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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1442


oldsmobile-digest      Saturday, August 22 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1442



Headline: "Bad little CIERA dust's 5.slow"
olds V6
Re: Racing gas
Worth of 85 442
Re: Worth of 85 442
2 bbl to 4 bbl Conversions; Whad'ya think?
Selling Olds ??
Re: 2 bbl to 4 bbl Conversions; Whad'ya think?
Re: farm auction Sat. / park light ? / need carb
Re: Striped carburetor intake bolt
Re: Volt meter
Re: 2 bbl to 4 bbl Conversions; Whad'ya think?
September - HOT ROD!!
Did it again tonight...
Parade
Re: Did it again tonight...
Re: 2 bbl to 4 bbl Conversions; Whad'ya think?
Re: Did it again tonight...
Re: Racing gas
Re: Selling Olds ??
Re: Did it again tonight...
Re: BLINKER IS NOT WORKING
Re: clicking??????
Operation Foxhunt
[none]
[none]
Re: Selling Olds ??  Taxing questions answer
Re:
Re: 2 bbl to 4 bbl Conversions; Whad'ya think?
Re: You inherit gray hair from children
Re: Did it again tonight...
"1950 Oldsmobile "6" Carburetor" ??
Re: olds V6
Front end suspension question
Re: Front end suspension question
milling heads
Re: clicking??????please help
Re: Selling Olds ??
Re: To the gearheads(SS1 wheels)
Re: milling heads
Brakes lesson
Re: Brakes lesson
Re: milling heads
455 blocks
Re: clicking??????please help
Re: 2 bbl to 4 bbl Conversions; Whad'ya think?
Re: Brakes lesson
obsessed with my cutlass
obsessed with my 67
Left overs for sale
Re: obsessed with my 67
Re: 455 blocks
Re: Left overs for sale
Motor Boo - Boo
Re: Left overs for sale
Holley Off-Idle was: 2 bbl to 4 bbl
Re: Left overs for sale
Re: Holley Off-Idle was: 2 bbl to 4 bbl
See My Diff Code!
Re: Car Transports
Re: 2 bbl to 4 bbl Conversions; Whad'ya think?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 15:34:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: JM <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Headline: "Bad little CIERA dust's 5.slow"

What a wonderful day,Saw a front wheel drive Ciera today with some
interesting mods.~Like can you say PROSTREET!!!This car was at a
redlight beside one of those "I'm better than you are" 5.slow
owners,and he made the mistake of doing the VROOM VROOM for the
ciera,to say the very least the only thing the 5.0 saw after the light
changed was the narrowed rear under the car(and the taillights):)
  Oh,life is SO good.




==
John McJunkin
mailto:super442@yahoo.com           ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass-- http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
frog442's 84-- http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 19:12:30 -0700
From: "John" <jpoynter@valunet.com>
Subject: olds V6

With all the talk about the unknown engine in the 65 olds, I"am looking for
a 2 barrel intake for a 64-66 V6 any one have one around or know where I
could get one. Thanks John E-mail is jpoynter@valunet.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 19:21:53 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Racing gas

Sam,

Not necessairily on that gas color.  Unocal76 usually has a pink-to-purple
color to it, VP Hydrocarbons fuel is red-to-pink, and Sunoco can be purple
colored.  A lot of the fuels are colored differently so track officials can
tell if you're running the required fuel under their rules (circle track
racing)

As for the smell..............can't say I've ever smelled alcohol in the
stuff, but then I try to avoid sniffing gas......................  :-)

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

P.S.: Watch the Coca-Cola Shootout on TNN Saturday and/or the Lund Look 275 on
Sunday, you might see me.  I'm on the Heartland Park Topeka Safety Crew for
both events.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 19:33:44 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Worth of 85 442

Ok, just asking here.  Ran across an honest to god, 85 442 for sale.
He's the second owner.  Has one repaint, gray/silver with gray
interior.  Plenty of preventive maintenance records, original paperwork,
yadda, yadda.  Painted AROUND the decals, however.  Hmmm.  In very good
to excellent condition.  No rust, no wrecks, frame is excellent.
Original equipment, i.e. wheels, air cleaner, air shocks, original
exhaust.  Everything seems intact. Tranny rebuilt in 95.  Runs very
strong and smooth for 109K miles.  I consider this a 20/20 car.  Looks
EXCELLENT from 20 feet at 20 miles per hour.  Trunk sticker checks out
with W42 and matches "9" engine code vin.  5A heads, original carb,
block.  Had new radiator in 96.  NO EVIDENCE of cowl tag ever being
there, which I was happy to know that my 85 wasn't the ONLY one that
didn't come with one.  Heavily optioned, everything except T-tops and
lamp monitor system.  It SEEMS like a good price at 3K.  Overall a very
clean and good looking car.  Any input?  The last time I even CONSIDERED
buying an 85 was almost 14 years ago, and then I paid over 5x this
price.  BLUE book retail is around 3500, which doesn't mean squat for a
car like this, but it's just a rough estimate.  I think I can get it for
less than the 3k price, however.  Am I crazy?  Or is this car really
worth it?  I value you guys and gals' opinions.

Just wondering....

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 20:09:57 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Worth of 85 442

Well, Mike, if everything is as nice as you describe, I'd say that even the
blue book price ($3500 as you quoted) would be worth it.  From your
descriptions, this *is* a good-to-excellent car.

Sounds good.  Lets us know what you decide to do.

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Rothe. <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, August 21, 1998 7:37 PM
Subject: Worth of 85 442


[ 442 description snip ]

>price.  BLUE book retail is around 3500, which doesn't mean squat for a
>car like this, but it's just a rough estimate.  I think I can get it for
>less than the 3k price, however.  Am I crazy?  Or is this car really
>worth it?  I value you guys and gals' opinions.
>
>Just wondering....
>
>Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 21:20:22 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: 2 bbl to 4 bbl Conversions; Whad'ya think?

