Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.Ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.Ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1498


oldsmobile-digest     Tuesday, September 22 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1498



[none]
Re: License plate choice
Re: White smoke (and tranny clicking noise)
RE: EGR Drill
Re: Windshield prices (was Windshield Antennas)
Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms
Re: Hurst Shifter For Sale
Re: g-body
UNBOUNCE: Re: High Rev's and W's
UNBOUNCE: Back to original -- engine compartment
Re: Hurst Shifter For Sale
UNBOUNCE: '75 H/O Info
Re: I'm stumped - Need the Olds GURU assistance
Re: Washington junk yards
Re: Washington junk yards
another oddball piston combo
RE: g-body
"Parts wanted ad".....REPLY small world
Re: White smoke
Changes....
Re: g-body
RE: Changes....
Re: White smoke (and tranny clicking noise)
Re: Oil Light Problem
Re: ADMIN: List Down, Now Back...
68 cowl info?
need 68 cowl info
Re: License plate choice
Re: Removing G-body from chassis
Re: Windshield prices (was Windshield Antennas)
Re: License plate choice
Re: UNBOUNCE: Re: High Rev's and W's
Re: License plate choice
checking valve timing and chain stretch without removing front cover
Re: Coil failure and MSD ?
Yet more on 400/425 blocks
Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines
Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines
Still working?
0-60 times
Buckets in '81 Delta
Re: g-body
Edelbrock heads (2nd run)
UNBOUNCE: cowl tag info?
Re: UNBOUNCE: G-Body Coil Springs
Re: License plate choice
Re: UNBOUNCE: '75 H/O Info
Re: ADMIN: List Down, Now Back...
Re: License plate choice
Re: 1975 olds 88 convertable parts
How much is reupholstering?
OCA Web Site Links Wanted
Re: Alternator or Battery
Re: License plate choice
Re: Oil Light Problem
Re: Oil Light Problem
Re: Ignition Problem - Need Advice
To shim or not to shim
Re: Coil failure and MSD ?
Wiper motor.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:10:42 -0500
From: brkman@juno.com (Daniel P. Berkman)
Subject: [none]

Dear sirs,
my friend asked if I could look up some info on the net for him
concerning his 1975 Hurst Olds W-30 model w/ a 455 engine.The car is
pearl white w/ gold stripes and is in very good condition. The serial #
on the car is 3J57T5M310001.
it is his understanding that the 0001 at the end of the s/n indicates
that this was the first off the line of the 23,000 produced in 1975. He
also understands that Hot Rod Magazine used this car as a demo with
spokesmodel Lina Vaughn. We'd appreciate any info that anyone might add.
Can anyone confirm that this is truly the history of this car? Any idea
of the value? Is anyone interested in purchasing it?
Thanks,
 Dan Berkman
brkman@juno.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 19:11:21 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: License plate choice

2 F A S T 4 U

so that when some punk in the 5.0 with $3000 wheels and $5000 paint
job/stereo has something to read when you kick his but in a 28 year old car.
Just kidding.  I like W30.  People that know what W30 really represents will
know the year, and for the others who are ignorant, who cares.  Wanted to
get a personalized plate myself but thought that $200 plate fee + $57 for
the regular fee was a little to much for me.  (this is in Alberta)

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/200r4/propane)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)

- -----Original Message-----
From: DKlauber@aol.com <DKlauber@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 6:31 PM
Subject: License plate choice


>Getting the car registered tomorrow.  Deciding on Classic Plates or
>Personalized?
>If personalized the choices that I thought of are:
>W30OLDS, W30 442, WTHIRTY, 1970W30, OLDSW30,  442 W30,  70 W30,or  just
W30.
>Car is a 1970 442 W-30 conv.  What do you think?  David OCA #30416
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:12:03 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: White smoke (and tranny clicking noise)

Joe,
Sure wouldn't be doing any burnout's with that smoke condition. Really hard
to tell, blue smoke and white smoke darn near look the same. Does it smell
smoky, like oil. Especially in puffs, sounds like one cyn. doing it. Sure
would run a cyn. leak test on it if you can get your hands on one. Dual
exhausts, at least tell which bank is causing the trouble. tranny sounds
like a front pump but I'm out of my element here. Need a good tranny man to
tell really.
                                              Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
67 442 all orig.
75 CS same way


- ---------
> From: JCRASH7@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: White smoke (and tranny clicking noise)
> Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 7:45 PM
>
>
> > Need more info, pure white smoke "water",
> >  cracked block or head. But unlikely, bluish white smoke, "oil",
cracked or
> >  busted ring, or piston, normally, but an exception to every rule.
>
> Cracked block?!  I hope not!  The smoke originated today when trying
another
> "burnout", this time with a friend watching holding a camera.  This time,
I
> couldn't get the car to do it, and I asked my friend if he saw anything,
he
> said there is smoke coming from your exhaust.  I put the car in park and
had a
> look for myself.  Pure white smoke coming out in puffs.
>
> Also, before I even moved the car, I put the car in "drive", and noticed
a
> clicking sound.  The sound was there in any gear, but went away at higher
> RPM's.
>
> Delta's really actin' funny lately...
>
> -------------------------
> Joe Sherbanenko
> jcrash7@aol.com
> http://members.tripod.com/~jcrash7
> -------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 21:17:16 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: EGR Drill

On Monday, September 21, 1998 9:02 PM, Dave Cullen
[SMTP:david.cullen@snet.net] wrote:
>
> Hope you had better luck than I did Jason.

Not really...I never got around to re-setting the timing.  Probably better
off...I don't have a timing light anyway.

> Motor still pings (or knocks, whatever is the correct term) at low
throttle.
> Sometimes.

I put a combo of high-test fuel and some carburetor/fuel injector cleaner
in on my trip back to school yesterday, so we'll see how she does during
the next few weeks.  I have a feeling that I'll be setting the timing next
month...

