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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1348


oldsmobile-digest        Monday, July 6 1998        Volume 01 : Number 1348



Roger's Tri-power intake, and NOVAMARK
Re: Olds 455- hard time turning over! -STOP!
Re: Web Pages
Is it worth it?
Trim needed/car for sale
i have a 74 olds cutlass supreme i am trying to sell.can you tell me
Re: Is it worth it?
Replacing a convertible top motor
Re: Is it worth it?
Oven Cleaner.......?
shucks
Re: Oven Cleaner.......?
Re: New Olds 455 has hard time turning over! HELP!!
67 cutless iginiton
Re: Is it worth it?
Re: 69 442/W30 F/S?
Re: Reading comprehension
ADMIN: Re: WOW!!, etc.
Same questions + worth it! (Olds content)
Super Clean (was: Re: Oven Cleaner.......?)
Re: Replacing a convertible top motor
Re: Oven Cleaner--Super clean
Re: ADMIN: Re: WOW!!, etc.
Re: 69 442/W30 F/S?
Starter Strap Question From Karl
Re: Starter Strap Question From Karl
Re: Starter Bracket (was Same questions + worth it)
Re: Same questions + worth it! (Olds content)
Re: Web Pages
Re: Calling Dr. Olds ---  455 Transplant
Re: engine just got sick
What have you been up to?
FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro
New Website
Emergency Brake cable won't fit?!?
Huh?
gas tank for a 1956 Olds 98.
NW 4-4-2 picnic
A/C Compressor silly-noid.
I'm Baack
The Loose Cannon Incedent
Re: Emergency Brake cable won't fit?!?
Re: gas tank for a 1956 Olds 98.
Re: Oven Cleaner.......?
Date:	Mon, 6 Jul 1998 06:59:37 -0500
Re: Huh?
Re: Huh?
Re: Convertible Frame Q.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 15:16:14 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Roger's Tri-power intake, and NOVAMARK

In a message dated 98-07-05 06:33:02 EDT, you write:

<<< Last week someone asked about the casting # on a J-2  intake. I finally
went upstairs in the garage & dug mine out yesterday. I have  two. The only #
on them is 571145.
  I would sell or swap one of them if any one is interested. About the only
 things i need to finish my 68 ...>>>

Thanks Roger!

I wonder if you would happen to know what year intake that is. While J-2 was
1956 (?), tri-carb intakes were available in 1957 and 1958 these were not
actual intakes for J-2's but rather came with the optional high-performance
engines for those years.

As fo swapping for 1968 stuff, you might try contacting;

NOVAMARK@webtv.net (MARK ERTHUM)

Some might recall a message of his a few days earlier about pats for
65-70something. I have been in touch with him and although I have no grounds
to recommend him (sorry Mark, just a disclaimer), he did show interest in
swapping for my intake. He did not claim to have much in the way of 1965 parts
for full-size, but then I really was not interested in swapping. He had more
parts for 1969 Cutlass/Vista Cruiser (only know because I inquired), but I do
not know that I will require any of these parts in the future.

Again, this is not a recommendation, just passing along an interest.

And thanks again Roger!

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 15:22:50 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Olds 455- hard time turning over! -STOP!

In a message dated 98-07-05 09:28:56 EDT, you write:

<< in WITH SHIM and the motor turns over perfectly. >>

Oh.

Uhhhhhh......

In that case...nevermind!

:-)}

(funny, I coulda sworn......)

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 15:24:14 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Web Pages

Kevin,

Get the FAQ from Bryceman's ULTIMATE Olds page (442.com), add to that the
numbers book from Supercars Unlimited, and combine with "Setting The Pace" by
Mr. Walkinshaw and Mrs. Earley - that will really get you "down the road", so
to speak.

If I missed any other great references, you fine folks are welcome to correct
me.  Heck, I might need to update my library.............

Take Care,
Ken Snyder

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 15:52:48 EDT
From: <LooseCanno@aol.com>
Subject: Is it worth it?

Boy.... Join a list because you're excited about Oldsmobiles...
Present an opportunity - get ripped on.
Try to keep the list free of photos and long messages - get ripped again.
Respond to being ripped - get ripped again, with some asking that you be
removed from 'their" list.

If this list is just for gearheads and skeptics, then - you're right - I don't
belong on it.
My understanding was that the list was designed to bring people together about
their love of Oldsmobiles.  Apparently, as everyone has attempted to point out
over the last two days, I'm wrong.

Once again, take care everyone.  To all of you who responded positively, I'll
speak with each of you personally in the next few weeks.

Erik
'69 Cutlass 'S' convertible
//

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 14:06:34 -0600 (MDT)
From: Tbarry@webtv.net (Thomas Barriano)
Subject: Trim needed/car for sale

I need the drivers door trim for a 66 Dynamic 88 Convertible (2 door htp
will also work)
This car has a new top, redone seats and
carpet and new paint. The car is in Colorado Springs. It has a salvage
title
(replaced left front fender and left rear
quarter)  I maybe interested in selling
for the right offer (somewhere near $5k)
If you have the trim OR are interested
in purchasing, please reply by e-mail.

If you look real close, in the street racing
scene in American Graffitti (sp) you will
not be able to see this car, it's never been
in a movie (as far as I know) :-)

Regards
Thomas

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 13:17:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: TIGASH@webtv.net (ESTHER ASH)
Subject: i have a 74 olds cutlass supreme i am trying to sell.can you tell me

how to go about it?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998 13:25:47 -0700
From: Erik Badzinski <erikreb@netbridge.net>
Subject: Re: Is it worth it?

LooseCanno@aol.com wrote:
>
> Boy.... Join a list because you're excited about Oldsmobiles...
> Present an opportunity - get ripped on.
> Try to keep the list free of photos and long messages - get ripped again.
> Respond to being ripped - get ripped again, with some asking that you be
> removed from 'their" list.
>
> If this list is just for gearheads and skeptics, then - you're right - I 
don't
> belong on it.
> My understanding was that the list was designed to bring people together 
about
> their love of Oldsmobiles.  Apparently, as everyone has attempted to point 
out
> over the last two days, I'm wrong.
>
> Once again, take care everyone.  To all of you who responded positively, I'll
> speak with each of you personally in the next few weeks.
>
> Erik
> '69 Cutlass 'S' convertible
> //

I agree with Erik that it's not worth expelling him from the list.  But
I also agree that he got a little carried away with his previous
messages.  But he is new, and let this be a lesson to him.  If he
continues to disrespect the list, that's when expulsion will be more
approiate.

