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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1396


oldsmobile-digest       Thursday, July 30 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1396



Re: Paint
Re: Electric Choke
Proportioning? Valve for a '64-66 single line system
Flame wars?  Was I need some opinions on stripe color
Re: Paint
Re: Flame wars?  Was I need some opinions on stripe color
Holley carb power valve
Re: Flame wars?  Was I need some opinions on stripe color
Re: Wheels
Re: Flame wars?  Was I need some opinions on stripe color
80 Olds 350 running rough
Returned mail: User unknown
Re: Wheels
yet another 80 Olds PVC valve question
Returned mail: User unknown
Re: 80 Olds 350 running rough
Re: Master cyl bore size??new style master,long
Re: yet another 80 Olds PVC valve question
Re: 80 Olds 350 running rough
Returned mail: User unknown
Re: yet another 80 Olds PVC valve question
Re: yet another 80 Olds PVC valve question
Re: 80 Olds 350 running rough
Returned mail: User unknown
Re: 80 Olds 350 running rough
Re: Holley carb power valve
75 olds Omega
NEED helpW/DIPSTICK
Performer Vacuum
need dipstick help
Re: NEED helpW/DIPSTICK
Re: I need some opinions on stripe color
FS:wheels, mirror
Re: need dipstick help
Re: Hood Latch Clips
Re: need dipstick help
wheels
Re:  I need power locks
Re: Ploy swaybar bushings
RE:  307 Olds
Date:	Thu, 30 Jul 1998 07:08:39 -0400
Distribor Curve Question for Olds 455
Axle play, please help
RE: Paint
RE: Subject: Electric Choke
Re: Electric Choke
RE: 75 Olds Omega
Re: Edelbrock Heads
403 olds
Weather Stripping
What do the Olds Heads and Intake manifold weigh?
Re: Hood Latch Clips
Re: 80 Olds 350 running rough

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 19:20:13 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Paint

the gun probably needs to be adjusted the clear isnt the same weight as the
color and the finish only needs to be wet sanded and buffed if you are not
satisfied with the finish as is such as orange peel runs etc
if you decide to wet sand then use a backing pad maguires sells one and so
does 3m they keep the sand paper flat start with 600 grit do one panel at a
time stay away from the edges and body lines use a soapy water mixture sand
until the finish is evenly dull no further this will be when the orange peel
is gone then switch to 1000 grit and repeat in the 90 degree direction until
you see no more 600 grit scratches then start with maguires #3 followed by #
2 then finish with
#7 show car glaze this will be the final coating the wax should be carnauba
paste wax  but any wax will dull the #7 finish hope this helps...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: DROLDS350@aol.com <DROLDS350@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Cc: DROLDS350@aol.com <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, July 29, 1998 7:19 PM
Subject: Paint


>A question to all the paint experts. I just painted my Rallye 350 with the
PPG
>Deltron base coat clear coat. I have been using a HVL Sharp 975 paint gun.
>Does the gun needed to be adjusted when spraying the clear compared to the
>base coat. It seams that the gun is not  getting enough clear out. Also, do
>all base coat-clear coats nned to be wet sanded and buffed? Could somebody
>explain how to do it?
>Thanks,
>Jim McKeague

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 19:38:46 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Electric Choke

>If your car always starts first kick, you could just power the choke from
>any source that's hot when the key is in the 'on' position. Just be aware
>that the choke is openning as you crank the motor over, and never leave the
>ignition on without the engine running.

I'm new at this electric choke thing (have a manual, and the cars i've had
before were
run from the manifold).
So you are saying that when there is power to the choke it is open?
So if you wired the choke to the battery with a switch, when you turned the
switch
on the choke would open.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 19:44:05 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Proportioning? Valve for a '64-66 single line system

Anyone have a sorce for a new brake block/ proprtioning valve for a single
line system?
I' bought  a couple used ones,1 was rustedand the other had a stripped thread 
.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 20:49:32 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Flame wars?  Was I need some opinions on stripe color

>  was thinking about is a alcohol type flame coming from the front end. What 
do
>  you think? >>
>
> NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!

Heh heh...  The ~best~ flame job I've ever seen was a pearl/clear flame.  In
certain lights, they ~jumped~ out at you, but in others, you couldn't even tell
they were there.  Sweet...  ~and~ nasty!  :)  Too cool :)


Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 21:53:27 -0500
From: "Paul D. Pate" <rocket455@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Paint

I have used this paint before.  You have to remember that the clear has
no pigment in it.  It just appears to not be spraying enough.  The real
question is if it is getting on the car.  If it isn't covering the
basecoat then you need to adjust the gun.  This clear can be sanded and
buffed to provide a near mirror finish.  I used 1500 grit paper, then
followed with a medium buffing compound, and finished with a fine
compound to remove the swirl marks.  You might want to do this before it
fully cures, otherwise the paint will be so hard you might not be able
to get all of the swirl marks out.  This final factor, IMHO is the down
side of this paint system as is chips very easily.  Good luck!

Paul Pate

>A question to all the paint experts. I just painted my Rallye 350 with
the PPG
Deltron base coat clear coat. I have been using a HVL Sharp 975 paint
gun.
Does the gun needed to be adjusted when spraying the clear compared to
the
base coat. It seams that the gun is not  getting enough clear out. Also,
do
all base coat-clear coats nned to be wet sanded and buffed? Could
somebody
explain how to do it?
Thanks,
Jim McKeague<

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 19:51:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: John <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Flame wars?  Was I need some opinions on stripe color

- ---Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com> wrote:

> Heh heh...  The ~best~ flame job I've ever seen was a pearl/clear
flame.  In
> certain lights, they ~jumped~ out at you, but in others, you
couldn't even tell
> they were there.  Sweet...  ~and~ nasty!  :)  Too cool :)

   Hey Charley..is that the equivilent(close enough) to "GHOST FLAMES"?

