To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1030


oldsmobile-digest      Sunday, December 28 1997      Volume 01 : Number 1030



Re: Adhesives
Re: Adhesives
Back!
Dash Removal and Speedometer Question
Trunklid Question
Re: Adhesives
Re: Olds 1/25 Models
Re: Adhesives
oldsmobile-digest V1 ª1029
Re: Correction, ª for W-30 fenderwells
1/25 Lindberg Models-Oops!
Re: Trunklid Question
Re: Repair manuals (need one)
Re: more deltas!woohoo
list-rejoin
Re: Repair manuals (need one)
RE: non-performance question? 69 442 auto trans
57 j2 tripower
'66 tricarb aircleaners
parts site
Re: non-performance question? 69 442 auto trans
PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
66 & 67 Track Pac Kits
Carb Problems
Re: Tire Sizes
Matchbox Hot Wheels
Re: Adhesives
Headlight Knob, B/C bodies
RE: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale
Back!
Re: Back!
Questions about repairs/restorations: '68 through '72 Cutlass cars
Re: Adhesives
Re: Brake lines
FE2 Suspension Package
Timing
Re: putting headers on the '70 442

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 97 18:27:47 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: Adhesives

At 02:00 PM 12/27/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I am trying to fix a crack in the hard plastic headlight housing of my '69
>Cutlass.  I tried "Crazy Glue" but it does not seem to stick at all.  Does
>anyone know what kind of glue to use on this stuff??
>
>
>Lloyd Ferguson
>ferguson@1stnetusa.com
>
>
>

     A clear epoxy will work great, but be extra careful when applying it.
A very little goes a long way.  Just make sure that you don't get it on any
surface that you don't want it on.

     Glenn
     '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 18:31:21 -0800
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: Adhesives

Lloyd Ferguson wrote:

> I am trying to fix a crack in the hard plastic headlight housing of my
> '69
> Cutlass.  I tried "Crazy Glue" but it does not seem to stick at all.
> Does
> anyone know what kind of glue to use on this stuff??
>
> Lloyd Ferguson
> ferguson@1stnetusa.com

   at the car lot I work part time at...we have a lil trick you might
want to try...super glue....DURO brand....after applied to
part...sprinkle with baking soda.....it works as a catalyst with the
glue and hardens ASAP and its hard as a rock.....okay when your done
laughing....TRY IT...it works...I put a plastic fender back together on
my G/F's caddy this way and it's as solid as it was new....Hoagie


1970 Cutlass SX convertible
1971 442 W-30 convertible
1971 442 "hardtop coupe"
1971 Monte Carlo
1969 Camaro RS
1997 Camaro Z-28

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 23:45:04 +0000
From: clarence wirtz <cw63nova@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Back!

Hello every one on the list.  Just got back from our trip.  The Cutlass did
great.  Got about 25mpg the first tank and about 23-24 the rest.(faster
cruise speed).  We logged about 2700 miles sense Tuesday.  used 3 qts of
oil. Found an oil pan leak( hope this is the cause).

Had a gentalman in KY compliment on the car being rust free and good shape
for its age.  He said the cars up there usally have rust. Made me feel good.

Drove in rain all the way from San Antonio to KY. going up.  Coming back
drove in sleet/snow most of yesterday.  Starting out this morning on froozen
roads.


Its good to be home.



Clarence
86 Cutlass 4DR 307 O/D 2.56's
San Antonio

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 18:50:47 EST
From: DR OLDS350 <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: Dash Removal and Speedometer Question

Olds List Members:

1. How do I remove the dash in my 70 Cutlass? What wires do I need to
disconnect and where are the bolts that hold in the dash?

2. I was taking out all of the quages, but couldn't get the speedometer out.
It seams as though the wire that connects to it doesn't come out far enough
where I can dis-assemble it. Any ideas on what my problem could be?

Thanks,
Jim

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 18:52:08 EST
From: DR OLDS350 <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: Trunklid Question

I removed the trunklid off of my 70 and when it was off the thing that hold it
in place won't go back down. How do I make them go down?

Jim

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 17:15:35 -0700
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Adhesives

> > I am trying to fix a crack in the hard plastic headlight housing of my '69

One thing I've used with moderate results is a home-cooked style of
plastic welding.  All I use is an old soldering iron, and melt the
pieces together from the backside.  I may at times add other plastics in
there, as well, if buildup is necessary.  I've gotten this down to an
art for the mid 80's Cutlass grills.  (The "pigeon protectors" that
~everyone~ seems to think are meant ~only~ for their personal enjoyment,
and they push on em and push on em 'till they break off.  Man that
irritates me!)  Anyway, I've had cause to rebuild them once or twice...
Looks like crap on the backside, but works well, nonetheless.

> lil trick you might
> want to try...super glue...
> part...sprinkle with baking soda....
> hardens ASAP and its hard as a rock
> okay when your done laughing....TRY IT...it works

Very interesting!  Now, just out of curiousity, how does one go about
determining (or inventing) this procedure?  I mean, was someone
~sniffing~ the glue, and getting a little buzzed, and suddenly decide
"hey, like I wonder what would happen if I threw some stuff on that
sticky gooey stuff there.  Uh, huh huh huh.  That'd be cool, huh huh
huh.  Hey, let's try this!  Whoa, that's cool...  Huh huh......"
Maybe along the same lines of thought that resulted in a compact disc
getting tossed in the microwave.  ~THAT'S~ cool!

Or was there some scientific school of thought leading to the original
experiment?

Heh heh.  I ~will~ have to remember that, though.  Very interesting!
- --
               Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
    Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
        Sidney Montana

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 20:03:29 +0000
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Olds 1/25 Models

Jason P. Labay wrote:

> I saw a few of the Lindberg 66 W-30 models at an indoor swap meet about a
> month ago now. They were selling for $10.00 each.

OK, now, I've seen three people refer to these today, so I guess it must
be true.  Is this different from the '67 W-30 kit that I have?  Or do
you three have a conspiracy going to drive the rest of us nuts?

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 20:08:16 -0500
From: Jerry Christopher <IThEFunKI@ViperLink.Net>
Subject: Re: Adhesives

Charley Buehner wrote:
>
> > > I am trying to fix a crack in the hard plastic headlight housing of my 
'69
>
> One thing I've used with moderate results is a home-cooked style of
> plastic welding.  All I use is an old soldering iron, and melt the
> pieces together from the backside.

> Heh heh.  I ~will~ have to remember that, though.  Very interesting!

