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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1455


oldsmobile-digest      Saturday, August 29 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1455



Re: Votes needed...
Re: Votes needed...
Paint code
Re: Charlotte Swap Meet
Re: Swap Meet
Paging Tom Lentz
RE: Paging Tom Lentz
Re: 72 H/O paint questions- Mad H/O owners
Re: Windshields.
RE: Paging Tom Lentz
Need Book.
Re: Swap Meet
72 BODY POSTS/RIVETS
Re: 72 BODY POSTS/RIVETS
86 Salon overheating update..........
Re: 86 Salon overheating update..........
Re: Charlotte Swap Meet
Re: 86 Salon overheating update..........
Re: Paint code
Re: 72 Gas Cap & antique plates
Re: New odometer for 72??
Norm Oil Pressure??
Re: decomputerization
Re: 72 BODY POSTS/RIVETS
Convertible vs. Hardtop Frames:1965
Re: will it work?(harmonic balancer)
Found; Cast Crank Pulley ????
Re: 2 bbl to 4 bbl Conversions; Whad'ya think?
Fuel Pump/Regulator/Line ?? (fwd)
Re: Norm Oil Pressure??
Re: Paint code
classified ads
Re: 72 BODY POSTS/RIVETS
Re: Speedo head
Re: Paint code
Re: Service Manual for '84 Cutlass
Re: Norm Oil Pressure??
Re: Convertible vs. Hardtop Frames:1965
Re: Decomputerization?
Re: decomputerization
Re: UPDATE aluminum heads!
Re: Decomputerization?
Re: 86 Salon overheating update..........2
Re: 86 Salon overheating update..........
Re: Mondello meet
70 W-31 authenticity
FS 1986 442
Mission Fast Street Impossible CAM-AM
Re: header for '70 442 (455/auto)
Re: 70 W-31 authenticity / m.rothe
Re: will it work?(harmonic balancer)
Re: 70 W-31 authenticity / m.rothe
Re: Paint code
Re: Norm Oil Pressure??
Re: Norm Oil Pressure??
Re: Norm Oil Pressure??
Re: Windshields.
Re: Paint code
Re: Norm Oil Pressure??
Re: Norm Oil Pressure??
What colors for '68 headlight buckets??
Re: Norm Oil Pressure??
Re: will it work?
403 Pilot Shaft Bearing
Re: Norm Oil Pressure??
Re: Norm Oil Pressure??
Re: will it work?
Re: Mondello meet
Re: Conv. Top Bow??
Water Pump

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 20:01:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Votes needed...

- ---Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com> wrote:
  And see it doing a
> small burnout on John's SuperOlds page!  Link shows an empty image,
and labels
> as a 69, but the ~car~ is there, anyway...

- ---Uh...did I miss something,the pics show up for me...are you not
getting them?
            john
==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 21:06:19 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Votes needed...

> ---Uh...did I miss something,the pics show up for me...are you not
> getting them?

Oops... Better clarify.  On Showroom4, the pic of the GTO is gone.  It shows up
in the info page, but the link is imageless, and the voter box shows it as a 50
Kustom mercury...  Don't want to vote for ~that~!!!

I e-mailed 'em to try and fix that...  fingers crossed...

They all show up fine on ~your~ page  :)

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 22:56:56 -0400
From: Bill & Beth <dickinson@skow.net>
Subject: Paint code

I am wondering what the - - means on the paint code on my 70 W-31.
Does this mean that it was a special order color?
Where might I find the build sheet in this car?
Thanks for the help

Bill Dickinson

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 23:09:14 EDT
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: Charlotte Swap Meet

hay jim...you also had the dates wrong...

it's the 17th-20th ...

do you need an extra parking pass  with admission for 2 adults...
$40 bucks    jeff.....

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 23:14:05 EDT
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: Swap Meet

sept 17-20...do you need a  aprking pass...

i have a parking pass   with unlimited addmission for 2...

$40 bucks..i can sent it too  you


jeff  770  723-9345

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 20:18:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Paging Tom Lentz

- ---Hi all,
       Tom can you contact me direct, or can someone send me his E-mail.
         Thanks,
           John




==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 22:49:58 -0500
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: RE: Paging Tom Lentz

John McJunkin wrote:

	---Hi all,
	       Tom can you contact me direct, or can someone send me his
E-mail.

	Hey John, try tlentz@ior.com

	Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
	Columbus, MS         1987 442
	

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 23:47:20 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: 72 H/O paint questions- Mad H/O owners

Mike Rothe. wrote:
>
> > << Enjoy your Olds to the fullest!  However you like it!
> >
> Mad?  Who, me?  :)  Read above statement.  I agree, as long as it's
> ROCKET POWERED!!!!

I agree to a point...  <G>  There are few H/O's compared to the Stock
Regular run of the mill Cutlass.  So what...  Noone in there right mind
would take a trophy winning Concours class H/0, and make it a Pro-Stock
Dragster....  Would they?

I would be leary to "hop up" something tough to find...  Unless I had
proper motivation...  IE: Motor dying...  <EG>

On the other hand...  Take a regular Cutlass...  And go to town...  heh.

- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 23:57:10 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: Windshields.

Lou Biggs wrote:

> hours prepping it for the new one. Did one heck of a good job. The new
> glass is LOF just like the original, didn't know they were still is
> business.

Yup, LOF is still around..  LOF and PPG are required to be replacement
parts by GM as well...  When our rental cars go back to GM (our lease
being over) they have a strict (read: UGH) set of rules and things that
MUST have been done...  One of which, all glass must be LOF (and one
other is allowed)...

Shoot, the 99 Alero...  LOF Glass.
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 20:57:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Paging Tom Lentz

- ---Doug Newman <newmand@wcbi.com> wrote:

> 	Hey John, try tlentz@ior.com
>
> 	Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
- ---Thanks Doug,I got it saved this time
       John
==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 00:04:01 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Need Book.