==
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73 http://www.442.com/mcjunkin.html
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof-307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!
 mailto:super442@yahoo.com


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 22:57:37 -0500
From: "patrick derkacz" <patrickd@wwnet.com>
Subject: Holley carb power valve

What is it, what does it do and how can you tell if its bad?

The Jegs catalog seems to indicate this thing goes bad easily, I am
wondering if this might be why my carb is running so  rich.

patrickd@wwnet.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 21:04:40 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Flame wars?  Was I need some opinions on stripe color

>    Hey Charley..is that the equivilent(close enough) to "GHOST FLAMES"?

Probably.  The term "phantom flames" comes to mind, too.  Not sure.  I'd 
imagine
they're all one-in-the-same.  Sure looked cool though.


Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 23:11:59 EDT
From: <RICH6986@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Wheels

this is not really a reply but anyone who does know the url for the olds ss
wheels could you also send it to me to i have the rims from a 69 skylark they
are in good condition i just need to repaint them i boght them at a junk yard
all four for $20.00 but i would like to see what olds rims i can get  TIA
Rich
82 cutlass supreme
85 cutlass supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 23:14:04 EDT
From: <Cnvrt67@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Flame wars?  Was I need some opinions on stripe color

speakin of ghost flames.... when my dad has the body on his 72 convertible
redon and repainted, he is gonna have a ghost w-30 stripe put on it. so when
you see it in the sun it will turn red and blue and many other colors. i think
it will me cool.

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible
http://members.aol.com/Cnvrt67/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 23:20:37 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <jlabay@ee.net>
Subject: 80 Olds 350 running rough

I just got dont detailing the motor on my 442.  Looks damn good if I don't
say...beats the stock look I had since I got it.  Before I painted the motor it
ran smooth. I didn't remove any vacuum lines when I painted it...I tied them up
and had them pulled up by the hood. Well now I go and put things back in place
and started it. The motor runs, real good power...but shakes back and forth. 
The
shake is bad on startup and improves a little once warm.  Now I have been over
every vacuum connection at least 10 times (went by diagrams and old pics of my
motor I have close up).  Everything is in place.  Checked the distributor..it
has no water inside nor any paint.  Plugs and wires are brand new I removed and
reinstalled. What could be causing the shake back and forth? Timing? I dunno.
Any advice is appreciated.

Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500     88 Trans Am GTA
75 Hurst/Olds W-25    80 Olds 442 W-30
72 Cutlass Supreme Drag Car

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 23:12:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: MAILER-DAEMON@merge1.mergetel.com (Mail Delivery Subsystem)
Subject: Returned mail: User unknown

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<00b101bdbb69$07302d80$2c58bed1@default> From: "Jason P. Labay" 
<jlabay@ee.net>
To: "Oldsmobile Mailing List" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca> Subject: 80 Olds 350
running rough Date: 	Wed, 29 Jul 1998 23:20:37 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; 	charset="koi8-r" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 
7bit
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Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca X-SpamBouncer: 1.00h (5/20/98) X-SBRule:
Small Fry X-SBRule: Pass-No Pattern Matching

I just got dont detailing the motor on my 442.  Looks damn good if I don't
say...beats the stock look I had since I got it.  Before I painted the motor it
ran smooth. I didn't remove any vacuum lines when I painted it...I tied them up
and had them pulled up by the hood. Well now I go and put things back in place
and started it. The motor runs, real good power...but shakes back and forth. 
The
shake is bad on startup and improves a little once warm.  Now I have been over
every vacuum connection at least 10 times (went by diagrams and old pics of my
motor I have close up).  Everything is in place.  Checked the distributor..it
has no water inside nor any paint.  Plugs and wires are brand new I removed and
reinstalled. What could be causing the shake back and forth? Timing? I dunno.
Any advice is appreciated.

Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500     88 Trans Am GTA
75 Hurst/Olds W-25    80 Olds 442 W-30
72 Cutlass Supreme Drag Car

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 20:18:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: John <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Wheels

- ---RICH6986@aol.com wrote:
anyone who does know the url for the olds ss
> wheels

    For all who missed it,here it is again
http://www.flash.net/~texas442/wheels.html

John
==
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73 http://www.442.com/mcjunkin.html
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof-307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!
 mailto:super442@yahoo.com


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 23:25:39 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <jlabay@ee.net>
Subject: yet another 80 Olds PVC valve question

When I put chrome edelbrock valve covers on my 442 this week I lost a place to
hook up my PCV valve.  The hose coming off the bottom front of the carb that
plugged into the PCV has no hookup now.  If I take the hose off the car 
stumbles
and dies when put into gear. What should I do with this hole? Plug it up? Run a
short piece of hose with the PCV valve attached to it, yet just exposed to the
air instead of plugged into a valve cover? My breathers don't have a hookup on
the side for the vacuum line.  Thanks

Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500     88 Trans Am GTA
75 Hurst/Olds W-25    80 Olds 442 W-30
72 Cutlass Supreme Drag Car

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 23:17:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: MAILER-DAEMON@merge1.mergetel.com (Mail Delivery Subsystem)
Subject: Returned mail: User unknown

