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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1427


oldsmobile-digest       Friday, August 14 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1427



Re: Ball Joint
Re: UNBOUNCE: Need '68 350 Carb #7028250
Re: Trans fluid leak
off list till 8/24
Re: Magnum Rockers
RE: Magnum Rockers
Re: Magnum Rockers
Re: 403 olds flywheel and clutch
Re: Your flamed!
Re: Camshaft's
Get More Flames Now! was: Unflamed, apparently. was Flames
Re: paint code Q
RE: Magnum Rockers
Non-Auto W-cars
how to test a starter...
Re: paint code Q
Re: 403 olds flywheel and clutch
Re: Non-Auto W-cars
Re: Non-Auto W-cars
Re: Non-Auto W-cars
Re: Non-Auto W-cars
List Index
Re: Non-Auto W-cars
Re: Non-Auto W-cars
Re: Non-Auto W-cars
Re: Non-Auto W-cars
Re: Non-Auto W-cars
Re: Non-Auto W-cars
RE: Aluminum Heads!
Re: Non-Auto W-cars
RE: Resonators?
RE: Christian Fair's Exhaust
Karl Surplus' product & skill limit
Re: Camshaft's
RE: Non-Auto W-cars
RE: Non-Auto W-cars
RE: Non-Auto W-cars
RE: Christian Fair's Exhaust
RE: Non-Auto W-cars
RE: Non-Auto W-cars
Ebay - 1965 Radio Manual
Re: how to test a starter...
Re: 403 olds flywheel and clutch
Friday Olds Cartoon
leaving for a bit
Re: Resonators?
Windshield
Holly Pro Jection
Cutlass For Trade/Sale
The Rocket V8 shall rise again!!!
Beware of Bumper Boyz
RE: The Rocket V8 shall rise again!!!
W-31 tranny rebuild update
Re: Windshield
Re: The Rocket V8 shall rise again!!!
Re: Beware of Bumper Boyz
Clock Wiring - Please H*lp
Emblems from Hell
Re: Clock Wiring - Please H*lp

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 08:52:49 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Ball Joint

In a message dated 98-08-13 20:58:33 EDT, you write:

<< This isn't absolute, but to test ball joints, jack the car up, push on the
top
 of the tire, and pull on the bottom of the tire, and if the wheel moves more
 than just a little bit, you should have them checked. >>

Joe,
 FWIW, I saw excessive wear on the outer walls on my tires. Thought it was
ball joints, used your method, turned out to be I needed a new center link.
Had it replaced, solved the problem.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 08:53:25 EDT
From: <MrExMt@aol.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Need '68 350 Carb #7028250

Thanks Greg,
I've called him before with no luck & he took a long time to return my phone
calls.
The search goes on.
Leigh

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 09:05:35 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Trans fluid leak

To Dorian,Dave, KK etc
Thanks for your valuable info. Going to try and  locate the trouble using your
suggestions. However being only a tinkerer ( a man's got to know his
limitations CE.)
if it turns out to be a 300lb. gorilla, I'll call in the lion tamers.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 09:08:40 -0400
From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: off list till 8/24

Off the list for a week, see ya on the 24th

       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
          Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 W30 stick ~ Red (of course)

                              <mailto:drdecal442@aol.com>
                              <mailto:mcornea@ford.com>

            Visit <http://members.aol.com/drdecal442/mcr.html>


            OCA# 4903
       	    OPC# 14
       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 10:03:52 EDT
From: <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Magnum Rockers

In a message dated 98-08-14 09:02:12 EDT, you write:

<< I got the Magnum Rocker kit from summit last April and put them on my 455
 and I am very satisfied with them also.  They told me the same thing about
 the Edelbrock Performer too. I got from Joe for $280 bucks, if summit had
 them in stock I would have paid $199 bucks. I was pretty mad a Joe for this
 and said that I would not buy anything else from him until he gets his high
 price @## together. >>
I also have this kit with no problems. Whats the deal w/ the performer there
not made anymore??

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 09:33:06 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: Magnum Rockers

Summit racing should have them in stock now.  I think Joe wanted to corner
the market and raise the price to make a bigger profit off us Oldsmobile
guys.
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
14 Wins 11 Losses
======================


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	AGUY4RUMLI@AOL.COM [SMTP:AGUY4RUMLI@AOL.COM]
	Sent:	Friday, August 14, 1998 9:04 AM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	Re: Magnum Rockers

	In a message dated 98-08-14 09:02:12 EDT, you write:

	<< I got the Magnum Rocker kit from summit last April and put them
on my 455
	 and I am very satisfied with them also.  They told me the same
thing about
	 the Edelbrock Performer too. I got from Joe for $280 bucks, if
summit had
	 them in stock I would have paid $199 bucks. I was pretty mad a Joe
for this
	 and said that I would not buy anything else from him until he gets
his high
	 price @## together. >>
	I also have this kit with no problems. Whats the deal w/ the
performer there
	not made anymore??

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 10:43:09 -0400
From: Joseph Gambaccini <jgambaccini@ci.richmond.va.us>
Subject: Re: Magnum Rockers

man, you guys are rough!!! (but, right on the money, too)


Johnson, Sam wrote:
>
> Summit racing should have them in stock now.  I think Joe wanted to corner
> the market and raise the price to make a bigger profit off us Oldsmobile
> guys.
> ======================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 10:34:33 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 403 olds flywheel and clutch

>>No 403's were made to mate to a standard transmission?
>
>Wrong.  And if I were to venture an educated guess, due to the broad-lined
>popularity of the 403, I'd say they ~all~ had a pilot hole drilled.  Mine
did.
>It was out of a Trans Am, though.  I've heard that most do.  I'd still
like to
>find flywheel info, though...  I'll be needing one, someday...

Though they were *made* to mate to a manual transmission, none ever were.
The 400/4spd in the later 'birds was in fact that: the Pontiac 400 with the
manual transmission. The 403 only came mated to the TH350 in those cars,
and the TH400 in the C-bodies. I don't even know if you could have gotten
the 403 with the 3spd manual trans in the '77 Cutlass (one possible place
it would have been mated to a manual), though I know the 5spd trans in that
car was limited to the V-6 and 260 V-8.

