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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1332


oldsmobile-digest        Friday, June 26 1998        Volume 01 : Number 1332



Re: FOR SALE: 69 CUTLASS FRONT FENDERS
Re: FOR SALE: 69 CUTLASS FRONT FENDERS
Re: FOR SALE: 69 CUTLASS FRONT FENDERS
68-69 fenders
Re: 71 taillight lenses found
off till 7/20
Re: FOR SALE: 69 CUTLASS FRONT FENDERS
RE: '69 w30 and w31 owners
Re: Sport wheel horn button
Re: Stripping chrome from plastic?
Re: rechrome plastic
Re: aftermarket seat color selection...
307 Performance
Re: Temp (cooling) questions + some
Re: Sport wheel horn button
Re: Question: Tilt Steering Wobble Side-to-Side
Re: Temp (cooling) questions + some
Re: 68-69 fenders
Re: Temp (cooling) questions + some
'86 307-9 A/C
RE: 68-69 fenders
Re: '86 307-9 A/C
Re: Temp (cooling) questions + some
Braking problems
'86 Salon/grille
Re: 71 taillight lenses
Re: 68-69 fenders
Re: Officers of the law question
Re: 68-69 fenders
Re: Calibrating a Rally Pack Tach
Re: Officers of the law question
UNSUBSCRIBE OLDSMOBILE
Re: 425 Timing
Re: 'C' Heads
'49-'54 dual quad intake on ebay
Re: 425 Timing
Re: alternators
Re: 1975 442
re:  307 VIN 9
RE: '69 w30 and w31 owners
Re: '86 307-9 A/C
Re: '86 307-9 A/C
Re: 1975 442
'57, '42 Manuals Found
Re: Officers of the law question
Padnos is so cool
69 442 paint
Re: Oxygen sensor
Another Toro f/sale
A/C Diagnosis
'68/9 OAI scoops
Re: Officers of the law question
Re: '86 Salon/grille
Re: museum visit & storm tips.
Tranny Rebuild... (long)
Re: Re:85 Cutlass?
Re: '69 w30 and w31 owners
Re: Question: Tilt Steering Wobble Side-to-Side
Re: Tranny Rebuild... (long)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 14:17:02 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: 69 CUTLASS FRONT FENDERS

I have a set of front fenders from a 68 cutlass for sale.  I bought these
fenders last year at the centenial thinking they would work on a 69.  To my
suprise, the hood hinge bolt locations are different.  ...

Gib Loudon (a.k.a. "The Rocketman")
_______________

Gib,

I don't know how much you care about "correctness", but the 68 fenders
should work on your 69 if you use the notorious 68 hood hinges.  I gotta
think that hinges are easier to find than good fenders.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 14:16:56 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: 69 CUTLASS FRONT FENDERS

I have a set of front fenders from a 68 cutlass for sale.  I bought these
fenders last year at the centenial thinking they would work on a 69.  To my
suprise, the hood hinge bolt locations are different.  ...

Gib Loudon (a.k.a. "The Rocketman")
_______________

Gib,

I don't know how much you care about "correctness", but the 68 fenders
should work on your 69 if you use the notorious 68 hood hinges.  I gotta
think that hinges are easier to find than good fenders.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 14:17:40 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: 69 CUTLASS FRONT FENDERS

I have a set of front fenders from a 68 cutlass for sale.  I bought these
fenders last year at the centenial thinking they would work on a 69.  To my
suprise, the hood hinge bolt locations are different.  ...

Gib Loudon (a.k.a. "The Rocketman")
_______________

Gib,

I don't know how much you care about "correctness", but the 68 fenders
should work on your 69 if you use the notorious 68 hood hinges.  I gotta
think that hinges are easier to find than good fenders.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 14:18:13 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: 68-69 fenders

I have a set of front fenders from a 68 cutlass for sale.  I bought these
fenders last year at the centenial thinking they would work on a 69.  To my
suprise, the hood hinge bolt locations are different.  ...

Gib Loudon (a.k.a. "The Rocketman")
_______________

Gib,

I don't know how much you care about "correctness", but the 68 fenders
should work on your 69 if you use the notorious 68 hood hinges.  I gotta
think that hinges are easier to find than good fenders.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 14:23:37 EDT
From: <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 71 taillight lenses found

 olds guy has some 71 lenses for sale or trade..

770  723-9345

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 14:25:54 -0400
From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: off till 7/20

I will be temporarily off the list because of vacation and the Olds
meet till 7/20. See ya at  Springfield, IL.
       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
          Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 W30 stick ~ Red (of course)

                              <mailto:drdecal442@aol.com>
                              <mailto:mcornea@ford.com>

            Visit <http://members.aol.com/drdecal442/mcr.html>

               See us at the OCA Nationals 7/15-7/18 in IL

            OCA# 4903
       	    OPC# 14
       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 14:23:59 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: 69 CUTLASS FRONT FENDERS

Sorry for the multiple sends of this message.  My email program indicated a
repeated failure to send, but apparently they all went through.  Thank you,
Lotus Notes.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 13:36:24 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: '69 w30 and w31 owners

Brent,
H/O huh, well I guess you could say it's close.  Wow, condition my car
is in.  What condition is yours in (or his W-30)?  Your making me feel
kinda lucky here, And I thought I had a major project on my hands,
especially for a novice to auto restorations such as myself, considering
the long range plan/goal is a concourse driver.  And to compete in the
Pure Stock Muscle Car Drags when it's done, whenever that is.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

>----------
>From: 	Brent Pinkstaff[SMTP:fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com]
>Sent: 	Friday, June 26, 1998 12:48 PM
>To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: 	RE: '69 w30 and w31 owners
>
>Chris,
>
>Close. I have a '68 H/O sport coupe. Ironically another list member and
>I were dicussing the fact that it would be nice if the H/O (or his w-30
>for that matter) was in the condition that your w-31 is in. It's quite
>the project. Mr. Hankey is my daily driver.
>
>Brent Pinkstaff
>'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)
>
>
>> I'm guessing you've got a
>>68 W-30.  How about some details.
>>
>>Chris Smetana
>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 14:48:08 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Sport wheel horn button

Joe
       everything you mentioned below is the was it is now. the turnsignal
cancelation cam is in the 10:00 position. the scribe mark on the end of the
steering shaft is pointing upwards. but the button will still only snap on
upside down. any other ideas as to why it wont snap on?????
thanks..........all the info is greatly appreciated.
Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible
________________

Wow.  All I can think of is to echo what someone else wrote; perhaps the
rocket emblem in the horn button is upside down.  You can remove it from
the vinyl rim (carefully) and rotate it, but you will find that there's a
notch in the emblem which should fit over a molded tab in the rim portion.
If necessary, perhaps you can cut a matching notch 180 degrees out on the
rocket emblem and just put it back in the rim in that orientation.  Without
seeing the parts, it's hard for me to see what else could be wrong.