Howdy All:

I'm a recent subscriber to this list and a not-so-recent convert from
Chevy to Oldsmobile.  When I acquired my 1971 Cutlass S from my
step-father for FREE a few years back, in the typical Chevy mindset I
had at the time, I treated it like a Chevelle and immediately set about
obtaining a four barrel intake and Holley to replace the stock Rochester
2GC setup.   Since then, I've noticed Olds people have a different
approach to life than many Chevy folks; there seems to be more of an
interest in originality.  Although Oldsmobile hi-po definitely exists,
it seems to be less of a code of ethic than it is for bow-tie folks.
Soooo, what do ya'll think?  Did I spoil my car?  Is there any real
respect for an original 2 bbl. car, or is it just another "dime-a-dozen"
item?  Thanks for the input.

Thomas P. Smith

1971 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 21:41:56 EDT
From: <DKlauber@aol.com>
Subject: Selling Olds ??

I am buying an Olds, but the seller recently became very concerned about the
taxes he will have to pay when he sells it.  Have you heard of this before?  I
might have to pay sales tax, but I think the seller will not.  It is a
restoration, so he has lots of money in the car, but gradual spending.  I am
giving him a lot more than he bought the car for, but I don't know how much he
"really" has in it after all the restoration costs.  I doubt he would have any
capital gain though.  Could he deduct his labor as a restoration cost?
Neither of us are dealers.  Thanks in advance David

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 21:41:16 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: 2 bbl to 4 bbl Conversions; Whad'ya think?

Hi Thomas.  First off, welcome to the list.  Secondly, certainly originality
has its place with any car enthusiast, and some more than others.  I think
there's a more important issue at play--what *you* want your car to be.  If
you want to "fit-in" with many Olds folks, you might consider putting a
stock setup back on--or you might not.  Many folks here (including myself to
some extent) have modified their cars to play towards their personal tastes.
The drag racers on the list certainly don't run stock 2-bbl 350's in their
Cutlasses, they'll drop in a warmed over 455 in a heartbeat.  Me, I can't
stand a wheezy-sounding exhaust and I love a muscular sound.  One of the
first things I did to my car was put on an Edelbrock dual exhaust setup.
And this is on a smogger 307 cui. V8 in a 1984 Cutlass.  Certainly, it
doesn't sound as mean as a built-up 455, but it suits my style fine.  If you
like to flip the air cleaner lid and listen for the secondaries to kick in,
by all means, keep the 4-bbl setup.  If you're more interested in a
stock-running car you can cruise and take to shows (with originality in
mind), you might consider reverting back to a 2-bbl.

It's all dependent on what your personal tastes are and what you plan to do
with it.

I hope this helps (at least a little)...

Jason Adcock
1984 Cutlass Calais Coupe
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Thomas P. Smith <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, August 21, 1998 9:31 PM
Subject: 2 bbl to 4 bbl Conversions; Whad'ya think?

>Soooo, what do ya'll think?  Did I spoil my car?  Is there any real
>respect for an original 2 bbl. car, or is it just another "dime-a-dozen"
>item?  Thanks for the input.
>
>Thomas P. Smith
>
>1971 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 23:10:02 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: farm auction Sat. / park light ? / need carb

On Fri, 21 Aug 1998 MFATZII@aol.com wrote:
> Next.    Found out that my park lights work when the switch is in the correct
> posistion.  But when I got to the "headlights on" posistion (knob out two
> clicks) the park lights go out.  Is this supposed to happen?  everything else
> works.(signals and shtuff)

Yep, that's normal. The park lights didn't stay on with the headlights
until '66 or so (anyone know exactly?)/ My '64 had the lights go out,
while my '68 stays on, so it's somewhere in there...

> Is there anything about a 1970 cutlass I should look for (shifter or guage
> wise, seats, rims whatever)  I haven't seen the cars so I don't even know if
> they are 442's  "S" or what.....I suppose if they are cheap enough I should
> jump on em' right?  always beautiful Olds people looking for parts.......

Ooooh Ooooh! I want a set of 14x7 SSI wheels, preferably the all-chrome
ones! Me! Me! ;-)

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 98 22:12:31 EDT
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: Striped carburetor intake bolt

At 06:47 AM 8/21/98 -0500, you wrote:
>I striped my carburetor intake bolt and was wondering how do I fix it.


  They make a repair kit for the carb inlet connection. Can be found at most
any decent parts store.


 Glenn
 '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 19:48:38 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Volt meter

At 08:35 AM 8/21/98 -0500, you wrote:
>I have a volt meter for my car but I don't know how to connect it.
>

just wire into any "ignition-hot" power source.
they are much easier to install than Ameters.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 19:43:17 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: 2 bbl to 4 bbl Conversions; Whad'ya think?

At 09:20 PM 8/21/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Howdy All:
>
>I'm a recent subscriber to this list and a not-so-recent convert from
>Chevy to Oldsmobile.  When I acquired my 1971 Cutlass S from my
>step-father for FREE a few years back, in the typical Chevy mindset I
>had at the time, I treated it like a Chevelle and immediately set about
>obtaining a four barrel intake and Holley to replace the stock Rochester
>2GC setup.   Since then, I've noticed Olds people have a different
>approach to life than many Chevy folks; there seems to be more of an
>interest in originality.  Although Oldsmobile hi-po definitely exists,
>it seems to be less of a code of ethic than it is for bow-tie folks.
>Soooo, what do ya'll think?  Did I spoil my car?

I'd have gone with the 4-barrel too.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 20:04:12 PDT
From: "Justin Brickey" <cutlass260@hotmail.com>
Subject: September - HOT ROD!!

Have ya'll seen the September HOT ROD yet? It has a buildup of the 455
with the Edelbrock heads. It is a good article. I particularly like the
picture of the blue 442 w-30 doing a burnout in the Power Tour section.

Justin B.

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 23:32:40 -0400
From: Jeffrey lane <bladernr@roava.net>
Subject: Did it again tonight...

I have discovered a real problem with my 67 Toronado...

whenever I come to a stop (at a stop light) the car seems to want to
smoke the tires, and accelerate at a very high rate of speed...  I think
the problem is that this car hasn't been fully appreciated in so long,
that she is just stretching, and geting her wind back... hehehe

more factually, and this is especially for Greg Pruett, I races a 72
Cutlass tonight...  It was a really nice Cutlass.  I dont think I could
have won (race was cut short by a car that pulled into my lane, how
inconsiderate) against a built motor like the one in the Cutlass, but my
completely stock, never rebuilt 425 kept up with him.  The Cutlass might
have won, but the Toro can definitely hold her own...  even at a weight
and power disadvantage...  I am yet amazed again.

