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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1352


oldsmobile-digest       Wednesday, July 8 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1352



Re: 68-72 cutlass convertibles
Re: Blower on an Olds engine  (Paxton supercharger)
test site for pics/ send me email
Re: Forgive my ignorance but
Re: Blower on an Olds engine  (Paxton supercharger)
Re: Original A/C on 72 Cutlass supreme
Harmonic Balancer
Re: Harmonic Balancer
571145 and Shimming Starters
Re: Whose Slipping? -- Was Re: '56 Station Wagon???
Re: Convertible Frame Q.
Re: 98/96, 88/86, 78/76
Returned mail: User unknown
Re: test site for pics/ send me email
RE: Convertible Frame Q.
Re: test site for pics
UNBOUNCE: Phoenix Paint Recommendation?
Re: Convertible Frame Q.
Re: Wanted: '77-'79 Delta Remote Mirror
Re: Nice day isnt it?
UNBOUNCE: '57 Center Diff Section Swap
88 dead??
Re: W-25 O.A.I. Hood Question
76 Cutlass Grill
81-88 cutlass 2-dr wthr strppg
RE: W-25 O.A.I. Hood Question
RE: 69 Convert Resto
'57 or '58 was Re: '56 Station Wagon etc
Re: 81-88 cutlass 2-dr wthr strppg
Re: Leaky Oil Dipstick
Re: 68-72 cutlass convertibles
Re: Harmonic Balancer
Re: '57 or '58 was Re: '56 Station Wagon etc
Re: Chrome plating
Re: Wanted: '77-'79 Delta Remote Mirror
Nice day isnt it?
FS: 1962 Olds 98 2Dr HT
Looking for Olds 442 owner
Re: W-25 O.A.I. Hood Question
parts needed
70 cutlass parts
'85-'87 442 Wheel Paint
Re: Original A/C on 72 Cutlass supreme
Black inner fender restoration
Re: 81-88 cutlass 2-dr wthr strppg
Re: 81-88 cutlass 2-dr wthr strppg
Olds block casting number
Re: Olds block casting number
Re: Olds block casting number
Re: Olds block casting number
Re: Olds block casting number
Re: Black inner fender restoration
Re: UNBOUNCE: '57 Center Diff Section Swap
Re: '57 or '58 was Re: '56 Station Wagon etc
Re: UNBOUNCE: '57 Center Diff Section Swap
list removal
Re: Forgive my ignorance but
Trans Am Headers
Saffron Returns
Re: Roger's Tri-power intake
Re: It's official, 88's are dead
Re: Roger's Tri-power intake

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 18:15:24 EDT
From: <ANTIQOLDS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 68-72 cutlass convertibles

In a message dated 98-07-07 11:56:21 EDT, you write:

<<
 hey do you have the plastic pieces for the headlights on the 442 parts car I
 need the left ones for my 442 any help?
 -----Original Message----- >>
what year do you need them for? these are different over the years


Everett   OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 17:41:42 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Blower on an Olds engine  (Paxton supercharger)

In a recent Chevy Craft or Hot Rod (I will look up which tonight) they
had a shootout of fastest street cars or something like that.  But all
the Ch#vy's (ALL NITROUS!)  were running 9's, 10's.  There were 2
Pontiac's that were NON NITROUS and they both mid-low 10's and low 11's.
 Hmm, and they both DROVE To the meet!  (hmm, STREET CAR?!?!?!)

Now, I have no doubt a Pontiac 455 and an Olds 455 have similar torque
and power charateristics and would respond to the similar mods.  (And
the Pontiac 455 V8 can pull 9's and still never see over 6000!!  Try
that in a Ch#vy!!)

So No, don't waste your engine on Nitrous, it is just a temporary hp
fix, get some real power.  Then there are no bottles to refil, no danger
to of hitting the NO2 at idle or eng off, just pure raw power at your
command any time you mash the loud pedal!

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 15:45:03 -0700
From: "mr. coy d. arbogast" <coyster@earthlink.net>
Subject: test site for pics/ send me email

coyster@earthlink.net
OPened this test site and need to see if you all can read and view it.
Thanks Coy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 17:52:49 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Forgive my ignorance but

I would look at the Impala SS and see if you can adapt the exhaust from
it.

Visit and talk to the Impala SS Guru's.  http://www.crl.com/~impala/

They can help.

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 17:54:14 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: Blower on an Olds engine  (Paxton supercharger)

amen brotha

- -----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
To: 'olds' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, July 07, 1998 5:41 PM
Subject: Re: Blower on an Olds engine (Paxton supercharger)


>In a recent Chevy Craft or Hot Rod (I will look up which tonight) they
>had a shootout of fastest street cars or something like that.  But all
>the Ch#vy's (ALL NITROUS!)  were running 9's, 10's.  There were 2
>Pontiac's that were NON NITROUS and they both mid-low 10's and low 11's.
> Hmm, and they both DROVE To the meet!  (hmm, STREET CAR?!?!?!)
>
>Now, I have no doubt a Pontiac 455 and an Olds 455 have similar torque
>and power charateristics and would respond to the similar mods.  (And
>the Pontiac 455 V8 can pull 9's and still never see over 6000!!  Try
>that in a Ch#vy!!)
>
>So No, don't waste your engine on Nitrous, it is just a temporary hp
>fix, get some real power.  Then there are no bottles to refil, no danger
>to of hitting the NO2 at idle or eng off, just pure raw power at your
>command any time you mash the loud pedal!
>
>Thomas Martin
>85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
>91 Bonneville LE 3800
>80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 18:01:43 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Re: Original A/C on 72 Cutlass supreme

Litke, David wrote:
>
> Hey Everyone,
>
>         I Enjoy reading this list quite a lot and since I am fixing up my 72
> Cutlass supreme can anyone give me tips on getting the A/C working.  There
> is no cold air at all  and I was wondering what the possiblity of having an
> A/C shop evac the system and convert the system to R-134. The previous owner
> said that the A/C didn't work and it had been so long that she didn't know
> why.  I hate to spend $150 to find that I have to buy a compressor or
> something and then respend the money.  At least with the R-134 system I can
> do the job myself for $50 or so and $5 to refresh the system if it leaks.
>
>         Has anyone had experience with this system, I am totally ignorant.
> Help, the summer is getting hot.  I just installed a set of aftermarket
> guages so I could see if the engine is overheating, a personal prerequisite
> before getting the A/C fixed.
>
> litke.david@tci.com
> '72 Cutlass Supreme
> '73 98 Regency


Well you need to start with some basic diagnostics to help determine the
problem.

