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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1338


oldsmobile-digest        Monday, June 29 1998        Volume 01 : Number 1338



shifter cable bracket
Can't live an automatic anymore
Re: rear disc(my two bits)
Re: metro vs. soft seal?
350 to 455 g-body
Re: shifter cable bracket
Re: 65 Oldsmobile 98
Re: lifter question, HELP
Re: 350 to 455 g-body
Re: Ch*vy+Olds = I DON'T THINK SO!!!
Re: Transmissions, Bandwidth, Web Pages
Hurst Shift Kit
Re: rear disc(my two bits)
Re: Can't live an automatic anymore
RE: lifter question, HELP
Re: metro vs. soft seal?
RE: lifter question, HELP
G-tech G meter, real or phoney?
Alabama Toro
RE: lifter question, HELP
RE: re street race
Re: G-tech G meter, real or phoney?
Re: rear brake shoes not wearing
Re: Brake Shoes: which is which
Re: G-tech G meter, real or phoney?
D'em drums
Traded Dell for Hot Rod Vista Cruiser
Couple of questions
RE: Ch*vy+Olds = I DON'T THINK SO!!!
Re: lifter question, HELP
Re: Couple of questions
RE: Couple of questions
Re: Spark Plug Gap?
Re: Temp (cooling) questions + some
Re: Hurst Shift Kit
mileage question
Re: mileage question
Re: Questions about 78 Cutlass race car.
Re: mileage question
Re: Yard Humor - Long
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1337
Re: Questions about 78 Cutlass race car.
Re: metro vs. soft seal?/further questions!
Re: metro vs. soft seal?/further questions!
UNBOUNCE: Hot Rod Vista
Re: rear disc(my two bits)
Exhaust manifold and HEI wanted
Re: D'em drums
Re: mileage question
Re: rear disc(my two bits)
Re: chrome off now what
Re: Ch*vy+Olds = I DON'T THINK SO!!!
Help
Re: 66 Cutless Value
Re: rear disc(my two bits)
RE: rear disc(my two bits)
RE: Adios
RE: rear disc(my two bits)
new hot wheels 442
RE: '69 w30 and w31 owners
unsubscribe
olds for sale

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 09:12:22 -0500
From: "Kijowski, Stan" <SKIJOWSKI@midland.com>
Subject: shifter cable bracket

i have a 1972 cutlass supreme convertible with a floor shifter. i just
swapped the 350/350 motor/tranny for a 455/400 combo.

*   i just realized that the bracket that attaches the shifter cable to the
350 tranny is different than the bracket needed to attach the cable to the
400 tranny. i need the 400 tranny/floor shift cable mounting bracket.

*   is the "u" shaped/steering linkage bracket that the end of the shifter
cable attaches to different on the 350 vs 400 tranny. the reason i ask is
that the 350 tranny that i took out, had a "u" shape bracket with an
integral extension coming out of the bottom for the shift cable to attach to
and the "u" shaped bracket that came with the 400 tranny does not have the
shift cable attachment extension. i am assuming the the 400 plain "u"
bracket may have been for a column shift set up. if this is the case, would
the 350 "end of cable/steering linkage" mounting bracket work on the 400
tranny?
i have asked other people on the web but have not heard back yet and i
figured my odds of finding the right bracket(s) would increase dramatically
(just in case they don't have what i need)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 09:18:01 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Can't live an automatic anymore

I made my first step towards converting my '71 cutlass (350/TH350) to
a stick shift.  I got the clutch pedal assembly with Z-bar, ball stud,
steering column bracket thingy, neutral switch, etc.  The only part it
is missing is the shaft that the Z-bar pushes on.

Ultimately, this is going to be a 455 and Richmond Gear 6-speed combo.
Of course that is a $8000 job.

I'm thinking of getting all the manual stuff and a used 4-speed for
the time being.  It will be huge pain the as*, but I can remove the
crank from the 350 and have it drilled.  I need a new oil pump anyway
(low pressure).

Questions:

1) can the crank be pulled, drilled, and installed using the same
bearings and everything? (the motor only has 40,000miles on the
rebuild)

2) is buying a used 4-speed a bad idea?

3) If the four speed is installed and running, the six speed should be
a direct and easy bolt in right?

4) Will the clutch setup work with my blackjack headers?

5) Aftermarket, or used original bellhousing?

6) What kind and size of clutch will I need?

7)Should I wait until I have the money to do all of this at once
(could be years)

I could also sell the car and buy a stick shift

No I can't live with an automatic car anymore.

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 10:18:51 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: rear disc(my two bits)

And if you don't belive me ask anyone with a W brake system (lumina, gran
prix,regal)that had to spend 500 dollars Canadian on the rears only and see
if they don't wish they had rear drum
well that my input on the subject :)
rick
1972 442
_______________

Sorry, I don't understand that comment, Rick.  My wife's W-body 92 Gran
Sport has over 100,000 miles and I've done the back brakes a couple of
times for significantly less money than that.  Got lifetime guarantee pads
(approx $50) and had the rotors turned.  Total well under $100 (that's in
_real_ dollars, BTW) the first time and even less after that since the new
pads were free the second time - just had to pay to turn the rotors.  Oh, I
did have to buy the KD tool for retracting the pistons also.

I should note that the problem with this car (and virtually all new cars)
is that in the interest of saving weight, the rotors have very little
excess metal on them (like only 0.050" over the minimum thickness even when
new).  In combination with the rotor wear from metallic pads, you're
unlikely to get more than two turnings out of a set of rotors.  This isn't
a generic disc brake problem, it's a problem of rotors designed thin to
start with in this particular application.

While it may not have the acceleration of a "real" Buick GS, the car stops
_very_ well.  Now, the CS130 alternator, on the other hand...

