
oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, February 4 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1085



Re: regal hood swap?
Re: Super Shops
Re: Trivia
Re: To hell with the 200-4R's!
Dave Smith's 350 Olds-Powered Starfire
LA Junkyards & Parts for Sale
Exaust on 455
turbo on 455
455 rebuild, need decision help
"New" 1970 Cutlass project
Coil Spring cutting
Re: Tricarb 442 for sale
Re: converting to power seats
Put your car on the 'Net!
Re[2]: Wanted: Dashboard woodgrain Appliques
Re: Emissions questions-non-olds (sorta long)
Re: Tranny burning fluid?
Re: 455 rebuild, need decision help
Salvage Starfire in VA 
Re: Big Block "C" Heads
Re: heads & blocks available, mid-MI
70 E head chamber size?
Head interchangeability on 455
Re: RE Joined OCA
Re: RE Joined OCA
Re: LA Junkyards & Parts for Sale
Re: Exaust on 455
Coolant leak
Re: olds 442
Re: Exaust on 455
Vacumn line Help
Re: 70 E head chamber size?
Anybody out there?
Ad: - I'd like to hear from you.
A mountain of olds heads
Re: Emissions questions
Re: 70 E head chamber size?
Re: Crankscrapers
Re: Head interchangeability on 455
Re: A mountain of olds heads
Re: Exaust on 455
Re: 70 E head chamber size?
Door Panels
Re: A mountain of olds heads
Re: Coolant leak
Re: A mountain of olds heads
Re: Ford Tools
Re: Super Shops
Re: V8 Wanted In Midwest Region
Re: Howdy...
Re: FORD fuel problem

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 23:08:56 -0500
From: Gerald Hughes <ghughes@hughesconsulting.com>
Subject: Re: regal hood swap?

Chris,
	That's funny.  And True!

									Gerald Hughes

Chris Brown Witt wrote:
> 
> >         It's only a hood.  Take the 30 minutes to actually try it and stop
> > guessing.  Sheez.
> 
> And how many $$$ to buy it from the junkyard ~before~ you find out if it
> works????    :)   Charley Buehner --
> ===========
> BUY? Who said anything about BUYing it? If you're at the boneyard anyhow, just
> take a hood to the other kind of car, try it, note the results, and leave it
> there.
> --
> Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 23:15:20 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Super Shops

Lisa (and any other interested parties),

The two Super Shops stores in the Kansas City area have already closed. Don't
know when it happened, but there was no sale that was advertised. Guess I
won't be able to get any close-out deals. Bummer.

Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
<A HREF="http://www.chasinracin.com/racers/ksr7/index.htm">Ken Snyder Racing
Online</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 13:23:16 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Trivia

> Car Craft that the 307 was the last carbureted GM V8 to exist.  That's
> cool I suppose.

Hmm, Ray, I think you read something wrong.  Are you ~sure~ it was "Car
Craft"???  I can't see them printing something like that.  ~Everyone~
knows, at least according to car craft, that ch*vy 350's were the ~only~
engine to exist ever...  I just can't imagine them finally printing
something so remarkably close to truth!  :)

- -- 
               Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
		http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
		        Sidney Montana

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 13:36:17 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: To hell with the 200-4R's!

> adding of fluid, the trans was still 4(!) quarts(!!) low!!!  Now, it's all
> filled up ad shiftin strong again.  So, apparently I drove 2700 miles with
> a dehydrated transmission (please keep snide remarks to youself) and the
> TH350 laughed it off.  This transmission kicks ass and it has all of my
> respect and loyalty now.  

Must be an Olds thing.  When I first got the Rockit (fresh out of high
school, ~loooong~ before earning it's nickname) I got in a cat and mouse
game on main street in my hometown.  Instead of turning around in the
~normal~ manners, I'd found that keeping it floored and grabbing reverse
seemed to turn ~me~ around much faster than the rest of the cars
involved.  I musta done that a dozen times that night.  About 95K on the
car, and I changed the tranny fluid about 10K later.  Seemed to be it's
first filter change.  Couple years down the road, I was on a road trip
to my Mom's wedding, and blew out a cooler line in the North Dakota
Badlands.  I figured out what happened, and knew I was in trouble.  I
wrapped duct tape around the crack (*had to slow it down as mcuh as I
could*) and kept it balls to the wall till I hit the next town, sime 30
miles later.  I knew it was more a matter of time than speed before I
ran out of fluid, and ~dammit~ I wasn't walking!!!  Made it fine, put a
bandaid on at some 7-11 style gas station, and was just getting ready to
leave (two hours later) when my Mom showed up in her car.  (She was
getting hitched in her home town, 250 miles away, we both left about the
same time.  I made some time, you could say...)  A few years later, I'm
putting in the 403, and decide to use it's TH350 instead.  Mine was
starting to slip in 3rd--a little.  That was at about 150K.  Sure earned
my respect, too.  This ~new~ one had at least 100K on it, too.  It's
still fine, after the 455 and ~both~ 425's, and towing cars, etc...  The
engine, on the other hand....


- -- 
               Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
		http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
		        Sidney Montana

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 23:32:58 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Dave Smith's 350 Olds-Powered Starfire

Mike (and list co-conspirators),

I spent a lot of time around Dave Smith's shop back in the early 80's and
remember the Starfire being featured in Car Craft when it won "Best
Engineered" at the NHRA Winternationals in 1980 (it was already gone by the
time I was around his shop, replaced bt an equally powerful and successful
Trans-Am). Believe me, Dave had enough room in that engine bay to install on
of those DRCE blocks if they would have been available. 

