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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1398


oldsmobile-digest        Friday, July 31 1998        Volume 01 : Number 1398



Re: is the pre-luber worth it?
New Olsmobilia purchase
OPC Racing This Weekend
[none]
Re: Rocket Talk
Re: is the pre-luber worth it?
Re: Chrome and rust spots
Re: New Olsmobilia purchase
Re: is the pre-luber worth it?
Re: Holley carb power valve
Re: Master cyl bore size??new style master,long
Re:
Re: OPC Racing This Weekend
Re: Tuning Q-Jet
Re: is the pre-luber worth it?
Re: Olds History Center Address
Re: I need some opinions on stripe color
Re: Macungie, PA
Re: Fastball video.
CLOSED
Re: Engine Oil Analysis
Re: Engine Oil Analysis
Re: New Olsmobilia purchase
Re: is the pre-luber worth it?
re: Stan and my 75 Omega
Re: TH-2004R Durability - A Response from Art Carr
Oldsmobilia Question
Re: '76/'77 Cutlass/Regal door swap
Re: New Olsmobilia purchase
Re: Engine Oil Analysis
Re: Oldsmobilia Question
Fuel_line_material
UNBOUNCE: Fuel Line Material
Re: need dipstick help
Clear Coating Question
Watch
poncho list
Re: is the pre-luber worth it?
Re: Stan and my 75 Omega
Re: UNBOUNCE: Fuel Line Material
Re: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke
Thinking about some G-body modifications (1985 Cutlass Supreme)... <long>
Re: Clear Coating Question
Re: is the pre-luber worth it?
RE: Thinking about some G-body modifications (1985 Cutlass Suprem e)... <long>
RE: Clear Coating Question
about your web site
Re: Clear Coating Question
RE: How do I set up a Holley 3310?
interchangeability of 66-67 and 69
RE: RE: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke
Hot Rod does Olds... Finally....!
sorry not olds related but important
Goat`Cha
Re: interchangeability of 66-67 and 69
Re: Goat`Cha

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 18:52:29 PDT
From: "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: is the pre-luber worth it?

>its just for start ups ,its in summit if you want too look at it

it semms like i sould work but ,dose it help anuf to pay $450 for it?


>do you mean an oil accumulator this is a little dohickey that holds a
quart
>of oil under pressure that is injected into the engine in the event of
an
>oil pump failure or is this just a pressurized device that injects oil
into
>the engine just at startup?
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Ryan D <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: Thursday, July 30, 1998 5:02 PM
>Subject: is the pre-luber worth it?
>
>
>>Hey all,
>>    im going to be rebuilding a 69 olds 455,and is it worth the
$439.99
>>to put a pre-luber on it? i have herd yes ,and iv herd no,
>>so i figerd i would ask the guys that new best ,and its alot of dowe
to
>>put out for something that mite not work.
>>so if anybody has something that mite help me out ,plese email me.
>>
>>Thanks
>>      Ryan.
>>
>>
>>  My  -------   -------
>>            /  |
>>           /   |
>>          /     ------
>>         /            |
>>        /             |
>>       /        ------    DELTA 88
>>Ryan D Beck
>>           Riviera72sss@hotmail.com
>>
>>
>>______________________________________________________
>>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 20:10:49 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: New Olsmobilia purchase

Just ran across some really good information...  And as a result, it sounds 
like
(not 100% confirmed yet but 95% at least) I'll be getting a new model (plastic)
soon...  The infamous Hurst Hairy Olds  :)  Wahoo!!!   Still unopenned...  
Kinda
excited.  I gotta get going though, supposed to be on the road already.  Just
wanted to share my cool news with everyone before I left.  Still not sure 
~what~
I'll do with it, though.  Part of me want's to leave it sealed, but other
parts...  wanna play!!!!  Ooh, getting excited :)

Catch ya all later (and have fun in Rocket Talk!)

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 22:31:03 -0400
From: "John Gill" <jgill@idmi.com>
Subject: OPC Racing This Weekend

For those attending the Olds Performance Chapter Meet this weekend, do we
expect a good turnout for racing?  I called Carol Hosey of the OPC and she
said that a non-sponsored racing would be in Xenia, OH on Saturday nite,
about 1/2 hr from show site at Kil-Kare.  This is off state route 35, off
of Interstate 675.

John

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 22:28:11 -0400
From: "Roger Nienberg" <s002rwn@discover.wright.edu>
Subject: [none]

Can someone tell me the address of phone number of that one place that can
give you all sorts of information on your oldsmobile for like 10 bucks.


Roger Nienberg
69' Cutlass S
90' Camaro RS

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 19:30:00 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Rocket Talk

At 06:25 PM 7/30/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Well, folks,  Another Rocket Talk night, but I'm afraid I won't be able to be
>there...  I'm hoping to ~hear~ about all the rest of you there, though.
I'll be
>on the road to Havre, and don't have a laptop...  Which is probably good,
'cuz
>the Cellular bill would kill me, and I'd probably hit the ditch every time I
>fell over laughing.....

You have to stop for gas at some point.  :)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 19:22:53 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: is the pre-luber worth it?

dont know if I'd pay 439.99 for it looks like a simple electric pump
could probably make it for about fifty bucks wouldnt pay that price
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ryan D <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, July 30, 1998 6:53 PM
Subject: Re: is the pre-luber worth it?


