Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1323


oldsmobile-digest        Monday, June 22 1998        Volume 01 : Number 1323



Re: opinions pls re  valley pan
Re: opinions pls re  valley pan
Re: opinions pls re  valley pan
RE: opinions pls re  valley pan
Air Cleaner question
power steering pully
Re: Electric fuel pump
Re: power steering pully
Re: Squeak
UNBOUNCE: Air Cleaner Recommendations
Re: UNBOUNCE: Air Cleaner Recommendations
Ralley Rims / Cam Bank Angle
RE: Need some opinions..!!!
Re: Backfires?
Re: Backfires?
RE: Backfires?
Re: Hubcaps
W-31 progress
Re: power steering pully
OOPS: Ralley Rims / Cam Bank Angle {IGNORE}
Wanted
refresh me...
Re: My NEW Domain!!!!!!!!!
Squeaks
yet another oil question, 10W-30 vs SAE -30
Re: refresh me...
RE: yet another oil question, 10W-30 vs SAE -30
Re: question about vendor for list
Re: Olds Homecoming - Bob Kerr's cars
Olds brakes
Re: W-31 progress
Re: Backfires?
Ripoff pricing
Re: How do you get even with your car?
RE: Backfires?
RE: Ripoff pricing
runs too rich (non olds...)
free heat shrink tube
Re: Backfires?
RE: Backfires?
am i an idiot...?
RE: am i an idiot...?
Re: How do you get even with your car?
Re: am i an idiot...?
Re: am i an idiot...?
convert f/s thanks
Re: Backfires?
Re: yet another oil question, 10W-30 vs SAE -30
RE: Backfires?
Re: opinions pls re  valley pan
Re: Backfires?
Re: free heat shrink tube
UNBOUNCE: Olds Brakes
PART WANTED
Re: Questions about compatibility.
Re: Window Tint
Re: am i an idiot...?
Re: Olds Homecoming - Bob Kerr's cars
Re: Olds Homecoming - Bob Kerr's cars
Re: Well I'm asking Crazy Questions?
442 for sale $700
Re: How do you get even with your car?
Re: Wanted
Re: am i an idiot...?(driveshaft)
Re: Wanted
Re: Olds Homecoming - Bob Kerr's cars

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 09:23:19 EDT
From: <MrExMt@aol.com>
Subject: Re: opinions pls re  valley pan

Roger,

My '68 cutlass s convert had the 2 piece gaskets only when I did a rebuild on
it. As far as we could tell it had never been apart. I replaced them with the
same 2 piece set & have had no problems with it. What does that turkey pan do
anyhow, if you know please let me know. Hope this helps.
Leigh Tenenholtz

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 08:27:55 -0500
From: Shang <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Re: opinions pls re  valley pan

hitson@leadbelt.com wrote:
>
> Is anybody operating without a valley pan gasket?
>
> If yes, can you tell any problems?
>
> How importanat do you think it is to use the turkey tray/bathtub/valley pan?
>
> TIA,
>
> roger hitson


I run my Performer without one. I use the regular composite gaskets,
from Mr. Gasket. I believe the purpose of the turkey-tray is to keep
hot-oil from splashing the manifold and heating up the mix. In my mind,
not running the turkey-tray is no different than a regular cheby motor.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 09:04:04 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@leadbelt.com
Subject: Re: opinions pls re  valley pan

Stephen Hoover wrote:

<snip>

> I believe the purpose of the turkey-tray is to keep
>hot-oil from splashing the manifold and heating up the mix.

Correct. Hence my questions>

 In my mind,
>not running the turkey-tray is no different than a regular cheby motor.
>
Oooooh

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 09:10:32 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: opinions pls re  valley pan

I believe it is suppose to keep the intake cool and stop the oil from
spashing in the intake, I think.

> ----------
> From: 	MrExMt@aol.com[SMTP:MrExMt@aol.com]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Monday, June 22, 1998 8:23 AM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: opinions pls re  valley pan
>
> Roger,
>
> My '68 cutlass s convert had the 2 piece gaskets only when I did a rebuild
> on
> it. As far as we could tell it had never been apart. I replaced them with
> the
> same 2 piece set & have had no problems with it. What does that turkey pan
> do
> anyhow, if you know please let me know. Hope this helps.
> Leigh Tenenholtz
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 09:13:09 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Air Cleaner question

What's the best after market Air Cleaner and when you race your Oldsmobiles
do you take the air cleaner off or do you keep it on.  The one I have (The
Edelbrok:EDL-1002 from summit) seems to be holding me back.  My car runs a
whole lot faster without it.  I don't like running without it though. Please
Help



===========================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
Cutlass403@ameritech.net
1971 Cutlass S 455
Westside! Chitown IL
===========================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 09:33:26 +0000
From: James Aiello <banner@kwom.com>
Subject: power steering pully

Any tricks for removing a pully from a power steering pump?
Its on a 350 non A/C 72 Cutlass.
Thanks;

James
70 442
70 cutlass conv.
71 cutlass parts
72 cutlass conv.
74 98
74 98 parts
96 Ram, parts mover

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 10:49:18 EDT
From: <AceFace007@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump

Looking for advice on installing an electric fuel pump as an auxillary unit to
the stock mechanical unit on my 57.

What is a good low pressure (under 10 lbs.) pump?

Best wiring method? I would like to have it on a switch to use only
temporarily to prevent vapor lock.

