To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1024


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, December 22 1997      Volume 01 : Number 1024



Re: 69 442
Re: Rear coil springs, '78 Delta
Holiday list departure
Re[2]: teaching opportunities
Re: 70 Cutlass Dual Exhaust Conversion
Re: Transmission problems
Re: Posi question...
Re: Simple Pleasures
Re: 70 Cutlass Dual Exhaust Conversion
A Christmas Story (or My Father's Olds)
Re: Tranny stuck in drive!!
Re: Olds Video review
Re: need keys!
Re: Power Brake booster help
Manifolds
Re: UNBOUNCE: '70 442 H*lp
Re: Simple Pleasures
Coincidence?
Re: 1968-69 RAM AIR SET UP
Re: need keys!
Neat REOlds Museum Events
Signing off for the Holidays!
Re: Simple Pleasures
Re: Ram Air, but not on an A-Body
Re: Simple Pleasures
Re: Signing off for the Holidays!
Re: Ram Air, but not on an A-Body
Picture from photo shoot
MI swap meet
Re: Picture from photo shoot
(no subject)
Re: MI swap meet
Olds Centennial video(s) arrived!
Vacuum Breaks
Re: '67 and '68 muffler systems/suppliers
Light Bulbs
Re: Rear coil springs, '78 Delta
Re: Coincidence?
Re: need keys!
Olds article in Restoration Review
Re: Light Bulbs
(longish reply) Re: need keys!
RE: MI swap meet
Re: 69 442
Re: 69 442
Holiday away
Re: Olds Centennial video(s) arrived - I made the Video!
weatherstripping
Re: weatherstripping
Alternators

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 08:28:47 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 69 442

On Mon, 22 Dec 1997, MROTHE wrote:
> > space with the face-plate.  I have seen custom radio face-plates for
mustangs > > and other cars to make new radios look original.  Do they do that
for 442's? > new again.  As far as making a "newer" radio to fit, it is
available. > Don't remember the name of the companies, but there are a couple.
One > of the radio places makes kenwood guts fit in a standard 69 cutlass >
radio box, it looks like a 69 factory job, until you turn it on.

The Classic Car Radio company is one place that does this. They have a
web site (don't have the address but I found it a while ago by searching
AltaVista) that shows their offerings. Looked pretty good to me.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 07:50:22 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Rear coil springs, '78 Delta

I couldn't give you exact match of that, but, I had extra high lift
springs and shocks put into my 78 Olds Delta 88 Royale, 2 door, and I
thought it looked pretty damn mean, especially with BF-Goodrich tires
on Cutlass Rally's....

1977 Olds Cutlass 350 4bbl
1978 Olds Delta 88 Royale 350 4bbl


> On 20 Dec 1997 mjones@gleep.com wrote:
> > The rear of my '78 Delta is sagging kind of noticably, so I want to
> > replace the original rear springs.  But I wish to replace them with a
> > pair of rear springs from a '90 9C1, which would give the car a little
> > bit of a rake.  Does anybody have any pictures of any '77-85 B-bodies
> > that have a rake of 2 or so inches?  I want to know how this looks
> > before I go out and purchase the springs (BTW, they are pn 482086, $46
> > each from Dal Lambert Buick I believe)
>
> Mine has a bit of a rake but it's because the front springs have
> sagged! And of course it's a 4-door. I have never seen one of these
> with the kind of stance you describe but I can't imagine it would
> look too bad. Those prices intrigue me though... I looked into front
> springs for mine and the wholesale prices (in worthless Canadian $)
> from GM were in the $100-$120 range each. I could get a pair of
> aftermarket (TRW I'd guess) for $150 from my parts store friend,
> which list for about $220. Are front springs
> *that* much more pricey, even accounting for the exchange rate?
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia,
> Canada
>
>

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 09:01:57 -0500
From: Mark Cornea <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: Holiday list departure

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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              Olds list,

                              Due to the Holidays, I will temporarily be
off the list until 1/5.  If you need to send me E-mail please use
<drdecal442@aol.com>.  Thanks to all for stopping by and visiting at the
100th anniversary, and thanks again for  purchasing my catalog and
restoration decals, See you in 1998. Have a safe and happy Holiday.


- --------------438AC762D1EAF51222EC2EC7
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<HTML>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Olds list,

<P>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Due to the Holidays, I will temporarily be off the list until
1/5.&nbsp; If you need to send me E-mail please use &lt;<B><I><FONT
COLOR="ªFF0000">drdecal442@aol.com</FONT></I></B>>.&nbsp; Thanks to all for
stopping by and visiting at the 100th anniversary, and thanks again for&nbsp;
purchasing my catalog and restoration decals, See you in 1998. Have a safe and
happy Holiday. <BR>&nbsp;</HTML>

- --------------438AC762D1EAF51222EC2EC7--

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       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
          Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 W30 stick ~ Red (of course)

                              <mailto:drdecal442@aol.com>
                              <mailto:mcornea@gw.ford.com>

            Visit <http://members.aol.com/drdecal442/mcr.html>

            OCAª 4903
           OPCª 14
       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

- --------------11E291CD3C6C650356F62A5A--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 97 09:20:58 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: teaching opportunities

Are .080 over pistons hard to come by?

     Actually, I'm thinking it's the 0.080 over _cylinders_ that are hard
     to come by!   ;-)

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 09:19:41 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 70 Cutlass Dual Exhaust Conversion

>> 1. What are my options for conversion kits.
>
>You can go get the entire dual exhaust piping/mufflers/clamps/hangars
>for a stock dual exhaust with straight tailpipes (for the tips) from
>NAPA or some other parts store.  It should bolt right up (See ª3 also)

I found the restoration places to be all about the same price as each
other, but cheaper than NAPA and such. Yes, the pipes are still produced by
Walker et al.

