To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1050


oldsmobile-digest       Friday, January 9 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1050



Show Books
re; which later front brakes fit?
REPLY - Garage queen problem, 93 SCX
Front Suspension Rebuild Advice
Re: Who has a web site?
Re: Who has a web site?
Ice Storm
Re: 9 inchers
Trans for '85 Cutlass
Re: Re[2]: She Still Has Not Started! ('cause I'm lazy)
Re: manufacturer of panels
used qrts/ opinion?/ was re;brothers
Re: Some more mechanical questions.
Re[2]: A-Body Disk Brakes
Re: A/C Relay question for Dr. Barry!
455 HEADS
Strange probs (Was: She Still Has Not Started!)
Reo: 55 Olds Hard Starting
Re: FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro
Re: She Still Has Not Started! ('cause I'm lazy)
HEI Conversion
Re[3]: A-Body Disk Brakes
unsubscribe oldsmobile
Non Olds, disc brake ?
Date:Fri, 9 Jan 1998 16:11:30 -0500
Re: Garage Queen problem - 93 SCX
Re: Re[3]: A-Body Disk Brakes
re; hard starting '55 olds [one solution]
re: Front Suspension Rebuild Advice
Re: HEI Conversion
UPDATED PAGE
Re: Show Books
My Classic Car
Re: HEI Conversion
Re: NEW CUTLASS BODY STYLE
Re: Non-Olds: Need help finding Buick mail list
A-body frames
Loosening Harmonic Balancer
Re: Some more mechanical questions.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 10:15:04 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Show Books

For those who are interested in having a book put together on your car,
please e-mail me direct at scott.wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com, so we can
keep our administrator happy & conserve bandwidth!

I'll e-mail everyone who has responded so far directly as to what details I
need to get started!

Thanx!

Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 08:17:12 -0800
From: "dan cox" <peachyst@earthlink.net>
Subject: re; which later front brakes fit?

hello again everyone - i'm trying to make some improvements while i restore
my '63 holiday 88 coupe.  one of which would be to put newer discs and
spindles.  anybody know which car to rob at the boneyard?  other
suggestions for a mild street treatment?
the original 394 ci has been rebuilt and ran on the 'stand' and am planning
on some sort of electronic or hei ignition; also, switching to dual
exhaust.  let's see, what else...

thanks everybody - hope you're all having a good new year, even those of
you freezing your a***s off in the 'great white north' with the mackenzie
bros...so, take off hosers

well, we'll be sweltering in july at the nat'ls.
driver dan
los angeles

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 08:28:06 -0800
From: Jon Graham <jgraham@govsales.com>
Subject: REPLY - Garage queen problem, 93 SCX

Hey Mike, don't go and do anything drastic yet!  My 93 SCX had a problem with
the switch that disconnects the ignition unles the clutch is ALL THE WAY DOWN.
Acts just like you're describing.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 12:10:39 -0500 (EST)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Front Suspension Rebuild Advice

From the voice of experience I stongly recommend that anyone who is the
process of or thinking about rebuilding their front suspension and,
specifically, using polygraphite parts ie PST KIT that you replace ALL
suspension to frame mounting bolts at the same time.  These bolts are
still available from dealers for both the upper and lower control arms.
If your Olds dealer does not have them then try C***y dealers for the same
part.  "A" body cars used the same bolts.  The increased load that
stiffer bushings and larger sway bars places on the suspension can have
the nasty effect of snapping old bolts.  It is not a very comfortable
feeling for your vehicle to suddenly swerve right or left when one of the
bolts lets go. (Experience is the best education but not the cheapest
:-)) At the same time, check the bolt holes for obvious wear
and, if any is found, a little welding is necessary for safety.  At the
same time, make sure you retorque the nuts carefully as they will have a
tendency to loosen a bit particularly the upper control arm to frame
attaching bolts and the nuts on the control arm shaft.  Do this with
weight on the wheels... Good luck.

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 09:18:06 -0800
From: "mr. coy d. arbogast" <coyster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Who has a web site?

Hello there. My name is Coy better known as Rocket. We are currently
finishing pour web site for our business. We specialize in custom graphics
and stripe kits for older muscle cars. And we currently have 2 oldsmobiles
68 442 and a 77 cutlass.
We restore and race old muscle cars and just sometimes have fun. Also we
have a 65 Buick GS all original, a 64 STudebaker Daytona and a few others.
The web site will be under the name of ENGINEEREDGRAPHICS.COM
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Thanks Coy

- ----------
From: RC Hellebuyck <mrhell@sprynet.com>
To: Olds e-mail List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Who has a web site?
Date: Friday, January 02, 1998 10:25 AM

Mike K's recent post gave me an idea;

Let's hear from Olds list members who have their own web page!  I think it
would be great to inter-link the web sites of list members.  We would be
able to get to know more about the people we "type" to, plus in most cases
SEE their cars.

BTW, just to be sure we don't disrupt the Olds list, (and Greg's sanity),
all should respond or discuss this by private e-mail.

I'm game if you are...let me know!

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
1995 Achieva S

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 09:23:00 -0800
From: "mr. coy d. arbogast" <coyster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Who has a web site?

