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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1310


oldsmobile-digest        Sunday, June 14 1998        Volume 01 : Number 1310



Re: Olds performance powerhouse motors
Re: parts classifieds ....[non-Olds]
Re: How to get lifters out?
Re: Shifter ball??
Misc answers and 2 cents worth
Help!
Re: semi-Olds related with parts to boot
2 cents worth - bandwidth
1977 Oldsmobile Cutlass
Exhaust woes
Re: Bench Testing
Re: Exhaust woes
Re: Vista Bruiser From Heck
Re: 461 C-3 Cadillac questions  (LONG)
RPMs at 75mph
Re: Rallye Graphics...
UNBOUNCE: ISO '67 Cutlass Qtr. Panel
Re: Exhaust woes
RE: parts classifieds ....[non-Olds]
DOH! SP ID addendum #2
Re: Build Sheet-IBM Type Cards
Content-Type: text/plain
for sale, linkage
Enhance a Toro 425?
Kerry's xtra parts
Re: RPMs at 75mph
Re: Kerry's xtra parts
Re: Kerry's xtra parts
Re: Please help with Sport Steering Wheel install
RE: Dash board lights - a quick question
bb/sb parts id
Tor headers
CarTalk: Classifieds [Classifieds2000]
Re: CarTalk: Classifieds [Classifieds2000]
Decal and Heater Core questions
Re: Decal and Heater Core questions
IBM Type Cards
Re: measurements: '68 98 Convert
Re: CarTalk: Classifieds [Classifieds2000]
Re: CarTalk: Classifieds [Classifieds2000]
Re: Enhance a Toro 425?
Re: Decal and Heater Core questions
Re: Exhaust woes
Re: CarTalk: Classifieds [Classifieds2000]
Computer Controlled Distributor
Re: Computer Controlled Distributor
3 cars for sale - Middle Tennessee

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 23:25:06 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Olds performance powerhouse motors

Matt,

On that 350, I'd use the W31 pistons and 403 rods.  I mean we use W31 pistons
and 403 rods, and either the 5's or 6's with the 2" intakes.  The thing that
handcuffs us is the #^!* 350 CFM carb they require us to run, chokes all the
engines in our class to death!

I've been told the 403 rods are just a little bit thicker along the beam, adds
a little extra strength.

Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 23:31:46 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: parts classifieds ....[non-Olds]

In a message dated 98-06-13 23:21:43 EDT, you write:

<<  This is a one-time only announcement,....

  Dear Fellow Enthusiast, >>

I did not get one of these.

Probably the result of those damn "cookies".

FYI: an internet "cookie" is a software marketing tool. Companies that
advertize on some web sites can upload a "cookie" that gives them some scant
information about you, but mostly they get a surfing history of the sites that
you have visited. This is how they can say "Fellow Enthusiast" with
confidence. They only send to appropriate people. I just havent been in too
many auto related sites lately.

I really hate that. My browser is set to warn about "cookie" requests, so I
can deny them.

It is kinda a pain to keep saying NO when surfing.

Some sites are like food fights!


Karl Aune
and Soylent Ocean Mist
1965 Dynamic 88 Celebrity Sedan
Members; IVOC and OCA (#029458)
Chicago, IL

KarlAune@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

KarlAune is a trademark of World Domination Ltd., a subsidiary of Microsoft

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 23:38:44 EDT
From: <JohnMonnin@aol.com>
Subject: Re: How to get lifters out?

I saw a lifter puller in the auto parts store for about$15 bucks and I was
going to buy it when I noticed how it attached to the lifter was similar to
ring pliers.  Ring pliers look like needle nose pliers with curved tips that
spread apart when you squeeze them.  So far I have been sucessfull using the
ring pliers.  I personally would not use vice grips unless you are planing to
replace the lifters.  Scratch up the lifter too bad and you will mess up the
lifter bore then you have real problems.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 23:44:49 EDT
From: <JohnMonnin@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Shifter ball??

What color shifter ball?

I guess occasionally have cheezy taste because I love the look of taking the
pool ball that is closest to mathing your car and drilling and tapping it.
Any car with a black interior looks cool with a 8 ball for a shifter ball.
You can use a flat nut for a jam nut to keep the ball rotated in the right
position.

Advantages of a pool ball shifter:

1.    Large Size.  Being a big guy I prefer a big shifter ball.  (My all time
favorite shifter ball is the one found in 6-speed Z-28 93-99.

2.

2.    Custom design, its not the most original thing in the world

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 21:28:22 PDT
From: "Doug Kitchener" <oldsdoug@hotmail.com>
Subject: Misc answers and 2 cents worth

Just been going thru the accumulated digests...

Someone replaced a wiper motor... run an external ground wire to the
motor and see if that helps.

Custom Sport Steering wheel - yes, you do need a spring and the little
plastic retainer gadget.  Chevrolet Parts used to support this stuff,
dunno if they still do or not.  Will see if I can find a P/N around
here for the kit.  Glitch... some Olds columns/cancelling cams used
a snap-in retainer, some a 1/4-turn thing, so you may have to swap
that piece.  Attention, while on the subject, the cancelling cam for
the tilt colyum is different from the one for the standard column.

Not enuf room for my 2 cents worth, follows next msg.
Regards, Doug Kitchener

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 00:28:46 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Help!

I need a driver's side quarter panel for my 1967 OLds Cutlass
Convertible.  My mechanic says there aren't any.... Does anyone know of
someplace that has them or can reproduce one?  Or am I doomed to cut one
off a wreck somewhere?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 00:31:17 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@viperlink.net>
Subject: Re: semi-Olds related with parts to boot

super442@mindspring.com wrote:
>
> Hello everybody,
>                This is only semi Olds related.Do we have any one out there
> that is a complete computer genius?On several Olds sites,and others there
> is a gif of a little Black G-body doing a burnout.I know it's really a
> B**ck ,but it's small enough to work.Does anybody know how to convert this
> thing to a desktop icon?

