To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1018


oldsmobile-digest      Friday, December 19 1997      Volume 01 : Number 1018



1966 Cutlass 2 dr. htp  FS or Parting
1971 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
Re: 4 core radiator
Re[2]: 4 core radiator
Re: 80's H/O wheels interogative
Re: Gold Engine paint?
Re: 80's H/O wheels interogative
Re: Transporting car across the country
Re: Quad 4 with no PCV
Re: funny paint
Re: Transporting car across the country
Re: 4 core radiator
Interesting Olds F/S
Re: 1971 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
Re: Transporting car across the country
Re: Subject: Re: Transporting car across the country
Re: 1970 dash overlays
1970 Cutlass S
RE:  Re: 4 core radiator
RE: John Pajak
Ram Air?
Re: Intake Manifold Question
Re: Gasket Questions
Re: Ram Air?
Re: Gasket Questions
Re: SX Electrical Woes
Re: Transporting car across the country
F/S 1 SS 15" Wheel
Re: Transporting car across the country
Re: Transporting car across the country
Non-Olds (Chris Farley)
Re: Re[2]: Inline filters/reply
shoot me now
xmas card
test lifter
"84 Hurst Wheel
oil critical bolts
Re: shoot me now
Re: Ram Air?
Re: oil critical bolts
Re: Olds History Center
Re: shoot me now
sway bars
I'll help.. (Re: Transporting car across the country)
Re: shoot me now
Re: John Pajak
Re: 1971 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
Re: Transporting car across the country
Is the server down, or am I gone?
Re: Ram Air?
Re: Re: Olds History Center
rim size
OHC address
vote
teaching opportunities
LA WOMN
Re: heat the garage (options semi-long)
Re: Oldsmobile FAQ
Re: LA WOMN

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 08:27:44 -0800
From: "Mike Aldana" <maldana@digitalwave.net>
Subject: 1966 Cutlass 2 dr. htp  FS or Parting

Complete rust free car that has an early olds 350 ,2-speed auto, buckets
console(missing console door) Runs and drives.Excellent tinted glass, needs
resto Must sell asap $1000.00 firm, or will part out. Please respond
directly to me at maldana@digitalwave.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Dec 1997 10:37:39 -0600
From: Tom Williams <tjwilli@Megavision.com>
Subject: 1971 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

Hi All,
   I stopped and looked at a 71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible last night
and was just testing the waters to see if it is worth buying and fixing
or let it go.
The car is an automatic, 350, power steering, power brakes, A/C, cruise,
power top, bench seat.
As far as the condition ha! here we go, the trunk was solid except buy
the inter wheel wells, the quarters both need replaced, the fenders need
at least one replaced, and the floor boards are bad on both the
passenger and drivers side (ie: like the car on the Flinstones just not
quite that far gone yet.) The top needs replaced and the interior needs
replaced, the motor runs good but needs to be cleaned and a new sending
unit installed, the air does not work but he has all the parts including
a new compressor to replace the bad one. Also one last thing the front
end bushings are bad and need to be replaced but he has new ones in the
box that go with.
As far as the price is concerned he was asking $2200.00 about 2 weeks
ago and has now dropped the price to $1800.00 but I know he would listen
very strongly to a cash price of about $1000.00

Thanks for any replies on this car.

Tom Williams
70 W31

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 08:40:10 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: 4 core radiator

     More tidbits of Rocket Science regarding cooling systems:
Most replacement radiators have the smaller style lower outlet. They
give you a rubber sleeve to increase the diameter of the lower outlet
for use in the earlier (pre-'71) applications. But, if use use a 71-72
hose you don't need the adapter. Wish I had known this BEFORE the
lower hose popped off one day. It's hard to clamp the hose tight
enough when using the rubber sleeve....
    In the '75ish applications, one of the heater hoses goes to the
radiator instead of the water pump. I ~think~ the original water pumps
 only had the one outlet for the bypass hose....the replacement pumps
have 2 outlets (consolidated listing-itis!). They give you a thin
rubber cap that looks like a thimble to block off the unneeded outlet.
Don't trust it! Mine cracked and broke within a year! I made my own
ugly but effective plug with a short piece of heater hose, 2 clamps
and a piece of a large bolt. It never leaked!

===
John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

65 Delta 88 2dr    70 Cutlass S 2dr       72 Cutlass conv
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31       72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr   70 442 W30 conv        72 442 W30 conv
70 Cutlass S 2dr   71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 97 11:41:38 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: 4 core radiator

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - And
now, a chapter out of the Olds List history!  Re-posted without permission
- -- Joe, did we sign a non-disclosure agreement when we joined the list?
;-)

     Drew,

     I seem to recall something about residuals...   ;-)

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 09:03:58 -0800
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: 80's H/O wheels interogative

Al H/O and 442 wheels were 15x7's.  I think the 14" chrome wheels were an
option for other Olds models.  Definitely something special, but not extremely
rare.  If they're in decent shape, maybe $200-$250 for the set.

The H/O wheels look like they're all chrome from a few feet away, but if you
look closely you'll notice that the centers (around the lug nuts) are painted
argent.  They also have a red stripe around the rim.  442 wheels have a gold
stripe around the rim and gold paint where the argent is.

Ray wrote:

> My dad's got a set of wheels lying around and I would like to get some
> info for him please.  He believes they are from an 80's H/O.  They're like
> the Olds Rally wheel (SS whatevers), but the don't have an actual beauty
> ring, no ring at all, but the same look.  They're all chrome, no room for
> color-keying.  Were these only on H/O's?  They are 14" wheels, not 15's
> unfortunately.  He's going to sell them if I decide I don't want them, and
> would like to know what they are worth.  thanks everyone.
>
> Ray dealing with "El Nino" in the Sonoran Desert Costanzo
> 87 409 Cutlass

- --
Tom Lentz, tlentz@ior.com                        '84 Hurst/Olds
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz                       '78 Cutlass Supreme
Network Admin, CPM Corp, Spokane, WA.            '78 Chev 1/2ton (Olds 350)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 11:35:53 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@leadbelt.com
Subject: Re: Gold Engine paint?