By the way, Greg, do you know who owns the gold colored 72 Cutlass in
Salem??  the plates say 72 RCKET.  Just thought I'd ask.  the passenger
looked familiar, but I dont know where I know him from.

And also, do any of you know a way to gain a ittle more traction to
perhaps keep the tires from spinning so much at full throttle
takeoffs??  I am thinking tires that are a little wider (255's) would
help...  but that is the only idea I have...

take care...
- --
><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> 67 Toronado  ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><>

Jeffrey Lane, EMT-ST	ICQ#12362327	http://www.roava.net/~bladernr
		bladernr@roava.net 	EMTBoy9@aol.com


Sr. Sergeant, Equipment Officer		|	EMT-ST/Driver
Fort Lewis Rescue Squad, Inc.		|	United Ambulance Service
Salem, Virginia				|	Roanoke, Virginia

"Knowledge is power.  But power corrupts, and corruption is a sin, so if
you seek knowledge, you will burn in hell. . ."

- -----------------------------Carpe Noctum------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 20:10:20 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Parade

Well tomorrow's the big day.  In Multnomah (the area of Portland where
our shop is located),  they are having their annual Multnomah Day
Festival.  This year the director wanted some of the local merchants who
have "specialty" cars to participate in the parade.  They contacted us
wondering if we would be interested in having our "big 'ol blue station
wagon" as part of the parade.  Being the civic minded type of a guy I
am, how could I refuse?  (Actually, it may have had more to do with the
cute girl who asked me to participate).  So the wagon is going to be in
it's first parade (Oh boy!)  Just wish they would have offered free
tickets to the beer garden!  Oh, well.
Well, I'd better go and practice up on my parade wave.  Now how does
that go again.....


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 20:22:18 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Did it again tonight...

>And also, do any of you know a way to gain a ittle more traction to
>perhaps keep the tires from spinning so much at full throttle
>takeoffs??  I am thinking tires that are a little wider (255's) would
>help...  but that is the only idea I have...
>

Is there room to put another battery in the engine compartment?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 23:21:27 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 2 bbl to 4 bbl Conversions; Whad'ya think?

Although Oldsmobile hi-po definitely exists,
it seems to be less of a code of ethic than it is for bow-tie folks.
Soooo, what do ya'll think?  Did I spoil my car?  Is there any real
respect for an original 2 bbl. car, or is it just another "dime-a-dozen"
item?  Thanks for the input.

Thomas P. Smith
____________

Thomas, I think most people here will tell you that it's your car and you
should build it the way you want (short of turning into a bogus 442 and
trying to rip someone off when selling it).  You'll find those here who
appreciate a totally restored original car, those who prefer a car modified
to within an inch of its life, and many in between.  A few like myself are
fortunate enough to have several cars, some to be modified and some
original.

I will say that I doubt anyone here will criticize you for swapping on a
4bbl.  Frankly, it's almost mandatory to obtain an acceptable level of
performance.  Is there any real respect for an original 2bbl car?  Only
when that 2bbl is part of a factory tripower setup!  Otherwise, it's like
the three-on-the-tree cars - some configurations are rare for a reason:
undesireability.

Enjoy your Olds, and feel free to ask us any questions.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 23:59:41 -0400
From: Jeffrey lane <bladernr@roava.net>
Subject: Re: Did it again tonight...

?????  forgive my stupidity, but why??  and no...  there is a lot fo
room there, but not enough in one location for a second battery...

Bob Blanchard wrote:
>
> >And also, do any of you know a way to gain a ittle more traction to
> >perhaps keep the tires from spinning so much at full throttle
> >takeoffs??  I am thinking tires that are a little wider (255's) would
> >help...  but that is the only idea I have...
> >
>
> Is there room to put another battery in the engine compartment?

- --
><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> 67 Toronado  ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><>

Jeffrey Lane, EMT-ST	ICQ#12362327	http://www.roava.net/~bladernr
		bladernr@roava.net 	EMTBoy9@aol.com


Sr. Sergeant, Equipment Officer		|	EMT-ST/Driver
Fort Lewis Rescue Squad, Inc.		|	United Ambulance Service
Salem, Virginia				|	Roanoke, Virginia

"Knowledge is power.  But power corrupts, and corruption is a sin, so if
you seek knowledge, you will burn in hell. . ."

- -----------------------------Carpe Noctum------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 03:46:22 +0000
From: clarence wirtz <cw63nova@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Racing gas

Howell racing fuels are red to purple depending on the octane


At 07:21 PM 8/21/98 EDT, you wrote:
>Sam,
>
>Not necessairily on that gas color.  Unocal76 usually has a pink-to-purple
>color to it, VP Hydrocarbons fuel is red-to-pink, and Sunoco can be purple
>colored.  A lot of the fuels are colored differently so track officials can
>tell if you're running the required fuel under their rules (circle track
>racing)
>>
Clarence
86 Cutlass 4DR 307 O/D 2.56's
San Antonio

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 23:40:51 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Selling Olds ??

David,
Here in Pennsylvania the buyer pays the 6% sales tax when the title is
transferred. Nothing out of the sellers pocket. Both parties are also
supposed to be present at the notary here also, but I've found that if you
have a bill of sale or some kind of receipt most of the time they let you
slide. Save yourself some tax money and devalue the car. Tell em you paid a
couple hundred for it, a car that old and in poor condition doesn't book for
much. Just don't drive the car to where ever you are transferring the title.
Now that everyone knows I screw the state out of sales tax money I better
sign off!

Certain parts of Virginia tax your car with a personal property tax for so
many years. Not sure if they have to pay capital gains tax when the car is
sold or not?  How about it Jim or Joe?

Later,
Randy

> the seller recently became very concerned about the taxes he will have to
pay when he sells it.  Have you heard of this before?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 20:54:59 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Did it again tonight...

At 11:59 PM 8/21/98 -0400, you wrote:
>?????  forgive my stupidity, but why??  and no...  there is a lot fo
>room there, but not enough in one location for a second battery...

