
oldsmobile-digest      Monday, January 12 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1053



Re: Quadrajet Questions
Re: More about 69 mirrors
Re: 72 olds bumper
s
'69 H/O (fwd)
Re: 69 non-remote mirrors
Re: Rear Side Markers
'55 Starfire Model
hello
TCI Streetfighter TH-2004R
Brake Lights won't work 84 H/O
Re: Rear Side Markers
Re: Quadrajet Questions
Re: TCI Streetfighter TH-2004R
Re: TCI Streetfighter TH-2004R
toronados
Ultimate parts car
A little non-olds stuff
New Guy with some ?'s on 71 442
wtd: '53 1/4's...
Re: Ultimate parts car
#7 heads, on 403?
wtd: H hds, 71 w-parts
Re: Ultimate parts car
SSII - SSIII (Help)
455 head gasket replacement
subscribe....to list
unsubscribe....digest
Help evaluate 68 442?
Re: SSII - SSIII (Help)
W31
bb vs. sb frame
HB repair sleeve does WHAT?
heads to use
Re: SSII - SSIII (Help)
main seal replacement
front bolt
Re: 455 head gasket replacement
Wanted: 69' 442 Cruise Control Transducer
Re: Info request
Re: Garage Queen problem - 93 SCX
duel gate installation
Re: Show Books
New Motor Problems
Re: HB repair sleeve does WHAT?
Re: NEW CUTLASS BODY STYLE
Re: Some more mechanical questions.
Re: High Heater problems
Ram Air, still trying
68 Mirror prob!
Re: W31
Re: New Motor Problems
Stolen '83 H/O
TH350 Swap
Re: TH350 Swap
Re: Rear Side Markers
Re: main seal replacement
Olds Centennial Club Mtg 1/13 (Maryland)
Ram Air in the Rain/68 W30 Carb
Re: Wanted: 69' 442 Cruise Control Transducer
Air shocks
Re: 68 Mirror prob!
RE: High Heater problems

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 16:41:34 -0500
From: loris <loris@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Quadrajet Questions

Matt Cremean wrote:
> 
> I looked at the casting number on my QJ today. The number is 7042250.
> This means it's from a '72! Now I'll never know if I have an L-34 or
> L-35! Then there's a number below that that says 0392. I'm guessing this
> means March 9, 72?
> 
> Also, does anybody know where I can get my hands on a Rochester
> QUADRAjET logo, perhaps as an image file. I'd like to do something with
> it and that invloves having it on the computer.
> --
> **********************************
> Matt Cremean
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
> CreamerSoftİ Software
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
> 1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
> **********************************

Matt:

I recently asked a question on the list about the difference between an
L34 and L35.  Other than the vehicle it was used in and diffenent engine
accessories like air cleaner and such there is no difference.

- -Loris

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 16:41:47 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: More about 69 mirrors

> Mike....more about mirrors.  Did the 69 442 come with an optional
> passanger side mirror to match the chrome remote drivers side mirror.
> Who supplies new remote LH and optional RH side mirrors if available.

I'm not that sure about the RH mirror with remotes.  The 69 442 order
form only lists D33 as driver's remote mirror.  Nothing was mentioned
about a RH though.  I would imagine that you could've got one, since
some of those old order forms were quickly obsolete.  Personally, every
69 Cutlass/442 I've ever owned (5), besides the H/O, had the single
driver's remote.  Another list member said something about a vendor
repopping the non-remotes, but that's the only thing I've heard about
the mirrors.

Mike Rothe

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 17:08:48 -0800
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: 72 olds bumper

ted rollins wrote:

> Would anyone on the list happen to have or know of someone that has a
> good
> straight rust free front bumper for 72 cutlass. I'm in the upper part
> of
> N.C.if you have one.
>
> Ted Rollins
> 63 chevy truck
> 66 olds cutlass
> 72 olds cutlass
> 94 olds cutlass

   theres a guy that has fenders...doors...and bumpers for a 1972
cutlass in columbia sc area...if you don't mind the drive he's asking
$90 for the front...and the same for the rear....fenders are $75 a
pop....his # is 803-695-2575...i'm thinking about calling on a left
front fender for a buddy of mine in akron,ohio...he has a 1970 442
hardtop...it has a nasty front fender...and you can't beat
$75.00...Hoagie


1970 Cutlass SX
1971 442 W30 convertible
1971 442 "hardtop coupe"
1971 Monte Carlo
1969 Camaro RS
1997 Camaro Z-28

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 15:18:26 -0700
From: "Clarence R. Isaacks II" <ike.isaacks-denver@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: s

unsubscribe oldsmobile ike.isaacks-denver@worldnet.att.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 18:55:45 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: '69 H/O (fwd)

Forwarding from a non-member... reply directly to him.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"edward kristy" <HURSTOLDS@prodigy.net>
Subject: 1969 hurstolds 

I  NEED  H*LP ! ! !   I  AM  TRYING  TO  RESTORE  A  69  HURSTOLDS  THAT  I
  BOUGHT  FROM  A  GUY  WHO  WAS  SELLING  THE  PARTS  .  I  ALREADY  FOUND
 SEATS,  SHIFTER,  RIMS  AND  WINDOWS  .  NOW  ALL  I  NEED  IS  THE  HOOD 
AND  2  H/O  EMBLEMS.  IF  ANYONE  CAN  HELP  ME  FIND  ANY  OF  THESE 
PARTS  PLEASE  CONTACT  ME  AT   HURSTOLDS@prodigy.net    

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 18:57:41 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 69 non-remote mirrors

On Sun, 11 Jan 1998, M&D Gillespie wrote:

> Following this thread brings up a question. Both the driver and
> passenger side chrome mirrors are loose and move out of adjustment
> everytime a door is closed. How can they be tightened up? Is there an
> adjustment on the inside, or are they just worn out?

