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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1329


oldsmobile-digest       Thursday, June 25 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1329



Re: 85-88
Tick-Tock humor
Re: 85-88
Re: Greg's Need for Speed
RE: KREEN
Temp (cooling) questions
RE: Dave Emanuel Relies
RE: Summit Gaskets
big car show,MI
big car show,MI
Parts (Second request)
distributor help
Re: 85-88
Re: 307 Vin 9
HELP please... Headers for a 455 in a '72 convert
Re: Summit Gaskets
Re:  Temp (cooling) questions
Re: 307 Vin 9
Re: Oxygen sensor
Re: Turbo on 3.8V6
Re: Borla mufflers
Re: Temp (cooling) questions
Re: Temp (cooling) questions
Re: Summit Gaskets
Valley pan on performer intake
Re: Summit Gaskets
Re: Temp (cooling) questions
Re: Oxygen sensor
Stripping chrome from plastic?
Re: Stripping chrome from plastic?
Re: Stripping chrome from plastic?
rechrome plastic
RE: Temp (cooling) questions
Re: 85-88
Re: Parts (Second request)
Re: Summit Gaskets
Window tint
re: Question: Tilt Steering Wobble Side-to-Side
Re: Summit Gaskets
HELP please... Headers & Exhaust for a 455 in a '72 convert
Offset and backspacing
Rear end widths
Adj proportioning valve
aftermarket seat color selection...
Sport wheel horn button
Re: Sport wheel horn button
Re: aftermarket seat color selection...
Re: Stripping chrome from plastic?
Re: distributor help
Re: Temp (cooling) questions
Re: Stripping chrome from plastic?
Parts 4 Sale
RE: Summit Gaskets
Re: Sport wheel horn button

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 00:34:57 PDT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 85-88

Hi Jim,

You didn't say what application you were goin to use this for,
occassional weekend racing and touring, bypass emmissions, etc.  I have
seen dual gate y pipe that lets you bypass the cat and mufflers to a
short straight pipe.  I seem to recall it stated, "for highway and
racing use only."  Oh yeah, it also had a choke-like push/pull knob that
could be hard wired to open and close the gate from within the car.  I
don't have the info in front of me.  But if your interested, reply back
while I search.  Damn I read too much.

Later,

Chris Rivier
'66 Delta 88..."The Beast"
'88 Festiva..."Zippy"  162K+@ 40 mpg, neeed I say more.


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 01:42:47 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Tick-Tock humor

(sorry, no Tach on there!)

Our salesman came up to me today, apparantly excited about starting to finish
parting out his Toro.  Had the lock motor in hand, and wanted to know what was
involved in getting that in his 442.  Went on to talk about the clock...  
Really
excited about it.  "Chuck, you'll ~never~ believe it!  That clock stopped at,
~get this~ 4:55!!!"  I said, "No it didn't.  You're full of @$##"  No, I'm
serious, I'm ~not~ making this up!  I grabbed it, here!  <shows me clock...
says 5:13...Hmm.  Strange, I think...) "Oh crap, it musta changed on the way
here.  I ~swear~ it was at 4:55."  "It did ~not~ stop there, Tyler."  I kept
playing him for close to ten minutes.  Finally I gave it, and admitted the
wrongdoing...  Last time I was at his house checking out the car, I noticed the
clock was at something like 5:00.  That's wrong, I figure, so I crank 'er back
to 4:55!  (just to see if anyone would ~ever~ notice!)  Oh, the look on his 
face
as he was trying to convince me that it ~actually~ stopped there!  :)  So, I
grab the clock from him, zip it back to 4:42, and hand it back.  "There!"  :)

He gave me the clock.  I guess he'd had enough...  Heh heh!
- --
The Oldsmobile Magnet -- Charley Buehner@Sidney Montana
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com or mailto:charley@rocketship.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner  -- Oldsmagnet Homepage
OldsList Vital Info: http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 04:14:02 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 85-88

I think you are referring to the exhaust cutout sold by J. C.Whitney.
Summit and Jegs sells them to, but no cable, they use wing nuts

I asked my mechanic about a set for my car so I could run open pipes at the
track. He told me they were illegal inPennsylvania, but as long as he didn't
hear any exhaust leak he would look the other way for state inspection.
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 01:25:35 PDT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Greg's Need for Speed

Hi my name is Greg and I have a need for speed,

Hi Greg.

Similar dilemma happened with one of my cousins.  I remember well, I was
just a kid helping him work on his harem of bikes.  It all started with
a Honda 65. Black, wind in hair, and  a stamped steel frame.  Then he
moved up to a Honda 750F, KZ900, Katana 1100, and Goldwing.  But my
favorites were his Triumph Bonneville and Trident 750.  Yep, I saw it
happen...his need for speed.

He used to be a hell of a drag bike and later road racer.  But then, he
snapped, no one could explain it....he got married and had kids.  Now he
Motocrosses for fun.  He occassionally rides on the street, but swears
up and down discouraging others from doing so.  Too many nutcases on the
street he says.

Moral:  Drive and ride aware and be safe.  Be careful out there.........
            WE LOVE YOU MAN!

Later,

Chris Rivier
'66 Delta 88..."The Beast"
'88 Festiva..."Zippy"  162K+@ 40 mpg, neeed I say more.


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 01:29:00 PDT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: KREEN

what CLEAN.  Stay away from it man.

Later,

Chris Rivier
'66 Delta 88..."The Beast"
'88 Festiva..."Zippy"  162K+@ 40 mpg, neeed I say more.