But in the B, C and F bodies, the 403 was auto only.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	              MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 10:29:58 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Your flamed!

>A question. My '72 Cutlass Supreme has a 350/350 setup, but we blew away a
>Porche! OK, may be the guy did not know how to drive, but Im still very
>proud of Junior. ;) We have also blown away Mustang GTs etc.

A particularly strong Supreme you have there, it sounds like!

>Are the blocks for years through '72/73 different than later blocks? Or is
>it just because Im not used to a 455 yet? ;) Hehehe!

OK, what is it, a 350 or 455? Either way, there will be no functional
difference between the '72/'73 blocks and later blocks; they might differ
slightly in nickel content, but either will be more than strong enough for
any street use just below the insane level.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	              MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 10:27:20 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Camshaft's

>On Fri, 14 Aug 1998 DYeager535@AOL.COM wrote:
>> Hi everyone, more questions as usual : ) Has ANYONE out there put a
.474+ lift
>> cam in a small block Olds that wasn't originally a .474+ lift without
changing
>> the valve springs or pushrods?

Well, I put a .448"/.474" cam in my 403, which originally came with a
.400"/.400" cam, and I came nowhere near binding the springs or hitting the
retainers against the guides. I did have to go with longer pushrods, as the
cam was ground on a -.100" base circle (to make up that difference I only
needed +.050" pushrods, but to be able to tune in the proper preload I
ordered +.100" pushrods, and used a combination of .020" and .030" shims to
get .035"-.040" preload, and also to compensate for the heads being cut
.010" and the valves seats being ground). BTW, the valvetrain geometry
isn't screwed up by this; there is no abnormal wear on the valvestem or
rockers at all (which I've found when I've had them apart for the annual
head-gasket change, a 403 ritual you may soon come to enjoy...)

But I'm using factory replacement valvesprings, which are fine for the
daily driving and occasional full-throttle this car sees (with 2.41 rear
gears, it is tough to get the revs too high on the street, apart from
kickdown shifts at 70mph and the like). If you are going to be revving the
snot out of it, you may want to go with heavier springs anyway, even if
your geometry is fine.6
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	              MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 10:54:23 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Get More Flames Now! was: Unflamed, apparently. was Flames

I am very sorry to be propagating flames on the list, but this is very
interesting to me.

Regarding L. Biggs' 1975 Rock Supreme 2dr;

<< [I] Used to race ............... I built my own engines, this one should be
right on but it is a pooch. If you do not open secondaries it is like dragging
a board. Do not have a tach but upshift speeds are not that high( in MPH) so I
doubt the ratio is that high. What was offered on the car, would you know?
......
For ref. ign total is 44 degrees, jetting is stock, Vacuum advance OK!, Put in
dual exhausts(glass packs), no vacuum leaks, cyn. leak down test about 8%,
some holes a bit better,  engine runs smooth as silk, hard to figure??
 Thanks, Lou  >>

Ah, dual exhaust. I was gonna ask. No prob there.
Mayhaps intake runners are narrow.
I have an intake from a 1976 Delta 88 445, but of course, manifold bigger, so
not a basis for runner comparisons.

<<<< ' 75's had REALLY lean jetted Q-jets. Not just Olds but all GM.
' 75 was the year Rochester  changed everything and then later worked out some
bugs in the design.
Bob....>>>>

Aha!

Was this the introduction of the idle-air bypass in Rochester Q-Jets, or was
it some other nonsense?

So, Lou?
Looks like you need a better year of Q-Jet.

Rejetting the 17065XXX carb may not be sufficient to clear this prob.

Dunno how many emmissions control/computer control (freak!) systems were
hooked to the carb in 1975, so I could not begin to suggest what year carb
would be better.
If no conflicts or lack of support for 1975 systems, a 1974 (17064XXX  ?)
could be the way to go.

And while I am proposing projects for your car.....

Ah, Nevermind.

Why should I make suggestions for your projects when I cannot get going on my
own?
Need 2 rims/tires, dual exhaust, fuel line, bodywork, remove & cleanup &
replace & reseal the big glass......

<sigh>

But I hope this helps!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 98 10:57 EDT
From: turley@symplex.com (Mike Turley)
Subject: Re: paint code Q

> paint code on my 67 convertible is d-2........what is the name of the 
color???
> i know its some kinda blue. Thanks
>
> Brent

Brent,

My '66 has paint code D and it's called "Lucerne Mist" for 1966.
It's a light silvery blue metallic color.

Your "2" is the convert. top color, black I think.

Mike Turley

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 10:00:25 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: Magnum Rockers

Rough and Ready
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
14 Wins 11 Losses
======================


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Joseph Gambaccini [SMTP:jgambaccini@ci.richmond.va.us]
	Sent:	Friday, August 14, 1998 9:43 AM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	Re: Magnum Rockers

	man, you guys are rough!!! (but, right on the money, too)


	Johnson, Sam wrote:
	>
	> Summit racing should have them in stock now.  I think Joe wanted
to corner
	> the market and raise the price to make a bigger profit off us
Oldsmobile
	> guys.
	> ======================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 10:43:31 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Non-Auto W-cars

I think I may have stumbled onto the source of confusion over manual
trans-only W-cars.  While I think it has been pretty well documented that
the W-30s were available with the TH400 starting in 1967, the _W-31_ was
only available with a manual trans until 1970.  The 68-69  W-31s could only
be ordered with the base 3 spd or the close or wide ratio 4 spd.  Starting
in 1970, a special TH350 (yes, TH350) was offered behind the W-31.  Now
that I think about it, I recall that many years ago there was a member of
the SoCal Chapter of OCA who owned an AT W-31 and continually lamented the
fact that the original owner had replaced this unique and extremely rare
TH350 with a TH400.   :-(

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 10:06:51 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: how to test a starter...