Matt Cremean wrote:

>-D'oh! Who makes the best Olds Gold Engine Paint? Will it withstand
>header temps?
>--

A compnay called Bill Hirsch Automotive sells the paint to Year One &
others. It is very good and holds up well to heat. It will not stay on
headers, if that's what you mean, but holds up as well as anything else
around headers.

You can buy the paint in quarts or 12 oz spray cans. You can buy it directly
from Bill Hirsch if you want ... don't have their phone ª at hand though...

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 11:47:50 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Re: 80's H/O wheels interogative

Ray,

I just bought a set of 15 X 7" all chrome SSIII for $250

Scott Wheeler
68442 Conv
Dallas




rayc@U.Arizona.EDU on 12/18/97 12:37:48 AM

Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

To:   oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
cc:    (bcc: Scott Wheeler/PrePress/PBI)
Subject:  80's H/O wheels interogative




My dad's got a set of wheels lying around and I would like to get some
info for him please.  He believes they are from an 80's H/O.  They're like
the Olds Rally wheel (SS whatevers), but the don't have an actual beauty
ring, no ring at all, but the same look.  They're all chrome, no room for
color-keying.  Were these only on H/O's?  They are 14" wheels, not 15's
unfortunately.  He's going to sell them if I decide I don't want them, and
would like to know what they are worth.  thanks everyone.
Ray dealing with "El Nino" in the Sonoran Desert Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 12:49:33 -0500
From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Subject: Re: Transporting car across the country

>>Then, when he got the
>> car home, he inspected the speedo/trans joint and it was finger tight.
>> Sorta makes ya stop and say "Hmmm"!
>
>I guess I don't get what your indicating here.

The guy I work with payed to have his car delivered in an enclosed
transport, safe from the hazzards of the road. However, it appeared that
the company disconnected the speedometer cable and drove the car instead.
So his car went through 2000+ miles of use (abuse?) by a stranger, he had
to get it repainted and he paid a premium for a service he didn't receive.
Major bummer!

Ray

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 12:54:56 -0500
From: m-hanneman@onu.edu
Subject: Re: Quad 4 with no PCV

>Matt,
>The high octane fuel is not covering the problem, it is the solution.


Well Ray, I am currently running 89 Octain.  It isn't the highest, but I
wouldn't think I would have to run the 92.  Also when I first bought the
car I ran 87 Octain and had no problems.

Matt
85 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 14:09:46 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: funny paint

On Thu, 18 Dec 1997, Chris Brown Witt wrote:
> There's a guy in town here, it's too funny, he has a big Olds wagon, like the
> 98 series from the late '70's, painted red & white candy stripes. BIG 
stripes,
> too, like a foot wide. Quite a sight. They angle back on each side, so they
> sorta form front-pointed V's along the car's centerline.

Sounds like either a Coast Guard ship or one of those WWII "dazzle"
paint jobs the allies used on their ships to fool the U-boats (saw
this on A&E the other night... neat!) Brings new meaning to the term
"big boat of a car"...  ;-)

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 13:14:35 +0000
From: ejhufnagel@juno.com (Edward J. Hufnagel)
Subject: Re: Transporting car across the country

On Thu, 18 Dec 1997 04:50:58 -0800 mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
writes:
>Ray Moriarty wrote:
>I guess I don't get what your indicating here.
>

        My guess is that they are disconnecting the speedo and driving
the car instead of trailering it

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 13:31:47 +0000
From: ejhufnagel@juno.com (Edward J. Hufnagel)
Subject: Re: 4 core radiator

On Thu, 18 Dec 1997 11:05:09 -0500 (EST) "Andrew A. Senko"
<senko@reston.ans.net> writes:

>One thing to lookout for is that the radiator is correct for an Olds.
>I
>got a 4 row rad once that had the drain valve on the bottom of the new
>radiator.  This was a problem because it wouldn't sit in the car
>properly,
>and I would never have been able to easily reach the drain valve.
>The drain valve on the radiator should face the engine.


             My Olds has a petcock that goes straight down so that is not
a correct identifier.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 13:42:38 -0500
From: "Paul L. Fikaris" <fikaris@en.com>
Subject: Interesting Olds F/S

1993 Oldsmobile GTS-1 Endurance Racer
Ready for 24-Hours of Daytona
Everything New!
Cosworth V-8, Penske's, Exchangers & Coolers, Dual Systems, Spares
A steal at $36,500

Looks like a Cutlass on a LOT of steroids!


Paul L. Fikaris
fikaris@en.com
69 Delta 88 Conv 455

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 11:50:50 -0700 (MST)
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
Subject: Re: 1971 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

On Fri, 19 Dec 1997, Tom Williams wrote:

> Hi All,
>    I stopped and looked at a 71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible last night
> and was just testing the waters to see if it is worth buying and fixing
> or let it go.
> The car is an automatic, 350, power steering, power brakes, A/C, cruise,
> power top, bench seat.
> As far as the condition ha! here we go, the trunk was solid except buy
> the inter wheel wells, the quarters both need replaced, the fenders need
> at least one replaced, and the floor boards are bad on both the
> passenger and drivers side (ie: like the car on the Flinstones just not
> quite that far gone yet.) The top needs replaced and the interior needs
> replaced, the motor runs good but needs to be cleaned and a new sending
> unit installed, the air does not work but he has all the parts including
> a new compressor to replace the bad one. Also one last thing the front
> end bushings are bad and need to be replaced but he has new ones in the
> box that go with.
> As far as the price is concerned he was asking $2200.00 about 2 weeks
> ago and has now dropped the price to $1800.00 but I know he would listen
> very strongly to a cash price of about $1000.00
>
> Thanks for any replies on this car.

Hey Tom,
Some guy I came across wanted $5000 for a 72 convertible in comparable
condition.  I think he was really really stoned.

>
> Tom Williams
> 70 W31
>

Ray dealing with "El Nino" in the Sonoran Desert Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 13:20:53 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: Re: Transporting car across the country

>> Their fee is nominal since they get to use the
>> car on the way out.  Anyone heard of such a thing?
>
>Chris
>
> Yup. It is called a drive-away.
[...horror story deleted...]

