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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1377


oldsmobile-digest        Monday, July 20 1998        Volume 01 : Number 1377



Re: UNBOUNCE: Documenting '67 4-4-2 Turnpike Cruiser
Re: cars for sale
steering wheel pulling help!
w-25 aircleaner {for sale}
Wife wants me to sell my 442
What kind of conv. top to get?
I'm Back (who cares?)Springfield Nat's
timing problem further diagnosed (long)
Re: Olds List
Re: Olds List
rust in 83 cutlass
Re: '72 VIN's {Location to look + possible typo}
Re: Chrome SSIs (was: wheel choices)
Re: steering wheel pulling help!
Re: steering wheel pulling help!
Re: 87 442 how much is it worth?
Alcohol
LIST REMOVAL AND GUIDELINES
Re: juice brakes (non-mopar)
TX HeatWave
Re: steering wheel pulling help!
Re: Alcohol
Re: cars for sale
Re: Alcohol
Re: Hi! I am new
Re: Alcohol
Re: TX HeatWave
442 Interior
'87 442 performance mods (tranny and chip)
(no subject)
Re: 442 Interior
Carb questions, opinions please
455 block
Re: rust in 83 cutlass
Re: Finally got some pictures up
Re: Finally got some pictures up
RE: Finally got some pictures up
goody bags
Nationals
Re: Chrome SSIs (was: wheel choices)
Re: rust in 83 cutlass
Re: Carb questions, opinions please
Re: Carb questions, opinions please
What to do?
Re: What to do?
Re: What to do?
Re: What to do?
Re: What to do? [LONG]
the nationals at springfield
Re: Carb questions, opinions please
Re: What to do?
65 Vista Cruiser roof rack.
Re: What to do? [LONG]
NON Olds-Bookmark assistance???
Re: What to do? [LONG]
Re: What to do?
69 H/O Convertible at Nats. (very interesting)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 10:41:51 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Documenting '67 4-4-2 Turnpike Cruiser

George & Joan C. Lesperance wrote:
>
> Well we now have one for each year 67 - 69 are there any more Sports coupes
with > post, bench seat and automatic on the column.  Buckets are acceptable
also. > George ordered his from the factory as such we did see another 69 about
20 years > ago at Detroit Dragway that the person made himself for the track.
We haven't > come across another 69 442 W-30 Sports Coupe with bench and
automatic on the > column that has been factory made.

I've got a friend that has a documented '70 442 W30 Holiday Coupe that
has a bench and auto on the column.

- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 09:51:24 -0500
From: Rodney Dickman <rodney1@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: cars for sale

Hello Olds list:

I have a steering wheel I want to sell. It is the black
sport style 442 style from a 1970 442. It is in very good
condition. What is it worth? I see in Hemmings a range from
$100 to $175.

Also have some 1970 442 sales brochures and a 1969 Road a
Track with the 442 test drive in it.

Thanks
Rodney Dickman

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 10:52:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tom Lardner <lardner@UMDNJ.EDU>
Subject: steering wheel pulling help!

Hey guys,
I'm changing the turn signal cam on my dad's 85 Cutlass Salon, and I got
the wheel off, and I'm wondering how you get the plastic casing under the
wheel off.  It covers the cam.  I don't want to break it, so I stopped
what I was doing and came in to the computer!  :)  Gotta love technology.
Please help if you know!
Thanks
Tom

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 10:02:41 -0500
From: kenny porter <kdporter@midwest.net>
Subject: w-25 aircleaner {for sale}

W-25 air cleaner complete assembly off of rallye 350  500.00 ex.
contition. email me or call me at {618}987-2884

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 11:14:56 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Wife wants me to sell my 442

Just got back from a few days at the beach, and on the way home my wife
brings up the subject of cars.  She wants me to sell my '71 442.  Now
don't give me reccomendations for a divorce lawyer yet...she wants me to
then find a really nice '70-'72 442 ragtop (which I ~really~ want).  Not
only that, but I've been mentioning getting a Vista Cruiser for about a
year, and now she says that I should also look for one of those!  She
doesn't want to get rid of her truck, but thinks the VC would be great
for vacations plus it could pull a trailer nicely.

DILEMA #1
So now comes the hard part, what exactly to do.  I love my current car
even though it has the following problems:
	needs some rear brake work
	eats some oil
	has weak floorpans
	has rust in the quarters and wheelhouses
	has some small rust in the drivers fender
	the paint on the passenger door is crazing
I was thinking of finding a donor body and swapping the body (cheaper
than replacing all the rusty parts), but now that I may be selling it,
I'm thinking I could get more $$ parting the car rather than selling it
whole (i.e.-OAI, wing, console w/dualgate, rallye pak, etc) or keep some
of the parts to "upgrade" the next car.

DILEMA #2
I'm not made of money and couldn't afford to buy the nice ragtop before
selling my current ride (which is my daily driver).  Getting a clean VC
first, could be the solution, but I don't have a clue as to what a nice
one should go for.  I'd prefer a '70-'72 VC due to some parts
interchangability with the 442, but would also consider a '68 or '69.
Either way the VC would have to have a big block.

Thanks for letting me ramble, please reply with any comments/solutions,
offers to buy my car for $20,000, or offers to sell me a sweet 442
convertible for $100.

- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 10:49:32 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: What kind of conv. top to get?