Hi Guys,

Today I will pull my motor. Wish me luck (first engine I will build, but
the FAQ off the list are always with me...)
I bought the 68 Cutlass as a started project from the former owner. He
told me that the starter is shot.
But:
There was one starter in the trunk. Yesterday, prepairing for pulling the
engine I found a second starter one on there!
I think one of the two starters may still be good. How can I test them
without putting them on?
Or would you suggest to go ahead and spend the $ 30 for a rebuilt one
without even trying out which one is good? (or would you buy a new one?)

Regards,

George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 10:15:00 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: paint code Q

> paint code on my 67 convertible is d-2........what is the
> name of the color???
> i know its some kinda blue. Thanks

To add some to the confusion:

On my '68 Cutlass D stands for saphire blue (light blue).

To end this confusing thing you could just call year one at 1800-year-one
and ask the tech guys, they will look it up for you.

(The Year One guys got the 1 in D-1 wrong though when I called them. They
said it was black top which is not correct according to all the guys on
the list. I am still pretending I need a black one, I hate those sissy-white
tops and I had a new black one in a box coming with the car anyway.) No
bashing from white top and "all matching" fanatics please. ;-)

Regards,

George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 11:17:01 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 403 olds flywheel and clutch

Though they were *made* to mate to a manual transmission, none ever were.
_____________

I just wanted to add a little to Bob's post.  What we're all talking about
here is that apparently (and unlike those of most Olds motors), _all_ 403
cranks were drilled for the pilot bearing, despite only being mated to an
AT.  To put a 4 spd behind a 403, you'll still need the pilot bearing and
an MT flywheel with a late (68-up) crank flange pattern.  I assume (not
being a 403 expert) that the 403 doesn't have some oddball external balance
requirement and that the block _is_ drilled and tapped for the clutch
linkage pivot ball.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 08:19:50 -0700
From: "John Young" <realtorjohn@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Non-Auto W-cars

Joe,
As I am continually astonished at the amount of great info on this list, I
ran out and bought the HP Books guide to GM MUscle Cars as a reference.
According to it the 69 W-31 did come with "Turbo Hydra-Matic Column-Mounted
Automatic (Console-Mounted available. Shall we start the W series auto
contraversy anew? Thanks for the previous info on the W-32/W-30.
realtorjohn@sprynet.com
69 W-32 (or so I was originally told, it is an OAI/auto!!)

- ----------
> From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Non-Auto W-cars
> Date: Friday, August 14, 1998 7:43 AM
>
> I think I may have stumbled onto the source of confusion over manual
> trans-only W-cars.  While I think it has been pretty well documented that
> the W-30s were available with the TH400 starting in 1967, the _W-31_ was
> only available with a manual trans until 1970.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 08:24:07 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Non-Auto W-cars

Joe,

The w-31 could be order with a TH350 in '69

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)

 The 68-69  W-31s could only
>be ordered with the base 3 spd or the close or wide ratio 4 spd.
Starting
>in 1970, a special TH350 (yes, TH350) was offered behind the W-31.  >
>Joe Padavano


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 11:29:23 -0400
From: Joseph Gambaccini <jgambaccini@ci.richmond.va.us>
Subject: Re: Non-Auto W-cars

would the cam in the '69 w-31 w/ t-350 have been a little milder than
the 308/.474 stickshift version???


Brent Pinkstaff wrote:
>
> Joe,
>
> The w-31 could be order with a TH350 in '69
>
> Brent Pinkstaff
> '70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)
>
>  The 68-69  W-31s could only
> >be ordered with the base 3 spd or the close or wide ratio 4 spd.
> Starting
> >in 1970, a special TH350 (yes, TH350) was offered behind the W-31.  >
> >Joe Padavano
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 11:36:56 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Non-Auto W-cars

Joe,
As I am continually astonished at the amount of great info on this list, I
ran out and bought the HP Books guide to GM MUscle Cars as a reference.
According to it the 69 W-31 did come with "Turbo Hydra-Matic Column-Mounted
Automatic (Console-Mounted available. Shall we start the W series auto
contraversy anew? Thanks for the previous info on the W-32/W-30.
realtorjohn@sprynet.com
69 W-32 (or so I was originally told, it is an OAI/auto!!)
________________

John,

I can't say that I'm 100% certain about the 69 W-31.  The Sullivan book
reproduces an Olds press release describing the 1968 W-31/RamRod 350 cars
as only being available with the MT.  Similarly, I have the 1970 442 and
W-machine dealer brochure which describes the TH350 as being available in
the W-31, in addition to having first hand knowledge of one car.  I'll need
to double check on the 69s.

I'm interested in your W-32.  Does it have black fenderwells with cutouts
for the O.A.I.?  C heads with a G-block 400?  OW TH400?  How about the rear
- - 3.91 posi?  Power disc brakes?  No A/C?  Wide hood stripes?  I've been
trying to find out more about these cars, and from what I can gather, this
is how they were equipped.  (Though I don't claim to be a W-32 expert by
any stretch).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 11:49:08 EDT
From: <JCRASH7@aol.com>
Subject: List Index

Listmembers,
I am going to make a page that lists all of the listmembers' websites.  If you
are reading this and have a website, please email me the url.

Joe

BTW-  I forget who posted it, but I'm glad my method for testing ball joints
worked for you.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 08:50:21 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Non-Auto W-cars

Nope. Same cam '68-'70 w-31 all.

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)



>would the cam in the '69 w-31 w/ t-350 have been a little milder than
>the 308/.474 stickshift version???




______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 09:07:26 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Non-Auto W-cars

Isn't Smetana's '69 w-31 an auto car? That's the one he's having trans
problems with.

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)




>I can't say that I'm 100% certain about the 69 W-31.  The Sullivan book
>reproduces an Olds press release describing the 1968 W-31/RamRod 350
cars
>as only being available with the MT.  Similarly, I have the 1970 442
and
>W-machine dealer brochure which describes the TH350 as being available
in
>the W-31, in addition to having first hand knowledge of one car.  I'll
need
>to double check on the 69s.

