
oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, January 20 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1065



Lower Rad Hose Position
Re: Plugging my EGR valve?
Re: Mondello
carb part
442 Key Blank
UNBOUNCE: Project 455/4WD
Re: Lower Rad Hose Position
Re[2]: Blinking head lights
Re:Soylent Ocean Mist's strong resistance...
Re:Independent Wipers
Re:Recently rebuilt engine problems
Re: Lower Rad Hose Position
Re: Tach
Re: 442 Key Blank
RE: carb part
Re: Lower Rad Hose Position
Olds 330
Re: 455 Oiling information needed
1975 Delta 88 Royale
Re: Plugging my EGR valve?
Re: Mondello
Re: 442 Key Blank
Re: UNBOUNCE: Project 455/4WD
Re: Lower Rad Hose Position
Re: Hood question
Re: Tach
Re: Olds 330
Bryceman's page
Re: Lower Rad Hose Position
Re: FYI:69 Cutlass bumper-to-lower radiator "filler"
Re: FYI:69 Cutlass bumper-to-lower radiator "filler"
Fw: 1972 Cutlass Conv. For Sale
FS: 69 H/O mirror gaskets
Re: Hood question
Re: Olds 330
Re: Bryceman's page
brycemans page
Long Island List Members - help a 442
Re: BB combustion chambers
Re: brycemans page
Re: Bryceman's page
Re: 1975 Delta 88 Royale
Re: 442 Key Blank
Re: 68/69 trunk opening, roadtrip etc?
Under hood color
Re: To: ADMIN and listmembers, I have a solution!
Re: Project 455/4WD
Re: Bryceman's page
Re: Olds 330
Re: Under hood color
Re: To: ADMIN and listmembers, I have a solution!
Re: To: ADMIN and listmembers, I have a solution!
71 Body Alignment
Re: Under hood color
Re: Lower Rad Hose Position
FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 22:32:14 -0500
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Lower Rad Hose Position

I noticed that on my '69 Cutlass "S" 350 the lower rad hose pushes slightly
against the exposed threads on the end of idler arm bolt.  I have seen
other cars in shows and most of them do the same.  It seems to me that this
might be a source of wear and eventual failure.  Has anyone had problems
with this or found a solution?


Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 01:48:06 EST
From: BIG JERMES <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Plugging my EGR valve?

In a message dated 98-01-19 13:00:13 EST, you write:

<< You can either replace your current carb with a pre-EGR carb, or
 jet your current carb like a pre-EGR carb, and then perhaps go a bit richer
 to compensate for the increased air flow from the open-element air cleaner.
>>

well now, i am running a '80 quadrajet on my '72 350 with an open element and
no egr.  so im thinking maybe i can get some jets out of an older carb?  is it
possible to just swap them out?  if i can, it will be done!  i have had a
little taste of detonation every now and then and its very annoying.  now that
i put on headers, i cant tell the difference between the exhaust and pinging.
so im always a little uptight as to whether or not its detonating.  that knock
sensor msd makes looks pretty sweet, so i might give it a try too. 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 01:54:56 EST
From: Markintime <Markintime@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Mondello

Hi Sam,
I bought Joe's Tech Manual about a year ago.  I think it's a good investment.
Joe's got alot of info in the manual about performance tweaks for the OLD's
and
his insights on head work and OLD's engine building for performance.
He also discusses cams, carbs, torque converters, etc.etc.
I think it's money well spent.

Mark Berube
Loganville, GA
67' 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 01:56:00 EST
From: OLDZ69442 <OLDZ69442@aol.com>
Subject: carb part

List,
   I'm in need of a choke rod for a Rochester 2 jet carb out of a 67 Cutlass
w/ a 330 (250 HP).  Can anyone help?  It seems the original owner removed it
and threw it out.
(From Texas).  It sure is a pain in NJ
   
   Thanks 
   Bob Iozia
   Brick, NJ
69 442
67 Cutlass Conv
57 Ch*vy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 02:51:07 -0600
From: mls@wwa.com
Subject: 442 Key Blank

I'm the original owner of a 1980 442 W-30. When these cars were ordered, a
special ignition key for the car was sent out a couple of weeks before the
car was even finished being built. This key has a plastic inlay on each
side of the key head. One side is red with a gold Oldsmobile emblem in it,
the other is red with a gold 442 emblem in it. Unfortunatly my key was lost
in a lake. Anyone know where I'd be able to get a key blank like this?

Thanks.

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 06:43:32 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Project 455/4WD

This was sent just before Tom returned to the list... forwarding.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Tom Millard <oldspwr@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Project 455/4WD

After a short hiatus, I am now back on the mail list and am ready to begin
a new project.  Awhile back I mentioned that I would like to put an Olds
engine in a 81-87 Chevy/GMC 4WD pickup.  Well here it goes, "Project 455/4WD".

To start, a recently purchased an 84 Chevy Silverado 4WD with a 305, 700-4R
trans, and 2.73 gears.  As luck would have it, in my second week of
ownership the spider gears decided to let loose in the rear axle and in the
process a tooth was sheared off the pinion.  So after punching some
numbers, I replaced the 2.73's with 3.42's.  The engine now turns 2500 rpms
at 65mph which is a lot better than 1900 rpms.

So now on to the engine...  The 305 gets about 8 mpg on a good day, and
there is about 1" of vacuum cruising.  So I have decided to replace it with
a 455 Olds, and here is a list of parts I am using:

Block: 76 455 from a Vista Cruiser
Crank: Nodular Iron from a 71 Toronado
Rods: Stock 76 
Pistons: Stock 76 (which should yield approx 8.5:1 compression)
Cam: Edelbrock Performer, which specs are comparable to a good RV cam for a
Big Block
Intake: 70 4 barrel non-egr
Carb: Stock Qjet from 76 455
Heads: K(small cap A) with 2.07" intakes and 1.68" exhausts

So here is what I know so far: These trucks cam with Olds 5.7 diesels up
until 81?.  In 82?, GM's Detroit Diesel division completely redesigned the
diesel and came up with the 6.2L.  Everybody I talked to so far has stated
that the bell housing of the 6.2 in the Chevy bolt battern and not the BOP.
 But I have also heard of people replacing 6.2's with Olds engines.  I plan
on keeping the overdrive trans so I will probably buy an adapter plate from
TCI for about $50.  This plate is available from Jegs and adapts Chevy
trans to BOP engines.

I know that somebody on this list has done this before, and I would
appreciate any help that I could get (like motor mounts, etc...)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 06:24:41 -0500
From: loris <loris@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Lower Rad Hose Position

Lloyd Ferguson wrote:
> 
> I noticed that on my '69 Cutlass "S" 350 the lower rad hose pushes slightly
> against the exposed threads on the end of idler arm bolt.  I have seen
> other cars in shows and most of them do the same.  It seems to me that this
> might be a source of wear and eventual failure.  Has anyone had problems
> with this or found a solution?


