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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1301


oldsmobile-digest        Tuesday, June 9 1998        Volume 01 : Number 1301



Re: gauges..
RE: value of car wanted
Ciera Upgrades
Re: 87 Cutlass Production #'s
Re: Gas Tank Question
Re: first time out
Subject: Taking the Computer Controlled Carb off.
Blubber out the exhaust
Cause of Bad Tach?
Re: 87 Cutlass Production #'s
Re: 87 Cutlass Production #'s
Re: Gas Tank Question
Re: Rear Disc Brakes 1968 442
Re: gauges..
Letters needed for 65 Olds
RE: Gas Tank Question
RE: Letters needed for 65 Olds
IS That REALLY the factory jack for 1972 98??????
Re: Cause of Bad Tach?
Re: Rear Disc Brakes 1968 442
RE: Rear Disc Brakes 1968 442
RE: gauges..
RE: first time out
Re: IS That REALLY the factory jack for 1972 98??????
72 options: was this a rare combo?
Re: IS That REALLY the factory jack for 1972 98??????
Re: Letters needed for 65 Olds
Re: IS That REALLY the factory jack for 1972 98??????
IS That REALLY the factory jack for 1972 98??????
Re: IS That REALLY the factory jack for 1972 98??????
Re: Letters needed for 65 Olds
Re: 67 Delta 88 convertible
Re: Olds 455!!
Re: Subject: Taking the Computer Controlled Carb off.
Re: IS That REALLY the factory jack for 1972 98??????
Headers vs. Manifolds
Re: Octane for 455
Re: Octane for 455
charcoal canister and vacuum leak...
Re: any 64 olds for sale or any 64 olds parts for sale?????
Re: any 64 olds for sale or any 64 olds parts for sale?????
cruise control
1987 Cutlass Figures
85mph speedo
Olds 350 Mystery Noise
Ciera GT's
Re: Olds 350 Mystery Noise
Anyone going to the B.O.P. Show in the Cleveland area June 14th
Re: Olds 350 Mystery Noise
switch under back plate
1972 Delta 88 CONVERTIBLE for Sale
Re: Olds 455!!
Re: engine swapping
Show Books

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 01:47:41 -0400
From: super442@mindspring.com
Subject: Re: gauges..

At 12:40 AM 6/9/98 -0400, you wrote:
>
>
>>Does anyone know if Olds ever put any over 85 mph speedos in the gauge
>>clusters of the Cutlass'? (the round style) 78-88? A
>
>Answer is yes ,not supposed to send pics on webring ,so if you want to see
pic of mine hit me direct.

super442@mindspring.com

John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 23:27:18 -0500
From: Albert Meyer <Olds@AustinTX.net>
Subject: RE: value of car wanted

What a coincidence. I just joined the list because I bought this car for
$1500. I'm not sure it was a wise choice, but it's the car I've always
dreamed of. It's got cancer bad so I need a non-convertible to cut pieces
out of. I've never owned an Olds before, or a convertible with an electric
top. Any suggestions would be appreciated, and if anyone wants to sell a
'68 98 for parts I'm interested. Crashed or blown motor is OK, as long as
the rocker panels and front body are good. Is there a junkyard in Texas (or
close) that specializes in Olds?

>I came across one in Austin, Tx.  The guy wanted about $2500 too.  It
>needed a lot of work.  Almost bought it.  He was willing to settle for
>$1600.  Most of the body was in ok shape but it had the cancer.  I
>decided to pass... I came this close.
>
>I looked it up the Olds in Old Cars Price Guide.  It is probably worth
>that much in 3 to 4 condition, but you could probably talk him down, at
>least under $2000.
>
>You left a lot out.  Does the car run? How long has it been sitting?
>The pros and cons of restoration.  I have found decent looking and
>running convertibles in the $3800-$5000+ range.
>
>Good Luck,
>
>Chris Rivier
>'66 Delta 88..."The Beast," in progress.
>'88 Festiva..."Zippy"  160K+@ 40 mpg, neeed I say more.
>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Jun 1998 22:41:01 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Ciera Upgrades

I had this inquiry from a non-list member.  Please reply privately as
outlined below.  Thanks!!

Hello I just got a 1989 Olds Cutlass Ciera and I'm trying to lower it about
2"
and maby do a little somthing to the power plant. The problem is I can't find
any thing that has parts for it. I've look in Mag's, online, and in some
stores. I just wanted to know if you could help me in any way because I realy
like the car. Thank you for your time.
E-mail me at Theman8888@AOL.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 05:44:08 -0400
From: "Mike R." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: 87 Cutlass Production #'s

> >The 442 was an option on the Salon models.  I don't know exactly how many
> >were produced, 3000?

The 87 442 (around 4200 were made) was available on the Supreme (GR)
based Cutlass in 87 as far as I know (this was based on discussions with
a GM line manager at the assembly plant.  NEVER seen one on the GK for
87), however, if any of you fine folks with an 87 442 would check your
VINs for us, I'd sure be interested to see if there were any GKs
available with that option.  I know the one I bought 11 years ago was a
Supreme.

The 85 442 factory photo/promo says it was available on the Supreme,
however, it WAS only offered with the Salon coupe in 1985.

Just some info.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 06:25:38 -0400
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <tjacquillard@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: Gas Tank Question

> Because mine only leaks when it is very full. Not after. Gas tank itself does
> not get wet.
snip!
My tank was also doing this. I found that my vent line in the back of my
tank was dry-rotted. The line is supposed to extend above the level of
the tank, but if it has holes in it, it will leak fuel when the tank is
full. I have also known this to happen if the car is jacked up real high
in the back. It also would not run down the tank, it would leak onto the
ground in front of the tank. My car is a '68 Cutlass, I hope it is the
same with yours. We would rather it be something simple (and cheap).
T.J.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 06:36:35 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: first time out

When looking at HP ratings, you should always look at the torque as
well.  This is important.  Olds cammed the 307 to work with ultra high
gearing.  From 2.14 without OD, to 2.41 with OD.  That is about
1300-1500 at 60 mph.  Chevy engines have cylinder heads that do not flow
well at low lift/low rpm levels.  So hence the 2.73 gears on a 305.
Most Chevy's did not get gearing like this.  (Granted, a friend of mine
had a 82 Chevy B_Body wagon with 267, 2bbl, OD and 2.56 gears!!  Talk
about a SLUG!)  The same Cutlass would have 2.14's.  Acceleration would
be close to the same once moving.

