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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1339


oldsmobile-digest       Tuesday, June 30 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1339



door panel emblems for sale
Re: Air conditioning
Re: shifter cable bracket
Re: Ch*vy+Ch*vy = Sh!tty
Re: Adios
Re:  Olds + Olds
Re: Adios
Re: Olds + Olds
Re: 65 Oldsmobile 98
Re: More Switch Pitch Info
69 Cutlass
Re: 68-69 fenders
Torque Converters, K&N air filters, shift kit, and rearends.
Need advice (converters, air filter, shift kit, and rear end
Re: Torque Converters, K&N air filters, shift kit, and rearends.
Re: mileage question
Re: rechrome plastic
Determining 1955 88 Original Color Scheme
Re: Torque Converters, K&N air filters, shift kit, and rearends.
Re: Yard Humor - Long
Re: Backfires?
Re: electronic ignition conversion
Re: More Switch Pitch Info
Re: Transmissions, Bandwidth, Web Pages
re: questions about 78 Cutlass race car
Re: mileage question
Re: questions about 78 Cutlass race car
Intake
Re: Determining 1955 88 Original Color Scheme
Re: questions about 78 Cutlass race car
Re: question about big blocks
Re: shifter cable bracket
re: 350 to 455 g-body
unsubscribe oldsmobile
Was there once an Olds Limo?
Re: metro vs. soft seal?/further questions!
BB & SB G-Bod motor mounts
Re: Was there once an Olds Limo?
W-30 alum intake Forsale
Re: rear disc(my two bits)
Re: rear disc(my two bits)
83 getting better
Re: electronic ignition conversion
Re: G-tech G meter, real or phoney?
Re: rear disc(my two bits)
Re: rear disc(my two bits-Again!)
Re: rear disc(my two bits-Again!)
Re: rear disc(my two bits-Again!)
Re: rear disc - Mo Money! (No $0.02 about it!:)
Carb and Emmisions
Loss of brake fluid
Re: Loss of brake fluid
RE: Loss of brake fluid
Re: Loss of brake fluid
Re: Was there once an Olds Limo?
Headers & "H" vs. "X"
Re: Adios
Re: BB & SB G-Bod motor mounts

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 18:23:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tom Lardner <lardner@UMDNJ.EDU>
Subject: door panel emblems for sale

I found a pair of circa 1975-76 "Cutlass Salon" door panels (with all the
nation flags below it), in good shape (cept one has kind of beat up studs
on the back).
Is anyone interested in buying these?
Tom

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 18:36:06 EDT
From: <Mikeytvb@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Air conditioning

has anyone tried this new stuff called "freeze 12"?  it's supposed to go in
place of the r-12 found in many old a'c systems.  r-134a is a very effective
system.  to convert you will need new seals, a couple fittings, and a drier.
the best bet is to find out more about the freeze 12.  r-12 costs about $24
for one can.  r-134a costs about $6 a can.  i heard the freeze 12 sells for
less than r-134a.  you should visit a couple of shops to see what all is
available.

mikey tvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 18:47:05 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: shifter cable bracket

Stan,

I can't speak from experience with swapping from the TH-350 to the TH-400, but
I had to do the reverse out of necessity, the 455 blew by too much at 140,000
miles of MY driving (drag racing and out on the dry lakes in California), and
the TH-400 began leaking faster than I could put ATF in at 150,000 miles.
Don't worry, they'll be reinstalled when the car is rebuilt.

Anyway, I got the entire thing to work with the parts from the 400 and the
driveshaft from the parts car providing the TH-350.  One thing I did notice
was somewhere along the life of the car the trans shifter cable bracket (the
one on the pan) was "modified" by drilling the locating holes out and adding
some extra slots.  I don't remember if it mounted back in the same holes as
before or not.  I do know the "U" bracket on the transmission can be removed
and replaced with the other one, it's held in place by a nut in the center of
the "U" bracket.  I changed my bracket over to the new trans so I could keep
the locking feature and also for a little trick I put in the dash - I use a
column-shift speedometer on my floor-shifted car. A lot of people think it was
made that way, since it operates just like a column-shifted car.

Hope this helps you out, E-mail me if there's any more info I might have you
need.

Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 18:51:54 EDT
From: <Mikeytvb@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Ch*vy+Ch*vy = Sh!tty

here's what they do.....they take a chevy 400 crank and stick it in a 350
block.  or they can take a 350 crank and stick it in a 400 block.  i'm not
exactly sure what the combinations outcomes will be, but one motor will only
turn 5000 and have tons of torque and the other will turn 10000 and have tons
of horsepower.  and i would know this because???

mikey tvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 18:58:02 -0400
From: "Gib Loudon" <cutlass@mill.tds.net>
Subject: Re: Adios

Right on Brent,
It's about time someone said something on Chris's behalf.  If it weren't for
Chris I would still be trying to figure out numerous problems on my car.  So
he comes off a little harsh sometimes....well...its about time you people
realized that he's only bitchin' about the stuff we don't have the guts to
say.  He will be missed....good thing I have his email address and phone #
for when I have a question.

Gib.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 18:59:56 EDT
From: <Mikeytvb@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  Olds + Olds

how come a big block crank won't fit in a small block?  don't they use the
same oil pans?  or is the problem on the top of the crank?  just wondering.
any info would be greatly appriciated.    one more thought.....a diesel crank
in a big block.  wouldn't this be a high revving, high horsepower engine?  the
only problem is the rod length.  if you look at the aurora engine and the indy
aurora, the indy engine is bored out and destroked and it turns about 10
grand.  actually i can't wait to buy a new smw 403 block.

mikey tvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 19:04:37 EDT
From: <Sx455@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Adios

actually Brent,
 i think he was more overjoyed with the fact that if he inadvertantly made a
mistake with a post to the list he wouldnt hear a bunch of crap !!!!! sx455

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 19:21:33 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Olds + Olds

how come a big block crank won't fit in a small block?  don't they use the
same oil pans?  or is the problem on the top of the crank? ...
mikey tvb@aol.com
______________

