To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1037


oldsmobile-digest       Friday, January 2 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1037



OCA Web Site Updated - '98 Nats Info Included
FWD: Stolen H/O from NJ - OCA member
Non-Olds Related/Help Needed
Yellowstone Wolves
Re: Engine Question?
cc:Mail Link to SMTP Undeliverable Message
Re: Mileage from a 455
Re: Engine Question?
[none]
Re: www.myclassiccar.com?
Re: Aftermarket quarter panels (Was Re: Experiences, experiences)
Re: Torkey 403
Re: Head ID question
Re: new exhaust!
Re: A/C Air Manifold
Re: Mileage from a 455
Re: Engine Question?
Re: Ford man/Was Headlight Knob, B/C bodies
Re: Intake Manifold Question
Olds URLS wanted for Web Page
Re: Engine Question?
Re: Intro and Olds 350 questions
50 Olds Parts
'69 Convert Quarters
Re: Mileage from a 455
Re: Opinion Survey
Re: Engine Question?
Re: Intake Manifold Problem
Re: engine ª's/455!
Re: Questions about repairs/restorations: '68 through '72 Cutlass cars
Re: Tranny, Rebuild/Replace?
Re: What did Santa leave you!
re:olds carb swap,need ideas for d88 hop-ups.....
Re: Dash Removal and Speedometer Question
Re: Repair manuals (need one)
Re: Oil questions/gas question/how much is it worth?
Re: 80' Cutlass Supreme
Re: 403 vs 455
Re: 403 Build up
Re: Fiber optics for center console
Re: 1970 W-32?
Re: Head ID question
Re: '69 Convert Quarters
Re: Intake Manifold Update
Quad forum and a name
1966 442 Trans Growl
Re: rocker installation?
cc:Mail Link to SMTP Undeliverable Message

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 20:09:35 -0500
From: "Bradford W. Nicholson" <brad442@erols.com>
Subject: OCA Web Site Updated - '98 Nats Info Included

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!
Now that that's out of the way, go check out:
http://www.erols.com/brad442/oca
Info about the 1998 OCA Nationals is there, with more to come
New Featured Member's Site - IT'S A LIST MEMBER :-)
A new story from JWO - Starfires by Night
Chapter logos at the chapter page
updated events list.
Etc.
PLEASE CHECK MY SPELLING, especially people's last name (right Lisa!-}
Later
 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eight Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - MD
e-Mail: brad442@erols.com
Personal Web Site - http://www.erols.com/brad442
Official OCA Web Site - http://www.erols.com/brad442/oca

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 20:12:07 -0500
From: "Bradford W. Nicholson" <brad442@erols.com>
Subject: FWD: Stolen H/O from NJ - OCA member

All, Thought I'd pass this along, see if the network might be able to
help.
=========================================
  Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 13:40:26 -0500
  From: Vic_Bacile@BayNetworks.COM (Vic Bacile)
    To: brad442@erols.com
Hello Brad,

My name is Victor Bacile, and I am a member of the Rallye 350 chapter in
Cranford NJ. I have raced and been involved with Olds for about 10
years. I have several wins at Raceway Park NJ and until Dec. 5 '97, I
owned an 83 Hurst Olds 15th anniv. the car was or is perfect. It was
stolen out of my parking lot in Parsippany NJ.  I am hoping somebody in
some affiliation of Olds USA clubs might get a lead for me. I am
contacting as many people as I can and I got your site out of Journey
with Olds magazine.  I still own my Olds drag car and still have a
strong hold on Olds iron, but this loss hurt...thanks...later.
Victor
============================================================

- --

 ---
| | | Brad Nicholson
| | | 1987 442 W-42
|/|\| 1994 Eight Eight LSS
| | | Oldsmobile Club of America ª18984
 ---  Oldsmobile Centennial Club - MD
e-Mail: brad442@erols.com
Personal Web Site - http://www.erols.com/brad442
Official OCA Web Site - http://www.erols.com/brad442/oca

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jan 98 01:16:49 GMT
From: Wolfhaven1@centuryinter.net
Subject: Non-Olds Related/Help Needed

To All:

Please go to this site, read the petition and sign & send it if you can. To
members of the Oldsmobile List: I know this is Non-Olds related, but as a
current member of this list, we need your help.

Don, Chris, Dennis, do the same please.

Http://www.nawa.org/petition.html

Tia, Andy & Carol

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jan 98 01:25:18 GMT
From: Wolfhaven1@centuryinter.net
Subject: Yellowstone Wolves

To All:

To members of the Olds List: This is Non-Olds related, but as a member of this
list I would like your co-operation.

Please go to this site, read whats there, and sign & send it if you can.

Dennis, Rich, Don, please do the same.

Feel free to pass this on to whomever might be interested.

Http://www.nawa.org/petition.html

In case it's not real readable: WWW.NAWA.ORG/PETITION.HTML (use lower case)

Thanks in advance, Andy & Carol

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 19:30:28 -0600
From: Sam Johnson <cutlass403@ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Question?

Joseph Keith McCall wrote:
>
> What engines were available for a '79 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme?  A friend
> has one of these at work and maybe getting rid it of soon.
>
> Thanks.
>
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
>
>                              Name: Joseph Keith McCall.vcf
>               Part 1.2       Type: text/x-vcard
>                          Encoding: quoted-printable
The engines that are available are
Oldmobile 260-403

I beleive that the chevy 305 and a six was available too

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 98 20:33:17 -0500
From: "administrator" <administrator_at_osc-headquarters@Orbital.COM>
Subject: cc:Mail Link to SMTP Undeliverable Message

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Reason: User "dholp@most.fw.hac.com (Dennis at work) at osc-link" is not found
in the cc:Mail Directory. Original text follows: - ---------------------


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To All:

To members of the Olds List: This is Non-Olds related, but as a member of this
list I would like your co-operation.

