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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1331


oldsmobile-digest        Friday, June 26 1998        Volume 01 : Number 1331



Re: 350 X-man Interchange
Re: folks at the swap meet
'C' Heads
67, 70-72 Parts for Sale
Officers of the law question
RE: Brake Shoes: which is which
RE: 71 taillight lenses
Re: KREEN
85 Cutlass?
RE: Backfires?
alternators
re:  307 VIN 9
electric choke hookup
Re: electric choke hookup
RE: electric choke hookup
425 Timing
Re:85 Cutlass?
RE: electric choke hookup
RE: electric choke hookup
Re: 85 Cutlass
RE: electric choke hookup
RE: electric choke hookup
RE: Brake Shoes: which is which
Re: KREEN
RE: Brake Shoes: which is which
Re: rechrome plastic
RE: '69 w30 and w31 owners
RE: electric choke hookup
RE: electric choke hookup
Re: Temp (cooling) questions
Parts available
Re: rechrome plastic
RE: '69 w30 and w31 owners
'70 Delta 88 parts
Cars for Sale
Re: 70 455 intake
RE: '69 w30 and w31 owners
Re: alternators
FOR SALE:  69 CUTLASS FRONT FENDERS
alt. mounting bracket, Oh Oh
RE: '69 w30 and w31 owners
Re: Oxygen sensor
RE: '69 w30 and w31 owners
Re: FOR SALE:  69 CUTLASS FRONT FENDERS
Olds Radios
RE: '69 w30 and w31 owners
Re: Pressure switch questions

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 06:09:32 -0400
From: Jim & Jo Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 350 X-man Interchange

Greg

        They should interchange. There could be a difference in the flange
area. The earlier one won't require an exhaust donut to seal it.

Jim C..

At 06:06 PM 6/25/1998 -0300, you wrote:
>
>Discovered today I have a broken passenger side exhaust manifold on my 78
>Delta with a 350. I have the x-mans from the '72 350 parts car sitting
>around. Are they are direct interchange? I think so but if anyone has a
>parts book or direct experience I'd appreciate a note back. If not, can
>anyone tell me what models would work? Thanks!
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 06:46:02 -0400
From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: Re: folks at the swap meet

Chris Brown Witt wrote:
>
>  I plan on going to the Olds Homcomming in Lansing Saturday June 20th.
>  I thought that a good place to meet up with Other members of the list would
> be at Mark Cornea's Restoration Decal booth at 12:00.  He will have the 
White
> tent with the 70 W30 by it.
> ================
> I was there all day, as luck would have it, the parking Nazi made me go where
> he says. Met up with David Brown & Karl Aune the nite before, Saw "Mr. Hell",
> Doug Harkema I believe, and saw Loris's car, though not him I guess. Kindly,
> Mr. Decal sold me an SSI wheel decal to replace the one I lost from the set I
> bought last year... speaking or Mr. Cornea... [coincidence: The for sale 66
> Toro came from brother's friend, Mark Cornea... but I digress...] his 442 is
> just SO bitchin'! So very clean, neatly executed oil pressure and water temp
> gages... right ON the engine! I only got to view it for a few minutes, was
very > busy. Truly a standard to strive for. Good job, my man! > > -- > Chris
Witt  *the* Rocket Scientist > 1968 442 convertible, originally & to be again
W30, et. al > Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu > --

	Thanks Chris! Are you going to the Olds Nationals 7/15-7/18?
       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
          Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 W30 stick ~ Red (of course)

                              <mailto:drdecal442@aol.com>
                              <mailto:mcornea@ford.com>

            Visit <http://members.aol.com/drdecal442/mcr.html>

               See us at the OCA Nationals 7/15-7/18 in IL

            OCA# 4903
       	    OPC# 14
       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 22:25:52 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: 'C' Heads

I was looking through the FAQ in regards to my '69 'C' heads I just sold
and noticed references to "possible" W-30 numbers for the '67 'C' head 400
motors - my question is, is there any way to tell if my '67 442 originating
400 CID was out of a W-30 car?  And if it was, are there any internal motor
differences between the standard 442 motor & the W-30?  I think I should
already know this, but I'm not sure:-)

Joe P?



Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '72 Vista Cruiser
'80 GMC 1/2 ton (the youngster)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 22:18:15 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: 67, 70-72 Parts for Sale

70-72 stuff
>1. 70 Cutlass Supreme Hood with Center chrome strip. (small dent where the
>center grill tongue bolts)
>2. 72 Cutlass Supreme Hood with chrome grill openings (No dents!!!)
>3. 70 Right Front fender. (Some rust at bottom - moderate, Calif car)
>4. 70 Left front fender. (Some rust at bottom - same as above)
>5. 70 Cutlass supreme decklid with chrome and Cutlass emblem.
>6. 70 R&L Inner fender L. baffles (This is the part that fits inside the
>fender at the front where the eyebrow
>chrome bolts through)
>7. 70 R&L Front fender eyebrow chrome...Good shape.
>8. 70 R. Front fender Cutlass emblem.
>9. 70 L. Front fender Cutlass emblem.
>10. 70 Right front fender beltline chrome. Note: No left side fender
>chrome
>11. 70 Complete set of 4 side marker running lights
>12. 70 - 2 sets of top C/S emblems R&L.
>13. 70 Left seat back chrome plate with knob and leaver. (This is the thing
>that you lift to tilt the seat up)
>14. 70 hood light.
>15. Hood T handle.

