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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1380


oldsmobile-digest       Tuesday, July 21 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1380



Re: OPC Meet in Fairfield, OH
Re: OPC Meet in Fairfield, OH
120 decals for G-body's
Stereo mounting
See Pictures from the Nationals On-line
Re: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?
Split-Fire thoughts was Re: wierd plugs ......
Re: PLEASE HELP ME, PLEASE - A Carb Problem? (Me too...)
Re: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?
Re: Stereo mounting
Re: Stereo mounting
Re: Stereo mounting
RE: 1969 Olds Covert in Seattle
Re: TX Heatwave Custom Truck and Car Show
Re: wierd plugs ( was Re: Rapidfires)
re: Rapidfires
Re: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?
Olds Nats Pics and probs w/ my 56
Re: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?
Re: Spark trivia, was splitfires, wierd stuff, etc...
Leaky Carb Plugs
Re: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?
Re: Spark trivia, was splitfires, wierd stuff, etc...
Re: Spark trivia, was splitfires, wierd stuff, etc...
Re: Stereo mounting
Re: More Olds on TV/in film
Anyone Race in Denver last week???
Re: Stereo mounting
73 Delta 88
Re: 73 Delta 88
Re: Rapidfires
Re: Rapidfires)
Re: Rapidfires)
Re: Rapidfires)
Re: Rapidfires)
Re: PLEASE HELP ME, PLEASE - A Carb Problem? (Me too...)
Re: Spark plugs
Re: PLEASE HELP ME, PLEASE
Re: Fired the 455 (was: Break-in procedure)
Re: Spark trivia, was splitfires, wierd stuff, etc...
NO Flame-Pease don't take this wrong(was See Pictures from the Nationals
On-line) Re: Stereo mounting Anybody need G-quarters? Re: wierd plugs ( was Re:
Rapidfires) AC Delco Plugs AC meaning PLEASE TAKE ME OFF THE LIST Re: More Olds
on TV Re: MY DELTA 88 is has to GO what did I do to my carb? Re: Stop shouting
and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem? Searching for e-mail address Re: 
wierd
plugs ( was Re: Rapidfires) Re: OPC Meet in Fairfield, OH Re: 73 Delta 88 Re:
PLEASE HELP ME, PLEASE - A Carb Problem? (Me too...) '72 442 Conv w/455 Re: OPC
Meet in Fairfield, OH Re: Spark plugs RE: Carb Problem?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 23:06:26 EDT
From: <R4C442@aol.com>
Subject: Re: OPC Meet in Fairfield, OH

Hey John!
    I guess I'm a little biased since the Gem City Rockets host the
Performance Chapter show and I am one of the members but I think all who have
attended will agree that there is always a fine turn-out of Oldsmobiles. We
are back at our old location (which is Fairborn, not Fairfield) which is a
much niftier spot than the last few years. Hope to see as many of the list
members as possible. I usually uncap my headers and let my hotrod talk
"dirty"!

                                                                            Ro
n Forsee
                                                                            65
442-Meister

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 22:54:39 -0400
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Re: OPC Meet in Fairfield, OH

Good show, and the Holiday Inn there is a great location!

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com
Centennial Feature at http://www.en.com/users/wmachine/wm.html
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: John Gill <jgill@idmi.com>
> To: Oldsmobile Mailing List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: OPC Meet in Fairfield, OH
> Date: Monday, July 20, 1998 9:50 PM
>
> By a show of hands, does anyone plan on attending the Olds Performance
> Chapter Meet in Fairfield, OH on weekend of July 31st to August 1st?
I'll
> make the drive but not with my Olds.
>
> Has this show been good the past few years?
>
> John
> jgill@idmi.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 20:02:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: John M <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: 120 decals for G-body's

Hi Gang,
         Well anybody interested in some 120 decals for their G-body
Rally Pacs, Finally got some made up.I've posted a preview on my
site.If interested,hit me direct.My web page is at :
       Http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/

                     John





==
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73 http://www.442.com/mcjunkin.html
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof-307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!
 mailto:super442@yahoo.com


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 22:57:04 -0400
From: Toby Blom <floridarealtor@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Stereo mounting

Hi.
I'm trying to come up with a way to mount a decent stereo in my 66
without removing the original radio, and withouth damaging any interior
part. one idea I came up with was to buy one of these new units with a
detachable faceplate, and keep the faceplate up front and trow the
stereo in the trunk (Re-wire the faceplate plug, with extension to the
stereo)
Anybody got some real clever solutions?

Toby

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 22:13:19 -0500
From: Texas442 <texas442@flash.net>
Subject: See Pictures from the Nationals On-line

Hello everyone,

We had a wonderful time at the Nationals in Springfield.  The Illinois
chapter did a super job.  I posted few pictures up at the "Texas442"
website.  Hope to see every one of you in Dallas next summer for the
1999 Nationals.  Here is the "Texas442" website address:

http://www.flash.net/~texas442/
Ali

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 23:10:44 EDT
From: <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?

In a message dated 98-07-20 19:02:43 EDT, you write:

<<
 Now this is just an opinion, but .....

 I think that the carb problems are bad gas!

 As for Sam, sorry, cannot guess without more info.
 Not sure what "blubbering"is.

 Back to carb.
 That is the thing about bad gas, no mater what you do to the engine, it does
 NOT go away until you use most of the tank.

  >>
The other guy, and I are having (at least what sound like) the same problem.
I'm betting it's not gas since I had run a bit before messing with stuff, and
then "all of the sudden....".  It's not that my engine seems to be running
like crap altogether, just at idle (like the "other guy's" is).  Otherwise
things "seem normal"....

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 23:14:38 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Split-Fire thoughts was Re: wierd plugs ......

