Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1393


oldsmobile-digest       Tuesday, July 28 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1393



Re: I'm really desperate...
Re: '65 Cutlass Question
442 help
Re: 442 help - SSIII Gold
Re: '65 Cutlass Question
Razor Blading (Re: media for paint stripping??)
Re: 1983 Olds Delta 88
New Pictures are up
Re: Oldsmobile dealer ship sign
UNBOUNCE: Razor Blading (Re: media for paint stripping??)
Re: New Pictures are up
Re: engine degreaser
Re: mass olds show
Ohio collectors plates
Collector's plates
Olds in Virginia
RE: 455 motor
w-30 parts
90 moostang gt convt want to trade for 442
Re: 90 moostang gt convt want to trade for 442
UNBOUNCE: W-30 Parts
Re: A Fine Olds Day
air cleaner question
Re: air cleaner question
Re: Collector's plates
How to ship
How to ship
Shipping Charges/Pictures
Rust
Re: How to ship
parts for sale
Wanted: W Machine
Burnout page
Wanted: TOP RADIATOR PLATE
72 442 Convertible
Re: great day at the junqueyard (hood warning)
Re: Burnout page
Re: engine degreaser
Re: Carter Carburator problem
Re: UNBOUNCE: Razor Blading (Re: media for paint stripping??)
subscribe
need '76-'77 442 grill
Need the clip that holds the ignition in the dash for '68 Cutlass
Re: Rust
Re: Need the clip that holds the ignition in the dash for '68Cutlass
Re: Rust
Re: Report from Carlisle
Re: air cleaner question
RE: Trans cooler
Re: Rust
SSI Wheels
RE: SSI Wheels
Re: Trans cooler
Re: Rust
Re: Rust
307 Olds
Colorado Car Shows??

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 00:30:19 EDT
From: <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: I'm really desperate...

In a message dated 98-07-27 22:15:34 EDT, you write:

<< I have a Performer on my 455 in my '68 442 and it fits with no
 problems, using a Moroso air cleaner though.
  >>
my dad has a performer on the 455 in his '67 442 and it is VERY tight.  he has
a quadrajet with a open element air cleaner off of a early corvette.  this air
cleaner drops down around the carb and he has a pretty short air filter on it
(less than 3" tall).  even though the lid on the air cleaner is about 1/2"
above the top of the carb, there is a good size imprint in the hood
insulation.  maybe the '68 has a little more room, though.  hope this does you
some good.
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 21:37:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: ef01@sprynet.com
Subject: Re: '65 Cutlass Question

Terry,

U.S.A. parts supply (www.usapartssupply.com) lists them for $250-$300 depending
on size. Any local auto parts store should be able to get it maybe around $200.
In New York I found NAPA to be the best for getting parts and service also the
most expensive. Autozone also is a good chain to go to, service and knowledge 
of
 the parts drones leaves something to be desired, but their computers do go
back and some of their prices are dirt cheap. Western Auto is useless their
computers only go back to 72 and they don't know how to read a parts book. I
went to get a thermostat at Western for my 66 Delta and they told me they don't
carry any parts before 1972 so I asked to see the paper Stant catalog and told
them what part # to get the manager was amazed. I can't emphasis how important
it is to get to know a good parts guy. What to look for in radiators: -
-Modine is an excellent name - -Look over the quality of anything from China or
Mexico carefully you get what you pay for. - -Radiators are usually sec'd by
width. Manufact. try to make one fit a lot and some new radiators are more
universal than others. Look carefully at the location of tranny lines cooler
and the height of the tanks.

It might be cheaper to get a junkyard radiator and get it recored at a radiator
shop. Never done this. Also go to www.442.com (great web site) and check out 
the
 oldsfaq lists suppliers etc. and get an issue of Hemmings motor News lots of
suppliers plenty of repro'd bias ply tires.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 00:55:49 EDT
From: <JJP442@aol.com>
Subject: 442 help

I own an 87 442, I am looking for the gold paint that is on the spokes of the
oem chrome rally wheels. With the years of use and heat of the brakes the
paint has nearly faded completely. If anyone has a solution for my delema
please contact me at JJP442@aol.com Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 23:02:50 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: 442 help - SSIII Gold

Here's a clipping from a previous post, should be what you're after:


A couple of weeks ago someone asked about the gold color on their 442
wheels.  I have found a perfect match in a standard spray can so that you
don't have to buy a quart from the auto parts store.  The paint code is
GM-294 (Dupli-Color) Camel Metallic.  It comes in the standard small spray
can.

The gold painted areas on my 442 wheels always looked sort of weak since I
bought it new.  After 10 years it needed some touch up.  I used the
Dupli-Color paint and the wheels look better than new.

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 00:13:03 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: '65 Cutlass Question

Terry Warford wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
>         I've recently bought a '65 Cutlass Conv. that is a great driver, I
need to > upgrade it with Air Conditioning for the hot days in California.  In
doing > some research, it seems that I need to start with a new radiator (from 
a
3 > core to a 4 core!), > where else should I look for these parts...junk 
yard, >
internet, are their some companies that specialize in this.

Are you trying to install an air conditioner in a car that doesn't
originally have AC or are you just getting it's original AC up and
going?  If the car doesn't have an AC system installing one isn't going
to be easy.  You can buy an AC retrofit kit for your car, which would be
the easiest route but it won't look original.  The ones I've seen mount
under the dash (I think) and the vents mount under the front of the
dash.  They get the job done but they look "tacked on" IMHO...Better
than nothing though.  There are companies that advertise in the back of
car magazines that sell them.  Fer instance; Classic Auto Air-(813) 251
2356
  I've never delt with them, can't say whether they're any good or not,
I just happend to see their ad in the back of an old Cars&Parts magazine
I have handy here.

