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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1433


oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, August 18 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1433



Re: G-Body VIN# was  84 442 for sale
re: big carb little carb (was the engine rebuild questions)
UNBOUNCE: CLASSIC OLDSMOBILE (fwd)
UNBOUNCE: ISO Bumper Fillers '81 Delta
Re:  Re: Attention all 81-88 "G" body members.
Re: Polishing body trim ('68 Cutlass)
Re:  Re: G-Body VIN# was  84 442 for sale
RE: Polishing body trim ('68 Cutlass)
Re: engine build questions!!!
re: engine build questions!!! LONG
Induction theory (was: engine build questions!!! )
SV: engine build questions!!! LONG
re: engine build questions!!! LONG
Re: Trans fluid leak from tail shaft
Engine Question [Long]
'69 CS Convertible F/S
hopping up my '68 350
RE: Solid motor mounts-72 Cutlass
olds magazine ?
1975 350 new or rebuilt motor
Olds in NASCAR, 1949 - 1997 (long)
RE: Induction theory (was: engine build questions!!! )
Re: G-Body VIN# was  84 442 for sale
RE: Solid motor mounts-72 Cutlass
Re: G-Body VIN# was  84 442 for sale
'58 Fiesta Matchbook cover
'84 442
UNBOUNCE: re: big carb little carb
Re: G-Body VIN# was  84 442 for sale
Balancing (was: 350 questions)
What's the word on Norwalk?
Re: G-Body VIN# was  84 442 for sale
1965 Jetstar 88 Conv FS
Re: G-Body VIN# was  84 442 for sale
Re: Toro- Graveyard??? Now THAT is scary.
Re: What's the word on Norwalk?
Re: Attention all 81-88 "G" body members.
Re: 1964  Cutlass Bumpers
Don't blame me, I voted Republican
Re: What's the word on Norwalk?
Topless update
Re: Registry/ reply
Re: G-Body VIN# was  84 442 for sale
Re: Don't blame me, I voted Republican
Re: Topless update
Re: Don't blame me, I voted Republican
Re: PC Change to Alternator stuff, was-Don't blame me, I voted Republican
1969 Hurst Olds Promo
Re: Balancing (was: 350 questions)
I need 442 200-4r specs
Re: Trans fluid leak from tail shaft

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 16:19:13 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: G-Body VIN# was  84 442 for sale

> That's my understanding too. My '87 442 has the GR11 code
>
> But, I'm pretty sure that Mike's ( krzy4evr@usit.net ) '86 is a GK47, not
> GK11.

True enough Mark.  The Salon was the 442's base model Cutlass UNTIL 87,
then the GR11 (Supreme) platform was used.  Sure did MISS my reclining
buckets in the 87 though.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 15:24:54 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: re: big carb little carb (was the engine rebuild questions)

The 750 cfm vs the 600 is an old issue, at least in theory!  (The latest
CC or Hot Chevy Rodding/Rod has a good comparo from 650/750/850.  750
won out for nearly everything.

The 600 CFM has a much higher flow velocity, which is good for response,
and hopefully mileage, but at WOT this can cause the fuel/air mix to
come in a fast enough rate to slam on the intake floor and separate.
Fuel that is in solid form (not atomized with air) will not burn in the
chamber.  Even if you got lucky enough to ignite it, it would be burning
too slow to make anything other than bad emissions!   A tall carb spacer
will help a large carb act smaller by increasing the velocity as flows
into the manifold.  Remember, peak torque occurs at Max volumetric
efficiency, so remember that when you play....

Back to the story.  The 750 cfm carb slows the velocity somewhat
compared to the 600, providing better atomization through the intake
runners, providing better power and mileage at higher flow rates.

Of course, this theory is based on WOT conditions.  The part throttle
may show different results.  (Q-Jet, flows 750-800 cfm but only 250-300
on primaries!)  If you have a mismatched intake or cam, the larger carb
is much better at masking it and still make a combination that will
work, the small carb is much more picky about tuning.

This does not mean if you have a .600 lift cam with 250 degrees duration
at .050, with 102 lobe centers  on that 307 that you should go get a
1000 CFM Dominator to mask it, nor does it mean that at 5000 rpm a 455
should have a 600 cfm carb, I have a 750 CFM AFB on my 70 400 and it is
fantastic, I get 18 mph highway with 3.08 gears and 4000 curb weight.  I
would like to try the 600, so if anyone has one to donate......

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC, 750 CFM E4MC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac 750 CFM Edelbrock Performer #1407
w/electric choke

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 17:30:11 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: CLASSIC OLDSMOBILE (fwd)

  This message is in MIME format.  The first part should be readable text,
  while the remaining parts are likely unreadable without MIME-aware tools.
  Send mail to mime@docserver.cac.washington.edu for more info.

- --1920162272-327244141-903385811=:22792
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=iso-8859-1
Content-ID: <Pine.SUN.3.91.980817172856.22792D@chebucto.ns.ca>

Not on the list; respond to dan427@total.net if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 13:08:46 -0400
From: Dan <dan427@total.net>
Subject: CLASSIC OLDSMOBILE

GOT A BUDDY LOOKING FOR A DRIVER SIDE FLASHER
FOR A 1941MODEL 66 OLDSMOBILE 2-DOOR SEDAN

COULD YOU TELL ME WERE TO START LOOKING.

THANKS...


- --1920162272-327244141-903385811=:22792--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 17:32:14 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: ISO Bumper Fillers '81 Delta

Not on the list; respond to robitaille@microd.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"BILL ROBITAILLE" <robitaille@microd.com>
Subject: 1981 Olds Delta 88

Hi There

I am looking to buy the front and rear rubber bumper filler for my 1981 =
Olds Delta 88.  The vehicle has 36,000 original miles and I need to =
replace the two bumper fillers.  Where can I find them?

Thanks

Bill Robitaille

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 16:36:06 EDT
From: <JJP442@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  Re: Attention all 81-88 "G" body members.

This trunk of yours has peaked my interest. What's it worth to ya?I'm from
Queens, got parents in Suffolk am there quite often.
Please E-mail $ Direct
JJP442@aol.com
Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 17:37:52 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Polishing body trim ('68 Cutlass)

I've had a little success with this. I bought a bench grinder last winter
and some cotton buffing wheels. I also found a selection of buffing
compunds at the local hardware store. I have several kinds, but one
package had a couple of sticks, green stuff for hard metal like chrome,
red stuff for softer metals like aluminum, and I use those the most.

