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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1462


oldsmobile-digest    Wednesday, September 2 1998    Volume 01 : Number 1462



Re: 1966 Olds Cutlass 88 4-Door, 330 Eng, 67K miles
Chrome valve stem caps
Option production numbers.
Re: Question about cars built in California
Re: Great Timing
Interior parts
'87 442 Voltmeter
dimensions
Re: Chrome valve stem caps
Request from Live Auction Online
RE: 1966 Olds Cutlass 88 4-Door, 330 Eng, 67K miles
86 Cutlass Lug nuts
Idiot lights - troubleshooting
Re: Finding a body
Re:SS 1 for disc brakes.
Re: 86 Cutlass Lug nuts
Re: fan clutch working?
Re: dimensions
'68 4 SPEED & CONSOLE
86 Cutlass Rotors
research
Re: dimensions
Mime-Version: 1.0
Re: Question about cars built in California
Re: Why bother? (was: RE: driveshaft yoke/tranny ?)
Re: Chrome valve stem caps
Re: Chrome valve stem caps
Re: Oil Pressure / Oil Cooler
Re: DON'T SPEED ~~ L-O-N-G ~~
Re: Chrome valve stem caps
(shorter)Re: DON'T SPEED ~~ L-O-N-G ~~
City Fathers - long
Re: Chrome valve stem caps
Re: DON'T SPEED ~~ L-O-N-G ~~
Re: Chrome valve stem caps
Re: Chrome valve stem caps
UNBOUNCE: '83 98 Instrument Cluster
Re: Chrome valve stem caps
Greatlakes speedway
Re: Great Timing
Re: 86 Cutlass Lug nuts
hooker comp headers
Re: hooker comp headers
dumb question
Re: DON'T SPEED ~~ L-O-N-G ~~
Re: Chrome valve stem caps
Re: Idiot lights - troubleshooting
Re: DON'T SPEED - Post script
Re:
Re: City Fathers - long
could an alternator do thiswas electric problem?
Re: Idiot lights
Re: Idiot lights

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 21:36:45 EDT
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1966 Olds Cutlass 88 4-Door, 330 Eng, 67K miles

is this a cutlass or a delta 88 ????

what state are you located??? i'm in ga..
olds guy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 21:46:53 EDT
From: MARKSJ@aol.com
Subject: Chrome valve stem caps

Fellow Oldsmobilers...

This summer I have had to replace the chrome valve stem caps on the
convertible no less then half a dozen times.  I figure it's kids stealing them
for their bikes or other car buffs (hope not).  I tried tightening the caps
with a wrench to stop the little buggers but once again, another 4  are gone.
Cost isn't the issue, touching my baby and the time to get new ones is what
real bugs me.  Any suggestions?

Joel Marks
71 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible
81 Olds Cutlass Supreme Brougham
Burlington,  Ont. Canada
marksj@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 20:54:32 -0500
From: "James Moore" <panman638@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Option production numbers.

I would like to find the production numbers from the options that are on a
car. I have a 1972 4-4-2 with cruise, tilt wheel, power drivers seat, power
windows, Air, front disc brakes, dual gate, etc. Is there a way to find how
many cars were produced with these options?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 22:03:53 EDT
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Question about cars built in California

In a message dated 9/1/98 1:32:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
blaines@strata3d.com writes:

<<
 My '72 Supreme was built in Fremont, CA, but was originally sold here in St.
 George, UT.  It never had any emissions stuff on it.  I would assume that
 unless a car was intended for sale in CA, it wouldn't have had any emissions
 stuff on it.

 - >>
My 67 F-85 had CA emissions....air injector tubes and heads....it was sold in
Walnut creek CA.
Bernie  NJ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 22:03:00 EDT
From: SHELTERMEN@aol.com
Subject: Re: Great Timing

My heart goes out to you.  You seem to be taking it pretty well.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 22:07:38 EDT
From: SHELTERMEN@aol.com
Subject: Interior parts

Is there a company that specializes in olds interior parts?  I need to find a
rear deck lid for a '68 Delmont.  Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 22:08:55 -0400
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: '87 442 Voltmeter

Message text written by Brad
>Put the new "fully charged" (Saw it read 12.5 at the local Parts America)
battery in and damn if the voltmeter still won't register over 12. Now at
cruise it is barely in the OK zone and drops down to the yellow mark on the

guage @ stoplights.
<

You need to check the output of your alternator with a multimeter (or have
it checked).  Your alternator should be putting out 14.2-14.7 volts.  If it
is and your dash voltmeter is reading low - then the dahs meter is bad.  My
1987 442 always read 12-13 volts and would drop almost to the red with the
lights on.  Alternator putting out 14.3 volts so the dealer replaced it
under my extended warranty.  Now it reads like it should, but the oil
pressure gage reads 50-60 psi at anything above idle.  The voltemeter and
oil pressure gage comes as a pair.  Was about $65 at one time.


Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma, Ohio
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E & 4L60-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'96 DCM Impala SS (Naisso #1365)  '87 Olds Cutlass 442 (OCA #028505)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 22:09:53 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: dimensions

Wrote earlier about being a new member. Thanks everybody for the words of
encouragement.  In preparation for bringing my new 71 442 ragtop home, I need
to get a car cover and make sure I clean out enough space in my one car
garage. I'm booting my wife's Honda Prelude to make room. Can anyone give me
length and width of the car? Thanks,
Scott Parker
Westborough, MA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 22:12:31 EDT
From: Stakin@aol.com
Subject: Re: Chrome valve stem caps

Joel, you write:

<< This summer I have had to replace the chrome valve stem caps on the
 convertible no less then half a dozen times.  I figure it's kids stealing
them
 for their bikes or other car buffs (hope not).  I tried tightening the caps
 with a wrench to stop the little buggers but once again, another 4  are gone.
 Cost isn't the issue, touching my baby and the time to get new ones is what
 real bugs me.  Any suggestions?

