Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1308


oldsmobile-digest       Saturday, June 13 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1308



evil headliner
weird parts
Re: So. Wisc. yards (long)
455 Rocket!!!  At last :)
403/thm400
The Performance Professor (engine, not olds)
how much power??????
Re: The Performance Professor (engine, not olds)
Re: Doug's cam bank angle question
Re: The Performance Professor (engine, not olds)
NO oil on CAST RINGS
Re: diff codes
Re: NO oil on CAST RINGS
Re: Doug's cam bank angle question
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1307
Re: ATTENTION LIST:
Re: evil headliner
Re: Doug's cam bank angle question
Wiper Woes
Rockit cruises once again
RE: how much power??????
Re: evil headliner
List members -SPECIAL -mouse pads
Re: So. Wisc. yards (long)
measurements: '68 98 Convert
How to get lifters out?
Re: Fwd: MCR Performace Clinic
Re: Bench to Buckets..  78-88 G-Body.
Re: How to get lifters out?
Shifter ball??
Re: Doug's cam bank angle question
Re: Shifter ball??
69 Toronado Engine??
Re: It good to be back
Re: how much power??????
Olds performance powerhouse motors
Switch Pitch ID Tips [long]
Re: Please help with Sport Steering Wheel install
Re: Shifter ball??
Doors for 86 Cutlass 2-door.
Re: Doors for 86 Cutlass 2-door.
Re: Olds performance powerhouse motors
Re: 69 Toronado Engine??
Re: So. Wisc. yards (long)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Jun 1998 22:59:11 -0500
From: senator@itis.com (Robert F. Newbegin Jr.)
Subject: evil headliner

I ordered the "Napped Cloth Headliner" from JC Whitney.  Basically, it is 3
rods, some brackets, some screws, and a big piece of cloth.  (I thought it
would be pre-cut when I ordered it, but I didn't return it.)

Installation is made harder when you remove the original headliner (like I
did), so be sure not to remove the old one unless it is *really* bad.
Without the old one, it is really hard to tuck the new headliner cloth
under the moldings.

Right now, it looks pretty bad.  I think I will get some foam to stick
between the moldings and the headliner.

Has anyone else done this?  Any suggestions (other than to get a decent
junkyard headliner)?

Bob
'78 CS

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Jun 1998 23:00:07 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <coarl@cyberramp.net>
Subject: weird parts

Weird part 1
I ran out of Freon yesterday. I'm in Texas. I was wearing polyester pants.
It was gross. Needless to say, I went to the auto parts store to buy a new
accumulator, and O-rings so that I could fix the leak. I discovered a weird
A/C setup is on my car. It's a 75 Cutlass Salon. I went to the local Delco
parts house and the guy said $140 for the "VIR." He also said that 75's
didn't have accumulators, they had VIR's. I'm not particularly familiar with
the VIR. But he brought out a contraption that I recognized as an early GM
A/C part. It was a big bottle with multiple hose inlets and obviously has an
expansion valve within. It is not what is on MY car. He couldn't help me any
further, to I went to Pep Boys. They suggested that I remove the parts and
bring them in. Did that. Turns out that I have a 1980's style accumulator
plain aluminum cylinder on low pressure side). They didn't have it but we
found it in a book. Went to Hi/Lo and they had it. The really weird thing
is: it doesn't have an orifice tube like the 1980's model. It has an
expansion valve. The parts guy had never seen one like it. There are no part
numbers on it. It has a big hole (low side), medium hole (high side), and a
small hole (?) in which goes a small line that goes into the evap box. No it
is not the temp probe. The valve looks almost like a big brake proportioning
valve. It also has no part nos. on it.
The best I can figure, is that it has a dealer/aftermarket  A/C unit. The
compressor is Delco. This car has most of the toys. It would surprise me
that the factory would build this car without A/C.

You may be saying: so what?

I need to know if anyone has experienced this same sort of thing on
early-mid 70's cars. I was successful in reusing the valve, but someday I
will need to replace it. Where can I find something like this.

Weird part 2
This may not be weird but according to my emissions decal, the Q-jet on my
carb is supposed to have capped mixture screws. Last night I noticed that
not only are they not capped but they aren't even recessed. They stick out
1/4" or so like any old 60's Q-jet. Does it sound like the carb's been
replaced?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 00:51:06 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@viperlink.net>
Subject: Re: So. Wisc. yards (long)

Robert F. Newbegin Jr. wrote:

> Quite a few good gauge clusters (round speedos and rectangular).

This is a general reply...  Mainly towards you, but the list can help...
<G>

Looking for what I believe is a 79 Gauge...  It's a silver gauge
cluster, not the black that we are used to seeing in the G's...  It's an
85 MPH Sweeper, but it's modeling in silver, not painted...  I would
like to drop some Auto-Meter Phantom Gauges in the car, this one matches
the pattern, sorta...  It also has a PRNDSL, instead of PRND21.

Next time you are out that way, LMK.
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Jun 1998 22:57:49 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: 455 Rocket!!!  At last :)

Well, I finally found a 455 for me:)  Hopefully go get it tomorrow, weather
permitting.  73 Toro, 65K miles.  Should be a good engine.  It's been sitting
for a while.  Been wrecked.  Suspension components and interior condition lead
me to believe the odometer is accurate.  Looks clean.  Except for the front
end.  Apparantly a head-on crash.  I guess she walked away from it, but I'd
really hate to see the ~other~ car... or truck ;)  The front of the driver's
side fender is about even with the axle.  It must have hit ~hard~!!!  Can't get
the hood pried open yet, but I can stick my head under it (and probably crawl
through to the other side!)  J heads, of course, but what the heck.  Hardened
seats (and brittle seals...)
Soon, I say...  Soooooooooooooooon!!!!!
- --
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The Oldsmobile Magnet ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Charley Buehner ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com ~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~ mailto:charley@rocketship.com ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~ http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Sidney, Montana ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
To remove yourself from this list, or for other
    Olds mailing list questions, click here:
 http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 01:24:38 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: 403/thm400

Whoever replied to my post regarding the 403/400 combo, please re-send
it...somehow got deleted. Thanks!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 01:40:04 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: The Performance Professor (engine, not olds)

Hey all!

