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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1364


oldsmobile-digest        Monday, July 13 1998        Volume 01 : Number 1364



Re: Speedo Gear
Re: Finally got some pictures up
leaving for awhile
Re: Back from road trip - more driver's ed
Re: Finally got some pictures up
Re: Matching #'s
Re: Tranny fluid in power steering?
Re: Matching #'s
Re: Finally got some pictures up
'73 88 convert parts needed
For Sale: 65 Cutlass Convertible
Re: Identifying '70 and '71 Ram Air Hoods
Really Matching #'s
Re: Lighting problem yes you
Re: Lighting problem yes you
Re: Who's Who at Nats answer
442 stripes
Re: Back from road trip
Re: Carb ID...
Re: Back from road trip
Re: Carb ID...
Re: Matching #'s
65 Delta 88 Brakes
Re: Speedo Gear
Re: Running hot!!!
Re: Opinions: Re 1984 Delta 88
Distibutor ID
Re: 65 Delta 88 Brakes
Re: Dumb-ass/no such thing as a 442 after 1972/so will
Oldsmobile dealer ship sign
Re: Oldsmobile dealer ship sign
Auto Art (Kind of Olds related)
Who's Who at Nats/meeting time
Re: Matching #'s
Re: Running hot!!!
Screen Saver completed
free x
1973 Delta 88 body
Power hungry, need to know
Break in procedure
Re: Matching #'s
Re: Big 88 V6
Re: Power hungry, need to know
Re: Break in procedure
Re: Screen Saver completed
RE: Nitewatch?
Re: REVENGE IS SWEET
Rear Shocks
two problems.....
#'s h*lp please
Re: Rear Shocks
Re: Speedo Gear
RE: Rear Shocks
Re: Tranny fluid in power steering?
Re: two problems.....
RE: Finally got some pictures up
Re: Opinions: Re 1984 Delta 88

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 18:30:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: John M <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Speedo Gear

- ---Mike Charron <charronm@ncinter.net> wrote:
is there is a table anywhere in existence that could tell me the
correct part I need to match with the 3.08.

    Yea there's a formula to figure out what you need,I have it
somewhere,been looking for it about a month,I'll send it out for
everyone (settle down--on my page)when I dig it up.
       John
==
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/index.html
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73 http://www.442.com/mcjunkin.html
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof-307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/index-7.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!
 mailto:super442@yahoo.com


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 19:35:45 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Finally got some pictures up

> The entire state of Montana probably takes about 3 prefixes, right?

Heh heh.  That's about the size of it!  Actually, one area code, and hundreds 
of
prefices...  However, I'd assume we'd only need one of those, too.  Growing up,
we didn't even need to dial all seven digits...  My home phone number was 2788.
That's it!  There was a 487 before it, but you didn't need to dial it...   Now,
even though there's only one area code, we still have to dial the 406 for any
long distance calls.  That took awhile to get used to.  Three more damn numbers
to dial to find out about those cars for sale.....  :)


Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 22:01:00 -0400
From: "deirdre. reilly" <102724.635@compuserve.com>
Subject: leaving for awhile

See you all in about two weeks.  I'm off the list for nationals and a
business trip after that.  Hope to see some of you at Nationals.

Bill Reilly
'83 Cutlass Ciera
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 18:52:05 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Back from road trip - more driver's ed

- -----Original Message-----
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, July 12, 1998 5:17 PM
Subject: Re: Back from road trip - more driver's ed


not wanting to argue I agree I have to put up with idiots like that all the
time here in california they seem to have more here than anywhere else,,,kk

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 22:10:03 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: Finally got some pictures up

Oldsmagnet wrote:
>
> > The entire state of Montana probably takes about 3 prefixes, right?
>
> Heh heh.  That's about the size of it!  Actually, one area code, and hundreds
of You never know...as all the cowboys, ex flower children, anti-gov't types 
and
whoever else populates your great state go on line, you might even get a new
area code...we went from 2 to 5 area codes in about 3 years here in good ole
NJ...

Nothing olds related at the moment to share...having professionals do a
total rebuild on the front end of my 67 Cutlass at the moment...should
be ready this week.  The guys who's doing it owns a 67 w-30 with an
automatic..one of 112 made!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 18:59:02 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Matching #'s

only until 67 68 had the numbers on tape on the fill tube according to the
book however it was stamped into the tube this number doesnt correlate with
the seq build number of the car it does seem odd but it is true this doesnt
mean that you can fake cars really easy but it does make for a sticky
wickett when trying to authenticate an olds...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, July 12, 1998 5:47 PM
Subject: Re: Matching #'s


>
>Olds engine "casting" numbers are not an indicator of a matching # car.
>However, if you look closely at the driver's side cylinder head under the
>x-man there is a machined pad with the vehicle serial number stamped into
>it. Near the front of the head. That number needs to match to be
>considered a matching # car; because it's hard to see it's easy to
>overlook.
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 19:01:56 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Tranny fluid in power steering?

there is no friction material in atf unless it is used and it is still the
recommended fluid for power steering...kk  p.s. use dexron 2 or 3no type f
- -----Original Message-----
From: Albert Meyer <Olds@austintx.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, July 12, 1998 6:28 PM
Subject: Tranny fluid in power steering?


>I just changed the power steering pump in my 68 98. The cap on my old pump
>says "Use transmission fluid" but I have heard that you should never use
>tranny fluid in power steering because of the friction material in it. Is
>that true? Should I use tranny fluid or power steering fluid?
>'68 98 Convertible 455 - Still looking for a parts car
>Austin, Texas mailto:Olds@AustinTX.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 22:17:34 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Matching #'s

In a message dated 98-07-12 22:15:35 EDT, you write:

<< but it does make for a sticky
 wickett when trying to authenticate an olds >>

     What is it considered if it was dealer replaced? I mean, the numbers
won't match, but it's a factory part, and it could even be the CORRECT part.
Just wondering if there were any "rules" on that situation? Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 19:22:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: John M <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Finally got some pictures up

- ---Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com> wrote:

> we didn't even need to dial all seven digits...  My home phone
number was 2788.

