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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1385


oldsmobile-digest       Thursday, July 23 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1385



Re: Ported vacuum to distributer?
Re: ct show
Re:
Re: Olds Nats Pics and probs w/ my 56
Re: transmissions
Re: Olds Nats Pics and probs w/ my 56
Re: Spark trivia, was splitfires, wierd stuff, etc...
Re: transmissions
Re: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?
Re: ct show
Voltage vs Current
re: transmissions
Tee's fixed!!!
Re: transmissions
Re: Ported vacuum to distributer?
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
Re: Spark trivia, was splitfires, wierd stuff, etc...
Brakes still not right
More Olds on TV...
Re: More Olds on TV...
Re: Transmissions
Re: Spark trivia, was splitfires, wierd stuff, etc...
REAR END
Re: transmissions
Re: More Olds on TV...
Re: Brakes still not right
Non-Olds.....web page help (dealership sign pics)
Re: Brakes still not right
70 442 W30 Conv for sale
Re: Voltage vs Current
Still More Olds on TV/movies
Re: More Olds on TV...
question about vacuum
Proportioning valve
UNBOUNCE: REAR END
UNBOUNCE: Re: juice brakes (non-mopar)
Re: Brakes still not right
overdrive trans
A heads instead of J heads
Re: fan clutch question
RE: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?
Re: Brakes still not right
Re: Type O 700R4?
re: 69 442 brake drum color
media for paint stripping??
Parts 4 Sale
Re: transmissions
Re: Brakes still not right
Re: question about vacuum
Front Clip for 68 Cutlass S
69 442 Parts
Re: Front Clip for 68 Cutlass S
OIL PRESSURE GAGE (69 442)
'68 Toro for parts

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 22:07:30 EDT
From: <Knightvd@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Ported vacuum to distributer?

In a message dated 98-07-22 20:51:33 EDT, you write:

<< on any oldsmobile V8 engine, the distributer gets ported vacuum.  you don't
 want advance at an idle, you want it when crusing.  why do you think they
call
 it "vacuum advance"?  because when the engine is above idle, vacuum pulls the
 points or magneto around in the distributer giving the distributer advancd.
 what you said about overheating.......wrong again.  with the timing advanced
 at an idle, the engine will tend to overheat.  look at demolition derby
 cars....they run so much retarded timing, the engine doesn't even like to
run,
 but they can run without water for around 10 minutes.  just trust me on this
 one, i have lots of experience with olds distributers(both points and HEI).
 no matter what brand carb you have, the distributer never gets manifold
 vacuum.  even though a very, very few olds' came from the factory with
 manifold vacuum.  the only reason they did this is because when they put in
 the distributers, if the timing would not advance enough, they used manifold
 vacuum.  this was easier than pulling the distributer and realigning it.
they
 could have been a little smarter, but then again they are factory workers.
  >>

I have owned two 71 Olds', a Delta and a Cutlass and both were set up using a
manifold vacuum hookup.  (I think you may have offended some factory workers
here as well.  I don't think that the reason they came this way was because
they weren't smart enough to realign the distributer.)

I also have a Olds service manual (not factory, don't know what brand since
cover is gone),  it also shows two diagrams for vacuum line routing.  One for
a 260 V8 and one for a 455.  It notes others are similiar.  Both of these
diagrams show the distributer vacuum advance connected to manifold vacuum.
There is also a thermal vacuum switch in line.  On the 260 the line is shown
going to a fitting on the manifold itself.  On the 455 diagram it is going to
the manifold vacuum port on the carb.  It is a clean diagram, if I had a
scanner I would scan it.  The EGR valve is shown going to ported vacuum on the
carb in both.

It seems, however, that the consensus is that the distributer vacuum advance
should go to ported vacuum, and admittedly my 455 setup seems to like the
curve achieved by using ported vacuum better for all out performace.  If I
connect the advance to manifold vacuum it idles smoother and at higher RPMs,
however.  So is there anyone that can clear this up?  As soon as I have time
to hook up my vacuum gage I'll take a look at the amount of vacuum at various
RPMs for ported and manifold vacuum.  This may give some insight into this.

By the way, I always thought retarding your timing will make your car idle/run
hotter.

Vince Knight
71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 22:10:48 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: ct show

- -----Original Message-----
From: RICH6986@aol.com <RICH6986@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, July 21, 1998 11:55 PM
Subject: ct show


>im going to the show in ct in meridan this sunday cause it is only 20 min
from
>my house and this is to anyone that is either going or knows about it what
>time does it start                    can anybody help
>              Rich
>81,82,85 cutlass supreme


From 9 am to 3 pm. Weather looks like it should be less humid by the
weekend - good for the show. There's trophys in 14 classes this year. You'll
see some really nice cars.

BTW where you at? I'm in Wallyworld.

Dave Cullen

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 22:11:39 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re:

In a message dated 98-07-22 20:35:19 EDT, you write:

<<   Have no way of checking or proving it as the car is still in
 Virginia.  Will see if I can get some numbers off of it.  Buddy says
 that he has seen an Olds 700R4 before out of another Delta 88 and
 that they put them in GMC's too.  >>

 Pan of a THM200-4r looks entirely different than a 700-R4. 700-R4 is square.
200-4R has an weird "extension" piece on the end of the pan. GMC, Chev used
same bolt pattern, hence the 700-R4. Easy to tell difference visually. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 22:34:17 EDT
From: <Mr57olds@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Nats Pics and probs w/ my 56

In a message dated 98-07-21 10:38:06 EDT, you write:

<< That 1961 Starfire in Fawn from Mississippi was a car I helped build over
 the phone. He bought the car in boxes literally. We spent hours on the phone
 with running back and forth to my garage to look at mine. He took a 1st place
 but not a senior. >>
I had the privilege of parking directly behind this '61 starfire and it
certainly was a nice car.  Quite an interesting gentleman also.   The head
judge in my class, 57 to 59  got in on the white wall width debate while
judging my car.   I got a first so I guess that was all right.   A great show.
Mr57olds

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 21:39:11 -0500
From: Mike Krumwiede <krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
Subject: Re: transmissions

John M wrote:

> ---Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com> wrote:
>
> > Since I just ordered a TH350 to replace the jetaway, can someone
> tell me
> > exactly what a 700R4 is?
> >
> It's basically,I guess you'd say,"the heavy duty" version of a
> 200R4.