Please go to this site, read whats there, and sign & send it if you can.

Dennis, Rich, Don, please do the same.

Feel free to pass this on to whomever might be interested.

Http://www.nawa.org/petition.html

In case it's not real readable: WWW.NAWA.ORG/PETITION.HTML (use lower case)

Thanks in advance, Andy & Carol



- --simple boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 19:36:55 -0600
From: senator@itis.com (Robert F. Newbegin Jr.)
Subject: Re: Mileage from a 455

Bob Brandys writes:
>What range of MPG can one expect from driving a 455 power 1974 olds 98.
>I am not a hot rod driver, but I only get about 10 mpg.  Does anyone get
>better mileage?  what can be done to improve the MPG?

Well, I drive a '78 Cutlass Supreme with a '77 (?) 350 c.i.d.  I get about
11 mpg, but I haven't tuned it for a while.  I am told proper plugs,
contact points, idle speed, clean air filter, ignition timing and proper
tires are important.  I'm sure there are others, though; and that 4-barrel
your engine has doesn't help ;-)

Bob
'78 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 19:55:18 -0600
From: senator@itis.com (Robert F. Newbegin Jr.)
Subject: Re: Engine Question?

Joseph Keith McCal writes:
>What engines were available for a '79 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme?  A friend
>has one of these at work and maybe getting rid it of soon.
>
>Thanks.

AHA!!! A question that is within my realm of expertise!  The '79 Cutlass
Supreme came factory with: 260 cid 2-barrel (105 HP, 205 ªft) VIN code F;
305 cid 4-barrel (155 HP, 235 ªft), manufactured by Chevy, VIN code H; 350
cid 4-barrel (160 HP, 260 ªft), VIN code L, made by Chevy; and a 350
4-barrel (160 HP, 275 ªft), VIN code R, made by Olds.  It also came with a
231 cid V6, 2-barrel that put out 110 HP, 190 ªft.  I don't know what VIN
code that one had, though.

A guy I know has a '79 Cutlass too.

Bob
'78 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 23:07:30 -0300
From: Raul Martinez <rmart@satlink.com>
Subject: [none]

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suscribe oldsmobile
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 21:40:18 EST
From: W MACHINES <WMACHINES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: www.myclassiccar.com?

In a message dated 98-01-01 15:49:32 EST, you write:

<< So, what ever happened to the Great Olds Shootout on that web page where we
all
 went & voted for our favorite Olds? >>
Winner will be announced January 5th on My classic car

Thanks to everyone that voted

Mark Prince
W MACHINES

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 21:48:42 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Aftermarket quarter panels (Was Re: Experiences, experiences)

mrada wrote:
replacements parts that neither
> meets the quality or specification of an original part.  Those of us
> restoring our vehicles want nothing less.
>
> I am sorry for getting on my pedastal, however, I am boiling mad!

Chris, I for one feel that if they advertise a 'replacement part' it
should fit as it was intended to and NOT need trimming unless you want
to use only a portion of the panel.  If it doesn't fit it obviously
isn't a replacement part.  I would wonder about the truth in advertising
bit myself.  As much as these things cost, anybody on the list have they
expertise and ability to repo them among ourselves?  I would think the
original metal dies, etc are probably somewhere.  Anyone know how long
after the production year GM produces replacement parts?  Just a little
curious.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 21:02:15 -0600
From: Sam Johnson <cutlass403@ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: Torkey 403

Chris Brown Witt wrote:
>
> Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 21:10:09 -0600
> From: "Samuel E. Johnson, Jr" <cutlass403@ameritech.net>
> Subject: 403 vs 455
> My question is, I would like to build an olds 403 with about 500 lbs of
> torch. My mechanic was telling me to build the 455 but I would rather
> build the 403. Can you help me?
> ===========================
> Wow, that's a lot of "torch"! ;-)
>
> A lot of tork or torque, too.
>
> Easiest quick thing to do would be to install 7a or earlier  SB heads in 
which
> you have fitted larger valves from the 403 or maybe even larger W30 2.072"
> valves. The 1972 7a heads have larger xst valves also. Great choice.
>   Compelement that higher CRatio with a nice spicy cam. Oh, and don't forget
> that your rear gears [final drive for FWD cars] serve to multiply the tork. A
> numerically higher gear ratio multiplies the tork more.
>
> For a lot more tork, you could add Nitrous or HC pistons, either of which get
> you into a full rebuild a a lot of money. If you were going to do that 
anyhow,
> fine. Frankly, I would think getting *500* ªft out of a small block w/o N2O
> would be difficult. That little crank is just too short to make that kind of
> tork.
> --
> Chris  B. Witt :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu :=: Location: Mecca [Lansing, MI]
> *the* Rocket Scientist, fleet includes '68 Toro, 442, and 442...
>          >>> Please snip the excess lines from posts <<<
I was thinking that because the olds 403 has the biggest pistons of the
olds motors, (I guess big pistons don't build torque huh.) that it would
be a great motor to build. I guess not huh. I guess I would do better
building a 455 olds.
Have you or anyone out there in web land ever used Mondello Olds for
building you olds motors? If you have were you happy? If not mondello,
who did you use to build power to your olds motor.

Thanks for the info

Sam

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 22:13:16 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Head ID question

Supposed to be 455 heads.

