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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1328


oldsmobile-digest       Thursday, June 25 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1328



[none]
Re: runs too rich, too stupid question???
1971 Cutlass ??? {WHAT IS IT?} - VIN decoding
RE: Question: Tilt Steering Wobble Side-to-Side
Re: Question: Tilt Steering Wobble Side-to-Side
'69 w30 and w31 owners
RE: Measurements for 71 Cutlass
olds merchandise
RE: '69 w30 and w31 owners
Re: Question: Tilt Steering Wobble Side-to-Side
Re: 1971 Cutlass ??? {WHAT IS IT?} - VIN decoding
Re: Question: Tilt Steering Wobble Side-to-Side
75 H/O hood (fwd)
Re: Window Tint
Re: Octane for 455
headers
Re: Octane for 455
RE: Backspacing
Re: Borla mufflers
Re: Lockup rear brakes on G-Body
Re: VIN decoding
69 Cutlass dash
Re: runs too rich, too stupid question???
re: making olds into sportscar vs. buyin
Re: Greg's Need for Speed
Re: KREEN
72 idle speed and sport wheel q
36 olds for sale
Computer Controls (was Backfires)
71 info
making an olds into a sportscar or buying one
What tranny?
Re: 71 info
Re: 72 idle speed and sport wheel q
Re: 71 info
Re: What tranny?
Re: Greg's Need for Speed
Re: What tranny?
Re: headers
Engine Rebuilding (long)
Late 120 speedo decals & new address
Turbo on 3.8V6
"Subscribe Oldsmobile"
307 Vin 9
Re: Disks in rear VS. Drum
Oxygen sensor
RE: additives
Dave Emanuel Relies
Re: additives
Re: Disks in rear VS. Drum
Re: Oxygen sensor
Re: 307 Vin 9
Re: Oxygen sensor
Re: additives
Re: Dave Emanuel Relies
Re: additives
Re: Disks in rear VS. Drum
Re: additives
Re: 307 Vin 9
Re: Oxygen sensor
Re: headers
Re: headers
Re: Engine Rebuilding (long)
Summit Gaskets
Re: Summit Gaskets

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 15:41:13 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: [none]

unsubscribe oldsmobile thomas_martin@css.mot.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 13:45:28 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: runs too rich, too stupid question???

George,
I have to agree with Mr. Rothe here. That '77 Ford smog setup is a pain,
but I'd guess on the carb first. If it has just started to run rich out
of the blue make sure the choke works. If memory serves that car has an
electric choke. It wouldn't be unreasonable for it to not be working
properly.

Good luck,

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)

>  Also, your choke may be
>sticking shut, ensure it's free operation.
>
>Mike Rothe
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 14:48:00 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: 1971 Cutlass ??? {WHAT IS IT?} - VIN decoding

I have this 1971 Cutlass ?? I acquired it for free, and am looking into
registering it before we get tough rules on old-cars like the rest of
the world.  I am reasonably sure it's a 71 Cutlass, but there's a mark
left on the trunk where there most-definately was a 442 Decal.  I know
this is meaningless, and I'm not overly concerned either way, but I'd
like to know exactly what I'm plating (as it is, it's been sitting for a
while, and I want to get plates on it soon, so It's considered
registered and operational)

At any rate: the VIN is 3 3287 1Z102305   (Note that the eight is
squished, resembling an upside-down skeleton keyhole)

I realize VIN decoding is a well-worn out use of the list, but I just
would like to know for sure what I have!

Thanx
Eric Aksomitis
1971 Cutlass ??? <-- http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/gobstop.shtml
1972 98          <-- http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/biggreen.shtml

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 13:57:59 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Question: Tilt Steering Wobble Side-to-Side

>
>I know this well, it sucks!  ftp://ni.umd.edu/gnttype/tech/steering.txt

As do I!!!!!

>Visit this site, good info on how to do it.  My 1991 Bonneville had the
>same problem, no matter what you do, it will get worse.  Fix it when it
>is warm, not 10 degrees out when I HAD to.  It will not fall off, that
>much is safe, but it will get scary.
>

Hey this is cool!! I wish I had this the first time I rebuilt one of
these monsters!
I have some bad news from my experience. The pivot pin removal tool is
only available from Snap On, Mac, or KentMore as far as I know, and it
is necessary to have one. The bolts you need to tighten are reverse torx
head.

Oh, I have seen them break by the way. This is only after they are
continued to be used after driving is dangerous. If the column is just
started there should be nothing to worry about.

Good luck,

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 17:04:59 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Question: Tilt Steering Wobble Side-to-Side

don't need a special tool to remove the pivot pins...Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 14:10:27 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: '69 w30 and w31 owners

Hey all,

A few days ago I posted the measurements for the ram air scoops from the
'68 cars. The difference between the '68 and '69 scoops has been a topic
several times in the 9 months or so I've been on the list, and twice
here just recently. I know that there are people on the list have '69
scoops. You mean to tell me no one has the time to measure these
things!?

This would be great info for the FAQ...

Brent Pinkstaff

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 15:14:28 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Measurements for 71 Cutlass

In response to the meaasurements question: a 1971 Cutlass without
trailer-hitch measures 16'8 by 6'5 approx for total body dimensions.  Of
course, in a garage of this size, the car would be four-wall touching,
so storage space should probably be 17 x 7 feet.

Eric Aksomitis
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/eric.shtml

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 17:23:45 -0400
From: dave <dave70ss@ici.net>
Subject: olds merchandise

who has olds t shirts for sale?
I saw a cool one the other day
it was a pace car history shirt
very nice
I have the S and P Catalog
some good one's there
any other around?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 16:26:07 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: '69 w30 and w31 owners

Umm, Ahhh, yes.  You talking to me  :)

Actually my W-31 was missing the bumper scoops, so I don't have anything
to measure.  I do know the opening of the scoop is different between 68
and 69.  And that the 69 brackets are lighter (and more easily bent)
than the 68.
I believe the 69 scoops are narrower and longer than the 68, but I don't
remember the numbers off hand.  I will try and look and post.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

>----------
>From: 	Brent Pinkstaff[SMTP:fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com]
>Sent: 	Wednesday, June 24, 1998 4:10 PM
>To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: 	'69 w30 and w31 owners
>
>Hey all,
>
>A few days ago I posted the measurements for the ram air scoops from the
>'68 cars. The difference between the '68 and '69 scoops has been a topic
>several times in the 9 months or so I've been on the list, and twice
>here just recently. I know that there are people on the list have '69
>scoops. You mean to tell me no one has the time to measure these
>things!?
>
>This would be great info for the FAQ...
>
>Brent Pinkstaff
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 14:33:21 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Question: Tilt Steering Wobble Side-to-Side

Dorian,
I wasn't aware that you could pull the pins successfully without the
tool. Have you achieved this with the column still in the car? I've
fixed about 20 or so of these columns, but I bought the tool after I did
the first one and my boss had one that I used on that one.