The car was all tube frame construction, and didn't have the same front
suspension that the street Starfires had. 

I've thought of doing that (350 Olds) to my 80 Starfire, but I need great
mileage from my daily driver/parts chaser, since it runs over 50 miles a day
(average).

Maybe someday,

Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 21:11:21 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: LA Junkyards & Parts for Sale

Hans - my buddy in the high desert (Apple Valley, Ridgecrest, etc) has some
fair yards he goes through.  If your looking for something in particular,
let me know & I'll forward the note to him.  He just pulled off a straight
'67 C/S front bumper and some other asstd. parts, headlight buckets, other
front end pieces.

All for Sale!!!!!!  Drop me a note if anyone is interested.

Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://server.exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://server.exo.com/~jht/olds/oldsbbs/index.cgi

Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://server.exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 22:02:35 -0700
From: "Igor" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Subject: Exaust on 455

I am going to drop the 455 into a '81 Delta.  I need the car to be mobile
until I get it painted and do the interior.  For the time, I would like to
break the motor in and will mate it to the TH250 that is in the car until
all the work is done.  Now, I plan to put 2.5" dual exaust on it with
dynomax mufflers and no cat.  But, I am planing to be able to pay for that
after the body work is done.  The car currently has a brand new exaust that
was used by the 307 for a week.  It is a single 2.25" pipe, no cat, and a
Dynomax muffler.  It is not a restrictive exaust, but will it be too small
of a pipe for the 455 until I can afford duals?  Since I will fire-up and
drive the 455 for the first time with this exaust, I don't wan't to be
dissapointed. (you know what they say about first impressions)  So, will
the 455 perform decently with the single 2.25" exaust or should I not fire
it up befoure I install duals.  Thanks. 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 22:06:12 -0700
From: "Igor" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Subject: turbo on 455

Would it be possible to turbocharge the 455 (with 8.4 compression) and how
much power gain/cost/trouble would it be.  I am also MILDLY concerned about
fuel economy since the car is a high-way car for a good part of its use.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 22:04:01 -0700
From: "Igor" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Subject: 455 rebuild, need decision help

I am rebuilding a '76 455 to put into my 81 Delta.  The motor has been
completley dissasembled, cleaned and ready for reasembly.  My problem is
that I can't decide what to do about the bore and the pistons. The stock
pistons (which are 8.5) compression are in good shape.  The bore is also
good with no visible scratches or anything.  It does have a little rige or
a lip up top where the piston rings end ( I belive this is called a taper).
 I would really like to keep the stock pistons and bore as new pistons
would set me back $420.00 + $200.00 (for rebore and hone) Canadian dollars.
 This is as much as the whole engine would cost me to rebuid.  My question
is how much of a ridge is too much (it is not large at all).  I am not
expecting the motor to be a race engine but would like it to deliver a
punch to my 81 and to last a few miles.  Has anyone ever put new rings on
old pistons and how did it go.  The motor blew blue smoke out the tailpipe
(for 3 min) when it was started after 5 yrs. of sitting (old gas, oil,
etc.)  I suspect bad valve guides and old oil was the cause.  If  anyone
has any suggestions, please  tell me because I am about to buy new parts.
(i.e.  the only piston compression I can get if I change them is 8.4 and
10.1, I am thinking 8.4 too low if I am getting new ones but 10.1 too high,
what do you think)

Also, I will get a head job done on my heads and then I would like to port
them, but was told not to port the intake ports only clean up the exaust. 
What do you think.  The machinist said something about keeping the fuel
baffle.  I may also have then shaved a bit to increase compression.  How
much of an increase could I get.  I am also looking at a R.V. cam for low
RPM power couse I will run a stock 2:73 rear end, maybe go as high as 3:23,
but no higher.  The car will keep stock exaust manifolds (headers would not
fit the '81), but will probable have dual 2.5" exaust, no cats, and Dynomax
super turbo mufflers.  I would like to see about 300HP and as much torqe as
I can get, so I anyone can steer me in the right direction, please do
because I will get to work on it in a few days.  Sorry about the lengthy
post but I have not even adressed 5% of my questions.  I guess I am just
afraid
of the 455 being a dissapointment, so I need all the help I can get to make
sure
it is a good power-house that is better then the 307, on a low-buck budget.
 Thank you.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 10:43:28 -0800 (PST)
From: Dave Welsh <dlwels@yahoo.com>
Subject: "New" 1970 Cutlass project

First, a big THANK YOU to Chris Brown Witt for his help in securing a
great California body in the Midwest. My son and I made the trip from
Janesville, Wisconsin to Lansing on Saturday in hopes of finding a
good project body to transplant his 350 into.  His current '69 Supreme
is ready to fall apart around him, but still runs like a champ.  I'm
very happy to report that what we found at the end of our journey was
exactly as presented by Chris.  We now have an excellent car to finish
up and give Ryan the classiest ride at school.  He's one happy 16 year
old!

Now for the questions.  We have a great 1970 Cutlass sitting in our
shop with no engine or tranny (these will come from the '69).
Everything is in real good shape.  The frame is painted, but does show
a few spots of surface rust.  The brakes seem okay, but we haven't
checked them over completely.  The interior and body just need a
little spot work and clean up.  What should we work on between now and
engine transplant time to get everything ready?  What
modifications/upgrades should we consider when rebuilding the engine
and transmission.  Keep in mind, Ryan is only 16, has a job with
limited hours (and a girlfriend) that limit the funds for this
project.  I will help him out (if he lets me drive his car now and
then), but funds will be limited.

