To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1031


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, December 29 1997      Volume 01 : Number 1031



UNBOUNCE: Repair/Resto Q's
Bad Vibrations
Re: non-performance question? 69 442 auto trans
Window Moldings (was Re: FE2 Suspension Package)
Re: Back!
Re: Bad Vibrations
Re: FE2 Suspension Package
Re: Window Moldings (was Re: FE2 Suspension Package)
Re: Oil questions/gas question/how much is it worth?
Re: Oil questions/gas question/how much is it worth?
re:What did Santa leave you!
Re: Spoiler/W-30 Red inner fender wells
Olds history in my family
Re: UNBOUNCE: Repair/Resto Q's
Re: Bad Vibrations
Re: Bad Vibrations
Spoiler on Reilly's '86 Cutlass...  (Re: What did Santa leave you!)
Re: Basic? Tech info...
subscribe oldmobile
Re: Back!
FWD: 66 F-85 4dr For Sale
Re: 80' Cutlass Supreme
Re: non-performance question? 69 442 auto trans
Re: non-performance question? 69 442 auto trans
Re: 80' Cutlass Supreme
Re: Back!
Oil Consumption (was Re: Back!)
Re: 80' Cutlass Supreme
Re: 80' Cutlass Supreme
RE: This mo.'s JWO
Need 69 8*track housing measurments
Compliments
Re: putting headers on the '70 442
1991 toronado
Re: Brake lines
Re: Oil Consumption (was Re: Back!)
new acquisition
new acquisition
RE: non-performance question? 69 442 auto trans
RE: non-performance question? 69 442 auto trans
RE: What did Santa leave you!
RE: Ignitor Electronic Ignition
Noise
Trans. Replace or Rebuild?
RE: Noise
Shift kit installation
Re: Oil questions/gas question/how much is it worth?
Re: Oil Consumption (was Re: Back!)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 17:09:30 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Repair/Resto Q's

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:earthsci@pop.usit.net
Subject: Questions about repairs/restorations: '68 through '72 Cutlass
  cars

I'd like to get some input and hopefully personal experiences regarding the
number of hours required (and associated costs) in performing various
repairs on these cars, assuming such work is performed by someone with
adequate experience.

I know that some repairs such as rust repair/patching can only be estimated
on a car per car basis, but what about complete part (i.e. quarter panel)
replacement?  Such as:

quarter panels
floor pans
trunk pans
trunk/hood
seat covers
door panels
carpeting
headliners
conv. top
brakes
fuel line
gas tank
wiring

Any input is appreciated.  Thanks in advance.


earthsci@usit.net


earthsci@usit.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 16:00:49 -0500
From: Brian Richardson <brian.richardson@mci.com>
Subject: Bad Vibrations

I've got a ' 72 442 (open diff) that vibrates (slightly) at about 75 mph
and up. Does fine up til 75. Sort of feels like it coming from the rear.
Any explanations? What should I look at?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 16:16:15 -0500 (EST)
From: The Sugarmans <sugarman@berkshire.net>
Subject: Re: non-performance question? 69 442 auto trans

On Sat, 27 Dec 1997, AARONLIFE wrote:

> << e chirping did come from the use of the shift kit which probably was
>  removed when rebuilt. Sounds to me that the tranny is falling apart.
>  Doesn't sound like you got a good rebuild to me. It will only get worse
>  from here, so another proper rebuild is in order. >>
>
> he claimed to have left the shift kit in, and it will still chirp a little, 
as
> long as I don't floor it, it seems to malfunction under full throttle only,
> except for that slow speed behavior.  sigh.
>


It's my recollection that the rebuilder said the insatllation of the shift
kit involved drilling out plugs to support new fluid passages.

Is this likely true?

Don
(Aaron's dad)

sugarman@berkshire.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 17:15:20 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Window Moldings (was Re: FE2 Suspension Package)

On Sun, 28 Dec 1997, Boogah wrote:
> Also, any advice on removing the rear window mouldings? I am going to
> reseal my rear window and dont want to f*** up the chrome trim pieces.

You should get the tool designed for this. Sort of a T-shaped thing with
little hooks or ears on either end of the T. It slides under the molding
and you slide it along until it contacts one of the molding clips. Then
you can pull the clip away from the molding and in theory it should pop
off.

I say "in theory" only because I have had lots of trouble with these
clips. Seems like either the clip itself breaks due to rot or the rivet
holding it to the body has rusted and the whole thing comes off. You can
get replacement clips and they can be screwed in rather than riveted.
Either way they are a source of water leakage so it's important to give
them some attention.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 16:35:23 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: Back!

Lloyd W. Culp wrote:


> A quart of oil per 900 mi isn't so bad.  The leak surely was a part of that.
> I recall that in 1963 a Plymouth dealer told a complaining customer that a
> quart every 1000 mi on a new car was very normal.  I would guess that this
> applied to "real" cars too.

At National, the average is about a quart every 1500 to 3000, all
motors, all makes, not mandatory (no rules about it, it just is) and
when they start seeing 28,000 it's more into the 1500, to 2000 per
quart...  But those are BEAT new motors, all of 'em...  <G>

- --
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 16:36:50 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: Bad Vibrations

Brian Richardson wrote:
>
> I've got a ' 72 442 (open diff) that vibrates (slightly) at about 75 mph
> and up. Does fine up til 75. Sort of feels like it coming from the rear.
> Any explanations? What should I look at?

First thing I'd look at is tires....  Some of the off brand tires don't
do real well above 75.  I'd check to see if they were balanced right...
May clear it up...
- --
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 17:29:39 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: FE2 Suspension Package

Boogah wrote:

> Was
> wondering if someone out there who has a vehicle with the FE2 (1972 442)
> could let me know the diameters of the front and rear stabilizer bars on
> their car.

No, don't have one, but I do have the '72 Olds factory assembly manual
that gives some information on this matter.

Stabilizer Shaft and Bushing Usage:

Stabilizer      Stabilizer      Bushing
  Part ª         Diameter        Part ª      Group      Models

398499             .937         388294        3G        32, 36, 4200
                                                        except 4267

399924             .970         388294        3G        4267
                                              35FE2     32, 36, 4200
                                                        coupes only
                                              35F41     32, 36, 4200
                                                        except 4267

401194            1.000         388924        3G        4800

Rear Stabilizer Shaft part ª394926, no other specifications given.