Other Parts 67-69
'67 C/S front bumper - good chrome, straight
'69 455 Toronado 4bbl intake (in case your worried about hood clearances....)
'67 Cutlass a/c unit
>1. 68 Toro headlight switch with black plastic knob and beazle.
>2. 68 Toro trunk light. outside good but has no plug. someone cut it off
>3. 69 Toro license plate light
>4. 69 Toro Oil pan
>5. 67 Delta 88 trunk light ( very nice shape, Near mint with wire clips)
>6. 67 D 88 trunk emblem, OLDSMOBILE with rocket.
>7. 67 D 88 Clock with chrome & black bucket suround.
>8. 67 D 88 Front left turn sig. lens inner & outer with Chrome trim. No
>right sorry :-(
>9. 67 D 88 R&L Delta 88 1/4 panel emblems
>10. 67 D 88 Int. sail panal lights.
>11. 67 D 88 Front door panal rockets. Ya know - the little ones.

If you are interested in any of the above, please e-mail me directly.  I
normally ship UPS but am working out the larger items shipping terms.



Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '72 Vista Cruiser
'80 GMC 1/2 ton (the youngster)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 07:12:05 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Officers of the law question

Are there any Police Officers out there who dragrace?  If you do, do you do
this on the street on at the track?  Also how do you fill about us who
dragrace on the street?

Just Curious


===========================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
Cutlass403@ameritech.net
1971 Cutlass S 455
Westside! Chitown IL
===========================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 08:41:04 -0400
From: "Wagner, John" <WagnerJo@pios.com>
Subject: RE: Brake Shoes: which is which

The brakes I've gotten for my '72 Cutlass ..one was larger than the
other, the larger shoe went in the front position as I remember..but I
also thought that was the only way it would go in for some reason.

John

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 08:46:36 -0400
From: "Wagner, John" <WagnerJo@pios.com>
Subject: RE: 71 taillight lenses

I have both '70 and '71 lenses. what do you need exactly ?

These are used and will be VERY reasonable.

I'm in Ohio

John

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 08:50:44 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: KREEN

In a message dated 98-06-24 20:59:20 EDT, you write:

<< Guaranteed not to rust, bust, collect dust, crack, chip, dent or peel.
 Got a bridge they wanna sell ya too. >>

Kinda like radiator stop leak. Always see their displays at car shows. Can
with holes dips into clear water. Leaks. Can with holes dips into water with
radiator stop leak, No leaks. Only difference is your radiator is ubder
pressure.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 07:52:27 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: 85 Cutlass?

Funny, When my Dad bought his 85 Cutlass, I said the same thing, just in
1985!!  I was hoping a misprint of 2.41.  That means you must have the
THM200C, the 3sp auto.  The OD cars came with 2.41 to 2.56.

Ratio's?  Well there are 2.14, 2.29, 2.41, 2.56, 2.73, 2.93, 3.08, 3.23
(3.23 is basically V6, high alt only, but it can be had....), and 3.42
(8.5 in, GN only) and 3.73 (8.5 in 442, 7.5/7.625 Monte SS, if you had
more power you got the 8.5......Hint Chevy?)

Mostly the THM200C and 307 "Y", you got 2.14.  You had to special order
anything else.  I guess it was default (standard) to get 2.14's.  I call
it poor man's overdrive.

Interested?  YES!  Let me know when you plan on parting with it.  I
would be interested in the whole car.  As for 307 dying?  Good luck!
They typically run 200K miles +.  LONG lasting engines.  I would like to
paint my Cutlass a different color, but need a whole interior before I
start.  Mine is light green, everything is light green.......

Wanna cheap performance boost?  Remove carb, and run a 3/8 drill bit to
clean out the EGR passages.  Mine picked up a lot of power with that,
and I started running 87 oct again.  No pinging.  The "Y" 307 likes EGR.
 Probably in the computer program to run with it, and run well.  Good
high flow air filter helps, but only if you get much in the RPM's to use
the extra airflow.  And get the Hooker 87 GN exhaust, that helped as
much as the 350 did!  It takes a little work, but if you want to look at
it, visit Tom Lentz's site at
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz/hooker_exhaust.htm

The best performance improvement?  I installed a 77 350.  GREAT boost in
power!!  I laid a 30 foot strip of rubber yesterday, I was shocked!!
Didn't dog it to do it.  Passing is a blast!  You can get to 80 in no
time!

RPM.  With 205 75 14's, at 40 you are running 1100, 55 running 1500, 80
is around 2200, at 100 around 2800, 120 comes in at 3300, 150 at 4100,
180 at 5000.  2.14's are interesting gears.......Anyone for top speed?
Charley, are you there?

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC 2.14's
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac




>Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 16:31:28 -0400 (EDT)
>From: Tom Lardner <lardner@UMDNJ.EDU>
>Subject: question
>
>my dad bought our 1985 Cutlass Salon brand new, and he still has the
>window sticker, which lists the rear as a 2.14!!!  Is that right?  It must
>be, because this car accelerates TERRIBLY around town...what other gear
?ratios were available that year?
>ALSO!
>This car is kinda on the way out, and my dad says when the motor dies,
>he's junking it.  WHo'd be interested in what parts?  It has the rally
>gauges, the console/floor shifter, grey bucket seats and interior, power
>everything.  4BBL...just curious
>Tom
	

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 09:05:34 -0400
From: "Fields, Brent (SE_ENG)" <fieldsb@valeo.sylvania.com>
Subject: RE: Backfires?

I had the same problem on my '71 350.  I would run along fine and
about every 2 or 3 minutes it would back fire.
Turned out to be a flat exhaust cam lobe.  After I replaced the cam
everything was back to normal.
Sure was confusing until I figured it out though.
Brent Fields
LS2000 Design Group Leader
ValeoSylvania
1231 A Ave North
Seymour IN, 47274
Phone (812)-524-5340		Fax (812)-524-5397
www.fieldsb@valeo.sylvania.com


- -----Original Message-----
From:	Thomas Martin [SMTP:Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com]
Sent:	Monday, June 22, 1998 11:05 AM
To:	'oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca'
Subject:	Backfires?

_SUBJECTS_

What sort of conditions cause backfires.  I know timing, but what on
a
computer controlled car will cause a under load backfire?

