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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1488


oldsmobile-digest    Thursday, September 17 1998    Volume 01 : Number 1488



RE: Virus Warning!!
Re: Master Cylinder Talk
1978 Cutlass parts
Re: Olds Hearses and Ambulances
Virus Warning Update
RE: Parts interchange from an 84 t-type
[Event] Oldsmobile Cruise Nite 9/19 (Maryland)
Re: 70-72 Master cylinders
Re: 360HP 455
Re: Overheating
Re: Overheating
Re: Fw: Virus Warning!!
A/C questions
Re: [Event] Oldsmobile Cruise Nite 9/19 (Maryland)
Another Overheating Question!
Re: Overheating
Re: 70-72 Master cylinders
re: GM B body list
Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?
Re: A/C questions
Re: Another Overheating Question!
Re: 1968,  &  70-72 Master cylinders
Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme parts
Re: 200-R4 vs. 200-4R
Overheating, thanks
Re: 200-4R
Re: 1978 Cutlass parts
Re: 1968,  &  70-72 Master cylinders
Re: Virus Warning Update
Re: Olds F-85
Quiz for the day...
Lost my connection
Lost my connection
Re: 1968,  &  70-72 Master cylinders
Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?
On the road at last!
Re: Quiz for the day...
Re: Quiz for the day...
tapitity tap  ........
Re: tapitity tap  ........
Re: tapitity tap  ........
Re: Virus Warning Update
Re: Carb crap getting needle & seat. was Car prob?? and ...
Re: 1960 Dynamic 88 was: 1961 Dynamic 88
Re: tapitity tap  ........
1964  Cutlass Bumpers for sale
72 Cutlass S For Sale
Re: 72 Cutlass S For Sale
Re: Carb crap getting needle & seat. was Car prob?? and ...
Re: Quiz for the day...
Re: Another Overheating Question!
still overheating
members.tripod Super Olds
General
Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?
G-body radiator/last year for the 350
alternator wire, snip snip
Guage package
ADMIN: Digest Size Question
Re: G-body radiator/last year for the 350
Re: block thread messed up! Suggestions?
'68 Disk Brake M/C (Again)
Re: Alternator Question
Re: G-body radiator/last year for the 350
Engine bog
Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme parts
Re: alternator wire, snip snip
Re: Another Overheating Question!
Olds/Toro Searchable archives??
Re: 70-72 Master cylinders
Re: Virus Warning Update

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 11:15:56 -0700
From: "Poupeney, Marie (MAPO)" <MAPO@chevron.com>
Subject: RE: Virus Warning!!

We aren't allowed to load any special screen savers any more with the
new software we are using.  I tried to call you Sunday night but there
was no answer.  I need to go to Berkeley on Sunday to check out a
grocery store as part of my research for a paper in English.  What did
you guys do last weekend?  What's up this weekend?  Saturday I'm going
to Teresa's after school with the Maxster and we are going to a wine and
art festival in Lafayette.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Lou Biggs [SMTP:lbiggs@intertek.net]
> Sent:	Tuesday, September 15, 1998 2:58 PM
> To:	Scott & Kim McCormick; Rex & Debbie Drown; Randy Valentine; Pat
> & Lynn Forness; Olds List; Joe English; Bill Foran
> Subject:	Fw: Virus Warning!!
>
> For all, received this morning.
>
> Lou Biggs
> lbiggs@intertek.net
>
> ----------
> > From: Gary Cobb <COBB_GA@PENCO.COM>
> > Subject: Virus Warning!!
> > Date: Tuesday, September 15, 1998 10:38 AM
> >
> >  You might want to pass this along.
> >
> >  RECEIVED THROUGH INTERNET MAIL TODAY (Monday, 9/14)!!
> >       Subject: Virus Warning
> >      This is a new twist.  Someone is sending out a very desirable
> > screen-saver,
> >      the Budweiser Frogs. But if you download it, you will lose
> > everything!!!
> >      Your hard drive will crash!!! DON'T DOWNLOAD THIS UNDER ANY
> >      CIRCUMSTANCES!!! IT JUST WENT INTO CIRCULATION YESTERDAY,
> >      AS FAR AS WE KNOW... BE CAREFUL.  PLEASE DISTRIBUTE THIS TO AS
> MANY
> >      PEOPLE AS POSSIBLE...If you download some jerk from the
> internet
> will
> >      get your screen name and password! Please send this to any
> names
> >      you can think of and remember never download  BUDDYLST.ZIP This
> is a
> >      new, very malicious virus and  not many people know about it.
> This
> >      information was announced yesterday morning from Microsoft.
> Please
> >      share it with everyone that might access the internet. Once
> again,
> >      pass this along to EVERYONE in your address book so that this
> may be
> >      stopped.
> >
> >      Also do not open or even look at any (Internet) mail that says
> >      "RETURNED OR UNABLE TO  DELIVER".  This virus will attach
> itself to
> >      your computer components and render them useless.  Immediately
> delete
> >      mail items that say this. AOL has said that this is a very
> dangerous
> >      virus and that there NO remedy for it at this time.  Please
> practice
> >      cautionary measures  and forward this to all your on-line
> friends
> >      ASAP. Hope this does not get  you!"
> >
> >
> >
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 14:21:48 EDT
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: Master Cylinder Talk

In a message dated 9/16/98, 8:03:55 AM, oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca writes:
<<
> 1971-1972 Manual disc (W-30). Dual bail. 1" bore.>>
So the BIG question is has anyone put a manual 1'' bore master on a pwr disc
car and if so what was the results. Slightly more travel and a easier actuated
pedal hmmm.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 14:21:29 +0100
From: DIKU@novo.dk (DIKU)
Subject: 1978 Cutlass parts

     Hi everyone:

     I have a 1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Brougham with a landau top.

