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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1340


oldsmobile-digest       Tuesday, June 30 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1340



Re:  Headers & "H" vs. "X"
Fire
unsubscribe oldsmobile-digest
Re: AC conversion
Re: G-tech G meter, real or phoney?
Oldsmobile Nationals
Re: rear disc(my two bits-Again!)
Rear window removal
Chris Witt (Was Re: Adios)
Re: Fire
Re: rear disc
Re: Chris Witt (Was Re: Adios)
Returned mail: User unknown
Re: rear disc(my two bits-Again!)
RE: Fire
Re: AC conversion
RE: Fire
Re: Oldsmobile Nationals
RE: AC conversion
RE: Oldsmobile Nationals
A/C Blower Problems
RE: AC conversion
RE: AC conversion
Parts for sale
Re: AC conversion
Re: AC conversion
Re: AC conversion
Re: AC conversion
Re:street racing/Soffsealvs.Metro/Jonathan Parke
Re: Loss of brake fluid
LOOKING FOR 64 CUTLASS PARTS-IM DESPERATE-NEED 64 CUTLASS PARTS
Re: street racing/Soffsealvs.Metro/Jonathan Parke
Re: LOOKING FOR 64 CUTLASS PARTS-IM DESPERATE-NEED 64 CUTLASS PARTS
Re: AC conversion
RE: electric choke hookup
Re: Oxygen sensor
Re: LOOKING FOR 64 CUTLASS PARTS-IM DESPERATE-NEED 64 CUTLASS PARTS
More motor mounts (long)
Re: Loss of brake fluid
Re: rear disc(my two bits-Again!)
RE: Adios
Re: A/C Blower Problems
RE: electric choke hookup
Re: Intake
RE: electric choke hookup
which vinyl dye is best?
Returned mail: User unknown
Re: AC conversion
RE: which vinyl dye is best?
RE: which vinyl dye is best?
Re: rear disc(my two bits-Again!)
Re: mileage question
Re: rear disc(my two bits-Again!)
Vinyl Seats
Re: Olds Limo / Ambulance / Hearse
Re: rear disc(my two bits-Again!)
Re: rear disc(my two bits-Again!)
Last Comment: rear disc(my two bits-Again!)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:21:05 EDT
From: <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  Headers & "H" vs. "X"

Can't speak for the X system. I have 3" full system w/ H crossover
and Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers with .030 455 runs 11.80 on
DOT tire thru exhaust. Mine seems to work ok with the H system.

Hint for installation. Have shop weld flanges on each end of mufflers
and pipes that connect to mufflers, along with center of crossover to allow
removal of system very easy. Makes for better sealing also
vs. U clamps.

Rgds,
Rob THomas\
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:44:10 -0400
From: "Tarnoff, Howard" <TarnoffH@simplexnet.com>
Subject: Fire

Hello,

Yesterday, on my way from Milwaukee Wisconsin to Franklin MA my 1968 Olds 98
Convertable was destroyed in a fire/explosion.  The good news is that there
were no serious injuries.

This car was my father-in-laws and had never seen bad weather.  Over the
last 13 years, since his death, it had been in environmently controlled
storage and driven about 500 miles per year.  It was mint.

I need some help from you folks in determining the value and in proving that
value to the insurance people.

Also, I have available the following items which I just had purchased from
Faxons:

1968 Sales Information 3 ring binder (full line)
1968 Service/Shop Manual
1968 Fisher Body Manual
1968 Brochure
1968 Paint Chip Sheet
1968 Owners Manual and Convertable Top Manual

Please email directly to:
tarnoffh@simplexnet.com   or
tarnoffh@norfolk-county.com

Thanks

Howard Tarnoff

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:45:31 -0400
From: "Tarnoff, Howard" <TarnoffH@simplexnet.com>
Subject: unsubscribe oldsmobile-digest

	unsubscribe oldsmobile-digest

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 09:46:49 -0500
From: "Doug Beavers" <dbtech@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: AC conversion

I've seen a $30.00 kit at auto parts store that supposedly converts R-12 to
134A? Anyone used it?
Doug



>Is it possible to just change the oil in the system, change the fittings
>and use R-134a in place of R-12?
>
>Mark
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 09:50:05 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: G-tech G meter, real or phoney?

accelerometer
The Physics of it where originally researched by a young Serbian scientist
known as Nikola Tesla (his name is on it).  The G-Tech has provided many
hours of enjoyment with me and my friends in our cars, (300ZXTT,67 Cutlass,
ViperVenom600,Lingenfelter Vette).  Everyone needs one.
Brett
67 Cutlass Convertible

- -----Original Message-----
From: Joe & Toni Artwell <tjf26@gte.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, June 30, 1998 12:25 AM
Subject: Re: G-tech G meter, real or phoney?


>My friend has one and we use it all the time and it works. It does have
>to do with physics. My father-in-law flies in the Air Force and is into
>cars. He said it is an accelinometer(?). Basically it calculates how
>much force it takes to move a given amount of weight and then measures
>the G-forces..It does work pretty good.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:52:58 EDT
From: <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: Oldsmobile Nationals

Is anyone taking there car down to Springfield for the Olds Nationals?
Just wondering.

====================================
Jim McKeague
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html">
http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html</A>
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:54:01 EDT
From: <DiscoOzzy@aol.com>
Subject: Re: rear disc(my two bits-Again!)

In a message dated 6/30/98 6:35:02 AM !!!First Boot!!!, DYeager535@aol.com
writes:

<< why would a car manufacturer ever install them? (Early C*maro's
 come to mind >>

Cum-aro's never came with rear disc before some time in the mid to late 80s.
Trans Ams however were disc'ed in 79.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:55:14 -0400
From: "Michael A. Evans" <evans1@net-link.net>
Subject: Rear window removal

Hey,

Are there any important do's or don'ts in removing the back glass from my
'76 Cutlass?  The outer trim is already gone....is there a special tool for
cutting the seal, or just slice at will and put the new seal in at
installation time?

