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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1397


oldsmobile-digest       Thursday, July 30 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1397



Re: Hood Latch Clips
Re: Tuning Q-Jet
'65 442 on the road
Re: Tuning Q-Jet
Re: Holley carb power valve
How do I set up a Holley 3310?
[none]
Re: Distribor Curve Question for Olds 455
Re: 80 Olds 350 running rough
RE: Distribor Curve Question for Olds 455
Engine Oil Analysis
RE: Engine Oil Analysis
Re: Master cyl bore size??new style master,long
V8 engines book...
RE: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke
Re: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke
Re: Engine Oil Analysis
RE: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke
RE: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke
Re: Engine Oil Analysis
UNBOUNCE: V8 engines book...
RE: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke
RE: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke
RE: UNBOUNCE: V8 engines book...
Re: Engine Oil Analysis
All Good Things Must Come To An End
Edelbrock electric choke
RE: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke
Re: Performer Vacuum
RE: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke
RE: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke
Perfomer Intake
215 V8 into Mazda Rx7
Macungie, PA
TH-2004R Durability - A Response from Art Carr
Re: TH-2004R Durability - A Response from Art Carr
Wheels & parts question
Re: Fastball video.
Re: Weather Stripping
Re: Fastball video.
Re: 307 Olds. What to do with the '86 Cutlass?
Re: Electric Choke
RE: RE: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke
is the pre-luber worth it?
'86 Supreme
Re: What do the Olds Heads and Intake manifold weigh?
Meeting Time for this Sunday's Union, IL Get-together
Rocket Talk
'76/'77 Cutlass/Regal door swap
Re: '65 Cutlass Wheel Covers
Back again, on digest; Blew a head gasket on the 403- what've I missed around
here? Re: Rocket Talk Re: Meeting Time for this Sunday's Union, IL Get-together
Chrome and rust spots Re: Fastball video. Re: Macungie, PA Re: is the pre-luber
worth it? Re: Wheels & parts question

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 10:46:46 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Hood Latch Clips

> dont think so on the web page but they do have a phone number cant seem to
> find it right now will reply directly with info but any body shop or auto
> body supply store should have the catalog...kk

Doesn't matter much I suppose.  Auveco only sells through distributors.
I had a HECK of a time convincing them to send me a catalog.  Funny,
there's no phone number in the book.  Here's the number though.
1-800-354-9816.  Maybe they can at least tell you what they have, and
who your nearest distributor is.  I searced the entire catalog, and the
only clips they have that are even close are for door lock rods.  Part #
15518 and # 15759

The address is:

Auto Vehicle Parts Co.
P.O. Box 17350
7 Sperti Drive
Covington, KY 41017

Hope this helps
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 11:11:06 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Tuning Q-Jet

In a message dated 98-07-29 22:23:18 EDT, you write:

<< Where is a good place to buy jets and primary rods for Q-Jets? >>

A good place.....dunno.

Others have made suggestions to me.

Your local Olds Dealer *might* have them, or he may be able to order them from
Rochester Products Division.

(Gee, can anyone guess what book I've been reading?)

Further, Karl now got 2 Edelbrock cat's (yah, with the heads in it) and they
carry Q-jet rods and hangers! Karl does not know nor will even guess exactly
how interchangeable these are with *any* year Q-jet. More disclaimers apply
here than usual.

[BTW (to a listmember) despite Edelbrock's plethora of carb stuff, no 2v carb
spacers. Sorry.]

You might get a better price by grabbing a carb of known jetting out of a
yarde.
Karl can get Roch 2 Jets, and Q-jets for like $5 per at a yarde (out of the
barrel-o-carbs). These are usually corroded on exterior and anywhere water can
get. Jets seem to be somewhat resistant. I can name one person who has even
acquired a tri-taper metering rod this way.

Or if you are desperate [answer is...], Doug Roe has formed his own company
[according to my copy] and might have other sources if he cannot supply.

Karl is about to crash and book is in car.

Will look later.
If emergency, mayhaps another member can assist.

Is D. Roe's company on internet?

Just another hallucination from..

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 10:27:44 -0500
From: "Paul L. Brillhart" <pbrill1@uicvm.cc.uic.edu>
Subject: '65 442 on the road

Hi,

  I finally got my '65 back together and on the road.  Many thanks to Joe
padavano for his tips on installing a timing cover with the engine
installed. I had to remove all the oil pan bolts except for around the rear
seal.  Definitely worth the trouble.  Now I have to re-time the engine as
the previous owner tried without luck to get it to run right without knowing
he had the wrong bank angle cam installed.  Even with the timing off it runs
great.  Later.

Paul L. Brillhart, Ph.D.
Research Engineer
PBRILL1@uic.edu
Energy Resources Center
University of Illinois at Chicago
(312) 413-2646

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 08:50:29 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tuning Q-Jet

Year One sells primary metering rods, secondary metering rods, and main
jets for Q-jets.


Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 11:52:46 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Holley carb power valve

Hmmm.

The "power valve" in Roch carbs provides additional fuel at a certain manifold
vacc pressure to prevent "bog" as one goes from Idle to WOT. (I think)

The Holley "power valve" is essentially a diaphragm that is keyed to open at
*very* specific pressures. Usually the # representing the millimeters of
Mercury (mm Hg) of vaccuum at which the valve opens is stamped onto the side
(or somewhere) on the Holley power valve itself. You can buy PV's with
different pressure ratings. Ratings are something like 2.5mmHg, 3, wait a sec,
where is my Jegs.....

OK...2.5, 3.5, 4.5, 5.0.....

Realize that the PV is keyed to pressures of  off-idle vacuum, where idle vacc
is prolly the most vaccuum you engine will produce. It may be difficult for
you to reproduce that vacc condition in order to test your power valve as one
might test one's vacc advance unit.

