Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1342


oldsmobile-digest       Wednesday, July 1 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1342



Re: Where do i fill the transmission fluid ?
Re: A/C Blower Problems
running hot?
Chrome Wheels for sale
Re: Loss of brake fluid and 2bits  long
Re: 403 rebuild
Re: 403 rebuild
Thanks and alternator question
Olds
Re: limo
Re: Thanks and alternator question
Re: Thanks and alternator question
RE:  Running hot?
Re: running hot?
Re: Hood Insulation
Re: running hot?
Re: Hood Insulation
Re: Hood Insulation
HOCA meet/small world
Mondello Stuff
Re: 65-70 88/98 Parts for sale
Re: Fwd: Re: [Toro] Re: Olds Limo / Ambulance / Hearse
41 Olds chrome
Rear-end
hood
Re: 64 Cutlass for Sale
RE: Mondello Stuff
RE: A/C Blower Problems
RE: which vinyl dye is best?
RE: Loss of brake fluid
Re: Mondello Stuff
Re: Rear-end
RE: Loss of brake fluid
Re: which vinyl dye is best?
'73 Hurst for sale; Fort Campbell, Kentucky
Re: Hood Insulation
Re: Rear-end
Grand Olds day in Indy
A/C conversion ( My 2 cents)
Re: attn. 66-67 folks ......
Body/paint 98Olds in Phoenix area
oldsmobile nationals
RE: oldsmobile nationals
Re: 65-70 88/98 Parts for sale
re adios
Signing off (temporarily)
Re: Chrome Wheels for sale
Re: hood
RE: Signing off (temporarily)
for sale
Re: Chrome Wheels for sale
Returned mail: User unknown
Re: Rear-end
RE: Signing off (temporarily)
Re: Rear-end
color details & ramblings
RE: color details & ramblings
RE: Signing off (temporarily)
Re: A/C Blower Problems

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 22:41:34 EDT
From: <Dudeman864@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Where do i fill the transmission fluid ?

the dipstick is back near the firewall, about a foot towards the center from
the thingie you put the brake fluid in

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 22:11:41 -0500
From: "Patrick Robinson" <jcguru@teclink.net>
Subject: Re: A/C Blower Problems

Most likely its the magnet contacts on the motor itself.  Had one do the
same thing.  Ended up changing the fan motor.  Its a pain because on my 70
cutlass sx you must first remove the pass. fender.  Got my motor from Year
One aprox 50 bucks.
Patrick Robinson

- ----------
> From: Eichten, Brent <Brent.Eichten@westgroup.com>
> To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject: A/C Blower Problems
> Date: Tuesday, June 30, 1998 10:26 AM
>
> I have a 71 Cutlass Supreme with A/C and have been having problems with
> the blower fan.  When the fan is turned on, it makes a loud squealing
> like it needs to be lubricated.  If I turn it off and turn it back on,
> sometimes it goes away and works fine.
>
> Is there anywhere to lubricate the blower motor or do I need to replace
> the motor?  How big of a project is this?  I was looking at it last
> night and it looks like getting to the blower is going to be a real
> nightmare!!  Are the blower motors available in parts stores?
>
> Brent Eichten
> 1971 Cutlass Supreme
> brent.eichten@westgroup.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 23:18:50 EDT
From: <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: running hot?

i just installed some gages in my '78 cutlass.  the temp gage reads 220 most
of the time.  isnt that a little warm?  oil pressure is 30 while cruising.  my
trip meter is messed up, too.  i cant get it to reset.  but, that is another
subject altogether.  really all i need to know is if i should be worried about
220 degrees.  thanks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 20:41:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joe Padavano <joe_padavano@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Chrome Wheels for sale

Found this on the net, thought some might find this interesting.  Normal
disclaimers apply:

Date of Posting: june 30, 1998
Email Address: mommac@gate.net
Description: oldsmobile ss-III wheel fully chromed (no trim ring required) 14
x 7 with center cap in beautiful condition. Used on 442's and others. Will
sell for $75 plus shipping. Call Frank at 352-688-8199 or e-mail.
City: spring hill
State: Florida





_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 20:37:06 -0700
From: Rick <truric@imag.net>
Subject: Re: Loss of brake fluid and 2bits  long

At 05:48 AM 6/30/98 -0500, you wrote:
>I am totally confused about the loss of my brake fluid.  My brakes went out
>in my 71 cutlass Friday. The fluid was half full in the bowl for my front
>disk brakes. I filled it up and starting pumping the brakes to find were the
>leak was. No leak appeared and the fluid was still full. So were did the
>fluid loss come from and why doesn't it happen again?
>
>Please help
>
>OK it's time for a little brake course 1st off as the front brakes waer
out the fluid lever will drop in the front reservoirs (the big one)this is
natural more fluid is held in the caliper and less in the master if the
fluid lever continues to drop and there is no visible leaks or if the pedal
drops to the floor and the light comes on then chances are that the fluid
is going straight in to the booster or for you with manual brakes on to the
inside of the fire wall (hint #1 put a vise grip on all three rubber brake
hoses and if the pedal still drops and there is no sign of fluid anywhere
else go to the parts store and buy a master cylinder)
All so anyone who adjusts the ebrake to adjust there brakes or to achieve a
better pedal hight should never be allowed to use a nine sixteenth wrench
again (what do you people think the star wheel for? adjusting the ebrake
just move the top of the shoe closer to the drum great if you want to keep
doing this every 4months and replace your shoes every year or so
And in close i would like to say that im sorry for voicing my option to you
all i would have sad nothing (knowing the reaction i was going to get ) all
so in 1969 4wheel disc was an opinion on the z28 and all so (little know
fact the 1969 zl1 with an all aluminum big block that came standard (but
there was only 69 of them made ))
Rick
1972 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 23:49:03 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: 403 rebuild

DYeager535@aol.com wrote:
>
> that have first hand knowledge of this. Also, what about a cam? There are 2
> listed in Summit...not much of a selection. I want a fairly good idle, you
> know, not shaking bolts out of the car. Thanks for any and all info, Dorian

Go to Comp Cams website and order a catalog. They have a relative short
but decent selection.