I know I posted about this at the beginning of the week, and for those who are
on the digest I apologize for the repetition (although there should be a
difference of about 5 digests..).

However, I believe that this is important enough.

Besides, if I can just get Doc Barry or Ken Snyder to check out the HiPo Prof,
it would be well worth it.

Background.

www.racermall.com is hosting a series of "lectures" (text on a web page) by
Jim McFarlane, the "Performance Professor", who has some considerable
experience:

Hot Rod Magazine, Editor and Publisher, 1965-68
Schiefer Manufacturing Company, Director of Engineering, 1968
Edelbrock Corporation, Vice President of Research and Development, 1969-88
McFarland, Inc., President, 1988-94 (McFarland, Inc. was a R&D facility for
high performance parts and engine development for OEM and aftermarket
manufacturers)
Flowmaster, Inc., Director of Marketing and Motorsports, 1993-95 (merged with
McFarland Inc.)
AutoCom, Inc., President, 1994-present (AutoCom, Inc. is an automotive
communications and consulting firm)
Author of over 400 technical/feature articles on the automotive industry
Former driver for the Sox & Martin factory drag team and work with leading
drag racing and NASCAR teams in engine development for 20+ years
Recent Awards:
Hot Rod Magazine's Hall of Fame
SEMA Person of the Year
Car Craft Magazine "All Star Drag Racing Team" (twice)
Car Craft Magazine "Ollie Award"

Get that??
*Edelbrock* R&D VP!!!

After reading a few lectures, I realized that we often ask the wrong questions
in this forum.

An example.....(one we have seen many times).....

"What (tube) headers will fit my olds???"

How many times have we seen that?
The REAL question is:

"What existing tube header set has specifications closest to these, and will
increase my torque out put in the XXXX range?"

Little bit of a difference, huh?

The lectures are addressed to combustion engine concerns in general.

Not GM or Ford or Chrysler.

Just gearheads who wanna know the technical stuff.

I Emailed Jim McFarlane thanking him for making the tech available to us
little people.
Here is his response:

<<Dear Karl,    <that's me>
Your comments are most appreciated.  I've been doing this sort of thing for
three decades, feeling along the way that a higher level of technical
discussion would be acceptable to automotive "audiences" but being told by
print media editors that it would not.  When I approaced the Tech 2000 people
least year and suggested the format, they "bit the bullet" and took on the
concept.  Last month, about 60K "students" visited the lecture.  While this
isn't a large number by cyberspace standards, at least a following is
developing.  These weren't GoRacing visitors. They were visitors to the
lecture.  Additionally, if the cross-section of E-mail is any indicator, a
higher intellectual plane of interest does, in fact, exist.  I hope you will
continue to enjoy the material...for as long as it lasts.>>

So, not only is it really pithy stuff, but he has been *pushing* to make it
more widely available.

And if you really needed a reason...

The July topic will be camshafts.

Serious stuff for serious gearheads.

The Performance Professor is located in www.racermall.com, and is linked to
from the home page of www.GoRacing.com.

I am going to contact the Tech2000 people to see if I ight link directly to
the professor from my home page.

I must finally apologize to all for taking up bandwith to rave about tech that
can be applied to cars other than Oldsmobiles. I am sorry.



Karl Aune
and Soylent Ocean Mist
1965 Dynamic 88 Celebrity Sedan
Members; IVOC and OCA (#029458)
Chicago, IL

KarlAune@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

KarlAune is a trademark of World Domination Ltd., a subsidiary of Microsoft

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 01:45:11 EDT
From: <GenLee1678@aol.com>
Subject: how much power??????

i want re build the engine in my 86 442 it is now a completely stock 307 HO i
was wondering if any one had any sugestions as to what i should do to get
maximum performance on the street and the track I am looking for any
sugestions ,cam ,intake ,heads,headers.carb,ammount i should bore
it...........




                               christian lamont
                               86 442
                               williamsport pa

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 02:02:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: The Performance Professor (engine, not olds)

At 01:40 AM 6/13/98 EDT, you wrote:
 [snip]
>www.racermall.com is hosting a series of "lectures" (text on a web page) by
>Jim McFarlane, the "Performance Professor", who has some considerable
>experience:
 [snip of considerable credentials]
>After reading a few lectures, I realized that we often ask the wrong questions
>in this forum.
>
>An example.....(one we have seen many times).....
>
>"What (tube) headers will fit my olds???"
>
>How many times have we seen that?
>The REAL question is:
>
>"What existing tube header set has specifications closest to these, and will
>increase my torque out put in the XXXX range?"
>
>Little bit of a difference, huh?

heh... yeah, the second presumes not only that there *is* a header that will
fit your car, but that you'll even have a choice as to the diameter and
length of its primary tubes!

Karl, call over to your local Pep-Boys, and tell them that you want a set of
headers with a 1.65"i.d.x32"long primary tube, equal length (of course), to
fit your '65 88, because that will maximize your power in the 1400-3400 rpm
range that you normally drive in... I'm sure they need a good laugh! :)

I'm not trying to pick on you here; knowing the fundamentals that McFarlane
would teach are essential, but when you try to put them into practice,
you'll find yourself making compromises due to parts availability,
interference with other parts and other variables. If you had the time,
money, tools and skill, you could optimize your car exactly as this course
would teach you; in most of our cases, we have to settle with what is "good
enough" to suit our purposes.

 [snip]
>So, not only is it really pithy stuff, but he has been *pushing* to make it
>more widely available.
>
>And if you really needed a reason...
>
>The July topic will be camshafts.
>
>Serious stuff for serious gearheads.

I will most certainly be looking up that site; thanks for the tip!

Just as long as he doesn't presume we all drive Ch*vies... ;)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 02:16:55 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Doug's cam bank angle question

In a message dated 98-06-12 23:26:59 EDT, you write:

<<  For the 425's, if it had the big lifter (.921"), it had the 39' bank;
these
 were the Toronado and the Starfire engines (i.e. the high-performance
 425's). If it had the .842" lifters, it was the 45' lifter bank block. I
 can't say about the 400ci motors.>>

Is that the rule?

I recently discussed (in this forum) with Chris Brown Witt and Jim Chermac
that same question.

The last statements (those which I could not refute for lack of experience was
that ALL "A" and"B" blocks were 45 degree cam bank angle.

