Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
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cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1384


oldsmobile-digest      Wednesday, July 22 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1384



UNBOUNCE: Door Latch (fwd)
Re: fan clutch question
Re: Price busters - '69-'77 brake calipers
Re: FWIW, abreviation H*%p Please
Re: Where can I get good gears?
Re: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?
Re: Soylent's Fly(wheel) is Caught in......
Re: Bought my 70 442 again
Re: 69 brake drum color
Re: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?
Re: TH350 downshift cable
Re: D.Millers Olds Nationals
UNBOUNCE: Original GM Paint FS
Disk Brake/Power Booster Question
Re:THM200 4R vs THM700 R4
Re: Price busters - '69-'77 brake calipers
Re: 69 brake drum color
Re: '79 Hurst/Oldsmobiles and Turbocharged Buicks
Re: Price busters - '69-'77 brake calipers
Transmissions
Re: Disk Brake/Power Booster Question
Re: Disk Brake/Power Booster Question
Re: New Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Post
Re: Price busters - '69-'77 brake calipers
Re: Soylent's Fly(wheel) is Caught in......
Re: Price busters - '69-'77 brake calipers
Re: Disk Brake/Power Booster Question
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
Swap? was Re: Need early pattern flywheel
Re: Decoding a 62
RE: '79 Hurst/Oldsmobiles and Turbocharged Buicks
motor for sale
Re: Answer to Spark Trivia
Re: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
Re: Answer to Spark Trivia
[none]
Anybody wanna chat at "ROCKET TALK"?
Re: Ported vacuum to distributer?
Rocker Arm Adjustment
Re: transmissions
Re: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?
Re: transmissions
Who's building the tricked out '67? Cultass
Looking for Qudrajet
Re: juice brakes (non-mopar)
Re: 69 brake drum color
Spark Plug Theory (Trivia, etc)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 17:21:13 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Door Latch (fwd)

Not on the list; respond to ottolabs2@earthlink.net if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Otto Laboratories, Inc. <ottolabs2@earthlink.net>
Subject: Door Latch

I am looking for a door latch for a 1977 Oldsmobile Delta 88. I hear '77
thru '79 were similar so any of these years may be suitable.

NHTSA has been conducting research on door opening and door latch failures
since 1985. I am specifically interested in the latch, the part that
engages the striker post. I am mainly interested in the research done on GM
cars. I heard there was an investigation done specifically on GM.

The car in question is a 1977 Oldsmobile Delta 88, (4 door), the small
V-8. Front right latch. Thanks for your help. Rolland
<ottolabs2@earthlink.net>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 16:18:39 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: fan clutch question

> make two types: regular and one for heavy duty cooling systems. >How can I
tell which one I have? Would AC necessarily make it >heavy duty?


Bruce,

I'm not positive about this, but here's my thoughts.  I don't think AC alone
would constitute the need for a heavy duty cooling system.  An application
such as a hipo motor, trailering package, something along this line where
you'd have a 3 or 4 row radiator instead of the standard 2 row would be
considered heavy duty.

If you pull the clutch, it probably has a part number stamped on it and your
parts store should be able to cross reference this. I'm sorta going through
the same thing. My parts guy is telling me that he doesn't have a fan clutch
listed for a 72 350, only a 455. Haven't pulled mine yet to show him.

 Randy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 13:30:14 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Price busters - '69-'77 brake calipers

Joe,

> ...Are the spindles the same in disc brake setups for 68s (four-piston) and
> 69-72s(two-piston)?
> _______________
>
> The part numbers may not be exactly the same, but the spindles are
> functionally equivalent.  The differences are in the bolt-on caliper
> bracket.

So, let me understand this.  If I held the two spindles (with no
attachingmembers) side by side I would see a diff?  The reason why I am
getting
particular here is that if they are mirror images then the bolt-on caliper
bracket from a 69+ will be offsetted funny when used on a 68 application.
Does this make sense?

> The reason why I ask is that restoring the 68 (four piston) caliper is
> costly.
> What about the rotors?  If I have 68 rotors, will the other caliper do
> fine?
> _______________
>
> I had a hunch.  Everything I've read indicates that the 69-up calipers will
> work with the 67-68 rotors, due to the ability of the later calipers to
> "float" side to side.  The converse (early calipers on later rotors)

Is this "floating" due to the caliper moving or the bracket?

> apparently does not work due to minor differences in the centerline of the
> rotor.  The early calipers are fixed on the bracket and cannot float to
> match up with the newer rotor's centerline.  Are you rotors able to be
> turned?  I was under the impression that these were difficult to get also.

I don't know.  However I do know that several lug posts are gone on
bothrotors.  Don't I have to replace the rotors when these things break off?
If I had to buy new rotors (69+) would they bolt up to the spindle (68) ok?

> If that turns out to be the case, you can just use the 69-72 rotors on your
> early spindles (assuming you've already swapped the calipers and brackets,
> of course).

You just answered the previous question.  Doh!

> As for the calipers themselves, one big advantage of the 69-up calipers
> over the 67-68 units is that the later calipers use a piston seal fixed in
> the bore and a chrome plated piston which slides in this seal.  The chrome
> prevents the piston from rusting, and since the sliding surface is between
> the piston and the seal, pitting in the caliper bore itself in relatively
> unimportant.  Contrast this with the earlier (four-piston) calipers, where
> the seals are fixed to the pistons (sort of like the engine's piston rings)
> and thus the sliding contact is between the seal and the caliper bores.  In
> this case, even minor pitting in the bores has an obviously detrimental
> effect on sealing.  That's the reason why you see so many ads for companies
> that put steel sleeves in these calipers.

I guess for rust-proofing right?

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 13:18:48 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: FWIW, abreviation H*%p Please

For What It'sWorth FWIW
- -----Original Message-----
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
To: Olds Mail List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, July 22, 1998 11:58 AM
Subject: FWIW, abreviation H*%p Please


>FWIW, can't place the meaning of that in my C.A.R. {Current
>Abrevviations/Acronyms Remembered}
>
>Mike Rothe. wrote:
>> FWIW, in 1985, my 442 came from the factory with unpainted rear drums
>> with SSIII.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 16:27:10 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Where can I get good gears?