> Also, will putting the heavy duty springs on my Cutlass Supreme (350
> engine) raise it significantly?

According to the assembly manual, an A body coupe with 24 lbs of air in
the front and rear tires would have a front ground clearance of 10.25
and a rear ground clearance of 10.05.  The front measurement is made at
the bottom front corner of the door.  The rear measurement is taken
64.10 rearward from the front measurement.

An A body coupe with the F41 suspension option would have clearances of
10.75 front and 10.55 rear.

An A body coupe with the FE2 suspension option would have clearances of
9.81 front and 9.68 rear.  FE2 and F41 springs, while both are heavy
duty, are not the same springs.

Service specifications will be .20 lower than these clearances to allow
for normal settling.

Understand?

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 17:34:00 -0500
From: Don Sugarman <sugarman@berkshire.net>
Subject: Re: Window Moldings (was Re: FE2 Suspension Package)

What ever you do, don't twist the reveal molding removal tool, or
whatever you try to use.

I did that and started a crack at the edge of the windshield that worked
it's way across the whole windshield.  I figure you can do the same
thing to the back window.

Good luck.
Don

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> On Sun, 28 Dec 1997, Boogah wrote:
> > Also, any advice on removing the rear window mouldings? I am going to
> > reseal my rear window and dont want to f*** up the chrome trim pieces.
>
> You should get the tool designed for this. Sort of a T-shaped thing with
> little hooks or ears on either end of the T. It slides under the molding
> and you slide it along until it contacts one of the molding clips. Then
> you can pull the clip away from the molding and in theory it should pop
> off.
>
> I say "in theory" only because I have had lots of trouble with these
> clips. Seems like either the clip itself breaks due to rot or the rivet
> holding it to the body has rusted and the whole thing comes off. You can
> get replacement clips and they can be screwed in rather than riveted.
> Either way they are a source of water leakage so it's important to give
> them some attention.
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 16:43:09 +0000
From: Michael Slocum <mslocum@shrike.depaul.edu>
Subject: Re: Oil questions/gas question/how much is it worth?

A quart of oil every 900 miles seems like alot to me but it's been 10 years
since I had a REAL car. I'm used to changing 4 quarts every 4500 on my now sold
93 Civic SI.

I think I've found a winner. A '72 Cutlass/350 rocket for $1500. Actually, I
negotiated the price down 1/2 on the phone and I haven't seen it yet. What
should I look for. What should I be concerned about.

And, what kind of oil should I use. Do I still use 10w40 in summer and 5w40 in
winter.

Also, is there a way to convert it to run on unleaded gas instead of having to
use lead additives?

Lastly, are parts easily found(both maintanence and restoritive)? Are there
clubs/magazines that I can tap for new body parts exc.?

As you can tell I have many questions as does my wife. She's worried that it
will be a money pit and I'll kill myself.

Kids are crying, thanks.

Mike Slocum
potential 72 Cutlass owner
Chicago



Jerry Christopher wrote:

> Lloyd W. Culp wrote:
>
> > A quart of oil per 900 mi isn't so bad.  The leak surely was a part of 
that.
> > I recall that in 1963 a Plymouth dealer told a complaining customer that a
> > quart every 1000 mi on a new car was very normal.  I would guess that this
> > applied to "real" cars too.
>
> At National, the average is about a quart every 1500 to 3000, all
> motors, all makes, not mandatory (no rules about it, it just is) and
> when they start seeing 28,000 it's more into the 1500, to 2000 per
> quart...  But those are BEAT new motors, all of 'em...  <G>
>
> --
> - Jerry Christopher
> - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
> - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 18:21:35 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Oil questions/gas question/how much is it worth?

Michael Slocum wrote:
>

> I think I've found a winner. A '72 Cutlass/350 rocket for $1500. Actually, I
negotiated the price down 1/2 on the phone and I haven't seen it yet. What
should I look for. What should I be concerned about.

Well, let's start out with what to look for.  First thing I would do is
to check everywhere for rust, particularily the rear wheel housings in
the trunk, the trunk itself, the floorpan, rockers, etc.  Although front
fenders are important they are a bolt on item.  These other places are
where the pain (re money) is.  You should also check around the base of
the rear window for evidence of rusting.  While underneath, you need to
check the frame and areas where the body connects to the frame.
Anyplace where the paint is bubbled, you probably have rust coming
through from the back side.  Not good.  Now rust around the mouldings is
not desired, but is reasonably repairable as long as it is surface rot.
You will probably find some rot around the chrome mouldings on the
quarterpanels as this is a pretty normal spot for it to occur.  Then you
to check the mechanical aspects of the car.  How does it drive/stop?
Does it smoke when it starts and/or as it runs?  Is the engine
abnormally noisy or making strange sounds?  Is the suspension good?
What does the interior look like?  Is the exhaust system overly noisy?
If you are going to use it for a driver whild working on it, you need to
check it out like you would any other potential purchase.  But if you
are concerned about originality of the driveline, you need to check each
component for numbers.  If you check the Olds FAQ section on Bryceman's
web site, this is probably addressed much better than I can.

> Also, is there a way to convert it to run on unleaded gas instead of having 
to
use lead additives?

If the engine is an unmodified 72 motor it should require NO additives
as it was designed to be run on unleaded fuel. If additives are
required, you need to double check the motor and trans numbers if
originality are what you are after because something has been altered by
someone somewhere.
>
> Lastly, are parts easily found(both maintanence and restoritive)? Are there
clubs/magazines that I can tap for new body parts exc.?

You are already hooked up to one of the best places you can go for
assistance.  Somebody on this list knows something about anything you
need to know about these cars.  Most knowledgeable group of people I've
found on Oldsmobiles.  Other places you can dig would be Hemmings, some
of the old car magazines, etc.  Mike Rothe(a list member) and a few of
the others have a web ring connected to their sites you might also find
helpful.
>
> As you can tell I have many questions as does my wife. She's worried that it
will be a money pit and I'll kill myself.

