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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1343


oldsmobile-digest       Thursday, July 2 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1343



Our neighbors holiday..!!
Re: Oxygen sensor
Re: Intake
Re: running hot?
Re: Chrome Wheels for sale
ssII rally rims
PICTURE OF RIMS
OOPS...The url for the rims...  http://www.oldsmobile.net/round.jpg
Re: color details & ramblings
Re: color details & ramblings
Re: rear disc(my two bits-Again! REPEATED
parts for sale/and cars
Re: Our neighbors holiday..!!
partscar!
Re: '73 Hurst for sale; Fort Campbell, Kentucky
Re: Our neighbors holiday..!!
Advance Ignition Timing problems
Re: Vinyl Seats
Three Questions
NW 4-4-2 Picnic
Brake Humor
(long) Karl's Starter Swap, Bracket question, and the real problem.
Re: Vinyl Seats
Jason's 1st Question
Re: oldsmobile nationals
Re: running hot?
Hello, please don't beat me!
Re: Hello, please don't beat me!
Returned mail: User unknown
Re: oldsmobile nationals
Re: running hot?
Thanks/68 4-4-2
Olds and non Olds
Re: running hot?
Re: Three Questions
Computers/ $0 Down/ Most Being Approved!
Re: oldsmobile nationals
Re: Three Questions
unsubscribe
Re: Hello, please don't beat me!
Re: Our neighbors holiday..!!
exhaust manifolds
Convertible Frame Q.
Temp. (cooling)
Re: AC conversion
Re: Convertible Frame Q.
Re: OLDS NEON (not that other little car)
all members
Cruise Control Question
RE: running hot?
It's official, 88's are dead.
RE: Advance Ignition Timing problems
Date:	Thu, 2 Jul 1998 08:16:44 -0500
Head bolt confusion
Re: It's official, 88's are dead.
K&N filter top & homemade ramair
Re: It's official, 88's are dead.
cleaning seats
RE: cleaning seats
RE: cleaning seats
RE: cleaning seats

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 17:53:53 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Our neighbors holiday..!!

I just noticed it on my calendar, so I'm gonna be the first to
say...."Happy Canada Day" to all the listers from North of our
border..!!

Now somebody from Canada fill me in on the signigicance of "Canda
Day"!!!



"If you could explain everything.........
 What be be left to believe in........??

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 17:47:51 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Oxygen sensor

Yeah, 7/8" open end is what I used, too.  I have all original
accessories/brackets that came on an 84 307, and it's not TOO hard to get
to.  Just be careful about loosening the sensor when the engine's still
warm.  Those exhaust manifolds get mighty hot!  :-)

Jason Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock/

- -----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, June 30, 1998 1:56 PM
Subject: Re: Oxygen sensor


>On my 85 Cutlass with the 307 (Tubular Steel Manifolds) I was able to
>get to it with a O2 sensor socket and long extensions.  On the same car
>with the 350 and a 80-81 260 manifold (from the computer controlled era)
>I can get it with an open end wrench.  7/8" I think.
>
>Note:  I do not have the AIR system, this allows access to the sensor
>from the side by AC.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 17:45:07 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Intake

The A4 intakes came on 1980-1984 307's and the A5 intakes came on 1985-1990
307's (we're talking about the Y-code motors now).

And yes, the A4's flow better than the A5's, just like their associated
cylinder heads.

Jason Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock/

- -----Original Message-----
From: KarlAune@aol.com <KarlAune@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, June 30, 1998 3:22 PM
Subject: Re: Intake


>My understanding is that this is the "A4" aluminium intake which may be
found
>on '85 - era 307's (or whatever the small block was at the time).


...snip...


>There is also an "A5" aluminium intake.
>I do not know what they came on.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 17:55:56 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: running hot?

No, that's not too warm.  Olds specifies a 195 degree thermostat for this
car, so the t'stat isn't opened fully until around 222 degrees or so.  My 84
Cutlass with the 307 runs at around 210-215 around town, A/C off.  If I'm in
stop-and-go traffic with the A/C on in 100 degree heat, it's around 220 or
maybe 225 sometimes, but it does hold right there.

If it weren't for the rusting of internal cooling system parts,  you could
run straight water in the summertime.  Anti-freeze does very little to
change the boiling point of the fluid.  The 15 lbs. of pressure from the
radiator cap is what raises the boiling point to around 265 degrees.  Water
conducts heat much better than the water/anti-freeze solution, so water
would be fine in the summer...except for the fact the anti-freeze is a
lubricant for the water pump and a cooling system rust inhibitor.  In the
summertime, many anti-freeze manufacturers recommend a 70/30
water/anti-freeze mix.  More conservative in the wintertime, though, like
50% of each.

Hope this helps...

Jason Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock/

- -----Original Message-----
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, June 30, 1998 11:21 PM
Subject: running hot?


>i just installed some gages in my '78 cutlass.  the temp gage reads 220
most
>of the time.  isnt that a little warm?  oil pressure is 30 while cruising.
my
>trip meter is messed up, too.  i cant get it to reset.  but, that is
another
>subject altogether.  really all i need to know is if i should be worried
about
>220 degrees.  thanks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 17:41:00 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Chrome Wheels for sale

Ack!  Jason L., let us know when you've got the chrome'd SSIII 15" wheels
in!  A bunch of use on the list want them, ya know.  :-)

Seriously, 100 bucks is a REAL good price for these!  From the dealer,
they're over $300 apiece.

Jason Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock/

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jason P. Labay <jlabay@ee.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, July 01, 1998 12:59 PM
Subject: Re: Chrome Wheels for sale


>Damn maybe I should be charging more for the sets I sell.  I just let a set
of 4 15x7 SSIII wheels go for $100. Oh well
>cost me nothing to get them :-/
>
>Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
>98 Silverado C2500.....Vortec 350, A4, 4.10
>80 Olds 442 W-30........350, A3, 2.73
>75 Hurst/Olds W-25.....350, A3, 2.56
>72 Cutlass Supreme.....drag car project

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 15:01:27 -0700
From: "David Seiver - Account Executive" <DavidS@AnaServe.com>
Subject: ssII rally rims

I am still looking for 2 15" rims...
Any Leads?

David Seiver
Account Representative
AnaServe, Inc. - The Future of Web Hosting
Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283
Fax: 714.250.7265
e-mail: davids@anaserve.com
Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 15:02:35 -0700
From: "David Seiver - Account Executive" <DavidS@AnaServe.com>
Subject: PICTURE OF RIMS

Here is a picture of the rims I am looking for in 15"
PLEASE HELP FOLKS!

