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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1407


oldsmobile-digest      Wednesday, August 5 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1407



SX for sale
RE: POSI NEEDED
RE: How do I remove windshield from 74 98
Re: POSI NEEDED
Re: Turn signal problems.
How fast?
More Humor, was Cool Can
Re: information
Re: Turn signal problems.
News Item
RE: News Item
Re: Turn signal problems.
1986 toronado
Re: News Item
Re: Turn signal problems.
Re: Olds Smokey
RE: How fast?
Many things
FE3X
Re: Many things
Re: Lifespan of Tires
Things to do!
200R4 info
RE: Things to do!
Re: Things to do!
Re: MSD'S IGNITION MODULE?
Re: Olds Smokey
RE: Things to do!
RE: Things to do!
Sudden SOM Death Syndrome + RRAP (REAL long)
Re: How fast?
Re: Lifespan of Tires
Re: information
Re: Olds Smokey
Re: FE3X
Re: Things to do!
Re: Turn signal problems.
RE: 200R4 info
Camshaft Question
Re: Olds Smokey
Re: EGR blockoff
Re: How fast?
Re: POSI NEEDED
Re: EGR blockoff
Re: Camshaft Question
Re: How fast?
Re: 200R4 info
Re: POSI NEEDED
Re: Camshaft Question

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 09:34:37 EDT
From: <TomW30@aol.com>
Subject: SX for sale

   This ad appeared in my local (Connecticut) paper:

   '70 Olds Cutlass SX
    Original car with rebuilt 455, TH400 trans, 12 bolt rear, no rust or dents
     $2000 (or best offer) 203-238-0262

    I know nothing more than this about the car .....just passing on the
information. If this car is in decent shape, it sounds like someone could have
a good deal. Good luck!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 09:58:10 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: RE: POSI NEEDED

It is a 67 f85 and I dont know if it is a o or c---it came with the car and
I believe it is original.

David Seiver
_______________

Easy way to tell:  If the cover is smooth, it's a Type O.  A pronounced "V"
shaped ridge in the cover signifies a Type C.  If it's the original rear,
it's likely a Type O.

Note that Olds also used Type B or P rear ends in 67, though these should
only have ten bolt covers.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 09:55:00 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: RE: How do I remove windshield from 74 98

...before putting down the sealing tape he got out a can of
'primer'....I'm just wondering if this has to be done and if so
what this 'primer' is called, where to get it or if it's a step that can
be skipped and one would just thoroughly clean the frame and then put
the windshield sealing tape in.  Also, sometimes there are little rubber
blocks that go on the bottom of the windsheild frame to help 'position'
the windshield, or backglass if doing the rear window, properly in the
frame and probably also to prevent the glass from riding on the lower
metal channel of the frame.

Chris Smetana
_________________

Chris,

You're correct on both counts.  I was too lazy to type the whole thing, so
I left out these key points.  As for the primer (technical name:  "primer"
- - I suspect you can buy it at the same place you get the tape), I have to
say that in the half dozen or so windshields I've replaced, I have not used
the primer and I've never had a leakage problem.  I do ensure that the
frame is thoroughly cleaned to remove any residual grease or dirt.

The rubber blocks are also useful and ensure that the glass is properly
spaced above the frame.  I learned this the hard way on the first
windshield I replaced.  I neglected to use the blocks ("Blocks?  We don't
need no steenking blocks!") and the glass ended up too low in the frame.  I
found this out while trying to reinstall the trim, which naturally didn't
fit correctly.  Let me pass on that gentle "persuasion" is not a
recommended approach  ;-(
Needless to say it went a lot better the _second_ time.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 10:01:17 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: POSI NEEDED

give up I asked this a week and a half ago and got no response
once again thats a posi unit for a type "O" differential need it to accept
4
serries gears thanx
________________

The lack of response is likely due to the rarity of these parts.  Try
Gevo's Gears and Rears, in NY.  They're always in Hemmings, but I don't
have my copy here at the office.  I spoke to them at Spring Carlisle and
they indicated that they had some used Type O posi carriers.  Supercars
Unlimited carries gear sets and rebuild parts.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 07:29:20 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Turn signal problems.

> My left turn signal blinks slowly, but does blink when the
> headlights are off. The moment I cut my headlights on, the
> interior left turn signal indicator turns on, and doesn't
> blink, but my left turn signals on the outside don't do
> anything. No light at all from my turn signal or marker
> lights on that side. Does anyone have an idea as to what
> this problem is?

Actually I think you'll find that the problem occurs as soon
as you turn on the _parking_ lights, without turning on the
headlights as well. If the problem only occurs with headlights
on, you may have a bad ground that's allowing power to run
back through the circuits sharing that ground connection, such
as your parking lights and/or turn signals on that side.

I think you have a bad bulb or socket on the front left turn
signal. Turning on the parking light circuit is allowing current
to flow _back_ up the turn signal circuit on that side, which
causes your dash signal to glow as well. We know it's not a rear
light that's shorted, because that circuit cannot connect with
the dash signal unless the turn signal lever has been moved to
that side.

Try removing the front left bulb temporarily and see if the
glowing dash signal symptom goes away. I think it will. You
need to test for a bad ground on the front left turn signal
socket. Frequently it's broken inside the socket where the
black wire goes in. Try running a jumper wire temporarily
from the side of the bulb (carefully wedge the wire against
the side of the bulb) to a known good ground connection and
see if the problem goes away.

BTW, if a single-filament bulb such as a #1156 has been jammed
into the double-filament #1157 socket, you can get the same
symptoms...

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 09:23:07 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com>
Subject: How fast?

Well I finally did a few timed speed runs with the Rocket 350 and my
lazy 2.14 gears.