Ask however you're getting these from to advise what the letter is on
the lower left front corner. All big block heads have letters here. Small
block heads have numbers.
A = 65 400
B = 66/67 400/425
C = 68/69 400/455
D = you don't want but I'll come pick em up  (68-69 W-30 / Hurst Olds)
E = 70 455
F = you don't want but I'll come pick these up also  ( 70 W30)
G = 71 455
Ga = 72 455
H = you dont want but I'll come p/u also   (71 W30)
J = 73/75 455

Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 22:13:15 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: new exhaust!

In a message dated 97-12-31 23:53:56 EST, you write:

<< i finally got my headers and 2.5" exhaust put on today!  holy cow batman!!!
>>
i got headman headers, flowmaster 2 chambers, and 2.5" pipes on my '78 cutlass
with
a 350 olds.

You should feel what a hi-po 455 with 3" exhaust feels like.
Try it if you ever can ...... you'll like it.....
guaranteeeeeeeeeed.


Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 22:13:14 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: A/C Air Manifold

In a message dated 97-12-31 14:38:14 EST, you write:

 i have 69 parts cars

Do you by chance have a 69 sport wheel ????
Color not important

Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 21:53:36 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Mileage from a 455

> Bob Brandys writes:
> >What range of MPG can one expect from driving a 455 power 1974 olds 98.
> >I am not a hot rod driver, but I only get about 10 mpg.  Does anyone get
> >better mileage?  what can be done to improve the MPG?
>
Well, my 75 Olds 98 Regency with the 455 in it got 13 on Highway,
never checked city, but couldn't imagine it being over 9. I had
145,000 on it, but kept it well maintained.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 21:55:42 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Engine Question?

260, 350, and 403, might have been the first years of trying the V6,
but I can almost guarentee those were your choices.

1977 Olds Cutlass Supreme 350 4bbl
1978 Olds Delta 88 Royale 350 4bbl
1975 Olds 98 Regency 2 door Hrd Top 455 4bbl

 > >
> > What engines were available for a '79 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme?  A friend
> > has one of these at work and maybe getting rid it of soon.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> >     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >                              Name: Joseph Keith McCall.vcf
> >               Part 1.2       Type: text/x-vcard
> >                          Encoding: quoted-printable
> The engines that are available are
> Oldmobile 260-403
>
> I beleive that the chevy 305 and a six was available too
>
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 21:58:01 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Ford man/Was Headlight Knob, B/C bodies

I hear that, almost done transplanting engines in my 78 Olds 88, when
I'm done, my 77 Cutlass is in storage. Got to love the midwest...


> Well, if I could store mine inside I most certainly would.  My other half
> is as tall as you, but he has an office and garage to store his STUFF and
> extra parts in.  I'm allowed to store my SSII wheels, sway bar and manifold
> - thats all the room thats left in the garage!  My parts wagon is my
> storage 'bin'.
>
> Temps have been in the mid to high 70's - unusual for us but we got a dose
> of desert winds.  As a result we're workin' on cars while the weather holds.
>
> Take care - happy Olds year!
>
> Lisa Madsen
> Anaheim, CA
>
> '64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
> Cruiser (twin hauler)
>
> Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
>
> My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
>
> Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
> Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://exo.com/~jht/wwwboard/olds/
>
> *** NEW ***
> Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
> http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/
>
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 19:58:32 PST
From: "Aaron Kollsmith" <kollsmith@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Intake Manifold Question

Hi Erik, from my experience with Oldsmobiles I can tell you to use
Permatex "Brush Tack" around your intake passages on both sides of the
steel shim gasket. Also you want to use a small amount of RTV around the
water passages. Mondello recomends using "his" Velpoloid fiber intake
gasket, because of the different expansion rates of aluminum and cast
iron. The fiber will withstand the scuffing alot better.

>From oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca Sat Dec 13 16:59:20 1997
>Received: by chebucto.ns.ca id <92407-27637>; Sat, 13 Dec 1997 20:56:52
- -0400
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[198.106.229.12]) by chebucto.ns.ca with SMTP id <92409-27638>; Sat, 13
Dec 1997 20:56:04 -0400
>Received: from modem22.netbridge.net (modem22.netbridge.net
[198.106.229.122]) by nbserver.netbridge.net (NTMail 3.02.13) with ESMTP
id va273281 for <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; Sat, 13 Dec 1997 16:51:53
- -0800
>Message-ID: <34932C28.7E7E@netbridge.net>
>Date:Sat, 13 Dec 1997 16:45:28 -0800
>From:Erik <erikreb@netbridge.net>
>X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win95; U)
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Intake Manifold Question
>References: <34931F25.4902@prodigy.net>
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>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>Hi,
>
>I'm planning on replacing the gaskets and seals on my '72 Cutlass.  I
>have the edelbrock Performer manifold on there and I have a couple
>questions.
>
>Should I put any sealer on the gaskets?  The instructions say yes, but
>two different mechanics tell me no, and they say just to put in at the
>end of the seals.
>
>Also, the torque sequence in my manual says to start with the outside
>bolts and work in.  But the two mechanics tell me to start with the
>inside bolts and then work out.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Erik Badzinski
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 22:02:00 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Olds URLS wanted for Web Page

Hi all, I have somewhat finished my web page and was wanting some
Olds/automobile urls to throw on there among my others, eventually I
would like to split my page into 2, 1st area being olds, second being
my personal page, I sorta have it like that, but could use some more
urls to different sites, even your home pages that are olds related,
would love to put them on there. If you would care to take a peak at
what I have so far, its at
http://www.angelfire.com/il/mikeblahblah/index.html
Please email me direct, its easier that sorting through all the
messages here. Thanks.

