
oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, January 7 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1046



HEI/problems/FAQ
72 Cutlass Supreme For Sale
Re: 87 cutlass, odd problem... and 4-4-2 progress
Re: 87 cutlass, odd problem... and 4-4-2 progress
Re: 72 Cutlass Supreme For Sale
Re: Correction : Miller event @ Norwalk not same as Mondello
Sandblasting 
WEB site for the Detroit Auto Show
Chevy Intimidator
Re: Side Marker Lites
Re: Side Marker Lites
Re: DeNovi's parts
Test
FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro
Re: engines
Test - Please Delete
Re: Converting points to HEI:
Test - Please Delete
Re: Side Marker Lites
Re: Info on Alero
Dick Miller
Test
What's it worth?
Re: Side Marker Lites
Detroit Auto Show web site list
Re: brothers
Re: Side Marker Lites
Re: What's it worth?
RE: Clarification on L34 and L35 engines
Re: HEI/problems/FAQ
Non-Olds Brakes Question
Re: brothers
Re: My engine number
Re: What's it worth?
Re: Panel controvery
Re: Sandblasting
Re: 72 Cutlass Supreme For Sale
Looking for  #1962 Oldsmobile Centennial Plaque
Re: UNBOUNCE: HEI Conversion - Again/Still
Re: Side Marker Lites
Re: Red fender wells
Re: Original Dies(was: Panel controvery)
Ignition
Detroit Auto Show web site list (Corrected list)
Re: brothers
Re: Panel controvery
'73-up Weatherstripping
Re:  Yes we do install them

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 13:23:10 -0500
From: "M&D Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: HEI/problems/FAQ

ok, now I'm really confused. In the section of the FAQ with step by
step instructions for the HEI conversion, it states that you feed the
HEI a twelve volt source connected to the terminal marked "BATT". My
assumption is that it is one wire only. The other connection is marked
"tach" for the tach connection.

In another section of the FAQ, (another author, I assume), it states
as follows:

.......Is HEI really fed by one wire?
Well, yes and no. Since the points system uses a start circuit (full
12 V) and a run circuit (with resistance in line) there will actually
be two wires. You must replace the resistance wire with a standard
wire (or bypass the resistor wire) to ensure a full 12 volts to the
coild at all times. You end up connecting the start and run wires to
the single connection on the HEI. So there is only one connection but
both ignition wires on that connection. ..............

So, is there one 12v source wire or two? If two, what is a "start"
wire? What is a "run" wire? Where do they originate? I'm really
getting frustrated with this HEI conversion. It's strictly my own
fault for having such a lack of knowledge about electrical work. Can
someone clarify the issue for me? By the time I finish this project I
should know a whole lot more about the subject :-).

Thanks in advance.

Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass S convertible
OCA# 29770
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 12:19:00 -0600
From: JR <joertexas@earthlink.net>
Subject: 72 Cutlass Supreme For Sale

I ran across a 72 Cutlass Supreme for sale today. I can't afford to buy
it, but if anyone is interested, e-mail me privately and I will get more
information on it.

The car is in good shape, except for some fairly serious rust in the
usual locations. The lower door corners and the area behind the side
windows have rusted through, and the rear deck and the trunk lid are
close behind. Otherwise, the car is complete and undamaged. The 350 4bbl
was rebuilt about a year ago and was bored .060 over. It has headers and
aftermarket wheels. The interior looked good on a cursory inspection.
The owner drives it regularly, but he is selling it because he just got
a 71 W-30 and can't afford the insurance on both cars (gee, I wish I had
that problem!). Anyway, he's asking $3000 for it, but he would probably
take less.

The car is located in Harlingen, Texas, which is about 120 miles south
of Corpus Christi.

JR
72 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 10:56:20 PST
From: "Aaron Kollsmith" <kollsmith@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 87 cutlass, odd problem... and 4-4-2 progress

A new oil pump won't replace damaged crank bearings :)

>From oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca Tue Jan  6 07:09:04 1998
>Received: by chebucto.ns.ca id <90847-6811>; Tue, 6 Jan 1998 11:10:58 
- -0400
>Received: from TIMEDOUT@datalogics.com (port 34418 [204.29.201.11]) by 
chebucto.ns.ca with SMTP id <90844-6813>; Tue, 6 Jan 1998 11:10:09 -0400
>Received: by chigate.dlogics.com (SMI-8.6/SMI-SVR4)
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>Message-Id: <51ED3F5356D8D011A0B1006097C307344E84E7@martinique>
>From:	"Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
>To:	"'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Cc:	"'ea154@cleveland.Freenet.Edu'" <ea154@cleveland.Freenet.Edu>
>Subject: Re: 87 cutlass, odd problem... and 4-4-2 progress
>Date:	Tue, 6 Jan 1998 09:05:41 -0600
>X-Priority: 3
>Mime-Version: 1.0
>X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.0.1458.49)
>Content-Type: text/plain
>Sender: oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>> but I've been having a slight problem with the engine, the 
>> oil light keeps coming on for a few seconds or 30 on startup,
>> (the oil is full)
>
>Not good. Your oil pressure is going away on you (or if you're
>lucky, you just have a bad sending unit). 
>
>> then I start driving (after the slipping tranny kicks in) and the 
>> light goes out and the thing stops beeping at me,
>
>Your engine speed is just high enough to get the pressure up 
>to where the light goes out...
>
>> but, the kicker is, as soon as i hit 40-45 and overdrive kicks 
>> in it comes on again!
>
>...when your engine speed drops down...
>
>> but if i barely tap the brake and unlock (?)
>
>...yes...
>
>> the torque converter it goes out till i let off the brakes,
>
>...since your engine speed rises slightly when the lockup
>lets go.
>
>> does anyone have a clue what this might be? and no
>> check engine light.
>
>No, it won't set the Check Engine light, at least not until
>something goes VVK, but your oil pressure as measured
>is marginal. Replace the sender with a mechanical oil
>pressure gauge and see what it shows. If it looks normal
>(especially if the sender turns out to be wet with oil on the
>outside), replace the sender; if it's not normal (I'd say less
>than 40 psi at driving speed), you're looking at a new oil
>pump -- HappyHappyJoyJoy...  :-(
>--
>Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
>Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
>101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
>Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282
>
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 10:53:14 PST
From: "Aaron Kollsmith" <kollsmith@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 87 cutlass, odd problem... and 4-4-2 progress

Sounds like you've got problems.  The Buick 231 is notorious for low oil 
pressure at low RPM's GM actually recommended installing a high volume 
high pressure oil pump to correct the problem.  I would hook up a 
mechanical oil pressure guage to verify actual oil pressure.

