
oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, January 8 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1048



Re: Sandblasting
Body Mounts
Body Mounts
Re: no spark?
D-Heads on 66 400
Re: 72 Cutlass Supreme For Sale
Re: 87 cutlass, odd problem... and 4-4-2 progress
Re: Oh yes still reading {laughing}MUD FIGHTS
Re: '68 Safety Equipment
Re: A-Body Disk Brakes
Re: A-Body Disk Brakes
Re: Four-Point Seat Belts
Re: Non-Olds Brakes Question
Re: A-Body Disk Brakes
Re[2]: Oh yes still reading {laughing}MUD FIGHTS
Road conditions needed
degreasing; WAS: bob's 350 ID
Re: A-Body Disk Brakes
Re: Road conditions needed
Show/Info Books
holley installation question
Re: '68 Safety Equipment
1940 Olds 90 Series parts (fwd)
Pulling My Leg
Re: Pulling My Leg
belt question
Re: Sandblasting
Comfortron Heater blues??
Re: belt question
Re: Non-Olds Brakes Question
Re: Show/Info Books
Re: 1966 Cutlass
Re: I need stuff
Things I need for my two old Old's. :)
Updated Web Page
front fender patch panels?
head prices???
Re: Show/Info Books
Re: manufacturer of panels
Re: Pulling My Leg
She Still Has Not Started! ('cause I'm lazy)
Re: Dick Miller Racing Event
Subscription
68 Cultass "S" heater?
Re: A-Body Disk Brakes
Re: Four-Point Seat Belts
Re: A-Body Disk Brakes
Re: manufacturer of panels
Re: front fender patch panels?
Re: manufacturer of panels
Re: She Still Has Not Started! ('cause I'm lazy)
Re: Show/Info Books
Re: Oh yes still reading {laughing}MUD FIGHTS
Re: She Still Has Not Started! ('cause I'm lazy)
Re: Body Mounts
Re: Show/Info Books
NEW CUTLASS BODY STYLE
Motor City Rockets contact
unsubscribe oldsmobile
Re: head prices???
Re: head prices???

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 09:28:49 -0800
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Sandblasting

Just thought that maybe I could save you a few bucks.  I work for the company that
makes Playsand.  It's one of our biggest money makers because it's exactly the
same sand that goes into our generic sand bags, we can just charge more because of
the label.  So at least in my neck of the woods, get the regular sand, same stuff,
comes from the same bin, just different bags.

SRDIET wrote:

>   Beware, just don't fill up the blaster with playsand and start blasting away
> @ your sheet metal.  The heat generated during the blasting process will warp

- --
Tom Lentz, tlentz@ior.com                        '84 Hurst/Olds #2118
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz                       '78 Cutlass Supreme
Network Admin, CPM Corp, Spokane, WA.            '78 Chev 1/2ton (Olds 350)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 09:28:25 PST
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Body Mounts

OK gang, I've gotta a question on how to do something I've NEVER seen 
done:

My car needs the body mounts replaced. Has anyone on the list put in new 
rubber and hardware WITHOUT removing the body?! I'd like to replace the 
mounts, but am not in a position to remove the body (nor do I want to).

Thanks,

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 09:28:27 PST
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Body Mounts

OK gang, I've gotta a question on how to do something I've NEVER seen 
done:

My car needs the body mounts replaced. Has anyone on the list put in new 
rubber and hardware WITHOUT removing the body?! I'd like to replace the 
mounts, but am not in a position to remove the body (nor do I want to).

Thanks,

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 12:41:17 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: no spark?

- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris Brown Witt <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; me from
myself <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Date: Wednesday, January 07, 1998 11:58 PM
Subject: no spark?


<snip
>Or, you got a really, really big electron stuck in there!
<snip>
>--
>Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca
[Lansing, MI]
>*the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
>         >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<

Yea Chris, I've been worried about those fat electrons for awhile now.
That's it!!! They're on a diet from today. No more 12 volts; 9'll have
to do until they slim down. :-).

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S convertible
OCA# 29770
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 12:41:32 -0500
From: mike.blankenship@medaphis.com
Subject: D-Heads on 66 400

Anyone ever run a 66-67 short stroke 400 with D or F heads on it.  I 
wonder if there would much of a gain over the B heads.

Mike Blankenship
66 442
70 442 
70 442 W-30
71 442 Convt
95 Corvette 6 speed

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 12:53:55 EST
From: CRuper1 <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass Supreme For Sale

In a message dated 98-01-07 17:05:05 EST, you write:

<< 
 In a message dated 98-01-07 13:58:05 EST, you write:
 
 << I ran across a 72 Cutlass Supreme for sale today. I can't afford to buy
  it, but if anyone is interested, e-mail me privately and I will get more
  information on it. >>
 
 geez, i ran across a '70-'72 cutlass a few weeks ago in the backyard of my
 brother in law's house.  his mother somehow got it back there when the
company
 she works for repo'd it and didnt have enough room to store it.  so its been
 sitting back there for aobut 2 years now.  they drove it in and it looks
 pretty darn good!!  still has the rally rims on it and tires.  its yellow
with
 a black vynle top.  350 engine, also.  i think she would take $100 for that
 car!!  so im thinkin maybe ill just give it to her.  
  >>

Doesn't sound too bad, for that price I'd go down there and pick it up myself.
It'd be hard to beat for even a couple hundred bucks if it drives, and is in
decent shape.  Say..., you wana make some money here... <grin>....

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 13:34:47 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: 87 cutlass, odd problem... and 4-4-2 progress

He's right, I have had to change these myself. Nice thing is there 
out in the open anyway, unfortunatly, buick builds the pump kinda 
directly into the timing chain cover, you can get a High Volume 
Rebuild kit from Kanter and Brothers for under $50.00, its relativly 
simple to do, but, I will give you fair warning now, its alot easier 
to do if you take the timing chain cover off. Hope this helps.