If you want to install an original factory AC system that would have
come with your car, it will take a lot of work.  In fact it might be
easier to sell your car and buy one just like it with AC.  I've never
retrofitted AC but I can give you a rough idea of what's neccesary, and
where to get the parts.  There's probably someone else on the list who
can tell you more:

The compressor, POA vavle, expansion valve, seals, and dryer should be
bought new and you can get them from a restoration parts house like year
one or fusick.  You can get most all of that stuff from a local store
like NAPA too.  You can get a new evaporator and condenser from year
one, but you can probably get away with used ones in good shape.  A
reprint shop manual is avalilible from year one too.  A neccesity for
this type of project, and very handy anyway if you do your own work.

The rest of the stuff you'll have to get from a donor car:  The air
conditioner assembly that mounts onto the firewall of the car where your
blower motor assembly is now. (I call it the "AC box"...Not sure if
that's correct.  You may have to modify the firewall to mount it, i.e.
cut a hole.  I don't know.)  All of the ducting, mixing door assemblies
and stuff that go under the dash.  The AC controls will also be
neccesary as well as the vents and their assemblies.  It would probably
be "easier" just to replace the entire dash with one from an AC car,
you'll have to remove it anyway.  There's also a bunch of little things
like cables, brackets, wiring, relays and what have you that you'll need
to get from a junker.

It's possible to use original hoses from a donor car but they're not
worth the risk since freon costs something like $25 a pound.    You'll
have to find a shop that will make you a new set.  There are places that
advertise in car mags that do that or you can possibly find a local shop
that will do that.


If your car already has the AC system, you should replace the
compressor, dryer, hoses, seals, POA valve and expansion valve.

Hope I was of some help.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Surpeme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1998 20:31:29 -0500
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Razor Blading (Re: media for paint stripping??)

I subscribe to a magazine called Classic Auto Restorer and in their August
issue they compare the various methods of stripping including one I hadn't
though of before, razor blading.  According to the article, you get a box
of 100 single edged blades and a holder and go at it.  Apparently, if it
works on a particular car the whole job can be done in a couple of hours .

Has anyone tried this??


>Although I'm currently about 7,000 miles from my 69 conv 442 and
>probably won't start work on restoring it for a few years, it is never
>too soon to ask advice.  Especially if you know that you're completely
>clueless regarding a particular subject!!!!
>
>So.......
>I plan to do all the hard prep work on a full frame off for this beast
>and know that I'll need to take the 15-40 layers of paint and bondo off
>the body so that a body shop to be named later can replace all the rust
>with metal and knock out all the dents.
>
>What should I use to do this??
>Chemical strippers?
>Some kind of media in a "sand" blaster?  (have read that baking soda is
>a good gentle media)
>Sandpaper and elbow grease/roatry sander?
>
>TIA
>Jim
>Lost in Korea!!
>
>PS:
>Since the spring, I've really been suffering Cutlass envy since someone
>else in the US military has a 70 Cutlass and I have to see it every day
>at work!!!!!!



Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 01:21:01 -0400
From: Bill Gochenour <gochenow@stjohns.edu>
Subject: Re: 1983 Olds Delta 88

HOFFAX181@aol.com wrote:
>
> how much do you want is it a 4 door or 2 if it is a 2 how is the rear 
quarters
> and doors i'm looking for a parts car for my 84 delta 2 door i have alreay 
put
> a new exhaust 255/60/15's at all 4 corners don't want to give it up cause the
> body is bad

It's a 4-door and believe me the body is nothing to brag about, it's a
real POS! But, the interior is mint!, brown cloth. The reason I bought
it was it had a set of gold & chrome 15" 442 wheels and a mint/clean/low
millage Olds 307 V-8. So, I thought hum......I'll take it!

- --

Bill !

1986 442 "The Perfect 10"                     _           _       ___
     Mobile Electronics Show Car            /  |        /  |    /  _  \
1983 Hurst/Olds 15th Anniversary Edition  /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
     100th Centennial Celebration #2218 /  / | |_   /  / | |_      /  /
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z-34             |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__
				             |_|         |_|   |_______|


		* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
		* Comming Soon----->3STICKS.com *
		* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

        http://area51.stjohns.edu/~toychest     (updated 7/15/1998)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 01:05:34 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: New Pictures are up

Got weekend pics back today, and ~already~ added 'em to their respective
pages...  Most of the updates are on the 67 Ninety Eight Convertible page, and
the 57 Buick page.  Couple new pics of the Teaser (my 83's new nickname) and a
couple other updates here and there.  Added a link on my "coolinx" page for
carlist.com, which has a comprehensive listing of automotive clubs worldwide.
Enjoy as desired ;)
- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 03:26:20 EDT
From: <Cnvrt67@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile dealer ship sign

In a message dated 98-07-27 01:38:03 EDT, you write:

<< Yes, Brent, the page looks much better now...  Everything seems to be
working
 perfectly now.  I agree, someone ~did~ get themselves a great find.  Oh, by
the
 way, you ~might~ want to double check the torque on the lug nuts for that
ragtop
 ya got out there...   Looks like that back wheel has some...  uh...
~alignment~
 problems...


 (Actually, looks more like the SSI rim stuck up against the shell to look
 halfway complete....  One of ~my~ favorite tricks!!!  :) >>


yes charlie you are correct. i just leaned the ss1 up against the car to make
it look a little better. the car shall be finished soon. October 4 is when it
will be done by because that is my birthday. And seeings its my 16th birthday
present it better be. will have pics up when she is done.

