Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1391


oldsmobile-digest        Monday, July 27 1998        Volume 01 : Number 1391



Re: 4 speed wanted
Re: 455 motor
Fittings for bypass of proportion valve needed
Re: 455 motor
Re: Olds Heads
Re: 455 motor
1983 Olds Delta 88
[none]
Re: Oldsmobile dealer ship sign
Re: New burnout page
1987 Cutless Ciera SL Brougham info needed
Fw: Free stock, this is not a joke
More TV Olds
Re: 455 motor
Re: 455 motor
UNBOUNCE: '56 Olds Hood Trim FS
UNBOUNCE: 455 Tuning
Re: 79 442 Fastback?????
Bad (bolt) break
455 -Brakes Wont Hold
Re: Bad (bolt) break
trans, what should i do?
Alero Information
Re: Bolt patterns
Un-subscribe
Re: WANTED: 442 Conv. Frame
Re: Posi Q
Re: Bad (bolt) break
Re: 455 -Brakes Wont Hold
Re: 455 -Brakes Wont Hold
Re: Bad (bolt) break
Do Not Need 1965-7 (??) early pattern flywheel for 425
RE: 79 442 Fastback?????
RE: Posi Q
Re: Fittings for bypass of proportion valve needed
RE: Posi Q
great day at the junqueyard
Re:  455 -Brakes Wont Hold
Re: Spark plug question
engine degreaser
Re: 455 -Brakes Wont Hold
Date:	Mon, 27 Jul 1998 12:58:56 -0400
Re: engine degreaser
mass olds show
69 Cutlass S   FS
Re: trans, what should i do?
Re: Re: Fittings for bypass of proportion valve needed
Re: 455 -Brakes Wont Hold
Re: 455 -Brakes Wont Hold
Glowing spark plugs
RE: How much timing to use?
RE: How much timing to use?
Re: How much timing to use?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1998 23:32:19 EDT
From: <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 4 speed wanted

In a message dated 98-07-26 21:12:46 EDT, you write:

<< Just had a TH400 go bad in my 70 442. I'm considering changing it over to a
4
 speed.  Does anyone have a parts car or the required parts to change it over.
 If so, please send me a price and I will get back to you.

 Thanks,

 Larry >>
i have a ST10 tranny with a bad second gear and lower cluster 3:42 first gear.
the rest of the tranny is real nice. $50 plus shipping im tired of looking at
it.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1998 23:37:28 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: 455 motor

Peter Landowski wrote:
>
> The "J" heads were the WORST flowing Olds heads for the big block. "J"
> stand for JUNK. Don't get it... It's probably a butchered motor.
> Pettrix@prodigy.net

NO WAY!!! $500 for a whole car with a 455 is a good deal by any stretch.
Heck, for about half of what you'll pay for the car, you can get a
decent set of heads from somebody on the list and slap a lopey cam in!!!
I'd buy it!

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
         777777 33333
            77      33
Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
          77        33
         77     33333
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1998 23:37:37 EDT
From: <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Fittings for bypass of proportion valve needed

Im trying to bypass my proportion valve to the rear brakes. I would like to
use a union from the line of the master to the line that feeds the rear. It
seems to be a very odd ball size i have gone to several places. My lines are
all stainless steel so i cant cut and flare. By the way im trying to add an
adjustable proport. valve. Thanks in advance

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1998 23:54:50 -0400
From: Ken <olds442@en.com>
Subject: Re: 455 motor

Peter Landowski wrote:

> The "J" heads were the WORST flowing Olds heads for the big block. "J"
> stand for JUNK. Don't get it... It's probably a butchered motor.
> Pettrix@prodigy.net

 I had a set of Mondello ported 2.07/1.71 "J"(unk) heads on a motor with stock
hi compression pistons and w-30 cam..  Dyno said 470hp.  It depends on who
worked em, not the letter cast into em..

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1998 21:30:16 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Heads

Roger Nienberg wrote:

> I called Jegs catalog to ask them about the Eldelbrock heads

First thought for you. I've been on the list for heads since December of 97.
The first 50 sets are supposed to ship on the 31. They were supposed to make
150 in the first run, and you can see they have only gotten 1/3 of them this
close to shipping. If you can wait a year on the heads, then order them now.
Otherwise get something else until Edelbrick gets their heads out of their a$$
and decides not to push Olds back on the production for a pair of ch*vy heads.
It's been delayed 4 months now because they find ch*vy to be more important.

> and they said
> they work but they must be machined to make the ports match up right,  Is
> this true



> Eldelbrock has aluminum heads that will work.....one catch , you have to
> use the #7111 Preformer RPM Intake because the heads are intended for use
> on a 455, your compression will aslo drop a few points depending on your
> pistons.

Aside from matching the intake to the heads you also have to open up the bolt
holes for the 350 bolts. after spending 1400+ on a set of heads and then
several hundred more to make them work on a 350, I'm not certain I could
justify spending that much money. You will also need a different length push
rod and recommended new roller/roller tip rocker arms and headers. the heads
along with their cam and intake on a 455 make 446 hp and 535 ft/lbs.Food for
thought. You should check out http://www.edelbrock.com for any other
particulars. There is a good amount of info on the heads. Good luck!