>
>>its just for start ups ,its in summit if you want too look at it
>
>it semms like i sould work but ,dose it help anuf to pay $450 for it?
>
>
>>do you mean an oil accumulator this is a little dohickey that holds a
>quart
>>of oil under pressure that is injected into the engine in the event of
>an
>>oil pump failure or is this just a pressurized device that injects oil
>into
>>the engine just at startup?
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Ryan D <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
>>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>>Date: Thursday, July 30, 1998 5:02 PM
>>Subject: is the pre-luber worth it?
>>
>>
>>>Hey all,
>>>    im going to be rebuilding a 69 olds 455,and is it worth the
>$439.99
>>>to put a pre-luber on it? i have herd yes ,and iv herd no,
>>>so i figerd i would ask the guys that new best ,and its alot of dowe
>to
>>>put out for something that mite not work.
>>>so if anybody has something that mite help me out ,plese email me.
>>>
>>>Thanks
>>>      Ryan.
>>>
>>>
>>>  My  -------   -------
>>>            /  |
>>>           /   |
>>>          /     ------
>>>         /            |
>>>        /             |
>>>       /        ------    DELTA 88
>>>Ryan D Beck
>>>           Riviera72sss@hotmail.com
>>>
>>>
>>>______________________________________________________
>>>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>>
>>
>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 19:24:43 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Chrome and rust spots

try that rust avenger pen at your local parts store then seal the chips with
paint...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: krzy4evr@usit.net <krzy4evr@usit.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, July 30, 1998 6:26 PM
Subject: Chrome and rust spots


Howdy list.......
        To make this Olds related, I just found some small rust spots
on my 442 SSiii wheels. I need to know the cure-all remedy for
getting rid of this rust before it goes cancerous..!! Private replies
will be greatly appreciated...!!!

Mike......
Ironto VA
'86 442
'86 Supreme
'71 Monte
'54 Ex wife
'84 daughter
'70 employment with railroad
'70 diploma Andrew Lewis High School-Salem, VA
'52 birth certificate (my own)
'98 Six pack of George Killians Irish Red

I'll leave with "yall" with that................................!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 19:25:48 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: New Olsmobilia purchase

what fun is it in a box????????...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
To: Oldsmobile Mailing List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, July 30, 1998 7:11 PM
Subject: New Olsmobilia purchase


>Just ran across some really good information...  And as a result, it sounds
like
>(not 100% confirmed yet but 95% at least) I'll be getting a new model
(plastic)
>soon...  The infamous Hurst Hairy Olds  :)  Wahoo!!!   Still unopenned...
Kinda
>excited.  I gotta get going though, supposed to be on the road already.
Just
>wanted to share my cool news with everyone before I left.  Still not sure
~what~
>I'll do with it, though.  Part of me want's to leave it sealed, but other
>parts...  wanna play!!!!  Ooh, getting excited :)
>
>Catch ya all later (and have fun in Rocket Talk!)
>
>--
>Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
>mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
>http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
>   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
>    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
>     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
>  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 19:43:03 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: is the pre-luber worth it?

At 07:22 PM 7/30/98 -0700, you wrote:
>dont know if I'd pay 439.99 for it looks like a simple electric pump
>could probably make it for about fifty bucks wouldnt pay that price

would puttint the coil on a switch and cranking the engine a few times
before starting do the same thing as a pre-luber?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 22:47:14 EDT
From: <R4C442@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Holley carb power valve

Hey Patrick!
    To respond to your query about Holley Power Valves:
1.  What is it and what does it do can be addressed as one. The function of
the PV
     is to provide an extra shot of fuel when the manifold vacuum drops which
  generally corresponds to a downward excursion of your right foot! The PV is
normally held in the closed position by engine vacuum produced at idle. When
you nail the throttle at any point thereafter, the decrease in vacuum allows
the PV to open thereby producing the extra amount of fuel. It can be seen that
if your engine produces 20 inches of vacuum at 700 rpm and your PV is rated at
21 inches, it will be open all the time as there won't be enough vacuum to
hold the valve closed. By the same token, if the valve is rated at 18, a very
small drop in engine vacuum (slight throttle application) will be enough to
open the valve resulting in a rich condition.
    If you have a PV rated at 2, it would probably never open, resulting in a
pronounced bog when you nail it. You should shoot for a valve which is rated
at 6-8 inches below your engine vacuum at idle.
2. How can you tell if its bad?  Usually, if you put your fingers over the
vent tubes to block the air while the engine is running it should stall. If it
doesn't, you probably have a blown PV.

Ron Forsee

65 442-Meister

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 22:49:05 EDT
From: <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Master cyl bore size??new style master,long

In a message dated 98-07-30 14:57:48 EDT, you write:

<<  The boosters pushrod should depress the master cylinders piston a bit.
This is
 normal.  So I wouldn't suggest shimming.  You might check the length of the
 pushrod.  Remove it from the booster.  The overall length should be 2.630" >>
Oh well i guess thats not it then. I had same condition w/ the previous
booster. It looked good but i figured what else could it be. The problem has
to be in the master, wrong size or something. I will let you know.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 22:50:26 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Re:

Send it to me again too, since the strike is over, she may be able to
reply sooner..!!

Mike
mailto:krzy4evr@usit.net
_____________________________________________________________________
> From:          "Roger Nienberg" <s002rwn@discover.wright.edu>
> Can someone tell me the address of phone number of that one place that can
> give you all sorts of information on your oldsmobile for like 10 bucks.
>
>
> Roger Nienberg
> 69' Cutlass S
> 90' Camaro RS
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 23:00:42 EDT
From: <R4C442@aol.com>
Subject: Re: OPC Racing This Weekend

Hey John!
    It's hard to say how many will be going racing Saturday because usually
only the die-hard racers will want to race. The awards ceremony will probably
start around 4:00 and end around 5:00. Racing at Kil-Kare starts at 7:00. You
can see that by the time you get there, chances are you won't even be able to
get one timed run in for bracket purposes. That's why I say usually only the
die-hard racers go as they forego the awards and leave around 2:00. No reason
why you can't go out and watch though. Kil-Kare is an NHRA sanctioned strip
and as such all rules are strictly enforced. The main ones...batteries tied
down...seat belts...long pants..radiator overflow catch cans... 13 second
machines=drive shaft loop....12 seconds=helmet.
                                                                   See you in
Fairborn
                                                                    Ron Forsee
                                                                    65
442-Meister

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 23:00:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Tuning Q-Jet

><< Where is a good place to buy jets and primary rods for Q-Jets? >>
>
>Your local Olds Dealer *might* have them, or he may be able to order them from
>Rochester Products Division.