     My husband and I are close to finishing the restoration on it and are
     looking for the following parts either used or new-old-stock:

        Tail light or headlight bessels (sp?)
        Stainless molding along the bottom sides of car and doors
        Inside door panels (red)
        Any other items you may have for this year car.

     A lot of the places we called only deal with parts up to 1977.  It's
     been difficult to get parts.  We found some things in junk yards, but
     a lot of the cars get crushed right away.  I guess they're not in big
     demand for this year yet.

     If you can help and direct me to any information, I greatly appreciate
     it.

     An Olds Admirer,

     Diane
     Princeton, New Jersey
     Email: diku@novo.dk

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 13:23:05 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Hearses and Ambulances

I found a 58 Olds Ambulance once, 371 1bbl!  I was suprised.  It was
light blue, went to the crusher about 10 years ago.

Shame....

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 13:36:53 -0500
From: "Reed, Steve" <sreed@cp.varco.com>
Subject: Virus Warning Update

>> Subject: Virus Warning!!
>> Date: Tuesday, September 15, 1998 10:38 AM
>>
>>  You might want to pass this along.
>>
>>  RECEIVED THROUGH INTERNET MAIL TODAY (Monday, 9/14)!!
>>       Subject: Virus Warning
>>      This is a new twist.  Someone is sending out a very desirable
>> screen-saver,
>>      the Budweiser Frogs. But if you download it, you will lose
>> everything!!!

To All,
	I HATE to see these posts all over the internet containing bogus
information.  [Computer Geek mode engaged] The ONLY WAY one can
implement a virus is by executing a program.  You can download a ZIP
file containing an EXE, and not be infected, as well as downloading the
EXEcutable program.  You can also extract the virus from the ZIP file
and NOT be infected. You can receive an E-Mail with a virus attached,
and read the text in the e-mail WITHOUT being infected.  THE ONLY WAY to
be infected is to run the application!  [Computer Geek mode disengaged]

	Sorry It just annoys me to see my mailbox flooded with these
messages from friends who get paranoid about ANY E-mail they now
receive.

- -Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 12:41:13 -0600
From: Arnold Alvin TSgt <ARNOLDA@SCHRIEVER.af.mil>
Subject: RE: Parts interchange from an 84 t-type

Cool... I learn a new thing every day...  bet you didn't know about '84 GN's
either.... hee hee

Louie

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Matt Cremean [SMTP:creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu]
> Sent:	Wednesday, September 16, 1998 3:46 AM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Re: Parts interchange from an 84 t-type
>
> Arnold Alvin TSgt wrote:
> >
> >
> >   I'm also into Olds and am looking for an early 70 Hurst Olds as an
> > acquisition in the future.
>
> You'll be looking for quite a while, then. The H/O's you're talking
> about were made in '68, '69, and '72.
>
> --
> *************
> Matt Cremean
> mailto:creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
> 1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
> 1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
> 1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
> 1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
> **************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 98 14:31:40 -0500
From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Subject: [Event] Oldsmobile Cruise Nite 9/19 (Maryland)

I haven't heard from any list members if they're comin' or not so here is the
next to last shameless plug for my club's upcoming event this weekend!
===============================================================================

September 19 - 2nd ANNUAL OLDSMOBILE CENTENNIAL CLUB CRUISE NITE

Hosted by the Oldsmobile Centennial Club. At The Big M Restaurant/ Bel
Air Drive-In  Theater, P.O. Box 111, Rt. 22, Churchville, MD (Between
Bel Air & Aberdeen, MD. 5 miles  west of I-95). All years and condition
Oldsmobiles welcome, daily drivers to show trailer queens. Free goodie
bag to first 50 Oldsmobiles through the gate. Open to the public. Other
vehicles welcome to cruise on in. Music, fun and games, 50/50 drawing.
FREE! For more info contact: The Big M @ (410) 734-4370 or Brad
Nicholson at (410) 256-0381 or email: brad442@erols.com. Web Site:
http://www.erols.com/brad442/occ

Quick & Dirty Directions:
Take I-95 either North or South
Get off at Exit 85 - Bel Air/Aberdeen (MD Rt 22)
Head West on Rt. 22 toward Bel Air
Travel 5-6 miles to Churchville
The Big M is on the left

Oldsmobiles get the asphalt and grass to the right (Chevy's and Fords to the
back of the lot please ;-)

Brad Nicholson (OCA's WebGuy)
brad442@erols.com
OCA Web Site - http://www.oldsclub.org

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 15:51:22 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 70-72 Master cylinders

> I would be interested to hear from other List members who own a 1970 with
> manual disc brakes.  What type of master cylinder is on your car?  The
> original style disc cylinder features a large front and a small rear
> reservoir.  Whereas the drum style cylinder originally had equal front and
> rear size reservoirs.

Interesting... the disk brake setup I bought from Everett H. was a 1970
manual disk job. The master cylinder was a single bail, with both
reservoirs the same size.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 11:59:45 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: 360HP 455

336 hp at 4500
477 ft/lbs at 3000
with your cam specs, high performance exhaust manifold (it assumes dual 
exhaust)
and compression at 9.5.
bumping the compression to 10.5
356 hp at 4500
498 ft/lb at 3000

those are good numbers. If what you want is horsepower, your cam is what is
hurting  you. A cam with more lift and less duration will give you more
horsepower and hense a higher top end. But if we get them off the line with our
torque then they will just stay behind us...

Remember, these are aproxiamte calcualtions and are no substitute for an actual
dyno test.

