
oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, January 6 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1044



Converting points to HEI:
Re: Anit-Theft on '73-'77 Cutlass??
Group Hug Needed & Deserved
Re: Engine replacement
Re: 231=> V8
Re: Anit-Theft on '73-'77 Cutlass??
Re: 87 cutlass, odd problem... and 4-4-2 progress
HO Quad 4 exhaust manifold
Info on Alero
Engine Repair Software
Re: brothers
Re: Brake light on
Re: Rear Side Markers
Re: 87 cutlass, odd problem... and 4-4-2 progress
Correction on Engine ID
Re: **VERY IMPORTANT QUESTION**
Can someone help Laura?...(Re: Laura's motor)
Re: DeNovi's parts
Test again....Don't read again!
Re: was Mondello, now Miller
Re: Rear Side Markers
X-Mailer: <PC Eudora Version 1.4b22>
Resotration Parts
Re: FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro
Mime-Version: 1.0
Re: Engine Woes - Reply
OOPS (was Re: **VERY IMPORTANT QUESTION**)
Retirement sales
Re: Group Hug Needed & Deserved
Re: Engine Repair Software
Re[2]: Engine Woes - Reply
Re: 1970 W-32? (and other Q's too)
Mime-Version: 1.0
Re: Engine Repair Software
Re: Converting points to HEI:
My engine number
Re: Engine Repair Software
cancel my subsciption
Re: cc'ing with plate
Re: Engine Repair Software
Re: Info on Alero
Olds Centennial on Motorweek
Re: Info on Alero

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 06:23:58
From: <terrywiles@usa.net>
Subject: Converting points to HEI:

Anyone out there converted their std. points to an HEI system?   Did you use aftermarket parts or swaped stuff?   I am looking at one unit from Crane called the XR700, says that there are only four wires to hook up for the install.   Ignition is not one of my strong points (no pun intended).   This system is $100, and I understand that the reliabilaty factor will be worth the money, but what can I expect in performance?   Any info would be great.



Terry Wiles

'70 Supreme
____________________________________________________________________
Get free e-mail and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 09:15:37 -0500
From: tgstoner@umich.edu
Subject: Re: Anit-Theft on '73-'77 Cutlass??

On Mon, 05 Jan 1998 Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com> wrote:
>> I know that an anti-theft system was offered on some, if not all, of the
>> 1973 thru 1975 Hurst/Oldsmobiles.  Perhaps this explains the listing in
>> Brother's WEB pages.
>
> And just how did this system stack up to the systems in use today?  Was
it a
> pretty "crude" setup?  What was included in this anti-theft system?  And
> would something like that either be good for use in todays times or could
> the door switches be used with a new alarm system?

****************

Sorry Trevor, but my only experience with the alarm system on a 70s
Hurst/Olds was the time that I was extremely upset with the service
department at a suburban Detroit Oldsmobile dealership after they botched a
repair on my '72 W-30 and then didn't have the parts necessary to replace
what they had broken, rendering my car undrivable.  They had a new '75 H/O
on display in their showroom, with the T-Tops out.  I set the alarm, locked
the doors, and took the keys.  (The Statute of Limitation HAS passed on
this, hasn't it?)  I didn't hang around to see who stood on a chair to
unlock a door through the open roof panel, and set the alarm off.  And by
the way yes, the battery was still connected and I did take both sets of
keys.  In fact, I think that I still have them . . .

Tom Stoner
Oldsmobile Club of America #3943
Ann Arbor, MI
tgstoner@umich.edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 98 09:23:21 -0500
From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Subject: Group Hug Needed & Deserved

OK everyone, gather in a circle. Everyone who was in on the 1/4 panel 
discussion to the center.  Now everyone HUG (hold for a count of 10) For 
those not so sentimental, a handshake will do.

NOW BACK TO OUR REGULARLY SCHEDULED DISCUSSION OF OLDSMOBILES!

(please, no reply's to the group.....end)

 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson (OCA's Web Guy)
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America #18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - Newest Chapter of OCA
(W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov   (H) brad442@erols.com
Personal Web Page - http://www.erols/com/brad442
OCC Web Page - http://www.erols.com/brad442/occ
OCA Web Page - http://www.erols.com/brad442/oca

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 08:33:40 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Engine replacement

I think it did belong in it....to bad olds didn't back then huh? 

> 
> I had a 455 in a '82. Stock intake, Qjet and a 14" Moroso air
> cleaner (about 3" tall filter). Fit like it belonged in it.
> 
> Daren
> 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 09:46:32 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: 231=> V8

Chris Brown Witt wrote:

> Everyone says put a bowtie in it.
> 
> [[  did I hear that one coming, or what? ]]

At work, for a while, we had a full G-Body represent, a Cutlass, a Monte
Carlo SS, a Regal, and a Grand Prix.  All with their respective
engines... <G> My friend with the 84 Regal is taking the Buick 231 out. 
He was set on dropping a 350 Chevy SB in there, not anymore...  I got
him convinced to drop an Olds 350 instead... <G>
- -- 
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
- - Here we go Steelers!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 08:50:14 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Anit-Theft on '73-'77 Cutlass??

Tom,

Please read a story entitled, "Vengence is Mine saith ............."

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible

>
>Sorry Trevor, but my only experience with the alarm system on a 70s
>Hurst/Olds was the time that I was extremely upset with the service
>department at a suburban Detroit Oldsmobile dealership after they botched a
>repair on my '72 W-30

 and I did take both sets of
>keys.  In fact, I think that I still have them . . .
>
>Tom Stoner
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 09:05:41 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: Re: 87 cutlass, odd problem... and 4-4-2 progress

> but I've been having a slight problem with the engine, the 
> oil light keeps coming on for a few seconds or 30 on startup,
> (the oil is full)

Not good. Your oil pressure is going away on you (or if you're
lucky, you just have a bad sending unit). 

> then I start driving (after the slipping tranny kicks in) and the 
> light goes out and the thing stops beeping at me,

Your engine speed is just high enough to get the pressure up 
to where the light goes out...

> but, the kicker is, as soon as i hit 40-45 and overdrive kicks 
> in it comes on again!

...when your engine speed drops down...

> but if i barely tap the brake and unlock (?)

...yes...