Aaron

>From oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca Mon Jan  5 21:26:39 1998
>Received: by chebucto.ns.ca id <93138-6813>; Tue, 6 Jan 1998 01:27:23 
- -0400
>Received: from ea154@kanga.INS.CWRU.Edu (port 3707 [129.22.8.32]) by 
chebucto.ns.ca with ESMTP id <93543-6806>; Tue, 6 Jan 1998 01:26:12 
- -0400
>Received: (ea154@localhost) by kanga.INS.CWRU.Edu 
(8.8.6+cwru/CWRU-2.5-bsdi)
>	id AAA04415; Tue, 6 Jan 1998 00:21:20 -0500 (EST) (from ea154)
>Message-Id: <199801060521.AAA04415@kanga.INS.CWRU.Edu>
>Date:	Tue, 6 Jan 1998 00:21:20 -0500 (EST)
>From:	ea154@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Josh J. Haviland)
>To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: 87 cutlass, odd problem... and 4-4-2 progress
>Sender: oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>  Hello, well :) it's been a good car so far aside from the fact it has 
a
>B*ick engine (for now) but i've been having a slight problem with the
>engine, the oil light keeps comming on for a few seconds or 30 on 
startup,
>(the oil is full) then i start driving (after the slipping tranny kicks 
in)
>and the lght goes out and the thing stops beeping at me, but, the 
kicker
>is, as soon as i hit 40-45 and overdrive kicks in it comes on again! 
but if
>i barely tap the brake and unlock (?) the torque converter it goes out 
till
>i let off the brakes, does anyone have a cluw what this might be? and 
no
>check engine light.
>
> But on the lighter side of things, and due to some rewally nice 
weather
>here in the cleveland area. i finally got the body off my 72 4-4-2, and
>i've never seen a frame with more patches in it in my life! most of 
which i
>could just break off by hand due to rust. including breaking off the 
frame
>just past the rear tires by hand also, good thing i found another 
frame,
>because i'd hate to have to fix this one :)
>well, all of you have a great day and thanx for listenin
>
>Josh
>'70 delta 88
>'72 4-4-2 (now bodyshell)
>'87 cutlass
>
>--
>__/////////\  Budgreen, ea154@cleveland.freenet.edu  /\\\\\\\\\__             
>  \\\\\\\\\/      Josh......   ISRT@hotmail.com      \/////////
>=================================================================
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 14:05:05 EST
From: BIG JERMES <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass Supreme For Sale

In a message dated 98-01-07 13:58:05 EST, you write:

<< I ran across a 72 Cutlass Supreme for sale today. I can't afford to buy
 it, but if anyone is interested, e-mail me privately and I will get more
 information on it. >>

geez, i ran across a '70-'72 cutlass a few weeks ago in the backyard of my
brother in law's house.  his mother somehow got it back there when the company
she works for repo'd it and didnt have enough room to store it.  so its been
sitting back there for aobut 2 years now.  they drove it in and it looks
pretty darn good!!  still has the rally rims on it and tires.  its yellow with
a black vynle top.  350 engine, also.  i think she would take $100 for that
car!!  so im thinkin maybe ill just give it to her.  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 14:10:23 EST
From: RPTW32 <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Correction : Miller event @ Norwalk not same as Mondello

Kurt,
 Know your car well  - I know I ran against you a couple of times over the
past 7 years that I've attended.
 I' ve always run in the Street tire class 
Have a orange 69 442 with black vinyl top and hood stripes.

Made it to quarter finals last summer and broke out against my friend
12.09 on 12.11 dial. Had him beat right at the lights too but didn't get out
of
it in time...... He went on to win..... White 71 with Black W30 stripes

Look forward to seeing ya at Dicks event this year.
Doubt I'll hit Mondello's in Bristol as I don't trailer my car and driving 120
miles
to Norwalk is still within AAA +  service shld anything break.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 98 09:21:37 PST8
From: hpnaepflin@CCGATE.HAC.COM
Subject: Sandblasting 

I'd like to do a little sandblasting to fix a some rust in the trunklid lip and
lower fenders on my 70 Cutlass and other small jobs in the future.

Which Sandblaster should I get and where?

How big a compressor will I need?

Which medium would be best for this type of job?

Thanks, Hans

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 14:42:20 -0500
From: tgstoner@umich.edu
Subject: WEB site for the Detroit Auto Show

On Wed, 07 Jan 1998 "Jacobs, Steven G." <steven_jacobs@merck.com> wrote:
> Is there a WEB site for the Detroit Auto Show?

*********************
Try:     http://carpoint.msn.com/Autoshow98/

Tom Stoner
Oldsmobile Club of America #3943
Ann Arbor, MI
tgstoner@umich.edu

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 14:47:07 -0500
From: tgstoner@umich.edu
Subject: Chevy Intimidator

On Wed, 07 Jan 1998 "Jacobs, Steven G." <steven_jacobs@merck.com> wrote:
> If you are a NASCAR fan, also check out the Chevy Intimidator concept
> car at www.newscom.com.  Dale Earnhardt and The Tasmanian Devil helped
> roll it out.

***************
The rear view on this concept Monte Carlo reminds me alot of the 1965
Checker Marathon which my mother used to drive . . .
I'm not sure that's the comparison which Chevy is looking for out of their
creation though.

Tom Stoner
Oldsmobile Club of America #3943
Ann Arbor, MI
tgstoner@umich.edu

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 14:58:44 -0500
From: tgstoner@umich.edu
Subject: Re: Side Marker Lites

On Wed, 07 Jan 1998 "Daniel A. Gulino" <gulino@bobcat.ent.ohiou.edu> wrote:

> As I remember, 1968 was the first year that cars were required to have
the
> four-way hazard flashers.  That required the addition of that little
> button/whatever that's been gracing steering columns ever since.  Also
(but
> I'm a little less sure of this) '68 was the first year that most cars had
> the locking steering wheel that required that the ignition switch be
moved
> from the dashboard to the steering column.

