Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
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cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1441


oldsmobile-digest       Friday, August 21 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1441



Re: Joliet race track
Re: rpm on H/O (83-84)
Re: SX start woes
Desperately seeking '66 88
Re: Anecdotes: Vaccuum Booster for Power Brakes
UNBOUNCE: bad luck, got to buy pistons, where?
Re: Heads for 455?
Striped carburetor intake bolt
Re: Need Help Tuning Q-Jet
Re: more piston options
RE: Hold-down minutiae
Re: Interior Color Change
Spark plug color
Timing?
Volt meter
Re: Heads for 455?
Re: Spark plug color
Re: Volt meter
Re: Striped carburetor intake bolt
Re: Attention all 81-88 "G" body members.
Racing gas
Re: Unbounce: bad luck, got to buy pistons, where?
Re: Spark plug color
Re: Striped carburetor intake bolt
Re: 65 Jetstar 88 Conv F/S
Screen Saver Completed
Re: Anecdotes: Vaccuum Booster for Power Brakes
Re: Spark plug color
Re: Ignition swapping
Re: Unbounce: bad luck, got to buy pistons, where?
Re: Volt meter
Re: Timing?
Show in Northampton MA
Re: Show in Northampton MA
clicking??????please help
Re: Screen Saver Completed
Re: clicking??????please help
Re: Almost finished...
Re: clicking??????please help
Re: Heads for 455?
Re: clicking??????please help
Re: clicking??????please help
BLINKER IS NOT WORKING
Split Fire vs Rappit Fire
Does racing smell different?
Does racing gas smell different?
Re: Volt meter
Special Thanks (Was Q-Jet Tuning)
Re: BLINKER IS NOT WORKING
87 442 Ad
Re: BLINKER IS NOT WORKING
Re: Classifieds
Re: 87 442 Ad
You inherit gray hair from children
Re: BLINKER IS NOT WORKING
Re: Does racing smell different?
Re: Split Fire vs Rappit Fire
EVERYONE: wheels
Re: 87 442 Ad
Re: 87 442 Ad
Re: You inherit gray hair from children
'72 Cutlass Console Mounting
Re: clicking??????please help
farm auction Sat. / park light ? / need carb

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 00:11:08 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Joliet race track

My friend was at the track Tuesday night. You are talking about Wednesday
night, right?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Johnson, Sam <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
> To: 'Oldsmobile' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Joliet race track
> Date: Thursday, August 20, 1998 6:42 AM
>
> I went to the race track last night to race and was disappointed when I
> couldn't because they had bracket racing going on, Bummer.
>  There was a 1972 Cutlass with the licence plate (ROCET 72)  I think
that's
> what it was.  I also so an Oldsmobile Cutlass Wagon  carry the wheels.
are
> either of the cars list members?
> ======================
> Sam E. Johnson, JR.
> >  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
> >1971 Cutlass S 455
> >Westside! Chitown IL
> 17 Wins 11 Losses
> ======================

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 22:03:07 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: rpm on H/O (83-84)

I don't spend much time at 50, and 45 is about where it shifts into OD
if you're taking it very easy, so at 50 you could still easily be in 3rd
gear.  But, I think mine is about 18-2000 RPM at 50.  At 60 it's around
22-2400.  Up around 75 you start to wind out a little, at about 3200.

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 23:00:25 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: SX start woes

Robert Barry wrote:

> (now I just have to figure out what
> vacuum hose is disconnected, as my mode lever doesn't select "vent" or
> "defrost" anymore...).

 Robert,
It is most likely the orange stripe vacuum hose going to the right (pass. side)
diaphragm located behind the kick panel.  As this controls the defrost door
on A/C cars.

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 02:59:01 EDT
From: <LooseCanno@aol.com>
Subject: Desperately seeking '66 88

Hello again all!

Got a phone call today from a movie production company.  As everyone
remembers, I was solicited by a "locator" of automibiles for the entertainment
industry.  This locator gave my name to another company who wants to do some
post-production shots for a film on which principal photography was done in
(shudder) Canada. (JUST KIDDING!)  Who knows, maybe a listmember supplied the
original car.

Anyway, he asked me if I knew of anyone with a "1966 Oldsmobile '88
Convertible."  I snuck a look at Barnes and Noble, and I learned that there
were Dynamics and Deltas that year.  (I'm not yet an expert on Olds, of
course, so I needed the book.)  I think that for most purposes, either would
suffice.

The production supervisor says that the car in the bulk of the picture was a
light blue color, probably metallic, with a blue interior. (Sorry about the
vague descriptions) It was a convertible.  He told me that the color of the
car may not be a problem - although I'm not sure what that means.

He needs a car as soon as possible - and, of course, he's in Hollywood.

If anyone knows of such a car, or something substantially similar, PLEASE e-
mail me privately and tell me what you've got.  Remember, I don't have all the
answers yet, so please be patient, and hopefully, someon on the list can pick
up some extra money - and we'll all have another movie to watch!

Gotta be at least a little better than "Black Cat Run" -
"Suspect is on hiway sixty in a fo-fotey-two!"

Subject for your e-mail = MOVIE 88

Take care all!

Erik
'69 Cutlass convert

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 00:21:21 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Anecdotes: Vaccuum Booster for Power Brakes

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:

> If any of y'all have had your power booster fail, I wanna hear about how
> your
> car was behaving before it failed.

I lost my power booster... It would actually pull the peddle up and
practically lock the tires up when ever I just lightly touched them. Finally
found the problem and it was a bad vaccum assist for my brakes. About 70
bucks later and a few broken knuckles I was back on the road. Hope this
helps.I also got my Aluminum heads finally going. I'll write the list soon
about my adventures and conquests of the aluminum heads for the BB OLDS!

Ben

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 06:47:35 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: bad luck, got to buy pistons, where?

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: bad luck, got to buy pistons, where?