I called around for price quotes to get a new white top installed on
my '71 cutlass.  Prices are around $450-$500 with a new glass window,
top, and pads.  It seems that all the installers want to use their own
brand of tops, and not the original kind like Year One sells.  The one
shop that I think I'll use has to two tops, a single and then a double
thickness.  He says the thinner top will last longer because the thick
one doesn't fold as well and cracks with repeated usage.

what have other list members used?  Any tips on finding a good shop
and getting a quality job done?

thanks,
greg

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 11:57:12 EDT
From: <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: I'm Back (who cares?)Springfield Nat's

Just got back from Springfield and had a wonderful time! Went on all of the
lincoln things, saw a lot of beautiful cars, picked up a few things at the
swap meet like decals from Mark Cornea, '70 power window switches, 2 8-track
tape decks and three cases, a ton of little things from Specialty Olds, and
saw a lot of fellow list members. I saw Chris Smetana, Tom Williams, Bryce
Smith, Bill Rielly, Everett Horton, and many more! Drove my car 3 hours and
ran fine. I picked up a second place trophy which I am proud of and met a lot
of nice people! A really interesting incident that happend Saturday morning...
A guy who owned a 70 Rally Red W30 wrote a sign and placed it in front of his
car telling people not to buy from a certain parts vendor telling how he was
sent the wrong parts, got the wrong parts, and a ton of other complaints. Well
this certain parts vendor found out about the sign and went over to the guys
car trying to rip the sign up and take a swipe at the guy who wrote the sign.
The vendor wasn't to succesful because there were at least 20 guys agreeing
that this parts vendor was bad and were on this guy's side. A very interesting
incident!!! All in all I thought thaty Springfield was great! There were over
575 cars, and each one was nicer than the next!
Did I miss any important List Messages?
Jim McKeague
1970 Cutlass W31
1970 Rallye 350
http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html ">
http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html</A>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 11:05:09 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: timing problem further diagnosed (long)

I had the previous post about fluctuating timing along with the timing
light flashing all over the balancer (90, and 180 degrees).  I had an
MSD-6AL, Mallory Unilite, and Blaster coil.  I took the MSD out of the
loop and the problem got better, but not solved.

Everytime I set the timing and went for a ride, it would change again.
I then found out that I had lost all advance and the timing would stay
the same at all RPM's.

I pulled the Mallory distributor out and took it all apart.  In the
bottom, where the mechanical advance is, was full of dirt and crap.  I
cleaned it all up and lubed the weights and pivots.  Then I sucked on
the vacuum advance hose to find out the diaphragm is ruptured and
leaking.  Ah ha!  No vacuum advance AND a vacuum leak.

Also, I had the spark plug wires "clocked" on the cap the same as the
factory service manual has them shown, which is wrong.  The rotor is
supposed to point to an arrow on the optic pickup for the #1cylinder
and the #1 wire starts at that point on the cap.  I had all the wires
in the right order and the rotor pointed at the #1, but it was all in
the wrong place.  I moved all the wires around and reset the
distributor correctly.

Now the timing doesn't vary and I'm not getting any sparks elsewhere
on the balance marks.  I'm getting 5-10 degrees mechanical advance on
top of the 12 I have at idle.  There's no vacuum advance yet as I just
ordered the parts.

Runs much better, I can't wait for the vacuum advance to be working.
Then I can reinstall the MSD unit.

Should the mechanical advance be more than 5-10?  Anyone know how to
adjust the Mallory unit?  I have the plastic stepped "key" for it, but
I don't know what to do with it.

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 12:32:27 EDT
From: <Dfd414@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Olds List

Please stop sending me junk mail
thank you for taking my name off your list.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 12:34:17 EDT
From: <MFATZII@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Olds List

awe man ...another loser

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 10:03:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: "John L. Walker" <up497@victoria.tc.ca>
Subject: rust in 83 cutlass

I am removing the rust in an 83 cutlass sedan.  The worst rust is in the
frame rear of the springs.  Can this be repaired by cutting out the rust
then welding in part of the frame where the body mounts are. Or do I need
a new frame.  Is the frame the same as other GM "g" bodies.  Thanks in
advance  John Walker in Sooke B.C. Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 13:49:17 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: '72 VIN's {Location to look + possible typo}

>However, just CURIOUS, is it Framingham or Framington:


It's Framingham, Mass. Sorry, sometimes the fingers don't type what my brain
is thinking.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 10:45:01 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Chrome SSIs (was: wheel choices)

ss1  14x 6 14x7 15x7 and pretty much any size you can get a tire for with
about any offset you could ask for  they are very nice wheels they do good
work but they do charge accordingly...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave Cullen <david.cullen@snet.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, July 19, 1998 4:41 AM
Subject: Re: Chrome SSIs (was: wheel choices)


>>There is a section on our website that has color photos of most of the
>>442 wheels including the all chrome '71 SSI.  This will help you see
>>which wheel is which.  The web site address is
>>
>>http://www.flash.net/~texas442/
>>
>>Click on:    442 wheels
>>
>~VERY~ nicely done wheel pics. This site should be referenced whenever
>someone wants to know about SS wheels.
>
>Now, which one of these babies are being repro'ed by Stockton, anybody
know?
>
>drc
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 10:53:37 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: steering wheel pulling help!

well you need to take off the lock plate dont know what plastic piece you
are refering to but there is a sheetmetal cover held on by three screws then
the lock plate held on by a wire ring at the shaft you need to compress it
with a tool for this or press really hard on it while a helper pops the ring
out with a screwdriver or two then you are at the ts switch remove the three
screws holding it unsnap it from the remainder of the switch then reassemble
it in reverse order..kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tom Lardner <lardner@UMDNJ.EDU>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, July 19, 1998 7:53 AM
Subject: steering wheel pulling help!


>Hey guys,
>I'm changing the turn signal cam on my dad's 85 Cutlass Salon, and I got
>the wheel off, and I'm wondering how you get the plastic casing under the
>wheel off.  It covers the cam.  I don't want to break it, so I stopped
>what I was doing and came in to the computer!  :)  Gotta love technology.
>Please help if you know!
>Thanks
>Tom
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 11:27:04 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: steering wheel pulling help!

You need a lock plate compressor.  It can be done without the tool, but the
tool is worth it's weight in saved frustration.  Less than $15 at an
auto-parts store, you could probably rent one too.  It pushes that plastic
plate down so that you can get the circular clip off of the center.  Without
the tool you need about 9 hands to do the job right.

Tom Lardner wrote:

> Hey guys,
> I'm changing the turn signal cam on my dad's 85 Cutlass Salon, and I got
> the wheel off, and I'm wondering how you get the plastic casing under the
> wheel off.  It covers the cam.  I don't want to break it, so I stopped
> what I was doing and came in to the computer!  :)  Gotta love technology.
> Please help if you know!
> Thanks
> Tom

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 13:19:05 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 87 442 how much is it worth?

I would give the guy about $1000.00. It WILL cost you ALOT to get that car
in decent shape again, trust me, I have restored cars and IT ALL ADDS UP IN
THE END. Every litttle nut and bolt all add up. Figure out what all the
parts(not labor) will cost you and times that by two.
Don't give him more than a grand.....

