Editors note:  Due to a problem with MajorDomo, two Digest #1495's were
generated, each with different content.  Both are presented here...


Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1495


oldsmobile-digest    Saturday, September 19 1998    Volume 01 : Number 1495



leaving for a little while
Unilite Conversions
Windshield prices (was Windshield Antennas)
Re: 82 GN's
More on Windshields
Re: Carb Problems
Re: Hey Olds Magnet!
Re: T3'S
Re:T3'S
Re: tranny jumps between 2nd and 3rd
Re: still overheating
Re: Long Distance Hauling
RE: T3'S
Englishtown Event
Re: 455 block needed
Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms
Re: Long Distance Hauling
Re: 455 block needed
Re: Long Distance Hauling
Re: shipping
Could someone please forward this?!?!?!?  Daughter with Olds  in Flagstaff
Re: EGR Tubes
Re: T3'S
Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms
Parts wanted ad......
Re: 1971 442 4Sale and Parting 69
Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms
Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms
Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms
Re: T3'S
Found in Roanoke Va paper
Oil Smoke!!!
Re: Oil Smoke!!!
Re: Discounts Revisited...
Re: 47 sub frame
Re: Rust on Toro top
Re: tranny jumps between 2nd and 3rd
Stinger Conversion Kit (Was Re: Unilite Conversions)
65-70 Big Convertibles
Re: Oil Smoke!!!
Ignition Problem - Need Advice
Re: Discounts Revisited...
Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms, 2 cents
RE: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms
Chrome plater.
Re: tranny jumps between 2nd and 3rd
Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms
Re: Unilite Conversions
B O P results....
Re: Unilite Conversions
Re: Ignition Problem - Need Advice
Re: Ignition Problem - Need Advice
Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms
Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3
Re: Ignition Problem - Need Advice
Re: Rust on Toro top
Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms
ADMIN: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms
Re: Unilite Conversions
Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms
Re: Rust on Toro top
Re: ADMIN: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms
Re: Rust on Toro top
Re: [Toro]Rust under the top
84's 307 struggling
Re: Unilite Conversions
overview

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 01:09:03 EDT
From: GaryDW30@aol.com
Subject: leaving for a little while

Unsubscribe
This is temporary, d#$n computer becoming very unstable. If I can't fix it
quick, I'll be shopping for new computer.
Have to have my Olds list fix on a regular basis.
Gary

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 01:04:15 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Unilite Conversions

Fellow Rocket Drivers:

I was just wondering, has anyone out there tried the Mallory Unilite
conversion for points distributors?  It seems that many Olds people
who've gone electronic use the HEI.  Frankly, I rather like the look of
the traditional distributor setup in my '71.  My car ceased to be
numbers correct long before I got it, but I'd at least like to keep it
looking relatively "period-correct."  Anyhow, I've read some bad things
about the, currently popular, Pertronix Ignitor conversion.  It seems
some people on the Classical Pontiac Q&A BBS (no, I'm not thinking of
betraying the cause) have had problems with the magnets starting to work
loose from the magnet ring.   Also, it seems the rivets holding the
electronic module can start to wiggle loose, too.  So, how's the Unilite
conversion?  Any ideas?   Thanks.

 Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 22:35:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Windshield prices (was Windshield Antennas)

>
>FWIW, I just had a new windshield, (tinted w/antenna) installed in my 72
>H/O.  Cost $159 included tax and they came to my house to install it.
>
>Randy

The guy just left from taking mine out.  The price here in Southern
California seemed to run from about $160 to $260.  The guy I got quoted
$165 plus $45 because I wanted him to take it out so I could paint the dash
and replace the vinyl header (it turns out that I have a bit of rust repair
to do too) and then come back in a few days to reinstall it.  He is doing
the whole job for $200.

Interseting guy, he is a stunt man and would be actor and has a glass
contract with one of the studios.  He said he was going to a shooting of
90210 this evening with about 10 Porshe windshields.  He gets $350 a
windshield plus $ 50 an hour to hang around and install them.  Good work if
you can get it.



Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 02:17:01 EDT
From: Socalolds@aol.com
Subject: Re: 82 GN's

Louie,
Have you ever run across an 81 t-type conv. I met a older couple at a farmers
market where our club was showing their cars. She said she was the original
owner of this car and she was thinking of selling it. They were thinking of
asking $7,500. The car had been sitting for 6 years and needed belts ,hoses
etc. and  they had no need for it anymore. She said the factory made 10 of
them. Whats your thoughts? I did not get her number but she was going to
advertise it in the local auto trader.
Dennis

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 02:27:47 EDT
From: LooseCanno@aol.com
Subject: More on Windshields

Hey List:

You may remember I had mentioned an acquaintance who had provided a Goat for
Seinfeld..   She pointed out that the standard stock windshields wreak havoc
with reflections when it comes to shooting film or taping through them, so for
shots through the front glass the windshield is replaced with an untinted,
non-coated clear model.  The clear 'shield is pulled when the car is returned.

Erik
'69 Cutlass 'S' Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 04:01:10 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Carb Problems

In a message dated 98-09-18 21:42:32 EDT, you write:

<< I have a 1971 carb original equipment.  I did adjust the float so I might
just have it to high.  I did replace the needle and seat and it does not die
at idle. I am not sure what kind of choke it has but it  is operating correct.
Thank you for your help and any more you can give me.  Brandon >>

Idles crummy, huh?

Assure me as to how well it is tuned.
At last check, dwell & timing were both right on?

Rough idle can also be off timing.
Especially dwell, my car shakes some if dwell is 5' off.


SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 02:06:31 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Hey Olds Magnet!

> Hey!  I just visited your website.  nice cars

Thanks...  They all like the camera...  They just don't like me! :)
> Did I see an 87 on the trailer?

No, that's an 82.  No grilles at the time, as I recall.  Same color as the
Rockit, which made a great picture...  that didn't turn out worth a #$!@#.....

> Amd what are those mirrors on the Supreme?!

POWER!  :)  Umm... out of a ..... <sheepishly> camaro...  but power,
none-the-less...
 --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 08:05:31 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Re: T3'S

Thanks for the info, I too will use them for shows only.
Use Halogen any other time so I can see at night.
Ron Haun
71 442W30 Convert.
Orchard Park NY GO BILLS

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 08:07:35 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Re:T3'S

Thanks for the info guys, appreciate it.
Ron Haun
Orchard Park NY GO BILLS
71 442 W30 Convert.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 98 8:57:49 EDT
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: tranny jumps between 2nd and 3rd

>Well, I finally got my TH350 swapped to a TH400.  The tranny works well and
>doesn't slip or anything.  However when I drive at average city speeds 30-40
>the tranny seems to jump back and forth between 2nd gear and 3rd gear.  I can
>accelerate from a stop and it will shift through all 3 gears just fine.  Then
>once a reach driving speed I let of the gas.  This is when it seems to go back
>into 2nd gear.  If I get back on the gas it will stay in 2nd for a few seconds
>and then shift up to 3rd again.  I know my problem is not the electric
>kickdown, because I unhooked and it still did the same thing.  Is this a
>vacuum problem?  Is this bad for the tranny?  Has anyone had this problem?
>HELP PLEASE


       Did you replace the modulator as well?  Very possibly vacuum related.
If the modulator is the adjustable type you may try adj. it 1/2 turn at a 
time.


      Glenn
      '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 09:09:34 -0400
From: Dave Cullen <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: still overheating

Lou Biggs wrote:
>
> Dave,
> Doesn't water or any material have a fixed heat absorption rate? Like
> running your hand over a flame, quick, no burn, slow, ouch! Perhaps I'm
> wrong but doing cars for years we have found a few examples that removing a
> thermostat will increase the water temp.

To be honest, my experience has been with water cooled industrial
machinery, not cars. And the rule of thumb for coolant was always
"faster is better". (Familiar war cry on this list...) - I suppose
there's always exceptions to the rule, and hard experience certanly
can't be ignored. A truism in this world is that the guy who fixes 'em
knows more than the guy who designs 'em.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 09:22:05 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Long Distance Hauling

In a message dated 9/18/98
 12:<BR01:<BR37 PM Central Daylight Ti, docbob@caninet.com writes:

> If for any reason someone wants a car transported north to south.

I might not be ready by your timing, but I have a potential from Muncie IN to
Knoxville TN. Could you tell me if these two are on your route and the
approximate cost? This is a post-war Olds, about 3500 lbs, plus a spare
engine/trans and  maybe 400 lbs of other spares. Current owner would help
load.

Cheers/Don Carron

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 09:37:09 -0400
From: "Gary J Couse" <gjcouse@mhonline.net>
Subject: RE: T3'S

Just where is Orchard Park? I'm nestled into the side of the North/East tip
of the Catskill Mts., On a dead end road. About 35 miles south of Albany.

BTW, Quincy came home for the weekend. Photo shoot postponed till next
weekend as a new chrome rear bumper cover direct from Olds, came through
with more scratches than my original. Brand new and messed up at $197.00.
So, another is on order to arrive Tuesday.

Anyone ever refresh the color of a vinyl top? Aftermarket spray or body shop
mixed vinyl paint? Unfortunately, the shop allowed masking tape to adhere to
the vynal top. After being there about a month, the tape adhesive remained
stuck to my top. In trying to strip the adhesive, the vynal top color was
bleached, (for lack of a better word). The shop will do a free bee on the
top color as it was there mistake allowing the sun to bake the masking tape
on.

Anyone else with a G-Body have a rear bumper that the flat center section
rippled. My original bumper has pristine chrome but the center is rippled.
Absolutely no sign of an impact. Looks more like a "flex" ripple. The rear
frame rails were very rusted. The frame was rebuilt with good rear rails on
a frame jig. My guess is that with the weakening of the deteriorated rear
rails, the bumper received torchanal flexing in the center section.

Man, I took Quincy out last night and you wouldn't believe the break neck
speeds heads were turning and all the pointing...

Gary


- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse

Couse Customs

gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>
cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com <mailto:cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com>

 
"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS









<>-----Original Message-----
<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of RGHaun@aol.com
<>Sent: Saturday, September 19, 1998 8:08 AM
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<>Subject: Re:T3'S
<>
<>
<>Thanks for the info guys, appreciate it.
<>Ron Haun
<>Orchard Park NY GO BILLS
<>71 442 W30 Convert.
<>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 09:48:32 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Englishtown Event

Following is info I received from my Olds Club regarding the 2 day Olds
event being held in N.J. on Columbus Day weekend. For anyone wanting to
spend the night, one of the local hotels is listed below.

Being billed as "Show & Go" weekend. Will update if I get more info.

October 10th-Saturday, gates open at noon, time trials start at 1 to 2
p.m.,then the racing starts at 4 p.m..(Muffled cars only on Sat.)  We will
have judging before the racing and hand out the trophies during that time
frame too, then we can all race at nite.  Sunday, October 11th,  gates open
at 8 a.m. and its racing all day, (muffled and unmuffled), not judging, just
show only.  The hotel is the Holiday Inn in Clark, NJ, Central Avenue,
1-732-574-0100, its exit 135 off the Garden State Parkway.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 09:47:09 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 block needed

Got this from the Pontiac NG (never know when or where an Olds will show up
:-) Anyone have a block for sale?