I infer from your statement that the (425cid) engines with big valve "B" heads
had the 39 degree bank angle.
Right?

What about "A" blocks with "B" heads (saw one in one of the "correct" 1966
W-30s at Lansing Centennial)?

Is that an "A" block with a 39 degree cam bank angle?
Or a lying Oldsmobiler?

Chris and Jim, I am sorry to bring this up again, but this thing has GOT to
get settled somehow!

I swear, with this list (and Jim McFarlane) as my witness, that I, Karl Aune,
founder of The Holy Order of Rocketeers, will not rest (for very long), until
I have had the heads and intake off of every "A" and "B" block that I meet, so
that I might discern for myself this quite unholy dilemma of which blocks have
the 45, and which have the 39 degree cam bank angle. This I swear.

(Bailiff: "...Do you swear?!?" Curly: "No. But I know all the woids.")

And now that I have my "donor" 4bbl manifold cleaned up, I just have to wait
for the money thing, 'cause I need an electric choke, cam kit, jet kit, and a
replacement vacc diaphragm for my Holley 0-1850. (Damn good thing it was only
$50).



Karl Aune
and Soylent Ocean Mist
1965 Dynamic 88 Celebrity Sedan
Members; IVOC and OCA (#029458)
Chicago, IL

KarlAune@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

KarlAune is a trademark of World Domination Ltd., a subsidiary of Microsoft

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 02:38:57 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: The Performance Professor (engine, not olds)

In a message dated 98-06-13 02:07:22 EDT, you write:

<<   knowing the fundamentals that McFarlane
 would teach are essential, but when you try to put them into practice,
 you'll find yourself making compromises due to parts availability,
 interference with other parts and other variables. If you had the time,
 money, tools and skill, you could optimize your car exactly as this course
 would teach you; in most of our cases, we have to settle with what is "good
 enough" to suit our purposes.  >>

'Nuff Said!

I do agree that availability is a limiting factor.

I am, however, finding that there is (at this writing) not such a paucity of
parts for Oldsmobile as I believed only three months ago.

For example:

Mr. Gasket Inc. (or whatever the conglom is called) offers a Hi-torque, low
weight, low current draw starter in enough models to fit most cars. Including
Oldsmobile's 1965 88's. Some alterations to localized wiring may be needed
(read as "is required"), but it can be used in street cars. This is a
relatively new product offered in variations for most car makes. I only found
this out by contacting them directly.

While Jeg's latest catalog lists as many as five (or so, left the catalogue at
work) headers that fit 1965-66 application (ignoring of course the triple-
bypass brought on by tring to install them), how do I know that those are
*all* the headers available that fit my application?

Even though Oldsmobile HiPo parts are few and far between, some do exist.
The numbers and market percentage do not truly matter.

What is required is the knowledge to know what my performance needs
specifically are. And also to ask of performance parts "Which is right for my
performance needs?"


Karl Aune
and Soylent Ocean Mist
1965 Dynamic 88 Celebrity Sedan
Members; IVOC and OCA (#029458)
Chicago, IL

KarlAune@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

KarlAune is a trademark of World Domination Ltd., a subsidiary of Microsoft

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 00:46:02 -0600
From: "Igor" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Subject: NO oil on CAST RINGS

What would happen if I put no or VERY little oil on cast rings and pistons.
 Will the engine size on start up or what will happen.  I think I put very
little oil on the #7 ring and am scared that it is too little.  Should I
take it out and reoil it.  I would rather not but of course if I have to, I
will.  Thanks for the input.

Igor Todorovic, UofC
1981 Delta 88 (455/TH400, 255/60/15 BFG, 2.41limited slip)
1981 98 Regency (every option, 307/200r4/propane)
1976 Delta 88 (now parts car, was 455)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360, RVcam, 4:10 gears, tire smoker, king off the line)
1995 Intrepid (3.3L, dads car, okay, but no Delta)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 03:22:48 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: diff codes

Rick,
The diff code that you are looking for is two letters only. Long ago I posted
a message much like you did. I got no response because the code I posted was
probably something like the axle tube code (not necessarily realted to diff
code).

Keep looking.

The Oldsmobile differential gear sode is notoriously difficult to find. I have
owned my car for over two years and found the code only late last year. It is
QC, or 2.93:1. Mechanically this is 41:14, which refers to the actual teeth on
the actual gears in the differential.

And this brings me to my next point.

How long since you changed differential gear oil?

If you are due for a change (I would recommend yearly, I do more often as mine
is a daily driver), look at your gears. They have the (in my case) 41 and 14
stamped on the edge of the gears.

I did have to look long and hard to find my code. The code is supposed to be
facing the front of the car on the passsengers side of the axle at
approximately the midpoint between the edge of the diff housing and the brake
baking plate. I found "QC" on the passengers side of the axle, but facing
backwards, and high on the axle! Pretty much at an angle to face my spare
tire!

I have access to a digital camera at work and will try to take pics of the
code and its location on Monday, for posting *on*my*web*page*!

Please, do not post pictures in Oldsmobile Email!

Good luck.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 03:32:25 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: NO oil on CAST RINGS

In a message dated 98-06-13 02:46:48 EDT, you write:

<<  I think I put very
 little oil on the #7 ring and am scared that it is too little.  >>

Igor,
There is an easy fix. (IF it is not too late)

0) Wait to see if other list personnel disagree with my suggestion.

1) Pick up some Marvel Mystery Oil (top cylinder oil) at your local auto parts
store.

2) Remove spark plug for cylinder #7.

3) NOT from the can (oil on threads might be bad if not specified by chassis
manual!), but however possible (turkey baster?) insert oil through spark plug
hole into cylinder.

4) Wait as long as possible. 1 day?

5) Start car.

6) Go cruising. Pick up girls who like Oldsmobiles.