Basically, if your carb bogs when you "floor it" (not that Karl recommends
such activity in a street environ...) then you may have a bad PV or require a
PV with a lower vacc rating.

Now somebody please verify this statement (Karl very tired);

The higher the number of mm Hg, the more vaccuum and thus the greater the
pressure difference from ambient air.

Hope this helped....

BTW www.holley.com has technical pages which may derve to answer your
questions better.

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 11:33:03 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: How do I set up a Holley 3310?

I have a friend with a Holley 3310 carb and would like to know the best
procedure to set it up PROPERLY.  He keeps playing around with float
level, jets, blocking off secondaries to see if primaries are ok, etc.

I need help to set this thing up.

First, what is baseline?  What is the stock out of the box settings and
jets??

This is for a AMC 360 CID engine, but for the typical 5.7L engine, what
are typical jets, squirters, etc?

Is the Holley worth much at all compared to a Q-Jet or AFB?  This is for
street driving, not racing.  But it does have a AMC Torquer intake on it
(think Victor Jr style, LARGE plenum).  OLDS CONTENT:  I know most
people would not waste time at putting a Holley on an Olds, but....

(oh, yes, we know it is the wrong intake for the app, but the name sold
it, not the performance!  Anyone want to trade the AMC Torquer for a
Performer AMC?)

Thanks!

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 13:43:29 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: [none]

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date:	Thu, 30 Jul 1998 10:27:44 -0500
From:	"Paul L. Brillhart" <pbrill1@uicvm.cc.uic.edu>
Subject: '65 442 on the road

Hi,

  I finally got my '65 back together and on the road.  Many thanks to Joe
padavano for his tips on installing a timing cover with the engine
installed. I had to remove all the oil pan bolts except for around the rear
seal.  Definitely worth the trouble.  Now I have to re-time the engine as
the previous owner tried without luck to get it to run right without knowing
he had the wrong bank angle cam installed.  Even with the timing off it runs
great.  Later.

Paul L. Brillhart, Ph.D.
Research Engineer
PBRILL1@uic.edu
Energy Resources Center
University of Illinois at Chicago
(312) 413-2646

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 13:26:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Re: Distribor Curve Question for Olds 455

On Thu, 30 Jul 1998, Johnson, Sam wrote:

> Quick question for all the Olds people with 455 olds motors.
>
> I have the medium spring and the light spring in my 455 my timing is set at
> 20. I was wondering what everyone else has there motor set at. And also what
> carb are you running too. I want to compare notes with everybody.
>
I use the lightest springs possible and the timing is set at 35 degrees total
(initial + mechanical) at 2000 rpm.. no pinging.. no vacumn advance.. and
I have no idea what the initial is.. runs like a bandit..  :-)

With your initial set at 20 you are probably running close to 45 total
and that is way to much.. olds engines do not like advance over 36.. rev
the engine to about 3000 with appropriate eye protectors etc and check it.

Varhus Columbus, Ohio
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 12:57:21 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: 80 Olds 350 running rough

I did something like that, got #5 and #7 plug wires crossed, still would
beat most cars in nearly all punch it situations, (well, it WAS a 455!)
but if I hit the 4bbls, she would buck like a bad dog.  Stay in the
2bbls and all was smooth, idled smooth too.  Started a little hard.  But
still did even on cold days.  Was pretty embarrassed when I realized
what I did!

So simple thing to make me feel so....

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC Ram Air
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac (WAS A 455 for a few years....)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 13:42:02 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: Distribor Curve Question for Olds 455

What is initial timing?
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
11 Wins 10 Losses
======================


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	The Viking [SMTP:avar@infinet.com]
	Sent:	Thursday, July 30, 1998 12:27 PM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	Re: Distribor Curve Question for Olds 455

	On Thu, 30 Jul 1998, Johnson, Sam wrote:

	> Quick question for all the Olds people with 455 olds motors.
	>
	> I have the medium spring and the light spring in my 455 my timing
is set at
	> 20. I was wondering what everyone else has there motor set at. And
also what
	> carb are you running too. I want to compare notes with everybody.
	>
	I use the lightest springs possible and the timing is set at 35
degrees total
	(initial + mechanical) at 2000 rpm.. no pinging.. no vacumn
advance.. and
	I have no idea what the initial is.. runs like a bandit..  :-)

	With your initial set at 20 you are probably running close to 45
total
	and that is way to much.. olds engines do not like advance over 36..
rev
	the engine to about 3000 with appropriate eye protectors etc and
check it.

	Varhus Columbus, Ohio
	http://www.infinet.com/~avar
	http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
	Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
	  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
	  Gem City Rockets
	
	

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 11:40:58 PDT
From: "flynt myrick" <f_myrick@hotmail.com>
Subject: Engine Oil Analysis

List members,
  Do any of you have your engine oil analyzed?  AutoZone is now selling
a Mobile Oil Company oil analyzing kit.  Have any of you tried it?  It
cost $9.99 in my area.  Do you think the information learned it is worth
$10?  What are some of your opinions?

Flynt Myrick
f_myrick@hotmail.com
http://www.hotmail.com


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 13:47:00 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: Engine Oil Analysis

I would love to be able to have my oil analyzed, among other things.  Is
this AutoZone some kind of store?
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
11 Wins 10 Losses
======================


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	flynt myrick [SMTP:f_myrick@hotmail.com]
	Sent:	Thursday, July 30, 1998 1:41 PM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	Engine Oil Analysis

	List members,
	  Do any of you have your engine oil analyzed?  AutoZone is now
selling
	a Mobile Oil Company oil analyzing kit.  Have any of you tried it?
It
	cost $9.99 in my area.  Do you think the information learned it is
worth
	$10?  What are some of your opinions?

