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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1395


oldsmobile-digest      Wednesday, July 29 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1395



Re: I need some opinions on stripe color
Ploy swaybar bushings
Re: I need some opinions on stripe color
Re: Ploy swaybar bushings
Re: I need some opinions on stripe color
RE: 307 Olds
Trans Cooler
RE: stripe color - sidebar
'67 D-88
Re:  DMR event  tune up
Re: I need some opinions on stripe color
Re: I need some opinions on stripe color
Re: '68 H/O Cam (was Re: Exhaust Manifolds)
Re: w-30 parts/prices
Oil Blown Thru dipstick
Re: I need some opinions on stripe color
Re: '68 H/O Cam
i need power locks
Re: i need power locks
Re:  RE: 307 Olds
I got a red convertible now!
Re:  i need power locks
Re: Vacuum tank
Re: why is my Olds shaking?
Re: Rust {Expanding foam}
RE: I got a red convertible now!
Weight (was: Price of Edelbrock Heads)
Re: Ohio Collectors plates for 1987 442
Re: Price of Edelbrock Heads
This morning was a good OLDS morning
Re: Price of Edelbrock Heads
RE: 307 Olds
Re: I need some opinions on stripe color
Re: Wanted: W Machine
Re:  RE: 307 Olds
HELP---'76/'77 4-4-2 Grilles Needed
Electric Choke
Re: I need some opinions on stripe color
Re: '67 D-88
Re: i need power locks
Re: I need some opinions on stripe color
Combination/Proportioning Valve
Re: Electric Choke
Re: New Pictures are up
Wheels
'65 Cutlass Wheel Covers
Tuning Q-Jet
Re:  I got a red convertible now!
Re: Tuning Q-Jet
Re: 307 Olds. What to do with the '86 Cutlass?
Re: 350 Diesel Exhaust Manifolds
Re: '67 D-88
Re: 307 Olds. What to do with the '86 Cutlass?
69 type O posi needed
Paint
Re: '65 Cutlass Wheel Covers
Re: I need some opinions on stripe color
My Olds isn't  shaking
Re: Paint
Re: Paint

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 00:59:58 EDT
From: <Cnvrt67@aol.com>
Subject: Re: I need some opinions on stripe color

i suggest twilite blue with black stripes. i think this is an awsome look. and
if its just a nice car and you dont really care about it being all
correct..... if you paint it twilite, and you dont have a ram-air hood, i
suggest adding the w-23???? stripe package. i think it was only available in
72 but it will look cool on anything 70-72. all it is is a thicker stripe on
the hood. it looks real good. whoever the last person was that said they
posted pics of the nationals had an example..... it was a saddle bronze 72 442
convertible. he took a couple of picture of the car. very nice. my .02

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible
http://members.aol.com/Cnvrt67/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 00:20:45 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Ploy swaybar bushings

Has anyone else installed or try to install Energy Suspension's
Polyurethane swaybar bushings? I have a set and have double checked that
they are the correct ones, but I cannot get the brackets to line up. It
appears the area on the swaybar where the bushing is, is not
perpendicular to the frame. I tried to force the brackets over where
they would fit, but it seemed like it was just to much force and
distortion on the bushing. I thought about trying to elongate the holes,
but in order for them to fit properly I would have to cut a hole that I
think would render the bracket nearly useless.


Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 01:59:18 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: I need some opinions on stripe color

Stefan Gadecki wrote:

> painting it either Twilight blue or Astro Blue.  My question is this,
> what color stripes should I get, black or gold?  I've got a blue
> interior.

Have you considered white, silver or a lighter blue?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 03:11:19 -0400
From: Peter Flinkfelt <pftno1klr@edgenet.net>
Subject: Re: Ploy swaybar bushings

Not much, but I did install them on a 86 Pontiac T/A. They went in near
perfect accept for the swaybar bushings. It ended up the sway bar was
bent/warped. Hope this helps.

Peter Flinkfelt

Stephen Hoover wrote:

> Has anyone else installed or try to install Energy Suspension's
> Polyurethane swaybar bushings? I have a set and have double checked that
> they are the correct ones, but I cannot get the brackets to line up. It
> appears the area on the swaybar where the bushing is, is not
> perpendicular to the frame. I tried to force the brackets over where
> they would fit, but it seemed like it was just to much force and
> distortion on the bushing. I thought about trying to elongate the holes,
> but in order for them to fit properly I would have to cut a hole that I
> think would render the bracket nearly useless.
>
> Stephen Hoover
> Dallas, Texas
> '70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 06:45:58 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: I need some opinions on stripe color

If it was my car, I would go with Twilight Blue (an awesome color) with
either white, silver or light blue stripes. Especially with the blue
interior. Twilight is dark enough that I would avoid the black stripes.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 07:23:34 -0400
From: "Weaver, Stanleigh G" <Stanleigh.Weaver@PHL.Boeing.com>
Subject: RE: 307 Olds

Did you install an adjustable valve train when you upgraded to the
Edelbrock Cam? If so, what kind did you purchase?
Thanks
SW '84 Olds Cutlass

> ----------
> From: 	JJP442@aol.com[SMTP:JJP442@aol.com]
> Sent: 	Wednesday, July 29, 1998 12:30 AM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re:  307 Olds
>
> I installed the Edelbrock performer intake on my 307HO with a cam
> upgrade
> also,
> It has never let me down yet. (it's been a few years now). I think
> you'll be
> pleased.
> Good Luck,
> JJP442@aol.com
>
> My stable;
> 1983 15th Anniversary Hurst Olds
> 1987 442
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 04:44:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: Trans Cooler

     Seems we have some confusion on auxiliary trans coolers. I think
the discussion has gotten confused where one person is talking about
how to run the lines and someone else has confused that with the
mounting location of the cooler itself.
     So here we go! Mount the cooler in front of the radiator and AC
condensor, if any. You cooler lines should run from the transmission
to the original cooler, out to the aux cooler, then back to the
transmission. The lowermost outlet on the trans is the output and the
upper is the return. On a crossflow radiator, the output line from the
trans goes to the lowermost cooler connection. This makes the fluid
flow uphill to reduce air bubbles.
     This is the way police cars and taxicabs, or really any car with
an aux cooler should be set up.



