Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1394


oldsmobile-digest      Wednesday, July 29 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1394



Re: '65 Cutlass Question
Re: RE: Trans cooler
Collectors plates
Re: 307 Olds
90 moostang gt convt want to trade for 442
RE: Trans cooler
RE: RE: Trans cooler
Price of Edelbrock Heads
Re: Ohio Collectors plates for 1987 442
Re: Olds in Virginia
Re: w-30 parts/prices
Re: Rust
UNBOUNCE: '76/'77 4-4-2 Grilles Needed
Re: Colorado Car Shows??
Re: Price of Edelbrock Heads
Re: Dual-gate adjustment
Re: Rust
Re: Price of Edelbrock Heads
Re: Price of Edelbrock Heads
Re: Price of Edelbrock Heads
razor blading
(horsepower) Re: How much timing to use?
68 Ign.
Re: RE: Trans cooler
Thanks
425 ID question
Re: hey g-body guys  !!
Pictures from OCA Nationals
Re: 350 Diesel Exhaust Manifolds
Re: 425 ID question
Exhaust Manifolds
1962 F85 for sale
Re: New Pictures are up
Vacuum tank
Re: w-30 parts/prices
body mount missing
'68 H/O Cam (was Re: Exhaust Manifolds)
DMR event  tune up
Re: 350 Diesel Exhaust Manifolds
Re: 68 Ign.
Web H*lp
Re: New Pictures are up
Re: Report from Carlisle
70 8-Track Case
Re: Rust
A body 2004R installation notes
Re: 1962 F85 for sale
Re: A body 2004R installation notes
Re: New burnout page
Master cyl bore size??new style master,long
I need some opinions on stripe color
Rear wheel cyl out of 68~72
Re: Master cyl bore size??new style master,long
Hood Latch Clips
Re: Price of Edelbrock Heads
Re: Price of Edelbrock Heads
Re: I need some opinions on stripe color
Re: Dual-gate adjustment
Re: Vacuum tank
Re:  307 Olds
Re: '68 H/O Cam (was Re: Exhaust Manifolds)
Olds in the Movies
Re: Hood Latch Clips
Re: I need some opinions on stripe color
Re: I need some opinions on stripe color
Re:  I need some opinions on stripe color
Re: A body 2004R installation notes

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 14:49:43 EDT
From: <GT5726@aol.com>
Subject: Re: '65 Cutlass Question

I would suggest getting all the A/c parts off of a 75 or later Olds...this is
beacuse of the fact that the "pov" system that came originally on the 65
cannot be retrofitted with 134A freon.The later models will fit with a little
work and they are the compatible "orifice tube" systems...I know this for a
fact as I'm currently doing this conversion on my '65 442. Don't expect much
help on this issue from this forum though...as Ive asked similar A/C questions
several times and no one here seems to know enough to respond...Collyn
Eastham...1965 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 98 14:55 EDT
From: Allen_R_MONROE@umail.umd.edu (am39)
Subject: Re: RE: Trans cooler

>Actually, to get maximum cooling, you should run the lines into the
>trans cooler and then back into the radiator. That way, you get a
>doubling effect, will also help spread the heat over a larger  surface
>area, helping disperse it better.
>
I run my tranny cooler the other way. I run through the rad first and then
through the extra cooler. If the engine is getting hot due to high outside
temps during summer weather I want my trans to run cooler than the engine.
The way you have it run the rad can heat up the fluid after the extra trans
cooler has cooled it down. In effect, no benefit. I hear people say that
during winter the trans might not get hot enough, but I have not had this
problem.
Allen Monroe                            Coordinator
Department of Physics                   Physics Majors' Laboratories
University of Maryland                  Voice===> 301-405-6004, 6002
College Park, MD 20742-4111             Email===> am39@umail.umd.edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 15:16:08 -0400
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: Collectors plates

Message text written by Mark Hahn
>On the other hand if they are giving you trouble with the collector
plates, you could go the long way by doing the E-Check dance. That is,
by having it tested 3 times and showing repairs that total $300. then
you can get an exemption. A real pain in the *ss, I know, but it is
another way around.<

I am not worried about the 442 passing the E-check.  I believe it will pass
just fine.  My concern is I don't want the E-check people to touch the car
(no offense to any E-check technicians on the list - it is more equipment
related).  I have seen some RWD vehicles running on the dyno rollers and it
is not a pretty sight on some vehicles, although Ohio just relaxed the
check so now it only runs 1.5 minutes up to 35 mph instead of 4 minutes up
to 65 mph (excluding vehicles that fast-pass).  If I really needed to get
around this, I would sign the title over to my dad and have it registered
in a non-E-check county.

Also, I like having special plates on the vehicle.  It raises even more
eyebrows than just the rarity of the vehicle (and the repeated "does it
have a 442 CI engine in it?")

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E & 4L60-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'96 DCM Impala SS   '87 Olds Cutlass 442  '95 Grand Prix

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 14:18:33 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: 307 Olds

Ran cooler, provided less upper rpm power than the stock iron on my 67
330.
Lots of weight reduction.
Brett Wilson

- -----Original Message-----
From: Weaver, Stanleigh G <Stanleigh.Weaver@PHL.Boeing.com>
To: 'Submit oldsmobile question' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 1:33 PM
Subject: 307 Olds


>Dear List members,
>
>has anyone installed an Edelbrock Performer (#3711) Intake and Performer
>Cam (#3712) into a 307 Olds engine? I have a 1984 (Non-roller) motor
>with 5A heads and am seriously considering these items as replacement
>for stock. If anyone has performed this upgrade, how did it run??
>
>Also, I'm looking for a G-body Posi rear, anyone have one for sell??
>
>SW, '84 Olds Cutlass Supreme
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 15:25:15 EDT
From: <SOMMERVLLE@aol.com>
Subject: 90 moostang gt convt want to trade for 442