	Flynt Myrick
	f_myrick@hotmail.com
	http://www.hotmail.com


	______________________________________________________
	Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 11:48:02 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Master cyl bore size??new style master,long

AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com wrote:

> Im going to take my master apart and see what the bore size is. Before i do
that > i did notice when i bolted it on it seemed not tobe flush with the
booster like > the rod in the > booster was to long by .100''. So as you make
the master tight it engages the > master slightly. Im going to try some shim
stock.

 The boosters pushrod should depress the master cylinders piston a bit.  This 
is
normal.  So I wouldn't suggest shimming.  You might check the length of the
pushrod.  Remove it from the booster.  The overall length should be 2.630"

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 19:04:52 +0100
From: Barry Cornes <pha22@keele.ac.uk>
Subject: V8 engines book...

Help!!

I've recently seen, while surfing the web the other day, a book on Olds
V8 engines of all types. The only thing I remember is that it cost $24,
I know I should have made a note of it then, but I thought I'd remember
where it was that I saw it. Now of course I don't remember.
Can anyone out there help, do you know where I saw it, or what the
actual title is, I think it's simply "Oldsmobile V8 Engines" and most
importantly, where I can buy a copy from. Next time I'll make sure I
note all the relevant details.

Thanks in advance

Barry  Cornes
NASC Public Relations
England

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 12:30:16 -0700
From: Erik Badzinski <erikreb@netbridge.net>
Subject: RE: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke

Thomas Martin wrote:
>
> If your mech says to hook it up so it gets turned on and off, go find
> another mechanic.  He is clueless!
>
> The electric choke is AUTOMATIC by itself!  Do you REALLY want it to
> close while you are driving?  Duh!  The choke uses a bimetallic coil
> that when cools makes a complete circuit.  When it warms up it moves
> away from the +12V side and turns off, when it cools, it will reconnect
> itself and warm back up.
>
> The reason is simple, you want the choke to be on when the engine is
> cold, not warm.  When it is warm you want the carb to control mixture.
> When cold the carb cannot make the mixture rich enough so it needs the
> additional help of the closed choke to get to the needed richness.
> Typically around 5:1, and on a cold day, even 3:1.  The engine temp will
> keep it open only somewhat on a cold day, but when the intake temp is 10
> degrees, and the engine coolant temp is up to 160, the choke will
> actually close!  I know, I had it happen on my 455 when I blocked off
> the heat riser to the intake manifold and had the divorced choke.
>
> You want the choke to be wired to ignition only HOT.  You don't want the
> choke to be on when you are not in it, then it will stay open all the
> time, and kill your battery!  Ideally you want it to be switched with
> something like the oil pressure sender or alternator idiot light so that
> when the engine dies on that 10 degree morning, and you are inside, the
> choke does not keep warming up and make it hard to restart.
>
> I am not sure you can just arbitrarily connect to the oil pressure
> sending unit line unless it is designed to.  My 80 T/A came with
> electric choke, so you could connect it there.  It would turn off the
> choke if the engine died because it was connected to the alternator wire
> that flashes the alt to turn it on.
>
> The reason I know about the carb you have, is I have one!  (1407 with
> electric choke)
>
> Thomas Martin
> 85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
> 91 Bonneville LE 3800
> 80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac

Mr. Thomas Martin,

Let me tell you something, GO FUCK OFF!!!  I am only 17 years old and I
am not rich or relatively smart about auto mechanics.  The mechanic that
is helping is doing so on his own time, free of charge.  He thought it
needed a special control switch, but wasnt sure, so he told me to ask
you guys.  If I knew I was going to have an asshole reply, I wouldnt
have asked.  Not all of us can be as smart as you.

Sincerely,

Erik Badzinski

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 14:53:35 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke

Eric,

I do not think Thomas Martins response deserved any of this Eric.
I bet this will start a huge 2-3 day thread on curse words and rude people.
It's really too bad....

Brett Wilson

- -----Original Message-----
From: Erik Badzinski <erikreb@netbridge.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, July 30, 1998 2:27 PM
Subject: RE: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke


>Thomas Martin wrote:
>>
>> If your mech says to hook it up so it gets turned on and off, go find
>> another mechanic.  He is clueless!
>>
>> The electric choke is AUTOMATIC by itself!  Do you REALLY want it to
>> close while you are driving?  Duh!  The choke uses a bimetallic coil
>> that when cools makes a complete circuit.  When it warms up it moves
>> away from the +12V side and turns off, when it cools, it will reconnect
>> itself and warm back up.
>>
>> The reason is simple, you want the choke to be on when the engine is
>> cold, not warm.  When it is warm you want the carb to control mixture.
>> When cold the carb cannot make the mixture rich enough so it needs the
>> additional help of the closed choke to get to the needed richness.
>> Typically around 5:1, and on a cold day, even 3:1.  The engine temp will
>> keep it open only somewhat on a cold day, but when the intake temp is 10
>> degrees, and the engine coolant temp is up to 160, the choke will
>> actually close!  I know, I had it happen on my 455 when I blocked off
>> the heat riser to the intake manifold and had the divorced choke.
>>
>> You want the choke to be wired to ignition only HOT.  You don't want the
>> choke to be on when you are not in it, then it will stay open all the
>> time, and kill your battery!  Ideally you want it to be switched with
>> something like the oil pressure sender or alternator idiot light so that
>> when the engine dies on that 10 degree morning, and you are inside, the
>> choke does not keep warming up and make it hard to restart.
>>
>> I am not sure you can just arbitrarily connect to the oil pressure
>> sending unit line unless it is designed to.  My 80 T/A came with
>> electric choke, so you could connect it there.  It would turn off the
>> choke if the engine died because it was connected to the alternator wire
>> that flashes the alt to turn it on.
>>
>> The reason I know about the carb you have, is I have one!  (1407 with
>> electric choke)
>>
>> Thomas Martin
>> 85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
>> 91 Bonneville LE 3800
>> 80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac
>
>Mr. Thomas Martin,
>
>Let me tell you something, GO FUCK OFF!!!  I am only 17 years old and I
>am not rich or relatively smart about auto mechanics.  The mechanic that
>is helping is doing so on his own time, free of charge.  He thought it
>needed a special control switch, but wasnt sure, so he told me to ask
>you guys.  If I knew I was going to have an asshole reply, I wouldnt
>have asked.  Not all of us can be as smart as you.
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Erik Badzinski
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 13:56:51 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Oil Analysis

OK, I'm interested, what does it claim to tell you?