Just my thought on the subject,

Erik Badzinski,
'72 Cutlass 'S'

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998 15:31:31 -0700
From: Jim Bauman <jbauman@earthlink.net>
Subject: Replacing a convertible top motor

Hi gang,

The convertible top motor in my '65 Ninety Eight went plooey. The electric
motor that operates the hydraulic pump blew.

Anyhow, I'm curious -- when I replace the motor with the new one
(UPS, where *ARE* you??), am I going to get drenched in fluid?
Is there any trick to doing this swap, or is it as straight forward as it
looks?

Thanks,

Jim Bauman
'65 98 Convertible (Oldsmobile)
'86 Carrera Cabriolet (Racemobile)
'90 Plymouth Voyager (Wifemobile)
'88 Ford Bronco II (Disastermobile)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 18:15:55 EDT
From: <MFATZII@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Is it worth it?

off with his head.......

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998 15:23:16 -0700
From: "Dopey!" <mlias@thegrid.net>
Subject: Oven Cleaner.......?

I've been reading that the oven cleaner is a good engine cleaner as
well. I got an '86 442 307. What do I need to cover to rinse off the
cleaner besides the carbie? Do need to avoid putting some of it on the
plugs/wires? Thanks!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 18:23:30 EDT
From: <MFATZII@aol.com>
Subject: shucks

As some of you know know already I just signed my life away a week ago to have
a house built, double stall garage and everything.....you know, for the 56.
Not bragging or anything but just when I decide to go through with this my
distant cousin offers to sel me his 62 Starfire 2dr HT for only 1500.00 and it
has a new motor too!! factory tach, buckets,  so on and so forth.  needs paint
and interior work, but it's all there.....damn I wish I could afford it!!
lemme know if anybody else would be interested in the car.....I can't
guarantee the price though because I'm family...you know how it is.....


Ryan (M Fatz II@aol.com)
Lincoln,   Nebraska  (Home of the Cornhuskers, too bad they suck !)

56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project Rocket)
<A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click here</A>
85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
89 Chevy Beretta CL

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 18:41:36 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Oven Cleaner.......?

      Just thought I'd add this to the cleaner stuff...I just ran across some
stuff called Super Clean, by Castrol. You can buy it over the counter, and it
works like you wouldn't believe! Not that I'm advocating it, but it doesn't
say not to get it in contact with your skin..I had been doing an engine swap,
and my arms were COMPLETELY covered in grease, dirt, etc. I sprayed it on, and
it is so powerful my arms were actually burning from the cleaning agents. It
took it all off in about the time it took to run my other hand across it, and
rinse it off.
     Anyone else have any experience with this stuff on engine blocks, etc.?
If it burned that bad, I figure it HAS to be good stuff : )  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 18:43:35 EDT
From: <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: New Olds 455 has hard time turning over! HELP!!

In a message dated 98-07-03 21:49:59 EDT, you write:

<<
 MORE friction and resistance means MORE power needed to turn it over.
 Shouldn't worry though.  After a few weeks during break in, you'll
 notice that the engine will start turning over smoother.  It's really
 amazing to see a new engine shut down however.  Sorta just "locks" when
 the key is shut off.  As long as all the clearances are correct, and
 everything is working properly, you can expect another 100K + out of the
 engine.  Treat IT right, and it will treat YOU right.
 2 cents,
 Mike Rothe

  >>

Yes, it is quite interesting to see/hear a new (well built engine) shut off,
and start too.  When I turn mine off it "just stops" as you say..., certainly
no dieseling, that's for sure.... and starting is great too.  I'd bet mine
turns less than half a dozen times (if even that) before it fires....

Chris Ruper
'81 Cutlass with a rebuilt 350 (Olds, of course!)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 19:40:19 -0300
From: "V JUSTASON" <justav@nb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: 67 cutless iginiton

To all that may read this: I have a 67 cutless 2dr post with 400 cu in 2bl
300hp 400 turbo 3.08 10bolt posi with power windows and power drivers
bucket seat .It also has what I believe to be a factory pointless
iginition.The distributer has a pickup in it and it has a special coil and
a aluminium fined control box on the passengers side fender well.I wonder
if this is factory equipment.I dont seem to have any voltage to the
positive side of the coil fron the control box.I have checked the coil out
and it seems to be okay.Would any one out there have one of these control
boxes and any techinal info on this system and a wiring diagram.My email
address is  justav@nb.sympatico.ca

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 19:12:15 +0000
From: ejhufnagel@juno.com (Edward J. Hufnagel)
Subject: Re: Is it worth it?

On Sun, 5 Jul 1998 15:52:48 EDT <LooseCanno@aol.com> writes:
>
>
>Boy.... Join a list because you're excited about Oldsmobiles...
>Present an opportunity - get ripped on.
>Try to keep the list free of photos and long messages - get ripped
>again.
>Respond to being ripped - get ripped again, with some asking that you
>be
>removed from 'their" list.

            Forgive me Greg for I will sin.  If you must un*subscibe me I
will understand.


            My .02$.  Do you normally insinuate that all people other
than yourself are homos?  If so I am suprised you have lived this long.
Why not give your address and some of the list members will gladly show
up and give you the opportunity again.  I don't believe your choice of
words would be the same.  Personally if you said it to me you would be
picking your a** up off the floor.

            Yes, this list is to bring people together and enjoy their
prides.  It is also a tech forum, but there is no place on the list for
the crap you were spewing.  There is a well established community on this
list which is made up of some very smart individuals and there are the
mediocre individuals(like myself) and there are the novices too.
Everyone gets along just fine without any insinuations or garbage of any
kind.  If you don't feel you can adhere to these simple and courteous
ways we have here then you should uns*b yourself without having it done
for you.

Off the soapbox,
                             E.J.

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998 19:11:43 -0400
From: Joe & Toni Artwell <tjf26@gte.net>
Subject: Re: 69 442/W30 F/S?

For all of you that asked how much for the car and motor, I will be
calling him this week, he didn't give me a price on Saturday.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 20:35:36 +0000
From: ejhufnagel@juno.com (Edward J. Hufnagel)
Subject: Re: Reading comprehension

On Sun, 5 Jul 1998 19:25:23 EDT LooseCanno@aol.com writes:
>Edward:
>
>I responded directly to the wisecracks sent through the list and to me
>personally.  If you read the e-mails again, you'll see what I'm
>talking about.
>Everyone who shot their mouth off, got slammed.  You hadn't, so those
>comments
>weren't directed at you - they were directed at those who speculated
>about my
>motives, ethics, sexuality, etc.