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
         777777 33333
            77      33
Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
          77        33
         77     33333
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 23:59:00 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 403 rebuild

In a message dated 98-06-30 23:44:55 EDT, you write:

<< Go to Comp Cams website and order a catalog. They have a relative short
 but decent selection. >>

Thnaks for the help....anyone have any experience with a particular cam in the
403?   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 00:15:37 EDT
From: <MARKSJ@aol.com>
Subject: Thanks and alternator question

Thanks to those who helped with the advice on the removal of the back seat on
the convertible.  Followed the instructions and it came out very easily.  It
is now recovered and ready to go back in.

I have a new question.  I went to Canadian Tire today to pick up a new belt
(alternator) for my 81 Cutlass Supreme Brougham.  They needed to know if the
alternator is a 70 amp or not.  How do I tell?  Engine is a 267...

TIA
Joel Marks
71 CS Convertible
81 CS Brougham

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 00:22:12 -0400
From: Toby Blom <floridarealtor@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Olds

Hello everybody, subscribed again today, just picked up a one owner,
1966 f85 4 door hardtop in pretty good condition. Its gonna be my daily
driver, and goes in for a minor restoration first. If anybody got a set
of buckets for a 66 laying around, I'm very interested..

Toby
67 cutlass
66 f85 holiday sedan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 21:28:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jack Karamanos <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: Re: limo

there is a 61 limo in a wrecking yard along with many other 40's- 60's
olds in south central idaho.

47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 22:15:50 -0700
From: Eric Spence <ericsp@mail.ocis.net>
Subject: Re: Thanks and alternator question

Go to a real auto store!

MARKSJ@aol.com wrote:

> Thanks to those who helped with the advice on the removal of the back seat on
> the convertible.  Followed the instructions and it came out very easily.  It
> is now recovered and ready to go back in.
>
> I have a new question.  I went to Canadian Tire today to pick up a new belt
> (alternator) for my 81 Cutlass Supreme Brougham.  They needed to know if the
> alternator is a 70 amp or not.  How do I tell?  Engine is a 267...
>
> TIA
> Joel Marks
> 71 CS Convertible
> 81 CS Brougham



- --
Eric Spence
ericsp@mail.ocis.net
Kamloops, BC, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 22:41:49 -0700
From: Eric Spence <ericsp@mail.ocis.net>
Subject: Re: Thanks and alternator question

Sorry, I could not resist the crack about going to a real auto store while I
looked it up.  Had some BAD experiences in C*n*d*a* Tire.  According to the 81
shop manual I have, the 81 Cutlass Supreme Brougham had a 260 4.3L engine VIN 
F.
If that is the case, you could have one of four according to the book.  They 
are
in order of model + code:

1100164-FM  55 AMP
1100121-HT   63 AMP
1101037-ZU   70 AMP (C41, C49 and/or V08)
1101037-ZU   70 AMP (C60, C49 and/or V08)

Hope this helps!

MARKSJ@aol.com wrote:

> new belt (alternator) for my 81 Cutlass Supreme Brougham.  They needed to 
know
> if the
> alternator is a 70 amp or not.  How do I tell?  Engine is a 267...
>
> TIA
> Joel Marks
> 71 CS Convertible
> 81 CS Brougham



- --
Eric Spence
ericsp@mail.ocis.net
Kamloops, BC, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 01:37:17 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: RE:  Running hot?

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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You need not be concerned with the 220 degree reading.  Remember that =
water boils @ 212.  In your radiator, the water is mixed with =
anti-freeze.  The anti-freeze has a higher boiling point (as well as a =
lower freezing point) than water, so the water--anti-freeze mix will =
need a temperature higher than 212 to boil.  Also, the cooling system is =
pressurized.  Water assumes a higher boiling point when it is under =
pressure.  Do you have air conditioning?  The ac will cause the engine =
to run a little bit hotter, but still you should be fine.  Also, if you =
live in the city or drive stop-and-go, your car will run hotter.  Take =
it on the highway and the needle will drop somewhat.=20

Berusch(es)
70 98 Holiday LS   69 98 Holiday LS
70 442                  66 98 Droptop
67 Delta 88 Droptop  67 Delta Custom (Starfire)
68 98 Droptop        66 98 Coupe

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV>You need not be concerned with the 220 degree reading.&nbsp; =
Remember that=20
water boils @ 212.&nbsp; In your radiator, the water is mixed with=20
anti-freeze.&nbsp; The anti-freeze has a higher boiling point (as well =
as a=20
lower freezing point) than water, so the water--anti-freeze mix will =
need a=20
temperature higher than 212 to boil.&nbsp; Also, the cooling system is=20
pressurized.&nbsp; Water assumes a higher boiling point when it is under =

pressure.&nbsp; Do you have air conditioning?&nbsp; The ac will cause =
the engine=20
to run a little bit hotter, but still you should be fine.&nbsp; Also, if =
you=20
live in the city or drive stop-and-go, your car will run hotter.&nbsp; =
Take it=20
on the highway and the needle will drop somewhat.&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Berusch(es)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>70 98 Holiday LS&nbsp;&nbsp; 69 98 =
Holiday=20
LS</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>70=20
442&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
66 98 Droptop</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>67 Delta 88 Droptop&nbsp; 67 Delta =
Custom=20
(Starfire)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>68 98=20
Droptop&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 66 98=20
Coupe</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 01:51:12 -0400
From: Peter Flinkfelt <pftno1klr@edgenet.net>
Subject: Re: running hot?

What year car? Most GM cars run between 180 and 220. Check what the 
manufacturer
recomends for a thermostat, that should give you an idea if you are hot or 
not.

BIGJERMES@aol.com wrote:

> i just installed some gages in my '78 cutlass.  the temp gage reads 220 most
> of the time.  isnt that a little warm?  oil pressure is 30 while cruising.  
my
> trip meter is messed up, too.  i cant get it to reset.  but, that is another
> subject altogether.  really all i need to know is if i should be worried 
about
> 220 degrees.  thanks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 02:08:10 EDT
From: <Socalolds@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Hood Insulation

Keith,
If you have a correct hood pad there will be a notch near one of the corners.
This notch can only go where the factory hood light went. And therefore will
dictate which side is up and down. If my memory serves me right the ugly
unfinished green side faces the engine.
Dennis

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 01:30:18 -0700
From: Greg Kalkhoff <gkalkhof@mail.execpc.com>
Subject: Re: running hot?

