
oldsmobile-digest      Monday, January 26 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1072



K somthin Racing Web Site - Where are you?
Re: My 200-4R info wanted...
Re: option codes
re 200-4r build up
QUESTION
Web Page Arena
Parts stuff (updated)
Re: option codes
Correction to FS: 86 442 Conv.
FS: '86 442 CONVERTIBLE
Re:  Internal Engine Paints
76/77 Cutlass Grills on eBay
Re: Extinct Dash Lights
Wanted
U.S. Body Source Info (fwd)
Re: 50 Olds needs more help
Re:Recently rebuilt engine problems
425 Super Rocket specs.
Re: J&M in CA
Re: Ya never guess
Wanted forged 455 crankshaft nonground condition
455 forged crank
1967 Read End
200-4R Posting...
Re: PowerTrax   Was: Axle Ratio
W-MACHINES Web Page
Re: Weatherstripping
Re:  Th-2004R ?
Parting Strip Adhesive
Re: Webpage update
Re: Minor Details on 70 442
Fan Shroud Swap
Re: 4 spd auto shifter wanted ...86 salon
SuperBowl Finale
Oldsmobile Decals For Sale (01/26)
FYI: 1975 Oldsmobile Options (long)
'68-9 mirror screw removal
260 vs. other sb's
short stroke 403?
(Non OLDS) Anybody have Jeff Antonucci's address??
11.5 sec. 307!
1000 cid small block
330 notes
gas tanks store
tools
Re: Internal Engine Paints
Doug Kitchener

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 11:30:30 -0500
From: Brad Nicholson <brad442@erols.com>
Subject: K somthin Racing Web Site - Where are you?

All,
'Bout a month ago my PC crashed, specifically Win95.  I had to reformat
my disk eventually but lost some messages & of course my address book.

I was starting to update the links to the OCA Web Site Links this
weekend and wanted to add a couple. One was for a race team in Kansas I
believe that had a SCCA Pro Solo Starfire and 2 NASCAR stockers.  I
elieve the gentleman is on the list.  If you are,please drop me a line
w/ your e-mail & web site info.  

OCA Site changes coming on 2/1/98  will have it's own URL by 2/14/98,
PLUS A LOT MORE STUFF!  Later.

 ---  Brad Nicholson (OCA's WebGuy)
| | | 1987 442 W-42
| | | 1994 Eighty-Eight LSS
|/|\| Oldsmobile Centennial Club - MD
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America #18984
 ---  e-mail: brad442@erols.com
OCC Home Page: http://www.erols.com/brad442/occ
OCA Home Page: http://www.erols.com/brad442/oca


.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 11:41:13 EST
From: StafRT007 <StafRT007@aol.com>
Subject: Re: My 200-4R info wanted...

If you don't mind, would you send me that info on the 2004R?  Thanks for the
help.

Ryan

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 11:49:54 -0500 (EST)
From: ted rollins <trollins@rfci.net>
Subject: Re: option codes

At 09:46 PM 1/24/98 -0800, you wrote:
>Kurt Heinrich wrote:
>> 
>> ...What are we going to do with you?
>> This information is in the OLDS FAQ! You DO have a copy, don't you?
>
>I am not worthy! :-)  Shoulda checked that out. Sorry
>
>Chris Sparks
>
>Where is the OLDS FAQ?? The only one I have seen is on www.442.com Is this
the one you are talking about?

Ted Rollins

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 08:58:11 -0800 (PST)
From: Jack Karamanos <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: re 200-4r build up

could you please send me a copy of the 200-4r build up you were
discussing. please send it to my kids address as i can print it out from
there
hikara@u.washington.edu

tia

47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 13:23:23 EST
From: LRDOFLORDS <LRDOFLORDS@aol.com>
Subject: QUESTION

I  AM REBUILDING MY 77 CUTLAS AND I NEED A GOOD NEW ARE USED 350 ARE 455 WHERE
DO I GO?
THANK YOU
JUSTIN

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 13:49:02 EST
From: W MACHINES <WMACHINES@aol.com>
Subject: Web Page Arena

Since everybody is throwing there hat into the Web Page Arena.  I have created
my own Page also.  I have had this page for about a month and a half and I
have been updating it often.  There is more constuction in process, but check
it out and email me with comments good or bad.  I am always trying to improve
myself.  This is my 
first attempt at creating web pages and I am uising AOL's personal publisher
2.

So thanks for the bandwidth and have fun viewing.
access through here  <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/WMACHINES/index.html">W
MACHINES's Home Page</A> or
http://members.aol.com/wmachines/index.html

Thanks W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
1972 442 W-30 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 14:09:34 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Parts stuff (updated)

PLEASE 
E me direct and
I'll get back to you A.S.A.P

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com

1968
Front side markers                                       $15 ea
Rear side markers                                       $15 ea
442 Air cleaner                                             $75
4 sp. console (standard shift)                      $275
C casting heads  (complete)                         $175
Ashtray Door                                               $10
Convertible top cylinders                              $45 ea.
Rear defroster switch                                    $25
Motor mount heat shield                               $8
Conv. Top latches                                           $40.pr
Conv. Vent windows with frames good chrome   $60.pr.
Reverse light lens good condition                     $10
Rear defroster Switch                                      $20
Tail lights                                                          $20ea
Reverse Light Lens                                          $8

1969
442 Grills exc.                         $190
AM radio with knob and mounting plate                $40
Cutlass Grills                           $90
SSI's   code JK 14x6 set of 4   $100
Wiper switch                            $40
Radio plate (uncut)                   $20
Rear defroster Switch & wiring             $25
Plastic headlight frames            $75
Dash pad (gold)                        $90
T handle  (that opens hood)      $10
Ashtray Doors                           $10
Convertible top cylinders           $45
Convertible top pump                $60
Hood Hinges                             $35
442 Ashtray door with woodgrain Exc.    $15
Motor mount heat shield             $8
Conv. Top latches                      $40.pr
Front Bumper -- core quality only   $75
1968-69 C Castings 400 or 455 heads
Complete                                $175
Vacuum trunk switch                  $25
Taillight lens and some housings  $15 ea
Nos Reverse Light Lens W/Box      $20

1970
Tail light lens (Cutlass)            $12 ea
Tail light lens (Supreme)         $15 ea
Nos fender script "Cutlass"      $30 ea
Nos Horn Contact (sport wheel)      $20 ea
Nos 442 emblem sets (both sides, front tooth and trunk lid)    $225 
F85 fender script                     $30 pr.
Rear side marker lights            $15 ea
70 442 bumper  core                     $150
Ashtray Doors                                $10
Dash Plaques (Plastic around gauges W/ wood grain)      $20
70-72 Cutlass wagon dash pad  Black (No Vent Holes)   $150
Convertible top cylinder                $45
Hood Hinges                                  $35
Motor mount heat shield                 $8
Conv. Top latches                          $40.pr
455 heads E casting                       $150
Convertible Top Switch                  $60
Convertible Top switch Bezel          $25