The big block (and diesel) use larger main bearings than the small block.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 19:28:05 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: 65 Oldsmobile 98

Note: Holiday Sedans are pillarless hardtops.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dustin Robinette <angst@primenet.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, June 29, 1998 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: 65 Oldsmobile 98


>>Interested in finding out if my one owner 1965 Olds 98 4 door has any
value.
>>If so, then how much?? Also, how many were built that year and how many
are
>>still in existence today.  Any information is very much appreciated.
Thanks!!
>>
>>My Olds 98 has 98,000 original miles and I believe it is a Holiday sedan.
>Are  the 1966 VIN  compatible with 1965?  This is to help make sure that my
>1965 Olds 98 is the holiday model. If not, where can I look up or find VIN
>for 65 Olds. Thanks!
>
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 19:28:48 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: More Switch Pitch Info

Charley,

Stopped by the site in question, and marked it in my 'puter for later
reference.  If you remove the /switchpitch.html section of the address and re-
enter, you get the homepage of a Bu*^k club in Florida, and there are a lot of
the same things we talk about here, changing front drums to disc, manual
steering box interchange, etc.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 18:27:12 -0500
From: glgillum <glgillum@mci2000.com>
Subject: 69 Cutlass

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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If it interests anyone...there is a 69 Cutlass convertible for sale here =
in LaPorte, TX, asking $2200.  The body is a little rough, but no =
apparent serious damage.  The top and interior are black, the seats look =
to be in pretty good shape.  The owner started it up for me and it =
started as fast as any engine I have ever heard start and ran pretty =
smooth.  Has a 350 w/column shifted 3 speed auto (TH 350?). If more info =
is desired email direct at glgillum@mci2000.com.

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>If it interests anyone...there is a =
69 Cutlass=20
convertible for sale here in LaPorte, TX, asking $2200.&nbsp; The body =
is a=20
little rough, but no apparent serious damage.&nbsp; The top and interior =
are=20
black, the seats look to be in pretty good shape.&nbsp; The owner =
started it up=20
for me and it started as fast as any engine I have ever heard start and =
ran=20
pretty smooth.&nbsp; Has a 350 w/column shifted 3 speed auto (TH 350?). =
If more=20
info is desired email direct at <A=20
href=3D"mailto:glgillum@mci2000.com">glgillum@mci2000.com</A>.</FONT></DI=
V></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_00B2_01BDA38B.89061220--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 20:02:44 EDT
From: <Scuubybrew@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 68-69 fenders

how much $ , condition.

email direct scuubybrew@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 20:33:20 EDT
From: <TERMO1L@aol.com>
Subject: Torque Converters, K&N air filters, shift kit, and rearends.

Hey there ladies and Gents its been awhile and I have a few questions.  Here
goes:

1)  I have a basic th350 with a stock converter behind my 330 and a 2.78
standard rear.  How much of a difference could I expext from a new converter
and what stall range would be appropriate?(66 f85}

2) Anybody using a K&N air filter?  Any difference?  They claim so much but I
need some proof before I blow the cash?  Any input would be great.

3)  What exactly does a shift kit do?  Sorry for me lack of brains but what is
involved in this and what are the $$$ that go with it?   Does it make a
difference?

4)  Last of all I should someday like to ditch those 2.78 gears and put in
something a little bigger.  Right now my car makes good power from
2300-5000(never had it higher). My car goes real good can go to nearly 100 in
second gear(5000) and my third is slow as hell so will I be at a loss to put
in a bigger gear?  How much would it change my rpm-mph?????  Sorry if I've
lost everyone on this one.


5) Last but not least of the converter shift kit and rear end what do you guys
recommend getting first for a gain in performance.


Thanks for your time
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 20:34:11 EDT
From: <TERMO1L@aol.com>
Subject: Need advice (converters, air filter, shift kit, and rear end

Hey there ladies and Gents its been awhile and I have a few questions.  Here
goes:

1)  I have a basic th350 with a stock converter behind my 330 and a 2.78
standard rear.  How much of a difference could I expext from a new converter
and what stall range would be appropriate?(66 f85}

2) Anybody using a K&N air filter?  Any difference?  They claim so much but I
need some proof before I blow the cash?  Any input would be great.

3)  What exactly does a shift kit do?  Sorry for me lack of brains but what is
involved in this and what are the $$$ that go with it?   Does it make a
difference?

4)  Last of all I should someday like to ditch those 2.78 gears and put in
something a little bigger.  Right now my car makes good power from
2300-5000(never had it higher). My car goes real good can go to nearly 100 in
second gear(5000) and my third is slow as hell so will I be at a loss to put
in a bigger gear?  How much would it change my rpm-mph?????  Sorry if I've
lost everyone on this one.


5) Last but not least of the converter shift kit and rear end what do you guys
recommend getting first for a gain in performance.


Thanks for your time
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 17:57:43 -0700
From: Rick <truric@imag.net>
Subject: Re: Torque Converters, K&N air filters, shift kit, and rearends.

At 08:33 PM 6/29/98 -0400, you wrote:
>
>
>Hey there ladies and Gents its been awhile and I have a few questions.  Here
>goes:
>
>1)  I have a basic th350 with a stock converter behind my 330 and a 2.78
>standard rear.  How much of a difference could I expext from a new converter
>and what stall range would be appropriate?(66 f85}
>
>2) Anybody using a K&N air filter?  Any difference?  They claim so much but I
>need some proof before I blow the cash?  Any input would be great.
>
>3)  What exactly does a shift kit do?  Sorry for me lack of brains but
what is
>involved in this and what are the $$$ that go with it?   Does it make a
>difference?
>
>4)  Last of all I should someday like to ditch those 2.78 gears and put in
>something a little bigger.  Right now my car makes good power from
>2300-5000(never had it higher). My car goes real good can go to nearly 100 in
>second gear(5000) and my third is slow as hell so will I be at a loss to put
>in a bigger gear?  How much would it change my rpm-mph?????  Sorry if I've
>lost everyone on this one.
>
>
>5) Last but not least of the converter shift kit and rear end what do you
guys
>recommend getting first for a gain in performance.
>
>
>Thanks for your time
>Mike
>


well mike i can answer at least two of your questions first off k&n air
filters are gr8 there not lying i would say an easy way to add five horses
and as far as a shift kit goes what it does is reprogram the tranny to
shift faster harder and higher and there fairly cheap and you can do it
yourself in an afternoon all you need is basic tools and a drill
Rick
1972 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 21:06:18 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: mileage question

My other vehicle is a 94 F-150 and I have 205,000 on it. 95% highway
only two sets of tires and one brake job. Conditions mean a lot.

