
oldsmobile-digest      Monday, February 2 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1082



Re: [Fwd: EFI info]
Olds Diesel Heaven
Re: Convertible back, glass window
Re: Paint for air filter housing
Power Windows
Re: FS: 1985 Cutlass Salon
Re: Power Windows
Re: FS: 1985 Cutlass Salon
Re: Wanted: Dashboard woodgrain Appliques
Re: FS: 1985 Cutlass Salon
Re: Questions about my '71 Cutlass
Re: Super Shops
Re: Super Shops, Erson, Mallory
Re: Power Windows
Re: window track felts
Re: re bolt on center rims
Re: drop top
new seats
Re: FS: 1985 Cutlass Salon
Re: convertible top questions
Convertible question
engine question
Head Identification - Odd Heads on 455BB
Fuel Pumps - Manual Vs Electric
Re: engine question
Re: 1970 Cutalss for Salvage
Re: Fuel Pumps - Manual Vs Electric
Re: new seats
Re: Power Windows
Re: engine question
Re: Convertible piston panel recovering
Re: Convertible piston panel recovering
67 98 for sale
wtd: 68 Toro decklid emblem
mailing list
Re: Wanted: Dashboard woodgrain Appliques
Re: 1970 Cutlass
Joined OCA
Carb rebuild kit.  Help?
Regarding Drool page comments
I'm looking for these
Size of speakers for 73?
1976 Oldsmobile Option Codes
Re: FYI: 1973 Oldsmobile Option Codes
Re: Just purchased a 455
Re: 1970 Cutalss for Salvage
golf ball
Re: LORIS Olds Drool Page
Edelbrock intake for sale
Re: engine question
Re: Vista Cruiser Stuff
Re: Super Shops
Stolen car in AZ- non-Olds
Re: FORD fuel problem
AL V8 motor
repro W/Z's
Re: Wanted: Dashboard woodgrain Appliques
UNBOUNCE: '67 98 FS

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 21:21:27 -0500
From: "Michael A. Evans" <evans1@net-link.net>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: EFI info]

Charley--

Dick Miller sells a complete digital electronic port fuel injection setup
for the big block Olds, flows up to 1400 cfm.....all for only *choke*
$4500. Call (517) 782-2012 to place your order.....I'd be pretty dang sure
you'd have the only one in Montana! ;-)

At 06:01 PM 1/31/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Sent this, got this.  Some may find it interesting???
>
>
>-- 
>               Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
>For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
>		http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
>    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
>		        Sidney MontanaReturn-Path: <fuelinjection@fuelinjection.com>
>Received: from plato.stic.net (mail.stic.net [204.57.118.5])
>	by hood.btigate.com (8.8.8/8.8.8) with ESMTP id RAA22685
>	for <buehner@lyrea.com>; Sat, 31 Jan 1998 17:29:15 -0600 (CST)
>Received: from LOCALNAME ([207.71.50.209]) by plato.stic.net
>          (Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO205-101c)
>          ID# 0-45276U7500L3000S0) with SMTP id AAB89
>          for <buehner@lyrea.com>; Sat, 31 Jan 1998 17:29:35 -0600
>X-Sender: fuelinjection@mail.stic.net
>X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.2
>Mime-Version: 1.0
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>To: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
>From: Fuel Injection Specialties <fuelinjection@fuelinjection.com>
>Subject: Re: EFI info
>Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 17:29:35 -0600
>Message-ID: <19980131232932750.AAB89@LOCALNAME>
>
>At 12:14 PM 1/29/98 -0700, you wrote:
>>Do you supply any TPI systems for Olds?  Everyone in the world has
>>nearly everything for chevrolet (I guess they ~need~ it worst!) but very
>>few go into the real muscle motors of Buick, Olds, or Pontiac.  Any
>>thoughts or suggestions?  I'm on the internet Oldsmobile mailing list,
>>and I'm sure there's a few on there that would actually shell out the
>>$$$ for a TPI-Olds setup.  I'd be interested in the future for my next
>>buildup, as well.  At the moment, it's more of a curiosity issue. 
>>Thanks...
>>-- 
>>               Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
>>For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
>>		http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
>>    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
>>		        Sidney Montana
>>	The Heartbeat of America???  ~That's~ in my mirror!
>>
>Custom systems can be built using a Olds al intake, weld in bosses, mount
>fuel rails etc..
>We have all the component parts for building same.
>
>Let us know.
>
>Regards
>
>Don S
>
>
>Fuel Injection Specialties
>http: www.fuelinjection.com
>Tel: 1-210-654-0774
>Fax: 1-210-654-0775
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 22:32:18 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Olds Diesel Heaven

Went and visited the shop of an interesting guy today. He was a mechanic 
at an Olds dealership here that went broke a few years back. Specialized 
in diesels and heavy trucks (they sold Ch*vy too). When they went bust he 
cleaned them out of a lot of stuff, and he has been driving Olds diesel 
full-sizers for years. He buys them for next to nothing, fixes them with 
his stash of parts, then drives them until they rot away.

