To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1094


oldsmobile-digest     Tuesday, February 10 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1094



Re: Intake Manifold Gasket (was Re: Oil Pan Gasket Replacement)
Re: Oil Pan Gasket Replacement
Re: 76' Production totals
My Car
Re: Intake Manifold Gasket (was Re: Oil Pan Gasket Replacement)
Re: Boxed Lower Control Arms
Re: '66 W-30 scale model
Re: window tint
Re: WEATHERSTRIPPING
73 Delta 88 for sale
70's Omega 350 coupe for sale
UNBOUNCE: 307 Timing
UNBOUNCE: Lucille... RIP
RIP Lucille
Re: Lighting Rods in a 72
Re: 70's Omega 350 coupe for sale
Re: Lansing Video
Re: 68 442 400 Stove wanted!
Re: 69 conv. antenna pcs, misc stuffs
Bye for now
Delta Adoption
Re: '66 W-30 scale model
Re: Oil Pan Gasket Replacement
Re: ? for a Michigan OCA member
Re: Motor mounts
Re: tall valve covers /w alt. bracket???
Re: 68 442 400 Stove wanted!
Re: Lighting Rods in a 72
Re: Lansing Video
71 442 Convertible
Re: Oil Pan Gasket Replacement
Re: about milling
Re: WTD: Air Cleaner - Rochester 4GC Carb
Re: Header debate (blackjacks)
'68 Air cleaner Silkscreening (was:Re: 68 442 400 Stove wanted!
Option Codes: HELP!
Re: 71 442 Convertible
Re: COPS!!!!!
Re: 76' Production totals
Re: Shake, rattle, and slap. (Kinda long but please help)
Re: 307 Timing
RE: 66-442 tail light bezels
Re: 76' Production totals
paging Robert Schinkel
Re: 68 442 400 Stove wanted!
Re: Wires ?
Re: Shake, rattle, and slap. (Kinda long but please help)
Re: 68 442 400 Stove wanted!
Re: '66 W-30 scale model
One thing to note... (Re: window tint (long))
Re: cylinder ridge
Re: Option Codes: HELP!
Re: COPS!!!!!
Re: window tint
fading emblem
non-olds, other lists.
Re: COPS!!!!!
Re: idle problems-72 cutlass
Re: fading emblem
WHAT A LONG, STRANGE TRIP IT'S BEEN...

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 21:29:57 -0800
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Intake Manifold Gasket (was Re: Oil Pan Gasket Replacement)

Jim Hurd wrote:

> Am I going to cause any harm by continuing to drive it untill I have time to
> pull it apart (spring break/summer)?
>

No harm, as long as you don't let the coolant level get low.

> I replaced a manifold gasket on my '79 260, that was pretty much straight
> foward.  Are there any tips/tricks I need to now before attempting this?
> TIA
>
> Jim H.
> '87 Salon

Yes, it's just as straightforwards.  I replaced the manifold gasket on my '79
260 before doing my 307 too (I notice a trend... both have AL intakes...).
Exactly the same, except more stuff to move out of the way (all that 
electronics
and emissions stuff).

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 11:44:48 -0500
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Gasket Replacement

At 11:30 AM 2/9/98 -0500, you wrote:
>leak if the cost of replacing lost oil over the course of one year exceeds
>the price of the repair, or if you're going to be tearing into the engine
>anyway. There are very few leaks that a $12 case of oil in the trunk won't
>solve...

   Or, just think of the oil leak as a self-renewing undercoat. <grin>

__________________________
>Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu


- --> Bob Valentine
- --> ravalent@liii.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 01:00:16 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: 76' Production totals

Trevor Lee wrote:
>
> Thank you very much, Rob.  I'm not DESPERATE for the book, but I'll keep my
eye > open.

I saw it in my local Super Crown for 30 bucks.  I'm sure other Super Crowns 
have
it if you're interested.

+---------------------------------------------------------------+
|__    ________|
|\ \  / __  __/Jason Adcock|
| \ \/ / / /CS Major, Virginia Tech|
|  \  / / /mailto:jadcock@vt.edu|
|   \/ /_/http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/|
||
+---------------------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 21:54:40 -0800 (PST)
From: Guido Cameli <gcameli@yahoo.com>
Subject: My Car

Hi, I have a 1987 Cutlass Supreme with a 305.  Do you know how many
Cutlass' were built in '87 and '88?  If not, do you know where I can
get this information.  I would like to know how many were built with
specific options.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Guido




_________________________________________________________
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Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 00:55:39 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Intake Manifold Gasket (was Re: Oil Pan Gasket Replacement)

Jim Hurd wrote:
>
> Am I going to cause any harm by continuing to drive it untill I have time to
> pull it apart (spring break/summer)?

I don't think so.  Mine was like that for a while (for all I know).  It ran
pretty warm for a while and I replced the thermostat.  That helped a little and
then a mechanic pointed out that my water pump was leaking.  After I had the
whole front of the thing torn apart, I found out that it wasn't the pump after
all, but that driver's side from manifold gasket.  HOT under-hood air was
leaking in and hurting the efficiency of the cooling system.  Mine didn't 
really
loose much fluid.  I flushed the whole thing within a year of first purchasing
the car anyway, so I couldn't tell if fluid was really leaking or not.

> I replaced a manifold gasket on my '79 260, that was pretty much straight
> foward.  Are there any tips/tricks I need to now before attempting this?

I'm not sure.  I took it to my favorite garage (Dranesville Auto for those of
you in the N.VA area) and for around 150 bucks they replced it.  It's been 
great
since.  The WHOLE top of the engine would have to come off and I wasn't 
prepared
to take that on--with the Cutlass being my only means of transportation.

Good luck.  I'm sure for an experienced engine guy like yourself, it'll be 
cake!
8-)

+---------------------------------------------------------------+
|__    ________|
|\ \  / __  __/Jason Adcock|
| \ \/ / / /CS Major, Virginia Tech|
|  \  / / /mailto:jadcock@vt.edu|
|   \/ /_/http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/|
||
+---------------------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 98 1:09:38 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: Boxed Lower Control Arms

At 11:06 2/9/98 -0500, you wrote:
>> Anyone willing to part with a set of G.M.boxed lower control arms please let
>> me know, also a rear sway bar.
>> Al Frey
>> alpha1@airmail.net
>
>What are boxed control arms anyways?  How are they different than regular
>arms??  I've just always wondered this and never took the opportunity to ask!
>:)
>

       The reason they were boxed is because with enough torque you can
twist them up if they are the standard open channel.