==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our Oldsmobiles and more at
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 07:57:28 -0500
From: "Cote, Jeffrey"
<IMCEAEX-_O=MCCO_OU=MORGAN_CN=RECIPIENTS_CN=M947AIM@morganco.com> Subject: RE:
stripe color - sidebar

Speaking of color/stripe combos, I saw photos of the
celebration (ugh, couldnt go) of 442s that were silver
with red stripes (and red line tires) and silver w/blue
stripes. I have a love/hate relationship with these
combos. On the love side, they do provide a "feeling"
of the era. Does anyone know what I mean?
- --Jeff

> ----------
> > From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: I need some opinions on stripe color
> > Date: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 10:10 PM
> >
> >
> >   I'm getting my car painted next week.  It's a 70 Cutlass 'S' and I'm
> > painting it either Twilight blue or Astro Blue.  My question is this,
> > what color stripes should I get, black or gold?  I've got a blue
> > interior.  I was pretty sure of black, but I saw a blue 442 with gold
> > stripes over the weekend and I kind of liked it.  Man, I hate big
> > decisions.  I was just wondering what you guys' opinions are.
> >
> >
> > TIA
> > Stefan
> > sgadecki@yahoo.com
> > 1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
> > _________________________________________________________
> > DO YOU YAHOO!?
> > Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 00:00:43 +0000
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: '67 D-88

We have access here to '67 D-88 parts.  What front end stuff are you
looking for?  I've got extra's from my car as well.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible,  '72
Vista Cruiser, '80 GMC 1/2 ton (the youngster)

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 09:02:15 EDT
From: <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  DMR event  tune up

Patrick,

The carb setting could be one of several things or combination of some
together. At what RPM are you idling at ?

The idle settings are the two screws that are on the metering plate between
the fuel bowl and main body. Depening on what your cam is
I'll give example of how to set - with vacuum gauge (best way) or by
tach reading start on one side and turn idle adjust screw until highest
vacuum reading. Repeat on other side. Chances are that rpm shld pick up as
vacuum signal increases.
Reset desired idle rpm if necessary.
 Do this twice and on 2nd. adjustment their should be hardly any difference in
signal or rpm. You now have idle mixture correct.
If running rich in motion then the jets in front can be reduced in size and
/or the power valve may be opening too soon causing a
definate over rich condition. Jet sizes are numbered and stamped on side of
jet. Only way to know whats in now is to take bowl off and see. (In advance
stop and get at least two each of
the bowl gaskets and metering plate to body gaskets. I suggest the
brown/glossy ones that have a coating of ? to keep from sticking.
You'll soon know why when you carefully scrape the old one off both surfaces.

 Try going down 2 numbers in size on the main jets (The unscrew)
from metering plate facing you once bowl off.about 1/4" Dia.with slot
in middle.

It becomes a case of try it and see cause every motor's different and responds
differently. This should get you in the ball park anyways.

Sounds like your right on now with th distributor. 34-36 deg. is perfect
for big block but you'd notice definate improvement if it was all in by
2800-3000 instead of 4000. To do this you have to change the springs in the
dist. to lighter ones to allow movement quicker. Again
trial & error. Try one medium + one lite one and see how quick it comes in. go
lighter or heavier as case may call for..
Also do this with the vacuum off the dist. At wide open throttle you have no
vacuum so that's where the dist. needs to think it is when checking for total
timing. I just set my timing at 35 at 3000 rpm and let the initial fall where
it may. Hook the vac can up and go.
You should be able to go as high as 15-17 deg initial before you start
incurring starting problems (Draggin starter) .

As far as other stuff required for racing. Should have a helmet (Snell 8-8.5
or higher rated) and tools. Norwalk is pretty easy on the tech and will most
likely only check
for battery hold down.  Oops you have convert. so time is lower (ET) in that
you would have to have a roll bar vs. hardtop. NHRA is 13.99 quicker for
convert. 11.99 for HT.
Not sure about IHRA (Norwalk) for this but being a closed event they would
probably
cut some slack on that. Check with Vance maybe to see if he knows what the
IHRA rule is.

Caravan leaving my house on Sat. 11:30. Several of us go day early to get
checked in for
Saturday night bracket race. If you want to join up we have reservations at
the Econolodge in Norwalk. 419 668 5656.

Trust this helps ya. Not to worry though there will be enough guys sown there
that'll be able asst. in fine tuning with ya.

Rgds,
Rob

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 07:07:50 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: I need some opinions on stripe color

> It's a 70 Cutlass 'S' and I'm painting it either Twilight blue
> or Astro Blue.  My question is this, what color stripes should
> I get, black or gold?  I've got a blue interior.

COLOR OF STRIPE: Comments (Effect on bystanders)
- ------------------------------------------------
LIGHT BLUE: Lighter shades complement the body color and look
very factory in appearance ("Cool! An original factory paint job!")

DARK BLUE: Ditto, if your body color is a light shade ("Ditto!")

BLACK: Makes sense if you've got tinted windows and blacked-out
trim; otherwise it looks kind of funereal ("Look, Marge, a
funereal Cutlass!")

GOLD: Very contrasty; will look like it was added because the
body color needed jazzing-up ("Hey, he needs gold-plated nameplates
to go with that!")

WHITE: You can't get more contrasty, but I wouldn't try it without
a white (or light blue) interior to go with it ("Hey, Marge, he
should have used light blue because lighter shades complement the
body color and look very factory in appearance!") Whoops, this is
where we came in...   :-)

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 10:16:19 -0400
From: D Frizsell <dfrizsell@WCUVAX1.WCU.EDU>
Subject: Re: I need some opinions on stripe color

Have you considered white?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 07:15:50 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: '68 H/O Cam (was Re: Exhaust Manifolds)

I could be wrong, but I don't believe that cam is being made by anyone.
The cam for the non/air '68 H/Os (and W-31s), PN#402194 is made by I
believe more than one source, and is availible from many of the parts
vendors. I have not seen a replacement for the 400165 cam.


>On Tue, 28 Jul 1998, Corey Day wrote:
>> Also does anyone have a good source for the 68 Hurst Olds Cam Olds
PN#
>> 400165?


Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 10:13:15 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: w-30 parts/prices

$100 for a 68-72 tilt column!!   What a deal, most of the prices that i
have
seen start at $200 with a plane jane wheel.   This could be a result of the
exhorbitant rates that people from the Northeast charge and consequently
pay.
______________

The July Hemmings has an ad for a 69-72 floor shift tilt column for $95.
Also, F heads for $450 each.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 09:15:33 -0500
From: Paul Brillhart <u17058@uic.edu>
Subject: Oil Blown Thru dipstick

Hi,

  Last night I finally got my '65 442 out for a drive. (Thanks Joe
Padavano for the info on installing the timing cover.)  Anyway, after
warming it up and blowing it out several times, I took it home.  Popping
the hood I noticed oil had blown through the dipstick tube onto the
inner fender well and oil had blown through the filler cap onto the
manifold/carb.  What can I do to get rid of this problem?  Thanks.




Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 10:20:19 EDT
From: <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: Re: I need some opinions on stripe color

A platinum stripe looks great with the twighlight blue.
There is a car like that on 442.com with pictures. You can see the platinum
color at my page: http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html
Jim McKeague
70 Cutlass W31
70 Rallye 350

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 11:12:59 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: '68 H/O Cam

Brent Pinkstaff wrote:
>
> I could be wrong, but I don't believe that cam is being made by anyone.
> The cam for the non/air '68 H/Os (and W-31s), PN#402194 is made by I
> believe more than one source, and is availible from many of the parts
> vendors. I have not seen a replacement for the 400165 cam.

I think that Supercars Unlimited has them.  They did when I bought mine
from them.  This is the .472 lift cam used in the 68 H/O (with A/C) 69
Toro, H/O, and standard 70-71 442 cams (maybe 72 455s also, not 100%
sure)

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 11:25:24 EDT
From: <RICH6986@aol.com>
Subject: i need power locks

If anybody has any extra power door lock switches for an 82 cutlass supreme i
need them for my car I looked in all the junk yards and auto parts stores and
the only place that had them was the dealership and they wanted $170 for the
pair needless to say I didnt buy them so if anybody has them i would glady pay
you for them and for shipping TIA         Rich6986@aol.com
81 cutlass
82 cutlass
85 cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 11:56:15 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: i need power locks

> If anybody has any extra power door lock switches for an 82 cutlass supreme i
> need them for my car I looked in all the junk yards and auto parts stores and
> the only place that had them was the dealership and they wanted $170 for the
> pair

If I recall, these were the switches on the lower door panel?  The
square chrome ones?  I believe the 82 door panels is similar to the
83-88 RWD Cutlass.  The "HELP" section has these in places like AutoZone
and PartsAmerica.  I've seen them.  I bought a replacement for my 87
from GM about 2 months ago, and guess what?  I found out it's the same
Mfr. that makes the "HELP" switch.  Motormite, I think is the name, if I
recall.  They just put it in a GM box, and added a couple of bucks to
the price.  I do believe I saw them at AutoZone for something like 23
bucks or so each.  Even then I think I only paid less than 30 from GM.
The only difference I saw from the original and the new one is that the
"LOCK" lettering is closer together on the new one.  Since they're all
the way across the car from each other, it's not noticeable.

Hmmm.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 12:38:33 EDT
From: <JJP442@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  RE: 307 Olds

I spoke with Joe Mondelo before the cam and intake swap. I didn't want to
sacrifice drivability or my creature comforts a/c,cruise etc. and the stock
ecm.
I got the intake from Jegs and he sold me the cam and lifters and told me this
is the best I could use without eliminating the computer.  My tranny is a
200R4 out of a Gran National. I didn't do anything to it except have the local
tranny shop give it the once over and change some seals. It works great, from
overdrive I can break the tires loose in 1st and 2nd gears. I'm real happy
with it , hope this helps.
Good Luck Again,
JJP442@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 03:39:56 -0400
From: "Kerr, Brian (R)" <kerrb@basf-corp.com>
Subject: I got a red convertible now!

     To all that have followed my progress with my project (and care), I got
the beast painted yesterday. My Dad came to help me mix paint, keep me from
dragging the hose through the paint, watch for bugs, keep the floor wet, and
keep me from sticking my butt onto the car. The plan was to do the final
prep on Sunday, leave it overnight, and paint Monday AM. Well, he and I
worked at sanding and prep until 2AM Mon , got back to the shop Monday 9am,
worked all day and all night non stop, and I first pulled the trigger on the
gun for the first color coat at 5:55 am Tuesday, and finished painting at
4:30 pm.

     The big problem/delay was the drivers door. I had welded in two bottom
corners and ended up with the center of the door too low and the weld joints
too high. Hours later with the help of a shrinking dolly and hammer, pick
hammer, and a 3.5 foot long body file made out of aluminum flat stock and a
3 inch wide roll off 120 grit sandpaper, I finally got the door straight.
The other problem is I just plain screwed up figuring how much work there
was to do the job right. My dad is not a body man, has no interest in being
a body man, and does not  enjoy the work. He is however, a retired farmer
and electrician, very competent when it comes to mechanical stuff, welding
etc., and he knows how important it for me to finish this car for my wedding
day. Other than falling asleep standing holding the air hose, he did great,
and without him, the car would not be painted yet. Other people have
 commented about how great a guy my dad is, and my usual response is: " Yea,
I good one, I think I'll keep him" (Ditto for my mom)

     The car got 4 coats of Diamont base coat in Matador Red, and 4 coats of
Diamont DC 92 Clear. It looks absolutely amazing!!! There are no sanding
scratches showing through, the panels are straight, especially the rear
quarters that took a significant amount of work. The job has turned out
(without the assistance of any professional help) better than I had any
right to expect. Yes, there are a couple of dirt specs in it and I had to
pick out some bugs between coats, and I did miss one tiny litle dent on the
corner of the hood, but with a lot of internal pride I can casually say,
'Oh, I did all the body and paint myself'

     I went home at 6pm, got into the bath tub and promptly fell asleep for
an hour. Woke up and went back to the shop to clean up , unmask etc. Got
home at about 11 pm and got to bed for the first time in 30 grueling hours.