> BTW don't be intimidated by removing the carb - it's really simple. Just
> mark the vacuum hoses with masking tape so you can put them back where
they
> came from.

What's all included with this?  In other words, what's all connected to the
carb?  Vacuum hoses and throttle link.  Is there a transmission link, too
(TH-200-C)?

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:21:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Re: Windshield prices (was Windshield Antennas)

>'Having mine (71 4-4-2) done Monday. The price is $261, fully covered by
>insurance. 'No chips or cracks, just old and impossible to see through in the
>sun, but the insurance guy led me into explaining it as rock damage and
>covered it.

I think my deductable is about $200 so there wouldn't be much in it for me
and I would be worried (rightly or wrongly) about my rates going up.


Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:29:40 -0700
From: "noelle r murphy" <MURPH2@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BDE58D.CB6E6100
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

ford  FU!%ed OVER REDONE DODGE
- ------=_NextPart_000_01BDE58D.CB6E6100
Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF"><p><font size=3D2 =
color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Arial">ford &nbsp;FU!%ed OVER REDONE DODGE</p>
</font></body></html>
- ------=_NextPart_000_01BDE58D.CB6E6100--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 21:22:56 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: Hurst Shifter For Sale

Nathyn M. Knipe wrote:
>
> sorry guys.....selling the shifter out of Williamsport PA.......

Couple Q's...

What model?
How old?
What condition?

How much are YOU looking to get out of it?

- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 21:28:39 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: g-body

Ray Costanzo wrote:
>
> Do any other g-body owners have problems with their power widows rising
> very slowly?

Yes and no...  <G>  My driver's side goes up fairly easily, and
effortlessly...  The passenger side, when they are both forced up at the
same time, will end up being two inches short of the finishing point
compared to the driver's side...

On my buddy's 84 Hurst, his go up EXTREMELY slow...   Slow enough I am
trying to talk him into buying new motors.....

That's the only solution I can find, is that the motors we have are
getting old, and warn, and aren't performing like the used to...  <G>
So, TIME FOR NEW ONES!!!  heh heh...  Oh wait, I can't get new ones...
(chanting, 455, 455, 455, 455, 455)
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 22:29:59 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Re: High Rev's and W's

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: High Rev's and W's

Mike, Thanks for the info. I may have to look into those other rear ends as I
do a lot of highway. I can't really get anywhere from here without the
turnpike or an interstate...  "Been travelling quite a ways recently to the
shows (I definitely have the bug). The Hemmings show in Bennington was just
OK.  Way too many Beanie Babies at the swap. What's the attraction?  This
weekend in Ipswich, MA is what I'm told is the creme de la creme of
collector/exotics shows.

One more about the W's. I know I don't have a W-30 and the car is very low on
options, but I do have the scooped hood.  The thing is... it's steel, not
glass. I can't find any references to anything other than glass.  So where did
this hood come from?  The previous owner claimed he spent $1400 incl. shipping
to get it (used). What car did it come from??

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 22:31:06 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Back to original -- engine compartment

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Back to original -- engine compartment

Does anyone have (or know where to find) a photo of the way a 71 455 should
look in a 4-4-2?  I'd like to get back to original.  Currently have a chrome
open air cleaner ("Made in Taiwan" sticker on the bottom -YIKES), chrome valve
covers, yellow plug wires, etc.  I have a W-25 STEEL hood that I don't really
want to lose, but would like the right air cleaner system.  Also looking for a
sport steering wheel (Brothers "no" , Year One "no") and period front seat
belts (GM or Fisher logo, which?). Took 92 year old Grandma for a ride with
the top down on Sunday and she was looking for anything she could find to get
a grip on -- what a riot!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 21:32:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Nathyn M. Knipe" <nmknipe@mailbox.syr.edu>
Subject: Re: Hurst Shifter For Sale

it is a Hurst Quarter Stick for a TH350....it is like new....i have a new
cable and shifter knob for it and i have the aluminum cover for it
too....i bought it new about a year ago...but
then bought another one for the 700R4 i put into my car....and i would
like to see  $120 for it....negotiable....and again i am selling it from
Williamsport PA....

On Mon, 21 Sep 1998, Jerry Christopher wrote:

> Nathyn M. Knipe wrote:
> >
> > sorry guys.....selling the shifter out of Williamsport PA.......
>
> Couple Q's...
>
> What model?
> How old?
> What condition?
>
> How much are YOU looking to get out of it?
>
> --
>                 - Jerry Christopher -
> IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
>        HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 22:34:19 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '75 H/O Info

Not on the list, respond to brkman@juno.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	brkman@juno.com (Daniel P. Berkman)

Dear sirs,
my friend asked if I could look up some info on the net for him
concerning his 1975 Hurst Olds W-30 model w/ a 455 engine.The car is
pearl white w/ gold stripes and is in very good condition. The serial #
on the car is 3J57T5M310001.
it is his understanding that the 0001 at the end of the s/n indicates
that this was the first off the line of the 23,000 produced in 1975. He
also understands that Hot Rod Magazine used this car as a demo with
spokesmodel Lina Vaughn. We'd appreciate any info that anyone might add.
Can anyone confirm that this is truly the history of this car? Any idea
of the value? Is anyone interested in purchasing it?
Thanks,
 Dan Berkman
brkman@juno.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 21:45:27 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: I'm stumped - Need the Olds GURU assistance

>About two weeks ago I asked for your help regarding alternator questions.
The
>amperage guage would not go above O, and the generator light would only go
out
>if the engine was reved to about 3000 (amp guage still only goes to zero).


While your engine is running at 1500 rpm check the voltage between the
alernator output terminal and the battery positive post. It should be almost
zero difference (use a 1 volt scale).

If the alternator output is 1/2 volt or more higher (positive) than the
battery, suspect the wiring between the two - connections, fusible link,
etc.