Not a service manual...

I was in the bookstore, and saw a bunch of "How-to-Build Chevy Big
Blocks", "How to build 60degree Ford V6s", "How-to-build Toyota 2.2
Motors".......  And got to wondering...

Is there one for "How to big a REAL Motor, Olds 400-455"?

And before anyone gets on my case <G>, I was in the bookstore hounding
them to get me some 87 Cutlass Service Manuals(all G-Bodies), 87 G-Body
Service Manuals, and Chiltons G-Body Repair Book.  Oh, and the girl at
the desk is cute, drives a Honda and has no idea Oldsmobile made motors,
but cute...  "Wow, Oldsmobile makes motors for there own cars?"

heh heh...  Smart reply:

"Yeah, they been doing it before Ford thought about it, and Chevy just
tried to keep up....."
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 00:12:04 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Swap Meet

To all,

        The dates are the 17th through the 20th of September. Charlotte
Motor Speedway is a mile or so right off I-85 before you get to Charlotte
near Welcome, N.C. Hope to see some of you there.

Jim Chermack


At 09:26 PM 8/28/1998 -0400, you wrote:
>What is the date of the fall Charlotte swap meet?
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 00:17:43 EDT
From: MMBJL@aol.com
Subject: 72 BODY POSTS/RIVETS

I asked once, but please any help on what to do with the small posts on the
body for the chrome trim/ door moldings etc.72 cutlass supreme--- HELP
                                     THANKS MARTY
                        ---------------imboud8@aol.com-------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 22:40:50 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: 72 BODY POSTS/RIVETS

> I asked once, but please any help on what to do with the small posts on the
> body for the chrome trim/

Depends on what you're after, I guess.  On my GS, I ground them off, (and down 
a
little) and used a little filler (bondo, etc) to finish it off.  Looks fine, 
but
gotta be prepped correctly  (i.e. clean!)

Other option is to replace the little clips that stick on 'em.  Year One
probably has something for that, as might GM direct, or Napa has some, too.

Good luck!

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 00:54:03 EDT
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: 86 Salon overheating update..........

Got a gauge in it now, its running at around 215 !!!  I know that's to hot.
Put in a new radiator also.  Idiot light barely comes on hot.  What should it
be running at?  Thermostat is a 195 unit.

Bernie   71 350 into 86 Salon

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 01:08:30 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: 86 Salon overheating update..........

215 should be normal.  A 195 thermostat isn't fully open until 222 degrees,
so you're actually running cooler than you could be running.  I plan to put
a high-flow 180 degree t'stat in this spring.  It should certainly be fine
for the remainder of the year, though.

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com <RCKTPWR@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, August 29, 1998 12:55 AM
Subject: 86 Salon overheating update..........


>Got a gauge in it now, its running at around 215 !!!  I know that's to hot.
>Put in a new radiator also.  Idiot light barely comes on hot.  What should
it
>be running at?  Thermostat is a 195 unit.
>
>Bernie   71 350 into 86 Salon

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 01:24:25 EDT
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Charlotte Swap Meet

i will be there, in dads '67 442 convertible.  you guys who will go will
definately know its our car, trust me.  its all saffron yellow.  well, that
is, if we put the top down.  the top is black.
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 01:37:34 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: 86 Salon overheating update..........

In a message dated 98-08-29 01:18:15 EDT, you write:

<< Got a gauge in it now, its running at around 215 !!!  I know that's to hot.
 Put in a new radiator also.  Idiot light barely comes on hot.  What should it
 be running at?  Thermostat is a 195 unit.

 Bernie   71 350 into 86 Salon
  >>

     Bernie..put in the biggest radiator the factory put in the G-bodies, with
my 403, and it runs pretty consistently about 200. I added an aux. trans.
cooler, and that didn't help overall temp that was noticeable. Also removed AC
condensor. Sounds hot to me, but I'm beginning to wonder how accurate the temp
gauges are....I KNOW the voltmeter isn't always right..but sounds like yours
is aftermarket? Many things could come into play here...water pump, debris in
between radiator fins(or AC condensor), bad fan, water in oil, oil in water,
etc, etc, etc.   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 23:54:11 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Paint code

Bill & Beth wrote:

> I am wondering what the - - means on the paint code on my 70 W-31.
> Does this mean that it was a special order color?
> Where might I find the build sheet in this car?
> Thanks for the help
>
> Bill Dickinson

 Bill,
You are correct.  The - - on the trim tags PNT space does indicate a
special order color.  In 1970 the special order colors were (53) Nugget
Gold, (38) Aegean Aqua or (51) Sebring Yellow.  By using paint stripper,
I have found many of these - - tags actually have the color code very
lightly stamped on them (as opposed to the raised numbers/letters on the
rest of the tag).
  As far as the build sheet goes, the most common place I've found the 8
1/2 X 11 full sheet on a 70 is taped on the left door behind the door
panel.  I've found the 8 1/2 X 4 short sheet(s) in every imaginable
place in the interior.  Under the back seat, behind the bucket seat
backs, under the carpet, in the headliner, sail panels, below the
package tray, etc., etc.  In some cars I've found as many as three
sheets, and found none in other original cars.  Keep in mind, there was
no requirement on the assembly line to leave the sheets in the car.
Which is unfortunate when it comes to documenting cars such as your 70
W-31.  If you do find the sheet, this is the best means of documenting
the authenticity of your car.  I suggest putting it in a safe deposit
box!


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 15:30:07 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 72 Gas Cap & antique plates

Well all you can say was that you were sorry and didn't mean to do it. Try
and ask for a warning and be NICE to the officer. Being a jerk FOR SURE
will get you a ticket. I stopped a numnut  who was squealing around a turn
and almost hit a parked car. I really chewed him out, but he was nice and I
let him go on a warning. That's the only time I stopped someone for
squealing....


Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
From: Steven Saraceno <steven@purplemonkey.com>
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
Subject: Re: 72 Gas Cap & antique plates
Date: Friday, August 28, 1998 10:13 AM

Peter Landowski wrote
<You got that right...As a police officer I can attest that to date I have
<never, nor anyone on the department has pulled over someone with Antique

I am glad to hear it from the horses mouth.  Many of my friends who are
cops here in OakPark, Il have said the same thing.  Actually, they also
said if you get pulled over no matter what time of day just say you are
coming from a show if it is late at night or headed to the auto store
during the day.

Speaking of, I had court last week for squealing my tires. Got pulled over
in Westchester, for those in Illinois you know how bad those guys are - I
grew up there.  It pissed me off, the guys I know on their force couldn't
believe it. I was turning right from a complete stop and yes my tires were
squealing but I  was NOT dragging, or endangering anyone.  The judge
laughed, but unfortunately I was caught going 14 mph on an entrance ramp
over a year ago in my "PLEASE PULL ME OVER RED" SHO and when the judge saw
that probation on my record he gave me a $75 probation.

Hey Peter, what do you say to a cop who pulls you over for squealing,  What
a waste of time.  I really get offended when I guy like me who NEVER EVER
drinks and drives has to sit in court for two hours and listen to a bunch
of lying drunks whine about their 2nd or 3rd DUI and the judge lets them
off on probation and promises and then continues to act like us mild
speeders or tire squealers are about to kill someone.

OK done with my soapbox

- ----------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 15:40:52 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: New odometer for 72??

Problem solved. Went to a speedo shop and bought a new odometer for $9.00.
Fits right in and works fine...
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: B. Sanders <blaines@strata3d.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: New odometer for 72??
> Date: Friday, August 28, 1998 5:14 PM
>
>
>
> > I've though of this too, then I realized how long it would take.  The
> > speedo maxes at 120mph, i'd be afraid of running it much faster for
fear
> > of stripping something.  At 120 MPH it would take 416.7 hours to run
the
> > odometer 50,000 miles!  That'd take 17.36 days without a break.
> >
> > Kinda interesting, if you were to speed it up so that it spins 50,000
> > miles in 24 hours, it'd have to run the equivalent of 2083mph...Almost
> > mach 3. :)
>
> ... however, if you were of a fairly crafty nature, I'd wager that you
could
> take the odometer apart and turn it to whatever you want, then put it
back
> together again.  I can't speak for GM's techonology in '72, but I do know
> that it was a simple matter to disassemble my spare odometer from a '64
> Corvair and change it to 00000.0 or whatever else I wanted to.  The only
> problem I had was that the number paint was extremely fragile and flaked
off
> at the lightest touch.  Good thing I wasn't going to re-use it, huh?  I
did,
> however, reassemble it without problems, and it does still work.  My
> philosophy is, "If they can put it together, I can take it apart and put
it
> back together again."
>
> My .02
>
> Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 15:53:06 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Norm Oil Pressure??

What would good oil pressure be for a 455 motor. What's the LOWEST it could
be at idle? What's the LOWEST it could be at 3000plus RPM?

Also when driving on the highway for awhile(15miles) at 2800plus RPM, would
the oil thin out to where the oil pressure could drop 5pounds?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 05:32:18 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: decomputerization

Ray,

the prom in my ecu went bad about 2years ago.I drove around for
about a week without the computer, waiting for new ADS chip to come in.
The car ran, but like sh*t.With a feedback carb and computer controlled
distributor,not having the computer hooked up does noticably effect
the drivability of the car.Performance stank,milage went way down hill.
Think twice about replacing the carb, and the dist. with non-ecu parts.

Kevin White
83 Cutlass Supreme
FE3X clone

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 05:45:48 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: 72 BODY POSTS/RIVETS

Marty,
 If you're not worried about it being modified,break out the Dremel and some
cut-
off wheels.I removed all such trim on my 83 that way.

Kevin White
83 Cutlass Supreme
FE3X clone

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 07:41:17 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Convertible vs. Hardtop Frames:1965

I know this has come up before, more than once.
So I'll post it quick.

A fellow needs to replace the frame on a Dynamic88 convertible (2dr).

Can he use a 2dr hdtp frame instead or is the conv frame reinforced?

Thanks!
K

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 07:47:17 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: will it work?(harmonic balancer)

In a message dated 98-08-28 22:43:53 EDT, you write:

<< Also, what damage, if any would result? I used the 307 balancer on my 403.
The 403 balancer is the same as the high performance 307's, I just found out,
but mine wasn't a High Per. 307.   Dorian >>

Dorian,

If the 307 V.D. is not properly balanced to absorb vibrations from the 403's
internals. This means your engine will probably shake more at particular RPMs
(where contructive interference between the "waves" of vibrations lead to
increased vibrational forces.

In short; you COULD snap your crank if there is a significant difference
between it and the correct one.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 07:50:05 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Found; Cast Crank Pulley ????

Spotted recently in a pile of unrelated stuff.

A cast (not stamped metal) crank pulley.

It had numbers stamped into the back which I did not write down.

Just curious, but what cars had these?

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 08:00:58 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: 2 bbl to 4 bbl Conversions; Whad'ya think?

Peter Berusch wrote:
>
> Karl - I've still got the 2 bbl intake manifold, carb and air cleaner from
> my '71 Cutlass 350.  Any interest?  Peter.

Yeah, also have mine from my 70 S (350). Bet Peter's is in better shape.

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl)
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl)
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl)
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl)
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 09:13:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Fuel Pump/Regulator/Line ?? (fwd)

Having discovered that my Holley mechanical fuel pump (60gph) did not
deliver enough fuel for wide open throttle for the 455 I am in need of
some recommendations

1.  I would like to stay with a mechanical pump. Who makes Mondello;s HP465?
Are there other options to Mondello parts? I need about 100-120 gph pump.
2.  What regulators have a good reputation for efficiency and reliability?
3.  I plan to replace the stock fuel line with 1/2" flex hose.  What sixe
are the fittings at the tank?
4.  Are filters just filters or is there a preferred brand
5.  Does the fuel tank sock really do anything or can it be removed and
not replaced?

