Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.Ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.Ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1492


oldsmobile-digest     Friday, September 18 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1492



engine offset
RE: 82 GN's
Re: Member countries; (was Olds list opinions wanted)
EGR Tubes
Re: Olds list opinion wanted
aiuminum intake?
Re: The Pinging 307
Re: Installing Drip Moldings
Re: Buying/shipping cars long distance
RE: TIMING LIGHTS
Re: 82 GN's
Re:  Re: Olds list opinion wanted
RE: Installing Drip Moldings
Re:  Impala & Cutlass
RE: 82 GN's
RE: Installing Drip Moldings
Mallory Dual Point Problem in 69 CS
Re: aiuminum intake?
Re: aiuminum intake?
Re: Impala & Cutlass
Re: Installing Drip Moldings
Re: Buying/shipping cars long distance
Re: Installing Drip Moldings
RE: 82 GN's
Re: tapitity tap  ........
Re: Best way to paint a semicircle?
RE: aluminum intake?
Re: Installing Drip Moldings
Re: The pinging 307
even more master cylinder issues
Re: 70-72 Master cylinders
Re: TIMING LIGHTS
Re: even more master cylinder issues
Re: TIMING LIGHTS
Re: Best way to paint a semicircle?
Re: The pinging 307
Re: TIMING LIGHTS
Re: 70-72 Master cylinders
Re: '69 Antennas
Re: even more master cylinder issues
found a '78 350cid cutlass
Re: 70 Master cylinders
Re: Impala & Cutlass
Windshield Antennas
Re: EGR Tubes
Rain
Re: Edelbrock Performer RPM "kit"
Re: 82 GN's
Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?
Re: can't get into Rocket Talk
Re: Parts interchange from an 84 t-type
Survey needs swaying!!!!!
RE: 70 Master cylinders
'79 H/O W-30 For sale (Clarksville, TN)
1971 parts
Re: still overheating
Re: Carb Problems

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 21:46:24 -0500
From: "Poppy30" <Poppy30@email.msn.com>
Subject: engine offset

I HAVE A 71 SUPREME 350 ENG & TRANS. I HAVE MEASURED THE ENGINE BAY & FOUND
THE ENGINE OFFSET 1 INCH FROM CENTER TO THE RIGHT. THE FAN SHROUD IS ALSO
SLOTTED, AND MINE IS SLID ALL THE WAY TO THE RIGHT. I TALKED TO MONDELLO AND
ALL THE TOP HEADER MANUFACTURERS AND THEY ALL CONFIRMED THE OFFSET.NO ONE
KNOWS WHY GM DID THIS ONLY ON SUPREMES.MONDELLO SAID THE CAR FRAME, CHASIS,
BODY ETC... ARE THE SAME ON ALL MODELS,THEY JUST INSTALLED THE ENGINE 1 INCH
TO THE RIGHT. HEADER MANUFACTURERS DO NOT MAKE HEADERS TO FIT ONLY ONE
SPECIFIC MODEL BECAUSE IT IS NOT COST EFFECTIVE, SO THEY TOLD ME. BECAUSE
THE CROSS MEMBER THE ENGINE SITS ON IS NOT FLAT,SIMPLY MOVING THE  ENGINE
LEFT WOULD CAUSE IT TO TILT ONE WAY. THATS WHY I FIGURED THE METAL FRAME
BRACKETS THE MOUNTS SIT ON MUST BE DIFFERENT..... SHORTER FOR THE LEFT,
TALLER FOR THE RIGHT, TO KEEP THE ENGINE LEVEL. WHAT I NEED IS FOR SOMEONE
WITH A 71 442,455 TO MEASURE THEIR ENGINE LOCATION FOR ME... WHICH HOLES IN
THE CROSSMEMBER THE MOUNT BRACKETS ARE BOLTED IN, THE HEIGHT OF THE LEFT &
RIGHT BRACKETS,DISTANCE BETWEEN THE BRACKETS ETC.... AS MUCH INFO AS
POSSIBLE TO HELP ME GET THE 455 IN ON CENTERSO I CAN GET THE BIG HEADERS TO
FIT. I DO NOT WANT TO ARGUE OVER THE FACT THE ENGINE IS OFFSET, I KNOW IT TO
BE TRUE,OR WHY OLDS DID IT,I JUST NEED HELP GETTING THE ENGINE BACK TO
CENTER AS EASSILY AS POSSIBLE. I AM A SERVICE TECH AT A GENERAL REPAIR
SHOP&WILL GET THE ENGINE CENTERED, JUST WANT TO MAKE IT AS SIMPLE AS
POSSIBLE.ANY HELP OR INFO WOULD BE APPRECIATED.POPPY30@MSN.COM

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 22:04:35 -0400
From: "Gary J Couse" <gjcouse@mhonline.net>
Subject: RE: 82 GN's

Not worth the time...

- ----Regards,


Gary J. Couse

Couse Customs

gjcouse@mhonline.net <mailto:gjcouse@mhonline.net>

gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>

cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com <mailto:cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com>

 

"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS









<>-----Original Message-----
<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Nathyn M. Knipe
<>Sent: Thursday, September 17, 1998 9:54 PM
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<>Subject: Re: 82 GN's
<>
<>
<>oh yeah...i definately think the GN is the most attractive G-body...sorry
<>hard core cutlass fans.....maybe that is why i have grand national rims on
<>my cutlass and am thinking about putting the fender vents and a hood scoop
<>(plus they are cheaper) from a GN on my
<>car ....so go ahead everyone..start sending me hate mail....
<>
<>On Thu, 17 Sep 1998, Ray Costanzo wrote:
<>
<>> Hey.  I hate to admit this, but a Grand National is better looking than
<>> any Cutlass I've ever seen.  Overall, I lke the Cutli more than the
<>> Regal's which is why I decided, a few years ago, to get an Olds instead
<>> of a Buick.  But I still think the best looking car ever made is a GN.
<>>
<>>
<>> >
<>> >Yes, yes, yes. Exactly why I'm creating the Cutlass IROC-SS. Based on
<>> >the
<>>
<>> _____________________________________________________________________
<>> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
<>> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
<>> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
<>>
<>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 22:08:41 -0400
From: "George & Joan C. Lesperance" <gal1@MNSi.Net>
Subject: Re: Member countries; (was Olds list opinions wanted)