Any car/house can be a money pit.  I have one or two of those myself
over the years (a 77 Vette comes to mind quickest) and will probably
have one or two more before I'm done.  Haven't had one in a Cutlas yet
though.

Whatever you pick, it is necessary to remember a 72 is 25 years old and
will not be a new car.  Of course a 93 is newer but not necessarily what
everyone would want anyway.  If I could pick between a new 1970-72 442
conv and the equivalent of today's iron, they would be passing me the
keys to the 70-72.  I like the lines better and the look better.
Besides, everyone doesn't have one.  :)

Good luck in your search.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 18:27:37 -0500
From: "deirdre. reilly" <102724.635@compuserve.com>
Subject: re:What did Santa leave you!

I seemed to have done pretty well this Christmas for car stuff also.

Set (4) of new coil springs from PST
Set (4) of KYB Gas adjust shocks
Air Lift suspension bags
Remote keyless entry system w/ remote power trunk release
2 Hallmark '69 H/O ornaments
ArmorAll detailing kit and some other detailing odds and ends


I bought my brother a rear spoiler from a Firebird for his '86 Cutlass.  We
just finished putting it on this morning.  It's a tight fit but looks real
nice!  He also got a tune up and is getting his driver side door hinge
fixed.

I'm glad everyone had a happy and safe holiday, and it looks like there
will be alot of better looking and running Olds riding the streets come
springtime.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'83 Cutlass Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 18:59:27 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Spoiler/W-30 Red inner fender wells

- -----Original Message-----
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, December 26, 1997 5:46 PM
Subject: Spoiler/W-30 Red inner fender wells


>Found a spoiler from a Ralleye 350, slightly cracked he said, asking
$100
>New/unused repro fender wells for 70-72 W-30 asking $250
>
>I must be going car crazy because i've been thinking of putting the
spoiler on
>the back of my convertible like on some of the GTO's.  Probably ruin
the
>lines.


Aaron,
If you like the spoiler, go for it. It's your car, you can do what you
want. Actually, I think the spoiler enhances the lines of the 69 conv.
I have one on mine (it's white too.). You can see it at my web site
link below. The car was this way when I bought it and I was intending
to restore it correctly. The more I looked at it, the more I liked it.
I came to the conclusion, that, what's the point of a concours
restoration, if you want to drive and enjoy the car.

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S convertible
OCAª 29770
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 18:45:52 -0500
From: "deirdre. reilly" <102724.635@compuserve.com>
Subject: Olds history in my family

Some people have posted what Oldsmobile other members of their family have
owned over the years.  I just found out that my grandfather and father used
to own Olds.  Starting in '64 up until he passed away several years ago my
grandfather drove some pretty cool Olds:

'64 F-85
a '68 or '69 Delta 88
an early 80's Delta 88
two Cutlass Cieras during the late 80's early 90's
and probably one or two more somewhere inbetween

my dad used to own a '70 Cutlass Supreme, 350 w/4bbl

So it seems Oldsmobiles run in my family too.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'83 Cutlass Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 18:42:08 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Repair/Resto Q's

- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, December 28, 1997 9:07 PM
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Repair/Resto Q's


>
>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>From: earthsci@pop.usit.net
>Subject: Questions about repairs/restorations: '68 through '72 Cutlass
>  cars
>
>I'd like to get some input and hopefully personal experiences regarding the
>number of hours required (and associated costs) in performing various
>repairs on these cars, assuming such work is performed by someone with
>adequate experience.
>
>I know that some repairs such as rust repair/patching can only be estimated
>on a car per car basis, but what about complete part (i.e. quarter panel)
>replacement?  Such as:
>
>quarter panels
>floor pans
>trunk pans
>trunk/hood - Approx. 1 hr each mostly for adjiusting. You will need a buddy
to handle these large pieces.
>seat covers - Depending on seat style (a pair of buckets will take longer
than a bench seat) & your expertise as well as any restoration of the foam,
expect to take a half day for each seat.
>door panels - If you have new ones w/the metal already attached, this can
be done in a half hour each.
>carpeting - removing the seats is the hard part as well as the clean-up.
Any floor work will prolong this effort.  Expect a couple ofhours for this.
>headliners - Again, expertise is a deciding factor.  Expect a half day for
this job.
>conv. top - Expertise is imperative here.  This job will take the weekend
easily.
>brakes - If you have the experience, it can be done in a couple of hours.
If not expect to take all day.
>fuel line - These can be bad.  An hour might do it & it may take all day if
you have to bend everything.
>gas tank - This is an hour's job if you are prepared w/everything.
 >wiring - This job can be a very long project.  Expect all day for many
things.
>
>Any input is appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 18:43:31 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Bad Vibrations

Look at tires, wheels out round, drive shaft, & universal joint.  Also
consider trans bearings.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible



>I've got a ' 72 442 (open diff) that vibrates (slightly) at about 75 mph
>and up. Does fine up til 75. Sort of feels like it coming from the rear.
>Any explanations? What should I look at?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 19:39:57 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Bad Vibrations

I would first check the lbs of air in the tires and make sure there
all at the same correct level, then check for bumps or wear in the
tire, I used to get a nasty vibration at 70 mph in my 77 Cutlass and
traced it to a bulg in the back side of my BF-Goodrich's, if those
dont cut it, I would bring them into an alignment place and get a
checkout of it and see if there is any problems there, otherwise, has
the car ever been hit? If so, might be frame damage you were unaware
of starting to take its tole, my friend works at a body shop and told
me some stories where they make it look real nice after an accident,
but the frame is slightly off, and creeps after years of driving, uh,
especially if you do alot of doughnuts..:) Hope this helps.


> I've got a ' 72 442 (open diff) that vibrates (slightly) at about 75 mph
> and up. Does fine up til 75. Sort of feels like it coming from the rear.
> Any explanations? What should I look at?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 20:41:00 EST
From: CRuper1 <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Spoiler on Reilly's '86 Cutlass...  (Re: What did Santa leave you!)