7) On second thought, stay there, I will be by to pick you up!!     :)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 03:42:45 -0400
From: Jim & Jo Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Doug's cam bank angle question

Karl

        If you saw a 66 W-30 with an "A" block in it it was incorrect. They
were all  "E" blocks for all 66 - 67 442's. 65 442's were "A"s. All the "E"
block 400's were 39 degrees and had the .921 lifters in them. Both my 66 &
67 W-30 cars have this engine in them.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 04:12:06 EDT
From: <TheSpekter@aol.com>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1307

    I have installed a wiper motor. I expected everything to go smootly, but
when I tried to test it, it just moved the wipers about 6 inches, then it
would stop working. I have the  variable speed wipers. I put the switch on
low.. I had to connect the 2 wires together from the motor, and I have a
replacement washer pump too.
   Did I forget something in the installation? And why when I followed
directions to install
wont the wipers move? I didnt move the connector,I just snapped it on as the
instructions
stated. After the motor would move the wipers abit, the motor would stop. I
tried different
settings, but it wont work. It did start to work when I removed the connector
from it, and only then does it start to run, but no motion for the wipers.
Could this unit be defective?
   I expected it to work being it appeared to be a simple installation. Does
anyone have
a suggestion to help me?  It would be appreciated.
    Thanks,  Mike

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 01:32:52 PDT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: ATTENTION LIST:

Only partially true.  Some e-mail programs allow you not to see this.
If you didn't set up your system you may not know.  Check your settings.

What T.J. is refering to is the unix tag information.  Also gives date,
military time, and where it came from...

****************************************************
>From oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca Fri Jun 12 18:14:51 1998
Received: by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca id <42221-27350>; Fri, 12 Jun 1998
22:07:53     -0300

Date:	Fri, 12 Jun 1998 21:07:27 -0400

From:	THOMAS JACQUILLARD <tjacquillard@InfoAve.Net>
****************************************************
This is also helpful in tracing spams from anonymous boneheads.  They
are not as anonymous as they think.

Later,

Chris Rivier
'66 Delta 88..."The Beast,"  cruisin.
'88 Festiva..."Zippy"  162K+@ 40 mpg, neeed I say more.


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 01:41:32 PDT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: evil headliner

Well,

Around here the going rate is between $75 and $150 for professional
replacement.  Definitely worth the $$$$$.

Later,

Chris Rivier
'66 Delta 88..."The Beast"
'88 Festiva..."Zippy"  160K+@ 40 mpg, neeed I say more.


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 04:49:25 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Doug's cam bank angle question

In a message dated 98-06-13 03:46:41 EDT, you write:

<<         If you saw a 66 W-30 with an "A" block in it it was incorrect. They
 were all  "E" blocks for all 66 - 67 442's. 65 442's were "A"s. All the "E"
 block 400's were 39 degrees and had the .921 lifters in them. Both my 66 &
 67 W-30 cars have this engine in them.  >>

So an "E" block with a "B" or "C" head?

This is part of *my* problem. 1965, "A" blocks and some "B"s in 400cids. 1966,
blocks "B", "C", "D", "E"...

Surely there must have been guidelines!

Reasons for using a block in a particular application.

Right??

Why so many letter castings?

What is different about "C","D", "E" blocks?

It is way too late for this..........


Karl Aune
and Soylent Ocean Mist
1965 Dynamic 88 Celebrity Sedan
Members; IVOC and OCA (#029458)
Chicago, IL

KarlAune@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

KarlAune is a trademark of World Domination Ltd., a subsidiary of Microsoft

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 02:50:04 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Wiper Woes

>     I have installed a wiper motor. I expected everything to
>  go smoothly,

Well, there's your first problem.  ~Nothing~ ever goes smoothly, unless you're
~not~ expecting it to, and then it's only recognized ~after~ it's completed
("Hmm.  Ya know, that ~actually~ went smoothly.  I sure didn't expect that!")

Your second problem is most likely the delay module.  They're famous for doing
goofy things, regardless of which electronic style they are.  As for how to
cure?  See if you can find another delay module to try, perhaps?  Don't know
much else about 'em.

Is this a GM unit, or some other aftermarket delay module?  New or used?  The
other questions leave me asking that.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The Oldsmobile Magnet ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Charley Buehner ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com ~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~ mailto:charley@rocketship.com ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~ http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Sidney, Montana ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
To remove yourself from this list, or for other
    Olds mailing list questions, click here:
 http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 03:03:53 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Rockit cruises once again

Well, in light of the new-found 455, I set out to get the Rockit prepared for
it.  It'll have to work for it, though.  Gotta trailer the Toro home (tomorrow?
Maybe...) about 8 miles away, not too much of a journey.  (News just said it's
supposed to rain tomorrow.  Maybe it'll wait...)  Anyway, the Rockit will be
towing home her organ donor ~sometime~ soon.  To that end, I put plugs in it
today.  Since they'll be shot, I didn't buy new ones.  Pulled the old ones out.
Pulled the ~older~ ones out of the old heads.  Pulled the set out of the 82's
260.  (Dead for a head gasket-- must be close, #7 is plum full of rusty water
(uh oh.)) Anyway, between the three sets, I took the 8 worst and stuck 'em back
in the 260.  The 8 best went in the Rockit.  (I own like fifty point files,
can't find a one...  Too bad Napa's closed at 1AM...)  Neighbors were looking 
at
me funny.  Out in the street at 1:30 changing plugs in the dark...  (Figured I
could do it with my eyes closed, so I tried it for a while.  I was right.)  I
~did~ have a flashlight there, but I only used it when I dropped a socket or
something.  You don't see ~that~ on HotRod TV!  So, 2 AM, I fire it up and run
downtown.  First cruise since Easter.  Sputters a bit, but still plenty of
power.  Backfire every now-and-again, but still...  Stopped at Mini Mart, BS'd
for a while.  Left, did a burnout, barked into second, and headed home.  
Halfway
there, backfired and stalled.  Uh oh, won't crank.  Uh oh...  Stopped, and
grabbed flashlight (feeling glad I didn't waste the batteries earlier...)
Fiddled around the starter (ouch- ouch== ~ouch!~ Hot down there...) Wires are
feeling a bit tough alright.  Wiggle 'em a bit, see a few sparks (don't move 
'em
that way!) got back in and started it back up.  So, back home it goes, and its
parked again.  I'll probably still use it to trailer the Toro, but might do 
some
band-aiding first.  Maybe... :)


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The Oldsmobile Magnet ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Charley Buehner ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~  mailto:buehner@lyrea.com ~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~ mailto:charley@rocketship.com ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~ http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Sidney, Montana ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
To remove yourself from this list, or for other
    Olds mailing list questions, click here:
 http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 05:17:57 -0400
From: "Angel Castrodad" <angleki@prtc.net>
Subject: RE: how much power??????