Cheers/Carron

Subject: Need 455 block!
From: Death@theDump.net (RatKiller)
Date: 9/18/98
 10:<BR24 PM Central Daylight Time
Message-id: <360423ed.76974037@news.primenet.com>

I need a good 455 block for a friends '40 chevy. Email me at
trollasarus@yahoo.com or call Guyat TSB Undercar in Flagstaff, Az520-522-0730
days or catch me on DALnet#Dew_Drop_Inn   (Troll)Ponchos Rule!!!Troll

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 09:57:41 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms

Before you buy that new car, find out what the name really
 means. Here is a list of car acronyms to help you out.

 AUDI: Automobile Unsafe Designs, Inc.

 BMW: Big Man Wannabe

 BUICK: Big, Ugly, Import Car Killer

 CHEVROLET: Can Hear Every Valve Rattle On Long Extended
 Trips

 DODGE: Drips Oil, Drips Gas Everywhere

 FIAT: Fix It Again, Tony

 FORD: Fix Or Repair Daily

 GEO: Good Engineering Overlooked

 GMC: Garage Mechanic's Companion

 JEEP: Junk Engineered, Executed Poorly

 MAZDA: My! Another Zany Detroit Assassin!

 OLDSMOBILE: Old Ladies Drive Slow -- Mostly Over Bridges Into
 Lake Erie

 PLYMOUTH: Police Laugh, Young Men Ogle, all Underestimating
 This Heap

 PONTIAC: Poor Old Nick Thinks It's A Cadillac

 PORSCHE: Proof Only Rich Suckers Can Have Everything

 SAAB: Sad Attempt At Beauty

 SUBARU: Screwed Up Beyond All Repair Usually

 TRIUMPH: The Risk In Useless Machinery Pays Heavily

 TOYOTA: Towed Often, Yearly Overrunning Triple-A

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 10:05:27 EDT
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: Long Distance Hauling

Hi Don, guess what? every November I go from Fayertteville NC to LaCrosse IN
to go deer hunting on our farm with my father. Muncie is about a hour and a
half out of the way. I've got a good car trailer and a truck and drive right
past you both ways. Let me know thanks Chris

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 10:07:42 EDT
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 block needed

HI Don again I know of a guy that has a good running 68 firebird w a455 and
t400 in it. Thanks Chris

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 10:24:36 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Long Distance Hauling

In a message dated 9/19/98
 9:<BR07:<BR54 AM Central Daylight Tim, SOMMERVLLE@aol.com writes:

> I've got a good car trailer and a truck and drive right
>  past you both ways. Let me know thanks Chris

Chris,

Thanks for the reply. I am 14 miles S of Knoxville. Do you want to stop by for
a refresher this year on either leg of the journey? We hunt also.

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 10:38:58 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: shipping

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_004F_01BDE3B9.B5883760
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Fed Ex will ship large stuff, maybe worth a try. I had them ship a =
couple of bumpers for me and they said they could ship a 455  if I =
wanted to. Didn't ask for pricing.

just a thought,

Randy



- ------=_NextPart_000_004F_01BDE3B9.B5883760
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Fed Ex will ship large stuff, maybe worth a try. I =
had them=20
ship a couple of bumpers for me and they said they could ship a =
455&nbsp; if I=20
wanted to. Didn't ask for pricing.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>just a thought,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Randy</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_004F_01BDE3B9.B5883760--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 10:53:52 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Could someone please forward this?!?!?!?  Daughter with Olds  in
Flagstaff

- --------- Begin forwarded message ----------
From: System Administrator <postmaster@Headquarters.Eveready.com>
To: roc

Your message

  To:      terencen.telzrow@energizer.com
  Subject: Daughter's Olds in Flagstaff.
  Sent:    Fri, 18 Sep 1998 20:02:42 -0500

did not reach td
    MSEXCH:IMS:Energizer:Headquarters:USHQL003181 0 (000C05A6) Unknown
Recipient



- ------_=_NextPart_000_01BDE369.8F1BDDA2
Content-Type: message/rfc822
Content-Location: ATT1500000F8773EF8

Message-ID: <19980918.210243.7582.20.Rocket409@juno.com>
From: rocket409@juno.com


Hey Telzrow!

I lived in new mexico (silver city) and Arizona (Tucson) with my Olds.
But I and the car are from PA and in PA now.

To experience lack of power in Flagstaff is completely normal.  Your
daughter is now a victim of high altitude, needs to cook her macaronis
longer, but only at 94 degrees celcius or so.

Because of the difference in altitude, there is a considerale difference
in the density of the air; therefore, the car will have a much harder
time breathing.  With retuning the carb, the car has a limited time of
running until it fouls the plugs because of running too rich.  She will
need to retune the carb, or have it done, according to her elevation
level.  I believe flagstaff is about 7000 feet.(?)  The general rule for
altitude tuning is to decrease one jet size for every 1000 feet after
3000.  Some people say one jet size for every 2000 feet above 0 (sea
level).  The 1000 after 3000 recommendation came from Car Craft, and the
2000 one came from Holley, so either suggestion can be considered
credable.

So, assuming Flagstaff is at 7000 feet, she will need to decrease carb
jet size by 3.5 or 4 sizes.  Since there probably isn't a such thing as
3.5 sizes, she have to go with four.  If she's 7000!!!  Adjust
accordingly otherwise.  As far as metering rods, I believe they have
sizes matched with jets, but I'm not sure.  She'll be at the mercy of the
mechanc for that info.

In the mean time, instruct your daughter to spray carb cleaner down the
carb periodically.  She should do this while the car is running and nice
and hot.  It's best to spray directly in the carb and stop just before
the engine stalls, and then repeat many times.  It's good to work the
throttle a little while doing this also.  Tell her not to hesitate to
spray hlaf a can or an entire can in during one cleaning session, it can
only help.  This will help get rid of the raw fuel build up that will be
accumilating on her spark plugs.

I don't buy the clogged catalytic converter theory, especially with the
low mileage car.  If the car ever dies on her and will not restart after
some attempts at diagnosis and repair, there's a good chance that it will
be the fuel pump.  Running at high altitudes with a car not properly
tuned for it, for some mysterious reason, has a way of killing the fuel
pump.  Replacing an Olds fuel pump is no big deal at all, if your
daughter likes to work on cars at all.  But I guess y'all could worry
about that if it happens.

Also, the plug gap could/should be decreased .005 inches, or maybe even
.010.  After the car is tuned right, it will still be lacking a lot of
power.  At 7000 feet, she's only got half the air we do back east.  When
I had my car in Silver City, NM, it was a ridiculously noticeable
difference in power.  Many people out there have superchargers on all
kinds of cars just to compensate.  But, if your daughter is like most
other girls, she'll be happy to know that she weighs less there too!
Good luck, and feel free to ask any more questions.



Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

- ------_=_NextPart_000_01BDE364.398C3D6E--

- --------- End forwarded message ----------

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

- ------_=_NextPart_000_01BDE369.8F1BDDA2--

- --------- End forwarded message ----------

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 08:06:43 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: EGR Tubes

Jason,

I've never had to clean them myself, but you should just be able to pull
the carb off and clean out the tube with an appropriately sized drill
bit.  Then vacuum as suggested.  Since they're carbon bits and not
metal, if one or two get sucked into the engine they should just pass
through without harm.

I'd also remove the EGR valve and make sure the passage between the EGR
valve and the tubes is clear by blowing some compressed air through it.


Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz/hurst.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 12:26:29 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Re: T3'S

Orchard Park is just 20 miles south of Buffalo New York,
home of the Buffalo Bills, I live just two miles south of the
Bills stadium.
Ron Haun
71 442 W30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 12:28:24 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms

Want to buy a Ford, just follow the oil slick.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 12:41:26 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Parts wanted ad......

Found in the parts wanted ads..!!!  Thought someone might be able to help..!!


50 Oldsmobile 88 - Need Bumpers (front and rear), Front Grill, Front 
directional
light assemblies (teardrop under headlight), Rear tail light assemblies (
including chrome strip on top of rear quarter panel). Looking for decent chrome
as this is not a show car. Richard St. George, 401-728-4904,


 Email:

 marynrich@mail.earthlink.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 12:53:31 EDT
From: CFRYE88888@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1971 442 4Sale and Parting 69

do you have a trunk lid in good condition for 69 442?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 13:08:00 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms

Another one for Ford:

FORD:  Found On Road Dead.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 13:33:55 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms

Another one for ford

First on race day  oops

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 13:36:14 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms

One for Pontiac

Poor old n---er thinks it's a cadallic

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 14:45:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robert Yasczak <VJTD@grove.iup.edu>
Subject: Re: T3'S

I ordered a new bumper for the back of my 87 salon towards the end of the
summer, when I got I did not take it of the box to look at it until it was at
ny house.  It turned out to be scratched in the center at the high point.  So,
I took it back to the dealer and ordered another one, this time the bumper was
even worse than the first one.  In other wordsd good luck getting a good
bumperfrom GM.
			Robert Yasczak		vjtd@grove.iup.edu

			1969 Cutlass S Conv.
			1969 442
			1976 442
			1987 Cutlass Salon
			1998 Intrique GLS


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 14:53:27 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Found in Roanoke Va paper

OLDS TORONADO '84 Quick sale! Must sacrifice! Asking $1995.540- 387-0222 or 
540-
387-1448


.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 16:06:27 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Oil Smoke!!!

Today I decided to clean up the Cutlass -- it has been in the garage
through 2 weeks of lousy weather. The only time it had been started during
that period was a week ago when I changed the oil.

A few things about this... I usually use Valvoline or Castrol 20-50
because the motor just seems to like it better. With the onset of cooler
weather though I put Esso (Exxon) 10-30 in it last week, along with a
bottle of GM EOS which I like to do occasionally. The EOS is quite thick
so I figure the viscosity is somewhere above 10-30. At the time I changed
the oil I started it and all was well.

It sat there all week, and started right up today. As I started to pull
out after maybe 15 seconds I noticed a huge smoke cloud coming from
behind. Out in the driveway I could see it was coming from the right side
tailpipe. Definitely blue oil smoke. The cloud in the garage was huge, and
while there was a little coming from the tailpipe it didn't seem all that
much. After a short time there was none. I let the car sit for a couple of
hours and when I restarted it there was no smoke.

This car has never had a problem with burning oil so I'm concerned as to
what would cause this. Since it stopped I figure it probably isn't a ring
(thank god). Valve seals then come to mind. I suppose it is possible since
they are originals. But what would cause this to happen and then clear up?
A slow drip into one cylinder as the car sits without running? Maybe the
thinner oil revealed one starting to go?

Just in case, what's involved in changing these?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 15:46:45 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oil Smoke!!!

My 442 will smoke some after sitting awhile, never any problem tho.
I use Quaker State 10W-30 all the time. Never down any oil when
I change it too after 2000 miles.
Ron Haun
Orchard Park, NY

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 16:00:28 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Discounts Revisited...

