To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1093


oldsmobile-digest     Tuesday, February 10 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1093



Subject: Miscellaneous...
RE: Convertible Boot
re: take me off your span list
Re: NEED A CARB!
1966 442 tail light bezels
Re: Stuff For Sale
Lighting Rods in a 72
Intake Manifold Gasket (was Re: Oil Pan Gasket Replacement)
WEATHERSTRIPPING
Lucille... RIP
Re: The "Olds"-Files
[none]
HEI
Re: '76 production totals
Re: Boxed Lower Control Arms
Re: Inter Active Car Show
Lansing Video
Re: 1966 442 tail light bezels
RE: Vote for Jason
WTD: Air Cleaner - Rochester 4GC Carb
Paging Steve Dietrich
Re: Stuff For Sale
Re: 88/98 parts for sale
Re: cylinder ridge
68 442 400 Stove wanted!
Re: Sad day for me
Re: '76 production totals
Robert Schinkel
Cam help
BUY DOUG NEWMAN"S VIDEO!!!
what stuffs weigh
email
330 project
water pumps
Motor mounts
about milling
Re: Lighting Rods
69 conv. antenna pcs, misc stuffs
W-30 High Bid $32,000!!
Re: 76' Production totals
Re: Boxed Lower Control Arms
Re: Header debate (blackjacks)
Vote for an OLDS(S)
? for a Michigan OCA member
tall valve covers /w alt. bracket???
COPS!!!!!
window tint
Re: Wires ?
Shake, rattle, and slap. (Kinda long but please help)
Re: 307 Timing

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 11:18:13 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Subject: Miscellaneous...

>1) Just a note to say that we have just brought home a new Olds. A 1998
>Silhouette GLS, 4-door. A luxury barge for the wife and all the amenities
>that anyone could ask for... Very happy with it so far aside from the
>HUGE sticker shock! The 91' Eighty Eight was traded in since the
>maintenance curve was darn near vertical. Things that needed repair
>included the transmission, belt tensioner, water pump and harmonic
 [snip of description of a money-pit]

Geez, I think I'll clip and save this for my wife, who sometimes laments
that we don't have a "newer" car... You could buy a nice classic for the
price of the repairs on that car's transmission alone! Keep us updated on
how you like that Intrigue. I saw one at the car show here in Providence,
and it seemed pretty nice. Still, though, a nice used Aurora is tempting
(they seem to be in the $17,000-$20,000 range, and falling).

>2) Anybody out there spray there intake after bead blasting to protect
>that clean aluminum look? Let us know what you have used?

I used the clear-coat from Eastwood (forget the name at the moment) on my
new Edelbrock aluminum intake on the 403; it's dirty, but not oxidized, and
the heat doesn't seem to have affected it.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Feb 1998 23:46:17 -0500
From: "Kerr, Brian (R)" <kerrb@basf-corp.com>
Subject: RE: Convertible Boot

 >I have a convertible boot for a '71 cutlass for sale.  It is black vinyl,
like
>new - $20 + shipping.


Saw this post, reminded me that a member in my club is looking for a boot
for a 69 Cutlass - Black
Any leads contact kerrb@basf-corp.com.  If you dont hear back from me in a
day, try again as alot of messages are getting bumped on me.Thanks

Brian Kerr
69 Cutlass Conv

(by the way, I need an off white boot for 69 Cutlass too)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 00:35:51 -0500
From: "Kerr, Brian (R)" <kerrb@basf-corp.com>
Subject: re: take me off your span list

Watch it buddy boy! Some of us drive/own and wrench on more than just olds.
Granted my 83 F150 4X4 w/ 4.9L inline 6 doesnt exactly snap my neck on
acceleration, but it gets me to work and back, in and out of hunting/fishing
spots, hauls my snowmobile, ice hut, and olds parts, trailers my olds
between workshops and has been my cheapest transportation yet! Of course,
olds doesnt make a 4X4 that I can afford...on the other hand all ch*vy shots
are welcome.....

Brian Kerr
69 Cutlass Conv
83 F150 4X4

 ----------
From: Michael
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: re: take me off your span list
Date: Saturday, February 07, 1998 5:19PM

        Now now, lets not be too tough on him.  He's probably a wandering
Ford owner that simply can't deal with the reality of Olds tourque
superiority, ya know?  Or more painful yet...maybe he's a Camaro owner
having flashbacks about Olds tail lights....hehehe

john foster wrote:

> well don't let the door hit you in the ass on the way out.
>
> people like this $ª%& head really piss me off.there is no reason to cop
> an attitude. and if you remember correctly the very first message sent
> when you first joined was how to get out of the club.its not our fault
> he can't read.
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 98 12:05:29 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: NEED A CARB!

At 13:47 2/8/98 -0500, you wrote:
>My '71 442 needs a new carb (q-jet). If you have an extra, please e-mail
>me.
>The threads at the the opening where the fuel filter goes are stripped
>out.  Since this is part of the casting,  I don't see how if can be
>fixed.  Of course, I could be wrong.  If I am, tell me how.
>--

       Any good auto parts store will have the repair kit for this specific
application.

   Glenn
   '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 09:04:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Doro Pedroza <dpedroza@yahoo.com>
Subject: 1966 442 tail light bezels

Need information on where I can order a new set of tail light bezels
for a 1966-442.Thanks.                           Doro Pedroza 1966 442




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 11:10:42 -0800
From: "mr. coy d. arbogast" <coyster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Stuff For Sale