Joe Padavano

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 15:13:44 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Stripping chrome from plastic?

In a message dated 98-06-25 12:32:26 EDT, you write:

<< Anyone know of a way to safely strip the chrome from the plastic dash
plaque
 that goes around the instruments? I am not going to have it rechromed, but I
 need to strip it to the bare plastic.
  >>

Yes, masking tape. Works everytime and no chocolate mess!
Bruce

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 15:43:20 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: rechrome plastic

In a message dated 98-06-25 13:05:43 EDT, you write:

<< So after the chrome is off what do you guys put back on? >>

Check out this month's issue of Old Cars Magazine. There is an article that
discusses the removal and lists a place that rechromes plastic.
Bruce

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 15:41:18 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: aftermarket seat color selection...

In a message dated 98-06-25 14:24:46 EDT, you write:

<< Here's the problem, color selection.  I can get the cheaper version in
 plain white vinyl, but it won't be "pearl white >>

Greg,
I just ordered an entire interior for my car from www.USAPARTSSUPPLY.COM  and
they have a wide selection (I got pearl white myself) they come completly sewn
to fit and they enclose samples and a complete list of seat types(bucket,
bench 44/55 etc). I also ordered head rests, arm rests and extra material for
the door panels. All told, about $400. Haven't received them yet (takes about
3-4 weeks) but the samples look great. I'll let you know more when they come.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 15:54:16 -0400
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: 307 Performance

Message text written by Angel
>Just to give you an idea of what a 307 is capable, I'll repost the info
from the timeslip of a recent track visit.<

My 1987 442 ran 16.3-16.4 (at Norwalk Dragstrip) stock from the factory.
(I ran a 16.1-16.2 at Dragway 42 on an 87 degree day - can't repeat that at
Norwalk).

I increased base timing 2 degrees, and modified the prom for more WOT
timing (10 degrees).  It doesn't detonate and I am running 16.1-16.2 at
Norwalk.  Not bad for a 307, but if I ported the heads, I imangine I could
break into that elusive 15.9 area. Everything else is stock (with 60,000
miles on it).

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E & 4L60-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'96 DCM Impala SS   '87 Olds Cutlass 442  '95 Grand Prix

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 16:01:30 -0400
From: Pat McDermott <koloth@iglou.com>
Subject: Re: Temp (cooling) questions + some

- --------------16471BD8E89193D91578369A
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Thanks for the responses.
I thinned the mix a bit by draining a gal. or so and filling with water.
I figure I'll just add some antifreeze come winter. That may have helped a
little bit.
It hasn't gone over 215-220 since then. that's still too hot.
I think I have a 2 row radiator, I also have A/C. Will a 3 row fit it? And
from what?
That said it's probably the timing. I think (pretty sure) its at 8 degrees
off TDC. What should it be at?
I don't get it though. It's running good, it sounds good. How off could it
be and still run and sound good?

Thanks,
Pat McD.
69 Convertible Cutlass S
Ky.

Pat McDermott wrote:

> Hello all,
> I haven't posted here for quite some time, mainly because I hadn't been
> fooling with the Olds much.
> A little up date:
> Last summer I put an Edelbrock intake and a holley 4Bbl 650 carb. on my
> 69 Cutlass 350 (formerly a 2Bbl). Seemed to run better. Winter moved in
> before I had driven it 300 miles
> At the beginning of this spring I drove it a few times and it ran ok,
> not great but ok.
> I put in a gauge package and the temp was about 180-190 after driving
> for about 45min. between 50 & 70mph.  About 2 weeks ago I switched to
> HEI, I also flushed and filled the radiator. I used 2 gal. of
> anti-freeze, 1 bottle of the Redline WaterWetter stuff and filled it the
> rest of the way with water.
> When I took it on the road test at about
> 10 min it was at 180
> 20 min it was at 200-205
> 30 min it was at 220-225
> as it approached 230 I kicked on the heater (none to fun when it's 90)
> It backed off to 225 again and would stay there as long as I had the
> heat on , when I turned it off it would move up again.
> I have a 160 thermostat in it, I just replaced the FanClutch. The oil
> pressure is good and I didn't turn the AC on at all.
> What temp should it run at?
> What can/should I do?
> Any help, as always will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Pat McD
> 69 Convertible Cutlass S
> Ky.



- --------------16471BD8E89193D91578369A
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML>
Thanks for the responses.
<BR>I thinned the mix a bit by draining a gal. or so and filling with water.
<BR>I figure I'll just add some antifreeze come winter. That may have helped
a little bit.
<BR>It hasn't gone over 215-220 since then. that's still too hot.
<BR>I think I have a 2 row radiator, I also have A/C. Will a 3 row fit
it? And from what?
<BR>That said it's probably the timing. I <I>think</I> (pretty sure) its
at 8 degrees off TDC. What should it be at?
<BR>I don't get it though. It's running good, it sounds good. How off could
it be and still run and sound good?

<P>Thanks,
<BR>Pat McD.
<BR>69 Convertible Cutlass S
<BR>Ky.

<P>Pat McDermott wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>Hello all,
<BR>I haven't posted here for quite some time, mainly because I hadn't
been
<BR>fooling with the Olds much.
<BR>A little up date:
<BR>Last summer I put an Edelbrock intake and a holley 4Bbl 650 carb. on
my
<BR>69 Cutlass 350 (formerly a 2Bbl). Seemed to run better. Winter moved
in
<BR>before I had driven it 300 miles
<BR>At the beginning of this spring I drove it a few times and it ran ok,
<BR>not great but ok.
<BR>I put in a gauge package and the temp was about 180-190 after driving
<BR>for about 45min. between 50 &amp; 70mph.&nbsp; About 2 weeks ago I
switched to
<BR>HEI, I also flushed and filled the radiator. I used 2 gal. of
<BR>anti-freeze, 1 bottle of the Redline WaterWetter stuff and filled it
the
<BR>rest of the way with water.
<BR>When I took it on the road test at about
<BR>10 min it was at 180
<BR>20 min it was at 200-205
<BR>30 min it was at 220-225
<BR>as it approached 230 I kicked on the heater (none to fun when it's
90)
<BR>It backed off to 225 again and would stay there as long as I had the
<BR>heat on , when I turned it off it would move up again.
<BR>I have a 160 thermostat in it, I just replaced the FanClutch. The oil
<BR>pressure is good and I didn't turn the AC on at all.
<BR>What temp should it run at?
<BR>What can/should I do?
<BR>Any help, as always will be greatly appreciated.