In a message dated 98-09-15 19:33:31 EDT, you write:

<< For how many of you out there has owning an Oldsmobile actually influenced
where you live? There is one list member who lives in the 34429 zip code,
another lives on 425th Street, and another lives (my favorite) on Speedwell
Road ;-)
 I also know of a Toro list member who lives in OLDSmar Florida. >>

425th street????

Please tell me that is in Indiana!!!

SOM  <--- $45 for muffler and patch pipe, sounds much better
&KA  <-----just sore

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 16:14:32 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: 47 sub frame

In a message dated 9/17/98
 5:<BR47:<BR58 PM Central Daylight Tim, jalkara@whidbey.net writes:

> i seem to have missed this subframe question.  could you email me
>  privately, i have a sub framed 47 and know of 2 others
>
>
>  47rocket98

Jalkara,

I sent yo a reply to your msg. I have been getting lost mails recently
courtest of AOL, and I really wanted to hear back from you. If you didn't get
it, please let me know and I'll resend. If you haven't had time to reply, I'll
just try to be more patient.

Cheers/Carron
went to a car show in Pigeon Forge TN this morn...left a note with a guy for a
guy who knows a guy who has a 47 sedanette, restorable. Or at least that's
what he said ;-)

Cheers/Don carron
Rockford TN

ps, please tell me about your car and about your friends with 40s Oldses sub-
framed. I saw a 46 Chevy at the show, top chopped (hard to do on the torpedo,
but it looked good) but it had a Nova clip and cad rear suspension/axle.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 16:27:50 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rust on Toro top

I suppose this is the wrapup on the questions I asked last week about the
otherwise nice 71 Toro with rust under the vinyl top. I checked with a body
man who has done numerous restorations and rods. He says to run, don't walk
away. He says that once you've got rust under the vinyl that goes through,
there is NO WAY to make a permanent repair. It will always come back, and
twice as soon as you thought it would.

I suppose that is the end for that car as far as I am concerned, unless there
is a way to convert it to a convrertible (no pun intended) for a reasonable
sum. Man, it's a shame, as the car is nice and the interior is really good.

Thanks to you all who offered advice.

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 15:37:19 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: tranny jumps between 2nd and 3rd

Glenn,
Talk with the General.
gttrans@mindsprings.com Has a web site, can't find it right now.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
in good ole St. Lou

Glenn wrote:
> From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>

> >Well, I finally got my TH350 swapped to a TH400.  The tranny works well
and
> >doesn't slip or anything.  However when I drive at average city speeds
30-40
> >the tranny seems to jump back and forth between 2nd gear and 3rd gear.
I can
> >accelerate from a stop and it will shift through all 3 gears just fine.
Then
> >once a reach driving speed I let of the gas.  This is when it seems to
go back
> >into 2nd gear.  If I get back on the gas it will stay in 2nd for a few
seconds
> >and then shift up to 3rd again.  I know my problem is not the electric
> >kickdown, because I unhooked and it still did the same thing.  Is this a
> >vacuum problem?  Is this bad for the tranny?  Has anyone had this
problem?
> >HELP PLEASE

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 17:10:03 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Stinger Conversion Kit (Was Re: Unilite Conversions)

Thomas,

I can't speak for the Unilite conversion kit, but I have used the Stinger
conversion kit with great results.  I got it from Dave Smith Engineering in
Corona, California (909) 371-7040.  It can be made to look practically
invisible if you hide the small control box that controls the coil, which is
the stock output version.  Call Karen or Dave for more information, the kit is
a snap to install and worked like a dream for me until the bushings in the
distributor wore out and caused too large a gap for the reluctor to signal the
pickup that it was firing time.  Also ran one on my Chargers Division asphalt
stock car in 1992 at around 6800 RPM with no problems.

If you have any questions I might be able to help you with, don't hesitate to
e-mail me.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 14:20:46 -0700
From: mitzm@earthlink.net
Subject: 65-70 Big Convertibles

I have a single NOS convertible Top cylinder that fits the mid-late 60s big
converibles.  It is unused in the box.  I picked it up at a swap meet
assuming it was identical to those on the Cutlass's.  Well it isn't so I
don't need it.

I would like $50 for it.  I also have two similar used cylinders off a 67
Caddy for which I would like $10 each.  Or all three for $60.

Would consider a trade for functioning A body cylinder(s).

I am in southern California but I would guess shipping in the US might be
about $5

Hans Naepflin
El Segundo, CA

Mitzm@mail.earthlink.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 17:38:12 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Smoke!!!

Heads on engine:  Remove plugs, pull valve covers, roll engine to cam
overlap for neccessary cylinder.  Introduce compressed air into cylinder.
Remove stand and rockers.  Compress valve spring, remove keepers, release
spring slowly.  Remove spring, revealing stem seal.  R&R stem seal.  Reverse
procedure to reassemble.  Release air pressure.  Shuffle off to next
cylinder and repeat.  Have fun.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 17:37:17 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Ignition Problem - Need Advice

The 442 died on me this afternoon.
I'd been driving for about an hour at excessive highway sppeds ;) I got
on the highway, with a rather heavy foot, drove a mile to my exit,
and as I decelerated for the ramp nopticed that the engine was running a
little rough.  When I got to the top of the ramp and made a stop, she
was running really rough.  I tried to keep her running by feathering the
gas only to succeed in flooding the engine.  After about 20 minutes I
was able to get it started, whereupon it ran rough and wanted to stall.
After sitting for 2 hours, she runs fine.

I have an HEI installed and checked the power connection, cap and
rotor.  My best guess at this point is a heat related failure of either
the coil or the HEI module.  Any insight would be appreciated.


- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 17:50:58 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Discounts Revisited...

> << For how many of you out there has owning an Oldsmobile actually influenced
> where you live? There is one list member who lives in the 34429 zip code,

Uh, that would be me, but I'd RATHER have 34487 zip code (first 5 of a
very cool VIN)....been diggin' on Oldsmobiles FAR longer than living in
the zip code, however.  Just happened to be that when I moved here.
Lucky me.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 17:02:04 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms, 2 cents

Need one for Volvo, hate those cars! especially the head restraints.
designed by a person who has had a automobile described to him but had
actually never saw one. Could be Russian built from quik-set concrete.
                              Lou Biggs


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 18:07:13 -0400
From: "Gary J Couse" <gjcouse@mhonline.net>
Subject: RE: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms

FORD,

Found On Road Dead.  he he.

- ----Regards,


Gary J. Couse

Couse Customs

gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>
 

"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS


<>Original Message-----
<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of RGHaun@aol.com
<>Sent: Saturday, September 19, 1998 1:34 PM
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<>Subject: Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms
<>
<>
<>Another one for ford
<>
<>First on race day  oops

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 18:35:08 -0400
From: "Francomm" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Chrome plater.

1. Anyone have a lead on a good Chrome plating shop?

2. Anyone with experience with polishing oxidized Stainless Steel moldings?
Someone suggested White rubbing compound and 400 - 600 grit wet/dry
sandpaper. I would rather get my trim repolished bright. I would think the
above process would create a satin finish.

3. 307 (100,000+ miles), 200-4R, 2.23? rear (I think, will become 3.43)OX
passenger collector, new dual catalitics (with fresh air installed), Dual
turbo mufflers, all on 2 1/2" pipe. Stock Q-Jet and HEI with new plugs,
wires, cap. Timing set correctly.

Question, seem to be running rich as I'm finding soot on rear fenders, (side
exhaust front of tires). Car runs smooth but a dog. No real spoke.
Occasional black poof at initial WOT but clears up immediately. More so than
before headers. Yes, air pump and exhaust port fresh air manifold
functioning. Carb has never been altered. Adjuster cap/plugs in tact. Apx
1,500 feet in elevation, (car has always been).

This drive line will be coming out in Feb in Lou of a 455. Would just like
to tune it better as it's pre-sold.

Should I pull the carb and attempt a rebuild? Or should I just pull the
plugs and attempt adjustments? Haven't had system on scanner so don't know
if she has produced any codes. I know the FAQ has a carb section for proper
adjustments. Kind of hesitant to rebuild as car runs smooth.

And yeah, I've also got a slight ping around 3,000 rpm during light load.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 15:45:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: tranny jumps between 2nd and 3rd

- ---Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net> wrote:
>
> Glenn,
> Talk with the General.
> gttrans@mindsprings.com Has a web site, can't find it right now.


- ---I kept it,the address is:
        http://gspatton.home.mindspring.com/

          Sman
==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 15:49:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms

- ---RGHaun@aol.com wrote:
>
> Want to buy a Ford, just follow the oil slick.
>The true meaning of Ford........F^&$%^in' Olds Rebuilt Dodge.

==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 15:51:47 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Unilite Conversions

Thomas P. Smith wrote:

> Fellow Rocket Drivers:
>
> I was just wondering, has anyone out there tried the Mallory Unilite
> conversion for points distributors?  It seems that many Olds people
> who've gone electronic use the HEI.  Frankly, I rather like the look of
> the traditional distributor setup in my '71.  My car ceased to be
> numbers correct long before I got it, but I'd at least like to keep it
> looking relatively "period-correct."  Anyhow, I've read some bad things
> about the, currently popular, Pertronix Ignitor conversion.  It seems
> some people on the Classical Pontiac Q&A BBS (no, I'm not thinking of
> betraying the cause) have had problems with the magnets starting to work
> loose from the magnet ring.   Also, it seems the rivets holding the
> electronic module can start to wiggle loose, too.  So, how's the Unilite
> conversion?  Any ideas?   Thanks.

Thomas,

We've been using the Mallory Uni-Lite conversion in our race car's
Delco distributor for many years without a failure.  Although stock
appearance was not a concern with that car, I do like the fact that
with the exception of two additional wires, the Uni-Lite is completely
contained in the distributor.  No external boxes, special coils, etc. are
required.  In addition, you do not have to convert your 71 Cutlass'
alternator to an internally regulated unit.  As you should with an HEI.
I have found the Uni-Lite to be a very reliable unit.  Although should
you have a failure with it, it would be very easy to reinstall the points
and condenser and be on your way.

Hope this helps.

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

  See our race car at:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com/photos/superpro/our67.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 15:58:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: B O P results....

 ---RGHaun@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Want to buy a Ford, just follow the oil slick.
> >The true meaning of Ford........F^&$%^in' Olds Rebuilt Dodge.

- ---oops...that was supposed to be Old.....just used to typing "Olds" I
guess....

- ------~real ~Olds content......sort of.
         Well the BOP show today had a ~great~ turnout....if you drive
a Buick or Pontiac.:(Only one ,G-body Olds out there....Lots of Regal
and GN's....on real nice GNX....got pics to get developed tomorrow.Did
have several 64-72 cars....nice.....only 2 73-75 cars.Weather was the
biggest problem here.....nice ,but looked like it was going to pour
any minute.
          Drags were pretty good....one list member
....Redzilla....hit the track....cool.Got some friends cars I hadn't
seen in a while...for the owners gallery.
                Sman
==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 19:12:44 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Re: Unilite Conversions

I have had a Mallory electronic Dist. on my 442 for 10 yrs now, no problems
(not conversion, complete dist.) with mallory coil, car never
skips a beat, install AC rapid fire plugs this year and what a difference that
made. Also have Mallory rev limiter tach, don't want to go over 5500
rpm's, olds noted for bad oilers, spin braring easily unless you have the
crank cross drilled and chamfered.
Ron Haun
71 442 W30
Orchard Park, NY GO BILLS

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 19:02:17 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Ignition Problem - Need Advice

Kurt,

I had similar symptoms that turned out to be the fuel bowls on my Holley
were getting too warm.  I put an aluminum spacer between the carb an intake
to insulate the carb.
Now all is fine.