>> 2. Will the existing Manifolds work with a Conversion Kit.
>>
>They should.  But if you snap off any bolts it will double your fun.
>Plus, you will need to block off the cross-over pipe inlet on the
>passenger side manifold.  You could just buy some dual exhaust
>manifolds, but these seem a little pricey.

For big-blocks, yes; there were no dual-exhaust-specific exhaust manifolds
for the small-block (no, not even for the W-31), and the RH Big-block
dual-exhaust manifolds will not fit. Use your existing manifolds with a cap
over the extra outlet (a pipe can be crimped neatly for that purpose, if
you can't find a cap).

Just order the pipes for a normal small-block dual-exhaust system, and get
a cap for the manifold; the replacement exhaust will never know that it is
performing a "conversion."

>> 3. What are the "normal" problems encountered with this conversion.
>>
>Driver's side exhaust pipe to manifold installation for one.  Things
>could get tight in here, plus the bolt pattern isn't real condusive to
>straight-on bolt tightening/loosening.  Passenger side is a breeze in
>comparison.

Hmmm, I had no troubles on my big-block stock-style dual exhaust; I imagine
that the small-block would have even more room.

Ditto what Mike said about the exhaust hangers
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 09:26:06 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Transmission problems

>Okay guys, here's one for you.  My '84 Cutlass (V6-THM-250) acts very
>stange in cold weather.  When I first start it up in the morning, it will
>go backwards fine, but has problems sometimes in drive.  I may start it up,
>back up and pull out of my parking space, and then stop at the end of the
>block.  When I step on the gas to go, the car will act like it's in
>neutral.  To get it going again, I have to put it in reverse until it
>catches then back to drive and everything is fine.  It may do this to me
>twice when the weather is colder.  No problems the rest of the day.

If I were you, I'd be asking Santa for a transmission rebuild kit...

First, though, check the fluid level, and if that's not a problem, do a
complete tranny flush and a filter change (or better yet, pay someone else
to do it; that's one of those messy jobs I'll gladly farm out to somebody
at the local quik-lube joint. Hey, if they mess it up, then *they* can pay
for the new tranny that you needed anyway... ;)

>Problem number 2 has to do with the speedometer, which is not working.  I
>traced the cable (2 part) back to the transmission.  I can remove if from
>the tranny and spin it and the speedo moves, so does that mean I need a new
>gear inside the tranny?  If so, how do you get it out?  Is this a dealer
>only part?

Just make sure that it's not simply the tip of the cable that's broken off.
Sometimes just the inner cable is replaceable; all you do is remove the
upper connector, pull out the old cable, and drop in the new one. Costs
less than $20 at the dealer.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 09:21:04 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Posi question...

>What is the trunk code for Posi Reared 87 Cutli?

The perennial posi code for GM has usually been "G80"; I'd bet it's the
same for yours.

>With posi, does the rear hum at cruising speeds?

Depends on what you've eaten...
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 09:14:13 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Simple Pleasures

>>Funny how little things can make you happy... some will recall my
>ongoing
>>battle with finding burned out or missing bulbs on the Delta. Seemed
>like
>>just about every bulb was shot in the thing. I finally got all of the
>>inside lights working a while ago
>
>Greg, I know what you mean. I just got all the interior lights working
 [snip]
>except for the rear quarter lights (in conv. armrest). The manual
>called for 212 but the only 212's I could find were -1s or dash 2s and
>they looked nothing like what I was after. I even tried the Olds

I used the 212-1 bulbs in the courtesy lights on the inner rear sail panels
of my SX, with no problems. They are thinner than the old bulbs, and they
have little loops on the ends, but the metal caps are the right diameter
and distance apart, so they fit right in, and seem to be about the same
candlepower as the old 212's (the 211's were double the candlepower of the
212's; I think these bulbs are meant to cover both applications, and thus
went with the lower candlepower as a compromise. I think the "212-1"
designation means that they're meant to cover both, but primarily replace
the 212's).

Now, the bulb I am desperately searching for is a 563 (map light in the
underside of the dash and mirror). I tried the 561's which are readily
available, but they seem a LOT brighter and hotter than the old 563 I
scavenged off a spare dash. These bulbs are tubular, with little loops at
either end that hook over the spring terminals in the light housing. There
is no reflector in the dash map light, but the light in my mirror has a
little clip-on metal reflector that directs light downward. I'd use the
brighter 561's, but I'm afraid the extra heat would melt these fixtures.
Any sources for these, or do I start hunting the junkyards?

BTW, the old 563's were gummed up with *some* kind of blackish gooey stuff;
electrical cleaner did very little to it, but windex washed it all away.
This was *all over* the dash-mounted map light; what could it have been?

>to keep opening the doors to see the results of my handiwork. Like you
>say, "simple pleasures".
>Doc Bob can probaly relate to your post too.

Boy, can I! I look for reasons just to take the SX out for drives at
night... :)
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 97 09:40:19 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: 70 Cutlass Dual Exhaust Conversion

1. What are my options for conversion kits.

     Since dual exhaust was a factory option, you simply need to go to your
     auto parts store of choice and get all the necessary parts.  I seem to
     recall that the factory single exhaust piping is common with one side
     of the dual system (it's been so long since I owned a single exhaust
     A-body that I can't remember which side the single system is mounted
     on!).