1.) Does the compressor "kick in" when you turn the A/C on?
2.) Open one of the service ports (the things that look like big tire
valve stems) and press the valve open with a screw drive for just a
short burst. Is there any pressure in the system?
3.) Look around all of the hose connections - are they clean or greasy?


The majority of all A/C problems are one of 2 things
1.) The compressor is not functioning correctly or not at all.
2.) The system is low on Freon.

Of course there certainly can be other problems, but these two are the
most common in my experience.

Do some testing and let us know the results - once we get it down to a
specific part of the A/C system, then we can narrow it down further with
more tests.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 19:11:13 -0400
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Harmonic Balancer

The balancer on my '71 350 has always (since I got it in '85) had a bad
wobble- I believe the rubber between the hubs is loose.  Maybe someone got
carried away when pulling it....

I have come into possession of a used one from a parts car.  Though the job
is not small, I planned to swap 'em out, since it has always bothered me.
Then, I notice the "new" one is all scored up in the area where the seal is
supposed to ride.

What do you tech types think- smooth up a bit with emery and put it in, turn
it down smooth at work (would take .050" at least), or stick with the wobbly
one?
Bob, Covington, VA
robertan@cfw.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 19:10:42 -0400
From: Jim & Jo Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Harmonic Balancer

Bob

        There are repair sleeves that can be slid right over the existing
shaft area and give you a brand new sealing area. Check your local parts
store. Felpro I think has them.

Jim Chermack


At 07:11 PM 7/7/1998 -0400, you wrote:
>The balancer on my '71 350 has always (since I got it in '85) had a bad
>wobble- I believe the rubber between the hubs is loose.  Maybe someone got
>carried away when pulling it....
>
>I have come into possession of a used one from a parts car.  Though the job
>is not small, I planned to swap 'em out, since it has always bothered me.
>Then, I notice the "new" one is all scored up in the area where the seal is
>supposed to ride.
>
>What do you tech types think- smooth up a bit with emery and put it in, turn
>it down smooth at work (would take .050" at least), or stick with the wobbly
>one?
>Bob, Covington, VA
>robertan@cfw.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 19:27:40 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: 571145 and Shimming Starters

It *finally* got here.

Pretty good shape for being "garage art" for............up to 40 years.

All the bolts are in place and only slight rust on them, all but three of the
nuts came freely.
Liquid wrench is soaking in now.
I will clean it up proper later.
(And it will be a good excuse to finally finish cleaning up my fan shroud!)

['course when I am done with the intake I'll be too exhausted!]

Just one last question, then I will call it quits on this topic.

The J-2 intake only matches the 371cid block because ports will not match (w/o
machining  [  =8-O}   ] ) up to those on the 394.

But is it the 394 block that has the ports or the 394 cylinder heads?

If it is 371 cid motor *cylinder heads* that are required to match the intake,
can 371cid cylinder heads be used on 394cid blocks?

If 371 heads do not fit the 394 block, what is the reason?
(i.e. different bolt pattern, piston clears deck at TDC, different water
jackets..)

Hmmm. If the water jackets are different then the 394 is not just a bored out
371.....

I promise that that is the last of the J-2 questions, sorry to take up
valuable digest space.

(BTW Greg, is there any way to keep that previous garbage out of the archives?
Just the thing to keep for posterity....)


But anyway, I tried to urge ...ummm...someone (sorry!) not to change the
starter clearance by manipulating shims between sarter and block.

My reason was because the info that came with my starter says:

Clanking when starting motor engages - too much clearance, remove shim
High pitched whine after engine starts - too little clearance, add shim

The member who had slow cranking did not mention any noises, so I could only
assume that the starting motor was at the right clearance.

In fact, I am not really sure why shimming the starter would give better
starting.
The engine probably had enough wear from operation to reduce total load at
startup, but that is only a wild hallucination from me.
The important thing is that the Oldsmobile starts properly.

Hmmmm. Wait a sec, I may actually need to shim my starter......
....there was a faint, but slightly high-pitched hum.....

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 19:47:30 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Whose Slipping? -- Was Re: '56 Station Wagon???

Jonathan Parke wrote:

> Thanks to all for the replies about the nonexistent '56 Wagon.  It was
> definitely an Olds and I know it was late '50s.  So probably a '57 or '58.
> If I could see a good photo I might be able to pin it down.

> Jonathan Parke
> '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

Maybe we can narrow this down.  Did your car had two big headlights?  Or
4 smaller ones?

Paul
(who now know that they DID make a wagon in '57)
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net
'67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 20:08:13 -0400
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Re: Convertible Frame Q.

Sounds like you've "been there" on convertible top restoration.
I'm putting a new top motor/pump and hydraulic lines on my '71 Cutlass- have
you got any advice/ warnings/ suggestions?  I wonder how I'll bleed the air
from the system.  Old system used brake fluid (I think- yuck!), and I'm
going over to ATF.  Cylinders seem to be OK, so I'm not replacing.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Joseph Cernada <joec@tpg.com>
To: oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, July 07, 1998 1:54 PM
Subject: RE: Convertible Frame Q.


>
>> Anybody know of a good replacement for the rivets holding the
>convertable
>> links together?
>
>I replaced a pivot type rivet on my '70 Cutlass convertible trunk hinge.
> Used a clevis pin (3/8" x 2" ?) and a washer and metal clip.  Was the
>perfect size to replace the rivet.  The metal clip side is hidden in the
>back of the trunk and the clevis pin side looks just like the stock rivet
>end.
>
>However, this will only work if you've got space for the pin to stick out
>on one side (one end of the clevis pin will set flush against the metal,
>but the other end will stick out at least a 1/2 inch.  And you also need
>to find a pin that's the same size as the rivet.  You can use the washers
>to shim up any loose space since the holes are already drilled in the
>clevis pin.
>
>If you're using the bolts, do you have room to put two nuts on it?  This
>would allow you to tighten the nuts against each other so that they don't
>tighten against your frame links and cause binding...
>
>
>
> ---
>Joseph Cernada
>70 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 20:11:40 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: 98/96, 88/86, 78/76

David L Wyatt wrote:
>
> Did the numbering of body series have something to do with Fisher body?
> Fisher supplied the same bodies to all of GM.  I seem to recall Buicks of the
> late 40's and early 50's having a 70 series as well as others.