<P>Pat McD
<BR>69 Convertible Cutlass S
<BR>Ky.</BLOCKQUOTE>
&nbsp;</HTML>

- --------------16471BD8E89193D91578369A--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 16:05:04 EDT
From: <Cnvrt67@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Sport wheel horn button

Thanks to all for the help. if we figure it out i will let you guys know what
is was. Thanks.

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 15:16:44 -0600
From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@interaccess.com>
Subject: Re: Question: Tilt Steering Wobble Side-to-Side

Charley Buehner wrote:
>
<snip - made me glad I didn't try it!>
>
> Not sure why they would have needed to change the lock cylinder.  Unless they
> wanted to revoke that special "key out while running" option.
>
Hey! Mine used to do that...I always thought it was because the keys
were sooo worn down...or did it really have something to do with the
wobbly tilt column??
- --
- ---Matt
Chicago, IL

- --------------------------------------------------------
mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
- --------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 13:18:56 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Temp (cooling) questions + some

> How off could it be and still run and sound good?

A _lot_, that's how much. I had a '72 LeMans 350 that seemed to
be just fine when it was running, but cranked like a dog when I
was trying to start it. Turned out the timing was totally screwed
up, some ridiculous setting like 20 BTDC, and the cylinders
were firing way too soon on the compression stroke, fighting the
starter. Got out the timing light, twisted the distributor a bit,
tightened it down (Duh... :-) in the right spot, and after that
it simply purred. I didn't know what I'd been missing.

So don't just go by ear; get out the test equipment and measure it.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 16:22:23 EDT
From: <COUPEKING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 68-69 fenders

Gib-
Use the fenders you have, and buy '69 hood hinges. This way will allow you to
open your '68 hood fully, as the '69's do. Fit perfectly. Same fender except
for the holes for the hood hinges.

Most folks who've worked on '68's and have the forehead scars to prove it,
find the '69 hinges an upgrade.

Peter
CoupeKing

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 16:19:33 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Temp (cooling) questions + some

...I think I have a 2 row radiator, I also have A/C. Will a 3 row fit it?
And
from what?
That said it's probably the timing. I think (pretty sure) its at 8 degrees
off TDC. What should it be at?
I don't get it though. It's running good, it sounds good. How off could it
be and still run and sound good?
Thanks,
Pat McD.
____________

Pat,

A three-row radiator was optionally available for your car, as was a four
row.  The three-row should fit in exactly in place of your current, while
the four row will require modifications to the top and bottom brackets due
to the wider end tanks.  Any radiator shop should be able to order one for
you.  I've actually just ordered the largest Olds 98 radiator available for
the same year as my A-body, and was able to get it in with the
aforementioned bracket mods.

8 degrees BTDC sounds about right, though make sure your mechanical advance
is working properly.  An easy, though non-precision test is to rev the
engine to about 2500 rpm briefly while watching the timing mark with a
timing light.  The mark on the balancer should smoothly move towards more
advance.

My money is still on a plugged radiator core, however.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 15:22:13 -0600
From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@interaccess.com>
Subject: '86 307-9 A/C

I finally decided that it's hot enough that I wanted to see if I could
figure out why my '86 442 didn't have A/C.  The first problem turned out
to be a bad connection at the clutch...oops...seemed pretty simple and I
felt pretty stupid... until I watched the compressor for a minute or
two.  When the A/C is first switched on, the compressor runs about 20-30
seconds and kicks off...the air in the car starts to cool...but the next
time the compressor starts up it only runs about 5-10 seconds...air is
still relatively cool...after that, all I will get are short bursts from
the compressor--1-2 seconds...literally pop on pop off---or nothing at
all even though the air in the car is warm.  So I checked out the A/C
compressor control relay...all seemed well there...and even when I
remove the relay and just jumper the B and D connectors (which should
cause the compressor to run constantly) but it still would kick on and
off.  So that leaves the Pressure cut-out switch.  So I pulled  that
connector and measrued the switch resistance while I jumpered the
connector to run the compressor.  The resistance started at 0.0 and then
fluttered all over the place but never went to infinite resistance that
would indicate the switch's pressure point had been hit.  Anyone got any
other ideas on how to check this one out??  The only thing I really
haven't looked at is the WOT switch, but I assume that it is ok since
the compressor performs its same strange cycling even with the
Compressor Relay jumpered.

Thanks!
- --
- ---Matt
Chicago, IL

- --------------------------------------------------------
mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
- --------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 15:30:11 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: 68-69 fenders

The reason the 69s hood open fully is because that tongue which fits
between the grills when closed hangs down and you also crack your head
on it.  Done it several times myself and it smarts.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

>----------
>From: 	COUPEKING@AOL.COM[SMTP:COUPEKING@AOL.COM]
>Sent: 	Friday, June 26, 1998 3:22 PM
>To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: 	Re: 68-69 fenders
>
>Gib-
>Use the fenders you have, and buy '69 hood hinges. This way will allow you to
>open your '68 hood fully, as the '69's do. Fit perfectly. Same fender except
>for the holes for the hood hinges.
>
>Most folks who've worked on '68's and have the forehead scars to prove it,
>find the '69 hinges an upgrade.
>
>Peter
>CoupeKing
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 16:53:14 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: '86 307-9 A/C

Matt:

This may seem like a real dumb question but is the system fully charged
with freon?

Mark
75 Delta 88 Conv

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 17:21:55 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Temp (cooling) questions + some

On Fri, 26 Jun 1998, Pat McDermott wrote:

> Thanks for the responses.
> I thinned the mix a bit by draining a gal. or so and filling with water.
> I figure I'll just add some antifreeze come winter. That may have helped a
> little bit.
> It hasn't gone over 215-220 since then. that's still too hot.