Mark
75 Delta 88 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 21:26:37 -0400
From: "Loris Scarnecchia" <loris@tir.com>
Subject: Re: rechrome plastic

Use a product called "Bare-Metal" from your local model car or hobby shop.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Surmise@aol.com <Surmise@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, June 25, 1998 1:05 PM
Subject: rechrome plastic


>So after the chrome is off what do you guys put back on?
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 18:41:27 +0000
From: Jeffrey Love <acpvideo@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Determining 1955 88 Original Color Scheme

Does anybody have some suggestions as to how I would go about determining the
original color scheme of my 1955 88?

It has been repainted a couple of different colors as has the dash board. The
steering column and wheel appear to be the original color (a salmon) as they
don't match the current dash color (burgundy). I'm guessing that the front
half of the car was white and the rear half was salmon. It is the interior
that stumps me. Currently the door panels are two tone white and burgundy,
although the burgundy parts appear to have been "painted" since the scratch
marks in them are revealing a sea foam green color underneath. There are
traces of silver on the sun visors and under the burgundy seat covers. Could
the interior have been salmon/silver/seafoam green?!?!?

Help!

Jeffrey

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 21:42:53 EDT
From: <Sx455@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Torque Converters, K&N air filters, shift kit, and rearends.

Mike,
 the rear change will give you the biggest "seat of the pants" difference!
personally,and you must understand evryone has different taste,i would stay in
the 3.08-3.55 range as far as the ratio is concerned. the exact ratio you
chose will mainly depend on your own personal taste and your driving habits
with the car. the shift kit will be the least expensive of the mods and you
can install the "level " kit of your choice. as far as the converter ,id stay
in the 2200-2800 stall range for drivability. the three mods together should
wake up that 330 and give you a good "kick in the pants " as far as
acceleration is concerned. hope my 2 cents helps sx455 rick

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 20:01:25 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Yard Humor - Long

> > 13. Locking Lug Nut Removal Tool - aka #10. Three pound sledge
> Well, I guess this will be one way to spot Buick list members at
> the junkyard.  :-)  Meanwhile, the rest of us will simply bang a
> metric socket over the end of the lug nut/puzzle nut and quickly
> unscrew it like any other lug nut.

Or, do like me, and keep the Olds version wrench in the toolbox.  Every Olds
locker I've seen has used the same size.  Of course, I've yet to see many 
locked
spokes still on a car in a yard, but the idea's amusing, at least...

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 21:48:38 -0400
From: "Loris Scarnecchia" <loris@tir.com>
Subject: Re: Backfires?

Your timing is off.  Too advanced and it will backfire through the carb; too
retarded and it will backfire throught the exhaust.  Someone correct me if
I'm wrong, or is it vice-a-versa?


- -----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
To: 'oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, June 22, 1998 12:08 PM
Subject: Backfires?


>_SUBJECTS_
>
>What sort of conditions cause backfires.  I know timing, but what on a
>computer controlled car will cause a under load backfire?
>
>Mine does it when the engine is under load, say 45 mph, TCC engaged,
>2.14 gears, the A/C on and engine hot (normal traffic temp).  I have a
>180 degree thermostat, but no gauges.
>
>The engine is a 1977 350, running the stock 307 "Y" ECM and sensors.
>Never any fault codes.
>
>Just wondering.  It is not excessive, but unless I tromp on it, it is
>sluggish, backfires, then I get mad and stand on it.  She is fine
>then.....
>
>
>Does this condition ring a bell with anyone?  What will cause any engine
>to backfire if the timing is right?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Thomas Martin
>85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
>91 Bonneville LE 3800
>80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 22:04:51 EDT
From: <KASOLDS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: electronic ignition conversion

Thanks for the advice.  Do you know how difficult this is to install.
Keith

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 20:10:56 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: More Switch Pitch Info

> Stopped by the site in question, and marked it in my 'puter for later
> reference.

Yep, good plan.  I took it one step further, and clicked on "Save as..." and
downloaded the whole thing onto mine.  Just in case the server ever goes down,
or sight moves, dies, etc.

 you get the homepage of a Bu*^k club in Florida, and there are a lot of
> the same things we talk about here, changing front drums to disc, manual
> steering box interchange, etc.

Yeah, actually I got there in the reverse direction.  Pretty decent site.  Got
there from a Yahoo channel.  A few decent Buick sites.  Many with good tech 
info
like that.

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 22:16:11 EDT
From: <GraphixRUs@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Transmissions, Bandwidth, Web Pages

You guys don't know what you are asking for.
My 68 W-30 hasn't moved in 15 months. Since Rog II's accident.
The car is pretty dirty.
Actually i have been gathering some pieces though.
I think now all i need are the big pieces. You know. Bumpers ,front seat
covers etc.
One of these days i will get a page up.
I been looking for someone to volunteer the time & do it for me but i guess it
is harder than you'll say.
Later,
Roger
OCA27353

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 22:16:36, -0500
From: GQPR12E@prodigy.com ( CLAYTON PIERCE)
Subject: re: questions about 78 Cutlass race car

>questions are..
>1) What would be involved in getting the Chevy TH350 to bolt to my
455 Olds?

You would have to find an BOP TH350 and take the guts out of the
Chevy TH350 and put them in the BOP TH350... not as hard as it sounds
if you or your friends have ever dealt with transmissions before.

seen this before on some other race prepped cars... looks like the
cars go down the road sideways :) don't know why... bent frame?  done
on purpose for circle track stability?