Mine does it when the engine is under load, say 45 mph, TCC engaged,
2.14 gears, the A/C on and engine hot (normal traffic temp).  I have
a
180 degree thermostat, but no gauges.

The engine is a 1977 350, running the stock 307 "Y" ECM and sensors.
Never any fault codes.

Just wondering.  It is not excessive, but unless I tromp on it, it is
sluggish, backfires, then I get mad and stand on it.  She is fine
then.....


Does this condition ring a bell with anyone?  What will cause any
engine
to backfire if the timing is right?

Thanks!

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 08:10:11 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: alternators

I'm curious as to which alternator I should be using in my car.  It is
an original 69 350 W-31 w/ HD cooling and p/s.  And I have currently
swapped in a 72 455.  What should the amp rating of an original alt be
and what alt can I use with this setup?  I've seen several different
ratings (42amp, 55amp, 30something amp, and others) and I'm curious as
which I can use and what is considered correct?  Oh, and it's got the
voltage regulator on the firewall, in case that makes a difference in
the ratings.
Thanks in advance.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 08:09:16 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: re:  307 VIN 9

I have the 85 book, and it shows completely different procedures to
remove pistons from rods, because the "Y" 307 has full floating wrist
pins, and the "9" has press fit.

The cam in the 85 "Y" is roller, hence the cam button on the front of
the cam to the front cover.  Also, the lifters are specific to "Y" only
(roller, duh! <g>).  "9" has a .440/.440 lift cam, the "Y" is (forgot
exact numbers) more like a .370/.390 lift on the cam.  Much wimpier.
The .440/.440 lift on the cam seems to be a new grind for Olds, the
closest to it was like 69 and older, but I cannot remember on what.  No
clue on duration.  I want to install a "9" cam into a 350, should make a
nice cam matched to 3.42 gears!!

The heads have different grinding specs, but that could be carried over,
so I cannot confirm what heads by the service manual as it does not list
casting numbers.   The "Y" has a 30 degree cut on valves, the "9" has
45, or vice versa.  One is designed for better flow at higher lift.
Typical for GM to do on high performance engines.

The carb is different in 85, the "Y" is 2 point adjust, the "9" is 3
point.  Wish I knew what else was different!!  The casting number on the
carb is different.

Manifolds are cast iron on "9", Tubular Steel in the "G" Body "Y" 307.

Look in the book under engine rebuilding and see what you find to
compare, the "9" gets a lot of listing differently.  Note them and
compare to "Y" 307.  Much of what is found on the 307 "Y" is found on
the "N" 350, "N" you say?  Diesel!  Last year was supposedly 85.  The
roller cam debuted on the Diesel in 1980.  I think full floating wrist
pins did as well (anyone?).  The Diesel has shorter rods.  Probably for
torsional strength and rigidity, as well as to give the piston more mass
for the compression ignition.  (Thicker at dome, and a tall piston).

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac


>From:	"Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
>Subject: Re: 307 Vin 9
>
>Mike,
>
>I don't have anything newer than an 85 tech manual, where it DOES show
>the difference....Y engines had roller, where "9" engines did not.  If
>someone with an 86 or 87 service manual can check this out, we can put
>this baby to bed.
>
>I have an '87 service manual, BUT have no idea what you're talking about.
><g> Don't know a whole lot about engine internals yet. I'm trying though.
>
>Looked through the manual, and the only differences I can easily find
>between 'Y' and '9' engines is the exhaust manifolds, cam, and valve
>springs.
>
>If you guys can tell me what to look for, I'll try looking it up.
>
>- -Mark Tupper   1987 442
> mtupper@palacenet.net       http://www.cyberglyphs.com/442/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 08:16:18 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: electric choke hookup

With the (temporary) swap of a 72 455 into my 69 W-31, I plan on running
Edelbrocks version of the  Rochester carb with an electric choke.  Where
would be an ideal place to get the required 12 volts for this electric
choke hookup? Battery terminal on the alt?  Is the voltage regulator on
the firewall a possibility?  What about the wiper motor or horn?
Although I think I would have to have the wipers on all the time or horn
permanently depressed for these to work.  The only things I have heard
is to NOT hook it to the coil.  Any help is greatly appreciated, thank
you.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 09:27:53 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: electric choke hookup

...Where would be an ideal place to get the required 12 volts for this
electric
choke hookup?...
Chris Smetana
___________

Chris,

First, you should use a _switched_ 12 v source for the choke, one that only
comes on with the key in the ON position.  It  should not be a source which
comes on in the ACC position, since having the key in that position with
the engine not running (like, playing the radio) would cause the coil to
heat up and open the choke, even if the engine were cold.  Ideally, a
source such as the feed for power windows would be a good choice.

Of course, the solution to this is to run an oil pressure switch in series
with the choke coil.  In this way, the coil only gets voltage if the engine
is running.  In fact, you could use the oil press switch and simply wire
directly to any 12v source.  Later model cars with electric fuel pumps
typically have such pressure switches.  I've actually used the switch from
a Vega.  This unit had three contacts.  The center contact is the idiot
light terminal, while the other two contacts are the terminals of the
switch.  Simply ignore the center one and wire the other two in series with
the 12v feed to your choke coil.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 09:38:28 -0400
From: "Wagner, John" <WagnerJo@pios.com>
Subject: RE: electric choke hookup

Why not the hot lead that is on the fan relay. The choke only pulls
power when it's needs too and the leads for the fan are fairly high
current capable.

John

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 09:40:00 -0400
From: "Felix, Josh " <Josh.Felix@turner.com>
Subject: 425 Timing

     Hey gang,

     Can anyone tell me the correct timing for the 66 425ci motor?

     Also when I look at the timing tab at the balancer it is just three
     little marks.  No numbers.  Can anyone tell me what the marks mean and
     which is 0 degrees?