1977 Olds Cutlass Supreme 350 4bbl
1978 Olds Delta 88 Royale 2 dr hrd top 350 4bbl
1975 Olds 98 Regency 2 dr hrd top 455 4bbl

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 22:03:31 -0500
From: "Mike Krumwiede MIS Technician" <KRUMWIEDE@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: Engine Question?

Well, I was close, didn't know about the 305. :)

>
> AHA!!! A question that is within my realm of expertise!  The '79 Cutlass
> Supreme came factory with: 260 cid 2-barrel (105 HP, 205 ªft) VIN code F;
> 305 cid 4-barrel (155 HP, 235 ªft), manufactured by Chevy, VIN code H; 350
> cid 4-barrel (160 HP, 260 ªft), VIN code L, made by Chevy; and a 350
> 4-barrel (160 HP, 275 ªft), VIN code R, made by Olds.  It also came with a
> 231 cid V6, 2-barrel that put out 110 HP, 190 ªft.  I don't know what VIN
> code that one had, though.
>
> A guy I know has a '79 Cutlass too.
>
> Bob
> '78 Cutlass Supreme
>
>
>
>
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Krumwiede - MIS Technician
Highland Community College
Phone (815) 235-6121
Fax (815) 235-6130
Home Page http://www.highland.cc.il.us
Mailto:Krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one."

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 20:07:52 PST
From: "Aaron Kollsmith" <kollsmith@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Intro and Olds 350 questions

Craig,
The OLDSMOBILE 350 diesel crankshaft is nodular iron, but has 455 sized
3.000 inch main bearing journals compared to the gasoline version of
2.500 inch.

>From oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca Sat Dec 13 17:23:21 1997
>Received: by chebucto.ns.ca id <92417-27637>; Sat, 13 Dec 1997 21:14:45
- -0400
>Received: from NO-IDENT-SERVICE@serv1.jump.net (port 45921
[204.238.120.4]) by chebucto.ns.ca with ESMTP id <92405-27634>; Sat, 13
Dec 1997 21:13:56 -0400
>Received: from vannevar by mail.jump.net (8.8.8/jump.1.11)
> id TAA23769;  for <oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca> Sat, 13 Dec 1997
19:09:12 -0600 (CST)
>From:"Craig A. Blome" <cblome@jumpnet.com>
>To:<oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Subject: Intro and Olds 350 questions
>Date:Sat, 13 Dec 1997 19:04:18 -0600
>Message-ID: <01bd082c$3451c800$040208cf@vannevar>
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>Content-Type: text/plain;
>charset="iso-8859-1"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>X-Priority: 3
>X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
>X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.71.1712.3
>X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.71.1712.3
>Sender: oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>I wanted to introduce myself and look for information about the
Oldsmobile
>350 V8.  I don't currently own any Oldsmobiles, but have driven
Cutlasses
>and 88's in the past.  Now, I am looking for a car to build to
autocross in
>the SCCA's C Prepared class, and have thought about the G-body Cutlass.
The
>Oldsmobile motor has a lot to recommend it over the SBC, but I'm not
sure of
>a few details.  Here are my questions:
>
>--Was the 350 in the '79-80 "442 W-30" Cutlass an Olds motor and not a
>Chevy?  The books I've seen are a little unclear here.  (I would
probably
>start with a '68-70 block, but the rules say the engine had to be
installed
>in the car from the factory.)
>
>--I've heard the 330 forged crank and rods are getting close to
impossible
>to find.  True?
>
>--Believe it or not, it's apparently legal in this class to convert a
diesel
>to gasoline power, though it is unheard of to date.  Is the diesel's
crank
>plain or nodular iron?  What kind of iron alloy is used in the block
>casting?  I'm looking for a 500+ HP engine eventually, so I may be a
loon to
>even consider a cast crank.  (Unfortunately engine stroke cannot be
changed,
>so turning down a 425 crank to fit is not an option.)
>
>--Any salvage yards specializing in Oldsmobiles?
>
>Cheers,
>Craig Blome
>Current:  '96 Miata, '85 X1/9, '72 Capri
>Past:  '90 Taurus SHO, '79 Cutlass 305, '80 Cutlass 260 (ugh), '77
Chevy 350
>Delta 88
>
>
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 23:19:09 EST
From: Wrencher43 <Wrencher43@aol.com>
Subject: 50 Olds Parts

Hi All
Many Thanks Bill Culp for your response.  50 Olds body parts are hard to find,
almost impossible.  I will call up the person you mentioned and follow thru.

Once again, any one who can help locate body parts for my 50 Olds Coupe please
let me know

Mike Montana
Wrencher43@aol.com
Navarro Ca.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 23:20:29 EST
From: COUPE KING <COUPEKING@aol.com>
Subject: '69 Convert Quarters

 I've restored a bunch of cars in the last 7-8 yrs including serious show
winners. Now, none of those cars were Olds--they were mostly Bmw's, with an
odd MB and a Porsche--but I think I can say a few things on this topic.
One of the nicer things about Olds restoration is the abundance of
reproduction parts at a reasonable price, something that cannot be said for
almost any German make. The repro qtrs I put onto my '69 442 Conv cost under
$200 each, and the last set of NOS convertible qtrs I saw for sale were
$2600/pr!
Note that the convertible qtrs have a VERY different shape than the available
repro HT units. They are much flatter, and you dont have the rise and bulge
over the rear wheelwell like the coupes do.
How I solved the problem was this: I trimmed the old, original panel away just
below the rear molding strip. This saved the holes for this trim piece and
kept the original contour that I needed. Then I spot welded a ~1/2" strip of
sheet metal under the old panel, creating a ledge upon which the new 'patch'
could be attached. The new  panel was then trimmed to fit and welded in place.
The seam was easy to fill and is mostly hidden by the molding strip anyway.
I've got all my molding holes, the original contour of the quarter, and the
car is probably lighter by 75ª of Bondo.
Admittedly a new, OEM quarter would be nicer. Or even a dry, clean used
original.
And I am here in dry, sunny SoCal--but was never able to find anything even
remotely useable.