David Seiver
Account Representative
AnaServe, Inc. - The Future of Web Hosting
Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283
Fax: 714.250.7265
e-mail: davids@anaserve.com
Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 15:04:15 -0700
From: "David Seiver - Account Executive" <DavidS@AnaServe.com>
Subject: OOPS...The url for the rims...  http://www.oldsmobile.net/round.jpg

http://www.oldsmobile.net/round.jpg
http://www.oldsmobile.net/round.jpg
http://www.oldsmobile.net/round.jpg

David Seiver
Account Representative
AnaServe, Inc. - The Future of Web Hosting
Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283
Fax: 714.250.7265
e-mail: davids@anaserve.com
Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 18:11:50 EDT
From: <SOMMERVLLE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: color details & ramblings

hey i see that you have a 69 parts 442. want to get rid of some parts? let me
know Thanks Chris

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 18:12:33 EDT
From: <GT5726@aol.com>
Subject: Re: color details & ramblings

Hey!...Everything from the oilpan to the valvecovers was gold...minus the
sensors(oil pressure, water temp,etc.etc.). Even the original oil filter was
painted gold as it was installed prior to painting in the factory. natural
finished items include the manafolds,carb linkage, and switchpitch sensor(if
equiped). All mounting brackets for PS, Alt, and AC are
semiflat black. Alternator is natural finish. all nonpainted fasteners are
zincdichromite.
Carb was zinc plated also...If anyone knows anything I left out or err'ed
on...please let me know, as these are MY findings so far from three years of
research and restoration of my
'65 442.I also am certain that the enginebay area was painted semiflat as
well....:)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 17:06:27 -0500
From: "Lou J. Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: rear disc(my two bits-Again! REPEATED

To. GT5726@aol.com
AMEN BROTHER!
Lou Biggs lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 15:41:46 -0700
From: "mr. coy d. arbogast" <coyster@earthlink.net>
Subject: parts for sale/and cars

coyster@earthlink.net
We are cleaning out the garage and have the following parts for sale. All
parts are located in Nevada

1 deck lid very good condition with trim   $45.00 plus shipping
1 pair doors for 70-72 Cutlass Coupe or hardtop   $75.00 for the pair plus
shipping
1 Deck lid 70-72 Cutlass                       $30.00 bare deck lid plus
shipping
Misc trim parts and tailight housings for 69 $35.00 for the box plus
shipping.

Plus we have a 76 olds cutlass salon for sale in southern california for
1000.00 obo
and a 68 Holiday cutlass sport coupe with lots of new parts for $4000.00 obo

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 15:48:13 -0700
From: Rick <truric@imag.net>
Subject: Re: Our neighbors holiday..!!

At 05:53 PM 7/1/98 +0000, you wrote:
>I just noticed it on my calendar, so I'm gonna be the first to
>say...."Happy Canada Day" to all the listers from North of our
>border..!!
>
>Now somebody from Canada fill me in on the signigicance of "Canda
>Day"!!!
>
>
>well thank you ..it's kinda wierd haveing a holiday on a wenday but hey im
not at work so  YEH!!!!!
as far as what is Canada day this is the birthday of Canada im sorry to say
that im not a big flag waver but you got to love our medical system
place olds contents here  (there no one can get mad now) olds olds

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 18:53:39 EDT
From: <GT5726@aol.com>
Subject: partscar!

I will be purchasing a 65 442 in the near future...It will come with SEVERAL
extras that I do not need.I will basically have a complete 442 parts car with
spare fenders,
automatic console, 2.5speed auto,400 motor(70,000miles),no interior parts are
salvageable, glass is #4 rating, but it will be good for sheetmetal, as it is
mostly cancerfree!I really only want the 4-speed and 4-speed console, posi
unit, and doors.
evrything else will be up for grabs CHEAP!....I will have very little invested
in this car so I'm not looking to get rich...just unload the salvageable stuff
to you (MY) fellow
Oldsmobile fans, then sell the skeleton (or GIVE!) to my local classic salvage
yard!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 23:21:22 +0000
From: clarence wirtz <cw63nova@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: '73 Hurst for sale; Fort Campbell, Kentucky

 Maybe this will still be around when I visist my grandbaby in a couple
weeks. I will go look at it. This is neat. I will get to see my first
grandbaby and shop for Olds's while at Fort Cambell.  Maybe some one is
trying to tell me something.

At 08:56 AM 7/1/98 -0400, you wrote:
>In the local paper this morning:
>
>"1973 Hurst Olds
> 1 of 1420, original condition
> swivel buckets, daily driver
>
> Best Offer (He has this car in his ad with 3 others, non Olds)
>
>
Clarence
86 Cutlass 4DR 307 O/D 2.56's
San Antonio

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 18:46:30 -0400
From: "Graham Stewart" <graham.stewart@utoronto.ca>
Subject: Re: Our neighbors holiday..!!

> I just noticed it on my calendar, so I'm gonna be the first to
> say...."Happy Canada Day" to all the listers from North of our
> border..!!
> Now somebody from Canada fill me in on the signigicance of "Canda
> Day"!!!

Canada Day (July 1st each year) marks the anniversary of Canada becoming an
independent nation from Great Britain in 1867.  At that point it was only
four (?) provinces.  The other 6 joined at various times later.  Prior to
1867 "Canada" was a British colony similar to the original U.S. colonies
prior to 1776.  There was no revolution, however; independence came about
more or less peacefully.  "Independence" is a relative term since (as far as
I know), the Queen of England is still technically the head of state
here(!).  Thankfully it's been a long time since any interference has come
from across the ocean.  It's a similar holiday for us as July 4th down there
(maybe a bit less intense).

Of course for many of us it is also an excellent time to go out and drive
the Oldsmobiles around town ...

Happy July 4th, BTW.

Graham Stewart
Toronto, Canada
graham.stewart@utoronto.ca

74 Ninety-Eight
69 Delta 88 Convertible
66 Toronado
67 Bu*ck Wildcat

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 20:41:13 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: Advance Ignition Timing problems

O.k. guys, I'm trying to follow the instructions on Super Tuning the 350's
ignition timing. I'm trying to achieve 30 deg. of total timing by 4000 rpm.
Because the timing marks stop at approx. 15 I have to measure from the
ignition mark on the balancer, clock wise, 1 7/8 in. to indicate 30 deg. I
did this and run the engine to 4000 (momentarily) but the timing mark I just
scribed is somewhere at -4 to -8 ATC. Way too late. I recurved the HEI unit
and I'm using one medium spring and one light spring. The weights are also
changes to Accel's. Anyone know why I'm not achieve full advance by 4000rpm?
Also, my initial timing with the vacc. adv. unplugged is set to 12 deg
@1000rpm (this I used from the instructions for the 69 W31 engine setting),
which should yield 30 deg BTC by 4000  rpm. Nowhere near that. I'm going to
change the springs to both light and see if that makes a difference. Any
ideas...? What should I check for ?