It isn't hard to buff something that's in reasonably good shape.  I
haven't yet tried to actually repair something that has been dented --
that is obviously more complex. But with stainless you just buff using the
compound (start on some scrap if possible to practice) then polish it out
by hand. I did my stainless band at the base of the windshield and it came
out great. Watch you you don't injure yourself though, and use a dust
mask, safety glasses and gloves.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 16:41:53 EDT
From: <JJP442@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  Re: G-Body VIN# was  84 442 for sale

Didn't like the non-reclining buckets either, so I converted mine!
JJP442@aol.com
1983 HurstOlds
1987 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 13:47:11 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Polishing body trim ('68 Cutlass)

Polishing is not a big deal but it does require some stuff:
1) bench grinder (3/4 hp is ideal, but 1/2 will do), note the arbor size
(see below)
2) 4-6 buffing wheels, match arbor size to that which your bench grinder
has
3) Glue two similar pattern (sewn pattern) side by side,  voila! you've
doubled your polishing surface
4) Get buffing compound, there are different for stainless, chrome,
aluminum and plastic -- you'll need 'em all
5) face shield (good idea!) high speed, high torque tools can throw
parts right at you
6) heavy leather gloves -- parts get hot when you buff 'em.
7) Time -- this is a time consuming, but not hard process.

This stuff will run you $250-400, most of that is in the grinder.

After you've glued the buffing wheels together, put 'em on the grinder.
Then dress
them by rubbing part of the buff stick on them. When they've turned to
the color of
the buff, you're ready. You shouldn't need to use too much. I got big
bar of the stainless
stuff though. From here it's straight forward: let the buffer rub the
piece until it's shiny.
As shiny as you want it.

Practice with some waste pieces. To get the feel of the tools. I found
the results
simply remarkable. 30 year old pieces looked almost factory again. I
haven't figured
out how to remove really deep scratches, but the littte stuff is gone.
Stainless is pretty
hard to hurt, but look out for bending the moldings -- they're rare as
you know.

On long thin pieces, buff half, the work from the other end. Always buff
on the underside
of the wheel, so if the piece goes flying, it hits the wall -- not you.
Be careful not to get stuff
too hot or it will turn color and you'll have to wait for it to cool,
then start again.

Lastly, I do plastic pieces by hand, the buffer heats them to much and
they melt.

hope this helps.

cf

(snip)
>
> So, surely polishing the trim is something I can do myself.
> What tools do I
> need? What type of polishing compound is required? What
> should I NOT use?
> Some of the window trim is aluminum, does this mean I should
> use something
> else for aluminum?
>
> Advice, suggestions, 2 cents, please.
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 17:03:15 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: engine build questions!!!

> Sorry, I have to disagree.  A 350 cu in engine only uses 350/2/12^3 = 0.101
> cu ft of air per crankshaft rev.  You'd need to turn 750/0.101 = 7400 rpm
> to ever use a 750 carb on this motor, and that assumes 100% volumetric
> efficiency (85-90% is more likely in this application).

Here's a neat one.  I used a 600 vac secondary on my 1995 NON-roller
cammed 502 chevy engine in the truck while I worked on the 750 vac
secondary.  VERY RESPONSIVE off the bottom end!  Makes a difference with
the smaller bores at lower rpms, hence, showing that even the biggest
cubic inch engines can run better on the street with a smaller cfm rated
carb.  HOWEVER, there's a trade off with this.  Top end was off
considerably with the smaller carb on the big engine (instant
restrictor).  Sometimes, you can just go TOO small.

This is where I say the Q-jet when properly calibrated, or even Holley's
spread-bore, gives you the best of both worlds very economically. (as
long as it isn't those high $$ electronic doobies).  Of course, once
repairs were made to the 750, top end power was restored.

Very simply, the problem with using a "big" carb on a smaller motor
somewhat equates to using gas with more octane than your engine
requires. Sure, it'll run, but you don't NEED it, and you're gonna waste
money.  The major concern with the intake system is velocity.  If you
can keep the velocity up, the more responsive it is.  Smaller
ports/valves, carbs make this possible.  Again, this is simplified.
Intake runner size, port size, cam lift/duration and valve size have a
LOT to do with it.  You can go huge with everything, but lose on the
bottom end.  The best running engines have MATCHED components working
together to make the most power per stroke.  Bigger isn't necessarily
better for a street engine.  I've personally had strong running,
properly built Chevelle 327's make me look bad in my stock 69 W-30 400
years ago. (still though, they didn't kill me by a bunch)  About the
only time bigger is better IMO, is fuel line size.  No starvin marvins
for me!  Been there and done that!

Reflections...
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 16:18:16 -0500
From: Chad Schwartz <ChadS@pcsco.com>
Subject: re: engine build questions!!! LONG

>Sorry, I have to disagree.  A 350 cu in engine only uses 350/2/12^3 = 0.101
>cu ft of air per crankshaft rev.  You'd need to turn 750/0.101 = 7400 rpm
>to ever use a 750 carb on this motor, and that assumes 100% volumetric
>efficiency (85-90% is more likely in this application).  Around-town
>driveability will be hurt by such a large carb as well.  A 600 CFM carb is
>good for 600/0.101 = 5940 rpm, which, if you again assume 90% VE, actually
>works out to more like 6600 rpm.  You'll be a lot happier with the smaller
>carb on the street, as well.

>The exception here, of course, is the Q-jet, that flows something like 750
>cfm.  The spreadbore design provides much better part throttle driveability
>than a sqarebore carb of the same cfm rating.  You may want to consider
>that option.

I've read an article not to long ago in Hot Rodding if I remember right.
They were comparing the 600cfm - 850cfm with a typically built street
performance 350 engine.  They got the most horse power and torque out of the
750.  They pretty much said the formula isn't quite always true but is a
good rule of thumb.  GM recommends the 750 Holley carb on their 350 ZZ
create engines.  My ZZ4 just absolutely rips with the 3310 750 Holley. A
magazine back in '90 dyno tested a ZZZ create engine with a 750 cfm carb and
then changed to the Edelbrock quad setup using 2 600 cfm carbs.  The
horsepower and torque increased.  That's 1200cfm!!  It was only rev'ed to
6,000 rpm.  It mainly depends on the setup.  Big roller cams really like the
bigger carbs.