30-50   3.61 seconds
50-70   6.06 seconds
55-75   6.06 seconds
60-80   7.04 seconds

It was a light rain, and on the 30-50 times I got a slight amount of
slippage when small bumps were encountered.  The speedo really
accelerated at the 30 mph to 35 mark.  Like hitting powerband.  The
engine was getting up there in rpm at 55 mph, so I highly suspect the
THM200C has the 2.74 gearset.  Or even the 3.06 if that is possible.  No
one seems to know.  It is fairly lively with the 2.14's off the line, so
it makes me wonder.  And yes, I have counted the teeth....

According to Motor Trend the GN (Non intercooled) did 30-50 in 3.6 and
50-70 in 6.6 seconds.  I will scan the article, as it covers the 85
GN/SS and 442.  The 442 seemed to win the tire smoking contest, but that
is about it.  The GN next, and the SS hardly could spin them on the
track.  Little smoke.  The 442 was smoking enough you could not see the
back of the car.

My driveline is stone stock, THM200C and 2.14's, and the 77 350 is under
Computer Command Control and is stone stock.  The exhaust is the 87 GN
exhaust by Hooker, and the carb is a 84 from a Delta 88 set to stock 307
HO Specs.  Timing is stock, (20 degrees) and the car has a trunk load
full of tools.

Anyone have any numbers to compare to?  I would like to see how it
compares to a 80's 442/HO and other 307/350/403/425/455 G-Bodies.
Anyone run 2.14's?

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 10:38:29 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: More Humor, was Cool Can

In a message dated 98-08-05 00:31:24 EDT, you write:

<< Jets??? what are they?? Do you people still use jets :)
 >
 Yup still have jets :)
 and POINTS even. remember points?
 and drum brakes even.
  >>

Was astonished to find that some people have ignition ....

*on*the*steering*column*!!!!

Of all places!

Just cannot see the logic in that.....

  :-)}


KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 10:54:19 EDT
From: <JCRASH7@aol.com>
Subject: Re: information

Would the "Darth Vader Car" be the FE3X?  I'm not sure, I saw it this summer,
and now that sounds familiar.  I'll send a couple of pictures to anyone who
wants them.

Joe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 11:02:29 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Turn signal problems.

In a message dated 98-08-04 23:57:40 EDT, you write:

<<   My left turn signal blinks slowly, but does blink when the headlights are
off.  The moment I cut myheadlights on, the interior left turn signal
indicator turns on , and doesn't blink,  >>

OK

Signal works.
So the electrical circuit is fine when the headlights are off.

With headlights on, mixed bag.
Indicator on. Light off.

So somehow these systems are connected.
Or rather, you have shorted your turn signal with your headlight circuit.

Is it possible that you switched the grounds?

I am certain that Andy Green has already posted the correct answer, so....

Wait a sec, I think I gots it...

Your turn signal is essentially a relay, right?

A double pole double throw multivibrator that is energized/disengaged by
current, right?

So it just occurred to me that mayhaps the turn signal is not energized by
current, but by a related function which I will not pretend to understand at
this time.

[[Karl says it is a switch]]

What if, with the relay contacting one pole, the indicator lights up. On the
other pole, the signal lamp lights up.

See where I am headed?

Somehow, by switching grounds, or whatever happened, you have integrated the
headlamp circuit into the left (?) turn circuit.
When you turn on you headlamps, the current flows to the turn signal relay,
and energizes it!
It locks the relay into one position!

(Actually bad, you can burn the contacts of the relay, causing it to stick w/o
headlights on)

So it gets locked into the position with indicator on, and headlamp off!

And it is otherwise slower because the normal current is also feeding the
headlamp system and the relay-related function that switches the relay takes
longer to operate.

Maybe.

But wait for AG's (correct) response.

This has been another hallucination from:

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 11:12:53 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: News Item

*** GM to restructure North American operations

General Motors Corp. said Tuesday it would restructure its North
American operations in a bid to cut costs and streamline how it sells
cars and trucks. The world's largest automaker said it would replace
its current five marketing organizations with a single sales and
service operation divided into five regions in the U.S. GM said it
will keep the Buick, Cadillac, Chevrolet, GMC, Oldsmobile and Pontiac
brand names. The target date for completing the restructuring is Jan.
1999. GM expects the restructuring to save $200 million to $300
million and result in job losses. See
http://www.infobeat.com/stories/cgi/story.cgi?id=2555394229-53c

Apparently this is the bi-annual GM reorg.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 10:40:51 -0500
From: "Kijowski, Stan" <SKIJOWSKI@midland.com>
Subject: RE: News Item

This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BDC087.6CB6D4E2
Content-Type: text/plain

 <<BRAKE BOOSTER>>
joe, i tried to send this separately but it my system did not "recognize"
your address
> ----------
> From: 	Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM[SMTP:Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Wednesday, August 05, 1998 10:12 AM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	News Item
>
> *** GM to restructure North American operations
>
> General Motors Corp. said Tuesday it would restructure its North
> American operations in a bid to cut costs and streamline how it sells
> cars and trucks. The world's largest automaker said it would replace
> its current five marketing organizations with a single sales and
> service operation divided into five regions in the U.S. GM said it
> will keep the Buick, Cadillac, Chevrolet, GMC, Oldsmobile and Pontiac
> brand names. The target date for completing the restructuring is Jan.
> 1999. GM expects the restructuring to save $200 million to $300
> million and result in job losses. See
> http://www.infobeat.com/stories/cgi/story.cgi?id=2555394229-53c
>
> Apparently this is the bi-annual GM reorg.
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 70 W-30
>
>

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BDC087.6CB6D4E2
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Message-ID: <EB8FC9B04377D1118D060000F801C672651B2B@ADMNT2>
From: "Kijowski, Stan" <SKIJOWSKI@midland.com>
To: "'PADAVANO.JOE@ORBITAL .COM'" <PADAVANO.JOE@ORBITAL .COM>
Subject: BRAKE BOOSTER
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 10:34:05 -0500
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.0.1460.8)
Content-Type: text/plain

good morning joe,
i've got some questions for you.
i am converting my 72 cutlass supreme conv. to disc brakes.
i replaced the booster and master last night. my questions are:
how do you know how far to adjust the yoke on the booster to brake pedal?
do you push the brake pedal all the way forward and adjust the yoke to that
distance. or??

also...there is a switch under the dash, mounted on the steering column,
which obviously is activated by the brake pedal movement. what is it?  i
know it has to do with the brakes, but do not know its function and how it
should be adjusted.

one last thing.  would you happen to have a spare disc brake hose mounting
bracket for the driver's side.  i happen to have 2 extra passenger side
brackets but am missing the right side bracket. (didn't know there was a
difference in them till the other night)

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BDC087.6CB6D4E2--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 09:13:59 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Turn signal problems.