- ----------
> From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 87 442 how much is it worth?
> Date: Saturday, July 18, 1998 9:52 AM
>
> Hey guys & gals, need your help. Looked at a 1987 442 today needs the
> following:
> passenger front fender & door
> all engine gaskets (leaks oil like my 68 442 eats gas)
> header pannel, grill
> front turn signal lenses & front bumper and rear lenses(both)
> headliner & shift nob & no radio
> car has 160000 miles (southern car)
> runs alright 307 roller motor(has a rough idle, needs carb rebuilt)
> interior all there just dirty and a mess
> t-tops, rims and all other options too
> has minor body rust (mostly surface, 1 small hole)
> car is black and silver(needs a paint job, rock chips) with silver/light
blue
> interior
> guy want$2000. help me out here. is it worth it?
> Thanks Chris

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 14:53:46 EDT
From: <SSpuehler@aol.com>
Subject: Alcohol

Thought that subject heading would get a lot of viewing.....haha

Now for the subject matter, has anyone ever mixed rubbing (denatured) alcohol
in with their gas?

Will it cause any damage to the engine?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 13:02:42 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: LIST REMOVAL AND GUIDELINES

Sorry to shout but...

Dfd414@aol.com wrote:
>
> Please stop sending me junk mail
> thank you for taking my name off your list.

aol.com wrote:
>
> awe man ...another loser

For those of you who are ~also~ considerring "ending it all!" don't tell us
we're sending you junk mail...  It's exactly what you signed up for.  It's also
spelled out very clearly in the welcome letter that you're supposed to read 
~and
save~.  I keep a link for a FAQ about this kind of crap in my *sig file below,
and make it ~overly~ noticeable for those who may have trouble spotting bricks
on the forehead.....

Jeeeeeez
- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 14:02:24 -0500
From: "Dr. David Ritter" <dritter@semovm.semo.edu>
Subject: Re: juice brakes (non-mopar)

Ed:
I recommend that you check into this before deciding on using the Buick
brakes just because you have them. The brakes off of something in your local
junkyard may be a much easier swap.  I have a later model (1946) Chevy truck
with I-beam and the front Bendix brakes off of a 53-54 Chevy car bolted on
with just two of the mounting holes redrilled.

As long as you are doing the brake upgrade, I would recommend going to front
disks if you can. You may want to check with Master Power to see if they
have a kit for your application.
David Ritter

At 12:52 PM 7/16/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Does anyone here know about putting juice brakes onto an old i beam
>axle?  The '25 Chevy .......
>The buick has drum brakes, and its from the 70s - not sure what year.
>
>
David Ritter
Department of Chemistry
Southeast Missouri State University
dritter@semovm.semo.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 12:11:17 PDT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: TX HeatWave

Is anyone making it to the Texas HeatWave Car Show in Austin, TX?
Aptly named, it's a hot one today.

See ya there.  Had to take Zippy.

Later,

Chris Rivier
'66 Delta 88  "The BEAST" LUXURY LINER.
'88 Festiva  "ZIPPY" 163K+@ 40 mpg, neeed I say more.


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 13:21:50 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: steering wheel pulling help!

> well you need to take off the lock plate dont know what plastic piece you
> are refering to but there is a sheetmetal cover held on by three screws

Older ones screwed on.  Newer ones snapped in place.  There are three slots on
the outer rim of the trimplate there.  You need to get a flat screwdriver in
them and pry it off.  You'll see as it starts to move.

> the lock plate held on by a wire ring at the shaft you need to compress it
> with a tool for this or press really hard on it while a helper pops the ring

The tool is a lifesaver there, but it is possible without it.  Albeit a pain in
the !$!#@.

DO THIS FIRST!!!!!!!!!
Before taking that snap ring off, tilt the column to a straight line position
(so it's not tilted up or down any, the same "wheel position" a non-tilter 
would
occupy.  Then, take the tilt lever, and unscrew it.  Pull it completely out of
there.  That step's not required for removing any turn signal parts, but it 
will
save your a$# to get it out.

Here's what happens.  When you go to slide the new cable through the column, 
you
realize you want the tilt in a different position.  So you pull the lever,
without really thinking about the consequences.  Since there's no heavy wheel 
on
there to hang on to, that spring in there is ~very~ active.  It tilts up.
Quickly.  Very quickly.  Probably violently enough to launch items into orbit.
The only thing that launches, though, is the bearing retainer down under that
heavy lock plate spring.  Trust me, that's enough to cause you some serious
headaches.  I've seen many columns screwed up this way.  My Toro did that  (ok,
ok, ~I~ did it, but...)  A buddy's 442 had the same thing happen.  They didn't
realize it and tried putting it all back togethet that way.  Didn't work.
Couldn't compress the spring enough (cause it wouldn't go all the way down)
They ~cut~ the spring to make it fit!  Still wouldn't work right for 'em.  When
I got there, they were both cussing...alot.  I pulled a new spring out of my
parts car out back (convenient, eh?) and started tearing pieces off.  Reset 
the
bearing race in there (time consuming, and can make the Pope violate a certain
few commandments, if you catch my drift)  Got it together, and it worked right.
Had to reset the race in my 83 (which was the last one I'd done, gone
flawlessly, until I ~again~ hit the tilt lever!!!  <dummy!>)  It works.  The
Toro was the disaster of 'em all, though.  The ball bearings launched with the
retainer.  Ended up on the floor somewhere.  Got it back together as much as
possible, but never right.  It doesn't have a lock plate anymore...  Which is
fine, I guess, windows roll down with the key off, too ;)

You'll also need to drop the column at the base of the dash.  Two large nuts,
and four smaller bolts (15 and 13mm, respectively)  Don't forget to disconnect
the shift indicator cord.  Don't forget to hook in back up ;)  You'll then need
to pop out the large plastic outer column thing (the PRNDL's cord is snapped to
this) and let it flop freely.  Now you can disconnect the wiring harness and 
the
conduit loom it goes through.  You may want to check that cruise control knob
now, too.  NAPA sells repros of it, in chrome, black, delay, and standard.
They're proud of 'em...  Proud enough that ~I~ can't attest to their quality.
About $65 worth, so I still don't have cruise...  Anyway, if yours is shot,
now's the time to replace it.  You'll have to do this all over again, if you
replace it later.