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 04:46:15 -0400
From: Pat McDermott <koloth@iglou.com>
Subject: Temp (cooling) questions

Hello all,
I haven't posted here for quite some time, mainly because I hadn't been
fooling with the Olds much.
A little up date:
Last summer I put an Edelbrock intake and a holley 4Bbl 650 carb. on my
69 Cutlass 350 (formerly a 2Bbl). Seemed to run better. Winter moved in
before I had driven it 300 miles
At the beginning of this spring I drove it a few times and it ran ok,
not great but ok.
I put in a gauge package and the temp was about 180-190 after driving
for about 45min. between 50 & 70mph.  About 2 weeks ago I switched to
HEI, I also flushed and filled the radiator. I used 2 gal. of
anti-freeze, 1 bottle of the Redline WaterWetter stuff and filled it the
rest of the way with water.
When I took it on the road test at about
10 min it was at 180
20 min it was at 200-205
30 min it was at 220-225
as it approached 230 I kicked on the heater (none to fun when it's 90)
It backed off to 225 again and would stay there as long as I had the
heat on , when I turned it off it would move up again.
I have a 160 thermostat in it, I just replaced the FanClutch. The oil
pressure is good and I didn't turn the AC on at all.
What temp should it run at?
What can/should I do?
Any help, as always will be greatly appreciated.

Pat McD
69 Convertible Cutlass S
Ky.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 06:39:49 -0400
From: "Angel Castrodad" <angleki@prtc.net>
Subject: RE: Dave Emanuel Relies

Sorry that this is going on the list but the messages in question do not
have a private Email.

Man, What a waste of bandwith!!!! Even if you put all 6 messages in one,
they wouldn't be worth the bandwith.

GREG!!!!!!!!!!!!!  :-O

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of OJUNEBUGGO@aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 1998 11:26 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Dave Emanuel Relies
>
>
> Youve got an Eagle eye!
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 06:46:41 -0400
From: "Angel Castrodad" <angleki@prtc.net>
Subject: RE: Summit Gaskets

Speaking of gaskets, I'm told that I can't use a valle tray with an
Edelbrock Performer manifold. I knot that I can use one for the Performer
RPM, though. Can anyone tell me opinions on the best gaskets for this
application?

TIA,

Angel Castrodad
angleki@prtc.net

86'442--->> 307/5A/TH-350/3.73

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of RANDY A GEISEL
> Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 1998 9:49 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Summit Gaskets
>
>
>
> >  Footnote at bottom (**) intake gasket
> >not included.  Only one application had the ** on it.  It ~wasn't~ on the
> Olds!
>
> I just bought the Fel-Pro set from Summit last week (part #
> FEL-KS2613) and
> it does NOT come with an intake gasket.
>
> You're still going to have to fork out another $23 to $29.00 (depending on
> motor and year) for a Fel-Pro Valley Pan or $16.00 bucks for a Mr.Gasket
> composite intake gasket.
>
> Just a warning.
>
> Mr. Gasket engine overhaul kit is $27.99, part #7140, also has  everything
> but intake gasket. Is Fel-Pro $20.00 better? I thought the intake
> gasket was
> included with the Fel-Pro set or I would have used the Mr. G set again. I
> haven't had any problems with the Mr. G set on my 350. I not questioning
> Fel-Pro quality, I've used them allot, just the price difference.
>
> Randy
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 03:50:37 PDT
From: "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
Subject: big car show,MI

HI all is anybody going to the big car show in St ignace MI
that i can get a ride with? my olds is ript down and i don't have a ride
up there,ill be more than happy to help pay for anything,
if you need more info on the car show just email me.
Thanks
      Ryan.

  My  -------   -------
            /  |
           /   |
          /     ------
         /            |
        /             |
       /        ------    DELTA 88
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 03:56:34 PDT
From: "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
Subject: big car show,MI

>>i live in three oaks MI
>  My  -------   -------
>            /  |
>           /   |
>          /     ------
>         /            |
>        /             |
>       /        ------    DELTA 88
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 03:07:36 -0700
From: Mr Ada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Parts (Second request)

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
- --------------B542D2962055E7C7AC1251DB
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Does anyone have any of the following parts for sale:

a) 1968 442/Cutlass light housing rubber weatherstripping?  It seemingly
   attaches in between the metal light housing support and the gray plastic

   housing while surrounding the metal part on top so that the hood is
   protected from the screws holding the plastic part in place.  It runs
   the span of the eyebrow.

b) 1968 Cutlass Supreme/Delmont cigarette lighter knob.  This knob looks
   like the platic bowtie (sorry folks for that description) found on the
   442s, however, it is metal instead.

TIA,

Chris Sparks



- --------------B542D2962055E7C7AC1251DB
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Message-ID: <358E2BCD.9411BAA1@catalina-inter.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 03:02:53 -0700
From: Mr Ada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Organization: "A" Willow Ware
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.04 [en] (X11; I; Linux 2.0.30 i586)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: oldslist <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Parts
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Does anyone have any of the following parts for sale:

a) 1968 442/Cutlass light housing rubber weatherstripping?  It seemingly

   attaches in between the metal light housing support and the gray
plastic
   housing while surrounding the metal part on top so that the hood is
   protected from the screws holding the plastic part in place.  It runs
the
   span of the eyebrow.

b) 1968 Cutlass Supreme/Delmont cigarette lighter knob.  This knob looks
like
   the platic bowtie (sorry folks for that description) found on the
442s,
   however, it is metal instead.

TIA,

Chris Sparks


- --------------B542D2962055E7C7AC1251DB--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 07:53:11 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: distributor help

Can someone walk me though taking out my distributor?  I have never done
this before and would like to take out my distributor to take it to the
speed shop to get it curved.

Thanks


===========================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
Cutlass403@ameritech.net
1971 Cutlass S 455
Westside! Chitown IL
===========================

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 08:57:57 -0400
From: Jim Hurd <jhurd@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: Re: 85-88

At 12:34 AM 6/25/98 PDT, you wrote:
>Hi Jim,
>
>You didn't say what application you were goin to use this for,
>occassional weekend racing and touring, bypass emmissions, etc.  I have
>seen dual gate y pipe that lets you bypass the cat and mufflers to a
>short straight pipe.  I seem to recall it stated, "for highway and
>racing use only."  Oh yeah, it also had a choke-like push/pull knob that
>could be hard wired to open and close the gate from within the car.  I
>don't have the info in front of me.  But if your interested, reply back
>while I search.  Damn I read too much.
>
>Later,
>
>Chris Rivier
>'66 Delta 88..."The Beast"
>'88 Festiva..."Zippy"  162K+@ 40 mpg, neeed I say more.
>

Chris,

        I've seen that setup too.  Wonder how well it seals/works.  I am
still running the stock single exhaust with a glass pack in place of the
stock muffler.  I still have to worry about E-Check (emissions), so I don't
know if I could get by with duals, even if they were stock, because they
weren't an option on my car.  I was looking for a pipe that I could put in
place of the cat, but still be able to swap the cat back in when I have to
do the emissions thing.




