Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1309


oldsmobile-digest        Sunday, June 14 1998        Volume 01 : Number 1309



body work or work over
Re: Build Sheet-IBM Type Cards
for sale
Re: measurements: '68 98 Convert
Re: How to get lifters out?
73 Toro parts available
NEW SP ID info- destroy old copies please
Broken Valve Spring
Switch Pitch ID Tips [long]
Re: Bench to Buckets..  78-88 G-Body.
Re: body work or work over
455 toro motor
UNBOUNCE: NEW Switch Pitch ID info
Attn:  OCA Members
newman ave show
newman ave olds show
semi-Olds related with parts to boot
Re: Doug's cam bank angle question
Parts Sources [was Re: 425 performance parts]
Re: 455 toro motor
Re: Doug's cam bank angle question
461 C-3 Cadillac questions  (LONG)
Rallye Graphics...
Re: Doug's cam bank angle question
Re: Doug's cam bank angle question
Bench Testing
web page
Holley ID and Junk Day
anybody know?
Problem with Wipers on 85 Cutlass
Re: Bench Testing
Re: newman ave olds show
Re: Holley ID and Junk Day
Re: 73 Toro parts available
Re: Holley ID
Re: anybody know?
olds in new movie "dirty work"
Re: So. Wisc. yards (long)
Re: Rallye Graphics...
Re: Bench Testing
[none]
Fwd: parts classifieds for autos & motorcycles
Re: Doug's cam bank angle question
Re: Holley ID
Last Call-'80 Toro parts

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 13:52:55 EDT
From: <Surmise@aol.com>
Subject: body work or work over

hello listguy and gals,  my 67 442 convert is all over Tulsa and the US but
parts are starting to come home.  Interior and top are back.  Butnow the
bodyman thinks I should replace the right rear qt.  Someone had done a bad
patch over about a third.  Curtis thinks it is easer to replace it than bondo
it.  But I can't find a source for a qt.  Hemmings has one guy that will sell
a skin for the qt.

Question:  1 What is a skin and what does that mean for my car?   2 Does
anybody have a source for high quality sheetmetal?

Thanks
John Stowe
Tulsa,  OK
87% of a 67 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 14:33:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: h-special_nut@mindless.com
Subject: Re: Build Sheet-IBM Type Cards

On Wed, 27 May 1998 "flynt myrick" <f_myrick@hotmail.com> wrote:

>   Thanks for the information on build sheet hiding places.  If I find
>mine, I will let you know.
>   I have never heard of the IBM type computer cards some of you
>mentioned in your reply.  What was the purpose of this card?

I found a similar 8.5"x4" card in a '69 Cutlass 4-door.
It reads approximately as follows:

-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
--

    | BROADCAST     |       | PLT. |  BODY  |   | TRIM   | EXTER PAINT | P | TY
|
    | SEQ | MO | DAY| STYLE |OPT 16| NUMBER |V78|  |COMB.|LWR |UPR |ACT| P | PE
|

|-----|----|----|-------|------|--------|---|--|-----|----|----|---|---|----| |
| | 161 | 09 | 05 | 34239 |      | 104270 |   |  | 964 | 75 |  B |   | 2 |    |
|D| |R| |  1  |  2  |  3  |  4  |  5  |  6  |  7  |  8  |  9  | 10  | 11  | |A|
|-----|-----|-----|-----|-----|-----|-----|-----|-----|-----|-----| |C| |     |
|     |     |     |     |     |     |     |     |     | | | |T| | COPO-F&SO |
IDENT. NO.| |S| | 12  | 13  | 14  | 15  | |1| |-----|-----|-----|-----| | | |
|     | E50 | 037 |


|D| |  1  |  2  |  3  |  4  |  5  |  6  |  7  |  8  |  9  | 10  | 11  |
|N| |-----|-----|-----|-----|-----|-----|-----|-----|-----|-----|-----|
|2| |     |     |     |     |     |     |     |     |     |     |     |
|D|
|R|
|3|
|H|
|T|
|4|
|H|
|T|
|5|
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
--

I have also found a "Soft Trim Broadcast" sheet with hand written entries
in a 65, and a completely hand written tag for a 62 Olds 88 4-door.

       __
      /HS\
      \__/

- ---------------------------------------------------
Get free personalized email at http://www.iname.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 14:39:11 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: for sale

for sale 78 delta 88 royale great parts car tranny shot 350 good
also 85 cieara<sp> wagon excellent cond. engine blown
$200 takes either
Cincinnati Ohio
Mark
mahahn@fuse.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 12:52:53 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: measurements: '68 98 Convert

> I have the option of driving or trailering our 68 from
> Wisconsin to the Boston Area.

Hmm...  If driving's an option, I know what ~I'd~ do...Unless its a last chance
type of option.

I'm afraid I can't offer you any specs, but my '67 98 cvt took up all of my 18'
dovetail, with a couple inches hanging over each end.  Fit between the wheel
wells just fine, though.  I'd estimate it at a hair over 18', and substantially
shorter than an F100 (height)  Probably comparible in width.  If I run across
any written specs this weekend, I'll send 'em.

- --
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The Oldsmobile Magnet ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Charley Buehner ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com ~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~ mailto:charley@rocketship.com ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~ http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Sidney, Montana ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
To remove yourself from this list, or for other
    Olds mailing list questions, click here:
 http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 13:02:28 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: How to get lifters out?

> > I wanna take the lifters
> > out, but they won't budge more than a third of the way out.
> > What's the secret to getting them out?