In a message dated 97-12-28 18:39:34 EST, you write:

<<

 I bought my brother a rear spoiler from a Firebird for his '86 Cutlass.  We
 just finished putting it on this morning.  It's a tight fit but looks real
 nice!  He also got a tune up and is getting his driver side door hinge
 fixed.

 Bill Reilly >>

I'm interested in hearing about this spoiler you "grafted" onto the '86
Cutlass, from a Firebird.  What year Firebird, what type of spoiler, where is
it from, etc.  Also, are you going to have any pics. of it on your webpage so
we can "approve" of it. :-)

Thanks,
Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 21:28:46 EST
From: NotDads442 <NotDads442@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Basic? Tech info...

I always use the highest octane I can get, usually 91-92.

Regarding the trans fluid. I've changed mine to Mobil 1.  I only use syn. oils
in the our W41.  I was truly surprised to find that the recommended fluid in
the manual transaxle is 5W-30 motor oil.  I switched to Mobil 1 and noticed
that the car shifted smoother, especially when it's colded.  I know, I know...
I can hear all of you now.."You've actually driven your car when it's cold
Cecil?"  ;-) Well, recently just to back it out of the garage and then back
in. :-)

Cecil Smalley
1991 W41
OCA ª29604

In a message dated 97-12-27 13:30:18 EST, W-MACHINES@prodigy.net writes:

<< What kind of gasoline do you use in your Q-4 H.O. motors? Do any of you use
 any 104+ octane booster on a regular basis? Is it me or does this thing
 only run best on Sunoco 94?

 Also, since this is the first one of these I've owned (with 150k miles),
 and the water pump isn't belt driven, has anyone had a waterpump fail? What
 does it sound like, or what would the symptoms be? I don't suspect any
 problem, just want to know, I just changed the belt and discovered what may
 be obvious to most!

 Also, what about changing the transaxle fluid? Hasn't been done as I'm
 aware, sure woudn't seem to be a bad idea, but the book says it's not
 necessary. Any thoughts?

 Thanks,
 Jon Casey
  >>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 21:05:13 -0600
From: "Dr. D.A. Branch" <tree@datasync.com>
Subject: subscribe oldmobile

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I hope I am on the correct website to receive information on Oldmobiles. =
I have a 69 Olds Cutlass S convertible that I am in the process of =
restoring.
Thanks Dennis A. Branch Sr.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
E-Mail: tree@datasync.com
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 18:26:13 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Back!

Lloyd W. Culp wrote:
>
> A quart of oil per 900 mi isn't so bad.  The leak surely was a part of that.
> I recall that in 1963 a Plymouth dealer told a complaining customer that a
> quart every 1000 mi on a new car was very normal.  I would guess that this
> applied to "real" cars too.

Gosh.  When I had my 77 C/S, it burned very very little oil.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 23:09:50 -0500
From: Rich Inacker <rinacker@voicenet.com>
Subject: FWD: 66 F-85 4dr For Sale

Gang,

Got this lead on email off of my web page. Please respond to the aol.com
address directly if you're interested or need more information.

- -----------------
66 F-85 4 door, light green & white, original paint, no rust, 170,000+, one
owner, always garaged & maintained in So. Fla..  Needs new door seals &
torsion trunk bar.  Car has been sitting in garage for over a year.   Sell as
is.  $2,500 obo. Car is located in Stuart, Florida (about 30 miles north of
West
Palm Beach). info: DASTEQ@aol.com
- -----------------

Rich

- -----
rinacker@voicenet.com (Rich Inacker)
http://www.voicenet.com/~rinacker

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 23:55:02 -0600
From: senator@itis.com (Robert F. Newbegin Jr.)
Subject: Re: 80' Cutlass Supreme

On Dec. 25, at 8:00pm, j8342 writes:

>sorry guys,
>
>     It's really a 1980 Olds Cutlass Supreme, the guy had told me it was a
>1981, but on the title when I was reading it, it's really a 1980.
>Oh well, it's still a really nice car, and I like it a lot all read., I'm
>suprised by all the responses I have got on my post so quickly,
>Thanks!
>
>A couple questions:
>
>The VIN is:  3R47AAM558995  could anyone translate that for me please?
>
>Also, I am thinking about painting it.
>
>It has the white Canvas stuff on the top, if I remove that is it like the rest
>of the car under it?
>Is it the same metal that is on the rest of the exterior?


Well, I got out my Haynes book (pronounced: Bible) and it tells how to
decode the VIN.  The first number (3) is the 'Manufactuer's identity
number.  This means nothing.  The second one (R) is the series.  The third
and fourth digits (47) is the body style.  The fifth one (A) is the engine
code (AHA!!), The sixth digit (A???) is the last number of the model year
(this makes no sense on your VIN.  Did you type it in correctly?)  and the
last six numbers are the unit number (000001 was the first to roll off the
lines, etc.)

My Haynes book also tells me that the A (your engine code) means that it
your car was built with a V6 (231 CID or 3.8L, however you like it).

You said you had a 350 in it?  It may or may not be and Olds. engine, and
if it is an Olds. engine, it's not the original carb. for that engine.
(Olds never made a 350 with a 2-barrel.  Chev. did.)  E-mail me the number
on the carb.  It might be hard to find, so look very closely, esp. on the
driver's side.  If it's a Rochester (probably) it will have two rows of
numbers and letters.

We are in a similar situation, trying to identify engines.  I have a
smmooooooth 1978 Cutlass Supreme W-19 with what I think is a '77 350.  I'll
tell its story in a different post, though.  Good luck in your task.