Jim H.
'87 Salon

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 08:05:57 -0500
From: "Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
Subject: Re: 307 Vin 9

Mike,

>I don't have anything newer than an 85 tech manual, where it DOES show
>the difference....Y engines had roller, where "9" engines did not.  If
>someone with an 86 or 87 service manual can check this out, we can put
>this baby to bed.


I have an '87 service manual, BUT have no idea what you're talking about.
<g> Don't know a whole lot about engine internals yet. I'm trying though.

Looked through the manual, and the only differences I can easily find
between 'Y' and '9' engines is the exhaust manifolds, cam, and valve
springs.

If you guys can tell me what to look for, I'll try looking it up.

- -Mark Tupper   1987 442
 mtupper@palacenet.net       http://www.cyberglyphs.com/442/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 09:13:49 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: HELP please... Headers for a 455 in a '72 convert

I've got a '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible.  I've had a 350 in it and about
7 or 8 years ago I tried putting Hooker headers on only to find out they
didn't fit (my knuckles sure took a beating, but at least Hooker took 'em
back... good PR).  I got discouraged and didn't try anything else.  Well I
understand a lot has happened with headers since then and now I'm about to
put a 455 in (nothing exotic, just a strong and reliable street motor) and
I'm curious about several things:

1)  What is the actual difference between a '72 convertible frame and
coupe/sedan frame?  I assume it's beefed up for the needed support.  Where
are the crucial differences located?

2)  What brand of headers are really good quality both in tube design and
metal gauge that would fit my circumstances?  Any cast ones out there like
Sanderson makes for Chevy?  I'm I better custom making them to fit my car?

3)  From all that I've read and heard headers can pickup 10-35 hp.  What's
a realistic figure?

4)  For my application (spirited daily driver plus long trips) are headers
less desirable?  Any compelling reasons to stay with a good set of stock
manifolds?

5)  I'm also looking into putting an H or X connection between the duals as
I've heard that picks up some extra torque.  Pros and Cons on this idea in
general and Pros and Cons on X vs. H?  Would it be reasonable to expect
that a connection like this will reduce to noise level because the sound
waves have a cancelling effect?  By the way I've got a TH700-R4 so that
will complicate things a bit.

6)  I'd like to run a flow through muffler to keep things moving, but I
don't want excessive noise.  Any suggestions?

TIA,  jp

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 09:03:29 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@leadbelt.com
Subject: Re: Summit Gaskets

I bought the Fel-Pro overhaul kit (for a 350) from Summit for about $35. At
the time, it was the only kit they had avail for my app. It did not includel
intake or carburetor to intake gasket.

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 10:05:08 EDT
From: <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  Temp (cooling) questions

I run a 160 thermostat also but in BB. On hot day car will hit 210 if not
moving for length of time. Start rolling and will drop back down to 180-200
range depending on traffic/speed.

Since temp higher after HEI instal perhaps timimg is too far advanced or
retarted which will make engine run hotter. See what
your timing is at 3000 rpm. Suspect this your problem since it
worked ok before your added HEI.
What do you have plugs gapped at?  HEI will allow greater gap would
suggest in the .055-.060 range.

Not uncommon for fan clutchs to be bad also even if new. Double check to make
sure that it doesn't free wheel too easy with engine off
Shld only get 1-2 revs any more and clutch may be bad.

My suggestions anyways.

Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 10:10:48 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: 307 Vin 9

- ----------
> From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
> To: INTERNET:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 307 Vin 9
> Date: Wednesday, June 24, 1998 11:25 PM
>
> I am confused.   I thought the 5A heads were regular cam, and the 7A
heads
> went with the roller cam.

Correct. Roller cam is with 7A heads only. In 85 and I think 86 there were
both roller and non-roller motors made, the non-roller going into 442's.

> My 7A heads have cast manifolds - although I see in the service manual it
> shows different exhaust manifolds for the Vin Y and Vin 9.

7A heads are supposed to have the welded tubular steel manifolds, and 5A
heads have cast iron. Apparently there are some 7A's with cast iron
manifolds too. Maybe GM ran out of the tubular types and substituted the
older cast units on some 7A headed motors. Or maybe they just stopped using
them. My 85 Y motor has tubular jobbies.

> I would like to answer the roller cam question once and for all.   Any
> ideas????

5A heads, standard lifters. 7A heads, roller lifters. Different blocks,
pistons. Both engine types can be VIN Y (Cutlass, Delta) or VIN 9 (442)
configurations.

I have learned all this by paying VERY close attention to 307 stuff here on
the list. If it's wrong, I'll blame my teachers.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 10:20:49 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Oxygen sensor

- ----------
> From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Oxygen sensor
> Date: Thursday, June 25, 1998 1:03 AM
>
> >    Is it true that oxygen sensors get "lazy" and need be replaced when
> > they have 50,000
>
> Partially true.  Yes, they do get lazy, and yes, "lazy" ~is~ actually the
proper
> term.  They generally cycle the signals several times a second.  The ECM
sees
> highs and lows constantly from the O2 sensor, and compensates
accordingly.  I
> believe the cutoff is ten cycles per second???
<snip>

I do believe you're confused here. The Oxygen sensor signal is constantly
fed to the computer. It doesn't 'cycle'. The computer reads it and adjusts
air/fuel ratio by pulsing the mixture control solenoid in the carb. The MCS
is cycled up to 10 times / sec.