TIA


There really is no way to run both an electrical pump and a mechanical pump at
the same time. You have to have your fuel pump as close to your tank as
possible, therefore sending the gas through your mechanical one anyway. They
reason why you get vapor lock in the first place is because your pump is
overheating. There really is no reason why you would need or want to do that
anyway? My suggestion is to ditch your mechanical pump for and electric one.I
have an electric pump on my '57. If you have a J-2 you don't want to go over 7
psi. You can just leave your mechanical one in there because it doubles as a
vacuum pump for your winshield wipers. I guess it might be nice for you to
know that you don't have the only '57 that heats up. Especially if you drive
like me, your pump will get red hot and your engine will just bog out! After
you install a electric pump, you will never have that problem again. One thing
you might want to consider. Sometimes vapor lock is good. If your engine is
not running right, your car will heat up and it will definitely vopar lock
before you blow anything. Make sure your car engine is running right and check
your temp. When you have an electric pump, it won't lock up and you can just
blkow your engine. My advice is to install a temp guage and keep track of your
engines temp. Under normal conditions you shouldn't have vapor lock. One more
thing. As far as the switch thing, it's a cool idea to have a switch on your
pump. You can hide it and turn it off when you park your car. Then no one can
start it. Although, if you accidentally flip that switch when you are
driving...GOOD LUCK!

Willie
'57 Olds Super 88

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 10:53:41 EDT
From: <AceFace007@aol.com>
Subject: Re: power steering pully

There are no tricks. You need a puller for that. If you don't use the proper
puller, you will damage the pulley. There is one that threads into the center
and pulls it off by the inner rim of the pulley.

Willie
'57 Olds Super 88

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 07:54:23 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Squeak

>> Just put a small dab of grease on it to cure.
>
> Please excuse my ignorance here, but what grease is the right
> kind to use? Do I just go to Trak Auto and get "black grease"?

I just put a dab of white lithium on mine; it did the trick.
Not sure how critical your choice of grease is; i.e. it might
deteriorate the rubber of the hood support somewhat, but I can't
say I ever noticed that on my car.

> And in the rain, the car's quiet like a VAULT.  It's great.
> OTOH, you can't drive w/o the 'Tops in the rain...

Heh. Oh, yes, you can. You just have to keep your speed above
fifty or so.  :-)

P.S. Note new address at Hotmail, intended to fix the problem
of truncated Olds Digests at the office account. You can still
reach me at either address, though...
- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 11:49:10 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Air Cleaner Recommendations

The "H*LP" word bounced this one; forwarding.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Air Cleaner question

What's the best after market Air Cleaner and when you race your Oldsmobiles
do you take the air cleaner off or do you keep it on.  The one I have (The
Edelbrok:EDL-1002 from summit) seems to be holding me back.  My car runs a
whole lot faster without it.  I don't like running without it though. Please
H*lp



===========================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
Cutlass403@ameritech.net
1971 Cutlass S 455
Westside! Chitown IL
===========================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 11:53:19 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Air Cleaner Recommendations

Sam,

I used to run the Pro-Flow #1002 cleaner on my 72 Cutlass. I switched to a
14" x 3" "normal" cleaner. I only have one complaint about the #1002, if you
happen to get a backfire through the carb, (like mine did)the foam element
melts. The pieces suck into the carb, not good! I was warned ahead of time,
but had to find out the hard way. Had to pull carb and intake and clean out
the chunks of foam.

The foam element causes minimal air flow restriction, so you shouldn't
notice much of a change without it, not  with like a paper filter. I only
noticed a difference when removed my paper filter at the track.
Ordinarilly when you remove the air cleaner it richens the mix. Could you
have the carb leaned out too much for WOT conditions?

K&N are the probably the best in my opinion.

Just my .02,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 09:58:35 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Ralley Rims / Cam Bank Angle

Since I've been on the list for a while, can I clear up some Questions?
1) What is cam-bank angle exaclty:  It's not the angle of the V of the
block, is it, or is it the angle that the cam hits the lifters?

2) How close to original are a pair of 1974 Olds Ralley rims for
placement on a 1971 Cutlass?

Thanx, I've always been meaning to ask...

 (Rims in question can be seen at
 http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/gobstop.shtml )

 Eric

 http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/eric.shtml
 http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/
 mailto:rosi@dlcwest.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 08:15:17 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: RE: Need some opinions..!!!

For $300 I'd be all over that 442!  If that's a misprint, $3000 is still a
very good price.  If it's not a misprint, call me, I'll take it if you
don't :-)

Get the 442, I think you'll be much happier in the long run.  Paint isn't
hard to fix (just labor-intensive), and parts for the engine are readily
available if needed.  If it's still got the factory shocks, replace them
with some Monroes or Gabriels for a nice ride.

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

- ----------
From:  krzy4evr@usit.net[SMTP:krzy4evr@usit.net]
Sent:  Saturday, June 20, 1998 9:46 AM
To:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:  Need some opinions..!!!

I don't want to part with the
Supreme, but if I keep the 442, it will have to go. My Supreme is in
better shape, paint wise and riding comfort, than the 442. Will
someone please give me some help in deciding which route to take.
Also, I might add that I can pick up this 442 for $300.00 and I think
it is well worth that..!!! You'd have to see it to appreciate.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 09:12:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Backfires?

Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com> wrote:
<snip>Does this condition ring a bell with anyone?  What will cause
any engine to backfire if the timing is right?

*************
Tom, it's too LEAN. That will cause a backfire in an otherwise healthy
engine!







==
John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our Oldsmobiles and more at
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 12:33:48 -0400
From: nitedriver@webtv.net (John Troxell)
Subject: Re: Backfires?

Not familiar w each given year's eqp, so just random thoughts:

Air Cleaner, PCV sticking, O2 Sensor, Anti-knock Sensor, Low
Refrigerant, Dash Pot on Q-Jet: incorrect setting, weak diaphragm, or
orifice drilled out too big for drag racing; vacuum leaks...

JT

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 11:24:26 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: Backfires?

Thanks!

Hmm, ECM would have to be causing it.  Maybe O2 sensor is dying.  It is
about 50K miles old.  I swapped the original sensor with 155K on it, and
no changes, but no backfire, yet.  The car is a flat out DOG when the AC
is on off the line.  I mean SLOW!  Again, jump on it and all is fine.
Turn off AC and it is acceptable, even for 2.14's.  I have still
contemplated ditching the ECM and go with conventional ignition.

I have found a 78-79 Cutlass minus eng/trans for $125, figure I could
talk him down a bit and have a 2.73 or so rear end.  Anyone famillair
with what rear ends came in 78-79 with what engines?