> Lifter puller; kind of a mini slide-hammer

I've also used vice grips, clamping on to the top 1/8 inch or so (No lower, as
that can corrupt important surfaces!  Gotta use care there.)  Not all of us 
have
access to lifter pullers, vice grips, on the other hand....  Here's the trick:
First, ya gotta be fightin' mad at them things (The adrenaline will give ~you~ 
a
couple extra foot pounds...)  Start by rotating the lifter a bit while yanking
up on it as hard as you can (you'll need to reclamp the vice grips once or 
twice
;)  When you get to your stuck part, take a small hammer and GENTLY tap on the
lifter (or vicegrip handle) to pop the lifter back INTO its bore.  A couple
taps, and it'll fall the rest of the way.  Repeat the process as often as
necessary.  Usually by the third or fouth time it comes out.  A clean engine
will require less.  My 425 Toro required about six.  The 425 Toro I used for
parts came out on the first try.  And landed on the ground behind me! (I just
needed the innards of the lifter anyway, so that didn't matter)  I was rightly
suprised, though...
- --
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The Oldsmobile Magnet ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Charley Buehner ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com ~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~ mailto:charley@rocketship.com ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~ http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Sidney, Montana ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
To remove yourself from this list, or for other
    Olds mailing list questions, click here:
 http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 13:09:51 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: 73 Toro parts available

Anyone need anything from it?  Just about anything behind the doors will be
available, I think.  Axle and Seat are spoken for, in front of the doors is
gone, essentially.  Anyone on the Toro list want to forward this there?  I
should be getting the car home within a week, hopefully.  Whatever I don't
take/sell will get dropped off at the local salvage lot for horse-trading
purposes :)  (I'd ~better~ at least get my fender out of it!  My '82 is pretty
close... :)

- --
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The Oldsmobile Magnet ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Charley Buehner ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com ~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~ mailto:charley@rocketship.com ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~ http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Sidney, Montana ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
To remove yourself from this list, or for other
    Olds mailing list questions, click here:
 http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 15:36:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: NEW SP ID info- destroy old copies please

Dang, you know how I hate misinformation....
Seems the plug welds on the tork converter have nothing to do with variable
vane stator... and the SP's were not offered thru '69, only thru '67... with
these corrections, here's the NEW IMPROVED...
- ----------------------
                   Scrounger's Guide to GM TH400
                 Switch Pitch Transmissions (v.1.2)
               by CBWitt, *the* Rocket Scientist 6/98

- ------------- How & Why the Switch Pitch Works -----------
   Oil pressure within the trans holds the stator blades in the
converter at a low angle for more efficient coupling. With a high
angle, the stator blades offer a greater oil redirection, increased
tork multiplication, increased engine speed, maximum performance, and
less tendency to creep at idle. This higher angle is achieved by
bleeding off the pressure that held the low angle, by applying a 12V
signal to the stator control solenoid, located on the back of the pump.
This electrical signal is fed into the trans thru the connector on the
left side, along with the power for the kickdown solenoid. The two form
a €T€, with the stator control terminal being the top of the T and the
kickdown being the upright.

              Stator   |--   Detent

To summarize:
   Apply 12V ==> hi angle, high performance
   No signal ==> low angle, better economy

   In the 1965 Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual, it is stated that
switches on the throttle linkage supply the signal for high angle at
idle, and at throttle openings greater than 40 degrees. With this
setup, the TH400 offers a 1st gear multiplication ratio of 2.5 via the
gears, and 2 via the converter, for an overall 1st gear ratio of 5.0:1.
Second and 3rd gears are 1.5:1 and 1.0:1, and are also subject to
additional tork multiplication from the tork converter. Reverse gear
ratio is 2.0 mechanical * 2 from the converter, for an overall ratio of
4.0:1.

- ------- Where to find a Switch Pitch trans or converter ----------

   Many GM large cars (Buick, Olds, Pontiac, Cadillac) and intermediate
cars with the V8 used a Variable Stator trans 1965 thru 1967; all such
TH400's & Jetaways share the same bellhouse bolt pattern except Chevy.
Unfortunately, most TH400's were in big cars, and are the long-shaft version,
with a tailshaft about a foot long. Luckily, these transes are "easily"
[to a trans repairman] converted to an A-body-friendly short shaft
trans by simply swapping the output shaft & rear housing, which can
even be donated from a Chevy short-shaft trans.
   Due to a one-year-only, hard to find filter configuration, the 1965
TH400's are slightly less desirable than later versions, though they
will certainly work just as well.
   The 2-speed Jetaway trans used behind the V8 [not the L6] in the
1965-67 models also utilized an SP tork converter- these may make good
and fairly  plentiful converter donors. The matching fit has not been
checked yet, but chances are very good that they will interchange.
Previous version of this guide indicated that Jetaways up to 1969?
might have had the variable pitch system- however, according to the
1968 Chassis Manual, that feature was no longer available on the
Oldsmobile TH400 or the Jetaway after 1967.


- ----How To Identify a SP trans or Converter by Examination----

   The trans is very easy. Look for TWO electrical terminals in the LH
side connector. This is not a *guarantee* that the trans is SP, as
later units used a wire from the trans to help control spark advance.
However, if there are 2 electrical feeds, and the year of the trans is
'65 thru '67 [see tag on RH side], then it almost surely indicates an
SP trans.

   To be certain, simply examine the trans input shaft. You will see a
smaller 1.0" fine-splined shaft protruding furthest. This is the same
for both types. You want to examine the larger 1.5" or so coarsely
splined protrusion that surrounds the 1" shaft. The difference here is
obvious.
   This is the key: the SP trans has a *short* splined section, 1.40"
diameter by dial calipers, about *1/2"* long, behind which is a *very
smooth* section of shaft, slightly *larger* in diameter [1.43" by
calipers], and about 1-1/4" long, with a 0.160" oil feed hole in the
bottom. Behind that, the shaft necks down to about 1.270" diameter for
some 3/4" and after that enters the trans.
   In contrast, the standard constant-angle stator transmissions have
similar shaped splines on that larger input shaft, but these splines
are much longer, about 1-1/8" along the shaft, and behind the splines,
the shaft is SMALLER in diameter [1.270" or so] and NOT finely machined.

- --------How To Identify a SP Converter by Examination-------

In making this guide, an SP converter from a 1965 "OA" code Switch
Pitch trans, and "normal" converters from an early 1970's TH350 & one
from, though not necessarily original to, a 1968 "OW" TH400 non-SP
trans were examined.
   On the back side of both TH400 converters, near the shaft that goes
into the trans, about 2" from the converter's snout, were seven plug
welds about 1/2" diameter. The TH350 converter did not have these
welds. A previous version of this guide indicated these welds might be
a clue as to whether the converter is SP or not, but it now looks like
more of an indication as to whether the converter is TH400 vs. TH350
caliber.