Peter Flinkfelt wrote:

> What year car? Most GM cars run between 180 and 220. Check what the
manufacturer > recomends for a thermostat, that should give you an idea if you
are hot or not.

Pete and others:

There are several variables when trying to pinpoint a hot running condition.
These range from a bad temp sending unit to an overzealous temp gauge!

However, generally in a overheating condition, simple things are usually the
culprit!

1. Old/bad rad fluid and rad cap! (I had to mention the obvoius)
2. Bad thermostat:

This is EASY to check! Take it out and place in a pot on the stove in boiling
water with a thermometer! At the stamped temperature on the pellet, it should
BOING open +/- 5 degrees. A NO brainer! However, I have had brand new ones that
were fubared.

3. Impellor insufficiency on the water pump. This happens for a few reasons.
Lack of quality heads the list! WRONG water pump, eventhough it fits is next!

4. KA KA fan clutch or lack of radiator shroud.

5. Last, and probably the BIGGEST and MOST common reason....

Clogged/insufficient radiator flow!!!!

Not sure of your application, but in Toro's, a 4 row radiator is THE panacia!
Period! Have your radiator flow/pressure tested and call me in the morning! (:
Just a joke!

But seriously, MOST overheating problems start with the radiator.....IMHO. Just
for shits and giggles, take the thermostat out, run it, and see what happens.


Beyond that, you are talking engine coolant flow properties. For this, Dr. Bob
Barry is THE man for you to seek on this.

(:

Sparky

- --
Greg "Sparky" Kalkhoff                               See the Sparkmobile
Toronado Chapter Webmaster                     
http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html
Toronado FAQ Page Administrator
http://www.Toronado.org

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 02:27:58 EDT
From: <Socalolds@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Hood Insulation

Thanks for setting the record straight greg!
Dennis

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 01:46:21 -0700
From: Greg Kalkhoff <gkalkhof@mail.execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Hood Insulation

Socalolds@aol.com wrote:
>
> Thanks for setting the record straight greg!
> Dennis

Who? Moi?

Sparky
- --
Greg "Sparky" Kalkhoff                               See the Sparkmobile
Toronado Chapter Webmaster                     
http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html
Toronado FAQ Page Administrator
http://www.Toronado.org

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 00:40:44 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: HOCA meet/small world

Just got an E-mail back from a friend in Havre.  He'd just got back from Kansas
City competing in National Vica (took 13th.  Again.  He was disappointed...
Again.  Northern has a history of bringing back 1st, 2nd's and/or 3rds from
Nationals on a yearly basis.  I know I was disappointed to only take 3rd in
state, I wanted Nat'ls with a passion.  My last year there, I missed one
deadline, and was ineligible to compete.  Pi**ed me off 'cuz I knew it would be
my last chance...)

Anyway, he told me about going down to the track one day there.  Said the Hurst
Olds Club of America was down there running their rides.  Coolest thing he'd
ever seen.  Well, here.  Let me quote him (and censor accordingly!!!)

>
> The cool *** thing, you'll **** when you see the pictures, is that we went to
> the Drag races at Kansas City international race way to see some bracket
> races and get this, The National Hurst Olds Club of America was meeting at
> the race way, and yes I used up a roll of film on Rockets. there was probably
> 15 to 25 Hurst Olds at the race. It was pretty ****'n' cool.
> Other wise I was pretty disappointed that the 2o'clock races was just time
> trials until 6 and being 100******* degrees it wasn't that pleasant after
> the Olds club left after about an hour after we had gotten there.

Substitute your favorite profanity for the **'s.  He seemed pretty excited 
about
it!
And ~I'm~ pretty excited to get there and see the ******* pictures!  :)

Oh, and get ~this~...  He's a die-hard ch*vy fan!  He's coming around.  He 
likes
Buicks, too, so I let it slide...  Somewhat.  :)


- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 02:19:28 -0500
From: Dave Rogers <roger035@gold.tc.umn.edu>
Subject: Mondello Stuff

I seem to have lost my Mondello Catalog.  Im looking for the part number
for Hooker Header that fit a 1984 Cutlass with 5A heads.  I know it's
listed in there and that they are $315.  But I cant remember the part
number.

Can anyone please help me?

Also, does anyone know if those headers are Comp or Super Comp.?

Thanks for any and all help,

Dave Rogers

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 00:30:30 -0700 (MST)
From: NOVAMARK@webtv.net (MARK ERTHUM)
Subject: Re: 65-70 88/98 Parts for sale

Anybody need a 12 bolt posi for a 65-70 88/98 big car? Comes complete
with E-brake cables and drums. Just bolt it in.$225 Will trade or
negotiate.
Also have some 67-70 88/98 front disc brake parts to make your
conversion easier.Email me for more info.
Have some 69 ninety eight parts if anybodys interested.

Talk to ya later,
Mark from Az.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 02:41:00 -0700
From: Greg Kalkhoff <gkalkhof@mail.execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Fwd: Re: [Toro] Re: Olds Limo / Ambulance / Hearse

Douglas Kitchener wrote:

> Corvair?!!  Wow... I know there were some full-size Chevy and Chevelle
Ambulance > conversions called AmbleWagons, also on Buick Sport Wagons
(Vista-Cruiser > style)... Was this thing on the Greenbriar van, or the Corvair
wagon?  I'm > betting the van...

WOW! COOL! That must of been a regional thang as I have never seen such a
critter!

> Is anyone familiar with Dennis Casteele's book, _The Cars Of Oldsmobile_?
> Crestline published a similar book on Chevy (most other makes as well) and
there > are pix of this kind of stuff... in fact, I think I do remember a
Greenbriar > conversion.

Yes....that is a rather replete compilation! Too bad he is gone.......I  miss
him! ):

> Sparky, I prefer a Buick RoadSmasher conversion, please!

No you don't! You'd rather not even the contemplation! Don't worry, when you 
get
TOO old an dottering, I'll do a Kevorkian on you! That's assuming _I_ still
have MY marbles and/or still alive mumbleing Toro parts numbers and embalming
fluid formulas!!  (:

> They also had a '60 Ford cab-over for a squad, in case anyone's interested!