Unfortunately Olds traded looks (to me) for practicality on the 87...
no bird cage here! <G>  I have decided that if the front gets crunched
an 84-86, w/ 86 Grilles will be mounted back on.
- --
- - Jerry Christopher
- - HTTP://WWW2.Viperlink.Net/Members/IThEFunKI
- - 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: 27 Dec 1997 18:07:00 PST
From: mjones@gleep.com
Subject: oldsmobile-digest V1 ª1029

OL>Date: Fri, 26 Dec 97 21:12:58 -0400
OL>From: Mike Hall <oldsmike@flash.net>
OL>Subject: Re: Rallye pac for 77-85 B-body

OL>Our esteemed List Administrator writes:
OL>>I think Mike Hall was talking about doing this swap. I have an
OL>>opportunity to get one for mine, but aside from being a low priority
OL>>compared to the other things I'd like to do to it, it seems like a lot of
OL>>work. I think you'd need to change a couple of sending units, and knowing
OL>>what a nightmare the wiring harness in these cars is under the dash I was a
OL>>little leery of trying it. If you want to keep the idiot lights you would
OL>>need to somehow have 2 different sending units installed for the temp and
OL>>oil pressure lights and guages. I have heard of this being done with tees
OL>>for the o/p sender and using a spare water opening on the intake for the
OL>>temp sender, but have never seen it myself.

OL>Yes, I am "still" in the process of making this swap. The full LH side of
OL>"woodgrain" trim will need to be replaced so that the gauge cluster can
OL>fit inside of the "well" about the steering column. I have bought new
OL>senders, temp and oil pressure, and trim them in to their appropriate

I am sorry, the message got cut off right in the middle.  I couldn't
reply to Greg's message because of nearly identical problems (his
message was in the deleted area of the reply window).

On Xmas day, I looked through my '78 Service manual, and figure out how
the wiring harness hooked up.  I then went to my Delta and felt behinc
the dash for an extra hookup, which was THERE.  It is tucked up on the
left side of the steering wheel.  I can definitely feel the male end of
the plug and could see it a little in the light I had.  It looked like
the plug in the service manual to hook the gauges up.  To be sure, I
could look under the dash of my mom's '90 Custom Cruiser (SAME DASH!)
because she has these gauges.

The sending units would be pretty easy, my father has a socket for them
(we had to replace my mom's oil sender one time, and he is going to do
the same kind of swap (different gauges) on his '84 Ford Ranger.

Currently I have an auto gage (economy priced auto meter gauges) hanging
where the ashtray is, but they are getting worn out.  The only gauge I
would keep IMO would be the mechanical oil pressure gauge.

The most time-consuming part to take off when I took off the LH bezel
was the headlight switch knob!  That this is a PIA to get off!

Mike Jones
'78 Delta 88 2dr
Mailto:  Mjones @gleep.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 20:45:04 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Correction, ª for W-30 fenderwells

HI everyone,

If anyone was interested, I goofed on the ª for the guy with the red '70 - '72
W-30 inner fenderwells for $250.  It's 770-931-8331, sorry.

Aaron

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 20:50:56 EST
From: Cnvrtbl442 <Cnvrtbl442@aol.com>
Subject: 1/25 Lindberg Models-Oops!

First off let me apologize for my inability to transfer data from my
eyes to the keyboard when it has to spend more than 10 minutes
or so in my head....   The Lindberg Models that I was referring to
were the 67's and not 66's.....Sorry...  They are the No.72171's
that were discussed a couple months ago that were recalled for
incorrect parts.  They mostly only made it to the distributer level
and not that many were sold.  Lindberg I believe was going to
remedy this and re issue at a later date.  Since these are now on
the shelves of the stores I can assume the problem has been
fixed? It had something to do with the hood being wrong and the
tail lights I believe.  I believe someone said back then that if you
had one you could call Lindberg and they would send the correct
pieces to you instead of having to have to return the model for a
new one. Sorry for all the bandwidth, just trying to figure out if these
should be tucked away because of the differences or if it "ain't no
big deal" and I can treat them like the new release.  Thanks for
info that can be had....  TIM         Cnvrtbl442@AOL.Com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 19:54:57 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Trunklid Question

Jim,

These are the hinges that are under pressure from 2 torque rods (springs).
The latching of the trunk held them down when the trunk lid was attached to
them.  The only way to get them down now is to go to the torque rods &
unlatch them from the braces near the ends of each hinge.  These just snap
into slots (there are several for adjustment).  Remember that they are under
great pressure & remove them carefully using vice grips or channel locks as
you twist them from the brace slots.

Why not leave them as they are?  The trunk lid can be replaced easily onto
the hinges when you are ready.  It keeps you from having to hook every thing
back up later.

Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible


>I removed the trunklid off of my 70 and when it was off the thing that hold
it
>in place won't go back down. How do I make them go down?
>
>Jim
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 21:03:17 EST
From: JCutlass <JCutlass@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Repair manuals (need one)

 Looking for a source for repair manuals for a 68 Cutlass (conv) esp. for
wiring and heater controls, under dash stuff,etc. All help appreciated.
Thanks
Tim in Oklahoma

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 21:15:03 -0500
From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: more deltas!woohoo

- -----Original Message-----
From: mjones@gleep.com <mjones@gleep.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, December 27, 1997 8:45 PM
Subject: oldsmobile-digest V1 ª1029


>OL>Date: Fri, 26 Dec 97 21:12:58 -0400
>OL>From: Mike Hall <oldsmike@flash.net>
>OL>Subject: Re: Rallye pac for 77-85 B-body
>
>OL>Our esteemed List Administrator writes:
>OL>>I think Mike Hall was talking about doing this swap. I have an
>OL>>opportunity to get one for mine, but aside from being a low priority
>OL>>compared to the other things I'd like to do to it, it seems like a lot
of
>OL>>work. I think you'd need to change a couple of sending units, and
knowing
>OL>>what a nightmare the wiring harness in these cars is under the dash I
was a
>OL>>little leery of trying it. If you want to keep the idiot lights you
would
>OL>>need to somehow have 2 different sending units installed for the temp
and
>OL>>oil pressure lights and guages. I have heard of this being done with
tees
>OL>>for the o/p sender and using a spare water opening on the intake for
the
>OL>>temp sender, but have never seen it myself.
>
>OL>Yes, I am "still" in the process of making this swap. The full LH side
of
>OL>"woodgrain" trim will need to be replaced so that the gauge cluster can
>OL>fit inside of the "well" about the steering column. I have bought new
>OL>senders, temp and oil pressure, and trim them in to their appropriate
>
>I am sorry, the message got cut off right in the middle.  I couldn't
>reply to Greg's message because of nearly identical problems (his
>message was in the deleted area of the reply window).
>
>On Xmas day, I looked through my '78 Service manual, and figure out how
>the wiring harness hooked up.  I then went to my Delta and felt behinc
>the dash for an extra hookup, which was THERE.  It is tucked up on the
>left side of the steering wheel.  I can definitely feel the male end of
>the plug and could see it a little in the light I had.  It looked like
>the plug in the service manual to hook the gauges up.  To be sure, I
>could look under the dash of my mom's '90 Custom Cruiser (SAME DASH!)
>because she has these gauges.
>
>The sending units would be pretty easy, my father has a socket for them
>(we had to replace my mom's oil sender one time, and he is going to do
>the same kind of swap (different gauges) on his '84 Ford Ranger.
>
>Currently I have an auto gage (economy priced auto meter gauges) hanging
>where the ashtray is, but they are getting worn out.  The only gauge I
>would keep IMO would be the mechanical oil pressure gauge.
>
>The most time-consuming part to take off when I took off the LH bezel
>was the headlight switch knob!  That this is a PIA to get off!
>
>Mike Jones
>'78 Delta 88 2dr
>Mailto:  Mjones @gleep.com
>i also have a delta 88, but a 73.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 21:56:23 EST
From: COUPE KING <COUPEKING@aol.com>
Subject: list-rejoin