A few yers ago George sold a set of heads to someone in Minnisota.  We had a
very hard time getting them across the border from Windsor to Detroit. Then we
had to package them in a suit case they were wrapped up inside. to get the bus
company to transport them We ended up paying through the nose in U.S. money
transportation costs.  Wasn't really worth our while to send the parts but we
promised so we did.        I bet it is even worse today - not to mention the
cost of exchange and customs agrivations..    Joan

Drew Senko wrote:

> > Sometimes it would be nice just to know how far this list has taken us.  I
> > know in Canada and the U.S. but where in these countries and where else -
> > One form Norway the other night - that was nice to know.  The information 
is
> > very informative and interesting.  Just my opinion.
> > Talk to you later.
> > Joan
>
> There are currently members on the Olds list and/or digest from the
> following countries:
>
> Australia
> Canada
> Denmark
> Finland
> France
> Netherlands
> New Zealand
> Norway
> US
>
> I can remember years ago we had a list member that I think was in the
> US military and on assignment somewhere in South America, but he may have
> moved back to the homeland.
>
> Shipping rates may be reasonable within the USA, but keep this list of
> countries in mind when you comment about shipping.  I bet that shipping
> within Canada is a snap also.  I have no idea what happens when you try to
> ship across borders.  What would it cost to ship a hood overseas vs. within
> the US?  Of course, the overseas buyer may have no other choice, but
> knowing the whereabouts of the part may help make the decision.
>
> Oldsmobiles are enjoyed by a global community!
>
>  --                           ______________                     _
> Drew Senko                   / Convertibles \                    |\
> dsenko@uu.net                \_____Rule!____/     .__====-_._____|_\______
> Vienna, VA, USA                            O      [   ___  |-     |  ___  \
> http://members.aol.com/drewinva              o o  =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)
> 
______________________________________________________\_/____________\_/_____

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 22:08:48 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: EGR Tubes

List, (mebbe Tom L. in particular), assume that my pinging is caused by a
blocked EGR tube.  Is there a way to clean these out short of taking the top
of the engine apart?  Taking the carb off, although it'd probably be a much
more complete way to do it, is just not possible, given my experience and
short time (Saturday only).  Can I take the EGR valve off and clean them
from there?  I'd get some real thick pipe cleaners and "scrub" in there and
use a vacuum to remove the loosened filth.

Sound reasonable?

Thanks again!

Jason Adcock
E-mail: rocketolds@vt.edu
Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 22:13:36 EDT
From: OLDZ69442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds list opinion wanted

In a message dated 9/17/98 12:34:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time, JJP442@aol.com
writes:

<<
 How come when someone has something for sale or trade on this list they never
 say where there from? Do you assume we live around the corner from each
other?
 (though the thought of Oldsmobiles parked up and down the street would be
 pleasing to see). I don't know how it is for the rest of the list but,
 shipping is a large factor in making a purchase as far as I'm concerned. How
 does everybody else feel about this? I guess I'm just trying to simplify
these
 transactions alittle.
 John
 JJP442@aol.com

  >>
Excellent thought.  I think ALL posts should include location.  It's nice to
know where everyone is.  And particularly when an item is for sale.

Bob Iozia
Brick NJ
69 442
70 442
67 Cutlass Cvt

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 23:16:21 -0300
From: Wade M Hunt <wade.hunt@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: aiuminum intake?

i picked up an  aluminum intake in the early 70`s.It has W-455 wrote on
it.It is not a highrise. Could someone tell me what kind of car it came
of.Thank you.wade.hunt@ns.sympatico.ca

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 22:20:11 EDT
From: GWright442@aol.com
Subject: Re: The Pinging 307

I have an 87' 307 that is doing the same thing.  I put a message out on the
net and a guy just sent me a reply.  He said that on later 307's (85 & up)
with roller lifters the valve springs are not adequate potentially causing a
valve rattle that sounds like pinging.  Can you let me know what else you
hear?

Thanks
Greg Wright

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 22:24:29 EDT
From: TomW30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Installing Drip Moldings

  Have you checked with "Year One"?  Seems I remember them listing a tool for
drip mouldings. I'll check my other catalogs tonight. I know I've seen one
offered somewhere!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 22:28:03 EDT
From: GWright442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Buying/shipping cars long distance

I purchased a car by giving a certified check to the driver to deliver to the
seller.  It worked out fine.  I wish I had a video of the car before I
purchased though.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 22:29:31 -0400
From: "Gary J Couse" <gjcouse@mhonline.net>
Subject: RE: TIMING LIGHTS

<snip>

>Please excuse my naivete (sp?)...I'm kind of embarrassed about this.

no problem. Hey before i joined this list i had never swapped an engine. :)
this list does strange things to you if your not carefull.

<new>

woohoo I feel like Bart Simpson on whatever.
 Serous though. If you have an Olds, the list will embrace you. Lord knows
that since I'm creating "Quincy" The Cutlass IROC-SS, many have shunned and
some have secretly e-mailed support. nonetheless, all accept the fact that
Quincy exists. Even though it may be a project counter to the majority
liking, still, it's all Olds, through & through. Many are interested in the
outcome. IE.,  sift through the flack as knowledge exists here than wouldn't
be available without this medium. I'd still like to create a G-Body list.
What is here is pure experience. I'll take that over any part book. Live on
list and thank you all for the education...


- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse

Couse Customs

gjcouse@mhonline.net <mailto:gjcouse@mhonline.net>
gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>
cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com <mailto:cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com>

 
"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 22:30:37 EDT
From: TomW30@aol.com
Subject: Re: 82 GN's

 "A" bodies, Olds wins. No question. "G" bodies, the GN (as much as I hate to
admit it) catches my eye. Think we could trim out an '87 Cutlass in GN
clothing?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 22:31:15 EDT
From: JJP442@aol.com
Subject: Re:  Re: Olds list opinion wanted

I guess you must like e-mail tag. The way I see it if I know what you're
selling and where your selling it from all in the same message it makes my
decision to pursue the part that much easier. So far everybody else agrees
with me. I know some parts are hard to find. So when you get a line on that
part wouldn't you want to know all the info in one e-mail???
That's the way I see it,
John,
JJP442@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 22:33:04 -0400
From: "Gary J Couse" <gjcouse@mhonline.net>
Subject: RE: Installing Drip Moldings

Does Year One have a web site?

- ----Regards,


Gary J. Couse

Couse Customs

gjcouse@mhonline.net <mailto:gjcouse@mhonline.net>

gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>

cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com <mailto:cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com>

 

"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS









<>-----Original Message-----
<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of TomW30@aol.com
<>Sent: Thursday, September 17, 1998 10:24 PM
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<>Subject: Re: Installing Drip Moldings
<>
<>
<>  Have you checked with "Year One"?  Seems I remember them
<>listing a tool for
<>drip mouldings. I'll check my other catalogs tonight. I know I've seen one
<>offered somewhere!
<>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 22:33:15 EDT
From: JJP442@aol.com
Subject: Re:  Impala & Cutlass

Never thought I'd be educating sooooo many people on what "442"means.
John,
JJP442@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 22:38:02 -0400
From: "Gary J Couse" <gjcouse@mhonline.net>
Subject: RE: 82 GN's

Watch for the Cutlass IROC-SS. GN, well let's see...

- ----Regards,


Gary J. Couse

Couse Customs

gjcouse@mhonline.net <mailto:gjcouse@mhonline.net>

gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>

cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com <mailto:cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com>

 

"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS









<>-----Original Message-----
<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of TomW30@aol.com
<>Sent: Thursday, September 17, 1998 10:31 PM
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<>Subject: Re: 82 GN's
<>
<>
<> "A" bodies, Olds wins. No question. "G" bodies, the GN (as much
<>as I hate to
<>admit it) catches my eye. Think we could trim out an '87 Cutlass in GN
<>clothing?
<>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 19:48:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Installing Drip Moldings

- ---Gary J Couse <gjcouse@mhonline.net> wrote:
>
> Does Year One have a web site?

- ----don't know,I'm looking in their new catalog...not found yet...I'll
get eastwood cat. from garage...they got it I bet...back in a few...
               SMAN

==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 22:52:55 -0400
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@pa.net>
Subject: Mallory Dual Point Problem in 69 CS

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_00E4_01BDE28D.E8381EA0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Joe P. just pointed out that my distributor was not a UNILITE.
IT IS a MALLORY dual point mechanical Distributor
He is absolutely correct ... as Joe usually is ... and that is a =
compliment.

It came in a UNILITE BOX ... and the box was sitting in front of me.

My problem remains. I have the box but no tech instructions.
Does anyone know what the dwell on the points should be ...
Or how I can get to Mallory on-line to get some assistance ?

Thanks to all   =20
Ken Swick
swickka@pa.net

- ------=_NextPart_000_00E4_01BDE28D.E8381EA0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Joe P. just pointed out that my =
distributor was=20
not a UNILITE.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>IT IS a MALLORY dual point =
mechanical=20
Distributor</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>He is absolutely correct ... as Joe =
usually is=20
... and that is a compliment.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>It came in a UNILITE BOX ... and the =
box was=20
sitting in front of me.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>My problem remains. I have the box =
but no tech=20
instructions.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Does anyone know what the dwell on =
the points=20
should be ...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Or how I can get to Mallory on-line =
to get some=20
assistance ?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks to all&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Ken Swick<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:swickka@pa.net">swickka@pa.net</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HT=
ML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_00E4_01BDE28D.E8381EA0--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 22:55:42 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: aiuminum intake?

Wade M Hunt wrote:
>
> i picked up an  aluminum intake in the early 70`s.It has W-455 wrote on
> it.It is not a highrise. Could someone tell me what kind of car it came
> of.Thank you.wade.hunt@ns.sympatico.ca

This came off a W30 car. It is worth some $$money$$ if it's in good
condition.

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 22:48:29 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: aiuminum intake?

Wade M Hunt wrote:
>
> i picked up an  aluminum intake in the early 70`s.It has W-455 wrote on
> it.It is not a highrise. Could someone tell me what kind of car it came
> of.Thank you.wade.hunt@ns.sympatico.ca


It came off of a 70-72 W-30.  No flow differences than a regular cast
iron intake, but it's made of aluminum, so less weight, plus it looks
cool.  Plus the pcv connects to the little nipple just behind the water
outlet, a little to the passenger side.  On the bottom of the intake
there should be a date code.  Gives an idea of what year it came off
of.  If it's not cracked/warped, it's a VERY desirable manifold to have
if you own a W-30 that needs one.  Hard to find item.  Otherwise, it's
not much use, really.  Unless of course you just like the cool looks.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 22:52:42 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Impala & Cutlass

> Never thought I'd be educating sooooo many people on what "442"means.

442?  What's that?  Is that like the engine size?  That must be the
horsepower?  Four barrel, four something and 2-wheel drive?  Four
forty-two?  Doesn't that stand for something?.........

I know, I've heard almost ALL of them...

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 22:46:34 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Installing Drip Moldings

S-MAN wrote:

> ---Gary J Couse <gjcouse@mhonline.net> wrote:
> >
> > Does Year One have a web site?
>
> ----don't know,I'm looking in their new catalog...not found yet...I'll
> get eastwood cat. from garage...they got it I bet...back in a few...
>                SMAN
>

Year One' website is  http://www.yearone.com .

Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 23:00:09 EDT
From: DKlauber@aol.com
Subject: Re: Buying/shipping cars long distance

When I bought my 71 I had a good friend living in Lake Tahoe check it out, and
since he knew the gentleman, I just sent him the check and he worked with my
shipper to arrange and ship the car.  On my 70 that I just bought, I ended up
flying in and had the shipping arranged for the same day.  Got photos and
video prior, and test drove and shipped it that same day.  I bought it in
Orlando, and found a good shipping company in Orlando that could keep it
(inside storage) until the next truck went out.  I ran into the same problem
with giving the shipping company the check.  They then have the $ and the car!
I checked  with the Better Business Bureau, but still decided it was worth the
money to fly in and not have the worries of something going REALLY wrong.
Good luck and I hope it all works out well for you
David OCA# 30416
70 442 W-30 conv

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 21:33:01 -0400
From: Gary Standiford <phred@fwi.com>
Subject: Re: Installing Drip Moldings

S-MAN wrote:
>
> ---Gary J Couse <gjcouse@mhonline.net> wrote:
> >
> > Does Year One have a web site?
>
> ----don't know,I'm looking in their new catalog...not found yet...I'll
> get eastwood cat. from garage...they got it I bet...back in a few...
>                SMAN
>
> ==
> John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
> TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
> 1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
> http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
> Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
> -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts
>
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

Year One, Inc. Web site URL is: http://www.yearone.com/


Need any others, I have quite a few.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 20:07:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: 82 GN's

- ----Original Message-----
> <>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> <>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of TomW30@aol.com
> <>Sent: Thursday, September 17, 1998 10:31 PM
> <>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Think we could trim out an '87 Cutlass in GN
> <>clothing?
> <>
>
> Well,You can get a ~rough~ idea what it would look like on my
84....it's the result of a 3 day weekend....lotsa beer...lotsa
spraycans...lotsa beer....lotsa beer...
                    SMAN
 ps...I got to do bodywork ~anyway~ :)


==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 98 23:09:27 EDT
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: tapitity tap  ........

At 07:06 PM 9/16/98 -0400, you wrote:
>
>List,
>        I went to see/hear a 70' 350 powered Cutlass today. The owner
>complained of a valve tap - UNDERSTATEMENT  !!!!.......
>
>        Now the odd part - when it is first started it is quit  - after warm
>up
>it sounds as if all 16 lifters are chattering - stock TRW lifters - stock
>rockers and mounts ........  any ideas  ??????
>
>
>Tanks
>The General
>
>

    I smell a rat.....stay away.


  Glenn
  '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 23:15:13 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Best way to paint a semicircle?

>
>Anyone know how I can get a nice clean semi
>circular tape line or other block for the overspray?
>
>Listening....
>
>cf


Chris, you'd be surprised at how well you could do this with masking tape
and your eyeball. Tape it up, stand back and look...make an
adjustment....look again. It won't take long to get good enough.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 23:12:34 -0400
From: "Gary J Couse" <gjcouse@mhonline.net>
Subject: RE: aluminum intake?

I once had an Eldibrock aluminum 4-duce pac manifold that was Olds based.
Someone stole it from it's location so I can't describe or give #'s, yet I
know it fit a 455. (Personally dissembled it. Anyone know about a BB
Eldibrock 4-pac?

- ----Regards,


Gary J. Couse

Couse Customs

gjcouse@mhonline.net <mailto:gjcouse@mhonline.net>

gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>

cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com <mailto:cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com>

 

"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS









<>-----Original Message-----
<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Mike Rothe.
<>Sent: Thursday, September 17, 1998 10:48 PM
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<>Subject: Re: aiuminum intake?
<>
<>
<>Wade M Hunt wrote:
<>>
<>> i picked up an  aluminum intake in the early 70`s.It has W-455 wrote on
<>> it.It is not a highrise. Could someone tell me what kind of car it came
<>> of.Thank you.wade.hunt@ns.sympatico.ca
<>
<>
<>It came off of a 70-72 W-30.  No flow differences than a regular cast
<>iron intake, but it's made of aluminum, so less weight, plus it looks
<>cool.  Plus the pcv connects to the little nipple just behind the water
<>outlet, a little to the passenger side.  On the bottom of the intake
<>there should be a date code.  Gives an idea of what year it came off
<>of.  If it's not cracked/warped, it's a VERY desirable manifold to have
<>if you own a W-30 that needs one.  Hard to find item.  Otherwise, it's
<>not much use, really.  Unless of course you just like the cool looks.
<>
<>Mike Rothe
<>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 20:16:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Installing Drip Moldings

> > ----don't know,I'm looking in their new catalog...not found
yet...I'll
> > get eastwood cat. from garage...they got it I bet...back in a few...

- ---Sorry,can't find it right now,I'll keep looking.
             Sman
==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 03:19:06 +0000
From: clarence wirtz <cw63nova@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: The pinging 307

This worked on my 307.  Took the carb off and ran a drill bit thru the tubes
and cleaned out the carbon.  The pinging went away and it runs better.

At 01:47 PM 9/17/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Take off the carb and look down the intake to see if the EGR tubes
>(coming up from the bottom of the manifold, directly below the carb) are
>plugged with carbon.  If that's not it, check timing.
>
>Tom Lentz
>tlentz@ior.com
>
>
>
>
Clarence
86 Cutlass 4DR 307 O/D 2.56's
San Antonio

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 22:15:42 -0400
From: Joe_Gut <Joe_Gut@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: even more master cylinder issues

All this discussion on master cylinder ("m/c") is really on point for me
right now.  My '71 had the small (I assume) drum m/c even though the car
has disc brakes.  The brakes had good stopping power, but the back
brakes would lock pretty easily if I stopped hard.  I don't know if  a
prior owner changed to discs but didn't change the m/c or if he put on a
drum m/c.  Since the m/c was going bad (starting to sink to the floor at
lights), last weekend I changed to a disc m/c.  Interestingly (Joe P.),
it bolted right up, the fittings weren't different.

The brakes continue to work fine, however, the pedal pressure is notably
higher, and much higher than my '72 that has the original discs and disc
m/c.  Here's the question - I'm afraid that the prior owner just put on
the disc front brakes and didn't change the m/c or the proportioning
valve, and by putting the disc m/c on I have created an unsafe
situation.  Are the proportioning valves different on disc and drum?  Or
perhaps the fact that the disc m/c has a larger bore is causing my extra
firm pedal?