Tom

- -----Original Message-----
From: John Pajak [mailto:jspajak@yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, June 22, 1998 11:13 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Backfires?


Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com> wrote:
<snip>Does this condition ring a bell with anyone?  What will cause
any engine to backfire if the timing is right?

*************
Tom, it's too LEAN. That will cause a backfire in an otherwise healthy
engine!







==
John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our Oldsmobiles and more at
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 13:10:19 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Hubcaps

In a message dated 98-06-19 21:13:13 EDT, you write:

<<   I currently have wire caps on my delta but they have a small center
 > cap. The ones from the 81 Regency have a center cap that is 4-5 inches
 > across. >>

I'm running 1977 ninety eight rallaye wheels on my 75 Delta 88 conv. They have
the Odsmobile insignia on the center cap and look great.
Bruce

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 12:24:50 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: W-31 progress

Hello everyone,
  Well it took about 10 hours Saturday, but I got the motors swapped in
the W-31.  Had one hell of a time trying to get the torque converter
lined up with the tranny in order to bolt the engine and tranny
together.  Are all torque convertors created equal?  Meaning for a turbo
350 that is hooked up to an Olds 455 and a turbo 350 hooked up to an
Olds 350 W-31 could the torgue converters be physically different in
size?  Both tranny have been rebuilt at one time.

I also have a question about downshift cables on a turbo 350.  I removed
the engine and tranny together as one unit.  When I unhooked the cable
at the tranny I just slipped the wire rod coming out of the tranny off
the clip on the cable.  I was careful to make sure that the wire rod
didn't fall into the tranny, which it didn't, but I didn't think to make
sure the clip and cable wouldn't retract up into the cable casing
several inches so I couldn't get at the clip to hook it back to the wire
rod coming out of the tranny.  How in the world am I gonna get the clip
out in order to hook up the kickdown again?  I haven't checked where the
cable is routed under the dash, but if I were to depress the accel pedal
would it come out?  Or am I gonna have to replace the cable?  Or is
there something I missing?  Thanks for any assistance.

Chris (exhausted and confused and puzzled in Terre Haute) Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31 (with a new heart, temporarily)
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 13:27:55 EDT
From: <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Re: power steering pully

In a message dated 6/22/98, 10:36:26 AM, oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca writes:
<<Any tricks for removing a pully from a power steering pump?
Its on a 350 non A/C 72 Cutlass.
Thanks;
>>
Get a pwr steer pully remover. $70.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 11:43:44 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: OOPS: Ralley Rims / Cam Bank Angle {IGNORE}

OOPS! Reposted before I seen the answer
By the time NEtscape SOrts by different everyone else's clock and the
threads messages, I lose some sutff!

>  Eric
>
>  http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/eric.shtml
>  http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/
>  mailto:rosi@dlcwest.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 12:49:45 -0500
From: "David A. Popadic" <davepop@execpc.com>
Subject: Wanted

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_008C_01BD9DDC.3BF7BF60
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Looking for a factory "working" am Radio for a 1967 Cultass Convertible=20

I just purchased this car and I know the speedometer is off (ie =
different size tires, different engine and tranny).  Anybdoy have any =
ideas on how to correct the speedometer!  Thanks!

- ------=_NextPart_000_008C_01BD9DDC.3BF7BF60
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Looking for a factory =
&quot;working&quot; am=20
Radio for a 1967 Cultass Convertible </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I just purchased this car and I know the speedometer =
is off=20
(ie different size tires, different engine and tranny).&nbsp; Anybdoy =
have any=20
ideas on how to correct the speedometer!&nbsp;=20
Thanks!</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_008C_01BD9DDC.3BF7BF60--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 14:27:45 EDT
From: <W31Sleeper@aol.com>
Subject: refresh me...

hi all!....can someone refresh my memory as to  where the wire... that is
closest to the engine ...(on the starter motor)  better yet, just let me know
where all the wires connect to .Thanks in advance!!!w31sleeper@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 15:05:25 -0400
From: D Frizsell <dfrizsell@WCUVAX1.WCU.EDU>
Subject: Re: My NEW Domain!!!!!!!!!

You're up and runnin' big guy!
D-man

JCRASH7@aol.com wrote:

> In celebration of my new scanner, I went and got a free domain for my site,
> tell me if it works....

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 15:09:20 -0400
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: Squeaks

Message text written by Jason
>Steve Ochs' list of cars seems to change daily... :-)

Sold my '97 Blazer - too many vehicles.  Sold the '61 GMC to someone who
will restore it (my grandfather bought new - had only 60,000 miles on it).
And the '95 Grand Prix belongs to my future wife (was mine before the
Blazer) - I feel like a car dealer at times :)

>Please excuse my ignorance here, but what grease is the right kind to use?
.<

I just use the white lithium grease.  It seems to last about 3 years before
I have to dab it again.  It might quiet in the rain because the moisture
allows the hood to "slip" on the bumper instead of "stick and squeak".

Notice I also added to my job description.  I am now in the process of
retooling some CNC equipment to make some parts for the 4L60-E
transmission.

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E & 4L60-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'96 DCM Impala SS   '87 Olds Cutlass 442  '95 Grand Prix

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 12:39:00 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: yet another oil question, 10W-30 vs SAE -30

What is the difference between 10W-30 and SAE-30 motor oil?
Napa had both on the shelf. are they the same? The SAE-30
was $.50 more a quart.
__
The old adage about "The early bird catches the worm", only serves
to prove, that the worm would have been better off if he stayed in bed .
                                                                :Lazarus Long

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 12:49:44 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: refresh me...

At 02:27 PM 6/22/98 -0400, you wrote:
>hi all!....can someone refresh my memory as to  where the wire... that is
>closest to the engine ...(on the starter motor)  better yet, just let me know
>where all the wires connect to .Thanks in advance!!!w31sleeper@aol.com
>

Purple goes to the terminal with the "S" on it.
this beats my old method of guessing, bolting the starter up, it not working
and then doing it over . :)

__
The old adage about "The early bird catches the worm", only serves
to prove, that the worm would have been better off if he stayed in bed .
                                                                :Lazarus Long

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 15:05:54 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: yet another oil question, 10W-30 vs SAE -30

30W is better...