That's actually a Grand National, taken from the author's site <G>, with
permission of coarse...  He was supposed to get back to me when I
started using them about a custom one made with my Cutlass...  Or at
least a slight mod to look like a Cutlass, in dark red...  <G>
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 21:39:59 PDT
From: "Doug Kitchener" <oldsdoug@hotmail.com>
Subject: 2 cents worth - bandwidth

Just been going thru the accumulated digests, and noticing all the
nifty signatures that people have whipped up.

Folks, I've been on and off this list before, and have hesitated to
mention this, but I just gotta do it, at the risk of offending.
Frankly, I find the long signatures aggravating and annoying!  Once is
maybe OK, but when a guy posts several times a day and you see it alla
time, enuf is enuf!  I just had to say it, have noticed it before and
it's not getting any better.  Adds several pages to the digest.
Thanks for listening; flames privately, the signatures waste enuf
bandwidth, IMO.

Doug Kitchener, oldsdoug@hotmail.com, '70 Cutlass Supreme Convertible,
Galleon Gold/White/White, 16.20@ 77 mph, Rocket 350-4 bbl;'72 Vista-
Cruiser 2-seat, Viking Blue/blue, '84 Chevy Caprice F41, '81 Malibu, '72
Cutlass Sedan, first son of Harry and Marguerite, holder of the sacred
chalice, heir to the Holy Rings of Betazed, OCA member 2887.  (Ad
nauseum, see what I mean?)

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 00:39:17 -0400
From: Larry Recek <lsr@epix.net>
Subject: 1977 Oldsmobile Cutlass

Looking to purchase an after market rear passenger quarter panel for
1977 oldsmobile Cutlass . Contact at <lsr@epix.net>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 23:53:31 -0500
From: senator@itis.com (Robert F. Newbegin Jr.)
Subject: Exhaust woes

I know I beat this into the ground last time I brought this up, but I am
wondering what to replace my exhaust with.

The car is a 1978 Cutlass Supreme W-19 with a '77? 350.  The engine is
entirely stock except for the Accel ignition, and a lack of pollution
stuff.  Originality is not an issue here.  Currently running stock
manifolds (modified for dual exhaust), true dual (no cats) 2" OD rusty
pipes.  I usually keep the RPMs below 3000.  I have only hit 4000 RPMs
once.

I have a new set of Coyote brand headers.  (got them from a previous owner,
$40 for the set).  I plan on installing these soon, with the engine in the
car.

Question #1 - If I use 2.5", will it hurt my low-end torque? Would it be
too much?  Should I use 2.25" instead?  Which would be better?

Ques. #2 - I have gone to numerous junkyards, all saying I will never find
a dual-humped trans. crossmember for my G-body.  What should I do? I can't
weld very well...

Thanks in advance.

Robert F. Newbegin Jr.     1978 Cutlass Supreme W-19      senator@itis.com
===============================================
To remove yourself from this list, or for other   Olds mailing list
questions, go here:      http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 01:16:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Bench Testing

At 11:03 PM 6/13/98 EDT, you wrote:
>And was attempting to find whether it was the horn, horn relay, or possibly a
>ground problem.
>
>My Chassis Manual says to bench test the horn. No other specifics.
>
>So....apply 12 volts, right?

(-) cable to the base of the horn, and a heavier-gauge (12 or 14ga) wire
from the (+) terminal to the spade connector.

>And thus I need a bench testing battery cables, so I get current when I want
>it.
>
>But again, bench testing is directly to battery if no other specs?

Yes. Actually, your front radiator support makes a fine bench for testing,
since it's grounded to the (-) terminal on your battery, and many items
(horn, starter, etc) are grounded through their body or mounting bracket, so
as long as there's some metal-to-metal contact between the part and
something like a bolt head on that radiator support, you just have to use a
jumper for that (+) wire connection.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 01:20:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Exhaust woes

At 11:53 PM 6/13/98 -0500, you wrote:
>I know I beat this into the ground last time I brought this up, but I am
>wondering what to replace my exhaust with.
>
>The car is a 1978 Cutlass Supreme W-19 with a '77? 350.  The engine is
 [snip of further description]

A relatively stock 350 would do fine with a 2.25 system.

>Ques. #2 - I have gone to numerous junkyards, all saying I will never find
>a dual-humped trans. crossmember for my G-body.  What should I do? I can't
>weld very well...

They're right; luckily for you, what you're looking for is the relatively
common dual-hump crossmember from a '72 or earlier A-body. Even
single-exhaust cars often came with the dual-hump crossmembers (I got my
spare from a '72 Vista wagon with single-exhaust).
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 22:49:21 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Vista Bruiser From Heck

This reminds me of Wagons of Steel type stuff.  Their calendar is pretty
funny as was Issue #10.

Long Live VC's


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '72 Vista Cruiser
'80 GMC 1/2 ton (the youngster)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 00:55:41 -0600
From: "Igor" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: 461 C-3 Cadillac questions  (LONG)

I don't know how you can smooth out the idle, but I understand what you
meen about the uneven idle.  I have '81 Dodge van with an aftermarket cam
(don't know which one couse I did not put it in myself).  It runs great but
the idle is loopy.

My other, more important question is about the 307-455 swap.  I am about to
do this on my '81 Delta 88.  Since the two cars share a similar chassis, I
would like to ask you a few questions.

Question 1: You say you used the 307 engine mounts.  Is that both the
engine and frame mounts.
Question 2: What kind of a rear-end/tranny are you running.  What about the
power difference between the 455 and 307.
Question 3: Have you noticed a big difference when going to dual exaust
from single.  I am not sure what to do. Single or Dual.  Money is the
primary issue.
Question 4: I will also use the stock carb/distributor.  Any problems
there.
Question 5: Is there any clearance between the engine and frame so that
headers are possible.

Thanks a lot.  There is not many people on the list that have performed
this swap and I really need these questions anwered.  On that note, if
anyone else is familiar with 80s Delta 455 swap, please let me know.