I know I haven't talked to an ignition problem, only the symptoms.  I'm just
tossing out an idea.  I hope I'm not taking this off on a tangent.

Good Luck

Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350

Kurt Heinrich wrote:

> The 442 died on me this afternoon.
> I'd been driving for about an hour at excessive highway sppeds ;) I got
> on the highway, with a rather heavy foot, drove a mile to my exit,
> and as I decelerated for the ramp nopticed that the engine was running a
> little rough.  When I got to the top of the ramp and made a stop, she
> was running really rough.  I tried to keep her running by feathering the
> gas only to succeed in flooding the engine.  After about 20 minutes I
> was able to get it started, whereupon it ran rough and wanted to stall.
> After sitting for 2 hours, she runs fine.
>
> I have an HEI installed and checked the power connection, cap and
> rotor.  My best guess at this point is a heat related failure of either
> the coil or the HEI module.  Any insight would be appreciated.
>
> --
> Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
> 71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
> OCA# 30442
>
> *****************************************************
> * visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
> *****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 19:15:15 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Re: Ignition Problem - Need Advice

Could be that the windings opened up on the coil, after it cools down runs
fine?? That happened to me, lots of heat with those big block old's.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 19:17:13 EDT
From: MFATZII@aol.com
Subject: Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms

Ford

F#@$^d up     Overhauled   Rebuilt   Dodge

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 18:23:17 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3

Peter,
You said put cyn. on valve overlap, wouldn't that keep both valves open? I
think you want TDC with that particular cylinder in firing position. Not a
flame, been burnt before. Take care.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
in old St. Lou

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 18:26:53 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Ignition Problem - Need Advice

In that case should lose any spark, not run at all.
Lou

- ----------
> From: RGHaun@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Ignition Problem - Need Advice
> Date: Saturday, September 19, 1998 6:15 PM
>
> Could be that the windings opened up on the coil, after it cools down
runs
> fine?? That happened to me, lots of heat with those big block old's.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 19:18:11 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Rust on Toro top

SpeedCom@aol.com wrote:

> I suppose this is the wrapup on the questions I asked last week about the
> otherwise nice 71 Toro with rust under the vinyl top. I checked with a body
> man who has done numerous restorations and rods. He says to run, don't walk
> away. He says that once you've got rust under the vinyl that goes through,
> there is NO WAY to make a permanent repair. It will always come back, and
> twice as soon as you thought it would.

    I need a little education.  It seems to me that if the bad metal on the 
roof
is cut out and new metal welded in and properly coated, the repair should be as
permanent as the rest of the roof.  Enlighten me.

Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 19:28:56 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms

That's a good one.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 20:40:46 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: ADMIN: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms

I know it's all in fun, but those acronyms have been around here a zillion
times. And some are in questionable taste. For those of us who have been
here a while it's a colossal waste of space and time. Especially since I
know that they are on a web page somewhere.

Please let's not post any more here. This is an OLDS list.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 19:32:42 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Unilite Conversions

Greg Rollin wrote:

> Thomas P. Smith wrote:
>
> > Fellow Rocket Drivers:
> >
> > I was just wondering, has anyone out there tried the Mallory Unilite
> > conversion for points distributors?  It seems that many Olds people
> > who've gone electronic use the HEI.  Frankly, I rather like the look of
> > the traditional distributor setup in my '71.  So, how's the Unilite
> > conversion?  Any ideas?   Thanks.
>
> Thomas,
>
> We've been using the Mallory Uni-Lite conversion in our race car's
> Delco distributor for many years without a failure.  Although stock
> appearance was not a concern with that car, I do like the fact that
> with the exception of two additional wires, the Uni-Lite is completely
> contained in the distributor.  No external boxes, special coils, etc. are
> required.  In addition, you do not have to convert your 71 Cutlass'
> alternator to an internally regulated unit.  As you should with an HEI.
> I have found the Uni-Lite to be a very reliable unit.  Although should
> you have a failure with it, it would be very easy to reinstall the points
> and condenser and be on your way.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Greg Rollin

    Greg,

    It helps immensly.  Thanks.  What kind of distributor shaft tolerances
will the Unilite Conversion handle?  The Pertronix requires most of the end
play to be removed from the distributor.  I'm guessing the distributor should
be rebuilt to remove end and side play on the distributor shaft.  Correct?
How much is allowable?  Also, what specific performance improvements did you
notice in the Unilite conversion?

Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 19:44:58 -0400
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms

Fix Or Repair Daily

- ----------
From: Gary J Couse <gjcouse@mhonline.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: RE: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms
Date: Saturday, September 19, 1998 6:07 PM

FORD,

Found On Road Dead.  he he.

- ----Regards,


Gary J. Couse

Couse Customs

gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>
 

"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS


<>Original Message-----
<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of RGHaun@aol.com
<>Sent: Saturday, September 19, 1998 1:34 PM
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<>Subject: Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms
<>
<>
<>Another one for ford
<>
<>First on race day  oops
- ----------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 18:56:22 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Rust on Toro top

Tom.
Should work, engine man myself but I hung around body shops. They did it
with good results.
Lou Biggs

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 19:01:57 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms

Sorry Greg,
A little red wine and too much fun! I'm still halfway new to the list, some
humor is good, breaks the monotony,
probably overdone in this instance. Guilty as charged.
Thanks for the input, good thing someone is in charge.
Lou

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 20:12:10 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rust on Toro top

In a message dated 9/19/98
 6:<BR36:<BR17 PM Central Daylight Tim, smithtp@ix.netcom.com writes:

>     I need a little education.  It seems to me that if the bad metal on the
> roof
>  is cut out and new metal welded in and properly coated, the repair should
be
> as
>  permanent as the rest of the roof.  Enlighten me

I'm sorry, I am not the one to enlighten. I was relaying what I'd heard from
an experienced body man. He said that even if you welded in new metal (which
means the expense of a new headliner also), the weld itself is an
encouragement to rust. he said that the only thing that would keep the rust at
bay was galvanizing, and paint woulnd't stick to *that*.

Further on the subject, I can't say.  I will say though, that I've heard for
many years that once rust starts around the rear window, as it has on this
Toro, at the junction of the lower window frame and the forward part of the
rear deck, that it can never be stopped.

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 20:21:33 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Toro]Rust under the top

Kevin,

Thanks for the informative reply. This car is so good, that I hate to let it
go. I had not intended to replace the vinyl roof, wanting the car to be
painted all over.  Still, if a proper repair plus a new vinyl roof was able to
extend the life by 5 years, I would have made money. Maybe I'll have another
think at it.

Thre were two places where rust were showing in the body... the right rear
wheel well flange shows a 4" long spot where the bubbles have broken through
and the left rear quarter, I mean at the front of the trunk lid and the joint
between the rear window and the forward rear Deck. This is painted, and i
think this sort of rust is much more difficult to get a good repair.

Cheers/Don Carron

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 19:34:03 -0500
From: "Joe S" <jcrash7@geocities.com>
Subject: 84's 307 struggling

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_007C_01BDE404.75914A20
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Today, I pulled The Broham out, and was not pleasantly surprised.  =
Starter cranked for about 15 seconds before starting, after started, =
kept sputtering out and killing unless at higher RPM's.  This may be =
normal for a car that's been sitting in a garage for a month, but I've =
stored it before, and other than the long starter cranking time, It =
always ran well.  I checked the oil, surprisingly it was full, because =
last July I had to add 2 quarts at one point. =20

Also, I've also noticed a "clicking" sound coming from the engine, but =
that's been there since the beginning of summer. =20

Another weird occurance today, I actually got the car to burnout.  I've =
spun the tires before on slick surfaces, but I actually backed out to =
the middle of our coul-de-sac, and deliberately tried to.  It was =
someone impressive, should of had someone take a picture to send in to =
John's Burnout Page. =20

- --------------------------------------------------------
Joe Sherbanenko
jcrash7@geocities.com
http://members.tripod.com/~jcrash7
- --------------------------------------------------------

- ------=_NextPart_000_007C_01BDE404.75914A20
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Today, I pulled The Broham out, and =
was not=20
pleasantly surprised.&nbsp; Starter cranked for about 15 seconds before=20
starting, after started, kept sputtering out and killing unless at =
higher=20
RPM's.&nbsp; This may be normal for a car that's been sitting in a =
garage for a=20
month, but I've stored it before, and other than the long starter =
cranking time,=20
It always ran well.&nbsp; I checked the oil, surprisingly it was full, =
because=20
last July I had to add 2 quarts at one point.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Also, I've also noticed a =
&quot;clicking&quot;=20
sound coming from the engine, but that's been there since the beginning =
of=20
summer.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Another weird occurance today, I =
actually got=20
the car to burnout.&nbsp; I've spun the tires before on slick surfaces, =
but I=20
actually backed out to the middle of our coul-de-sac, and deliberately =
tried=20
to.&nbsp; It was someone impressive, should of had someone take a =
picture to=20
send in to John's Burnout Page.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000=20
size=3D2>--------------------------------------------------------<BR>Joe =

Sherbanenko<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:jcrash7@geocities.com">jcrash7@geocities.com</A><BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.tripod.com/~jcrash7">http://members.tripod.com/~jc=
rash7</A><BR>--------------------------------------------------------</FO=
NT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_007C_01BDE404.75914A20--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 17:26:47 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Unilite Conversions

Thomas P. Smith wrote:

>    Greg,
>
>     It helps immensly.  Thanks.  What kind of distributor shaft tolerances
> will the Unilite Conversion handle?  The Pertronix requires most of the end
> play to be removed from the distributor.  I'm guessing the distributor should
> be rebuilt to remove end and side play on the distributor shaft.  Correct?
> How much is allowable?  Also, what specific performance improvements did you
> notice in the Unilite conversion?
>
> Thomas P. Smith

Thomas,

The Uni-Lite conversion is essentially a photocell that is triggered by a
shutter wheel mounted below the rotor.  It would take an awful lot of
end play to lift the shutter wheel out of the beam.  Stock end play
tolerance is acceptable.  Side play should of course be kept to a
minimum.  Although by its design, I would think that side play
would not have as much adverse effect with the Uni-Lite as would
be with points.  Never the less, replace the bushings and/or shaft if
there is excessive wear.
As for specific improvements, I can't really say. As the Uni-Lite was
added when I did several major changes to the engine.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 19:37:26 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: overview

To all:
Seriously, being relatively new to the list I find there are a fine group
of people on it. I like to think I am reasonably bright about cars in
general, but there is a vast amount of collective knowledge on this list,
which I could never accumulate on my own. I know we bend the rules a tad
but I also believe a little humor keeps it interesting. At home I have a (S
something, forgot the key initials) who keeps me in line. Greg, you do a
good job, glad you have to baby-sit and not I. Something good here, hope it
keeps on coming. As Ben F. said "We all have to hang together, or we'll all
hang separately. For our neighbors to the North, Last name, Franklin. Keep
it up, good thing here!
Thanks again Greg, we appreciate it all. If we get out of line, step on us!
no majordomo, no list worth a ****.

Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
67 442 all orig.
75 CS same way

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1495
*********************************

[begin second Digest 1495]

Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1495


oldsmobile-digest     Sunday, September 20 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1495



overview
Re: 84's 307 struggling
Re: Rust on Toro top
More Olds on TV
Wanted: Console part
Fwd: High Rev's and W's
Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines
Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms
Re: Windshield prices (was Windshield Antennas)
Re: Wanted: Console part
Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms
Used Car Values - Anyone believe ~this!~
Re: Used Car Values - Anyone believe ~this!~
I'm stumped - Need the Olds GURU assistance
Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines
Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines
Re: Rust on Toro top
Re: 455 block needed
Re: Unilite Conversions
Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines
Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines
Insurance via net...
Re: Insurance via net...
Re: shipping
400 'E' block/ 425block
Re: 455 block needed
Re: Unilite Conversions
exaust manifolds
Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms
Re: ADMIN: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms
Re: Used Car Values - Anyone believe ~this!~
Re: Insurance via net...
Re: I'm stumped - Need the Olds GURU assistance
Re: ADMIN: Not Nearly Auto Related-Auto Acronyms and SOM emmisions
Re: Fwd: High Rev's and W's
Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines
Reply to Bob was: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines
Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines
Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines
Re: exaust manifolds
Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3
SOM emmisions
Re: More Olds on TV
Re: tranny jumps between 2nd and 3rd
Re: Radio
RE: Insurance via net...
Coil failure and MSD ?
is this thing on?
Re: SOM emmisions
scary stuff
Re: Coil failure and MSD ?
Alternator and Voltage Regulator
Re: Oil Smoke!!!
Dual Cats
Re: Coil failure and MSD ?
Re: SOM emmisions
14x7 Chrome SS1 Q
Re: I'm stumped - Need the Olds GURU assistance

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 19:37:26 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: overview

To all:
Seriously, being relatively new to the list I find there are a fine group
of people on it. I like to think I am reasonably bright about cars in
general, but there is a vast amount of collective knowledge on this list,
which I could never accumulate on my own. I know we bend the rules a tad
but I also believe a little humor keeps it interesting. At home I have a (S
something, forgot the key initials) who keeps me in line. Greg, you do a
good job, glad you have to baby-sit and not I. Something good here, hope it
keeps on coming. As Ben F. said "We all have to hang together, or we'll all
hang separately. For our neighbors to the North, Last name, Franklin. Keep
it up, good thing here!
Thanks again Greg, we appreciate it all. If we get out of line, step on us!
no majordomo, no list worth a ****.

Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
67 442 all orig.
75 CS same way

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 17:53:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 84's 307 struggling

- ---Joe S <jcrash7@geocities.com> wrote:

 I've also noticed a "clicking" sound coming from the engine, but
that's been there since the beginning of summer.

- -----Ah, seems as you've developed the "Olds click".....


 Another weird occurance today, I actually got the car to burnout.
I've spun the tires before on slick surfaces, but I actually backed
out to the middle of our coul-de-sac, and deliberately tried to.  It
was someone impressive, should of had someone take a picture to send
in to John's Burnout Page.

- -----Uh....just remember that next time...ok :)
                  Sman
==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 20:55:08 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Rust on Toro top

SpeedCom@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 9/19/98
>  6:<BR36:<BR17 PM Central Daylight Tim, smithtp@ix.netcom.com writes:
>
> >     I need a little education.  It seems to me that if the bad metal on the
> > roof
> >  is cut out and new metal welded in and properly coated, the repair should
> be
> > as
> >  permanent as the rest of the roof.  Enlighten me
>
> I'm sorry, I am not the one to enlighten. I was relaying what I'd heard from
> an experienced body man. He said that even if you welded in new metal (which
> means the expense of a new headliner also), the weld itself is an
> encouragement to rust. he said that the only thing that would keep the rust 
at
> bay was galvanizing, and paint woulnd't stick to *that*.

    Okay, one thought, though.  Wouldn't it be possible to grind the weld and
fill the joint with body solder like they did in the old days?  I know Eastwood
sells body solder and supplies.  Lead is about as inert a substance as you can
get so it definitely will not rust. Also, since it has been used for body work
in the past before newer paint formulas, I'd think it should take paint, too.
As for galvanizing, I know many newer cars, like my parents '92 Caprice (I
forgive them for owning a Chevy because they gave me my Cutlass!) have
galvanized body panels from the factory.  I'm sure the paint would be pricey,
but it should be possible to paint.  Am I missing something?

    Just thinking out loud.  I hope my naiveté on this topic is not boring the
list.

    Thomas P. Smith
    1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 20:04:12 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: More Olds on TV

Hmm...   Watching Lethal Weapon 2 right now..  On NBC, so the dialog is a bit,
umm, off...  "They ~freak~ you in the drive through...."  Hmph.  Anyway, keep
noticing all the h*ll that poor Cutlass Cruiser keeps taking...  AND STILL
GOING!!!  :)  Hee hee...


- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 22:16:08 EDT
From: MrExMt@aol.com
Subject: Wanted: Console part

Hi all
Was wondering if any one had the square  plastic light bezel lense for the
rear of a '68 4 speed console in good condition for sale? Please let me know.
Thank you
Leigh Tenenholtz
mrexmt@aol.com
'68 Cutlass S Convert

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 22:08:57 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Fwd: High Rev's and W's

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- --part0_906257338_boundary
Content-ID: <0_906257338@inet_out.mail.aol.com.1>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII


- --part0_906257338_boundary
Content-ID: <0_906257338@inet_out.mail.aol.com.2>
Content-type: message/rfc822
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
Content-disposition: inline

From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Return-path: <CPEARLPARK@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: High Rev's and W's
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 21:37:02 EDT
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

New member here, not a mechanic, just love the cars. Ignorant, but trying to
learn...Picked up my 71 442 convertible on Saturday. Bought it in Maine 6
weeks ago, but didn't make it home to Mass. Had the motor rebuilt and now runs
great, BUT... The guy who rebuilt it said he thought I must have a 4.11 rear
end because the engine (455) revs real high on the highway. At 60 mph, sounds
like it's working hard (no tach). He said it was built for take-off and is not
a highway car. Does this mean I have to limit top speed to 60-65 when I do
take it on the highway?

Also, can I get a rundown on the W's (as in W-30, etc.)? Don't know what they
mean, don't know for sure what I have.  TIA, Scott.

- --part0_906257338_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 22:19:50 EDT
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines

Am rebuilding a '66 442 engine, and have a set of new std 425 forged pistons
I'd like to use. These are 4-1/8" bore as compared to the 400 motor's 4" bore.

Some folks say that it's easy to take the 400 'E' block out to 425 by boring
as this is exactly what the factory did to make a 425. Same block and crank,
bigger pistons.

Other folks say that you shouldn't go that big, that .060 over is as big as
they'd go.

Well, what's the answer?

Did the 425 blocks have any differences in cooling jackets, or more metal in
the bores or any other mods to allow them to use the bigger pistons? Anybody
out there got a 400 punched to 425? Any overheating problems or broken blocks?

Inquiring minds want to know...

Peter
Coupeking

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 22:20:28 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms

FORD
Fix Or Repair Daily!....NOT TRUE!!!!....I fix or repair my wifes '66 Mustang
two or three times a day...:)....Olds content....I drive the reliable '65 Olds
to AutoZone to get the parts!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 22:25:51 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: Windshield prices (was Windshield Antennas)

'Having mine (71 4-4-2) done Monday. The price is $261, fully covered by
insurance. 'No chips or cracks, just old and impossible to see through in the
sun, but the insurance guy led me into explaining it as rock damage and
covered it.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 20:34:12 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted: Console part

> Was wondering if any one had the square  plastic light bezel lense for the
> rear of a '68 4 speed console in good condition for sale? Please let me 
know.

Umm... Does the auto's console have the same piece?  I ~might~ have a lead, if
so...  maybe.

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 22:43:55 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms

This is Collyn's wife-
Just ask him WHICH car ( My mustang or his Olds) broke down today and is
sqirting oil all over, whenever you give it the gas.
Melissa (Love you Collyn)  ; )

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 21:04:22 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Used Car Values - Anyone believe ~this!~

First, go here:
http://www.kbb.com/

Then click on "Used Car Values"
Then, "What's my car worth?"
Select 1983, then Oldsmobile  (of course)
Then Cutlass Calais Coupe 2D

With me so far?  It won't let me link directly to that page :(

OK, ~NOW~ click on V8-307, give it ~5000~ miles, enter any zip code, and then
load it up accordingly.  Click ~all~ options on the left column, give it
AM/FM/Cassette, T-Bar roof, and Premium Wheels.

Call it "Excellent", and then Submit it...

Can you believe?????  I'll take two!

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 21:23:49 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Used Car Values - Anyone believe ~this!~

Oldsmagnet wrote:
>
> First, go here:
> http://www.kbb.com/

Then go back and make it a diesel!!!!  Try that with a "real" car on there...
i.e. 1981 Cutlass Supreme, 2D Coupe, Air, Tilt, PS, poorly loaded, realistic
miles...  Any condition, give it a V6, then go back, and try again with the
diesel...  Yikes!

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 23:25:44 EDT
From: MARKSJ@aol.com
Subject: I'm stumped - Need the Olds GURU assistance

Hi Guys,

About two weeks ago I asked for your help regarding alternator questions.  The
amperage guage would not go above O, and the generator light would only go out
if the engine was reved to about 3000 (amp guage still only goes to zero).

When lights are on guage drops...  I have replaced the alternator, the voltage
regulator and thought I would replace the battery.  Took the battery in to be
tested and they advised it is ok.  I'm stumped... I am mechanically a big time
rookie... Is it time to take her to a real mechanic?

Car in question is a 71 Cutlass Supreme convertible with a 350.  Thanks in
advance for any assistance...