The original message was received at Wed Jul 29 23:17:27 EDT 1998
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<jlabay@ee.net>
To: "Oldsmobile Mailing List" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca> Subject: yet another
80 Olds PVC valve question Date: 	Wed, 29 Jul 1998 23:25:39 -0400 
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Small Fry X-SBRule: Pass-No Pattern Matching

When I put chrome edelbrock valve covers on my 442 this week I lost a place to
hook up my PCV valve.  The hose coming off the bottom front of the carb that
plugged into the PCV has no hookup now.  If I take the hose off the car 
stumbles
and dies when put into gear. What should I do with this hole? Plug it up? Run a
short piece of hose with the PCV valve attached to it, yet just exposed to the
air instead of plugged into a valve cover? My breathers don't have a hookup on
the side for the vacuum line.  Thanks

Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500     88 Trans Am GTA
75 Hurst/Olds W-25    80 Olds 442 W-30
72 Cutlass Supreme Drag Car

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 21:24:29 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: 80 Olds 350 running rough

> I just got dont detailing the motor on my 442.  Looks damn good if I don't
say...beats the stock look I had since I got > it.

Good...
 What could be causing the shake back and forth? Timing? I dunno. Any advice is
appreciated.

Hmm.  Almost want to suggest to ~triple~ check the firing order, make sure you
didn't accidentally swap a couple plug wires.  I've seen that happen
(personally) once or twice too often...  I've also done the Krylon Overhaul on
the GS, in the past.  Didn't think I'd be reusing the plugs, so I painted them,
too...  (Better them than the pistons...)  Well, had to run the plugs, so I
cleaned em off and put the wires back on.  Stumbled a bit, since I couldn't get
all the crap off 'em...  But since you've replaced all yours, I'd suspect 
that's
not the problem.  Unless you maybe got a bad plug or something...  Maybe 
smacked
the electrode or something?

Oh, and as for the "good power" thing...  Just remember, an Olds on 6 is
stronger than a che*y on 8!  :)

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 23:27:05 EDT
From: <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Master cyl bore size??new style master,long

In a message dated 98-07-28 23:57:08 EDT, you write:

<< I noticed you replaced the power booster.  Something you might check is the
 location of the clevis pin from the booster to the brake pedal.  Power brake
 applications use the lower hole in the pedal.  If inadvertently installed in
the
 upper hole (for manual brakes) the working angle of the rod is off and will
be in
 a bind, causing a rock hard pedal and poor braking abilities.
 Just a thought...

 Greg Rollin >>
Thanks greg but it is in the lower hole. And i did infact even try the upper
hole made the pedal much easier to push but when it came up it was getting
stuck. And it wasnt easy getting it into that upper hole. Im going to take my
master apart and see what the bore size is. Before i do that i did notice when
i bolted it on it seemed not tobe flush with the booster like the rod in the
booster was to long by .100''. So as you make the master tight it engages the
master slightly. Im going to try some shim stock.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 21:34:19 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: yet another 80 Olds PVC valve question

> When I put chrome edelbrock valve covers on my 442 this week I lost a place 
to
hook up my PCV valve.

Whoa... Chrome???  So much for stock points :(   Better trade in value that
way?  :)

With the PCV system working, the carb is factory tuned to have that big vacuum
leak happening there.  When that "leak" gets "fixed" :) the carb still tries to
keep it rich.  Problems.  You ~could~ run the PCV hose up to the air cleaner, 
or
some other breather fashion, or you could adapt the new valve covers to
accomodate.  Or you could modify the carb to run right without the PCV.
However, without the PCV system functional, any blowby gasses will exit through
those new chrome breather elements.  Or the oil fill tube.  Say "bye-bye" to
those pretty chrome covers, and "hello" to greasy chrome.  Those crankcase
gasses gotta go somewhere, and go they will.  Personally, I'd find a way to get
the PCV Valve back into the valve cover where it can do it's job.  Get a 
braided
hose for it, and it'll look great.  OOooooorrrrr...    IF you're trashing the
stock idea, you ~could~ opt for headers and a crancase evac system...  But that
would still require some cover mods, too.  And carb changes...  and exhaust
mods...  and...

What I did with mine was this.  The breather cap on the pass side (with the 
tube
running up to the air cleaner) no longer has that tube.  Still got the rubber
part on it, though, and the PCV valve fits in it OK.  So there it sits, while
the chrome breather sits in the other valve cover.  Tacky, though.  But on that
greasy engine, who cares....  I got's much worse problems...  :)


- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 23:51:15 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <jlabay@ee.net>
Subject: Re: 80 Olds 350 running rough

>Hmm.  Almost want to suggest to ~triple~ check the firing order, make sure you
>didn't accidentally swap a couple plug wires.  I've seen that happen
>(personally) once or twice too often..

I can go over that again but I swear I got it right. Hopefully the Chilton
manual doesn't lie :-)

>Didn't think I'd be reusing the plugs, so I painted them,
>too...  (Better them than the pistons...)  Well, had to run the plugs, so I
>cleaned em off and put the wires back on.

I painted my plugs at first also. Cleaned them up with steel wool and they were
as good as new.

