To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1001


oldsmobile-digest    Wednesday, December 10 1997    Volume 01 : Number 1001



Re: diff codes (they DO exist)
Re: valve addition
Re: 200r4 linkage ???????
Re: 200r4 linkage ???????
15 x 7 wheels
H$lp!
Re: Power Tour
Re[4]: carb. fix info
New England Power Tour
Re: diff codes (they DO exist)
Re: '67 Cutlass frame/transmission mount problem
Re: 1969 Hurst Olds Ornament
1970 Cutlass
On the road again... (finally!)
Gear oil recommendatin for positraction differential
Time for Tires for the SX
SMOG
Re: Power Tour
Dec JWO - Pictures
Re: Gear oil recommendatin for positraction differential
Shipping a hood
RE:  Re: Power Tour
Tires
Re: 200r4 linkage ???????
Re: Gear oil recommendation for posi-traction differential:
Re: sounds
Re: valve addition
Re: '67 Cutlass frame/transmission mount problem
1993 W31 Achieva issues
Re: Tires
.
HEI & recurve question
Observations From an Olds Fan (Long)
Re: Gear oil recommendatin for positraction differential
Re: SMOG (long)
re:  How to kill a Quad4
Re: Observations From an Olds Fan (Long)
70 Burl Wood Grain (where did it all go?)
Re: 69 bucket seats
UNBOUNCE: 1970 Cutlass Woodgrain
Re: HEI & recurve question
Re: The Sounds of Being Young(er)
Re: diff codes (they DO exist)
Re: HEI & recurve question
Re: H$lp!
Re: HEI & recurve question
Merry Christmas All

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 05:51:09 -0500
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: diff codes (they DO exist)

dilligaf@tl.infi.net wrote:
>
> Mike wrote
>
> I have an "SL" on my 69 (3.91).  The first time I saw it, I thought it
> was a "7S".
>
>         Mike I am curious where you found the listing for a "SL" rear code.  
I
> have a '69 service manual and I don't see it listed.  "TO" is the code
> for a 3.91 anti-spin.  "S7" is a code for a 3.23 anti-spin.  I just
> wondered if there is another listing somewhere else.
>
>                                         Larry


The assembly manual shows it, as well as my car's rear axle.  For the
H/O (W46) only. The service manual has no reference at all to the H/O
stuff, which kinda sucks.   Actually, it is identical to the TO, rumored
only to have heavier duty (can you believe that) clutch spring preload.
- --
Mike Rothe
69 H/O
71 442 HT
85 442 T-top
76 GMC 1/2 ton, 502 c.i.

http://pages.prodigy.net/mrothe/rocket.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 06:26:15 +0000
From: ejhufnagel@juno.com (Edward J. Hufnagel)
Subject: Re: valve addition

CRuper wrote:

>
>You've got it.  Lets see the figures...
>
>Area of a 1.4 in. valve is: 1.539
>Area of a 2.8 in. valve is: 6.158
>
>So, two 1.4 in. valves would flow 3.078, or just slightly (.001) under
>the
>area of the 2.8 inch size.




          Must be the new math but by my calculations the 1.4" valves
flow approx. 50% less than the 2.8" which is alot more than .001"

          E.J.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 07:31:51 -0500
From: "Jason K. Adcock" <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: 200r4 linkage ???????

Ray wrote:
>
> You probably see them smiling because they're laughing at you.  The ladies
> I know think any kind of automotive enthusiasm is foolish.  Fools.
> Women should not be allowed to own cars or have opinions about them.
  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Uh ohh...
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 04:59:01 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: 200r4 linkage ???????

Jason K. Adcock wrote:
>
> Ray wrote:
> >
> > You probably see them smiling because they're laughing at you.  The ladies
> > I know think any kind of automotive enthusiasm is foolish.  Fools.
> > Women should not be allowed to own cars or have opinions about them.
>   ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>
> Uh ohh...

Maybe Ray meant the women he was talking about and not women in
general.  I think Lisa Madsen will have something to say about that!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 05:35:03 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: 15 x 7 wheels

- ---Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net> wrote:
Here's an interesting tid bit about these cars. Lots of them, even
without the F41 suspension had 15x7 wheels. Especially the wagons.
They are the small 5 on 4 3/4 bolt pattern. They will fit on all the
A-bodies.

!!!!
Jim, the full size 77-up wagons used the big bolt pattern wheels.
(They must: 82 Custom Cruiser wheels fit on my 72 88). Also 403 2 and
4 door Deltas of the same vintage also used the big bolt pattern
wheels because of the large brakes. Do the Cutlass Cruiser wagons have
the 15 x7s? What other cars have you found with plain 15x7s in the 4
3/4" pattern?

===
John Pajak (on a 15x7 quest)          JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

65 Delta 88 2dr    70 Cutlass S 2dr       72 Cutlass conv
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31       72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr   70 442 W30 conv        72 442 W30 conv
70 Cutlass S 2dr   71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme






_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 05:48:21 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: H$lp!

     H$lp! My TPS needs replacing (86 307). How difficult is it? I'm
not afraid of tearing into a 'regular' Qjet but this electronic one
has me concerned! Any special tools required?

TIA

===
John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

65 Delta 88 2dr    70 Cutlass S 2dr       72 Cutlass conv
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31       72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr   70 442 W30 conv        72 442 W30 conv
70 Cutlass S 2dr   71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme (with a
bad TPS)




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 09:12:00 -0500
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: Power Tour

100MPH, really?  Strikes me as fairly ambitious for muscle cars geared
generally for quarter mile bursts.  I know my 442 could not cruise at that
speed for long.  Probably be turning around 4500RPM....