Thanks

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 09:26:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Re: Norm Oil Pressure??

On Sat, 29 Aug 1998, Peter Landowski wrote:

> What would good oil pressure be for a 455 motor. What's the LOWEST it could
> be at idle? What's the LOWEST it could be at 3000plus RPM?
>
> Also when driving on the highway for awhile(15miles) at 2800plus RPM, would
> the oil thin out to where the oil pressure could drop 5pounds?
> Pettrix@prodigy.net

Oil pressure is a function of how tight the engine is and what oil pump
you are using.  Idle oil pressure should never drop below 20 assuming a
hot engine.  Pressure at 2800+ should be around 50-60  with a Melling HV
pump.  If you are using a stock pump and do not have this pressure have
your machinist surface grind the gears to equal length and the body so
that the gears extend .008 - .009 out of the body.  The gasket is .010
thick.  Even a new pump from Melling should be checked to assure good
dimensions.  Some come without a gasket therfore adjust dimensions
accordingly.  Shile your at it mightaswell replace the shaft witha crome
molly one.  A Fram HP11 filter will give more presure than an HP2


Al Varhus Columbus,
Ohio http://www.infinet.com/~avar http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 09:31:01 -0400
From: Bill & Beth <dickinson@skow.net>
Subject: Re: Paint code

Thanks for the info greg. Just one more question if I cant find the biuld
sheet how else can I prove that it is authentic?
Buy the way my car is sebring yellow.

Thanks
Bill Dickinson

oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:

> Bill & Beth wrote:
>
> > I am wondering what the - - means on the paint code on my 70 W-31.
> > Does this mean that it was a special order color?
> > Where might I find the build sheet in this car?
> > Thanks for the help
> >
> > Bill Dickinson
>
>  Bill,
> You are correct.  The - - on the trim tags PNT space does indicate a
> special order color.  In 1970 the special order colors were (53) Nugget
> Gold, (38) Aegean Aqua or (51) Sebring Yellow.  By using paint stripper,
> I have found many of these - - tags actually have the color code very
> lightly stamped on them (as opposed to the raised numbers/letters on the
> rest of the tag).
>   As far as the build sheet goes, the most common place I've found the 8
> 1/2 X 11 full sheet on a 70 is taped on the left door behind the door
> panel.  I've found the 8 1/2 X 4 short sheet(s) in every imaginable
> place in the interior.  Under the back seat, behind the bucket seat
> backs, under the carpet, in the headliner, sail panels, below the
> package tray, etc., etc.  In some cars I've found as many as three
> sheets, and found none in other original cars.  Keep in mind, there was
> no requirement on the assembly line to leave the sheets in the car.
> Which is unfortunate when it comes to documenting cars such as your 70
> W-31.  If you do find the sheet, this is the best means of documenting
> the authenticity of your car.  I suggest putting it in a safe deposit
> box!
>
> Greg Rollin
> Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
> http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
> E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 10:10:05 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: classified ads

Pulled from todays Cincinnati Enquirer


Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1987. 4 door, auto, air conditioning, full
power, white, $675/obo. 606-442-9026

Oldsmobile Omega 1981. 2 door, runs great, very reliable, needs minor
work $550. Phone:513-331-8327

Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1979. 2 door, V8, auto, new trans, runs
great. $650. 513-939-1755.

Oldsmobile Delta 88 1976. 4 door, run good, good trans, body rough.
$600/best offer, Phone:513-371-4467

Oldsmobile Cutlass S 1969. excellent original condition, runs great,
looks great, $4000. D513-261-2341, E Phone: 513-635-9629

I have no further knowledge of these machines

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 09:26:40 -0500
From: "grubis" <grubis@ro.com>
Subject: Re: 72 BODY POSTS/RIVETS

If you are removing the moulding permanently just grind off the studs and
use body filler to smooth out.  I would be interested in purchasing the
moulding if this is what you are doing.  The passenger side moulding of my
72 convertable is missing.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 10:36:15 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Speedo head

Here's a question I know someone on the list can resolve.  I have a '66 big
car (98) equipped with cruise control.  I bought a parts car just to have
around "in case".  The parts car came with a speed minder speedo.  Are these
two mutually exclusive?  Is there any reason I could or should not move the
speed minder into my "good" car?  If memory serves, Olds wouldn't sell a car
with both options.  Why not?  TIA.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 10:56:34 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Paint code

Bill - I have found build sheets on top of the gas tank, under the rear
seat, stuffed in the upright of the rear seat, and, most recently, in the
heater plenum box.  Happy hunting.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bill & Beth <dickinson@skow.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, August 28, 1998 11:07 PM
Subject: Paint code


>I am wondering what the - - means on the paint code on my 70 W-31.
>Does this mean that it was a special order color?
>Where might I find the build sheet in this car?
>Thanks for the help
>
>Bill Dickinson
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 11:03:52 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Service Manual for '84 Cutlass

>Members,
>
>Does anyone know where I can purchase a GM Service Manual for a 1984
>Cutlass Supreme

I got mine from Helm Publications (they did the factory manuals).
The web site for Helm is: www.helminc.com/

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 11:03:20 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Norm Oil Pressure??

Mine runs about 70 pounds at a cold cruise, about 25 - 30 pounds at a cold
idle.  About 50 pounds at a hot cruise, about 20 pounds at a hot idle.
Peter
- -----Original Message-----
From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, August 29, 1998 4:56 AM
Subject: Norm Oil Pressure??