I have the same problem with mine. Last year I had some success with 
working some body caulk into the socket to tighten it up but that was 
only temporary. This year I might try some sort of stickum. They just 
seem to wear and get loose.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 19:08:26 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Rear Side Markers

To further add to the confusion: I have a pair of side markers that I was 
told came from a '69, but they do not match the numbers quoted here earlier:

The housing has "Guide 35 P168" stamped on the back.

The lens has "SAE P168" and "Guide 39" embossed on opposite sides, and a 
part # of 5960481 in the center. 

The chrome outer bezel has a casting # of 400841 on the backside.

Anyone know what these are from? Full-size maybe, or Toro?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 18:10:34 -0500
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: '55 Starfire Model

Hit the local Toys-R-Us today and found a Road Champs 1/43 scale model
(5" long) of a '55 Starfire convertible.  The car is a two tone orange
and cream.  The interior detail is lacking, but the exterior detail is
quite good for an $8 model.  It even comes with a billboard of the car
in a display case.
- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 18:51:54 EST
From: OldsGuyGA <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: hello

 hoagie, jeff in atl...

  got a car from your state yesterday..70 delta 4dr from anderson... 
 bought new at minyard's....

  haven't talked to you in a while.. write back  jeff oldss guy ga..

   i also habe some front 72 bumpers...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 19:04:46 -0600
From: Shang <shang@wans.net>
Subject: TCI Streetfighter TH-2004R

Does no know anything about these trannys or did my post not make it?

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 20:01:13 -0500
From: "Gilbert Russell" <russellg@dmv.com>
Subject: Brake Lights won't work 84 H/O

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BD1ECB.AB428660
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Looking for some help from the group on this one.

Given the following information what should I do next.

Steering column was recently replaced due to the theft of the vehicle.  I'm
not familiar with the wiring in the column.  I'm going to assume that the
shop that did the repairs just over looked testing the stop lights.  I live
over a hundred miles away from where the insurance repairs were performed
and it would probably cost me more to go back and complain.

Fuse is good
All bulbs are good.
Hazard lights work
Turn signals work
Stop light switch has been replaced.


There are two connectors attached to the stoplight switch.  Per my chilton's
manual one is for the stop lights and the other is to cancel the cruise
control ( it is not working either but I'll save that for another day)

The stop light connector has  Orange and White leads.  There is 13.0v+-
coming off of the orange lead the diagram I have show this to be the hot at
all times.  The white is a mystery to me I used my multimeter on the
connector to check the circuit.  its open!    My wiring diagram show that
this wire goes into the Turn/Hazard switch (Where is this located at?).
What should I do next to fix this problem any help you can give will help.

Thanks



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FN:Gilbert K Russell
EMAIL;INTERNET:russellg@fm436.dover.af.mil
EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:Russellg@dmv.com
REV:19980112T010112Z
END:VCARD

- ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BD1ECB.AB428660--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 20:04:12 EST
From: Convcutl69 <Convcutl69@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Side Markers

On the 69 cutlass S the lens behind the center part of the Rocket housing is
the # 5960234  3 on one, on the other is 5960234  2. On the 68 it is 5960234
5. On the Rocket housing on the 69 is 403903   49401.That's both sides. On the
68 the # is48601      3    LH-400843. I don't have a RH 68. 
   The 68 has a wider side profile, so as to follow the steeper angle of the
rear quarter I would presume. So for what it's worth the 68 and 69 would be
different but probably interchangeable and unnoticable to nearly everyone.
                                         Mike W

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 20:14:54 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: Quadrajet Questions

Matt Cremean wrote:

> Also, does anybody know where I can get my hands on a Rochester
> QUADRAjET logo, perhaps as an image file. I'd like to do something with
> it and that invloves having it on the computer.

My 87 Q-Jet has a logo on the side, and, yes I took pics, but
unfortunately, the logo and the carb are the same color, so I can't help
<G>...  I was trying to do the same thing you are thinking...
- -- 
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
- - Here we go Steelers!!!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 20:24:05 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: TCI Streetfighter TH-2004R

Shang wrote:
> 
> Does no know anything about these trannys or did my post not make it?
> 


Your message is here, but I haven't had any dealings with TCI's 200
4-R.  So I cannot comment.  Did you call TCI?  I'd start there.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 20:46:04 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: TCI Streetfighter TH-2004R

MROTHE wrote:

> > Does no know anything about these trannys or did my post not make it?
> >
> 
> Your message is here, but I haven't had any dealings with TCI's 200
> 4-R.  So I cannot comment.  Did you call TCI?  I'd start there.

My experience with H/O (makes it Olds related <G>) trannys is limited
only to Ford, and I don't know if TCI made one for the Ford, or a TH200
was adapted to fit, but a freind of mine has one in his 81 Capri for
racing, and it's a pretty good tranny, but I think I can still get the
performance outta a GM TH200, and drive it home too.  Then again, I am
not allowed to drive his race car on the track, he won't let me.  Would
be nice..  He turns High 8's in the 1/8 on a semi stock 302, he says
it's definitely firm, and quick. The motor's just got a mild cam, and
open breather; last season.....
- -- 
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
- - Here we go Steelers!!!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 19:57:46 +0000
From: duane morris <morris1@midusa.net>
Subject: toronados

Hi,
	I'm interested in posting a note about finding someone who has taken a
Toro drivetrain and installed it in another vehicle....such as a full
size Chevy Pickup.  I'm interested in trying this and would appreciate
any info that anyone could come up with about this project.

	Thanks.

Duane Morris
902 N Rothsay
Minneapolis, KS 67467
785-392-3448
morris1@midusa.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 21:25:06 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Ultimate parts car

Finally got the url for the ultimate parts car... check it out, find a part:

http://www.442.com/rocketsci.html

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 21:21:30 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: A little non-olds stuff

> - Jerry Christopher
> - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
> - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
> - Here we go Steelers!!!