   The best SP ID tip involves looking down into the converter. You
should remove most of the oil from it in order to see the details.
This is easily done by vacuum pump or siphoning with a small hose
[1/4" or so] overnight. Matching the trans shaft, of course, farthest
down in will be the splined hole for the 1" trans shaft. Above that
will be the more coarsely splined section which mates with the trans's
larger shaft.
   KEY: in the SP converter, there will be virtually NO GAP between
these two splined sections, with the larger coarsely splined hole,
about 1" long [deep?], beginning at a depth of about 3-7/8" down from
the edge of the converter snout.

   With the standard converter, there *is* a gap of about 1" between
the smaller fine-splined section and larger coarsely splined section.
[Aside: Into this gap, you can guide a stiff 1/4" hose to reach even
more oil when siphoning the oil from these units.] While this unit
also has a coarsely splined hole depth of about 1", these splines
start about 2-7/8" down from the edge of the converter snout, some 1"
higher than the SP converter.

You are now an Expert at identifying SP transes & tork converters
while perusuing the piles at the scrap metal dealers.
- ------------------------------------------------RS-----------------
- --
Chris Witt  *the* Rocket Scientist
1968 442 convertible, originally & to be again W30, et. al
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 16:20:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Broken Valve Spring

After much hunting I have found that #7 intake valve spring is broken..
sob.. Anyone have a recommendation for a non-Mondello replacement set.. I
need about 120lbs closed and 325 open pressure with a .525 lift. Thanks in
advance

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.infinet.com/~avar



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 16:28:25 -0400
From: "Robert Handren" <rhandren@gate.net>
Subject: Switch Pitch ID Tips [long]

Just read CW's post on the TH-400 trans id.

Could only find a couple things I think may be very slight errors.

To the best of my knowledge, switch-pitch TH-400 came only in Cad, Olds and
Buick. Not Pontiac but I could be wrong.

The "early" hard to find filter was actually used through 67.  They're out
there. When I find 'em I buy 'em.

Bob Handren

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 16:56:25 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@viperlink.net>
Subject: Re: Bench to Buckets..  78-88 G-Body.

Jason Adcock wrote:

> >These seats are the 60% on the pass side...  Making the driver's seat
> >the 40.

> Hmm.  I had never seen that before.  I've always seen the driver's side
> with 60%.  That-a-way, the driver always has the center armrest positioned
> right next to him or her, regardless of where the passenger seat is
> positioned.
>
> Guess they ~did~ change it...

My 78 was with the arm rest on the pass side split bench, got some seats
in a buddie's Regal that the armrest is on the pass side too...
Hmmm...  I never saw it with the armrest on my side until the 90's.  I
guess it's all a learning experience, eh?

- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 16:57:46 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@viperlink.net>
Subject: Re: body work or work over

Surmise@aol.com wrote:

> Question:  1 What is a skin and what does that mean for my car?   2 Does
> anybody have a source for high quality sheetmetal?

I think it's body shop talk for a 1/4 Panel...  I know shops do it to
replace doors, instead of the whole door, they replace the metal.

- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 17:51:37 -0400
From: "-DLM-" <dmengel@nb.net>
Subject: 455 toro motor

started pulling the motor out of the 69 toro this week,FINNALY! .got a
chance to id block and heads.correct id on block but heads puzzle me .They
are GA heads  A being the little a for hardened valve seats.this makes no
sense to me.Did gm dealerships replace heads when unleaded gas came out?
for people to use unleaded gas   hmmmmmm...maybe someone was into the motor
before me!  P.S is anybody in the Pittsburgh area going to parts-a-rama
next weekend?

- -DLM-
69 toro (parts for sale)
86 442 (big block coming soon!)
94 bonnie(daily driver)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 19:08:00 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: NEW Switch Pitch ID info

This bounced due to header line problems; forwarding for the benefit of
those on the real-time list who haven't seen it yet.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Subject: NEW SP ID info- destroy old copies please
From:	"Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>

Dang, you know how I hate misinformation....
Seems the plug welds on the tork converter have nothing to do with variable
vane stator... and the SP's were not offered thru '69, only thru '67... with
these corrections, here's the NEW IMPROVED...
- ----------------------
                   Scrounger's Guide to GM TH400
                 Switch Pitch Transmissions (v.1.2)
               by CBWitt, *the* Rocket Scientist 6/98

- ------------- How & Why the Switch Pitch Works -----------
   Oil pressure within the trans holds the stator blades in the
converter at a low angle for more efficient coupling. With a high
angle, the stator blades offer a greater oil redirection, increased
tork multiplication, increased engine speed, maximum performance, and
less tendency to creep at idle. This higher angle is achieved by
bleeding off the pressure that held the low angle, by applying a 12V
signal to the stator control solenoid, located on the back of the pump.
This electrical signal is fed into the trans thru the connector on the
left side, along with the power for the kickdown solenoid. The two form
a €T€, with the stator control terminal being the top of the T and the
kickdown being the upright.

              Stator   |--   Detent

To summarize:
   Apply 12V ==> hi angle, high performance
   No signal ==> low angle, better economy

   In the 1965 Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual, it is stated that
switches on the throttle linkage supply the signal for high angle at
idle, and at throttle openings greater than 40 degrees. With this
setup, the TH400 offers a 1st gear multiplication ratio of 2.5 via the
gears, and 2 via the converter, for an overall 1st gear ratio of 5.0:1.
Second and 3rd gears are 1.5:1 and 1.0:1, and are also subject to
additional tork multiplication from the tork converter. Reverse gear
ratio is 2.0 mechanical * 2 from the converter, for an overall ratio of
4.0:1.

- ------- Where to find a Switch Pitch trans or converter ----------

   Many GM large cars (Buick, Olds, Pontiac, Cadillac) and intermediate
cars with the V8 used a Variable Stator trans 1965 thru 1967; all such
TH400's & Jetaways share the same bellhouse bolt pattern except Chevy.
Unfortunately, most TH400's were in big cars, and are the long-shaft version,
with a tailshaft about a foot long. Luckily, these transes are "easily"
[to a trans repairman] converted to an A-body-friendly short shaft
trans by simply swapping the output shaft & rear housing, which can
even be donated from a Chevy short-shaft trans.
   Due to a one-year-only, hard to find filter configuration, the 1965
TH400's are slightly less desirable than later versions, though they
will certainly work just as well.
   The 2-speed Jetaway trans used behind the V8 [not the L6] in the
1965-67 models also utilized an SP tork converter- these may make good
and fairly  plentiful converter donors. The matching fit has not been
checked yet, but chances are very good that they will interchange.
Previous version of this guide indicated that Jetaways up to 1969?
might have had the variable pitch system- however, according to the
1968 Chassis Manual, that feature was no longer available on the
Oldsmobile TH400 or the Jetaway after 1967.


