
oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, January 15 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1058



Re: 69 non-remote mirrors
Re: NON-Expiring registration for Michigan
Re: Ignited
Re: Bleeding Brakes
Re: 72 Cutlass problems
Re: Are these good prices?
Looking for 1968 and 1972 MI plates
Re: temp. guage
65 window sticker help
Re: 70 Cutlass Wheel well chrome?
Re: Accelerator question
Just can't be satisfied... tuning tips for my 455?
Boxed lower arms for '65
Re: A-body frames
Re: 65 window sticker help
Re: Accelerator question
Re: Lucky Day
56 Olds 88 4door available
Re: Starting again!
Webpage update
What Can Go Wrong
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1057
Re: temp. guage
Re: temp. guage
rear main seal
Re: What Can Go Wrong
Re: What Can Go Wrong
valve adjustments
Content-Type: text/plain
Re: valve adjustments
Re: What Can Go Wrong
Huffing more glue
Re: Ignited
Re: What Can Go Wrong
Win a 1968 Classic Mustang Convertible!
Re: 455 head gasket replacement
Re: Just can't be satisfied... tuning tips for my 455?
Re: Webpage update
Re: ignited
Re: Gevo's,  was are these good prices
Re: Looking for 1968 and 1972 MI plates
Re: What Can Go Wrong
Re: NON-Expiring registration for Michigan
Re: What Can Go Wrong
Re: What Can Go Wrong
Re: Webpage update
Re: What Can Go Wrong
RE: Mike's misread message.
ADMIN:PLEASE REMOVE
ADMIN:PLEASE REMOVE
Re: Webpage update
Re: Soylent Ocean Green Door Stop 
unscribe oldsmobile
unsubscribe oldsmobile
Re: What Can Go Wrong
Rochester 2-Jet I.D.
Re: What Can Go Wrong

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 21:05:41 -0500
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: Re: 69 non-remote mirrors

Greg: I've done that to with good success.  Wayne Schwartz


Lloyd W. Culp wrote:
> 
> Greg,
> 
> I know that this message is late, but a method that I have used is to use a
> punch on the ball in several places (knurling efect) to increase the
> friction.  The mirror is taken off and put into a vise.  The mirror head is
> moved to the far positions so that the ball can be punched without showing
> when the head is in its normal position.
> 
> Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
> Decatur, Alabama
> '62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible
> 
> >On Sun, 11 Jan 1998, M&D Gillespie wrote:
> >
> >> Following this thread brings up a question. Both the driver and
> >> passenger side chrome mirrors are loose and move out of adjustment
> >> everytime a door is closed. How can they be tightened up? Is there an
> >> adjustment on the inside, or are they just worn out?
> >
> >I have the same problem with mine. Last year I had some success with
> >working some body caulk into the socket to tighten it up but that was
> >only temporary. This year I might try some sort of stickum. They just
> >seem to wear and get loose.
> >
> >Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 21:25:56 +0000
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: NON-Expiring registration for Michigan

RC Hellebuyck wrote:
> 
> For all you Michigander's out there that don't already know;
> 
> January of '97, MI came out with a new type of registration for "antique"
> cars (25 years or older).
> 
> If you get a plate the same year as your car, you can apply for an
> "Authentic" registration.  It's a ONE-TIME $35.00 fee!  No yearly tabs to

Thanks RC! But what if I want to drive my car to school everyday? Or
what if I want to park it at night an hang out? Or what if I want to
drive to Toledo? Does the "ETC" cover that? Would I just be better
keeping my regular plates?

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 21:47:51 EST
From: KS7RACING <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Ignited

I have used the Stinger system on both street and circle-track Olds engines
with real good results. It could be hidden for that "untouched stock" look,
since the trigger box (ignition control) is small.

MSD ignition boxes will work with the Stinger-equipped distributor as well

just 2 cents here (maybe less),

Ken Snyder

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:12:45 EST
From: AGUY4RUMLI <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Bleeding Brakes

In a message dated 98-01-14 00:28:11 EST, you write:

<< I like to do this before I install the master cylinder in the car, to avoid
 trapping air bubbles in the MC bore. I lightly clamp mine in a bench vise,
 run the hoses back into the resevoir, and slowly push in on the piston with
 a 6" long 1/2"-drive extension. You can see the air bubbles down in the
 bore; sometimes you have to "pulse" the piston to work them free. Be
 patient; they'll all eventually come out of there... :)
 ________________________________ >>
That is a total pain in the a__.Its not so easy to push that piston in slowly
by hand. Its much easyier to put it in the car have a friend push the pedal
slowly and if your parinoid about air being trapped you can jack the rear of
the car up so the master is level and as the buddy pushes the pedal slowly tap
the side of the master with your hand. But i guess thats my point of view.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:21:32 EST
From: AGUY4RUMLI <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass problems

In a message dated 98-01-14 00:05:15 EST, you write:

<< My second question is about the carb.  At the present time the car has a
 >holley 600 cfm double pumper w/holley alum intake, crane cam, double roller
 >timing chain, HEI (w/adv kit) MSD 6al ignition, headers w/flowmasters, elec
 >fuel pump, elec fans, and the car is a 350 cid .030 over w/a 4 spd tranny
3:23
 >posi.  I hope all this details help to answer this simple question, IS THIS
 >CARB TOO SMALL??? I'm being told that what I need is a 750 cfm double
pumper.
 >Is this true or are they just trying to take my money at the performance
 >shop?? At the present time I'm getting around 14.79 et's at the strip. Is
this
 >about right? >>
If you are in search of a larger carb i have a 780 holly with vac. secondaries
and quick change jet fuel bowls and the complete jet kit. Just pulled it off
my car about 2 months ago. I didnt see the motor mount part of your mess. but
if your breaking them as i was you can make metal motor mounts or attatch a
chain to the tork side of the motor and the frame. I made one metal one and
put it on the tork side and the other side is rubber, they have been in place
for about 7 years no problems. And i use to break motor mounts all the time
running a 455.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:21:25 EST
From: EDZX6 <EDZX6@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Are these good prices?