Back from the Holidays. Re-subscribe me please.
Peter Sliskovich
CoupeKing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 19:15:01 -0500
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Re: Repair manuals (need one)

> Looking for a source for repair manuals for a 68 Cutlass (conv) esp. for
>wiring and heater controls, under dash stuff,etc. All help appreciated.
>Thanks
>Tim in Oklahoma

I've got the wiring and assembly manuals for my '69 convertible which show
how the thing was put together.  They are not instruction manulas on how to
fix them but good for reference.  I got mine from Specialty Olds for under
$25 for the two.

I also have the Body Manual that I picked up at a swap meet, it has a bit
of useful information (I have used it to figure out how to adjust the
windows and how many seat belts should be in the car).

I am still looking for a good deal on a shop manual but am not in a big
hurry because I have them for other years and most things I can figure out.



Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 22:23:12 -0500
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: non-performance question? 69 442 auto trans

The chirping did come from the use of the shift kit which probably was
removed when rebuilt. Sounds to me that the tranny is falling apart.
Doesn't sound like you got a good rebuild to me. It will only get worse
from here, so another proper rebuild is in order.

> ----------
> From: AARONLIFE[SMTP:AARONLIFE@aol.com]
> Sent: Saturday, December 27, 1997 10:17 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: non-performance question? 69 442 auto trans
>
> Hi all,
>
>    Before my transmission was rebuilt, it would shift from first to
> second and
> chirp the tires (what a sweet sound).  Since the rebuild, my
> transmission does
> funny things under full load.
>
>   Under full pedal, shifting from first to second, when it shifts, it
> sounds
> like it slips back out, or back to first, then it doesn't make it and
> the
> engine just screams, until I let up on the pedal a little then it
> clicks back
> in second.  So in order to make it work, I let up on the pedal just
> before
> it's getting ready to shift, and no problem.
>
> The guy who rebuilt the transmission said the engine is over-powering
> it, but
> I never that didn't sit well with me, and then he blamed it on the
> shift kit
> that was in my transmission to begin with (sounds possible).  He
> wasn't going
> to work on it again.
>
> Any guess?  Now it seems to do a similar thing at really slow speeds
> every
> once in a while, like pulling slowly up into a gas station, like it
> can't
> decide which gear to pick.
>
> Aaron
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 22:28:29 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: 57 j2 tripower

Came across this ad, it's a couple months old, but thought I'd let y'all know:

Date of Posting: 11/01/97
Email Address: arayman@aol.com
Description: 1957 Oldsmobile J-2 tripower unit. Complete, carbs intake,
waterneck,
linkage, and aircleaners. $450
City: west palm beach
State: Florida

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 22:47:44 -0500
From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Subject: '66 tricarb aircleaners

Hey,

Wasn't somebody at one time talking about reproducing the '66 tricarb/W30
batwing air cleaners?  Mr. Chermack, perhaps?

If so, I'd be interested in any particulars including, of course, $. Thanks!


Mike Evans
Richland, MI
evans1@net-link.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 22:50:25 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: parts site

In case anyone hasn't found it,

http://www.mm.com/swapmeet/others/cparts.htm

aaron

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 22:49:52 EST
From: AARONLIFE <AARONLIFE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: non-performance question? 69 442 auto trans

In a message dated 97-12-27 22:27:44 EST, you write:

<< e chirping did come from the use of the shift kit which probably was
 removed when rebuilt. Sounds to me that the tranny is falling apart.
 Doesn't sound like you got a good rebuild to me. It will only get worse
 from here, so another proper rebuild is in order. >>

he claimed to have left the shift kit in, and it will still chirp a little, as
long as I don't floor it, it seems to malfunction under full throttle only,
except for that slow speed behavior.  sigh.

you mean have this one rebuilt, not replace the whole trans, right?

thanks,
aaron

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 00:38:06 -0500
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

                                        C&M Classic Parts
                                      1132 Chatmoss Drive
                                    Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                                         (757)474-0869 or
                                      <chermac@exis.net>
Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm, Sat 9:00 am - 6:00 pm, Sunday Closed
We accept all major Credit Cards. VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and Discover.
New Parts:
Lots of new reproduction parts will be coming out in January.