I need a set of hood hindges for a 68 olds 442.
Good Shape.
Thanks Coy

- ----------
> From: Robert Schinkel <docbob@caninet.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Stuff For Sale
> Date: Sunday, February 08, 1998 8:05 AM
>
> PLEASE
> E me direct and
> I'll get back to you A.S.A.P
>
> Robert Schinkel
> docbob@caninet.com
>
> 1968
>
> Hood Hinges                                                $35
> 442 Air cleaner                                             $75
> 3 sp. console (standard shift) looks like a 4 sp. console       $275
> C casting heads  (complete)                         $175
> Convertible top cylinders                              $30 ea.
> Conv. Top latches                                           $30.pr
> Conv. Vent windows with frames good chrome   $60.pr.
> Reverse light lens good condition                     $10
> Rear defroster Switch                                      $20
>
> 1969
>
> 442 Grills exc.                         $190
> Wiper switch                            $40
> Radio plate (uncut)                   $20
> Rear defroster Switch & wiring   $25
> Plastic headlight frames            $75
> Vacuum trunk switch                  $25
> Taillight lens and some housings  $15 ea
>
> 1970
>
> Tail light lens (Cutlass)            $12 ea
> Tail light lens (Supreme)         $15 ea
> Nos fender script "Cutlass"      $30 ea
> Nos Horn Contact (sport wheel)      $20 ea
> Nos 442 emblem sets (both sides, front tooth and trunk lid)  $225
> F85 fender script         $30 pr.
> Ashtray Doors                                $10
> Dash Plaques (Plastic around gauges W/ wood grain)      $20
> 70-72 Cutlass wagon dash pad  Black (No Vent Holes)   $150
> Conv. Visors w/mirror pad BUT no mirror  Black           $50.pr.
> 455 heads E casting                       $150
> Convertible Top Switch                  $60
> Convertible Top switch Bezel          $25
>
> 1971 & 1972
>
> 442 Grills good condition (with 442 emblems)      $200
> Auto Console (Tan)                                           $90
> Nos headlight frames(plastic)         $75 pr.
> Front bumper directional lens         $10 ea.
> Tail light lens                                 $12 ea.
> 71-72 Rocker Chrome good/c            $60 a set
> T handle  (that opens hood)                   $10
> Ashtray Doors                                            $10
> Dash Plaques (Wood Grain area around gauges)  $10
> 71-72 sport mirrors w/brackets                                        $60
> Seat belt shoulder harness,   plastic hangers                   $15.pr.
>
> Shipping is extra
> Robert Schinkel
> docbob@caninet.com
> 1970 442 Convertible
> 1970 Cutlass W- 31 4 gear
> 1970 Rallye 350
> 1970 Cutlass Convertible ( 13.4 et)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 14:24:19 EST
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Lighting Rods in a 72

Anyone put these babies in a 70-72 using the stock console. I have a 700R4 in
my 72 that i cant manualy shift using the stock his/hers. Can only get it down
to second.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 14:32:35 -0500
From: Jim Hurd <jhurd@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: Intake Manifold Gasket (was Re: Oil Pan Gasket Replacement)

> I check the oil level often, and I'm never low. I'm just so impressed
>with my little 307.  The only problem so far has been the
>aluminum intake gasket (in the front, like everyone else's!).
>
>
>+---------------------------------------------------------------+
>|__    ________|
>|\ \  / __  __/Jason Adcock|
>| \ \/ / / /CS Major, Virginia Tech|
>|  \  / / /mailto:jadcock@vt.edu|
>|   \/ /_/http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/|
>||
>+---------------------------------------------------------------+
>

        Gee, and here I thought I was special.  I have noticed my coolant
level dropping very slowly.  After about a week without seeing any physical
evidence of it leaking (other than the level dropped) I finally started to
see teaspoon sized puddles on the ground.  At first I thought it was the
water pump, but it looked like it was leaking between the pump and were it
mates to the block.  I got a long screw driver in there to knock away some
of the goop, and I traced the leak up to the driver's side front corner of
the manifold where it meets the head and block.  It seems to have stopped
leaking now, at least there aren't anymore puddles on the ground, but the
leaking surface is still wet.  Two questions:

Am I going to cause any harm by continuing to drive it untill I have time to
pull it apart (spring break/summer)?

I replaced a manifold gasket on my '79 260, that was pretty much straight
foward.  Are there any tips/tricks I need to now before attempting this?
TIA




Jim H.
'87 Salon

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 14:50:44 EST
From: NjOlds@aol.com
Subject: WEATHERSTRIPPING



            Has anyone ever bought any weatherstripping from Metro Moulded
Parts (Super Soft Sponge Weatherstripping).  If so how good are thier
products.  I'm looking to buy weatherstripping for my ' 87 Cut. Sup.  Thanks
in advance

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 11:49:19 -0800 (PST)
From: <the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Lucille... RIP

Well all... Lucille got really really hot the other night... and it
was very very cold out (prob. abt. 20 or colder) and well... I've now
got a cracked block :*(

Body's just not in good enough shape to try to piece her back
together. I'll be getting a Caddiraft to replace her for the time
being and then I'll work on building me another g-body... or pref. an
older Cutlass or Toro.  I'm getting the caddi (slight body damage to
d-side fender, grille and hood) for a "friend" price.  I'm paying 500
bucks for it.  I know you all probably aren't particularly interested
in Caddy's, but here's the specs.  She's a 1973 Caddiraft Sedan
DeVille, yellow :)
BBlock... prob. a 500 with 25k miles on it, brand new (less than 5k
miles) quadrajet on it (and I've got a newly rebuilt holly sittin at
home too).  Comes with spare motor and tranny (same year, same size...
will probably eventually go in G-body).

If there's something that any of you need off Lucille... that I don'
particularly feel the need to save, your welcome to it for postage and
a fair price... let you guys get first dibs... except for the bucket
seats, alt. which are already promised, and tranny, d-shafe and
rear-end which I'm keeping.  She's a '84 Cutlass Supreme, buckets and
console.  All body panels bad except passy fender, trunk lid.  Decent
rear bumper (no rust, dent in center).  You guys probably wouldn't be
interested int anything that big though... interior is burgundy...
dash is perfect, console is decent, back seat good.  If you have any
specific ques. about any parts, just send me a mail... there's motor
parts too I reckon <sniff, sniff>.  Motors a '74 Olds 350 4bbl.  I'll
prob. be keeping intake, heads (assuming their still good).  I'll be
keeping the radiator, built tranny, 3.73 rear end etc.

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu
the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 14:17:44 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: Re: The "Olds"-Files

> I saw that!  The episode opens with a close-up shot of the grille,
> filling the *whole* screen, then it pans back to show the bumper, then
> up the hood to show the people inside.  My SO just kinda rolled her
eyes
> when I leaned forwards to the TV and said "Ooh!  Cutlass!".

I saw it too; I was only half watching the show and didn't recognize the

car until that nighttime scene where she looks in the rear-view mirror
and
sees an image of somebody's bloody face pressed up against the rear
window... probably supposed to be an Ominous Warning of rear defogger
problems soon to come.