TIA,

Mike Evans
Richland, MI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:56:47 -0400
From: "Michael A. Evans" <evans1@net-link.net>
Subject: Chris Witt (Was Re: Adios)

Hey,

Did I miss something here?  The Wittmeister ditched us permanently?  I
thought he was just signing off for a bit......

At 08:59 AM 6/30/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Sometimes its hard to know what to take seriously. I think Chris Urban was
>givin Chris Witt sh*t as Chris Witt is inclined to give others sh*t. Not all
>of it is serious as a heart attack. I suspicion these two have been know to
>dish to each other for some years now.
>
>I too am indebeted to Chris Witt both for parts & information. I will miss
>his participation. Sometimes when taking myself too seriously, though, I
>felt like he was out to ridicule me at every opportunity --- and maybe he
>did. So freakin' what.
>
>Too much soap box from me.
>
>roger hitson
>
>
Mike Evans
Richland, MI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:04:57 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: Fire

Howard,
You have my condolences for your loss.  I would try to get a replacement 98
convertible from the insurance company.  That may be the easiest way to
settle.  It worked out well for a friend and his '79 M*stang Indy pace car.
He located the replacement pace car and the insurance company paid for it.  It
was a like for like deal, close mileage, same options and all that.

Good Luck,
Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

P.S.
What caused the fire?  Anything that the rest of us watch out for?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 11:07:30 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: rear disc

> Cum-aro's never came with rear disc before some time in the mid to late 80s.
> Trans Ams however were disc'ed in 79.

Not that anyone on this list should care, but rear discs WERE listed as
an option on '69 Camaroo Z28s.

Why Olds never got them back then is anyone's guess.  I would love to
think that Olds engineers didn't want to spend buku bucks to install
expensive brakes that wouldn't begin to stop the flight of a rocket
anyway, but, Oldsmobile never got a "brake" from GM.  heh heh  Oh,
please, "stop" the brake humor! heh heh  Laughing so hard I may slip a
"disc" or blow a seal and "bleed" to death! heh heh

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 11:13:29 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <jlabay@ee.net>
Subject: Re: Chris Witt (Was Re: Adios)

Man I sure hope Chris hasn't permanently left. Since I joined the list in 1995
he is one of a handful of people I have met that actually know Olds inside and
out, great guy. He has given me advice more than once that has bailed me out of
trouble with my Olds projects.

Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500.....Vortec 350, A4, 4.10
80 Olds 442 W-30........350, A3, 2.73
75 Hurst/Olds W-25.....350, A3, 2.56
72 Cutlass Supreme.....drag car project
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael A. Evans <evans1@net-link.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, June 30, 1998 11:07 AM
Subject: Chris Witt (Was Re: Adios)


>Hey,
>
>Did I miss something here?  The Wittmeister ditched us permanently?  I
>thought he was just signing off for a bit......
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 11:06:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: MAILER-DAEMON@merge1.mergetel.com (Mail Delivery Subsystem)
Subject: Returned mail: User unknown

The original message was received at Tue Jun 30 11:06:44 EDT 1998
from  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

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Final-Recipient: RFC822; lee@merge1
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>From oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca  Tue Jun 30 11:06:39 1998
Return-Path: <oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca>
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<006a01bda439$a57f0ca0$1258bed1@default> From: "Jason P. Labay" 
<jlabay@ee.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca> Subject: Re: Chris Witt (Was Re: Adios) Date:
	Tue, 30 Jun 1998 11:13:29 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: 
text/plain;
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Small Fry X-SBRule: Pass-No Pattern Matching

Man I sure hope Chris hasn't permanently left. Since I joined the list in 1995
he is one of a handful of people I have met that actually know Olds inside and
out, great guy. He has given me advice more than once that has bailed me out of
trouble with my Olds projects.

Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500.....Vortec 350, A4, 4.10
80 Olds 442 W-30........350, A3, 2.73
75 Hurst/Olds W-25.....350, A3, 2.56
72 Cutlass Supreme.....drag car project
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael A. Evans <evans1@net-link.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, June 30, 1998 11:07 AM
Subject: Chris Witt (Was Re: Adios)


>Hey,
>
>Did I miss something here?  The Wittmeister ditched us permanently?  I
>thought he was just signing off for a bit......
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 08:12:34 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: rear disc(my two bits-Again!)

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but......

Camaro (maybe only with the z28 option) could be had with rear discs in
'69.

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)
>
>Cum-aro's never came with rear disc before some time in the mid to late
80s.
>Trans Ams however were disc'ed in 79.
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:14:00 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: Fire

Huh?  surely your fingers didn't get in the way again.
Chris

>----------
>From: 	David L Wyatt[SMTP:WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com]
>Sent: 	Tuesday, June 30, 1998 10:04 AM
>To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: 	Re: Fire
>
>Howard,
>You have my condolences for your loss.  I would try to get a replacement 98
>convertible from the insurance company.  That may be the easiest way to
>settle.  It worked out well for a friend and his '79 M*stang Indy pace car.
>He located the replacement pace car and the insurance company paid for it.
>It
>was a like for like deal, close mileage, same options and all that.
>
>Good Luck,
>Dave Wyatt
>70  4-4-2
>
>P.S.
>What caused the fire?  Anything that the rest of us watch out for?
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:14:04 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: AC conversion

According to a couple of mechanics I have spoken with, the kit is not
necessary in most GM cases.
Just drain out most of the old oil when doing the conversion and replace it
with the proper new oil and new fittings.  Seals and other items are useable
as is.  A new dryer may be installed , but not necessary.
Check around with some of your local shops as this is a common upgrade.  I was
quoted $300 to do the complete job.  That seemed steep for my $600 Malibu
wagon work/race/truck car, but it may be reasonable for a nice car.

Just my $.02
Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:15:22 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: Fire

Opps!!! Sorry all my brain is not functioning this morning.