I think this is just a coincidence.  Olds only started using the 60, 70
and 90 Series designations in '39.  Before that they used F to denote a
six and L to denote an eight with the model year (F-36 would be a 1936
six model, L-38 would be a 1938 eight model).

Buick had 40, 50, and 60 series as early as 1930.  They started adding
names to the series' in 1936 (Special, Century).  By the early 40s,
their price leader was the Series 40 Special compared to the Olds Series
60 Special (not to be confused with the Cadillac Series 60 Special!).
The Buick comparable to the Olds Series 90 Custom 8 Cruiser was the
Series 70 Roadmaster.  Buick's Series 90 Limited was a big, big car
chassis shared with the larger Cadillacs.

Speaking of Cadillac, there series' were known as Eight, Twelve and
Sixteen in the early 30s.  The started using series numbers in '34 (10,
20, 30, 40 & 60).  In the early 40s their price leader was the 62, then
the 61.  Neither of these used the same body as the Olds 60 Series.  Are
you confused yet?  Their big car line was the Fleetwood 75 Series.

End of today's history lesson,

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 17:13:23 -0700 (MST)
From: Mail Delivery Subsystem <MAILER-DAEMON@primenet.com> (by way of
angst@primenet.com (Dustin Robinette)) Subject: Returned mail: User unknown

The original message was received at Tue, 7 Jul 1998 17:09:59 -0700 (MST)
from daemon@localhost

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To: oldsmobileAchebucto.ns.ca
From: angst@primenet.com (Dustin Robinette)
Subject: Painting 65Olds 98

Is my 1965 Olds 98 Holiday(4door) worth giving it a new paint job? If so,
does any one know of someone in the Phoenix area who is reasonable? Any
suggestions??

Katharine

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 20:19:24 -0400
From: "Angel Castrodad" <angleki@prtc.net>
Subject: Re: test site for pics/ send me email

Ummmm.......... what's the site's URL?
- -----Original Message-----
From: mr. coy d. arbogast <coyster@earthlink.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, July 07, 1998 6:42 PM
Subject: test site for pics/ send me email


>coyster@earthlink.net
>OPened this test site and need to see if you all can read and view it.
>Thanks Coy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jul 98 20:32:00 PDT
From: Joseph Cernada <joec@tpg.com>
Subject: RE: Convertible Frame Q.

> Sounds like you've "been there" on convertible top restoration.
> I'm putting a new top motor/pump and hydraulic lines on my '71 Cutlass-
have
> you got any advice/ warnings/ suggestions?  I wonder how I'll bleed the
air
> from the system.  Old system used brake fluid (I think- yuck!), and I'm
> going over to ATF.  Cylinders seem to be OK, so I'm not replacing.

I replaced the two cylinders on mine -- wasn't too bad a job.  The really
neat thing was when I took apart the back seat area I found front
shoulder seat belts!  Someone (previous owner, factory?) had tucked the
seat belts behind the topwell panels.

My system came with ATF in it.  I just filled a small squirt bottle with
ATF fluid.  Filled the pump reservoir, ran the top up and down, then used
the squirt bottle to refill it and keep repeating this process until the
level stayed constant.  One of the manuals (not sure if its the Olds
chassis manual or the Fischer body manual) shows how to build some
hose/pipe contraption that allows the pump to suck in the extra fluid
from a bigger container so you don't have to keep refilling it.

The Fischer body manual is real helpful in terms of showing you how to
take apart the interior to get at parts.

 ---
Joseph Cernada
70 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Jul 1997 17:43:51 -0700
From: "mr. coy d. arbogast" <coyster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: test site for pics

site address is http://home.earthlink.net/~coyster

mr. coy d. arbogast wrote:

> coyster@earthlink.net
> OPened this test site and need to see if you all can read and view it.
> Thanks Coy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 21:31:30 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Phoenix Paint Recommendation?

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: angst@primenet.com (Dustin Robinette)
Subject: Painting 65Olds 98

Is my 1965 Olds 98 Holiday(4door) worth giving it a new paint job? If so,
does any one know of someone in the Phoenix area who is reasonable? Any
suggestions??

Katharine

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 21:34:10 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Convertible Frame Q.

On Tue, 7 Jul 1998, Andersons wrote:
> I'm putting a new top motor/pump and hydraulic lines on my '71 Cutlass- have
> you got any advice/ warnings/ suggestions?  I wonder how I'll bleed the air
> from the system.  Old system used brake fluid (I think- yuck!), and I'm
> going over to ATF.  Cylinders seem to be OK, so I'm not replacing.

Normally you can just bleed the air out of the system by cycling it up
and down with the reservoir open. It will move slowly or not at all at
first, but with a number of back-and-forths on the switch it will bleed
itself out and should work fine. Been there, done that, worked great.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 21:38:16 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Wanted: '77-'79 Delta Remote Mirror

As an addendum to this: someone is offering me a set of chrome '79
Cutlass mirrors. Any likelihood they are the same as the Delta? If
someone has a parts book they could check this out with I'd appreciate
it. Thanks!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 21:41:11 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Nice day isnt it?

Trond,

What non-Olds content? Nothing to apologize for. I salute you in fact! To
have Oldses in such a far-off place makes me admire your determination and
hard work. Enjoy yourself and your cars!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 21:42:42 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '57 Center Diff Section Swap

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Dr. David Ritter" <c617scc@semovm.semo.edu>
Subject: center section swap

I bought a 1957 88 a few weeks ago, and just found this list yesterday.  The
88 is a good driver; the only problem seems to be some noise from the rear
end. I want to take my center section out and swap in another carrier
assembly to keep driving it.
Question: are 57 thru 64 Olds and Pontiac pigs directly interchangable? Any
driveshaft potential problems at the pinion flange?

