Brakes

and I got a 72 cutlass conv with all drums also....

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 20:50:41 -0600
From: senator@itis.com (Robert F. Newbegin Jr.)
Subject: Re: Back for Now

Jason Adcock writes:

>snip<

>At the end, of course, I have a question.  8-)  I have very squeaky
>somethings in the front end.  I can't believe it's the bushings (PST
>polyurethane), but it's an awful lot of squeaking to be just body work.
>Does anyone have any experience with fixing squeaky body work, esp. in the
>front of the car?  Also, these bushings are supposed to be impregnated
>(correct usage?) with lubricant as to reduce the squeaking, but they squeak
>(and squawk!) when hit with a sharp dip in the road.  Is there anyway to
>simply grease these things without taking them out?  I'm sure coating the
>bushing area with grease won't make any difference.  Any ideas?
>
>Jason K. Adcock
>mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
>http://www.erols.com/adcockjk


That's sounds like the same problem I'm having, but I was told it was the
balljoints that are squeaking.  Whatever it is, it's sure annoying.

Bob
'78 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 18:55:48 -0800
From: cya442@mindspring.com
Subject: Re: Info request

Chris,

    Is this spring made of a thin gauge of metal?  I seem to recall a
spring on mine that was used to keep the door panel pressed against the
window crank, that may be the one.
- --
Chris Miller
'68 442
Tustin, CA
mailto:cya442@mindspring.com



mrada wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I was pulling off the passenger side door panel from my 68 SC and out
> popped this huge spring (4-5" long) (Keep it clean boys! ;-)  What
> purpose does it have in the door?  The driver's side didn't even have
> one.
>
> Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 21:57:26 EST
From: Oldsnut <Oldsnut@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Bleeding Brakes

In a message dated 98-01-12 21:42:23 EST, you write:

<< Do the front brakes need bled or just the rears?  I can't remember where to
 start - nearest the master cylinder or furthest from it? >>

You can just bleed the wheel that was worked on, but you might want to bleed
the whole system if you haven't done it in a while.  Start with the wheel
farthest from the master cylinder.

Paul Pate
Mechanical Design Engineer
Port Neches, Texas
70 Cutlass S (350-4V, TH-350, 12-bolt 3.08)
84 Camaro (305-4V, TH-700, 10-bolt 3.08)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 22:15:05 -0500
From: loris <loris@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Bleeding Brakes

John Gill wrote:
> 
> Do the front brakes need bled or just the rears?  I can't remember where to

John:

Bleed them all to do it right and and to be safe.  I was taught to begin
with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder.  So, first is the
passenger rear, next is the driver rear, passenger front and then driver
front.

- -Loris
1968 Cutlass 'S' convertible
1972 Cutlass Supreme convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 22:13:13 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: wtd: 71 Cs conv. doors

> From tmajerni@computerm.com Mon Jan 12 15:19:42 1998
> Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 15:14:22 -0500
> Subject: '71 cutlass supreme convertible doors
>
> I'm looking for a pair of clean doors, can you help?
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 22:28:21 -0500
From: m-hanneman@onu.edu
Subject: Re: coolant resevoir

>I am having a problem with coolant.  If I fill the resevoir, it goes 
>real quick...




I think your best bet is to locate the leak and fix it.  That should solve
all of your problems.

Matt
85 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 22:44:56 EST
From: Markintime <Markintime@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 455 head gasket replacement

Hi Bob,
The permatorque head gaskets and valve cover gaskets should be available at
any good auto parts store although they may have to ordered.  Most auto parts
don't stock much Old's stuff.  I prefer Felpro gaskets, but Mr. Gasket and ROL
are also good.  As far as the valley pan is concerned, the pan is actually a
part of a stock intake manifold gasket, it is sandwiched between the intake
and heads.  If you're running a stock cast iron intake then use stock intake
gaskets and the valley pan is
taken care of.  If you're running an aluminum intake don't use stock gaskets,
they won't seal at the reduced torque when running an aluminum intake.  Use a
good aftermarket gasket instead.  In that case you can run without the valley
pan or get a bolt in from Mondello.

As far as rockers, if you're going to aluminum heads soon I'd wait till then
and match everything up at that time.  If you stay with cast iron heads, Comp
cams has a kit for the 455 that contains roller tipped rockers, studs, guide
plates pushrods and nuts, all
for less than $300.  Mondello also sells kits if you're interested.

Good Luck,
Mark Berube
Loganville, GA.
67' 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 19:46:31 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Info request

cya442@mindspring.com wrote:
> 
>     Is this spring made of a thin gauge of metal?  I seem to recall a
> spring on mine that was used to keep the door panel pressed against
> the window crank, that may be the one.

I think you are right.  It is thin guage.  Thanks....

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 19:57:38 -0800
From: "Scourge" <dgilligan@bigfoot.com>
Subject: engine stutter, and anifreeze smell

I have an 87 olds Calais, V6 102,000 miles, it has started loosing power at
crusing speeds like 60 or 65, it almost sputters after a while everything is
fine, but no matter how long you drive it if you turn it off and on again it
will keep on doing this till you go for a while, the engine does not cut
off, but it's like taking your foot of the peddle.  also a new thing just
started where i smell anti-freeze in the heat,  any ideas?  think it's worth
fixing?  or should i start looking, I'm not sure how good of a record this
model has to begin with anyway, I have always been happy with it, always
change oil every 3000 miles and do the scheduled fixes like you should, so i
don't want to can it, but i figure that someone out there may know more
about this model car, any imput would be great thanks
Dan

- -------
"Aye, and even the stupid, if persistent, shall win through..."
              Democrites, fourth son of Thucydides (484 B.C.)

Email: dgilligan@bigfoot.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1054
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