> Sounds like you've got problems.  The Buick 231 is notorious for low oil 
> pressure at low RPM's GM actually recommended installing a high volume 
> high pressure oil pump to correct the problem.  I would hook up a 
> mechanical oil pressure guage to verify actual oil pressure.
> 
> Aaron


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 15:09:50 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Oh yes still reading {laughing}MUD FIGHTS

RC Hellebuyck wrote:
> 
> In case anyone was curious, I'm still here, {laughing and shaking my
> head}!  Haven't got to read any e-mail for a few days since I've been
> busy at work.  (Although it seems like I haven't missed much!)  My God
> another mud fight!

RC, this was the first list I joined after getting on the Net.  From
time to time I thought the mud slinging,  grouching, etc was a bit
tacky.  THEN I joined the Mazda RX7 group to try to get info on how to
fix a RX7 I've way too long with way too much money in it.  (Long story,
almost as long as the 69 S conv that was stolen from me several years
ago that I recovered.)  Thought I would fix it an drive it as a daily
beater to try to recover some of the money I stuck into this money pit.
(Don't laugh too hard folks, I'm sure we've all gotten ourselves into
situations where no matter what we do we can't win.)  To give the
Readers' Digest version, that list throws more mud in a day that this
group does in a month, and of a more personal nature.  When I get the 7
moving, I'm going to stay in contact with 4 or 5 people I've met on
there and get off it.  Just not worth it.  It did make me realize what a
group of ladies and gentlemen we have on the Olds list.  Just makes you
appreciate your homies more I guess.  HUM, If I can't get this stupid
rotary engine turning, I wonder how a RX7 would run with a built Olds in
it.  Don't know if it would fit, but I have had a few people want to buy
the body over the years to supposedly stick a 350 in it.  Wonder how
good that would run?  Interesting thought as I will probably have an
extra 350 block in a couple months.....

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 98 15:12:32 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: '68 Safety Equipment

Greg Beaulieu wrote:

Did'ya know... that these belts actually were not required until Jan. 1, 
1968? My '68, being an early (Sept./67) production car, does not have 
shoulder belts.
     
     Greg,
     
     Don't you have a convertible?  I always thought the shoulder belt 
     requirement for converts was later.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30
     
     

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 15:15:26 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: A-Body Disk Brakes

tgstoner@umich.edu wrote:
> 
> I wrote:
> 
> > I believe that front disk brakes also became standard on all of the '68
> > A-bodied Oldsmobiles, except possibly for the budget-priced F-85.
> 
> To which Greg Beaulieu   <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca> replied:
> 
> > Nope. I don't think they became standard until '72 or so. Both my '68 and
> > my pal Don's '68 W-30 have front drums (ugh).


As I remember my 69 S conv didn't stop too well back when I was driving
it all the time.  It would run great but had a terrible stopping
distance.  This I have always attributed to drum brakes front and rear.
I don't think it had disc brakes, so I don't think they were standard in
69 on the S models.  I'll have to double check this though.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 12:37:57 -0800
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: A-Body Disk Brakes

Ok I got a question.

Could I replace the caliper (multi-piston) with a single piston type
and still use the same rotor for a 1968 disk brake setup?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 98 15:56:53 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Four-Point Seat Belts

Has anyone here installed a four-point racing harness in a Cutlass?

     Yes.  I used Simpson belts.  The lap belt came with two eye bolts 
     which conveniently threaded right into the factory seatbelt bolt 
     holes in the floor pan.  The shoulder belt is actually a "Y" shaped 
     affair - the bottom leg of the Y reached all the way to the floor.  
     Be advised, however, that simply drilling a hole in the floor will 
     not provide a proper structural attachment for the belt.  One option 
     is to scavenge the lap belt reinforcements from another car and spot 
     weld them in place at the shoulder belt attach points.  These are 
     thick oval-shaped pieces of plate which are spot welded to the 
     underside of the transmission tunnel and under the rear seat.

 I don't trust the original belts and the crossover shoulder belt would 
cut my head off in a wreck.

     Unless you're about four feet tall, I think this fear is unfounded.  
     To be honest, most four point belts are designed to attach to a roll 
     bar cross brace.  I'd almost think that the factory engineered and 
     tested shoulder belt would be a better bet.
     
     (Reminds me of the people who refuse to wear belts because they fear 
     being trapped when the car catches on fire.  Never mind that only 
     about one half of one percent of all auto accidents involve 
     fires...)


     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 98 15:43:50 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds Brakes Question

The Chilton manual calls for a special tool which is used to rotate the 
piston clockwise until firmly seated.  I picked up the tool for him at a 
local auto parts store but he is still having a very difficult time of it. 
They barely move inward.
     
Has anyone heard of such a thing?  The salesman at parts store says many 
new GM and Ford products are going to this system.
     
     I had the same problem on my wife's 92 Regal.  It took a lot of 
     turning of the tool while pushing in on the piston to finally get them 
     to retract.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30
     

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 98 16:02:11 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re: A-Body Disk Brakes

     Sorry, but disk brakes were an option (not standard) through at least 
     1971.  The 71 Cutlass that I owned came with drums.
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30
     

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 98 16:07:20 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Re[2]: Oh yes still reading {laughing}MUD FIGHTS

RC Hellebuyck wrote:
..HUM, If I can't get this stupid rotary engine turning, I wonder how a 
RX7 would run with a built Olds in it.  Don't know if it would fit, but 
I have had a few people want to buy the body over the years to 
supposedly stick a 350 in it.  Wonder how good that would run?  
Interesting thought as I will probably have an extra 350 block in a 
couple months.....
     
     Actually, I've always thought the early RX7 body would be a good home 
     for a BOP aluminum 215, taken out to 5.0 litres with a sleeve kit and 
     a stroker crank...
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 98 16:11:18 -0500
From: "Padavano.Joe" <padavano.joe@Orbital.COM>
Subject: Road conditions needed

     I'm planning to drive from the Washington DC area to Huntsville, AL 
     and back this weekend to pick up that 70 Cutlass body that Bill Culp 
     found.  I was wondering if any list members along the way have any 
     info on road conditions and weather reports for the weekend.  I'll be 
     driving down I-81 through VA and TN, then I-75 to Chattanooga.
     