>they only make 30 spline gears), so who else can i get in contact >with to
get some rear gears for my car (28 splines)?

How about U.S. Gear (Torqueline)? Don't know how good they are or if they
make what you need, but it's a shot.  Did you call Summit, Jegs, Northern
etc. and just ask them what's available for your car?

just a thought,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 13:19:52 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?

it is a wafer circuit inside the control module also are you running the
four pin module?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Johnson, Sam <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, July 22, 1998 8:46 AM
Subject: RE: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?


>What is a low rpm spark circuit?
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: DYeager535@aol.com [SMTP:DYeager535@aol.com]
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 1998 6:00 PM
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?
>>
>> In a message dated 98-07-21 18:44:47 EDT, you write:
>>
>> << did you check the points? or if HEI the control module low rpm spark
>>  circuit? this can cause the symptoms you mentioned..kk >>
>>
>>
>>     I would assume we are both running HEI. I am. I'm not too familiar
>> with
>> internal's of HEI, but there is a low RPM spark circuit that is seperate?
>> I'm
>> not running computer. What would constitute "low RPM" for the circuit? As
>> soon
>> as it gets above 1200RPM, it's smooth. Every thing else is good or
>> changed, IE
>> plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Fires consistently under the timing light, but
>> thats
>> about all I can think of. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 16:40:10 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Soylent's Fly(wheel) is Caught in......

In a message dated 98-07-22 16:02:28 EDT, you write:

<< Can you take an inspection cover off the trans and look at the
 teeth before taking all that stuff apart? Have you got clean and
 tight cable connections (at _both_ ends of _both_ cables)?  >>

Karl had cover off overnight and today.

Teeth looked fine.

Karl used a batt carger on 100(0 ?) amp start mode in conjunction with batt.

Got an unexciting "nrur" and nothing.

Then crawled under car to free starting motor pinion again.

Karl wants to thank everyone (including C.B. Witt whom I contacted privately)
for prompt responses to flywheel (flexplate in AT?) request. I have to wait
for complete diagnostic to b completed (tomorrow) before ordering.

Thanks again.

KA
SOM
&I

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 13:23:02 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Bought my 70 442 again

depends 4barrel 4spd 2exhausts in the beginning then 400 4barrel 2exhausts
then you ask about the tripower ?????? dont know go figure...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Lance Kistner <lkistner@insul-8.com>
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, July 22, 1998 8:53 AM
Subject: RE: Bought my 70 442 again


>With that said....what does the 442 stand for?
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Peter Landowski [SMTP:PETTRIX@prodigy.net]
>Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 1998 6:01 PM
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Re: Bought my 70 442 again
>
>I had some guy at a gas station (shell mechanic) ask me if my 72 442 had a
>442 C.I. motor in it. I didn't want to make him look dum so I told him that
>the 442 stood for something completely different than the engine size.
>
> Or better yet I was at Pep Boys getting a 4 core radiator for my Olds and
>the lady behind the counter stated " I had a 72 442, it had a 454, boy did
>it move". Well what can you do, it's a Chevy world out there and we are the
>minority.
>
>----------
>> From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@mci2000.com>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: Bought my 70 442 again
>> Date: Tuesday, July 21, 1998 5:17 PM
>>
>> dont you hate it when they ask if it still has" the original four forty
>two
>> in it"...kk
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada) <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>> Date: Tuesday, July 21, 1998 11:23 AM
>> Subject: Re: Bought my 70 442 again
>>
>>
>> >babbott@pdnt.com wrote:
>> >
>> >> guy commented on my car. He said "I had one of those four fourty two's
>> >> once"...... Don't ya hate it when people say that? Wish me luck, this
>is
>> >
>> >At least he didn't say Forty Four two!  :-)
>> >
>> >--
>> >Chris Sparks
>> >68 442 SC - Frosty
>> >68 442 HT - Scarlet
>> >68 442 HT - Saffron
>> >82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
>> >http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada
>> >
>> >
>> >
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 13:25:00 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: 69 brake drum color

the brake drums were never painted that I know of unless the dealer did it
this goes for every GM including olds and corvette
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Rothe. <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, July 22, 1998 11:44 AM
Subject: Re: 69 brake drum color


>> All right this has been bugging me a little bit....all right a lot.  I'm
>> trying to figure out what the correct color for brake drums are on a 69
>> Cutlass/4-4-2
>
>I do know this.  The drums were painted 384 ONLY if it had the SSI or II
>wheels.  Otherwise they were left natural.  I can only suspect that it
>is a shade of black or VERY dark grey.  I'm basing this ONLY on my
>somewhat rememberance of my dad's 1970 Cutlass he bought new when I was
>a kid.  Had the SSI wheels.  He was rotating the tires on it, and I'm
>pretty sure the rear drum was black looking.   I know this isn't
>definitive proof, but, well, it's the best I got.  The 71 assembly
>manual has the IDENTICAL picture and paint codes in it as the '69, so I
>don't think there was any change.
>
>FWIW, in 1985, my 442 came from the factory with unpainted rear drums
>with SSIII.
>
>Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 16:44:48 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?

In a message dated 98-07-22 16:36:52 EDT, you write:

<< it is a wafer circuit inside the control module also are you running the
 four pin module? >>

     I have no idea about the pin or the wafer : ) It is a circa '77(?)
distributor. Is this piece easily checked/changed? Is it possible to get at it
without removing the distributor from the car? Always learning, Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 17:24:25 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: TH350 downshift cable

Yep, there were at least 2 different configurations for this. The '69-'72
A-bodies had it attached to the throttle pedal assembly and it came thru
the firewall. I also found out via trying to assist Mike Hall with his
Custom Cruiser project that the '77-'79 full sizers used the setup where
it attached to the throttle arm of the carb and requires a bracket that
mounts between the carb and intake.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 17:28:15 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: D.Millers Olds Nationals

On Wed, 22 Jul 1998 WMACHINES@aol.com wrote:
> Thanks for the bandwidth and I especially want Greg B the list maintainer to
> come and show off his Street Rocket Shirt.