Joel Marks
71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
81 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
marksj@aol.com
Burlington, Ont. Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 20:20:49 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines

COUPEKING@aol.com wrote:

> Am rebuilding a '66 442 engine, and have a set of new std 425 forged pistons
> I'd like to use. These are 4-1/8" bore as compared to the 400 motor's 4" 
bore.
>
> Some folks say that it's easy to take the 400 'E' block out to 425 by boring
> as this is exactly what the factory did to make a 425. Same block and crank,
> bigger pistons.
>
> Other folks say that you shouldn't go that big, that .060 over is as big as
> they'd go.
>
> Well, what's the answer?
>
> Did the 425 blocks have any differences in cooling jackets, or more metal in
> the bores or any other mods to allow them to use the bigger pistons? Anybody
> out there got a 400 punched to 425? Any overheating problems or broken 
blocks?
>
> Inquiring minds want to know...
>
> Peter
> Coupeking

 Peter,
Although the 1965-1967 400 and 425 used the same crank and rods,
the blocks are different castings.  The maximum overbore
recommended by Oldsmobile is .060.  I've heard of guys using
the 425 pistons before, but if it were mine, I'd sure want to have
the cylinders sonic checked for thickness.  Excessively thin
cylinder walls will lead to overheating due to less material to
dissipate the heat.  Thin cylinder walls will also distort much
easier, resulting in poor ring seal.  You would want to at least
use torque plates when boring and honing the cylinders
(This should always be done on an Olds engine anyway).
If this is a (drag) race only engine, I would recommend you
use a water jacket filler available from Hard Blok, Moroso, etc.
However, if this is a driver, cruiser, etc., I would
rather sacrifice the few cubic inches gained than compromise
longevity.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 00:01:50 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines

Some folks say that it's easy to take the 400 'E' block out to 425 by
boring
as this is exactly what the factory did to make a 425. Same block and
crank,
bigger pistons.
__________

Well, the early 400 and the 425 definitely use different block castings (B
(65) or E (66-7) and D, respectively), so I doubt this is true.  It _may_
be possible to take the early 400 out to 4.125", but you'd need to get the
cylinder walls ultrasonic tested.  I've actually contemplated doing this so
I can build an E block 455 for my 66 convert.  I'd love for it to remain a
numbers-matching car.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 23:53:57 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Rust on Toro top

 He said that even if you welded in new metal (which
means the expense of a new headliner also), the weld itself is an
encouragement to rust. he said that the only thing that would keep the rust
at
bay was galvanizing, and paint woulnd't stick to *that*.
___________

Sorry, I have to disagree.  A properly welded patch, which is then prepped
and painted on both sides, will be no more susceptible to rust than the
virgin metal.  The key is that you need to clean and paint the backside in
addition to the frontside.  Note that 3M makes a weld-through primer for
installing patch panels in locations where the backside is inaccessable.
You simply prep the backside of the panels and shoot with the 3M primer
before welding.  The paint is loaded with aluminum (I think), which allows
it to be conductive.  I would still try to glop on some P.O.R -15 on the
backside, however.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 23:34:57 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 455 block needed

Got this from the Pontiac NG (never know when or where an Olds will show up
:-) Anyone have a block for sale?

Cheers/Carron

Subject: Need 455 block!
________________

Uh, I suspect that he's looking for a 455 Pontiac block, not an Olds.  And,
yes, they are completely different.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 23:46:54 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Unilite Conversions

Although should
you have a failure with it, it would be very easy to reinstall the points
and condenser and be on your way.
_______________

Back in the mid 70s, when electronic ignition conversions were just coming
on the market, I installed a Borg Warner optoelectric conversion kit in the
distributor of my 68 VC (425 powered).  Hall effect systems were also on
the market, but I for some reason trusted the optoelectic system more.  The
BW kit I used looked just like the Mallory conversion kit.  I _did_ have
trouble with the kit (again, this was a very early system) and was forced
to reinstall the old points (kept in the glovebox for just such an
occasion).  I had to do this behind my dorm, in a no-parking zone, so
needless to say I did it in record time.  I had no tools other than a
screwdriver and used a matchbook cover to set the gap (it's close enough -
remember this trick).  That was good enough to get me from Boston to
Worcester and to a set of real tools and a dwell meter.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 21:30:00 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines

Along this same thread - what constitutes the differences between these 400
castings (66-67) and the 68 big block casting?  I had been told by other
'67 400 motor owners that there is more metal in the casting for boring out
(having lived through a .90 bored over 454 once, I understand the heat
dissipation theory first hand).

I have the '67 400 I'll be putting in my wagon and this subject interests me.



Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible,  '72
Vista Cruiser, '80 GMC

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 21:43:12 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines

At 09:30 PM 9/19/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Along this same thread - what constitutes the differences between these 400
>castings (66-67) and the 68 big block casting?  I had been told by other
>'67 400 motor owners that there is more metal in the casting for boring out
>(having lived through a .90 bored over 454 once, I understand the heat
>dissipation theory first hand).
>
>I have the '67 400 I'll be putting in my wagon and this subject interests me.

I know the lifter bank angle is different for the '66.
45 degrees vs 39 degrees for later engines.
cams for the 45 degree engines are hard to find.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 23:00:09 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Insurance via net...

Anyone ever done one of those online quotes?  I spent about an hour on INSweb (
http:www.insweb.com ) filling out vehicle information, then another fifteen
minutes for personal statistics...  Only to get to a screen saying:

> Please accept our apologies.
> Currently, there are no participating insurance companies able to provide
> you a quote.  Your eligibility for quotes is based on how companies evaluate
> your specific situation, and the number of participating companies in your
> state. New companies are being added steadily; please check back soon.

Umm...  Couldn't they have figured that out ~before~ I spend an hour enterring
in five cars???  :)

<RANT MODE off>

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 22:06:54 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Insurance via net...

At 11:00 PM 9/19/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Anyone ever done one of those online quotes?

I did this with Geico, and was told "you will recieve a quote
via e-mail within 48 hours" :(

I just used the phone at that point.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 00:49:39 -0500
From: John Foster <jdfoster@n-link.com>
Subject: Re: shipping

Brett,

	Try AMTRAC package express.  I sent a 200 lb xmsn from Texas to calf.
for $52.00 .  Central Freight wanted $175.00.  Check them out.

						John



Brett Wilson wrote:
>
> What is the best way to ship a rear-end half way across the U.S.?
> I am in Texas and it is in NC, the cheapest I can find is a little
> under $200.
> Does any one know of a good company to use for this?
> Consolidated freight is the company that wanted the $200.
> TIA!
> >Brett
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 02:25:42 EDT
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: 400 'E' block/ 425block

Joe and Greg-

I appreciate your feelings about putting these bigger pistons into the 400
block, but I'm looking for more data.
Wasn't the GM corporate edict in '66-7 that 'No engines greater than 400" '
were to be installed into the midsize bodies? Since they couldn't put the 425
into the 442, wouldn't the cheapest and easiest (read GM Corp) way be to just
lightly modify an existing block? Take a 425 block and leave a little extra
meat in the cylinder liner?
To modify the water passages between the blocks would require much more
expense for a limited application motor like the 400, and I bet it wasn't
done.

I'll bet that the only difference between the 425 and 400 blocks is the amount
of meat in the cylinder. I'll bet that the cooling passages between the
cylinders of a 425 and a 400 are identical.

Anybody got a cracked or broken 400 block or a 425? Be interesting to cross
section one of these and look.

Peter
Coupeking

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 02:23:24 -0400
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: 455 block needed

I have a 425 block out of a 66 Dynamic 88. Also 2bbl intake and carb.
heads, pistons w/rods and caps. No crank, no cam, no main caps. Block is
rusted evenly, all over. If anyone wants this stuff, just come and get it.
I'll never use it and I gotta get it out of here sooner or later. My
Dynamic had a 455 in it that someone put in before I got the car so I built
that motor instead. Not going for stock obviously. If your interested I'm
in North eastern PA. e-mail me directly at:
rkn@ezaccess.net.		R. Kevin Noon
				66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
				85 Delta 88 Royal (urban assault vehicle)

- ----------
> From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 455 block needed
> Date: Saturday, September 19, 1998 11:34 PM
>
> Got this from the Pontiac NG (never know when or where an Olds will show
up
> :-) Anyone have a block for sale?
>
> Cheers/Carron
>
> Subject: Need 455 block!
> ________________
>
> Uh, I suspect that he's looking for a 455 Pontiac block, not an Olds.
And,
> yes, they are completely different.
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 70 W-30
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 02:58:48 -0400
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: Unilite Conversions

Here's something to think about with light sensing distributor set ups. If
this is strictly a race car or show car that only goes out in nice weather.
then thats fine. But if this is a daily driver, don't be suprised if on
cool damp days the car runs poorly...or not at all. This is due to
condensation refracting the light beam. Try diagnosing that one when it
happens. Car starts...runs fine for the first few minutes then either
starts missing or stops altogether. 10 min.s later repeats the cycle.
Been there many moons ago with a 68 AMX....not 
fun.             				
                                            Just something to think about.
				R. Kevin Noon
				66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
				85 Delta 88 Royal (Urban assault vehicle)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 03:06:24 -0400
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: exaust manifolds

Anyone here remember the name of the place that was remanufacturing the "W"
and "X" type exaust manifolds? I remember them saying that the first ones
would be available around this time and I need to get in touch with them.
Any help is appreciated.
					R. Kevin Noon
					rkn@ezaccess.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 03:40:57 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms

Here are three variations on the acronym theme...

Ford>F**ked Over Redone Dodge

Ford spelled backwards>Driver Returned On Foot

This one is a little different. Read across first then down
to see how Chevy named their version of the car.

Nova
Omega
Ventura
Apollo

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 03:47:28 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms

Greg,
Sorry about my reply to the acronym post, it was at the top of
my mail. Reading my mail at 3:30 in the morning.

Kevin White

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 03:58:38 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: Used Car Values - Anyone believe ~this!~

Charley,

Kevin White here, I found the Blue Book about weeks ago when my
wife and I were hunting for prices on a used car for her. Type in all
info for my 83 cutlass Supreme Brougham with (mind you all after-
market acc.)alloy wheels, CD player, etc., plus my full boat of factory
options. Then came the mileage...250,000.
                       Blue Book returned
                   Trade in value (not that I would)
                             $680.00
you know what they can do with their appraisal.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 04:00:27 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: Insurance via net...

Charley,
Kevin again. Been there done that too. Same reply

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 08:47:03 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: I'm stumped - Need the Olds GURU assistance

On Sat, 19 Sep 1998 MARKSJ@aol.com wrote:
> About two weeks ago I asked for your help regarding alternator questions.  
The
> amperage guage would not go above O, and the generator light would only go 
out
> if the engine was reved to about 3000 (amp guage still only goes to zero).
> When lights are on guage drops...  I have replaced the alternator, the 
voltage
> regulator and thought I would replace the battery.  Took the battery in to be
> tested and they advised it is ok.  I'm stumped... I am mechanically a big 
time
> rookie... Is it time to take her to a real mechanic?

I'm no guru, but my '68 did the exact same thing this spring. Turned out
to be the voltage regulator. Since you've replaced it already, I'd suspect
2 things: either the new one is also bad, or you have a bad connection in
the harness or regulator connector itself. Did you try jiggling the wires
when the car is idling to see if the gen light goes out?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 07:53:10 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Not Nearly Auto Related-Auto Acronyms and SOM emmisions

In a message dated 98-09-19 19:47:54 EDT, you write:

<< it's a colossal waste of space and time. >>

<<<<< no majordomo, no list worth a ****. >>>>>

I wish you guys would go back to spelling 4 4 2!

Actually, Greg monitors the majordummy and skims (I hope he just skims) the
topics to check for content.

With the "names" thread recently, all I can say is hear, hear!

Please keep me from breaking my delete key!

Because of late, that is all I have been using.

Fortunately, Ken Snyder, away most of he past week missed a lot of non-Olds
traffic.