66 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $1795.00
67 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $995.00
66 & 67 Track Pac kits (complete, just like the dealer option includes;
shroud, ducts, hoses, cam/lifters, battery accessories) Mar/Apr 98
**** Items with an ** are 10% off ontil the New Year.
____________________________________________________________________
66-67 330/320 hp Cutlass Engine (80,000 miles, complete, runs good)  $375.00
65-67 400/425 Steel Crank (no pilot bushing hole, std)  $180.00
65-67 425 "D" Block std bore, small lifter bore  $150.00
350 Stick Cranks  $175.00 ea
66-67 442 "E" 400 cu in auto engine (apart, complete, std bore, nice)  $600.00
**68-69 442 "G" 400 cu in stick engine (bal, blueprinted, mild cam, rebuilt)
$1000.00
**64-67 Power Steering Setup pump&steering box (very good)  $85.00
**64-67 Power Steering Bracket  $15.00
**64-67 Alternator Brackets (A/C car)  $20.00 set
**69 442 LH Grille (good cond)  $45.00
**69-72 4 Row Radiator Top Plate (nice)  $65.00
69-72 Ignition Switch (w/o tilt)  *new*  $24.00
69-72 Ignition Switch (w/tilt) *new*  $22.00
71 W-30 "TO" Code 10 bolt 3.73:1 anti-spin (date code '352 70') mint  $650.00
75 Hurst Olds (Hurst Hatches) no bags  $175.00 pr
**70-72 Lower A/C Vents (for 8 Track car, mint, black)  $90.00 pr
**70-72 Dash Pad and Dash Plastic (radio area, green, mint)  $185.00
**67-68 Big Cars AM/FM Stereo (nice, works well)  $95.00
**69-72  Bench Seat Headrests (black, mint)  $45.00 pr
68-72 Arm Rest Pad Bases (front, black)  $20.00 pr
68-72 Arm Rest Pad Bases (rear, post coupe, black)  $20.00 pr
**68-72 Rear Defrost  (no switch)  $30.00
**68-72 2 Door Chassis (coupe, solid)  $300.00 (you arrange shipping or pickup)
**69-72 Column Shift Steering Column (plain)  $45.00
**69-70 Console Shift Steering Column (non-tilt)  $95.00
64-72 Power Window Motors  (excellent cond) $50.00 ea
**70 350 engine "7" heads (9000 miles, 10.0 comp, 328 stick cam)  $500.00
**70-72 455 Engine Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $40.00 pr
**68-72 350 Engine Mount (NEW, Made in USA)  $38.00 pr
**64-72 Jetaway/TH350, 4 Spd Muncie Trans Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $14.00
**67-72 TH400 Trans Mounts (NEW, made in USA)  $17.00 ea
(6) Hurst Wheels 14x6 (5 on 4 3/4) nice  $2300.00
**70-75 Sport Steering Wheels (black, nice centers, complete)  $130.00 ea
**70-71 Buick GS Ram Air cleaner (nice)  $155.00
**72 Buick GS Ram Air cleaner (mint restored)  $200.00

****Lots of  66-68 Toronado Parts too.****

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts for 1964-1972 Cutlass/442
_______________________________________________
**65 Cutlass/442 PO2 Deluxe Wheelcovers (N.O.S.)  $350.00
**66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
**68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
**69 Cutlass RH Grilles (N.O.S.) $85.00 ea
**70 Cutlass Supreme Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr
**70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
**71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr
**71-72 Stone Shields (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea
**71-72 Headlight Housings (plastic) (N.O.S.) $80.00 pr
**72 Cutlass Supreme & Hurst/Olds Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr

Used Parts
_______________________________________________
64 Cutlass/442
**64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $100.00
**RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00
**Front Bumper Core  $50.00
**F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00

65 Cutlass/442
**64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $100.00
**65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  LH/RH rear $15.00 ea
**65 425 111089 Distributor  $20.00
65-(early) 66 Plain Full Wheel Covers (4, mint)  $30.00

66 Cutlass/442
**64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $100.00
**66 Cutlass Trunk Molding (very good)  $85.00
**66 Cutlass Tail Light Bezels (very good)  $85.00 pr
65-(early) 66 Plain Full Wheel Covers (4, mint)  $30.00
**66 Turbine Full Wheel Covers (4) good  $80.00 set
66 Cutlass/442 Side Chrome moldings (almost complete set) Inquire
**66 F-85/Cutlass grille (nice)   $55.00
**66 F-85/Cutlass grille (good)  $35.00
**66 330 cu in 2 bbl engine (complete w/trans, 17,000 original miles)  $300.00
**66-67 AM Radios (nice)  $30.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
**66 Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
**Post Coupe Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr

F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea

67 Cutlass/442
**67 4 spd Speedometer Adapter (3.42 gears & 4spd)  $45.00
67 Cutlass Plain Full Hubcaps (4, mint)  $30.00
**67 Plain Cutlass Holiday Hardtop interior door panels and rear sides (very
nice, blue/green) $85.00 set of 4
**67 Cutlass Jetaway Trans (low miles, w/switch pitch converter)  $125.00
**67 Cutlass/F-85 Grille Bar (very nice, no cracks, good chrome)  $45.00
67-69 Power Antenna assm (nice, no switch)  $45.00
66-67 Rear Side window lower U-seals (new, Metro Moulded)  $18.00 pr
**67 W-30 Core Support (Factory stamped, bent on drivers side)  $225.00
**67 Cutlass Hood (mint)  $100.00
67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea
67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.50 ea
**67 Rear Defrost setup (w/switch)  $45.00
**66-67 AM Radios  (nice)  $30.00 ea
66-67 RH Hardtop/Conv Doors (very nice)  $90.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
**67 F-85 Rear Bumper (very good condition)  $75.00
**67 Front Bumper (straight, core)  $70.00
**67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $50.00 pr
67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $90.00 ea
67 442 Pie Tin Decal  $3.00
**67 RH Fender (small metal patch panel, straight)  $165.00

68 Cutlass/442
**68-69 Cutlass/442 Post Coupe LH Door  $85.00
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
68 Turn Signal Lens (mint)  $12.00 ea
**68 Cutlass Rear Bumper (core)  $75.00
**68-69 14x6 SSII Wheels (set of 5)  $200.00
68-69 Power Antenna Assm (no switch, has adapter, needs mast)  $25.00
68 AM Radio  $25.00
**68  8-Track Unit (housing cracked, needs plastic one)  $65.00
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00
Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00
68 Air Cleaner Stove Pipe (pipe only)  $10.00
**68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $40.00 ea
68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea
**68-72 B-Pillar Molding Sets (black, mint) $27.50 pr

69 Cutlass/442
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
**69 Rallye Pack (Gauge side only)  $75.00
**69 Cutlass RH Grille (nice, used)  $40.00
**69 442 RH Grille (nice) $50.00
**69 Cruise Control Switch and Bezel  $25.00
**69 Radiator Core Support 3 Row (mint, no rust holes)  $150.00
**69 Tail Light Bezels (nice, pit free)  $135.00 pr
**69 Trunk Lid (Conv, nice)  $175.00
**69 Headlight Bezels  $60.00 pr
**69 Lower Dash (radio area)  (nice)  $35.00
69 C/S Side Moldings (mint, no pits)  $15.00 ea
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $135.00
**69 Cutlass/442 Doors 2 dr Hardtop (mint pair)  $200.00 pr / $110.00 ea
**69-72 Hood Hinges  $40.00 pr
**69-70 "S" Hood Louver Chrome  $25.00 pr
**69-70 "S" Hood Louver Moldiings  $25.00 pr
68-72 Windshield Molding Sets  $45.00 set
68-72 Fastback Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set
**69-72 Floor Shift Steering Column (very good)  $95.00
69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
**69 RH Fender (small nickel sized hole)  $200.00
**69 Rear Bumper (V05 rub strip) one small ding  $135.00
**69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $55.00 ea
69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $25.00 ea