Steelers?  Oh, yeah, they're going to the SuperBowl....if they can still
get tickets......hee hee

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 21:33:15 EST
From: DKlauber <DKlauber@aol.com>
Subject: New Guy with some ?'s on 71 442

I just bought my first Oldsmobile.  A 71 442 conv that looks exactly like the
one on the cover of the Brothers catalog.  So far I am loving the car, and my
wife is putting up with me and it pretty well.   It has 55K miles on it and
looks the part.  I use it as a weekend driver and enjoy running up to the
Pavilions in Scottsdale on Sat. night to show it and to mingle with the other
people.  

My questions are:  1.  the car is viking blue with a parchment/pearl interior.
The seat backs and the head rest are white.  Is this possible from the
factory?  I do know that the interior has been redone.  The Cars & Parts ID #
book shows only a white trim for 71, but Brothers shows the parchment/pearl.  
2.  I noticed that when I drive back from the show at night the lights tend to
fade and brighten as I drive.  All lights from the head lights to the dash
lights are doing this.  Any idea what would cause this?  Any help would be
appreciated. 
 
442's may run in the blood...my dad had a 67 442 for several years, until he
sold it to a neighbor high school kid.  I remember reading the police blotter
in the local Boulder paper one morning and reading about my neighbor getting
in a 100+mph car chase through the streets...and that was the last I ever saw
of that 442.  P.S. he did get away... only that they later found the car and
then searched the area and found him trying to hide in some bushes.  

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 21:47:54 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: wtd: '53 1/4's...

Anybody can help this guy?

Forwarded message:
> From Vj374@aol.com Fri Jan  9 23:01:42 1998
> Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 22:55:01 EST
>
> Looking for 53 Globemaster rear QTRS.  Had a hightop hardtop, but kept the
> lowtop coupe & need some small parts.    (relaying message for f in-law)
>                      thanks   Jake
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 19:21:33 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Ultimate parts car

Chris Brown Witt wrote:
> 
> Finally got the url for the ultimate parts car... check it out, find a part:

Oh my God!  That is scary. :-)

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 22:44:10 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: #7 heads, on 403?

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 19:54:03 EST
From: Mikey tvb <Mikeytvb@aol.com>
Subject: head prices???

i was talking to a guy who has a set of #7 heads.  they have valves, and
springs on them.  they came off a 71 350.  he told me that he would sell them
for about a buck and a half($150).
 would these do a 403 any good? also, does a lead addative do anything more
than just harden the valve seats?
   mikey tvb@aol.com
...
From: "Samuel E. Johnson, Jr" <cutlass403@ameritech.net>
I think that the # 7 heads will make the compression ratio on the 403 go down.
================
That's not a bad price, IF all the guides, &c are in good shape. Headwork can
eat up a LOT of $ on stuff that you can't do yourself. Then again, if you have
the facilities to replace guides & such, you are all set.
  For 403 use, you might consider installing the larger valves from the 403
heads. Note, please, that the 7's valves are about 0.050" longer than most
other valves, like the 403's, so unless you also install the 403's xst valves,
your stem heights will mismatch a bit- should be accounted for in lifter
plunger action, or an adjustable valvetrain ($400?) would do it. The larger
valves being a bit shorter might make the spring installed height too short
unless you cut the seats a bit deeper. 'Course, if your 7's have rotators on
the intakes, you could just swap to regular retainers and shim the bottom about
0.150" [yech].
    Now, the 1972 "7a" heads have slightly larger xst valves already...

Oh, and there is NO head that will lower the 403's CRatio- all other heads have
smaller chambers. Lead does not "harden" the valve seats- it acts as a
lubricant or sacrificial metal as the hot valve pounds the seat. The seat does
not get any harder.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 22:46:30 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: wtd: H hds, 71 w-parts

Chance to unload your bothersome '71 W-parts, folks!

Forwarded message:
> From: "Ulysses Melen" <Master-Stile@worldnet.att.net>
> To: <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
> Subject: Parts for Resto. 71 442
>
> Looking for parts to put together my car:
>
> - 71 442 W-30 "H" type heads

- --rotsa ruck-- cbw

> - Red Inner Fender Wells (71)
> - Rear Bumper w/cutouts (71)
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 22:54:29 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Ultimate parts car

Chris Brown Witt wrote:
> 
> Finally got the url for the ultimate parts car... check it out, find a 

Looks like a coffee table in progress to me.  Don't laugh but I've
thought about trying to redo one or two that wasn't much better than
this.  Wonder why they left the front wheels on.  BIG :)
Later Chris....

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 23:17:00 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: SSII - SSIII (Help)

Is there a DEFINITE way to decipher a SSII between an SSIII rim?  With
the tire still on?

Jason Adcock's 84 Cutlass rides on the rims I am looking for....  What
kind are they?  Are they the SSIII, or Something else?????

I ask only cause you see 80's Cutlasses with the rims like those on the
70s Cutlass, and then they have a newer style with more chrome..... 
I've seen both ways, and without REAL backround info, I'd say they were
both original....   
- -- 
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
- - Here we go Steelers!!!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 19:44:47 -0500
From: controlz <controlz@bellatlantic.net>
Subject: 455 head gasket replacement

Hi I've got a 1969 sport coupe 442 (the one with the vinly top) and 
i'ive also got a 1972 455 in her.
	My problem is this while street racing I over reved and blew
both head gaskets. I have some mechanical skill but lack experience
I plan on getting the miloden copper head gaskets, but I have a few 
questions.

	(1) What other gaskets will I need (head gaskets, vavle cover, 
intake manifold, vallypan , anyothers ?????)

	(2) I know I must drain the coolant but should I drain the oil 
as well before putting the gaskets in ?

	(3) when removing the head do I have to loosen or remove the 
rocker to releive pressure on the push rods or do I just un bolt the 
head.

	(4) When I put the head back into place do I have to adjust the 
rocker arms at all... (this is my biggest question )..

Thanks in advance..

- -Bob @  controlz@bellatlantic.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 23:28:39 EST
From: James244 <James244@aol.com>
Subject: subscribe....to list

I would like to subscribe to the list, and unsubscribe to the digest.

thanks
james244

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 23:29:30 EST
From: James244 <James244@aol.com>
Subject: unsubscribe....digest

thanks

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 23:33:00 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Help evaluate 68 442?