Just shows that the list clears all ignorance :-)

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)
>
>don't need a special tool to remove the pivot pins...Dorian
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 17:41:37 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 1971 Cutlass ??? {WHAT IS IT?} - VIN decoding

>At any rate: the VIN is 3 3287 1Z102305   (Note that the eight is
>squished, resembling an upside-down skeleton keyhole)


3=Olds Division
32=Cutlass
87=Hardtop coupe
1=1971
Z=Fremont, CA plant
102305= plant sequence # starting with100001 (car # 2305)


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 17:53:25 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Question: Tilt Steering Wobble Side-to-Side

Brent,
     Haven't pulled them while it was in the car, but I know that on the newer
columns (I assume after about '73) you don't have to pull the pins to tighten
them. Yes, if it was in the car, I can see where it would be difficult! : )  I
looked in my nuts and bolts can (every good garage should have one) and found
one that threaded into the pin. I believe it's somewhere around 10-32. I took
a few washers, a nut, and used an open end wrench that had an opening bigger
than the head of the pivot pin, but was smaller than the diameter of the
washer. I threaded the nut on the bolt, put the washer(s) on, then threaded
the assembly into the pin. Put the open end "around" the head of the pin, and
tighten the nut with a wrench. be a little careful, don't want to break the
bolt off in the pin, but I was using brass bolts, and when they broke, they
didn't break in the pin, and they came right out. Hope this helps out, Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 18:55:45 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: 75 H/O hood (fwd)

This was sent to me personally, respond to gnfreak@earthlink.net if you
can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Keith B. Lacombe <gnfreak@earthlink.net>
Subject: 75 H/O hood

hey greg. was wondering if you knew of someone w/ a 75 H/O hood  a
bro-in-law's nephew bounced a deer off of his the other nite Any help is
appreciated.

Thanks in advance, Keith LaCombe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 18:29:47 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@viperlink.net>
Subject: Re: Window Tint

JonKrisInc@aol.com wrote:

> How would you like to be a cop stopping a car with a would-be felon with dark
> tinted windows?  How would you like to be an innocent driver of a car with
> dark tinted windows and have a nervous cop with a gun approaching you.
> Frankly, I don't have a problem with those regulations. (besides, if you have
> a cool car, don't you want everyone to know its YOU?)

In South Carolina, the legal limit is %20 (of the light allowed in).  I
can see where this would be an advantage to law enforcement, but at the
same time, to me, that is light..  Or just the tip of dark anyways...  I
feel that anything higher, why bother, it's too light...  My previous
car had 20% on the front door windows, and -10% (Standard Limo Tint,
meaning almost painted black) on the rear window, and both side (opera)
windows...  I liked this very much, but I can tell you from experience,
the $400 dollar ticket the current owner just shelled out also makes it
not worth it (seeing as I paid $100 total job, cash, no reciept <EG>).
This is why my Cutlass has no tint...  Why bother to tint the windows if
I can't make them black...  Who cares if people can't see me, all they
know is someone in an Olds just whooped their butt.
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 19:26:30, -0500
From: LCXH14A@prodigy.com (DAD ANDREW - MELI)
Subject: Re: Octane for 455

There is a lead substitute that will lub your your
engine just like lead but there's harmfull afects.
Its a 12 ounce to 20 gal. tank.i wish i could help
you with the name.    good luck Andy.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 19:34:42 EDT
From: <DiscoOzzy@aol.com>
Subject: headers

I have a new pair of Mr. G headers for an Olds TA. Hooker shows the same part
number for TA and 68-77 Cutlass headers, so if anyone has a Summit catalog, I
can give you the part number for the G's and you can check for youself for
what they fit. Or anyone here has a 403 TA that needs headers can let me know.
You can buy these things new all day for less than $120, so I'm not lookin to
get rich here, I'm just trying to sell 'em. Make an offer and pay shipping.
peace
kerry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 19:36:06 EDT
From: <DiscoOzzy@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Octane for 455

In a message dated 6/24/98 11:28:04 PM !!!First Boot!!!, LCXH14A@prodigy.com
writes:

> There is a lead substitute that will lub your your
>  engine just like lead but there's harmfull afects.
>  Its a 12 ounce to 20 gal. tank.i wish i could help
>  you with the name.    good luck Andy.
>

would it be "Instead o'Lead", by Bardahl? or is it Gunk? oh hell, peace,
Kerry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 16:45:34 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: RE: Backspacing

Offset is the difference between the centerline of the wheel and the
mounting pad.  Positive offset has the pad outward from the centerline,
negative is inward.  Backspacing is the difference between the back edge of
the wheel and the mounting pad.  This says to me that backspacing + offset
= half the width of the wheel.  In the case of the GN example you gave, it
would be 4 in - 3mm = 3.5 inches, which doesn't add up.  Perhaps there's
something in there to account for the thickness of the mounting pad?

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

- ----------
From:  Thomas Martin[SMTP:Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com]
Sent:  Wednesday, June 24, 1998 1:39 PM
To:  'olds'
Subject:  Backspacing

What is the difference between backspacing and offset?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 18:43:07 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Borla mufflers

My dad's got a Borla system (including muffler) on his Grand Cherokee.  Yes,
it's not an Olds, but the sound is nice and throaty.  Not too loud, but you
can certainly tell it from other Grand Cherokees.  I'd predict similar
results for an Oldsmobile.

My vote: Borla stuff is expensive but worth it.  Like the saying goes: you
get what you pay for...and that goes both ways (usually).