Hi Guys,

maybe some of you followed: Had my 350 blocks at the shop today and they
are both more then 30 over! I can't use my 30 over pistons and rings... ;-(

(anybody needs used pistons and new rings 30 over cheap?) I will have to
buy new ones.
Where do I get them and if my shop gets them what do I have to tell them
for specs???
I would like to go for high compression! had lo comp. in before. Is that
more expensive? As you guys already know George is always for the good
deal version... Please answer soon...

Thanks, So long

George


P.S.:
I also would sell cheap orig. 2bbl carb + intake + air cleaner of my 68
cutlass. Maybe someone is interested in original sway bar and front
drums? Also there are some orig. valve covers. and oil filling tubes...


- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 06:41:32 -0400
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Heads for 455?

        I think $250-350 is about right for a set of "C" heads depending on
condition and with a valve job. It could run you over $1000 to fully prep
them and make them perfect.

Jim Chermack

At 06:57 PM 8/20/1998 PDT, you wrote:
>If $350 is steep, then what should one be prepared to pay for a working
>set of "C" heads?
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 06:47:12 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Striped carburetor intake bolt

I striped my carburetor intake bolt and was wondering how do I fix it.
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
17 Wins 11 Losses
======================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 08:34:44 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Need Help Tuning Q-Jet

<snip>
>Questions:
>#1) What's the best way to set the Idle Adjustment Screws?


Initial setting maybe 1-1/2 turns out (whatever idles good). Final tuning
needs emissions sniffer equipment (good garage mechanic or dealer). Tune by
ear at your own risk, since emissions may not pass.

>#2) What's the best way to set the Idle Air Bleed Valve?
>#3) Does anyone have two early model Idle Adjustment Screws that have
>the screwdriver slot in them that they would be willing to sell? Mine


NAPA sells the correct funky screwdriver for idle screws and the special
adjustment gages for the MCS stops. My local NAPA store didn't stock the
gages, but they were able to order them thru their catalog. Comes with
instructions.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 08:46:17 -0400
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: Re: more piston options

Hello all,
 Member George has been posting about his problem with his two 350
blocks being "more than .030 over".
 He didn't say how much over, but the 425 has the same compression
distance as the 350. You can bore a 350 +.063", and use a std 425
piston.
 I think i've read that you can bore the 350 gas block[older blocks
only?] as much as +.125? A +.030 425 piston would be +.098 on the 350
block. A +.060 425 piston would be +.128" on the 350 block.
 Badger still lists the hi compression 425 piston[#P510], although the
compression distance is reduced apx .020, as it is with most cheap
replacement cast pistons sold. It has a dish of apx 6.3 cc, as does the
hi compression Badger 350 piston[#518].
 The reduced compression distance on the replacement pistons requires a
deck cut to get the compression up[and good quench]. As far as the
wieght, i believe that if the replacement piston is no more[or less]
than 10% difference in wieght you don't need to rebalance.  Hey George,
i have set of good used o.e.m. 425 hi comp std pistons if you would
consider using used pistons. I think the dish is 3 or 4 cc in those.
$40+shipping. the 4.125"[+.063 on the 350 block] bore would give you apx
362 cubes.
FYI for interesting reading about quench and such go to
www.kb-silvolite.com/page07.htm

Dave Brode
64 cutlass 11.41@119.96

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 08:12:04 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: Hold-down minutiae

First, thanks Joe for cc'ing me on this.
>
>First, for Chris Smetana:  My 1969 factory service manual clearly shows the
The ~service~ manual, hmmm, never thought to check that.  I'll have to
look.

>clip _with_ fingers being used to hold the modulator pipe on TH350
>applications.  See Fig 7-663 on page 7-679.  BUT - the TH400 modulator pipe
>is restrained with the non-fingered clip and the notorious plastic
>strap-type retainer, apparently what Chris has on his car (these are shown
>in Fig 7-24 on page 7-25).  In fact, Fig 6B-119 shows two of the "fingered"
I was going by the ~assembly~ manual and what you describe for the TH400
is what I remember seeing.
>
>but this time as Fig 6B-114.  In addition, the 1970 manual uses the same
>modulator pipe drawings as the 1969 manual, with the fingers used on the
>TH350 and the strap on the TH400.  In either case, the vac advance hose to
>the distributor is retained to the clip on the RH valve cover using one of
>the straps.  With the TH350, only the hose is retained with the strap,
>while with the TH400, both the modulator pipe and the hose are held with
>the same strap.
That TH400 drawing/picture sounds familiar as it was the one I was
referring to.
>
Hmm, actually my car currently does ~not~ have any clip on the valve
covers.  I was going by the assembly manual to determine what I needed.
I breifly looked at a drawing last night, but don't recall whether it
was TH350 or TH400, I didn't realize the potential differences.  A
thought (uh-oh), could it be possible that the service manual and
assembly manual reference difference clips/brackets?  Or there are two
different assembly manuals?  I know mine is hard to read, my copy is
from Year One.

I will have to investigate further, maybe I got in the way and reported
as to having/needing the wrong clip.


Chris (it's too early in the morning, but it is friday) Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31 I pick it up from the tranny shop today (dance of joy inserted
here)
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 09:17:08 EDT
From: <ANTIQOLDS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Interior Color Change

In a message dated 98-08-20 17:30:36 EDT, you write:

<<
 Does he or she like this combination? Does it look good
 to your eye? I think it the best of the factory solutions, but
 have never seen it live & direct.
  >>
   Yes, he & she like the combination, I also thoght it was good just enough
of each color so its real bright or dark, I'm sure you would be satisfied

Everett   OCA# 1961   1961  Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 08:21:58 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Spark plug color

What is the right color for a perfect burning spark plug.

Does anybody have a picture of one that they can email me?

======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
17 Wins 11 Losses
======================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 06:18:39 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Timing?