Seriously, 10W30 is 10W with additives to make it perform as a 30W, but
at a 10W base.  It does not change with temp as so believed.  Just
agents added to make it perform better.  Nothing about "Winter"......

30W is more pure oil.  But at a cost of a thicker oil.  But it seals
rings better, and lubes better.  Just takes longer to get there.

10W40 is just more additives.  Theoretically it is better than 10W30,
because it performs as a 40W, but at the expense of more additives, and
that means proportionally less real oil.  And the oil is what protects
your engine, additives don't.  GM mandated no use of 10W40 to keep
warranty in force.  Too many additives, created too many ring deposits,
increase in warranty claims.

That is why I would stay far away from 5W30, 10W40, and 5W50 synthetics.


My 301 Turbo required use of 30W, and only use of 10W30 in winter (below
30 degrees).  2 oils were ever approved for use in it.

Hope that helps some!!

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac





- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Blanchard [mailto:bob149@efortress.com]
Sent: Monday, June 22, 1998 7:39 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: yet another oil question, 10W-30 vs SAE -30



What is the difference between 10W-30 and SAE-30 motor oil?
Napa had both on the shelf. are they the same? The SAE-30
was $.50 more a quart.
__
The old adage about "The early bird catches the worm", only serves
to prove, that the worm would have been better off if he stayed in bed .
                                                                :Lazarus
Long

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 16:24:05 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: question about vendor for list

W30442CS@aol.com wrote:
>
> has anyone on the list had any experiences with auto decals unlimited?
> good/bad?    steven,  w30442cs@aol.com


I had nothing but good dealings with him.  Very good guy, and didn't try
to steer me in the wrong direction.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 16:28:53 EDT
From: <WMACHINES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Homecoming - Bob Kerr's cars

In a message dated 98-06-21 16:32:54 EDT, you write:

<< Said "Hey!" to Mark Cornea and most of the Motor City Rockets.

 There were probably 100-130 cars shown. >>
Hey Karl, that's Mark Cornea and most of the Oldsmobile Street Rockets.  We
are not affiliated any way with the Motor City Rockets.  Thanks

Mark Prince
1972 442 W-30
1st place winner Lansing Homecoming
and proud members of the Olds Street Rockets
see them at http://members.aol.com/wmachines/Site5.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 23:24:15 +0200
From: "F.J.R. de Neys" <ron.deneys@wxs.nl>
Subject: Olds brakes

Hi there,

I'm looking for front brake rotor part no. for a 72 Olds Cutlass supreme
(hardtop coupe).
I am looking for a junk yard in Holland to get these parts but it's very
hard without these numbers.

I'd also like the know the publisher that has got a shop manual in their
programm for the above car.

I'm thankfull for all the help you can give me

Ron de Neys
ron.deneys@wxs.nl

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 18:13:12 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: W-31 progress

On Mon, 22 Jun 1998, Smetana, Christopher wrote:
> rod coming out of the tranny.  How in the world am I gonna get the clip
> out in order to hook up the kickdown again?  I haven't checked where the
> cable is routed under the dash, but if I were to depress the accel pedal
> would it come out?  Or am I gonna have to replace the cable?  Or is
> there something I missing?  Thanks for any assistance.

The downshift cable just attaches to the accelerator pedal assembly, so
if you play with that the cable should pop out (I think).

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 14:35:22 -0700
From: "Roger Fletcher" <rogerf@mailexcite.com>
Subject: Re: Backfires?

>_SUBJECTS_
>
>What sort of conditions cause backfires.  I know timing, but what on a
>computer controlled car will cause a under load backfire?
>
>Mine does it when the engine is under load, say 45 mph, TCC engaged,
>2.14 gears, the A/C on and engine hot (normal traffic temp).  I have a
>180 degree thermostat, but no gauges.
>
>The engine is a 1977 350, running the stock 307 "Y" ECM and sensors.
>Never any fault codes.
>
>Just wondering.  It is not excessive, but unless I tromp on it, it is
>sluggish, backfires, then I get mad and stand on it.  She is fine
>then.....
>
>
>Does this condition ring a bell with anyone?  What will cause any engine
>to backfire if the timing is right?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Thomas Martin
>85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
>91 Bonneville LE 3800
>80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac
>
I had a 83 Olds Custom Cruiser with 07.  Similar symptoims, turned out to be 
the
EGR valve.  Worth a look anyway.

Good luck.

Roger Fletcher


Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere!
http://www.mailexcite.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 17:38:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Ripoff pricing

Man, I thought Ron Memmer was high priced!

found this on www.442.com, and my typically smartass reply:
- ----------------
- -Date Posted 5/20/1998 - 68/69 Cutlass/442 NOS parts for Sale: Wheel
- -Well Moldings $400/set of 4; Front of hood moldings (hockey sticks) and
- -front of fender moldings $500/set of 4: Rear side marker bezels (have 3)
- -$100 each: 69 Supreme taillight lens $75; 69 LH fender peak molding
- -$150. All have original GM packaging. Also have 1 set used convt 1/4
- -panel peak moldings $500/set. All prices plus UPS shipping.
- -IBDrOlds@aol.com 805-337-7041 CA
===============
Yeah, ok, my 15x7 gold & chrome NOS wheels are up for grabs, too.
$10,000.
CBWitt
===============



- --
Chris Witt  *the* Rocket Scientist
1968 442 convertible, originally & to be again W30, et. al
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 17:37:48 EDT
From: <MFATZII@aol.com>
Subject: Re: How do you get even with your car?