Nowadays he works for the military as a heavy equipment mechanic, 
rebuilds heavy-duty diesels for them and others in his spare time, along 
with British Seagull outboards and motorcyles of various kinds. I was 
there today to look at a tilt/tele column he wants to install in the 
Delta for me (the horn pad on the wheel looks almost moldy though, dunno) 
and a guage panel he pulled from one of his old Deltas (unfortunately 
missing the matching bezel piece that goes around the speedo, so it's no 
good to me). While walking around his basement and garage looking at this 
stuff you had to watch out because you would always be tripping over 
stuff... rebuilt starters and alternators (he does that too), wheels, NOS 
GM parts galore, you name it. Along with a '65 Honda 300 cycle, a Suzuki 
(I think) Wankel-engine cycle, a couple of 8.2 liter Detroit diesels, a 
bunch of seagull outboards, plus all kinds of heavy-duty equipment, 
dealer manuals, AC Delco cabinets, etc. Sort of like a car guy's toy store.

I even got to start my first diesel. His regular car is an '82 Delta 
coupe with the Olds diesel. The odo shows 49,000 miles, and it is on it's 
second or maybe even third time around. The car itself is solid but 
extremely rough paint and trim-wise, but the diesel runs like a watch. It 
was neat to sit there and wait for the "Wait" light to go out, then turn 
the key and have the thing clatter to life. Man, those things are loud. 
This one at 150,000 or maybe even 250,000 miles has got to be one of the 
longest-lived ones around.

He's the kind of guy it's handy to know... need a frame welded, an engine 
rebuilt, heck, anything rebuilt, he can do it. Plus, he likes rum too, so 
with a little of it to grease the wheels of commerce you can cut a good 
deal... ;-)

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 18:26:22 -0500
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Re: Convertible back, glass window

>I'm having a new top put on my car.  If anyone can use my old glass back
>window, it yours for shipping costs.  The glass is stock, (tinted) and is in
>perfect shape.  The material is black in color.
>
>I just hate throwing away perfectly good stuff!  If interested let me know
>ASAP!
>
>RC Hellebuyck
>1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
>1995 Achieva S
>
>http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

Does anypne know if it is possible/practical to replace a plastic window
with the original glass?  Also is the glass the same between a '71 and a
'69?

The lady I bought my '69 from had the top replaced with a plastic window
which has primer spots and is scratched which makes it miserable when I
have to drive the car with the top up.

If I get any positive responses I would be very interested in the glass.


Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 22:38:50 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Paint for air filter housing

On Sat, 31 Jan 1998 BradRoss79@aol.com wrote:
> I have been wanting to repaint the air filter housing on my 71 Delta 88.
> I was wondering if any of you can reccomend a good paint that gives that
> "factory" 
> appearance, because I want it to look original.
> Thanks in advance for your help.

I've used Krylon semigloss black in the past with good results. It's all 
in the surface prep and prime job that you do though. Take time to get it 
really smooth first. If you're really ambitious you can wet-sand and 
compound it out later for a very fine finish.

I have also seen a Flecto semi-black used for this. It takes a couple of 
days to full dry but it gives a very nice and very tough finish, although 
it's shinier than original, but looks better that way anyhow IMHO. 
Although the original finish was semigloss, I always like restored ones 
with a little more gloss to them better.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 21:58:13 EST
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Power Windows

I have the doors off of my car and they have power windows. How can I get the
windows down? Can I hook the window wires up to a battery, or would it blow
the power window motor. I had the car out during the winter and I had to have
the windows up, but now I am doing the restoration and I would like to get the
windows down. 
Does anyone out there know where I can get a good set of window felts? I have
read that there is a bad kind and a good kind. Is this true?

Jim

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 21:59:14 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: FS: 1985 Cutlass Salon

Sounds like the $1500 is somewhere around the blue book TRADE IN value. 
Which means, it looks like a heckuva bargain.  If the body isn't beat
up, and dogs haven't lived in the interior, it would probably be an
EXCELLENT driver for that price.  I'm currently considering an 86 442
that is completely stock, loaded to the gills with every option, but has
similarly 150K on the clock.  For $3K, I don't even consider THAT a bad
deal.

Speaking of that, as most of you already know (if not, you've heard it
here first), I have an '85 442. Only thing is, I bought it new, and it
has led a pampered life.  This '86 is well used, but seems to be in
GREAT shape.  If any of you out there has bought a used mid 80's
Cutlass/442, please share some thoughts as to what I should be looking
for, like what are some common problem areas.  I believe someone here
once said that rustout in the rear frame area was notorious on these
cars, but I'm not sure.  Any ideas would be helpful.  You could send it
privately to me, but I would prefer it posted to the list, so EVERYONE
can see and possibly learn, as well as myself.

TIA,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 22:14:26 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Power Windows

> Does anyone out there know where I can get a good set of window felts? I have
> read that there is a bad kind and a good kind. Is this true?

Jim Chermack is going to be getting some correct bead window felts in
soon.  I suggest those.  As long as your car didn't come with the wide
window chrome (option D35??? not sure, can't remember)  Then it becomes
more difficult.
 
As far as the window being down, you COULD hook up the wires to a known
12V source, like the battery, and it SHOULD do fine.  I'm not gonna come
right out and tell you to do this, in case something screws up and then
I'd have to live with that guilt forever.  But, if you in-line fuse the
power source to the motor (MAKE DANG SURE YOU GET IT HOOKED UP
CORRECTLY) it should be ok.  Better the fuse dies than your motor.  The
other alternative is ugly.  Meaning disassembly.