> the torque converter it goes out till i let off the brakes,

...since your engine speed rises slightly when the lockup
lets go.

> does anyone have a clue what this might be? and no
> check engine light.

No, it won't set the Check Engine light, at least not until
something goes VVK, but your oil pressure as measured
is marginal. Replace the sender with a mechanical oil
pressure gauge and see what it shows. If it looks normal
(especially if the sender turns out to be wet with oil on the
outside), replace the sender; if it's not normal (I'd say less
than 40 psi at driving speed), you're looking at a new oil
pump -- HappyHappyJoyJoy...  :-(
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 07:06:40 -0800
From: Jon Graham <jgraham@govsales.com>
Subject: HO Quad 4 exhaust manifold

I'm trying to track one down for the 89 - 91 HO Quad 4.  Must be cast iron ( I guess not all of them were).  jgraham@govsales.com if anyone can help.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 10:15:00 -0500
From: "Jacobs, Steven G." <steven_jacobs@merck.com>
Subject: Info on Alero

List:
Hello, my name is Steve Jacobs.  I joined this list this morning.  I am
looking for any information on the new Olds Alero.  Please forgive me if
this topic has already been beat to death.  I am in the market for a
daily driver and want to check it out.

I currently own a 1971 Cutlass Supreme Convertible.  I am the second
owner having bought it ($300) when it was traded in at Blossom Chevrolet
in Indianapolis in 1985.  The $300 price was partly due to the fact that
my father ran the tower in the service department and I was prepping new
Chevy's for the summer.  I actually won second place in a car show in
1987 after I had the interior and top redone, a new paint job (from
green to red) and engine and transmission work.  The body needs to be
done right at some point.

I have owned 4 cutlass's in my 16 years of driving.  My second car was a
1973 Cutlass S that I bought in 1982.  I drove it through High School.
That car ended up being passed down through my fraternity at Indiana
State University.  I then purchased a 1974 442 that still remains the
car that I have driven the fastest.  (145 MPH).  I wrecked it (not my
fault) and sold it to a friend who also wrecked it (his fault). I ended
up buying it back from the junk yard and selling the rims, tires, and
stereo system.  I wanted to put the 445 in a boat (has anyone ever done
this).  When I moved to the East Coast I told my parents to get rid of
it.

Well that's my introduction.  In the future, I want to find a right
fender for my 71 Cutlass, a fiberglass ram air hood and quarter panels.
The car also has air conditioning and cruise control that needs repair.
That's down the road though. In the meantime if anyone has information
on the new Alero, I would appreciate a response.

I am also a member of the Oldsmobile Club of America and the Blue Gray
Oldsmobile Club.   I currently live near Allentown, PA.

Steve Jacobs

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 10:36:07 -0500
From: Jim Hurd <jhurd@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: Engine Repair Software

        I was cleaning my files the other day and came across a brochure
from Actron (Sunpro).  Along with all their guages and testers one page
listed Computech engine repair software.  I have a '87 Cutlass Salon
(computer controlled) and was wondering if anyone has ever used this or
other software or if any knows anything more about them.  From the
description I can't tell if it is just an "online" manual or if there is a
hookup to the ECM (ALCL).  

        Does anyone know if there is software available in which you can
plug your laptop into the ECM/ALCL and get current readings (timing, fuel
adjustment, etc.) or change these settings to your own.  TIA




Jim H.
'87 Salon

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 10:49:46 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: brothers

COUPE KING wrote:
> 
> Aaron-
> There is only one maker of GM authorized repro quarter panels. Fusick,
> Brothers and Year One all sell the same part.
> When I bought my quarters from Brothers 6-8 months ago, the right panel was
> out of stock. Steve got a panel from Year One--they had a supply-- and sent it
> to me when I was in a bind . There was no extra charge.

Do I want to ask this question?  Did the panel fit like it was supposed
to or did it require substantial massaging?  Not trying to start the
flames raging either way, but I would like to know.  Email me privately
if you wish.  TIA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 09:56:42 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: Re: Brake light on

> Any suggestions as to why this light is on? I know its
> main purpose is to let you know the e-brake is on, but 
> isn't it also supposed to indicate a brake system 
> problem like low fluid (it does on our truck)?

It indicates a pressure imbalance between the two braking
systems (two wheels per system), not low fluid (although
obviously when the fluid is low enough in one system, the
light will come on when the system fails). It also
indicates that the parking brake is applied.

> The ratcheting device in my e-brake is broken (pedal 
> won't stay down) so I don't use it.  Suppose the 
> electrical switch that indicates e-brake on could be 
> broken?

Not broken, but stuck on because the parking brake cable
hasn't retracted all the way to depress the plunger that
cancels the light. If, when the light is stuck on, you
can turn it off by pulling on the brake release handle
and lifting the parking brake pedal with your foot, that's
where your problem is. Otherwise you've got a problem with
the proportioning valve.

> Disconnect it?

If the light goes out when you disconnect the (brown?)
wire connected to the parking brake under the dash, fine.
If the light goes out when you disconnect the wire going
into the proportioning valve under the hood, you have a
brake system problem; not fine.

Often you can turn the light out by "helping" the parking
brake cable retract all the way. Kneel outside the open
driver's door, pull and hold the parking brake release 
handle, and reach underneath to find the brake cable
hanging underneath. Pull sharply downwards on it and it
should draw up enough slack to pull the parking brake
pedal back up and turn off the light.
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 11:12:06 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Rear Side Markers

>>I've allways heard that their is a slight size difference on the 68 & 69
rear
>>side markers. I know that GM had different part numbers for the 68 and 69's.
 [snip]
>When I was a kid we always used to tell the year of a car by the numbers
>cast in the tail light bezels.  Which would make these 1968 parts (or
>originally produced for 1968 cars).

The limit to the usefulness of that year cast in the taillights is that it
refers to the "calender year of production" (Jan.-Dec.), while the car is
produced in a "model year" (Sept.-Aug.), so a '69 produced from September
1968 through December 1968 would wear a light with a 1968 casting (so might
the cars produced in the first few months of 1969, as the parts produced at
the end of 1968 worked their way through the supply inventory).