1971 & 1972
Nos headlight frames(plastic)         $75 pr.
Front bumper directional lens         $10 ea.
Tail light lens                                 $12 ea.
Power bench seat                          $100
Trunk lid script "O-L-D-S-M-O-B-I-L-E"          $30
Dash pad complete with lower plastic  (Black) Vgc.        $125
Dash pad complete with lower plastic	  (Blue)   gc.          $125
Dash pad complete with lower plastic	  (Green) gc.         $125
442 Grills good condition (with 442 emblems)                $200
Auto Console (Brown)                                                    $90
71-72 Rocker Chrome good/c                                         $60
T handle  (that opens hood)                                            $10
Ashtray Doors                                                              
 $10
Dash Plaques (Wood Grain area around gauges)            $10
71-72 sport mirrors w/brackets                                        $75
70-72 Cutlass wagon dash   pad  Black                           $150
Convertible top cylinders                                                
$45
Convertible top pump                                                     
$60
Hood Hinges                                                                
 $35
Rear ŧ panel supreme extensions                                   $15
Motor mount heat shield                                                 $8
Conv. Top latches                                                         
$40.pr
Seat belt shoulder harness,   plastic hangers                   $15.pr.
1971 455 Cylinder heads Casting G                                      $150
1972 455 Cylinder heads Casting GA                                    $150
Nos Boxed Lower Control Arms ( MINT)                             $225

Shipping is extra 
Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
905-357-4454

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 14:11:34 EST
From: TFX FLYER <TFXFLYER@aol.com>
Subject: Re: option codes

 can anyone get me off this darn mailer loop,please delet me from list. thnxs
tfx

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 14:47:02 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Correction to FS: 86 442 Conv.

Connie's BEST FRIEND'S father originally owned the car.  Sorry bout
that.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 14:44:41 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: FS: '86 442 CONVERTIBLE

That's right, a 1986 442 convertible.  Connie Garrison evidently checked
my web page and sent me an e-mail to find out the best way to sell the
car.  Here's the rundown.  Again, usual disclaimers apply.  If I had the
extra money, that car would be mine right now.

Connie's father bought the car new, and sent the car to FL for the
conversion.  It is now in Dayton, OH.

Connie bought the car to keep the car from going to strangers.

The car won shows at Gem City Rockets meets. (Any of you Gem City Rocket
members may know the car/owner)

Black/silver/burgundy interior. 20K miles. MINT MINT MINT. Looks/drives
like new.  Always garaged and covered. Never seen rain.  $12,500

This is all I know.  For more info, contact Connie at CLGARRISON@aol.com

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 15:21:38 EST
From: Oldsparts <Oldsparts@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  Internal Engine Paints

A long, long time ago (like back when we were still fightin' the indians) I
worked for a year or two as an outboard motor mechanic.  Some friends I worked
with at the time were into dirt track racing.  During this time frame I built
a few Ch**y (read FOREIGN car) "stroker" motors for them.  I don't recall
where I got the idea from, but I used to "debur" (grind away the sand casting
porosity) the lifter valley areas of the blocks and paint them with a special
coating that was, as I recall, called "GLYPTOL".  Glyptol was a General
Electric product, that was, I think,  marketed by General Electric to be used
as a coating of some kind in electric motors.  I remember looking all over
hells half acre to find the stuff, but can't recall just where we did get it.
I don't think I ever used it to coat the inside of the oil pans although I
think it would have worked well for that.  It was a primer red like color but
was not primer.  I would be leary of using just plain primer.  The glyptol was
tough as nails and would not boil or hot tank off.  Do any of you have any
experience with this product?

Sincerley For Oldsmobiles,
Steve Kenny
Brothers Automotive Products
www.oldsparts.com
800-442-7278

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 15:47:55 -0500
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: 76/77 Cutlass Grills on eBay

Hey all,

Who was it the other day was looking for these grills?  Go here:

http://iguana.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4946897

and someone has a pair on auction.  Minimum bid is $4.  Just thought I'd
pass it along.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

Why do they call it a TV set when you only get one?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 16:05:43 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: Extinct Dash Lights

> On his 1976 "droop snoot" Cutlass "S" 4dr hdtp (in which I learned to drive
> [by the seat of my pants.....]) the dash lights went out in approx. 1987. I
> had heard something like; they went out because the dash lights were in
> _series_ (emphasis definately added). I personally tried to swap a new light
> control (headlight/int/dimmer) switch with no change in the situation. I
> actually removed the two bulbs that illuminated the spedometer, but could not
> tell if theyhad burned out or not (the other bulbs were too difficult to
> reach...)
> KA and SOM

I recently had the same sad experience of my dash lights going out on my '76
Monte Carlo.  I didn't know what it was at first either, but since ALL the lights
were out, I knew it had to be something other than the bulbs - they are not
hooked up in series like some of the old Christmas lights - they are parallel,
meaning you can have one burn out without affecting the others.  What I found it
to be was the fuse for the dash lights.  Don't bother looking at the big 3/4"
long fuses on the panel, it's not those.  It's the really really REALLY short
fuse at the bottom of the fuse panel.  You can only see a few millimeteres of
glass in the fuse it's so small, but has the standard-sized metal ends.  You'll
know the one I'm talkin about when you see it.  I'm not certain who'd sell those,
probably any auto-electric supplier - I've just got a paperclip in mine for now
:)  (needed a "quick-fix")

Hope this helps.
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
468 BigBlock '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 17:04:34 -0800
From: JFOWLER@capecod.net
Subject: Wanted

I'm looking for an original AM/FM stereo for a 69 442 conv. at a
reasonable price.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 17:03:19 -0500 (EST)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: U.S. Body Source Info (fwd)

By request - second posting


U.S. Body Source (where Dick Miller Racing orders his parts) is located 
at 9009 C.R. 325 Hampton, Fl 32044; 352-468-2203  (see ad in February 
1998 of Car Craft) Miller's catalog shows w-30 and w-30 w/air box hoods.
cowl induction, fenders, stock hoods, trunk lids etc. for 66 - 97.  ( 
again usual disclaimers) FYI shipping to Ohio was $45.00 +/-.

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio 
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
 
  

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 15:11:44 -0700
From: william goodnight <idaholc@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: 50 Olds needs more help

At 10:56 PM 1/24/98 EST, you wrote:
>Hi Gang
>
>
>Also, does anyone know of, or have info on, a complete rear end swap for 50
>olds.  I cant find any of my old books on this and its been a long while
since
>doing this. The easiest if I  recall, would be an early Pontiac.
>
>Mike:  Why would you want to change the rear end?  I am running my stock
3:64 with a 455 engine.  There are other third member options.  1951-54
Pontiacs running a hydramatic had 3:08 gears that slip right into the '50
housing.  The '50 Olds rear end is so strong, it was a favorite with AA Gas
Dragsters in the "70's.