Odd.  Mine doesn't do that.  I did purchase the formed lower rad hose,
though.  Are you using a staight piece of hose that you've just bent to
fit, or is it formed?

- -Loris

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 14:02:59 +0300
From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Subject: Re[2]: Blinking head lights

I made a full explanation (with obvious errors) on how to
connect a light relay (easily) on Your vechile to take load out
of Your precious ignition key.

The document is written in HTML and includes one picture.....
it is NOT here.

If You want a copy of this document, email me and I'll send You
a copy in the replay. State if You want a MAC or PC version,
if You don't You'll receive them both. (They aren't so big though)
just about 16kb each.


- -- 
x----------------------------------------------------x
x Esko Ilola       mailto:esko.ilola@tele.fi         x
x                  mailto:esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi x
x                   phone:+358 2040 3439             x
x Oldsmobile 98 -64 4DHT  Holiday sports sedan       x
x "Where the action is...."                          x
x----------------------------------------------------x

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 14:21:35 +0300
From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Subject: Re:Soylent Ocean Mist's strong resistance...

Karl Aune wrote:

> I pulled the coil and resistor yesterday and cleaned them up. I just tested
> them for resistance (and it took me about an hour to find my WWII-era
> multitester). These values are measured at approximately 60 degrees fahrenheit
> and specifications are for 75 degrees.
< and so on.... >

The resistance values You have are otherwise OK but the ballast resistor might
be broken.
Actually it looks merely like a leaking condensator.

If this is a points-distributor then there is something wrong. You can't connect
the ballast resistor in that way in point-distributor. I mean grounding the
other end.

Your WWII multimeter is excellent IF it can measure ranges 1..2 ohms and kilo-ohms
as well. It's more than adequate for automotive use.


IMHO:
If You didn't have the resistive wire, You would have a fried ignition switch.

And, as You haven't had Your barbecue party yet, I'll bet You have the
resistive wire and
the "barrel" is a condensator.


- -- 
x----------------------------------------------------x
x Esko Ilola       mailto:esko.ilola@tele.fi         x
x                  mailto:esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi x
x                   phone:+358 2040 3439             x
x Oldsmobile 98 -64 4DHT  Holiday sports sedan       x
x "Where the action is...."                          x
x----------------------------------------------------x

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 14:39:34 +0300
From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Subject: Re:Independent Wipers

Quick answer to Your "stubborn wiper" question:

The circuitry that shuts off the wipers after You have switched
them off is located inside the wiper gear.

The circuitry actually feeds juice for the wipers until they appear
in their "sleeping" position. The circuitry should then cut off the
current.

In Your case the circuit breaker inside the gear may be sticky.

Just a wiiild quess.

- -- 
x----------------------------------------------------x
x Esko Ilola       mailto:esko.ilola@tele.fi         x
x                  mailto:esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi x
x                   phone:+358 2040 3439             x
x Oldsmobile 98 -64 4DHT  Holiday sports sedan       x
x "Where the action is...."                          x
x----------------------------------------------------x

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 15:03:13 +0300
From: Esko Ilola <esko.ilola@tele.fi>
Subject: Re:Recently rebuilt engine problems

IRA wrote:

> engine builder has tried 2 cams: Mondello JM18-20 and crane (don't know
> p/n, but very mild), and has swarn he has checked/adjusted everything
> that can be checked/adjusted in the valve train, twice. He was told the
> noise was valve slap (common with aftermarket cams???) and to install
> stiffer springs...still no help.

Sounds like the oil getting thinner as it warms causin the sound.

Put in a hi-volume oil pump with adequate pan not to run out of
oil. Excessive oil will not harm the engine if this doesn't
help.

Have You measured the oil pressure ?

Just a(nother) wild guess.

- -- 
x----------------------------------------------------x
x Esko Ilola       mailto:esko.ilola@tele.fi         x
x                  mailto:esko.ilola@tele.telebox.fi x
x                   phone:+358 2040 3439             x
x Oldsmobile 98 -64 4DHT  Holiday sports sedan       x
x "Where the action is...."                          x
x----------------------------------------------------x

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 09:09:24 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Lower Rad Hose Position

On Tue, 20 Jan 1998, loris wrote:
> Lloyd Ferguson wrote:
> > I noticed that on my '69 Cutlass "S" 350 the lower rad hose pushes slightly
> > against the exposed threads on the end of idler arm bolt.  I have seen
> > other cars in shows and most of them do the same.  It seems to me that this
> > might be a source of wear and eventual failure.  Has anyone had problems
> > with this or found a solution?
> Odd.  Mine doesn't do that.  I did purchase the formed lower rad hose,
> though.  Are you using a staight piece of hose that you've just bent to
> fit, or is it formed?

Mine comes real close to the bolts. Just barely touches. This is a 
repro molded hose from Fusick. Before that I had a flex hose on there 
(hated it but it was all I could get locally) and it rubbed hard up 
against the bolts. I figured that wasn't a good thing.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 08:37:16 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Tach

< Is there some adjustment I can make or do I send it off somewhere to get
it and the
>clock repaired?  If so, who does anyone recommend I send it to?>


Hey Dan,

Tick-Toc-Tachs are known to need almost constant calibration.  Mine runs
about 5800 rpm @ 65mph with a 3.23 gear.  You'll find information how to
calibrate the tach in the Olds FAQs.  www.442.com , is one place to find the
FAQ list.  If you happen to have a chassis manual, info about the tach can
be found in there also.  Calibration is quite easy.  Just make sure you
ground the tach body BEFORE you start the car!  It could be a "shocking
experience" if you don't.  :-o

As for the clock, there are many places that do this.  I suggest you upgrade
the movement to quartz.  There are do-it-yourself kits (around $30. - $45.),
but I understand you must be careful not to damage the tach while replacing
the clock.  Your best bet is to call the places below and decide what route
you want to take.

Clock Doc  - 800-256-5362
Instrument Services  -  800-558-2674
Bob's Speedometer  -  800-592-9673
Williamson's  -  (501) 369-2551

Hope this helps!  Good luck.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
1995 Achieva S

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/  (sprynet's server is down as of
1-19-98)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 08:46:02 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: 442 Key Blank

<......... One side is red with a gold Oldsmobile emblem in it, the other is
red with a gold 442 emblem in it. Unfortunatly my key was lost in a lake.
Anyone know where I'd be able to get a key blank like this?>

Mike,

This was a special, dealer offered key blank.  I have been looking myself
for them but to no avail.  You can try to contact local Olds dealerships,
but that's a long shot.  When I contacted dealerships, they knew what key I
was talking about, but said they were gone along time ago.

