Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1324


oldsmobile-digest       Tuesday, June 23 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1324



Re: Wanted
hood stripes
Re: Wanted
Cam Bank Angle Saga. Was Crazy Questions?
Re: How do you get even with your car?
72 Supreme
Re: am i an idiot...?
GM website - GM resto Catalogue
Opinions on what to do
need help with VIN numbers(non-olds)
Re:FLASHING HOT LIGHT
More on Short Pushrods
looking for parts
Re: How do you get even with your car?
Non olds, but EXTREMELY funny
86 Cutlass guage package
Anti-new car was Opinions on what to do
Re:  RE: 68-69 442 Convertible for sale
Re: Anti-new car was Opinions on what to do
'69 442 for sale ($500)
Re: Non olds, but EXTREMELY funny
Re: Backfires?
Re: More on Short Pushrods  (long)
455 weight
Olds 455 motor on GMC Motorhome
Re: 455 weight
Re: 455 weight
Re: Backfires?
Project Blackout underway & H/O Question
Re: UNBOUNCE: Air Cleaner Recommendations
Is anyone getting this?
Re: 455 weight
TH-350 to TH-400 swap - Dual gate linkage won't hook up! HELP!
RE: 68-69 442 Convertible for sale
Backfires?
Re: UNBOUNCE: Air Cleaner Recommendations
Re: am i an idiot...?
But, officer...
torque specs
Re: Need some opinions..!!!
Re: 86 Cutlass guage package
RE: Window Tint
RE: am I an idiot...?
Re: free heat shrink tube
Re: torque specs
Re: torque specs
Re: UNBOUNCE: Air Cleaner Recommendations
RE: torque specs
Re: TH-350 to TH-400 swap - Dual gate linkage won't hook up! HELP!
RE: torque specs
making olds into sportscar vs. buying one
Ok I got get responses on one of my last questions!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 21:43:02 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted

Wow...Not too many plain Cutlass conv's out there...only 3777 made!  I
have a pic of my car at http:\\www.inmind.com\people\pparker.arthur.htm
It's incorrectly labeled as a supreme.  I'll give ya the guy's phone
number and address...C&M Classic Parts
                       1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                                (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
                                         <chermac@exis.net>

Dave wrote:
>
> Mine is just a plain Cutlass.  Do you have any pictures of your car you
> could email me?  I am tring to build a collection of sorts!
>
> Also I tried that address you gave me (www.chermac@exis.net) and I get an
> error?
>
> Dave
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Monday, June 22, 1998 8:08 PM
> Subject: Re: Wanted
>
> >I have the same problem with my 67 cutlass.  Is yours a supreme or a
> >plain cutlass convertible?  I usually just tell the cop the speedo said
> >I was doing 65.....Here's an email address for a guy with radios....
> >
> >www.chermac@exis.net
> >

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 21:42:42 -0400
From: dave <dave70ss@ici.net>
Subject: hood stripes

does anyone know where you can get a stencil kit
for a 1972 cutlass hood with the two louvers?
the w-30 hood stripes are available but not the one I need
I called the two muscle car stencil companies but they
did not have them.  If not I will have them painted on.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 21:45:41 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted

woops, the link to my car pic isn't working, I'll have to get back to
you on that...

Arthur Hoffman wrote:
>
> Wow...Not too many plain Cutlass conv's out there...only 3777 made!  I
> have a pic of my car at http:\\www.inmind.com\people\pparker.arthur.htm
> It's incorrectly labeled as a supreme.  I'll give ya the guy's phone
> number and address...C&M Classic Parts
>                        1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
>                                 (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
>                                          <chermac@exis.net>
>
> Dave wrote:
> >
> > Mine is just a plain Cutlass.  Do you have any pictures of your car you
> > could email me?  I am tring to build a collection of sorts!
> >
> > Also I tried that address you gave me (www.chermac@exis.net) and I get an
> > error?
> >
> > Dave
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > Date: Monday, June 22, 1998 8:08 PM
> > Subject: Re: Wanted
> >
> > >I have the same problem with my 67 cutlass.  Is yours a supreme or a
> > >plain cutlass convertible?  I usually just tell the cop the speedo said
> > >I was doing 65.....Here's an email address for a guy with radios....
> > >
> > >www.chermac@exis.net
> > >

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 22:03:07 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Cam Bank Angle Saga. Was Crazy Questions?

In a message dated 98-06-22 20:49:04 EDT, you write:

<<  That's actually an interesting observation, Karl (or did SOM come up
    with that).  >>

Yup. I was busy screaming at the wiper motor.

<< If you put a 39 deg cam in a 45 deg block (or vice-versa), could you treat
the motor like two separate inline fours and get some benefit? >>

Whoa! Karl not Cammy!
Do HiPo guys advance cam as much as 6 degrees??????
No wonder they idle rough!

Seriously, I would have severe reservations about that.

But I will try to be Objective.

First. The V-8 almost IS two separate inline fours.

The only thing that really joins them is the crankshaft.
As you have (perhaps unwittingly) suggested, it is very possible to introduce
a cam which could treat each cylinder diferently, and thus certainly each
bank.

Secondly, off of the top of my head I have just concieved of adjustable
ignition, where you can alter the moment of spark for each individual
cylinder.

Paging Dave Smith!

Or has this been invented already?

Anyway.
Thirdly, just as you can tune your exhaust with different size primaries....
And BTW manifolds AND headers essentially treat each as a separate bank.

Headers are just the first step away from two banks to individual exhaust
pipes, where you size each individual primary to whatever the range that
desire a torque peak.

My intuition is that tuning each cylinder different is bad.
I also feel that tuning the banks differently would be bad.

Probably break something with constructive harmonic frequencies or something.

But if I might interject here...

<<...the short pushrods will cause gapping between the pushrod tip and rocker
cup - with fatal consequences for your valvetrain. (not to mention the
clatter) >>

OK, got it.

Question.
Say I have a new, bigger cam.
How should I know what length pushrod should be?
When I am at preload, how do I confirm rocker arm geometry?

From the FAQ index, I do not see that these are addressed, and Chassis manual
does not go into aftermarket cam swaps.

Thanks.

BTW: Will the J-2 tri-power manifold (371cid per FAQ) bolt onto a 1964 394
with no mods?