Any insight would be appreciated.

p.s. anyone else check out the '71 6 wheel toro limo at the St. Louis
Gateway Olds show last weekend?  What a hoot that thing was.

Joe Gutierrez OCA #30387, H/O #714
'71 442 convt
'72 H/O

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 23:20:07 EDT
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70-72 Master cylinders

In a message dated 98-09-17 15:21:51 EDT, you write:

<<   Help Brent and I come to a conclusion on this
 one, >>
I can tell you this 1972 oldsmobile chassis service manual list master
cylinder bore 1.'' for both manual brake & power brake drum. And 1 1/8 for
disk brake.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 23:34:10 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: TIMING LIGHTS

>Anyway, the timing on my Delta sucks, it almost stalls at almost every stop
>I make.  So I guess I need to buy a timing light.
>
>1.  Which brand should I get?  Which model?  Does it matter?  Does anybody
>have a favorite?


Get one that has a xenon flash tube. Don't get the cheap kind that uses a
neon lamp (no power required) - they're just not bright enough. I have a
chrome Sears jobber I've had for 15 years, still works great.

> Will the timing
>light come with instructions?

Yup.

>Should I return to the impulse I had earlier
>this summer and buy some shop manuals

Highly recommended, but timing specs should also be printed on your
emissions label. The 84 distributor has electronic advance. There's no
vacuum hoses to disconnect and plug. You disconnect the big connector that
goes to the computer then set the timing according to specs. Having someone
who's done it before watch you should give you all the confidence you need.
It's really simple.

Reset the computer afterward by pulling the 3 amp ECM fuse for about 15
seconds.

>Please excuse my naivete (sp?)...I'm kind of embarrassed about this.


That's why we're here.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 23:35:08 EDT
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: even more master cylinder issues

In a message dated 98-09-17 23:24:25 EDT, you write:

<<
 All this discussion on master cylinder ("m/c") is really on point for me
 right now.  My '71 had the small (I assume) drum m/c even though the car
 has disc brakes.  The brakes had good stopping power, but the back
 brakes would lock pretty easily if I stopped hard.  I don't know if  a
 prior owner changed to discs but didn't change the m/c or if he put on a
 drum m/c.  Since the m/c was going bad (starting to sink to the floor at
 lights), last weekend I changed to a disc m/c.  Interestingly (Joe P.),
 it bolted right up, the fittings weren't different.

 The brakes continue to work fine, however, the pedal pressure is notably
 higher, and much higher than my '72 that has the original discs and disc
 m/c.  Here's the question - I'm afraid that the prior owner just put on
 the disc front brakes and didn't change the m/c or the proportioning
 valve, and by putting the disc m/c on I have created an unsafe
 situation.  Are the proportioning valves different on disc and drum?  Or
 perhaps the fact that the disc m/c has a larger bore is causing my extra
 firm pedal? >>
I have the same exact problem and i have changed everything. Next step for me
is to go to the 1.'' bore master. As a matter of fact i wrote a letter
yesturday to HotRod asking them about this. Maybe we will get lucky and they
will put something in there tech column. Please let me know if you find
something out i have been chasing this around for a couple of years.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 20:31:53 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: TIMING LIGHTS

Brian Ammons wrote:

> So I guess I need to buy a timing light.
>
> 1.  Which brand should I get?  Which model?  Does it matter?  Does anybody
> have a favorite?

Brian,
There was a very good article in National Dragster a few weeks ago regarding
timing lights.  (Written by Wayne Scraba who in my opinion is doing an
outstanding job with the newly revised Racing Technology column).  Anyway, the
article was about the inaccuracies of many of the timing lights on the market.
Including many "professional" brands.  MSD had done extensive testing on timing
lights. Their results showed many of the lights were all over the place
especially at a higher than idle rpm.  Quite surprising really.  Just as I'm
thinking "Oh cr*p, now I've got to go and buy a new light", the article states
the Craftsman model that I've got was the most accurate.  Whew.  It is model
#161.213400.  I think I paid something like $89.00 for it ten or twelve years
ago.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 23:42:19 EDT
From: RAC5419@aol.com
Subject: Re: Best way to paint a semicircle?

In a message dated 98-09-17 23:24:39 EDT, you write:

<< >
 >Anyone know how I can get a nice clean semi
 >circular tape line or other block for the overspray?
 >
 >Listening....
 >
 >cf >>
Try tying a length of string to a thin point marker. Have an assistant hold
the other end of the string in place tightly and draw a perfect semicircle.
You'll need to practice a couple time to get the correct arch your looking
for. The bigger the semicircle the longer the string.

Dick Compton
72 442 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 23:45:44 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: The pinging 307

>Take off the carb and look down the intake to see if the EGR tubes
>(coming up from the bottom of the manifold, directly below the carb) are
>plugged with carbon.  If that's not it, check timing.
>
>Tom Lentz


Thank you for that reminder, Tom.

Jason, my 307 just started doing exactly the same thng! Pings at part
throttle, taking off from a stop. Goes away with more go-pedal. I was
thinking I had bad bearings (like my old V-6 did), but then it would get
worse with heavy load, and this one doesn't. Gets worse when hot, like right
after a highway cruise. Definitely throttle position related.

I understand you take the carb off and run a 3/8 drill thru the carboned-up
passages in the bottom of the manifold? Gonna try that this weekend.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 23:44:52 -0400
From: jgoble@nishanet.com (Jeramy Goble)
Subject: Re: TIMING LIGHTS

I have one of those Sears jobbers too. It works great, just don't drop it as
many times as I have.
Reggie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 23:41:05 -0400
From: "Brian Lorway" <blorway@rust.net>
Subject: Re: 70-72 Master cylinders

Single bail, equal size reservoirs, smallish in size. Thats whats on my '70.
I spent alot of time on the "bridge" at the centennial looking at all the
1970 4-4-2 W30's... It appeared to me that most of them had this style
master cylinder.