         Gee, I didn't notice the line that excluded me from the list

>
>As for what a "tough guy" you are, I'd recommend being careful not to
>bite off
>more than you can chew. You posted that smack to the list,

         Which is exactly what you did or I couldn't have been able to
read it.  Doesn't take          a whole lot of brains to figure that one
out.  And I'll be damned to let some little          punk like you insult
me without provacation.


 and I'm
>sure your
>buddies are real impressed, and I'm sure the rest of us are still
>laughing at
>you.  Eat your Wheaties!!
>
>Erik
>


          Still don't see your address posted

         E.J.

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 21:04:22 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: ADMIN: Re: WOW!!, etc.

Enough's enough on this topic, gang. Geez, I get home and the first day I
run into this?!?

My take on it was that (a) the original message was marginal, but
acceptable; (b) the follow-ups by others should have been private, not to
the list, and (c) the original poster's response was acceptable until the
last paragraph. DO NOT make statements like that again, please and thank
you. After that everything went downhill fast.

This is generally a friendly place. Let's keep it that way. Consider
yourselves on notice. Back to Oldsmobiling, please.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 20:50:23 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Same questions + worth it! (Olds content)

Hello again.

Some of the questions that have come up previously in the Soylent Ocean Mist
Saga went unanswered. Given the long nature of some of my notes, I can see how
these could be overlooked. So here they are again.

My original starter had a bracket (a thick metal strip) which was bolted to
the body of the starter, and to the block. My remanufactured starter does not
seem to have a tapped hole for such a bracket. Just the two high-torque bolts
holding it up.

Is this bad?

I am a little bit leary of having it hanging just by the one end, but it
starts.
Will no longer using a bracket lead to long-term ill effects?


The cam thread, MC'ed by Joe Padavano was good stuff.
But if using an aftermarket cam, how would you know if a pushrod of a
different length is required?
Will the cam come with information that should tell you if a pushrod is needed
or not?


The J-2 tri-power intake first appeared in 1956 on a 371cid block. A similar
style, if not exactly the same, was available from 1957 to 1959 (?) on 394cid
blocks.

Can anyone say for certain whether or not the 1958 394cid block is different
from the 1964 394cid block.

In particular, can I bolt a 1958 tri-power intake to a 1964 98's 394?
(without machining)


I feel that I owe some of you a reply to the "FULLY adjustable ignition"
subject. However, I have not entirely overcome the points component, though I
have an idea that may tackle the problem. On the other hand, what I envision
is a distributor system the prototype of which could weigh in excess of 30#!
Which would kinda kill off all the extra horses gained by varying your
ignition timing. So Karl will think more on that, maybe call Dave Smith and
see what he thinks, or maybe forget the whole thing and have another beer!

I am sure that I have more questions on the back burner, but I can post them
later. So now on to the subject of the lastest flame war.

I vote to reatain Mr. Ballistic on the Oldsmobile mail list.

A probation, if you will.

While his first letter was poorly worded, it is obvious that he was somewhat
excited at the time that he wrote (or dictated) it. Unfortunately, or no, it
is now academic.

In truth, the responses to his missives have been, in general, less than kind.

Something less than a tribute to the spirit of this list.
Or typical, if you consider various flame wars that flare now and again.

While I, personally, question his motives, that is my Constitutional right,
and should be taken as my opinion only. I am, as I tried to point out before,
only a product of my environs, which, taken as a whole, is a sad statement on
the nature of Man. But I digress.

His (now stated) intent to personally contact his subscribers is laudable,
although he would likely have fared better had he mentioned that in the first
place.

A significant reson for retaining this person is that, although some objected
to his post, it came in the midst of a number of off-subject postings, which
might thereby mislead one as to what is, and is not acceptable here.

I hope that in the future list-member bashing (except in jest, of couse, like
when Chris Witt returns.... [and except for bashing of me, I prolly did
something to deserve it!]) and demands for ejection will be sent privately to
Greg Beauleau (sp? sorry Greg!) or whomever is involved.

I await your replies to my Oldsmobile-related questions.
Thank you,

Karl Aune

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 21:48:43 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Super Clean (was: Re: Oven Cleaner.......?)

I swear by Castrol Super Clean. One of the best degreasers around, I like
it even better than Simple Green which was my previous favorite. I
haven't had any problems using it... so far at least!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 21:46:46 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Replacing a convertible top motor

On Sun, 5 Jul 1998, Jim Bauman wrote:
> Anyhow, I'm curious -- when I replace the motor with the new one
> (UPS, where *ARE* you??), am I going to get drenched in fluid?
> Is there any trick to doing this swap, or is it as straight forward as it
> looks?

You're going to spill some fluid when you disconnect the lines. Just have
lots of old towels around to catch it. Some of those systems used brake
fluid instead of transmission fluid, so be careful of any paint it might
contact just in case. But it should be a pretty straightforward job.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 20:57:04 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Oven Cleaner--Super clean

>     Anyone else have any experience with this stuff on engine blocks,
etc.?  If it burned that bad, I figure it HAS to be good stuff : )  Dorian

I use Super Clean all the time. Works great. I had my valve covers off
checking for oil flow and a couple good revvs and you know.....oil
everywhere. I sprayed the the whole engine compartment.....squeaky clean!!

I started when I was looking for a degreaser to use on the Xerox Laser
printers that I service. Some of the machines are 20 years old, so when
certain components are pulled for rebuild I use it to get off the build up
of toner and fuser oil (silicone oil).

It does say not to let it sit on aluminum for long periods of time. They're
right, it leaves a stain.  Although when I sprayed the engine compartment it
was on and hosed off in a couple minutes and it didn't affect my aluminum
intake.  It took a couple of applications to get the really heavy grunge
off. (around oil filler and front of motor)

my 2 pennies,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 21:13:12 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Re: WOW!!, etc.

Yeah, what he said!  I'm known to be as skeptical as they come, and aren't
interested in those opportunities, but everyone's entitled to their own
opinions (remember gang, that was the original reason we had a July 4th
celebration, those freedom things we seem to look over sometimes) and if
someone else's opinions step on your toes remember that you at one point or
another might have stepped on some toes, too.

I've seen sins committed on both sides, so we're better off to just drop it,
OK?

We now return you to our usually friendly, informative Olds-related topic
list................

Take Care,
Ken Snyder

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 21:35:07 EDT
From: <KENSOLDS9@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 69 442/W30 F/S?

i would like to take a look at the 69 442 , i'am in the cleveland area .please
email me back so we could hook up , thanks ken ,  kensolds9@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 21:34:57 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Starter Strap Question From Karl

Karl,

Sorry I didn't get back quicker with you on the starter strap, but here's my
experience.