>Oh, and as for the "good power" thing...  Just remember, an Olds on 6 is
>stronger than a che*y on 8!  :)

That is unless it is an LS1 Chevy V8 :-)

Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500     88 Trans Am GTA
75 Hurst/Olds W-25    80 Olds 442 W-30
72 Cutlass Supreme Drag Car

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 23:43:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: MAILER-DAEMON@merge1.mergetel.com (Mail Delivery Subsystem)
Subject: Returned mail: User unknown

The original message was received at Wed Jul 29 23:42:59 EDT 1998
from  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

- ----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors -----
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- ----- Transcript of session follows -----
... while talking to merge1.:
>>> RCPT To:<lee@merge1>
<<< 550 Bad recipient
550 lee@merge1... User unknown
Reporting-MTA: dns; merge1

Arrival-Date: Wed Jul 29 23:42:59 EDT 1998
Final-Recipient: RFC822; lee@merge1
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Last-Attempt-Date: Wed Jul 29 23:42:59 EDT 1998
>From oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca  Wed Jul 29 23:42:55 1998
Return-Path: <oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca>
Received: from halifax.chebucto.ns.ca (halifax.chebucto.ns.ca [129.173.4.205])
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<oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; Wed, 29 Jul 1998 23:53:33 -0400 (EDT) Message-ID:
<00ba01bdbb6d$4f29a2c0$2c58bed1@default> From: "Jason P. Labay" 
<jlabay@ee.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca> Subject: Re: 80 Olds 350 running rough Date:
	Wed, 29 Jul 1998 23:51:15 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: 
text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-2" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3
X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.2106.4
X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.2106.4 X-Orcpt:
rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h chebucto.ns.ca
oldsmobile-mml" Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca X-SpamBouncer: 1.00h (5/20/98) X-SBRule:
Small Fry X-SBRule: Pass-No Pattern Matching


>Hmm.  Almost want to suggest to ~triple~ check the firing order, make sure you
>didn't accidentally swap a couple plug wires.  I've seen that happen
>(personally) once or twice too often..

I can go over that again but I swear I got it right. Hopefully the Chilton
manual doesn't lie :-)

>Didn't think I'd be reusing the plugs, so I painted them,
>too...  (Better them than the pistons...)  Well, had to run the plugs, so I
>cleaned em off and put the wires back on.

I painted my plugs at first also. Cleaned them up with steel wool and they were
as good as new.

>Oh, and as for the "good power" thing...  Just remember, an Olds on 6 is
>stronger than a che*y on 8!  :)

That is unless it is an LS1 Chevy V8 :-)

Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500     88 Trans Am GTA
75 Hurst/Olds W-25    80 Olds 442 W-30
72 Cutlass Supreme Drag Car

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 23:46:45 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: yet another 80 Olds PVC valve question

Jason,
The pcv valve will go into the rubber grommet in place of the breather.
You can also buy a breather with the extra tube for the hose attachment.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 23:56:04 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <jlabay@ee.net>
Subject: Re: yet another 80 Olds PVC valve question

Yeah. I got tired of the ultra anal show judges picking my car apart at shows 
in
the stock class.  Never seen judges as bad as the ones here at the local Olds
club shows in the past. So I figure I will enter the modified classes and
hopefully place.  I have no problem placing second at the AutoRama's..but the
local shows are tough to place in (not to mention I am not in the show scene
buddy system so it is tough :-) I need to keep those valve covers clean, never
know when I will find a mint GN setting around :-)

Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500     88 Trans Am GTA
75 Hurst/Olds W-25    80 Olds 442 W-30
72 Cutlass Supreme Drag Car

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 23:53:23 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 80 Olds 350 running rough

In a message dated 98-07-29 23:49:37 EDT, you write:

<< I can go over that again but I swear I got it right. Hopefully the Chilton
manual doesn't lie :-)
  >>

Believe me, it does : ) head bolt tightening sequence for BB Ch*v, and bore
size for 327's. I would double check anything in Chiltons after I found these,
in my eyes, large discrepancies.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 23:47:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: MAILER-DAEMON@merge1.mergetel.com (Mail Delivery Subsystem)
Subject: Returned mail: User unknown

The original message was received at Wed Jul 29 23:47:44 EDT 1998
from  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

- ----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors -----
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- ----- Transcript of session follows -----
... while talking to merge1.:
>>> RCPT To:<lee@merge1>
<<< 550 Bad recipient
550 lee@merge1... User unknown
Reporting-MTA: dns; merge1

Arrival-Date: Wed Jul 29 23:47:44 EDT 1998
Final-Recipient: RFC822; lee@merge1
Action: failed
Status: 5.1.1
Diagnostic-Code: SMTP; 550 Bad recipient
Last-Attempt-Date: Wed Jul 29 23:47:44 EDT 1998
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Return-Path: <oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca>
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<00bd01bdbb6d$fae84f80$2c58bed1@default> From: "Jason P. Labay" 
<jlabay@ee.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca> Subject: Re: yet another 80 Olds PVC valve
question Date: 	Wed, 29 Jul 1998 23:56:04 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 
Content-Type:
text/plain; 	charset="iso-8859-2" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit 
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X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.2106.4 X-Orcpt:
rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h chebucto.ns.ca
oldsmobile-mml" Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca X-SpamBouncer: 1.00h (5/20/98) X-SBRule:
Small Fry X-SBRule: Pass-No Pattern Matching

Yeah. I got tired of the ultra anal show judges picking my car apart at shows 
in
the stock class.  Never seen judges as bad as the ones here at the local Olds
club shows in the past. So I figure I will enter the modified classes and
hopefully place.  I have no problem placing second at the AutoRama's..but the
local shows are tough to place in (not to mention I am not in the show scene
buddy system so it is tough :-) I need to keep those valve covers clean, never
know when I will find a mint GN setting around :-)

Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500     88 Trans Am GTA
75 Hurst/Olds W-25    80 Olds 442 W-30
72 Cutlass Supreme Drag Car

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 22:00:09 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: 80 Olds 350 running rough

> I can go over that again but I swear I got it right. Hopefully the Chilton
manual doesn't lie :-)

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Make sure 5 & 7 aren't switched.  I've also seen 4 & 8 swapped on occasion.
(Not like I've seen it enough to be ~statistically~ accurate, but I've seen
those mistakes the most...  Also seen 'em wired in backwards, but they usually
won't start that way!  :)

> >Oh, and as for the "good power" thing...  Just remember, an Olds on 6 is
> >stronger than a che*y on 8!  :)
>
> That is unless it is an LS1 Chevy V8 :-)

Yeah, in which case, it'd have to be ammended to read an Olds on 7...

:)

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 00:13:15 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Holley carb power valve

patrick derkacz wrote:
>
> What is it, what does it do and how can you tell if its bad?
>
> The Jegs catalog seems to indicate this thing goes bad easily, I am
> wondering if this might be why my carb is running so  rich.

Simply put, the power valve is a spring loaded diaphragm check valve,
operated by engine vacuum.  It's located in the primary metering block.
When it opens, it allows more fuel in the carb so it covers up the
"hole" that appears during a part throttle acceleration.  Unfortunately,
any backfire MAY blow it out. Vacuum normally holds it shut, until you
start to accelerate at a part throttle, such as going up a hill.  Not
enough of a pump shot, so the power valve opens due to low vacuum, and
dumps a little more fuel in at a preset vacuum signal.  If it is set too
high, it will open sooner, and if set too low, opens later.  You can
tell the vacuum that its preset for by looking at the valve when it is
out.  It will have numbers stamped in them around the edge, such as a
typical 6 on one side, 5 on the other, indicating it is set for 6.5" Hg.

Newer holleys have a check ball installed in the vacuum port in the base
to try and prevent a backfire from blowing out the valve.  If the engine
is running WAY too rich at a higher vacuum condition, it could be
blown.  Replacing it requires disassembly of the front bowl and metering
block.  Not complicated, but gaskets love to stick, making cleaning of
the parts a pain.

2 cents
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 22:23:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: cecilia laughton <laughton@silcom.com>
Subject: 75 olds Omega

Omegas---it seems they are the stepchildren of the Oldsmobile family. I
don't hear much about them here or anywhere else. I acquired a nice '75 baby
blue one, or is it sky blue? 2-door sedan from a little old lady recenty.
Only 66k miles on it and was wondering if it was worth anything (she
practically gave it to me). It has bucket seats, a/c, p/s, but, and I've
learned this might be a disadvantage- a Buick 350. It possesses a 4 bbl carb
and Turbo 350 trans. It has bucket seats, a padded Landau roof, and has a
center console with shifter in it. It also has the color-keyed Ralley
wheels. And yes, it unfortunately has a cat converter, which I'm afraid,
renders it undesirable in the world of olds collectors. The car is really
clean, but I'm afraid it's an orphan. Also, what does it take to make the
secondaries kick in? We over-hauled the carb, but I've yet to see this happen.

Cecilia Laughton

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 02:04:20 EDT
From: <W31Sleeper@aol.com>
Subject: NEED helpW/DIPSTICK

HI ALL!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 23:08:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dave Welsh <dlwels@yahoo.com>
Subject: Performer Vacuum

Can anyone tell me the proper location for vacuum lines on an
Edelbrock Performer for a '69 350.  There's so many holes, and so few
fittings.  What works the best?


==
Dave Welsh  dlwels@yahoo.com
1553 Read Road
Janesville, Wisconsin 53546
(608) 756-4352

'70 Cutlass S "on the way"
'69 Cutlass "soon to be parts car" Supreme
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 02:10:27 EDT
From: <W31Sleeper@aol.com>
Subject: need dipstick help

hi all!!!! the sleeper is running, found oil leak,coming from a hole in the
dipstick (oil) tube,pulled it  out-tried to!!!!!!  broke off at the block
hole,still stuck in block , what can i do to remove it,short of dropping the
oil pan & exhaust manifold ???????? any help appreciated!!......THANKS IN
ADVANCE !!!!!!! w31sleeper@aol.com
Rob

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 00:11:02 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: NEED helpW/DIPSTICK

> HI ALL!!

Uhh.....  well...   HI there!  :)

So, uhh....  who's, I mean, what's the dipstick problem?  <LOL>  :)

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 01:18:46 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: I need some opinions on stripe color

I am going to paint my car this fall and was thinking of the folllowing :
It's a 72 442 convt

Dark Blue exterior
White W-30 stripes on side and Ram-Air Hood
White Top
Black Interior