     Thanx
     Josh
     67 Cutlass
     425 / TH400

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 09:50:55 -0400
From: "Angel Castrodad" <angleki@prtc.net>
Subject: Re:85 Cutlass?

Tom,
	Just to give you an idea of what a 307 is capable, I'll repost the info
from the timeslip of a recent track visit.

reaction-------- .643
60ft    -------- 2.580
330ft   -------- 7.159
1/8th ET ------- 10.989
1/8th mph ------ 63.73
1/4 ET  -------- 17.203
1/4 mph -------- 78.53

Now this pass was done with 8 or 9 month old plugs, older plug wires, dirty
paper air filter, car temp at 190-something degrees, on a 90 degree night.
My car is a "STOCK" '86 442 with the "9"(HYD) 307, TH-350 trans, and 3.73
rear gears. Since then, only mods I've made were a K&N filter, Split fire
plugs, Accel 8mm wires and extension of the air snorkel so it takes air from
below the front bumper (poor man's ram-air?). I haven't tryed it since but I
know times WILL improved. With NO tweaking I should get it to th high 16s
secs.
Did I mention that the trans is slipping a bit?

Angel Castrodad
angleki@prtc.net

86'442--->> 307/5A/TH-350/3.73

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 08:49:28 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: electric choke hookup

Joe,
The car doesn't have power windows, so guess that eliminates that.  It
does have the oil pressure sending unit for ralley gauges.  So are you
saying I can just use the existing oil pressure sending unit setup and
run a wire of the appropriate gauge from the sending unit connection to
the electric choke on the carb?  Or should I get a sending unit with
more terminals/contacts, like the Vega unit you mentioned, and use that
with my existing brass elbow, if the threads match?  Just want to be
sure I understand you correctly.
Also what gauge wire should I use?

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

>----------
>From: 	Padavano.Joe@orbital.com[SMTP:Padavano.Joe@orbital.com]
>Sent: 	Friday, June 26, 1998 8:27 AM
>To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: 	Re: electric choke hookup
>
>
>...Where would be an ideal place to get the required 12 volts for this
>electric
>choke hookup?...
>Chris Smetana
>___________
>
>Chris,
>
>First, you should use a _switched_ 12 v source for the choke, one that only
>comes on with the key in the ON position.  It  should not be a source which
>comes on in the ACC position, since having the key in that position with
>the engine not running (like, playing the radio) would cause the coil to
>heat up and open the choke, even if the engine were cold.  Ideally, a
>source such as the feed for power windows would be a good choice.
>
>Of course, the solution to this is to run an oil pressure switch in series
>with the choke coil.  In this way, the coil only gets voltage if the engine
>is running.  In fact, you could use the oil press switch and simply wire
>directly to any 12v source.  Later model cars with electric fuel pumps
>typically have such pressure switches.  I've actually used the switch from
>a Vega.  This unit had three contacts.  The center contact is the idiot
>light terminal, while the other two contacts are the terminals of the
>switch.  Simply ignore the center one and wire the other two in series with
>the 12v feed to your choke coil.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>70 W-30
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 09:45:27 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: RE: electric choke hookup

...The choke only pulls power when it's needs too and the leads for the fan
are fairly high current capable.
John
______________

Actually, that's not quite true.  The electric choke assemblies I'm
familiar with simply use a nichrome resistance wire to heat up a bimetallic
coil.  The resistance wire draws electricity constantly, otherwise the
bimetallic coil would cool down and the choke would close.

Of course, the other problem is that a 69 W-31 doesn't have an electric
fan.  That would probably work on a newer car, however.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 09:54:16 -0400
From: "Angel Castrodad" <angleki@prtc.net>
Subject: Re: 85 Cutlass

I don't know Thomas. I think you could let loose on the Autobahn and STILL
not get even close to 180 on a Cutlass


Angel Castrodad
angleki@prtc.net

86'442--->> 307/5A/TH-350/3.73

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 08:53:30 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: electric choke hookup

Fan relay?  That doesn't ring a bell.  Where is that located?  On the
firewall kinda near the master cylinder?  Or is it on the driver
fender/inner fender area (or is that the horn relay)?

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

>----------
>From: 	Wagner, John[SMTP:WagnerJo@pios.com]
>Sent: 	Friday, June 26, 1998 8:38 AM
>To: 	'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
>Subject: 	RE: electric choke hookup
>
>Why not the hot lead that is on the fan relay. The choke only pulls
>power when it's needs too and the leads for the fan are fairly high
>current capable.
>
>John
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 09:53:58 -0400
From: "Wagner, John" <WagnerJo@pios.com>
Subject: RE: electric choke hookup

You're right !

John

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 09:54:35 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: RE: Brake Shoes: which is which

The brakes I've gotten for my '72 Cutlass ..one was larger than the
other, the larger shoe went in the front position as I remember..but I
also thought that was the only way it would go in for some reason.
John
______________
Actually, I always thought the larger shoe went on the back.  In a
traditional single wheel cylinder drum brake configuration, the front shoe
is "self energizing" due to the rotation of the drum.  In other words, as
the wheel cylinder pushes the shoes out at the top (leading edge of the
shoe), the rotation of the drum grabs the foward one and friction pulls it
into the drum even harder.  The back shoe, unfortunately, gets pushed out
at what is its trailing edge, and so the self energizing effect doesn't
work there.  As a result, the larger shoe is required on the back to
provide the same stopping force as the self energizing shoe on the front.
Typically, the metal part of the shoe is the same for both shoes, but the
lining will be different.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 10:07:11 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: KREEN

Bruce:

Best radiator stop leak is damn near free in most restaurants.

Ground black pepper.