Eric
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/

flynt myrick wrote:
>
> List members,
>   Do any of you have your engine oil analyzed?  AutoZone is now selling
> a Mobile Oil Company oil analyzing kit.  Have any of you tried it?  It
> cost $9.99 in my area.  Do you think the information learned it is worth
> $10?  What are some of your opinions?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 16:02:48 -0400
From: "Weaver, Stanleigh G" <Stanleigh.Weaver@PHL.Boeing.com>
Subject: RE: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke

Erik,

Lighten up dude! I'm still trying to figure out what part of Thomas
Martin's response got you so ticked?? Seems to me he gave you some
excellent detailed advise and sincerely tried to help you out which is
what this whole thing is about.

> ----------
> From: 	Brett Wilson[SMTP:bwilson@dmotorworks.com]
> Sent: 	Thursday, July 30, 1998 3:53 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke
>
> Eric,
>
> I do not think Thomas Martins response deserved any of this Eric.
> I bet this will start a huge 2-3 day thread on curse words and rude
> people.
> It's really too bad....
>
> Brett Wilson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Erik Badzinski <erikreb@netbridge.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Thursday, July 30, 1998 2:27 PM
> Subject: RE: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke
>
>
> >Thomas Martin wrote:
> >>
> >> If your mech says to hook it up so it gets turned on and off, go
> find
> >> another mechanic.  He is clueless!
> >>
> >> The electric choke is AUTOMATIC by itself!  Do you REALLY want it
> to
> >> close while you are driving?  Duh!  The choke uses a bimetallic
> coil
> >> that when cools makes a complete circuit.  When it warms up it
> moves
> >> away from the +12V side and turns off, when it cools, it will
> reconnect
> >> itself and warm back up.
> >>
> >> The reason is simple, you want the choke to be on when the engine
> is
> >> cold, not warm.  When it is warm you want the carb to control
> mixture.
> >> When cold the carb cannot make the mixture rich enough so it needs
> the
> >> additional help of the closed choke to get to the needed richness.
> >> Typically around 5:1, and on a cold day, even 3:1.  The engine temp
> will
> >> keep it open only somewhat on a cold day, but when the intake temp
> is 10
> >> degrees, and the engine coolant temp is up to 160, the choke will
> >> actually close!  I know, I had it happen on my 455 when I blocked
> off
> >> the heat riser to the intake manifold and had the divorced choke.
> >>
> >> You want the choke to be wired to ignition only HOT.  You don't
> want the
> >> choke to be on when you are not in it, then it will stay open all
> the
> >> time, and kill your battery!  Ideally you want it to be switched
> with
> >> something like the oil pressure sender or alternator idiot light so
> that
> >> when the engine dies on that 10 degree morning, and you are inside,
> the
> >> choke does not keep warming up and make it hard to restart.
> >>
> >> I am not sure you can just arbitrarily connect to the oil pressure
> >> sending unit line unless it is designed to.  My 80 T/A came with
> >> electric choke, so you could connect it there.  It would turn off
> the
> >> choke if the engine died because it was connected to the alternator
> wire
> >> that flashes the alt to turn it on.
> >>
> >> The reason I know about the carb you have, is I have one!  (1407
> with
> >> electric choke)
> >>
> >> Thomas Martin
> >> 85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
> >> 91 Bonneville LE 3800
> >> 80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac
> >
> >Mr. Thomas Martin,
> >
> >Let me tell you something, GO FUCK OFF!!!  I am only 17 years old and
> I
> >am not rich or relatively smart about auto mechanics.  The mechanic
> that
> >is helping is doing so on his own time, free of charge.  He thought
> it
> >needed a special control switch, but wasnt sure, so he told me to ask
> >you guys.  If I knew I was going to have an asshole reply, I wouldnt
> >have asked.  Not all of us can be as smart as you.
> >
> >Sincerely,
> >
> >Erik Badzinski
> >
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 16:28:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: RE: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke

How do you say 'Thrown off list'?


>Mr. Thomas Martin,
>
>Let me tell you something, GO

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 16:31:30 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Oil Analysis

Flynt:

Engine oil analysis is a very good thing. It can tell you if you have a
bearing going bad long before any damage is done. It can also tell you,
among other things, if there is fuel or water getting into the oil long
before you could tell by sight or smell.
The guys I know that drive "big rigs" have it done with every oil
change.
For only 10 bucks, sounds like a no brainer.

Mark Hahn
75 Delta 88 Royale Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 17:38:58 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: V8 engines book...

Not on the list; respond to pha22@keele.ac.uk if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Barry Cornes <pha22@keele.ac.uk>
Subject: V8 engines book...

I've recently seen, while surfing the web the other day, a book on Olds
V8 engines of all types. The only thing I remember is that it cost $24,
I know I should have made a note of it then, but I thought I'd remember
where it was that I saw it. Now of course I don't remember.
Can anyone out there help, do you know where I saw it, or what the
actual title is, I think it's simply "Oldsmobile V8 Engines" and most
importantly, where I can buy a copy from. Next time I'll make sure I
note all the relevant details.

Thanks in advance

Barry  Cornes
NASC Public Relations
England

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 17:40:17 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: RE: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke

Erik, you just said the magic words that get you removed instantly from
this list. Inappropriate comments such as that are not tolerated here.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 16:41:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: RE: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke

Erik.. chill out.. it is not worth starting a huge war.. the answer you
got was full of good info...