They're still available through GM dealers, but for a price (~$10 each rod).
If you try to pick up a few for tuning, you can easily run up a big tab. The
Edelbrock Performer Q-jet tuning kits begin to look like a bargain, since
they include four sets of primary and secondary rods, plus jets and springs,
for around $100.

>Further, Karl now got 2 Edelbrock cat's (yah, with the heads in it) and they
>carry Q-jet rods and hangers! Karl does not know nor will even guess exactly
>how interchangeable these are with *any* year Q-jet. More disclaimers apply
>here than usual.

There are two kinds of primary rods (all secondary rods are
interchangeable); the rods from the "70" series carbs (up to about 1974)
don't interchange with the "170" series rods ('75 and later; the carb number
stamped in the side of the carb will either begin with "70" or "170", which
indicates which series it belongs to).

>You might get a better price by grabbing a carb of known jetting out of a
>yarde.
>Karl can get Roch 2 Jets, and Q-jets for like $5 per at a yarde (out of the
>barrel-o-carbs). These are usually corroded on exterior and anywhere water can
>get. Jets seem to be somewhat resistant. I can name one person who has even
>acquired a tri-taper metering rod this way.

That's the best bet for accumulating a tuning kit; just check the carb
number on the side to make sure it is of the same series as the carb you are
trying to tune.
_________
Bob Barry

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 23:07:37 EDT
From: <R4C442@aol.com>
Subject: Re: is the pre-luber worth it?

Negatory good buddy. Cranking the engine with no spark turns every component
over with no or little lube. Besides, at cranking speed, the oil pump takes a
long time to have any impact at all. The pre-luber turns only the oil pump,
and at a high rate of speed to properly lube all components before they are
moved.
You can accomplish the same with an oil pump shaft and an electric drill.
                                                                   Ron Forsee
                                                                   65
442-Meister

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 23:02:18 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Olds History Center Address

Can someone tell me the address of phone number of that one place that can
>give you all sorts of information on your oldsmobile for like 10 bucks.
>
Helen Earley
Olds History Center
920 Townsend St.
Mailcode 489-111-040
Lansing, MI 48921

Ph. #517-377-5660

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 23:12:21 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: I need some opinions on stripe color

Blaine,

Aha!  I am considering the same thing for the repaint of my 70 C/S SX.  Candy
Green with a silver/white base, with the silver being where the "stripes"
would be.

Might not be for everyone, but it'll work for me!

Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 20:14:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Larry <kajrav@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Macungie, PA

     I hope to be there on sunday.

                               Larry



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 23:28:35 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: Fastball video.

Sorry all for being boneheaded....
here's the link for the fastball video

http://208.218.3.144/bands/fastball/video1.html

Kerry Kroger wrote:
>
> Send it to me directly at kerryk@mci2000.com thanx
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Thursday, July 30, 1998 3:43 PM
> Subject: Re: Fastball video.
>
> >I have the video to this song...If you don't have AOL, I can email it to
> >you.....
> >
> >LooseCanno@aol.com wrote:
> >>
> >> This is really taking off!
> >>
> >> Just saw the Fastball video ("Anyone can see the road that they walk on
> is
> >> paved in gold..") .  The whole band in a mid-seventies convertible Delta,
> >> maroonish-red.. Whose car is that?
> >>
> >> Erik
> >> '69 Cutlass convert

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 20:50:13 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: CLOSED

In case anyone missed the first post:

Supercars Unlimited will be closed this Friday (July 31st).  For our
annual pilgrimage to Seattle International Raceway for the Northwest
Nationals.  I can almost smell the nitro already......
Back Monday to normal store hours of 9:00 am to 4:00 pm (Pacific time).
This is the last of the vacation days for 1998.  Sorry for any
inconvenience.

Have you checked out our web site yet?

- --
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 00:04:45 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Oil Analysis

> OK, I'm interested, what does it claim to tell you?
>
I've seen this in Hot Rod or Hot Rodding or some other mag about 5 or 6
years ago.  In EVERY case, regardless of how well the engine was cared
for, they always came back saying dirt was getting in the oil, and that
the air cleaner and or PCV should be checked/replaced.  Take that for
what it's worth.  Used oil will contain some contaminants.  Period.
Also, it told of metallic deposits, acidity, chemical breakdown, and a
summary on the analysis.  If you have something you suspect, it's
probably not a bad idea.  The Navy has been doing this for YEARS on
their fleet diesel oil to check for premature failures/impending
problems.  For that price, it may just give you peace of mind.

Opinion,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 00:19:18 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Oil Analysis

I've got to chime in on this engine oil analysis - I know we're going to use
some sort of oil analysis on our race engines regularly.  Back when I was in
the Marines we had to do engine oil analysis on our aircraft's engines on a
regular basis.  If there was a problem, the jet was grounded until we found
the problem or the engine was replaced.  It can tell you about trouble before
it becomes a real expensive fix.  Among other things, it can tell you the
condition of the rings by the amount of blow-by in the oil and the amount of
metals suspended in it.  By determining what type of metal is in it, you can
see if it's bearing, ring, piston, cam, lifter, or block metal.  Some amounts
in very small quanities are normal, but if the amounts keep growing at too
quick a rate then you're headed for trouble.  It can even tell you if the oil
is losing it's viscosity, such as there's a need to change oil weight
according to your type of use.  Also, if you begin to do oil analysis, keep it
a regular part of your maintenance.  This way, it will be easy to spot
potential trouble early.

Another thing we always do is cut open our oil filter after each oil change
(which on Grace is every other week, or every third week, depending on amount
of engine time between actual races, such as testing).  You'd be surprised to
see what gets stopped before it could get to the engine and cause trouble!