I didn't even want to transcend GM! But NOW that YOU mentioned it! (:

> Sorry, got off the subject a little... this stuff is another interest of
mine... > wonder if there's a Vintage Emergency Vehicle email list?!  :)

Aye! ANOTHER Specialty Chapter! (;

> If anyone's interested in this stuff, email me privately, I have more war
> stories!

Bring 'em on!

Sparky

- --
Greg "Sparky" Kalkhoff                               See the Sparkmobile
Toronado Chapter Webmaster                     
http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html
Toronado FAQ Page Administrator
http://www.Toronado.org

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 06:28:48 +0000
From: "Charles R. Williams" <cjw55@banet.net>
Subject: 41 Olds chrome

Need for 41 Olds 66 series 2 door sedan. NOS or real good cast chrome
parts, stainless rocker moldings, and rear window garnish molding. Do
not want anything that needs rechroming, as I already have that.  If you
have or know anyone that has any of the above please email me before the
plater gets all my money! Thanks! Charlie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 06:55:25 -0400
From: Pat McDermott <koloth@iglou.com>
Subject: Rear-end

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Hello all,
If someone could impart a bit-o-knowledge on me I'd appreciate it.
I have a 2.5? Rear end now. I don't want to make the RPM's go up much,
but I'd like more low-end power. What choices do I have. Olds and
Ch*vy-chit are different right? So Exactly What am I looking for when I
talk to the Junk or parts guys? BTW What ballpark am I looking at for
new parts and how much labor will it take. Will I then have to get in
the Tranny (change shifting)?
Sorry if Its been covered recently
or if there just stupid questions.

Pat McD.
69 convertible Cutlass w/350
Ky.

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<HTML>
Hello all,
<BR>If someone could impart a bit-o-knowledge on me I'd appreciate it.
<BR>I have a 2.5? Rear end now. I don't want to make the RPM's go up much,
but I'd like more low-end power. What choices do I have. Olds and Ch*vy-chit
are different right? So <I>Exactly</I> What am I looking for when I talk
to the Junk or parts guys? BTW What ballpark am I looking at for new parts
and how much labor will it take. Will I then have to get in the Tranny
(change shifting)?
<BR>Sorry if Its been covered recently
<BR>or if there just stupid questions.

<P>Pat McD.
<BR>69 convertible Cutlass w/350
<BR>Ky.</HTML>

- --------------DE87004D450BBBC471084E79--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 07:31:28 -0400
From: Pat McDermott <koloth@iglou.com>
Subject: hood

I've been looking at Olds pics and noticed something.
Do most 69 hoods not have 2 Small grills?,  I don't know what to call them.
Mine are lets say 12"by5" and there up by the glass.
Just wondering?

Pat McD.
69 Cutlass
Ky

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 07:54:38 -0500
From: James Thomas <dremwlkr@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: 64 Cutlass for Sale

BrKLynS@aol.com wrote:

> Description: 1964 olds cutlass for sale.2 door hardtop.330(290 hp at 10.25:1
> comp) v8 4 barrell carb.new plugs,wires,cap,rotor,condensor and radiator
> hoses.car primed black.bumpers both painted chrome(spray can),grill redone-
> also painted black-just tips are showing(great).new headlights.new tires.very
> powerful car!! $1000 or best offer.-email me at brklyns@aol.com
> City: staten island
> State: New York

  How are the floor boards and trunk pans?
  And do you have a picture available online?

James Thomas
Olds Fan

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 07:59:47 -0400
From: "Angel Castrodad" <angleki@prtc.net>
Subject: RE: Mondello Stuff

Dave,
	The headers you're looking for are part# 3108. Good luck though, from 
what
I hear on the list they're a pain to install. Are these headers really worth
installing on a 307 (5A)? I know, I know......I need to get me a 403.....
;-)

Angel Castrodad
angleki@prtc.net

'86 442---> 307(vin 9, HYD),TH-350, 3.73 gears

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Dave Rogers
> Sent: Wednesday, July 01, 1998 3:19 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Mondello Stuff
>
>
> I seem to have lost my Mondello Catalog.  Im looking for the part number
> for Hooker Header that fit a 1984 Cutlass with 5A heads.  I know it's
> listed in there and that they are $315.  But I cant remember the part
> number.
>
> Can anyone please help me?
>
> Also, does anyone know if those headers are Comp or Super Comp.?
>
> Thanks for any and all help,
>
> Dave Rogers
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 08:09:33 -0400
From: "Wagner, John" <WagnerJo@pios.com>
Subject: RE: A/C Blower Problems

I just went through this..you only have to take out the inner fender
well. The hood and fender can stay on. You will have to take off the
entire A/C firewall mounted enclosure to get to the fan. You might be
able to separate the sections at the condenser, but I wasn't able to.

Definitely just put on a new motor and fan after going through all this.

John
72 Cutlass 455
98 Bravada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 08:16:50 -0400
From: "Wagner, John" <WagnerJo@pios.com>
Subject: RE: which vinyl dye is best?

I've used the dupli-color vinyl successfully..the secret seems to be the
stuff has got to be super clean that you are trying to dye. I use
cleaner that painters use before the paint cars..you can get it at just
about any parts store that sells car paint - Hopkins and Kip, etc etc. I
did many pieces from green to black and I'm satisfied with the results.
Lets face it, no dye job is going to be quite as good as the original
color though.