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 16:46:21 -0400
From: "Weaver, Stanleigh G" <Stanleigh.Weaver@PHL.Boeing.com>
Subject: RE: UNBOUNCE: V8 engines book...

I believe your refering to the Joe Mondello V8 Technical reference guide
which covers all 1964-1990 Olds motors except the 394. check out this
site: http://www.tcsn.net/mondello/
        S.G. Weaver



> ----------
> From: 	Greg Beaulieu[SMTP:ab348@chebucto.ns.ca]
> Sent: 	Thursday, July 30, 1998 4:38 PM
> To: 	Oldsmobile
> Subject: 	UNBOUNCE: V8 engines book...
>
> Not on the list; respond to pha22@keele.ac.uk if you can assist.
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia,
> Canada
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From:	Barry Cornes <pha22@keele.ac.uk>
> Subject: V8 engines book...
>
> I've recently seen, while surfing the web the other day, a book on
> Olds
> V8 engines of all types. The only thing I remember is that it cost
> $24,
> I know I should have made a note of it then, but I thought I'd
> remember
> where it was that I saw it. Now of course I don't remember.
> Can anyone out there help, do you know where I saw it, or what the
> actual title is, I think it's simply "Oldsmobile V8 Engines" and most
> importantly, where I can buy a copy from. Next time I'll make sure I
> note all the relevant details.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Barry  Cornes
> NASC Public Relations
> England
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 14:02:40 -0700
From: "noelle r murphy" <MURPH2@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Oil Analysis

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BDBBC2.B6C427C0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

flynt,

It will probably only tell you viscosity and dilution,  not worth it unless
you go 15 or 20,000 miles without changing your oil.  hope this helps,

Paul Harsany
66 f-85 Cutlass
- ------=_NextPart_000_01BDBBC2.B6C427C0
Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF"><p><font size=3D2 =
color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Arial">flynt,<br><br>It will probably only =
tell you viscosity and dilution, &nbsp;not worth it unless you go 15 or =
20,000 miles without changing your oil. &nbsp;hope this =
helps,<br><br>Paul Harsany<br>66 f-85 Cutlass</p>
</font></body></html>
- ------=_NextPart_000_01BDBBC2.B6C427C0--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 13:53:34 -0700
From: Erik Badzinski <erikreb@netbridge.net>
Subject: All Good Things Must Come To An End

DA-DA-DA-DA THAT'S ALL FOLKS!!!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 16:01:25 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Edelbrock electric choke

The electric choke should be wired to a switched ignition source.  Key
on, should have power, key off, shouldn't have power.  It's that
simple.

If the choke opens too quickly, loosen the three screws and rotate the
cover (I believe it is clockwise, but I forget).  The position of the
cover determines how long the choke stays on.

If you apply power and the choke opens right up, something else is
wrong.

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 16:01:10 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: RE: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke

Way to go Greg!  Thanks for publicizing this and I hope he saw it before you
pulled his plug.




Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca> on 07/30/98 03:40:17 PM

Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca


To:   Erik Badzinski <erikreb@netbridge.net>
cc:   oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

Subject:  RE: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke





Erik, you just said the magic words that get you removed instantly from
this list. Inappropriate comments such as that are not tolerated here.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 16:08:54 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Performer Vacuum

I used an elbow fitting in the rear for the brake booster.  Another
90degree fitting the rear for the vacuum canister for the air vents.
In the front, a reducer and elbow for the transmission vacuum.
Another elbow for the evaporator canister.

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 15:14:22 -0600
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: RE: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke

> I am only 17 years old

Yes, yes... your comments made that quite obvious...

> and I am not rich or relatively smart about auto mechanics.

Neither are you "relatively smart" in your choice of vocabulary or manners.

> Not all of us can be as smart as you.

Adults typically know more about everything than little children.  Maybe
when you grow up, you'll be as smart as Mr. Martin -- but only if you learn
to respect your elders and learn from them.  Apparently you're too foolish
to grasp that concept...

Okee Dokee.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 17:05:12 -0400
From: "Thomas Q. Bartee" <tbartee@mitre.org>
Subject: RE: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke

I sure appreciate the detailed replies I've received from Thomas on past
problems.  I had a carb problem with my vacuum break I'da never got fixed
without Thomas' help!


At 04:01 PM 7/30/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Way to go Greg!  Thanks for publicizing this and I hope he saw it before you
>pulled his plug.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 16:31:21 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Perfomer Intake

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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    For Sale
Performer intake for 330-403
Great condition.  coated with VHT clear (can remove)
$100 plus shipping
Austin TX
e-mail PRIVATELY
Brett Wilson
bwilson@dmotorworks.com


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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <FONT =
color=3D#000000>For=20
Sale</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000>Performer =
intake for=20
330-403</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>Great=20
condition.&nbsp; coated with VHT clear (can remove)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000>$100 plus=20
shipping</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000>Austin=20
TX</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>e-mail=20
PRIVATELY</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000>Brett=20
Wilson</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000><A=20
href=3D"mailto:bwilson@dmotorworks.com">bwilson@dmotorworks.com</A></FONT=
></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><FONT=20
color=3D#000000></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 17:53:13 -0400
From: "The Huber Family" <huberfam@hci.net>
Subject: 215 V8 into Mazda Rx7

There was mention on the Jetfire page of a guy in Utah that sells a kit to
swap
this engine into early Mazda Rx7's. If you have his name and phone # or
address
please e-mail me at huberfam@hci.net
Thanks,
Scott Huber

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 18:26:37 -0400
From: "bill" <lewman@mindpulse.com>
Subject: Macungie, PA

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Is anyone going to Macungie this weekend?