TO: AL FREY,  I tried to e-mail you privately about a set I have but it got
bounced back               to me.  You can get back to me at the address below.


     Glenn Connors      gpc442@buffnet.net
     '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 01:33:49 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: '66 W-30 scale model

In a message dated 98-02-09 16:12:29 EST, you write:

<< Last fall I picked up a couple of the Lindberg '67 442 W-30's for my
 sons thinking it was the closest we'd ever get to our '66 [not a W-30 :)].
  >>


hey, do you have the ªs and all for the '67 442 models?  id really like one.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 01:38:33 -0500
From: Gerald Hughes <ghughes@hughesconsulting.com>
Subject: Re: window tint

Hey BIGJERMES,
If you're pulling that tint off because of the cops...hold up a sec.
What state do you live in?  I doubt it is illegal on the back windows.

Gerald Hughes

BIGJERMES@aol.com wrote:
>
> hey, is there anything i should worry about when i take my tint off my back
> glass?  it has the defrost on it, and im scared it might tear the traces off.
> the tint has been on there for about 2 years now.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 01:45:44 -0500
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: WEATHERSTRIPPING

At 02:50 PM 2/9/98 EST, you wrote:
        That's all we sell. It is some very good stuff. Some of the other
weather stripping is too hard and you have to slam doors and realign all the
glass after you install it. I've been in there plant ans seen them make it.
They have a very good product.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts
(757)474-0869


>
>            Has anyone ever bought any weatherstripping from Metro Moulded
>Parts (Super Soft Sponge Weatherstripping).  If so how good are thier
>products.  I'm looking to buy weatherstripping for my ' 87 Cut. Sup.  Thanks
>in advance
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 02:54:15 -0500
From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Subject: 73 Delta 88 for sale

One 73 Delta 88,smooth running 455,nice shape.
Email me for details or call (914) 726-3566,ask for Erik

sigh,dont want to part with it,but i cant afford it a nymore and i wont ahve
it go to scrap.

email me at :
ainode@frontiernet.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 03:33:12 -0500
From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Subject: 70's Omega 350 coupe for sale

Two door Omega coupe,nice shape,two door 350,runs drives.
Call or email for details.(914) 726-3566 ask for Erik


or email me at:
ainode@frontiernet.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 06:49:14 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 307 Timing

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:Thomas and Jodie Martin <jmartin@netwurx.net>
Subject: Re: 307 Timing

I had a terrible ping with my 85 Cutlass 307.  My dad fought it for years, new
EGR, 180 thermostat, cleaned carbon from pistons (pour thru junk, works good),
etc.

Only thing that helped a bit was 93 oct, and retarded timing.  I bought the
car from my dad April 97, and tackled it head on.  I was not paying $1.40+ for
92 oct!  Especially when My dad bought it from Olds it did not need it.

I finally removed the carb, and ran a long 3/8 drill bit down the EGR jet
extensions.  At first I was scared to damage the jet itself.  So I removed
them.  Saw the carbon, and ran it thru.  Make sure when you run it down it
goes ALL the way thru.  The carbon builds up pretty bad.  If it is bad, run a
piano wire from the EGR valve to the EGR jet extensions.  Make sure it is all
clear.  This engine is VERY sensitive to EGR flow.  You will make more power
with this engine WITH EGR than without.

The tubes at the top (near the carb) were spotless.  So remove them if you are
questionable.  I have heard this area of the intake is prone to getting weak
and breaking, so inspect carefully before you crank with a socket and breaker
bar.

Since I have had no pinging at all.  This cured it, and I was able to run 87
oct and full timing (even bumped up a tad).

Good luck!

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 06:52:22 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Lucille... RIP

Clayton sent this from his other address... forwarding.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:<the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Lucille... RIP

Well all... Lucille got really really hot the other night... and it
was very very cold out (prob. abt. 20 or colder) and well... I've now
got a cracked block :*(

Body's just not in good enough shape to try to piece her back
together. I'll be getting a Caddiraft to replace her for the time
being and then I'll work on building me another g-body... or pref. an
older Cutlass or Toro.  I'm getting the caddi (slight body damage to
d-side fender, grille and hood) for a "friend" price.  I'm paying 500
bucks for it.  I know you all probably aren't particularly interested
in Caddy's, but here's the specs.  She's a 1973 Caddiraft Sedan
DeVille, yellow :)
BBlock... prob. a 500 with 25k miles on it, brand new (less than 5k
miles) quadrajet on it (and I've got a newly rebuilt holly sittin at
home too).  Comes with spare motor and tranny (same year, same size...
will probably eventually go in G-body).

If there's something that any of you need off Lucille... that I don'
particularly feel the need to save, your welcome to it for postage and
a fair price... let you guys get first dibs... except for the bucket
seats, alt. which are already promised, and tranny, d-shafe and
rear-end which I'm keeping.  She's a '84 Cutlass Supreme, buckets and
console.  All body panels bad except passy fender, trunk lid.  Decent
rear bumper (no rust, dent in center).  You guys probably wouldn't be
interested int anything that big though... interior is burgundy...
dash is perfect, console is decent, back seat good.  If you have any
specific ques. about any parts, just send me a mail... there's motor
parts too I reckon <sniff, sniff>.  Motors a '74 Olds 350 4bbl.  I'll
prob. be keeping intake, heads (assuming their still good).  I'll be
keeping the radiator, built tranny, 3.73 rear end etc.

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu
the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com




_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 04:04:33 PST
From: "Dick Henderson" <dickhenderson@hotmail.com>
Subject: RIP Lucille

My condolences to you...
It is always sad to see someone leave the family... *sniff

To everyone else: Hey! I just joined up today. I am the proud owner of
an 82 Calais. I love it!!!

Check out my new website: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/9000

It's gonna be good!

Richard


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 07:20:54 -0500
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: Lighting Rods in a 72

What engine r u running your 700r4 behind. if olds did u have to use adapter
plate


Butch

AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com wrote:

> Anyone put these babies in a 70-72 using the stock console. I have a 700R4 in
> my 72 that i cant manualy shift using the stock his/hers. Can only get it 
down
> to second.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 07:27:20 -0500
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: 70's Omega 350 coupe for sale

HI what year and how much .  thanks  Butch

Erik Gertsen wrote:

> Two door Omega coupe,nice shape,two door 350,runs drives.
> Call or email for details.(914) 726-3566 ask for Erik
>
> or email me at:
> ainode@frontiernet.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 03:56:17 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Lansing Video

Doug,

>             Our mail server was down all weekend, so I didn't receive
> anything posted over the last three days.  If anyone tried to contact
> me about the video, please re-post.