If the voltage difference is near zero, the alt is just not putting out
enough. Since you replaced alt and regulator already, what's left? Wiring
between the two.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:55:01 -0700
From: "noelle r murphy" <MURPH2@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Washington junk yards

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BDE591.5656F540
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Brandon,

	Try All American In Vancouver,  Wa.  360-254-8850  or,
	
	Supercars Unlimited In Portland 503-244-8249
	
	When supposedly reputable auto body people couldn't find parts for my 
' 66
F-85 Cutlass,  these guys came through with one phone call.


				Hope this helps,

					Paul & Noelle
					'66 F-85 Cutlass Holiday Coupe
- ------=_NextPart_000_01BDE591.5656F540
Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF"><p><font size=3D2 =
color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Arial">Brandon,<br><br>&#009;Try All American =
In Vancouver, &nbsp;Wa. &nbsp;360-254-8850 &nbsp;or, =
&nbsp;<br>&#009;<br>&#009;Supercars Unlimited In Portland =
503-244-8249<br>&#009;<br>&#009;When supposedly reputable auto body =
people couldn't find parts for my ' 66 F-85 Cutlass, &nbsp;these guys =
came through with one phone =
call.<br><br><br>&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;Hope this =
helps,<br><br>&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;Paul &amp; =
Noelle<br>&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;'66 F-85 Cutlass Holiday =
Coupe</p>
</font></body></html>
- ------=_NextPart_000_01BDE591.5656F540--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 19:51:18 -0700
From: "Tim Wurtz" <tropical@micron.net>
Subject: Re: Washington junk yards

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_002B_01BDE599.33259560
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

You can try these guys in Boise, Idaho too......All Makes Auto Salvage=20
208-362-7111
    -----Original Message-----
    From: noelle r murphy <MURPH2@prodigy.net>
    To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
    Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 6:49 PM
    Subject: Re: Washington junk yards
   =20
   =20
    Brandon,
   =20
    Try All American In Vancouver,  Wa.  360-254-8850  or, =20
   =20
    Supercars Unlimited In Portland 503-244-8249
   =20
    When supposedly reputable auto body people couldn't find parts for =
my ' 66 F-85 Cutlass,  these guys came through with one phone call.
   =20
   =20
    Hope this helps,
   =20
    Paul & Noelle
    '66 F-85 Cutlass Holiday Coupe


- ------=_NextPart_000_002B_01BDE599.33259560
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>You can try these guys in Boise, =
Idaho=20
too......All Makes Auto Salvage </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>208-362-7111</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>noelle r murphy &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:MURPH2@prodigy.net">MURPH2@prodigy.net</A>&gt;<BR><B>To: =
</B><A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A> =
&lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Monday, September 21, 1998 6:49 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Re: =
Washington=20
    junk yards<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <P><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2>Brandon,<BR><BR>Try =
All American In=20
    Vancouver, &nbsp;Wa. &nbsp;360-254-8850 &nbsp;or, =
&nbsp;<BR><BR>Supercars=20
    Unlimited In Portland 503-244-8249<BR><BR>When supposedly reputable =
auto=20
    body people couldn't find parts for my ' 66 F-85 Cutlass, =
&nbsp;these guys=20
    came through with one phone call.<BR><BR><BR>Hope this =
helps,<BR><BR>Paul=20
    &amp; Noelle<BR>'66 F-85 Cutlass Holiday=20
Coupe</P></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_002B_01BDE599.33259560--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 21:52:15 -0400
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: another oddball piston combo

Hello all,
 All this piston chatter made me decide to post about another oddball
455 combo. Use the long 425 rods with the 455 crank, and a 455 pontiac
piston[4.151"std. bore]. The pontiac uses the same size pin as the olds,
making it an easy job. The 425 rod is .265" longer. This means the
compression distance needs to be .265" shorter. 1.740-.265 = 1.475". The
TRW L2359 pontiac piston has a comp distance of 1.497". This is 27 thou
to high, but most olds blocks need to be decked at least that much to
give "0" deck, for good quench. The L2359 has 6.7cc worth of notches.
Compared to the 14.5cc 2323 olds piston, this alone would raise
compression 6 points or so. The L2359 pontiac piston/pin is a bit
lighter than the L2323 olds, but it's less than 10%, so a rebalance is
not needed. The longer 425 rod would also be a bit easier on the
cylinder walls [1.63 rod-stroke ratio, compaired to the stock 6.735"rods
1.58 ratio].
Dave Brode
64 cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 22:02:48 -0400
From: "Francomm" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: g-body

<Snippety snip>

<Yes and no...  <G>  My driver's side goes up fairly easily, and
effortlessly...  The passenger side, when they are both forced up at the
same time, will end up being two inches short of the finishing point
compared to the driver's side...

On my buddy's 84 Hurst, his go up EXTREMELY slow...   Slow enough I am
trying to talk him into buying new motors.....

That's the only solution I can find
>

Not to mention all the years of dust mixing with the original track lift
assembly lube. I'm sure it pretty gummy by now slowing down the movement and
creating excessive resistance on the window drive motor. Pull the panels and
clean/relube the riser track.

Just my .02

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom

gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>
  
"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 22:34:14 EDT
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: "Parts wanted ad".....REPLY small world

In a message dated 9/19/98 12:48:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
krzy4evr@usit.net writes:

<<
 Found in the parts wanted ads..!!!  Thought someone might be able to help..!!


 50 Oldsmobile 88 - Need Bumpers (front and rear), Front Grill, Front
directional
 light assemblies (teardrop under headlight), Rear tail light assemblies (
including
 chrome strip on top of rear quarter panel). Looking for decent chrome as this
is
 not a show car. Richard St. George, 401-728-4904,

  >>
   When I saw this ad the other night I was so surprised as I meet  this guy
in 1974 when he bought this car and had the engine rebuilt. The shop that did
the work and they lost a part of his clutch linkage and I helped him locate
the part. We kept in touch  for a few year but he got married and lives
changed.
    He just pulled the car out of a garage and started on it again, I called
him and will be able to help with most of his needs, thanks to "KRZY4EVR" for
posting the notice


Everett    OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

E & G Automotive
1-401-435-7139
PO Box 16095
9 Newman Ave
Rumford, R.I. 02916

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 19:34:09 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: White smoke

Trany fluid burns white .
Before i got my TH350, my jetaway was leaking so bad through the
case near the front pump that it would spray fluid on the hot exhaust
when i really stood on the gas. Since i had short exhaust pipes ,exiting
before the rear wheels it look like engine smoke.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:01:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Changes....