Getting the harness down the column and through that conduit requires a bit of
patience.  And holding your tongue in the correct position, I hear...

Take your time, and best of luck!


Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 15:29:40 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Alcohol

In a message dated 98-07-19 14:55:49 EDT, you write:

<< Now for the subject matter, has anyone ever mixed rubbing (denatured)
alcohol in with their gas? >>

Ummmmm

"Denatured" means that is NOT straight alcohol.
It is "spiked" (or use your own term) with other stuff.
Essentially this is to keep people from drinking it.

As for your car, I think the bottle label says it all-

For External Use Only!

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 12:48:15 -0700
From: babyboo@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: cars for sale

- --------------A9A1A7EAC484EA945C96A8CE
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I'd like to see about getting hold of  the sales broshure for the
70-442.

Rodney Dickman wrote:

> Hello Olds list:
>
> I have a steering wheel I want to sell. It is the black
> sport style 442 style from a 1970 442. It is in very good
> condition. What is it worth? I see in Hemmings a range from
> $100 to $175.
>
> Also have some 1970 442 sales brochures and a 1969 Road a
> Track with the 442 test drive in it.
>
> Thanks
> Rodney Dickman



- --------------A9A1A7EAC484EA945C96A8CE
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML>
I'd like to see about getting hold of&nbsp; the sales broshure for the
70-442.

<P>Rodney Dickman wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>Hello Olds list:

<P>I have a steering wheel I want to sell. It is the black
<BR>sport style 442 style from a 1970 442. It is in very good
<BR>condition. What is it worth? I see in Hemmings a range from
<BR>$100 to $175.

<P><A NAME="Also have some 1970 442 sales brochures and a 1969"></A>Also
have some 1970 442 sales brochures and a 1969 Road a
<BR>Track with the 442 test drive in it.

<P>Thanks
<BR>Rodney Dickman</BLOCKQUOTE>
&nbsp;</HTML>

- --------------A9A1A7EAC484EA945C96A8CE--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 15:04:26 -0500
From: Albert Meyer <Olds@AustinTX.net>
Subject: Re: Alcohol

I have used it a couple of times. When you get water in your gas tank it is
a big problem because the water is heavier than alcohol and it stays on the
bottom of your tank (or carb). Rubbing alcohol will mix with the water and
make it go on through. I don't know scientifically how this works, but I
had a truck that wasn't running right because of water in the tank, and a
bottle of rubbing alcohol fixed it right up.

At 02:53 PM 7/19/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Thought that subject heading would get a lot of viewing.....haha
>
>Now for the subject matter, has anyone ever mixed rubbing (denatured) alcohol
>in with their gas?
>
>Will it cause any damage to the engine?
>
'68 98 Convertible 455 - Still looking for a parts car
Austin, Texas mailto:Olds@AustinTX.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 15:05:04 -0500
From: Gregory Howze <"ghowze@primary.net"@primary.net>
Subject: Re: Hi! I am new

craig g broussard wrote:
>
> Hi,
> My names is Adam Broussard. I am 15. I am buying my first car tomorrow
> (Sat.).
> The car is a 1962 Olds Cutlass F-85 Convertible. I live in Baton Rouge, La
> adam
congrats adam. how much are you paying for it?
scott (19)
71 cut conv.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 16:13:21 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Alcohol

In a message dated 98-07-19 16:06:05 EDT, you write:

<<  Rubbing alcohol will mix with the water and
 make it go on through.  >>

     Isn't rubbing alcohol cut with water? Stuff I have says
70%alcohol...whats the other stuff? It's methyl or ethyl you want I
believe...also helps your engine run "cleaner" for say, emissions : )   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 16:14:51 EDT
From: <OJUNEBUGGO@aol.com>
Subject: Re: TX HeatWave

I am says an Austin resident!

$Roger

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 16:52:56 -0400
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: 442 Interior

Message text written by Mark Tupper
>FYI, the original interior on 442s is Medium Dark Gray.<

One available color was Medium Gray in 1987.  Also available was Teal Blue
(what I have), Dark Claret (maroon), and Light Saddle (I have never seen
this one on a 442) depending on exterior color.

BTW - the car you mention sounds like it needs too much work to make
original - many pieces are no longer available.

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E & 4L60-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division
'96 DCM - '87 442  -  '95 Grand Prix

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 16:52:59 -0400
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: '87 442 performance mods (tranny and chip)

Message text written by Mark Tupper
>The car (right now) is completely original. I do have plans for
the (light duty) Hypertech chip, and B & M shift kit.
<

My '87 442 has been to the track (Norwalk Ohio) a few times.  Completely
stock both when new and after 10 years it ran 16.4 to 16.5 @ 82 mph.

With B&M shift kit (not a good choice, I ended up doing my own mods to the
tranny) and Hypertech Stage II chip, it runs 16.2 to 16.3.

I now have my own custom made chip and my modified tranny mods.  I haven't
been back to the track yet, but I expect to run about 16.0-16.2 (determined
by runiing before and after runs with G-Tech pro and determining the
incremental improvement.)

The engine likes to be cool, but not too cold or it will bog.  Do not go
through water or burn off tires.  Power brake up to about 1800 RPM andn
leave on third yellow light.  Do not shift manually - to easy to over rev -
and the Olds 307 does not breathe well above 5000 RPM even though it has a
5500 redline.  Let the tranny shift itself.

Norwalk does not require helmets at that speed, but some do.


The Hypertech chip only advances ignition timing 5 degrees at WOT..  A lot
of money (over $100) for just a timing adjustment. I believe the lighter
duty Hypertech chip only advances timing 3 degrees which you can do with
just a base timing adjustment.  If Hypertech had found the converter lockup
points to raise them, it would be worth it.  E-mail me privately if you
would like a custom chip (timing) made for less.  Or I have a Hypertech
chip for sale, only used for 2 weeks - all original packaging and warranty
card.  I advance WOT timing 10-12 degrees which feels stronger, and still
does not spark knock on 92 octane fuel.  (My 442 always has required
premium ever since new).