Anyway, I'm satisfied by the result on my own '69. Have your own bodyman use
that little trick I mentioned. And if you're still not happy, you are only out
'pennies' compared to the cost of those NOS qtrs. Or you can devote the rest
of your life to finding a 'good used' set off a convertible. Good luck.

Peter
CoupeKing

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 00:11:54 EST
From: BIG JERMES <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Mileage from a 455

In a message dated 98-01-01 23:08:01 EST, you write:

<< What range of MPG can one expect from driving a 455 power 1974 olds 98.
 > >I am not a hot rod driver, but I only get about 10 mpg.  Does anyone get
 > >better mileage?  what can be done to improve the MPG? >>

heh, i got a 461 with a 2004r overdrive tranny and 3.08 gears in a '67 442.
itll get around 17 mpg!  it aint no slouch, either!  :-)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 00:29:58 EST
From: BIG JERMES <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Opinion Survey

In a message dated 98-01-01 11:59:59 EST, you write:

<< I recently (yesterday)
 discovered water in my oil.  Drat!.  This is a 324 CID engine with
 @125,000 miles on it.  My wifes grandpa's car (guaranteed to never have
 been mistreated).  One cylinder is low @ 77 lbs compared to 125-140 lbs
 for the other seven. There is a miss, but the plug is firing.  It runs
 great at any speed but lopes when sitting at a traffic light in gear
 (auto trans).  What is the problem?  >>
blown head gasket, dude.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 00:36:22 EST
From: BIG JERMES <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Question?

In a message dated 98-01-01 20:36:10 EST, you write:

<< The engines that are available are
 Oldmobile 260-403  >>
sorry, no 403 was offered in a '79 cutlass.  the biggest was a 350.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 01:33:59 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Intake Manifold Problem

>> sealer, and time. Use the bigger hammer method. Use a large screwdriver or
>> chisel and drive it under the intake working on an area that is well
>> supported. On the sides against a flat surface of the heads is best. Work

I've had good luck with a large tire iron prying on the front of the
manifold, gently on one side, then the other.

>Yeah, I'll have to try that.  What do u mean when u say that my work has
>just begun?

All the garbage that will get in your valley will largely be contained by
the valley pan; lay down rags to protect the lifter valley while cleaning up
the head and end-gasket surfaces.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 01:34:02 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: engine ª's/455!

>I've always wanted a 455!  I've been thinking about it for years.  But I'm
 [snip]
>I have a million questions...
>
>Did you keep your old block, or sell it?

Definitely keep your old block (if you have the space, obviously), if it is
correct for your car; if you ever sell it, that might make or break any
potential deals. It will be worth far more then than what you can get for it
now.

>What about motor mounts and exhaust manifolds.
>Alternator brackets, air cond. brackets, pwr steering, etc.

All of these are identical; the motors are externally identical.

>If I kept all the usables from my rebuilt 400, what new parts would the 455
>need to guarantee long-term usability, and max power/performance?  Would my
>new fuel pump fit?

One other thing; you can buy a rebuilt 455 short-block from an engine
rebuilder, and use that in place of your original block; that would likely
be the most cost-effective way, but you wouldn't have a lot of the "good"
parts in there.

>Found an Edlebrock torquer intake for $99 for an Olds 455 (is that a good
>idea? would it give me anything? would it fit using all my 400 parts?)

Save your money; your stock dual-plane iron intake will likely work better
in street driving.

>I also may need a new carb, I'm not yet sure why I'm running rich.

Try fixing or rebuilding the original one; could be as simple as a stuck
power piston. Hate to see someone fix a $5 problem with a $250 carb...

>Are all 455 short blocks the same?  Year wise?

The big difference (aside from the cam) is the compression that the pistons
will give you; go for the high-compression (10.25:1) block, if you have a
choice.

>If I sold my 400 (20K miles on it), would it pay for a good deal of a rebuilt
>or nice 455?

Not nearly. Unless you happen across the 455 block of your dreams, I'd stick
with the engine you have now, as long as it runs well. You'd notice the
extra 55ci, but not *that* much, everything else being equal. If you did
start swapping parts, it'd only be worthwhile if you made the new 455 *more*
than equal!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 01:34:16 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Questions about repairs/restorations: '68 through '72 Cutlass cars

>I'd like to get some input and hopefully personal experiences regarding the
>number of hours required (and associated costs) in performing various
>repairs on these cars, assuming such work is performed by someone with
>adequate experience.
 [snip]

I'll speak on the things I just did this summer to my '70:

>brakes

Including lines, figure 4-7 hours.

>fuel line

I just did the rubber portions, which was only about an hour; add another
two hours for bending up replacement hard line, snaking it into place and
securing it.

>gas tank

1 1/2 hours.

>wiring

heh... depending on the particular problem, anywhere between 1 hour (minor
splices and ground problems) and 200 hours (full harness replacement).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 01:34:05 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Tranny, Rebuild/Replace?