>Just make sure your car is able to cruise at 100MPH for sustained periods
>of time through Nevada and other arid states.

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 97 09:44:41 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[4]: carb. fix info

Greg Beaulieu asked:

This makes me wonder... the service manual talks about diagnosing a
flooding problem and points to the in-the-carb fuel filter as one of the
possible causes. If you aren't running a filter in the carb, won't this
cause flooding?

     Greg,

     If you are referring to the carb diagnosis chart in the service
     manual, the way I read it, they are referring to a plugged filter
     causing the fuel to bypass the filter itself.  If you've ever taken
     the factory filter out of the carb, you will notice that there is a
     spring behind it pushing the filter up against its retention nut.  The
     purpose of this spring is twofold - one to hold the filter in place,
     and two to allow the filter to move back in the case of a plugged
     filter, thus acting as a bypass valve.  I believe it is this latter
     case which can cause the flooding referred to in the manual.

     Normally, fuel at a certain pressure flows through the filter.  If the
     filter becomes plugged, pressure will increase until the spring force
     is overcome, resulting in a higher pressure blast of fuel directed at
     the needle and seat.  This will likely overcome the seat pressure of
     the needle valve, possibly resulting in flooding.  Obviously, an
     inline filter upstream of the carb would not cause the same situation.

     Having said all this, I'm still somewhat at a loss to explain the
     phenomena.  All mechanical fuel pumps I've seen are self-regulating
     for pressure.  In other words, as the pressure in the line between the
     pump and the carb builds, the pump's diaphragm will be held in the
     extended position, with the pump pushrod simply "freewheeling" until
     that pressure drops again.  Note that the models with fuel return,
     like the 442s, don't even get to this point.  With this self
     regulation built in, I'm not sure how you could ever get to the point
     that, even with the plugged filter forcing the bypass spring to
     compress in the carb, the pressure would overcome the needle's seat
     pressure.  All I can figure is that they were accounting for
     production tolerances in spring forces, float settings, and pump
     pressure.

     I can present anecdotal evidence in the form of virtually every car I
     have ever owned, where I've installed the external inline filter and
     never had a flooding problem.  In fact, even the 66 442 tripower cars
     used an external fuel filter - one of the glass bowl units clamped to
     the oil filler tube.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 10:06:31 +0000
From: "Rick Copithorne" <Richardc@equitrac.com>
Subject: New England Power Tour

I noticed in this months Hot Rod that they will be doing a Power Tour
for us Nor' Eastern Boys/Gals. Is anyone thinking about doing this
one or no. It will start in New England and run to Florida. So far my
buddies and I are planning on it....That will be 2 Olds.
1964 Olds 442 F-85
Rick Copithorne <richardc@equitrac.com>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 14:08:59 -0800
From: dilligaf@tl.infi.net
Subject: Re: diff codes (they DO exist)

Thanks for the info.  I had the feeling it had something to do with
being a H/O.

Larry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 10:58:36 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: '67 Cutlass frame/transmission mount problem

>All ready to put my new 400/TH400 into my '67 ragrop. Drop it in, go to line
>up the transmission mount with the frame rail attachment points and find that
>the brackets on the frame are too far forward.  Check on my '67 HT parts car
>and  the frame mounting brackets are very long, and very different than the
>little short jobs on my convert. Trans mount/crossmember looks the same.
>
>Am I missing something? Seems very unlike GM to build a frame that would need
>special welding to accept a different trans--especially as because what I'm
>installiing is a box-stock equivalent of a '67 442 motor/trans combo.

Hmmm, I'm still trying to envision the difficulty you're encountering.
You've got the transmission crossmember in the same location as your HT,
and you've got the same length transmission in both (both short-tail
TH400's, right?). The engine sits in the same location, relative to the
frame, on both cars? But the original frame mounts (330, I'm imagining,
though it shouldn't make a difference; the external location of the mounts
is the same for all Olds V-8's) on the chassis are further forward on the
chassis than the mounts on your HT are, and the motor mounts on the 400's
block end up behind those frame mounts?

>Don't know what motor or trans came in my CS originally--or even if it was a
>stick.
>
>Anybody out there run across this? Before I go welding onto the frame just
>want to make sure I'm not using the proper crossmember or some simple cure.
>Now, it looks like I've got to weld some new perches onto the frame rails
>~8-10" back from the ones I've got.

Hmmm, are there any holes further back on the front crossmember to bolt the
frame mounts to? Would moving the motor mounts to the front two sets of
holes on the block be a possibility, perhaps combined with a shifting of
where the tranny crossmember is bolted to the side rails? Of course, the
best option is to mount it as the factory did, using the same style frame
and motor mounts in the original location, but that might not be the
easiest thing for you to do.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 11:01:00 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 1969 Hurst Olds Ornament

>>    I stopped in our local Walgreens store tonight and while there it
>> dawned on me to look for the 69 Hurst Olds tree ornament. They happened
>> to have about 25 of them. I was wondering if anyone knows how many of
>> these they are planning on producing? The price on these were $13.95 ea:
>>
>Hallmark also has a 69 H/O as part of their classic car series.

