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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1311


oldsmobile-digest        Monday, June 15 1998        Volume 01 : Number 1311



bearing source
Thanks to All (was distributer)
Unsubscribe
UNBOUNCE: DOH! SP ID addendum #2
What Makes This Worthwhile...
Re: Exhaust woes
66 Big Car Fender Source?
Re: Thanks to All (was distributer)
Re: Exhaust woes
78-88 Cutlass Factory Gauge Instructions.. (FREE)
69 under the bumper scoops...
temp. gauge
Re: Exhaust woes
Who is going to Lansing?
'Nother stumbling block for the Rockit :(
Re: Bench Testing
Tire sizes
Re: temp. gauge
72 Cutlass drag car project saga
Returned mail: User unknown
Tiny bubbles...
Re: Anything for a '72 Cutlass
Re: temp. gauge
Brake swap info
hey guys.im looking for pics of a 64 cutlass or 442.
Re: Computer Controlled Distributor
Hookt Beig Blox workt fer me
Re: 750 dual feed/double pumper Vs 780 dual feed/vacuum secondary-Rob
e-wrecking yards
Re: Springfield Olds Nationals 1998
Re: 72 Cutlass drag car project saga
Re: e-wrecking yards
Re: e-wrecking yards
Re: 780 vacuum sec 4 sale& other acc.
Re: 455/400
Re: Holiday Coup Designation
Re: Kerry's xtra parts
Re: anybody know?
Re: anybody know?
Re: Kerry's xtra parts
Re: Thanks to All (was distributer)
Re: anybody know?
Re: Kerry's xtra parts
WANTED: 68 442 stripes info...
Re: '87 442 wheels 4sale
Re: 69 under the bumper scoops...
Date:	Mon, 15 Jun 1998 08:02:13 -0500
67 cutlass for sale
Oh, well, back to work!
pushrod ? & others
Re: Springfield Olds Nationals 1998
Re: Hookt Beig Blox workt fer me
Re: Who is going to Lansing?
69 H/O emblems
Re: 461 C-3 Cadillac questions  (LONG)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 18:27:45 EDT
From: <DHickel296@aol.com>
Subject: bearing source

Thanks to all that responded to my question about enhancing my 425. The place
I got my bearing is: Automotive Bearings International in Los Angeles. Their
phone number is 213-622-5060. thanks again.

Darren

PS to Charley Buehner- do you know any of the Delaney family in Sidney.
Probably a dumb question.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 18:52:37 EDT
From: <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: Thanks to All (was distributer)

Thanks to all who responded to my plea for h*lp!!  As you recall, I am the one
who dropped the oil pump shaft into the bottom of the oil pan, and yes the oil
pump was on the car.  The retaining clip must have come off and when I lifted
the distributor out the shaft started to come up and then fell down into the
pan.  Well, I got it all fixed, had to redo all the gaskets and put a new
retaining clip on the bottom of the shaft.  Hopefully this won't happen again!
Special thanks to Dr. Barry who told us how to fix it.  I have a few more
question though.  I put the distributor put back in and was told how to do
this so it would line up properly.  Someone told me to pull the #1 spark plug,
crank the engine until the top of the piston is at the plug seat, then point
the rotor at the number one spark plug wire.  Has anyone heard of this method,
or is there a better way to do this? Question 2: I know there should be a
gasket between the engine block and the base of the distributer. Is it a
gasket out of gasket material, or a rubber o-ring?

Thanks!
Jim McKeague
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html">
http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html</A>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 15:59:30 -0700
From: "Richie Whiting" <richie842@mailcity.com>
Subject: Unsubscribe

This is a great service, but a little too big for my mail service.  I would 
like
to unsubscribe.  Thanks.


Get your FREE, private e-mail
account at http://www.mailcity.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 19:55:51 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: DOH! SP ID addendum #2

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Subject: DOH! SP ID addendum #2
From:	"Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>

Dang, sometimes I really wish I had a memory... I had all worked out in my head
what to do with the 3 transes I gave the trans doctor. All was set. Then I call
him up and ask him to leave the Switch Pitch guts in the '65 case, just make it
a short shaft & rebuild it. I had forgotten that one pesky detail, which was
driven home to me last night upon installation of said trans in to the
convertible... AFTER struggling for hours to get it in there alone...

anyhow, please add this paragraph to the Switch Pitch Guide if you so desire to
keep such info at hand. The begining & ending lines show where to insert the
new paragraph.
- ---------------

....& rear housing, which can even be donated from a Chevy short-shaft
trans.
   BE AWARE: These early big-car versions of the TH400 often have no
provision for a speedometer drive, as the cars used the left front
wheel to drive the speedo. So, you might need to round up three transes
to make one short shaft switch pitch TH400: The '65-'67 SP for the
converter & workings, a later BOP TH400 for the correct bellhouse
pattern case with speedo drive accomodation, and a short shaft (even a
Chevy type will do) to supply the short output shaft & tail housing.
   Due to a one-year-only, hard to find filter configuration, the 1965
TH400's are slightly less desirable than later versions, though they....

- ----------------

Now,to get the original trans fixed up, rebuilt, & reinstalled....
- --
Chris Witt  *the* Rocket Scientist
1968 442 convertible, originally & to be again W30, et. al
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 19:58:24 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: What Makes This Worthwhile...

The job of running this list hasn't been particularly fun this last week
or so. Some dust-ups, some pics and inappropriate messages posted, and
some name-calling. It discourages me sometimes, and this week was one of
those times.

On Friday I got home from work thinking of some of these things and when
I looked in my mailbox there was a package from Mark Cornea. Inside was a
Detroit Street Rockets shirt that I had admired last summer in Lansing.
Mark had found a spare one and sent it to me. They have a great logo (see
the W-Machines web page) and it's a neat shirt. Made my day.

Thanks to Mark and the rest of the Rockets that I see here: Mark Prince,
Mike Hall, Rob Thomas and Brian Lorway. Hope I'm not leaving anyone out.
These guys are always running #1 as far as I'm concerned.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 19:08:38 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Exhaust woes

Whoa!  Torque Tech is an Olds list lurker now!  Keith, I have the 1997
catalog, as I'm sure others here do too, and I was wondering if you do sell
a 2.5" cat-back system for the G-Bodies.  In the catalog, it's in the Table
of Contents, but not mentioned anywhere in the G-Body section.