Charley ,
        Move to Ga,we have to dial area code + 7 digits,just to call
within the same area code-Like next door----Too many  people.
       OK -OLDS content Will hit a major yard (or 2) tomorrow,Will
keep my eye's out for everybody,let you know how it goes.
        John
==
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/index.html
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73 http://www.442.com/mcjunkin.html
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof-307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/index-7.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!
 mailto:super442@yahoo.com


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 22:42:13 EDT
From: <CarPartMan@aol.com>
Subject: '73 88 convert parts needed

   Hello all. I have a customer with at 1973 Delta 88 Convertible looking for
an EXCELLENT to frame. If any of you have one for sale, please advise with
price and location in America. My customer is over seas. Thank your for your
time and in advance...
Skip Bollinger
Skip's Speed & Sport
1500 Northaven Drive
Gladstone, Missouri
64118 U.S.A.
816-455-2337
816-459-7547 fax
iATN Technical Sponsor
http://members.iatn.net/pages/oldcarparts.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 22:58:28 EDT
From: <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: For Sale: 65 Cutlass Convertible

My brother is selling his 1965 F-85/Cutlass convertible. He has been working
on this for about 8 years, and needs to sell it. This car is a complete frame-
off restoration with just about new everything. 330 c.i. V8, Red paint and
interior, new white top, complete frame-off. His name is Marty. His phone
Number is (708) 301-7348.
Don't know what he wants for it. Your on your own. The car is located in
Orland Park, Illinois.
Jim McKeague
http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 22:24:12 -0500
From: Robert Bishop <rbishop@iamerica.net>
Subject: Re: Identifying '70 and '71 Ram Air Hoods

At 08:26 AM 7/12/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Hello,
>
>I need some help.  How can one distinguish a 1970 Ram Air Hood from a 1971
>Ram Air Hood?  Also how could you tell a reproduction from an original for
>both of those years?  Thanks in advance.
>
>Joseph
>
>
Easiest visual way to distinguish is the 70 model had the stone guard (the
section with the Olds emblem between the grills) attached to the hood,
making it easier to bump your head. The 71 and 72 had the stone guard
mounted between the grills; not attached to the hood.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 23:31:10 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Really Matching #'s

Hey List,

        After reading all these recent posts on how hard it is to know
whether your Olds is numbers matching or not I'll break it down by groups of
years to do it. It's easier to document later cars, but there are ways to
make sure your buying a 442 and not a converted early Cutlass.

1967 and Older:

** NO VIN's on engine block (must use date codes and head letter ID's).
1964 - (Hardest to document) 442's all had a 330 cu in that had a "T" and a
"G" on the pass cylinder head, 4 spd only, dual snorkel air cleaner (Cutlass
had a "T" on the head and a single snorkel air cleaner), only car to have
boxed lower control arms and a rear sway bar. No stickers on the oil filler
tubes. Look             at date codes on the block right by the distributor.
Should preceed the cars build date by no more than 70-80 days.
1965 - Same codes as a 64 on the head (400 cu in for the 442) Chrome large
single snorkel air cleaner. No stickers on the oil filler tube. Same for
date codes.
1966 - 442's 400 have a "V" on the pass side cylinder head, Cutlass 330 will
be a "W". You will also find the corresponding letter on the data plate on
the fire wall. The data plate will show options in the lower left side of it
across the bottom. That is where you'll find the letter for a 442 or a Cutlass.
1967 - Same as 66 except 442's had "V" and a "G" on the cylinder head. Same
"V" on the data plate. Oil Filler tubes also had tape codes for engine and
trans type (with and w/o A/C will be different). Date codes are in the same
place.

1968 and newer:

1968-1971 442's had there own VIN. Will be a 4400 series car. If it isn't
it's just a Cutlass. 1972 the 442 became an option again on the Cutlass,
Cutlass "S", and Cutlass Supreme Conv. These cars are about as difficult to
document as the 64's. At least the W-30's will have a "X" for the engine in
the VIN. Earlier W-30's are easier to clone. All of these were Lansing cars.
If you had a std. 442 from Lansing it could very easily be made a fake for a
small investment. (ie. Red fenderwells, OAI, intake (70-72), etc. I have
seen some very good copies that would get buy most buyers. So when looking
do your homework!
*** VIN's now located on pad of block under #1 spark plug. Will NOT have
cars full VIN. Usually it will look like this: 3448Mxxxxxx
3 = Olds
44 = 442
8 = 1968 (year of production)
xxxxxx = Sequential number in VIN

ALL Olds will be stamped simular to the above. Oil Filler tubes would still
have the code for displacement, trans, and either A/C or non-A/C. Numbers
stamped in the tube have NO bearing on the VIN. Dealer replacement engines
for warranty work usually had NO VIN on the pad. (ie. 70 W-30's with an
engine replaced under warranty would have no VIN and probably be wearing KA
cylinder heads).

Hope this can help somebody out there.

Jim Chermack
OCA #23275
66 442 W-30 (Track Pac)
66 442 L-69 Tri-Carb
67 442 W-30 (Track-Pac)
66 442 Race Car
98 Intrigue

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 23:35:07 EDT
From: <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Lighting problem yes you

 peter, your left brake light was not working to day on red zilla..


jeff....

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 21:39:52 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Lighting problem yes you

>  peter, your left brake light was not working to day on red zilla..

Wahoo!!!! Talk about online computer aided automotive warning systems!!!
OBD-II, eat your heart out!

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 23:47:02 EDT
From: <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Who's Who at Nats answer

 peg,met your boy friend today.with tom and shannon

where are we meeting at the nationals    jeff ga dixie chapter

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 23:39:45 -0400
From: Ted Dumas <zcatman@flash.net>
Subject: 442 stripes

Being new into the Oldsmobile world I have many questions that maybe
someone could help me with.  I have recently aquired a 72 that I bought
in boxes.  One question is that I recently went to an all Olds show and
noticed that the bodyside stripes were different on some than on others,
some being wider than others.  Is this common, which is the correct
size?
What is the difference between W 29-30-31?
Did the 442 ever have a flat, non OAI hood?
On which 442 was the rear wing available?
My car is a conv., would this make a difference in options available,ie
above.