>2) The rearend isn't quit centered under the car, it's pushed over
about an
>inch to the right
>     is this a sign of a bent frame?  With the roll cage there I'm
tending to
>think this has
>     more to do with the ladder bars being crooked.
>
>Think it's something to keep away from?

IMHO, '78 Cutlasses are not exactly high dollar items... though they
ARE getting harder to find now... for less could you make your own
***OLDS POWERED*** car?

Don't know if I'd call it something to keep away from... unless
other's on the list have an opinion on that rear end... but I'd think
seriously before sinking that much money into it (remember that you'd
still have the expense of getting a motor and installing it...

>Thanks,
>Ken

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
GQPR12E@Prodigy.com

1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k
miles)
1980 Rover 3500 SD1 (215 V8, FI, 85k miles)
1965 Pontiac Bonneville Hardtop Coupe (389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) -
Look ma' no EGR!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 21:33:11 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: mileage question

>>How come a car's wear and tear  is judged in mileage instead of
>>hours?(aiplanes are judged in hours). For  instance, you could let
yor car
>>engine idle for 100 hours. you wouldn't have any mileage on the car,
but
>there
>>would certainly be wear and tear on the engine. Just wondering.
>>Bruce
>>
Because airplanes don't have odometers.  Also, heavy machinery and
boats don't have odometers either.

The other factor is that airplanes, heavy machinery and boats spend
most of their time running at a constant engine speed.  The constant
engine speed is easier to gauge maintaince needs.  Cars vary
considerably.

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 22:45:36 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: questions about 78 Cutlass race car

Doesn't Summit or one of the other mailorder parts suppliers sell a
bellhousing adaptor just for this purpose?

Thought I remembered hearing about such an adaptor on this list at one time.

Randy


>>questions are..
>>1) What would be involved in getting the Chevy TH350 to bolt to my >455
Olds?
>
>You would have to find an BOP TH350 and take the guts out of the
>Chevy TH350 and put them in the BOP TH350... not as hard as it sounds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 22:55:44 EDT
From: <GraphixRUs@aol.com>
Subject: Intake

I picked up an intake at a swap meet about 4 years.
It is definetely  a small  block intake.
The only numbers on it are   :CFD9
                                          22504068
 Near the thermostat is :   A4
It has the hole for an EGR .It also has hole for choke tube.

Does any one out there know what it came on.?
I still have to dig out that J-2.
Later,
Roger
OCA 27353

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 22:57:57 EDT
From: <CCRR12@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Determining 1955 88 Original Color Scheme

Jeffrey,

Look for your stamped metal ID plate. It should be on the firewall in the
engine compartment. Locate the trim number. It should be a 300 something.

With that number I can decode the original trim combination. I bet it was
coral & gray which would be # 314 or 344, depending on the series. What body
style is your 55 ? Is it a Super 88 ?

Randy in Okla
57 88 J2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 19:58:05 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: questions about 78 Cutlass race car

CLAYTON PIERCE wrote:

> IMHO, '78 Cutlasses are not exactly high dollar items... though they
> ARE getting harder to find now... for less could you make your own
> ***OLDS POWERED*** car?
>
> Don't know if I'd call it something to keep away from... unless
> other's on the list have an opinion on that rear end... but I'd think
> seriously before sinking that much money into it (remember that you'd
> still have the expense of getting a motor and installing it...
>
> Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
> Clayton Pierce,
> zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
> the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
> GQPR12E@Prodigy.com


Actually, when you start pricing out the items Ken listed as part of the
car, there is no way it could be duplicated for less.  Without seeing the
car, $2500 seems cheap to me.  Race cars have never been a good investment
(I'm not talking about LeMans winning GT40's etc.).

Fix the rear end alignment problem, build a budget 455, go bracket racing,
win some races and recoup some of your costs!  Buying a used race car is a
lot cheaper than building one from scratch. Trust me.  Although I would
rather build a car myself, this is not the most economical approach.
We've got almost the amount for this car in the rear end alone under our
67 4-4-2!  See it at http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
- --
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 23:26:34 -0400
From: Jim & Jo Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: question about big blocks

Gerik

        We have an 83 Hurst/Olds with a 10.5:1 455 and a TH350 in it to
race. It has the Torker 455 intake, Q-jet, headers. We had to do some floor
pan, and the A/C box mods for the race headers. It has an early 8.5 3.73:1
rear in it and runs high 12's. The 455 is stock except for a cam, intake and
ignition. Lightning Rod shifter works still. Kind of a sleeper. It also has
15x7 SSIII Chrome wheels on the rear with 275/60-15 tires and 14x6 on the 
front.

Jim Chermack

At 06:26 PM 6/28/1998 EDT, you wrote:
>Hey, my names Gerik and i live in Florida........i've got an '86 Cutlass 442
>and want to put a big block 455 in it, and was curious to know if anyone has
>ever put any type of big block in that year cutlass.....if so i have some
>other questions to ask.  Thanx!!!
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 23:28:22 -0400
From: Jim & Jo Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: shifter cable bracket

Stan

        We have reproductions of the TH400 cable bracket. They are $28.00 new.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts


At 09:12 AM 6/29/1998 -0500, you wrote:
>i have a 1972 cutlass supreme convertible with a floor shifter. i just
>swapped the 350/350 motor/tranny for a 455/400 combo.
>
>*   i just realized that the bracket that attaches the shifter cable to the
>350 tranny is different than the bracket needed to attach the cable to the
>400 tranny. i need the 400 tranny/floor shift cable mounting bracket.
>
>*   is the "u" shaped/steering linkage bracket that the end of the shifter
>cable attaches to different on the 350 vs 400 tranny. the reason i ask is
>that the 350 tranny that i took out, had a "u" shape bracket with an
>integral extension coming out of the bottom for the shift cable to attach to
>and the "u" shaped bracket that came with the 400 tranny does not have the
>shift cable attachment extension. i am assuming the the 400 plain "u"
>bracket may have been for a column shift set up. if this is the case, would
>the 350 "end of cable/steering linkage" mounting bracket work on the 400
>tranny?
>i have asked other people on the web but have not heard back yet and i
>figured my odds of finding the right bracket(s) would increase dramatically
>(just in case they don't have what i need)
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 23:30:48, -0500
From: GQPR12E@prodigy.com ( CLAYTON PIERCE)
Subject: re: 350 to 455 g-body

Be extra careful with the fan... I honestly don't know if you'll have
fan clearance with 350 mounts!
Can't say I've ever done this myself though!  Fan was close in my '84
with the 350!