In 1980 the 301 Pontiac was rated at 140 hp, the 305, 135.  The HO 301,
170, the HO 305, 165.  The 301 Turbo 210 (345 ft lbs torque), the 305
needed TPI and roller cam to get there.  And if anyone has ever seen 301
heads, you understand that the 301 was not a heavy breather!  My Turbo
301 layed down at 4500 rpm, poor airflow.
Pontiac designed it as a low rpm motor.

The Olds 307 (Y) was rated at 140 hp from 82-90, and the torque was 255
ft lbs.  Seems to me it took a 305 to get TPI to get torque like that.
HP is one thing, torque is Olds.  Ask any 455 owner!!  Can we say Brain
Damaging??

Comparing Chevy's to Olds to Pontiac to ??? is like comparing oranges,
apples and pears.  Not at all alike unless you account they are all
around 5.0L.

In GM corporate wisdom, there was a good reason to keep the 307 along as
long as it did.  Else it would have made way for the corporate
slo-block, or the slo block would have made way for the Olds 307!
(shared the same bore as the Buick 3.8L, hmm, cost savings on rings and
maybe pistons???? hmmmmmmm)  Saved money on tooling!

I always try to remember, GM does everything for a reason, it is not
always sensible, but there is a reason.  They want to make money, and
having lots of
engines around that are the same size is senseless.


Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 06:44:18 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: Subject: Taking the Computer Controlled Carb off.

Can't say I agree completely, the (at least) 85-up cars used the speed
sensor which was derived from the speedometer with an optical sensor on
it, which went to the ECM then to the cruise unit.  So depends on year.
But the provisions are there to install an older cruise unit.  Look for
the cruise unit under the hood, if it is on the engine only (the servo
with a 6-8 pin connector on it, all in one line) then you need the ECM
or an older unit, also, you will see a splice for the speedo cable,
which should be near the brake master cyl.

If the speedo cable comes up from the trans then to the cruise unit, you
are fine.

Good luck!

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC


>Will I lose the Cruise if I yank the Computer Controlled Carb off, and
>stick a normal carb on?


nope - the cruise is a separate module and doesn't need the computer.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 06:49:31 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Blubber out the exhaust

I am getting a of blubber like noise out of my exhaust at the low rpm's I
can't figure out what it is. Can anyone put some light on what this might
be? At the higher rpm's the blubber is gone, why can't the lower rpm's sound
like the upper rpm's?


===========================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
Cutlass403@ameritech.net
1971 Cutlass S 455
Westside! Chitown IL
===========================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 06:47:19 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Cause of Bad Tach?

My friend Brian asked me to pose this question to the list:

His '71 has a rally pack with the clock/tach that has always worked fine.
On the weekend he disconnected the coil wire and tach lead to pull the
distributor. After doing work on the distributor and reinstalling it, the
tach now reads differently. About 200 rpm higher than actual at idle and
proportionally more at higher revs (about 500 above actual revs at
highway speed). The revs on his tune-up meter still read the same and
seem to be correct.

Could this just be coincidental that the tach went bad or is there
something he could have done in disconnecting/reconnecting it that would
cause this? All power was off while doing the work of course. Any
thoughts appreciated.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 08:54:01 -0400
From: Jim Hurd <jhurd@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: Re: 87 Cutlass Production #'s

>Yessir...
>
>Cutlass Supreme Coupe: 50713
>Cutlass Brougham Coupe: 30100
>Cutlass Salon Coupe: 9221
>
>The 442 was an option on the Salon models.  I don't know exactly how many
>were produced, 3000?  I also don't know if the 442 production number is
>included in the Salon models.  For example, if there were say 3000 442
>coupes produced, would there be only 6221 "regular" Salon Coupes?
>
>Hope this helps out anyway...
>
>Jason Adcock      OCA# 28044       1984 Cutlass Calais Coupe
>mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu       http://www.erols.com/adcockjk
>

Jason,

        Thanks.  Where did you find that info?  I browse trader-online
everyonce in awhile and have noticed I very rarely ever see a Salon listed.
I was wondering just how rare they are.




Jim H.
'87 Salon

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 08:58:36 -0400
From: Jim Hurd <jhurd@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: Re: 87 Cutlass Production #'s

At 05:44 AM 6/9/98 -0400, you wrote:
>> >The 442 was an option on the Salon models.  I don't know exactly how many
>> >were produced, 3000?
>
>The 87 442 (around 4200 were made) was available on the Supreme (GR)
>based Cutlass in 87 as far as I know (this was based on discussions with
>a GM line manager at the assembly plant.  NEVER seen one on the GK for
>87), however, if any of you fine folks with an 87 442 would check your
>VINs for us, I'd sure be interested to see if there were any GKs
>available with that option.  I know the one I bought 11 years ago was a
>Supreme.
>
>The 85 442 factory photo/promo says it was available on the Supreme,
>however, it WAS only offered with the Salon coupe in 1985.
>
>Just some info.
>
>Mike Rothe
>

        I'm just going from memory, but when I bought my car back in January
I thought I read something (in consumer report/edmunds/etc) that the 442
option was only available on the base coupe.




Jim H.
'87 Salon

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 09:04:01 -0400
From: Jim Hurd <jhurd@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: Re: Gas Tank Question

At 06:25 AM 6/9/98 -0400, you wrote:
>> Because mine only leaks when it is very full. Not after. Gas tank itself 
does
>> not get wet.
>snip!
>My tank was also doing this. I found that my vent line in the back of my
>tank was dry-rotted. The line is supposed to extend above the level of
>the tank, but if it has holes in it, it will leak fuel when the tank is
>full. I have also known this to happen if the car is jacked up real high
>in the back. It also would not run down the tank, it would leak onto the
>ground in front of the tank. My car is a '68 Cutlass, I hope it is the
>same with yours. We would rather it be something simple (and cheap).
>T.J.
>

I had a similar problem too.  Only my main line was dry-rotted.  My tank
would leak when I filled it.  I just figured I had some pin holes on top of
the tank.  It became harder and harder to start until one day it wouldn't
start at all.  I figured it was the fuel pump.  Just for kicks I decided to
blow back thru the line to see if it was clogged.  All I could hear was air
coming out of the line at the top of the tank.  I got some JB weld and small
piece of rubber hose and that did the trick.  The hole had gotten so big
that it was easier for the fuel pump to pump air than gas.