Jason Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock/

- -----Original Message-----
From: hitson@leadbelt.com <hitson@leadbelt.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, June 24, 1998 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: Borla mufflers


>>What is anyone's opinion <snipped>
>>
>That's all you'll get from me -- opinion. I looked into Borlas. Great idea
>--stainless steel. Pricey. Can't see paying for stainless mufflers unless
>getting whole stainless exhaust system --- very pricey -- and simply not
>avail for all apps.                                              ^^^^^^^
>
>.02
>roger hitson
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 18:56:38 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Lockup rear brakes on G-Body

Yep, I agree...  :-)

My dad had a '92 Mustang and one time in a panic stop, the fronts locked,
but the rear's did not (disc/drum setup).  I have no explanation for this,
but I'm sure that the rears did not.  This was confirmed when we got home
and found no flat spots on the rears (but did on the fronts).

Both sides of my rear axle seem to lock in unison when the time comes (like
when a buck jumps out into the road so he can read your license plate...
;-0

Jason Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock/

- -----Original Message-----
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, June 23, 1998 6:20 PM
Subject: Re: Lockup rear brakes on G-Body


>Brakes are funny...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 19:52:01 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: VIN decoding

Angel, it's an '84 Ciera wagon with a 181 cui. 2-bbl V6 engine.

A is actually for "Active Belts" (non-motorized).
J is for Ciera LS
35 is for the station wagon body style
E is for the V6 enigne
5 is the check digit
E is for the 1984 model year
D says it was made in Doraville, GA

Hope this helps...

Jason Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock/

- -----Original Message-----
From: Angel Castrodad <angleki@prtc.net>
To: Oldsmobile list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, June 22, 1998 8:30 AM
Subject: VIN decoding


>Recently, someone posted the URL for a VIN decoding engine. I'm in need of
>that address right now. I'm about to help a friend work on his Ciera wagon
>and need to know some of the VIN info. Just in case anyone can help me with
>it, here it is:  1G3AJ35E5ED352370. Can anyone tell me what engine the car
>has and its year? That is the only info missing on the Chilton's. I know
1G3
>is Olds, A is Ciera, J is Ciera LS (?), from there on I know nothing except
>the last six numbers.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 18:59:04 -0500
From: glgillum <glgillum@mci2000.com>
Subject: 69 Cutlass dash

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I have a 69 Olds Cutlass convertible with some damage to my speedo cable =
from contact with the exhaust pipe.  Does anyone know how to disconnect =
the end from the speedometer?  Do you have to remove the dash?  If so, =
how?  I can't see how to remove the dash.  Any help would be =
appreciated.

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have a 69 Olds Cutlass convertible =
with some=20
damage to my speedo cable from contact with the exhaust pipe.&nbsp; Does =
anyone=20
know how to disconnect the end from the speedometer?&nbsp; Do you have =
to remove=20
the dash?&nbsp; If so, how?&nbsp; I can't see how to remove the =
dash.&nbsp; Any=20
help would be appreciated.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_00BD_01BD9FA2.2860E900--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 17:30:40 -0700
From: Eric Spence <ericsp@mail.ocis.net>
Subject: Re: runs too rich, too stupid question???

You can check your vacuum hoses.  Get some quick start (ether based) and with
the car running, spray it on the vacuum lines.  If the idle changes, you have
a leak in the spot you are spraying.  Check your air/fuel mixture screws at
the base of the carb. Turn them one at a time in and out and set them for the
best fast idle.  Not ffamililular with the car, but this may not work if it
automaticly compensates the idle.  When everything else fails, take it to a
shop with a computer and have them do a diagnostic report.  Depending on
where you are, this may run $30-50, but may find the problem faster.

Mike Rothe. wrote:

> > just wondering why nobody responded to my following post!? Please HELP!
>
> > Fist of all: sorry for asking about a Lin***n on this list but I am
> > really kind of hopeless...
> >
> > My Lincoln (V8 460) runs much too rich and I can't figure out what the
> > problem is. The whole emmission control is vacuum controlled...
>
> I wonder also.  Maybe no one here knows anything about them?  I sure
> don't.  But you might try to check all your vacuum lines for loose,
> broken/cracked conditions.  Also, the carb calibrations may be hosed.
> Is this thing using a FoMoCo carb or a holley?  Tweak your carb idle
> screws somewhat and see if this doesn't help.  Also, your choke may be
> sticking shut, ensure it's free operation.  Could also be a mis-adjusted
> float setting.  Too high, and you get bleedover/richness.
>
> Just some shots in the dark.  Now you KNOW why you should just stick to
> Oldsmobile  ;-)  To all you young'ns out there, take heed.  See the
> problems you have with anything other than OLDS???  Sorry George, I
> can't help myself.....nothing personal.
>
> Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 20:22:42, -0500
From: GQPR12E@prodigy.com ( CLAYTON PIERCE)
Subject: re: making olds into sportscar vs. buyin

>Kinda funny story, a few months back when I was looking for a new
>vehicle, I was checking out a 97 Blazer.  V6, OD, 4WD, blah,blah...
it
>got approx 21 mpg highway.  Sitting right next to it was a 96 WS-6
>Firebird, it got approx 26mpg highway.  Go figure, that monster v8
>sipping fuel more efficently than the v6 in the Blazer....but of
course
>the Blazer will hold a little bit more, not to mention stay on the
road
>in the winter.

Actually, in the world of large cars/trucks, 6's rarely beat 8's in
gas mileage... look at the Cutlass... my buddy had a 231 V6 in an '83
and was getting apx. 15 mpg, he swapped a 307 into it... and viola...
20 mpg... that lil' '6 was just straining to even haul that big car
around.  Don't you often get better mileage with a slightly built
motor (makes better use of available resources) than a stock one,
while at the same time getting more power!

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
GQPR12E@Prodigy.com

1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k
miles)
1980 Rover 3500 SD1 (215 V8, FI, 85k miles)
1965 Pontiac Bonneville Hardtop Coupe (389, 4bbl, TH400, 100k miles)
Look ma' no EGR!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 20:58:19 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Greg's Need for Speed

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gregory Zimmerman <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
To: Olds list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, June 23, 1998 9:53 AM
Subject: making olds into sportscar vs. buying one


>
>I've been loosing sleep over this for days, and it's killing me.
>
<snip the confessions of a tortured soul>

Hey Greg - maybe a bike is the ticket. Go fast, reasonable gas mileage,
affordable insurance. Could keep the Olds too.