The white stripes stand out alot more than black stripes would on a dark
color exterior...
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Andrew C. Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: I need some opinions on stripe color
> Date: Wednesday, July 29, 1998 9:07 AM
>
> > It's a 70 Cutlass 'S' and I'm painting it either Twilight blue
> > or Astro Blue.  My question is this, what color stripes should
> > I get, black or gold?  I've got a blue interior.
>
> COLOR OF STRIPE: Comments (Effect on bystanders)
> ------------------------------------------------
> LIGHT BLUE: Lighter shades complement the body color and look
> very factory in appearance ("Cool! An original factory paint job!")
>
> DARK BLUE: Ditto, if your body color is a light shade ("Ditto!")
>
> BLACK: Makes sense if you've got tinted windows and blacked-out
> trim; otherwise it looks kind of funereal ("Look, Marge, a
> funereal Cutlass!")
>
> GOLD: Very contrasty; will look like it was added because the
> body color needed jazzing-up ("Hey, he needs gold-plated nameplates
> to go with that!")
>
> WHITE: You can't get more contrasty, but I wouldn't try it without
> a white (or light blue) interior to go with it ("Hey, Marge, he
> should have used light blue because lighter shades complement the
> body color and look very factory in appearance!") Whoops, this is
> where we came in...   :-)
>
> -- Andy
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 01:17:42 -0500
From: senator@itis.com (Robert F. Newbegin Jr.)
Subject: FS:wheels, mirror

I was cleaning out my garage last weekend and came across a panoramic
rear-view mirror.  It fits over your existing mirror, and allows you to see
*everything* behind you.  I'll say, maybe, $4 + shipping?  I dunno.  Make
me an offer, I don't want it.
Also, I have the 4 SSIII wheels for sale.  I posted these a while ago, and
finally got pics.  I've also decided that I will sell all 4 (or fewer, if
you want).  One needs repair, I think that somebody with a welder could put
a little weld along where the tire seals to it, its a little pitted and
leaked slowly last time I used it.  They appear to have been kind of red or
burgandy, but have been painted black (prev. owner, not me).  I would paint
them again before using them.
I have all 4 trim rings and 3 center caps, 2 of these have decals.
The wheels are stock which are 14x6, but a guy at the tire place measured
them and said they were 14x6.5.  Bolt pattern is 5x4.75.
I'm on digest mode, so please send replies to senator@itis.com.  I have
pics of the wheels, so let me know if you want to see (they are about 125k
apiece).

Make me an offer, you pay shipping.

Bob
'78 CS

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 00:18:33 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: need dipstick help

Aaah...  Much better :)

> hi all!!!! the sleeper is running, found oil leak,coming from a hole in the
> dipstick (oil) tube,

> what can i do to remove it,short of dropping the
> oil pan & exhaust manifold

I've heard rumors of on-car extractors for the tubes.  Not sure if they'd work
on a broken-off one, though.  Didn't Chris Witt have those???  You might 
contact
him, mailto:wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
My best guess, at least.  He dropped off the list, but I ~think~ he still reads
his mail.  If not, I think his Rocket Science page on 442.com shows a 
snailmail,
if all else fails.  Good Luck!


- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 18:00:47 +0900
From: James Zito <jimzito@uriel.net>
Subject: Re: Hood Latch Clips

Kerry,
Do they have a web page or phone that you know?

Jim
69 442 conv
Kerry Kroger wrote:

> check the auveco catalog they should have it..kk
> >

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 18:04:41 +0900
From: James Zito <jimzito@uriel.net>
Subject: Re: need dipstick help

> > hi all!!!! the sleeper is running, found oil leak,coming from a hole in the
> > dipstick (oil) tube,
>
> > what can i do to remove it,short of dropping the
> > oil pan & exhaust manifold
> Last time this thread showed up, I think the answer was to thread an
appropriate > sized sheet metal screw into the stub and work it out with vise
grips or a dent > puller.

hope this helpsJim69 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 07:01:53 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: wheels

I just want to thank everyone who sent me the url for the page with
the wheels pictured. I now have it bookmarked so I should be able to
keep up with it.

Thanx again all................
Mike........................

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 06:51:08 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re:  I need power locks

Armor All and the variants will kill the power lock/window switches.
The silicone gets on the contacts and burns, then you have an open
connection.  My 80 T/A has the switches on the center console, so it is
VERY easy to get stuff in them and they fail on you.  You can do as
JJP442@aol.com said and disassemble and clean.  Mine had silver
contacts, so it did fine.

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 06:47:16 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Ploy swaybar bushings

You will have to disconnect the end links, then connect the frame to
bar, then reconnect the endlinks.  This is much better to do.  Then it
will line up ok.

If the endlinks are at an angle (not too extreme) it is ok.  Look how
Chrysler installed the shocks on the old cars, at a 60 degree angle, or
worse (looses effectiveness, but helps handling).  I have the  Rancho
bar and it uses the spherical end links and are adjustable for the bar
tension and you can preload the chassis with them.  Shame Rancho does
not make them any more.  The Herb Adams bar is very good, it uses the
spherical end links but the bar is not adjustable.  But I have heard
some Impala owners complain about long delivery times.

Any Impala SS owners that have a HA bar?

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 06:55:37 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE:  307 Olds

Ditto on the cam specs!  I would like a little more cam, but need LOW
duration.  But around .450 lift.  (What does a stock 3A head flow?)

Has anyone installed the 307 HO cam in a 350?  Sounds like a GREAT daily
driver cam, and even a mild hi po cam for street racing.  .440/.440
lift, unk duration.  Did any other Olds ever come with a similar cam?

Pontiac kept the 067 cam grind around for a long time.  Eventually
dropping the lift from .410 to .367.  The 301's used the same cam, and
the 301 Turbo uses .350 lift!  I wondered it Olds kept the grind around
and just tweaked it a little for modern day.

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 07:08:39 -0400
From: "Bob Neumann" <unitron-rneumann@ic.net>
Subject: Date:	Thu, 30 Jul 1998 07:08:39 -0400

unsubscribe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 07:06:45 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Distribor Curve Question for Olds 455

Quick question for all the Olds people with 455 olds motors.