TIA

KA
arguing with SOM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 22:08:13 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: How do you get even with your car?

In a message dated 98-06-22 21:06:41 EDT, you write:

<< Spent the whole trip from Dallas Tx, to Lynchburg Va up under my 67
 banging the solenoid with a big ole screwdriver.... >>

Whoa! While driving!

That'll teach it a lesson!

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 22:19:52 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: 72 Supreme

Well gang I found and bought a 72 supreme today.  Not a bad car, not to
sure whether  I want to part the car or take a shot at selling it complete
- --- of course less the centerlines and tires.
As for  the car it runs and drives good, has disc brakes, buckets and
console, sport mirrors,  350 4bbl, dual exhaust.  Now the body need some
work, you know 1/4 patches and fender heal, and the bumpers have seen many
other car bumpers in parking lot wars.  Oh and one more real nice part ----
A 4 Core Rad ---.  Now the rims and tires will come off and the 4 core will
be hidin' in my shed, But what do you all think, should I sell it, and if I
do what price range would be more then fair to the next guy.   Oh I payed
$400 for it   thats $280 US for you Yanks. I was thinking around $600 or
so.  I am going to do a compresssion test and see just how good the engine
is, but it drove real nice.  I also will replace the rims and tires with a
set of SSII's and new tires, just to be fair.  The interior except for the
buckets is real clean and very nice.  The car has a black vinyl roof and
real decent chrome.
I let you all know what happens and which direction it all end up.

Later folks

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 19:17:42 -0700
From: "michael burlingame" <miburli@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: am i an idiot...?

I would check for slop in my u-joints... It does it under load and coasting
huh?... I'd still check my u-joints because they do strange things when they
go.
- -----Original Message-----
From: SxyIrshman@aol.com <SxyIrshman@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, June 22, 1998 3:18 PM
Subject: am i an idiot...?


>took out my 4spd manual in my 73 442, and dropped in a th350..(350 eng) and
>now i have this really severe vibration in the floor and body of the
>car....but not in the steering wheel (so i think it must be a rear problem)
>and i'm clueless, it starts at 40 or so and is there in d,2,1 and neutral,
but
>there are no other strange noises otherwise...could it be a wheel/tire
>problem? the wheelwhieghts are still on, and up to 40, it's fine...when
>accelerating through 40, it starts and doesn't stop...help!!!
>
>mike...
>73 442
>85 mustang
>79 f-150

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 22:42:05 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: GM website - GM resto Catalogue

Hi gang!

I was trying to inquire as to the copyright holder of the TH-(bible) when I
discovered something.

People who comment to GM fill out a mini-survey!

When inquiring about your vehicle they prevent entries other than pre-1980.

They do leave a blank for the MODEL.......

So I have a request.

Would those people who happily own models that Oldsmobile has abandoned kindly
visit and offer GM some comments?

No outright panning please. We need to establish a good reputation.

And early 4 4 2 owners, it is OK to write 4 4 2 instead of F-85.  :)

Ready?

Lets show them how much of a market is not being properly tapped.

Which brings me to...

The new (?) GM Restoration Parts Catalogue will become available in August.
You can pre-order now at (888) 245-5800

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 22:47:15 EDT
From: <JCRASH7@aol.com>
Subject: Opinions on what to do

As you all know by now, I have an 84 Delta 88, and that's my main form of
transportation.  I can't really count on my Cadillac, even though it runs
fine, I just wouldn't take it on a long road trip.  After my tune up last
Saturday, they told me my engine should have at LEAST 100,000 miles left on
it, and it SHOULD run to at least 300,000 miles (currently has 170,00) because
it has had perfect maintenance for it's whole life.  They also told me my
tranny has a leak in the seal or something like that, and that is a big deal.
I just had a rebuilt one put in 3 years ago, so this should not be happening.
The body isn't exactly in perfect shape, little spots of rust popping up
everywhere, but not so much as to call it bad.  I also think the rear end is
starting to go bad, and the compresser for the AC is shot, and I have some big
freeon leak too.
     I've always wanted a Cutlass ever since we got our 81 in 1990 or so, but
that's gone.  You can't find any Cutli up here (MN), that aren't ravaged by
rust, or a bad engine.  My grandpa has been trying to persuade me into a new
car, because he thinks I need a new car also, but I can't afford it (AT ALL).
What my plan would be to find an 81-87 Cutlass/442/Hurst/Olds with a really
nice body, tranny and rear end, but a bad engine.  I would also have to find
someone to swap the engine from my Delta into it for a low cost also, because
I know I can't do it myself.  I would then part out the rest of the Delta and
sell the interior, bumpers, etc... that are in good shape to anyone who needs
them, then sell whatever's left to the junkyard.
     Also, what I might do is sell the whole thing, including the engine, to a
friend at the garage who offered $3 grand for it.  I declined to sell when he
offered, but now I'm thinking about that too.
     BTW, it looks a lot nicer with the new hupcap (Thanks Greg), and with my
flawless vinyl roof, I could probably squeeze that $3000 out of some sucker, I
mean buyer.
     I don't plan on doing this for at least a year or so, so please don't
give me offers for Cutli yet, I'll email the list when I need that. :)

Any thoughts apreciated,
Joe Sherbanenko
84 Delta 88 Royale Brougham Coupe
88 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
http://www.oldsmobile.home.ml.org
~OR~
http://oldsmobile.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 22:55:51 -0400
From: talcarol@erie.net (Chris Kugler)
Subject: need help with VIN numbers(non-olds)

Can anybody out there help me break down a VIN code for me.  A friend of
mine is looking to purchase a 1970 Terd Torino 429 Cobra Jet.  The car's
actually not that bad.  He wants to determine if the numbers match.  If you
can help e-mail me and I'll send you the numbers.

Thanks,

Chris Kugler
1977 Cutlass S 442

talcarol@erie.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 23:03:03 -0400
From: "derricklclark" <derricklclark@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re:FLASHING HOT LIGHT

I recently had to change my upper radiator hose
because my fan had chipped away a small section.
Not knowing this I changed the thermostat first.
Now my hot light flashes but the car doesnt run hot.

Can someone tell me what this could be and how can I
keep the fan from chipping the hose?