John
72 Cutlass 455
98 Bravada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 07:34:45 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: Loss of brake fluid

I found the problem with my brakes! The brake line was dripping because it
was loose. tighten it up and bled the lines and brakes are as good as new.
Thanks for help.

ya know I couldn't service without this site  :  )

> ----------
> From: 	JonKrisInc@aol.com[SMTP:JonKrisInc@aol.com]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Tuesday, June 30, 1998 12:32 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: Loss of brake fluid
>
> In a message dated 98-06-30 06:50:07 EDT, you write:
>
> <<  am totally confused about the loss of my brake fluid.  My brakes went
> out
>  in my 71 cutlass Friday. The fluid was half full in the bowl for my front
>  disk brakes. I filled it up and starting pumping the brakes to find were
> the
>  leak was. No leak appeared and the fluid was still full. So were did the
>  fluid loss come from and why doesn't it happen again?
>   >>
>
> Check the bleeder valve on the calipers. Might be open a smidgen, maybe
> that's
> why your bowl was omly half full.
> Bruce
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 07:34:44 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Re: Mondello Stuff

>I seem to have lost my Mondello Catalog.  Im looking for the part number
>for Hooker Header that fit a 1984 Cutlass with 5A heads.  I know it's
>listed in there and that they are $315.  But I cant remember the part
>number.
>
>Can anyone please help me?
>
>Also, does anyone know if those headers are Comp or Super Comp.?
>
>Thanks for any and all help,
>
>Dave Rogers


Dave,

Mondello Part # 3108

Catalog Description:

"Cutlass 1978 to 1987 330-403 Oldsmobile engines and 1980 to 1985 307 Olds
with #5A heads.  Includes hardware, gaskets & reducers for 3" collector.  1
3/4" tube.  AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ONLY.  Technical Note:  This header will
not fit on ported cylinder heads.  The flanges are too small."

As for Comp or Super Comp?  Sorry, but I don't know.

Jonathan Parke
'72 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 08:41:56 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Re: Rear-end

> Hello all,

>If someone could impart a bit-o-knowledge on me I'd appreciate it.

>I have a 2.5? Rear end now. I don't want to make the RPM's go up much,
but I'd like more low-end power. What choices do I have. Olds and
Ch*vy-chit are different right? So <italic>Exactly</italic> What am I
looking for when I talk to the Junk or parts guys? BTW What ballpark am
I looking at for new parts and how much labor will it take. Will I then
have to get in the Tranny (change shifting)?

>Sorry if Its been covered recently

>or if there just stupid questions.

>

>Pat McD.

>69 convertible Cutlass w/350

>Ky.



Pat,


Others folks on the list with knowledge much deeper than mine will be
able to tell your choices so I won't attempt that part.


However, in case you don't already have it here's a handy formula I
used when I was looking for "the perfect rear gear":


RPM = (MPH x Rear Gear x 336 x Transmission Gear) / (Tire Diameter)


EXAMPLE #1:


If:  MPH = 65

If:  Rear Gear = 3.42

If:  Transmission Gear = 1 (Drive Gear)

If:  Tire Diameter = 24.75"


Then:  RPM = 3017.890909 = 3018


EXAMPLE #2:


If:  MPH = 55

If:  Rear Gear = 3.42

If:  Transmission Gear = 1 (Drive Gear)

If:  Tire Diameter = 24.75"


Then:  RPM = 2553.6 = 2554


For 1st, 2nd or OverDrive just look up the transmission gear specs and
plug them in.


If you want to figure the MPH given a certain RPM use the following:


MPH = (RPM x Tire Diameter) / (Rear Gear Ratio x 336 x Transmission
Gear Ratio)


If you have a spreadsheet program like Excel you can plot the range of
RPMs and MPHs for any combination you want.  In fact, you could go
berserk and spend all sorts of time on this, but then maybe you're not
crazy like me.


If math is not your thing drop me a line and I'll walk you through it.


A couple of qualifiers:


1)  I believe Drive Gear is usually a 1:1 ratio.  Anybody know for
sure?

2)  Remember this is a formula, not real life.  Torque converter slip
age and other little factors figure into the final answer.  However,
the above will get you real close.


For those who want more there is a great book from HP Books:


"Auto Math Handbook" by John Lawlor.  ISBN # 1-55788-020-4


It's very readable (lots of white space, not all crowed up with a
zillion little numbers).  Even if you don't use the math it really
helps with the basic concepts of auto performance.


Hope this helps,


Jonathan Parke

'72 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 07:42:32 -0500
From: "Kijowski, Stan" <SKIJOWSKI@midland.com>
Subject: RE: Loss of brake fluid

I'm not much of a mechanic, and that may be evident by my comment, but if
there is no visual external signs of leakage, could the fluid be leaking
back into the booster?
> ----------
> From: 	Johnson, Sam[SMTP:SAJOHNSON@usds.com]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Wednesday, July 01, 1998 7:34 AM
> To: 	'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject: 	RE: Loss of brake fluid
>
> I found the problem with my brakes! The brake line was dripping because it
> was loose. tighten it up and bled the lines and brakes are as good as new.
> Thanks for help.
>
> ya know I couldn't service without this site  :  )
>
> > ----------
> > From: 	JonKrisInc@aol.com[SMTP:JonKrisInc@aol.com]
> > Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Sent: 	Tuesday, June 30, 1998 12:32 PM
> > To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: 	Re: Loss of brake fluid
> >
> > In a message dated 98-06-30 06:50:07 EDT, you write:
> >
> > <<  am totally confused about the loss of my brake fluid.  My brakes
> went
> > out
> >  in my 71 cutlass Friday. The fluid was half full in the bowl for my
> front
> >  disk brakes. I filled it up and starting pumping the brakes to find
> were
> > the
> >  leak was. No leak appeared and the fluid was still full. So were did
> the
> >  fluid loss come from and why doesn't it happen again?
> >   >>
> >
> > Check the bleeder valve on the calipers. Might be open a smidgen, maybe
> > that's
> > why your bowl was omly half full.
> > Bruce
> >
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 08:47:10 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: which vinyl dye is best?

In a message dated 98-06-30 16:05:35 EDT, you write:

<< Did you clean those trim pieces thoroughly? >>

Any idea what you would use to clean the vynal before dyeing? I'd like to know
too.
Bruce

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 08:56:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: '73 Hurst for sale; Fort Campbell, Kentucky

In the local paper this morning:

"1973 Hurst Olds
 1 of 1420, original condition
 swivel buckets, daily driver

 Best Offer (He has this car in his ad with 3 others, non Olds)

 (502) 431-6096


Good hunting,


C. Casteel
earthsci@usit.net
(931) 645-8008

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 08:59:37 EDT
From: <GT5726@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Hood Insulation

Gib...You're RIGHT!...I went out to look at the one on my T-birrd...it has the
"hard"side
facing the engine....but that IS Ford...so...you know....haha

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 08:07:13 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Rear-end

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_047A_01BDA4C7.416AB000
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

You have check the two letter code on the front of your axle tube and =
look it up in the service manual to see what ratio it is.  Mine was =
2.56, and I changed it to a 3.73 with an Auburn limited slip unit.  I =
couldn't cruise on the highway, so I changed to 3.08 gears and I'm happy =
for now.  If you have an overdrive, go with something in the 3.42 range =
for highway driving, and 3.73 or 3.90 if you drive it around town.