2. Will the existing Manifolds work with a Conversion Kit.

     Yes, BUT...I'm assuming here that the car has a 350.  There is a
     crossover pipe which runs from one exhaust manifold to the other under
     the oil pan, resulting in one of the manifolds having two outlets.
     The factory dual system used this same manifold with a cap on the
     unused outlet.  This cap is apparently no longer available, however
     any exhaust shop can fabricate one by using the bolt flange from the
     crossover pipe and welding a piece of sheet steel over the hole.  The
     other manifold is also common with either the single or dual systems.

3. What are the "normal" problems encountered with this conversion.

     If you are planning to use the cutout bumper, you will need to
     tailpipes for a 442 as opposed to a Cutlass.  The normal Cutlass pipes
     had downturned tips which will not line up with the bumper.  The
     cutout bumper also used unique tailpipe hangers with keep the pipes
     lined up with the cutouts.  While the correct hangers are not
     available, I believe the repro parts vendors (Fusick, Year One, etc.)
     sell replacement hangers which work but don't look original.

     Hope this helps.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 97 09:20:13 -0500
From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Subject: A Christmas Story (or My Father's Olds)

Been watching My collection of holiday specials and movies and remebered
this classic line from "A Christams Story" (Red Rider BB Gun Story)

Narrator - "Some kids dads were Prodestants, some were Catholic, my dad was
an Oldsmobile man."

My Dad's former Oldsmobiles
1951 88 4 door (custom leather interior installed in Panama)
1958 88 4 door
1965? Jetstar 88 4 door
1974 Delta 88 4 door
(Took my drivers test in it, what a barge to parallel park)
1986 Cutlass Supreme Coupe

Most of these cars were my mother's main transportation and barely had 70k
when traded in.  The 74 Delta 88 didn't have 60k in 12 years of service!
It was used by the dealership for a year as a rental/loaner.  The '86
Cutlass has 53k now and except for paint chips and a discolored floor mat
or two, is right the way it was delivered: 307, 4speed auto, F41
suspension, posi rear, wire wheel covers, bench seat, white w/ blue landau
top & blue interior and NO rear defroster (strange being sold in MD).  The
engine is still tight and moves pretty darn good for the rear in it which I
think is a 2.42 or somethin like that.  I think all the cars were garage
kept, I know the Jetstar up were.  Dad had a short lapse when he bought a
'61 chevy and traded it in on the Jetstar.  He said the Chevy was nothin
but problems.

Looks like I come from a deep Oldsmobile past.  Happy holidays and everyone
be safe driving around this season.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 97 09:50:40 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Tranny stuck in drive!!

Aaron D Eoff wrote:

Could anyone tell me what's going on. Is something frozen in the
transmission or what?
Need a response ASAP so i can get it fixed before the long holiday weekends.

     Well, it appears that your shift cable has gone belly up.  This
     happened to me years ago on my first 68 442.  The cable is made up of
     a multi-strand wire cable sliding inside a Teflon sleeve.  Over time
     the cable will wear on the sleeve (especially at bends), causing the
     Teflon to wear away and then abrading the wire cable.  Eventually
     strands of the cable will break and stick out, causing the binding
     you've experienced.  The only solution is to replace the cable.

     When this happened on my 68, I was in college and the car was my only
     transportation.  In order to drive to the Olds dealership to get a new
     cable (this was so long ago that they were still available at the
     parts counter), I had to disconnect the cable from the transmission,
     have a friend sit in the car with his foot on the brake, and crawl
     underneath to move the transmission lever by hand.  Not exactly the
     safest thing to do!  Kids, do not try this at home!!

     Note that this also happens to throttle cables, which will cause the
     throttle to stick.  I've had the throttle cable bind on both my 70
     W-30 and my crewcab dually, so I now replace the cable at the
     slightest indication of binding.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30





------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 10:04:00 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Video review

>RC, I'm the one working on the Olds list video......the video I'm working
on ONLY SPOTLIGHTS THE CARS!>

Cool!  That's more like it!


>This is a slow process, because I can only work on it  "after hours".>

I understand.


< I'll let everyone know when it's completed.>

Please do, I'm interested in getting a copy.


>There's no narration, every clip is set to music.  16 car related
songs....>

Great idea!



Take your time and do it right, only hurry!  :)

Thanks for letting me know.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 10:15:27 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: need keys!

Lloyd Ferguson wrote:

> >trunk sticker, and the VIN ª is 2G3AK47A6C2389539.  Can anyone tell me
> >something from this number?  Thanks.

I forgot all about it, and I shouldn't have...  National Car Rental,
when a customer locks the keys in the car, or loses the keys has a
locksmith cut keys from the Vin Number.  The one I talked to uses a
dealer database, but I have no clue as to how far back it goes....  I
just know they do.  Hope this helps...
- --
                 Jerry Christopher
     ___        HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
 ___/.o \__,      1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
_=O------O=__________It ain't my father's Oldsmobile_______

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 10:09:47 EST
From: J2ROCKET <J2ROCKET@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Power Brake booster help

   hello Robert,  the Bendix Treadle Vac has no full mark on the dipstick
because these units were universal power brake assemblys made to be mounted
level "on the firewall" or under the "toe pan" area of the floor at about 45
degrees, as your 55 Olds is. This unit was used by just about all U.S.
companys as well as mercedes from 1953 to 1960. You simply fill it with fluid
through the dipstick. If you see about a half an inch on the stick, thats ok.
The level is not critical.
  About your distributor, it's true, not much is made in the way of upgrades
for the older Delco dist. You can install a 1956 to 1964 Delco window cap
dist. and convert to any type of ign. system you want, although I suggest just
installing Mallory contact points for ease of repairing a problem if out on
the road, It seems like everyone I've known over the years, that when an
aftermarket ign. system has had a failure, that the parts are no longer
readily availible, or you must convert to yet another version of the same
thing. Good luck.             J2 ROCKET
     57 Olds Super 88  J2 engine   ( Delco Moraine) brake booster
     55 Olds Super 88  Tri Carb     (Bendix Treadle Vac)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 07:26:42 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Manifolds

     Bob Barry wrote that the RH dual exhaust big block manifold
would not fit a small block because of oil filter adapter
interference, but that the LH side might fit. It doesn't! I tried it
before....it hits the starter!