                                                                  Derrick
                                                                    72 cut
sup conv 455
- ----Original Message-----
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, June 19, 1998 7:35 PM
Subject: Re: Hubcaps


>Tom:
>
>  I currently have wire caps on my delta but they have a small center
>cap. The ones from the 81 Regency have a center cap that is 4-5 inches
>across.
>And yes mine look very nice.
>
>Mark Hahn
>mahahn@fuse.net
>75 Delta 88 Royale Conv.
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 19:54:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joe Padavano <joe_padavano@rocketmail.com>
Subject: More on Short Pushrods

Get your minds out of the gutter!

I was thinking about my response to Karl and SOM on the use of short pushrods
to mitigate cam problems, and I need to add to it.  Karl had the right idea,
but his execution was flawed.  If you're coming in late, Karl has suggested
that using short pushrods would mitigate some of the cam timing problems with
running a 39 deg cam in a 45 deg block.  I noted that if the pushrods were set
up to give the proper lifter preload, the only effect would be to mess up the
rocker to valve geometry.  I should have also noted, however, that what I
think Karl meant to say was to use more valve lash to mitigate the cam
problems.  By increasing lash, you have effectively "wasted" the first few
degrees of cam motion, albeit at the expense of significantly increased rocker
"clatter" (and potentially ultimately fatigue damage to the rockers).  This
has the same effect as a less radical cam - in fact, this is an old trick for
making a too-big solid lifter cam work in a motor.  Note I said solid lifter;
trying this trick on the normal hydraulic lifters in an Olds motor will
obviously mess up the oft-discussed lifter preload.

Note also that this is the basic idea behind Rhodes variable duration lifters.
 Rhodes came up with the idea of using lifters with a higher than normal
leak-down rate as a way to run a more radical cam on the street.  The basic
idea is that at low RPM the leak rate in the lifter is high enough to
effectively increase lash in the valvetrain and thus make the cam seem less
radical (again, by "wasting" part of the cam lobe motion in taking up this
extra lash).  As RPMs increased (into the range where you'd _want_ to use this
radical cam), the lifters couldn't leak down fast enough and thus the extra
lash was effectively taken out, making the valves follow the full lobe
profile.  The big drawback was the excessive valvetrain noise at idle due to
this extra lash.

Variable valve timing has long been a goal of automakers as a way to get
increased power without the driveability sacrifices of a peaky, high-output
engine.  With the advent of computer controls a number of such systems have
been offered to the public, some using split cam lobes, others using hydraulic
or electromechanical actuators to change the cam timing.  As an aside, the
notorious Caddy V8-6-4 engines (are these things collectable yet?) used
hydraulic actuators under the rocker pivots to raise the rocker and deactivate
that cylinder in an attempt to increase gas milage.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30





_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 22:58:45, -0500
From: NUUZ96A@prodigy.com (MR MICHAEL J GROMMES)
Subject: looking for parts

I am looking for a good condition header panel for a 1976 olds
cutlass supreme.  I am also looking for a hood and turn
signal/parking lights.  If you have aor know somebody who does please
E-mail at NUUZ96A@Prodigy.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 23:05:53 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: How do you get even with your car?

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 98-06-22 21:06:41 EDT, you write:
>
> << Spent the whole trip from Dallas Tx, to Lynchburg Va up under my 67
>  banging the solenoid with a big ole screwdriver.... >>
>
> Whoa! While driving!
>
> That'll teach it a lesson!
>
was going along ok until I ran over that dead possum....
> KA
> &SOM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 23:11:08 EDT
From: <JCRASH7@aol.com>
Subject: Non olds, but EXTREMELY funny

Everybody go to http://members.aol.com/doggiesnot .  It is the funniest
website I've every seen.  It's "How to Drive Like a Moron".

Joe Sherbanenko
84 Delta 88 Royale Brougham Coupe
88 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
http://www.oldsmobile.home.ml.org
~OR~
http://oldsmobile.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 22:13:52 -0500
From: "Ryan Hehn" <ryanh@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: 86 Cutlass guage package

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BD9E2B.09D6DB20
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I recently picked up a guage package to replace the wide sweep =
speedometer. =20

I noticed that there's a bulb in the temp. idiot light.  If I put one in =
the oil/choke idiot light, would it work?  I'm curious because I might =
put the package in before I buy the sending units.

Thanks in advance,

Ryan Hehn


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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I recently picked up a guage package =
to replace=20
the wide sweep speedometer.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I noticed that there's a bulb in the =
temp. idiot=20
light.&nbsp; If I put one in the oil/choke idiot light, would it =
work?&nbsp; I'm=20
curious because I might put the package in before I buy the sending=20
units.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks in advance,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Ryan Hehn</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BD9E2B.09D6DB20--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 23:19:36 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Anti-new car was Opinions on what to do

In a message dated 98-06-22 22:49:17 EDT, you write:

<<  My grandpa has been trying to persuade me into a new
 car, because he thinks I need a new car also, but I can't afford it (AT ALL).
>>

The following is the *opinion* of Karl Aune and for all you know could be a
hallucination or just a bad dream.

Do NOT buy a new car.

If the Car payments do not kill you then the insurance payments will!

Your grandfather grew up at a time when a 4 4 2 was less than a year's pay!
(Uhhh....right??  Anyone??)

He probably had a good job for 30-40 years and got a pension.

Guess what!

More and more companies are ELIMINATING the pension plan because of the
blossoming of investment plans (and to save money, the dirty.........) like
401K, money market......

I could buy a 1969 Vista Cuiser tomorrow (except I would miss a day of work)
for $600. Yes I would have to invest maybe $300 in tires $50 in battery and
$200 or so for brake lines. Plus straightening out title (all persons involved
known). But I am still talking only $1200!

But you seem to be a fan of 1980's Oldsmobiles.
I understand.
I, personally, will never buy anything with EGR (unless I can rip it off and
stay legal!) and prefer the full-size cars.

Tell you what! Save your money. Go to the car corral of the next big Oldmobile
Show. Make an offer. Show him the money. (Nothing melts a seller's heart like
money in hand)

There are pristine 1980's Oldsmobiles on the road that do not know that they
are for sale.

Next time you see a car you really like, ask how much they want for it.

(I would advise against asking this of Bravada and Aurora owners.
$$$$$! )

Good Luck!