I had a 350 Olds built to the Edelbrock RPM specs in my H/O for 3 years.  I
ran a 3310 750 vaccum secondary spread bore Holley and it was very
responsive and had tons of bottom end, mid range, and upper.  The 600 cfm
will give you better gas mileage.  The engine package is totally streetable.
Edelbrock recommends a 750 cfm carb with their Olds RPM package.

Chad Schwartz
chads@pcsco.com <mailto:chads@pcsco.com>
mIRC: ROCKN6
Denison, IA
'87 GN  T-Tops (TE-44, 40lb Inj, Modified Stock IC, ATR Cam, JC Chip,
                          ATR 2 ½" SS Exhaust, TH 3" DP, 3" Test Pipe, ATR
Ram Air)
'79 H/O T-Tops (400 HP/430 TQ ZZ4 350 H.O. Chevy, TH350, 3.73 Posi)

"Poverty Is Owning A Race Car"  "Happiness Is A Low E.T."



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 17:21:17 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Induction theory (was: engine build questions!!! )

...The major concern with the intake system is velocity.  If you
can keep the velocity up, the more responsive it is.  Smaller
ports/valves, carbs make this possible.  Again, this is simplified.
Intake runner size, port size, cam lift/duration and valve size have a
LOT to do with it.  You can go huge with everything, but lose on the
bottom end...
_____________

Absolutely correct.  Ultimately, the way to build power is to move more air
and fuel (by weight) in and out of the engine.  Since the inlet side is
driven by vacuum, huge ports and runners will kill part throttle power due
to the inability to get that large volume of air moving.  Of course, small
runners provide too much of a restriction at high rpm.  This is the reason
that some newer cars have variable geometry induction systems.  A set of
small diameter, long runners is used for part throttle driving, with a set
of short large diameter runners for W.O.T.

Anybody remember the old Offy Dual Port manifolds?  These had two sets of
runners, small ones connected to the carb's primary bores and large ones
under the secondaries.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 23:26:15 +0200
From: "TRONDJARLE PEDERSEN" <trondped@c2i.net>
Subject: SV: engine build questions!!! LONG

>Sorry, I have to disagree.  A 350 cu in engine only uses 350/2/12^3 = 0.101
>cu ft of air per crankshaft rev.  You'd need to turn 750/0.101 = 7400 rpm
>to ever use a 750 carb on this motor, and that assumes 100% volumetric

>
>The exception here, of course, is the Q-jet, that flows something like 750
>cfm.  The spreadbore design provides much better part throttle driveability
>than a sqarebore carb of the same cfm rating.  You may want to consider
>that option.

I stand corected Joe, just my oppinion and it looks like I`m wrong. by the way
it might have been that i havent dialed the tbi in before i ruined it. Worked
great on the 350 tough.


Trond.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 17:26:55 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: re: engine build questions!!! LONG

I've read an article not to long ago in Hot Rodding if I remember right.
_____________

Wasn't it Camaro Craft?

=============

They were comparing the 600cfm - 850cfm with a typically built street
performance 350 engine.  They got the most horse power and torque out of
the
750.  They pretty much said the formula isn't quite always true but is a
good rule of thumb...

Chad Schwartz
_______________

The real question, of course, is what is your carb _really_ flowing?  A
carb labled 750 cfm isn't necessarily flowing that much, especially on a
350 at 6000 rpm.  As Mike Rothe and others have pointed out, the carb by
itself is only a part of a system, and that system must be matched for
optimum performance.  In addition, is your objective to build max W.O.T.
horsepower at the expense of part-throttle driveability?  If so, you
definitely want the bigger carb.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 98 17:34:37 EDT
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: Trans fluid leak from tail shaft

At 08:26 AM 8/17/98 -0700, you wrote:
>I realize most of you guys ignore the posts that I make however I will make
>this one again there is a small hole in the th400 yoke that could be the
>reason for your leak it is in the center of the thing right under the
>u-joint look for it...kk


   I do remember readimg your original post but the problem here is that I'm
using my original drive shaft that was on the other TH400 without any 
problems.


   Glenn
   '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 16:50:16 -0500
From: "Reed, Steve" <sreed@cp.varco.com>
Subject: Engine Question [Long]

>As already mentioned I have two cranks. Crank No. 2 which came with the

>car is polished like new. For cost efficiency I would like to use it.
Here

One follow up to the previous posts on this question.  I too would use
the second crank, but make sure you have the journals measured!  The
crank may have be ground and have undersize rods or mains.  It would
make a lot of noise if you put std. bearings on a .010 under crank.

- -Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 14:52:25 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: '69 CS Convertible F/S

OK guys, this is the scoop:

My wife is staying home today working on her final for the class she's
taking at Johns Hopkins (Master's program, shameless boast about wife)
when the phone rings...

There's an older man on the phone. Says that he has a car that he
doesn't want to sell, but must. Someone gave him my phone number and
told him to call. I called back and he talked to me for 45min about his
car:

1969 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
Aztec Gold
Black Interior
Black Top

350 2bbl, Turbo 350
Buckets, Console
Power Steering
Power Brakes (don't know if it's disc or drum)
Cold A/C

This car was one that was used by the dealership as a company car, and
then sold to the public. The current owner is the original owner. The
car was bought new here in Virginia and has been serviced at Stohlman
Oldsmobile for it's entire life.

The owner has put a fortune into the vehicle in the last three years to
include a body restoration (new quarters) and professional repaint in
the original Aztec Gold. The brakes have approx 2,000 miles on them (new
drums, cylinders, etc), the car has a new carb, the original engine has
been gone through, and so on. Car has 154,000 overall.

I must stress that I do NOT know this gentleman! I am just relaying what
I remember from our phone conversation. He is 79 years old and is
selling the car because his wife is not well. He does not want to see it
go. I have not seen the car, and am not interested in it. I would be
willing to go look at it if someone if REALLY interested, but please
don't waste my time.

The owner's name is Mr. Werner. He said that he has been told that he
should ask $10,000 for the car. I told him that I would tell some people
about it and that I would tell them that the price was $10,000 obo. This
sounds like a really nice car for someone who likes drop tops(I don't).
He made a point to tell me that the gas gauge reads a little high. That
was the only problem he could bring to mind!

His phone number is 703-892-6589.

If you call you, tell him that Brent Pinkstaff gave you the information
(he will probably remember talking to me).