Brian

1970 4-4-2 W-30, 4-Speed
1971 4-4-2 W-30, Convertible
1987 GN (WE2)
OCA # 028157
www.wmachines.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Date: Thursday, September 17, 1998 3:26 PM
Subject: Re: 70-72 Master cylinders

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 18:47:04 -0700
From: Mr Ada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: '69 Antennas

GT5726@aol.com wrote:

> haha!....just put a power antenna in the front fender and drill 'er in the
> front...LIKE A MAN!

Has anyone tried to retrofit a power antenna into the front fender?  What was

done or had to be done?  How about using a modern flush mounted type power
antenna.  I am sure techology has solved some of the space issues.

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 21:09:05 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: even more master cylinder issues

Joe_Gut wrote:

> All this discussion on master cylinder ("m/c") is really on point for me
> right now.  My '71 had the small (I assume) drum m/c even though the car
> has disc brakes.  The brakes had good stopping power, but the back
> brakes would lock pretty easily if I stopped hard.  I don't know if  a
> prior owner changed to discs but didn't change the m/c or if he put on a
> drum m/c.  Since the m/c was going bad (starting to sink to the floor at
> lights), last weekend I changed to a disc m/c.  Interestingly (Joe P.),
> it bolted right up, the fittings weren't different.
>
> The brakes continue to work fine, however, the pedal pressure is notably
> higher, and much higher than my '72 that has the original discs and disc
> m/c.  Here's the question - I'm afraid that the prior owner just put on
> the disc front brakes and didn't change the m/c or the proportioning
> valve, and by putting the disc m/c on I have created an unsafe
> situation.  Are the proportioning valves different on disc and drum?  Or
> perhaps the fact that the disc m/c has a larger bore is causing my extra
> firm pedal?

Joe,
Since you suspect a disc changeover,  you will need to first identify
what year the donor parts are from.  As many of these
components are designed to work as a system.  Mixing and matching
components will create an unsafe condition.  What type of distribution block

is located on the frame?  Is it cast iron or brass?  Is there a metering
valve
located between the front master cylinder line and the distribution
block?  What type of calipers are they?  Four piston or single?

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 00:50:30 EDT
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: found a '78 350cid cutlass

riding down the road today i passed a black cutlass with a for sale sign in
the windshield.  since i was looking for another daily driver, i stopped and
took a look.  the guy who owned the car came out and started telling me a
little about it, and the car seems pretty nice.  original 350 OLDS engine,
TH350 tranny,  column shift, black vinyle interior, black exterior w/red
pinstripes.  original car, paint and interiorwise.  the only new things on
there is 4 new white letter tires, rebuilt tranny, and the guy has a dash
cover to put in. when i asked the guy how much he was asking, he said hed take
6 or 700 bucks.  hmm....  i wouldnt mind having this car, it runs, and i just
flat out like it.  so i think ill give him an offer of around 500 bucks, and
ill let him decide if he really wants to get rid of it quick. what do you guys
think?  good idea or bad?  how many '78 cutlasses came with an olds 350
engine?  i figure if i buy the car, put $500 into it, drive it for a year or
so, i can maybe sell it for $800.  this will accomplish my primary goal, which
is to work on my present '78 cutlass.
tell me what ya think
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 21:59:14 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: 70 Master cylinders

Brian Lorway wrote:

> Single bail, equal size reservoirs, smallish in size. Thats whats on my '70.
> I spent alot of time on the "bridge" at the centennial looking at all the
> 1970 4-4-2 W30's... It appeared to me that most of them had this style
> master cylinder.

AAARRRGGGHHH!!!
Well, at this point in the quest for what is the correct disc brake master
cylinder for a 1970 manual brake car, I've come to this conclusion.
Although I have NO printed material to support this, I'm beginning
to seriously wonder if there were two styles used (?).  Mike Rothe's
photo #3  http://www.xtalwind.net/~hurstolds/rocket5.html
shows a disc style cylinder used.  Which supports my
findings.  However there is enough evidence from List members
to support that the small drum brake cylinder was used.
Most of the responses have been W-30's, which was also
my source for confirming my research (4 1970 W-30 4 speed cars).
Since all W-30's were Lansing produced, we can rule out
different plants using different cylinders.
So based on my speculation here of two styles,  I suppose
the next step is vehicle build dates..........

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 01:29:32 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Impala & Cutlass

Mike Rothe. wrote:
>
> > Never thought I'd be educating sooooo many people on what "442"means.
>
> 442?  What's that?  Is that like the engine size?  That must be the
> horsepower?  Four barrel, four something and 2-wheel drive?  Four
> forty-two?  Doesn't that stand for something?.........
>
> I know, I've heard almost ALL of them...

Let's see.  I think it stands for 4 tires (rear two bald), 4 wheels and
a two speed transmission.  Whatever it stands for, it's a nice ride.
Nice to see you are still alive and Oldsmobiling, Mike.  Send some of
that rain up to Ky.  Need it to wash the dust off my cars.   :)

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky
(Used to stick the address on everything, but not many others did so I
stopped)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 22:51:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Windshield Antennas

I have been pricing a new windshield for my '69 and everyplace I phone asks
if I have the antenna in the windshield.  I have the rear mounted electric
but was windering if the windshield mounted was really an option that year
or just a acase of the same windshield fitting multiple years.

When did this option become available?


Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 22:51:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Re: EGR Tubes

I had blocked EGR ports which prevented my car from passing smog, Th rpblem
I found (on my Buick 4.1L anyway) was that the ports are not straight and
it is therefore difficult to dig the crap out with screwdrivers, pipe
cleaners, etc.

What I did was to remove the EGR valve and buy some powerful liquid fuel
system/engine cleaner (I think it was Berryman B12) from Chief.  I poured
the stuff into the EGR hole and blocked the opening to stop it from
evaporating (I used a autobody dolly).  After about an hour the stuff had
eaten through all the crud and disappeared down into the intake manifold
cleaning the ports.  I added a couple of more doses just to make sure it
was clean and have not had any problems since.