Thanx to anyone who may be able to help,
zcatman@flashnet.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 23:56:02 -0400
From: "Gib Loudon" <cutlass@mill.tds.net>
Subject: Re: Back from road trip

I'm going to have to comment on this....I'm still a young driver compared to
probably most of the people on this list (no disrespect intended), but I
like to think of my self as a driving extraordinare.  When I'm on the
express way, I feel at home.  If I had it my way there would be nothing but
express ways...but that's obviously not possible.  Here in michigan,
Interstates are the only way that people can get to work safely and on time.
Most of the expressways are 3 to 4 lanes wide.  you can drive in any goddam
lane you want and it usually goes like this....on a section of interstate
where the speed limit is 70, the lanes are organized into 3 groups.  the far
right lane is composed of anyone who drives between 60 and 70mph.  The
middle lane is composed of those who drive between 70 and 75.  The right
lane.....(for some strange reason called the passing lane in other states
and countries)...is composed of the people who drive between 75 and
100....yes, some people drive that speed.  Most of the people on the road
are polite....If someone in the fast lane is driving 75, and they see me
coming up behind them in the distance at a speed noticably faster than
theirs....they change lanes....and If they can't change lanes because there
is a car in the middle lane in their way, I don't ride their ass.  If they
don't move, I just switch to the middle lane and go around them....Thats the
way it should be.   It's the a$$holes that seem to be either  80 years old
or in a chevette that drive 45 in the fast lane that deserve to have their
liscense's taken away....just because the minimum speed limit is 45 mph on a
70mph freeway, that doesn't really mean you can drive that speed and hold up
traffic....some people can lose their jobs if they don't make it to work on
time.  In Joe's case, The trucker was at fault and I completely agree with
Charlies response about the trucker having more responsibility than just
passing cars....I work with a lot of truckers and My family owns a trucking
company and I know that They have all seen what happens when a trucker acts
like he rules the road.....people die...plain and simple.  One time I was
leaving a larger city to the west of where I live....as I got out of the 45
mph speed limit and got into the 55 zone, the guy in front of me decided he
was going to drive 40.  Well, I had to make it to work , so I passed
him...not even going above 60....I continued to drive at 60 mph...well, I
guess it made him mad that I passed him, so he started driving like he was
hooked to my bumper...he was close enuff that I couldn't see his headlights
in my rear view mirror.....so I decided the best way to deal with it was to
wake him up.  I locked up my brakes as fast as I could....he noticed this
and slammed on his brakes and swerved for the ditch.....I accellerated back
up to cruising speen and he continued his drive as well....only this time he
stayed far behind me.....I know what I did was dangerous, but I didn't worry
about that at the time...and if he would have hit me he would have been at
fault because he was driving dangerously close and he did not have control
of his vehicle.....Anyway...just something to think about...I know this post
will piss a lot of people off, so please feel free to email me direct with
any and all flames....I would be happy to hear from you.  mail me at
cutlass@mill.tds.net and I will reply.  Sorry for taking up so much band
width...but at least it wasn't a paste of someone else's message with 2
lines of my own text at the bottom eh Charley?  I know you hate that
too....Good nite and happy oldsmobiling.

Gib Loudon ("The Rocketman")
69 Cutlass "S" Holiday Coupe
("Reb Thunder")
cutlass@mill.tds.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 00:00:38 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Carb ID...

In a message dated 98-07-12 20:10:11 EDT, you write:

<< That carb is a CHEVY carb : )  64-66 283 AT Chev, chevelle, chev II >>

Well, it may have a checkered past, but it fits a J-2 intake, so it cannot be
all bad.
Carb for middle of J-2 spotted. It is in a 1960 Dynamic 88 (which is
hopelessly rusted out <snif>  [and the vibrational damper was gone!]).

BTW what makes you say it is a Ch*tty carb?

Just the code?

You gots the Doug Roe or Haynes book?
Or is that just the big H-bible talking?

Thanks,

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 00:06:58 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Back from road trip

Boy, everyone else here gets pissed at other drivers? : ) I thought I was the
only one! I think until they start making people drive on the freeway as part
of the driving test, there will be no change. And as a matter of fact, in WA
the left lane is the PASSING lane. It is unlawful to drive in that lane,
except to pass. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 00:09:41 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Carb ID...

In a message dated 98-07-13 00:02:28 EDT, you write:

<< Or is that just the big H-bible talking? >>
That would be the H-bible speaking. No ones proved it wrong yet. The Chiltons
on the other hand...rrrr.    Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 21:06:51 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Matching #'s

Kerry Kroger wrote:

> only until 67 68 had the numbers on tape on the fill tube according to the
> book however it was stamped into the tube this number doesnt correlate with
> the seq build number of the car it does seem odd but it is true this doesnt
> mean that you can fake cars really easy but it does make for a sticky
> wickett when trying to authenticate an olds...kk
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Sunday, July 12, 1998 5:47 PM
> Subject: Re: Matching #'s
>
> >
> >Olds engine "casting" numbers are not an indicator of a matching # car.
> >However, if you look closely at the driver's side cylinder head under the
> >x-man there is a machined pad with the vehicle serial number stamped into
> >it. Near the front of the head. That number needs to match to be
> >considered a matching # car; because it's hard to see it's easy to
> >overlook.
> >
> >Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
> >
> >

 Kerry,
The numbers stamped on the oil fill tube are not the same as the VIN.  The code
on the oil fill tube is the Engine Unit Number.  64-67 V8's have the engine
unit number as part of the code stamped on the right cylinder head.  68 and
newer V8's have the engine unit number stamped on the oil fill tube. The first
digit indicating year. The decal on the tube indicates engine displacement,
trans type, A/C or not, etc.  The engine unit number is simply the production
number of the engine itself and will not appear anywhere else on the vehicle.
(Although it is on the Protecto-Plate card).  The main purpose of the engine
unit number is for correcting possible problems found on engines built between
a series of unit numbers.  Since the oil fill tubes are interchangeable among
blocks and the decals are replaceable, using the oil fill tube "information"
for "numbers match", is not an accurate means of identification.
  What Greg Beaulieu pointed out is correct.  68 and newer V8's will have the
VIN stamped on a raised boss on the left side of the engine block.  THIS is
what you need to have match with the VIN.  The VIN is what's on the title and
on the plate visible through the windshield.  (Note this NOT the same as the
trim tag codes).
  To answer the original post, for a car  (68 and up) to be numbers matching,
the block and transmission will have the VIN stamped into them.  In addition,
to be an "All Numbers Matching" car, all of the components will need to have
the correct casting and/or stamping codes on them.  This includes, carb, intake
manifold, heads, water pump, exhaust manifolds, distributor, etc., etc., etc.
A numbers matching car will also match the trim tag (located on the cowl).
I.e.:  Original paint color, interior color, etc.