I've been through a similar dilemma over the years with my motorcycle. It's
a '75 Norton Commando 850. I bought it new and kept it showroom condition
for over 20 years. Does the 1/4 in 12.5 sec, 0-60 in 4.1 sec, gets 50 mpg
and cost $150 a year to insure. Makes a nice noise too.

My choices back then included the Kawasaki 903 Z1- the fastest bike ever
made (at the time). Took a lot of soul searching to decide. I finally chose
handling and style over pure performance. Next year Kawasaki came out with
the 1000, next year an 1100, then a turbo....and they never stopped making
faster ones. Speed quest is a disease.

By today's standards my Norton is a slug. Wouldn't dare go up against the
Jap pocket-rockets. But this ol' Brit has ~SO~ much class. People bring over
the cameras when ever I go to a meet. And a Kaw Z1 ain't worth 100 bucks
today, whereas the Norton is worth twice what I paid for it.

Bottom line: If going fast is all you really want, it may be time to move
on. But be prepared to do it again next year.

peace

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 21:03:01 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: KREEN

>
>> Internal Engine Cleaner - Improves Performance
>> Guaranteed to improve your engines [sic] performance. When added to
>> either the gas or oil, of your engine,

Guaranteed not to rust, bust, collect dust, crack, chip, dent or peel.
Got a bridge they wanna sell ya too.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 21:28:59 EDT
From: <Cnvrt67@aol.com>
Subject: 72 idle speed and sport wheel q

what should the idle speed of a 72 c/s convertible with a 350 4bbl and dual
exhausts be????

also my dad just had his sprot wheel put on his car. the only problem is that
we cant get the horn button on the wheel the correct way. the rocket emblem is
upside down. we cant figure out how to get it on right side up. so what do we
do the get the button on the correct way???? help is appreciated

Thanks

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 20:27:07 -0400
From: "Howard Tarnoff" <tarnoffh@norfolk-county.com>
Subject: 36 olds for sale

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BD9FAE.755D0C00
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

A former coworker of mine has accepted a new postion
and is moving from MA to CO.

He sent me this email:


	
Know anyone that may be interested in a perfect 'parts' car or a project
car?  I am not going to move the 1936 Olds to CO.  Instead, I am going to
dump it.  Only asking $500, but it has to be gone in the next two to three
weeks!


Four Door Touring Sedan
Straight Eight Engine
Body is Solid, attached to frame.
Tires still hold air.
At one time, whe my Dad purchased the vehicle, it was about 80-90% restored
with all original components.  Since then, rubber and fabric has dry
rotted,
metal has corroded, but is is still in fine shape.  It is currently in
several large pieces in my garage - Body (on Frame), Fenders, Doors Quarter
Panels, Engine, Trans, Hood, Running board, definitely rollable.
I also have the shop manual, the compatibility manual, original sales
literature and paint chips that I will let go with car.

If anyone is interested thay can email to:
cdlar@tiac.net
I

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BD9FAE.755D0C00
Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF"><p><font size=3D2 =
color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Arial">A former coworker of mine has accepted =
a new postion<br>and is moving from MA to CO.<br><br>He sent me this =
email:<br><br><br>&#009;<br>Know anyone that may be interested in a =
perfect 'parts' car or a project<br>car? &nbsp;I am not going to move =
the 1936 Olds to CO. &nbsp;Instead, I am going to<br>dump it. &nbsp;Only =
asking $500, but it has to be gone in the next two to =
three<br>weeks!<br><br><br>Four Door Touring Sedan <br>Straight Eight =
Engine<br>Body is Solid, attached to frame. &nbsp;<br>Tires still hold =
air.<br>At one time, whe my Dad purchased the vehicle, it was about =
80-90% restored<br>with all original components. &nbsp;Since then, =
rubber and fabric has dry rotted,<br>metal has corroded, but is is still =
in fine shape. &nbsp;It is currently in<br>several large pieces in my =
garage - Body (on Frame), Fenders, Doors Quarter<br>Panels, Engine, =
Trans, Hood, Running board, definitely rollable.<br>I also have the shop =
manual, the compatibility manual, original sales<br>literature and paint =
chips that I will let go with car. &nbsp;<br><br>If anyone is interested =
thay can email to:<br>cdlar@tiac.net<br>I<br><br></p>
</font></body></html>
- ------=_NextPart_000_01BD9FAE.755D0C00--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 21:48:28 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Computer Controls (was Backfires)

...  So with a E4MC car, you can disconnect EGR
>with not much penalty?  If any?

Only one posting I've seen here where someone claimed the 307 actually ran
better with the EGR - most people seem to prefer it disconnected.

>I know the 85 G-Body 307 powered cars
>do not have ESC, has anyone ever messed with adding it?  The pins are
>not used on the ECM.  Can I hook the ESC unit from a V6 Cutlass, and
>wire it in with the appropriate V8 sensor?

Probably. But wouldn't that change other things like timing advance?

>Is there any programming on the PROM for ESC or is it purely an external
>affair like my 80 Turbo Trans AM.

Schematics show the knock sensor goes direct to the ESC and not the ECM.