Matt,

I bought my posi (rebuilt) from a place in N.Y. called Gevos they have posis
and gears.  I payed $250.00 and they even C.O.D. unfortunately I can't seem to
find the number. I originally got the number from  Hemmings Motor News which
is refered to as the bible for used parts, (down here in Miami I've yet to
find a swap meet that has anything for olds).  If you are really interested I
can dig a little deeper and probably find that number.  If you've never bought
or seen that Hemmings book you really should try to buy one there great!!!!

EDZX6@aol.com
72 Cutlass Conv  4 spd  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:40:42 -0500
From: loris <loris@tir.com>
Subject: Looking for 1968 and 1972 MI plates

Looking for someone to sell me (2) 1968 Michigan license plates and (2)
1972 Michigan license plates.  Not bent or cracked.  Thanks.

- -Loris
1968 Cutlass 'S' convertible
1972 Cutlass Supreme convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 21:39:52 -0600
From: senator@itis.com (Robert F. Newbegin Jr.)
Subject: Re: temp. guage

Tom Lentz writes:
>Try the Mr. Gasket or Robertshaw 180 degree high-flow thermostat.  Both my '79
>260 and my '84 307 ran as hot as yours, which I thought was too hot.  On the
>snip<

I would make sure that the 180 degree thermostat is correct for your car.
Mine is a 195 degree thermostat, I think.  Of course, I don't think that it
could be THAT bad if it overcools a little bit.

Bob
'78 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:49:34 -0500
From: "Thomas A. Bromfield" <timberline1@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: 65 window sticker help

Hey,  Im trying to reproduce the original lay-out and information that
would have been on a dealers window sticker for a 65 Cutlass. Does anybody
have any information on how I might go about finding this?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:49:56 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 70 Cutlass Wheel well chrome?

>What other body styles have rear wheel well trim that interchanges with a '70
>Cutlass convertible?  Does the "round shoulder" fastback body have the same
>wheel well shape?  The convertible looks closer to the "square shoulder"
Supreme
>fender but maybe they all use the same trim strip?

Beware! The front-fender trim will definitely interchange between a coupe
and convertible, and I'm sure the rear wheelwell trim is the same as well.

What you have to watch out for is the Supreme trim vs. all others. The
wheelwell trim from a Cutlass Supreme only extends down to the lower
molding, not all the way down to the bottom of the wheelwell, as does the
regular Cutlass/442 trim, even on the convertible.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:49:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Accelerator question

>Well, I got my Holley back on and started my Olds up.  Ran great!! 
>Except for one little problem.  My accelerator is sticking.  I think I
>got it figured out though.  From the pedal goes a wire to the lever. 
>When I push down on the pedal, the wire just does not return, and keeps
>pouring on the gas.  It scared me the first time I started it up, cuz I
>had pumped the pedal a couple times and when it started the engine was
>screaming so hard I thought it was going to blow!!!!!
>	Anyhow, how can I fix my accelerator?  Can I just put some grease or
>lube on it?

Hmmm, definitely lube your cable, but maybe you need stronger return springs
hooked up to the throttle?

Also make sure that the throttle shaft turns freely; if it is binding, it
could exhibit the same symptoms.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:49:59 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Just can't be satisfied... tuning tips for my 455?

I finally got the inspection sticker for my SX, so I'm all legal and
everything (finally!). For over a decade I thought I'd be happy just to hear
her running (and I am), but now that she's back on daily-driver status, I'm
starting to feel the need for a bit more power... <who couldn't see *that*
coming? :) > 

Real satisfaction will have to wait until I build up my 455 as a 445, but in
the meantime... I've got the '68 Toro engine in there, completely stock down
to the intake and carb, and I'd like to optimize that setup as much as
possible (once I pull it, it's going to be reunited with its original body
shell, which Don Ross is restoring... long story). Anything more radical
(cam change, porting, etc) will have to wait until the 445 buildup.

1) Since the low-profile Toro air cleaner wouldn't clear the Cutlass
throttle bracket, I went with an Edelbrock open-element 14" air cleaner. I'm
getting a slight bog just over, say, 1/8 throttle, which clears up with more
throttle. I've had this problem virtually every time I've replaced a snorkel
air-cleaner with an open-element one. I'm assuming I need a slightly richer
primary mixtuer; right now it's got the stock #71 jets, so should I move up
a size at a time and see if it improves? Or is the solution in the primary rods?

2) I'm going to recurve the distributor's mechanical and vacuum advance, but
people here have mentioned tuning by changing from the factory 30' dwell;
what's the advantage here, and which direction do you go, and what are the
limits here? What are the tradeoffs?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:56:32 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Boxed lower arms for '65

A warning for '65 (and I presume '64) owners of Olds with boxed lower arms.
 Prior to '66 the boxed section (that is the plates on the bottom) did not
extend all the way to the rear of the arm. It ended at the location of the 
back bolt that holds the sway bar.  The arm can crack starting at the
bottom and work it's way up the inside & ouside of the arm, eventually
breaking.  I caught my (past) '65 442 cracked half way up.
Fully boxed arms '66 & up won't do this.
Anyone else with '64-'65s have these "short" boxed arms?
BTW, I still have the cracked arms.

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:45:14 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Re: A-body frames

RCKTPWR- Look for additional gussets at the rear crossover.  Take a look at
yours and let me  (us) know what (or what else) you find.
Okay, Patton, look what you started!