Do you want only checks or cana person use a credit card?

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 03:58:43 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: 68 442 400 Stove wanted!

Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com wrote:

> The air cleaner assembly is in phenomenal shape...the "OG type on the
> side is silk screened and PERFECT!!!

What does the later part mean?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 04:03:47 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: 69 conv. antenna pcs, misc stuffs

Chris Brown Witt wrote:

> Runs & drives. Crusty. Even has that rare "Deluxe" steering wheel!

Ok, this reference to the steering wheel is a joke, right?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 05:08:09 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Bye for now

     I'll be off the list for a while.....it's too much to try to keep
up here at work...but I will have a home PC soon. I'm keeping this
email address. Send me some email sometime!

===
John Pajak                            JSPajak@rocketmail.com
Lexington Park, Maryland  HTTP://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

65 Delta 88 2dr    70 Cutlass S 2dr       72 Cutlass conv
66 Toronado deluxe 70 Cutlass S W31       72 Delta 88 conv
69 Cutlass S 2dr   70 442 W30 conv        72 442 W30 conv
70 Cutlass S 2dr   71 Cutlass Supreme 2dr 86 Cutlass Supreme




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 19:57:06 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Delta Adoption

Chris Chris - don't tempt me like that!!


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'64 Cutlass, '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '69 Toronado, '72 Vista
Cruiser (twin hauler)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com

My Web-Page-----:  http://server.exo.com/~jht/olds/

Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Glass Line's Bulletin Board: http://server.exo.com/~jht/olds/oldsbbs/index.cgi

Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://server.exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 98 08:22 EST
From: turley@symplex.com (Mike Turley)
Subject: Re: '66 W-30 scale model

> hey, do you have the ªs and all for the '67 442 models?  id really like one.


The Lindberg '67 442 is kit ª 72171, and the phone number on the box is
419 536-8351 (that's a Toledo OH number).  Maybe they could list a supplier
in your area.  I see other Lindberg kits in Toys-R-Us and K-Mart, however I
got mine at a local hobby store.

Mike Turley
turley@symplex.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 08:46:31 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Gasket Replacement

Jason;
According to the manuals, it's a major ordeal to replace the pan gasket.
The engine has to be lifted at least 3 inches - that means disconnecting it
from the transmission. If you REALLY need it, $200 isn't a hose job.

Dave Cullen
85 Delta-88 Royale

- ----------
> From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
> To: Oldsmobile Email List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Oil Pan Gasket Replacement
> Date: Monday, February 09, 1998 12:01 AM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 08:48:37 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: ? for a Michigan OCA member

My OCA membership took about 3 weeks to be confirmed. The newsletter comes
out around the first of the month.

drc


- ----------
> From: RC Hellebuyck <mrhell@sprynet.com>
> To: Olds e-mail List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: ? for a Michigan OCA member
> Date: Monday, February 09, 1998 11:14 PM
>
> Just joined OCA and live about 1-1/2 hours from Lansing.  Two questions
for
> any OCA member living in MI:
>
> 1.)  How long does it usually take to receive a response to my membership
> application?
>
> 2.)  What part of the month do you receive the JWO newsletter?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> ================================================
> RC Hellebuyck
> 1971 4-4-2 covt.>      See them and 44 other Olds' at:
> 1995 Achieva S  >      http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell/
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 08:58:42 EST
From: Knightvd@aol.com
Subject: Re: Motor mounts

I would also be interested in this information.  I swapped a 350 for a 455 in
my 71' Cutlass.  Didn't move the frame mounts, used motor mounts from the
parts store for a 455 and everything lined up, but it seems like the motor
should sit an inch or so lower.  Also had to "reconfigure" the fan shroud for
the 455 with stock clutch fan.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 08:59:35 EST
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: tall valve covers /w alt. bracket???

In a message dated 98-02-10 01:20:12 EST, you write:

<< I'm bored of my nasty looking stock vavle covers, and didn't like the
chrome
 ones when I had them.  there are cool looking "tall" Oldsmobile valve covers
 (I think Mondello has them), but they don't work with the A/C and alternator
 brackets that hug the v. covers.  I took out the A/C no prob., but the
 alternator bracket on the other hand...  It is mounted by two other
 brackets, but is that enough to hold it steady?  Anyone run their alternator
 with the rear bracket removed?

 -greg
  >>
I cut up my bracket to fit the tall MOROSO covers it does vibrate slightly.
You can add another bracket down to one of the bolts on the headers if you
have a welder. I never added the bracket had no reason to up to this point.
Its been that way for about 8 years.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 08:10:54 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Re: 68 442 400 Stove wanted!

Chris,

I've never seen this before but, where there has always been the sticker
with the emmisions text, mine is silkscreened in white paint and starts
with the letters "OG" like on the transmission tag etc...

Does anybody else have an Air cleaner with this text painted on it?

I plan on carefully cleaning the Air Cleaner assembly up and getting the
decortative 442 plate for the top. I just need the exhaust manifold
stove...

Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 09:07:25 EST
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: Lighting Rods in a 72

In a message dated 98-02-10 07:24:07 EST, you write:

<< What engine r u running your 700r4 behind. if olds did u have to use
adapter plate


 Butch >>
Almost hate to tell you guys. I know how some of you are about swapping an
olds out for a chevy. But i guess the cat is out of the bag. Its a 88 iroc
motor w/ TPI , paxton supercharger and nitros in a 72 442 conv. Looks stock
even have the AC hooked up. Currently polishing the TPI unit to match the
paxton. Working on the cruise control next. And i have this bug about the
lightning rods if i can make them look stock.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 09:11:04 EST
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Lansing Video

Hey Doug!
    Got to have the apparent "Killer" video, man. What's the process?
                                                               Ron Forsee
                                                               65 442-Meister

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 09:17:33 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: 71 442 Convertible

Howdy List Members

I found a decent 442 convertible the car was stripped to bare metal and has
had a fresh paint.  As far as I have been able to examine the body is
perfect.  This Car is some what complete but still missing some small
parts.