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible
http://members.aol.com/Cnvrt67/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 06:43:03 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Razor Blading (Re: media for paint stripping??)

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Razor Blading (Re: media for paint stripping??)

I s*bscribe to a magazine called Classic Auto Restorer and in their August
issue they compare the various methods of stripping including one I hadn't
though of before, razor blading.  According to the article, you get a box
of 100 single edged blades and a holder and go at it.  Apparently, if it
works on a particular car the whole job can be done in a couple of hours .

Has anyone tried this??


Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 03:49:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: John <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: New Pictures are up

- ---Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com> wrote:
 Couple new pics of the Teaser (my 83's new nickname) and a
> couple other updates here and there.

      Teasers looking good!!Damn nice stereo!!Pat wants to know when
she's gonna get a pic of the magnet,so she can put a face with all the
comments!!,
                        John
==
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73 http://www.442.com/mcjunkin.html
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof-307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!
 mailto:super442@yahoo.com


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Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 07:04:15 EDT
From: <Camxos@aol.com>
Subject: Re: engine degreaser

Try A product call S100, You can pick it up at a motorcycle shop.
 It works great and you only need a garden hose not a pressure sprayer.
It cost about $10. but well worth it because you can use it on your wheels to
cut through brake dust, and on the underbody.


                                                           Just my $.02

                                                           camxos@aol.com
                                                            83 H/O



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 04:18:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: mass olds show

  The show is at the Northampton Tri-county (or three county, same
place, just unsure of spelling) Fairgrounds on August 22. It's called
Cruiseapalooza 98.  This is the second year that they're having it.
As far as I know, It's a show and swapmeet.  This is the first year
that I've heard of it, but from what I heard on the radio, They're
expecting 200+ cars, and they're going to have booths selling stuff.
I've heard the commercial twice, but I don't remember all of the
details.  If I hear it again, I'll write down the details and forward
the info to the list. Oh, and admission is free for spectators, and I
have no idea what the entry fee is for showing cars.  Hopefully my car
will be done by then so I can show it.  Either way, I'll be there.

Hope some of this info helps,
         Stefan
         sgadecki@yahoo.com
         1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe







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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 07:32:47 -0400
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: Ohio collectors plates

Message text written byJason Labay
>Thats odd. I still see quite a few late 80's Mustang GT's at the track
with collector plates. A few I know for a fact
just renewed them.  There are listed as collectors cars already? I hope not
:-) I know quite a few GN's have them also.
Haven't tried to get them on my 80 442, but I like my OLDSPWR plates more.<

I agree, I have seen many different non-collectors vehicles withe plates.
The Ohio law regarding this issue just changed and the letter was sent out
last weeek.  I have had collectors plates on my 442 for three years now.
They just won't renew them.  This will eventually affect many people.  The
big issue is people are using the collector's plates to get out of the
E-chack emmissions test and are registering the plates to non-collectors
vehicles.

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E & 4L60-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'96 DCM Impala SS   '87 Olds Cutlass 442  '95 Grand Prix

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 07:32:51 -0400
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: Collector's plates

Message text written by Mark Hahn
>To qualify, motor vehicles must be at least 25 years old. They are
solely collector's items and are used for participation in club
activities, exhibitions, tours, parades, etc. but NOT for general
transportion."
<
You are referring to Ohio Historical Plates which are different than
Collector's plates.  Collector's plates can be issued to any vehicle,
running or not, with at least a value of $100.  The vehicle must have some
collector's value and must NOT be your primary vehicle.

I have had collectors plates on my 442 for 3 years, but Ohio is just passed
a new law requiring more documentation because people are using these
plates to bypass the E-check emissions test.


Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E & 4L60-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'96 DCM Impala SS   '87 Olds Cutlass 442  '95 Grand Prix

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 04:37:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Olds in Virginia

  I went to Virginia over the weekend for the commisioning of the Hary
S. Truman aircraft carrier  (the worlds biggest). While I was there I
saw a 71 or 72 442 in the Virginia Beach area.  It was blue with gold
stripes, in really good shape.  I was just wondering if it belonged to
anybody on the list.  I saw it parked near a deep sea fishing place.

  stefan
  sgadecki@yahoo.com
  1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 07:00:14 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: 455 motor

If you ported and polished J heads and did the same thing with the C Heads,
which would flow better?  Does make a difference?
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
11 Wins 7 Losses
======================


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Peter Landowski [SMTP:PETTRIX@Prodigy.net]
	Sent:	Monday, July 27, 1998 3:16 AM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	Re: 455 motor

	Sure that's true. I meant that STOCK, UNTOUCHED, these heads flowed
bad. A
	STOCK "C" head will outflow a STOCK "J" head anyday. A full port and
polish
	job on ANYHEAD will make it flow good. I meant STOCK, these heads
flowed
	bad, not redone.
	Pettrix@prodigy.net

	----------
	> From: Ken <olds442@en.com>
	> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	> Subject: Re: 455 motor
	> Date: Sunday, July 26, 1998 10:54 PM
	>
	>
	>
	> Peter Landowski wrote:
	>
	> > The "J" heads were the WORST flowing Olds heads for the big
block. "J"
	> > stand for JUNK. Don't get it... It's probably a butchered motor.
	> > Pettrix@prodigy.net
	>
	>  I had a set of Mondello ported 2.07/1.71 "J"(unk) heads on a
motor with
	stock
	> hi compression pistons and w-30 cam..  Dyno said 470hp.  It
depends on
	who
	> worked em, not the letter cast into em..