'72 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 21:31:28 EDT
From: <R4C442@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Vinyl Seats

Hey David!
    Get yourself an Eastwood catalog. They offer a vinyl repair kit.
                                                            Ron Forsee
                                                            65 442-Meister

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 21:56:37 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Three Questions

Hi again gang.  I have three questions, all of which I can't get answered
elsewhere, so I'll try the Olds list (the list can ALWAYS answer my Q's).
This isn't ~OLDS~ related, but I'm asking these questions ~about~ my Olds,
so here 'goes...

1)  I have a squeak/squawk in the front fender (passenger side) and it's
because the metal bumper and the metal fender are rubbing together when I
hit bumps, etc.  My question is: can I put some clear (white lithium?)
grease in-between the two metal parts, so they'll rub together smoothly
(keep it clean, gents...!)?  I figure that the grease won't hurt the paint
and if the paint does get worn away because of the parts flexing, the grease
will keep the rust out.  I'll put the grease where you can't seen it from
the outside, so I'm figuring that this'll be okay to do, just wondering
about paint affects.

2)  Thomas Martin can't seem to keep quiet about how good his Hooker exhaust
system is (I assume Tom L. likes his, too?)!  I was wondering if the test
pipe that comes with the system can be cut to sort of slip-fit to the rear
of the existing cat and still bolt up to the Y-pipe.  I just got my
emissions test (literally, like 4 days ago), so I don't need to have the cat
for a while, but I want to keep it connected anyway (they say cops can smell
cars w/o a cat that need one...).  Anyway, is there enough room where I can
cut the Hooker-supplied "test pipe" so it's only 1" long or so and bolt it
to the Y-pipe and slip it over the cat-pipe?

3)  There's no real hurry in answering the second question.  I just dropped,
ohh, 700 bucks for the tranny rebuild, so I won't be getting any exhaust
system THIS summer!  Hopefully this winter, though...  Anyway, as you all
know, the 200 died and I got it rebuilt (in only 1 day, as promised!), and
the tranny ran pretty rough the first evening.  It didn't shift into 3rd
gear at all unless I manually shifted the shift lever.  The 2nd day, it
wasn't playing any of those games, but some gears engage rather rough.  When
I move the lever to R, it immediately bangs down into Reverse.  And, while
in D, when I brake to a stop, it's pretty rough when it down-shifts into 1st
(at around 5 or 10 miles per hour).  Everything else, however, is crisp and
sharp, but not jarring.  The car really runs strong now and I don't regret
dropping all that money.  I'm assuming these symptoms are to be expected of
a recently rebuilt tranny?  The place that did the rebuild was real
professional about it (local rednecks, BUT, they really do care about your
car).  They want to see it back in a week to make sure nothing's leaking,
etc.  If it's still acting rough in a week, I'll mention it to them, but
please tell me that this is nothing to worry about!  I think I've debugged
about every major system in this car now and I'm ready to quit spending
money and start enjoying the car!

Thanks gang.  As always, I know y'all will be able to shed some light on my
little humble questions...  ;-)

Happy Canada Day and have a safe 4th.

Jason Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 19:23:32 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: NW 4-4-2 Picnic

Attention Pacific Northwest Cutlass and 4-4-2 owners.

9th Annual Cutlass/4-4-2 picnic.  Sunday July 12th. Centralia, WA
Sponsored by the South Sound 4-4-2 Club and the 4-4-2 Club of Oregon.
All Cutlass', 4-4-2's, Hurst/Olds' and Vista Cruisers are welcome
(regardless of condition).  If it runs, Bring it!
Trophies, etc.

Call or e-mail me for more info.  See you there!
- --
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
Portland, Oregon
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 22:40:26 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Brake Humor

>.... Oldsmobile never got a "brake" from GM.  heh heh  Oh,
>please, "stop" the brake humor! heh heh  Laughing so hard I may slip a
>"disc" or blow a seal and "bleed" to death! heh heh
>
>Mike Rothe
>

Puhleeeeze! Give us a "brake", or someone may "drum" you outa here.

(hey, it's "asbestos" i could come up with)

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 22:28:27 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: (long) Karl's Starter Swap, Bracket question, and the real problem.

So.

Now I know how much of a drag starting motor work is.

All I have left to look forward to is the pain of header installation.

I ordered the (remanufactured) starter from "Smothers parts international"
(www.smothers.com [??]) in CA by way of an Emailed price quote and a telephone
call.

$53.17 included core deposit of $18.

Ordered on a Tuesday morning here, 2 hours earlier there.
They had it in stock and could ship same day.
I authorized them to ship it Second Day air (Airborne Exp.) so's I would be
able to do the swap on weekend.

Did not come until 6:15 pm on Friday.  (Second Day????)

Saturday.
Got car up...hmmm. Gotta drop flywheel/T/C cover.
No prob.....hey!
None of my sockets fit this machine screw!
10 mm!  DOH!!!!
(Incidentally is this an indication that the Variable Vane T/C is gone?)
[Yah. Karl is STILL not sure if genuine or not.]

Wrenching....starter off.
Probably would have been a good idea to disconnect the wires first....DOH!!!!
They are on real good... in fact with starter loose, Karl cannot get proper
leverage.....
...rrrrrr....DOH!!!!
(Bolt holding cable from (+) batt terminal has frozen, It turns, so does whole
bolt...)
Bolt breaks inside solenoid. Solenoid's plastic cracks big time.
Cable still on.
Karl gets nut off of copper bolt (separate from solenoid now!) with vice-grips
and channel lock pliers.
Two other wires relatively easy but no cinch either.

Reman starter. Wires on, cable on.
(After recent posts Karl wrote down where colored wires go.)
Starter up....and on????
Wait?

Uhhh?
Where does the starter bracket go?
Can I use the old bracket?
There is no threaded hole on the reman starter!
None that is obvious anyways!
Can I use the starter with just the two bolts for a prolonged period?