It was an '81 or '83 vintage Cutlass, whichever year had the uniformly
spaced vertical dividers in the grilles (I'm ruling out '82 because mine

had them in groups of 5 or 6). You could see the rear vertical divider
in
the taillamps to identify it as the early '80s series. Just like a true
beater,
its marker lamps were burned out front and back.

> Aside from that, I thought the episode was pretty stupid.  I turned it
> off about 15 minutes into it, so I didn't get to see the Cutlass
again.

Yeah, major disappointment, that episode. By simply adding or
subtracting the interchangeable scenes where the little girl gets mad
at some walk-on character and kills them in an inventive way, you
could either contract the episode to 30 minutes or expand it to a 2-hour

Very Special Episode if you wanted. Personally, the first time a toy
doll
opened its eyes at me and asked me to kill somebody, I'd make a
mental note to be in the next ZIP Code within five minutes.

Chris Carter actually rejected Stephen King's story once or twice, then
finally rewrote it himself to get it on the air (hey, you _know_ it'll
get
ratings with King's name attached).
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 12:31:44 -0800
From: Todd Evans <sevans1@home.com>
Subject: [none]

unsubscribe

Todd Evans
Infinite Web
tevans@infiniteweb.com
http://www.infiniteweb.com
Home of the Southern California F-Body Homepage
http://www.infiniteweb.com/fbody.html
Owner 1979 Hurst/Olds  Racing Head Service 403ci, Turbo 350 w/ B&M 11"
converter, 3.23 Auburn posi, Mondello cam, heads, intake, etc., etc.,
Stock looks- not performance  13.10 @ 105 mph on street tires, mufflers

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 12:49:11 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: HEI

     Thanks to all for the HEI assistance. Off to the parts store for
a new pickup and module, plus I'll check all my grounds! :)


===
John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 14:57:16 -0600
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: '76 production totals

- -----Original Message-----
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
>
>Well, that's about exactly what I was looking for, thank you ever so much,
>Daren!  Is there a book or anything in particular you got this info from?
>Something maybe I should pick up???  Thanx again!
>--
 Yes it's called Setting the Pace Oldsmobiles First 100 Years by Helen Early
and James R. Walkinshaw. It has  just about every thing about Olds history.
I can't remember right of hand who to order it from, but I bet you can get
it from the Olds museum in Lansing. Go to WWW.442.com to find out about the
museum.

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 16:06:51 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Boxed Lower Control Arms

Trevor Lee wrote:
>
> What are boxed control arms anyways?  How are they different than regular
> arms??  I've just always wondered this and never took the opportunity to ask!
> :)
> --
> Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
> 468 BigBlock '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
> http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
> mailto:lee@mergetel.com
> Welland, Ontario, Canada

The boxed lowers (uppers, too) are stronger because of a metal plate welded (or
cast with the arm) across the U-section.  Check out my ASCII art below:

      ______
     /      \
     |      |
     |      |
    /        \

That is a cross-section of a regular control arm.  Here's a boxed one:

      ______
     /      \
     |      |
     |      |
    /        \
    ==========

The metal plate is welded on the bottom of the arm, over the valley formed by
the "U".  Hope this helps.

+---------------------------------------------------------------+
|__    ________|
|\ \  / __  __/Jason Adcock|
| \ \/ / / /CS Major, Virginia Tech|
|  \  / / /mailto:jadcock@vt.edu|
|   \/ /_/http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/|
||
+---------------------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 16:10:59 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Inter Active Car Show

Daren & Laurie Hendley wrote:
>
> When I was voting for Jason last night I noticed there is another Cutlass in
> Hall ª3. So I sent them a email last night asking if I could voting for more
> than one car if they are in different halls. This is the response I got this
> morning.

Hey, that 84 Cutlass in hall ª3 is Clayton Pierce's!  Clayton, are you still on
the list?

Daren's right.  I'm in second (by 2% or something) and Clayton's tied for
first!  Let's keep those votes rolling in!  Thanks to everyone who's voted for
my car so far!

+---------------------------------------------------------------+
|__    ________|
|\ \  / __  __/Jason Adcock|
| \ \/ / / /CS Major, Virginia Tech|
|  \  / / /mailto:jadcock@vt.edu|
|   \/ /_/http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/|
||
+---------------------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 15:20:55 -0600
From: dnewman@wcbi.com (Doug Newman)
Subject: Lansing Video

Hi All,
            Our mail server was down all weekend, so I didn't receive
anything posted over the last three days.  If anyone tried to contact me
about the video, please re-post.

Thanks,

Doug Newman
Columbus, MS
1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 98 16:27 EST
From: turley@symplex.com (Mike Turley)
Subject: Re: 1966 442 tail light bezels

> Need information on where I can order a new set of tail light bezels
> for a 1966-442.Thanks.                           Doro Pedroza 1966 442


Doro,

I've been waiting 16 years for the same information!  I don't think anyone
is reproducing them.  Most folks get a set of decent used ones and have them
replated.  This can be expensive.  I've been quoted up to 500.00/pair for
a show quality job.

Mike Aldana (of this list) has quoted me the best price (110.00 ea.) for
show quality replating.  Maybe that's what I'll do with the tax return. :)

The lenses are available from Mike Fusick or Year One, for about 100.00 a
pair.

Mike Turley
turley@symplex.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 13:37:13 -0800 (PST)
From: <the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com>
Subject: RE: Vote for Jason

Well... I voted for you Jason... myself too :)

You really gotta keep an eye on these people... I hadn't heard a peep
from them and My '80 Rover 3500 is on page 4... _AND_ Lucille (during
her former glory) can be found on page 3!

Lucille is doing pretty good... ahead of all the other's on her
page... don't have much hope though of catching Jason... he's got
10.2%!  Good luck Jason... Come on everybody... he's being beaten by a
Ch*vy for gosh-sakes!

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
the_rocketeer@Rocketmail.com





_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 15:25:34 -0600
From: Dominic Gomez <ngomez@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: WTD: Air Cleaner - Rochester 4GC Carb

The Rochester 4GC carb on my 1965 Olds Ninety Eight has a diameter of 4" or
so. The standard 5 1/8" diameter chrome air cleaners don't fit this carb, I
imagine they fit Quadrajets and Holleys. I want to keep my original single
snorkel setup, and buy an air cleaner from any car equipped with a
Rochester 4GC and cut out the midsection, making my own open element air
cleaner. That way I am preserving the Olds red color and great Ultra High
Compression decal on top. I like a nicely detailed engine over a chromed
beast any day. The air cleaner can be in any condition, it will be cut up
any way. Let me know what you have!
Nick

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 15:34:29 -0600
From: dnewman@wcbi.com (Doug Newman)
Subject: Paging Steve Dietrich

Hi Steve,
               Sorry to do this over the list, but I didn't have your e-mail
address.  I received your order today, and mailed your Lansing video this
afternoon.  Your letter was postmarked Feb. 2, so you should have it by the
beginning of next week.