Bob Newbegin Jr.
'78 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 00:01:20 -0600
From: senator@itis.com (Robert F. Newbegin Jr.)
Subject: Re: non-performance question? 69 442 auto trans

On Sun, Dec. 28 '97, sugarman@berkshire.net wrote:
>On Sat, 27 Dec 1997, AARONLIFE wrote:
>
>> << e chirping did come from the use of the shift kit which probably was
>>  removed when rebuilt. Sounds to me that the tranny is falling apart.
>>  Doesn't sound like you got a good rebuild to me. It will only get worse
>>  from here, so another proper rebuild is in order. >>
>>
>> he claimed to have left the shift kit in, and it will still chirp a
>>little, as
>> long as I don't floor it, it seems to malfunction under full throttle only,
>> except for that slow speed behavior.  sigh.
>>
>
>
>It's my recollection that the rebuilder said the insatllation of the shift
>kit involved drilling out plugs to support new fluid passages.
>
>Is this likely true?
>
>Don
>(Aaron's dad)
>
>sugarman@berkshire.net

Oh, NO!! As far as I know, the shift kit is a couple or three gasket type
things that you stick in the transmission from the bottom.  The box (of the
shift kit, in the store) says that you don't need any special tools for the
installation.  Drilling holes in your automatic trans?  I have never heard
of doing this (although my auto. trans. experience is limited).  It takes a
rocket scientist to understand those things, and I would strongly recommend
getting a second, and possibly a third and fourth opinion.

Bob Newbegin
'78 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 00:11:40 -0600
From: senator@itis.com (Robert F. Newbegin Jr.)
Subject: Re: non-performance question? 69 442 auto trans

On Sun, Dec. 28 '97, sugarman@berkshire.net wrote:
>On Sat, 27 Dec 1997, AARONLIFE wrote:
>
>> << e chirping did come from the use of the shift kit which probably was
>>  removed when rebuilt. Sounds to me that the tranny is falling apart.
>>  Doesn't sound like you got a good rebuild to me. It will only get worse
>>  from here, so another proper rebuild is in order. >>
>>
>> he claimed to have left the shift kit in, and it will still chirp a
>>little, as
>> long as I don't floor it, it seems to malfunction under full throttle only,
>> except for that slow speed behavior.  sigh.
>>
>
>
>It's my recollection that the rebuilder said the insatllation of the shift
>kit involved drilling out plugs to support new fluid passages.
>
>Is this likely true?
>
>Don
>(Aaron's dad)
>
>sugarman@berkshire.net

Oh, NO!! As far as I know, the shift kit is a couple or three gasket type
things that you stick in the transmission from the bottom.  The box (of the
shift kit, in the store) says that you don't need any special tools for the
installation.  Drilling holes in your automatic trans?  I have never heard
of doing this (although my auto. trans. experience is limited).  It takes a
rocket scientist to understand those things, and I would strongly recommend
getting a second, and possibly a third and fourth opinion.  However, I
might be completely wrong.  I only pay attention to GM Turbo-HydraMatic
trans. related stuff, and I don't know what the 442 uses.  If it's not a
TH-350 or TH-400, you might want to ignore everything I just said.

Bob Newbegin
'78 Cutlass Supreme

P.S. - You do know how to check to see what kind you have, right?  If its a
TH-350, it looks rectangular with a corner missing, and probably has 350
stamped on the fluid pan.  The TH-400 has a really irregular fluid pan with
13 bolts.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 00:27:01 -0600
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: 80' Cutlass Supreme

- -----Original Message-----
From: Robert F. Newbegin Jr. <senator@itis.com>

>(Olds never made a 350 with a 2-barrel.  Chev. did.)

They made a lot of 350's with 2 bbl. carbs. From '68 to the mid to late '70s

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 00:38:34 -0600
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: Back!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
>
>At National, the average is about a quart every 1500 to 3000, all
>motors, all makes, not mandatory (no rules about it, it just is) and
>when they start seeing 28,000 it's more into the 1500, to 2000 per
>quart...  But those are BEAT new motors, all of 'em...  <G>
>

I guess I'm lucky that Laurie's 40k mile '93 Grand Am (3.3 V6 no Q4 :) uses
no oil at all especially since I use synthetic oil in it. On the other hand
I've got my truck ('89 GMC 135k miles) that lately has been leaking a quart
every 500-700 miles but considering it has a Chevy engine I should be glad
it's lasted this long :).

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 01:34:58 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Oil Consumption (was Re: Back!)

Jerry Christopher wrote:
>
> Lloyd W. Culp wrote:
>
> > A quart of oil per 900 mi isn't so bad.  The leak surely was a part of 
that.
> > I recall that in 1963 a Plymouth dealer told a complaining customer that a
> > quart every 1000 mi on a new car was very normal.  I would guess that this
> > applied to "real" cars too.
>
> At National, the average is about a quart every 1500 to 3000, all
> motors, all makes, not mandatory (no rules about it, it just is) and
> when they start seeing 28,000 it's more into the 1500, to 2000 per
> quart...  But those are BEAT new motors, all of 'em...  <G>

Really?  I know that all engines use some oil, but are you sure that's
accurate?  (I'm not doubting your knowledge at all, I'm just a little
surprised...)

The '85 DRB (307 Y) uses the least oil out of the three...at the 5000km
mark (2800 miles), it's only down an eighth of an inch on the dipstick.
I use conventional 5w30, and no "wonder bulls**t" additives...it's at
roughly 180,000km.

The '78 D88 (350) is just the same;  when it's due for an oil change
(5000km/2800mi.), the level is down a quarter of an inch, and this is
with 5w30 semi-synthetic, and the occasional bottle of Wynn's 'tune-up
in a can'...this one is just shy of 190,000km.

My truck uses the most oil out of them all.  At 3000km, I have to add
500ml, and this is only after frequent "abuse", such as pulling a double
snowmobile trailer, while the box is loaded with firewood.  I considered
this to be bad;  the equivalent of a quart every 6000km (3500).  It
doesn't smoke at all...(can't say what the plugs are like...never seen
'em!...same with PCV valve)...

What really burns my *ss is that it never used a *drop* of oil (less
than '85) until I tried a 1/2 bottle of Duralube...