I think that's the same one; I've seen them everywhere that Hallmark
ornaments are sold, which is virtually everywhere. Seems like they have
envisioned a production run of about 10-15 million of them...
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 11:18:54 -0500
From: "James Meeks" <jimmeeks@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: 1970 Cutlass

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I finally located some OK replacements for the burl woodgrain on the =
main dash.  Problem is, the originals are missing and I am not sure what =
to use to glue these things back on.  There is a sort of contact cement =
looking stuff on the back of these pieces.  Front is woodgrain and back =
is a brass looking backing.  Someone know what to use?

JIM
jimmeeks@worldnet.att.net
1970 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

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<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3Dªffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 size=3D2>I finally located some OK =
replacements for the=20
burl woodgrain on the main dash.&nbsp; Problem is, the originals are =
missing and=20
I am not sure what to use to glue these things back on.&nbsp; There is a =
sort of=20
contact cement looking stuff on the back of these pieces.&nbsp; Front is =

woodgrain and back is a brass looking backing.&nbsp; Someone know what =
to=20
use?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 size=3D2>JIM</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:jimmeeks@worldnet.att.net">jimmeeks@worldnet.att.net</A></=
FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3Dª000000 size=3D2>1970 Cutlass Supreme=20
Convertible</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 11:14:51 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: On the road again... (finally!)

Well, my SX saga has finally reached its happy ending: I got the car
registered yesterday morning, and took it on its maiden voyage! Well, it
was only around the block, and only one thing fell off, but I'd call that a
success!

I bolted the fenderwells in yesterday afternoon, and that really tightened
up the front structure of the car. In the process, I cracked an A/C line,
and the 4 lbs of freon that I've been storing very carefully for the last
13 years (worth about $100 today, compared to $4 back then; nice
investment...) sprayed out :(   So it looks like it might be time to
convert to 134a... At least I know the system doesn't have any *other* leaks!

Gotta get the blower motor working; brand new motor, but the switch does
nothing. The blinker is very lazy on one side (overall slow blinking), and
very reluctant on the other (very quick blink, with a long pause in
between). I'm really hoping that's just the flashers itself...

It's still in that tentative-driver stage, though; it's been sitting for so
long as an obstacle,  that it's tough to get used to it as a car. I'm not
confident in taking it out for a long ride yet. Getting an alignment will
help (right now there are *no* alignment shims in there; it handles
amazingly well, though), and I'll need to change out the rear differential
fluid (it's original... :p ), which will make me feel better about driving it.

The '68 Toro motor in there now will have to be tuned up, I suspect; the
RV-grade shift kit in the TH400 seems to give it a nice kick between gears
(thought I heard a chirp on the gearchange). The silicone brake fluid seems
to have stopped seeping out at the banjo fitting on the caliper. The body
still looks like it's more suitable for parting than driving. Little by
little, though...

Now, the challenge will be to get it through the state inspection. Gotta
patch some trunk holes before I attempt that, though everything else is in
very good shape, mechanically-speaking.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 11:19:56 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Gear oil recommendatin for positraction differential

I was wondering about people's experiences with positraction differential
gear lubes. Where do you buy the positraction additive, a GM dealer only?
In addition, the factory recommendation is for 90W; would 80-90W be an
acceptable alternative.

Finally, rumor has it that the synthetic gear lube is superior (Jason L.,
you use this type, right?). Who makes it, and what grade do you run? I've
also heard that this lube makes the positraction additive unnecessary?

This is for my original-style 2.56 posi 12-bolt in the SX. I'm also
planning on simply using blue RTV for the rear cover; who is it (Joe P.?)
that has had good luck with this practice? This is assuming that the
original-style 12-bolt O-type cover gaskets are not available through the
regular parts stores.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 11:32:38 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Time for Tires for the SX

Now that she's running and registered, I'm feeling the need for a decent
set of tires for the SX. They'll need to be all-season capable, speed-rated
(with a 2.56 rear, better make that V-rated...) performance tires, 15"
60-series, that can mount on the 15"x7" Chevy Rally rims on the car (they
were from the Monte I parted, and free, so don't give me any backtalk, you
hear? ;). The ultimate plan is to get a set of 15"x8" rough-cast finish
American 5-spokes with the polished rim, but that's the long view (I
personally believe that particular rim is *the* most beautiful hot-rod rim
ever produced, but that's just my opinion...).

I need two recommendations: size and manufacturer. I'd like to keep them
the same size all-around (I'd get a bigger pair of sticky tires [275 or
295] mounted on their own rims for trips to the dragstrip and
cruise-nights) for everyday use, and was thinking something along the lines
of 245/60-15. One thing: the 225/75-15's on there now come close to rubbing
the right-front fender on turns, so I don't want to go too extreme. Would
235's be a wiser choice? Or should I go for the 255/60's? Mind you, these
are on a 15" rim.

I've got a set of 255/70-15" Dunlop GT Qualifiers on the Toro, and I'm
happy enough with them, and they produce a tire in the size I'm looking at,
but I'd like to get personal testimonies from others about other brands.

One other thing I should mention; the speed rating is pretty important to
me, and I know that it'll be tough to find an all-weather speed-rated tire.
That's why I'm asking you folks for recommendations.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 08:45:22 -0800
From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Subject: SMOG

Finals are nearing and I have chosen to do my reasearch essay on
Americas smog laws.   I would appreciate any help, info, statistics or
opinions you can give me.  Any web sites related to my topic would be
helpful.  The essay will include the who, what and why of the smog laws,
but I am coming up short on info.  The smog control devices in my essay
are limited to cars, no need to talk about factories here.
Prompts :
Do you feel that we are correctly eliminating smog by targeting cars?
Do you feel that the emissions control devices really work?
Are there other alternitives to control smog that are not being used
that could be more effective?
Are the amount of cars in the US really necessary?  why or why not?