Hello Olds fans.
Glad to be on board.
we are currently finishing our web site and will be on line no later than
feb 1 1998
the address will be ENGINEEREDGRAPHICS.COM
The company name is ARS and we are associated wtih Coastal Digital out of
Las Vegas, NV We specialize in custom stripe kits from factory style to
custom. Plus a varity of other products and services. If we can be of any
assistance as far as links banners or you just need parts or graphics email
us ofr fax us a 702-396-7486 and in Febuary check out our Web Site
Thanks ROCKET
- ----------
> From: M&D Gillespie <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Who has a web site?
> Date: Friday, January 02, 1998 11:30 AM
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: RC Hellebuyck <mrhell@sprynet.com>
> To: Olds e-mail List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Friday, January 02, 1998 2:07 PM
> Subject: Who has a web site?
>
>
> Mike K's recent post gave me an idea;
>
> Let's hear from Olds list members who have their own web page!  I
> think it would be great to inter-link the web sites of list members.
> We would be able to get to know more about the people we "type" to,
> plus in most cases SEE their cars.
>
> RC,
> A lot of list members (24, so far, I think), belong to an Olds WebRing
> that Jason Adcock started. You can see the list at:
> http://www.webring.org/cgi-bin/webring?ring=oldsring&list
> or there is an icon for joining at the bottom of my Web page. It would
> be nice to get a lot more of the list members on the ring.
>
> Mick Gillespie
> 69 Cutlass S convertible
> OCAª 29770
> mgillespie@sprynet.com
> http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 11:22:32 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Ice Storm

Tim,

Are you running your screen by candle again?  That Yankee ingenuity is just
remarkable.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible

P.S.  Here's hoping that my northern neighbors keep warm with plenty of
electricity soon..



>
>BTW, I hope you folks north of the border get your power back soon.  Boston
>Edison sent something like 90 crews to help you with the damage from
>that 'orrible ice storm you've had/are having....
>
>
>
>Tim (Just Rain for the Past 6 Days in Boston) Churchill

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 23:49:28 -0500
From: tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us (Tony Waldner)
Subject: Re: 9 inchers

>Have you tried an 8.5" rear out of a H/O, 442 or buick GN?  Much stronger than


I have looked all over the place for one.  I am hooked up with a nation
wide parts locator called "Eden" in the hollander inventory and nothing
comes up.

I would LOVE to put in one of these rear ends just because of the simple
bolt in process. Anyone have any leads on one?

Thanks again --

Tony

70 442 W-30
70 Toro GT W-34
65 Jetstar 88 w/4-speed
85 Cutlass Salon 455 Drag Racer
92 Seville STS

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 09:52:56 PST
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Trans for '85 Cutlass

Hey gang,

My brother is now the proud owner of a 1985 Cutlass Supreme 4dr. The car
has a 307 with an automatic transmission. Reverse is kaput and he needs
to install a new one. I must sheepishly admit that my knowledge of these
cars is about zilch and I need to find out what model transmission as
well as a model and year spread that we can get another one out of.

thanks

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 13:13:12 -0500
From: Jim Hurd <jhurd@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: Re: Re[2]: She Still Has Not Started! ('cause I'm lazy)

At 10:42 AM 1/9/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
>     Karl,
>
>     After I wrote my earlier post on replacing the timing chain, I       >
thought I would comment on the timing chain failure mode.  I had this >
happen to me on a 70 Supreme with a 350.  I was driving along at a   >
slow speed in a residential area and the car just stopped running.   >
It would crank, and there was spark and fuel, but it would not even  >
pop or backfire.  I finally threw a timing light on the engine while >
cranking it, and lo and behold, the timing mark was about 90 degrees >
off!
>
>     Joe Padavano
>     padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>     66 442
>     68 W-30
>     69 H/O
>     70 W-30
>
>
        I had a similar experience on my way home for christmas break a
couple years ago.  I loaded up the '79 cutlass and headed home.  Got about
half way, and while I was going up a slight hill the car just up and quit. I
too had spark and fuel.  It was getting late so I hitched a ride with an 18
wheeler to the college that I transfered from and stayed with my buddies
there.  My dad came out the next day and we went back to the car, and still
could not get it started.  We hunted around for a garage ( I think it was
sat or sun?).  They came out and put it on a roll-back and took it to there
privateer garage.  They looked at it a little, thought maybe the cap/rotor
was bad, or maybe it too had jumped time.  They brought out their brand new
150$ dial back timing light, and hooked it up.  The light didn't work! They
started cussing about how the light was brand new.  They hooked it to a
different vehicle and it worked.  Put it back on my car and it wouldn't
work.  They put a used cap/coil on and it started right up and the timing
light worked.  I suppose a bad coil will make any timing light a piece of
junk. :-)




Jim H.
'87 Salon

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 13:13:11 EST
From: CRuper1 <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: manufacturer of panels

In a message dated 98-01-09 01:19:16 EST, you write:

<<
 New Center Stamping has the orig quarter dies.  I inquired about the use of
 them or buying them.  They told me that the dies are in pretty bad shape
 and would cost alot to retool.  So for now, no quarters are going to be
 stamped.

 I did talk to GM restoration about the panels and they said they still own
the
 dies, but they are at the New Center.  GM also said they were looking for
 somebody
 to revamp the dies.  In other words, invest the money to refurbish the dies
so
 that
 they could produce the 70-72 hardtop GM quarters.

 W MACHINES (Mark Prince) >>

These dies are quite large, and require alot of work to refurbish (welding,
machining, etc. if you just "clean up" the old ones.  There aren't many places
which have machinery that handles this type of work.  GM has had some "fits"
with a few of thier "old, and trusted" friends in the die industry (due to
some "tolerance discrepencies", etc.) and this may have something to do with
it, or that they place that manufactured them first is no longer in
business,which would require "extra" money to duplicate efforts which have
already taken place (essentially a new die for someone else).

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 13:08:56 EST
From: W30442CS <W30442CS@aol.com>
Subject: used qrts/ opinion?/ was re;brothers

chris, and the rest of the list, just what would you call a good used qrt?  i
have seen some people buy used qrts. with rust i thought was to far gone for
re use.  i have seen qrts. with very little rust ( quarter size ) that looked
tempting.  im just looking for broad based opinon from others like myself who
are going to, or have already had to deal with this problem.  i`ve been saving
some qrts. for my 70 cutlass that are in this very cond.      steven,
w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 13:16:02 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Some more mechanical questions.

>    I'm having a problem with the power steering in the 1987. When the =
>car is cold and I haven't driven it for a while, I find myself without =
>power steering until it decides to kick in down the road. (Which always =
>makes left hand turns exciting.) is this a common occurrence in this =
>model of car? How can I fix it? What is it?