     Thanks
     
     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com
     
     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 15:23:26 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: degreasing; WAS: bob's 350 ID

Lot's of good suggestions! I've found soaking and repeated applications of
degreaser works wonders. The more time the better, as long as it stays wet. Even
on the toughest, thickest goo (eg timing chain shelf). And BTW, Harbor Freight
(www.harborfreight.com) has a pressure washer attachment for your compressor for
around $16. It won't develop 1000 or more PSI, but a lot more than a garden
hose, so it should be able to blast off some built up goo. I ordered one, I'll
know how it works come spring.
- -- 
David Brown              Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com      OR     http://www.en.com/users/thall
    http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
  http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/zip/oldsfaq4.zip

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 13:15:56 PST
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: A-Body Disk Brakes

Chris,

Although there were different rotors used form the factory, all 67-72 GM 
A Bodies use the same replacement rotor (.965 inch discard if memory 
serves). The pads on a 68, like the calipers, differ from the 69-72 
ones. The rotor is not your problem, I believe the calipers are. I don't 
think the 69-72 calipers will correctly bolt to a 1968 car.

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S

>Ok I got a question.
>
>Could I replace the caliper (multi-piston) with a single piston type
>and still use the same rotor for a 1968 disk brake setup?
>
>Chris Sparks
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 15:22:55 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Road conditions needed

Joe,

The road conditions in this area are just fine.  The rain didn't do anything
that I know of.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible


>
>     I'm planning to drive from the Washington DC area to Huntsville, AL
>     and back this weekend to pick up that 70 Cutlass body that Bill Culp
>     found.  I was wondering if any list members along the way have any
>     info on road conditions and weather reports for the weekend.  I'll be
>     driving down I-81 through VA and TN, then I-75 to Chattanooga.
>
>     Thanks
>
>     Joe Padavano
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 15:56:09 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Show/Info Books

Question,

does anyone on the list think there might be a market ($35 range) for an
info 3 ring binder, customized for your car, with info like production
numbers, options, ads, restoration photos, etc... all laid out in magazine
format with typeset pages & sleeves for anything else the owner happens to
find.

I've done 2 so far for my personal cars...70 Firebird & my 68 442 Conv. I
use them as quick reference for junkyard/swapmeets & also as an info book
placed on the fan cowl at local shows. People usually ask...Dude, where'd
you get the cool book?

I've got unbelieveable equipment at my disposal to create custom graphics
including photos or whatever!

I'm trying to decide if it would be worth my time to do it for somebody
else.

Besides with the web...the auto info is readily available so research
wouldn't be tough.

Anybody interested?

Let me know!

Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 13:57:30 -0800
From: Erik <erikreb@netbridge.net>
Subject: holley installation question

Hi,

I successfully got my Intake Manifold back on.  I have hooked everything
back up except for my holley 4-barrell carb.  Am I supposed to torque
the nuts down on my carb?   I have the Edelbrock Performer on my 350. 
Thanks,

Erik B.
'72 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 18:25:29 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: '68 Safety Equipment

On Thu, 8 Jan 1998, Padavano.Joe wrote:
>      Don't you have a convertible?  I always thought the shoulder belt 
>      requirement for converts was later.

Nope, not any more. You're thinking of my '64 Skylark convertible which I 
sold in May (and which no one has seen since... not sure if that's good 
or bad). The Cutlass is a Holiday coupe... see it at www.442.com 
(shameless plug).

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 18:26:49 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: 1940 Olds 90 Series parts (fwd)

Received this personally... if anyone can help, please reply to 
cbn0989@aol.com directly. Thanks!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 14:53:28 EST
From: Cbn0989 <Cbn0989@aol.com>
Subject: 1940 Olds 90 Series parts

Dear Greg,
     Request your assistance in locating a 1940 Olds parts I'm in a need of a
grille for this car.  Would like to find place to buy parts for this cars,
weather strips, etc, but really in a need for a grille.  Please email me at
edcoffey@hotmail.com.  Thanks for your help.

                                                               Thanks 

                                                                Eddie Coffey
                                                                2226 Franklin
Drive
                                                                Jefferson
City, TN  37760
                                                                 423-475-9200

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 14:27:20 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Pulling My Leg

     I remember around the early 80s I saw a 68 Cutlass with a 69
front clip. The owner claimed it was a 68 1/2.....says the factory ran
out of 68 front ends so they used 69 parts! I didn't quite believe it,
though the car looked unmolested. Then, sometime later I saw another
68/69 hybrid! Yep, same story...."it's a 68 1/2...blah blah blah yada
yada yada"
     Seems like a good story to cover up some "Wrench Engineering"

At least they didn't say "It's gotta four-fourty-two in it" :)

===
John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

65 Delta 88 2dr    70 Cutlass S 2dr       72 Cutlass conv   
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31       72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr   70 442 W30 conv        72 442 W30 conv 
70 Cutlass S 2dr   71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 18:44:59 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Pulling My Leg

That reminds me of the '69 I saw at a show last year... with a '70-'72 
dashboard in it! I didn't ask why...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 14:47:37 -0800
From: Erik <erikreb@netbridge.net>
Subject: belt question

Hello,

I am in the midst of reassembling everything after doing my Intake
Manifold.  I have an question.  It deals with the belt that comes off
the fan  pulley an onto the alternator.  Is it supposed to go on those
two pulleys alone, or is it supposed to be on the pulley right below the
power steering pump also?