Can anyone please tell me the base timing for a '78 Cutlass with a Ch*vy
305 (Automatic, 4-bbl, broken A/C)?  It's tune-up time this weekend, but
since I just moved all my manuals are in storage for a few more weeks.
I did manage to find the timing light though :-)

Thanks in advance!

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 08:35:13 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Volt meter

I have a volt meter for my car but I don't know how to connect it.

Can somebody please help me?
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
17 Wins 11 Losses
======================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 09:56:42 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Heads for 455?

I've never paid more than $50 each for good cores in any standard letter
head (C,E,G,Ga). The last set of G's I bought were $35 each. Fresh working
STOCK heads should cost $300-$400. If you pay $350 for cores, you might as
well buy Edelbrocks because by the time you do all the refurbishing and
performance work to them, you'll have nearly $1300 into them. I'd spend the
extra $200 for aluminum. Simply my opinion.

- -----Original Message-----
>
>If $350 is steep, then what should one be prepared to pay for a working
>set of "C" heads?
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 10:07:47 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Spark plug color

I understand that a correctly running engine will have light tan electrodes
on the spark plugs.

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Johnson, Sam <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
To: 'Oldsmobile' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, August 21, 1998 9:23 AM
Subject: Spark plug color


>What is the right color for a perfect burning spark plug.
>
>Does anybody have a picture of one that they can email me?
>
>======================
>Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>>1971 Cutlass S 455
>>Westside! Chitown IL
>17 Wins 11 Losses
>======================
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 07:12:10 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Volt meter

> I have a volt meter for my car but I don't know how to connect it.

Assuming it really is a _volt_ meter and not an ammeter, you can
connect it to any switched 12V circuit in the dash. On GM cars,
that would typically be pink wires, which are switched Hot. In
the dash you'll find orange wires which are hot at all times,
not what you're looking for. Your gauge's positive terminal taps
into a pink wire; its negative goes to a good ground. You may
also have an unused IGN or ACC port on the fusebox you can plug
into; that'll work just as well.

Avoid the gray wires; those are dash backlighting on a rheostat,
so the voltage will be lower than main system voltage and give
you false readings.

If it's an ammeter, measuring amps on a -30/0/+30 scale or similar,
you need to cut into the 10-gauge wire between the alternator and
starter solenoid, but that's a whole 'nother conversation...

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 10:10:30 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Striped carburetor intake bolt

I striped my carburetor intake bolt and was wondering how do I fix it.
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
______________

Sam, do you mean that you've stripped the threads in the intake manifold
that the carb bolt goes into?  The only option here is to get a Helicoil
repair kit.  A Helicoil is essentially a "spring" of stainless steel wire
wound so that the inside diameter of the Helicoil is the same as the female
thread you're repairing.  The wire used in the Helicoil is a diamond
cross-section (instead of round) so that you actually have a set of female
threads on the inside and male threads on the outside.  The kit comes with
an installation tool and a special tap to allow you to tap a new hole for
the Helicoil to screw into.  You'll need to get the correct tap drill (not
included) to open up the stripped hole prior to using the new tap.  The
Helicoil package will specify the correct drill size.

Simply open up the stripped hole with the drill (be sure to keep is
straight) and tap it.  Screw the Helicoil insert over the installation
tool, coat the outside of the insert with Locktite, and screw it into the
hole.  It will compress slightly on installation.  When the top coil is
below the surface of the intake, unscrew the installation tool, leaving the
Helicoil in the hole.  The bottom end of the coil will be bent in towards
the center (which allowed the installation tool to drive it) and this tang
must be broken off using a small screwdriver or punch.  Be sure to pull it
out of the hole using needle nose pliers or a dab of grease on the end of a
screwdriver.  You now have repaired the threads to their original size and
can use this as you would any tapped hole.  In fact, if the intake is
aluminum, the repaired threads will be stronger than the originals.  This
works with aluminum or cast iron intakes.

Assuming the intake is already on the car, you can still perform this
repair.  Just cover the carb holes to prevent any chips from entering -
duct tape works well.  These bolt holes should be blind, so you shouldn't
need to worry about chips - just vacuum the chips out of the hole before
installing the Helicoil.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 10:30:32 -0400
From: Stephen Palomba <spalomba@IDT.NET>
Subject: Re: Attention all 81-88 "G" body members.

JJP442@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hey Steve, My last message to you was stating that I live in Astoria 5min 
from
> where you work. Let me know what you want for that decklid, so I can see if I
> can swing it. Been doing some serious renovations at my house lately, so I
> have to go with the budget, you know what I mean.
> Waiting to here from you, (E-mail direct w/$)
> John,
> JJP442@aol.com
> 1983 HurstOlds
> 1987 442

Hey John,

	It appears I can't e-mail you direct to aol. Don't know why.
I sent you an e-mail last night with my beeper # on it direct to aol.

	Just in case you did not get it there, here it is again.

		Beeper (917) 904-0093

page me and I will call you back. We can talk $$$$ then.

Thanks

Stephen Palomba
65 cutlas
65 Vista Cruiser
72 Cutlass convert

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 09:33:05 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Racing gas

I brought some racing gas from a different gas station the other day and it
was clear and also no racing gas smell and also my car performed a lot
better. This gas was rated at 112 instead of the 108 that I had got before.

Question is, I thought that racing gas had a pinkish color to it and also I
thought it had an alcohol smell too.
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
17 Wins 11 Losses
======================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 10:45:11 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Unbounce: bad luck, got to buy pistons, where?

In a message dated 98-08-21 05:49:36 EDT, you write:

<< (anybody needs used pistons and new rings 30 over cheap?) I will have to
 buy new ones.>>

Yup.
New is best.

Fast, huh?
Brother's is out.

Cheap?
.....
.....
.....
Sorry, did not want to laugh in font of you.

I may be missing out on all good deals, but I think $200 is relatively cheap
for a new set of eight.