Anyone who might want me to look at the car for them please e-mail me
PRIVATELY at fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com

Sorry about the bandwith, but I thought this was a good find.

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 17:57:29 EDT
From: <SHELTERMEN@aol.com>
Subject: hopping up my '68 350

I may be doing this a little backwards but why should be any different than
everything else in my life.  I'm hopping up the 350 in my '68 Delmont.  I have
a mild cam, lifters, roller rockers and springs.  I'm not interested in
spending a fortune, just adding a little fuel to the rocket.  I'm looking for
advice on what to do next.  The engine still has the original 2 bbl intake and
carb.  What 4bbl intake and carb are my best bet and are they a direct bolt on
as I previously thought.
   P.S.  This mailing list is an incredible source of info.  I'm glad to see
so many proud olds owners.  I also race a 76 cutlass at Wall Stadium in NJ.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 17:05:14 -0500
From: Chad Schwartz <ChadS@pcsco.com>
Subject: RE: Solid motor mounts-72 Cutlass

>I need new motor mounts on the 72 since the right one totally collapsed.
Anyways I was thinking >of going to solid
>mounts.  Anyone use them? Any benefits? How are they different from regular
mounts? The 72 >isn't driven much...only at
>the track and to local shows so comfort isn't an issue.  Will solid mounts
better my 1/4 times?

Jason,

The solid mounts don't have any rubber cushion in them.  You will feel more
of the engine vibrations through the car.  I've heard that if you run solid
motor mounts that you shouldn't run a solid transmission mount and visa
versa.  Too solid and would brake something.  The only reduction you will
probably see is in your reaction time.  The motor won't be able to shift
when you floor it before it starts moving the car.  Another option that I
have on my GN is stock engine mounts with a torque strap on the drivers side
from the engine to the frame.  This keeps me from twisting off the motor
mounts when I power brake with boost and helps from getting false knock
detection from exhaust hitting the frame.  Also helps with reaction time.

Chad Schwartz
chads@pcsco.com <mailto:chads@pcsco.com>
mIRC: ROCKN6
Denison, IA
'87 GN  T-Tops (TE-44, 40lb Inj, Modified Stock IC, ATR Cam, JC Chip,
                          ATR 2 ½" SS Exhaust, TH 3" DP, 3" Test Pipe, ATR
Ram Air)
'79 H/O T-Tops (400 HP/430 TQ ZZ4 350 H.O. Chevy, TH350, 3.73 Posi)

"Poverty Is Owning A Race Car"  "Happiness Is A Low E.T."

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 18:07:54 EDT
From: <JBSERVS@aol.com>
Subject: olds magazine ?

are there any old magazines out there that i could to subscribe to.  i can't
seem to find any around here.  any help you could give would be great

thanks,
seb

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 18:10:37 EDT
From: <JBSERVS@aol.com>
Subject: 1975 350 new or rebuilt motor

i'm looking for a place that could rebuild my 350 or get a new one.  even just
where i
can get more a parts selection.  i live in california so it has to be egr (at
least for another year)

thanks,
seb

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 18:36:41 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Olds in NASCAR, 1949 - 1997 (long)

Ladies and Gents,

Just dug out my official NASCAR yearbook and Press Guide for 1998, and have
some light to shed on the years Oldsmobiles raced in NASCAR Grand National
(now Winston Cup) competition.  These are the wins credited to Oldsmobiles, so
there might be other years as well.
The first number is wins, second number is total races. "*" denotes Olds had
the most wins, not necessairly winning Manufacturer's Championship
1949 -- 5/8 *
1950 -- 10/19 *
1951-- 20/41 *
1952 -- 3/34
1953 -- 9/38
1954 -- 11/36
1955 -- 10/45
1956 -- 1/56
1957 -- 5/52
1958 -- 7/49
1959 -- 4/42

1978 -- 11/30 *
1979 -- 5/31
1980 -- 3/31

1986 -- 1/29

1988 -- 2/29
1989 -- 1/29
1990 -- 1/29
1991 -- 5/29
1992 -- 2/29

Total number of wins: 116
There are some interesting notes to go with these stats.  Olds won the first
Daytona 500 (Lee Petty, Richard's dad) as well as the 79 (Richard Petty) and
80 (Buddy Baker)
In both 1949 (Red Byron) and 1953 (Bill Blair), Olds won on the 4.1-mile
beach/road course that preceded Daytona International Speedway.
The 1991 wins are all credited to one driver, Harry Gant, who won 4 of these
in a row!

Now I know for a fact that there were Oldsmobiles in NASCAR in the early 70's,
they just didn't win.  Somewhere around here I have a copy of an old Motor
Trend magazine that listed the finishing order of the NASCAR race at Riverside
California and had an Olds driver listed.  I'd like to know more about these
as well as Oldsmobile racers in the Automobile Racing Club of America (ARCA)
series.

And this just in...............Ken Snyder Racing has confirmed that the team
will be actively competeing in the NASCAR Winston Short-Track Racing Series at
Lakeside Speedway in 1999.  "Our goal is simple -- we will be aiming for
consistent top-10 finishes and racing each race in the season.  With a
strategy such as this, as well as improving at each and every event, we are
sure there will be a spot for us in the points championship and a win or two
to our credit" said driver/owner Ken Snyder.  More details as they become
available.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 15:53:52 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Induction theory (was: engine build questions!!! )

I still have one of these if anyone would like to buy it and pay for
shipping. Never abused, run on my stock 98 motor for years, but
doesn't fit HEI. Will go to the first $75 that is promised me. No
cracks or anything, just needs a good scrubbing.

offers?

cf

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Padavano.Joe@orbital.com [mailto:Padavano.Joe@orbital.com]
> Sent: Monday, August 17, 1998 2:21 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Induction theory (was: engine build questions!!! )

> Anybody remember the old Offy Dual Port manifolds?  These had
> two sets of runners, small ones connected to the carb's primary bores
and
> large ones under the secondaries.
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 19:06:07 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Re: G-Body VIN# was  84 442 for sale

Mark and whoever else is concerned...
     My 1986 442 DOES have the GK47 option.  Just for the record,
the following is my VID # on my title...1G3GK4798GP363572...