Problem I have is I can't turn down an opportunity to buy it BUT I also
can't keep it so I want to see if there is anyone on the list who would be
interested in a 71 442 convertible.  (some assembly required)

The guy buddy has a 70 cutlass conv. this is the car I want even though it
would only be a parts car for me.  It does have some parts that I really
need (cruise control)

So I will try to describe this 442 and see if any one would like it.
Fresh paint job in charcoal gray
Has the 442 grills
Sport steering wheel
Posi
Manual Steering
Manual Drum Brakes (yuk)
Front and rear sway bars
decent front bumper (no rear)
New black top
Black bucket interior
Slap stick shifter and console (he has these in the garage I was not able
to se them yet so I can't tell what he mean by slap stick - lets hope dual
gate eh!)
All glass is out  but he has it all
The engine is wrong but the tranny is correct

I will be going to see the car tomorrow morning to really check it out and
give a better description.  Now for the main thing PRICE - All this could
be yours for just $2250 any takers????

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
1970 442 Convertible
1970 Cutlass W- 31 4 gear
1970 Rallye 350
1970 Cutlass Convertible ( 13.4 et)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 09:36:45 EST
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Gasket Replacement

In a message dated 98-02-09 01:04:11 EST, you write:

<<
 Okay, my real question:  is this on any real concern?  I'd take it to my
usual
 garage to have it done, and if I had extra money, I'd to it because it does
look
 like it's leaking, but I don't think it's as bad as $200!  Has anyone else
had
 problems in this area?  Again, I will get it done if it looks like to be a
major
 problem, but it's been this way for 3 years at least, and no one's ~ever~
said
 anything.  Is this shop just yanking my chain?

 Thanks for sticking with this long post!
 Jason Adcock >>

First, I'd make sure you do need it.  Are you sure it's leaking?  If it is, it
might be putting oil on the driveway, but doubtful since there shouldn't be
that much oil in the pan.  It is possible to have a leak that's running down
the engine/pan area while driving.  The thing to make sure of is that the oil
is not from you missing the fill spout, and running down the motor, or from
the front seal area of the intake.  I'd be a little skeptical if you aren't
losing any oil over the length of time to do an oil change (3K miles, or
whatever).  Even if you have to top it off some during that time frame, you
may not have to be concerned (normal usage).

In terms of changing the gasket, I've done it before like this.  I'm sure a
car place will charge $200 for it, but realize what they charge in the first
place.  I've done it by jacking the engine up from the motor mounts (only, no
disconnecting the trans, or anything else), and pulling the pan.  It doesn't
need to be up much, and another thing that makes it easier, is to make sure
the first pistons (ª1, and 2), are at TDC, as this puts the throw of the crank
up out of the way.  I actually didn't change the oil pan gasket, but was
changing the rear main seal, but, of course, I had to change the pan in the
process.  It didn't take terribly long to do, but you have to let the oil
drain for quite some time (try to get as much out of the pan at first), and
then wipe everything of after pulling the pan.  It's no fun being under the
car, when it's dripping all over you....

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 09:37:06 EST
From: Knightvd@aol.com
Subject: Re: about milling

In a message dated 98-02-10 01:14:19 EST, you write:

<< Shave 0.030" off each intake surface. Don't let the mechanics start
multiplying
 by some Chevy number to get the "right cut"- Olds heads are 90 degree
surfaces,
 so intake cut == head cut. You CAN also cut the block rail seal surface of
the
 intake, but you'd be better off to just eliminate the rubber or cork strip
and
 seal w/ a bead of silly-cone. Should you choose to cut, Rotten, the amount of
 said cut would be sqrt(2) or 1.414 times the cut off the intake surfaces. I
 think. either that or 1/1.414= .707- the machinist should know. >>

Thanks Chris,

I replied earlier and wasn't sure about the amount to take off the intake.
I'm pretty sure the amount to be taken off of the bottom is x*1.414

Vince Knight
71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 06:48:01 PST
From: "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: WTD: Air Cleaner - Rochester 4GC Carb

>From oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca Mon Feb  9 21:29:45 1998
>Received: by chebucto.ns.ca id <91569-18904>; Tue, 10 Feb 1998 01:23:05
- -0400
>Received: from NO-IDENT-SERVICE@mail.utexas.edu (port 3204
[128.83.126.1]) by chebucto.ns.ca with SMTP id <91202-12487>; Mon, 9 Feb
1998 17:33:32 -0400
>Received: (qmail 26317 invoked by uid 0); 9 Feb 1998 21:32:52 -0000
>Received: from dial-45-86.ots.utexas.edu (HELO ?128.83.112.118?)
(128.83.112.118)
>  by mail.utexas.edu with SMTP; 9 Feb 1998 21:32:52 -0000
>Message-Id: <l03102801b10523a65a8f@[128.83.128.147]>
>Mime-Version: 1.0
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>Date:Mon, 9 Feb 1998 15:25:34 -0600
>To:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>From:Dominic Gomez <ngomez@mail.utexas.edu>
>Subject: WTD: Air Cleaner - Rochester 4GC Carb
>Sender: oldsmobile-owner@ccn.cs.dal.ca
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>The Rochester 4GC carb on my 1965 Olds Ninety Eight has a diameter of
4" or
>so. The standard 5 1/8" diameter chrome air cleaners don't fit this
carb, I
>imagine they fit Quadrajets and Holleys. I want to keep my original
single
>snorkel setup, and buy an air cleaner from any car equipped with a
>Rochester 4GC and cut out the midsection, making my own open element
air
>cleaner. That way I am preserving the Olds red color and great Ultra
High
>Compression decal on top. I like a nicely detailed engine over a
chromed
>beast any day. The air cleaner can be in any condition, it will be cut
up
>any way. Let me know what you have!
>Nick
>
>
>i got 1 on my 75 delta 88, its rusty


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 09:56:16 EST
From: StafRT007@aol.com
Subject: Re: Header debate (blackjacks)

I forgot to mention all the trouble I had installing my headers (hooker super
comps).  I also had to tilt the engine side to side on a cherry picker, but
that wasn't that bad as I had just put the engine in anyway.  I aslo had to
relocate the brake propotioning valve to keep it from getting fryed.  It's a
tight fit but it can be done.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 11:17:19 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: '68 Air cleaner Silkscreening (was:Re: 68 442 400 Stove wanted!