>Thomas Martin


Tom - maybe you can't see the forest thru the trees. You have a 350, and the
computer still thinks you have a 307. The ECM controls timing, EGR, and TCC
as a function of throttle position, manifold vacuum, road speed and engine
rpm. All those relationships are different with the new motor. Maybe all
your problems would go away if you got a custom PROM chip.

my 2 cents anyway

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 22:02:25 -0400
From: dave <dave70ss@ici.net>
Subject: 71 info

the taillights for a 71 cutlass supreme convertible
should be 1 unit as apposed to the 72 with 3 sections
is this correct? Are all 71 taillights the same? 4 door - hardtop -
convertible?
Will a 71 4 door front fender fit on a 71 convertible?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 22:09:05 EDT
From: <Surmise@aol.com>
Subject: making an olds into a sportscar or buying one

My current project is building a good performing daily drive from my 67 442
convert.
Having owned "real sportcars, both a Austin Healey 3000 and Bug Eye Sprite I'm
not as interested in the "authentic" sportcar as when I was young.  Defiantly
looking for something more comfortable and a bit more refined and it must have
A/C in Oklahoma (101 F today).  We drove a 300Z, great ride and refined, but
is this a sportscar?  Not a in my opinion.  Part of the mystic of owning a
sportscar is working on it, or at least understanding what is under the hood.
To me a
sportscar requires a certain amount of finesse to get it to peak performance
both mechanical and driving skills.  While my muscle car will accelerate, dive
into corners, and hopefully stop equally well it will never be a true
sportscar, even with unlimited modifications.  It will be an Olds muscle car
that handles better than it did off the show room floor.  So I guess my
question is what does a sportscar mean to you... and then does it make more
sense to build an Olds into that idea or buy
the sportscar.  Just think our kids may soon be asking themselves if they can
get the elcar (electric car to perform like an oil sucker).

And that day will be sooner than we think.  So... enjoyed the ride now...

John
Surmise@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 20:20:56 -0600
From: patling <patling@swbell.net>
Subject: What tranny?

Looking for an automatic transmission for a 72 Olds Cutlass.  Has a 403
cu engine.
Any suggestions as to what I should look for?
Thanks Bo

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 21:42:56 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: 71 info

All of the '71 tail-lenses for cutlass and 442 are "single", while '72
has the divided ones.

- -greg

- -----Original Message-----
From: dave <dave70ss@ici.net>
To: olds <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, June 24, 1998 10:06 PM
Subject: 71 info


>the taillights for a 71 cutlass supreme convertible
>should be 1 unit as apposed to the 72 with 3 sections
>is this correct? Are all 71 taillights the same? 4 door - hardtop -
>convertible?
>Will a 71 4 door front fender fit on a 71 convertible?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 21:44:11 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: 72 idle speed and sport wheel q

Depends if it's an auto or manual.  My '71 cutlass 350 four barrel is
supposed to idle at 600rpms in drive.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Cnvrt67@aol.com <Cnvrt67@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, June 24, 1998 9:32 PM
Subject: 72 idle speed and sport wheel q


>what should the idle speed of a 72 c/s convertible with a 350 4bbl
and dual
>exhausts be????
>>Brent
>1967 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 22:38:42 -0400
From: Jim & Jo Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 71 info

        THe answer to all your questions is YES!

Jim Chermack

At 10:02 PM 6/24/1998 -0400, you wrote:
>the taillights for a 71 cutlass supreme convertible
>should be 1 unit as apposed to the 72 with 3 sections
>is this correct? Are all 71 taillights the same? 4 door - hardtop -
>convertible?
>Will a 71 4 door front fender fit on a 71 convertible?
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 19:32:11 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: What tranny?

At 08:20 PM 6/24/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Looking for an automatic transmission for a 72 Olds Cutlass.  Has a 403
>cu engine.
>Any suggestions as to what I should look for?
>Thanks Bo
>

I'd go the easy route, a BOP pattern T350.
this is most likely what was in it to start with.
__
The old adage about "The early bird catches the worm", only serves
to prove, that the worm would have been better off if he stayed in bed .
                                                                :Lazarus Long

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 21:47:04 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Greg's Need for Speed

Thanks for the recommendation on getting a motorcycle....I already
have one!  A 1998 Honda VTR1000 Superhawk.  1000cc V-twin with 105
horsepower at the crank.  Riding the bike has me spoiled, and that's
why I want my car to go faster!

- -greg

- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave Cullen <david.cullen@snet.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, June 24, 1998 8:54 PM
Subject: Re: Greg's Need for Speed


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Gregory Zimmerman <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
>To: Olds list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: Tuesday, June 23, 1998 9:53 AM
>Subject: making olds into sportscar vs. buying one
>
>
>>
>>I've been loosing sleep over this for days, and it's killing me.
>>
><snip the confessions of a tortured soul>
>
>Hey Greg - maybe a bike is the ticket. Go fast, reasonable gas
mileage,
>affordable insurance. Could keep the Olds too.
>
>I've been through a similar dilemma over the years with my
motorcycle. It's
>a '75 Norton Commando 850. I bought it new and kept it showroom
condition
>for over 20 years. Does the 1/4 in 12.5 sec, 0-60 in 4.1 sec, gets 50
mpg
>and cost $150 a year to insure. Makes a nice noise too.
>
>My choices back then included the Kawasaki 903 Z1- the fastest bike
ever
>made (at the time). Took a lot of soul searching to decide. I finally
chose
>handling and style over pure performance. Next year Kawasaki came out
with
>the 1000, next year an 1100, then a turbo....and they never stopped
making
>faster ones. Speed quest is a disease.
>
>By today's standards my Norton is a slug. Wouldn't dare go up against
the
>Jap pocket-rockets. But this ol' Brit has ~SO~ much class. People
bring over
>the cameras when ever I go to a meet. And a Kaw Z1 ain't worth 100
bucks
>today, whereas the Norton is worth twice what I paid for it.
>
>Bottom line: If going fast is all you really want, it may be time to
move
>on. But be prepared to do it again next year.
>
>peace
>
>drc
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 21:53:11 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: What tranny?

First choice, buy my TH-350 that I'm selling.  $225  located in
Washington D.C.
Second, get a mail-order, high performance TH-200R4 overdrive.  Cost:
$1500 with converter and wires, etc.
Third, get a mail-order, high perf. TH-700R4: same price, but you need
to shorten your driveshaft and redrill the tranny crossmember.

Do what I'm going to do some day, put in a Richmond 6 speed manual:
Cost, around $4000.

- -greg

- -----Original Message-----
From: patling <patling@swbell.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, June 24, 1998 10:13 PM
Subject: What tranny?