     One of the guys at the car club is working on a 67 Firebird conv and is
at a similar stage of restoration as me, was commenting last night about how
well it turned out, and I said that I did a  particularly good job around
the tail lights just for him. "What do you mean" he asked, some what
confused. I replied " Well, those the only parts you'll be seein!!"

     On a final note, I'll be signing off the list on Thursday afternoon and
going to the digest. My holidays start on Friday, and I'm getting married on
August 8th. The race begins in earnest now because the engine has not been
started in 2 years, and wiring, brakes, interior and top still have to go
on!! I'll be back on August 24 as a married man, 'see' you all then.

Take care

Brian Kerr
Cambridge Ontario

RED and SHINY!!
69 Cutlass Conv



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 13:02:02 EDT
From: <JJP442@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  i need power locks

I've been playing with G-bodies for a long time and saving a buck here or
there is always a benefit  for me. If your lock switch doesn't work try this;
Pop off the switch from the door panel,turn it upside down and with a thin
screwdriver or an awl tool separate the black square case with the posts from
the chrome. You can then clean the copper terminals and contact points with
alittle wire brush or steel wool, spray alittle contact cleaner on them and
snap it all back together. I.ve done this countless times with success and
saved a few bucks in the process. The whole job shouldn't take more than
20min. It's pretty simple, and the black case only goes in one way, it's got a
corner cut off so it has only one way to fit back into the chrome frame.
Good luck,
JJP442@aol.com

1983 Hurst Olds
1987 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 13:03:11 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Vacuum tank

In a message dated 98-07-28 21:27:38 EDT, you write:

<< power disk brakes on my 69 442 "lack power" due to a radical cam
shaft....not enough manifold vaccum. >>

I am not versed in "vacc tanks", but I can say that the power booster will
store its vaccuum at the moments when the manifold vaccuum is highest.
Unaided, it will not have more vaccuum than the manifold is capable of, BUT it
will seldom be operating on less vaccuum than the optimum vaccuum that the
manifold can produce at any time.

So unless a vacc tank can multiply manifold vacuum I do not see how it would
help.

(Of course I am really saying this so someone will correct me by telling me
how a vacc tank works....)

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 13:03:13 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: why is my Olds shaking?

I assume that this is either a problem that appeared suddenly, or one that
developed until you noticed. (And said: "Hey!.......")

At any rate, something changed.

(Unless your daily driver is a riceburner and you forgot what a Lansing engine
felt like.....)

You might have caused the change yourself without noticing it.

I would be interested in knowing what your vibrational damper looks like (what
shape it is in).
Have you changed your exhaust system?

And I agree with C. B. that it could be related to combustion in a discreet
area of the engine.
Like getting blow-by out of one cylinder only.

But you are right, it is odd...

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 11:08:05 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rust {Expanding foam}

Do you mean in the trunk-area, around the wheel wells?
The problem here, I believe, is like most places where rust starts: Dirt
/ Water Trap.
If you look at the design of the trunk, where does the water run?
I noticed on my car that a little dust always gets into the trunk
eventually, and a little bit of water + dust makes mud, which stays by
the wheel-wells until they rust and it falls out.

The new trend I've heard of and started to use is self-expanding foam to
level off that portion of the trunk, and eliminate the water trap.

Any one else ever heard of this idea????

Eric
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/

>      To All -
>      Has anyone found a way to suspend the rust that forms inside the rear
>      quarter panels around the wheel areas?  Mine has surface rust and is
>      not through yet - is there anything that I can spray in there to
>      suspend the rust?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 10:14:40 -0700
From: "Gary Andresen (At Home)" <gandresen@home.com>
Subject: RE: I got a red convertible now!

WOW, sounds beautiful.

Hope you or someone can get a scanned photo image up so we can all see it.

Congratulations!!

Gary Andresen
'55 Olds with Big Block 455
	http://www.442.com/andresen.html

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Kerr, Brian (R)
> Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 1998 12:40 AM
> To: 'Olds List'
> Subject: I got a red convertible now!
>
>
>
>      To all that have followed my progress with my project (and
> care), I got
> the beast painted yesterday. My Dad came to help me mix paint,
> keep me from
> dragging the hose through the paint, watch for bugs, keep the
> floor wet, and
> keep me from sticking my butt onto the car. The plan was to do the final
> prep on Sunday, leave it overnight, and paint Monday AM. Well, he and I
> worked at sanding and prep until 2AM Mon , got back to the shop
> Monday 9am,
> worked all day and all night non stop, and I first pulled the
> trigger on the
> gun for the first color coat at 5:55 am Tuesday, and finished painting at
> 4:30 pm.
>
>      The big problem/delay was the drivers door. I had welded in
> two bottom
> corners and ended up with the center of the door too low and the
> weld joints
> too high. Hours later with the help of a shrinking dolly and hammer, pick
> hammer, and a 3.5 foot long body file made out of aluminum flat
> stock and a
> 3 inch wide roll off 120 grit sandpaper, I finally got the door straight.
> The other problem is I just plain screwed up figuring how much work there
> was to do the job right. My dad is not a body man, has no
> interest in being
> a body man, and does not  enjoy the work. He is however, a retired farmer
> and electrician, very competent when it comes to mechanical
> stuff, welding
> etc., and he knows how important it for me to finish this car for
> my wedding
> day. Other than falling asleep standing holding the air hose, he
> did great,
> and without him, the car would not be painted yet. Other people have
>  commented about how great a guy my dad is, and my usual response
> is: " Yea,
> I good one, I think I'll keep him" (Ditto for my mom)
>
>      The car got 4 coats of Diamont base coat in Matador Red, and
> 4 coats of
> Diamont DC 92 Clear. It looks absolutely amazing!!! There are no sanding
> scratches showing through, the panels are straight, especially the rear
> quarters that took a significant amount of work. The job has turned out
> (without the assistance of any professional help) better than I had any
> right to expect. Yes, there are a couple of dirt specs in it and I had to
> pick out some bugs between coats, and I did miss one tiny litle
> dent on the
> corner of the hood, but with a lot of internal pride I can casually say,
> 'Oh, I did all the body and paint myself'
>
>      I went home at 6pm, got into the bath tub and promptly fell
> asleep for
> an hour. Woke up and went back to the shop to clean up , unmask etc. Got
> home at about 11 pm and got to bed for the first time in 30
> grueling hours.
>
>      One of the guys at the car club is working on a 67 Firebird
> conv and is
> at a similar stage of restoration as me, was commenting last
> night about how
> well it turned out, and I said that I did a  particularly good job around
> the tail lights just for him. "What do you mean" he asked, some what
> confused. I replied " Well, those the only parts you'll be seein!!"
>
>      On a final note, I'll be signing off the list on Thursday
> afternoon and
> going to the digest. My holidays start on Friday, and I'm getting
> married on
> August 8th. The race begins in earnest now because the engine has
> not been
> started in 2 years, and wiring, brakes, interior and top still have to go
> on!! I'll be back on August 24 as a married man, 'see' you all then.
>
> Take care
>
> Brian Kerr
> Cambridge Ontario
>
> RED and SHINY!!
> 69 Cutlass Conv
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 13:48:35 EDT
From: <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Weight (was: Price of Edelbrock Heads)