Any other info, aspects, etc.  would really be appreciated!
Thanks
Brad
70 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 12:06:55 -0500
From: Mark Cornea <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: Re: Power Tour

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Ray wrote:

> Is anyone planning on participating in this years Power Tour.  The Olds
> ratio last year was rather low, but of course the "quality not quantity"
> idea could defend us.  If anyone is considering it, I highly recommend it.
> Just make sure your car is able to cruise at 100MPH for sustained periods
> of time through Nevada and other arid states.
>
> Ray in the desert
> 87 409 Cutlass




             Yes, I'm planning on going. I'd like to drive out to the first
     stop in Kansas, I'm guessing about 1200 miles for me one way. I picked
     up 2:56 gear specifically for this cruise.  According to "Bowling's"
     program at 80 mph I'll be turning 2598 rpm, that should be a nice speed
     and RPM.

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<HTML>
Ray wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>Is anyone planning on participating in this years
Power Tour.&nbsp; The Olds
<BR>ratio last year was rather low, but of course the "quality not quantity"
<BR>idea could defend us.&nbsp; If anyone is considering it, I highly recommend
it.
<BR>Just make sure your car is able to cruise at 100MPH for sustained periods
<BR>of time through Nevada and other arid states.

<P>Ray in the desert
<BR>87 409 Cutlass</BLOCKQUOTE>
&nbsp;
<BR>&nbsp;
<UL>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Yes, I'm planning on going.
I'd like to drive out to the first stop in Kansas, I'm guessing about 1200
miles for me one way. I picked up 2:56 gear specifically for this cruise.&nbsp;
According to "Bowling's" program at 80 mph I'll be turning 2598 rpm, that
should be a nice speed and RPM.</UL>
</HTML>

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       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
          Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 W30 stick ~ Red (of course)

                              <mailto:drdecal442@aol.com>
                              <mailto:mcornea@gw.ford.com>

            Visit <http://members.aol.com/drdecal442/mcr.html>

            OCAª 4903
           OPCª 14
       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

- --------------7A209B2C781CDFC3E5A0FF8D--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 97 11:13:06 -0500
From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Subject: Dec JWO - Pictures

If anyone cares about the future of the Oldsmobile hobby, just check out
what I did to my kid up in Lansing to make sure that he grows up w/ the
right attitude about Olds from the very beginning
He's in the December issue of "Journey with Olds" on page 15 with the bib
that says "Future Oldsmobile Owner" on it.  Not to mention, his name is
Elias and he was 3 months old at the Centennial

GET THOSE KIDS THINKING GOOD THOUGHTS ABOUT OLDSMOBILES EARLY!

 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - Newest Chapter of OCA
(W) brad.nicholson@ssa.gov   (H) brad442@erols.com
Personal Web Page - http://www.erols/com/brad442
OCC Web Page - http://www.erols.com/brad442/occ
OCA Web Page - http://www.erols.com/brad442/oca

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 13:31:05 -0500
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: Gear oil recommendatin for positraction differential

I got a diff gasket from the dealer a year ago for my 12 bolt rear.  6$.

> This is assuming that the
>original-style 12-bolt O-type cover gaskets are not available through the
>regular parts stores.

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 10:27:59 -0600 (CST)
From: Rick Kromeich <rickk@ecg.csg.mot.com>
Subject: Shipping a hood

I need to ship a hood this week.  Does anyone have any suggestions on a
carrier, how to box or crate it to prevent damage etc.  I need to know
your suggestions soon so please email me directly.

Ohh, BTW it is an oldsmobile hood.

Thanks in advance
- -Rick

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 09:52:50 -0600
From: Eric.Aksomitis@swp.com
Subject: RE:  Re: Power Tour

100mph CRUISING for a muscle car, I don't know, but I'd have to say this
would be more the place for my 72 98 than a Cutlass / 442.
(ALthough gunned off the line my 72 98 will squeal and fill the luscious
interior burning rubber on a good day)

EA
http://www.cs.uregina.ca/~aksomi/

>100MPH, really?  Strikes me as fairly ambitious for muscle cars geared
>generally for quarter mile bursts.  I know my 442 could not cruise at that
>speed for long.  Probably be turning around 4500RPM....

>>Just make sure your car is able to cruise at 100MPH for sustained periods
>>of time through Nevada and other arid states.

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 13:46:24 -0500
From: "Jason K. Adcock" <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Tires

Hi, again, Oldsmofolk.  Sorry for all the q's recently, but I'd like to
know if anyone here's put 235mm wide tires on a G-Body.  I have the 14x6"
Chrome SSIII wheels and would like to put on BFGoodrich Radial T/A's, size
235/60R14.  Has anyone tried this size before?  Will they fit comfortably?
I'll probably get them this weekend, so a quick response would be
appreciated, but certainly not necessary.  Thanks again for all the help.

Cheers/Jason
_____________________________

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 10:54:30 PST
From: "John Stolarski" <oldscs350@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 200r4 linkage ???????

>Ray wrote:
>>
>> You probably see them smiling because they're laughing at you.  The
ladies
>> I know think any kind of automotive enthusiasm is foolish.  Fools.
>> Women should not be allowed to own cars or have opinions about them.