Yeah, be careful.

Y'know, for the prices you quoted (in the original post), it sounds
like it would be cheaper to drive the car there yourself (or have a
friend do it) and buy a ticket back by train or plane... or find a
driveaway service at the destination and drive someone else's
car back to your home.

And as for whether it would make the trip... I'd consider how far
the driving distance is, and compare how long it took to rack up
that many miles in the car around town (stopping and starting,
etc.). If the car did that much distance locally without barfing, I'd
be optimistic about it racking up the same mileage on the highway
without further problems.

Maybe we can organize a car driveaway program among the list
members here, for that matter!
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 15:11:21 -0500
From: "Robert T. Handren, Jr." <bobhandren@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Subject: Re: Transporting car across the country

Yes, check out Hemmings _but_ based on personal bad experience, if you come
acorss Classic Express out of Las Vegas, NV I suggest you give a shout and
I'll tell you about my experiences with them.

I have transported several cars across the US twice, MD to CA and return.
The trip back I took the advice of a friend in MD and used a fellow with an
open hauler. Holds three cars on a Featherlite aluminum (aluminium for the
our northern brothers) trailer. The cars came through without a scratch.
Which as you can guess was _not_ the case with the higher buck enclosed
previous shipment with the above carrier.

Bob Handren
67 W-30 Post Modified
70 SX Convert

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 14:47:09 -0600
From: "Ron Bolz" <bolzins@kanza.net>
Subject: Re: 1970 dash overlays

- ----------
> From: Mikey tvb <Mikeytvb@aol.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 1970 dash overlays
> Date: Wednesday, December 17, 1997 8:46 PM
>
> you guys might want to try "year one".  my friend and i are currently
> restoring a 70 442.  when he bought the car it was in pieces and all the
> restoration parts were with it.  included was a woodgrain dash overlay.
the
> package said year one. all the other parts for the car were bought from
year
> one.
>
> mikey tvb@aol.com
> 73 cutlass w/403

i have a 70 olds 442 conv.  took on the power tour in 97.  had great time.
i was hopeful to see another 70 olds on the tour. maybe 98?
ron bolzins@kanza.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 15:06:14 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: 1970 Cutlass S

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I was at a junque yarde today and found a 1970 Cutlass S hardtop w/a =
nice rust free body.  There was no engine or transmission.  It is cream =
w/cream vinyl top & gold interior.  The interior is rather good  but one =
door is missing.  The carpet is nice & so is the ramaining door panel & =
dash.  If anyone is interested in this car i could check on the price.  =
The man usually sells things for the $200 range.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BD0BC6.7C4B9440
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3Dªffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 face=3D"Lucida Calligraphy" size=3D2>I was at =
a junque=20
yarde today and found a 1970 Cutlass S hardtop w/a nice rust free =
body.&nbsp;=20
There was no engine or transmission.&nbsp; It is cream w/cream vinyl top =
&amp;=20
gold interior.&nbsp; The interior is rather good&nbsp; but one door is=20
missing.&nbsp; The carpet is nice &amp; so is the ramaining door panel =
&amp;=20
dash.&nbsp; If anyone is interested in this car i could check on the=20
price.&nbsp; The man usually sells things for the $200 =
range.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 face=3D"Lucida Calligraphy" =
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 face=3D"Lucida Calligraphy" size=3D2>Bill=20
Culp&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <A=20
href=3D"mailto:bculp@HiWAAY.net">bculp@HiWAAY.net</A><BR>Decatur, =
Alabama<BR>'62=20
Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 =
convertible</FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BD0BC6.7C4B9440--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 16:00:28 -0600
From: Eric.Aksomitis@swp.com
Subject: RE:  Re: 4 core radiator

My 75 Olds's all had motor-facing drain valves, except for the ones that had
no drain valve.
My 78 had the down-facing one.  This valve was covered from dirt, and 1 000
times easier to drain the a-freeze into a bucket.

I have come to the conclusion that the rad-drain-plug location , heater-hose
return location , and oil-plug size are not 'Carved In Stone'
Perhaps one could advertise their car as having a 'rare' combination of
these to increase the value of the car (That combined with the original air
in the tires would be a real selling point, but who would want to sell a
nice oldsmobile to anybody that dumb?)

On Thu, 18 Dec 1997 11:05:09 -0500 (EST) "Andrew A. Senko"
<senko@reston.ans.net> writes:

>One thing to lookout for is that the radiator is correct for an Olds.
>I
>got a 4 row rad once that had the drain valve on the bottom of the new
>radiator.  This was a problem because it wouldn't sit in the car
>properly,
>and I would never have been able to easily reach the drain valve.
>The drain valve on the radiator should face the engine.

             My Olds has a petcock that goes straight down so that is not
a correct identifier.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 17:09:57 -0500
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: John Pajak

Dam John.........

Fernando Proietto
A/Manager
Systems Analyst - Informatics Division
Environment Canada
Ontario Region - Monitoring & Systems Branch
4905 Dufferin St.
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: John Pajak[SMTP:jspajak@rocketmail.com]
> Sent: Thursday, December 18, 1997 8:10 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: John Pajak
>
> ---Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU> wrote:
>
> > How many of these cars are actually running and in good shape?
>
> !!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> 65 Delta 88 2dr : runs, tagged, presentable, but could use paint
> 66 Toronado     : runs, tagged, same
> 69 Cutlass      : runs, but not tagged, really needs paint/interior
> 70 Cutlass S 2dr: runs, tagged, won't always back up, needs paint
> 70 Cutlass S 2dr: runs poorly, future race car
> 70 Cutlass S W31: barely runs, needs resto
> 70 442 W30 conv : runs, tagged, could use paint
> 71 Supreme      : runs, tagged, new paint
> 72 Delta 88 conv: runs, not tagged, needs rust repair/paint
> 72 Cutlass conv : runs, not tagged, some body damage
> 72 442 W30 conv : runs, tagged, needs full cosmetics
> 86 Cutlass Supreme: runs, tagged, presentable
>
> + 4 70-72 parts cars
>
> Hope I haven't bored y'all :)
>
> John Pajak (Internut)                 JSPajak@rocketmail.com
> Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 15:16:56
From: <terrywiles@usa.net>
Subject: Ram Air?