Hey list, I just picked up a trade from a guy 1990 moostang gt convertable.The
car has all of the toy and isn't in bad shape it's blue and silver, with white
and blue interior. Needs a new top and a drivers seat recovered. The car runs
good 302/5spd mags, power everything 130k, looking for 4500 OBO. Wholesale on
the car is around 5500 or trade for 69 442 auto center console car (open to
other years to). I'm not looking to get rich just want another OLDS 442!!!!
I'm in Fayetteville NC and can transport around east coast. Willing to work a
deal (Quick before wife gets to attached to car) if any one interested or you
know a f*rd nut send them my way. Thanks Chris

SOMMERVLLE@AOL.COM
(910) 487-1540 Home
(910) 396-5420/2683 Work (The place that robs me of time with my cars)
>>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 15:45:21 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: Trans cooler

I'm not sure what the trans. temps should be. Installing a gauge for the
trans. is a good idea though.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Peter Landowski [SMTP:PETTRIX@prodigy.net]
> Sent:	Tuesday, July 28, 1998 2:33 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Re: Trans cooler
>
> OK, thanks for the advice. I'm going to get a Tran temp gauge put in,
> so
> like this I will know exactly what the temp should be.
> I heard that 170 - 200 F is where the temp should be, is that
> correct??
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
> ----------
> > From: Proietto, Fernando [Ontario] <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
> > To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> > Subject: RE: Trans cooler
> > Date: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 12:55 PM
> >
> > Actually, to get maximum cooling, you should run the lines into the
> > trans cooler and then back into the radiator. That way, you get a
> > doubling effect, will also help spread the heat over a larger
> surface
> > area, helping disperse it better.
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From:	Peter Landowski [SMTP:PETTRIX@prodigy.net]
> > > Sent:	Monday, July 27, 1998 10:25 PM
> > > To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > > Subject:	Trans cooler
> > >
> > > I recently installed a TH-400 in my 72 442 and instead of running
> the
> > > cooler lines into the radiator, I ran them directly into the
> outside
> > > trans
> > > cooler. It is a PermaCool trans cooler that is 3/4"wide and has
> about
> > > 4
> > > rows. It is mounted right in front of the radiator, so it gets
> good
> > > air-flow.
> > >
> > >  Is this a good set-up or is it better to have run the lines into
> the
> > > radiator??
> > > Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 15:48:29 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: RE: Trans cooler

Your right, I wrote it backwards.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Allen_R_MONROE@umail.umd.edu [SMTP:Allen_R_MONROE@umail.umd.edu]
> Sent:	Tuesday, July 28, 1998 2:55 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Re: RE: Trans cooler
>
> >Actually, to get maximum cooling, you should run the lines into the
> >trans cooler and then back into the radiator. That way, you get a
> >doubling effect, will also help spread the heat over a larger
> surface
> >area, helping disperse it better.
> >
> I run my tranny cooler the other way. I run through the rad first and
> then
> through the extra cooler. If the engine is getting hot due to high
> outside
> temps during summer weather I want my trans to run cooler than the
> engine.
> The way you have it run the rad can heat up the fluid after the extra
> trans
> cooler has cooled it down. In effect, no benefit. I hear people say
> that
> during winter the trans might not get hot enough, but I have not had
> this
> problem.
> Allen Monroe                            Coordinator
> Department of Physics                   Physics Majors' Laboratories
> University of Maryland                  Voice===> 301-405-6004, 6002
> College Park, MD 20742-4111             Email===> am39@umail.umd.edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 16:03:03 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Price of Edelbrock Heads

The new Jeg's came today, I instantly looked for the heads.
Price:

$1499.99

Ouch! Hope that comes with a free jar of Vaseline!

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
         777777 33333
            77      33
Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
          77        33
         77     33333
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 16:02:45 EDT
From: <R4C442@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Ohio Collectors plates for 1987 442

I think there is some confusion between "collector" and "historical" status.
It is my understanding that "collector" plates are renewable every year and
have no usage restrictions. They merely indicate that a vehicle is one that a
certain portion of the population consider collectable...more of a "status"
thing. The "historical" plate however requires that the vehicle be at least 25
years old and cannot be used as a daily driver. There is a one-time fee for
the historical plate. As a matter of fact, if you want to run a like year
plate you must still have historical plates somewhere in the car.

Ron Forsee

65 442-Meister

Dayton, Oh.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 16:11:29 EDT
From: <Spitty1500@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Olds in Virginia

it very well could----there is a big Oldsmobile Club in the tidewater region
of VA!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 16:16:00 EDT
From: <W30442CS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: w-30 parts/prices

i sell parts all the time(68-72),  400$ for a tilt colum?   good luck!  i
usually ask for 100$.   not knocking you, it`s your stuff.  respectfully  ,
steven.    w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 16:20:59 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Rust

As a boater, I've never heard of anything to attract rust. Unless I'm
mistaken (definitely possible) you're referring to the zinc ingots used on
boats. They prevent corrosion in other metals by sacrificing negative ions
in the water. The electrical system in a boat ultimately grounds to the
water causing metals to sacrifice ions. Thus props, shafts, outdrives etc.
corrode quickly. The zinc ingot sacrifices the ions in place of those
things. Thus, less corrosion on expensive parts. It would work on an
Oldsmobile (there's the Olds content!) if it was sitting in the water.