> Fuel
> additives (lead substitutes, contaminates, etc.) can form deposits on the
O2
> sensor.  Any silicon agents allowed into the combustion process will form
> deposits, too.  Valve cover gaskets made from RTV, if not properly cured,
can
> contaminate an O2 sensor just from the vapors produced.  Smog conditions
and
> other environmental variables can also take their toll

All true. 50-60K is the recommended replacement interval AFAIK. And they're
a mother to get out of the exhaust pipe.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 09:42:27 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Turbo on 3.8V6

- ----------
> From: Andrew Metcalfe <ametcalf@ccs.carleton.ca>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Turbo on 3.8V6
> Date: Wednesday, June 24, 1998 11:22 PM
>
>
> I've got the 3.8L V6 on my 86 Ciera GT.  I was wondering if it would be
> very dificult to pull a turbo off a Grand National or Buick Regal and
> throw it in there.
>
> Is this the same 3.8L as they used in the Buicks?

The GN's V-6 is a highly modified heavy duty unit. The block, crank,
bearings, etc. are seriously beefed up to handle the extra power of the
turbo. The standard 3.8 wouldn't last a minute with a turbo.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 09:31:12 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@leadbelt.com
Subject: Re: Borla mufflers

Jason Adcock wrote:

>My vote: Borla stuff is expensive but worth it.  Like the saying goes: you
>get what you pay for...and that goes both ways (usually).
>

In response to my:
>>. I looked into Borlas. Great idea
>>--stainless steel. Pricey. Can't see paying for stainless mufflers unless
>>getting whole stainless exhaust system --- very pricey -- and simply not
>>avail for all apps.                                              ^^^^^^^
>>

Jason:

I couldn't agree with you more. I didn't say I didn't want Borlas. I can't
afford the system at present. And, I still don't think it makes sense to
just buy the mufflers.

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 10:34:51 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Temp (cooling) questions

If your timing is off too much (can't remember if its too far advanced or
retarded) it'll make you run hot. With HEI you can also open the spark plug
gap wider.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 10:48:46 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Temp (cooling) questions

re: plug gap

the spec. for my 75 350 is .080....now thats wide!

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 11:07:45 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Summit Gaskets

Hey Angel,

I'm curious as to why you can't use a valley pan on a Performer intake.
I've never looked at one, I have the Perf RPM on my 350.

Has anyone used the TorquePlus intake gaskets? There the ones with the
screen over the intake ports. The screens are supposed to atomize the mix
better. Jegs has them for $28.99.  Since I have the intake and heads off the
car right now I was thinking about trying them.

TIA,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 10:36:08 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Valley pan on performer intake

- -----Original Message-----
From: Angel Castrodad <angleki@prtc.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, June 25, 1998 6:43 AM
Subject: RE: Summit Gaskets


>Speaking of gaskets, I'm told that I can't use a valley tray with an
>Edelbrock Performer manifold. I knot that I can use one for the
Performer
>RPM, though. Can anyone tell me opinions on the best gaskets for this
>application?
>Angel Castrodad
>angleki@prtc.net
>
I read this in Mondello's catalog, which at the time said to use the
valley pan AND his gaskets, which just cover the ports.  The valley
pan is metal, and the port gaskets were some composite.  I glued it
all together, and the intake wouldn't fit!   The bolt holes wouldn't
line up.  The valley pan was ruined from all the glue and crap, so I
had buy another, and I just used it (using Felpro's instructions,
which include two different kinds of glue on the gasket pan).  It
works fine, I don't know why they say you can't use it.

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 11:34:24 EDT
From: <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Summit Gaskets

In a message dated 98-06-25 06:44:06 EDT, you write:

<<
 Speaking of gaskets, I'm told that I can't use a valle tray with an
 Edelbrock Performer manifold. I knot that I can use one for the Performer
 RPM, though. Can anyone tell me opinions on the best gaskets for this
 application?

 TIA,

 Angel Castrodad >>

Hmm... that's interesting, I've used the valley pan (turkey tray) type of
gasket with my Performer manifold on two occasions, and it worked fine for
me...

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 08:52:38 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Temp (cooling) questions

> I used 2 gal. of
>anti-freeze, 1 bottle of the Redline WaterWetter stuff and filled it the
>rest of the way with water.

sounds like you don't have enough water in there.
__
The old adage about "The early bird catches the worm", only serves
to prove, that the worm would have been better off if he stayed in bed .
                                                                :Lazarus Long

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 09:23:58 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Oxygen sensor

> Is it true that oxygen sensors get "lazy" and need be replaced
> when they have 50,000 or so miles on them?

Yup, although there's also an error code or two devoted to O2
sensor faults that you ought to be seeing occasionally as well.
Checked for stored codes recently?

> My mechanic informed me this was true and my 1986 Olds with the
> 307 V8 could benefit from a new oxygen sensor.

Why? What was the car in for?

> He said only use a GM sensor.

Oh, nonsense; Bosch for example makes nice replacements that even
come pre-gooped with anti-seize on the threads. I've put Bosch
replacements in an '82 Cutlass and a '93 SSEi and both were fine
(performance improved slightly; error codes vanished). Got them
on sale at Trak Auto for ~$20.

> Any suggestions?

Generally speaking, at 50K-60K it could well be due for a new one.
Save yourself some agony by buying the proper socket for removing
sensors; it comes with a cutout down the side to accommodate the
pigtail lead, and costs about $6 or so. (It also fits other sensors
and sending units as well.) You'll also need some socket wrench
extensions, one or two universal joints and a honking big ratchet
handle for leverage.

It might be a little easier to crack loose when the engine is hot,
if you can get access without burning yourself on the manifold.
(Cutlass: Hard; SSEi: Easy. :-)

Let the engine cool before fumbling around with trying to get the
new one in, so you can avoid cross-threading it by mistake.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 12:28:52 EDT
From: <Jon442@aol.com>
Subject: Stripping chrome from plastic?

Anyone know of a way to safely strip the chrome from the plastic dash plaque
that goes around the instruments? I am not going to have it rechromed, but I
need to strip it to the bare plastic.

Jon

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 12:42:20 -0400
From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: Re: Stripping chrome from plastic?

Jon442@aol.com wrote:
>
> Anyone know of a way to safely strip the chrome from the plastic dash plaque
> that goes around the instruments? I am not going to have it rechromed, but I
> need to strip it to the bare plastic.
>
> Jon


	Jon,
		Try  "fantastic" or "409"  they work good. I found out the 
hard way.