2 cents worth of SUGGESTIONS,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 23:42:42 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: FS: 1985 Cutlass Salon

On Sat, 31 Jan 1998, MROTHE wrote:
> If any of you out there has bought a used mid 80's
> Cutlass/442, please share some thoughts as to what I should be looking
> for, like what are some common problem areas.  I believe someone here
> once said that rustout in the rear frame area was notorious on these
> cars, but I'm not sure.  Any ideas would be helpful.  You could send it
> privately to me, but I would prefer it posted to the list, so EVERYONE
> can see and possibly learn, as well as myself.

I haven't bought one but have looked at plenty last year in my quest for 
a used car. Up here in the salt belt these cars seem to self-destruct in 
a few common ways. Rear frame rails near the body mounts all rot away 
here, to the extent that GM actually offered a repair piece for them for 
a while at least. Seems to be due to relatively light-guage metal in the 
frames along with a design that traps mud, salt and moisture.

Also in this same vicinity I've seen a bunch of cars with the body seams 
in the trunk/inner wheelhouse area separated. Plus they have problems 
with the doors; rust-out in the bottoms mostly, but a lot seem to develop 
fatigue cracks near the mirror holes too. Also the chrome rear bumper 
seems to rot quite frequently here. The ones I drove generally ran quite 
well and were fun to drive, but I always got to look at ones that were 
pretty tired for the price asked. Good luck if you've found a nice one, 
though.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 22:46:19 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted: Dashboard woodgrain Appliques

- -----Original Message-----
From: loris <loris@tir.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, January 31, 1998 9:24 PM
Subject: Re: Wanted: Dashboard woodgrain Appliques


>John;
>
>Any of the resto catalogues should have them, i.e. Brothers, Fusicks,
>Year One, USA Parts, etc.


This seems to be one of those cases where all the resto places have
70-72, but no 69s. Mine are a little dull too and I was thinking about
replacing them. If anyone finds a source, please let me know too.

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S convertible
OCA# 29770
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 22:55:41 -0500
From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: FS: 1985 Cutlass Salon

> I believe someone here
>once said that rustout in the rear frame area was notorious on these
>cars, but I'm not sure.  Any ideas would be helpful.  You could send it
>privately to me, but I would prefer it posted to the list, so EVERYONE
>can see and possibly learn, as well as myself.

Watch for ther rear frame rust for sure. I have seen hundreds of G-bodies pass through our
salvage yard through the years and nearly all have rear frame rot. No year is exempt from
this. I have seen it on 78 up to 88 G-bodies. It is amazing too. I have seen mid 80's
Cutlass's that look mint but once you check underneath the rear frame is nearly gone!

Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) Akron, OH
95 DCM Impala SS
80 Olds 442 W-30
75 Hurst/Olds W-25

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 22:20:36 -0600
From: Robert Bishop <rbishop@iamerica.net>
Subject: Re: Questions about my '71 Cutlass

At 12:48 PM 1/30/98 -0600, you wrote:
>to start off, I'm not even sure if it is a 71. It has a few 72 parts
> and I would like to find out what the original car was. It has a 72 442
> hood, but I only have a 350. The bumper is also a 72, but the only
> differance is the light covers. Can somebody help me figure it out?
>  I need new seats in the back. Should I just get seat covers? Should I
> have them redone completely? What are the price ranges? Help would be
> appreciated.
>
>
If this is a Cutlass Supreme--->
The quickest visual checks are the following:

71 had body chrome running the length of the body, in line with the side
marker lights.
72 does not have this chrome strip

71 headlight bezels are just metal colored,
72 covers were painted

71 has vertical front grills, with a single horizontal divider
72 has checkerboard front grills

71 has 2 horizontally mounted taillights on each side, one above the other
72 has the same lights, but with dividers to make it appear each light is 3
sections

Of course, the positive ID is the VIN code

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 20:33:27 -0800
From: Chris & Robin <cya442@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Super Shops

Let me know how it went at the Super Shop in HB, I would like to go to one and see
how much stuff they have left!

- --
Chris Miller
'68 442
Tustin, CA
mailto:cya442@mindspring.com

James Thingwold wrote:

> I'm hitting the HB one if its still open, I don't know of another locally
> either!
>
> Lisa Madsen
> Anaheim, CA
>
> '64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
> Cruiser (twin hauler)
>
> Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
>
> My Web-Page-----:  http://server.exo.com/~jht/olds/
>
> Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
> Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://server.exo.com/~jht/olds/oldsbbs/index.cgi
>
> Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
> http://server.exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 23:33:07 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Super Shops, Erson, Mallory

Paul,

That's quite a coincidence, as we had a racer's auction & trade show here last
month and it had several Erson products in it. Wonder if the auctioneer
brought them from another auction here to sell them off?

We have a S/S here, out in Johnson County. I'll have to check and see if it's
closed yet.

Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 20:51:19 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Power Windows

DROLDS350@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I have the doors off of my car and they have power windows. How can I
> get the windows down? Can I hook the window wires up to a battery, or
> would it blow the power window motor. I had the car out during the

Well when I went to my local parts store to try out some window motors
I just got from the junk yard, all the guy did to check the motor was
to ground the motor (since it wasn't on the car) and attach the wires
to a 12V battery.  Didn't bother the motor at all.  I think all you
need to do is probably connect two wires from the terminals on your
motor and touch them to the 12V battery.  

Good luck and be careful.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 20:54:15 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: window track felts

Hi all,

I just got the front door window felts put on my 68 442 SC (with a
post).  I tried to go and do the rear ones and lo and behold they are
like the front ones.  It seems that some rivetting was done and the 
W/S felts are partial units, not a complete surround around type like
the front doors.  Is it worth doing these?  I am currently of the 
opinion that it is not.  Any feedback?


Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 22:54:23 +0000
From: "M. Slocum" <mslocum@shrike.depaul.edu>
Subject: Re: re bolt on center rims

Thanks, but i'm looking for 15"(3) or 5- 14" with centers.

Mike Slocum
72 Cutlass convertible

Jack Karamanos wrote:

> do i remember something like someone looking for bolt on center rims?
> i have a pair of 14x7 bolt on centers, stainless trim pieces 5/wheel
> there, but no centers
>
> 47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 23:34:13 -0600
From: Larry Martino <lmmsr@flash.net>
Subject: Re: drop top

Patton wrote:
> 
> Lars,
>         If you get a chance, I need you to check out the transmission X-member
> perches. For 67' only (first year of TH400) the factory assy. manual shows
> that a
> second perch was added to accept the extra block-to-mount distance - about
> 6 inches - for the TH400.
> 
>                                         Tanks
>                                         The General
>                                         (mark guiles - Phila)

Unfortunately, my uncle went on vacation for the week. I'll print out
your message and show it to him the next time I see him.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 23:40:45 -0600
From: Larry Martino <lmmsr@flash.net>
Subject: new seats

I desperatly need new back seats in my 71 cutlass conv. What would be
the best thing to do, buy seat covers, or have them redone by a pro? Do
the seat covers look okay? What is the most economical?


Lars
1971 Cutlass conv.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 01:03:56 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: FS: 1985 Cutlass Salon

Regarding G-Body Cutlass/442 problems:  mine was pretty much pampered, also, BUT there are still
some probs, some have come up during the last few months.  One of them that is currently bothering
me: the car creaks when it just starts to move, like from a stoplight or a stop sign.  I don't know
whether it is body mounts or suspension mounts (in the rear).  Of course, there is the
intake-to-head gasket that goes bad in the front.  Certainly not something to sway your decision,
but if it's already been fixed on that car, it'll make the decision that much easier.  My frame has
absolutely no rust on it...anywhere.  But I think mine hasn't been driven much at all in the snow. 
The previous owner was single and had a 70's K-5 Blazer that he drove during the winter, so the
Cutlass sat in the carport all winter, I'm sure.  The bottom of the driver's door had a fair amount
of surface rust, which I fixed over my Thanksgiving break (2 months ago).  It might be coming back,
though.  None of the drain holes are plugged, so I might have to shoot some anti-rust stuff up in
there.  That's about all I can think of.  Other than these little "things" with the car, I've had no
problems with it.  It's been a pretty reliable car, in my experience.

+---------------------------------------------------------------+
|	__    ________						|
|	\ \  / __  __/	Jason Adcock				|
|	 \ \/ / / /	CS Major, Virginia Tech			|
|	  \  / / /	mailto:jadcock@vt.edu			|
|	   \/ /_/	http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/		|
|								|
+---------------------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 03:13:25 EST
From: JCutlass@aol.com
Subject: Re: convertible top questions

In a message dated 98-01-31 21:37:40 EST, you write:

<< What's a reasonable price to replace the canvas and how do I know if I
should
 replace more/everything? >>

Recently replaced the works on a 68 Cutlass,  40 oz top,
glass,cables,weatherstrip,from Brothers for about $550.00. Tried several
frontal assaults on installing it myself and it won. Had it installed for
$300. Had quotes up to about $450 for install alone.  Make sure the internal
drains are clear where the gutter dumps out under the back side windows.

Tim in Okla

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 03:22:43 EST
From: JCutlass@aol.com
Subject: Convertible question

68 Cutlass convertible
Top operation is working great, but car sat mostly inactive for many years.
What maintenance needs to be checked on these pumps. Does fluid need to be
replaced. Can moisture get in there. Any experts on these contraptions care to
share your expertise. Just trying to head off trouble.
Thanks 
Tim in Okla

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 03:31:14 EST
From: JCutlass@aol.com
Subject: engine question

Have a 68 Cutlass conv  VIN 336678M402456

Previous owner say original engine was 330(?) Was this correct, or is he nuts.
I assumed it came with a 350.
Also says he had that engine replaced with a 350 from a 78 Delta Royal. 
Problem with coolant circulation, suspect bad thermostat. What thermostat
would this engine need. Noticed in the parts store reference to a 190 degree
thermo for hi pressure system? Someone please enlighten me to what determines
a hi pressure system.
Many thanks folks

Tim in Okla

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 21:15:51 +1030
From: "Scott " <scott@tplex.com.au>
Subject: Head Identification - Odd Heads on 455BB

After all of the discussion recently re: head identification I thought I'd
check what I have got on mine.

The block has an id of 396021F (68-72 455) the number on the oil filler
tube is 8548070 ??? (I couldn't find any reference to this number on the
olds FAQ page). The head on the passenger side is a "C" head (C cast at
rear end of block) with a cast serial number of 394548, on the driver side
its an "A" head (A cast at front end of block) with a cast serial number of
383821.

Both heads are different in physical appearance. From what I have read on
the Olds FAQ page both heads are of the same CC rating (ie 80 cc), and the
engine seems to run OK etc etc. 

What I am not sure about is what problems if any I am likely to encounter
running odd heads, the only thing I could think of was differences in flow
due to design and valve differences. 

Any comments appreciated.