Igor Todorovic, University of Calgary
1981 Delta 88 (455/TH400, 255/60/15 BFG, 2.41limited slip)
1981 98 Regency (every option, 307/200r4/propane)
1976 Delta 88 (now parts car, was 455)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360, RVcam, 4:10 gears, tire smoker, king off the line)
1995 Intrepid (3.3L, dads car, okay, but no Delta)

- ----------
> From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
> To: Oldsmobile Mailing List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: 461 C-3 Cadillac questions  (LONG)
> Date: Saturday, June 13, 1998 5:32 PM
>
> My '88 Cadillac Brougham now has a 455 bored 0.030" over, with an
> Edelbrock camshaft, 2.072" intake valves, mildly ported "J" heads, and
> about 9.3:1 compression.  Most of the 307 stuff was transferred over,
> including the exhaust manifolds, E4MC Q-jet, EST distributor,
> SD-200 starter motor (small body) and positive backpressure EGR valve.
>
> The engine fits very well in this "full-size" chassis.  The stock 307
> engine mounts were retained; as discussed recently, the water pump and
> therefore cooling fan do indeed stay at the same location with respect to
> the shroud.  Since bigblocks never came with an R-4 A/C compressor, the
> water pump bracket had to be cut and lengthened.  On the other side, the
> alternator bracket needed about 1" of spacers to reach the power steering
> brace.  Both the A/C and alternator belts are stock 307 plus 5 cm in
> length.  I think 1 more centimetre would make things a bit easier.
> Overall, the stock 307 calibration works well with this engine.  There is
> a bit of spark knock at one particular (light) throttle opening and
engine
> RPM, but the ESC (knock sensor, '88-'90) system accommodates this with
6-9
> degrees of knock retard, as reported by Diacom.  Timing is set at 20
> degrees BTDC; ~26 seems to work OK, but hot cranking performance
> suffers, manifested by a momentary pause after the first rotation.  It is
> interesting to note that the computer's spark table simulates a ported
> manifold vacuum source for the distributor advance.  Coolant temperature
> stays in the 190-200 F range (180 F thermostat) using the stock clutched
7
> blade fan and heavy duty 3-row 31" core radiator.
>
> My main problem is achieving a stable idle.  I originally thought the
> camshaft was sufficiently mild (I/E, 214/224 degrees @ 0.050") for this
> size of engine.  It idles relatively smoothly (not as smooth as stock)
> while in open loop, but once the oxygen sensor readings come into play,
it
> appears that 14.7:1 isn't appropriate for a stable idle (in park) at less
> than 1000 RPM.  This translates to about 750 RPM in gear (1400 stall
> converter), with an oscillatory fluctuation +/- 25 RPM.  Idle vacuum is
> about 16 inches at ~700 RPM, climbing to 21 inches at 1100 RPM.  What
> is normal (idle speed, vacuum readings) for this engine/camshaft
> combination?
>
> Another concern is a leaning condition in the 4000+ range.  This doesn't
> seem to occur in 1st gear, but happens in 2nd and especially 3rd
according
> to oxygen sensor readings.  In the 3000 RPM range, voltage is over
> 900 mV but drops to 830-860 mV at the upper end.  Changing to
dramatically
> richer secondary metering rods (DG) results in only a 20 mV change.  At
> first, I hypothesized that exhaust backpressure was diluting the mixture,
> but now with a true dual exhaust system replacing the stock single, the
> condition persists.  Would I be correct in assuming that there's a fuel
> delivery problem to the carburetor, causing a transient low fuel level
> condition?  Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario,
Canada
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 01:07:18 -0600
From: "Igor" <todorovb@cadvision.com>
Subject: RPMs at 75mph

Can someone please tell me what RPMs I would be turning with my '81 Delta
88 with a 455/TH400 and aprox. 2000-2400 stall converter if I used 3:23
gears? 3:08 gears?  The tires are BFG 255/60/15s

The car currnetly has a 2:41 limited slip (posi) and the engine will be a
455 .030over, 272-280AD with .448, .472 lift., 10:1CR, lightly ported J
heads.  I would like to have as much crusing power but have built the car
for best acceleration.  It is my dream to run against Mustang cobras and
other such cars in a Delta.  What type of power difference should I notice
with this setup between 3:23s and 2:41s off the line.  My frined has a '79
GMC with 350/TH350 and 3:73 gears.  He has headers, Duals, Edelbrock
performer intake, holly 600cfm carb, K&N, Accel ignition.   This truck is
fast but I ABSOLUTLEY need to be faster.  I would like to trail him off the
line and pull away after about 35-40mph.  What gears will I need to do
that.  Is this possible with 2:41s.  As far as exaust goes, I would like to
one day put some headers (if I find some) and dual 2.5 inch but for now, I
might be just stuck with Disel 2.5 single (no Catalytic, just a straight
pipe), long Dynomax Turbo Muffler and a 1/2 foot downturn pipe (no
tailpipe).  Will this exasut be sufficinet for the 455.  Thanks a lot.
Remember, NEED to beat that Chevy.  The reason why I need to do it is
because I installed all the parts into his truck and tuned it.  I can't
have a slower car.  No way.  Thanks.

Igor Todorovic, UofC
1981 Delta 88 (455/TH400, 255/60/15 BFG, 2.41limited slip)
1981 98 Regency (every option, 307/200r4/propane)
1976 Delta 88 (now parts car, was 455)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360, RVcam, 4:10 gears, tire smoker, king off the line)
1995 Intrepid (3.3L, dads car, okay, but no Delta)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 04:50:44 EDT
From: <W30442CS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Rallye Graphics...