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 11:21:49 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: metro vs. soft seal?

I have bought products from both. I used SoffSeal door w/s (on the bottom
half of the door) on my Skylark and it was fine. I used Metro's
convertible roofrail kit also on the same car and it was fine too.

I have seen a couple of owners dissatisfied with Soffseal's roofrail
weatherstrip. It (despite the name) is not soft enough and prevents the
door from closing easily. I hear Metro's version of this is better but
have not seen it.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 16:20:17 +0200
From: "TRONDJARLE PEDERSEN" <trondped@c2i.net>
Subject: 350 to 455 g-body

hay fellows.

I`m trying to mount a 455 in a friends 80 cutlass, got 455 motor mounts from a
70 442 just to diskover that the frame mounts are different :-( can i use frame
mounts frome a transam?????? If not will I be able to build new ones(modify the
old ones) talked to some suplyers of parts and there is no one that has theme
here in Norway and the engine has to be in by friday!!!!!   HELP...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 07:33:21 PDT
From: "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: shifter cable bracket


 i just put on a hurst shifter on my 75 delta 88 with a th350,
it gave me custom mounting bracket for all trannys i used the one for
the th350 ,but if you need the one for the th400 or any others drop me a
line and i can send you a bag of them


>i have a 1972 cutlass supreme convertible with a floor shifter.
>swapped the 350/350 motor/tranny for a 455/400 combo.
>
>*   i just realized that the bracket that attaches the shifter cable to
the
>350 tranny is different than the bracket needed to attach the cable to
the
>400 tranny.

  My  -------   -------
            /  |
           /   |
          /     ------
         /            |
        /             |
       /        ------    DELTA 88
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 07:35:28 -0700 (MST)
From: angst@primenet.com (Dustin Robinette)
Subject: Re: 65 Oldsmobile 98

>Interested in finding out if my one owner 1965 Olds 98 4 door has any value.
>If so, then how much?? Also, how many were built that year and how many are
>still in existence today.  Any information is very much appreciated. Thanks!!
>
>My Olds 98 has 98,000 original miles and I believe it is a Holiday sedan.
Are  the 1966 VIN  compatible with 1965?  This is to help make sure that my
1965 Olds 98 is the holiday model. If not, where can I look up or find VIN
for 65 Olds. Thanks!

>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 09:46:39 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@leadbelt.com
Subject: Re: lifter question, HELP

>I have installed my rockers and torqued them down to specs but have noticed
>that I can still move most of them (move freeley).  The inside of the
>lifter seems to be easily pushed it.    <<snip>>

The instructions with my lifters said to put them in oil & pump plunger with
pushrod or similar -----i.e. fill them up with oil----

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 10:38:56 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: 350 to 455 g-body

> I`m trying to mount a 455 in a friends 80 cutlass, got 455 motor mounts from 
a
70 442 just to diskover that the frame mounts are different :-( can i use frame
mounts frome a transam??????

You probably can get away with using the existing 350 mounts. (assuming
the car had an Olds V8 originally) Physically, they will bolt up to a
455 block, and the engine SHOULD line up with existing frame mounts.

You want to ensure that you check the fitment of EVERYTHING as the
engine is going in.  Interference with other components.  The 350 mounts
will have the engine sitting taller in the engine bay than if you could
use big engine mounts, but I think everything will do ok, as long as you
use a standard intake manifold and drop base air cleaner for hood
clearance.  Besides, with using the 350 frame mounts you can ensure the
correct angular alignment will remain undisturbed.

Good luck,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 10:40:43 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Ch*vy+Olds = I DON'T THINK SO!!!

...Why???  Well, for the knowledgeable competitors, they can look in and
say, why yes, he ~does~ have a small block...
_____________________

I'd guess that anyone knowledgable enough to tell a big block Olds from a
small block would likely also be able to tell a diesel block form a regular
350.


...Most won't notice the big block, but some would.  A stealth thing, ya
know.  Combining the torque of a big block with the physical size of a
small block...
______________________

And the weight of a diesel...

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 07:58:55 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Transmissions, Bandwidth, Web Pages

Padavano.Joe@orbital.com wrote:

> Careful what you ask for, John.  If Ray puts his pics up, I'll be forced to
> pollute the web with pics of _my_ Dirty W-30 (as it was so aptly christened

No not that! :-)

> by someone in Cap City Rockets).  Can the DC area stand _two_ ratty 70
> W-30s?  Or I'll send Chris Sparks and others running with pics of my H/O
> (it's not a pretty sight).  'Course, you're the guy that has pics of your
> unfinished _garage_ on your web page in addition to your cars ;-)

Please no ugly pics! :-)

> Seriously, I agree.  Getting pics of the projects up for all to see lends
> support and motivation to keep working on them (well, it would for me, at
> least)

I promise to get pictures of Scarlet up soon on my web page.  I won't put
pics of Saffron up since I am a little embarrassed by its rust! :-)

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 11:25:52 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Hurst Shift Kit

I was looking at the package this Hurst "Hot Shift 2" kit came in. You
can build it up 2 different ways, one for "heavy-duty" use (they quote
police, taxi, ambulance, etc.) and another for street/strip. It also
appears (since you need to drill holes in different places) that once you
decide on one you can't go back and try the other unless you buy another
kit.