The Olds rear ends are different than most, so make sure the shop =
putting in the gears orders the right ones.

- -greg

Cost: gears $200, parts $100, labor $200, posi $350.

- -----Original Message-----
    From: Pat McDermott <koloth@iglou.com>
    To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
    Date: Wednesday, July 01, 1998 6:56 AM
    Subject: Rear-end
   =20
   =20
    Hello all,=20
    If someone could impart a bit-o-knowledge on me I'd appreciate it.=20
    I have a 2.5? Rear end now. I don't want to make the RPM's go up =
much, but I'd like more low-end power. What choices do I have. Olds and =
Ch*vy-chit are different right? So Exactly What am I looking for when I =
talk to the Junk or parts guys? BTW What ballpark am I looking at for =
new parts and how much labor will it take. Will I then have to get in =
the Tranny (change shifting)?=20
    Sorry if Its been covered recently=20
    or if there just stupid questions.=20
    Pat McD.=20
    69 convertible Cutlass w/350=20
    Ky.=20
   =20

- ------=_NextPart_000_047A_01BDA4C7.416AB000
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>You have check the two letter code =
on the front=20
of your axle tube and look it up in the service manual to see what ratio =
it=20
is.&nbsp; Mine was 2.56, and I changed it to a 3.73 with an Auburn =
limited slip=20
unit.&nbsp; I couldn't cruise on the highway, so I changed to 3.08 gears =
and I'm=20
happy for now.&nbsp; If you have an overdrive, go with something in the =
3.42=20
range for highway driving, and 3.73 or 3.90 if you drive it around=20
town.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The Olds rear ends are different than most, so make =
sure the=20
shop putting in the gears orders the right ones.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>-greg</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Cost: gears $200, parts $100, labor $200, posi=20
$350.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Pat McDermott &lt;<A=20
    href=3D"mailto:koloth@iglou.com">koloth@iglou.com</A>&gt;<BR><B>To: =
</B><A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A> =
&lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Wednesday, July 01, 1998 6:56 AM<BR><B>Subject:=20
    </B>Rear-end<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>Hello all, <BR>If someone could =
impart a=20
    bit-o-knowledge on me I'd appreciate it. <BR>I have a 2.5? Rear end =
now. I=20
    don't want to make the RPM's go up much, but I'd like more low-end =
power.=20
    What choices do I have. Olds and Ch*vy-chit are different right? So=20
    <I>Exactly</I> What am I looking for when I talk to the Junk or =
parts guys?=20
    BTW What ballpark am I looking at for new parts and how much labor =
will it=20
    take. Will I then have to get in the Tranny (change shifting)? =
<BR>Sorry if=20
    Its been covered recently <BR>or if there just stupid questions.=20
    <P>Pat McD. <BR>69 convertible Cutlass w/350 <BR>Ky.=20
</P></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_047A_01BDA4C7.416AB000--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 08:40:49 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: Grand Olds day in Indy

I had some time after work yesterday, so I asked my friend with the 72
Supreme convertible if he was doing anything as I'd like to stop by and
take a look at your ride.  Very nice and solid driver which is what he
wanted.  It is 75 corvette yellow with black interior and top,
transplated 455 in place of the original 350, headers, torker intake and
a Holley, turbo 350, console, front discs with power, p/s, a/c which is
missing the compressor (anybody have a/c parts for sale?), open rear
with hwy gears, bumper guards and he's got a 4-4-2 rear bumper with the
guards and trumpets, SSII painted body color (he said they should be
argent but wanted them body color), map light and trunk release. He's
also got a 4 row radiator in it and a temp gauge to monitor temps and he
said no matter what it stays rock steady at 180.  He's had the car a
good 9 years and rescued it from a junk yard.  The cars' been gone
through as he used to work at a Pontiac dealer and he asked the parts
guy do you have this part, yes, I'll take 2, what about this part, yes,
I'll take 3 ,etc, etc, so it's probably 99% all original GM parts.  He's
hardly driven it much the past few years but I think my enthusiam has
helped the bug bite him again, as he's anxious to finish the detailing
on the car and attend some shows/swaps.  He hasn't had anything go wrong
with car considering it pretty much sits in the garage.  But he thinks
there might be something wrong with the steering column.  So we took it
for a drive, runs great, it gave me inspiration to work on mine (now I
just need the power company to restore power to my house).  The problem
he's having with the steering doesn't happen unless you turn the wheel
slowly to either side and the car has been warmed up.  It's kinda like a
grinding vibration type of sound.  The column has bearings in it doesn't
it?  Could that be the problem?  He's said the steering pump is full as
he's checked it several times.  Any ideas or things I should have him
try?  He's also looking for a few misc items, if anyone has any of these
for sale let me know and I'll fwd them on to him, thanks
a/c setup, compressor, brackets, lines and hoses - only thing he has is
the pulleys and box on the firewall
conv. top switch
almost anything convertible top related, cylinders, lines, motor, etc
rear quarter windows and the chrome strip on them
black headrests
black auto console

Chris Smetana
(still electricity-less in) Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 08:54:10 -0700
From: Mike Schlottman <mschlott@rsn.hp.com>
Subject: A/C conversion ( My 2 cents)

I went through this delima this spring.  Spend over $100 on adding freon
which would leak out by next year or convert.

By doing the job myself, I spent about $250 total.  For my money this is
what I got.

Rebuilt all hoses.  This is the most expensive part.  It has been rumored
that if your hoses are not leaking now, they do not need to be replaced.
But if they are not leaking now, why would you be converting your system?