 Joel Marks >>

I had the same problem awhile back,  I fixed the little buggers bye sitting
outside one night with a neighbor kids bb gun and a thermous of coffee.   The
teenage suspects pulled up a little after midnight and got quite a stinging
surprise <G>  Havnt lost a chromie since

Joe Stackman

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 19:20:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: dave@liveauctiononline.com
Subject: Request from Live Auction Online



Hi:
Can you please add our Antique & Automobilia Online Auction to your
links page please? If you require a reciprocal link, you can wait to list
our site and email me your website address to keep on file for when we have
a links page.I will place a ad below that has our name and URL.Thank you for
your time.

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Automobilia, Jewelry, Beanies, Dolls, Glass, Ceramics, Coins, Stamps &
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There is NO listing fee,you pay a small % when your item sells.

Please click on http://www.liveauctiononline.com for more details.



This is a 1 time mailing, you have already been removed from future mailings.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 22:29:57 -0400
From: "Harold E. Bower, Jr." <HaroldBower@compuserve.com>
Subject: RE: 1966 Olds Cutlass 88 4-Door, 330 Eng, 67K miles

It's definitely a Cutlass and we're in Pennsylvania.


- -----Original Message-----
From: INTERNET:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 1998 9:42 PM
To: INTERNET:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: 1966 Olds Cutlass 88 4-Door, 330 Eng, 67K miles


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Date:   Tue, 1 Sep 1998 21:36:45 EDT
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Subject: Re: 1966 Olds Cutlass 88 4-Door, 330 Eng, 67K miles
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is this a cutlass or a delta 88 ????

what state are you located??? i'm in ga..
olds guy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 21:38:12 -0500
From: "Ryan Hehn" <ryanh@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: 86 Cutlass Lug nuts

Hello,

I was wondering if anyone could tell me the size of lug nuts I should use on
my 86 Cutlass... I had some from my 81, but soon realized they were not the
same.  Apparently the 86's are metric?  Anyway, I want to buy some chrome
lug nuts to replace the capped ones that the car came with, and I need to
know the size.

Are they something like 1.25mm or 1.55mm X 12?

Thanks in advance,

Ryan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 21:46:47 -0500
From: Dan Williams <442much@plutonium.net>
Subject: Idiot lights - troubleshooting

I had some work done to my 68 and now the oil and temp idiot lights do
not come on when the car is started.  However, the Generator light does.
I am wondering how they work.  My guess is that the sensors in the
engine close and make a ground to the engine block.  If this is true,
can't I unplug the wires from the sensors and ground them to make them
come on when I turn the key?
- --
Dan Williams                            442Much@plutonium.net
Marion, IA                                     68 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 22:45:27 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: Finding a body

Andre Martin wrote:
>
> I am currently rebuilding a '79 olds 98 with a 403 in it.  I would like
> to find a lighter body to drop the engine into when I'm done but am not
> sure what it will fit into without alot of modifications to the engine
> compartment etc.  I would be greatful for any suggestions or insights
> you may have.  E-Mail me at andrerm@igs.net.

Anything an Olds 350 came in..

Cutlass is a lighter car.

Starfire would be a good one.
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 21:10:47 -0500
From: "Tony Eichholz" <eichholz@liljasper.com>
Subject: Re:SS 1 for disc brakes.

Hey Guys;
         Where is the most reasonable place or from whom would you talk to
to buy two wheels for my 67 that I put disc brakes on."W-machines"says the
part number is #810.I'll buy them new if forced,my other two that I'll keep
on the back are pretty nice.I would be interested in trading in two,but I
realize mine are not as popular as the two I need for the front.Please Reply
Tony

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 23:09:40 EDT
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: 86 Cutlass Lug nuts

In a message dated 9/1/98 10:36:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ryanh@mb.sympatico.ca writes:

<< I was wondering if anyone could tell me the size of lug nuts I should use
on
 my 86 Cutlass... I had some from my 81, but soon realized they were not the
 same.  Apparently the 86's are metric?  Anyway, I want to buy some chrome
 lug nuts to replace the capped ones that the car came with, and I need to
 know the size.

 Are they something like 1.25mm or 1.55mm X 12?

 Thanks in advance,
  >>

1.5 x 12mm.  i found this out after swapping a '87 rearend into my '78
cutlass.  so now i have 7/16" studs in front and the metrics in the back.
ugh, talk about a hard time.  i guess ill put some camaro 12" rotors on the
front now.
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 23:17:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: fan clutch working?

> The fan roars immediately upon being started and will roar for the first
> few blocks of driving.  I'm assuming this is normal, since my '98 Chevy

The manual states that this is normal since it takes some time to
distribute the silicon inside the clutch.  With one of my cars, it
religiously frees up at the same time/distance after starting,
approximately 1/2 a mile.  On another, the fan roars for only 10 seconds.

> clutch was definately bad.  But, I blocked off the radiator and inserted
> a temperature probe into the radiator itself, on the top with the top
> plate removed.  This, naturally, indicated the radiator temp instead of
> the air temp.  I ran the rad temp up to 200 and the fan never kicked

The 150 to 190 F range is for air temperature behind the radiator, not the
radiator itself.  I've observed that ~215 F coolant temperature will
result in about 150 F air temperature between the radiator and fan,
therefore I'm not surprised that your fan didn't kick in at 200 F radiator
temperature.  230 F coolant temperature shouldn't damage anything.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 23:17:03 EDT
From: RAC5419@aol.com
Subject: Re: dimensions

In a message dated 98-09-01 22:13:12 EDT, you write:

<< Wrote earlier about being a new member. Thanks everybody for the words of
 encouragement.  In preparation for bringing my new 71 442 ragtop home, I need
 to get a car cover and make sure I clean out enough space in my one car
 garage. I'm booting my wife's Honda Prelude to make room. Can anyone give me
 length and width of the car? Thanks, >>

According to my owners manual my 72 442 convertible is 203.6" long by 76.8"
wide. The 71 should be the same.