Is it available and what's the list price?  Also, wild shot in the dark
here: what is the mounting of the system like?  A few members here on the
list (myself included) are looking for stock-type exhaust hangers for the
exhaust system.  Where are the hanger locations for the cat-back systems for
the G-Body (3-inch or 2.5-inch)?

Thanks.

Jason Adcock
jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

- -----Original Message-----
From: Torque Tech <torque@surfsouth.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, June 14, 1998 8:59 AM
Subject: Re: Exhaust woes

>By the way, we sell performance exhaust systems (mandrel bent, aluminized,
>2.5" or 3") for your vehicle.
>
>Keith @ Torque Tech / Performance Exhaust Products
>torque@surfsouth.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 17:25:13 -0700
From: Christian Fair <cfair@fairisaac.com>
Subject: 66 Big Car Fender Source?

As many of you are aware, the Starfire is in the body shop getting
taken back to metal then back up to it's Autumn Bronze (rust
metallic to the rest of us...)

I got a new hood for it (a story for another time). This should have
clued me in to the fact that the fenders were no good, but it didn't.
Also I didn't clue in that the whole front clip looked maladjusted.

So I'm in the 66 Starfire fender market. I have a couple of local
sources, but am guessing some of you out there might have
seen a boneyard car with some _very nice_ ones.

I don't know how I'll make the decsion on what to buy  if y'all come
up with anything, but please email me know if you have any sources
who have 1966 88, 98 or Starfire Fenders in stock. Rustfree and
not mangled, please.

I visited the body shop on Friday and he gave me the bad news.
Lots of bondo goop on the fenders, it would be good to give this
car a clean restart...

Looking forward to your leads.

TIA


cf

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 21:21:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Thanks to All (was distributer)

At 06:52 PM 6/14/98 EDT, you wrote:
>question though.  I put the distributor put back in and was told how to do
>this so it would line up properly.  Someone told me to pull the #1 spark plug,
>crank the engine until the top of the piston is at the plug seat, then point
>the rotor at the number one spark plug wire.  Has anyone heard of this 
method,

It's fine; you pull the #1 sparkplug, though, not to find when the piston is
at TDC (for that, you just line up the 0' timing mark with the line on the
balancer), but rather to find out when you're at TDC on the COMPRESSION
stroke; with your finger on that hole, turning the motor over with a breaker
bar on the balancer bolt, you'll feel the pressure start to build on in the
cylinder. When you feel that happening, just turn the crank a little more
until that timing mark lines up with 0'. Then, you install your distributor
so the rotor is pointing roughly at the #1 cylinder on the engine (remember
that the rotor will twist about 30' due to the angled distributor gears),
put the cap on, put a mark on the distributor body where the #1 terminal is,
take the cap off again, line up the mark you made on the distributor body
with the tip of the rotor, and tighten it down. Then install the cap and
your wires. You may have to rotate the distributor a few degrees to get
started, but you'll be in the ballpark; just have the timing light hooked up
so you can get the timing set right away.

>or is there a better way to do this? Question 2: I know there should be a
>gasket between the engine block and the base of the distributer. Is it a
>gasket out of gasket material, or a rubber o-ring?

A rubber O-ring around the distributor body shaft, usually rock-hard. Even
so, I've never had a leak with that seal in that condition.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 20:28:38 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <coarl@cyberramp.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust woes

I've been following this thread, so I thought I'd add my .02 worth. I
ordered the Flowmaster 2.5" exhaust system from Summit. I should have just
flushed $200 down the drain. On my 75 Cutlass, there simply is not enough
room for exhaust pipe of this size. They WILL hit the springs or the upper
arms. The catalog says 67-77 A-bodied cars. I believe they will fit most
cars up to 72, but the 73-77 cars are just too tight. The box says 67-73
A-body. The pipes had stickers that said 67-72 Chevelle. Gack! By the time
the exhaust shops (2) played around with the mess, I finally came to realize
that it just wouldn't work. That's what the exhaust shop guys had said all
along. Yes these were custom exhaust shops. Finally after many hours and
much $$$$, I had another shop custom bend a set of 2.25" pipes that fit
beautifully. Oh, and yes, I do have a double hump crossmember from a 73
Cutlass. The froblem is from the mufflers back. I suggest that members with
this series car save your money and have a custom exhaust shop MAKE you a
set of pipes in 2.25". Just my .02.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 21:27:57 -0400
From: Tom Millard <oldspwr@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: 78-88 Cutlass Factory Gauge Instructions.. (FREE)

Every so often people talk about putting factory gauges in 78 to 88
Cutlass's.  I have done this several times and have written a complete set
of instructions.  They are on an 11"x17" piece of paper and are very easy
to follow.

If anybody wants these, they are free for the taking.  All I ask is that
you send me an SASE envelope and I will send them right out.  Please
include your email address so I can let you know I received your request
and I sent the instructions out.  You can also email or call me if you have
any questions about them.  I will be glad to help.

Here is the address:

Tom Millard
HC 1 80A
Gouldsboro, PA 18424


Tom Millard OLDSPWR@worldnet.att.net
79 Cutlass - Street/Strip/Show
86 442 - Summer Cruiser
79 Cutlass - Winter Bomb (soon to be for sale...)
84 Silverado 4WD (soon to be Olds powered...)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 21:28:03 -0400
From: Tom Millard <oldspwr@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: 69 under the bumper scoops...

Does anybody have an idea where I can get a set of under the bumper scoops
for a 69 W30???  Any idea on the prices???




Tom Millard OLDSPWR@worldnet.att.net
79 Cutlass - Street/Strip/Show
86 442 - Summer Cruiser
79 Cutlass - Winter Bomb (soon to be for sale...)
84 Silverado 4WD (soon to be Olds powered...)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 21:44:15 EDT
From: <KASOLDS@aol.com>
Subject: temp. gauge

I have a temp. gauge in my 70 442, but the temp sensor in the intake is for an
idiot light.  If I install the correct sensor do I need to change the wiring.