Chris

>----------
>From: 	Smetana, Christopher
>Sent: 	Tuesday, June 30, 1998 10:14 AM
>To: 	'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
>Subject: 	RE: Fire
>
>Huh?  surely your fingers didn't get in the way again.
>Chris
>
>----------
>From: 	David L Wyatt[SMTP:WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com]
>Sent: 	Tuesday, June 30, 1998 10:04 AM
>To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: 	Re: Fire
>
>Howard,
>You have my condolences for your loss.  I would try to get a replacement 98
>convertible from the insurance company.  That may be the easiest way to
>settle.  It worked out well for a friend and his '79 M*stang Indy pace car.
>He located the replacement pace car and the insurance company paid for it.
>It
>was a like for like deal, close mileage, same options and all that.
>
>Good Luck,
>Dave Wyatt
>70  4-4-2
>
>P.S.
>What caused the fire?  Anything that the rest of us watch out for?
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 11:15:06 EDT
From: <JCRASH7@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Nationals

<< Is anyone taking there car down to Springfield for the Olds Nationals?
 Just wondering. >>

When is that, anyway?  I'll be down close to there Friday untill I go up to
Lansing.

Joe Sherbanenko
84 Delta 88 Royale Brougham Coupe
88 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
http://www.oldsmobile.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:22:11 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: AC conversion

Dave,
The guy I work with who has a 72 supreme convert.  His brother-in-law is
licensed to install R12 and he told me that believe it or not Auto-Zone
still has R12.  Probably an Autozone in Indy, as he's planning to
reinstall the a/c on his car.  Just needs to get all the parts, like
compressor et al.

Chris Smetana
(electricity less in) Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

>----------
>From: 	David L Wyatt[SMTP:WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com]
>Sent: 	Tuesday, June 30, 1998 10:14 AM
>To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: 	Re: AC conversion
>
>According to a couple of mechanics I have spoken with, the kit is not
>necessary in most GM cases.
>Just drain out most of the old oil when doing the conversion and replace it
>with the proper new oil and new fittings.  Seals and other items are useable
>as is.  A new dryer may be installed , but not necessary.
>Check around with some of your local shops as this is a common upgrade.  I
>was
>quoted $300 to do the complete job.  That seemed steep for my $600 Malibu
>wagon work/race/truck car, but it may be reasonable for a nice car.
>
>Just my $.02
>Dave Wyatt
>70  4-4-2
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:24:37 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: Oldsmobile Nationals

July 15-18, Wed to Sat.
As soon as I get the W-31 running I will drive it.  Hopefully if all
goes well, including getting power to the house back (storms knocked it
out last night) I may have it running over the fourth weekend.

Chris Smetana
(electricity less in) Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

>----------
>From: 	JCRASH7@aol.com[SMTP:JCRASH7@aol.com]
>Sent: 	Tuesday, June 30, 1998 10:15 AM
>To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: 	Re: Oldsmobile Nationals
>
><< Is anyone taking there car down to Springfield for the Olds Nationals?
> Just wondering. >>
>
>When is that, anyway?  I'll be down close to there Friday untill I go up to
>Lansing.
>
>Joe Sherbanenko
>84 Delta 88 Royale Brougham Coupe
>88 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
>http://www.oldsmobile.home.ml.org
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:26:20 -0500
From: "Eichten, Brent" <Brent.Eichten@westgroup.com>
Subject: A/C Blower Problems

I have a 71 Cutlass Supreme with A/C and have been having problems with
the blower fan.  When the fan is turned on, it makes a loud squealing
like it needs to be lubricated.  If I turn it off and turn it back on,
sometimes it goes away and works fine.

Is there anywhere to lubricate the blower motor or do I need to replace
the motor?  How big of a project is this?  I was looking at it last
night and it looks like getting to the blower is going to be a real
nightmare!!  Are the blower motors available in parts stores?

Brent Eichten
1971 Cutlass Supreme
brent.eichten@westgroup.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:33:34 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: RE: AC conversion

Even though R-12 is still available, it is very expensive at the moment.  To
completely recharge a system with R-12  it would cost all most as much as
converting to 134.  Then if the R-12 leaked off you would still have a huge
cost replacing the R-12 as compared a minimal cost of replacing the 134 stuff.
The old "pay me now or pay me later" deal which in this case is "pay me now
and pay me again when the R-12 goes bye bye".  Given the choices I would go
ahead and upgrade to the less expensive refrigerant because you will likely
have to do it sooner or later.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2 (with 260 air)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:39:10 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: AC conversion

Good point.  And he didn't mention what the cost for the R12 was and I
didn't think to ask.  I was just surprised it was still at AutoZone of
all places.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

>----------
>From: 	David L Wyatt[SMTP:WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com]
>Sent: 	Tuesday, June 30, 1998 10:33 AM
>To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: 	RE: AC conversion
>
>Even though R-12 is still available, it is very expensive at the moment.  To
>completely recharge a system with R-12  it would cost all most as much as
>converting to 134.  Then if the R-12 leaked off you would still have a huge
>cost replacing the R-12 as compared a minimal cost of replacing the 134
>stuff.
>The old "pay me now or pay me later" deal which in this case is "pay me now
>and pay me again when the R-12 goes bye bye".  Given the choices I would go
>ahead and upgrade to the less expensive refrigerant because you will likely
>have to do it sooner or later.
>
>Dave Wyatt
>70  4-4-2 (with 260 air)
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 11:02:25 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: Parts for sale

Since I've had several people email me asking what parts of my 4-4-2 I
have for sale I thought I would send out an email.

66 cutlass passenger taillight assembly
67 supreme taillight set

from my 69 4-4-2 parts car I have the following:
red dash pad, faded no cracks
complete p/s setup: column, box, pump and pulley
red a/c kick panels
a/c setup on the firewall, no compressor
rear quarter windows from holiday coupe, driver side has chrome still on
it
chrome headliner retaining strips
rear seat, both back and bottom from holiday coupe
I also have a few other misc items from this car which I can't recall at
this moment.

asking prices and more details are on my web page
http://www.abcs.com/chris  then go to autoparts for sale

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 12:09:07 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: AC conversion

Chris:

Sure R-12 is still available all over the place. I saw it at Sam's Club.