Hmmm, is anything leaking? Sounds like a seal is leaking internally, until
it warms up. I don't know if that would be in the rack or the pump. Didn't
these cars have notorious problems with their rack and pinion systems?

>    The 1984 Has a problem that the blower fan in the heater wouldn't =
>shut off. Then when it got cold.. It shut off completely and wouldn't =
>turn back on. It must be the ground right? And my last question.. in the =

You mean that it's dead on all speeds? See if the connector to the motor
itself is loose. You could also jumper a heavy-gauge wire directly to the
blower motor to see if it runs. I doubt it's the switches, since there are
two entirely separate circuits for the blower motor; one for the three
lower speeds, and a separate one for the HI speed. Oh, the connection at
the blower motor relay (bolted to your A/C box on the firewall) might also
be loose, corroded or broken.

As for it always running, yes, that's normal, as long as the key is in the
RUN position, even when all functions are off. Well, it's normal for it
always to be running on LO; if it's always running on HI, then you've got a
problem.

>chiltons it says that I need a special tool to put the new rear-main =
>bearing seal (Which I know is a common leak in the 302 V-8's).. What =
>tool are they talking about?

Do you mean on the 307's? Whatever the case, there's a technique for
removing an upper rope-type seal with the crank in place; never had the
pleasure of trying it, though.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 13:08:59 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re[2]: A-Body Disk Brakes

>     Second, my understanding is that the early (four piston) rotors can be
>     used on the later (single piston) cars, but not the reverse.  The
>     reason is that the two rotors differ in the relationship of the rotor
>     face to the spindle, however the sliding single piston caliper can
>     accommodate this difference.  The fixed four piston unit will not.

Wait, is this backwards? If the single-piston caliper can accomodate this
discrepancy, then why can the 4-piston, which can't, work in either
application? I'd vote for the single-piston caliper as the more universal
candidate, since it will work with any rotor as long as it's situated over
the sliding pins. But I've never had to work with the 4-piston units
before, so maybe I'm missing something.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 13:06:17 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: A/C Relay question for Dr. Barry!

>On a related note, my 68 442 is an A/C car that has been liberated from
>it's compressor, I plan to buy a new compressor and redo the system
>eventually but, until then I only want to use the heater the few days
>needed down here in Dallas. My question is related to the A/C relayfrom
>this e-mail, is it necessary if the A/C compressor is not currently being
>used? Is anything else supposed to be connected to it (any heater
>connections?)? If not I'll just pull it until I can fork out the green for
>an A/C redo.

I'm not sure what was done to the wires; hopefully they were simply tied
back, and not cut. The only thing you'll need for your system to work sans
A/C is the controls intact, and the blower motor relay (right above the
brake master cylinder, on the firewall). The A/C compressor is activated
separately by the controls (you might here a little "click" when you move
the slider past the Normal and Recirc positions; that's the switch for the
A/C controls).

Here's hoping your wiring is intact!
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 13:29:04 EST
From: JMoakBOTH <JMoakBOTH@aol.com>
Subject: 455 HEADS

I am rebuilding my 455 for 71 cutlass convertible and I need a set of heads.
I would appreciate some suggestions as to what casting number 100, 686, 021 or
458 would be best for performance.  Also looking to buy.  I am located in
north Florida and would perfer something on this side of the world.

Thanks
Johnny
Jmoakboth@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 98 13:40:49 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Strange probs (Was: She Still Has Not Started!)

..I suppose a bad coil will make any timing light a piece of junk. :-)

     Along the lines of oddball problems, I had a devil of a time with a
     friend's V6 powered 75 Starfire (H-body).  The car would not start;
     there was no spark whatsoever.  I'm ashamed to admit that we replaced
     the coil and HEI module before finding out that the rotor had a carbon
     arc through the plastic under the center contact and was grounding out
     to the distributor shaft!  The rotor looked fine, so we didn't suspect
     it as a culprit until, is desperation, we replaced it.  We later found
     the offending short.  If my feeble memory serves, the bad rotor was an
     off-brand, so I guess it really is worth paying more for the
     OEM-quality parts.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 13:41:51 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Reo: 55 Olds Hard Starting

New fuel pump, rebuilt carb.
(Rochester 4 brl) timing, points, new fuel lines stood off all points of
engine 1 1/2 inches to elim. vapor lock - Nothing seems to help.   I would
appreciate very much if anyone with a any further ideas on solving hard
starting 55 olds would reply.   Thank You, rporter351@aol
- ----------
Does it crank at about the same speed hot or cold? If so, maybe the coil is
affected by the baking. Cool the coil with ice or snow to test that theory -
disconnect the battery for an extra measure of safety. Good luck!
- --
David Brown              Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com      OR     http://www.en.com/users/thall
    http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
  http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/zip/oldsfaq4.zip

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 09:13:46 -0800
From: "mr. coy d. arbogast" <coyster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro

Hello James this is Coy from Las Vegas.
We are heading to pomona this weekend to see how the market is doing and to
look for some parts.
Enjoyed the phone call and when we get back from pomona this weekedn I am
going to set down and send you some information and samples of what we
have.
Thanks Coy