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Comid <Comid>
Date: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: Rust


>
>Received: from halifax.chebucto.ns.ca [129.173.4.205] by jellico.com with
smtp
> id AOAIADDK ; Tue, 28 Jul 1998 14:08:04 -0500
>Received: by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca id <36872-287>; Tue, 28 Jul 1998
15:03:37 -0300
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imo30.mx.aol.com" ident: "TIMEDOUT") by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca with ESMTP id
<35855-14695>; Tue, 28 Jul 1998 15:03:25 -0300
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> by imo30.mx.aol.com (IMOv14_b1.1) id WGLa026166
> for <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; Tue, 28 Jul 1998 14:03:18 -0400 (EDT)
>From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
>Message-ID: <3d30e4ce.35be1268@aol.com>
>Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 14:03:18 EDT
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Re: Rust
>X-Mailer: AOL 3.0 16-bit for Windows sub 41
>X-Orcpt: rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h
chebucto.ns.ca oldsmobile-mml"
>Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>In a message dated 98-07-28 11:52:06 EDT, you write:
>
><< Has anyone found a way to suspend the rust that forms inside the
> >rear
> >>      quarter panels around the wheel areas?  >>
>
>Just as a note, I don't know what's inside your quarter panels, but I fear
in
>the '75 Deltas the put a sound deadening material that inadvertantly works
as
>a sponge . That is why I have to redo my quarters every few years. Anyone
else
>notice this problem?  BTW on ships, they use a sacrificial metal (Ithink
it's
>magnesium) which draws the rust to it. I wonder if cars could do the same.
Any
>engineers care to comment?
>
>Bruce
>75 Delta 88 Conv.
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 17:29:11 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '76/'77 4-4-2 Grilles Needed

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	talcarol@erie.net (Chris Kugler)
Subject: need '76-'77 442 grill

I urgently need the grills for my '77 442.  If none are available I'll
gladly except '76 grills.  Please reply.  You can e-mail me direct at
talcarol@erie.net if you want.

Thanks,
Chris Kugler
1977 Cutlass S 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 16:26:47 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Colorado Car Shows??

I know this is a late request considering I'm leaving on Thursday Morning,
but if anyone knows of any car shows, in the Denver, Fort Collins, Aspen,
Frisco area ...

- -Steve
_________________

Steve,

Try http://www.hemmings.com/hemmings/htm/searchal.htm

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 16:30:06 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Price of Edelbrock Heads

Ouch is my first response too. BUT . . . then I remember the cost of doing
all of the mods to iron heads (about $900). Considering that the aluminum
heads will flow better out of the box than my ported, polished, big valved,
riser filled, exhaust welded iron heads, AND the probably weigh half of what
the iron heads weigh, I'd pay $1500 for them.

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Comid <Comid>
Date: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 4:05 PM
Subject: Price of Edelbrock Heads


>
>Received: from halifax.chebucto.ns.ca [129.173.4.205] by jellico.com with
smtp
> id BAAEBNBL ; Tue, 28 Jul 1998 16:04:34 -0500
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16:59:42 -0300
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edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu" ident: "root") by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca with SMTP id
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> via sendmail with smtp
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> for <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; Tue, 28 Jul 1998 15:59:14 -0400 (EDT)
> (Smail-3.2.0.93 1997-Apr-12 #2 built 1998-Jul-8)
>Message-ID: <35BDE824.3D0A@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
>Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 16:03:03 +0100
>From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
>Organization: Home
>X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01Gold (Macintosh; I; PPC)
>To: Oldsmobile List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Subject: Price of Edelbrock Heads
>X-Orcpt: rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h
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>Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>The new Jeg's came today, I instantly looked for the heads.
>Price:
>
>$1499.99
>
>Ouch! Hope that comes with a free jar of Vaseline!
>
>--
>*************
>Matt Cremean
>mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
>+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
>         777777 33333
>            77      33
>Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
>          77        33
>         77     33333
>+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
>http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
>**************************************************
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 16:31:46 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Dual-gate adjustment

My Dual-gate in my 72 442 does not want to go into manual 1st gear. It
seems that the cable needs to be shortened or something to allow the trans
to go into manual 1st. I took the console apart and I'm not sure how to
adjust this.

 I switched froma TH-350 to a TH-400, could this also be a reason why? It
needs about 1/4 or 1/2 an inch more to allow it to lock into manual 1.

Anyone who knows, your help would be appreciated.....
Pettrix@prodigy.net
_________________

Two things.  First, the bracket that holds the cable on the transmission
end is different between the TH400 and TH350.  The wrong bracket will mess
up the cable adjustment.  Second, the adjustability is at the transmission
end, not the console end.  The pin on the transmission's shift arm to which
the cable attaches is adjustable.  The pin sits in a slotted hole and is
held in place with a nut.  Loosen the nut, slide the pin, tighten the nut.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 16:37:29 EDT
From: <W30442CS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Rust

i have used muratic acid with great results,  a friend who had a body shop for
over 30 years recommended it to me.  he was a machinist in the navy before
that.  i believe most of the rust inhibiters today use some sort of acid in
them, (correct me if im wrong here guys).  i use it on any bare metal im
working on, rust or not, then a rust inhibitive primer.   steven,
w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 16:46:22 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Price of Edelbrock Heads

...Considering that the aluminum heads will flow better out of the box than
my ported, polished, big valved, riser filled, exhaust welded iron heads,
AND the probably weigh half of what the iron heads weigh,...
_________________

I thought the articles on the heads last year had quoted Joe M as saying
the Edelbrock heads flowed about like "C" heads out of the box - in other
words you still needed to pay him big bucks to port them.  On the other
hand, I think the density of aluminum is closer to a _third_ that of cast
iron.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 16:15:29 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: Price of Edelbrock Heads

Anybody got a flow bench??
:)

>I thought the articles on the heads last year had quoted Joe M as saying
>the Edelbrock  heads flowed about like "C" heads out of the box

He did design them.

This would be interesting to look into.

Brett Wilson

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 16:15:23 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Re: Price of Edelbrock Heads

Matt Cremean wrote:
>
> The new Jeg's came today, I instantly looked for the heads.
> Price:
>
> $1499.99
>
> Ouch! Hope that comes with a free jar of Vaseline!
>
> --
> *************
> Matt Cremean
> mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
>          777777 33333
>             77      33
> Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
>           77        33
>          77     33333
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
> **************************************************



Performance Automotive Warehouse quoted me $1299 for the set. That was 2
months ago, not sure if its still good.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 17:50:31 EDT
From: <JMoakBOTH@aol.com>
Subject: razor blading

I recently had my car professionally painted.  He used a razor blade and
peeled long strips of paint in some area of the car.  In other areas the paint
would not come off with a razor and he had to sand.  The part that did peel
was because when I painted it 5 years ago I used some wrong primer and wrong
paint and wrong methods.  In other words I did not know what I was doing.
This is the only time I have seen it done but the painter was fimilar with the
process.