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: RCKTPWR <RCKTPWR@aol.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: A-body frames
> Date: Tuesday, January 13, 1998 11:09 PM
> 
> In a message dated 1/13/98 10:31:38 PM Eastern Standard Time,
wmachine@en.com
> writes:
> 
> << Big block and small block convert frames are both boxed, but the BB
frames
>  are also gussetted in the rear.
>   >>
> HUH??  I have a BB olds 442 conv, and a SB 67 hard top.  Where is this
section
> located, now Im curious. Thanks 
> Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:02:48 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 65 window sticker help

Try Mark Cornea. He offers most all decals for Olds .Not sure if he
would have window sticker for 65 by if not he could probably direct you
to however would.  He has a web page and  e-mail -Drdecal.442@aol.com

Rgds,
R.Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 98 23:19:34 -0400
From: Mike Hall <oldsmike@flash.net>
Subject: Re: Accelerator question

>Well, I got my Holley back on and started my Olds up.  Ran great!! 
>Except for one little problem.  My accelerator is sticking.  I think I
>got it figured out though.  From the pedal goes a wire to the lever. 
>When I push down on the pedal, the wire just does not return, and keeps
>pouring on the gas.  It scared me the first time I started it up, cuz I
>had pumped the pedal a couple times and when it started the engine was
>screaming so hard I thought it was going to blow!!!!!
>	Anyhow, how can I fix my accelerator?  Can I just put some grease or
>lube on it? 

Erik,

The best thing to do is to throw away the accelerator throttle control 
cable. Once it is kinked, it is only a matter of time before it breaks or 
gets permanently stuck.

Good Luck,
Mike


Michael R. Hall: OCA #17903                    Ortonville, Michigan
Hall Communications, LLC.
E-Mail: oldsmike@flash.net

1972 Cutlass S - 1987 '88' Custom Cruiser - 1991 '88' Royale Broughm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:20:49 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: Lucky Day

Wyatt@jobax.net wrote:

> transfer the plate to.  Good thing I didn't get 747 or I might have
> wanted an airplane :-)

Or even worse... A Dodge carring the 747 Tranny.. <G>
- -- 
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
- - Here we go Steelers!!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:21:42 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 56 Olds 88 4door available

Dunno where, but here's an Olds one.

Forwarded message:
> From melanie@gte.net Wed Jan 14 22:56:20 1998
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:55:51 -0500
> From: Chris Lawrence <melanie@gte.net>
> Subject: 56 Olds 88 4door
>
> I have a 56 olds 88 4door sedan absolutly rust free no holes anywhere
> the front fenders and hood are gone but have other ones with rust .
> Car is not running but feel it would with minnor work Dash and interior
> is in real nice shape radio is gone missing right 1/4 mld       Car is
> very restorable and has a lot of good parts.Would like to get around
> $1000  If interested E-Mail me back or call
> 8148257095

> Rodger Lawrence
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 15:57:16 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Starting again!

Robin wrote:
> 
> Hi everyone, just another newbe to the group.
> 
> Time to start working on the old girl again. I started in 1980, but had
> to take a break...raise the kids. Well its time to start again.
> 
> She is a '69 Cutless S. All the plastic up front is chiped and looks
> bad. Also the inside is very rough. Need some tips on where to find good
> parts. Also need an idea of the price ranges. I've been out for so long,
> I'm an easy target to get ripped off.

Robin, I too have a 69 S (conv) with a parts problem or two.  I think
you will find getting it together will be much easier than raising kids.
Parts prices will vary according to a lot of things, rarity, condition,
part of the country, who's got them, etc.  Sometimes you get them for
almost nothing and other times it costs big time.  What part of the
country are you in?  

Anyway, you've found one of the best places to start.  The people on
this list are very educated on the subject of Oldsmobiles.  Welcome to
the fun and the group.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 20:22:37 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Webpage update

I have finally updated my webpage to incldue photo's of the whole herd.

Question that has probably been asked before - will standard doors on a '71
fit a convertible?  Someone with rust problems asked me.

Stop by & take a peek at my 'herd' - comments & suggestions welcome.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 20:35:02 -0800
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: What Can Go Wrong

Am sitting here waiting for the net to speed up, read over the comment on
cracking
rear arms and thought it might be interesting to review what can go wrong, and
in my case, has.  I can come up with two categories

Threatening the health of you and your passengers:

1) Qjets can leak at the gas inlet and cause engine fires
2) Lower a-arms can break off, ruining your whole day
3) Rear axle arms can break, see above
4) Single circuit hydrualic systems (pre68) can go and leave you with no
brakes
5) E-brake cables can snap from wear, leaving you only the hydraulic solution
6) Sticking (usually at WOT) throttles
7) Wiring harnesses that fry due to no apparent reason (see user error)

Annoying and inconvenient, but can lead to interesting stories:

1) Alternators frying batteries when the voltage regulator goes
2) Fuel pumps dying in the middle of I-5 between SF and LA ( "you want a fuel
pump for a sixty-what?")
3) Radiators leaking and all the fun of explaining to a date about refilling
4) Engines which run hot on long trips -- especially good when they're
great until
you really test 'em and then creep up slowly as if to challenge you
5) Windows that won't go up on rainy/cold days or down on hot ones
6) *&^)*&)#@@%$# Brake and reverse lights
7) Relays that go and resurrect themselves
8) Intermittent noises and smells

What has threatened your life or been an --in retrospect- funny story?

cf
Christian Fair

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:34:03 -0500
From: "DENNEY KEYS" <dkeys@pop700.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1057

Jason,

I think starting in 1973 all of the A body cars used a reinforced open
lower trailing arm instead of a boxed lower arm.  The reinforcement was a
"pipe" welded into the open control arm with the sway bar bolt passing
through it.  My 73 4-4-2 with the W-29 handling package has it as well. 
The pipe keeps the control arm from twisting in a similar fashion to that
of a boxed control arm.

I suspect that the Edelbrock modification is the same thing.

Denney Keys
66 Cutlass Convertible
71 Cutlass SX
73 4-4-2

> 
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 01:11:40 -0500
> From: "Jason K. Adcock" <jadcock@vt.edu>
> Subject: Boxed Lowers
> 
> All this talk of boxed lowers for our cars got me to thinking.  On my 84
> G-Body, the lowers are not boxed, but there is a good piece of metal
(looks
> kinda like a 3/4" piece of metal tube) inside of the control arm that the
> rear sway bar mounts with.  I can't really tell where this little tube
> goes, but Edelbrock (http://www.edelbrock.com) lists a tubular brace with
> their rear suspension kits for the G-Bodies.  Is this supposed to take
the
> place of boxed control arms?  Edelbrock doesn't say on the web if their
> suspension parts are boxed or not.  What could this tubular brace be for?
> 
> BTW, none of the G-Bodies had boxed lowers right?
> _____________________________
> 
> Jason K. Adcock
> mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
> http://www.erols.com/adcockjk
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:36:50 -0500
From: m-hanneman@onu.edu
Subject: Re: temp. guage

>I would make sure that the 180 degree thermostat is correct for your car.
>Mine is a 195 degree thermostat, I think.  Of course, I don't think that it
>could be THAT bad if it overcools a little bit..........