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again Chris.

Dave Welsh
Janesville, Wisconsin
1970 Cutlass S project on the way
1969 soon to be parts Cutlass Supreme




 

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 22:14:02 -0700
From: "Igor" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Subject: Coil Spring cutting

I would like to lower my 81 Delta by about 1.5 inches.  I will paint it
either black or metalic blue with white or silver racing stripes on it,
with a custom bilt small airdam and side skirts, so lowering the delta,
particuilarly in the front would give it that mean olds look.  So, since I
am on serious budget, I am wondering if I could cut the sprigs to lower the
car.  It would be cheap.  I would like to get a 1 to 1.5 inch shorter look
with a possibly 20% stiffer ride for handling ( I realize that this may not
be possible if I cut stock springs).  If I do cut the springs, how much can
I cut them without bottoming out and stuff like that.  The car has new HD
shocks as well as 255/60/15 BFG tires all around, so that may be something
to consider.  Thanks for the input.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 00:26:22 EST
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tricarb 442 for sale

In a message dated 98-02-02 20:58:51 EST, you write:

<< Don't want to buy the car, but where'd they hook up with the intake for
 > tri-power?  On a 400?  Does such an intake exist?
 >>
I have one for sale if your interested $1000.00 with carbs.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 00:43:59 EST
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: converting to power seats

In a message dated 98-02-02 20:32:18 EST, you write:

<< Well , It is me again! Thanks to everyone who emails me back. My questions
today are (1) has anyone ever changed the manual seat to a power seat in the
69 cutlass convertible, also I need the rear moldings that run from the door
to the bumper on top of both rear quarters in very good shape. I have just
tried a power track out of a 70 cutlass but it would not bolt up. Any one with
suggestions is always appreciative. Thanks again!! >>
I know on the 68-72 you need to add a bracket they sell them in YEAR ONE. And
they are the same for those years. $85.00 . How much did you pay for the pwr
rack im looking for one myself. joe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 00:51:53 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Put your car on the 'Net!

Hey guys (and gals),

I just wanted to offer anybody that had pics of their car the option of
posting the pics and some stats of the car on the 'Net if you don't have
a page.  I know quite a few are listed through Bryceman's page, but I
just wanted to let everyone know that I have a "Readers' Rides" section
on my page too if anyone's interested.  Drop by and have a look if ya
are.
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
Also if you have pics but can't get 'em scanned, I might be able to help
ya out.  E-mail me if you're interested.
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
468 BigBlock '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 98 23:40:42 GMT
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: Wanted: Dashboard woodgrain Appliques

Peter the CoupeKing wrote:

Mick-
I've noted the same problem with the '69 wood appliques, that nobody makes 
them!
But I also an ad on Bryceman's page from a fellow making the repro woodgrain 
pieces for the '68 Hurst Olds. Now, these are the same dashboards except that 
the '69 has applique and the '68 doesn't.

     Sorry, Peter, but there are two other differences.  First, the 68 has 
     the ignition switch on the dash, while the 69 has it on the column 
     (thus there will be a large, empty hole in the appliqué if you use the 
     68 piece on a 69).  Second, the 68 H/O woodgrain appliqué was real 
     wood, offered only on the H/O, while the 69 part was a metal stamping 
     with raised chrome edges and printed-on "woodgrain", similar to the 
     70-72 parts (but not similar enough to allow you to use the later 
     parts on a 69).

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 98 23:58:23 GMT
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Emissions questions-non-olds (sorta long)

Mike Rothe wrote:

I'm frustrated...My HC and CO are a bit high.  It could be due to too 
much advance in the distributor, or too rich at idle.  Would it help to 
back off the timing, thus keeping the exhaust hotter and cylinder 
pressures lower?  The steamer part is, I don't have emissions checking 
equipment to make the proper adjustments.  I'll probably have to take it 
to a shop for that. (Gulp!)

     Mike,
     
     I know the frustration.  Does Florida now have mandatory testing 
     for 1968 and newer (obviously it can't be the 20 year old rule for 
     a 1976 truck).
     
     When I lived in SoCal and my 442s were less than 20 years old (and 
     thus subject to emissions testing), I simply made sure that they 
     were correctly tuned (new plugs, points, cap, and rotor) and I 
     leaned the idle mixture screws and advanced the timing as much as 
     possible to ensure low CO and HC.  These cars fortunately were 
     sufficiently old so as to not require testing for NOX, as leaning 
     the idle mixture and advancing the timing obviously increases NOX.  
     I don't know whether your 76 truck requires NOX testing or not 
     (cars first had NOX limits in 73, but light trucks were phased in 
     later). If there is no requirement, I suggest the following:
     
     Use a vacuum gauge to lean the idle screws.  I usually turn them in 
     until the vacuum starts to drop off noticeably.  Care is required, 
     however, as too lean an idle can cause misfiring and thus increase 
     HC.  I also _advanced_ the timing as much as possible to ensure 
     complete combustion at idle.  Since there was no NOX requirement 
     for these cars, I would always pass with CO and HC levels 
     significantly below the requirements.  Note that this testing 
     (circa 1980-1987) was done in neutral without a dyno.  I don't know 
     how this will work on a loaded test, though there is _still_ no NOX 
     requirement for pre-73 cars.
     
     Have you considered temporarily installing a Q-jet for the 
     emissions testing?  I've never had much success tuning a Holley for 
     anything other than W.O.T.
     