<snip> its designed for higher torque, harder output, the use it in the
Automatic versions of the Corvette. Not sure what kinda car your planning on
putting it in, but, it can take a pretty good beating. Nothing wrong with the
200R4 mind you, but, the 700R4 is a step up in my book. The gearing ratio is
also different, 200 is a bit better off the line acording to car craft, but not
as good top speed or at handleing low end torque. My 2 cents

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 22:55:33 EDT
From: <ANTIQOLDS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Nats Pics and probs w/ my 56

In a message dated 98-07-22 22:37:18 EDT, you write:

<< but not a senior. >>
 I had the privilege of parking directly behind this '61 starfire and it
 certainly was a nice car.  Quite an interesting gentleman also.   The head
 judge in my class, 57 to 59  got in on the white wall width debate while
 judging my car.   I got a first so I guess that was all right.   A great
show.
 Mr57olds
  >>
When he called me and told me he had bought those tires and I told him they
were wrong he was shocked. Coker insisted they were correct. I told him all 61
Fullsize had wide whites except the Starfire. I am glad they didn't hurt him
on that issue, he also took a 1st
   I looked at your car but didn't realize it was you to bad I would have said
hello. Your car is beautiful.


Everett  OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 20:18:37 -0700
From: Eric Spence <ericsp@mail.ocis.net>
Subject: Re: Spark trivia, was splitfires, wierd stuff, etc...

Huh!  I thought voltage carried current?!

Kerry Kroger wrote:

> correction number one current flows from negative to positive voltage goes
> the other way
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andersons <robertan@cfw.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Monday, July 20, 1998 9:51 PM
> Subject: Re: Spark trivia, was splitfires, wierd stuff, etc...

- --
Eric Spence
ericsp@mail.ocis.net
Kamloops, BC, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 22:24:04 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: transmissions

Well my 455 Olds in my 72 has been dyoned an puts out 540 LBS to torque and
440 horsepower. Could a beefed up 200R4 handle that?? The torque monster...
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Mike Krumwiede <krumwiede@mis.highland.cc.il.us>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: transmissions
> Date: Wednesday, July 22, 1998 9:39 PM
>
> John M wrote:
>
> > ---Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com> wrote:
> >
> > > Since I just ordered a TH350 to replace the jetaway, can someone
> > tell me
> > > exactly what a 700R4 is?
> > >
> > It's basically,I guess you'd say,"the heavy duty" version of a
> > 200R4.
>
> <snip> its designed for higher torque, harder output, the use it in the
> Automatic versions of the Corvette. Not sure what kinda car your planning
on
> putting it in, but, it can take a pretty good beating. Nothing wrong with
the
> 200R4 mind you, but, the 700R4 is a step up in my book. The gearing ratio
is
> also different, 200 is a bit better off the line acording to car craft,
but not
> as good top speed or at handleing low end torque. My 2 cents

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 23:16:49 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?

KK, thanks for the info. I don't think it would be the module, as my problem
at least is at low idle only...if it was the module, I would think that the
problem would continue regardless of RPM. I have understand that the module
opens the coil primary circuit when the teeth on the timer and pole piece line
up.(Thank you Haynes) If the module WERE bad, that would cause problems at any
RPM, correct? Anyone?   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 23:19:03 EDT
From: <RICH6986@aol.com>
Subject: Re: ct show

I am in shelton,ct

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 21:22:46 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Voltage vs Current

> Huh!  I thought voltage carried current?!

OK, how about this way.  Voltage is the ~supplier~ of electricity.  Current is
the ~motion~ of electricity.

Higher voltage will allow higher current (providing resistance is unchanged)
However, voltage is a stationary substance (nice, eh? :o )

OK...  Voltage is like, uh, a dead skunk...  Don't go anywhere, but causes
everything around it to move away...  Of course, with voltage, the current
returns to the other side of the origin...  But it sounded good at first.
Hmm...


Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 23:27:36, -0500
From: GQPR12E@prodigy.com ( CLAYTON PIERCE)
Subject: re: transmissions

If this turns out to be real with that D88... I'll do just that... It
would be really awesome if this tranny did turn out to be a 700R4...
but even if it's a 200 4R... I'm not out anything for 125 bucks...
comes with a nice '84 Delta 88 Coupe... sunroof... black... blown-up
307...


> I have yet to see a THM700 R4, so if it exists, please take
pictures and
> document it.  I would like to see it.  Put it on Bryceman's for all
to
> see.  Then scrounge for!

> I would consider a THM700 R4 for OD if I had 2.73 gears in a 76 98
and
> needed extra gearing off the line, but can suck up the wide rpm
change
> when it shifts from 1-2.  Most of th THM700 R4's shift 1-2 at 10
mph, or
> less.

> Thomas Martin
> 85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
> 91 Bonneville LE 3800
> 80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac



Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
GQPR12E@Prodigy.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 21:29:46 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Tee's fixed!!!

Well, after years of fighting the broken T-top latch, I finally cured it!  The
latch, for those unfamiliar, involves two meshed gears hooked to latch rods.
One of the gears stripped out, so the rear rod would not latch.  I had to leave
the trim off, and crank the rod by hand (keep this on topic, OK???  Jeez!)  
This
became very mundane after a very short time...  Finally, I pulled my spare set
of T-tops out of the basement (never have enough parts)  They're out of a 78? I
think.  Anyway, they're ~close~ but won't interchange as a whole...  A few
miknor differences.  However, the latch assembly was identical, I finally
determined...  So...  Heh heh...  It works great, too!!!  Now, if I could just
find that damn trimpiece!!!  I know it's somewhere...  Might be in the trunk of
the 77 Toro at the farm.  Hope so.  I'll be there this weekend, and can look...
I'll sure like having a complete interior finally!  After the break-in, it
stayed ill for a ~long~ time.  Replaced the dash about a year ago, and it was 
as
close as it'd ever been since I bought it.  Now, it seems, this is all that
remains.  Ooooh, soo close.