>What would good oil pressure be for a 455 motor. What's the LOWEST it could
>be at idle? What's the LOWEST it could be at 3000plus RPM?
>
>Also when driving on the highway for awhile(15miles) at 2800plus RPM, would
>the oil thin out to where the oil pressure could drop 5pounds?
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 11:05:59 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Convertible vs. Hardtop Frames:1965

- -----Original Message-----
From: KarlAune@aol.com <KarlAune@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, August 29, 1998 7:42 AMThe convertible frame is reinforced
to compensate for the loss of rigidity when the steel top goes by-by.  Peter
Subject: Convertible vs. Hardtop Frames:1965


>
>I know this has come up before, more than once.
>So I'll post it quick.
>
>A fellow needs to replace the frame on a Dynamic88 convertible (2dr).
>
>Can he use a 2dr hdtp frame instead or is the conv frame reinforced?
>
>Thanks!
>K

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 11:33:27 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Decomputerization?

>John Pajak Wrote:
>> If you remove the computer you really need a regular
>>non-electronic carb and a precomputer HEI distributor.


Correct. The main metering jets in computerized carbs are controlled by a
solenoid that cycles between rich (solenoid off) and lean (solenoid on).
Without the computer, the carb runs full rich. These are the primary jets
mind you, and are more than just a "tweak" for emissions.

>OK, the carb I understand, but why the different HEI.  The only thing it
had
>was the hot lead and tach.  The extra wire out the back side of the base
has
>been disconnected for a long time.  It was the only one with a "computer
>connection".


The computerized HEI distributor has no vacuum or centrifugal advance at
all. All advance is controlled by the computer. With the computer disabled
you run at base timing. That will be a compromise between cold start (which
wants no advance) and performance.

That big connector is the one that goes to the ECM. The ECM gets it's rpm
data from the ignition module, and uses another wire in the same connector
to control advance.

BTW you can't have one without the other. The ECM needs throttle position
data to set timing, and it gets that info from a sensor in the carb.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 08:37:08 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: decomputerization

Okay, I've been following this thread for a while now, but I need
to ask a couple of questions here...

> As far as I know, removing a computer will not affect the carb
> to the point of non-driveability.

True, in the sense that the engine will probably still run. But
you're doing yourself and your engine no favors if you're actually
taking the computer off a computer-controlled carb.

> All the computer does is force the metering rods to move slightly
> to adjust for emissions.

I don't think that's strictly accurate... how do you plan to
operate the Mixture Control solenoid? EGR solenoid? Vacuum advance
cutout? MAP/BAP sensor calculations? Keep-Alive Memory storage?
Timing?

> I don't think the difference would even be noticeable when
> driving...

Sure it is... backfiring on acceleration is one possibility that
comes to mind. What I'd suggest here is maybe just _unplugging_
the ECM rather than ripping it out -- all those wires going into
it are there for a reason -- and see if performance suffers much.

Putting it another way: What problems are you looking to correct
by removing the computer?

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 12:17:07 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: UPDATE aluminum heads!

Ben I am leaving for Gainesville now, the showdown on the heads has now 
arrived,
will let you know tomorrow morning.  Butch  68  442  post

Ben wrote:

> I also spent about 5-600 not extra, but after the cost of the heads. You MUST
have > new length and diameter push rods, and the only working rockers are 7/16
stud > 3/8"rod, 1.6 ratin FULL ROLLER ROCKERS! But I als got some of the best
parts out > there. IF I had milled my head to a smaller CC then I'd be well 
over
600 bucks. > But to me it's well worth the money. HOWEVER, if you want a long
wait you best > order now cause they will be a long time coming if Edelbrock
doesn't change their > policy about OUR heads. Good Luck and let us know if you
need more help or info. I > learned the hard way and butch got the info from
me... But I really had to dig to > find out how to put this new contraption
together... > > Ben > > B. Vosburgh wrote: > > > Sam , I have about 600 extra 
in
mine, and it would have been more if I had not > > had Ben do it befor me.
Butch 68 442 post > > > > Johnson, Sam wrote: > > > > > Ben > > > > > > How 
much
more did you have to spend when you got the aluminum heads?  I > > > wanted to
get them for next year and wanted know what extras would I need.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 12:19:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: Decomputerization?

> The computerized HEI distributor has no vacuum or centrifugal advance at
> all. All advance is controlled by the computer. With the computer disabled

This is about 99% correct.  The 7-pin module does have a limited amount
of built-in advance, a sort of "limp home" mode in the event of an ECM
related failure.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 12:20:51 EDT
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: 86 Salon overheating update..........2

In a message dated 8/29/98 1:48:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
DYeager535@AOL.com writes:

<< cooler, and that didn't help overall temp that was noticeable. Also removed
AC
 condensor. Sounds hot to me, but I'm beginning to wonder how accurate the
temp
 gauges are....I KNOW the voltmeter isn't always right..but sounds like yours
 is aftermarket? Many things could come into play here...water pump, debris in
 between radiator fins(or AC condensor), bad fan, water in oil, oil in water,
 etc, etc, etc.   Dorian
  >>
gauge is aftermarket..my fact gauge has no power to it !! /other gauges work
fine. Waterpump flows OK. Will back blow the a/c condenser today. Block could
have debris in it, dont know how long it sat before i bought it. Have a
6-blade flex fan on it now also. Thanks for the tips, will keep ya advised.
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 12:21:59 EDT
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: 86 Salon overheating update..........

In a message dated 8/29/98 2:44:04 AM Eastern Daylight Time, rocketolds@vt.edu
writes:

<< 215 should be normal.  A 195 thermostat isn't fully open until 222 degrees,
 so you're actually running cooler than you could be running.  I plan to put
 a high-flow 180 degree t'stat in this spring.  It should certainly be fine
 for the remainder of the year, though.
  >>
I was thinking about trying a 180 unit actually. Thanks,
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 12:11:38 -0500
From: Dan Williams <442much@plutonium.net>
Subject: Re: Mondello meet

I think I am the only one from the list who went to the Mondello Meet.
Overall it was pretty good, but I'm sure there were more cars at Norwalk.
There were a lot of cars running High 10s all day.  I think the best time that
I saw Joe get was 10.56.  I only saw one car break under 10 at 9.75.  There
were some pretty cool cars there, such as on Olds powered studabaker and a 72
(I think it was 72) cutlass set up like a police car.  When the police car
ran, they used the flashing lights on top.  That was cool, not to mention they
beat Mondello in the process.  Believe it or not Joe was very accessible and
was very nice.