Johnny Moak
71 cutlass conv

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 17:00:11 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: (horsepower) Re: How much timing to use?

 Question, how do you know you have
>325HP? What are your engine spec's.? Just curious, as I also have a
350
>4BBl, but have no clue what kind of HP. A mondello cam...etc. Let me
>know.
>
I have no idea, I'm guessing.  I figured saying 325HP was easier than
saying: 350 bored .030 over, TRW forged pistons, molly rings, Crane
260/272 cam, variable duration lifters, Competition cams magnum roller
rocker kit, Performer intake, timing chain and 600cfm carb, Mallory
Unilite distributor, MSD-6AL (currently pulled out until timing
problem fixed), 1971 heads gasket matched on intake side, 3 angle
valve job, SS valves, exhaust A.I.R. bumps ground out, headers, dual 2
1/4" exhaust with crossover.  Mondello personally told me this setup
should be good for 350HP, but I made a more conservative guess.  The
car last ran a 14.5 1/4mile through the mufflers with a 3.08 rear end.

This was a few years ago before the timing went to crap.  I'm waiting
for Mallory to call me back, the distributor won't hold it's timing
and the advance jumps all over the place.

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 17:16:05 -0500 (EST)
From: jhbII <jh2nlla@noblecan.org>
Subject: 68 Ign.

HI There, Call John Green @416 724 4405, He just got done repoing these.
From what I understand, he sent 10 of these to the Nationals last week and
sold them all on the first day!! John is a great guy, PLEASE tell him Jack
told you. Please keep me posted, I hope these are what you were looking for.
Jack

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 18:45:57 -0400
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Re: RE: Trans cooler

I'd say the "oil cooler first" idea makes more sense.  The tranny makes a
lot of heat under heavy loads; racing, towing, etc., and may run as hot as
300 degrees or more.  The heat dissipation of the trans cooler is dependent
on "delta T" of difference between trans fluid and ambient air.  You would
get about 100% more cooling from the unit, if it were before the radiator,
in the example above (assume a 200 deg. radiator, at 100 deg ambient temp).

- -----Original Message-----
From: am39 <Allen_R_MONROE@umail.umd.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 2:56 PM
Subject: Re: RE: Trans cooler


>>Actually, to get maximum cooling, you should run the lines into the
>>trans cooler and then back into the radiator. That way, you get a
>>doubling effect, will also help spread the heat over a larger  surface
>>area, helping disperse it better.
>>
>I run my tranny cooler the other way. I run through the rad first and then
>through the extra cooler. If the engine is getting hot due to high outside
>temps during summer weather I want my trans to run cooler than the engine.
>The way you have it run the rad can heat up the fluid after the extra trans
>cooler has cooled it down. In effect, no benefit. I hear people say that
>during winter the trans might not get hot enough, but I have not had this
>problem.
>Allen Monroe                            Coordinator
>Department of Physics                   Physics Majors' Laboratories
>University of Maryland                  Voice===> 301-405-6004, 6002
>College Park, MD 20742-4111             Email===> am39@umail.umd.edu
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 18:43:58 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Thanks

Thanks very much to all of you who responded to my desperate plea for the
measurement of the height of a stock 455 manifold.

jp

Jonathan Parke
mailto:jonparke@together.net
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 19:18:01 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: 425 ID question

I'm going to look at a motor that is supoosedly a 425.

I looked in the FAQ and saw that in '65 the code is "A" with casting number
381917?? and in '66-'67 the code is "D" with casting number 389244.
Further, I read that the "D" motor is different internally if it is a Toro.

1)  How can I tell a Toro "D" motor (which is what I want) from looking at
it externally?

2)  If I can't, what do I have to do to figure it out?  I assume the guy
isn't going to let me take much apart.

3)  How is the motor worth in decent shape?

TIA

jp

Jonathan Parke
mailto:jonparke@together.net
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 17:33:57 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: hey g-body guys  !!

Actually, I think this discussion has gone around before and, I'm not sure,
but I think the general consensus is that both manifolds flow about the
same.  I do think the tubular ones have the same size ports as the cast iron
mani's, but don't necessarily flow better.

Regardless, I don't have any tubular ones, but let us know if you find them
and get more flow with 'em.

Jason Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock/

- -----Original Message-----
From: erik HILL <ehill@gowebway.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, July 26, 1998 5:58 PM
Subject: hey g-body guys !!


>does anyone have a set of those
>tubular exh.manifolds talked about awhile ago
>for an '88.
>
>they should flow alittle better than the regular cast iron style, right
>??
>
>erik.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 19:57:23 -0400
From: "John Richmond" <richmond@tir.com>
Subject: Pictures from OCA Nationals

I have uploaded pictures from the Oldsmobile Club
of America to my home page. Check them out at
http://www.tir.com/~richmond/ocanat.html
Give me some reviews.

John Richmond
richmond@tir.com   or   jwr10@chrysler.com
Warren, MI
72 442/455

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 20:33:25 +0000
From: ejhufnagel@juno.com (Edward J. Hufnagel)
Subject: Re: 350 Diesel Exhaust Manifolds

On Sun, 26 Jul 1998 22:07:34 -0300 (ADT) Greg Beaulieu
<ab348@chebucto.ns.ca> writes:


>Again, hearsay, but I understand that they are identical to other 350
>manifolds and use a blockoff plate on the crossover inlet on the right
>

           My 350 Diesel has single outlet on each exhaust manifold and
the pass. side does not have one capped off

E.J.