70 Cutlass/442
**70 LH/RH Hood "L" moldings (few small pits under side, nice chrome) $95.00 pr
**70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
**70 Std Auto console neutral safety switch w/bracket  $65.00
70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
70 350 4 bbl Stick engine (complete, minus carb runs great)  $275.00
**70 FLAT Fender RH (small metal patch panel installed nice)  $300.00
70 Cutlass Supreme Door Panels (black mint) 4 for $100.00
**70 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
**70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (excellent)  $115.00
**70 442/SX/Rally 350 Rear Cutout Bumper (CORE)  $110.00
70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
70-72 455 Std. Iron intake manifold (auto cars)  $55.00
70-72 Std. Auto Console Shift Lens  (repro)  $23.00 ea
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea
70 RH Sport Mirror Shell  $40.00
70 F-85 Horn Button (cheap style wheel, excellent)  $10.00
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00
69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00
**69-70 "S" Hood Chrome Vents  $25.00 pr
**69-70 "S" Hood Vent Moldings  $25.00 pr

**70 "S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr
**70 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $90.00
**70-72 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
**70-72 RH Fender (has small patch panel)   $185.00

70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens   $17.00 ea
70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens  $23.00 ea

71 Cutlass/442
**70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
**70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
**71-72 Power Window Switches (nice)  $25.00 (4) button,  $10.00 singles
**71-72 Fender RH (small metal patch in bottom)  $185.00
71 350 4 bbl Engine (complete, carb to pan, runs excellent) $250.00
71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
**71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
**70-72 C/S LH/RH Side Glass  $25.00 ea
**71 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr

72 Cutlass/442
**70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
**70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
**71-72 Power Window Switches (nice)  $25.00 (4) button,  $10.00 singles
**71-72 10 Bolt 2.56:1 (open rear)  $75.00
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00
**71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
**72 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr


Jim Chermack
OCA ª24275

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 00:55:18 -0500
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: 66 & 67 Track Pac Kits

To all interested parties:

        I've seen some of the questions being raised about the Track Pac
kits. I will give some detailed information on what both kits will contain.

66 W-30 Track Pac:
(1) Tri-carb Shroud (show chromed)
(1 set) Inner and outer bumper ducts & brackets
(1 pr) Hoses & clamps (correct repros)
(1) Battery Tray & hardware
(1) 19' Positive battery cable
(1) 3 1/2' Negative battery cable
(1) 1 1/2" wide  Braided engine ground strap
(3) Air Filter Screens & Foams
(1) .474 lift/ 308 duration cam (original cam grinder)
(3) Battery cable rubber grommets

PRICE $3600.00

67 W-30 Track Pac:
(1) 4bbl Shroud (show chromed)
(1 set) Inner and outer Ducts
(1 pr) Hoses & clamps (correct repros)
(1) Battery Tray and hardware
(1) 19' Positive battery cable
(1) 3 1/2' Negative battery cable
(1) 1 1/2" wide Braided engine ground strap
(1) Air filter element
(1) .474 lift/ 308 duration cam (original cam grinder)
(3) Battery cable rubber grommets

PRICE $ 2800.00

Individual Shroud prices are:
66  $1795.00
67  $995.00

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 00:51:40 -0500
From: Miguel Morales <Miguel.Morales@mci.com>
Subject: Carb Problems

I just rebuilt a Holley 4011 twice 'cause I didn't do it right the first
time. I blew compressed air the second time through the lower bowl and
throttle plate passages which were on one unit unlike the QuadraJets and
I didn't even bother cleaning out the air horm other than spraying it
with gumout to make sure nothing was stuck to the choke butterfly. I did
make sure that once the cover was on the floats were on right. Meaning I
didn't have to tilt the carb over to one side any more to attach vacuum
break rods, choke levers, etc.
This worked great. Now when I punch it the carb screams. On QuadroJets,
make sure that the linkage to the float is correct, the little hook
doesn't really attach to anything but will be actuated by the float when
it moves up. Also don't forget the little ball bearings that on Quads
are installed under the accelerator pump. Different for Holleys. On
Holleys they  can be anywhere. Play close attention to the areas under
the atomizers especially if removable by screws, and under the secondary
diaphragm plunger. The Holley's also have a teflon rubber piece that
sits under accelerator pumps that have to be seated properly, first with
your index finger, next with a little tug on the stem above it, then a
nice blast of compressed air underneath will do the trick. Also these
Holley's can actually be converted to double pumpers with the parts
available from a speed shop in the form of actuator levers, and carb
kits, a small drill bit and a tapping set for the screw holes.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 01:12:06 -0500
From: Miguel Morales <Miguel.Morales@mci.com>
Subject: Re: Tire Sizes

On an 1984 Hurst/Olds I found that 215-65R15 and 235-60R15 was the
largest I could get on the car. The front tires seemed to be the bad
boys. I just don't see 235's fitting up there with all the plastic
flanging stuff around the wheel well. The best tores I might think of
installing are some ZR rated 225-60R15's, that the tire guy refused to
install on front and not on back to replace the staid SR BF Goodrich's.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 01:18:40 -0500
From: Miguel Morales <Miguel.Morales@mci.com>
Subject: Matchbox Hot Wheels

Check out a high-end book store. There is a book on "old" hotwheel
prices,  and for the females,  also Barbie dolls.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 03:36:59 -0500 (EST)
From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.edu>
Subject: Re: Adhesives

> I am trying to fix a crack in the hard plastic headlight housing of my '69
> Cutlass.  I tried "Crazy Glue" but it does not seem to stick at all.  Does
> anyone know what kind of glue to use on this stuff??

JB Weld works wonders for that kind of stuff.

8)
peg

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 08:46:58 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Headlight Knob, B/C bodies

On 27 Dec 1997 mjones@gleep.com wrote:
> The most time-consuming part to take off when I took off the LH bezel
> was the headlight switch knob!  That this is a PIA to get off!

Once I discovered the secret this is pretty easy. There's a spring clip
attached to the knob that holds it on the switch shaft and a little slot
on the base of the knob to access it... you just need to push the clip
towards the back of the car with a very small screwdriver while pulling on
the knob and it coes right off. Extra points if you can do this without
turning the lights on! :)

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 08:45:30 -0500
From: urbanch <urbanch@magi.com>
Subject: RE: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

If you ever get a mint 69 front bumper let me know.