- ----------
> From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro
> Date: Wednesday, December 31, 1997 5:40 PM
>
>                                           C&M Classic Parts
>                        1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
>                                 (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
>                                          <chermac@exis.net>
>
> Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm,  Sat 9:00 am - 6:00 pm,  Sunday
Closed
> *We accept all major Credit Cards. VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and
Discover.*
> Lots of new reproduction parts will be coming out in January-March 98.
>
>         66 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $1795.00
>         67 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $995.00
>         66 & 67 Track Pac kits (complete, just like the dealer option
includes;
>         shroud, ducts, hoses, cam/lifters, battery accessories) Mar/Apr
98.
>                 **** Items with an ** are 10% off thru Jan 98.
>
> New Parts:
> 66-67 442 4 Spd. Open Air Cleaner  $40.00
> 75 Omega Front Fenders (very nice pair)  $180.00 pr
> 75 Omega Bucket Seats (nice, maroon cloth)  $85.00 pr
> 65-67 442 Chassis (Rolling, 12 bolt, drums, with body shell)  $325.00
> 66-67 330/320 hp Cutlass Engine (80,000 miles, complete, runs good)
$375.00
> 65-67 400/425 Steel Crank (no pilot bushing hole, std)  $180.00
> 65-67 425 "D" Block std bore, small lifter bore  $150.00
> 350 Stick Cranks  $175.00 ea
> 66-67 442 "E" 400 cu in auto engine (apart, complete, std bore, nice)
$600.00
> **64-67 Power Steering Bracket  $15.00
> **64-67 Alternator Brackets (A/C car)  $20.00 set
> **69 442 LH Grille (good cond)  $45.00
> **69-72 4 Row Radiator Top Plate (nice)  $65.00
> 69-72 Ignition Switch (w/o tilt)  *new*  $24.00
> 69-72 Ignition Switch (w/tilt) *new*  $22.00
> 71 W-30 "TO" Code 10 bolt 3.73:1 anti-spin (date code '352 70') mint
$650.00
> 75 Hurst Olds (Hurst Hatches) no bags  $195.00 pr
> **70 LH/RH Hood "L" moldings (few small pits under side, nice) $95.00 pr
> **70 442/SX/Rally 350 Rear Cutout Bumper (CORE)  $110.00
> **70-72 Lower A/C Vents (for 8 Track car, mint, black)  $80.00 pr
> **70-72 Dash Pad and Dash Plastic (radio area, green, mint)  $185.00
> **67-68 Big Cars AM/FM Stereo (nice, works well)  $75.00
> **69-72  Bench Seat Headrests (black, mint)  $45.00 pr
> 68-72 Arm Rest Pad Bases (rear, post coupe, black)  $20.00 pr
> **68-72 Rear Defrost  (no switch)  $30.00
> **68-72 2 Door Chassis (coupe, solid)  $300.00 (you arrange shipping or
pickup)
> **69-72 Column Shift Steering Column (plain)  $45.00
> **69-70 Console Shift Steering Column (non-tilt)  $95.00
> 64-72 Power Window Motors  (excellent cond) $50.00 ea
> **70-72 455 Engine Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $40.00 pr
> **68-72 350 Engine Mount (NEW, Made in USA)  $38.00 pr
> **64-72 Jetaway/TH350, 4 Spd Trans Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $14.00
> **67-72 TH400 Trans Mounts (NEW, made in USA)  $17.00 ea
> (6) Hurst Wheels 14x6 (5 on 4 3/4) nice  $2300.00
> **70-75 Sport Steering Wheels (black, nice centers, complete)  $130.00 ea
>
> New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts 1964-1972 Cutlass/442
>
> **65 Cutlass/442 PO2 Deluxe Wheelcovers (N.O.S.)  $350.00
> **66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
> **68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
> **69 Cutlass RH Grilles (N.O.S.) $85.00 ea
> **70 Cutlass Supreme Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr
> **70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
> **71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr
> **71-72 Stone Shields (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea
> **71-72 Headlight Housings (plastic) (N.O.S.) $80.00 pr
> **72 Cutlass Supreme & Hurst/Olds Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr
>
> Used Parts:
> 64 Cutlass/442
> **64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $50.00
> **RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00

> **Front Bumper Core  $50.00

> **F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00
>
> 65 Cutlass/442
> **64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $50.00
> **65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  LH/RH rear $15.00 ea
> 65-(early) 66 Plain Full Wheel Covers (4, mint)  $30.00
>
> 66 Cutlass/442
> **64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $50.00
> **66 Cutlass Trunk Molding (very good)  $85.00
> **66 Cutlass Tail Light Bezels (very good)  $85.00 pr
> 65-(early) 66 Plain Full Wheel Covers (4, mint)  $30.00
> **66 Turbine Full Wheel Covers (4) good  $80.00 set
> 66 Cutlass/442 Side Chrome moldings (almost complete set) Inquire
> **66 F-85/Cutlass grille (nice)   $55.00
> **66 F-85/Cutlass grille (good)  $35.00
> **66 330 cu in 2 bbl engine (complete w/trans, 17,000 original miles)
$300.00
> **66-67 AM Radios (nice)  $30.00 ea
> 66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
> 66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
> **66 Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
> **Post Coupe Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr
> F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea
>
> 67 Cutlass/442
> **67 4 spd Speedometer Adapter (3.42 gears & 4spd)  $45.00
> 67 Cutlass Plain Full Hubcaps (4, mint)  $30.00
> **67 Plain Cutlass Holiday Hardtop interior door panels and rear sides
(very
> nice, blue/green) $85.00 set of 4
> **67 Cutlass Jetaway Trans (low miles, w/switch pitch converter)  $125.00
> **67 Cutlass/F-85 Grille Bar (very nice, no cracks, good chrome)  $45.00
> 67-69 Power Antenna assm (nice, no switch)  $45.00
> 66-67 Rear Side window lower U-seals (new, Metro Moulded)  $18.00 pr
> **67 W-30 Core Support (Factory stamped, bent on drivers side)  $225.00
> **67 Cutlass Hood (mint)  $100.00
> 67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea
> 67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.50 ea
> **67 Rear Defrost setup (w/switch)  $45.00
> **66-67 AM Radios  (nice)  $30.00 ea
> 66-67 RH Hardtop/Conv Doors (very nice)  $90.00 ea
> 66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
> 66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
> **67 F-85 Rear Bumper (very good condition)  $75.00
> **67 Front Bumper (straight, core)  $70.00
> **67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $50.00 pr
> 67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $90.00 ea
> 67 442 Pie Tin Decal  $3.00
> **67 RH Fender (small metal patch panel, straight)  $165.00
>
> 68 Cutlass/442
> **68-69 Cutlass/442 Post Coupe LH Door  $85.00
> 68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
> 68 Turn Signal Lens (mint)  $12.00 ea
> **68 Cutlass Rear Bumper (core)  $75.00
> **68-69 14x6 SSII Wheels (set of 5)  $200.00
> 68-69 Power Antenna Assm (no switch, has adapter, needs mast)  $25.00
> 68 AM Radio  $25.00
> **68  8-Track Unit (housing cracked, needs plastic one)  $65.00
> 68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
> 68-69 LH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $135.00
> 68-69 RH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $135.00
> 68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00
> Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set
> 68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00
> 68 Air Cleaner Stove Pipe (pipe only)  $10.00

