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cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1460


oldsmobile-digest     Tuesday, September 1 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1460



Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1458
new member
Halogen bulbs
Re: Hard Into Reverse - Why?
69 Cutlass headliner questions
Re: Halogen bulbs
Re: More Olds on tv......
Dualjet
driveshaft yoke/tranny ?
Re: TH-400 with overdrive?
Re: 69 cutlass for sale-follow up
Re: 1985 Oldsmobile 442 (msd)
Re: fan clutch working? Also: "40 Below"
Re: Hard Into Reverse - Why?
northern lights ( dash plaque)
Re: Halogen bulbs
Paging Eric Aksomitis
Re: TH-400 with overdrive?
Oldsmobile part needed
can i remove the pcv valve?
Re: Hood Springs
Re: can i remove the pcv valve?
Quadrajet Linkage
Re: can i remove the pcv valve?
Re: driveshaft yoke/tranny ?
Re: new member
Re: Halogen bulbs
Re: Halogen bulbs
UNBOUNCE: ISO Rack & Pinion
'69 CUTLASS CONV. (fwd)
Re: Hard Into Reverse - Why?
Re: Hard Into Reverse - Why?
Re: Parts 4 Sale
RE: DON'T SPEED
exhausted
Re: Red vs. Blue hi-beam indicator
Re: More Olds on tv......
Parking light lenses
Re: Halogen bulbs
Re: Red vs. Blue hi-beam indicator
'87 442 - Low reading on voltmeter guage?
Carter AFB
Grandfather to Bravada
Re: driveshaft yoke/tranny ?
internet provider, non-Olds
Re: Parts 4 Sale answered
Re: Carter AFB
Re: '87 442 - Low reading on voltmeter guage?
RE: internet provider, non-Olds
RE: '87 442 - Low reading on voltmeter guage?
RE: internet provider, non-Olds

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 20:50:44 -0400
From: Dan Jones <dclover@epix.net>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1458

My '70 Cutlass, made on Dec 08, 1969 if I read the build sheet
correctly, has a red Hi-beam indicator.
Just my $0.02 to the confusion.

Dan J.





Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 00:21:01 EDT
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Red vs. Blue hi-beam indicator

The color of the high-beam indicator is regulated by Federal law. At one
time
it was red, but then the law mandated that it be blue. I want to say
that '70
was the year in which it changed, but I could be mistaken. My '69 H/O is
red.

Jon

- ------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 21:24:45 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: new member

'Just got my first couple of days' worth of correspondence. You guys are
unbelievable!!!  I just got a 71 442 convertible and it hasn't been a pleasant
experience so far.  Broke down, overheat, 50 miles from seller's place.  'Was
sold a "recent rebuild" that turned out to be a glorified ring job, new timing
chain, and oil pump. 'Now being rebuilt correctly. I've owned it for a month
and it hasn't seen my driveway yet!  Anyway, it's reassuring to know that a
guy like me who is not a mechanic, but loves these cars (had a 72 Cutlass S
Conv. in my youth), has a place to turn to when other sources have been
exhausted.  Thanks in advance for all the help I'm confident I'll get in the
future. First question... how can I get some details on the history of this
car? VIN 344671M183468. Thanks again, Scott

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 21:35:41 -0400
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: Halogen bulbs

I was told that halogen bulbs are available in the US to replace
filiment type tail light bulbs etc and that they are much brighter than
the originals (obviously).  I've never seen them up here in Canada but I
lead a sheltered life.....never have a chance to go shopping....too busy
working for a living.  Are they for real.

Wayne Schwartz

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 09:32:19 -0400
From: Andy Mikesell <andymikesell@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Hard Into Reverse - Why?

Greg -

I had the same problem with my 71 Delta 888 - when the tranny engaged into
reverse it about knocked your fillings out!  I found a reputable tranny shop
who ended up replacing the U-joint.

Hope this helps -
 Andy

Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> The Delta has recently started doing something that concerns me. When
> you're idling and shift into reverse, it goes in *very* hard. Never did
> this before. Idle speed is unchanged, tranny fluid is on the mark, filter
> and fluid about a year old. Going into drive it does not do this. TH-350
> trans, BTW. Anyone know what causes this, and a (hopefully) easy cure?
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 21:37:19 -0400
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@pa.net>
Subject: 69 Cutlass headliner questions

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Well ... I have the old one out, the rods and holes marked ... what do I =
do about the windshield=20
windlass for headliner ...

I have tried ... delicately ... to remove it, but it
won't budge. I recall in earlier post someone
said to leave it and stuff new headliner with=20
a straight edge or something ...

Any advise on this would be appreciated.
=20
Ken Swick
swickka@pa.net

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<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Well ... I have the old one out, the =
rods and=20
holes marked ... what do I do about the windshield&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>windlass for headliner =
...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have tried ... delicately ... to =
remove it,=20
but it</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>won't budge. I recall in earlier =
post=20
someone</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>said to leave it and stuff new =
headliner=20
with&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>a straight edge or something =
...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Any advise on this would be=20
appreciated.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Ken Swick<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:swickka@pa.net">swickka@pa.net</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HT=
ML>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 19:42:41 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Halogen bulbs

> I was told that halogen bulbs are available in the US to replace
> filiment type tail light bulbs etc and that they are much brighter than
> the originals (obviously).

Yes, I've heard of these.  I've never used them though.  I'd be worried about
their power, though.  I'd like to replace the dash lights with something like
that, someday, but having lights that much brighter than normal may cause
problems with housing meltdowns, and power starvation, along with overheating 
of
the dimmer rheostat, and wiring, possibly.  Be forwarned, if you use, that this
might happen, but you'll definately see a brighter dash....


- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 20:21:17 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: More Olds on tv......

if you look closely to the left corner of the screen
> you see a G-body Cutlass tailight.