Geez, I dunno... I think that's pretty close to normal, isn't it?

> I think I have a 2 row radiator, I also have A/C. Will a 3 row fit it? And
> from what?

You can get your existing rad converted to 3 row by a rad shop. They have
bulk core material they can attach to your existing tanks.

> That said it's probably the timing. I think (pretty sure) its at 8 degrees
> off TDC. What should it be at?
> I don't get it though. It's running good, it sounds good. How off could it
> be and still run and sound good?

My Cutlass runs pretty warm too, always has. Same with my buddy's 455.
Doesn't seem to bother them.

Make sure your fan clutch is working OK. I assume you have a shroud in
place with side seals, and that the rad isn't plugged either internally
(with corrosion) or externally (bugs, crud, etc.) Ever since I heard the
story here about the rebuilt water pump with the impeller unattached to
the shaft (as I recall it fell on the owner's foot when he pulled the pump
to check it) I'm always suspicious of them. Olds water pumps always seem
to be subject to failure fairly often for some reason.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 17:00:44 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Braking problems

Not long ago, someone started a thread about some braking problems
they encountered after replacing the brakes on the 85-87 (?) Cutlass
Supreme. Well, I am experiencing some strange side effects after
a four wheel brake job on my '86 Supreme. When I hit the brakes,
especially from a high speed stop, such as slowing coming off an
interstate ramp, the brakes feel as though it's a rotor warped with
the pedal pulsing up and down. I replaced both front rotors so I know
that warpage is not a problem. Also, the right rear wheel tends to
grab and lock up when braking in gravel and on hard pavement  when
braking, it tends to throw up up against the dash if you don't apply
pressure on the pedal just right.!!  Does anyone have any insight on
what to do to fix this problem ??  I've had it back to the garage
that performed the work and they can find nothing wrong..!! I'm
stumped..!!   PLEASE RESPOND VIA PRIVATE E-MAIL...!!!

Mike              mailto:krzy4evr@usit.net

'86 Supreme
'71Monte
'86 442 (Newest member of the family)





 "The best way to predict the future is to create it...."

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 17:01:18 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: '86 Salon/grille

I need some help with my '86 Salon. When I bought it, the headlight trim
pieces were cracked, so I bought some from a Supreme. When I installed them, I
realized that the ones originally on the car were painted black. I of course,
like an idiot, threw them away without checking to see HOW they were
blackened. The grille is chrome on the outside edges, but the inner vertical
pieces are black. Do I remember correctly that the headlight trim pieces were
also black on the inside, with the outer edges the only chrome showing? And
are these even the correct grille colors? Thanks, Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 17:14:06 -0400
From: dave <dave70ss@ici.net>
Subject: Re: 71 taillight lenses

Wagner, John wrote:
>
> I have both '70 and '71 lenses. what do you need exactly ?
>
> These are used and will be VERY reasonable.
>
> I'm in Ohio
>
> John
I need the 71 tail light lenses
My car is a 71 but right now it has 72 lenses in it.
let me know how much
very reasonable is what i am looking for
I dont have a show car - just a decent cruiser
thanks dave

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 17:37:38 -0400
From: "Gib Loudon" <cutlass@mill.tds.net>
Subject: Re: 68-69 fenders

Peter...
The problem is, that I have  a 69 car, and a set of 68 fenders.......not the
other way around.

Gib.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 17:43:11 EDT
From: <MFATZII@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Officers of the law question

who cares how the cops feel....it's only illegal if you get caught......

2 cents worth

Ryan

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 18:05:29 EDT
From: <COUPEKING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 68-69 fenders

Gib-
It'll still work. Look closely at how the holes line up for the hood hinges on
the '68 fenders; there are holes, but no threads for the '69 hinges.

Look at your old '69 fenders. Notice that if you trim out the hinge support of
the old fenders and fit them behind the open holes of the '68 fender,
everything lines up perfectly.

Tack weld here, tack there and voila! Your '68 fender will fit your '69 hinges
and car.

As Joe P says, this is a LOT easier than finding new fenders.

ps

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 18:05:47 -0400
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Calibrating a Rally Pack Tach

Does
>anyone know what's involved and whether this can be done by a non-expert?
>If you had a known accurate tach to check engine speed with and there was
>an adjusting screw somewhere on the Tic-Toc I can't see why not, but if
>you have to play with resistors or whatever I can see why you might want
>to send it out. Anyone know? >Greg Beaulieu>



Hi Greg,

You'll find info on how to do this in the FAQ files at 442.com.  It's quite
easy though and I have done it to mine as follows:

take the tick toc out of the dash and hook up a wire to ground the case of
the tach so you don't have a "shocking" experience!  Then, there should be a
silver round sticker on the back-side of the case.  peel this back enough to
reveal the calibration hole.  have a small screwdriver ready.

Then....double and triple check your ground to the case, (I actually wear
rubber gloves just in case.  I don't mind the shock actually, but I couldn't
bear to drop my tach!).

Hook up an outside tach meter to judge your calibration.

start the engine and compare the two readings, then adjust with careful,
small turns until necessary.  One guy I talked to said he adjusts his at
least once a year, because I guess those ol' stock tachs don't hold
calibration very well.

Hope this helps.

=====================================================
RC Hellebuyck  -  1971 4-4-2 covt.  -  OCA Member #30213
See my car and 44 other Olds' at:
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 15:17:39 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Officers of the law question

Johnson, Sam wrote:

> Are there any Police Officers out there who dragrace?  If you do, do you do
> this on the street on at the track?  Also how do you fill about us who
> dragrace on the street?
>
> Just Curious
>
> ===========================
> Sam E. Johnson, JR.
> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
> 1971 Cutlass S 455
> Westside! Chitown IL
> ===========================

Sam,
Street racing is NOT  drag racing!
Sorry, Just a peeve of mine.
- --
Greg Rollin.  NHRA Super/Pro ET C674

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 16:20:12 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: UNSUBSCRIBE OLDSMOBILE

UNSUBSCRIBE OLDSMOBILE

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 18:47:42 EDT
From: <GT5726@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 425 Timing

My Chilton Manual says that ALL '66 V8 Oldsmobiles have a factory setting of
71/2btdc.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 18:49:07 -0400
From: "Robert Handren" <rhandren@gate.net>
Subject: Re: 'C' Heads

<<<From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: 'C' Heads

I was looking through the FAQ in regards to my '69 'C' heads I just sold
and noticed references to "possible" W-30 numbers for the '67 'C' head 400
motors - my question is, is there any way to tell if my '67 442 originating
400 CID was out of a W-30 car?  And if it was, are there any internal motor
differences between the standard 442 motor & the W-30?  I think I should
already know this, but I'm not sure:-)

Joe P?  >>>

Lisa:

I was told by _the_ early W-30 guru Curt Andersen (check out the OCA's JWO
advisor's list for his number, I have 612-398-3079 but that's old), that all
67 W-30 heads came with the holes for the AIR system drilled, tapped and
plugged. So look for the plugs. _Might_ indicate a W-30 set. 'Course all CA
heads came with AIR so not much of a clue.