Scott
60 Olds Dynamic 88 Coupe



Ps. This is the way the car was when I bought it, I can only guess that at
some point in its life one head was replaced (cheap repair job). I guess
that the "A" head was the odd replacement (only a guess ?)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 21:24:37 +1030
From: "Scott " <scott@tplex.com.au>
Subject: Fuel Pumps - Manual Vs Electric

And now for my second question for the day.....

My fathers olds (60 - 371) has just had the fuel pump pack it in. We have
looked in the Fusick catalogue and they list change over units so getting a
replacement should not be a major problem hopefully.

What we were considering was forgetting the manual pump and going for an
electric unit, cost wise its going to be about the same as the manual but
we were thinking that the electric should make starting after a week or two
of no use that little bit easier. Up until now starting after a week or so
of sitting in the shed requires a manual prime or a fair amount of cranking
to suck the fuel up.

I would be interested to hear any one elses experience with their electric
conversion before we decide to go one way or the other. 



Scott
60 Olds Dynamic 88 Coupe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 08:37:16 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: engine question

On Sun, 1 Feb 1998 JCutlass@aol.com wrote:
> Have a 68 Cutlass conv  VIN 336678M402456
> Previous owner say original engine was 330(?) Was this correct, or is he nuts.
> I assumed it came with a 350.

Last year for the 330 was '67. Yours should have a 350.

> Also says he had that engine replaced with a 350 from a 78 Delta Royal. 
> Problem with coolant circulation, suspect bad thermostat. What thermostat
> would this engine need. Noticed in the parts store reference to a 190 degree
> thermo for hi pressure system? Someone please enlighten me to what determines
> a hi pressure system.

These run a 15lb rad cap like most cars of that vintage. Thermostat may 
be the problem, but if you are having problems with "circulation" the 
water pump might also be a suspect, along with maybe even a collapsed 
lower rad hose. Water pumps on these cars are notorious for going bad. 
Try it without a thermostat in there and see if the coolant is moving 
around in the rad when it's running (i.e. take the cap off when it's 
cool, start the car and let it warm up with the cap off and look into the 
rad).

If it is the 'stat, then find a hi-flow 180 degree one. There was some 
discussion here a while back about this since it seems some are not 
recommended for use in a Rocket engine due to a design issue; I forget 
the conclusion, maybe someone can enlighten us both.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 08:26:54 -0500
From: Dan Boone <boone.dan@acd.net>
Subject: Re: 1970 Cutalss for Salvage

What kind of shape is the frame in, (how bad is it bent, how rusty is
it)? Is this a bucket seat car or does it have the notch back bench? And
finally, does this car have a/c? You can e-mail me personally at
boone.dan@acd.net

tcjmiami@ix.netcom.com wrote:

> My 1970 Cutlass Convertible has been totaled.
>
> I live in Miami Fl and would like to see the remains go to someone
> who needs the parts.
>
> My insurance company is going to give me a quotation for the car and
> I assume that I will be given the option to buy it back.
>
> The Car was in near perfect Condition (Apprised at $10,000) before
> the wreck.
>
> I anyone is interested in this car please e-mail me.
>
> The impound lot wants about $300 and the additional fees from the
> insurance company etc will also be on top of that.
>
> Parts:
> White Top SIx months Old
> Front Seats Recovered 6 months ago.
> Rear Seats original
> New Carpets 6 months ago.
> 350 4 barrel (100k miles)
> Turbo 350 Trans.
> Front end Real Bad
> No rust on any panels
> Top works
> Four sport wheels
>
> Tom Johnson
> 1970 Cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 08:33:03 EST
From: RPTW32@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fuel Pumps - Manual Vs Electric

I run an electric holley pump on my 69 442. have it mounted under the car 
over the rear end and have had no problems to date. For your application get
a "street rated pump " these are present at 7 psi usually and you won't have
to 
have a regulator to reduce fuel pressure.

Also comes in handy as anti theft device as you can install a switch for the
pump that will only allow motor to run on what's in the carb if not switched
on and
someone wants to borrow the car...

Never say       vapor lock  again  either  .... big advantage on those hot
summer days.


Rgds,
R.Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 08:01:30 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: new seats

Larry,

If the seat itself is bad, then it has to be replaced.  That metal is very
difficult ot repair.  If you mean that the upholstery id bad, then I would
replace the upholstery only and have any padding work done.

The upholstery is sold be several companies and cam be installed by you or
an upholsterer.  This would be an exact match for the original.   Upholstery
shop work may have many variations from the origiinal including pleat
widths, seaming, color, vinyl pattern,  and any number of other thiings.

The cheapest is probably a used seat, but it will probably soon have the
same problems as yours now.  Buying an upholstery set from Year One or
Tamraz, etc. should cost no more than having a scratch set made at the shop.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible



>I desperatly need new back seats in my 71 cutlass conv. What would be
>the best thing to do, buy seat covers, or have them redone by a pro? Do
>the seat covers look okay? What is the most economical?
>
>
>Lars
>1971 Cutlass conv.
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 08:09:02 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Power Windows

The grounding is correct and can be done to any part of the door when the
motor is installed.  The two wires from the motor are (1) up and (2) down.
Use the hot side of the power source to touch one wire at a time.  You will
then discover quickly which is up and which is down.  Hold the hot power
source to the down one until it is in the position that you desire just as
yoiu would with the window switch.  No harm will come if you don't touch
anything else but the motor contacts or continue to put power to the motor
beyond the full up or down for any length of time.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible


>DROLDS350@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> I have the doors off of my car and they have power windows. How can I
>> get the windows down? Can I hook the window wires up to a battery, or
>> would it blow the power window motor. I had the car out during the
>
>Well when I went to my local parts store to try out some window motors
>I just got from the junk yard, all the guy did to check the motor was
>to ground the motor (since it wasn't on the car) and attach the wires
>to a 12V battery.  Didn't bother the motor at all.  I think all you
>need to do is probably connect two wires from the terminals on your
>motor and touch them to the 12V battery.
>
>Good luck and be careful.
>
>Chris Sparks
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 08:16:41 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: engine question

Tim,

These cars came with a 350 for sure.  A 180' thermostat was the original
type or 190' wouldn't be out of the question.  The 160' will prevent your
heater from working and keep operating temperatures too low for optimal gas
mileage and power.  Try to get a brass one as they are higher quality.

High pressure would be anything in the 14 to 15# type.  Yours should have a
cap that will hold to 15# now.  You might check that it does read that on
the cap and that it will actually hold there.  the radiator also is of the
high pressure type so as to withstand those pressures.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible.


>
>Have a 68 Cutlass conv  VIN 336678M402456
>
>Previous owner say original engine was 330(?) Was this correct, or is he
nuts.
>I assumed it came with a 350.
>Also says he had that engine replaced with a 350 from a 78 Delta Royal.
>Problem with coolant circulation, suspect bad thermostat. What thermostat
>would this engine need. Noticed in the parts store reference to a 190
degree
>thermo for hi pressure system? Someone please enlighten me to what
determines
>a hi pressure system.
>Many thanks folks
>
>Tim in Okla
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 07:21:56 -0700
From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Subject: Re: Convertible piston panel recovering

Thanks to everybody who replied.  I'm going to try Hoagie's advice, and use
foam.  I'll let you know how it turns out.

Bob


- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         mailto://rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 07:21:56 -0700
From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@rmci.net>
Subject: Re: Convertible piston panel recovering

Thanks to everybody who replied.  I'm going to try Hoagie's advice, and use
foam.  I'll let you know how it turns out.

Bob


- -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Robert J. Lavey                         mailto://rjlavey@rmci.net
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.                     Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302                   Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 09:56:34 +0000
From: David McGee <keytohwy@staffnet.com>
Subject: 67 98 for sale

I have a 67 Ninety-Eight for sale.  Body in good shape.  Engine runs
like a top.  New tires, brakes, passed Virginia inspection last week. 
Needs paint, but otherwise great.  As you know, this baby floats down
the road!  There are certainly other specifics, but email me directly if
you have questions.  The car is located in Fredericksburg, VA.  Asking
$1000 or best offer.

DAVE

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 10:35:05 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: wtd: 68 Toro decklid emblem

anyone in the desert can help this guy? No pretty ones here in MI!

> From bobrutland@mindspring.com Fri Jan 30 16:25:27 1998
> Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 16:30:05 -0500
> From: "Robert D. Rutland" <bobrutland@mindspring.com>
>
> I am rebuilding a 1968 Toronado and need a good quality emblem for the
> position above the right rear tail lights.  Can you help me?
> Bob Rutland

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 10:40:03 EST
From: Ridn88@aol.com
Subject: mailing list

i have'nt recieved any mail lately, just wondering why?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 10:57:21 EST
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Wanted: Dashboard woodgrain Appliques

Mick-
I've noted the same problem with the '69 wood appliques, that nobody makes
them!
But I also an ad on Bryceman's page from a fellow making the repro woodgrain
pieces for the '68 Hurst Olds. Now, these are the same dashboards except that
the '69 has applique and the '68 doesn't. The fellow says he can make it in
any wood you desire, it's cut on a CNC machine so it should be a tidy product.
He's asking $95 for the H/O wood.

I'm not 100% sure what the hurst woo looks like, but it's gotta be close. I'll
be needing some also for my '69 442 convert, now in the paint shop. Let me
know what you find.

The guy's email is Drag66@earthlink.net   His name is Jon

Peter
CoupeKing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 11:06:53 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: 1970 Cutlass

Tom,

I'm very saddened to hear of your loss.  8>(    I hope things work out as
best as possible for you.  Although I don't know details about what
happened, I'm assuming you weren't seriously injured.  Be thankful for that!

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.
1995 Achieva S
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 11:10:49 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Joined OCA

I took the "plunge" and joined OCA.  Still waiting for my # and my first
copy of JWO.

RC Hellebuyck
OCA #(in progress)   Now I get to add this line.  8>)
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
1995 Achieva S

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 11:16:39 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Carb rebuild kit.  Help?

I'm going to have the carb rebuilt for my 455.  What kit should I get to
make the carb completely stock?   I have no idea what the last owner may
have done to the inside.  (metering rods etc.)

Thanks in advance for any advice.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
1995 Achieva S

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 11:27:30 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Regarding Drool page comments

Thanks to everyone who gave complements regarding my Olds Drool Page.  I'm
glad it's being enjoyed!  Since my efforts weren't in vain, I'll be adding
more and more goodies as I "steal" pictures from other web sites and books
etc.  So y'all come back and visit ya hear?  (not too bad for a guy with a
MI accent huh?)

8>)

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
1995 Achieva S

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 11:42:50 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: I'm looking for these

Looking for:

One of those 8-track adapters that allows you to play a cassette.  Made by
Kraco and a few others in the early 80s.