OLDS related:
Five hours of labor.
$45 or less out of pocket and SOM has a new/old singlr exhaust so solid I can
leave the dual project until the spring.

PLEASE create a new subject heading if you reply to this.
If you know a workaround to the law about adding/removing cats, please contact
me or post. I am gonna try to access the exact wordage online or at the
library, where they got losa stuff like this.

It IS my intention to put dual cats on my 1965 car unless I am absolutely
stonewalled by that federal law. (No workarounds).

Thanks much
SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 07:58:32 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Fwd: High Rev's and W's

>Does this mean I have to limit top speed to 60-65 when I do
> take it on the highway?
>
> Also, can I get a rundown on the W's (as in W-30, etc.)? Don't know what they
> mean, don't know for sure what I have.  TIA, Scott.

You're learning fast.  Actually, if you have a deep rear gear,
(assuming  it's factory and not aftermarket) it's more likely to be a
3.91 or 4.33.  But, you never know without actually checking.  If it
revs high, then it's obvious you probably shouldn't take the rpm's to
the stratosphere and leave it.  But, there's nothing wrong with the
occasional blast down the quarter mile...hee hee.  If it bothers you too
much, I suggest you try and find something like a 3.08 or 3.23 rear end
to put under there.  It will definitely lower your cruising rpms, but
you may suffer a little on the takeoffs.   The speedo would need to be
calibrated too.  If you have A/C, then the current rear gears are NOT
factory installed.  3.23 was the deepest they went with A/C gears on the
442.

W-machines....easy to tell if yours is or isn't.  If it IS a W-30, when
you get out of the car, watch out you don't catch your jacket on one of
the dual sport mirrors.  Now look at the side of the car.   W-30 die
cast badge would be located under the "442" on the fender.  Sits in the
middle of a wide accent stripe.  Under the fiberglas, scooped hood, you
would have red plastic inner fender wells, and an otherwise stock
looking aluminum intake, and ram air setup and "H" heads.  The VIN also
should start with "344671M" (If no "M", it's NOT a W-30 since they all
were made in Lansing)  I forget the carb and dist. numbers off hand, but
they were special numbers.  I guess I'm just to lazy to get up and go
look.  :)  If you need the numbers, I'll look them up.  Auto trannies
were coded "OW" on a tag on the passenger side of the transmission.
Check to see if the last 6 of your vin is stamped on the driver's side
of the tranny if it's there.  This would verify if they match.  If your
car has factory A/C, required W-30 options were the auto tranny and 3.23
rear gears, and power front disc brakes from the factory.

If your car has this stuff, it's more likely a W-30.  I say more likely,
because if it has all the stuff, it COULD have been added, although
expensive.  It can't be a W-31, because for ONE, it's a 442 (w-31 only
came with 68-70 F-85/Cutlass), and TWO, the W-31 never went to
production in '71.  If you can find the build sheet, it would be a huge
benefit for verification.  Even if it's NOT a W-Machine, it's still way
cool.  Enjoy it.

Hope this helps.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 08:20:53 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines

In a message dated 98-09-19 23:33:09 EDT, you write:

<< Am rebuilding a '66 442 engine, and have a set of new std 425 forged
pistons I'd like to use. These are 4-1/8" bore as compared to the 400 motor's
4" bore.

 Some folks say that it's easy to take the 400 'E' block out to 425 by boring
as this is exactly what the factory did to make a 425. Same block and crank,
bigger pistons.

 Other folks say that you shouldn't go that big, that .060 over is as big as
they'd go. >>

How much of an overbore do you truly need?

If I recall 400 cid has a 4.000 inch bore while 425 is 4.125 (or if I am
wrong, the difference is similarly SIGNIFICANT).

Sell or return your 425 pistons and get ones for a 400 overbore from Joe
Mondello or somewhere. Or get a 425 block for those pistons. Actually, if
those are flat 425 pistons for an overbore I might be interested.

Sometime before I die I might condescent to overboring my engine a second time
(the first has not happened yet). The second overbore WILL give me a total of
442 cubic inch displacement. Oh yes. It will!

SOM  <----  425 and loving every moment!
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 08:25:41 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Reply to Bob was: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines

In a message dated 98-09-20 00:53:58 EDT, you write:

<< I know the lifter bank angle is different for the '66. 45 degrees vs 39
degrees for later engines. Cams for the 45 degree engines are hard to find. >>

Too true!

But!

39 degree motors were available in 1966-7. They have that drilling thing on
the shelf in front of the motor.

The toro motors with this also have the big (expensive) lifters. Money might
be saved in long run by providing cam specs to an outfit that will grind.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 07:55:56 -0500
From: John Foster <jdfoster@n-link.com>
Subject: Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines

Folks,

	I have used standard olds 350 pistons which are 4.057 and they work
well.  I do consider this extreme I would rather go .030
than .057 on my first over bore.


					John

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 08:52:32 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines

In a message dated 98-09-20 08:43:55 EDT, you write:

<< 	I have used standard olds 350 pistons which are 4.057 and they work
 well.  I do consider this extreme I would rather go .030
 than .057 on my first over bore. >>

Karl is NOT slamming anyone.

Karl just want to alert to dangers.

Piston must fit overbore.
Or rod is history.

Oversize (even 0.005-0.010) rings are not enough.
A significant difereence can result in your piston getting cocked (an
appropriate word in this case) in the cylinder, catching, and of course, SNAP!
after that!.

For that matter new wrist pins are good idea for new pistons.

For new (possibly flat) pistons contact Chris Witt at

wittchri@pilot.msu.edu (Chris Brown Witt)

Be alert to necesary tolerances!
They exist for a reason.

And "Be careful out there!"
Please?

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 08:02:03 -0500
From: "John Kreitzer" <john.kreitzer@gte.net>
Subject: Re: exaust manifolds

It was Jim Chermack and his E-Mail address is chermac@exis.net

John

- -----Original Message-----
From: rkn <rkn@ezaccess.net>
To: olds list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, September 20, 1998 2:08 AM
Subject: exaust manifolds


>Anyone here remember the name of the place that was remanufacturing the "W"
>and "X" type exaust manifolds? I remember them saying that the first ones
>would be available around this time and I need to get in touch with them.
>Any help is appreciated.
> R. Kevin Noon
> rkn@ezaccess.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 09:44:36 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3

Lou, does not overlap occur at TDC, when neither lobe is up?  This would
yield closed valves.  Peter (More than once wrong, willing to stand
corrected) .
- -----Original Message-----
From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, September 19, 1998 7:25 PM
Subject: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3


>Peter,
>You said put cyn. on valve overlap, wouldn't that keep both valves open? I
>think you want TDC with that particular cylinder in firing position. Not a
>flame, been burnt before. Take care.
>Lou Biggs
>lbiggs@intertek.net
>in old St. Lou

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 07:02:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: SOM emmisions

- ---KarlAune@aol.com wrote:
 It IS my intention to put dual cats on my 1965 car unless I am
absolutely
> stonewalled by that federal law. (No workarounds).


- ----Uh....morning.....am I still asleep or what?!?!? Are the laws up
there now requiring cats on cars not originally equipped with them?
               Sman
==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 10:21:05 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: More Olds on TV

Oldsmagnet wrote:
>
> Hmm...   Watching Lethal Weapon 2 right now..  On NBC, so the dialog is a 
bit,
> umm, off...  "They ~freak~ you in the drive through...."  Hmph.  Anyway, keep
> noticing all the h*ll that poor Cutlass Cruiser keeps taking...  AND STILL
> GOING!!!  :)  Hee hee...

Yeah, I know what you mean.  Watched Lethal Weapon 3 the other night and
noticed they were parked next to one of those aero back Cutli.

- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 05:39:24 -0700
From: Mr Ada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: tranny jumps between 2nd and 3rd

Have you checked out the modulator?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 11:09:12 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Re: Radio

Looking for a AM/FM (not stereo) radio for my 71 442.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 09:14:18 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Insurance via net...

Charley,
As a result of my work, I know the system here. What's going
on is that insweb is the functional equivalent of an agent for
several insurers. They can't insure you themselves. They
are not an agent. They think of themselves more like a
supermarket, but since insurance requires acceptance of
both parties (company & customer), it's not as easy as
amazon.com.

The deal is that insurers are looking for ways to deliver the
product cheaper. They're trying to lower selling costs since
agents get 20-ish % off the top every year  (calculate this for
yourself and ask yourself whether you get this much service
every year...).

Insurer systems departments are not quite up to programing
their underwriting (customer selection) rules or their
pricing rules. So Insweb steps ups and says "Hey, I'll program
the rules and prices for a bunch of companies, then collect
a much smaller service fee per transaction as compared to
agents." Good in theory, but in your case there wasn't a body
present to say, in effect, "None of the companies we work with
would be interested in insuring you". You wasted some time, but
knowing the people, I think they really were sorry.

It's gonna take a while before the insurers are as sharp as banks,
but they'll get there. Wouldn't it be cool if we found preapproved
insurance applications in our mailboxes as often as we find
preapproved credit card applications?

Anybody want to know more?, write.

Olds Content:
Spent all day yesterday adding bumpers, lights, trim and so
forth back on the Starfire. It's really coming together. With the
paint as a backdrop, all the trim looks terrific. Today I begin
the conversion to power windows. I'm guessing this will
be a high hour investment job. Fun. I've never done this
before.

cheers,
cf



> Subject: Insurance via net...
>
> Anyone ever done one of those online quotes?  I spent about
> an hour on INSweb ( http:www.insweb.com ) filling out vehicle
> information, then another fifteen> minutes for personal statistics
> ...  Only to get to a screen saying:
>
> Please accept our apologies.
> Currently, there are no participating insurance companies
> able to provide you a quote.  Your eligibility for quotes is based on
how
> companies evaluate your specific situation, and the number of
participating
> companies in your state. New companies are being added steadily;
please check
> back soon.
>
> Umm...  Couldn't they have figured that out ~before~ I spend
> an hour enterring in five cars???  :)
 off>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 10:51:17 -0700
From: mitzm@earthlink.net
Subject: Coil failure and MSD ?

Does anybody know if the MSD boxes are hard on coils?  I've had two coils
crap out since I put an MSD 5 on my 70 CS about 4 years ago.  Never happend
before.  Since the MSD causes "multiple" (anybody know how many?) spark
discharges per  ignition it would stand to reason that coil life might be
shortened proportionately.

The first coil to crap out was a generic replacement.  This last one was an
Accel super coil, only 6 months old.  Do the MSD coils hold up better?  The
directions that came with the MSD 5 box make no mention of shorter coil
life or recommending the use of MSD coils.

What gives?  Is it the MSD box or something else that's killing my coils?
The coil seems to get really hot.  Does relocating it to the firewall help?

Hans in El Segundo


Mitzm@mail.earthlink.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 10:30:09 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: is this thing on?

uh did I inadvertantly u-sub this list? if so pleez resub me .....kk

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 13:51:05 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: SOM emmisions

In a message dated 98-09-20 10:04:17 EDT, you write:

<< It IS my intention to put dual cats on my 1965 car unless I am
 absolutely
 > stonewalled by that federal law. (No workarounds).