I'm looking for a fairly conservative change so I'm leaning towards the
"heavy duty" one, but has anyone used this particular kit that can tell
me what one or the other is like? I'd hate to go the "street/strip" route
and have a tranny that shifts so hard I can't live with it.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 11:29:46 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: rear disc(my two bits)

On Mon, 29 Jun 1998 Padavano.Joe@orbital.com wrote:
> And if you don't belive me ask anyone with a W brake system (lumina, gran
> prix,regal)that had to spend 500 dollars Canadian on the rears only and see
> if they don't wish they had rear drum
> well that my input on the subject :)
> _______________
>
> Sorry, I don't understand that comment, Rick.  My wife's W-body 92 Gran
<snip>

Joe, the problem Rick is referring to is well-known up here in the salt
belt. Apparently the design of that particular brake system allows
corosion to take hold quite quickly and renders the calipers and hardware
useless in short order. It was even the subject of a piece on one of the
motoring TV shows here. Whether that is characteristic of all rear disk
systems or just this one, I dunno, but this one is definitely problematic.


Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 10:59:59 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Can't live an automatic anymore

Questions:
1) can the crank be pulled, drilled, and installed using the same
bearings and everything? (the motor only has 40,000miles on the
rebuild)

    It can, but bearings are cheap.  Especially if you spin one 20,000
    miles later.
2) is buying a used 4-speed a bad idea?

    No, but inspect carefully.  Ideally, (like this will ever happen) get
    one from a running car so you can verify it works.  At a minimum, pull
    the side cover to check the gears.
3) If the four speed is installed and running, the six speed should be
a direct and easy bolt in right?

    Give me a break.  This is an Olds, right.  _Nothing_ is a direct and
    easy bolt-in.  From what I can tell, the Richmond setup will require
    relocating the crossmember, a new driveshaft, and a different shifter.
    If you're planning on using the original console, you'll likely need to
    do some fabrication with the shifter.
4) Will the clutch setup work with my blackjack headers?

    Tough call.  Expect problems with the Z-bar that may require
    "customizing" the headers.  It's a b*tch in any case.
5) Aftermarket, or used original bellhousing?

    Depends on if you want a blowshield or not.  For a street-driven car,
    the stock aluminum is fine.  A blowshield will take up even more space
    around those headers.
6) What kind and size of clutch will I need?

    350s used 10.5", big blocks used 11".  You _can_ run an 11" behide a
    350 (done it) as the flywheels are drilled for both.  This way, when
    you get the 455, the clutch will fit ('course at that point, you
    MIGHTASWELL get a new one...)

    I've tried a bunch of different clutches, and the Centerforce I have
    now is the best I've used.
7)Should I wait until I have the money to do all of this at once
(could be years)

    You mean the 455 and 6 spd?  Nah, go ahead and jump in now.  With the
    exception of the used 4spd, everything else is useable when you
    upgrade.
    Joe Padavano
    padavano.joe@orbital.com

    66 442
    68 W-30
    69 H/O
    70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 11:11:36 -0400
From: "Wagner, John" <WagnerJo@pios.com>
Subject: RE: lifter question, HELP

Unless I'm missing something..You can't just "Torque" the lifters down.
The looseness or tightness of the lifters depend on the cam lobe
position. Hydraulic lifters shouldn't be wobbly loose at all..the way
I've always done hydraulics is to tighten them down somewhat, rotate the
engine by hand until both valves go closed, then tighten to spec. You
have to rotate the engine several times to get all the valves closed in
sequence to the firing order.

I've also gotten them somewhat tightened, then started the engine and
put X number of turns once the clacking stops ! Usually 1.5 to 2 turns.

Not sure this is appropriate for your situation...

John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 11:12:16 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: metro vs. soft seal?

I have seen a couple of owners dissatisfied with Soffseal's roofrail
weatherstrip. It (despite the name) is not soft enough and prevents the
door from closing easily. I hear Metro's version of this is better but
have not seen it.
Greg Beaulieu
_______________

I'd have to agree.  While I'm a long way from installing the roofrail W/S,
I ordered a complete Soffseal rubber and seal kit for my 66.  First thing I
found out was that their window fuzzies use the incorrect flat bead, so I
had them delete these from the kit.  Next, when I received the kit, I found
that, as Greg mentioned, the roofrail W/S seemed significanly stiffer than
the original.  Don't know whether I'll try it or just get something else.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 11:14:51 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: RE: lifter question, HELP

I've also gotten them somewhat tightened, then started the engine and
put X number of turns once the clacking stops ! Usually 1.5 to 2 turns.
Not sure this is appropriate for your situation...
John
____________

Ah, John,  you've been working on those dreaded Chevy motors too long.
Oldsmobile's non-adjustable rocker arms precludes you from using the audio
method of adjustment.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 10:28:40 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: G-tech G meter, real or phoney?

Anyone seen, used, heard stories about the G-tech PRO accelerometer?
They have a web page at http://www.gtechpro.com that sounds really
cool.

It's supposed to give super accurate 0-60, 1/4mile, trap speed, 60-0,
horsepower, and G-force.  All for $140.  Sounds like a bunch of bull
until I read the web page, then it seems like it could work.

It just reminds me too much of the "radar jammers" that were being
sold for $200 that don't do anything.

So what is it, real or phony?

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 10:25:32 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Alabama Toro

While on vacation this past week I was in Huntsville AL on Friday afternoon
and evening to pick up my oldest son (the geeky one who is not interested in
Oldsmobiles) from space camp.  I stopped to get another tank of gas in the van
when a beautiful 68 Toronado pulls in on the other side of the  pumps.
It is teal green with the bumpers painted to match and the window trim is
blacked out.  If you did not know better you would think it was a new car from
the looks of the paint scheme.  I talked with the owner, I am terrible with
names so I immediately forgot it, and he tells me he went to Lansing last year
also, is on the Toro list and etc, etc.  This chance encounter with another
Olds owner was a highlight of the vacation.  Michael (on a class trip to
Washington D.C.) my other son, who has his head on straight and loves
Oldsmobiles was not with us and missed seeing this gem of an Olds, I rubbed it
in when we were all home.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 11:30:45 -0400
From: "Wagner, John" <WagnerJo@pios.com>
Subject: RE: lifter question, HELP

You're right..you caught me. Although my 455 has roller rockers and no
girdle !