Otherwise I know of no ID for them. But Curt knows more about those great
66-67 beasts than anyone else I've been able to find. He can tell you such
minutia as what font the IBM type writers used on the window stickers, the
first trunk mounted battery cables were made used single "O" welding cable,
etc.  He still talks to the Olds engineers that designed the W-30 systems,
led by Dale Smith. I would suggest calling him with your questions.

Other 67 W-30 ID's are all built in Lansing, third week of March, factory
punched radiator support (as opposed to drilled or cut out), real red fender
liners (first W-30's to get 'em and not being repopped as far as I know).

Bob Handren

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 20:26:56 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: '49-'54 dual quad intake on ebay

For any of the 1949 through '54 Oldsmobile 303, or 324 OHV V8 engines.
This is an aluminum dual four
     "Edmunds" brand intake manifold made to use the early WCFB style
Carter or small square bolt pattern
     Rochester four barrel carburetors.


For more info, follow the link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=18543604


- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 20:31:39 -0400
From: Jim & Jo Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 425 Timing

Josh

        The factory service manual says that the 425 low compression 2 bbls
are to be set at 7.5 degrees, the high compression 2 bbl is 5 degrees, and
the 4 bbl is 7.5 degrees. AS for the timing tab the lowest slot is 0 degrees
the next in the middle is 5 degrees and the top on is 10 degrees.

Jim Chermack

At 09:40 AM 6/26/1998 -0400, you wrote:
>     Hey gang,
>
>     Can anyone tell me the correct timing for the 66 425ci motor?
>
>     Also when I look at the timing tab at the balancer it is just three
>     little marks.  No numbers.  Can anyone tell me what the marks mean and
>     which is 0 degrees?
>
>     Thanx
>     Josh
>     67 Cutlass
>     425 / TH400
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 20:32:30 -0400
From: Jim & Jo Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: alternators

Chris

        The std one is 37 amps, optional with HD cooling should be 55 amps.

Jim Chermack

At 08:10 AM 6/26/1998 -0500, you wrote:
>I'm curious as to which alternator I should be using in my car.  It is
>an original 69 350 W-31 w/ HD cooling and p/s.  And I have currently
>swapped in a 72 455.  What should the amp rating of an original alt be
>and what alt can I use with this setup?  I've seen several different
>ratings (42amp, 55amp, 30something amp, and others) and I'm curious as
>which I can use and what is considered correct?  Oh, and it's got the
>voltage regulator on the firewall, in case that makes a difference in
>the ratings.
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Chris Smetana
>Terre Haute, IN
>work: csmetana@dowagro.com
>
>1969 W-31
>1969 4-4-2 parts car
>plus others
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 20:45:41 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: 1975 442

What color is the interior?

DYeager535@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hey all,
>       If anybody is interested, a wrecking yard here just picked up a '75 
442.
> I'm not too familiar with them, but it has the swivel buckets in it, and a
> 455, seemingly complete. I live in the Seattle area. Dorian

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
         777777 33333
            77      33
Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
          77        33
         77     33333
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 20:43:20 -0400
From: "deirdre. reilly" <102724.635@compuserve.com>
Subject: re:  307 VIN 9

Tom Martin wrote:

"Manifolds are cast iron on "9", Tubular Steel in the "G" Body "Y" 307."

That's not entirely true.  I had the cast iron "logs" on my '85 "Y" 307
with 7a heads.  I also pulled a set of cast iron manifolds off an early
80's Delta 88 with a 307 Y motor, 5a heads on that one.

I wonder if their was a reason why one style was used over another?

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'83 Cutlass Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 15:26:33 -0400
From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Subject: RE: '69 w30 and w31 owners

At 01:36 PM 6/26/98 -0500, Chris Smetana wrote:
>Brent,
>H/O huh, well I guess you could say it's close.  Wow, condition my car
>is in.  What condition is yours in (or his W-30)?

As the owner of *his W-30* I can say that you have much less time and money
between what your car is now and a restified ride. My W-30 needs every
piece of exterior sheet metal repaired or replaced. Now, you might imagine
a car the has a few dings and through rust, but that is a very
complimentary image. I'd put pictures up on the web, but images that ugly
would be a serious waste of bandwidth. I'd also run the risk of giving
Chris Sparks nightmares. ;>

Ray
'70 Cutlass Conv.
'70 442 Conv. (W-30 4 Speed)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 20:02:53 -0600
From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@interaccess.com>
Subject: Re: '86 307-9 A/C

Mark Hahn wrote:
>
> Matt:
>
> This may seem like a real dumb question but is the system fully charged
> with freon?
>
> Mark
> 75 Delta 88 Conv
I;ve got a dumber answer...I think so...I had the seals on the hoses
replaced two years ago and a full charge added then.  I dread taking it
anywhere because you KNOW that they will say it needs to be recharged so
I am just taking it on faith..but I also thought there was somehting
that wouldn't allow the compressor to engage if there wasn't enough of a
charge to cool...
- --
- ---Matt
Chicago, IL

- --------------------------------------------------------
mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
- --------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 18:11:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: John M <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: '86 307-9 A/C