Well, me being a devoted fan of the bulletproof 307, I 'll give you the
piece of advice you'll likely get from most on the list: get a 350 or 403.
To this I say: ok, but I just can't afford it or haven't been able to get my
hands on one.

I'd recomend a few simple, on-a-budget ideas. Edelbrock peformer manifold,
change secondary jets on the carb, free flowing catalitic converter, pair of
Flowmasters or Dynomax mufflers, a performance chip for the computer, K&N
air filter, AC Delco rapidfire plugs, Jacobs Electronics or Accel 8.8mm
wires. Of course, this are personal oppinion and anyone can comment and
enlighten me.

It's not cheap to rebuild a 307 an milk it for power but they are VERY
reliable and not-so gas-thirsty.

Angel Castrodad
angleki@prtc.net


> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of GenLee1678@aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, June 13, 1998 12:45 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: how much power??????
>
>
> i want re build the engine in my 86 442 it is now a completely
> stock 307 HO i
> was wondering if any one had any sugestions as to what i should do to get
> maximum performance on the street and the track I am looking for any
> sugestions ,cam ,intake ,heads,headers.carb,ammount i should bore
> it...........
>
>
>
>
>                                christian lamont
>                                86 442
>                                williamsport pa
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 06:04:04 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: evil headliner

On Fri, 12 Jun 1998, Robert F. Newbegin Jr. wrote:
> I ordered the "Napped Cloth Headliner" from JC Whitney.  Basically, it is 3
> rods, some brackets, some screws, and a big piece of cloth.  (I thought it
> would be pre-cut when I ordered it, but I didn't return it.)

Finally, someone who ordered this thing I've seen in their catalog and
wondered about for ages! But it sounds different from what I would have
expected. Rods? I thought these napped cloth jobs just were spray-glued
to a styrofoam backer shell? Hmmmm...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 07:08:56 EDT
From: <GraphixRUs@aol.com>
Subject: List members -SPECIAL -mouse pads

To all,
I am still working to condense ROWLAND GRAPHICS price list, however I wanted
to get thison here this wek-end.
As most of you know, the regular price of our mouse pad / with yourphoto or
graphic on it is $9.95.
For the next  month we will produce it for $8.00 + postage.
The reason is two fold.
We have an "Olds Family Gallery " started here on our office ( read that old
bed room). A framed piece of 4'-0 x8'-0 cork board . We would like a picture
of all of the "list" cars &  FAMILYS on it.
Perhap this way we can get the photos to start coming in. I have only one.
THANK YOU  KEN SNYDER RACING. I would like to have everyone , then if ROWLAND
GRAPHICS  is running a SPECIAL , you see it on the list, want one (say you
forgot  a birthday) , you can e-mail us. We can have it in the mail that same
day.
 Do any of youon the west coast know of anyone running Olds circle track?
We (MACOCA) have a muscle car meet at Farmington Dragway this Sunday.
Everyone have a safe weekend.
Roger Utter

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 07:56:19 EDT
From: <MNManiac@aol.com>
Subject: Re: So. Wisc. yards (long)

<< Anyhow, I got the trim piece I needed and can get more trim stuff for
 people if it is terribly necessary [I'll ship for cost of part +shipping
 +gas (my '78 CS gets 10 mpg) ]
  >>

TEN MPG???  Yikes!  What ya got under that hood?  Even a 455 monster should do
better than that in a small '78 body!

- -Drew in Windy Western Kansas-

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 08:51:22 -0400
From: "Howard Tarnoff" <tarnoffh@norfolk-county.com>
Subject: measurements: '68 98 Convert

I have the option of driving or trailering our 68 from
Wisconsin to the Boston Area.  We have a 20'
enclosed trailer that we use for our F100 (very tight fit)
and need to know the following info:

curb weight
overall length
overall width
wheelbase

Does someone have a brochure or other spec book.

Thanks

Howard Tarnoff

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 09:31:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.edu>
Subject: How to get lifters out?

Hi guys --

Quick question -- the accompanying story is a long one, so I'll just ask
the relevant part.  Heads are off of my 260, and I wanna take the lifters
out, but they won't budge more than a third of the way out.  Tried
screwdrivers and pliers and muscles, but no avail.  What's the secret to
getting them out?

TIA -- now back to studying for the bar exam!

8)
peg

1986 Cutlass Supreme (Grey Mine)
1978 Cutlass Calais (Red Mine)
1980 Cutlass Supreme and 1986 Cutlass Cruiser (auction mines)  :))

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 09:36:48 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Fwd: MCR Performace Clinic

At 11:10 PM 6/12/98 -0400, Robert Barry wrote:
>
>Yup, the ol' Quadrajet-powered 307 was one of *the* last carbureted motor
>sold here; I think the only other things with carbs at that time were the
>Subaru Justy, the lowest-level Honda Civic, and the few AMC-powered Grand
>Wagoneers trickling out of the factory. I don't know who owns the *last*
>carburetor-equipped car sold in the USA, but they've been gone for a while
now.

Actually, I think the Jeep Wrangers were carbureted (with the 242 cui. L6?)
and the Geo Metros had carbureted L3's for a few years into the 90's, also?


Jason Adcock      OCA# 28044       1984 Cutlass Calais Coupe
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu       http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 08:55:19 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Bench to Buckets..  78-88 G-Body.

At 11:44 PM 6/12/98 -0400, you wrote:
>
>These seats are the 60% on the pass side...  Making the driver's seat
>the 40.
>
>--
>                - Jerry Christopher -
>IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
>       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

Hmm.  I had never seen that before.  I've always seen the driver's side
with 60%.  That-a-way, the driver always has the center armrest positioned
right next to him or her, regardless of where the passenger seat is
positioned.

Guess they ~did~ change it...

Jason Adcock      OCA# 28044       1984 Cutlass Calais Coupe
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu       http://www.erols.com/adcockjk

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 10:04:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: How to get lifters out?

At 09:31 AM 6/13/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Quick question -- the accompanying story is a long one, so I'll just ask
>the relevant part.  Heads are off of my 260, and I wanna take the lifters
>out, but they won't budge more than a third of the way out.  Tried
>screwdrivers and pliers and muscles, but no avail.  What's the secret to
>getting them out?