30-40 pounds just in front of each drive-wheel. Same reason
we RWD people put the battery in the trunk.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 00:09:37 EDT
From: <RAC5419@aol.com>
Subject: Re: BLINKER IS NOT WORKING

Dave wrote:
To all electrical brains:

My left front blinker is not working.  I've replaced (and tested) the
bulb.  The dash board light and the left rear blinker are working.

I just got her out of the body shop with complete new paint--original
Nordic blue, and the blinker is the last hurdle in order to get her
inspected here in Texas.
- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ------------------------------------------
I had a problem with the right parking light that I found a fix which may also
work for you. My blinker worked, but the parking light stayed off. After
replacing the bulb it still didn't work. I found that by squeezing the plastic
connector that connects the parking light/blinker assembly to the wiring
harness the light would stay on. So I disconnected the connector and bent the
male side (I think the one connected to the light assembly) in the direction
that would make it fit tighter on the female side that  had a slight bump on
it. I know this isn't a glamorous solution but it worked for me and it was
cheap. good luck.

Dick Compton

1972 442 Conv

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 21:28:44 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: clicking??????

Does it go away of you grab the steering column (the part that turns
when you shift gears) and torque it one way or the other?

If it's a clunking, lube the rubber bumper at the rear center of the
hood.  That thing ALWAYS makes noise.

Tom.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 00:59:24 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Operation Foxhunt

I know, I flop on motor ideas TOO much...  This one I CAN'T pass up!

I have a friend that was originally gonna sell me a 455 Block for $75
that needed honed (sat in a car, bare block, workable, but not great
looking)...  He decided tonight to give it to me for free, since he said
he got his money's worth outta it, and it will need machine chop care..

So here's my question(s)...

Since it is just a block, and crank (pistons in it, but not good) what
are recommendations for building the bolck back up...  I am looking for
"better than stock" but not "Trailer Queen" speed...

He's given a lot of input, but shakes his head when we start talking
price ($6,500 in the latest rebuild on his race 425 not including heads
or tranny).....

To end the story...  Custom tags are on order: FOXHUNT.

Wanted for lunch: 79-93 "I'm better than you" 5.Slow sitting in a Fox
Bodied Rustang.  Must be cooked thourghly when meal is completed.
Pontiac Ram-Air Firebird commercial, here we come...



- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 00:36:21 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: [none]

Howdy all

Good to be back.

I have a few question I like to throw out there.

1.  I seem to be finding a few 4 speed 455's.  Are these common for certain
years.  I seem to find a bunch of 73 455 with the 4 gear pilot hole.  Oh
and how disirable are they.

2. In the FAQ's I notice the statement that F5 anf F6 blocks are the better
blocks to use, do to a higher nickel content.  In all books I have read
they say that the F0 (very rare) to F5 are the better blocks to use for
performance.  I recall that the lower the number the better the block, with
the F10 being the worst.  Can anyone clarify the FAQ statement.  I hope
what I have read was correct or else I have stock piled a bunch of not so
good blocks (F1's and F2's)

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 00:36:21 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: [none]

Howdy all

Good to be back.

I have a few question I like to throw out there.

1.  I seem to be finding a few 4 speed 455's.  Are these common for certain
years.  I seem to find a bunch of 73 455 with the 4 gear pilot hole.  Oh
and how disirable are they.

2. In the FAQ's I notice the statement that F5 anf F6 blocks are the better
blocks to use, do to a higher nickel content.  In all books I have read
they say that the F0 (very rare) to F5 are the better blocks to use for
performance.  I recall that the lower the number the better the block, with
the F10 being the worst.  Can anyone clarify the FAQ statement.  I hope
what I have read was correct or else I have stock piled a bunch of not so
good blocks (F1's and F2's)

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 02:03:13 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Selling Olds ??  Taxing questions answer

DKlauber@aol.com wrote:
>
> I am buying an Olds, but the seller recently became very concerned about the
> taxes he will have to pay when he sells it.  Have you heard of this before?

Yep, the government CAN get its' hands in your pockets from time to
time.  I'll try to answer your questions as you have asked them.

> might have to pay sales tax, but I think the seller will not.

I can speak only for Ky on the sales tax issue, but I believe the
concept is the same pretty much every where.  Either the buyer or the
seller pays a transfer fee to the state at the time ownership is
transferred based on the book value of the vehicle.  At some point the
car will obviously no longer be in a book as such and a certain minimum
value is assessed and taxed.  When I transferred my Hurst (not a cherry
by any stretch as it needs a total resto) in 1987 they taxed me on
almost nothing as I paid $7.50 at a 5% rate.  Still pay almost nothing
on property tax for it.  I'm not complaining only explaining how it
works here.  Obviously I didn't ask any UNNECESSARY questions.  If you
call the place that does the transferring and tell them the type and/or
VIN and/or license number they can tell you how much the transfer will
be.  If you transfer to a different state they might require an
inspection by the police department (a standard practice to check VINs,
mileage, etc) and/or the property valuation people.  In that case the
assessed value may or may not be raised.  I would not, however, tell
them how much you are paying for the vehicle unless specifically asked.
As for who pays the transfer tax, the state doesn't give a crap as long
as SOMEONE pays it.

> restoration, so he has lots of money in the car, but gradual spending.  I am
> giving him a lot more than he bought the car for, but I don't know how much 
he
> "really" has in it after all the restoration costs.  I doubt he would have 
any
> capital gain though.  Could he deduct his labor as a restoration cost?
> Neither of us are dealers.