In a message dated 98-07-20 22:17:07 EDT, you write:

<< the plugs dont or rather cant do what the claim as electricity takes the
path of least resistance the point of the side electrode closest to the center
conductor >>

I gotta agree with that.

However....
There are other considerations.
The splitfire anode (?) [Karl allus comfuses anode with cathode, but believes
tis is right as NOT galvanic cell] is "Y" shaped.

This is intended to provide one anode with two branches equidistant from the
cathode (plug main electrode).
In reality, one branch wil be closer than the other.

*When the plugs are NEW*.

If the "Y" is slanted (bent) to one side or the other,  yes the nearest two
pionts will be the loci of discharge.

BUT

Realize (I am certain that I mentioned this in unrelated posts) that
electrical current adds/removes metal to/from the conductors. If you have ever
arc-ed your tool between negative and positive potential in your car (your
tool made from (O-6 or similar) Tool-steel that is!) you will probably have
noticed slight pitting on your tool and the parts it came in contact with.

Back to spark plugs, on which this is called *wear*.

Theoretically, if the Y is not very much off-center-as the closer branch of
the anode wears, the distance between that branch and the cathode approaches
the distance between the other branch and the cathode.

Until the nearest point of both branches of the "Y" anode are equal, the
branch that does "fire" is the "point of least resistance" or "potential".
In other words, less potential resistance is overcome by the spark jumping the
shorter distance.

When the branches of the Y anode are equidistant at their closest points to
the cathode we have another situation.

Again potential is the key. We must realize that the individual electron is,
well, damn tiny, and responds to local shifts in potential.

If any of you remember the actual commercial for these. The splitfire plug did
in fact alternate betweeen firing from both, and just one (or the other)
branch of the Y anode.

So, we get down to the point where both branches of the "Y" anode (AND yes,
for accell, both tips of the "U" anode) are equidistant from the cathode.

It *is* possible for two electrons (and their nearest neighbor electrons, of
course), each on tips of different branches of the "Y" anode, to see the SAME
potential resistance in distance to the cathode.

And when this happens, both *should* fire.

However, as a SplitFire user, I can say that the "Y" is frequently uncentered.
Sometimes very badly so.
It is very easy to tell while gapping the plugs.
So I will go out on a limb and agree with Kerry K

It could happen, but not likely.

OTOH, if Accell's Quality Control is good enough, a bulky "U" electrode is
more massive and _should_ be tougher to bend away from the optimal
position......

Geez I have convinced myself!

OK Soylent Ocean mist will get a valve seal job sometime soon.

After that, I will clean and regap the splitfires, drive for a while, and then
swap in the Accell plugs.
Following that Karl will try to present an objective report....

Unless of course, current Accell plug users care to coment!

Thanks for listening to yet another hallucination....

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 23:16:32 EDT
From: <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: PLEASE HELP ME, PLEASE - A Carb Problem? (Me too...)

In a message dated 98-07-20 15:31:43 EDT, you write:

<<      My symptoms are: terrible idle at 800-1200RPM, no matter what. WOT
take
 off, definate hesitation, IE no gas into the engine when there should be.
Also
 no problems once the car is moving and I mash the pedal, but I attribute that
 to the RPM's being above idle speed.
      I also get what I consider bad mileage, 13 mpg w/403, THM400, 2.56
gears,
 '86 Salon, in the city, 18 freeway. Thats being gentle on the throttle. That
 13 is pretty consistent unless I do absolutely no stop and go. After learning
 that those plugs can leak, I believe that is what is causing my bad idle,
 since no adjustment has changed the bad idle. Whats anybody else think about
 the MPG? High low or average? The 403 is bone stock with the Quadrajet. And
 how about those plugs leaking? Definite symptom or wishful thinking?  Dorian

  >>

I'm planning on taking the carb apart, and re-epoxying those plugs to see if
that helps.  Aside from that, I'm not sure what else to do with it (yet).
It's rather strange the way it is acting....  As far as my set-up...  a '77
350 motor, .060 in. overbore, stock compression (with #8 heads), Performer
manifold, aftermarket cam (don't have the specs handy...), and a Rochester
carb also a TH-350C with 2.29 gears....

I'm figuring I'm getting some terrible gas milage with it now, but was getting
like 12, or so prior to this happening....

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 23:19:28 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?

In a message dated 98-07-20 19:03:09 EDT, you write:

<< I think that the carb problems are bad gas! >>


     You know, this could be one of those easy fixes, like a fuse, that I
didn't think of. I know there hasn't been accumulation of water in the tank,
as I just changed the tank. However, I have been using that 10% ethanol or
methanol or whatever it is, exclusively, and had never thought to try another
brand that doesn't have it. Thanks for the wake up call.   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 20:15:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: John M <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Stereo mounting

- ---Toby Blom <floridarealtor@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>
> Hi.
> I'm trying to come up with a way to mount a decent stereo in my 66
> without removing the original radio, and withouth damaging any
interior
> part. one idea I came up with was to buy one of these new units with a
> detachable faceplate, and keep the faceplate up front and trow the
> stereo in the trunk (Re-wire the faceplate plug, with extension to the
> stereo)
> Anybody got some real clever solutions?
>
> Toby
>

Toby,
     They make units already that essentially does what you
described.Most are a CD changer(mounted in trunk),"faceplate" is
routed under carpet to dash or other location.
                 John

==
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73 http://www.442.com/mcjunkin.html
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof-307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!
 mailto:super442@yahoo.com


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 23:20:35 -0400
From: Toby Blom <floridarealtor@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Stereo mounting

John M. wrote:

>      They make units already that essentially does what you
> described.Most are a CD changer(mounted in trunk),"faceplate" is
> routed under carpet to dash or other location.