On our first stock car, we didn't use one due to the fact that I had to make a
bracket to relocate the clutch pedal and used the hole in the block along with
the original pedal linkage pivot to attach the plate.  This was necessary
because of the amount of setback we are allowed (#1 spark plug even with the
upper ball joints).  We didn't have any trouble with the starter, and this was
a particularly rough application to test this with, as I-70 Speedway is highly
banked and the car would literally "bottom out" in the turns.  The shock on
the starter would have been significant, but it didn't have a bit of trouble.
As a part of our weekly maintenance we checked the starter bolts for damage,
and never found any.

I've only found one installed on all the Olds engines I've ever torn down or
worked on.  Should you have one?  It wouldn't hurt to have one.  Look on the
side of the starter and see if there's a large phillips-head screw.  I've seen
these and have wondered if someone could remove this screw and then use the
strap as before.

That's all I can add to this.  Anyone else got a penny to add?

Take Care,
Ken Snyder

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 21:48:47 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Starter Strap Question From Karl

In a message dated 98-07-05 21:39:56 EDT, you write:
<<I've only found one installed on all the Olds engines I've ever torn down or
worked on.>>

Uhhh... presume you mean bracket...OK.

<<   I've seen these and have wondered if someone could remove this screw and
then use the strap as before. >>

Seen same, same thoughts.

Kinda dint wanna try removing it as it might be significant in holding the
coils aligned or something similarly vital.

Maybe next time it is in the shop I'll ask them if it is a bad idea to tap the
side of the starter.

Thanks Ken!

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 18:54:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: "R. Coons" <rcoons@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Starter Bracket (was Same questions + worth it)

Karl,

  I replaced my starter on my 1972 Cutlass about 10 years ago, and found
the same thing. I left it unattached.  My starter has never given me any
problems since then.  My car is a daily driver and I have put 160,000
miles on it since then, so I would say you can leave it unattached.

P.S. This does not constitute a warranty either expressed or implied, it is
just my opinion :>


> My original starter had a bracket (a thick metal strip) which was bolted to
> the body of the starter, and to the block. My remanufactured starter does not
> seem to have a tapped hole for such a bracket. Just the two high-torque bolts
> holding it up.
>
> Is this bad?

Greg Coons, Seattle, WA
1972 Cutlass Convertible
1972 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 21:53:36 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Same questions + worth it! (Olds content)

.
> My remanufactured starter does not seem to have a tapped hole for such a
bracket.

Can you drill and tap a new hole in the reman starter?( Without contacting
any internal components)



>Will the cam come with information that should tell you if a pushrod is
>needed or not?

Comp Cams catalog tells you if you need different pushrods or like mine an
adjustable valvetrain when using their cams. All other cam manufacturers do
the same, I believe, if not you can call their tech support staff for their
recommendations.


>I vote to reatain Mr. Ballistic on the Oldsmobile mail list.

 I agree, nuff said.

>Something less than a tribute to the spirit of this list.

My apologies to everyone for my comment.


Hope evryone had a great 4th,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 19:16:45 -0700
From: "Corey Day" <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Web Pages

To other must haves:

the cars of Oldsmobile by Dennis Casteele and Oldsmobile Muscle Cars by
Brookland Books.  They are listed
on 442.com

Corey Day
dayc@ix.netcom.com
http://pw2.netcom.com/~dayc/

- -----Original Message-----
From: KS7RACING@aol.com <KS7RACING@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, July 05, 1998 12:27 PM
Subject: Re: Web Pages


>Kevin,
>
>Get the FAQ from Bryceman's ULTIMATE Olds page (442.com), add to that the
>numbers book from Supercars Unlimited, and combine with "Setting The Pace"
by
>Mr. Walkinshaw and Mrs. Earley - that will really get you "down the road",
so
>to speak.
>
>If I missed any other great references, you fine folks are welcome to
correct
>me.  Heck, I might need to update my library.............
>
>Take Care,
>Ken Snyder
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 19:18:17 -0700
From: "Corey Day" <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Calling Dr. Olds ---  455 Transplant

Mike,

Thanks for taking the time to answer my question!


Corey Day
dayc@ix.netcom.com
http://pw2.netcom.com/~dayc/

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Rothe. <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, July 05, 1998 10:26 AM
Subject: Re: Calling Dr. Olds --- 455 Transplant


>> One concern I have is that the turbo 400 has a long tail shaft (6") has
>> anyone dealt with this situation??? Driveline shortening?
>
>Here's a couple of things to consider.  Will the 2" extra tailshaft make
>a difference?  Maybe.  The angle of the trans to pinion flange is pretty
>critical in driveline vibrations and smooth rotation of the u-joints
>under any suspension deflections you encounter.  Too much and you may
>bind the u-joints in certain conditions.  However, if the tranny FITS
>without physical interference, the extra 2" might not make too much of a
>difference, but I'm NOT going out on a limb and say it will be OK.
>
>With that said, I would find it FAR more easier, for peace of mind and
>for fitment, to either swap the long tail 400 for a short tail, or sell
>yours and buy a short tail.  Of course, SWAPPING a tailshaft and housing
>isn't bad if you're rebuilding the tranny anyway, but you need the tail
>shaft and housing piece.   You can only replace those by gutting the
>tranny first.
>
>If you have the tranny rebuilt, you may consider asking the shop that
>performs it, if you don't do it yourself, if they can replace your
>tailshaft and housing with a shorter one.  Most tranny shops have dead
>transmissions laying around, and the 400 tailshafts are fairly easy to
>find.
>
>Another thing to consider is your speedometer if you replace the
>tailpiece.  The speedo drive gear on the tailshaft must be compatible
>with your intended speedo driven gear/rear end ratio.  Otherwise, you
>end up having to get a reducer/multiplier for it.  Again, if you have
>the tranny at a shop, they can do this for you if it's not the correct
>one you need.
>
>You also will need a TH400 front YOKE to replace your TH350 front yoke.
>It's larger on the 400.
>
>You will need to shorten the driveshaft accordingly.  A lot of
>industrial driveshaft shops can fix it right up and balance it for you
>too.
>
>Just some thoughts.  I put a 455/400 combo in a 72 C/S once, and I had
>to learn all this stuff the hard way.
>
>Mike Rothe
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 21:29:14 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: engine just got sick

>Gregory Zimmerman, zimmermangm@email.msn.com, wrote:
>
>>After I leaned it out too far (surging, bad idle), I went back the
original
>>jetting and it still won't run!
>
>Did you do any WOT runs on the engine when it was in this state ?


Yes I did, the secondaries fattened up the mixture enough to do it.