If you can afford it. 20 # tank for a measly $459.00.
Think I'll buy two.

Mark
75 Delta 88 Conv

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 11:08:53 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Re: AC conversion

David L Wyatt wrote:
>
> According to a couple of mechanics I have spoken with, the kit is not
> necessary in most GM cases.
> Just drain out most of the old oil when doing the conversion and replace it
> with the proper new oil and new fittings.  Seals and other items are useable
> as is.  A new dryer may be installed , but not necessary.
> Check around with some of your local shops as this is a common upgrade.  I 
was
> quoted $300 to do the complete job.  That seemed steep for my $600 Malibu
> wagon work/race/truck car, but it may be reasonable for a nice car.
>
> Just my $.02
> Dave Wyatt
> 70  4-4-2


To just make the system work, then all you need to do is drain, flush
and refill - however if you want your system to last more than a year
you need the following.

A new style POA valve
A new expansion valve
A R-134A compliant drier
R-134A compliant hoses
& new seals.

We are doing these conversions quite regularily here in Dallas with
great results.
If you do not change all of the above parts, they will deteriate in
about a years time.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 12:21:07 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: AC conversion

Dave:

 Obviously its going to be cheaper in the long run to convert. Instead
of trying to keep using R-12.
I'm just wondering the best/cheapest<G> way to go. Just a conversion
kit, A blue light special @ $30 which includes 3 cans of 134a and a can
of oil plus new fittings. Or bite the bullet and replace the whole works
for $$$?
You also have to take into consideration I don't know jack about ac
systems. If I go the cheap route how do I drain the old oil?

tia

Mark
75 Delta 88 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 12:22:49 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: AC conversion

Steve:

You left out the most important part.

What is the price?

Mark
75 Delta 88 Conv

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 13:17:05 EDT
From: <Oldsparts@aol.com>
Subject: Re:street racing/Soffsealvs.Metro/Jonathan Parke

Street racing:  Practiced only by retards or the occasional idiot.  Lost a few
friends this way-not to mention the innocent parties...JUST DON'T DO IT!

Soffseal VS. Metro:  For many years we did not sell or use Metro's products,
due to their poor quality rubber.  However,  they have changed formulas in
recent years and now supply only EPDM, an environmentally protected ozone
resistant compound that should outlast us all.  Metro offers a couple of
quality levels.  Be sure you are buying their "Gold Series" weatherstrips.
They are of vastly superior quality when compared to most Soffseal componants.
You will get a much better fit with the Metro in almost every
instance/application.  We sell only the "gold series" weatherstrips and now
offer a LIFETIME WARRENTY on them.  The package indicates a 15 year warrenty,
but we are standing behind them for life.  If you don't want to have to re-
align your doors, windows,etc., use the Metro.  Their fit and quality simply
can't be beat.  We buy Metro in HUGE increments, and have some of the best
pricing in the nation on their products.

Jonathan Parke:  Glad to hear your alive and well!

Sincerely For Oldsmobiles
Steve Kenny
Brothers Automotive Products
800-442-PART (7278)
For very best names in mechanical parts at the very lowest prices, see the
catalog at WWW.OLDSPARTS.COM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 13:32:26 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Loss of brake fluid

In a message dated 98-06-30 06:50:07 EDT, you write:

<<  am totally confused about the loss of my brake fluid.  My brakes went out
 in my 71 cutlass Friday. The fluid was half full in the bowl for my front
 disk brakes. I filled it up and starting pumping the brakes to find were the
 leak was. No leak appeared and the fluid was still full. So were did the
 fluid loss come from and why doesn't it happen again?
  >>

Check the bleeder valve on the calipers. Might be open a smidgen, maybe that's
why your bowl was omly half full.
Bruce

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 13:37:02 EDT
From: <BrKLynS@aol.com>
Subject: LOOKING FOR 64 CUTLASS PARTS-IM DESPERATE-NEED 64 CUTLASS PARTS

IM LOOKINHG FOR PARTS FOR A 64 OLDS CUTLASS-WHATEVER YOU HAVE,JUST LIST THEM
AND THE PRICE.


                          THANK YOU ALL
                                    JOE

          64 CUTLASS

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:33:17 -0700
From: Eric Spence <ericsp@mail.ocis.net>
Subject: Re: street racing/Soffsealvs.Metro/Jonathan Parke

Do you carry these for an 81 Toro?

Oldsparts@aol.com wrote:

>  Metro offers a couple of quality levels.  Be sure you are buying their "Gold
> Series" weatherstrips.

> We sell only the "gold series" weatherstrips and now
>



> Steve Kenny
> Brothers Automotive Products
> 800-442-PART (7278)
> For very best names in mechanical parts at the very lowest prices, see the
> catalog at WWW.OLDSPARTS.COM



- --
Eric Spence
ericsp@mail.ocis.net
Kamloops, BC, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 12:47:14 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: LOOKING FOR 64 CUTLASS PARTS-IM DESPERATE-NEED 64 CUTLASS PARTS

Hey Joe you don't have to YELL so loudly.
Brett

- -----Original Message-----
From: BrKLynS@aol.com <BrKLynS@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, June 30, 1998 12:35 PM
Subject: LOOKING FOR 64 CUTLASS PARTS-IM DESPERATE-NEED 64 CUTLASS PARTS


>IM LOOKINHG FOR PARTS FOR A 64 OLDS CUTLASS-WHATEVER YOU HAVE,JUST LIST
THEM
>AND THE PRICE.
>
>
>                          THANK YOU ALL
>                                    JOE
>
>          64 CUTLASS

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 12:43:50 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Re: AC conversion

Mark Hahn wrote:
>
> Steve:
>
> You left out the most important part.
>
> What is the price?
>
> Mark
> 75 Delta 88 Conv

Oops - I guess that is kinda important :)

Here's a breakdown

New style POA valve $90
R-134A compliant dryer $60
R-134A compliant hoses $30 (depending on application)
Seal kits - Napa $30
Expansion valve - $40

About $250 for parts, then you need to have system charged. That price
will depend on where and who you have do it.