>Joe Padavano




______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 09:10:05 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Non-Auto W-cars

Isn't Smetana's '69 w-31 an auto car? That's the one he's having trans
problems with.

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)




>I can't say that I'm 100% certain about the 69 W-31.  The Sullivan book
>reproduces an Olds press release describing the 1968 W-31/RamRod 350
cars
>as only being available with the MT.  Similarly, I have the 1970 442
and
>W-machine dealer brochure which describes the TH350 as being available
in
>the W-31, in addition to having first hand knowledge of one car.  I'll
need
>to double check on the 69s.

>Joe Padavano




______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 12:09:45 -0400
From: Joseph Gambaccini <jgambaccini@ci.richmond.va.us>
Subject: Re: Non-Auto W-cars

wow!  but, how come some of the w-30's with automatics came with lower
duration cams - 328 degrees too high maybe???


Brent Pinkstaff wrote:
>
> Nope. Same cam '68-'70 w-31 all.
>
> Brent Pinkstaff
> '70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)
>
> >would the cam in the '69 w-31 w/ t-350 have been a little milder than
> >the 308/.474 stickshift version???
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 12:11:19 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Non-Auto W-cars

Isn't Smetana's '69 w-31 an auto car? That's the one he's having trans
problems with.

Brent Pinkstaff
__________________

Uh, good point....

But wait, that's a 350, right?  So it has less than 400 cu in, right?
Well, there's the problem!  How can I be expected to know about these
"little motor" cars?   ;-)

Joe (tongue firmly in cheek) Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 12:14:06 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Non-Auto W-cars

wow!  but, how come some of the w-30's with automatics came with lower
duration cams - 328 degrees too high maybe???
_________________

Exactly.  That cam wouldn't pull enough vacuum to run power brakes or the
A/C (both of which were only available with the TH400).  Not sure if W-31s
(AT or MT) were ever offered with power brakes or A/C.

Joe Padavavno
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 11:26:12 -0500
From: Chad Schwartz <ChadS@pcsco.com>
Subject: RE: Aluminum Heads!

>400 w/ a 268 street/strip cam, headers,
>aluminum heads running at least 12.5:1, performer intake and 750
>Edelbrock Q-jet. My desktop dyno says over 400 hp and over 500 ft/lb...

>Pretty good for street with close to 18+ mpg highway.

Just curious about what gas do you plan on using with 12.5:1 compression on
the street?  I don't think even premium would be up for the job.

Chad Schwartz
chads@pcsco.com <mailto:chads@pcsco.com>
mIRC: ROCKN6
Denison, IA
'87 GN  T-Tops (TE-44, 40lb Inj, Modified Stock IC, ATR Cam, JC Chip,
			 ATR 2 ½" SS Exhaust, TH 3" DP, 3" Test Pipe, ATR
Ram Air)
'79 H/O T-Tops (400 HP/430 TQ ZZ4 350 H.O. Chevy, TH350, 3.73 Posi)

"Poverty Is Owning A Race Car"  "Happiness Is A Low E.T."

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 09:25:53 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Non-Auto W-cars

I'm not sure if the 328 duration was too long for an auto, but I know (I
helped part one) that in '70, they made auto/AC w-30 cars with 3.23
rears. I don't think you would want to run that much duration with that
little rear.

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)

>wow!  but, how come some of the w-30's with automatics came with lower
>duration cams - 328 degrees too high maybe???




______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 09:29:03 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Resonators?

Jeg's has 'em and they go behind he mufflers on
big cars on either side of the gas tank. I'm guessing
their purpose is sound control or quality, but don't know,
just want to be reasonably true to factory standards.

I think Jeg's has them in both 2.25 and 2.5" sizes.

I'm not sure if these were originally fitted on the A-bodies or not.

hope this helps,
cf

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris & Robin Miller [mailto:cya442@mindspring.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 1998 9:14 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Resonators?
>
(snip)

> Where can I purchase these resonators and where do they go?
>
> --
> Chris Miller
> '68 442
> Tustin, CA
> mailto:cya442@mindspring.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 09:29:02 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Christian Fair's Exhaust

Karl,
No strain on the intrusion. It seems flowmasters come in
1,2, & 3 chamber varieties. The more chambers, the less
sound, it seems. Can anyone confirm this?

If you have other brandname solutions for a low restriction
quiet set mufflers for a factory style solution, I'm all eyes.

thanks

cf

> -----Original Message-----
> From: KarlAune@aol.com [mailto:KarlAune@aol.com]
(snip)
> I am NOT flaming the Flowmaster disciples!
> (Irritating Disciples in this locale could result in
> immediate termination!)
> HAH!
>
> Sorry to intrude, Chris, just wanted to ensure that a mistake
> is not made!
>
> As always, please send all flames to: KarlAunan@aol.com
>
> Thanks!
>
> SOM
> &KA
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 09:29:03 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: Karl Surplus' product & skill limit

Mark or others,
I think I've heard good things about his work.

D'ya think he might be able to reproduce the clear
plastic shifter panel in the Starfire console? Mine's not
so hot, so I think I must go repro route.

Suggestions?
cf


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Cornea (R) [mailto:mcornea@ford.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 13, 1998 8:08 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Parts and info needed for 70 W-30

> 	Joe,
> 		Karl Sarpolis is the person that is reproducing
> these, his phone
> number is: (708)614-4906. Have one on my '70, the mounting
> tabs are much
> stronger then the original. He is out of Illinois. Great guy.
>
>
>        ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
>           Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 W30 stick ~ Red (of course)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 11:41:57 -0500
From: Chad Schwartz <ChadS@pcsco.com>
Subject: Re: Camshaft's

> Hi everyone, more questions as usual : ) Has ANYONE out there put a .474+
lift
> cam in a small block Olds that wasn't originally a .474+ lift without
changing
> the valve springs or pushrods?