An '86 442 option on the Salon series..!!! Mark......you are good..!!

later folks.
Mike
Ironto VA
'86 442
'86 Supreme
'71 Monte
________________________________________________________________
> >87 2-dr Cutlass Supreme with 442 option (engine code "9").  Should have
> >the composite headlights.  If it were a GK11, that is the Salon, which,
> >to my knowledge, ironically was not available with the 442 option in
> >87.  It was a Supreme option only.  Someone correct me here if I'm
> >wrong.  I know MY 87 442 was a GR11.  Any current 87 owners want to
> >check theirs?  This poses a good question, since the 85 442 factory pic
> >says the 442 option was only on the Supreme, when in fact it was only
> >available on the Salon.
>
>
> That's my understanding too. My '87 442 has the GR11 code
>
> But, I'm pretty sure that Mike's ( krzy4evr@usit.net ) '86 is a GK47, not
> GK11.
>
> GK=Cutlass Salon
> 47=????
>
> GR=Cutlass Supreme
> 1=2 Door Notchback
> 1=Manual Seat Belts
>
> -Mark Tupper    1987 442    (OCA 30666)
>  mtupper@palacenet.net        http://www.cyberglyphs.com/442/
>
>
>
       "Still crazy.......after all these years......"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 16:08:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: JM <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Solid motor mounts-72 Cutlass

- ---Chad Schwartz <ChadS@pcsco.com> wrote:
>
> >I need new motor mounts on the 72 since the right one totally
collapsed.
> Anyways I was thinking >of going to solid
> >mounts.  Anyone use them? Any benefits? How are they different from
regular
> mounts? The 72 >isn't driven much...only at
> >the track and to local shows so comfort isn't an issue.  Will solid
mounts
> better my 1/4 times?
>
> Jason,
>
> The solid mounts don't have any rubber cushion in them.  You will
feel more
> of the engine vibrations through the car.  I've heard that if you
run solid
> motor mounts that you shouldn't run a solid transmission mount and
visa
> versa.  Too solid and would brake something.


- ---have you considered the best of both worlds?Polyurethane?
          John
==
mailto:super442@yahoo.com           ICQ # 16956740
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73--http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof--307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 19:23:06 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Re: G-Body VIN# was  84 442 for sale

>
> True enough Mark.  The Salon was the 442's base model Cutlass UNTIL 87,
> then the GR11 (Supreme) platform was used.  Sure did MISS my reclining
> buckets in the 87 though.
>
> Mike Roth


Mike.........Are you saying my '86 442 is supposed to have reclining
buckets??????????  Maybe I'm missing out on something here...!!!

Mike
Ironto VA
'86 442
'86 Supreme
'71 Monte





       "Still crazy.......after all these years......"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 19:39:42 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: '58 Fiesta Matchbook cover

Hey!  Where's that '58 Fiesta guy at?  There's a matchbook cover with a
'58 Super 88 Fiesta wagon on it for sale on Ebay.  Thought you might be
interested.  See it at:

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=25875344

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Aug 1998 21:49:11 -0400
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: '84 442

Message text written by Jim
>I was out driving in the country today and saw a 84 442 <

There are no '84 442s.  Only made '85-'87 in latest RWD body style.  An '84
would be a Hurst Olds.  If it is a 442, eggcrate grilles for '85, vertical
bar grilles for '86, aerodynamic front end with composite headlamps for
'87.  Send me the serial no. by e-mail for identification.  I have interest
(live in Cleveland) in this vehicle if authentic.

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma, Ohio
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E & 4L60-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'96 DCM Impala SS (Naisso #1365)  '87 Olds Cutlass 442 (OCA #028505)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 20:56:35 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: re: big carb little carb

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: re: big carb little carb (was the engine rebuild questions)

The 750 cfm vs the 600 is an old issue, at least in theory!  (The latest
CC or Hot Chevy Rodding/Rod has a good comparo from 650/750/850.  750
won out for nearly everything.

The 600 CFM has a much higher flow velocity, which is good for response,
and hopefully mileage, but at WOT this can cause the fuel/air mix to
come in a fast enough rate to slam on the intake floor and separate.
Fuel that is in solid form (not atomized with air) will not burn in the
chamber.  Even if you got lucky enough to ignite it, it would be burning
too slow to make anything other than bad emissions!   A tall carb spacer
will help a large carb act smaller by increasing the velocity as flows
into the manifold.  Remember, peak torque occurs at Max volumetric
efficiency, so remember that when you play....

Back to the story.  The 750 cfm carb slows the velocity somewhat
compared to the 600, providing better atomization through the intake
runners, providing better power and mileage at higher flow rates.

Of course, this theory is based on WOT conditions.  The part throttle
may show different results.  (Q-Jet, flows 750-800 cfm but only 250-300
on primaries!)  If you have a mismatched intake or cam, the larger carb
is much better at masking it and still make a combination that will
work, the small carb is much more picky about tuning.

This does not mean if you have a .600 lift cam with 250 degrees duration
at .050, with 102 lobe centers  on that 307 that you should go get a
1000 CFM Dominator to mask it, nor does it mean that at 5000 rpm a 455
should have a 600 cfm carb, I have a 750 CFM AFB on my 70 400 and it is
fantastic, I get 18 mph highway with 3.08 gears and 4000 curb weight.  I
would like to try the 600, so if anyone has one to donate......

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC, 750 CFM E4MC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac 750 CFM Edelbrock Performer #1407
w/electric choke

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 20:06:24 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: G-Body VIN# was  84 442 for sale

> Mike.........Are you saying my '86 442 is supposed to have reclining
> buckets??????????  Maybe I'm missing out on something here...!!!

Hmmm.  You PROBABLY should have them.  Can't say for sure.  Depends on
what "available" seat was in the Salon.  I only say this because my 85
442 came standard with recliners, a GK47 also, by the way.  My 87 GR11
442 came with the standard seats, but I think you could have got
recliners as an option, but I can't recall.  I didn't think about it at
the time, and well, non-recliners is what I got.  Hated that.  I got an
86 brochure around here somewhere......

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 20:36:55 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Balancing (was: 350 questions)

>If you replace anything in the reciprocating assembly (say, the pistons),
>you should plan on rebalancing the motor.  Yes, we've all built motors
>without balancing, but you'll be a lot happier if you do.
>


Can someone tell me just what is involved in total engine balancing?

And on a similar subject, how many different harmonic balancers are there
for Olds motors, and what makes one different from another? Always wondered
about this. X-spurts?

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 20:54:19 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: What's the word on Norwalk?