       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
          Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 W30 stick ~ Red (of course)

                              <mailto:drdecal442@aol.com>
                              <mailto:mcornea@ford.com>

            Visit <http://members.aol.com/drdecal442/mcr.html>

               See us at the OCA Nationals 7/15-7/18 in IL

            OCA# 4903
       	    OPC# 14
       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 12:57:09 EDT
From: <COUPEKING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Stripping chrome from plastic?

I think Jim Chermac tipped the list to using oven cleaner for this task. Used
it, and it works great.

Ventilated space, put the piece in an aluminum disposeable pan and spray it
on. Use an oven cleaner that does not require the oven be heated to work.
Wait. Wipe off. Reapply til mostly clear. Sand and prep for rechrome.

Peter
Coupeking

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 13:03:40 EDT
From: <Surmise@aol.com>
Subject: rechrome plastic

So after the chrome is off what do you guys put back on?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 13:07:18 -0400
From: "Wagner, John" <WagnerJo@pios.com>
Subject: RE: Temp (cooling) questions

Actually..if you read the info on the redline bottle..it states that
water transfers heat better than
anti-freeze. You really should only use about 15% antifreeze, the rest
water and the wetting stuff. If this is a race only car, delete the
antifreeze altogether. Be sure your using the right pressure cap for
your application, and the flow of water through the system is not too
fast !

John

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 13:27:31 EDT
From: <OJUNEBUGGO@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 85-88

In a message dated 98-06-25 03:36:22 EDT, you write:

<< crivier@hotmail.com (Chris Rivier) >>
im not jim but i am roger

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 13:31:22 EDT
From: <OJUNEBUGGO@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Parts (Second request)

sorry cant help you there

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 10:35:10 -0700
From: Erik Badzinski <erikreb@netbridge.net>
Subject: Re: Summit Gaskets

CRuper1@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 98-06-25 06:44:06 EDT, you write:
>
> <<
>  Speaking of gaskets, I'm told that I can't use a valle tray with an
>  Edelbrock Performer manifold. I knot that I can use one for the Performer
>  RPM, though. Can anyone tell me opinions on the best gaskets for this
>  application?
>
>  TIA,
>
>  Angel Castrodad >>
>
> Hmm... that's interesting, I've used the valley pan (turkey tray) type of
> gasket with my Performer manifold on two occasions, and it worked fine for
> me...
>
> Chris Ruper

Has anyone ever used the seperate valley pan and the intake gaskets?
I know when I tried using the Turkey Tray intake gasket (where it's all
one piece) it was a real SOB.  Could not get the gaskets to line up
right, ended up wasting the whole piece.  Went with the two piece kind,
but without the valley pan.

Erik B.
'72 Cutlass 'S'

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 10:38:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joe Padavano <joe_padavano@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Window tint

<<  Am I the only one bothered by this?  In what appears to be a classic
    case of the government over-specifying a requirement,  >>

>How would you like to be a cop stopping a car with a would-be felon with dark
>tinted windows?  How would you like to be an innocent driver of a car with
>dark tinted windows and have a nervous cop with a gun approaching you.
>Frankly, I don't have a problem with those regulations. (besides, if you have
>a cool car, don't you want everyone to know its YOU?)
>Bruce

Bruce, please go back and read the whole post.  I was _NOT_ criticising the
requirement on tint darkness.  My point was that by specifying 50/50 or 70/30
tint, you've over constrained the problem.  All you have to say is 50% tint,
as the other 50 is unnecessary.  The way the original message was written, the
author made it a point to say that the 50/50 or 70/30 numbers refered to the
amount of light blocked (first number) and the amount of light let through
(second number).  Pardon my smart-*ss response here, but if 50% of the light
is blocked, then you _must_ have 50% of the light allowed through (you _can't_
have 50/60 tint, for example), unless you've figured out a way to generate
energy from the tint.  It would be perfectly adequate to just say 50% tint or
70% tint.

Working for a company which often has the government as a customer, I was just
venting on the government's need to overcontrol specifications.

Sorry for the non-Olds digression here.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30
_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 10:41:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joe Padavano <joe_padavano@rocketmail.com>
Subject: re: Question: Tilt Steering Wobble Side-to-Side

Tom wrote:

>...The steering seems to be working fine, except the wobble is annoying.  If
>it doesn't get worse, is it OK to continue driving as-is?


Tom,

I had this problem on the tilt wheel on my 85 crewcab dually.  I finally had
to take the steering column apart to find that the pins on which the upper
part of the column pivots had backed out, causing the looseness.  I simply
pressed them back in and the column has been fine ever since.  Unfortunately,
it's a bear to get the column far enough apart to do that.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30



_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 12:48:54 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: Summit Gaskets

On my 67 I used the "valley-pan" part of the gasket and the felpro strip
gaskets.  the original valley pan on my 330 hits the exhaust cross-over of
the performer intake.  I screwed the valley-pan down in the original
location.  I don't remember the part numbers but the one piece valley pan
gasket set is very picky about it's angles (head to intake) so I cut the pan
out of it and bought the felpro strips.  It sounds rigged but it looks good
and keeps a lot of oil off the intake.
Brett Wilson
67 Cutlass Convertible.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Erik Badzinski <erikreb@netbridge.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, June 25, 1998 12:34 PM
Subject: Re: Summit Gaskets


>CRuper1@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> In a message dated 98-06-25 06:44:06 EDT, you write:
>>
>> <<
>>  Speaking of gaskets, I'm told that I can't use a valle tray with an
>>  Edelbrock Performer manifold. I knot that I can use one for the
Performer
>>  RPM, though. Can anyone tell me opinions on the best gaskets for this
>>  application?
>>
>>  TIA,
>>
>>  Angel Castrodad >>
>>
>> Hmm... that's interesting, I've used the valley pan (turkey tray) type of
>> gasket with my Performer manifold on two occasions, and it worked fine
for
>> me...
>>
>> Chris Ruper
>
>Has anyone ever used the seperate valley pan and the intake gaskets?
>I know when I tried using the Turkey Tray intake gasket (where it's all
>one piece) it was a real SOB.  Could not get the gaskets to line up
>right, ended up wasting the whole piece.  Went with the two piece kind,
>but without the valley pan.
>
>Erik B.
>'72 Cutlass 'S'

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 14:00:19 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: HELP please... Headers & Exhaust for a 455 in a '72 convert

Sent this several hours ago, but for some reason it didn't hit the list.
So here goes again...