- --
Dan Williams                            442Much@plutonium.net
Marion, IA                                     68 442 Convertible



RPTW32@aol.com wrote:

> Hey anyone attend the Mondello meet a couple of weeks ago ?  Haven't seen
> anything posted from anyone on that one. How was the track and what kind of
> times were the guys turning.
>
> Rgds,
> Rob Thomas
> 69 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 10:52:41 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: 70 W-31 authenticity

> Thanks for the info greg. Just one more question if I cant find the biuld
> sheet how else can I prove that it is authentic?
> Buy the way my car is sebring yellow.

The only W-car that can be definitively identified without supporting
paperwork happens to be the 72 W-30, which has an "X" engine code in the
VIN.

For the 70 W-31, unfortunately, without the paperwork, it's hard to
"prove" it's authentic.  However, there are some things that make up a
W-31 package that can't be found on non-W31s.

One of the ways that you can help 'identify' a 70 W-30/31 is that they
used a lot less sound deadening material to save some weight.  Close the
trunk lid.  If it sounds nice and solid and tight, that isn't a good
sign.  But it MAY have been replaced, so this is not a guarantee.  If it
sounds hollow, like you're clanging an empty steel trash can, then this
will signify a W-trunk lid.  Also, the firewall pad, if it is original,
is very thin compared to non-Ws.  All W cars were made in Lansing,
therefore the body plate will show "LAN" on it.  Also, if it is an
automatic, a "JO" coded TH350 tranny was used.  The 3.42 or 3.91 was the
only rear gears from the factory regardless of trans choice.  You also
have "6" heads, aluminum intake, special carb, and a harmonic balancer
that resembles a steel version of a "F-60 x 15" tire.  In other words,
that sucker is HUGE!  Very thick.  Along with sport mirrors, ram air,
badges/striping, front and rear sway bars, dual exhaust and manual front
discs/rear drum brakes, plus G70x14s.

Of course, if someone wanted to spend a truckload of money, all of these
things can be found and installed.  That would be hard to do.  However,
if EVERYTHING is on this car, then it's more than likely genuine.
Unfortunately, like Mr. Rollin said, the build sheet or an original
window sticker/factory paperwork is the BEST way to document it's
originality.

Now, I'm remembering one W-31 I saw a long time ago, and if I'm not
mistaken, did the W-31s also have woodgrain lower dash inserts with the
chrome edging around the top of the dash pad as well, ala 442?  Not sure
about this one.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 11:10:38 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: FS 1986 442

Talked to a guy last night in CA.  Has several Oldsmobiles, but he
mentioned he was going to sell his 86 442.  Teal blue/silver, original
equipped, power everything but no t-tops/moon roof.  No rust.  Didn't
get a ton of info from him, because for one, I'm in FL, so it's too far,
and two, I just got another 442.  So, if anyone is interested, you can
call him at his business (pizza place) and ask for Jay.  He owns the
place and said that he is usually there ALL the time.

1-714-832-7270

One interesting note, during our discussion, was that he was friends
with a guy who's dad was a VP in Oldsmobile for years.  He got the very
last 88 Cutlass Supreme Classic RWD off the line.  Supposedly it had
carryover 442 stuff in it from 87, notably a 120 mph speedometer.  And
the friend's dad also said that 1985 was SUPPOSED to be the last year
for the RWD Cutlass, which was going to be replaced by the Cutlass
Calais FWD introduced in 85,  but because of strong 84 and 85 sales of
all the G bodies, plus their popularity, they carried them over for a
few more years.

Another point to note as well, the VP mentioned there are supposedly 50
or so mid-80s Aero-coupe Cutlass cars running around in the U.S.
somewhere.  Oldsmobile tested the feasability of it along the same time
the Monte's and Grand Prix's were doing it.  However, as we all know,
the Cutlass Aero-coupe never went to production.

How much of all this is true, I cannot verify, but it IS interesting
fodder.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 14:11:59 EDT
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Mission Fast Street Impossible CAM-AM

Well here you go folks, Oldsmobile already developed a twin turbo 455 Olds
engine.  If you find the book called "Oldsmobile the Performance Years" It
shows the Oldsmobile twin-turbo alloy can-am engine. Its specs were as
following:
displacement 455
horsepower    659 hp @ 6250 rpm
torque            554 ft. lbs @ 6250rpm
block             alloy, four bolt mains
compression   8:5 to 1
tuborchargers   Dual TRW-375-E-10
boost              Wastegate 10 1/2 psi
fuel injection       Lucas
intake              Olds, alloy

just a thought
W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
1972 442 W-30 Race Rocket
12.14@110 mph in the quarter and drove it 130 miles to Norwalk

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 14:19:29 EDT
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: header for '70 442 (455/auto)

In a message dated 98-08-27 16:46:08 EDT, you write:

<< I have the engine in my 442 out, so I figure it's a good time to put
 headers in.  I have a '70 -- 455, auto, ps/pb, a/c.  What headers will fit
 best?  I called up PAW, and they said thier economy headers would fit
 best.  Anyone have experience putting headers into a similar car?