You will probably run into problems without changing the valve springs to
ones that can handle the lift.  I also recommend converting to adjustable
roller rocker arms.  I battled with trying to adjust with shims and problems
with the rockers being loose or valves hanging open.   The adjustable ones
make it a snap to adjust plus add some horsepower gaining friction
reduction.  I think you can order the rockers from Jeg's.  I paid the too
high of price and got mine from Mondello.

Chad Schwartz
chads@pcsco.com <mailto:chads@pcsco.com>
mIRC: ROCKN6
Denison, IA
'87 GN  T-Tops (TE-44, 40lb Inj, Modified Stock IC, ATR Cam, JC Chip,
			 ATR 2 ½" SS Exhaust, TH 3" DP, 3" Test Pipe, ATR
Ram Air)
'79 H/O T-Tops (400 HP/430 TQ ZZ4 350 H.O. Chevy, TH350, 3.73 Posi)

"Poverty Is Owning A Race Car"  "Happiness Is A Low E.T."


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 11:41:13 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: Non-Auto W-cars

Had a meeting so I missed all the fun.  :)   I hate it when work gets in
the way of my auto's.

My 69 W-31 is an auto.  I have been researching the available of an auto
in the 69 W-31 and been looking at pretty much the same documentation
Joe P has.  Some sources say it isn't available, some say it is.  But
from what I can tell it ~definitely~ was available in 69.  The code on
my tranny is JO and it has a 69 build date, don't recall it off hand.  A
couple places I checked on for this tranny code don't list JO in 69, but
in 70 it is the correct code for an auto W-31.  The only thing I haven't
verified is if the numbers match the vin.  On a related note, a long
while back I posted the question to the list about the JO code T350 in
my W-31 and I don't remember the response.

From what I have found, 68 W-31 are all manual, 69 and 70 W-31 are
either auto or manual.

So unless someone is playing around with me, I have the original tranny.

Update on the tranny rebuild, they have it out of the car and tearing it
apart.  I will call and see what the status is.  I was told on mon by
the shop owner the high gear clutch pack is toasted.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31 auto JO code,  currently under the knife for tranny repairs
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

>----------
>From: 	Brent Pinkstaff[SMTP:fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com]
>Sent: 	Friday, August 14, 1998 11:07 AM
>To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: 	Re: Non-Auto W-cars
>
>Isn't Smetana's '69 w-31 an auto car? That's the one he's having trans
>problems with.
>
>Brent Pinkstaff
>'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)
>
>
>
>
>>I can't say that I'm 100% certain about the 69 W-31.  The Sullivan book
>>reproduces an Olds press release describing the 1968 W-31/RamRod 350
>cars
>>as only being available with the MT.  Similarly, I have the 1970 442
>and
>>W-machine dealer brochure which describes the TH350 as being available
>in
>>the W-31, in addition to having first hand knowledge of one car.  I'll
>need
>>to double check on the 69s.
>
>>Joe Padavano
>
>
>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 11:43:37 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: Non-Auto W-cars

>
>Isn't Smetana's '69 w-31 an auto car? That's the one he's having trans
>problems with.
>
>Brent Pinkstaff
>__________________
>
>Uh, good point....
>
>But wait, that's a 350, right?  So it has less than 400 cu in, right?
>Well, there's the problem!  How can I be expected to know about these
>"little motor" cars?   ;-)
>
>Joe (tongue firmly in cheek) Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com

All right Joe that's enough  :-)

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31 auto JO code, currently under the knife for tranny work
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 11:46:41 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: Non-Auto W-cars

>wow!  but, how come some of the w-30's with automatics came with lower
>duration cams - 328 degrees too high maybe???
>_________________
>
>Exactly.  That cam wouldn't pull enough vacuum to run power brakes or the
>A/C (both of which were only available with the TH400).  Not sure if W-31s
>(AT or MT) were ever offered with power brakes or A/C.

As far as I know, the W-31 was ~not~ available with power brakes.  In
70, I think the W-31 could be had with a/c.  I think Jim McKeague's 70
W-31 has a/c, but his is a 4sp if I recall correctly.  Jim, are you
there?

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31 auto JO code, currently under the knife for tranny repairs
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 11:51:56 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: Christian Fair's Exhaust

>No strain on the intrusion. It seems flowmasters come in
>1,2, & 3 chamber varieties. The more chambers, the less
>sound, it seems. Can anyone confirm this?

From my understanding with the flowmasters offered on 87-93 Mustangs,
the 2 chamber is louder than the 3 chamber, but the 3 chamber produces
more horsepower than the 2 chamber.  I have the 3 chamber flowmaster cat
back exhaust system on my 89 5.0 LX and I like it very much.  So much in
fact, I'm strongly considering flowmasters for the W-31 whenever it
needs exhaust, which will be shortly.  But the mufflers currently on the
car sound GREAT, just don't know what they are.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31 currently under the knife for tranny repairs
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 12:52:02 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: RE: Non-Auto W-cars

I have been researching the available of an auto
in the 69 W-31 and been looking at pretty much the same documentation
Joe P has.  Some sources say it isn't available, some say it is.
_______________

One of the things I've found is that while many of these "research" books
will reproduce period factory documentation, midyear or special offerings
are sometimes not included.  It's entirely possible, for example, that the
68 W-31s were originally offered only with MT, and a later midyear change
brought in the TH350.  Ordering sheets might not have been updated, or the
reference book cited may have reproduced an early-year copy of the sheet.
And, of course, factory one-offs and custom jobs from that time period have
been proven to exist.

Ultimately, an authentic build sheet is probably the only way to "prove"
the factory configuration of a particular car.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 12:12:17 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: Non-Auto W-cars

>
>One of the things I've found is that while many of these "research" books
>will reproduce period factory documentation, midyear or special offerings
>are sometimes not included.  It's entirely possible, for example, that the
>68 W-31s were originally offered only with MT, and a later midyear change
>brought in the TH350.  Ordering sheets might not have been updated, or the
Anything is possibly.