John, those units does only work with a stereo (radio/amp/speakers) in
place, not as individual units.... (I've already checked out everyone
manufacturer available)
Toby

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 23:29:58 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Stereo mounting

<HTML>
Toby:

<P>Try <A HREF="http://www.custom-autosound.com">Custom Auto Sound</A>
. They have or will have what you are looking for.

<P>Mark Hahn
<BR>75D88C</HTML>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 21:38:43 -0600
From: "Kevin Meredith" <bkmeredith@telusplanet.net>
Subject: RE: 1969 Olds Covert in Seattle

Stick with Eudora 3 Pro or convert all to Outlook 98 as I too got fed up
with Eudora 4 :-)

Kevin Meredith
70 Vista Cruiser
mailto:bkmeredith@telusplanet.net
http://www.telusplanet.net/public/mereditk/bkolds.htm

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Brian Ammons
> Sent: Monday, July 20, 1998 12:22 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 1969 Olds Covert in Seattle
>
>
>
> So, did anybody else call on the add listed at Trader Online for the $6k
> car?  Anybody got any thoughts on the deal?
>
> And anybody got any ideas on how I can get Eudora 4.0 to stop screwing up
> the tab stops on my signature (at the bottom of this message)?  I've tried
> everything I can think of.
> -------------------------------------------------------------
>  Brian Ammons				Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 
3585737
>  Solutions Provider		b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
>  Computer Approach		http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
>  Work: 713-627-8588
>
> Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
>  MIS Major - UT Austin				(713)
> 776-2110 (Houston)
>  5606 Grape				Pager:	(512) 483-8056
>  Houston, TX 77096-1114			(713) 318-5938
> -------------------------------------------------------------
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 22:24:23 -0500
From: Albert Meyer <Olds@AustinTX.net>
Subject: Re: TX Heatwave Custom Truck and Car Show

I may be able to make it Friday - I work S/S

At 12:11 PM 7/20/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Texas Heatwave Custom Truck and Car Show.
>One of the country's largest car shows at Travis County Expo Center in
>Austin, Texas. 512/448-5849. Fri-Sun July 24-26.

'68 98 Convertible 455 - Still looking for a parts car
Austin, Texas mailto:Olds@AustinTX.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 23:43:00 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: wierd plugs ( was Re: Rapidfires)

I've used Splitfires and Bosch Platinums. The Platinums had over 100K on
them and still looked new. The Splitfires never made a $5.00 difference.
This test was performed  when I worked as a courier and drove 3
different pickup trucks a total of 1,000,000 miles in an 8 year period.
I installed the platinums in my Delta shortly after taking possession of
her last month. I don't expect to ever have to change the plugs again.
(Was that a testimonial?)

Mark Hahn
75D88C

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 23:53:14, -0500
From: GQPR12E@prodigy.com ( CLAYTON PIERCE)
Subject: re: Rapidfires

As I had heard it the reason for the smaller gap is because part of
the Rapidfire's performance increase is from a hotter stronger spark..
. caused by less resistance... caused by a smaller plug gap... they
are designed around that smaller plug gap so they don't perform as
well with the factory AC (non-rapidfire) plug gapping.  Don't have
proof or anything... this is just what's been explained to me.  My
experiences with them have always been good.  Plugs I'm currently
running are:

Cutlass (motor blown so doesn't matter much)   Regular AC
Bonneville   Regular AC
Rover    Bosch Platinum

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
GQPR12E@Prodigy.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 23:53:58 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?

Very sorry to make multiple postings on this, but...

<<  Otherwise things "seem normal".... >>

That is exactly why bad gas catches most people by suprise.

Gasoline quality is taken for granted!

As such we look for mechanical failures first!

Yea, this be only mine own offhand opinion, but what hast thou done which has
improved thine idle?

(sorry, decided not to correct "yea" and ran from there!)

Seriously, how soon before the problem started did you tank up?

<< I had run a bit before messing with stuff, and then "all of the sudden...."
>>

First, I want everyone to know that I have met C.R. and he is a great guy.
But, I believe he ran the good gas out of his system.

Karl does not honestly know what causes bad gas.
If it were water, it should sit at the bottom of the tank, and not cause
continuous (sp) problems like bad gas does. Water should only be slightly
soluble in gasoline, if that much.

Perhaps the contaminant is lighter than gasoline and soluble in it. So does
not reach fuel line until good gas is exhausted.

I will tell you one characteristic of bad gas....your exhaust will smell
different.

Karl had people in surrounding cars roll up windows at the stoplights while
Karl was standing on the brake to give gas to keep Soylent from dying. On HOT
August days.

It is a rare occation that Karl returns to the gas station that he knows sold
him bad gas. And Karl now buys premium exclusively. Karl hopes it is harder to
screw up premium.

Again, this is only my reinforced hallucination.

Karl Aune
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 23:56:24 EDT
From: <MFATZII@aol.com>
Subject: Olds Nats Pics and probs w/ my 56

Went to the site with all the pics "Texas 442"   I believe.....Give credit
where it's due!! Every one of the cars in the national's looked super ! I'm
sure that pictures don't do the cars justice enough though.

Quick question....am I wrong in wondering why there weren't any 50's olds' or
older there?   I thought it was "oldsmobile" nationals  not 1968 through 1980
cutlass' or whatever.  Please fill me in on some of the
guidelines......without stomping all over my feelbads for asking dumb
questions.

On another note,  my 56 has been acting up ever since I got it..charging
system wise.   Car died with a new battery in it the other day at an idle and
my voltmeter read 3.5 volts....I thought a near dead battery would still read
11.5 volts or so.  oh well there were two batteries (used ) before the new one
that would also seem to lose their charge.  burned up 2 solenoids.  smoked the
ignition switch.....any way, new strategy.  took the starter and generator in
to be rebuilt, and am replacing the voltage regulater.....we'll see what
happens.

Ryan (M Fatz II@aol.com)
Lincoln,   Nebraska  (Home of the Cornhuskers, too bad they suck !)