Sorry I can't help with the '68 vs. '69 bezel question though; never owned
one of those beauties.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 11:20:41 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 87 cutlass, odd problem... and 4-4-2 progress

>  Hello, well :) it's been a good car so far aside from the fact it has a
>B*ick engine (for now) but i've been having a slight problem with the
>engine, the oil light keeps comming on for a few seconds or 30 on startup,
>(the oil is full) then i start driving (after the slipping tranny kicks in)
>and the lght goes out and the thing stops beeping at me, but, the kicker
>is, as soon as i hit 40-45 and overdrive kicks in it comes on again! but if
>i barely tap the brake and unlock (?) the torque converter it goes out till
>i let off the brakes, does anyone have a cluw what this might be? and no
>check engine light.

You've got low oil pressure at low rpms. The cheap solution is simply to
use a heavier oil, or keep the engine revs up (I didn't say it was a *good*
solution, just a cheap one). There are any number of reasons you might have
weak oil pressure:

* excessive bearing clearances (likely if the motor has more than 100,000
miles on it)
* Clogged or restricted oil passages
* Weak oil pump

If your oil passages are restricted, you might try a motor flush to clean
them. Usually you add this to your oil, run it for ten minutes, and then
drain out the old oil; it is supposed to remove the gunk in the engine, but
it doesn't have very good lubricating properties, so you'll trash your
engine if you try to drive it.

I'm not familiar with the layout of the Buick V-6, but I thought I recall
the oil pump being relatively easy to get to (i.e. you don't have to drop
the oil pan), so you might price one of those if the above doesn't work.

If the pump is strong, and the flushing doesn't improve things, then it's
likely the bearing clearances. In that case, the real solution is to
rebuild the engine (or install a different rebuilt one; many parts places
are selling engines from major remanufacturers). In the interim, though,
you can just keep a thicker oil in there.

Then again, you might just find changing your oil solves the problem;
when's the last time it was changed?

> But on the lighter side of things, and due to some rewally nice weather
>here in the cleveland area. i finally got the body off my 72 4-4-2, and
>i've never seen a frame with more patches in it in my life! most of which i
>could just break off by hand due to rust. including breaking off the frame
>just past the rear tires by hand also, good thing i found another frame,
>because i'd hate to have to fix this one :)

Josh, it's good to have people like you on this list; you make me feel so
much better about my own cars! ;)
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 98 10:39:24 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Correction on Engine ID

     One correction on my response to Laura's question on IDing engines from 
     other GM divisions.  I originally stated:
     
     "...The other distinctive Olds identifier is the oil fill tube sticking up 
     from the front of the block, directly above the water pump.  All the other 
     GM engines (actually, I'm not sure about Caddy) have an oil fill cap on one 
     of the valve covers...."
     
     Never having owned a small block Ch*vy, I forgot that some of those engines 
     came with the oil fill tube sticking up from the front of the intake 
     manifold.  It's still pretty easy to tell an SBC from a BBO, however.  
     Besides the physical size and the four bolts per valve cover vs. the Olds' 
     ten, this oil fill tube will be angled on the Ch*vy and straight up and 
     down on the Olds.  In addition, as mentioned above, the Ch*vy's fill tube 
     will be pressed into the intake manifold whereas the Olds' tube will sprout 
     from the shelf at the front of the block.
     
     Sorry for the oversight.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30
     
     
     

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 09:44:40 -0500
From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Subject: Re: **VERY IMPORTANT QUESTION**

At 10:16 PM 1/4/98 -0500, you wrote:

>You'd go with the torque for the bolts (here, 1/2" bolts), which is 130
>ft/lbs (with oil on the threads and under the head of the bolt)...       
>_______________________________________________________
>Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
>Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918


Hi Doc
I am in the process of putting together a non-Olds motor, and recent posts
have raised a question about *wet* torque specs. Do you know if oiling
bolts/nuts before assembly and torque is a universal for all motors and
manufacturers. Or, is this an Olds thing?

TIA
Ray
Alex. VA
70 Cutlass Conv.
70 442 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 12:38:28 EST
From: CRuper1 <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Can someone help Laura?...(Re: Laura's motor)

In a message dated 98-01-05 23:54:42 EST, you write:

<< 
 Alas, the only way to really be sure they do it right is to see the various
 measurements that matter- bore size and cylindricity, crank journal
 measurements, etc. Rather involved for the uninitiated. Do you have an expert
 friend that could do a pre-assembly inspection?
 
 And, PLEASE, Laura, SPECIFY the color of the motor before they paint it, lest
 you end up with a Chevy Orange 455!
 
 It should be red for your car. Red.
 --
 Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
 *the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
          >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<
 
  >>

Well, I agree with Chris here, maybe having a "knolengable friend" along would
help.  Now here's my question, whereabouts IS Laura at?  Is there anybody here
that is close, and knowledgable enough to help out?  It sounds like she's
having a helluva time getting things back right, and I hate to see that (and
worse yet are these idiots that are (knowingly, or not) taking her for a ride
also!).  So, is there anybody that can help out here, I'm sure it woudn't take
much, but that little bit may save a fellow Olds owner some future troubles,
and money.  If I'm in the area, I'd be willing to help out, but I'm not sure
where she's at.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 13:03:54 EST
From: CRuper1 <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: DeNovi's parts

In a message dated 98-01-05 23:26:38 EST, you write:

<< 
  When I get out of the hobby, I'm having a "by the pound" sale. Anything too
 crappy to buy at 5 cents a lb goes to the scrap yard AFTER the hobbyists pick
 over the goodies.
 
 --
 Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
 *the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
          >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<
  >>
Hmmm...  I'm familiar with some of the things you have, I'll help ya "clean
out things" right now..., and even better yet, I'll give ya closer to
.10/pound... :-)..

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 13:22:52 -0800
From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Subject: Test again....Don't read again!