Keith

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 21:44:43 -0400
From: "Michael A. Evans" <evans1@net-link.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust woes

Ed,

I don't know about the Flowmaster setup, but I just  examined a '77 442
that had a custom 3" true dual setup installed, with both tailpipes up and
over the axle in stock positions, using the same '73 442 double hump
crossmember that I have.  He also, however, had just installed new HD
springs in all four corners in consideration of swapping in the '68 455
BB......maybe your back springs are a bit on the soft side?  Dunno, but I
do know that if a 3" has been done, a 2 1/2" can be done, somehow. ;-)

At 08:28 PM 6/14/98 -0500, you wrote:
>I've been following this thread, so I thought I'd add my .02 worth. I
>ordered the Flowmaster 2.5" exhaust system from Summit. I should have just
>flushed $200 down the drain. On my 75 Cutlass, there simply is not enough
>room for exhaust pipe of this size. They WILL hit the springs or the upper
>arms. The catalog says 67-77 A-bodied cars. I believe they will fit most
>cars up to 72, but the 73-77 cars are just too tight. The box says 67-73
>A-body. The pipes had stickers that said 67-72 Chevelle. Gack! By the time
>the exhaust shops (2) played around with the mess, I finally came to realize
>that it just wouldn't work. That's what the exhaust shop guys had said all
>along. Yes these were custom exhaust shops. Finally after many hours and
>much $$$$, I had another shop custom bend a set of 2.25" pipes that fit
>beautifully. Oh, and yes, I do have a double hump crossmember from a 73
>Cutlass. The froblem is from the mufflers back. I suggest that members with
>this series car save your money and have a custom exhaust shop MAKE you a
>set of pipes in 2.25". Just my .02.
>
>
Mike Evans
Richland, MI
'77 442 parts car at http://www.infiniteweb.com/olds

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 21:53:21 EDT
From: <JohnMonnin@aol.com>
Subject: Who is going to Lansing?

Who is going to Oldsmobile Lansing Homecoming next week on the 20th?

I plan on being there on Saturday (20th) and I was wondering if any other List
members were interested in meeting for lunch or dinner?   I would need
suggestions on a place to go that is close to the show.

P.S.  Does anyone have more details on this show?  I heard about it on this
list but I am not exactly sure were in Lansing Michigan it is.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 20:09:50 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: 'Nother stumbling block for the Rockit :(

Set out today to begin the extraction process ('73 Toro, mangled front)  After 
2
or 3 hours, I got the front clip off.  Quite a trick, I must say.  Helped that
half of the bolts had been ripped out!  Anyway, finally get down to the engine,
spend another couple hours removing accessories (alternator in four pieces,
crammed into the rocker cover, p/s pulley bent into itself, and fan shoved into
the water pump pulley.  At least with the front clip off I had ~half~ a shred 
of
hope of getting all the bolts off!  Finally down to bare essentials.  Crank it,
cool, it turns.  Little dry, but not siezed, at least.  Air cleaner looks ~new~
but there's dirt on the carb.  Huh?  Guess I'd better not use ~that~ housing.
Pull the plugs, they're rusty on the inside.  Err...  Shine a light down there
and see loads of crud in each hole.  Grrrrr...  Hmm...  I guess next step is to
pull the heads (J's anyway, what the h*ll...) and scoop all that out (and
replace with ample amounts of assembly lube and ATF)  Then I can put C's back 
on
instead.  Guess I mightaswell put my 280 Magnum stick in while I've got it that
far down, eh?  Have to see what our local machine shop will charge for a valve
job, just might decide to run the ~big~ C's...

Also noted that doors open ~much~ easier without fenders in them...  Found an
atlas in the trunk dated 1981.  A bunch of new truck brochures (sp???) from 82
and 82 model year.  Last registration found ended in '83.  Hell, most of ~my~
cars were ~new~ when this thing met its demise!  The guy said it had many miles
on it, and it ~had~ to have rolled the odometer, but I still don't think so.
The CV boots are like new (~still~!) and most of the suspension stuff seems
relatively un-worn (?!)  Found oil change info in there, reading 50+K in early
82, and a couple more right in that same time frame.  For a nine year old car 
to
have 150+K on it, I'd expect to see much more wear.  Whereas 55K in 82 to 63K 
in
83 doesn't show a high yearly mileage average.  I'm still hoping for the best 
on
it.  I'm guessing that means the front end components are probably good, too.
Doesn't look like the frame even saw a scratch.  Tempted to clean out the plug
holes and take it around the block...  Just ~cuz~!  No brakes, though.  Master
cylinder cover got torn off in the wreck, and it's now siezed...  Wonder if the
parking brake works...

The Oldsmobile Magnet -- Charley Buehner@Sidney Montana
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com or mailto:charley@rocketship.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner  -- Oldsmagnet Homepage
OldsList Vital Info: http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 23:02:34 -0400
From: Dave Cullen <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Bench Testing

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 98-06-13 22:17:20 EDT, you write:
>
> << It's just a generic term for off-vehicle diagnostics. >>
>
> OK.
>
> But Bench-testing a starter is applying battery current, right?

Unfortunately, yes. Ideally us electrical types prefer to check things
with an ohmmeter before applying power, just in case the item is
shorted. Helps eliminate sparks, smoke & flames. A starter is ~THE~ one
item that draws so much current that ohmmeter checks are almost useless
(real low resistance).

> My Chassis Manual says to bench test the horn. No other specifics.
>
> So....apply 12 volts, right?
>
> <<< Usually ohmmeter tests and stuff like that precede power-on checks. >>>
>
> Yah. Took the tester out to the car and got mixed results. On to bench
> testing.
>
> > But again, bench testing is directly to battery if no other specs?

Yup. But for safety's sake try a heavy duty battery charger (12-20 amps)
instead of a battery. You can test horns, lights, power antennae and
relays this way with far less chance of hurting yourself, melting wires,
or starting fires.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 23:06:50 -0400
From: Dave Cullen <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Tire sizes

Is there a web page somewhere that has diameters of the standard tire
sizes?

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 20:02:55 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: temp. gauge

No. the wiring is the same for either sending unit.  However, some of the
aftermarket (including Delco) gauge sending units use a "T" type fitting on the
sending unit rather than the spade style originally used on your 70.  If this 
is
the case with the new sending unit you purchased for the gauge, all you need to
change is the plastic terminal cover and you're done.