- ----How To Identify a SP trans or Converter by Examination----

   The trans is very easy. Look for TWO electrical terminals in the LH
side connector. This is not a *guarantee* that the trans is SP, as
later units used a wire from the trans to help control spark advance.
However, if there are 2 electrical feeds, and the year of the trans is
'65 thru '67 [see tag on RH side], then it almost surely indicates an
SP trans.

   To be certain, simply examine the trans input shaft. You will see a
smaller 1.0" fine-splined shaft protruding furthest. This is the same
for both types. You want to examine the larger 1.5" or so coarsely
splined protrusion that surrounds the 1" shaft. The difference here is
obvious.
   This is the key: the SP trans has a *short* splined section, 1.40"
diameter by dial calipers, about *1/2"* long, behind which is a *very
smooth* section of shaft, slightly *larger* in diameter [1.43" by
calipers], and about 1-1/4" long, with a 0.160" oil feed hole in the
bottom. Behind that, the shaft necks down to about 1.270" diameter for
some 3/4" and after that enters the trans.
   In contrast, the standard constant-angle stator transmissions have
similar shaped splines on that larger input shaft, but these splines
are much longer, about 1-1/8" along the shaft, and behind the splines,
the shaft is SMALLER in diameter [1.270" or so] and NOT finely machined.

- --------How To Identify a SP Converter by Examination-------

In making this guide, an SP converter from a 1965 "OA" code Switch
Pitch trans, and "normal" converters from an early 1970's TH350 & one
from, though not necessarily original to, a 1968 "OW" TH400 non-SP
trans were examined.
   On the back side of both TH400 converters, near the shaft that goes
into the trans, about 2" from the converter's snout, were seven plug
welds about 1/2" diameter. The TH350 converter did not have these
welds. A previous version of this guide indicated these welds might be
a clue as to whether the converter is SP or not, but it now looks like
more of an indication as to whether the converter is TH400 vs. TH350
caliber.

   The best SP ID tip involves looking down into the converter. You
should remove most of the oil from it in order to see the details.
This is easily done by vacuum pump or siphoning with a small hose
[1/4" or so] overnight. Matching the trans shaft, of course, farthest
down in will be the splined hole for the 1" trans shaft. Above that
will be the more coarsely splined section which mates with the trans's
larger shaft.
   KEY: in the SP converter, there will be virtually NO GAP between
these two splined sections, with the larger coarsely splined hole,
about 1" long [deep?], beginning at a depth of about 3-7/8" down from
the edge of the converter snout.

   With the standard converter, there *is* a gap of about 1" between
the smaller fine-splined section and larger coarsely splined section.
[Aside: Into this gap, you can guide a stiff 1/4" hose to reach even
more oil when siphoning the oil from these units.] While this unit
also has a coarsely splined hole depth of about 1", these splines
start about 2-7/8" down from the edge of the converter snout, some 1"
higher than the SP converter.

You are now an Expert at identifying SP transes & tork converters
while perusuing the piles at the scrap metal dealers.
- ------------------------------------------------RS-----------------
- --
Chris Witt  *the* Rocket Scientist
1968 442 convertible, originally & to be again W30, et. al
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 17:27:18 -0500
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: Attn:  OCA Members

Hi folks,
             I have a question for the Olds Club of America members:
have you received your June issue of "Journey with Olds" ?  I got my May
issue during the last week of April, but here it is June 13th, and still
no June issue.  (First class mail option...)  I tried calling the
voice-mail number last Tuesday, but the tape on the answering machine
was full.  Tried faxing them the next day - still no response.  Can
anyone tell me how to get a replacement copy if my original copy has
been lost by the Pony Express?  (I know SOME people have theirs, because
I've received a few orders from an ad I had placed.)  If anyone can shed
some light on how to get a copy, PLEASE e-mail me privately to keep list
traffic down.

Thanks,

Doug Newman         OCA # 30311         newmand@wcbi.com
Columbus, MS
1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html
http://www.442.com/newmantape.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 18:20:25 -0400
From: dave <dave70ss@ici.net>
Subject: newman ave show

too bad the bad rain storm cancelled the show
will you rescheduling it?
I was looking forward to see some nice olds

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 18:26:10 -0400
From: dave <dave70ss@ici.net>
Subject: newman ave olds show

too bad the bad rain storm cancelled the show
will you be rescheduling it?
I was looking forward to see some nice olds

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 18:51:56 -0400
From: super442@mindspring.com
Subject: semi-Olds related with parts to boot

Hello everybody,
               This is only semi Olds related.Do we have any one out there
that is a complete computer genius?On several Olds sites,and others there
is a gif of a little Black G-body doing a burnout.I know it's really a
B**ck ,but it's small enough to work.Does anybody know how to convert this
thing to a desktop icon?
 If so,would you contact me direct.
         Back to the regular stuff,have several parts for 81-88
                               Interior:
                                              T-top trim panels,Interior
panels
                              Body:        Rear quarters,header panel for
87-88,Factory T-tops w/ keys
anything else please inquire direct
                      Thanks,John

mailto:super442@mindspring.com
John McJunkin
1985 Cutlass------T-tops--307 H.O./3.73
1984 Cutlass------Moonroof--307
1982 Cutlass Cruiser wagon(G-body)--soon to be 403!!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 19:10:17 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Doug's cam bank angle question

In a message dated 98-06-13 10:41:09 EDT, you write:

<<          I messed up. >>

So long as I can finally get this block/head/cam angle thing straight, not a
problem.