New dryer.
New expansion valve.
4 lbs of R-134.  (I used less than 3 lbs.)
Conversion kit.  this kit included 2 cans of oil, 2 R-134 type fittings(one
of which was wrong), and a charging hose.
1 correct fitting. (bought this loose at NAPA)

I drained the oil from my compressor. It is recomended that the old system
be flushed.  I did not have any equipment to flush the system so I skipped
this step.

I replaced all the parts.
I drew a vaccuum on the system using a borrowed vaccuum pump.
I charged the system with the new oil.
I charged the system with the R-134.

If you have never done any A/C work I would recomend that you have some
assistance in charging the system.  The rest of the work is very simple
though.

My A/C now cools about 30 degrees below outside temperature when set to
normal so I am very satisfied with it.  I drive the car daily in 100 degree
heat.

If anyone has any questions on my conversion please send me mail directly.
I usualy only have time to skim the digest.

	Mike Schlottman
	1970 Olds 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 09:34:28 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: attn. 66-67 folks ......

this could get confusing

Brett Wilson
1967 Cutlass Convertible........

>Brent
>1967 Cutlass Convertible

maybe it's the year.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 07:42:21 -0700 (MST)
From: angst@primenet.com (Dustin Robinette)
Subject: Body/paint 98Olds in Phoenix area

Does anyone know of an individual in the Phoenix area who does a good job of
painting Oldsmobiles? I do not want a cheap paint job, but on the other hand
I do not want to pay an arm and a leg for having the car painted. I believe
the car has a lacquer paint on it and it still has the original paint on
it.Thanks.

Katharine
65 Olds 98 Holiday

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 09:48:05 -0500
From: "babbott@pdnt.com" <babbott@pdnt.com>
Subject: oldsmobile nationals

I will be there with my 70 cutlass supreme 455. Blue with draglites, holler
if you see me.
Eric Phillips

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 09:52:47 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: oldsmobile nationals

Are there gonna be any list gatherings planned?  I enjoyed meeting
everyone is Lansing at the list gathering.  In fact I may wear my rocket
@ symbol, just to see if anyone recognizes it.  Maybe we ought to 'dust'
those off and wear them in Springfield, what do ya think?

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 08:04:25 PDT
From: "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 65-70 88/98 Parts for sale

will it fit a 75 delta 88,i dont see why not ?


>Anybody need a 12 bolt posi for a 65-70 88/98 big car? Comes complete
>with E-brake cables and drums. Just bolt it in.$225 Will trade or
>negotiate.
>Also have some 67-70 88/98 front disc brake parts to make your
>conversion easier.Email me for more info.
>Have some 69 ninety eight parts if anybodys interested.
>
>Talk to ya later,
>Mark from Az.
>
>


  My  -------   -------
            /  |
           /   |
          /     ------
         /            |
        /             |
       /        ------    DELTA 88
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 11:49:32 EDT
From: <Surmise@aol.com>
Subject: re adios

I'v only been on the list a month but in that time note Witt's knowledge base
and humor.  Missed why he left, but I hope was more than electric bits and
bytes.  Sticks and stones... opinions are like... a little flaming is like
spice to life.  If we can get over self precieved insults we would all get
along a bit better.

I miss Witt.  I enjoy the diversity of human personalities.  I those
personalities that I don't like I stay away from (hit delete key).

Witt maybe you can undergo some type of restoration during your hiatus.  Hope
to see you soon.

John
Surmise@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 12:06:32 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Signing off (temporarily)

Hey, gang,

Vacation starts tomorrow, so to prevent mailbox meltdown I'll be
uns*bscribing later today.  See you all June 20.  Have fun and be sure to
get those disc brake conversions done ;-)

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 12:32:04 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Chrome Wheels for sale

> Description: oldsmobile ss-III wheel fully chromed (no trim ring required) 14
> x 7 with center cap in beautiful condition. Used on 442's and others. Will
> sell for $75 plus shipping.

Never mind folks.  I needed one to replace the bent one for the '87, he
was just down the road, now it's in my trunk.  Thanks for the tip, Joe.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 12:34:14 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: hood

> I've been looking at Olds pics and noticed something.
> Do most 69 hoods not have 2 Small grills?,  I don't know what to call them.
> Mine are lets say 12"by5" and there up by the glass.
> Just wondering?

That is standard fare for 69 Cutlass S, 442, and Hurst/Olds.  The
Supremes and I do believe 4 doors had the thin chrome down the center of
the hood without the small chrome vents in the back.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 12:31:19 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: Signing off (temporarily)

Gee Joe I wish I had almost a year of vacation time.:-) Have a great
vacation and don't spend all of your vacation time looking for Olds parts,
save time to eat also.

	

	,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,See you all June 20.
	

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 12:57:05 -0400
From: Jim Olson <jolson@remcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: for sale

I'm not on the list anymore, due to the tremendous number of posts that
I had no interest in, but I have a couple of cars for sale if anyone's
interested.

1985 Cutlass Supreme, T-tops, buckets, console, floor shift, etc. heavy
duty suspension, car was hit in the right rear. It also has an older 350
motor with auto trans, I think it's the 77-79 range according to the
numbers on the block.

It has a 2bbl carb that I put on, but I have the 4v intake and carb.

The body is a bit rusty, and the rear end is tweaked from the accident
but we're still driving the car daily.

I also have a 1983 Cutlass Supreme that has basically no floor pan in
the trunk, but has good quarters and a decent front clip. The two cars
could be put together or used as parts cars. This one has no engine or
trans.

I'm asking $700 or best offer for the pair.