Now if I could only keep that damn roof from bouncing so much.....  :(

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 23:37:05 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: transmissions

In a message dated 98-07-22 23:18:53 EDT, you write:

<< Well my 455 Olds in my 72 has been dyoned an puts out 540 LBS to torque and
 440 horsepower. Could a beefed up 200R4 handle that?? The torque monster...
 Pettrix@prodigy.net >>


B&M lists their streep/strip THM 700-R4 as capable of handling UP TO 450 ft-
lbs of torque. They of course, don't list the 200-4R. It probably all depends
how they are built, and I bet anything that handles above 450 ft-lbs of torque
will not be very streetable at all.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 23:42:18 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Ported vacuum to distributer?

Olds engines tend to run hot anyway.  The overheating may be if you have
idle speed set too low.  The following is a true to life example of how
SOME engines automatically use manifold vacuum to cool off the engine.
I'll use my car as an example here.  You have the standard equipment
thermo-vacuum switch on a 1969 Hurst/Olds, non-A/C. (Most automatic cars
came with this little doobie, but not ALL.  I believe all A/C equipped
cars had this however, not 100% sure.)  Three hoses are hooked to this
guy.  One hose from the distributor can, one from the carb port, and
another to the intake manifold.  The engine is idling on a 100 degree +
day, with static timing at 8 degrees BTDC.  Engine starts getting hot.
Distributor vacuum which is NORMALLY ported through the switch to the
carb when it's cooler, now switches to the manifold port.  The
distributor now runs on manifold vacuum.  Idle speed increases slightly,
coolant flow increases due to the water pump speed up, and the engine
now should drop in temperature.  When it's cooled off to "reset" the
thermo-vacuum switch, the distributor vacuum switches back to the carb
port.  The cooling in effect came from the advancing of the distributor
at idle.  Bottom line was idle speed increased and water flow increased,
which did the cooling.

This neat little feature was designed to activate only durning hot temps
during idle.

Observations,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 00:01:44 EDT
From: <Spitty1500@aol.com>
Subject: 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S

Paul S: My car has the Rocket 350 V-8, an automatic transmission, the bucket
seats in the front and a rearbench---in olive green...totally original and
flawless. the exterior was just repainted in the original pea (lime)  greenish
color.

options: deluxe radio, power steering, air conditioning, Tinted glass, Super
Stock Rally Wheels, and the vinyl roof

the engine has never been rebuilt and it has 47,000 miles on it

brand new it cost: $4985 (have original window sticker--and all paperwork)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 00:04:43 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Spark trivia, was splitfires, wierd stuff, etc...

>
> Huh!  I thought voltage carried current?!
>
E=IR, Volts=Current(amps)x Resistance (ohms)

Volts is the measurement of electrical POTENTIAL, Current is the
measurement of electron flow (or "hole" flow, whichever you believe) and
resistance of course, measures that resistance to flow [think of this as
electricity friction]

A conductor carries current, and voltage provides the umph to get
electrons to flow.  A poor conductor needs more volts to push the same
amount of current as a good conductor, since it has an inherently high
resistance.  As such, air is not a good conductor, so, if you widen the
plug gap, you get less current flow for the same coil output voltage.
Therefore, if you go with a bigger voltage output coil, you can widen
the gap slightly.

This is a big ol can of worms, so I'm gonna leave this one alone.  A
whole entire chapter in itself.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 00:22:33 EDT
From: <JCutlass@aol.com>
Subject: Brakes still not right

After the local brake guy check out the brakes, replaced the master cylinder
on the 68 Cutlass, check all the lines for leaks, little change. Peddle still
seems to travel almost to the floor before it starts grabbing. Pumping the
brakes does not increase pedal pressure, so I doubt air in lines is a problem.
Took it back  about a month later, he replaced the master cylinder, no change.
No fluid loss noticable. Everything seems normal and adjusted. Reputable
garage, been around for ever.  Any ideas? I can't believe these brakes can't
be adjusted any better than this. Somebody mentioned wheel cylinders? (drums
all around btw)
Confused in Okla.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 22:34:40 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: More Olds on TV...

Kind of...

Watching Leno tongiht...  Edward Burns was on...  Don't know who he is, except
that he's in Saving Private Ryan.

Anyway, commented that he'd just bought a '69 Cutlass convertible, 455.

Hee hee.  For once, I cheered during Leno!!!  :)  Of course, Jamie Lee Curtis
was on before, talking about cam*ros, cor*ettes, and f*rds...highly....  I was
calling her bad names...  was that wrong of me?  ;)

Wish Ed had brought pictures with him.....

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 00:53:37 EDT
From: <LooseCanno@aol.com>
Subject: Re: More Olds on TV...

Hey List:

I just read Charley's post about Ed Burns - in US magazine last week, he said
he just got rid of his '67 Skylark convert for the Cutlass.  Since I'm west
coast, I haven't seen the show yet, but you can bet I'll be watching.  Hope
you're enjoying the DirectTV, charlie.
FYI, Ed Burns directed "the Brothers McMullen" and "She's The One", both of
which he also starred in.  He also dated Lauren Holly. But enough
"Entertainment Tonight".

In regard to the movie Cutlass search - They have found a car, not from the
list but through the locator I was working with.  Thanks again to all of you
who sent pictures or wanted more info.  I'll keep that stuff on file just in
case!

Thanks guys (and gal!)

Erik

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 22:27:27 -0700
From: Ben jacks <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Transmissions

Something is bugging me about all this talk over OD. People are
reverting to the barbarian days of the Ch*vy division! DON'T DO IT! I've
always dreamed of putting an OD in my 68 442. I search and (don't have
it anymore) found info on the two different trannys. 2004R and the
700R4. The 700 has a higher first gear for better off the line, but has
a BIG drop to the second gear and the third and OD are fairly evenly
spaced. The 200 has a bit lower first gear, but is still loads better
than the TH400 or TH350 for off the line. The 200 has a very well and
even spaced gearing design. Now for the OD ratios. If my memory serves
me correctly the 200 has a .67 while the 700 has a .69. My suggestion
pay a hair more for a strong BOP 200 instead of the tratorous CH*VY
700R4. Hell, I think overall it's a better tranny. You don't hear much
about it because it's mainly used in sleepers or family cars just
because BOP doesn't make cars that are us with the status of the
Corvette. If we had a car with the 200-4R with the status of the
Corvette, I'm certain everybody would want a 200-4R. Just my personal
feelings.