> You want to ensure that you check the fitment of EVERYTHING as the
> engine is going in.  Interference with other components.  The 350
mounts
> will have the engine sitting taller in the engine bay than if you
could
> use big engine mounts, but I think everything will do ok, as long
as you
> use a standard intake manifold and drop base air cleaner for hood
> clearance.  Besides, with using the 350 frame mounts you can ensure
the
> correct angular alignment will remain undisturbed.
>
> Good luck,
> Mike Rothe

Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
GQPR12E@Prodigy.com

1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k
miles)
1980 Rover 3500 SD1 (215, FI, 85k miles)
1965 Pontiac Bonneville Hardtop Coupe (389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 23:34:06 EDT
From: <Dan442Olds@aol.com>
Subject: unsubscribe oldsmobile

unsubscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 22:08:41 -0600
From: "Kevin Meredith" <bkmeredith@telusplanet.net>
Subject: Was there once an Olds Limo?

Driving south of Calgary on the Shepard Road this afternoon, I spied with my
little eyes a white 98-ish or Dynamic 88-ish 64 or 65 Oldsmobile. It's got
the O-L-D-S-M-O-B-I-L-E spelled out on the hood, four BIG doors that wrap up
over the edge of the roofline slightly, and about a 4 to 5 foot stretch
behind the rear doors. The car's actually dent free but some a** has put a
rock or something through the curved rear window.  Pretty cool looking car
actually, for a limo.  I thought it might be a hearse at first but it's
definately a stretched four door car...and it looks like a factory or a darn
fine after-market stretch.  Anybody know anything about a car like this?

Thanks...Kevin.

Kevin Meredith
70 Vista Cruiser
mailto:bkmeredith@telusplanet.net
http://www.telusplanet.net/public/mereditk/bkolds.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 00:42:07 EDT
From: <Socalolds@aol.com>
Subject: Re: metro vs. soft seal?/further questions!

Roger,
If anyone needs Metro products I distribute for them and can you $$. They are
a good company and have a 15 year quarantee on all their weatherstripping. E
mail me privately anyone who needs stuff.
Dennis

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 23:02:59 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: BB & SB G-Bod motor mounts

> Be extra careful with the fan... I honestly don't know if you'll have
> fan clearance with 350 mounts!

A couple days ago I'd posted a notice about the motor mount differences, and
that if you use the small block mounts, you'd have to redo the crossmember
mount, since the driveline angles would be wrong.  I think someone earlier had
mentioned that, also.  Here's another warning about the fan, using the small
block mounts.  Here's the deal, and I've been hashing this out for a couple 
days
now.

The 350 and 455 mounts all sit in the same places on the block.  The oil pans
are the same, etc.  The cranks are in the same place, as is the cam and water
pump.  Heads are farther away, and intake is higher (on BB.)  I think that's
~all~.  Since the BB is taller, the BB mounts hold it lower onto the frame, to
increase hood clearance.

So, my conclusion is this.  When retaining the ~vehicle's~ factory mounts 
(upper
and lower) the Big Block will have it's crank, bell housing bolts, and water
pump (and fan) in exactly the same location as the Small Block did.  The intake
and heads are in different spots, so air cleaner/hood clearance will become an
issue, as will exhaust routing.  Since the bell housing hasn't moved, neither
has the front of the tranny.  So, neither has the rear.  So, no adjustment
should be needed at all.

Now, if you retain the Big Block's original mounts into the the Small Block's
vehicle, the entire block will sit lower.  Including crank, waterpump, fan, and
bellhousing.  ~That's~ where you'll start running into problems.  The crank
pulley may rub your sway bar, your fan will sit lower in the shroud, your
radiator hoses may have clearance problems, your tailshaft of the tranny will 
be
~higher,~ and your hood ~still~ may or may not close properly.

So, "in conclusion," my ~professional~ ASE Master Certified, mostly 
brain-fried,
recommendation is to stick with the ~vehicle's~ original mounts.  Throw the BB
mounts in the trunk of a parts car, and forget about 'em.  You can get an H/O
scoop out of Lauren for about $250, and cut out if you need, and another $50 or
so will yield a low profile air cleaner.  OR, you can have a custom fan shroud
made, get a smaller flex fan that doesn't work worth a #$@$, spend $150 on
braided steel radiator hoses, with custom fabricated hose brackets to keep 'em
out of the belts, spend about 12 hours on jackstands sticking fat washers under
the tranny crossmember trying to get the driveline angles ~close~ to right, and
~then~ spend $50 on a low profile air cleaner and $250 on a scoop since the
@$#!%$@#%$ hood ~still~ won't close right!  ;)

Nuff said?

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 23:05:45 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Was there once an Olds Limo?

I've never heard of these, but that don't mean much.  Another list member is
currently on vacation in his 67 Olds 98 Ambulance.  I don't imagine a limo 
would
be that much of a stretch...

	Ooh, that sucked!  I know.  But the pun's so bad I just ~couldn't~ 
bring myself
to delete it!!!