Then there is Joe Mondello.....
(Shudder!)

But try the commo...

(Hmmm...)

???

!!!

Seems Kanter has pistons - 1968 350 - $30 each.
Still $240
And no mention of the (+) sizes.
But mebbe you can gat a "package" deal.
(973) 334-9575

I have been real happy with these guys.

Good luck.....and...

<< P.S.: I also would sell cheap orig. 2bbl carb + intake + air cleaner of my
68 cutlass. Maybe someone is interested in original sway bar and front drums?
Also there are some orig. valve covers. and oil filling tubes...   >>

How much for just carb and aircleaner.
(Karl not need 350 intake ... too small)

KA



(SOM in the shop!)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 07:47:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Spark plug color

  I have a Chilton Manual (1970-198?) that has an insert with a LOT of
info on spark plugs and pictures of correct looking plugs, as well as
damaged.  I'll see if I can get it scanned this weekend.  As far as I
can remember, a normal plug will have a slight tanning color (kind of
like a toasted bagel).

Stefan
sgadecki@yahoo.com
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 10:52:48 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Striped carburetor intake bolt

In a message dated 98-08-21 07:48:19 EDT, you write:

<< I striped my carburetor intake bolt and was wondering how do I fix it. >>

I presume that you mean that you have stripped the threads that are actually
*on* the cab body. This is a common problem as the "pot metal" is relatively
weak.

What you need is an oversized, self-tapping fitting.
I have one on my 2GC and another in toolbox.

You can find these at many ~*GOOD*~ parts places. You just need to know what
to ask for. Place I went to had four sizes!

???

Wait a sec....

Are you talking about the Holley?

Hmmmmnnmmmnmmm.

Karl know more Roch than Holley.

Not familiar with your (double pumper?) model either.

Send more info. What is stripped, where is it, and is this the main feed or
one of two equalized feeds (not know Holley terms either).

Karl not know Holley.
Holly, on the other hand.... :-)}

KA



(SOM in shop)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 11:03:43 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 65 Jetstar 88 Conv F/S

In a message dated 98-08-20 16:05:13 EDT, you write:

<< Needs front clip - hood, fenders, grill, misc. chrome. I have Certificate
of Appraisal valuing car at $6K. Must sell  ASAP (by 8/21/98 if possible).
Mechanicals in excellent condition;  >>

Hmmmm.

I know a car like that.....

(Yes, Karl has SAME needs)

Cannot imagine where $6000 appraisal is from.
Must have been *before* the accident!

Yeah. The accident like I had...bumper, grille, rad support, hood, fenders
(well other forces were at work there).

Although If anyone wants a project car to rival mine, $1500 is close to what I
paid for Soylent Ocean mist!

KA

(Sadly, without SOM)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 16:51:32 -0400
From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: Screen Saver Completed

I know where Dan's page went....bye bye for awhile.

We are in the process of changin our web server over from a UNIX box to
an NT obx, and my page will be down for a while.  Sorry for the
inconvenience...the only copy of the .zip file that i have is on the
UNIX box, so as soon as I can get to it, I will furbish you all with the
good stuff

Thanks,

Daniel R. Gerow

- --
- ---------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
Computer Support
Systems Administrator
Stonehill College
320 Washington Street
Easton, MA 02357
dgerow@stonehill.edu
- ---------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 11:15:42 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Anecdotes: Vaccuum Booster for Power Brakes

In a message dated 98-08-20 14:57:48 EDT, you write:

<< My booster was out for about a year.the car behaved fine before it blew.
Then the pedal started to get hardwith very little travel.In order to panic
stop  I had to stand on it. And I noticed a whooshing noise from under the
dash,It got louder with the hush panel removed.Figured the diaphragm rippedin
the booster. >>

<< KARLAUNE wrote >>

Geez, I hope I did not write it in caps...

And thanks to those who have sent your "stories". I had never before heard of
one going bad, so I wanted to put to rest any misgivings I might have about
parts of the brake system that were actually OK.

Short version:
SOM in shop now; symptoms have been a brake pedal that varies between drum
tight and 1" or more of pedal before any braking takes place. New symptoms
include pulling left when braking (think summat leaking in right rear drum)
and VERY little drag when "parking" brake is engaged.

( 2 days ago, Karl lifted left side of car and fiddled with park brake
adjustment; fiddle, spin rear tire; fiddle, spin rear tire.... when thought
finished, park brake pedal had way too much resistance too soon....and still
an insignisicant amount of drag!!!)

So anyway, as soon as SOM is feeling better, I am off to the yarde in Fort
Wayne, nd both of my brother's Bachelor parties (not in that order!).

And I gotta fix the hood latch...the bracket on the rad support broke a weld I
think...

KA


(Feeling naked without SOM)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 11:20:05 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Spark plug color

>What is the right color for a perfect burning spark plug.


Brown to light tan color. No blobs of shiny stuff, no black carbon, no
crusty white stuff, no smell of gasoline, no wetness of any kind.

>Does anybody have a picture of one that they can email me?
>


Champion made a nice color poster of plugs that you can probably still get
at some auto parts stores. A scaled down version of it is in the back cover
of the Haynes repair manuals.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 11:30:49 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Ignition swapping

>> I have a '68 Delmont
>>and want to switch to an HEI ignition.  Is there a good scrap yard system I
 [snip]
>When you grab the HEI, be sure to get the two wires and connectors that
>plug into the cap from the engine harness.  One is the 12 volt feed and the
>other is the tach feed. These connectors are unique, so you'll need them to
>splice into your harness.  Also, check the conditions of the bushings in

If you don't have a tach, or if the donor car doesn't have a tach, then you
won't be able to use or to find (respectively) that additional connector.