===
John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland
Read about the stuff at HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

65 Delta 88 2dr    70 Cutlass S 2dr       72 Cutlass conv
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31       72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr   70 442 W30 conv        72 442 W30 conv
70 Cutlass S 2dr   71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 97 10:43:08 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: '70 442 H*lp

Edwin Burger asked:

I'm prepping my 70 442 for paint, and I noticed that the body piece
between the two sections of the grille needs to be replaced.

     Do you mean the tongue on the front of the hood, which is
     perfectly designed to allow you to impale your skull every time
     you do something under the hood?

Does anyone have one for sale?  I do not know it needs to come from a
'70.

     I'm afraid so.  This is a 1970-unique part.  69s had a similar
     tongue, but it is shorter and thus won't interchange.

I imagine it does have to come froma 442 though, so the 442 holes for
the 442 emblem will like up.

     Actually, they are all the same.  This is a pot metal cast part
     and the indentations for the "442" emblem holes are cast into
     the back.  If you get one off of a non-442, you simply need to
     drill out the holes.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 97 10:59:07 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Simple Pleasures

Greg Beaulieu wrote:

Funny how replacing a bulb, tightening a screw or fixing a rattle can be
so satisfying!

     Greg,

     And I thought I was the only one who felt that way.

     There's probably some involved psychological explanation, but  you are
     correct - there's no feeling like the instant gratification you get
     when you take something that doesn't work and make it work.  I've
     often thought that this is one of the primary reasons why I so enjoy
     working on the cars.

     The lightbulb phenomena is one I've felt numerous times.  Usually I'll
     buy a car in significantly less than top condition.  A weekend
     afternoon spent replacing bulbs and fuses (and ripping out the miles
     of lamp cord that always seem to be hanging from the underside of the
     dash) is usually all it takes to make a major improvement in the
     functionality of the new acquisition.  The feeling of satisfaction
     that comes from this has always surprised me too.  I've often wondered
     if it has something to do with making a dramatic improvement for what
     seems like a minimal effort.

     My 70 W-30 is a prime example.  When I got the car, most of the
     electrical stuff didn't work, what appeared to be a whole 'nother
     wiring harness was hanging down from under the dash, the O.A.I. air
     cleaner assembly was missing, and the car had corroded aluminum slot
     mags with bald tires.  Needless to say, the wiring got fixed, bulbs
     replaced, O.A.I. setup from the basement installed, and SSIIIs with
     BFG T/As installed in short order.  In addition, the prior owner had
     installed yellow shag carpeting in the (Sebring Yellow) car.  I
     removed that quickly also, and was pleasantly surprised to find the
     original carpeting in good condition underneath!  What an improvement!

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 97 11:01:40 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Coincidence?


     The spellchecker in cc:Mail suggests "Searing" for "Sebring" (as in
     Sebring Yellow).  I wonder if this is supposed to be a commentary on
     the brightness of that paint?  ;-)

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30 (with searing Sebring Yellow paint)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 10:50:58 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Re: 1968-69 RAM AIR SET UP

Who did you find??? How much??? I'm officially responding with an
inquiry!!!


>I have found a source  for aftermarket under bumper scoops that are exact
>repo's of 1969 scoops. There is a difference between 68 & 69 scoops but
these
>will work on any 68-72 Olds A body.

>If anyone looking for additional info on this type of system feel free to
>respond with inquiry.

Let me know!

Thanx!

Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 08:49:38 -0800
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: need keys!

I can't help you with the door key, but I can say that the ignition key
shouldn't have anything to do with the door key.  I can't see how they could
cut an ignition key from a door lock cylinder.  To get at the ignition key
you'll need a steering wheel puller and a lock plate compressor.  Remove wheel,
compress lock plate, remove snap ring, pull out the turn signal assembly and
let it dangle (don't disconnect it, the wires may fall back down and you'll
lose them).  Remove the screw holding in the lock cylinder and remove.  It'd
probably be easier to just bring a replacement cylinder, since they're only
about $15, and I locksmith would charge at least that to make a new key.

Kathy Gerschutz wrote:

> out the garage space) within two days of sale.  I contacted the local
> dealership, and they said if I bring them the door look, the can make a
> door key and then an ignition key from that.  I think the door lock just

- --
Tom Lentz, tlentz@ior.com                        '84 Hurst/Olds
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz                       '78 Cutlass Supreme
Network Admin, CPM Corp, Spokane, WA.            '78 Chev 1/2ton (Olds 350)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 11:54:18 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Neat REOlds Museum Events

Browsing the Olds page, I happened across the REOlds Museum link; neat
page, but didn't know if these events had been mentioned here before:

*******************************************
1998 Events
DATEEVENT

February
15Daytona 500 Tailgate Party (BIG TV, Surround Sound, No Booze,
Munchies) "Olds Goes Racing: Exhibit Opens

May
2 & 3"Cars On The Island", Grand Ledge Victorian Festival

25Indy 500 Tailgate Party (BIG TV, Surround Sound, No Booze,
Munchies) & Hurst/Olds 30th Birthday Party

31Trucks At The REO
********************************************

That "Olds Goes Racing" exhibit sounds like it will be worth seeing; anyone
know what's going to be in it?