Lifter puller; kind of a mini slide-hammer that locks in the top of the
lifter, and that you use to yank it out of the bore. They *all* get stuck
just about where yours are stuck, if you've run the engine for any length of
time. Good luck!
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 07:32:01 -0700
From: Chris & Robin Miller <cya442@mindspring.com>
Subject: Shifter ball??

    What color shifter ball came stock on the '68 442 manual
transmissions?  Year One offers both a white ball with black lettering
and a black ball with white lettering.
- --
Chris Miller
'68 442
Tustin, CA
mailto:cya442@mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 10:28:36 -0400
From: Jim & Jo Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Doug's cam bank angle question

Karl

        I messed up. The "A" block is the 65 only 425 block, the "B" block
is the 65 400 for the 442. There were no "C" blocks made. The "D" block were
the 66-67 425's, both the 39 and 45 degrees used the same letter. Then came
the "E" block 400 for the 66-67 442's.

Jim Chermack

At 04:49 AM 6/13/1998 EDT, you wrote:
>In a message dated 98-06-13 03:46:41 EDT, you write:
>
><<         If you saw a 66 W-30 with an "A" block in it it was incorrect. They
> were all  "E" blocks for all 66 - 67 442's. 65 442's were "A"s. All the "E"
> block 400's were 39 degrees and had the .921 lifters in them. Both my 66 &
> 67 W-30 cars have this engine in them.  >>
>
>So an "E" block with a "B" or "C" head?
>
>This is part of *my* problem. 1965, "A" blocks and some "B"s in 400cids. 1966,
>blocks "B", "C", "D", "E"...
>
>Surely there must have been guidelines!
>
>Reasons for using a block in a particular application.
>
>Right??
>
>Why so many letter castings?
>
>What is different about "C","D", "E" blocks?
>
>It is way too late for this..........
>
>
>Karl Aune
>and Soylent Ocean Mist
>1965 Dynamic 88 Celebrity Sedan
>Members; IVOC and OCA (#029458)
>Chicago, IL
>
>KarlAune@aol.com
>http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html
>
>KarlAune is a trademark of World Domination Ltd., a subsidiary of Microsoft
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 10:29:47 -0400
From: Jim & Jo Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Shifter ball??

Chris

        The shifter ball on a console car is plain black. The non console
cars had either a white or black with the shift pattern on it.

Jim Chermack

At 07:32 AM 6/13/1998 -0700, you wrote:
>    What color shifter ball came stock on the '68 442 manual
>transmissions?  Year One offers both a white ball with black lettering
>and a black ball with white lettering.
>--
>Chris Miller
>'68 442
>Tustin, CA
>mailto:cya442@mindspring.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 10:33:47 EDT
From: <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: 69 Toronado Engine??

Is there a way to tell the difference between a 69-70 Toronado 455 and a
70,442 engine?  I know 365 horses is the stock rating for the 442, but what
about the Toronado.  I have an F block and E heads.  What is my engine out of
and what is the horsepower rating for the 69 & 70 Toronado?

Thanks,
Jim McKeague
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html">
http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html</A>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 10:43:46 -0400
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: Re: It good to be back

Robert:  any of the other Southern Ontario Olds parts dealers there eg
John Green...Dennis Hickman or don't they bother any more.  Wayne
Schwartz

Robert Schinkel wrote:
>
> Well after a short vacation and a l - o - n - g swap meet, it good to be
> back to my regular slow boring life style again.
> Last weekend I was at the Barrie Auto Fleamarket, here in Canada.  About
> 2500 vendors and not much olds parts there.
> I did pick up a set of 71 Cutlass grills, a 7028251 68 442 carb (in good
> condition), a 7043256  carb
> a set of 71 sport mirrors and a black console (70 - 72).  All these will be
> forsale except the grills, they have a tab broken off I need to repair
> first.
> A very nice week end over all.  And I had the oppertunity to meet someone
> from this list.  Its always nice to see the other olds nuts.
> The most sought after parts were and outer chrome pieces and 74 Cutlass
> grills.  Had a hole bunch of people looking for these puppies.
> There were some NOS in the boxes 68 delta grills.  And a set of 62 Olds
> Hubcaps - NEW -
>
> So what did I miss?
>
> Robert Schinkel
> docbob@caninet.com
> Niagara Falls, Canada
> 905-357-4454
> 1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 11:04:15 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Re: how much power??????

> i want re build the engine in my 86 442 it is now a completely stock 307 HO i
> was wondering if any one had any sugestions as to what i should do to get
> maximum performance on the street and the track I am looking for any
> sugestions ,cam ,intake ,heads,headers.carb,ammount i should bore
> it...........


I,also, plan on rebuilding my '86 307 (not a 442) soon and would
appreciate any suggestions and ideas on getting maximum performance
be forwarded to me along with the above list member. Only difference,
my 307 won't be running the track, just old man driving..!! Car is
100% original at this point in life and would like to keep it close
to that. Send any suggestions privately to krzy4evr@usit.net.

Thanx to all....

Mike
Ironto VA
'86 Cutlass Supreme
'71 Monte
mail to krzy4evr@usit.net



"If you could explain everything.........
 What be be left to believe in........??

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 11:57:57 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Olds performance powerhouse motors

If you were going to build a 350 and a 455 using O.E. Olds stuff, which
would be the ultimate combos for the most powerful, yet non aftermarket,
Olds motors?

If I were to build one, I'd have:

350-
- -W31 cam
- -W31 intake
- -W31 #5 heads
- -73-76 pistons (for higher compression)
- -Forged 330 crank

Anybody else have a better combo?

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
         777777 33333
            77      33
Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
          77        33
         77     33333
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 12:12:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Switch Pitch ID Tips [long]

For your perusal...

maybe someone can add this to the FAQ info?
- -------------------


               Scrounger's Guide to GM TH400
                 Switch Pitch Transmissions
           by CBWitt, *the* Rocket Scientist 6/98

- ------------- How & Why the Switch Pitch Works -----------
   Oil pressure within the trans holds the stator blades in the
converter at a low angle for more efficient coupling. With a
high angle, the stator blades offer a greater oil redirection,
increased tork multiplication, increased engine speed, maximum
performance, and less tendency to creep at idle. This higher
angle is achieved by bleeding off the pressure that held the
low angle, by applying a 12V signal to the stator control
solenoid, located on the back of the pump. This electrical
signal is fed into the trans thru the connector on the left
side, along with the power for the kickdown solenoid. The two
form a "T", with the stator control terminal being the top of
the T and the kickdown being the upright.