A lot of cutlass's recomend the 195 degree thermostat, however they do list
the 180 degree as an exceptible alternative.

Matt
85 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:46:22 -0500
From: m-hanneman@onu.edu
Subject: Re: temp. guage

At 11:36 PM 1/14/98 -0500, you wrote:
>>I would make sure that the 180 degree thermostat is correct for your car.
>>Mine is a 195 degree thermostat, I think.  Of course, I don't think that it
>>could be THAT bad if it overcools a little bit..........
>
>A lot of cutlass's recomend the 195 degree thermostat, however they do list
>the 180 degree as an exceptible alternative.
>
>Matt  >85 442
>
>Sorry, I should have specified, 350's and 307's from late 70's into the 80's.

>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:53:52 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: rear main seal

I've been meaning to ask this question for a while:  where can I get the
correct sized rubber seal for a 350?  I'm pissed that even though I
replaced mine it still leaks.

- - -Loris
===================
Chrysler dealer: 360 seal. Or, Mondello, or, NAPA store maybe, or, National
Automotive Lines maybe [800-428-4300]
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:56:24 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong

Christian Fair wrote:

> Annoying and inconvenient, but can lead to interesting stories:
> 3) Radiators leaking and all the fun of explaining to a date about refilling

Try running a little late when the heater bypass hose decides it's life
of service is over...  From the rear veiw, on a cold morning, with a hot
engine, it looks like you blew something up (actually looks like burning
oil, BADLY).  Then luckily pulling over to see what's smoking...  

> 4) Engines which run hot on long trips -- especially good when they're
> great until you really test 'em and then creep up slowly as if to challenge you

Or when you are stuck in rush hour traffic jams with nowhere to go... 
And nothing you can do about it in the middle lane on a packed
interstate.

> 6) *&^)*&)#@@%$# Brake and reverse lights

Ahhh, reverse lights... I've had the 87 for 3 mos now, and still have
YET to see those lights... People tell me that they are supposed to be
white, and light in above the rear bumper between the tail lights and
the liscense plate...  But what do they know... Must be on Chevys..  <G>

> 8) Intermittent noises and smells

That awesome "buring electrical smell".  Makes me pull over every
time...  Only once has the smell come from my own car, my own
stupidity...  Got the scar that says the wire running to the CB from the
battery was melting, fast, buring, I think it's called...  You know, I
think there's a REASON why that wire (the positive) is called a "HOT"
lead.
 
> What has threatened your life or been an --in retrospect- funny story?

Tearing a whole dash apart, swearing the alarm is causing the rear
lights to "not light" without checking the trunk harness first.  After
realizing that's the culprit, checking to see if anyone's looking... 
hahaha

- -- 
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
- - Here we go Steelers!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 00:05:45 -0500
From: loris <loris@tir.com>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong

Christian Fair wrote:
> 
> Am sitting here waiting for the net to speed up, read over the comment on
> cracking
> rear arms and thought it might be interesting to review what can go wrong, and
> in my case, has.  I can come up with two categories
> 
> Threatening the health of you and your passengers:


Christian:

Try this one for some fun . . .I put the key in the ignition, turn it,
and my horn goes off!  What's that all about?

- -Loris

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:57:13 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: valve adjustments

According to a book I got outa the library today it says when placing
the rockers back onto the head to tighten them till the pushrod is tight
where it cant rotate unless you use alot of force.. Then to tighted the
rocker bolt one full turn. (It says this places the hydralic lifters at
center ?)
================

That sounds like Chevy voodoo! Olds rockers are designed to be tightened right
on down to the spec- 25 ft# I believe....
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 21:11:38 PST
From: "John Stolarski" <oldscs350@hotmail.com>
Subject: Content-Type: text/plain

unsubscribe oldsmobile

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 00:35:55 EST
From: Markintime <Markintime@aol.com>
Subject: Re: valve adjustments

Hi Chris,
The name of the game when it comes to hydraulic lifters is preload on the
lifter.
Typical practice is to place the lifter on the base of the cam lobe and then
tighten the nut on the rocker while turning the pushrod between your fingers.
When you are no longer able to turn the pushrod easily ( and that's somewhat
subjective ) then you are at zero lash on the lifter.  From there you normally
continue turning the nut another 1/4 to 1/2 turn, depending on the engine.
I've never heard of a full turn but whatever.
When speaking about Old's engines, I believe Joe Mondello recommends 60
thousandths preload on the lifter, but don't quote me on that.  If you want to
be really picky you could always set the preload with a dial indicator ( very
time consuming ).

The design of the Old's valve train is such that if all things are at factory
spec,
ie.. deck height is correct, heads thickness is correct, valves are at the
correct depth in the head, pushrods are the correct length, then torqueing the
rockers to the spec'd
torque will achieve the proper lifter preload.  You can see how this becomes
problematic when dealing with a rebuilt engine, decked block, milled heads, 
improper valve job, different base circle diameter on the camshaft
etc,etc,etc..
That's why I'm a firm believer in aftermarket valve trains in rebuilt Old's
engines.  I think it's the only way to guarantee proper valve train geometry.

Hope you find the info helpful.

Mark Berube
Loganville, GA.
67' 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 01:29:24 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong

> 1) Qjets can leak at the gas inlet and cause engine fires

Just changed the fuel filter on my '76 Monte Carlo (the carb is from the 350 that
originally came in my '76 Cutlass, btw :) and found that you've REALLY gotta make
sure you don't crossthread that blasted fitting - not an easy task when you're
sitting atop your radiator and holding the nose of the carb up so you can work
around the thermostat housing!  (on a SB Chevy  :)  I don't think I've run from
under the hood to the kill switch so fast in my life.