Ben
62 Olds f-85 (FOR SALE!!!!)
http://www.primenet.com/~olds442/forsale.html
68 Olds 442 (400 w/ comp cam, MSD, Edelbrock intake, Headman headers,
Edelbrock carb, SOON TO HAVE THE EDELBROCK HEADS!) BEEFY!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 22:33:09 -0700
From: Eric Spence <ericsp@mail.ocis.net>
Subject: Re: Spark trivia, was splitfires, wierd stuff, etc...

Yes, but current flowing from ground (-) to positive (+) and volts the
opposite?

Mike Rothe. wrote:

> >
> > Huh!  I thought voltage carried current?!
> >
> E=IR, Volts=Current(amps)x Resistance (ohms)
>
> Volts is the measurement of electrical POTENTIAL, Current is the
> measurement of electron flow (or "hole" flow, whichever you believe) and
> resistance of course, measures that resistance to flow [think of this as
> electricity friction]
>
> A conductor carries current, and voltage provides the umph to get
> electrons to flow.  A poor conductor needs more volts to push the same
> amount of current as a good conductor, since it has an inherently high
> resistance.  As such, air is not a good conductor, so, if you widen the
> plug gap, you get less current flow for the same coil output voltage.
> Therefore, if you go with a bigger voltage output coil, you can widen
> the gap slightly.
>
> This is a big ol can of worms, so I'm gonna leave this one alone.  A
> whole entire chapter in itself.
>
> Mike Rothe



- --
Eric Spence
ericsp@mail.ocis.net
Kamloops, BC, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 01:35:19 -0400
From: Mia Felice <mia@globalserve.net>
Subject: REAR END

AIM TRANSPLATING A 12 BOLT INTO A 1980 CUTLASS CALAIS. A CANT SEEM TO
FIND ANY SPECS ON THE PINION OFFSET. IVE DONE IT GEOMETRICLY BY
DROPPING  POINTS OF THE CHASSIS BUT I COME UP WITH NO OFFSET, HARD TO
BELEIVE.  YOUR HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRICIATED IN THIS MATTER THANX
							PETER

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 00:33:24 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Re: transmissions

DYeager535@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 98-07-22 23:18:53 EDT, you write:
>
> << Well my 455 Olds in my 72 has been dyoned an puts out 540 LBS to torque 
and
>  440 horsepower. Could a beefed up 200R4 handle that?? The torque monster...
>  Pettrix@prodigy.net >>
>
> B&M lists their streep/strip THM 700-R4 as capable of handling UP TO 450 ft-
> lbs of torque. They of course, don't list the 200-4R. It probably all depends
> how they are built, and I bet anything that handles above 450 ft-lbs of 
torque
> will not be very streetable at all.  Dorian


I have talked a lot to the Poncho guys who are running the 2004R behind
the Indian 455, mostly the same discussion there also, most of them are
skeptical or scared to try, others have gone head and done with the
great results. I presonally would be looking to get either the 600HP Art
Carr tranny or a Level 10 unit. They are much more expensive, but if you
are like me (23) and grew up in the era of overdrive, you just can't
live without it. I have a "built' 2004R from a guy in Augusta, GA, but I
haven't had the money to finish the engine, so I still don't know if it
will hold up. My friend who grew up in the 70's repeatly tells me to run
a TH-400 or a 4-speed and not to worry about the engine turning 4 grand
on the highway - says they were built to take it. Me personally, if its
turnin' more than 2600, its turnin' tooooo fast.


Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 23:40:31 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: More Olds on TV...

Oooh!  Olds night on late night!  Conan's got BR549 singing "Wild One" and
mention something about taking out the 88.  Hee hee!

> he just got rid of his '67 Skylark convert for the Cutlass.

Wow.  He ~does~ have taste!  Cool! :)


Since I'm west
> coast, I haven't seen the show yet, but you can bet I'll be watching.  Hope
> you're enjoying the DirectTV, charlie.

Well, actually it's on antenna.  I ~sell~ DTV, and Primestar.  You'd think I'd
have one, but I don't.  Not usually around enough to use it, although I'm 
really
leaning closer to getting one.  Just don't want to deal with another bill every
month.  Definately won't get cable though...  That's just plain dumb!
Especially around here!
>
> In regard to the movie Cutlass search - They have found a car, not from the
> list but through the locator I was working with.

So, with access to your sources, any leads on getting pictures of cars ~from~
movies?  Or more personal information about the cars?  Like more information
about that Cutlass ragtop in Dirty Work that they just showed on "Later"???
Such as who it is...  Judging by the primer and rust, it could easily be mine!
(Except I don't own one...)  Tell your people some of us want to see pictures 
of
the cars we love....

I ~really~ need to see that show ~now~!!!

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 22:34:16 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Brakes still not right

At 12:22 AM 7/23/98 -0400, you wrote:
>After the local brake guy check out the brakes, replaced the master cylinder
>on the 68 Cutlass, check all the lines for leaks, little change. Peddle still
>seems to travel almost to the floor before it starts grabbing. Pumping the
>brakes does not increase pedal pressure, so I doubt air in lines is a
problem.
>Took it back  about a month later, he replaced the master cylinder, no
change.
>No fluid loss noticable. Everything seems normal and adjusted. Reputable
>garage, been around for ever.  Any ideas?

I'd start from the master cylinder.
Are you sure you have the right one?

Try bleeding the MC and see if that helps

>I can't believe these brakes can't
>be adjusted any better than this. Somebody mentioned wheel cylinders? (drums
>all around btw)

They should be better than this. Are the shoes adjusted to the drum width?
Does it pull to the left or right at all?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 01:53:51 EDT
From: <Cnvrt67@aol.com>
Subject: Non-Olds.....web page help (dealership sign pics)

sorry about this non olds content, but i need some help getting my web page
together in order to post the olds dealership sign pics and national pics. so
if someone can help me with the HTML portion of a webpage...... i would
greatly appreciate it. i already have the page up and running, i just dont
know how to use the HTML thingie. so as always, reply privately. this shouldnt
be something hard to explain and help me with. Thanks greatly.