>reference book cited may have reproduced an early-year copy of the sheet.
BINGO!  I have the 69 version of what the Sullivan book has for 68 about
the W-31 (If my memory serves me correctly as I don't have my book with
me).  It is as far as I can tell an original and it was an after model
year had started release, don't recall the date of the letter (Oct?).
This states the available of the auto for 69, along with a bunch of
other great info.

>And, of course, factory one-offs and custom jobs from that time period have
>been proven to exist.
Hmm, should we bring up the 70 Rallye 350 W-31s that are reported to
possibly exist.  Roughly a dozen right?
>
>Ultimately, an authentic build sheet is probably the only way to "prove"
>the factory configuration of a particular car.
Yep, which I also have for my car.  Just don't ask to see it as it's
illegible :-(   The only reason I found it was when the car was sitting
on my Dad's patio for approx 4 months, I would go home for a weekend and
work on it.  One weekend I went home and noticed a puddle of water on
the passenger front footwell :-0  So I removed the seats and then the
carpet and low and behold the build sheet.  But it was all wet and I can
really only make out a couple codes.  I finally put that carpeting back
in 2 years later, just never really got around to it, and I put the car
in storage then my garage, so I didn't have to worry about the
environments.
While in Springfield at the Nats, I was looking at Jim McKeague's 70
W-31 and his display of information.  He had a copy of his build sheet
out and I noticed the W-31 was in box #3.  So I went back to the hotel
room to dig out my build sheet to see if I could make out a W-31 in box
#3, but no dice, as it doesn't look like it was there.

Joe, if you are interested, I can send you a copy of that letter along
with some other things I have.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31 currently under the knife for tranny repairs
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others


>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 13:13:23 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Ebay - 1965 Radio Manual

Well, normally I do not post trivial things.

(Would that there was a bulletin board!)

((((Karl suddenly wonders if he could host one?))))

At any rate.

Karl-monster has bid on item #24798795.

A 1965 AC Delco radio manual (multi-car make).

Karl would advise others to not challenge as he wants it.

The only other non-Soylent activity, on which I spent as much money as I have
on Ebay, is my need for beer.

Karl would prefer not to have posted this.........but fairness in all......

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 13:35:44 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: how to test a starter...

In a message dated 98-08-14 11:16:42 EDT, you write:

<< Or would you suggest to go ahead and spend the $ 30 for a rebuilt one
 without even trying out which one is good? (or would you buy a new one?)

 Regards,

 George >>


     George, if you do buy a new one, make sure you keep the "nose cone" off
of the starter bolted to the block, if it was not eating the
flexplate/flywheel teeth. I've seen rebuilt starters that had to have metal
ground OFF the cone to make the starter engage correctly. I *think* to test a
starter you ground the case of it(?) and jumper between the top post and the
right post("S") on the solenoid. I may be wrong about where/how to ground, but
I *think* that is correct.   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 13:37:21 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 403 olds flywheel and clutch

In a message dated 98-08-14 11:23:21 EDT, you write:

<< I just wanted to add a little to Bob's post.  What we're all talking about
 here is that apparently (and unlike those of most Olds motors), _all_ 403
 cranks were drilled for the pilot bearing, despite only being mated to an
 AT.  To put a 4 spd behind a 403, you'll still need the pilot bearing and
 an MT flywheel with a late (68-up) crank flange pattern.  I assume (not
 being a 403 expert) that the 403 doesn't have some oddball external balance
 requirement and that the block _is_ drilled and tapped for the clutch
 linkage pivot ball.

 Joe Padavano >>

     Now that is odd! Why would they even think of doing this? Sounds like a
good reason to keep the 403 around! : )   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 19:23:46 -0500
From: Brad Nicholson <brad442@erols.com>
Subject: Friday Olds Cartoon

I redid my index page and added a little something I believe the list
will enjoy at the bottom. It is a "Mother Goose & Grimm" cartoon from
1988. YES it IS Oldsmobile related!
Just thank me for not sending it to the list as it is 47k in size :-)
(You're welcome Greg)
Just me trying out my new scanner so starting Sept look for a MUCH
improved Olds Club of America Web Site at http://www.oldsclub.org

Brad Nicholson (OCA's WebGuy)
brad442@erols.com
webguy@oldsclub.org

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 14:18:08 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: leaving for a bit

Off on vacation the next week. Please continue the good work of the list.
Can't wait to read the digest form. If you need to get a hold of me, e-mail
me directly. Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 14:19:08 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Resonators?

My friend Christian Fair wrote:

<<  Jeg's has 'em and they go behind he mufflers on big cars on either side of
the gas tank. I'm guessing their purpose is sound control or quality, but
don't know,
 just want to be reasonably true to factory standards.  >>

Odd. From High School's motor shop I remember a diagram (which I can prolly
dig up!) of resonators coming before mufflers in an exhaust system......

Ah well, "proof in the pudding"....
Karl will stat search soon.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 11:27:10 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Windshield

Our Vista Cruiser's windshield recently lost the contest of rock vs
glass.  So this weekend I'll be replacing it (the windshield that is).
Potential problem:  the only  Vista Cruiser windshield we've got around
here is from a 70-72.  The wagon is a 69.  The Olds parts books as well
as Hollanders show these to be different.  I suspect the only difference
is the fact that the 70-72's have the imbedded antenna.  Whereas the
68-69's antennas are fender mounted.  As close as I can measure, it
appears it will fit.  Anybody interchanged these before?

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 11:44:29 PDT
From: "flynt myrick" <f_myrick@hotmail.com>
Subject: Holly Pro Jection

List members,
 Have any of you ever tried the Holly Pro-Jection fuel injection system
on an Oldsmobile engine?  If so, what are the results?