Ben

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 11:39:44 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Overheating

the thermostat helps keep the engine cool by keeping the coolant in the
block longer so it can absorb more heat the fact that your coolant temp is
high doesnt mean that you need a lower rating stat so go with the 192 or 195
use antifreeze/coolant and good luck...kk

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 11:39:44 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Overheating

the thermostat helps keep the engine cool by keeping the coolant in the
block longer so it can absorb more heat the fact that your coolant temp is
high doesnt mean that you need a lower rating stat so go with the 192 or 195
use antifreeze/coolant and good luck...kk

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 12:18:15 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: Virus Warning!!

> Who's to know if their real, trying to save someone grief,
> sorry it offended you.

I'm sorry, I was more than a little cranky this morning and
that was the last straw. That was not aimed at you personally
(which is why I snipped the attribution) but a general comment
on folks who are using this list for something other than Olds
discussion (like, um, I am right now  :-)

Please let's just have a moratorium on non-Olds commentary in
general; this will enable us to avoid urban legends, politics
and a whole lot of other inflammatory stuff at the same time.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 13:26:48 -0600
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: A/C questions

I'm thinking about re-installing the A/C system in my '72 Cutlass Supreme.
As far as I know, the only parts missing are the compressor and the hoses.
Everything else is still on the car.  My questions are:

Would the rest of the system be ruined because they've not been kept in
contact with freon and compressor oil for 15 years or more?  I believe the
two metal tubes coming from the fire wall have been plugged since the
removal of the original system, but the condenser has been left open for all
these years.  Is there anything in the condenser or any other piece that
could be ruined by drying out?  Can I just take the condenser out and flush
it with water or paint thinner or something?  I guess, in a nutshell, what I
want to know is, can I expect to be able to install a new compressor and
hoses and have my A/C working again?

Thanks,
Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 12:47:16 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Event] Oldsmobile Cruise Nite 9/19 (Maryland)

Oh good grief! I'll be there!

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)



>I haven't heard from any list members if they're comin' or not so here
is the
>next to last shameless plug for my club's upcoming event this weekend!
>==============================================================================
=
>
>September 19 - 2nd ANNUAL OLDSMOBILE CENTENNIAL CLUB CRUISE NITE




______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 13:17:58 -0700
From: Chris & Robin Miller <cya442@mindspring.com>
Subject: Another Overheating Question!

    I have a '68 442 with a 455 in it and it is running pretty warm but
only at idle speeds, I'm talking 220 - 230 or so.  During highway speeds
it stays around 190.  I was wondering if anyone out there has a similar
set up and could measure how far their fan sits into the fan shroud for
me.  It isn't running too lean, have tried different timings, replaced
the fan clutch (from a thermal to a non-thermal), etc.  I am getting
ready to try a flex fan with a spacer to move the fan out of the shroud
a little but I HATE flex fans.  I may also try a pusher electric fan and
would  like to know of any recommendations on those too.  Any help would
be greatly appreciated.  Thanks.

- --
Chris Miller
'68 442
San Diego, CA
mailto:cya442@mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 16:39:26 EDT
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Overheating

In a message dated 9/16/98 2:02:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, tlentz@ior.com
writes:

<<
 Also, have you tried it WITH the thermostat?  If not, you might try
 putting it back in.  I don't want to take one side of the fence or the
 other and start that bandwidth wasting argument again, but it's been
 said that a t-stat can help you run cooler because it slows down the
 water.  Try a 160 or 180 degree high-flow t-stat.
  >>
Also check timing..and make sure outer temp sending unit for computer is
working.
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 13:52:48 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 70-72 Master cylinders

FWIW,

I went home at lunch time and got catalogs from Supercars, USA Parts
Supply, Year One, Fusick, and Br**(NO I CAN'T BRING MYSELF TO WRITE
IT!!!!!!!! AHHH!).

Anyway, here's what they sell:

Supercars-
06-174 - All w/front disc w/o power except '71-'72 w-30

Br******-
26-142 - All disc w/o power except '71-'72 w-30

USA Parts Supply-
A4.650C - '67-'72 all w/drum brakes, '70 w-30 manual disc

Fusick-
36235 - 67-72 all w/drum, 1970 manual disc

Year One-
NG1113 - all 67-72 drum, 1970 w-30 manual disc




Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 17:22:39 -0500 (EST)
From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu>
Subject: re: GM B body list

It's up... though activity on it has so far been slim to nill... there's
only a few s*bscribed so far... perhaps with some other people on there we
will see a little bit of activity.

BTW, not limited to B bodies... it's officially a "GM Full Size" list.

To S*bscribe, send a message to majordomo@vampire.org with the text
"s*bscribe gmfullsize"

of course... replace the * with a "u"

Be sure to introduce yourselves and your cars ;-)


    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
 |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
 |  |  |     work:  GQPR12E@Prodigy.com
 |  |  |
 | / \ |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
 |/   \|
  \   /      1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
   \ /          (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
    |           http://www.442.com/pierce.html
	     1980 Rover 3500 SD1
		(215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/othercars.html
	     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
		(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/bonneville.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 17:45:20 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?

Oh, with the 1792 ft-lbs of torque at 200 RPM, not long at all.