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 00:50:13 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Re: Brakes still not right

Bob Blanchard wrote:
>
> At 12:22 AM 7/23/98 -0400, you wrote:
> >After the local brake guy check out the brakes, replaced the master cylinder
> >on the 68 Cutlass, check all the lines for leaks, little change. Peddle 
still
> >seems to travel almost to the floor before it starts grabbing. Pumping the
> >brakes does not increase pedal pressure, so I doubt air in lines is a
> problem.
> >Took it back  about a month later, he replaced the master cylinder, no
> change.
> >No fluid loss noticable. Everything seems normal and adjusted. Reputable
> >garage, been around for ever.  Any ideas?
>
> I'd start from the master cylinder.
> Are you sure you have the right one?
>
> Try bleeding the MC and see if that helps
>
> >I can't believe these brakes can't
> >be adjusted any better than this. Somebody mentioned wheel cylinders? (drums
> >all around btw)
>
> They should be better than this. Are the shoes adjusted to the drum width?
> Does it pull to the left or right at all?


If pumping the pedal does NOT increase pedal feel, then it is highly
unlikely that you have air in the system (but not impossible). I would
suspect the rear brake adjustment. This is an area that is often
incorrent in most cars I have dealt with personally. Adjust the shoes
out as far as you can get them AND still be able to get the drum on, you
should have to force it a little. Then turn it out one more full turn
through the access hole in the backing plate. Since the car is 4 wheel
drum you need to do the front ones also (sorry stuck in disc brake land
mentally)

If this doesn't help and the car seems to stop ok, you can as a last
resort turn the pedal connector out a few turns to make the pedal height
feel taller.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 02:05:15 -0400
From: Dan Boone <boone.dan@acd.net>
Subject: 70 442 W30 Conv for sale

Thanks for all the interest in my car. Although I expected some interest
I am surprised at how much I am getting. When my wife heard that I was
looking for a value for the car and interested people, she said she
didn't want to sell the car. Since neither one of have been the victims
of down sizing yet ( it is only rumor). She wants to wait and see what
happens first. I know you guys wish your wives were this understanding
about our love for oldsmobiles, I guess I just got lucky.
By the way I took the car to Lansing today for short ride and wound up
stopped at the light right next to a mustang 5.0. He looked at me and
asked if we were going to do it, of course I had to say yes after all I
had never raced it before and had to find out what it could do. He got
me by a car and have off the line, I was too busy trying to keep it
straight, by the end of the block I was at his door and running much
faster but the light turned red. From there we hooked up on a roll and I
dusted his doors, stickier tires are needed.
Thanks for your interest
Dan

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 01:58:16 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Voltage vs Current

For what it's worth, let me say this:
Voltage and current are two different, but related quantities.  Voltage is
the unit of electrical pressure (think of this as how many electrons are in
motion) and is measured in a unit known as the Volt.  Current is the
intensity of the flow of electrons (simmilar to how close each electron is
to the next) and is measured in Amperes.  Voltage can be calculated by
multiplying current and resistance.  This applies to solid state devices and
is known as Ohm's Law; E=I*R.  Current is usually more important than
voltage.


- -----Original Message-----
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, July 22, 1998 11:23 PM
Subject: Voltage vs Current


>> Huh!  I thought voltage carried current?!
>
>OK, how about this way.  Voltage is the ~supplier~ of electricity.  Current
is
>the ~motion~ of electricity.
>
>Higher voltage will allow higher current (providing resistance is
unchanged)
>However, voltage is a stationary substance (nice, eh? :o )
>
>OK...  Voltage is like, uh, a dead skunk...  Don't go anywhere, but causes
>everything around it to move away...  Of course, with voltage, the current
>returns to the other side of the origin...  But it sounded good at first.
>Hmm...
>
>
>Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
>mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
>http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
>   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
>    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
>     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
>  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 02:04:36 EDT
From: <LooseCanno@aol.com>
Subject: Still More Olds on TV/movies

Well, coincidentally, I found out today that the '67 GTO from Seinfeld (driven
by Costanza, the "videotape bootlegger" bad boy) belongs to an assistant at my
real estate office.
Her husband got $250 bucks a day, for 2 days, + a new windshield (they replace
the windshield with anti-reflective coated glass to shoot video through it
without glare.)  They picked up and delivered the car on a flatbed from home.
Incidentally, George misidentifies the car during the show as a '68 - but we
all know the difference.
I asked a music video producer about the locator - he said she has a good
reputation in the industry.  This producer just did a video for the song
"Brick" which included his early sixties f*rd Falcon - truly one of the more
hideous cars of the period, even for a f*rd.  He said a major feature like
this one would be about $350/day, for up to two weeks.  Come to think of it,
my car could use new seats up front, so I don't think I'll mind if he hops
over the door!!  now, what to do with the other $4000. <G>
I'm not yet at liberty to give any details about the movie, but it is NOT an
action film.   However, everyone will recognize the star, and I bet we'll all
want to see the film!!  I'll let every one know right before it comes out.
I still watch 'Kingpin' every time it's on, and now I'm going to see Dirty
Work.
Take care!

Erik

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 02:10:20 EDT
From: <Edokuhl@aol.com>
Subject: Re: More Olds on TV...

beginning of the the bob newhart show...driving up to the inn in a brown 73
delta 88 sedan .......just get a "glimps" of those "beautiful" horizontal
taillights.....