Hmmm...  You can bet I'll be looking for ~that~ video now!  Thanks!!!  (getting
VCR ready...  :)

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 22:45:02 -0400
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: Dualjet

Message text written by Ken Snyder
>I'd almost call them "Dual-junk"!
(INCOMING FLAMES!!!!!!!!!! AHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!)<

Acutally, the worst Rochester Carb. ever was the VaraJet.  It was a 2
barrel carb but with one primary and one secondary (as opposed to the
DualJet's primaries only).  The secondary was a variable venturi design.
This was used predominately on the Chevy 2.8l V-6 from about 1980 until
1987.  My '84 GMC Jimmy had one and I had to rebuild it like clockwork
every 20,000 miles.

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma, Ohio
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E & 4L60-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'96 DCM Impala SS (Naisso #1365)  '87 Olds Cutlass 442 (OCA #028505)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 22:58:21 EDT
From: KASOLDS@aol.com
Subject: driveshaft yoke/tranny ?

Im still working on finding a driveshaft to fit my TH350 to TH400 conversion
in my 70 Cutlass.  A friend of mine gave me a driveshaft to try out of a 72
Grand Prix with a TH400.  This one may be a little too short.  With it bolted
to the rear end the the yoke slides about 1.25-1.5 inches into the tranny
(past the rear seal).  I figure that since the tailshaft comes out about .75
inches past the rear seal there is about 2 inchesf yoke on the tailshaft.  Is
this in far enough to not cause any problems?  Is it into the pilot bushing
far enough?  Am I better off having this driveshaft lengthened since it is a 1
piece, and my stock shaft (that would need to be shortened) is a 2 piece
rubber dampend one.

Thanks
Keith

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 19:26:51 -0700
From: "John Young" <realtorjohn@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: TH-400 with overdrive?

Peter, check with your local RV people...I think it was "hone-0-drive" that
makes an add on overdrive at least out here..Butttttttttt somewhere around
$1600+ if I'm not mistaken.
realtorjohn@sprynet.com
69 442 W-32

- ----------
> From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: TH-400 with overdrive?
> Date: Monday, August 31, 1998 12:42 PM
>
> I heard that there is a company that sells an overdrive gearbox assembly
> that will bolt on BEHIND a TH-400 or TH-350. The unit will alow you to
> retain the TH-400 while giving you an overdrive gear for the highway. THe
> overdrive gear is activated by a lever. The overdrive gear will also be
> able to handle all the torque of an Olds. THere is no electrical or other
> hookups needed.
>
> If so did anyone ever hear of this and have it on there car? What does it
> go for?
> Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 23:04:33 EDT
From: LooseCanno@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 cutlass for sale-follow up

Sounds like my car, except i had a completely new interior, buckets, good
paint, no bubbles, a bunch of spare parts, and a rebuilt 350 with only 63K on
the whole car.

I paid less than half that.  I suggest you offer $3500 and keep looking.

Erik
'69 Cutlass 'S' 350 convert

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 22:16:30 -0400
From: "Steve C" <cutlass@frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: 1985 Oldsmobile 442 (msd)

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Thanks for the input and warning
    -----Original Message-----
    From: Gregory Zimmerman <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
    To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
    Date: Monday, August 31, 1998 6:27 PM
    Subject: Re: 1985 Oldsmobile 442 (msd)
   =20
   =20
   =20
        And I would like to know if there is anybody out there who can =
tell me just what I can expect with the addition of the MSD box. Thanks =
for your help
        =20
        I have a MSD-6AL (with rev-limiter).  On my 350 with Mallory =
Unilite dist., Talor Pro wires, AC delco R45something plugs and MSD =
blaster II coil.  I was having ignition problems, so I took out the MSD =
box.  After further trouble shooting, the dist. needed some parts.  I =
got the car running well again, so I put the MSD back in.  It make a big =
difference in the idle and starting.  Where the car would normally have =
stalled on cold start, the MSD keeps it going.  At high revs, I haven't =
noticed a difference.  The rev limiter works perfectly, so I would =
recommend getting it.
        =20
        After you get the MSD, be careful about touching the coil wires! =
 I was pushing a vacuum line back on the intake manifold and touched the =
positive wire which has 480 volts thanks to the MSD as opposed to 12 or =
14.
        =20
        -greg
        =20

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<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN"><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks for the input and =
warning</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Gregory Zimmerman &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:zimmermangm@email.msn.com">zimmermangm@email.msn.com</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>To:=20
    </B><A =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>=20
    &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Monday, August 31, 1998 6:27 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Re: 1985 =
Oldsmobile=20
    442 (msd)<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <BLOCKQUOTE=20
    style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
        <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>And I would like to know if =
there is=20
        anybody out there who can tell me just what I can expect with =
the=20
        addition of the MSD box. Thanks for your help</FONT></DIV>
        <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
        <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have a MSD-6AL (with=20
        rev-limiter).&nbsp; On my 350 with Mallory Unilite dist., Talor =
Pro=20
        wires, AC delco R45something plugs and MSD blaster II =
coil.&nbsp; I was=20
        having <FONT color=3D#000000>ignition </FONT>problems, so I took =
out the=20
        MSD box.&nbsp; After further trouble shooting, the dist. needed =
some=20
        parts.&nbsp; I got the car running well again, so I put the MSD =
back=20
        in.&nbsp; It make a big difference in the idle and =
starting.&nbsp; Where=20
        the car would normally have stalled on cold start, the MSD keeps =
it=20
        going.&nbsp; At high revs, I haven't noticed a difference.&nbsp; =
The rev=20
        limiter works perfectly, so I would recommend getting =
it.</FONT></DIV>
        <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
        <DIV><FONT size=3D2>After you get the MSD, be careful about =
touching the=20
        coil wires!&nbsp; I was pushing a vacuum line back on the intake =

        manifold and touched the positive wire which has 480 volts =
thanks to the=20
        MSD as opposed to 12 or 14.</FONT></DIV>
        <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
        <DIV><FONT size=3D2>-greg</FONT></DIV>
        <DIV><FONT =
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 21:09:00 -0600
From: "Fred Orcutt" <f_m_o@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: fan clutch working? Also: "40 Below"