Ah yes, the income tax angle.  The part as to whether the sales is
subject to taxation and/or capital gains treatment depends on several
things.  First of all, since the seller is NOT a dealer,  it is treated
as a casual or infrequent sale not made in the transaction of a
business.  This means the sale of the car COULD trigger an income tax
problem only if the car is sold for more than what the seller has in it.
The cost of one's labor is NOT part of the seller's basis in the car,
but all monies put into the restoration is.  Items that can be included
as part of the cost include the original purchase of the car, parts
purchased or traded for with property that was purchased by the seller,
the cost of locating and getting the parts (including phone bills,
mileage at the rate permissible for that year,etc) and in most instances
the interest paid on the car and parts if financed.  This would be
generally be considered capitalized cost and added to the cars basis.  I
would be comfortable in adding whatever taxes were paid on the car over
the years if they WERE NOT deducted on your returns in the years they
were paid.  This part could be considered one of those 'gray' areas but
somewhat defensible in the event of an audit.  You could also add the
cost of any labor you paid to restore the car, but generally not to
maintain it AFTER it has been restored (or parts either for that
matter).  For example if you had to install new points to get it running
they would be part of the basis.  If you installed them at a later date
to improve the performance that would NOT be includable.  At the time of
sale you could deduct the cost of preparing the vehicle for sale and
costs of the sale (advertising, broker fees, etc) from the sales price.
This in effect reduces any potential profit realized.  At this point you
take the net sales price and subtract the total cost to see if you
indeed had a profit or a loss.  If you had a profit then the length of
time the car was owned before being sold will determine if the sale is
capital gains or ordinary income.  Generally if you have a loss, the
loss is not deductible because the IRS views it as a 'hobby' loss unless
it is an investment in which case it MIGHT be included on the tax
returns.  Caution needs to be taken before deducting any loss (unless
you are a dealer) because they take a dim view of their 'customers'
wanting the govt to share in the loss realized.  So make sure you can
defend your position on this part.  If you've gotten the impression the
IRS taxes any hobby gains and disallows any hobby losses, they you got
the general idea a lot quicker than some people do.  It doesn't sound
quite fair, but that is how it works in a simplified overview.
Different circumstances can give you different results, so you should
consult someone you trust in this field.

FWIW, yes I am a tax accountant in central KY and have been since the
mid 1970's.  Not a real fun field, but a necessary one from time to
time.  Good luck on the potential buy and if you sell, do your homework
first.  If this guy is like most of us, by the time the car was to the
point that satisfied him he already had more money in it than he will
get out of it.  The key to this whole deal is to maintain records that
document your basis as you go and you will save yourself a lot of time
and energy later.  Even using a shoebox (did I REALLY say that?) or file
folder to throw receipts in is a pretty decent idea.

Good luck!  Please understand the above is a simplified overview in
reply to your questions from a distance.  Check with your local tax
person to get more specific advise for your area.  I'm just trying to
give you some things to think about and discuss if the need arises.  I
would be happy to try and help anyone in this area, but I would suspect
Greg would rather the questions be sent direct instead of to the list.
Feels good to be able to give something back for once.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 02:48:16 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re:

In a message dated 98-08-22 01:25:34 EDT, you write:

<< 2. In the FAQ's I notice the statement that F5 anf F6 blocks are the better
blocks to use, do to a higher nickel content. In all books I have read they
say that the F0 (very rare) to F5 are the better blocks to use for
performance. I recall that the lower the number the better the block, with the
F10 being the worst. Can anyone clarify the FAQ statement. I hope what I have
read was correct or else I have stock piled a bunch of not so good blocks
(F1's and F2's).
  Robert Schinkel docbob@caninet.com >>

I believe that the prople to contact are A) Chris B. Witt as I think that he
was the originator of that info for the FAQ and B) The Oldsmobile Historical
center (or whatever they are called)

I would be interested in the results as the only F6 blocks that I have
seen/heard about were from 1967, and I have NEVER seen an FO block.

Greg Rollins?

KA
(Still w/o SOM)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 03:17:55 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 2 bbl to 4 bbl Conversions; Whad'ya think?

In a message dated 98-08-21 21:32:31 EDT, you write:

<<  I treated it like a Chevelle and immediately set about obtaining a four
barrel intake and Holley to replace the stock Rochester 2GC setup. >>

Im curious as to how you like the Holley.

Does it bog down when you give gas from idle?

You see, my understanding is that while Rochester has a pretty good off-idle
system, Holley lacks one.

I was planning on going from 2GC to Holley O-1850-3, but I would prefer some
off-idle support from the carb. In short, I am on the verge of junking the
whole Holley project.
(Which may be just as well, because I could spend $100 on it easy just preping
it for my 425.)

KA

(SOM stil in shop...)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 03:56:27 EDT
From: <KWhite5590@aol.com>
Subject: Re: You inherit gray hair from children

One night my daughter and I got home,and the garage door wouldn't open
with the opener.I got out and was going thru the other door to open it, when
my then 6 yr old daughter wanting to help daddy out, jumped in the driver seat
and put the Cutlass in drive.Right thru the garage door.It scared the dickens
out of the both of us.
She was o.k. but I noticed a few gray hairs.Now I shave the head clean,so I
don't
have to see'em.

Kevin White
83'Cutlass Supreme
FE3X clone

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 07:23:16 -0400
From: Jeffrey lane <bladernr@roava.net>
Subject: Re: Did it again tonight...

Ahhhh....  damn...  I didnt think about batteries weiging that much....
(slaps self)  oh well...

Bob Blanchard wrote:
>
> At 11:59 PM 8/21/98 -0400, you wrote:
> >?????  forgive my stupidity, but why??  and no...  there is a lot fo
> >room there, but not enough in one location for a second battery...
>
> 30-40 pounds just in front of each drive-wheel. Same reason
> we RWD people put the battery in the trunk.

- --
><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> 67 Toronado  ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><>

Jeffrey Lane, EMT-ST	ICQ#12362327	http://www.roava.net/~bladernr
		bladernr@roava.net 	EMTBoy9@aol.com


Sr. Sergeant, Equipment Officer		|	EMT-ST/Driver
Fort Lewis Rescue Squad, Inc.		|	United Ambulance Service
Salem, Virginia				|	Roanoke, Virginia

"Knowledge is power.  But power corrupts, and corruption is a sin, so if
you seek knowledge, you will burn in hell. . ."

- -----------------------------Carpe Noctum------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 07:40:28 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: "1950 Oldsmobile "6" Carburetor" ??

Time to tap the great knowledge base;

A recent communication went thus;

[Sir, regarding:] 1950 OLDSMOBILE "6" CARBURETOR
 >
 > I am not sure what is meant here.
 > What does the "6" stand for?
 >
 > Is this a Rochester carburetor?
 > Is this a carburetor for a V6 engine?

<<Karl,   That it the way it reads on the side of thebox and it means
carburetor is for a 6 cylinder Oldsmobile. Thanks for asking. Bob >>

[Rmmmmmmm.]

Can anyone verify this?
Is this a Rochester carb?