Michael A. Evans
evans1@net-link.net
Richland, MI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 12:30:09 -0600
From: "babbott@pdnt.com" <babbott@pdnt.com>
Subject: Re: was Mondello, now Miller

I've got the video's from '94-'95 and i would really love copies of other
years if ya gottem. I'm in central IL and am planning to go racin at the
Olds nats if the money holds out. I had big plans to go in 97 but I've got
a new son and.... well you know the rest of the story....
Eric Phillips

- ----------
> From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: was Mondello, now Miller
> Date: Monday, January 05, 1998 10:09 PM
> 
> Kurt,
> 
> I take it from your response that you have attended the Mondello
> meet in the past. I spoke to Dick Miller a couple of weeks ago
> and he advised that he is taking over the Norwalk event. I guess
> that Mondello is going to have his held now at Bristol Tn. raceway.
> starting in 1999.  This is what I've heard. Don't suppose I'll ever find
> out for sure as for the past 4 years I never got a flyer from Mondello
> for his event..... despite winning  Street Tire class twice since 93'
>  Appreciated Joe for hosting this event but must confess that the way
> he treated the participants left much to be desired.
> 
>  Good friend of mine won class in 97 and didn't get 14 of the posted
> contingency
> awards.  That was very disappointing.
> 
>  What car and class did you participate in / with.  I have video from the
> past 5 years and could probably find ya on it..
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>  As a longtime Olds performance buff I would encourage all other Olds
owners
> that like to race/watch or show their cars try to catch this event at
Norwalk
> raceway
> in Norwalk Ohio ,on Aug. 16.  We need to show our support for Dick as he
has
> now
> taken on the finacial responsibility to host this event for our
enjoyment.
> Those of you
> that are in reasonable range of this track and have never been to an
event at
> Norwalk are in for a real treat. This track is probably one of the nicest
> tracks operating in the country. Everyone from the owner to the lowest
person
> on the totem pole go out of their way to ensure that all visitors enjoy
the
> event whatever it takes.
>  For those that are not into the racing as much there is a car show on
site
> the same
> day of which was never pushed as much as the racing event.  Let's turn
this
> event
> into the largest Midwest gathering or Oldsmobile's second only to the OCA
> nat's.
> The grounds at Norwalk can easily accomodate 1000 cars for show without
even
> getting into the pit area or mingling among the racers. 
> 
> What'a say folks....... they get thousands attending the Buick meet every
year
> in Bowling Green Ky. What better way to get our marque RECONIZED for the
> beauty and power we all hold keys to......
> 
> Happy E.T.'s to all
> 
> Rgds,
> Rob Thomas
> 69 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 13:12:32 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Side Markers

>> I always thought they were the same, but I see Fusick 
>> lists 2 different items, one for each year, so there 
>> must be a subtle difference.
>
> Also, it seems that the curvature of the rear of
> the quarters match the curvature of the bumpers on both years.

Didn't they also have two different castings for the chrome
housing differentiated by model? Seems to me the 88/98 series
has a flat back to mount on the flat rear quarterpanel, whereas
the Cutlass/4-4-2 has a curved backing to matched the curved
rear quarters. Whether the red lens is the same I don't know.
Pontiacs of the same year had a similar setup (Bonneville vs.
LeMans; flat base vs. curved), only using the Pontiac V shield 
as a lens outline instead of the Olds rocket, and on those the
red lenses did not interchange.
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 14:31:22 -0500
From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Subject: X-Mailer: <PC Eudora Version 1.4b22>

unsubscribe oldsmobile evans1@net-link.net


Mike Evans
Richland, MI
evans1@net-link.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 14:55:02 EST
From: BobH592058 <BobH592058@aol.com>
Subject: Resotration Parts

I'm still mostly in the lurking mode reading the digest as I have time and
I've been thinking a lot about the current thread over quarter panels that
don't quite fit.

I work with companies seeking medical device approvals from the US Food & Drug
Administration, I am a retired manager from the FDA. As a result I have a more
than average knowledge of the industry and I think a couple of examples
parallel this situation.

I'm sure everyone has heard of breast implants and their alleged problems,
there is also a less famous case of heart pacemaker leads.  In both cases the
companies involved, IMO, did not perform adequate clinical testing prior to
releasing their products to the general public.  Is there anyone who would not
consider the idea of a product going directly into an unsuspecting patient's
body from the engineers drawing board as at least immoral if not downright
criminal? 

It seems likely the same thing has happened here with these quarters and
numerous other patch panels, interior reproductions, etc.   An obvious
scenario is that they have not have been tested on real vehicles but were put
directly into production.  If it is immoral and wrong in one instance it is
just as wrong in another. Now, I am not saying life affecting matters are at
play here, but honesty, morality and responsibility still apply.

As has been noted, many items are the same and sold by many suppliers.  The
initial responsibility for proper product development and honesty is with the
person or company who produce it.  But the more numerous restoration suppliers
also have a responsibility to make every effort possible to ensure that what
they sell is accurately described, not just priced competitively. It is
dishonest and immoral to take the position that lousy product is the customers
problem whether it is a medical device or a part. Period guys and gals!

Comments from such a supplier and at least one other poster to this list seem
to show that "buyer beware" has evolved from a warning to a business attitude.
It's wrong, immoral, dishonest and we, as the consumers of these items, should
not accept it!

Any vendor or company who takes such a position will not get my money or my
recommendation - EVER!

Year One has a better reputation now than they did several years ago. Specific
problems I remember being discussed are, are you ready, patch panels. Yup,
same thing.  Now, I don't know if it was the result ot law suits, customer
gripes or evolving honesty, but if you read the YO catalog carefully it
clearly states where certain parts vary from original. I believe they even
have a graded rating for body panels from first rate to "last resort".

I've dealt with Mike Fusick and Specialty Olds for about15 years and have
never had a problem with either. I asked around and listened to the advice of
other Olds owners.  That approach works almost every time.

So, any vendors out there who care to listen, be honest with your customers
and you will get fewer gripes, less bad "press", a lot more loyalty and good
references to additional customers.  Take a "I don't give a damn you're stuck
with it" attitude and you'll get the opposite of each of those. And I don't
care how successful your business is today, it WILL come back to bite you in
the butt!  ASK DETROIT!

And BTW, I am a customer _and_ small business operator too so don't tell me I
don't know what I am talking about.

I also sleep very well at night thank you.