Hello All, I am new here.   I have been hooked on Rocket power for only a few
years, haveing been mostly a chevy guy.   I am winding down on my first Olds
project, a '70 Cutlass Supreme.   You can check it out here:

http://www.442.com/wiles.html

Should be there for a few days yet, at least.   After building one myself, I
think that I am hooked for good now! Anyway, I am looking at adding a Ram Air
system.   I believe that I am going to get the air box itself from Air Inlet
Systems (in the back of most mags).   I am not sure where to route the hoses
though.   Some people say that they should run streight to the grille, which is
hard on an Olds.   Other people say that it is OK to extend the hoses to scoops
under the front bumper.   (I believe the '69 442 W-30 -or- 32 had this as a
factory option.)   Any good ideas?   I would like to fabricate the scoops
myself, if that is the way to go.   I think that they could be made to accent
the car pretty well, unless someone knows of a reasonable place to buy them?


____________________________________________________________________
Get free e-mail and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 14:35:33 -0800
From: Erik <erikreb@netbridge.net>
Subject: Re: Intake Manifold Question

Erik wrote:
>
> Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com wrote:
> >
> > Erik,
> >
> > I'll send this one to you too...
> > Here's a tip from a racing buddy of mine...use a gasket adhesive instead of
> > gasket material or silicone, this will hold the gasket (I like good Fel-Pro
> > cork) in place and prevent the gasket creeping when torqued down. The
> > silicon will act as a lubricrant and the gasket will move!
> >
> > Hey, got another Performer for a 455 you want to sell?
> >
> > I WANT ONE!!! but I don't want to pay the $250 everybody wants for a new
> > one!
> > Scott Wheeler
> > 68 442 Conv-Dallas

 Scott,

 Sorry, this one is the only one I have.  If i had one, it would be
 yours.  Also, are u saying that I should use the Fel-Pro Cork around
 both the intake and water ports?  Also, do I need to put any sealer or
 cork between the top of the gasket and the Intake Manifold?

 Thanks again, this server has given me more help than anything else.

 Erik B.
 1972 Cutlass 'S'

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 14:36:07 -0800
From: Erik <erikreb@netbridge.net>
Subject: Re: Gasket Questions

Erik wrote:
>
> Tom Lentz wrote:
> >
> > The Haynes manual I have says to clean the entire bolt and dip in oil
> > before reinstalling.  I did this and used the torque sequence given there
> > too.
> >
> > I've done two of these so far, one 260 and one 307, both with aluminum
> > intakes.  Both have held up fine.  I use the fel-pro "turkey tray" gasket,
> > and use the supplied brush tack (around intake ports) and supplied RTV
> > silicone (around water ports).  I use the rubber end gaskets, but put a
> > dollop of blue RTV in each corner before installing them.
> >
> > The intake ports are the bigger ones, there's 4 per side, rectangular
> > shaped.
> >
> > Oh, and someone else asked about valve cover gaskets.  I recommend the
> > rubber ones, install them dry and don't overtorque your bolts.  I used the
> > rubber ones in my Hurst/Olds and they haven't leaked since (2+ years with
> > synthetic oil!).  I replaced the ones on my fiance's 350 with the cork
> > ones, and they're leaking again after a year.  Gonna use rubber ones there
> > this time.  The biggest tip I can give for valve cover gaskets (besides
> > clean both surfaces real good!) is to look at the area around the bolt
> > holes when you take them off.  I'll bet it's slightly dented in from
> > people over-torquing them.  Place the lip of the valve cover upside down
> > over the edge of your workbench and gently tap the area around the hole
> > down flat again with a hammer.  You wouldn't believe how dented the ones
> > on my '78 Cutlass were, no wonder it was leaking oil like a sieve (well,
> > it is a Ch*vy engine, so that may also have something to do with it :-) ).
> >
> > Erik wrote:
> >
> > > How do I tell the difference between the intake ports and the water
> > > ports?
> > >
> > > Also, one of the mechanics told me before I torque the bolts down, put
> > > oil on the threads.  He said if I dont I wont get an accurate torque
> > > reading.  But in my Chiltons Olds manual, it tells me if I put oil on
> > > the threads that I WILL get an inacurrate reading.
> >
> > --
> > Tom Lentz, tlentz@ior.com                          '84 Hurst/Olds
> > http://www.ior.com/~tlentz                         '78 Cutlass Supreme
> > Network Admin, CPM Corp, Spokane, WA.              '78 Chev 1/2ton (Olds
> > 350)

 Dear Tom,

 Thanks, u have been alot of help!

 Erik B.
 1972 Cutlass 'S'

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 17:03:46 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Re: Ram Air?

Ditto!

does anybody have any fabricating ideas for the ram air scoops...other than
spending the small fortune on factory dupes?

I want some too!

Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas




terrywiles@usa.net on 12/18/97 09:16:56 AM

Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

To:   oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
cc:    (bcc: Scott Wheeler/PrePress/PBI)
Subject:  Ram Air?




Hello All, I am new here.   I have been hooked on Rocket power for only a
few years, haveing been mostly a chevy guy.   I am winding down on my first
Olds project, a '70 Cutlass Supreme.   You can check it out here:
http://www.442.com/wiles.html
Should be there for a few days yet, at least.   After building one myself,
I think that I am hooked for good now!
Anyway, I am looking at adding a Ram Air system.   I believe that I am
going to get the air box itself from Air Inlet Systems (in the back of most
mags).   I am not sure where to route the hoses though.   Some people say
that they should run streight to the grille, which is hard on an Olds.
Other people say that it is OK to extend the hoses to scoops under the
front bumper.   (I believe the '69 442 W-30 -or- 32 had this as a factory
option.)   Any good ideas?   I would like to fabricate the scoops myself,
if that is the way to go.   I think that they could be made to accent the
car pretty well, unless someone knows of a reasonable place to buy them?