>I've got a 68 Cutlass Supreme (350, 4 barrel) with a 2 speed automatic
>transmission, I don't know any more about it than that. This thing leaks
>fluid like crazy, I've replaced the pan gasket and didn't even slow it
>down. Other than leaking fluid, it seems to work alright.

If it's the rear main seal, then it's easy enough to replace once you drop
the driveshaft; if it's the front seal, however, then it's more
cost-effective to rebuild or change the tranny at the same time.

>I don't want a race car, just one that sounds nice and could maybe go
>from stoplight to stoplight a little faster than most. My question is,
>should I rebuild the existing transmission or should I replace it with
>something else? Estimates to have it rebuilt run from $450 to $650

A very good option, in that price range, would be to replace it with a
TH350; it's a bolt-in, and will give you another gear for better performance
(plus parts are more readily available). Others on the list have mentioned
that they did this swap and were very happy with it.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 01:34:07 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: What did Santa leave you!

>> For Christmas Santa gave me the Oldsmobile Restoration Guide, a book on
 [snip]
>Santa left me a model of a 55 Olds Starfire Convertible, the '69 H/O
>ornament, a Super HEI kit from MSD, and "Oldsmobile Muscle Cars" by
>Holder & Kunz. Today, I got a dipstick tube, two cans of gold paint, a
>Transpak, and an oil pickup.
>
>Tomorrow at approx. 1:30: THE ENGINE BUILDING BEGINS!

Santa came in the form of a nice box from Alpha One with "Setting the Pace"
inside; great book! I also received a half-off Hallmark H/O (christmas
package in the back seat is pretty neat; it's on the tree now), and took a
trip up to Fusick's to spend a little gift money; got a differential cover
gasket, a washer fluid tank, some window clips, and that Restoration Guide
(I would like to see us create an "errata" sheet for that book; lots of
reprints of factory material, with some additional commentary- the FAQ is
potentially more helpful).

Tomorrow, I hope it's above freezing, so I can change that differential 
fluid...
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 01:34:09 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: re:olds carb swap,need ideas for d88 hop-ups.....

>Sorry,.... the rochester i referred to yesterday ,the first two barrels =
>work fine,but the second half stutters under load and stalls if i hold =
>it. I can get a 600 cfm(dont nkow if thats the stock size,)holley for =
>199,new no adapter...

Sounds like your secondary air-valve spring wrap is too loose; try
tightening that down a little bit (add a 1/4 turn at a time) to see if it 
helps.

>as far as manifolds,cams,etc,any input is welcome =
>except for those that say get a new car....I went out today and got ac =
>delco plugs, triple silicon wires, and a wells "pro" series dist. cap =
>,appartently it has brass contacts.Any heads that i can put on diretly, =

What year is the car, and what engine again?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 01:34:11 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Dash Removal and Speedometer Question

>1. How do I remove the dash in my 70 Cutlass? What wires do I need to
>disconnect and where are the bolts that hold in the dash?

Wow, that's going to be quite a job. There are in fact only a few bolts
holding the dash pad on; it's getting to them that's the hard part
(especially the screws past the outermost vents).

The first thing I'd recommend is getting a hold of the factory manual for
this job; There are a *lot* of connections under there, and you'll
undoubtedly need the wiring schematics for this job. I can't begin to list
all the things you'll need to disconnect.

>2. I was taking out all of the quages, but couldn't get the speedometer out.
>It seams as though the wire that connects to it doesn't come out far enough
>where I can dis-assemble it. Any ideas on what my problem could be?

I believe the speedometer cable is likely holding it back; can you release
it through the gas guage or clock opening?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 01:34:14 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Repair manuals (need one)

> Looking for a source for repair manuals for a 68 Cutlass (conv) esp. for
>wiring and heater controls, under dash stuff,etc. All help appreciated.

I can highly recommend Year One's reprints, which they've been selling for
$45. A swap meet is another good option.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 01:34:18 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Oil questions/gas question/how much is it worth?

>A quart of oil every 900 miles seems like alot to me but it's been 10 years
since
>I had a REAL car. I'm used to changing 4 quarts every 4500 on my now sold
93 Civic
>SI.

I've only found it to be a problem when I end up adding oil more frequently
than I add gasoline; otherwise, a case in the trunk is cheaper than an
engine in a shop...

>I think I've found a winner. A '72 Cutlass/350 rocket for $1500. Actually, I
>negotiated the price down 1/2 on the phone and I haven't seen it yet. What
should
>I look for. What should I be concerned about.

Frame/floor/cowl/window rust, a knocking engine, or a slipping transmission.
Any of those can make this economically unfeasible (especially the rust)

>And, what kind of oil should I use. Do I still use 10w40 in summer and 5w40 in
>winter.

10W-30 year round should do you fine, unless it's really burning oil; then
go to 20W-50 for the summer.

>Also, is there a way to convert it to run on unleaded gas instead of having
to use
>lead additives?

Don't bother; the engine will live long with today's gas, unless you're
racing or towing.

>Lastly, are parts easily found(both maintanence and restoritive)? Are there
>clubs/magazines that I can tap for new body parts exc.?

Most mechanical parts, and many electrical items (relays, blower motor, etc)
are still available at your local parts stores; on my '70, I did an entire
brake system and fixed all my electrical problems with parts from everyday
parts stores. It's not like they're Ferraris or anything; they were regular
cars up until just recently.

>As you can tell I have many questions as does my wife. She's worried that
it will
>be a money pit and I'll kill myself.

It will be a money pit. As for the second one, just make sure you have
strong, well-situated jackstands.

>Kids are crying, thanks.