' 73 D 88 CPE

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 02:45:37 EDT
From: <JuGgaLo893@aol.com>
Subject: question about vacuum

 ok  recently i rebuilt my olds 350 motor and put into it quite a bit of money
i didnt do the work my self because of lack of time and space.   i just got it
back and already have problems. my problem is this  it wont stay running at
idle    it surges and seems to only have an acceleration circuit in the carb.
the vacuum is only at 10 inches and i cant find the leak . is it possible that
my leak would be under the intake perhaps a crack on the under side of a
runner? i put a bigger cam in it and higher compression ratio  the cam specs i
know are this   .490 lift on both valves   280degrees of duration  if more is
needed i can provide i've rebuilt the carb several times and i do not think my
problem is there  is my cam too radical? it should provide more than 10 in of
vacuum shouldnt it? i am at my wits end and this is my last hope before i take
it back to a shop.   it's a 76 intake and carb on a 77 or newer block with
a.i.r. holes in the head would this be a problem even though the air holes are
plugged?  please help.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 06:12:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: ttjbmm@webtv.net (todd thomas)
Subject: Proportioning valve

I need a proportioning valve for my 72w30, The kid {and i mean kid} that
I got the car from put tranny fluid in the master cylinder,what a
mess,So I am looking for a metering valve,I have replaced everything
else.
                                   thanks in advance.
                                   Todd Thomas
                                    1972 w30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 07:04:48 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: REAR END

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Mia Felice <mia@globalserve.net>
Subject: REAR END

AIM TRANSPLATING A 12 BOLT INTO A 1980 CUTLASS CALAIS. A CANT SEEM TO
FIND ANY SPECS ON THE PINION OFFSET. IVE DONE IT GEOMETRICLY BY
DROPPING  POINTS OF THE CHASSIS BUT I COME UP WITH NO OFFSET, HARD TO
BELEIVE.  YOUR HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRICIATED IN THIS MATTER THANX
							PETER

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 07:03:44 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Re: juice brakes (non-mopar)

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Edwin R. Burger IV" <erb22@drexel.edu>
Subject: Re: juice brakes (non-mopar)

The fun thing about the buick is that I allready own it.  I'm doing this car
on the (very) cheap.  I might be able to get the drums off of some other old
car's I have kicking about, but discs would just be too much money and a
headache.  Plus, I just have this disdain for rods with ifs and disc brakes.

Ed

PS.  What should I look for?  I've never done a swap like this before.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 07:50:58 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Brakes still not right

Was the push rod to the master cylinder adjusted properly?  If it is too
short, then the symptom you describe can obtain.  This is not to say that
there are not other possibilities.  If your brake drums are worn then the
shoes will be required to travel further to contact the drum, yielding a low
pedal.  You made no mention of the condition of your friction material, so I
must presume that your shoes are okay and properly adjusted out.  I have a
'71 Cutlass convertible with drum brakes all around that was plagued with
the same problem.  In my case, new drums fixed me up.  If your problem
persists and you wish, I would be glad to try to help.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 08:19:05 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: overdrive trans

I have a Gear vendors overdrive on my olds turbo 400 trans behind a 455
and have not had one problem over a 100 pass at the track. I have to
shift to overdrive before end of 1/4 and it tags you to seat., kind of
pricey,but so far no regrets.
              Butch  68  442  post

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 07:27:13 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: A heads instead of J heads

A friend of mine has a pair of A heads with the 3/8 studs in them. He wants
to sell them for about $50 bucks. I was thinking about buying them if they
will perform better then my J heads which I have had ported and polished
with a three angle valve job.  Has anybody used either of these heads?  A
Heads or the J Heads.

Thanks for the Info.
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
11 Wins 4 Losses
======================

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 08:43:56 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: fan clutch question

In a message dated 98-07-22 16:27:09 EDT, you write:

<<  I don't think AC alone
 would constitute the need for a heavy duty cooling system.  >>

Randy,
Thanks for the input. I found three types of thermo fan clutches. The first
(NAPA) was really a piece of junk. Smaller fins (and less of them) and not as
beefy as the original. (about $44) The second was from TP AUTO. This was the
correct size and weight (also $44) The third was a heavy duty (TP) about $110.
Many more fins and heavier still. Since it was three times the price (and my
original worked for twenty odd years) I chose #2. I installed it last night
and am surprised at what a difference it makes. The car feels like it's
putting out 20% more HP. I also learned there is an oil within the fan clutch
that heats and cools which determines whether or not it engages. If you can't
find what you need, let me know and I'll try to help. Good luck
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 07:54:37 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?

Yes I do have the four pin module
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
11 Wins 4 Losses
======================


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Kerry Kroger [SMTP:kerryk@mci2000.com]
	Sent:	Wednesday, July 22, 1998 3:20 PM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	Re: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb
Problem?

	it is a wafer circuit inside the control module also are you running
the
	four pin module?
	-----Original Message-----
	From: Johnson, Sam <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
	To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
	Date: Wednesday, July 22, 1998 8:46 AM
	Subject: RE: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?


	>What is a low rpm spark circuit?
	>
	>> -----Original Message-----
	>> From: DYeager535@aol.com [SMTP:DYeager535@aol.com]
	>> Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 1998 6:00 PM
	>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	>> Subject: Re: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb
Problem?
	>>
	>> In a message dated 98-07-21 18:44:47 EDT, you write:
	>>
	>> << did you check the points? or if HEI the control module low rpm
spark
	>>  circuit? this can cause the symptoms you mentioned..kk >>
	>>
	>>
	>>     I would assume we are both running HEI. I am. I'm not too
familiar
	>> with
	>> internal's of HEI, but there is a low RPM spark circuit that is
seperate?
	>> I'm
	>> not running computer. What would constitute "low RPM" for the
circuit? As
	>> soon
	>> as it gets above 1200RPM, it's smooth. Every thing else is good
or
	>> changed, IE
	>> plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Fires consistently under the timing
light, but
	>> thats
	>> about all I can think of. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 09:18:27 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Brakes still not right

In a message dated 98-07-23 00:27:48 EDT, you write:

<< Pumping the
 brakes does not increase pedal pressure, so I doubt air in lines is a
problem. >>

Possible pin hole leak in brake lines. Small enough to evaporate before being
able to be noticed. Just my two bits.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 09:27:29 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Type O 700R4?

Buddy says that he has seen an Olds 700R4 before out of another Delta 88
and
that they put them in GMC's too.  He's normally good at identifying
just about anything so I'm going to trust his judgement until I or
someone else can prove otherwise.


>> Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
>> Clayton Pierce,
__________________

I'm certainly not doubting your friend's expertise, it's just that all the
literature I've ever seen indicates that 700R4s only came with Chevy bolt
patterns.  If he has, in fact, seen one with a BOP pattern, that would be
good news indeed.  Perhaps Steve Ochs can shed some light on this?