Mark
75 Delta 88 Conv

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 09:07:53 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: Brake Shoes: which is which

>The brakes I've gotten for my '72 Cutlass ..one was larger than the
>other, the larger shoe went in the front position as I remember..but I
>also thought that was the only way it would go in for some reason.
>John
>______________
>Actually, I always thought the larger shoe went on the back.  In a
>traditional single wheel cylinder drum brake configuration, the front shoe
>is "self energizing" due to the rotation of the drum.  In other words, as
>the wheel cylinder pushes the shoes out at the top (leading edge of the
>shoe), the rotation of the drum grabs the foward one and friction pulls it
>into the drum even harder.  The back shoe, unfortunately, gets pushed out
>at what is its trailing edge, and so the self energizing effect doesn't
>work there.  As a result, the larger shoe is required on the back to
>provide the same stopping force as the self energizing shoe on the front.
>Typically, the metal part of the shoe is the same for both shoes, but the
>lining will be different.


I thought the same thing also.  The metal part of the shoe is the same,
but the 'meat' or actual surface that touches the drum is different in
size.  The larger goes on the back and the smaller goes on the front.
It'll still work if you flip them, been there done that on my first
front drum brake overhaul, but it's not how they are supposed to be.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 98 10:12:28 EDT
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: rechrome plastic

At 01:03 PM 6/25/98 EDT, you wrote:
>So after the chrome is off what do you guys put back on?
>

    I used a paint pen made by Tester's (chrome silver) found in most hobby
shop stores. The finish is not the same as real chrome but more like a real
bright silver.  Doesn't look that bad at all.  There is also a chrome foil
found in hobby shops as well, that will look closer to the original finish
but I haven't used it to see the results.


    Glenn
    '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 09:14:36 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: '69 w30 and w31 owners

Here are the measurements I have for the scoop moldings:
'68 13 1/2  x  2 1/2
'69 10 1/2  x  2 5/8

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31 (in need of scoops)
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

>----------
>From: 	Brent Pinkstaff[SMTP:fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com]
>Sent: 	Wednesday, June 24, 1998 4:10 PM
>To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: 	'69 w30 and w31 owners
>
>Hey all,
>
>A few days ago I posted the measurements for the ram air scoops from the
>'68 cars. The difference between the '68 and '69 scoops has been a topic
>several times in the 9 months or so I've been on the list, and twice
>here just recently. I know that there are people on the list have '69
>scoops. You mean to tell me no one has the time to measure these
>things!?
>
>This would be great info for the FAQ...
>
>Brent Pinkstaff
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 10:15:10 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: RE: electric choke hookup

Joe,
The car doesn't have power windows, so guess that eliminates that.  It
does have the oil pressure sending unit for ralley gauges.  So are you
saying I can just use the existing oil pressure sending unit setup and
run a wire of the appropriate gauge from the sending unit connection to
the electric choke on the carb?  Or should I get a sending unit with
more terminals/contacts, like the Vega unit you mentioned, and use that
with my existing brass elbow, if the threads match?  Just want to be
sure I understand you correctly.
Also what gauge wire should I use?
Chris Smetana
__________________

Actually, Chris, your fuse box _does_ have a terminal to feed the power
windows.  It's designed so the window harness would just plug in if the car
were so equipped.  As for the sending unit/switch, what I've done in this
situation is to use a brass nipple about 2" long screwed into the block and
a "T" fitting attached to that.  The rally pac sender screws into one part
of the T and the pressure switch into the other.  It's not pretty, but it
works.  You have to use a pressure switch which has two isolated switch
terminals; idiot light senders by themselves just have one wire switching
to ground.  I've used 14 gauge wire with no problems.



                         ___|_
                        /     \
                       |       |<-----Rally Pac sender
                       |       |
                       |       |
                      ===========
   Oil Press Switch      _|_|_
     |                  |     |
     |        ____     _|     |<------Brass "T"
      \->  __|    |___|       |
           __|     ___|       |
             |____|   |_      |
                        |     |
                        |_____|
                          | |
                          | |<--------Nipple
                __________| |______



Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 09:44:18 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: electric choke hookup

>Actually, Chris, your fuse box _does_ have a terminal to feed the power
>windows.  It's designed so the window harness would just plug in if the car
>were so equipped.  As for the sending unit/switch, what I've done in this
>situation is to use a brass nipple about 2" long screwed into the block and
>a "T" fitting attached to that.  The rally pac sender screws into one part
>of the T and the pressure switch into the other.  It's not pretty, but it
>works.  You have to use a pressure switch which has two isolated switch
>terminals; idiot light senders by themselves just have one wire switching
>to ground.  I've used 14 gauge wire with no problems.
>

Well, yes you're right my fuse box would have the power window terminal.
 So, assuming I have a fuse in the power window position, I could just
run a wire from the fuse box power window terminal to the choke and it
would work. Or, just had a thought, I could use the 2" brass nipple with
the T and screw the rally pac sender into one and for the other could I
use the idiot light oil sending unit, since I happen to have one?  Guess
I'm kinda confused about the differences between an oil pressure sending
unit and an oil pressure switch.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 10:43:09 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Temp (cooling) questions

I have a 160 thermostat in it, I just replaced the FanClutch. The oil
pressure is good and I didn't turn the AC on at all.
What temp should it run at?
What can/should I do?
Any help, as always will be greatly appreciated.
Pat McD
____________

Pat,

What size (how many rows) radiator do you have?  As others have suggested,
the timing could be off.  Another problem is blockage in the radiator.
Perhaps in the course of flushing the system, you loosened years of sludge
and associated crap in the block which has resettled in the radiator.  I
had exactly this problem in my truck.  The truck would idle all day long,
but as soon as I drove it at freeway speeds for 10 minutes or more, it
would heat up dramatically, even to the point of boiling over (so I knew it
wasn't a bad sending unit or gauge).  It turns out that the bottom half of
the radiator was seriously plugged, which I was able to determine by
(carefully) feeling various parts of the radiator core with my hand after
warming up the engine.  The bottom half of the radiator remained cold to
the touch despite the 250 degree reading on the temp gauge.  A new radiator
solved the problem - the truck rarely runs above 180 deg under any
conditions.