Bob Handren 
OCA/OCF# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 12:08:16 -0800
From: "mr. coy d. arbogast" <coyster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro

This is coy from Las Vegas NV.  I am interested in a pair of good hood
hidges for a 68 olds culass. Also a grille and headlight bezel assemblies
for a 68 442.
Thanks Coy


- ----------
> From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro
> Date: Wednesday, December 31, 1997 5:40 PM
> 
>                                           C&M Classic Parts
>                        1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
>                                 (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
>                                          <chermac@exis.net>
> 
> Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm,  Sat 9:00 am - 6:00 pm,  Sunday
Closed
> *We accept all major Credit Cards. VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and
Discover.*
> Lots of new reproduction parts will be coming out in January-March 98.
> 
>         66 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $1795.00
>         67 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $995.00
>         66 & 67 Track Pac kits (complete, just like the dealer option
includes;
>         shroud, ducts, hoses, cam/lifters, battery accessories) Mar/Apr
98.
>                 **** Items with an ** are 10% off thru Jan 98.
>  
> New Parts:
> 66-67 442 4 Spd. Open Air Cleaner  $40.00
> 75 Omega Front Fenders (very nice pair)  $180.00 pr
> 75 Omega Bucket Seats (nice, maroon cloth)  $85.00 pr
> 65-67 442 Chassis (Rolling, 12 bolt, drums, with body shell)  $325.00
> 66-67 330/320 hp Cutlass Engine (80,000 miles, complete, runs good) 
$375.00
> 65-67 400/425 Steel Crank (no pilot bushing hole, std)  $180.00
> 65-67 425 "D" Block std bore, small lifter bore  $150.00  
> 350 Stick Cranks  $175.00 ea
> 66-67 442 "E" 400 cu in auto engine (apart, complete, std bore, nice) 
$600.00
> **64-67 Power Steering Bracket  $15.00
> **64-67 Alternator Brackets (A/C car)  $20.00 set
> **69 442 LH Grille (good cond)  $45.00
> **69-72 4 Row Radiator Top Plate (nice)  $65.00 
> 69-72 Ignition Switch (w/o tilt)  *new*  $24.00
> 69-72 Ignition Switch (w/tilt) *new*  $22.00
> 71 W-30 "TO" Code 10 bolt 3.73:1 anti-spin (date code '352 70') mint 
$650.00
> 75 Hurst Olds (Hurst Hatches) no bags  $195.00 pr
> **70 LH/RH Hood "L" moldings (few small pits under side, nice) $95.00 pr
> **70 442/SX/Rally 350 Rear Cutout Bumper (CORE)  $110.00
> **70-72 Lower A/C Vents (for 8 Track car, mint, black)  $80.00 pr 
> **70-72 Dash Pad and Dash Plastic (radio area, green, mint)  $185.00
> **67-68 Big Cars AM/FM Stereo (nice, works well)  $75.00
> **69-72  Bench Seat Headrests (black, mint)  $45.00 pr
> 68-72 Arm Rest Pad Bases (rear, post coupe, black)  $20.00 pr
> **68-72 Rear Defrost  (no switch)  $30.00
> **68-72 2 Door Chassis (coupe, solid)  $300.00 (you arrange shipping or
pickup)
> **69-72 Column Shift Steering Column (plain)  $45.00
> **69-70 Console Shift Steering Column (non-tilt)  $95.00
> 64-72 Power Window Motors  (excellent cond) $50.00 ea
> **70-72 455 Engine Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $40.00 pr
> **68-72 350 Engine Mount (NEW, Made in USA)  $38.00 pr
> **64-72 Jetaway/TH350, 4 Spd Trans Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $14.00 
> **67-72 TH400 Trans Mounts (NEW, made in USA)  $17.00 ea
> (6) Hurst Wheels 14x6 (5 on 4 3/4) nice  $2300.00 
> **70-75 Sport Steering Wheels (black, nice centers, complete)  $130.00 ea
> 
> New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts 1964-1972 Cutlass/442
> 
> **65 Cutlass/442 PO2 Deluxe Wheelcovers (N.O.S.)  $350.00
> **66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea                           
> **68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea                       
> **69 Cutlass RH Grilles (N.O.S.) $85.00 ea                             
> **70 Cutlass Supreme Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr
> **70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
> **71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr                          
> **71-72 Stone Shields (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea                              
> **71-72 Headlight Housings (plastic) (N.O.S.) $80.00 pr          
> **72 Cutlass Supreme & Hurst/Olds Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr
> 
> Used Parts:
> 64 Cutlass/442                       
> **64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $50.00
> **RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00                                             
    
> **Front Bumper Core  $50.00                                              
    
> **F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00                                      
> 
> 65 Cutlass/442
> **64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $50.00
> **65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  LH/RH rear $15.00 ea
> 65-(early) 66 Plain Full Wheel Covers (4, mint)  $30.00 
> 
> 66 Cutlass/442
> **64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $50.00
> **66 Cutlass Trunk Molding (very good)  $85.00
> **66 Cutlass Tail Light Bezels (very good)  $85.00 pr
> 65-(early) 66 Plain Full Wheel Covers (4, mint)  $30.00 
> **66 Turbine Full Wheel Covers (4) good  $80.00 set
> 66 Cutlass/442 Side Chrome moldings (almost complete set) Inquire
> **66 F-85/Cutlass grille (nice)   $55.00
> **66 F-85/Cutlass grille (good)  $35.00 
> **66 330 cu in 2 bbl engine (complete w/trans, 17,000 original miles) 
$300.00  
> **66-67 AM Radios (nice)  $30.00 ea
> 66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
> 66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
> **66 Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
> **Post Coupe Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr
> F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea                                  
> 
> 67 Cutlass/442
> **67 4 spd Speedometer Adapter (3.42 gears & 4spd)  $45.00
> 67 Cutlass Plain Full Hubcaps (4, mint)  $30.00
> **67 Plain Cutlass Holiday Hardtop interior door panels and rear sides
(very
> nice, blue/green) $85.00 set of 4
> **67 Cutlass Jetaway Trans (low miles, w/switch pitch converter)  $125.00
> **67 Cutlass/F-85 Grille Bar (very nice, no cracks, good chrome)  $45.00
> 67-69 Power Antenna assm (nice, no switch)  $45.00
> 66-67 Rear Side window lower U-seals (new, Metro Moulded)  $18.00 pr
> **67 W-30 Core Support (Factory stamped, bent on drivers side)  $225.00
> **67 Cutlass Hood (mint)  $100.00
> 67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea
> 67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.50 ea
> **67 Rear Defrost setup (w/switch)  $45.00
> **66-67 AM Radios  (nice)  $30.00 ea
> 66-67 RH Hardtop/Conv Doors (very nice)  $90.00 ea
> 66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
> 66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
> **67 F-85 Rear Bumper (very good condition)  $75.00
> **67 Front Bumper (straight, core)  $70.00
> **67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $50.00 pr
> 67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $90.00 ea
> 67 442 Pie Tin Decal  $3.00
> **67 RH Fender (small metal patch panel, straight)  $165.00
> 
> 68 Cutlass/442
> **68-69 Cutlass/442 Post Coupe LH Door  $85.00
> 68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
> 68 Turn Signal Lens (mint)  $12.00 ea
> **68 Cutlass Rear Bumper (core)  $75.00
> **68-69 14x6 SSII Wheels (set of 5)  $200.00
> 68-69 Power Antenna Assm (no switch, has adapter, needs mast)  $25.00
> 68 AM Radio  $25.00
> **68  8-Track Unit (housing cracked, needs plastic one)  $65.00
> 68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
> 68-69 LH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $135.00
> 68-69 RH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $135.00
> 68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00              
> Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set                               
> 68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00                     
> 68 Air Cleaner Stove Pipe (pipe only)  $10.00                            
 