We usually replace the compressor when we do our conversions, but most
of them needed it anyway. If your compressor is in good working
condition you can skip this. They are about $125 at Auto-Zone.

When I get the Cutlass back together - I will have replaced EVERYTHING
in my system, including the evaporator and condensor - I spent about
$800. If you are wondering why I did this - given the age of the car and
it's equipment and how much we run our A/C's in Texas, I just felt it
was an extra amount of insurance.


Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 12:47:44 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: electric choke hookup

I connected mine to the distributor (HEI, points does not have 12V at
dist) and it worked ok, but I had an annoying current drain when I was
cruising.  It would turn on, the off, Come to find out it was the choke
heating and cooling, causing a current drain enough to dim the lights in
the car just enough to be noticed at night on a dark road.

Make sure it is switched with the key, I have been amazed how many
people think that you can turn off the choke once the car is warm.  It
needs constant voltage when the car is running.  Or it will close, or
close early when the car is shut off and the vehicle heat starts to
cool.

The only time it should be off is if the engine dies unattended, then it
should turn off.  This will allow the choke to cool back down so
restarting is easy.  Else it will be wide open and cold start again will
be harder.  That is why the choke was normally connected to the oil
pressure line.  Not sure of the wiring there, but it did not work well
on my 85 when I tried that.  The oil light came on at idle then.

Yes, the fan should be a good source, as long as it is switched off when
the car is off.

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 12:52:00 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Oxygen sensor

On my 85 Cutlass with the 307 (Tubular Steel Manifolds) I was able to
get to it with a O2 sensor socket and long extensions.  On the same car
with the 350 and a 80-81 260 manifold (from the computer controlled era)
I can get it with an open end wrench.  7/8" I think.

Note:  I do not have the AIR system, this allows access to the sensor
from the side by AC.

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 13:49:40 EDT
From: <COUPEKING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: LOOKING FOR 64 CUTLASS PARTS-IM DESPERATE-NEED 64 CUTLASS PARTS

Joe
Have headlight doors and grille for '64 F85. Also headlight buckets. Very nice
condition. $75/all plus shipping.
Peter
San Pedro, CA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 13:55:40 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: More motor mounts (long)

...Since the BB is taller, the BB mounts hold it lower onto the frame, to
increase hood clearance....
________________

   Charlie,

   I can't speak for the G-body ('course, there were no factory big-block
   G-bodies anyway), but as far as the A-body is concerned the big block
   and small block mounts _put the crank centerline in the same place_.
   Period.

   Up until 69, the big blocks and small blocks used _the_ same part number
   for both the metal frame mount and the rubber motor mount.  In 69 for
   some reason, the 400 takes a different mount. I don't yet have proof,
   but I strongly suspect that for matched frame/motor mount sets, the
   height of the crank centerline is the same across the board for a given
   body.  The difference in the 69 and later mounts appears to be a change
   in the size of the rubber motor mount to accommodate a fail-safe design
   where the metal flages imbedded in the rubber will still retain the
   motor if the rubber fails.  The early mounts do not have this provision
   and as a result Chevy had a major recall in the 60s to install torque
   limiter straps on their cars.  Since the rubber mount is "taller" to
   accommodate this, the frame side mount must locate its cross bolt hole
   further down relative to the two top bolts to make up.  The net result
   is that the crank centerline height remains the same so long as the
   motor and frame mounts are matched.  The problem of motor height
   differences comes when we mix and match frame and motor mounts.

   As corroborating evidence, consider 70 W-30 and W-31.  The OAI adapters
   on these cars are the same, however the foam to seal the adapter to the
   hood is about 1" taller on the W-31 version.  This tells me that the
   crank centerline (and thus the motor mount installed height) is the same
   for the big and small blocks, with the difference being an inch in the
   carb flange (as you would expect).  Also consider that only the big
   blocks needed the "notched" valve covers to clear the brake booster and
   A/C box - again due to the taller deck height of the big block.  If the
   big block motor mounts really did lower the motor in the frame, these
   changes would not be necessary.  In addition, the oil pan would sit one
   inch closer to the crossmember - which it doesn't - and the transmission
   would either be tilted or the driveshaft would be lower - which is
   isn't.

   The bottom line is that in factory installations, the big block's carb
   flange (Toro manifolds excepted) and valve covers sit about one inch
   higher than those of a small block.  It was designed this way and will
   always be this way unless creative motor mount swapping is employed.

++++++++++++++
So, my conclusion is this.  When retaining the ~vehicle's~ factory mounts
(upper
and lower) the Big Block will have it's crank, bell housing bolts, and
water
pump (and fan) in exactly the same location as the Small Block did.  The
intake
and heads are in different spots, so air cleaner/hood clearance will become
an
issue, as will exhaust routing.  Since the bell housing hasn't moved,
neither
has the front of the tranny.  So, neither has the rear.  So, no adjustment
should be needed at all.
_______________

   This is exactly correct.  Use the mounts (frame and motor) for the car
   and a big block will bolt in place of a small block like it grew there.
   Just be aware that the valve covers and carb flange will sit higher.