***********************
My recollection is that the locking steering column and the move of the
ignition switch from the dashboard was a federal law requirement beginning
January 1, 1969 and therefore did not appear until the 1969 models.  My
1968 442 had the switch on the dashboard.

Dan is probably correct about the hazard warning flashers.  I remember that
'68 442 as having them, but I don't recall if this was the first year they
were required by law.

The other safety feature I remember as first being required on cars built
after January 1, 1968 is shoulder belts.  Although I almost never used
them, I know that my '68 442 had them.

Headrests for the two front seat passenger possitions were another safety
feature first required on January 1, 1969, as I recall.  I believe they
were optional on some of the 1968 Oldsmobiles, but my 442 didn't have them.
I believe that front disk brakes also became standard on all of the '68
A-bodied Oldsmobiles, except possibly for the budget-priced F-85.

Tom Stoner
Oldsmobile Club of America #3943
Ann Arbor, MI
tgstoner@umich.edu

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 16:11:11 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Side Marker Lites

On Wed, 7 Jan 1998 tgstoner@umich.edu wrote:
> Dan is probably correct about the hazard warning flashers.  I remember that
> '68 442 as having them, but I don't recall if this was the first year they
> were required by law.

Actually I recall my dad's '67 Pontiac as having the 4-ways. I think that 
was the first year for it.

> I believe that front disk brakes also became standard on all of the '68
> A-bodied Oldsmobiles, except possibly for the budget-priced F-85.

Nope. I don't think they became standard until '72 or so. Both my '68 and 
my pal Don's '68 W-30 have front drums (ugh).

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 14:33:53 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: DeNovi's parts

Hehehe... maybe I'll call him, offer him $50 including shipping for it... ;-)

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
- ----------
Yeah, really! I was thinking of doing the same! He or I would probably end up
slamming the phone on each other's ear :)! He did say they were a little
scratched. If I do call, I'll let everyone know the state of the inventory.
- -- 
David Brown              Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
         Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com      OR     http://www.en.com/users/thall
    http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm

Conserve some bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
             ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
  http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/zip/oldsfaq4.zip

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 12:41:30 -0800
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Test

Test ignore....

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 15:57:43 -0500
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro

                                          C&M Classic Parts
                       1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                                (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
                                         <chermac@exis.net>

Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm,  Sat 9:00 am - 6:00 pm,  Sunday Closed
*We accept all major Credit Cards. VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and Discover.*
Lots of new reproduction parts will be coming out in January-March 98.

        66 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $1795.00
        67 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $995.00
        66 & 67 Track Pac kits (complete, just like the dealer option includes;
        shroud, ducts, hoses, cam/lifters, battery accessories) Mar/Apr 98.
                **** Items with an ** are 10% off thru Jan 98.
 
New reproduction parts:
Lifetime Guarantee on all correct bead window felts  $92.00 set (inner & outer)
66-67 2 dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (correct bead type) 
68-72 2 dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (not Supreme Coupes, correct bead) 

Replacement Window Felts (Flat type)  $60.00 set (inner & outer)
64-72 Cutlass/442 (state year and model)

Glove Box Liners
64-67 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
68-69 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
70-72 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99

Qrt Seals
70-72 Cutlass Supreme & Conv Qtr End seals  $13.00 pr

Hood Liners
64-65 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
66 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
67 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
68-70 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner (wclips)  $18.00
70-72 Cutlass Supreme Hood Liner (w/clips)  $18.00

Liner Clips
Round Clips  $1.00 ea
Square Clips  $1.00 ea

A-Arm Shields
68-72 Upper A-Arm dust shields  $14.99 pr

3M Stripe Kits
68 W-36 Stripe Kits (white, black, red)  $55.00 pr

New Parts:
83-87 Hurst/Olds&442 (N.O.S.) Exhaust System (complete)  $450.00
83-84 Hurst/Olds (N.O.S.) Lightning Rod Whiskers  $150.00
75 Omega Front Fenders (very nice pair)  $180.00 pr
75 Omega Bucket Seats (nice, maroon cloth)  $85.00 pr
65-67 442 Chassis (Rolling, 12 bolt, drums, with body shell)  $175.00
65-67 400/425 Steel Crank (no pilot bushing hole, std)  $180.00
65-67 425 "D" Block std bore, small lifter bore  $150.00  
350 Stick Cranks  $175.00 ea
(2) 66-67 442 "E" 400 cu in auto engine (apart, complete, std bore)  $600.00 ea
**64-67 Power Steering Bracket  $15.00
**64-67 Alternator Brackets (A/C car)  $20.00 set
**69 442 LH Grille (good cond)  $45.00
**69-72 4 Row Radiator Top Plate (nice)  $65.00 
69-72 Ignition Switch (w/o tilt)  *new*  $24.00
69-72 Ignition Switch (w/tilt) *new*  $22.00
71 W-30 "TO" Code 10 bolt 3.73:1 anti-spin (date code '352 70') mint  $650.00
75 Hurst Olds (Hurst Hatches) no bags  $195.00 pr
**70 LH/RH Hood "L" moldings (few small pits under side, nice) $95.00 pr
**70 442/SX/Rally 350 Rear Cutout Bumper (CORE)  $110.00
**70-72 Lower A/C Vents (for 8 Track car, mint, black)  $80.00 pr 
**70-72 Dash Pad and Dash Plastic (radio area, green, mint)  $185.00
**67-68 Big Cars AM/FM Stereo (nice, works well)  $75.00
**69-72  Bench Seat Headrests (black, mint)  $45.00 pr
68-72 Arm Rest Pad Bases (rear, post coupe, black)  $20.00 pr
**68-72 Rear Defrost  (no switch)  $30.00
**68-72 2 Door Chassis (coupe, solid)  $200.00 (you arrange shipping or pickup)
**69-72 Column Shift Steering Column (plain)  $45.00
**69-70 Console Shift Steering Column (non-tilt)  $95.00
64-72 Power Window Motors  (excellent cond) $50.00 ea
**70-72 455 Engine Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $40.00 pr
**68-72 350 Engine Mount (NEW, Made in USA)  $38.00 pr
**64-72 Jetaway/TH350, 4 Spd Trans Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $14.00 
**67-72 TH400 Trans Mounts (NEW, made in USA)  $17.00 ea
(6) Hurst Wheels 14x6 (5 on 4 3/4) nice  $2300.00 
**70-75 Sport Steering Wheels (black, nice centers, complete)  $130.00 ea