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 22:36:33 +0900
From: James Zito <jimzito@uriel.net>
Subject: re: 69 442 brake drum color

Being the proud owner of a  very cancerous (but eventually to be
restored 69 442 conv) since 70-71 (don't exactly remember, since I was
only 3-4 at the time) and working form my questionable memory---- I
think they were a deep red color.  Of course this could have just been
New England surface rust.
Like I said it was a long time ago!!
Recollections since my "adult" memory has kicked in do suppoort the bare
metal concept, especially since there's no remnant of paint anywhere on
the drums.
Hope fully, someone will decipher the paint code.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 22:44:07 +0900
From: James Zito <jimzito@uriel.net>
Subject: media for paint stripping??

Although I'm currently about 7,000 miles from my 69 conv 442 and
probably won't start work on restoring it for a few years, it is never
too soon to ask advice.  Especially if you know that you're completely
clueless regarding a particular subject!!!!

So.......
I plan to do all the hard prep work on a full frame off for this beast
and know that I'll need to take the 15-40 layers of paint and bondo off
the body so that a body shop to be named later can replace all the rust
with metal and knock out all the dents.

What should I use to do this??
Chemical strippers?
Some kind of media in a "sand" blaster?  (have read that baking soda is
a good gentle media)
Sandpaper and elbow grease/roatry sander?

TIA
Jim
Lost in Korea!!

PS:
Since the spring, I've really been suffering Cutlass envy since someone
else in the US military has a 70 Cutlass and I have to see it every day
at work!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 09:54:56 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Parts 4 Sale

PLEASE!
 E me direct and
 I'll get back to you A.S.A.P

 Robert Schinkel
 docbob@caninet.com

 1966  B cylinder heads  (bare heads) >   $150

 1967  C cylinder heads with small heat riser hole>   $225
          Magnufluxed  -  complete

 1968
 442 grill emblem >   $40
 Nos Side marker light gaskets>   $10 all
 Nos front bumper rubbers (corner by fender)>  $30
 Ashtray Door >  $10
 Convertible top cylinders > $30 ea.
 Rear defroster switch > $25
 Motor mount heat shield > $8
 Conv. Top latches  >30.pr
 Conv. Vent windows with frames good chrome incl. glass  >$40.pr.
 Reverse light lens good condition > $10
 442 Carb  #7028251 >$150
 Intake for 442 398662 with choke> $100
 Choke pulldown only >$25
 Power Antenna Switch  >$25

 1969
 442 Grills exc.> $150
 Cutlass Grills > $90
 Wiper switch  > $40
 Radio plate (uncut) >$20
 Rear defroster Switch & wiring > $25
 Plastic headlight Doors > $75
 Ashtray Doors   > $10
 Convertible top cylinders > $25
 Convertible Trunk Lid rustfree  > $100
 Hood Hinges > $35
 442 Ashtray door with woodgrain Exc.>$20
 Motor mount heat shield  >$8
 Conv. Top latches >$30.pr
 Vacuum trunk switch >$25
 Taillight lens and some housings >$15 ea
 69-72      Nos SSI center caps >  $165
 69-72      Power window motors >  $25 ea.

 1970
 Tail light lens (Cutlass) >  $15 ea
 Tail light lens (Supreme) > $20 ea
 Nos 455 Oil Dipstick tubes  > $20
 Rear liscense plate brackets  > $10ea.
 Nos pass. side headlight frame>  $60
 Sport Mirrors  >  $175
 Nos fender script "Cutlass"  >  $30 ea
 Nos Horn Contact (sport wheel)  >  $20 ea
 Nos 442 emblem set (both sides, front tooth and trunk lid)  >    $150
 F85 fender script >  $30 pr.
 Rear side marker lights >  $15 ea
 70 442 bumper  core >  $100
 Ashtray Doors  >  $10
 Dash Plaques (Plastic around gauges W/ wood grain)   >   $20
 Convertible top cylinder > $25
 Hood Hinges > $25
 Motor mount heat shield> $8
 Conv. Top latches> $40.pr
 455 heads E casting> $100
 Convertible Top Switch  > $75
 1 NOS rear Wheel well Molding>$60
 69-72      Nos SSI center caps>$165
 69-72      Power window motors> $25 ea.

 1971 & 1972
 Front bumper directional lens> $10 ea.
 Tail light lens > $10 ea.
 Trunk lid script "O-L-D-S-M-O-B-I-L-E">  $30
 71-72 Rocker Chrome good/c (6 ft. long  bottom pieces)> $60
 T handle  (that opens hood) > $10
 Ashtray Doors > $10
 71  Cutlass Grills gc. >$90
 Dash Plaques (Wood Grain area around gauges) >$10
 Convertible top cylinders  > $30
 Hood Hinges   >$25
 Rear ¼ panel supreme extensions >$10
 Motor mount heat shield  >$8
 Conv. Top latches  >$40.pr
 Black  Automatic console  >$75
 69-72      Nos SSI center caps >  $165 set
 69-72      Power window motors > $25 ea.

 1973
 Carb         7043256  >$40

 Shipping is extra
 Robert Schinkel
 docbob@caninet.com
 905-357-4454
 1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 08:53:36 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: transmissions

Cars in the 60's and 70's ran well over 100,000 miles WITHOUT overdrive
transmissions and some had gearing up to high 3's and even in the 4's and
cruised the highways. Sure overdrive will cause the motor to run at a lower
RPM at highway speeds and cost less $$ in gas. It all comes down to how
much you want to spend. You can buy a modified TH-400 from TCI for about
$625.00 and it will run forever. Or you can buy an overdrive trans and pay
well over $1000.00 hoping that it will handle the rigors of a motor
producing over 500 FT LBS of torque and racing it at times.