 Thanks, >>
Ed the only header you want to fit good with no effort is the Hooker Super
comp headers with the 1 7/ 8 primary tubes.  These are for Automatic cars
68-72.  For manual trans cars use the 1 3 / 4 primary tube headers to clear
the Z-bar.  With these headers there are no jacking up the engine or such.
Just remover starter and oil filter housing and put them on.  Also the Dip
stick tube needs to be removed.
later
W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30 Race Rocket
visit my web pages at
http://members.aol.com/wmachines

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 14:30:53 EDT
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70 W-31 authenticity / m.rothe

In a message dated 98-08-29 13:20:19 EDT, you write:

>Now, I'm remembering one W-31 I saw a long time ago, and if I'm not
>mistaken, did the W-31s also have woodgrain lower dash inserts with the
>chrome edging around the top of the dash pad as well, ala 442?  Not sure
>about this one.
>
>Mike Rothe
>
>
mike, cant speak for everyone but my 70 w-31 has no woodgrain inserts or the
chrome edging around the dash, but then mine didnt come with much options.
its a 4spd.,  39;1  anti-spin, manuel streering,  but i did get a build sheet
with it!  lucky for me!                     FWIW.        steven,
w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 14:46:14 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: will it work?(harmonic balancer)

In a message dated 98-08-29 07:48:41 EDT, you write:

<< This means your engine will probably shake more at particular RPMs
 (where contructive interference between the "waves" of vibrations lead to
 increased vibrational forces.

 In short; you COULD snap your crank if there is a significant difference
 between it and the correct one.
  >>

     Well, that didn't happen, but would that cause more wear on the main
bearings? I was told it wouldn't but one of mine started making noise ( I
think) Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 15:18:30 EDT
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70 W-31 authenticity / m.rothe

In a message dated 8/29/98 1:32:45 PM EST, W30442CS@aol.com writes:

<< mike, cant speak for everyone but my 70 w-31 has no woodgrain inserts or
the
 chrome edging around the dash, but then mine didnt come with much options. >>

If memory serves me correctly, an F85-based W31 did not come with the
woodgrain on the dash, but a Cutlass-based W31 did.

Jon

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 16:33:58 EDT
From: Stakin@aol.com
Subject: Re: Paint code

Try  looking under the back seat     Remove it and look between the material
and the springs    Ive also found them  on the top of the gas tank between the
mat and the tank   and also found one under the passangers seat.

Joe Stackman

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 16:47:24 EDT
From: Stakin@aol.com
Subject: Re: Norm Oil Pressure??

<< What would good oil pressure be for a 455 motor. What's the LOWEST it could
 be at idle? What's the LOWEST it could be at 3000plus RPM?

 Also when driving on the highway for awhile(15miles) at 2800plus RPM, would
 the oil thin out to where the oil pressure could drop 5pounds?
 Pettrix@prodigy.net >>

The LOWEST the oil pressure can be is 10# per 1000 rpm and still do its job.
It should be higher than that but it will work that low.   Good oil pressure
would be in the 40# range at idle and 60# at cruise speed.
As far as dropping 5# while cruising at 2800rpm plus woud be normal .

Joe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 16:51:53 EDT
From: W31Sleeper@aol.com
Subject: Re: Norm Oil Pressure??

what would make the pressure drop that low??????

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 16:53:49 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Norm Oil Pressure??

In a message dated 98-08-29 16:50:35 EDT, you write:

<< The LOWEST the oil pressure can be is 10# per 1000 rpm and still do its
job.
 It should be higher than that but it will work that low.   Good oil pressure
 would be in the 40# range at idle and 60# at cruise speed.
 As far as dropping 5# while cruising at 2800rpm plus woud be normal .
  >>

      So did Olds use high pressure or high volume pumps in their high
performance motors, or just standard, and what PSI did they run?  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 15:28:23 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Windshields.

Thanks Jerry,
Did not know that, was very happy with the work performed. Good to see some
folks still do good work.
Lou B.


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 15:31:29 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Paint code

Bill, Pull the rear seat, a lot of times there is one left under it. Found
one on the 75.
Lou Biggs

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 16:05:39 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Norm Oil Pressure??

Non Olds,
Use to run Hemi's. Milodon dry sump units and pump. Oil pressure would be
about 25 to 30 pounds at idle, 1900 RPM's. This was with, close to .003 rod
bearing clearance, and .0025 mains. It would carry around 70 pounds at 8
grand, after that it was much too exciting to watch the gauge. One time I
tried to idle it down and it showed 8 lbs at 800 RPM's. Low enough to make
the idiot light red, had I had one. I know oil pressure varies a great
deal, depending on your internal clearances, rods, mains, and especially
cam bearings no matter what you have pumping it. Sometimes loss inside the
engine cannot keep up even with high volume pumps.
Lou Biggs

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 16:21:38 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Norm Oil Pressure??

 You do not need high pressure, you need volume,
Lou Biggs

You wrote:
- ----------
> From: DYeager535@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Norm Oil Pressure??
> Date: Saturday, August 29, 1998 3:53 PM
>
> In a message dated 98-08-29 16:50:35 EDT, you write:
>
> << The LOWEST the oil pressure can be is 10# per 1000 rpm and still do
its
> job.
>  It should be higher than that but it will work that low.   Good oil
pressure
>  would be in the 40# range at idle and 60# at cruise speed.
>  As far as dropping 5# while cruising at 2800rpm plus woud be normal .

>   >>
>
>       So did Olds use high pressure or high volume pumps in their high
> performance motors, or just standard, and what PSI did they run?  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 18:10:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: What colors for '68 headlight buckets??

Going to give a try with repainting mine...

I assume flat black for black areas.  What shade of silver/gray? What is the
closest to this in the run of the mill spray paints at the hardware store?

Thanks again in advance,

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 05:54:18 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Norm Oil Pressure??

I like to change my oil every 1000 miles. I believe oil thins out and
looses viscosity after awhile. You may notice this with a new oil change as
the oil pressure will be higher for a longer period of time.