 
Bill Goodnight
Goodnight & Associates, Inc.
idaholc@primenet.com
1014 E. Franklin
Boise, Idaho
(208)345-0158

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 17:51:48 -0500
From: Miguel Morales <Miguel.Morales@mci.com>
Subject: Re:Recently rebuilt engine problems

I had a car with a long duration cam hydraulic lifters and it would
occasionally slap a valve when after long cranking times allowing for
lifter bleed-down. This happened the same day after bringing it home
after the cam swap. The slap would continue after starting unless I did
something quickly thereafter to eliminate the noise. I just floored it
in neutral for about a second and the noise would disappear. The car at
the time was non-Olds
Mopar 340.

84 H/O
85 Ch*vy Camaro
88 Bu*ck T/Type
72 D*dge Charger 440

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 15:35:34 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: 425 Super Rocket specs.

Bob, I'm late getting back to you on this as I had to do some resource
checking.  It seems that all "official" specifications including AMA specs
show all '65 A heads having 2.00" intakes. Parts books show the Starfire
getting one valve and  the 442s and all other 425s getting another.  It
seems though, that there may have been a mid year introduction of a larger
valve.  I've heard of a 2.06.  I have a number of A heads, I'll measure the
valves.  I'd be interested in anyone elses experience  with big valve
''65s. 

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: JWO
> Date: Sunday, December 07, 1997 11:08 PM
> 
> >I have not recieved any direct comments about the 425 cid Super Rocket
specs
> >(and I am incredibly far behind in my digests [catch up this weekend?])
so I
> >am assuming they were taken at face value. 
> 
> Read them, and look forward to seeing them in the FAQ.
> 
> >Mind you, Given those BV vs. SV "E"-block posts, I toyed with the notion
that
> >mayhaps the "A" block had big and small valves.
> >
> >Of course, common sense got the better of me. The first big valves were
in the
> >1966 "B" heads on the first Toronado cars. This may have been
intentional, to
> >compensate for the relatively poor flow of the lo-rise manifold.
> 
> Well, two 1965 engines that I had always assumed came with the 2.07"
intake
> valves were the 442's 400ci motor, and the Starfire/Jetstar I's
> high-performance 425. Maybe these engines were later introductions, and
thus
> their specs don't show up in the shop manual?
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 17:20:13 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Re: J&M in CA

How about the "dealer option" rally stripe for the '65 & ''66 442?

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: mr. coy d. arbogast <coyster@earthlink.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: J&M in CA
> Date: Saturday, January 24, 1998 6:53 PM
> 
> Hello Olds fans.
> We have finally got our Web Site up and running.
> The site is engineeredgraphics.com. If you have problems referencing it
> email me to let me know.
> We would like to hear from other olds fans to create links to there
pages.
> We will be doing and update next week with our 68 442 and the stripes
that
> we sell and we are currently working on a 76 442 stripe kit also.
> If there is any kind of stripe or logo you would like to see email us.
> Also if you decide to us our service and say you saw our web site you get
a
> 10% price dicount. And just for having an Olds you will get an additional
> 5% off.
> Thanks
> coyster@earthlink.net
> "Rocket"
> 
> ----------
> > From: TERMO1L <TERMO1L@aol.com>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: J&M in CA
> > Date: Wednesday, January 21, 1998 3:06 PM
> > 
> > I know where it is located but I am in WI does anyone know a number or
> address
> > of J&M speed center in Riverside CA?
> > 
> > Mike

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 17:15:57 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Re: Ya never guess

Hard to believe a raggy piece of paper can cause that kind of exitement,
but it does!  Nice find!  It's the best form of documentation a car can 
have. Congrats!

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Ya never guess
> Date: Saturday, January 24, 1998 3:07 PM
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I was busy taking some carpeting out of my spare 442 and lo and behold
> I found the build sheet!  Pretty bad shape, however, it spells out
> some of the options it came with (that still remain and not).  Boy was
> I jazzed.
> 
> 
> Later.....
> 
> Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 18:00:08 -0500
From: erhowel@ibm.net
Subject: Wanted forged 455 crankshaft nonground condition



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 18:04:21 -0500
From: erhowel@ibm.net
Subject: 455 forged crank

Wanted a non-ground excellent condition 455 forged crank with magnaflux
certificate will pay top dollar! Excellent condition is a must.I have a
nodular iron 455 crank and a nodular iron 350 crank if interested, also
a set of ported C cast heads.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 18:24:13 -0500
From: "Eric T. Brubakken" <ebrubak@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: 1967 Read End

I have a 1967 Cutlass, 455, Turbo 400 and 12 bolt ( type O ) ratio 3:08
rear end.

It is my understanding that the highest axle ratio using this housing is
3:23.  I am wanting to find another rearend somewhere around 3:50 - 3:70
and a posi unit.

My question is:

What vehicles would have the type of readend I am looking for?  It might
be somewhat hard to find an Olds rearend for my Cutlass.  Will I be able
to get a Chevy rearend and if so what model/year?

Thanks

Eric Brubakken

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 18:23:03 -0500
From: Tom Millard <oldspwr@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: 200-4R Posting...

Here is some info I posted awhile back on the 200-4R trans.  I have recently
updated it since I have finally worked out all the bugs of my trans (knock
on wood...)

200-4R VERSUS 700-R4  - WHICH ONE SHOULD I USE BEHIND AN OLDS
Most people believe that the 700-R4 is better tranny than the 200-4R.
 According to a recent Hot Rod Article "The Great Debate - 700-R4 vs. 200-4R
- - Which is the Better Overdrive", March 1995, "both can handle 600 lbs-ft or
torque and around 700 hp."  Therefore, all you have to do is pick the correct
one for your Olds.  200-4R's have either a BOP bell housing or a universal
bell housing (BOP & Chevy).  This makes it a direct bolt in for your Olds.
 It is the same length as a 350 and uses the same drive shaft, but has the
mount for the cross member in the same location as a TH-400. As for the
700-4R, it only has a Chevy bell housing so an adapter plate will have to be
used.  It is also longer than a 400 by 2", so a custom length drive shaft
will have to be made as well as the crossmember being relocated.  Below is a
chart which relates the lengths of the common tranny's to there tranny mount
locations.