The starter came with two shims, but they were not needed.
Starter does not make noise that inicates addition or removal.
Just used the same rubber block that was in the original.

So it is back together. And starts.
Good. Finish up (Damn Flywheel cover!)
Put everything away, drive car some.

Sunday morning.
No start. Just idiot lights.
DOH!!!
Go to parts store, get replacement batt-starter cable (easiest thing to think
of to replace).
Make swap.
(Isn't it odd how a mere eight letters can sum up about two hours of toil,
during which you can become covered with grease and dirt from your fingertips
to where your clothing [now ruined] starts.)

Stil no start.
DOH!!!

Then Karl happens to notice something.
The two actual wires that go to starter begin in a connector near horn relay
and (+) junction on inner fender.
Except that the connector parts are 1-2 millimeters apart?
What???
DOH!!!!DOH!!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!
!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!!DOH!!!!

So Karl gets buff-pad, opens connector, reaches corner of pad in and does what
he can to clean contacts.
(not much really, too tight in there)
Karl Close connectors TIGHTLY!!!! and vrooom!
Great!
So were the connectors the problem all along?
There was some surface corrosion.
This weekend Karl take tiny brush and "Flitz" metal polish and do a proper
job.
All in all the reman starter works.
Karl seems to think it has less torque (less oomph) than original starter.

Anyone got a correct solenoid for a 1965 Delco Starting motor?

Thanks in advance.

Karl Aune and Soylent Ocean Mist
1965 Dynamic 88 Celebrity Sedan

Members; OCA, IVOC

KarlAune@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 22:44:21 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Vinyl Seats

Subject: Vinyl Seats


>Does anyone know if there a some type of repair kit for vinyl seats.  My
>seats are in pretty decent shape except for a few minor tears.  I would
>have to get them recovered just for that.


I've used the repair kits sold in Pep Boys and other auto parts stores.
Works good for non-stressed areas. But if the tear is under your butt,
nothing short of a professional repair job will last very long. I've had
patch repairs done reasonably cheap too (they don't always have to redo the
whole seat).

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 20:45:14 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Jason's 1st Question

> 1)  I have a squeak/squawk in the front fender (passenger side) and it's
> because the metal bumper and the metal fender are rubbing together when I
> hit bumps, etc.  My question is: can I put some clear (white lithium?)
> grease in-between the two metal parts, so they'll rub together smoothly
> (keep it clean, gents...!)?

Is this for your 84???  I'm having troubles conceiving the problem there.  The
only parts contacting the front bumper are fiberglass (except maybe the bottom
chrome mouldings.)  The fender extension (that little 3" square flex part) has 
a
contact with the bumper, and can be adjusted by bending the fender lip it
attaches to.  These get knocked around occasionally, from ditches, etc.  I'd
check the bumper shock mounts for secure mounting and straightness.  Measure
(roughly) the distance between each park light and the urethane bumper above.
Biggest thing I usally notice on "ditched" cars is a discrepancy (one side's
higher than the other)  Something besides normal wear and tear is causing the
body to flex, causing your squeaking, I suspect.  Check the body mounts at the
core support (down by the battery on one side, next to carbon canister (likely)
on the other side.  (one on either side of the radiator.)  I've seen them fall
apart.  Maybe.  Check them closely, upper and lower bushings.  Maybe get a
prybar in there if possible.  Check your gaps between the doors and all
surrounding areas (1/4 panel, lower body, and front fender.  They should all be
close to 1/4 inch.  If anything looks out of whack there, it could be from a
prior ditch trip (happens often on ~other~ people's cars...)  I'm assuming you
bought it used, right?  Always a possibility.

I'm still hung up on the metal to ~metal~ part.  Exactly what metal is
contacting?  I'm usually quick to notice the ditch cars, and I haven't seen
evidence in yours (it pops up on my screen on every start up (usually more 
often
now, since I installed Internet Crasher 4.0)  I think I'd have seen anything
~drastic~.  But look anyway.

When you get those checked out, let me know.  We'll go from there.  Good luck!

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 22:51:22 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile nationals

In a message dated 98-07-01 10:54:01 EDT, you write:

<< In fact I may wear my rocket
 @ symbol, just to see if anyone recognizes it.  Maybe we ought to 'dust'
 those off and wear them in Springfield, what do ya think? >>

I got mine!
(OK, I found it too late after the Oldsmobile Homecoming!)

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 22:59:34 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: running hot?

In a message dated 98-07-01 02:23:02 EDT, you write:

<<  However, I have had brand new ones that were fubared. >>

Karl not knew this.
Gets filed away with both of Greg Beaulieau's new (and bad) coils!

Geez, Quality Control nowadays!

<<<  (Trouble starts with rad + some Sparky-isms)  >>>

Karl Agrees.

While doin the timing chain (had rad out), I sqirted some "simple green" at
the vanes, let it set awhile, and hit it with the hose-nozzle.
First from one side, then the other, until no more suds.
Then corrected the worst of the bent vanes.
(not right term, but you understand)

Soylent ran hot much of last year.
Not since Timing chain swap.
AND radiator fan shroud is still off for cleaning!

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 23:00:41 EDT
From: <Onebil2mny@aol.com>
Subject: Hello, please don't beat me!

I'd just like to say hello to everyone and introduce my self to the list.  My
name is Bill and I live in the Wheaton Maryland area.  I am in the process of
modifying a 72 Cutlass (442?) convertible. I purchased this car as a total
basket case, exibiting all the signs of a junker including a missing
engine/tranny, and serious rust!   I have done some serious work modifying the
suspension with 12 inch front disc brakes, H/O racing springs and anti-sway
bars, and a Ford 9inch with 11 (?) inch discs.  I had an LS6 Chevy crate motor
(please don't shoot me!) wich I have port injected coupled to a richmond
5speed.  I have also replaced all exterior sheet metal, most with NOS.  I have
been working on this crazy thing for over 5 years, and even plan to finish
it.... one day.... before I die.... I hope.

 I do have one question though......  I purchased a 4 door deck lid as I was
told they are sposed to fit the conv.  And, it does...... untill you look up
at the lower edge, just above the back bumper.  There is a serious gap between
the lid and the weather stripping!  the rear body panel was not damaged or
replaced, and matches other convertibles I have looked at.  The bottom of the
lid appears not to follow the same contour, and is flatter on the bottom then
other conv. lids I have seen.  Has anybody seen this before??  Have I been
told wrong about the 4 door lids?? Help!!!!!