In a message dated 98-06-13 22:54:23 EDT, you write:

>
>OldsNuts,
>
> I have a Oldsmobile Street Rocket member who is in need of the FULL
> graphics package for a Rallye 350. He has found a partial set with
> everything except the rear quarter graphics (Rallye 350). It seems that
> he has the cash to buy right now. Please E-Mail me directly if anyone has
> a lead.
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
>
>

were did your friend find the decal set, i have found the (rallye 350) decal
from paddocks for 10$.  its the rest of the set that im in need of.  steven,
w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 07:44:13 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: ISO '67 Cutlass Qtr. Panel

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------

From:	Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>

I need a driver's side quarter panel for my 1967 OLds Cutlass
Convertible.  My mechanic says there aren't any.... Does anyone know of
someplace that has them or can reproduce one?  Or am I doomed to cut one
off a wreck somewhere?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 08:53:38 -0400
From: "Torque Tech" <torque@surfsouth.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust woes

Hi Robert!

Saw your post to the Olds list.  Concerning 2.5" versus smaller size tubing.
The primary tube on your headers does the main "tuning" of your exhaust.  If
they are sized properly, it really shouldn't matter if you go with 2.5" or
even 3"+.

There is a company (Maximum Torque Specialties) in the Chicago area (773)
745-8799 that makes aftermarket dual humped crossmembers for your vehicle.
$189 I think.

By the way, we sell performance exhaust systems (mandrel bent, aluminized,
2.5" or 3") for your vehicle.  Will be glad to send a copy of our catalog if
you like.  Just request the Exhaust catalog and give us your mailing address
and it'll be on its way.  It has some really good undercar photos showing
the system installed, some good tech info and pricing.

Keith @ Torque Tech / Performance Exhaust Products
torque@surfsouth.com










99
- -----Original Message-----
From: Robert F. Newbegin Jr. <senator@itis.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, June 14, 1998 12:54 AM
Subject: Exhaust woes


>I know I beat this into the ground last time I brought this up, but I am
>wondering what to replace my exhaust with.
>
>The car is a 1978 Cutlass Supreme W-19 with a '77? 350.  The engine is
>entirely stock except for the Accel ignition, and a lack of pollution
>stuff.  Originality is not an issue here.  Currently running stock
>manifolds (modified for dual exhaust), true dual (no cats) 2" OD rusty
>pipes.  I usually keep the RPMs below 3000.  I have only hit 4000 RPMs
>once.
>
>I have a new set of Coyote brand headers.  (got them from a previous owner,
>$40 for the set).  I plan on installing these soon, with the engine in the
>car.
>
>Question #1 - If I use 2.5", will it hurt my low-end torque? Would it be
>too much?  Should I use 2.25" instead?  Which would be better?
>
>Ques. #2 - I have gone to numerous junkyards, all saying I will never find
>a dual-humped trans. crossmember for my G-body.  What should I do? I can't
>weld very well...
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Robert F. Newbegin Jr.     1978 Cutlass Supreme W-19      senator@itis.com
>===============================================
>To remove yourself from this list, or for other   Olds mailing list
>questions, go here:      http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 07:17:39 -0600
From: "Kevin Meredith" <bkmeredith@telusplanet.net>
Subject: RE: parts classifieds ....[non-Olds]

Visit http://www.luckman.com/anoncookie/index.html to obtain a copy of
Luckman's Anonymous Cookie program...it'll solve the cookie problem.  I
haven't had a 'crumb' <g> of trouble since I installed it two weeks
ago...because they pi** me off too!

Kevin

Kevin Meredith
Okotoks, Alberta
70' Vista Cruiser
mailto:bkmeredith@telusplanet.net
http://www.telusplanet.net/public/mereditk/bkolds.htm

- -----Original Message-----
From:	oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of KarlAune@aol.com
Sent:	Saturday, June 13, 1998 9:32 PM
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:	Re: parts classifieds ....[non-Olds]


In a message dated 98-06-13 23:21:43 EDT, you write:

<<  This is a one-time only announcement,....

  Dear Fellow Enthusiast, >>

I did not get one of these.

Probably the result of those damn "cookies".

FYI: an internet "cookie" is a software marketing tool. Companies that
advertize on some web sites can upload a "cookie" that gives them some scant
information about you, but mostly they get a surfing history of the sites
that
you have visited. This is how they can say "Fellow Enthusiast" with
confidence. They only send to appropriate people. I just havent been in too
many auto related sites lately.

I really hate that. My browser is set to warn about "cookie" requests, so I
can deny them.

It is kinda a pain to keep saying NO when surfing.

Some sites are like food fights!


Karl Aune
and Soylent Ocean Mist
1965 Dynamic 88 Celebrity Sedan
Members; IVOC and OCA (#029458)
Chicago, IL

KarlAune@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

KarlAune is a trademark of World Domination Ltd., a subsidiary of Microsoft

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 10:15:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: DOH! SP ID addendum #2

Dang, sometimes I really wish I had a memory... I had all worked out in my head
what to do with the 3 transes I gave the trans doctor. All was set. Then I call
him up and ask him to leave the Switch Pitch guts in the '65 case, just make it
a short shaft & rebuild it. I had forgotten that one pesky detail, which was
driven home to me last night upon installation of said trans in to the
convertible... AFTER struggling for hours to get it in there alone...

anyhow, please add this paragraph to the Switch Pitch Guide if you so desire to
keep such info at hand. The begining & ending lines show where to insert the
new paragraph.
- ---------------

....& rear housing, which can even be donated from a Chevy short-shaft
trans.
   BE AWARE: These early big-car versions of the TH400 often have no
provision for a speedometer drive, as the cars used the left front
wheel to drive the speedo. So, you might need to round up three transes
to make one short shaft switch pitch TH400: The '65-'67 SP for the
converter & workings, a later BOP TH400 for the correct bellhouse
pattern case with speedo drive accomodation, and a short shaft (even a
Chevy type will do) to supply the short output shaft & tail housing.
   Due to a one-year-only, hard to find filter configuration, the 1965
TH400's are slightly less desirable than later versions, though they....