Trans       Overall   Rear Trans
            Length    Mount Position
- ---------------------------------------------------------------
TH350       27"       19.5"  
TH400       28"       26.25"
TH200-4R    27"       26"
TH700-R4    30"       21.25"

200-4R VERSUS 700-R4 GEAR RATIOS
One important thing to look at while choosing an overdrive for your Olds is
the gear ratios they have.  The 700-R4 has a huge jump from 1st gear to 2nd
gear, which will hurt acceleration.. The car will really launch in 1st gear
but puke when it hits 2nd.  I am not saying that you will be dissapointed
with a 700-R4, but if you drag race the car at all the the gear ratios should
be something to consider.  As for the 200-4R, the gear jumps are more evenly
spaced out and it has a better overdrive ratio.  See the chart below for
common trans gear ratios:

Trans             1st   2nd   3rd   4th
- ----------------------------------------
350               2.52  1.52  1.00  ---
400               2.48  1.48  1.00  ---
200-4R            2.74  1.57  1.00  0.67
700-4R            3.06  1.62  1.00  0.70

Since I chose a 200-4R, the rest of this will concentrate on that particular
trans.

BACKGROUND:
To begin, the 200-4R is loosly based on the 200 metric with the addition of
an OD drum.  Due to their relation to one another, the 200-4R has an
undeserved reputation of being weak like its notorious sister 200.  Although
the 200-4R will not hold up very well it its stock form,  there are a few
modifications that will increase its strength and dependability.

INFO RESOURCE:
Most if the information I have gathered is from Mike Kurtz at PMAC in
Houston, TX and Level Ten Trans in NJ (www.levelten.com).  Most of the guys
on the TR (Turbo Regal) mail list speak highly of both, and you can get a
text file of 200-4R questions from the TR Web page
(http://ni.umd.edu/gnttype/www/buick.html).  

CORES:
According to Mike, the most important thing in rebuilding a 200-4R is the
core you use.  86-87 Turbo Regal (TR) trans are the best cores to use while
the 85 and under TR's, Monte SS's and 442/Hurst's are the next best.  The
reason the 86-87 TR trans's are better cores is that they have a larger
reverse boost valve, special governor, and a larger 2-3 intermediate servo.
 The 85 and under TR's, Monte SS's and 442's trans are very similiar, and use
the same valve bodies (which is important) and and they can be upgraded to
86-87 TR types with parts from GM.  

CODES:
To determine what type of core you have or need, you have to look at the
code.  This code can be found on the passenger side of the trans near the
driveshaft and is attached with one rivet.  Sometimes these tags were
installed backwards at the factory, so it is possible that the code is facing
the wrong way.  The tag is a small piece of aluminum that will be either
natural & yellow or natural & blue and will have the 2 or 3 letter code on
it along with the serial number stamped on it.  The serial number will also
include the 2 or 3 letter code mentioned above.  This code is EXTREMELY
important!    Most people do not know that there is a difference between
these trans.  I've had people tell me that a "200-4R is
a 200-4R", and that is wrong. 

Codes for 200-4R's:
** KZF - 442's
** CZF - Monte SS's
** BRF - Turbo Regals
** OZ - Hurst's
OM - 350 Olds Diesels
OG - 307 Olds
BY - 252 V6 Cars
AA & AP - Cadillac's 
The codes marked with the ** are the ones with the better valve bodies.  The
valve body itself will have the first two letters painted on it.  Be careful
because the paint comes off easily.  The special valve bodies usually have a
purple strip on them also.

VALVE BODIES:
According to Mike Kurtz, he has never had any success with any other valve
bodies than the ones marked with asteriks above.  Although the casting
numbers are the same, I am pretty sure that the bore sizes of the valves
within the valve body are different.  This makes a big difference in the
shift quality of the trans. 
*** UPDATE ***  I have heard stories of valve body surfaces not being true.
This could cause pressure bleed over and inconsistent shifts, etc.  The
tech at
Level Ten told me that he usually 'stones' (surfaces) the valve bodies
before reinstalling them.  Note:  I would also replace the plate located
between the 
valve body and case.  Mike Kurtz also recommends replacing the VB gaskets
every
time you drop the VB.  

GOVERNORS:
The governor in a 200-4R controls wide open throttle (WOT) shift points.
The governor consists of (2) weights and (2) springs.  The lighter (smaller)
the weights, the higher the shift points.  

All non performance trans received governors that were designed to shift at
3000 rpms  WOT.  This is important because with the 3000 rpm type governor,
the trans will shift from 1-2-3-4 very rapidly which makes for poor
acceleration at mild or
light throttle. Monte SS (CZF) trans shifted at 4800 rpms WOT as did the
442's.  The 84-85 Turbo Regals shifted at 4800 rpms WOT, the 86's shifted at
5200 WOT, and the 87's shifted at 5000 rpms WOT.  You can buy these directly
from GM at about $60 garage cost. 

Some common governor problems:  Occasionally when the trans shifts from 3-4
at WOT, the springs in the governor like to fly out.  This will cause a
no-shift at WOT from any gear.  The solution is to drop the pan, take out
the governor and put the springs and check balls back in it.  It should be
noted that the 86 & 87 TR trans only have one spring (thus higher WOT shift
points).

It should also be noted that the trans line pressure also influences the WOT
shift points.  It you use Art Carr's high pressure valve and spring, the
RPM's quoted above might increase.  I ran into a problem where my car would
not shift at WOT.  I checked the springs in the governor as mentioned above,
but that wasn't the problem.  I had the Monte SS governor in the trans as
well as Art Carrs high pressure spring and valve.  I wanted my 403 to shift
at 5000, but the RPMS kept creaping pass that at WOT.  I felt it eventually
would shift at 6000 rpms or so, but at the expense of my 403 staying in one
piece.  So I put the original Monte SS valve and spring back in the trans
and lowered the line pressure considerably and that solved the no shift at
WOT problem. Now the car shifts a 5000 rpms very consistently.

UPGRADES:
There are a few common upgrades that most reputable trans builder install in
200-4R's.  These include a 10 vane pump, heat treated stator, pressure
regulator valve, and a shift kit.
 
PUMP:
To replace the stock 7 vane pump, a 10 vane pump with heat treated vanes and
 steel rings are used. This reduces irradic pressure readings with the
addition of the extra vanes while the very brittle cast iron ring is replaced
with a steel ring.  (This brittle cast iron ring is a common weak point in
the 200-4R.) 

HEAT TREATED STATOR:
If you look at the stator in a stock 200-4R, you will probably observe
extreme wear marks on the splines.  Art Carr claims that a worn stator will
cause premature failure on the thrust bearing in the engine.  Therefore most
aftermarket companies sell a heat treated version to replace the worn stock
one. This has to be pressed into the pump, and costs around $70.

PRESSURE REGULATOR VALVE:
To increase the line pressure and also reduce pressure fluctuations, the
stock pressure regulator valve can be replaced with a 'performance' one.
 This costs around $20 and is available from Art Carr and Mike Kurtz @ PMAC.
*** UPDATE ***  My trans kept starting off in 2nd gear as well as not shifting
at WOT from 1-2.  I spoke with a tech at Level Trans and he told me to replace
the high pressure regulator valve and spring with a stock ones.  I used a
valve 
and spring from my 86 Monte SS core and this completely solved my problems...