I've got a '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible.  I've had a 350 in it and about
7 or 8 years ago I tried putting Hooker headers on only to find out they
didn't fit (my knuckles sure took a beating, but at least Hooker took 'em
back... good PR).  I got discouraged and didn't try anything else.  Well I
understand a lot has happened with headers since then and now I'm about to
put a 455 in (nothing exotic, just a strong and reliable street motor) and
I'm curious about several things:

1)  What is the actual difference between a '72 convertible frame and
coupe/sedan frame?  I assume it's beefed up for the needed support.  Where
are the crucial differences located?

2)  What brand of headers are really good quality both in tube design and
metal gauge that would fit my circumstances?  Any cast ones out there like
Sanderson makes for Chevy?  I'm I better custom making them to fit my car?

3)  From all that I've read and heard headers can pickup 10-35 hp.  What's
a realistic figure?

4)  For my application (spirited daily driver plus long trips) are headers
less desirable?  Any compelling reasons to stay with a good set of stock
manifolds?

5)  I'm also looking into putting an H or X connection between the duals as
I've heard that picks up some extra torque.  Pros and Cons on this idea in
general and Pros and Cons on X vs. H?  Would it be reasonable to expect
that a connection like this will reduce to noise level because the sound
waves have a cancelling effect?  By the way I've got a TH700-R4 so that
will complicate things a bit.

6)  I'd like to run a flow through muffler to keep things moving, but I
don't want excessive noise.  Any suggestions?

TIA,  jp

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 11:12:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joe Padavano <joe_padavano@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Offset and backspacing

Thomas Martin asked:

...So, as offset and backspacing are not the same, what are the definitions
of such?
___

Tom,

Backspacing is the dimension from the inboard edge of the rim to the backside
of the bolt flange of the wheel (the surface which mates to the axle flange).
Offset is the difference between the centerline of the rim and this same bolt
flange.  Zero offset is defined as the condition where the bolt flange is
exactly aligned with the center of the rim.  Negative offset is when the bolt
flange is further inboard than the centerline (ie, deep dish wheels), while
positive offset is when the bolt flange is further outboard than the
centerline (ie, most FWD car wheels).

Feeble attempt at ASCII art follows:

         Inboard |               | Outboard
                  \_____________/
                 |       |
  Backspacing----|<----->|
                         |
  Bolt Flange----------->|
                   ______|______
                  /             \
                 |               |



      Centerline of Rim->|
                         |
         Inboard |       |       | Outboard
                  \_____________/
                      |  |
  Negative Offset-----|<>|
                      |
  Bolt Flange-------->|
                   ___|_________
                  /             \
                 |               |



      Centerline of Rim->|
                         |
         Inboard |       |       | Outboard
                  \_____________/
                         |  |
  Positive Offset--------|<>|
                            |
  Bolt Flange-------------->|
                   _________|___
                  /             \
                 |               |


Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30


_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 11:05:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joe Padavano <joe_padavano@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Rear end widths

'67s aren't unique.  '66 & '67 10-bolts are the same, '65s and '64s, I
believe, though not the same fit with the same width. '68s & up are wider.
Help Padavano, is this correct?

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com
______

Kurt is correct.  The 64-67 rear ends are about an inch narrower than the
68-up units.  Note that the upper control arm attach points are slightly
different also (requiring different upper arms), as are the spring attachment
pads.  There are also several different flavors of axles, the Type C, Type B,
Type O and Type P.  While the internals are different, the whole axle housing
will swap as a unit.  Also be careful, as putting the wrong year housing in
your car (ie, 68-up in an early car) will cause the pinion angle to be wrong
due to the different upper arm attach points.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30


_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 11:10:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joe Padavano <joe_padavano@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Adj proportioning valve

...And second if you add an adjustable proport valve you will only be able to
reduce the press to the rear. You would have to remove the original and use
just the adjustable if you want to increase press. Now the question is Can
that be done? I dont really care about a brake light coming on after my foot
has slammed the floor anyway. SO can i take my proport valve out, tie the
front in and out together with a union and just use the adjustable one on the
rear. This is what ive been thinking i already bought the adjustable valve.
______

Yes, you're absolutely correct.  The proper way to install rear discs is to
remove the factory proportioning valve and install an adjustable unit in its
place.  As you also correctly point out, cars with the combination valve
(proportioning valve, brake warning light switch, and junction block all in
one housing) require this valve to be bypassed or replaced.  I wanted to
retain my warning light switch, so I used the configuration of the 69-70 cars
with the separate proportioning valve - just use the _drum_ brake junction
block from a 67-up car.  This allows you to retain the warning light switch
without any proportioning valve hardware.  Plumb the new adjustable valve in
series with the back brake line (the factory mounted a small cylindrical unit
under the master cylinder) and away you go.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 13:28:06 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: aftermarket seat color selection...

My '71 cutlass convertible is blue with pearl white interior.  The
seat covers are not original, but still kind of off white and getting
nasty looking.  The carpet, dash, and center console are all black.

I want to order a set of aftermarket bucket seat which a) recline! b)
hold you in your seat when cornering hard.

Here's the problem, color selection.  I can get the cheaper version in
plain white vinyl, but it won't be "pearl white", I can get custom
colored vinyl (expensive), or I could just get black cloth, which will
keep me from getting the wet circle on the back when I peel myself out
of my seats.  Or the black vinyl on the sides and back, with cloth on
the sitting parts.  I don't think black buckets will look too bad with
a white back seat because there is so much other black in the
interior, or will it look like shit?  I could make the whole interior
black, but without A/C in a convertible, that's a no-no.  Also the top
is white too.