Jim H.
'87 Salon

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 09:03:57 EDT
From: <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Disc Brakes 1968 442

I put rear disk from a 80 TA on the rear of my 72 cutlass. Dont have the time
now to go into detail.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 09:02:51 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@viperlink.net>
Subject: Re: gauges..

Angel Castrodad wrote:
>
> I can help with the gauges. If I recall correctly, '84-'86 442's had 120 MPH
> speedos, at least mine does. These are the round, rally gauges indeed. I
> don't know about the Hurst/Olds but I guess so too.

My friend with the 84 Hurst has a 120.

Wasn't it not too long ago someone was talking about a 140 sticker
upgrade on the speedo?
- --
                 Jerry Christopher
           Mailto:ithefunki@viperlink.net
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
        HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 07:30:02 -0700
From: Jim Bauman <jbauman@earthlink.net>
Subject: Letters needed for 65 Olds

Hi,

I need the chrome letters S and M (from OldSMobile) for
the trunk of my '65 Ninety Eight. Anybody have these
or know of a good source?

Thanks,

Jim Bauman

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jun 98 10:23:00 PDT
From: Joseph Cernada <joec@tpg.com>
Subject: RE: Gas Tank Question

>> Because mine only leaks when it is very full. Not after. Gas tank
itself
>> does
>> not get wet.

> My tank was also doing this. I found that my vent line in the back of
my
> tank was dry-rotted. The line is supposed to extend above the level of
> the tank, but if it has holes in it, it will leak fuel when the tank is
> full. I have also known this to happen if the car is jacked up real
high
> in the back. It also would not run down the tank, it would leak onto
the
> ground in front of the tank. My car is a '68 Cutlass, I hope it is the
>same with yours. We would rather it be something simple (and cheap).

I get this behavior in the summer.  I fill my gas tank in the evening
when the outside temperature has cooled down.  Then, when the car sits
out in the sun the next day, the gas in the full tank expands and a small
bit overflows (I assume from the vent line) and ends up on the ground.

 ---
Joseph Cernada
TPG Financial Systems, Inc.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 09:30:32 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: Letters needed for 65 Olds

Now that's funny :  )


Hi,

I need the chrome letters S and M (from Oldobile) for
the trunk of my '65 Ninety Eight. Anybody have these
or know of a good source?

Thanks,

Jim Bauman




===========================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
Cutlass403@ameritech.net
1971 Cutlass S 455
Westside! Chitown IL
===========================

> ----------
> From: 	Jim Bauman[SMTP:jbauman@earthlink.net]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Tuesday, June 09, 1998 9:30 AM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Letters needed for 65 Olds
>
> Hi,
>
> I need the chrome letters S and M (from Oldobile) for
> the trunk of my '65 Ninety Eight. Anybody have these
> or know of a good source?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Bauman
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 07:46:47 PDT
From: "Eric Aksomitis" <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: IS That REALLY the factory jack for 1972 98??????

Well, after a long hard weekend, I have to solve the burning question in

my mind:



First, the story:

Driving along in my 72 Olds 98, 'Big Green', and my co-pilot, the Lovely

Rosi remarks, "Hey, that Volkswagon looks cute" while in the presence of

the mighty Big Green!!  Needless to say the car dies shortly after, with

no starter motor, just a disgruntled Clicking noise.  After an

un-succesfull test-boost, the selenoid was blamed.  So I dig out my

factory (I believe) jack, not one with the tab that pokes into a little

slot on the bumber, but a long J-shaped looking chunk of metal that

kind-of wraps onto the bumper?  After 3 unsuccessful tries of trying to

lift the car, accomplishing only to bend it and crack the marker-light

lense, I gave up and looked for the old-fashioned jack-method, pushing

the car up on the sidewalk.  With the help of the local pizza-guy who

was driving buy, we pushed the car onto the sidewalk, leaving a lot of

clearance at the rear of the motor.  Add some blocks to the tires and

under I go, to find the rear of the selenoid broke and not functioning.

Add a very careful "Hold it in place while someone else starts the car",

Big Green was alive, and ready to take me home.  The next day, a new

selenoid and brushes while it was out, and Big Green is

fully-operational.



Now, the question:

Is the Factory Jack so nicely bolted into the trunk of my 72 98 Supposed

to be a Normal looking Jack base, with a long J-shaped chunk of metal

that Fits onto the jack (IT is detachable), such that the curve of the J

slides underneath the bumper??  If this is the real jack, how do I jack

up the front of my car???  I've used the jack on the rear of the car,

and that at least works, but I tried every way I could think of, and

could not get the front jacked up!!!  The jack is back in it's

bolted-down spot, But there is a hydraulic jack in the trunk as well who

is now entrusted as executive-lift-up-big-green.



Am I wrong, or is that just Crazy (Such a beautiful car, where's the

quality control on that kinda thing??)





Thanx for listening

Eric Aksomitis

http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/biggreen.shtml



______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 10:50:55 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Cause of Bad Tach?

Check to see if the tach wire was installed on the correct side of the
coil.

- -greg

- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, June 09, 1998 8:16 AM
Subject: Cause of Bad Tach?


>
>My friend Brian asked me to pose this question to the list:
>
>His '71 has a rally pack with the clock/tach that has always worked
fine.
>On the weekend he disconnected the coil wire and tach lead to pull
the
>distributor. After doing work on the distributor and reinstalling it,
the
>tach now reads differently. About 200 rpm higher than actual at idle
and
>proportionally more at higher revs (about 500 above actual revs at
>highway speed). The revs on his tune-up meter still read the same and
>seem to be correct.
>
>Could this just be coincidental that the tach went bad or is there
>something he could have done in disconnecting/reconnecting it that
would
>cause this? All power was off while doing the work of course. Any
>thoughts appreciated.
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia,
Canada
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 10:55:33 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Disc Brakes 1968 442

- -----Original Message-----
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, June 09, 1998 9:05 AM
Subject: Re: Rear Disc Brakes 1968 442


>I put rear disk from a 80 TA on the rear of my 72 cutlass. Dont have
the time
>now to go into detail.

Wow! You can't give us that sentence and not give us the whole
detailed story!  When you get some time, let us know.  Quite of few of
us listers would like 4 wheel disks without having to pay $2500 or
learning how to weld.
- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 10:57:51 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: Rear Disc Brakes 1968 442

Greg, hook a brotha up man. Was it hard? did you have to make any big or
small changes? Was it easy? Can you stop any better? dude, the people of
Oldsmobile need to know.