SHIFT KITS:
There are a couple a kits available on the market, but the one most of the
guys on the TR list recommend is the one from Mike Kurtz.  His kit is
modified Trans GO kit that works very well.  I have installed it on my trans
and am very happy with it.  B&M also makes a kit that works well, but a few
guys have had trouble with them.  As for the Trans GO kit, they strongly
recommend you avoid this kit due to a missing parts, etc.  One of the newer
kits from Trans Go has you drill the valve body itself which is bad news
since you can never go back to where you started.  Keep in mind that a new TR
valve body from GM costs over $500 with a $250 core charge.  

DISCLAIMER:
I spent all last summer and this summer playing with my 200-4R and spending 
alot of time talking to guys on the TR list as well as to other tranny
builders.  Sometimes these tranny's can cause some grief but really work
well when the bugs 
are ironed out. Please keep this in mind before tackling such a project....

RESULTS:
My 200-4R resides in my 403 powered 79 Cutlass.  The car is equipped with
245 60 rear
tires with an overall 25.75" diameter.  I just installed 4.10's in the 8.5"
10 bolt and the engine tachs 2350 rpms at 70 mph in 4th gear!  With 28X9
slicks, the car crosses the traps in the quarter at 5000 rpm in 3rd gear
(high 13's at 97 mph)

I hope this info helps....
Please drop me a line if you need any more info...

Tom Millard OLDSPWR@worldnet.att.net
79 Cutlass - Street/Strip/Show
86 442 - Summer Cruiser
79 Cutlass - Winter Bomb (soon to be for sale...)
84 Silverado 4WD (soon to be Olds powered...)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 17:28:55 -0600
From: "Tracy H. Shires" <twodogs@ou.edu>
Subject: Re: PowerTrax   Was: Axle Ratio

At 08:16 PM 1/24/98 EST, you wrote:

>In a message dated 98-01-24 15:40:29 EST, you write:

>

><<<< It's a Locker that replaces the spider gears. It looks like just like a

>spool except it has two plates with springs and notched teeth. No friction

>plates to wear out either...

>  >>

>

>Is this setup practical for use on the street or is it intended for racing

>only?


The springs disenage the collar when the vehicle turns. In effect it's like a spool when the vehicle is straight and an open differential when it is turning. There is a slight click when the collar disenages and the teeth slide over each other. It's completely streetable. 




T. H. Shires				81 C/S/B Rckt 350

mailto:TwoDogs@ou.edu


<bold>University of Oklahoma

</bold><italic><color><param>0000,0000,ffff</param>Aerospace 
Engineering

</color><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param>Mechanical Engineering

</color></italic>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 18:41:23 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: W-MACHINES Web Page

Okay, guys I've just finished my first webpage.  I'm a novice at this, so
suggestions welcome!

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com   
http://www.en.com/users/wmachine/wm.html
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 15:45:27 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Weatherstripping

Hi all,

I was out today checking to see if the door weatherstripping I bought
would work on my 68 442 SC (door framed) and come to find out that 
after I installed it (w/o adhesive) the door didn't seal right.
Argh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  The part I got seems to have been a 68 
Sh*tv*ll* replacement part (since its originally from Metro, I cross
checked against their inventory).  Are the doors similar between a 68
Sh*tv*ll* and a 68 442 (Sports coupe)?  I know my doors are straight
since I can shut them with ease.  I won't mentioned who I got these
from ;-), however is there something else I can do for this car.  I
would assume a replacement part isn't available.  You would think so
since I would assume all sports coupe (442/Cutlass/F85) from 68-72
were probably all the same.  

All of the door weatherstripping is off and is unprotected from any
kind of moisture.  I have got to get this car done so that I can get
it appraised for insuring.  If there is a good replacement I'll have
to contact the persons I bought them from to see to see if I can get 
something that will work.

Later.....


Chris Sparks
68 442 SC (Frosty, she is very unhappy about the W/S)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 20:06:23 -0500
From: Miguel Morales <Miguel.Morales@mci.com>
Subject: Re:  Th-2004R ?

I have an '84 H/O with the beefed up 2004R and there are ways to get
around the lockup. If you want to disengage it and user overdrive you
can unplug it. There is a ground sensor inside the tranny pan that
completes the computer circuit at a certain line pressure while in
overdrive 4th. You can unplug the lines going to the tranny near the
firewall to avoid code settings. But another way to disconnect the
lockup is to unplug the temperature sender to the computer, the one with
the emmissions locking connector. This will set a code though.

BTW if that cable disconnects and always grounds inside the tranny you
will lug the engine due to lock up at 20 MPH or as soon as the tranny
shifts into 2nd, the lock up will feel like an extra shift to third and
then you actually shift to third and finally overdrive. It's happened to
me before and the car is a dog even with 3.73 gears.

I don't know about bearing damage but this lugging condition can't be
good. It also causes lots of four-barrel carburetor carbon deposit
problems.  Fortunately it only happens once the engine reaches warmed-up
conditions making it easier on the main bearings but not so for the
detonating pistons and connecting rod bearings. Keep in mind that you
have the choice of disconnecting the lock-up, but on the H/O with the
higher stall converter there was still considerable slippage at 2000
RPM. With lockup working and with normal tires, the RPMS at 55 to 60 MPH
were always approaching 2000, rarely exceeding it unless you broke
lockup by footing the pedal.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 17:27:29 -0500
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Parting Strip Adhesive

The chrome piece which attaches to the rear quarter glass and holds the
weatherstrip that seals the front door window fell off my car.  Does anyone
know what kind of adhesive is used to attach it?


Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 17:52:14 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Webpage update

I like your message board area, pretty slick

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 22:04:56 -0500
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Minor Details on 70 442

At 11:29 PM 1/23/98 EST, you wrote:
Dan

        The top plate of your OAI system could have either unpainted letters
or painted. I've seen two NOS ones that were painted. They were rollered
with white paint. If you also notice that Oldsmobile has some promotion al
pictures where it is painted also. MOST of them were unpainted. This is up
to you what YOU want to do with it. My 70 SX had a painted unit on it and I
used a paint pen to touch it up. Works great. This was not specific for any
year either. 
        As for your heat&A/C faceplate they were silk screened on and that's
why they feel raised. The best you could do is find a nice used one. I will
check, I think we have one or two of them in very good shape.

Jim Chermack


> The heater/ac control panel on my 70 442 needs replaced or redone.  The
> printing is faded and it just looks like something out of a 28 year old car.
> Anyone have a suggestion on this?
> 
> Also, concerning the air induction unit (that which sets above the air
>cleaner
> and has the vaccum door), it has the word "OLDSMOBILE" printed on it.  On my
> 70 these raised letters are painted white.  I also have one from a 72 in
>which
> the letters are not painted, it is just the raised letters on the black
> plastic.  Are each of these correct for their respective year model or did
>the
> previous owner do some painting?  BTW, the 70 is a W-30 while the 72 is not.
> 
> Thanks in Advance,
> 
> Dan442Olds

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 20:24:19 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: Fan Shroud Swap

Question:
Will a fan shroud from an 84 88 fit in place of one in my 87 Cutlass?