 I say go with the TH-400, that's the way it came from the factory and when
maintained will give you over 100,000 miles on both the trans and motor. If
you got a steep gear in back just swap on a taller tire when you cruise the
highway.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Stephen Hoover <shang@wans.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: transmissions
> Date: Thursday, July 23, 1998 12:33 AM
>
> DYeager535@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated 98-07-22 23:18:53 EDT, you write:
> >
> > << Well my 455 Olds in my 72 has been dyoned an puts out 540 LBS to
torque and
> >  440 horsepower. Could a beefed up 200R4 handle that?? The torque
monster...
> >  Pettrix@prodigy.net >>
> >
> > B&M lists their streep/strip THM 700-R4 as capable of handling UP TO
450 ft-
> > lbs of torque. They of course, don't list the 200-4R. It probably all
depends
> > how they are built, and I bet anything that handles above 450 ft-lbs of
torque
> > will not be very streetable at all.  Dorian
>
>
> I have talked a lot to the Poncho guys who are running the 2004R behind
> the Indian 455, mostly the same discussion there also, most of them are
> skeptical or scared to try, others have gone head and done with the
> great results. I presonally would be looking to get either the 600HP Art
> Carr tranny or a Level 10 unit. They are much more expensive, but if you
> are like me (23) and grew up in the era of overdrive, you just can't
> live without it. I have a "built' 2004R from a guy in Augusta, GA, but I
> haven't had the money to finish the engine, so I still don't know if it
> will hold up. My friend who grew up in the 70's repeatly tells me to run
> a TH-400 or a 4-speed and not to worry about the engine turning 4 grand
> on the highway - says they were built to take it. Me personally, if its
> turnin' more than 2600, its turnin' tooooo fast.
>
>
> Stephen Hoover
> Dallas, Texas
> '70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 09:54:45 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Brakes still not right

Bleed the crap out of them. I have had cars that almost refused to bleed air
out of the lines. Try elevating the rear of the car higher than the front. I
have had some success with this as a trapped air bubble will "float"
upwards. The proportioning valve is a common place for air bubbles to hang
up as there are a few edges in there to hold air. If your lines were allowed
to run completely dry (mechanic went to lunch during gravity bleed) it can
take forever to get the air out. I have actually hooked up a fluid pump to
the line at the master cylinder, opened the rear bleeders, and forced the
fluid through with the pump. Why this works better than pumping the master
cylinder, I have no idea, but it sometimes works. Just my .02 after hundreds
of brake jobs.
- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Comid <Comid>
Date: Thursday, July 23, 1998 12:31 AM
Subject: Brakes still not right


>
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>From: <JCutlass@aol.com>
>Message-ID: <f4db291a.35b6ba8a@aol.com>
>Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 00:22:33 EDT
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Brakes still not right
>X-Mailer: AOL 3.0 for Windows 95 sub 64
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>
>After the local brake guy check out the brakes, replaced the master
cylinder
>on the 68 Cutlass, check all the lines for leaks, little change. Peddle
still
>seems to travel almost to the floor before it starts grabbing. Pumping the
>brakes does not increase pedal pressure, so I doubt air in lines is a
problem.
>Took it back  about a month later, he replaced the master cylinder, no
change.
>No fluid loss noticable. Everything seems normal and adjusted. Reputable
>garage, been around for ever.  Any ideas? I can't believe these brakes
can't
>be adjusted any better than this. Somebody mentioned wheel cylinders?
(drums
>all around btw)
>Confused in Okla.
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 09:02:05 -0400
From: hitson@leadbelt.com
Subject: Re: question about vacuum

> ok  recently i rebuilt my olds 350 motor and <snipped>  it wont stay
running at
>idle    it surges and seems to only have an acceleration circuit in the carb.
>the vacuum is only at 10 inches <snipped>i put a bigger cam in it and
higher compression ratio  the cam specs i
>know are this   .490 lift on both valves   280degrees of duration  <snipped>

You say you are pretty sure the problem is not in the carb, but that's the
first place I'd look given the cam change. I'd suggest you consider trying
some different power valve springs to see if one doesn't improve your
vacuum. I believe Edelbrock sells some kit of different power valave springs
& I think the part # is 1994.

.02

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 10:45:01 -0600
From: Edward Pittman <edward@gdar.org>
Subject: Front Clip for 68 Cutlass S

I need an entire front clip for a 68 Cutlass S,
with bumper, fenders, hood, frame pieces,
headlight moldings, etc. I have the money now and
will pay a fair price. I'm not expecting mint
condition, but no extensive rust and no bondo
please. Want correct louvered hood. I'm trying to
get the whole clip, rather than doing it one piece
at a time. Also need rust-free trunk lid with
chrome trim piece intact. Call me at work at (214)
637-6660 or at home at (214) 828-2881, and don't
be afraid of the weird message on my home machine.
;)

I look forward to hearing from someone soon. I
really want to fix this puppy and get it back on
the road.

Edward Pittman

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 12:02:03 -0400
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: 69 442 Parts

I've finished my restoration and have the following spare parts for
sale:

- --nearly new mirror, LH door				$60
- --442 grills (bolt tabs need repair)		 	 90 pr
- --14" SSII trim rings, no dents				100 set of 5
- --door moldings						 15 ea
- --various hood & eyebrow moldings			ask
- --pr new after market rocker panels			 30
- --headers (Hooker I think) were on my 400ci		 70
Need headlight housings.  Will trade.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 11:54:35 EDT
From: <SOMMERVLLE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Front Clip for 68 Cutlass S

ED, where are you located at? I know of several 68/9 cars here in NC that
could meet your needs. let me know. Thanks Chris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 12:05:29 -0400
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: OIL PRESSURE GAGE (69 442)

Within the last few days, my oil pressure gage (ralley pac) started to
flutter under accelleration & on rough roads....but the problem goes
away after the car runs for a while.  An hints as to what the problem
is.  Wayne

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 12:00:01 EDT
From: <COUPEKING@aol.com>
Subject: '68 Toro for parts

List-
Will be looking at a '68 Toronado tonight that is being parted out. Supposedly
a straight and clean SoCal car. I am interested in the core motor, and may
have to buy the whole car to get it.

My question is this:  is anybody on this list interested in parts from one of
these? If I do get it I will not be able to keep it around long after I remove
the motor, and it'll be off to the local 'Pick Your Part'.

Are there any parts of special interest i should examine especially closely
for anybody? If there are any special needs out there, let me know now before
I look at this beastie, and I'll get back to you privately with info after I
examine the car this PM.

Not looking to get rich here, just to defray my expenses and to help any
'listers' in need of Toro bits. If things do move, they will move quickly.

Let me know.

Peter
Coupeking@aol.com
San Pedro, CA

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1385
*********************************