Hoooo boy...do know what you've done? I hope Lisa the Olds goddess is
forgiving with that comment...



  John Stolarski
'86 Cutlass Supreme
 The "Black Mariah"


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 13:57:49 -0500
From: "DREW RACING" <drewracn@gte.net>
Subject: Re: Gear oil recommendation for posi-traction differential:

Redline 70W90NS (the NS stands for Non-Slip)
Fully synthetic rear end gear lube for the toughest duty.  This stuff
really helps the clutches grab harder saving wear and tear on them.  It can
(and did for me) make both tires spin in a "posi" that didn't spin both
tires everytime a burnout or hole shot was done with the standard lube.
The additive Redline put in the lube works wonders.

Runs $7.95 per quart from Summit Racing in Ohio.

Drew Walz
DREW RACING

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 13:10:36 EST
From: BradRoss79 <BradRoss79@aol.com>
Subject: Re: sounds

True,  most young kids don't care that much about old cars.
That is not true for me,  I have a 1971 Delta Royale (77,000 miles)
and a 1971 Delta Custom town sedan (57,290 miles) sitting in my parents
garage.
I love them both, and nothing beats the 455 rocket!
I drove the Delta Custom in the motorcade in Lansing, and I show both of my
cars during the summer.
     By the way, I am 18 years old

Brad Ross
Swartz Creek, MI
71 Delta Custom
71 Delta Royale
GO OLDS!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 97 10:47:01 PST8
From: hpnaepflin@CCGATE.HAC.COM
Subject: Re: valve addition

> Ah, bud, I don't think you can add up valve diameters to get effective flow
> area. Twice the area of a 1.4" valve is NOT the area of a 2.8" valve.

Actually you can.  The flow area for a valve is not the area of the valve 
itself
but rather the area of the gap formed when the valve is opened.

This area is pi x D x L    where L is the valve lift and D is Diameter.

So two valves of the same diameter opened by the same Lift have the same flow
area as one valve of twice the diameter.

Now actual flow is a pretty complicated phenomena dependent on factors other
than just area, but given a similar configuration, adding diameters is probably
a pretty good approach to first order.


When it comes to comparing port area, the pi x D^2/4 would be correct, so a 
port
of twice the diameter would have 4 times the flow area.

Assuming a port diameter which is say 85% of the valve diameter, what lift 
would
be required to give a valve area equal to the port area?

  pi x D x L = pi x (.85 x D)^2 /4

  L = .85^2 x D / 4

For 2.0 inch valves  >>>> L = .36 inches  (about the ballpark of a street cam
right?)


My admitted rambling point is that increasing port diameter, and proportionally
valve diameter, will require an increase in lift in order for the valve area to
keep up with the port area.

Hans

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 14:20:31 EST
From: RCKTPWR <RCKTPWR@aol.com>
Subject: Re: '67 Cutlass frame/transmission mount problem

In a message dated 97-12-10 10:14:37 EST, you write:

<<
 Don't know what motor or trans came in my CS originally--or even if it was a
 stick.
  >>
As you may allready know, you could get a 3 or 4 spd manual, or a 2spd auto
powerglide or the turbo 400.   Is the TH400 the same as a 67 400 auto trans??
You shouldnt have to re-drill, weld anything if it was stock.  I have 5 a-
bodies, 2 of which are parts cars. Feel free to ask about any 67 ???,  not an
expert, just experienced.
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 11:19:03 -0800
From: Jon Graham <jgraham@govsales.com>
Subject: 1993 W31 Achieva issues

I've got a '93 Achieva SCX with the H.O. Quad 4 that I am doing a head gasket 
on
at 77,000 miles.  The vehicle has been meticulously maintained by me since new,
so I'm wondering if this is a common problem with the Quad 4. I'm also looking
for any information on performance parts for the Quad 4, as I've got it apart
already.  Anything on intake/exhaust modifications would be good at this time.
The only current modifications are a chip from Superchips which helped the
low-end noticeably, and a K&N air filter.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 11:37:27 -0800
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Tires

I've got 235/60R15's on my '84 H/O, they fit just fine.  I'd recommend 7"
wheels, preferably 15x7's.

Jason K. Adcock wrote:

> Hi, again, Oldsmofolk.  Sorry for all the q's recently, but I'd like to
> know if anyone here's put 235mm wide tires on a G-Body.  I have the 14x6"
> Chrome SSIII wheels and would like to put on BFGoodrich Radial T/A's, size
> 235/60R14.  Has anyone tried this size before?  Will they fit comfortably?
> I'll probably get them this weekend, so a quick response would be
> appreciated, but certainly not necessary.  Thanks again for all the help.
>
> Cheers/Jason
> _____________________________
>
> Jason K. Adcock
> mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
> http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 14:41:29 EST
From: Boaz32 <Boaz32@aol.com>
Subject: .

Delete from mailing list

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 13:55:27 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@leadbelt.com
Subject: HEI & recurve question

I'm using a vacuum advance HEI on a small block engine with no functioning
emissions equip. The engine detonates at part-throttle acceleration  (not
from stop, just increasing speed) and at highway cruise speeds (probably
fairly lean conditions). In either case, I can usually stop the detonation
by stepping harder on the go pedal.

I'd like to eliminate this problem. Would you think it would be logical to
start with adjustable vaccum advance to reduce total advance and just leave
the springs,weights, etc,. alone?