Hope this helps.  Take Care!

Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 21:27:00 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: New Olsmobilia purchase

Oldsmagnet wrote:

> Just ran across some really good information...  And as a result, it sounds
like > (not 100% confirmed yet but 95% at least) I'll be getting a new model
(plastic) > soon...  The infamous Hurst Hairy Olds  :)  Wahoo!!!   Still
unopenned...  Kinda > excited.  I gotta get going though, supposed to be on the
road already.  Just > wanted to share my cool news with everyone before I left.
Still not sure ~what~ > I'll do with it, though.  Part of me want's to leave it
sealed, but other > parts...  wanna play!!!!  Ooh, getting excited :) > > Catch
ya all later (and have fun in Rocket Talk!) > > Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @
Sidney Montana

Charley,

A word of ($$) caution. There was a re-release of the 67 Hurst Hairy Olds in
1995. The collectors point of view is of course that these are of a lesser 
value
than the original release in 1967.  The re-release can be identified by having 
a
1995 copyright printed on the upper side of the box.  The new kit looks to be
from the original molds.  Just a warning if you decide to assemble the kit,
don't pay the price for an unopened 1967.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 00:31:41 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: is the pre-luber worth it?

> Negatory good buddy. Cranking the engine with no spark turns every component
> over with no or little lube. Besides, at cranking speed, the oil pump takes a
> long time to have any impact at all.

Amazingly, if properly primed, the oil pump will move a good amount of
oil with cranking.  Obviously not as much as higher speeds, granted,
since the volumetric flowrate of a positive displacement pump varies
ONLY with speed.  I think the pre-luber mentioned is the one that they
loved to sell to turbo owners, which, in effect is not a bad idea.  You
ALWAYS want to pre-lube your engine by hand or with a drill before
intital startup of a fresh engine right?  What can it hurt to do it
before you start it every day?  It has been proven that bearing wear is
greatest on startup.  By getting the oil flowing BEFORE you start moving
the internals, then the bearings have a cushion of oil available which
will definitely decrease wear.  Now, as far as the 400+ bucks for a pump
with a timer on it is worth it, I think that would be up to the owner.
I haven't had any oiling related problems without using the pump.  I got
a few extra 455s laying around in case I ever do.  I don't mind building
them, so the 400 bucks can go in one of the extra engine buildups....

Opinions,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 22:23:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: cecilia laughton <laughton@silcom.com>
Subject: re: Stan and my 75 Omega

Stan,
Thanks for your comments and tips. This Omega isn't "little" though. It
looks like a Chevy Nova, the "X" body, which is a relatively popular body
style. That's why I can't understand why the Omega has turned into the
"forgotten one". I guess I'm getting swept up into the "Olds Mania" and want
to figure out why, what I consider a sharp-looking car, has faded into
oblivion.

Thanks again,
Cecilia Laughton

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 00:40:27 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: TH-2004R Durability - A Response from Art Carr

I've heard alot of good comments about that TH-400 with that overdrive gear
setup. I think that is the better route than the other trans.
 That OLDS torque is just TOO much for the 200 trans. Just get a Chevy
motor, they make more HP than torque in some cases(just kidding). Stay with
the OLDS.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Shang <shang@wans.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: TH-2004R Durability - A Response from Art Carr
> Date: Thursday, July 30, 1998 5:24 PM
>
> ICK! Sorry about the formatting, it looked fine when I was ready to send
> it. My apologies!
>
> Stephen Hoover
> Dallas, Texas
> '70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 23:32:52 +0000
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Oldsmobilia Question

I'm trying to date the following item I found today:

Visor mirror - with 2 clips that slide over visor to hold in place - old
Olds crest logo in center, art deco style lines across the top of the
mirror - with space to write notations for 'spark plugs' 'oil change'
'battery' and 3 or 4 other maintenance functions down each side.  De Luxe
noted on bottom in script lettering (small).   Anyone have an idea how old
this possibly is?  I bought it cause it was cool looking, but curious how
old it might be.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible,  '72
Vista Cruiser, '80 GMC

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 01:41:48 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: '76/'77 Cutlass/Regal door swap

In a message dated 98-07-30 20:34:50 EDT, you write:

<< I talked to a parts yard guy today that says he has a couple of "Southern,
 rustfree" doors that will fit my '76 Cutlass S....but they're off of a '76
 Buick Regal.  Can anyone confirm that these are indeed the same? If so,
 I'll go test the validity of "rustfree" doors... ;-)

 Thanks,


 Mike Evans >>



Mike, Hollanders says "Supreme, Salon, & Brougham '76-77 interchange with
Regal 76-77 Matter of fact, looks like the only difference on the doors would
be the glass, even if it were non Sup., Sal., etc.   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 02:03:20 EDT
From: <SPotter596@aol.com>
Subject: Re: New Olsmobilia purchase

Fred Meyer here Sells a 67 442 and a 69 42 w30 model kit.
I took back the plane my wife bought my boy and got both together in a weekend
so olds can adorn his model shelf . He's four and can tell olds from other
gm's.
not collector models but tons o fun.

start em early
Steve

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 02:18:40 EDT
From: <DEOVIVERE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Oil Analysis

In a message dated 98-07-31 00:21:39 EDT, you write:

<<  Among other things, it can tell you the
 condition of the rings by the amount of blow-by in the oil and the amount of
 metals suspended in it.  By determining what type of metal is in it, you can
 see if it's bearing, ring, piston, cam, lifter, or block metal.  >>


This would have been very helpful for me and my 70 SX W-32 the engine of which
is presently at the machine shop getting the lower-end redone.

In the Spring, I spun a rod bearing.  When we got the engine out of the car
and apart, we discovered that the oil looked like diesel fuel.  It definitely
was not doing its job.