KASOLDS@aol.com wrote:

> I have a temp. gauge in my 70 442, but the temp sensor in the intake is for 
an
> idiot light.  If I install the correct sensor do I need to change the wiring.
>
> Keith

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 23:09:11 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <jlabay@ee.net>
Subject: 72 Cutlass drag car project saga

Well I am getting the 72 Cutlass Supreme closer to racing every day.  Seems now
that the front end will need a total rebuild, it is really loose and all over
the road.  The original 350 has quite a bit of power, but has blow-by and is
leaking and eating oil at a good pace.  If I can't land a good Olds 455 soon, I
plan to drop in one of 2 Buick 455's I have setting at the salvageyard.  One is
a 71 motor, other is a 74.  Hey it isn't Olds, but at least I ain't dropping a
Chevy in there. I am trying to make this the ultra low budget racer.  As for a
transmission, I am going to run a 200-R4 from an 87 Monte SS for now. I have a
TH-400 that needs a rebuild that will probably go in when I grenade the 200-R4.
I am going to try to swap in a 10 bolt 7.5" posi rear from an 87 Monte SS also.
If anything breaks, oh well...I am out nothing.  With all those parts so far,
and a few I have had to buy I have $343 in the project so far.  I scrapped the
original bench seat and swapped in 2 nice buckets from an 87 Caviler.  The
console from my 75 H/O is going in also.  Probably end up getting a B&M
Megashifter instead of swapping in the dual gate from the 75.  Ah well back to
work.

Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500.....Vortec 350, A4, 4.10
80 Olds 442 W-30........350, A3, 2.73
75 Hurst/Olds W-25.....350, A3, 2.56
72 Cutlass Supreme.....drag car project

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 23:03:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: MAILER-DAEMON@merge1.mergetel.com (Mail Delivery Subsystem)
Subject: Returned mail: User unknown

The original message was received at Sun Jun 14 23:03:43 EDT 1998
from  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

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<jlabay@ee.net>
To: "Oldsmobile Mailing List" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca> Subject: 72 Cutlass
drag car project saga Date: 	Sun, 14 Jun 1998 23:09:11 -0400 
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Small Fry

Well I am getting the 72 Cutlass Supreme closer to racing every day.  Seems now
that the front end will need a total rebuild, it is really loose and all over
the road.  The original 350 has quite a bit of power, but has blow-by and is
leaking and eating oil at a good pace.  If I can't land a good Olds 455 soon, I
plan to drop in one of 2 Buick 455's I have setting at the salvageyard.  One is
a 71 motor, other is a 74.  Hey it isn't Olds, but at least I ain't dropping a
Chevy in there. I am trying to make this the ultra low budget racer.  As for a
transmission, I am going to run a 200-R4 from an 87 Monte SS for now. I have a
TH-400 that needs a rebuild that will probably go in when I grenade the 200-R4.
I am going to try to swap in a 10 bolt 7.5" posi rear from an 87 Monte SS also.
If anything breaks, oh well...I am out nothing.  With all those parts so far,
and a few I have had to buy I have $343 in the project so far.  I scrapped the
original bench seat and swapped in 2 nice buckets from an 87 Caviler.  The
console from my 75 H/O is going in also.  Probably end up getting a B&M
Megashifter instead of swapping in the dual gate from the 75.  Ah well back to
work.

Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500.....Vortec 350, A4, 4.10
80 Olds 442 W-30........350, A3, 2.73
75 Hurst/Olds W-25.....350, A3, 2.56
72 Cutlass Supreme.....drag car project

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 20:25:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joe Padavano <joe_padavano@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Tiny bubbles...

>1)  I am redoing all my underhood decals.  How do I get them on without any
>wrinkles?  Is there some magic chemical I can apply that allows me to smoothe
>the decals out?

Mr. Green, paging Mr. Green...

OK, since only long-time list members will get that, here's the trick:

Use water with a little bit of dish soap in it.  Wet the surface before
applying the decal.  The soapy water will let you slide the decal around to
get it positioned properly.  Gently squeegee the water out and let it dry.
Voila - a perfectly positioned decal with no air bubbles.

Now, to apply a rear window defroster grid...

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 22:25:23 -0500
From: ShawnE@austintx.net (Shawn Eldredge)
Subject: Re: Anything for a '72 Cutlass

Hello all,

I have been a long time "List Reader" and now have something to say.
Currently I own a 72 C/S named "The Red Ox" anyway here is my point.
I payed 700 for it not nowing anything about it other then it needed work.
With the help of a neighbor and the list here is what I have:
72 c/s
90,000 origanal? miles
newly rebuilt th-400
rocket 350
automatic on the floor
bucket seats
power brakes
and the last but not least Ac that works!!!!!!!! (The system is still
holding preasure)
and in Austin today it was 109 degrees
mild cancer not rusted through anywhere
Well thats about it, this is my first project and I have a fairly
understanding wife so.
I now have a question does anyone make a kit or whatever to change out the
rockers
from using the girdles to using regular rockers so I can use the roller
rockers
If I am not using proper termanology I apologize, this is my first resto
attempt.

Thanks so much for the help.
SHAWN



At 04:45 PM 6/9/98 -0700, you wrote:
>i recently purchased a 1972 cutlass and i am in need of sume parts....at
>this moment i am lookin' for grilles, interior bench-seats,hood,and a
>350 rocket engine....i guess i am more like a restoration mechanic other
>than a regular cutlass owner huh?well anyway i really need these parts
>at a reasonable price....i live in connecticut and i have no problem
>either pickin' up the parts or havin' the extra money to have the parts
>mailed....
>                                              I need Help,
>                                                          Keef
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 23:27:46 -0400
From: super442@mindspring.com
Subject: Re: temp. gauge

At 09:44 PM 6/14/98 EDT, you wrote:
>I have a temp. gauge in my 70 442, but the temp sensor in the intake is
for an
>idiot light.  If I install the correct sensor do I need to change the wiring.
>
>Keith,
           You should be able to change the senderand be fine,worst case
change the connector.Wiring should be the same if guages came in the car.If
not, refer to FAQ to get the info on the right positions for wiring or hit
me direct and I'll send them to you.
                                John
>
mailto:super442@mindspring.com
John McJunkin
1985 Cutlass------T-tops--307 H.O./3.73
1984 Cutlass------Moonroof--307
1982 Cutlass Cruiser wagon(G-body)--soon to be 403!!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 20:43:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joe Padavano <joe_padavano@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Brake swap info

Here's a tidbit that I recently learned:

When swapping a dual master cylinder (drum or disc) onto a power brake car
which originally had a single system (ie, 66 and earlier), the power booster
will also need to be changed.  Tom Simmons and I found this out the hard way
(is there any other?) during the great
disc-brake-and-suspension-and-while-we're-at-it-we-mightaswell... flog on his
65 Cutlass.  We had hoped (actually, I had assumed) that the new disc brake
master cylinder would bolt to the 65's original power booster.  Nope.  Turns
out that the single brake circuit cars use a significantly longer pushrod on
the front of the power booster than the later dual-circuit cars.  The good
news is that I had a good power booster on the 67 Cutlass parts car that
bolted into the 65 like it was born there.  The later booster is an inch or
two larger in diameter than the original unit, but it just clears the inner
fender.  Fortunately Tom's 65 is 330 powered, as a big block would need the
notched valve covers.  Installation of the wiper motor is tight but doable.  I
was hoping to retain the small booster on my 66 to allow the use of taller
valve covers, but apparently not without modifying the pushrod.  A quick
comparison of the two master cylinders (after the fact, naturally) reveals
that the single master cylinder piston has a much deeper hole for the pushrod
than the dual master cylinder piston.