_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 20:51:18 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 425 ID question

In a message dated 98-07-28 19:14:53 EDT, you write:

<< I looked in the FAQ and saw that in '65 the code is "A" with casting number
 381917?? >>

My "A" block has "386525 A" (I could be wrong, not looking at it now)
In raised letters to the right of the oil fill tube on the "shelf" above the
water pump.

"A" blocks came from the factory with either "A" or "B" heads.

Now; IDing the Toro 425 "D"...
You mentioned the FAQ. Very good.
Consult the section at the end of "Engines" where there is a section called
"Cam Bank Angle Considerations"
(Yup guys, here we go again.)

This section describes how to ID the 39 degree cam bank angle block.
All 1966-67 Toros (that were known of at the writing) have a 39 degree block
AND 0.921" diameter lifters (~$100 each, if the block is Toro "D", get any
spare lifters owner may have.....).

And if you have further Qs, I may be able to forward some "dialogue" from this
list about what the drill spot actually looks like.

Hope this helped.

KA&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 18:06:58 -0700
From: "Corey Day" <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Exhaust Manifolds

I am currently taking a 455 from a 68 Delta and putting it into
a 70 Cutlass S with a turbo 400, what exhaust manifolds will work correctly
for this setup?

Also does anyone have a good source for the 68 Hurst Olds Cam Olds PN#
400165?

Corey Day
dayc@ix.netcom.com
www.netcom.com/~dayc/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 18:10:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: John <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: 1962 F85 for sale

Hi gang,
         For sale 1962 Cutlass F85, approx 60,000 original miles.
Runs and drives. 185 hp V8, automatic, bucket seats. Car is all
original. Also have parts car that goes with it. $2200.00 OBO. Car is
located in Hiram, GA--- west of Atlanta. Contact Chris Norris at
770-489-7773 home or 770-382-1490 work. Or if interested e-mail me and
I will forward to Chris.
Thanks,
John




==
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73 http://www.442.com/mcjunkin.html
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof-307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!
 mailto:super442@yahoo.com


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 21:20:40 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: New Pictures are up

Oldsmagnet wrote:
>
> Got weekend pics back today, and ~already~ added 'em to their respective
> pages...  Most of the updates are on the 67 Ninety Eight Convertible

Charley,

Ran into a guy at our Chapter show back in June.  I had my '67 Ninety
Eight Holiday Coupe there.  He want's to sell me a '67 Ninety Eight
Convertible, white with a maroon interior for $600.  Hope it looks a
little better than yours...

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 21:33:53 -0400
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: Vacuum tank

My power disk brakes on my 69 442 "lack power" due to a radical cam
shaft....not enough manifold vaccum.  I've been thinking of adding an
original vacuum tank if I can find one.  I plan on running a hose from
the manifold to the vacuum tank and from the tank to the power brake
booster.  Anybody got any comments....will this help?  Does anyone have
one or know if they are still available through GM.  Thanks.  Wayne
Schwartz.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 21:26:10 -0400
From: Matthew Clark <hazmatt@tiac.net>
Subject: Re: w-30 parts/prices

$100 for a 68-72 tilt column!!   What a deal, most of the prices that i have
seen start at $200 with a plane jane wheel.   This could be a result of the
exhorbitant rates that people from the Northeast charge and consequently pay.

W30442CS@aol.com wrote:

> i sell parts all the time(68-72),  400$ for a tilt colum?   good luck!  i
> usually ask for 100$.   not knocking you, it`s your stuff.  respectfully  ,
> steven.    w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 21:29:23 -0400
From: Leroy Truax <tabby@cardina.net>
Subject: body mount missing

Hey List:    Just picked up a 68 cutless and its missing a couple of rear
body mounts, they are rusted right off the body . please let me know if it
is fixable? Rest of body is just great.  Thanks  Leroy
- -----Original Message-----
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com <SOMMERVLLE@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, July 27, 1998 12:45 PM
Subject: engine degreaser


>hey list:
>just got a motor and it is a mess!!!! Need thge name of that degreaser that
>went around the list a couple of weeks ago. To see if it really works that
>good. was iy gumout or stp? thanks chris
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 22:31:40 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: '68 H/O Cam (was Re: Exhaust Manifolds)

On Tue, 28 Jul 1998, Corey Day wrote:
> Also does anyone have a good source for the 68 Hurst Olds Cam Olds PN#
> 400165?

I thought these were still available new from PAW and also Fusick's.
Didn't Chris Witt also offer these?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 21:32:03 -0500
From: "patrick derkacz" <patrickd@wwnet.com>
Subject: DMR event  tune up

I apologize if this message is being resent but my e-mail just came back up
and I am unsure if it went out the first time.  If it is the first time
then-nevermind.


>
>I am getting the '69 442 conv. ready for the DMR event in august at Norwalk
and being the novice that I am I need some advice on setting this thing up.
>
>First, I have a Holley 750  that is running very rich.  Can someone
please give a step by step of setting this correctly?
>
>Also,   I just set the timing, after replacing the cam, so it has about 10
degrees initial(at idle w/o vacuum advance hooked up) and about 35 under
load(about 4000 rpm w/ vacuum advance hooked up-HEI).  Is this right? Again,
any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
>How do you know if your distributor is curved right?  Do you change it by
changing the springs in the distributor?  How can you tell if you need
>heavier or lighter springs?
>
>I appreciate all reponses because I know I don't jack and it would probably
take me years to figure out what the list members can  tell me overnight.
>
>Before the race what should I go through?  Should I replace and gap the
plugs? .045 right?  I just changed the oil and topped off the trans fluid
and plan on checking the rear end fluid.  Am I missing anything?
>

>>patrickd@wwnet.com
>>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 22:33:35 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 350 Diesel Exhaust Manifolds

On Tue, 28 Jul 1998, Edward J. Hufnagel wrote:
>            My 350 Diesel has single outlet on each exhaust manifold and
> the pass. side does not have one capped off

Wow! That's news to me. Could you forward casting numbers and/or part
numbers? I know we had this discussion a couple of years ago and I was
sure the conclusion was they were identical to others. Always learn
something new here... :)

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 22:35:23 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 68 Ign.