> 3) Rear axle arms can break, see above

Been there, done that - at 50mph my left lower rear A-arm split in 2 and I almost
nosed the Monte into a 10' deep ditch (which would have been an improvement to the
car I'm sure I'll hear, but it wouldn't help MY appearance any!!

> 3) Radiators leaking and all the fun of explaining to a date about refilling
> 4) Engines which run hot on long trips -- especially good when they're
> great until
> you really test 'em and then creep up slowly as if to challenge you

Yup - ruptured the lower hose and didn't know it for a while - it leaked that
slowly - the temperature just seemed a bit higher every day or so, and I REALLY
started to suspect something when the temp climbed up to 230-240 when shut off.  I
heard a funny echoing sound when I called "Hello!" down into the rad when I
cracked it open one day.  :)

> 7) Wiring harnesses that fry due to no apparent reason (see user error)

> 8) Intermittent noises and smells

Actually, while speaking about these two things, I've got a question.  In my '76
Monte, when I'm running with the high-beams on, after about 3-5 minutes the lights
actually start to go out, specifically they will go out briefly and come back on,
then out for a longer time and back on, and longer and longer each time they'll be
off, and if you let it do this without switch to low beams again you start to
smell this funny smell.  As a note, the little blue indicator light on the dash
stays on all the time, it doesn't go out when the lights do.  Any ideas as to the
culprit?  The car's done it since I got it 3 years ago, but the lows work
perfectly fine.

- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
468 BigBlock '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 01:35:23 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Huffing more glue

While huffing more Elmer's I wrote:

> Been there, done that - at 50mph my left lower rear A-arm split in 2 and I almost

Now when was the last time you saw an "A-arm" on the back of your A-body???
He-he-he...I know, I know...must be a "Chevy" thing.  Pardon my slip, people...I meant
CONTROL arm.
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
468 BigBlock '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 09:14:29 +0300
From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Subject: Re: Ignited

John Pajak wrote:

>     I know we have beat the ignition upgrade debate to death before
> with a majority of the vote going to the HEI, BUT; due to a ücrazyü
<snip>
> want to be able to buy the trigger separately so that I can use my
> choice of box....HAYS, MSD, etc.  

Why do You want to use electronic trigger ?

If You are not running a race engine it will be better (IMHO) to
keep on the points. They will wear but significantly slowlier
when You put a MSD in there. The wearing will be slowlier because
of the missing inductive load when using MSD or similar device.
On the other hand the points are designed to wear in a way that
keeps the timing constant throughout the entire life of the
points.
Involving a MSD will imbalance the wearing but it can be
compensated by narrowing the dwell angle which is not so
important matter when You are using MSD (or equal) because the
MSD device itself cares about that.

The electrical pickup will be very accurate itself. However,
most of the inaccuracy is not coming from the points but merely
from the driving gear and other mechanical inaccuracies. Also
the vacuum and rev. slope components aren't so very accurate.
You have very little (if none) increase in accuracy by changing
the trigger because this is not the source of the inaccuracy.

Also (IMHO) the old style distributor REQUIRES some friction
which electrical pickup cant't offer, to keep in specs. Yes,
I know there is an oil pump down there....

If You want to keep the original look but want to modernize
the ignition consider crank triggering. I don't know what
kind of equipment You can get to make use of this method but
it would give You maximal accuracy. Also, because this system
has to take care of the timing slope electrically it will be
easier to adjust for Your engine. Again, I don't know what I'm
talking about but this comes out of common sense.

- -- 
x----------------------------------------------------x
x Esko Ilola              mailto:esko.ilola@tele.fi  x
x                          phone:+358 2040 3439      x
x Oldsmobile 98 -64 4DHT  Holiday sports sedan       x
x "Where the action is...."                          x
x----------------------------------------------------x

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 02:59:39 +0500
From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong

>What has threatened your life or been an --in retrospect- funny story?

Most of my problems have just been annoying and inconvenient.

- -Walked out to the Vista Cruiser one evening after class to find the
driver's side low beam hanging by the wiring harness and sorta resting on
the edge of the bumper.  It was actually pretty gotesque looking, like when
someone gets their eyeball popped out in a cheesy horror movie.  It turns
out the chrome ring that holds in the headlight had broken loose from the
little tabs that the mounting screws run through.  I remembered noticing a
rattle that morning on the way to school.

- -Another time I parked the car, shut off the engine, removed the key, and
got hit in the knee by the end of the ignition switch lock as it fell off.
It's the little chrome thumbwheel thingie that the key slides into and gives
you  extra leverage as you twist the key.  And here's the zinger:  The part
that fell off can't be re-attatched, the lock has to be replaced.  To remove
the lock assembly, you have to pull it out by the part that fell off!
AAAAAAACK!
For right now I've just been living with the busted ignition lock since I'm
a little worried I won't be able to get it out and I might end up ruining it
trying.  It still locks and starts the car, it's just ugly and hard to turn.

- -The VC sat in the same spot in the woods for a couple of years while it was
waiting for me to become old enough to drive.  As a result it became a
favorite winter storage spot for the local squirrels and home to a number of
mice.  I tried to clean up all the mess they left but when I started driving
it an occasional acorn would fall out from under the dash or out of the
heater when i hit a bump.  Took 2 years for the acorns to finally clear up.  


Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 98 04:15:01 -0500
From: dale1@cyburban.com
Subject: Win a 1968 Classic Mustang Convertible!

Want to win a beautiful 1968 classic Ford Mustang Convertible?  One lucky winner will do just that and twenty four runners up will receive a cash award of $100 each!  

This is a contest to give away a beautiful 1968 classic Ford Mustang Convertible.  A web site (http://www.classiccarcontest.com) has been created to explain the contest and to showcase the car.  Simply go there and enter.  You could be that one lucky winner!