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 07:38:19 -0400
From: "Bob Neumann" <unitron-rneumann@ic.net>
Subject: w-30 parts

Gentlemen:

So make me an offer instead of quips about the prices.  It must be obvious
that I don't know what any of this stuff is worth.  I got these parts in a
package deal with a 1929 Olds.

They are from my own original car.  I'm not going to refuse a reasonable
offer.  I thought someone would tell me I'm high and give me a price I
should be asking.  I know I saw a manifold at the Olds Reunion for over
$1000.

I've always wanted to get the engine running again anyway.

Sorry, if I offended anyone.

Bob Neumann

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 08:33:16 EDT
From: <SOMMERVLLE@aol.com>
Subject: 90 moostang gt convt want to trade for 442

Hey list, I just picked up a trade from a guy 1990 moostang gt convertable.The
car has all of the toy and isn't in bad shape it's blue and silver, with white
and blue interior. Needs a new top and a drivers seat recovered. The car runs
good 302/5spd mags, power everything 130k, looking for 4500 OBO. Wholesale on
the car is around 5500 or trade for 69 442 auto center console car (open to
other years to). I'm not looking to get rich just want another OLDS 442!!!!
I'm in Fayetteville NC and can transport around east coast. Willing to work a
deal (Quick before wife gets to attached to car) if any one interested or you
know a f*rd nut send them my way. Thanks Chris

SOMMERVLLE@AOL.COM
(910) 487-1540 Home
(910) 396-5420/2683 Work (The place that robs me of time with my cars)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 08:39:41 EDT
From: <SOMMERVLLE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 90 moostang gt convt want to trade for 442

I know please forgive me for putting this on the list , just can't stand it in
my yard, Chris

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 09:37:51 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: W-30 Parts

I think this should help clear up the discussion on this... make him an
offer!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Bob Neumann" <unitron-rneumann@ic.net>
Subject: w-30 parts

Gentlemen:

So make me an offer instead of quips about the prices.  It must be obvious
that I don't know what any of this stuff is worth.  I got these parts in a
package deal with a 1929 Olds.

They are from my own original car.  I'm not going to refuse a reasonable
offer.  I thought someone would tell me I'm high and give me a price I
should be asking.  I know I saw a manifold at the Olds Reunion for over
$1000.

I've always wanted to get the engine running again anyway.

Sorry, if I offended anyone.

Bob Neumann

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 08:43:40 -0400
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: A Fine Olds Day

<Greg Beaulieu's Most Excellent Birthday Adventure Snipped>

Happy belated B-Day, Greg!  And glad to hear that both you & your
friend both won things at the car show.  Even if you didn't win a trophy,
you're very lucky to be able to go to, not to mention enter, a car
show on yer b-day.

On *my* birthday, I can always dig a path through the snow to where I store
a winter-hibernating Big Red :P



Tim (A December Baby) Churchill  OCA #30327  Framingham, MA
- ------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 08:53:18 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: air cleaner question

I would like to convert my air cleaner from one scoop to two. I saw one on an
older cutless and was wondering if it would fit my 350.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 09:04:04 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: air cleaner question

> I would like to convert my air cleaner from one scoop to two. I saw one on an
> older cutless and was wondering if it would fit my 350.

I'm betting it should plop right on like it was at home, provided you
have the same style carb (4bbl most likely) and the heat tube on the
passenger side of the engine.  I'm not 100% sure where the tube is
located on a 75 Delta.  Then again, I'm not sure which type of Cutlass
air cleaner you are talking about.  I'm just assuming it's the 71 442
standard air cleaner.  On THIS one, they just added another inlet on the
driver's side, otherwise, it's the same as a single snorkel.  If you
don't use a heat tube anyway, then it probably wouldn't make much
difference.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 09:08:13 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Collector's plates

Steve:

On the other hand if they are giving you trouble with the collector
plates, you could go the long way by doing the E-Check dance. That is,
by having it tested 3 times and showing repairs that total $300. then
you can get an exemption. A real pain in the *ss, I know, but it is
another way around.

Mark Hahn
75D88Conv

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 06:10:31 PDT
From: "David Popadic" <olds67cutlass@hotmail.com>
Subject: How to ship

Quick question.  I have a guy in Texas interested in my tires and rims
(didn't offer them on the list because they were Corvette rims, but
that's another story).  How would I go about shipping these and is there
a way to determine the cost before actually pulling them off the car and
taking them somewhere.

On a sadder (and pissed off note) some kids must of thought it funny
last night to open the door on my Cutlass and put an egg in the door and
close it.

Also looking for anybody interested in exchanging photos of there cars,
looking for like 67 Cutlass/442 but am open to anybody.  Am looking to
start a scrap book of sorts.

David Popadic
1967 Cutlass Convertible
1988 Chevy S10
1996 Chevy Beretta
1987 Ford EXP (Winter Beater)

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 06:13:08 PDT
From: "David Popadic" <olds67cutlass@hotmail.com>
Subject: How to ship

Quick question.  I have a guy in Texas interested in my tires and rims
(didn't offer them on the list because they were Corvette rims, but
that's another story).  How would I go about shipping these and is there
a way to determine the cost before actually pulling them off the car and
taking them somewhere.

On a sadder (and pissed off note) some kids must of thought it funny
last night to open the door on my Cutlass and put an egg in the door and
close it.

Also looking for anybody interested in exchanging photos of there cars,
looking for like 67 Cutlass/442 but am open to anybody.  Am looking to
start a scrap book of sorts.