My personal information is that an original 1950 Rochester should be Model
"AA", Carburetor # 7002570.
(And yeah, only one Roch listed for 1950)

Thanks

K

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 07:50:01 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: olds V6

In a message dated 98-08-21 19:17:38 EDT, you write:

<< With all the talk about the unknown engine in the 65 olds, I"am looking for
 a 2 barrel intake for a 64-66 V6 any one have one around or know where I
 could get one. Thanks John E-mail is jpoynter@valunet.com >>

Bear in mind that as it is a buick engine, a buick intake manifold should fit
like a glove.
I wonder if there was a pontiac version too?
Too tired.
Karl look it up tomorrow, I mean today.

K

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 08:19:22 -0400
From: "Kyle Tilbe" <kftilbe@gte.net>
Subject: Front end suspension question

I have a 71-442 with air that I purchased a few months ago and where the
front springs sit in the bottom of the control arms there's a aluminum
spacer that's about 2" thick.  The car seems to sit to high in the front but
I don't have the bumper or air conditioning unit back on it yet. What's the
spacer for and did this come stock from the factory ?

Thanks,  Kyle

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 09:02:04 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Front end suspension question

The aluminum pieces are spacers.  Used to lift a sagging front end or to
over lift a good front end.
Either you  front springs need to be replaced or the lifts are there
unnecessary.  So just remove them if you want.  Its not a factory option,
just an add on.


Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)


- ----------
> From: Kyle Tilbe <kftilbe@gte.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Front end suspension question
> Date: Saturday, August 22, 1998 8:19 AM
>
> I have a 71-442 with air that I purchased a few months ago and where the
> front springs sit in the bottom of the control arms there's a aluminum
> spacer that's about 2" thick.  The car seems to sit to high in the front
but
> I don't have the bumper or air conditioning unit back on it yet. What's
the
> spacer for and did this come stock from the factory ?
>
> Thanks,  Kyle
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 09:03:03 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: milling heads

 I have a set of edelbrock alu. heads.I sent them to a machine shop to
mill down to get 69 to 70 cc.chamber. In the meantime I emailed edl teck
and they said .006 tho per cc. so 77 cc to 69 70 cc would be 42 and 48
tho. My shop said they took 30 off one 33 off the other and are telling
me they are now between 69 and 70 cc. do any of you guys now of a way
that I can check my self.               thanks   Butch  68  442  post

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 09:06:35 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: clicking??????please help

>When the motor mount finally gave, the cooling fan would hit the
>> fan shroud when you put it in drive.
>SNIP
>Good suggestion. Another more extreme case (true story) was my buddies
>car. He had the tranny worked on and when they re-installed it, they
>didn't tighten the bell housing.
<snip>

Same happenned to me on my V-6 82 Cutlass. There was a 1/2 inch gap between
motor and tranny. Noise didn't go away completely when tightened, 'cuz the
flywheel was also cracked.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 09:09:01 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Selling Olds ??

>I am buying an Olds, but the seller recently became very concerned about
the
>taxes he will have to pay when he sells it.  Have you heard of this before?

Betcha he's got back property taxes on it, which he'll have to pay before he
can transfer the title. Some states are like that.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 09:00:58 -0400
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Re: To the gearheads(SS1 wheels)

Tony, there are SS1s that fit discs.  Instead of the "795" number stamped
inside, they're "810".  At a glace they look the same, most noticeable is
an additional groove in the rim section.

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com
Centennial Feature at http://www.en.com/users/wmachine/wm.html
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: Tony Eichholz <eichholz@liljasper.com>
\
>           Also,I get the dunce of the year award.I put the
> correct(68-72)disc brakes-spindle out on my 67 442.Now,my SSI wheels
don't
> fit. Would you put the 1970 wheels (with the trim rings)on or would you
look
> for hubcaps?Evidently 67 did not come with disc brakes and SSI .  Any
help
> or advice would be greatly appreciated.
>            Thanks Tony
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 09:34:52 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: milling heads

Butch - Try this.  With the head mounted cumbustion chamber up, introduce
fluid (any light vegetable oil works for me.  Olive oil the best.) into the
chambers using a syringe you can get at any drugstore or almost any street
corner in downtown Atlanta.  These syringes are metered in c.c.s.  You'll
have your volume and cause those high dollar heads no grief.  Did the
machine shop also cut the intake side to allow for the change in the
included angle?  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: B. Vosburgh <bob442@svic.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, August 22, 1998 9:05 AM
Subject: milling heads


> I have a set of edelbrock alu. heads.I sent them to a machine shop to
>mill down to get 69 to 70 cc.chamber. In the meantime I emailed edl teck
>and they said .006 tho per cc. so 77 cc to 69 70 cc would be 42 and 48
>tho. My shop said they took 30 off one 33 off the other and are telling
>me they are now between 69 and 70 cc. do any of you guys now of a way
>that I can check my self.               thanks   Butch  68  442  post
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 09:38:46 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Brakes lesson

Passing this on to the list as FYI.

Had a brake job done by Pep Boys a year ago. New rotors, lifetime Raybestos
pads, $220. Lately they've been giving me trouble - chattering, esp at
highway speeds. I figgered a warped rotor.

Brought the car back to Pep Boys yesterday. I was kinda p*ssed that a rotor
could go bad in only 12,000 miles. Here's the scoop (as explained by the
service mgr):

Rubber brake hoses dry out and crack with age (mine were obviously cracked).
Bits of rubber flake off from ~inside~ the hose and get lodged in the
caliper's orifices. Brakes apply OK, but when you take your foot off the
pedal the piston doesn't retract back into the caliper. Pads stay in contact
with rotor. Rotor gets really hot and warps.

Their fix for this was 2 reman'ed calipers, new brake hoses, turn the
rotors, etc. Another $230 lesson.