Hi gang,
      Made some additions to my page(s), first one is the addition of
Peter Berusch and "Redzilla"...others in the works from the BOP
nats...posted some new pics on the "Topless" page...better motor
shot...better pic of the late Rally pac with the 120 speedo...now with
orange needles that look alot better.
               More to come on all pagesso keep checking back,
                        Sman
==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 22:16:29 -0500
From: "Tracy H. Shires" <twodogs@ou.edu>
Subject: Re: g-body

>And, does anyone know how to solve the classic g-body problem of the

>window going a bit off track and not sealing when you out it up while

>driving.  I know about opening the other window and equalizing pressure

>and all, but is there anything that can be tightened or realligned to

>alleviate this?

>

>Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass

>                        Bucks County, PA


I've been fighting this problem for years... first off, how's the outside
weatherstripping on the window rail? Mine was cracked and missing a few
segments. I replaced both sides and that fixed the driver's side problem. The
passanger side is a different story though. I haven't fixed it yet, but I have
traced the problem. It seems on my passenger door the door skin has come loose
on the very front top corner, about a 3 inches segment. When air starts to blow
through it flexes the door skin out just a little - and the window follows it
just enough so it misses the upper weatherstripping. I think If I get that
rewelded it'll be fine, but what a pain!


If I remember correctly there is no way to adjust the alignment in a manner 
that
would bring the glass in..


Good Luck, and I'd be interested to hear other ideas!




T. H. Shires				81 C/S/B Rckt 350

Denton, Tx				    3 Sticks

					

mailto:TwoDogs@ou.edu		


<bold>University of Oklahoma

</bold><italic><color><param>0000,0000,ffff</param>Aerospace
Engineering

</color><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param>Mechanical Engineering

</color></italic>


"If it was put together, it can be taken apart."

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 23:12:35 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: Changes....

On Monday, September 21, 1998 11:02 PM, S-MAN [SMTP:super442@yahoo.com] wrote:
>
> Hi gang,
>       Made some additions to my page(s), first one is the addition of
> Peter Berusch and "Redzilla"...others in the works from the BOP
> nats...posted some new pics on the "Topless" page...better motor
> shot...better pic of the late Rally pac with the 120 speedo...now with
> orange needles that look alot better.
>                More to come on all pagesso keep checking back,
>                         Sman

Nice lookin', John!  Especially like the "burple" 307!  Very one-of-a-kind!

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:24:01 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: White smoke (and tranny clicking noise)

Could be many things, but I wouldn't go right to a cracked block. In my many
experiences it is more likely a blown head gasket or in a more extreme end, a
warped head. This happened to my 62 at one time and it was a pain to trouble
shoot. As far as my experiences with dicifering between smoke. Put your bare
leg or hand at the exhaust pip. Feel the exhaust, if your hand ends up sooty,
it's oul. If there is condensation then it's water. Real easy and you don't
have to be a rocket scientist.

Ben
62 F-85 still for sale!!!!!
68 `C' heads for sale!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 23:12:24 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Light Problem

TimLeary97@aol.com wrote:

> The oil pressure light switch on my 64 Cutlass was leaking so I replaced it.
> The leak is fixed, but now the oil light won't go out.  the light was not lit
> with the old unit.  Did I miss something when I replaced the switch, is there
> some type of a reset procedure?  The engine is a 330, and I bought the new
> switch at NAPA.  I'm pretty sure the oil pressure is good.  The engine was
> rebuilt 15,000 miles ago, and the valve train is quiet.

      Tim,

    As you probably know, an oil pressure switch (sending unit) is just that, a
switch. It is on when there is no or low oil pressure, hence, the illuminated
light, and it is off when there is adequate oil pressure, hence, the light goes
out.  So, try this.  Turn on the ignition switch, but do not start the car.
Check to see that the light comes on.  Now, go pull the wire off the switch.
The light should now be off.  If it isn't, the wire that runs between the oil
pressure switch and the light is grounded somewhere.  In other words, you have 
a
short. If the light does go out when you pull the wire, the wiring is okay.  Go
ahead and reconnect it.  If you're sure your oil pressure is okay, suspect a 
bad
or incorrect oil pressure switch, even though it's new.  To be sure your oil
pressure is okay, install an oil pressure gauge. If you install a tee into the
block, you can install both the current oil pressure switch and oil pressure
gauge fitting.  This will, at least, let you know what your oil pressure is
really doing.  Finally, ask NAPA if they're sure they gave you the right part.
I mean, they did give you the sending unit for a LIGHT and not a GAUGE, right?

    Have fun,

    Thomas P. Smith
    1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 23:26:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: tommr@webtv.net (tom m)
Subject: Re: ADMIN: List Down, Now Back...

hello greg, take me off the olds list as soon as possible. thanks . tom
tommr@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 23:47:23 EDT
From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Subject: 68 cowl info?