I bought the car in December and hadn't driven it much at all and didn't think
to check/change all vital fluids (I assumed all would be AOK as I bought it
from a reliable and professional guy).  Well, after I put about 150 miles on
it, THAKA-THAKA-THAKA went the engine with the oil pressure dropping through
the floor.

The moral of the story is: Check your oil.  It sounds like this analysis tool
will be extremely useful for preventing expensive problems like the one I am
presently up to my neck in.  FWIW, with all this positive talk about this
product on the list, it might also be smart to buy some stock in the company!

Tom Simmons
65 Cutlass/442 clone (my driver with recently completed suspension rebuild and
modification)
70 SX W-32 (with hollow engine compartment)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 03:00:38 EDT
From: <CCRR12@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobilia Question

In a message dated 98-07-31 01:37:48 EDT, you write:

<< I'm trying to date the following item I found today:

 Visor mirror - with 2 clips that slide over visor to hold in place - old
 Olds crest logo in center, art deco style lines across the top of the
 mirror - with space to write notations for 'spark plugs' 'oil change'
 'battery' and 3 or 4 other maintenance functions down each side.  De Luxe
 noted on bottom in script lettering (small).   Anyone have an idea how old
 this possibly is? >>

Lisa,

We have collected a few from the 50's. By comparison it sounds like yours must
be older. We have noticed that the lettering tends to be more refined as they
progress.
It is surprising how similar the Olds mirrors were from about 55 through 70.

Randy in Okla
57 88 J2

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 02:21:59 pdt
From: "Dal Allan" <endlcom@ibm.net>
Subject: Fuel_line_material

Gas line questions.

Our '67 Cutlass has some lengths of hose that recent dialog on this list
caused me to put on the replacement list, and use a higher quality hose
than the regular grade 7 that is there now.

My good intentions on fuel hose turned into urgent necessity today for a
different car. As well as the Olds, we have a 76 Avanti and today a pinhole
leak started in one of the short lengths of hose which run from the fuel
tank to the metal lines. The tank is behind the rear seat, and the hose
comes through the floor to join the metal lines above the rear wheel arch.

I have notes from a magazine article about a new grade 9 line which better
resists the additives they are putting in the fuel these days. The only fuel
hose the auto stores around here carry is grade '7'.

Braided fuel lines are no use to me, there is no place to use fittings in
the Avanti. There are at least three places I've located so far which have
short lenghts of hose to make line connections. They are all slip-on, and
only have spring clamps to hold them in place.

Hose for fuel injected systems is rated at 900 psi bursting strength vs 50
psi and has a lining made out of fluorelastemer (whatever that is). The PSI
does nothing for me but never having to replace these short lengths of hose
again is my top goal, so am wondering if the 5X price helps longevity.

Questions:

 - Has anybody found a source for grade 9 line?

 - Does anybody know if fuel injection will last longer than grade 7?

 - Are there any other suggestions on what to use to get the longest life?

Thanks.

Dal
endlcom@ibm.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 06:45:59 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Fuel Line Material

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Dal Allan" <endlcom@ibm.net>
Subject:   Fuel_line_material

Gas line questions.

Our '67 Cutlass has some lengths of hose that recent dialog on this list
caused me to put on the replacement list, and use a higher quality hose
than the regular grade 7 that is there now.

My good intentions on fuel hose turned into urgent necessity today for a
different car. As well as the Olds, we have a 76 Avanti and today a pinhole
leak started in one of the short lengths of hose which run from the fuel
tank to the metal lines. The tank is behind the rear seat, and the hose
comes through the floor to join the metal lines above the rear wheel arch.

I have notes from a magazine article about a new grade 9 line which better
resists the additives they are putting in the fuel these days. The only fuel
hose the auto stores around here carry is grade '7'.

Braided fuel lines are no use to me, there is no place to use fittings in
the Avanti. There are at least three places I've located so far which have
short lenghts of hose to make line connections. They are all slip-on, and
only have spring clamps to hold them in place.

Hose for fuel injected systems is rated at 900 psi bursting strength vs 50
psi and has a lining made out of fluorelastemer (whatever that is). The PSI
does nothing for me but never having to replace these short lengths of hose
again is my top goal, so am wondering if the 5X price helps longevity.

Questions:

 - Has anybody found a source for grade 9 line?

 - Does anybody know if fuel injection will last longer than grade 7?

 - Are there any other suggestions on what to use to get the longest life?

Thanks.

Dal
endlcom@ibm.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 07:33:11 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: need dipstick help

Olds says to just tool Jxxxxx and a slide hammer, to remove, and to use
tool Jxxxxx to install.

Mine needs to be removed and a new one installed, if you find a good
way, let me know!

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 09:30:24 EDT
From: <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: Clear Coating Question

I just got done spraying clear and was wondering if I could go back a week
later and spray it again. Can I?
Also, can you spray a different type of clear like say DuPont over Painters
Pride, or do you have to stick with the one clear?
Thanks,
Jim

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 09:42:56 EDT
From: <Onebil2mny@aol.com>
Subject: Watch

I an searching for a small bit of Oldsmobilia.  It is a watch that was shaped
like a steering wheel, I believe it had a silver face, and a burgandy Olds
Rocket in the middle.  When I was a lot younger, I wound his to death, oops!
Now I would like to replace it if I can find one, or two.   So if you know of
one of theese watches, or have one, let me know via private E-Mail.  Price and
condition too please.

Thanks!
Bill K
Onebil2mny@Aol.Com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 09:38:32 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: poncho list

A friend of mine just bought a 64 Tempest and is looking for a mailing list
like this one. I tried to talk him into a REAL car but he's been a
poncho-head since he was a kid. Oh well, at least he didn't buy a Che*y.
Anyone know of a Pontiac list?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 06:41:47 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: is the pre-luber worth it?

no the preluber doesnt move any of the engine parts that way no wear
if you crank it the engine parts are still moving.  Thought about myself
then thought better of it...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, July 30, 1998 7:45 PM
Subject: Re: is the pre-luber worth it?