Ben
62 Olds F-85 (for sale   http://www.primenet.com/~olds442/forsale.html
68 Olds 442 (project- street/strip )

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 00:31:43 EDT
From: <Cnvrt67@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 455 motor

In a message dated 98-07-26 23:35:57 EDT, you write:

<< Peter Landowski wrote:
 >
 > The "J" heads were the WORST flowing Olds heads for the big block. "J"
 > stand for JUNK. Don't get it... It's probably a butchered motor.
 > Pettrix@prodigy.net >>


How can you just assume its a butchered motor because it has j heads??? i
think that is a very unfair statement. you have no way of knowing until you
actually hear it run for yourself. My .02

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 00:39:04 -0400
From: Bill Gochenour <gochenow@stjohns.edu>
Subject: 1983 Olds Delta 88

For sale: 1983 Olds Delta 88 four door, tan with brown cloth interior.
Super clean & strong 307 V-8, milage is about 73,000, this motor runs
great! If I was looking for a used Olds 307, this would be it! Interior
overall condition is very clean, however, the body is not in the best of
shape. This car runs & drives fine, if anyone is interested in the car
or any specific parts, let me know. The car will "parted" if nobody
wants the whole thing. I"ll do digital pics of any area or part you want
to see. For more information contact me directly at -
mailto:gochenow@stjohns.edu

- --

Bill !

1986 442 "The Perfect 10"                     _           _       ___
     Mobile Electronics Show Car            /  |        /  |    /  _  \
1983 Hurst/Olds 15th Anniversary Edition  /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
     100th Centennial Celebration #2218 /  / | |_   /  / | |_      /  /
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z-34             |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__
				             |_|         |_|   |_______|


		* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
		* Comming Soon----->3STICKS.com *
		* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

        http://area51.stjohns.edu/~toychest     (updated 7/15/98)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 00:39:13 -0400
From: "Steve C" <cutlass@frontiernet.net>
Subject: [none]

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDB8F6.FA353AE0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I own a 1985 Oldsmobile 442 that I picked up with the motor out of the =
car. I have recently just finished completly rebuilding the 307 and I =
have one problem. I am not sure where all the engine brackets go on the =
car ( alt, ps, ac) anybody who may have diagrams or photos please help =
me I need to know how these install on the motor.=20

                                                                         =
       Thank You

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDB8F6.FA353AE0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I own a 1985 Oldsmobile 442 that I =
picked up=20
with the motor out of the car. I have recently just finished completly=20
rebuilding the 307 and I have one problem. I am not sure where all the =
engine=20
brackets go on the car ( alt, ps, ac) anybody who may have diagrams or =
photos=20
please help me I need to know how these install on the motor. =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000=20
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
Thank You</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDB8F6.FA353AE0--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1998 23:35:42 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile dealer ship sign

Yes, Brent, the page looks much better now...  Everything seems to be working
perfectly now.  I agree, someone ~did~ get themselves a great find.  Oh, by the
way, you ~might~ want to double check the torque on the lug nuts for that 
ragtop
ya got out there...   Looks like that back wheel has some...  uh...  
~alignment~
problems...


(Actually, looks more like the SSI rim stuck up against the shell to look
halfway complete....  One of ~my~ favorite tricks!!!  :)

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1998 23:55:41 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: New burnout page

>   Hi Gang,
>          I've just put up a burn out page,anybody got any pics

I feel bad, I don't have any pics of that.  I ~do~ have a video of me racing a
Poncho, who does quite a smokeshow...  Kicked his @$$....  Anyway, about the
page....  umm......    Where is it???  :)

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 02:07:56 -0500
From: C&C <cc@photon.soltec.net>
Subject: 1987 Cutless Ciera SL Brougham info needed

I'm looking for information about the 1987 Cutless Ciera SL Brougham.
Specifically, promotional info, sales figures, available options,
especially wheel options, or in general, anything you might have. Can
anyone help?

Kregg


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 03:21:14 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Fw: Free stock, this is not a joke

Guys, I know that this isn't related in any way to Oldsmobiles, but I felt
that it should be listed.


>This company called Travelzoo is going public.  To make themselves look
>good, they are giving away 700,000 free shares of stock.  If you go to
their
>website, they will give you 3 shares, free.  Do this:  go to
>http://travelzoo.com/online.asp  and click on "become a co-owner."  Click
on
>continue a few times, then enter your e-mail address.  They will e-mail you
>back in a few minutes with an address and a pin number.  Go to the address
>and type in the PIN.  Where it asks for "Reference E-mail*:" type in
>Spork98@Hotmail.com  (that is my email address)
>
>No money is involved, no credit card numbers, etc.  Go get your free stock,
>just tell them my email address for reference.  Thanks.
>
>Yahoo did the same thing when they went public.  Yahoo stock is like $180 a
>share now.


Ben Berusch

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 01:33:32 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: More TV Olds

Watched some drags over the weekend.  Notice some purple 67 Nova racing.
Wouldn't have paid any attention to it, (being a che*y) but they made a ~big~
deal about his "Grinch" engine...  The one stealing everyone else's dreams...
Yank yank...  I think to myself...  Until they start showing it, and explaining
it as a 650+ cid Oldsmobile!  Made me wish I'd have paid a little more
attention!  So, he's ready to run against Pat Musi in the semifinals...  but
cannot run because he put a hole in his #5 piston on the run before...  I was
cussin.....  Kinda wanted to see him stick it to that @#$!%$#%-green cam*ro...

More:

Watched Animal House this afternoon...  The censorred version, on TNT... but I
watched anyway...   They're taking their "dates" to see Otis, and bump into a
few cars in the parking lot...  I notice this ~sweet~ 57 Buick in the
background, 2door, light blue, Special (I think)...  Think to myself how glad I
was they didn't hit it...  Of course they pushed it about five feet leaving...
I screamed.  Later, during the parade, they show an Olds storefront, and later
show a car flying through the storefront, into a 63 Olds (probably a Ninety
Eight, but couldn't tell) pushing it across the showroom...  Ouch..  I almost
cried.....  But I got some pleasure out of what they did to that lincoln... ;)

Non Olds...  Did anybody else start laughing when they heard this Westin (White
House Shooting guy) had a cabin in Montana???    I sure did...  Especially they
way they said it.....   At first, when details were sketchy, the reporters were
passing on all the speculations...  "Blah blah blah blah...  yadda yadda
yadda....  blah blah....  and I ~hear~ he has a cabin in the hills in
Montana..."  I about lost it!  Laughed my a** off about that!   Turns out to be
true, though, and his cabin was only miles from the Unibomber's cabin...