In a message dated 98-07-28 16:52:05 EDT, you write:

<<
 I thought the articles on the heads last year had quoted Joe M as saying
 the Edelbrock heads flowed about like "C" heads out of the box - in other
 words you still needed to pay him big bucks to port them.  On the other
 hand, I think the density of aluminum is closer to a _third_ that of cast
 iron.

 Joe Padavano >>

Here's the specifics for the weight savings....

Density of the two materials (in lbs./sq.-in.)

Cast Iron - .260
Aluminum - .097

There's quite a bit of weight savings there.... over 2.5 to 1 ratio....

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 13:56:17 -0400
From: "Paul L. Fikaris" <fikaris@en.com>
Subject: Re: Ohio Collectors plates for 1987 442

Mark, I think Steve meant Collector's Plates, which are different than
Historical Plates in Ohio.

Historical Plates have a 25-year-old requirement. BTW the fee for Historical
Plates out the door is $20.75. I ferget what the other five buck is for, but
it's worth it. You can also apply to use "model year" plates when you get
Historicals provided you have an original plate and its number has not been
issued to someone else.

FYI: Ohio's website for plates is www.state.oh.us/opds/division/bmv/bmv.html

Steve, I work in Middleburg Hts., and I know I've seen you car, it's very
nice. I get a huge laugh out of some cars that are wearing Collector tags,
Triumph Spitfires, any 'Vette (joke) 300 ZX, even Mazda Miatas! (ha).
Nothing's normal with plates in Ohio. Guess we shouldn't complain as I
understand Ohio is pretty easy compared to other states.



>Steve:
>
>I live in Cincinnati.
>
>According to O.R.C. 4503.181>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>"To qualify, motor vehicles must be at least 25 years old. They are
>solely collector's items and are used for participation in club
>activities, exhibitions, tours, parades, etc. but NOT for general
>transportion."
>
>"Historical license plates are valid without renewal for the life of the
>vehicle, except when there is a change in ownership. In that case, the
>plates must be surrendered to the Registrar of the Ohio Bureau of Motor
>Vehicles."
>
>The current fee is $15.75.
>
>Ohio Bureau Of Motor Vehicles
>Attn: Registration Division
>P.O. Box 16521
>Columbus, Ohio 43266-0021
>
>Phone # (614)752-7800
>
>I think you have a few years to go.
>
>Mark Hahn
>75 Delta 88 Royale Convertible
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 14:01:36 EDT
From: <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Price of Edelbrock Heads

In a message dated 98-07-29 00:13:48 EDT, you write:

<<
 It's all fine and dandy to hear talk about the heads. Since they will either
 ship this week or next week it's finally become a reality. One catch though.
 I've got many inside sources that tell me they (edelbrock) in the end only
have
 50 or less heads ready for the first shipping. That is 1/3 less than the
total
 they were supposed to ship, 150 sets. I've been waiting for 8 months now and
 sorry to say it, but edelbrock cares nothing about the customer, only money.
 So, if anybody orders a set don't be surprised to wait about a year for your
 set. It's sad that they actually stop the Olds production to make some ch*vy
 heads... It's a shame what the world is coming to... :-(

 Ben >>

So, just one question..., how do you know this?  Do you work there?  Just
kinda curious on this one..  The statements you are making are not very
positive ones, and you are putting Edelbrock in a very bad light right now so
I am wondering what the source is.  I can't see someone at Edelbrock telling
you this.  I'd see no reason why they would stop makin Olds heads (that they
have orders for) to make something else.  There are things in manufacturing
called "production lots" that basically estblish a certain quantity to be made
at one time, and that determines how many you make at once.  They will do
"lots" of production, not run "all the orders of one time at once".
Clarification please?
Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 12:33:25 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: This morning was a good OLDS morning

Without going to statistics and attempting to calculate a
vastly-unreliable chance of this happening, I'll just assume it was a
rare event:

I'm pulling into Regina, Saskatchewan in my newly acquired $300 75
Cutlass (Goldie), when I see what appears to be a 60's Olds
convertable.  I speed up and stop behind the car at some traffic lights,
and IT IS!  So well I glance at this nice looking car (with
out-of-province plates), a 1972 Olds 98 TWO DOOR pulls up beside us.
All three drivers did the look at the other car and acknowledge it's
Olds-ness thing, and here's me in my worst-shape Olds I own (left the
wife with my 1972 Olds 98, and my nice 75 Cutlass isn't plated)

At any rate, 3 Classic old's , one intersection, makes for a NICE DAY..


{Although mine had to be the rough-one, at least I'm keeping the oil's
clean!}

At any rate, to see the new addition,

http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/pics/4_olds_in_driveway.jpg

Not a bad selection, hey {I just hope the 80-foot tall pine trees don't
fall on them}!

Eric
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 12:02:57 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Price of Edelbrock Heads

> So, just one question..., how do you know this?  Do you work there?  Just
> kinda curious on this one..

My local speed shop (who knows Vic Edelbrock Jr., Joe Mondello, has close
friends inside Edelbrock and races NHRA), One of the reps at Mondello, and
(here's the kicker) even one of Edelbrocks techs have re-afirmed the 
information
I confronted them with.