>>Some of ones the engine almost dies, but on two or three of the
plugs, I can't
>>tell a difference when I unplug them.  There's a huge fat spark
jumping, but
>>the engine doesn't sound any different with them pulled.
>
>I'd get out the compression tester and have a look, Greg, just to
rule out
>the ugly possibilities. Presuming everything is OK there, it sounds
like a
>vacuum leak.
>
>Let us know...
>
>Rich
>-----
>rinacker@voicenet.com (Rich Inacker)
>http://www.voicenet.com/~rinacker

I did a compression check, exactly 190psi in all cylinders.  It seems
like the idle circuit is messed up.  It idles like it's on 5 or 6
cylinders, then as soon as the rpms go past 1000 the motors surges up
and runs nice and clean.  The timing is good too.  Also, at idle
there's a funny tick noise in the exhaust that sounds like leak, but
once off of idle, goes away.  I'll do some more checking tomorrow.

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998 22:53:27 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: What have you been up to?

Hey folks,

Been off for a long time.  Got back on to see what's goin' on for
Nationals.  So, in a nutshell, what's been goin' on for the last 6
months?

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998 23:44:29 -0400
From: Jim & Jo Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro

                                          C&M Classic Parts
                       1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                                (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
                                         <chermac@exis.net>
                                               OCA# 24275

Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm,  Sat 9:00 am - 3:00 pm,  Sunday Closed
*We accept all major Credit Cards. VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and Discover.*
Lots of new reproduction parts will be coming out Summer/Fall  98.

                                         GM Restoration Parts

New arrival "Used parts"
68-69 442 Glove Box Door (black)  $18.00
70 Front Bumper (core)  $85.00
68-69 LH Plastic Inner Fender (w/black washer bottle)  $65.00
69 Front Bumper (no pits, bent from tow truck)  $85.00
64-67 Console Vacuum Gauge (nice)  $95.00
(1) 66-67 14x6 SSI  (good cond)  $50.00
Toro Oil Pan (w/HV Melling pump and pickup) $135.00
65 442 Air Cleaner Top (no base)  $125.00
66-67 442 Air Cleaner (1 nice, 1 good)  $85.00 (good)  $165.00 (nice)
68 442 Air Cleaner Heat tube assm (2 pieces)  $30.00
69-72 442 Air Cleaner (correct large snorkel, reg or OAI base)  $185.00
71-72 Fan Shroud (mint)  $50.00
68-69 Dash Pad (mint black, post coupe w/o A/C)  $175.00 ea
75 Hurst/Olds-442 Air Cleaner (nice)  $45.00
68-72 4 spd Pedal Assm  $55.00
68-72 Z-bar  $45.00 ea
64-66 Z-Bar  $45.00
70-72 350 4 bbl Intake Manifold  $55.00
68-72 Conv. Windshield molding set (mint)  $125.00 set
68-72 4 spd. Z bar support (bolt on) $15.00
69-72 Seat Backs & Lower Sides (nice orig, black or tan)  $100.00 set
69-70 Console Neutral Safety Switch (w/bracket)  $50.00
64-67 A/C Chrome Dash Bezels (nice)  $40.00 pr
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgates Switch Bezels (mint)  $5.00 ea
65-67 425 "D" Block std bore, small lifter bore  $85.00

New Repro Parts:
66 442 Tri-Carb Linkage Kit (complete) $78.00
67 442 Grille Bar (repro)  $96.00
67 Fender Eye Brow Moldings (LH/RH, repro)  $73.00 pr
68 Fender Eye Brow Moldings (LH/RH, repro)  $73.00 pr
69 Fender Eye Brow Moldings (LH/RH, repro)  $73.00 pr
66-67 442/Cutlass Drip Rail Moldings (NEW, repro) $78.00 set
67-70 Turn Signal Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea
67-70 Tilt Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea
67-75 TH400 Shifter Cable Bracket (Repro)  $28.00
68-72 License Plate Bracket (Repro)  $26.50
68-70 W-31 Cam Kits (w/lifters & lube)  $132.00
68-72 1/4 Glass Chrome Moldings (Repro)  $92.00 pr
69-72 Rear Spoiler (3 piece repro)  $255.00
70-72 Hood Pin Kits (NEW, original supplier, complete) $115.00
71or72 442 Grille Numeral Sets (repro, either year)  $34.00 set
71-72 442 Hood Emblem (repro, Non OAI) $20.00

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts 1964-1972 Olds/Cutlass/442
64 BIG CAR (N.O.S.) RH Fender  $340.00
64-72 Clutch Inspection covers (N.O.S.)  $22.00 ea
68-72+ TH Torque Converter Cover (Plastic, N.O.S.)  $36.00 ea
66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
68-7? Under Hood Light kits (N.O.S.)  $35.00 ea
69-72 442 Trunk Numeral Sets (N.O.S.) $45.00 set
69-70 442 Hood Numeral Sets  (N.O.S.) $47.00 set
69-72 442 Fender Numeral Sets (N.O.S.) $34.00 set
70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
70-72 OAI Air Cleaner Springs (N.O.S)  $5.00 ea
71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr
71-72 Headlight Housings (plastic) (N.O.S.) $80.00 pr
72 Cutlass Supreme & Hurst/Olds Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr
73-77 Cutlass/442/Hurst Wiper Switch (N.O.S.)  $22.00

New Aftermarket Parts
Competition Cams 280H Magnum cam (new)  $120.00
Competition Cams 292H Magnum cam (run 10 min.)  $100.00
66-72 Oil Pressure Sending Unit (With Gauges)  $24.00 ea
64-87 Oil Pressure Sending Unit (W/O Gauges)  $13.00 ea
69-72 Ignition Switch (w/o tilt)  *new*  $24.00
69-72 Ignition Switch (w/tilt) *new*  $22.00
70-72 455 Engine Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $32.00 pr
64-67 330 / 68-72 350 Engine Mount (NEW)  $32.00 pr
64-72 Jetaway/TH350, 4 Spd Trans Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $14.00
350/455 Oil Pump Screens (NEW)  $13.00 ea
425/455 Toro Oil Pump Screens (NEW)  $20.00 ea
STD Melling Oil Pumps (NEW)  $30.00 ea
Hi Volume Melling Oil Pumps (NEW)  $46.00 ea
330/350 10.5 in x 10 spline Clutch Kits includes Pressure plate, disc,
throwout bearing, alignment tool. (all NEW pieces)  $135.00 + $19.00 core 
charge
400/455 11.0 in x 10 spline Clutch Kits same as above (all NEW pieces)
$135.00 +$19.00 core charge
3&4 Spd. Pilot Bushing (Bronze) new  $7.50 ea
3&4 Spd. HD Roller Pilot Bearing new  $24.50 ea

Used Parts:
64 Cutlass/442
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $75.00
64-65 Spinner Hubcab (dual bar, single)  $35.00
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00
Front Bumper Core  $50.00
F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00
64-65 F-85 Steering Wheel Center (mint)  $15.00