I'd try swap meets, car shows etc...  Seems like there is always someone
selling NOS blanks and other ignition parts.

Good Luck.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
1995 Achieva S

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/  (sprynet's server is down as of
1-19-98)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 09:55:39 -0500
From: "VanSant, David CWO" <DVanSant@lantd5.uscg.mil>
Subject: RE: carb part

Bob,

	Check with Star Auto Parts in Kearny, NJ.  They saved my bacon a couple
of times when I was stationed up there.


Dave Van Sant
dvansant@lantd5.uscg.mil
'71 Topless Cutlass Supreme
'88 Plymouth Sundance
'89 Chevrolet Astro
'96 Plymouth Neon DOHC


>----------
>From: 	OLDZ69442[SMTP:OLDZ69442@aol.com]
>Sent: 	Tuesday, 1998 January, 20 01:56 14:21
>To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: 	carb part
>
>List,
>   I'm in need of a choke rod for a Rochester 2 jet carb out of a 67 Cutlass
>w/ a 330 (250 HP).  Can anyone help?  It seems the original owner removed it
>and threw it out.
>(From Texas).  It sure is a pain in NJ
>   
>   Thanks 
>   Bob Iozia
>   Brick, NJ
>69 442
>67 Cutlass Conv
>57 Ch*vy
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 98 10:28:04 GMT
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Lower Rad Hose Position

Lloyd Ferguson wrote:

I noticed that on my '69 Cutlass "S" 350 the lower rad hose pushes slightly 
against the exposed threads on the end of idler arm bolt...It seems to me 
that this might be a source of wear and eventual failure.  Has anyone had 
problems with this or found a solution?
     
     Lloyd,
     
     Yes, this is a common problem.  I don't know if the replacement 
     radiator hoses are just the wrong shape or if it's a factory 
     "feature", but every 68-72 A-body I've owned has had this problem.  
     It's definitely worse with the corrugated one-size-fits-none type of 
     hose, but it also happens with the molded hoses.  The only solution 
     I've come up with is to cut a straight section of the old hose about 3 
     or 4 inches long and slit it lengthwise.  I slip this over the new 
     hose in the area of the bolts to protect it.  Obviously, this doesn't 
     look particularly sanitary, however it is easily removed for shows.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30
     
     

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 11:06:07 EST
From: TERMO1L <TERMO1L@aol.com>
Subject: Olds 330

I am seeking as much info on olds 330 as possible.  Little to no info is
available on these engines and any help would be appreciated.  I am also
looking for headers for  this 1966 olds F-85 with the 330.  Everyone I have
contacted has stated they are no longer being made.  Any info on where to find
some or if there even worth it would be great.

Thanks
Mike  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 11:02:39 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 455 Oiling information needed

>Had a guy E-mail me privately looking for diagrams or schematics of the
>455's oiling system.  Anyone have any pertinent pic's posted anywhere? 

Any shop manual with a section for an Olds V-8 motor should have the
description and the accompanying diagram at the start of the engine
section. Even my '78 Buick manual has one, since the Olds 350 and 403 V-8's
were installed in certain models that year.

This is definitely something that should be scanned in, though. The
description and diagram is pretty clear.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 11:00:07 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: 1975 Delta 88 Royale

>	I have a 1975 Delta 88 Royale and I was wondering if any of you 
>could help me out in regards to the engine in this car.  I had always 
>read that GM didn't start swapping engines in the full sized cars until 
>1977, but my car has a 400cid Pontiac 2bbl.  The vin is 3N39R5M176667 and 
>according to information I have found on both the Bryceman and Gulino 
>pages this engine is original and was option code L65.  But why did Olds 
>install 400 Pontiac engines for 1975 only?  According to info I have 
>found they offered the 400 2bbl(vin code R) and the 400 4bbl(vin code S).

The topic of those Pontiac 400 engines did come up on the list a while ago;
as you note, it's obviously original. I don't know what the reasoning for
that was, except perhaps to provide a more powerful alternative to the 350
that was more fuel-efficient than the 455. This was right after the '73-'74
gas crisis, when a 400ci 2-bbl motor looked like an *economy* option. Then
again, maybe the demand for the 350 in the Cultass line was so high (these
were the glory days of the Cutlass model, in terms of production) that
demand for 350's outstripped the supply.

This was one of the early examples of V-8 engine swapping (Olds had been
doing it with 6-cyls since the early 60's) among the GM manufacturers; it
became the norm with the 1977 models.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 08:24:28 -0800
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Plugging my EGR valve?

Robert F. Newbegin Jr. wrote:

> I figured that if I
> plugged the EGR itself, it would increase power/performance or something.

Since the EGR isn't active at Wide Open Throttle, you won't gain anything at
WOT by disconnecting the EGR.  At part throttle you may gain some power, but if
you want more power at part throttle you just open the throttle more :-)

Not having an EGR will require rejetting the carb and adjusting the timing.
The EGR helps prevent detonation and allows a bit more timing to be run.  That
extra spark advance helps make up some of the power loss from the EGR.

Our '78 350 had a bad EGR valve.  Not wanting to spend $75 on a new one when
it's in a truck that used to run leaded gas and has very lax emissions
requirements, I just fabricated a block off plate from some aluminum bar stock
and stuck it in place with red Permatex.  Fixed the problem, but I had to back
off the timing a few degrees and we still have to run 89 octane gas when
carrying a load or doing something strenuous.  I'm sure recurving the spark
advance and possibly rejetting the car might help, but it isn't really worth
the effort to me.

BTW, does anyone know what the base timing should be for an Olds 350 out of a
'77 full size car?  Our diesel conversion truck doesn't have tune-up info on
the fan shroud for some strange reason ;-)

> However, it is running pretty good, and I should probably leave good enough
> alone.  :-)

Sounds like the best idea to me.  If it ain't broke. . .
- --
Tom Lentz, tlentz@ior.com                        '84 Hurst/Olds #2118
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz                       '78 Cutlass Supreme
Network Admin, CPM Corp, Spokane, WA.            '78 Chev 1/2ton (Olds 350)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 09:46:47 PST
From: "Aaron Kollsmith" <kollsmith@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Mondello

Hi Sam, 
  
  I have Mondello's tech manual.  It has alot of useful information in 
it but, it isn't very well organized throughout the book.  Still worth 
the money though.