TIA

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 14:36:16 -0500
From: "Paul L. Fikaris" <fikaris@en.com>
Subject: Observations From an Olds Fan (Long)

First, Thanks for the posting about the sale of "Setting the Pace" books
from Alpha One. I got right on the phone and ordered and it arrived less
than 24hrs. later. I didn't realize it was a hardcover book! Tons and tons
of high quality pics, very, very interesting.

I like the photos of stuff like the 10 millionth overall Olds and the 1
million Olds' produced in 1977. (wonder where these cars are today?)
Something that I thought was alarming was the graph with production totals
over the years. After years of high production including the million in
'77, it's shocking to see totals of the past few years barely eclipsing the
500,000 mark. Best part was the photo of a gorgeous red 1969 D88 ragtop!
Deltas rarely get the spotlight, so we in the minority must cheer when
thrown a bone!  Worst part (so far) was the introductory message from Bob
Stempel former GM chief and (in my mind) person most responsible for the
near demise of Oldsmobile and the General itself. Tanks fer nuttin', Noonan


Second, someone mentioned about stopping your car at a deserted rest stop
just to stop and stare at it, I can relate. My D88 is "hibernating" for the
Winter at a friend's house about 30 miles from my home. I occasionally go
over to watch Monday Night Football there (he's single, I'm not)  Welp
about 12:30 last Monday night I trudged out to the back garage through snow
and the muck, pop open the garage door and fumble for the light, pull back
the car cover to gaze at my prize. Then I think to myself, you must be
crazy to drive all the way over to stand in a cold garage with wet muddy
feet just to stare at something you've looked at a hundred times before.
Aside from the fact that I was talking (and answering) myself, I don't
think I'm the least bit nuts.

Third, when talking about music. I'm 34 and have always loved the the 50s
and 60s tunes (and the 70s stuff I grew up with)  but since my D88 only has
stock AM-jams, I find myself listening to "The Music Of Your Life"
(actually the music of my GRANPA's life), mainly stuff from the 40s & 50s
thru to Dino, Frankie, Sammy (waycool), and into the cheesy-listening hits
of the 70s, "Feelings," "You Light Up My Life," ad nauseum (heck, add
vomiting while you're at it) and I actually sorta like it. The way I figure
it, the person who purchased my car new was not a young person, and
more-n-likely listened to this kind of music, and not to rock-n-roll.
There's nothing like cruising topless on a warm summer evening at dusk
whilst listening to Tony Bennett croon about "The Good Life."

Late bulletin just handed me: upon further review of points two and three,
I've determined that I am nuts!

Paul L. Fikaris
69 Delta 88 Conv 455
fikaris@en.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 97 14:55:03 -0500
From: "padavano.joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Gear oil recommendatin for positraction differential

Doc Bob wrote:

This is for my original-style 2.56 posi 12-bolt in the SX. I'm also
planning on simply using blue RTV for the rear cover; who is it (Joe P.?)
that has had good luck with this practice? This is assuming that the
original-style 12-bolt O-type cover gaskets are not available through the
regular parts stores.

     Actually, no, it wasn't me.  I've had mixed results with the blue RTV,
     but I haven't tried it on the rear end cover before.  You may be
     remembering my comments about using it on the ends of the intake
     manifold in place of the rubber gaskets, which I've done very
     successfully.

     I _have_ been able to purchase Type O gaskets at the auto parts store,
     though the last time was a while ago.  In fact, I'm holding a brand new
     one still sealed in the Fel-Pro box as I type this (not an easy feat!
     ;-)  Try Fel-Pro part number RDS-55008, Rear Axle Hsg. Set.
     Interestingly enough, the box lists the application as:

     OLDSMOBILE V8 Eng. 330, 350, 400 W/"O" Type Axle 1966-68

     I found this surprising, as I bought two at the time (same part no)
     and used one on a 70 housing.  Interestingly enough, that particular
     housing came out of a 70 W-31 (I took it out myself, back in the
     mid-70s when you could actually find W-cars in wrecking yards!  I'm
     of course kicking myself now that I didn't get the engine.).  I'm
     assuming your SX has a 12 bolt cover.

     Just to make sure, I called my local auto parts store.  Fel-Pro
     still lists this gasket (the current catalog lists applications
     through 1970).  Interestingly enough, they list 55009 as used on 425
     and 455 engine applications!  I wasn't aware of a housing
     difference.  The store doesn't stock either, but has them in the
     warehouse.  Let me know if you want me to get you one.

     As for your tire question, I've got BFG 255/60-15s on my H/O on the
     factory rims with no probs.  I believe they make a V-rated (though it
     may be only H-rated) all season Comp T/A in this size.

     Good Luck

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 12:05:17 -0700
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: Re: SMOG (long)

>Do you feel that we are correctly eliminating smog by targeting cars?

My subjective understanding is that vehicles are a minor part and that
manufacturing and other commercial facilities are much bigger players in
the creation of smog.

Not sure if this is in place, but there has been much talk in recent years
of creating a system  ( a market really ) where each polluter is allowed to
produce a certain amount of polluntants per year or month. If they go below
that amount, they can sell their right to the difference to another
polluter who is producing over their permitted amount. If they go above
they have to buy the right to produce that much crud. The system is aimed
at creating incentives for good behavior and hard dollar costs for bad
behavior.

>Do you feel that the emissions control devices really work?