Must be something in the water....  Good thing I drink beer!  ;)


- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 03:13:21 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 455 motor

It's not only the heads. The heads are very POOR flowing heads. The worst
flowing 455 heads that were made. The motor combination that was described
sounded like the guy selling the motor doesn't even know what's in the
motor. I've seen alot of mutilations on Olds motors and the description
given sounded like the guyselling it for $500.00 was overpriced. The motor
is probably worth the core itself, nothing more.......
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Cnvrt67@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 455 motor
> Date: Sunday, July 26, 1998 11:31 PM
>
> In a message dated 98-07-26 23:35:57 EDT, you write:
>
> << Peter Landowski wrote:
>  >
>  > The "J" heads were the WORST flowing Olds heads for the big block. "J"
>  > stand for JUNK. Don't get it... It's probably a butchered motor.
>  > Pettrix@prodigy.net >>
>
>
> How can you just assume its a butchered motor because it has j heads??? i
> think that is a very unfair statement. you have no way of knowing until
you
> actually hear it run for yourself. My .02
>
> Brent
> 1967 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 03:15:50 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 455 motor

Sure that's true. I meant that STOCK, UNTOUCHED, these heads flowed bad. A
STOCK "C" head will outflow a STOCK "J" head anyday. A full port and polish
job on ANYHEAD will make it flow good. I meant STOCK, these heads flowed
bad, not redone.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Ken <olds442@en.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 455 motor
> Date: Sunday, July 26, 1998 10:54 PM
>
>
>
> Peter Landowski wrote:
>
> > The "J" heads were the WORST flowing Olds heads for the big block. "J"
> > stand for JUNK. Don't get it... It's probably a butchered motor.
> > Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>  I had a set of Mondello ported 2.07/1.71 "J"(unk) heads on a motor with
stock
> hi compression pistons and w-30 cam..  Dyno said 470hp.  It depends on
who
> worked em, not the letter cast into em..

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 06:50:41 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '56 Olds Hood Trim FS

Not on the list; reply to tmartin@empnet.com if interested.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"THOM MARTIN" <tmartin@empnet.com>
Subject: hood ornament

56 olds hood globe disk and bar ring chrome holder in the GM box. Never =
used.  Who wants it?
tmartin@empnet.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 06:52:55 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 455 Tuning

Not currently on the list; respond to patrickd@wwnet.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"patrick derkacz" <patrickd@wwnet.com>
Subject: DMR event-455 tuning

I am getting the '69 442 conv. ready for the DMR event in august at Norwalk
and being the novice that I am I need some advice on setting this thing up.

First, I have a Holley 750 DP that is running very rich.  Can someone please
give a step by step of setting this correctly?

Also,   I just set the timing, after replacing the cam, so it has about 10
degrees initial(at idle w/o vacuum advance hooked up) and about 35 under
load(about 4000 rpm w/ vacuum advance hooked up-HEI).  Is this right?
Again, any suggestions would be appreciated.

How do you know if your distributor is curved right?  Do you change it by
changing the springs in the distributor?  How can you tell if you need
heavier or lighter springs?

I appreciate all reponses because I know I don't jack and it would probably
take me years to figure out what the list members can  tell me overnight.

Before the race what should I go through?  Should I replace and gap the
plugs? .045 right?  I just changed the oil and topped off the trans fluid
and plan on checking the rear end fluid.  Am I missing anything?

I hope my damn e-mail is working because I will be pissed if I miss any
responses.(its been snafu since last week and my ISP now has voice mail for
tech support, you leave a message and they are supposed to call you back, I
called friday and no call back yet, they are about to lose a customer, so I
suppose I may not even know if this goes out)
>
>patrickd@wwnet.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 08:58:18 -0400
From: "Paul L. Fikaris" <fikaris@en.com>
Subject: Re: 79 442 Fastback?????

Anyway, his kid found this Hot Wheels car.  Labelled as 78,
>called "FlatOut 442"    Fastback, yellow, ground effects, sponsor stickers,
>~big~ 442 on doors...  79 Grille, little hood scoop, kinda cool...
Different.
>Any sightings???
>

I've seen one slightly damaged copy of this on the floor of the pre-school
at my Church. I checked it out once, it's pretty well beat on. Maybe I
should buy them a slew of new ones in exchange!   0:-)

Paul L. Fikaris
fikaris@en.com
69 Delta 88 Conv 455
OCA #30353

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 09:01:55 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@leadbelt.com
Subject: Bad (bolt) break

A comedy of errors----

A few weeks ago, in the process of doing some engine mods ('68 350), I broke
a water pump bolt off in the block.

My next step was to purchase a pricey MATCO bolt extractor kit. I put in one
of the left-handed drill bits and started drilling. In less than a minute,
the bit broke. I muttered a few obscenities, and then was able to get the
piece of bit out with needle-nosed pliers.

Oh well, there was now a hole in the bolt so inserted the matched extractor.
A couple turns on the extractor--- and that SOB broke off in the bolt. So
much for good tools.

In the mean time, I have been doing other engine work between frustrated
efforts at drilling out the extractor.  It surely must be made of hard
material. Drill bits won't penetrate it; they mererly polish the end of it.