56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project Rocket)
<A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click here</A>
85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
89 Chevy Beretta CL

   888                888
  8      8           8       8
8          8       8           8
  8      8           8       8
    8  8               8   8           LIVES
  8      8           8       8
8          8       8           8
  8     8            8       8
    888                888

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 00:01:54 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?

In a message dated 98-07-20 23:22:02 EDT, you write:

<< 10% ethanol or methanol or whatever it is, >>

" 'Whatever I say.' What a wonderful philosophy you have,"

Whatever it is. Exactly why I shy away from it when possible.

K

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 22:03:01 -0500
From: "Paul D. Pate" <rocket455@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Spark trivia, was splitfires, wierd stuff, etc...

If I am remembering correctly, the center part of the spark plug is
negative because the arc travels from it to the part of the plug that
contacts the head.  It is considered negative because it gives up
electrons to the positive electrode.

Paul Pate

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 00:12:39 -0400
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Leaky Carb Plugs

Does this problem also apply to the 2GC carb?  Mine runs kinda rich (black
inside tailpipe) and floods out while sitting for a while....

If there is some gain potential in "epoxying the plugs", please fill me in
on where these things are and how to safely do it.  TIA
Bob, Covington, VA
robertan@cfw.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 00:15:52 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?

In a message dated 98-07-21 00:05:08 EDT, you write:

<< << 10% ethanol or methanol or whatever it is, >>

 " 'Whatever I say.' What a wonderful philosophy you have,"

 Whatever it is. Exactly why I shy away from it when possible. >>


   C'mon Karl, give me a break...only one staion uses it, and only one kind of
alcohol is added to the gas to make it oxygenated. Anybody that would know it
could correct me..I was just trying to be a little clearer that it probably
wasn't water, but some other additive in the gas, which is commonly called
"oxygenated gas"  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 00:20:19 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Spark trivia, was splitfires, wierd stuff, etc...

In a message dated 98-07-20 22:29:09 EDT, you write:

<< On a plug, which part is the negative electrode, and ~why~???  If no one
gets,  I'll answer tomorrow.  (remind me, if I forget! ;) >>

Unfortunately, there are two schools of thoughts on the behavior of electrons.

Physicists, and Chemists.

Physicysts believe that "holes" (essentially spots of low potential that
electrons may fill) flow from pos to neg.

Chemists believe that electrons flow from regions of high negative potential
to low negative (or more positive) potential.

Essentially these two describe the same situation. They just confuse poeple
much more than if ther were one doctrine.
But then, that is what physicists are for.

The negative electrode is the outside plug terminal. Because it is connected
to the block and thereby to the battery (high negative potential) and arcs to
the center plug electrode, which is closer to the potential of the coil and
positive batt cable. The coil actually generates a higher positive potential,
drawing spark more vigorously across the plug electrodes.

But as Someone must be getting more confused, this is a good time to shut up
until someone asks a specific question.

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 00:53:03 -0400
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Re: Spark trivia, was splitfires, wierd stuff, etc...

True, that there are many frames of reference when discussing electrical
"current".  Conventional current, like in the "I" part of Ohm's law, is
defined as flowing from positive to negative, and at the speed of light,
incidentally.  It's kind of an imaginary thing.  Electron flow, like in the
movement of atomic particles, goes the opposite way, and at a significantly
slower speed.  It is this movement, and the friction developed, that causes
heating of conductors.

Great topic for 1 AM conversation?  Good nite.
- -----Original Message-----
From: KarlAune@aol.com <KarlAune@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, July 21, 1998 12:24 AM
Subject: Re: Spark trivia, was splitfires, wierd stuff, etc...


>In a message dated 98-07-20 22:29:09 EDT, you write:
>
><< On a plug, which part is the negative electrode, and ~why~???  If no one
>gets,  I'll answer tomorrow.  (remind me, if I forget! ;) >>
>
>Unfortunately, there are two schools of thoughts on the behavior of
electrons.
>
>Physicists, and Chemists.
>
>Physicysts believe that "holes" (essentially spots of low potential that
>electrons may fill) flow from pos to neg.
>
>Chemists believe that electrons flow from regions of high negative
potential
>to low negative (or more positive) potential.
>
>Essentially these two describe the same situation. They just confuse poeple
>much more than if ther were one doctrine.
>But then, that is what physicists are for.
>
>The negative electrode is the outside plug terminal. Because it is
connected
>to the block and thereby to the battery (high negative potential) and arcs
to
>the center plug electrode, which is closer to the potential of the coil and
>positive batt cable. The coil actually generates a higher positive
potential,
>drawing spark more vigorously across the plug electrodes.
>
>But as Someone must be getting more confused, this is a good time to shut
up
>until someone asks a specific question.
>
>KA
>&SOM
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jul 1998 22:50:24 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Stereo mounting

... keep the faceplate up front and trow the
> stereo in the trunk (Re-wire the faceplate plug, with extension to the
> stereo)
> Anybody got some real clever solutions?

Well, for one, umm, that ~ain't~ gonna work...  Seem to have skipped one small
detail...  The tape, or CD has to go in the deck...  With just the faceplate up
front, umm, well, it wouldn't work very well ;)  FM Modulated changers are a
really slick idea.  The work best on a stereo tuner, but not required.  They
just hook up through the antenna lead.  I've done decks in the glove box, also
done them on the center hump of the floor, using an underdash housing mounted
upside down.   It worked, but I didn't like that one.

Any questions, feel free...
- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 02:20:37 EDT
From: <LooseCanno@aol.com>
Subject: Re: More Olds on TV/in film

Boy, it's really too bad how these poor car owners are being exploited..