I recently went thru the same "running hot" situation on my 350 VC.  I
changed out the water pump and switched to a 180 thermostat.  Even cut the
antifreeze:water ratio back to about 25%.  Not much help. About the time I
started to worry about head gaskets, I decided to go the rest of the way on
the cooling system.  I flushed the cooling system (even tho it didn't need
it yet), pulled and cleaned the rad (even tho it was clean and
free-flowing), and replaced the fan clutch.  Yes, I know I should've changed
the fan clutch out at the time of the water pump, as when the pump bearing
goes its likely the fan clutch goes as well.  The fan offers more resistance
with heat up, and you can sure as heck hear the difference under the hood,
like more air is being pulled thru the shroud.

Anyway, I also tried a product called "40 Below" I picked up at Schuck's
($19.99/Qt. :0).  Mixed it with one gallon A/F and the balance good ole H20.
Between the new fan clutch and the "40 Below," the VC is actually running
*cool* in 100+ degree heat after literally hours of stop and go.  While it
used to start spitting after 10 minutes of idling following a start with a
cold engine, it now will idle indefinitely sitting in the driveway without
porting a drop to the overflow tank while running or at heat soak!  I know
the fan clutch deserves a bunch of the credit and I can't verify that the
"40 Below" wetter did what it said it would do (lower engine temp
substantially), but somehow I think I got my $19.99 worth out of it.

- -----Original Message-----
From: DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com <DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com>


>In a message dated 8/31/1998 10:32:29 AM Central Daylight Time,
>creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu writes:
>
><<  I know a lot of "running hot" chatter went on a month ago, (I have it
> > saved) however, I would like to check to see if my clutch is working?
> > I've finally finished my '69 H/O, and it gets VERY hot - VERY quick when
> > I'm trying to tune her.  All the flaps and dam are on, a 180 thermo
> > (changed from 195), and a 4 core.  I suspect the clutch, but wanted to
> > see if there was a "hard and fast" way of checking.
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 23:14:28 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Hard Into Reverse - Why?

>
>The Delta has recently started doing something that concerns me. When
>you're idling and shift into reverse, it goes in *very* hard.

If it's a 200C, it's rebuild time. My 82 Cutlass did that.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 23:23:11 EDT
From: KENSOLDS9@aol.com
Subject: northern lights ( dash plaque)

just saw a northern lights chapter 1996 dash plaque . now i gota have one.
does any one out there in oldsland know were i could pick one up? its a neet
looking plaque with a 69 h/o on it .please email me back at kensolds@aol.com
	                                                                  
thanks alot
,  ken					

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 23:28:39 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Halogen bulbs

>> I was told that halogen bulbs are available in the US to replace
>> filiment type tail light bulbs etc and that they are much brighter than
>> the originals (obviously).
>
>Yes, I've heard of these.  I've never used them though.  I'd be worried
about
>their power, though. <snip>

The beauty of halogens is that they make more light than standard
incandescant bulbs for the ~same~ electrical power consumption. It has to do
with using quartz glass and an inert gas instead of a vacuum.

They do run incredibly hot though. Most sockets for halogen bulbs are
ceramic. Use them in a standard socket and they burn out in no time.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 21:39:59 -0600
From: "Fred Orcutt" <f_m_o@email.msn.com>
Subject: Paging Eric Aksomitis

Eric, I got an "undeliverable" when I tried to email you about your 69
Ninety-Eight.  Please email me. Thanks.

Fred Orcutt
f_m_o@msn.com
ntech@technologist.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 21:14:45 -0700
From: "FX O'Connor" <wwjcd@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: TH-400 with overdrive?

What you are looking for is "GEARVENDOR" Overdrive unit. It is an extra gear
that bolts on where the tail shaft is. They have application and price
listing on the net. Just so a search (I prefer www.infoseek.com) and you
should find them pretty easily. I want to do it cause then my milage will
skyrocket! It's pretty good with the aluminum heads, now what about that
with the gearvendor's overdrive unit? AWESOME!

Ben


>Peter, check with your local RV people...I think it was "hone-0-drive" that
>makes an add on overdrive at least out here..Butttttttttt somewhere around
>$1600+ if I'm not mistaken.
>realtorjohn@sprynet.com
>69 442 W-32
>
>----------
>> From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: TH-400 with overdrive?
>> Date: Monday, August 31, 1998 12:42 PM
>>
>> I heard that there is a company that sells an overdrive gearbox assembly
>> that will bolt on BEHIND a TH-400 or TH-350. The unit will alow you to
>> retain the TH-400 while giving you an overdrive gear for the highway. THe
>> overdrive gear is activated by a lever. The overdrive gear will also be
>> able to handle all the torque of an Olds. THere is no electrical or other
>> hookups needed.
>>
>> If so did anyone ever hear of this and have it on there car? What does it
>> go for?
>> Pettrix@prodigy.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 00:37:42 EDT
From: Glittra@aol.com
Subject: Oldsmobile part needed

I got your email address from the web. I was wondering if you can help me. Can
you possibly post a message to the oldsmobile mailing list about a part I have
been looking for. I have an 86 Olds Calais and I am in search of a new rack
and pinion. The original part # was 26009131 and now its new number is
26020353. I don not want the part #26046154 because that is what I have in my
car now and its not the right rack. The car is a Eurosport -6 cyclinders.