Dick Compton

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 23:22:02 EDT
From: MrExMt@aol.com
Subject: '68 4 SPEED & CONSOLE

Hi to all,
I just picked up a '68 muncie 4 speed tranny & console. The console is near
mint & the clutch was shot on the tranny. All came with linkage, bell housing,
drive shaft, etc.  My question is how much is it all worth & is the tranny any
good after the clutch goes out or is it in need of a rebuild? Any help is
appreciated.
Thank you,
Leigh Tenenholtz
'68 Cutlass S  Rag Top

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 23:25:04 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: 86 Cutlass Rotors

BIGJERMES@aol.com wrote:

> 1.5 x 12mm.  i found this out after swapping a '87 rearend into my '78
> cutlass.  so now i have 7/16" studs in front and the metrics in the back.
> ugh, talk about a hard time.  i guess ill put some camaro 12" rotors on the
> front now.

I have heard that the Caprice Rotors will fit on the Cutlass too..
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 23:32:18 -0400
From: Bill & Beth <dickinson@skow.net>
Subject: research

Ok here is my problem.
I would like to research its history and find the previous owners and
there story on the car. The problem I have is the guy that I bought it
from has moved. I know he bought the car in Massachusetts and from what
I understand they will not give out the names of the previous owners.
So does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks
Bill

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 20:42:22 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: dimensions

CPEARLPARK@aol.com wrote:

> Wrote earlier about being a new member. Thanks everybody for the words of
> encouragement.  In preparation for bringing my new 71 442 ragtop home, I need
> to get a car cover and make sure I clean out enough space in my one car
> garage. I'm booting my wife's Honda Prelude to make room. Can anyone give me
> length and width of the car? Thanks,
> Scott Parker
> Westborough, MA

Scott,
Your 71 4-4-2 is approx. 204" long and 80" wide.
My advise when shopping for a car cover is to stay away from the parts store
stuff.
I would suggest the California Car Cover Co.
http://www.calcarcover.com
They offer a wide range of custom fit covers in different materials.  They can
provide the material best suited for your climate, storage conditions, etc.
Generic car covers tend to either trap moisture between the paint and cover,
resulting in blistering paint.  Or they do such a poor of keeping dust off the
car that there is almost no point in even having a cover.  By spending a few
extra bucks you can get a cover that is best suited to your needs.  And in my
opinion, that is money well spent.

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 98 23:10:42 -0500
From: Jonathan Morris <jmorris@po.okc.cc.ok.us>
Subject: Mime-Version: 1.0

Hello

I have a '72 olds Cutlass Supreme and was wondering if anyone
knows of a company that makes headers for this vehicle.  I was
told by several header companies that they did not make headers
for Cutlass S and Supremes because the engine was moved from the
original location on these models to balance the weight of the
vehicle better for a smoother ride.  Is this really true?

If anyone has any information or suggestions please e-mail me at
jmorris@po.okc.cc.ok.us

Thanks,
Jon

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 20:55:22 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Question about cars built in California

my 69 442 was sold in sacremento ca was built in fremont and never had
anything but the vac adv bypass...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com <RCKTPWR@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, September 01, 1998 7:05 PM
Subject: Re: Question about cars built in California


>In a message dated 9/1/98 1:32:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>blaines@strata3d.com writes:
>
><<
> My '72 Supreme was built in Fremont, CA, but was originally sold here in
St.
> George, UT.  It never had any emissions stuff on it.  I would assume that
> unless a car was intended for sale in CA, it wouldn't have had any
emissions
> stuff on it.
>
> - >>
>My 67 F-85 had CA emissions....air injector tubes and heads....it was sold
in
>Walnut creek CA.
>Bernie  NJ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 20:57:39 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Why bother? (was: RE: driveshaft yoke/tranny ?)

wont last long but good performance while it does good luck...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: B. Sanders <blaines@strata3d.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, September 01, 1998 2:07 PM
Subject: Why bother? (was: RE: driveshaft yoke/tranny ?)


>
>
>> > I had the same problem when I put in a 400 trans. You are
>> better off just
>> > getting a new driveshaft made. I don't believe the driveshaft
>> company will
>> > take your existing shaft and lengthen it.
>
>I talked to the town tranny-master about getting a TH400 rebuilt once.  He
>got nosy and asked what I was putting it behind.  I told him a stock high
>output 455.  He asked why I wanted to use a TH400 when the TH350 could
>handle the power and took much less HP to turn. If that's the case, why
>bother putting in a TH400 and have to deal with getting the driveshaft
>shortened, etc?  When I get around to dropping in my 455, I'm just going to
>leave the TH350 in place to see how long it lasts...
>
>I'll stop rambling now.
>
>Blaine
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 00:58:27 EDT
From: LooseCanno@aol.com
Subject: Re: Chrome valve stem caps

absolutely the stupidest suggestion ever posted.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 12:15:07 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Chrome valve stem caps

Park the car inside a garage if possible or just remove them every night.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: MARKSJ@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Chrome valve stem caps
> Date: Tuesday, September 01, 1998 8:46 PM
>
> Fellow Oldsmobilers...
>
> This summer I have had to replace the chrome valve stem caps on the
> convertible no less then half a dozen times.  I figure it's kids stealing
them
> for their bikes or other car buffs (hope not).  I tried tightening the
caps
> with a wrench to stop the little buggers but once again, another 4  are
gone.
> Cost isn't the issue, touching my baby and the time to get new ones is
what
> real bugs me.  Any suggestions?
>
> Joel Marks
> 71 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible
> 81 Olds Cutlass Supreme Brougham
> Burlington,  Ont. Canada
> marksj@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 12:22:49 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure / Oil Cooler