I need Info on a 68 cowl tag.
06d 025947 150031
ST 68-34287  BF05531
TR 974 B80 GA
Thanks for your help!
Please e-mail me directly yorcoy@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 00:10:48 EDT
From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Subject: need 68 cowl info

Please help.
Cowl tag
06D 025947
ST 68-34287  BF05531
TR 974 B80  GA
Please e-mail me directly
yorcoy@aol.com
Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 00:20:23 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: License plate choice

W30OLDS, W30 442, WTHIRTY, 1970W30, OLDSW30,  442 W30,  70 W30,or  just
W30.
Car is a 1970 442 W-30 conv.  What do you think?  David OCA #30416
_____________

I think I'd put money on all of those already being taken in just about any
state.  When Virginia went from six letters to  seven on personalized
plates, I RAN down to the DMV and scored WTHIRTY for my 70.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 22:40:18 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Removing G-body from chassis

Ahh...  One thing the Oldsmagnet has ~not~ done yet...  (wow!)  Here are a few
tips that come to mind, though:

The G-Body Cutlass allegedly has 12 body mounts.  Six under the pass area, two
at very front, and four in trunk area, I believe.

You'll need to remove the gas tank, or at least disconnect the fuel line 
between
frame and tank.  If you leave it on, pay close attention to the filler tube on
removal, so it doesn't chew up the bumper/license plate area.

Check the exhaust system, aftermarket mods may have hangers on the body.

Pull the master cylinder, if power assisted, at the booster.

Disconnect the steering at the coupler or steering gear.

Disconnect the bulkhead wiring harness under the wiper motor.  It'll be a two
piece plug that seperates, one half for the engine, one half for the front
body.  Pull the engine harness free, and lay it around the intake, 
somewhere...

There's no simple plug for the computer items under the hood.  The O2 sensor,
M/C solenoid, TCC, etc, will need to be indidually unplugged, if so equipped.
Don't forget that ground strap on the driver's side head, to the firewall.

The radiator will come out with the body, so you'll want to unhook it, as well
as the heater hoses.  Don't forget the tranny cooler.

Don't forget the parking brake cable, either.  There's a clip under the 
driver's
seat area (roughly) that couples two cables.  It'll probably break when you
disconnect it.  Be pre-warned.  I'd imagene they're available.

If you'll be re-using the shell, keep the doors closed while removing, to add
some structural integrity.  Some people will fabricate braces between the door
hinge, striker plate, and rear seat belt mounts.  More advisable on ragtops and
T-top cars.
If you're ~not~ re-using the shell...   Umm...  yank away! :)

If you have cruise control, disconnect the speedo cable on the inlet side.
(That's the one heading down to the tranny.)  W/O cruise, disconnect speedo
cable at the tranny, and get that 10mm (?) bolt holding the cable/clip onto the
crossmember.

Disconnect the throttle cable, and stick up on the cowling area.

Disconnect the shift linkage at the column, and perhapes wire that up to the
exhaust???  Maybe.

Hmm...  I ~know~ I'm forgetting parts, especially since I've never done it, so
the ~best~ piece of advise I can give is this:
TAKE YOUR TIME!!!
Have extra viewers while lifting the body, to watch for any stretching parts.

Good luck!

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 00:22:45 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Windshield prices (was Windshield Antennas)

I think my deductable is about $200 so there wouldn't be much in it for me
and I would be worried (rightly or wrongly) about my rates going up.


Lloyd Ferguson
____________

Lloyd,  I don't know what state you live in, but most states have no
deductable on glass.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 21:34:20 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: License plate choice

how about UU30?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM <Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 9:33 PM
Subject: Re: License plate choice


>W30OLDS, W30 442, WTHIRTY, 1970W30, OLDSW30,  442 W30,  70 W30,or  just
>W30.
>Car is a 1970 442 W-30 conv.  What do you think?  David OCA #30416
>_____________
>
>I think I'd put money on all of those already being taken in just about any
>state.  When Virginia went from six letters to  seven on personalized
>plates, I RAN down to the DMV and scored WTHIRTY for my 70.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>70 W-30
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 21:37:02 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Re: High Rev's and W's

glass skin steel framework..kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 6:33 PM
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Re: High Rev's and W's


>
>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
>Subject: Re: High Rev's and W's
>
>Mike, Thanks for the info. I may have to look into those other rear ends as
I
>do a lot of highway. I can't really get anywhere from here without the
>turnpike or an interstate...  "Been travelling quite a ways recently to the
>shows (I definitely have the bug). The Hemmings show in Bennington was just
>OK.  Way too many Beanie Babies at the swap. What's the attraction?  This
>weekend in Ipswich, MA is what I'm told is the creme de la creme of
>collector/exotics shows.
>
>One more about the W's. I know I don't have a W-30 and the car is very low
on
>options, but I do have the scooped hood.  The thing is... it's steel, not
>glass. I can't find any references to anything other than glass.  So where
did
>this hood come from?  The previous owner claimed he spent $1400 incl.
shipping
>to get it (used). What car did it come from??
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 22:56:33 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: License plate choice

> how about UU30?

An Algebra professor could get

2(U-15)

Been ~quite~ a while, but as memory serves, this ~does~ equal

UU-30  ...uhh....  right?

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 22:01:48 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: checking valve timing and chain stretch without removing front cover

Found out how to check valve timing and/or timing chain stretch
WITHOUT removing the front cover today.

Remove the distributor cap, right valve cover and the #4 cyl rocker arms
and pedestal.
turn engine to TDC on the #4 cyl (rotor pionting to #4 and timing mark on
balancer lined
up with 0 on the pointer).

set up a dial gauge on the #4 intake push rod

Rotate the engine to TDC #1 cylinder

If the dial reads 185-190 thousands, your valve timing is right
If the dial reads 125-130 thousands, your valve timing is retarded or
your chain is streched
If the dial reads 250-255 thousands, your valve timing is to far advanced.


these #s are for stock engines and wouldn't work for engines
with aftermarket cams.

___
Remember, Traffic light timed for traffic moving at 35
are also timed for traffic moving at 70. :)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 22:10:25 -0700
From: mitzm@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: Coil failure and MSD ?

Thanks for the responses on my coil problems so far.

I've got the question in to MSD Tech support and will let y'all know what
they say.

The plugs are R45S gapped to 0.030 and are in good shape.  I am using the
condenser that came with the points.  The instructions make no mention of
not using a condenser.