++++++++++++++++
Now, if you retain the Big Block's original mounts into the the Small
Block's
vehicle, the entire block will sit lower.  Including crank, waterpump, fan,
and
bellhousing....
________________

   Nope, you shoulda quit here.  Again, the P/N for big and small block
   mount is the same up until 1969, when GM started to phase in the
   "interlocking" motor mounts which were taller.  A better rule of thumb
   is not to mix and match what I call "tall" and "short" motor and frame
   mounts.  As far as the A-bodies are concerned, the "short" mounts (with
   non-interlocking rubber motor mounts) run about 1.6" from the top two
   bolts to the cross bolt on the frame mount.  The "tall" (interlocking)
   mounts run about 2 3/4" from the top bolts to the cross bolt.  Using
   early (short) motor mounts on later (tall) frame mounts will place the
   motor too low in the car.  In fact, I'm not even sure if you can bolt
   them up.  Even within the short and tall families, the frame mounts
   differ in the shape of the raised section - this again can prevent
   certain combinations from fitting.  I'm still trying to compile the
   master list of motor mount dimensions (Thanks to all who've
   contributed).

   Does anyone have a post-1969 parts book?  I'd like to find out if the
   later cars also used the same P/N mounts on big and small blocks.

++++++++++++++++

So, "in conclusion," my ~professional~ ASE Master Certified, mostly
brain-fried,
recommendation is to stick with the ~vehicle's~ original mounts.
Nuff said?
__________________

   YES!

   Joe Padavano
   padavano.joe@orbital.com

   66 442
   68 W-30
   69 H/O
   70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 14:09:07 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Loss of brake fluid

I am totally confused about the loss of my brake fluid.  My brakes went out
in my 71 cutlass Friday. The fluid was half full in the bowl for my front
disk brakes. I filled it up and starting pumping the brakes to find were
the
leak was. No leak appeared and the fluid was still full. So were did the
fluid loss come from and why doesn't it happen again?
===========================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
_________________

Sam,

Two thoughts.  First, disc brakes, by definition, will appear to use brake
fluid as the pads wear.  The reason for this is that as the pads wear, the
pistons must move further out of the calipers to make up for it.  Unlike
drum brakes, which use the screw-driven self adjuster mechanism to take up
shoe wear, the piston remains in this "further out" position (otherwise
excessive pedal travel would be required to get the pads to contact the
rotor).  Since the system is sealed, brake fluid must be drawn out of the
master cylinder reservoir to backfill the piston.  This gives the illusion
that the system is losing brake fluid (that's why the reservoir for the
front discs is substantially larger than the one for the back drums).  When
you replace the pads on the fronts, you must force the pistons back into
the calipers.  This will return the "lost" fluid back to the master
cylinder.  Be careful, since if you've added fluid previously you may
overflow the master cylinder when you compress both calipers' pistons.  It
is sometimes necessary to remove some of the brake fluid before compressing
the pistons.

Second thought.  I had an unusual failure mode in my truck, where one
reservoir of the master cylinder would continually lose fluid while the
other was always full.  It actually turns out that there was an internal
leak between the front and rear pistons in the master cylinder and fluid
was actually being forced from one reservoir through the master cylinder
into the other.  Had to replace the master cylider last weekend.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 14:12:55 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: rear disc(my two bits-Again!)

Cum-aro's never came with rear disc before some time in the mid to late
80s.
Trans Ams however were disc'ed in 79.
__________________

Try the 1969 Z-28 with the optional Corvette rear discs.  And please clean
up your act.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 13:30:36 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: RE: Adios

You wrote -

Date: Sun, 28 Jun 1998 18:37:38 -0400
From: urbanch <urbanch@magi.com>
Subject: RE: Adios

- - ------ =_NextPart_000_01BDA2C3.E49786A0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

yahoo! But is this where you sit back pretend your off the list and watch if
anyone is talking about you again?

- - ------ =_NextPart_000_01BDA2C3.E49786A0
Content-Type: application/ms-tnef
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64

eJ8+IgcWAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAEIgAcAGAAAAElQTS5NaWNy
- ----------
- ----------
Holy cow!! It's been sooooooo long since we've heard from you that I thought 
you
had died or something. Was wondering where to send the flowers.

I see you still haven't found how to turn off the encoding and bitmap garbage
that your messages are always wrapped in.

Just thought I'd get me 2 cents in regarding the noise to usable content ratio.
- --
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 14:19:34 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: A/C Blower Problems

I have a 71 Cutlass Supreme with A/C and have been having problems with
the blower fan.  When the fan is turned on, it makes a loud squealing
like it needs to be lubricated.  If I turn it off and turn it back on,
sometimes it goes away and works fine.
Is there anywhere to lubricate the blower motor or do I need to replace
the motor?  How big of a project is this?  I was looking at it last
night and it looks like getting to the blower is going to be a real
nightmare!!  Are the blower motors available in parts stores?
Brent Eichten
_________________

Brent,

On several occasions in the past, I've found that this squealing noise is
actually due to the fact that the fan has come loose on the motor shaft.
Unfortuantely, as you have surmised, it's a b*tch to get at the motor in
either case.  Unless you want to cut a hole in your inner fender, the hood
and right side fender have to come off to get at it.  You MIGHTASWELL throw
a new motor in even if it is just a loose fan, since you don't want to do
this again.  I don't know about auto parts stores, but Northern Auto Parts
(www.naparts.com) has the motors for <$20.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 14:03:27 -0500
From: "Kijowski, Stan" <SKIJOWSKI@midland.com>
Subject: RE: electric choke hookup

i am in the process of putting an electric choke on my 72 cs conv.  i have
been reading the threads and everyone says to hook the choke into a keyed
circuit. my first thought is to hook it into the "acc" fuse. good or bad?
next question: what do you think of hooking the choke into the output of
alternator?