- --
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 21:19:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: 65 Delta 88 Brakes

     Sorry, this isn't about lane discipline or auto revenge and it's
not a 789 HP 307 or even a Four-Forty-Two (deliberately mispronounced).
     Some OLDS CONTENT for a change :)

     I have a 1965 Delta 88 (among others). It has power drum brakes
and a single master cylinder. I want to convert to a dual master
cylinder. Will the 67-up master cylinder work with my original booster?

Thanks!

==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our Oldsmobiles and more at
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 00:21:50 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Speedo Gear

In a message dated 98-07-12 20:41:20 EDT, you write:

<<  I swapped both the tranny (2 speed "jetaway" >>TH400) and the rear end
(2.78 >> 3.08).  Now I'm looking for a speedometer gear that will match the
two together.  >>


Ooh. That's a toughie. My chassis manual lists the number of teeth necessary
on drive and driven gear, but it varies with transmission.

There are three different combinations listed for 3.08:1;
Two for V-6 ignored.

For 15" tires;
Drive     Driven
17            38

But these are listed for JT, SM&FS transmissions.
Uh, Jetaway and some others, Not TH-400.

A later chassis manual is likely to have the #'s 4 U.

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 00:26:04 EDT
From: <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Running hot!!!

In a message dated 98-07-11 02:24:38 EDT, you write:

<< > I just recently installed a 455 into a 72 Olds 442. The car has the 3
core
 > radiator, 160 thermostat, 9/12 compression.The car will run in the 190 -
 > 210 degree range. It will climb a little over 210 if stuck in traffic. >>
Besides the 3 core what else are you using or not using. You must use a fan
shroud and have your fan properly spaced. I believe the fan should just stick
out of the shroud about 3/4 of an inch to give you max cfm's. Are you running
stock fan? with a bad clutch or the largest flex fan you can fit in the
shroud. I believe the biggest they make is 18'' my brother just put it in his
ponti. And the 160 thermo you are using is it a high flow thermo?? Also there
has been some talk about an additive called water wetter increases heat
transfer. What about your water pump? The aluminum water pump would be a nice
upgrade before going from a 3 to a 4 core rad. This is a few ideas.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 00:26:56 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Opinions: Re 1984 Delta 88

In a message dated 98-07-12 20:55:38 EDT, you write:

<< . worth of a '84 Delta 88, 105,xxx miles with a 307? >>


My *1995* Kelley Blue Book says that the LS 4d Sedan in "good" (not excellent)
condition has a base value of $3175.

Subtract some for flaws (dents, rust, cracked glass)

Add to that value for options;
power toys, cassette,tilt, cruise, leather, sun/moon roof, funky wheels
(alloy/premium/wire).

Subtract if lacking; auto tranny, p/s, a/c.

Max val in 1995 was $3675, min was ~$2475. Those numbers are without
deductions for whatever "love marks" the vehicle has.

And of course, it is worth less now.
However, by extrapolating to 1998, this car does have "acceptable" milage for
a 1984 car. (exceeding "acceptable" milage is also a deduction)

In order to fix a real 1998 $ amount, these books come out semi-annually, a
Kelley Blue Book was $10 in 1995, likely to be same or more now. Funny how
that works.........

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 21:58:55 -0700
From: "Corey Day" <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Distibutor ID

I am working on a 455 in a 68 Delta 88 the Distributer is marked 1111289 and
doesn't seem to match any of
the listings in the FAQ:

From the Olds FAQ
424    1111291     Olds '68 8-455, 9.0 comp w/trans ign.
425    1111288     Olds '68 8-455, 9.0 comp w/o trans ign.
426    1111292     Olds '68 8-455, 10.25 comp w/trans ign.
427    1111935     Olds '68 8-455, 10.25 comp w/o trans ign.

I am trying to determine information like above??

Corey Day
70 Cutlass S -455
dayc@ix.netcom.com
www.netcom.com/~dayc/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 23:17:13 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: 65 Delta 88 Brakes

>      Some OLDS CONTENT for a change :)

Hooray!!!  :)

>      I have a 1965 Delta 88 (among others). It has power drum brakes
> and a single master cylinder. I want to convert to a dual master
> cylinder. Will the 67-up master cylinder work with my original
> booster?

Should work, I'm not familiar with the specifics there.  However, you'll want 
to
make sure to grab just about everything from the donor car.  Particularly the
proportioning valve, since your single's will be a different setup.  Switching
to disks, too?  Just curious, cause that'll affect the master cylinder and
proportioning valve as well.

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 22:26:23 -0700
From: "mr. coy d. arbogast" <coyster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Dumb-ass/no such thing as a 442 after 1972/so will

So will a street sweeper, so whats your point?

SxyIrshman@aol.com wrote:

> hey buddy...i have a 73 442 with a 350...and even though it's no bad ass...it
> came with a muncie 4 on the floor and a posi rear end....now that i have
> it...it'll dust off alot of this newer (and older) crap on the road....learn
> some respect....
> mike 73 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 01:38:48 EDT
From: <Cnvrt67@aol.com>
Subject: Oldsmobile dealer ship sign

I have a dealer ship sign. they are 4 big cubes that spell out o-l-d-s when
stacked vertically. my father used to have a friend that worked at a olds
dealership back in the 70's and some how my dad got these from him. they are
in there original crate and have never been takin out. this is the type of
sign that would be on a pole to let the people know it was an olds dealership.
So.......

I want to know opinions on what this is worth. any ideas?

Also, anyone interested in this rare item??? Let me know.

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 01:46:51 EDT
From: <TORO1968@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile dealer ship sign

ILL BUY THEM FOR $100, SEND A RESPONSE

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 01:50:11 EDT
From: <JCRASH7@aol.com>
Subject: Auto Art (Kind of Olds related)

I've been playing around with Corel Photo Paint 5 for a while, and decided to
post my creations on the web.  Now for the Olds related part.  I have taken
Bill Gochenour's 442, and made lots of creations with that, John McJunkin's
Cutlass which I've made a couple, and a couple other Oldsmobiles.  It's really
kind of interesting, and I'm always looking for something new to edit.  If you
want me to mess with your car digitally, email my a side view or front/side
view of your car, and I'll see what I can do.  Please send all file
attachments to jcrash7@geocities.com please.  The address where my edited pics
can be seen is http://members.aol.com/jcrash7/autoart.html.