This is not a gimmick or a fancy scheme.  Its a true legitimate contest.  The contest is being promoted by the web site above, the help of Mustang Illustrated (see September 1997 issue, page 11) and other promotional sources.  The rules have been filed with the office of the Attorney General, state of New York.  

Thank you and good luck!  We look forward to hearing from you.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 07:26:07 -0600
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: 455 head gasket replacement

- -----Original Message-----
From: Markintime <Markintime@aol.com>
> If you're running an aluminum intake don't use stock gaskets,
>they won't seal at the reduced torque when running an aluminum intake.

Didn't the mid-late '80s 307 engines use the stock gaskets with aluminum
intakes?

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 05:14:49 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Just can't be satisfied... tuning tips for my 455?

Robert Barry wrote:

> 2) I'm going to recurve the distributor's mechanical and vacuum
>    advance, but people here have mentioned tuning by changing from
>    the factory 30' dwell;

To what?  I am not clear here.

>    what's the advantage here, and which direction do you go, and 
>    what are the limits here? What are the tradeoffs?

I would like to know too.


Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 05:21:18 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Webpage update

Lisa,

> Stop by & take a peek at my 'herd' - comments & suggestions welcome.

I tried, however, your site killed my mail server and web server (using
Netscape) processes.  Are you using Java?  If so then that is it.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 05:21:22 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: ignited

     Bob Valentine wrote that the Mopar spark box could even be
triggered by points! I was wondering if it could. That would be
great.......cutting the voltage the points would need to switch would
increase their life....plus the Mopar box is cheap! Do you have a
wiring diagram?
     I'm in digest mode but still hanging in there on the list! It's a
habit I can't break!
     BTW the grand 30x40 garage project is progressing, however
slowly. The basic structure is up and the roof trusses are on. Now
~all~ I have to do is get the roof sheathing (50 pieces of plywood)
and shingles up and some doors on it and I'll be closed in....oh well
back to work :)

===
John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

65 Delta 88 2dr    70 Cutlass S 2dr       72 Cutlass conv   
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31       72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr   70 442 W30 conv        72 442 W30 conv 
70 Cutlass S 2dr   71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme
+ others


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 08:39:32 EST
From: ANTIQ OLDS <ANTIQOLDS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Gevo's,  was are these good prices

In a message dated 98-01-14 22:32:35 EST, you write:

<< 
 I bought my posi (rebuilt) from a place in N.Y. called Gevos they have posis
 and gears.  I payed $250.00 and they even C.O.D. unfortunately I can't seem
to
 find the number. I originally got the number from  Hemmings Motor News which
 is refered to as the bible for used parts, (down here in Miami I've yet to
 find a swap meet that has anything for olds).  If you are really interested I
 can dig a little deeper and probably find that number.  If you've never
bought
 or seen that Hemmings book you really should try to buy one there great!!!!
  >>
  I meet Gevo at a lot of Northeast swapmeets  very nice guy, he is always
buying

  Gevo's Rears & Gears
  31 Porter St PO Box 428
  Seneca Falls N.Y. 13148-0428

  1-315-568-9744   after 6PM 

  Hope this is helpful


Everett  OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 08:48:22 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for 1968 and 1972 MI plates

>Looking for someone to sell me (2) 1968 Michigan license plates and (2)
1972 Michigan license plates.>
>
>-Loris>


How does a BRAND NEW pair of '68 and/or '72 plates for $15. - $20. a pair
strike you!?!

Call this guy;                  Gordon  Dieterle
                                        (517) 521-3544

He lives in Webberville, MI and is a license plate collector.  I bought a
pair of brand new 1971 plates from him last summer at the Olds Homecoming
show in Lansing.  At that time I only paid $15.00 for the pair.  What a deal
I think.  Hell, I was expecting to pay $30.

MAKE SURE you buy a MATCHED pair!  As Gordon told me, if you only buy one it
may be possible that someone has the other one and has already registered
it.  Thus making "your" plate un-registerable.

I knew I kept his business card for something.  Good Luck!

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
1995 Achieva S

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 08:49:54 EST
From: CRuper1 <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong

In a message dated 98-01-14 23:39:53 EST, you write:

<< 
 Am sitting here waiting for the net to speed up, read over the comment on
 cracking
 rear arms and thought it might be interesting to review what can go wrong,
and
 in my case, has.  I can come up with two categories
 
 Threatening the health of you and your passengers:
 
>snipped for sanity<

 What has threatened your life or been an --in retrospect- funny story?
 
 cf
 Christian Fair >>

No stories from me, but I do know one thing...  You can stay away from my
car!!! :-)
Geez, of all the luck...., I don't need any of yours....

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 09:11:43 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: NON-Expiring registration for Michigan

<Thanks RC! But what if I want to drive my car to school everyday? Or
what if I want to park it at night an hang out? Or what if I want to
drive to Toledo? Does the "ETC" cover that? Would I just be better
keeping my regular plates?>


MY POINT EXACTLY!  What ~does~ "etc" mean legally?  Nice little loop-hole
here.  As far as you keeping your plates, that's up to you.  My car isn't a
daily driver and is rarely driven at night, since those deer can really
wipe-out a front end!

As far as the law states, a car in MI with "Historical Vehical" plates can
only be driven to parades, shows, and club functions.  I have NEVER seen or
heard of anyone getting a ticket for violating this law.  It just doesn't
happen.  And that's good!  I was just making light of this "loop-hole" for
authentic registrations that's all.

Last summer I talked to alot of guys with "Historical" Plates that never
knew about the Authentic registration.  They seemed very interested once I
told them.  It's a great deal and I want everyone to take advantage of it.
I even keep a secretary of state's brochure in my car as back-up in case I
ever encounter a gung-ho cop who doesn't believe me about not needing tabs.
All three times I was pulled over, the cops just looked at my proof of
registration with their mouth hanging open.   :)    The police in my area
don't mess with you if your driving a nice classic.  Unless of course you do
a brake torque in front of them.  Whoops.........