>At 07:22 PM 7/30/98 -0700, you wrote:
>>dont know if I'd pay 439.99 for it looks like a simple electric pump
>>could probably make it for about fifty bucks wouldnt pay that price
>
>would puttint the coil on a switch and cranking the engine a few times
>before starting do the same thing as a pre-luber?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 06:43:32 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Stan and my 75 Omega

Omegas used to be really popular as a circle tracker then they just
disappeared dont know why..kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: cecilia laughton <laughton@silcom.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, July 30, 1998 10:22 PM
Subject: re: Stan and my 75 Omega


>Stan,
>Thanks for your comments and tips. This Omega isn't "little" though. It
>looks like a Chevy Nova, the "X" body, which is a relatively popular body
>style. That's why I can't understand why the Omega has turned into the
>"forgotten one". I guess I'm getting swept up into the "Olds Mania" and
want
>to figure out why, what I consider a sharp-looking car, has faded into
>oblivion.
>
>Thanks again,
>Cecilia Laughton
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 06:46:54 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Fuel Line Material

the braided line can be used without the AN fittings but the FI line should
be good for your use...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, July 31, 1998 2:46 AM
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Fuel Line Material


>
>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>From: "Dal Allan" <endlcom@ibm.net>
>Subject:   Fuel_line_material
>
>Gas line questions.
>
>Our '67 Cutlass has some lengths of hose that recent dialog on this list
>caused me to put on the replacement list, and use a higher quality hose
>than the regular grade 7 that is there now.
>
>My good intentions on fuel hose turned into urgent necessity today for a
>different car. As well as the Olds, we have a 76 Avanti and today a pinhole
>leak started in one of the short lengths of hose which run from the fuel
>tank to the metal lines. The tank is behind the rear seat, and the hose
>comes through the floor to join the metal lines above the rear wheel arch.
>
>I have notes from a magazine article about a new grade 9 line which better
>resists the additives they are putting in the fuel these days. The only
fuel
>hose the auto stores around here carry is grade '7'.
>
>Braided fuel lines are no use to me, there is no place to use fittings in
>the Avanti. There are at least three places I've located so far which have
>short lenghts of hose to make line connections. They are all slip-on, and
>only have spring clamps to hold them in place.
>
>Hose for fuel injected systems is rated at 900 psi bursting strength vs 50
>psi and has a lining made out of fluorelastemer (whatever that is). The PSI
>does nothing for me but never having to replace these short lengths of hose
>again is my top goal, so am wondering if the 5X price helps longevity.
>
>Questions:
>
> - Has anybody found a source for grade 9 line?
>
> - Does anybody know if fuel injection will last longer than grade 7?
>
> - Are there any other suggestions on what to use to get the longest life?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Dal
>endlcom@ibm.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 09:08:31 -0600
From: Edward Pittman <edward@gdar.org>
Subject: Re: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke

What did this erik guy say? Can someone copy me on
it? Everyone's drawers are in a wad and I want to
be mad, too!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 10:26:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Thinking about some G-body modifications (1985 Cutlass Supreme)...
<long>

O.K. gang, did a little day dreaming on the way back from the Nationals.
Wanted to get some input from those who've done some of the things I'm
thinking about.

I have a '85 Cutlass with the 307. Dark red with dark red iterior. I've
owned the car since new and am quite fond of it, certainly more fond than
what "market value" says it's worth. The car has a rally gauge package and
split bench.

I've always drooled when in the presence of the '83/'84 H/O. There were
several very nice ones in Springfield.

So, I got to thinking about modifying my car into an '85 H/O clone.

I see the following needing to be done to do this and wish to get some input.

1.      Convert the car to buckets with console - preferably a lightnening
rod or what about one of the older floor shifter types (Dual Gate??). I
could get the seats from a junkyard or maybe purchase some aftermarket seats
and have them recovered to match the dark red interior. What's the
availability of lightening rod shifters or others? How hard is it to convert
to floor shift?

2.      Once these interior mods were made, the car would be sharp enough.
But, if you're going to carry the H/O title, there's one thing you need:
MORE POWER. Since there was a '85 442, we'll need to look at going a notch
above the 442s performance, right?

So, pull the 307 which is in good running condition and replace with
something else. I was thinking of finding an Olds 350 and having it rebuilt
with some seriouis mods. I'd want to keep everything underneath appearing as
close to possible as a factory built engine. That means keeping the
computer, ac, etc. I hear the 350 and 307 have identical blocks but am not
sure. Would a 350 fit? What about hooking everything up? What do you guys
think? 350? What years are better?

With the engine change, would I need to rebuild the front suspension? The
car has about 100k now.

Now, with more power, I guess we'll have to go get a stronger tranny.
Suggestions?

3.      One thing that made the G-bodies "faster" was their rears. I think
3.73s were common. So, another thing needed would be to replace the car's
rear end. Don't shoot, but, would a rear from another GM fit (i.e. Monte
Carlo SS)?

4.      I guess we'd need to replace the 14" tires with 15" and install the
'83/'84 H/O wheels. (The car has the factory chrome wheels now so this could
probably wait). How much trouble would it be to go to the larger size tire?

Since the car's already dark red, paint work probably wouldn't be needed.
The car has a metal roof now.

What other ideas do you guys have? I know this will take some bucks. But it
may be as practical for me than selling the '85 for "market value" and then
going and trying to buy a well taken care of H/O.

It's just a thought I had while cruising through southern Illinois with
everyone else in the car asleep.

Have a good weekend,

Chris



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 07:36:30 PDT
From: "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Clear Coating Question

>i think you have to type of clear ,i was painting a monte ,and we ran
out of the dupont and hit it with wastern ,and nexts day it peeld up
real bad ,im not a pro or something ,but i would not do it.