On Tue, 10 Feb 1998 Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com wrote:
> I've never seen this before but, where there has always been the sticker
> with the emmisions text, mine is silkscreened in white paint and starts
> with the letters "OG" like on the transmission tag etc...
>
> Does anybody else have an Air cleaner with this text painted on it?

My '68 350 has the same painted info instead of a sticker. When I
refinished it I just masked off the area and painted around it. Looks
great.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 07:22:18 PST
From: "Dick Henderson" <dickhenderson@hotmail.com>
Subject: Option Codes: HELP!

Can someone help me with the following option codes for my 82 Cutlass
Calais?

AR9, A5J, BX2, B79, B81, B85, C65, C87, D1A, E6E, GH2, JM5, J41, KM7,
K35, K73, NK1, NM4, NM5, NM6, NY8, N70, N91, QVJ, TL1, T46, U19, U27,
U29, U58, U64, VD4, VD5, VP2, VP5, V2E, W84, YT1, YT9, Y71, Y78, 479,
49M, 6JA, 7JA, 8ST, 9ST?????

Any help would be greatly appreciated...

Thanks
Richard


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 10:28:55 -0500
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@mail.cvn.net>
Subject: Re: 71 442 Convertible

Yep ...

Interested for sure

Ken Swick
66 442 post coupe
69 Cutlass S
77 Ch*vy Malibu
70 Ch*vy PU X 4

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 10:22:43 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: COPS!!!!!

>well, i cant represent all americans or even all car guys, but i honestly
hate
>cops.  ever since i swapped out my 260 for a 350, i have had 6 blue lights.
 [snip]
>and the let all the other peaple go.  why didnt i ever get pulled over during
>the 3 years i drove it with my 260 in there?  i drive absolutely the same
as i
>always have.  boy, i am really dissapointed with cops right now.

Hmmm, don't think they can read the casting numbers from their police
cruisers, so I'd have to attribute it to bad luck (and the fact that you
are 19 and it sounds like a hot-rod...).

But, c'mon, you replaced a 260 with a 350, and you still drive *exactly*
the same? Not at _all_ quicker from a stop? Your tires have never let out
even a slight "chirp"? Boy, if I were 19 again and had a 350 in a G-body,
I'm quite sure that the rate my tires transferred rubber to the pavement
would triple or quadruple! After all, that's the whole purpose of an engine
swap, isn't it? :)

I suppose we ought to factor the price of "unsafe start" tickets into the
estimated costs of engine swaps...

But, don't be surprised to run across idiot cops; just as in any
profession, there are good and there are bad ones, and you seem to be
"lucky" enough to be meeting some bad ones. The only remedy to this kind of
attention is to drive a Hyundai (Korean for "You get what you pay for").
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 10:12:07 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 76' Production totals

>> Just for the record, "Setting the Pace" has complete production figures for
>> all years of Oldsmobiles in an Appendix, though the breakdown is by model,
>
>Thank you very much, Rob.  I'm not DESPERATE for the book, but I'll keep
my eye
>open.

Oh, if you saw it, you WOULD be desperate about it! It's a gorgeous
full-color hard-cover book that covers everything Oldsmobile (well, except
their overseas operations, like Australia, and their non-Lansing factories)
that you could imagine. Plus those production figures. And, best of all, it
costs all of $12! No, not a misprint; I guess they're trying to get rid of
them. Get yours NOW from Alpha One marketing. You may have to search the
archives for its address: I don't have it handy here in the office.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 10:34:44 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Shake, rattle, and slap. (Kinda long but please help)

>I am still having trouble with my olds,  here the story:
>
>'66 f85 with fresh rebuilt 330.  Only thing that is different is new cam and
>HC pistons.  It was bored .030 over and valve job and all that other suff
that
>comes with a complete rebuild.  Here's the problem:
>
>I istalled the motor hooked everything up without the exhaust.(just the open
>manifolds.  I was waiting to install the dist. cuz I hadn't a clue how to do
>it.  Well now I did it and its not good.  I have the distributer in right(as
>in correct to comp. stroke)(tried it both ways) I checked and double checked
>my plug wires to my chilton manual.  I got the car started at first and it
>would not stay running.  It cranked over real hard so I turned the dist. a
>little.  It started to smooth out but there is this realling loud slapping or
>knocking noise coming from my engine that sounds like a piston is hitting
>something (could be a rocker, rod, valve  I don't know)  Anyone have any
>ideas?  I also am only running 87 (I put in 2.5g of 110 but I'm sure it has
>not gotten to the carb yet) I am scared to let my engine run but I can't get
>it anywhere(like to get the exhaust on)

Well, that 87 won't help, but I doubt it's the problem.

Sounds like one of two problems; let's talk about the problem you don't
want first:

1) You've trashed a main or rod bearing. This is possible if you didn't
prelube the engine (glue a 5/16" socket to a long extension, and turn the
oil pump driveshaft until oil is coming from all the pushrods, rotating the
engine 1/4 turn to expose all the cross-drilled passages). Cranking the
engine over without the coil connected is a very poor second choice in this
situation; if you've got engine assembly lube on all the bearing surfaces,
there'd be a chance you didn't ruin everything, but for the $5 it costs to
get a spare 5/16" socket and extension, it's not worth the risk. Oh, and
you glue (or weld or locktite) the socket to the extension so that it
doesn't slip off and fall inside the engine, which means you'll have to
pull the pan to retrieve it, which is a royal pain since it might cause
that fresh oil-pan gasket you've got in there to rip... :(

It's also possible if you didn't get the clearances right on the bearings.
Did you assemble this yourself, or did a shop do it? How were the bearing
clearances checked, with a micrometer or plastigage? What's your oil pressure?

If this is the problem, then you've got to redo the bottom end. Let's hope
it's the next problem...

2) Valvetrain noise. Did you prime your lifters before you installed them?
(submerge them in oil, and depress the plunger until no more air bubbles
come out?) Until they pump up, they can make quite a racket! Is the new cam
you have ground on a reduced base-circle? If so, you will need longer
pushrods or an adjustable valvetrain; this is also the case if you've had a
valve-job done, which changes the height of the tip of the valve stem. If
you have any extra clearance in the valvetrain, it'll rock and rattle like
a bunch of rocks in a coffee can. Did you check for proper lifter preload
when you torqued your rocker pedestals down to 25 ft/lbs?