BTW, the link to these events and more can be found at:

http://www.reolds.com/events.html

Enjoy!
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 11:05:24 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Signing off for the Holidays!

Hey!

I'm signing off for the Holidays...I'll really get to work on the 68 next
week!

Happy Holidays Everybody...See Ya Next Year!

Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 12:09:44 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Simple Pleasures

Padavano.Joe wrote:
>In addition, the prior owner had installed yellow shag carpeting in the
(Sebring Yellow) car.  I removed that quickly also, and was pleasantly 
surprised
to find the original carpeting in good condition underneath!

To put yellow shag in anything indicates somebody didn't like that car.
For the original to be underneath and in good condition indicates they
HATED it for some reason.  Some people have no appreciation for a fine
automobile.  Congrats on the medical aid program Joe.  Have a good
holiday season!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 09:08:46 -0800
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Ram Air, but not on an A-Body

Yeah, I've seen the Buick guys do something like this using a heater
register and some dryer ducting.  They only have to get their air up to
their turbocharger, but it shouldn't be too hard to adapt it to a
carburetor.  Also, they cut their factory airdam to fit the scoops in.
The Buick airdam is plentiful and still available from the dealer, the
only Olds airdam is the '83/'84 H/O ones which are as rare as hens teeth,
bordering on unobtainium status.  If I hear of anyone cutting holes in
their H/O airdam, I'm going to have to come down and speak with them
personally, and I'll bring my friend, Guido.  Lauren Engineering makes a
repro airdam for about $200 that would be a good candidate for hacking
up.  The DIY ram-air photos and some instructions can be found on the
Buick turbo web page at http://ni.umd.edu/gnttype/www in the tech section
under "Engine and Mechanical".

Jerry Christopher wrote:

> Has anybody ever attempted, or seen someone that attempted a "Ram Air"
> system for the G-Bodies?  Not involving cutting the hood?
> --
>                             Jerry Christopher
>      ___        HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
>  ___/.o \__,         1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
> _=O------O=__________It ain't my father's Oldsmobile_______



- --
Tom Lentz, tlentz@ior.com                        '84 Hurst/Olds
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz                       '78 Cutlass Supreme
Network Admin, CPM Corp, Spokane, WA.            '78 Chev 1/2ton (Olds
350)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 13:02:03 -0500
From: "Tracey Monske x4794" <monske@ct.picker.com>
Subject: Re: Simple Pleasures

Please stop sending to me -- take my address off your lists -- stop "Spamming"
me with hundreds of useless to me messages.


On 22 Dec 97 at 12:09, Don Sowers wrote:

> Padavano.Joe wrote:
> >In addition, the prior owner had installed yellow shag carpeting in the
(Sebring Yellow) car.  I removed that quickly also, and was pleasantly 
surprised
to find the original carpeting in good condit> > To put yellow shag in anything
indicates somebody didn't like that car. > For the original to be underneath 
and
in good condition indicates they > HATED it for some reason.  Some people have
no appreciation for a fine > automobile.  Congrats on the medical aid program
Joe.  Have a good > holiday season! >

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 13:02:58 -0500
From: "Tracey Monske x4794" <monske@ct.picker.com>
Subject: Re: Signing off for the Holidays!

Please stop sending to me -- take me of your lists -- stop "Spamming" me with
hundreds of useless to me messages!!!




On 22 Dec 97 at 11:05, Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands wrote:

>
> Hey!
>
> I'm signing off for the Holidays...I'll really get to work on the 68 next
> week!
>
> Happy Holidays Everybody...See Ya Next Year!
>
> Scott Wheeler
> 68 442 Conv
> Dallas
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 13:03:43 -0500
From: "Tracey Monske x4794" <monske@ct.picker.com>
Subject: Re: Ram Air, but not on an A-Body

Please stop sending to me -- take me off your lists -- stop "Spamming" me with
hundreds of useless to me messages!!!




On 22 Dec 97 at 9:08, Tom Lentz wrote:

> Yeah, I've seen the Buick guys do something like this using a heater
> register and some dryer ducting.  They only have to get their air up to
> their turbocharger, but it shouldn't be too hard to adapt it to a
> carburetor.  Also, they cut their factory airdam to fit the scoops in.
> The Buick airdam is plentiful and still available from the dealer, the
> only Olds airdam is the '83/'84 H/O ones which are as rare as hens teeth,
> bordering on unobtainium status.  If I hear of anyone cutting holes in
> their H/O airdam, I'm going to have to come down and speak with them
> personally, and I'll bring my friend, Guido.  Lauren Engineering makes a
> repro airdam for about $200 that would be a good candidate for hacking
> up.  The DIY ram-air photos and some instructions can be found on the
> Buick turbo web page at http://ni.umd.edu/gnttype/www in the tech section
> under "Engine and Mechanical".
>
> Jerry Christopher wrote:
>
> > Has anybody ever attempted, or seen someone that attempted a "Ram Air"
> > system for the G-Bodies?  Not involving cutting the hood?
> > --
> >                             Jerry Christopher
> >      ___        HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
> >  ___/.o \__,         1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
> > _=O------O=__________It ain't my father's Oldsmobile_______
>
>
>
> --
> Tom Lentz, tlentz@ior.com                        '84 Hurst/Olds
> http://www.ior.com/~tlentz                       '78 Cutlass Supreme
> Network Admin, CPM Corp, Spokane, WA.            '78 Chev 1/2ton (Olds
> 350)
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 13:44:58 EST
From: ANTIQ OLDS <ANTIQOLDS@aol.com>
Subject: Picture from photo shoot

  Got my picture in the mail today from Oldsmobile!!