>I just got done spraying clear and was wondering if I could go back a
week
>later and spray it again. Can I?
>Also, can you spray a different type of clear like say DuPont over
Painters
>Pride, or do you have to stick with the one clear?
>Thanks,
>Jim
>



  My  -------   -------
            /  |
           /   |
          /     ------
         /            |
        /             |
       /        ------    DELTA 88
Ryan D Beck
           Riviera72sss@hotmail.com


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 09:43:17 +0100
From: cdemps@lsumc.edu (Dempsey, Charles)
Subject: Re: is the pre-luber worth it?

Kerry Kroger wrote:
>
> no the preluber doesnt move any of the engine parts that way no wear
> if you crank it the engine parts are still moving.  Thought about myself
> then thought better of it...kk

The last pre-luber that I saw was actually an oil accumulator. It was a
one quart canister with seal and a big spring at the back which was
plumbed into the oil pressure gallery. There was a solenoid valve
between the gallery and the can.

With the engine running, the valve would be open allowing oil from the
gallery to flow into the canister compressing the spring. When you
turned the ignition off, the valve would shut trapping the presurized
oil in the canister. The next time you turned on the ignition, the valve
would open which allowed presurized oil flow to the engine
*during starting*.

This was a big deal at the time ('60s). I don't know if it actually
helped that much, and it increased the complexity of the system, but
having oil pressure during starting made me feel a lot better. I don't
know that I would pay $450 for one unless the engine was very special.

Charles

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 10:44:13 -0400
From: "Weaver, Stanleigh G" <Stanleigh.Weaver@PHL.Boeing.com>
Subject: RE: Thinking about some G-body modifications (1985 Cutlass Suprem 
e)...
<long>

	Chris wrote:>> Don't shoot, but, would a rear from another GM
fit (i.e. Monte
> Carlo SS)?
>
	Chris,
I believe (someone please correct me if I'm wrong) the G-body Monte
Carlo SS and Buick Grand National Rears will work in your car. Of course
the G-body Hurst Olds rear will too. If you have luck finding a 3.73 or
3.42 rear to install in your car you my also want to swap in an
overdrive tranny such as the TH200R4. Otherwise your engine will not
like highway driving.
        S.G. Weaver

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 09:45:17 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: Clear Coating Question

I've always read you should use the same brand of paint for all painting
on a car.  For example, DuPont primer, DuPont color coat, DuPont clear
coat.  Otherwise compatibility problems between the different brands of
paint may occur.
Now I have no experience painting cars, but this is what I've read since
I'm contemplating painting a car sometime in the future. (when in the
future I don't know)

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others
>
>I just got done spraying clear and was wondering if I could go back a week
>later and spray it again. Can I?
>Also, can you spray a different type of clear like say DuPont over Painters
>Pride, or do you have to stick with the one clear?
>Thanks,
>Jim
>

------------------------------

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 11:24:00 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Clear Coating Question

> I've always read you should use the same brand of paint for all painting
> on a car.  For example, DuPont primer, DuPont color coat, DuPont clear
> coat.  Otherwise compatibility problems between the different brands of
> paint may occur.

Very true.  Depending on the brand, will depend on what constituents are
in the chemical makeup of the paint.  For instance, BASF uses a
polyester-based basecoat, while Ditzler uses some other type of base.
NOT compatible with each other.  I've found out by talking to the DuPont
rep that you MUST stay with the same brandname of painting products used
throughout the prep/painting process, or disaster is more than likely
the result.  Same holds true with the same TYPE of paint in the same
brandname.  Say, you don't want to use a clear enamel over base laquer.
Most paint companies have a "system" approach to the paint process.
They have a line of paints in different formulations, which usually
takes the guesswork out of it.

Observations,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 11:04:02 -0500
From: Chad Schwartz <ChadS@pcsco.com>
Subject: RE: How do I set up a Holley 3310?

>First, what is baseline?  What is the stock out of the box settings and
>jets??

My 3310 had 72's in the primaries.

Was this a new or used carb?  I have used 3 of these carbs and all have
worked extremely well with almost nothing done to them.  Just jet changes,
check float levels, change secondary springs, and set idle mixture screws.
They were on a Chevy ZZZ, Olds 350, and now my Chevy ZZ4.   I did purchase
new ones and one was a Holley factory reman.   Is he having problems with
the car not running right?


>This is for a AMC 360 CID engine, but for the typical 5.7L engine, what
>are typical jets, squirters, etc?

My Chevy ZZ4 has 78 primary jets in it now.  That engine likes lots of air
and fuel.  Might be because of the big roller cam, aluminum heads, and 10:1
compression.  The ZZZ engine had 70 primary jets.  Olds 350 I used 70
primary jets.  The idle mixture screws were always about 1 ½ - 2 turns out.
Used out of the box squirters but did change the secondary springs to
lighter than out of the box.

I've had great luck with 3310's on the street.  All engines got 16-20 mpg
with 3.73 gears and always idled perfect at stops and while parked idling.

Chad Schwartz
chads@pcsco.com
mIRC: ROCKN6
Denison, IA
'87 GN  T-Tops (TE-44, 40lb Inj, Modified Stock IC, ATR Cam, JC Chip,
			 ATR 2 ½" SS Exhaust, TH 3" DP, 3" Test Pipe, ATR
Ram Air)
'79 H/O T-Tops (400 HP/430 TQ ZZ4 350 H.O. Chevy, TH350, 3.73 Posi)

"Poverty Is Owning A Race Car"  "Happiness Is A Low E.T."