By now, I have all other assembly complete. The cooling system is the only
thing between me and an operational vehicle (I think, hope, etc). If it
weren't for the fact that this particular bolt hole is for the stud that
also mounts the power steering, I would be tempted to fill the hole with
something & just mount the water pump one bolt shy. I would really like to
have the power steering unit functional & in its proper place. ( I know,
people in hell want ice water.)

Anybody have any advice, tips, similar experiences successfully resolved?

TIA for any and all help, sympathy, whatever.

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 10:37:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: 455 -Brakes Wont Hold

In doing some testing on a local road I discovered that the brakes (new)
wont hold the vehicle at a stop beyond about 1700 rpm...starts slowly
rolling forward.. not a good thing at the track.. suggestions welcome.



Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 07:24:24 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Bad (bolt) break

well I have never broken an easy out off in the bolt .  but you could use a
carbide drill bit to drill a whole in that then heat the bolt with a torch
get it very hot be careful around the t-chain and stuff then tap in another
easy out the heat should take the temper out of the other one
then while everything is still hot try backing the thing out.

p.s.

dont know if this will work but it is worth a shot.

the only other thing that I can think of is use the torch blow it out with
the cutting torch then retap the hole.

Good luck....kk

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 09:39:58 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: trans, what should i do?

Dear List Members,

As some of you may remember I purchased a 68 cutlass s conv. a while ago.
I had bad luck when I picked it up because the trailer I used did not
pull it and we had to put it in storage (400 miles away...). I am getting
ready to pull it with my own car, the l*nc*ln, ordered a hitch, and a
rental trailer.

From the last try to pick the car up I brought an extra trans. the seller
gave me. He said the trans in the car is shot and this one will fit and
should be okay.
I want to start doing something and I thought it may be a good idea to
redo this trans no matter if it runs or not. What do you think? Is
redoing it right away a good idea, or should I put it in and run it?
Since I plan a total restauration I would want to have the car in a
reliable condition.
I don't have the specs/numbers on the tranny with me here, but I will
post that in another question, to find out if the thing fits original setup.

Restore it right away? Or wait what it will do in the car?

Thanks for your suggestions,

George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
'77 L*nc*ln Continental
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 10:40:35 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: Alero Information

Edmunds has information on there WEB site for the 99 Olds Alero, price,
specs, and a review.

The URL is: http://www.edmunds.com/edweb/cars/Oldsmobile/718.99.html


Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the...Past

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 10:42:50 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Bolt patterns

...The 5L40-E is a 4L40-E with another gear in the middle...

Steve Ochs
______________

Steve,

Is this one of those deals where they magically got an extra gear by
engaging the overdrive gear in first or second?  I seem to recall that
Toyota did something like this.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 10:49:17 EDT
From: <ALKlug@aol.com>
Subject: Un-subscribe

Please un-subscribe oldsmobile.
Thank you

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 10:54:18 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: WANTED: 442 Conv. Frame

Is the '68 4-4-2 hardtop frame too different from the convertible
frame to be modified for a convertible body?
__________________

Sorry if this has been answered already, but the answer is yes, the
convertible frame is very different from the HT frame.  Convertibles used
fully boxed frame rails, while HTs used an open, "C" section frame aft of
the firewall.  The open frame won't have the stiffness necessary for use in
a convertible.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 10:59:21 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Posi Q

I have a 67 cutlass convertible. Now, a 65 or 66 posi will also bolt up to
my car?...

Brent
_________

This has been discussed a lot over the last few days, but I haven't seen an
answer to the original question.  The rear end as a unit _will_ swap into a
67.  All 64-67 cars used a rear axle about an inch narrower than those in
the 68-72 cars.  In addition, the control arms on the early cars were
slightly different from those on the later cars.  As was noted, the spring
perches are also different, but the springs will work anyway.  Just be sure
that you're swapping the entire rear end housing - simply swapping the posi
carrier will likely not work.

Note that there may also be some differences in the U-joint and the
driveshaft length.  Be sure to check these also.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 11:05:22 -0400
From: Bill Gochenour <gochenow@stjohns.edu>
Subject: Re: Bad (bolt) break

hitson@leadbelt.com wrote:
>
> A comedy of errors----
>
> A few weeks ago, in the process of doing some engine mods ('68 350), I broke
> a water pump bolt off in the block.
>
> My next step was to purchase a pricey MATCO bolt extractor kit. I put in one
> of the left-handed drill bits and started drilling. In less than a minute,
> the bit broke. I muttered a few obscenities, and then was able to get the
> piece of bit out with needle-nosed pliers.
>
> Oh well, there was now a hole in the bolt so inserted the matched extractor.
> A couple turns on the extractor--- and that SOB broke off in the bolt. So
> much for good tools.
>
> In the mean time, I have been doing other engine work between frustrated
> efforts at drilling out the extractor.  It surely must be made of hard
> material. Drill bits won't penetrate it; they mererly polish the end of it.
>
> By now, I have all other assembly complete. The cooling system is the only
> thing between me and an operational vehicle (I think, hope, etc). If it
> weren't for the fact that this particular bolt hole is for the stud that
> also mounts the power steering, I would be tempted to fill the hole with
> something & just mount the water pump one bolt shy. I would really like to
> have the power steering unit functional & in its proper place. ( I know,
> people in hell want ice water.)
>
> Anybody have any advice, tips, similar experiences successfully resolved?
>
> TIA for any and all help, sympathy, whatever.
>
> roger hitson
- -------------


I also forgot to mention the most important thing besides sing the
torch. The screw extractor I used was from Vermont American, it wasn't
they standard reverse thread type. This type was a square shape that
tapered to a point, after drilling the recomended size hole you hammer
it in. The beauty of this is it grips from the four sharp corners and
you can work it back and forth until the threads free up. Remember,
DON'T heat the bolt or the area around it with the extractor in place,
the hardened steel extractor will get brittle. Bang it in after the
whole area is real HOT!