Any information appreciated.
David Ritter

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 20:48:37 -0400
From: "deirdre. reilly" <102724.635@compuserve.com>
Subject: 88 dead??

Just a FYI, I received the '99 Olds dealer literature for the Alero, and in
the back it lists the rest of the Olds lineup.  The 88 is listed, so it'll
be around a little longer, at least for this model year.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'83 Cutlass Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 21:07:31 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: W-25 O.A.I. Hood Question

Smetana, Christopher wrote:
>
> Yes the W35 spoiler is listed as dealer-install on club and hardtop
> coupes. (at least according to the documents I have)  Hmm, not on a
> convertible, interesting.

The Supreme (and obviously, convertible) decklid is different than the
coupes. They have a different angle to them which makes the spoiler sit
cocked.  I've seen many ragtops with them, but they didn't come from the
factory that way.

- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 21:26:37 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: 76 Cutlass Grill

I have one NOS in the box.  Just left side $50
If you want to see it let me know I send a picture

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 21:30:35 -0000
From: "erik HILL" <ehill@gowebway.com>
Subject: 81-88 cutlass 2-dr wthr strppg

looking for a good price on weather stripping for my '88 g-body.
(jason-tom-anyone?)

also !!

have you guys lifted up your carpet (as in replacing it) recently.	OOOHH
BOOYYY!
was I surprised..... moisture got trapped under the padding somehow and sat
long enough to allow moderate surface rust of form. the crazy thing about
it was that it was the driver's side only (both front and rear).  just
thought I'd warn you....

Looks like my chances of driving the 307=>350 conversion  to the nationals
is in jeopardy, due to the paint/body work job just getting started
today...That "BEST ENGINE" award was MINE !!!! damn...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 21:32:41 -0400
From: "Alexander Parsley" <parsley@ma.ultranet.com>
Subject: RE: W-25 O.A.I. Hood Question

What does O.A.I. stand for?

- -----Original Message-----
From:	oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Smetana, Christopher
Sent:	Tuesday, July 07, 1998 1:21 PM
To:	'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
Subject:	RE: W-25 O.A.I. Hood Question

Yes the W35 spoiler is listed as dealer-install on club and hardtop
coupes. (at least according to the documents I have)  Hmm, not on a
convertible, interesting.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

>----------
>From: 	Proietto, Fernando [Ontario][SMTP:Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca]
>Sent: 	Tuesday, July 07, 1998 12:00 PM
>To: 	'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
>Subject: 	RE: W-25 O.A.I. Hood Question
>
>I sit corrected. What I meant to say (write), W-25 hoods didn't come with
>350 2bbl engines. Yes, someone could have ordered it as a deal installed
>option, but high unlikely. I believe that the W-35 spoiler was a deal
>install item.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From:	Kurt Heinrich [SMTP:old442@erols.com]
>> Sent:	Monday, July 06, 1998 6:40 PM
>> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject:	Re: W-25 O.A.I. Hood Question
>>
>> Proietto, Fernando [Ontario] wrote:
>> >
>> > Well, Michael, it seems that any of those  possibilities hold. What
>> seems
>> > more interesting is that you have a '72 Cutlass Supreme. A very nice
car
>> by
>> > any means, however, why the W-25 hood? "72 Supremes didn't come with
>> W-25
>> > hoods, back then.
>>
>> I beg to differ.  The options list for the '72 Cutlass Supreme (as well
>> as the Cutlass and the Cutlass S) lists the W25 option as available.
>> What was not availble on Supremes/convertibles was the W35 reardeck
>> spoiler.  Funny though, I don't see THAT listed as on option on ANY '72
>> model, can someone clarify this?
>>
>> --
>> Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
>> 71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
>> OCA# 30442
>>
>> *****************************************************
>> * visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
>> *****************************************************
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 21:32:39 -0400
From: "Alexander Parsley" <parsley@ma.ultranet.com>
Subject: RE: 69 Convert Resto

I just converted my car from front drums to disk brakes.  I am looking for a
disc brake proportioning valve.  Do you or anyone know what year car I can
get this off of?  I am restoring a 69 Olds Cutlass.  The disc brakes came
off a 69 Chevelle.

- -----Original Message-----
From:	oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Mike Rothe.
Sent:	Tuesday, July 07, 1998 2:56 PM
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:	Re: 69 Convert Resto

> I have no real mechanical knowledge, but I want to make this a learning
> project.  I guess I want to know where I should start?

If I were gonna start in on anything first, it's the mechanical side of
things.  This way, you can still drive and enjoy the car while you
restore, if you AREN'T going full bore with a frame off resto or
something heavily detailed.

Where do you want to go today?  This is what you need to ask yourself.
You need to know what you have PLANNED for your car.  This is
important.  Planning.  Do this, and stick to it, and you'll be much
happier.  Now, if you just want to spruce it up with cosmetics, then I
suggest buying all the little trim parts and pieces, lablelling and
storing them until you get them ALL together.  Then, you can replace all
the stuff you want to on it and clean and fix as you go.

One thing you can do is find a friend or someone you know that KNOWS
about cars, and preferrably Oldses, and have them "judge" your car.
Take notes about what they see that needs fixing on the car, and write
them down.  It's fun, and you also get a different, but usually kinder,
perspective on how your car actually is seen by others.  You take the
notes, then do your OWN "judging" and write down some more.  The owner
seems to be ALWAYS more critical of the little things.

Then, prioritize the list from biggest/hardest/most expensive, on down.
What and when does this part need fixing, etc.  Gives you a good idea on
how much you need to spend.

If you want to do a mild or more resto on it, then be prepared.  Take
what you THINK your alloted $$ and TIME budget will be, multiply it by 4
or 5, and this is what it will end up REALLY taking you.  You always
tend to go that 'extra mile' when you really just wanted to repaint the
engine compartment, and end up replating the brake booster and carb.
It happens a lot.  And sometimes, it's worth it.

Basically, you need to have a good idea of where you're at right now,
and where you want to end up, and then figure out how you can get
there.  Sorry this isn't very specific, but you need to assess the
situation for yourself, and you know more than anyone about how well
your wallet can stand the restoration.