____________________________________________________________________
Get free e-mail and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 14:56:32 -0800
From: Erik <erikreb@netbridge.net>
Subject: Re: Gasket Questions

Tom Lentz wrote:
>
> The Haynes manual I have says to clean the entire bolt and dip in oil
> before reinstalling.  I did this and used the torque sequence given there
> too.
In my Chiltons manual it tells me to torque them to 25.  It doesnt say
to dip it in oil, if it wanted me to it would have a ª7 next to it(ª7
says to dip entire bolt in oil and clean.)  What should I do?
>
> I've done two of these so far, one 260 and one 307, both with aluminum
> intakes.  Both have held up fine.  I use the fel-pro "turkey tray" gasket,
> and use the supplied brush tack (around intake ports) and supplied RTV
> silicone (around water ports).  I use the rubber end gaskets, but put a
> dollop of blue RTV in each corner before installing them.
>
Do u have to put any sealer on the top of the gasket, which the manifold
sits on?

And what do u say about torqing the bolts. Start from the inside and go
out, or should I do like the book shows and go from the outside in?

Sorry if everybody has already answered these questions, I'm having
trouble with my email.

Thanks,

Erik B.
'72 Cutlass 'S'

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 18:28:39 -0800
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: SX Electrical Woes

Padavano.Joe wrote:

> Doc Bob wrote:
>
> Got around to working on the SX today, and chased away some of my
> electrical...
>
> <snip detailed box score>
>
> I suspected bad grounds,...It seems that the badly-corroded backside
> of the
> bumper no longer makes good contact with the frame bracket. I was
> surprised,
> though, because the lights *did* work, and the left side seemed to
> work
> quite well.
>
>      Bob,
>
>      Actually, the trick here is that with the ground gone, there is a
>
>      sneak circuit back through the other filament in the 1157 bulb,
> which
>      will ground the turn signal circuit through the tail light
> circuit.
>      The dim glow usually is from the tail light filament, not the
> turn
>      signal one.  I had a similar problem with the front 1157s on one
> of
>      the cars one time.  Seems like the ground pigtail from the
> forward
>      compartment lamp harness (the black wire which has a terminal lug
>
>      screwed to the core support) had come loose/corroded.  I had the
>      problem of the turn signals glowing dimly and flashing slowly.
> Taking
>      the lens off of the lamp allowed me to see that _both_ filaments
> were
>      glowing dimly.  That makes sense if you look at the following
> diagram:
>
>                     Turn Signal ___            ___ Light Filament
>                     Filament       \          /
>                                     \        /
>                                   /WWWW\   /WWWW\
>                                   |     \ /     |
>                                   |      |      |
>                  From Turn Sig--->|      |      |<---From Lights
>                                        __|__
>                                         ___   GND
>                                          _
>
>      Obviously, removing the ground causes the current to seek another
>
>      path.
>
>      Joe Padavano
>      padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>      66 442
>      68 W-30
>      69 H/O
>      70 W-30

   better known as backfeeding a ground............Hoagie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 18:59:37 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Transporting car across the country

Green, Andrew wrote:

>
> Maybe we can organize a car driveaway program among the list
> members here, for that matter!

That would be something I would really enjoy doing.  Sounds like a good
idea Andrew.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 16:26:26 PST
From: "John Stolarski" <oldscs350@hotmail.com>
Subject: F/S 1 SS 15" Wheel

For anyone that wants it, I have come across a 15" wheel, it is missing
the center and ring, but the 5 trim rings are there...the wheel its self
is in good condition..just needs some paint...could make a good
spare...if you want it, make me an offer...




  John Stolarski
'86 Cutlass Supreme
 The "Black Mariah"


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 19:25:55 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Transporting car across the country

Just a thought:
I have a friend who works for TNT car transport near L.A.  I talked her
into a discount for any Olds mailing list members that would need a car
shipped anywhere in the US, DOOR to DOOR.  Call 1-800-8872-8681 from 8-4
Pacific time and ask for Sandy.  She's really cool.  Be sure to tell her
that you are an Olds list member and I referred you, and she'll give you
a 5% discount.  Even if you are just thinking about it, she'll give you
a free quote over the phone.  Never hurts to ask.  I have no idea what
the prices run, but the quoted prices also provide full-coverage
insurance.  It was around $1000 from Miami to L.A., as an example she
gave me.   Probably not as good a deal as a driveaway, but at least it's
insured.  You'll have to call her for any further details, because I
don't have any more.

- --
Mike Rothe
69 H/O
71 442 HT
85 442 T-top
76 GMC 1/2 ton, 502 c.i.

http://pages.prodigy.net/mrothe/rocket.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 19:29:35 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Transporting car across the country

OOPS!  I mis typed the TNT car transport number.  The correct number is
1-800-872-8681.  Remember to ask for Sandy.
- --
Mike Rothe
69 H/O
71 442 HT
85 442 T-top
76 GMC 1/2 ton, 502 c.i.

http://pages.prodigy.net/mrothe/rocket.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 20:31:44 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Non-Olds (Chris Farley)

Wow.  I just heard the sad news.  One of comedy's funniest guys has
died.  He was one of my favorites.  I'll miss him.
- --
Mike Rothe
69 H/O
71 442 HT
85 442 T-top
76 GMC 1/2 ton, 502 c.i.

http://pages.prodigy.net/mrothe/rocket.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 21:00:03 EST
From: W30442CS <W30442CS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Inline filters/reply

i use this set up on my w-31 with no problems.  i went this route because the
car had set so long and was afraid of poss. rust and debri in the gas tank.
boy was i glad i did!  tank was garbage!  after replacement of the tank,i
decided to leave the extra inline filter inplace to safe guard the fuel pump.
in car a year with no problems.   steven.  w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 21:18:08 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: shoot me now

what is so hard to figure out, E does stand for Exhaust, Exhaust vapors
from the crankcase are vented out through an oil separator then to the
throttle body, and back thru the engine. don't make this difficult.

AEROTECH
================
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRGGGHHHHHH!

What's so hard to figger out?