- ------------------------------------------
S. Dave Ward  (mailto:ward@ptbo.igs.net)

'78 Delta 88 Royale (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 R.B.   (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC Sierra 4x4  (305 TBI)

(Ennismore, Ontario, CANADA)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 01:41:50 EST
From: BIG JERMES <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 80' Cutlass Supreme

In a message dated 97-12-29 00:58:58 EST, you write:

<< I have a
 smmooooooth 1978 Cutlass Supreme W-19 with what I think is a '77 350.  I'll
 tell its story in a different post, though.  Good luck in your task. >>

hey there, bud.  i also have a '78 cutlass.  do tell about your car!  id
definately love to see any pictures you have, if any.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 07:52:37 -0500 (EST)
From: The Sugarmans <sugarman@berkshire.net>
Subject: Re: 80' Cutlass Supreme

On Mon, 29 Dec 1997, Daren & Laurie Hendley wrote:

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert F. Newbegin Jr. <senator@itis.com>
>
> >(Olds never made a 350 with a 2-barrel.  Chev. did.)
>
> They made a lot of 350's with 2 bbl. carbs. From '68 to the mid to late '70s
>
> Daren
>
>

I'll second that.  My gold '69 Cutlass S 2-door, with black vinyl top,
purchased new from the dealer, had a 350 w/ 2 bbl.  Man we loved that car!

Don



sugarman@berkshire.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 97 07:57:33 -0500
From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Subject: RE: This mo.'s JWO

>From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
>Subject: This mo.'s JWO
>
>The latest JWO is out...
>Nice article on GM's web presence, and coming next month is a feature of:
>Lisa Masden's web site!
>[their "speeling", Lisa!]
Chris,
Thanks for the kind words but excuuuuuuse me.  I take all credit for
misspelling Lisa's name ;-), Penney just does a cut and paste, hoping that
I can spell.  Try doing a spellcheck on anyones last name and you'll howl
at what comes up sometimes.  A friend of mine's last name is Crondor, and I
once got Condom as the correct spelling!

Anyhow, I will be doing Lisa's site next and it WILL NOT BE A CRITIQUE!
just informational.  Should be in the Feb issue and the OCA Site Feature
Link also.  Later.
 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson (OCA WebGuy)
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - Newest Chapter of OCA
(W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov   (H) brad442@erols.com
Personal Web Page - http://www.erols/com/brad442
OCC Web Page - http://www.erols.com/brad442/occ
OCA Web Page - http://www.erols.com/brad442/oca

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 08:34:56 -0500 (EST)
From: Frank Iezzi <fiezzi@freenet.columbus.oh.us>
Subject: Need 69 8*track housing measurments

Hello fellow Olds fans!
Hope everyone is enjoying a happy and safe holiday season.
Santa brought me a 12 disk CD changer for the trunk of my 69 Cutlass,
but I need a place for the "interface" to mount - I then thought of how
the 8*track housing could be used for this.  Can someone give me the
measurements?  I had e-mailed Jim Chermack, but rec'd no answer (could
someone forward his e-mail address also)
Thanks so much
Frank Iezzi
Columbus OH
69 Cutlass 'S'

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 06:48:27 -0700
From: Gary Manton <sasgmm@unx.sas.com>
Subject: Compliments

I know that we on occassion have bashed companies for their inept customer
service, but this time, I would like to compliment Bill Fuller at Classic
Auto Parts in Tucson, AZ.  I had bought an engine from him and was feeling a
little ill that it was not running properly, so he, yes I said he, drove two
hours to come see me and take a look at the engine.  It is running much
better now that he has put his magical fingers on it.  His yard is basically
of classic cars, and he has done strip racing and showing of vehicles.  I
would highly recommend him if you are in need of something.  His number is
520-574-0308.
          \\|//
          (o o)
~~~~~~oOOo~(_)~oOOo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Gary M. MantonSAS Institute
Business Solutions DivisionPhoenix, AZ  85012
(602) 265-1616 ext. 230 - voice        (602) 265-8585 - fax
(888) 982-4079 - Pager

"In business as in life, your chances of being run over are doubled
if you stay in the middle of the road"
~~~~~~oooo~~~~~oooo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 09:11:57 -0500
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: putting headers on the '70 442

I've got Hooker Comp headers on my 455.  I think they are 3902, which fit the 4
sp cars..  Easy to install, requires removal of the oil filter mount.
No problems with durabililty or leaks, or overheating the starter, etc.  I'm a
big fan of headers.

Todd Morris
71 442



oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca on 12-26-97 01:33:58 PM
Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ internet
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ internet
cc:
Subject: putting headers on the '70 442


Thanks everyone for you info on the lip for the hood!

I'm putting headers on the 442, since it needs a new exhaust anyway.
Does anyone here have any experience with headers for a 455, and more
specifically, how easy it is to fit them into a 442?  I wanted headers
that would make a lot of torque (tri-y headers?).  Does anyone know of
a company that makes headers that wont cost me more than the rest of
car?

Thanks bunches,

Ed




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 09:27:00 -0500
From: "James D. West" <cherokee@shelbynet.net>
Subject: 1991 toronado

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BD143B.EA6119A0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Having problems with the digital dash display.  Works fine sometimes, =
next time nothing except the tach.  All info is remembered, just no =
display.  Display will come on eventually, maybe while sitting at =
stoplight (no bumping or jiggleing - not a loose connection).  When =
display is out, so is heater/air/fans/auto temp display.

Any help appreciated.  I bought the factory repair manual ($90), but not =
much help.  Probably need a source for used/good computers for dash.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BD143B.EA6119A0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3Dªffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 size=3D2>Having problems with the digital =
dash=20
display.&nbsp; Works fine sometimes, next time nothing except the =
tach.&nbsp;=20
All info is remembered, just no display.&nbsp; Display will come on =
eventually,=20
maybe while sitting at stoplight (no bumping or jiggleing - not a loose=20
connection).&nbsp; When display is out, so is heater/air/fans/auto temp=20
display.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 size=3D2>Any help appreciated.&nbsp; I bought =
the factory=20
repair manual ($90), but not much help.&nbsp; Probably need a source for =

used/good computers for dash.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BD143B.EA6119A0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 09:35:12 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@leadbelt.com
Subject: Re: Brake lines

Chris Sparks wrote:
>

>He was telling me at Christmas time that he spent $1800 on replacing
>his brake lines and doing a brake overhual.  Does this sound excessive?
>

I suppose it depends on what exactly "brake overhaul" means, but on the face
of it, YES.

Roger Hitson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 11:20:29 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: Oil Consumption (was Re: Back!)