- ----------------

Now,to get the original trans fixed up, rebuilt, & reinstalled....
- --
Chris Witt  *the* Rocket Scientist
1968 442 convertible, originally & to be again W30, et. al
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 10:50:04 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Build Sheet-IBM Type Cards

h-special_nut@mindless.com wrote:
>
> On Wed, 27 May 1998 "flynt myrick" <f_myrick@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >   Thanks for the information on build sheet hiding places.  If I find
> >mine, I will let you know.
> >   I have never heard of the IBM type computer cards some of you
> >mentioned in your reply.  What was the purpose of this card?
>
> I found a similar 8.5"x4" card in a '69 Cutlass 4-door.
> It reads approximately as follows:
[snip of ASCII art]

That's your build sheet. It should look just like mine:
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/buildsheet.html

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
         777777 33333
            77      33
Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
          77        33
         77     33333
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 07:45:12 PDT
From: "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
Subject: Content-Type: text/plain

i have redone shifter linkage for 73 to 76 (maybe 77?) if anybody is in
need of it just send me a email for more info.

Thanks.
       Ryan


  My   -------   -------
             /   |
            /    |
           /     ------
          /            |
         /             |
        /        ------   DELTA 88

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 07:46:08 PDT
From: "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
Subject: for sale, linkage

i have redone shifter linkage for 73 to 76 (maybe 77?) if anybody is in
need of it just send me a email for more info.

Thanks.
       Ryan


  My   -------   -------
             /   |
            /    |
           /     ------
          /            |
         /             |
        /        ------   DELTA 88

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 10:51:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Enhance a Toro 425?

Date: Fri, 12 Jun 1998 01:55:00 EDT
From: <DHickel296@aol.com>
Subject: 425 performance parts

I have a 67 Toro with the stock 425 and tranny. I'm curious on whether there
are any performance enhancing parts available for that engine, where they can
be found, and which parts (if any) would provide the most improvements. It
only has about 71K miles on it and goes pretty good as it sits, but like most
of us, I want more. Any advice would be appreciated.
Darren 67 Toronado Deluxe

PS I found new front wheel bearings for $150.00. that's half the price the
first place I found them.
==========================
Darren, that motor is about the epitome of performance already. It's very
unlikely that anything you can do to it will improve its performance. And fit a
Toronado, that is. I guess you could HEI-ize the ignition. If you can get it to
fit the air cleaner. Alternate intakes would be too tall for a Toro. Another
cam *might* eke out a few more powers, but at a loss of drivability. Cold air
induction might help- make your own 2-snorkel air cleaner? Your gears are
already the lowest stock Toro available- though motor home guys might be ablel
to supply higher performance ratios. you have the highest compression pistons
ever made- tiny 5cc or so dish.
    That motor already IS an optimized package.
- ----
btw, since you found these bearings so affordable... why not share the supplier
info w/ the rest of us!? We'd appreciate it.
- --
Chris Witt  *the* Rocket Scientist
1968 442 convertible, originally & to be again W30, et. al
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 10:59:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Kerry's xtra parts

For my next stunt, I will ask if what little Olds stuff I have is worth
anything to anyone.

I have tried to advertise the heads on 442.com, Perf Years Bulletin, and even
Anyhoo, I have a pair of B's, a pair of C's, a  single K, and a 4bbl intake 
from
67~

If this is nothing more than scrap metal, let me know; I can definately use
the floor space whether I sell it or toss it. Sorry if this all sounds
cunfusing, but somehow, it is to me. Thanks, Kerry
- ------------------------------
Well, the heads should sell immediately for $50 each. The intake has the old
crappy choke, so might command $30-40 at a swap meet. If I found these at the
scrap metal place, I'b buy 'em up quick. Then again, they only hit me up about
$5 per head. 10x cheaper than $50 each.
- --
Chris Witt  *the* Rocket Scientist
1968 442 convertible, originally & to be again W30, et. al
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 15:15:50 +0000
From: Brad Otto <BradOtto@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: RPMs at 75mph

At 01:07 AM 6/14/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Can someone please tell me what RPMs I would be turning with my '81 Delta
>88 with a 455/TH400 and aprox. 2000-2400 stall converter if I used 3:23
>gears? 3:08 gears?  The tires are BFG 255/60/15s
>
At 75 mph you'd be turning about 3,010 rpm with 3.23 gears and about 2,870
rpm with 3.08's.

Brad Otto
'69 442 Convertible, 4 Speed
'70 442 W-30 Hardtop

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 11:18:14 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: Kerry's xtra parts

What motor is your 4bbl intake from?  I have a 67 cutlass with a 330 and
I've been toying with the idea of upgrading from my stock 2-jet....

Chris Brown Witt wrote:
>
> For my next stunt, I will ask if what little Olds stuff I have is worth
> anything to anyone.
>
> I have tried to advertise the heads on 442.com, Perf Years Bulletin, and even
> Anyhoo, I have a pair of B's, a pair of C's, a  single K, and a 4bbl intake
from > 67~ > > If this is nothing more than scrap metal, let me know; I can
definately use > the floor space whether I sell it or toss it. Sorry if this 
all
sounds > cunfusing, but somehow, it is to me. Thanks, Kerry >
------------------------------ > Well, the heads should sell immediately for 
$50
each. The intake has the old > crappy choke, so might command $30-40 at a swap
meet. If I found these at the > scrap metal place, I'b buy 'em up quick. Then
again, they only hit me up about > $5 per head. 10x cheaper than $50 each. > 
-- >
Chris Witt  *the* Rocket Scientist > 1968 442 convertible, originally & to be
again W30, et. al > Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu > --

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 11:20:22 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: Kerry's xtra parts

What motor is the 4bbl intake from?  I'm looking for one for the 330 in
my 67 Cutlass

Chris Brown Witt wrote:
>
> For my next stunt, I will ask if what little Olds stuff I have is worth
> anything to anyone.
>
> I have tried to advertise the heads on 442.com, Perf Years Bulletin, and even
> Anyhoo, I have a pair of B's, a pair of C's, a  single K, and a 4bbl intake
from > 67~ > > If this is nothing more than scrap metal, let me know; I can
definately use > the floor space whether I sell it or toss it. Sorry if this 
all
sounds > cunfusing, but somehow, it is to me. Thanks, Kerry >
------------------------------ > Well, the heads should sell immediately for 
$50
each. The intake has the old > crappy choke, so might command $30-40 at a swap
meet. If I found these at the > scrap metal place, I'b buy 'em up quick. Then
again, they only hit me up about > $5 per head. 10x cheaper than $50 each. > 
-- >
Chris Witt  *the* Rocket Scientist > 1968 442 convertible, originally & to be
again W30, et. al > Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu > --

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 08:16:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joe Padavano <joe_padavano@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Please help with Sport Steering Wheel install

Dan Williams wrote:

>After more research, I belive that instead of a wire, that a spring,
>eyelet and insulator is usedto make contact between the cam assembly and
>the horn contact.  Is this correct?