 >List, (mebbe Tom L. in particular), assume that my pinging is caused by a
>blocked EGR tube.  Is there a way to clean these out short of taking the top
>of the engine apart?  Taking the carb off, although it'd probably be a much
>more complete way to do it, is just not possible, given my experience and
>short time (Saturday only).  Can I take the EGR valve off and clean them
>from there?  I'd get some real thick pipe cleaners and "scrub" in there and
>use a vacuum to remove the loosened filth.
>
>Sound reasonable?
>
>Thanks again!
>
>Jason Adcock
>E-mail: rocketolds@vt.edu
>Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock




Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 23:23:18 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Rain

Don Sowers wrote:

> Whatever it stands for, it's a nice ride.
> Nice to see you are still alive and Oldsmobiling, Mike.  Send some of
> that rain up to Ky.  Need it to wash the dust off my cars.   :)

It rained here in Portlandia today for the first time in 47 days.  Never
thought I'd be happy to see the rain!  Been dust city for the last few
weeks.  Lots of traffic problems today due to people who forgot about all
that oil being brought to the surface : - (
Olds content:  The Vista Cruiser did not get hit by one of these morons!

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 01:38:21 -0500
From: "Tracy H. Shires" <twodogs@ou.edu>
Subject: Re: Edelbrock Performer RPM "kit"

At 05:48 PM 9/17/98 EDT, you wrote:
>I need suggestions!...I have just installed a Edelbrock Performer RPM cam,
>lifters, intake, and Performer carb(basically a Carter w/ electric choke). I
>didn't install adjustable rockers with this kit, as was deemed neccasary by
>Edelbrock. I am curious to know if I am the only one who has done this, as
the
>engine "seems" to be running pretty damn good!Oh!...I forgot to mention the
>specifics!...It's a '65 330 with the 10 1/4:1 compression. I have not

Well, I'm traveling down a very similiar route..

68 Olds 350 w/ #5 heads intake portmatched / exhaust bump removed
arias-mondello 10.25 forged pistons
edelbrock performer rpm cam/manifold/springs/carb
mondello roller adjustable rocker arm kit (CRANE&ARP)
blueprinted/balanced
MSD 6A ignition

All this is in a 81 Cutlass backed by a 200-4r and a posi 3.73 axle
2.5" duals w/ flowmaster three chambers and dynomax high flow cats
This combination make a very strange quite but aggresive sound..

Anyway, I haven't had the luck that you have apparantely., I've been
battleing with the rockers and now I'm about to go after the carb. So far I
haven't been very impressed, but I'll be able to give an updated report by
monday after I get this little bugs worked out. As it stands right now I've
lost a LOT of lower rpm torque, I can't even break the tires loose anymore..

As far as reccomended upgrades - the 3.23 axle ratio's pretty good -esp
without an overdrive transmission. Do you have a posi? That addition alone
took off 1/2 second of the 1/8th mile time on mine.

As far as the distributor is concerned you can recurve it, this may or may
not help Just experiment with it....Same thing with the timing.. If you
have acess to a track that is definately the best way..

Keep up updated on how it goes!! -and good luck


Tracy H. Shires

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 02:22:59 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: 82 GN's

Buick vs Olds vs Buick.....  Ooh :)

I, too, ~love~ the GN's, and select other Buick vehicles through time...
However, I'd take an 83 Hurst Olds over a GNX anyday.  Sorry.  The GNX is
nothing short of ~awesome~ but I ~still~ like the Cutlass body better.
Something about the bumpers just doesn't do it for me.  Looks ~too~ unplanned.
Don't like that.  Even in all-black, they just don't look right to me.  Too 
70's
maybe (sorry...)  Still love 'em, but still love the Olds even more.  (Don't 
try
that argument with ~women~....  "Still love 'er, but love my car ~much~
more..."  :)  bound to be eating McDonalds for awhile!  :)

So many minor details set the BOP's apart, and so many of the Olds give me more
than the Buicks do.  And so many of the GP's bring me that much further from
them..... (Wow!  Is that confusing, or what!?!?!?)

I'd take either, or both, anyday...  Probably why I have 6 G-body Cutlass, 
~and~
an 83 GN wanna-be.  Can't find a happy medium, so gotta have both! :)   The GN
is dead, but still looks awwesome sitting there! :)

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 02:25:41 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?

> yeah, and it runs 3.8 second quarters.  No, it's all lies.

WHAT!!!?????!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?   Oh, dammit!  And I ~just~ orderred all that
stuff for the 260...  Does this mean it ~won't~ do a three-wheel standup on the
line?  Guess I'll have to build one of them 4-Tech things, instead!  ;)  
That'll
get me in the six's  :)



Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 02:27:07 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: can't get into Rocket Talk

>          Anybody else having probs with RT?Goota have my Olds
> fix....

Well, ~I~ got in OK....  Except it's 2:30 AM, and no one else is there......
Sucks working...  Oh well.  Y'all have fun without me?  I  hope.


Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 02:34:03 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Parts interchange from an 84 t-type

> hee hee.... "black" only...   Where is Sidney, Montana in relation to
> Shephard, Montana?  My mother's side is from that area.

Hmm...  Small world...  (big state!) :)  Not sure where Shephard is.  Can't 
find
it on the map, and haven't ever been there....  Big state, though.  Sidney is
about 150 miles from Canada, and about 5 miles from North Dakota.  ~Officially~
the middle of ~nowhere~!!!  I live in a (really) small town 11 miles north...
(Fairview - no 455, or 442 in the zip code, but I'm still looking for a new
town!)  Turns out another list member has parents in the area.....  1 block 
away
from me.  Small world, way too cool!  I'll be keeping my eyes open for Shepard,
though.  I'm guessing it's over in the mountains, near Kalispel???  Just a
hunch.  Anyway, was it the 82 that was silver, then?  Or was the 83 Turbo 
Regals
silver, when the ~didn't~ make the GN?  Been awhile, but I know there was 
silver
there ~somewhere~ :)


>
- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 02:39:45 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Survey needs swaying!!!!!

http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan/

Cool site...  Has a survey quizlet thingy...
Olds is currently kicking a*$, but could do ~much~ better...   Ya'all know what
to do, ~right~???  ;)

http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan/Table.html

Has a couple familiar sites on it.  Yours could probably added, if you'd want,
and offer it to him...