Note that if your overheating problems occur only at high speeds, the
problem is unlikely to be fan or fan clutch related.  On the freeway you
will have more than enough airflow without the fan.  Items besides blockage
which could be a cause are the aforementioned timing and an overly-lean
carb.

And to address another question, antifreeze does _not_ increase the boiling
point  of the coolant - it simply lowers the freezing point (as well as
introducing corrosion inhibitors).  It is the pressure in the system that
raises the boiling point (the boiling point of water increases with
pressure and decreased with reduced pressure; 212 degrees is the boiling
point at sea level, but this temperature goes down as you climb in
altitude, hence the need for high altitude directions on cake mixes).
That's why most radiator caps run 14-16 psi.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 08:05:44 -0700
From: "mike aldana" <maldana@inreach.com>
Subject: Parts available

Hi to all on the list. Cleaning up storage, wife says i go or parts go.....
1971 Cutlass rear lenses, and housings $10.00
1970 front bumper core (cutlass) $30.00 needs some repair and chrome, no
rust.
1970 cutlass rear lenses and housings $10.00
1966 cutlass parts
1966 center console with vacuum gauge, no door  $30.00
1966 radio (works) $15.00 (am pushbutton)
1966 hubcaps $10.00
1966 lh side trim
1966 rear bumper $30.00 needs work and chrome, very doable.
1966 straight rust free doors $60.00 ea.complete with glass etc.$75.00
1966 steerring wheel some cracks black   $15.00
Please for accurate discriptions email me direct sto   maldana@inreach.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 11:25:15 EDT
From: <Jon442@aol.com>
Subject: Re: rechrome plastic

In a message dated 98-06-26 10:15:02 EDT, you write:

<< There is also a chrome foil
 found in hobby shops as well, that will look closer to the original finish
 but I haven't used it to see the results. >>

I have used the foil, and it doesn't look bad. But it is tricky to work with
and is better used in small areas. It is also fragile. I used it on the chrome
beads on my door panels to make small repairs, and most people don't notice.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 08:30:02 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: '69 w30 and w31 owners

Chris,

Where did you get these measurements from? The reason why I ask is that
I measured my '68 scoops and the opening is 1/2" wider and 1/2" shorter
than these molding measurements are.

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)

>
>Here are the measurements I have for the scoop moldings:
>'68 13 1/2  x  2 1/2
>'69 10 1/2  x  2 5/8
>
>Chris Smetana


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 11:32:32 EDT
From: <Jon442@aol.com>
Subject: '70 Delta 88 parts

I still have some stuff left over from parting out the '70 Delta 4-door. I'm
out of a place to keep it, and it is going to have to go to the crusher real
soon, so if you need anything I have, or know of someone that might, act now.

I still have the front bumper, hood, doors, header panel, core support, left
fender and a few miscellaneous odds and ends. No options. See my list at
www.442.com or email me privately.

This weekend is the H/O nats, so I won't have a chance to check my mail again
until Sunday night.

Jon

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 98 12:21:54 EDT
From: Richard Jerdan <Scott.Jerdan@noaa.gov>
Subject: Cars for Sale

Hello,

I came across this in the Baltimore Sun (Maryland) on Thursday, June 25.
Sorry I haven't called the number yet, but I thought it may be of interest to
some on the list.

"71 Olds 442 and 70 Cutlass W-31 both have ram air.  Other cars & parts
avail. 410 760-2793."

Scott Jerdan
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 12:10:26 EDT
From: <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 70 455 intake

I have been to all the junk yards around my area and they don't have any 455
intakes. I am looking for something off of a 70 automatic car. Does anyone
have one for sale? The reason I need a new intake is so that the Outside Air
Induction set-up will fit. The reason it doesn't fit is because I have a
edelbrock performer on the car now. Please e-mail me privatly if you have one.
Thanks,
Jim McKeague



Uh, Jim?

 Don't bother paying someone for shipping, You can get BB intakes (mostly for
 EGR) at your local boneyard for $20-25! I am planning to use the "donated"
 intake of a 1976 Delta 88 to convert my 1965 425cid factory 2bbl to a 4bbl
 carb. Cost me $20. Just unbolt & block off the EGR fixtures.

 OTOH, the "W" intake that went with the "J" block and "J" heads will not (I
 think) flow as well as your car's original intake did. And the Performer will
 flow air best of the three.

 Depends on what is most important to you. >>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 11:20:31 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: '69 w30 and w31 owners

Brent,
I actually got these from the Brothers catalog.  It's their dimensions
on the scoop moldings.  And of course I assumed these to be correct.  I
think I may have the numbers somewhere else also, I'll have to check.  I
think Karl Sapolis also sells scoops and his little flier (at least the
one I have) also may list dimensions.  So I'll check that and look at a
few other things I have.  But I have heard from other people that the 69
scoop is smaller.
Hmm, I'm wondering if repro scoops for 68 and 69 are made to only one
size?  Are your scoops original?  I do know Mike Siedlik was making the
scoops with 68 brackets since these were stronger (I need to get ahold
of him for these).  I'd like to know the answer to this also, especially
since I'm missing my scoops and need to get a set.  The car just doesn't
look right without the scoops.