Good luck !

- --

Bill !

1986 Cutlass 442 "The Perfect 10"             _           _       ___
     Mobile Electronics Show Car            /  |        /  |    /  _  \
1983 Hurst/Olds 15th Anniversary Edition  /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
     Oldsmobile 100th Centennial # 2218 /  / | |_   /  / | |_      /  /
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z-34             |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__
1997 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Z-34		     |_|         |_|   
|_______|

		* * * * * * * * *
		* COMING  SOON  * --------> www.3STICKS.com
		* * * * * * * * *

	http://area51.stjohns.edu/~toychest     (updated 7/9/98)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 07:56:27 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: 455 -Brakes Wont Hold

that is the stall speed try a higher stall speed convertor
- -----Original Message-----
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, July 27, 1998 7:41 AM
Subject: 455 -Brakes Wont Hold


>
>In doing some testing on a local road I discovered that the brakes (new)
>wont hold the vehicle at a stop beyond about 1700 rpm...starts slowly
>rolling forward.. not a good thing at the track.. suggestions welcome.
>
>
>
>Al Varhus
>Columbus, Ohio
>http://www.infinet.com/~avar
>http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
>Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
>  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
>  Gem City Rockets
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 10:11:07 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: 455 -Brakes Wont Hold

And your problem is???  If you have a stock converter this can be expected.
When flooring the gas while holding the brake certain things may happen
depending on your vehicle/engine combo.  1.  The car will move forward.(more
engine than car)  2. One or both rear tires may start spinning.(typical)  3.
The engine rpms do not go past the converter stall speed. (heavy car small
engine).  In your case you will have to limit the engine rpms at the line so
you don't roll through the lights or spend more money to prevent this.  A
looser converter (higher stall) will let you see more rpms before the car
moves but also builds up heat faster.  It is also less efficient on the
street.  A trans. brake would be a logical choice if you are doing lots of
racing.  They lock the tranny in reverse while you have it in first gear which
keeps the car from moving while you floor the gas pedal.  When you release the
button the tranny comes out of reverse and the car leaps forward in first.
Another source of excess heat.  I doubt your brakes are really bad, you are
just over powering them.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 11:12:18 -0400
From: Bill Gochenour <gochenow@stjohns.edu>
Subject: Re: Bad (bolt) break

hitson@leadbelt.com wrote:
>
> A comedy of errors----
>
> A few weeks ago, in the process of doing some engine mods ('68 350), I broke
> a water pump bolt off in the block.
>
> My next step was to purchase a pricey MATCO bolt extractor kit. I put in one
> of the left-handed drill bits and started drilling. In less than a minute,
> the bit broke. I muttered a few obscenities, and then was able to get the
> piece of bit out with needle-nosed pliers.
>
> Oh well, there was now a hole in the bolt so inserted the matched extractor.
> A couple turns on the extractor--- and that SOB broke off in the bolt. So
> much for good tools.
>
> In the mean time, I have been doing other engine work between frustrated
> efforts at drilling out the extractor.  It surely must be made of hard
> material. Drill bits won't penetrate it; they mererly polish the end of it.
>
> By now, I have all other assembly complete. The cooling system is the only
> thing between me and an operational vehicle (I think, hope, etc). If it
> weren't for the fact that this particular bolt hole is for the stud that
> also mounts the power steering, I would be tempted to fill the hole with
> something & just mount the water pump one bolt shy. I would really like to
> have the power steering unit functional & in its proper place. ( I know,
> people in hell want ice water.)
>
> Anybody have any advice, tips, similar experiences successfully resolved?
>
> TIA for any and all help, sympathy, whatever.
>
> roger hitson

This weekend I pulled the 2.8 motor (198,800 miles) from 1985 Blazer in
order to work like a gentleman while doing some gaskets and a real main
seal. Only to find two broken exhaust manifold bolts and, in the process
breaking one more myself, and, an exhast flange bolt in the process. I
broke several screw extractors and drill bits also, I got them out by
starting with a real small drill (NEW and SHARP) bit and Liguid Wrench
to keep the tip cool. Also, heat up the broken bolt and surrounding area
with a torch until it super hot then insert the extractor and work it.

The worst one took three hours to remove, but it was entirely worth it.
Stick with it!

- --

Bill !

1986 Cutlass 442 "The Perfect 10"             _           _       ___
     Mobile Electronics Show Car            /  |        /  |    /  _  \
1983 Hurst/Olds 15th Anniversary Edition  /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
     Oldsmobile 100th Centennial # 2218 /  / | |_   /  / | |_      /  /
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z-34             |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__
1997 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Z-34		     |_|         |_|   
|_______|

		* * * * * * * * *
		* COMING  SOON  * --------> www.3STICKS.com
		* * * * * * * * *

	http://area51.stjohns.edu/~toychest     (updated 7/9/98)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 11:10:20 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Do Not Need 1965-7 (??) early pattern flywheel for 425

In a message dated 98-07-27 10:22:01 EDT, you write:

Thanks much for the offer Joe!

<< padavano.joe@orbital.com  (work)
 joe_padavano@orbital.com  (home)  >>

Knew there was _some_ reason I could not recall his addresse off-hand.....

<<  [hole in battery]  >>

Pretty embarrassing really.

Problem is my multitester is WWII-era and reads about 1.5 volts low on 50 volt
scale. So I thought....well, looks like a 9....darn tester...well battery must
be good...I hotwired the starter yesterday.