The installation instructions essentially say to bypass the ignition
resistor wire and feed switched 12V directly to the + terminal of the coil.
Clearly, this results in a higher voltage (12 V instead of about 7 V IIRC)
to the coil during normal operation.   Seems like a smoking gun for for
coil failure but thats the way they say to hook it up.  i figured that the
higher coil voltage was part of the "benefit" of the MSD system and that
the coils could take it.  Maybe not.

hans in el segundo

Mitzm@mail.earthlink.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 01:08:51 EDT
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Yet more on 400/425 blocks

Ran my question about the 425 piston into the 400 'E' block by 'the rocket
scientist', Chris Witt, and he related seeing a cutaway 400 engine at MSU. He
recalled being amazed at the thickness of the cylinder--he measured 3/8".
Sounds like going .063 won't pose any problem there. Apparently JM also says
it's an OK deal.

I'm going ahead at this point and I'll let the list be the first to know if I
overheat...

Peter
CoupeKing

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 22:34:23 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines

Sorry - I was referring to the '68 G-block 400.  I've talked this motor
over quite a bit with the guy who's '67 was the centerfold in May in
Popular Hot Rodding, he had the pistons custom made that you referred to.
I am building mine basically stock.  The pivotal point with mine will be
how much it needs to be bored out.  So I'm just sort of getting a cross
reference to what options are avail. in that instance.

Thanks much -



Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible,  '72
Vista Cruiser, '80 GMC

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 01:43:56 EDT
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines

Lisa-
Have a core 'G' block motor, and all the major parts onterchange with the 455.
Hard to find pistons for because they're small-3.875". Much better to go with
a 455 block I've been told.
Toro radiator?
ps

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 23:27:38 -0700
From: "WI02 Rutschmann Brandon M. AO2" <BRutschm@vinson.navy.mil>
Subject: Still working?

I was just wondering if this is still working.  I havent heard from
anyone in a while.
Brandon
71 cutlass supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 00:41:25 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: 0-60 times

I am just curious what would you 455 owners out there consider to be a good
0-60 time for the 455.  Considering my 455 is in a '81 Delta 4-door with
TH400 and 3.23s, I get aprox 6.5-7.0 sec to 60mph (traction limited).  I
hate the cam that is in there now.  Tons of bottom end, no top end.  I think
that this time could be improved to 5.5-6.0 if I could only get a decent
launch (incl. using my converter (12-inch)) and be able to rev to 5500 RPM.
Just curious what other owners get in there cars.  As I recall, in a past
car-craft on the back where they had real rides, there was a cutlass with a
350 rocket and some other stuff doing 4.8sec. 0-60.  That must be nice.  I
would like high 5s or so.  Is is possible.  Thanks.  Igor

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/200r4/propane)
1981 Dodge Maxivan (360/727/4.10s)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 00:45:16 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Buckets in '81 Delta

Anyone know if a set of swivel bucket seats from a mid-70s Cutlass or Regal
will fit into my '81 Delta.  If so, then which of the consols from the
bone-yard could I get to fit my Delta.  I would like a consol shifter and
bukets if possible.  What would be involved in a colomn to consol
conversion.  Thanks.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/200r4/propane)
1981 Dodge Maxivan (360/727/4.10s)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 03:31:45 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: g-body

Hey Ray,

 Yeah my windows go slow too. Try a new motor from J.C. Whitney.
About $60 each. As far as the tightening goes check to see if your
door's inner and out panel have separated. My drivers side has and is causing
all sorts of chaos. Broken lock striker, broken bushings, broken
roller. Replaced pins and bushings Sunday. Now my window is acting up again.

Kevin White
83 CSB, FE3X clone
86 CS

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 09:51:26
From: <crl6420@online.no>
Subject: Edelbrock heads (2nd run)

Hello, here is a update on the olds heads...



<from edelbrock>

"We have the next production run of the olds heads
to be ready for shipping the end on the first -
week of Oct."

Chris RL, Norway

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 06:46:31 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: cowl tag info?

Not on the list, respond to Yorcoy@aol.com if you want to decode this...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Yorcoy@aol.com
Subject: 68 cowl info?

I need Info on a 68 cowl tag.
06d 025947 150031
ST 68-34287  BF05531
TR 974 B80 GA
Thanks for your help!
Please e-mail me directly yorcoy@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 06:53:03 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: G-Body Coil Springs

Try Eibach.

Kevin White

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 07:44:53 EDT
From: DKlauber@aol.com
Subject: Re: License plate choice

I only checked on 2, but both were available.  OLDSW30 is open, and W30 has
not been registered since 1996 and she said I could get it.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 07:53:31 EDT
From: DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: '75 H/O Info

In a message dated 98-09-21 21:37:39 EDT, you write:

<< 3J57T5M310001.  >>
as for the s/n in 1975 the last 6 numbers state the production starting at
100001, so your friends car was # 210,000
as for Hot Rod magazine,, i have no record of that,, i do have record of a
black 75 H/O used in Car Craft and a white one used in Cars

as for the value,, its really hard to say without knowing the condition of the
car,, the interior parts of the 75s are very rare and not reproduced so if
anythings missing,, you have to find another 75 H/O for parts,,, I have seen
them sell for anywhere from $500 to $10-$13,000 for mint

hope this helps,, Jeffrey Fieldsend, Board of Director, OCC- Oldsmobile
Cutlass Coupes 73-77
http://members.aol.com/cutlascoup/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 08:19:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: tommr@webtv.net (tom m)
Subject: Re: ADMIN: List Down, Now Back...

greg, i need to be off the list as soon as possible. my email is
overflowing. tom   tommr@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 08:20:23 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Re: License plate choice

Good ole New York state socks the hell out of you for vanity plates,
not just a one time charge. I had "THE442", but switched to
"Historical Plate". If you have these plates your exempt from the
new sniff test and the registration is only $23.00 a year.