===========================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
Cutlass403@ameritech.net
1971 Cutlass S 455
Westside! Chitown IL
===========================

> ----------
> From: 	Gregory Zimmerman[SMTP:zimmermangm@email.msn.com]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Tuesday, June 09, 1998 9:55 AM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: Rear Disc Brakes 1968 442
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Tuesday, June 09, 1998 9:05 AM
> Subject: Re: Rear Disc Brakes 1968 442
>
>
> >I put rear disk from a 80 TA on the rear of my 72 cutlass. Dont have
> the time
> >now to go into detail.
>
> Wow! You can't give us that sentence and not give us the whole
> detailed story!  When you get some time, let us know.  Quite of few of
> us listers would like 4 wheel disks without having to pay $2500 or
> learning how to weld.
> -greg
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 08:36:42 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: RE: gauges..

Nope, the H/O has 85 mph gauges too :-(

Pegged it on my trip to Montana a few weeks ago :-)

GM Performance parts offered a 120mph speedo at the time (late 80's) :-)

But they're long gone and I haven't been able to find one no matter how hard I
look :-(

However, the 120mph 442 gauges should be a direct swap :-)

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

- ----------
From:  Angel Castrodad[SMTP:angleki@prtc.net]
Sent:  Monday, June 08, 1998 9:40 PM
To:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:  Re: gauges..

I can help with the gauges. If I recall correctly, '84-'86 442's had 120 MPH
speedos, at least mine does. These are the round, rally gauges indeed. I
don't know about the Hurst/Olds but I guess so too.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 08:02:14 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: RE: first time out

Man, the 305 in my '78 Cutlass is only marginally quicker than the 260 I
used to have.  Won't even squeal the skinny 195/75 series tires.  Then
again, I don't know what gears it has but it just starts to get comfortable
around 75-80 :-)  The 305 in my dad's '87 Monte will squeal the tires
though (highway gears and an overdrive).

I was looking at the stock specs on the carbed 305 vs. the 307 a while
back.  I noticed that the HP ratings were very close, but in almost every
year the 307 had about 20 more ft-lbs of torque.  That's where you get the
power.  HP sells cars, Torque wins races.  Also, the 307 provides it's peak
power and torque and a lower (read realistic, useable on the street every
day) RPM than the 305 does.

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

- ----------
From:  Ryan Hehn[SMTP:ryanh@mb.sympatico.ca]
Sent:  Monday, June 08, 1998 5:19 PM
To:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:  Re: first time out

I don't think you guys can generalize that the 307 will always outpower a
305.  These guys with the 305's must've had them in terribe shape.  My 86
Cutlass with 305 (Canadian built) moves quite a bit quicker than by
brother's 81 Delta with 307 (in good shape).  He even admits it.  In fact,
that 305 will often squeal the tires.  It surprises a lot of newer cars.  I
should mention it has 2.73s.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 11:10:42 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: IS That REALLY the factory jack for 1972 98??????

It may or may not be the correct jack, but I would guess it is.  Bumper jacks
from that era really suck due to weird shapes of bumpers.  Does the hook part
of the jack have two different pins that attach to the ratchet part?  In my
feeble memory I seem to recall GM using two of these pins in some jacks, one
for the front and one for the rear.  Front and rear were usually stamped into
the side of the hook.  If this is what you have, you may have not used the
correct pin for the end of the vehicle you were trying to lift.  You were
going to support the vehicle with something other than that death-trap jack
when you crawled under it, weren't you????  Your choice of a hydraulic bottle
jack is a good choice.  Leave the bumper jack in the trunk and use the
hydraulic, it will save your bumper and possibly your life.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 09:32:01 -0700
From: Jar Lyons <jar.lyons@atrieva.com>
Subject: 72 options: was this a rare combo?

72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
455
dual exhaust
4 barrel Quadrajet
power windows
power/tilt steering
power brakes (front discs)
power trunk
a/c

- --
The Atrieva Service: Safe and Easy Online Backup
                www.atrieva.com

Jar Lyons - Software Engineer
Atrieva Corporation
One Union Square
600 University Street, Suite 911
Seattle, WA  98101

jar.lyons@atrieva.com
Voice: (206) 749-2914,
Fax:   (206) 382-6615

- ------------------------------------------------------------------
                1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass Convertible
                       455 Rocket Powered
                'How fast do you want to go today?'
- ------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 12:42:38 EDT
From: <W30442CS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: IS That REALLY the factory jack for 1972 98??????

hi, i have pulled that type of jack out of several olds over the years ( J
SHAPED ) ,and while both cutlass and 98`s use it, the big cars use one a bit
diff. than the cutlass.  while i keep them in the trunk for orig. sakes, i
dont use them on the cars. for one they tend to  bend the bumpers, crack
lense`s, ect.,  but there also unsafe!  on a bad surface or un-even grade they
tend to jump out and hit something/or someone.  and if your under it when this
happens , well you get the picture!  my dad was working on the starter on one
once when i was a boy and the jack jumped out.  had it not been the starter he
was working on,  it might have killed him!  as it was all four wheels were
still on the car and kept the car from going all the way to the ground.  he
did suffer several broken ribs though.   i prefer to use hyd. jacks or the
later factory models that lift up the frame.          hope this helps.
steven, w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 09:49:49 PDT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Letters needed for 65 Olds

S and M, huh?

later,




Chris Rivier
'66 Delta 88..."The Beast"
'88 Festiva..."Zippy"  160K+@ 40 mpg, neeed I say more.

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 12:52:43 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: IS That REALLY the factory jack for 1972 98??????

A couple of thoughts on this thread:

First, for safety's sake, please, PLEASE, _NEVER_ get under a car supported
only by  a jack.  Period.  And that means _any_ kind of jack, bumper,
scissors, hydraulic, etc.  Use proper jackstands and make sure the car is
properly supported on the stands.  The last thing we want is to lose a
fellow list member.

Second, I suspect that the bumper jack discussed in this thread originally
_is_ the correct one for the 98.  As someone mentioned, these jacks
sometimes have two pins, one for front and one for back, to properly
position the "J" piece to mate with the bumper.  The other thing to
remember, however, is that the "J" _must_ be centered on the bumper
bracket.  Typically the "J" will have a shallow notch in it's hook end.
This notch is intended to center the hook on the lower edge of the bumper
bracket.  Using the "J" hook anywhere else on the bumper will only serve to
twist the bumper.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 09:55:34 PDT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: IS That REALLY the factory jack for 1972 98??????