B&M shift kit doesn't do much other than provide you with a new pressure
regulator spring, a Line Bias valve spring, a couple of accumulator
spacers, and drill bits to drill out holes in the spacer plate.  I tried a
couple of variations and was not happy with the results.  The 1-2 never
firmed up at WOT much.  I ended up taking the B&M parts out, putting in a
Grand National 1-2 servo piston and cover assembly, and drilling oout the
valve body spacer plate a little more.  Now the 1-2 shift is firm but not
harsh at part throttle, at WOT it will squawk both tires.  A little more
expensive (GN parts are about $75 total), but better results and the bigger
GN piston will hold the 1-2 band more firmly than the stock 442 piston
extending band life.

If you want to get a good shift kit, talk to Mike Kurtz.  He uses a
modified Trans Go kit.  The Grand National guys swear by Mike that he is
the best - and with the power of the turbo 6, they should know.



Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E & 4L60-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division
'96 DCM - '87 442  -  '95 Grand Prix

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 15:54:23 -0500
From: Larry Martino <lmmsr@flash.net>
Subject: (no subject)



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 15:54:30 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Re: 442 Interior

Steve Ochs wrote:
>
> Message text written by Mark Tupper
> >FYI, the original interior on 442s is Medium Dark Gray.<
>
> One available color was Medium Gray in 1987.  Also available was Teal Blue
> (what I have), Dark Claret (maroon), and Light Saddle (I have never seen
> this one on a 442) depending on exterior color.
>
> BTW - the car you mention sounds like it needs too much work to make
> original - many pieces are no longer available.
>
> Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
> Transmission Division (4T60/65-E & 4L60-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
> The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
> statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division
> '96 DCM - '87 442  -  '95 Grand Prix


Just curious on this subject - I am considering getting another mid-80's
442 - are their any interior restoration parts available yet? I am
primarily thinking seat covers, door panels, and the plastic trim.


Thanks

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 15:12:47 PDT
From: "Shadow Fox" <ladykitsu@hotmail.com>
Subject: Carb questions, opinions please

Greets everyone-
  My carb is fried and I need a few *opinions* on what I should do about
it, it's a 4 barrel on a 455...anyway should I get this one rebuilt or
should I get an aftermarket carb like Holly or Carter?  Of course I'd
like to also know *why* you think one or the other...I'd like to get it
back on the road (especially since my primary driver has been having a
few problems here and there). I'm not interested in 100% accuraccy as
Pook will never be in the show quality range :)

  On the brighter side in the next few months I will be taking a little
day class sponsored by Burns & Parks (an Olds body specialist) up here
in the Dallas area...I'll get to learn how to do some of the body repair
on my own (which is good since with everything breaking down on either
my car or my truck I may never get to pay someone to fix her up
<grin>)...I'll have plenty of time to figger out how to take the front
fender off without messing anything up :}

  Anyway, thanks for any and all carb suggestions that ya'll have.

Laura
66 Delta 88 aka Pook the ghost car
Dallas, TX

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 18:23:06 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: 455 block

I need a 455 short block in rebuildable condition. I will be boring it out
and putting new pistons so a smoker is OK as long as it's just smoking from
the rings. I don't need the heads or sheet metal, just the short block. I am
in Kentucky where it meets Tennessee and Virginia (southeastern corner) and
will drive a reasonable distance (100-200 miles) to pick it up. Can anyone
help. E-mail me privately. comid@jellico.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 18:33:49 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: rust in 83 cutlass

Yes, I think this frame is the same as in most other G-Bodies (wagons and El
Caminos are probably an exception).  From what I *hear* (my 1984 doesn't
have any rust on the frame, so I don't know personally), this is a common
problem and most body specialists should have seen this before.  Depending
on how bad yours is, a good body man should be able to patch that back up.
You may or may not get back any structural rigidity, but at least the rust
will stop spreading.

Jason Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock/

- -----Original Message-----
From: John L. Walker <up497@victoria.tc.ca>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, July 19, 1998 1:12 PM
Subject: rust in 83 cutlass


>I am removing the rust in an 83 cutlass sedan.  The worst rust is in the
>frame rear of the springs.  Can this be repaired by cutting out the rust
>then welding in part of the frame where the body mounts are. Or do I need
>a new frame.  Is the frame the same as other GM "g" bodies.  Thanks in
>advance  John Walker in Sooke B.C. Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 17:35:43 -0600 (MDT)
From: Steve Utick <sutick@mt.net>
Subject: Re: Finally got some pictures up

On Sun, 12 Jul 1998, Greg Beaulieu wrote:

>
> That's a neat looking car. Is that the original Lime Green you've
> repainted it? That isn't normally one of my favorite shades but it looks
> nice on yours. There is a '71 Cutlass 4-door here that was that color
> originally and was repainted a couple of years ago and it looks kinda ...
> umm... (trying to be nice)... well, let's say it's not the color I would
> have chosen. Yours looks different from it, and much nicer.

Yep, it's the original color.  That Lime Green is one of those colors that
does not look good on all body styles, but I think it looks great on the
70's cutlass/442.

> Wouldn't it
> be nice to pay $10 and change for the interior hood lock now, and $3800
> for the whole car?

Yes...  I wish I could find a hood lock, as mine is broken and has been
removed before I got the car...

>
> Do you have any story about why Ms. Violet bought a 4-4-2 back then?

Yep, sure do.  Violet was my grandmother.  The car actually belonged to my
uncle.  He was I think 18 or 19 at the time, and the car was just bought
in his mothers name.  Thanks for the compliments!!

- -------------------------
Steve Utick
From the Heart of MONTANA
sutick@mt.net
http://www.mt.net/~sutick
_________________________

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 17:37:20 -0600 (MDT)
From: Steve Utick <sutick@mt.net>
Subject: Re: Finally got some pictures up

Ummm...  Actually, no.  We've got I think about a dozen prefixes right
here in Helena at the moment...

On Sun, 12 Jul 1998, Arthur Hoffman wrote:

> The entire state of Montana probably takes about 3 prefixes, right?
>
> Oldsmagnet wrote:
> >
> > > DId you notice the phone # of the dealer on the invoice??
> >
> > I forgot to look, but I do seem to remember Helena using a 442-prefix.
Almost > > enough to make me want to move there!