Yes, Dan, that's correct.  The eyelet comes in two lengths, 7/32" and 19/32".
Your application uses the shorter one, as does, apparently, all 67-68 cars
except Toro and tilt wheel cars.  This was apparently the setup used on the
bottom-of-the-line standard steering wheel.  It's part no.390752.

The insulator looks like part no. 382117, same applications.  The spring
should be 1 5/32" long and is part no. 382116, which was also used on the
66-67 standard wheel.

I think these parts are similar to those used on other GM, so you may want to
check some non-Olds resto parts houses and PartsVoice as well.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 12:48:36 -0300
From: Raul Martinez <rmart@satlink.com>
Subject: RE: Dash board lights - a quick question

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BD9792.C55763A0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

	What about same problem but for a 66 Delta 88?. Thanks

	Raul Martinez
	

- -----Mensaje original-----
De:	Greg Pruett  [SMTP:grpruett@vt.edu]
Enviado el:	Jueves 4 de Junio de 1998 12:25
Para:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Asunto:	Re: Dash board lights - a quick question

>All:
>
>How do I replace a burned out dash board light?  I hpe I don't have to tear
the whole dash apart.
>
>-Loris

Depends, what's it in?  If it's a `72 cutlass you're all set, 8 screws and
you're there. (more or less)  If it's a newer car the procedure is a bit
more involved.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BD9792.C55763A0
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- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BD9792.C55763A0--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 12:16:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: bb/sb parts id

Easy ID for intake off engine: BB=14" across, SB=12" across
Dr. Robert Barry
===========
No tools required:
Find the Big Letter or Number.

Letter= BB, Number = SB

In your case, the 390390 intake should have an "E" probably in the depression
just behind the front water passage.

Always the exceptions... after 1977? they started using BOTH, like the "5A"
heads, "4A" & "5A" intakes, "3B" blocks, etc. If # & letter are adjacent & same
size: small block.

 --
Chris Witt  *the* Rocket Scientist
1968 442 convertible, originally & to be again W30, et. al
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 12:18:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Tor headers

From: "Felix, Josh " <Josh.Felix@turner.com>
Subject: RE: 425 performance parts

     I have a 425 in my Cutlass with headers.  They are from hooker but are
     not supercomps.  I believe Hooker sold the supercomps for the 425 but
     they were something like $325 for the set.  I didn't feel that it was
     worth the money.  In the cutlass they hang just alittle low but you
     might have better luck with this in the Toro.
     Josh
=================
The Toronado is a front wheel drive. Not much room around the trans, etc. for
headers. Limited market, too. Could have a set custom-made I guess. WAY
different space to run thru than a Cutlass/ A-body though.
- --
Chris Witt  *the* Rocket Scientist
1968 442 convertible, originally & to be again W30, et. al
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 12:19:37 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: CarTalk: Classifieds [Classifieds2000]

To those list members looking for a 455 engine for that certain Olds,
this URL was forwarded to me so I thought I would forward it to the
list as I know there's someone out there who wants this engine.!!!




http://www.classifieds2000.com/cgi-cls/ad.exe?P10+C239+A0+R19513+Q357853879

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 11:52:10 -0500 (CDT)
From: Bryceman <bryceman@442.com>
Subject: Re: CarTalk: Classifieds [Classifieds2000]

>To those list members looking for a 455 engine for that certain Olds,
>this URL was forwarded to me so I thought I would forward it to the
>list as I know there's someone out there who wants this engine.!!!

Nothing against the person who forwarded this to the list but... Chris Witt
should get a kick out of this one... This ad says it's a 390hp engine from
1975. Yeah, right.

Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Oldsmobiles!
'66 Dynamic 88 B07 Apprehender
'65 442 Post Coupe
'65 Vista Cruiser
'72 H/O Convertible Pace Car Replica
Email: bryceman@442.com  URL: www.442.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 14:29:32 EDT
From: <Iam2XL@aol.com>
Subject: Decal and Heater Core questions

As I continue my summer restoration work, several questions abound:

1)  I am redoing all my underhood decals.  How do I get them on without any
wrinkles?  Is there some magic chemical I can apply that allows me to smoothe
the decals out?

2)  When putting new decals on my SS II center caps (to get those old decals
off, pour some lacquer thinner into the recess that the decal sits in.  Cover
the center cap with a can overnight, and peel the decal off in the morning.),
I noticed there are two different styles of the bolt on center caps.  One
center cap uses a decal in which the red background of the rocket logo is
ribbed, and the recess of that cap has a slightly wider diameter, by about
1/16 of an inch.  The other cap doesn't have a ribbed background on the rocket
logo, and any of the repro decals or even decals off the newer SS wheels will
fit.  Does anyone know what the proper application for each type of cap is?

3)  Is there any way at all to replace the heater core without discharging the
A/C system?  Mine has a slight leak, and I don't really want to discharge and
dismantle an A/C system that is putting out 30 degrees F at the ducts.

and 4)  The previous owner did some re-routing of vaccuum lines, possibly even
putting a newer carb on the car.  What is the proper carbuerator serial number
(or range) for a 1970 Olds Cutlass Supreme with the L74 engine, and where
would be a good place to get a diagram or listing of where all the vaccuum
lines are supposed to go?