Flynt Myrick
f_myrick@hotmail.com
http://www.hotmail.com


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 14:47:10 -0500
From: IMCEAEX-_O=MCCO_OU=MORGAN_CN=RECIPIENTS_CN=M947AIM@morganco.com
Subject: Cutlass For Trade/Sale

Well, I just bit the bullet and bought a new car.
No, its not an Olds. I was replused by how
bland our Division has made the styling of the
new Cutlass. The Aurora, well, its just gorgeous,
plain and simple, but I need my arms and legs
in order to drive! Anyway, one of the reasons,
I bought a new car, was to start a restoration on
my 72 Cutlass Supreme. Then I had a thought.
I decided to post an ad today on Bryceman's
442.com looking for possible trades. I figured that
the Cutlass is really not needy of a restoration
just yet and if I'm going to put forth the effort, maybe
I can find a 68-72 442 for trade, up or down. Anyway,
I just posted my ad, so it wont be there right away,
but if interested, most of the details are listed. Of
course, I'd be happy to entertain questions. However,
please to patient, my e-mail software can be temper-
mental. Feel free to call M-F 8-4 EST.

Jeff Cote
cotej@morganco.com
(508) 849-6468 (work)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 14:18:36 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu>
Subject: The Rocket V8 shall rise again!!!

Dunno if anyone else has found this out.  Today was the first i've heard
of it and I haven't seen it on the list yet.  Thought you'd all like to
know:

Made a call to Mondello today to look into a conversion kit for a
diesel.  Ended up finding out that he will soon begin selling *new* big
block engines.  All Oldsmobile, and all aluminum!!

All together now:  YES!!!

I asked him what the price was on 'em, he said around 5 grand.  Out of
my range but I don't think it's too bad for a new aluminum big-block.
Didn't ask what that included, I'd assume it's just the block.  All in
all a good start, I'm just happy to see more rocket V8s being produced.

*sigh* ....Maybe when I get a job and pay off the student loans....Heh,
by that time I'll be able to get one used with a couple of hundred
thousand miles on it.  :)

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 15:17:23 EDT
From: <DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com>
Subject: Beware of Bumper Boyz

I will try to keep this as short as possible,, i am a member of The Oldsmobile
Club of America,, Hurst/Olds Club of America,, and the board of director for
Oldsmobile Cutlass Coupes 73-77.....Owning 3 Hurst/Olds and also a 1957
Chevy,,
I decided to replace all the bumpers and hood chrome on my 57 this summer,, i
have seen The Bumper Boyz at car shows and it had seemed an easy way to go,,,
simply bring my cores to a car show and exchange them. I called them in early
April and was informed that I could do it one of two ways,,, 1st take a chance
that no one would buy my order before I arrived or put 25% down and guarantee
the 11 parts I needed would be at the Bloomington car show on May 16th,, I
opted to put the 25% down. Arriving at the car show and after carrying the 11
core pieces, I was informed,, " sorry partner,, I don't have it"  BUT leave
your cores here,, all your pieces were done,, just didn't make it on the truck
and they would ship them Monday,, free shipping,, I would have all new chrome
Friday the 22nd of May,, one week later.
      After not receiving the chrome I called Tuesday the 26th,, and was
informed they would be shipped that Friday the 29th. On Friday, June 5th,,
still no bumpers and I called only to be informed they would call me back
Monday, June 8th.... Still no call.. I called back June 10th , Carlos said
they would be shipped on the 11th... Bumpers arrived on June 16th,, one piece
was chipped and the back bumper was the wrong one. On the 18th of June I asked
if the exchange pieces could be shipped 3 day delivery so I could have them on
Monday, the 1st day of my vacation,,, Bob said yes and assured me they were on
the way,, Ofcourse the bumpers did not arrive until Wednesday,, I was told ,,
it was a paperwork error. On Saturday the 27th the chrome started to peal off
part of the rear bumper. Called the 29th ,, was told new one was on the way...
Called back on the 7th of June,, "" sorry paperwork"" its on the way. Now the
hood bar was starting to bubble,, I called and informed them I would meet them
at a car show in Elkhorn Wis and exchange it there. After receiving the new
rear piece I was called by The Bumper Boys and told to bring the pealing rear
piece to the Elkorn car show when I exchange the hood bar.. I arrived at
Elkorn to give them the rear piece and exchange the hood bar, only to hear the
same words again,,"" Sorry partner"" we don't have one,,, i received my money
for the hood bar back after causing a scene and 2 weeks later am still waiting
my core to be returned in the mail,,,
again i am sorry to take up so much space,,, i just want to warn fellow car
lovers, that The Bumper Boyz did not treat me in a manner i feel i should have
been,,
I should mention that they did send me a check for $50,, after i had a fit
that they charged me $250 to guarantee delivery in May,,, what would of
happened if i had not of shown up at the car show???? Think they would have
refunded my $250 deposit??
Thankyou for your time... Jeffrey Fieldsend

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 14:17:39 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: The Rocket V8 shall rise again!!!

>
>Made a call to Mondello today to look into a conversion kit for a
>diesel.  Ended up finding out that he will soon begin selling *new* big
>block engines.  All Oldsmobile, and all aluminum!!

While in Springfield for Nats, there was a tech seminar in which he
passed out a little flyer about the E'brock heads and this motor.  He
mentioned all the items/work/etc with both and I think he said the only
non stock Olds item/accessory that wouldn't work on the motor is the
water pump, which he conveniently sells.
The motors price is out of my range too, besides I've got enough to do
with the cars I currently have, let alone build a 500+ci aluminum stump
puller thats keeps blowing up trannies because they can't handle the
output of the beast  :)

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31 currently under the knife for tranny work
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 14:40:20 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: W-31 tranny rebuild update

Well, I just got the news about the transmission.

I have one hard part damaged with the forward drum, Rich (transmission
shop owner) has a bunch laying around so I'll get one of those.

Other than that the clutches are burnt and the tranny mount is bad.

Not bad at all, or at least not as bad as it could possibly be (maybe
Olds/Dr. Watson did build them right from the factory)

So, tranny rebuild, clutches, labor, drum, new converter and mount comes
to a grand total of $718.23!!!  About $200 more than I was
hoping/expecting, oh well.