When I have it just on the first two, it rubs against the power str.
pulley, and when I have it connected to that pulley as well, it looks
all crooked.  
Thanks for everybodys help

Erik B.
'72 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 16:18:39 -0700
From: Robert A Sanders <rsanders@holly.colostate.edu>
Subject: Re: Sandblasting

Hi Brian,
Yes, I'm interested in how to build a sandblasting cabinet. Please send me the
instructions to my e-mail.
Thanks a lot,
Bob

Kerr, Brian (R) wrote:

> This reply is for Hans, but I thought that some of the rest may be
> interested also
>
> Hans:
> There are various types of blasters, but they can be split into two types,
> siphon type and pressure pot. For serious work siphon blasters are IMHO,
> 'mickey mouse setups' compared to pressure pot blasters. They are fine for
> cleaning really small parts, or cleaning up small rust spots like chips or
> scratches on by panels during body work, but for cleaning off larger areas
> or heavy rust, the pressure pot is the way to go.
>
> I built a pressure pot sand blaster out of a propane tank, and it can be run
> at varying degrees of efficiency depending on the nozzle selection or
> compressor output as follows:
>
> 3/32" nozzle with 5hp single stage 10 cfm compressor gets approx 2 minutes
> of blasting with sand, but with an 5 hp two stage18 CFM compressor it will
> run steady at 115 psi until the sand runs out. With a 1/8" nozzle the 18 cfm
>  compressor will runs steady, but only at about 75 psi. 95-100 psi seems to
> be the minimum for good efficiency. Too low a pressure and you will use an
> ungodly amount of sand.
>
> My sand blaster cost me $160 CDN to build, and I copied a commercial unit,
> using exactly the same components as them for everything except the tank and
> guage, and thier price was around $350.
>
> Siphon blasters have a place however, I will be buying a siphon blasting gun
> to use in my blasting cabinet that I am going to build. The purpose for this
> is to be able to reuse expensive media like plastic or glass beads for doing
> small parts. So what if the siphon blaster takes longer to do the piece, I'm
> re-using, not wasting the media.
>
> For really delicate parts, I have used feed grade baking soda from a feed
> store, with excellent results but the area outside the shop looked like a
> snow storm hit in August!
>
> If you want  instructions and plans on how to build one of these with a
> propane tank using a die grinder and electric drill a metal hole saw, send
> me your adress and I'll mail it.
>
> Brian Kerr
> 69 Cutlass conv
>
> >I'd like to do a little sandblasting to fix a some rust in the trunklid lip
> and
> >lower fenders on my 70 Cutlass and other small jobs in the future.
> >Which Sandblaster should I get and where?
> >How big a compressor will I need?
> >Which medium would be best for this type of job?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 17:16:19 -0600
From: Eric & Rosi & Jonathon <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Comfortron Heater blues??

So, here I am, enjoying my 72 Olds 98 (My first pre-75 Olds ever), and I
get to winter, -30 Celcius, and I wanna put this heater to work, and of
course, my car wants to do a lot of the decision making for me (Sorry
guys, 1972 American technology just doesn't cut it for accurately
controling car temperatures..)

So, I've developed a few questions I'd like to throw out:::

1)  When I place the 'adjuster' on AUTO-HI, should not the fan BLOW ON
HIGH REGARDLESS?

2)  I see above the glovebox what looks like a thermostat-air entry,
currently the reaction-time for the thermostat is way too slow (works on
long trips not too bad, but no good for short trips)..  Can I increase
the airflow through this to make it more timely??

3)  Currently to force the fan to run, I have to leave it on defrost... 
If I ran my own switch to feed the fan power, and moved the selector
between  bi-level , auto and defrost, would I get heat, or just a fan
blowing air into a bunch of closed-off vents??

4)  Has anyone ever made any relatively easy mods to this heater to make
it work better, the Heat is good but the lack-of-me-controlling the heat
just doesn't work!

ANY/ALL Comments Please...



Eric

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 17:24:27 -0600
From: Eric & Rosi & Jonathon <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: belt question

Well, that depends, if the alternator and power-steering are on the
same-side, then the belt runs on both the power-steering and
alternator.  Is this the original set-up, becuae you can get any
combination of stuff put on afterwards.  My thoughts on the matter:  If
you can't verify it's the stock brackets, use spacers if you have to to
run each belt straight and tight, with adequate belts going to each
device, and disregard any concerns about stock-ness..  I've installed
various combination of air and non-air brackets, all with new belts
spaced to run straight and they worked fine, I mean they are just
belts..

EA

Erik wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I am in the midst of reassembling everything after doing my Intake
> Manifold.  I have an question.  It deals with the belt that comes off
> the fan  pulley an onto the alternator.  Is it supposed to go on those
> two pulleys alone, or is it supposed to be on the pulley right below the
> power steering pump also?
> 
> When I have it just on the first two, it rubs against the power str.
> pulley, and when I have it connected to that pulley as well, it looks
> all crooked.
> Thanks for everybodys help
> 
> Erik B.
> '72 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 18:25:40 -0500
From: Dave Ward <ward@ptbo.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds Brakes Question

John Gill wrote:

> My father is changing the brake pads on his '94 Merc*ry Sable.  The car has
> 4 wheel disks with anti-lock.  The rear calipers are peculiar because the
> pistons will not recess back into the caliper assembly like we're
> accustomed to.  I've always used a c-clamp to force it back in but we broke
> a clamp trying to do this to his.  No, the calipers are not "frozen" - the
> car has only 35,000 miles and I doubt that both rears would be frozen.
> They look almost new and when the brake is applied, they move freely.

Hmmm...I can't say I've ever done brakes on a Sable, but I've done a few
Luminas, which has the comparable 4 wheel disc ABS system.  With the
Lumina, the ABS system had to be discharged before taking it apart...the
pressure in there is something serious.

With the engine off, pump the brake 30-40 times, and this should help
discharge the system.  Are the front brakes back together?  Reassemble
all four brakes (pain in the *ss, yes...) and try pumping the brakes
30-40 times with the engine off.  Take everything apart again, and try
recessing the rear pistons again.  If it *still* won't work, do it the
other way (set on fire, claim insurance) just open up the bleeder
screw.  Sure, you may be into bleeding the system afterwards, but it'll
make life somewhat easier...