John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 11:32:00 -0400
From: "Felix, Josh " <Josh.Felix@turner.com>
Subject: RE: re street race

     where is this i want to come and watch!!!

     Josh
     67 Cutlass
     425 / TH400


______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
Subject: re street race
Author:  "Jack Karamanos" [SMTP:jalkara@whidbey.net] at TBSCENTRAL
Date:    6/28/98 10:33 PM


around here they are low 11s, tubbed caged and juiced and blown,
industrial areas and airport roads, and much change changing hands, in the
am

47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 10:31:20 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: G-tech G meter, real or phoney?

It worked in my car.  Accurate to 1/10 of a second on the track.
I thought it was phony at first.
Physics say it would work, but just like radar jammers.......
Brett Wilson
67 Cutlass Convertible
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gregory Zimmerman <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
To: Olds list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, June 29, 1998 10:20 AM
Subject: G-tech G meter, real or phoney?


>Anyone seen, used, heard stories about the G-tech PRO accelerometer?
>They have a web page at http://www.gtechpro.com that sounds really
>cool.
>
>It's supposed to give super accurate 0-60, 1/4mile, trap speed, 60-0,
>horsepower, and G-force.  All for $140.  Sounds like a bunch of bull
>until I read the web page, then it seems like it could work.
>
>It just reminds me too much of the "radar jammers" that were being
>sold for $200 that don't do anything.
>
>So what is it, real or phony?
>
>-greg
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 11:38:43 EDT
From: <AceFace007@aol.com>
Subject: Re: rear brake shoes not wearing

Pull your rear wheels off one at a time and check each wheel cylinder for
leaks. Have someone press your break pedal and watch for leaks and also to see
if they are working. If leaking rebuild/replace. If not working, move upwards
and check lines and valves. If working, they are not adjusteed properly. Check
and make sure the adjuster pawl is working. It should spin the starwheel when
you pull your emergency break or when you stop in reverse depending on what
kind of auto adjuster you have. If it is working, make sure that you have the
the adjusters on the correct way and on the correct side. Left and right sides
are not interchangable. They have opposite threads.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 11:47:58 EDT
From: <AceFace007@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Shoes: which is which

Depending on what brand you bought....on should be bigger in some way. There
are different combinations that may confuse you too. The shorter one always
goes in the front. Now, sometimes they are the same length. Check for
thickness and also the width. As far as width, the thinner would be just like
the shorter, your primary, which goes in the front. Now here is the confusing
combo. They could be the same length and width, but one may have thicker
friction material. The thicker on is your primary, which once again goes in
the front. This is because your primaries wear more because they provide 80%
of your stopping power...unless you drive in reverse more than you do
forwards! =)

Willie
'57 Olds Super 88

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 08:47:05 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: G-tech G meter, real or phoney?

Gregory Zimmerman wrote:

> So what is it, real or phony?

Sounds phony to me.

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 08:49:00 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: D'em drums

Is there a way to adjust the rear brakes so that they don't lock up so
easily in a 4-drum
setup?

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 98 12:02:59 -0500
From: Darren Shroeger <shroeger@traverse.com>
Subject: Traded Dell for Hot Rod Vista Cruiser

Hello all,

I am the proud new owner of a 71 Vista Cruiser!
The car is optioned as follows:

* 455 4-barrel
* Two-seater black interior
* Gold paint (trim tag code 53) with woodgrain vinyl
* SSI wheels (!), disk brakes
* HOT ROD California vanity plate on front (heh, heh)

Does anyone have production quantities for this model?

This is a nice clean car; it was actually the company
car for a Florida window tinting company! The rear
windows are darkly tinted and upon cleaning them I
noticed the removed 'Window film by Tilton' lettering
along with their Florida phone number!

It is currently wearing a coat of Firemist Gold like the
used on the 69 H/O, but I plan to put it back to the correct
greenish-gold (Anyone know the name for paint code 53?).

The car had a Holley spreadbore carb and big chrome open
element aircleaner... Just replaced them yesterday with
correct 7041251 Quadrajet and 71 black aircleaner.

It also has a later-style EGR 4V intake and GM HEI fitted.
I was surprised when my pre-HEI aircleaner fit without
hitting the HEI.

I plan to go with a Mondello 22-25/110 cam and a quicker
rear gear (perhaps 3.23 posi) to liven up the performance.
I will change over to the correct 71 intake and treat it
to new timing set, lifters, etc. at that time as well.

Which plug is recommended for high performance use with HEI?
I saw a post which talked about using NGK 5670-6 with an
MSD 6AL ignition box. I guess I could use my MSD box for this
car if it would really help... I was planning on saving it for
my 68 442 though. Any other options I should explore here?





- -Darren Shroeger
dshroeger@traverse.com
68 442 (G400/4-speed)
72 Vista Cruiser (350/TH400)
68 Delmont 88 (350/TH400): traded for...
71 Vista Cruiser (455/TH400)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 11:08:12 -0500
From: "David A. Popadic" <davepop@execpc.com>
Subject: Couple of questions

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I have a 67 Cultass Convertible.  There is a lit (white) by the driver's =
side door (on the dash)  What is this for?