Hey Mark, I'd love to, but Ohio is a little far for me... love the shirt
though, got it on again right now... :)

FYI, did you know that my comment thanking you for the shirt sparked a
project over on the Toro list to get *them* their own shirts?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 17:30:23 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Original GM Paint FS

Not on the list, respond to pdq@emag.on.ca if interested. Sorry for the
all caps.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"John/Linda Hetherington" <pdq@emag.on.ca>
Subject: ORIGINAL 1960's G.M. PAINT

I HAVE RECENTLY ACQUIRED THE FOLLOWING ORIGINAL
1960'S ERA (OEM) GENERAL MOTORS  LACQUER PAINTS THAT
ORIGINATED AT THE G.M. PLANT IN DETRIOT MICHIGAN.
..
I BELIEVE THIS IS AN UNUSUAL AND UNIQUE FIND THAT
WILL BE OF GREAT INTEREST TO ANYONE WISHING TO
KEEP THEIR G.M. CAR COMPLETELY ORIGINAL.

I WOULD BE MOST APPRECIATIVE IF ANYONE COULD PROVIDE
ANY FURTHER INFORMATION, SUCH AS SPECIFIC YEAR / MODEL
THAT THESE CODES REFER TO.


   MFG
*CODE*        *COLOR*                       *QUANTITY*

J 584972  ?  MEDIUM BLUE                        5
J 566529   -  COPPER                                      6
J 566281   -  GOLD                                          4
J 566804   -  MEDIUM LIGHT BLUE           4

K 560437  -  SILVER                                       5
K 560681  -  BROWN                                     1
K 570251  -  MEDIUM GREEN                     2
K 580028  -  SILVER/GREY                           4
K 584988  -  LIGHT BLUE/TURQUOIS       5


QUANTITY SHOWN ARE (US) 1 QUART CANS.  ALL  CANS
HAVE BEEN INSPECTED AND ALTHOUGH CANS HAVE SOME
EXTERIOR SURFACE RUST, ALL PAINT IS UNAFFECTED AND
IS AS NEW.


Best Regards;

John Hetherington
Ontario, CANADA
pdq@emag.on.ca

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 17:43:22 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Disk Brake/Power Booster Question

I recently picked up a set of disk brakes from a '70 Cutlass to convert
my '68 to disks. It's a very nice set, complete with spindles, brackets,
hoses, M/C, proportioning valve and lines.

The problem that I managed to overlook until now is that this is a set
from a manual disk brake car -- no power booster, and the M/C has the
actuating rod coming out of the back. I currently have power drums, and
don't want to give up the power assist, especially with disks. I
originally thought I could just get a different M/C and bolt everything
up. But now I'm wondering:

- - do I need a different power booster? I see Year One lists 2
applications, one for drums and another for disks. If so, I mitaswell go
for the replated jobbie from Steve Grigori...

- - do I need a different proportioning valve? Hope not...

- - I expect I'll need new hard lines because the power booster puts the
M/C further away from the firewall. Can I use my existing lines that the
drums use? The existing ones on there now don't have the circular loops in
them.

- - There seems to be some question re. which M/C I would need. There
is apparently a difference between the '69-'70 power disk M/C and the
'71-up version. Any idea what the differences are? They *look* different
externally, the early one has rounded ends, the later is more rectangular.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 15:58:01 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re:THM200 4R vs THM700 R4

According to what I have got from GM, no THM700 R4's were made with the
BOP pattern.  At the time none of the BOP engines (excluding the GN) had
the torque to hurt a THM200 4R (325 lbs ft) so one was not needed.  In
the 70's yes, lots of engines, but in the 80's very few.  It was
primarily slated for trucks.  Hence the 3.06 first gear ratio.  The
THM200 4R has a much tamer 2.74 and 1.57 gear ratios for 1st and 2nd.
The Chevy V8's (and V6 90) needed the higher RPM to make power, the Olds
V8's did not.  They make power at much lower RPM.  Yes, more useable
power.

One of the trans shops (I think it was Level 10) says the THM200 4R will
actually handle more power than the THM700 R4.  Either way, they both
can handle 450 lbs ft input if built properly.  So unless you are drag
racing, it is ok to install a built THM200 4R behind that 455.  I would.
 The savings in gas would easily pay for the rebuild every 100,000 miles
(assuming it is not abused).

I have yet to see a THM700 R4, so if it exists, please take pictures and
document it.  I would like to see it.  Put it on Bryceman's for all to
see.  Then scrounge for!

I would consider a THM700 R4 for OD if I had 2.73 gears in a 76 98 and
needed extra gearing off the line, but can suck up the wide rpm change
when it shifts from 1-2.  Most of th THM700 R4's shift 1-2 at 10 mph, or
less.

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 17:06:10 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Price busters - '69-'77 brake calipers

So, let me understand this.  If I held the two spindles (with no
attachingmembers) side by side I would see a diff?  The reason why I am
getting particular here is that if they are mirror images then the bolt-on
caliper
bracket from a 69+ will be offsetted funny when used on a 68 application.
Does this make sense?
___________

First, I suspect you would not be able to see a difference.  Second, the
right and left spindles are the same, only the caliper brackets and
steering arm attachment parts (both of which bolt on) are specific right
and left hand (note that this is unlike most cars, where the whole thing is
one complete forged part).  The steering arms are the same on all 68-72
drum and disc cars.
=================

Is this "floating" due to the caliper moving or the bracket?
____________

The caliper is attached to the bracket with two pins and slides back and
forth (actually, inboard and outboard) on the pins.  These pins are
actually about 3/8" diameter and about 3" long.
=================

...several lug posts are gone on bothrotors.  Don't I have to replace the
rotors when these things break off?
____________

No.  Lugs are pressed in from the backside of the rotor.  New lugs are
available at any auto parts store for about $1.50 apiece, plus the cost to
press them in.
==================

...That's the reason why you see so many ads for companies
> that put steel sleeves in these calipers.