> **68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $40.00 ea

> 68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea
> **68-72 B-Pillar Molding Sets (black, mint) $27.50 pr
>
> 69 Cutlass/442
> 68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
> **69 Rallye Pack (Gauge side only)  $75.00
> **69 Cutlass RH Grille (nice, used)  $40.00
> **69 442 RH Grille (nice) $50.00
> **69 Cruise Control Switch and Bezel  $25.00
> **69 Radiator Core Support 3 Row (mint, no rust holes)  $150.00
> **69 Tail Light Bezels (nice, pit free)  $135.00 pr
> **69 Trunk Lid (Conv, nice)  $175.00
> **69 Headlight Bezels  $60.00 pr
> **69 Lower Dash (radio area)  (nice)  $35.00
> 69 C/S Side Moldings (mint, no pits)  $15.00 ea
> 68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
> 68-69 LH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $135.00
> 68-69 RH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $135.00
> **69 Cutlass/442 Doors 2 dr Hardtop (mint pair)  $200.00 pr / $110.00 ea
> **69-72 Hood Hinges  $40.00 pr
> **69-70 "S" Hood Louver Chrome  $25.00 pr
> **69-70 "S" Hood Louver Moldiings  $25.00 pr
> 68-72 Windshield Molding Sets  $45.00 set

> 68-72 Fastback Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set
> **69-72 Floor Shift Steering Column (very good)  $95.00
> 69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
> **69 RH Fender (small nickel sized hole)  $200.00
> **69 Rear Bumper (V05 rub strip) one small ding  $135.00
> **69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $55.00 ea
> 69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $25.00 ea
>
> 70 Cutlass/442
> **70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
> **70 Std Auto console neutral safety switch w/bracket  $65.00
> 70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
> 70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
> 70 350 4 bbl Stick engine (complete, minus carb runs great)  $275.00
> **70 FLAT Fender RH (small metal patch panel installed nice)  $300.00
> 70 Cutlass Supreme Door Panels (black mint) 4 for $100.00
> **70 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
> **70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (excellent)  $115.00
> 70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
> 70-72 455 Std. Iron intake manifold (auto cars)  $55.00
> 70-72 Std. Auto Console Shift Lens  (repro)  $23.00 ea
> 70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea
> 70 RH Sport Mirror Shell  $40.00
> 70 F-85 Horn Button (cheap style wheel, excellent)  $10.00
> 70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00
> 69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00

> **69-70 "S" Hood Chrome Vents  $25.00 pr

> **69-70 "S" Hood Vent Moldings  $25.00 pr
> **70 "S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr
> **70 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $90.00
> **70-72 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
> **70-72 RH Fender (has small patch panel)   $185.00
> 70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens   $17.00 ea
> 70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens  $23.00 ea
>
> 71 Cutlass/442
> **70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
> **70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
> 70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
> 71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
> **71-72 Power Window Switches (nice)  $25.00 (4) button,  $10.00 singles
> **71-72 Fender RH (small metal patch in bottom)  $185.00
> 71 350 4 bbl Engine (complete, carb to pan, runs excellent) $250.00
> 71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
> **71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
> **70-72 C/S LH/RH Side Glass  $25.00 ea
> **71 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
>
> 72 Cutlass/442
> **70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
> **70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
> 70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
> 71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
> **71-72 Power Window Switches (nice)  $25.00 (4) button,  $10.00 singles
> **71-72 10 Bolt 2.56:1 (open rear)  $75.00
> 72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00
> **71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
> **72 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 10:56:01 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: Re: She Still Has Not Started! ('cause I'm lazy)

>I am long overdue for the chain swap. I actually
>aborted a swap attempt when I could not move the
>center bolt on the crank pulley! Anyone care to
>share a method of getting that sucker off w/o
>using an impact wrench? There are three holes
>next to each other in the side of the counter
>weight [...] Are these for insertion of a lever
>to stabilize the thing while heaving on the
>breaker bar?

No; as Dr. Barry says, they're for balancing. The
Official GM Proper Way of Doing Things sez to take
off the access cover to the flywheel and lock the
engine with a gadget of theirs that clips to the
flywheel teeth (or use a really big screwdriver
held by an assistant).

Keep in mind that it is indeed really tight --
torque spec for that bolt is in the neighborhood
of 150 ft./lbs. -- and you will need a way of
retightening it that much, as well as a means of
loosening it in the first place.

I did make use of those balancing holes on a P*ntiac,
but don't recall whether it had a rubber insert that
could have been sheared by this method, so it's up to
you if you want to try it:

Clip a 5/32" (I think it was) socket to a Craftsman
1/4" drive socket handle (I say Craftsman because if
you break it doing this, you'll get a free new one :-)
and drop the socket into the hole on the side of the
balancer. Swing the ratchet handle around until it
butts against the engine block, and it will stop the
crankshaft from turning as you attempt to crack the
big nut loose with a torque wrench or other big lever.

Swing the little ratchet handle around the other way
to lock the crankshaft again from the other direction
when torquing the big nut back down during reassembly.
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 14:05:41 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: HEI Conversion

The conversion to HEI is complete and the car has never run better. It
feels like I have 455 in there ;-). I highly recommend this conversion
to anyone who is still running points.