How about, how does exhaust get into the crankcase [in any appreciable
volume]? Lesee, hmmm... exhaust valve, port, manifold, pipe, muffler,
atmosphere... where along there was the diversion to the crankcase?
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 21:19:21 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: xmas card

I got a Christmas card from some folks I helped out with a few small items last
year.. including a photo of "their baby"... the '66 442 convertible that the
pcs went into! How cute!
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 21:25:36 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: test lifter

You may have to pull the valve covers and check the valve geometry throughout
the cycle.  This usually requires the replacement of the hydraulic lifter with
a solid lifter temporarily to perform the checks.
===============
HIGHLY advised anytime you have changed much over the stock settings. I found
that, for a "solid lifter" it's easy to just dismantle and clean a used one,
then reassemble it with Krazy Glue. Works good enough to check valve action-
just tighten the pedestal down until the lash is barely gone [on the base
circle of course]. Better yet- cut an old pushrod apart near the end, take 
about
1/4" out of it, thread both insides with whatever fits, and put a threaded rod
in the insides, with a pair of nuts to make sure the length stays where you
set it. Adjust it short, tighten down the rocker pedestal properly, then remove
the valvetrain slack with the impromptu adjustable p'rod. Then ck valve action.
NOT for real use, obviously, it'd never hold up and no oil passage provision,
but works fine for setup checking.
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 21:28:32 -0500
From: Howard H <howardh@magicnet.net>
Subject: "84 Hurst Wheel

I'm in search of a "Super Stock Chrome" wheel for my '84 Hurst. At least
that's the nomenclature used in my manual.
Basically this is the original 15" chrome wheel with the red stripe on the
outer edge of the rim. Same wheel I beleive is on the '83 Hurst. If anybody
has one or a lead on one, or does anyone know if and where they can be
straightened (mine is out of round) please let me know.
Thanks and Happy Holidays to all!


      ___   ___ ___
     /  /  /  //  /
    /  /__/  //  /
   /  HURST //  /
  /  /  /  //  /_______
 /__/  /__//  //  ___  \
          /  //  /   \  \
         /  //  /OLDS/  /
        /  / \  \___/  /
       /__/   \_______/

  Howard Hosenbold
  howardh@magicnet.net
  1984 Hurst Olds
  Production ª 2748
  OCA ª 024551
  HOCA ª 1259
  OCF ª 24551

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 21:29:42 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: oil critical bolts

Also, one of the mechanics told me before I torque the bolts down, put
oil on the threads.  He said if I dont I wont get an accurate torque
reading.  But in my Chiltons Olds manual, it tells me if I put oil on
the threads that I WILL get an inacurrate reading.
Erik B.
- ------
I've always been told NOT to put oil on them, but who knows for sure... I've
done
 it both ways.. I've gotten good seals either way..
====================
Do what the OLDS manual says. Chilton's is even more full of typos & such than
the factory manual is. Critical bolts were designed to be torked oiled by Olds.
Mains, rods, head, intake. Maybe a couple more. My uncle had an old Motor's
manual that listed the Olds piston-wall clearance at 0.0075"... I was comparing
that to other brands' figures, gee, most cars are .002-.003"... later I buy a
real Olds service manual... oh, look, the figure is 0.00075" in there! Well,
you know, one thousandth, ten thousandths, whatever, it's just piston- wall
clearance, right?
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 21:28:14 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: shoot me now

>>what is so hard to figure out, E does stand for Exhaust, Exhaust vapors
>>from the crankcase are vented out through an oil separator then to the
>>throttle body, and back thru the engine. don't make this difficult.

Sure, the Quad4's are different, but HOW IN H*LL do you get EXHAUST
GASES in the CRANKCASE?!?

We're not making this difficult....we're making it RIGHT!

> ===============================================
> AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRGGGHHHHHH!
>
I said a lot more when I first read the above...

- ------------------------------------------
S. Dave Ward  (mailto:ward@ptbo.igs.net)

'78 Delta 88 Royale (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 R.B.   (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC Sierra 4x4  (305 TBI)

(Ennismore, Ontario, CANADA)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 21:24:44 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Ram Air?

Scott,
I'm new to the web and the Olds info line. My name is Rob Thomas and
I think I can steer you in a pretty good direction regarding a ram air system.
I have a 69 442 that I wanted to install a ram air system on for performance
gain. I found a source for aftermarket under bumper scoops from an outfit
called
Best of Class , 2927 Sunset Waukegan, 60087  PH: 708-623-5529
I looked for about 3 years to find a set that were as close to original as
I've ever
seen. Cost was nominal considering what they are. Pair of scoops with extra
stainless trim lip moulding. They also have the support brackets that bolt to
the
inner finderwells. I don't remember the exact cost but I think I got the pair
with
with brackets for around $150. As far as the Air cleaner assembly I ended up
making
my own from a stock 72' 4bbl cleaner housing. removed the snorkel and replaced
it with one from a mid 80's model (used two). Hoses were also found in junk
yard
from 70 Toro which are the same length as original W-30/31/32 and work
perfect.
Have had lots of people comment trying to figure out how/where I came up with
this system. Bottom line I have less than $200 invested for a system that
looks
almost bone stock and is definately functional.
Any addtl questions I would be glad to assist.

Good luck
R.THOMAS

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 21:45:04 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: oil critical bolts

> Also, one of the mechanics told me before I torque the bolts down, put
> oil on the threads.  He said if I dont I wont get an accurate torque
> reading.  But in my Chiltons Olds manual, it tells me if I put oil on
> the threads that I WILL get an inacurrate reading.
> Erik B.
- ------
> I've always been told NOT to put oil on them, but who knows for sure... I've
> done it both ways.. I've gotten good seals either way..

Or, you could always torque bolts like the Ford mechanics do;  tighten
till it snaps, then back off half a turn...
- --
S. Dave Ward  (mailto:ward@ptbo.igs.net)

'78 Delta 88 Royale (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 R.B.   (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC Sierra 4x4  (305 TBI)

(Ennismore, Ontario, CANADA)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 21:46:30 EST
From: Rowley3258 <Rowley3258@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Olds History Center

Hi!  I believe the address you want is: 4000 N. Grand River Ave., Lansing, Mi.
48917... However,  Oldsmobile Historical Center, 920 Townsend Ave, Lansing,
Mi. 48921.   Will also get to where U want.
I am a toolmaker for Oldsmobile here in Lansing.
If anything else please feel free to contact me.
Brian K. Rowley


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 19:56:05 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: shoot me now

> Sure, the Quad4's are different, but HOW IN H*LL do you get EXHAUST
> GASES in the CRANKCASE?!?