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 11:16:19 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: interchangeability of 66-67 and 69

Hi all,
I'm just curious if a 66 Cutlass trunk lid will fit a 67 Cutlass f-85?
Also, I'm pretty sure the rear window, reveal moldings and rear
suspension will interchange between a 66 and 67 but just want to double
check with everyone here.
Also will a 69 4-4-2 floor shift steering column fit a 67 Cutlass f-85?
My guess is the steering shaft is too short.  I'd guess the 64-67 will
interchange and the 68-72 will interchange.  But most of my knowledge
lies in 68-72, so I figured I'd ask the people in the know.  Thanks.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 11:31:49 -0500
From: bloom@mail.gorilla.net
Subject: RE: RE: Thomas Martins Reply = Subject: Electric Choke

At 07:48 PM 7/30/98 -0400, you wrote:
Jonathan,I think you are right on target. The only thing I would add is we
have
to remember the kid was 17 years old. This is not an excuse for the kid,but
just to say that the back ground and lack of experience comes into play
also. As
a parent I do not allow my kids to use any kind of bad language. I realize
I'm not
always everywhere they are, but I also set an example by not using any
language in
their presence that's socially wrong.
  I think it was right to boot Eric from the list, but I hope he
understands and
accepts why he was wrong.
  Sorry for getting the soap box out.


>It's hard sometimes when your reading an e-mail response to get a sense of
>the other person.  Well meaning words, and especially good natured sarcasm
>or reaction, can come across as put downs etc. because we as the reader
>don't see the body language or facial expression that goes along with the
>words.  Which is why some people use ;) etc.  (I find it can be hard even
>when I'm looking right at somebody!)
>
>I'm not defending or accusing anybody here.  Just simply pointing out where
>I thought the reaction got started.
>
>jp
>
>Jonathan Parke
>mailto:jonparke@together.net
>'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
>
>
>
Fred K. (bloom@gorilla.net)
Tulsa,OK. area
'67 442
'67 Cutlass
		44   44  44   44  222222
		44   44  44   44   2  2
		4444444  4444444   2  2
		     44       44   2  2
		     44       44  222222
	

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 12:56:07 EDT
From: <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Hot Rod does Olds... Finally....!

OK, so I get my copy of Hot Rod magazine in the mail yesterday, and what is on
the cover but a little blurb about "alternative motors", meaning Olds 455.
The article goes into the putting together of a killer motor (with aot of
torque..., of course...).  It uses the Edelbrock heads on the motor, and goes
into a description of these head, and what is different from these, and the
stock (cast iron, hi-perf.) heads (W-30's, etc...).  It mentions a 50 lbs.
weight savings over th stock heads (about right, as we were figuring using the
density #'s we had....).  It does cover about 4-6 pages of the magazine and
talks about changes needed to make it work on a small block.  The last part of
the article talk of using this engine in more cars, to be different, and put
them into Firebirds, and Camaros.  Wow!  What a good thing to see!  I was
amazed, of course.....

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 13:08:16 EDT
From: <RICH6986@aol.com>
Subject: sorry not olds related but important

sorry about this but it kind of has olds content any way on a 98 j**p wr*ngler
they have hinges the you can fold the windshield down well he bought new crome
ones and we were trying to put them in and they went on the body ok but the
holes just wouldnt line up right on the windshield tried everything but the
bolts just wouldnt go in if any one has had a jeep or done any work on one any
ideas would help but about the olds content if I can fix this for him he is
going to buy me a new rear bumper for my 82 cutlass supreme there's the olds
content   TIA   Rich
81,82,85 cutlass supreme

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 19:18:44 +0200
From: "TRONDJARLE PEDERSEN" <trondped@c2i.net>
Subject: Goat`Cha

Hay Gang
Have you cheked out last Hot Rod Magasine (July 98)?
On page 38 there is a 66 GTO  BUT   it is powered by a: 526cid Kobelco-blown,
Enderle-injected, alky-inhaling Keith Black OLDSMOBILE...
 Now why not use a real car to?
Any sponsors out there??
Hmm...
Oh yes the Dart aluminium heads on it, I thougt that batten and now edelbrok
were the only alu, heads awailable, right?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 13:21:14 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: interchangeability of 66-67 and 69

I'm just curious if a 66 Cutlass trunk lid will fit a 67 Cutlass f-85?
Also, I'm pretty sure the rear window, reveal moldings and rear
suspension will interchange between a 66 and 67 but just want to double
check with everyone here.
Also will a 69 4-4-2 floor shift steering column fit a 67 Cutlass f-85?
My guess is the steering shaft is too short.  I'd guess the 64-67 will
interchange and the 68-72 will interchange.  But most of my knowledge
lies in 68-72, so I figured I'd ask the people in the know.  Thanks.

Chris Smetana
__________________

Chris,

First, the 66 and 67 trunk lids will interchange, even between 2dr, 4dr,
and convert.  The mouldings and rear suspension are also interchangeable,
however keep in mind that this refers to the rear axle as an assembly.

The 69 steering column was the first to have the ignition on the column and
thus will only interchange with 69-72.  67 was the first year for
collapsible steering columns, so it will not interchange with 64-66 (though
you might be able to interchange the complete column and lower shaft - I'm
not sure).  67 and 68 will interchange.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 13:27:37 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Goat`Cha

On page 38 there is a 66 GTO  BUT   it is powered by a: 526cid
Kobelco-blown, Enderle-injected, alky-inhaling Keith Black OLDSMOBILE...
 Now why not use a real car to?
Any sponsors out there??
Hmm...
Oh yes the Dart aluminium heads on it, I thougt that batten and now
edelbrok were the only alu, heads awailable, right?
_________________

Uh, that's not an _Olds_ motor as we know it, it's the DRCE as used by
Warren Johnson in Pro Stock.  This is basically big block Chevy internals
housed in a unique block and heads designed and sold by Olds.  The DRCE was
developed in the 80s when Olds was heavy into sponsoring NHRA racers, but
since Olds has dropped out of drag racing, the DRCE2 is now a "Pontiac"
motor.  Despite the Chevy architecture (hence the Dart heads), the block
_does_ correct some shortcomings in the Rat motor design.  It also has dual
Chevy/BOP bolt patterns on the bellhousing end.  And, for those like me who
feel size really does matter, the DRCE can be taken out to 650 cu in!

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1398
*********************************