On Tue, 28 Jul 1998, jhbII wrote:

> HI There, Call John Green @416 724 4405, He just got done repoing these.
> >From what I understand, he sent 10 of these to the Nationals last week and
> sold them all on the first day!! John is a great guy, PLEASE tell him Jack
> told you. Please keep me posted, I hope these are what you were looking for.

I didn't know John was reproing these but I can vouch for the fact he is
great to deal with. Anyone know if the retaining bezels for other
switches are the same as these?


Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 21:38:33 EDT
From: <Cnvrt67@aol.com>
Subject: Web H*lp

can someone who is a member of the olds webring and who uses aol mail me. i
need to ask a question. thanks.

Brent

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 19:44:38 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: New Pictures are up

> I had my '67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe there.  He want's to sell me a
> '67 Ninety Eight Convertible, white with a maroon interior for $600.  > Hope
it looks a little better than yours...

~That~ shouldn't be very hard!  :)  FWIW, I paid $800 for mine, with rebuilt
425, still in crate.

Got any pictures of yours?  Plan on getting some for the convert???  I'm still
crushed that they crushed the parts car I was chasing.  A 67 Delmont 88 had 
been
in someone's backyard here, and now ~it~ disappeared, too...  I ~hope~ it 
didn't
meet a tragic end!  :(  Don't need much for parts, front end is the worst of
it.  Car's mostly complete, just needs the TLC and time of getting it together.
Someday.....



- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 22:05:31 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Report from Carlisle

Todd,

FWIW, my 70 C/S SX has the cutout bumper and didn't come with the sway bar or
boxed control arms.  The rear end is a 2.56 to 1 non-Anti-Spin model, and the
engine was the 455 2V model.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 22:09:26 EDT
From: <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: 70 8-Track Case

I picked up an 8-Track player at the nat's but it didn't have the casing. Does
anyone have a case in good condition with no cracks for sale?
Thanks,
Jim McKeague
========================================
Home Page - http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html
1998 OCA Nat's Pictures - http://members.aol.com/DROLDS455/nats.html
Rallye 350 Restoration - http://members.aol.com/JMCKEA7747/resto.html
========================================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 22:10:43 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Rust

In a message dated 98-07-28 16:22:34 EDT, you write:

<< zinc ingots used on boats. They prevent corrosion in other metals by
sacrificing negative ions in the water. The electrical system in a boat
ultimately grounds to the
 water causing metals to sacrifice ions. >>

Hmmm.
Karl not heard that explanation before.
Mebbe boat needs to be at a lower potential than the seawater.

Which brings me to Magnesium.
The formation of Magnesium Oxides from Magnesium metal has a definite
potential for the trasfer of the electrons that occurs in that process.

The oxidation of Iron occurs with a higher electrical potential.

The potential of such reactions determines whether the process is
"spontaneous" or not.

Thus, as long as the Iron is in good contact with the magnesium, the Magnesium
should always oxidize first.

Rusting is spontaneous. Losing oxygen to form the metal from the rust is NOT
spontaneous.

There is however, an outfit in the Greater Chicago Area that will immerse your
parts in a tank (a galvanic cell perhaps?) and pass sufficient current though
them to "reduce" the Iron Oxides to Iron metal.

Called something like "Ready-Strip" or "Reddy Strip"....

Wonder what they charge for dipping whole car (at once of course.....).

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 21:18:46 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@wans.net>
Subject: A body 2004R installation notes

Well I have finished installing my 2004R in the '70. I only had 2
difficulties.

The first one I solved my self - On A body cars w/column shift, the
bottom shift linkage arm going to the transmission is about 3/4 inch too
short. The arm would not stay in the pivot cup. To solve this, I removed
the pivot cup from the frame, bought some longer bolts and spaced it out
from the frame with 2 nuts on each bolt. This effectively moved the
pivot cup out far enough to catch the linkage arm end.


The second one I need some help - Now that the crossmember has been
located from the TH-350 to the TH-400 position, the hook that holds the
parking brake cable on the crossmember is too far back to take up the
slack and there is not enough adjustment to compensate. Anyone who has
done a TH-400 or TH-2004R swap have a solution for this?


Thanks

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 19:41:48 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: 1962 F85 for sale

John wrote:

> Hi gang,
>          For sale 1962 Cutlass F85, approx 60,000 original miles.

good luck John. I've advertised my 62 for sale for over a week now and had two
people coment on the nice lines, but not offers. Kinda nice, yet depressing
because nobody wants to even look at it.

Ben

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 19:45:12 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: A body 2004R installation notes

Stephen Hoover wrote:

> Well I have finished installing my 2004R in the '70.
>
> Now that the crossmember has been
> located from the TH-350 to the TH-400 position, the hook that holds the
> parking brake cable on the crossmember is too far back to take up the
> slack and there is not enough adjustment to compensate. Anyone who has
> done a TH-400 or TH-2004R swap have a solution for this?
>
> Thanks
>
> Stephen Hoover
> Dallas, Texas
> '70 Supreme


Stephen,
Your best bet would be to use a TH400 intermediate cable.  Another option
would be to reposition the two cable idlers further outboard.  This may take
up the slack.
(We do carry the 70 TH400 intermediate cable if you need).

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 23:06:39 EDT
From: <RCKTPWR@aol.com>
Subject: Re: New burnout page

I have burnout pics of my OLDS powered 79 10th T/A i can send ya.

Bernie

Sold it last year........................