I have the medium spring and the light spring in my 455 my timing is set at
20. I was wondering what everyone else has there motor set at. And also what
carb are you running too. I want to compare notes with everybody.


Thanks
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
11 Wins 10 Losses
======================

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 07:10:39 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Axle play, please help

Should the play of an axle be the same on both?  My axle has more play on
the right then on the left side and I was wondering was this normal and if
not what causes this.


Thanks
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
11 Wins 10 Losses
======================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 23:58:47 -0400
From: "Kerr, Brian (R)" <kerrb@basf-corp.com>
Subject: RE: Paint

Decided to send this to the whole group. It made me decide to paint my car
myself, and helped me achieve an excellent job on my car.

>A question to all the paint experts. I just painted....
...snip...
>somebody explain how to do it?
>Thanks,
>Jim McKeague


There is a bulletin board on the net that is an excellent resource for all
your painting q's. There is a BASF/Glasurit guy named Len Stuart, and a PPG
rep by the name of Shannon, and both of them are very knowledgeable. Give it
a try at:

 http://horizonweb.com/wwwboard/spray_101/wwwboard.html

or do a search on Spray Painting 101 WWW Board

Len has produced a video that is very good technically and I recommend it
highly. If anyone contacts the board tell them it was posted on our Olds
List.

Brian Kerr
69 Cutlass Conv

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 07:39:50 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: Subject: Electric Choke

If your mech says to hook it up so it gets turned on and off, go find
another mechanic.  He is clueless!

The electric choke is AUTOMATIC by itself!  Do you REALLY want it to
close while you are driving?  Duh!  The choke uses a bimetallic coil
that when cools makes a complete circuit.  When it warms up it moves
away from the +12V side and turns off, when it cools, it will reconnect
itself and warm back up.

The reason is simple, you want the choke to be on when the engine is
cold, not warm.  When it is warm you want the carb to control mixture.
When cold the carb cannot make the mixture rich enough so it needs the
additional help of the closed choke to get to the needed richness.
Typically around 5:1, and on a cold day, even 3:1.  The engine temp will
keep it open only somewhat on a cold day, but when the intake temp is 10
degrees, and the engine coolant temp is up to 160, the choke will
actually close!  I know, I had it happen on my 455 when I blocked off
the heat riser to the intake manifold and had the divorced choke.

You want the choke to be wired to ignition only HOT.  You don't want the
choke to be on when you are not in it, then it will stay open all the
time, and kill your battery!  Ideally you want it to be switched with
something like the oil pressure sender or alternator idiot light so that
when the engine dies on that 10 degree morning, and you are inside, the
choke does not keep warming up and make it hard to restart.

I am not sure you can just arbitrarily connect to the oil pressure
sending unit line unless it is designed to.  My 80 T/A came with
electric choke, so you could connect it there.  It would turn off the
choke if the engine died because it was connected to the alternator wire
that flashes the alt to turn it on.

The reason I know about the carb you have, is I have one!  (1407 with
electric choke)

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 08:04:45 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: Electric Choke

FWIW, I once had a Holley carb with electric choke.  It was wired to a source
that was hot when the key was in the run position.  That caused it to open too
soon at times.  On the Holley choke there was a wire that went to ground to
complete the circuit.  In the Holley catalog they had a device that bolted
down under an intake bolt and had a wire coming out of it.  The device sensed
engine heat and caused a thermal activated switch to slowly close like a
rheostat and ground the choke as the engine warmed.  This slowed down the
opening of the choke until the engine was warm.  It was not a perfect solution
as it caused the choke to open too slow at times in sub zero weather.  I ended
up running a second ground wire to a switch in the vehicle for the times I
needed the choke to open all the way.  I believe the device was called a
"thermodyne", but it has been almost 20 years ago.  I do still have mine in my
tool box.  I ended up using the switched ground wire all the time and
eliminated the device, which in effect gave me a semi-manual
electric choke.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 09:13:37 -0400
From: "Weaver, Stanleigh G" <Stanleigh.Weaver@PHL.Boeing.com>
Subject: RE: 75 Olds Omega

Cecilia laughton wrote:

>>-it seems they are the stepchildren of the Oldsmobile family.

Personally I have always liked the little Omega's. If you have one in
good condition, I would hang on to it.

>>I don't hear much about them here or anywhere else.

More reason to hang on to it.

>>And yes, it unfortunately has a cat converter, which I'm afraid,
renders it undesirable in the world of olds collectors.

I'm sure that most of us would prefer not to run cats if we could get
away with it legally. However, if you live in PA as I do you are stuck
meeting the new "Enhanced Emission" laws that were put into place last
year for all 1974 and newer vehicles (PA is trying to be like
California). You are exempt from the emission testing if you drive your
car less than 5,000 miles per year, but since my 1984 Cutlass S is my
daily driver I had to find a way to add performance and still remain
emissions legal. Therefore, I don't think an Olds becomes "undesirable"
if it has a converter. Here's what I did to remain emissions legal: I
installed a 2.5" dia. Hi-Flow Cat off the stock head pipe. Then I
installed a "Torque Technologies" Cat-Back system which consists of a
Y-Pipe that immediately splits into two 3" dia. mandrel bent pipes that
run to the rear axle into two 2-chamber Flowmasters. 3" dia. tail pipes
exist the mufflers, go over the rear and out behind the rear tires. Even
with wide tires there is plenty of clearance. I highly recommend the
"Torque Technology" systems. They make them for A, F and G-body's.