Give me some time to get back to you with numbers as I'm up to my neck
in water pumps, starters, alternators and how to hook up an electric
choke

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: dowagro.com

1969 W-31 'what are those funny little things (missing from) under the
bumpers?'
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others
>----------
>From: 	Brent Pinkstaff[SMTP:fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com]
>Sent: 	Friday, June 26, 1998 10:30 AM
>To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: 	RE: '69 w30 and w31 owners
>
>Chris,
>
>Where did you get these measurements from? The reason why I ask is that
>I measured my '68 scoops and the opening is 1/2" wider and 1/2" shorter
>than these molding measurements are.
>
>Brent Pinkstaff
>'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)
>
>>
>>Here are the measurements I have for the scoop moldings:
>>'68 13 1/2  x  2 1/2
>>'69 10 1/2  x  2 5/8
>>
>>Chris Smetana
>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 12:22:10 -0400
From: "Gib Loudon" <cutlass@mill.tds.net>
Subject: Re: alternators

Chris Smetana,
This is what you want to do....take your original alternator to your local
starter and alternator shop.  Tell them you want them to change the guts so
that it is a 100 amp alternator.  I did this on my 69 and let me tell
you.....I used to have a problem with my lites flickering when I was on and
off the gas....NOT ANYMORE PAL!  I have a 350 w/AC, a 600 watt amplifier, In
dash CD player, and 12 inch subwoofers.......no problems here......I love
the results.....hope this helps.

Gib Loudon (a.k.a. "The Rocketman")
1969 Cutlass "S" Holiday Coupe
"Reb Thunder"
cutlass@mill.tds.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 12:33:34 -0400
From: "Gib Loudon" <cutlass@mill.tds.net>
Subject: FOR SALE:  69 CUTLASS FRONT FENDERS

Attention 68 cutlass owners:

I have a set of front fenders from a 68 cutlass for sale.  I bought these
fenders last year at the centenial thinking they would work on a 69.  To my
suprise, the hood hinge bolt locations are different.  These fenders have
been repaired the right way....Instead of filling the hole with bondo, he
welded in new sheet metal and smoothed out the outside.  If you need a set
of fenders for your 68 cutlass, or 69 for that matter(if you want to change
you hood hinges), Please email me back, or call (517)871-3586.  I am located
in Michigan Near Flint....about 60 miles north of Detroit.  I am asking
$200.00 for the pair, but the price is very negotiable.....I have to make
room in the garage.  Get back to me if you are interested.  We will discuss
shipping options.

Gib Loudon (a.k.a. "The Rocketman")
1969 Cutlass "S" Holiday Coupe
"Reb Thunder"
cutlass@mill.tds.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 11:42:46 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: alt. mounting bracket, Oh Oh

When I removed my alt to do the engine swap, the head of the long
through mounting bolt snapped off, so the alt is permanently on the
bracket.  Year One listed the bracket in their catalog so I figured if I
couldn't get the bolt out, I'd just order another one.  Well, I tried
grabbing the threads sticking out with robogrip pliers and no dice.  So
I called Year One and they said the bracket has been discontinued by the
vendor. D'OH!!!  So I guess my next step is to get the drill out to
remove the bolt.  My question is does anyone have a lower alternator
mounting bracket for 66-72 V8 cutlass/4-4-2 cars ~without~ a/c for sale.
 For reference, the alt mounts on the passenger side about where the a/c
compressor would go had the car come with a/c.  I'm getting somewhat
desperate, as I don't have much time to get the car running before
Springfield, and I don't want the first drive in the car to be the Wed I
leave for Nationals.  I'd like to get the car running at least a week
before, to work out any bugs.  You are welcome to call me if you have
the bracket for sale or know where I can get one.  Thank you very much
for any help, leads or assistance.

If you need a picture, Year One catalog #R3198, pg 96 is what I'm
talking about.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: 317-337-4787
home: 812-299-2547
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 09:52:35 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: '69 w30 and w31 owners

Chris,

> I
>think Karl Sapolis also sells scoops and his little flier (at least the
>one I have) also may list dimensions.

Karl makes scoop mouldings. I wouldn't be surprised if Brothers sells
his product (just a guess though).

> But I have heard from other people that the 69
>scoop is smaller.
>Hmm, I'm wondering if repro scoops for 68 and 69 are made to only one
>size?

Yes the '69 scoop is slimmer and taller and is the only one that is
reproduced. This is the thread that has came on several times on the
list. I have just been trying to assemble this info to submit it for
addition to the FAQ. Rob Thomas has e-mailed me and said that his '69
scoops are 10 1/2" X 2 1/2"

> Are your scoops original?

Mine are original and appear to be 14" X 2".



Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 10:24:32 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Oxygen sensor

Previously I wrote:
> You'll also need some socket wrench extensions, one or two
> universal joints and a honking big ratchet handle for leverage.
>
> It might be a little easier to crack loose when the engine is hot,
> if you can get access without burning yourself on the manifold.

I forgot to mention that I eventually got access to the sensor on
the '82 Cutlass V6 not from above but by going in through the right
side wheel well. That's why I needed multiple extensions on the
ratchet handle, but OTOH, by going at it more-or-less straight on,
it was a lot easier to bear down on the wrench while trying to
crack loose the old sensor.

Unfortunately there is no easy way to get at the in-line connector
which links the sensor pigtail to the wiring harness; that one's
often kind of buried behind the wheel well. Getting it unplugged
may be the fiddliest part of the whole operation.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 12:36:17 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: '69 w30 and w31 owners

Brent,
>
>Yes the '69 scoop is slimmer and taller and is the only one that is
>reproduced. This is the thread that has came on several times on the
>list. I have just been trying to assemble this info to submit it for
>addition to the FAQ. Rob Thomas has e-mailed me and said that his '69
>scoops are 10 1/2" X 2 1/2"

I can see your dilemma.  Have you tried giving one of the OCA advisors a
call to see what info he may have?  I have their names and numbers with
me if you need them.
>
>> Are your scoops original?
>
>Mine are original and appear to be 14" X 2".
>
>Brent Pinkstaff
>'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)

Not to be pickey or anything, but why do you only list your 70 here.
Since you replied to Chris Sparks' email about W-31 and 442 and said you
have a 68 and you have original bumper scoops, I'm guessing you've got a
68 W-30.  How about some details.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 10:39:15 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: FOR SALE:  69 CUTLASS FRONT FENDERS

Gib,

> I have a set of front fenders from a 68 cutlass for sale.  I bought these
> fenders last year at the centenial thinking they would work on a 69.  To my
> suprise, the hood hinge bolt locations are different.  These fenders have
> been repaired the right way....Instead of filling the hole with bondo, he
> welded in new sheet metal and smoothed out the outside.  If you need a set

Will they bolt up right to the frame, I wonder?