Joe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 02:22:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.edu>
Subject: Who's Who at Nats/meeting time

As of Sunday night:

Name            Dates           Hotel           Car(s)
- --------------------------------------------------------
Mark Prince     7/17-7/18       none yet        72 442 W-30
Mark Cornea     7/17-7/18       none yet        70 442 W-30
Bryce Smith     7/14-7/19       Crowne Plaza    none
Chris Casteel   7/17            Comfort Inn     none
Brent Ardo	7/16-7/19	Holiday Inn	72 CS conv.
Chris Smetana	7/15-7/18	Days Inn	69 S W-31
Jim McKeague	7/15-7/18	Crowne Plaza	70 W-31 &
						70 Rallye 350
Everett Horton	7/14-7/19	Campground	61 Starfire
Kurt & Rose	7/15-7/17	Holiday Inn	90 Trofeo
Leigh Tenenholtz7/15-7/19	Crowne Plaza	68 CS conv.
Ken Brooks	7/15-7/18	Crowne Plaza	69 Hurst
Jeff		7/15-7/17	hotel-hopping	none
Jack Bazur	7/16-7/18			none
Dan Williams	7/16-7/19	Holiday Inn	68 442 conv.
Bill Reilly	7/16-7/19	Crowne Plaza	83 Cutlass Ciera
Karl Aune	7/16-7/17(18)	Red Roof Inn	Soylent Ocean Mist
Brent Fields	7/15-7/17	Comfort Suites	none
Preston Oder 	7/15-7/19      	Holiday Inn	70 442
Kelly Logan  	7/15-7/19      	Holiday Inn	71 CS Conv.
Tom Williams 	7/15-7/19      	Holiday Inn	70 CS SX
Steve Bicker	7/17-7/20	Crowne Plaza	73 442 (modified)
Randy Ruark					none

There seem to be nonstop activities the entire four days.  The open time
slots seem to be Thursday between 5-8, Friday at 6, and Saturday after
noon.

A lot of people are leaving in the next day or two, so for the sake of
coordination, let me suggest Friday at 6 at Everett Horton's swap space.

I'll repost again tomorrow throughout the day.  Those of you who are
leaving now, be safe and have fun!

8)
peg

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 23:20:49 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Matching #'s

that happened all the time the hurst olds is a good example they had the 455
installed at demmer so the # wont match the car the chevies
had ce codes for "counter engine" this was in corvettes camaros and
chevelles they also had the copo "central office production option" this was
a ce installed on the line so my advice has always been, do you like the
car? if so bye it for a reasonable price fix it up and DRIVE IT
this is way more fun than trailering it everywhere in search of the $5.00
trophy just for having the "correct" codes color dots tapes and stickers on
the car if anyone disagrees so be it but I will drive it fix it and drive it
some more.  well with that I will turn the soapbox over to the next
contestant on what would you do with a musclecar good day

kerry kroger
69 442 (numbers match)got hit and in the process of fixin it up
69 W-31(ditto) totalled

- -----Original Message-----
From: DYeager535@aol.com <DYeager535@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, July 12, 1998 7:19 PM
Subject: Re: Matching #'s


>In a message dated 98-07-12 22:15:35 EDT, you write:
>
><< but it does make for a sticky
> wickett when trying to authenticate an olds >>
>
>     What is it considered if it was dealer replaced? I mean, the numbers
>won't match, but it's a factory part, and it could even be the CORRECT
part.
>Just wondering if there were any "rules" on that situation? Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 02:18:15 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Running hot!!!

I got the 4 core radiator and installed it. It runs a tad bit cooler,
especially when driving. But even when driving today (83degress, sunny, low
humidity) the car was about 190-195 moving. I will try and replace the fan
clutch next. I do have a fan shroud. I will also try the Red Line Wetter. I
hope it can drop at least 10 degress.

- ----------
> From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Running hot!!!
> Date: Sunday, July 12, 1998 11:26 PM
>
> In a message dated 98-07-11 02:24:38 EDT, you write:
>
> << > I just recently installed a 455 into a 72 Olds 442. The car has the
3
> core
>  > radiator, 160 thermostat, 9/12 compression.The car will run in the 190
- -
>  > 210 degree range. It will climb a little over 210 if stuck in traffic.
>>
> Besides the 3 core what else are you using or not using. You must use a
fan
> shroud and have your fan properly spaced. I believe the fan should just
stick
> out of the shroud about 3/4 of an inch to give you max cfm's. Are you
running
> stock fan? with a bad clutch or the largest flex fan you can fit in the
> shroud. I believe the biggest they make is 18'' my brother just put it in
his
> ponti. And the 160 thermo you are using is it a high flow thermo?? Also
there
> has been some talk about an additive called water wetter increases heat
> transfer. What about your water pump? The aluminum water pump would be a
nice
> upgrade before going from a 3 to a 4 core rad. This is a few ideas.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 03:25:07 -0400
From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: Screen Saver completed

Hello again all,

Well, I have completed my first screen saver dedicated to all of you.
Actually, its my first screen saver ever.  I think you will find it has
a slight Oldsmobile theme with pics of cars and other "Oldsmobilia" that
I found.  This one hands more toward the Cutlass/442 side of things, but
fear not, there's plenty more creativity where this one came from.
Anyway, I hope all of you enjoy it and thanks to those who sent me
pictures.  I apologize if I didn't use your particular car for this one,
but I got it done as soon as I could, just to see how it turned out.
Please read the README.TXT included in the zip file, some odd things
happen with it at low resolution.  I tried to keep it as small as
possible, but the sounds took up alot of space.

You can get your copy at:        http://www.stonehill.edu/~dgerow
Just click on the link for the screen saver.