Hey Eric,

Save your bumpers and be safe, use a hydraulic jack and jack stands.  My
D-88 has a similar jack if not the same type, it bites or rather it
doesn't.  It barely holds up all that weight.  Maybe just in time to
barely switch a tire.

Later,


Chris Rivier
'66 Delta 88..."The Beast"
'88 Festiva..."Zippy"  160K+@ 40 mpg, neeed I say more.

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 13:01:12 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@viperlink.net>
Subject: Re: IS That REALLY the factory jack for 1972 98??????

Chris Rivier wrote:
>
> Hey Eric,
>
> Save your bumpers and be safe, use a hydraulic jack and jack stands.  My
> D-88 has a similar jack if not the same type, it bites or rather it
> doesn't.  It barely holds up all that weight.  Maybe just in time to
> barely switch a tire.

I had one of these style jacks on my 78 LeSabre, and a buddy had one on
his 79 Delta..  Although they'd lift the car extremely high, mine had a
habit of going up, and leaning into the jack itself.  I used to throw
junkyard tires on the car, cause I was too cheep to get new ones..  I
had a tire that shook at 45, but didn't above 45 and one that shook at
55 and didn't below..  I used to swap tires on it to go on the
interstate.  This was a daily thing...  For 3 mos.  I can say outta the
numerous times I used the jack, the car fell off at least twice a
week..  It'd lean in and fall over.  Chipped a brake rotor from this
method too.  All I can say is that there is no way in ^3|| I'd get under
the car with one of these.
- --
                 Jerry Christopher
           Mailto:ithefunki@viperlink.net
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
        HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 13:03:47 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@viperlink.net>
Subject: Re: Letters needed for 65 Olds

Jim Bauman wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I need the chrome letters S and M (from OldSMobile) for
> the trunk of my '65 Ninety Eight. Anybody have these
> or know of a good source?

Hahaha, at least you didn't ask for the B and D....

Lemme get this straight, right now you have an Old  omile.

I'll look around....
- --
                 Jerry Christopher
           Mailto:ithefunki@viperlink.net
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
        HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 13:14:50 EDT
From: <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 67 Delta 88 convertible

 peter,got the oil changed today...jiffy at sears $5.oo with my o/F

later  jeff....

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 13:06:37 -0400
From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Olds 455!!

i have a smooth running 455 in a 73 delta with trans. 133k no abuse
whatsoever. local mechanic has repiared it since new and can tell you
complete repair history.(so could i tho) i want to sell the whole car (not
really, buti have to) .you can definately get "rid" of the nice interior
and doors,etc. im asking $600 for the wohle vehicle,and you can drive it
home.
please email me back. thanks
Erik

- ----------
> From: Roger Nienberg <s002rwn@discover.wright.edu>
> To: oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Olds 455!!
> Date: Wednesday, May 27, 1998 8:51 AM
>
> Does anyone know where I might find a Olds 455 for a good price?  My
> cutlass's numbers don't match so I might as well put some power in her if
> she's now original.
>
> Roger Nienberg
> 69' cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 13:54:28 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Subject: Taking the Computer Controlled Carb off.

- ----------
> From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
> To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject: Subject: Taking the Computer Controlled Carb off.
> Date: Tuesday, June 09, 1998 7:44 AM
>
> Can't say I agree completely, the (at least) 85-up cars used the speed
> sensor which was derived from the speedometer with an optical sensor on
> it, which went to the ECM then to the cruise unit.

I believe the road speed signal feeds both the cruise module and the ECM. I
don't think the ECM processes the signal before the cruise module gets it
(I gotta look at the wiring diagram to be sure). Even if it did, the
question of whether the cruise would work with a non-computerized carb
should still be "yup". You just gotta hook the servo's linkage to the new
(old?) carb.

Assuming the 81 is the same as my 85, the cruise system has 2 parts - an
electronic gizmo under the dash and a vacuum servo on the intake manifold.
The electronics gets speed input from the speedometer as Tom mentioned. It
in turn controls vacuum solenoids in the servo unit, which controls
throttle.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 11:22:06 PDT
From: "Eric Aksomitis" <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: IS That REALLY the factory jack for 1972 98??????

Tnanx all, now some clarification:
Along with bringing out my jack, I bring out the spare tire to set the
wheel into (I consider this to be quite safe.)  (Actually, Toronodo Rims
are a perfect shape with that dish to them for this job)

The factory jack is now considered a for-looks-only attachment, the
hydraulic jack / 2x4 collection is now the only jack I will try.

Big Green has forgiven the incredible insult sufferd (A Volkswagon looks
cute, my $%^), and is cruising quite nicely, in fact on the drive in
this morning, he blew-by and waved at a fellow commuter (At a reasonably
excessive speed, I'll admit).

Thanx all

Padavano.Joe@orbital.com wrote:

> First, for safety's sake, please, PLEASE, _NEVER_ get under a
> car supported
> only by  a jack.  Period.  And that means _any_ kind of jack,
> bumper,
> scissors, hydraulic, etc.  Use proper jackstands and make sure the
> car is
> properly supported on the stands.  The last thing we want is to lose
> a fellow list member.


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 13:41:41 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Headers vs. Manifolds

To list

Right now on my 67 Cutlass I'm running Headman 1 3/4 headers.
I'm really getting tired of hitting them on speed bumps and poor roads.  My
330 needs the flow with the setup I'm running; However, these headers have
to go.  The suspension is stock height and I'm running 225/70/15's in front
and I'd like to go to a 255/50/15 but with these headers I can't.  What do
people with a high-performance engine usually do in this situation? I'm
ready to try anything to get rid of these headers.

Also,  I'm in desperate need of a 3.23:1 or 3.55:1 10-Bolt rear end for my
car.  Preferably not a 67 rear end because of the odd carrier bearing set-up
(parts are tough or impossible to find around here). Right now I've got a
2.78:1 out of a 71 GTO Clone (At least it's a red convertible).
any help would be appreciated.

Brett Wilson
67 Cutlass Convertible
bwilson@dmotorworks.com
..Developer..
Austin TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 14:11:19 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Octane for 455

It all depends on what year the engine was made.  If it is pre-1972, I would
highly recommend that you use lead substitute.  After 1972 they had hardened
valve seats which allowed you to run no-lead fuel.
- ----------
Does anyone have a specific (book, page #, etc) GM reference that says 1972 and
later heads have induction hardened valve seats, but pre-1972 heads do not? Or
pre-1972 engines should not run unleaded gas due to valve recession issues? Not
Mondello, Hot Rod, this or that yearly, but specific GM literature. I'd like 
to,
for myself, find out the factory view on the use of unleaded fuel.