Maybe if you try Castrol 20W-50. I heard the 455's like the heavier weight
oil especially if it is only driven in summer.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Oil Pressure / Oil Cooler
> Date: Tuesday, September 01, 1998 3:38 PM
>
> I've run this motor like this twice RT to Ohio and once RT to Michigan,
all the
> way from Wash,DC, plus alot of highway miles around here, 3000RPM the
whole
> way, 180 to 198 degree water temp, Castrol 10W-30.  It is a rebuilt motor
and
> uses a Melling HV pump.
>
> >How long have you run this pressure with your motor?(miles) It just that
I
> >have heard different people say different things about pressure. Some
say
> >40plus while cruising, others 50plus. Who to believe??
> >Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
> You know, if I remember right, the shop manual talks about 30-50 lbs
being
> acceptable, but I forget at what RPM.  The other thing to keep in mind is
that
> the oil pressure idiot light comes on at around 7 lbs.
>
> Todd Morris
> 71 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 23:28:42 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: DON'T SPEED ~~ L-O-N-G ~~

Gotta add my two cents in, here.  At the risk of sounding uncaring (which is
~very~ untrue, I really ~hate~ seeing people die on the roads, and I do
sympathize with the loss, for you, friends, and families of the victim, so 
don't
get me wrong here...)  Is speeding the issue?  I'm faced with a ~different~
scenario here, on a daily basis.  It's the people who ~don't~ speed here that
cause all the problems.  Being in Montana, you can fill in your own blanks 
here,
if you'd like, but I have to drive ten miles on the highway to work every
morning, and back every night.  The average speed on Montana highways has been
estimated around 72~75 mph.  Reasonable and prudent, by most standards.  ~BUT~
on the highway ~I~ drive every day, there's ~ALWAYS~ some a**hole going 45.
(And it's always some ~different~ a**hole than the day before...  Go figure)
Today, for example, I come up on a line of about a dozen cars, ~all~ trying to
pass some a**hole.  Going 45.  Who's at fault here, the dozen folks trying to 
go
fast, or the one putz who's too careless to realize he's causing an incredible
traffic hazzard?  To see three cars in the passing lane at the same time really
scares me, especially with the amount of oncoming traffic that road usually
has.  As the saying goes, it's an accident waiting to happen.  And it does,
occasionally, but suprisingly not as often as I'd figure.  I ~desparately~ want
to mount a large steel push bar on the front of the Toro, and go to town the
~right~ way (the only one getting knocked off the road ~ain't~ gonna be me!!!)
(Only a fantasy, I'm not from Lincoln...  :)  Although I about sh*t myself when
I saw a Delta 88 from Malta with an elaborate grill guard fabricated from 2"
square tubing.  I fell in love with it!!!  Although I figured it was deer
inspired -- yellow car with a brown front end, and a newly constructed grill
guard...  :)

But I digress.  To the point at hand, I don't feel right saying "don't speed."
Many people say "speed kills"  They're wrong.  Speed doesn't kill, stupidity
kills.  (This is where I risk sounding uncaring, and I refer again to 
disclaimer
above...)  99.999% of accidents are preventable, either by slowing down, paying
more attention, or knowing the conditions you are in.  That's the basis of
Montana's speed limit (Reasonable and prudent according to the conditions)  If
you're passing a car, you need to realise that the oncoming traffic is quite
likely going alot faster than you are, otherwise you wouldn't need to be 
passing
in the first place.  If you plan to travel at higher speeds, you damn well
better know the condition of your vehicle, and handle it accordingly (what the
military calls "pushing the envelope")  If you don't know what your limits are
(AND that of your car) you're begging for trouble.

So, ~my~ reaction to this whole incedent???  My heart goes out to ~all~ the
relatives and friends of victims of car crashes.  God knows I've lost ~way~ too
many friends due to stupidity.  It sucks.  With every loss, I say "no more!"
Which is not likely, if possible at all, unfortunately.  All you can do is
preach sanity and intelligence.  Yes, seatbelts save lives.  Many of my lost
friends would still be around today (in good health) had they taken that extra
moment to buckle up.  Consider this:  You're driving, and get struck by some
~other~ moron, and jars you loose.  You didn't even see him coming overthere, 
he
musta been flying!  Without a seatbelt on, you're thrown into the passenger
seat.  Dazed and without bearings, you find yourself suddenly f**ked.  With the
seatbelt on, you're at least still manning the brake pedal, and further tragedy
may be averted.  Of course, there's always the freak occurances, the car 
catches
fire, and you're unconscious, or plummets into a lake, and you're unconscious
and unable to unbuckle yourself.  That's a problem, but what would happen if 
you
~weren't~ buckled in?  Probably not much better, if you're unconscious.  Poor
example, as far as I'm concerned.  A friend his 4X4 years back, going probably
120+.  Part of the roll bar enterred the cab and bounced around for a while,
which did a number on one of the passengers.  Neither were belted in,
apparantly, but it wouldn't have matterred.  One killed instantly, the other
went ~through~ the floorboard and wound up pinned between the tire and frame up
front, somehow.  He was still alive in the morning when they found him, but he
didn't survive the extraction.  He would have been a vegatable, had he 
survived,
the roll bar smashed him in the head several times, I guess...

Chuck!  You just said speed doesn't kill.  What gives with that story???