- ----------
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack[SMTP:chermac@exis.net]
Sent: Sunday, December 28, 1997 12:38 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: PARTS: 442/Cutlass Parts For Sale

                                        C&M Classic Parts
                                      1132 Chatmoss Drive
                                    Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                                         (757)474-0869 or
                                      <chermac@exis.net>
Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm, Sat 9:00 am - 6:00 pm, Sunday Closed
We accept all major Credit Cards. VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and Discover.
New Parts:
Lots of new reproduction parts will be coming out in January.

66 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $1795.00
67 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $995.00
66 & 67 Track Pac kits (complete, just like the dealer option includes;
shroud, ducts, hoses, cam/lifters, battery accessories) Mar/Apr 98
**** Items with an ** are 10% off ontil the New Year.
____________________________________________________________________
66-67 330/320 hp Cutlass Engine (80,000 miles, complete, runs good)  $375.00
65-67 400/425 Steel Crank (no pilot bushing hole, std)  $180.00
65-67 425 "D" Block std bore, small lifter bore  $150.00
350 Stick Cranks  $175.00 ea
66-67 442 "E" 400 cu in auto engine (apart, complete, std bore, nice)  $600.00
**68-69 442 "G" 400 cu in stick engine (bal, blueprinted, mild cam, rebuilt)
$1000.00
**64-67 Power Steering Setup pump&steering box (very good)  $85.00
**64-67 Power Steering Bracket  $15.00
**64-67 Alternator Brackets (A/C car)  $20.00 set
**69 442 LH Grille (good cond)  $45.00
**69-72 4 Row Radiator Top Plate (nice)  $65.00
69-72 Ignition Switch (w/o tilt)  *new*  $24.00
69-72 Ignition Switch (w/tilt) *new*  $22.00
71 W-30 "TO" Code 10 bolt 3.73:1 anti-spin (date code '352 70') mint  $650.00
75 Hurst Olds (Hurst Hatches) no bags  $175.00 pr
**70-72 Lower A/C Vents (for 8 Track car, mint, black)  $90.00 pr
**70-72 Dash Pad and Dash Plastic (radio area, green, mint)  $185.00
**67-68 Big Cars AM/FM Stereo (nice, works well)  $95.00
**69-72  Bench Seat Headrests (black, mint)  $45.00 pr
68-72 Arm Rest Pad Bases (front, black)  $20.00 pr
68-72 Arm Rest Pad Bases (rear, post coupe, black)  $20.00 pr
**68-72 Rear Defrost  (no switch)  $30.00
**68-72 2 Door Chassis (coupe, solid)  $300.00 (you arrange shipping or pickup)
**69-72 Column Shift Steering Column (plain)  $45.00
**69-70 Console Shift Steering Column (non-tilt)  $95.00
64-72 Power Window Motors  (excellent cond) $50.00 ea
**70 350 engine "7" heads (9000 miles, 10.0 comp, 328 stick cam)  $500.00
**70-72 455 Engine Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $40.00 pr
**68-72 350 Engine Mount (NEW, Made in USA)  $38.00 pr
**64-72 Jetaway/TH350, 4 Spd Muncie Trans Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $14.00
**67-72 TH400 Trans Mounts (NEW, made in USA)  $17.00 ea
(6) Hurst Wheels 14x6 (5 on 4 3/4) nice  $2300.00
**70-75 Sport Steering Wheels (black, nice centers, complete)  $130.00 ea
**70-71 Buick GS Ram Air cleaner (nice)  $155.00
**72 Buick GS Ram Air cleaner (mint restored)  $200.00

****Lots of  66-68 Toronado Parts too.****

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts for 1964-1972 Cutlass/442
_______________________________________________
**65 Cutlass/442 PO2 Deluxe Wheelcovers (N.O.S.)  $350.00
**66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
**68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
**69 Cutlass RH Grilles (N.O.S.) $85.00 ea
**70 Cutlass Supreme Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr
**70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
**71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr
**71-72 Stone Shields (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea
**71-72 Headlight Housings (plastic) (N.O.S.) $80.00 pr
**72 Cutlass Supreme & Hurst/Olds Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr

Used Parts
_______________________________________________
64 Cutlass/442
**64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $100.00
**RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00
**Front Bumper Core  $50.00
**F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00

65 Cutlass/442
**64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $100.00
**65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  LH/RH rear $15.00 ea
**65 425 111089 Distributor  $20.00
65-(early) 66 Plain Full Wheel Covers (4, mint)  $30.00

66 Cutlass/442
**64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $100.00
**66 Cutlass Trunk Molding (very good)  $85.00
**66 Cutlass Tail Light Bezels (very good)  $85.00 pr
65-(early) 66 Plain Full Wheel Covers (4, mint)  $30.00
**66 Turbine Full Wheel Covers (4) good  $80.00 set
66 Cutlass/442 Side Chrome moldings (almost complete set) Inquire
**66 F-85/Cutlass grille (nice)   $55.00
**66 F-85/Cutlass grille (good)  $35.00
**66 330 cu in 2 bbl engine (complete w/trans, 17,000 original miles)  $300.00
**66-67 AM Radios (nice)  $30.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
**66 Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
**Post Coupe Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr

F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea

67 Cutlass/442
**67 4 spd Speedometer Adapter (3.42 gears & 4spd)  $45.00
67 Cutlass Plain Full Hubcaps (4, mint)  $30.00
**67 Plain Cutlass Holiday Hardtop interior door panels and rear sides (very
nice, blue/green) $85.00 set of 4
**67 Cutlass Jetaway Trans (low miles, w/switch pitch converter)  $125.00
**67 Cutlass/F-85 Grille Bar (very nice, no cracks, good chrome)  $45.00
67-69 Power Antenna assm (nice, no switch)  $45.00
66-67 Rear Side window lower U-seals (new, Metro Moulded)  $18.00 pr
**67 W-30 Core Support (Factory stamped, bent on drivers side)  $225.00
**67 Cutlass Hood (mint)  $100.00
67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea
67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.50 ea
**67 Rear Defrost setup (w/switch)  $45.00
**66-67 AM Radios  (nice)  $30.00 ea
66-67 RH Hardtop/Conv Doors (very nice)  $90.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
**67 F-85 Rear Bumper (very good condition)  $75.00
**67 Front Bumper (straight, core)  $70.00
**67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $50.00 pr
67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $90.00 ea
67 442 Pie Tin Decal  $3.00
**67 RH Fender (small metal patch panel, straight)  $165.00

68 Cutlass/442
**68-69 Cutlass/442 Post Coupe LH Door  $85.00
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
68 Turn Signal Lens (mint)  $12.00 ea
**68 Cutlass Rear Bumper (core)  $75.00
**68-69 14x6 SSII Wheels (set of 5)  $200.00
68-69 Power Antenna Assm (no switch, has adapter, needs mast)  $25.00
68 AM Radio  $25.00
**68  8-Track Unit (housing cracked, needs plastic one)  $65.00
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00
Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00
68 Air Cleaner Stove Pipe (pipe only)  $10.00
**68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $40.00 ea
68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea
**68-72 B-Pillar Molding Sets (black, mint) $27.50 pr