              Stator   |--   Detent

To summarize:
   Apply 12V ==> hi angle, high performance
   No signal ==> low angle, better economy

   In the 1965 Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual, it is stated
that switches on the throttle linkage supply the signal for
high angle at idle, and at throttle openings greater than 40
degrees. With this setup, the TH400 offers a 1st gear
multiplication ratio of 2.5 via the gears, and 2 via the
converter, for an overall 1st gear ratio of 5.0:1. Second and
3rd gears are 1.5:1 and 1.0:1, and are also subject to
additional tork multiplication from the tork converter. Reverse
gear ratio is 2.0 mechanical * 2 from the converter, for an
overall ratio of 4.0:1.

   Many GM large cars- Buick, Olds, Pontiac, Cadillac- used
this type of trans 1965 thru 1969 or so; all share the same
bellhouse bolt pattern except Chevy. Unfortunately, most
applications are the long-shaft version, with a tailshaft about
a foot long. Fortunately, these transes are "easily" [to a
trans repairman] converted to an A-body friendly short shaft
trans by simply swapping the output shaft & rear housing, which
can even be donated from a Chevy short-shaft trans.
   Due to a one-year-only, hard to find filter configuration,
the 1965 TH400's are slightly less desirable than later versions,
though they will certainly work just as well.
   The 2-speed Jetaway trans used in the 1965 [thru '69?] models
also utilized a SP tork converter- these may make good and fairly
plentiful converter donors. The matching fit has not been checked
yet, but chances are very good that they will interchange.


- ----How To Identify a SP trans or Converter by Examination----

   The trans is very easy. Look for TWO electrical terminals in
the LH side connector. This is not a *guarantee* that the trans is
SP, as later units used a wire from the trans to help control spark
advance. However, if there are 2 electrical feeds, and the year of
the trans is '65 thru '67 [see tag on RH side], then it almost surely
indicates a SP trans.

   To be certain, simply examine the trans input shaft. You will
see a smaller 1.0" fine-splined shaft protruding furthest. This is
the same for both types. You want to examine the larger 1-1/2" or so
coarsely splined protrusion that surrounds the 1" shaft. The
difference here is obvious.
   This is the key: the SP trans has a *short* splined section,
1.40" diameter by dial calipers, about *1/2"* long, behind which
is a *very smooth* section of shaft, slightly *larger* in diameter
[1.43" by calipers], and about 1-1/4" long, with a 0.160" oil feed
hole in the bottom. Behind that, the shaft necks down to about
1.270" diameter for some 3/4" and after that enters the trans.
   In contrast, the standard constant-angle stator transes' have
similar shaped splines on that larger input shaft, but these splines
are much longer, about 1-1/8" along the shaft, and behind the
splines, the shaft is SMALLER in diameter [1.270" or so] and NOT
finely machined.

- --------How To Identify a SP Converter by Examination-------
In making this guide, the SP converter was from a 1965 OA trans,
and the "normal" converter was from a early 1970's TH350. The first
and most obvious clue was on the back side of the converter, near
the snout that goes into the trans. About 2" from the converter's
shaft, there were seven plug welds about 1/2" diameter. Probably
anchors some part of the switch pitch mechanism to the converter
shell. It is not known for certain whether later models of Switch
Pitch converters or Jetaway versions have these welds, but if you
see a converter with these welds, it is probably worth examining
more closely.

   The next ID tip involves looking down into the converter. You
should remove most of the oil from it in order to see the details.
This is easily done by vacuum pump or siphoning with a small hose
[1/4" or so] overnight. Matching the trans shaft, of course,
farthest down in will be the splined hole for the 1" trans shaft.
Above that will be the more coarsely splined section which mates
with the trans's larger shaft.
   KEY: in the SP converter, there will be virtually NO GAP between
these two splined sections, and the larger coarsely splined hole,
about 1" long [deep?], begins at a depth of about 3-7/8" down from
the edge of the converter snout.

   With the standard converter, there is a gap of about 1" between
the smaller fine splined section and larger coarsely splined section.
[Aside: Into this gap, you can guide a stiff 1/4" hose to reach even
more oil when removing the oil from these units.] While this unit
also has a coarsely splined hole depth of about 1", these splines
start about 2-7/8" down from the edge of the converter snout, some
1" higher than the SP converter.

You are now an Expert at identifying SP transes & tork converters
while perusing the piles at the scrap metal dealers.
- ---------------------------------
The trans witch doctor that I go to told me that the pre-
electronic Chevy TH350's & TH400's are the most desirable cores
at this time. He paid $150 for a core [rebuildable] trans
recently. One local scrap metal dealer, on the other hand, sells
them for about $20, and another gets $50 for core transes. There
is money to be made if you know what to look for.

Such cores are vey useful for trading to the trans man for the work required to
convert your grubby old SP TH400 cores into a nice rebuilt SP short-shaft
trans!
- --
Chris Witt  *the* Rocket Scientist
1968 442 convertible, originally & to be again W30, et. al
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 11:48:31 -0500
From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Subject: Re: Please help with Sport Steering Wheel install

After more research, I belive that instead of a wire, that a spring,
eyelet and insulator is usedto make contact between the cam assembly and
the horn contact.  Is this correct?

Still looking for help

- -Dan

>
>
> cam assembly, spring, hub and wheel, washer and nut.  Also, with a wire
> with a spring that goes into the cam assembly and the end of the wire
> attaches to the tab on the horn contact.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 11:54:32 -0500
From: Dan Williams <dr_olds@pitnet.net>
Subject: Re: Shifter ball??

Generally, the non-console cars had white.  I would go with white for
non-console.  Also, remember there is two different thread patterns for the
shifter balls.