Also the engine in the car is not the org.  All I know (or been told) is =
that it's a 350.  How do I determine what year and who made it (ie for =
plugs, filters, etc).=20

- ------=_NextPart_000_006B_01BDA34E.351E59C0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have a 67 Cultass =
Convertible.&nbsp; There is=20
a lit (white) by the driver's side door (on the dash)&nbsp; What is this =

for?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Also the engine in the car is not =
the org.&nbsp;=20
All I know (or been told) is that it's a 350.&nbsp; How do I determine =
what year=20
and who made it (ie for plugs, filters, =
etc).&nbsp;</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_006B_01BDA34E.351E59C0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 08:05:55 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: RE: Ch*vy+Olds = I DON'T THINK SO!!!

Pardon me for my ignorance, but why not just start with a 403 Old Small
Block to begin with?  Overbore it 0.030 and you're probably pretty close to
412.

Tom.

- ----------
From:  Jim & Jo Chermack[SMTP:chermac@exis.net]
Sent:  Sunday, June 28, 1998 8:18 PM
To:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:  Re: Ch*vy+Olds = I DON'T THINK SO!!!

         Putting the 400/425 crank in a 350 Olds will yield a very large
small block. It comes close to a 412 cu in engine. You basically have a
65-67 400 with a .057 overbore but in a small block vice a big block. It
can
and has been done. One heck of a way to hide those cubes.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 12:32:10 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: lifter question, HELP

I've also gotten them somewhat tightened, then started the engine and
put X number of turns once the clacking stops ! Usually 1.5 to 2 turns.


How many pushrods have you bent?  You shouldn't go more than 1/2 a turn.
When you did this did you notice the car idle decrease?  Engine run rough?
If you did that many turns you just robbed yourself of some performance.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 11:39:45 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: Couple of questions

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Light possibly is a brake light (i.e. emergency brake or low brake fluid =
indicator.)
The engine codes are on the olds FAQ at www.442.com.

Brett Wilson

    -----Original Message-----
    From: David A. Popadic <davepop@execpc.com>
    To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
    Date: Monday, June 29, 1998 11:25 AM
    Subject: Couple of questions
   =20
   =20
    I have a 67 Cultass Convertible.  There is a lit (white) by the =
driver's side door (on the dash)  What is this for?
    =20
    Also the engine in the car is not the org.  All I know (or been =
told) is that it's a 350.  How do I determine what year and who made it =
(ie for plugs, filters, etc).=20

- ------=_NextPart_000_00C3_01BDA352.9D5856E0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Light possibly is a brake light =
(i.e. emergency=20
brake or low brake fluid indicator.)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The engine codes are on the olds FAQ at <A=20
href=3D"http://www.442.com">www.442.com.</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Brett Wilson</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>David A. Popadic &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:davepop@execpc.com">davepop@execpc.com</A>&gt;<BR><B>To: =
</B><A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A> =
&lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Monday, June 29, 1998 11:25 AM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Couple of=20
    questions<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have a 67 Cultass =
Convertible.&nbsp; There=20
    is a lit (white) by the driver's side door (on the dash)&nbsp; What =
is this=20
    for?</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Also the engine in the car is =
not the=20
    org.&nbsp; All I know (or been told) is that it's a 350.&nbsp; How =
do I=20
    determine what year and who made it (ie for plugs, filters,=20
    etc).&nbsp;</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_00C3_01BDA352.9D5856E0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 12:39:00 -0400
From: "Felix, Josh " <Josh.Felix@turner.com>
Subject: RE: Couple of questions

     This light is the brake like.

     Josh
     67 Cutlass
     425 / TH400


______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
Subject: Couple of questions
Author:  "David A. Popadic" [SMTP:davepop@execpc.com] at TBSCENTRAL
Date:    6/29/98 8:29 AM


I have a 67 Cultass Convertible.  There is a lit (white) by the driver's
side
door (on the dash)  What is this for?
 
Also the engine in the car is not the org.  All I know (or been told) is
that
it's a 350.  How do I determine what year and who made it (ie for plugs,
filters, etc). 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 12:53:49 EDT
From: <WMACHINES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Gap?

In a message dated 98-06-29 01:28:53 EDT, you write:

<<   I am getting ready to install a set of NGK 5670-6 spark plugs and
 was wondering what to gap these plugs at?   I have a MSD box and Mallory
 Unilite Distributor and have usually ran AC plugs at .040. but since
 these plugs are different with the V-groove should I gap the new ones at
 .040 also?  Thanks again.
  >>
gap them at .040 to .045.  Your call really.  I run the 5670-7's gapped at
.045

W MACHINES

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 12:59:22 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Temp (cooling) questions + some

In a message dated 98-06-26 16:59:32 EDT, you write:

<<  I thinned the mix a bit by draining a gal. or so and filling with water.
>>

Keep an empty gallon container of antifreeze on hand. Fill half with water and
and half with antifreeze from a new gallon container. Refill the new container
with water. That way you have two ready mixed gallons for when you need it.
Just a tip
Bruce

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 13:03:29 EDT
From: <Jon442@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Hurst Shift Kit

I have had experience with B&M's version of a shift kit. I recommend the
"taxi" version. The strip version is pretty hard, and you would probably tire
of it quickly.

Jon

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 13:23:49 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: mileage question

How come a car's wear and tear  is judged in mileage instead of
hours?(aiplanes are judged in hours). For  instance, you could let yor car
engine idle for 100 hours. you wouldn't have any mileage on the car, but there
would certainly be wear and tear on the engine. Just wondering.
Bruce

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 12:23:34 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Re: mileage question

JonKrisInc@aol.com wrote:
>
> How come a car's wear and tear  is judged in mileage instead of
> hours?(aiplanes are judged in hours). For  instance, you could let yor car
> engine idle for 100 hours. you wouldn't have any mileage on the car, but 
there
> would certainly be wear and tear on the engine. Just wondering.
> Bruce

The reason for this is that the "average" consumer automobile spends
very little time "idling" in comparison to miles of operation. Taxi cabs
and police cars are measured in terms of hours - as they spend much time
"idling"


Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Cutlass "S"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 13:29:49 -0400
From: Ken <olds442@en.com>
Subject: Re: Questions about 78 Cutlass race car.