69 Cutlass/442
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
**69 Rallye Pack (Gauge side only)  $75.00
**69 Cutlass RH Grille (nice, used)  $40.00
**69 442 RH Grille (nice) $50.00
**69 Cruise Control Switch and Bezel  $25.00
**69 Radiator Core Support 3 Row (mint, no rust holes)  $150.00
**69 Tail Light Bezels (nice, pit free)  $135.00 pr
**69 Trunk Lid (Conv, nice)  $175.00
**69 Headlight Bezels  $60.00 pr
**69 Lower Dash (radio area)  (nice)  $35.00
69 C/S Side Moldings (mint, no pits)  $15.00 ea
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $135.00
**69 Cutlass/442 Doors 2 dr Hardtop (mint pair)  $200.00 pr / $110.00 ea
**69-72 Hood Hinges  $40.00 pr
**69-70 "S" Hood Louver Chrome  $25.00 pr
**69-70 "S" Hood Louver Moldiings  $25.00 pr
68-72 Windshield Molding Sets  $45.00 set
68-72 Fastback Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set
**69-72 Floor Shift Steering Column (very good)  $95.00
69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
**69 RH Fender (small nickel sized hole)  $200.00
**69 Rear Bumper (V05 rub strip) one small ding  $135.00
**69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $55.00 ea
69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $25.00 ea

70 Cutlass/442
**70 LH/RH Hood "L" moldings (few small pits under side, nice chrome) $95.00 pr
**70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
**70 Std Auto console neutral safety switch w/bracket  $65.00
70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
70 350 4 bbl Stick engine (complete, minus carb runs great)  $275.00
**70 FLAT Fender RH (small metal patch panel installed nice)  $300.00
70 Cutlass Supreme Door Panels (black mint) 4 for $100.00
**70 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
**70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (excellent)  $115.00
**70 442/SX/Rally 350 Rear Cutout Bumper (CORE)  $110.00
70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
70-72 455 Std. Iron intake manifold (auto cars)  $55.00
70-72 Std. Auto Console Shift Lens  (repro)  $23.00 ea
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea
70 RH Sport Mirror Shell  $40.00
70 F-85 Horn Button (cheap style wheel, excellent)  $10.00
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00
69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00
**69-70 "S" Hood Chrome Vents  $25.00 pr
**69-70 "S" Hood Vent Moldings  $25.00 pr

**70 "S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr
**70 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $90.00
**70-72 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
**70-72 RH Fender (has small patch panel)   $185.00

70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens   $17.00 ea
70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens  $23.00 ea

71 Cutlass/442
**70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
**70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
**71-72 Power Window Switches (nice)  $25.00 (4) button,  $10.00 singles
**71-72 Fender RH (small metal patch in bottom)  $185.00
71 350 4 bbl Engine (complete, carb to pan, runs excellent) $250.00
71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
**71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
**70-72 C/S LH/RH Side Glass  $25.00 ea
**71 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr

72 Cutlass/442
**70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
**70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
**71-72 Power Window Switches (nice)  $25.00 (4) button,  $10.00 singles
**71-72 10 Bolt 2.56:1 (open rear)  $75.00
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00
**71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
**72 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr


Jim Chermack
OCA ª24275

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 17:52:38 +0000
From: clarence wirtz <cw63nova@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Back!

Lets try this again, I dont, know if it went or not.

Hello every one on the list.  Just got back from our trip.  The Cutlass did
great.  Got about 25mpg the first tank and about 23-24 the rest.(faster
cruise speed).  We logged about 2700 miles sense Tuesday.  used 3 qts of
oil. Found an oil pan leak( hope this is the cause).

Had a gentalman in KY compliment on the car being rust free and good shape
for its age.  He said the cars up there usally have rust. Made me feel good.

Drove in rain all the way from San Antonio to KY. going up.  Coming back
drove in sleet/snow most of yesterday.  Starting out this morning on froozen
roads.


Its good to be home.



Clarence
86 Cutlass 4DR 307 O/D 2.56's
San Antonio

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 12:16:26 -0000
From: "Lloyd W. Culp" <bculp@HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Re: Back!

Clarence,

That is a satisfying story.  I wish that I had had the opportunity to visit
w/you on this trip.  We are all proud to use an Oldsmobile as they were
intended.  It is too bad that the weather didn't cooperate a little better.

A quart of oil per 900 mi isn't so bad.  The leak surely was a part of that.
I recall that in 1963 a Plymouth dealer told a complaining customer that a
quart every 1000 mi on a new car was very normal.  I would guess that this
applied to "real" cars too.
Bill Culp    bculp@HiWAAY.net
Decatur, Alabama
'62 Jetfire - '67 Toronado - '68 442 convertible


>
>Hello every one on the list.  Just got back from our trip.  The Cutlass did
>great.  Got about 25mpg the first tank and about 23-24 the rest.(faster
>cruise speed).  We logged about 2700 miles sense Tuesday.  used 3 qts of
>oil. Found an oil pan leak( hope this is the cause).
>
>Had a gentalman in KY compliment on the car being rust free and good shape
>for its age.  He said the cars up there usally have rust. Made me feel
good.
>
>Drove in rain all the way from San Antonio to KY. going up.  Coming back
>drove in sleet/snow most of yesterday.  Starting out this morning on
froozen
>roads.
>
>
>Its good to be home.
>
>
>
>Clarence
>86 Cutlass 4DR 307 O/D 2.56's
>San Antonio
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 13:31:00 -0500 (EST)
From: earthsci@pop.usit.net
Subject: Questions about repairs/restorations: '68 through '72 Cutlass cars

I'd like to get some input and hopefully personal experiences regarding the
number of hours required (and associated costs) in performing various
repairs on these cars, assuming such work is performed by someone with
adequate experience.