Karl was too frustrated to give much thought to the very fresh (brightly-
colored) corrosion on battery holder.  :(

So Karl went and exchanged starter. But new starter is a poor fit for a
correct starter. 0, 1, 2, then three shims, and pinion gear still sticks in
flexplate after attempted start.

Karl tried using batt charger on Jump Start setting.
(now that it is too late to power good starter that I exchanged)
Get only reluctant *wuhr*

Karl truly frustrated. Has towed to mechs. Late Wednesday.

Thursday.
Mechs backlogged from Wednesday, will know later, prolly flexplate, they
preping to test starter.
After work, discovering local South Shore Line.
Too occupied, then unable to call mechs.

Fiday. Get batt story. Hole in bottom.
Oh.
So losing charge, drop by drop.
Ah....

Well I would like to expound on Kantian philosophy, but I gotta go drag a
battery and yet another starter to my mechs....and call the corporate office
of that auto parts place ang try to get back that core that I exchanged....
Cause the local store shipped the cores out early Saturday.....
*sigh*.......

On the other hand....I have a lead on a 1966 Starfire for $900...

....mmmmm......dual daily drivers......

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 11:16:49 -0400
From: tgstoner@umich.edu
Subject: RE: 79 442 Fastback?????

On Fri, 24 Jul 1998 Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com> wrote:
> OK, our salesman has this knack for finding cool stuff...  Actually, I
~think~
> it's called kids...  Anyway, his kid found this Hot Wheels car.  Labelled
 as
> 78, called "FlatOut 442"    Fastback, yellow, ground effects, sponsor
stickers,
> ~big~ 442 on doors...  79 Grille, little hood scoop, kinda cool...
Different.
> Any sightings???

*****************
Got one, but mine's painted orange rather than yellow.  Bought it way back
when and it's been played with occasionally by the nephew-types, but is
still in pretty good shape.

Tom Stoner
Oldsmobile Club of America #3943
Ann Arbor, MI
tgstoner@umich.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 10:28:07 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: Posi Q

Wouldn't this also change the pinion angle?  I thought I remember
reading here that the pinion angle wouldn't be the same.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others
>
>I have a 67 cutlass convertible. Now, a 65 or 66 posi will also bolt up to
>my car?...
>
>Brent
>_________
>
>This has been discussed a lot over the last few days, but I haven't seen an
>answer to the original question.  The rear end as a unit _will_ swap into a
>67.  All 64-67 cars used a rear axle about an inch narrower than those in
>the 68-72 cars.  In addition, the control arms on the early cars were
>slightly different from those on the later cars.  As was noted, the spring
>perches are also different, but the springs will work anyway.  Just be sure
>that you're swapping the entire rear end housing - simply swapping the posi
>carrier will likely not work.
>
>Note that there may also be some differences in the U-joint and the
>driveshaft length.  Be sure to check these also.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>70 W-30
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 11:28:01 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Fittings for bypass of proportion valve needed

Im trying to bypass my proportion valve to the rear brakes. I would like to
use a union from the line of the master to the line that feeds the rear. It
seems to be a very odd ball size i have gone to several places. My lines
are
all stainless steel so i cant cut and flare. By the way im trying to add an
adjustable proport. valve. Thanks in advance
___________________

What you've suggested will work (just don't forget the adjustable
proportioning valve), however be aware that the brake pressure warning
light will no longer function properly.  The switch for this light is built
into the combination valve (I assume you have a 71-later car, otherwise
this is not the case) and senses a differential in pressure between the
front and rear brake circuits.  If you bypass the valve, the switch will
think that you've lost pressure in the rear brake circuit and the light
will stay on.  If you simply want to eliminate the light (and thus the
warning function), pull the electrical connector off of the combination
valve.  After doing this, the light will still function to indicate that
the e-brake is on, but you will obviously lose the brake pressure warning
function.

As for the fittings, as you've noted, GM used unique, non-standard flare
nuts on the lines to preclude the chance of misconnections on the assembly
line.  Find an auto parts store which is well-stocked in adapters (they're
out there) and have at it.

Also, if you feel you'd like to retain the brake pressure warning function,
replace your combination valve with the distribution block from a drum
brake car.  This block has the pressure warning switch, but no
proportioning valve.  Then, simply plumb the new adjustable proportioning
valve into the line going to the rear brakes.  This is actually how the
67-70 disc brake cars are plumbed.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 11:33:23 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: RE: Posi Q

Wouldn't this also change the pinion angle?  I thought I remember
reading here that the pinion angle wouldn't be the same.

Chris Smetana
_________________

Yes, you are correct.  Due to the different control arm lengths and
different mounting points on the axle housing, swapping a later (68-72)
axle into an early (64-67) car, or vice-versa, will change the pinion
angle.  So long as you stay within family, however, this shouldn't be a
problem.   The only exception is that there were some early Chevelles with
unique upper arms.  I don't know how this effects the mounting points on
the axle housing, however.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 10:59:06 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: great day at the junqueyard