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts 1964-1972 Cutlass/442
**65 Cutlass/442 PO2 Deluxe Wheelcovers (N.O.S.)  $350.00
**66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea                           
**68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea                       
**69 Cutlass RH Grilles (N.O.S.) $85.00 ea                             
**70 Cutlass Supreme Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr
**70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
**71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr                          
**71-72 Stone Shields (N.O.S.) $38.00 ea                              
**71-72 Headlight Housings (plastic) (N.O.S.) $80.00 pr          
**72 Cutlass Supreme & Hurst/Olds Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr

Used Parts:
64 Cutlass/442                       
**64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $50.00
**RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00                                                  
**Front Bumper Core  $50.00                                                   
**F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00                                      

65 Cutlass/442
**64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $50.00
**65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  LH/RH rear $15.00 ea
65-(early) 66 Plain Full Wheel Covers (4, mint)  $30.00 

66 Cutlass/442
**64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $50.00
**66 Cutlass Trunk Molding (very good)  $85.00
**66 Cutlass Tail Light Bezels (very good)  $85.00 pr
65-(early) 66 Plain Full Wheel Covers (4, mint)  $30.00 
**66 Turbine Full Wheel Covers (4) good  $80.00 set
66 Cutlass/442 Side Chrome moldings (almost complete set) Inquire
**66 F-85/Cutlass grille (nice)   $55.00
**66 F-85/Cutlass grille (good)  $35.00 
**66 330 cu in 2 bbl engine (complete w/trans, 17,000 original miles)  $300.00  
**66-67 AM Radios (nice)  $30.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
**66 Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
**Post Coupe Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr
F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea                                  

67 Cutlass/442
**67 4 spd Speedometer Adapter (3.42 gears & 4spd)  $45.00
67 Cutlass Plain Full Hubcaps (4, mint)  $30.00
**67 Plain Cutlass Holiday Hardtop interior door panels and rear sides (very
nice, blue/green) $85.00 set of 4
**67 Cutlass Jetaway Trans (low miles, w/switch pitch converter)  $125.00
**67 Cutlass/F-85 Grille Bar (very nice, no cracks, good chrome)  $45.00
67-69 Power Antenna assm (nice, no switch)  $45.00
66-67 Rear Side window lower U-seals (new, Metro Moulded)  $18.00 pr
**67 Cutlass Hood (mint)  $100.00
67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea
67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.50 ea
**67 Rear Defrost setup (w/switch)  $45.00
**66-67 AM Radios  (nice)  $30.00 ea
66-67 RH Hardtop/Conv Doors (very nice)  $90.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
**67 F-85 Rear Bumper (very good condition)  $75.00
**67 Front Bumper (straight, core)  $70.00
**67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $50.00 pr
67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $90.00 ea
67 442 Pie Tin Decal  $3.00
**67 RH Fender (small metal patch panel, straight)  $165.00

68 Cutlass/442
**68-69 Cutlass/442 Post Coupe LH Door  $85.00
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
68 Turn Signal Lens (mint)  $12.00 ea
**68 Cutlass Rear Bumper (core)  $75.00
**68-69 14x6 SSII Wheels (set of 5)  $200.00
68-69 Power Antenna Assm (no switch, has adapter, needs mast)  $25.00
68 AM Radio  $25.00
**68  8-Track Unit (housing cracked, needs plastic one)  $65.00
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel  4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00              
Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set                               
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00                     
68 Air Cleaner Stove Pipe (pipe only)  $10.00                              
**68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $40.00 ea                                            
68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea                                
**68-72 B-Pillar Molding Sets (black, mint) $27.50 pr 

69 Cutlass/442
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
**69 Rallye Pack (Gauge side only)  $75.00
**69 Cutlass RH Grille (nice, used)  $40.00
**69 442 RH Grille (nice) $50.00
**69 Cruise Control Switch and Bezel  $25.00
**69 Radiator Core Support 3 Row (mint, no rust holes)  $150.00
**69 Tail Light Bezels (nice, pit free)  $135.00 pr
**69 Trunk Lid (Conv, nice)  $175.00
**69 Headlight Bezels  $60.00 pr
**69 Lower Dash (radio area)  (nice)  $35.00
69 C/S Side Moldings (mint, no pits)  $15.00 ea
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-69 LH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $135.00
68-69 RH Quarter Panel 4 door (mint)  $135.00
**69 Cutlass/442 Doors 2 dr Hardtop (mint pair)  $200.00 pr / $110.00 ea
**69-72 Hood Hinges  $40.00 pr
**69-70 "S" Hood Louver Chrome  $25.00 pr
**69-70 "S" Hood Louver Moldiings  $25.00 pr
68-72 Windshield Molding Sets  $45.00 set                                 
68-72 Fastback Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set
**69-72 Floor Shift Steering Column (very good)  $95.00
69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
**69 RH Fender (small nickel sized hole)  $200.00
**69 Rear Bumper (V05 rub strip) one small ding  $135.00
**69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $55.00 ea
69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $25.00 ea

70 Cutlass/442
**70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
**70 Std Auto console neutral safety switch w/bracket  $65.00
70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
70 350 4 bbl Stick engine (complete, minus carb runs great)  $275.00
**70 FLAT Fender RH (small metal patch panel installed nice)  $300.00 
70 Cutlass Supreme Door Panels (black mint) 4 for $100.00
**70 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
**70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (excellent)  $115.00
70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
70-72 455 Std. Iron intake manifold (auto cars)  $55.00
70-72 Std. Auto Console Shift Lens  (repro)  $23.00 ea
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea             
70 RH Sport Mirror Shell  $40.00
70 F-85 Horn Button (cheap style wheel, excellent)  $10.00
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00                                    
69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00                                
**69-70 "S" Hood Chrome Vents  $25.00 pr                                        
**69-70 "S" Hood Vent Moldings  $25.00 pr
**70 "S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr         
**70 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $90.00                                  
**70-72 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
**70-72 RH Fender (has small patch panel)   $185.00
70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens   $17.00 ea
70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens  $23.00 ea