>Signal works.
>So the electrical circuit is fine when the headlights are off.

Um... We haven't established that for sure. I think it's the
parking light circuit that's involved here, not the headlights.

[Karl begins to ramble here...]

>With headlights on, mixed bag.
>Indicator on. Light off.

Um... Yes. I mean No. Or maybe Yes...

[Karl rambles further...]

> So somehow these systems are connected.
> Or rather, you have shorted your turn signal with your
> headlight circuit.
>
> Is it possible that you switched the grounds?

[Andy is starting to look concerned...]

I don't think you can "switch" grounds on a DC circuit; they
are all going to the same place: ground. But if you break one
ground connection, current can double back through other
connections at that point, leading to weird results when the
other circuits start functioning in series with the first one
(e.g. turn signal arrows start glowing dimly).

> I am certain that Andy Green has already posted the correct
> answer, so....

[Andy looks relieved...]

>Wait a sec, I think I gots it...

[Andy looks concerned again, and begins discreetly looking around
for an escape route...]

>Your turn signal is essentially a relay, right?

Um... no, it's a bimetallic switch, actually.

> A double pole double throw multivibrator that is
> energized/disengaged by current, right?

Yes. No. Wait a minute, wasn't a double pole double throw
multivibrator that is energized/disengaged by current what
Lex Luthor was threatening to destroy the world with?

> So it just occurred to me that mayhaps the turn signal is not
> energized by current, but by a related function which I will
> not pretend to understand at this time.

If it's a related function, it must be the Republicans, who were
elected to local office recently, and I've had trouble with the
horn on the spouse's Dodge ever since.

> [Karl says it is a switch]]
>
> What if, with the relay contacting one pole, the indicator
> lights up. On the other pole, the signal lamp lights up.

Karl, that sounds like a Volkswagen Beetle turn signal... or
a railroad crossing.

> See where I am headed?

Off the side of the road into the ditch?

> Somehow, by switching grounds, or whatever happened, you have
> integrated the headlamp circuit into the left (?) turn circuit.

Ah-ha! Integration! So it's the Liberals! No wonder they never
signal their left turns...

> When you turn on you headlamps, the current flows to the turn
> signal relay, and energizes it! It locks the relay into one
> position!

The headlamps are not connected to the turn signal, and the
turn signal is not a relay, and the headlamps cannot energize
the turn signal, and the turn signal which is not a relay cannot
be locked into one position, but otherwise I think you've got it.

> (Actually bad, you can burn the contacts of the relay, causing
> it to stick w/o headlights on)
>
> So it gets locked into the position with indicator on, and
> headlamp off!

Yes! I mean No! Can I go now?

> And it is otherwise slower because the normal current is also
> feeding the headlamp system and the relay-related function that
> switches the relay takes longer to operate.
>
> Maybe.
>
> But wait for AG's (correct) response.

I am scared to write anything further.

> This has been another hallucination from:
>
> KA
> &SOM

Keep 'em coming, Karl!

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 12:12:17 -0400
From: Margie Francioli <mfranci@bcpl.net>
Subject: 1986 toronado

I have a 1986 Toronado, dark blue, recently repainted same color, new
headliner, good tires, 92,000 miles.  I am as I speak having the dash
instrument cluster replaced at a very high cost.  In April, I had the
instrument dash module replaced also.  This car has had lots of bugs in
the electronic/computer system since the beginning.  This was the first
model year that all this high-tech business was installed.  I love this
car, the doors are so heavy, the car rides good, but I will have to go
on to something new, so that when I retire in a few years I will have a
later model car to last me the rest of my days.  Any one interested, let
me know.  I live in Baltimore, MD, zip 21234.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 12:23:57 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: News Item

In a message dated 98-08-05 11:18:41 EDT, you write:

<< Apparently this is the bi-annual GM reorg. >>

Uh.....

Let me put it this way....

Clint Easwood used a slightly different term towards the end of "Heartbreak
Ridge".

You know...as the Recon DI..

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 11:38:41 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@leadbelt.com
Subject: Re: Turn signal problems.

Messrs Green,  Aune, & Padavano:

Excellent interchanges gentlemen. Best entertainment on list in veritible
coon's age. Thanx.


roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 12:36:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Smokey

Problems, problems, problems.. all of a sudden the 455 starts smoking on
the right bank only...only at idle..seems to run fine but smoke, smoke,
smoke..gosh, i hope not a ring.. maybe valve seals ?? Anyone got any ideas?


thanks

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 12:47:59 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: How fast?

Thomas,
	I must have missed an earlier posting on this subject, but how
did you measure these times? Did you use an in-car device?

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Thomas Martin [SMTP:Thomas_Martin@css.mot.com]
> Sent:	Wednesday, August 05, 1998 10:23 AM
> To:	'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject:	How fast?
>
> Well I finally did a few timed speed runs with the Rocket 350 and my
> lazy 2.14 gears.
>
> 30-50   3.61 seconds
> 50-70   6.06 seconds
> 55-75   6.06 seconds
> 60-80   7.04 seconds
>
> 400 Pontiac

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 11:50:37 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: Many things

Well, I finally got a new pc for home use.  To relate it to cars, the
486/50 I was using was running on anywhere from 5-7 cylinders, with 5
being the most common recently.  So now I'm using a pentium 166 with
64MB ram and 4GB harddrive.  Anyway, got my modem setup and was out
surfing the net last night, checked out Jim McKeague's page, nice shots
from Springfield.  Also checked out Mr Ada's page (couldn't do that with
the old pc, for some reason it wouldn't load the page).  Frosty is
looking real good with those SSII.  I've always liked SSII, which is
probably why I'm putting them on my W-31.  You where gonna part out
Scarlet, is the only thing wrong with it front body damage? (excluding
interior)  Boy, if that's the only thing wrong with it, it would be an
easy resto, since no panel replacement from rust is involved.