You have to replace the stock (+) feed wire (which is a resistor wire) with
a non-resistor wire; instead of tapping into a new circuit, you can have a
clean factory setup using the whole wire from the donor (more time
consuming to pull, but you save time in rewiring your car later). To remove
it intact from the donor's harness, pull away the plastic sheathing around
the harness between the HEI and the firewall, trace the (+) feed wire and
untangle it from the loom, and unbolt the plastic junction on the firewall
(one bolt in the center).

You'll see a bunch of copper spades looking at you; to remove the whole
wire, clean out some of the goop that seals the wire in from the other
side, use some needle-nose pliers on the edges of the copper spade for your
(+) feed wire to compress it, and then while using the pliers on the flats
of the blade, wiggle it out gently (when you pull it apart, you'll see what
I'm talking about). Do the same on your car to replace your resistor wire
with the donor's wire, retape your harness, and it will look like it always
belonged there!

>Karl is also correct about recurving the distributor.  A distributor
>machine is the best way, but you can do this on the car with a timing light
>and a degree tape on the balancer.  Expect to replace the cap and rotor,

Get an adjustable vacuum advance kit; if you follow its instructions,
you'll have recurved your distributor optimally for your engine. I'd be
hesitant to recommend a recurve on a machine, since the shop won't know
what the optimal curve for the distributor would be (the factory curve for
your points unit or the donor HEI unit would work, but would not likely be
optimal).

>To wire the HEI up in the car, find the two wires going to the "+" side of
>the coil currently.  One of these comes from the START position on the
>ignition switch and is a simple wire.  The other comes from the RUN

Well, it actually comes up from the "S" terminal on the starter, and is
soldered to the same terminal that the resistor wire goes to. If you
replace your resistor wire entirely like I described above (and save it, if
it is good condition; someone with an original points-type distributor and
a fried harness can use it, like I did with an old one on my SX), you can
just unscrew the other end of this wire from the starter solenoid and
remove it in one piece. I'm in favor of as few stray and unusued hot wires
laying around the engine compartment as possible...
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	              MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 11:27:18 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Unbounce: bad luck, got to buy pistons, where?

Seems Kanter has pistons - 1968 350 - $30 each.
Still $240
____________

$240 for OEM-style cast pistons?  Ack!  You can get Sealed Power or TRW
forged for $280-$320 a set from Northern Auto Parts.

Note to George - I left my catalog at home - will try to call them this
afternoon.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 11:39:43 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Volt meter

>I have a volt meter for my car but I don't know how to connect it.
>
>Can somebody please help me?
>======================
>Sam E. Johnson, JR.


Negative side to a really solid ground connection, like with a screw and
star lockwasher to the body.  Positive side to any switched +12 volt line at
the fuse block.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 08:44:56 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Timing?

At 06:18 AM 8/21/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Can anyone please tell me the base timing for a '78 Cutlass with a Ch*vy
>305 (Automatic, 4-bbl, broken A/C)?  It's tune-up time this weekend, but
>since I just moved all my manuals are in storage for a few more weeks.
>I did manage to find the timing light though :-)
>
>Thanks in advance!

4 degrees BTDC @ 500 rpm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 08:58:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Show in Northampton MA

  I finally got info!  Show is on Aug. 22 (tomorrow)  Rain date is
Aug.23.  It's in Northampton,MA.
Exits:  91 North - exit 19, 91 South - exit 20.  Time 11am to 5pm.
Free admission

 I'll be there, and I hope I'll see some of you guys.

Stefan
sgadecki@yahoo.com
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 12:20:20 EDT
From: <RICH6986@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Show in Northampton MA

thanks for the info i will be there to with my 85 cutlas

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 12:52:50 EDT
From: <RICH6986@aol.com>
Subject: clicking??????please help

on my 82 cutlass supreme it a V-6 3.8ltr   when i gave give it gas there is a
loud clicking sound and the more gas i give it the faster the clicking is but
it doesnt do it in park,nuetral,or reverse just in drive TIA   
Rich			81,82,85
cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 10:01:45 -0700
From: Chris & Robin Miller <cya442@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Screen Saver Completed

Daniel R. Gerow wrote:

> We are in the process of changin our web server over from a UNIX box to
> an NT obx, and my page will be down for a while.  Sorry for the
> inconvenience...the only copy of the .zip file that i have is on the
> UNIX box, so as soon as I can get to it, I will furbish you all with the
> good stuff
>
> Thanks,
>
> Daniel R. Gerow
>

    I still have a copy of the screen saver zip file on my hard drive.  If
anyone wants a copy I can send it to you attached to an email. Just let me
know.

- --
Chris Miller
'68 442
San Diego, CA
mailto:cya442@mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 10:09:39 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: clicking??????please help

Is this sound coming from inside the car when you drive? Both of the G
Body cars I have had started to do this. It was the speedometer cable. I
don't know if this is the problem you have though. Probably need more
information to help you more accurately.

Hope this helps,


Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)


>on my 82 cutlass supreme it a V-6 3.8ltr   when i gave give it gas
there is a
>loud clicking sound and the more gas i give it the faster the clicking
is but
>it doesnt do it in park,nuetral,or reverse just in drive TIA   
Rich			
81,82,85
>cutlass


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 10:13:21 PDT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Almost finished...

Well Brian,

Sounds like a match made in heaven.

Happy Motoring,

Chris Rivier
'66 Delta 88...The BEAST in progress.
'88 Festiva...ZIPPY 165K+@40mpg


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 13:23:58 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: clicking??????please help

RICH6986@aol.com wrote:
>
> on my 82 cutlass supreme it a V-6 3.8ltr   when i gave give it gas there is a
> loud clicking sound and the more gas i give it the faster the clicking is but
> it doesnt do it in park,nuetral,or reverse just in drive TIA   Rich
81,82,85 > cutlass

That might be a motor mount going bad.  When the engine is under load it
will twist to one side a little even with good mounts.  If a mount goes
bad it twists a lot and it's possible that it's twisting so much now the
fan is hitting the shroud.  I guess it's also possible that the shoud
has come loose somewhere and is just close enough to the fan now that it
hits when the car is shifted into gear.