Anyone feel like helping this guy feel good about dumping his Chevelle in favor
of the wild 442 he describes?

I told him it's probably worth the $5000. Doubted the "11:1" compression story,
wondered about the "solid lifters", advised him to look closely at body tag
body style digits matching the VIN digits 2 thru 5, 442 numerals shape &
position on fenders, ck for cracked headlight plastics, etc.
- -cbw-

> From TLaferriere@worldnet.att.net Sun Jan 11 19:21:42 1998
> From: "Mr Packard" <TLaferriere@worldnet.att.net>
> To: <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
> Subject: 68 442
>
> Hi Chris,  Asking a question of what a car is worth is always tough, but I
> will give it a shot.  I am about to take a 1968 442 in trade for my 1967
> Chevelle Convertible (under going full restoration).  He claims the car is
> worth $5000.  Here's a little detail on the car.  It is 442  (VIN and BODY
> TAG confirm), it has a 455, which I know is not original (#396021F)  It is
> rebuilt with 11:1 compression, solid cam/lifters etc.  4-speed car
> (Original).  The car is quite fast, but thats not high on my list.
> Mechanically, it seems nice.  Everything works.  The paint and body are
> very nice, but the wrong color. No floor or truck rot.  Rust was repaired
> on lower quarters, doors and fenders prior to the paint job.  The interior
> needs seat covers, carpet and door panels to be nice.  The car rides very
> nice and seems very tight and is clean everywhere.   Its has 4:56 gears (I
> dont like that).  It has newer style Cutlass rims.     Do you think I could
> sell this car for $5000?    Any comments would be greatly appreciated, as I
> am not familiar with the OLDS 442.  I am a bodyman by trade and have been
> in this hobby for 12 years.  I also own a 1939 Packard Coupe
> Thanks,
> Tom
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 23:34:19 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: SSII - SSIII (Help)

Jerry Christopher wrote:
> 
> Is there a DEFINITE way to decipher a SSII between an SSIII rim?  With
> the tire still on?
> 
Generally speaking, the SSIII was the chrome wheel.  SSII's were painted
lower body color.  This is only for the 80's style.  Back in the 70's,
the SSII was argent, with SSIII being painted lower body color.

Hope this helps.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 00:39:14 -0700
From: Boogah <Boogah@en.com>
Subject: W31

Anyone out there know all of the differences between a W31 and standard
350 engine?  I know the heads and harmonic balancer are different, and
would assume the pistons are different, but are there any other major
differences between the two? What else would there be?  Just curious as
the topic came up over the holidays.

Also, I found out an interesting fact regarding my 72 Cutlass Supreme. 
I was examining the original sticker and noticed that there was an extra
charge for "Special Paint Solid Color" for $113.00.  After doing some
research I found out that the color of my car (Ebony Black) was not
regularly available for the Cutlass model. It was available on the Toro
and a few others but not Cutlass. Don't know if anyone cares, but that
is probably why you dont see many black Cutlass's around.  Just thought
it was interesting. It is kinda cool to do research and find out about
the little known facts about the different models....    Oh well enough
of this. Have a good evening


Joe
1972 Cutlass Supreme
62112 miles
350 2V  (L32) $33.00 credit
Ebony Black (19)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 23:51:54 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: bb vs. sb frame

Subject: A-body frames
Rocket folks,
        O.K. jeopardy fans, for 200, does anyone know the difference in the
big block and small block 67' A-body ragtop frames. More specific, the
TH400 equipped GTO's 442's and such.
==================

Uh, What is "none"?

I believe... x-member bolts to different holes in the frame probably.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 23:53:01 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: HB repair sleeve does WHAT?

If you can't see the saw cut, it might mean that the balancer
has to be replaced, or a repair sleeve installed.
================
How does a repair sleeve move the timing mark w.r.t. the crank position?

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 00:02:34 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: heads to use

From: JMoakBOTH <JMoakBOTH@aol.com>
Subject: 455 HEADS
I am rebuilding my 455 for 71 cutlass convertible and I need a set of heads.
I would appreciate some suggestions as to what casting number 100, 686, 021 or
458 would be best for performance.  Also looking to buy.  I am located in
north Florida and would perfer something on this side of the world.
Thanks   Johnny
Jmoakboth@aol.com
================
first off, Johnny, using the casting # last 3 digits is kind of a Chevy thing.
I suppose ot works OK, on '68-up heads, after you scrape the gunk off... but we
Olds fans have the Great Advantage of having a HUGE 3/4" tall letter [or,
number, for small blocks] cast into the lower left corner of the head.

For instance:
100 => full casting # 409100, Letter ID G or Ga, 1971 or '72 respectively.
686 => 403686 = E casting, 1970 only.
021 => no known Olds head. Now, 821 might be 383821, an "A" head, 1965.
458 => again, must be a typo, the 394548 "C" head, '67 thru '69, widely
regarded to be the greatest head of all time. Well, the best commonly available
Olds head, anyhow.

I actually had to go look up these numbers, I am so used to using the letter
ID...

So, get the "548's" if that's the lingo you thrive on. Unless the others have
the elusive 2.072" intake valves, then use them instead.
  Or, better yet, use the big valves in the C heads...
 --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 00:02:17 -0500
From: "Jason K. Adcock" <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: SSII - SSIII (Help)

Jerry Christopher wrote:
>
> Jason Adcock's 84 Cutlass rides on the rims I am looking for....  What
> kind are they?  Are they the SSIII, or Something else?????

They're 'Chrome Super Stock III Wheels', as per the 1984 Cutlass Ciera,
Supreme and Calais showroom catalog.  Basically, the chrome versions have
the plastic (?) trim ring deleted and the whole wheel is plated with
chrome.  I believe the center caps are the same.  I couldn't tell you about
offset and all those dimensions, only that the chrome versions are 14x6. 
I've seen 14x7 body color SSIII rims, but only once and they were pretty
rusted out.