One extra tip, get an ASSEMBLY and CHASSIS manual for your car.  They're
still around and available, and shouldn't cost an arm and a leg.  They
are worth their weight in gold for information.

Good Luck.
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 21:36:02 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: '57 or '58 was Re: '56 Station Wagon etc

I wrote:

<snip>
Thanks to all for the replies about the nonexistent '56 Wagon.  It was
definitely an Olds and I know it was late '50s.  So probably a '57 or '58.
If I could see a good photo I might be able to pin it down.


Paul Hartlieb mailto:plh@nbn.net replied:

Maybe we can narrow this down.  Did your car had two big headlights?  Or
4 smaller ones?

========

Thanks Paul for your reply.

========

I don't remember about the headlights.  I've gone back and looked more
closely at pictures of the '57s & '58s.  My memory says the smoother lines
and the chrome piece that separated the two tone looks more familiar.  The
fact that it was definitely a red and white two tone does that make it a
'57?  I don't see any thing in my book about two tone '58s.

Now that I'm on this I went rooting around the attic and dug up some
pictures that my buddy sent me a few years ago.  He had half the pictures
from our trip (for those who haven't followed this thread I'm trying to
figure out the year of a car I had when I was a teenager).  Well, the only
remaining picture of the car is of the engine compartment with the heads
and manifold off... we had barely limped into Rapid City, South Dakota, but
that's another story.  Anyway this picture shows the firewall in detail and
the vent grills in front of the windshield.  Would this give any clue as to
'57 or '58?  I could mail a color copy of the photo to anybody who thought
they could tell.

Anybody got any ideas?

Heck, maybe if I get it all figured out I'll take this to the extreme and
try and buy a red and white two tone wagon.  Anyone got one for sale?

TIA

Jonathan Parke
mailto:jonparke@together.net
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 21:52:52 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: 81-88 cutlass 2-dr wthr strppg

Sorry, Erik, all I have are bad weatherstripping prices...  :-)

Seriously, weatherstripping (from the GM dealer) runs a good $500 for all of
it.  Not worth it in my opinion, unless you have air leaks so large, birds
suddenly "fly" into your backseat...

I'd like to replace some of mine, but I don't know where to go other than
the Oldsmobile dealer, since places like Steele and Year One don't yet sell
G-Body parts.

Sorry...

Jason Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock/

- -----Original Message-----
From: erik HILL <ehill@gowebway.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, July 07, 1998 9:33 PM
Subject: 81-88 cutlass 2-dr wthr strppg


>looking for a good price on weather stripping for my '88 g-body.
>(jason-tom-anyone?)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 18:36:34 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Leaky Oil Dipstick

try blue locktight on the tube the trick is to clean the bore with carb
cleaner (just prior to changing the oil) and the tube apply the locktight to
the tube toward the middle of the mounting area then insert it in the bore
and let it dry thouroughly before trying to put the stick in it or removing
it good luck
- -----Original Message-----
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, July 07, 1998 10:31 AM
Subject: Leaky Oil Dipstick


>
>Unlike many of you who cannot get the oil dipstick out mine fits so loose
>that a simple check of the oil level requires a reinsertion.  Not to
>mention that when this happens it blows a heck of lot of oil out of the
>hole. Anyone have any ideas on firming up the fit? O rings? Silicone?
>Thanks
>
>Al Varhus
>Columbus, Ohio
>http://www.infinet.com/~avar
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 18:43:00 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: 68-72 cutlass convertibles

need them for the 69 also the eyebrow moulding if avail.....
- -----Original Message-----
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com <ANTIQOLDS@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, July 07, 1998 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: 68-72 cutlass convertibles


>In a message dated 98-07-07 11:56:21 EDT, you write:
>
><<
> hey do you have the plastic pieces for the headlights on the 442 parts car
I
> need the left ones for my 442 any help?
> -----Original Message----- >>
>what year do you need them for? these are different over the years
>
>
>Everett   OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 18:45:25 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Harmonic Balancer

try a fel-pro harmonic balancer repair sleeve it puts a hard chrome sleeve
about the area of the scoring    enjoy it works well
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andersons <robertan@cfw.com>
To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, July 07, 1998 4:09 PM
Subject: Harmonic Balancer


>The balancer on my '71 350 has always (since I got it in '85) had a bad
>wobble- I believe the rubber between the hubs is loose.  Maybe someone got
>carried away when pulling it....
>
>I have come into possession of a used one from a parts car.  Though the job
>is not small, I planned to swap 'em out, since it has always bothered me.
>Then, I notice the "new" one is all scored up in the area where the seal is
>supposed to ride.
>
>What do you tech types think- smooth up a bit with emery and put it in,
turn
>it down smooth at work (would take .050" at least), or stick with the
wobbly
>one?
>Bob, Covington, VA
>robertan@cfw.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 22:04:07 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: '57 or '58 was Re: '56 Station Wagon etc

Jonathan Parke wrote:

>Anyway this picture shows the firewall in detail and
> the vent grills in front of the windshield.

This is it!  This is it!

>  Would this give any clue as to
> '57 or '58?

OK, study this photo closely.  The '57 cowl vent grill is full length
and is relatively flat.  The '58 grill is divided in the middle and is
kind of raised toward the back, sort of like a scoop.  Understand what I
mean?

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 22:01:48 EDT
From: <MMBJL@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Chrome plating

I HAVE DEALT WITH THIS GUY: NEW ENGLAND BUMPER 1 DEXTER ROAD-EAST PROVIDENCE
RI. -- DOES GOOD WORK AND I HEAR HE STANDS BEHIND IT VERY WELL. I JUST GOT A
72 442 BUMPER WITH EXAUST CUTOUTS DONE FROM HIM           401-434-6300  IS THE
#
                                                    MARTY      MAIL TO:
MMBJL@AOL.COM
                                                                           OR
:IMBOUD8@AOL.COM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 22:21:24 EDT
From: <ANTIQOLDS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted: '77-'79 Delta Remote Mirror

In a message dated 98-07-07 16:50:06 EDT, you write:

<<
 So what I need is a remote driver's side mirror from a '77-'79 Delta or
 98 (I assume) that has good chrome and a working mechanism. Oh yeah,
 having it not cost a lot would be good too. ;-) Reply directly to me and
 thanks!
  >>
Hi Greg
   I'll check, I think I have one, should have picked that and the exhaust
manifold up while you were here. Maybe you can make another trip, ha.\




Everett   OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire, 1972 Supreme 3 spd, 1971 Vista Cruiser.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 22:13:34 -0400
From: Toby Blom <floridarealtor@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Nice day isnt it?