That should be enough questions for now.  Gotta hit the streets before it
rains.

Duane Ambroz
1970 Cutlass Supreme convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 14:42:40 EDT
From: <JohnMonnin@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Decal and Heater Core questions

In a message dated 98-06-14 14:34:50 EDT, you write:

<< 3)  Is there any way at all to replace the heater core without discharging
the
 A/C system?   >>

There is no need to discharge the A/C to replace the heater core.  I just
replaced mine on my 69 cutlass.  The following webpage has a great article
with pictures on how to replace you heater core.

http://www.d-p-g.com/musclecar/Nov97/eS.htm

The lowest heater core bolt is the hardest to remove.  I pulled the inner
fender well to remove it but there are other options.  If you are not worried
about minor alterations there should be a dimple on the innner fender well.
Use a 1" hole saw  centered on this dimple and you will be able to reach this
bolt w/o removing the inner fender.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 13:44:52 -0500
From: "lou biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: IBM Type Cards

Everyone:

I had the avantage of working with computers before windows "95". Every
computer(almost) was IBM and they used key punch cards to identify various
options and etc., darn near everyone in the assembly plant had his own to
check if the correct units were being put on the right automobile. It was a
pain in the a--, but it almost worked correctly. A copy was normally in the
vehicle.

Lou Biggs

- ----------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 14:40:27 -0400
From: "Graham Stewart" <graham.stewart@utoronto.ca>
Subject: Re: measurements: '68 98 Convert

>I have the option of driving or trailering our 68 from
>Wisconsin to the Boston Area.  We have a 20'
>enclosed trailer that we use for our F100 (very tight fit)
>and need to know the following info:
>

According to Standard Catalog of American Cars:

>curb weight

4295 lbs.

>overall length
223.7 inches

>overall width
80 inches

>wheelbase

126 inches

Also: height is 55.8 inches

The is, of course, from the factory.

>Howard Tarnoff

Hope this helps ...

Graham Stewart
graham.stewart@utoronto.ca
Toronto, Canada

74 Ninety-Eight
69 Delta 88
66 Toronado
67 Bu*ck Wildcat

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 13:31:31 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: CarTalk: Classifieds [Classifieds2000]

This ad says it's a 390hp engine from
> 1975. Yeah, right.

Yeah, I'd thought the same thing.  ~And~ needing rebuilt...  Imagine how many
horses it musta had when it was new!!!  At least it doesn't say 1979...   Maybe
the car's really a 70 Toro, but the poor guy didn't realize the difference ;)

The Oldsmobile Magnet -- Charley Buehner@Sidney Montana
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com or mailto:charley@rocketship.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner  -- Oldsmagnet Homepage
OldsList Vital Info: http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 12:52:04 PDT
From: "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: CarTalk: Classifieds [Classifieds2000]

>
>This ad says it's a 390hp engine from
>> 1975. Yeah, right.
>
>Yeah, I'd thought the same thing.  ~And~ needing rebuilt...  Imagine
how many
>horses it musta had when it was new!!!  At least it doesn't say 1979...
Maybe
>the car's really a 70 Toro, but the poor guy didn't realize the
difference ;)
>
>is this not a good buy? if you would get new heads?

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 16:27:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Enhance a Toro 425?

At 10:51 AM 6/14/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I have a 67 Toro with the stock 425 and tranny. I'm curious on whether there
>are any performance enhancing parts available for that engine, where they can
>be found, and which parts (if any) would provide the most improvements. It
>only has about 71K miles on it and goes pretty good as it sits, but like most
 [snip of good advice...]
>cam *might* eke out a few more powers, but at a loss of drivability. Cold air
>induction might help- make your own 2-snorkel air cleaner? Your gears are

If it's the stock intake, he's already got a 2-snorkel air cleaner, though
those tiny little "trumpets" on that intake probably don't flow very much
air at all. Some ducting, creatively placed (and in a cramped Toro's engine
bay, he *will* need to be creative!), certainly would help to lower intake
air temp.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 16:27:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Decal and Heater Core questions

At 02:29 PM 6/14/98 EDT, you wrote:
>3)  Is there any way at all to replace the heater core without discharging the
>A/C system?  Mine has a slight leak, and I don't really want to discharge and
>dismantle an A/C system that is putting out 30 degrees F at the ducts.

Removing the heater core doesn't require discharging the A/C; you remove the
speednuts on the engine side of the firewall that hold the air box on the
inside of the firewell.

>and 4)  The previous owner did some re-routing of vaccuum lines, possibly even
>putting a newer carb on the car.  What is the proper carbuerator serial number
>(or range) for a 1970 Olds Cutlass Supreme with the L74 engine, and where

The only carb used on the L74 4-bbl 350 was the # 7040250 carb.

>would be a good place to get a diagram or listing of where all the vaccuum
>lines are supposed to go?

The factory shop manual would have it. It's not too complicated:

1) From a manifold vacuum port (on one of the front runners), a short hose
goes to the lowest of three ports on the Thermostatic Vacuum Switch (TVS) on
the front of the intake manifold (if you have an automatic transmission,
there is a "T"-fitting in that line, and another hose goes to a metal tube
running along the right-side valve cover which goes to the transmission
vacuum modulator valve)

2) A single line runs from the ported vacuum port on the driver's-side front
of the Quadrajet to the the single port on the front of the Transmission
Controlled Spark (TCS) solenoid (small metal canister with an electrical
connector on the intake in front of the carb).

3) The back end of the TCS solenoid has two vacuum ports; the one sticking
straight back in line with the front port, and one sticking up at a 90'
angle to the body of the solenoid. A vacuum hose runs from that port
sticking out at 90', to the middle port on the TVS. Another hose runs from
the port sticking straight out to a connector on a fitting at the back of
the carb at the top, which also supplies air for the hot-air choke system.

4) The top port on the TVS has a vacuum line that runs all the way back to
the distributor vacuum advance.