Uhhh, I'll type it slowly for y'all...  B-L-O-W--B-Y

Also much easier if you have big holes in your pistons! ;)

Crankcase fumes are combustible.  Don't believe me?  Throw a match in
the oil pan.  (I'm joking!  DON'T try it!)  PCV takes this stuff in to
reburn it (basically...)  I'm thinking this started out as an EGR
thread, so I'm not sure what wires got crossed, but that's that...

> We're not making this difficult....we're making it RIGHT!

Good luck! :)


               Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
        Sidney Montana

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 22:21:21 -0500
From: Howie <qcquad@cuny.campus.mci.net>
Subject: sway bars

would anyone knows places (other than jc whitney) to get a rear sway bar
for my 71 cultass? nothing against jc, but i've heard unpleasant things
about them.

Howie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 22:33:09 EST
From: CRuper1 <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: I'll help.. (Re: Transporting car across the country)

In a message dated 97-12-18 14:23:52 EST, you write:

<<
 And as for whether it would make the trip... I'd consider how far
 the driving distance is, and compare how long it took to rack up
 that many miles in the car around town (stopping and starting,
 etc.). If the car did that much distance locally without barfing, I'd
 be optimistic about it racking up the same mileage on the highway
 without further problems.

 Maybe we can organize a car driveaway program among the list
 members here, for that matter!
 --
 Andrew C. Green  >>

Yep, I'll help... soooo...  does anybody have a '69 Cutlass H/O in need of
going from the general Illinois area to California?...  :-)....

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 22:37:27 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: shoot me now

Charley Buehner wrote:
>
> > Sure, the Quad4's are different, but HOW IN H*LL do you get EXHAUST
> > GASES in the CRANKCASE?!?
>
> Uhhh, I'll type it slowly for y'all...  B-L-O-W--B-Y

But only minor amounts;  Aerotech (?) made it clear that there was
*lots* of exhaust gases in the crankcase, and that it was exhaust (and
*only* exhaust) gases that were drawn from the crankcase via EGR.
Exhaust gases in the c'case shouldn't be in great quantities, unless, as
you said, you have a piston that's gone VVK.  The only gases that should
be in there are the volatile fumes from the oil breakdown...

Has anybody else, aside from Aerotech (?) ever heard of an EGR running
out of a crankcase?  A PCV, yes....an EGR, no.  Any EGR I've ever seen
draws the exhaust gases from the manifold, because that's where 99% of
the exhaust gases go through.  It wouldn't make sense trying to draw
exhaust gases from the c'case...(it's like trying to climb in a second
floor window instead of walking through the door).

I was ready to jump all over this, but decided to bite my tongue, just
incase there actually is a such thing.  If there *is*, I'll believe the
thread about the 789hp 307...

- ----------------------------------------
S. Dave Ward  (mailto:ward@ptbo.igs.net)

'78 Delta 88 Royale (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 R.B.   (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC Sierra 4x4  (305 TBI)

(Ennismore, Ontario, CANADA)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 19:48:10 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: John Pajak

After John's car condition synopsis:

I was a little more vague to a friend I was writing to - I said "2 finished
- - 4 need help".


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 19:50:30 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: 1971 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

cash price of about $1000.00

Sounds fair - list the prices on what it'll take just to get it looking
presentable, not to mention 'weather-worthy' (top, floorpans, etc.) and he
should think hard on that $1k


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 19:53:03 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Transporting car across the country

I'll volunteer for the California - Arizona portion of the drive.....


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/

*** NEW ***
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 23:11:29 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Is the server down, or am I gone?

Is the server down?
- --
                 Jerry Christopher
     ___        HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
 ___/.o \__,      1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
_=O------O=__________It ain't my father's Oldsmobile_______

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 23:12:40 +0500
From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Subject: Re: Ram Air?

> I am looking at adding a Ram Air system.   I believe that I am going to
get the air box itself from Air Inlet >Systems (in the back of most mags).
<snip>
> Other people say that it is OK to >extend the hoses to scoops under the
front bumper.   (I believe the '69 >442 W-30 -or- 32 had this as a >factory
option.)   I would like to fabricate the scoops >myself, if that is the way
to go.   I >think that they could be made to accent the car pretty well,
unless >someone knows of a reasonable place >to buy them?

Some folks have suggested finding a big pair of defrost vents from an old
car or truck in a junkyard.  You can find them all over the place that will
fit a 2.5" hose.  The problem would just be finding one that would form a
big enough scoop.

I've always wanted to try fabricating them from cardboard or balsa wood
coated with some fiberglass mat.  It's been done to build custom consoles,
I've read about it in Hot Rod.  Work with cardboard 'till you get a shape
you like and then cover it with fiberglass.  Since the balsa wood or
cardboard would end up on the inside of the scoop, I'd coat it with some
fiberglass resin to seal it so water wouldn't warp it or otherwise goop it
up.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cultass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 20:35:38 -0700
From: "Anthony Marstall" <anthony.marstall@mailcity.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Olds History Center

>mjones@gleep.com wrote:
>>
>> Could someone email me the address of the Oldsmobile History Center?  I
>> am very interested in using this service to find out more information
>> about my '78 Delta 88.
>>
>> Mike Jones
>> '78 Delta 88 2dr
>
>I think it is in the Oldsmobile FAQ list Mike.  I don't have it handy,
>but I think you can find it there.
>
>Don Sowers
>Nicholasville, KY
>
Where is the FAQ list?