The other thing to watch out for is clearance between the new master cylinder
and the hood.  Tom used a 70 A-body disc brake master cylinder, which
obviously is longer and thus comes closer to the underside of the hood.  It
clears (we _did not_ slam the hood the first time), but the underhood pad will
likely rub on the master cylinder cover, eventually wearing away that
beautiful Eastwood Golden Cad paint.  Note that aftermarket master cylinders
may not use the same cover configuration as the original disc brake master
cylinders (this one almost looks like a Ford cover - taller than stock), so
you'd better check.

Another pointer:  this 65 was originally a column shift car (since converted)
and still had the linkage bracket bolted to the frame at the base of the
firewall.  We pulled that off, and lo and behold, the disc brake combination
valve bolted right up to two of the frame bracket bolt holes - correct spacing
and even the right thread!  It's a little further back than stock, but
conveniently appears to be out of the way of potential future headers.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30





_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 23:48:20 EDT
From: <BrKLynS@aol.com>
Subject: hey guys.im looking for pics of a 64 cutlass or 442.

hey wassup guys.i desperatley need pics of a 64 olds cutlass or 442.either if
its on the net or u guys send them to me.if on the net,send me the
address.thanks everybody. u guys r the best.
                         joe

 64 cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 23:57:32 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@viperlink.net>
Subject: Re: Computer Controlled Distributor

Charley Buehner wrote:
>
> > I'll get to the point...
>
> No points, HEI  :)
>
> > It's got an electronic advance dist.
>
> Any aftermarket ignition add-ons should be fine, high output coil, low
> resistance wires, high-perf plugs, etc.  Cap and rotor, too, if there ever 
are
> any available...

Got all of the above, except an ignition box...  <G>

> The computer expects base timing to be set at a preselected
> point (20 deg or so???)  It then runs on an electronic spark map to spark adv
or > ret based on rpm, vacuum, tps, temp, speed, etc.  Anything after the 
module
to > make the spark better won't have adverse affects (the ECM won't know about
it) > Same goes for better air intake systems, and (to a point) exhaust mods.
Above > that, you can find (hopefully) a hi-perf chip, and lower temp
thermostat, and > above ~that~ you can throw the computer stuff away, and drop
in a 455 ;)

The money I woulda spent on a perf chip for this Y motor woulda bought
at least a barebones 455...  I ain't putting nothing else in this money
pit motor..  Off to the BIG BOYS...  It's a nice motor, don't get me
wrong...  I just can't do a thing to it without the stupid computer
getting involved... Best way to end that problem...  #1, take out the
computer, and at the same time #2 DROP IN A 455   (Been looking at
prices on "crate"  455's, and a place to do the work...  Not that I
can't, just don't have time or space)
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 00:18:22 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@viperlink.net>
Subject: Hookt Beig Blox workt fer me

I appologize for my seeming lameness.  This is not intended to start a
war either :)

Running ideas through my head, and figured only experienced Rocket
scientists might help..

455 VS 425:
If you were doing a mild budget build up?
What about a Street/Strip Motor?
Which one can take the most abuse, and still crank in the morning to get
my butt to 	work?
What are the STRUCTURAL MOUNTING differences between the two?

455 blocks:
Which is a better option -
  1. Used 455 currently in a car?
  2. Used 455 from a Junk Yard, and rebuild?
  3. Crate 455?

I'd like to rebuild, won't with a crate though, and do the pistons, cam,
and other basic block performance options, won't that defeat finding a
special block?  If not, is there a specific BLOCK that's better than
others?

Have I asked too many questions?

Tune in next week, when our faithful hero chants "BIG BLOCK, BIG BLOCK,
BIG BLOCK!"
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 01:18:27 EDT
From: <WheelTrdr@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 750 dual feed/double pumper Vs 780 dual feed/vacuum secondary-Rob

855 Holley ?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 23:19:58 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: e-wrecking yards

Found this on the net, some might find interest.  CA location, lots of older
stuff.

- --
The Oldsmobile Magnet -- Charley Buehner@Sidney Montana
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com or mailto:charley@rocketship.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner  -- Oldsmagnet Homepage
OldsList Vital Info: http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 01:25:08 EDT
From: <WheelTrdr@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Springfield Olds Nationals 1998

When ?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 01:37:02 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass drag car project saga

Jason P. Labay wrote:

> good pace.  If I can't land a good Olds 455 soon, I plan to drop in one of 2
Buick 455's I > have setting at the salvageyard.  One is a 71 motor,

Jason, you're breaking my heart.  Does the passenger compartment have
any rust in it?  Like the floors, qtrs, etc?  Next question, what do you
know about the 71 455 Buick motor?  Did it come out of a GS, and if so
what can you tell me about it?  Email me direct to save the list
bandwith.  Later.....

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 00:43:29 +0600
From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Subject: Re: e-wrecking yards

>Found this on the net, some might find interest.  CA location, lots of older
>stuff.

Um......I think you forgot to hit "paste" before you sent the message
Charley.   :)

<wise @## mode off>

What's the address?

Thanks,

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 23:47:55 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: e-wrecking yards

> Um......I think you forgot to hit "paste" before you sent the message
> Charley.   :)

Uh, err, well, umm....  Oops!  How about:
http://www.gillys.com

Going back to hide in my corner now.  Guess it must be close to Monday!

CB

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 01:59:01 EDT
From: <WheelTrdr@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 780 vacuum sec 4 sale& other acc.