And to all who responded to my overheating dilemma, thanks!  It was the
fan clutch, nice and cheap and easy!  I have happineness again.

Ray finally driving the 409 Rocket again Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 20:34:34 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: Re: 4 spd auto shifter wanted ...86 salon

On Fri, 23 Jan 1998, RCKTPWR wrote:

> Hello list, I put an 81 200r4 in my 86 salon. Underneath the car I see that my
> orig 3spd auto shifter is busted. Does anyone have an orig 4spd type shifter
> for me? I have the console of course.  If I go aftermarket, which 1 is a good
> one? Can I keep my orig console top, or would it come w/the aftermarket
> shifter?  
> Thanx in advance
> Bernie
> 

Someone's selling a set of lightning rods for (gasp)$450!  I have his
address somewhere if you want it, or maybe he's on the list?


Ray finally driving the 409 Rocket again Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 23:02:44 -0500
From: Gerald Hughes <ghughes@hughesconsulting.com>
Subject: SuperBowl Finale

Bronco's WIN YEAH!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 23:01:10 -0500
From: "Thomas G. Stoner" <tgstoner@umich.edu>
Subject: Oldsmobile Decals For Sale (01/26)

I have the following Oldsmobile related item which I would like to sell:

NOS 16 x 28 inch sheet of white Oldsmobile Racing decals, as used on the
1980s NASCAR and NHRA race cars.  Includes three ŗOldsmobile˛ script
decals. (one each 8 x 26, 5 x 16, and 3 x10) and eight rectangular
rocket emblem decals (one 4 x 8, one 3-1/2 x 8, one 3 x 6, one 2-1/2 x
6, two 1-1/2 x 3, and two 1 x 3)  I believe that these can be applied to
outside surfaces, as well as to the inside of a window.  These were a
factory provided item to race teams and not widely available.  $16.00,
including shipping to any address in North America.  (1/26/98)

Notify me directly at tgstoner@umich.edu if you would like to purchase
this item, or if you would like additional information about it.  Thank
you.

          ===
+======= | | | =======================+
|        | | |   Tom Stoner           |
|        |/|\|   OCA #3943            |
|        | | |   Ann Arbor, Michigan  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu   |
+=====================================+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 23:04:04 -0500
From: "Thomas G. Stoner" <tgstoner@umich.edu>
Subject: FYI: 1975 Oldsmobile Options (long)

Item:  1975 Oldsmobile Optional Equipment Codes
Source:  1975 Oldsmobile Chassis and Body Parts Catalog - effective
April, 1975