> I ask only cause you see 80's Cutlasses with the rims like those on the
> 70s Cutlass, and then they have a newer style with more chrome.....
> I've seen both ways, and without REAL backround info, I'd say they were
> both original....

The 80's Cutlasses came both ways, with body color (regular) SSIII's and
chrome SSIII's.  Actually, I've seen more chrome wheels on the G-Bodys than
I have the body color SSIII's.
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 00:05:00 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: main seal replacement

Do you mean on the 307's? Whatever the case, there's a technique for
removing an upper rope-type seal with the crank in place; never had the
pleasure of trying it, though.  Bob Barry
==============
Yeah, it's called "use the rubber replacement seal." Why in the world would
anyone dork around with that half-assed rope seal arrangement when all you need
do is obtain the correct size rubber part?
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 00:09:22 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: front bolt

     Torque spec on that balancer bolt is 160 ft-lbs (oiled).  Have fun.
     (My torque wrench only goes to 150, so that's what my balancer bolt is
     torqued to...)
==================
tork spec on that bolt is 160 *minimum*... Have at it, don't think you'll be
breaking off a 3/4" fine thread bolt.

As for the loosening, you need to hold the crank still. I vote for the "old
pulley made into long handle" trick. I see another product for RS to offer
here... I usually use J-1810 or whatever the number is that's used for holding
diff. yoke still also... I have been known to thread two long abusable bolts
into adjacent pulley holes, and pry against them... or clamp vice-grips to the
flexplate if the trans cover's off anyhow...
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 00:36:33 EST
From: Markintime <Markintime@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 455 head gasket replacement

Hi Bob,

I'm not sure the copper head gaskets are such a good choice in this case. If
it was me I'd go with a good permatorque head gasket instead.  Having said
that, here's the rest of it.

1. You'll need intake manifold gaskets with end seals.  Some people throw the
end seals away and use high temp gasket maker instead. The claim is that the
sealer stays in place and standard end seals slip out.  I'm not so sure about
that.  With good intake gasket sets the end seals are rubber and with a little
gasgacinch to tack them down they should stay in place from now on.

2. I would advise loosening the rocker bolts prior to loosening the head
bolts.
Remove the pushrods in order and mark them so they go back in the engine
exactly as they came out.  Prior to reinstalling them in the engine, clean
them and roll them on a flat surface to see if they're bent, if so replace
them.

3. Replace the valve cover gaskets, nows the best time to do it.

4. While the heads are off the engine inspect them closely.  While they're off
the engine you may want to do a valve job, there's no better time.

5. Finally valve adjustment, if you're running stock Old's rockers the
adjustment is a no brainer because there is no adjustment on those rockers.
The valve train geometry is set by the factory tolerances of the engine.
Providing the engine is to spec, the lifters will have the appropriate preload
when reassembled.  This is another reason I discourage using copper head
gaskets, try to stay as close to factory thickness as possible.

6. After the engine is back together and has been run for 30 to 60 minutes,
retorque the heads.

Hope you find the info helpful.

Mark Berube
Loganville, GA.
67' 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 19:43:04 +0900
From: James Zito <jimzito@uriel.net>
Subject: Wanted: 69' 442 Cruise Control Transducer

Hi folks,

I'm working on restoring my 69 442 convertible and either need to find a
transducer or get some advice on how to repair the one that's already on
the car.
After having no CC for many years, due to no speedo cables running
through the transducer I finally replaced them.   Unfortunatly I still
don't have CC.
Anybody with ideas on what the problem is, or with a good transducer
please respond.

Thanks
Jim

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 05:15:07 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Info request

Hi all,

I was pulling off the passenger side door panel from my 68 SC and out
popped this huge spring (4-5" long) (Keep it clean boys! ;-)  What 
purpose does it have in the door?  The driver's side didn't even have
one.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 08:29:40 -0500
From: "Mike Coccagna" <mike.coccagna@envirosense.com>
Subject: Re: Garage Queen problem - 93 SCX

Thanks for all of the ideas on where to persue the non-start problem with my
SCX.  I first removed the clutch switch and jumpered the connectors, tried
to start the car, and failed.  I then re-jumpered the switch, opened the
hood, and wiggled the wires on the starter (hard to see it under the intake
manifold and its assoc. plumbing).  When I turned the key, it fired right
up.  Not sure if it was the switch or the wiring, so this spring when it
gets a little nicer outside I'll remove the starter wiring and clean all of
the connectors.  I have a feeling there is a bit of oxidation there too.

Thanks again for the help.

Mike
'91 W40+ 442
'93 W41 SCX

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 09:13:36 -0500
From: Doug and Carolyn <cale@erols.com>
Subject: duel gate installation

im installing a 71 duel gate shifter in a 70 cutlass supreme with the
original 350 turbo trans, and console shifter. i can install the console
without any difficulty. here are my questions ?

1. has any one used a stock 70 neutral safety switch with 71 duel gate ?

2. there are no holes in the floor to bolt the front of the shifter the 
rear hols line up. is there a template availble so i can drill the
needed holes ?

3. i have nos duel gate cable, were does it attach to shifter ?

4. second gear on this shifter in duel gate mode can be bypassed if 
shifted hard is this a problem or do you just click into the next gear ?
maybe im shifting it to hard. "i have shifter set up on bench"

5. should i send the shifter back to hurst to have it rebuilt ? i have
the address.

any feedback willbe a big help.

Doug Bennitt sterling va 703-406-2426

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 08:22:25 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Re: Show Books

Basically here's what I need to get rolling:

Year, model & color of your car (a pic would be great), as many specs,
options, stories, information (production numbers etc), restoration photos
(yes you'll get them back!), and any specific item you want included, this
is your book, personalize it!

What I'll do is design insert pages for the front, spine & back, in colors
to match your car (as close as I can), to put into a 3-ring sleeved binder.