I've heard about the trick of drilling a small hole in the throttle 
blades to aid air intake, and I was wondering if this would make any 
difference.  That's a trick usually reserved for big cams though.

     I always thought this was to allow enough air to pass by the 
     throttle plates to get the big cam to idle without opening the 
     throttle so far that you deactivated the idle circuit.  Never heard 
     of using this to help emissions levels.

     Good luck.  I hope this helps.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 98 00:42:32 GMT
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Tranny burning fluid?

S. Dave Ward wrote:

Well, here's something I've never seen before;  can a transmission actually 
*use* fluid?

     Uh, funny you should mention that.  The TH400 in my truck started 
     using fluid at an alarming rate (much faster than it had been leaking 
     fluid in the past), however there were no telltale ATF puddles under 
     the truck.  The only other solution is a ruptured diaphragm in the 
     vacuum modulator, which, of course, was the case in my truck.
     
     Fortunately, there's an easy test for this.  Jack the car up and 
     locate the vacuum modulator.  This is a cylindrical unit jutting out 
     from the side of your tranny case (on the TH350 and TH400 this will be 
     on the passenger side, don't know about other trannies) which will 
     have a vacuum line going into it.  Pull off the vac line.  If tranny 
     fluid drips out, you've found the problem - this line should be 
     completely dry.  The modulator has a vacuum diaphragm which can crack 
     with age, allowing tranny fluid to be sucked into the engine via that 
     vac line you just disconnected.  Replacement of the modulator is 
     required.
     
     Fortunately (see, this _is_ your luck day) replacement of the 
     modulator is easy.  Since the vac line is already off, simply remove 
     the single bolt and clamp holding the modulator into the side of the 
     tranny.  Pull the modulator out.  (OK, pull harder...uh, sorry about 
     that skinned knuckle...)  Insert the new modulator.  Replace clamp and 
     bolt.  Reconnect vac line.  Lower car, start, check fluid level.  
     Done.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 98 01:09:40 GMT
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: 455 rebuild, need decision help

I am rebuilding a '76 455 to put into my 81 Delta....The stock pistons 
(which are 8.5) compression are in good shape.  The bore is also good with 
no visible scratches or anything.  It does have a little rige or a lip up 
top where the piston rings end

     Yes, the ridge is a concern, as it means that the cylinder walls are 
     worn.  Only way to tell is to mike the cylinders and the pistons and 
     check piston-to-wall clearance and bore taper against factory specs.  
     Assuming the cylinders are worn but not tapered, one lo-buck (albeit 
     limited life) solution is to have the pistons knurled and remachined 
     to match the new cylinder diameter.  While not free, this will cost 
     less than new pistons and a rebore.  You _will_ need to properly hone 
     the cylinders to get the new rings to fit.  And, since the cylinders 
     will not be at a standard diameter, you'll require the next oversize 
     rings and hand filing of the gap.  One school of thought, however, 
     prefers knurled pistons as they tend to retain oil in the knurled 
     skirts and thus slow wear.  I can't say that I have any personal 
     experience with this, however.  And, of course, if the cylinders are 
     excessively tapered you _must_ have them bored oversize.

..the only piston compression I can get if I change them is 8.4 and 10.1, 
I am thinking 8.4 too low if I am getting new ones but 10.1 too high, what 
do you think)

     Rarely will you achieve the advertised compression ratio without 
     careful work.  As Chris Witt has pointed out in the past, today's head 
     gaskets yield a compressed height of about twice that of the original 
     factory gaskets, resulting in lower than advertised compression.  
     Without actually measuring the parts and calculating CR, you can't be 
     sure.
     
Also, I will get a head job done on my heads and then I would like to port 
them, but was told not to port the intake ports only clean up the exhaust. 
What do you think.  The machinist said something about keeping the fuel 
baffle.  

     An Olds motor definitely needs exhaust work prioritized over intake 
     work.  In addition, the exhaust ports should be polished smooth, while 
     the intakes should be rough to promote turbulence to keep the fuel 
     droplets in suspension in the air flow.  Note that in the latest issue 
     of National Dragster, Warren Johnson indicated that ideal exhaust port 
     flow should only be about 70%-80% of intake port flow as measured on a 
     flow bench.

I may also have then shaved a bit to increase compression.  How much of an 
increase could I get.

     Depends on the pistons - see comment above.  The only way to know for 
     sure is to measure everything (including combustion chamber volume) 
     and calculate compression ratio.  Note that Olds heads tend to run on 
     the high side of the volume tolerance as-cast (higher combustion 
     chamber volume=lower compression), so combined with the thicker head 
     gaskets, you could probably run those advertised 10:1 pistons on the 
     street with no problem (but don't quote me unless you run the 
     numbers).

  I am also looking at a R.V. cam for low RPM power couse I will run a 
stock 2:73 rear end, maybe go as high as 3:23, but no higher.

     Definitely work to optimize the motor for power in the 1500-4000 rpm 
     range.

  The car will keep stock exaust manifolds (headers would not fit the '81), 
but will probable have dual 2.5" exaust, no cats, and Dynomax super turbo 
mufflers.

     Note that the stock manifolds only have 2.25" outlets.

  I would like to see about 300HP and as much torqe as I can get, so I 
anyone can steer me in the right direction, please do because I will get to 
work on it in a few days.

     300 hp and 400+ ft-lb of torque sound like factory ratings for an 
     early-70s 455.  Should be very easy to achieve.