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

On Tue, 15 Sep 1998 18:50:29 -0500 "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
writes:
>Ray,
>How long does it take you to get to maximum velocity?
>Lou Biggs
>lbiggs@intertek.net
>
>----------
>> From: Ray Costanzo <rocket409@juno.com>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?
>> Date: Tuesday, September 15, 1998 5:01 PM
>>
>> i have an 83 Delta with 2.5 4 banger with 1.07:1 rear and it lays
>rubber
>> all the way up to sixth gear.  Top speed is 487.03 MPH.
>
>

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 16:43:44 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Re: A/C questions

B. Sanders wrote:
>
> I'm thinking about re-installing the A/C system in my '72 Cutlass Supreme.
> As far as I know, the only parts missing are the compressor and the hoses.
> Everything else is still on the car.  My questions are:
>
> Would the rest of the system be ruined because they've not been kept in
> contact with freon and compressor oil for 15 years or more?  I believe the
> two metal tubes coming from the fire wall have been plugged since the
> removal of the original system, but the condenser has been left open for all
> these years.  Is there anything in the condenser or any other piece that
> could be ruined by drying out?  Can I just take the condenser out and flush
> it with water or paint thinner or something?  I guess, in a nutshell, what I
> want to know is, can I expect to be able to install a new compressor and
> hoses and have my A/C working again?
>
> Thanks,
> Blaine


The drier is located in-line of the condensor, it will have to be
replaced, but they are only $30. There is a special fluid for flushing
A/C parts, I would recommend taking the condensor to a shop, have them
flush it. Have them seal the condensor immediatly after flushing it. Do
not change the drier until you are ready to put the system together -
the drier will go bad in about 3 days if the system is open.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 17:43:02 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Another Overheating Question!

       Although I have a 350 in my '71 Cutlass, I'll give you the fan shroud
specs on mine.  The back edge of the fan blade (the engine side) is about
flush with the edge of the top of the shroud.  My cooling system is straight
OEM except the thermostat is a little cooler.  I run at 180 degrees whether
I'm idling, sitting in traffic, cruising on the highway, whatever.  As for
the overheating, you didn't comment on the current condition of your cooling
system.  I've never had an overheating problem if the thermostat, radiator,
hoses, and water pump were in good shape and consistent with manufacturer's
specs, regardless of driving conditions or weather.  I'd double-check the
obvious first.  You know, flush the radiator to get the sludge out and fill
it with fresh coolant/water mix, clean the cooling fins, make sure the
thermostat is in good shape (I had the t-stat literally come to pieces
inside the housing on my '84 Ciera, giving me no t-stat action at all and
sending pieces through my water pump and into the radiator!), make sure the
fan belt is tight enough, etc.  I'm not trying to insult your intelligence,
but we often overlook the obvious, because we're SURE it has to be something
else.

Good Luck

Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350


Chris & Robin Miller wrote:

>     I have a '68 442 with a 455 in it and it is running pretty warm but
> only at idle speeds, I'm talking 220 - 230 or so.  During highway speeds
> it stays around 190.  I was wondering if anyone out there has a similar
> set up and could measure how far their fan sits into the fan shroud for
> me.  It isn't running too lean, have tried different timings, replaced
> the fan clutch (from a thermal to a non-thermal), etc.  I am getting
> ready to try a flex fan with a spacer to move the fan out of the shroud
> a little but I HATE flex fans.  I may also try a pusher electric fan and
> would  like to know of any recommendations on those too.  Any help would
> be greatly appreciated.  Thanks.
>
> --
> Chris Miller
> '68 442
> San Diego, CA
> mailto:cya442@mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 18:01:31 EDT
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1968,  &  70-72 Master cylinders

Speaking about master Cylinders,

Does anyone out there know what is the proper master cylinder for my 68
Hurst/Olds?   Also  does anyone here know where I can buy one??  I want an
original,  not an aftermarket.


Thanks


Vinny

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 15:18:04 -0700
From: "Greg" <gjackso1@san.rr.com>
Subject: Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme parts

Jeff I have a nephew in Atl. let me know when you return and I will have
him stop by and check them out.

- ----------
> From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme parts
> Date: Wednesday, September 16, 1998 9:25 AM
>
> HAY GREG JEFF IN ATL>>>WHAT DID YOU DECIEDE ON THE BUMPER AND
>
> GRAVEL SHIELD>>>JEFF ATL<GA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 18:06:58 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: 200-R4 vs. 200-4R

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA


>overdrive 4th gear)
>
>Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma, Ohio
					
>
>'96 DCM Impala SS (Naisso #1365)  '87 Olds Cutlass 442 (OCA #028505)
>
Hey, I have an 87 Cutlass, and my bro has a 95 Impala.  I think he kinda
wishes he had waited for the tach and console shift!

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 18:22:32 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Overheating, thanks

I haven't tried it with a thormostat yet, because I've run without one in
the past and the engine always ran cooler, but I got a couple today, 160
& 180 and shall try them out tonight.  If that doesn't halp, I think I'll
be getting a radiator.  Main problem is I have to drive to Dover Sunday
(NASCAR! yes!) and drive to Villanova all next week, from Hilltown PA.
Everyone knows where that is right?
But thanks all for the responses!!!!

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 17:51:13 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: 200-4R

I believe it's 200-4R, and the other is 700-R4, yes 4R and R4...

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

On Tue, 15 Sep 1998 20:38:27 -0400 "Gary J Couse" <gjcouse@mhonline.net>
writes:
><The trans in a t-type is the strongest 200-4R that was available. It
>has
><different components from other 200-4Rs. If it's for any performance
><application, I've been told that it is highly recommended to start
>with a
>GN/T-type trans.
>Ray Costanzo 87 409 Cutlass
>Bucks County, PA
>
>Is that listed as a 200-R4?
>
>Gary.
>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 18:16:15 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: 1978 Cutlass parts

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

>     A lot of the places we called only deal with parts up to 1977.
>
Wlecome to the problem of owning a 78-87 (88 actually).



It's
>     been difficult to get parts.
>
.  I guess they're not in
>big
>     demand for this year yet.<---------------------Exactly!  "yet"!
You see the future too!

If you have patience, I'll be selling a set of SS3(?) wheels, 442
(?)style, no pop on rings or beauty rings, all one piece chrome all
through, no paint.  First I have to replace one of my Centerlines that is
cracked and get two tires.  That is about 4th or 5th on priority list at
this point.