I wonder if they worried about the lucrative calendar market when they "risked
it all" and got their cars "cast" in a commercial.  They must feel really
dumb, seeing their car during the super bowl, or on the big screen.

Point is, i remember the cars in every one of those shots, and I think it
would be great to see my car there.  Too bad people who couldn't see past
their dashboard had to sound off about a topic they knew nothing about.

i will watch "That 70's Show", just to see the olds.

Erik
'69 Cutlass 'S' convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 00:24:16 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Anyone Race in Denver last week???

Our salesman was there on Vacation, and brought back video of time trials down
there.  Of course, the ~putz~ only recorded the "big dogs".  Funny's, rails, 
and
a couple bikes...  Didn't get any of the "normal" people's rides.  Dammit.
Anyway, told of some Olds that smoked a cramaro down there....  The camaro lost
an engine too...  I'd have loved to see that!  ;)  Anyway, just curious if
anyone here was involved.

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 03:09:58 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Stereo mounting

The external trunk mounted cd changer is not a real option here.  The way it
works is it sends out an FM signal that the radio is supposed to pick up.
This works okay if you have a digital radio, but I don't think it would be
such a good idea for a 30 year old knob radio.  Now, it may work,  mind you,
if you have an FM, but the sound quality will be poor.  If you keep the
original speakers in your car though, the lack of a quality signal might not
be noticeable.

In my 70 98, I mounted a new radio under the dash.  All the damage that I
did to the car by doing this was two small holes.  If you take the radio
out, the holes are on the underside of the dash, where no one would look.
You can go to a custom stereo shop and for about $20 you can buy a carpeted
wood box that the radio fits in so that you dont have to see its ugly gray
metal.  I secured the radio to the box with a bolt on each side.  The bolt
also holds on an "L" bracket.  The other side of the bracket is attached to
the underside of the dash.  I then pulled used the antenna wire from the
original radio and I ran new power leads to the fuse box.  All of the wiring
is hidden and I left the original speakers in place so I could use the am if
I really wanted to just by switching the antenna (takes seconds).  There is
a downside to this though:  only two screws hold the radio on, so your radio
is only two screws away from being someone else's.  Get a detachable face.

I then removed the carpet from the kick panels in front of the doors and
removed the metal plates.  I bought Infinity 6.5" speakers (that is what I
thought sounded the best, you can use almost any size speaker) and I cut
holes in the kick panels with this thing that hooks up to a drill press that
looks like a compass.  There are waterproof baffles behind the speakers.
Warning:  this is a pain in the ass; it took all day, and because the
speakers are mounted behind carpet, you don't hear any of the high's.  I had
to mount a pair of component tweeters up front as well.  For the rear, I cut
 a pair of 6x9 holes in the package shelf.  If you dont want to cut holes in
your car, you can buy surface mount speakers and velcro them to your package
shelf.  I then stuck a cd changer under the seat.  I ran the wire for the
changer up into the dash and then I had it go down into the carpet and back.
The carpet in my car ends under the seat so the wires come out there and
plug into the changer (there is a break in the carpet under the front seat,
there is a seperate carpet that goes from the front seat back, yes this is
original).  I added amps and a crossover to the trunk by running the wires
in the same manner, but they go under the rear carpet section, under the
back seat, and into the trunk.  Infinity subwoofers grace my trunk.

This may be a more complex system than you are looking for, but if you want
to know how to do something like this, I can share my knowledge and
experience.  I have installed systems into several old cars.  I have access
to a 66 2 door 98 and a 66 98 top dropper.  If you have one of the big cars,
I would be happy to go look at one of these two and I will let you know what
I think can be done.


- -----Original Message-----
From: Toby Blom <floridarealtor@worldnet.att.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, July 20, 1998 11:13 PM
Subject: Stereo mounting


>Hi.
>I'm trying to come up with a way to mount a decent stereo in my 66
>without removing the original radio, and withouth damaging any interior
>part. one idea I came up with was to buy one of these new units with a
>detachable faceplate, and keep the faceplate up front and trow the
>stereo in the trunk (Re-wire the faceplate plug, with extension to the
>stereo)
>Anybody got some real clever solutions?
>
>Toby

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 09:40:45 +0200
From: Martin Larsen <martin@auditdata.dk>
Subject: 73 Delta 88

Can it really be true that no one knows if the 73 Delta 88 body style is
identical to the one from another year ?
And no one knows where to find such a model ?

Please help me out - I am quite desperate here...

- - Martin

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 03:54:05 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: 73 Delta 88

Not identical however the '74 and '75 models are very similar. My best
guess would be that some parts are interchangeble.
Just what parts are you looking for?

Mark Hahn
75D88C

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 01:30:22 -0700
From: burling1@juno.com
Subject: Re: Rapidfires

They lasted as long as your engine's state of tune allowed them to.
On Mon, 20 Jul 1998 21:11:15 -0400 "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
writes:
>I had the exact same symptoms in my 84 307.  The idle was just
>horrible.  It
>was so bad, the car would randomly stall at stoplights.  I had to keep
>my
>foot on the gas just a touch to keep RPM's up.  WOT performance gains
>were
>negligible.
>
>Those plugs didn't last long.  :-)
>
>Jason Adcock
>mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
>http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock/
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
>To: INTERNET:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: Monday, July 20, 1998 7:27 PM
>Subject: Rapidfires
>
>
>Message text written by Joe C.
>> posed this question last week but no one responded.  I just
>installed new
>rapid-fire plugs in my 307.  The plugs were pregapped at .045 but the
>manual
>says to use .060.  Does this make a difference?<
>
>Do not regap them.  I installed these in my 1987 442 and was
>dissapointed
>with the results. It acutally idles worse.
>
>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 01:33:49 -0700
From: burling1@juno.com
Subject: Re: Rapidfires)

dollar for dollar Bosch Platinum's are the best. You get performance and
longevity.
On Mon, 20 Jul 1998 18:40:22 +0000 Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
writes:
>At 09:31 PM 7/20/98 -0400, you wrote:
>>try splitfires!!!!
>>
>do any of these rapidfire or splitfire plugs actually do the things
>they claim (better milage, more power etc,)?
>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 01:47:00 -0700
From: burling1@juno.com
Subject: Re: Rapidfires)

What your saying is there can only be one spark at a time. Which is why I
don't buy Splitfires "Firestorm" propaganda. But it seems to me that if
you need or would prefer a sharp edge for the spark to leap across and
the Rapidfire has about a dozen they might be of some benefit.