Tailpipe sniffers can demonstrate the difference among cars that are
emissions controlled and not. Note that there is an efficiency (mpg) cost
for emissions control, they may be cleaning the environment (good) but it
don't come for free.  We're using gasoline faster than we would otherwise.
OTOH, with the incentive emissions control created for more sophisticated
induction systems however, efficiency is arguably higher due to these
controls. I leave that for the economists among us to study.

>Are there other alternatives to control smog that are not being used
>that could be more effective?

See above.

>Are the amount of cars in the US really necessary?  why or why not?

Some view cars as the ultimate expression of American freedom -we can go
where we want, when we want, without asking anybody. Nowhere else in the
world can you go as far without asking some governmental official whether
you can enter their borders. As an expression of that which makes us a
nation, arguable that they may be really necessary. There's something in
our culture which just makes us want to drive ourselves. Take a good look
at the cities which developed after WWII when we had the resources ($$) to
do what we want -- we built LA specifically to accomodate personal
vehicles.

>Any other info, aspects, etc.  would really be appreciated!

A related regulatory topic would be road pricing to reduce road congestion
during peak hours. If it cost you $25 to commute to work in your car and
you could get there for $3 on the bus, which would you pick? They're trying
this in foreign countries and the technology exists here too, but hasn't
been picked up yet in part because it's seen as too intrusive (which I
happen to think it is).

What technology you ask? Magnetic readers which read where you go and bill
you accordingly. My uncle in Olso has a magnetic gizmo on the inside of his
windshield. When he uses certain roads at certain times, he knows he's
paying. His car is automatically debited by passing by a magnetic reader
located at points on the road. When his gizmo runs out of credits he has to
buy a new one.

Hope this is interesting to you all. I'm have mixed feelinsg on these
topics, but wanted to offer some info to fight all this "my car vs. your
car" crap lately.

I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on smog regulation vs.
intrusiveness and on road pricing in general.

all the best for the holiday season,
cf

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 16:33:42 -0500
From: "Mike Coccagna" <mcoccagn@envirosense.com>
Subject: re:  How to kill a Quad4

Dave,

There are many different flavors of the Quad4, from the anemic 150hp low
output, to the W-41 Quad4, which put out 190 hp (the highest
horsepower/cubic inch  production engine on the market when introduced).  I
agree the L.O. Quad4 could be matched by your 307 D88, especially if it were
in a Grand Prix.

I have driven several different Quad4s, along with some nice v8s (I like
those LT1's too....).  The Quad4 has its place, a highly efficient "pocket
rocket", getting 30-35 mpg while pushing out the 190 hp.  From my
experiences, the Quad4 is VERY sensitive to the oil and its condition in
respect to the performance, which may have given you the anemic feeling.

Mike
'91 Quad442
'93 W-41 SCX

- -----------
On  Tue, 09 Dec 1997  at 22:46 Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net> wrote:

It just seems ironic that yesterday I should mention that I have little
experience working on a Quad 4...well, today I furthered my education.
[snip of a horror story - for any engine....]

I guess the Quad 4 is impressive for a four-banger, but I'll tell ya,
this engine was a piece of junk, largely due to the lack of maintenance.
I had the opportunity to go for a short test drive, and it didn't seem
that quick...it seemed like my 307 D88 could keep up.  Are there two
different versions of the Quad 4?  Or could this just be the result of a
poorly maintained engine?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 17:33:25 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Observations From an Olds Fan (Long)

On Wed, 10 Dec 1997, Paul L. Fikaris wrote:
> I like the photos of stuff like the 10 millionth overall Olds and the 1
> million Olds' produced in 1977. (wonder where these cars are today?)

The 1 millionth '77 Olds (a red Cutlass) shown in the book was on display
at the Lansing Center in August. Olds still owns it. It looked like it
had actually been used a little bit, since it wasn't quite perfect as I
recall.

BTW, I noticed while flipping thru the book the other day an interesting
sidelight. On page 391 is a picture of a '77 Delta 88 coupe. I noticed
that it has the roofline of either a LeSabre or Bonneville though! The
triangular rear quarter window instead of the more vertical rectangular
type they used in production. Must have been a fairly late design change
if prototypes were running around with the other roofline. Wonder where
*that* car is now?

> There's nothing like cruising topless on a warm summer evening at dusk
> whilst listening to Tony Bennett croon about "The Good Life."

When I had my convertible I used to appreciate those kind of tunes on
those occasions too. Since we had a 50's/60's station, my favorite tended
to be "Runaround Sue" by Dion....

> Late bulletin just handed me: upon further review of points two and three,
> I've determined that I am nuts!

A common affliction among us, I'm afraid... ;-)

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 16:20:49 EST
From: DR OLDS350 <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: 70 Burl Wood Grain (where did it all go?)

Olds List Members:

Do any of you out there have wood grain for a 1970 Cutlass that fits over the
glove box door and also the gauge cluster. Seams that there is a big shortage
of this stuff, and it seams like all of the part suppliers have it on back
order. If you have a glovebox door with the woodgrain I would be interested in
it.

Jim

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 16:32:37 -0600
From: Patrick Derkacz <patrickd@wwnet.com>
Subject: Re: 69 bucket seats

I am looking for a set of black bucket seats for my 69 442 conv.  E-mail
me with info. if anyone has a set they would sell.

patrickd@wwnet.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 17:48:16 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 1970 Cutlass Woodgrain

A problem with this address, now fixed; forwarding...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:"James Meeks" <jimmeeks@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: 1970 Cutlass

I finally located some OK replacements for the burl woodgrain on the =
main dash.  Problem is, the originals are missing and I am not sure what =
to use to glue these things back on.  There is a sort of contact cement =
looking stuff on the back of these pieces.  Front is woodgrain and back =
is a brass looking backing.  Someone know what to use?