    For those of you who participated in the 100 photo shoot at Francis Park
on Thursday morning and gave them you name and address you shud be getting a
picture. I had given up on getting anything from that and had no idea you to
contact, but they came thru, A nice large photo of the "100" underlined by a
row of later model Oldsmobiles.

Everett  OCAª1961   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 13:49:59 -0500
From: Mark Cornea <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: MI swap meet

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
- --------------A10E857CFAE87771C3581FCA
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit


    Olds fans,

                        Detroit area people, there is a BIG swap meet at
the Michigan State Fair grounds on January 3rd and 4th. This is an "all
make" swap meet with some good buys. I will be set up in building ª3,
stop by.

- --------------A10E857CFAE87771C3581FCA
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; name=".csignature"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline; filename=".csignature"

       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
          Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 W30 stick ~ Red (of course)

                              <mailto:drdecal442@aol.com>
                              <mailto:mcornea@gw.ford.com>

            Visit <http://members.aol.com/drdecal442/mcr.html>

            OCAª 4903
           OPCª 14
       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

- --------------A10E857CFAE87771C3581FCA--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 13:56:35 -0500
From: "Tracey Monske x4794" <monske@ct.picker.com>
Subject: Re: Picture from photo shoot

Please stop sending to me -- Take me off your list -- stop "Spamming" me --
forget this address -- GO AWAY!!!



On 22 Dec 97 at 13:44, ANTIQ OLDS wrote:

>   Got my picture in the mail today from Oldsmobile!!
>
>
>     For those of you who participated in the 100 photo shoot at Francis Park
> on Thursday morning and gave them you name and address you shud be getting a
> picture. I had given up on getting anything from that and had no idea you to
> contact, but they came thru, A nice large photo of the "100" underlined by a
> row of later model Oldsmobiles.
>
> Everett  OCAª1961   1961 Starfire
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 14:06:47 -0500
From: Mark Cornea <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: (no subject)

unsubscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 14:06:31 -0500
From: "Tracey Monske x4794" <monske@ct.picker.com>
Subject: Re: MI swap meet

Please stop "Spamming" me with useless to me e-mails -- This morning there were
150 messages from your Oldsmobile group -- love the car -- hate the group --
Please take my address off your list!!!


On 22 Dec 97 at 13:49, Mark Cornea wrote:

>
>     Olds fans,
>
>                         Detroit area people, there is a BIG swap meet at
> the Michigan State Fair grounds on January 3rd and 4th. This is an "all
> make" swap meet with some good buys. I will be set up in building ª3,
> stop by.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 14:14:30 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Olds Centennial video(s) arrived!

Just received mine last week. Had been waiting about a month. Both are pretty
nice. After seeing the caravan, I wish I would have forced myself to get up
and take part in the caravan!! Dang! The history tape is light in some areas,
but they could have filled a six hour tape and had material left over!
- --
David Brown              Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com      OR     http://www.en.com/users/thall
    http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
  http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/zip/oldsfaq4.zip

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 16:13:20 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Vacuum Breaks

I suspect I have a problem with the choke vacuum break on the Delta. When
you start it from cold, it catches readily enough, but will chug for a
few seconds until something (vacuum I suspect) takes over and then it
settles into a fast idle. In really cold weather, though, it doesn't do
that as readily and you have to give it a little gas as soon as it starts
to keep it from dying. Once it goes into fast idle it's fine from then on.

I looked in my manual and discovered the 4-bbl carb has 2 vacuum breaks
for some reason. I was just going to order the replacement and put it on
but I don't want to buy 2 if I only need one. How can I check these to
determine which is at fault? I don't have a vacuum pump if that makes any
difference. Hopefully there's an easy way to check. Starting it when cold
and then running around to the passenger side to visually inspect doesn't
seem likely to be successful.  Any ideas?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 97 15:08 EST
From: turley@symplex.com (Mike Turley)
Subject: Re: '67 and '68 muffler systems/suppliers

CoupeKing,

The '66 and '67 exhaust systems are identical.  If you want the _best_
remanufactured system for your '67 then you need to get a hold of
Walt Vallelunga @ (810) 739-8255.

He makes the best "correct" 67 exhaust.  Chambered tail pipes w/ stainless
bezels (correct for 67 442), and they fit.  He also makes the exhaust pipes.
So all you would need is a some mufflers of correct dimensions.

They are kind of pricey, 300.00 for tail pipes, 450.00 for exhaust and tail
pipes.  If you are going for "correct" these are the ones to get.

Mike Turley
turley@symplex.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 16:17:04 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Light Bulbs

It seems there are a few bulbs that have gone missing in action: the 211,
the 563, the 756 used in the Delta's dash, maybe some others. I don't
suppose anyone has any light to shed (sorry) on whether these are still
around somewhere?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 14:23:59 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Rear coil springs, '78 Delta

Putting in new rear springs might give you that rake you are looking for. I
had a slight forward (reverse) rake when I put heavy duty springs on the
front as well. You might also consider putting 70 series tires up front, 75
series out back. I've got 70 215's up front, 75 225's out back. A bit of a
rake. The larger tires out back look pretty good! Handling has changed a bit.
- --
David Brown              Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com      OR     http://www.en.com/users/thall
    http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
  http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/zip/oldsfaq4.zip

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 11:45:22 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Coincidence?