Also, I'm heading back to the boneyard this Sat and a few people
expressed interest in some parts a couple weeks ago.  Just wondering if
anyone else wants me to check on anything?  The cars they have are a 71
S and 72 supreme.  Both are 350 a/c auto cars and I don't think there is
any good sheetmetal left or grilles.  Let me know what interests you.
There also is a mint 66 trunk lid there on a Cutlass.

Also, noticed someone here at work has a 71 S.  I checked it out briefly
yesterday, doesn't look too bad.  Radiant green ext (yuk), bench seat,
column shift auto, some rust around the rear wheel well lips,
aftermarket rims (5 slots), broken grille and a few missing emblems.
I'll have to see if he's interested in selling it.

Finally, my W-31 goes to the transmission shop Sun.  So hopefully within
a week or two I'll being driving the wheels off of her (hopefully not
literally though) and then on Sun Sept 13, I'll enter her in her first
show (that she'll make it too) in St Louis.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 11:18:46 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: FE3X

That was in an 85 Car Craft.  Have the article somewhere.  Awesome car.  .97g
lateral acceleration...  Really cool.  Yes, that ~is~ the Darth Vader car at 
the
R.E.Olds museum.  (Sure, Joe.  I'd ~love~a couple ~thousand~ pictures!!!  :)
- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 10:19:34 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Many things

Chris,

> from Springfield.  Also checked out Mr Ada's page (couldn't do that with
> the old pc, for some reason it wouldn't load the page).  Frosty is
> looking real good with those SSII.  I've always liked SSII, which is

Thanks for the complement.  Frosty thanks you to! :-)

> You where gonna part out Scarlet, is the only thing wrong with it front
> body damage? (excluding
> interior)  Boy, if that's the only thing wrong with it, it would be an
> easy resto, since no panel replacement from rust is involved.

Actually there is some rust in both lower fenders and the hood is tweaked a
little.All in all not too much to redo.

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 13:37:17 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Lifespan of Tires

In a message dated 98-08-04 17:42:50 EDT, you write:

<< What is the lifespan of tires in years?  My 1969 442 tires were made
 the 48 week of 1982.  >>

I'd drive 'em til I saw cracks in the sidewalls.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 12:40:10 -0500
From: "David Popadic" <davepop@execpc.com>
Subject: Things to do!

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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My work is sending me to Detroit for a week and was wondering what's =
there to do.  I will, naturally, be going to Lansing and stopping at the =
Musuem.  How good is the Musuem?  Is there anything else I should be =
looking to do in either Detroit or Lansing (Car related, of course!, ok. =
not necessarily car related since I'll be taking the wife).  I'm coming =
from Southeast Wisconsin (and am driving) in case there is anything else =
on the way that somebody can tell me to stop and check out!

Thanks in advance!
Dave
1967 Cutlass Convertible



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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>My work is sending me to Detroit for =
a week and=20
was wondering what's there to do.&nbsp; I will, naturally, be going to =
Lansing=20
and stopping at the Musuem.&nbsp; How good is the Musuem?&nbsp; Is there =

anything else I should be looking to do in either Detroit or Lansing =
(Car=20
related, of course!, ok. not necessarily car related since I'll be =
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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks in advance!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Dave</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>1967 Cutlass=20
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- ------=_NextPart_000_0040_01BDC06E.2F36D4A0--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 13:39:57 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: 200R4 info

For the "shiftless" among us, the current issue of High Performance
Pontiacs has an article about installing a 200R4 in a GTO, including
modifications to the factory Dual Gate to allow it to work with the 4 speed
slushbox.  Apparently Poncho motors don't make enough torque to liquify
that tranny, but the info might be of interest to someone contemplating a
similar swap into an A-body Olds.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 12:45:49 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: Things to do!

How about the Motown museum?
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
13 Wins 10 Losses
======================


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	David Popadic [SMTP:davepop@execpc.com]
	Sent:	Wednesday, August 05, 1998 12:40 PM
	To:	Olds Email List
	Subject:	Things to do!

	My work is sending me to Detroit for a week and was wondering what's
there to do.  I will, naturally, be going to Lansing and stopping at the
Musuem.  How good is the Musuem?  Is there anything else I should be looking
to do in either Detroit or Lansing (Car related, of course!, ok. not
necessarily car related since I'll be taking the wife).  I'm coming from
Southeast Wisconsin (and am driving) in case there is anything else on the
way that somebody can tell me to stop and check out!
	 
	Thanks in advance!
	Dave
	1967 Cutlass Convertible
	 
	 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 12:47:27 -0500
From: "David Popadic" <davepop@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Things to do!

How about the Motown museum?
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net


What is the Motown Musuem? and where is it?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 11:54:08 -0600
From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: MSD'S IGNITION MODULE?

Hi Sam,

>Has anyone out there in Oldsmobile land tried to use MSD's ignition module?
>You know the one that in the distributor. I am thinking about replacing the
>one in my distributor and was wondering was it worth it.

I'm using the module in my '68 442 convertible and my '69 Chevelle SS, and
I am quite happy with it.  I use a 6AL in my '68 442 hardtop since it is a
4-speed car, and I feel safer with the rev-limiter in the 6AL.

Installation for the module and the 6AL was quite straight-forward, and I
would recommend either unit, although I prefer the rev-limiter on manual
transmission cars.