Then if you want to start with a story about you car, I'll take your story
about how you got your car and all the trials & tribulations of the
restoration process...everybody has funny stories about stupid mistakes
they learned from or good deals they found. I'll write it up in a magazine
style story with a customized photo layout incorporated into it.

From there we just build the book however you want to, sleeve pages for
original documentation, pages with business card pockets for biz cards you
pick up at swap meets, photo album pages (with typeset captions for each
page), sleeve pages for reciepts or whatever else we can think of.

A racer buddy of mine suggeted including time slips from track runs with
photos of your car "in action", or judges sheets & pictures (& maybe ticket
stubs) of your car at a show

My books even have sections for any magazine articles I find useful, cool
ideas for detailing & even checklists for restoration, so I don't forget
anything!

I use my book just about every day, I'm just about ready to start volume 2!

Another thing I came up with is a color info sheet typeset & framed (up to
11x14) to display in front of your car on an easel at a show, or I've seen
them hanging from chains or cord from the top of the open hood. This too
can be customized with a photo scanned in or a color logo or whatever!

Obviously prices may vary a little if you want something really outrageous!

E-mail to details at scott.wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com  or call me at home
at 972-303-0492 to discuss.

Thganx!

Scott Wheeler
68 442




Bowtie911@aol.com on 01/09/98 04:42:38 PM

Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

To:   oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
cc:    (bcc: Scott Wheeler/PrePress/PBI)
Subject:  Re: Show Books




Scott, I would be interested also
bowtie911@aol.com
65 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 21:19:47 -0500
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: New Motor Problems

Ok, I've *FINALLY* got the new motor in my '71 CS....   now
its got some problems.  Here's the details on the motor:

   '70 350 stock bottom end (no mods)
   TRW L2412F pistons (very shallow dish)
   #7 heads, exhaust ported & big valves installed
   Mondello springs & retainers 
   Crane pushrods & steel roller rockers
   Mondello JM18-20 cam
   Summit racing house-brand lifters
   HEI ignition (ran fine in the old motor)
   Edelbrock 3711 Performer intake

   Oil pressure is good; about 35 psi at hot "idle".

The problems:

1.   Poor idle.   Idles roughly, almost dies when dropped in gear.
	In-gear idle drops to about 800 rpm and idles like a bad
	vacuum leak.   About 12-13" vacuum at 1000 rpm idle.

2.   Lifter noise that won't go away - I've tried lash settings from 1/4
	turn down to 3/4 turn down and it's still there.   Not on all 
	cylinders, but I can't really narrow it down to just one.


Questions/notes:

   I've never run a JM18-20.  What kind of idle/vacuum should I get?  
The idle/vacuum numbers don't seem to be right for this size of cam - 
I was expecting a slow idle with slight lope.   Cam is installed straight
up (but not degree'd) with a Crane roller timing set.    

   I've checked the HEI - the weights are free, vacuum can is good.   
Even tried a different coil.  No change.

   My next move will be to swap the old cast-iron intake back on since 
I've never run this intake on a motor before and it was a used intake.
I did put a small bead of RVT around each port, but there's nothing to
say it doesn't have a internal leak.

HELP!


  

- --> Bob Valentine
- --> ravalent@liii.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 21:38:37 -0500
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: HB repair sleeve does WHAT?

At 11:53 PM 1/11/98 -0500, you wrote:
>If you can't see the saw cut, it might mean that the balancer
>has to be replaced, or a repair sleeve installed.
>================
>How does a repair sleeve move the timing mark w.r.t. the crank position?

  I agree with Chris - but this brings up another question:  how far should 
the timing mark be from the keyway (in degrees)?


- --> Bob Valentine
- --> ravalent@liii.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 09:08:52 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Re: NEW CUTLASS BODY STYLE

The company I work for just did a promo peice for the new Cougar...looks
like a Toyota Celica!




plh@nbn.net on 01/10/98 01:57:05 PM

Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

To:   oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
cc:    (bcc: Scott Wheeler/PrePress/PBI)
Subject:  Re: NEW CUTLASS BODY STYLE




M. Slocum wrote:
> On a different note, what is this with 4 doors? Can't somebody(besides
above
> mentioned) come out with a unique, affordable, sporty two door?
Yeah, they're gonna call it Mercury Cougar...
Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 09:12:45 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: Re: Some more mechanical questions.

>> You mean that it's dead on all speeds? See if the connector 
>> to the motor itself is loose.

...and the ground wire, too. The blower doesn't ground through
its mounting; it requires a separate fat black ground wire.

>> You could also jumper a heavy-gauge wire directly to the
>> blower motor to see if it runs.

Yes. Also hook up a test light and see if you have any voltage
present at the power lead. Is it getting any juice?

>> I doubt it's the switches, since there are two entirely 
>> separate circuits for the blower motor; one for the three
>> lower speeds, and a separate one for the HI speed.

Hear, hear.

> Yup.. The blower motor is dead on all speeds and on all settings.
> I think it might be the relay because in early June I had 
> GOODWRENCH SERVICE replace the entire air conditioning system 
> because all the hoses leaked. I'll take it in to them and have 
> them deal with it.

I think you can diagnose this one, at least partway, before letting
those gorillas get at it again. The relay is only relevant for the
high speed; the lower speeds don't use it.

1) Check for power being delivered at the fat (purple?) lead where
it plugs onto the motor.

2) Check that the ground wire is actually grounded.

If both check out all right, replace the blower motor.
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 09:25:46 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: Re: High Heater problems

> I have a 71 cutlass supreme and I am desperately searching for my 
> high heater switch fuse and I cannot find it.  I know it is on the 
> firewall. I do not know what side (engine or Passenger) and I do 
> not know where (middle, driver side or passenger side).  I also 
> cannot find the relay I have heard about from other people. 
> Anyones help will be greatly appreciated.