I'm  interested , what  city / state  are you  in ?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 18:44:17 -0600
From: "Igor" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: 455/400

Yeah, thanks.  I see what you are saying.  My other friend has a '76
Cutlass with 350, 2.29s and one out of tune pice of crap engine (the 350).
BUT, it is still faster then the truck.  I am just afraid that the 455 in a
Delta would make one heck of a heavy pig that will be difficult to pull.
We will see I guess.  I also have a Dodge MAXIVan with 360 and 4.10s (open
stile)  This thing will pull away good from the truck (and it is camperized
too. What a sleeper) but due to its weight, RVcam, unaerodynamics and the
727trans, after 60 this thing is a slow.  I know the 2.41s will give me
great top end and top speed.

Igor Todorovic, UofC
1981 Delta 88 (455/TH400, 255/60/15 BFG, 2.41limited slip)
1981 98 Regency (every option, 307/200r4/propane)
1976 Delta 88 (now parts car, was 455)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360, RVcam, 4:10 gears, tire smoker, king off the line)
1995 Intrepid (3.3L, dads car, okay, but no Delta)

- ----------
> From: DYeager535@aol.com
> To: todorovb@cadvision.com
> Subject: 455/400
> Date: Sunday, June 14, 1998 12:10 PM
>
> Igor,
>      Just thought I would through my experience in for your benefit, if
it
> helps any. I am running a 403/400 combo, with 2.41 posi, in my 86 Salon.
This
> car will DESTROY my friends truck off the line, and long distance
(Pulling
> only 3000rom at WELL over 85 mph : )  )   I know mine is probably
lighter, but
> it is bone stock, except a dual snorkle setup I made. It is also songle
> exhaust. His truck is an 83  Chev 1 ton 4 door w/small block and 4.11
locker.
>      The small blocks are great, but the Olds engines put out way more
torque,
> which the small block trucks need, but don't have. My suggestion would be
for
> duals, using factory manifolds if possible. I know a few people who put
on
> headers, and hated them enough later to get rid of them. I personally
don't
> think the small tradeoff in power is worth all the problems you end up
with on
> headers. Unless you spend big bucks, they usually rust out, don't fit
well,
> are noisy, make it hard to change things like sparkplugs, etc.
>      Around here, depending on difficulty, with mufflers included, you
can get
> dual exhaust INSTALLED for about $200. That would, and will, be my choice
when
> I get enough money to get it put on. They say on a small block chev you
gain
> 15-20 hp just by going dual with manifolds. A 455 should give much more
with
> duals. Good luck,  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 02:42:15 EDT
From: <WheelTrdr@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Holiday Coup Designation

It  means  the  its  a  "Holiday  Coupe " , NOT  a  fastback  or  conv.
.....As  I  understand  it  its  the  roofline ( non - fastback ) and  rear
qtrs. ( which  I  have  been  told  the  H / C &  the conv. are  the  same ,
the  fastback  has  different  rear  quarters ) and  naturally  "coupes "  are
2  door  cars .

Al - 72  Cutlass  Supreme / Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 02:45:35 EDT
From: <DiscoOzzy@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kerry's xtra parts

In a message dated 6/14/98 3:21:46 PM

> What motor is the 4bbl intake from?  I'm looking for one for the 330 in
>  my 67 Cutlass

I wish I could help you here. I think someone determined it is from a bb. It's
14 inches, and was casted sometime in '66. Other than that, all I know is that
it is Olds. Oh yeah, and it has the choke thing on it. I bet that helps!
peace,
Kerry

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 02:55:50 -0400
From: Trevor Lee <lee@mergetel.com>
Subject: Re: anybody know?

Charley Buehner wrote:

> > does anybody have any idea where Trevor Lee aka Screech   
(Lee@mergetel.com)
is at ? > > Maybe his chevy wouldn't start, leaving him stranded somewhere! > >
(If he's around, and just hiding, ~that~ ought to bring him out! :)

Good try, Charley - but it won't work!  Oh wait...it just did, didn't it?  :)
FYI, the Chevy DID start - yesterday at about 1pm for about half a minute 
before
I had to replace the nylon tubing running from my block up to my oil pressure
gauge since like an idiot I forgot to tie it up away from the header :)  But at
3:30 I was able to keep 'er going for close to 10 minutes before my drunken
neighbour came over to complain.  Exhaust goes on Tuesday or Wednesday and then
the REAL break-in starts.  :)

Ryan - I apologize about the extra-long delay in updating your section of my
Readers' Rides page - I have been quite a bit busier than usual, but I suppose
that's not really an excuse.  :)  I'll get goin' on that now - even tho it IS
3am!

I know most of you won't give a rat's ass about my Chevy engine, but if you
wanna see some very contrasting before and after shots I'll have some posted
shortly - gotta get 'em developed and scanned first - and yes I know that it
won't look as good as it did since it doesn't have the oil filler tube stickin
up the front of the block or nothing.  But if it's any consolation - when I cut
& installed my wires I had the order for the OLDS engine in my head and did 'em
backwards on the distributor - took me a whole half day to catch this too!
Happy now, all you die-hard Olds fans???  :) - -- Trevor Lee (aka Screech) 
Owner
- TL Tech Co-Owner - Future Micro 1976 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Brougham / 
468
BB Chevy (see it at:  http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/) 1976 Buick Century
"Free Spirit" Pace Car (w/Hurst Hatches) If you have any info on this car,
PLEASE visit it's website: (see it at:  http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/century/)
mailto:lee@mergetel.com Welland, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 01:04:47 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: anybody know?

> > Maybe his chevy wouldn't start, leaving him stranded somewhere!
> >
> > (If he's around, and just hiding, ~that~ ought to bring him out! :)
>
> Good try, Charley - but it won't work!  Oh wait...it just did, didn't it?  
:)


Told ya!   :)

> But at 3:30 I was able to keep 'er going for
> close to 10 minutes before my drunken neighbour came over to complain

AM or PM??????????  Sounds alot like here, sort of...  3:30 AM, still working 
on
the car, or 3:30 PM, neighbor's already drunk.....