Thanks a lot for any help you can give, and thanks for not shooting me for the
Chevy motor !

Keep it to the left of red!
Bill

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 23:26:41 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <jlabay@ee.net>
Subject: Re: Hello, please don't beat me!

Hey, welcome to the list. No complaints here seeing a Chevy motor in an Olds, I
love it. In fact I will probably go that route myself in my 72 Cutlass Supreme
if I can't get a serious BB Olds built for a reasonable price.

Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500.....Vortec 350, A4, 4.10
80 Olds 442 W-30........350, A3, 2.73
75 Hurst/Olds W-25.....350, A3, 2.56
72 Cutlass Supreme.....drag car project


- -----Original Message-----
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com <Onebil2mny@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, July 01, 1998 11:10 PM
Subject: Hello, please don't beat me!


>I'd just like to say hello to everyone and introduce my self to the list.  My
>name is Bill and I live in the Wheaton Maryland area.  I am in the process of
>modifying a 72 Cutlass (442?) convertible. I purchased this car as a total
>basket case, exibiting all the signs of a junker including a missing
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 23:19:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: MAILER-DAEMON@merge1.mergetel.com (Mail Delivery Subsystem)
Subject: Returned mail: User unknown

The original message was received at Wed Jul  1 23:19:45 EDT 1998
from  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

- ----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors -----
lee@merge1

- ----- Transcript of session follows -----
... while talking to merge1.:
>>> RCPT To:<lee@merge1>
<<< 550 Bad recipient
550 lee@merge1... User unknown
Reporting-MTA: dns; merge1

Arrival-Date: Wed Jul  1 23:19:45 EDT 1998
Final-Recipient: RFC822; lee@merge1
Action: failed
Status: 5.1.1
Diagnostic-Code: SMTP; 550 Bad recipient
Last-Attempt-Date: Wed Jul  1 23:19:45 EDT 1998
>From oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca  Wed Jul  1 23:19:42 1998
Return-Path: <oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca>
Received: from halifax.chebucto.ns.ca (halifax.chebucto.ns.ca [129.173.4.205])
	by merge1.mergetel.com (8.8.5/8.8.5) with ESMTP id XAA07297
	for <lee@mergetel.com>; Wed, 1 Jul 1998 23:19:41 -0400 (EDT)
Received: by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca id <43673-282>; Thu, 2 Jul 1998 00:24:39
-0300 Received: from ee.net ([206.31.38.3]:4576 "EHLO ee.net" ident: 
"TIMEDOUT")
by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca with ESMTP id <43567-6618>; Thu, 2 Jul 1998 00:24:15
-0300 Received: from default (jlabay@cak49.cak.dialup.thenap.net
[209.190.88.49]) 	by ee.net (8.8.5/8.8.5) with SMTP id XAA14101 	
for
<oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; Wed, 1 Jul 1998 23:29:01 -0400 (EDT) Message-ID:
<00ae01bda569$3d87c8e0$3158bed1@default> From: "Jason P. Labay" 
<jlabay@ee.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca> Subject: Re: Hello, please don't beat me! Date:
	Wed, 1 Jul 1998 23:26:41 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: 
text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-2" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3
X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.2106.4
X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.2106.4 X-Orcpt:
rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h chebucto.ns.ca
oldsmobile-mml" Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca X-SpamBouncer: 1.00h (5/20/98) X-SBRule:
Small Fry X-SBRule: Pass-No Pattern Matching

Hey, welcome to the list. No complaints here seeing a Chevy motor in an Olds, I
love it. In fact I will probably go that route myself in my 72 Cutlass Supreme
if I can't get a serious BB Olds built for a reasonable price.

Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500.....Vortec 350, A4, 4.10
80 Olds 442 W-30........350, A3, 2.73
75 Hurst/Olds W-25.....350, A3, 2.56
72 Cutlass Supreme.....drag car project


- -----Original Message-----
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com <Onebil2mny@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, July 01, 1998 11:10 PM
Subject: Hello, please don't beat me!


>I'd just like to say hello to everyone and introduce my self to the list.  My
>name is Bill and I live in the Wheaton Maryland area.  I am in the process of
>modifying a 72 Cutlass (442?) convertible. I purchased this car as a total
>basket case, exibiting all the signs of a junker including a missing
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 23:45:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.edu>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile nationals

>
> << In fact I may wear my rocket
>  @ symbol, just to see if anyone recognizes it.  Maybe we ought to 'dust'
>  those off and wear them in Springfield, what do ya think? >>

Although it's kinda close to Nats, we still don't know exactly which of
our listies are going to Springfield.  I can attempt to keep a list of
those going so we can possibly arrange another cool get-together like we
did last year.  So.....

If you are attending Nats this year, email me at peg@grove.ufl.edu with
the dates you'll be there, hotel you're staying at, and what car(s) you're
bringing.  I'll do my best to post updated lists once every coupla days
until time to leave for the show.  While we're at it, any good ideas on
when/where to meet for our list rendezvous??

8)
peg

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 23:44:18 EDT
From: <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: running hot?

In a message dated 98-07-01 18:02:43 EDT, you write:

<< No, that's not too warm.  Olds specifies a 195 degree thermostat for this
 car, so the t'stat isn't opened fully until around 222 degrees or so.  My 84
 Cutlass with the 307 runs at around 210-215 around town, A/C off.  If I'm in
 stop-and-go traffic with the A/C on in 100 degree heat, it's around 220 or
 maybe 225 sometimes, but it does hold right there.
  >>

ok, heres what im running.  350 olds, bored .030 over, edelbrock performer
cam& intake, #7 heads, new water pump, new 3 core radiator, new 180 degree
thermostat.  i  guess it must just be a sensitive gage....  seems hard to
believe it would run that warm with all that new stuff....  i would like to
see it running 205- 210, myself
thanks for all the info, guys

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 00:11:21 -0400
From: Scott Stefanich <sstefani@up.net>
Subject: Thanks/68 4-4-2

Thank you all for your help on 400 motors and 68 deck lids.  I
appreciate your time and info, as my father and I are new to
Oldsmobiles.

We are beginning restoration on a 68 Cutlass Convertible 4-4-2, our
first Olds.  We love it, and hope to concentrate on Olds in the future.

Any advice is welcome, especially on the mechanical end of restoration.