>>Also, what does it take to make the secondaries kick in? We
over-hauled the carb, but I've yet to see this happen.

I had a similar problem with my Q-jet and I found that the coil spring
which raps around the secondary linkage was not in it's proper place.
Look at this spring on your secondaries and see if it is hooked in
place. If it seems to be protruding up or forward it's probably not set
right. It should be hooked under part of the secondary linkage pointing
toward the firewall at about a two o'clock position. If you have a book
on Q-jets with pictures it will be easy to understand what I'm trying to
say. Hope this helps!

SW
'84 Cutlass S
'94 Ford Lightning (For Sale)


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 09:26:11 -0400
From: tgstoner@umich.edu
Subject: Re: Edelbrock Heads

On Wed, 29 Jul 1998 Ben <olds442@primenet.com> wrote:
> . . . I laugh when their advertisement says, "Made by enthusiasts, for
enthusiasts..."
> If it were made by enthusiasts, then we would have had the heads LONG
AGO, am I
> right?  . . .

*****************

Probably not.  If their motto was "Made by a big corporation, for
enthusiasts", the supply line would probably be alot quicker and alot
wider.  The facility manufacturning these heads may not have the capacity
to have even one machine set up for each step of the process at any one
time.  If they have to switch tooling and setup on a machine for different
steps of the process, I can certainly understand why they run each piece in
a batch through a step, before going on to the next step.  And if they
don't have enough capacity (machines) that they can have one set for
running Oldsmobile heads AND another set at the same time for running Chevy
heads, the need to meet the biggest volume of orders unfortunately will
take priority.  I think that the chances for (eventually) getting a higher
quality product is probably greater when dealing with a small operation
though.  I mean that to translate into the old "the wait will be worth it".
I'd worry though, if they're really starting with 150 raw castings and
ending up with only 50 or so "good" pieces.  If that's the case, they're
either going to have to; 1 - lower their standards; 2 - drop the product;
or 3 - raise the price considerably.  Of course, none of those choices are
desireable.


And remember, like Ben's posting this is mostly only my opinion.

Tom Stoner
Oldsmobile Club of America #3943
Ann Arbor, MI
tgstoner@umich.edu

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 07:34:53 -0700
From: "Tim" <tropical@micron.net>
Subject: 403 olds

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BDBB8C.8AEC4F00
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Can someone explain the difference of the toronado h.p. motor an the =
standard 403 motor, what is different about these jewels? can you =
recommend a good stock head for this motor, i am building one up for =
street stock circle track racing. Any input on this race motor would be =
helpful as i am new to the olds thing. Thanks Tim Wurtz contact me at =
tropical@micron.net=20

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<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Can someone explain the difference =
of the=20
toronado h.p. motor an the standard 403 motor, what is different about =
these=20
jewels? can you recommend a good stock head for this motor, i am =
building one up=20
for street stock circle track racing. Any input on this race motor would =
be=20
helpful as i am new to the olds thing. Thanks Tim Wurtz contact me at <A =

href=3D"mailto:tropical@micron.net">tropical@micron.net</A>=20
</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BDBB8C.8AEC4F00--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 09:44:34 -0400
From: "Weaver, Stanleigh G" <Stanleigh.Weaver@PHL.Boeing.com>
Subject: Weather Stripping

Members,

Does anyone know where I can get new Weather Stripping for my 1984
Cutlass S. I need it around the doors/windows top and bottom.

Any contacts would be greatly appreciated
thanks,

SW
1984 Cutlass Supreme
1994 Ford Lightning (For Sale)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 08:50:14 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: What do the Olds Heads and Intake manifold weigh?

======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
11 Wins 10 Losses
======================

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 06:49:39 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Hood Latch Clips

dont think so on the web page but they do have a phone number cant seem to
find it right now will reply directly with info but any body shop or auto
body supply store should have the catalog...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: James Zito <jimzito@uriel.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, July 30, 1998 2:02 AM
Subject: Re: Hood Latch Clips


>Kerry,
>Do they have a web page or phone that you know?
>
>Jim
>69 442 conv
>Kerry Kroger wrote:
>
>> check the auveco catalog they should have it..kk
>> >
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 06:54:19 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: 80 Olds 350 running rough

1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 counter clockwise on dist odd on left even on right
#1 is front left that should be correct but the distributor may not be in
the correct orientation...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jason P. Labay <jlabay@ee.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, July 29, 1998 8:49 PM
Subject: Re: 80 Olds 350 running rough


>
>>Hmm.  Almost want to suggest to ~triple~ check the firing order, make sure
you
>>didn't accidentally swap a couple plug wires.  I've seen that happen
>>(personally) once or twice too often..
>
>I can go over that again but I swear I got it right. Hopefully the Chilton
manual doesn't lie :-)
>
>>Didn't think I'd be reusing the plugs, so I painted them,
>>too...  (Better them than the pistons...)  Well, had to run the plugs, so
I
>>cleaned em off and put the wires back on.
>
>I painted my plugs at first also. Cleaned them up with steel wool and they
were as good as new.
>
>>Oh, and as for the "good power" thing...  Just remember, an Olds on 6 is
>>stronger than a che*y on 8!  :)
>
>That is unless it is an LS1 Chevy V8 :-)
>
>Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
>98 Silverado C2500     88 Trans Am GTA
>75 Hurst/Olds W-25    80 Olds 442 W-30
>72 Cutlass Supreme Drag Car
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1396
*********************************