Been hoping to see some news about Dick Miller's Norwalk event on Sunday.

I know some of you folks went, so...?

jp

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 20:07:12 -0500
From: "Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
Subject: Re: G-Body VIN# was  84 442 for sale

>> Mike.........Are you saying my '86 442 is supposed to have reclining
>> buckets??????????  Maybe I'm missing out on something here...!!!
>
>Hmmm.  You PROBABLY should have them.  Can't say for sure.  Depends on
>what "available" seat was in the Salon.  I only say this because my 85
>442 came standard with recliners, a GK47 also, by the way.  My 87 GR11
>442 came with the standard seats, but I think you could have got
>recliners as an option, but I can't recall.  I didn't think about it at
>the time, and well, non-recliners is what I got.  Hated that.  I got an
>86 brochure around here somewhere......


This is gettin' interesting...From the package I got from the Olds History
Center, it lists the following options for the '87 Cutlass Supreme...

A51 - Contour Bucket Front (Coupe) - Included in W42 <-- This is the 442
It also lists:
AT6 - Reclining Seat Back, Passenger Side Manual

I always said if I met the guy who ordered my car WITHOUT reclining seats
(for the extra $70), I'd slap him. ;-) Maybe, it turns out he didn't have a
choice
as it sounds like you got the seats that came with the W42 package. Does
anyone have (factory) recliners in a 86-87 442? Drivers AND/OR Passenger
side?

And does anyone have any Gray cloth ones they want to sell? Seriously...It's
the one thing I *don't* like about my car,  and would like to change.

- -Mark Tupper    1987 442    (OCA 30666)
 mtupper@palacenet.net        http://www.cyberglyphs.com/442/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 21:15:08 EDT
From: <BigEJ@aol.com>
Subject: 1965 Jetstar 88 Conv FS

Hi All:

A fellow who does excellent paint and body work for us "old car" folk just had
an argument with his wife.  The argument centered on a really nice 1965
Jetstar 88 convertible that he was just finishing for himself.

The argument was resolved when he took the car to Owls Head and told them to
sell it at their annual auction this coming weekend.  No reserve.

Owls Head, a transportation museum, on the beautiful coast of Maine has a web
site at  http://www.ohtm.org/index.html.

A full size Olds, no matter how nice, will probably not draw a lot of interest
at this auction.  This would seem to be a real buying opportunity for anyone
interested in this type of car,  the car is really nice!

In place of the usual disclaimers, I do know the fellow that restored the car,
he did the paint work on my 67 442 also.  I have seen the car, although not
this year, while it was being restored and believe that it was done correctly.
Last I hope that this will help both the list members by notifying them about
a really nice car, and him by involving enough people so the car isn't sold
for a ridiculous price.

Thanks for listening

Elephant Engine Ernie
AKA Ernie Johnson

67 442
50  88

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 21:23:21 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Re: G-Body VIN# was  84 442 for sale

> This is gettin' interesting...From the package I got from the Olds History
> Center, it lists the following options for the '87 Cutlass Supreme...
>
> A51 - Contour Bucket Front (Coupe) - Included in W42 <-- This is the 442
> It also lists:
> AT6 - Reclining Seat Back, Passenger Side Manual
>
> I always said if I met the guy who ordered my car WITHOUT reclining seats
> (for the extra $70), I'd slap him. ;-) Maybe, it turns out he didn't have a
> choice
> as it sounds like you got the seats that came with the W42 package. Does
> anyone have (factory) recliners in a 86-87 442? Drivers AND/OR Passenger
> side?
>
> And does anyone have any Gray cloth ones they want to sell? Seriously...It's
> the one thing I *don't* like about my car,  and would like to change.
>
> -Mark Tupper    1987 442    (OCA 30666)
>  mtupper@palacenet.net        http://www.cyberglyphs.com/442/


Mark.......If someone e-mails you and offers you a set of reclining
or non reclining buckets in maroon cloth....forward that to me..!!! I
nne a few maroon interior parts for my '86 442..!!

This is getting interesting...I agree..!!

Mike

       "Still crazy.......after all these years......"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 21:24:47 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Toro- Graveyard??? Now THAT is scary.

In a message dated 98-08-17 17:32:50 EDT, you write:

<< Karl, I am not in this to make much $!! And YES you have to go thru me.
 Come on down for a day help me part a car and I will let you have what you
 want[in reason] It is not a yard we are dealing with and it is in Ft. Wayne
 In.about 3 hours from you. I have my own Landscape firm ,so if I know when
 you are coming it will not be a problem for me to amuse you for a day!!! Be
 in touch,Jack  >>

I think I have seen a message like this before.

Flames are rising.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 98 18:32:46 -0700
From: Mike Lias <mlias@thegrid.net>
Subject: Re: What's the word on Norwalk?

What "Norwalk" would this be? In california (southern)? Surounded by
Downey, Cerritos, etc. etc. etc.? If so, what kinda event is/was this?

>Been hoping to see some news about Dick Miller's Norwalk event on Sunday.
>
>I know some of you folks went, so...?
>
>jp
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 21:46:01 -0400
From: Stephen Palomba <spalomba@IDT.NET>
Subject: Re: Attention all 81-88 "G" body members.

JJP442@aol.com wrote:
>
> This trunk of yours has peaked my interest. What's it worth to ya?I'm from
> Queens, got parents in Suffolk am there quite often.
> Please E-mail $ Direct
> JJP442@aol.com
> Thanks
Hi,

	I just got home from work. The trunk lid is brand new. I got it about 5
years ago for a project car I was working on (Long gone). I never used
it and it has been sitting in my parents attic since.

	I live in Islip Terrace a mere 1.5 hrs from your house in favorable
traffic. However I work out of an office on 48th ave. in Long Island
City NY near the FDNY maintenance building.


Stephen Palomba (spalomba@idt.net)
65 cutlass
65 Vista Cruiser
72 cutlass convert

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 21:59:04 EDT
From: <Mr57olds@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 1964  Cutlass Bumpers

I have a set of bumpers (front and rear) for a 1964 cutlass,
with mounting brackets for sale.  The bumpers need to be rechromed

John,  how much and where at???   mail me direct if you wish.
Mr57olds@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 22:21:27 -0400
From: "John Gill" <jgill@idmi.com>
Subject: Don't blame me, I voted Republican



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 22:48:53 -0400
From: "John Gill" <jgill@idmi.com>
Subject: Re: What's the word on Norwalk?