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 23:08:12 EDT
From: <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Master cyl bore size??new style master,long

I remember reading that someone put a new style master(plastic res.) on there
car. Anyone have any ideas. What is the bore size of a stock 72 cutlass with
front disk. I read if your bore size is larger, than more force is needed on
the pedal. My pedal now is hard as ^*$#@ and im thinking maybe those clowns at
the autostore gave me the wrong one. And yes everything in my car is new
booster,calipers,12''rotors,7/8 wheel cylinders,lines,proportion valve,etc.
And Vacc at the booster is 18. Car still stops like crap.I dought i could get
them to lock up. Im going to upgrade the rear's to 11'' drums next. Ive been
trying to find fittings to bypass the proportion valve and add an adjustable
one but no body has them. Cant really cut stainless lines and reflare them.
Some one mentioned that they bought 13 drums from muscle car headquarters i
went there today he said no such animal. Only 11''.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 20:10:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: I need some opinions on stripe color

  I'm getting my car painted next week.  It's a 70 Cutlass 'S' and I'm
painting it either Twilight blue or Astro Blue.  My question is this,
what color stripes should I get, black or gold?  I've got a blue
interior.  I was pretty sure of black, but I saw a blue 442 with gold
stripes over the weekend and I kind of liked it.  Man, I hate big
decisions.  I was just wondering what you guys' opinions are.


TIA
Stefan
sgadecki@yahoo.com
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 23:31:38 EDT
From: <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Rear wheel cyl out of 68~72

In 66 and 68 there is an option for 15/16 diameter wheel cyl. Any idea if
these will fit 72's 7/8?? Thats only .062'' bigger but i think bigger is
really better.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 20:48:52 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Master cyl bore size??new style master,long

AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com wrote:

> I remember reading that someone put a new style master(plastic res.) on there
> car. Anyone have any ideas. What is the bore size of a stock 72 cutlass with
> front disk. I read if your bore size is larger, than more force is needed on
> the pedal. My pedal now is hard as ^*$#@ and im thinking maybe those clowns 
at
> the autostore gave me the wrong one. And yes everything in my car is new
> booster,calipers,12''rotors,7/8 wheel cylinders,lines,proportion valve,etc.
> And Vacc at the booster is 18. Car still stops like crap.I dought i could get
> them to lock up. Im going to upgrade the rear's to 11'' drums next. Ive been
> trying to find fittings to bypass the proportion valve and add an adjustable
> one but no body has them. Cant really cut stainless lines and reflare them.
> Some one mentioned that they bought 13 drums from muscle car headquarters i
> went there today he said no such animal. Only 11''.

_______

The stock 72 Cutlass power disc master cylinder bore diameter is 1.125"

I noticed you replaced the power booster.  Something you might check is the
location of the clevis pin from the booster to the brake pedal.  Power brake
applications use the lower hole in the pedal.  If inadvertently installed in 
the
upper hole (for manual brakes) the working angle of the rod is off and will be
in a bind, causing a rock hard pedal and poor braking abilities. Just a
thought...

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 21:00:30 -0500
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Hood Latch Clips

Has anyone seen a source for the little metal clips which are used to
retain the rods on the hood release mechanism on a '69 Cutlass?  Mine has a
total of three which are rusted and are constantly causing the thr rods to
come loose.


Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 23:08:17 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Price of Edelbrock Heads

Actually the Edelbrock heads flow ALOT beter than stock C heads. They also
have a better chamber design. Right out of the box Edelbrock heads would
probably outflow a Street/Strip port job on any cast iron Olds head. Check
out the Mondello web site for flow.
For $1500.00 these heads are a deal considering the cost to have a stock
head port and polished. Plus with Edelbrock you have the weight reduction.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Brett Wilson <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Price of Edelbrock Heads
> Date: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 4:15 PM
>
> Anybody got a flow bench??
> :)
>
> >I thought the articles on the heads last year had quoted Joe M as saying
> >the Edelbrock  heads flowed about like "C" heads out of the box
>
> He did design them.
>
> This would be interesting to look into.
>
> Brett Wilson
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 21:15:56 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Price of Edelbrock Heads

It's all fine and dandy to hear talk about the heads. Since they will either
ship this week or next week it's finally become a reality. One catch though.
I've got many inside sources that tell me they (edelbrock) in the end only have
50 or less heads ready for the first shipping. That is 1/3 less than the total
they were supposed to ship, 150 sets. I've been waiting for 8 months now and
sorry to say it, but edelbrock cares nothing about the customer, only money.
So, if anybody orders a set don't be surprised to wait about a year for your
set. It's sad that they actually stop the Olds production to make some ch*vy
heads... It's a shame what the world is coming to... :-(

Ben
62 Olds f-85 (forsale!!!) http://www.primenet.com/~olds442/forsale.html
68 Olds 442 (still waiting on heads!!!) Will sell my cast iron for a pretty
penny real soon! any offers?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 23:17:49 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: I need some opinions on stripe color

Go with the black stripes or even white. The gold would look gaudy on a
blue car. If the car was black I would say go with gold stripes. Go with
the black(even white) stripes.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: I need some opinions on stripe color
> Date: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 10:10 PM
>
>
>   I'm getting my car painted next week.  It's a 70 Cutlass 'S' and I'm
> painting it either Twilight blue or Astro Blue.  My question is this,
> what color stripes should I get, black or gold?  I've got a blue
> interior.  I was pretty sure of black, but I saw a blue 442 with gold
> stripes over the weekend and I kind of liked it.  Man, I hate big
> decisions.  I was just wondering what you guys' opinions are.
>
>
> TIA
> Stefan
> sgadecki@yahoo.com
> 1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 23:19:00 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Dual-gate adjustment

Thanks, I figured it out today by playing around with it. Thanks.....
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Dual-gate adjustment
> Date: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 3:31 PM
>
> My Dual-gate in my 72 442 does not want to go into manual 1st gear. It
> seems that the cable needs to be shortened or something to allow the
trans
> to go into manual 1st. I took the console apart and I'm not sure how to
> adjust this.
>
>  I switched froma TH-350 to a TH-400, could this also be a reason why? It
> needs about 1/4 or 1/2 an inch more to allow it to lock into manual 1.
>
> Anyone who knows, your help would be appreciated.....
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
> _________________
>
> Two things.  First, the bracket that holds the cable on the transmission
> end is different between the TH400 and TH350.  The wrong bracket will
mess
> up the cable adjustment.  Second, the adjustability is at the
transmission
> end, not the console end.  The pin on the transmission's shift arm to
which
> the cable attaches is adjustable.  The pin sits in a slotted hole and is
> held in place with a nut.  Loosen the nut, slide the pin, tighten the
nut.
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 70 W-30
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 23:21:06 -0500
From: "Jim and Pat Juon" <jimpat@netins.net>
Subject: Re: Vacuum tank

Diesels used hyd from the power steering pump to power the brakes.  Just
food for thought.