Ron Haun
71 442W30
Orchard Park, NY

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 08:50:30 -0400
From: "James E. Brady III" <James.E.Brady.1@gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: 1975 olds 88 convertable parts

>I have a 1975 olds 88 convertable in  very good condition, however I =
>need a few parts for it, like a map light . The paint on my interior =
>door  and rear side panel  chrome decor strips is wearing off. is there =
>a way to repaint them, to give them the depth they used to have ?, My =
>plastic armrest housing for the front seat arm rest is cracked. is there =
>a place to get a new one or have it repaired ? I can also use a new  =
>drivers side turn signal lense . Is there any place that i can get these =
>parts. I have tried Fusiks's, auto parts, with no luck. I also tried =
>local junk yards. Maybee some one can direct me to another source !   =
>thanks.,   Please return E. Mail to GMONTOWSKI@PRODEGY.NET>  thanks.  =
>George M.=20
>
Try:
http://www.usapartssupply.com/
They supply parts for big Oldsmobiles and Cadillacs.  I have dealt with
them three times through the net and have no problems to report.

Jim Brady

1973 Delta 88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 08:14:00 -0500
From: "David Popadic" <davepop@execpc.com>
Subject: How much is reupholstering?

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_00C2_01BDE600.F4652620
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Can anyone give me a ball park figure on what I would expect to pay to =
have the interior on my 1967 Cutlass Convertible reupholstered?  How =
hard is it to do yourself?

Thanks in advance
Dave


ps  Big thanks to Kerry Kroger and Andrew C. Green, I got my heater =
blower working on high again.  Seems that a wire under the hood came =
loose?  Would have never thought to look there!

- ------=_NextPart_000_00C2_01BDE600.F4652620
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Can anyone give me a ball park figure on what I =
would expect=20
to pay to have the interior on my 1967 Cutlass Convertible =
reupholstered?&nbsp;=20
How hard is it to do yourself?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks in advance</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Dave</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>ps&nbsp; Big thanks to Kerry Kroger and Andrew C. =
Green, I got=20
my heater blower working on high again.&nbsp; Seems that a wire under =
the hood=20
came loose?&nbsp; Would have never thought to look=20
there!</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_00C2_01BDE600.F4652620--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 09:14:25 -0400
From: "Brad Nicholson" <brad442@erols.com>
Subject: OCA Web Site Links Wanted

OCA Members,
Double check the OCA Web Site @ http://www.oldsclub.org. If you want your
site listed, drop me a line.  My PC crashed last week and I lost all the
links I was going to add Oct 1, my apologies.  Now I'm running Win98 and
hopefully the FAT problems on my PC should be fixed, wish I could do the
same to the ol' BF Goodrich around me :-)
Brad Nicholson
OCA's WebGuy
brad442@erols.com
webguy@oldsclub.org

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 06:22:51 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator or Battery

>> Over the weekend my 94 Cav was going crazy again.
[...]
> I'm having the same problem with a 97 Grand Am company car.
> The tach will bury at 8k and the speedo will vary all over
> the map. The temp gauge and gas gauge are also invilved in
> the "schizoid dance".

Hmmm. If this spreads to Oldsmobiles, there will be cause for
concern.  :-)

These symptoms are sufficiently whacko that there might be a
service bulletin out for this (or maybe even a symptom chart
in a service manual). Maybe someone with access to a dealer
can look into this.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 06:38:24 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: License plate choice

> I only checked on 2, but both were available.  OLDSW30 is open,
> and W30 has not been registered since 1996 and she said I could
> get it.

Cool. Here in Illinois you have to mail in your requests and wait
to find out what's available. If you get OLDSW30, see if you get
to specify a place to put a space in (i.e. "OLDS W30" if it fits).

Only downside to this is if you ever change to another car, it has
to be another Olds W30 (Audience: "THAT'S A PROBLEM?") or the plate
is useless.

My favorite are the folks who get, for instance, a blue Z-28, then
pay extra to have personalized plates reading BLUE Z28. Duh.

- -- Andy, who got his I BYTE license plates on the evening news  :-)

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 06:43:46 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Light Problem

>The oil pressure light switch on my 64 Cutlass was leaking so I
> replaced it. The leak is fixed, but now the oil light won't go out.

You sure they didn't sell you a sending unit by mistake? The idiot
light switch should look practically identical to the old one; a
sending unit will probably be noticeably larger.

Removing the wire should make the warning light go out. If it does,
and you're absolutely sure you really _don't_ have a pressure
problem, they most likely sold you either a defective idiot light
switch or a pressure sending unit instead.

One other thought: you didn't go crazy with the plumber's tape and
accidently cover the open end of the switch with it, right?

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 09:38:57 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Light Problem

TimLeary97@aol.com wrote:

> The oil pressure light switch on my 64 Cutlass was leaking so I replaced it.
> The leak is fixed, but now the oil light won't go out.  the light was not lit
> with the old unit.  Did I miss something when I replaced the switch, is there
> some type of a reset procedure?  The engine is a 330, and I bought the new
> switch at NAPA.  I'm pretty sure the oil pressure is good.  The engine was
> rebuilt 15,000 miles ago, and the valve train is quiet.

      Tim,

    As you probably know, an oil pressure switch (sending unit) is just
that, a
switch. It is on when there is no or low oil pressure (light on)and it
is off when
there is adequate oil pressure(light goes off). So, try this.  Turn on
the ignition switch, but do not start the car. The light should be on.
Now, go pull the wire off
the switch.  The light should now be off.  If it isn't, the wire that
runs between the oil pressure switch and the light is grounded
somewhere. If the light does go out when you pull the wire, the wiring
is okay. Reconnect it. If you're sure your oil pressure is okay, suspect
a bad or incorrect oil pressure switch, even though it's new.  To be
sure your oil pressure is okay, install an oil pressure gauge. If you
install a tee into the block, you can install both the current oil
pressure switch and oil pressure gauge fitting.  This will, at least,
let you know what your oil pressure is
really doing.