I guess for rust-proofing right?
____________

Yes, and to salvage pitted caliper castings.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 17:08:39 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: 69 brake drum color

> the brake drums were never painted that I know of unless the dealer did it
> this goes for every GM including olds and corvette

Are you saying the assembly manual isn't correct??  It very well could
be wrong, but we still don't know what the code 384 is.  Either way, if
you restore your car to assembly manual specs, then you have
documentation that can back up your resto any day of the week.  If there
is anyone out there that can provide info, please, speak up.  If they
DIDN'T paint the drums when needed like the assembly manual claims, then
where is the documentation/personal experience at?  Not trying to blast
anyone here, but unless I see some contradictory evidence for the
assembly manual, then I'll stick with the manual.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 17:19:34 -0400
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <tjacquillard@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: '79 Hurst/Oldsmobiles and Turbocharged Buicks

tgstoner@umich.edu wrote:
>
> On Tue, 21 Jul 1998 Chad Schwartz <ChadS@pcsco.com> wrote:
>
> > . . .Maybe I should stick to Buick Grand Nationals because I definitely
> > know that of all them in '87 were black, had 3.8L Buick V6 Turbo
> > engines, and hauled ass! :-)
>
> ********************
> But not all of the turbocharged V6 Regals in 1987 were Grand Nationals,
> were they?  Didn't they also still make the Regal T-Type with the
> tubrocharged engine in 1987?
snip
yes, the T-TYPES were available with every option the g/n was. My buddy
has one. It is pretty mean, but not mean enough for my '68 cutlass w/'68
Toro 455. He has tried on 4 different occasions and hasn't won any. The
funny thing is that I still have the orig. open rear end. Good thing I
know my car real well. I just haven't been able to afford a "limited
slip"(I hope this is the right term for olds.) rear-end.
T.J.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 14:37:16 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Price busters - '69-'77 brake calipers

Joe,

> First, I suspect you would not be able to see a difference.  Second, the
> right and left spindles are the same, only the caliper brackets and

How can the right and left be the same?  If I had to driver's side spindles
the passenger side will have the attachment point for the steering are in
an opposite position that the drivers:

           |** (point to mount steering)
- -----|

Rotate this pup 180 for the other side:

   |-----
**|

> The caliper is attached to the bracket with two pins and slides back and
> forth (actually, inboard and outboard) on the pins.  These pins are
> actually about 3/8" diameter and about 3" long.

So there should be enough adjustment to get the caliper square on therotor?

> No.  Lugs are pressed in from the backside of the rotor.  New lugs are
> available at any auto parts store for about $1.50 apiece, plus the cost to
> press them in.

Any idea how much "pressing" will cost?  Who do I go for this task?

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 16:37:21 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: Transmissions

http://ni.umd.edu/gnttype/www/transtutor.html

Good info on GM trans.  Thanks Steve!

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 17:38:09 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Disk Brake/Power Booster Question

Greg,

First, let me say that while I can't tell you what the differences in power
boosters are between disc and drum applications, I have successfully used
drum brake boosters with disc M/Cs on several occasions (most recently on
Tom Simmons' 65).  Obviously, you'll need the correct PDB M/C.

Yes, the early and later cars use M/Cs that look different, but I haven't
found a functional difference.  Again, I can't recite specifics about bore
diameter, though a smaller bore will obviously provide higher line
pressures.  I suspect the bores are the same size.

Which proportioning valve do you have - the 70-earlier proportioning-only
valve or the 71-up combination valve.  The early valve has only two ports
and is designed to be used in conjuntion with a separate distribution block
like the one for drums.  The proportioning valve was mounted below the M/C
on a bracket and plumbed into the line between the rear brake outlet on the
M/C and the distribution block.  The combination valve has five ports and
an electrical terminal, combining the proportioning valve, distribution
block, and brake pressure switch into one housing which mounts were the
drum brake distribution block was located.  Either configuration works.

Some of your existing brake lines may be useable, however keep in mind that
GM used unique flare nuts on all the lines to preclude incorrect assembly.
In addition, the drum brake lines use different diameter flare nuts than
their disc brake counterparts in some cases.  Add to this the fact that
you're guaranteed to break at least one of the lines during disassembly and
I'm sure your looking at fabricating new lines.  The alternative is buying
a set pre-bent from an outfit like Inline Tube (who I highly recommend, by
the way).  'Course, at that point, you MIGHTASWELL get their complete
stainless brake line set...

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 16:48:58 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Re: Disk Brake/Power Booster Question

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> I recently picked up a set of disk brakes from a '70 Cutlass to convert
> my '68 to disks. It's a very nice set, complete with spindles, brackets,
> hoses, M/C, proportioning valve and lines.
>
> The problem that I managed to overlook until now is that this is a set
> from a manual disk brake car -- no power booster, and the M/C has the
> actuating rod coming out of the back. I currently have power drums, and
> don't want to give up the power assist, especially with disks. I
> originally thought I could just get a different M/C and bolt everything
> up. But now I'm wondering:
>
> - do I need a different power booster? I see Year One lists 2
> applications, one for drums and another for disks. If so, I mitaswell go
> for the replated jobbie from Steve Grigori...
>
> - do I need a different proportioning valve? Hope not...
>
> - I expect I'll need new hard lines because the power booster puts the
> M/C further away from the firewall. Can I use my existing lines that the
> drums use? The existing ones on there now don't have the circular loops in
> them.
>
> - There seems to be some question re. which M/C I would need. There
> is apparently a difference between the '69-'70 power disk M/C and the
> '71-up version. Any idea what the differences are? They *look* different
> externally, the early one has rounded ends, the later is more rectangular.
>
> Any advice greatly appreciated.
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada


These are the issues that people have been struggling with since disk
brake conversions came to be.

Here are my thoughts and experiences:

I have converted 3 cars from drum to brake, all 3 were power assist. I
left all the original boosters, lines, and proportioning valves and I
have never had any problems. As long as the rear brakes are in good
working condition and properly adjusted, the cars feel to me just like
and other disk/drum car. I have tried both the early style and the later
style master cylinders and even a drum master cylinder on disk brakes
and I personally have not been able to tell the difference in any of
them.