>
>     An Olds Admirer,
>
>     Diane
>     Princeton, New Jersey
>     Email: diku@novo.dk
>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 18:23:47 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: 1968,  &  70-72 Master cylinders

> Does anyone out there know what is the proper master cylinder for my 68
> Hurst/Olds?   Also  does anyone here know where I can buy one??  I want an
> original,  not an aftermarket.


From the pictures I've seen of original '68 Hursts (factory photos), it
looks exactly like the ones used on the '69s.  So I suspect it's the
front disc brake master cylinder used on all the A bodies with power
brakes.  Nuttin' special about the Hurst master cylinders.  The '69
part number is 5468120 for the master cylinder assembly.  It is a rather
large dual bail jobbie with approximately equal reservoirs that bellow
out at the sides, not straight like other units.  I have the ORIGINAL
one from my H/O, and also an "aftermarket" style that looks very
similar.  Only difference I can see is the aftermarket ones do not have
the bleed screws on the M/C itself like the original, but the bosses are
there.  Also a different part number cast into the side, but it's the
same bore size, etc.  Functionally, it's the same.  I got the
"aftermarket" version from Jim Chermack, chermac@exis.net

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 17:20:55 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Virus Warning Update

Steve,
I got the warning from a good friend, responsible person, responsible
position, with a large responsible insurance co. It was sent to him by
management. Thought it was legitimate. Sorry to bother everyone, in trying
to do right it seems I have offended many people. Have worked with
computers for many years but I was never on the net until Feb. of this
year. Have no idea which ones are real and which are garbage. I feel bad
and please lets drop the thread. I have never been called moronic before
and it's not a nice feeling. I like this list and shall not send ANYTHING
concerning a virus again. Bet your butt! To anyone who did NOT chew me out,
thanks.
Lou Biggs
- ----------
> From: Reed, Steve <sreed@cp.varco.com>
> To: 'Olds' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Virus Warning Update

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 18:36:32 EDT
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds F-85

The ones in the cars I know of are not the greatest but would do in a pinch.
let me know if you are interested. Thanks Chris

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 18:36:09 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Quiz for the day...

I've got some 72 H/O information written down in my "nice to have"
booklet.  However, in my writings, I forgot exactly what information
this pertains to.  Paint.  Ditzler.  DDL 238 and DDL 24149.

Any clue to what colors these are???

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 18:37:08 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Lost my connection

No mail from the list in a couple of days. What happened?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 18:37:56 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Lost my connection

No mail from the list in a couple of days. What happened?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 18:41:54 EDT
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1968,  &  70-72 Master cylinders

Thanks Mike!


 What year is your H/O??

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 17:44:47 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?

Ray,
Who does your cams, would like to meet him. The man's a genius.
Lou

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 17:39:01 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@wans.net>
Subject: On the road at last!

Well after 9 long months, many a dollar, many a headache, and 2 engines
later, my Cutlass is finally back on the road. For those of you don't
remember or aren't aware, I had a valvetrain problem (exhaust valve bent
on me twice) that eventually led to me re-rebuilding the engine
(original '70 350) We had many theories as to what the cause was, but it
turned out that my crank had not been cross-drilled on the 1 & 3 mains
as I had requested, which was necessary for me to run the Mondello oil
restrictors. Anyways, the motor is running strong and great, it turned
out exactly as I had hoped. I am running the Comp Cams 270H magnum cam,
many the mid-range is explosive! I am running 3.73's in the rear with a
TH-2004R tranny. Just a little bit of stall on the line and nothing but
smoke! Can't wait to get it to the track to get official numbers, I am
thinking mid-13's

For those of you who have been considering the TH-2004R swap, but are
not sure about the tranny itself, I can say from experience that is
definetly worth the effort. The transmission is capable of hard shifts
and the overdrive it terrific. I got my transmission from George Patton
of GT Transmissions http://gspatton.home.mindspring.com/ in Georgia. The
tranny barks a 3rd and has very positive shifts. He did all the
necessary updates to make the tranny strong and reliable - I highly
recommend him.

Thought I would share with the group.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 17:44:15 -0500
From: "John Kreitzer" <john.kreitzer@gte.net>
Subject: Re: Quiz for the day...

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Rothe. <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, September 16, 1998 5:42 PM
Subject: Quiz for the day...


>I've got some 72 H/O information written down in my "nice to have"
>booklet.  However, in my writings, I forgot exactly what information
>this pertains to.  Paint.  Ditzler.  DDL 238 and DDL 24149.
>
>Any clue to what colors these are???
>
>Mike Rothe
>
The #24149 is the Wheel Color. I just saw mine which were painted yesterday.
They really look good. Don't know about the other #.

John

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 19:01:23 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Quiz for the day...

> >
> The #24149 is the Wheel Color. I just saw mine which were painted yesterday.
> They really look good. Don't know about the other #.

Thanks.  I sorta thought the long number was the wheel color.  Just
wanted to be sure.  Now, the tough part...what is the NAME of this
color?

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 19:06:33 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: tapitity tap  ........

List,
        I went to see/hear a 70' 350 powered Cutlass today. The owner
complained of a valve tap - UNDERSTATEMENT  !!!!.......

        Now the odd part - when it is first started it is quit  - after warm
up
it sounds as if all 16 lifters are chattering - stock TRW lifters - stock
rockers and mounts ........  any ideas  ??????


Tanks
The General

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 19:27:21 -0400
From: Peter Flinkfelt <pftno1klr@edgenet.net>
Subject: Re: tapitity tap  ........

Could the oil pump be on it's way out? Starts OK when cold, as it heats up and
the oil thins and less oil volume into the top end of engine? Only other idea 
is
someone removed the oil shield/intake gasket, btw is this a staock setup? My 71
S had one.