71 Cutlass/442
**70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
**70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
**71-72 Power Window Switches (nice)  $25.00 (4) button,  $10.00 singles
**71-72 Fender RH (small metal patch in bottom)  $185.00
71 350 4 bbl Engine (complete, carb to pan, runs excellent) $250.00
71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
**71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
**70-72 C/S LH/RH Side Glass  $25.00 ea 
**71 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr

72 Cutlass/442
**70-72 Rallye Pack (Tach only, works needs needle end)  $125.00
**70-72 LH Fender (dimpled, nice)  $185.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
**71-72 Power Window Switches (nice)  $25.00 (4) button,  $10.00 singles
**71-72 10 Bolt 2.56:1 (open rear)  $75.00
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00                                  
**71-72 A/C Fan Shroud (correct ribbed type)  $55.00
**72 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr            

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 16:46:04 +0000
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: engines

M&D Gillespie wrote:
> 
> 
> Sam, This location gives you the info:
> http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/7111pp.html
> 
> It's probably cheaper to buy an already built 455 but I'm going this
> route to keep my numbers matching 350 block.

About $550 from Jeg's.

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 15:49:40 -0600
From: JR <joertexas@earthlink.net>
Subject: Test - Please Delete

test

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 17:00:11 +0000
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Converting points to HEI:

terrywiles@usa.net wrote:
> 
> Anyone out there converted their std. points to an HEI system?   Did you use aftermarket parts or swaped stuff?   I am looking at one unit from Crane called the XR700, says that there are only four wires to hook up for the install.   Ignition is not one of my strong points (no pun intended).   This system is $100, and I understand that the reliabilaty factor will be worth the money, but what can I expect in performance?   Any info would be great.

Well, now that I've rebuilt my engine, I switched to an HEI ignition.
Stock GM distributor w/ MSD HEI kit. I'll let you know.

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 16:06:56 -0600
From: JR <joertexas@earthlink.net>
Subject: Test - Please Delete

test test

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 16:09:09 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: Re: Side Marker Lites

>Also, I believe that the side marker lights were 
>1st required in '68,

Yup. Specifically, _lights_ were required but reflectors
in the lenses were not, so '68 and '69 lights are simple
lenses only. For 1970 and on, reflectors were also required,
so the markers were revamped across the board and every model
got reflectorized lenses. Since the reflectors up front had
to reflect in amber, there were no more clear marker lenses
with 194A bulbs inside (which I always thought was cool :-)
until much later when some 88/98 models had them... but of
course they had separate amber reflectors to go with them.

>I'm trying to recall what the side of a '68 Charger
>looks like, but it's escaping my memory.

It had little round bullseye-shaped lamps, a chrome ring
with a small round red or amber lens in the middle. Neat.
Check out http://www.access.digex.net/~miked/68charger.html
for a nice picture of one.
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 17:04:07 +0000
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Info on Alero

Jacobs, Steven G. wrote:
> 
> List:
> Hello, my name is Steve Jacobs.  I joined this list this morning.  I am
> looking for any information on the new Olds Alero.  Please forgive me if
> this topic has already been beat to death.  I am in the market for a
> daily driver and want to check it out.
> 
> I currently own a 1971 Cutlass Supreme Convertible.  I am the second

Okay, you'll cater to most everybody ELSE on this list.

> I have owned 4 cutlass's in my 16 years of driving.  My second car was a
> 1973 Cutlass S that I bought in 1982.  I drove it through High School.

HEY! My kind o' guy!!!!

Welcome!

- -- 
**********************************
Matt Cremean
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CreamerSoftİ Software
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5988/creamersoft.html
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/73olds.html
**********************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 17:14:03 -0800
From: evans1@serv01.net-link.net
Subject: Dick Miller

Hey, 

I stopped by Dick Miller's place today to pick up one of his catalogs,
since I was in the area.  Very nice guy, as well as very
knowledgeable.....seems to be a unique combination for Olds vendors! ;-)

Two quick things to point out:

   1)  He emphasized that he is not "taking over" the Mondello event at
Norwalk.  It will be the same format, but he prefers to approach it as the
first Dick Miller event, rather than a new host to the old Mondello event.

   2)  He mentioned that he may be moving operations to Memphis next month.
 Bummer for us Michigan guys, but if you're thinking of buying anything
from him, you'll be paying freight from Memphis next month, or Michigan
this month.

All in all, very refreshing to talk to someone who's as much an Oldsmonut
as the rest of us!
Michael A. Evans
evans1@net-link.net
Richland, MI

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 16:19:23 -0600
From: JR <joertexas@earthlink.net>
Subject: Test

test

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 17:33:19 -0500
From: loris <loris@tir.com>
Subject: What's it worth?

Opinions are very much appreciated on this one:  I have an opportunity
to purchase a 1970 Cutlass 'S' hardtop, 350cid w/2bbl carb, pwr
steering, brakes, AC, bench seat (w/split backrest), standard steel
wheels with hub caps, 50,000 original miles, one owner, in central
Florida.  The car is red (original factory paint job), white interior,
white vinyl top.  This car does not have a single spot of rust on it. 
The paint is somewhat faded (Florida sun), a few small door dings, and
crushed quarter panel moulding aft the door.  This is a very easy
restore.  It's owned by a 71 year old woman who is no longer able to
drive.  What should I offer her?  Both she and her son are clueless
about what to ask for it.  Somebody please reply quickly!  Thanks!

- -Loris
Macomb, MI

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 17:37:06 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Side Marker Lites

Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada) wrote:
> 
> Daniel A. Gulino wrote:
> 
> > As I remember, 1968 was the first year that cars were required to have the
> > four-way hazard flashers.  That required the addition of that little
> > button/whatever that's been gracing steering columns ever since.  

Somewhere about this time the feds required seat belts and a padded dash
and padded steering wheel as well as the exterior rear view mirror and
day/night mirrors.  I think the belts and padding were 1967 std
equipment items but I'm not sure.  The feds reequired a lot of safety
changes between 65 and 70.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 17:52:36 -0500
From: "John Richmond" <richmond@tir.com>
Subject: Detroit Auto Show web site list

You Guys asked for a list of web sites for the North American International

Auto Show. This is a list of the sites I have found.

http://www.autochannel.com/cybercast/detroitautoshow98/index.html?EVENTS
http://www.auto.com
http://www.wxyzcars.com
http://www.detnews.com/AUTOS/
http://www.carpoint.msn.com/naiashome

Have fun, I have spent a few hours looking at these the past few nights.
I plan on going to the show Saturday with my video camera, hope to
get some good shots and maybe again later next week with some friends.