My 3-year old daughter loves riding in the Cutlass; maybe your kids will too?
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 01:34:21 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 80' Cutlass Supreme

>We are in a similar situation, trying to identify engines.  I have a
>smmooooooth 1978 Cutlass Supreme W-19 with what I think is a '77 350.  I'll
>tell its story in a different post, though.  Good luck in your task.
>
>Bob Newbegin Jr.
>'78 Cutlass

Bob,

Tell us about that W-19 option.

Oh, and who can name the non-performance W- options? (I noticed one in the
Restoration Guide).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 01:34:23 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 403 vs 455

>Hi my name is Sam Johnson and I am a strong lover of the Olds 403. My
>dad had two cars with this motor in it. 1977 Ninety Eight and a 1977
>olds Cutlass GMO.
>
>My question is, I would like to build an olds 403 with about 500 lbs of
>torch. My mechanic was telling me to build the 455 but I would rather
>build the 403. Can you help me?

I own cars with both engines, and while my rebuilt 403 will move, the 455
will always move my cars better. You won't get 500 ft/lbs out of a 403 on
any kind of budget, while you can't *but* get that from a 455.

Aside from complying with emissions regulations (which is why I built my
403), I can see no good reason for choosing a 403 over a 455. Sure, you'll
be happy with a 403, but I think you'd be *happier* with the 455 (cheaper,
more powerful, stronger, more responsive to modifications, parts are more
readily available, etc.).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 01:34:25 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 403 Build up

>I was just wondering if anyone could give me some ideas on a 403 build up. I
>want to get more power and tourque from my 403 but have an extremely tight
>budget. Could someone recommend a good performance package of parts for a
>403 under $500? Something that will give me a noticeablr difference.!!

Well, for that price, you'll have to stick with your stock shortblock, and
the stock intake, carb and ignition will have to serve.

Under that budget, however, you might be able to address the two main
weaknesses of the 403: the cam and the compression.

A set of 7a heads from any '72 350, with your 403's stock 2.00" intake
valves, will raise the engine's compression and improve its exhaust flow.
The purchase price and machine work will cost you around $400.

A decent cam like the Mondello JM18-20, the Edelbrock Performer or even the
'68 Hurst/Olds cam with new lifters (and springs, if you can afford them)
and a new timing chain, will make a noticeable difference as well.

In all the above things, the details (such as degreeing the cam,
port-matching the heads and manifolds, etc) are the most important thing,
and will maximize the gains you realize from these modifications. Needless
to say, the above price estimates will not include labor, and neither of
these mods are "bolt-ons", but they will be the most effective.

Any other mods above and beyond the heads and cam would be geared toward
improving the durability of the engine, but wouldn't necessarily contribute
toward power output in any dramatic way. Those kinds of mods will go way
beyond $500, though (things such as forged pistons, oiling system mods, rod
and crank preparation, balancing, etc.).

Oh, I wouldn't recommend nitrous without O-ringing the block, so scratch
that option from your plans.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 01:34:28 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Fiber optics for center console

>Where can i find this particular item?? Its the fiber optic lead thats
>attached to the shifter slide. While dealing with my recent tranny problems
>via the center console i noticed it is completely gone.

<mindreading mode on>
Ummmmm...Hmmmm.....

OK, I give up; *what* kind of car is this for? There have been a number of
lighting schemes for Oldses over the years.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 01:34:30 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 1970 W-32?

>Olds retaffed the W-32 in 1970 as the Cultass SX option. Due to insurance

To be precise, the W-32 was an engine option on the Y-79 "SX"
high-performance Cutlass Supreme option: you could get an SX that was not a
W-32 (like mine).

>higher out put motor rated just under the 442. Only difference btwn the 442
>and SX was the suspension and some motor internals ie; cam/springs water

There were three 455's that could be found in a '70 SX. The W-32 was in fact
the same exact motor that the assembly-line workers were installing on the
442's produced at the same plant: big valves, lopier cam, richer carb, 365hp
rating, etc. This W-32 option also included the 442's TH400 transmission,
wiht its firmer shifts.

The standard engine early on was the high-compression 2-bbl L-33; it was
also available on the regular Cutlass and wagon lines. This engine was out
of production by February.

The L-33 was replaced by the 4-bbl L-31 as the standard SX engine. This L-31
was same 455 engine that was installed in the big-cars that year: small
valves, mild cam, but still with the same 365hp rating that the W-32 carried.

>SX all had duals with
>cut out rear bumper and could also be ordered with the ram air hood.

I believe that the ram-air hood would be a dealer-installed item only; there
was some discussion of this on the list not long ago.

>I read an orticle that Olds was going after the market that was same as
>Pontiac with thier Grand Prix SJ / and the F*rd guys with their intermediate

As well as the Monte Carlo SS, the high-performance Mercurys, and the
various Mopar cars that could be optioned to the hilt with luxury items
(like the RT/SE Chargers and such).

>Without the "W" tag to this model it wasn't as apparent to the insurance
>companies
>that this was actually a 442 in disguise.

That may have been part of the plan

>I don't thave the figures on the SX but that is what you want to inquire.
>W-32 was a designated option only in 1969.

And in 1970, as I noted above. There was no badge designation, however, for
the '70 W-32 option as there was for the '69. In fact, the best way to tell
is from the tranny code.

Is all this already in the FAQ? It's certainly something we've discussed
before, so it should be.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 01:34:33 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Head ID question

>I need some help on some heads I may buy. I haven't seen them yet but I got
numbers.
>Supposed to be 455 heads. Guy gave me head casting ID numbers of 396021F
and 231788L. Any
>clues as to what year and application these came from would be appreciated.