- -------------------------
Steve Utick
From the Heart of MONTANA
sutick@mt.net
http://www.mt.net/~sutick
_________________________

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 17:39:12 -0600 (MDT)
From: Steve Utick <sutick@mt.net>
Subject: RE: Finally got some pictures up

Nope, sure haven't.  I've still got them hanging in the garage if anyone
wants the though...  Genuile Hooker Side Pipes, going cheap!

On Mon, 13 Jul 1998, Proietto, Fernando [Ontario] wrote:

> Nice car. Ever think about adding the side pipes again?.....don't do it....
>
> > I've been lurking on the list for quite a while.  Really enjoyed a lot of
> > the discussions.  I finally decided to dust off the scanner and get some
> > pictures of my 71 442 up on a web page.  If anyone cares to take a look,
> > they are at: http://www.mt.net/~sutick/olds
> >
> > Let me know what ya think....
> >

- -------------------------
Steve Utick
From the Heart of MONTANA
sutick@mt.net
http://www.mt.net/~sutick
_________________________

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 19:50:46 -0000
From: "erik HILL" <ehill@gowebway.com>
Subject: goody bags

	

does anyone know how to get your good bag if you didn't make it to the
nationals   ???


erik

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 20:00:13 EDT
From: <MrExMt@aol.com>
Subject: Nationals

Hi all,
I just returned from Springfield, & to all those who missed it, It was a great
show, great weather, & great people, & my car made it the 1275 miles round
trip!

Leigh Tenenholtz
'68 Cutlass S Convert

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 20:41:23 EDT
From: <Cnvrt67@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Chrome SSIs (was: wheel choices)

the chrome 14x7 ss1's were only offered on the 71 sx's. so there arent that
many out there. i have a set of 14x6 ss1's for sale if anyone is interested.

Brent
Cnvrt67@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 21:28:18 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: rust in 83 cutlass

On Sun, 19 Jul 1998, John L. Walker wrote:
> I am removing the rust in an 83 cutlass sedan.  The worst rust is in the
> frame rear of the springs.  Can this be repaired by cutting out the rust
> then welding in part of the frame where the body mounts are. Or do I need
> a new frame.  Is the frame the same as other GM "g" bodies.  Thanks in
> advance  John Walker in Sooke B.C. Canada

A very common problem around here. GM used to make a repair kit for these
I'm told -- no longer available, but any good welding/body shop should be
able to fab new pieces. A guy here apparently has them made up and in
stock, it's so common.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 21:30:51 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Carb questions, opinions please

Laura, I'd get the Q-jet redone by someone who knows Qjets, assuming the
carb body is in good shape (no warps), the fuel inlet isn't stripped out,
etc. Just a lot less hassle to deal with the carb that's supposed to be
on there as opposed to an aftermarket one. Plus the Qjet is a good carb
overall.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 21:19:41 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Carb questions, opinions please

If you have a '66 Delta with a 455 in it, I will presume a transplant since
it came with a 425.  Nonetheless, the carb of choice for you will be the
Q-Jet.  This carb can deliver very accurate metering of fuel in a reliable
package that you already own and bolts right up.  Do not discount the
benefits of an auto part that 'bolts right up".  This is very desirable in a
thirty year old car.  The Holley carbs have been finicky and problematical.
I can't speak to the Carters, because I have not used one since I had a '57
DeSoto Adventurer convertible in the '60's.  This Hemi powered unit had two
Carter quads on it.  Neither one was impressive.  The Q-Jet, on the other
hand, is.  I don't know what "fried" means in a carb, but the ills that
visit Q-Jets are few, predictable and easily rectified, my vote is for the
stock carb.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 22:21:09 EDT
From: <JCRASH7@aol.com>
Subject: What to do?

As many of you may know, I really want a G Body Cutlass.  Now, I found an 84
H/O for sale for 1500.  Ad says perfect car, complete except steering column.
Also has no title, great parts car.  I can't remember exactly right now, but I
believe it said it runs good too.  Now, I can't go out and just buy it, my
financial state of being is next to nothing.  I would have to sell my Delta.
I have had offers for $3000, so you can get a general idea of the condition of
my Delta.  I also don't have near the time to go about trying to get a title
for it.  What I was thinking was, sell the Delta, buy the car, take the
SSIII's, rallye pack and shifter, and sell the rest of the parts to anyone who
wants or needs them, or sell the rest of the car as a whole.  Then, try and
get some more $$, and look for a Cutlass (with a center console and V8 of
course), and fit the wheels, rallye pack and shifter in.  Sound good?  Will I
be able to find enough buyers for the parts so I don't go bankrupt?  Or a
buyer for the car?  I might leave the rally pack in if I find someone who
wants the whole car, and maybe the shifter.  The wheels are mine though. :)
Sound good?

Joe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 20:42:46 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: What to do?

> As many of you may know, I really want a G Body Cutlass.  Now, I found an 84
> H/O for sale for 1500.  Ad says perfect car, complete except steering column.
> Also has no title, great parts car.

I don't know...  Sounds sickening.  I can't stomach parting out a car that's
described as "perfect."  Title or no.  It's a Hurst Olds, it's a definate
keeper.  Columns are easy enough to come by, and titles ~are~ achievealbe,
although some need more work.  Find out why there's now title, and get back to
me, us, whatever.  If you need G body parts, they're easy enough to come by.  I
know what ~I'd~ do.  However, the financial situation does play a role,
~especially~ if financing is necessary.  Hard to put a lien on a title that
don't exist.

Find out why there's no title, and get back to us.  $3K can make you a pretty
nice H/O if only half is needed :)

As far as title time, the state might get you a 60 day sticker during the 
titles
search.  Hopefully.  Good luck, and keep us posted!



Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 22:46:21 -0400
From: oldsluvr@bellatlantic.net
Subject: Re: What to do?