Just my $.02

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 17:49:22 -0400
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <tjacquillard@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: New Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Post

maillist@SEE.MESSAGE.FOR.ADDRESS wrote:
>
> A new message, "Exhaust manifolds for '65 Dynamic 88 425," was posted on
> the Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board
<http://cgi.exo.com/~jht/olds/oldsbbs/index.cgi> > by Chris Harris on 
Wednesday,
22 July 1998, at 2:27 p.m. > > The message reads as follows: > >
------------------------- > > I am searching for exhaust manifolds for my '65
Dynamic 88 convertible > with a 425. Any ideas about sources? > Thank you, >
Chris My brother is parting out his '66 Starfire. If these e/m will work give
him an E-mail at (jacquillard@mindspring.com). T.J.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 17:54:27 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Price busters - '69-'77 brake calipers

...right and left spindles are the same, only the caliper brackets and

How can the right and left be the same?  If I had to driver's side spindles
the passenger side will have the attachment point for the steering are in
an opposite position that the drivers:
______________

The steering arm (my terminology), which is the attachment point for the
outer tie rod, is a separate bolt-on part.  The spindles are identical from
side to side; the addition of this bolt-on steering arm makes them unique
RH and LH.  You could unbolt the steering arms, swap the spindles side for
side, and reassemble the arms.  It will all fit.
===============

So there should be enough adjustment to get the caliper square on therotor?
_______________

Yupper
===============

Any idea how much "pressing" will cost?  Who do I go for this task?
_______________

Should be pretty cheap.  Any automotive machine shop with a press should be
able to do it in just a few minutes.  I've actually used a sledge hammer,
punch, and a socket (to recieve the stud as it is removed) on several
occations.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 18:05:11 EDT
From: <Bowtie911@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Soylent's Fly(wheel) is Caught in......

Hope you have an air conditioned garage, good trans jack, and a least one good
friend that brings the beer. Been there, done that, whew.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 15:08:18 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Price busters - '69-'77 brake calipers

Thanks Joe!

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 18:53:51 -0400
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: Re: Disk Brake/Power Booster Question

Greg: I did a conversion on my 69 from power drums to 1970 power disks
but will be upgrading some of the used parts this winter to ensure that
I have the correct set-up. I bought the parts from several sources. The
only good advise re proportional valves, master cylinder etc I got was
by phoning Year One's technical service.....1-800-950-9503.  They
answered questions that were not obvious from their catalogue.  The
parts they recommended and that I will likely order are:  a NG116 master
cylinder; a 1234389 proportioning valve; and a 1233464 metering valve.
I'll buy the lines locally.  Give them a try.  Let me know if you don't
get the same answer.  Wayne Schwartz

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> I recently picked up a set of disk brakes from a '70 Cutlass to convert
> my '68 to disks. It's a very nice set, complete with spindles, brackets,
> hoses, M/C, proportioning valve and lines.
>
> The problem that I managed to overlook until now is that this is a set
> from a manual disk brake car -- no power booster, and the M/C has the
> actuating rod coming out of the back. I currently have power drums, and
> don't want to give up the power assist, especially with disks. I
> originally thought I could just get a different M/C and bolt everything
> up. But now I'm wondering:
>
> - do I need a different power booster? I see Year One lists 2
> applications, one for drums and another for disks. If so, I mitaswell go
> for the replated jobbie from Steve Grigori...
>
> - do I need a different proportioning valve? Hope not...
>
> - I expect I'll need new hard lines because the power booster puts the
> M/C further away from the firewall. Can I use my existing lines that the
> drums use? The existing ones on there now don't have the circular loops in
> them.
>
> - There seems to be some question re. which M/C I would need. There
> is apparently a difference between the '69-'70 power disk M/C and the
> '71-up version. Any idea what the differences are? They *look* different
> externally, the early one has rounded ends, the later is more rectangular.
>
> Any advice greatly appreciated.
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 18:57:44 EDT
From: <Spitty1500@aol.com>
Subject: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S

I recently aquired a 1970 cutlass S....I have had the entire car restored but
unfortunately know very little about the car. Any information that is out
there would be greatly appreciated....especially about how this oldsmobile is
compred to other Oldsmobiles as far as value and desirability

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 18:59:18 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Swap? was Re: Need early pattern flywheel

In a message dated 98-07-22 15:25:55 EDT, you write:

<< I assume you're talking about an AT flexplate. >>

Oh.
Yah.

The big round thing with the teeth that is bolted to that *beautiful* torque
converter on my TH400.

Sorry, this just never came up before. And what with all youse guyse and your
rip-roaring 4 4 2 with 4-speed Muncie's (???). Karl seldom hears the term
"flexplate".

BTW anyone interested in an even swap? A 4 4 2  W-30 for a 1965 Dynamic 88
Celebrity Sedan 4dr hdtp? Comes with manuals, extra M/C, extra (damaged)
vibrational damper, two non-functional wiper motors, one aftermarket (on car)
and two original oil pans (with funky drain plug), two spare (rusty) axle
shafts, one spare (correct!) early type TH400 filter kit *with instructions*,
one Hurst-brand shift kit (ala Chris Witt), one 14" bias tire. You also get
original rims, hubcaps, and coil (Supercoil in car).

Will settle for a 1968 Vista Cruiser in good condition.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 18:59:26 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Decoding a 62

Yah. It's me.

First, let me explain.
The *real* reason I was afraid *for* you buying that car is my own
circumstance. I have had lots o probs with my 1965 Dynamic 88.

One month ago I had an $800 brake job. Of course that included towing, one
necessary rear wheel bearing and one unnecessary. I figured bearings were
probably 33 years old, may as well have both new. Much money, but my mechanic
is trustworthy.

You need to find a good mechanic too. Every once in a while something happens
where you need people with mechanic education to diagnose.
A couple of parts cars never hurt either.

But I digress.

You wanna know about you 1962 F-85 Cvt. (I do actually envy you!)

For a FULL VIN decode, you (or someone) needs a 1962 Chassis Manual.
I suggest that you get one. All the mechanical Information you will ever need.
They can be found at most large car-show type swap meets, or through places
like 1-800 BY A BOOK.

In the meantime, here is what I know about it.

General awareness of a need for "economy" cars propted GM's agenda. Chevrolet
would produce the first of the unibody cars: the Corvair, in 1960. With B-O-P
following in 1961. These were Buick Special, F-85, and Tempest.
"F-85" was choses as a name as it was reminiscent of military aircraft.
Actually the name Cutlass was based on a real plane.....