	I had a problem with my horn, particularly on cold days, with it 
honking by
itself.  It wouldn't do it constantly but off and on. I knew what the problem
was  but ignored it for as long as I could.
	I got even with my 85 CSB by disconnecting the horn alltogether.  I was
driven to this one morning at about 2:00 when the thing was constantly in HONK
mode and woke the whole neighborhood. Pretty embarrased and still asleep I
went outsde and punched the door, kept honking.......got the door unlocked and
decked the cener of the wheel............ahh much better....in the dark I
managed to feel the horn plug and yank it off. One of these days I'll get
around to fixing the loose button...........

Ryan  (M Fatz II@aol.com)
Lincoln, Ne

56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project rocket)
<A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click here</A>
85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham

89 Beretta
81 Kawasaki LTD

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 16:39:52 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: Backfires?

Hmm, good thought!  I hate the darn thing anyway....  But this engine
reacts to EGR more than any I have seen.  The 307 and the current 350
both do.  Strikes me as the ECM makes all the difference on that.
Suprisingly PCV made a big difference.  If anyone swaps a 307 with a
350, change the PCV, put the correct 350 PCV in, it was worth about 20
hp for me!!  And the valve was good to start with.  Different spring
rates on the PCV valve.

If any more input, I appreciate it.

Thank you!

I will check out the EGR valve tonight!

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac



Original Message:

I had a 83 Olds Custom Cruiser with 07.  Similar symptoims, turned out
to be the EGR valve.  Worth a look anyway.

Good luck.

Roger Fletcher


Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere!
http://www.mailexcite.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 15:58:02 -0600
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: RE: Ripoff pricing

> ===============
> Yeah, ok, my 15x7 gold & chrome NOS wheels are up for grabs, too.
> $10,000.
> CBWitt
> ===============

Now, are those still in the "original GM boxes"?  If not, then by golly
they're only worth $500. ;)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 16:57:49 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: runs too rich (non olds...)

Dear List,

Fist of all: sorry for asking about a Lin***n on this list but I am
really kind of hopeless...

My Lincoln (V8 460) runs much too rich and I can't figure out what the
problem is. The whole emmission control is vacuum controlled... Friends of
mine say I should just get a rebuilt carburetor but if I recall it
correctly the former owner had put in a rebuilt one only 1.5 years ago
(10000 miles ago). It is a 4barrel carb.
What could be the reason for it to run that rich and what would you
suggest to do?
I just don't want to spend the money on another carb. to find out that
something else is the problem.

Thanks so much for your help!

Regards,

George



- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
'77 Lincoln Continental (like new, everyday driver, FOR SALE!)
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 18:00:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: free heat shrink tube

To those who neglected to take me up on the free heat shrink tube offer...

here's a testimonial.
- ---
Got the b.o.g. on Fri.  70 amp relays!!  How do you come up with such neet
things?  Already using the heat shrink pcs but not much worried I will run
out anytime soon.  Wow, you really came through.
- ------
B.o.g. would be Box o' Goodies, of course. He got a lot of neat items for his
money.

- --
Chris Witt  *the* Rocket Scientist
1968 442 convertible, originally & to be again W30, et. al
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 18:04:40 EDT
From: <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Backfires?

In a message dated 98-06-22 12:14:53 EDT, you write:

<<
 Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com> wrote:
 <snip>Does this condition ring a bell with anyone?  What will cause
 any engine to backfire if the timing is right?

 *************
 Tom, it's too LEAN. That will cause a backfire in an otherwise healthy
 engine!

  >>
I think the case is (correct me if I'm, wrong...) Too lean will be popping
through the carb (plus the infamous surging while driving), and too rich will
backfire through exhaust.  Correct?  (At least if seems to work that way with
tuning the carbs on the motorcycle...).

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 17:12:18 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: Backfires?

Yes, it is popping through the carb.  Sorry, I forgot to mention that!

Maybe it is too obvious, why will it backfire when it is too lean?

When EGR is operating, that tends to lean it out, right?  So if the eng
is running lean, and the EGR is wide open, leaner yet right?

I will disconnect the EGR and see how it reacts.

I have the secondaries running a bit on the rich side, so that explains
why when I tromp on it the engine runs ok.

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac


- -----Original Message-----
From: CRuper1@aol.com [mailto:CRuper1@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, June 22, 1998 5:05 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Backfires?


In a message dated 98-06-22 12:14:53 EDT, you write:

<<
 Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com> wrote:
 <snip>Does this condition ring a bell with anyone?  What will cause
 any engine to backfire if the timing is right?

 *************
 Tom, it's too LEAN. That will cause a backfire in an otherwise healthy
 engine!

  >>
I think the case is (correct me if I'm, wrong...) Too lean will be
popping
through the carb (plus the infamous surging while driving), and too rich
will
backfire through exhaust.  Correct?  (At least if seems to work that way
with
tuning the carbs on the motorcycle...).

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 18:16:53 EDT
From: <SxyIrshman@aol.com>
Subject: am i an idiot...?

took out my 4spd manual in my 73 442, and dropped in a th350..(350 eng) and
now i have this really severe vibration in the floor and body of the
car....but not in the steering wheel (so i think it must be a rear problem)
and i'm clueless, it starts at 40 or so and is there in d,2,1 and neutral, but
there are no other strange noises otherwise...could it be a wheel/tire
problem? the wheelwhieghts are still on, and up to 40, it's fine...when
accelerating through 40, it starts and doesn't stop...help!!!	

mike...
73 442
85 mustang
79 f-150

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 17:19:36 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: am i an idiot...?

Do you have a bent shaft or driveline phasing problem?  Make sure the
driveshaft is NOT perfectly lined up with the rear end, it must have
some angles to it.

Hot Rod/Car Craft/PHR had an article on this recently.

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac



- -----Original Message-----
From: SxyIrshman@aol.com [mailto:SxyIrshman@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, June 22, 1998 5:17 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: am i an idiot...?


took out my 4spd manual in my 73 442, and dropped in a th350..(350 eng)
and
now i have this really severe vibration in the floor and body of the
car....but not in the steering wheel (so i think it must be a rear
problem)
and i'm clueless, it starts at 40 or so and is there in d,2,1 and
neutral, but
there are no other strange noises otherwise...could it be a wheel/tire
problem? the wheelwhieghts are still on, and up to 40, it's fine...when
accelerating through 40, it starts and doesn't stop...help!!!	

mike...
73 442
85 mustang
79 f-150

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 18:25:40 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: How do you get even with your car?