Thanks again,
Scott Stefanich

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 21:11:12 -0700
From: Diane Blanford <dblanford@nidlink.com>
Subject: Olds and non Olds

OLDS Related

Cars for sale in Eastern Washington

1965 442	$6,500
	very nice original condition, 81,000 mile car, nice powerful 	
road
car.  509-684-3579

1966 Olds Conv.	$3,900
	V8 auto, power top, runs great, 82,000 miles.  509-456-6905

1968 Toronado	$2,995
	455,auto,PS,PB,PW, straight body. 95% restored  1-800-406-0767

1969 Cutlass Convertible	asking $5,200
	all stock 350/350	509-487-9245

			NON Olds

	The discussion on electric fuel pumps, reminded me of an incident about
20 years ago.  I was driving down a county road in western Montana and
noticed a somewhere around a early sixty version Rambler stuck in the
mud in a driveway.  I stopped and offered some assistance to the older
gentleman.  I backed up to his car with my pick-up and got ready to hook
the chain to the rear of his Rambler.  He was very concerned that we
hooked it to a place that would not damage his car.  As I crawled
underneath his car I noticed his gas tank was balloned out.  I asked the
man (Elmer Foote) what had happened to it.  He said he had bottomed out
on a road and it pushed his gas tank in so he stuck a spark plug in the
tank and popped it back out.
	After pulling Elmer out, I walked up to his car, he was sitting in the
front seat smoking a cigarette.  I notice a 5 gallon stainless steel
milk container sitting on the floor between the front and back seat with
a tube that went up over the top of the front seat that disappeared
under his dash.  I asked Elmer what it was for.  He said that he had it
hooked up to an electric fuel pump and when he was going up a hill if
the engine started to conk out, he would flip a switch and away he would
go!

		Also non Olds
A special hi to Charley in Sidney. My mom was borned and raised there
and I lived there until the early sixties.  I learned to water ski
behind a car in the canal by the airport.  Couldn't go to long before
the car would overheat.

Have a good one,

Bob

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 23:42:57 -0500
From: senator@itis.com (Robert F. Newbegin Jr.)
Subject: Re: running hot?

I have a '78 CS with a 350 (from '77, I believe).  I have the sunpro
3-gauge set (water temp, oil press., and ammeter).  I have a 180 deg.
thermostat, and it usually stays about 200-210.  220 is not *too* high, but
it might be something to think about.  Check your fan belts, crap in the
grill, a bad thermostat, low fluid, etc.

Most jugs of anti-freeze have a chart on them which tells the boiling point
of various coolant/water mixes.  I'd recommend buying a $2 coolant tester
to check your mix.  Remember, it should be green, not rusty-brown (the
coolant, that is.)

Oh, yeah - my engine has a high-pressure oil pump, so it goes between 20psi
and 50psi, but I can't remember for sure now.  It's kinda late...

Anything else?  Just glad to find a topic that I *might* be able to help on.

Bob
'78 CS

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 21:50:45 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Three Questions

Well, here's my shot at an answer:

1) Can't help you much.  I have a similar squawk in my '84 H/O, but I know it's
caused by the airdam which you don't have.

2)  Oh yeah, I love my exhaust!  Spent the last few days driving around with 
the
windows down and the radio *off* :-)  If you want to keep the cat in, just have
a flange welded to the back of the cat and bolt the y-pipe straight to that.
That's how it's intended to be installed, you don't need the test pipe at all 
if
you're keeping the cat.  There's pics of the Y-pipe area on my page at
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz/hooker_exhaust.html.  There will be a .WAV file on
the page soon (Tom, are you listening?).  I'd certainly hope that cops have
better things to do than go around sniffing people's exhaust, at least here I
certainly hope they do (found a nice stolen mountain bike that got dumped in 
our
back alley two weeks ago, they *still* haven't been here to pick it up).  They
probably could smell an overly rich exhaust, but if your computerized feedback
mixture control is working half decently you won't be anywhere near that.  If
they have you pulled over for something else and they just want to be an ass
about it (or if you're being an ass to them and they're looking for something 
to
cite you for), then I can see a cop maybe caring that you don't have a cat.
Actually, I'd bet 50% of the cops around here don't know their way around under
a car hood to any great extent.

3) That doesn't sound right to me.  The TH-350 I had put in to replace the
TH-200 in my '78 last January ran perfectly right out the door.  I think $700
sounds pretty expensive.  It only cost me a little over $500 for the rebuilt
TH-350, and that included $200 labor for installation (it was January and my
garage isn't heated), a core charge, and minor stuff like a new dipstick, tube,
and some vacuum line.  It would have cost about $700 had I gone with the 
TH-200,
the reason the tranny guy said was primarily because the TH-200 case is all one
piece, it's hard to take apart to rebuild the guts, and partially because 
TH-350
rebuild kits are so common (like SBC rebuild kits) that they're much cheaper
than any other tranny.

Now get out and drive that car!

------------------------------

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 01:14:09 EDT
From: <WMACHINES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile nationals

In a message dated 98-07-01 23:47:21 EDT, you write:

<<  you are attending Nats this year, email me at peg@grove.ufl.edu with
 the dates you'll be there, hotel you're staying at, and what car(s) you're
 bringing.  >>
I will be there Friday afternoon and Saturday all day.  I am trying to find a
way to bring my 72 Saddle Bronze with Saddle tan stripes 442 W-30 Race Rocket.
Hotel, just winging it.  plenty of hotels around the Springfield area. Mark
Cornea (Dr. Decal) will be there also with his matador red 70 442 W-30 Later

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 22:08:31 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Three Questions

allright, make that http://www.ior.com/~tlentz/hooker_exhaust.htm

There, that should work.


> you're keeping the cat.  There's pics of the Y-pipe area on my page at
> http://www.ior.com/~tlentz/hooker_exhaust.html.  There will be a .WAV file 
on

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 00:16:57 -0500
From: "Patrick Robinson" <jcguru@teclink.net>
Subject: unsubscribe

please unsubscribe me from the list
the info is great but too much for my mail server

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 02:36:34 EDT
From: <RCKTPWR@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Hello, please don't beat me!

In a message dated 7/1/98 11:06:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Onebil2mny@aol.com writes:

<<
 Thanks a lot for any help you can give, and thanks for not shooting me for
the
 Chevy motor ! >>
GET RID OF THE CHEVY MOTOR !!!!!!
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 00:28:39 -0600
From: "Kevin Meredith" <bkmeredith@telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: Our neighbors holiday..!!

National pride content: Now that it's just past midnight, it was Canada's
131st birthday.

Olds content: Anyone got an OAI hood for 71-71 Cutlass?