Thanks,

Doug N.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 14:01:24 -0800
From: "mr. coy d. arbogast" <coyster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Stuff For Sale

I need those hood hindges for a 68 442 if you have them. I seem to be
having problems emailing you Thanks Coy

- ----------
> From: Robert Schinkel <docbob@caninet.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Stuff For Sale
> Date: Sunday, February 08, 1998 8:05 AM
>
> PLEASE
> E me direct and
> I'll get back to you A.S.A.P
>
> Robert Schinkel
> docbob@caninet.com
>
> 1968
>
> Hood Hinges                                                $35
> 442 Air cleaner                                             $75
> 3 sp. console (standard shift) looks like a 4 sp. console       $275
> C casting heads  (complete)                         $175
> Convertible top cylinders                              $30 ea.
> Conv. Top latches                                           $30.pr
> Conv. Vent windows with frames good chrome   $60.pr.
> Reverse light lens good condition                     $10
> Rear defroster Switch                                      $20
>
> 1969
>
> 442 Grills exc.                         $190
> Wiper switch                            $40
> Radio plate (uncut)                   $20
> Rear defroster Switch & wiring   $25
> Plastic headlight frames            $75
> Vacuum trunk switch                  $25
> Taillight lens and some housings  $15 ea
>
> 1970
>
> Tail light lens (Cutlass)            $12 ea
> Tail light lens (Supreme)         $15 ea
> Nos fender script "Cutlass"      $30 ea
> Nos Horn Contact (sport wheel)      $20 ea
> Nos 442 emblem sets (both sides, front tooth and trunk lid)  $225
> F85 fender script         $30 pr.
> Ashtray Doors                                $10
> Dash Plaques (Plastic around gauges W/ wood grain)      $20
> 70-72 Cutlass wagon dash pad  Black (No Vent Holes)   $150
> Conv. Visors w/mirror pad BUT no mirror  Black           $50.pr.
> 455 heads E casting                       $150
> Convertible Top Switch                  $60
> Convertible Top switch Bezel          $25
>
> 1971 & 1972
>
> 442 Grills good condition (with 442 emblems)      $200
> Auto Console (Tan)                                           $90
> Nos headlight frames(plastic)         $75 pr.
> Front bumper directional lens         $10 ea.
> Tail light lens                                 $12 ea.
> 71-72 Rocker Chrome good/c            $60 a set
> T handle  (that opens hood)                   $10
> Ashtray Doors                                            $10
> Dash Plaques (Wood Grain area around gauges)  $10
> 71-72 sport mirrors w/brackets                                        $60
> Seat belt shoulder harness,   plastic hangers                   $15.pr.
>
> Shipping is extra
> Robert Schinkel
> docbob@caninet.com
> 1970 442 Convertible
> 1970 Cutlass W- 31 4 gear
> 1970 Rallye 350
> 1970 Cutlass Convertible ( 13.4 et)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 14:20:39 PST
From: "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 88/98 parts for sale

>From oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca Mon Feb  9 13:11:22 1998
>Received: by chebucto.ns.ca id <93699-7859>; Mon, 9 Feb 1998 15:32:43
- -0400
>Received: from NO-IDENT-SERVICE@mailsorter-105.iap.bryant.webtv.net
(port 62642 [207.79.35.95]) by chebucto.ns.ca with ESMTP id
<91203-21561>; Mon, 9 Feb 1998 11:01:46 -0400
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>From:NOVAMARK@webtv.net (MARK ERTHUM)
>Date:Mon, 9 Feb 1998 08:01:38 -0700
>To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Re: 88/98 parts for sale
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>
>Hey big car 88/98 olds fans.  Have a 65-70 12 bolt posi rear end for
>$200 complete drum to drum includes E-brake cables too. Sorry I don't
>know the ratio of it,I never opened it up to see. Also have the factory
>boxed rear lower control arms,shims and sway bar set-up for the 65-70
>big car $200.
>I have one more interesting thing for those boats. Front disc brake
>parts for the 67-70's. L&R spindles, caliper brackets, dust cover,
>rotors, and speedo cable. $200. Does not include shipping, but will
>negotiate a lot deal.
>Email novamark@webtv.net for more info or possible trades for
>cutlass/442 pre '72 stuff.
>
>Talk to ya later,
>Mark from Az.
>
>hey,i got a 75 delta 88 convrt,and i would kill for that posi rear
but i dont have the $$$ would you trade for something???


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 17:25:24 -0500
From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Subject: Re: cylinder ridge

At 11:20 PM 2/8/98 -0500, you wrote:

>If you can feel it, make it go away. They make a nice device to do just that,
>about $30 for a good one. Cuts just the ridge away. If you don't remove the
>ridge, the rings can hit on it, esp. during a high speed and/or high temp
run,
>and break off the lower ring lands, break the rings, score the cylinder, etc.
>--
>Chris Witty, cross-dressing Olympic speed skater :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

A note of caution on the ridge reamer: If you are rebuilding a block with
severe cylinder taper, the reamer will continue the taper. I had a
situation where the bores were severely worn and tapered. When I used the
ridge reamer it extended the taper just outside the tolerances of a .030
over-bore, necessitating a .040.

Ray

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 17:03:00 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: 68 442 400 Stove wanted!

Anybody have a stove for a 68 442 400 exhaust manifold? I have the correct
air cleaner and the heat riser pipe assembly and need the Stove...be
gentle!!!

The air cleaner assembly is in phenomenal shape...the "OG type on the side
is silk screened and PERFECT!!!

Let me know!!!

Thanx!

Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 18:08:38 -0500
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: Re: Sad day for me

Bob:  Why would you want to do that?  Thinking of selling the Rag top.
Wayne

Robert Schinkel wrote:
>
> The day started well.  I got my convertible out for the first time this
> year, was nice to feel real power again but the nice sensation was far to
> brief as this was my last time driving the ragtop with the 455.
> This afternoon I started the process of tearing out the Drag train and
> prepare to put the big 455 to a long slumber till the next car is built and
> ready to go (probably end of the year).
> Oh well the rag top will be a nice driver agian with its stock 350 and 3.23
> gears back in her.  But I will miss the suprised look on the faces of so
> many when a 1970 Cutlass Conv. launches with the front tire coming off the
> ground and just blows the doors off most street toys.  At least I have her
> on video to remember the good old days.
>
> Next car to get the drive train will hopefully be my Rallye 350, but thats
> a long time form now.
>
> Robert Schinkel
> docbob@caninet.com
> 1970 442 Convertible
> 1970 Cutlass W- 31 4 gear
> 1970 Rallye 350
> 1970 Cutlass Convertible ( 13.4 et)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 18:29:27 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: '76 production totals

- -----Original Message-----
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, February 09, 1998 3:16 PM
Subject: Re: '76 production totals


>Well, that's about exactly what I was looking for, thank you ever so
much,
>Daren!  Is there a book or anything in particular you got this info
from?
>Something maybe I should pick up???  Thanx again!
>--
>Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
>468 BigBlock '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
>http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
>mailto:lee@mergetel.com
>Welland, Ontario, Canada
>
Trevor, Seeing your post reminded me of an Olds I saw at the World of
Wheels car show in Indy on the weekend.
There were a grand total of three olds there (that I saw anyway).
1. A 66 Cutlass in good restorable condition. For sale for $6000.
2. A violent purple "Lowrider" 81 Cutlass with a trunk full of nitrous
bottles.
3. A 1990 Cutlass Supreme Pro Street. It definitely wasn't front wheel
drive; tubbed with huge rear meats, and get this Trevor; a 468 big
block. Definitely not yours father's Olds. :-)

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S convertible
OCAª 29770
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 15:29:55 -0800
From: "mr. coy d. arbogast" <coyster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Robert Schinkel

I need to know if anyone can get me roberts number as i need to get some
parts from him. Every time i send him email it comes back as not in
service.
Thanks Coy
coyster@earthlink.net

- ----------
> From: Robert Schinkel <docbob@caninet.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: '76 production totals
> Date: Sunday, February 08, 1998 12:59 PM
>
> > From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: '76 production totals
> > Date: Sunday, February 08, 1998 12:09 PM
> >
> > Does ANYBODY out there have the production figures for the '76
> Cutlasses???  I'd
> > much appreciate it if someone could post it!  Thank you!  Have a good
> day.  :)
> > --
> > Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
> > 468 BigBlock '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
> > http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
> > mailto:lee@mergetel.com
> > Welland, Ontario, Canada
> >
> Cutlass S hardtop Coupe            -       59179
> Colonnade Hardtop Sedan          -       34994
> Cutlass Supreme hardtop Coupe -       186647
> Colonnade Hardtop Sedan          -       37112
>
>
> Hope these help you trevor
>
> Robert Schinkel
> docbob@caninet.com
> 1970 442 Convertible
> 1970 Cutlass W- 31 4 gear
> 1970 Rallye 350
> 1970 Cutlass Convertible ( 13.4 et)
>
> >

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 16:43:41 -0700
From: Gary Manton <sasgmm@unx.sas.com>
Subject: Cam help

I have sent my cam from my 64 Dynamic 88 to be reground.  It is off of the
standard 394 330hp.  The cam company has asked for the following specs, and
I was hoping that someone would be able to help me.  I would ideally like to
move to the specs of the starfire that was 345hp.

They needed to know (and I hope I got it right, please excuse my ignorance..)
Lub Center
Advertised Duration
Duration at 50
Lob Lift
Gross Lift with Rocker Ratio

If anyone can help me, I would greatly appreciate it.

THanks,

G
          \\|//
          (o o)
~~~~~~oOOo~(_)~oOOo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Gary M. MantonSAS Institute
Business Solutions DivisionPhoenix, AZ  85012
(602) 265-1616 ext. 230 - voice        (602) 265-8585 - fax
(888) 982-4079 - Pager

"In business as in life, your chances of being run over are doubled
if you stay in the middle of the road"
~~~~~~oooo~~~~~oooo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 19:36:25 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: BUY DOUG NEWMAN"S VIDEO!!!

Wow!  Just finished watching Doug Newman's "Unofficial Oldsmobile Centennial
Video".

I say it should be the "Official Oldsmobile Centennial Video".  The music
selections kept my foot tappin' through the whole thing.  What amazed me the
most, were the numerous times Doug was able to match the song lyrics with
the video.  (That's tedious and very time consuming to do folks!)

If you don't own this video, do yourself a favor and BUY IT!  The low price
tag of $20. includes shipping.  Plus he delivers fast!  I mailed my check
out on a Tuesday and received it 6 days later. (I'm in MI, he's in MS)

I was fortunate enough to attend the Centennial Celebration in Lansing.
This video allows me to re-live that experience.  He covers the curve dashes
all the way to the current models.  Plus, showed the Olds Motorcade, the
1970 models on the bridge, and lots of the parade.

That disappointing  "Lansing or Bust" mess proved that just because a video
is labeled "Official" doesn't mean it's good.

Take my word for it, buy the "Unofficial Olds Video".  It focuses on the
important part of the Olds Centennial Celebration.....THE CARS!

"Unofficial Oldsmobile Centennial Video"    Send $20. to:

Doug Newman
22 Ridge Road
Columbus, MS  39701


Sorry to ramble on, but this tape is worth rambling about.
================================================
RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.>      See them and 44 other Olds' at:
1995 Achieva S  >      http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 19:44:42 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: what stuffs weigh

fyi

Olds ª5 heads with valves & springs weigh in at right about 50ª each.

Olds 350 Nodular crank weighs 56ª wrapped in cardboard.

Costs around $30 to ship 56ª from Mi to TX...
- --
Chris Witty :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 20:10:40 EST
From: Mobil442@aol.com
Subject: email

please put me on the email list.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 20:52:55 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 330 project

From: TERMO1L@aol.com

       Well it was a hassle for a kid to do alone but I finally got my 330
reinstalled.  I am having trouble finding the rubber grommets for my PCV and
Breather.  Does anyone know where I could get some from?  Its a '66.  Also any

[[ Yeah, the Olds dealer, strangely enough, still has at least the PCV one, 
darn
cheap, too. Year One et.al have them as well. Add shipping. ]]
- ---------------------------

advice about installing a knew distributer?  IU am going to have trouble I can
tell.  The car is ready to go except plugs wires and exhaust.  Will it hurt my
car if I put the distibuter in wrong and try to start it?  The hardest part so
far is trying to get that damn thing figured out.  Any help would be great.