JIM
jimmeeks@worldnet.att.net
1970 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 15:57:17 -0600
From: Shang <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Re: HEI & recurve question

hitson@leadbelt.com wrote:
>
> I'm using a vacuum advance HEI on a small block engine with no functioning
> emissions equip. The engine detonates at part-throttle acceleration  (not
> from stop, just increasing speed) and at highway cruise speeds (probably
> fairly lean conditions). In either case, I can usually stop the detonation
> by stepping harder on the go pedal.
>
> I'd like to eliminate this problem. Would you think it would be logical to
> start with adjustable vaccum advance to reduce total advance and just leave
> the springs,weights, etc,. alone?
>
> TIA
>
> roger hitson


Does your car have power brakes? I experienced this EXACT same condition
in my car and came to find out that the brake booster was leaking
causing and extreme lean condition. As soon as I replaced this booster
(fixed the vacuum leak) I had no more problems with the pinging. I even
got to run a little more timing than previously.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 14:49:04 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: The Sounds of Being Young(er)

> >Let's get some real sounds rolling.  Find a straight stretch of 8 lane
> >road, the aforementioned 64 442, 64 GTO, 64 1/2 Mustang, one of the
> >Chrysler Corp hi-pos.....

That would be sweet...  It was neat enough sitting at the end of our
1/4, it only had room for two at a time...

> He and his buddies used to go over to Las Vegas , swapping out their
> low(er) gear rear ends for highway gear rearends (when they broke one at a
> drag race they swapped out another 8 3/4"  out of a parked car in the
> parking lot to get them home...).

Which I bet came as a ~real~ suprise to the owner after that!  ;)  One
way to prevent driving home drunk...

- --
               Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
        Sidney Montana

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 16:52:26 -0500
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: diff codes (they DO exist)

dilligaf@tl.infi.net wrote:
>
> Thanks for the info.  I had the feeling it had something to do with
> being a H/O.

Sorry, forgot to mention that the first time.  The assembly manual is
where it's at for finding options and how they are installed.  The
service manual, while excellent, lacks some specific information.
Together, they are worth their weight in gold when restoring/adding
factory stuff.

- --
Mike Rothe
69 H/O
71 442 HT
85 442 T-top
76 GMC 1/2 ton, 502 c.i.

http://pages.prodigy.net/mrothe/rocket.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 17:04:14 -0500
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: HEI & recurve question

No, I think the correct way to set this is to first disable the vacumn
advance.  Then use the combination of lightest weights and initial advance that
gives you maximum possible advance without pinging through several full
throttle runs.  Once that's set, hook up the vacumn and adjust it until you get
no pinging at part throttle cruise.

>I'm using a vacuum advance HEI on a small block engine with no functioning
>emissions equip. The engine detonates at part-throttle acceleration  (not
>from stop, just increasing speed) and at highway cruise speeds (probably
>fairly lean conditions). In either case, I can usually stop the detonation
>by stepping harder on the go pedal.

>I'd like to eliminate this problem. Would you think it would be logical to
>start with adjustable vaccum advance to reduce total advance and just leave
>the springs,weights, etc,. alone?

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 17:15:38 -0500
From: Mike Rothe <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: H$lp!

John Pajak wrote:
>
>      H$lp! My TPS needs replacing (86 307). How difficult is it? I'm
> not afraid of tearing into a 'regular' Qjet but this electronic one
> has me concerned! Any special tools required?
>
Maybe some torx screwdrivers.  Take the MC solenoid and TPS connection
off, and pop the top on that bad dad similar to a regular Q-jet.  The
TPS can then be pulled out of it's resting place (watch out for the TPS
spring [not big, just remember it's there, usually won't cause problems]
and TPS actuating rod.  The little rod could slip out, depending on the
rod seal through the carb top.) and replaced without much trouble.  Make
sure you don't goof around with the TPS limit tang, or you will have
problems.  When placing the lid back on, a small screwdriver used to
position the TPS tang over the TPS switch will usually do the trick in
easing installation.  Just be careful, and you'll see it through with no
problems.  TPS voltage at harness (disconnected from TPS switch) should
be 4-5 volts with key on, between top (A) and bottom (C) terminals.  If
you have further questions, please e-mail me privately, and I'll send
you some info from the service manual.
- --
Mike Rothe
69 H/O
71 442 HT
85 442 T-top
76 GMC 1/2 ton, 502 c.i.

http://pages.prodigy.net/mrothe/rocket.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 16:25:48 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@leadbelt.com
Subject: Re: HEI & recurve question

>
>Does your car have power brakes?

Yes

I experienced this EXACT same condition
>in my car and came to find out that the brake booster was leaking
>causing and extreme lean condition. <snipped>

Thank you :)

I have suspected some kind of vacuum leak in my power brakes for some time
but had never associated it in any way with other problems. The reason I had
suspected brake vacuum problems (the brakes work really well) is a
persistent hissing sound when pedal pressure applied and some degree of
pedal fade. I'll follow  that trail some more.

roger

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 16:45:42 -0600
From: "Wayne L. Dake" <wldake@execpc.com>
Subject: Merry Christmas All

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.


------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª1001
*********************************