- -Dan

Jim & Jo Chermack wrote:

> Chris
>
>         The shifter ball on a console car is plain black. The non console
> cars had either a white or black with the shift pattern on it.
>
> Jim Chermack
>
> At 07:32 AM 6/13/1998 -0700, you wrote:
> >    What color shifter ball came stock on the '68 442 manual
> >transmissions?  Year One offers both a white ball with black lettering
> >and a black ball with white lettering.
> >--
> >Chris Miller
> >'68 442
> >Tustin, CA
> >mailto:cya442@mindspring.com
> >
> >
> >

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 12:18:15 -0500
From: "Ryan Hehn" <ryanh@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Doors for 86 Cutlass 2-door.

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BD96C5.57806D40
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello,

I'm considering getting my 86 Cutlass Supreme 2-dr repainted this =
summer.  The stumbling block appears to be the doors.

Being in Canada they have nicely rotted away over the years.  The body =
shop says new complete skins are $300 (Cdn.) a piece.  Do any =
aftermarket companies make brand new doors?  Or does anyone know of =
salvage yards that have rust free ones?  The yards around here =
(Winnipeg) have virtually nothing in the way of G-body Cutlasses.

Thanks in advance,

Ryan Hehn


- ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BD96C5.57806D40
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hello,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I'm considering getting my 86 =
Cutlass Supreme=20
2-dr repainted this summer.&nbsp; The stumbling block appears to be the=20
doors.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Being in Canada they have nicely =
rotted away=20
over the years.&nbsp; The body shop says new complete skins are $300 =
(Cdn.) a=20
piece.&nbsp; Do any aftermarket companies make brand new doors?&nbsp; Or =
does=20
anyone know of salvage yards that have rust free ones?&nbsp; The yards =
around=20
here (Winnipeg) have virtually nothing in the way of G-body=20
Cutlasses.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks in advance,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Ryan Hehn</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BD96C5.57806D40--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 10:34:39 -0700
From: Eric Spence <ericsp@mail.ocis.net>
Subject: Re: Doors for 86 Cutlass 2-door.

- --------------27E4AD58AFA04D013E3DD5AD
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Try Jeffery Kearney at Olds Auto Wreckers in Alberta:   yax@rttinc.com


Ryan Hehn wrote:

>  Hello, I'm considering getting my 86 Cutlass Supreme 2-dr repainted
> this summer.  The stumbling block appears to be the doors. Being in
> Canada

- --------------27E4AD58AFA04D013E3DD5AD
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML>
<BODY BGCOLOR="#FFFFFF">
Try Jeffery Kearney at Olds Auto Wreckers in Alberta:&nbsp;&nbsp; 
yax@rttinc.com
<BR>&nbsp;

<P>Ryan Hehn wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>&nbsp;<FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT
SIZE=-1>Hello,</FONT></FONT>&nbsp;<FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>I'm
considering getting my 86 Cutlass Supreme 2-dr repainted this summer.&nbsp; The
stumbling block appears to be the doors.</FONT></FONT>&nbsp;<I><FONT
COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>Being in Canada</FONT></FONT></I></BLOCKQUOTE>

</BODY>
</HTML>

- --------------27E4AD58AFA04D013E3DD5AD--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 13:46:23 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Olds performance powerhouse motors

At 11:57 AM 6/13/98 +0100, you wrote:
>If you were going to build a 350 and a 455 using O.E. Olds stuff, which
>would be the ultimate combos for the most powerful, yet non aftermarket,
>Olds motors?
>
>If I were to build one, I'd have:
>
>350-
>-W31 cam
>-W31 intake
>-W31 #5 heads
>-73-76 pistons (for higher compression)

These still had a dish, though, didn't they? If so, then the flat-top W-31
pistons would give a higher compression.

>-Forged 330 crank
>
>Anybody else have a better combo?

Not for high-rpm power; the W-31 was pretty much optimized for that, so
with 3.91 gears that's the ideal motor.

OTOH, that motor wouldn't be much fun around town in, say, an A/C equipped
'75 Cutlass with 2.73:1 rear gears and a stock torque converter...
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400
1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 360/TF727

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 13:38:22 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 69 Toronado Engine??

At 10:33 AM 6/13/98 EDT, you wrote:
>Is there a way to tell the difference between a 69-70 Toronado 455 and a
>70,442 engine?  I know 365 horses is the stock rating for the 442, but what
>about the Toronado.  I have an F block and E heads.  What is my engine out of
>and what is the horsepower rating for the 69 & 70 Toronado?

Well, a few things, though it's impossible to tell for sure (things could
have been mixed and matched over the years):

* The stock Toronado intake is noticeably lower than the intake on the 442
motor. This is the most obvious giveaway.

* All Toronados were assembled in Lansing; thus, if the engine has anything
other than an "M" for Lansing, MI in it, it wouldn't be from a Toronado.

* All Toronados from '68-'72 had carb #'s ending in "252", though this is
easy to swap.

* The Toronado oil filter adapter sticks out further from the engine, and
angles forward (to clear the stock Toronado starter, which mounts on that
side). The Cutlass oil filter would mount closer to the block. Again, this
is easy to swap, so it's not a definite sign.

* The Toronado engines were painted a light metallic blue; the '70 442
motors were a deeper blue.

* The 442 455 would have notched valve covers for clearance in the back;
the Toronado valve covers had no such notches.

* If the VIN derivative on the block shows it being a 1969 engine ("39M"
rather than "30M", then it's definitely not a 442 motor. Things may have
been mixed and matched at some point, so you could have a '69 or '70
Toronado shortblock with the '70 442 heads.

* The Toronado oil pan is deeper, and has a raised notch in the middle for
the front halfshaft to pass under; the 442 pan would slope evenly from the
front to the sump.

The Toronado engine (1969 and 1970) was rated at 375hp, but in point of
fact, it was a more mild engine than the base 442 engine in 1970. Aside
from the intake and a slightly different camshaft, a '70 Toronado engine
was identical to the small-valve big-car L-31 455, and in 1969, the only
difference was the larger intake valves.

OTOH, the specs on the 400hp W-34 motor was identical to the 390hp W-33 and
base 365hp 442 motor. So the factory hp rating doesn't mean much.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	     MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu

1969 Toronado		 455/TH425
     See it at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX	 455/TH400
1978 Electra Limited	 409/TH400
1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 360/TF727

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 13:49:18 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: So. Wisc. yards (long)

I get 13 in my '86 Salon with a 403...sounds about right to me!

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1308
*********************************