I went over to the DMR event and I was pleased.  I felt that there were
more cars this year than last year (the Mondello event) and the quality was
strong.  One motor blew Sunday morning and one drive shaft went south but
as usual, a bunch of nice folks show'in and go'in.  The weather was A-1 all
day but Dick Miller had trouble with the front end of his car.  The
fiberglass was giving him fits but he still made casual 9 second passes.

John Gill
jgill@idmi.com

- ----------
> From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
> To: oldsnet <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: What's the word on Norwalk?
> Date: Monday, August 17, 1998 8:54 PM
>
> Been hoping to see some news about Dick Miller's Norwalk event on Sunday.
>
> I know some of you folks went, so...?
>
> jp
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 19:51:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: JM <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Topless update

- ----Hi gang,
         Just an update on my car....some may not care...but here goes
anyway. 307 roller motor #2, 1st one died:(, started on the garage
floor this weekend (tranny attached). Life was good, John was HAPPY!!
I went today to the paint store and got a nice paint for the motor...I
know you purist out there are gonna hate me for this ...but the new
color is gonna be  Bright Purple. Chrome V/C, 14" Air cleaner w/ 5"
K&N filter, along with some hard work at polishing will also yield the
oil fill tube, and some brackets will look great. If some of you are
wondering "Why purple?", well I have to match those magenta/"blurple"
pinstripes someway or another don't I?

        Sorry to ramble on so much,
                                  John

==
mailto:super442@yahoo.com           ICQ # 16956740
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73--http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof--307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 22:45:15 -0400
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Re: Registry/ reply

How about W-34s, W-33s, w-45s?

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com
Centennial Feature at http://www.en.com/users/wmachine/wm.html
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: DROLDS350@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Cc: DROLDS350@aol.com
> Subject: Re: Registry/ reply
> Date: Monday, August 17, 1998 9:46 AM
>
> Them too.
> Jim McKeague
> 70 Cutlass W31
> 70 Rallye 350
>
> So how about the few of us W-32's?? >>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 21:56:27 -0600
From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@interaccess.com>
Subject: Re: G-Body VIN# was  84 442 for sale

krzy4evr@usit.net wrote:
>
> >
> > True enough Mark.  The Salon was the 442's base model Cutlass UNTIL 87,
> > then the GR11 (Supreme) platform was used.  Sure did MISS my reclining
> > buckets in the 87 though.
> >
> > Mike Roth
>
> Mike.........Are you saying my '86 442 is supposed to have reclining
> buckets??????????  Maybe I'm missing out on something here...!!!
>
My '86 has the reclining buckets.  Only option code listed for seats is:

AC3 Seat Adj., 6-way pwr bu  240.00

In my copy of the salesperson's folder (xerox sent by the OHC..) under
standard equipment, Seats are listed as "Contour Reclining Front
Buckets"  And this si standard equipment for ALL K47 Salon Coupes.

- --
- ---Matt
Chicago, IL

- --------------------------------------------------------
mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
- --------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 21:05:48 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Don't blame me, I voted Republican

John Gill wrote:  nothing...

...which is probably best, since it was decided long ago to keep politics off
this list.  However, Ol' Bill still has my support...  Seems like he gets it a
~lot~ more than I do!  ;)  Seems like this whole ordeal would have been averted
if Monica had just kept her mouth shut.....  :)

Olds related:

Rebuilt the alternator in the 83 today...  Finally works again...  Had to
rebuild it like three times...  Went out Thursday, Charge light came on
constantly, but still charging.  Pulled it out at work Friday, tested
everything, found two burned up diodes in the rectifier assy.  Went next door 
to
NAPA (Never Any Parts Available) to get new rectifier...  Don't have one...  
Get
ya one by morning?  (AKA Next-Day Napa...) Nope, I'll rob a parts car
instead...  If I gotta put this burned up thing and wait a day, I ~sure~ as 
hell
ain't spending 30 bucks on it!  So, busy all weekend, good thing it still
charged the battery enough...  Today, with spare alternator in hand, and hopes
out on the table, I tear down the spare...  Test rectifier...  Good.  Pull
alternator out again, tear down, O-haul again, with "new" rectifier...  Put 
back
in...  Go next door with cracked up belt...  "Don't have it..."  "How 'bout 
next
size up?"  OK...  Got that, works OK...  Put new alternator belt on (what the
hell, got it out already, right?)  Fire it up...  Charge light on...  Damn!  
Get
DVOM...  12.08VDC.....  12.05VDC....   11.98VDC...  "$#@%#$!!!"  Pull it ~back~
out again (Yes, I ~did~ shut the car off, first! :)  Tear it down, ~again,~ to
discover one of the brushes didn't release when I pulled the pin...  Crap...
Hmm... go next door.  Nope, ain't got a brush holder, either.  So I cleaned up
the other one, and put it in (many many years left on the brushes, but figured
mightaswell...  if they had it...  So, put the spare brush holder back in 
there,
re-assembled all, pulled out pin (listenning close.... "click... click"
(Good!)  Put in ~again~, fire up, ~again~, and charge light goes out...
Voltmeter comes up... Grab DVOM....  14.08VDC....  14.25VDC....  14.38VDC....
14.37VDC...   Good!  Finally!

Still works, too :)

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 21:11:40 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Topless update

> Bright Purple. Chrome V/C, 14" Air cleaner w/ 5"
> K&N filter, along with some hard work at polishing will also yield the
> oil fill tube, and some brackets will look great.

Wow!  Sounds great!  Is that a ~high temp~ purple???

Has anyone seen those air filter ~lids~ out there?  I ~think~ they're from K&N,
don't remember where I'd seen it...  Its a flow-through lid, instead of a pie
can top.  Just a big flat filter, essentially, that sits on top of the round
filter, and is held down with the wing nut...  Worth a crap?  Anyone used 'em?
Looked kinda cool, at least.


- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 23:23:50 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: Don't blame me, I voted Republican

Oldsmagnet wrote:
>
> John Gill wrote:  nothing...
>
> ...which is probably best, since it was decided long ago to keep politics off
> this list.  However, Ol' Bill still has my support...  Seems like he gets it 
a
> ~lot~ more than I do!  ;)  Seems like this whole ordeal would have been
averted > if Monica had just kept her mouth shut.....  :) > How bout if YOUR
President kept his thing in his pants, and then saved the taxpayers millions by
telling the truth about it the first time...