Greg Rollin wrote:

(2) What type of ladder bars did somebody weld on?  How good does the

> craftsmanship look on the bars and the cage?  A 1" difference sends up a very
> large red flag to me (or in this case black flag)  I would be very suspect of
an > ill handling car.  Or at least one that pitched drive shafts on a regular
basis.

The car has the stock rear frame.  Plates were welded in the usual rust out
areas. The car would be back halved this winter if I choose to buy it.   The
welds on the cage look good and the areas of the floor where the cage goes thru
were cut out nicely.  The ladder bars are clamped to the rearend with big
u-bolts.  There is a crossmember welded in the middle of the car where the
ladder bars attach in the front. There are three adjustment holes on the
crossmember going up and down each about an inch apart.

 I asked the current owner about the rear being off.  A better description is
that with the hoosier 10" slicks on it the drivers side is dead even with the
lip on the fender well, while the passenger side is sticking out of the fender
well by about 1/2-1". Anyways, the guy said "all olds,chevelles pontiacs, are
spaced 1 inch over from factory," I take this to mean that when they race em
they always move the rear over 1". It could also be taken to mean that they 
come
like that from the factory, which I doubt. Anyone ever heard of this practice?

Ken
olds442@en.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 13:29:45 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: mileage question

How come a car's wear and tear  is judged in mileage instead of
hours?(aiplanes are judged in hours). For  instance, you could let yor car
engine idle for 100 hours. you wouldn't have any mileage on the car, but
there
would certainly be wear and tear on the engine. Just wondering.
Bruce
__________

I'm guessing that it's because cars come with odometers and not hour
meters.  The reality is that both would be useful metrics for determining
wear and tear.  As you correctly point out, hours are a better indication
of engine wear (though not infallible - 1000 hours of taxi service is
different from 1000 hours of freeway driving - though I couldn't tell you
which is worse).  Driveline components, on the other hand, wear in a direct
relationship to mileage (though, again, highway miles are different from
city miles).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 10:47:25 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Yard Humor - Long

> 13. Locking Lug Nut Removal Tool - aka #10. Three pound sledge
> hammer and large chisel. You never find the locking lug nut key
> in the car so you need to use the three pounder to break the
> stud or using the chisel, slowly rotate the locking nut with
> mild hits and at unusual angle.

Well, I guess this will be one way to spot Buick list members at
the junkyard.  :-)  Meanwhile, the rest of us will simply bang a
metric socket over the end of the lug nut/puzzle nut and quickly
unscrew it like any other lug nut.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 13:50:37 EDT
From: <Skimmerbox@aol.com>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1337

 hey everybody

I'm new to this list but not new to oldsmobiles.  I love 'em- I've had three
cars so far and 2 of them were 1980 cutlasses.  that of coarse being my
favorite body style, if I'm not mistaken It is the last year of that body
style and the first year with the 4 headlight system.
But to my dismay, on father's day I got into an accident with it.  (front 3/4
nose) I had big plans for it though wich makes it even harder to get rid of
it. I saved very few parts from my first one (no room) and I'm not making that
mistake twice. So, if there are any of you olds junkies looking for parts for
that bodystyle or "swappable" parts e-mail me direct. (to keep traffic down)
I'd rather the parts go to true olds guys than the local junk yard - happy
oldsmobile'n

1980 cutlass
address: skimmerbox@aol.com


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 13:01:05 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: Questions about 78 Cutlass race car.

I don't know about a 78, but my 70 and many other A-bodies have the rear end
offset in them.  I found out about this in 1974 when I mounted a set of H-50
15's on 15 X 10 wheels.  The left side had clearance and the right side white
letters rubbed the inside of the wheel opening.  I got to checking with other
owners of A-bodies and found this to be common among all of their cars.
Everyone might be suprised if they went out and measured their own cars.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 16:05:12 EDT
From: <W30442CS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: metro vs. soft seal?/further questions!

well part of my problem is that im looking for out side window seals that have
3/4" wide chrome trim on them. year one has them from soft seal, but had hoped
to go with metro.  does anyone on the list distribute for metro?  or know
someone who does?  tia.              steven,  w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 15:36:38 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@leadbelt.com
Subject: Re: metro vs. soft seal?/further questions!

<<snipped>>
>.  does anyone on the list distribute for metro?  or know
>someone who does?  tia.              steven,  w30442cs@aol.com
>

Metro will sell directly to you. 800.878.2237

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 17:05:09 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Hot Rod Vista

I know Darren used to be on the list, maybe not any longer; so respond to
shroeger@traverse.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Subject: Traded Dell for Hot Rod Vista Cruiser
From:	Darren Shroeger <shroeger@traverse.com>

Hello all,

I am the proud new owner of a 71 Vista Cruiser!
The car is optioned as follows:

* 455 4-barrel
* Two-seater black interior
* Gold paint (trim tag code 53) with woodgrain vinyl
* SSI wheels (!), disk brakes
* HOT ROD California vanity plate on front (heh, heh)

Does anyone have production quantities for this model?

This is a nice clean car; it was actually the company
car for a Florida window tinting company! The rear
windows are darkly tinted and upon cleaning them I
noticed the removed 'Window film by Tilton' lettering
along with their Florida phone number!

It is currently wearing a coat of Firemist Gold like the
used on the 69 H/O, but I plan to put it back to the correct
greenish-gold (Anyone know the name for paint code 53?).