I'm not sure about the Sable, but with the Lumina, you really had to
plaster on the anti-squeal silicone if you wanted anything close to a
quiet stop....I've seen this a few times on GM's FWD four-wheel disc ABS
systems...  

- ------------------------------------------
S. Dave Ward  (mailto:ward@ptbo.igs.net)

'78 Delta 88 Royale (350 4bbl.)
'85 Delta 88 R.B.   (307 4bbl.)
'91 GMC Sierra 4x4  (305 TBI)

(Ennismore, Ontario, CANADA)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 17:24:36 -0600
From: "Samuel E. Johnson, Jr" <cutlass403@ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: Show/Info Books

I think that's a great idea! I've got a lot of graphic software at my disposal
too. I have photoshop and Coreldraw 7, along with Quark xpress and Pagemakere.
If you need help I've got a few connections.

Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com wrote:

> Question,
>
> does anyone on the list think there might be a market ($35 range) for an
> info 3 ring binder, customized for your car, with info like production
> numbers, options, ads, restoration photos, etc... all laid out in magazine
> format with typeset pages & sleeves for anything else the owner happens to
> find.
>
> I've done 2 so far for my personal cars...70 Firebird & my 68 442 Conv. I
> use them as quick reference for junkyard/swapmeets & also as an info book
> placed on the fan cowl at local shows. People usually ask...Dude, where'd
> you get the cool book?
>
> I've got unbelieveable equipment at my disposal to create custom graphics
> including photos or whatever!
>
> I'm trying to decide if it would be worth my time to do it for somebody
> else.
>
> Besides with the web...the auto info is readily available so research
> wouldn't be tough.
>
> Anybody interested?
>
> Let me know!
>
> Scott Wheeler
> 68 442 Conv
> Dallas

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 18:35:52 -0500
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@mail.cvn.net>
Subject: Re: 1966 Cutlass

Mike : 
Saw your e-mail. I have 1966, 442, 2 door post coupe
Do you know if left side door is the same for Cutlass and 442. 
I need a door.

Also could use :   antenna non-power
                          rear trunk mats / and seat divider
		  the piece that attaches steering column to dash

I think most of these parts are generic for 1966 post coupes.

If you provide the following, give me a price. Thanks 

Ken Swick : 717 528 4719   Fax 717 528 8162

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 18:59:29 EST
From: JMoakBOTH <JMoakBOTH@aol.com>
Subject: Re: I need stuff

i may be intrested in the throttle cable.  Will this fit my 71 olds cutlass?
and how much will it cost?
Johnny
JMoakBoth@AOL.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 19:36:14 -0500
From: "Jonathan Eaton" <je@outraged.com>
Subject: Things I need for my two old Old's. :)

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0058_01BD1C6C.AEB0A5E0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable


I was wondering if anyone in the Toronto, Ontario area knows where I =
could find an relatively inexpensive power antenna for a 1987 Oldsmobile =
98 Grande Special, also an outdoor temperature gauge and a front left =
headlight lens.

Any help would be appreciated.. :)

=20
Jonathan R. Eaton
je@outraged.com

- ------=_NextPart_000_0058_01BD1C6C.AEB0A5E0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#800080 size=3D4>I was wondering if anyone in the =
Toronto,=20
Ontario area knows where I could find an relatively inexpensive power =
antenna=20
for a 1987 Oldsmobile 98 Grande Special, also an outdoor temperature =
gauge and a=20
front left headlight <FONT color=3D#800080>lens</FONT>.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#800080 size=3D4></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#800080 size=3D4>Any help would be appreciated.. =
:)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#800080 size=3D4></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#800080 size=3D4>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#800080 size=3D4>Jonathan R. Eaton<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:je@outraged.com">je@outraged.com</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></=
HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0058_01BD1C6C.AEB0A5E0--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 19:46:19 EST
From: DR OLDS350 <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: Updated Web Page

Oldsmobile List Members:

I have just updated my whole home page. I have added a few new restoration
pictures, and there will be a lot more pictures to come!!! Make sure you sign
the guestbook and leave me a message!!!! View my page at:
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html">
http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html</A>

E-mail me at:
<A HREF="mailto:drolds350@aol.com">drolds350@aol.com</A>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 19:48:22 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: front fender patch panels?

Anyone ever used the patch panels for the front fenders on a 69 cutlass/442?

(between wheel opening and front door)

Do they include the mounting bracket section where the bolts are?

aaron

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 19:54:03 EST
From: Mikey tvb <Mikeytvb@aol.com>
Subject: head prices???

i was talking to a guy who has a set of #7 heads.  they have valves, and
springs on them.  they came off a 71 350.  he told me that he would sell them
for about a buck and a half($150).  i was just wondering if this is a good
price.  even if they need valve work i can do all it for free.  does anyone
have any suggestions about buying a set of heads?  would these do a 403 any
good?  or would they blow the bottom out the motor?  also, does a lead
addative do anything more than just harden the valve seats?

mikey tvb@aol.com
73 cutlass w/403

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 20:02:20 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Show/Info Books

>does anyone on the list think there might be a market ($35 range) for an
info 3 ring binder, customized for your car, with info like production
numbers, options, ads, restoration photos, etc... all laid out in magazine
format>

You never know.  I did the same thing for my car, listing the full history
and previous owners with old photos they supplied.  It does get alot of
attention!  The fact that computers make this type of work easier to do at
home is really your main competition.  Since the investment would be
minimal, I say GO FOR IT!

Many people can turn a wrench but don't have the "artistic ability" to put
together a professional looking presentation.  If people start showing
interest, you could even paint the binder to match the car (or at least get
close).  Start at $30. for a basic book and up the price for more
information.  OR, put together package deals.

Starter Package - basic information, HP, torque, options, production, etc.

Deluxe Package - Starter package, PLUS, Brief history, maybe a past owner or
two, old pictures, etc.

And So On......  I better quit know before I get to excited.