Can you please let me know if you can help?

thank you
Meryle

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 01:00:25 EDT
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: can i remove the pcv valve?

i have a '72 350 olds and im running a breather cap on one valve cover, and
the other valve cover has a pcv valve with a rubber line running up to the
carb.  sometimes at high rpms, im getting some smoke out of the exhaust, and i
want to know if this line might be pulling a little oil into the carb.  engine
has 20,000 miles on rebuild.  heads were totally redone during the rebuild.
would it be a better thing to run the pcv valve or put another breather in
there?  can you run 2 breathers?  any advise appreciated.
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 01:36:25 EDT
From: Socalolds@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hood Springs

Bob,
Didn't want to try them so have never put them on, they don't look like they'd
work to well.  Why buy something that might work but looks unoriginal when the
wrecking yards are full of good ones?  I must have a half dozen hinges and
springs in excellent shape and have thrown away just as many. Do you need a
pair?
Dennis

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 22:33:59 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: can i remove the pcv valve?

BIGJERMES@aol.com wrote:

> i have a '72 350 olds and im running a breather cap on one valve cover, and
> the other valve cover has a pcv valve with a rubber line running up to the
> carb.  sometimes at high rpms, im getting some smoke out of the exhaust, and 
i
> want to know if this line might be pulling a little oil into the carb.  
engine
> has 20,000 miles on rebuild.  heads were totally redone during the rebuild.
> would it be a better thing to run the pcv valve or put another breather in
> there?  can you run 2 breathers?  any advise appreciated.
> jeremy

 Jeremy,
The breather setup you describe is the way a 72 350 is set up from the factory.
Therefore we can presume it is not the source of the smoke (unless the breather
and/or PCV valve is plugged up).  However, if you are using aftermarket valve
covers, this could be the source.  As most aftermarket valve covers do not
incorporate the baffle as used on oem covers.  I've seen some of these chrome
covers that actually place the PCV valve/breather location right in the direct
spray from the rocker arm!  This will result in sucking oil through the PCV
valve.  Although this is more likely to occur under high vacuum conditions 
(such
as at cruising speed) rather than under WOT conditions where there is little or
no vacuum present.
  Presuming you have stock covers, clean and correct PCV valve and breather, is
there any blowby when you remove the PCV valve from the valve cover?


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 01:59:50 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Quadrajet Linkage

In the past few weeks, I have noticed a strange (yet cool) problem with
my linkage.....

87 Cutlass - 307 - Electric Quad

Right off of the accelerator, there is a wire assembly. It's a thick
wire, not like electrical wire..  More like THICK coat hanger wire.
STOCK (checked some junk yard cars before I thought of posting).  This
assembly when at WOT has a tendency to "catch" on the carb itself.  Only
at WOT.  When it catches, you get the average acceleration. All 4BBL's
though, still, I assume average.  When it catches, and "slips" off what
seems to be a "stopper", it has a much better acceleration rate, and
will still move.  Just a little.  With the wire assembly, there is not a
real potential to stick there, since there's no pressure, and the wire
is paralleled itself to the piece...

Have I streched the accel cable too far?  Like, in need of replacement?

Can I file this "block" off the carb?
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 13:02:44 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: can i remove the pcv valve?

I have a 455 and my intake and carb has no provisions for a PCV. I am
running two beathers, one on each side. I am going to take the manifold off
and drill a hole in the manifold (right under carb location). I will then
be able to setup a PCV vaccum line.

I believe you would be better offf with a PCV. Due to the fact that instead
of having crankcase fumes just exit through the breathers on there own, it
will be sucked out via PCV vaccum. Crankcase fumes may contaminate your
oil.
- ----------
> From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: can i remove the pcv valve?
> Date: Tuesday, September 01, 1998 12:00 AM
>
> i have a '72 350 olds and im running a breather cap on one valve cover,
and
> the other valve cover has a pcv valve with a rubber line running up to
the
> carb.  sometimes at high rpms, im getting some smoke out of the exhaust,
and i
> want to know if this line might be pulling a little oil into the carb.
engine
> has 20,000 miles on rebuild.  heads were totally redone during the
rebuild.
> would it be a better thing to run the pcv valve or put another breather
in
> there?  can you run 2 breathers?  any advise appreciated.
> jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 13:06:58 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: driveshaft yoke/tranny ?

I had the same problem when I put in a 400 trans. You are better off just
getting a new driveshaft made. I don't believe the driveshaft company will
take your existing shaft and lengthen it. They will just have a new tube
cut to the length required. IT cost me about $250.00 to have a new
driveshaft put in with Spicer U-Joints.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: KASOLDS@aol.com
> To: Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: driveshaft yoke/tranny ?
> Date: Monday, August 31, 1998 9:58 PM
>
> Im still working on finding a driveshaft to fit my TH350 to TH400
conversion
> in my 70 Cutlass.  A friend of mine gave me a driveshaft to try out of a
72
> Grand Prix with a TH400.  This one may be a little too short.  With it
bolted
> to the rear end the the yoke slides about 1.25-1.5 inches into the tranny
> (past the rear seal).  I figure that since the tailshaft comes out about
.75
> inches past the rear seal there is about 2 inchesf yoke on the tailshaft.
 Is
> this in far enough to not cause any problems?  Is it into the pilot
bushing
> far enough?  Am I better off having this driveshaft lengthened since it
is a 1
> piece, and my stock shaft (that would need to be shortened) is a 2 piece
> rubber dampend one.
>
> Thanks
> Keith

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 23:13:59 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: new member

CPEARLPARK@aol.com wrote:

> 'Just got my first couple of days' worth of correspondence. You guys are
> unbelievable!!!  I just got a 71 442 convertible and it hasn't been a 
pleasant
> experience so far.

> First question... how can I get some details on the history of thiscar? VIN
> 344671M183468. Thanks again, Scott

 Scott,
Welcome aboard!  Just wait until you get that 71 running right.  It WILL be a
pleasant experience!

Regarding your VIN question.