Please let me know what you think, or if there are any problems with
it.  I tested it at all screen resolutions and it does work, it just
gets slow and the timing gets all messed up, but oh well.  Please feel
free to send me your feedback, and don't forget to enjoy

Daniel R. Gerow
dgerow@stonehill.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 00:03:45 PDT
From: error3434@juno.com
Subject: free x

Dear Valued Customer,

hey if you are over 21 and want to see a nice new free xx page i just put up
then come to http://208.201.47.129/freex.html





if you do not want to recieve this message just put remove in the subject line
and send it back

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 10:45:53 +0200
From: Martin Larsen <martin@auditdata.dk>
Subject: 1973 Delta 88 body

Does anybody know if the 1972 or 1974 Delta 88 body is the same as the
1973 ?
I have a 1973 455 cui. Delta 88 2D Coupé with a rusty body and I am
looking for the same body, but have found _nothing_ though I have
searched through all the major sites.
Due to the fact that I live in Denmark the car must be found somewhere
near L.A. where it must be shipped from. This does not make it easier.
If you know where to find this model, please let me know.

Martin Larsen
martin@auditdata.dk

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 02:55:06 -0600
From: "Igor" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Subject: Power hungry, need to know

Okay.  I am just about to fire up the 455 for the first time and am
wondering what you guys think I will get for power/acceleration/ETs/fuel
economy out of it.  Here is what I have:

ENGINE:
'76 455 block, .030over, TRW 10:1CR pistons, Speed-Pro/Lunati 280/290 AD,
.448/.472lift, 790CFM Q-jet, ported and polished J-heads, stock valves,
True DBL roller timing chain and gears, ACCEL power coil and wires, Morso
timing curve kit, '71 non-egr intake, 180deg. hi-flow thermostat, HD
cooling package, fully rebuild, turned crank, all new berrings, fel-pro
gaskets, blah, blah.

TRANS:
'76 TH400 (out of Delta) long tail, been rebuilt, OR code, Hurst Hot Shift
Street/Strip 2 setting, 2400RPM stall converter, heavy duty trans cooler

EXAUST:
Stock ported exaust manifolds, dual 2.5" exaust, cross-over tube, turbo
mufflers, dumps

REAR:
3.23 limited slip (posi) 10-bolt, 255/60/15 BFGoodrich T/As (26" tall)

CAR:
'81 Delta 88, 4-dr, F41 suspention, 255s all around, Heavy Duty shocks and
springs (lowered).  Car ride is very firm.  I don't thik it will even turn
the tires.

I am just interested what my aprox figures would be for HP/Torque and also
1/4mile ETs and 0-60.  Also, if you have any suggetions about what I should
do/change, please suggest them.  What would it take to be in the 14s.  3.23
is as high as I would go seeing my van with 4:10s turn nuts RPM on the
highway. Thanks a lot.  My first engine, vary nervose.  Anyhow, should be
improvment from stock, super-high mileage 307 with 2.41 limited slip.

Igor Todorovic, UofC
1981 Delta 88 (455/TH400, 255/60/15 BFG, 3.23 limited slip)
1981 98 Regency (every option, 307/200r4/propane)
1976 Delta 88 (now parts car, was 455)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360, RVcam, 4:10 gears, tire smoker, king off the line)
1995 Intrepid (3.3L, dads car, okay, but no Delta)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 02:58:45 -0600
From: "Igor" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Subject: Break in procedure

Okay.  I am about to fire the 455 fist time.  This is my first engine, so I
need to know the proper fire/break-in procedure.  How long befoure I can
get it tuned and test what it will do.  Also, I change the torqe converter,
shift kit, rear-end, new driveshaft all at onece, so those components will
need a break in too, so keep that in mind.  You can see in my "power
hungry" post what I did to the car.  Thanks a lot.

Igor Todorovic, UofC
1981 Delta 88 (455/TH400, 255/60/15 BFG, 3.23 limited slip)
1981 98 Regency (every option, 307/200r4/propane)
1976 Delta 88 (now parts car, was 455)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360, RVcam, 4:10 gears, tire smoker, king off the line)
1995 Intrepid (3.3L, dads car, okay, but no Delta)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 05:13:57 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Matching #'s

Kerry Kroger wrote:
>
> that happened all the time the hurst olds is a good example they had the 455
> installed at demmer so the # wont match

Just to clarify this, THEY LIE!  Oldsmobile installed the engines.  And
they also had the VIN stamped into the block and tranny as did all the
other cars on the line.  They just TOLD the GM brass that Demmer did it
to get around the c.i.d. ban of >400 cubes.  Assembly manual even
"proves" this.  Tells that to install a "Rocket 455" decal on the air
cleaner small lid.

Read the 68 "foldout" or the 69 H/O coversion add on retail sticker, and
the description of what Hurst did never mentioned the 455.  Of course,
neither does the W-46 option code on the window sticker neither, for
obvious reasons.

Just want to clear this up.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 03:12:24 -0600
From: "Igor" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: Big 88 V6

If it is a buick 3.8L V6 (probably is) the trans should bolt right up.  If
you have OD that is great as you can swap in a 3.08 or 3.23 rear end from
one of those cars that had a tow package.  If it is not OD, you can still
do it but expect the MPG to drop.  With a V6 you should have 2.73s which
are okay anyways.  But yes, the trans will bolt up to any
Buick/Olds/Pontiac V8 but if you use a 307 it should last, otherwise plan a
trans swap soon too.  This is easy but trannyies are not free.  Good luck.

Igor Todorovic, UofC
1981 Delta 88 (455/TH400, 255/60/15 BFG, 3.23 limited slip)
1981 98 Regency (every option, 307/200r4/propane)
1976 Delta 88 (now parts car, was 455)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360, RVcam, 4:10 gears, tire smoker, king off the line)
1995 Intrepid (3.3L, dads car, okay, but no Delta)

- ----------
> From: Bill Bussell <photographer@trader.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Big 88 V6
> Date: Sunday, July 12, 1998 8:43 AM
>
> I asked about finding a plastic elbow too quickly. I located the part
> with a trip to my friendly Autozone store. I too find myself buying many
> parts at Autozone.  My last big purchase was a new three core radiator
> for my 87 Custom Cruiser at a cost of $108. I replaced this in the
> parking lot of my employer located 55 miles from home.  Some home owners
> near the office wanted to send me to the environmental police.
>
> The performance of the V6 in the 82 Delta 88 is nothing great, but it
> gets you there.  My dad bought the Delta new with a price of about
> $10,000.  I have toyed with the idea of an engine swap.  I need to
> determine if the transmission is compatible with a V8.
>
> Bill Bussell
> Speedway, Indiana

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 06:19:18 EDT
From: <GraphixRUs@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Power hungry, need to know

Igor,
Has any one said any thing to you about priming the engine with oil & about
what rpm & how long to let  it run on initial start up?.
These things are very important.
Roger

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 06:48:46 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Break in procedure

Igor

        You must first fire the engine and run it to 1800-2200 RPM for 15
minutes. This has to be done so you break the cam and lifters in. They need
the oil splash that's there at these RPMs. After that you can shut it down
and get ready to tune. It's best to start the car up with ONLY water in the
radiator and NO thermostat. A fresh engine has hot spots that could cause
overheating. Once all the brak in is done, put the thermostat and your
cooant mixture in and enjoy.