> rat's ass about my Chevy engine,
  ^^^^^ ^^^          ^^^^^ ^^^^^^
Ooh, that's funny!!! Bad pun and Good pun, all in one!  :)

 when I cut & installed my wires I had the order for the OLDS engine
> in my head and did 'em backwards on the distributor - took me a whole half 
day
to catch > this too!  Happy now, all you die-hard Olds fans???  :)

Well, best of luck on the break in and thereafter.  Here's hoping you can get
'er going soon so the hood can go on (to cover the incriminating evidence ;)

The Oldsmobile Magnet -- Charley Buehner@Sidney Montana
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com or mailto:charley@rocketship.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner  -- Oldsmagnet Homepage
OldsList Vital Info: http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 06:28:57 +0000
From: ejhufnagel@juno.com (Edward J. Hufnagel)
Subject: Re: Kerry's xtra parts

On Mon, 15 Jun 1998 02:45:35 EDT <DiscoOzzy@aol.com> writes:

. I think someone determined it is from a
>bb. It's
>14 inches, and was casted sometime in '66. Other than that, all I know
>is that
>it is Olds. Oh yeah, and it has the choke thing on it. I bet that
>helps!
>peace,
>Kerry

             How much do you want for it?

            E.J.

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 08:00:10 EDT
From: <GraphixRUs@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Thanks to All (was distributer)

I dropped one in the pan of our bracket car seven years ago. It is still
there. It can not

possibly hurt anything.  I have been waitingfor the right opportunity to tell
this story. If the pump screen is a the proper level from the bottom of the
pan, it will not roll between the screen pan. I suppose for some this may be a
shody thing to do but the pan had NEVER  been off of the engine (1968 -400 cu.
in. 442 std. shift engine ) & i have had the engine in four different road
cars before putting it in the bracket car. It is a bone stock engine. original
factory cam , lifters and everything. I am going to guess it has about 200,000
miles on it. I replace the factory  timing chains at 75,000 mile & put it a
good steel tooth gear & driveum.
I could not replace that engine for $4000. I attribute it's longevity to the
factory balance job & the fact that i change the oil & filter every 3000
miles. When i had it in a 64 cutlass once,  the coolant temp ( 50'% antifreeve
,50% water ,15#cap) ran about 255  for about 2 weeks before i could get a 4
row radiator on it.I actually had to have one made. The radiator support on a
64 is over 1" shorter than a 65 & a 65 442 radiator will NOT fit.
The engine in a 65 cutlass body with 3.91 gears runs 7.90 sec. in 1/8 mile.
That is not real fast but Rog II & i fiddled aroud with suppension a lot & had
GOOD  60 ft. times , as low as 1.30's. That is where we won races. It would
come off the line SO quick the other guy would often red light.even if he
didn't ,if he was running a delay box he would go manual & break out.
Now my old  400 sets in my W-30 waiting for Rog II ( he drove at the drags).
Thanks for indulging me.
byeeeeee.
Roger

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 08:17:06 EDT
From: <GraphixRUs@aol.com>
Subject: Re: anybody know?

That is something like a chebby guy  putting wires on an Oakland ( Pontiac).
Well let me see where is # 1 ??????????
Roger

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 08:20:55 EDT
From: <GraphixRUs@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kerry's xtra parts

Is there a particular reason you want a 67 cast iron intake? Originality?
There are Performer intakes around for around $100  & it would be a big
improvement. Just don't go tooo big on a carb.
My .02 cents
Roger

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 98 07:32:51 -0600
From: scc@teamquest.com
Subject: WANTED: 68 442 stripes info...

     With all the olds guru's out there nobody has given me any info
     on the fender stripes on a 68 442.  These are the stripes on the
     front fenders, that go behind the front wheels.

     Things I do know:

     There are 3 stripes.
     1 wide one with a narrow stripe on each side of it.
     The stripe does not go through the 442 emblems.
     The stripe does not go over the hood but only on the fenders.

     Things I need to find out:

     The width of each of the stripes and the gap between them.



     There, that is all I need to find out.  Maybe there isn't any of these
     striped cars out there anymore.......  NA, come on.  :-)

     Steve

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 08:39:17 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: '87 442 wheels 4sale

In a message dated 98-06-10 13:16:11 EDT, you write:

<< Before you do anything drastic, like getting rid of your
 three......e-mail me. At last check, I know the location of two (2),
 new, still in boxes.
  >>
Joe,
would you (or anyone else) know where i can find Rallaye Wheels for a 77
Ninety eight?
Bruce

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 08:46:56 EDT
From: <ANTIQOLDS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 69 under the bumper scoops...

In a message dated 98-06-15 05:03:52 EDT, you write:

<<
 Does anybody have an idea where I can get a set of under the bumper scoops
 for a 69 W30???  Any idea on the prices???



 >>
    I have a friend with a set of real decent ones with new moldings. He needs
a nice set for his 68 W-30. He will not sell them until he gets a 68 set. If
he could trade his for them OK otherwise he will wait for the ones he needs.
   Do you know or anyone know of a 68 set? I will get anyone in contact with
Jeff if you do.

Everett   OCA # 1961    1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 08:02:13 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Date:	Mon, 15 Jun 1998 08:02:13 -0500

Raced this weekend. knocked off a couple of ch#@ys too.

What Fun!


===========================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
Cutlass403@ameritech.net
1971 Cutlass S 455
Westside! Chitown IL
Bulls Win!  Bulls Win
===========================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 08:24:54 -0500
From: The Eichholz's <eichholz@liljasper.com>
Subject: 67 cutlass for sale

If anyone is interested,please reply privately.Thanks

1967 cultass post 3302bbl jetaway on the column green\blue inside,was white
someone painted gray outside.It had been wrecked ot one time or another,because
it has a 66 grille and headlamp assy .Runs and drives,though.I have put about
100 miles on it,it seems to be sound.I bought two cars,this one and 67 442 in a
package deal,htought this one was sold,but it came back,the loser does not have
any money.You can call me with direct questions at 219-866-0600 Price=1650.00
cheap parts or complete. Thanks Tony

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 09:31:20 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Oh, well, back to work!

It was nice rejoining you folks for the weekend, but I gotta get back to
work! See you in a few more weeks.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400
1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 360/TF727

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 09:07:21 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@leadbelt.com
Subject: pushrod ? & others


When I removed the cr*p-encrusted pushrods from my engine, I didn't notice
that they have a very small hole about 1/2" from one end. I presume the end
with said little tiny hole goes up when re-installing. Correct or not?

Timing chain looks okay but has what seems to me to be lots of slack. Need
replacing? Any way to just remove links?

Having trouble getting one head off (driver side). All bolts out & x-man
off. Won't budge. Have beat on it, pried on it, talked both nice and nasty
to it. Any suggestions?