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 23:29:37 EDT
From: <Oldsparts@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  RE: 68-69 442 Convertible for sale

Tom-
Your a good man.  Thanks for the info!
Steve

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 23:31:34 EDT
From: <JCRASH7@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Anti-new car was Opinions on what to do

In a message dated 98-06-22 23:23:00 EDT, you write:

<< The following is the *opinion* of Karl Aune and for all you know could be a
 hallucination or just a bad dream.

 Do NOT buy a new car.

 If the Car payments do not kill you then the insurance payments will!

 Your grandfather grew up at a time when a 4 4 2 was less than a year's pay!
 (Uhhh....right??  Anyone??)

 He probably had a good job for 30-40 years and got a pension.

 Guess what!

 More and more companies are ELIMINATING the pension plan because of the
 blossoming of investment plans (and to save money, the dirty.........) like
 401K, money market......

 I could buy a 1969 Vista Cuiser tomorrow (except I would miss a day of work)
 for $600. Yes I would have to invest maybe $300 in tires $50 in battery and
 $200 or so for brake lines. Plus straightening out title (all persons
involved
 known). But I am still talking only $1200!

 But you seem to be a fan of 1980's Oldsmobiles.
 I understand.
 I, personally, will never buy anything with EGR (unless I can rip it off and
 stay legal!) and prefer the full-size cars.

 Tell you what! Save your money. Go to the car corral of the next big
Oldmobile
 Show. Make an offer. Show him the money. (Nothing melts a seller's heart like
 money in hand)

 There are pristine 1980's Oldsmobiles on the road that do not know that they
 are for sale.

 Next time you see a car you really like, ask how much they want for it.

 (I would advise against asking this of Bravada and Aurora owners.
 $$$$$! )

 Good Luck!

 KA
 &SOM >>

Not to be critical, but that all sounds fine and good, but the only way I
would have my money in my hand would be to sell both cars I have, and ride my
bike untill I find a car I like.  BTW, when I said NEW car, I meant early 90's
(yuck).  My grandpa's really been trying to get me to buy a Saturn Wagon. (NO
WAY).  Like I said, not for another year or so, just getting some sort of a
plan ready.
If he bought me a Saturn, I'd take it, but it would be sold within a matter of
minutes.

Joe Sherbanenko
84 Delta 88 Royale Brougham Coupe
88 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
http://www.oldsmobile.home.ml.org
~OR~
http://oldsmobile.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 23:39:14 -0400
From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: '69 442 for sale ($500)

Hello all -

I found this posted at a Cumberland Farms and figured someone out there
would appreciate it.

1969 442 Holiday Coupe for sale
Location:  Taunton, MA
$500 obo

I checked it out.  '69 442, black all around, burgundy interior.  Needs
alot of work, but is definitely restorable.  Transplanted Rocket 350, TH
350, extra gas tank. Needs floors.  Not running.  10 bolt posi rear.
Anything else, I am not too sure but can find out.  The kicker here is,
the guy who owns it is moving.  If he doesn't sell it by June 30 - it's
going to the yard to be burried with the T*yotas.  The owner is moving
and needs to find it a home.  Some of the chrome is rather good and the
doors are nice as well.
Contact Dana at (508)672-3373 or (508)672-3733.  Tell him the kid from
Stonehill sent you.

- --
- ---------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
WSHL General Manager
http://www.stonehill.edu/wshl
http://wwww.stonehill.edu/~dgerow
- ---------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 20:35:04 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Non olds, but EXTREMELY funny

At 11:11 PM 6/22/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Everybody go to http://members.aol.com/doggiesnot .  It is the funniest
>website I've every seen.  It's "How to Drive Like a Moron".
>

Oh my god !!!!!!!
It's the Spokane WA drivers manual :)
__
The old adage about "The early bird catches the worm", only serves
to prove, that the worm would have been better off if he stayed in bed .
                                                                :Lazarus Long

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 23:43:52 EDT
From: <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Backfires?

In a message dated 98-06-22 18:15:09 EDT, you write:

<<
 Yes, it is popping through the carb.  Sorry, I forgot to mention that!

 Maybe it is too obvious, why will it backfire when it is too lean?  >>

I'm not >exactly< sure why it does that, but it happens.  I'm not sure if it
is just the combustion mixture still trying to ignite (while hot) and moving
up into the intake for some gas?  Maybe someone else can help out here.
Anybody?...


<< When EGR is operating, that tends to lean it out, right?  So if the eng
 is running lean, and the EGR is wide open, leaner yet right?

 I will disconnect the EGR and see how it reacts. >>

When I had that motor in the Cutlass (mine) I had the EGR blocked off
altogether.  seemed to run pretty good like that.  Yes, the EGR makes the
engine run leaner (reburns some of the exhaust, which means less fresh air is
getting into the cylinder).

 <<I have the secondaries running a bit on the rich side, so that explains
 why when I tromp on it the engine runs ok.

 Thomas Martin >>

It's possible that is the case.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 23:47:08 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: More on Short Pushrods  (long)

Sorry about the length, I do not have the heart to cut up Joe's insight!

<<  Get your minds out of the gutter! >>

So.... I should put down my tool?

<< I was thinking about my response to Karl and SOM on the use of short
pushrods
 to mitigate cam problems, and I need to add to it.  Karl had the right idea,
 but his execution was flawed.  >>

So I had the right tool but was getting the wrong job?

<< If you're coming in late, Karl has suggested that using short pushrods
would mitigate some of the cam timing problems with running a 39 deg cam in a
45 deg block. I noted that if the pushrods were set
 up to give the proper lifter preload, the only effect would be to mess up the
rocker to valve geometry.  I should have also noted, however, that what I
think Karl meant to say was to use more valve lash to mitigate the cam
problems. >>

Joe not read Email. Karl not cammy. Don't stop, sound good.

<< By increasing lash, you have effectively "wasted" the first few degrees of
cam motion, albeit at the expense of significantly increased rocker "clatter"
(and potentially ultimately fatigue damage to the rockers).  This has the same
effect as a less radical cam - in fact, this is an old trick for making a too-
big solid lifter cam work in a motor.  Note I said solid lifter; trying this
trick on the normal hydraulic lifters in an Olds motor will obviously mess up
the oft-discussed lifter preload. >>

How would this apply to roller cams?