The first F-85 appeared in 1961, although it had been planned since the later
1950's. Prices were $2502 to $3091.

1962 F-85's included;
(this info from "Setting the Pace")

model               total production
   3000 series
Club Coupe              7909
4dr Sedan              8074
Sports Convertible  3660
2 seat Sta. Wgn      3204
3 seat SW std          1887

   3100 series
Cutlass Coupe         32461
Deluxe 4dr Sedan    18736
Deluxe 2 seat SW    4974
Cutlass Convertible  9898
Jetfire Coupe          3765

So, there were two convertibles. The Sports Convertible (your car?), and the
F-85 Cutlass Convertible.

BTW If you hear anyone calling a mid 1960's car a Cutlass, go right ahead and
tell them they are wrong! They are F-85s, or F-85 Cutlasses. F-85 was the base
model. Sayting "Cutlass" is like saying "Holiday Coupe." They are variants of
the base models period.

The original motor should be an *aluminium* 215 V-8 making 185 hp. GM had
buick make the motors for Buick and Olds, but Oldsmobiles had their own
cylinder head designs.

Interestingly, the 1961 F-85's had auluminium radiators too. But PEAK
antifreze caused a problem, it dissolved some of the aluminum on the inside,
causing radiator failure because of all the "fluff" that plugged it up.

After much complaining that PEAK was "great stuff", Peak Antifreeze changed
their formulation.

I hope this helped!

Karl Aune

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 18:16:23 -0500
From: Chad Schwartz <ChadS@pcsco.com>
Subject: RE: '79 Hurst/Oldsmobiles and Turbocharged Buicks

********************
>But not all of the turbocharged V6 Regals in 1987 were Grand Nationals,
>were they?

True - not all turbocharged V6 Regals were Grand Nationals in any year
actually.

>Didn't they also still make the Regal T-Type with the
>tubrocharged engine in 1987?
>And of course the T-Types were available in
>colors other than black too

No, actually is was the Turbo T.  1986 was the last year of the T-Type.
They were available in any color you could order the regular Regal with.

>Of course all of the Buick Grand Nationals
>were painted black, regardless of year and even including the few 1986
>LeSabre Grand Nationals which were built.

Not true.  '82 Buick Grand Nationals were 2 tone.
Check out this picture: http://ni.umd.edu/gnttype/pictures/82gn.jpg

>Now I know that Buick had made many improvements in the turbocharged V6 by
>1987, including fuel injection.  Weren't they also intercooled by then as
>well too?

They actually had fuel injection back in '84.  The air-to-air intercooler
was added in '86.  '86 & '87 engines (besides the GNX) were almost identical
besides maybe the chip.  '86 - '87 Turbo Regals are the good ones to have if
you want to modify for speed.  The '89 Turbo Trans Am also had the Buick
Turbo Regal 3.8L Turbo engine with different heads and intercooler.

>But back in 1979 when your Hurst/Olds was new, the Buick turbo
>package used a 4 barrel carb though and was rated at only 180 horsepower.

The turbo Buick in '79 was rated at 170 HP @ 4000 RPM 245 ft-lbs of torque
at 2400 RPM

>That compared about equally to the 170 horsepower rating for the Olds 350
>V8 in your H/O.  I know this well, because I raced our '79 Century Turbo
>Coupe against my wife in our '79 H/O on more than one occasion, and neither
>car had an upper hand.

The Olds actually had a little more torque.  Both would be side by side. :-)

>Speaking of true dual, semi-dual, and single exhaust systems, your
>Hurst/Olds should be what I'd classify as a single system.  It should have
>a crossover pipe and single cat and muffler.  The only difference from it
>and the exhaust system used on a '79 Calais with the Olds 260 V-8, would be
>that the muffler has two outlets.  Now, my '79 Century Tubro Coupe had a
>crossover pipe and a single converter, but a "Y" pipe behind the cat and
>only dual chambered pipes and no mufflers back to the rear.  Is your '87
>Grand National the same semi-dual configuration?

When I purchased my Hurst/Olds it probably had after market exhaust on it
then.  It had a Y off the CAT splitting into 2 pipes and mufflers then
exiting right behind the rear tire.  My GN came stock with a Y pipe off the
CAT that split into 2 pipes and both going back into 1 muffler and splitting
back out to 2 tail pipes right behind the rear tire.  I don't know what you
would call that.  Single-Dual-Single-Dual??  Currently now my GN has stock
headers with 2 ¼" cross over pipe to Turbo to 3" down pipe, 3" test pipe
with removable dump, 4" collector expanding to 5" collector with 2 mandrel
bent 2 ½" pipes to 2 ½" Ultra Flow mufflers to 2 pipes 2 ½" that exist
behind the rear wheels in stock location.  Hurst has 1 pipe 2 ¼" off each
header with 2 Dyno Max mufflers 2 ½" and 2 tail pipes 2 ¼".

>Regardless, enjoy both
>your Hurst/Olds and Grand National.

I plan to.  Thanks!  Enjoy your cars also! :-)  Sorry for the none Olds
bandwidth!  Won't do it next time.  I'll keep it private.
I'll take any information about the '79 Hurst/Olds and '80 442 if anyone has
any.  Please send directly to my e-mail address.