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
1995 Achieva S

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 09:47:12 -0500
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong

Chris Fair, With Time On His Hands, Wonders:

> Am sitting here waiting for the net to speed up, read over the comment on
> cracking
> rear arms and thought it might be interesting to review what can go wrong, and
> in my case, has.  I can come up with two categories

Well, I'm waiting for some folks to show up to run some tests on a box,
so with the time *I* have on my hands, I'll respond...

> Threatening the health of you and your passengers:
> 
> 2) Lower a-arms can break off, ruining your whole day

No, but I had a lower ball joint on my Feeble Italian Attempt at Transportation
give up the ghost at 65 mph in the fast lane, releasing the driver's side
front wheel from its bonds, and causing the the car and I -- top down natch --
to become one with the guard rail.  This happened on a Friday afternoon; the 
day before my girlfriend at the time and I broke up on rather bad terms, so
all in all it wasn't the very best start to a weekend.

The event caused suprisingly little body and suspension damage.  It gave me
the excuse to repaint the car.  Drove it another 7 years, too.  Still on the
road today as far as I know.

Got *awfully* anal-retentive about maintaining tight front ends in all my cars
after that.

> 4) Single circuit hydrualic systems (pre68) can go and leave you with no
> brakes

Pre-67, to be specific.  And yes,  had fun in this regard in a '66 Catalina.

> 6) Sticking (usually at WOT) throttles

This happened in the aforementioned Fiat.  Also, the throttle return spring on
my '67 Barracuda convert let go one night, causing the poor ol' slant 6 to wind
its li'l heart out until I got to the ignition.  Luckily, it seemed not to
suffer any internal damage.

> 7) Wiring harnesses that fry due to no apparent reason (see user error)

This also happened in the Cuda (and Big Red), but the reason was apparent
in both cases, and they were both related to sound systems installed by moi :)

> Annoying and inconvenient, but can lead to interesting stories:
> 
> 1) Alternators frying batteries when the voltage regulator goes

The Fiat did this, too, while driving from NJ to Mass.  As the battery was 
in the trunk -- guess it was a W-30 124 Spyder :) -- the sulphuric acid smell
from the overcharged bubbling battery permeated all our clothes in the trunk :P
It took weeks to get rid of the smell from the car...

> 
> What has threatened your life or been an --in retrospect- funny story?

I had a fuel guage in a '72 Catalina convertible that never wanted to be
read correctly, which resulted in our running out of gas about 2 miles
from my girlfriend's apartment one moonlit night.  She and I had a nice
romantic wlk back to her place.  Her roommate, on the other hand, who was with
us with her dinner date, refused to speak to me for a week, and vowed never
again to let me drive.



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 07:52:16 -0700
From: Tom Starkey <tstarkey@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong

Jerry Christopher wrote:

> 
> > Annoying and inconvenient, but can lead to interesting stories:
> > 3) Radiators leaking and all the fun of explaining to a date about refilling
> 
> Try running a little late when the heater bypass hose decides it's life
> of service is over...  From the rear veiw, on a cold morning, with a hot
> engine, it looks like you blew something up (actually looks like burning
> oil, BADLY).  Then luckily pulling over to see what's smoking...
> 
This brought back bad memories, I bought a 69 c*rv*tt* in the middle of
January. Not wanting to go through the proper hassles of getting legal
plates to drive it home with, I pulled the plates off of another of my
cars. Just got on the highway, heater and defrost on high, the heater
core or the hose (don't remember which) breaks inside the car! Flooded
the carpet with hot antifreeze, instantly fogged the windows and left me
stranded with the wrong plates on the interstate. 

Whose idea was to remember this stuff?

Tom Starkey - 68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 09:05:34 -0600
From: "Daren & Laurie Hendley" <daren@revealed.net>
Subject: Re: Webpage update

>Lisa,
>
>> Stop by & take a peek at my 'herd' - comments & suggestions welcome.
>
>I tried, however, your site killed my mail server and web server (using
>Netscape) processes.  Are you using Java?  If so then that is it.
>
>Chris Sparks
>

Looked good and had no problems. IE4

Daren

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 09:56:27 -0500
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong

> 7) Wiring harnesses that fry due to no apparent reason (see user error)

Oh yeah, I had forgotten -- My '89 Fleetwood did this to me last year, coming
home from Cape Cod towing our little utility trailer.  I has six people in the
car, tooling along on I-495, when all of a sudden I smell burning wires, and see
smoke curling around the steering wheel from the steering column.  A good
amount of smoke, too.  After cutting across a coupla lanes of traffic and
hustling everyone -- wife, kids, mother-in-law, etc -- out of the car,
I waited for the Caddy to burn.  Luckily, it didn't happen.  A new directional
switch and harness corrected it after I limped the car home, the trailer's
lights detached, as I kept looking at the steering wheel waiting to see a fire.

> 8) Intermittent noises and smells

My first Caddy was a beautiful '72 Coupe de Ville, Green w/ green interior.
The car had 50k when it was given to me.  It ran great, but if I was driving
anywhere more than an hour away, I started to get this sickening smell, like
burning insulation.  We never did figure out where it was coming from.



Tim Churchill
- -------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, a.k.a. 'Der KinderWagen'
'91 Mazda Protege, a.k.a. 'The Next Car to be Replaced'

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 10:08:57 -0500
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: Mike's misread message.

Mike, hold on there. When I said "Mike has corrected me", I meant it. I
agree with your correction. Flooding was too strong of a word. We are
both on the same side. No need to apologize, I don't accept yours,
because it wasn't warranted.

And yes, the parts people do tend push parts that are over kill in most
cases. But so far I have stayed away from them. 