It turns out the Soylent was running about a quart low.

Horn was not really fixed, she just wanted attention.

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 16:32:13 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: am i an idiot...?

This happened to me once, turned out the Torque-converter bolt was
basically wrecked.
(I had a bit of cross-threaded oops-ness happening when I put it in)
Hey, it was my first tranny-change, all in all that's not bad!

SxyIrshman@aol.com wrote:
>
> took out my 4spd manual in my 73 442, and dropped in a th350..(350 eng) and
> now i have this really severe vibration in the floor and body of the
> car....but not in the steering wheel (so i think it must be a rear problem)
> and i'm clueless, it starts at 40 or so and is there in d,2,1 and neutral, 
but
> there are no other strange noises otherwise...could it be a wheel/tire
> problem? the wheelwhieghts are still on, and up to 40, it's fine...when
> accelerating through 40, it starts and doesn't stop...help!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 18:37:58 EDT
From: <SxyIrshman@aol.com>
Subject: Re: am i an idiot...?

i know the d/s is straight and is not in line with the rear end...could it be
a rear u-joint problem?	

mike
73 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 18:40:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: convert f/s thanks

Thanks, sounds way to expensive for me right now. Nice to hear about them
though.


- --
Chris Witt  *the* Rocket Scientist
1968 442 convertible, originally & to be again W30, et. al
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 18:43:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Re: Backfires?

> What sort of conditions cause backfires.  I know timing, but what on a
> computer controlled car will cause a under load backfire?
>
> Mine does it when the engine is under load, say 45 mph, TCC engaged,
> 2.14 gears, the A/C on and engine hot (normal traffic temp).  I have a
> 180 degree thermostat, but no gauges.
>
> The engine is a 1977 350, running the stock 307 "Y" ECM and sensors.
> Never any fault codes.
>
> Just wondering.  It is not excessive, but unless I tromp on it, it is
> sluggish, backfires, then I get mad and stand on it.  She is fine
> then.....
> Does this condition ring a bell with anyone?  What will cause any engine
> to backfire if the timing is right?

Sounds like timing, or EGR not working right.

- --
Chris Witt  *the* Rocket Scientist
1968 442 convertible, originally & to be again W30, et. al
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Jun 1998 19:46:14 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: yet another oil question, 10W-30 vs SAE -30

The sae30 oil flows like 30 weight both hot and cold.  The multi weight
10-30 oil flows like a ten weight cold and like 30 weight hot.  The multi
weight also carries an implicit  guarantee of a detergent aditive needed in
engines with hydraulic lifters.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, June 22, 1998 3:43 PM
Subject: yet another oil question, 10W-30 vs SAE -30


>
>What is the difference between 10W-30 and SAE-30 motor oil?
>Napa had both on the shelf. are they the same? The SAE-30
>was $.50 more a quart.
>__
>The old adage about "The early bird catches the worm", only serves
>to prove, that the worm would have been better off if he stayed in bed .
>                                                                :Lazarus
Long

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 17:45:44 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: Backfires?

The timing is set very close to stock (20 degrees), maybe 22, and the
rest of it is ECM control.  Can the ECM yank that much timing to cause
backfire?  If so, I am scared!

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac


- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris Brown Witt [mailto:wittchri@pilot.msu.edu]
Sent: Monday, June 22, 1998 5:43 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Backfires?


Sounds like timing, or EGR not working right.

- --
Chris Witt  *the* Rocket Scientist
1968 442 convertible, originally & to be again W30, et. al
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Jun 1998 19:50:08 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: opinions pls re  valley pan

There is no problem inherent in using an after-market intake manifold gasket
in a big block Oldsmobile engine.  AS a matter of fact, this is a repair
that is commonly required when oafs shave a cylinder head on the block side
and fail to compensate by grinding the intake side. Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: hitson@leadbelt.com <hitson@leadbelt.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, June 22, 1998 9:02 AM
Subject: opinions pls re valley pan


>Is anybody operating without a valley pan gasket?
>
>If yes, can you tell any problems?
>
>How importanat do you think it is to use the turkey tray/bathtub/valley
pan?
>
>TIA,
>
>roger hitson
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 15:51:43 PDT
From: "Gene Crowdis" <oldsman68@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Backfires?

Thomas,
A couple of suggestions on the backfire problem.  Check all of your
spark plug wires and coil wires.  Anything that might be arcing could be
a problem.  Timing is the number one problem.  Distributor cap cracks,
are often a problem.  Take yours off and hold it up to the sunlight to
see if there is a hairline crack in it.  Sometimes you can tap on it
(lightly) and it will show up a crack.
One more thing.  If you address your inputs to:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca  it will go to oldsmobile-digest page rather
than to everyone who is signed up for the digest only.

Good luck,
Oldsman68  aka Gene C.  North Texas area.

- ----Original Message Follows----
>From oldsmobile-digest-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca Mon Jun 22 09:08:41 1998
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_SUBJECTS_

What sort of conditions cause backfires.  I know timing, but what on a
computer controlled car will cause a under load backfire?

Mine does it when the engine is under load, say 45 mph, TCC engaged,
2.14 gears, the A/C on and engine hot (normal traffic temp).  I have a
180 degree thermostat, but no gauges.

The engine is a 1977 350, running the stock 307 "Y" ECM and sensors.
Never any fault codes.

Just wondering.  It is not excessive, but unless I tromp on it, it is
sluggish, backfires, then I get mad and stand on it.  She is fine
then.....


Does this condition ring a bell with anyone?  What will cause any engine
to backfire if the timing is right?

Thanks!