OK, what he gave you are the two possible casting numbers for a 455 block:

"396021 F" for any factory-installed '68-'76 455.
"231788 L" for a '75-'76 factory-replacement 455.

So, those numbers he gave you will be of no help. To narrow down the year of
the heads, you need the large casting letter on the lower-left of the head,
or the 6-digit casting number found in the center of the head, on either
side of the valve-cover bolt boss above the center exhaust ports.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 02:41:54 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: '69 Convert Quarters

COUPE KING wrote:
Then I spot welded a ~1/2" strip of
> sheet metal under the old panel, creating a ledge upon which the new 'patch'
could be attached. The new  panel was then trimmed to fit and welded in place.

If I remember correctly, there is a tool available that you can use to
"crimp" the metal to create an offset to save the welding a piece behind
part.  Don't have any idea who makes it but I've seen it in some body
shops.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 00:58:40 -0800
From: Erik <erikreb@netbridge.net>
Subject: Re: Intake Manifold Update

M&D Gillespie wrote:
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Erik <erikreb@netbridge.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Thursday, January 01, 1998 6:58 PM
> Subject: Intake Manifold Update
>
> >snip>
> >Is there a trick or something that keeps the gaskets from moving when
> I
> >put the manifold on?  Also, I am doing this job outside, and the temp
> is
> >probably around 45 degrees.
>
> If you use something like Edelbrock "Gasgacinch" (sp??), on the
> gasket, (except for water ports), it will harden and hold the gasket
> in place. It's actually a type of contact cement.
> It was less than 40 degrees when I did mine and I had no trouble with
> either the cement or the silicone hardening. I used high temperature
> silicone around the water passages and then put about a 1/4" high bead
> instead of the rubber end seals. I also ran the bead up about 1/4"
> onto the head and gasket to ensure there was no space left that could
> leak.
> Using the silicone instead of the end seals let the manifold settle in
> place easily without having to compress the rubber.
> Everything worked great the first time around although I was paranoid
> for a couple of weeks that I had leaks that I couldn't see. Everytime
> The car left condensation or white smoke, I was convinced that there
> was a leak.
> It actually worked perfectly except for a coolant leak at the
> gooseneck gasket. If yours is chromed, file the chrome off the sealing
> surface. It will be more likely to seal. Also don't use silicone on
> this gasket. Use the Gasgacinch or some other sealer that doesn't have
> silicone in it. The anti-freeze will cause the silicone not to harden.
> If you let it harden before adding coolant, it will still be broken
> down by the silicone.
> Good luck.
>
> Mick Gillespie
> 69 Cutlass S convertible
> OCAª 29770
> mgillespie@sprynet.com
> http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

Ok, thanks.

I got another question for everybody:

I have never torqued bolts before so I am a little unsure of what to
do.  Do I start torqueing at the very top of the thread, or do I screw
it all the way in first, then torque to specs?  Thanks everybody,

Erik B.
'72 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 06:31:26 EST
From: Two72W30S <Two72W30S@aol.com>
Subject: Quad forum and a name

Hello again Jon, this is Mark Prince.  My origanal email address when I
started
online back June of 1996 was W MACHINES@aol.com.   Then about two
months ago I became Two72W30s@aol.com.  I did this because of email
problems.

However, I am not associated with the guy calling himself w-
machine@prodigy.net
or now his new email address wmachine@epix.net.

The reason I am telling you this is that I would like to recieve the Quad
forum
at my other email address.  I got the bugs worked out and most everybody
on the list really knows me by W MACHINES.  So thank you for your time
and sorry about the confusion.

However, I must remain at my orig email address again because of MCC online
and the business that I have done online.


W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
1972 442 W30 Race Rocket 12.18s @ 110 mph
1990 Quad 442 W40 Pocket Rocket 14.95 @ 96mph
both tested at the track

wmachines@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 07:13:14 -0500
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@mail.cvn.net>
Subject: 1966 442 Trans Growl

I have a 1966 442:  in first, there is a deffinite growl. 2nd and 3rd seem
to be on the
money. The car cruises and accelerates normally at speed ... 1st is another
story.

When I accelerate, I can feel the trans lifting through the automatic stick
on
the console.

Could both problems be related : loose cross member, bad mount, trans not
properly aligned? The cross bar seems tight, tried jacking it with floor
jack.

 Also : what year Transmissions will bolt up to 1966 442 (400 ci)

Thanks .... my first Olds Classic

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 07:26:34 EST
From: HCoons2818 <HCoons2818@aol.com>
Subject: Re: rocker installation?

Oopps!  Chris Witt is correct; but, not a Che*vy trick.  I always run a fully
adjustable valve train on all my olds engines and got carried away with the
description.  The majority of you out there will still be using a regular
rocker support bridge pedestal and merely tighten down as a final step.  No
lifter plunger adjustment is possible unless you have aftermarket adjustable
pushrods, or something else.  Thanks for the correction Chris.

Harold Coons
67 4-4-2

------------------------------

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From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@mail.cvn.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: 1966 442 Trans Growl
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I have a 1966 442:  in first, there is a deffinite growl. 2nd and 3rd seem
to be on the
money. The car cruises and accelerates normally at speed ... 1st is another
story.

When I accelerate, I can feel the trans lifting through the automatic stick
on
the console.

Could both problems be related : loose cross member, bad mount, trans not
properly aligned? The cross bar seems tight, tried jacking it with floor
jack.

 Also : what year Transmissions will bolt up to 1966 442 (400 ci)

Thanks .... my first Olds Classic


- --simple boundary--

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª1037
*********************************