>From oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca Sun Jan 18 22:22:57 1998
>Received: by chebucto.ns.ca id <92873-2571>; Mon, 19 Jan 1998 02:25:59 
- -0400
>Received: from NO-IDENT-SERVICE@mpdr0.chicago.il.ameritech.net (port 
63042 [206.141.192.243]) by chebucto.ns.ca with ESMTP id <93037-2571>; 
Mon, 19 Jan 1998 02:25:43 -0400
>Received: from ameritech.net (dyn-max4-196.chicago.il.ameritech.net 
[206.141.209.196]) by mailhost.chicago.il.ameritech.net 
(8.8.3/8.8.3-AIMS) with ESMTP id AAA20660 for 
<oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca>; Mon, 19 Jan 1998 00:20:39 -0600 (CST)
>Message-ID: <34C2EEC0.6F7CAB0E@ameritech.net>
>Date:	Mon, 19 Jan 1998 00:12:16 -0600
>From:	"Samuel E. Johnson, Jr" <cutlass403@ameritech.net>
>Organization: Home
>X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.03 [en] (Win95; I)
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>To:	Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Subject: Mondello
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>Sender: oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>Has anyone ever ordered the tec book that Joe Mondello sells on Olds
>motors? Is it as good as the 442 Tec web site? I was thinking about
>buying it for a cost of about $35.
>
>Please advise.
>
>Thanks
>
>Sam Johnson
>
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 12:22:26 -0600
From: mls@wwa.com
Subject: Re: 442 Key Blank

>This was a special, dealer offered key blank.  I have been looking myself
>for them but to no avail.  You can try to contact local Olds dealerships,
>but that's a long shot.  When I contacted dealerships, they knew what key I
>was talking about, but said they were gone along time ago.

When I originally ordered the car, the key was sent to the dealership by
Oldsmobile a couple of weeks before the car was ready. Back when the car
was fairly new, I met and talked to someone else that had also ordered a
car, and he was also sent the key from Oldsmobile before the car was
completed. The key was lost way back about 1985 or 1986. At that time, I
went to an Oldsmobile dealership that had one of the bigger parts
departments in the area. The parts guys there had never seen or heard about
a key like that. The head parts guy was particularly interested because he
wanted one for himself. He called several other places to try and find
something out, but had no luck. He even went to the extent of calling
Oldsmobile in Michigan. They told him that they didn't know anything about
special keys being offered, or that anything like that had been sent out.
He asked me to get back in touch with him if I was ever able to find out
anything about it. I never did come across anything on it at that time, and
loosing that key still kind of bugs me. If you ever do come across
anything, please let me know. Thanks.

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 13:32:45 EST
From: BIG JERMES <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Project 455/4WD

In a message dated 98-01-20 06:01:51 EST, you write:

<< So after punching some
 numbers, I replaced the 2.73's with 3.42's.  >>

boy, i sure hope you changed the gears in the front end, too!  i wouldnt
suggest using 4wd if you didnt.   different gear ratios like that would surely
break something..  (2.73 in front, 3.42 in rear)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 11:44:49 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: Lower Rad Hose Position

> I noticed that on my '69 Cutlass "S" 350 the lower rad hose pushes slightly
> against the exposed threads on the end of idler arm bolt.  I have seen
> other cars in shows and most of them do the same.  It seems to me that this
> might be a source of wear and eventual failure.  Has anyone had problems
> with this or found a solution?

> Lloyd Ferguson
> ferguson@1stnetusa.com

Yes, Lloyd, I've experienced the exact same problem - in my '76 Monte Carlo
with a 305 SB Chevy engine even!  It would seem that GM didn't consider this
possibility too much when designing the hoses.  And all aftermarket hoses
blindly follow the design that has been set in place.  About 2 weeks ago I just
put my 2nd lower hose on the Monte in the past 3 years - two times the idler
arm bolt ripped a gash through the hose.  I decided THIS time to (although it
looks really cheesy and stupid) tie a piece of copper wire around the hose at
the lowest point and I've applied a bit of pull upwards and tied the wire to
the alternator bracket (on the passenger side of the engine on the Chevy).  It
seems to be clearing for now, but for a long term solution on a show-quality
car, I'm not sure what could be done.  I've thought about taking a bit of
material off the water pump end of the hose so it could slip farther upwards
onto the pump, and thus not be sitting down so far on that corner.  I'll have
to try that on my Cutlass when I get 'er goin in the spring.
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
468 BigBlock '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 12:31:44 -0800
From: "mr. coy d. arbogast" <coyster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Hood question

If you need a 68 hood let me know i have an extra one from my project.
It has the 2 chrome louvers on the side and the rear vent.
Raised hood.
Thanks Coy

- ----------
> From: Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Hood question
> Date: Monday, January 19, 1998 9:44 AM
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Two questions:
> 
> 1) Does any one make repoduction 68 hoods?
> 2) Does a 68 Cutlass hood differ from a 68 Cutlass S/442 hood?
> 
> TIA,
> 
> Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 15:24:57 EST
From: Aceastlake <Aceastlake@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Tach

Dan:

The tach on my '86 has trouble too, measures exactly DOUBLE the number of
revs/minute the engine is actually turning.   According to my friendly dealer
(who ran diagnostics) the problem is in the display unit itself and not the
sending equipment or wiring.  

Unfortunately, GM quit making the unit in '90 and I've been looking all over
the east coast for a used unit and finally found one.  Can't imagine the
trouble you'll have  finding a unit for your '70 but this is the route you'll
probably have to take.

www.directauto.com let's you send a message to "their members" for free, this
is how I found the '86 part (usual disclaimers, not related &c.).

Cheers!

Allen Eastlake
J.Y. Angel ('86 4-4-2)
Reston Valdez ('83 Volvo GL Sedan)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 12:34:07 -0800
From: "mr. coy d. arbogast" <coyster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Olds 330

There are still some Jardine headers for this combination.
You might try J&M speed center in Riverside California.
Also Hedman Headers sometimes depending on which shop you go to still makes
them or did.
Thanks Coy

- ----------
> From: TERMO1L <TERMO1L@aol.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Olds 330
> Date: Tuesday, January 20, 1998 8:06 AM
> 
> I am seeking as much info on olds 330 as possible.  Little to no info is
> available on these engines and any help would be appreciated.  I am also
> looking for headers for  this 1966 olds F-85 with the 330.  Everyone I
have
> contacted has stated they are no longer being made.  Any info on where to
find
> some or if there even worth it would be great.
> 
> Thanks
> Mike  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 15:51:00 EST
From: COUPE KING <COUPEKING@aol.com>
Subject: Bryceman's page

For the last 4-5 days I've been unable to log onto Bryceman's page @442.com to
scan the classified and oldsmobilia. Just get the 'dedicated to preservation
of Olds" etc..page with a listing of 'hits' . Stops cold there.

Is something wrong with my computer or is this a problem at the site? Anybody
else having troubles getting to this page? Need my classified fix!  Getting
shaky....