It was just that yesterday while driving home on the highway for about
15plus miles at 2800-3000RPM (55-65MPH). I noticed that my gauge was a tad
berlow the 50 mark where it usually always is. I would say it was about
45pounds. Just got a little paranoid.

I've got a 7quart pan with a Mondello high-volume high-pressure pump. I
also run 20W-50 in it. I used to run Pennzoil I am whitching to Castrol. I
heard Pennzoil is a very waxy oil. Also Castrol is much CLEARER than
Pennzoil is.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Stakin@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Norm Oil Pressure??
> Date: Saturday, August 29, 1998 3:47 PM
>
>
>
> << What would good oil pressure be for a 455 motor. What's the LOWEST it
could
>  be at idle? What's the LOWEST it could be at 3000plus RPM?
>
>  Also when driving on the highway for awhile(15miles) at 2800plus RPM,
would
>  the oil thin out to where the oil pressure could drop 5pounds?
>  Pettrix@prodigy.net >>
>
> The LOWEST the oil pressure can be is 10# per 1000 rpm and still do its
job.
> It should be higher than that but it will work that low.   Good oil
pressure
> would be in the 40# range at idle and 60# at cruise speed.
> As far as dropping 5# while cruising at 2800rpm plus woud be normal .
>
> Joe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 19:08:22 EDT
From: GChris1511@aol.com
Subject: Re: will it work?

the harmonic balancer on an engine is specific to that engine.  not just that
series engine.  changing the harmonic balancer from one engine to another may
be possible and might "work" but an engineer like myself would like to
diagnose the balance charactics of the engine and then look at the balance
profile with the installed balance weight

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 17:06:12 -0700
From: "Tim Wurtz" <tropical@micron.net>
Subject: 403 Pilot Shaft Bearing

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Does anyone know where i can get a pilot shaft bearing for the 403 =
motor. Also does anyone know of any companies that sell a flywheel for =
this motor. I am wanting to put a standard transmission behind this =
motor for circle track racing. I need a bell housing for this thing too =
if anybody has one. Thanks Tim Wurtz
tropical@micron.net=20

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Does anyone know where i can get a =
pilot shaft=20
bearing for the 403 motor. Also does anyone know of any companies that =
sell a=20
flywheel for this motor. I am wanting to put a standard transmission =
behind this=20
motor for circle track racing. I need a bell housing for this thing too =
if=20
anybody has one. Thanks Tim Wurtz</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:tropical@micron.net">tropical@micron.net</A>=20
</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 19:12:18 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Norm Oil Pressure??

In a message dated 98-08-29 17:26:32 EDT, you write:

<< You do not need high pressure, you need volume,
 Lou Biggs
  >>
 Thanks for the coment Lou, do you have an explanation? In the FAQ it says
that high volume will tend to send oil into the bypass...wouldn't shimming the
spring in the pump (pressure spring)  cause the pump to bypass at higher PSI,
thereby allowing you to ACTUALLY use the higher volume pump? And how, if at
all, would a high volume or high pressure pump hurt the motor? I know Pontiac
in their SD455 used high pressure EXCLUSIVELY. I can't think of, or at least
know of, any GM products (V8) that used high volume stock. Can anyone add
anything to this?  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 19:15:02 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Norm Oil Pressure??

In a message dated 98-08-29 18:58:22 EDT, you write:

<< It was just that yesterday while driving home on the highway for about
 15plus miles at 2800-3000RPM (55-65MPH). I noticed that my gauge was a tad
 berlow the 50 mark where it usually always is. I would say it was about
 45pounds. Just got a little paranoid.
  >>

   heh heh..before I quit driving the 403, oil pressure at idle was 5psi..for
2 years. Odd thing was, 307 before it did the same thing. Changed gauges about
4 times, and replaced the sending unit. At driving RPM's (anything above idle)
it was at least 15, never higher than 30, with 20-50W oil. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 19:16:04 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: will it work?

In a message dated 98-08-29 19:10:17 EDT, you write:

<< the harmonic balancer on an engine is specific to that engine.  not just
that
 series engine.  changing the harmonic balancer from one engine to another may
 be possible and might "work" but an engineer like myself would like to
 diagnose the balance charactics of the engine and then look at the balance
 profile with the installed balance weight
  >>

     Did they do that at the factory? I mean install them and check the
overall balance, or however they could check it? Just curious, Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 19:25:05 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Mondello meet

I couldn't get it together to go this year but my wife and I are already
planning for next year.

- -----Original Message-----

>
>I think I am the only one from the list who went to the Mondello Meet.
>Overall it was pretty good, but I'm sure there were more cars at Norwalk.
>There were a lot of cars running High 10s all day.  I think the best time
that
>I saw Joe get was 10.56.  I only saw one car break under 10 at 9.75.  There
>were some pretty cool cars there, such as on Olds powered studabaker and a
72
>(I think it was 72) cutlass set up like a police car.  When the police car
>ran, they used the flashing lights on top.  That was cool, not to mention
they
>beat Mondello in the process.  Believe it or not Joe was very accessible
and
>was very nice.
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 19:58:47 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Conv. Top Bow??

I don't know if anyone else has responded, and if someone else did sorry i
never seen.
I have the front bow.  Call me a t 905-357-4454 and i will discuss it with
you
Price will be $75 ok

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)


- ----------
> From: olds@interconti.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Conv. Top Bow??
> Date: Thursday, August 27, 1998 2:24 PM
>
>
>          Hello all -
>
>          I am looking for a Top Bow for a 1970 cutlass Supreme.
>          I think that is what it is called, it's the very front
>          section of the convertible top frame that rests on the
>          windshield.
>
>          Anyone have any ideas where to get one?
>
>          thanks,
>          SB

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Aug 1998 20:06:53 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Water Pump

Water pump on the 307 is making some really funky noises. The factory manual
shows replacing it as pretty much straight forward. Anyone know of hidden
"gotcha's" that I should watch out for?

tnx

drc

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1455
*********************************