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac




______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 19:02:35 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: free heat shrink tube

Like the Joker (Jack Nicholson) said in the first Batman movie "where
does he get those wonderful toys?"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 20:25:34 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Olds Brakes

Not on the list, respond to ron.deneys@wxs.nl directly please. He's in
Holland so I'm sure any help would be appreciated very much.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"F.J.R. de Neys" <ron.deneys@wxs.nl>
Subject: Olds brakes

Hi there,

I'm looking for front brake rotor part no. for a 72 Olds Cutlass supreme
(hardtop coupe).
I am looking for a junk yard in Holland to get these parts but it's very
hard without these numbers.

I'd also like the know the publisher that has got a shop manual in their
programm for the above car.

I'm thankfull for all the help you can give me

Ron de Neys
ron.deneys@wxs.nl

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 20:11:10 EDT
From: <WOODY3781@aol.com>
Subject: PART WANTED

LOOKING FOR 2-PIECE REAR BUMPER FOR 73 DELTA CONVERTIBLE. EXCELLENT SHAPE OR
RECHROME PREFERRED- THANKS

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 20:17:12 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Questions about compatibility.

So, my point is, interchangability doesn't have to
stay within body class. Get the tape measure, and go balls out. I could
have
never found an iterior this nice in the Poncho family. Make those door
panels
fit. peace,
Kerry


  Here's one that's even wilder.  We're at Leon's Auto Parts (the 80 acre
  wrecking yard in Culpepper, VA) and I'm pulling the spindles off a B-body
  wagon to use on my 68 442.  Across from the car I'm working on is a late
  60's Road Runner (nope, the horn was already gone) with white buckets.
  On second glance, I see that they're 68-ish _Pontiac_ A-body buckets
  (Olds content:  I can use them in one of my 442s once I recover them).
  OK, no big deal, as you just need to drill holes in the floor pan.  On
  _third_ glance, I notice the Road Runner has the matching Poncho _back
  seat_ installed as well!  Looked like it grew there.

  Joe Padavano
  padavano.joe@orbital.com

  66 442
  68 W-30
  69 H/O
  70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 20:22:56 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Window Tint

Robert F. Newbegin Jr. wrote:

...Wisconsin law says the darkest legal tint is 50/50 on the
front door windows and 65/35 back.
(xx/yy - the xx is the percent of light blocked out, the yy is the visible
light allowed through)...

   Am I the only one bothered by this?  In what appears to be a classic
   case of the government over-specifying a requirement, doesn't the second
   number by definition have to be 100 minus the first number?  It would be
   kind of hard (well amazing, actually) to have, say, 65/45 tint, or 50/90
   tint, wouldn't it?

   (OK, Chris Witt mode off)

   Joe Padavano
   padavano.joe@orbital.com

   66 442
   68 W-30
   69 H/O
   70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 20:25:43 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: am i an idiot...?

Karl's TH bible not cover 350.

OK.

4spd out. OK.

TH350 in. OK

0-12 (or so) shift. OK.      right?

12-32 (or so) shift. OK.    right?

32 - 40   OK.     right ??

40+     Vibration.  ?

Is this TH350 a three or four speed?

Do you actually get two GOOD shifts before 40, or is there really a second
shift point?

I do not have a solution offhand. But....
Drive down the block and try to "feel" for those two shifts.

Next:

PRNDSL

Try putting it in (L)ow gear and try to drive away. (Just to test a theory)

If bad stuff happens in L gear, tranny probs.

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 20:40:33 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Homecoming - Bob Kerr's cars

In a message dated 98-06-22 16:34:06 EDT, you write:

<< Hey Karl, that's Mark Cornea and most of the Oldsmobile Street Rockets.  We
     are not affiliated any way with the Motor City Rockets.  Thanks
  Mark Prince
 1972 442 W-30
 1st place winner Lansing Homecoming
 and proud members of the Olds Street Rockets
 see them at http://members.aol.com/wmachines/Site5.html  >>

Oooooooops. Sorry.

Karl not mean to anger the Prince of Oldsmobiling.
Karl from backwards land where one OCA affiliated club per state plenty.
(And pretty poor attenance by IVOC to the multi-make car shows!)

If I should so err again you may run me down with the Darth Vader car!

Well, I guess as punishments go it's not so bad.

And I really do not mean any offence, but with the RE Olds chapter in Lansing,
I am reminded of "Monty Python and the Holy Grail."

"No! We are not the People's Front of Judea, we are the Judean People's
Front!" "Who's he?" "He is the Popular Judean Front."

And you are welcome.

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 17:57:57 -0700
From: Eric Spence <ericsp@mail.ocis.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Homecoming - Bob Kerr's cars

When I try to go to your "site", I get an error from AOL.

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 98-06-22 16:34:06 EDT, you write:
>
> << Hey Karl, that's Mark Cornea and most of the Oldsmobile Street Rockets.  
We
>      are not affiliated any way with the Motor City Rockets.  Thanks
>   Mark Prince
>  1972 442 W-30
>  1st place winner Lansing Homecoming
>  and proud members of the Olds Street Rockets
>  see them at http://members.aol.com/wmachines/Site5.html  >>
>
> Oooooooops. Sorry.
>
> Karl not mean to anger the Prince of Oldsmobiling.
> Karl from backwards land where one OCA affiliated club per state plenty.
> (And pretty poor attenance by IVOC to the multi-make car shows!)
>
> If I should so err again you may run me down with the Darth Vader car!
>
> Well, I guess as punishments go it's not so bad.
>
> And I really do not mean any offence, but with the RE Olds chapter in 
Lansing,
> I am reminded of "Monty Python and the Holy Grail."
>
> "No! We are not the People's Front of Judea, we are the Judean People's
> Front!" "Who's he?" "He is the Popular Judean Front."
>
> And you are welcome.
>
> KA
> &SOM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 20:45:42 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Well I'm asking Crazy Questions?

Karl and SOM wrote:

...OTOH, If your pushrods are shorter than they should be, this might not
be a
problem (uhhh....right Joe?), but you are losing some of the lift that you
bought the cam for....