Starting, hot, or cold is instantaneous and it runs through the gears
(took it up to 5000 rpm max.) like a true muscle car ;-). I foresee
better gas mileage too, as a lot less throttle seems to be needed to
get up to cruising speed.
Things for a novice to watch out for, (thanks to all who helped me
out):

1. The 12 volt source has to be hot when the ignition is on, but it
must also be 12v at the start position (while cranking). I finally
ended up finding the IGN. position on my fuse panel and using that. If
your lettering is worn off the panel, try tracing back the old
resistance wire that want to the positive coil terminal on your old
setup. If that doesn't work, there is a diagram in the chassis manual,
that shows the fuse panel and all the connection locations. You could
also rin a second wire from the "R" terminal on the starter and you
will be sure you have 12V for cranking. You would just splice the two
together. Thanks to Mike for this info.

2. Bring the engine to TDC BEFORE taking out the old distributor. Do
it by taking off the dist. cap and jogging it over untill your rotor
is pointing at ª1 spark plug wire position. Confirm that your timing
mark on the balancer is also close to the 0 deg position on the timing
plate. If you can't see the saw cut, it might mean that the balancer
has to be replaced, or a repair sleeve installed. It might also mean
that your timing was out a mile to begin with.
When you install the new distributor, all you have to do is line up
the rotor at ª1 position and drop it in. Try to keep the vacuum
advance cannistor in roughly the same position as the old one.
This is a whole lot better than trying to find TDC with your thumb
over the ª1 spark plug hole.

3. If you go with a junkyard, GM HEI, make sure everything is working.
The best bet is to get a new (rebuilt) one and also buy a new cap,
coil and rotor. Oh yeah, get the connector for the 12v source and the
tach to plug into and also the ground strap that fits under the coil
(this doesn't come with a rebuilt unit. so you'll have to go to the
bone yard.  If you grab the whole cap, it's easy to see how the new
one should hook up and they probably won't charge more than $5.

4. The info on how to do this conversion in the FAQ is clear and
accurate (after I've done it). The only problem is, it assumes you
know something about the job. I was ignorant enough that I had
problems with very basic stuff.

5. Finally, clean all of your electrical connections thoroughly and
apply some dielectric grease. Even if they look clean, don't assume
they are. I even had to replace my negative ground connector on the
battery cable. It looked perfect from the outside but was dirty and
out of round enough that it wasn't getting a consistantly good
connection. My cranking power doubled when I replaced it.

The instructions for changing to an internally regulated alternator
are very clear in the FAQ; but then again this went smoothly for me.
If anyone has questions on this I'll try and answer them.

The beauty of this whole episode is that thanks to the list, Bob,
Mike, Lloyd etc., I feel great about this accomplishment, and I'll now
be able to help others that have the same problems as I did.

Thanks again.

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S convertible
OCAª 29770
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 98 14:00:33 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[3]: A-Body Disk Brakes

>     Second, my understanding is that the early (four piston) rotors can be
>     used on the later (single piston) cars, but not the reverse.  The
>     reason is that the two rotors differ in the relationship of the rotor
>     face to the spindle, however the sliding single piston caliper can
>     accommodate this difference.  The fixed four piston unit will not.

Wait, is this backwards? If the single-piston caliper can accomodate this
discrepancy, then why can the 4-piston, which can't, work in either
application?

     Bob,

     I think we are in violent agreement, though I apologize if my working
     is confusing.  What I thought I said was that the rotors from the four
     piston setup _will_ work with the single piston calipers (on the 69-72
     cars) because the single piston calipers do, in fact, slide to
     accommodate the difference in the rotors (as you correctly noted).

     Since the four-piston calipers do not slide, the rotors for the single
     piston application will not work on the 67-68 cars (again, as you
     correctly point out).

     As I noted originally, "...my understanding is that the early (four
     piston) _rotors_ can be used on the later (single piston) cars, but
     not the reverse."  Sorry if I wasn't completely clear.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 22:53:27
From: Chris Matthes <cdogg73@elknet.net>
Subject: unsubscribe oldsmobile

unsubscribe oldsmobile cdogg73@elknet.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 98 10:07:00 PST
From: Jeff Dick <JEFFREY.A.DICK@cpmx.saic.com>
Subject: Non Olds, disc brake ?

Here is  a ? and observation on disc brakes.

My wife drives a 97 Tarus (not my choice) with 4 wheel disc and abs

I was told by someone that the disc brakes self adjust when the parking
brake is set, and if one never uses their parking brake (which she doesnt)
you will get premature wear of the brakes.  Is this in fact the manner in
which disc brakes self-adjust?

I also noticed that the car has a lockout and will not start when the
parking brake is on, which seems totally backwards to me,  I am (was) always
under the assumption that if one was using the parking brake to relieve
stress on an automatic transmission one would follow the following sequence
(especially on a hill)

1) stop car, keep brake on
2) set parking brake
3) place transmission in park.

then

1)Start car
2)place foot on brake
3)shift into gear

It seems that if one cant start the car with the parking brake on, that
 when you take the parking brake off before starting you are placing the
stress on the transmission anyway.  Even if my wife presses on the brake, I
doubt it has the same holding power as when the car is started since they
are power brakes.

Thoughts, observations, insights?

P.S.  For those who remember my car being stolen in November, I am finally
getting it back from the dealer next week.  Will let you know the rest of
the story at that time.

Jeff Dick
86 Olds Salon
jeffrey.a.dick@cpmx.saic.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 16:11:30 -0500
From: "Jonathan Eaton" <je@outraged.com>
Subject: Date:Fri, 9 Jan 1998 16:11:30 -0500

unsubscribe oldsmobile-digest je@outraged.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 15:49:09 EST
From: Nascarnut5 <Nascarnut5@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Garage Queen problem - 93 SCX

Mike wrote:

<<<Hi Folks.