David Popadic
1967 Cutlass Convertible
1988 Chevy S10
1996 Chevy Beretta
1987 Ford EXP (Winter Beater)

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 08:13:58 -0500
From: "David A. Popadic" <davepop@execpc.com>
Subject: Shipping Charges/Pictures

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BDB9FF.ABA8B000
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Quick question.  I have a guy in Texas interested in my tires and rims =
(didn't offer them on the list because they were Corvette rims, but =
that's another story).  How would I go about shipping these and is there =
a way to determine the cost before actually pulling them off the car and =
taking them somewhere.

On a sadder (and pissed off note) some kids must of thought it funny =
last night to open the door on my Cutlass and put an egg in the door and =
close it. =20

Also looking for anybody interested in exchanging photos of there cars, =
looking for like 67 Cutlass/442 but am open to anybody.  Am looking to =
start a scrap book of sorts.

David Popadic
1967 Cutlass Convertible
1988 Chevy S10
1996 Chevy Beretta
1987 Ford EXP (Winter Beater)

- ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BDB9FF.ABA8B000
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Quick question.&nbsp; I have a guy =
in Texas=20
interested in my tires and rims (didn't offer them on the list because =
they were=20
Corvette rims, but that's another story).&nbsp; How would I go about =
shipping=20
these and is there a way to determine the cost before actually pulling =
them off=20
the car and taking them somewhere.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>On a sadder (and pissed off note) =
some kids must=20
of thought it funny last night to open the door on my Cutlass and put an =
egg in=20
the door and close it.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Also looking for anybody interested =
in=20
exchanging photos of there cars, looking for like 67 Cutlass/442 but am =
open to=20
anybody.&nbsp; Am looking to start a scrap book of sorts.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>David Popadic<BR>1967 Cutlass=20
Convertible<BR>1988 Chevy S10<BR>1996 Chevy Beretta<BR>1987 Ford EXP =
(Winter=20
Beater)</FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BDB9FF.ABA8B000--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 09:33:14 -0400
From: olds@interconti.com
Subject: Rust



     To All -

     Has anyone found a way to suspend the rust that forms inside the rear
     quarter panels around the wheel areas?  Mine has surface rust and is
     not through yet - is there anything that I can spray in there to
     suspend the rust?

     Thanks alot -
     Scott

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 09:31:57 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: How to ship

<HTML>
David:

<P>Contact UPS and give them the dimensions of the items to be shipped
and the weight. They will give you a price. Actually you could go to their
web site and get the same info. <A
HREF="http://www.ups.com/using/services/rave/rate.html">Quick Cost
Calculator</A>

<P>Mark Hahn
<BR>75D88Conv</HTML>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 08:31:00 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: parts for sale

I have the following parts for sale:

1) 66 Cutlass passenger taillight assembly, complete - $40
2) 67 Supreme taillight lens set, includes the upper inner pieces (ie
not the chrome bezels) - $60
3) 69 4-4-2 pair of red a/c kick panels, the driver side has the 'leg'
broke off - make an offer
4) 69 4-4-2 red dash pad, faded, no cracks - $90
5) 69 4-4-2 std instrument cluster w/o clock - make an offer
6) 69 4-4-2 chrome headliner retaining strips, not commonly seen from
what I understand - make an offer
7) 69 4-4-2 rear seat in red - make an offer
8) 69 4-4-2 a/c setup on the firewall - make an offer
9) 69 4-4-2 passenger front bumper bracket - $7

I also have access to a 66 trunk lid that I should be looking at a week
from this sat.

Thanks.
Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 09:50:53 -0500
From: "Cote, Jeffrey"
<IMCEAEX-_O=MCCO_OU=MORGAN_CN=RECIPIENTS_CN=M947AIM@morganco.com> Subject:
Wanted: W Machine

Hey everyone.

I am looking to find a 68-72 442 W-30 or W-31 for sale. Must be running
and not a rust bucket and have matching #s all around. Must also be a
documented W machine (ie build sheet, window sticker...) unless its a 72.
I have found a couple for sale, but I'm trying to avoid transporting costs.
I live in Worcester, MA and would prefer to find one in my region (but
doesnt
look like its from my region!!!) but if arrangements can be made, this isnt
necessary. Can anyone help?

Jeff Cote

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 09:56:55 EDT
From: <MrExMt@aol.com>
Subject: Burnout page

The address on the burn out page didnt work, can you post the address again
please. I tried 3 times & Tripod.com could not find it. Looking forward to
seeing it!
Thanks
Leigh
'68 Cutlass S Convert

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 09:58:50 EDT
From: <MrExMt@aol.com>
Subject: Wanted: TOP RADIATOR PLATE

I need a 4 core top radiator plate for a '70. Any one have one for sale or
know where to find it please e-mail me.
Thank You!
Leigh
mrexmt@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 09:17:22 -0500
From: Perry DiMarco <pdimarco@ascllp.com>
Subject: 72 442 Convertible

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
- --------------6171FB4C31D0F501B27E6C41
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Does anyone know what a 72 442 convertible is worth?

The vehicle has a 350 Olds. The car has 31,000 miles and has been
restored to factory specs.

Color is Electric blue, white top, white buckets

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begin:          vcard
fn:             Perry DiMarco
n:              DiMarco;Perry
org:            Applied Solutions Consulting
email;internet: pdimarco@ascllp.com
title:          Partner
note:           www.ascllp.com
x-mozilla-cpt:  ;0
x-mozilla-html: FALSE
version:        2.1
end:            vcard


- --------------6171FB4C31D0F501B27E6C41--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 10:17:12 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: great day at the junqueyard (hood warning)

Chris,

Be prepared to do a LOT of cleaning on that hood - I ended up spending over
$30.00 at a car wash power-spraying out Grace (our 71 Cutlass 'S' stock car)
after rescuing her from the flooded-out salvage yard.  And we didn't do the
hood, just used another one.  That was in late 1993, and here in 1998 I'm
STILL finding that stuff in frame pockets, rocker panels, inside the decklid
(after we lightened it), and anywhere you'd thought we already cleaned!