Peter
CoupeKing

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 16:06:05 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Lower Rad Hose Position

> I noticed that on my '69 Cutlass "S" 350 the lower rad hose pushes slightly
> against the exposed threads on the end of idler arm bolt.  I have seen
> other cars in shows and most of them do the same.

Left alone, it WILL eat a hole in the hose.  My 71 442 did this with
aftermarket preformed hose also.  It turned out the hose was just a TAD
longer than the original, so I trimmed it a slight bit where it goes
into the rad, and it brought it far enough away from the bolts.  No
problemo.

2 cents,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 16:12:29 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: FYI:69 Cutlass bumper-to-lower radiator "filler"

> Is this just the "seal-air deflector to bumper" which is stapled to the
> "deflector-radiator air lower" or the entire assembly?

It is the rubber part only.  It does come with staples though.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 16:09:53 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: FYI:69 Cutlass bumper-to-lower radiator "filler"

> What is this part number from Year One?  If it can be modified for a
> 1969 then I'm sure I can do the same for a 1968. Thanks,

I'm not entirely sure what the 68 used, but if it's like the 69, then it
will work.  The YO part numbe is RCD95, listed at $19.00 and includes
the staples.  They call it "Air Deflector to Bumper Seal" for 70-72
models only with HD cooling or A/C.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 17:03:02 -0500
From: "John Richmond" <richmond@tir.com>
Subject: Fw: 1972 Cutlass Conv. For Sale

Found this today on our classified database at Chrysler.
Just thought maybe someone would be interested.

John Richmond
richmond@tir.com   or   jwr10@chrysler.com
Warren, MI
72 442/455


- ----------
> 
>         Classified Ads
> 
> 
> Classified Ad Title: 1972 Olds Cutlass Conv
> Home Phone: 810-254-2407 
> 
> Classified Ad or Event Description:
> Red Exterior
> White Interior
> Bucket Seats
> 350 Auto
> Rally Wheels
> A/C
> AM/FM
> High Miles (but runs great)
> Price $7,900
> Kansas Car
> 3rd Owner
> 
> e-mail: bh15@chrysler.com
> 
> 
> Status: Published
> Publication Date: 01/15/98
> 
> 
> 
> Created By:      William E Head
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 18:09:59 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: FS: 69 H/O mirror gaskets

Well, I did it again.  If no one makes the parts, go out and get 'em
made yourself.  I remember it was about 10 months ago I was searching
for H/O mirror gaskets and the first place I asked was this list.  Now,
this is the first place you'll read about this.  For anyone that has a
'69 Hurst/Olds, or know of anyone that has one, and are in dire need of
replacement mirror gaskets, e-mail me privately.  These are exact
replicas of the impossible to find gaskets.  I can guarantee you won't
find these anywhere else.  One pair needed per car.  $8 per PAIR, + $3
for shipping.

These gaskets fit the '69 H/O ONLY, and don't fit anything else to my
knowledge.  (The Hurst SC/Rambler gaskets are flat on the bottom, so
they won't work on them either.)

More trivial '69 Hurst info,
Mike Rothe
mrothe@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 15:22:48 -0800
From: "mr. coy d. arbogast" <coyster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Hood question

Hello Chris,
Don't know if you got my earlier letter about the hoods.
I have a nice 68 olds raised hood, with chrome louvers and rear vent.
If interested let me know.
Thanks Coy

- ----------
> From: Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Hood question
> Date: Monday, January 19, 1998 9:44 AM
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Two questions:
> 
> 1) Does any one make repoduction 68 hoods?
> 2) Does a 68 Cutlass hood differ from a 68 Cutlass S/442 hood?
> 
> TIA,
> 
> Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 15:25:27 -0800
From: "mr. coy d. arbogast" <coyster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Olds 330

Let me know if you recieve this computer has been having problems lately.
Headman and Jardine use to make headers for this vehicle.
Also jardines have been out for awhile put some of the oldwer speed shops
may still have them.
Try J&M Speed Center in Riverside California.
Thanks Coy

- ----------
> From: TERMO1L <TERMO1L@aol.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Olds 330
> Date: Tuesday, January 20, 1998 8:06 AM
> 
> I am seeking as much info on olds 330 as possible.  Little to no info is
> available on these engines and any help would be appreciated.  I am also
> looking for headers for  this 1966 olds F-85 with the 330.  Everyone I
have
> contacted has stated they are no longer being made.  Any info on where to
find
> some or if there even worth it would be great.
> 
> Thanks
> Mike  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 18:32:52 EST
From: OldsGuyGA <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Bryceman's page

 brycemans has been slow,,also noticed my old ad placed in  nov gone .....

   maybe things will get better hope so olds guy...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 18:40:38 EST
From: Rid n 88 <Ridn88@aol.com>
Subject: brycemans page

yea i also had a problem opening his page. i put a picture of a car i liked in
my favorite places and i cannot open it either when you find the problem let
me know.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 19:21:40 -0500
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Long Island List Members - help a 442

Got this and thoght some list members might be able to help.
Please reply to him at mailto:Jsrybnik@aol.com.

Jed Srybnik wrote:
> 
> Dear Sir,
> I note that you have a 442 1971 Oldsmobile. My sister owns a 442
> 1971 Covertible. She is the original owner. At this point she has tried
> to keep with keeping the car up to date but at this time I thought
> it would be time to either sell it or restore the car. I thought
> it would be better to restore it. At any rate We live on Long Island
> New York and we are looking for someone that is reputable for restoring
> the car on a long term basis as you know it is always a work in
> progress. Any help or ideas would be be helpful.
> 
> Yours Truly,
> Jed Srybnik
> Jsrybnik@aol.com

- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 19:26:05 +0000
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: BB combustion chambers

evans1@serv01.net-link.net wrote:
> 
> Hey, Rob,
> 
> 12.03/112 says you obviously are pretty good at this, I see!  You run at
> Milan, I presume?

MILAN!!! I'm there as soon as the 'ol (new) girl's been broken in
proper. $20 for as many passes as you want is a good deal, too. I was
going to go when she was stock, but I was forced to stay home and
eat!!!!

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 19:30:26 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: brycemans page

It was a tad slow, but I had no problem working my way through.  Maybe a
lot of traffic???  Hmmm...

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 19:29:25 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Bryceman's page

I also have had problems accessing this page last couple of days.
Glad to hear it's not only me ..... expeecially since I have a Packard Bell
system......

Rob Thomas

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 19:48:22 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: 1975 Delta 88 Royale

Hi Bob,

> This was one of the early examples of V-8 engine swapping (Olds had been
> doing it with 6-cyls since the early 60's) among the GM manufacturers; it
> became the norm with the 1977 models.