JCRASH7@aol.com wrote:
>
> As many of you may know, I really want a G Body Cutlass.  Now, I found an 84
> H/O for sale for 1500.  Ad says perfect car, complete except steering column.
> Also has no title, great parts car.  I can't remember exactly right now, but 
I
> believe it said it runs good too.  Now, I can't go out and just buy it, my
> financial state of being is next to nothing.  I would have to sell my Delta.
> I have had offers for $3000, so you can get a general idea of the condition 
of
> my Delta.  I also don't have near the time to go about trying to get a title
> for it.  What I was thinking was, sell the Delta, buy the car, take the
> SSIII's, rallye pack and shifter, and sell the rest of the parts to anyone 
who
> wants or needs them, or sell the rest of the car as a whole.  Then, try and
> get some more $$, and look for a Cutlass (with a center console and V8 of
> course), and fit the wheels, rallye pack and shifter in.  Sound good?  Will I
> be able to find enough buyers for the parts so I don't go bankrupt?  Or a
> buyer for the car?  I might leave the rally pack in if I find someone who
> wants the whole car, and maybe the shifter.  The wheels are mine though. :)
> Sound good?
>
> Joe
Greetings to all. I'm new to the list.
I really didn't have time to mail anybody right now, but I felt it was
important to give you my 2 cents worth, And I think some will agree with
me. Being new I don't know your whole story, or this cars story. But at
the risk of stepping on some toes here......BUYER BEWARE !!!!!!!
Think about this for a minute.......NO TITLE-----NO STEERING
COLUMN.....SO CHEAP.......Hmmmmm.....When a car is stolen, that is what
they break to steal it. If this car is so "perfect", why will they not
take the time and go thru the proper channels to obtain a title ??? I
know it can be a lot of red tape to go thru but...... Why would someone
take such a loss on one of these cars ???, they could get a couple of
grand easy.
Just some food for thought.......E.J.
P.S. I could be wrong.....but you never know....I say it sounds to good
to be true. My appologize to the person with the car if I am wrong.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 22:56:32 EDT
From: <JCRASH7@aol.com>
Subject: Re: What to do?

Yes, as a response to Charley and EJ, the thought of the car stolen has
crossed my mind.  That is why parting it out would be my choice.  If I find
out the car is stolen and belongs to someone else, I am out of my wonderful
Delta and 1500 bucks.  Now I really don't even want to CONSIDER selling my
Delta unless I can be happy with the replacement.  The owner hasn't gotten
back to me yet on why there is no title.  Anyway, I can always go and look, as
the owner is from Minneapolis, and I live in a suburb of there.  I also asked
him if he wanted to sell the wheels only, as that is my main purpose of buying
the car.  Who knows, if he's selling the wheels, I might end up with a sharp
looking Delta.  I will update the list when (if) my email is answered.

Joe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 22:02:58 -0500
From: "Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
Subject: Re: What to do? [LONG]

Joe,

Oh man...I'm replying privately 'cause I don't want to start another SSIII
war on the list. :-)

Sounds like you are really set on getting the SSIII rims. I can't blame
you. You see, I just spent $1600 for the last set of NOS 442 SSIII's from
a Mass dealer. Now, by last set, I mean that could be found in the GM
Parts locator system. It's a long and painful story......

Now, I've heard of the SSIII rims coming available from time to time in
various locations. Rumors have it that Chris Brown Witt has a set for
sale (442 rims with the gold center), for around $1000. Anyway, they
ARE NOT easy to come by, but if you keep your eyes open you CAN
find them. Are you looking for 14" or 15" (442)? The 15" rims are
significantly harder to get, but if you're just looking for a Cutlass, you
would have better luck with 14" rims, as that's usually what they came
with. I have a couple myself, although I'm not sure if they're straight.
I'll check if you want, and sell 'em cheap. I think I have at least two.

You should be able to find a NICE Cutlass for around $2000. If I were
you, I'd think about selling the Delta, and take the difference to look
around for the rims. You're taking an incredible risk just hoping to find
someone that wants the H/O. While it's possible to go that route, I would
think it COULD take a lot longer to accomplish it, although you come out
with the rims you want and the eventual return of your investment.

Another option, though you discounted it is to get the title for the H/O. I
don't have any personal knowledge of what it takes to get a lost title
replaced, and it depends on where you are, but it can be done. Then
you'd have the G Body, AND the rims...on a classic machine. I'd say it
would be worth the extra $1500 you have to play with to get it going.

This is just my 2 cents, based on my own past mistakes <g>

Let me know,

- -Mark Tupper    1987 442    (OCA 30666)
 mtupper@palacenet.net        http://www.cyberglyphs.com/442/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 23:05:59 EDT
From: <Cnvrt67@aol.com>
Subject: the nationals at springfield

got back from springfield. it was a o.k. show in my opinion. lots of cars
which was nice. i was extremely dissapointed with the swap meet though. in my
opinion it was very small for the nationals. so, once though the swap a few
times each day and looking at cars, what was there to do? went to lincolns
house but besides that.........nothing, unless you like playing in corn
fields. so besides the meet there wasnt much else to do. so saturday night i
went to the local hardy's where they were having a cruzin in. until this point
the trip was ok.....but there rolled in the 69 H/O convertible. more on that
in the next letter. so in my opinion the hotle was nice and
everything.......but the city sucked. my .02 and i hope i didnt offend anyone.

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 20:01:37 PDT
From: "Shadow Fox" <ladykitsu@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Carb questions, opinions please

>Carbs are rarely "fried"- they have very few moving parts.  The OEM
>Rochester carbs on these cars are really solid engineering (for the
time),
>and can be easily and cheaply returned to "like new" condition.  Would
not
>recommend doing it yourself.  I had my 2 barrel redone several years
ago- it
>was $50 for parts and labor.  Works great.
>
>A poorly running engine is often blamed on the carb incorrectly- got
any
>vacuum leaks? mechanical and vacuum advance working right on
distributor?
>vapor recovery set up correctly? secondary ignition in good shape?

Well, fried, as in the choke portion was rigged when I got it, but the
whole thing has since gone kaput. The engine has been recently rebuilt,
though there may *also* be a problem with the headers...but the carb is
definantly in need of rebuilding or replacement. If I go the way of
rebuild, I've already had a few recommendations so I won't have to worry
about *that* at least.

