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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1459


oldsmobile-digest       Monday, August 31 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1459



Re: Carb
Only F@rd I'd Drive was: SHOly Crap!!!  (Non Olds)
Ceramic Coating Follow-up
Best Quadrajet carb's?
Re: UNBOUNCE: Engine ID
Re: 69 cutlass for sale-follow up
Re: fan clutch working?
Re: Aluminum heads <Gainesville> shift points
Re: 69 cutlass for sale-follow up
'66 Toro whole or for parts
RE: fan clutch working?
Re: Oil Pressure / Oil Cooler
Re: Carb
Re: Floorpans for 71 delta 88
parking light lenses
Re: '66 Toro whole or for parts
"Weird" Electrical problem
service manuals found some
Re: electrical problem need help!
RE: service manuals found some
Re: "Weird" Electrical problem
Re: 69 cutlass for sale-follow up
electrical problem need help!
Glass Codes
Olds drag motor
DON'T SPEED
Re:  Olds Drag Engine
Re: FS 1986 442
Re: DON'T SPEED
Re: electrical problem need help!
hood
torque for mondello stud and strap kit???
Re: "Weird" Electrical problem
Re: electrical problem need help!
Re: fan clutch working?
Re: 1985 Oldsmobile 442 (msd)
Re: DON'T SPEED
Re: DON'T SPEED
Re: torque for mondello stud and strap kit???
Re: torque for mondello stud and strap kit???
Re: parking light lenses
Hard Into Reverse - Why?
More Olds on tv......
Re: Peter Bausch (sp?) was Re: will it work?
Re: torque for mondello stud and strap kit???
Re: FS 1986 442
Re: Hard Into Reverse - Why?
Re: To the makers of this list
fs:  403
Stud kit
Re: Peter Bausch (sp?) was Re: will it work?
Re: Red vs. Blue hi-beam indicator
Re: More Olds on tv......
Re: Hard Into Reverse - Why?
Re: "Weird" Electrical problem
Re: Composite? headlights
Re: Composite? headlights

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 12:57:12 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Carb

In a message dated 98-08-30 18:41:08 EDT, you write:

<< Do I have to use Toro only carbs, or can I get one from a 455 or another
425 to work?  >>

Someone else has addressed the thread-repair fitting so I will not waste time
describing it. I will say that I have had one on the carb for more than a
year. It could possibly interfere with the fit of your aircleaner as it does
on my 2GC. A previous owner put lotsa holes in my aircleaner so I whacked a
dent into it to accommodate fitting.

Now.
Any Qjet will bolt up.
The real problem is likely to be the choke system.
Especially if the choke coil on the 1967 Toro is like the 1966 (This is really
a Q for the Toro list at Armchair.com or *.net or wherever they are.
It is possible that all that is different is the choke linkage. Best bet;
eplace only what is needed to replace the threads. On 2GC all I NEED to do is
replace the top of the carb (broken air cleaner support and inlet threads).
Anything else is excessive.

Hell, you can prolly salvage whaat you need from a yarde.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 13:27:18 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Only F@rd I'd Drive was: SHOly Crap!!!  (Non Olds)

Well Chuck;

I met a guy recently.

He uses the same bank branch as I do.

I guess he drives his F@rd to work and back.

It is a F@rd 6550.

A F@rd front-and-backhoe!

Massive yellow monster!

Does mebbe 25 tops.

But looks kinda cool in traffic!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 12:30:08 -0500
From: "Reed, Steve" <sreed@cp.varco.com>
Subject: Ceramic Coating Follow-up

Hey all,
	After I posted the reply I got back about the ceramic coating on
exhaust manifolds, a few of you inquired about the "Correct Usage" of
the manifolds.  I then wrote back, and this is the reply I got to that.

Hi Steve--"correct usage" would mean general cleaning of dirt,oil or
items that if left on the headers or manifolds would bake on and cause
moisture to remain close to the coating for a length of time.  Maintain
coated items  as you would any other part of the engine or car body that
you want to remain in good condition.  Clean with light soap & water on
the cast iron finish & black finish -use aluminum polish on the
cermachrome finish.  Do not use a polish with grit. Exhaust temp over
1300 degrees will cause the cermachrome to loose some of its luster on
the first bends. Temperatures over 1600-1800 degrees will cause the
black
to gray somewhat  where it will be the hottest.
The main function of the coatings are to preserve &  keep the heat
inside
the exhaust tubing.The fact that it will not rust or burn off are a
bonus
to their appeal.
I hope this has answered your questions-if not let us know.
Thanks, Lona

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 13:34:07 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Best Quadrajet carb's?