>Looking for an automatic transmission for a 72 Olds Cutlass.  Has a
403
>cu engine.
>Any suggestions as to what I should look for?
>Thanks Bo

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 22:59:30 EDT
From: <JohnMonnin@aol.com>
Subject: Re: headers

In a message dated 98-06-24 19:38:01 EDT, you write:

<<  I have a new pair of Mr. G headers for an Olds TA. Hooker shows the same
part
 number for TA and 68-77 Cutlass headers.  You can buy these things new all
day for less than $120, so I'm not lookin to get rich here, I'm just trying to
sell 'em. Make an offer and pay shipping. >>

What is the part number? Will 403 headers fit a 350?  I just bought a set of
exhaust manifolds but if the price is right I would be interested in headers
for my 350 69 Cutlass.

John Monnin

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 23:00:46 -0400
From: Jim & Jo Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Engine Rebuilding (long)

To List,

        I have been going though the process of rebuilding my 67 W-30
engine. Lots of money in all the good pieces and supposedly good machine
work. I want to throw this out in a word of caution and advice. I have spent
some major money on this deal and found out the original block is bad. Not
heartbraking but gets one pissed off. Having another block assm. done up now
by Danny Lattimore. He wanted the heads (to look at) and other related
pieces needed to balance the engine assm. Got the heads up to him today to
find out that the $700 I had invested in the heads was for naught. The valve
stem heights were all screwed up and the intake valves are now useless (new
Fararriea SP? stainless valves). This is by a master machinist that said
they were all set perfect. I know intake and exhaust will be slightly
different from each other respectively. We measured up to .055 difference
with just the intake valves. Not good with a non-adjustable valve train.
Danny now has more work to do with correcting the mess up by the first valve
job. Thereby costing me more money. $$$ What else is new. Here's my
recommendation. For anyone out there that is getting ready to put some good
money into an engine. Make the machinist SHOW you with a dial indicator at
the shop that they are all within .002 of each other. If not the valve job
was not preformed correctly and will lead to major problems now or later
with your valve train. He or she should have no problems if you drop by
during any of the process and ask them to show you in detail what they are
doing and show you how they know it's correct. I now have to question all
the other work done by the other machinist. So I basically threw money away.
I've done engines with other machinists and had very good results. This
gentleman came very highly recommended (and at least sounded like he knew
waht he was doing by the questions I asked when this all started) and now I
would be imbarassed to recommend him to anyone. Spend your money wisely and
make them show you what your getting. Take recommendations with caution and
do some research of your own.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 23:17:11 -0400
From: John <super442@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Late 120 speedo decals & new address

Hello everyone,
                     Anyone interested in a 120
mph decal for their late model rally pac,hit me
direct at my new address:  super442@bellsouth.net
                  Also,not sure about this new
setup,If my fonts,etc are too big or anything
somebody please let me know,but be nice.
               Thanks,John

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 23:22:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: Andrew Metcalfe <ametcalf@ccs.carleton.ca>
Subject: Turbo on 3.8V6

I've got the 3.8L V6 on my 86 Ciera GT.  I was wondering if it would be
very dificult to pull a turbo off a Grand National or Buick Regal and
throw it in there.

Is this the same 3.8L as they used in the Buicks?

Would the added torque fry my transmission?  What about the computer?
What'd I need to do to it?

Any help appreciated...

_Am

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 23:25:14 EDT
From: <OJUNEBUGGO@aol.com>
Subject: "Subscribe Oldsmobile"

"Subscribe Oldsmobile"

I would like more information on this club.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 23:25:57 -0400
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: 307 Vin 9

Message text written by Thomas Martin
>The 350 is closer related to the "9" HO 307 than the "Y" 307.  The "Y"
has lots of improvements like roller cam, full floating wrist pins, etc.
 The 442 engine does not. <<

I am confused.   I thought the 5A heads were regular cam, and the 7A heads
went with the roller cam.  Or is having the roller cam not dependent on the
heads???  I checked my 1987 Vin 9 307 in my 442 and it has 7A heads (I
purchased this vehicle new so I know it is original).

>> The 7A heads had the Tubular Steel
manifolds.  They flow about the same, but they have less flange material
and the opening will not match the older big ports.<<

My 7A heads have cast manifolds - although I see in the service manual it
shows different exhaust manifolds for the Vin Y and Vin 90.

I would like to answer the roller cam question once and for all.   Any
ideas????

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E & 4L60-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'96 DCM Impala SS   '87 Olds Cutlass 442   '95 Grand Prix

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 23:36:49 EDT
From: <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Disks in rear VS. Drum

In a message dated 98-06-23 17:06:08 EDT, you write:

<<  The front to back
      proportioning valve setting is key to the performance of the brakes. >>
2 things, 1 my brother has a 80TA w/ 4 wheel disks and his master has 2
different sizes. It looks just like my olds master cyl. And second if you add
an adjustable proport valve you will only be able to reduce the press to the
rear. You would have to remove the original and use just the adjustable if you
want to increase press. Now the question is Can that be done? I dont really
care about a brake light coming on after my foot has slammed the floor anyway.
SO can i take my proport valve out, tie the front in and out together with a
union and just use the adjustable one on the rear. This is what ive been
thinking i already bought the adjustable valve.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 20:46:14 PDT
From: "flynt myrick" <f_myrick@hotmail.com>
Subject: Oxygen sensor

List members,
   Is it true that oxygen sensors get "lazy" and need be replaced when
they have 50,000 or so miles on them?
   My mechanic informed me this was true and my 1986 Olds with the 307
V8 could benefit from a new oxygen sensor.  He said only use a GM
sensor.
   Any suggestions?

Flynt Myrick
f_myrick@hotmail.com
http://www.hotmail.com


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 23:46:33, -0500
From: GQPR12E@prodigy.com ( CLAYTON PIERCE)
Subject: RE: additives

RE: prolong,

Have heard from a number of people that I know and trust that it does
much good on a high-miles motor... good buddy said it did wonders on
his mother's tired V6, I have a little rule of thumb however, at
least for me... nothing but good fresh gas and decent brands of oil
touch any motor of mine with under 150k miles that is running strong..
. in other words... I wouldn't put this stuff in you new Shelby/Olds
:) but it might work wonders for that 300k miles '75 Delta 88 :)

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
GQPR12E@Prodigy.com

1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k
miles)
1980 Rover 3500 SD1 (215, FI, 85k miles)
1965 Pontiac Bonneville Hardtop Coupe (389,4bbl, TH400, 100k miles)  -
Look ma' no EGR

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 20:49:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joe Padavano <joe_padavano@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Dave Emanuel Relies

Hey gang,

Recall that I had fired off an email to Dave Emanuel, who authors the
Performance Clinic column in Muscle Car Review when, for the second issue in a
row, he made a major error concerning Olds motors.  In this particular case,
he was explaining the differences between 39 and 45 degree _CYLINDER BANK_
angles. Well, Dave actually responded to me personally.  His email follows:

>Electronic mail is a wonderful thing-- except when all the little
>electrons lose their marbles. You are correct, 39+39 does equal 78. I
>was talking about lifter bank angles, but the message was garbled and
>due to deadlines, I didn't see the printed reply before it appeared in
>the magazine. Sorry for the confusion. I'll try to clear things up in a
>future issue
>
>Dave Emanuel





_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 00:08:30 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: additives

I'll let you know in 20 years when my '75 Delta 88 might have 300,000
miles on it.