Code  Description (series available / s=standard equipment)
AC3	6-way Power Bucket Seat (A)
AD3	Vista Vent Roof (A)
AG1	6-way Power Driveršs Seat 60/40 (A,B,C,E)
AG2	6-way Power Passengeršs Seat 60/40 (B,C,E)
AK1	Deluxe Seat Belts (A, B, Cs, Es, H, X)
AM6	60 / 40 Power Seat - Dual Controls (A, B, C, Es)
AN6	Power Bucket Seat - Driveršs (H)
AN7	Swivel Bucket Seats (A)
AR3	Air Cushion Restraint System (B, C, E)
AU3	Power Door Locks (A, B, C, E, X)
AU5	Door and Seat Back Locks - Electric (C, E)
A01	Tinted Window Glass (A, B, C, D, E, H, X)
A20	Swing-out Quarter Vent Windows (A, X)
A31	Electric Side Windows (A, B, Cs, Es, X)
A39	Deluxe Lap Belts (B)
A42	6-way Power Seat - Bench (A, B, C, E)
A51	Bucket Seats (Hs, X)
A90	Power Trunk Lid Release (A, B, C, E, X)
A96	Luggage Compartment Lock (B)
BT1	Police Apprehender Package (B)
B30	Floor Carpeting, Nylon Blend (A, Bs, Cs, Es, Hs, Xs)
B32	Front Floor Mats (A, B, C, E, X)
B33	Rear Floor Mats (A, B, C, E, X)
B36	Luggage Compartment Mat (A, B, C, E)
B37	Floor Mats - Front and Rear (H)
B39	Floor Carpeting - Cargo Area (A, B)
B80	Bright Roof Drip Mouldings (X)
B83	Rocker Panel Mouldings (As, Bs, Cs, Es, X)
B84	Protective Side Mouldings - Vinyl Insert (A, B, C, E, H, X)
B90	Bright Side Window Frame Mouldings (B, Xs)
B93	Door Edge Guard Mouldings (A, B, C, E, H, X)
CB1	Vinyl Landau Roof (A)
CB4	Vinyl Opera Roof (C, E)
CB6	Vinyl Halo Rooftop Covering (C)
CD4	Pulse Wiper System (A, B, C, E, X)
C08	Vinyl Roof - Without Pad (A, X)
C09	Vinyl Roof - Padded (B, C, E)
C26	Power Operated Tailgate (B)
C49	Electric Rear Window Defogger (A, B, C, E, H)
C50	Forced Air Rear Window Defogger (X)
C51	Air Deflector Package (A)
C60	Four Season Air Conditioning (A, B, C, E, H, X)
C65	Tempmatic Air Conditioning (A, B, C, E)
C90	Front Door Courtesy and Warning Lamps (B)
C95	Dome and Reading Lamp Assembly (A, B, C, E)
C97	Front Door Illumination Package (B, C)
DF3	Remote Control Outside Mirror - Passenger Side (B, C, E)
D24	Litter Container (A, B, C, E)
D31 	Inside Tilt Rearview Mirror (H)
D33	Remote Control Outside Mirror - Driveršs Side (A, B, Cs, Es, X)
D35	Outside Rearview Mirrors - Sports (A, B, H, X)
D55	Sports Console (A, Hs, X)
D64	Illuminated Visor Vanity Mirror (A, B, C, E)
D66	Remote Control Mirror with Illuminated Temperature Indicator (B, C,
E)
D74	Illuminated Visor Vanity Mirror - Driveršs Side (C, E)
D83	Special Paint - Solid Color (A, B, C, E, X)
D99	Two Tone Paint (A, B, X)
FE2	Rallye Suspension Package (A, X)
FG2	Firm Ride Shock Absorbers - Front and Rear (A, B, C)
F30	3.07 Performance Final Drive Ratio (E)
F41	Heavy Duty Suspension System - Front and Rear (A, B, C, E)
F90	Final Drive - 2.73 Ratio (E)
GM8	Rear Axle - 2.56 Ratio (A, B, C, H, X)
GU2	Rear Axle - 2.73 Ratio (A, B, C, X)
GU4	Rear Axle - 3.08 Ratio (A)
G66	Superlift Rear Shock Absorbers (A, B, C, E)
G80	Anit-Spin Rear Axle (A, B, C, H, X)
JL2	Power Brakes - Disk Front (A, Bs, Cs, Es)
JL9	True-Track Braking (E)
J50	Power Brakes - Disk Front (Hs, X)
J55	Heavy Duty Power Front Disk Brakes (B)
K05	Engine Block Heater (A, B, C, E, X)
K19	Air Injection Reactor System - California Only (A, B, C, E, H)
K30	Cruise Control (A, B, C, E)
K89	Catalytic Converter Reactor (A)
LD7	231 CID V6 - 2 Bbl (H)
LV8	260 CID V8 - 2 Bbl (A, X)
L22	250 CID L6 - 1 Bbl (A, X)
L34	350 CID V8 - 4 Bbl (A, B)
L48	400 CID V8 - 4 Bbl (B, C)
L74	455 CID V8 - 4 Bbl (A, B, C)
L77	350 CID V8 - 4 Bbl (X)
L78	455 CID V8 - 4 Bbl (E)
M11	3-speed Manual Transmission - Floor Shift (X)
M15	3-speed Manual Transmission (A, X)
M20	4-speed Manual Transmission - Floor Shift (H)
M38	Turbo HydraMatic 350 Transmission (A, H, X)
M40	Turbo HydraMatic 400/425 Transmission (A, Bs, Cs, Es)
NB2	Exhaust Gas Recirculation System - California Only (A, B, C, E, H,
X)
N05	Locking Gas Cap (A, B, C, E, X)
N33	Tilt-Away Steering Wheel (A, B, C, E, H, X)
N34	Custom Sport Steering Wheel (A, X)
N37	Tilt and Travel Steering Wheel (C, E)
N41	Power Steering (As, Bs, Cs, Es, H, X)
N67	Super Stock III Wheels - 14 inch (X)
N68	Conventional Spare Tire and Wheel (H)
N71	Super Stock II Wheels - 15 inch (A)
N72	Super Stock III Wheels - 15 inch (A)
N73	Super Stock III Wheels - 13 inch (H)
N95	Simulated Wire Wheel Discs - 15 inch (A, B)
N97	Heavy Duty Wheels - 15 inch (A)
N99	Heavy Duty Wheels (B, C)
PA1	Deluxe Wheel Discs - 15 inch (A)
PA3	Deluxe Wheel Discs - 15 inch (B, C)
P01	Wheel Discs - 14 inch (X)
P03	Deluxe Wheel Discs (E)
P06	Wheel Trim Rings (H)
QBN	JR78x15 Steel Belted Radial White Striped Tires (C, E)
QBT	FR78x14 Steel Belted Radial Raised White Letter Tires (X)
QBV	BR78x13 Steel Belted Radial Raised White Letter Tires (H)
QBW	FR78x15 Steel Belted Radial White Striped Tires (A)
QBY	BR78x13 Steel Belted Radial White Striped Tires (H)
QCF	GR78x15 Steel Belted Radial Blackwall Tires (A)
QCV	HR70x15 Steel Belted Radial Raised White Letter Tires (A)
QDR	GR78x15 Steel Belted Radial White Striped Tires (A)
QDU	HR78x15 Steel Belted Radial Blackwall Tires (A)
QDW	FR78x14 Steel Belted Radial White Striped Tires (X)
QEG	E78x14 Bias Ply Blackwall Tires (X)
QEH	E78x14 Bias Ply Whitewall Tires (X)
QEL	HR78x15 Steel Belted Radial White Striped Tires (B)
QEX	JR78x15 Steel Belted Radial White Striped Tires (C, E)
QFU	LR78x15 Steel Belted Radial White Striped Tires (B)
TA0	Compaticolor - Black (E)
TA2	Compaticolor - Green (A, B, C)
TA3	Compaticolor - Blue (A, B, C, E, H, X)
TA5	Compaticolor - Cranberry Red (A, B, C, E, H, X)
TA9	Compaticolor - Saddle (A, B, C, E, H, X)
TP1	Maintenance Free Battery (B, C, E)
T41	Front License Plate Panel (A, B)
T63	Headlamp On Reminder (A, X)
T87	Cornering Lamps (B, C, E)
UA1	Heavy Duty Battery	(H)
UA6	Theft Deterrant System (B, C, E)
UB7	Trip Odometer and Safety Sentinel (B, C, E)
UE8	Electric Digital Clock (B, C, Es)
UH1	Electronic Lamp Monitor (B, C, E)
UM1	AM Pushbutton / Stereo Tape Player Radio (A, B, C, E, X)
UM2	AM-FM Stereo Radio / Tape Player (A, B, C, E, X)
UR1	Fuel Exonomy Meter (A, B, C, E, X)
U05	Dual Horns (X)
U21	Rallye Pac Instrument Cluster (A)
U35	Electric Clock (A, B, Cs, X)
U58	AM-FM Stereo Radio (A, B, C, E, X)
U63	AM Pushbutton Radio (A, B, C, E, H, X)
U69	AM-FM Mono Radio (A, B, C, E, H, X)
U75	Power Antenna - Front Fender (B, C, E)
U76	Windshield Antenna - (H)
U80	Rear Seat Speaker (A, B, C, E, H, X)
U89	Trailer Wiring Harness - 5 wire (A, B, C, E)
U94	Trailer Wiring Harness - 7 wire (A, B, C, E)
VE5	Bumper Rub Strips (As, Bs, Cs, Es, Hs, X)
VG4	Bumper Filler Protector (A, B, C)
VG8	Special Rear Bumper (A, B, C, E)
VJ9	California Emissions Test (A, B, C, E, H, X)
VK3	License Plate Mounting (H)
V01	Heavy Duty Radiator (H, X)
V1H	Two Tone Special Paint (A, B, X)
V1K	Special Firemist Paint (A, B, C, E, X)
V1N	Salon Steering Wheel (X)
V1V	Delete Front License Plate Bracket (A, B, C)
V30	Bumper Guards and Rub Strips - Front and Rear (X)
V55	Luggage Carrier (A, B, H, X)
V56	Rear Luggage Locker Lock and Trim (A)
WJ3	Custom Leather Trim (H)
WM6	Special Paint (A, B, C, E, X)
WM7	Two Tone Special Paint (A, B, X)
W28	Omege S Sports Package (X)
W29	4-4-2 Appearance and Handling Package (A)
Y60	Convenience Group (A, B, C, E, X)
Y67	Indicator Package (B, C, E)
Y70	Accent Stripe (A, E, H, X)
Y71	Outside Temperature Indicator (A)
Y72	Heavy Duty Engine Cooling Equipment (A, B, C, E)
Y73	Reclining Bucket Seats (X)
Y74	Rocker Panel and Wheel Opening Mouldings (A)
Y76	Special Option Package (A)
ZJ9	Aux. Lighting Group (H)
          ===
+======= | | | =======================+
|        | | |   Tom Stoner           |
|        |/|\|   OCA #3943            |
|        | | |   Ann Arbor, Michigan  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu   |
+=====================================+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 23:13:37 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: '68-9 mirror screw removal

> What happens when the allen head sockets are stripped out...WAAAAAA!