Moral of the story: replace those beat brake hoses before this happens to
you.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 10:00:26 -0400
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <tjacquillard@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: Brakes lesson

Dave Cullen wrote:
>
> Passing this on to the list as FYI.
>
> Had a brake job done by Pep Boys a year ago. New rotors, lifetime Raybestos
> pads, $220. Lately they've been giving me trouble - chattering, esp at
> highway speeds. I figgered a warped rotor.
>
> Brought the car back to Pep Boys yesterday. I was kinda p*ssed that a rotor
> could go bad in only 12,000 miles. Here's the scoop (as explained by the
> service mgr):
>
> Rubber brake hoses dry out and crack with age (mine were obviously cracked).
> Bits of rubber flake off from ~inside~ the hose and get lodged in the
> caliper's orifices. Brakes apply OK, but when you take your foot off the
> pedal the piston doesn't retract back into the caliper. Pads stay in contact
> with rotor. Rotor gets really hot and warps.
>
> Their fix for this was 2 reman'ed calipers, new brake hoses, turn the
> rotors, etc. Another $230 lesson.
>
> Moral of the story: replace those beat brake hoses before this happens to
> you.
>
> drc
Hoses don't go bad that fast. They should have recommended to change the
hoses when everything else was done. If they didn't, I don't see where
this should be a costly lesson to you. It should be their loss if they
warranteed the work, unless they suggested the hoses to be changed and
you decided against it.
JMHO,
T.J.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 10:34:06 EDT
From: <Mikeytvb@aol.com>
Subject: Re: milling heads

about how much did it cost to have the heads milled?

mikeytvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 10:34:10 EDT
From: <COUPEKING@aol.com>
Subject: 455 blocks

Bob-
Have heard from many sources besides the FAQ that the F0-F1-F2 blocks are the
strongest. I chose an F1 block for my 500ci, 12.5:1, titanium rod vintage drag
car motor.
Peter

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 10:40:23 EDT
From: <Supafli50@aol.com>
Subject: Re: clicking??????please help

If the clicking is coming from the wheel wells it may also be the calipers
going bad.  I have a 88 Cutlass Supreme and the same noise persisted on my
car.  I found out the the calipers were wearing and the whole unit was
clicking.
Matt
88 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 10:53:22 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: 2 bbl to 4 bbl Conversions; Whad'ya think?

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 98-08-21 21:32:31 EDT, you write:
>
> <<  I treated it like a Chevelle and immediately set about obtaining a four
> barrel intake and Holley to replace the stock Rochester 2GC setup. >>
>
> Im curious as to how you like the Holley.
>
> Does it bog down when you give gas from idle?
>
> You see, my understanding is that while Rochester has a pretty good off-idle
> system, Holley lacks one.
>
> I was planning on going from 2GC to Holley O-1850-3, but I would prefer some
> off-idle support from the carb. In short, I am on the verge of junking the
> whole Holley project.
>
> Actually, I acquired two carbs-- a Q-Jet from a '73 Cutlass and the Holley.  
I
> got the Holley because it was free.  Its the same model you're considering.
> First, having rebuilt and tinkered with numerous carbs, let me say ALL 
Holleys
> that I know of, to include the massive 1150 CFM Dominator have idle and
off-idle > circuits, in fact, most 4 bbl Holleys have an idle circuit in the
secondary side > as well as the primary!  Holleys bog off-idle because they're
getting too little > gas, not too much. The problem is too much clearance in 
the
accelerator pump > system.  I had the same problem, at first.  The accelerator
pump is operated by > a lever mounted on a pivot point on the driver's side of
the carb.  One end > rides on a nylon cam on the throttle shaft.  The other end
of this operating > lever depresses a much smaller lever on the bottom front of
the primary float > bowl, which, in turn actuates the accelerator pump
diaphragm. The clearance > between these two levers is adjusted by a
spring-loaded screw on the main > lever.  What does all this have to do with
bogging?  Well, if the clearance > between these two levers is too great 
(Holley
recommends no clearance!) the > throttle plates can open but you will not get
any pump shot until the cam on the > throttle shaft pushes the operating lever
far enough.  The engine will get an > inrush of air, with no enrichening and
hesitate.  A split second later, your > main system starts up, and the engine
picks up again.  I have my system set so > there is actually a constant 
loading
on the small diaphragm lever, much like the > constant loading on plunger-type
accelerator pumps in Rochesters and Carters.  I > have removed all play in the
system.  HERE'S THE GLITCH...any time you change > the idle speed, you will 
have
to check and, perhaps, readjust the accelerator > pump main operating lever. > 
>
Hope this helps.

Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 08:16:08 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Brakes lesson

> Brought the car back to Pep Boys yesterday. I was kinda p*ssed that a rotor
> could go bad in only 12,000 miles. Here's the scoop (as explained by the
> service mgr):
>
> Rubber brake hoses dry out and crack with age (mine were obviously cracked).
> Bits of rubber flake off from ~inside~ the hose and get lodged in the
> caliper's orifices. Brakes apply OK, but when you take your foot off the
> pedal the piston doesn't retract back into the caliper. Pads stay in contact
> with rotor. Rotor gets really hot and warps.
>
> Their fix for this was 2 reman'ed calipers, new brake hoses, turn the
> rotors, etc. Another $230 lesson.
>
If your hoses were that bad, Pep-Boys should have done that on the original
visit.
they are bleeding you dry.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 00:53:17 -0700
From: "Kim Hambly" <kimbo@sprint.ca>
Subject: obsessed with my cutlass

I have a 67 cutlass supreme.I am in the middle of restoring it. My question
is where can i find fenders for it i have all the moldings and emblems if
cannot find fenders or patch panels will get them fabricated. Never had a
car make me so happy before, lots of fun.
				Kimbo

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 01:15:04 -0700
From: "Kim Hambly" <kimbo@sprint.ca>
Subject: obsessed with my 67

Way to excited about my car. Never had an obsession like this before. In
the process of restoring it. I guess it eill take me about 10 years but
well worth the wait $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. Kimbo

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 12:24:24 EDT
From: <JMoakBOTH@aol.com>
Subject: Left overs for sale

Just completed my project. 1971 cutlass supreme conv. with 455.  Now I need to
clean out garage.  I have left over:
original "OLDSMOBILE" 4bl intake manifold numbers "412753"  "D1 BL"  "Y"
$50.00
4 - 14" SSII wheels painted black                   $ ?? make offer
4 - 14"  trim rings  good condition but not new   $125.00 all
4 - set of 5 chrome bezels  good condition but not new     $85.00 all
1 - pair of erson chrome valve covers  condition OK not good $?? not much
will take less for all to one buyer.
buyer pays shipping
Thanks to all on the list for the help is getting mine back on the road again.
Please e-mail me privately at JMoakBoth@AOL.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 12:53:02 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: obsessed with my 67

In a message dated 98-08-22 12:15:25 EDT, you write:

<<  Way to excited about my car. Never had an obsession like this before. In
the process of restoring it. I guess it eill take me about 10 years but well
worth the wait $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. Kimbo  >>

Hmmmm.