The reason I ask is that I ran across a 1971 Impala owner's manual that stated
"all 1971 GM vehicles are certified for use with unleaded fuel". And I believe
our '71 Impala had the gas tank inlet restrictor so unleaded was all you could
use. Well, without removing anything or carrying a funnel. :)
- --
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
  http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
http://nero.dyn.ml.org/~da_bomb/oldsfaq/zip/oldsfaq4.zip

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 15:14:33 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Octane for 455

David Brown wrote:

...I'd like to, for myself, find out the factory view on the use of
unleaded fuel.
The reason I ask is that I ran across a 1971 Impala owner's manual that
stated
"all 1971 GM vehicles are certified for use with unleaded fuel". And I
believe
our '71 Impala had the gas tank inlet restrictor so unleaded was all you
could
use...

   David,

   While I don't have a GM reference, I do have period magazine articles
   which refer to the low-lead requirement.  It was a federal mandate in
   1971 that all cars be able to run on low lead.  This is the reason for
   the across the board compression drop from 10:1 or more to an average of
   8.5:1.  This compression drop resulted in a real horsepower drop (as
   opposed to the simultaneous apparent drop when net HP was used vs gross)
   and, of course, signaled the end of the muscle car era.

   Unleaded gas, and its associated tank inlet restrictor, was mandated in
   1975 with the advent of the catalytic converter.  While this might have
   been phased in earlier in California, 49 state cars did not get the
   restrictor until 1975.
   Joe Padavano
   padavano.joe@orbital.com

   66 442
   68 W-30
   69 H/O
   70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 14:32:03 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: charcoal canister and vacuum leak...

I was just investigating why my '71 cutlass was not running good.  I
have around 350HP and can't spin the tires.  (3.08 posi and mild
torque converter).  Anyway, with a mild cam I was getting 12 inches of
vacuum.  playing with the idle mixture screws I got 13.  I looked
around to see if there could be a vacuum leak, and in the process I
pulled the charcoal vacuum line off of the manifold and plugged it.  I
got 15inches!

Is the canister supposed to take two inches of vacuum off of the
motor?  The canister is original and has never been taken out, or
replaced.  Is it important to keep or can I just leave it unhooked?
No answers from the EPA, please.

I'd appreciate any help,
greg

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 15:43:59 EDT
From: <BrKLynS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: any 64 olds for sale or any 64 olds parts for sale?????

thanks for replying-im looking for a rear bumper,a dash whole dashboard with
cluster and all, quarter panels,oldsmobile panel in the rear,rear tail light
units(lenses and all) and thats about it for now. thanks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 15:45:40 EDT
From: <BrKLynS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: any 64 olds for sale or any 64 olds parts for sale?????

hey guys.im desperate.i need parts for a 64 olds cutlass or f-85.im looking
for quarter panels,heater core plate,panel  between trunk and rear window,rear
bumper,dashboard and accesories. actually,whatever you have for a 64,please
tell me.and,im also looking for a console from like a 69-72 - 3 speed console
 P-R-N-D-S-L - i need the whole shifter and console  and accesories.
also,im looking for two SSI mags.

                       thanks everybody

                             joe

64 olds cutlass f-85

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 12:58:00 -0700
From: Eric Spence <ericsp@mail.ocis.net>
Subject: cruise control

   I have an 81 Toronado that suffered front end damage before I
purchased it and have replaced the body, rad, fan, fuel pump, water
pump,etc.  I would like to get the cruise control working.  I have the
control on the column, speedometer cable to & from the module under the
hood and the sensor on the transmission.  I can not find anything on the
carb to control the speed/gas.  I would expect that a previous owner may
have taken it off?  There are two vacuum hoses on the control the
speedometer cables are connected to that do not go anywhere.  I would
believe one would go to a constant vacuum outlet on the manifold.  Am I
right in there is a control on the carb that is missing and if so does
anyone have a line on one and how it would be installed?  It has a 307
motor, three speed automatic.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 15:57:40 -0400
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: 1987 Cutlass Figures

Message text written byJason
>Yessir...

Cutlass Supreme Coupe: 50713
Cutlass Brougham Coupe: 30100
Cutlass Salon Coupe: 9221

The 442 was an option on the Salon models.  I don't know exactly how many
were produced, 3000?  I also don't know if the 442 production number is
included in the Salon models.  For example, if there were say 3000 442
coupes produced, would there be only 6221 "regular" Salon Coupes?<

The 442 was an option on the Cutlass Supreme for 1987 only.  The 1987
actually cost slightly less than the 1986 because it was not based on the
Salon.  The biggest differences - no recliners on the front buckets, vinyl
on the front section of the upper door panel instead of cloth, thin chrome
strip at top of door panel (horizontal section next to glass) instead of
full width chrome strip, gray dash inserts instead of woodgrain.  I can
check the exact number of 1987 442s made when I get home, bu I believe it
was about 4281.

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E & 4L60-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'96 DCM Impala SS 5.7L V8          '87 Olds Cutlass 442 307 V8

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 15:59:07 -0400
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: 85mph speedo

Message text written by Dyeager
>oes anyone know if Olds ever put any over 85 mph speedos in the gauge
clusters of the Cutlass'? (the round style) 78-88? <

The 1987 442 has a 120 mph speedometer - very rare



Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E & 4L60-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'96 DCM Impala SS 5.7L V8          '87 Olds Cutlass 442 307 V8

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 03:54:54 -0400
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Olds 350 Mystery Noise

I"ve run out of ideas as to what could be wrong with a '71 Olds 350 I put
together recently.   Here's the whole story with the motor:

    Block, crank, rods and pistons (TRW LF2412) were all from a freshly
rebuilt motor I yanked from a parts car.  The motor ran good - except that
it had a CompCams 280 cam and #8 heads with large valves...  There was NO
bottom end noise in the motor whatsoever.   A little valve noise, but I
attribute that to the CompCams roller rockers which were also installed.

    I took a set of #7 heads I had, and took the big valves from the #8
heads and had them fitted into the #7 heads.  Ordered a JM18-20 cam from
Mondello (which I could have probably gotten cheaper directly from Isky)
and put it together with a set of Summit racing house-brand lifters I had
around (new in box) from another never assembled project.  I never even
checked the bearings when I had the motor out....