3= Oldsmobile division of GM
44= 4-4-2
67= convertible
1= model year (1971)
M= Lansing, Michigan assembly plant
183468= sequential serial number

FYI, there were only 1,304 71 4-4-2 convertibles made.  Enjoy!

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 05:16:49 EDT
From: TomW30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Halogen bulbs

    They are listed in the J.C. Whitney catalog. Taillights, directional
signals, etc.  Halogen bulbs are quite a bit brighter than regular filament
bulbs as well as being a truer white color. The worry I have with them is that
they are much hotter than normal bulbs (can burn your fingers when lit) and I
am concerned about them building up heat behind the lenses and melting or
distorting either the lense or the reflector. This may not be a
problem.......I guess a test run on one older assembly would tell.

                                              Tom

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 05:34:15 EDT
From: TomW30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Halogen bulbs

    One other thought on gaining brightness.......As you know, over time
lenses and reflectors become dull. Eastwood Co. offers a kit for buffing
plastic lenses back to the original state (well, almost). They also offer a
spray paint that will restore the reflective quality of reflectors. I have
used both and am very happy with the results. I gained a lot of brightness
without going the halogen bulb route.

                                                         Tom


P.S.  I can e-mail you the address and phone # of Eastwood if you need it.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 06:45:02 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: ISO Rack & Pinion

Not on the list; respond to Glittra@aol.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Glittra@aol.com
Subject: Oldsmobile part needed

I got your email address from the web. I was wondering if you can help me. Can
you possibly post a message to the oldsmobile mailing list about a part I have
been looking for. I have an 86 Olds Calais and I am in search of a new rack
and pinion. The original part # was 26009131 and now its new number is
26020353. I don not want the part #26046154 because that is what I have in my
car now and its not the right rack. The car is a Eurosport -6 cyclinders.

Can you please let me know if you can help?

thank you
Meryle

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 06:46:23 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: '69 CUTLASS CONV. (fwd)

Received this personally... the person is not on the list, respond
directly to XXMANTIS@aol.com if you can document this for him.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 22:25:41 EDT
From: XXMANTIS@aol.com
To: ab348@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: '69 CUTLASS CONV.

I would like some or where to find information on the 69 W-31 cutlass conv...I
belive i may have one..trying to find out if in fact it is a W-31..any
information is welcomed

                                                             thank you
                                                                  johnny


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 06:49:23 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Hard Into Reverse - Why?

Thanks for the respones so far... several have mentioned something along
the lines of "if it's a TH-200...", but as I mentioned, it's a TH-350. No
change in idle speed either. And the trans works great otherwise, no
problems at all...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 07:12:38 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Hard Into Reverse - Why?

Yeah, it's not a 200, but like I said, that's EXACTLY what mine acted like
before she died.  It might make sense to take it to a shop to have it
"diagnosed"?

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, September 01, 1998 5:50 AM
Subject: Re: Hard Into Reverse - Why?


>
>Thanks for the respones so far... several have mentioned something along
>the lines of "if it's a TH-200...", but as I mentioned, it's a TH-350. No
>change in idle speed either. And the trans works great otherwise, no
>problems at all...
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 04:32:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Parts 4 Sale

Brent,

  I'm interested in the 1970 Cutlass rear bumper (chrome one). I
replied yesterday direct, but I got some stupid message from the
mailer demon, so It didn't get through.  I guess it just doesn't like
your address or something. Anyway hit me back at sgadecki@yahoo.com
and we'll cut a deal.

stefan
sgadecki@yahoo.com
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 06:42:22 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: DON'T SPEED

Sorry about your friend Ryan. The next time that I am racing I will take
that extra time to be very careful.  Are prayers are with you.
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
17 Wins 13 Losses
======================


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Ryan D [SMTP:riviera72sss@hotmail.com]
	Sent:	Monday, August 31, 1998 3:42 PM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	DON'T SPEED

	hey guys ,i lost a frend sunday,he was racing around ,past a car and

	flipt his car 2 times,he was a good man that i hate to see go.racing
can
	be fun ,heck speeding can be fun ,but geting killd is not ,so please
be
	careful out thare ,i dont need to hear of one of you guy doing the
same.

	thanks.
	       Ryan

	                      R.I.P
	                      Dave.

	______________________________________________________
	Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 07:59:06 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: exhausted

Guys,  (and Lisa etal)

            My small block 67' Cutlass call for 2" driver side and 2 1/4"
passenger side head pipes - can I run the 442 pipes on both sides
with out leaks ?????

Tanks
The General

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 05:47:51 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Red vs. Blue hi-beam indicator

69 = red 71 was the change to blue you might see a few 70s that are blue but
not too many it was so that you wouldnt mistake it for a warning light...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mick Gillespie <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 31, 1998 4:34 PM
Subject: Re: Red vs. Blue hi-beam indicator


>-----Original Message-----
>From: Mike Rothe. <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: Sunday, August 30, 1998 9:03 PM
>Subject: Re: Red vs. Blue hi-beam indicator
>
>
>>Arrgh!  Maybe I'm dillusional.  I know I have a red one in the 69, and
>>my 71 has a blue one.  I know it REALLY doesn't make a difference, but
>>this discussion doesn't seem like it's turning up anything definitive.
>>What I have figured out so far, in my opinion, all the cars up TO 71
>>should have red, and 71 on should have blue.  That's what I'm getting
>>outta this.  But I guess the world may never know.
>>
>>Mike Rothe
>
>Heh, heh.
>I have visions of an assembly line guy at Lansing with a box of blue and a
>box of red bulbs. He's going "eenie, meenie, minee mo".  Just to confuse us
>Olds List members 30 years later.
>I also am beginning to think I'm delusional. I really was sure my light was
>blue but now I'm not even sure what color my car is; after all it's 700
>miles away. I can't even check it.
>Sorry if I contributed to the condusion.
>==============================================
>Mick Gillespie
>69 Cutlass Conv.
>80 Toronado Brougham
>mgillespie@sprynet.com
>http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
>==============================================
>List Removal & Guidelines
>http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 05:43:27 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: More Olds on tv......

how about the Chicago video "Stay The Night" the car is a 68 442
convertible...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 31, 1998 7:22 PM
Subject: Re: More Olds on tv......