    Finally, ask NAPA if they're sure they gave you the right part.  I
mean, they did give you the sending unit for a LIGHT and not a GAUGE,
right?  A sending unit for a gauge is a variable resistor and will
always allow some current to pass, in varying voltages, to the gauge. It
seems then, that if this were connected to the light, the light would
always be on, but it should vary in brightness with engine speed (oil
pressure).

    Have fun,

    Thomas P. Smith
    1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 09:55:51 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Ignition Problem - Need Advice

In a message dated 98-09-19 17:45:04 EDT, you write:

<< I got on the highway, with a rather heavy foot, drove a mile to my exit,
and as I decelerated for the ramp nopticed that the engine was running a
little rough.  When I got to the top of the ramp and made a stop, she was
running really rough.  I tried to keep her running by feathering the gas only
to succeed in flooding the engine.  >>

This actually sounds similar to my needle/seat contaminant problem, except I
have yet to flood the motor under those conditions.

I am curious to know why this can happen because of overwarm Holley fuel
bowls.

In short, I tend to agree that this could well be more carb than ignition
related.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 10:04:27 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: To shim or not to shim

It appears that I have a rear main leak in my 455 that has fouled my clutch.
I'm resigned to the fairly major job of removing the tranny, bell housing,
raising the engine, removing the oil pan, and replacing the rear main seal.
I've done this several years ago when I replaced an oil pump so its doable for
me but still a lot of work.  Anyway, I've always had somewhat low oil
pressure---35 lbs at hot cruise, 3000RPM, so I'm considering "shimming" the
pump, as has been mentioned on the list.  Apparently that will yield another 15
lbs or so of pressure.  35 lbs at hot cruise doesn't concern me too much but I
figure what the heck, as long as I'm there, mightaswell try to raise it.  So, 2
questions: what, exactly do you shim?  Its just not obvious looking at an
exploded diagram of the oil pump as found in the shop manual.  And, lastly, my
oil pump is a high volume Melling, which supposedly delivers 20-25% more than
stock.  Is there a risk of sucking the pan dry due to combining both high
volume and higher pressure?

Another approach would be to use the special oil pump spring kit that Mondello
sells. I'd guess that'd be simply replacing the spring already in the pump but
the same concern applies--high volume and high pressure leads to dry pan????

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 10:09:10 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Coil failure and MSD ?

mitzm@earthlink.net wrote:

> I am using the condenser that came with the points.  The instructions make no
> mention of
> not using a condenser.
>

    ALWAYS use the condenser with points. As the points separate, they will arc
badly without a condenser.  This will cause greatly accelerated point
wear/pitting.  No condenser, or a bad one, also will cause rough running and
may even cause hard starting.

> The installation instructions essentially say to bypass the ignition
> resistor wire and feed switched 12V directly to the + terminal of the coil.

    Please, don't take this wrong.  I'm really wondering if our instructions
agree.  The instructions I got with the MSD Blaster 2 coil specifically
indicate using a ballast resistor with the coil when using the MSD Blaster or
the MSD 5 ignitions.  Do yours indicate differently?

    Take Care

    Thomas P. Smith
    1971 Cutlass S 350

    "If at first you don't succeed, OVERBORE!"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 10:25:03 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Wiper motor.

Previously;

I ordered a remnufactured wiper motor for a 1965 4 4 2 for my 1965 Dynamic 88.

I did this based on finding no information in my manuals, Cutlass Assembly
manual, or dealer literature that indicated that a different wiper motor was
used on full size than on the F-85 models.

Got it last Thursday?
Not really sure, I was asleep at the time.

Bolted it on this morning (yesterday for you guys) with only a moderate amount
of fuss with that one nut that is specially designed to slip off of the bolt,
or out of your fingers and fall between fender and cowl, often never to be
seen again.

Naturally, this nut did not come with the wiper motor.
Too bad, I coulda used a spare for one of my four wiper motor cores.

(By the way if anyone has a source for these, please post it!)

What rather suprised me was that the 4 4 2 wiper motor came w/o a washerfluid
pump assembly (the black plastic housing with the fluid lines attached) which
incidentally was how I got started on this whole thing, but as usual, I
digress.

Not to worry, I have two washer pump assemblies, and one disassembled with
little hope of ever being properly reassembled, but then I believe it is from
a Buick.

Bolt one on. Fits fine.

After retrieving that nut from the bottom lip of the inne fender, which I
could *just* see under the car, I get the linkage attached to the motor.
Then the wiper motor bolts on.

Cool.

Finally.

Now Karl has high anxiety (youuuuuu win!), but continues on to turn key to
accessory position so power to motor, fetch wiper knob out of "catch-all" on
seat, place that over the fitting on the dash.

Engage.

Aaaaahhhh!

They work!
Wahoo!
No more cautious driving in the rain!
 (well, you know what I mean!)

And activate fluid pump!

Well results of that was disappointing, but it also worked!

So shut everything off, and go to close hood.
There is smoke coming from the wiper motor.

?????

It was coming from behind the electrical contacts for the wiper motor are. Not
the contacts for the washer pump. Back in there where the high speed resistor
is (whatever that is!)

Now this W.M. looks very out of place as it has what I decided must be a coat
of chrome paint covering it entirely, even the high speed resistor.

One of my non-functional wiper motors did have smoke coming from this area,
but did not do anything.

Greg R.?
Can you contact the reman guys and find out why this might be?

If the H. S. Resistor burns out during normal use, am I covered by a
replacement or something?

If anything, on my car that sucker is getting less than optimal current, so I
should NOT be overloading it.

AND I know that the wipers move freely as I moved them by hand before
installation.

Thanks all!

Greg?
To call you I have to stay up 'til 11am here.
Not sure I wanna do that.

But thanks, you have been great!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1498
*********************************