Color coordinating challenged,

greg

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 11:39:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joe Padavano <joe_padavano@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Sport wheel horn button

also my dad just had his sprot wheel put on his car. the only problem is that
we cant get the horn button on the wheel the correct way. the rocket emblem is
upside down. we cant figure out how to get it on right side up. so what do we
do the get the button on the correct way???? help is appreciated

Thanks

Brent
________

I assume you've got the horn button properly lined up with the horn contact
ring when you try to snap it into place, so the problem is that the hub is on
the steering shaft upside down.  Of course, the hub only goes on one way due
to the plastic part of the turn signal cancelling cam if I remeber correctly,
so that must be on incorrectly as well.  Pull the hub off.  The post on the
cancelling cam should be at about the 10:00 position with the wheels straight
ahead.  In this position, you should also see a scribe mark on the very end of
the steering shaft that should be pointed upwards.  If not, you have a problem
elsewhere in the steering shaft - it's been taken apart and not reassembled
with the correct clocking.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30




_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 14:51:09 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Sport wheel horn button

> also my dad just had his sprot wheel put on his car. the only problem is that
> we cant get the horn button on the wheel the correct way. the rocket emblem 
is
> upside down.

I agree with Joe's comments, it COULD be the STEERING COLUMN itself is
out of kilter as far as clock position.  Another possibility, is that,
(I know this MIGHT sound far fetched) but the emblem itself inside the
vinyl part MAY be upside down.  There is an alignment tab notched into
the emblem to keep it righted, however, this MAY be a possible check.

I'm gonna go with gut instinct and think the steering column has been
disjointed and put together upside down, however.  Not a hard problem to
fix, just something that's a tad time consuming.  Just be careful with
that dust boot (near #5/#7 spark plug) on the shaft.  Don't want to tear
it, or grease will leak out.  Been there, done that.  Painful to replace
if it happens.

2 cents
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 13:54:45 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: aftermarket seat color selection...

What companies seats are you going to get?

- -Brett

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gregory Zimmerman <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
To: Olds list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, June 25, 1998 1:20 PM
Subject: aftermarket seat color selection...


>My '71 cutlass convertible is blue with pearl white interior.  The
>seat covers are not original, but still kind of off white and getting
>nasty looking.  The carpet, dash, and center console are all black.
>
>I want to order a set of aftermarket bucket seat which a) recline! b)
>hold you in your seat when cornering hard.
>
>Here's the problem, color selection.  I can get the cheaper version in
>plain white vinyl, but it won't be "pearl white", I can get custom
>colored vinyl (expensive), or I could just get black cloth, which will
>keep me from getting the wet circle on the back when I peel myself out
>of my seats.  Or the black vinyl on the sides and back, with cloth on
>the sitting parts.  I don't think black buckets will look too bad with
>a white back seat because there is so much other black in the
>interior, or will it look like shit?  I could make the whole interior
>black, but without A/C in a convertible, that's a no-no.  Also the top
>is white too.
>
>Color coordinating challenged,
>
>greg
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 14:57:58 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Stripping chrome from plastic?

> I think Jim Chermac tipped the list to using oven cleaner for this task. Used
> it, and it works great.

That works, as well as diluted muriatic acid (swimming pool acid).  This
works wonders.  Just pour in a bucket, of like 3 parts water to 1 part
acid, (safety tip, always add acid to the water, NEVER the other way
around) and drop the part in and let sit overnight.  It works pretty
well, and doesn't kill the plastic.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 15:14:13 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: distributor help

> Can someone walk me though taking out my distributor?  I have never done
> this before and would like to take out my distributor to take it to the
> speed shop to get it curved.

Ok, here's the deal.  Assuming you have the original points type, it's
pretty simple.  Do this before you start, however.  I'll exlplain why
later.  Find the TDC for #1 piston on the firing stroke.  (remove dist.
cap so you can see rotor)  The rotor should be lined up for firing #1
cylinder.  Once this is done, then remove the black lead from the (-)
side of the coil that goes to the distributor base.  Remove the vacuum
can hose connection, and then, with a distributor wrench, or long
extension, a 9/16" socket, and a ratchet, you can remove the bolt
holding down the clamp on the driver's side of the distribuor where it
goes down in the block.  Remove bolt and retainer, then you should be
able to wiggle the distributor straight up and out of it's location.
Try twisting the housing back and forth if it seems stuck.  If it's
REALLY stuck, hoo boy.  STOP, and reconsider your options.  May have to
drop the oil pan/pump/drive rod assembly and use a long rod and hammer
to tap it out from the bottom.  (been there and done THAT too!)  No fun.

IMPORTANT.  WITH THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT OF THE ENGINE, AT THIS POINT, DO
NOT DISTURB THE CRANKSHAFT POSITION!!!  Find a suitable FME (foreign
material exclusion) cover to place in or over the hole in the block to
keep junk out.  If the oil pump rod came out with the distributor, it's
not a great big deal, but hopefully it's because someone FORGOT to put
the retainer washer in during assembly.

Assuming all goes well, when reinstalling, reverse the procedure.  If
the rotor is in the same position as when you started when installed,
then you shouldn't be too far off on your timing.  Once you get the
engine started, time to desired settings as normal.

Hope this works for you.
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 12:21:15 -0700
From: Eric Spence <ericsp@mail.ocis.net>
Subject: Re: Temp (cooling) questions

Does antifreeze not increase the boil temperature?