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 01:14:58 EDT
From: <WMACHINES@aol.com>
Subject: W-30 alum intake Forsale

Ok gang, here are the details once more,   I have in my possesion one 1971-72
W-30 alum intake forsale.  It says Olds-455.  Now the intake has had some
cracks repaired.  I am going to get some pics of it tomorrow.  Anyway, I am
asking 400.00 firm plus shipping costs.  The repairs were done really nice.  I
took the intake to Lansing Homecoming, but no one was looking to unload 400.
Please email me directly or call me before 2:00PM eastern. Also the date on
the bottom of the intake is Sept 71.  I am going to the Nationals.  I will be
there the 17th and 18th.  I will be by Mark Cornea's tent (DR. DECAL)  If I
don't sell the intake through the olds list, I will be taking the intake there
to sell.  Thanks Mark

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
1972 442 W-30
wmachines@aol.com
313-336-8135

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 01:15:13 EDT
From: <DiscoOzzy@aol.com>
Subject: Re: rear disc(my two bits)

In a message dated 6/29/98 9:16:23 PM !!!First Boot!!!,
fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com writes:

<< Niiiice attitude,

 Remind me not to pull out in front of you...
 Of course I'd advise that nobody pulls out infront of me either :-)

 Brent Pinkstaff
 '70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo) 4 wheel drums/non-power

 >>
HEY! I never said I didn't connect the brake lines to my rear end! I just said
IF they don't work better, they at least look good. I mean, are custom wheels
any better than steel wheels? not really, but some folks would rather spend
$1,000 on 50lbs of aluminum than run with hubcaps. I'm not sure what the
weight is on Mr. Hankey, but I know my GP can be loaded down to 4,000 lbs and
it will still do the 100 to 0 stop in about 1/1,000 the distance you can do
it. Ok, not that good, but next time you have those drums up to 100, stand on
the brake and tell me what you feel. More than likely, you will feel like you
are trying to press about 20,000lbs. And as a little more gas on this fire, If
you happen to pull in front of me, it won't be for long--I have a thing for
putting people in my past. It's all outta love, man! peace,
Kerry

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 00:26:33 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: rear disc(my two bits)

Now, the CS130 alternator, on the other hand...
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com

Funny you should mention, just had the alternator on my '94 Firechicken go
out and man did that suck.

Yes, I still own the friggin' car, I'm ALMOST back into the ranks of being
a proud Oldsmobile owner...supposed to go look at an '83 98 this week, to
drive during the rebuild of the dream car, which is STILL making itself
awfully scarce...any further reports on that '69 442 convert. in Illinois,
Indiana, one of those states up there that begins with "I"?
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons 				Universal Internet Number (ICQ) 
- 3585737
 Solutions Provider	   	b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 Computer Approach	 	 	http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Work: 713-627-8588		
									Home 
:	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 MIS Major - UT Austin 				(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
 5606 Grape					Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 Houston, TX 77096-1114				(713) 318-5938	
- --------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 23:16:00 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: 83 getting better

Well, after the nice weekend day we had yesterday, I decided to celebrate a
bit.  Spend a few bucks (gasp) at Napa, and left with a new ball joint and a
pair of SensaTracks for the front.  Been in need for ~way~ too long.  (New 
shock
boxes recommended replacing shocks with 12K miles on 'em!  I figured at 160K, I
got some good mileage out of the factory ones, and they were probably due,
anyway.  (Since it handled like a sloppy wet noodle.)  After work, and in
celebration of another ~beautiful~ day outside, I started to put my freshly
cleaned carpet back in.  Just get it slid in place, and started vacuuming, when
I noticed the clouds rolling in.  Then it started pouring.  Then I started
swearing...  Alot.  Kinda sucked.  .19" in about half an hour, unofficially.
Tried keeping as much rain out as possible, and kept at it.  Got the interior
all done, and came home.  Started doing the shocks at dusk, since it was nice
again.  Got 'em done when it was, uhh, considerably darker.  Test Drive!  Can
you say ~slalom?~  I noticed the cop going home as I was leaving, so....  heh
heh...  With that new sway bar and the new shocks, 'taint half bad.  Still need
to do that upper ball joint, but it's ~sooooo~ much better already.  Still got
my vibration, though.  I'm sure that ball joint has something to do with that.
(It's shot!)  Anyway, I'm actually looking forward to the highway trip to work
tomorrow...  Quick lane changes, etc...

Now, if I could just get enough power for it to be able to get out of it's own
way!  What a dog!


Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 01:19:51 EDT
From: <W31Sleeper@aol.com>
Subject: Re: electronic ignition conversion

you can try Mallory's unilite conversion,it  fits under the stock cap,and you
can always go back to points if you have to...low maintience and easy
install!!!   just my two cents....w31sleeper@aol.com    Rob

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 01:23:34 -0400
From: Joe & Toni Artwell <tjf26@gte.net>
Subject: Re: G-tech G meter, real or phoney?

My friend has one and we use it all the time and it works. It does have
to do with physics. My father-in-law flies in the Air Force and is into
cars. He said it is an accelinometer(?). Basically it calculates how
much force it takes to move a given amount of weight and then measures
the G-forces..It does work pretty good.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 23:32:22 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: rear disc(my two bits)

> but I know my GP can be loaded down to 4,000 lbs and
> it will still do the 100 to 0 stop in about 1/1,000 the distance you
> can do it. Ok, not that good, but next time you have those drums up
> to 100, stand on the brake and tell me what you feel.

I haven't been following this thread all that closely, but I'll add my 2 cents
here.  (Be up to a buck before long!)

The thing about rear discs is that they really don't do much.  It's a law of
physics that the front brakes do most of the work.  Under any braking
conditions, there's a weight transfer to the front wheels.  Under light
conditions, the front brakes are responsible for roughly 60% of the braking
ability.  As the demand gets higher (faster, slamming brakes harder, etc) that
figure goes up to around 80%.  Yep.  That means the back tires are damn near 
off
the ground.  So, in heavy braking situations, if your back brakes are really
efficient, as with discs, they're gonna lock up on ya, and that's when trouble
has a tendancy to start.  To combat this occurance, they run a different
proportioning valve in 4 disc setups, ~limiting~ the rear to a small 
percentage
of their ability.  Which is also done with drums.  ~I~ sure wouldn't spend big
bucks to switch.  But there again, it does ~look~ cool, and ~sounds~ cool too,
(Yeah, well ~I've~ got 4 wheel disc brakes!)