65 Cutlass/442
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $75.00
65 Cutlass Dash Emblem (mint)  $20.00
64-65 Spinner Hubcab (dual bar, single)  $35.00
65 Cutlass 4 Door Rear Wheelwell Die cast pieces (front)  $20.00 pr
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  LH/RH rear $15.00 ea
64-65 F-85 Steering Wheel Center (mint)  $15.00

66 Cutlass/442
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $75.00
66 Cutlass-67 Cutlass/442 Fenders (Arizona parts, nice)  $500.00 pr
66-67 Dash Insert (painted)  $45.00
66-67 Inner Fender Plastic Clips $1.00 ea
66 442 Trunk Chrome Panels  $150.00 ea
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Emblem $10.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Molding  $20.00
66 Fender Eybrows (nice, no pits)  $35.00 pr
66 Spinner Hubcap (Tri bar, single)  $20.00
66 Floor Shift Steering Column Collars $10.00 ea
66-67 330 4 bbl Intake  $40.00
66-67 Clocks  $40.00 ea
66 F-85 Deluxe/Cutlass Steering Wheel Center (w/hub) $20.00
66 Cutlass Supreme Dash Emblem (very nice)  $20.00
66 F-85 Deluxe Dash Emblem (nice)  $5.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Molding  $35.00
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
66 Cutlass Trunk Molding (very good)  $45.00
66 Cutlass Tail Light Bezels (very good)  $85.00 pr
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (nice)   $55.00
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (good)  $35.00
66-67 AM Radios (nice)  $30.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
66 Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
Post Coupe Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr
F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea

67 Cutlass/442
66-67 Dash Insert (painted)  $45.00
66-67 Inner Fender Plastic Clips $1.00 ea
67 442 Trunk Panel (beautiful)  $200.00
66-67 330 4 bbl Intake  $40.00
67 Deluxe Full Wheel Covers $35.00 set
66-67 Clocks  $40.00 ea
67 Cutlass Dash Emblem (good)  $10.00
67 Cutlass Supreme Dash Emblems (2 very nice)  $20.00 ea
67 442/Cutlass Front Bumper Guards  $15.00 pr
67 Remote Mirror (good, not great)  $20.00
67 F-85 Steering Wheel Center (good chrome) $15.00
67 Cutlass Supreme/442 Steering Wheel Centers (mint)  $35.00
67 Fender End Caps  $30.00 pr
67 4 spd Speedometer Adapter (3.42 gears & 4spd)  $45.00
67 Plain Cutlass Holiday Hardtop interior door panels and rear sides (very
nice, blue/green) $85.00 set of 4
67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea
67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.50 ea
66-67 AM Radios  (nice)  $30.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $50.00 pr
67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $100.00 ea
67 442 Pie Tin Decal  $3.00
67 RH Fender (small metal patch panel, straight)  $165.00

68 Cutlass/442
68-69 442/W-30 400 Intake Manifold  $50.00
68 Cutlass/442 Backup Lens (nice)  $22.00 pr
68 Trunk Vinyl Top Molding & Plate  $25.00
68 2 bbl Air Cleaner  $20.00
68-69 Cutlass/442 Post Coupe LH Door  $85.00
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
68 Turn Signal Lens (mint)  $12.00 ea
68 Cutlass Rear Bumper (core)  $75.00
68-69 14x6 SSII Wheels (set of 5)  $200.00
68 AM Radio  $25.00
68  8-Track Unit (housing cracked, needs plastic one)  $55.00
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00
Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00
68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $25.00 ea
68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Sets (black, mint) $27.50 pr

69 Cutlass/442
69 Cutlass Grilles (mint LH, N.O.S. RH)  $140.00 pr
69 Cutlass Rear Bumper (nice, no pits, straight)  $110.00
69 Tail light Bezels (mint)  $150.00 pr
69 Head light Housings (mint)  $75.00 pr
69 Head light Bezels (mint)  $65.00 pr
69 Hood Tongue $20.00
68-69 442/W-30 400 Intake Manifold  $50.00
69 Convertible Trunk Lid (nice)  $150.00
69 Turn Signal Lens (nice)  $25.00 pr
69 Front Grille Center Filler (between grilles)  $8.00
69 Full Hubcaps (nice)  $35.00 set
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
69 Cutlass RH Grille (nice, used)  $40.00
69 Radiator Core Support 3 Row (mint, no rust holes)  $150.00
69 Headlight Bezels  $60.00 pr
69-72 Hood Hinges  $40.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Louver Chrome  $25.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Louver Moldiings  $25.00 pr
68-72 Windshield Molding Sets  $45.00 set
69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
69 RH Fender (small nickel sized hole)  $200.00
69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $55.00 ea
69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $25.00 ea

70 Cutlass/442
70 Hood Tongue $40.00
70 Fender Eybrows (nice, no pits)  $45.00 pr
70 RH Rally 350 grille (repaired, nice)  $75.00
70 LH/RH Hood "L" moldings (few small pits under side, nice) $95.00 pr
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
70 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr
70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (excellent)  $115.00
70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
70-72 455 Std. Iron intake manifold (auto cars)  $55.00
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea
70 F-85 Horn Button (cheap style wheel, excellent)  $10.00
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00
69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00
69-70 "S" Hood Chrome Vents  $25.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Vent Moldings  $25.00 pr
70 "S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr
70 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $90.00
70-72 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens (restored)  $17.00 ea
70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens (restored) $23.00 ea

71 Cutlass/442
70-71 Cutlass Supreme Side Marker Lights (mint)  $70.00 set
71 LH Cutlass Supreme Grille (nice)  $85.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 pr
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
70-72 C/S LH/RH Side Glass  $25.00 ea
71 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr

72 Cutlass/442
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 pr
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00
72 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr
72 Tail Light Lens  $13.00 ea

73 and Newer and Big Car Parts:
66-67 TH425 Toro Transaxle  (switchpitch, very good)  $200.00
Late 73-74 Olds HEI distributors (non cumputer, w/cap and coil)  $45.00 ea
73-75 442 Console and Shifter (Maroon)  $120.00
73-77 Omega Floor Shift Tilt  $65.00
75 Omega Front Fenders (very nice pair)  $180.00 pr
75 Omega Bucket Seats (nice, maroon cloth)  $85.00 pr
66-67 Toronado Rear Bumper (very nice)  $150.00
66 Toro Batman Steering Wheel, Tilt/Tele column (black, very nice)  $145.00
72 Delta 88 Qtr End caps  $25.00 pr
72 Delta 88/ Ninety Eight Owners Manual (nice) $5.00
62 Super 88 Tail Panel Chrome  (good)  $25.00
62 Super 88 Grille (good)  $50.00
62 Big Car (88, 98, Starfire) Front Bumper (straight, very good)  $125.00