>if you look closely to the left corner of the screen
>> you see a G-body Cutlass tailight.
>
>Hmmm...  You can bet I'll be looking for ~that~ video now!  Thanks!!!
(getting
>VCR ready...  :)
>
>--
>Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
>mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
>http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
>   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
>    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
>     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
>  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 09:32:48 -0400
From: RAY.COSTANZO@firstunion.com
Subject: Parking light lenses

TO: Softswitch.OAS
CC:
FROM: RAY.COSTANZO@TAOFUN1
SUBJECT:  Parking light lenses

   I accidentally erased the message with that subject.   I have an ex
   tra set of front ones for G-body, if that's what the message was ab
   out...

















































------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 06:47:12 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Halogen bulbs

>> I was told that halogen bulbs are available in the US to replace
>> filiment type tail light bulbs etc and that they are much brighter
>> than the originals (obviously).
>
> Yes, I've heard of these.  I've never used them though.  I'd be
> worried about their power, though.

The most common ones are replacement backup lamps. They're actually
a halogen bulb epoxied into the base of an 1156 bayonet lamp so it
will plug into the regular socket (remember that halogen bulbs have
a different style of base). One variation comes with a beeper built
in, to sound off when you're backing up.

Note that as backup lamps, they're usually on for only a short time.
Any length of time beyond that and they will very quickly melt the
light assembly... which is why you don't see them used in taillamps
or brake lamps.

> I'd like to replace the dash lights with something like
> that, someday, but having lights that much brighter than normal
> may cause problems with housing meltdowns, and power starvation,
> along with overheating of the dimmer rheostat, and wiring,
> possibly.

The words "sheer lunacy" come to mind here.  :-)  But the sockets
are different anyway; a halogen bulb won't swap in without a lot
of surgery.

> Be forwarned, if you use, that this might happen, but
> you'll definitely see a brighter dash....

Yeah, those flames will add a warm orange glow.  :-)

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 06:51:03 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Red vs. Blue hi-beam indicator

> I have visions of an assembly line guy at Lansing with a box of
> blue and a box of red bulbs. He's going "eenie, meenie, minee mo".
> Just to confuse us Olds List members 30 years later.

When I first test-drove my '82 Cutlass, a million years ago now,
it was nighttime. The first time I switched to High Beam, I was
rewarded with a blast of blinding white light from the High Beam
indicator, which had no lens in it for some reason. First order
of business was to fix that. When I opened up the dash and popped
the speedo out to stick a lens on the back, I found that the lens
had already been installed, stuck down under the adhesive foam
that runs around the back edge of the speedo dial, but was a full
two inches away from the hole it was supposed to cover. That was
the sort of Quality Control you got from GM in the early '80's...

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 98 08:19:50 -0500
From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Subject: '87 442 - Low reading on voltmeter guage?

All,
Never thought a two car garage w/ a house attached was so much work!  Haven't
been on the list much and usually catch up every couple of days.

Anyhow a LONG while back, 'bout 5 years ago, my '87 442 voltmeter gauge
would only register 11-12 volts cruising and drop to 10-11 at a stop (brake
lights ALWAYS bring it down)  When I had it repainted last year, the
battery died & I replaced it w/ a DieHard (May 1997)  Same time my right
turn signal indicator would "ghost blink", only noticable at night.  After
the Die Hard "Died Hard" twice and would not take a third charge, I
borrowed the battery from my '94 LSS and went searching for bad
connections, etc.  Found that the body shop broke the right fron turn
signal bulb in putting the bumper back together. New bulb and the "ghost
blink" is gone and the proper "click" has returned.  Got a new Die Hard
($10) and thought things would be OK.

Put the new "fully charged" (Saw it read 12.5 at the local Parts America)
battery in and damn if the voltmeter still won't register over 12. Now at
cruise it is barely in the OK zone and drops down to the yellow mark on the
guage @ stoplights.

Time to diagnose this thing once & for all.  Here are a couple more things
w/ the car to help.
1. The "Keys left in the ignition stupid!" dinger doesn't ding.
2. Car does need the timing bumped up, idles fine at stoplights w/ A/C on,
   a little lumpy w/o A/C.
3. All lights seem ok now, checking fuses tonight.
4. Alternator rebuilt 1 week ago by a VERY reputable company in Bel Air,
   MD. ($65)
5. Connections to alternator cleaned, but there was a build-up of oily gunk
   on the plug that goes in the bottom of the alternator (creates "ground
   field, color red going in, black coming out going to wiring loom)
   Cleaned thoroughly w/ Castrol SuperClean)
6. Where does the voltmeter get it's info, from connection listed in #5?
7. Bad voltmeter guage? (Has read low for 5+ years)

Not sure where else to look.  Thought I'd ask the "Collective" before going
to a mechanic to diagnose the electrical gremlins.