For those of you who don't live in the Detroit area, the NAIAS is all this
town talks about for two weeks.

John Richmond
richmond@tir.com   or   jwr10@chrysler.com
Warren, MI
72 442/455

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 18:31:33 -0800
From: Boogah <Boogah@en.com>
Subject: Re: brothers

COUPE KING wrote:
> 
> Aaron-
> There is only one maker of GM authorized repro quarter panels. Fusick,
> Brothers and Year One all sell the same part.
> When I bought my quarters from Brothers 6-8 months ago, the right panel was
> out of stock. Steve got a panel from Year One--they had a supply-- and sent it
> to me when I was in a bind . There was no extra charge.

Who is the one maker of GM authorized repro quarter panels?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 18:45:13 EST
From: Big EJ <BigEJ@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Side Marker Lites

Daniel A. Gulino wrote:

>> As I remember, 1968 was the first year that cars were required to have the
>>four-way hazard flashers.  That required the addition of that little
>> button/whatever that's been gracing steering columns ever since.  Also (but

>Yup!
 
Nope!  1967 is the first year hazard warning lights were standard on Olds.
Look in any sales literature for that year.

>> I'm a little less sure of this) '68 was the first year that most cars had
>> the locking steering wheel that required that the ignition switch be moved
>>from the dashboard to the steering column.

>Nope.  1969 was probably the first year for this.  My 68 has ignition on
dash.  
Absolutely correct. 1968 was the last of the dash mounted Olds ignition
switches.   At Lansing one 1968 442 owner (his name since forgotten
unfortunately) showed me a really neat trick with his ignition.  He got a
windshield wiper button, cut a slot in the backside, and superglued it to his
ignition key.  With the key in the ignition, it looks exactly like another
switch in a row of switches and someone unfamiliar with the car will be unable
to start it.

Ernie Johnson aka
Elephant Engine Ernie 

1967 442
1950  88

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 20:05:42 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: What's it worth?

Buy it!

Hard to say for sure but around here people would ask $5-6K Cdn for a car 
like that. Maybe $2500 US? Sounds like a nice car.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 19:12:39 -0500
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: Clarification on L34 and L35 engines

Actually I remember reading in my '72 Chassis manual, that the L35
engine was used exclusively for California cars. Bob you would be
correct about the air setup differences.

Fernando Proietto
A/Manager
Systems Analyst - Informatics Division
Environment Canada
Atmospheric Environment Branch - Ontario Region
4905 Dufferin St. 
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

> ----------
> From: 	Robert Barry[SMTP:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu]
> Sent: 	Tuesday, January 06, 1998 1:40 AM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: Clarification on L34 and L35 engines
> 
> >What's the differnce between an L34 and an L35 on a 1972 350 cid?  It
> >appears to me that the L34 was used only in intermediate models and
> the
> >L35 was used on full-size models.  Otherwise, ALL of the engine specs
> >are identicle.  Or am I incorrect on this?  Thanks.
> 
> The fundamental engine specs will be identical for the L34 and L35 (as
> well
> as for the 2-bbl L32 and L33). There may be some difference in the air
> cleaner setup, exhaust manifolding, and possibly in the distributor
> numbers
> and specifications, but I'd bet money on the fact that everything else
> would
> be identical. In '73 and later, they did tune the emissions packages
> to the
> specific models that an engine might be installed in, but before that,
> most
> 350's were the virtually the same across all model lines (W31
> excepted)
> _______________________________________________________
> Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
> Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 07:10:28 -0500
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: HEI/problems/FAQ

At 01:23 PM 1/7/98 -0500, you wrote:
>ok, now I'm really confused. In the section of the FAQ with step by
>step instructions for the HEI conversion, it states that you feed the
>HEI a twelve volt source connected to the terminal marked "BATT". 

  That's correct.

> The other connection is marked "tach" for the tach connection.

  Correct again.

>So, is there one 12v source wire or two? If two, what is a "start"
>wire? What is a "run" wire? Where do they originate? I'm really
>getting frustrated with this HEI conversion.

   Simply put, in the old days (points) there was a resistor used to drop
the current availble to the ignition during normal running conditions to
prevent the points from burning out quickly.   For starting, the resistor
was bypassed so you could get a nice, "hot" spark for easy starting.

   The HEI does not need this current reduction, and it can acutally be
harmful to the HEI module if it is run thru the resistor.   Therefor, the
HEI needs just to be connected so that it receives a full 12 volts in
either of its to states - running or starting.

   The best way to find power for your HEI (at least it's how I've done it
on 20 or so conversions) is to take it from the fuse panel.  Get out your
test light and find one of the spare terminals which lights the test light
in both run (ignition key in "run" position) *AND* start (key in start
position).   Hook a wire from here to the HEI's "BAT" terminal and you're
set to go.

   The fuse panel in my '71 had no labeling on it (weathered off), so I
can't tell you what terminal it is.   The resistor mentioned above is
acutally nichrome (sp?) resistance wire; Mopar uses a conventional sand
resistor, and I don't remember what dorF uses.  I've also fixed a few which
would start only when the key was *released* from the start position.  ;^) 
 
>Mick Gillespie
>69 Cutlass S convertible
>OCA# 29770
>mgillespie@sprynet.com
>http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm

- --> Bob

- --> Bob Valentine
- --> ravalent@liii.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 19:34:08 -0500
From: "John Gill" <jgill@idmi.com>
Subject: Non-Olds Brakes Question

I know there are some mechanics out there and I have a non Olds question
about brakes.

My father is changing the brake pads on his '94 Merc*ry Sable.  The car has
4 wheel disks with anti-lock.  The rear calipers are peculiar because the
pistons will not recess back into the caliper assembly like we're
accustomed to.  I've always used a c-clamp to force it back in but we broke
a clamp trying to do this to his.  No, the calipers are not "frozen" - the
car has only 35,000 miles and I doubt that both rears would be frozen. 
They look almost new and when the brake is applied, they move freely.  

The Chilton manual calls for a special tool which is used to rotate the
piston clockwise until firmly seated.  I picked up the tool for him at a
local auto parts store but he is still having a very difficult time of it. 
They barely move inward.