TRONDJARLE:
Suverent med flere nordmenn pa lista!

You all got that?

(a little norwegian talk to a fellow norwegian oldsmobilist!)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 22:31:23 -0400
From: Les Myer <lmyer@sprynet.com>
Subject: FS: 1962 Olds 98 2Dr HT

Gentlemen:

1962 Olds 98 2dr HT, 62K miles (straight and rust free) + 1962 Olds 98
4dr HT parts car with hard to find options + misc for sale.  Extremely
easy restoration - $2000.00 OBO.

Photos and details are at http://www.probe.net/~lmyer/olds.htm

Please e-mail me privately if interested.

Regards,

Les Myer

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 22:38:30 EDT
From: <DKlauber@aol.com>
Subject: Looking for Olds 442 owner

A few weeks back some one sent me a message about a 70 W-30 conv that was
restored and I lost it before I could reply.  The car was twilight blue and he
said it was frame off restored 3 years ago.  He also said he drives it almost
every weekend to shows.  Any one on the list know of the car and/or owner?
Thanks in advance.
David 71 442 conv-less

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 22:57:55 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: W-25 O.A.I. Hood Question

O - Outside
A - Air
I  - Induction

O.A.I>

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)


- ----------
> From: Alexander Parsley <parsley@ma.ultranet.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: W-25 O.A.I. Hood Question
> Date: Tuesday, July 07, 1998 9:32 PM
>
> What does O.A.I. stand for?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:	oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Smetana,
Christopher
> Sent:	Tuesday, July 07, 1998 1:21 PM
> To:	'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject:	RE: W-25 O.A.I. Hood Question
>
> Yes the W35 spoiler is listed as dealer-install on club and hardtop
> coupes. (at least according to the documents I have)  Hmm, not on a
> convertible, interesting.
>
> Chris Smetana
> Terre Haute, IN
> work: csmetana@dowagro.com
>
> 1969 W-31
> 1969 4-4-2 parts car
> plus others
>
> >----------
> >From: 	Proietto, Fernando [Ontario][SMTP:Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca]
> >Sent: 	Tuesday, July 07, 1998 12:00 PM
> >To: 	'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> >Subject: 	RE: W-25 O.A.I. Hood Question
> >
> >I sit corrected. What I meant to say (write), W-25 hoods didn't come
with
> >350 2bbl engines. Yes, someone could have ordered it as a deal installed
> >option, but high unlikely. I believe that the W-35 spoiler was a deal
> >install item.
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From:	Kurt Heinrich [SMTP:old442@erols.com]
> >> Sent:	Monday, July 06, 1998 6:40 PM
> >> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> >> Subject:	Re: W-25 O.A.I. Hood Question
> >>
> >> Proietto, Fernando [Ontario] wrote:
> >> >
> >> > Well, Michael, it seems that any of those  possibilities hold. What
> >> seems
> >> > more interesting is that you have a '72 Cutlass Supreme. A very nice
> car
> >> by
> >> > any means, however, why the W-25 hood? "72 Supremes didn't come with
> >> W-25
> >> > hoods, back then.
> >>
> >> I beg to differ.  The options list for the '72 Cutlass Supreme (as
well
> >> as the Cutlass and the Cutlass S) lists the W25 option as available.
> >> What was not availble on Supremes/convertibles was the W35 reardeck
> >> spoiler.  Funny though, I don't see THAT listed as on option on ANY
'72
> >> model, can someone clarify this?
> >>
> >> --
> >> Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
> >> 71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
> >> OCA# 30442
> >>
> >> *****************************************************
> >> * visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
> >> *****************************************************
> >
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 22:59:22 EDT
From: <KENSOLDS9@aol.com>
Subject: parts needed

hi all, any one know were there is a set of scoops for a 69 442w30 car , a
buddy of mine need a set. not repros. any help would be great. thanks for any
leads  ken.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 23:08:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 70 cutlass parts

I've been trying to find a few parts for my 70 convertible and am not having
much luck.

    Here is what I need:

    All the woodgrain for the dash and center console

    A black sport steering wheel HORN BUTTON


Can anyone point me to someone who can H*lp me with these parts

Thanks
Doug Harkema
70 CS conv't
Holt  MI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 23:03:29 -0400
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: '85-'87 442 Wheel Paint

A couple of weeks ago someone asked about the gold color on their 442
wheels.  I have found a perfect match in a standard spray can so that you
don't have to buy a quart from the auto parts store.  The paint code is
GM-294 (Dupli-Color) Camel Metallic.  It comes in the standard small spray
can.

The gold painted areas on my 442 wheels always looked sort of weak since I
bought it new.  After 10 years it needed some touch up.  I used the
Dupli-Color paint and the wheels look better than new.

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E & 4L60-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'96 DCM Impala SS   '87 Olds Cutlass 442  '95 Grand Prix

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 23:07:25 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Original A/C on 72 Cutlass supreme

I contacted an expert in AC R&R. He told me the best way to go was to
test the current system to see if it still works. If the R-12 system is
still viable it is best to stay with it. I know that R-12 is expensive
($25.00 per pound) but it is still cheaper than replacing the whole
system.
As for just making the conversion to R-134a, he advised against it. It
will not work nearly as well as the original system.

Just my 2 cents.


Mark Hahn
75 Delta 88 Royale Convertible
 mahahn@fuse.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 22:24:43 -0500
From: Texas442 <texas442@flash.net>
Subject: Black inner fender restoration

Hello list members,

What is a good way to restore the look of the black plastic inner
fenders on a '71 442?  I removed both fenders from the car and cleaned
them very well.  They are in very good condition except they are faded
very bad.  Is there some sort of spray-on treatment that I can use on
them?