<<   The "A" block is the 65 only 425 block, the "B" block
 is the 65 400 for the 442. There were no "C" blocks made. The "D" block were
 the 66-67 425's, both the 39 and 45 degrees used the same letter. Then came
 the "E" block 400 for the 66-67 442's.>>

OK
So, to summarize;

1965 Big blocks
"A" = 425cid, 45 degree cam bank angle
"B" = 400cid, 39 degree cam bank angle (because these got big valve heads,
right?)

1966 & 1967 big blocks
"D" = 425cid and ____ degree cam bank angle
"E" = 400cid and 39 degree cam bank angle (per Jim Chermac)

Now for the tricky part.

Were the "D" blocks 45 or 39 degrees?

Previously, Chris Brown Witt shot me (with) a message about a "D" block he
found with a 45 degree cam bank angle.

Dr. Barry said;

<<  For the 425's, if it had the big lifter (.921"), it had the 39' bank;
these
were the Toronado and the Starfire engines (i.e. the high-performance
425's). If it had the .842" lifters, it was the 45' lifter bank block.>>

Now this is a problem, Toros and Starfires were 425's. So they had to be "A"
or "D" blocks.
Could these blocks be 39 degrees while others were 45?

Karl is even more confused.



Karl Aune
and Soylent Ocean Mist
1965 Dynamic 88 Celebrity Sedan
Members; IVOC and OCA (#029458)
Chicago, IL

KarlAune@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

KarlAune is a trademark of World Domination Ltd., a subsidiary of Microsoft

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 19:30:08 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Parts Sources [was Re: 425 performance parts]

In a message, you write:

<< I have a 67 Toro with the stock 425 and tranny. I'm curious on whether
there
 are any performance enhancing parts available for that engine, >>

   {a rather unsightly melee complete with edged weapons, and then...}

<< PS I found new front wheel bearings for $150.00. that's half the price the
 first place I found them.
 Darren
 67 Toronado Deluxe>>

Darren.

You need more parts sources period.

My Kanter catalogue lists the front wheel seal for $25 each (specify 2.4" or
3.4" diameter) and the inner front wheel bearings as *** $10 ***  each.
Order a catalogue at www.kanter.com.

Years ago I did not know that these repro houses existed. Since that time I
have been steadily accumulating catalogues from parts sources (e.g. my posting
a few days ago about National Auto Lines). As long as I can restore the body
of my vehicle (a job that can never be overestimated), I have enough sources
making enough parts that I could replace virtually any drivetrain, brake
system, or suspention part if I need to.

And sometimes I do need to.

The ESSENTIAL NOS and reproduction houses are Fusick's, Kanter (my favorite),
USA Parts Supply, and Brothers. For performance parts, Joe Mondello, Dick
Miller, and maybe Dave Smith Engineering (did I get the name right??). There
are others to whom I am doing injustice but I invite other listmembers to
illuminate me privately on sources I do not mention.

Honorable mention should be made of the GM Restoration Parts catalogue (which
I do not have so I do not know if it is any good to Oldsmobilers) and the GM
Performance Parts catalogue. I do have a copy of the last and declare it to be
a complete waste of time unless you are into drag racing and can shell out for
the monstrous Oldsmobile DRCE engine. Or you have a late model Calai, there is
a differential for late model 5-speed transaxles...........

Sigh.
Anything GM knew about musclecars was forgotten in the late 1970's.



Karl Aune
and Soylent Ocean Mist
1965 Dynamic 88 Celebrity Sedan
Members; IVOC and OCA (#029458)
Chicago, IL

KarlAune@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

KarlAune is a trademark of World Domination Ltd., a subsidiary of Microsoft

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 19:54:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 455 toro motor

At 05:51 PM 6/13/98 -0400, you wrote:
>started pulling the motor out of the 69 toro this week,FINNALY! .got a
>chance to id block and heads.correct id on block but heads puzzle me .They
>are GA heads  A being the little a for hardened valve seats.this makes no
>sense to me.Did gm dealerships replace heads when unleaded gas came out?

Not as a policy, but if there was ever a valve-job done on the car, it's
possible that the heads were done on an exchange basis. Or the motor could
have been swapped; what's the VIN derivative on the machined pad just below
the deck near the #1 cylinder?

>for people to use unleaded gas   hmmmmmm...maybe someone was into the motor
>before me!  P.S is anybody in the Pittsburgh area going to parts-a-rama
>next weekend?
>
>-DLM-
>69 toro (parts for sale)

e-mail me directly about those '69 Toro parts; I've got one, and need a few
things.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 20:00:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Doug's cam bank angle question

At 07:10 PM 6/13/98 EDT, you wrote:
>OK
>So, to summarize;
>
>1965 Big blocks
>"A" = 425cid, 45 degree cam bank angle
>"B" = 400cid, 39 degree cam bank angle (because these got big valve heads,
>right?)

Nope, the '65 400's had the 2.00" intakes

>1966 & 1967 big blocks
>"D" = 425cid and ____ degree cam bank angle

Both 39' and 45'; the 39' blocks had a drill spot near the casting number

>"E" = 400cid and 39 degree cam bank angle (per Jim Chermac)
>
>Now for the tricky part.
>
>Were the "D" blocks 45 or 39 degrees?

Yes... ;)

>Previously, Chris Brown Witt shot me (with) a message about a "D" block he
>found with a 45 degree cam bank angle.

Did you look up the FAQ on this one? I'm sure the info on the drill spot is
in there.

>Dr. Barry said;
>
><<  For the 425's, if it had the big lifter (.921"), it had the 39' bank;
>these
>were the Toronado and the Starfire engines (i.e. the high-performance
>425's). If it had the .842" lifters, it was the 45' lifter bank block.>>
>
>Now this is a problem, Toros and Starfires were 425's. So they had to be "A"
>or "D" blocks.

No A-blocks for Toros; they weren't in production until the 1966 model year.
Don't know about those '65 Starfires (and, I assume, Jetstar I's).

>Could these blocks be 39 degrees while others were 45?

Yup; think they even had the same casting number.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 19:32:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: 461 C-3 Cadillac questions  (LONG)

My '88 Cadillac Brougham now has a 455 bored 0.030" over, with an
Edelbrock camshaft, 2.072" intake valves, mildly ported "J" heads, and
about 9.3:1 compression.  Most of the 307 stuff was transferred over,
including the exhaust manifolds, E4MC Q-jet, EST distributor,
SD-200 starter motor (small body) and positive backpressure EGR valve.