    The motor ran good, except for a knocking sound which at first sounded
like out of adjustment valves or possibly a bad rod bearing.   Oil pressure
is fine; 25-30 hot slow idle, >45-50 at anything above idle.   Noise was
still there after about 300 miles of break-in driving.   Since then, I've
raced the motor a few times up to the redline (5000 rpm, sounds
reasonable).  No change in the noise - figured if it's a rod then it would
have let the bearing go and I'd know where the problem is.  ;^>

    Last weekend (at about 1500 miles) I finally decided that the cheap
lifters must be part of the problem; the knock would also sometimes cause a
fluctuation in the oil pressure, about a 5lb drop when it knocked.

     Replaced the lifters with real TRW VL-41's.   Ok, most of the valve
noise is gone.  Idle is smoother.   Lots more oil getting up to the
rockers.  But the knock is still here, and now it can be affected by
pulling the #7 plug wire (gets a little quieter).   Problem is, the knock
doesn't sound like a rod bearing; it doesnt' increase amplitude or
frequency with rpm, or by gunning the motor.  If anything it goes away at
higher RPM.

     The summit lifters looked sort of scuffed on the sides (I used plenty
of assembly lube, and prelubed the motor prior to starting it) so I'm
thinking that they might have been bleeding oil past the lifter, somehow
not letting enough oil stay around the rod bearing, hence damaging the #7
rod bearing.

     Could one of the cam journals be slightly undersized?

     The only thing on the bottom end I messed with was trying to install
one of Mondello's mini windage trays - didn't use it because it fit like
total crap...  Put the stock main bearing caps back in and tightened to spec.
Somehow have messed up the main bearing?

     I *REALLY* don't feel like pulling the motor out again...   ideas as
to what the hell it could be?


- --> Bob Valentine
- --> ravalent@liii.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 16:26:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: Andrew Metcalfe <ametcalf@ccs.carleton.ca>
Subject: Ciera GT's

In the three weeks I've had my 86 Ciera GT, I've yet to see anything like
it on the road.

Are there any other two-door Ciera's?  Any other Ciera's have the 3.8L
motor?

Anybody know how many of these were made?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 16:35:11 EDT
From: <Mikeytvb@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Olds 350 Mystery Noise

sounds like one of a few problems with the same symptoms.  check the firing
order.  1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.  next with the engine running back the timing down.
pull the air cleaner off to see if it's spitting gas back out the carb(valve
lash or leaking valves).  check for header gasket leaks or manifolds with no
gaskets(hearing one exhaust firing).  i'm not sure on the specs of the
mondello cam, but maybe you have too much cam.  with a big cam you have to
richen it up and raise the idle.  that's all i can think of right off the top
of my head.

mikey tvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 16:54:38 -0400
From: "Paul L. Fikaris" <fikaris@en.com>
Subject: Anyone going to the B.O.P. Show in the Cleveland area June 14th

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BD93C7.4A166AC0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Just wondering if any list members are going. Please let me know.


June 14 - 7th ANNUAL BOP CAR SHOW & SWAP MEET
Hosted by the Northern Ohio Chapter. At Local 120 Pipefitters Union =
Hall, 6305=20
Halle Dr., Valley View, OH. (Off Rockside Rd., east of I-77, approx 10 =
miles=20
south of downtown Cleveland) No rain date. Registration 9am 'til 12noon. =
Show=20
9am 'til 5pm. For more info: Jim Savnik (216)663-7295, Len Berman (Buick =
Club)=20
(216)464-0828 or Rich Hilko, 4067 Cherokee Trail, Brunswick, OH 44212=20
(330)225-0793


Paul L. Fikaris
69 Delta 88 Conv 455
OCA 30353
fikaris@en.com

- ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BD93C7.4A166AC0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Just wondering if any list members =
are going.=20
Please let me know.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>June 14 - 7th ANNUAL BOP CAR SHOW &amp; SWAP MEET<BR>Hosted by the =
Northern=20
Ohio Chapter. At Local 120 Pipefitters Union Hall, 6305 <BR>Halle Dr., =
Valley=20
View, OH. (Off Rockside Rd., east of I-77, approx 10 miles <BR>south of =
downtown=20
Cleveland) No rain date. Registration 9am 'til 12noon. Show <BR>9am 'til =
5pm.=20
For more info: Jim Savnik (216)663-7295, Len Berman (Buick Club)=20
<BR>(216)464-0828 or Rich Hilko, 4067 Cherokee Trail, Brunswick, OH =
44212=20
<BR>(330)225-0793</DIV>
<DIV><BR>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Paul L. Fikaris</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>69 Delta 88 Conv 455</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>OCA 30353<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:fikaris@en.com">fikaris@en.com</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HT=
ML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BD93C7.4A166AC0--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 15:59:02 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: Olds 350 Mystery Noise

wow deja-vu,
I have that exact problem.  Only at idle, sounds like a rod.
Only it doesn't knock when a rod would...
my guess at first was my torque converter chewing on my tranny input shaft.
or rocker arm cross braces (girdles).
Brett

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com <Mikeytvb@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, June 09, 1998 3:32 PM
Subject: Re: Olds 350 Mystery Noise


>sounds like one of a few problems with the same symptoms.  check the firing
>order.  1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.  next with the engine running back the timing
down.
>pull the air cleaner off to see if it's spitting gas back out the
carb(valve
>lash or leaking valves).  check for header gasket leaks or manifolds with
no
>gaskets(hearing one exhaust firing).  i'm not sure on the specs of the
>mondello cam, but maybe you have too much cam.  with a big cam you have to
>richen it up and raise the idle.  that's all i can think of right off the
top
>of my head.
>
>mikey tvb@aol.com
>

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Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 14:02:41 -0700
From: "David Seiver - Account Executive" <DavidS@AnaServe.com>
Subject: switch under back plate

67 cutlass f85

Hey does anyone know what the switch is for that is next to the gas tank
under the liscence plate?
And what can be done with the two "breather" hoses on the back of the gas
tank?
Also I am looking for 15" rally rims (2 of them)
David Seiver
Account Representative
AnaServe, Inc. - The Future of Web Hosting
Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283
Fax: 714.250.7265
e-mail: davids@anaserve.com
Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com

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Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 16:06:12 -0500
From: rtoubia@ect.enron.com
Subject: 1972 Delta 88 CONVERTIBLE for Sale

Hello:

I have a white/black 1972 Delta 88 Convertible for sale.  The car has a
455 engine which was rebuilt 14,000 miles ago.  Car has lots of new
parts and lots of money went into it.  It needs transmission (it is
slipping on 1st) and top. Body good and interior like new.
The car is in Houston, TX
Price: Asking $2,500 obo.
Phone: 713- 942 8268 home
e-mail: rtoubia@ect.enron.com

Thanks

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Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 16:53:45 -0700
From: "Randy A. Geisel" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Olds 455!!