To the person who rough estimated 4 turns for the idle jet for the 85-87
Q-jet, THANKS, it helped mine also after a rebuild from the Carburator Shop
3 years ago. I fiddled w/ it and didn't know where to go back to. 4 turns
REALY smoothed it out ( I had it at 3.25, too rich)

Thanks in advance

 -----  Brad Nicholson (OCA's WebGuy)
|  |  | OCA# 18984
|  |  | 1987 442 W-42
|  |  | 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
|  |  | President, Oldsmobile Centennial Club (Maryland Chapter of OCA)
|  |  | Oldsmobile Centennial Club Web Site: http://www.erols.com/brad442/occ
| /|\ | H: brad442@erols.com
|/ | \| W: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
|  |  | OCA: WebGuy@oldsclub.org
 -----  Oldsmobile Club of America Web Site: http://www.oldsclub.org

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 09:54:16 -0400
From: RAY.COSTANZO@firstunion.com
Subject: Carter AFB

TO: Softswitch.OAS
CC:
FROM: RAY.COSTANZO@TAOFUN1
SUBJECT:  Carter AFB

   So I have a Carter AFB, 75 cfm on my 403, and I am having off-idle
   throttle stumble problems.  The thing idles fine, but has a cough a
   nd drop problem during initial acceleration.  So I assume it has so
   mething to do with transfer from idle circuit to throttle Circuit (
   ???).  i;VE HEARD THAT DRILLIng a 1/32" hole in each throttle plate
    can alleviate the problem.
   Also, by playing with the idle mixture it affects how bad it stumbl
   es, but does not solve the problem.  Perhaps I just have too big of
    a carb, but I had an old Holley 780 on originally, and it ran exce
   llent (and then it was stolen])  Plus with the big cam, etc. etc. t
   hat I have in there, I think 750 could be a good size.
   If it were a Holley, I'd be playing with the accelerator pump(?), b
   ut where is such a thing on a Carter?  Thanks alot]
   Ray Costanzo
   87 409 Cutlass
   ray.costanzo@firstunion.com




































------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 98 08:28:15 -0500
From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Subject: Grandfather to Bravada

Went to a local all cars invited show Sunday and saw the following Olds (out of
150 cars & trucks)

My '87 442 w/ baby seat installed
'57 Ninety Eight Convertible w/ Continental Kit & skirts white w/ red/white 
int.
'57 Eighty Eight lead sled, black, hydraulics, bullet tips in the grill
'71 442 clone: 350 w/ W-27 rear (got rear from a GTO guy for $50 2 years ago)
'71(2?) 442 Convertible, Viking Blue w/ white interior
and
'68 Cutlass S Convertible 4WD!

Mounted the body on a stretched early 70's K-5 Blazer frame and I had to get on
my tip toes to see into the interior (I'm 5' 9.5" tall) Body was straight, and
sounded healthy. Found out later it was a C**** 350. This was a clean job, not
butchered together.  Could this have been the grandfather of the Bravada!

 -----  Brad Nicholson (OCA's WebGuy)
|  |  | OCA# 18984
|  |  | 1987 442 W-42
|  |  | 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
|  |  | President, Oldsmobile Centennial Club (Maryland Chapter of OCA)
|  |  | Oldsmobile Centennial Club Web Site: http://www.erols.com/brad442/occ
| /|\ | H: brad442@erols.com
|/ | \| W: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
|  |  | OCA: WebGuy@oldsclub.org
 -----  Oldsmobile Club of America Web Site: http://www.oldsclub.org

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 07:18:58 PDT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: driveshaft yoke/tranny ?

Hi guys,


You could also get a driveshaft that is too long and have it shortened
and rebalanced.  It may be the cheaper way to go.  Have the driveshaft
shop give you an estimate on shortening and getting a new one made.

Good Luck,

Chris Rivier
'66 Delta 88...The BEAST
'88 Festiva...ZIPPY 165K+@40mpg


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 10:22:01 -0400
From: RAY.COSTANZO@firstunion.com
Subject: internet provider, non-Olds

TO: Softswitch.OAS
CC:
FROM: RAY.COSTANZO@TAOFUN1
SUBJECT:  internet provider, non-Olds

   I hate the email system here at work, so I've decided to go ahead a
   nd get internet access and all at home.  i'D JUST LIKE TO HEAR SOME
    OPINIONS ABOUT various providers and their prices and feautres.  T
   hnks]
















































------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 10:34:46 EDT
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: Parts 4 Sale answered

 saw your note i have a rear 70 bumper..

sell for $60 + shipping  old guy ga..

770  723-9345  jeff

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 11:02:33 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Carter AFB

Ray, I don't know about Carters in specific, but maybe a little about Carbs
in general.  I used to have a hesitation on acceleration and the first thing
the mechanic went for is the accelerator pump.  A bog like that is usually
caused by too much air and not enough fuel.

So the question:  why drill holes into the throttle plates?  Wouldn't this
allow more air into the engine and strengthen the bog?

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: RAY.COSTANZO@firstunion.com <RAY.COSTANZO@firstunion.com>
To: oldsmobilechebuctonsca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, September 01, 1998 9:58 AM
Subject: Carter AFB


>
>TO: Softswitch.OAS
>CC:
>FROM: RAY.COSTANZO@TAOFUN1
>SUBJECT:  Carter AFB
>
>   So I have a Carter AFB, 75 cfm on my 403, and I am having off-idle
>   throttle stumble problems.  The thing idles fine, but has a cough a
>   nd drop problem during initial acceleration.  So I assume it has so
>   mething to do with transfer from idle circuit to throttle Circuit (
>   ???).  i;VE HEARD THAT DRILLIng a 1/32" hole in each throttle plate
>    can alleviate the problem.
>   Also, by playing with the idle mixture it affects how bad it stumbl
>   es, but does not solve the problem.  Perhaps I just have too big of
>    a carb, but I had an old Holley 780 on originally, and it ran exce
>   llent (and then it was stolen])  Plus with the big cam, etc. etc. t
>   hat I have in there, I think 750 could be a good size.
>   If it were a Holley, I'd be playing with the accelerator pump(?), b
>   ut where is such a thing on a Carter?  Thanks alot]
>   Ray Costanzo
>   87 409 Cutlass
>   ray.costanzo@firstunion.com
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 08:09:20 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: '87 442 - Low reading on voltmeter guage?

> Put the new "fully charged" (Saw it read 12.5 at the local Parts
> America) battery in and damn if the voltmeter still won't register
> over 12. Now at cruise it is barely in the OK zone and drops down
> to the yellow mark on the gauge @ stoplights.