> **68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $40.00 ea                                     
      
> 68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea                                
> **68-72 B-Pillar Molding Sets (black, mint) $27.50 pr 
> 
> 69 Cutlass/442
> 68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
> **69 Rallye Pack (Gauge side only)  $75.00
> **69 Cutlass RH Grille (nice, used)  $40.00
> **69 442 RH Grille (nice) $50.00
> **69 Cruise Control Switch and Bezel  $25.00
> **69 Radiator Core Support 3 Row (mint, no rust holes)  $150.00
> **69 Tail Light Bezels (nice, pit free)  $135.00 pr
> **69 Trunk Lid (Conv, nice)  $175.00
> **69 Headlight Bezels  $60.00 pr
> **69 Lower Dash (radio area)  (nice)  $35.00
> 69 C/S Side Moldings (mint, no pits)  $15.00 ea
> 68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
> 68-69 LH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $135.00
> 68-69 RH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $135.00
> **69 Cutlass/442 Doors 2 dr Hardtop (mint pair)  $200.00 pr / $110.00 ea
> **69-72 Hood Hinges  $40.00 pr
> **69-70 "S" Hood Louver Chrome  $25.00 pr
> **69-70 "S" Hood Louver Moldiings  $25.00 pr
> 68-72 Windshield Molding Sets  $45.00 set                                

> 68-72 Fastback Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set
> **69-72 Floor Shift Steering Column (very good)  $95.00
> 69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
> **69 RH Fender (small nickel sized hole)  $200.00
> **69 Rear Bumper (V05 rub strip) one small ding  $135.00
> **69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $55.00 ea
> 69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $25.00 ea
> 
> 70 Cutlass/442
> **70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
> **70 Std Auto console neutral safety switch w/bracket  $65.00
> 70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
> 70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
> 70 350 4 bbl Stick engine (complete, minus carb runs great)  $275.00
> **70 FLAT Fender RH (small metal patch panel installed nice)  $300.00 
> 70 Cutlass Supreme Door Panels (black mint) 4 for $100.00
> **70 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
> **70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (excellent)  $115.00
> 70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
> 70-72 455 Std. Iron intake manifold (auto cars)  $55.00
> 70-72 Std. Auto Console Shift Lens  (repro)  $23.00 ea
> 70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea             
> 70 RH Sport Mirror Shell  $40.00
> 70 F-85 Horn Button (cheap style wheel, excellent)  $10.00
> 70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00                                    
> 69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00                               

> **69-70 "S" Hood Chrome Vents  $25.00 pr                                 
      
> **69-70 "S" Hood Vent Moldings  $25.00 pr
> **70 "S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr         
> **70 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $90.00                                  
> **70-72 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
> **70-72 RH Fender (has small patch panel)   $185.00
> 70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens   $17.00 ea
> 70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens  $23.00 ea
> 
> 71 Cutlass/442
> **70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
> **70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
> 70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
> 71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
> **71-72 Power Window Switches (nice)  $25.00 (4) button,  $10.00 singles
> **71-72 Fender RH (small metal patch in bottom)  $185.00
> 71 350 4 bbl Engine (complete, carb to pan, runs excellent) $250.00
> 71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
> **71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
> **70-72 C/S LH/RH Side Glass  $25.00 ea 
> **71 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
> 
> 72 Cutlass/442
> **70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
> **70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
> 70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
> 71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
> **71-72 Power Window Switches (nice)  $25.00 (4) button,  $10.00 singles
> **71-72 10 Bolt 2.56:1 (open rear)  $75.00
> 72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00                                  
> **71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
> **72 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr            
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 15:11:13 -0800
From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Subject: Mime-Version: 1.0

subscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 11:40:48 -0600
From: "LAURA D. STEINKE" <WPODOM1.HORT-FOREST.LSTEINKE@taexgw.tamu.edu>
Subject: Re: Engine Woes - Reply

Joe wrote:
     You mention that your 66 has an early 455.  I assume this is not the 
     original engine, as the 455 was not released until 1968.

No.  Aparently one of the previous owners thought it would be a nice
thing to stick a 455 and a TH400 in there <big grin>

     As for getting an early 455, the early blocks are more desirable due 
     to the thicker walls and higher nickel content.  For a light duty 
     street motor, you'll likely never notice the difference of a later 
     unit, however it's better to start with the thicker walls if the block 
     needs to be bored.

I recalled from past list talk that the earlier was 'better' but wasn't sure
how :)  This clears that up a bit.  While I won't be making a hot rod out of it
I do like to feel the power out on the interstate every once in awhile
<grin>  Should I insist on the earlier 455?  I'm not sure how picky I should
be and they've already 'picked out' a replacement of which neither me or
my mechanic has seen (though I'm making plans on a visit after work
today)

Then Chris wrote:
    Make sure you did or did not have a 425!

I'm sure.  After they took so long the first time when I got it back I did an
engine decode on it and found it was the early 455.

    455 is an "F" [lotsa alliteration there, eh?] and the 425 is a "D" block.

That helps alot since I know what you mean after having decoded my
own engine before it went back into the shop.  While they may not try and
stick a differant brand engine in there (due to the work Joe described)
they may stick a 425 in there.  I'm sure I sound parinoid, but these guys
are real jerks.