- ---Matthew Mayer <mmayer@interaccess.com> wrote:
>
> Mark Hahn wrote:
> >
> > Matt:
> >
> > This may seem like a real dumb question but is the system fully
charged
> > with freon?
> >
> > Mark
> > 75 Delta 88 Conv
> I;ve got a dumber answer...I think so...I had the seals on the hoses
> replaced two years ago and a full charge added then.  I dread taking
it
> anywhere because you KNOW that they will say it needs to be
recharged so
> I am just taking it on faith..but I also thought there was somehting
> that wouldn't allow the compressor to engage if there wasn't enough
of a
> charge to cool...
> --
> ---Matt
> Chicago, IL
>
> --------------------------------------------------------
> mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
> --------------------------------------------------------
> Hey,has anyone ever heard of a/c stopleak?It does work for MINOR
problems such as a small leak.Option 2 is convert that sucker to 134A,
Did it to 2 of my cars,New compressor,dryer,fittings,changeover,and
refrigerant---Total cost about $200.Gives me 34 degree air at the vent.
John

==
mailto:super442@yahoo.com
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73 http://www.442.com/mcjunkin.html
1984 Cutlass-----Moonroof--307
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 21:36:40 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 1975 442

In a message dated 98-06-26 20:40:57 EDT, you write:

<< What color is the interior? >>
Black, if I remember correctly..at least the seats were. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 22:23:35 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: '57, '42 Manuals Found

I was in a used bookstore the other day and came across these 2 manuals
on the shelves. If anyone is interested I will act on your behalf, just
drop me a note privately.

Both of these are GM publications and in nice condition:

1957 Olds Service Manual, $40 Canadian

1942 Olds Maintenance Manual, $30 Cdn.

The first is a typical GM service manual; the second is a smaller
(approx 6x8 in.) size I've not seen before.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 21:40:50 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@viperlink.net>
Subject: Re: Officers of the law question

Johnson, Sam wrote:
>
> Are there any Police Officers out there who dragrace?  If you do, do you do
> this on the street on at the track?  Also how do you fill about us who
> dragrace on the street?

I got two good friends that are Cops, that race on the weekends...  <G>
One actually plays with my money and runs the cop car...  Not too shabby
considering they are playing with 98 Crown Vics...  And I have given him
a hard time about it...  Anyways.

They are both saying the same.  They LOVE to play on the track, but
won't try it even remotely on the street...  Having egged them on a
light, I know...  Blue lights behind me (altough I wasn't racing) and
being pulled over to be told that Racing is for the track...

Both have told me, there's a time and a place for racing, pay the $10,
put the car on the track, and have a ball.  Take the car on the street
get caught, and lightest, get a speeding ticket, worst, be dead.

- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 21:50:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Padnos is so cool

Today I found a nice realtively unmolested 1968 or 69 350-2V, starter, dist'r,
#5 heads, Nodular crank. Nearby, a single G head & pre-EGR big block 4V intake.
Then, out back... a C head, a 7a head, and even a #3 head, which I left there.

Never did find that Toro block w/ the main caps or the F [not Fa] block sans
z-bar support hole that I saw there before.

Oh, and there was a really funky intake- big block maybe or not? Very low-rise,
very open plenum, with EGR, but.... the EGR passage was BEHIND the carb! Weird,
what does this go to? Some sort of '75-6 Toro I am guessing... No water passage
at the front?? Can't recall for sure, but the whole thing was very, very smooth
on top. And sorta sunken. I best grab it next visit.

Anyone ever seen one of these, know what it's for?
Anyone need a core nodular-crank 350 with #5 heads? Cheap, if you come get?
- --
Chris Witt  *the* Rocket Scientist
1968 442 convertible, originally & to be again W30, et. al
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 18:53:12 -0700
From: "John Young" <realtorjohn@sprynet.com>
Subject: 69 442 paint

Does anyone have the specs for the painted hood stripes (or templates) for
a 69 442?
I'm trying to put one back together. I also need the 69 OAI scoops (which
by the way are totally different from the 68's someone tried to sell me.
Thanks in advance, guys! oops,
I almost forgot, need a console or at least prndsl plastic for the auto
console. Car is an automatic.
realtorjohn@sprynet.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 19:28:00 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Oxygen sensor

Yes, Cutlass HARD!  With the V8 at least, the sucker's down in the passenger
side of the engine, just after where the x-over pipe meets the
passenger-side exhaust manifold.  When the engine is hot, EVERYTHING down
there is hot, but Andy's right.  It's easier to break loose when
everything's still warm.

Jason Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock/

- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew C. Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, June 25, 1998 12:25 PM
Subject: Re: Oxygen sensor

>(Cutlass: Hard; SSEi: Easy. :-)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 21:57:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Another Toro f/sale

Same guy has another Toronado, a 1968 this time

Body better shape than the '66- original paint, only tiny holes, fender heel.
Tile/tele
No motor. :-(
Brown with bk v.top, bk 1/2 cloth interior.
front rocket missing.
One axle stripped its splines- I have such parts to repair.

Car is in Iron Mountain, MI, WAY, WAY up North.

Cost is cheap at $400, or $500 delivered to Lansing.

This is all I know about it.  Call me if you need it I guess...

Can someone fwd this to the Tor list please?
- --
Chris Witt  *the* Rocket Scientist
1968 442 convertible, originally & to be again W30, et. al
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517.882.9747

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 22:07:53 -0400
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: A/C Diagnosis

A penny (not really) for your thoughts on the following A/C glitch on my '71
Cutlass 350:

Replaced compressor and rcvr/drier a few years back and had it charged.
Tech who did the job checked it out, and the discharge temp was not as low
as expected, but he said it was a slipping belt.  I replaced the belt, which
still squealed occasionally though it was real tight.  I'm missing the steel
strut between the compressor and water pump, so I chalked it up to that.

Used it for a while like that, though it really dragged down the engine and
made it run hot.  Cooled some, but never like a new car...

Then, one winter nite my wife was driving it and using the defrost.  The
compressor locked and smoked the belt- I'm guessing the thing froze up.  I
disconnected the clutch wires and decided to give up on A/C- heck it's a
convertible, after all.

But now, I'm living in VA and whoa it's hot.  Checked at the valve and I
still have a charge.  Hooked up the clutch and hey, it turns!  Not much in
the way of cold at the evaporator.  What would you guys recommend for
getting back to working right?  Thanks!

Bob, Covington, VA
robertan@cfw.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 22:09:03 EDT
From: <COUPEKING@aol.com>
Subject: '68/9 OAI scoops

All this talk about those ram air scoops, and I'm looking for a set for a '69
vintage drag car project. Where can I get some? Don't need pricey originals,
just good functional units. Either year style OK.