Dave Ward wrote:

> > At National, the average is about a quart every 1500 to 3000, all
> > motors, all makes, not mandatory (no rules about it, it just is) and
> > when they start seeing 28,000 it's more into the 1500, to 2000 per
> > quart...  But those are BEAT new motors, all of 'em...  <G>
>
> Really?  I know that all engines use some oil, but are you sure that's
> accurate?  (I'm not doubting your knowledge at all, I'm just a little
> surprised...)

Like I said, that's about the average for a rental car...  I work at
National, and went from cleaning the cars, to a mechanic...  When I
cleaned cars, part of the servicing of the cars was checking the oil...
You be surprized how many I dropped a little oil in...

Now, to National Car Rental, a car needs oil when it is not even with
the top full line.

> My truck uses the most oil out of them all.  At 3000km, I have to add
> 500ml, and this is only after frequent "abuse", such as pulling a double
> snowmobile trailer, while the box is loaded with firewood.  I considered
> this to be bad;  the equivalent of a quart every 6000km (3500).  It
> doesn't smoke at all...(can't say what the plugs are like...never seen
> 'em!...same with PCV valve)...

That's what rental cars go through...  Unfortunately, there are nothing
I can think of more that take a harder beating than the Rental cars.
It's sad to see a 98 Bonnevile with 3,400 miles on it, come in with a
blown motor. Or a 27,000 Mile Cutlass that needs new shocks.
- --
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 11:13:13 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: new acquisition

List members,

I picked up a 67' coupe on Sunday. It has a 71' 350 with a TH400 - console
- - buckets - 442 hood - drum/drum - PS/PB - 3.23 posi - some rust in trunk
but
quarters and fenders are sound; rare in the North East. Blue repaint is
fresh.

I paid $2600.00

The question is how much did I over-pay for the only 67' I have seen in
the
area for under $5000.00 ?


The General

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 11:13:13 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: new acquisition

List members,

I picked up a 67' coupe on Sunday. It has a 71' 350 with a TH400 - console
- - buckets - 442 hood - drum/drum - PS/PB - 3.23 posi - some rust in trunk
but
quarters and fenders are sound; rare in the North East. Blue repaint is
fresh.

I paid $2600.00

The question is how much did I over-pay for the only 67' I have seen in
the
area for under $5000.00 ?


The General

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 11:33:51 -0500
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: non-performance question? 69 442 auto trans

Well, generally one would use what he has. If you bring your unit to a
reputable shop to rebuild I see nothing wrong with using the on one you
have, except that your car will out of use for a while. If you get
another tranny you could at least drive around.

One thing that comes to mind is that you mentioned he re-used the shift
kit. If memory serves correct, when I did my tranny the shift kit
required the use of certain check balls and some removed to give that
quick snap effect of 1st to 2nd gear. I wondering if the guy installed
that shift kit properly. Guys that usually rebuild trannies are not very
knowledgeable when it comes to performance oriented products, but can
reproduce things well to original states. That's my experiences. To date
I have had my tranny rebuilt accordingly, however I installed the shift
kit when I brought the tranny home. Unless you want to take the valve
body off the tranny and check the shift kit installation, I'm not sure
what else you can do, except go with another rebuild and a new shift
kit. That way you are 100% for sure. Good luck, let us know what
happens.

Fernando Proietto
A/Manager
Systems Analyst - Informatics Division
Environment Canada
Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
4905 Dufferin St.
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: AARONLIFE[SMTP:AARONLIFE@aol.com]
> Sent: Saturday, December 27, 1997 10:49 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: non-performance question? 69 442 auto trans
>
> In a message dated 97-12-27 22:27:44 EST, you write:
>
> << e chirping did come from the use of the shift kit which probably
> was
>  removed when rebuilt. Sounds to me that the tranny is falling apart.
>  Doesn't sound like you got a good rebuild to me. It will only get
> worse
>  from here, so another proper rebuild is in order. >>
>
> he claimed to have left the shift kit in, and it will still chirp a
> little, as
> long as I don't floor it, it seems to malfunction under full throttle
> only,
> except for that slow speed behavior.  sigh.
>
> you mean have this one rebuilt, not replace the whole trans, right?
>
> thanks,
> aaron
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 11:41:30 -0500
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: non-performance question? 69 442 auto trans

If the kit is a true shift kit then there's more to the kit that only
the plates. If the kit is a shift improvement kit then the plates  that
come with the kit make up 90% of it. The drilling occurs depending on
what type of performance you want from the tranny.

If you are looking for mediocre performance then you install the plates
and that's it. If you want that chirp from 1-2 then you will have to
drill out an oil passage in the plates provided, NOT THE TRANNY. A few
checks have to be removed. I recommend that you check the shift kit
install first before you think of rebuilding. It maybe installed
correctly but it may not be the option you want. Although the not shift
properly on full throttle does not sit with me . Even if the kit was
installed with out the plates being drilled the tranny shouldn't behave
like that.

Fernando Proietto
A/Manager
Systems Analyst - Informatics Division
Environment Canada
Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
4905 Dufferin St.
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: senator@itis.com[SMTP:senator@itis.com]
> Sent: Monday, December 29, 1997 1:01 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: non-performance question? 69 442 auto trans
>
> On Sun, Dec. 28 '97, sugarman@berkshire.net wrote:
> >On Sat, 27 Dec 1997, AARONLIFE wrote:
> >
> >> << e chirping did come from the use of the shift kit which probably
> was
> >>  removed when rebuilt. Sounds to me that the tranny is falling
> apart.
> >>  Doesn't sound like you got a good rebuild to me. It will only get
> worse
> >>  from here, so another proper rebuild is in order. >>
> >>
> >> he claimed to have left the shift kit in, and it will still chirp a
> >>little, as
> >> long as I don't floor it, it seems to malfunction under full
> throttle only,
> >> except for that slow speed behavior.  sigh.
> >>
> >
> >
> >It's my recollection that the rebuilder said the insatllation of the
> shift
> >kit involved drilling out plugs to support new fluid passages.
> >
> >Is this likely true?
> >
> >Don
> >(Aaron's dad)
> >
> >sugarman@berkshire.net
>
> Oh, NO!! As far as I know, the shift kit is a couple or three gasket
> type
> things that you stick in the transmission from the bottom.  The box
> (of the
> shift kit, in the store) says that you don't need any special tools
> for the
> installation.  Drilling holes in your automatic trans?  I have never
> heard
> of doing this (although my auto. trans. experience is limited).  It
> takes a
> rocket scientist to understand those things, and I would strongly
> recommend
> getting a second, and possibly a third and fourth opinion.
>
> Bob Newbegin
> '78 Cutlass Supreme
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 11:44:15 -0500
From: "VanSant, David CWO" <DVanSant@lantd5.uscg.mil>
Subject: RE: What did Santa leave you!