Not to drive you away from the body panel discussion, but I was wondering if
you could point me in the correct direction towards diagnosis of a problem I
developed on my '93 SCX.

Earlier this week, I decided to start my SCX and let it idle for a few
minutes to keep the battery charged.  It hadn't seen the road since early
December, and not driven regularly since October...  It started fine, idled
for a few minutes, and I shut it off.  Ran like it normally does.

Well, my wife doesn't necessarily agree with my leaving the car sit when it
rains or during the winter months (don't want any salt on it, and it has
performance tires (read not good in anything but dry) on it).  She began
pestering me to drive it so.....  I figured I'd drive it today to work.
Well, I hopped in, put the key in, turned it...... and not a sound came from
the starter.  Hmmm....  Dead battery?  Well, the lights inside were bright,
and the wipers worked to clear the morning dew.  I grabbed the jumper
cables, pulled the 442 up, hooked them together, and....  nothing.

I then decided to spend a few minutes trying to narrow down the problem.
Here's what I've tried.  Maybe it'll be a clue to somebody...  I
disconnected the 442, turned on the headlights on the SCX and tried again -
lights stayed bright and silence.  The fuel pump run when I turn the key, so
there's plenty of juice.  I've tried to start it with the lights on, dome
light, heater fan on high, and radio on - all keep working when the key is
turned.  Battery is 1 year new (and clean).  I'm leaning towards a problem
with the starter...  The car has a little oxidation problem on the aluminum
pieces under the hood, so I plan on cleaning the cables (and connectors)
going to the starter before digging in a little further.  Starter is in the
front of the engine, so it's easily accessible.  I remember my dad rapping
on the starter in his D88 with a hammer a few times when I was younger when
he had problems starting it and the battery is good and still failing --
does this ever work?

The car has 32,000 miles on it, and I've never had a problem with a starter
before - is this normal for cars that sit a lot?  Could there be something
in the starter that I could open it, clean it, and re-install it to see if
it works?  I really don't want to pay someone to fix it, or for a new part,
if I don't have to.

I'm on the digest, so if you could cc: me at mike.coccagna@envirosense.com
with any replies, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the help in advance,

Mike
'91 W40+ 442
'93 W41 SCX (no workie)>>>

I wrote:

Mike,

I know this is a weak suggestion, but here goes.  My 1991 W-41 has in the past
(as long as I rememeber) had a situation of when I 1st try the key it won't
start.  Nothing.  But if I release the clutch and re-engage it, it starts
fine.  Maybe the clutch switch at the pedal.  But the weird thing is: I can
get the same results by backing off the ingition switch and re-starting.  I
don't understand it.  It don't happen often, so I'm not concerned yet.

Let me know what you find out please.  I'm always wanting info on Q4 problems!

Thanks Mike!
Steve
Nascarnut5@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 13:45:32 PST
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re[3]: A-Body Disk Brakes

Hey, Hey, Whoa!
I wasn't meaning to start a controversy. What I meant was simply that
aftermarket companies like raysbestos etc. make a single application
rotor to fit 67-72. They don't make the individual ones, just a fits all
that works.

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S

>
>>     Second, my understanding is that the early (four piston) rotors
can be
>>     used on the later (single piston) cars, but not the reverse.  The
>>     reason is that the two rotors differ in the relationship of the
rotor
>>     face to the spindle, however the sliding single piston caliper
can
>>     accommodate this difference.  The fixed four piston unit will
not.
>
>Wait, is this backwards? If the single-piston caliper can accomodate
this
>discrepancy, then why can the 4-piston, which can't, work in either
>application?
>
>     Bob,
>
>     I think we are in violent agreement, though I apologize if my
working
>     is confusing.  What I thought I said was that the rotors from the
four
>     piston setup _will_ work with the single piston calipers (on the
69-72
>     cars) because the single piston calipers do, in fact, slide to
>     accommodate the difference in the rotors (as you correctly noted).
>
>     Since the four-piston calipers do not slide, the rotors for the
single
>     piston application will not work on the 67-68 cars (again, as you
>     correctly point out).
>
>     As I noted originally, "...my understanding is that the early
(four
>     piston) _rotors_ can be used on the later (single piston) cars,
but
>     not the reverse."  Sorry if I wasn't completely clear.
>
>     Joe Padavano
>     padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>     66 442
>     68 W-30
>     69 H/O
>     70 W-30
>
>
>
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 13:55:35 -0800
From: "dan cox" <peachyst@earthlink.net>
Subject: re; hard starting '55 olds [one solution]

i've had an electric fuel pump installed in my '61 lincoln.  it now starts
easily.  before, i had trouble starting and trouble keeping it running.  it
would stop at odd unexplained times.  i tried everything to solve a vapor
lock problem.

the instructions recommend installing at the fuel tank.  but my mechanic
put it up near the mechanical pump.  i hear the logic is that it is more
efficient at pushing fuel than to suck fuel froma distance.  so far,
though, it seems to work ok.  i'll keep you posted.

driver dan

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 15:52:23 -0800
From: Darrin Johnson <xdarrinj@dpcmail.itg.ti.com>
Subject: re: Front Suspension Rebuild Advice

- --BeyondBoundary_2_Fri_Jan_09_15:52:24_1998__4823
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit


>  From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>, on 1/9/98 11:29 AM:
>

>  At the same time, check the bolt holes for obvious wear
>  and, if any is found, a little welding is necessary for safety.
>
>  Al Varhus
>  Columbus, Ohio
>  http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
>

I have recently replaced a damaged upper control arm on my 72 Cutlass
convertible.  Unfortunately, I discovered that a previous owner had stripped
out the ridges in the bolt holes that keep the mounting bolts from turning in
the frame bracket.  I was assuming that this would be an inconvience during an
alignment or other service, but now I am concerned that it might also be a
safety issue.  Any ideas?  Any suggestions on how to repair?