5) If you have power brakes, you have a hose from the power booster running
to a large vacuum port on the back runners of the intake.

6) If you have the stock snorkel intake, a vacuum hose runs from a fitting
on the manifold runners, up to a thermostatic switch on the bottom of the
air cleaner, and then from there to the flapper door on the snorkel.

If your TCS solenoid is missing or inoperative, or the transmission has been
changed out to a unit lacking the appropriate electrical connector, you can
just run a single vacuum hose from the ported vacuum port on the front of
the carb to the middle port on the TVS.
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 16:27:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Exhaust woes

At 08:53 AM 6/14/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Saw your post to the Olds list.  Concerning 2.5" versus smaller size tubing.
>The primary tube on your headers does the main "tuning" of your exhaust.  If
>they are sized properly, it really shouldn't matter if you go with 2.5" or
>even 3"+.

Ooops- I was responding to another guy's questions, but good point. It
sounded like his motor was largely stock, so even 2.25" tubes wouldn't
provide much restriction, I'd imagine, and he could buy the tailpipes over
the counter for the 442 application.

>There is a company (Maximum Torque Specialties) in the Chicago area (773)
>745-8799 that makes aftermarket dual humped crossmembers for your vehicle.
>$189 I think.

Well, his vehicle, really. As far as junkyard pieces, those early A-body
crossmembers can fit the later G-bodies, if one was taking the cheap route.

>By the way, we sell performance exhaust systems (mandrel bent, aluminized,
>2.5" or 3") for your vehicle.  Will be glad to send a copy of our catalog if
>you like.  Just request the Exhaust catalog and give us your mailing address
>and it'll be on its way.  It has some really good undercar photos showing
>the system installed, some good tech info and pricing.

Thank you very much for the offer. I'm familiar with your products, and they
have a good reputation on this list; I'm glad you've joined us! Right now,
I'm running a modified 403 in a '78 Buick Electra, which I had a local shop
weld up a 2.25" system for running from the stock manifolds; on that, I used
an early big-car crossmember, as my spare A-body crossmember was too narrow
for that chassis. My Toro-455 powered '70 SX has a reproduction stock-type
2.25"/2" exhaust with the trumpets at the rear that I installed myself; fine
for a stock powerplant with a low-lift cam.

Now, if you can just get some polished stainless-steel stock-type exhaust
trumpets with the 3" inlet to weld to those 3" tailpipes, I might be tempted
when I redo the exhaust for a high-rpm 425 that I'll be building... :)
_______________________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry  MailTo:RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
Theology Dept, Providence College, Providence, RI 02918

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 14:56:12 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: CarTalk: Classifieds [Classifieds2000]

> >This ad says it's a 390hp engine from 1975. Yeah, right.

> >is this not a good buy? if you would get new heads?

Well, that all depends on the rebuild it needs.  If it only needs a basic
overhaul, perhaps.  If it's got spun bearings (we've all seen ~that~ I 
suspect:(
then it probably ain't worth much.  It all boils down to what the customer is
looking for I guess.  I've been looking for a 455 that I ~didn't~ need to
o/haul.  Found one for $50.  New heads & it should have a lot of life left.
I've also seen rebuildables asked at $400!  Solid "NO" from me, ~especially~ 
for
a mid-70's block.  (When did they start getting weaker?)  Unless it's a
relatively rare engine combo (read that "right numbers" and maybe has pilot
hole, etc... I wouldn't give much for it.  Of course, $100 isn't all that much,
either.  A little too much ~for me~, but not all that much.  I'd just
investigate ~why~ it needs to be rebuilt.  If it's only a high mileage thing, 
no
problem.  If you're going to be looking at replacing a crank and a few rods due
to excessive scoring, well, ya might be better passing it up.  And ~then~
factoring in the fact that you'd want new heads, to boot...

Unless, of course it really is an older engine in the '75 car.  Then it might
command a bit higher $$$, making it a reasonable price.
- --
The Oldsmobile Magnet -- Charley Buehner@Sidney Montana
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com or mailto:charley@rocketship.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner  -- Oldsmagnet Homepage
OldsList Vital Info: http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 16:56:56 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@viperlink.net>
Subject: Computer Controlled Distributor

I'll get to the point...

I've got an 87 Cutlass, with the Y.  It's got an electronic advance
dist.  When manually advancing the timing, the motor ain't worth 2
cents.  Turn it back, and it works PERFECT.

Would it detect the Accel Supercoil, and 8.8Wires (in forms of
resistance, or what not) and compensate for that?  Meaning, advance on
it's own to where it should be?
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 15:34:06 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Computer Controlled Distributor

> I'll get to the point...

No points, HEI  :)

> It's got an electronic advance dist.

Any aftermarket ignition add-ons should be fine, high output coil, low
resistance wires, high-perf plugs, etc.  Cap and rotor, too, if there ever are
any available...  The computer expects base timing to be set at a preselected
point (20 deg or so???)  It then runs on an electronic spark map to spark adv 
or
ret based on rpm, vacuum, tps, temp, speed, etc.  Anything after the module to
make the spark better won't have adverse affects (the ECM won't know about it)
Same goes for better air intake systems, and (to a point) exhaust mods.  Above
that, you can find (hopefully) a hi-perf chip, and lower temp thermostat, and
above ~that~ you can throw the computer stuff away, and drop in a 455 ;)
- --
The Oldsmobile Magnet -- Charley Buehner@Sidney Montana
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com or mailto:charley@rocketship.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner  -- Oldsmagnet Homepage
OldsList Vital Info: http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jun 1998 17:59:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: 3 cars for sale - Middle Tennessee

In the local paper, all disclaimers apply:

'84 Hurst, power sunroof, new tires/brakes, mint $5000.00
(615) 826-2775.

'69 442 w/400 auto & a/c, garaged last 15 years $6300.00 obo
(615) 826-0888.

'89 Toronado, 3.8L, leather, 112k $4500.00
(615) 395-7529.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1310
*********************************