>  I'd see no reason why they would stop makin Olds heads (that they
> have orders for) to make something else.

It's simply called supply and demand. There is more demand for Ch*vy than there
is for brand new Olds heads. To be honest, Pontiac and others (can't recal who
else right now) have gone through the same problems when Edelbrock made their
heads.

>  There are things in manufacturing called "production lots" that basically
> estblish a certain quantity to be made at one time, and that determines how
many > you make at once.  They will do "lots" of production, not run "all the
orders of > one time at once". > Chris Ruper

  I know about lots. I am in the Marines and deal with lots every day. But...
Edelbrock follows the lots to a point. If they foul up a set of heads they get
melted down and there is one less head in the batch. The batch most likely
started at 150, but edelbrock has informed us that it's more like 50 that are 
in
the final stages. The rest... long gone. How edelbrock works is they run EVERY
head through one process and ONLY when they ALL are done will they move to the
next process. It's really a stop and go process. Since they may have been
waiting on heads to finish a process they threw in chevy lots infront of us...
Makes sense, but not smart. I've been following the heads for over a year. Have
been on order for 9 months, been pushed back 2weeks-1 month for a total of 4
months delay! I used to like Edelbrock because of their quality parts. But now 
I
hate them with a passion because of their poor customer service and just "Don't
give a damn about anybody but the money" attitude. I call almost everyday to 
get
status on my heads, and I laugh when their advertisement says, "Made by
enthusiasts, for enthusiasts..." If it were made by enthusiasts, then we would
have had the heads LONG AGO, am I right?

Remember, most are facts but heavily laiden with my opinion
Ben
62 Olds f-85 (forsale!!!!!) http://www.primenet.com/~olds442/forsale.html
68 Olds442 (still waiting for my heads...)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 17:13:48 -0400
From: "Angel Castrodad" <angleki@prtc.net>
Subject: RE: 307 Olds

>he sold me the cam and lifters and told me this
>is the best I could use without eliminating the computer.

>JJP442@aol.com


	Can you tell me the part #s and/or specs on that cam and lifters that
Mondello recomended to you? I'm about to do a cam swap and I'm looking for
the best or biggest I can get without yanking out the computer yet.

TIA,

Angel Castrodad
angleki@prtc.net
'86 442------> 307 (5A), TH-350, 3.73 gears........Ooooh, T-tops!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 17:41:55 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: I need some opinions on stripe color

Here's another idea: silver stripes.  My 80 Starfire is silver with metallic
blue stripes.

I like it, at least:-)

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 17:46:17 EDT
From: <WMACHINES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted: W Machine

In a message dated 98-07-28 09:52:53 EDT, you write:

<< Hey everyone.

 I am looking to find a 68-72 442 W-30 or W-31 for sale. Must be running
 and not a rust bucket and have matching #s all around. Must also be a
 documented W machine (ie build sheet, window sticker...) unless its a 72.
 I have found a couple for sale, but I'm trying to avoid transporting costs.
 I live in Worcester, MA and would prefer to find one in my region (but
 doesnt
 look like its from my region!!!) but if arrangements can be made, this isnt
 necessary. Can anyone help?

 Jeff Cote >>
Yes sir I can help.  A fella by the name of Dave Anderson in Thamesville
Ontario has one 72 W-30 forsale.  Its numbers match and is a number 2 car.  He
is asking 12,000 US or 18,000 Canadian for it.  If you are interested, email
me I will forward his tele number.  Car has all the Canadina documentation and
of course the X in the vin.  Car is Black with gold stripes.  Has ralley pack,
dual gate, am radio, rear window defog, tinted window option, SS1 wheels and
of coures the W-30 package, alum intake, OAI hood and air cleaner, manual disc
brakes and such.

 Later Mark Prince
W MACHINES

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 18:01:27 EDT
From: <JJP442@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  RE: 307 Olds

You will have to call Joe Mondello and pick his brain yourself. Although I
purchased and installed his recommended cam and lifters along with an
Edelbrock performer manifold and am still using the stock Q-jet, all this work
was done to a stock 307HO motor out of a  84 HurstOlds. I installed this set
up in my 87 442.
According to Joe M there was alot more room to play with the 84 motor because
of it's design. 86&87 442's came with roller cam 307engines, so you might be
alittle more limited as to what you can do. Hope this helps.
GoodLuck,
JJP442@aol.com
1983 15th Anniversary HurstOlds
1987 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 18:39:16 -0400
From: talcarol@erie.net (Chris Kugler)
Subject: HELP---'76/'77 4-4-2 Grilles Needed

I urgently need the grills for my '77 442. I got in an accident and totaled
my frontend. If none are available I'll gladly except '76 grills.  Please
reply.  You can e-mail me direct at talcarol@erie.net if you want.

Thanks,
Chris Kugler
1977 Cutlass S 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 16:23:54 -0700
From: Erik Badzinski <erikreb@netbridge.net>
Subject: Electric Choke

Hi all,

I Just got my Edelbrock Intake and Carb today and I put them onto my '72
Cutlass S.  I'm having a local mechanic help me and he said to hook up
the electric choke I need some sort of special device that will control
when it opens and closes.  He said if we just wire the choke up now it
will work, but it will always stay open.  But I thought the device he
was talking about was built into the carb.  It is a Performer 600 CFM
electric choke.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Erik B.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 17:49:25 -0600
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: Re: I need some opinions on stripe color

I always thought it would be cool to do a "candy" stripe.  You know, paint
the stripes in silver base, then spray a few coats of blue-tinted clear over
it. So then the stripes would blend in and be barely visible in low light,
but would really shine in the day light.  I haven't dinked around with candy
paints that much, so I don't know if it would look cool or really lame.
Just an idea...

- -Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 19:47:18 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: '67 D-88

Lisa - RF fender and r door.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 19:49:39 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: i need power locks

There are 2 types of switches, similar but not interchangeable (I forget the
exact reason). The auto parts stores' "Help!" brand has one but not the
other. If your luck is like mine, the one you need is not the one they
carry.