     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 01:23:18 +0500
From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Subject: Salvage Starfire in VA 

Scouted a junkyard and found a junked `66-ish Starfire holiday coupe that
someone may take interest in.  It was sad to find it there because it's a
complete car that probably could have been saved when it had first arrived a
the 'yard but now it has rusted into oblivion. :(  I looked it over and took
notes since I thought maybe someone could use parts or possibly even want
the whole car since there's quite a bit still good on it.  It still has most
of the trim as far as I could tell.  I'm not familiar with them so I don't
know for sure.  

It's located at a mom&pop auto repair shop that has a few dozen junk cars
hanging around.  It's in Pearsiburg, VA, a little bit off Route 460 and
maybe 25 miles west of Blacksburg.  The shop is called Doug's Auto repair,
and the phone # is (540) 921-3774.  The car's  VIN # is 4L068165.  I could
possibly  nab parts for someone if you tell me how to take them off and can
wait 'till the next time I make a trip out there.

Here's the rundown on what's left:

Exterior:

- -Most of the chrome pieces need rechroming.
- -All glass, glass trim and gutter trim present and in good contition.
- -Rocker panel trim up to front fenders and some of the front fender trim is
good.   
- -Hood spear trim is good.
- -Front fender vents.
- -Grille doesn't rattle and appears all there.
- -Driver side mirror.  No passenger mirror.
- -Radiator, unknown condition. (non-ac)
- -High compression 425.  Looks original & complete from pan to aircleaner.
Unknown condition.
- -What I could see of the drivetrain was unmolested, so it's safe to assume
the tranny is still there, but I couldn't see whether it was. (4 flat tires
and in the dirt)
- -sailpanel emblems intact
- -Driver door may still be good.  Straight with a couple of rust bubbles.
- -Both tailights are good.  Some of the OLDSMOBILE letters are missing from
the rear of the car and the trim is messed up from the trunk being opened
via crow bar.  Driver side running light is good.

Interior:
Complete as near as I can tell.  Everything in it has 11 years of dirt on it.

- -Bucket seats, need recovering but foam's not bad.  Nothing looked broken.
- -console is in good conditon.  Shifter looks complete but immoble, frozen
linkage?  Shift indicator glass is busted.
- -door panels are rough.  Armrests, door and window handles look salvageable. 
- -Apparently unmolested dash.  Vinyl is not cracked, all control knobs look
to be in place.  No visible rust.Beautiful "starfire" script still in place.
- -non tilt steering column with threaded rod attatched in place of turn
signal stalk.  Cracked wheel.
- -Wonderbar AM radio 
- -No AC
- -rear seat is good.  All of it's upholstery looks to be there but filthy.
Black vinyl.  Rear speaker grill in place and in good condition.

- --What wast too rusted,busted, or otherwise screwed up to be any good.---
Hood, front fenders, bumpers, decklid, quarters, floorboards, and hubcaps.
The trunk floor is pretty bad too.  It's apparently not rusted out though
since it's holding about 8 inches of water. :) 

I've got no idea on what prices for the parts would be, their main business
is car repair and the owner wasn't in so no one could tell me what stuff
goes for.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 01:55:11 EST
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: Big Block "C" Heads

In a message dated 98-01-29 01:52:04 EST, you write:

<< Hey you BB Smackheads,
 	
 	I have a pair of "C" BB heads that need to be redone.
 
 	I will accept $150.00 for them.  
 
 	They are not cracked, they just need to be redone.
 
 							Gerald Hughes
  >>
Where are you located ? do you know what cc chambers they are. And what size
intake valve. Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 01:56:26 EST
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: heads & blocks available, mid-MI

In a message dated 98-02-02 00:56:17 EST, you write:

<< There's a guy near St. Johns, MI who used to be a rebuilder. Selling his
large
 stash of heads, blocks, etc. cheap. I looked over the pile a yr or 2 ago,
found
 a K head, not much else. A few 455 blocks, of which I have plenty already.
  >>
Any D or H, heads

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 01:57:53 EST
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: 70 E head chamber size?

Anyone have info on chamber size on this head thanks guys

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 01:12:48 -0700
From: "Igor" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Subject: Head interchangeability on 455

I have a 76 455 from a Delta 88.  In the FAQ section of the homepage I read
that these are "Smog Heads" from 73 to 76.  If I were to get a set of heads
from a pre-73 455, will they be better and could I use them with my 8.4CR
pistons.  For example, about two weeks ago at a local junk-yard there was a
intact 72 Delta 88 with a 455.  I could have picked up those heads for $25
each (CAN).  If I run into a car like that again, should I get the heads
and replace mine with them.  Since I will do the head-job last, it gives me
a month or so to run into another pre-73 455 (not that easy).  Any
suggestions.  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 22:36:09 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: RE Joined OCA

>Did ya use the Internet form at the OCA Site;-) (Please say you did)
> Brad Nicholson (OCA's WebGuy)>


Not only did I use the internet form, but it printed out real nice too!
Cool web site, great job.  I included a link to the OCA site on my web page.