- -----Original Message-----
From: Padavano.Joe <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, December 22, 1997 11:06 AM
Subject: Coincidence?


>     The spellchecker in cc:Mail suggests "Searing" for "Sebring" (as
in
>     Sebring Yellow).  I wonder if this is supposed to be a
commentary on
>     the brightness of that paint?  ;-)

The spell checker in MsWord 7.0 replaces Chrysler with Chiseler. I
wonder what this is a commentary on? :-)
You really have to be careful if you have it on "correct as you type",
especially if you're writing a letter to Chrysler Purchasing, (as a
supplier).

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S convertible
OCAª 29770
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 13:41:49 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: need keys!

> >I am probably going to buy a 82 Cutlass Calais at an auction, and there are
> >no keys for it.

Check local mechanics.  Snap-On makes a "Grand Master Lock Pick Set," an
inclusive set of "jiggler" type lock picks.  I've had excellent luck
with them for GM ign. locks of that vintage, but poor results for the
doors.  They take a lot of practice and getting used to.  If a local
mechanic has a set, he (or she) may be of assistance to you.  Seems to
me the set costed around $250 a couple years ago.  If I had a good
criminal mind, they'd have been able to pay for themselves over and
over.  Alas, I don't, and I have yet to get much of a return--To date
something like a cold pack of Bud Light, a $5, and a pizza I think are
my net earnings so far.

               Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
        Sidney Montana

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 14:40:24 -0800
From: Darrin Johnson <xdarrinj@dpcmail.itg.ti.com>
Subject: Olds article in Restoration Review

- --BeyondBoundary_1_Mon_Dec_22_14:40:25_1997__29
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit

I just happened to notice that Year One's Restoration Review has a cover story
on Olds performance options. Goto http://www.yearone.com/ and click on
restoration review.

Darrin Johnson
Wylie, Texas
1972 Cutlass Convertible

- --BeyondBoundary_1_Mon_Dec_22_14:40:25_1997__29
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: X-UUENCODE
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- --BeyondBoundary_1_Mon_Dec_22_14:40:25_1997__29--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 14:14:45 -0700
From: Tim Rudolph <trudolph@frii.com>
Subject: Re: Light Bulbs

At 04:17 PM 12/22/97 -0400, you wrote:
>
>It seems there are a few bulbs that have gone missing in action: the 211,
>the 563, the 756 used in the Delta's dash, maybe some others. I don't
>suppose anyone has any light to shed (sorry) on whether these are still
>around somewhere?
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

Well,  USA Parts Supply (www.usapartssupply.com) carries some light bulbs
and they have the 756, and a 211-2 (not sure what the -2 means), but no
sign of a 563 anywhere.

Tim Rudolph
trudolph@frii.com
'69 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 14:29:32 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: (longish reply) Re: need keys!

> I am probably going to buy a 82 Cutlass Calais at an
> auction, and there are no keys for it. [...] I contacted
> the local dealership, and they said if I bring them the
> door look, the can make a door key and then an
> ignition key from that.

Really? I didn't know there was a connection between the door
code and the ignition code. If so, I assume the _dealer_ assumes
that no one has changed the door locks or ignition switch...

> I think the door lock just clips in and out, but does anyone
> know how to take off the door panel?

Assuming the same key operates the doors and trunk, it might
be easier for you to take the trunk cylinder out instead. You can
still open and close it without the cylinder if you have a long
screwdriver...

Anyhow, the usual door panel removal goes something like this:

1) Remove anything obviously screwed on to the interior panel:
pull handles, armrest, courtesy lamp lenses. Free-standing
pull straps may have screws under the caps at either end;
either slide the entire plastic cap off (slide away from the handle)
or, for cast caps with decorative inserts, carefully pry the insert
out with a small screwdriver to reveal the screw head underneath.

2) If car has manual window cranks, pop the release C-clip out
with a crank handle removal tool ($5-$7) and remove handle.

3) Unsnap door panel from door by prying out plastic retainer pins
around perimeter of the door. There is a fork-shaped pry tool you
can buy for this; a large flat-blade screwdriver may work but you
risk ripping the retainer heads out of the cardboard panel backing.

4) Lift door panel up to release top edge from window molding.
It's helpful (but not required) to wind window glass down first.

(Depending on how much of a gap has now opened up, you may
or may not need to do the following disassembly in order to reach
the door lock.)

5) If outside mirror joystick control is mounted in door, release
the cable from behind the door panel. It will be held into its
metal collar by either a little hex-key (Allen key) setscrew or
a U-shaped wire bail. Loosen the setscrew or pull out the ends
of the wire bail and the joystick assembly and cable will slide
out of its collar.

6) If car has power windows and/or locks, unscrew the light-blue
retainer caps on the wiring connectors, then pull the connectors
straight off the backs of the switch panels. Be careful of hot wires
behind the door lock panel if trying to pry its connector off with a
screwdriver.

7) Peel back the plastic or tarpaper weathershield from the door
to reveal the access hole for the door lock cylinder.

8) You need to disconnect the actuator rod where it connects to
the end of the lock cylinder arm. The designs vary but most of
them use a clip attached to the end of the cylinder arm which
snaps around the rod to hold it in; unclip it from the rod, and
the rod can then be pulled out of the hole in the cylinder arm.
Squint at it with a flashlight and you'll see what I mean.