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 01:48:47 -0700
From: burling1@juno.com
Subject: Re: Rapidfires)

For $6.00 a plug they should have fire extinguishers on them.
On Mon, 20 Jul 1998 21:49:28 EDT <W31Sleeper@aol.com> writes:
>Yes they do.  The splitfires that is.  Splitfires last longer, saves
>gas, more
>power.  Mines lasted 5 years until my engine caught on fire.  Did an
>excellent
>job.  Try them you won't be disappointed or your money back (within 30
>days).
>
>The sleeper
>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 01:39:16 -0700
From: burling1@juno.com
Subject: Re: Rapidfires)

You are right about the sharp edges and the fine center electrode. But
you don't want your ground electrode altered because it could glow red
hot and cause" bad things man"

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 01:15:35 -0700
From: burling1@juno.com
Subject: Re: PLEASE HELP ME, PLEASE - A Carb Problem? (Me too...)

You need a can of NAPA
"Blubber Remover"

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 01:13:57 -0700
From: burling1@juno.com
Subject: Re: Spark plugs

AC Delco put "do not regap" on the box for a reason.

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 01:11:03 -0700
From: burling1@juno.com
Subject: Re: PLEASE HELP ME, PLEASE

you need some permatex on your exaust manifold.

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 01:50:51 -0700
From: burling1@juno.com
Subject: Re: Fired the 455 (was: Break-in procedure)

Next time you put Permatex on your exaust manifolds, don't tell anyone.

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 01:55:19 -0700
From: burling1@juno.com
Subject: Re: Spark trivia, was splitfires, wierd stuff, etc...

You asked which part of the plug is negative. I'd say the part that
screws into the block is.

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 02:54:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: John M <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: NO Flame-Pease don't take this wrong(was See Pictures from the
Nationals On-line)

- ---Texas442 <texas442@flash.net> wrote:
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> We had a wonderful time at the Nationals in Springfield.  The Illinois
> chapter did a super job.  I posted few pictures up at the "Texas442"
> website.  Hope to see every one of you in Dallas next summer for the
> 1999 Nationals.  Here is the "Texas442" website address:
>
> http://www.flash.net/~texas442/
> Ali


Ali,
     Not to be ungrateful by ANY means,I enjoyed the pics,but did you
get any of the late stuff?
                              John
==
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73 http://www.442.com/mcjunkin.html
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof-307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!
 mailto:super442@yahoo.com


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 04:24:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Stereo mounting

  I put a new stereo in under my dash.  There's an enclosure that you
can buy that screws under.  I used 2 existing holes(just used longer
screws) and drilled 2 new ones.  If you ever want to remove it, the
holes are not noticeable unless you're really looking for them.

Hope this helps,
          Stefan
          sgadecki@yahoo.com
          1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe




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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 04:27:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: John M <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Anybody need G-quarters?

Hi,
      Any of you G-body guys need rear quarter panels?The parts car is
going away next week,has good quarterpanels(no rust,no dents)but I
don't have a use for them(or the space to store them)right now.If
anyone wants them,make it worth my time to cut them out,and pay
shipping,and that's all I'm asking.
                  Thanks,John




==
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73 http://www.442.com/mcjunkin.html
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof-307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!
 mailto:super442@yahoo.com


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 07:39:10 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: wierd plugs ( was Re: Rapidfires)

I read in the local newspaper last week that a class action suit had been
brought against the manufacturer of splitfire spark plugs.  The major
contention was one of misrepresentation and fraud.  Draw your own
conclusion.  Peter

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 07:56:33 -0400
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: AC Delco Plugs

Message text written by Roger Hitson
>Doesn't Champion make all AC Delco plugs now?
<

No, they are made by AC Delco (Delphi group) in Flint Michigan.

Piece of trivia - do you know whay AC stands for in AC Delco and why????

Answer later


Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E & 4L60-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'96 DCM Impala SS   '87 Olds Cutlass 442  '95 Grand Prix

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 08:01:45 -0400
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: AC meaning

Well, I guuess somebody already mentioned AC stands for Albert Champion.
Albert Champion started a spark plug company many years ago.  When GM was
buying up companies all ove, it purchase the Champion Spark Plug company
from Albert Champion.  They kept the name but Albert sued.  He won the suit
and was able to use the Champion name to start a new spark plug company,
the one you know today as Champion  Spark Plug.  The company GM bought had
to be renamed, so they called it AC Spark Plug after (or in spite of)
Albert Champion.

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E & 4L60-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'96 DCM Impala SS   '87 Olds Cutlass 442  '95 Grand Prix

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 08:22:07 -0400
From: Wm & Candida Baraby <baraby@northweb.com>
Subject: PLEASE TAKE ME OFF THE LIST

PLEASE TELL ME HOW TO GET OFF THE LIST.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 07:44:42 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: More Olds on TV

I saw the new show on USA Network, Sins of the City the other night.  The good
guy was driving a 70 A body ragtop while doing undercover police work.  At
first I thought the car was a W-30 due to a stripe. later I saw the Supreme
grills and hood, at that point I could see the side of the car better (damn
night shots) and saw it had a custom paint job.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 08:47:33 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: MY DELTA 88 is has to GO

what year is it?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 08:51:19 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: what did I do to my carb?