Find a flat-blade screwdriver whose tip is a really tight fit in the
socket.
Pound it in with a hammer. Turn as usual to remove.
==============
All that'll get you on MI mirrors is your tool broekn off in there.

Knock it off the car with a piece of wood or plastic. Then attack the screws
from below, where you can access the large head with your NEW vice-grips and
wiggle, heat, and lube until it comes free.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 23:26:29 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 260 vs. other sb's

The 260 is externally the same as the 330/350/403, but it's got those little
"girlie" ports and cylinders, so only 260 heads will work on a 260 block,
and only a 260 intake will work with the 260 heads.
==================
One more time, with feeling:
"All the Olds SB's are the same externally. Chief differences are bore size,
then port & valve sizes."

In my experience, the 260's girly-ports are matched by the later 307. As for
intakes, the 260 always had the 2V or psuedo-Qjet, right? With aluminum 4V
intakes, I remember the diffs as "5 is jive, 4 gimme more." Hokey, but w/ my
memory, it works. The "A5" 4V inatke has the girly ports, whereas the A4 has
the larger ports which would match well with, say, a 403 head, etc.

So, the 260 heads should "work", if you can call it that, on a 307.

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 23:30:29 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: short stroke 403?

From: Erik Nowacki <enowacki@titan.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Possibility?
        How about putting a 330 crank in a 403 block?  The idea would be to
have a large bore in relation to the stroke=a higher reving motor.  Wasn't that
the idea behind the 445 discussed here recently. Erik Nowacki
==============
How would the 330 crank help?

Same stroke.
330 crank needs early pattern flexplate, 403 needs late pattern.
403 crank probably has more massive counterweights, 330 crank might need
    "heavy metal" to balance properly
330 crank is forged, 403's are cast.
Most 403 cranks I have seen are drilled for MT use.

Easy 403 crank ID: front counterweight has a nice 1/8" or so groove cut into
the circumference. Tell at a glance.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 23:22:49 EST
From: NotDads442 <NotDads442@aol.com>
Subject: (Non OLDS) Anybody have Jeff Antonucci's address??

Hi All,

I've been using this address and getting bad returns antoj@erols.com.

Jeff if you're still on the list let me know your address.

Cecil
1991 W41
OCA #29604

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 23:33:24 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 11.5 sec. 307!

I did 11.5's on the 1/8 running a stock 87 Cutlass 307...
==============
Not to be taken in a bad way... but...

How do you get your car into the 11's when you're stuck with a 307?

Just shorten the track!

I laughed a good one when I saw that 11.5 second 307 line!
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 23:35:50 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 1000 cid small block

I was doing some math, and figured out that if you put 403 pistons in a
455, you'd get a 506!! This has to be possible, doesn't it? A 350 block
is the same as a 403 block, and aren't SB's and BB's almost the same? A
455 has to be able to take that much overbore if a 350 can, right? Or
are the wall thicknesses really different?
- - --Matt Cremean
=============
455's do not have the siamesed blocks like the 403's. Not that much meat there.

In short- all the easy problems have been solved already. Even a few of the
more difficult ones.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 23:53:15 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 330 notes

Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 12:02:39 EST
From: TERMO1L <TERMO1L@aol.com>
Subject: Valve covers and Tach

I am wondering if anyone knows if a set of valve covers from a 350 will fit a
330?  Are the heads the same?
================
All external items are fungible. Your 330 is mainly just a 350 with a slightly
smaller bore. And a forged crank. And a little different flexplate bolt
pattern. And a 45 degree cam bank angle.

Any Olds engine can donate to your 330 such parts as: RACovers, timing cover,
distributor, fuel pump, motor mounts, trans, oil pump, oil pump drive rod,
coolant pump, pulleys, brackets...

Any small block [barring ridiculous stuff like girly-port 260/307 parts] can
donate intake. Exhaust manifolds.

Any pre-68 engine [except the '66-7 400 and '66-7 Toro/Starfire ONLY 425] can
share a cam.

Most Olds motors share the 0.842" lifters that your 330 has. Notable exceptions
are the above mentioned early Toro/ SF/ 442 motors, and later roller-cam and/or
diesel motors which had the larger 0.921" lifters.

Heads gets a little more persnickety. I found out the hard way that 330 heads
on a 350 cause the p'rods to rub on the head, which soon wears 'em in half.
Damn that cam bank angle difference! Best to stick with 330 heads on a 330- #1,
2, 3, or 4. It is quite possible that 350 heads will bolt right onto the 330
w/o such a problem, and in any event, a small amount of machine work would
eliminate any interference. Now, however, you run the risk of having abysmal
compression- what will your 10:1 330 have for compression if you slap on a set
of #8 smogger 350 heads with 80cc chambers? Run the numbers for an exercise if
you need to.

I'm guessing 7.5:1.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 23:57:17 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: gas tanks store

From: "Daniel S and Michelle Carlson" <carlson@paulbunyan.net>
Subject: '66 Cutlass Convertible gas tank

I have been looking for a gas tank for a 66 cutlass convertible with a 330
engine.  Is there any out there?
Dan
- ------------------------------
I suggest you try National Automotive Lines, they might have older models, they
hooked me up with a fyool tank fer me truck for a mere $125 or so dee-livvered.
1-800-428-4300

Again, if you have not yet gotten a catalog from them, DO SO NOW.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 00:03:34 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: tools

The pinion angle is what is concerning me the most. I have 255 60's on the rear
and the front is lowered 2 inches... I have a set of SSM lower arms that will
se t it right- If I ever get around to it..BTW - Anyone ever heard of a
magnetic pr otractor and where I could get one?
=======================
Yeah, you make one. Amazing what you can do w/ a hot glue gun, some epoxy, etc.
I saw one of them little magnetic adjustable bubble level protractors in the
service manual. So I copied it. Bought a tiny protractor, a strong magnet, and
a line level. Used an old yardstick for the wooden frame. A spring to let the
parts move yet stay where you set them... there you have it.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 00:37:33 EST
From: COUPE KING <COUPEKING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Internal Engine Paints

Eastwood sells Glyptal. FYI

CoupeKing

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 23:43:38 -0600
From: dnewman@wcbi.com (Doug Newman)
Subject: Doug Kitchener

Hi folks,
             Does anyone have Doug Kitchener's current e-mail address?  I've
misplaced it.  

Thanks,

Doug Newman
Columbus, MS
1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1072
*********************************