A Olds door mounted, outside thermometer in EC or I'll settle for one that's
NOS.   Was available only in 1971 so I'm told.  If you don't know what I'm
talking about, I'll be adding a picture of one on my web site soon.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
1995 Achieva S

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 12:00:12 +0000
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Size of speakers for 73?

The backs are 6x9 , I know that. But what size are the fronts? I'm
guessing 3 1/2, but I'm not around my car right now and can't measure
them.
- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 12:06:09 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: 1976 Oldsmobile Option Codes

Thomas G. Stoner wrote:

> Item:  1973 Oldsmobile Optional Equipment Codes
> Source:  1975 Oldsmobile Chassis and Body Parts Catalog - effective
> April, 1975

Hey Tom, maybe I missed the post somehow, but did you post the '76
options?  If not, do you have 'em and could you post 'em please??  It'd
much appreciate it.  Thank you.
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
468 BigBlock '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 12:10:34 +0000
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: FYI: 1973 Oldsmobile Option Codes

Thomas G. Stoner wrote:
> 
> Item:  1973 Oldsmobile Optional Equipment Codes
> Source:  1975 Oldsmobile Chassis and Body Parts Catalog - effective
> April, 1975
> 
> Code  Description
> AC3     Electric 6-way Seat
> AD3     Roof Ventilator
[snip of long list of codes now on my web page]

Where would I find all these codes? I know for sure it has:

A01
A65
B30
C60
L34
M38

But where would I find things like the rear end code, tire code, etc.?

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 12:04:46 -0600
From: Daren & Laurie Hendley <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: Just purchased a 455

Charley Buehner wrote:

>
>
> A reminder, headers are spendy and limit turning radius, but those who
> run them seem to really apppreciate the sacrifice.  FWIW
>

How does the headers effect turning radius? I had an '82 Gutlass w/455 and cheapo
 headers (around $70) and had no problems with turning. Evan with it's basically
 stock engine ('76 455) it sounded good with headers and a full  2 1/2" exhaust.
Daren

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 12:13:43 -0600
From: Daren & Laurie Hendley <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: 1970 Cutalss for Salvage

tcjmiami@ix.netcom.com wrote:

> My 1970 Cutlass Convertible has been totaled.
>

How ~totaled~ is it? I had a '72 442 that my insurance co. totaled and
it only needed a front bumper, fender, stone shield(?) and a head light
bezel. The insurance co. paid off my $2200 loan and I paid them $60 to
keep the car. I never fixed it but it would have been under $1k to fix.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 12:17:46 -0600
From: Larry Martino <lmmsr@flash.net>
Subject: golf ball

When I was born, my grandfather gave me an oldsmobile golf ball. He kept
it from 1965. It is in a small blue and white box that says "drive the
rocket action car", "Go where the action is", and has the rocket emblem
on the top and Olds 1965 (and another rocket emblem) on the bottom. The
ball itself just has two rocket emblems on it. Is there any value to
this besides sentimental? The box and ball are in very good shape
besides some yellowing in the color of the ball.

Lars
1971 Cutlass conv.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 11:16:03 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: LORIS Olds Drool Page

>Netscape 3.01 Gold,  Netscape Navigator 4.04, and MS Explorer 4.0.   It
>comes up fine for me. 

We have the Navigator 4.04 and the page comes up just fine.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://server.exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://server.exo.com/~jht/olds/oldsbbs/index.cgi

Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://server.exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 14:33:53 -0500
From: Rotten <olds442@en.com>
Subject: Edelbrock intake for sale

I have an Edelbrock 04b aluminum intake for sale. Fits BB olds. It's in mint
condition. $100 + shipping.

olds442@en.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 14:52:28 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: engine question

JCutlass@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Have a 68 Cutlass conv  VIN 336678M402456
> 
> Previous owner say original engine was 330(?) Was this correct, or is he nuts.
> I assumed it came with a 350.

My book says the 68 could come with a 250 I6 or several versions of the
350, but no 330.  According to it, the last year of the 330 was 1967 so
it is POSSIBLE that some early 68s could have a 330 installed
originally, but I wouldn't think so.  If yours is a late 68 I wouldn't
think it likely at all.  You can never rule anything totally out, but I
would suspect the car did not have a 330 in it when it hit the showroom
floor.  As for the other questions, I am unfortunately unable to provide
any assistance to you.  Sorry.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 11:46:41 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Vista Cruiser Stuff

Gladly Greg - that was what frustrated my buddy the most - it looks like
someone backed into something vs. the usual rust.  My tailgate is sound (a
miracle, ehh?)  Are your drains clear on yours?  I noticed mine are full of
prehistoric leaves and stuff, need to clear it out better.  We're also
currently looking to have the long piece of rubber that butts up against
the window itself duplicated (there is a place here in Torrance that
advertises custom rubber pieces made - come on, how difficult would that
one be?!)  I cant think of too much else to do to safeguard it then that.

I haven't seen a similar year Buick to compare, but I don't recall them
having quite as bowed out a tailgate - could be wrong though.

Did pass a '65 Sport Wagon the other day on the street - WOW - if I hadn't
been late from lunch I'd chased him down.  It looked completely original, a
bit for the worse, but in nice shape overall.  Sister ship!

If we find one cheaper then this, I will let you know.  We are going to get
in touch with my Canada contact who had 4-5 wagons in his yard & see what
he might charge for the outter metal if he has one in good condition.  If
its more reasonable then the local one I'll post a note.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://server.exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://server.exo.com/~jht/olds/oldsbbs/index.cgi

Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://server.exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 11:51:05 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Super Shops

We're going by today to see if the one that was in SA & moved is still
there and will swing by the HB one as well.