9) Pry out the large slide retainer clip which holds the cylinder
into the door. This requires a large flat-blade screwdriver to pry
on it, after which it will suddenly pop free with a loud bang and
go rocketing into the depths of the door. Watch out for sharp
screws dropped down the same way by assembly line workers
when fumbling around in the dark trying to retrieve the clip.

Reassembly is the reverse of the above.  :-)  The light-blue
retainer buttons for the electrical connectors snap straight
on; you turn them only when removing. A little grease on
the big lock retainer clip will help get it back in position.

> Or does anyone know of a better alternative then doing
> this to get the car out of there?

Can you find a cheap way to have it towed instead? That way
you won't have a deadline hanging over your head while you
work on getting the key situation sorted out.

> Also, it has the rear and front sway bars, does this mean
> that it has the F41 (something like that) suspension package?

I would have thought you should be looking for an FE3 badge,
not an F41, but I may be wrong. Presence of a rear anti-sway
bar may mean something, but I think all Cieras have them in
the front.
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 18:29:50 -0500
From: urbanch <urbanch@magi.com>
Subject: RE: MI swap meet

Hey Mark would you mind keeping an eye out for some stuff for me?

- ----------
From: Mark Cornea[SMTP:mcornea@ford.com]
Sent: Monday, December 22, 1997 1:49 PM
To: olds
Subject: MI swap meet


    Olds fans,

                        Detroit area people, there is a BIG swap meet at
the Michigan State Fair grounds on January 3rd and 4th. This is an "all
make" swap meet with some good buys. I will be set up in building ª3,
stop by.

<<File: .txt>>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 20:14:15 -0500
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: 69 442

MROTHE wrote:
>
> > I have a non-related question, my Hurst dual-gate shifter is getting really
> > loose, worn in the shifter itself, so to put it in drive requires moving it
> > past drive, and the play leaves no room for putting it in 1st gear.  Does
> > Hurst make replacement parts, or guarantee their shifters for life?
>
> Mr. Gasket will honor the Hurst Dualgate lifetime guarantee against
> breakage, and will also rebuild it for around $55.  You pay shipping
> both ways.  Now, as far as moving it past drive.....it could be a cable
> stretch, or linkage adjustment problem, not necessarily a worn out
> shifter.  I've personally never seen a wore out dual-gate. Try one of
> the aftermarket restoration places for the cable.  They may have one.

Well, I can attest to the fact that this is most probaly a misadjusted
cable, or it is worn out.  I had one cable that over time had pulled out
of the crimped ferule on the end about 1/8 inch.  This will definately
cause the problem described.  Some advice: don't get the "NOS" cable
from Brothers, it's actually a service replacement part that doesn't fit
well.  Get the replacement part from Year One, it's about $25 cheaper
and fits (and functions) much better.

- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 20:32:19 -0500 (EST)
From: The Sugarmans <sugarman@berkshire.net>
Subject: Re: 69 442

On Mon, 22 Dec 1997, Kurt Heinrich wrote:

> of the crimped ferule on the end about 1/8 inch.  This will definately
> cause the problem described.  Some advice: don't get the "NOS" cable
> from Brothers, it's actually a service replacement part that doesn't fit
> well.  Get the replacement part from Year One, it's about $25 cheaper
> and fits (and functions) much better.
>

The last time I checked, Y-1 did not carry the cable for the '69.  (Cat No
R325 and a phone call last year.)  Their coverage is 70 - 72.

Also, there is alot of slop in the shifter - the pin at the bottom of the
shifter lever or the hole in the shifter lever is worn, so the shifter
lever cable connect point doesn't travel the full range.

On the other hand, maybe the crimp is loose.

Don
(Aaron's dad)

Hey, Aaron, check that out.  :)

sugarman@berkshire.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 20:32:56 EST
From: COUPE KING <COUPEKING@aol.com>
Subject: Holiday away

please unsubscribe for now. I'll be back.
CoupeKing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 19:59:38 -0600
From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Centennial video(s) arrived - I made the Video!

I just received mine tonight.  Man was it great!  I actually made the video in
two spots.  One in the unveiling of the Allero coupe. The other in cruise 
around
Lansing.  You can see my white 68 442 convertible leaving the parking lot
heading out for the cruise.  It is a tight shot head on the car.

My only complaint on the video is ... Too short!  There was a lot of great 
stuff
along the caravan that was not shown.  Also, they really did not show any of 
the
car lots.

- -Dan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 21:12:26 EST
From: DrkSole <DrkSole@aol.com>
Subject: weatherstripping

Has anyone out there installed new weatherstripping before? I've installed
Soft Seal's roof rail kit for my 73, and have run into a few problems, namely
it is impossible to roll the window up with the door closed.  Did I do
something wrong or does is need awhile to take the shape of the glass?
thanks for any help, and sorry I'm bothering you.

DrkSole
73 Cutlass Suprem
67 Delta 88 Custom

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 22:57:01 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: weatherstripping

I replaced the weatherstrip years ago on my '77 (Lemans, but the same
body) and as I recall it was dead-simple. I was using GM parts so it
might be different, but as I recall it just went in with a plastic pin at
either end and some adhesive in the channel along the roof rail. Does
yours hang up somewhere or is it just friction? If it's friction, some
spray silicone lube on the rubber will help a lot.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 23:01:34 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Alternators

Is there any downside to upsizing an alternator? I notice that mine lets
the dash lights dim noticably at night when idling if you have the rear
defroster on along with the heater fan, etc. As soon as you pick up revs
it ups it's output and things get brighter. Maybe it's dying, I dunno, but
I was thinking I might want to replace it with an 80 amp one. Are there
any problems associated with this?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª1024
*********************************