A good idea would be a power washer (someday we'll have one......) followed up
by a trip through one of those chemical strippers that do entire cars.  After
they get it cleaned out, then you can get some of those metal treatments
Eastwood sells and treat the metal you can't easily reach.  Why am I
recommending all this?  Because that trapped mud/dirt will be a breeding
ground for rust, and it will eat out the metal from the inside, leaving you
with a lot of work down the road.  Plus, it's always so embarrassing to shut
the hood after cleaning the engine compartment and next time you open it
there's small dirt clods all over that primo engine.........

Good Luck, and Take Care!

Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 07:17:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: John <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Burnout page

- ---MrExMt@aol.com wrote:
>
> The address on the burn out page didnt work, can you post the
address again
> please. I tried 3 times & Tripod.com could not find it. Looking
forward to
> seeing it!
> Thanks
> Leigh
> '68 Cutlass S Convert
>
Sorry about that, try this one:
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts
Thanks for visiting.
John
==
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73 http://www.442.com/mcjunkin.html
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof-307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!
 mailto:super442@yahoo.com


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 10:22:16 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: engine degreaser

Chris,

One cleaner mentioned was Castrol's Super Clean, it does a good job.  But last
night I used some plain old Oven Cleaner (the type you don't need to heat the
oven with) on the front frame and crossmember of the race car, and it did a
real good job.  Cleaned it up good enough to let me use the sandblaster on it
today.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 09:21:23 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: Carter Carburator problem

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01BDBA09.170C5C80
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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hmm=20
sorry I was out for the weekend.
It's a 9000 series Carter AFB (Aluminum Four Barrel)
The problem seemed to be "clogging" in the idle circuit.
Since I am used to a Rochester this carb is amazing me by how simple it =
is designed.
Brett Wilson


   =20
    -----Original Message-----
    From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@mci2000.com>
    To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
    Date: Friday, July 24, 1998 6:15 PM
    Subject: Re: Carter Carburetor problem
   =20
   =20
    what model carb? thermoquad, afb, what?
        -----Original Message-----
        From: Brett Wilson <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
        To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
        Date: Friday, July 24, 1998 11:12 AM
        Subject: Re: Carter Carburetor problem
       =20
       =20
        Does anyone have any info on this subject?????
        I need help bad.  none of the book stores around here have any =
info on Carters..
        TIA
        Brett Wilson
            -----Original Message-----
            From: Brett Wilson <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
            To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
            Date: Friday, July 24, 1998 7:15 AM
            Subject: Carter Carburetor problem
           =20
           =20
               =20
                I have a Carter carburetor (650) and the other day I =
decided to rebuild it.
            All went well except that my carburetor bogs down on idle.  =
right now it dies on idle.  at WOT it is awesome but at low rpm's with =
little gas pedal it dies and acts like it is running out of gas.
            I set the floats "up" position to 5/16 and down position to =
15/16 like the instructions said.=20
           =20
            =B7 what could be the cause of this problem?
           =20
            any help is well appreciated.
           =20
            Brett Wilson
            67 Cutlass Convertible
           =20


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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN"><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN"><!DOCTYPE HTML =
PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>hmm </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>sorry I was =
out for the=20
weekend.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>It's a 9000 series Carter AFB (Aluminum Four=20
Barrel)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>The problem =
seemed to be=20
&quot;clogging&quot; in the idle circuit.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Since I am used to a Rochester this carb is amazing =
me by how=20
simple it is designed.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Brett Wilson</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B></B></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Kerry Kroger &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:kerryk@mci2000.com">kerryk@mci2000.com</A>&gt;<BR><B>To: =
</B><A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A> =
&lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Friday, July 24, 1998 6:15 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Re: Carter =
Carburetor=20
    problem<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>what model carb? thermoquad, =
afb,=20
    what?</FONT></DIV>
    <BLOCKQUOTE=20
    style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
        <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original=20
        Message-----</B><BR><B>From: </B>Brett Wilson &lt;<A=20
        =
href=3D"mailto:bwilson@dmotorworks.com">bwilson@dmotorworks.com</A>&gt;<B=
R><B>To:=20
        </B><A=20
        =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>=20
        &lt;<A=20
        =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
        </B>Friday, July 24, 1998 11:12 AM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Re: Carter =

        Carburetor problem<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
        <DIV>Does anyone have any info on this subject?????</DIV>
        <DIV>I need help bad.&nbsp; none of the book stores around here =
have any=20
        info on Carters..</DIV>
        <DIV>TIA</DIV>
        <DIV>Brett Wilson</DIV>
        <BLOCKQUOTE=20
        style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
            <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original=20
            Message-----</B><BR><B>From: </B>Brett Wilson &lt;<A=20
            =
href=3D"mailto:bwilson@dmotorworks.com">bwilson@dmotorworks.com</A>&gt;<B=
R><B>To:=20
            </B>Oldsmobile &lt;<A=20
            =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
            </B>Friday, July 24, 1998 7:15 AM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Carter=20
            Carburetor problem<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
            <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
</FONT></DIV>
            <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<FONT =
size=3D3> I=20
            have a Carter carburetor (650) and the other day I decided =
to=20
            rebuild it.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
            <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><FONT size=3D3>All went =
well except=20
            that my carburetor bogs down on idle.&nbsp; right now it =
dies on=20
            idle.&nbsp; at WOT it is awesome but at low rpm's with =
little gas=20
            pedal it dies and acts like it is running out of=20
            gas.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
            <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><FONT size=3D3>I set the =
floats=20
            &quot;up&quot; position to 5/16 and down position to 15/16 =
like the=20
            instructions said.&nbsp;</FONT></FONT></DIV>
            <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
            <DIV>&middot; what could be the cause of this problem?</DIV>
            <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
            <DIV>any help is well appreciated.</DIV>
            <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
            <DIV>Brett Wilson</DIV>
            <DIV>67 Cutlass Convertible</DIV>
            <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
            =
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01BDBA09.170C5C80--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 07:21:50 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Razor Blading (Re: media for paint stripping??)