Peter
Patton wrote:

> List,
>         I went to see/hear a 70' 350 powered Cutlass today. The owner
> complained of a valve tap - UNDERSTATEMENT  !!!!.......
>
>         Now the odd part - when it is first started it is quit  - after warm
> up
> it sounds as if all 16 lifters are chattering - stock TRW lifters - stock
> rockers and mounts ........  any ideas  ??????
>
> Tanks
> The General

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 19:19:51 EDT
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: tapitity tap  ........

#1 check the oil and ask when was the last time they changed it.
#2 check the oil pressure
#3 ask if they rebuilt the motor or had a valve job done on it.
Try these first #2 being the worst
just my 2 cents

Chris Sommerville
69 442 SC
70 442 HC
70 W31
AND LOTS OF PARTS FOR SALE

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 19:29:55 -0400
From: Peter Flinkfelt <pftno1klr@edgenet.net>
Subject: Re: Virus Warning Update

Your welcome :)

Lou Biggs wrote:

> Steve,
> I got the warning from a good friend, responsible person, responsible
> position, with a large responsible insurance co. It was sent to him by
> management. Thought it was legitimate. Sorry to bother everyone, in trying
> to do right it seems I have offended many people. Have worked with
> computers for many years but I was never on the net until Feb. of this
> year. Have no idea which ones are real and which are garbage. I feel bad
> and please lets drop the thread. I have never been called moronic before
> and it's not a nice feeling. I like this list and shall not send ANYTHING
> concerning a virus again. Bet your butt! To anyone who did NOT chew me out,
> thanks.
> Lou Biggs
> ----------
> > From: Reed, Steve <sreed@cp.varco.com>
> > To: 'Olds' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > Subject: Virus Warning Update

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 19:32:19 -0400
From: Peter Flinkfelt <pftno1klr@edgenet.net>
Subject: Re: Carb crap getting needle & seat. was Car prob?? and ...

>  [Drat! what IS the name of that plastic that
> is inert to just about everything and used to make laboratory-ware??]

Lexan?

>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 19:25:35 EDT
From: SIDIALI@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1960 Dynamic 88 was: 1961 Dynamic 88

Thanks

Alex

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 19:29:14 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: tapitity tap  ........

Oil pressure diminishes with heat.  This engine cannot generate enough oil
pressure at full warm to keep the lifters pumped up.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Patton <patton@ComCAT.COM>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, September 16, 1998 7:13 PM
Subject: tapitity tap ........


>
>List,
>        I went to see/hear a 70' 350 powered Cutlass today. The owner
>complained of a valve tap - UNDERSTATEMENT  !!!!.......
>
>        Now the odd part - when it is first started it is quit  - after
warm
>up
>it sounds as if all 16 lifters are chattering - stock TRW lifters - stock
>rockers and mounts ........  any ideas  ??????
>
>
>Tanks
>The General
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 18:57:31 -0500
From: John Foster <jdfoster@n-link.com>
Subject: 1964  Cutlass Bumpers for sale

Folks,

         I have a set of bumpers (front and rear) for a 1964 cutlass,
 with mounting brackets for sale.  The bumpers need to be rechromed.

>                                         John

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 18:43:28 -0500
From: JR <joertexas@earthlink.net>
Subject: 72 Cutlass S For Sale

To All,

I need to sell my Cutlass because I need the money for other things.
It's a 1972 Cutlass S with a 350 4bbl and the 350 trans. It has 29,000
original miles, and it was rescued and put back on the road about two
years ago. I'm taking offers on the sale price. If you'd like more
details, please e-mail me privately.

Thanks,

JR

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 20:31:11 EDT
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass S For Sale

In a message dated 9/16/98 7:49:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
joertexas@earthlink.net writes:

<<
 To All,

 I need to sell my Cutlass because I need the money for other things.
 It's a 1972 Cutlass S with a 350 4bbl and the 350 trans. It has 29,000
 original miles, and it was rescued and put back on the road about two
 years ago. I'm taking offers on the sale price. If you'd like more
 details, please e-mail me privately.

 Thanks,

 JR >>
   Where is the car located?

Everett

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 20:30:37 EDT
From: RAC5419@aol.com
Subject: Re: Carb crap getting needle & seat. was Car prob?? and ...

In a message dated 98-09-16 19:27:48 EDT, you write:

<< >  [Drat! what IS the name of that plastic that
 > is inert to just about everything and used to make laboratory-ware??]

 Lexan?

 >


  >>
Nope, its Teflon.

Dick Compton
1972 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 19:37:08 -0500
From: "John Kreitzer" <john.kreitzer@gte.net>
Subject: Re: Quiz for the day...

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Rothe. <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, September 16, 1998 6:11 PM
Subject: Re: Quiz for the day...


>> >
>> The #24149 is the Wheel Color. I just saw mine which were painted
yesterday.
>> They really look good. Don't know about the other #.
>
>Thanks.  I sorta thought the long number was the wheel color.  Just
>wanted to be sure.  Now, the tough part...what is the NAME of this
>color?
>
>Mike Rothe
>
Next time I talk to the Body Shop I'll find the name, I'm also getting about
an extra 4oz. for touch-ups.

John

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 17:43:47 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Another Overheating Question!

> I may also try a pusher electric fan and would  like to know of any
> recommendations on those too.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks.

Chris I have the same problem with my 442 w/ 400. I'm on the desert of Yuma
and running around it gets up to 220 -230. I don't like it, but maybe part
is because it's a 3 row. Eventually I'm gonna go aluminum, but not until I
have some money. As far as the electric fan. It helps in traffic, but only
minimal. If your stock fan is working, then it's not much better even if you
put the two together. At least that is for me... Good luck.