Bob

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----
 Robert J. Lavey			mailto://rjlavey@hotmail.com
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.			Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302			Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 13:51:52 EDT
From: <R4C442@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Smokey

Hey Al!
    Sounds to me like a head gasket. Were the heads recently off and possibly
not re-torqued properly? Try pulling the coil wire, crank the engine over a
few times, then pull the plugs on the affected bank. If you see that green
stuff in any cylinder/plug then it is probably the head gasket (let''s not
even mention cracked head).
                                                                Ron Forsee
                                                                65 442-Meister


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 13:15:28 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: RE: Things to do!

While in Detroit check out the Henry Ford Museum and Greenfield Village.  It
is worth the trip to Detroit.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4--2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 13:17:46 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: Things to do!

Where are you from?

You ever heard of the Motown review?  The Temptations, Smokey Robinson and
the Miracles, Dianna Ross and the supremes, ect.

You can go to there website @ http://www.motown.com/ and learn everything
that you don't know now  :  )  The address should be there too.
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
13 Wins 10 Losses
======================


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	David Popadic [SMTP:davepop@execpc.com]
	Sent:	Wednesday, August 05, 1998 12:47 PM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	Re: Things to do!


	How about the Motown museum?
	======================
	Sam E. Johnson, JR.
	>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net


	What is the Motown Musuem? and where is it?
	

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 14:24:28 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Sudden SOM Death Syndrome + RRAP (REAL long)

No. SOM lives.

And PLEASE do NOT copy this message!!!!!

But something scary happened on the road this morning.
Rained nearly all night.
Soylent started fine when I left work.

Every once in a while while operating ...

Engine dies.

VERY suddenly...NO fanfare or warning.

Motoring, and ...zip.

Rather, a lack of zip.

First occasion was scary.
Because after the first occasion of brake application, I lost the vacc in the
vacc power booster and had... well, no brakes.
But more on that in a separate post.
Ebrakes work, but barely adequate, gotta tweak cable.

It is possible to restart in neutral.
At highway speeds, starter squeels when restarting.

I finally had to pull over an investigate (could not restart).

I remembered the first occasion and never let up on the brake...so stopping
OK.
(Just gotta attend to loss of vacc when pedal releases)

In park, started fine.
Ran engine for a while, no probs.

So I gotsa get out and look at it.
Not desireable.
Narrow shoulder.
Wide car.

So Karl cranks down the pass window and clambers out.

First thought was electrical short.
But of recent tweakings not much was electrical.
So Karl looked for something massive that might make intermittent contact.
Looked first at battery.
New DieHard 1000cca.
Big batt, actually fits. Not able to contact anything else with pos terminal.

Hmmm.

Looked at latest addition.
Fuel hose.

Only thing that changed there was that fuel filter now goes above trans fluid
lines. Did not see how air bubbles in hose could cause engine to die. Engine
and tranny lines were warm so Karl took time to wrap filter housing.
Elsewhere....

Over there...
Oh....

As the faithful followers of the Great SOM Saga will recall....

(BTW ;Let me take this time to personally thank the faithful. In particular
Mike (??) Turley who mentioned that he was an avid reader. Just the one
mention makes this worthwhile. And I cannot think of any other means [besides
FAQ and Chassis Manual] that I could consult to keep SOM going. Thanks
everybody!
Does this count as being a published author?)

....that the idiot lights but no start prob was traced (finally, 6 mos later)
to a corroded connection to the wire harness. Well, on that Wednesday two (?)
weeks ago when I swapped starters again, and ultimately was opined to that I
may need a flexplate (ooh, foreshadowing!) by the mechs. When the culprit was
a leaking battery. On that date I was trying to eliminate the variables for
trouble-shooting purposes. I did replace starter then, and, with my trusty
soldering pencil replace the male connections from the wire harness to the
batt leads for better contact. I did also fabricate a replacement for the
yellow wire ("S" ?) as I thought it suspect due to a small length of exposed
stranded wire between insulation and "U" type contact which allowed bends that
could cause shorting.

Well I had the factory yellow wire *and* my fabricated lead attached to
starter.

But only the factory lead connected to wire harness.....

The new one was out of the way..secured by winding top end under pos batt
lead...

I saw that (end near innner fender surface) and thought..oh..there is a
potential short...drops of rainwater ran down the inner fender and when they
struck the lead, they shorted out the motor (wait...I know the protest, I will
get there in a sec...). So I (motor was running) touched the lead to the inner
fender, saw tiny sparks, heard motor slow slightly, and thought.."Rrrr."
[Ah, that's it!].

So I placed the end of the wire out of the way.

No probs after that.

It was only when I started to write this that i realised what the problem
REALLY was.

That wire is fed (normal operation) by batt (-) terminal!
(Karl used batt neg to this contact to hot wire starter!)

So why a short to ground of (-) wire?

Because it energized the starting motor solenoid!

DOH!!!!!!!!

I *thought* I was slowing more than normal!

No wonder the starting motor pinion squealed at highway speeds!

It was ALREADY engaging the flexplate!

DOH!!!!!!

So you see, by using plastic shrouds over *all* connections, GM has engineered
out certain problems........

However the solutions are NOT idiot proof.

<sigh>

Almost forgot RRAP....(getting longer and longer).
While pulled over, I happened to be on the same shoulder as an elderly couple
whose transmission on their early 1980's Oldsmobile (a D88) had died. After
speaking briefly with the owner, I sped away (impressively, shoulder ended
soon) and alerted the toll collector, who was a scant two miles away, of their
plight. All I could do really. At that time, I was not certain I had solved
the prob, so I was not willing to try to push (with Soylent) the ill 88 to
civilization...

My first duty as a Rocket Road Assistance Program Volunteer.

It was impossible to do similarly while carpooling......

SOM
&KA

(priorities)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 14:25:44 EDT
From: <KWhite5590@aol.com>
Subject: Re: How fast?