 ----Uh....morning.....am I still asleep or what?!?!? Are the laws up
 there now requiring cats on cars not originally equipped with them?
                Sman  >>

It is my understanding that it is illegal to change the number of cat's put on
a car..plus or minus. I was told the law said the quantity can not be changed.
There is no wording about "you can add to" Maybe the shops are full of it. I
kinda doubt it though. Makes Government sense. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 15:06:16 -0500 (EST)
From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu>
Subject: scary stuff

Hello all...

Well... I was awakened at about 3 this morning by a clicking sound outside
the front door (I live in an apartement and have taken lately to sleeping
on the couch in the living room to take full advantage of the a/c).
Wasn't sure what the sound was... was worried that it might be somebudy
screwing around with my '65 parked right out in front.  Went to the door
and looked out the peephole... didn't see anything.  Hit the outside
light... and all of a sudden I could see a swat team member in full gear
whom I'd just scared the bejeezus out of... waving at me to turn the light
out... at this point I was starting to worry.  I turned the porch light
back out... sat back down on the couch and waited to see what happened.
About an hour later a local cop came around to tell me and my roommate to
evacuate to the other part of the complex... I asked... "what the hell's
going on?"  He informed me that one of my neighbors upstairs was drunk,
had shot and killed another neighbor on the steps... and that now he had
barricaded himself into his apartment with his gun collection.  Me and my
roommate followed the cop around to another part of the complex... where
we waited for over another hour and a half for the police's poorly planned
operation to go into effect... there were police... swat team...
everywhere... from where they had us standing behind a brick area where
stray bullets couldn't find there way, but we had a plain view of the body
of the dead guy... right in front of my Rover.  They had a sheet over
him... but the sheet was beginning to turn red from the blood.  I was
definitely a little nervous by this point.  The police set up their
floodlights... tossed a tear-gas bomb in through the bedroom window in
back and then broke the guy's door down and managed to safely take him
into custody.  It took them another half hour to get the crime scene
checked... cleaned up... and the body taken away... then we were allowed
to return to our apartments... took a close look at the Rover... it was
ok... no stray bullets or anything... but they had the area right in front
of the car blocked off where the dead guy had been laying.  I had met the
shooter before... sober he seemed just a friendly older veteran... but
everyone knew he was violent when he got drunk... which was too often.
This apartment complex has been steadily going downhill... it wasn't that
bad when I moved in... the police were rarely seen and everyone seemed to
get along pretty well... it's been getting bad though recently... my Rover
was even vandalized at one point (antennae ripped off, mirror attempted to
be ripped off too... but it is spring loaded).  This was just the last
straw though I'm thinking... I'm planning on going apartment (or house)
hunting at the beginning of the week.  Anways... just thought I'd share
this... still a little horrified... a little too close to home for me.



    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
 |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
 |  |  |
 |  |  |
 | / \ |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
 |/   \|
  \   /      1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
   \ /          (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
    |           http://www.442.com/pierce.html
	     1980 Rover 3500 SD1
		(215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/othercars.html
	     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
		(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/bonneville.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 15:03:29 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Coil failure and MSD ?

    Hans,

    The MSD website is  http://www.msdignition.com .  There's an e-mail link in
the troubleshooting section.  You might try throwing your problem their way to
see what they say.  I'd be interested to know what you find out because I've
been thinking of installing the MSD 6 in my car.  I already have the MSD
Blaster 2 coil. I do know this.  Heat is bad on a coil.  I'd try moving it to
the firewall.  You don't need external heat adding to the problem of internal
heat. Just a thought.

    The MSD 6 produces about 6 sparks at idle and low speeds. As the engine
speeds up the number of sparks decreases because there is less time for the
coil to charge. I assume the MSD 5 has similar characteristics.

    The paperwork that came with my MSD Blaster 2 coil specifies using the
supplied ballast resistor if using the MSD 5.  However, if you retained the
stock resistance wire in your installation it should not be necessary.  E-mail
MSD for confirmation.

    Hope this helps,

    Thomas P. Smith
    1971 Cutlass S 350

mitzm@earthlink.net wrote:

> Does anybody know if the MSD boxes are hard on coils?  I've had two coils
> crap out since I put an MSD 5 on my 70 CS about 4 years ago.  Never happend
> before.  Since the MSD causes "multiple" (anybody know how many?) spark
> discharges per  ignition it would stand to reason that coil life might be
> shortened proportionately.
>
> The first coil to crap out was a generic replacement.  This last one was an
> Accel super coil, only 6 months old.  Do the MSD coils hold up better?  The
> directions that came with the MSD 5 box make no mention of shorter coil
> life or recommending the use of MSD coils.
>
> What gives?  Is it the MSD box or something else that's killing my coils?
> The coil seems to get really hot.  Does relocating it to the firewall help?
>
> Hans in El Segundo
>
> Mitzm@mail.earthlink.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 15:14:02 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Alternator and Voltage Regulator

    Afternoon, Rocket Drivers:

    Got a few quick questions.  The alternator code for my car ('71
Cutlass S 350) is "DN."  Anybody know the amperage rating for that?  I
know the application is for A/C and power steering, so I'm guessing
around 55 amps.  Next, I don't know if the alternator is original.
Where would I look and what would the numbers be to make that
determination?

    Has anyone tried, or have knowledge about the quality of the
solid-state external voltage regulator replacements that J.C Whitney
sells?  When time comes to replace that, the solid-state sounds like a
neat way to go.

    Thanks for the input,

    Thomas P. Smith
    1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 15:13:27 -0400
From: ef01@sprynet.com
Subject: Re: Oil Smoke!!!

I just finished pulling the heads on my 425. I lapped the valves and
replaced the lifters what a difference. I think you should definately
replace the seals. My valve stem seals  were disinagrated the plastic was
very brittle. Many of the seals were in small pieces and some valves didn't
have any seals left. If you don't want to pull the heads a friend of mine
swears by putting surgical tubing in the spark plug hole then turning the
engine over to bring the piston up. The compressed surgical tubing holds
the valve. A good option if you don't have access to compressed air.

Erik Ferguson

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 16:04:23 -0400
From: "Gary J Couse" <gjcouse@mhonline.net>
Subject: Dual Cats

Huummm, I didn't realize there are restrictions on singular/dual Cats. Just
that they had to exist and function When I laid up the header dual exhaust
on Quincy, I mealy installed dual universal Cats into dual Flowmasters then
exiting the side just before the rear tires. I have chrome dual Pacesetter
tips just below the side rocker dam. I also took the original pumped fresh
air line and "T"ed it to feed air to both cats.

If you find any restriction info, please pass it along...

- ----Regards,

Gary.

Couse Custom

gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>


"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS









<>-----Original Message-----
<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of KarlAune@aol.com
<>Sent: Sunday, September 20, 1998 7:53 AM
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<>Subject: Re: ADMIN: Not Nearly Auto Related-Auto Acronyms and SOM
<>emmisions
<>
<>
<>In a message dated 98-09-19 19:47:54 EDT, you write:
<>
<><< it's a colossal waste of space and time. >>
<>
<><<<<< no majordomo, no list worth a ****. >>>>>
<>
<>I wish you guys would go back to spelling 4 4 2!
<>
<>Actually, Greg monitors the majordummy and skims (I hope he just
<>skims) the
<>topics to check for content.
<>
<>With the "names" thread recently, all I can say is hear, hear!
<>
<>Please keep me from breaking my delete key!
<>
<>Because of late, that is all I have been using.
<>
<>Fortunately, Ken Snyder, away most of he past week missed a lot
<>of non-Olds
<>traffic.
<>
<>OLDS related:
<>Five hours of labor.
<>$45 or less out of pocket and SOM has a new/old singlr exhaust so
<>solid I can
<>leave the dual project until the spring.
<>
<>PLEASE create a new subject heading if you reply to this.
<>If you know a workaround to the law about adding/removing cats,
<>please contact
<>me or post. I am gonna try to access the exact wordage online or at the
<>library, where they got losa stuff like this.
<>
<>It IS my intention to put dual cats on my 1965 car unless I am absolutely
<>stonewalled by that federal law. (No workarounds).
<>
<>Thanks much
<>SOM
<>&KA
<>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 16:21:30 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Coil failure and MSD ?

mitzm@earthlink.net wrote:
>
> Does anybody know if the MSD boxes are hard on coils?  I've had two coils
> crap out since I put an MSD 5 on my 70 CS about 4 years ago.  Never happend
> before.  Since the MSD causes "multiple" (anybody know how many?) spark
> discharges per  ignition it would stand to reason that coil life might be
> shortened proportionately.

Then, I would suggest buying an MSD coil. These are made for the kind of
treatment the MSD box puts it through. Also, did you change to an
internally regulated alternator like the FAQ suggests?


- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 16:39:20 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: SOM emmisions

In a message dated 98-09-20 10:04:17 EDT, you write:

<<  It IS my intention to put dual cats on my 1965 car unless I am absolutely
stonewalled by that federal law. (No workarounds).

  ----Uh....morning.....am I still asleep or what?!?!? Are the laws up
 there now requiring cats on cars not originally equipped with them?
                Sman  >>

According to the last person I communicated with, illegal to alter the total #
of cats on the car.

Ayone know where I can obtain a tool to do the mandrel bend to exh pipe?
After work I did t'other day... exh work seems easy!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 17:12:51 EDT
From: TheBlue67@aol.com
Subject: 14x7 Chrome SS1 Q

i have a question for all you guru's out there. i know that the all chrome
14x7 ss1 was only avaliable in 71. and i have been led to believe that you
could only order them on the sx model. is this correct? it seems to me that if
that was the case not many sets would be around (which there really are not).
but it seems to me that you could maybe get them on say W cars. so whats the
deal here???

just wanderin

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 15:45:09 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: I'm stumped - Need the Olds GURU assistance

> I'm no guru, but my '68 did the exact same thing this spring. Turned out
> to be the voltage regulator. Since you've replaced it already, I'd suspect
> 2 things: either the new one is also bad, or you have a bad connection

That's my first instinct, too.  (Gee, I guess if all the parts are good, it
~must~ be the wiring...:) Pay particular attention to the grounding points, 
they
can cause tons of grief.  Also check the ~condition~ of the terminals at the
alternator's plug, I've seen the deteriorate, too.

FWIW, an ex-girlfriend's ex-boyfriend (...) fancied hisself a mechanically
inclined individual...  Her Dart's battery kept dying.  He put two new 
batteries
in it, ~five~ new alternators, ~and~ a new regulator!  And, of course, it
~still~ didn't charge.  So, enter ~me~ in the picture...  Engine's coverred 
with
oil, as are ~all~ the surrounding areas, due to a prior engine failure, which
resulted in some garage putting a ~used~ 318 in it for over $2500...  That's
when things started going wrong.  I told her to quit paying them, and she
did...  So, I look at new regulator.  I notice the entire harness is 
~saturated~
with oil.  I wiggle it a bit...  engine idles down, voltmeter pops 
upeverythings
AOK.  Several hundred dollars later.....

Yes, I ~did~ talk her into selling that POS...  AND got her now husband into a
69 Cutlass...  There's hope for 'em :)

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1495
*********************************