   That's actually an interesting observation, Karl (or did SOM come up
   with that).  Unfortunately, if you have set lifter preload properly,
   shorter pushrods will only serve to screw up the angle of the rocker
   relative to the valve.  Conversely, if you maintain the proper
   rocker/valve relationship, the short pushrods will cause gapping between
   the pushrod tip and rocker cup - with fatal consequences for your
   valvetrain. (not to mention the clatter)

   Here's a radical thought, however.  If I remember correctly, advancing
   the cam improves HP and torque in the lower RPM ranges, while retarding
   the cam improves it in the high RPM ranges (or is it the other way
   around?).  If you put a 39 deg cam in a 45 deg block (or vice-versa),
   could you treat the motor like two separate inline fours and get some
   benefit?  I ask this only because Saab builds a V6 with what they call
   their asymmetric turbo setup.  One bank of the V6 is boosted differently
   from the other, resulting in (presumably) an improvement at certain
   engine operating conditions.

   Any thoughts?

   BTW, it's the _September 98_ issue of MCR - on sale now!

   Joe Padavano
   padavano.joe@orbital.com

   66 442
   68 W-30
   69 H/O
   70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 20:52:14 EDT
From: <Surmise@aol.com>
Subject: 442 for sale $700

Found on aol ads:

Reply to Screen Name: <A HREF="mailto:SanSue101">SanSue101</A>
Location: CA

muscle car    olds 442

1976 olds  body in good shape, interior seats need repair. 350 engine factory
built. yours for $700.00 or best offer.  Call 213 254-0144 or 213 258-4885

If my posting other peoples ads drives you guys crazy let me know.

John Stowe
Surmise@aol.com 67 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 21:03:44 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: How do you get even with your car?

Spent the whole trip from Dallas Tx, to Lynchburg Va up under my 67
banging the solenoid with a big ole screwdriver....I've been told a heat
shield would probably be a good idea....

Charley Buehner wrote:
>
> > So, aside from leaving the SAE 30 in the pan a week longer than I
> > intended,.....
> > How can I get even with Soylent Ocean Mist?
>
> Well...  You ~could~ put a 454 in it...  Naw, I don't think it was ~that~
cruel > to you.  I'm contemplating revenge plots myself, see.  The Rockit has
this habit > of not wanting to crank when ~I~ want it to.  Happened the other
week when I was > taking the test cruise.  Happened once before at the farm, 
the
night I drove up > to rescue it (~just~ before the big snowstorm, and when I
found all the mice) > Been doing fine, but at the last minute, just ready to
leave, no crank.  Idiot > lights come on, telling me the ign switch works, but
no crank.  Been smacking > the solenoid and wiggling wires down there, and
seemed to help.  I know the > wires are in tough shape.  Fix that soon.  But 
the
kicker is, today, when it > tried doing the same thing, I hit the remote for my
remote starter, and it tries > to crank.  Slowly, but tries.  Strange.  ~Very~
strange.  Put the charger on it > for a while, and it started just fine.  Go
figure.  I'll get even with 'er, > though.  ~I'LL~ get my last word in, ~I'LL~
have my day, I tell you.  I'll get > the last laugh, just after I dump the 455
in it...  (Either that, or it'll just > go knock knock knock knock knock
knock....)  Then I'd have to come up with a > ~new~ revenge scheme! > -- > The
Oldsmobile Magnet -- Charley Buehner@Sidney Montana > mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
or mailto:charley@rocketship.com > http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner  -- Oldsmagnet
Homepage > OldsList Vital Info: http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 21:06:53 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted

I have the same problem with my 67 cutlass.  Is yours a supreme or a
plain cutlass convertible?  I usually just tell the cop the speedo said
I was doing 65.....Here's an email address for a guy with radios....

www.chermac@exis.net

> David A. Popadic wrote:
>
> Looking for a factory "working" am Radio for a 1967 Cultass
> Convertible
>
> I just purchased this car and I know the speedometer is off (ie
> different size tires, different engine and tranny).  Anybdoy have any
> ideas on how to correct the speedometer!  Thanks!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 20:21:41 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: am i an idiot...?(driveshaft)

I had a bad vibration at highway speeds.  Balancing the wheels and
changed the front wheel bearings had no effect.  I then balanced the
driveshaft and had heavy duty U-joints installed.  Costed about 50
bucks.  Fixed the problem.

- -greg

- -----Original Message-----
From: SxyIrshman@aol.com <SxyIrshman@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, June 22, 1998 6:18 PM
Subject: am i an idiot...?


>took out my 4spd manual in my 73 442, and dropped in a th350..(350
eng) and
>now i have this really severe vibration in the floor and body of the
>car....but not in the steering wheel (so i think it must be a rear
problem)
>and i'm clueless, it starts at 40 or so and is there in d,2,1 and
neutral, but
>there are no other strange noises otherwise...could it be a
wheel/tire
>problem? the wheelwhieghts are still on, and up to 40, it's
fine...when
>accelerating through 40, it starts and doesn't stop...help!!!
>
>mike...
>73 442
>85 mustang
>79 f-150

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 20:17:09 -0500
From: "Dave" <davepop@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted

Mine is just a plain Cutlass.  Do you have any pictures of your car you
could email me?  I am tring to build a collection of sorts!

Also I tried that address you gave me (www.chermac@exis.net) and I get an
error?

Dave
- -----Original Message-----
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, June 22, 1998 8:08 PM
Subject: Re: Wanted


>I have the same problem with my 67 cutlass.  Is yours a supreme or a
>plain cutlass convertible?  I usually just tell the cop the speedo said
>I was doing 65.....Here's an email address for a guy with radios....
>
>www.chermac@exis.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 21:32:05 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Homecoming - Bob Kerr's cars

<HTML>
Eric, here is <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/wmachines">the correct link</A>
.
<BR>Once you get to this page you can move around within the site.

<P>Mark Hahn
<BR>75 Delta 88 Royale Conv</HTML>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1323
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