Mr. Martin I will have a comparison that you can use soon.
I have an 83' Cutlass with a slightly modified 307.
1. Accele Super Coil
2. K+N Filter charger
3. High flow PFP catalytic converter
4. Maremont cat-back dual exhaust with Thrush Cal -Turbo mufflers
5. Home built Ram Air induction
6. Turbo 350c trans with B+M shift kit
7. Robert Shaw  Hi-performance 160 thermostat
8. Z-28 15x7 wheels with BFG 245-50-15 Euro Radial tires
9. 16 degrees base timming
10. and last but not least 2.14 rear gear ratio
I have had the up to 130 mph, but not yet done any foot times.It seems as that
the power band on my engine is higher. After 35-40 the flat out flies. When
doing 60 and I  open the throttle it gives my neck a nice snap back to the
headrest of my Recaros'.The car grunts as good as my wifes' 85 305 TPI Trans-
am.I'll post the info in about one week.Hope it helps you out.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 13:26:41 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: Lifespan of Tires

>I'd drive 'em til I saw cracks in the sidewalls.

This reminds me of a fellow from this area who is the original owner of a 73
vette with 454 and 4 speed with 18,000 original miles.  He was giving his car
a little exercise about 3 years ago when one of the original tires blew out at
about 120 mph.
They looked good and had tread, but age had caught up with them and he had not
given any thought about them.  The vette went upside down, inflicting much
damage to a very nice original car.  The owner was not seriously injured and
the vette has since been restored.  What was once a shining example of
originality is now your average nice
restoration.

Can we all learn from his mistake?  I did, I replaced my decent looking 13
year old tires last summer.  Better safe than sorry.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 14:29:19 EDT
From: <KWhite5590@aol.com>
Subject: Re: information

JCRASH7.
Where did you see it?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 11:30:24 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Smokey

At 12:36 PM 8/5/98 -0400, you wrote:
>
>Problems, problems, problems.. all of a sudden the 455 starts smoking on
>the right bank only...only at idle..seems to run fine but smoke, smoke,
>smoke..gosh, i hope not a ring.. maybe valve seals ?? Anyone got any ideas?
>
>

I doubt it is a head gasket. my 403 is doing the same thing lately :(
I just went threw the head gasket thing  with the old 330 and this is
showing none
of the head gasket symptoms . I am planning on a freshly rebiult 350 in
spring
so I'm just going to throw in some CD2 and hope it stops it.
BTW: i've noticed that it only smokes when the oil pressure isat or below
20 PSI

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 14:34:34 EDT
From: <KWhite5590@aol.com>
Subject: Re: FE3X

Found my copy of 'vader' it was in HOT ROD march 86. anybody have copies they
want to sell?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 14:37:21 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Things to do!

In a message dated 98-08-05 13:42:49 EDT, you write:

<<  be going to Lansing and stopping at the Musuem.  How good is the Musuem?>>


Well, when I was there, the Darth Vader car was out in the open.

If you do not see it, ask where it is.

If it is not in a public area whine or wheedle until you do see it.

The same goes for the W-45 Hemi-Olds (# ??).
It is truly just a frame with wheels and a motor, but make noise anyway!!

Also there is a chopped 66 (?) Toro that was used as an emergency vehicle for
the Olds plant in the mid 60's that is interesting to see (if you do not have
"setting the pace". And even if you do!

Oh.
One last thing.
Lansing can be difficult to navigate.
Some distance to the north of the museum and visitor's center (or whatever
they call it) there are two major thoroughfares which are one-way streets.
These are crucial to know about if you plan on going east or west.
Heading north, the first one of these that you find goes east (forget name).
The next one-way street goes west.
This is important because as you go west these two one-way streets join to be
a two-way, six lane thoroughfare  (sp?).

After Centennial, Karl knows his way about by feel, not by street names.
Although if starting from Power & Light building....Karl is WAY lost....

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 14:48:02 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Turn signal problems.

In a message dated 98-08-05 12:16:13 EDT, you write:

<< Yes! I mean No! Can I go now? >>


<<<<<<I slay me!>>>>>>>

I stand corrected.

Andy slays me more!

Hah!!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 13:49:19 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: 200R4 info

Just remembered something.  At the Centennial, in the car corral,
someone had a 71 or 2 supreme, that was red with a 200R4 in it.  If
memory serves correctly, I believe they were asking somewhere in the
7K-8K neighborhood, I may have the brochure or some info on it in my
Lansing stuff at home, can't recall.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 12:02:04 PDT
From: "flynt myrick" <f_myrick@hotmail.com>
Subject: Camshaft Question

List members,
 Camshafts are a mystery to me.  I need some help.
 My 1969 442 with the original 400 was rebuilt by the car's previous
owner with a camshaft purchased from NAPA.  I took the part number to my
local NAPA store where they gave me a copy of the camshafts
specifications. They are as follows:

 intake cam lift - .250
 exhaust cam lift - .251
 intake valve lift - .400
 Exhaust valve lift - .402
 Overlap - 36
 Advertised intake duration - 250
 Advertised exhaust duration - 264
 SAE intake duration - 277
 SAE exhaust duration - 291

 What do these numbers mean?  Is this a mild cam, an RV grind camshaft,
or a race camshaft?  The car has the 3.23 ratio rear end.  The car
shakes when it is in gear.  Is this caused by the camshaft?  The car is
driven in town.  Is this a good camshaft for my car's engine size and
rear end ratio?  How does the present camshaft compare to the original
camshaft? Should I have the camshaft replaced? What about a roller
camshaft?
 Any help will be appreciated.