Good Luck if you decide to do it.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
1995 Achieva S

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 19:42:08 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: manufacturer of panels

<I read at one time (Bryceman's Oldmobile FAQ I believe) that New Center
Stamping in Detroit produces the panels.  Their phone number was reported as
(810)-239-9510.>


I live outside Detroit so I called that number and it has changed to:

New Center Stamping  - (313) 872-1722
Hours:  M-F 7:30am - 4:00pm est

Hopefully they still sell panels!

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
1995 Achieva S

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 20:10:09 -0500
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Pulling My Leg

>That reminds me of the '69 I saw at a show last year... with a '70-'72
>dashboard in it! I didn't ask why..>

Dr Frankinstein I presume?   Now that's desperation!

Or maybe the guy just couldn't decide whether he wanted a '69 body style
more or a '70 -'72 interior.

RC Hellebuyck
1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
1995 Achieva S

http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 20:15:18 EST
From: KarlAune <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: She Still Has Not Started! ('cause I'm lazy)

I have not got much done because the weather turned nasty. I did purchase
Sears' "Engine Analyser", for checking dwell, amps, volts, alt. integrity,
etc..... I'll let y'all know what I think of it when I finally use it. It has
been so wet the last several days that I would probably short everything out!

Graham Stewart of Toronto, Canada (graham.stewart@utoronto.ca) suggested;

- ->   After lots of fiddling and hassle some kind souls on the lists suggested
the timing chain [might be] the culprit. 

Well, I had not seriously considered that possibility. I am long overdue for
the chain swap. I actually aborted a swap attempt when I could not move the
center bolt on the crank pulley! Anyone care to share a method of getting that
sucker off w/o using an impact wrench? There are three holes next to each
other in the side of the counter weight or whatever is used as a harm bal on
cars w/o the harm bal. Are these for insertion of a lever to stabilize the
thing while heaving on the breaker bar?

At any rate that means that if dwell is OK, then play with the timing a
little. I am now some 15- 17 degrees before TDC and during earlier timing-
fiddlings did notice that timing did affect starting, and found (at that time)
a happy medium between starting and pinging.

Someone suggested it might be bad gas. That is something that I have been
afraid to think about. Especially because I been there and the car tried to do
that (standing on the accellerator and the brake pedal at the same time just
to keep the engine from quotting at the stop light while other drivers roll up
their windows because of the stink---I just do not recommend it!). A friend
suggested using a gasoline IV directly to the carb to see if it is bad gas. I
do not really know if that is such a hot idea.

On a related note - how would I be able to tell if someone put sugar in my gas
tank (not something I want to think about)? Would the gas taste (ugh) sweet?


>BTW There is a bimetallic-type coil spring and large pivoting block near the
>bottom of my driver's side exhaust manifold.

- ->That's the heat riser.  It is supposed to divert the exhaust under the
carburator during warm-up to make the fuel burn easier.

So the spring pulls on the block which levers open/closed a valve in the exh
manifold? Can those things be acquired through parts stores/catalogues/repro?

Great. More stuff to avoid doing.

Happy Oldsmobiling

Karl Aune and Soylent Ocean Mist
1965 Dynamic 88 Celebrity Sedan
        (Anemic)
Members OCA & IVOC

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 20:35:55 -0500
From: "Jason P. Labay" <z28cfi@gwis.com>
Subject: Re: Dick Miller Racing Event

>     1ST ANNUAL DICK MILLER RACING INC. OLDSMOBILE POWERED OPEN
>                       1/4 MILE RACE AUGUST 16,1998 AT NORWALK OHIO
>

Count me in as I only live 30 min from Norwalk. I had a blast this past year at the
Mondello Old Nats. Getting to meet some of the list members was nice, as was getting 2nd
place in the car show :-)

Jason Labay (z28cfi@gwis.com) Akron, OH
95 DCM Impala SS      80 Olds 442 W-30
85 S-10 Blazer 4x4      75 Hurst/Olds W-25

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 20:37:39 -0500
From: Stephen Cea <u1013053@warwick.net>
Subject: Subscription

To Whom this may concern,

              Please cancel my subscription , it is becoming to much of
a hassle to read all these e-mails and is interfering with my business
e-mails.
   
                                        Thank You

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 20:43:33 EST
From: JCutlass <JCutlass@aol.com>
Subject: 68 Cultass "S" heater?

The sage of the electrical shorts is getting closer to a conclusion. One of
the problems left is the blower motor will not turn off. I've got all speeds,
but when I move the lever all the way to the left, it don't turn off. I've had
more than one person tell me that on some of the older models the fan ran all
the time. That don't sound right. This fan motor should turn off shouldn't it?
What exactly does the relay on passenger side fender relay control. ( 68 w
A/C)

Tim in Oklahoma

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 19:53:50 -0600
From: Kurt Bonifay <kbonifay@mail.lig.bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: A-Body Disk Brakes

This summer I switched from drums to disk brakes on my 68 442 conv.  I
considered purchasing a kit from PST but felt the price was too
expensive.  I purchased a set of used spindles, calipers and rotors from
a 69 cutlass.  The only thing salvagable in this set were the spindles.
I purchased all the parts at DAPS.  The counter person was very helpful
in obtaining the necessary parts.  I now have replaced the total system,
front and rear brakes, excluding the proportioning valve and the master
cylinder which I will replace when the body and the frame meet, for
around $400.00.  Not a bad deal for a totally new system.  This of
course is a parts only price.  I also found an unbeatable deal on labor-
free courtesy of yours truly.  As much as I would like, I can't pass
that deal on to the rest of you.  All the parts have fit perfectly, and
I'm looking forward to see how they work.  I'm pretty sure that it was
easier than finding parts for a '66, but maybe with the right counter
help it won't be so difficult.