[[ Well, it's not GREAT to put the dist'r in backwards, but the motor usually
survives. If you had read my instructions on engine assembly, it'd now be a
breeze.
  Pull the ª1 spark plug- left front cylinder. bump-crank the motor until you
feel pressure pushing your thumb off the spark plug hole. Now turn motor by
hand more CW from the front until the timing park is at about 10' BTDC. Now
your motor is ready to fire ª1 cylinder.
  Put the dist'r in, with the body positioned so that the vac. can has room to
swing a bit- off to the passenger side typically. Set the rotor to just CCW of
pointing toward the ª1 cylinder. NEW O-RING, right? As you wiggle & twist the
dist'r down into place, cap should move CW a bit to end up pointing just about
at Cyl ª1.
  Now, adjust the housing so that it's ready to fire- points: move housing same
as rotor until points close, then back other way against rotor direction until
they just open. HEI: line up the fingers as best you can. Snug down the body
so you can JUST turn it by hand. Mark on the intake or dist housing where the
rotor's pointing.
   Install cap. Put ª1 wire where you made that mark, where the rotor's
pointing. Going around the cap in the direction the rotor rotates, put the
other wires on in the firing order: 18436572.
  Should crank right up, need only the final tweaking to correct specs. ]]
- ----------------------------

  Is anyone good at determining if a car is going to perform well?  I had the
Low Comp 330 and it was alright but kind of slow.  Since I have had the motor
rebiuld, HC pistons put in.  A slightly bigger cam.  Performer manifold,
Holley 600 and will be adding dual exhaust next week.  I also put in new
alternater,  Dist., transmission cooler.  Did I waste the nearly two grand I
have spent?  Will it be pretty fast?  I have a crappy little Jetaway and a
2.73 rear.  Thats next years project.

[[ You will really like the difference. Sportier rear gear would be the next
biggest boost, and cost proportionately more in gas, return same in fun. ]]

Thanks sorry its so long
====================
[[ I bet you say that to all the girls! ]]

sorry could not resist.
:-O
- --
Chris Witty :=: cross-dressing Olympic speed skater :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 20:56:48 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: water pumps

O.K., this is weird...My 68 442 has a"generic" 455 68-72, no idea what
year...J heads so I imagine it's a 73+. Anyway...I went to my local parts
store and bought a water pump for a 71 455, guessing there was little or no
difference...WRONG!!! The pulleys were way off, we went through 5 or six
other water pumps and found out that the 68 400 water pump measured
correctly, the only visible difference was the size of the water port
channels. The timing chain cover has small ports that match the water pump
but I'm worried about the cooling implications. I assume the reason this
was done when the 455 was installed originally was for radiator clearence
as the 68 shaft was a good 1/2" shorter.
Let me know as soon as possible if anybody's out there!
SCOTT WHEELER
=============
There are about 3 different Olds WP snout lengths. Like 5", 5.5", and 6". Plus
or minus 1/8" or so. I would've guessed that the pump you need would be that
for your car/ body/ that sort of motor.

Other pumps can be used, if the pulley set and maybe the accessories are
swapped also to match.

No need to worry about the water pumps' port sizes. What DOES matter is the
impeller diameter and construction. After all, it ALL has to pass thru the
thermostat, a pretty smallish hole at that.
- --
Chris Witty :=: cross-dressing Olympic speed skater :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 17:47:31 -0800 (PST)
From: Joe Padavano <joe_padavano@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Motor mounts

I apologize for wasting the bandwidth if this info is already in the FAQ, butr
is there a comprehansive list of the dimensions and applications of A-body
motor and frame mounts?  If not, I volunteer to collect the data if the
respective list members (well, those with engines out of cars) can measure
their motor and frame mounts.  I ask that we stick to those mounts/engines
which are known to be original for starters - one problem that I currently
have is that I've switched around frame and motor mounts in my young and
stupid days and now I have a hard time knowing what went where originally.

As far as measuring is concerned, start with the frame mount.  First, any
stamped part number would be good to have.  Second, what are the dimensions
between the bolt which mount to the crossmember and the motor mount (try to
give it your best shot at the horizontal and vertical, as opposed to just
measuring between the bolt holes):

               |<Dim A------->|
              ___________________
             /                   \
             | O              O  |-------------
             \                  /     ^       ^
              |   ___________   |     |       |
              |   |          |  |   Dim B     |
              |   |----------|  |_____V_____  |
              |   |----------|  |             |
              |   |__________|  |           Dim C
               \               /              |
                \      O      /---------------V-
                 \___________/


I guess it would also be useful to have the width of the rectangular block
(call that Dim D) and the height of the through bolt hole above the frame
mounting surface (call that one E).

Thanks in advance, as I'm sure this will be of use to a number of list members.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 21:24:24 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: about milling

From: Rotten <olds442@en.com>
Subject: A question about milling

My "E" heads are out being milled as we speak.  The shop is going to take
.050" off the bottom.  Anyone know if I will need to mill my intake to
compensate for this?  If so, how much?   Ken
- ------------------------------
Well....

it'd be best if you do. Your new gasket will be about 0.020 thicker than the
original, so you really only need to compensate for 0.030 of head lowering. I'd
do that.
Shave 0.030" off each intake surface. Don't let the mechanics start multiplying
by some Chevy number to get the "right cut"- Olds heads are 90 degree surfaces,
so intake cut == head cut. You CAN also cut the block rail seal surface of the
intake, but you'd be better off to just eliminate the rubber or cork strip and
seal w/ a bead of silly-cone. Should you choose to cut, Rotten, the amount of
said cut would be sqrt(2) or 1.414 times the cut off the intake surfaces. I
think. either that or 1/1.414= .707- the machinist should know.


Use 2 colors for best results; an Old Racer's Trick! ;-)




- --
Chris Witty :=: cross-dressing Olympic speed skater :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 21:08:43 -0600
From: "Tracy H. Shires" <twodogs@ou.edu>
Subject: Re: Lighting Rods

>Gack!  I hope not.  An "AOD" is a Ford tranny, despite the obvious acronym.