So then I asked him a few questions and he believes I still have the
original torque converter and rebuilding it won't affect the price, so
I'm going that route.  Rich also believes the stall speed is probably
1800rpm.  I also asked about upgrading some other things and he
suggested the hardened roller sprag, so add $58 for that.  I also asked
if he would recommend a shift kit and he said definitely and he only
does the Trans-Go.  He uses the kit w/ the manual valve body but if I
don't want that it can be excluded from the install, so add $125 for
that.  I asked about aux tranny coolers and he asked what size radiator
I have.  Told him original 4-core and he said not to worry about
coolers.  Sooooooo, I think I'm gonna hold off on the shift kit until
the spring, but upgrade to the hardened roller sprag.  Now I just need
to come up with the money.  I'm gonna call Rich this afternoon and give
him the final decision as I needed to talk with the wife and make sure
there wasn't any questions about rebuild/upgrades I still have.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31 currently under the knife for tranny repairs
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 15:46:16 -0400
From: Kyle Roe <karoe@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: Windshield

Just finished doing this with my Cruiser.  The answer is:   ANY  GM
Intermediate   4-door  or wagon. They come with and without the antenna
(obviously).  New ones run about  $200 installed, used ones around  $50 , glass
only.

To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
cc:
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca @ D03AU056 @ IBMLMS01
Date: 08/14/98 02:35:31 PM EDT
Subject: Windshield

Our Vista Cruiser's windshield recently lost the contest of rock vs
glass.  So this weekend I'll be replacing it (the windshield that is).
Potential problem:  the only  Vista Cruiser windshield we've got around
here is from a 70-72.  The wagon is a 69.  The Olds parts books as well
as Hollanders show these to be different.  I suspect the only difference
is the fact that the 70-72's have the imbedded antenna.  Whereas the
68-69's antennas are fender mounted.  As close as I can measure, it
appears it will fit.  Anybody interchanged these before?

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 13:00:58 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: The Rocket V8 shall rise again!!!

Greg Pruett wrote:

> Made a call to Mondello today to look into a conversion kit for a
> diesel.  Ended up finding out that he will soon begin selling *new* big
> block engines.  All Oldsmobile, and all aluminum!!
>
> All together now:  YES!!!
>
> I asked him what the price was on 'em, he said around 5 grand.  Out of

Yow!  $5,000 for an engine.  I'd have to be rich to afford that.

> all a good start, I'm just happy to see more rocket V8s being produced.

Did he have any specs?

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 17:11:53 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Beware of Bumper Boyz

Jeff, I can sympathize. My story is more one of stupidity than anything.
Here goes:

When I bought the Cutlass the first thing I knew I had to do was replace
the rear bumper. It was shot, parts had been bondoed to fill rust and
painted black. It might have been replatable but I had my doubts, the
shop would have to do a lot of work. So I got myself a Hemmings and went
looking. I made several calls to different people over the course of a
week and found nothing. Finally, I decided I had to do something so I
called Bumper Boyz in L.A. and they had them in stock, so I ordered one.

It actually came in a reasonable time, but the plating quality was very
poor. Same problem as you, little bits peeling here and there, while in
other places the copper showed thru. Quality control was obviously
lacking. But what could I do, 3000 miles away? What made it worse was that
the week after I ordered it I got a call back from a fellow who had an NOS
one for about half of what I ended up paying. And now I've got a cutout
core sitting in the garage waiting to be replated, which is what I could
have had in the first place if I had a clue back then. ;-)

I would not do business with them myself ever again.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 14:25:34 -0600
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: Clock Wiring - Please H*lp

I have a couple of questions about factory clocks:

1) My car didn't come with a clock, and there's no wiring there for one.
Apparently there's two wires that hook to it:  a grey one that works the
lights, and an orange one that's constant power to run the clock.  Correct?
Well, where's the wiring for it?  Is it supposed to be there, or is it a
separate harness that plugs into the main harness?

2) Is there a way to clean up the clock mechanism and make it work better?
My clock looks pretty clean, but I just want to know if there's anything I
can do to it to make it work better.  I remember something about "fogging"
with WD-40, but I don't remember if that's for clocks or tachs.

3) I can splice into the harness for the wires I need, but I'd rather do it
the right way.  So if there's a separate group of wires for the clock, and
someone has one they don't want or need, I'd be glad to take it off their
hands ;)

Thanks,
Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 17:21:09 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Emblems from Hell

I just spent 5 hours in the garage replacing one fender script. The
problem: the fender bottoms on my car had been repaired a few years ago,
and though the inner flange that the fender bottom mounts to was OK, I
discovered that (according to the service manual) the 2 bottom bolts
attach to clip nuts that are supposed to be on the flange. Mine were lost
or rotted apparently, so the body shop used regular nuts. How they got
them on is still a bit of a mystery.

I had to detach the fender bottom to do the script replacement but to do
that I had to be able to get a wrench on those nuts, which meant that the
inner fender had to be unbolted to let it move, which also meant the
battery and tray had to come out. After doing that I was barely able to
get a wrench on the nut and got the bolts out. As far as I can tell I
didn't draw blood which is a miracle considering the close quarters I was
in. Changing the emblem took all of 5 minutes. Then reassembly, same
problem only worse, but I finally got the nut started and everything's
back together 5 hours after I started. I think I'll go to the parts store
and get a few clip nuts before I do the other side.

Doncha just *love* this hobby sometimes? ;-)

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 15:40:33 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Clock Wiring - Please H*lp

B. Sanders wrote:
>
> I have a couple of questions about factory clocks:

What car is the clock going in?  Gotta know that.

> 2) Is there a way to clean up the clock mechanism and make it work better?
> My clock looks pretty clean, but I just want to know if there's anything I
> can do to it to make it work better.  I remember something about "fogging"
> with WD-40, but I don't remember if that's for clocks or tachs.


The fogging with WD-40 trick is for clocks.  Go to the FAQ for more
information.  You can lik to it from www.442.com

Of course that if for the older, self-winding mechanical clocks.  If you
have a newer clock you better check to see that it isn't quartz or
something like that.  Probably not such a good idea if it's not
mechanical.

Good luck.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1427
*********************************