I don't know of a high-speed fuse, but the relay is usually mounted
on a bracket hung off the A/C evaporator housing near the right-side
(passenger's side) hood hinge on the firewall. It'll probably have
four wires attached to its underside, two small-gauge (maybe 14 ga.)
wires and two fat 10-gauge, at least one of which is probably red.
They're arranged in a rectangular connector with the two fat ones at 
opposite ends, the two smaller ones paired off in the middle. (Or
maybe the other way around... :-)

Easiest way to test it is to see if it clicks. With the ignition on
but the engine not running, set the dash heater control to HEAT or
VENT, and see if you hear a *click* under the hood when you move the
fan speed in and out of the HIGH position. It won't click for any
speed other than HIGH. If you're not sure, have an assistant move the
fan switch while you rest a fingertip on top of the relay.

High speed usually doesn't go away because of a bad relay; it fails
because the massive current flow partially melts an in-line connector
for the 10-gauge wire coming to the relay from the engine harness.
Follow the 10-gauge wire back from the relay towards the engine and
you'll probably find an in-line connector of maybe two or three wires
with the 10-gauge on one side. Ease it apart and check for melting.
If found, bypass the 10-gauge around this connector and put in new
10-gauge connectors to fix this circuit, and you should get your high
speed back again.

I've had to do this fix on a variety of years of GM cars. Often the
circuit is still intact and despite the melted connector you can
measure 12 volts on the 10-gauge wire in testing, but there's nowhere 
near the amperage needed to operate the blower on HIGH. Good luck...
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 08:33:53
From: <terrywiles@usa.net>
Subject: Ram Air, still trying



I am still working on building a Ram-Air system for my cutlass and am

having some problems with the intake ducts. The problem is that there is pretty

much no room for them. I already have the air cleaner assy. I also have the

aluminum hose that will will be routed through two holes cut in front of the

inner fender skirts. (the same place as the factory did on the '70 442 W-30 I think?) The

problem is that as far as I can tell the W-30 machine had a modified bracket to

hold the bottom of the bumper. In mine, there is no room for any type of intake

scoop. You will have to take my word for it, that my brackets are in the way,

and I don't want to mess with them (as far as making my own, they are 3/4" dia.

solid bars, flat on one end) I have come up with a couple of scoop designs to

clear the brackets, but to make them efficient, they are completely visable. I

don't want them to look out of place. I realize that the ram air helps by

feeding cooler, ouside air. BUT, is it important that it be "forced" in? I have

a few ideas for a scoop that would scavange some air from under the bumper, but

would not be a direct flow into the ducts. 



Any ideas? And NO, I am not interested in taking out my high beam lights!!!
____________________________________________________________________
Get free e-mail and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 10:01:09 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: 68 Mirror prob!

DITTO!!! My allen heads are stripped out & the mirror is hangin! Need more
input!!!

>How about for 68 442s?  Is there a two outside mirror setup combination
>that can work?
>BTW, I tried to get the mirror off of my 68 yesterday and was unable to
>unscrew the bolt off with an allen wrench.  If I have to drill these
>pups out, can I get replacement bolts?

Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 08:06:52 PST
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: W31

The W-31 uses a different camshaft(68-70), valves and valve 
springs(68-70), pistons(68-70), carb(68-70), harmonic balancer(69-70)*I 
REALLY NEED one of these by the way*,
and the 1970 used and aluminum intake manifold.

As far as I know, the rest of the engine is the same as a 350-4bbl. The 
engines were supposed to be hand assembled and have internals that were 
more scrutinized then the standard engines.

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S 



>Anyone out there know all of the differences between a W31 and standard
>350 engine?  I know the heads and harmonic balancer are different, and
>would assume the pistons are different, but are there any other major
>differences between the two? What else would there be?  Just curious as
>the topic came up over the holidays.


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 11:55:47 EST
From: Wrencher43 <Wrencher43@aol.com>
Subject: Re: New Motor Problems

Since you dont say what type carb your using and not havin much info to go on
i would say you have a valve thats too tight.
low engine vacuum is usually from plugged exhaust or tight valves.

Wrencher43@aol.com
Mike M.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 11:59:40 EST
From: Jon 442 <Jon442@aol.com>
Subject: Stolen '83 H/O

This information was sent to me by fax. Please DO NOT respond to me, but
respond to the person named below.

Stolen 1983 Hurst/Olds

Black/silver with maroon interior
Chrome aftermarket wheels
Sunroof
Black tinted windows

VIN: 1G3AK479XDM453129

Stolen from Parsippany, NJ, on 12/5/97. Was bearing NJ license EZ961F when
stolen.

If you have information on this vehicle, please contact the owner:

Victor A. Bacille III
973-267-6562
973-285-5600

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 10:03:21 -0700
From: Tom Starkey <tstarkey@uswest.net>
Subject: TH350 Swap

Hello All!


This week is going to be the big endeavor of switching transmissions in
my 68 Cutlass. I going to replace the 2 speed with the TH350. However, I
need some input.

1.) Carryout price for the TH350 (w/converter) is $450, installed price
is $750. I'm debating weather to let them do it or do it myself. If I do
it, I have to borrow a garage and rent the jack and jack stands.

2.) The shop that wants to do this says I'll need the kickdown cable (as
mentioned in the FAQ), filler tube and dust cover. If I call junk yards
for this, is there a specific set of cars I should refer to for these
parts?

3.) The FAQ say's this is about a weekend job, if I borrow a garage I'll
have to make sure the car is out by Sunday night. Considering the
"gotcha's" that could pop up, how reasonable do you think this is?

My heart wants me to do this swap but my said says let them do it. I
would really appreciate any comments or thoughts.

Thanks!
Tom Starkey - '68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 11:23:45 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Re: TH350 Swap

Tom,

I recently pulled my TH 400 out of my 68 442 and was surprised how easy it
really was! The biggest hurdle I had was getting the car high enough to
roll the trans out!

Plan on replacing the rear mount if you hadn't already planned to in the
swap...I would imagen the 2 speed mount is different from the TH350. My
local Trans shop rebuilt mine with a shift kit and a new converter for $375
cash & carry.

>This week is going to be the big endeavor of switching transmissions in
>my 68 Cutlass. I going to replace the 2 speed with the TH350. However, I
>need some input.

Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 98 12:20:09 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: Rear Side Markers

At 19:08 1/11/98 -0400, you wrote:
>
>To further add to the confusion: I have a pair of side markers that I was 
>told came from a '69, but they do not match the numbers quoted here earlier:
>
>The housing has "Guide 35 P168" stamped on the back.
>
>The lens has "SAE P168" and "Guide 39" embossed on opposite sides, and a 
>part # of 5960481 in the center. 
>
>The chrome outer bezel has a casting # of 400841 on the backside.
>
>Anyone know what these are from? Full-size maybe, or Toro?
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>
>
    Greg,  I had originally posted the question about the difference if any
between the '68 rear marker and the '69.  My '69 4-4-2 was missing the
markers and so I purchased a pair from Dan on the list here.

    This housing has "G33  SAE  P1  68" stamped on the back.

    The front of the lense has "SAE P1 68" on the right side of the rocket
         and "GUIDE 33" on the left side of the rocket and in the center is
a          part # 5960234  3  on one of them and # 5960234  2 on the other.

    One of the chrome outer bezel has two numbers in the casting. The one
near the  center of the backside of the rocket is "403903" and
towards the bottom of the rocket is a "49401" on one of them the
other just has the one number near the center which is "403903". 

    Just a little more confusion fodder.


    Glenn
    '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 13:14:45 EST
From: CRuper1 <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: main seal replacement

In a message dated 98-01-12 00:21:03 EST, you write:

<< 
 Do you mean on the 307's? Whatever the case, there's a technique for
 removing an upper rope-type seal with the crank in place; never had the
 pleasure of trying it, though.  Bob Barry
 ==============
 Yeah, it's called "use the rubber replacement seal." Why in the world would
 anyone dork around with that half-assed rope seal arrangement when all you
need
 do is obtain the correct size rubber part?
 --
 Chris  B. Witt  >>

Or better yet, just find a dealer who sells "Victor" gaskets, and ask them for
the rubber rear main seals (I know they have them for the 350's, and I'd bet
they have them for the 455), these are stock, and labeled "Olds", no more
using "Ford" parts on our engines... :-).

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 98 13:11:17 -0500
From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Subject: Olds Centennial Club Mtg 1/13 (Maryland)

To All Who Live In The Land Of Pleasant Living (Maryland):
- ----------------------------------------------------------
Announcing the next meeting of the
Oldsmobile Centennial Club, Chapter of the Oldsmobile Club of America

Date: Tuesday January 13, 1998
Time: 7:00pm
Location: Ernie Swanson Oldsmobile, 410 N. Craine Hwy, Glen Burnie, MD

Come on out and look us over if you're looking for an Oldsmobile club in 
Maryland.  Starting planning of our show in May, and other stuff. Any questions,
drop me a line at the e-mail addresses below (Web site needs updating). Later.

 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson (OCA's WebGuy)
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America #18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - Newest Chapter of OCA
(W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov   (H) brad442@erols.com
Personal Web Page - http://www.erols/com/brad442
OCC Web Page - http://www.erols.com/brad442/occ
OCA Web Page - http://www.erols.com/brad442/oca

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 13:20:32 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Ram Air in the Rain/68 W30 Carb

When I get my car back from the shop (by the way I settled with the insurance
co at $3500) and the guy, supposedly the best around here, says he thinks he
can use my existing quarter which would be good.  and since they're painting
the rear end of my car, i'm having the whole thing re-painted (paint job is a
couple decades old probably).  Anyway, when I get it back from the shop I'm
planning on adding the ram air scoops as I already have the aftermarket ram
air cleaner assembly that came with the car (and the scoops which I traded
years ago).  AND, I was wondering what happens to the air cleaner when you
drive in the rain, and how often do the air cleaners need to be replaced with
those scoops right over the dusty ground.

And, as I need to fix my carb, I'm wondering if I should purchase a 68 w-30
carb that I found for sale that needs rebuilding, and use the new parts off of
mine, since the carb should already be set up to use ram-air.  does this make
sense?

thanks,
aaron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 13:56:00 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted: 69' 442 Cruise Control Transducer

I have cruise control on my 69 442 conv as well, and I've never known how to
hook it up.  It appears to have been disconnected decades ago (i've had it
over 12 years), but it has speedo cables.  how does this thing work, i'm
clueless!

aaron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 13:55:58 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Air shocks

There's a large air compressor mounted on the front ride side of the car where
the battery would be if it were on the passenger side.  I've always wondered
if this was original equipment/air shocks, or aftermarket.

aaron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 13:14:46 -0600
From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Subject: Re: 68 Mirror prob!

put a block of wood in front of the mirror (at the base) and tap it with a
hammer.  Make sure you are pushing the mirror towards the back of the car.

- -Dan

Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com wrote:

> DITTO!!! My allen heads are stripped out & the mirror is hangin! Need more
> input!!!
>
> >How about for 68 442s?  Is there a two outside mirror setup combination
> >that can work?
> >BTW, I tried to get the mirror off of my 68 yesterday and was unable to
> >unscrew the bolt off with an allen wrench.  If I have to drill these
> >pups out, can I get replacement bolts?
>
> Scott Wheeler
> 68 442 Conv
> Dallas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 14:23:12 -0500
From: Scott Barielle <barielle@NewInfo.com>
Subject: RE: High Heater problems

I have a different problem which is related on my '68 Delmont 88. The
blower fan stuck on high one night, and continued blowing with the
ignition off. I found that disconnecting the bottom-most lead going into
the blower (top right of firewall, across from glove box) turns off the
blower. When I plug the lead back in, it is stuck on high regardless of
what I do with the hi-lo switch on the dash panel, A/C or vent or heat.
There is an aluminum multiwire lead on the drivers' side of the firewall
with some melting evident. Can anyone give me some direction?

Scott Barielle
1968 Delmont 88 B07 Apprehender L-32
1970 442 (mustangivore)
barielle@newinfo.com

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1053
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