I'm looking forward to my new OCA membership.   Still waiting for the first
issue of JWO.    8>)

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
1995 Achieva S

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 08:18:53 EST
From: Bowtie911@aol.com
Subject: Re: RE Joined OCA

Good morning Brad. Went back and this time it worked. I don't know what I did
that was different. The application will be in the mail before the weeks end.
Thank you for your assistance.
Harvey Shaw
bowtie911@aol.com
1965 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 09:07:10 EST
From: DanD396@aol.com
Subject: Re: LA Junkyards & Parts for Sale

Need   windows & frames for 63 2dr Starfire .Dan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 10:44:22 EST
From: StafRT007@aol.com
Subject: Re: Exaust on 455

First of all, after being used to driving around with that little 307 under
the hood, how could a 455 be a disapointment?!  Sounds to me like you want a
reliable performance car, but seems like you're afraid to go too far.  Well it
really makes no sense to put a single exaust on ANY performance motor and
expect good results.  If you put your stock tranny behind that big block,
don't kid yourself into thinking it will last more than a week.  Mine lasted 2
days!  Granted, the motor I built is a little stronger than the one you
describe.  Also, having 2.73 gears in the rear (combined with that tranny) is
going to make your car puke when you hit the gas.  If you want to go fast,
then do it!!!  Don't try to combine GEO metro design theory with drag racing,
doesn't work!  I understand about not having a lot of money and needing your
car to get you around relaibly, most of us do.  But, you get out of a project
what you put into it.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 11:00:57 -0500
From: Darren King <dking@Legato.COM>
Subject: Coolant leak

After fixing the leak from the resevoir to my radiator, I
have found then every morning, about a tablespoon of coolant
on my garage floor.  It's under the engine block, not the 
rad.  Any clues as to what kind ove masive repair this will
entail (please, be gentle...)?

Oops the car is an '86 Custom Cruiser.  As an aside, anyone 
know what the knob on my passenger seat is?  Both seats have
3 controls on the side ( angle, forward / backward, up / down)
but the passenger seat has a knob that it looks like a handle
goes on.  Maybe it's a handle to swing the seat out?

thanks,

Darren King

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 10:48:02 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: olds 442

>See this olds 442, only $300.00
>
> http://iguana.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5209171

heh... At least I wouldn't have to worry about explaining to my wife where
we would be parking *another* car... :)
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 12:00:35 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Exaust on 455

Igor wrote:
>
> Dynomax muffler.  It is not a restrictive exaust, but will it be too small
> of a pipe for the 455 until I can afford duals?  Since I will fire-up and

I would definitely spring for the new exhaust.  I have a 1984 Cutlass with a 307 and I had a single
2.5" pipe going back to the crossflow muffler and when I had the front pipe replaced, he put on a
stock size 2.25".  I could tell a ~small~ difference in the performance, but that was with my
slow-flowing 307 SB.  I bet a big 455 would flow MUCH better with a nice 2.5" dual exhaust system.

+---------------------------------------------------------------+
|	__    ________						|
|	\ \  / __  __/	Jason Adcock				|
|	 \ \/ / / /	CS Major, Virginia Tech			|
|	  \  / / /	mailto:jadcock@vt.edu			|
|	   \/ /_/	http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/		|
|								|
+---------------------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 13:54:25 -0500
From: "Don McAlister" <andy89@digital.net>
Subject: Vacumn line Help

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BD30AB.3CA614A0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have a 1983 Cutlass with a 3.8 V6 engine. I need a diagram of the =
vacumn lines for this motor for the emission controls. Any help is =
appreciated.

Don McAlister
1983 Cutlass (soon to be running)

- ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BD30AB.3CA614A0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have a 1983 Cutlass with a 3.8 V6 =
engine. I=20
need a diagram of the vacumn lines for this motor for the emission =
controls. Any=20
help is appreciated.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Don McAlister</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>1983 Cutlass (soon to be=20
running)</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BD30AB.3CA614A0--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 14:07:48 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70 E head chamber size?

In a message dated 98-02-03 13:59:00 EST, you write:

<< Anyone have info on chamber size on this head thanks guys >>
The heads vary from 77 to 80 CC's.  So if you want compression, you can mill
the heads .060 saftly as long you are using roller rockers.
I milled a set of Ga heads .060 and after porting and polishing, I have now
74CC's.
Not bad for a pair of 72 smog heads.

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 13:42:28 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Anybody out there?

I haven't gotten any e-mail from the list since yesterday
morning...everybody still kickin'?

Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 14:24:37 -0500
From: Sent By <michael@itlent.com>
Subject: Ad: - I'd like to hear from you.

Hello, pardon the intrusion.  I don't like to get spam any more than the
next person, but my fiance and I have a new site on the net that we would
like to share with you and get your feedback.  <http://www.itlent.com/>

We are listed as ITL Enterprises and we offer special and unique products
over the web.  Our site is not the same old shopping site with the same old
boring stuff.  We have very unique and eclectic products.  Below is a short
list of what we have to offer.  



Vintage Traffic Lights - These are the real thing, red/yellow/green, that
have been removed from service.  These make great gifts and great
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Priority Start - This little device saves your car battery from ever going
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lights get left on accidently.

Wiscasset Baskets - These are handmade pine baskets from the great state of
Maine.  You just have to see them to appreciate them.

Go Light - These are radio remote controlled spot/search lights for
auto/emergency/marine use.  They are really something

Emergency Information Card - These could save your life or the life of a
loved one.  I was a fire fighter and have seen the anguish from automobile
and other accidents.  That's why we created these.  Please take a look!

Knitty Kitty - Handmade catnip toys for cats.  We have seven cats and they
all love playing with them.

Thanks you for taking time to give us a look and we hope that '98 will
bring many blessings to you.  <http://www.itlent.com/>

Sincerely,

Michael and Wendy

We give all the glory to God and thank Him for our blessings.
ITL Enterprises
<http://www.itlent.com/>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 16:17:03 -0500
From: Rotten <olds442@en.com>
Subject: A mountain of olds heads

 I have access to a hugh cache of Olds heads. They were bought em from Lubrizol
circa 1970.  I'm going on Friday to root thru em.  I'll be looking for "F" "D"
and "H" heads... are there any other castings worth a good buck or is that the
only 3?