Wagner, John wrote:

> Actually..if you read the info on the redline bottle..it states that
> water transfers heat better than
> anti-freeze. You really should only use about 15% antifreeze, the rest
> water and the wetting stuff. If this is a race only car, delete the
> antifreeze altogether. Be sure your using the right pressure cap for
> your application, and the flow of water through the system is not too
> fast !
>
> John

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 15:36:39 EDT
From: <GT5726@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Stripping chrome from plastic?

just take a peice of 3M brand masking tape and press it firmly to the chrome
...let it set in the sun for an hour or so...then it should easily strip the
chrome.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 16:01:42 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Parts 4 Sale

PLEASE!
E me direct and
I'll get back to you A.S.A.P

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com

1966    B cylinder heads  (bare heads)      $150

1967    C cylinder heads with small heat riser hole   $225
           Magnufluxed  -  complete

1968
442 grill emblem                                         $40
Nos Side marker light gaskets                    $10 all
Nos front bumper rubbers (corner by fender)  $30
Ashtray Door                                               $10
Convertible top cylinders                              $30 ea.
Rear defroster switch                                    $25
Motor mount heat shield                               $8
Conv. Top latches                                           $30.pr
Conv. Vent windows with frames good chrome incl. glass   $40.pr.
Reverse light lens good condition                     $10
442 Carb  #7028251                               $150
Intake for 442 398662 with choke             $100
Choke pulldown only                               $25
Power Antenna Switch                           $25

1969
442 Grills exc.                         $150
Cutlass Grills                           $90
Wiper switch                            $40
Radio plate (uncut)                   $20
Rear defroster Switch & wiring   $25
Plastic headlight frames            $75
Ashtray Doors                           $10
Convertible top cylinders           $25
Convertible Trunk Lid rustfree    $100
Hood Hinges                             $35
442 Ashtray door with woodgrain Exc.    $20
Motor mount heat shield             $8
Conv. Top latches                      $30.pr
Vacuum trunk switch                  $25
Taillight lens and some housings  $15 ea
69-72      Nos SSI center caps        $165
69-72      Power window motors       $25 ea.

1970
Tail light lens (Cutlass)            $15 ea
Tail light lens (Supreme)         $20 ea
Nos 455 Oil Dipstick tubes           $20
Rear liscense plate brackets   $10ea.
Nos pass. side headlight frame  $60
Sport Mirrors                           $175
Nos fender script "Cutlass"      $30 ea
Nos Horn Contact (sport wheel)      $20 ea
Nos 442 emblem set (both sides, front tooth and trunk lid)      $150
F85 fender script                     $30 pr.
Rear side marker lights            $15 ea
70 442 bumper  core                     $100
Ashtray Doors                                $10
Dash Plaques (Plastic around gauges W/ wood grain)      $20
Convertible top cylinder                $25
Hood Hinges                                  $25
Motor mount heat shield                 $8
Conv. Top latches                          $40.pr
455 heads E casting                       $100
Convertible Top Switch                  $75
1 NOS rear Wheel well Molding      $60
69-72      Nos SSI center caps        $165
69-72      Power window motors       $25 ea.



1971 & 1972
Front bumper directional lens         $10 ea.
Tail light lens                                 $10 ea.
Trunk lid script "O-L-D-S-M-O-B-I-L-E"     $30
71-72 Rocker Chrome good/c (6 ft. long  bottom pieces)    $60
T handle  (that opens hood)                               $10
Ashtray Doors                                                $10
71  Cutlass Grills gc.                                      $90
Dash Plaques (Wood Grain area around gauges)       $10
Convertible top cylinders                                            $30
Hood Hinges                                                             $25
Rear ¼ panel supreme extensions                            $10
Motor mount heat shield                                           $8
Conv. Top latches                                                    $40.pr
Black  Automatic console                                        $75
Nos tailight lens Gaskets
                              part # 5963323 Lowers  - 2
                              part # 5963322 Uppers    - 4      $20 for all
69-72      Nos SSI center caps        $165 set
69-72      Power window motors       $25 ea.

1973
Carb         7043256                         $40

Shipping is extra
Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
905-357-4454

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 16:04:48 -0400
From: "Angel Castrodad" <angleki@prtc.net>
Subject: RE: Summit Gaskets

I haven't really tried this combination before but I've basically read
everywhere that you need a two piece gasket for the Perfomer intake. I'm
thinking of going with the Torque Plus gasket so I guess it's trial by error
here. Right?

Angel Castrodad
angleki@prtc.net

86'442--->> 307/5A/TH-350/3.73

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Erik Badzinski
> Sent: Thursday, June 25, 1998 12:35 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Summit Gaskets
>
>
> CRuper1@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated 98-06-25 06:44:06 EDT, you write:
> >
> > <<
> >  Speaking of gaskets, I'm told that I can't use a valle tray with an
> >  Edelbrock Performer manifold. I knot that I can use one for
> the Performer
> >  RPM, though. Can anyone tell me opinions on the best gaskets for this
> >  application?
> >
> >  TIA,
> >
> >  Angel Castrodad >>
> >
> > Hmm... that's interesting, I've used the valley pan (turkey
> tray) type of
> > gasket with my Performer manifold on two occasions, and it
> worked fine for
> > me...
> >
> > Chris Ruper
>
> Has anyone ever used the seperate valley pan and the intake gaskets?
> I know when I tried using the Turkey Tray intake gasket (where it's all
> one piece) it was a real SOB.  Could not get the gaskets to line up
> right, ended up wasting the whole piece.  Went with the two piece kind,
> but without the valley pan.
>
> Erik B.
> '72 Cutlass 'S'
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 16:20:29 EDT
From: <Cnvrt67@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Sport wheel horn button

Joe
       everything you mentioned below is the was it is now. the turnsignal
cancelation cam is in the 10:00 position. the scribe mark on the end of the
steering shaft is pointing upwards. but the button will still only snap on
upside down. any other ideas as to why it wont snap on?????
thanks..........all the info is greatly appreciated.

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible

______________________________________________________________________
 Joe wrote:

I assume you've got the horn button properly lined up with the horn contact
ring when you try to snap it into place, so the problem is that the hub is on
the steering shaft upside down.  Of course, the hub only goes on one way due
to the plastic part of the turn signal cancelling cam if I remeber correctly,
so that must be on incorrectly as well.  Pull the hub off.  The post on the
cancelling cam should be at about the 10:00 position with the wheels straight
ahead.  In this position, you should also see a scribe mark on the very end of
the steering shaft that should be pointed upwards.  If not, you have a problem
elsewhere in the steering shaft - it's been taken apart and not reassembled
with the correct clocking.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1329
*********************************