Has anyone heard of such a thing?  The salesman at parts store says many
new GM and Ford products are going to this system.

Thanks.
jgill@idmi.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 19:37:01 EST
From: COUPE KING <COUPEKING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: brothers

That's a proprietary secret that I doubt we'll find the answer to. Feel free
to look.

Again, NOS is best if you can find and afford them. NOS qtrs for a '70 are for
sale in Hemmings this month for $1000 ea. Last '69 qtrs I found were $2600/pr
(convert)

Used is good--but there's a great deal of labor to properly remove one and re-
install. I've found that used original patch panels are ALWAYS better than
repro. Also, finding a good used qtr is nearly impossible, and I'm looking for
them ,and I'm in sunny, dry, SoCal. 

Lacking the dough for NOS, and lacking the 10 yrs of looking to find a perfect
used, the repro quarters are a pretty good substitute at $180/side.

I don't get this near hysteria about quarter panels that's hit the list of
late. They're not perfect but they work. If you need better, get a second job
and look for NOS. They're cheap enough to cut up for patch panels if need be.
I've used them, and I'd use them again.

Can we move on, now?

Peter Sliskovich
CoupeKing

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 19:45:21 EST
From: SRDIET <SRDIET@aol.com>
Subject: Re: My engine number

In a message dated 98-01-06 18:47:02 EST, you write:

 <<Low and behold, the number 395558 and maybe a 2
 or a Z a little past that.  I am not sure what that tells me, but the
 engine surface appears to be a gold? "

Bob,
  My Engine ID book makes the engine block code 395558 to be a 1968-72 350
engine.  The gold color was the standard Olds 350 color  during those years.

Steve Dietrich
  S/E PA
    71 442 W-30 Conv.
 
 Bob
 '78 Cutlas >>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 19:59:28 -0500
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: What's it worth?

loris wrote:

What should I offer her?  Both she and her son are clueless
> about what to ask for it.  Somebody please reply quickly!  Thanks!
> 
> -Loris
> Macomb, MI

This is kinda tough.  This is one of these cars that you really want to
buy cheap, but you don't want to take advantage of the elderly lady
owner (you don't, do you???)

I'm thinking hit them at....  what, $1500??  See if they blink...

One of two things will happen.  They'll gladly sell it to you because
they thought they'd never get that much money for it.  Or you'll
promptly find find out that they think they're sitting on top of gold
mine.

I started at $1500 on my Ninety Eight.  We went up from there...

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 20:07:10 EST
From: SRDIET <SRDIET@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Panel controvery

I came in @ the tail end of this conversation but I'll add my 2cents.
GM probably stopped making the quarter panels due to the expense and either
sold off the dies or scrapped them.  I believe that GM was required to keep
producing parts for thier vehicles for a certain # of years after production
of the cars was stopped.  After that they stop making them.

The problem with the quality of the aftermarket panels is that they are made
for more than one type of body style, the conv. qtrs. will also fit coupes.
This keeps thier tooling costs to a minimum without limiting there market to
just a single body style.  It's all about profits.

Year One class's their steel body parts and explaines what would be required
to install them and warns of the costs required to make the panels fit.  

I think the problems associated with the aftermarket products are here to stay
and that's the way it's going to be when restoring these cars.

Steve Dietrich
  S/E PA
    71 442 W30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 20:21:24 EST
From: SRDIET <SRDIET@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Sandblasting

In a message dated 98-01-07 17:00:50 EST, you write:

<< I'd like to do a little sandblasting to fix a some rust in the trunklid lip
and
 lower fenders on my 70 Cutlass and other small jobs in the future........>>

Hans,

  Beware, just don't fill up the blaster with playsand and start blasting away
@ your sheet metal.  The heat generated during the blasting process will warp
the panels and give you more headaches than it's worth.  Media such as
plastic, shells Etc. will be less likely to warp the panels.  On my latest
project I sent everything out to a professional media blaster who specializes
in auto restoration work.  For the costs it was worth it. (see below for
costs).  For the small parts I purchased a blast cabinet from TIP.  This was
the best investment I could have made.

My blasting costs to date :
Frame & susp. parts - Media blast, epoxy prime and coat with imron = $ 650.00
Body - Media blast, etching prime on sheet metal, epoxy prime and coat with
imron  
           underside = $ 750.00
Doors, fenders, trunk lid, conv. top frame, wheels - Media blast, etching
prime on  
           sheet metal = $ 750.00  (this equals to about around $ 100.00 a
part)

The parts came back rust free,  no warping, primed and ready for final body
work.  The frame came back ready to assemble and the blaster lifted the body
off the frame and did a great job of blasting and painting on the underside.

Steve Dietrich
  S/E PA
    71 442 W30 Conv.* 

ll parts

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 20:23:37 EST
From: SRDIET <SRDIET@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass Supreme For Sale

In a message dated 98-01-07 17:05:12 EST, you write:

<<eez, i ran across a '70-'72 cutlass a few weeks ago in the backyard of my
 brother in law's house.  his mother somehow got it back there when the
company
 she works for repo'd it and didnt have enough room to store it.  so its been
 sitting back there for aobut 2 years now.  they drove it in and it looks
 pretty darn good!!  still has the rally rims on it and tires.  its yellow
with
 a black vynle top.  350 engine, also.  i think she would take $100 for that
 car!!  so im thinkin maybe ill just give it to her.   >>



Quick, phone number and location please .................

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 20:41:14 -0800
From: WB3KJG Larry Polesnak <bullets@sgi.net>
Subject: Looking for  #1962 Oldsmobile Centennial Plaque

Hi everyone, I am trying to see if someone has the Centennial Plaque
#1962.. I have Plaque #1960,if someone has this and doesn't mind trading
I will Pay all the shipping charges..Thank You Larry Polesnak
         6    2    S    T    A    R    F     I    R    E
- -- 
                /\__________________/\_________________/\
           /\__/Amateur Radio Station  WB3KJG  ARES,RACES\__/\   
      /\__/Skywarn/ 1O1O# 459OO /BreezeShooters Number 87-279 \__/\    
     / BreezeShooters web site   http://www.users.sgi.net/~wolfie/ \
    / 1962 STARFIRE"http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/downs/6250/" \ 
   -------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 20:42:52 -0500
From: "John Richmond" <richmond@tir.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: HEI Conversion - Again/Still

The module might be bad. When the module goes bad
nothing happens.
The module is the black part under the rotor.