New reproduction parts:
Convertible Top Boots (Correct Grains for each different year)  $85.00ea
64  Black, Red, Lt. Blue, Fawn, Saddle, Turqoise, White
65  Same as 64
66-67 Black, Red, Light Blue, Med. Blue, Bronze, Turqoise, White, Gold
68-72 Black, Red, Parchment, Lt. Blue, Teal Blue, Green Gold, Gold, Pearl,
Dk Blue, Dk. Green, Lt. Green, Lt. Saddle, Dk Saddle, Olive Green, Royal
Blue, White, Sandalwood,

Molded Carpet Sets  $95.00
64-67 - (Black, Red, Med. Blue, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Maroon)
68-72 - (Black, Red, Maroon, Turqoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Med. Blue, Dk. Green,
Green Gold, Lt. Green, Teal Blue, Saddle, Sandalwood)
73-77 - (Same as 68-72 except Green Gold)

Door Panels  64-72  $Inquire

Seat Covers  64-72  $345.00 front and rear sets any year or color.

Vinyl Dash Overlays (makes your wood dash areas look like carbon fiber)
$50.00 set

Lifetime Guarantee on all correct bead window felts  $92.00 set (inner & outer)
66-67 2 dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (correct bead type)
68-72 2 dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (not Supreme Coupes, correct bead)

Replacement Window Felts (Flat type)  $60.00 set (inner & outer)
64-72 Cutlass/442 (state year and model)

Glove Box Liners
64-67 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
68-69 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
70-72 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99

Qrt Seals
70-72 Cutlass Supreme & Conv Qtr End seals  $13.00 pr

Hood Insulation
64-65 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
66 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
67 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
68-70 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner (wclips)  $18.00
70-72 Cutlass Supreme Hood Liner (w/clips)  $18.00
73-77 Cutlass $28.00

Liner Clips
Round Clips  $1.00 ea
Square Clips  $1.00 ea

A-Arm Shields
68-72 Upper A-Arm dust shields  $14.99 pr

***** 69-72 "W" and "Z" exhaust manifold sets (REPRO) Winter 98 *****
       We will be test fitting and running them later this year before they
are shipped to GM for final approval. They will be available exclusively
from C&M.
Price is around $300.00 for a set. Different date codes will not be
available at this time. Maybe in the future. Delay has occurred due to
change in manufacturer.

        66-67 "X" and "W" exhaust manifold sets (REPRO) Spring 99

***** Shift Indicators for ALL console A-body 64-75 and 63 Starfires will be
available in July/August. Including Dual Gates.

        66 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $1795.00
        67 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $995.00
        66 & 67 Track Pac kits (complete, just like the dealer option includes;
        shroud, ducts, hoses, cam/lifters, battery accessories)
Winter/Spring 98/99.

TOY'S:
69 442's (HotWheels size, Speed Rebels) Red $1.75 ea
Johnny Lightning Pace Cars
70 442 Pace Car (bronze or teal)  $3.50 ea
74 Hurst/Olds Pace Car (magenta)  $3.50 ea
79 Delta 88 Pace Car (White)  $3.50 ea

Others:
70 GTO Judge (Yellow) $1.75 ea

Models:
67 W-30 442 (Lindberg)  $14.00 ea

Odds and Ends (not Olds, but GM parts we have lying around)
68-71 Buick GS Ram Air air cleaner assm  $150.00
70-72 Buick AM/FM Stereo $150.00
71-72 Chevelle SS Emblem Kit (complete car, N.O.S. and Repro, includes door
panel SS N.O.S. emblems)  $140.00
64-65 Pontiac Chrome Valve Covers  $45.00 pr
Mid 60's Pontiac Dog Dish Hubcaps (nice)  $80.00 set

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 20:50:17 -0700
From: "Corey Day" <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: New Website

Hey everyone,

I have created yet another new Olds website.  The 68-72 Olds Archive, on
this site I will have Technical Information, Car of the Month Contest, also
a Swapmeet(Classifieds section)

Also if you would like to contribute any Technical information I would be
glad to integrate it.

Check it out at: http://pw2.netcom.com/~dayc/index.html and let me know what
you think.

Thanks,

Corey Day
70 Cutlass S - 455
dayc@ix.netcom.com
http://pw2.netcom.com/~dayc/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 23:19:41 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Emergency Brake cable won't fit?!?

I swapped in a Th-400 in my 72 442 convt. in place of where a TH-350 once
was. The crossmember went back a little bit because of the 400's longer
length. The problem I now have is that the emergency brake setup is not
working properly. There is not enough tension in the lines. What must I do?
How do I go about doing it?
 I figure that I can delete the whole setup, but I wouldn't mind having
emergency brakes on hand, just in case......

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 01:27:39 EDT
From: <LooseCanno@aol.com>
Subject: Huh?

I have met a lot of cool people online.  But i've elso met people like this
(presumably, a list member)
OJUNEBUGGO:	Promotion Entrepreneur....Hua'? What kind of business are 
you
starting? Ripping off peoples picts. of cars so you can sell em! Big movie car
man!! Ooooooohh!!!!
OJUNEBUGGO:	punk, wanna see what WEST SIDE really is
OJUNEBUGGO:	Did they really turn down your car for thee movie.
BITCH

WHAT IS THE DEAL WITH YOU GUYS??

Erik

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998 22:51:14 PDT
From: "Gene Crowdis" <oldsman68@hotmail.com>
Subject: gas tank for a 1956 Olds 98.

Looking for a gas tank for a '56 Olds 98.  If you have any idea where I
might locate one for a restoration project please contact me at
Oldsman68@hotmail.com
Light the Rockets
Gene C.

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998 22:51:30 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: NW 4-4-2 picnic

Just a reminder,
One week from today (on Sunday, July 12th) is the South Sound 4-4-2 Club
and 4-4-2 Club of Oregon's  9th annual picnic held in Centralia,
Washington.  Let me know if you need more information.  We hope to see
you there!
- --
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 01:20:24 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@wans.net>
Subject: A/C Compressor silly-noid.

Ok guys, your Texas king of the A/C retro's needs some A/C help :) Does
anyone know what year will correctly (functionally) replace the early
style hold-in relay? I want my A/C to go OFF when I turn it OFF!