Let's hope it's a valvetrain problem; at least that's something you can fix
with the motor in the car.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 10:36:52 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 307 Timing

>I had a terrible ping with my 85 Cutlass 307.  My dad fought it for years,
new
 [snip]
>I finally removed the carb, and ran a long 3/8 drill bit down the EGR jet
>extensions.  At first I was scared to damage the jet itself.  So I removed
>them.  Saw the carbon, and ran it thru.  Make sure when you run it down it
>goes ALL the way thru.  The carbon builds up pretty bad.  If it is bad, run a
>piano wire from the EGR valve to the EGR jet extensions.  Make sure it is all
>clear.  This engine is VERY sensitive to EGR flow.  You will make more power
>with this engine WITH EGR than without.

Excellent advice, Tom; never even considered them plugging up! Put this one
in the FAQ!
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry       MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.execpc.com/~gkalkhof/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited 409/TH400

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 07:47:29 -0800 (PST)
From: Doro Pedroza <dpedroza@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: 66-442 tail light bezels

Many Thanks to Mike Turley and Jay Britt for information on the 66-442
tail light bezels.Will give B.LaPierre a call to see if he has a nice
set of bezels and get them replated.    Thanks Doro.  Chgo Il





_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 11:04:55 -0500
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: 76' Production totals

> Oh, if you saw it, you WOULD be desperate about it! It's a gorgeous
> full-color hard-cover book that covers everything Oldsmobile (well, except
> their overseas operations, like Australia, and their non-Lansing factories)
> that you could imagine. Plus those production figures. And, best of all, it
> costs all of $12! No, not a misprint; I guess they're trying to get rid of
> them. Get yours NOW from Alpha One marketing. You may have to search the
> archives for its address: I don't have it handy here in the office.
>
> HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!
> __________________________________________________________
> Bob Barry            MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

Ok then, Bob.  I'll look them up.   Thanx for the recommendation!
- --
Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
468 BigBlock '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
mailto:lee@mergetel.com
Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 08:15:12 -0800
From: "mr. coy d. arbogast" <coyster@earthlink.net>
Subject: paging Robert Schinkel

Robert I need you to call me on some parts that you have.
My work number is 702-361-5111 ext 230
or at home at 702-396-7485
My name is Coy
Thanks
- ----------
> From: Robert Schinkel <docbob@caninet.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: '76 production totals
> Date: Sunday, February 08, 1998 12:59 PM
>
> > From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: '76 production totals
> > Date: Sunday, February 08, 1998 12:09 PM
> >
> > Does ANYBODY out there have the production figures for the '76
> Cutlasses???  I'd
> > much appreciate it if someone could post it!  Thank you!  Have a good
> day.  :)
> > --
> > Trevor Lee (aka Screech), Owner - TL Tech
> > 468 BigBlock '76 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
> > http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/
> > mailto:lee@mergetel.com
> > Welland, Ontario, Canada
> >
> Cutlass S hardtop Coupe            -       59179
> Colonnade Hardtop Sedan          -       34994
> Cutlass Supreme hardtop Coupe -       186647
> Colonnade Hardtop Sedan          -       37112
>
>
> Hope these help you trevor
>
> Robert Schinkel
> docbob@caninet.com
> 1970 442 Convertible
> 1970 Cutlass W- 31 4 gear
> 1970 Rallye 350
> 1970 Cutlass Convertible ( 13.4 et)
>
> >

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 08:36:14 -0800
From: "Chris Sparks (Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: 68 442 400 Stove wanted!

Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com wrote:
>
> I've never seen this before but, where there has always been the sticker
> with the emmisions text, mine is silkscreened in white paint and starts
> with the letters "OG" like on the transmission tag etc...
>
> Does anybody else have an Air cleaner with this text painted on it?

Nope.  I have two 68 442s and the air cleaner are devoid of any painted
text.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 10:55:13 -0600
From: "Green, Andrew" <acg@datalogics.com>
Subject: Re: Wires ?

> Of course, I noticed more than one orange wire behind the dash.

Orange is the general-purpose hot-at-all-times circuit. It's usually
labeled something like CLOCK/LIGHTER on the fusebox. On some
cars I've found that the orange lead going to the lighter is a special
heavy-gauge type with some sort of heat-resistant insulation; cutting
into it with a knife is a major pain.

> BTW, I bought a replacement lighter, Victor brand, and it won't fit
> properly. Kind of annoying without having the fuzz-buster sitting on
> the dash...

I think you want to be looking for a Casco brand, right? (somebody...?)

As Mike Rothe said, yellow is the switched power feed for the
radio. You'll need to tap into an orange one if your aftermarket
stereo needs a memory connection to preserve clock or radio
preset memory. Later GM cars should have a second harness
connector back there somewhere with one or two connections
(I forget the colors but I think orange or brown) for that same
function on digital factory units.

You'll also need to locate a gray wire behind the dash for your
dial light on that factory unit.
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 12:10:46 EST
From: TERMO1L@aol.com
Subject: Re: Shake, rattle, and slap. (Kinda long but please help)

Bob

I had the entire thing done at the shop.  All I put on was the intake and
valve covers.  They told me everything was ready to go.  All I had to due was
run it for 15 min to break in the cam.  They said everything was already lubed
and ready.  Could they have not done some of those things?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 11:15:50 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Re: 68 442 400 Stove wanted!

>Nope.  I have two 68 442s and the air cleaner are devoid of any painted
>text.

Ask Greg B., he has one too! I think it's pretty cool, only problem is it's
Orange...motor is red with assorted splashes of chrome oh well!

Scott Wheeler
68 442 Conv
Dallas

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 12:25:07 EST
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Re: '66 W-30 scale model

In a message dated 98-02-09 16:12:29 EST, you write:

<<
 Last fall I picked up a couple of the Lindberg '67 442 W-30's for my
 sons thinking it was the closest we'd ever get to our '66 [not a W-30 :)].

 Well guess what, AMT/Ertl has just released a 1/25 scale '66 W-30.  I went
 down to my Hobby Shop last week to have them order me one, and their
 computer said they had already received one and sold it.  They have a few
 more on the way.

 Sorry I can't provide the kit number, or attest to its quality; but hey,
 just making another Olds is a step in the right direction.

 Mike Turley >>

I have one of the '67 versions from Lindberg, but it's been just sitting,
along with the '70 Testors 442 model also.  I've heard about the '66, but
haven't seen one yet (once I see one, I'll have one...:).  I'll be making the
trip out to Ertl in the near future, and I'm hoping I can find some of the
67's there (they have an outlet store in Dyersville, which sells "defective"
models at a discount price), to "stock up" on a few to "play with".