Bill Pritchett
lewman@mindpulse.com


- ------=_NextPart_000_0089_01BDBBE7.9723FEC0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Is anyone going to Macungie this=20
weekend?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Bill Pritchett</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:lewman@mindpulse.com">lewman@mindpulse.com</A></FONT></DIV=
>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0089_01BDBBE7.9723FEC0--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 17:21:02 -0500
From: Shang <shang@wans.net>
Subject: TH-2004R Durability - A Response from Art Carr

As some of you may remember, I finished installing a TH-2004R in my '70
a few days back. I have not got the car running yet, but I am close
(waiting on machine shop to finish the block). I am very confident that
this transmission will hold up to my Olds 350, but I am not so sure
about the 455 I am planning on building a year or 2 down the road. I
decided to write to Art Carr about the TH-2004R, wanting to know if he
thought it would hold up the 455 Olds making about 550/550 HP/TRQ. My
numbers are perhaps a little high for what I am planning on building,
but I want to be sure I was covered. Below is the reponse that I
received from one of his sales associates:

>Dear Mr. Stephen Hoover,

>My name is David Gallitero; I am a Sales Representative and Tech >Asssistant
for Art Carr Performance Products. I am responding to your >email in regards to
the durability factor of the TH-2004R transmission >that we build. Honestly, 
you
are above the maximum limit for torque for >this transmission. It is not the
horsepower, it is the ft lbs of torque >that these transmissions can't handle.
Realistically, the TH-2004R can >only handle about 450-500 ft lbs of torque. 
You
have really only two >options; One, is to go with the 4L80E set up. Two, is to
go with the >TH-400 with the Gear Vendor's overdrive. I know these options 
might
be >out of your price range, but as far as durability and reliability is
>concerned, it is the only option. The 4L80E is a much better choice >over the
TH-400 with the Gear Vendor's overdrive. This transmission has >a lot to offer
as far as performance and don't forget the overdrive. >The gear ratio in the
overdrive is .75, which is great on the highway. >There are a lot of pros and
cons putting a Gear Vendor's overdrive >behind a TH-400. With the 4L80E, you
don't have to worry about that and >it is the same thing as a TH-400 with an
overdrive. The price you are >looking at is $2,450.00 plus a $600.00 core
charge. You also have to >buy our tailshaft housing that is set up for the
mechanical speedo, >$395.00 your price. I'd also set you up in our 10" HD Super
Torque >converter, this would put you at 2500-2800 stall. $575.00 your price.
>As f! ! ar as a stand alone computer is concerned, you would have to call
>around for prices and availability. If you have any further questions, >please
call me on our toll free number (888)526-5868 or you can email >me at
dave@autoglobaltech.com.


I thought that many of you would find this infomation interesting and
helpful when trying to decide what to do for overdrive. I think it is
obvious that he pushing the 4L80E, since that is what he sells, but
personally I have spent some time checking out this Gear Vendor
overdrive unit for the TH-400 and I think that that is the best way to
go. Someone on the list already has this unit I think? The unit is
cheaper, has the ability to split the gears and is in my opinion
probably a stronger unit. My only concern is that it is only available
in a .78 ratio, which means that I would still have to compromise on my
rearend ratio in order to put the RPM's where I think they should be.
With the TH-2004R's .67 overdrive, my current rearend ratio of 3.73
becomes and effective 2.49 ratio in overdrive. With the Gear Vendors
overdrive .78 ratio, I would have to reduce my rear gearing to 3.23 in
order to achieve and effective gear ratio of 2.51. I know I can get away
with less gear with a big block, but I was thinking more anout 3.55 or
3.42. Hope this helps.


Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 17:24:13 -0500
From: Shang <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Re: TH-2004R Durability - A Response from Art Carr

ICK! Sorry about the formatting, it looked fine when I was ready to send
it. My apologies!

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 18:31:45 -0400
From: "Ulysses Melen" <Master-Stile@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Wheels & parts question

To list members,

I've got two requests.

1.  Does anyone have pics. of the new Torq-Thrust II on there Olds.  I saw
an article on them in the new issue of Popular Hot Rodding & I was wondering
what they would look like on my 71.  Guess that GM just licensed them to
American Racing & you can get them with the Olds "442" emblem.

2.  A friend of mine is looking for the center piece for his sports steering
wheel for his 71 442 his had been stolen from a shop he had work done at.
Need it in black.  If you have more than one that would be great because I
know others that need to replace there's.

E-mail me back at:

Master-Stile@worldnet.att.net

Ulysses

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 18:43:13 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: Fastball video.

I have the video to this song...If you don't have AOL, I can email it to
you.....

LooseCanno@aol.com wrote:
>
> This is really taking off!
>
> Just saw the Fastball video ("Anyone can see the road that they walk on is
> paved in gold..") .  The whole band in a mid-seventies convertible Delta,
> maroonish-red.. Whose car is that?
>
> Erik
> '69 Cutlass convert

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 15:43:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: John <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Weather Stripping

- ---"Weaver, Stanleigh G" <Stanleigh.Weaver@PHL.Boeing.com> wrote:
>
> Members,
>
> Does anyone know where I can get new Weather Stripping for my 1984
> Cutlass S. I need it around the doors/windows top and bottom.

- ---Stan,
        A&M Softseal carries them..about $80.00 for the pair (hard top )
               John
==
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73 http://www.442.com/mcjunkin.html
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof-307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!
 mailto:super442@yahoo.com


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 18:45:28 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: Fastball video.

Arthur Hoffman wrote:
>
> I have the video to this song...If you don't have AOL, I can email it to
> you.....
>
>actually, I can zip up the file and email it to anybody...duh!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 19:25:39 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: 307 Olds. What to do with the '86 Cutlass?

>I've got a white/maroon leather '86 Cutlass Supreme Brougham that's been
>in the family since it was a baby (you guessed right. It's my mom's
>car). It's got 140K miles and is in good shape. I'd like to play with
>the suspension (it handles like a cow) and give it a little kick (well,
>'ya know :-).
>


Yup. I know..