Having looked at very many '77 full-size Olds, Ch*v 350 equipped Delta
88's seem to be more the exception rather than the rule.  Does anyone
have any production numbers for these errant models?  I think all '77
Delta 88/Custom Cruiser owners received notification concerning the
possibility of their car having a non-Olds motor, regardless of
engine code.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 19:38:53 -0500
From: "John Gill" <jgill@idmi.com>
Subject: Re: 442 Key Blank

Mike,

This is a long shot but a fella I know in Akron, OH is heavy into all kinds
of keys and things.  I think he even runs ads in JWO.  He is worth a call
because he goes to all the shows and swap meets in the Midwest and he buys
up old stock.

Call: Joey Jester
(330) 376-8181

John Gill
jgill@idmi.com



- ----------
> From: mls@wwa.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 442 Key Blank
> Date: Tuesday, January 20, 1998 3:51 AM
> 
> I'm the original owner of a 1980 442 W-30. When these cars were ordered,
a
> special ignition key for the car was sent out a couple of weeks before
the
> car was even finished being built. This key has a plastic inlay on each
> side of the key head. One side is red with a gold Oldsmobile emblem in
it,
> the other is red with a gold 442 emblem in it. Unfortunatly my key was
lost
> in a lake. Anyone know where I'd be able to get a key blank like this?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Mike

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 19:35:41 -0600
From: Patrick Derkacz <patrickd@wwnet.com>
Subject: Re: 68/69 trunk opening, roadtrip etc?

I recently picked up a 69 442.  The trunk opening( where the
weatherstrip mounts) is rusted out, so I am looking to scavenge one from
a parts car.  Does anyone know if it would be the same for a '68?  Are
the decklids interchangeable between years?  If so, you would think the
trunk opening would be the same, right?  

By the way,this is the car that Aaron posted a few weeks ago under save
the 442.  My brother,a friend and I drove his D*dge Ram to Atlanta from
Detroit last weekend picked up the car and drove back. Left at 7:30 Fri.
night and got back Sunday about 1:30 am, about 30 hours later.(Can you
say roadtrip)

Sweet deal on the car, White, red interior, original motor and trans,
3.23 posi, solid floor and trunk pans.  Fender and quarters have the
traditional rust, doors are excellent, AC,PW, extra 455 and two sets of
'69 442 grilles in the box from year one (list @ $300/set). 

so I am starting another frame off resto

patrickd@wwnet.com
69 442 conv(with new grilles)
69 442(about to be restored)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 19:04:10 -0600
From: "James Moore" <panman638@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Under hood color

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BD25D6.30CCD040
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I will soon be ready to paint a 1972 4-4-2. I need to know if the inside =
of the hood is the same color as the car or is it black?

- ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BD25D6.30CCD040
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I will soon be ready to paint a 1972 4-4-2. I need =
to know if=20
the inside of the hood is the same color as the car or is it=20
black?</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BD25D6.30CCD040--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 20:29:01 EST
From: KarlAune <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: To: ADMIN and listmembers, I have a solution!

Someone wrote to me:

>  Yeah, but how many people would read it?

Meaning of course a once-a-day "How to #ns#bscr*b@" message.

Well for starters the Email would be titled exactly as above (not feeling as
silly today). Secondly, have you noticed that sometimes people who try to get
off send the contents of an Email back to the list with the usual pleas as the
only new text? This could only mean that they read at least some of our
messages, right? In addition, if they at least skim the subject headings they
couldn't miss it, could they?

Then again I have learned to assume that most people will act in their own
interests and ignore anything that does not interest them.

Oh well....

Karl Aune and Soylent Ocean Mist
1965 Dynamic 88 Celebrity Sedan

Members; OCA, IVOC

Your car wants you to go to the Oldsmobile Nationals in Springfield Illinois.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 19:06:10 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Project 455/4WD

Well here it goes, "Project 455/4WD".

Hmmm.  A 4-4~4~2??  Cool!
 
Have an opportunity to buy ~another~ , uhh, car, I guess.  I haven't
seen it, but here's how it was described to me.  A 72 Pont. 400, freshly
built, on an International frame.  (Don't laugh, it gets ~better!~)
Behind the 400 is an Olds TH400.  THEN, a 4 speed, ~THEN~ a transfer
case!!!  The way it sounds he's got some munster sized tires, too.  Said
after the overhaul they'd spin pretty easily.  He said they actually
~raced~ the thing, and that he'd come up with some 26 gears to run
through!  I'll believe it when I see the pictures.  I'm scared to see
what kind of body is over all of that stuff!  (if there ~is~ one!) 
Apparantly he took off to the military shortly after this contraption
was summoned, and only got to drive it a couple times.  He said his dad
"raced" it once while he was gone, but other than that it's sat dead for
some eight years or so.  I told him I'd probably take it (really curious
to see how hideous it actually is!) but the poncho should bolt right up
to any of my Olds's in a pinch (which the Rockit just happens to be in!)
A TH400, 4 spd, and Xfer case could be sellable items too, as long as
they don't say subaru or something on 'em!  I'm supposed to be getting
pictures, I'm ~really~ curious!!!
- -- 
               Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
		http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
		        Sidney Montana

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 21:04:37 EST
From: TERMO1L <TERMO1L@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Bryceman's page

I had the same problem earlier today and thought that it was my computer.  I
have no idea if it is a glitch or what........

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 21:07:31 EST
From: TERMO1L <TERMO1L@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Olds 330

I talked to Headman and they stopped making them five years ago. As for the
others I have not a clue how to get a hold of these companies.  Any info on
Jardine or J&M speed center in CA would be great

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 21:11:19 -0500
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Under hood color

James Moore wrote:
> 
> I will soon be ready to paint a 1972 4-4-2. I need to know if the
> inside of the hood is the same color as the car or is it black?

My '72 has the standard hood which is flat black underneath with some
kind of chalk marks along one side.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

Why do they call it a TV set when you only get one?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 19:15:47 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: To: ADMIN and listmembers, I have a solution!

> >  Yeah, but how many people would read it?
> 
> Meaning of course a once-a-day "How to #ns#bscr*b@" message.

I'd mentioned to Greg once a while back the thought of doing what some
providers do.  If you ever notice any Hotmail users' messages they have
some advertising crap at the bottom, the hotmail.com, etc.  It's all
automatically stuck on the messages as they pass through the server, I
think.  I'd suggested putting unsub'ing instructions in that form, but
that'd probably be a hassle for the digest folks.  He wasn't sure how
much of a task that would be.  If I remember right the "closed list"
issue was just being tackled then.  Maybe just a simple line at the
bottom of each post

To remove yourself from these mailings:
http://www.get-me-the-hell-off-of-here.com

or something to that nature, where the appropriate page would have html
instructions on how to remove yourself, or other pertinant majordummy
commands.  Basically a majordummy FAQ page I suppose.  As for how many
would actually read it, I couldn't say.  It's a thought, anyway...

               Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
		http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
		        Sidney Montana

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 21:28:11 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: To: ADMIN and listmembers, I have a solution!

KarlAune wrote:
>
> Then again I have learned to assume that most people will act in their own
> interests and ignore anything that does not interest them.

At least, they would read the message once, I'd think.  I read at
least the beginning of all the threads.  If it's on something I
have no clue about, I'll learn to look past those subject lines
and look for something else.  At least folks wold know it's
there, so before unsubscribing, wait until the daily instruction
email comes out for the exact instructions.

+---------------------------------------------------------------+
|	__    ________						|
|	\ \  / __  __/	Jason Adcock				|
|	 \ \/ / / /	CS Major, Virginia Tech			|
|	  \  / / /	mailto:jadcock@vt.edu			|
|	   \/ /_/	http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/		|
|								|
+---------------------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 21:36:14 EST
From: SRDIET <SRDIET@aol.com>
Subject: 71 Body Alignment

Perhaps someone with a 71 442 body manual can help me out,  I need to know
what the gap dimensions are for aligning the doors on my 71 442.  Bottom, rear
and front.

I'm trying to get the body back into alignment before I send it off to the
paint shop in March.

Also, does anyone know the proper lenght, or ohms resistance, the resistance
wire in the starter circuit should be ?  This wire is clearly printed "do not
cut" but almost every car I work on it is cut.

SteveDietrich
  S/E PA
    71 442 W30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 21:59:56 -0500
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Under hood color

At 07:04 PM 1/20/98 -0600, you wrote:
        The correct color for under the hood is a semi flat (eggshell) black.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts


>I will soon be ready to paint a 1972 4-4-2. I need to know if the inside of
the hood is the same color as the car or is it black?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 14:11:58 -0500
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Re: Lower Rad Hose Position

>Lloyd Ferguson wrote:
>>
>> I noticed that on my '69 Cutlass "S" 350 the lower rad hose pushes slightly
>> against the exposed threads on the end of idler arm bolt.  I have seen
>> other cars in shows and most of them do the same.  It seems to me that this
>> might be a source of wear and eventual failure.  Has anyone had problems
>> with this or found a solution?
>
>
>Odd.  Mine doesn't do that.  I did purchase the formed lower rad hose,
>though.  Are you using a staight piece of hose that you've just bent to
>fit, or is it formed?
>
>-Loris

It is a formed aftermarket hose that I bought at Chief.


Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 22:31:04 -0500
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro

                                          C&M Classic Parts
                       1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                                (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
                                         <chermac@exis.net>

Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm,  Sat 9:00 am - 6:00 pm,  Sunday Closed
*We accept all major Credit Cards. VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and Discover.*
Lots of new reproduction parts will be coming out in January-March 98.
We will be vending at the Spring Charlotte Auto Fair at the Charlotte Motor
Speedway on 23-26 Apr.

        66 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $1795.00
        67 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $995.00
        66 & 67 Track Pac kits (complete, just like the dealer option includes;
        shroud, ducts, hoses, cam/lifters, battery accessories) Mar/Apr 98.
                **** Items with an ** are 10% off thru Jan 98.
 
New reproduction parts:
Vinyl Dash Overlays (makes your wood dash areas look like carbon fiber)
$50.00 set 

Lifetime Guarantee on all correct bead window felts  $92.00 set (inner & outer)
66-67 2 dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (correct bead type) 
68-72 2 dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (not Supreme Coupes, correct bead) 

Replacement Window Felts (Flat type)  $60.00 set (inner & outer)
64-72 Cutlass/442 (state year and model)

Glove Box Liners
64-67 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
68-69 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
70-72 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99

Qrt Seals
70-72 Cutlass Supreme & Conv Qtr End seals  $13.00 pr

Hood Liners
64-65 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
66 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
67 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
68-70 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner (wclips)  $18.00
70-72 Cutlass Supreme Hood Liner (w/clips)  $18.00

Liner Clips
Round Clips  $1.00 ea
Square Clips  $1.00 ea

A-Arm Shields
68-72 Upper A-Arm dust shields  $14.99 pr

3M Stripe Kits
68 W-36 Stripe Kits (white, black, red)  $55.00 pr

New Parts:
67 330/320 hp 4bbl engine (complete)  $200.00
71-72 OAI Hood (very nice orig.)  $1000.00
OAI Breather assm (nice orig.)  $550.00
71-72 W-30 Aluminum Intake Manifold (nice)  $650.00
Small Block Cylinder Heads #4 (67) $120, #7 (71),  #7a (72) $145 pr
Big Block Cylinder Heads  "B" (66) $250 pr, "G" (71) $150 pr, 
"H" (71 W-30) $1500 pr.   
68 2 bbl Air Cleaner  $20.00
68-69 Jetaway Trans (very low miles, not a switchpitch)  $90.00
67 Cutlass Hood Chrome Spear (no pits, decent chrome) $45.00
64-68 4 Spd Console Top Plate and Door (fair to good cond, w/good boot)  $50.00
64-66 Master Cylinders (correct, rebuilt)  $43.50 ea
3&4 Spd. Pilot Bushing (Bronze) new  $7.50 ea
3&4 Spd. HD Roller Pilot Bearing new  $24.50 ea 
83-87 Hurst/Olds&442 (N.O.S.) Exhaust System (complete)  $450.00
83-84 Hurst/Olds (N.O.S.) Lightning Rod Whiskers  $150.00
75 Omega Front Fenders (very nice pair)  $180.00 pr
75 Omega Bucket Seats (nice, maroon cloth)  $85.00 pr
65-67 425 "D" Block std bore, small lifter bore  $150.00  
(2) 66-67 442 "E" 400 cu in auto engine (apart, complete, std bore)  $600.00 ea
**64-67 Power Steering Bracket  $15.00
**64-67 Alternator Brackets (A/C car)  $20.00 set
**69-72 4 Row Radiator Top Plate (nice)  $65.00 
69-72 Ignition Switch (w/o tilt)  *new*  $24.00
69-72 Ignition Switch (w/tilt) *new*  $22.00
71 W-30 "TO" Code 10 bolt 3.73:1 anti-spin (date code '352 70') mint  $650.00
**70 LH/RH Hood "L" moldings (few small pits under side, nice) $95.00 pr
**70 442/SX/Rally 350 Rear Cutout Bumper (CORE)  $110.00
**70-72 Lower A/C Vents (for 8 Track car, mint, black)  $80.00 pr 
**70-72 Dash Pad and Dash Plastic (radio area, green, mint)  $185.00
**67-68 Big Cars AM/FM Stereo (nice, works well)  $75.00
**69-72  Bench Seat Headrests (black, mint)  $45.00 pr
68-72 Arm Rest Pad Bases (rear, post coupe, black)  $20.00 pr
**69-70 Console Shift Steering Column (non-tilt)  $95.00
64-72 Power Window Motors  (excellent cond) $50.00 ea
**70-72 455 Engine Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $40.00 pr
**68-72 350 Engine Mount (NEW, Made in USA)  $38.00 pr
**64-72 Jetaway/TH350, 4 Spd Trans Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $14.00 
**67-72 TH400 Trans Mounts (NEW, made in USA)  $17.00 ea
(6) Hurst Wheels 14x6 (5 on 4 3/4) nice  $2300.00 
70-75 Sport Steering Wheel (black, nice centers, complete)  $130.00 ea