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 16:43:03 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Emissions questions

Thanks to all for answering my question about emissions tests for the
502.  Even if it WASN'T an Olds.  Joe Padavano suggestion to try a q-jet
made sense, but unfortunately, the LS-6 intake that comes standard on
the 502 ONLY accepts a Holley/Carter type carb.  Maybe if I used one of
those Edelbrock jobs like someone suggested....The requirement for
testing is all vehicles 1975 and newer, and only in counties designated
by the state of FL that have "bad" air quality.  I got some of those
tricks now up my sleeve, so I'll let everyone know how it turns out, and
what I did to try and pass (hopefully).  Now my truck passes just about
everything but a gas station AND emissions tests.

P.S., it was easier to convince them it wasn't a newer engine than I
thought.  They have a rule that if you put in a newer engine, you would
be subjected to the ENGINE YEAR standards. OUCH!

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 17:19:08 EST
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70 E head chamber size?

In a message dated 98-02-03 15:42:47 EST, you write:

<< << Anyone have info on chamber size on this head thanks guys >>
 The heads vary from 77 to 80 CC's.  So if you want compression, you can mill
 the heads .060 saftly as long you are using roller rockers.
 I milled a set of Ga heads .060 and after porting and polishing, I have now
 74CC's.
 Not bad for a pair of 72 smog heads.
 
 W MACHINES (Mark Prince) >>
Thanks mark, im just looking to change them with something better.Im sure the
heads i have are small valve. I was thinking of going with c heads but im not
sure yet. From my info they range from 80-83CC's.And easy to find at a good
price.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 16:32:47 -0600
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Crankscrapers

One of the other benefits of the crank scraper is the reduction of
rotating mass of the crank.  With all the 20W50 or what ever your
favorite bug juice is (Mine is 0W30, worth while performance
improvement, year round!!), has a lot of weight.  The thinner the oil
the better (for HP).  When it is spinning at 5000+ rpm, it is pretty
heavy stuff.  Getting it off that crank is VERY beneficial.  Not to
mention all that oil being thrown around has the consistency of a
softball at 100+ mph and when it hits that crank after splashing, it
sucks a lot of power away from your drive wheels.  I have heard the
difference between the 20W50 and 5W30 is said to be about a softball vs
a golfball.

Good oil pans, (full baffles), Windage Trays and crank scrapers are all
ammo in the war to get every last ounce of HP to the rear wheels.

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 18:19:09 +0000
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Head interchangeability on 455

Igor wrote:
> 
> I have a 76 455 from a Delta 88.  In the FAQ section of the homepage I read
> that these are "Smog Heads" from 73 to 76.  If I were to get a set of heads
> from a pre-73 455, will they be better and could I use them with my 8.4CR
> pistons.  For example, about two weeks ago at a local junk-yard there was a
> intact 72 Delta 88 with a 455.  I could have picked up those heads for $25
> each (CAN).  If I run into a car like that again, should I get the heads
> and replace mine with them.  Since I will do the head-job last, it gives me
> a month or so to run into another pre-73 455 (not that easy).  Any
> suggestions.  Thanks.

This is an easy swap. Any BETTER head will do. You can use them with
your stock pistons unless you're going to be using some way far-out cam,
or your engine is tired and needs bored. It'll boost your CR and give
you a noticeable boost in performance.

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoft© Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 18:34:50 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: A mountain of olds heads

you should look for a good set of #5 #6 or #7. these are the better small
block heads.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 17:42:35 -0600 (CST)
From: Jeremy Lloyd Elder <jelder1@bigred.unl.edu>
Subject: Re: Exaust on 455

> 
> Igor wrote:
> >
> > Dynomax muffler.  It is not a restrictive exaust, but will it be too small
> > of a pipe for the 455 until I can afford duals?  Since I will fire-up and> 

When I first bought my '82 Cutlass it had what was I don't think 
anymore than two or two and a quarter inch single exhaust.  I left ran 
it like that for almost a year.  My car ran Ok with the small exhaust. 
The engine was and still is pretty tired. The sound now is a huge 
improvement with duals, but I don't know if the performance has seen 
major advancement though.  With a rebuilt engine I'm sure there's a 
bigger difference.
Another consideration you might make is the manifolds.  Can someone 
tell me if the W/Z exhaust manifolds really flow better.  The FAQ says 
they have 2.5" outlets which would allow for bigger exhaust.

Jeremy "Squawk 'Em Off" Elder
'82 Cutlass, 455
'86 'I hope the computer's not fried' Cougar

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 20:19:14 -0600
From: Patrick Derkacz <patrickd@wwnet.com>
Subject: Re: 70 E head chamber size?

AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Anyone have info on chamber size on this head thanks guys

Mine cc'd @ 82.

patrickd@wwnet.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 01:08:15 -0500
From: "Kerr, Brian (R)" <kerrb@basf-corp.com>
Subject: Door Panels

The door panels on my 69 conv are basically sound and not torn, but they got 
wet at some point and are badly warped and quite dirty with some yellowing. 
Does anyone have any one have experience with cleaning, rewetting and 
clamping to straighten these panels? I was thinking that after they were 
straight, or during straightening that I could soak a thinned out glue like 
material into the back of the fibre material that would harden, keep them 
straight, and possibly provide some moisture resistance. Any ideas?