Ben

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 20:56:40 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: still overheating

Well, I put a thermostat, no change.  I guess that is to be expected,
because if I run at 200 with no thermostat, it'll be the same with it,
because the thermo will just stay open, essentially the same as not being
here, right?  Damn it...

NEW QUESTION,
If I let the car sit and idle and peak out at the max temp it'll reach,
about 210, and turn on the heater, the temp should drop correct?  And if
it doesn't, which it didn't, what does that mean.  I think this somehow
makes it more likely that the radiator is the limiting facto in my
system.  The odd thing is, however, is that the radiator is the same one
I;ve always had.  And I lived in Tucson, Arizona for a year and cruised
around the CITY with the a/c on all the time, no problem.  Same in Las
Vegas, Phoenix and LA.  But it is of course possible that the radiator
worked properly then and is just beat now.  I think my best bet is to buy
a NEW radiator.  agree?

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 21:13:16 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: members.tripod Super Olds

Someone sent an address that was something or other SuperOlds.
Well, according to Compuserve, the address doesn't exist!

Same with someone's address that has g-body guage swap info!

ummm.....

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 21:06:22 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: General

Does the General happen to know Dr. Warner in Hilltown.  He IS the
Olds-man in this area, he's got like 17 of them or something crazy.  He's
got a real nice Pace Car edition 71 0r 72 Cutlass, among others.

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 21:01:29 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?

I made the cams myself from a wooden dowel rod and some golf tees.  Real
quick lift and instantaneoulsy short duration is the trick.  It fools the
engine into thinking it's getting quick shots of nitrous.

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

On Wed, 16 Sep 1998 17:44:47 -0500 "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
writes:
>Ray,
>Who does your cams, would like to meet him. The man's a genius.
>Lou
>
>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 21:10:12 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: G-body radiator/last year for the 350

Who can tell me, factually, what the largest radiator that will fit an 87
Cutlass is.

Also, what was the last year for the 350, 80 or 81?  If it was 81, was it
availaable in the Cutlass.  I've only heard of (gasoline) 350's in 80 and
eariler...


Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 21:20:47 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: alternator wire, snip snip

My alternator had two wires coming out of a little plug on it.  I guess
the regulator's in there?  One wire connects right to the 12v power post
on it, to control the regulator, I guess.  And the other one went to the
firewall, and somewhere from there.  Well I cut that wire and tucked it
away, and nothing happened.  All my accessories and everything still
work.  It could not have been a wire to supply power inside or to the
fuse block anyway, it was just too thin.  I'm guessing it just goes to
the idiot light, right.  Or maybe where I used to have a computer?
Should I expect to stall and have a dead battery or anything?

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 21:16:13 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Guage package

When i go to put the guage cluster in my 87, how will I do it with the
completely different engine.  Right now, I have mecjanical oil and temp
guages.  Under my hood is basically nothing but an engine, a master
cylinder, and an incompetent radiator.  I have no computer, or electrical
anything, really.  well except the choke on the AFB.  I know I'll need to
get some sending units or something, will they work with an Edelbrick
intake.  Do I need a computer in the car,  I would assume/hope not.

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

_____________________________________________________________________
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Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 22:23:28 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: ADMIN: Digest Size Question

For those folks getting the list in digest mode, a question. Please
respond directly to me at ab348@chebucto.ns.ca please.

The size of the digest currently is set to approximately 60k per digest.
The suggestion has been made that it should be smaller, perhaps 40k, to
make reading it a little easier. This would result in more digests being
issued however since each one would be smaller.

I could go either way with no problem. Let me know what you all think.
Thanks!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 20:26:30 -0700
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: G-body radiator/last year for the 350

- -----Original Message-----
From: Ray Costanzo <rocket409@juno.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, September 16, 1998 6:16 PM
Subject: G-body radiator/last year for the 350


>Who can tell me, factually, what the largest radiator that will fit an 87
>Cutlass is.
>
>Also, what was the last year for the 350, 80 or 81?  If it was 81, was it
>availaable in the Cutlass.  I've only heard of (gasoline) 350's in 80 and
>eariler...
>
1980 was the last (gasoline) 350. I've got one in my 80 Toro.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================
List Removal & Guidelines
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 21:26:51 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: block thread messed up! Suggestions?

<snip>

>How can you fix a probem like that? Can you deposit metal with welding
>and drill and tap it? jbweld again?? If welding works, what method and
>metal? (Friends have every welder I can think of...)


The books say cast iron can be welded with either a torch or arc, but there
are provisos. You must first clean profusely all oil grease dirt and
graphite (an oxidizing flame can be used to burn off the graphite). The
whole thing should be preheated to 800-900 degrees to avoid stresses- not
very practical - although for small areas you can preheat locally with a
torch. After welding it must cool very slowly to avoid hardening problems
(cast iron has carbon and will get mighty hard). That means covering with
fireproof insulation (asbestos?).

Brazing is also possible, and would be stronger than the epoxy you had
before. But temperature control is critical for acceptable results.

Get a copy of Marks' Standard Handbook for Mechanical Engineers at your
library. Details are there. I would try brazing, personally.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 22:28:56 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: '68 Disk Brake M/C (Again)

I remember seeing the disk brake m/c described earlier today as having the
"bellowed out" shape on the sides. I didn't know it was also used in '69
though, since they changed from 4-piston calipers to single piston ones
that year (if I recall correctly). So is it fair to assume that you could
use any of the disk brake m/c setups regardless of what type of calipers
you're running? Any insight gang?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 21:33:18 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator Question

>With the accessories on, my radio and lights have a slight quiver and dim a
>bit when the car idles. This situation disappears when I accelerate. I
bought
>a new chrome alternator (63amp) from JC Whitney

Was the pulley the same size on your new alternator? Sounds like it's just
not turning fast enough.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 21:30:58 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: G-body radiator/last year for the 350

1980 was the last year for the gasoline 350.  The 307 motor replaced the 350
in 1980.  I do know of some 1980 Cutlasses with 307's, so the transition
must have happened mid-year.