Anthony Marstall
'87 Trofeo
Pittsburg KS





Free web-based e-mail, Forever, From anywhere!
http://www.mailcity.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Dec 1997 21:36:50 -0700
From: Dustin Cross <livnrt@mssl.uswest.net>
Subject: rim size

anybody happen to know what size the tires/rims are on the '90s CS?
(all I know is they are 16"s)

thanks
      Dustin

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Dec 1997 00:03:40 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: OHC address

Could someone email me the address of the Oldsmobile History Center?  I
am very interested in using this service to find out more information
about my '78 Delta 88.
Mike Jones
====================
Here 'tis for all y'all...

> Oldsmobile History Center
> 920 Townsend Street
> Lansing, Michigan 48921-0001
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Dec 1997 00:07:58 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: vote

Bob H wrote:

They've changed the method of voting, it's actually a bit easier, I think. All
you have to do is sent an email to:
                  services@myclassiccar.com
with an indication of which car you are voting for.
Mine is 16 in case you forgot.
========================
But, Bob, you wouldn't let me drive your car at the photo session!
Ho, ho! The other guy let me drive his car...

Seriously, I doubt we could agree on any ONE of these choices, so we
better just vote & keep silent on 'zactly how we voted. Obvious 'divide &
conquer' strategy though...
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Dec 1997 00:09:22 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: teaching opportunities

Still not as bad as "You gotta
four-fourty-two in that?"
==================
I never heard any other suggestions for the proper response to such a
question... did not that missive I sent make it to the list?

- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Dec 1997 00:11:16 -0500 (EST)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: LA WOMN

>peg (the perfect Oldsmobile woman) d'oh!
Hey - I guess that leaves me with the title of "Oldest Oldsmobile woman" - !!!

The rest have original black and gold plates but I'm getting LA (heart
symbol) WOMN for my '66 Toro (LA Woman - I'm a Doors fan and its an orig.
LA car).
Lisa Madsen
=============
Yikes, and with the Toro's know propensity for catching fire...

"I see your hair is burning
Hills are filled with fire"

Let's hope not!
- --
Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Dec 97 0:12:34 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: heat the garage (options semi-long)

At 11:59 PM 12/17/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I am looking for recommendations for heating a 22X25' garage. The heater
>that was installed in the garage when I bought the place went on the fritz,
>and I'm looking to replace it. Although, after reading Greg's post about
>looking forward to a 30 degree day to do radiator work, it seems like folly
>to heat a Virginia garage. But, I'm gonna do it anyway. So, what I'm
>thinking is a propane based torpedo style heater with electronic ignition
>and a thermostat. I'm looking at propane because the potential vapors from
>a liquid fuel like kerosene make me nervous, and I've used several electric
>space heaters with disappointing results. I am particularly interested in
>recommendations on what BTU range it would take to raise the temp. in the
>garage 20-30 degrees over a period of several hours.


    If at all possible a natural gas furnace is the way to go.  Use one
that's in the 35k to 50k BTU range for that size garage.  Many units of that
size are available used....well, around here anyway. Obviously if the garage
is detatched your going to have to take the run from the house.  As I think
of this, there are many areas of the country that wouldn't normally have a
need for fuel such as natural gas to produce heat in a structure and then
again there are areas where electric BTU's are cheaper than natural gas
BTU's.  Wood stoves are an option and can be fairly inexpensive but labor
intensive.  So to answer the question as to the output BTU's that would
raise the temperature 20-30 degrees over a period of several hours would be
to use an electric ceramic unit that is used to heat mass (not air) such as
the floor, structure, car, or any other large mass part in the area.  Again
we are talking about several hours here.  What I use is an electric forced
air furnace that I took out of a house after the moritorium was lifted on
natural gas installations in about '76. I removed the thermostat and
replaced it with a switch so that when I come home from work during the
winter when the temp is under 35 degrees, throw the switch, go in the house,
change, eat dinner and within 40 minutes my garage is about 65 degrees. But
actually you can get close to the same result by pulling the 4-4-2 out of
the garage and letting it run for about 45 minutes and then bringing it back
in, shut it down and let it set for about an hour before I go back out into
the garage to work on it. That heated mass will warm a 22'x25' area (approx.
4400 cu.ft.) about 25 degrees for a couple of hours.


   Glenn
   '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Dec 1997 00:38:43 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile FAQ

Anthony Marstall wrote:
>
> >mjones@gleep.com wrote:
> >>
> >> Could someone email me the address of the Oldsmobile History Center?
> >>
> >> Mike Jones
> >> '78 Delta 88 2dr
> >
> >I think it is in the Oldsmobile FAQ list Mike.  I don't have it handy, but I
think you can find it there. > > > >Don Sowers > >Nicholasville, KY > > > Where
is the FAQ list? > > Anthony Marstall

LOADS of Oldsmobile information including the FAQ (frequently asked
questions) is located on Bryceman's excellent web site located at
http://www.442.com/

Happy reading!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Dec 1997 00:49:36 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: LA WOMN

Chris Brown Witt wrote:
>
> >peg (the perfect Oldsmobile woman) d'oh!
> Hey - I guess that leaves me with the title of "Oldest Oldsmobile woman" - 
!!!
>
> The rest have original black and gold plates but I'm getting LA (heart
> symbol) WOMN for my '66 Toro (LA Woman - I'm a Doors fan and its an orig.
> LA car).
> Lisa Madsen
> =============
> Yikes, and with the Toro's know propensity for catching fire...
>
> "I see your hair is burning
> Hills are filled with fire"
>
> Let's hope not!
> --
> Chris  B. Witt

Lisa, it is nice to know people that appreciate the finer things in
life.  To love Oldsmobiles AND be a big Doors fan.  Life is GOOD!  The
Doors have been my favorite group since the mid 60s.  A lot of the music
has a strange haunting sound.  Sounds twice as good cranked up big time
in a Cutlass of the ssame vintage.  Did you put a reverb in your car
too?  I bought a cheap one back then that was absolutely FINE.  It
sounded better than some of the big $ factory stuff I've had since
then.  I wonder if reverbs are still available?  Anybody know?  Good to
find a fellow Doors fanatic.  Well, back to work.  Later......

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky
(Cranking up Light My Fire)  Wish my amp-tuner wouldn't kick the circuit
breakers at only 150 watts on the speakers!

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª1018
*********************************