AACcckk, no no no, I forgot about that,I draw the line with ford parts.




>back their lightning rods shifters!  I haven't heard anything since, and I'm
sure these won't be exactly the same as the H/O models, but they should be
functionally the same.  Might want to check at your local speed shop to see if
they can get

>'em.


I called up Summit, they had lighting rods listed, vendor shipped only(Hurst),
but also said unavailable. Little strange there, but they gave me Hurst's phone
number so I'll give them a call first thing tomorrow. I still have a couple
years of college left so I can't afford an absurd cost, but boy will the guys
back home be envious if I could get ahold of em. A friend of mine will make me 
a
custom bezel if necessary, but I have to get the rods and linkage first...


Thanks, I keep yall updated on the search..







T. H. Shires81 C/S/B Rckt 350

mailto:TwoDogs@ou.edu


<bold>University of Oklahoma

</bold><italic><color><param>0000,0000,ffff</param>Aerospace
Engineering

</color><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param>Mechanical Engineering

</color></italic>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 22:33:15 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 69 conv. antenna pcs, misc stuffs

> From: JFOWLER@capecod.net
> Subject: Stll Looking
> I'm looking for the top spacer for a power antenna for a convertible.  I
> have all the other parts.  Please H*lp!!
> ------------------------------

I have a nice one on hand. $800, and you get the whole rest of the car with it.
Runs & drives. Crusty. Even has that rare "Deluxe" steering wheel!

btw, that guy from down south who was interested, parting out will begin soon
if no purchase as a whole.

> Date: Sat, 7 Feb 1998 21:49:49 EST
> From: GPalmquist@aol.com
> Subject: I don't g*t it
> I'm n*w and would lik* to b* clu*d in on this whol* thing. Is it Ch*vy or
> what?
> N*w and trying to catch on.
> Thanks-G*il Palmqu*st
> ------------------------------

Sort of a snub to the other brands. As if to say, "the world does NOT revolve
around the sb Ch*vy motor." Yes, other brands even have "small block" motors.
Like not mentioning a dirty word in its complete state.

> Toronado
> 2 dr coupe                                  48900
> Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
> ==============

Conspicuously absent from this list, Bill, is the production of 4-door Toronado
sedans. What gives? ;-)

> the 2 yr old asks: why we have so many cars?
> ===============

Because *we can*. Indeed, why have but one? If one has no space I guess.

> I'am looking to purchase a 68 442. How do I know if the engine is the =
> orginal? What ª's should match what? Is there anything else that I =
> should look for on the car that was a problem area?[rust, frame etc.].
>      Tom H.
> ================

Quickest check: look for the C about 3/4" tall on the lower RH corner
of the head as you face it. Either head. If that's there, it's got
correctish '67-'69 C heads, a Good Thing. Original motor should be a G block-
see shelf behind water pump and fore of intake, right next to oil pressure
sender. Other engines commonly found in such a car would be the
F- 455
E- early 400, not common at all, maybe better
D- 425, no slouch
number, no letter; or number/letter such as "4B": small block.


  If THAT also matches, VIN derivative matching the car should appear on a
vertical machined pad at the left side afront of the motor just below the head-
plan on scraping and shining a light in there to see the "38M123456" similar
number:
3= Olds
8= 1968; other ª= other year
M= original car production plant in MI; other letters possible.
123456= matches last 6 digits of the car body VIN

Car body VIN should start out "344..." else is not a 442. "342..." or 346..."
?? were the Cutlass cars. That's the NIN plate under the windshield.

The body tag on the firewall might say "style 42__" even if it is a real 442.
Less likely if Canadian built.

Should have front & REAR stabilizer bars for sure. Say "442" on decklid,
glovebox, fenders, and grille. grille is black, rectangles about 1/2" tall x
1.5" wide. Hood with raised center section and 3 grille sections.
  Carb ª7028xxx where xxx is probably 251. If it's ...254, let me know ASAP.

What am I forgetting?

> as proof he took the short
> bus to school he says "Man, this car is faaaaaaaaaast!".
> ===============

That's a riot, what a way to imply slowness! "Took the short bus to school."
Heh.
- --
Chris Witty :=: cross-dressing Olympic speed skater :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 22:47:40 EST
From: DKlauber@aol.com
Subject: W-30 High Bid $32,000!!

I was just checking out the Barrett-Jackson auction web page to see if a
gorgeous 1970 W-30 conv sold...and how much it got.  Didn't sell at a high bid
of 32k!!  If you are interested in seeing what other olds sold for or the high
bids go to :
www.barrett-jackson.com/
As for other 442's:  67 coupe sold $11,750, 72 442 conv sold $24,500, 69 W-30
conv sold (no reserve) $14,000
DKlauber@aol.com
71 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 22:53:33 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: 76' Production totals

Robert Barry wrote:

> Just for the record, "Setting the Pace" has complete production figures for
> all years of Oldsmobiles in an Appendix, though the breakdown is by model,

Thank you very much, Rob.  I'm not DESPERATE for the book, but I'll keep my eye
open.
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
468 BigBlock '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 22:08:39 -0500
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Boxed Lower Control Arms

>What are boxed control arms anyways?  How are they different than regular
>arms??  I've just always wondered this and never took the opportunity to
ask!
>:)
>--
>Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
>468 BigBlock '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
>http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
>mailto:lee@mergetel.com
>Welland, Ontario, Canada
>
The control arms in question are the bottom pair of the four link rear
suspension GM A-body's used.  the stock arms are just stamped metal in a "C"
shape tube, so they are hollow looking from the bottom.  the "boxed"
versions are fully rectangular, the advantage is they are stiffer which is
needed to withstand the difflection of a stiff rear anti-sway bar which was
bolted to them.  I got custom boxed and reinforced lower control arms and a
1 3/8's bar from H-O Racing (now outa business).

hope that helps,

greg

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 22:15:07 -0500
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Header debate (blackjacks)

I installed Black Jack's aluminized headers over 6 years ago and they were
THE biggest pain in the ass I've ever done to my Olds.  I had to pull the
motor twice to get them right.  Turns out they were hitting on the bottom of
the block and not letting the flanges fit against the heads, so they kept
blowing the bottoms out of the gaskets.  After I banged them enough to fit,
the crossover pipe on my dual exaust kept them from moving, so they had to
be cut and rewelded.  I also had to relocate my brake proportioning valve,
and dent the headers to clear the engine mounts and starter.  I also had to
reroute the trans cooling lines.