Well, glad I asked.  :)  I said speed doesn't kill.  True.  Stupidity kills.
Driving a lifted 4X4 on a winding road known for deer at over 110mph is not
speeding.  It's plain stupidity.  And it saddens me that so many people suffer
from those lapses of intelligence.  Seems like alcohol is related in most of
'em, too.  Such a shame.  Stupidity kills.  Speed all you want, but ~KNOW YOUR
LIMITS!!!!!~  You ~know~ when you're going ~too~ fast, so don't push it.  Speed
all you want, but pay attention to your car's condition, to the road 
conditions,
and to the drivers around you.  If you're in a position where you can't see
traffic in front of you, slow down until you ~can~ see them.  Nothing's more
stressful than topping a Montana hill at 85 and having some a**hole pulling a
plow with his pickup, going 15 mph, with ~no~ flaggers front or rear, and 
having
traffic in the oncoming lane.  Who's at fault?  The one driving the normal 
speed
for the road, or the a**hole who won't take the time to set up a flag car 
behind
him?  Who cares, by the time you're in that position, you're trying to find 
the
safest part of the ditch...  That ~still~ falls under stupidity, I should have
slowed down until I ~knew~ the road ahead was clear.  All that happened there
was I almost lost a TV I was hauling (Magnavox console at the back of the van,
flew up and hit another TV.  No damage, but scared the $%!%$ out of me...)  
When
I got around that putz in the pickup, I sent him the casual Montana greeting
(aka, state bird) and went on my way.  I would not have gotten a ticket, had
patrols been in the area, and that farmer ~would~ have, but it doesn't matter,
an accident was nearly caused.

So, the ~moral~ of this whole saga???  Speed all you want, just ~PAY
ATTENTION!!!~  Be careful, and be prepared to deal with the stupidity of the
~other~ drivers on the road, and take care to not fall into that category.

I can feel safe in saying this, because I've done ~many~ stupid things in cars
in the past.  So many times I find myself looking back saying "God that was
~stupid~"  Much of that was high school and alcohol related.  I ~know~ your
friend is sitting in Heaven looking down and saying the exact same thing.
Please don't think I'm calling your friend stupid, cuz that's simply not the
case.  The smartest people in the world have done stupid things.  And its
tragically sad when those things can end a life.

Be careful, be safe, buckle up, speed if you want, but don't exceed your
limits!

Again, my condolances to you and your friend's family and friends.  I hate
seeing those avertable tragedies.

Also, remember that by far, the worst situation is ~living~ to find out that
your ~own~ stupidity cost the life of your best friend.  Keep that in mind.
(Never happened to me, but it ~did~ happen to a close girlfriend of mine, which
constitutes the Olds related part of this epic here...  81 Cutlass, fell asleep
at the wheel, and killed her best friend.  Both would have walked away, or at
least limped away) if they had their seat belts on.  Never verified, but that's
my own ~very strong~ opinion.  Too sad :(


- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 23:53:37 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Chrome valve stem caps

> Park the car inside a garage if possible or just remove them every night.

Well, I'd assume it'd be garaged, if possible.  I don't like the idea of
disassembling a beautiful car just to be able to keep it together...  Sounds
like an oxymoron to me.

> > Cost isn't the issue, touching my baby and the time to get new ones

How about doing something ~evil~ to your existing ones?  Like locktite'ing them
to the wheels, but having them ~barely~ threaded on, and having a pin solderred
on the inside that would deflate the tire when threaded on tightly.  Or loading
the inside threads with dye, and setting up a camcorder to get the kids in
action.  When time comes to identify the suspect kids, just unscrew their ~new~
chrome valvestem caps...

I've always liked the idea of a .22 caliber rifle with salt-loads.  A bird-shot
style shell, but with salt granules, instead of lead.  When shot, the pellots
break the skin, without ~normal~ shooting damage...  Just penetrates the skin,
and burns like hell.  How many kids are going to tell the cops, or even their
parents, what happened???  But they'll damn sure tell their friends...  Can't
get ballistics information out of the shell, since there ~is~ no shell...  
Don't
know about the legalities of it, though.  I'd assume it's ~not~
unfortunately...

OR!!!  How about ~this~???  Get some other rims, and drill the backsides for
another valvestem somehow.  Use a small tube in the tire, with ~it's~ valve
sticking out the normal location.  Fill the ~tube~ with mase, skunk scent, that
crap they allegedly put in college fire alarm vials...  Something that stinks
like a bastard, and ~won't~ wash off!!!  Remove the core of the valvestem on 
the
tube.  Fill the tube with the desired substance.  Loc-tite the valvestem cap,
and shove it on there ~tight.~  Wait an hour or so for the loctite to set.  
Fill
up the tire from the ~backside~ valvestem.  The pressure inside the tire will
work ~against~ the tube, and pressurise ~its~ contents.  When the kids show up,
it'd be cool to have a camcorder set up watching, just for America's Funniest
Home Video submissions...  When the kid ~finally~ manages to get the cap pried
off...  Hee hee...  He'll be in for one ~hell~ of a suprise.  And he ~won't~ be
back.  And he'll be ~easily~ identified...  :)
- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 02:08:59 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: (shorter)Re: DON'T SPEED ~~ L-O-N-G ~~

Oldsmagnet wrote:
>
[snip]
> 'em, too.  Such a shame.  Stupidity kills.  Speed all you want, but ~KNOW 
YOUR
> LIMITS!!!!!~  You ~know~ when you're going ~too~ fast, so don't push it.
Speed > all you want, but pay attention to your car's condition, to the road
conditions, > and to the drivers around you.  If you're in a position where you
can't see {snip}

Yes, been there done that. Was having fun one night not too long ago. Me
and 2 other guys were heading into town from one of their houses in the
country. He has a stroked Z28, and my other buddy has an older GMC 1500
series. Then, there was me in the Crapiece. The kid in the Z was having
a fun time toying with the kid in the truck, jumping by cars along side
him, then slowing down. Finally that game got old and the Z passed the
truck and stayed at the limit. I was behind the truck, stomped it,
kicked in the 4bbls and tried like crazy to q-jet by the vehicles. Well,
as you may know, that THING has no power, and my buddy in the truck
hammered his too, to see if he could stop me from passing. I already had
R's and momentum and I managed to get around him, but I'm still on the
left side of the road, and I'm watching that steep downgrade on the
shoulder. I knew that if I accidently hit that it could knock my car out
of control and probably flip me into the green fence that was a
cornfield. Anyway I was coming up on the Z, I guess he wasn't paying
attention until the last second because I did manage to pass him too.
But just before that, I saw the inevitable. The tire went off the
shoulder. I had to much adrenaline in my body to be scared, I was just
hoping that I was going to be able to control this thing after it shook
the wheel in my hands. Well, I made it. It really wasn't as bad as I
thought it was going to be, but after that I about sh*t my drawers. My
buddy in the truck saw it happen, but the kid in the Z had no clue. It
was a close one. I think it goes back to knowing you and your vehicles
limits, and picking good roads to screw around on. Like earlier in the
thread I talked about Sam, my buddy that hit the pole at school with his
Z. Maybe under normal circumstances, it wouldn't have happened, but it
was too hot, no tread, and false confidence in the limits of the car and
driver.