Jim Chermack

At 02:58 AM 7/13/1998 -0600, you wrote:
>Okay.  I am about to fire the 455 fist time.  This is my first engine, so I
>need to know the proper fire/break-in procedure.  How long befoure I can
>get it tuned and test what it will do.  Also, I change the torqe converter,
>shift kit, rear-end, new driveshaft all at onece, so those components will
>need a break in too, so keep that in mind.  You can see in my "power
>hungry" post what I did to the car.  Thanks a lot.
>
>Igor Todorovic, UofC
>1981 Delta 88 (455/TH400, 255/60/15 BFG, 3.23 limited slip)
>1981 98 Regency (every option, 307/200r4/propane)
>1976 Delta 88 (now parts car, was 455)
>1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360, RVcam, 4:10 gears, tire smoker, king off the line)
>1995 Intrepid (3.3L, dads car, okay, but no Delta)
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 04:44:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: John M <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Screen Saver completed

Dan,
         Thanks for the screensaver,it's better than the "bouncing
text" windows with "OLDS 442" in it.
           John



==
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/index.html
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73 http://www.442.com/mcjunkin.html
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof-307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/index-7.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!
 mailto:super442@yahoo.com


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 07:50:49 -0500
From: "Cote, Jeffrey"
<IMCEAEX-_O=MCCO_OU=MORGAN_CN=RECIPIENTS_CN=M947AIM@morganco.com> Subject: RE:
Nitewatch?

Excellent explanation. I will add that the Nitewatch option is meant to
operate
off of the oil pressure sending unit.

Jeff Cote
Worcester, MA


> ----------
> From: 	Paul Hartlieb[SMTP:plh@nbn.net]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Friday, July 10, 1998 10:27 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: Nitewatch?
>
> Kevin Meredith wrote:
> >
> > Ok, all youse heros out there, I'll ask the question that some of
> you, like
> > me, are just dyin to ask: What the heck is a Nitewatch option,
> please?
>
> Night-Watch is kind of a poor man's Twilight Sentinel...
>
> I guess you don't know what that is either...
>
> Anyway, Night-Watch gave you the ability to turn on the headlights,
> with
> a timer, so that you could, say, walk to your front door at night with
> the safety of your headlights guiding your way.  To turn on the
> Night-Watch you pushed a button under the dash.  They went out
> automatically after approx. 60 seconds (you had no control over the
> time).  Cadillac had the better Twilight Sentinel system.  It had a
> sensor that turned on the headlights at dusk, turned them off at dawn.
>
> And when you turned off the motor, the headlights remained lit for the
> amount of time that YOU chose by setting the dial.
>
> Paul
> --
> Paul Hartlieb
> Myerstown, PA
> mailto:plh@nbn.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 08:00:11 -0400
From: Peter Flinkfelt <pftno1klr@edgenet.net>
Subject: Re: REVENGE IS SWEET

They were separate gags, sorry.

MFATZII@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 98-07-10 04:15:06 EDT, you write:
>
> <<    If you know he drives at night, get 150 ft of 1/2 inch braided cable
>  with locking retainers, wrap around axle, drive shaft, bumper, etc,  attach
>  other end to to stationary object,  i.e., telephone pole, guard rail,
>  another car, etc, OR run it through several other car windows, around drive
>  shafts, through a building window and finally to a steel 50 lb dumbell
>  plate.
>
>      Carefully remove all lug nuts from wheels. >>
>
> Uh, If the wheels fall off how does this little gag work?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 07:07:13 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Rear Shocks

How do I install rear shocks in my 71 Cutlass?  Is it a hard job?

I broke a stud in my valve cover, Is there any way to get it out?

Thanks

======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
11wins and 4 losses
======================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 08:32:09 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: two problems.....

Sunday was a fine day. Drove to Doylestown Pa. for a local car show. Saw a
couple of '56 Oldses with "Rocket Motor" inscribed on the valve covers. Forgot
how big those cars really were. On the way back,  I heard a loud whirring
noise as I accelerated. My local mechanic says it's either the Alternator or
water pump. He says to disconnect the alternator belt and start the car. If it
still makes noise, it's the water pump. (I didn't know the car would start
without the alternator.) Second Problem, brake pedal pushed down way too far.
Opened the Master cylinder and the larger resevoir was almost empty! Shouldn't
there be a noticeable leak somewhere? If there is I can't find it. Should I
hust replave both rear brake lines? I need your help on this one guys.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 Conv. 350

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 08:44:50 EDT
From: <DKlauber@aol.com>
Subject: #'s h*lp please

OK these are the #'s from the 70 Pace car that I am interested in.  My main
concern is that it does have the 455 and that is rarer than the 350 engine in
the pace cars.  Was this a 350 that some one converted, or does it seem to be
matching #'s.  Thanks again
Body by Fisher plate
ST  70  34467LAN406836   BDY
TR 970    10 A PNT
O3D    Y74

Engine #'s  casting (block) 396021F
Stamp (oil filler) 0441935

VIN (body) 344670M305606
Heads right- E2*CFD  403686--   0640
left  E3*  CFD  403686--   0620

Exhaust manifolds Rt 402294 RH  AR * D2Z
Lt 402295 LH *DZAC W

Intake manifold 410448  *  D2B   03030

Trans  8623500 General Motors corp
70-OG
11628

Rear end 40227     090
Thanks again for any help you can give, David

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 08:14:50 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Shocks

>How do I install rear shocks in my 71 Cutlass?  Is it a hard job?