The engine fits very well in this "full-size" chassis.  The stock 307
engine mounts were retained; as discussed recently, the water pump and
therefore cooling fan do indeed stay at the same location with respect to
the shroud.  Since bigblocks never came with an R-4 A/C compressor, the
water pump bracket had to be cut and lengthened.  On the other side, the
alternator bracket needed about 1" of spacers to reach the power steering
brace.  Both the A/C and alternator belts are stock 307 plus 5 cm in
length.  I think 1 more centimetre would make things a bit easier.
Overall, the stock 307 calibration works well with this engine.  There is
a bit of spark knock at one particular (light) throttle opening and engine
RPM, but the ESC (knock sensor, '88-'90) system accommodates this with 6-9
degrees of knock retard, as reported by Diacom.  Timing is set at 20
degrees BTDC; ~26 seems to work OK, but hot cranking performance
suffers, manifested by a momentary pause after the first rotation.  It is
interesting to note that the computer's spark table simulates a ported
manifold vacuum source for the distributor advance.  Coolant temperature
stays in the 190-200 F range (180 F thermostat) using the stock clutched 7
blade fan and heavy duty 3-row 31" core radiator.

My main problem is achieving a stable idle.  I originally thought the
camshaft was sufficiently mild (I/E, 214/224 degrees @ 0.050") for this
size of engine.  It idles relatively smoothly (not as smooth as stock)
while in open loop, but once the oxygen sensor readings come into play, it
appears that 14.7:1 isn't appropriate for a stable idle (in park) at less
than 1000 RPM.  This translates to about 750 RPM in gear (1400 stall
converter), with an oscillatory fluctuation +/- 25 RPM.  Idle vacuum is
about 16 inches at ~700 RPM, climbing to 21 inches at 1100 RPM.  What
is normal (idle speed, vacuum readings) for this engine/camshaft
combination?

Another concern is a leaning condition in the 4000+ range.  This doesn't
seem to occur in 1st gear, but happens in 2nd and especially 3rd according
to oxygen sensor readings.  In the 3000 RPM range, voltage is over
900 mV but drops to 830-860 mV at the upper end.  Changing to dramatically
richer secondary metering rods (DG) results in only a 20 mV change.  At
first, I hypothesized that exhaust backpressure was diluting the mixture,
but now with a true dual exhaust system replacing the stock single, the
condition persists.  Would I be correct in assuming that there's a fuel
delivery problem to the carburetor, causing a transient low fuel level
condition?  Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 20:29:41 -0400
From: Mike Hall <oldsmike@flash.net>
Subject: Rallye Graphics...

OldsNuts,

I have a Oldsmobile Street Rocket member who is in need of the FULL
graphics package for a Rallye 350. He has found a partial set with
everything except the rear quarter graphics (Rallye 350). It seems that
he has the cash to buy right now. Please E-Mail me directly if anyone has
a lead.

Thanks,
Mike


Michael R. Hall, OCA #17903                       Ortonville, Michigan
E-Mail: oldsmike@flash.net
My Oldsmobile Stable:
56' Starfire? : 72' Cutlass S : 87' Custom Cruiser: 98' Silhouette GLS

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 17:37:01 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Doug's cam bank angle question

> >1965 Big blocks
> >"A" = 425cid, 45 degree cam bank angle
> >"B" = 400cid, 39 degree cam bank angle (because these got big valve heads,
> >right?)
>
> >Nope, the '65 400's had the 2.00"
> intakes_____________________________________________

For the sake of accuracy,
1965 4-4-2 400's (#389298 B) blocks are 45 deg. cam angle. And use .842"
lifters.

Hope this helps

Greg Rollin.        supercars@transport.com
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 20:47:08 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Doug's cam bank angle question

In a message dated 98-06-13 20:04:39 EDT, you write:

<< Both 39' and 45'; the 39' blocks had a drill spot near the casting number
>>

One last question.
How deep is a drill spot?

Is it a hole or a shallow conical indentation?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 21:00:51 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Bench Testing

Hello.

Quick Q.

When the chassis manual instructs "bench testing" without providing more
specific information, does that always mean to connect the component in
question directly to a car battery for diagnosis?

I am going to have to fabricate special wiring to do this so that I will get
adequate current flow to the part.

Hmmmmm. Karl need wires, terminal clamps, electrical terminals, soldering
iron...

Eeeeeeyow!

OK! Its hot enough!



Karl Aune
and Soylent Ocean Mist
1965 Dynamic 88 Celebrity Sedan
Members; IVOC and OCA (#029458)
Chicago, IL

KarlAune@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

KarlAune is a trademark of World Domination Ltd., a subsidiary of Microsoft

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 21:35:09 EDT
From: <Mikeytvb@aol.com>
Subject: web page

i just put this page on the web.  just look at it.
 <A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Canopy/4535/Mondello.html">
Mondello's 455 Rocket</A>

mikey tvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 21:58:54 EDT
From: <MFATZII@aol.com>
Subject: Holley ID and Junk Day

Went to an 80 acre junk yard (remember one man's junk is another man's
treasure)   any way I found some stuff I was looking for
1- dual scoop air cleaner (oil bath for a 55 olds)
2- the 88 rocket emblem for the "Super" series cars (trunk)
3- excellent shape valve covers
4- misc. door fasteners, and window crank springs
bla bla bla.......
They also had several 77 cutli.  88's, 98's....nuthin too collectable.....

When it started to get real dark real fast and started to rain, we left, but
on the way out I found a Holley carb and snagged it too.  Everything was
free.....I graduated high school with a really good friend who's dad own this
particular yard.  So Sunday afternoon when nobody is around...............

Finally here's the question.....I've been thinking of putting an adapter plate
on the 56 to go to a newer carb (Holley, Edelbroch, AFB, Carter.....) This
particular carb has been kept dry but I can tell it needs rebuilding, Can
anybody identify it from the list?  most of the numbers on it are patent
numbers but I found these numbers  also (List-1850-2) then under that number
(3393)  what I want to know is if it worth anything , worth rebuilding, maybe
the year, and especially the cfm.