>
> Also, remember that by far, the worst situation is ~living~ to find out that
> your ~own~ stupidity cost the life of your best friend.  Keep that in mind.

Yes, I know of such a case. A friend of a friend I have just happened to
have a set of dealer keys to a L*ncoln Mark VIII. (stolen) On weekend
nights afetr the dealer closed, he'd go down and take the car for the
night. Well, one night he was drunk (don't know about the passenger),
but the road was wet and he slid off a curvy road and hit a pole. He
wasn't badly hurt, but it killed his buddy. He got 4-9 to serve in the
Kentucky penn.

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl)
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl)
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl)
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl)
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 02:03:15 EDT
From: GaryDW30@aol.com
Subject: City Fathers - long

Ah Yes, the busy bodies of city government. Also, the neighborhood do-gooders.
My last go around with them ended with an impromptu city council meeting in my
front yard.
It seems someone complained about my cars (7), business supplies (landscaping)
, etc., on my property.
I advised the zoning officer it would be in his best interest to bother
someone else.
Having no sense of humor he called the police saying I had threatened him.
Upon arriving the police seeing the claim was out of context tried to cool the
situation down. The zoning officer would have none of that and called the
mayor. So, being the mild mannered soul that I am (NOT) I grabbed my cell
phone and called my attorney, then called two friends of mine. One owns a
moving company, the other is a grading contractor. Upon hearing my plight all
said they would be right over. Shortly a moving van pulled up with a van right
behind. Six men came over and said they could start packing right away, I said
fine! Within 20 minutes the attorney was there and then we at turned to the
sound of an 18 wheeler coming down the street. It was Ted with his lowboy with
a D7 dozer on it! The zoning officer said what's going on, and I told him that
if the city wasn't happy with the property taxes I had been paying then
perhaps no one would mind if I just moved out and bulldozed my 120k house and
paid property taxes on a vacant lot. You should have seen the look on the
zoning officers face, and the slight grin on the cops face.
Well, my 442 (Olds content) and the other cars are still here, and everything
else, and no one bothers me anymore!! After all the officials had left, Ted
asked if I would have gone through with it. My attorney spoke up and said" you
haven't played poker with him have you"!
Gary

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 03:30:56 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: Chrome valve stem caps

loosecanno wrote
>absolutely the stupiest suggestion ever posted

I agree. Use a real gun.This from a screen name with cannon in it.
Try a paint ball gun. the balls hurt like hell, and the paint tastes awful.
Just another stupid suggestion.

Levin White
83 Cutlass Supreme
FE3X clone

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 03:40:55 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: DON'T SPEED ~~ L-O-N-G ~~

applause.
very well spoken Charley.
thank you for sharing that with us.
my sentiments exactly.

Kevin White

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 04:26:44 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Re: Chrome valve stem caps

My suggestion....Scrap the whole gun idea and wire the car with a
good 220 volt source..!! Not only will this deter the young thieves,
but it will cause quite a good light show for all the neighbors..!!
(Above post full of sarcasm)

I didn't realize this list had sickos..!!

Mike..............
********************************************************
> loosecanno wrote
> >absolutely the stupiest suggestion ever posted
>
> I agree. Use a real gun.This from a screen name with cannon in it.
> Try a paint ball gun. the balls hurt like hell, and the paint tastes awful.
> Just another stupid suggestion.
>
> Levin White
> 83 Cutlass Supreme
> FE3X clone




 "The best way to predict the future is to create it...."

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 04:44:01 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: Chrome valve stem caps

Shure, electrocution is a much better suggestion.
Wish I had thought of that.
Ever seen those smoke makers for your car alarm?
How about replacing the smoke with ?cyinide gas.
LOL.

Kevin White

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 06:48:26 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '83 98 Instrument Cluster

Not on the list, respond to eb105@aol.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	EB105@aol.com
Subject: parts

looking for a panel-instrument cluster #25044988 for a 1983 olds 98, please
respond to my email at eb105@aol.com, thank you

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 07:35:45 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Chrome valve stem caps

C-4 on the threads will do it. Peter
- -----Original Message-----
From: MARKSJ@aol.com <MARKSJ@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, September 01, 1998 9:49 PM
Subject: Chrome valve stem caps


>Fellow Oldsmobilers...
>
>This summer I have had to replace the chrome valve stem caps on the
>convertible no less then half a dozen times.  I figure it's kids stealing
them
>for their bikes or other car buffs (hope not).  I tried tightening the caps
>with a wrench to stop the little buggers but once again, another 4  are
gone.
>Cost isn't the issue, touching my baby and the time to get new ones is what
>real bugs me.  Any suggestions?
>
>Joel Marks
>71 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible
>81 Olds Cutlass Supreme Brougham
>Burlington,  Ont. Canada
>marksj@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 07:22:37 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Greatlakes speedway

Hopefully I will be going to Greatlakes speedway Union grove today to tune
my car. Any pointers?  This will be my first time racing my car at the
track. Never have I staged at the Christmas tree before, any pointer on that
too will be appreciated.