And, I haven't been following the thread closely, but you were worried that
200 was hot?  Just as a reference, my 307 runs at 210-215 normally and
around 225 at the max.  Boil-over temperature is around 260, so anything
around 220 or lower should be perfectly fine.  Are you worried about it
boiling over or you'd just rather have the temp lower than it is?

Jason Adcock
E-mail: rocketolds@vt.edu
Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Ray Costanzo <rocket409@juno.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, September 16, 1998 9:15 PM
Subject: G-body radiator/last year for the 350


>Who can tell me, factually, what the largest radiator that will fit an 87
>Cutlass is.
>
>Also, what was the last year for the 350, 80 or 81?  If it was 81, was it
>availaable in the Cutlass.  I've only heard of (gasoline) 350's in 80 and
>eariler...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 09:36:42 -0400
From: Andy Mikesell <andymikesell@mediaone.net>
Subject: Engine bog

I recently replaced my carb, points, and vacuum advance.  The rebuilt
Rochester 2 bbl carb was tuned at a local shop.  The engine was running
fine, but a bog / stall has started occurring and recently is much
worse.  Any ideas to what could be causing this?

The bogging occurs at the top of the shift (1-2, 2-3) under light load
and upon acceleration between 5-10 mph.  Bog does not occur under WOT.

Is it a bad carb rebuild?  Something much different?  Any ideas?

Thanks - Andy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 18:47:35 -0700
From: "Greg" <gjackso1@san.rr.com>
Subject: Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme parts

Jeff my address is jackso1@san.rr.com

- ----------
> From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme parts
> Date: Wednesday, September 16, 1998 9:25 AM
>
> HAY GREG JEFF IN ATL>>>WHAT DID YOU DECIEDE ON THE BUMPER AND
>
> GRAVEL SHIELD>>>JEFF ATL<GA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 21:52:43 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: alternator wire, snip snip

>My alternator had two wires coming out of a little plug on it.  I guess
>the regulator's in there?  One wire connects right to the 12v power post
>on it, to control the regulator, I guess.  And the other one went to the
>firewall, and somewhere from there.  Well I cut that wire and tucked it
>away, and nothing happened.

Silly boy. Just couldn't leave it alone, could ya?

>All my accessories and everything still
>work.  It could not have been a wire to supply power inside or to the
>fuse block anyway, it was just too thin.  I'm guessing it just goes to
>the idiot light, right.  Or maybe where I used to have a computer?
>Should I expect to stall and have a dead battery or anything?
>

Your tires will wear funny now, and you might have to use leaded gasoline.
And, oh yeah, the idiot light won't work either.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 19:09:54 -0700
From: Chris & Robin Miller <cya442@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Another Overheating Question!

Thomas P. Smith wrote:

>         As for the overheating, you didn't comment on the current condition 
of
> your cooling system.  I've never had an overheating problem if the 
thermostat,
> radiator, hoses, and water pump were in good shape and consistent with
> manufacturer's specs, regardless of driving conditions or weather.  I'd
> double-check the obvious first.  You know, flush the radiator to get the
> sludge out and fill it with fresh coolant/water mix, clean the cooling fins,
> make sure the
> thermostat is in good shape (I had the t-stat literally come to pieces
> inside the housing on my '84 Ciera, giving me no t-stat action at all and
> sending pieces through my water pump and into the radiator!), make sure the
> fan belt is tight enough, etc.  I'm not trying to insult your intelligence,
> but we often overlook the obvious, because we're SURE it has to be something
> else.
>
> Good Luck
>
> Thomas P. Smith
> 1971 Cutlass S 350

=======================================Thomas,

    That is what has me puzzled.  I just put this engine back together and it
has a clean 4-core radiator, new thermostat, good belt, etc.  I am going to try
the High Flow thermostat that everyone has been talking about and maybe the
40-Below Anti-Freeze additive and see what happens.


Chris Miller
'68 442
San Diego, CA
mailto:cya442@mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 22:02:24 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Olds/Toro Searchable archives??

The archive that I have found indexes posts by a number, with no Subject:
line. It is impossible to find posts about a given topic.

Is there another entry into the archive which lists by thread/subject, or one
that allows entry of search terms?

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 22:11:16 EDT
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70-72 Master cylinders

In a message dated 9/16/98 8:18:50 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM writes:

<<
 I would be interested to hear from other List members who own a 1970 with
 manual disc brakes.  What type of master cylinder is on your car?  The
 original style disc cylinder features a large front and a small rear
 reservoir.  Whereas the drum style cylinder originally had equal front and
 rear size reservoirs.

 Greg Rollin
 ______________
  >>
Hi Greg
   I stripped a 70 Cutlass this spring with manual disk brakes and the master
cylinder  was what appeared to be a drum brake cylinder. Both reservoirs were
small and the same size. The was had been butchered body and interior wise but
the suspension and brakes were all original from what we could notice.

Everett   OCA#  1961   1961  Starfire


E&G Automotive
PO Box 16095
9 Newman Ave
Rumford, R.I. 02916

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 23:07:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Re: Virus Warning Update

Just don't send a virus ;-).


>and it's not a nice feeling. I like this list and shall not send ANYTHING
>concerning a virus again. Bet your butt! To anyone who did NOT chew me out,
>thanks.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1488
*********************************