used to peal the clearcoat off mid eighties gm this way but the color would
be different it think but should eliminate a lot of sanding ...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 3:02 AM
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Razor Blading (Re: media for paint stripping??)


>
>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
>Subject: Razor Blading (Re: media for paint stripping??)
>
>I s*bscribe to a magazine called Classic Auto Restorer and in their August
>issue they compare the various methods of stripping including one I hadn't
>though of before, razor blading.  According to the article, you get a box
>of 100 single edged blades and a holder and go at it.  Apparently, if it
>works on a particular car the whole job can be done in a couple of hours .
>
>Has anyone tried this??
>
>
>Lloyd Ferguson
>ferguson@1stnetusa.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 10:49:58 -0400
From: talcarol@erie.net (Chris Kugler)
Subject: subscribe

subscribe oldsmobile "Chris Kugler" <talcarol@erie.net>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 10:52:55 -0400
From: talcarol@erie.net (Chris Kugler)
Subject: need '76-'77 442 grill

Hi everybody.

I urgently need the grills for my '77 442.  If none are available I'll
gladly except '76 grills.  Please reply.  You can e-mail me direct at
talcarol@erie.net if you want.

Thanks,
Chris Kugler
1977 Cutlass S 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 10:59:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Need the clip that holds the ignition in the dash for '68 Cutlass

Not sure of the name but I need the thing that holds the ignition in the
dash. I understand that they're very rare and hard to find. Don't need an
original replacement, just something that'll hold it in place.

Getting tired of having to fish it back in to the hole each time.

Thanks in advance.



C. Casteel
earthsci@usit.net
(931) 645-8008

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 11:09:00 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Rust

Oil or petroleum product are best for stopping rust from starting or
continuing

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)


- ----------
> From: olds@interconti.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Rust
> Date: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 9:33 AM
>
>
>
>      To All -
>
>      Has anyone found a way to suspend the rust that forms inside the
rear
>      quarter panels around the wheel areas?  Mine has surface rust and is

>      not through yet - is there anything that I can spray in there to
>      suspend the rust?
>
>      Thanks alot -
>      Scott

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 11:14:44 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Need the clip that holds the ignition in the dash for '68Cutlass

If your are have difficulties finding the original plastic one, you can try
to locate one from a 68 Delta.  They should be a bit easier to locate and
are metal, so they should last a bit longer.
I know i  have the plastic one and a metal one but my orginizational skills
are pathetic, so I have no been able to find them for a few years.  But I
know they are here somewhere.
Anyways hope this help You

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada  EH!
905-357-4454
1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)

- ----------
> From: C. Casteel <earthsci@pop.usit.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Cc: chermac@exis.net
> Subject: Need the clip that holds the ignition in the dash for '68Cutlass
> Date: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 10:59 AM
>
> Not sure of the name but I need the thing that holds the ignition in the
> dash. I understand that they're very rare and hard to find. Don't need an
> original replacement, just something that'll hold it in place.
>
> Getting tired of having to fish it back in to the hole each time.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
> C. Casteel
> earthsci@usit.net
> (931) 645-8008
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 08:50:38 PDT
From: "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rust

give POR 15 a go,that stuff works great!

>>      To All -
>>
>>      Has anyone found a way to suspend the rust that forms inside the
>rear
>>      quarter panels around the wheel areas?  Mine has surface rust
and is
>
>>      not through yet - is there anything that I can spray in there to
>>      suspend the rust?
>>
>>      Thanks alot -
>>      Scott
>


  My  -------   -------
            /  |
           /   |
          /     ------
         /            |
        /             |
       /        ------    DELTA 88
Ryan D Beck
           Riviera72sss@hotmail.com
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 13:25:40 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: Report from Carlisle

Yes, I saw many of the cars Joe did too, and agree with his comments about the
pricing.  There was a 71 Cutlass Supreme SX there as well, which I'm seriously
considering following up on.  95K miles, one owner car, very complete, not hot
rodded or anything, excellent interior with exception of some wear on driver's
seat, AC, console, AM/FM stereo, no rust anywhere, 455 (4V?), vinyl top, very
clean and sharp 8 yr old paint job, engine started right up from cold,
basically a solid one owner car, priced at $8500.  This seems high, probably
should be closer to 6K in my estimation.  Interestingly, this SX had the
cutouts, but no sway bar and no boxed control arms.  Comments?