Ali
http://www.flash.net/~texas442/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 22:03:02 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: 81-88 cutlass 2-dr wthr strppg

> have you guys lifted up your carpet (as in replacing it) recently.
> moisture got trapped under the padding somehow and sat
> long enough to allow moderate surface rust of form.
> it was the driver's side only (both front and rear).

When I'd detail cars for a living, I noticed alot of that.  Most owners seem
completely unaware of it, too.  When I pulled mine to clean it a couple weeks
ago (Geez, has it been that long already???) I noticed the same problem.  Not 
as
bad, but getting there.   The front was getting moisture in from the speedo
cable grommet on the firewall.  (Probably still is, since I didn't ~fix~ it, 
and
I probably drove through the equivalent of Lake Michigan from rain over the
weekend...  The rear was starting to seep in through the body plug back there.
That's eligable to happen on any part of the floor, though.  Any accessories on
the floor that have been added in life (amplifiers, bullets, etc) that involves
little holes in the floor also create this problem.  The hole doesn't have to 
be
very big to make a very big mess.  Just needs to be there for a longer time.
Usually the first sign is a musty smell, and possible dampness of the carpet.
That jute padding under there will soak up first, and then start to mold,
leaving an incredibly unpleasant smell.  Yuck.  After so long, rust will 
begin.
I've seen many "lesser" vehicles (not to mention names like early 80's Toyota
trucks or anything) that completely rust through to nothiing.  Seen ~lots~ of
those.  Nasty.  Sometimes the door hole grommets will come out and leak, also.
Usually this won't get to the carpet, rather will just gather under the 
A-pillar
and destroy it, instead...
- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 21:07:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: John M <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 81-88 cutlass 2-dr wthr strppg

- ---Jason Adcock <rocketolds@vt.edu> wrote:
, weatherstripping (from the GM dealer) runs a good $500 for all of
> it.

> >looking for a good price on weather stripping for my '88 g-body.
try Soft seal,I've had good luck with their stuff,last I heard they
were working on the T-top seals,should be out by now.Got their
"Roofrail" strips for my 84 about 2 years ago,still doing great,seals
perfectly.
     John
==
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/index.html
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73 http://www.442.com/mcjunkin.html
1984 Cutlass-----Moonroof--307
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!
 mailto:super442@yahoo.com


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 00:08:32 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Olds block casting number

Hi all, saw a motor in the wrecking yard today...got the casting number, but
that's it..wondering what it is. The number is 557752-3B. I looked on the FAQ,
and the closest match was a 260, but one digit off. Just curious, as if I
remember correctly, it had a 4 barrel intake. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 00:23:20 EDT
From: <OLDSMUSCLE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Olds block casting number

DORIAN,
          I CAN ANSWER THAT FOR YOU.....SEEING THAT THIS IS THE EXACT MOTOR
THAT IS IN MY CONVERTIBLE!!  557752-3B IS A 1979 OLDS 350 CI ENGINE.

                                            DAN EDWARDS

                                            70 C/S CONV
                                            87 SALON

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 00:27:22 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Olds block casting number

In a message dated 98-07-08 00:11:05 EDT, you write:

<< The number is 557752-3B >>

What year was this vehicle?

Not the first time something has eluded the FAQ.
Much as the "1A" block did.

My interpretation of the FAQ here is that "2A" and "2B" are both 260's, but
that the displacement of the "3A" is not established.
Perhaps "3A" was an early 307?  Anyone know?

If so, "3B" is likely to be a slightly later 307.

(2A&B were 260 and both 4A and 4B were used for 403 [4B was also 307s])

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 00:55:57 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Olds block casting number

In a message dated 98-07-08 00:32:06 EDT, you write:

<< < The number is 557752-3B >>

 What year was this vehicle? >>


??? No idea, it was, of course, on the ground alone. : )  The heads were also
3 somethings. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 01:00:06 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Olds block casting number

In a message dated 98-07-08 00:41:54 EDT, you write:

<< DORIAN,
           I CAN ANSWER THAT FOR YOU.....SEEING THAT THIS IS THE EXACT MOTOR
 THAT IS IN MY CONVERTIBLE!!  557752-3B IS A 1979 OLDS 350 CI ENGINE.
  >>
   Thanks alot Dan, are your heads also 3 something? If so, why isn't this
info on the FAQ? : ) Always interested when I run across something that isn't
in my meager reference library. Must be pretty anemic heads...was kinda lookin
for some 64-67 cc heads, but I know what I am looking for with those. I may
not even go that route, as the gain per Compression Ratio point (8:1 to 9:1)
is supposedly 3% Wow. I'm not racing, don't need the expense or hassle.
Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 22:10:21 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Black inner fender restoration

sand the entire fender well with 400 grit wet with dish soap (something like
dawn) then paint them with krylon satin black. if they are in basically good
shape just clean them with tire foam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Texas442 <texas442@flash.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, July 07, 1998 8:24 PM
Subject: Black inner fender restoration


>Hello list members,
>
>What is a good way to restore the look of the black plastic inner
>fenders on a '71 442?  I removed both fenders from the car and cleaned
>them very well.  They are in very good condition except they are faded
>very bad.  Is there some sort of spray-on treatment that I can use on
>them?
>
>Ali
>http://www.flash.net/~texas442/
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 01:22:08 EDT
From: <AceFace007@aol.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: '57 Center Diff Section Swap

In a message dated 98-07-07 20:55:46 EDT, you write:

<< I bought a 1957 88 a few weeks ago, and just found this list yesterday.
The
 88 is a good driver; the only problem seems to be some noise from the rear
 end. I want to take my center section out and swap in another carrier
 assembly to keep driving it.
 Question: are 57 thru 64 Olds and Pontiac pigs directly interchangable? Any
 driveshaft potential problems at the pinion flange?

 Any information appreciated.
 David Ritter >>


Hi David!