I'd get a  buddy to sit in the car with the brake on and the tranny in
drive then pop the hood and listen to see where the noise is coming
from.  Just be careful if you get near the fan of course.

Hope I was of some help.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Crusier  http://home.talkcity.com/HotRodRd/greg28/
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 10:19:20 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Heads for 455?

Ed Binnix wrote:

> If you pay $350 for cores, you might as well buy Edelbrocks because by the
> time you do all the refurbishing and performance work to them, you'll have
> nearly $1300 into them. I'd spend the
> extra $200 for aluminum. Simply my opinion.

You each are entitled to your opinion, however. Buy your aluminum heads. You
will be waiting over a year to recieve them. In that time you could have bought
your C heads learned to port them yourself and saved a load of money. But since
450 seems steep to most, I'm gonna lower mine to 400. Stock heads, with a
recent valve job. Ran beautifully before I got my aluminum heads (waited over 9
months for!) They have guide plates for stock pushrods and roller tippd
rockers. If you are looking for a good set of heads and don't want to wait a
year or spend 2000 on aluminum then These are the heads for you.

Ben
62 olds f-85
http://www.primenet.com/~olds442/forsale.html
68 Olds 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 13:19:41 EDT
From: <RICH6986@aol.com>
Subject: Re: clicking??????please help

its coming from the engine   what else would you need to know	

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 10:32:23 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: clicking??????please help

>its coming from the engine   what else would you need to know	

Check the driver's side motor mount. My wife had an '85 GrandPrix with a
3.8. When the motor mount finally gave, the cooling fan would hit the
fan shroud when you put it in drive.

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 12:31:52 -0700
From: "David E. Cohen" <thunder@onr.com>
Subject: BLINKER IS NOT WORKING

To all electrical brains:

My left front blinker is not working.  I've replaced (and tested) the
bulb.  The dash board light and the left rear blinker are working.

I just got her out of the body shop with complete new paint--original
Nordic blue, and the blinker is the last hurdle in order to get her
inspected here in Texas.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

David
'72 CS Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 12:38:47 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Split Fire vs Rappit Fire

I am thinking about changing from Split Fire Spark Plugs to Rappit Fire
Spark Plugs and was wondering if anyone had done this already and what is
your input on this. Is worth the Change or should I keep the Split Fire?

Is there anyone that changed from Split Fire to another spark plug?
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
17 Wins 11 Losses
======================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 12:40:29 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Does racing smell different?

I brought some racing gas from a different gas station the other day and it
was clear and also no racing gas smell and also my car performed a lot
better. This gas was rated at 112 instead of the 108 that I had got before.
Question is, I thought that racing gas had a pinkish color to it and also I
thought it had an alcohol smell too.

======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
17 Wins 11 Losses
======================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 12:44:35 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Does racing gas smell different?

I brought some racing gas from a different gas station the other day and it
was clear and also no racing gas smell and also my car performed a lot
better. This gas was rated at 112 instead of the 108 that I had got before.
Question is, I thought that racing gas had a pinkish color to it and also I
thought it had an alcohol smell too.

======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
17 Wins 11 Losses
======================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 13:56:09 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: Volt meter

Johnson, Sam wrote:
>
> I have a volt meter for my car but I don't know how to connect it.

Positive to the positive side of the battery, or any other HOT lead
whether it's ignition or just battery

Negative to Ground.
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 13:56:16 -0400
From: "Weaver, Stanleigh G" <Stanleigh.Weaver@PHL.Boeing.com>
Subject: Special Thanks (Was Q-Jet Tuning)

Special thanks to:

Karl Aune
Steve Ochs
Dave Cullen
Tom Lentz (Excellent web page Tom, great tuning tips for G-body cars!!)

All responses are greatly appreciated. I'll work on the car this weekend
and let you know how it turns out.



        Stan Weaver

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 10:58:08 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: BLINKER IS NOT WORKING

> My left front blinker is not working.  I've replaced (and tested)
> the bulb.  The dash board light and the left rear blinker are
> working.

On your '72 you should find _two_ bulbs on the left rear; I assume
that's what you meant. If one of the two brake lights on either side
burn out, that may be sufficient to stop the turn signal from flashing
on that side.

So anyway, assuming the left side has three working bulbs (two in
back, one in front), you might have a screwed-up ground connection
somewhere. Put the parking lights on, plus the 4-way flashers, and
walk around to see if all are flashing at equal brightness. A socket
with a bad ground will be using the other circuit (either Parking or
TurnSignal) as a ground, and when both circuits go live, the bulb then
goes out. So if you find a bulb going _out_ when it's supposed to get
brighter, there's your culprit. I kind of think you're going to see
one of them doing this on the left side. Tell us what you find.

Finally, you could have a marginal flasher and slightly less current
draw on the left side than the right. I think your car needs a #323
flasher unit. If you find a 2-bulb #522 in there instead, maybe it's
overloaded and borderline-toasted...

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 14:29:54 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: 87 442 Ad

Someone had an 87 442 ad on their web page...

I have looked up and down, and can't remember where.....

Anyone know where such beast is hidden?
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 14:49:45 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: BLINKER IS NOT WORKING

In a message dated 98-08-21 13:34:17 EDT, you write:

<<  My left front blinker is not working.  I've replaced (and tested) the
bulb. The dash board light and the left rear blinker are working.

 I just got her out of the body shop with complete new paint--original Nordic
blue, and the blinker is the last hurdle in order to get her inspected here in
Texas.
 Any suggestions?  >>

Ooooh!
Nordic blue!!
(I do not know what it is, but I think I like it!)

Yes. I have a suggestion.
Please mention when the last time was that it worked correctly.
Did it always *not* work, or did it only not work after ~body~ work.
You say you tested bulb.
Karl assumes bulb was good.
So Bulb good, indicator good, tail bulb blinks.