Thanks

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
' 70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 08:18:53 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: I'm Baack

subscribe oldsmobile


===========================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
Cutlass403@ameritech.net
1971 Cutlass S 455
Westside! Chitown IL
===========================


===========================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
Cutlass403@ameritech.net
1971 Cutlass S 455
Westside! Chitown IL
===========================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 04:31:18 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: The Loose Cannon Incedent

LooseCanno@aol.com wrote:

A bunch of stuff, and
A bunch of other people wrote:
A bunch more stuff...

So it's time for me to add my two cents here.  I've been gone for the weekend,
but able to read my mail (but unable to ~send~ mail, due the the server I was
using to bounce through)  I'd followed this post fairly closely, since it's 
just
so bizzare.  First off, I'm going to say Greg's definately right, give it a
rest!  With that said, I'm gonna do just the opposite.  The initial post didn't
come across as bad to me, by any means.  I didn't read very much thought into
it, but it didn't look out of line to me.  Might have been worded better, but
who here is ~not~ guilty of that offense at some point or other???  (~Not~ me!)
He initially got some quick snaps about the intent of his post, which set
everyone off in a bad direction, and got the loose cannon shooting off in
response to Karl's post (Who ~is~ one of our better contributors, and a really
good guy, so I don't want to sound like I'm alienating him, or SOM, 'cuz they
~both~ add alot to this list.  I'm guessing Karl must have woken up on the 
wrong
side of SOM, not the bed!  ;)

Anyway, putting myself in Loose Cannon's position, I think I'd have written a
bit more bitterly after joining the best list on the net and getting shot down
so fast.  I can't hold that against him, nor can I hold the movie shot critic
points against anyone, either, as that's something that should be brought out 
in
the open.  I've always fantasized about having my car in a movie, preferably
drag racing, (preferably winning) and preferably ~not~ being abused, but I
~know~ that it'll never happen...  Unless they'd let ~me~ be the only one in 
the
car at any and all times...

From there things went south it seems.  He'd mentioned keeping all ~non~ Olds
correspondance ~private~ which so many of us seem to have trouble with.  Kudos
to him for that.  He mentioned some snaps about certain sig files, which could
have been left unsaid...  Somebody else rephrased his heterosexual reference to
a homo reference (accidentally or not, don't know or care) and that prompted
someone ~else~ to ask to kick him off.

Now come on, guys (and gals, although they've kept quiet through all of this)
Does this really warrant ~any~ punishment???  ~I~ sure don't think so.  Anybody
remember Tucker???  Big pain in....... a couple years back.  Give this guy a
break, already.  He doesn't deserve the crap he's getting dished.  ~Especially~
if he actually does have close ties with Hollywood.

Erik, as far as I'm concerned, you're welcome here.  I'd just call this whole
episode a cheap version of freshman initiation, and forget about it.  Odds are
everyone else will (once the thread ~finally~ dies!)  It takes a ~lot~ of bad
stuff happening for us to ~not~ forgive and forget names like, uhh, say,
tucker@aol.com, just off the top of my head...  Long before your time, but a
select few of us got to witness his pleasant demeanor...

'Nuff Said???  I hope.

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 06:45:48 -0400
From: Jim & Jo Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Emergency Brake cable won't fit?!?

Peter

        I forgot to tell you on the phone that the front and center cable
assm are different and need to be swapped to TH400 pieces. They are available.

Jim Chermack

At 11:19 PM 7/5/1998 -0500, you wrote:
>I swapped in a Th-400 in my 72 442 convt. in place of where a TH-350 once
>was. The crossmember went back a little bit because of the 400's longer
>length. The problem I now have is that the emergency brake setup is not
>working properly. There is not enough tension in the lines. What must I do?
>How do I go about doing it?
> I figure that I can delete the whole setup, but I wouldn't mind having
>emergency brakes on hand, just in case......
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 06:46:58 -0400
From: Jim & Jo Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: gas tank for a 1956 Olds 98.

Gene

        Try Fusick's. They are the largest supplier of the 55-57 stuff.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts

At 10:51 PM 7/5/1998 PDT, you wrote:
>Looking for a gas tank for a '56 Olds 98.  If you have any idea where I
>might locate one for a restoration project please contact me at
>Oldsman68@hotmail.com
>Light the Rockets
>Gene C.
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 07:09:16 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: Oven Cleaner.......?

Be careful with superclean on your skin , it will pull the natural oils out of
your skin, at least it does to me, dries out the skin and peels off like
sunburn. Butch  68  442  post

DYeager535@aol.com wrote:

>       Just thought I'd add this to the cleaner stuff...I just ran across some
> stuff called Super Clean, by Castrol. You can buy it over the counter, and it
> works like you wouldn't believe! Not that I'm advocating it, but it doesn't
> say not to get it in contact with your skin..I had been doing an engine swap,
> and my arms were COMPLETELY covered in grease, dirt, etc. I sprayed it on, 
and
> it is so powerful my arms were actually burning from the cleaning agents. It
> took it all off in about the time it took to run my other hand across it, and
> rinse it off.
>      Anyone else have any experience with this stuff on engine blocks, etc.?
> If it burned that bad, I figure it HAS to be good stuff : )  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 06:59:37 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Date:	Mon, 6 Jul 1998 06:59:37 -0500

subscribe oldsmobile SAJOHNSON@usds.com



===========================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
Cutlass403@ameritech.net
1971 Cutlass S 455
Westside! Chitown IL
===========================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 08:31:26 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Huh?

<HTML>
<FONT SIZE=+2>JUST LET IT GO</FONT></HTML>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 08:45:40 EDT
From: <WOODY3781@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Huh?

I couldn't agree more. I am new to this list, actually fell into it. I am
really both impressed and thankful for the info and knowledge that I've picked
up over the last couple of weeks. Being new I'd just like to say, Keep it
light and stop reading more into this "incident" than there is. If it's over
then let it be over.

thanks for hearing me out

woody3781
70 cutlass(4 door)
73 delta convertible
64 ss impala(sorry)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 08:57:49 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Convertible Frame Q.

In a message dated 98-07-02 02:58:29 EDT, you write:

<<  got my car back from the convertible top guys today.
 Well I got problems. >>

Ok....it's a mess, but I've been through it before. Easiest solution is to sue
him if he dosen't fix it. Small claims court in NJ you can sue up to $2000.
He's supposed to be a professional, that's why you took it to him in the first
place. You'll beat him in court.
Secondly, there are  tons of adjustments if you check your owner's manual. I
placed two Coke cans on top of my windshield and let the top down so it rested
on them. I then adjusted the rear flanges and tightened them up. That gave me
the tension I needed. There are bolts on each rear side for height  and a set
screw(use an Allen wrench)  for height level over rear windows.Essentially,
you have to go by trial and error, but if you stay with it, you'll get it.

Good Luck,
Bruce
75 Delta 88 Conv.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1348
*********************************