I haven't seen any responses on this subject, are we answering direct? The 350
kickdown bracket is seperate of the carburetor on all the vehicles I have
seen. Just bolts to the back two carb to manifold bolts. The best carbs would
probably have to be pre-72, due to emissions, and also off of high performance
models at that. They all flow relatively similiar CFM's, so year of carb body
wouldn't make a whole lot of difference. Some chev trucks have metering rods,
which seem to be about the only major difference in these carbs, that are
designed to work with bigger cams than most cars. Also some of the trucks have
the fuel transfer slot in the rods to smooth out throttle transition. That
would require getting a couple of different carbs/parts though.  Dorian


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 13:35:05 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Engine ID

<< I have a 71 cutlass Supreme conv. that I purchased 2 years ago. This
summer
I blew a head gasket (350). When I pulled the heads, I notice the coolant
ports aren't all the same as the ports on the block. (About half of the
block
ports exist on the heads) >>
___________

This is normal.  Keep in mind that these holes are not only used for
coolant flow, but also serve as the method for removing the sand cores
after casting the block.  They are not required for coolant flow (actually,
they's probably disrupt flow if left open) so they are closed off with the
head and head gasket.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 12:45:01 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: 69 cutlass for sale-follow up

> saw the car over the weekend. It's red with white interior, 350, TH350.
> HAS: bench seats
>          113,000 miles
>          rallaye wheels
>          new rear bumper
>          crank windows
>          new top, tires, shocks
> NEEDS
>           decent paint but bubbling on rear quarters
>           new seat covers
>           water pump
> ASKING: $8,000. but says he would be open to offers
> Question. What should I pay?

Bruce,

I just come from the bookstore. The "old car price guide" gives a price
of $ 3000 for a No. 4 and $ 6000 for a No. 3 car. If you compare the
description of a 3 (which is basically a full working, very good looking
20 footer) with your car it does not really match... (seats, paint, w-pump)
I think you have a 3-4 right there. But to end the discussion from my
side here the answer: I would pay 5.5 k for the car. At least start off
with 5 and don't go over 6k! I am pretty sure there are not that many
buyers out there waiting in row with you. Sometimes you need a little
patience and you maybe get the owner down. Sometimes a visit with the
cash in your pocket often helps the owners to decide for lower prices and
fast cash...
Good Luck, and keep us posted!
George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 13:52:44 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: fan clutch working?

In a message dated 98-08-31 11:10:35 EDT, you write:

<< I suspect the clutch, but wanted to
 see if there was a "hard and fast" way of checking. >>

     Just put a new clutch on a BB Chev truck, and at idle, you could actually
hear it engage and disengage by listening for it with the hood up.   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 14:00:45 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: Aluminum heads <Gainesville> shift points

I use Mickey Thompson  ET streets  9 1/2 in   26 tall.  The launch was off idle
, I use to launch at 1500 rpm but have to work more on it since new heads 60ft
sucks {tire spin} Shift points where 5300.   I am still playing with that now,.
I am going to bolt 200 lbs. in trunk and try it again wed. eve.That should keep
me above11.99 and I will than work on new shift points.       butch  68  442
post The Viking wrote:

> On Sun, 30 Aug 1998 WMACHINES@aol.com wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 98-08-30 09:25:50 EDT, you write:
> >
> > << Well here it is , Temp 99 humidity 95%  1st run 12.192, 2nd 11.961, 3rd
> >  11.902,
> >  4th 11.880. no 5th run track shut me down till proper safty equipment.
> >  60ft went to hell,
> >  I know it has a lot more.  it was worth the time,  the aggravation, {
> >  the money?} well at least I think so. { the wife dont}    Butch 68 442
> >  post>>
> >
> > Run IHRA.  There class goes 11.49 before cage since NHRA is 11.99.  So find
a > > IHRA and let it rip > > > > W MACHINES (Mark Prince) > > 72 442 W-30 > >
12.14@110 with Ga heads > > > Impressive numbers.  What launch and shift points
do you recommend?  Was > this on street tires or drag radials or slicks? > > Al
Varhus > Columbus, Ohio > http://www.infinet.com/~avar >
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html > Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111 >
Mid Ohio Chapter #136 >   Gem City Rockets

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 14:18:31 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 cutlass for sale-follow up

In a message dated 98-08-31 10:43:15 EDT, you write:

<< Bruce,

 please give us some more info:

 >          113,000 miles
 original miles?
Yes, He's had the car since 1984

 How does engine compartment look like?
It looks like it's never been touched. the valve covers are copper and the
rest of the engine looks rusty (but would probably clean up well.. Alternator
was replaced when he got the car 10 years ago.