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 07:19:43 -0400
From: "Gary J Couse" <gjcouse@mhonline.net>
Subject: RE: 70 Master cylinders

Isn't it possible that GM Olds ran short on MC supplies and substituted MC's
from another lines supply, mid stream. Than, when the MC supplier
replenished the original MC for that year GM Olds went back to the original
specified unit. Hence the conflicting MC and lack of specific assembly info
on the MC? GM Olds was probably relying on the parts house to ask: "Which MC
do you have sir, Single or dual?"

- ----Regards,


Gary J. Couse

Couse Customs

gjcouse@mhonline.net <mailto:gjcouse@mhonline.net>

gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>

cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com <mailto:cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com>

 

"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS









<>-----Original Message-----
<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Greg Rollin
<>Sent: Friday, September 18, 1998 12:59 AM
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<>Subject: Re: 70 Master cylinders
<>
<>
<>
<>
<>Brian Lorway wrote:
<>
<>> Single bail, equal size reservoirs, smallish in size. Thats
<>whats on my '70.
<>> I spent alot of time on the "bridge" at the centennial looking
<>at all the
<>> 1970 4-4-2 W30's... It appeared to me that most of them had this style
<>> master cylinder.
<>
<>AAARRRGGGHHH!!!
<>Well, at this point in the quest for what is the correct disc brake master
<>cylinder for a 1970 manual brake car, I've come to this conclusion.
<>Although I have NO printed material to support this, I'm beginning
<>to seriously wonder if there were two styles used (?).  Mike Rothe's
<>photo #3  http://www.xtalwind.net/~hurstolds/rocket5.html
<>shows a disc style cylinder used.  Which supports my
<>findings.  However there is enough evidence from List members
<>to support that the small drum brake cylinder was used.
<>Most of the responses have been W-30's, which was also
<>my source for confirming my research (4 1970 W-30 4 speed cars).
<>Since all W-30's were Lansing produced, we can rule out
<>different plants using different cylinders.
<>So based on my speculation here of two styles,  I suppose
<>the next step is vehicle build dates..........
<>
<>Greg Rollin
<>Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
<>Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249
<>http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
<>E-mail: supercars@transport.com
<>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 07:41:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: '79 H/O W-30 For sale (Clarksville, TN)

Ad in paper says car has T-tops, is black & gold, with new tires, carb.,
bat., alt., & exh.. Asking $4450 or trade for truck. (931) 920-4768.

I just happened to see a car like this with a for sale sign at a stoplight
this week. Certainly that car appeared to have the correct (in good
condition as far as I could tell) paint and had 2 correct H/O wheels (only
saw one side of the car).

Might be a good opportunity for someone looking for one of these.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 08:04:09 -0400
From: Andy Mayer <mayer@ttc.kodak.com>
Subject: 1971 parts

1971 Oldsmobile 442 W-30

1971 W-30 intake manifold,carb, and red fender wells. Carb is for 4-speed and 
is
brand new with
 proper part number. Very good condition. Will seperate. Must sell, but only
reasonable offers please. Call E.S.T.

 $1200

Andy Mayer
 179 Westfield St.
 Rochest, NY 14619
 USA
 716-464-8932
 EMAIL=mayer@ttc.kodak.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 08:13:47 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: still overheating

On Thu, 17 Sep 1998 18:23:52 -0500 "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
writes:
>Ray,
>not really, the thermostat, even open will still restrict the coolant
>flow,
>allowing for more heat exchange, from engine and from the radiator.
>Can you
>look at the core tubes, usually their partially blocked if there is a
>problem with the radiator, should be able the see them thru the cap
>opening. Could be ca ca in the radiator, is the water pump impeller
>spinning ok?, I have seen them break loose from the drive rod, outside
>everything looks good but inside impeller is free wheeling. Gee, hard
>call
>without being there, wish we had a straight answer for you. Turning on
>the
>heater should help but it is minimal at best. darn, spinning our
>wheels
>here, anybody??
>Lou Biggs
>
Well thanks Lou.  I've decided to just buy another Cutlass and pull the
radiator out of it.  And I guess I might as well pull some oter stuff
from it too while I'm at it....... ha

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 08:53:30 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Carb Problems

WI02 Rutschmann Brandon M. AO2 wrote:

> I have recently rebuilt my Rochester 4bbl carb.  I needed to do so
> because it was leaking internally and externally and caught my engine
> on fire, it was almost the loss of a great Oldsmobile.  My question
> is:  After rebuilding the car will not idle smoothly.  I just did a
> basic gasket/float replacement.  I tried to adjust the idle screws and
> I just can't get it to idle correctly.  It sounds like it is too rich
> and it smells of unburned fuel at the exhaust.  While rebuilding I
> Cleaned the varnish off the primary needles with a scotch brite(r)
> pad.  I believe this changed the jet setting to dump too much fuel in
> my carb.  Before pulling off the carb I need some support.  It runs
> flawlessly at all other Rpm's.  Thank you for your help.  Brandon

    Brandon:

    First, if the carb has been in a fire, I'd suspect some amout of
casting warpage. Second, if you replaced the float, did you check the
float level?  If the float is smaller
than the original it will have to be set a bit lower to maintain a proper
fuel level.  I don't really think cleaning the rods the way you did is the
problem.  Although using an abrasive is not the best way to clean the
rods, the idle system has it's own metering restrictions that are smaller
than the main jet/rod restriction.  So, main jet size does not affect idle
mixture.  You say you just did a gasket/float replacement.  I'd do a
complete cleaning by soaking in carb cleaner, blowing out
passageways...the works.  It sounds to me like you may have some blockage
in the idle air bleeds or something.  Finally, as for the leakage, earlier
Q-jets sometimes had a problem with the secondary well plugs leaking.
They are two very large protrusions on the bottom of the main body.
You'll need to remove the throttle body to see them.  If you have any
doubts about their condition, seal them with a gas-proof epoxy.  That may
be the problem...no promises, though.

P.S.  get Doug Roe's book "Rochester Carburetors" published by HP books.
It'll help immensly.

Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1492
*********************************