Jack the rear of the car up and put jackstand(s) under the rear frame
just in front of the tires.  Then take the jack and lift the axle up a
little bit.  (Do one side at a time).  Remove the bolts and the shocks
pop right off.  Very easy.  Soak the old shock bolts with liquid
wrench for a while before trying to remove them.

>I broke a stud in my valve cover, Is there any way to get it out?

Try doing this with the cover on so no particles get into the engine.
Use a small, brand new drill bit to make a hole into the stud.  Then
using the largest size easy-out that will fit, it will twist the stud
out.

- -greg

>
>Thanks
>
>======================
>Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>>1971 Cutlass S 455
>>Westside! Chitown IL
>11wins and 4 losses
>======================
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 08:21:28 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Speedo Gear

Even if there was a table that was accurate, it would depend on your
tire sizes too.  The right way to do it find a local speedometer shop
that does calibrations with a roller dyno.  A lot of people get this
done to help fight speeding tickets ("see, my speedo says I was going
55").  It doesn't cost that much, then the shop knows what percentage
correction is needed.  They can then change the gear sets.  My car was
far off and would have needed a new ring gear inside the tranny, it
was cheaper to buy a $100 conversion box that screws in between the
tranny and speedo cable.  You might get lucky and just need a $5 gear.

- -greg

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Charron <charronm@ncinter.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, July 12, 1998 8:40 PM
Subject: Speedo Gear



Hi everyone,

I need some help finding a speedometer gear.

I've got a '68 Cutlass S, in which (among other mods) I swapped both
the tranny (2 speed "jetaway" >>TH400) and the rear end (2.78 >>
3.08).  Now I'm looking for a speedometer gear that will match the two
together.  Right now I clock 60mph when the dial is reading 80.

I don't know if this gear is compatible with the same from a TH300--or
if there is a table anywhere in existence that could tell me the
correct part I need to match with the 3.08.

Anyone know what part I need, and where to get such a part?

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 08:15:41 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: Rear Shocks

======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
======================


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Gregory Zimmerman [SMTP:zimmermangm@email.msn.com]
	Sent:	Monday, July 13, 1998 7:15 AM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	Re: Rear Shocks



	>How do I install rear shocks in my 71 Cutlass?  Is it a hard job?


	Jack the rear of the car up and put jackstand(s) under the rear
frame
	just in front of the tires.  Then take the jack and lift the axle up
a
	little bit.  (Do one side at a time).  Remove the bolts and the
shocks
	pop right off.  Very easy.  Soak the old shock bolts with liquid
	wrench for a while before trying to remove them.

	>I broke a stud in my valve cover, Is there any way to get it out?

	Try doing this with the cover on so no particles get into the
engine.
	Use a small, brand new drill bit to make a hole into the stud.  Then
	using the largest size easy-out that will fit, it will twist the
stud
	out.

	-greg

	>
	>Thanks
	>
	Thanks Greg for all off your information and help

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 08:22:54 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Tranny fluid in power steering?

Yes, use Dextron II.  It's basically just hydraulic fluid, even the
convertible top cylinders use it.

- -greg

- -----Original Message-----
From: Albert Meyer <Olds@austintx.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, July 12, 1998 9:28 PM
Subject: Tranny fluid in power steering?


>I just changed the power steering pump in my 68 98. The cap on my old
pump
>says "Use transmission fluid" but I have heard that you should never
use
>tranny fluid in power steering because of the friction material in
it. Is
>that true? Should I use tranny fluid or power steering fluid?
>'68 98 Convertible 455 - Still looking for a parts car
>Austin, Texas mailto:Olds@AustinTX.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 08:32:59 -0500
From: bloom@mail.gorilla.net
Subject: Re: two problems.....

Bruce,
  To check the alternater,after driving car a few miles,turn off engine and
carefully
feel alternater. If it feels really hot it's probably the bearing. If it's
the water
pump,you'll know in a matter of days because it will start to leak out of
the weep
hole.The brake pedal is most likely caused by a small leak that slowly
lowers the
pedal as fluid escapes.You should pull wheels until you discover which
brake cylinder
or line is leaking.



At 08:32 AM 7/13/98 EDT, you wrote:
 On the way back,  I heard a loud whirring
>noise as I accelerated. My local mechanic says it's either the Alternator or
>water pump. He says to disconnect the alternator belt and start the car.
If it
>still makes noise, it's the water pump. (I didn't know the car would start
>without the alternator.) Second Problem, brake pedal pushed down way too far.
>Opened the Master cylinder and the larger resevoir was almost empty!
Shouldn't
>there be a noticeable leak somewhere? >Bruce
>75 Delta 88 Conv. 350
>
Fred K. (bloom@gorilla.net)
Tulsa,OK. area
'67 442
'67 Cutlass
		44   44  44   44  222222
		44   44  44   44   2  2
		4444444  4444444   2  2
		     44       44   2  2
		     44       44  222222
	

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 10:07:03 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: Finally got some pictures up

Nice car. Ever think about adding the side pipes again?.....don't do it....

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Steve Utick [SMTP:sutick@mt.net]
> Sent:	Saturday, July 11, 1998 9:20 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Finally got some pictures up
>
> I've been lurking on the list for quite a while.  Really enjoyed a lot of
> the discussions.  I finally decided to dust off the scanner and get some
> pictures of my 71 442 up on a web page.  If anyone cares to take a look,
> they are at: http://www.mt.net/~sutick/olds
>
> Let me know what ya think....
>
> -------------------------
> Steve Utick
> From the Heart of MONTANA
> sutick@mt.net
> http://www.mt.net/~sutick
> _________________________
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Jul 1998 10:15:32 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Opinions: Re 1984 Delta 88

>
>          Anyone have a clue as to the approx. worth of a '84 Delta 88,
> 105,xxx miles with a 307?
>
> Thanks,
>               E.J.

Depends totally on condition and options. Just as an example, I paid $1500
for my '85, from a used car dealer who sorta specializes in Olds'. Power
everything, tilt, cruise (not working), AM-FM, immaculate interior except
for broken pwr door lock switches. LF fender rusted thru, surface rust on
rear bumper. Good paint. Needed shocks & brakes. No warrantee. 123,000 mi.
307, smooth as silk.

Same car with no rust or dings, probably ask $3000, get $2500. Or with
rusted-out bumper, foot long crease in one door and bullet hole in the
windshield -- $400. So the answer is "It depends..."

drc

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1364
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