Used carb and Choke spray cleaner on my carb. Definitely got some inside the
ports. Now, when I accelerate, I hear a whoosh and the car has no power. What
have I done?
Bruce
75 Delta 88 Conv. 350

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 09:19:34 EDT
From: <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Stop shouting and try this was: *please*/ Carb Problem?

In a message dated 98-07-20 23:55:53 EDT, you write:

<<
 Very sorry to make multiple postings on this, but...
 <<  Otherwise things "seem normal".... >>

 That is exactly why bad gas catches most people by suprise.
 Gasoline quality is taken for granted!>>

By the statement of "seem normal" I'm saying that it runs fine during this
phase (cruising at 60 MPH).  Unless there's something amiss that I am unaware
of, but in reality, I highly doubt it since it acts no differently than prior
to my carb fiddling...

<< Yea, this be only mine own offhand opinion, but what hast thou done which
has
 improved thine idle?>>

Oh Karl, you ought to know better than to ask me that one... :-)  , ok, taken
the carb apart twice (after the first time, the problem started, and did it a
second time to make sure things were "right"), checked the plugs, made sure
gap was OK, checked electrical connections, played with timing slightly,
messed with the mixture screws (using a vac. guage, when using this, I could
get the RPM to change using the screws, but could not get the vac. amount to
change...  it always stayed at 15-16, and before this (when I put the motor
in, etc...) I was getting about 18-20 on the guage.  Hmmm... anything else I
messed with..., Not off-hand that I can remember...

<< Seriously, how soon before the problem started did you tank up?

 ......I had run a bit before messing with stuff, and then "all of the
sudden...."....
 >>

It was 40, or so miles after I filled upo that things started acting funny,
and most of those miles were running back, and forth to work (so in other
words, I consumed a decent amount of gas..., with the mileage I'm getting, it
would be approx. 1/8 to 1/4 a tank of gas basically....

<< First, I want everyone to know that I have met C.R. and he is a great guy.
 But, I believe he ran the good gas out of his system.>>

Now that's not a very "glowing" compliment... :-)... Seriously Karl, I'd bet
it's the carb, not the gas....  Let me explain something else....  This
morning on the way to work, it starts acting better... Not that it is running
as good as before, but noticably different.  Now before you tell me it's the
gas, I'll tell you I haven't changed/added, etc. to the tank since before.
Also, the gas station I use (in town) is a Mobil, and I have bought gas from
them forever (As long as I've been driving...), and I have never had problems
with gas from them (except the lack of, usually my fault though...).

 <<I will tell you one characteristic of bad gas....your exhaust will smell
 different.>>

And it doesn't smell any different...

Here's the problem... the both of us (Dorian, and myself) have the same
symtoms...  we have bad idle (his worse than mine by the sounds of it), and it
runs bad between idle, and 2000-2500 RPM (at cruise speed it is fine though).
My carb started acting up after I put in new gaskets, his is a junkyard
motor/carb, etc... that may be all junked up, or have leaking well plugs.  Our
tales are pretty much the same (we talked last night, and found all the things
we >both< tried to do pretty much the same things...).  I have run a few
things through my head while this has been going on....  First, I thought a
burnt valve/low compression was making the noise (I said mine had run lean for
a minute, or so) but I doubt I would have done that in the time it was running
lean, plus it would always run like crap (through all RPM, right...).  Then I
thought head gasket, but for the same reasoning, dropped it too...  Figure it
is the carb....

Oh well, all for now...
Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 09:33:18 +0000
From: Mike Still <mstill@abraxis.com>
Subject: Searching for e-mail address

Hi,

I am searching for an e-mail adress of a friend of mine who belongs to the
Olds Club in Lansing, Mi.  Is there any way you could give it to me if he
is on your list of subscribers.  His name is Duane Allen.

Thanks,

Mike Still
mstill@abraxis.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 08:54:15 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@leadbelt.com
Subject: Re: wierd plugs ( was Re: Rapidfires)

kk wrote:

>>the plugs dont or rather cant do what the claim <snipped>
>>now go ahead everybody that swears that they work ignore the laws of 
>>physics
>>mechanics electricity and common sense and flame me I dont care...
>>
I know less about the laws of physics than most of you. In my experience,
however, good quality plugs are not "out-performed" by those that make such
miraculous claims. If it sounds too good to be true....

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 09:45:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Re: OPC Meet in Fairfield, OH

I will definitely be there!

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 09:46:25 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 73 Delta 88

Can it really be true that no one knows if the 73 Delta 88 body style is
identical to the one from another year ?
And no one knows where to find such a model ?
Please help me out - I am quite desperate here...
- - Martin
______________

Martin,

What do you mean by "identical"?  The GM B-body cars (Olds 88, Chevy
Caprice/Impala, Pontiac Bonny, and Buick LeSabre) were all based on the
same body shell from 71-76.  Many parts interchange (primarily mechanical
parts), but others are either year-specific (grilles and bumpers, for
example) or span a subset of years.  Among the differences, keep in mind
that 73 was the first year for the 5 mph front bumpers (rears did not have
this requirement until 74).  These parts will therefore likely be unique to
the 73.

Unfortunately, I'm not that familiar with the B-body cars, so others will
have to provide more info on the specific interchange of things like
fenders, hoods, etc.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 09:04:51 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: PLEASE HELP ME, PLEASE - A Carb Problem? (Me too...)

As for mileage, my 77 350, 2.14 gears has been getting consistent
17-17.5 mpg city/highway up to 21.5.  No highway trips yet to check.
The engine is stone stock with the computer working.  I have duals on it
(GN Exhaust from Hooker), but the mileage increased only 1-1.5 mpg,
mainly more consistent.  I am looking for more data now, I just opened
up another place to add a second snorkel on my aircleaner.  I have a
duct running to the hole now, runs better already!  I will add the
snorkel this weekend.