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 12:34:51 EST
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: One thing to note... (Re: window tint (long))

In a message dated 98-02-09 16:14:12 EST, you write:

<<
- --->Post snipped for content/length<-----
 This stuff is easy to put on yourself, I definately don't think it's worth
 the $200-300 some places charge.  The key is to have patience, a clean work
 area, a warm work area (the warmer the better) and the right tools.

 the first strip went on pretty good and then the temp. dropped a
 few degrees and the tint got all brittle, creased and ripped.  I ruined
 about $40 worth of tint that day.
 I hope this is of benefit to someone.

 Bill Reilly >>
 I think you found the reason why places charge $200 for a full-on decent job.
It can be alot of work, and all you have to do is screw up a little, and BANG,
you're out $40 since you have to buy more.  Yes, you can do it cheaper, and if
you take the time, etc., can do just as good a job, but if you screw up,
you'll also be fixing it.

Some may find that they are much happier spending the extra money, and that
way they can make sure it's done right or it gets re-done.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 12:57:35 EST
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Re: cylinder ridge

In a message dated 98-02-09 16:16:05 EST, you write:

<<
 I thought that the only purpose of a ridge-reamer was to remove the ridge
 so you could remove the pistons; I didn't realize that it was designed so
 that pistons could just be put back in there after the ridge was cut down.
 Is that what you meant? I'd imagine that any cylinder with a ridge would
 also have quite a bit of taper as well, but then again, I'm not a
 machinist, so I'm always interested in learning these things.
 __________________________________________________________
 Bob Barry >>

Well, that's really what they are used for.

Warning!
Don't pull pistons out w/out removing that ridge.  The rings will stick on the
ridge, and put pressure on the ring lands.  You will eventually crack the side
of the piston where the ring lands, and the skirt mate together.  This area is
weak (just look at the cross section).  I've done this before on a block I
bought which had a "disassembled" rod/piston assembly, and have broken a
piston in this manner (thing was trash anyways, so that was the reason why I
did it this way in the first place.

Now, with that said.  You can get a ridge along the top, and still be able to
use the bore with just a hone job.  It just depends on what you plan to do
with the motor.  Yes, there is taper on the walls when there is a ridge, and
the bore will be oversized (or at least tapered).

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 13:09:24 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Option Codes: HELP!

Dick Henderson wrote:
>
> Can someone help me with the following option codes for my 82 Cutlass
> Calais?

I'll do what I can.

AR9 -
A5J -
BX2 - Lower Body Side Moudlings
B79 -
B81 -
B85 - Body Side Mouldings
C65 - Air Conditioner (Temp-Matic)
C87 -
D1A -
E6E -
GH2 - 2.29 Rear Axle
JM5 -
J41 -
KM7 -
K35 - Probably Cruise Control?
K73 -
NK1 -
NM4 -
NM5 -
NM6 -
NY8 -
N70 -
N91 - Simulated Wire Wheel Discs
QVJ - Tire Code (Unlisted in my information)
TL1 -
T46 - Fiber Optic Light Monitor (On Front Fenders)

Sorry, I don't know the rest...

U19
U27
U29
U58
U64
VD4
VD5
VP2
VP5
V2E
W84
YT1
YT9
Y71
Y78
479
49M
6JA
7JA
8ST
9ST

Hope this helps.  Maybe someone else can fill in my blanks!  8-)

+---------------------------------------------------------------+
|__    ________|
|\ \  / __  __/Jason Adcock|
| \ \/ / / /CS Major, Virginia Tech|
|  \  / / /mailto:jadcock@vt.edu|
|   \/ /_/http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/|
||
+---------------------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 13:13:10 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: COPS!!!!!

In a message dated 98-02-10 11:00:05 EST, you write:

<< But, c'mon, you replaced a 260 with a 350, and you still drive *exactly*
 the same? >>

heh, well, i do tend to leave kinda quick every now and then, but i meant i
dont constantly do 80mph down the interstate or speed everywhere i go.  im
just bummed out over paying a possible $150 for some stupid $.30 bulb that i
didnt even get a warning for.   oh well..

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 13:16:05 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: window tint

In a message dated 98-02-10 02:51:21 EST, you write:

<< If you're pulling that tint off because of the cops...hold up a sec.
 What state do you live in?  I doubt it is illegal on the back windows.
  >>

nah, thats like the only thing i havent been pulled over for, i think!  :-)
oh, and i live in south carolina.  the only thing they invest in down here is
lotsa cops.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 13:20:53 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: fading emblem

does any g-body guys have problems with keeping their front emblem (between
the grills) from fading out?  i put a new one on my '78 about 4 months ago and
its already starting to fade out.  im thinking about putting a piece of tint
on there when i redo my back glass.  then again, maybe that will look
stupid.....

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 00:10:48 -0800
From: Erik <erikreb@netbridge.net>
Subject: non-olds, other lists.

Hello,

How many other lists are out there?  Is there one specifically for the
Dodge Charger? Thanks,

Erik B.
'72 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 13:09:02 -0600 (CST)
From: Jeremy Lloyd Elder <jelder1@bigred.unl.edu>
Subject: Re: COPS!!!!!

I have some of the same feelings towards cops.  I drive an '82 Cutlass
w/455.  In about the first year that I drove it I was pulled over 9
times.  I have been pulled over for everything.  One sheriff deputy in
particular has stopped me 4 or 5 of those times, twice in one night
even.  I've had my tire pattern/wheel width checked because I was in
the vicinity of where a fire had started. He pulled me over the same
night after he made up a bogus report of how someone had told him that
we were throwing beer cans out of the car (believe it or not I have
yet to touch a beer).  Another time he claimed I was spotlighting with
a 2D cell flashlight.  He's pulled me over for speeding on a gravel
road, I was doing 71 though.  And has given me a warning for barely
speeding.  Within recent memory he was standing on our square and I
had a Pepsi bottle in between my legs because he thought it was a
"dark bottle".  Three weeks ago he pulled me over because I was
wearing a black coat and someone wearing a black coat and hat broke
out some windows somewhere.  After inspecting my hands he let me go.