Any leads?

What price should I expect to pay?

TIA
Peter

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 20:24:43 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Officers of the law question

> Are there any Police Officers out there who dragrace?  If you do, do you do
> this on the street on at the track?  Also how do you fill about us who
> dragrace on the street?

Yes, do tell!  I've often wonderred that, too.  Just how does the law feel 
about
those of us--  umm, I mean ~them~ who race on the street ;)

Personally, my take on it is that it's dangerous in that you never know when
kids will run out in the street, and that at higher speeds the reaction time is
greatly reduced.  However, at 11 PM and later, when the majority of street 
races
just happen to occur (so I've ~heard~;) the kid factor is drastically reduced.
Brake lights and nearby traffic is easier to spot (providing they actually use
their lights) and traffic is generally more intelligent, ya know, the Sunday
drivers of 10mph, never use signals, unless they're turning the ~other~ way,
left lane turning right, etc...  Have to watch for drunks, but they usually
aren't that bad until 1 AM or so.  Some towns have streets that are great for
racing.  Havre, for instance, has a perfect segment of 4 lane where parking is
usually low and lanes are wide.  Often onlookers in a nearby parking lot, but
they're usually quite controlled...  Most times the only involvment is a
cheering squad (heh heh!) We--ahem, ~they~ usually gave them a good show...
Sidney, on the other hand, is lousy for racing.  We've got four lanes, but
they're pretty narrow and sloped.  With parking just inches away.  ~And~ highly
crowned/sloped roads.  Any error at all, and you're into parked cars.  Not
good.  1/2 mile from town it clears up greatly, even has a stop light to start
from.  But by the time anyone gets there, the ~other~ guy has usually turned
off/chickenned out, or thought he already had his show when no one would
challenge due to traffic.  No biggie though, the Havre cars were much more
entertaining to race-- Oops, I meant to say "watch" race...  ;)


The Oldsmobile Magnet -- Charley Buehner@Sidney Montana
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com or mailto:charley@rocketship.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner  -- Oldsmagnet Homepage
OldsList Vital Info: http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 22:07:47 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: '86 Salon/grille

Yep, this is correct.  Actually, the whole bezel is chrome "colored", but
the inside surfaces are just shot with black spray paint.  I reshot mine a
year or so ago with the only black paint I had around, flat back high-temp
grill (barbecue) paint.  It really looks great and restores the original
look that the usually faded black paint doesn't have.  If you do find
regular Supreme bezels, just tape all front edges off (top, bottom, sides,
and middle bar) and shoot the rest with black paint.  Give 'er a few coats
if you really like to scrub when you wash the car.  :-)

Jason Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock/

- -----Original Message-----
From: DYeager535@AOL.COM <DYeager535@AOL.COM>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, June 26, 1998 5:04 PM
Subject: '86 Salon/grille


>I need some help with my '86 Salon. When I bought it, the headlight trim
>pieces were cracked, so I bought some from a Supreme. When I installed
them, I
>realized that the ones originally on the car were painted black. I of
course,
>like an idiot, threw them away without checking to see HOW they were
>blackened. The grille is chrome on the outside edges, but the inner
vertical
>pieces are black. Do I remember correctly that the headlight trim pieces
were
>also black on the inside, with the outer edges the only chrome showing? And
>are these even the correct grille colors? Thanks, Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 22:13:40 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: museum visit & storm tips.

Are you sure, Charley?  Most of the surge protectors I've seen are merely
outlets behind circuit breakers.  If the voltage is too high (like with a
direct lightning strike) the circuit breaker trips and you just have to
reset it.  If you're good, everything's on an UPS, but even the cheapest
surge protectors have the circuit breaker thingies.

Olds content:  all my Oldsmobile e-mail and pics are behind one of these
UPS/surge protectors, so I trust them to some degree at least...

Jason Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock/

- -----Original Message-----
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, June 25, 1998 11:05 PM
Subject: Re: museum visit & storm tips.


>If you take a direct hit, you're screwed.  Period.
>
>The Oldsmobile Magnet -- Charley Buehner@Sidney Montana
>mailto:buehner@lyrea.com or mailto:charley@rocketship.com
>http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner  -- Oldsmagnet Homepage
>OldsList Vital Info: http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 22:36:29 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Tranny Rebuild... (long)

Well, looks like ~this~ TH-200-C has conked out.  The symptom is a VERY
SEVERE slip when in reverse.  It's so severe, I can't back straight up a
hill.  OTOH, the forward gears are as good as they've ever been.  I went to
get the VA emissions test a few Saturdays ago and the #$*!@ state has
implemented this "dyno" test where they put your car up on a dyno and
actually drive it at differing speeds to get more "real world" results.  The
guy at the Shell station went to back the car up and noticed the obvious
slip.  <deep redneck voice> "Well, uh, sir, I can't run this car, uh,
because I don't, uh, want to burn out your, uh, drive gears."  I couldn't
sign a waver or ~anything~... Shell just WASN'T going to run my car.

So, I went over to the local transmission shop here in Herndon, VA, aptly
named "Herndon Transmission" and told the mech. what it was doing.  He asked
what the symptoms were and I told him and he said that he probably doesn't
have to drive the car very long to diagnose it.  He then asked me if I knew
what kind of transmission I have.  I told him I had the turbo-hydramatic 200
and he goes "Ahh, the Metric.  Yep, I won't have to drive this car long at
all!"  By this time, I knew the time had come for another 200 to bite the
dust, but he said that most of them will last till 100k miles (I have 89k on
mine).  Either way, he wants $700 for a complete overhaul.  I asked how much
a TH-350-C swap would be and he said $300--at least.  He'd probably have to
change the driveshaft length and he wasn't sure off hand about the console
shifter linkage or any TV-type cable.  So, if it were $300 (at the minimum),
I'd have to find a complete TH-350-C that I was completely satisfied with
(knowing that it was rebuilt) for $400 just to break even.  To make it more
frustrating, this is my only car and my registration expires on 1 July, so I
don't have a lot of time in the first place (yes, completely my fault).
BTW, just for curiosity's sake, how much would a freshly-built TH-350-C
cost?  I wouldn't knowingly put a "used" one in there, I'd make sure sure it
was rebuilt...therefore, I don't know if I could even break even.  Besides,
the shop owner said that it'll last another 100k after the overhaul, and in
a few years (only 30k or 40k worth), I'll be picking up my parents Crown
Victoria that I'll use as a daily driver, so I'm not hugely concerned about
the 200k mile mark.  By THEN, I'll have time and money to invest in a
TH-350-C...