 Original air filter and valve covers?
yes
 2bbl or 4bbl carb?
2bbl
 Does everything look original or is it aftermarket-dressed-up?
 looks real original, needs some tlc
 >          rallaye wheels
 original olds wheels?
Yup. painted inserts red, same as body. looks like a medium priced Maaco
maybe three years old, except for the bubbling at the quarters, decent job

 -Did you check the vi number?
 -Does it have the original block?
didn't get that far, but he understands I would do that plus put in on a lift
to check the underside (floors, gas tank, frame, etc.)

 -Is the paint and interior original colors?
paint appears to be. Interior is.
 -Did you open/close the top (hydraulics work?)
top looks new and works perfectly.
 -Does top have glass or plastic window?
glass
 -Did you drive it???
yes and it was great. Nice & tight. But thetop was down. Engine seemed a
little tired, but with new plugs and wires....I also floored it and it kicked
in. Sounded a little strained but it did move,
 The questions regarding originality may not be of any interest to you but
 if you ever plan to sell the car yourself again, it is. As far as you
 describe the car I would never pay 8.000 for it! It has way too many miles
 and needs too much work (especially paint is getting expensive) for that
 kind of price. Have you checked on a classics price guide yet? I could do
 this for you on lunchbreak if you wish. >>

Overall, I think it's a good car from an honest guy. He didn't try to hide
anything and i'm inclined to buy it (for less if I can) .

Bruce

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 13:27:15 -0500
From: Paul Brillhart <u17058@uic.edu>
Subject: '66 Toro whole or for parts

Well, it's whole less the engine.  That's mine.  Good Turbo 400,
wheels w/spare(no center caps), PS setup, Pbrakes(drum..rem it's a '66),
good hood w/minor surface rust from sitting in the sun, good pass. side
door, good head lights, front sheetmetal, grille is bent, trunk and
quarters are dented up, interior had good parts, but not the seats, they
need to be redone.  No A/C. Driver's door and fender has been creased.
Don't rem the pass. fender, I'll look again if anyone's interested.  If
there are any parts you need or you're interested in the rolling chasis
w/turbo 400, e-mail me off the list.  I need it gone the Saturday
afternoon of Labor Day weekend as that's when I'm pulling the motor.
Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 12:39:05 -0600
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: RE: fan clutch working?

> In a message dated 98-08-31 11:10:35 EDT, you write:
>
> << I suspect the clutch, but wanted to
>  see if there was a "hard and fast" way of checking. >>
>
>      Just put a new clutch on a BB Chev truck, and at idle, you
> could actually
> hear it engage and disengage by listening for it with the hood
> up.   Dorian
>

I always thought the best way to check these was to run the motor till it's
nice and hot, then turn it off and try to spin the fan by hand.  If it spins
freely the fan clutch is bad.  They should only spin freely when cold.  I
could be wrong, though...

Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 01:38:09 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure / Oil Cooler

How long have you run this pressure with your motor?(miles) It just that I
have heard different people say different things about pressure. Some say
40plus while cruising, others 50plus. Who to believe??
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Oil Pressure / Oil Cooler
> Date: Monday, August 31, 1998 11:36 AM
>
> I don't think it hurts anything.  I've run for hours at 3000RPM and 35
lbs
> pressure, all day long....this is significantly lower than the 40 or so
around
> town I get..
>
> Todd Morris
> 71 442
>
> >It has been normal in the Old's I've owned to drop about 5 lbs on
> >extended freeway drives.  I say *has* because I've found a solution,
> >synthetic oil.  My theory is that the oil is getting hot and the
> >viscocity is breaking down, and synthetic oil doesn't do that.
>
> >Now, the big question is was that 5 psi drop really hurting anything?
> >Probably not.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 14:55:41 -0400
From: "Johnny Gage" <bladernr@roava.net>
Subject: Re: Carb

I finally found a place locally that sells rebuilt carbs, adn I have one on
order from Tomco using the original part numbers...  I have to give my old
one back as a core, but what the heck.  I will look for a couple more in
junk yards, swap meets, etc, but right now I NEED a nonleaking carb to get
me through the winter.