> ----------
> From: 	Thomas Martin[SMTP:Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Tuesday, June 30, 1998 12:47 PM
> To: 	'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject: 	RE: electric choke hookup
>
> I connected mine to the distributor (HEI, points does not have 12V at
> dist) and it worked ok, but I had an annoying current drain when I was
> cruising.  It would turn on, the off, Come to find out it was the choke
> heating and cooling, causing a current drain enough to dim the lights in
> the car just enough to be noticed at night on a dark road.
>
> Make sure it is switched with the key, I have been amazed how many
> people think that you can turn off the choke once the car is warm.  It
> needs constant voltage when the car is running.  Or it will close, or
> close early when the car is shut off and the vehicle heat starts to
> cool.
>
> The only time it should be off is if the engine dies unattended, then it
> should turn off.  This will allow the choke to cool back down so
> restarting is easy.  Else it will be wide open and cold start again will
> be harder.  That is why the choke was normally connected to the oil
> pressure line.  Not sure of the wiring there, but it did not work well
> on my 85 when I tried that.  The oil light came on at idle then.
>
> Yes, the fan should be a good source, as long as it is switched off when
> the car is off.
>
> Thomas Martin
> 85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
> 91 Bonneville LE 3800
> 80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 15:19:21 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Intake

In a message dated 98-06-29 22:58:02 EDT, you write:

<<  Near the thermostat is :   A4
 It has the hole for an EGR .It also has hole for choke tube.

 Does any one out there know what it came on.?
 I still have to dig out that J-2. >>

My understanding is that this is the "A4" aluminium intake which may be found
on '85 - era 307's (or whatever the small block was at the time).

This, like most other Olds small block intakes (except the 260!) _should_ bolt
right onto 350, 330....

There is also an "A5" aluminium intake.
I do not know what they came on.

Nut it does not matter 'cause they suck.
Or rather, they do not. Or not enough.

Whearas "A4" passages are nice and big (good), the "A5" passages are more
restricted.

And this led to to the following "Witt"-icism;

"A4 - gimme more! A5 - 's just jive."

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 15:17:57 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: RE: electric choke hookup

i am in the process of putting an electric choke on my 72 cs conv.  i have
been reading the threads and everyone says to hook the choke into a keyed
circuit. my first thought is to hook it into the "acc" fuse. good or bad?
next question: what do you think of hooking the choke into the output of
alternator?
______________

If you're talking about the wire that goes from the alternator to the
battery (via the junction block), it won't work, as this wire always has
12v on if from the battery.  The choke would always be hot, and thus open.
Someone else noted that later model cars use the other wire from the
alternator (the brown one, I think) that runs the GEN light on the dash.
This wire has 12v when the engine is running (well, when the alternator is
working) and 0v when it's not.  Use a relay to isolate the circuit.  The
only downside of this is the failure mode where the alternator belt breaks
or the alternator goes bad and you're still driving on the battery to get
home.  Without the 12v on this brown wire, your choke will close and the
car will stall (eventually).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 15:44:40 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <jlabay@ee.net>
Subject: which vinyl dye is best?

I am going to die the green interior of my 72 Supreme black so it better 
matches
the blue paint job it will get soon. Any advice on what is the best dye out
there? I bought some dupli-color dye from Autozone and got a few trim pieces
done.  Not bad stuff but it is already starting to chip off in places.

Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500.....Vortec 350, A4, 4.10
80 Olds 442 W-30........350, A3, 2.73
75 Hurst/Olds W-25.....350, A3, 2.56
72 Cutlass Supreme.....drag car project

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 15:42:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: MAILER-DAEMON@merge1.mergetel.com (Mail Delivery Subsystem)
Subject: Returned mail: User unknown

The original message was received at Tue Jun 30 15:42:27 EDT 1998
from  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

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Final-Recipient: RFC822; lee@merge1
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Return-Path: <oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca>
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<000b01bda45f$87416460$3458bed1@default> From: "Jason P. Labay" 
<jlabay@ee.net>
To: "Oldsmobile Mailing List" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca> Subject: which vinyl
dye is best? Date: 	Tue, 30 Jun 1998 15:44:40 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; 	charset="koi8-r" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 
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Small Fry X-SBRule: Pass-No Pattern Matching

I am going to die the green interior of my 72 Supreme black so it better 
matches
the blue paint job it will get soon. Any advice on what is the best dye out
there? I bought some dupli-color dye from Autozone and got a few trim pieces
done.  Not bad stuff but it is already starting to chip off in places.

Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500.....Vortec 350, A4, 4.10
80 Olds 442 W-30........350, A3, 2.73
75 Hurst/Olds W-25.....350, A3, 2.56
72 Cutlass Supreme.....drag car project

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 14:52:25 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: AC conversion

Stephen Hoover <shang@wans.net> on 06/30/98 11:08:53 AM

Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca


To:   oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
cc:

Subject:  Re: AC conversion




Stephen Hoover wrote:
>To just make the system work, then all you need to do is drain, flush
>and refill - however if you want your system to last more than a year
>you need the following.

>A new style POA valve
>A new expansion valve
>A R-134A compliant drier
>R-134A compliant hoses
>& new seals.

>We are doing these conversions quite regularily here in Dallas with
>great results.
>If you do not change all of the above parts, they will deteriate in
>about a years time.

Thanks for the clarification on this.  As I said, I was quoted a $300 price to
convert the system on my M*libu which was half of the purchase price.  The
other fellow I spoke with was a mechanic/used car dealer who recommended the
cheaper approach of swapping oil and refrigerant.  Needles to say, I drive the
M*libu with the windows down for now since I have not decided if I will keep
it streetable or make it a strip only car in the future.  It makes no sense to
upgrade the AC if I end up removing it. (Olds content) The M*libu will be
sacrficed in order to save the Olds from becoming a strip only car.   Besides,
aren't all ch*vies sacrificial lambs to the higher Olds gods?

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 14:58:44 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: which vinyl dye is best?

Jason,
Did you clean those trim pieces thoroughly?  I bought a pair of kick
panels for my GTO several months back and the guy I got them from dyed
them black at no additional charge.  When I got them, the color was
peeling off on one.  So I told him and he said to send it back and he
would redo it.  Turns out there was some contamination which caused the
dye not to adhere to the plastic.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

I am going to die the green interior of my 72 Supreme black so it better
matches the blue paint job it will get soon.
Any advice on what is the best dye out there? I bought some dupli-color
dye from Autozone and got a few trim pieces
done.  Not bad stuff but it is already starting to chip off in places.

Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500.....Vortec 350, A4, 4.10
80 Olds 442 W-30........350, A3, 2.73
75 Hurst/Olds W-25.....350, A3, 2.56
72 Cutlass Supreme.....drag car project


>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 16:04:28 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: RE: which vinyl dye is best?

Jason,
Did you clean those trim pieces thoroughly?...
Chris Smetana
_______________

Vinyl dye has improved dramatically in the last 30 years, however as Chris
correctly points out, cleanliness is of the utmost importance.  All of the
auto paint manufacturers also sell vinyl dye.  Be sure to get the matching
etchant as well.  This product is wiped over the part to be dyed after a
thorough cleaning and etches the surface to ensure good adhesion.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 16:08:27 EDT
From: <DiscoOzzy@aol.com>
Subject: Re: rear disc(my two bits-Again!)

In a message dated 6/30/98 3:14:31 PM !!!First Boot!!!,
fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com writes:

<< I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but......

 Camaro (maybe only with the z28 option) could be had with rear discs in
 '69. >
Normally, I'd clam up and you wouldn't hear from me for at least a month after
making a bad call like that, but somehow I have found a deep sense of pride in
knowing that I never gave enough of a rat's ass to care what you could get
with a Cumaro. And it showed. I feel good knowing that I don't know jack shit
about Chevs.
And just so you all know, I don't think disc brakes are perfect. Why? BRAKE
DUST! Why have 4 clean wheels, when you can have four wheels that are pitted
from dust! peace,
Kerry

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 16:32:27 EDT
From: <GT5726@aol.com>
Subject: Re: mileage question

I was wondering the same...haha...I also want to install a better way of
judging fuel level,
besides a little orange needle swinging between "E" and "F"...maybe a weight
scale...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 16:34:19 EDT
From: <DiscoOzzy@aol.com>
Subject: Re: rear disc(my two bits-Again!)

<< And please clean
 up your act. >>

whatever.

I guess I'm sorry because I'm not the kind of guy that talks about the right
mix of black paint to use on my radiator. If I am a nuisance to anyone on this
list, E-mail me privately, and I'll take care of it.
Kerry

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 13:49:00 PDT
From: "David Popadic" <olds67cutlass@hotmail.com>
Subject: Vinyl Seats

Does anyone know if there a some type of repair kit for vinyl seats.  My
seats are in pretty decent shape except for a few minor tears.  I would
have to get them recovered just for that.

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 17:30:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Andrew A. Senko" <senko@reston.ans.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Limo / Ambulance / Hearse

Someone asked the question about whether Olds made a limo.  Olds made
ambulances and hearses for a few years, but by my records they only made
production limos in one year, 1968.

1968
Model 9840 = Ambulance
Model 9850 = Limousine
Model 9890 = Hearse

The Ninety Eight's that year had a model code in the 8400 or 8600 range.
Delta 88's were model 6400 or 6600.  So these "special" vehicles were not
exactly built on top of another Olds model, or at least the VIN's were
distinct.

If you see the limo again, try to get the VIN.  If I'm right, it should be
398508Mxxxxxx.  The "xxxxxx" is the build plant sequence number.  This VIN
also assumes the limo was built in Lansing.

1969
Model 9840 = Ambulance
Model 9890 = Hearse

1970
Model 9840 = Ambulance
Model 9890 = Hearse

1971
Model 8840 = Ambulance
Model 8890 = Hearse

I pulled this info from the VIN decoding pages on my website.  I'm on the
digest, and I don't get to read them all, so if you have questions, feel
free to send them to me directly.

- --                                                               _
Drew Senko                     1971 Oldsmobile                   |\
Vienna, VA, USA                Cutlass Supreme    .__====-_._____|_\______
senko@reston.ans.net             Convertible      [   ___  |-     |  ___  \
http://members.aol.com/drewinva                   =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)
______________________________________________________\_/____________\_/_____

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 16:47:28 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: rear disc(my two bits-Again!)

Kerry,

See...it's all about attitude.  I thought you were kind of funny at first,
but then you had to go knocking people who want to restore their car the
correct way, i.e. the dictionary definition of "restore"...and while I
don't personally have a problem with people writing the way they actually
talk, I don't run the mailing list, and I don't make the rules.

By the way, if Joe Padavano told me to paint my radiator green, I'd do it.
If you told me you were unsubscribing to the list, I wouldn't care either way.

See? Blunt, with no profanity (unless you count "blunt", of course...)

At 04:34 PM 6/30/98 -0400, you wrote:
>
><< And please clean
> up your act. >>
>
>whatever.
>
>I guess I'm sorry because I'm not the kind of guy that talks about the right
>mix of black paint to use on my radiator. If I am a nuisance to anyone on
this
>list, E-mail me privately, and I'll take care of it.
>Kerry
>
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons					Universal Internet Number 
(ICQ) - 3585737
 Solutions Provider			b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 Computer Approach			http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Work: 713-627-8588
									Home 
:	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
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 Houston, TX 77096-1114				(713) 318-5938	
- --------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 17:40:07 EDT
From: <GT5726@aol.com>
Subject: Re: rear disc(my two bits-Again!)

CHILLOUT!...I want dont want to read bitch sessions!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 17:47:41 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Last Comment: rear disc(my two bits-Again!)

Kerry (and all),

First, as my slowly progressing 66 convertible will hopefully attest to, I
appreciate well done modified cars as much as correctly-restored stockers.
As my turd of a 70 will attest to, I have a long way to go until all (or
for that matter, any) of my cars are completed.  And as my wife will attest
to, my language often leaves a lot to be desired in mixed company.  Maybe I
was a little short, but your creative takeoff on Camaro just struck me as
inappropirate and unnecessary.  I certainly harbor no affections for Type C
cars (other than as donors for 1LE brake rotors), but neither do I want to
see this list degenerate into something that looks like and F-body list.
Lets keep it civilized, please.

Whine mode off and sorry for the waste of bandwidth.  Let's please drop
this and get back to talking cars.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1340
*********************************