The ~upside~ of rear discs is the reliability factor, and the maintanance ease.
Much simpler to do a brake job on discs.  Cheaper, too, once you factor in
hardware kits.  But ~I~ wouldn't spend a thousand bucks on 'em.  Nope.  Fronts,
on the other hand, are an entirely different situation.


Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 02:18:31 EDT
From: <DiscoOzzy@aol.com>
Subject: Re: rear disc(my two bits-Again!)

In a message dated 6/30/98 5:34:13 AM !!!First Boot!!!, buehner@lyrea.com
writes:

<< The thing about rear discs is that they really don't do much.  It's a law
of
 physics that the front brakes do most of the work.  Under any braking
 conditions, there's a weight transfer to the front wheels.  Under light
 conditions, the front brakes are responsible for roughly 60% of the braking
 ability.  As the demand gets higher (faster, slamming brakes harder, etc)
that
 figure goes up to around 80%.  Yep.  That means the back tires are damn near
off >>

AH-HA! see? I never said I use them exclusively for stopping all forward
motion--no siree, I like to get 'er up to about 90mph in reverse and stomp the
brakes. Try that in a front disc/rear drum.

And as a final word for all you rear disc haters--When was the last time YOUR
E-brake held your car on a uphill position? HUH! Take them apples! Now what
you got?!? I look cool, and my tranny doesn't bind on a hill! A.P.B., come get
some! peace,
Kerry

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 02:33:35 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: rear disc(my two bits-Again!)

In a message dated 98-06-30 02:20:29 EDT, you write:

<< And as a final word for all you rear disc haters--When was the last time
YOUR
 E-brake held your car on a uphill position? HUH! Take them apples! Now what
 you got?!? I look cool, and my tranny doesn't bind on a hill! A.P.B., come
get
 some! peace,
 Kerry >>

I've been watching this string for awhile...two comments..if they aren't
effective, why would a car manufacturer ever install them? (Early C*maro's
come to mind, and the testing they did on them) Secondly, if people weren't so
lazy, their rear drums would hold fine on a hill. It's called crawl under the
car and tighten the e-brake cable. Takes about 10 minutes, and NONE of my
vehicles bind the tranny on a hill.   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 00:34:22 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: rear disc(my two bits-Again!)

I like to get 'er up to about 90mph in reverse and stomp the
> brakes. Try that in a front disc/rear drum.

Well, that ~is~ a good point.  Things switch around quite a bit in that
situation.  However, with the proportioning valve set in its normal position
(which includes most of 'em, unless you're running an adjustable, preferably
from ~in~ the car) your back brakes are hydraulically limited to a small
percentage of their potential.  Imagine how much fun you'd have if you could
adjust that feature!  ;)


> And as a final word for all you rear disc haters--When was the last time YOUR
> E-brake held your car on a uphill position? HUH!

Another good point.  Wait.  When was the last time I even ~thought~ about using
my E-brake?  Hmm...  I don't think mine works.  Tranny does, though...  No, 
wait
a minute.  One time last winter, I parked on a steep icy driveway.  Put in 
park,
set E-brake, and held on the service brakes, too.  All four locked...  All four
slid.  Ended up on the sidewalk...  Don't think discs would have helped.
Chains, maybe, but discs, doubtful! :)

> and my tranny doesn't bind on a hill!

OK, I'll give ya that point, too.  Still wouldn't spend the $$$$ myself, but
there are those advantages, of course.

> A.P.B., come get some!

???  Musta missed something somewhere.

Take care.

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 00:55:26 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: rear disc - Mo Money! (No $0.02 about it!:)

> I've been watching this string for awhile...two comments..if they aren't
> effective, why would a car manufacturer ever install them? (Early C*maro's
> come to mind, and the testing they did on them)

Whoa, hit the brakes right there!!!  Who ever said ~anything~ involving cam*ros
~ever~ made sense!?!?  :)

Why the testing?  Front discs made one hell of a difference, and the simplicity
of design/function is far superior.  The biggest cost is changeover mod's.  In 
a
production line, I imagine these costs were astronomical.  Since the 
performance
benefits really weren't that big, they probably axed the plan.  My guesses, at
least.  Personally, I like discs much better, and given the ~free~ choice, to
build a car ground up, I'd probably go with 'em all around.  However, I still
contend that I wouldn't spend the big bucks required to convert a car to 'em.  
I
just don't see the performance gain involved.  My money has many better uses
than that.

> Secondly, if people weren't so
> lazy, their rear drums would hold fine on a hill. It's called crawl
> under the car and tighten the e-brake cable.

Yes, good arguement.  I didn't feel like getting too deep there.  The rear
brakes will self adjust if in proper condition, but the parking brake ~won't.~
You need to do that yourself.  Good point to bring up.  Disc brake setups are
very similar in that aspect.  I think they're actually cable actuated, too.

And since we're back on that thread, I'll combine a couple thoughts here:


>> When was the last time YOUR E-brake held your car on a uphill
>> position? HUH! Take them apples!

For well under a grand, I can get a dual line-lock setup that will hold all 
four
securely, probably up to 50 degrees or better!  So there -- You can have the
apple cores back ;)

Here again, I wouldn't put my hard earned dollars there, either.