I know it's not the most economical fix, but I've really ironed out the
quirks in the car after owning it for 3 years now and it's nearly perfect
(for how I drive it).  I've found that "messing" with car configurations can
sometimes dork stuff up, so I don't really want to take any chances and come
out with a bum car.

Everyone asks me if the car's even worth 1000 bucks.  First of all, it IS.
:-)  And secondly, I don't care what some bluebook says a Cutlass sold for
the 1984 model year ~should~ be worth.  It's what MY car is worth to ME.
AND, I have a rather large pot of money built up that was GOING TO GO TO AN
EXHAUST SYSTEM, so I guess this is the best time for something like this to
happen.

Such is life I guess...

Comments, criticisms, flames?  ;-)

Jason Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 22:16:56 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Re:85 Cutlass?

- -----Original Message-----
From: Angel Castrodad <angleki@prtc.net>
To: Oldsmobile list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, June 26, 1998 9:47 AM
Subject: Re:85 Cutlass?

>My car is a "STOCK" '86 442 with the "9"(HYD) 307, TH-350 trans, and 3.73

Angel, your car is "STOCK"?  That TH-350 tranny isn't stock in an 86 442.
It should have the TH-200-4R (overdrive).

>Did I mention that the trans is slipping a bit?

Heh, do ~I~ have a story about that...

Jason Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 17:37:41 -0700
From: Mr Ada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: '69 w30 and w31 owners

Ray Moriarty wrote:

> would be a serious waste of bandwidth. I'd also run the risk of giving
> Chris Sparks nightmares. ;>

Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeek!  Just kidding! :-)

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 20:54:41 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Question: Tilt Steering Wobble Side-to-Side

> Hey! Mine used to do that...I always thought it was because the keys
> were sooo worn down...or did it really have something to do with the
> wobbly tilt column??

No, I don't think there can be any relation between the two.  I still don't 
know
why they wanted to replace that lock cylinder.

The Oldsmobile Magnet -- Charley Buehner@Sidney Montana
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com or mailto:charley@rocketship.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner  -- Oldsmagnet Homepage
OldsList Vital Info: http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 22:58:35 -0400
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Re: Tranny Rebuild... (long)

Recommend you get out of the TH200.  Had one in my 84 Cutlass- needed
complete rebuild 1200 miles out of the showroom (this one was on Generous
Motors).  At 30k started slipping bad in reverse.  Drove it like this for
about 40k more, always choosing parking spots carefully.

Had my local shop do the TH350 swap, and no more probs until I sold it with
135k on the clock.  Back in '92, the conversion and rebuilt trans only cost
$500.  It shifted a bit firmer, but everything fit and functioned well.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jason Adcock <rocketolds@vt.edu>
To: Oldsmobile E-Mail List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, June 26, 1998 10:35 PM
Subject: Tranny Rebuild... (long)


>Well, looks like ~this~ TH-200-C has conked out.  The symptom is a VERY
>SEVERE slip when in reverse.  It's so severe, I can't back straight up a
>hill.  OTOH, the forward gears are as good as they've ever been.  I went to
>get the VA emissions test a few Saturdays ago and the #$*!@ state has
>implemented this "dyno" test where they put your car up on a dyno and
>actually drive it at differing speeds to get more "real world" results.
The
>guy at the Shell station went to back the car up and noticed the obvious
>slip.  <deep redneck voice> "Well, uh, sir, I can't run this car, uh,
>because I don't, uh, want to burn out your, uh, drive gears."  I couldn't
>sign a waver or ~anything~... Shell just WASN'T going to run my car.
>
>So, I went over to the local transmission shop here in Herndon, VA, aptly
>named "Herndon Transmission" and told the mech. what it was doing.  He
asked
>what the symptoms were and I told him and he said that he probably doesn't
>have to drive the car very long to diagnose it.  He then asked me if I knew
>what kind of transmission I have.  I told him I had the turbo-hydramatic
200
>and he goes "Ahh, the Metric.  Yep, I won't have to drive this car long at
>all!"  By this time, I knew the time had come for another 200 to bite the
>dust, but he said that most of them will last till 100k miles (I have 89k
on
>mine).  Either way, he wants $700 for a complete overhaul.  I asked how
much
>a TH-350-C swap would be and he said $300--at least.  He'd probably have to
>change the driveshaft length and he wasn't sure off hand about the console
>shifter linkage or any TV-type cable.  So, if it were $300 (at the
minimum),
>I'd have to find a complete TH-350-C that I was completely satisfied with
>(knowing that it was rebuilt) for $400 just to break even.  To make it more
>frustrating, this is my only car and my registration expires on 1 July, so
I
>don't have a lot of time in the first place (yes, completely my fault).
>BTW, just for curiosity's sake, how much would a freshly-built TH-350-C
>cost?  I wouldn't knowingly put a "used" one in there, I'd make sure sure
it
>was rebuilt...therefore, I don't know if I could even break even.  Besides,
>the shop owner said that it'll last another 100k after the overhaul, and in
>a few years (only 30k or 40k worth), I'll be picking up my parents Crown
>Victoria that I'll use as a daily driver, so I'm not hugely concerned about
>the 200k mile mark.  By THEN, I'll have time and money to invest in a
>TH-350-C...
>
>I know it's not the most economical fix, but I've really ironed out the
>quirks in the car after owning it for 3 years now and it's nearly perfect
>(for how I drive it).  I've found that "messing" with car configurations
can
>sometimes dork stuff up, so I don't really want to take any chances and
come
>out with a bum car.
>
>Everyone asks me if the car's even worth 1000 bucks.  First of all, it IS.
>:-)  And secondly, I don't care what some bluebook says a Cutlass sold for
>the 1984 model year ~should~ be worth.  It's what MY car is worth to ME.
>AND, I have a rather large pot of money built up that was GOING TO GO TO AN
>EXHAUST SYSTEM, so I guess this is the best time for something like this to
>happen.
>
>Such is life I guess...
>
>Comments, criticisms, flames?  ;-)
>
>Jason Adcock
>mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
>http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock/
>
>
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1332
*********************************