Ryan
Lincoln, Ne

56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project rocket)
<A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click here</A>
85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham

89 Beretta
81 Kawasaki LTD

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 22:00:44 EDT
From: <MFATZII@aol.com>
Subject: anybody know?

does anybody have any idea where Trevor Lee aka Screech   (Lee@mergetel.com)
is at ?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 22:08:03 -0400
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@mail.cvn.net>
Subject: Problem with Wipers on 85 Cutlass

swickka@cvn.net

Just saw problem with wipers ... similar to mine.

I have an 85 Cutlass Supreme.
When I turn on the wipers, the left one
comes 3/4 onto drives side ... no problem.
I can adjust that ... BUT ... the driver's
wiper only cycles through a six inch arch.

I can't find an adjustment on the arms for the
dricer side wiper. Is there one? If not ... what's
the problem and what's the fix?

Ken Swick

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 22:14:37 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Bench Testing

>Hello.
>
>Quick Q.
>
>When the chassis manual instructs "bench testing" without providing more
>specific information, does that always mean to connect the component in
>question directly to a car battery for diagnosis?


It's just a generic term for off-vehicle diagnostics. Usually ohmmeter tests
and stuff like that precede power-on checks. What component you looking to
toast, ...er....test?

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 22:13:13 EDT
From: <ANTIQOLDS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: newman ave olds show

In a message dated 98-06-13 18:30:44 EDT, you write:

<<
 too bad the bad rain storm cancelled the show
 will you be rescheduling it?
 I was looking forward to see some nice olds
  >>
  If you are refering to the one in Rumford it was only a car corral & swap
meet, it was a wash out on the most part but I made out like a bandit because
my warehouse was right next door.
  We may have another one this fall.

Everett   OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

E & G Automotive
9 Newman Ave
Rumford, R.I. 02916
1-401-435-7139

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 02:19:29 +0000
From: clarence wirtz <cw63nova@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Holley ID and Junk Day

A
>Finally here's the question.....I've been thinking of putting an adapter plate
>on the 56 to go to a newer carb (Holley, Edelbroch, AFB, Carter.....) This
>particular carb has been kept dry but I can tell it needs rebuilding, Can
>anybody identify it from the list?  most of the numbers on it are patent
>numbers but I found these numbers  also (List-1850-2) then under that number
>(3393)  what I want to know is if it worth anything , worth rebuilding, maybe
>the year, and especially the cfm.


If I rember Holley carbs correctly, it is a 600 cfm vac secondary, square
flange(non spread bore design). as far as the year I dont know.  It is a
good carb for smaller cube engines.

Hope that helps.
Clarence
86 Cutlass 4DR 307 O/D 2.56's
San Antonio

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 20:20:53 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: 73 Toro parts available

Addendum:

  Axle and Seat are spoken for, in front of the doors is
> gone, essentially.

Doors are shot (fenders crammed into 'em) Everthing behind still OK.  Came to
the realization that I already ~have~ one of these cars.  Just didn't recognize
the front end!  (You'd understand if you saw it!  I'll post a link to pictures
when I get 'em)  Car's white, black interior.  Got the fancy metal (gold
colorred) emblems on the door pulls, and rear seat area.  Little emblems in em
everywhere.  Brushed aluminum (gold tinted) dash overlays, really nice car in
its day.  Too many times I found myself saying: "I can fix this, I've got the
parts for it..."  To which I kept saying  "NO!!!"
Anyway, I've got it home now.  On 4 tires and everything.  Used a buddy's
pickup.  He borrowed the trailer, so we just grabbed the Toro when he brought 
it
back.  Worked out slick.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The Oldsmobile Magnet ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Charley Buehner ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com ~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~ mailto:charley@rocketship.com ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~ http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Sidney, Montana ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
To remove yourself from this list, or for other
    Olds mailing list questions, click here:
 http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 22:21:56 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Holley ID

In a message dated 98-06-13 22:06:57 EDT, you write:

<< I found these numbers  also (List-1850-2) ......I want to know is if it
worth anything , worth rebuilding, maybe the year, and especially the cfm.  >>


That is Holley model number 0-1850-2.

I have number 0-1850-3.

This is a 600cfm carb. I once found an application in a big Chiltons book for
1964 or so cars. Maybe Corvettes. Do not know.

Any carb is worth rebuilding (if you can use them). Realize that in addition
to the rebuild kit ($20), in order to "dial it in" to your application, you
will need (for vacc secondaries) a spring kit, a main jet kit (2 each jets
66-99, but more expensive to buy jets individually), perhaps a few different
sized nozzles, a fuel pump cam kit, maybe some different power valves, perhaps
an electric choke.......you get the idea.

The 1850 differs from later models in that it lacks a secondary metering plate
(just has gasket material to seal the metering block), a metering body vent
baffle, and perhaps some other innovations. These are the things in the
rebuild kit diagram that are not on your carb. They use the same diagram for
many models.

I have mine rebuilt, I just need a replacement vacc diaphragm, an electric
choke, a jet kit, a cam kit.....

And so it goes.

For further questions, contact Holley directly at www.holley.com.

BTW they have a nice technical info section.



Karl Aune
and Soylent Ocean Mist
1965 Dynamic 88 Celebrity Sedan
Members; IVOC and OCA (#029458)
Chicago, IL

KarlAune@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

KarlAune is a trademark of World Domination Ltd., a subsidiary of Microsoft

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 20:23:54 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: anybody know?

> does anybody have any idea where Trevor Lee aka Screech   (Lee@mergetel.com)
is at ?

Maybe his chevy wouldn't start, leaving him stranded somewhere!