1987
GNX - 547 Produced
Grand National (WE2) - 20,193 Produced
Turbo T (WE4) - 1,547 Produced
Regal Limited w/ Turbo - 1,035 Produced
Base Regal w/ Turbo - 4,268 Produced

Total Turbo Cars = 27,590

1986
Grand National - 5,512 Produced
T-Type - 2,384 Produced
LeSabre Grand National - 112 Produced (Non-turbo 3.8L FWD)

Total Turbo Cars = 7,896

1985
Grand National - 2,102 Produced
T-Type - 2,100 Produced

Total Turbo Cars = 4,204

1984
Grand National - 2,000 Produced
T-Type - 3,401 Produced

Total Turbo Cars = 5,204

1983
T-Type - 3,732 Produced

Total Turbo Cars = 3,732

1982
Grand National - 215 Produced (Just 16 of which were believed to be
turbocharged. i.e. Same engine as Sport Coupe.)
Sport Coupe - 2,022 Produced

Total Turbo Cars = 2,022

1981
Sport Coupe - 2,891 Produced

Total Turbo Cars = 2,891

1980
Sport Coupe - 6,276 Produced

Total Turbo Cars = 6,276

1979
Sport Coupe - 21,389 Produced

Total Turbo Cars = 21,389

1978
Sport Coupe (2BBL) - 2,697 Produced
Sport Coupe (4BBL) - 27,811 Produced

Total Turbo Cars = 30,507

Thanks,
Chad Schwartz
chads@pcsco.com
mIRC: ROCKN6
Denison, IA
'87 GN  T-Tops (TE-44, 40lb Inj, Modified Stock IC, ATR Cam, JC Chip,
			 ATR 2 ½" SS Exhaust, TH 3" DP, 3" Test Pipe, ATR
Ram Air)
'79 H/O T-Tops (400 HP/430 TQ ZZ4 350 H.O. Chevy, TH350, 3.73 Posi)

"Poverty Is Owning A Race Car"  "Happiness Is A Low E.T."

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 19:32:13 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: motor for sale

Anyone out there in Olds' land need a 350? I don't know the specifics, except
it is supposedly a runner, but has a bad carb. I think it's about a '77. Can
find out more info if wanted, and the price is $100. It's in the Seattle
area.E-mail direct, Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 18:54:27 -0500
From: "Paul D. Pate" <rocket455@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Answer to Spark Trivia

> If I am remembering correctly, the center part of the spark plug is
> negative because the arc travels from it to the part of the plug that
> contacts the head.  It is considered negative because it gives up
> electrons to the positive electrode.
>
> Paul Pate

<Well, this was the closest answer I've seen.>

So... do I get a prize???

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 19:04:03 -0500
From: "Paul D. Pate" <rocket455@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S

What equipment does your car have?
Engine?
Transmission?
Rear axle?
Interior?

Paul Pate
70 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 18:16:07 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Answer to Spark Trivia

> <Well, this was the closest answer I've seen.>
>
> So... do I get a prize???

"ATTABOY!"  (best I can do...)  Actually it was more the bizzare reasoning that
I was curious to see.  That high-voltage block idea really seems to confuse
people ;)


- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 20:32:34, -0500
From: GQPR12E@prodigy.com ( CLAYTON PIERCE)
Subject: [none]

Well... Joe... I don't claim to know enough about tranny's to
identify a 2004R from a 700R4... I knew it was an overdrive that was
all... my buddy who was with me knows OD's better than I.  He's
rebuilt several of them and has a built 2004R in his car... he looked
at it and said "hmm... that's not a 200" then he said that it was a
700R4.  Have no way of checking or proving it as the car is still in
Virginia.  Will see if I can get some numbers off of it.  Buddy says
that he has seen an Olds 700R4 before out of another Delta 88 and
that they put them in GMC's too.  He's normally good at identifying
just about anything so I'm going to trust his judgement until I or
someone else can prove otherwise.


>> Actually the '84 Olds Delta 88 I'll be towing home soon has a BOP
pattern
>> 700R4 in it.  No adapter needed here... currently attached to the
original
>> OLDSMOBILE 307!

>> Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
>> Clayton Pierce,
>> ________________

> Uh...I thought the 700R4 only came with a Chevy bolt pattern.  I'd
be
> willing to bet that 307 is driving a _200R4_.

> Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com

> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 17:41:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: John M <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Anybody wanna chat at "ROCKET TALK"?

Hi gang,
        I know Charley said tomorrow night ,but,I'm bored
tonite.Anybody want to meet there,I'm gonna be in and out.
         P.S Charley's invited TOO :)


John

==
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73 http://www.442.com/mcjunkin.html
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof-307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!
 mailto:super442@yahoo.com


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 20:45:38 EDT
From: <Mikeytvb@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Ported vacuum to distributer?

on any oldsmobile V8 engine, the distributer gets ported vacuum.  you don't
want advance at an idle, you want it when crusing.  why do you think they call
it "vacuum advance"?  because when the engine is above idle, vacuum pulls the
points or magneto around in the distributer giving the distributer advancd.
what you said about overheating.......wrong again.  with the timing advanced
at an idle, the engine will tend to overheat.  look at demolition derby
cars....they run so much retarded timing, the engine doesn't even like to run,
but they can run without water for around 10 minutes.  just trust me on this
one, i have lots of experience with olds distributers(both points and HEI).
no matter what brand carb you have, the distributer never gets manifold
vacuum.  even though a very, very few olds' came from the factory with
manifold vacuum.  the only reason they did this is because when they put in
the distributers, if the timing would not advance enough, they used manifold
vacuum.  this was easier than pulling the distributer and realigning it.  they
could have been a little smarter, but then again they are factory workers.
now if you were smart you would take my advice and move on.  but if you choose
not to listen to me, it's not my stupidity.

mikeytvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 20:03:27 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Rocker Arm Adjustment

My buddy wanted to know is it better to turn an adjustable roler rocker arm
less than 3/4 of a turn for better valve lift? He has an Olds 455 with
Harland Sharp rockers. Would it make the car quicker due to less
resistance?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 17:51:49 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: transmissions

At 08:32 PM 7/22/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Well... Joe... I don't claim to know enough about tranny's to
>identify a 2004R from a 700R4... I knew it was an overdrive that was
>all... my buddy who was with me knows OD's better than I.  He's
>rebuilt several of them and has a built 2004R in his car... he looked
>at it and said "hmm... that's not a 200" then he said that it was a
>700R4.  Have no way of checking or proving it as the car is still in
>Virginia.  Will see if I can get some numbers off of it.

Since I just ordered a TH350 to replace the jetaway, can someone tell me
exactly what a 700R4 is?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 17:47:25 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?

try a napa store they used to have hei module testers in them havent seen
one in a while but snapon makes one and so does sun or someone like that
they are cheap and run off one 9 volt battery very simple you count flashes
of an led and match this code to a graph in the manual for the tester and
voila it tells you what is wrong with the module all this asside you could
check the dwell with a dwell meter and see if it is in spec should be about
28-32 degrees if memory serves me correctly if it doesnt fall in this range
boom theres your problem if it does then look elsewhere or you could try
replacing the mod and see if that works...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: DYeager535@aol.com <DYeager535@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, July 22, 1998 1:53 PM
Subject: Re: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?