I think at this point it's time to put in a proper ammeter; you need
to know what your charging system is doing. A voltmeter will tell you
how full the bathtub is, but an ammeter can tell you if it's leaking.

> Time to diagnose this thing once & for all.  Here are a couple more
> things w/ the car to help.
> 1. The "Keys left in the ignition stupid!" dinger doesn't ding.

They usually don't; the chime module frequently barfs at a young age.
I don't think there's a connection here.

> 5. Connections to alternator cleaned, but there was a build-up of
> oily gunk on the plug that goes in the bottom of the alternator
> (creates "ground field, color red going in, black coming out going
> to wiring loom) Cleaned thoroughly w/ Castrol SuperClean)

Is it now a tight solid connection? I had similar symptoms on an old
Chevyvan many years ago that turned out to be a loose red 10-gauge
wire that (on that old alternator design) was the two-wire connector
going into the side of the alternator. Engine ran okay, but power to
the rest of the vehicle was down to about 10 volts.

> 6. Where does the voltmeter get it's info, from connection listed
> in #5?

No, usually it's just plugged into a switched +12V supply in the dash.

>7. Bad voltmeter gauge? (Has read low for 5+ years)

Maybe, but I doubt it.

> Not sure where else to look.  Thought I'd ask the "Collective"
> before going to a mechanic to diagnose the electrical gremlins.

I suggest you install an ammeter in the charging circuit and get a
readout on what's going on. It sounds like your charging circuit
isn't, and eventually your battery dies.

The first thing your mechanic will probably do is a charging system
output test. Actually you can probably do this yourself with an
engine analyzer, but the ammeter is a little more convenient because
you can leave it in for long-term measurements while you drive.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 08:20:28 -0700
From: "Gary Andresen (At Home - Personal e-mail address)" <gandresen@home.com>
Subject: RE: internet provider, non-Olds

I highly recommend IBM.net.

You can get a 30-day trial at http://www.ibm.net/

Very good support and highly rated.
 
Gary Andresen

'55 Old 88 2-door Hardtop
with 455 Olds and T400
http://www.442.com/andresen.html


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of
RAY.COSTANZO@firstunion.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 1998 7:22 AM
To: oldsmobilechebuctonsca
Subject: internet provider, non-Olds



TO: Softswitch.OAS
CC:
FROM: RAY.COSTANZO@TAOFUN1
SUBJECT:  internet provider, non-Olds

   I hate the email system here at work, so I've decided to go ahead a
   nd get internet access and all at home.  i'D JUST LIKE TO HEAR SOME
    OPINIONS ABOUT various providers and their prices and feautres.  T
   hnks]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 11:18:39 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: '87 442 - Low reading on voltmeter guage?

Brad, looks like it's time to get out the multimeter. Check the output at
the alternator (the big red wire and a good ground), with a weak battery you
should be getting at least 13.8 volts at around 1000 RPM. If you are not,
then the alt. is bad. It you are getting the correct voltage then check at
the battery and voltmeter, if it is low then check the voltage on the cables
at the starter. The path goes from the battery to the starter and from the
alt. to the starter. From there it goes through fusible links to the fuse
block. I have had the fusible links go bad and cause the alt. light to come
on but the alt was putting out 14 volts. The battery would not be charged
either. A loose or corroded connection at the starter will do this also.

Parts America and most battery shops will check your system for free. They
have a tester that will load check the battery and alt. Just because a
battery reads 12.5 volts without a load, it still could be bad. This tester
will discharge the battery by putting a load on it and check how long the
voltage will hold up. It also will check how long it takes to recover under
a charge. The alt can be checked also to see if it will output the proper
voltage and current under load. Other things to check are corroded cables
and bad/missing grounds.

Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the.....Past
	


	Put the new "fully charged" (Saw it read 12.5 at the local Parts
America)
	battery in and damn if the voltmeter still won't register over 12.
Now at
	cruise it is barely in the OK zone and drops down to the yellow mark
on the
	guage @ stoplights.

	Time to diagnose this thing once & for all.  Here are a couple more
things
	w/ the car to help.
	1. The "Keys left in the ignition stupid!" dinger doesn't ding.
	2. Car does need the timing bumped up, idles fine at stoplights w/
A/C on,
	   a little lumpy w/o A/C.
	3. All lights seem ok now, checking fuses tonight.
	4. Alternator rebuilt 1 week ago by a VERY reputable company in Bel
Air,
	   MD. ($65)
	5. Connections to alternator cleaned, but there was a build-up of
oily gunk
	   on the plug that goes in the bottom of the alternator (creates
"ground
	   field, color red going in, black coming out going to wiring loom)

	   Cleaned thoroughly w/ Castrol SuperClean)
	6. Where does the voltmeter get it's info, from connection listed in
#5?
	7. Bad voltmeter guage? (Has read low for 5+ years)

	

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 11:33:43 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: internet provider, non-Olds

Check out http://www.gte.net/ and click on "Sign up with GTE.net".  Here
just part of the information there and you can sign up on-line.

GTE Dial-Up Internet Access Service Includes:
*	First 10 days free
*	Free Browser
*	E-mail
*	Over 600 local access numbers nationwide
*	24 hours a day, 7 days a week member support
*	Free space for your personal home page
*	Surf Beat(tm) monthly online newsletter
GTE Internet Packages
GTE offers an array of Dial-Up Internet Access packages that are designed to
meet your specific Internet needs. Dial-up packages range from $19.95/month*
to $29.95/month*, or $39.95/month for ISDN*.

BTY I work for GTE, but I do not receive anything by recommending them. I
have them at home and have been very happy with their service. I have had
AOL and ATT.

Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the....... Past


	
	I highly recommend IBM.net.

	You can get a 30-day trial at http://www.ibm.net/

	Very good support and highly rated.
	 
	

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1460
*********************************