Will post the results.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://server.exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://server.exo.com/~jht/olds/oldsbbs/index.cgi

Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://server.exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 15:38:52 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Stolen car in AZ- non-Olds

Greetings folks, hoping someone might just spot this car, or pieces of it. My
wife's grandma's car was recently stolen from her work in Mesa, AZ. Car was the
quintessential Olds Lady's car. We were supposed to inherit it. Olds or not, it
was a fine candidate for use or modification. Alas, though I tried to convince
her to let me put some sort of anti-theft system in it, it had no protection at
all. Anyhow...

CAR STOLEN in Mesa, AZ, Thursday 29JAN98, 7am-4pm
    1985 Buick Regal Coupe
    VIN 1G4GM47A8FH436304
White exterior, beige vinyl top, beige interior, wire spoke wheel covers.
Mesa Police Dept., Report #980290785, Sgt. Killabrew.

Spread the word anywhere you think it might help? Maybe an AOL member could
post it to the Buick section of the CARS area? I am sending this to Hemming's
for publication as well. Thanks for any assistance, doubt that we'll ever see
it again, but who knows?

That reminds me, another idea I had- use these seat motors we make to apply the
parking brake. Remotely mounted in car or under hood, it would require the
motor to be reversed electrically to un-brake the car. Releasing the normal
pedal would not help. They pull up to 1000 lb., which should be sufficient to
make the car undrivable- only towable.


- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 15:27:49 -0600
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: FORD fuel problem

- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) <mrada@catalina-inter.net>


>Daren & Laurie Hendley wrote:
>>
>> single 34 gallon tank. It does suck every other week when I have to
>> shell out $30 to fill it.
>
>Your gas cost you $0.88/gal?  Where are you located?
>
>Chris Sparks

88-90 octane is .91 to .94 cents 91-92 octane is .96 to $1.04 and 110 octane
unleaded ~racing gas~ (that's what the sign says) was $2.95 a couple weeks
ago when I drove by the station. I live in Davenport Ia. Go across the
Mississippi to the land of Lincoln and pay .05 - .07 more because of higher
taxes.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 16:17:00 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: AL V8 motor

From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: 1962 F-85 w/ alum. engine
Can I ask you a question about the 215 aluminum V8 ------- How much is one
worth complete and is there a demand for these things.
I found one and could pass my good deal onto someone else if they want.
But the main question is what are they worth --- just the engine
Robert Schinkel
==============
Well, I found one of these at Padnos one day. Ran home, looked up the # of the
guy near Detroit who does these. Asked him. He said it was not worth it for him
to drive up to Lansing and pay $50 for one. OK. I didn't buy it. It's now
scrap. If I see one again, I'd buy it just to have one in the stash- Padnos
prolly sell it for $30-40 if I don't bother to tell 'em it's an ALUMINUM motor
I'm getting... but some days $30 seems like a lot to tie up for the next, what,
10 years? until someone needs one real bad. This was a 2V motor, too, I guess
the 4V motors are way rarer and thus more valuable.

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 16:20:54 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: repro W/Z's

Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 20:08:12 -0500
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Repro W/Z manifolds- about time!
        The blueprints and dies are on there way to us from GM. We will
faithfully reproduce these with the correct dividers. The 69 guys will not
have the heatriser vavle. They will be firmly priced after we have the full
cost of casting them. We are hoping to keep them in the $225-250 per set.
They may be slightly higher. So don't hold us to this price. That is just
the goal we are trying to achieve. Nice used sets are going in this price
area or higher. It's just insane for two pieces of cast iron. More
information later this year.
Jim Chermack
=================

Damn! Now my stash of broken ones just lost all but scrap value! Well, almost.

Say, don't suppose you'd consider altering the design a bit to try to avoid
that pesky crack that always appears at the top of the center divider? Didn't
think so. Frankly, I'll be [pleasantly] surprised if they come out for anything
under $300/pr. We shall see.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 17:02:58 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Wanted: Dashboard woodgrain Appliques

John,

Originally, the Cutlass S did not come with the woodgrain applique. 
However, Supreme and 442/Hursts did.  It is a thin aluminum plate, that
has a raised bead around the surrounding edge.  It is
glued/double-sticky-taped to the dash.  You will need 3 pieces.  The
driver's side dash area, the glove box door, and ash tray door.

As far as anyone reproducing it, unfortunately, no one is.  The 70-72
part is completely different.  It's ok, though, there should be SOMEONE
with an extra set somewhere.  Try Jim Chermack at chermac@exis.net and
see if he has any.  I got some from him once, and he was very
reasonable.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 21:04:16 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '67 98 FS

Not a member; reply to keytohwy@staffnet.com if you're interested...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date:	Sun, 01 Feb 1998 09:56:34 +0000
From:	David McGee <keytohwy@staffnet.com>
Subject: 67 98 for sale

I have a 67 Ninety-Eight for sale.  Body in good shape.  Engine runs
like a top.  New tires, brakes, passed Virginia inspection last week. 
Needs paint, but otherwise great.  As you know, this baby floats down
the road!  There are certainly other specifics, but email me directly if
you have questions.  The car is located in Fredericksburg, VA.  Asking
$1000 or best offer.

DAVE

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1082
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