<< Note also that this is the basic idea behind Rhodes variable duration
lifters.  Rhodes came up with the idea of using lifters with a higher than
normal leak-down rate as a way to run a more radical cam on the street.  The
basic idea is that at low RPM the leak rate in the lifter is high enough to
effectively increase lash in the valvetrain and thus make the cam seem less
radical (again, by "wasting" part of the cam lobe motion in taking up this
extra lash).  As RPMs increased (into the range where you'd _want_ to use this
radical cam), the lifters couldn't leak down fast enough and thus the extra
lash was effectively taken out, making the valves follow the full lobe
profile. The big drawback was the excessive valvetrain noise at idle due to
this extra lash.  >>

So.... Eureka! A Rhodes-type pushrod! Necessarily bigger than normal, but
compresses *slightly* (due to leakdown or some such nonsense) to lessen
clatter and perhaps also reduce wear depending on the media used!

Paging Dave Smith!

<< Variable valve timing has long been a goal of automakers as a way to get
increased power without the driveability sacrifices of a peaky, high-output
engine.  With the advent of computer controls a number of such systems have
been offered to the public, some using split cam lobes, others using hydraulic
 or electromechanical actuators to change the cam timing.  As an aside, the
notorious Caddy V8-6-4 engines (are these things collectable yet?) used
hydraulic actuators under the rocker pivots to raise the rocker and deactivate
that cylinder in an attempt to increase gas milage.
 Joe Padavano >>[and his flying circus of musclecars that YAHOOOOOO!]

{well I had to cut somewhere!}

Actually, although somewhat distasteful to a staunch V-8 man, Karl understands
the Caddy mentality there. WOT? V-8.  Maintaining constant velocity on a
straightaway? V-6. Coasting (or parked)? V-4.

Thanks Joe,

BTW what is valve lash? The pushrod gap that is bad?

I'll get back to you on this  when my head stops spinning.
Ooops, sorry. It is not my head. Just the whole room.

Nevermind.

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 23:46:45 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: 455 weight

Hi all,

Would someone out there know how much a 455 weighs?

TIA,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 23:51:42 EDT
From: <CMertz100@aol.com>
Subject: Olds 455 motor on GMC Motorhome

I'm trying to locate a pulley for the power steering pump.  Can you recommend
somewhere I can find one?  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 21:06:43 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: 455 weight

RANDY A GEISEL wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Would someone out there know how much a 455 weighs?
>
> TIA,
> Randy


Randy,
Depending on the year, a 455 will weigh approx. 600-650 lbs (Less
accessories).
- --
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 00:13:09 -0400
From: Jim & Jo Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 455 weight

Randy

         They weight about 650 lbs with everything on them and all the 
brackets.

Jim Chermack

At 11:46 PM 6/22/1998 -0000, you wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>Would someone out there know how much a 455 weighs?
>
>TIA,
>Randy
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 00:15:32 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Backfires?

In a message dated 98-06-22 23:46:40 EDT, you write:

<< Maybe it is too obvious, why will it backfire when it is too lean?  >>

It is odd, but the same thing happens in firearms.

Apparently when too little cartridge space is take up by gunpowder, and too
much by air (always some powder and air) a weapon-destructive detonation can
take place.

Several priceless rifles have been lost this way.

<<When EGR is operating, that tends to lean it out, right? >>

Wrong!
EGR flows exhaust into the cylinders. Ideally this exhaust is previously
combusted and inert (should not burn)!

In reality the exhaust can be partially unburnt (some gasoline residuals). But
I will ignore that for this purpose.

When EGR (I hate talking about this!) is functioning, some (what we will
suppose is unburnable) exhaust flows into the cylinders along with the fuel
and air. The effect of this is to make your 455 (or whatever) act like a 307
(or whatever else). The idea is to allow less fuel/air with hot inert gas to
make combustion more efficient.

The ratio is not leaner, it just takes up space due to EGR gasses.
Now if you BLOCKED the EGR gasses, that would be a leaner mix because the carb
wil flow the same amount of gasoline, but the additional vaccuum in the
cylinders caused by lack of EGR gasses (which are blocked off) would draw more
air in through the carb and THAT would be a leaner condition!

And that is also why you should not run an EGR Q-jet on a non EGR car without
modifications to the Q-jet!

I hope I did not confuse you...

KA
&SOM


If you need to flow less gasoline, switch to a 2 barrel carburetor.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 22:41:14 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Project Blackout underway & H/O Question

Well, since it finally quit raining yesterday, I set out to fix my sagging 
grill
on the 83.  Then I got some hairbrained idea to go crazy.  Pulled out my spare
81 CSB grilles, and a spare set of headlight trims, and a spare set of 
taillight
trims, and shot 'em all gloss black.  Dug out my spare side lights, and stuck
pinstripes on 'em, and then painted them, too.  Pulled the stripes off today
after work.  Perfect.  Stuck all the stuff on tonight.  Car has a certain
~attitude~ about it now!  Looks pretty cool, if I do say so myself.  Stuck some
spare backup light housings on for the day, while I...  do... ~something~ with
the other ones.  Not sure what, just yet.  That chrome trim on the trunk lip
will need to either go or get shot, too.  Not sure how far I'm going to go with
this, there comes a point where chromeless becomes tasteless.  I've gotta pull
that hideous doording stripping off.  Soon.  Since the car has the bottom 
chrome
mouldings, I won't be painting the bumpers...  yet...  Windshield trim might
need some, though.  Door chrome?  Not sure.  Hood trim?  Hmm...  Sounds like a
good candidate.  Maybe mimic "super442"s and just pull the whole thing off and
fill it!  That looks clean.  Don't know if I want to go ~that~ far for such a
whimsical idea.  (Whole thing started out as a "what the hell" thing)  I
~should~ be spending my free time getting the engine ~out~ of the Toro and
~into~ the Rockit!  HP withdrawals!!!