However the switch is a really simple device. If it's still intact, pry it
apart and clean the contacts like JJP442 says in his post. Mine actually
broke - the little plastic tabs gave way and the innards came out. I was
able to repair them by scraping the chrome off the back side and epoxying
them back together with J.B.Weld glue. Need to clamp it till the glue cures.
I lost the pivot pin on one of them, and used a piece of a finishing nail as
a replacement. Yankee ingenuity.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 19:50:09 EDT
From: <Bowtie911@aol.com>
Subject: Re: I need some opinions on stripe color

Okay, lets talk about colors. My 65 442 is white, all white except for the
stainless and chrome, with the black interior, it looks kind of dull. What I
was thinking about is a alcohol type flame coming from the front end. What do
you think?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 19:56:40 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Combination/Proportioning Valve

I've received a number of e-mails regarding the correct combination
valves ('70-'72), so I decided to send this to the list.
Here's what I know:

The 2 function valve is used on manual disc brakes and all station
wagons.

The 3 function valve is used on everything except manual disc brakes and
all station wagons.

OAI has nothing to do with the brake system (this is why I questioned
the description from Year One).  After spending some time at the local
Olds parts counter cross comparing the parts books and the service
manuals, we determined from the GM descriptions that someone at GM must
have thought OAI and W30 meant the same thing.  The 3 function valve is
p/n
2550-9418 and the 2 function valve is p/n 1257177.

Both have the warning switch and metering valve functions, but the
3 way adds a balance function.  The balance function "operates to
reduce the pressure of the rear brakes because of weight shift during
high deceleration stops to improve front and rear brake balance."  With
that being said, either valve should function, but the proper valve
would give better hard braking control.

BTW, combination valve is the correct term since the 2 function valve
does not have the balance (proportioning) function.
- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 20:12:04 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Electric Choke

Thought we just covered this...

The choke should be powered after the engine starts. Factory arrangement is
to wire it through the oil pressure idiot light switch. That would require a
different switch and minor rewiring of the idiot light circuit. On cars with
gages (no oil press switch), they use a small relay driven by the brown wire
on the alternator. The relay pulls in when the alternator rpm comes up.

If your car always starts first kick, you could just power the choke from
any source that's hot when the key is in the 'on' position. Just be aware
that the choke is openning as you crank the motor over, and never leave the
ignition on without the engine running.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 20:21:15 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: New Pictures are up

Oldsmagnet wrote:

> Got any pictures of yours?

Not on the net, no scanner.

>  Plan on getting some for the convert???

Depends if I buy it or not.  Have to wair for the guy to come back from
his honeymoon first.  Maybe wifey-poo will motivate him to move it -
cheap!

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 20:24:46 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Wheels

Could someone send me the url for the site that posts pics of the
different ss Olds factory wheels...PRIVATELY...!!!


Mike................

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 17:22:14 -0700
From: Terry Warford <twarford@centaur-corp.com>
Subject: '65 Cutlass Wheel Covers

Looking for a set of '65 Cutlass (non-442) spoked wheel covers with two
pronged knock-off.

Any ideas or anyone have any ??

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 17:42:33 -0700
From: Chris & Robin Miller <cya442@mindspring.com>
Subject: Tuning Q-Jet

Where is a good place to buy jets and primary rods for Q-Jets?

- --
Chris Miller
'68 442
Tustin, CA
mailto:cya442@mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 20:39:50 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re:  I got a red convertible now!

>     To all that have followed my progress with my project (and care), I
got
>the beast painted yesterday.
<snip it-always-takes-longer-than-you-think-story>

>     The car got 4 coats of Diamont base coat in Matador Red, and 4 coats
of
>Diamont DC 92 Clear. It looks absolutely amazing!!!

I just used some of R-M's Diamont basecoat - clearcoat as a repair on my
Delta. I can HIGHLY recommend this stuff. Excellent quality, bullet proof
finish.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 20:41:14 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Tuning Q-Jet

Contact Greg Rollin at Supercars Unlimited.  His E-mail address is
supercar@transport.com  He may be closed for a day or two yet, but he has
what you want and he is very clever re: Q-Jet.  Peter

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 01:08:32 -0500
From: "Charles A. Dempsey" <cdemps@lsumc.edu>
Subject: Re: 307 Olds. What to do with the '86 Cutlass?

Weaver, Stanleigh G wrote:
>
> Dear List members,
>
> has anyone installed an Edelbrock Performer (#3711) Intake and Performer
> Cam (#3712) into a 307 Olds engine?

Hi,

My situation exactly, er... sort of.

I've got a white/maroon leather '86 Cutlass Supreme Brougham that's been
in the family since it was a baby (you guessed right. It's my mom's
car). It's got 140K miles and is in good shape. I'd like to play with
the suspension (it handles like a cow) and give it a little kick (well,
'ya know :-).

I thought about trying to find a smashed or rusted '86 442 and
transferring parts, but these aren't that common. Does anybody have a
lead on such a car, or an opinion as to whether I should go with off the
shelf stock or aftermarket replacement parts (if such are available)? I
reviewed the FAQ, but I'm not sure if stock 442 engine parts are going
to give me the kick that I need. The one I drove seemed not much faster
than my stock Y code, although it did have a firm ride and a nice
exhaust note. For comparison I'd like to get around 15.0 or better 1/4
mile performance, although I don't intend to race.

Location is Northwest Louisiana. TIA for any advise.

Thanks,
Charles

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 20:38:19 +0000
From: ejhufnagel@juno.com (Edward J. Hufnagel)
Subject: Re: 350 Diesel Exhaust Manifolds

On Tue, 28 Jul 1998 22:33:35 -0300 (ADT) Greg Beaulieu
<ab348@chebucto.ns.ca> writes:

>Wow! That's news to me. Could you forward casting numbers and/or part
>numbers?
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia,
>Canada

    Greg,
              Keeping in mind that this is a replacement engine, the
driver side has a casting number of  22504701-C.  There are also other
markings on the man. too.
There is the # 15 cast by the #1 cyl., below that there is a "wagon
wheel" and the letter "D" next to it on the "body" of the man., next to
that is the cast "T2Y" the the cast which looks like 2 screw heads in an
elongated circle with the #166 followed by the aforementioned casting #.
              The pass. side man. doesn't even look like a stock manifold
and doesn't have the same castings as the other side but it does have a
couple of numbers.  On the back sweep where the man. bolts to the exh.
pipe there is the # 561798(best I could come up with due to rust).  Below
# 8 cyl is the "wagon wheel" with the letter "D", below # 2 is the # 12,
directly under that is something that looks like Y-R(rust again).