> of fenders for your 68 cutlass, or 69 for that matter(if you want to change
> you hood hinges), Please email me back, or call (517)871-3586.  I am located
> in Michigan Near Flint....about 60 miles north of Detroit.  I am asking
> $200.00 for the pair, but the price is very negotiable.....I have to make
> room in the garage.  Get back to me if you are interested.  We will discuss
> shipping options.

Well I need both front fenders for Scarlet.  I wonder how much shipping
wouldcost to go from Michigan to So. Cal?

Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 10:40:40 -0700
From: "Ed Cline" <justaskus@sotelectronics.com>
Subject: Olds Radios

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01BDA0EE.DCE38200
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I thought I would give you guys the first shot on some of these Olds =
radios.  They are new and never been used. There just overstock from =
Delco Electronics.

AM/FM/Cass/EQ    Fits 98 Regency 91-93                    $125
AM/FM/Cass/EQ    Fits Cutlass Supreme 92-93            $125
AM/FM/CD            Fits Silhouette 94-96                       $225
AM/FM/Cass         Fits Cutlass Supreme 94                 $125
AM/FM/Cass/EQ    Fits Cutlass Supreme 94                $125
AM/FM/Cass        Fits 98 Regency/88 Royale 94-95      $125
AM/FM/Cass        Fits 98 Regency/Cutlass Supreme
                            Aurora                                       =
     $125
AM/FM/Cass        Fits Achieva/Cutlass Supreme/
                            98 Regency/ 88 Royale                    =
$125


If your interested please e-mail me justaskus@sotelectronics.com or =
visit
http://www.sotelectronics.com=20

Thanks

- ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01BDA0EE.DCE38200
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I thought I would give you guys the =
first shot=20
on some of these Olds radios.&nbsp; They are new and never been used. =
There just=20
overstock from Delco Electronics.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>AM/FM/Cass/EQ&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Fits 98 Regency=20
91-93&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
$125</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>AM/FM/Cass/EQ&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Fits Cutlass Supreme =

92-93&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
$125</FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT=20
size=3D2>AM/FM/CD&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;=20
Fits Silhouette=20
94-96&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
$225</FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT =
size=3D2>AM/FM/Cass&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
Fits Cutlass Supreme=20
94&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
$125</FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>AM/FM/Cass/EQ&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Fits Cutlass Supreme =

94&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
$125</FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>AM/FM/Cass&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Fits 98=20
Regency/88 Royale 94-95&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
$125</FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>AM/FM/Cass&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Fits 98=20
Regency/Cutlass Supreme</FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000=20
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
Aurora&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
$125</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT=20
size=3D2>AM/FM/Cass&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Fits =
Achieva/Cutlass=20
Supreme/</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000=20
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
98 Regency/ 88=20
Royale&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
$125</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>If your interested please e-mail me =
<A=20
href=3D"mailto:justaskus@sotelectronics.com">justaskus@sotelectronics.com=
</A> or=20
<FONT color=3D#000000>visit</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.sotelectronics.com">http://www.sotelectronics.com</A> =

</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01BDA0EE.DCE38200--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 10:48:04 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: '69 w30 and w31 owners

Chris,

Close. I have a '68 H/O sport coupe. Ironically another list member and
I were dicussing the fact that it would be nice if the H/O (or his w-30
for that matter) was in the condition that your w-31 is in. It's quite
the project. Mr. Hankey is my daily driver.

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)


> I'm guessing you've got a
>68 W-30.  How about some details.
>
>Chris Smetana


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 13:52:32 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Pressure switch questions

Chris,

To answer your question about the sending unit vs. a pressure switch:

The sending unit for a rally pac or other gauge is a variable resistor,
which changes based on pressure.  One side of the resistor is connected to
ground through the threads on the sender that screw into the block and the
wiper contact (that moves on the resistor with pressure) is attached to the
terminal on the sender.  This won't work with the choke.

The sending unit for an idiot light is an on-off switch that is normally
closed when there is no oil pressure and normally open when there _is_ oil
pressure.  It also has one side connected to ground through the threads and
the other side connected to the terminal on the sender.  This won't work
with the choke either, since it works the opposite of what you want (you
need the switch to be _closed_ under pressure, so the choke only works when
the engine is running).

The pressure switch I decribed actually works opposite of the idiot light
sender.  It is normally open with no oil pressure (so the choke doesn't
work with the engine not running) and normally closed when there is
pressure.  In addition, most of these switches are isolated from the
housing; unlike senders the switch is  _not_ grounded through the threads
in the switch but instead a separate terminal is provided for each end of
the switch.  I usually splice this into the 12v line that feeds the choke.

The Vega part I described actually combines the idiot light sending unit
and pressure switch functions into one common housing, so that there are
three separate terminals.  ASCII art follows:


Gauge sending unit           Idiot Light Sender          Pressure Switch
(Variable Resistance)        (Closed without pressure)   (Open without
pressure)


                |                         |                     |      |
                |                         |                     |      |
           _____|__                       |                     |      |
          /     |  \              ________|__                 __|______|__
         |   \  |   |             |       |  |               |  |      |  |
         |   /  |   |             |       |  |               |  |      |  |
         |   \  |   |             | o<----o  |               |  o      o  |
         |   /<-|   |             | |        |               |        /   |
         |   \      |             | |        |               |       /    |
         |   /      |             | |        |               |      /     |
         |   |      |             ------------               |            |
         |   |      |                 <--->                  --------------
        ==============                <--->                       <--->
            <--->                     <--->                       <--->
            <--->                                                 <--->
            <--->

Hope this helps

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1331
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