Fernando Proietto
A/Manager
Systems Analyst - Informatics Division
Environment Canada
Atmospheric Environment Branch - Ontario Region
4905 Dufferin St. 
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: 	MROTHE[SMTP:MROTHE@prodigy.net]
> Sent: 	Wednesday, January 14, 1998 4:48 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: Fernando's misread message.
> 
> > Well of course that's what I meant. But Mike has corrected me
> > accordingly. Thank you...
> > 
> Fernando, 
> 
> Dude, don't take it personally, I wasn't trying to step on anyone's
> toes.  And I wasn't trying to "correct" anyone.  The way I read your
> post was that in your opinion you'd automatically flood your engine by
> using a bigger cfm carb.  I simply stated that I somewhat disagreed,
> that's all.  I apologize if I misread your post.  Your VE calculations
> were a definite help for anyone needing to know where to start when
> choosing the right size cfm rating for the carb.
> 
> I was on one of those "crack-it-open-and-see-how-it-really-works"
> tangents.  I thought the explanation of why bigger cfm carbs aren't
> always better would hopefully discourage others from buying parts that
> ain't right for their application just because some guy at the parts
> store says it is.  A lot of the parts guys DO know what they're
> talking
> about, it's that small percentage of "door-knobs" you want to avoid.
> 
> Mike Rothe
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 98 15:52:46 UT
From: "kent hoffman" <olds_cutlass@classic.msn.com>
Subject: ADMIN:PLEASE REMOVE

PLEASE REMOVE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST. THANKS

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 98 16:08:58 UT
From: "kent hoffman" <olds_cutlass@classic.msn.com>
Subject: ADMIN:PLEASE REMOVE

PLEASE REMOVE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST. THANKS

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 10:28:21 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Webpage update

I like the page!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 11:44:21 -0500
From: Miguel Morales <Miguel.Morales@mci.com>
Subject: Re: Soylent Ocean Green Door Stop 

I sent this to someone else with starting problems but the same should
apply Karl:

Do you have a timing light. If you do, in order to see if you are
getting spark to the plugs, hook it up while cranking, If you can crank
the car while underneath the hood, See where your timing is. It should
be pretty close to TDC at cranking speeds. If it still doesn't start, at
50 degrees of dwell it'd be a good guess on my part that the gap on your
points is too wide, you did say you had a point distributor, although
I'm not sure at this point; this thread has been going for a couple
weeks now. If it still won't start and you have a good spark then I'd
look elsewhere like fuel or plugs. Dump some gas into the carb. If it's
cold where you are make sure the choke flap is completely shut while
starting, especially if its a big block. If you think timing has jumped
substantially then remove the driver side valve cover and check to see
for both valve closed at #1 Cylinder at Top Dead Center. 

1984 H/O
1972 Dodge Charger 440
1985 Camaro 6-banger
1988 Buick LeSabre T-type 6-banger

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 12:19:11 -0500
From: Roy Beard <royb@erols.com>
Subject: unscribe oldsmobile



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 12:19:43 -0500
From: Roy Beard <royb@erols.com>
Subject: unsubscribe oldsmobile

Miguel Morales wrote:
> 
> I sent this to someone else with starting problems but the same should
> apply Karl:
> 
> Do you have a timing light. If you do, in order to see if you are
> getting spark to the plugs, hook it up while cranking, If you can crank
> the car while underneath the hood, See where your timing is. It should
> be pretty close to TDC at cranking speeds. If it still doesn't start, at
> 50 degrees of dwell it'd be a good guess on my part that the gap on your
> points is too wide, you did say you had a point distributor, although
> I'm not sure at this point; this thread has been going for a couple
> weeks now. If it still won't start and you have a good spark then I'd
> look elsewhere like fuel or plugs. Dump some gas into the carb. If it's
> cold where you are make sure the choke flap is completely shut while
> starting, especially if its a big block. If you think timing has jumped
> substantially then remove the driver side valve cover and check to see
> for both valve closed at #1 Cylinder at Top Dead Center.
> 
> 1984 H/O
> 1972 Dodge Charger 440
> 1985 Camaro 6-banger
> 1988 Buick LeSabre T-type 6-banger

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 13:01:50 EST
From: CRuper1 <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong

In a message dated 98-01-15 02:59:46 EST, you write:

<< 
 -The VC sat in the same spot in the woods for a couple of years while it was
 waiting for me to become old enough to drive.  As a result it became a
 favorite winter storage spot for the local squirrels and home to a number of
 mice.  I tried to clean up all the mess they left but when I started driving
 it an occasional acorn would fall out from under the dash or out of the
 heater when i hit a bump.  Took 2 years for the acorns to finally clear up.  
 
 
 Greg Pruett >>

While my first car was waiting for me to age (a '63 Galaxie), I found that the
hornets seemed to like to nest somewhere underneath.  Was fun finding that the
first time....

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 13:12:43 -0500
From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Subject: Rochester 2-Jet I.D.

Hey, I'm trying to find out what these carbs originally came on:

7029683
7031575

If anyone has some way of refrencing this for me, it would me much
appreciated.

Thanks!


Michael A. Evans
evans1@net-link.net
Richland, MI

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 13:41:23 -0600
From: JR <joertexas@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: What Can Go Wrong

I used to drive castoff VW Bettles that my Dad wore out first. There
were two incidents with these cars that I still remember vividly. 

The first happened while I was drving down the highway at 60+ MPH. I
noticed that the Bug suddenly was really squirrely and hard to hold in
the road. Looking in my side mirror, I saw the car's left rear wheel
attempting to pass me. I managed to get the car stopped without touching
the brakes, which, since the drum was now off the car, would have blown
the shoes right off. I then collected the wheel and the wheel nut, and,
with a little help from a friendly motorist, put the wheel back on. 

The other incident happened in a different Bug. I was driving down the
road when the engine suddenly quit. The cause, I found out later, was
that I had neglected to put hose clamps on the gas line to the carb and
it popped off. Instead of stopping and investigating the cause of the
engine failure, I pushed in the clutch, downshifted to third, and popped
the clutch. The mechanical fuel pump operated as advertised, and pumped
fuel all over the hot engine compartment. My first indication of a
problem was the orange fireball that rolled up the back window. I
hastily pulled over and promptly extinguished the fire with the only
liquid I had available, a half-full bottle of Coke.

Live and learn.

JR
72 Cutlass S

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1058
*********************************