FWIW, my 76 Delta got EPA rated at 13/17 for 350 and 12/18 for 455,
THM400, 2.73 gears (with my 350) or 2.41 with 455 (at least most).  I
got 12 mpg driving for Domino's.  I got 19 average highway, and best of
23 highway.  All hauling a 4860 lb beast around (yes, on a scale!).  And
that was stone stock as Olds delivered it.  No mods at all.  (didn't
start that yet....)

When you tweak the idle mix screws, do they respond?  when you loosen
them they will richen it up.  If they are all the way in it should die,
if not, the throttle is probably too far open, and on the main metering
circuit, not the idle circuit.  Start baseline with 3 turns out.  This
is the ballpark a good engine will be close to.  If you need to turn
them way out, you have a vacuum leak somewhere.  If you have to turn
them in all the way, you have a fuel leak somewhere.  Or fuel is
introduced from another source.

Look for a bad vacuum leak or EGR stuck.  If you suspect EGR, tap
lightly with a hammer, and manually open and close valve.  This may get
some junk loose.  Remove is best.  Examine and reinstall.

Look for PCV stuck open, or wrong PCV.  81 up engines get a different
PCV than 80 and older.  Do not mix, they will kill performance.  Worth
about 20 hp on mine!  I used my 85 307 valve, and it ran like doo doo,
and I swapped a correct one in and it ran MUCH better!

Look for bad brake booster for leak, carb not mounted properly, bad
intake gasket, secondaries stuck open, bad vacuum breaks/choke pull
offs, bad pcv hose, leak at MAP sensor, leak at vapor canister or the
VDV before it.  Leak at vacuum reservoirs (2 on my 85), leak at cruise
control, leak at anti diesel solenoid, or just a plain flat cam!

Check vacuum hose routing.  For testing, you can plug nearly everything.
Leave vacuum breaks connected.  Plug all, including PCV.  (Don't drive
it like that, it is bad, will polute oil, and you will have lots of
blowby)  Work from there.

Is float level ok?  Is float ok?  Check it, I had a problem like this
with my 76, float decided not to.  Went to about 2 mpg to get it home
belching black all the way.  Kept it near WOT much of the way to "use"
the fuel.  Rebuilt carb and replaced float, all was good after that.


Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 10:11:47 -0400
From: "Healy Chris" <healy_chris@bah.com>
Subject: '72 442 Conv w/455

Vacuum Control Switch

I need one (or do I?).

This is the switch that sits on top of intake manifold for 71-72 models,
it has three vacuum hose attachments, and an electronic two prong switch
.  Apparently it controls (thermo-electrically?!) the timing at high
output.  Not surpsisingly, the part is discontinued.

First do I really need it, can it be bypassed without loosing power?  If
its a must, how can I track one down, can they be "re-built"?

Thanks for your help.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 10:14:04 -0400
From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: Re: OPC Meet in Fairfield, OH

The Viking wrote:
>
> I will definitely be there!
>
> Al Varhus
> Columbus, Ohio
> http://www.infinet.com/~avar
> http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
> Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
>   Mid Ohio Chapter #136
>   Gem City Rockets
>

	 I'll be there. For those of you that have not attended because the
previous Hotel was a dump, it's finally back at the Holiday Inn. The
setting is EXCELLENT for show/swap. Nice restaurants and shopping, all
walking distance.
       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
          Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 W30 stick ~ Red (of course)

                              <mailto:drdecal442@aol.com>
                              <mailto:mcornea@ford.com>

            Visit <http://members.aol.com/drdecal442/mcr.html>

              See us at the OPC Meet 7/31-8/1 in Fairborn OH

            OCA# 4903
       	    OPC# 14
       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 09:17:45 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Spark plugs

No, Champion is made in Japan.  Cheap plug now.  Used to be good in the
60's.

AC is

A= ????????
C= Champion

The company split years ago.  I cannot remember who the "A" name is.
Maybe some old (Olds?) techs would be able to help.  I was told this by
a former Pontiac service manager.  He has been retired many years.

IMHO-Champion plugs are junk.  I have used 2 sets.  And both sets have
had 1 plug fail within 2000 miles.  1 did it within 100 miles, and that
was about 11 pm, out in Georgia as I just left for a trip to Chicago.  I
was not a happy camper!  Plug went open, no electricity would go
through.  That was my Pontiac 455.  10.25:1 compression.

I will use only AC Delco or Autolight.  (NOT MOTORCRAP, they are not the
same)  They are the only 2 plugs that survive in turbocharged
applications.  I use them in my cars only.  Either is fine, they both
perform well.  Never had a failure yet.  Bosch Platinum?  Burned out 2
of the fine platinum wires on DIS (3.1L V6 and 3800) ignitions.
Actually melted the three back plugs on the 3800!  Won't use.  (They
suck for circle track racing!)  Rapidfires?  Too expensive, do ok, but
not worth the $$.  Splitfire, same deal.  Not worth what little you
gain, if any gains.  Compare to new AC plugs, then to Rapid-fire and
Splitfire, run then on a Dyno or down the 1/4mi.  Then determine if they
make any more power or not.  I really doubt it when you are under that
pressure.  Mostly psychological.

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac






------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 09:21:30 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: Carb Problem?

Oh, what year?  And is the ignition not the problem?

Check cap/rotor for damage, wear etc.  Wires too.  If the plugs are so
far gone the higher rpm and richer mixtures will allow it to run fair
when revved, but not at idle.

I thought mine was good once, and it was very sad.  I used my Dremel to
clean the plugs and cap/rotor.  Made a nice improvement in power!  Idles
sweet for a 199K mile car!

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1380
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