Well folks, I went to a junkyard Sat and did very well.  They somewhat
recently got in a 72 Supreme with a 70 rear bumper, the car was in a
flood.  Someone already beat me to the disc brake setup, auto console
and tilt wheel, but they forgot those disc brake hose frame
brackets....so I took them, just in case.  I also grabbed the ~mint~
flat hood for $30.  Well, except for the mud it is mint.  I also took
the 3 SSII/III wheels for $10 each, along with the floor shifter, cable
which still works and the bracket which mounts on the trans.  Also some
misc bolts for the water pump mounting, p/s mounting and valve covers
and finally the rear 70 supreme lenses.  There was also a 71 S sitting
there.  It is the same car that was there a year ago May...AND it was
still in the same condition more or less when I took parts from it.  The
only major thing missing was the gauges, although someone was very
curtious in removing them, didn't destroy the dash.  But the 71 still
had the pair of SSIII on the front, rear axle was torched off the car
before I was there last time.  Unfortunately one rim was rusted to the
drum and wouldn't budge, even after several blows with a sledge.  After
realizing the wheel wasn't coming off, the guy at the yard gave it one
final blow and left a nice dent but it still wouldn't move.  So I
lowered my jack and the wheel came off  D'OH!!!!   I actually tried that
once before but it didn't work, oh well.  So I just took the one rim.  I
also picked up a coil bracket, cranckcase vent pipe and the piece I
thought I would never find, the little clip that goes on the passenger
valve cover that the steel vacuum modulator pipe attaches to.  Very
important when doing a nut and bolt resto as I plan on with my W-31.  So
for the grand sum of $100 I feel I did very well.  There are still a few
other misc items I'm thinking very seriously of getting off these cars
and if anyone else is looking for something special let me know, I may
go down there again in a couple weeks.  Both cars are 350 auto with a/c
and the motors are very close to complete.  The bumpers on both cars are
not straight but would make excellent cores to be rechromed as they are
not rusted out yet.  Don't ask about sheetmetal though, unless it a non
common patch or something special as they are both rusted heavily in the
rear and in some of the usual spots in front.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 12:07:51 EDT
From: <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  455 -Brakes Wont Hold

Al,

U don't state whether Disc or Drum up front.
Either shld hold ya well beyond 1700 rpm. If disc check fluid
in M/C to verify not low in either chamber. If power asst. your
booster could be leaking vacuum thus not putting proper push
to fluid to front or rear.

Just a couple of thoughts.

Rgds,
Rob Thomas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 09:36:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Spark plug question

  My guess is that you probably saw light reflecting off of the plugs.
 Maybe from a nearby street light or even just from the moon.  It
doesn't take much light to make white objects "glow" in the dark.
Either that or there is something seriously wrong with your plugs.
I've never heard of spark plugs giving off light, unless you have it
out of the engine, where you'd see the spark.  Most likely just light
reflecting tho.

Hope this helps,
          Stefan
          1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 08:25:53 EDT
From: <SOMMERVLLE@aol.com>
Subject: engine degreaser

hey list:
just got a motor and it is a mess!!!! Need thge name of that degreaser that
went around the list a couple of weeks ago. To see if it really works that
good. was iy gumout or stp? thanks chris

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 12:46:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Re: 455 -Brakes Wont Hold

On Mon, 27 Jul 1998, David L Wyatt wrote:

> And your problem is???  If you have a stock converter this can be expected.

This is not a stock coverter.. It is a 2500-2800 converter (or so I was
led to believe) It seems that it is more a brake problem as it seems the
engine is overpowering them.. no tire squeal.. the car just slowly moves
(very slowly but defintely noticeable) forward as if the brakes are not
sufficient..


Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 12:58:56 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Date:	Mon, 27 Jul 1998 12:58:56 -0400

Howdy fellow list people

Would it be possible for all the local Ontario'ians, to speak up
I am trying to get and idea of how many List members are from the area.
If you could E me private it would probably be easier.

Thanks

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 13:15:12 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: engine degreaser

>hey list:
>just got a motor and it is a mess!!!! Need thge name of that degreaser that
went around the list a couple of weeks ago. To see if it really works that
good. was iy gumout or stp? thanks chris

Chris,

You may be referring to Castrol Super Clean.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 13:20:42 EDT
From: <RICH6986@aol.com>
Subject: mass olds show

not to long ago someone mentioned something about a show in massachusettes and
in know its in northampton but i cant remember the date and if its a show or a
swap meet      thanx for any help
Rich
81,82,85 cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 13:52:53 -0400
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@pa.net>
Subject: 69 Cutlass S   FS

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0072_01BDB965.D9F3A220
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

1969 Cutlass S For Sale
South Central PA near Gettysburg

Original Motor ... Completely rebuilt by myself and Machine shop
                          Runs like a top ... and quick
                          Edlebrock intake and 650 CFM Carb
                         =20
Fresh Paint :  Spectre Red
SS2 With correct centers and inserts ... like new TAs
Hedman Headers, Thrush Muffler ... 2.5 inch=20
New Upholstry and Carpet
New Headliner, correct for year being installed next week
NO BONDO ... new metal thru-out

$ 4500 Negotiable

Wife says ... sell this one or the 66 442 ... I'm bleeding on this one.

Ken Swick
swickka@pa.net

- ------=_NextPart_000_0072_01BDB965.D9F3A220
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>1969 Cutlass S For Sale</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>South Central =
PA near=20
Gettysburg</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Original Motor ... Completely rebuilt by myself and =
Machine=20
shop</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT=20
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
Runs like a top ... and quick</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT=20
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
Edlebrock intake and 650 CFM Carb</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT=20
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Fresh Paint :&nbsp; Spectre Red</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>SS2 With correct centers and inserts ... like new=20
TAs</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hedman Headers, Thrush Muffler ... 2.5 =
inch&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>New Upholstry and Carpet</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>New Headliner, =
correct for=20
year being installed next week</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>NO BONDO ... new metal thru-out</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>$ 4500 Negotiable</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Wife says ... sell this one or the 66 442 ... I'm =
bleeding on=20
this one.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Ken Swick<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:swickka@pa.net">swickka@pa.net</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HT=
ML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0072_01BDB965.D9F3A220--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 14:21:50 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: trans, what should i do?