>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 23:29:10 -0400
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Re: PC Change to Alternator stuff, was-Don't blame me, I voted
Republican

My 55A alternator has about a million (?) miles on it- still charges, but
makes a loud grrrrrr noise.  Hate to fix anything that ain't broke, but....

Got a spare 37A unit from a parts car.  Anyone ever tried to rebuild with
one of those up-rating kits, to give more output?  The new (OEM look)
transistor regulator is rated for big current.  Want stock look, and minimum
cost- advice?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 17, 1998 11:04 PM
Subject: Re: Don't blame me, I voted Republican


>John Gill wrote:  nothing...
>
>...which is probably best, since it was decided long ago to keep politics
off
>this list.  However, Ol' Bill still has my support...  Seems like he gets
it a
>~lot~ more than I do!  ;)  Seems like this whole ordeal would have been
averted
>if Monica had just kept her mouth shut.....  :)
>
>Olds related:
>
>Rebuilt the alternator in the 83 today...  Finally works again...  Had to
>rebuild it like three times...  Went out Thursday, Charge light came on
>constantly, but still charging.  Pulled it out at work Friday, tested
>everything, found two burned up diodes in the rectifier assy.  Went next
door to
>NAPA (Never Any Parts Available) to get new rectifier...  Don't have one...
Get
>ya one by morning?  (AKA Next-Day Napa...) Nope, I'll rob a parts car
>instead...  If I gotta put this burned up thing and wait a day, I ~sure~ as
hell
>ain't spending 30 bucks on it!  So, busy all weekend, good thing it still
>charged the battery enough...  Today, with spare alternator in hand, and
hopes
>out on the table, I tear down the spare...  Test rectifier...  Good.  Pull
>alternator out again, tear down, O-haul again, with "new" rectifier...  Put
back
>in...  Go next door with cracked up belt...  "Don't have it..."  "How 'bout
next
>size up?"  OK...  Got that, works OK...  Put new alternator belt on (what
the
>hell, got it out already, right?)  Fire it up...  Charge light on...  Damn!
Get
>DVOM...  12.08VDC.....  12.05VDC....   11.98VDC...  "$#@%#$!!!"  Pull it
~back~
>out again (Yes, I ~did~ shut the car off, first! :)  Tear it down, ~again,~
to
>discover one of the brushes didn't release when I pulled the pin...
Crap...
>Hmm... go next door.  Nope, ain't got a brush holder, either.  So I cleaned
up
>the other one, and put it in (many many years left on the brushes, but
figured
>mightaswell...  if they had it...  So, put the spare brush holder back in
there,
>re-assembled all, pulled out pin (listenning close.... "click... click"
>(Good!)  Put in ~again~, fire up, ~again~, and charge light goes out...
>Voltmeter comes up... Grab DVOM....  14.08VDC....  14.25VDC....
14.38VDC....
>14.37VDC...   Good!  Finally!
>
>Still works, too :)
>
>--
>Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
>mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
>http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
>   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
>    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
>     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
>  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 23:54:56 -0400
From: Jeffrey lane <bladernr@roava.net>
Subject: 1969 Hurst Olds Promo

This was auctioned on EBay.  I was the high bidder at a whopping 10.00.
But she didnt get her reserve of 35.  she said she is willing to sell it
to me for 30 (shipping included).  but the toronado Promo I wanted is
already gone (went for over 100 dollars...) so if any of you are
interested, let me know soon, and I may still be able to pick it up for
you.

Jeff
- --
><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> 67 Toronado  ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><>

Jeffrey Lane, EMT-ST	ICQ#12362327	http://www.roava.net/~bladernr
			bladernr@roava.net 	EMTBoy9@aol.com


Sr. Sergeant, Equipment Officer	|	EMT-ST/Driver
Fort Lewis Rescue Squad, Inc.		|	United Ambulance Service
Salem, Virginia				|	Roanoke, Virginia

"Knowledge is power.  But power corrupts, and corruption is a sin, so if
you seek knowledge, you will burn in hell. . ."

- -----------------------------Carpe Noctum------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 20:26:38 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Balancing (was: 350 questions)

not enough space here to give details but suffice to say a lot of weighing
and prep work goes into balancing an engine...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave Cullen <david.cullen@snet.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 17, 1998 5:43 PM
Subject: Balancing (was: 350 questions)


>
>>If you replace anything in the reciprocating assembly (say, the pistons),
>>you should plan on rebalancing the motor.  Yes, we've all built motors
>>without balancing, but you'll be a lot happier if you do.
>>
>
>
>Can someone tell me just what is involved in total engine balancing?
>
>And on a similar subject, how many different harmonic balancers are there
>for Olds motors, and what makes one different from another? Always wondered
>about this. X-spurts?
>
>drc
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 23:46:24 EDT
From: <DUKEOLDS@aol.com>
Subject: I need 442 200-4r specs

I would like to know how the trans in the 442 was different from a regular one
and what the stall on the converter was, also the gearing ratios.
Does anyone know if the speed governor on that trans is mechanical or
computerized? Hoe do I get my car to go faster than the 105mph point ?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 20:32:38 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Trans fluid leak from tail shaft

it is wierd but these do tend to be figgity and just start leaking without
having leaked before the yoke on my 442 did it the yoke an my chevy pickup
did it the yoke on my camaro did it the truck has a large hole that has a
bolt through it to hold the yoke the slip for it is in the middle of the
shaft the possibility of the yoke having a groove is there but it is remote
as it moves in and out as well as round and round the groove would be about
a half inch wide and in all my years turning wrenches I have never seen this
bad seal yes grooved shaft no what I have always found is a small hole about
a 1/16" in dia. that leaks almost unnoticed until one day there is a small
river of fluid running down the drive....kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 17, 1998 5:01 PM
Subject: Re: Trans fluid leak from tail shaft


>At 08:26 AM 8/17/98 -0700, you wrote:
>>I realize most of you guys ignore the posts that I make however I will
make
>>this one again there is a small hole in the th400 yoke that could be the
>>reason for your leak it is in the center of the thing right under the
>>u-joint look for it...kk
>
>
>   I do remember readimg your original post but the problem here is that
I'm
>using my original drive shaft that was on the other TH400 without any
problems.
>
>
>   Glenn
>   '69 4-4-2
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1433
*********************************