I can tell that these symptoms have been developing for some time.

You are not truly obsessed with your car....yet.

In order for that to happen you must be a member of the Oldsmobile Club of
America, as well as your local OCA chapter club and attend Oldsmobile car
shows.

In the final stages, you should expect to name your car (you will probably not
be able to help it) and refer to your car as first person, and yourself in
third person....

(((Wait a sec....  :)   )))

Good luck with your project!!!

SOM
&KA
(reunited!)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 12:55:51 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: 455 blocks

> Bob-
> Have heard from many sources besides the FAQ that the F0-F1-F2 blocks are
the
> strongest. I chose an F1 block for my 500ci, 12.5:1, titanium rod vintage
drag
> car motor.
> Peter

Titanium rods ---- Geese .   With a strong bottom end you must be able to
crank upto 7000 rpm's

I am impressed.

Robert

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 13:01:12 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Left overs for sale

 > 4 - 14"  trim rings  good condition but not new   $125.00 all
> 4 - set of 5 chrome bezels  good condition but not new     $85.00 all
> Please e-mail me privately at JMoakBoth@AOL.com

I hate to do this, and usually i never do but.

Are these pieces really worth this type of coin.  I am not mocking you, I
just see complete rims with all the trimmings forsale usually $100 or so
for a 4.
Someone please explain.

Just Curious

Rob Schinkel

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 13:09:49 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Motor Boo - Boo

I recently bought and parted a 78 Delta.  The engine was a 350 that the guy
said was built for racing.  He said he had put $600 into  the tranny and
$3500 into the engine.  I didn't believe it was that good for racing, I
just thought that most of the money was probably spent on new parts like
the new GM carb and the New HEI distributor and the performer intake.  Well
I though i would just sell it off and make a quick $100 or so.  Today i
pulled the engine out and discover that there is a new 11" TCI converter.
The Tranny is new GM th400 and every bit and piece you can think of is all
new, even down to every nut and bolt.  Well I guess I should have thought
about the engine a bit longer.
The bothering part is that the guy who bought it from me is putting it into
a 85 cadilac as a replacement motor and tranny.  and for $750 ($450US) I
think he got a good deal.

PS --- to the list member that wanted the rear sway bar, please E me its
ready

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 13:13:24 EDT
From: <JMoakBOTH@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Left overs for sale

Rob,  You may be correct.  I know what they sell for new and tried to price
approx. 50%.  everything is worth only what someone else is willing to pay.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 13:27:40 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Holley Off-Idle was: 2 bbl to 4 bbl

T.P. Smith lectures;

<< Well, if the clearance between these two levers is too great (Holley
recommends no clearance!) the throttle plates can open but you will not get
any pump shot until the cam on the throttle shaft pushes the operating lever
far enough.  >>

Aha!!

So by using the cam kit available from Holley (Jeg's, [and I assume Summit])
you can actually get the pump shot to begin sooner (or later?), thus narrowing
the time during which the available mixture is too (little gas [rich? dammit!
I cannot keep that straight!]).

Good stuff!

Thanks much!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 13:27:19 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Left overs for sale

> everything is worth only what someone else is willing to pay.

There's big truth to this.  If you don't like the price, then look
somewhere else.  I believe that most people sell stuff for what they
feel is a fair price.  I myself, still live in the sixties or something,
because I think everything is overpriced nowadays, not just car stuff.
If you have something for sale, and no one ever buys it, then you can
always do what GM does when it doesn't sell cars.  Have a big sale.  Of
course, when an item is hot, you can ask just about anything.  Supply
and demand ALWAYS rules with used car parts.  Nuff said.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 13:35:19 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Holley Off-Idle was: 2 bbl to 4 bbl

> So by using the cam kit available from Holley (Jeg's, [and I assume Summit])
> you can actually get the pump shot to begin sooner (or later?), thus 
narrowing
> the time during which the available mixture is too (little gas [rich? dammit!
> I cannot keep that straight!]).

Actually, and I'll keep it light here, the cam kit VARIES the delivery
timing of the pump shot, as to how much and when it varies DURING the
shot.  Don't confuse this with when the pump starts to shoot fuel.  You
want the adjusting bolt/spring on top of the actuating lever to JUST
TOUCH the pump lever when the throttles are closed.  This way, ANY
movement of the throttle starts a fuel shot into the barrels.  The cam
and shooters vary how much, and HOW LONG the pump shot takes to get
there.  If you set it up too loose, you get a bog, and too tight, you
don't get full stroke, hence less pump shot.

Basically, you want NO hesitation when taking it from idle to part
throttle.  You have to play with shooter size, cam ramps (colors) to
dial this in.  Each engine will respond differently.  This is where the
experimentation comes into play.  REMEMBER:  Do only ONE change at a
time to see if there's an improvement or decrease in performance.  This
way you can "undo" any detrimental changes.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 13:47:27 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: See My Diff Code!

Yup.

I posted it.

Got a good pic of my code and where it is on the axle.
As well as some other misc shots.

The link did not publish properly so try;

http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/soylent.html

Patience!
All the pics take a while to load!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 14:51:14 EDT
From: <DKlauber@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Car Transports

Call around and price shop as they do vary quite a bit. Hemmings has the most
ads for the transport services.  I know people that used Newman Transport and
were happy with them.  I would also check with the Better Business Bureau and
make sure they don't have a lot (or any) complaints against them.  I am going
to be using Exotic Car Transports in 2 weeks, and will let you know how they
do.  They did pass the BBB call.  May also want to check with the Chamber of
Commerce in the city the transporter is in and make sure they are on the up
and up.  Good luck!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 15:39:39 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: 2 bbl to 4 bbl Conversions; Whad'ya think?

My 2bbl setup is sitting out in the shed gathering spiders.  An
Edelbrock Performer intake and 600cfm carb sit under the hood.  I have
no use for a slow car.

- -greg

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1442
*********************************