     Do you have an expert friend that could do a pre-assembly                   
     inspection?

Unfortunatly not within easy driving distance :(

     And, PLEASE, Laura, SPECIFY the color of the motor before they paint 
      it, lest you end up with a Chevy Orange 455!
      
      It should be red for your car. Red.

Or in this case, blue...Right ;)  Last paint job was a plymouth blue I think
(a flat baby blue color) and they painted it *horribly*.  The prep work
looked like they maybe wiped it down with a rag and Mr.Clean.  It had
chips of paint flaking off before I had even broken the engine in.  Since
last I heard the Olds engine blue was hard to come by, what's the second
choice?

Thanks again
Laura
66 Delta 88 aka Pook

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 15:29:38 -0500
From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Subject: OOPS (was Re: **VERY IMPORTANT QUESTION**)

At 09:44 AM 1/6/98 -0500, you wrote:

>Hi Doc....

>TIA
>Ray

Apologies to all for bandwidth and content. That was supposed to go private.

Ray

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 15:45:02 -0500
From: "Robert T. Handren, Jr." <bobhandren@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Retirement sales

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BD1ABA.0D4AFF60
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<<When I get out of the hobby, I'm having a "by the pound" sale. =
Anything too
crappy to buy at 5 cents a lb goes to the scrap yard AFTER the hobbyists =
pick
over the goodies.

- - --
Chris  B. Witt >>

Ooh, ooh, when is that sale Chris?!?!

Bob Handren=20
OCA/OCF# 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

- ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BD1ABA.0D4AFF60
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&lt;&lt;When I get out of the hobby, I'm having a &quot;by the =
pound&quot;=20
sale. Anything too<BR>crappy to buy at 5 cents a lb goes to the scrap =
yard AFTER=20
the hobbyists pick<BR>over the goodies.<BR><BR>- --<BR>Chris&nbsp; B. =
Witt=20
&gt;&gt;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Ooh, ooh, when is that sale Chris?!?!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Bob Handren <BR>OCA/OCF# 7728<BR>'67 W-30 =
Modified&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
'70 SX Convertible<BR>Oviedo, FL</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Handren Associates, Inc.<BR>FDA Medical Device Regulatory=20
Affairs<BR>Laser/Optical Radiation =
Safety<BR>(407)365-6385</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BD1ABA.0D4AFF60--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 15:10:52 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Re: Group Hug Needed & Deserved

Man,

I must have missed a firestorm during the holiday break...everybody play
nice!

Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 98 16:05:38 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Engine Repair Software

Jim H asked:
     
        Does anyone know if there is software available in which you can
plug your laptop into the ECM/ALCL and get current readings (timing, fuel 
adjustment, etc.) or change these settings to your own.
     
     
     Jim,
     
     The software with which I am familiar is from a company called Diacom. 
     Their program has been on the market for a number of years and allows 
     you to connect a laptop to the ALCL and read out all of the 
     information.  It has an added advantage of being able to record these 
     readings for a few seconds at a time when you hit the space bar.  This 
     feature is extremely valuable for capturing intermittent problems - 
     just drive with the laptop hooked up in recording mode and hit the 
     space bar when the problem occurs.
     
     Unfortunately, I haven't looked into this in years (none of my cars 
     are computer literate except the wife's 92 Buick),  so I don't know 
     for sure that they are still in business.  Last address/phone I have 
     is:
     
     Rinda Technologies Inc
     5112 N. Elston Ave
     Chicago, IL  60630
     (312) 736-6633
     
     Perhaps Andy Green or another Chi Town list member could look them up.
     
     If anyone is interested, I have an old (so old, it's DOS-based) demo 
     of the Diacom software.  I've zipped the files into a self-extracting 
     archive and can email it to anyone interested (it's a 148K file).  
     Please email me privately.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 98 16:10:06 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: Engine Woes - Reply

     
     And, PLEASE, Laura, SPECIFY the color of the motor before they paint 
      it, lest you end up with a Chevy Orange 455!
     
      It should be red for your car. Red.
     
Or in this case, blue...Right ;) 
     
     Actually, the 68-69 455s _were_ painted red - same as the 425s.  It 
     wasn't until 70 that the metallic blue was introduced.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 15:22:05 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Re: 1970 W-32? (and other Q's too)

>grills of the '70 Cutlass Supremes and where I can buy the spray paint
>(like at NAPA or other)??  Thanks again!!!
>I think that color is "Dull Aluminum"; regular Krylon will do (I have to
do
>my grilles as well...).

FYI,

I had a 70 Firebird, 72 Cutlass Supreme, a 71 Cutlass S as well as my
current ride and on each I used the Krylon Bright aluminum paint, at first
it was way to bright but after spraying it lightly with Krylon Crystal
Clear it looked great! I had lots of people ask me where I was able to find
new grilles for the 70 Bird...not new, just painted!

Works well and the Crystal Clear keeps the paint well protected!

And, anybody ever paint the headlight/grille assemblies on a 68 442? NO
FUN!!! It took me 3 1/2 hours just to mask them off to paint the black
inside.

Just my experience on the grille subject!

Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 16:26:48 -0800
From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Subject: Mime-Version: 1.0

unsubscribe evans1@net-link.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 16:02:17 -0600
From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@interaccess.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Repair Software

Padavano.Joe wrote:
<snip>
> 
>      The software with which I am familiar is from a company called Diacom.
>      Their program has been on the market for a number of years and allows
>      you to connect a laptop to the ALCL and read out all of the
>      information.  It has an added advantage of being able to record these
>      readings for a few seconds at a time when you hit the space bar.  This
>      feature is extremely valuable for capturing intermittent problems -
>      just drive with the laptop hooked up in recording mode and hit the
>      space bar when the problem occurs.
<snip>
>      Rinda Technologies Inc
>      5112 N. Elston Ave
>      Chicago, IL  60630
>      (312) 736-6633

Yup, they're still there..or reasonably close...The area code has
changed to 773.  Their web pag is at http://www.mcs.net/~rinda/home.html

- -- 
- ---Matt
Chicago, IL
'86 442
- --------------------------------------------------------
mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
- --------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 17:41:38 -0500
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: Converting points to HEI:

I did this with a hi-po HEI from the Carb Shop.  I have
been surprised at how much smoother the engine idles and runs--and I
always kept my points in good condition.  It starts and remains running
better in very cold weather.  Power feels higher but I have no proof
in terms of qrt mile times for this.  Likewise, for gas mileage--I've
got to believe its better but too many other variables, like winter weather,
would tend to swamp the benefit from an HEI.   I do get 16.5 MPG out of my
455, 3.23 car on the highway, cruising at around 2900 RPM.