Flynt Myrick
f_myrick@hotmail.com
http://www.hotmail.com


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 14:14:52 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Smokey

How many miles on the Olds 455?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Olds Smokey
> Date: Wednesday, August 05, 1998 11:36 AM
>
>
> Problems, problems, problems.. all of a sudden the 455 starts smoking on
> the right bank only...only at idle..seems to run fine but smoke, smoke,
> smoke..gosh, i hope not a ring.. maybe valve seals ?? Anyone got any
ideas?
>
>
> thanks
>
> Al Varhus
> Columbus, Ohio
> http://www.infinet.com/~avar
> http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
> Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
>   Mid Ohio Chapter #136
>   Gem City Rockets
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 15:05:15 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: EGR blockoff

>Anyone ever blockoff the EGR valve with a plate on a newer Olds? I want to
remove the EGR valve on my 80 Olds 350 as
>part of my cleaning up the engine area to see my chrome valve covers
project :-) Will blocking it off hurt performance
>or cause any hesitations? Thanks

Tough to say; I'd bet you'd get more pinging under certain conditions, and
unless you rejet your carb, you won't experience any performance increase
(improvement in driveability, perhaps).

JFTR, the EGR doesn't get in the way of the valvecovers, and when painted
satin black it blends in nicely with all the other things on the engine.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	              MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 14:17:21 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: How fast?

I hope that thermostat is a 180 not a 160. at 160 your engine really wears
out (cylinder walls especially) also your efficiency is down quite a bit...
Not familiar with Robert shaw  330-160.   Probably a 330-180.
>>>Brett

- -----Original Message-----
From: KWhite5590@aol.com <KWhite5590@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, August 05, 1998 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: How fast?


>Mr. Martin I will have a comparison that you can use soon.
>I have an 83' Cutlass with a slightly modified 307.
>1. Accele Super Coil
>2. K+N Filter charger
>3. High flow PFP catalytic converter
>4. Maremont cat-back dual exhaust with Thrush Cal -Turbo mufflers
>5. Home built Ram Air induction
>6. Turbo 350c trans with B+M shift kit
>7. Robert Shaw  Hi-performance 160 thermostat
>8. Z-28 15x7 wheels with BFG 245-50-15 Euro Radial tires
>9. 16 degrees base timming
>10. and last but not least 2.14 rear gear ratio
>I have had the up to 130 mph, but not yet done any foot times.It seems as
that
>the power band on my engine is higher. After 35-40 the flat out flies. When
>doing 60 and I  open the throttle it gives my neck a nice snap back to the
>headrest of my Recaros'.The car grunts as good as my wifes' 85 305 TPI
Trans-
>am.I'll post the info in about one week.Hope it helps you out.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 15:26:41 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: POSI NEEDED

Kerry Kroger wrote:
>
> give up I asked this a week and a half ago and got no response
> once again thats a posi unit for a type "O" differential need it to accept 4
> serries gears thanx
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Seiver - Account Executive <DavidS@AnaServe.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Tuesday, August 04, 1998 1:49 PM
> Subject: RE: POSI NEEDED
>
> >It is a 67 f85 and I dont know if it is a o or c---it came with the car and
> >I believe it is original.

Guys! Guys! Guys! Take it easy.... I'm looking in Jeg's right now, and i
see a 12-bolt posi by AuburnGear for 65-72 4.10-up for $380. Unless you
want original, I think this is the closest you'll get.

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
         777777 33333
            77      33
Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
          77        33
         77     33333
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 14:21:45 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: EGR blockoff

EGR  Exhaust Gas Recirculator
Helps Performance when tuned right, reduces pinging, lowers emissions.
Tried it on my old 83 CS Brougham as well.
my.02
>>>Brett

- -----Original Message-----
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, August 05, 1998 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: EGR blockoff


>>Anyone ever blockoff the EGR valve with a plate on a newer Olds? I want to
>remove the EGR valve on my 80 Olds 350 as
>>part of my cleaning up the engine area to see my chrome valve covers
>project :-) Will blocking it off hurt performance
>>or cause any hesitations? Thanks
>
>Tough to say; I'd bet you'd get more pinging under certain conditions, and
>unless you rejet your carb, you won't experience any performance increase
>(improvement in driveability, perhaps).
>
>JFTR, the EGR doesn't get in the way of the valvecovers, and when painted
>satin black it blends in nicely with all the other things on the engine.
>__________________________________________________________
>Bob Barry                MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
>1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
>1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
>1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
>http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 14:41:16 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Camshaft Question

The camshaft would be a very mild camshaft. More or less a stock daily
driver. As for the car shaking in gear, I don't believe it could be caused
by the camshaft. I would go with a more high performance camsahft and WOULD
NOT get it at NAPA. Go to a company such as Competition Cams, Mondello,
Edelbrock,etc. stay away from Pep Boys,NAPA, Auto Zone,etc..
Replacing the camshaft does require quite a bit of work. The lifters,
pushrods and maybe even the rocker arms have to be replaced. With the motor
in the car this makes the job even harder. It can be done, but does require
avereage mechanical skills.
Check out Dick Miller's website and see what he has to say.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: flynt myrick <f_myrick@hotmail.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Camshaft Question
> Date: Wednesday, August 05, 1998 2:02 PM
>
> List members,
>  Camshafts are a mystery to me.  I need some help.
>  My 1969 442 with the original 400 was rebuilt by the car's previous
> owner with a camshaft purchased from NAPA.  I took the part number to my
> local NAPA store where they gave me a copy of the camshafts
> specifications. They are as follows:
>
>  intake cam lift - .250
>  exhaust cam lift - .251
>  intake valve lift - .400
>  Exhaust valve lift - .402
>  Overlap - 36
>  Advertised intake duration - 250
>  Advertised exhaust duration - 264
>  SAE intake duration - 277
>  SAE exhaust duration - 291
>
>  What do these numbers mean?  Is this a mild cam, an RV grind camshaft,
> or a race camshaft?  The car has the 3.23 ratio rear end.  The car
> shakes when it is in gear.  Is this caused by the camshaft?  The car is
> driven in town.  Is this a good camshaft for my car's engine size and
> rear end ratio?  How does the present camshaft compare to the original
> camshaft? Should I have the camshaft replaced? What about a roller
> camshaft?
>  Any help will be appreciated.
>
> Flynt Myrick
> f_myrick@hotmail.com
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 14:44:32 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: How fast?