Now they are rusted out I need to replace them this spring. I hate to use
the same brand, but I don't want to reweld the collectors to mate to
different brand headers.  any suggestions?  BTW, it's a 1971 cutlass
'vertable, with a 350
- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 23:07:53 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Vote for an OLDS(S)

For God's sake don't let a chevy truck win!  Vote for both 84' C/S in
showrooms 2 & 3.

Here's the URL(s)
http://auto4world.com/interactive-car-show/showrooms/showroom2.html

http://auto4world.com/interactive-car-show/showrooms/showroom3.html


================================================
RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.>      See them and 44 other Olds' at:
1995 Achieva S  >      http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 23:14:09 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: ? for a Michigan OCA member

Just joined OCA and live about 1-1/2 hours from Lansing.  Two questions for
any OCA member living in MI:

1.)  How long does it usually take to receive a response to my membership
application?

2.)  What part of the month do you receive the JWO newsletter?

Thanks in advance,

================================================
RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt.>      See them and 44 other Olds' at:
1995 Achieva S  >      http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 22:23:40 -0500
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: tall valve covers /w alt. bracket???

I'm bored of my nasty looking stock vavle covers, and didn't like the chrome
ones when I had them.  there are cool looking "tall" Oldsmobile valve covers
(I think Mondello has them), but they don't work with the A/C and alternator
brackets that hug the v. covers.  I took out the A/C no prob., but the
alternator bracket on the other hand...  It is mounted by two other
brackets, but is that enough to hold it steady?  Anyone run their alternator
with the rear bracket removed?

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 23:27:58 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: COPS!!!!!

well, i cant represent all americans or even all car guys, but i honestly hate
cops.  ever since i swapped out my 260 for a 350, i have had 6 blue lights.
somehow, i managed to get out with only one ticket till 2 weeks ago when i got
one for having a burnt out lisence plate bulb.  this is going to cost anywhere
from $50-150.  the bulb was $.30.  i had a cop friend of mine talk to the cop
that gave me the ticket, and he said i was being a butthead and that i had 8
people in my car.  there was 4 of us, and i would never smart off to an
officer and risk being beaten or thrown in jail.  by the way, ive only been
pulled for speeding once.  the others were for really stupid things.  i think
its because im 19, and my car sounds like a "hot rod".  no joke.  they see me,
and the let all the other peaple go.  why didnt i ever get pulled over during
the 3 years i drove it with my 260 in there?  i drive absolutely the same as i
always have.  boy, i am really dissapointed with cops right now.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 23:29:27 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: window tint

hey, is there anything i should worry about when i take my tint off my back
glass?  it has the defrost on it, and im scared it might tear the traces off.
the tint has been on there for about 2 years now.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 22:30:30 -0600
From: senator@itis.com (Robert F. Newbegin Jr.)
Subject: Re: Wires ?

You are correct.  I'm almost completely sure it's the yellow one also.  I
put a CD player in my '78 Cutlass, yellow is power.  I also took out the
broken lighter, one wire on it was black (ground, obviously) and the other
was orange.
Of course, I noticed more than one orange wire behind the dash.  BTW, I
bought a replacement lighter, Victor brand, and it won't fit properly.
Kind of annoying without having the fuzz-buster sitting on the dash...

Bob
'78 Cutlass

>JFOWLER@capecod.net wrote:
>>
>> I'm in the process of putting in a original AM/FM stereo in my 69 442.
>> I was wondering if anybody knew what color the power lead should be?  I
>> have a loose orange and a yellow wire.  I'm guessing that it should be
>> the yellow wire and the orange should go to a clock or tach.
>
>It's the yellow one.   Orange one MAY go to the cig. lighter.  Not 100%
>sure without looking though.
>
>Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 23:50:35 EST
From: TERMO1L@aol.com
Subject: Shake, rattle, and slap. (Kinda long but please help)

Guys

I am still having trouble with my olds,  here the story:

'66 f85 with fresh rebuilt 330.  Only thing that is different is new cam and
HC pistons.  It was bored .030 over and valve job and all that other suff that
comes with a complete rebuild.  Here's the problem:

I istalled the motor hooked everything up without the exhaust.(just the open
manifolds.  I was waiting to install the dist. cuz I hadn't a clue how to do
it.  Well now I did it and its not good.  I have the distributer in right(as
in correct to comp. stroke)(tried it both ways) I checked and double checked
my plug wires to my chilton manual.  I got the car started at first and it
would not stay running.  It cranked over real hard so I turned the dist. a
little.  It started to smooth out but there is this realling loud slapping or
knocking noise coming from my engine that sounds like a piston is hitting
something (could be a rocker, rod, valve  I don't know)  Anyone have any
ideas?  I also am only running 87 (I put in 2.5g of 110 but I'm sure it has
not gotten to the carb yet) I am scared to let my engine run but I can't get
it anywhere(like to get the exhaust on)

Well sorry its so long but please any help or ideas will be great


MIke

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 22:56:06 -0600
From: Thomas and Jodie Martin <jmartin@netwurx.net>
Subject: Re: 307 Timing

I had a terrible ping with my 85 Cutlass 307.  My dad fought it for years, new
EGR, 180 thermostat, cleaned carbon from pistons (pour thru junk, works good),
etc.

Only thing that helped a bit was 93 oct, and retarded timing.  I bought the
car from my dad April 97, and tackled it head on.  I was not paying $1.40+ for
92 oct!  Especially when My dad bought it from Olds it did not need it.

I finally removed the carb, and ran a long 3/8 drill bit down the EGR jet
extensions.  At first I was scared to damage the jet itself.  So I removed
them.  Saw the carbon, and ran it thru.  Make sure when you run it down it
goes ALL the way thru.  The carbon builds up pretty bad.  If it is bad, run a
piano wire from the EGR valve to the EGR jet extensions.  Make sure it is all
clear.  This engine is VERY sensitive to EGR flow.  You will make more power
with this engine WITH EGR than without.

The tubes at the top (near the carb) were spotless.  So remove them if you are
questionable.  I have heard this area of the intake is prone to getting weak
and breaking, so inspect carefully before you crank with a socket and breaker
bar.

Since I have had no pinging at all.  This cured it, and I was able to run 87
oct and full timing (even bumped up a tad).

Good luck!

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª1093
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