From all of this I am now becoming proficient in taunting cops.
They've pissed me off, now I'm trying to do the same.  Before the
officer above pulled me over for the window incident he followed me
for about 12 blocks around the square.  There's nothing illegal about
locking the tranny down in first gear, launching off the corners (not
spinning your tires of course) and looking back to see how mr. police
officer is doing.  This weekend the same officer followed me six miles
into town, through town and continued to follow me.  I got a mile out
of town took a gravel road.  He flew by on the highway and cut me off
4 miles later.  finally when he realized there was nothing he could do
he turned around.  Then I took the opportunity to track him down.
Unfortunately I didn't find again.  So play with the cops don't do
anything stupid and they'll be frustrated as h*ll if they can't do
anything.  I'll catch him some day.

Jeremy "Sqk 'Em Off" Elder
'82 Cutlass 455
'86 "The computer is fried because I charged the battery!" Cougar, 302

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 13:59:49 -0800
From: Erik <erikreb@netbridge.net>
Subject: Re: idle problems-72 cutlass

Jason Adcock wrote:
>
> James & Joanne Chermack wrote:
> >
> >         Look for a vacuum leak at the manifold or carb. That's what your
> > discribing sounds like.
>
> Yeah, I had this on my 1984 307 V8 also.  It would actually idle faster than
normal (even when the > engine was warm) in P and N.  When it was in any drive
gear (R, D, 2, 1), the idle would be the > normal drive idle.  I had a vacuum
hose with a frayed end (so it came off the nipple) behind the > carb.  I guess
it was the fast-idle vacuum line or whatever.  When I replaced that line, it 
was
all > back to normal. > > Hope this helps. > >
+---------------------------------------------------------------+ > |       __
________                                          | > |       \ \  / __  __/
Jason Adcock                            | > |        \ \/ / / /     CS Major,
Virginia Tech                 | > |         \  / / /      mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
| > |          \/ /_/       http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/          | > |
| > +---------------------------------------------------------------+


Yeah, everybody's suggestion all help.  I appreciate it.

Erik B.
'72 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 14:39:55 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: fading emblem

BIGJERMES@aol.com wrote:
>
> does any g-body guys have problems with keeping their front emblem (between
> the grills) from fading out?  i put a new one on my '78 about 4 months ago 
and
> its already starting to fade out.  im thinking about putting a piece of tint
> on there when i redo my back glass.  then again, maybe that will look
> stupid.....

You mean the hood ornament?  The two lower emblems on the front fender are
pretty much faded on my 84 CSC and the emblem-keyhole "assembly" on the trunk 
is
pretty bad.  The insert that says "Calais" is gone.  I think a new one's over
$30 from the dealer.  Pretty hefty for a small piece of plastic!

+---------------------------------------------------------------+
|__    ________|
|\ \  / __  __/Jason Adcock|
| \ \/ / / /CS Major, Virginia Tech|
|  \  / / /mailto:jadcock@vt.edu|
|   \/ /_/http://www.erols.com/adcockjk/|
||
+---------------------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 11:51:31 -0800
From: Brad Bowles <wolds@napanet.net>
Subject: WHAT A LONG, STRANGE TRIP IT'S BEEN...

I purchased my first Olds in august of 96.  A grey heap with bench
seats, column shift, ram air, and these little emblems that read
"W-30".  I was overwhelmed as he signed over the pink slip.  I felt as
if I had just bought the greatest piece of history at age 17.
As I drove it home, I merged onto the on-ramp.  opening up the
port-sized secondaries, the car sputtered, lurched and almost stalled.
Later it ran out of gas.  The first time of 3.
My hands were wet with anticipation as I held the Year One book near
the car.  My dad read off the casting numbers of the block, transmition,
and heads.  My dreams were crushed as I discovered that it wasn't a
W-30, only a 442.
Down, but not out, I set out to Sears Point in an overweight muscle
car.  My first green light went up in smoke as I pushed the pedal to the
floor, not letting up for hell or high water.  Reaction time - 0.875
E.T. - 19.7  Skid marks - over 700 feet long
I soon learned to "feather" the gas to get traction with the open rear
end and the 215/75R14's.  I was in the low 14's
I drove to Marin to see a friend from way back.  On highway 37, near
the Rennisance Faire, the oil pressure dropped and the temp shot up.  I
turned the car around, and nursed it back to Napa at a top speed of 35.
The rod berings has welded themselves to the crank, requireing a
rebuild.  LJ's speed and machine took to the job to rebuild the motor.
using parts from modello and a custom grind cam from Engle, we managed
to make 400 horse, and 600lbs of torque.
The transmittion was helped out with a B&M stage II shift kit.  And 4
months after the trip to marin, The car was running.  One Thousand
break-in miles seemed to last forever.
THe car finally made it to the body shop.  The work was to be completed
in 2 weeks.  Complications such as theft, mismatched parts, rust, and
negligents led to it being done in 18 weeks.  But When I got it back, it
was gorgous.
A Victory Red ('97 corvette) with black W-30 stripes.  Two coats of
red, two of black, and four of clear.  It was wet sanded and polished.
I had the nicest car in Napa.
The Exhaust was upgraded to Doug Thoroly headers, Torque-Tech 3"
mandrel bent exhaust, and 2 chamber Flowmaster.  Now it sounded great.
The old white walls gave way to new BFGoodrich's.  SSII 15X7's in the
rear held the 275/60R15's while the SSII 14X7's held the 225/60R14's.
It gave the car a nice rake, and low stance.  KYB Gas-a-Just shocks in
front and new air shocks in the rear help the handling.
Another trip to Sears Point produced times borderline 13/14 seconds.  A
camera crew was there to take my picture and put it into my first
magazine appearance.  Not bad, being a cover shot!
I crused the highway to Plesanton to the Goodguys show.  I showed the
car in the car corral with my first attempt at selling it.  I  recieved
several complements from the older guys understanding how hard it must
have been to achieve this being only 18 and bagging groceries for money.
Shortly before the Plesanton trip, I found my next project car.  An old
'57 chevy that was designed to run in the c/gas catagory in the 60's.
A greater effort was made to sell the car in the bay area.  Last week
someone showed great interest in the car.  And now, today, he is coming
to take my baby away.
I appreciate all of the help you guys have provided me.  Everything
from vaccuume diagrams, to info on rear-ends, it all went to good use.
And now, $20,000 later, and after just as much labor, a car of my dreams
has become a reality.  And I couldn't have done it without you.
I may be working with a Chevy now, but there will always be a spot in
my garage for another Olds.
Thanks
Brad
70 442

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 ª1094
*********************************