Darrin Johnson
1972 Cutlass Convertible


- --BeyondBoundary_2_Fri_Jan_09_15:52:24_1998__4823
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: X-UUENCODE
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
?            071T86-H;65N="!ª;W5N= 0

end

- --BeyondBoundary_2_Fri_Jan_09_15:52:24_1998__4823--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 14:02:13 -0800
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: HEI Conversion

Hey Mick,

How much did it cost you (time and $) to convert to HEI?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 17:28:34 -0500
From: Dan Miller <dsm137@gti.net>
Subject: UPDATED PAGE

THE SQUEAKY POCKETS PAGE IS UPDATED, PLEASE VIEW AND REGISTER IN THE GUEST
BOOK!!!!!

DAN.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 17:42:38 EST
From: Bowtie911 <Bowtie911@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Show Books

Scott, I would be interested also

bowtie911@aol.com
65 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 17:49:44 EST
From: BobH592058 <BobH592058@aol.com>
Subject: My Classic Car

As noted before, I am relegated to scanning the digests. So this is somewhat
delayed.

I would like to congratulate Larry Polesnak and Mark Prince for their win and
second place on the MCC picture contest.

Believe it or not, if my car wasn't also in the running, I would have split my
vote as well to both those cars. Of course!

It's great the Olds' won!  Wake up the masses that are more than C*evies &
F*rds out there!

Bob Handren
OCA/OCFª 7728
'67 W-30 Modified     '70 SX Convertible
Oviedo, FL

Handren Associates, Inc.
FDA Medical Device Regulatory Affairs
Laser/Optical Radiation Safety
(407)365-6385

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 17:56:20 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: HEI Conversion

- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, January 09, 1998 5:11 PM
Subject: Re: HEI Conversion


>Hey Mick,
>
>How much did it cost you (time and $) to convert to HEI?
>
>Chris Sparks

Chris,
I spent about $220 in total. Time was about 4 hours total. Would have
been about two hours less if I hadn't spent so much time trying to
make it work with only a "run" position 12V source.

Dist. $150
Coil, cap and rotor $25
R46SX plugs (AC) $16
HEI wires $25
Cap and plug from junk yard $5
(took the cap just to get the ground strap under the coil).

If you want to chance a junk yard distributor you can probably get it
(complete), for less than $40.

Oh, and if you don't already have an internally regulated alternator,
you'll need to buy one of those. I think they're about $35 to $40
rebuilt (usually with $15 core charge rebate).

Even with all new parts it was worth it to me.

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S convertible
OCAª 29770
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 18:23:41 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: NEW CUTLASS BODY STYLE

terrywiles@usa.net wrote:
>
> What the heck happened to the new Cutlass'?   I for one am not really
impressed with > the new style, anyone else?   The Intrigue has more body
styling.   They should have > kept the sporty styling that they have had for so
many years in the Cutlass.   Maybe > this is just another couple of year lull,
like when they were almost the same as the > Grand AM.

I was not impressed at first with them either, but they grow on ya...  I
think it would be wicked if Olds stuck their Aurora powerplant, or the
"new Aurora 6" with a 5Spd, and some T-Tops, maybe even a Convertible,
but only in two door versions for both.  With that combo, I'd think
twice about snagging an Intrigue.  <G>
- --
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
- - Here we go Steelers!!!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 18:26:04 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds: Need help finding Buick mail list

Matt Cremean wrote:
>
> A freind of my father has a '53 Buick that he's restoring. He needs some
> parts for it and I thought somebody might have an addy for a mail list
> that would cater to that. Anybody?

My page has a link to the Buick Mailing list...  They specialize in the
T-type, and Turbos, but the guy said all welcome...  It's under my
Olds/Links page...  Not on the main links off the main page, yet, but
under the Olds Rocket Bay...  All the info is a link from the guys
page...

Good luck!
- --
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
- - Here we go Steelers!!!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 18:32:13 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: A-body frames

Rocket folks,

O.K. jeopardy fans, for 200, does anyone know the difference in the
big block and small block 67' A-body ragtop frames. More specific, the
TH400
equipped GTO's 442's and such.


Mark

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 17:31:28 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Loosening Harmonic Balancer

Andy,

I have avoided using a helper to lock the flywheel by the use of a long
breaker bar on the large harmonic balancer bolt.  I then shock the bolt by
using a hammer on the breaker bar.  This keeps the crank form turning much
and has a similar effect as using an air wrench with it's shocking effect.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 18:35:55 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: Some more mechanical questions.

> Jonathan Eaton wrote:
>
> Dear all with an Olds 98 around the year of 1987; (And those with an
> '84-88 in parts in your garage.) :)
>
>     I'm having a problem with the power steering in the 1987. When the
> car is cold and I haven't driven it for a while, I find myself without
> power steering until it decides to kick in down the road. (Which
> always makes left hand turns exciting.) is this a common occurrence in
> this model of car? How can I fix it? What is it?

Does it feel choppy before it "kicks" in??  If so, I think that would be
classified as "Morning Sickness" for the car, that's when the rack is
having a hard time moving the fluid, I think....   I can say my dad's 87
Skyhawk did this, and did it good...  I learned to drive thinking cars
were supposed to jerk like that..  <G>.  My 78 LeSabre would do the same
thing as well, but it was not rack, it was pump, and it would do it only
when the fluid level was low, or I had the pump disconnected...  It
leaked a quart of P/S fluid per 100 Miles...  The hoses were shot...

> And my last question.. in the chiltons it says that I need a special tool to
put the
 > new rear-main bearing seal (Which I know is a common leak in the 302
> V-8's).. What tool are they talking about?

Leads me into my Question...  302?  As in Ford?  Chevy? <G>  I didn't
think Olds had a 302, they got a 307, weak, but working....  <G>
- --
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
- - Here we go Steelers!!!

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª1050
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