- ----------
> From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
> To: olds chat <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Vacuum tank
> Date: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 8:33 PM
>
> My power disk brakes on my 69 442 "lack power" due to a radical cam
> shaft....not enough manifold vaccum.  I've been thinking of adding an
> original vacuum tank if I can find one.  I plan on running a hose from
> the manifold to the vacuum tank and from the tank to the power brake
> booster.  Anybody got any comments....will this help?  Does anyone have
> one or know if they are still available through GM.  Thanks.  Wayne
> Schwartz.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 00:30:02 EDT
From: <JJP442@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  307 Olds

I installed the Edelbrock performer intake on my 307HO with a cam upgrade
also,
It has never let me down yet. (it's been a few years now). I think you'll be
pleased.
Good Luck,
JJP442@aol.com

My stable;
1983 15th Anniversary Hurst Olds
1987 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 21:18:51 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: '68 H/O Cam (was Re: Exhaust Manifolds)

sealed power (speed-pro) still makes this grind but I dont know the number
off the top of my head...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 6:32 PM
Subject: '68 H/O Cam (was Re: Exhaust Manifolds)


>On Tue, 28 Jul 1998, Corey Day wrote:
>> Also does anyone have a good source for the 68 Hurst Olds Cam Olds PN#
>> 400165?
>
>I thought these were still available new from PAW and also Fusick's.
>Didn't Chris Witt also offer these?
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 23:44:50 -0500
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: Olds in the Movies

Hey folks,
               Saw a promo on HBO last night for a movie they'll be
showing Thur., Aug. 6 at 8 pm CDT.  Wasn't paying too much attention,
until somebody playing a sheriff's deputy got on the radio and said,
"...suspect is in a black 4-4-2."  (Well, he really said four-forty-two,
but I didn't want to rehash THAT old thread...)  Title of the movie is
"Black Cat Run".  Schedule says it was made in '98, must be an HBO
original.  Some young man is searching for his girlfriend's kidnappers,
while he's running from the law for being wrongly accused of killing her
daddy, the Sheriff.  Didn't see a wide shot of the 442, possibly a '69
or '70 model.  Plot sounds weak, but at least it's got an Olds in it.
(I just hope they don't wreck it or blow it up...)

Later,

Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
Columbus, MS         1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html
http://www.442.com/newmantape.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 21:22:16 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Hood Latch Clips

check the auveco catalog they should have it..kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 9:01 PM
Subject: Hood Latch Clips


>Has anyone seen a source for the little metal clips which are used to
>retain the rods on the hood release mechanism on a '69 Cutlass?  Mine has a
>total of three which are rusted and are constantly causing the thr rods to
>come loose.
>
>
>Lloyd Ferguson
>ferguson@1stnetusa.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 21:27:00 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: I need some opinions on stripe color

what is the interior color the stripes should match or contrast with the
interior...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 9:17 PM
Subject: Re: I need some opinions on stripe color


>Go with the black stripes or even white. The gold would look gaudy on a
>blue car. If the car was black I would say go with gold stripes. Go with
>the black(even white) stripes.
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>----------
>> From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: I need some opinions on stripe color
>> Date: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 10:10 PM
>>
>>
>>   I'm getting my car painted next week.  It's a 70 Cutlass 'S' and I'm
>> painting it either Twilight blue or Astro Blue.  My question is this,
>> what color stripes should I get, black or gold?  I've got a blue
>> interior.  I was pretty sure of black, but I saw a blue 442 with gold
>> stripes over the weekend and I kind of liked it.  Man, I hate big
>> decisions.  I was just wondering what you guys' opinions are.
>>
>>
>> TIA
>> Stefan
>> sgadecki@yahoo.com
>> 1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
>> _________________________________________________________
>> DO YOU YAHOO!?
>> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 00:46:57 EDT
From: <Spitty1500@aol.com>
Subject: Re: I need some opinions on stripe color

Why not go with White stripes....I like the way that they look....gold is
always a little tacky I think

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 00:53:13 EDT
From: <JJP442@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  I need some opinions on stripe color

Be daring! The blue/black, blue/white combo is to routine for me, how about a
pale blue? It's different but yet from a distance looks white.
Good Luck,
JJP442@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 23:51:27 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Re: A body 2004R installation notes

Greg Rollin wrote:
>
> Stephen Hoover wrote:
>
> > Well I have finished installing my 2004R in the '70.
> >
> > Now that the crossmember has been
> > located from the TH-350 to the TH-400 position, the hook that holds the
> > parking brake cable on the crossmember is too far back to take up the
> > slack and there is not enough adjustment to compensate. Anyone who has
> > done a TH-400 or TH-2004R swap have a solution for this?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Stephen Hoover
> > Dallas, Texas
> > '70 Supreme
>
> Stephen,
> Your best bet would be to use a TH400 intermediate cable.  Another option
> would be to reposition the two cable idlers further outboard.  This may take
> up the slack.
> (We do carry the 70 TH400 intermediate cable if you need).
>
> Greg Rollin
> Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
> Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249
> http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
> E-mail: supercars@transport.com

Is replaceing that cable as horrible as it looks? Are the cable hooks
and hook locations the same on the TH-400 crossmember and TH-350
crossmember?

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1394
*********************************