Karl's guess is (yes, A.G....) a bad ground in front.

But seriously, when did it go bad?

KA
( <sniff> )

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 14:33:09 -0500
From: "Robert Spencer" <tomy@sockets.net>
Subject: Re: Classifieds

I promise to send the info. this weekend as I just have to much to do today,
and I have to go to work soon. I am also going to try to have a friend scan
some pictures of it for me and email them to me so I can send them to anyone
who is interested, as I do not have a scanner. talk to you
later.......Robert
- -----Original Message-----
From: Smetana, Christopher <csmetana@dowagro.com>
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, August 20, 1998 2:52 PM
Subject: RE: Classifieds


>I am going to sell my 1972 Cutlass Supreme Convert. It has some nice
>options +ACY- I have a bunch of parts for it, used +ACY- new. i.e..
>N.O.S. rear quarters and LH front fender. Many, many parts. Anyway, I
>have listed it in the classifieds today at www.442.com and www.oip.net .
>I was wondering if anyone new of any other web addresses I could post it
>at. Or possibly someone which might be interested in it. (would like to
>sell it to get money for a house.) Needs Restored. Any info. would be
>greatly appreciated.
>
>Thank you.
>
>Robert S.
>
>
>Robert, off the top of my head...
>www.myclassiccar.com
>www.traderonline.com
>www.hotrodheaven.com
>
>
>BTW, how 'bout some more info on the car, since you peaked many a list
>readers interests.  Price, condition, options, engine, tranny, colors,
>running or not, etc,etc
>
>Chris Smetana
>Terre Haute, IN
>work: csmetana@dowagro.com
>home: chris@abcs.com
>
>1969 W-31
>1969 4-4-2 parts car
>plus others

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 16:00:43 -0400
From: Bill Gochenour <gochenow@stjohns.edu>
Subject: Re: 87 442 Ad

Jerry Christopher wrote:
>
> Someone had an 87 442 ad on their web page...
>
> I have looked up and down, and can't remember where.....
>
> Anyone know where such beast is hidden?
> --
>                 - Jerry Christopher -
> IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
>        HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI


Check out the ad at this location on my site,
http://area51.stjohns.edu/~toychest/pics/442ad.jpg

Let me know!

- --

Bill !

1986 442 "The Perfect 10"                     _           _       ___
     Mobile Electronics Show Car            /  |        /  |    /  _  \
1983 Hurst/Olds 15th Anniversary Edition  /    |      /    |   |_|   | |
     100th Centennial Celebration #2218 /  / | |_   /  / | |_      /  /
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Z-34             |_____   _| |_____   _|   /  /__
				             |_|         |_|   |_______|


		* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
		* Comming Soon----->3STICKS.com *
		* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

        http://area51.stjohns.edu/~toychest     (updated 8/15/98)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 15:04:31 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: You inherit gray hair from children

Number one son Greg tried to ride the guard rail with the neon today. front
end, hood windshield, roof, undercarriage damage, and a punctured fuel tank.
Nobody injured, just the car.  Olds content:  He was not driving the Olds!!!!
I guess I will have to be thankful he is not into cars and has no interest in
the Olds.  Of course I have Michael and he is an Olds fanatic.  I may have to
start a 20 year frame off resto to keep him out of it in three years.

Turning grayer every day,
Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 16:06:49 -0400
From: "VBDeveloper" <vbdeveloper@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: BLINKER IS NOT WORKING

I had the same problem on my '69. If all your bulbs are OK, change the
flasher. Hope it helps.

- ----------
> From: Andrew C. Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: BLINKER IS NOT WORKING
> Date: Friday, August 21, 1998 01:58 PM
>
> > My left front blinker is not working.  I've replaced (and tested)
> > the bulb.  The dash board light and the left rear blinker are
> > working.
>
> On your '72 you should find _two_ bulbs on the left rear; I assume
> that's what you meant. If one of the two brake lights on either side
> burn out, that may be sufficient to stop the turn signal from flashing
> on that side.
>
> So anyway, assuming the left side has three working bulbs (two in
> back, one in front), you might have a screwed-up ground connection
> somewhere. Put the parking lights on, plus the 4-way flashers, and
> walk around to see if all are flashing at equal brightness. A socket
> with a bad ground will be using the other circuit (either Parking or
> TurnSignal) as a ground, and when both circuits go live, the bulb then
> goes out. So if you find a bulb going _out_ when it's supposed to get
> brighter, there's your culprit. I kind of think you're going to see
> one of them doing this on the left side. Tell us what you find.
>
> Finally, you could have a marginal flasher and slightly less current
> draw on the left side than the right. I think your car needs a #323
> flasher unit. If you find a 2-bulb #522 in there instead, maybe it's
> overloaded and borderline-toasted...
>
> -- Andy
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 16:58:18 EDT
From: <SHELTERMEN@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Does racing smell different?

The color of racing fuel is up to the manufacturer.  As for the smell, I can
tell you that the racing fuel I buy for my circle track car has a very
different smell than does regular gas, especially coming out of the exhaust.
Tim
'68 Delmont
76 Cutlass Street stock

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 17:00:06 EDT
From: <SHELTERMEN@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Split Fire vs Rappit Fire

My Uncle, who worked for the Budweiser Pro-Stock team, says, "If split fire
plugs are so much better, why aren't all racers using them?"
Tim
'68 Delmont
'76 Cutlass Street stock

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 14:11:28 -0700
From: "David Seiver - Account Executive" <DavidS@AnaServe.com>
Subject: EVERYONE: wheels

Hello all!