OH!!!!!!!!!  Just got this one!  Disk brakes are a constant contact item.  
Drums
are not.  Do you really want anything resisting the rear wheels when you the
yellows go out?  That extra .001 second, ya know.  Knock off a hundredth or so
on your 60'...  (Maybe not, but in theory!)  :)
- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
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Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 00:59:32 -0600
From: "Igor" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Subject: Carb and Emmisions

OKAY.  This is a very important question to me and I need an answer ASAP
couse I am in the process of finishing my 455.  It is a '76 motor (from
Delta) with .030 TRW pistons (10:1CR), ported and polished J heads
(standard valves, heads redone), resurfaced rods and crank.  The cam is
lunati 272/280AD, .448/.472lift.  The chain is true DBL roller, sealed
power oil pump.  I am using the standard intake manifold.  This motor is
replacing the 307 from the '81 Delta 88.  I would like to use the 307 carb
cause it is freshly rebuilt and in good shape.  As far as the 455 carb
goes, it is REBUILDABLE, but I would rather not couse it gave me hell when
I last drove it.  Can I use the 307 carb and what I must do to it.  What
are the different CFM ratings for the two carbs.  Should I just try to
rebuild the 455 carb.  Remeber, I want as much power as possible.  I could
buy a new 600cfm electic chocke holly but would rather not couse I am on a
budget.
Second, I would like to get rid of ALL emmisions possible on this motor
while still running the stock carb and intake.  Is this possible and what
should I nix.  I want top power/engine compartment room/smooth running
operation.  Do I get rid of the evap. canister, what about the EGR and how
should I modify the carb.  I am not even sure what were the emissions stuff
on the '76 Delta.  Remeber, I bumped the CR.  Should I use the accesories
from the 307 or the 455.  As far as ignition goes, stock HEI with a advance
kit (not much couse remeber the CR) and an ACCEL ignition coil.

As far as exaust, I am hoping that headers work out.  I ordered HEDMANs for
a '76 Delta and hope they will fit the '81 with minor mods.  Again, if any
sugesstions, please help.  I would like dual 2.5" with Dynomax mufflers.

And last, how much power can I expect out of this 455.  Thanks.

Igor Todorovic, UofC
1981 Delta 88 (455/TH400, 255/60/15 BFG, 2.41limited slip)
1981 98 Regency (every option, 307/200r4/propane)
1976 Delta 88 (now parts car, was 455)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360, RVcam, 4:10 gears, tire smoker, king off the line)
1995 Intrepid (3.3L, dads car, okay, but no Delta)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 05:48:55 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Loss of brake fluid

I am totally confused about the loss of my brake fluid.  My brakes went out
in my 71 cutlass Friday. The fluid was half full in the bowl for my front
disk brakes. I filled it up and starting pumping the brakes to find were the
leak was. No leak appeared and the fluid was still full. So were did the
fluid loss come from and why doesn't it happen again?

Please help

Thanks


===========================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
Cutlass403@ameritech.net
1971 Cutlass S 455
Westside! Chitown IL
===========================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 07:32:22 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Loss of brake fluid

Sam:

It may only happen when the brakes get real hot. When was the last time
the wheel cylinders were rebuilt. If they get hot the seals will leak.
when they are cool they hold just fine. Pull off a wheel and look for
the telltale signs.
It happened to me.

Mark Hahn
75 Delta 88 Conv

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 06:46:10 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: Loss of brake fluid

Actually the wheel cylinder are new. This happen to the front breaks

> ----------
> From: 	Mark Hahn[SMTP:mahahn@fuse.net]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Tuesday, June 30, 1998 6:32 AM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: Loss of brake fluid
>
> Sam:
>
> It may only happen when the brakes get real hot. When was the last time
> the wheel cylinders were rebuilt. If they get hot the seals will leak.
> when they are cool they hold just fine. Pull off a wheel and look for
> the telltale signs.
> It happened to me.
>
> Mark Hahn
> 75 Delta 88 Conv
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 08:01:05 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Loss of brake fluid

Sam:

I'm assuming the outside of the reservoir is not wet. I'd still have to
pull the wheels and check just to make sure.
Did the brakes fail?
Maybe there was just some air hiding in there.
If it was a true fluid loss it had to go somewhere. And it would have to
be wet,
unless it was a boil off.
Good luck.

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 07:04:04 -0500
From: "Jim and Pat Juon" <jimpat@netins.net>
Subject: Re: Was there once an Olds Limo?

While waiting for a stoplight yesterday I saw a white Olds 98 limo sitting
in front of the Tip Top Lounge in Ames, IA with a "for sale" sign on it!

Pat J.

'53 "Black Beauty"
'53 "Bridges of Madison Co."

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 09:00:12 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Headers & "H" vs. "X"

1) Anybody had any experience (good or bad) with Headers by "Ed" in Minnesota?

2) I've read several articles on the use of crossover pipes (both "H" and
"X") on the exhaust system and how they add horsepower and reduce noise
(which means you can run less restrictive mufflers).  The physics of it
makes sense to me but I haven't seen any concrete data on which is more
productive.  At first glance the "X" looks like it would be better because
of the flow pattern.  But sometimes something that looks good to the eye
doesn't take into consideration what is actually happening.  It might be
that the resonance reaction in an "H" pipe makes it more efficient.  The
"H" crossover is certainly simpler to build and also may be the only choice
if the space is real tight.  Anybody had any experience with this or have a
handle on how to figure it out?

Jonathan Parke
'72 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 08:59:45 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@leadbelt.com
Subject: Re: Adios

Sometimes its hard to know what to take seriously. I think Chris Urban was
givin Chris Witt sh*t as Chris Witt is inclined to give others sh*t. Not all
of it is serious as a heart attack. I suspicion these two have been know to
dish to each other for some years now.

I too am indebeted to Chris Witt both for parts & information. I will miss
his participation. Sometimes when taking myself too seriously, though, I
felt like he was out to ridicule me at every opportunity --- and maybe he
did. So freakin' what.

Too much soap box from me.

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 09:54:35 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: BB & SB G-Bod motor mounts

> The 350 and 455 mounts all sit in the same places on the block.  The oil pans
> are the same, etc.  The cranks are in the same place, as is the cam and water
> pump.  Heads are farther away, and intake is higher (on BB.)  I think that's
> ~all~.  Since the BB is taller, the BB mounts hold it lower onto the frame, 
to
> increase hood clearance.

Hmmm.  Ya KNOW......I always thought this to be common knowledge to
anyone who's owned Olds engines.  I've also read the "horror" stories of
using existing mounts and never could understand how it was moving
everything around on the bottom end just because they switched to a
455.  I just chalked all that talk up to a bunch of BS.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1339
*********************************