The car had a Holley spreadbore carb and big chrome open
element aircleaner... Just replaced them yesterday with
correct 7041251 Quadrajet and 71 black aircleaner.

It also has a later-style EGR 4V intake and GM HEI fitted.
I was surprised when my pre-HEI aircleaner fit without
hitting the HEI.

I plan to go with a Mondello 22-25/110 cam and a quicker
rear gear (perhaps 3.23 posi) to liven up the performance.
I will change over to the correct 71 intake and treat it
to new timing set, lifters, etc. at that time as well.

Which plug is recommended for high performance use with HEI?
I saw a post which talked about using NGK 5670-6 with an
MSD 6AL ignition box. I guess I could use my MSD box for this
car if it would really help... I was planning on saving it for
my 68 442 though. Any other options I should explore here?





- -Darren Shroeger
dshroeger@traverse.com
68 442 (G400/4-speed)
72 Vista Cruiser (350/TH400)
68 Delmont 88 (350/TH400): traded for...
71 Vista Cruiser (455/TH400)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 16:46:37 EDT
From: <DiscoOzzy@aol.com>
Subject: Re: rear disc(my two bits)

In a message dated 6/28/98 4:35:13 AM !!!First Boot!!!, truric@imag.net
writes:

<< And if you don't belive me ask anyone with a W brake system (lumina, gran
 prix,regal)that had to spend 500 dollars Canadian on the rears only and see
 if they don't wish they had rear drum >>

Since I was invited, I'll give my two cents: I have a 97 Gp with rear disc
brakes. I also have a 78 TA with read disc. Is it worth it? Do they work? I
really don't give a shit. Why? Because they look cool as hell. That's good
enough for me. peace,
Kerry

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 16:44:44 -0400
From: "John Richmond" <richmond@tir.com>
Subject: Exhaust manifold and HEI wanted

I found this ad in the classified ad database at work.
His response to my e-mail is below, if anyone can help him
please e-mail or call Glen directly since he is not a list member.

Classified Ad Title:    Oldsmobile Parts Wanted
 Home Phone:    810-254-5132

 Classified Ad or Event Description:
 Needed Oldsmobile big block exhaust manifolds, and big block hei
 distributor.
Contact Glen Cerven  e-mail: gc19@chrysler.com

John Richmond
richmond@tir.com   or   jwr10@chrysler.com
Warren, MI
72 442/455


>
> Glen Cerven
> 06/29/98 11:31 AM
>
> To:   John W Richmond/IS/Chrysler@Chrysler
> cc:
> Subject:  Re: Olds stuff  (Document link not converted)
>
> THANK YOU FOR WRITING BACK.
>
> I HAVE A '87 CUTLASS SUPREME WITH A '72 455 SHOE-HORNED INTO IT.
>
> THE 307 EXHAUST MANIFOLDS WILL BOLT UP BUT THE PORTS ARE EXTREMELY SMALL
> COMPARED TO THOSE ON THE BIG BLOCK HEADS,  I THINK I WOULD NEED MANIFOLDS
> OFF A CUTLASS BIG BLOCK, BECAUSE I HAVE SEEN ONES OFF A DELTA 88 AND ONES
> OFF A TORNADO AND THEY ARE TOO LONG TO CLEAR MY FIREWALL.  AS FAR AS THE
> DISTRIBUTOR GOES,  I HAVE THE ONE FROM THE 307 AND ONE FROM A 350 THAT IS
> VACUUM ADVANCE WHICH WILL FIT IN THE BLOCK, BUT THEY ARE SO SHORT THAT
THE
> CAP DOES NOT CLEAR THE INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNERS.  IT MIGHT CLEAR A FACTORY
> MANIFOLD BUT I HAVE AN EDLEBROCK AND IT WOULD REQUIRE A TALLER
DISTRIBUTOR
> LIKE THE ONES ON THE '74 455's  OR ????.
>
> IF SOMEONE IN CLUB MIGHT HAVE CUTLASS MANIFOLDS,  OR BIG BLOCK MANIFOLDS
> OUT OF SOME OTHER SMALL TO MIDSIZED  CAR I WOULD BE INTERESTED IN BUYING
> THEM.
>
> THANKS.
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 13:39:03 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: D'em drums

At 08:49 AM 6/29/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Is there a way to adjust the rear brakes so that they don't lock up so
>easily in a 4-drum
>setup?
>

Back of the rear adjusters so they don't grab at all, them adust the fronts
corectly.
now that you are certain the fronts work right (test drive them in a safe
area)
you can start on the rears. Using a brake gauge that measures the inside
of the drum is the easiest way.

How good are the hoses on this car? they can really affect how the system
 operates even if they dont leak by streching and bulging.
__
The old adage about "The early bird catches the worm", only serves
to prove, that the worm would have been better off if he stayed in bed .
                                                                :Lazarus Long

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 13:43:14 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: mileage question

At 01:23 PM 6/29/98 -0400, you wrote:
>How come a car's wear and tear  is judged in mileage instead of
>hours?(aiplanes are judged in hours). For  instance, you could let yor car
>engine idle for 100 hours. you wouldn't have any mileage on the car, but
there
>would certainly be wear and tear on the engine. Just wondering.
>Bruce
>
:shrug::
I work with heavy equipment and it is all measured in hours.
I've allways thought it was stupid to measure miles on a engine.
it does make sense for the drive train though.

Most trucks over 40,000 lbs have a h-meter on the engine and a odometer
for the drivetrain.