John Richmond
richmond@tir.com   or   jwr10@chrysler.com
Warren, MI
72 442/455
 

- ----------
> From: M&D Gillespie <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: HEI Conversion - Again/Still
> Date: Wednesday, January 07, 1998 12:36 PM
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
> To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Wednesday, January 07, 1998 5:53 AM
> Subject: UNBOUNCE: HEI Conversion - Again/Still
> 
> 
> Lloyd Ferguson wrote:
> >From memory, there should be a metal strap one end of which is one of
> the
> >terminals on the connector which comes up from the module and the
> other has
> >a hole in it which lines up with one of the mounting screws in the
> coil
> >(the same screw which has the ground wire under it
> <snip>
> 
> Thanks Lloyd, you were right about the ground strap. I had to go to
> the Junqe yarde to get one. It's a discontinued part and the parts
> stores don't have them either. Lots of fun in the rain. Ok, so i took
> a complete cap because I was missing the dust cover. I also got the
> conector plug too, (all for $5). Amazing, the dust cover has stamped
> into it, where to make the connections. It's now back together exactly
> like the one from the yard, but still no spark at the plugs.
> Since I was cranking it over without the ground strap, and I did see a
> spark from the vicinity of the distributor, is it possible that I blew
> something? the HEI module maybe? grrrrr!!!
> 
> Mick Gillespie
> 69 Cutlass S convertible
> OCA# 29770
> mgillespie@sprynet.com
> http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 17:00:45 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Side Marker Lites

Daniel A. Gulino wrote:
> 
> Maybe yours was built with parts left over from '67?  :)

I don't know, however, the frame on my car has a creation date of
October 1967 though. :)


Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 20:46:13 -0500
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Red fender wells

At 12:32 AM 1/7/98 -0500, you wrote:
Ulysses

        Yes you can re-die them and make them look new again. I used a GM
dye to do this. I have sent the can to a friend to have him see if he can
duplicate it. The stuff hasn't been around for a long time.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts


>The question of the day is:
>
>Can you re-dye the 71 Olds 442 W-30 red inner fender wells and have them
>come out looking reasonably like the originals, or should I leave them
>looking faded
>
>- Ulysses
>- Master-Stile@worldnet.att.net
>- 71 Cutlass S
>- 85 Indy Calais 500
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 17:05:01 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Original Dies(was: Panel controvery)

CRuper1 wrote:
> 
> I'm interested to find out from some of you, where this panel goes to on
> the original car, and where the replacements re supposed to cover.

From what I understand the replacements should go from the rear of the
car
to the door jamb.


Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 19:45:46 -0600
From: "Samuel E. Johnson, Jr" <cutlass403@ameritech.net>
Subject: Ignition

Mallory or MSD. Which is better for the ignition system.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 20:54:35 -0500
From: "John Richmond" <richmond@tir.com>
Subject: Detroit Auto Show web site list (Corrected list)

 You Guys asked for a list of web sites for the North American
International
 Auto Show. This is a list of the sites I have found.
 
 http://www.autochannel.com/cybercast/detroitautoshow98/index.html?EVENTS
 http://www.auto.com
 http://www.wxyzcars.com
 http://www.detnews.com/AUTOS/
 http://www.carpoint.msn.com/autoshow98
 http://www.dadanet.com/naiashome
 
 Have fun, I have spent a few hours looking at these the past few nights.
 I plan on going to the show Saturday with my video camera, hope to
 get some good shots and maybe again later next week with some friends.
 
 For those of you who don't live in the Detroit area, the NAIAS is all this
 town talks about for two weeks.
 
 John Richmond
 richmond@tir.com   or   jwr10@chrysler.com
 Warren, MI
 72 442/455
 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 17:16:51 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: brothers

COUPE KING wrote:
> 
> Also, finding a good used qtr is nearly impossible, and I'm looking for
> them ,and I'm in sunny, dry, SoCal.

You got that right!

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 17:19:35 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Panel controvery

Hi all,

No I am not trying to start up another controvery, however, I went by
to check the car out and brought along my rear side marker to make sure
it fit.  Guess what?  It didn't.  Little work to get it fit though so
shouldn't be too bad.  Just FYI.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 21:12:45 -0500
From: MROTHE <MROTHE@prodigy.net>
Subject: '73-up Weatherstripping

Someone a short time back asked about parts for mid-70's Cutlass. 
Metro-Moulded has just finished making all the '73-'87 weatherstripping
(except T-top).  Just thought interested parties would want to know. 
And I know Auto Decals Unlimited has mid-70's 442 decals, as well as
Stencils and Stripes. 

You can call Metro-Moulded at 1-800-878-2237.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 21:26:20 EST
From: Oldsparts <Oldsparts@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  Yes we do install them

 Yes-we have used the quarters sucessfully on three different occasions.  In
the last several years, we have sold over 600 pairs  (well, 1,200 panels-some
people only buy one side like Chris)  without a previous complaint.

One thing not  publicly mentioned about this issue is that Chris's car had
frame damage that required repair on that same side.  Usually, when you have
crash damage bad enough to require frame repair (however minor), other
internal substructure damage is almost always present.  We have only used
these panels on rust repair.  We have not used them on crash repair-nor would
I recommend it-better to bite the bulet and go with NOS or another car to
restore.  They do require trimming for use on converts-not a big problem-
reference Peters comments.

Using an NOS quarter, that includes a full door and trunk jamb,  one would
typically remove the crashed panel, and then straighten the rest of the car
until it fits the NOS panel, then install the panel.  In short, you make the
rest of the car fit the NOS panel.

Using a reproduction quarter, without a full door and trunk jamb, you simply
don't have this luxury.  Instead of making the car fit the panel you pretty
much have to make the panel fit the car-not too tough with rust repair-more
complicated with crash damage.  You simply do not have the full set of factory
reference points to work from that you have with a complete, straight from the
GM dies NOS quarter.   People use the reproduction panels all the time on
collision damage, but the best solution for collision damage thats into the
frame is NOS sheetmetal.

Hope this clarifies some of the confusion. If you require more specific info,
call me direct.

Thanks,
Steve Kenny
Brothers Automotive Products
www.oldsparts.com
800-442-PART

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1046
*********************************