Well I guess that I was a very good boy this year.  Mrs. Claus left me
one over-sized box next to the tree.  When I opened it, with much glee
was a pair of Doug Thorley Ceramic headers for my '71 Cutlass.

>----------
>From: Mike Hall[SMTP:oldsmike@flash.net]
>Sent: Friday, 1997 December, 26 20:05 14:21
>To: Olds
>Subject: What did Santa leave you!
>
>Santa was VERY good to me this year...
>
>As I am finishing up my stocking, I find a tiny scrap of paper, so very
>tiny at the bottom of my stocking. I read the letters neatly scribed: AIR
>COMPRESSOR
>
>Joy of Joys!
>In the garage sits a brand new Black Max 5 hp, 20 gallon horizontal roll
>around air compressor!
>
>Ahhhh, the joys of marriage, I *MUST* have been a good boy this year!
>
>
>Michael R. Hall: OCA ª17903                    Ortonville, Michigan
>Home E-Mail: oldsmike@flash.net
>The Ever-Growing Oldsmobile Stable:
>1971 Oldsmobile 442
>1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
>1987 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Custom Cruiser
>1991 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight Royale Broughm
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 11:46:15 -0500
From: "VanSant, David CWO" <DVanSant@lantd5.uscg.mil>
Subject: RE: Ignitor Electronic Ignition

Lloyd,

I've been using the Ignitor Electronic Ignition for over a year without
any problems.  But to be honest, I keep a set of points and a condenser
in my glove box "just in case".

>----------
>From: Lloyd Ferguson[SMTP:ferguson@1stnetusa.com]
>Sent: Friday, 1997 December, 26 17:50 14:21
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Ignitor Electronic Ignition
>
>I was flipping through my Year One catalog (page 13N) and came across an
>electronic inginition conversion kit for points typr distributors.  It
>appears as if they replace the points with an electronic module and they
>show another piece which may go under the rotor to provide trigger.
>
>Has anyone used this or have any comments one way or the other vs
>installing an HEI system?  One downside I could see is that if it failed in
>the middle of nowhere it would be more difficult to find parts for than HEI.
>
>
>Lloyd Ferguson
>ferguson@1stnetusa.com
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 08:46:21 -0800
From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Subject: Noise

I recently got a ticket for my car being to loud.  It is running blown
glass packs, but the glass packs have been on the car before any "noise"
laws.  I can prove that my car had these muffelers for the previous
owners.  Is there any way for me to get out of this one?  Oh yea, I'm in
California where everything is against old cars.
Thanks
Brad
70 442
Loud '57 Chevy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 09:50:31 -0700
From: Tom Starkey <tstarkey@pop.dnvr.uswest.net>
Subject: Trans. Replace or Rebuild?

Hope all had a good start to the holiday season!

I've got a 68 Cutlass Supreme (350, 4 barrel) with a 2 speed automatic
transmission, I don't know any more about it than that. This thing leaks
transmission fluid like crazy, I've replaced the pan gasket and didn't
even slow it down. Other than leaking fluid, it seems to work alright.

I don't want a race car, just a daily driver that sounds nice and could
maybe go from stoplight to stoplight a little faster than most. My
question is, should I rebuild the existing transmission or should I
replace it with something else? Estimates to have it rebuilt run from
$450 to $650 dollars. One option I thought of was to try to install a
"seal kit" myself, does anyone have any experience/recommendations on
that?

Thanks!
Tom Starkey

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 12:00:04 -0500
From: "VanSant, David CWO" <DVanSant@lantd5.uscg.mil>
Subject: RE: Noise

Brad,

The California Noise Abatement Laws have been on the books for over 40
years and it does not target "old" cars.  While you didn't say what make
glass-pack you had under your car, but glass-pack mufflers only last
about a year on a daily driver before they blow out.  Thrush makes a
"Hush" and "Turbo" variety and DynoMax has their "Afterburner" muffler
which will still give you that nice low growl while keeping John D. Law
off your back and out of his ticket book.

>----------
>From: Brad Bowles[SMTP:wolds@napanet.net]
>Sent: Monday, 1997 December, 29 11:46 14:21
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Noise
>
>I recently got a ticket for my car being to loud.  It is running blown
>glass packs, but the glass packs have been on the car before any "noise"
>laws.  I can prove that my car had these muffelers for the previous
>owners.  Is there any way for me to get out of this one?  Oh yea, I'm in
>California where everything is against old cars.
>Thanks
>Brad
>70 442
>Loud '57 Chevy
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 12:16:34 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Shift kit installation

All the talk about shift kits has got me thinking.

How does one install a shift kit?

Do they make one for a THM-200C?
- --
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 12:09:41 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Oil questions/gas question/how much is it worth?

In a message dated 97-12-28 17:52:23 EST, you write:

<< Kids are crying, thanks.
  >>

When I was a kid, I cried when my parents SOLD their 69 cutlass.

aaron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 12:09:58 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Consumption (was Re: Back!)

In a message dated 97-12-29 01:47:02 EST, you write:

<< What really burns my *ss is that it never used a *drop* of oil (less
 than '85) until I tried a 1/2 bottle of Duralube... >>

Supposedly those products improve initial HP and gas mileage which is why race
car drivers use them.  According to what I've read, Slick 50's own tests
found, over-time, that engine wear is increased!  Which is why race-car
drivers don't mind using it, and recommend it - short term it works wonders.
It also supposedly plugs up oil filters.

I put Slick 50 in after my engine was rebuilt :(.

aaron

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª1031
*********************************