Kevin Meredith

- ----------
> From: Rick <truric@imag.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Our neighbors holiday..!!
> Date: Wednesday, July 01, 1998 4:48 PM
>
>
> At 05:53 PM 7/1/98 +0000, you wrote:
> >I just noticed it on my calendar, so I'm gonna be the first to
> >say...."Happy Canada Day" to all the listers from North of our
> >border..!!
> >
> >Now somebody from Canada fill me in on the signigicance of "Canda
> >Day"!!!
> >
> >
> >well thank you ..it's kinda wierd haveing a holiday on a wenday but hey
im
> not at work so  YEH!!!!!
> as far as what is Canada day this is the birthday of Canada im sorry to
say
> that im not a big flag waver but you got to love our medical system
> place olds contents here  (there no one can get mad now) olds olds
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 01:45:35 -0500
From: Dave Rogers <roger035@gold.tc.umn.edu>
Subject: exhaust manifolds

Could anyone suggest a pair of olds exhaust manifolds for my stock 307.
I want a less restrictive exhaust.

Thanks

Dave Rogers

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 02:57:08 -0400
From: Pat McDermott <koloth@iglou.com>
Subject: Convertible Frame Q.

Hello all,
 I got my car back from the convertible top guys today.
Well I got problems.
I had  problems before, that's why I had it replaced.
The glass back window had ripped away across the bottom, and there were
tears in the back top corners where the little silver triangle things
go.
When I used to put the top down it lined up under an inch right of the
lock down holes and was level.
So.
When I picked it up he told me the top had been bent (before, not by
him, of course). Maybe in an accident. Its never been wrecked. It has
had the top put down while moving forward a few times. (Not by me,
previous owner's wife.) And that the cable on the drivers side was
broken.
Anyway, now the right side is 4 inches above the left and when I pull it
down it lines up 2+ inches right. Believe it or not, that's not the part
that's bugging me.
Once I put the top down, when I close the drivers door the glass stays
out 1/4 inch towards the back (where the windows meet). I can push up on
the frame of the top at the hinge above my shoulder and it stays out. To
get it right I have to; get in close the door, unlatch on the drivers
side, push up (moves in) relatch, then I have to slide out the passenger
side because if I open it I'm back where I started from.
Its not a good situation. Any ideas for a solution?

Pat McD.
69 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 02:57:03 -0400
From: Pat McDermott <koloth@iglou.com>
Subject: Temp. (cooling)

Thanks again for all the suggestions to solve my problems.
I pulled the Radiator today to find that the holes that I can see from
the bottom
are 90% closed. I'll be taking it to the local rad. guys tomorrow. When
I look in
there I see 3 sets of holes. That means it's a 3 row/core right? The guy
at the
shop said he could re-core(?) it into a 3 if I had a 2 or into a 4 if I
had a 3
($170.00).  Boiling, Cleaning and testing is only $60.00 Would 1 more
row help that
much? Will a re-cored 4 row even fit?

Thanks
Pat McD.
69 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 00:03:45 PDT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: AC conversion

I'll double check...

I recall seeing it at Autozone or Pep Boys, believe it or not.

Later,

Chris Rivier
'66 Delta 88..."The Beast"
'88 Festiva..."Zippy"  163K+@ 40 mpg, neeed I say more.


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 02:17:24 -0500
From: Albert Meyer <Olds@AustinTX.net>
Subject: Re: Convertible Frame Q.

It appears that the top guy didn't do such a good job. If your frame is
that messed up, he should have either taken it apart and fixed it, or
referred you to someone who could. Putting canvas on a bad frame is
incredibly stupid. Most states have some sort of agency that oversees auto
mechanics. In CA it is called the Bureau of Automotive Repair and they are
a mechanic's nightmare. I would take the car back to the guy and ask him to
fix it (without charging you any more). If he doesn't I would complain to
your local equivalent of the BAR.

At 02:57 AM 7/2/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Hello all,
> I got my car back from the convertible top guys today.
>Well I got problems.

'68 98 Convertible 455 - Still looking for a parts car
Austin, Texas mailto:Olds@AustinTX.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 00:40:17 PDT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: OLDS NEON (not that other little car)

Only!!!!!!!!!!!

 $375.00 each plus S&H

OUCH!!

CR

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 05:34:31 EDT
From: <GraphixRUs@aol.com>
Subject: all members

One of our local members can not make it to Springfield.
He has one room reserved ar Comfort Inn Suites. $60.00 + tax per night.
Wed.,Thur.,Fri.,Sat. ----4 - nights  reserved. He can wait until late June
before canceling.
If any one is interested please call here at Rowland Graphics or call Alton
Bowling at his home. 919-309-9162.
Later
Roger Utter

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 08:55:28 -0500
From: "Cote, Jeffrey"
<IMCEAEX-_O=MCCO_OU=MORGAN_CN=RECIPIENTS_CN=M947AIM@morganco.com> Subject:
Cruise Control Question

First, hello out there. My name is Jeff from Massachusetts
and I own a 72 Supreme H/T, 70 Supreme Conv and 69 S Conv.
Got a question: I found a GM Accessory Cruise Control Kit,
complete and in the box. Part # on box is 982005. Can anyone
tell me what years and models this cruise control unit is
compatible with?? How do I know if it is proper for one of my
Cutlasses?  Thanks for the help.
- --Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 09:00:59 -0400
From: "Wagner, John" <WagnerJo@pios.com>
Subject: RE: running hot?

Try mixing in some Redline Wetter solution ..you can get it from a
performance shop like Jeg's
or Summit Racing. It should take out about 10-15 degrees even when mixed
with anti-freeze.

John
'72 Cutlass S 455
'98 Bravada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 08:07:47 -0500
From: "babbott@pdnt.com" <babbott@pdnt.com>
Subject: It's official, 88's are dead.

I work for a Oldsmobile dealer and I got a confidential notice  yesterday,
that after 50 years, the Olds 88  will no longer be produced
Eric Phillips

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 09:12:03 -0400
From: "Wagner, John" <WagnerJo@pios.com>
Subject: RE: Advance Ignition Timing problems

I;m not sure about your measuring 1 7/8 to get at 30 degrees on the
balancer..you might want to get a timing tape that sticks permanently
around your balancer.

Many advance units had bushing in them to limit the total advance. The
only way to really get at them is to pull the distributor and remove the
pin that holds the gear on, then pull out  the whole mechanism. The
bushing should be underneath the plate that the advance springs mount
to.