Rhett
'68 442 conv. (restoration in process)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 98 20:54:11 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: Four-Point Seat Belts

At 23:07 1/7/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Has anyone here installed a four-point racing harness in a Cutlass? I
>don't trust the original belts and the crossover shoulder belt would cut
>my head off in a wreck. So, I would like to install the above-mentioned
>system. The car is stock (no rollcage) and it has a pair of bucket seats
>that I liberated from a 69 H/O. Comments? Suggestions?
>
>JR
>72 Cutlass S


   Without a cage, a 4-point harness won't function as it was designed to.
You would probably have to utilize a roof rib to attach 2 points to and I'm
sure that you realize that the rolled sheet metal roof rib with a belt
attached to it that is being utilized to restrain a 175 or plus # mass will
collapse like a wet cardboard box if involved in a collision at as little as
30 MPH.  
   The opposite case in point is when I drove my '73 Cutlass Supreme stock
car head on into the turn 2 wall at about 60 MPH.  The force of the
collision (up bank into the barrier) caused the car to flip head-long (front
to rear) in the air and land square on the roof and slide into the back
stretch of the track for a couple hundred feet.  After I could hear the rest
of the 30 car pack behind me rev down (was leading those first 12 laps until
I got caught up in lap traffic which is were all the trouble happened) I hit
the release button on the 4-point harness and dropped out of the seat to the
roof and then rolled out the back window and under the trunk to the pavement
as fast as I could (really afraid of a fuel fire).  Any way I had to look
close to see a small scratch on the top of my helmet and the next day my
chest was a little sore from the restraint provided by the two upper belts
inside my shoulders across my chest.  This wasn't a full cage either. It was
a half cage built by Mike Shular (a damn good structural engineer).  A 4
point harness is great but it needs to be attached to the right structure to
function as it should.

  Glenn
  '69 4-4-2     

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 98 20:54:11 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: A-Body Disk Brakes

At 08:44 1/8/98 -0500, you wrote:
>I wrote:
>
>> I believe that front disk brakes also became standard on all of the '68
>> A-bodied Oldsmobiles, except possibly for the budget-priced F-85.
>
>To which Greg Beaulieu   <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca> replied:
>
>> Nope. I don't think they became standard until '72 or so. Both my '68 and
>> my pal Don's '68 W-30 have front drums (ugh).
>
>**************************
>
>I think that the front disk brakes actually became standard on most of the
>A-bodied Oldsmobiles in 1969.  The Cutlass Supreme which my father-in-law
>bought that year had them, and as I recall they were standard equipment.
>In my original posting I meant to type '69 where I actually put '68 in that
>statement.  (Why did they ever put those two keys so close together on my
>keyboard?!)  I knew that front disks weren't standard on the '68s, because
>my 442 also had front drums.  And I can report that those had very little
>effect for slowing the car down from speeds above 80 miles per hour.  Ugh
>indeed.  At the end of my one 140 mile per hour top speed run in that car,
>I let it coast for a couple of miles before even trying the brakes.  Sorry
>for the confusion.
>
    For what it's worth my '68 4-4-2 had front drums and my '69 has front discs.

    Glenn
    '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 21:04:12 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: manufacturer of panels

RC Hellebuyck wrote:

> 
> I live outside Detroit so I called that number and it has changed to:
> 
> New Center Stamping  - (313) 872-1722
> Hours:  M-F 7:30am - 4:00pm est
> 
> Hopefully they still sell panels!
  

RC, Find out if they still do panels and how much for conv qtrs for a 69
S and 70 Supreme and qtrs for a 72 Supreme hdtp.  Email me direct when
you find out something if you would please.

Don

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 20:57:22 -0500
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: front fender patch panels?

At 07:48 PM 1/8/98 EST, you wrote:
Aaron

        Nope. They are just the outer fender area. The inner bracket is not
reproduced. 

Jim Chermack

>Anyone ever used the patch panels for the front fenders on a 69 cutlass/442?
>
>(between wheel opening and front door)
>
>Do they include the mounting bracket section where the bolts are?
>
>aaron
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 20:56:23 -0500
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: manufacturer of panels

At 07:42 PM 1/8/98 -0500, you wrote:
To the Olds list,

         We have contacted New Center Stamping and found that they have the
original dies for alot of the 60's and 70's GM cars. They are the original
producer of these parts. We looked into getting the dies so we could repro
the correct panels and we were informed by their Vice President that the
reason they are no longer produced is that the dies are wore out, and the
have had many problems with quality control. GM told them then, to stop
producing them. Just to give everyone some idea of the cost of fixing these
cast iron dies it's in the $30,000-$50,000 area. They also would have a
setup fee of anywhere from $9,000.00 to $20,000 depending on what part they
were setting up and how many were to be run. They do not sell to the public
either. 

Jim Chermack
 


>I live outside Detroit so I called that number and it has changed to:
>
>New Center Stamping  - (313) 872-1722
>Hours:  M-F 7:30am - 4:00pm est
>
>Hopefully they still sell panels!
>
>RC Hellebuyck
>1971 4-4-2 covt. - see it at:
>1995 Achieva S
>
>http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 21:02:05 -0500
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: She Still Has Not Started! ('cause I'm lazy)

Carl

        Here's something to think about. Check all of your fuel lines and
make sure your getting it to the carb. The new fuel out today has a tendancy
to rot fuel lines and collapse the inside of them causing engine fires. It
could very well be that simple. Have you checked the fuel pump?

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 21:08:51 EST
From: R4C442 <R4C442@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Show/Info Books

Hey Gang!
    Speaking of promo items....I came across an item which sat on the showroom
floor of a local Olds dealer and pertains to the 86 Cutlass. It resembles a
voting booth about 5 feet tall and sits on an "ess" shaped pedestal. The Olds
"Rocket" emblem is on the base. The pages are arranged like an old wall juke-
box selector only they turn up/down rather than side-to-side. The information
displayed is everything pertaining to the Cutlass line ie: models, paint
codes, options, etc; If anyone is interested get back to me via E-Mail.
R4C442@aol.com or juno.com.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 21:11:55 EST
From: CRuper1 <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Oh yes still reading {laughing}MUD FIGHTS

In a message dated 98-01-08 15:30:41 EST, you write:

<< HUM, If I can't get this stupid
 rotary engine turning, I wonder how a RX7 would run with a built Olds in
 it.  Don't know if it would fit, but I have had a few people want to buy
 the body over the years to supposedly stick a 350 in it.  Wonder how
 good that would run?  Interesting thought as I will probably have an
 extra 350 block in a couple months..... >>

Hot Rod did this type of conversion on a Datsun (from what I remember).  Just
can't remember all the details involved.  It's been a few years, but they put
a Chevy 350 in it for some kicks.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 21:26:38 EST
From: CRuper1 <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: She Still Has Not Started! ('cause I'm lazy)

In a message dated 98-01-08 20:34:51 EST, you write:

<< 
 I have not got much done because the weather turned nasty. I did purchase
 Sears' "Engine Analyser", for checking dwell, amps, volts, alt. integrity,
 etc..... I'll let y'all know what I think of it when I finally use it. It has
 been so wet the last several days that I would probably short everything
out!>>

Well Karl, I don't think you have to worry about that wet rain stuff for a
little bit now, eh?  I think all the snow we got sorta took care of that one..

 <<<Graham Stewart of Toronto, Canada (graham.stewart@utoronto.ca) suggested;
 ->   After lots of fiddling and hassle some kind souls on the lists suggested
 the timing chain [might be] the culprit. 
 
 Well, I had not seriously considered that possibility. I am long overdue for
 the chain swap. I actually aborted a swap attempt when I could not move the
 center bolt on the crank pulley! Anyone care to share a method of getting
that
 sucker off w/o using an impact wrench? There are three holes next to each
 other in the side of the counter weight or whatever is used as a harm bal on
 cars w/o the harm bal. Are these for insertion of a lever to stabilize the
 thing while heaving on the breaker bar? >>

You didn't ever finish doing that?  Hmmm....  it's a good possibility that is
at least contributing to the problem.  Maybe time to mess with the distributor
a bit, and see if advancing the timing (is that the coreect direction when the
chain would be extremely slack?...), and see if that helps.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 18:30:09 -0500
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Re: Body Mounts

>OK gang, I've gotta a question on how to do something I've NEVER seen
>done:
>
>My car needs the body mounts replaced. Has anyone on the list put in new
>rubber and hardware WITHOUT removing the body?! I'd like to replace the
>mounts, but am not in a position to remove the body (nor do I want to).
>
>Thanks,
>
>Brent Pinkstaff
>'70 Cutlass S
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

Checkout:

http://www.chevelles.com/tech/archive/files/bodbush.htm

I think there is some studff on this in the olds FAQ as well (www.442.com)



Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 21:46:08 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: Show/Info Books

Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com wrote:
> 
> Question,
> 
> does anyone on the list think there might be a market ($35 range) for an
> info 3 ring binder, customized for your car, with info like production
> numbers, options, ads, restoration photos, etc... all laid out in magazine
> format with typeset pages & sleeves for anything else the owner happens to
> find.

I'd be game....  E-Me privately, and we can go into details...
- -- 
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
- - Here we go Steelers!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 19:57:00
From: <terrywiles@usa.net>
Subject: NEW CUTLASS BODY STYLE

What the heck happened to the new Cutlass'?   I for one am not really impressed with the new style, anyone else?   The Intrigue has more body styling.   They should have kept the sporty styling that they have had for so many years in the Cutlass.   Maybe this is just another couple of year lull, like when they were almost the same as the Grand AM.
____________________________________________________________________
Get free e-mail and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 22:08:54 -0500
From: loris <loris@tir.com>
Subject: Motor City Rockets contact

Who is a contact for the Motor City Rockets chapter here in Michigan? 
The address I have for MCR is in Shelby Township (my back yard
practically).  I sent a letter there but received no reply.  Is it still
in existence?  It is listed as and Olds organization on the Bryceman
page but I don't know if it is "alive".  

- -Loris
1968 Cutlass 'S' convertible
1972 Cutlass Supreme convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 18:22:39
From: Chris Matthes <cdogg73@elknet.net>
Subject: unsubscribe oldsmobile

unsubscribe oldsmoble cdogg73@elknet.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 21:12:03 -0600
From: "Samuel E. Johnson, Jr" <cutlass403@ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: head prices???

I think that the # 7 heads will make the compression ratio on the 403 go down. I
think. If you go to http://www.442.com and select index you can scroll down and
look at best flowing heads by Oldsmobile. Let me know if this help you out

Sam Johnson
1971 Cutlass 350

Mikey tvb wrote:

> i was talking to a guy who has a set of #7 heads.  they have valves, and
> springs on them.  they came off a 71 350.  he told me that he would sell them
> for about a buck and a half($150).  i was just wondering if this is a good
> price.  even if they need valve work i can do all it for free.  does anyone
> have any suggestions about buying a set of heads?  would these do a 403 any
> good?  or would they blow the bottom out the motor?  also, does a lead
> addative do anything more than just harden the valve seats?
>
> mikey tvb@aol.com
> 73 cutlass w/403

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 22:33:45 +0000
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: head prices???

Mikey tvb wrote:
> 
> i was talking to a guy who has a set of #7 heads.  they have valves, and
> springs on them.  they came off a 71 350.  he told me that he would sell them
> for about a buck and a half($150).  i was just wondering if this is a good
> price.  even if they need valve work i can do all it for free.  does anyone
> have any suggestions about buying a set of heads?  would these do a 403 any
> good?  or would they blow the bottom out the motor?  also, does a lead
> addative do anything more than just harden the valve seats?

Look up Chris Witt, he has all kinds of early heads. I think he'll give
you a better price. If you can do all the work for free, you can really
trick 'em up. FYI- I got some #6's from a junkyard for $80 and they are
now sitting on my rebuilt 73 350. As for a good price, it depends on
what condition they're in. If they are in perfect shape, then $150 is a
good buy. I think you would like them on your 403. They should boost the
compression pretty good. As for blowing out your bottom end, doubtful
unless you pack some major power goodies in it, beat the crap out of it,
and don't touch the bottom end.

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1048
*********************************