              Hope this helps out in some way and in the immortal words
of that great side of bacon
"TH TH TH TH Thats All Folks"

Regards,
                 E.J.

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 19:12:03 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: '67 D-88

> We have access here to '67 D-88 parts.  What front end stuff are you
> looking for?  I've got extra's from my car as well.

Hmmm...  Missed the first part...  This question aimed at me?  :)  Much stuff
similar between the D-88 and Ninety Eight???   You can check out my 
convertible,
and see if they look compatible?

http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/6798conv.htm

(Pretty obvious which parts are needed....)

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 20:44:56 -0500
From: "Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
Subject: Re: 307 Olds. What to do with the '86 Cutlass?

Charles,

>For comparison I'd like to get around 15.0 or better 1/4
>mile performance, although I don't intend to race.
>

Uh, I don't think you'll get the 15.0 second times with a "stock"
VIN 9 engine. From what I hear it's low to high 16's.

For the suspension, you can probably find the parts you need
on a non-442 car. Option F41 was the "Level II Firm Ride and
Handling package". It was (I believe) available on all G-Body
(Olds).

Listed in Olds literature as:

Level II Firm Ride and Handling Suspension System, Includes:
Firm Ride Front and Rear Shock Absorbers, Higher Rate Front
and Rear Springs, Larger Front Stabilizer Bar (1.25 in. Diameter),
Rear Stabilizer Bar (.875 in. Diameter) and Special Steering Gear
12.70:1 Steering Ratio.

That ought to give you the 442 ride...except that 86-87 442's
actually came with rear air-shocks.

- -Mark Tupper    1987 442    (OCA 30666)
 mtupper@palacenet.net        http://www.cyberglyphs.com/442/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 16:39:04 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: 69 type O posi needed

Anybody out there have a posi case for a type O high number ie. 4.10? oh by
the way also for a reasonable price...kk

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 22:16:24 EDT
From: <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: Paint

A question to all the paint experts. I just painted my Rallye 350 with the PPG
Deltron base coat clear coat. I have been using a HVL Sharp 975 paint gun.
Does the gun needed to be adjusted when spraying the clear compared to the
base coat. It seams that the gun is not  getting enough clear out. Also, do
all base coat-clear coats nned to be wet sanded and buffed? Could somebody
explain how to do it?
Thanks,
Jim McKeague

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 22:19:31 EDT
From: <DEOVIVERE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: '65 Cutlass Wheel Covers

In a message dated 98-07-29 20:51:17 EDT, you write:

<< Looking for a set of '65 Cutlass (non-442) spoked wheel covers with two
 pronged knock-off.

 Any ideas or anyone have any ??
  >>

I know that Jim Chermac has a a set of four for a long time, NOS or mint I
seem to remember.

Tom SImmons
65 Cutlass (with spoke wheels and spinners)
70 SX W-32

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 22:26:05 EDT
From: <Cnvrt67@aol.com>
Subject: Re: I need some opinions on stripe color

In a message dated 98-07-29 20:51:56 EDT, you write:

<< What I
 was thinking about is a alcohol type flame coming from the front end. What do
 you think? >>


NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!

MY .02

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible
http://members.aol.com/Cnvrt67/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 19:28:16 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: My Olds isn't  shaking

It was caused by the distributor. The cam that opens the points had worn
down .

thanks  people.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 19:19:38 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Paint

the gun probably needs to be adjusted the clear isnt the same weight as the
color and the finish only needs to be wet sanded and buffed if you are not
satisfied with the finish as is such as orange peel runs etc
if you decide to wet sand then use a backing pad maguires sells one and so
does 3m they keep the sand paper flat start with 600 grit do one panel at a
time stay away from the edges and body lines use a soapy water mixture sand
until the finish is evenly dull no further this will be when the orange peel
is gone then switch to 1000 grit and repeat in the 90 degree direction until
you see no more 600 grit scratches then start with maguires #3 followed by #
2 then finish with
#7 show car glaze this will be the final coating the wax should be carnauba
paste wax  but any wax will dull the #7 finish hope this helps...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: DROLDS350@aol.com <DROLDS350@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Cc: DROLDS350@aol.com <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, July 29, 1998 7:19 PM
Subject: Paint


>A question to all the paint experts. I just painted my Rallye 350 with the
PPG
>Deltron base coat clear coat. I have been using a HVL Sharp 975 paint gun.
>Does the gun needed to be adjusted when spraying the clear compared to the
>base coat. It seams that the gun is not  getting enough clear out. Also, do
>all base coat-clear coats nned to be wet sanded and buffed? Could somebody
>explain how to do it?
>Thanks,
>Jim McKeague

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 19:19:38 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Paint

the gun probably needs to be adjusted the clear isnt the same weight as the
color and the finish only needs to be wet sanded and buffed if you are not
satisfied with the finish as is such as orange peel runs etc
if you decide to wet sand then use a backing pad maguires sells one and so
does 3m they keep the sand paper flat start with 600 grit do one panel at a
time stay away from the edges and body lines use a soapy water mixture sand
until the finish is evenly dull no further this will be when the orange peel
is gone then switch to 1000 grit and repeat in the 90 degree direction until
you see no more 600 grit scratches then start with maguires #3 followed by #
2 then finish with
#7 show car glaze this will be the final coating the wax should be carnauba
paste wax  but any wax will dull the #7 finish hope this helps...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: DROLDS350@aol.com <DROLDS350@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Cc: DROLDS350@aol.com <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, July 29, 1998 7:19 PM
Subject: Paint


>A question to all the paint experts. I just painted my Rallye 350 with the
PPG
>Deltron base coat clear coat. I have been using a HVL Sharp 975 paint gun.
>Does the gun needed to be adjusted when spraying the clear compared to the
>base coat. It seams that the gun is not  getting enough clear out. Also, do
>all base coat-clear coats nned to be wet sanded and buffed? Could somebody
>explain how to do it?
>Thanks,
>Jim McKeague

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1395
*********************************