Why would the engine wear out with a 160degree thermostat? Why would the
cylinder walls especially wear out? I'm just curious. I have a 160
thermostat in my 455 and it runs at 180degrees. Stuck in traffic it may
climb to 185.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Brett Wilson <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: How fast?
> Date: Wednesday, August 05, 1998 2:17 PM
>
> I hope that thermostat is a 180 not a 160. at 160 your engine really
wears
> out (cylinder walls especially) also your efficiency is down quite a
bit...
> Not familiar with Robert shaw  330-160.   Probably a 330-180.
> >>>Brett
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: KWhite5590@aol.com <KWhite5590@aol.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Wednesday, August 05, 1998 1:21 PM
> Subject: Re: How fast?
>
>
> >Mr. Martin I will have a comparison that you can use soon.
> >I have an 83' Cutlass with a slightly modified 307.
> >1. Accele Super Coil
> >2. K+N Filter charger
> >3. High flow PFP catalytic converter
> >4. Maremont cat-back dual exhaust with Thrush Cal -Turbo mufflers
> >5. Home built Ram Air induction
> >6. Turbo 350c trans with B+M shift kit
> >7. Robert Shaw  Hi-performance 160 thermostat
> >8. Z-28 15x7 wheels with BFG 245-50-15 Euro Radial tires
> >9. 16 degrees base timming
> >10. and last but not least 2.14 rear gear ratio
> >I have had the up to 130 mph, but not yet done any foot times.It seems
as
> that
> >the power band on my engine is higher. After 35-40 the flat out flies.
When
> >doing 60 and I  open the throttle it gives my neck a nice snap back to
the
> >headrest of my Recaros'.The car grunts as good as my wifes' 85 305 TPI
> Trans-
> >am.I'll post the info in about one week.Hope it helps you out.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 12:38:23 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 200R4 info

Wait a minute Joe,

The 1970 GTO was available with a 455 rated at the same 500 lbs of
torque that the Oldsmobiles engines claimed that year. This is
impressive in the fact that due to lack of planning Pontiac just put
basically a Bonny engine in the GTO as an option for people who were
turned on my the cubes. They didn't make a high performance 455 until
the 1971 model year.

I will have to pick up the issue of High Performance Pontiac though. I
want to see what they are doing to that 200-4R to make it hold up. I was
planning on putting an overdrive trans in Mr. Hankey when he gets his
455, but nobody will build a 200-4R (or a 700-R4 for that matter) that
they will guarantee behind the torque. I am starting to lean towards
gear vendors.

>  Apparently Poncho motors don't make enough torque to liquify
>that tranny, but the info might be of interest to someone contemplating
a
>similar swap into an A-body Olds.


Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 15:45:49 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: POSI NEEDED

Guys! Guys! Guys! Take it easy.... I'm looking in Jeg's right now, and i
see a 12-bolt posi by AuburnGear for 65-72 4.10-up for $380. Unless you
want original, I think this is the closest you'll get.

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
_________________

Sorry, Matt, but I'm sure that the 12 bolt setup in Jeg's is a Chevy (aka
Type C).  It's not interchangeable with a Type O 12 bolt unless you swap
out the entire axle housing.  As an example, the Chevy 12 bolt uses an
8.875" ring gear, while the Olds uses an 8.5" ring gear.  More importantly,
the Chevy actually uses 12 bolts to hold the ring gear to the carrier
(coincidentally, there are also 12 bolts on the cover), while the Olds uses
only 10 bolts on the ring gear (despite having 12 on the cover).

As an aside, someone at Carlisle was selling a "12 bolt" and asking big
dollars.  I pointed out that this was an _Olds_ 12 bolt, not a Chevy, with
it's corresponding 10 bolt ring gear.  The seller was not amused.

One other question.  Has anyone ever figured out how close the ring and
pinion in the Type O 12 bolt is to the one in the 71-up corporate 10 bolt?
Both have 8.5" ring gears held on with 10 bolts.  Is there some way to
adapt the later gears to the earlier (67-70) Olds 12 bolt housing?

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 12:45:29 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Camshaft Question

flynt myrick wrote:

> List members,
>  Camshafts are a mystery to me.  I need some help.
>  My 1969 442 with the original 400 was rebuilt by the car's previous
> owner with a camshaft purchased from NAPA.  I took the part number to my
> local NAPA store where they gave me a copy of the camshafts
> specifications. They are as follows:
>
>  intake cam lift - .250
>  exhaust cam lift - .251
>  intake valve lift - .400
>  Exhaust valve lift - .402
>  Overlap - 36
>  Advertised intake duration - 250
>  Advertised exhaust duration - 264
>  SAE intake duration - 277
>  SAE exhaust duration - 291
>
>  What do these numbers mean?  Is this a mild cam, an RV grind camshaft,
> or a race camshaft?  The car has the 3.23 ratio rear end.  The car
> shakes when it is in gear.  Is this caused by the camshaft?  The car is
> driven in town.  Is this a good camshaft for my car's engine size and
> rear end ratio?  How does the present camshaft compare to the original
> camshaft? Should I have the camshaft replaced? What about a roller
> camshaft?
>  Any help will be appreciated.
>
> Flynt Myrick
> f_myrick@hotmail.com
> http://www.hotmail.com
>

  Flynt,
This is a typical generic one size (kinda) fits all auto parts store cam.
It is actually smaller than any of the original 69 4-4-2 cams.  Original 69
4-4-2 cam specs are as follows:

Automatic (exc. W-30, W-32):  262/274 duration, .440" valve lift, overlap 48
deg.
Manual trans (exc. W-30) and W-32: 286/286 duration, .472" valve lift,
overlap 58 deg.
W-30:  328/328 duration, .475" valve lift, overlap 108 deg.

Since the NAPA cam is smaller in both lift and duration, I doubt that it is
causing your rough idle condition.  I would do a compression test, check the
timing and dwell, idle mixture.  And look for vacuum leaks.  As any of these
could be the culprit of your rough idle.  Not the camshaft.

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1407
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