In a message dated 98-07-27 10:43:16 EDT, you write:

<< I don't have the specs/numbers on the tranny with me here, but I will
 post that in another question, to find out if the thing fits original setup.

 Restore it right away? Or wait what it will do in the car?

 Thanks for your suggestions,

 George >>

George,
      If you feel like pulling it out again in the near future, by all means
slap it in there. Depending how often you use it, it may still have some miles
left in it. But if it doesn't....well, they aren't exactly fun to pull
sometimes. What trans is it? If you feel like rebuilding it yourself, you
should be able to get the parts for less than $200. If he says it was good, I
would try and run it. Worst that can happen is it doesn't work. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 14:32:51 EDT
From: <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Fittings for bypass of proportion valve needed

thanks joe im aware of the light deal and really dont care much about it
usually by the time the light goes on you know you have a problem.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 14:37:54 EDT
From: <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 455 -Brakes Wont Hold

In a message dated 7/27/98, 10:41:54 AM, oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca writes:
<<In doing some testing on a local road I discovered that the brakes (new)
wont hold the vehicle at a stop beyond about 1700 rpm...starts slowly
rolling forward.. not a good thing at the track.. suggestions welcome.>>
Are you sure they are not holding. I found my front  wheels are locked but
sliding,it felt like they were turning. What kind of rear tires are you
running??size type etc, are you tubbed?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 14:39:34 EDT
From: <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 455 -Brakes Wont Hold

In a message dated 7/27/98, 10:41:54 AM, oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca writes:
<<In doing some testing on a local road I discovered that the brakes (new)
wont hold the vehicle at a stop beyond about 1700 rpm...starts slowly
rolling forward.. not a good thing at the track.. suggestions welcome.>>
Also what size front tires do you have and what kind of brakes. Have you
thought about adding a adjustable proportion valve to the rear to get those
rears to spin a little easier

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 14:45:39 -0700
From: "Joe Carey" <jcatgktw@email.msn.com>
Subject: Glowing spark plugs

I was reading a magazine last month and they were talking about how it is
common for spark plugs to glow.  This of course is only noticed at night or
in a dark garage.  There is nothing wrong with that it is a natural
phenomenon.

Joe
87 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 14:49:48 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: How much timing to use?

Greg,
	I'm not too knowledgeable about the Mallory units, but 45-50
deg. of advance is way too high. Your 350 should be tuned to no more
than 35 deg. and that's a lot. Usually 30 deg. does it. I too have my
initial timing set to 14deg at 1100. This should yield a final timing of
30 deg. I experiencing a limiting from the vac. canister. It's a stock
'77 dist. so the vac. canister is limited for pollution control.
Something that I will have to change. Question, how do you know you have
325HP? What are your engine spec's.? Just curious, as I also have a 350
4BBl, but have no clue what kind of HP. A mondello cam...etc. Let me
know.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Gregory Zimmerman [SMTP:zimmermangm@email.msn.com]
> Sent:	Sunday, July 26, 1998 11:44 AM
> To:	Olds list
> Subject:	How much timing to use?
>
> I found out that the vacuum advance diaphragm was blown out of my
> Mallory Unilite distributor.  Now that it is fixed, I'm wondering how
> much advance Olds engines use.
>
> I have a 350 with about 325HP (mild cam, 4bbl, intake, etc.)  I'm
> currently running 14 degrees at idle, with the engine revved up, the
> mechanical kicks in another 26 (as set with the stepped Mallory key),
> then the vacuum is adjusted to minimum advance (screw in all the way),
> for a grand total of around 45-50 degrees.  I think this is too much.
>
> Should I have less mechanical and then add more vacuum advance?  I'm
> totally clueless as to how much each should be.  I'm not getting any
> detonation, but I'm sure there's some horsepower I'm not getting.
>
> -greg
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 14:58:26 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: RE: How much timing to use?

> -----Original Message-----
> From:   Gregory Zimmerman [SMTP:zimmermangm@email.msn.com]
> Sent:   Sunday, July 26, 1998 11:44 AM
> To:     Olds list
> Subject:     How much timing to use?
>
>...I'm currently running 14 degrees at idle, with the engine revved up,
the
> mechanical kicks in another 26 (as set with the stepped Mallory key),
> then the vacuum is adjusted to minimum advance (screw in all the way),
> for a grand total of around 45-50 degrees.  I think this is too much.
>
> -greg
_______________

Greg,
The fallacy here is that you've added initial, mechanical, and vacuum
advance numbers to get total.  Total advance is simply the sum of initial
plus mechanical; at WOT there is no vacuum, hence there is no vacuum
advance.  This still gives you a total advance of 14+26=40 degrees, too
much for an Olds but mot as far off the desired 30-35 degrees to be a big
problem.  I take it you haven't experienced ping at WOT?  Do you know that
your mechanical advance really gives you 26 degrees (based on distributor
machine or in-car measurements) or are you going by the Mallory published
data?  Be aware that mechanical tolerances can alter the actual amount of
advance a certain adjustment will provide.

The best way to set up your distributor is to shoot for about 32-35 degrees
of total advance, with the mechanical advance all in by about 2500 RPM.
(Note that the exact settings will vary with your compression and cam
choices)  Next experiment with the vac advance canister adjustment until
you get part throttle ping, then back off slightly.  The vac advance will
improve part throttle driveability and gas mileage, but will obviously have
no effect on WOT performance.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 15:08:29 EDT
From: <R4C442@aol.com>
Subject: Re: How much timing to use?

Hey list!
    I hate to tack this on another post but I'm lazy. Was at a show Sunday and
ran across a guy selling a pair of "J" heads for $75. Anybody interested?
                                                                        Ron
Forsee
                                                                        65
442-Meister

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1391
*********************************