You didn't say if your distr is a points or HEI, but they are basically
the same..but I just did this to my '72 455 and can get 40 degrees with
no problem if I want it. I have all my advance in by 3000...my motor is
more of a race motor...and I have a 3800 stall converter in it. You
probably don't want that much so soon.

John
'72 455 Cutlass S
98 Bravada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 08:16:44 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Date:	Thu, 2 Jul 1998 08:16:44 -0500

Gone for the holidays

See ya next week


Have a great 4th


===========================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
Cutlass403@ameritech.net
1971 Cutlass S 455
Westside! Chitown IL
===========================

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 08:45:35 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@leadbelt.com
Subject: Head bolt confusion

In trying to put back together what I have torn apart (the 350 engine from
my 68 Cutlass S conv), I'm trying to make sense of the head bolt situation.

On the passenger side, I have 8 bolts & 2 studs,

On the drv side, I have 9 bolts & one stud>

Is there rhyme or reason to this, or is it just jerry rigging of a previous
owner/mechanic? In other words----does it matter which goes where ----except
of course the obvious short bolts.......

Broke a water pump bolt off in the block this morning. I guess I needed
another frustration. Some days.....

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 09:42:52 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: It's official, 88's are dead.

> after 50 years, the Olds 88  will no longer be produced
>

~ sniff ~ No finer familymobile was ever made than the 88. ~ sniff ~

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 09:26:56 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: K&N filter top & homemade ramair

I was browsing through a non-olds car magazine (don't ask) and noticed
in their buyers guide that K&N now has a new lid for 14" aircleaners
that is actually a huge pleated filter!  Just the top flows 1000cfm.
I'm thinking this would be perfect for making a performance home-made
ram air cleaner for my O.A.I. hood.

I tried this once by using an old stock bottom with the snorkel cut
off, then using sheetmetal, extending the sides up to meet the hood.
Then I used thick foam around the top.  On the inside I used two 12x2
K&N filters that fit inside (14" wouldn't fit).  It still looked like
it was too restrictive, so I took it off.  Now we have the possibility
of filtering through the top of the lid, so now I need to figure how
and what to use on the bottom to meet up with the hood.

Any ideas?

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 07:48:42 PDT
From: "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: It's official, 88's are dead.

did they make a 1998 88?


>
>I work for a Oldsmobile dealer and I got a confidential notice
yesterday,
>that after 50 years, the Olds 88  will no longer be produced
>Eric Phillips
>


  My  -------   -------
            /  |
           /   |
          /     ------
         /            |
        /             |
       /        ------    DELTA 88
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 09:51:27 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: cleaning seats

Hi all,
I have a rear seat for my 69 Cutlass that I will replace the current one
with, but I'd like to clean it up first.  Are there any cleaners out on
the market I can use for the vinyl?  Or can I just use Armor All (since
I happen to have some)?  Or a wet sponge and a bucket of hot soapy
water?  The seat does have a few spots of something on it, but most
importantly it's not ripped like the current seat in the car.  Thanks
for any suggestions.

Chris Smetana
(finally with electricity in) Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 10:59:07 -0500
From: "Cote, Jeffrey"
<IMCEAEX-_O=MCCO_OU=MORGAN_CN=RECIPIENTS_CN=M947AIM@morganco.com> Subject: RE:
cleaning seats

Hello, Castrol Superclean works the best in my opinion. On anything on the
car
(except glass of course), head to toe. The purple stuff smells good too (or
is that
just a mental positive association with working on the Cutlasses.....Hmmm.)
- --Jeff
69 S Conv
70 Supreme Conv
72 Supreme H/T

> ----------
> From: 	Smetana, Christopher[SMTP:csmetana@dowagro.com]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Thursday, July 02, 1998 9:51 AM
> To: 	'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject: 	cleaning seats
>
> Hi all,
> I have a rear seat for my 69 Cutlass that I will replace the current one
> with, but I'd like to clean it up first.  Are there any cleaners out on
> the market I can use for the vinyl?  Or can I just use Armor All (since
> I happen to have some)?  Or a wet sponge and a bucket of hot soapy
> water?  The seat does have a few spots of something on it, but most
> importantly it's not ripped like the current seat in the car.  Thanks
> for any suggestions.
>
> Chris Smetana
> (finally with electricity in) Terre Haute, IN
> work: csmetana@dowagro.com
>
> 1969 W-31
> 1969 4-4-2 parts car
> plus others
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 10:04:08 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: cleaning seats

I've got some of that too.  I'll give it a try.  Thanks Jeff.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others
>
>----------
>From: 	Cote, Jeffrey
>Sent: 	Thursday, July 02, 1998 10:59 AM
>To: 	'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
>Subject: 	RE: cleaning seats
>
>Hello, Castrol Superclean works the best in my opinion. On anything on the
>car
>(except glass of course), head to toe. The purple stuff smells good too (or
>is that
>just a mental positive association with working on the Cutlasses.....Hmmm.)
>--Jeff
>69 S Conv
>70 Supreme Conv
>72 Supreme H/T
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 11:10:38 -0500
From: "Cote, Jeffrey"
<IMCEAEX-_O=MCCO_OU=MORGAN_CN=RECIPIENTS_CN=M947AIM@morganco.com> Subject: RE:
cleaning seats

That with a fingernail brush and several throw-away rags
and itll be good as new.
- --Jeff
PS Dont recommend anything on the headliner or plastic
instrument lens yet though.

> ----------
> From: 	Smetana, Christopher[SMTP:csmetana@dowagro.com]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Thursday, July 02, 1998 10:04 AM
> To: 	'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject: 	RE: cleaning seats
>
> I've got some of that too.  I'll give it a try.  Thanks Jeff.
>
> Chris Smetana
> Terre Haute, IN
> work: csmetana@dowagro.com
>
> 1969 W-31
> 1969 4-4-2 parts car
> plus others
> >
> >----------
> >From: 	Cote, Jeffrey
> >Sent: 	Thursday, July 02, 1998 10:59 AM
> >To: 	'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> >Subject: 	RE: cleaning seats
> >
> >Hello, Castrol Superclean works the best in my opinion. On anything on
> the
> >car
> >(except glass of course), head to toe. The purple stuff smells good too
> (or
> >is that
> >just a mental positive association with working on the
> Cutlasses.....Hmmm.)
> >--Jeff
> >69 S Conv
> >70 Supreme Conv
> >72 Supreme H/T
> >
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1343
*********************************