>In a message dated 98-07-22 16:36:52 EDT, you write:
>
><< it is a wafer circuit inside the control module also are you running the
> four pin module? >>
>
>     I have no idea about the pin or the wafer : ) It is a circa '77(?)
>distributor. Is this piece easily checked/changed? Is it possible to get at
it
>without removing the distributor from the car? Always learning, Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 18:04:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: John M <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: transmissions

- ---Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com> wrote:

> Since I just ordered a TH350 to replace the jetaway, can someone
tell me
> exactly what a 700R4 is?
>
It's basically,I guess you'd say,"the heavy duty" version of a
200R4.They're found in most GM trucks,and some vans,my girlfriends 91
GMC Safari has one behind a 4.3 V-6.
          my .02
                 John
==
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73 http://www.442.com/mcjunkin.html
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof-307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!
 mailto:super442@yahoo.com


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 21:07:17 -0400
From: "deirdre. reilly" <102724.635@compuserve.com>
Subject: Who's building the tricked out '67? Cultass

I'm sorry about wasting bandwidth this way, but who is building that
radical convert with the Del-alum bushings for a daily driver??

If you could please e-mail privately with the details on your suspension, I
would apreciate it.  I think I'm doing something similar with my Cutlass
and I would like to ask you some questions.

Thanks a lot.

Bill Reilly
102724.635@compuserve.com
'83 Cutlass Ciera
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 21:08:27 EDT
From: <JohnMonnin@aol.com>
Subject: Looking for Qudrajet

I am looking for a quadrajet carb for my 69 Cutlass 350

Anyone who has one for sale please E-mail me privately.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 20:56:28 -0400
From: "Edwin R. Burger IV" <erb22@drexel.edu>
Subject: Re: juice brakes (non-mopar)

The fun thing about the buick is that I allready own it.  I'm doing this car
on the (very) cheap.  I might be able to get the drums off of some other old
car's I have kicking about, but discs would just be too much money and a
headache.  Plus, I just have this disdain for rods with ifs and disc brakes.

Ed

PS.  What should I look for?  I've never done a swap like this before.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Dr. David Ritter <dritter@semovm.semo.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, July 19, 1998 3:00 PM
Subject: Re: juice brakes (non-mopar)


>Ed:
>I recommend that you check into this before deciding on using the Buick
>brakes just because you have them. The brakes off of something in your
local
>junkyard may be a much easier swap.  I have a later model (1946) Chevy
truck
>with I-beam and the front Bendix brakes off of a 53-54 Chevy car bolted on
>with just two of the mounting holes redrilled.
>
>As long as you are doing the brake upgrade, I would recommend going to
front
>disks if you can. You may want to check with Master Power to see if they
>have a kit for your application.
>David Ritter
>
>At 12:52 PM 7/16/98 -0400, you wrote:
>>Does anyone here know about putting juice brakes onto an old i beam
>>axle?  The '25 Chevy .......
>>The buick has drum brakes, and its from the 70s - not sure what year.
>>
>>
>David Ritter
>Department of Chemistry
>Southeast Missouri State University
>dritter@semovm.semo.edu
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 18:35:36 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: 69 brake drum color

then what color is 384 if we figure that out then we can paint them if not
what color do you paint them? grey? black? hot pink? sorry for the jab but
the other makes didnt paint them so there is that possibility but
if the manual says paint them who knows the color
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Rothe. <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, July 22, 1998 2:12 PM
Subject: Re: 69 brake drum color


>> the brake drums were never painted that I know of unless the dealer did
it
>> this goes for every GM including olds and corvette
>
>Are you saying the assembly manual isn't correct??  It very well could
>be wrong, but we still don't know what the code 384 is.  Either way, if
>you restore your car to assembly manual specs, then you have
>documentation that can back up your resto any day of the week.  If there
>is anyone out there that can provide info, please, speak up.  If they
>DIDN'T paint the drums when needed like the assembly manual claims, then
>where is the documentation/personal experience at?  Not trying to blast
>anyone here, but unless I see some contradictory evidence for the
>assembly manual, then I'll stick with the manual.
>
>Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 21:58:47 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Spark Plug Theory (Trivia, etc)

Gotta add my comments to this thread before it dies, with the sincere hope
of clearing up confusion, and not adding to it.

1). Yes the center electrode is negative with respect to ground as Charlie
mentioned. The ignition coil itself performs the polarity inversion.

2) Electrical current flow is a result of the movement of electrons, (I'm
ignoring semiconductor theory egg-head stuff) and electrons have a negative
charge. Current therefore flows from negative to positive.

3) A spark is a very complex thing. There's gas ionization and all kinds of
funky physics at work there - it's not just a matter of Ohm's law. You can't
assume that a spark won't jump from multiple points at the same time - it
DOES. Look closely next time you check a plug and you'll see for yourself.
There's not just one spark there, there's a bunch of 'em.

4) Electrons tend to "accumulate" at sharp edges. No one knows why. A spark
plug's electrodes should be filed so the center one is flat (not pointed),
and the outer electrde is squared at the end - this provides the largest
amount of "sharp" edges for electrons to jump between.

5) In theory, Splitfires provide more edges for the spark to arc between, so
the spark should be bigger (fatter, whatever). Never had my eyeball in a
combustion chamber to see fer myself.

Other miscallaneous electrical crapola:

>
>> correction number one current flows from negative to positive voltage
>> goes the other way
>
>Uhh, wrong.  Current flows both directions, based on the theory used.
Electrons
>jump negative to positive, while holes jump positive to negative.

"Hole" theory only applies to semiconductors, not the real world of
Oldsmobiles.

> VOLTAGE ~doesn't~ flow.  At all.

Correct. Voltage can be considered the "pressure" that "pushes" current
through a conductor.

Dave Cullen, EE

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1384
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