__
The old adage about "The early bird catches the worm", only serves
to prove, that the worm would have been better off if he stayed in bed .
                                                                :Lazarus Long

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 13:58:06 PDT
From: "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: rear disc(my two bits)

><< And if you don't belive me ask anyone with a W brake system (lumina,
gran
> prix,regal)that had to spend 500 dollars Canadian on the rears only
and see
> if they don't wish they had rear drum >>
>
>Since I was invited, I'll give my two cents: I have a 97 Gp with rear
disc
>brakes. I also have a 78 TA with read disc. Is it worth it? Do they
work? I
>really don't give a shit. Why? Because they look cool as hell. That's
good
>enough for me. peace,
>Kerry
>
   right on bro!

  My  -------   -------
            /  |
           /   |
          /     ------
         /            |
        /             |
       /        ------    DELTA 88
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 17:08:23 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: chrome off now what

I did this a couple of years ago....Just took some Testor's model
paint...it looks pretty good, but not great...

art

Surmise@aol.com wrote:
>
> I alsotook my peeling chrome off the plastic dash.  Really don't want to send
> the dash out to rechrome it.  Anyone have any ideas on painting or covering a
> 67 dash?
>
> John
> 67 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 17:16:06 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Ch*vy+Olds = I DON'T THINK SO!!!

Tom Lentz wrote:
>
> Pardon me for my ignorance, but why not just start with a 403 Old Small
> Block to begin with?  Overbore it 0.030 and you're probably pretty close to
> 412.
>

Because 403s aren't that strong, they have windowed main webs instead of
solid webs. It's more likely to go kaboom.

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
         777777 33333
            77      33
Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
          77        33
         77     33333
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 13:08:45 -0800
From: avnut@arctic.net (Bill Cox)
Subject: Help

Looking for 1937 Olds manual for repair or parts information. Any help
would be appreciated. I think my brake shoes are not the right ones.
Brakes do not properly release.
Thanks
avnut@bigfoot.com

- --
Every job is a self portrait of the person who did it.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 17:13:15 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: 66 Cutless Value

$4500's a little steep, it sounds like it's about a $3000 car.  That's
the most popular model from that year, about 44 thousand made.  They're
great cars, but $4500'a a little steep, like I said...

art

flynt myrick wrote:
>
> List members,
>    I attended the annual Helen Keller Festival in Tuscumbia, Alabama
> yesterday.  At the car show portion of the festival, I saw a very nice
> 1966 Cutlass 2 door hard top for sale.  It is a three owner car.  White
> with black top and interior.  It has A/C, power steering, breaks,
> windows and antenna.  Paint, top, interior, and tires were very nice. It
> has a 330 V8 with jetaway.  It was purchased new in Decatur, Alabama
> where it remained until about three months ago. I saw no rust.  The
> owner said the car runs great.  He asked me $4,500.  Is this a good
> price? Is 1966 a good year.  I really like the looks of the car but I
> don't need another old car. The car show gave me the "car fever".
>
> Flynt Myrick
> f_myrick@hotmail.com
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 14:14:20 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: rear disc(my two bits)

Niiiice attitude,

Remind me not to pull out in front of you...
Of course I'd advise that nobody pulls out infront of me either :-)

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo) 4 wheel drums/non-power


>Since I was invited, I'll give my two cents: I have a 97 Gp with rear
disc
>brakes. I also have a 78 TA with read disc. Is it worth it? Do they
work? I
>really don't give a shit. Why? Because they look cool as hell. That's
good
>enough for me. peace,
>Kerry


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 16:22:18 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: rear disc(my two bits)

>Brent Pinkstaff
>'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo) 4 wheel drums/non-power

4 wheel drums and non-power....and in your daily driver...WOW!!

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31 also 4 wheel drums and obviously non power
1969 4-4-2 parts car with power 4 wheel drums, but the booster is gone
plus others
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 14:23:27 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Adios

Oh this is a nice response!! I don't understand feeling any joy over
Chris Witt signing off the list. Mr. Witt has proven time and time again
that there are few on the list that can even attempt to match his
knowledge base. If you can't take his ribbing it's probably because
there's less going on upstairs than you would probably like to admit.
'Nuff said...

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)

>yahoo! But is this where you sit back pretend your off the list and
watch if anyone is talking about you again?
>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 14:29:41 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: rear disc(my two bits)

Let's make that....

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)
- -4 wheel drum/non-power
- -manual steering

>4 wheel drums and non-power....and in your daily driver...WOW!!
>
>Chris Smetana


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 14:30:48 PDT
From: "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
Subject: new hot wheels 442

 i just got the new hot wheels olds 442,its ONE BAD CAR !its blue and
says hot wheels on the trunk lid.
 its part of the blue streak series ,i allso got the hot wheels 442
thats yellow with a black stripes (i put big wheels on the back)it looks
really cool.dose anybody now if the new olds 442 blue streak is
warth anything?

  My  -------   -------
            /  |
           /   |
          /     ------
         /            |
        /             |
       /        ------    DELTA 88
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 14:33:35 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: '69 w30 and w31 owners

Chris,
This sounds right for the '69 scoops. The measurements sent to me would
work out to 28 sq inches for the '68s and 26.25 sq inches for the '69s.
I have recieved a few private e-mails on the '69 sizes and they were all
the same so I'll send that to the FAQ email.

Thanks,

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)

>I checked a few other documents, namely the Dr. Olds W-Machine flier.
>And it only says 26.2 sq inches for the opening of the scoop

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 17:39:31 -0400
From: talcarol@erie.net (Chris Kugler)
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe oldsmobile "Chris Kugler" <talcarol@erie.net>


going out of town for a while.
Happy 4th of July

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 16:43:28 -0500
From: "James Deyoung" <teamdey@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: olds for sale

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dear sir,
         how would i go about advertising a 68 olds delmont88 =
convertible i have for sale

                                                                         =
        thank you

                                                                         =
         jim deyoung                                                     =
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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>dear sir,</FONT></DIV>
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