There are aftermarket cams that are similar to the 442 grind, available for
the roller motor. I can give you the Comp Cams part no. if you want. Besides
the cam, the 3.73 gears and dual exhaust are the only things a 442 has that
you don't. Although no one has been able to tell me if the Y and 9 motors
have the same pistons (anybody got a GM p/n book?).

You can add the cam and twice-pipes and get maybe 20 hp. Beyond that you
need to replace the heads. The Eldebrock manifold won't fit if you have 7A
heads. But swapping to 5A heads you'll lose some compression. And milling
them down means an adjustable valve train. Compromises.

I'm leaning toward building an older 307 and swapping it in next spring.
Simpler all-round. But I'll miss the quiet smoothness of the roller motor.
More compromises.

I doubt 15 sec is possible with a roller 307. 16-17 is more like it.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 19:41:51 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Electric Choke

>So you are saying that when there is power to the choke it is open?
>So if you wired the choke to the battery with a switch, when you turned the
>switch
>on the choke would open.


Right. The choke is closed when it's cold and has no juice. After the engine
starts, you apply power to the choke and it slowly opens. It stays powerd on
all the time while the engine is running. Engine heat keeps it from closing
completely if you shut the motor off for a short time, but the choke's own
electric heater is what really makes it open fully.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 19:48:28 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: RE: RE: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke

Brett Wilson wrote

<<I'm still trying to figure out what part of Thomas Martin's response got
(Eric) so ticked?>>

=====

In my work I often find myself mediating between people and here's my
observation:

The answer was certainly loaded with great information, but I bet that when
Thomas said:

<<If your mech says to hook it up so it gets turned on and off, go find
another mechanic.  He is clueless!>>

and

<<The electric choke is AUTOMATIC by itself!  Do you REALLY want it to
close while you are driving?  Duh!>>

that Eric felt insulted, put down or perhaps even embarrassed by "He is
clueless" and "Duh!"

It's hard sometimes when your reading an e-mail response to get a sense of
the other person.  Well meaning words, and especially good natured sarcasm
or reaction, can come across as put downs etc. because we as the reader
don't see the body language or facial expression that goes along with the
words.  Which is why some people use ;) etc.  (I find it can be hard even
when I'm looking right at somebody!)

I'm not defending or accusing anybody here.  Just simply pointing out where
I thought the reaction got started.

jp

Jonathan Parke
mailto:jonparke@together.net
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 17:00:56 PDT
From: "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
Subject: is the pre-luber worth it?

Hey all,
    im going to be rebuilding a 69 olds 455,and is it worth the $439.99
to put a pre-luber on it? i have herd yes ,and iv herd no,
so i figerd i would ask the guys that new best ,and its alot of dowe to
put out for something that mite not work.
so if anybody has something that mite help me out ,plese email me.

Thanks
      Ryan.


  My  -------   -------
            /  |
           /   |
          /     ------
         /            |
        /             |
       /        ------    DELTA 88
Ryan D Beck
           Riviera72sss@hotmail.com


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 21:04:46 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: '86 Supreme

The other night I met a fellow who has an '86 Supreme he bought new. He
wants to join OCA and came to me looking for the address. Anyhow, this is
the nicest-condition car you can imagine. 36,000 kilometers (20K miles),
never driven during winter or even in rain, even the paint under the trunk
mat is pristine, as is the mat. He said nothing has ever been put in the
trunk nor has anyone ever sat in the back. It's black with the dark maple
interior, buckets, console, guages, F41 (or is it FE2?) but for some
reason no a/c. Totally original except for the yellow plug wires (ugh, I
told him to lose those; he said he still has the originals). Not a speck
of corrosion anywhere, not even any rust on the heat shroud on the x-man.
I've never seen one in better condition here. The only downer was that
since it was built in Canada it has a Ch*vy 305 4-bbl, not the Olds 307.
He was worried (seriously) that OCA wouldn't take him!

Nice to see cars as well taken care of as this one.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 98 20:07:37 EDT
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: What do the Olds Heads and Intake manifold weigh?

    Big block or small block?  A BB head weighs 55 lbs. A guess on a BB cast
iron intake is probably 45 to 50.

    Glenn
    '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 17:16:27 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Meeting Time for this Sunday's Union, IL Get-together

I will be out of the office tomorrow and probably pretty
unavailable in general between now and Sunday, but for those
who will be showing their Oldsmobiles at the Illinois Rail
Museum this Sunday at the Annual Transport Extravaganza, I'd
like to pick a time when you'll be by your car so we can get
a photo or two. How's 2:00 p.m. sound? In theory the museum
will group each club's cars together, or at least nearby, so
the "Internet Olds Club", as we are known on the registration,
should at least be all in the same field if not side by side.

Keep in mind the train rides on the Zephyr and the steam
engines down the main line tend to run about 45 minutes'
duration, so do try not to be four miles down the line at
2:00, okay?  :-)

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 18:25:24 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Rocket Talk

Well, folks,  Another Rocket Talk night, but I'm afraid I won't be able to be
there...  I'm hoping to ~hear~ about all the rest of you there, though.  I'll 
be
on the road to Havre, and don't have a laptop...  Which is probably good, 'cuz
the Cellular bill would kill me, and I'd probably hit the ditch every time I
fell over laughing.....  So, with all that said, I won't be there, but extend
the invitation for everyone else to go and have fun there!  See ya all later!

http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/oldschat.htm

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
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    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 20:30:47 -0400
From: "Michael A. Evans" <evans1@net-link.net>
Subject: '76/'77 Cutlass/Regal door swap

I talked to a parts yard guy today that says he has a couple of "Southern,
rustfree" doors that will fit my '76 Cutlass S....but they're off of a '76
Buick Regal.  Can anyone confirm that these are indeed the same? If so,
I'll go test the validity of "rustfree" doors... ;-)

Thanks,


Mike Evans
Richland, MI

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 20:49:28 EDT
From: <GT5726@aol.com>
Subject: Re: '65 Cutlass Wheel Covers

I think that the wheel covers you are refering to are the same for 442's and
Cutlass'.I can tell you ,with certainty, that the wheel covers are not going
to be cheap.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 20:56:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Back again, on digest; Blew a head gasket on the 403- what've I missed
around here?