Brian Kerr
69 Cutlass Conv

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 19:35:03 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: A mountain of olds heads

I'm going on Friday to root thru em.  I'll be looking for "F" "D"
> and "H" heads... are there any other castings worth a good buck or is 

Keep an eye out for C's and even E's.  While more common, they're still
desireable.  C's are about the best commonly available, but the '70 E's
are still quite useful to many of the smogger era drivers.  (If they're
cheap, why not grab all ya can, right?)

- -- 
               Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
		http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
		        Sidney Montana

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 98 22:30:11 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: Coolant leak

At 11:00 2/3/98 -0500, you wrote:
>After fixing the leak from the resevoir to my radiator, I
>have found then every morning, about a tablespoon of coolant
>on my garage floor.  It's under the engine block, not the 
>rad.  Any clues as to what kind ove masive repair this will
>entail (please, be gentle...)?
>
>Oops the car is an '86 Custom Cruiser.  As an aside, anyone 
>know what the knob on my passenger seat is?  Both seats have
>3 controls on the side ( angle, forward / backward, up / down)
>but the passenger seat has a knob that it looks like a handle
>goes on.  Maybe it's a handle to swing the seat out?
>
>thanks,
>
>Darren King
>

      The leak is quite possibly coming from a soft-plug in the block.  Not
a difficult repair at all.  Soft-plugs are inexpensive. Coolant is not.  If
you don't plan on doing the repair right away and you have determined that
it is in fact a soft-plug, you may consider using a lower pressure radiator
cap as long as you have a coolant overflow bottle on the system.

      Glenn
      '69 4-4-2 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 23:11:16 -0500
From: "Ulysses Melen" <Master-Stile@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: A mountain of olds heads

- ----------
> 
> 
> I'm going on Friday to root thru em.  I'll be looking for "F" "D"
> > and "H" heads... are there any other castings worth a good buck or is 
> 

I'm looking for H & G also.  Drop me a line if you gots!!  Good hunting..

Ulysses Melen
71 Cutlass S
85 Indy 500 Calais
92 Achieva

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 21:12:58 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: Re: Ford Tools

On Sun, 1 Feb 1998, Chris Brown Witt wrote:

>      Oh yeah, does anybody have an easy way of removing the
> radio/heater control trim on a 81-88 Cutlass without damaging it?
> Hopefully it won't involve a block of wood and a hammer :) (are you
> listening Chris?) John Pajak

I use one of those double ended scribes that came in the 5-pack specialty
tool bag from Sears.  (the sac with the antenna magnet, dentist mirror,
scribe, and two crew starters).  Anything that's bent 90 degrees at the
tip and is skinny enough to get in at the four corners will do.  I've had
the piece off many times and never broke it.

Ray since the car is running perfect, the stereo stopped working Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 21:15:33 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: Re: Super Shops

The one in Tucson is still open.  I picked up a Hurst shifter at 40% off.
Now, if I only had bucket seats and a console!  Very cool sale they have
going on, thanks all for the tip!

Ray since the car is running perfect, the stereo stopped working Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 21:17:38 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: Re: V8 Wanted In Midwest Region

On Mon, 2 Feb 1998, Joe Gerschutz wrote:

> I posted a similiar message to this but am writing again in case some 
> people missed it and I also have another question.  Does anyone have 
> a small block olds V8 in the midwest (OH) for sale or know of one?  I 
> am trying to find the best engine candidate for my car and would like 
> to explore all possibilities.  So far I have an offer for $350 for a 
> 403 plus another $100 for the TH400 with it.  Is this a good price?  
> Thanks for any responses. 
> 
> Joe


But that at once!  You could probably find a beter deal for the motor,
but throw in the trans with it and it's a great package!  The 403 is an
ass-kicking torquey murfer too!

> > 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> ---Joe Gerschutz------------------------------
> ---University of Dayton----------------------
> ---gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu--------
> --------------------------------------------------
> 

Ray since the car is running perfect, the stereo stopped working Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 21:31:24 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: Re: Howdy...

On Mon, 2 Feb 1998, John Stolarski wrote:

> Howdy all...after a brief hiatus, I am now back...
> I'm sure you all missed me so...
> 
> 
>   John Stolarski
> '86 Cutlass Supreme
>  The "Black Mariah"
> 
We miss anyone with a G-body!


> 
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
> 

Ray since the car is running perfect, the stereo stopped working Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 21:36:34 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: Re: FORD fuel problem

On Tue, 3 Feb 1998, Esko Ilola wrote:

> Chris Sparks wrote:
> > Well in So. California the gas is $1.31 for 92 octane!  Boy are we getting
> > ripped off out here!
> 
> Finland:
> Unleaded 	95E  3.98

Well, now that my compression's up to 10.5:1, I run a mix of 92/100
octane.  The 92 is 1.299 and the 100 is 3.999!!!  Mind you, it is like a 8
to 1 mix though.  Still, it sucks!  

> 			99	 4.12
> 
> I'm talking here dollars/gallon
> 
> That's not ripping, it's a rape.
> 
> -- 
> x----------------------------------------------------x
> x Esko Ilola       mailto:esko.ilola@tele.fi         x
> x                  mailto:esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi x
> x                   phone:+358 2040 3439             x
> x Oldsmobile 98 -64 4DHT  Holiday sports sedan       x
> x "Where the action is...."                          x
> x----------------------------------------------------x
> 

Ray since the car is running perfect, the stereo stopped working Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass 

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1085
*********************************