I know that some repairs such as rust repair/patching can only be estimated
on a car per car basis, but what about complete part (i.e. quarter panel)
replacement?  Such as:

quarter panels
floor pans
trunk pans
trunk/hood
seat covers
door panels
carpeting
headliners
conv. top
brakes
fuel line
gas tank
wiring

Any input is appreciated.  Thanks in advance.


earthsci@usit.net


earthsci@usit.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 14:19:16 -0800
From: "David, Terri and Rob" <hoagie@emeraldis.com>
Subject: Re: Adhesives

Charley Buehner wrote:

> > lil trick you might
> > want to try...super glue...
> > part...sprinkle with baking soda....
> > hardens ASAP and its hard as a rock
> > okay when your done laughing....TRY IT...it works
>
> Very interesting!  Now, just out of curiousity, how does one go about
> determining (or inventing) this procedure?  I mean, was someone
> ~sniffing~ the glue, and getting a little buzzed, and suddenly decide
> "hey, like I wonder what would happen if I threw some stuff on that
> sticky gooey stuff there.  Uh, huh huh huh.  That'd be cool, huh huh
> huh.  Hey, let's try this!  Whoa, that's cool...  Huh huh......"
> Maybe along the same lines of thought that resulted in a compact disc
> getting tossed in the microwave.  ~THAT'S~ cool!
>
> Or was there some scientific school of thought leading to the original
>
> experiment?
>
> Heh heh.  I ~will~ have to remember that, though.  Very interesting!
> --
>                Charley Buehner -- The Oldsmobile Magnet
> For Me:  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com       mailto:charley@rocketship.com
>                 http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
>     Sidney Radio Shack:     mailto:redline_av@webtv.net
>                         Sidney Montana

   I don't experiment with the stuff...I am merely a messenger.......it
sounds crazy when you think about it....but it WILL get you outta a
jam...I PROMISE....Hoagie

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 15:10:15 EST
From: AGUY4RUMLI <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Brake lines

In a message dated 97-12-27 11:50:38 EST, you write:

<< I have a friend that has a 1970 F*rd P/U truck with a 4.11 rear end.
 He was telling me at Christmas time that he spent $1800 on replacing
 his brake lines and doing a brake overhual.  Does this sound excessive?

 Chris Sparks

 >>
1800 seems like alot of cash. i just did them in a 72 olds all new stainless
steel brake lines $175 rear drums $40 each, rear shoes $14, Front calipers $10
each, rotors $50 each, front pads $15, power booster 180, master cylinder
40,Proportion valve $40. The only thing i didnt replace is the 3 rubber lines.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 15:12:14 -0800
From: Boogah <Boogah@en.com>
Subject: FE2 Suspension Package

I am planning to convert my 72 Cutlass Supreme to the FE2 Suspension
package.  According to the literature that I have acquired, the FE2
option includes the following:

Heavy duty front and rear springs
Heavy duty shock absorbers
front and rear stabalizer bars
heavy duty rear-suspension lower control arms (I am assuming that these
are the boxed type)
14x7 wheels

When I purchased my 72 it came with a rear anti-sway bar. My
investigation has led me to believe that a sway bar was not included
unless the FE2 was ordered. There was another suspension package which
was called F41 which included heavy duty front and rear springs and
front stabilizer bar, but no rear stabilizer bar is listed. I guess it
is possible that you could buy the rear stabilizer bar over the counter
if you wanted to, however, I highly doubt that the previous owner did
this.

I guess what I need to determine is how can I tell if the FE2 is
installed on this vehicle without the build sheet?  There is a front
stabalizer bar but how do I determine if it the heavy duty version (dont
all of these cars have a front stabilizer bar of some kind?) Was
wondering if someone out there who has a vehicle with the FE2 (1972 442)
could let me know the diameters of the front and rear stabilizer bars on
their car.

Also, will putting the heavy duty springs on my Cutlass Supreme (350
engine) raise it significantly?

I am attempting to convert my car to handle like the 442 model, and I am
probably going to install the PST polygraphite bushings also.

Has anyone out there done anything similar to this? If so what were your
results and your reccomendations? I need to make certain that I do not
make mistakes which will exhaust my limited funds that I have available
for this project.

Also, any advice on removing the rear window mouldings? I am going to
reseal my rear window and dont want to f*** up the chrome trim pieces.

Thanks

Joe
1972 Cutlass Supreme
62112 miles
350 2V ($33.00 Credit)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 15:30:45 -0800
From: Boogah <Boogah@en.com>
Subject: Timing

About 12 years ago I purchased a 71 Cutlass "S" 350 2V  from a
relative.  This car was all original with 39000 miles on it. I remember
when I tuned it up for the first time it ran like a real dog. It was
really sluggish. I checked all  of the wires, plugs, etc and found
nothing wrong.  Then I got into a conversation with the son of the
previous owner who ie an auto mechanics teacher and he informed me that
I need to advance the timing to 17 degrees versus the 12 degrees which
was on the underhood specifications sticker.  Once I did that the car
had great response and no pinging whatsoever.

I am wondering, and I wish I would have asked at the time if any mods
were done to the engine, if anyone has had this same experience or has
ever heard of doing this.

Thanks

Joe
1972 Cutlass Supreme
62112 miles
350 2V ($33.00 credit)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 15:36:41 -0500
From: "John Gill" <jgill@idmi.com>
Subject: Re: putting headers on the '70 442

Ed,

I was ready for new exhaust so I put a set of ceramic coated 1 7/8"
Hooker's on my 70 W30 last summer.  There is no escaping the fact that good
parts are expensive but the quality remains long after the price is
forgotten.  Hookers arguably fit better that any other make available - and
I believe it.  The only tight spot was where the brake proportioning valve
had to be moved about an inch down the frame.  I paid nearly $425 for these
units but they will never rust like so many others do and getting headers
coated from the manufacturer is still cheaper than shipping your headers to
one of the companies that "coat" them for you.

Nevertheless, I did the header job by myself and it took about 12-14 solid
hours (a full weekend).  The starter will have to come down, the oil filter
and oil filter adapter, and a little rerouting of the automatic
transmission cooler lines will probably be necessary.  The Olds 455 is so
wide that headers pipes will make relatively sharp turns right off of the
flanges.  This makes a few of the header bolt tricky to install in the
heads.  Bring some patience and small fingers along.

One regret - use the new copper exhaust header-to-head gaskets from Mr.
Gasket (another $25).  These seal right the first time and are much less
likely blow out.  Don't forget to re-torque the gaskets after heating up
the motor once.

Good luck!

John Gill
Cleveland, OH
jgill@idmi.com

- ----------
> From: Edwin Burger <erb22@yahoo.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: putting headers on the '70 442
> Date: Friday, December 26, 1997 1:28 PM
>
> Thanks everyone for you info on the lip for the hood!
>
> I'm putting headers on the 442, since it needs a new exhaust anyway.
> Does anyone here have any experience with headers for a 455, and more
> specifically, how easy it is to fit them into a 442?  I wanted headers
> that would make a lot of torque (tri-y headers?).  Does anyone know of
> a company that makes headers that wont cost me more than the rest of
> car?
>
> Thanks bunches,
>
> Ed
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª1030
*********************************