I am desperate to get a good set (chrome preferred) of rims for my '67 olds
cutlass f85.
I want the biggest wheels I can fit.
PLEASE HELP!
David
800-711-6030 ext 283 work
davids@anaserve.com
rims@anaservehosting.com
rims@oldsmobile.net
rims@mremail.com
714-825-4815 voicemail pager
714-574-7723 home

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 17:25:10 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: 87 442 Ad

Bill Gochenour wrote:
>
> Jerry Christopher wrote:
> >
> > Someone had an 87 442 ad on their web page...
> >
> > I have looked up and down, and can't remember where.....
> >
> > Anyone know where such beast is hidden?

>
> Check out the ad at this location on my site,
> http://area51.stjohns.edu/~toychest/pics/442ad.jpg
>
> Let me know!

I knew it was around here somewhere....  I tried all over to find it,
kept thinking it was one your page, but couldn't find it off hand...  Go
figure??  <G>

- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 17:26:52 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: 87 442 Ad

Bill Gochenour wrote:
>
> Check out the ad at this location on my site,
> http://area51.stjohns.edu/~toychest/pics/442ad.jpg

That's the one...  Anyone else have any ads??  <G>
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 18:15:43 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: You inherit gray hair from children

David, I understand completely.  My son was provided with a '70 98 for his
first car.  LOTSO sheet metal and chassis rails.  But he continues to ask
the two following questions: 1)  Can I have the keys for the (70) 442?  2)
When are you going to get it painted?  The answers are always 1) No.  2)
When you are thirty.  Good luck, and you can always resort to Just For Men.
Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
To: Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, August 21, 1998 4:06 PM
Subject: You inherit gray hair from children


>Number one son Greg tried to ride the guard rail with the neon today. front
>end, hood windshield, roof, undercarriage damage, and a punctured fuel
tank.
>Nobody injured, just the car.  Olds content:  He was not driving the
Olds!!!!
>I guess I will have to be thankful he is not into cars and has no interest
in
>the Olds.  Of course I have Michael and he is an Olds fanatic.  I may have
to
>start a 20 year frame off resto to keep him out of it in three years.
>
>Turning grayer every day,
>Dave Wyatt
>70  4-4-2
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 16:25:28 -0600
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: '72 Cutlass Console Mounting

Does anyone happen to have the blueprints or know the measurements of the
rear console mounting bracket for a '70 - '72 Cutlass?  Or does anyone
reproduce this bracket?  I'm tired of my console flopping around in my car.
I need to get it hooked up and mounted correctly.  I'll also need to know
the exact location to weld the bracket.  I have both the Factory Service
Manual and the Fisher Body Manual for my Cutlass, so if that info is
included in there, will someone tell me which page(s) and I'll go dig the
books out of storage (Doh!)

Thanks for any help,

- -Blaine

P.S. - I once had a FRONT console mounting bracket in my possession.  This
is the one that bolts to the transmission tunnel up by the firewall and the
console screws to it.  I was smart enough to trace it and measure it and
draw blueprints for it while I had it (it didn't belong to me).  So if
anyone needs to know how to reproduce that bracket, let me know and I'll
send the plans your way.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 17:53:29 -0400
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <tjacquillard@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: clicking??????please help

When the motor mount finally gave, the cooling fan would hit the
> fan shroud when you put it in drive.
SNIP
Good suggestion. Another more extreme case (true story) was my buddies
car. He had the tranny worked on and when they re-installed it, they
didn't tighten the bell housing. The tranny came loose and when the
engine torqued, it would chatter (or click) pretty bad. The faster he
went the worse it got until we figured it out. It was pretty evident
once we seen the 1/2" gap between the engine and tranny.
T.J.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 18:33:14 EDT
From: <MFATZII@aol.com>
Subject: farm auction Sat. / park light ? / need carb

     Took the 56 to the man that owns/started Nebraska Hot Rod Association
Thursday to tell me why my carb was burning too rich and why it hesitates so
bad.  Turns out the throttle body is wore pretty bad allowing air to leak
where it's not supposed to.  I was told it can't be fixed and the reason why
it runs better when warmed up is because the heat expands the metal of the
carb causing a better seal.  Runs pretty good once warmed up !! any way, I
have a holley 600 I'm thinking of installing.

     Does any body have a 4 bbl carb they would like to part with?? (must be
54,55,or56)  save me the trouble of the following please!!

First question.  It has a manual choke (Holley)  this just requires running a
cable to the dash right?  Might have to use some Afric@n American Engineering
to set up the linkage for the kickdown and accelerator.  plus the carb needs
rebuilt pretty bad (judging by the leaves, cob webs, and dead bugs inside)
not to mention going from 425 cfm to 600 cfm.......

Next.    Found out that my park lights work when the switch is in the correct
posistion.  But when I got to the "headlights on" posistion (knob out two
clicks) the park lights go out.  Is this supposed to happen?  everything else
works.(signals and shtuff)

Third and finally,  My brother's, girlfriends, grandfather is having a huge
farm auction tomarow (Saturday) and there are two 1970 Cutlass' out there,
expected to go for around a hundred bucks (not deer).  One is a runner with
some minor rust (ran when parked but no spark now) the other is a parts car.
Anything special to look for ?   I was told that the one is a yellow
car.....maybe it's a Ralleye (Ryan crossing fingers).  also going to look at
the title-less 47 Chevy 2dr and the 14' boat w/ trailer........

Is there anything about a 1970 cutlass I should look for (shifter or guage
wise, seats, rims whatever)  I haven't seen the cars so I don't even know if
they are 442's  "S" or what.....I suppose if they are cheap enough I should
jump on em' right?  always beautiful Olds people looking for parts.......

Ryan (MFatzII@aol.com)
Lincoln,   Nebraska  (Home of the Cornhuskers, too bad they suck !)

56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project Rocket)
<A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click here</A>
85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
89 Chevy Beretta CL


    888                888
  8      8           8       8
8          8       8           8
  8      8           8       8
    8  8               8   8           LIVES
  8      8           8       8
8          8       8           8
  8     8            8       8
    888                888

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1441
*********************************