Laura
66 Delta 88 aka Pook
Dallas, TX

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 21:15:28 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: What to do?

the thought of the car stolen has
> crossed my mind.  That is why parting it out would be my choice.  If I find
> out the car is stolen and belongs to someone else, I am out of my wonderful
> Delta and 1500 bucks.

If it were to turn out stolen, and get traced through you, you'd also be
charged, and probably be held liable for anything sold etc, etc...  Which would
really suck...  Since the car is near you, go look at it, and write down the 
VIN
#.  Then call the courthouse and have them run a check on the number, to see
it's "official" status.  Or the police.  You definately owe it to yourself to
take that precaution in advance.  They'd probably give you the name/address of
the current owner, and you can match wits from there.

OTOH, if it ~is~ stolen (and doesn't belong to any of us on the list) you could
go "repossess" parts of it, like wheels, etc. and ~then~ call the cops on the
guy!!!!!  Hard to report parts stolen when cops find a stolen car in your
backyard!!! (you didn't hear it from me, though! :)

Oh, did ~I~ suggest such a thing???  Shame on me!  ;)

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 22:56:32 -0400
From: Stephen Palomba <spalomba@IDT.NET>
Subject: 65 Vista Cruiser roof rack.

Subscribers,

	I am looking for an original factory roof rack for a 1965 Olds Vista
Cruiser. If you have any information on where I might find one please
send E-Mail to spalomba@idt.net  .

TIA

Stephen

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 22:22:15 -0500
From: "Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
Subject: Re: What to do? [LONG]

>Oh man...I'm replying privately 'cause I don't want to start another SSIII
>war on the list. :-)


Whoops...I guess Charley's right... that paste function is harder than I
thought!

Sorry folks.

- -Mark Tupper    1987 442    (OCA 30666)
 mtupper@palacenet.net        http://www.cyberglyphs.com/442/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 21:26:45 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: NON Olds-Bookmark assistance???

Netscape dumped out half of my bookmark file, anyone had this happen?  It's
happened twice now.  Don't know why.  First time, all my "personal toolbar
bookmarks" got moved, and left only about half of 'em on the toolbar.  Moved 
'em
all back, and re-organized, and now, a few weeks later, they disappeared again!
But are completely gone.  Anyone have any experience with this?  Is there any
hope of having a trace file somewhere in cache or something that could allow a
revert?  Be nice to get my few pages of Olds bookmarks back! @#!$#^%$
- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 23:29:04 EDT
From: <JCRASH7@aol.com>
Subject: Re: What to do? [LONG]

Mark,  list, for the record, I don't have a Cutlass.  So the rims I would need
would have to be 15X7's, (Delta's rims' size).  You are right about nobody
wanting a H/O with no SSIII's, so if the car isn't stolen, I will probably buy
the car and fix the steering column.  I am no mechanic, so the car will have
to be mechanically sound.  I haven't seen any NICE Cutlasses around MN for
2000, up here they go around 5000.  I am in Texas now, and have seen tons of
pristine Oldsmobiles around, especially Cutlasses.  What I want to end up with
in the future is A G-Body Cutlass, preferably a 442, because they are cheaper
and less rare than a H/O.  I would get a H/O if I could get a good deal on it
(like this one).  What if they find the title and it belongs to someone else
who claims it stolen?  I am out of a car as said in previous message.  I don't
know.  I'll decide when I get a response from the seller.

joe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 23:31:31 EDT
From: <JCRASH7@aol.com>
Subject: Re: What to do?

Yes, when I get back on Friday, first thing I'll do is go see the car.  I will
copy the VIN and have it checked out.  If the car's stolen, it will be a loss
for me as I will need to continue my quest for a Cutlass further.

Joe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 23:34:28 EDT
From: <Cnvrt67@aol.com>
Subject: 69 H/O Convertible at Nats. (very interesting)

for those of you who know quite a bit about the 69 H/O convertible this might
bore you, but i think many people dont know much about this particular car
atleast. so let me begin...........

as i said in my last letter, i went to the local Hardy's where they were
having a cruz in. i was walking around and turn around and there is a 69 H/O
convertible pulling in. so i make my way over and start talking to the guy.
now im thinking....is this a real one or a fake? so i say to him.........this
must be quite a piece of history here. he replys " ya.....linda vaughn and doc
watson drove this one." YES!!!!!!! here's the real thing.

guy's name is Kelly Evans. very nice guy. so he starts to point out all the
little things on the car for instance:
1)on the consle there is a transmission fluid temp guage.
2) the consle in this car is one of a kind........it has wood grain wrapped
around the outside......very other H/O has a black outside.
3) has a little control button to adjust the pressure of the air bags in the
rear springs. the air bags were use the help keep the car up when the giant
hurst shifter was placed on it for parades.
4) has a "girls of america"??? sticker on the inside of the glove box because
linda vaughn was a member.

this is my favorite.
5) on the driver side door panel about 3/4 of the way up is a ash tray. why a
ash tray you ask. well doc watson was a smoker so he had a ash tray installed
there for convievce.

so after being enlightend by him for about 10 minutes, he tell me he also
knows where the other H/O convertible is. could you imagine owning 2?? well he
could have. he also said its a shame that the guy who owns it isnt a car guy
and never drives it anywhere. that is a shame.

he then tells me that he also owns a 69 w-30 convertible. and heres the other
car he is currently restoring.........
the 1968 Hurst Olds Proto type. yes you heard correctly. and what is special
about this car you ask.......its original color is black and GOLD.
unbelievable!!!!! says he wants to have it done for the nationals in denver in
2001. he told me he probebly wont be at the texas nationals cause its just
gonna be to darn hot. which is why i probebly wont be there. he said he
probebly wont make it to jersey for 2000 also. but who knows. he just might.
so at least be on the look out the 68 H/O proto type at the denver nationals.

by the way....the guy is from iowa, and he drives the car every where. he
doesnt trailer it or anything like that. top is down most of the time because
he wants to enjoy his car. which i think is great.

so in closing i would jsut like to say the owner of this 69 H/O convertible is
a very cool guy. and i hope some of you folks learned some interesting facts.
i know i did when i talked to him, and that 20 minutes talking to him and
looking at the car was what made the trip to springfield worth wild. Thanks

Late er
Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1377
*********************************