This summer class took up all my time, but it's over so I'm back on the list
in digest mode.

Not much new on the Olds front- I blew another head gasket in the 403 (other
side this time, so it's got all new gaskets) in the same manner as I did the
other side last year; I had driven on a hot day, parked it, and revved the
motor after it had sat for a little while.

It seems that the 403's need a constant flow of coolant to keep everything
nice and square; when you let it sit, the nice cool (relatively speaking)
radiator fluid keeps that thin bit of iron between the siamesed bores
somewhat straight, but when it's shut down, the heat from the engine evens
out, and the cylinder walls perhaps distort. Then, when you give it
full-throttle shortly after starting the engine when it's hot, the high
cylinder pressure (I've got 175psi static pressure, plus 16' initial timing)
can blow out the gasket between the cylinders.

I neglected to pay attention to a rule I made for myself, to not rev the
motor for at least five minutes driving time after starting it hot. I might
add in a recommendation to O-ring any overbored 403's with small-chambered
high-compression heads when you're doing other machine work, unless you
don't mind an annual head-gasket change.

Oh, and the fact that I've got properly-torqued ARP head bolts doesn't seem
to make any difference in this...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 18:12:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: John <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Rocket Talk

- -Hi Gang,
     I'm going in early (like now),if anybody's bored and wanna join
in,see ya there.
             John
==
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73 http://www.442.com/mcjunkin.html
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof-307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!
 mailto:super442@yahoo.com


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 21:13:30 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Meeting Time for this Sunday's Union, IL Get-together

In a message dated 98-07-30 20:22:51 EDT, you write:

<<  In theory the museum will group each club's cars together, or at least
nearby, so
 the "Internet Olds Club", as we are known on the registration, should at
least be all in the same field if not side by side >>

Ah, this did not happen last year.

Or at least, there was a black Caravelle betwen me a Jeff Easton's Smokin 4 4
2.

But Andy will not be able to read this, and I will be present, but not showing
my car.

So we have until 2:00 to find a familiar name....

Last year I was assigned group "O" but mebbe different this year....

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 21:26:25 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Chrome and rust spots

Howdy list.......
        To make this Olds related, I just found some small rust spots
on my 442 SSiii wheels. I need to know the cure-all remedy for
getting rid of this rust before it goes cancerous..!! Private replies
will be greatly appreciated...!!!

Mike......
Ironto VA
'86 442
'86 Supreme
'71 Monte
'54 Ex wife
'84 daughter
'70 employment with railroad
'70 diploma Andrew Lewis High School-Salem, VA
'52 birth certificate (my own)
'98 Six pack of George Killians Irish Red

I'll leave with "yall" with that................................!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 18:11:42 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Fastball video.

Send it to me directly at kerryk@mci2000.com thanx
- -----Original Message-----
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, July 30, 1998 3:43 PM
Subject: Re: Fastball video.


>I have the video to this song...If you don't have AOL, I can email it to
>you.....
>
>LooseCanno@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> This is really taking off!
>>
>> Just saw the Fastball video ("Anyone can see the road that they walk on
is
>> paved in gold..") .  The whole band in a mid-seventies convertible Delta,
>> maroonish-red.. Whose car is that?
>>
>> Erik
>> '69 Cutlass convert

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 21:29:50 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Macungie, PA

bill wrote:
>
> Is anyone going to Macungie this weekend?
>
> Bill Pritchett
> lewman@mindpulse.com
>

Yes, will be there with my '67 Ninety Eight.  Just installed the
radiator about an hour ago, so she's all set to go now.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 18:19:22 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: is the pre-luber worth it?

do you mean an oil accumulator this is a little dohickey that holds a quart
of oil under pressure that is injected into the engine in the event of an
oil pump failure or is this just a pressurized device that injects oil into
the engine just at startup?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ryan D <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, July 30, 1998 5:02 PM
Subject: is the pre-luber worth it?


>Hey all,
>    im going to be rebuilding a 69 olds 455,and is it worth the $439.99
>to put a pre-luber on it? i have herd yes ,and iv herd no,
>so i figerd i would ask the guys that new best ,and its alot of dowe to
>put out for something that mite not work.
>so if anybody has something that mite help me out ,plese email me.
>
>Thanks
>      Ryan.
>
>
>  My  -------   -------
>            /  |
>           /   |
>          /     ------
>         /            |
>        /             |
>       /        ------    DELTA 88
>Ryan D Beck
>           Riviera72sss@hotmail.com
>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 18:23:04 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Wheels & parts question

the torq-thrust wheels would look good on your car no pics yet but I may be
using them for drag racing on my 69 442 yes everyone I know they will be
heavy but I like the look used them on a 10 second 71 camaro and they looked
good on that...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ulysses Melen <Master-Stile@worldnet.att.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, July 30, 1998 3:35 PM
Subject: Wheels & parts question


>To list members,
>
>I've got two requests.
>
>1.  Does anyone have pics. of the new Torq-Thrust II on there Olds.  I saw
>an article on them in the new issue of Popular Hot Rodding & I was
wondering
>what they would look like on my 71.  Guess that GM just licensed them to
>American Racing & you can get them with the Olds "442" emblem.
>
>2.  A friend of mine is looking for the center piece for his sports
steering
>wheel for his 71 442 his had been stolen from a shop he had work done at.
>Need it in black.  If you have more than one that would be great because I
>know others that need to replace there's.
>
>E-mail me back at:
>
>Master-Stile@worldnet.att.net
>
>Ulysses
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1397
*********************************