Thanks
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
17 Wins 13 Losses
======================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 08:26:02 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Great Timing

In a message dated 98-09-01 18:31:08 EDT, you write:

<< BOOOOM!
    You gessed it. A 16 yr old, backing out of the house across the street.
 "I'm so sorry." >>

Tom,
I wish I had your patience and understanding. I  probably would have blown a
fuse!
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 08:43:26 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: 86 Cutlass Lug nuts

In a message dated 98-09-01 22:36:55 EDT, you write:

<<  was wondering if anyone could tell me the size of lug nuts I should use on
 my 86 Cutlass... I had some from my 81, but soon realized they were not the
 same.  Apparently the 86's are metric?  Anyway, I want to buy some chrome
 lug nuts to replace the capped ones that the car came with, and I need to
 know the size.
  >>

Don't know where you're located but back east Pep boys has different size
bolts on display. Simply try your lugnut on each to see which fits.
Good luck,
Bruce

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 08:57:30 -0500
From: "TOM HAIRE" <rcd@infinet.com>
Subject: hooker comp headers

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDD64F.B83E6820
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

are hooker comp headers a good choice for my 68 442 with the original =
400ci engine?

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDD64F.B83E6820
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>are hooker comp headers a good =
choice for my 68=20
442 with the original 400ci engine?</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDD64F.B83E6820--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 09:17:02 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: hooker comp headers

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_00A1_01BDD652.7250C440
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I put them on my '75 455 Cutlass and was very satisfied. They're good =
STREET headers. I emphasize street because they are made from 14ga steel =
and are nearly as heavy as my original manifolds. BUT they will probably =
last forever, even with occasional scrape on the pavement. They fit =
flawlessly. As I understand it, people on this list have had an awful =
time with Hedman Headers. Be aware, you will have to drop the starter =
and oil filter housing to install them so order a gasket for the =
housing. I couldn't get one locally but the Olds dealer got me one for a =
couple of bucks. Dealers in larger cities will probably carry them in =
stock.
- -----Original Message-----
   =20
    are hooker comp headers a good choice for my 68 442 with the =
original 400ci engine?
   =20
   =20

- ------=_NextPart_000_00A1_01BDD652.7250C440
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT size=3D3>I put them on my '75 455 =
Cutlass and was=20
very satisfied. They're good STREET headers. I emphasize street because =
they are=20
made from 14ga steel and are nearly as heavy as my original manifolds. =
BUT they=20
will probably last forever, even with occasional scrape on the pavement. =
They=20
fit flawlessly. As I understand it, people on this list have had an =
awful time=20
with Hedman Headers. Be aware, you will have to drop the starter and oil =
filter=20
housing to install them so order a gasket for the housing. I couldn't =
get one=20
locally but the Olds dealer got me one for a couple of bucks. Dealers in =
larger=20
cities will probably carry them in stock.</FONT></FONT><FONT=20
size=3D3></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original=20
    Message-----</B><BR></FONT><BR>are hooker comp headers a good choice =
for my=20
    68 442 with the original 400ci=20
engine?<BR><BR>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_00A1_01BDD652.7250C440--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 09:15:05 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: dumb question

noticed a thread before that mentioned someone had a 455 with a 2bbl. Why
would anyone have that combo? would it be to save gas or something? Just
wondering....
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 09:36:52 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: DON'T SPEED ~~ L-O-N-G ~~

<soapbox=on>

Very well put, Charley.  I was on a "drive" with the Virginia Tech car club
last year and by "drive", I thought they were referring more to a cruise
than a WOT blast around the backroads of Montgomery and Roanoke Counties.  I
was last in line and never saw the rear ends of the cars, not because I
*couldn't* but because I *wouldn't*.  When I did finally catch up to two of
them (out of 5), they were on the side of the road, with 2 gashed tires and
major body damage.  The RX-7 driver stepped off the road and just shredded
his 2 right side tires.  While stopped, we heard on the CB that one of the
"rich-kid" members of the club had put his NSX off a cliff, about 1/2 mile
up the road.  We took a look and sure enough, the NSX was perched
precariously close to a creek bed full of rocks.  The soft soil of the
embankment saved him there (this is on Blacksburg Road, from the Catawba
Mtn. area for you SW VA dwellers).

Fortunately, there were no injuries in either incident.  The point is that
we were ALL speeding.  I was up to 70 or 80 on the pieces of unpainted
two-lane where I could actually see ahead.  The tire-gash incident happened
as the driver crested a hill and couldn't see sh*t on the other side of it
and the NSX deal happened on a 180-degree turn with an interior radius of
about 20 feet.  He said we was doing 25 mph.  I think more like 75, but
that's not the point.  Point is, they were both foolish that day.  The RX-7
driver didn't know the road before him and the NSX driver probably didn't
know his car wouldn't hold a gravel-covered corner @ 75 mph.  I'll point out
that my car didn't receive a scratch that day, but not because I wasn't
speeding.  Heaven knows I was speeding profusely many times that day, but
not over hills or around 180-degree corners, I was smart about where I had
fun on the road and where I didn't.

Of course, I'll use Charley's disclaimer here that this post isn't because I
don't care about deaths on the road.  Surely I do, but the reasons for those
deaths are commonly confused.

<soapbox=off>

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, September 02, 1998 1:29 AM
Subject: Re: DON'T SPEED ~~ L-O-N-G ~~


>Chuck!  You just said speed doesn't kill.  What gives with that story???
>
>Well, glad I asked.  :)  I said speed doesn't kill.  True.  Stupidity
kills.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 06:36:08 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Chrome valve stem caps

> This summer I have had to replace the chrome valve stem caps on
> the convertible no less then half a dozen times.  I figure it's
> kids stealing them for their bikes or other car buffs (hope not).

Ugh. Had the same problem with the Cutlass. The auto parts store
told me to just tighten with a wrench, as you did; I didn't have
any problems after that (was on my fourth set in a year by then),
but if that doesn't work, you either have to drag out the heavy
artillery and use LocTite or plumber's tape on the threads, or
just buy the caps in bulk and wait for the kids to get bored (or
caught). This too shall pass...