Just out of curiosity, did the 15th anniversary H/O have this similar blackout
treatment?  I can't recall for sure.  The one I saw in Havre had the taillight
chrome, headlight chrome, entire grilles, ~and~ hood trim painted black.  
Looked
good, but faded.  Didn't think the hood trim was supposed to be black.  Not
sure.  It had the grey on the bottom repainted black, so I'm not sure.  Never
seen a ~real~ one up close and personal before.  Any 83 H/O owners care to
enlighten???  TIA
- --
The Oldsmobile Magnet -- Charley Buehner@Sidney Montana
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com or mailto:charley@rocketship.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner  -- Oldsmagnet Homepage
OldsList Vital Info: http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 22:36:38 -0500
From: Albert Meyer <Olds@AustinTX.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Air Cleaner Recommendations

When I drag-raced, I cut a hole in my hood and got the biggest tallest K&N
I could get (more surface area = more air flow). If you're going real fast
you may have to consider aerodynamics, but if you're running anything over
10 seconds I wouldn't worry about it. K&N's seem to offer the best
combination of low restriction and durability, but you do have to remember
to oil it. A K&N without oil will still stop the big chunks, but the dust
goes right through. It's like putting a few thousand miles on your motor
every time you go down the strip.

I wouldn't recommend running without a filter unless you don't mind
trashing your motor. I do know people who race without one for months and
have no problem, but I wouldn't do it. All it takes is one little nugget of
something harder than your piston...

Since we're talking about airflow, when I put a homemade scoop on my hood,
it did decrease my time. I think it was the cheapest (and ugliest)
performance mod I ever made.

At 11:49 AM 6/22/98 -0300, you wrote:
>From:	"Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
>Subject: Air Cleaner question
>
>What's the best after market Air Cleaner and when you race your Oldsmobiles
>do you take the air cleaner off or do you keep it on.  The one I have (The
>Edelbrok:EDL-1002 from summit) seems to be holding me back.  My car runs a
>whole lot faster without it.  I don't like running without it though. Please
>H*lp
>
>
>
>===========================
>Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
>===========================
>

'68 98 Convertible 455 - Still looking for a parts car
Austin, Texas mailto:Olds@AustinTX.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 23:43:14 -0500
From: Jake Biehl <IronEagl2@hotmail.com>
Subject: Is anyone getting this?

To Everyone and Anyone
  I have a '82 Firenza with 1.8l, 112ci, TH125, 2bbl carb. Does anyone
have any info on this car I picked it up awhile ago for $400, it has 68k
on it, almost no rust, very clean, only major thing wrong is the plastic
trim like around the rear wheel wells in the interior is powdering off.
It is my second car both being Oldsmobiles. I am also thinking about
doing a resto job on my '77 98 what would this car be worth if I did a
complete resto on it? And what is my little Firenza worth? I have been
trying to decode the VIN's on these but all the sites I come upon don't
list all the info I need. The two Vin's Are: 3X37K7E****** And
1G3AC77G2CK****** minus the last 6 digits in both. During my resto I
will probably have tons of questions for everyone. I have one last
question that is bugging the hell out of me, the Firenza pinged rather
heavily going up hills and out of a dead stop but went away under light
throttle, since then I switched to 92 octane fuel and it went away but
it is still has no "Pep". the last owner said he changed the timing
belt, fuel filter and little misc stuff, and I have done a fuel system
cleaner at work and still nothing better. Any suggestions would be
welcome.
Jake
1982 Olds Firenza S Coupe 112ci/TH125
1977 Olds Ninety-Eight Regency 403ci/TH400
ironeagl2@hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 00:54:23 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: 455 weight

Last time a weighed one was  657 lbs Fully dressed

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)


- ----------
> From: RANDY A GEISEL <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 455 weight
> Date: Monday, June 22, 1998 7:46 PM
>
> Hi all,
>
> Would someone out there know how much a 455 weighs?
>
> TIA,
> Randy
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 00:56:16 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: TH-350 to TH-400 swap - Dual gate linkage won't hook up! HELP!

I swapped a TH-350 to a TH-400. The Dual gate linkage does not hook-up,
what must I do? Is there a different bracket I can buy, if so, from where??

Thanks,
Peter

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 05:22:30 -0700
From: "Elizabeth Katryn Burton" <aunt_bess@mailexcite.com>
Subject: RE: 68-69 442 Convertible for sale

Greg:

There were two of these in my mailbox this morning -- second will follow. Not
sure how they got here. Oh, well, it's been that kind of week so far.

Lisa
- ---
***
http://members.tripod.com/~Borogrove/index.html
<a href="http://members.tripod.com/~Borogrove/glass2.html">Through The Looking
Glass</a>


>_SUBJECTS_
>
>It is a 69, 442, Dark Green.  The car has a 400 (He advertised on the
>window Big Block), THM400, Located in Harvard, Ill.  AC, Console,
>factory looking shifter, cloth interior (black), unk miles, could not
>read it.  It has the correct appearing  bumper with exhaust tip slots,
>and tips coming through it.  The car has alum slots, (not bad looking)
>probably air shocks as back end of car is a little high (I would not
>have it that high!), it has 245 60 15's on back, 215 60 15's on the
>front.
>
>The phone number is 815-943-4721, the guys name is Brad Davis.  Overall
>it is a pretty clean ride, no rust showing, looks solid.  Sits in a
>driveway.
>
>I have not vested interest in the car, so in otherwords, I won't make a
>dime off it, I just noticed it and figured I would let the list know so
>if anyone was looking, here one is.
>
>Thomas Martin
>85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
>91 Bonneville LE 3800
>80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac
>
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: D Frizsell [mailto:dfrizsell@WCUVAX1.WCU.EDU]
>Sent: Friday, June 19, 1998 3:49 PM
>To: Thomas Martin
>Subject: Re: 68-69 442 Convertible for sale
>
>
>Thomas,
>If it's a 68 I might be interested. But only if it's a good price. I
>certainly don't need another car but I really like the 68 convertibles.
>Again, the guy would have to be willing to deal on the car or else I
>could do nothing. To much else going on to spend to much on another car.
>If you find out the year and his asking price, let me know.
>Thanks
>D-man
>
>
>
>Thomas Martin wrote:
>
>> I stumbld across a 68-69 (not up on those years!  Sorry!) 442
>> convertible for sale near me, it is off the beaten path, but a fine
>> looking car from where I have seen it.
>
>


Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere!
http://www.mailexcite.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 05:24:16 -0700
From: "Elizabeth Katryn Burton" <aunt_bess@mailexcite.com>
Subject: Backfires?