Mark Hahn
'75 Delta 88 Royale Conv.
as of today 134,503 miles

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 00:15:35 EDT
From: <OJUNEBUGGO@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Disks in rear VS. Drum

Humm... Dont know what to tell ya. Sound like you know what your doing, you
should have your own talk show! j/k! But more power to ya.


$Rog

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 00:22:16 -0400
From: "Gib Loudon" <cutlass@mill.tds.net>
Subject: Re: Oxygen sensor

Flynt,
Yes, that is true...Oxygen sensors go bad.....sometimes more often than
50,000 miles....If you own a Chevy Cavalier, Pontiac Sunbird, Olds Firenza,
or Buick Skyhawk....they need a new one every 10,000 miles....trust
me...I've owned 5 of these cars so far...but anyway....yes they need to be
replaced or your car will run like crap.

Hope this helps.

Gib.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 00:21:37 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: 307 Vin 9

> My 7A heads have cast manifolds - although I see in the service manual it
> shows different exhaust manifolds for the Vin Y and Vin 90.
>
> I would like to answer the roller cam question once and for all.   Any
> ideas????

Ya KNOW.....I think that the "later" 442 engines had the roller cam,
reason I say this, is because the aftermarket cams listed previously
came as roller or non roller for "9" listings.  Which would lead me to
believe the roller was used 86/87 years.  Just guessing, of course.  I
know the 87 I once had had 7A heads, and cast iron exhaust manifolds.
Come to think of it, so does my current 87 Cutlass Salon!!  Where do
they use these "tube" exhausts?  4 doors?  Don't know.  Must have been
cam, dist, and carb calibrations that make the difference between the
later Y and 9 engines.

I don't have anything newer than an 85 tech manual, where it DOES show
the difference....Y engines had roller, where "9" engines did not.  If
someone with an 86 or 87 service manual can check this out, we can put
this baby to bed.

2 cents into the ring.
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 00:23:49 EDT
From: <OJUNEBUGGO@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Oxygen sensor

Good question but cant help you there.


$RR

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 00:25:19 EDT
From: <OJUNEBUGGO@aol.com>
Subject: Re: additives

More power to you. I own a 72 cutlass.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 00:26:15 EDT
From: <OJUNEBUGGO@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Dave Emanuel Relies

Youve got an Eagle eye!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 00:26:52 EDT
From: <OJUNEBUGGO@aol.com>
Subject: Re: additives

ha..

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 23:37:09 +0600
From: grpruett@vt.edu (Greg Pruett )
Subject: Re: Disks in rear VS. Drum

>You would have to remove the original and use just the adjustable if you
>want to increase press. Now the question is Can that be done? I dont really
>care about a brake light coming on after my foot has slammed the floor anyway.
>SO can i take my proport valve out, tie the front in and out together with a
>union and just use the adjustable one on the rear. This is what ive been
>thinking i already bought the adjustable valve.

I think it'll work, don't know why it wouldn't. BTW if I remember correctly
some cars came with a seperate distribution block and proportion valve.  If
you could find one of thoes you could keep your brake light and splice in
the adjustable valve somewhere.  I agree with you on that brake light thing
though.....Oh, the brakes are out? NO SH*T!!!!!!! :)

That reminds me of a Mad magazine feature I read that was poking fun at GM.
(written some time in the 80's)  One of the drawings was of a horrified guy
behind the wheel watching a mushroom cloud rise from the hood of his car.
On the dashboard a light was flashing "THAR SHE BLOWS!"  Wish I still had a
copy of it...'bout busted a gut laughing.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 00:43:29 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: additives

Heck, when I blew a piston, I used old tranny fluid, and used motor oil. My
testimony is it worked great! : )

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 00:47:06 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 307 Vin 9

Mike said something about "tube" exhaust? I have an '86 Salon, that had the
original 307 in it. The manifolds were Stainless (don't know what else they
could have been), wanted to use them on the 403, but didn't quite fit. Would
these be the "tubular" ones you are talking about? Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 23:03:34 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Oxygen sensor

>    Is it true that oxygen sensors get "lazy" and need be replaced when
> they have 50,000

Partially true.  Yes, they do get lazy, and yes, "lazy" ~is~ actually the 
proper
term.  They generally cycle the signals several times a second.  The ECM sees
highs and lows constantly from the O2 sensor, and compensates accordingly.  I
believe the cutoff is ten cycles per second???  If it does not produce at least
that amount of cycles, it is termed as "lazy."  What ~causes~ this?  Mileage?
Hours?  Not really.  Some can die in 200 miles, and some can last >100K.  Fuel
additives (lead substitutes, contaminates, etc.) can form deposits on the O2
sensor.  Any silicon agents allowed into the combustion process will form
deposits, too.  Valve cover gaskets made from RTV, if not properly cured, can
contaminate an O2 sensor just from the vapors produced.  Smog conditions and
other environmental variables can also take their toll.  So, in some 
conditions,
yes, you can plan on changing that guy often.  In others, I'd not worry about
it.  Those mid 80's FWD GM's using that 4-Tech motor, for instance, I wouldn't
recommend changing the O2 sensor.  Odds are good it'll outlast the motor three
fold (or up to 50 miles, which ever comes first!)  I've ~never~ seen one of
those over 60K miles that didn't knock like.. umm..  Trick or Treaters?  
(Having
troubles with a good analogy...)  A