Jim Olson
Shepherd, MI 517-828-6949
jolson@remcen.ehhs.cmich.edu

Thanks!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 13:00:08 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <jlabay@ee.net>
Subject: Re: Chrome Wheels for sale

Damn maybe I should be charging more for the sets I sell.  I just let a set of 
4
15x7 SSIII wheels go for $100. Oh well cost me nothing to get them :-/

Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500.....Vortec 350, A4, 4.10
80 Olds 442 W-30........350, A3, 2.73
75 Hurst/Olds W-25.....350, A3, 2.56
72 Cutlass Supreme.....drag car project


- -----Original Message-----


>> Description: oldsmobile ss-III wheel fully chromed (no trim ring required) 
14
>> x 7 with center cap in beautiful condition. Used on 442's and others. Will
>> sell for $75 plus shipping.
>
>Never mind folks.  I needed one to replace the bent one for the '87, he
>was just down the road, now it's in my trunk.  Thanks for the tip, Joe.
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 12:53:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: MAILER-DAEMON@merge1.mergetel.com (Mail Delivery Subsystem)
Subject: Returned mail: User unknown

The original message was received at Wed Jul  1 12:53:32 EDT 1998
from  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

- ----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors -----
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... while talking to merge1.:
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Final-Recipient: RFC822; lee@merge1
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Return-Path: <oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca>
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<004801bda511$b55956c0$1d58bed1@default> From: "Jason P. Labay" 
<jlabay@ee.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca> Subject: Re: Chrome Wheels for sale 
Date: 	Wed,
1 Jul 1998 13:00:08 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-2" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3
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Small Fry X-SBRule: Pass-No Pattern Matching

Damn maybe I should be charging more for the sets I sell.  I just let a set of 
4
15x7 SSIII wheels go for $100. Oh well cost me nothing to get them :-/

Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500.....Vortec 350, A4, 4.10
80 Olds 442 W-30........350, A3, 2.73
75 Hurst/Olds W-25.....350, A3, 2.56
72 Cutlass Supreme.....drag car project


- -----Original Message-----


>> Description: oldsmobile ss-III wheel fully chromed (no trim ring required) 
14
>> x 7 with center cap in beautiful condition. Used on 442's and others. Will
>> sell for $75 plus shipping.
>
>Never mind folks.  I needed one to replace the bent one for the '87, he
>was just down the road, now it's in my trunk.  Thanks for the tip, Joe.
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 13:06:46 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Rear-end

In a message dated 98-07-01 08:42:57 EDT, you write:

<< 1)  I believe Drive Gear is usually a 1:1 ratio.  Anybody know for
 sure? >>

Yes, al of GM's "recent" trannies (probably '65 and later) are all 1 to 1
final drive, as far as I have ever seen. As far as all the formulas, Comp cams
website has a download called "Camquest", which has all kinds of
formulas...1/4 mile ET, Displacement, RPMs@MPH, carb size, theoretical air
flow, etc. Not 100% accurate, and I don't know how they are figuring HP, BHP
or SAE(?), but kinda handy, and fun to play with.    Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 13:28:41 -0400
From: "Wagner, John" <WagnerJo@pios.com>
Subject: RE: Signing off (temporarily)

See ya Joe..Have agood one.

John

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 13:30:49 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Rear-end

In a message dated 98-07-01 13:17:18 EDT, you write:

<< Yes, al of GM's "recent" trannies (probably '65 and later) are all 1 to 1
 final drive, as far as I have ever seen >>


Whoops..don't forget Overdrive!
              Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 13:36:27 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@leadbelt.com
Subject: color details & ramblings

Am in process of putting back together my 350  (a '68) after replacing cam,
lifters, timing set, heads, and intake manifold.

While putting balancer back on freshly repainted timing cover, noticed how
crappy the crank pulley looked (dirty, greasy, rusty). What color was it
originally? Sure can't tell from looking at it now. BTW, putting balancer
and timing cover back on were sure harder than taking them off.

FWIW, using Felcobond gasket cement for the first time --- really like it.
Scraping off old gaskets & residue really sucks, though gasket remover helps.

So, for those who know, what color was the pulley? Also, what color were
exhaust manifolds originally? Seems like anything I can tell what the color
once was all looks to have been gold???

tia

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 13:37:18 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: color details & ramblings

On my 69 W-31, the crank pulley was/is gold (if I remember right), mines
rusty and dirty too.  I believe the exhaust manifolds should be cast
gray, someone who knows for sure should be able to confirm or correct.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

>----------
>From: 	hitson@leadbelt.com[SMTP:hitson@leadbelt.com]
>Sent: 	Wednesday, July 01, 1998 1:36 PM
>To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: 	color details & ramblings
>
>Am in process of putting back together my 350  (a '68) after replacing cam,
>lifters, timing set, heads, and intake manifold.
>
>While putting balancer back on freshly repainted timing cover, noticed how
>crappy the crank pulley looked (dirty, greasy, rusty). What color was it
>originally? Sure can't tell from looking at it now. BTW, putting balancer
>and timing cover back on were sure harder than taking them off.
>
>FWIW, using Felcobond gasket cement for the first time --- really like it.
>Scraping off old gaskets & residue really sucks, though gasket remover helps.
>
>So, for those who know, what color was the pulley? Also, what color were
>exhaust manifolds originally? Seems like anything I can tell what the color
>once was all looks to have been gold???
>
>tia
>
>roger hitson
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 15:42:11 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: RE: Signing off (temporarily)

Gee Joe I wish I had almost a year of vacation time.:-) Have a great
vacation and don't spend all of your vacation time looking for Olds parts,
save time to eat also.


     ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,See you all June 20.
__________________

OK, OK, so now you know _why_ I need a vacation.  See you all JULY 20  ;-)

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 13:47:09 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: A/C Blower Problems

> When the fan is turned on, it makes a loud squealing like it
> needs to be lubricated.  If I turn it off and turn it back on,
> sometimes it goes away and works fine.

Most likely it's the worn shaft chattering in its bearings. Once
it starts vibrating and chattering, it'll keep on going; stop
and start it again just right, and if it gets up to speed smoothly
its inertia seems to prevent the shaft from grabbing on the worn
bearings. It'll quiet down in wet weather, too. But basically it's
on the way out.

> Is there anywhere to lubricate the blower motor or do I need to
> replace the motor?  How big of a project is this?  I was looking
> at it last night and it looks like getting to the blower is going
> to be a real nightmare!!

It's not much fun but there are worse projects. You probably need
to unbolt the lower portion of the right fender and wheelwell to
get in at it, if it's similar to the LeMans (and I think it is).

> Are the blower motors available in parts stores?

Yup. You'll need to unbolt the old squirrel cage and transfer it
to the new fan motor. If memory serves, the motor shaft has a flat
machined on it like a "D" pin, so you don't need to crank the
locking nut down horrendously tight when securing the old fan on
the new motor shaft.

- -- Andy

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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1342
*********************************