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 13:52:05 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: air cleaner question

In a message dated 98-07-28 09:07:46 EDT, you write:

<< 'm betting it should plop right on like it was at home, provided you
 have the same style carb (4bbl most likely) and the heat tube on the
 passenger side of the engine.  >>

The heat tube is on the driver's side, and yes, it's a 4bbl. I need the heat
tube to work and a '71 442 sounds right. Any ideas where I can get one?
TIA
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv. (dual exhausts)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 13:55:32 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: Trans cooler

Actually, to get maximum cooling, you should run the lines into the
trans cooler and then back into the radiator. That way, you get a
doubling effect, will also help spread the heat over a larger  surface
area, helping disperse it better.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Peter Landowski [SMTP:PETTRIX@prodigy.net]
> Sent:	Monday, July 27, 1998 10:25 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Trans cooler
>
> I recently installed a TH-400 in my 72 442 and instead of running the
> cooler lines into the radiator, I ran them directly into the outside
> trans
> cooler. It is a PermaCool trans cooler that is 3/4"wide and has about
> 4
> rows. It is mounted right in front of the radiator, so it gets good
> air-flow.
>
>  Is this a good set-up or is it better to have run the lines into the
> radiator??
> Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 14:03:18 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Rust

In a message dated 98-07-28 11:52:06 EDT, you write:

<< Has anyone found a way to suspend the rust that forms inside the
 >rear
 >>      quarter panels around the wheel areas?  >>

Just as a note, I don't know what's inside your quarter panels, but I fear in
the '75 Deltas the put a sound deadening material that inadvertantly works as
a sponge . That is why I have to redo my quarters every few years. Anyone else
notice this problem?  BTW on ships, they use a sacrificial metal (Ithink it's
magnesium) which draws the rust to it. I wonder if cars could do the same. Any
engineers care to comment?

Bruce
75 Delta 88 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 14:25:30 -0400
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: SSI Wheels

I've got a line on four SSI wheels for a 69 complete with caps and rings
(14" x 6"), like new.  Anyone got an idea what these are worth.  Wayne
Schwartz

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 13:23:44 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: SSI Wheels

Ahh, no offense, but if they are for a 69 then there wouldn't be any
trim rings.  We are talking trim rings right.  The SSI on my 69 W-31 are
all chrome with center cap.
As for price, I've usually seen between $100 and $300 depending on
condition.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

>----------
>From: 	Wayne Schwartz[SMTP:wschwart@iaw.on.ca]
>Sent: 	Tuesday, July 28, 1998 1:25 PM
>To: 	olds chat
>Subject: 	SSI Wheels
>
>I've got a line on four SSI wheels for a 69 complete with caps and rings
>(14" x 6"), like new.  Anyone got an idea what these are worth.  Wayne
>Schwartz
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 13:32:51 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Trans cooler

OK, thanks for the advice. I'm going to get a Tran temp gauge put in, so
like this I will know exactly what the temp should be.
I heard that 170 - 200 F is where the temp should be, is that correct??
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Proietto, Fernando [Ontario] <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
> To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject: RE: Trans cooler
> Date: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 12:55 PM
>
> Actually, to get maximum cooling, you should run the lines into the
> trans cooler and then back into the radiator. That way, you get a
> doubling effect, will also help spread the heat over a larger  surface
> area, helping disperse it better.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:	Peter Landowski [SMTP:PETTRIX@prodigy.net]
> > Sent:	Monday, July 27, 1998 10:25 PM
> > To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject:	Trans cooler
> >
> > I recently installed a TH-400 in my 72 442 and instead of running the
> > cooler lines into the radiator, I ran them directly into the outside
> > trans
> > cooler. It is a PermaCool trans cooler that is 3/4"wide and has about
> > 4
> > rows. It is mounted right in front of the radiator, so it gets good
> > air-flow.
> >
> >  Is this a good set-up or is it better to have run the lines into the
> > radiator??
> > Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 11:33:48 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rust

> BTW on ships, they use a sacrificial metal (I think it's magnesium)
> which draws the rust to it. I wonder if cars could do the same.

They do. Ummm... (scratches head) the name "zinchrometal" comes
to mind. It's got a sacrificial layer of zinc on it which fights
off the rust for a while before the steel gets attacked. I think
they make heavy use of that sort of stuff in cars, or at least
they did in the '70's or '80's until maybe something better came
along. The treatment of the metal could be one-sided or two-sided,
depending on the application.

It's been a while since I saw much mention of it in ads or catalogs,
but that might just be because it's now in routine mainstream use.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 13:33:43 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: Rust

>the '75 Deltas the put a sound deadening material that inadvertently works as
 >a sponge .

My 4-4-2 had that type of material around the wheel housings next to the
quarters.  It does act a sponge and absorbs moisture, holding it so rust can
form.  I believe it was originally a sound deadener.  Take it out and throw it
away before it does more damage.  I have never heard of anyone replacing it
after quarter repair.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 14:36:41 -0400
From: "Weaver, Stanleigh G" <Stanleigh.Weaver@PHL.Boeing.com>
Subject: 307 Olds

Dear List members,

has anyone installed an Edelbrock Performer (#3711) Intake and Performer
Cam (#3712) into a 307 Olds engine? I have a 1984 (Non-roller) motor
with 5A heads and am seriously considering these items as replacement
for stock. If anyone has performed this upgrade, how did it run??

Also, I'm looking for a G-body Posi rear, anyone have one for sell??

SW, '84 Olds Cutlass Supreme



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 13:46:50 -0700
From: Steve Reed <SSREED@IBM.Net>
Subject: Colorado Car Shows??

I know this is a late request considering I'm leaving on Thursday Morning,
but if anyone knows of any car shows, in the Denver, Fort Collins, Aspen,
Frisco area Please reply to me either on the list or privately(Preferred).
I'm going on a quick week's vacation, trying to get out of the continuous
100' + weather of Central Texas

- -Steve
'70 4-4-2 Convertible
Austin, TX

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1393
*********************************