(If he's around, and just hiding, ~that~ ought to bring him out! :)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The Oldsmobile Magnet ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Charley Buehner ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com ~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~ mailto:charley@rocketship.com ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~ http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Sidney, Montana ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
To remove yourself from this list, or for other
    Olds mailing list questions, click here:
 http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 21:45:20 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: olds in new movie "dirty work"

Just saw the movie "dirty work", very funny.  Anyway, looks like a '71
red cutlass convertible in pretty rough shape, but it gets a lot of
screen time.  Just thought y'all might want to know.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 22:36:21 -0400
From: "Jeanne Laroche" <jlaroche@together.net>
Subject: Re: So. Wisc. yards (long)

Any chance you might come across a gas pedal for a 56 Olds 4 Door Sedan?
e-mail me at jlaroche@together.net

- ----------
> From: Robert F. Newbegin Jr. <senator@itis.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: So. Wisc. yards (long)
> Date: Friday, June 12, 1998 11:59 PM
>
> Well, I finally got to go to a REAL junkyard today.  This was my first
trip
> to a pick-your-own part yard.  Schmidt's Auto Salvage in Middleton
(e-mail
> me personally for directions) has what appears to be 30-40 Oldsmobiles
> (pre-'88).  I saw one '74 (don't know what model, all ornamentation was
> gone except an S on the inside of the doors) that must have been pretty
> sporty at some point.  Many '78-'87 Cutlasses, many Deltas.  Couple
wagons,
> nothing too old.
>
> Anyhow, I got the trim piece I needed and can get more trim stuff for
> people if it is terribly necessary [I'll ship for cost of part +shipping
> +gas (my '78 CS gets 10 mpg) ]
>
> There were a few engines (350 cid or less), but I didn't look to closely.
> Quite a few good gauge clusters (round speedos and rectangular).
>
> Bob
> '78 CS
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 22:51:24 EDT
From: <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Rallye Graphics...

The "Rallye350" decals can be purchased from the Paddock for $10.00, or from
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/parts.html">Tamraz</A> for the same
price. Where did you friend come across the Rallye 350 decal set?

Jim McKeague
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html">
http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html</A>


OldsNuts,

 I have a Oldsmobile Street Rocket member who is in need of the FULL
 graphics package for a Rallye 350. He has found a partial set with
 everything except the rear quarter graphics (Rallye 350). It seems that
 he has the cash to buy right now. Please E-Mail me directly if anyone has
 a lead.

 Thanks,
 Mike

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 23:03:25 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Bench Testing

In a message dated 98-06-13 22:17:20 EDT, you write:

<< It's just a generic term for off-vehicle diagnostics. >>


OK.

But Bench-testing a starter is applying battery current, right?

I was having difficulty blowing my own horn....

(lets not have humorous replies now.....)

And was attempting to find whether it was the horn, horn relay, or possibly a
ground problem.

My Chassis Manual says to bench test the horn. No other specifics.

So....apply 12 volts, right?

<<< Usually ohmmeter tests and stuff like that precede power-on checks. >>>

Yah. Took the tester out to the car and got mixed results. On to bench
testing.

I guess it is a horn relay or ground problem. Due to intermittent current flow
through hand-held wires it took a while to get adequate voltage to the horn.
And when I could get on my feet again I knew that there was nothing wrong with
the horn.  =8-O

And thus I need a bench testing battery cables, so I get current when I want
it.

But again, bench testing is directly to battery if no other specs?


Karl Aune
and Soylent Ocean Mist
1965 Dynamic 88 Celebrity Sedan
Members; IVOC and OCA (#029458)
Chicago, IL

KarlAune@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

KarlAune is a trademark of World Domination Ltd., a subsidiary of Microsoft

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Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 20:11:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: [none]

subscribe oldsmobile-digest

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Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 23:11:42 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Fwd: parts classifieds for autos & motorcycles

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Listmembers,

Anyone else get one of these?  Comments, good or otherwise?  Please let me
know.

Thanks,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

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Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 02:43:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: parts classifieds for autos & motorcycles
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DISCLAIMER:  This is a one-time only announcement, your email address will not
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Dear Fellow Enthusiast,

This is the Grand Opening Announcement of PartFinder's Virtual Swapmeet at our
brand new
website - http://WWW.PARTFINDER.COM.  The Virtual Swapmeet offers FREE
classified ads to
all enthusiasts such as you.  PartFinder also has a wide selection of
automotive and motorcycle
books, literature and restoration guides available at our Motorbook Store.
Please stop by and check
out our site today. Thank You.


PartFinder




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Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 23:07:39 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Doug's cam bank angle question

Karl,

I'll be looking up the link you mentioned later this evening.  The topic of
camshafts will be well-recieved here, as this is something I'll have to be
dealing with later this season (when Grace is done).

My question is:

Is it easy to tell the lifter bank of a particular engine once the intake is
off, does the difference show to the naked eye?  What I have here is 1) the
original 455 out of my '70 Supreme, 2) a 400 of '68 vintage, and 3) a 425 out
of a 66 or 67 Toronado (not sure of year) that I rescued from the crusher. #'s
1 & 2 are totally disassembled and # 3 has the intake off.  If I look at their
lifter galleries will I be able to see the difference?  I realise we are
talking about six degrees, but did they do anything else that would make the
difference noticeable?

I'll close for now, and let some of the knowlegeable listmembers comment on
this.

Take care all,

Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

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Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 23:19:40 EDT
From: <MFATZII@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Holley ID

SNIP
Any carb is worth rebuilding (if you can use them). Realize that in addition
to the rebuild kit ($20), in order to "dial it in" to your application, you
will need (for vacc secondaries) a spring kit, a main jet kit (2 each jets
66-99, but more expensive to buy jets individually), perhaps a few different
sized nozzles, a fuel pump cam kit, maybe some different power valves, perhaps
an electric choke.......you get the idea.
SNIP

 Sounds like too much of a pain to mess with...the only thing wrong with the
carb on the car is the terrible hesitation, and the really black exhaust
deposits in the tail pipe, and on the ground.  :(   Need to have somebody tune
it in for me that knows what the hell they're doing.     It's freshly rebuilt
though, I just can't adjust it correctly.  (Rochester 4 jet)

BTW:: anybody want to buy a Holley 600............

Ryan  (M Fatz II@aol.com)
Lincoln, Ne

56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project rocket)
<A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click here</A>
85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham

89 Beretta
81 Kawasaki LTD

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Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 23:29:37 +0000
From: ejhufnagel@juno.com (Edward J. Hufnagel)
Subject: Last Call-'80 Toro parts

Gang,
          Heading to the junk yard this weekend(6/21) so if you need
anything let me know.

Thanks,
              E.J.

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1309
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