Anyway, a decent scan tool can measure the cycles of the oxygen sensor.  I 
think
GM's Tech-1 had that capability.  Not sure about the OTC-2000 series.  Been
awhile.  I don't think it could, but newer updates probably have that function.
OBDII scanners should be able to, if programmed for the OBDI systems.
- --
The Oldsmobile Magnet -- Charley Buehner@Sidney Montana
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com or mailto:charley@rocketship.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner  -- Oldsmagnet Homepage
OldsList Vital Info: http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 01:27:01 EDT
From: <DiscoOzzy@aol.com>
Subject: Re: headers

In a message dated 6/25/98 3:02:01 AM !!!First Boot!!!, JohnMonnin@aol.com
writes:

>
>  What is the part number? Will 403 headers fit a 350?  I just bought a set
of
>  exhaust manifolds but if the price is right I would be interested in
headers
>  for my 350 69 Cutlass.

The only number I can find is something that looks like 030 or 03J (I can't
tell) on both collectors. If you have a Summit Catalog, it might tell, Jegs
and ASAP (RIP) say nothing about Mr. G.  or what they fit.
Kerry

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 01:29:30 EDT
From: <OJUNEBUGGO@aol.com>
Subject: Re: headers

sorry cant help you there!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 22:29:38 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuilding (long)

Jim & Jo Chermack wrote:

> To List,
>
>         I have been going though the process of rebuilding my 67 W-30
> engine. Lots of money in all the good pieces and supposedly good machine
> work. I want to throw this out in a word of caution and advice. I have spent
> some major money on this deal and found out the original block is bad. Not
> heartbraking but gets one pissed off. Having another block assm. done up now
> by Danny Lattimore. He wanted the heads (to look at) and other related
> pieces needed to balance the engine assm. Got the heads up to him today to
> find out that the $700 I had invested in the heads was for naught. The valve
> stem heights were all screwed up and the intake valves are now useless (new
> Fararriea SP? stainless valves). This is by a master machinist that said
> they were all set perfect. I know intake and exhaust will be slightly
> different from each other respectively. We measured up to .055 difference
> with just the intake valves. Not good with a non-adjustable valve train.
> Danny now has more work to do with correcting the mess up by the first valve
> job. Thereby costing me more money. $$$ What else is new. Here's my
> recommendation. For anyone out there that is getting ready to put some good
> money into an engine. Make the machinist SHOW you with a dial indicator at
> the shop that they are all within .002 of each other. If not the valve job
> was not preformed correctly and will lead to major problems now or later
> with your valve train. He or she should have no problems if you drop by
> during any of the process and ask them to show you in detail what they are
> doing and show you how they know it's correct. I now have to question all
> the other work done by the other machinist. So I basically threw money away.
> I've done engines with other machinists and had very good results. This
> gentleman came very highly recommended (and at least sounded like he knew
> waht he was doing by the questions I asked when this all started) and now I
> would be imbarassed to recommend him to anyone. Spend your money wisely and
> make them show you what your getting. Take recommendations with caution and
> do some research of your own.
>
> Jim Chermack

Jim,
Sorry to hear of your problem with another "machinist" being clueless when it
comes to setting valve stem heights on an Olds engine (Or for that matter, any
other engine with non adjustable rockers).  Having been a machinist for many
years myself, I've always been simply amazed at how many professional engine
builders overlook this critical step.
To avoid this situation, list readers should beware of machine shops who give
you a puzzled look when you ask them to BE SURE the stem heights are set (Or 
at
least equalized).  For proper valve train geometry and lifter function this 
step
can make a night and day difference in how your Rocket performs.  In addition,
improper stem heights will lead to broken parts and premature wear on valve
guides, stems and tips.
Jim, I've seen your previous postings regarding Danny Lattimore's knowledge of
Oldsmobile engines.  And what he has been able to do with NHRA stock eliminator
4-4-2's.  Sounds like you've taken your Rocket to the right place.  Many 
machine
shops may have a good reputation for their performance Chevy engines, but have
little experience with how to make an Olds engine perform and live.
Sorry to hear of your $$$ loss.  But I'm glad you made a point of bringing this
to the attention of the List.

- --
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 23:51:10 -0600
From: Charley Buehner <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Summit Gaskets

Perusing through a recent Summit Racing Catalog, they show a listing for 
Fel-Pro
gasket sets.  To my suprise, they actually advertise an Olds set.  Get this,
it's the very first on the list, and its: 1965-67 425!!!  How's that for a
shock!  Want ~more~???  That text box states, and I ~quote~ "We also stock
gasket sets for Chevy, Olds, Pontiac, and Buick.  If you don't see your
application, please call."  It's a 1/4 page spot, and doesn't list a single
ch*vy application!  Wow!  Want ~more~???  The kits include head, valve cover,
timing cover, pan, intake, exhaust, water pump, water neck, and fuel pump
gaskets.  The Olds kit sells for $47.69.  Footnote at bottom (**) intake gasket
not included.  Only one application had the ** on it.  It ~wasn't~ on the 
Olds!
Wow!  Might have to put a paper clip on that page!

The Oldsmobile Magnet -- Charley Buehner@Sidney Montana
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com or mailto:charley@rocketship.com
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner  -- Oldsmagnet Homepage
OldsList Vital Info: http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 02:48:52 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Summit Gaskets

>  Footnote at bottom (**) intake gasket
>not included.  Only one application had the ** on it.  It ~wasn't~ on the
Olds!

I just bought the Fel-Pro set from Summit last week (part # FEL-KS2613) and
it does NOT come with an intake gasket.

You're still going to have to fork out another $23 to $29.00 (depending on
motor and year) for a Fel-Pro Valley Pan or $16.00 bucks for a Mr.Gasket
composite intake gasket.

Just a warning.

Mr. Gasket engine overhaul kit is $27.99, part #7140, also has  everything
but intake gasket. Is Fel-Pro $20.00 better? I thought the intake gasket was
included with the Fel-Pro set or I would have used the Mr. G set again. I
haven't had any problems with the Mr. G set on my 350. I not questioning
Fel-Pro quality, I've used them allot, just the price difference.

Randy

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1328
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