Here's the second message.
Lisa
- ---
***
http://members.tripod.com/~Borogrove/index.html
<a href="http://members.tripod.com/~Borogrove/glass2.html">Through The Looking
Glass</a>


>_SUBJECTS_
>
>What sort of conditions cause backfires.  I know timing, but what on a
>computer controlled car will cause a under load backfire?
>
>Mine does it when the engine is under load, say 45 mph, TCC engaged,
>2.14 gears, the A/C on and engine hot (normal traffic temp).  I have a
>180 degree thermostat, but no gauges.
>
>The engine is a 1977 350, running the stock 307 "Y" ECM and sensors.
>Never any fault codes.
>
>Just wondering.  It is not excessive, but unless I tromp on it, it is
>sluggish, backfires, then I get mad and stand on it.  She is fine
>then.....
>
>
>Does this condition ring a bell with anyone?  What will cause any engine
>to backfire if the timing is right?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Thomas Martin
>85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
>91 Bonneville LE 3800
>80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac
>
>


Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere!
http://www.mailexcite.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 08:48:02 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Air Cleaner Recommendations

>
> What's the best after market Air Cleaner and when you race your Oldsmobiles
> do you take the air cleaner off or do you keep it on.  The one I have (The
> Edelbrok:EDL-1002 from summit) seems to be holding me back.  My car runs a
> whole lot faster without it.  I don't like running without it though. Please
> H*lp

One of my friends experimented at Milan. He actually got better times
without the air cleaner. He said he could pull a few more R's with it
off, but on, it just felt like it was loafing when he got to the top of
the gear

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
         777777 33333
            77      33
Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
          77        33
         77     33333
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 08:56:06 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: am i an idiot...?

SxyIrshman@aol.com wrote:
>
> took out my 4spd manual in my 73 442, and dropped in a th350..(350 eng) and

Hmmmm...do you still want that 4 spd??????????
I could always take it off your hands........

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
         777777 33333
            77      33
Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
          77        33
         77     33333
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 05:50:56 -0700
From: "Elizabeth Katryn Burton" <aunt_bess@mailexcite.com>
Subject: But, officer...

Just a word of warning, gentlemen. If you're driving
through PA and you tell the fella in the uniform that
your speedo read "XX" when his little radar gun said
you were going "XX++", he will smilingly suggest you
get it checked as he hands you your contribution to
PA EMS services.

In the Keystone State, law says you own the car, it's
your responsibility to be sure the speedometer is
correct. Just ask my son :-}.

Lisa
- ---
***
http://members.tripod.com/~Borogrove/index.html
<a href="http://members.tripod.com/~Borogrove/glass2.html">Through The Looking
Glass</a>




Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere!
http://www.mailexcite.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 07:52:43 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: torque specs

Does someone know what I should torque the valve cover bolts to?  Also,
so I don't have to ask again, what about the water pump bolts?  I
thought I had these numbers somewhere but can't seem to find them.  The
motor in question is a 72 455.
The factory service manual probably has these right?  I plan on getting
one in Springfield, should have got one in Lansing but the prices ranged
anywhere from $40 - $75 with most being on the higher end.  Thanks in
advance.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31 (with a new heart, temporarily)
1969 4-4-2 parts carplus others

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 09:02:02 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Need some opinions..!!!

Buy the car. Keep the wheels, Sell the car

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 09:10:19 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: 86 Cutlass guage package

> I noticed that there's a bulb in the temp. idiot light.  If I put one
> in the oil/choke idiot light, would it work?  I'm curious because I
> might put the package in before I buy the sending units.


Ryan,

Hohn McJunkin sent me instructions on how to "rewire" for the gage
package.  Check it out.  It's at the bottom of my Olds picture page.

http://www.xtalwind.net/~hurstolds/rocket2.html

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 08:21:26 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: Window Tint

I live in Southeast WI, and my 91 Bonneville has 20% in the back,
nothing in the front, no officer has bothered me, yet......  It is a
4dr, family car, so they probably have less reason to harass.  It looks
dark too.  I did it when I was in Colorado to keep the sun away from the
newborn.  Still helps a lot on keeping the sun out of the little ones
tender eyes.  (Good excuse to a cop if you are desperate!!)  My wife has
said several studies have shown that the bright sun has caused damage in
little ones eyes, so I am trying to protect that.

My Cutlass may get some tint this year.

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac


- -----Original Message-----
From: Padavano.Joe@orbital.com [mailto:Padavano.Joe@orbital.com]
Sent: Monday, June 22, 1998 7:23 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Window Tint



Robert F. Newbegin Jr. wrote:

...Wisconsin law says the darkest legal tint is 50/50 on the
front door windows and 65/35 back.
(xx/yy - the xx is the percent of light blocked out, the yy is the
visible
light allowed through)...

   Am I the only one bothered by this?  In what appears to be a classic
   case of the government over-specifying a requirement, doesn't the
second
   number by definition have to be 100 minus the first number?  It would
be
   kind of hard (well amazing, actually) to have, say, 65/45 tint, or
50/90
   tint, wouldn't it?

   (OK, Chris Witt mode off)

   Joe Padavano
   padavano.joe@orbital.com

   66 442
   68 W-30
   69 H/O
   70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 08:25:38 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: am I an idiot...?

FWIW the 76 Olds service manual says if there is a vibration and the
Torque Converter is suspect, to rotate the TC 120 degrees, bolt it back
up and test drive, see if the vibration is a tc to flex plate balance
issue.  Do this 3x, as you already are in one position, and this will
rotate you through back to where you are now.

Good Luck!

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 08:39:36 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@leadbelt.com
Subject: Re: free heat shrink tube

Chris Witt said:

<snipped>. He got a lot of neat items for his
>money.
>
At the risk of "me too-ism,"  I have always gotten MORE than my money's
worth & more than I've ordered from Chris Witt.

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 09:33:34 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: torque specs

Smetana, Christopher wrote:
>
> Does someone know what I should torque the valve cover bolts to?  Also,
> so I don't have to ask again, what about the water pump bolts?

Valve covers- 7 ft-lbs.