Congrats on your purchase! I believe that the diffs are all the same, just
different ring and pinion ratios. I believe there were 5 different ratios
available. I will look further into it. If you have noise coming from it you
might ant to check out exactly what it is. It could be your bearings and not
your diff.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 01:29:17 EDT
From: <AceFace007@aol.com>
Subject: Re: '57 or '58 was Re: '56 Station Wagon etc

Paul is right. The '57's had two and the '58's had four headlights. Other than
that, they both looked substanicially different. '57's had only one stripe of
chrome trim going from the door knob to the end of the car. This trim is what
separated the twotone colors. The '58's had a huge chrome trim thing coming
from the headlights to the middled of the door and then this even bigger trim
piece that looked like a luggage rack on the side of it. and the twotone was
only on the roof. That should be pretty damn easy to tell them apart.

WIllie
'57 Olds Super 88

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 01:36:41 EDT
From: <AceFace007@aol.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: '57 Center Diff Section Swap

The ratios for the diffs were:

3.64:1 code 6
3.42:1 code 8
3.23:1 code 9
3.08:1 code 0

The code number is on the differential cover. I have never seen one but I have
heard of ones with positraction. Does anyone have or know about these? To be
honest Dave, what I did is had a custom Dana locking rear end made for me.
Currie can make it to your specs. It's wort it and it's brand new. =)

Willie
'57 Olds Super 88

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 01:38:10 -0400
From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Subject: list removal

	I second the opinion that the "tough guy" should be pulled.or third.
Erik Gertsen
73 Delta 88

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 03:25:02 -0600
From: "Igor" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: Forgive my ignorance but

That is exactly why I am dropping a 455/TH400, 2400 stall converter, 3.23
posi, 10:1CR, dual exaust, Hot Shift Hurst kit, 780CFM Q-jet, etc., etc.,
into my '81 Delta 88 (4-door).  I want a good, BIG car to drive which
handles good (F41, Heavy Duty shocks, 255/60/15 BFG, bushings, HD coils,
etc), has lots of room and confort with power to kick some but.  I don't
want the ultimate drag-racing car but a nice daily driver.  I am just about
done fitting all the mechanics in the car, and then my plans are to have it
painted metalic blue with silver racing stripes, build some side-skirts and
a small air dam and hood induction.  Then do some more suspention and brake
work and finaly lower it 1.5 " (first waiting to see how the 455/TH400 will
sit in the car).  Go ahead, build the Delta.  The only disadvantage you
will have is its weight, but that is what you have to live with for
ultimate coolness and confort/luxury.

Igor Todorovic, UofC
1981 Delta 88 (455/TH400, 255/60/15 BFG, 2.41limited slip,soon 3.23)
1981 98 Regency (every option, 307/200r4/propane)
1976 Delta 88 (now parts car, was 455)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360, RVcam, 4:10 gears, tire smoker, king off the line)
1995 Intrepid (3.3L, dads car, okay, but no Delta)
- ----------
> From: HOFFAX181@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Forgive my ignorance but
> Date: Monday, July 06, 1998 7:49 PM
>
> I don't know a thing about Olds I am really a chevy type of guy and now
just
> getting used to olds but i can't find anything for olds Enthusiasts
Where's
> our mag where can i find info on olds and olds after market parts I have
a
> Delta 88 which everyone tells me I'm nuts for wanting to fix up the
engine
> because it's a luxury car but whats rong with having the best of both
worlds
> if anyone knows where to find info and parts let me know thanx

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 00:12:01 -0600
From: "Igor" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Subject: Trans Am Headers

I just put the 455/TH400 combo into my '81 Delta 88.  The big-block sat in
so nice like it was always there.  Suprisingly (I guess couse of a taller
motor) there is tons of room between the heads and the frame, so I think
some headers may be possible.   I know that TA manifolds will fit (of a 403
TA) but what about headers from this car.  Some people (in exaust shops)
said that the TA and Delta have similar frame up front and that some TA
headers may fit.  Any ideas.  I would not mind even running the TA manifold
but can't find any.  Thanks for any pointers.

Igor Todorovic, UofC
1981 Delta 88 (455/TH400, 255/60/15 BFG, 2.41limited slip)
1981 98 Regency (every option, 307/200r4/propane)
1976 Delta 88 (now parts car, was 455)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360, RVcam, 4:10 gears, tire smoker, king off the line)
1995 Intrepid (3.3L, dads car, okay, but no Delta)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 23:28:31 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Saffron Returns

Had an interesting 'wish' list request.  This person isn't asking for too
much!

Wanted: 1967 442 convertible. MUST BE yellow(safron) with yellow(safron)
interior, automatic, matching numbers,
prefer a/c. Call(609)971-3816 or E-MAIL JUZ440@aol.com

Lisa

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 23:56:03 -0700
From: burling1@juno.com
Subject: Re: Roger's Tri-power intake

They have different angles on the mating surfaces.

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 02:40:37 EDT
From: <David1756@aol.com>
Subject: Re: It's official, 88's are dead

And now in the latest issue of Business Week, in a long article about how GM
should take the opportunity of their current shut down to rationalize
production (shareholders pushing hard for this to maximize values), the
statement is repeated several times that either Buick or Oldsmobile will have
to be shut down.

Which do you think it would be?

I'd say there is a very strong possibility that not only have we seen the last
88's and 98's, but maybe soon the end of Oldsmobile alot earlier than anyone
may have thought.

When you look at the current line up, it comes as little surprise.  Olds
Silhouette is little distinguished from Chevy Venture and Pontiac Transport,
and the Pontiac is alot better looking.  Bravada is an expensive and ugly
Blazer.  Aurora and Intrigue are good looking and both perform well (I
recently had the good fortune to get an Aurora when renting from National in
LA and an Intrigue in Chicago and both were enjoyable cars to drive.  But even
so, the Intrigue is a compromise car when it could have been alot better.  And
it is a corporate clone in the current GM lineup, which makes it hard to add
much to Oldsmobile identity).

Current Buicks are even less interesting than Oldsmobiles, but they sell
better.  There will be huge financial pressures on GM now, and therefore Olds
division is in grave danger of disappearing.  The way GM operates now, Olds is
just a marketing division, not a manufacturer, and that just makes it easier
to kill.  Happy 101st birthday, eh?

David Wilk
OCA 4517

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 23:56:03 -0700
From: burling1@juno.com
Subject: Re: Roger's Tri-power intake

They have different angles on the mating surfaces.

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1352
*********************************