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts 1964-1972 Cutlass/442
68-72+ TH Torque Converter Cover (Plastic, N.O.S.)  $31.00 ea
**65 Cutlass/442 PO2 Deluxe Wheelcovers (N.O.S.)  $350.00 set
**66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea                           
**68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea                       
**69 Cutlass RH Grilles (N.O.S.) $85.00 ea                             
**70 Cutlass Supreme Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr
**70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
**71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr                          
**71-72 Stone Shields (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea                              
**71-72 Headlight Housings (plastic) (N.O.S.) $80.00 pr          
**72 Cutlass Supreme & Hurst/Olds Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr

Used Parts:
64 Cutlass/442                       
**64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $50.00
**RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00                                                  
**Front Bumper Core  $50.00                                                   
**F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00                                      

65 Cutlass/442
**64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $50.00
**65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  LH/RH rear $15.00 ea
65-(early) 66 Plain Full Wheel Covers (4, mint)  $30.00 

66 Cutlass/442
**64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $50.00
**66 Cutlass Trunk Molding (very good)  $75.00
**66 Cutlass Tail Light Bezels (very good)  $85.00 pr
65-(early) 66 Plain Full Wheel Covers (4, mint)  $30.00 set
**66 Turbine Full Wheel Covers (4) good  $80.00 set
66 Cutlass/442 Side Chrome moldings (almost complete set) Inquire
**66 F-85/Cutlass grille (nice)   $55.00
**66 F-85/Cutlass grille (good)  $35.00 
**66-67 AM Radios (nice)  $30.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
**66 Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
**Post Coupe Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr
F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea                                  

67 Cutlass/442
**67 4 spd Speedometer Adapter (3.42 gears & 4spd)  $45.00
67 Cutlass Plain Full Hubcaps (4, mint)  $30.00
**67 Plain Cutlass Holiday Hardtop interior door panels and rear sides (very
nice, blue/green) $85.00 set of 4
**67 Cutlass Jetaway Trans (low miles, w/switch pitch converter)  $100.00
66-67 Rear Side window lower U-seals (new, Metro Moulded)  $18.00 pr
**67 Cutlass Hood (mint)  $100.00
67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea
67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.50 ea
**66-67 AM Radios  (nice)  $30.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
**67 F-85 Rear Bumper (very good condition)  $75.00
**67 Front Bumper (straight, core)  $70.00
**67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $50.00 pr
67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $90.00 ea
67 442 Pie Tin Decal  $3.00
**67 RH Fender (small metal patch panel, straight)  $165.00

68 Cutlass/442
**68-69 Cutlass/442 Post Coupe LH Door  $85.00
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
68 Turn Signal Lens (mint)  $12.00 ea
**68 Cutlass Rear Bumper (core)  $75.00
**68-69 14x6 SSII Wheels (set of 5)  $200.00
68 AM Radio  $25.00
**68  8-Track Unit (housing cracked, needs plastic one)  $65.00
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00              
Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set                               
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00                     
68 Air Cleaner Stove Pipe (pipe only)  $10.00                              
**68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $40.00 ea                                            
68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea                                
**68-72 B-Pillar Molding Sets (black, mint) $27.50 pr 

69 Cutlass/442
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
**69 Rallye Pack (Gauge side only)  $75.00
**69 Cutlass RH Grille (nice, used)  $40.00
**69 Cruise Control Switch and Bezel  $25.00
**69 Radiator Core Support 3 Row (mint, no rust holes)  $150.00
**69 Trunk Lid (Conv, nice)  $175.00
**69 Headlight Bezels  $60.00 pr
**69 Lower Dash (radio area)  (nice)  $35.00
69 C/S Side Moldings (mint, no pits)  $15.00 ea
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $135.00
**69 Cutlass/442 Doors 2 dr Hardtop (mint pair)  $200.00 pr / $110.00 ea
**69-72 Hood Hinges  $40.00 pr
**69-70 "S" Hood Louver Chrome  $25.00 pr
**69-70 "S" Hood Louver Moldiings  $25.00 pr
68-72 Windshield Molding Sets  $45.00 set                                 
68-72 Fastback Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set
**69-72 Floor Shift Steering Column (very good)  $95.00
69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
**69 RH Fender (small nickel sized hole)  $200.00
**69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $55.00 ea
69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $25.00 ea

70 Cutlass/442
**70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
**70 Std Auto console neutral safety switch w/bracket  $65.00
70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
**70 FLAT Fender RH (small metal patch panel installed nice)  $300.00 
70 Cutlass Supreme Door Panels (black mint) 4 for $100.00
**70 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
**70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (excellent)  $115.00
70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
70-72 455 Std. Iron intake manifold (auto cars)  $55.00
70-72 Std. Auto Console Shift Lens  (repro)  $23.00 ea
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea             
70 F-85 Horn Button (cheap style wheel, excellent)  $10.00
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00                                    
69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00                                
**69-70 "S" Hood Chrome Vents  $25.00 pr                                        
**69-70 "S" Hood Vent Moldings  $25.00 pr
**70 "S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr         
**70 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $90.00                                  
**70-72 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
**70-72 RH Fender (has small patch panel)   $185.00
70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens   $17.00 ea
70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens  $23.00 ea

71 Cutlass/442
**70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
**70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
**71-72 Power Window Switches (nice)  $25.00 (4) button,  $10.00 singles
**71-72 Fender RH (small metal patch in bottom)  $185.00
71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
**71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
**70-72 C/S LH/RH Side Glass  $25.00 ea 
**71 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr

72 Cutlass/442
**70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
**70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
**71-72 Power Window Switches (nice)  $25.00 (4) button,  $10.00 singles
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00                                  
**71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
**72 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr            

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1065
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