Water pump-  front cover attaching bolts through pump- 25 ft-lbs.
self tapping screws (top and bottom pair)- 13 ft-lbs

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 08:39:52 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: torque specs

As for the valve cover bolts, use a small 1/4" drive socket wrench.
With the "head" of the socket wrench in your palm, use your thumb and
index finger on the handle, which is pointing away from you.  Then you
won't over-tighten them, just snug them down a little bit.

For the water pump, they should be pretty tight.

If you have a torque wrench.  13ft/lbs for the water pump    7ft/lbs
for the valve cover bolts.
 Caution: these are 1971 specs....'72 could be way different.
(actually, they're most likely not)

- -greg



- -----Original Message-----
From: Smetana, Christopher <csmetana@dowagro.com>
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, June 23, 1998 8:55 AM
Subject: torque specs


>Does someone know what I should torque the valve cover bolts to?
Also,
>so I don't have to ask again, what about the water pump bolts?  I
>thought I had these numbers somewhere but can't seem to find them.
The
>motor in question is a 72 455.
>The factory service manual probably has these right?  I plan on
getting
>one in Springfield, should have got one in Lansing but the prices
ranged
>anywhere from $40 - $75 with most being on the higher end.  Thanks in
>advance.
>
>Chris Smetana
>Terre Haute, IN
>work: csmetana@dowagro.com
>
>1969 W-31 (with a new heart, temporarily)
>1969 4-4-2 parts carplus others

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 08:41:14 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Air Cleaner Recommendations

I use a big K&N 14x4 element.  It should flow enough for two engines.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, June 23, 1998 8:43 AM
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Air Cleaner Recommendations


>>
>> What's the best after market Air Cleaner and when you race your
Oldsmobiles
>> do you take the air cleaner off or do you keep it on.  The one I
have (The
>> Edelbrok:EDL-1002 from summit) seems to be holding me back.  My car
runs a
>> whole lot faster without it.  I don't like running without it
though. Please
>> H*lp
>
>One of my friends experimented at Milan. He actually got better times
>without the air cleaner. He said he could pull a few more R's with it
>off, but on, it just felt like it was loafing when he got to the top
of
>the gear
>
>--
>*************
>Matt Cremean
>mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
>+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
>         777777 33333
>            77      33
>Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
>          77        33
>         77     33333
>+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
>http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
>**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 08:39:07 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: torque specs

Thanks Mike.  I thought 7 ft-lbs on the valve covers might have been
right, but figured I'd better ask to be sure.

Chris Smetana

>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 09:39:30 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: TH-350 to TH-400 swap - Dual gate linkage won't hook up! HELP!

I swapped a TH-350 to a TH-400. The Dual gate linkage does not hook-up,
what must I do? Is there a different bracket I can buy, if so, from where??
Thanks,
Peter

     Peter,

     The bracket that holds the cable on the transmission is different
     between the TH350 and TH400.  Unfortunately, I don't know if these are
     available repro yet.  Check with Jim Chermack.

     Joe Padavano
     padavano.joe@orbital.com

     66 442
     68 W-30
     69 H/O
     70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 08:44:10 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: torque specs

Thanks, Greg.  And yes I have a torque wrench

Chris Smetana

>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 08:53:25 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: making olds into sportscar vs. buying one

Warning: long post

I've been loosing sleep over this for days, and it's killing me.

I've reached that point where I either need to commit major dollars to
my Cutlass, or sell it right now and get something else.  Let me
explain...

It's a '71 cutlass convertible and over the past six years I've spent
$15,000 on it.  It has 40,000 miles on all mechanicals.  Has a "built"
350, TH-350 tranny, new rear posi 3.08 rear.  All new brakes,
suspension (front/rear swaybars, springs, poly bushings), etc.

It's a great cruising car, and runs mid/high 14 second 1/4 miles
times.  It's my only car and I drive it every day.

But I don't want a cruising car, I want a balls-out fast sportscar.  I
could spend another $15,000+ on my car to do it: 455 with aluminum
heads, 6-speed overdrive tranny, 17" wheels, new top, new paint and
sheetmetal (I already have the new doors and quarter panels), better
bucket seals, rollbar with harnesses,etc.  Or sell it right now for
$9000 and buy something that already has all the high performance
stuff, like a Mustang Cobra (with a bolt in supercharger), or a Vette,
or maybe even a twin turbo Japanese car (300zx, supra, RX-7)

I've been going back and forth over this matter.  It seems the
sportscar will cost more in the long run (loan interest,etc.), but the
money spent on the Olds will never be recovered if it gets wrecked or
I have to sell it.

I would appreciate any advice, ideas, etc.

Also, no flames about considering other makes/models of non-olds cars.
Thank you,

Greg Zimmerman
zimmermangm@msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 08:54:44 -0500
From: "David A. Popadic" <davepop@execpc.com>
Subject: Ok I got get responses on one of my last questions!

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Thanks for everyone's help. I think I found at least 2 sources for my AM =
radio.

Ok a few other things.  I'm looking for the piece of plastic that screws =
into the dash (from behind) that would hold the vent (for a/c) on a 1967 =
Cutlass.  Does anyone think that somebody like Year One would have one =
(I ordered the catalog, but haven't gotten it yet)?

Also still awaiting help on fixing my speedometer (ie different size =
tires and tranny) and it's off!

Also looking for anybody with pictures of either a 66 or 67 Cultass that =
would be interested in swapping pictures (via mail or email) or pictures =
of like a 76 Omega (my first car, which I wish I still had!)

Thanks All!!!!!


- ------=_NextPart_000_01EA_01BD9E84.91290C20
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

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<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks for everyone's help. I think =
I found at=20
least 2 sources for my AM radio.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Ok a few other things.&nbsp; I'm =
looking for the=20
piece of plastic that screws into the dash (from behind) that would hold =
the=20
vent (for a/c) on a 1967 Cutlass.&nbsp; Does anyone think that somebody =
like=20
Year One would have one (I ordered the catalog, but haven't gotten it=20
yet)?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Also still awaiting help on fixing =
my=20
speedometer (ie different size tires and tranny) and it's =
off!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Also looking for anybody with =
pictures of either=20
a 66 or 67 Cultass that would be interested in swapping pictures (via =
mail or=20
email) or pictures of like a 76 Omega (my first car, which I wish I =
still=20
had!)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks All!!!!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_01EA_01BD9E84.91290C20--

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1324
*********************************