TIA,

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 10:06:14 EDT
From: <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Springfield Olds Nationals 1998

July 15-18. Springfield Illinois at the Crowne Plaza Hotel.
Jim

WheelTrdr@aol.com writes:

<< When ? >>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 10:04:39 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Hookt Beig Blox workt fer me

At 12:18 AM 6/15/98 -0400, you wrote:
>455 VS 425:
>If you were doing a mild budget build up?

455: more low-end torque and parts are easier to find

>What about a Street/Strip Motor?

425: you can rev the snot out of it

>Which one can take the most abuse, and still crank in the morning to get
>my butt to 	work?

Oh, either can stand your abuse.

>What are the STRUCTURAL MOUNTING differences between the two?

None.

>455 blocks:
>Which is a better option -
>  1. Used 455 currently in a car?

Very good option: If it's running in that car, it will run in your car.

>  2. Used 455 from a Junk Yard, and rebuild?

Good option: Since you're rebuilding it, you know what you're putting into
it. Big drawback is getting the engine home, and finding a couple rods have
been "blue'd" (spun a bearing so bad that the metal overheated and turned
blue), in which case you need a new crank and some rods.

>  3. Crate 455?

Depends whose crate it comes in. A standard rebuild 455 over the counter at
Pep-Boys will have the cheapest parts that are just good enough not to blow
up on enough engines that rebuilding them is profitable. Usually all
low-compression, and often used later blocks, smogger J-heads, and
low-performance cam (it's intended to cover a variety of applications, so
they build them for the lowest common denominator). This is the worst
scenario for a performance engine.

OTOH, a regular 455 shortblock is pretty stout, even with stock pieces. If
you do a set of good heads and use your own cam, starting out with a
"crate" shortblock might be a viable option, as you can probably pick one
up for less than the cost of machine work alone on a junkyard 455. Just
don't spin it past 5000rpm!

OTOH, OTOH, if you picked up one of those few NOS crate W-30 shortblocks
that Berejik has stashed away in his parts dept, then you'd have a pretty
good engine to start with, I'd say... ;)

>I'd like to rebuild, won't with a crate though, and do the pistons, cam,
>and other basic block performance options, won't that defeat finding a
>special block?  If not, is there a specific BLOCK that's better than
>others?

Well, the earlier blocks have higher nickel content, which makes them
harder and which makes them wear less, though I've yet to hear of someone
tearing up the mains or cylinders on a later 455 block. For all intents and
purposes, a street 455 will do just fine with any well-prepared block. In
fact, I'd say a well-prepared '76 block would fare better than a
poorly-prepared '68 block.

>Have I asked too many questions?

No, sounds like you're just getting started; the problem is when people ask
TOO FEW questions!
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400
1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 360/TF727

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 10:31:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Re: Who is going to Lansing?

I'm going to Lansing.  Because I live here!  A great place to eat is at the
Blue Coyote.  It is a brew pub with great food and BEER! It is one block east
of oldsmobile park.  On Pere Marquette.  Let me know I'll meet ya there

Doug Harkema
70 CS convertible
Holt, MI


> > Who
is going to Oldsmobile Lansing Homecoming next week on the 20th? >
> I plan on being there on Saturday (20th) and I was wondering if any other 
List

> members were interested in meeting for lunch or dinner?   I would need
> suggestions on a place to go that is close to the show.
>
> P.S.  Does anyone have more details on this show?  I heard about it on this
> list but I am not exactly sure were in Lansing Michigan it is.
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 10:26:48 -0400
From: "Shokouhi, Mike" <ShokouhM@nasd.com>
Subject: 69 H/O emblems

I'm in the last stretch of my 69 H/O resto, does anyone have experience
restoring the 3 external emblems? Any words of wisdom would be
appreciated.

Also, I am short one of these emblems, does anyone know where I might be
able to find one of these guys?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Mike Shokouhi

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Jun 1998 10:22:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: 461 C-3 Cadillac questions  (LONG)

> I don't know how you can smooth out the idle, but I understand what you
> meen about the uneven idle.  I have '81 Dodge van with an aftermarket cam

After further experimentation with adjusting the TPS and resetting the
ECM, the idle has improved.  It still has to run at 1000 RPM in park and
~725 RPM in drive in closed loop.  Currently, there's a problem with
exhaust system resonance (damned low-restriction mufflers! <g>) when the
A/C compressor engages while sitting at idle in gear.

> do this on my '81 Delta 88.  Since the two cars share a similar chassis, I
> would like to ask you a few questions.

The chassis are indeed similar, but note that the wheelbase is 5.6"
longer, a result of a stretch in two places: the rear door area and
between the cowl and front wheels.  This shouldn't really matter, however.

> Question 1: You say you used the 307 engine mounts.  Is that both the
> engine and frame mounts.

Correct; both engine and frame mounts from the 307 worked perfectly.

> Question 2: What kind of a rear-end/tranny are you running.  What about the
> power difference between the 455 and 307.

It is working fine with the stock THM200-4R.  I've been careful to get off
the throttle between shifts and shift manually when necessary!  A thorough
rebuild is in the planning stage; I'm wondering which stall converters are
available because the stock ~1500 RPM converter (with 2.93:1 rear gears
and 2.74:1 1st gear) is too low for a quick off the line launch with this
engine/camshaft combo.

> Question 3: Have you noticed a big difference when going to dual exaust
> from single.  I am not sure what to do. Single or Dual.  Money is the
> primary issue.

I still haven't resolved the lean condition at high RPM in 2nd and
3rd, but the dual exhaust has resulted in a noticeably more rapid RPM
climb in 1st gear.  Before, you'd feel the torque peak in the 3000 RPM
range, then things slowed down a touch approaching 4000 and above.
Perhaps a single exhaust system with well chosen components (my
single was completely stock) would work satisfactorily?  Note that recent
LT1 B/D cars and older 442's, etc. did come with dual exhausts from the
factory, so this probably is the better way for performance and sound.

> Question 4: I will also use the stock carb/distributor. Any problems there.

The only adjustment I had to make was with the idle screw and ILC (idle
load compensator).  Due to the camshaft, the idle throttle opening had to
be a bit wider.  Swapping secondary metering rods is a cinch.

> Question 5: Is there any clearance between the engine and frame so that
> headers are possible.

There's clearance between the manifolds and frame, but I don't have the
experience to say if headers would work.  The RH (passenger) manifold
rear flange comes awfully close to the floor/cowl, which really wouldn't
matter since headers don't have that rearward upside-down "U" extension.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1311
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