>This system is
>$100, and I understand that the reliabilaty factor will be worth the money, but
>what can I expect in performance?   Any info would be great.

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 17:07:13 -0600
From: senator@itis.com (Robert F. Newbegin Jr.)
Subject: My engine number

Well, I scraped the layer of goo off the front of my engine, (I'm thinking
of getting the engine professionally steam cleaned, I'd appreciate any
input on that, too :¬)) and low and behold, the number 395558 and maybe a 2
or a Z a little past that.  I am not sure what that tells me, but the
engine surface appears to be a gold? kind of color (I cannot describe it
well, but it matches the gold Oldsmobile valve covers).  I don't know what
that tells me either.  Back to the goo...

Bob
'78 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 18:43:53 -0500
From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Repair Software

>     The software with which I am familiar is from a company called Diacom.
>     Their program has been on the market for a number of years and allows
>     you to connect a laptop to the ALCL and read out all of the
>     information.  It has an added advantage of being able to record these
>     readings for a few seconds at a time when you hit the space bar.

I use Diacom Plus at the racetrack, it is a great tool to have for fine tuning your car
and to find out what is going wrong. I use an old laptop computer and hook it up to my
ALDL in the Impala and it records each 1/4 mile run.  I am able to graph a number of
different varaibles and see what actually is going in with the motor and computer while
cruising down the track.  The software helped me pinpoint that my car was running
extremely rich, got that adjusted and it improved e.t's. I have a few Diacom runs saved if
anyone is interested. Be warned they are mostly Impala and Z/28 runs :-)

Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) Akron, OH
Quality Engineer - TRW Automotive Group, Inc.
95 DCM Impala SS      80 Olds 442 W-30
85 S-10 Blazer 4x4      75 Hurst/Olds W-25

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 16:23:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Chuck Martin <shortyg442@rocketmail.com>
Subject: cancel my subsciption

cancel my e-mail subsciption please.





_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 19:16:31 EST
From: KS7RACING <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: cc'ing with plate

I agree with the CC plate method, it works real well. If you want to cut down
the surface tension of water (for whatever reason), you might try what I was
told by a long-time racer a few years ago. They found that placing a SMALL
amount of dishwashing liquid into water did the trick. Not enough to cause it
to bubble, just enough to "smooth" out that pesky curve untreated water will
make. What they used it for was to enhance the cooling ability of plain water
in the radiator, since we have a "no anti-freeze" rule on our local asphalt
circle tracks. They said that if you lower the surface tension of the water,
it can transfer heat better. I tried it, and didn't have a problem with
overheating the entire season, and with the numerous times we had the engine
apart (cam change, head change, etc.), the cost of this "coolant" couldn't be
beat. 

Just my cent and a half,

Ken Snyder

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 19:22:31 EST
From: RUSO442 <RUSO442@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Repair Software

PLEASE GET ME OFF THE LIST THANK YOU

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 20:48:06 -0500
From: Jeff Verkleeren <jev114@psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Info on Alero

Jon

the manifold went out today UPS 7 bux shipping so mail me a check or money
order for 32 bux to

Jeff Verkleeren
186 Mt. Pleasant Rd
Belle Vernon, PA 15012

keep me posted on your Q4

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 21:24:11 -0500
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Olds Centennial on Motorweek

Just caught the latest episode of Motorweek (PBS) the other day and they
had a few minute spot on the centennial celebration.  They showed a '05
curved dash along with a mini interview with the owner.  Also showed a
'70 442 and another mini interview with the owner.  The rest was
assorted shots of the parade, parking lots and people.  It wasn't a lot,
but better than nothing.

- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 21:42:09 -0500
From: loris <loris@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Info on Alero

Jacobs, Steven G. wrote:
> 
> List:
> Hello, my name is Steve Jacobs.  I joined this list this morning.  I am
> looking for any information on the new Olds Alero.  Please forgive me if
> this topic has already been beat to death.  I am in the market for a
> daily driver and want to check it out.
> 
> I currently own a 1971 Cutlass Supreme Convertible.  I am the second
> owner having bought it ($300) when it was traded in at Blossom Chevrolet
> in Indianapolis in 1985.  The $300 price was partly due to the fact that
> my father ran the tower in the service department and I was prepping new
> Chevy's for the summer.  I actually won second place in a car show in
> 1987 after I had the interior and top redone, a new paint job (from
> green to red) and engine and transmission work.  The body needs to be
> done right at some point.
> 
> I have owned 4 cutlass's in my 16 years of driving.  My second car was a
> 1973 Cutlass S that I bought in 1982.  I drove it through High School.
> That car ended up being passed down through my fraternity at Indiana
> State University.  I then purchased a 1974 442 that still remains the
> car that I have driven the fastest.  (145 MPH).  I wrecked it (not my
> fault) and sold it to a friend who also wrecked it (his fault). I ended
> up buying it back from the junk yard and selling the rims, tires, and
> stereo system.  I wanted to put the 445 in a boat (has anyone ever done
> this).  When I moved to the East Coast I told my parents to get rid of
> it.
> 
> Well that's my introduction.  In the future, I want to find a right
> fender for my 71 Cutlass, a fiberglass ram air hood and quarter panels.
> The car also has air conditioning and cruise control that needs repair.
> That's down the road though. In the meantime if anyone has information
> on the new Alero, I would appreciate a response.
> 
> I am also a member of the Oldsmobile Club of America and the Blue Gray
> Oldsmobile Club.   I currently live near Allentown, PA.
> 
> Steve Jacobs


Steve:

I travel to the General Motors Technical Center in Warren, Michigan and
have not seen much in the way of the Alero.  Only at the North American
Auto Show last year.  Even then it was only a concept vehicle. My
brother works at the Mid/Lux division and he has seen nothing.

- -Loris

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1044
*********************************