- ----------
> From: Erik Gertsen <ainode@frontiernet.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Olds 455!!
> Date: Tuesday, June 09, 1998 10:06 AM
>
> i have a smooth running 455 in a 73 delta with trans. 133k no abuse
> whatsoever. local mechanic has repiared it since new and can tell you
> complete repair history.(so could i tho) i want to sell the whole car
(not
> really, buti have to) .you can definately get "rid" of the nice interior
> and doors,etc. im asking $600 for the wohle vehicle,and you can drive it
> home.
> please email me back. thanks
> Erik
>
> ----------
> > From: Roger Nienberg <s002rwn@discover.wright.edu>
> > To: oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > Subject: Olds 455!!
> > Date: Wednesday, May 27, 1998 8:51 AM
> >
> > Does anyone know where I might find a Olds 455 for a good price?  My
> > cutlass's numbers don't match so I might as well put some power in her
if
> > she's now original.
> >
> > Roger Nienberg
> > 69' cutlass S Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 17:20:45 -0400
From: talcarol@erie.net (Chris Kugler)
Subject: Re: engine swapping

Thanks for the info... I'll keep you updated.
Chris Kugler
77 442


>I am swaping a 455 instead of a 307 in my '81 Delta 88.  The 307 and 350
>are same external size so all should be same.  If you have a 455 complete
>from a car, then you are okay, couse you will have all the big-block
>mounting brackets for accesories.  If you don't, then by just buying the
>remanufactured motor, you will have to buy a few little things.
>
>Any 455 pan will fit, but make sure if the TORONADO pan will fit your car.
>I am not sure, but I think your 350 pan may fit as well.  Check.
>
>The waterpump should be a direct swap over to a 455 from 350, but by a new
>one.  Same for the fuel pump.  They are cheap and a worth the money.
>
>The alternator and power-steering and AC will swap from the 350, but you
>need those big-block mounting brackets (cheap at scrap yards).
>
>Your cab will swap no porblem, you may have to rejet it though for more
>CIDs ($5 or so for jets) and retune it.  This is simple
>
>The distributor is identical from the 455 and 350 so no problems there.
>
>You will need, however, a Intake manifold.  The 350 one would NOT fit.
>Your options here are to get a '72-'76 EGR manifold (don't unless you need
>emissions or can't find any other), pre '72 with no EGR.  These two can be
>found on the scrap yards and are dirt cheap.  The other option is Edelbrock
>Performer 455 aluminum intake.  A good intake (a whole lot lighter then
>stock, some 30LBS or so) but you wallet would have to be heavy couse they
>are about twice the price of those SB Chevy ones.  Unless you have money or
>want a top notch motor, don't bother.  You can always change it later.
>Vary easy on OLDS.  And the stock one would set you back $10 bucks instad
>of $400 Can.
>
>Fan clutch and assebly should be fine from the 350.  But since the 455 is
>taller, you may have to shim your fan shroud for clearance.  No problem.
>
>You need to get frame mounts for a 455 so that your engine sits properly.
>Then you may not need to modify the fan shroud, should be fine.  Again,
>simple and cheap.
>
>You COULD use your stock exaust manifolds but I would not.  At least get
>some BB exaust manifolds (can do this when you look for a intake manifold
>at scrap yard).  But if you can afford, RUN headers.  Sounds lots better,
>free HPs as well.  Here you can pick up a whole lots of HPs from a big
>block AND fuel economy as well.  From a scrap yard, BB exaust manifolds are
>cheap, like $5 each.
>
>Just by the new belts.  They are not worth the headake, and since you will
>be droping a fresh nice 455, how would it look to put used belts in.
>
>This is all I can think of now.  Sounds like lots of work but DON'T get
>discouraged.  It now big deal and is all cheap.  You would like the new
>motor lots.  Other then what I listed (or missed) everything should be a
>easy no problem bolt on.  Cruise, trans lines, etc.  If you have any
>questions let me know.  Good luck.
>
>Igor Todorovic, UofC
>1981 Delta 88 (455/TH400, 255/60/15 BFG, 2.41limited slip(soon change))
>1981 98 Regency (every option, 307/200r4/propane)
>1976 Delta 88 (now parts car, was 455)
>1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360, RVcam, 4:10 gears, tire smoker, king off the line)
>1995 Intrepid (3.3L, dads car, okay, but no Delta)
>

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Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 16:12:01 -0600
From: Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com
Subject: Show Books

I got a response to this oldie but goodie...is anybody else interested now
that it's cruise/show season?

I'm on digest mode so E-mail me directly & I'll send you details directly
so I don't take up too much bandwidth!!

Since I sent this out originally I've acquired a 68 Sales Brochure with all
the models for 68 displayed, a 70 Sales Brochure, an ad for a Rallye 350
from a 1970 Car Craft Magazine, a 2 page spread ad for a 71 W-30 (not in
great shape though) & several pictures from the Centennial. I can make a
color copy of any of these and include them in your book.

Scott.Wheeler@pinnacle-brands.com wrote:
>
> Question,
>
> does anyone on the list think there might be a market ($35 range) for an
> info 3 ring binder, customized for your car, with info like production
> numbers, options, ads, restoration photos, etc... all laid out in
magazine
> format with typeset pages & sleeves for anything else the owner happens
to
> find.
>
> I've done 2 so far for my personal cars...70 Firebird & my 68 442 Conv. I
> use them as quick reference for junkyard/swapmeets & also as an info book
> placed on the fan cowl at local shows. People usually ask...Dude, where'd
> you get the cool book?
>
> I've got unbelieveable equipment at my disposal to create custom graphics
> including photos or whatever!
>
> I'm trying to decide if it would be worth my time to do it for somebody
> else.
>
> Besides with the web...the auto info is readily available so research
> wouldn't be tough.
>
> Anybody interested?
>
> Let me know!
>
> Scott Wheeler
> 68 442 Conv
> Dallas

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1301
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