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 06:45:49 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Idiot lights - troubleshooting

> I am wondering how they work.  My guess is that the sensors in
> the engine close and make a ground to the engine block.

Yes.

> If this is true, can't I unplug the wires from the sensors and
> ground them to make them come on when I turn the key?

Yes. In addition, the TEMP light is switched on by the ignition
switch when you twist the key (almost) to the START position, as
a bulb proveout; the OIL light will come on by itself as soon as
the ignition is switched on since obviously there's no oil pressure
until the engine is started.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 09:54:48 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: DON'T SPEED - Post script

Oldsmagnet wrote:
Clipping a lot of stuff here...

> stressful than topping a Montana hill at 85 and having some a**hole pulling a
> plow with his pickup, going 15 mph, with ~no~ flaggers front or rear, and
having > traffic in the oncoming lane.  Who's at fault?

Point I have tried to stres enough to my teenage daughters here is that
no matter who has the right of way or who is correct, the results of the
crash will hurt just as much and be just as permanent if you are at
fault or the other party is at fault.  If you are injured or killed, the
result is same it's just  a matter of who is responsible financially.
Best idea is to use YOUR head and drive defensively and assume the other
guy/lady is a fool.  Whole lot easier to cuss someone out for being
stupid or wrong than it is to heal an injury (if you are lucky) or
worse.  And yes, I do think the good Lord looks out for fools and
idiots.  Otherwise why would so many DUIs walk away from a wreck they
cause and the innocent parties don't.  Everybody drive carefully please.
And KNOW the conditions of the road and your vehicle.  Just don't expect
that alone to be enough all the time.  Been there, done that, got the
T-shirt and DON'T want to go back for a repeat.  Besides you might be in
Ky and hit my Cutlass/Hurst or worse, one of my daughters.  VERY
UNPLEASANT THOUGHT!!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 09:55:38 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re:

Most regular headers will fit
Just a little messaging around one ear of the lower control arm.
I run hedman in my 70 supreme, only had to dimple it a bit.
So just a buy set for cutlass.  They will work

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)


- ----------
> From: Jonathan Morris <jmorris@po.okc.cc.ok.us>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:
> Date: Wednesday, September 02, 1998 12:10 AM
>
> Hello
>
> I have a '72 olds Cutlass Supreme and was wondering if anyone
> knows of a company that makes headers for this vehicle.  I was
> told by several header companies that they did not make headers
> for Cutlass S and Supremes because the engine was moved from the
> original location on these models to balance the weight of the
> vehicle better for a smoother ride.  Is this really true?
>
> If anyone has any information or suggestions please e-mail me at
> jmorris@po.okc.cc.ok.us
>
> Thanks,
> Jon
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 10:09:29 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: City Fathers - long

GaryDW30@aol.com wrote:

> Well, my 442 (Olds content) and the other cars are still here, and everything
> else, and no one bothers me anymore!! After all the officials had left, Ted
> asked if I would have gone through with it. My attorney spoke up and said" 
you
> haven't played poker with him have you"!

LOVE IT!!!!!!  I kept getting harassed by the city at my former
residence.  I think my next door neighbor took a hammer and broke the
windshield in my Hurst because when I asked him if he had seen anyone
messing around my car, he got this little half@$$ed grin on his face
that told me he either did it himself or was enjoying the heck out of
the event.  Unfortunately I didn't have a garage at the time and it had
to sit out in front of my house.  City would bother from time to time
about my "junk cars", etc, etc.  Well, I finally got enough of my act
together (and equity) to buy a much larger house on the other side of
town with two garages that would hold 5 cars.  Bought it, put them
inside and locked the garage doors.  Now anyone that wants free parts or
just to have a little vandalizing fun has to go to enough trouble for me
and my law firm, Smith and Wesson, to file a counter idea.  Basically
the don't mess over/with order is 1. my kids 2. my old cars 3. the rest
of my stuff.  Before anyone gets excited about the wife not being
mentioned here, I hope she is big enough to take care of herself.  If
not, I'm sure she knows how to get my attention if needed.  Enough
ranting on a Wednesday morning.  The world would be a lot better off if
everyone just minded their own business unless asked.  Soapbox mode off,
and slowly exiting stage left at a high rate of speed (if I EVER get one
of my Cutlai/Hurst redone).

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 10:30:15 EDT
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: could an alternator do thiswas electric problem?

i had the problem before with my idiot lights not coming on an the buzzer for
the light staying on even when the car is running but i took it out this
morning had my lights on and the radio when i stepped on the brake the radio
shut off and the light were gone when i took my foot off the brake floored it
the radio and light came back on brighter then normal but the car had no power
it took almost 20 seconds to reach 60 when normally its about half that i
assumed that part of that is the alternator even though its only one year old
and the battery is about 6 months old does anyone have any ideas    PLEASE
HELP   TIA      Rich

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 07:35:51 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Idiot lights

Hi all,

This talk of idiot lights got me thinking of an idea.  It may be stupid
(Loose Cannon might say :-),
however, here goes:

How much effort would it take to retrofit an idiot light such that leds
(blue, green, red) are used.
When the oil is low the blue one lights up, when optimal pressure the
green, and when too high
the red lights up.  It is probably not doable, however, at least those
of us who have idiot light setups
can have a better idea of what is going in our cars without having to
get a guage package.
Just my $0.02.  And no I don't give any change back! :-)

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 10:45:28 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Idiot lights

How much effort would it take to retrofit an idiot light such that leds
(blue, green, red) are used.
__________

While easy in concept, the implementation would be difficult and not cost
effective.  Your main problem is the sending unit.  The idiot light sender
is basically an on-off switch which grounds to the block, so you couldn't
sense more than two states.  You _could_ use the sender for gauges, which
is a variable resistance unit, and design some circuitry to pick off the
voltage and light the LEDs at specific states.  Unfortunately, by the time
you go this far, you might as well just get a factory (or aftermarket)
gauge pack.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1462
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