But I thank all of you for your help, yet again.  I still want to put a
larger carb on it, btu I dont even know the specs for the original one.  So
one last question:  anyone know the specs for the q-jet number 7027131???
Thanks again!!!
><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> 67 Toronado  ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><>

Jeffrey Lane, EMT-ST ICQ#12362327 http://www.roava.net/~bladernr
  bladernr@roava.net  EMTBoy9@aol.com


Sr. Sergeant, Equipment Officer  | EMT-ST/Driver
Fort Lewis Rescue Squad, Inc.  | United Ambulance Service
Salem, Virginia    | Roanoke, Virginia

"Knowledge is power.  But power corrupts, and corruption is a sin, so if
you seek knowledge, you will burn in hell. . ."

- -----------------------------Carpe Noctum------------------------------
- -----Original Message-----
From: DYeager535@aol.com <DYeager535@aol.com>
To: bladernr@roava.net <bladernr@roava.net>
Date: Monday, August 31, 1998 12:52 PM
Subject: Re: Carb


>Get any answers yet? I can check direct interchange for you, but I would
say
>any BIG engine GM will be close...just don't toss your's because you will
want
>some parts swapped. I would think any 455, or over 400 CID Cadillac would
>work.  Dorian
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 12:44:15 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Floorpans for 71 delta 88

I doubt replacement will be easy, but Floor-pans are hidden,
single-layer steel.  I've seen many re-built from almost nothing left
and the quality was good enough to staisfy all but the fussiest
original-only type car-person.  As well, the cost is substantially less
than body-tin repair.

Just my .03 cents (inflation)

Eric
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/eric.shtml


Andy Mikesell wrote:
>
> I need to replace the rear floorpans on my 71 Delta 88 convertible.  Any
> advice on parts suppliers?
>
> I tried "Oldsmobile USA Parts Supply" in VA, but they didn't have them
> for my car.  I also looked through Hemmings, but didn't find anything
> that seemeed to be applicable.
>
> Thanks,
> Andy
> andymikesell@mediaone.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 14:55:36 EDT
From: Kromm20@aol.com
Subject: parking light lenses

I own a 1968 Oldsmobile Delmont 88 and am looking for a pair of parking light
lenses and gaskets. Very hard to find. If you know where I might possibly find
these, please let me know.  I am running out of ideas fast. Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 13:49:50 -0500
From: Paul Brillhart <u17058@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: '66 Toro whole or for parts

Paul Brillhart wrote:
>
> Well, it's whole less the engine.  That's mine.  Good Turbo 400,
>

Sorry,  That would be a Turbo 425...front wheel drive.

Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 11:59:12 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: "Weird" Electrical problem

Here's the dilema. My car would turn off normally before I changed my
heads. Now that I have my aluminum heads installed the only way (short
of retarding the distributor till it dies) is to put it in REVERSE and
turn off the key. It wont turn off in any other positions! Anybody have
any clues as to what is causing this? Could it be stray voltage? If so,
where from?
Thanks

Ben
62 Olds F-85
http://www.primenet.com/~olds442/forsale.html
68 Olds 442 (well worth the aluminum heads to me!)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 15:05:22 EDT
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: service manuals found some

this is for whoever was looking for the service manual for the i think it was
an 84 cutlass (dont remember)but i just ordered one yesterday for my 82
cutlass it was $60.00 plus 6 for shipping  it was at helminc.com they have
almost every thing just email them what you want it takes about 2 hrs for a
reply     Rich

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 12:11:37 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: electrical problem need help!

> i was driving my car yesterday its an 85 cutlass supreme v-6 3.8
> and the oil light came on checked the oil it was fine didnt think
> anything of until it got dark out and when i started it up this
> time the oil light came on again but no other lights light

The oil level may be fine, but the light is warning you about low
_pressure_, not the same thing. Your oil pump may be going bad, but
the first thing to try is installing a mechanical pressure gauge
and see if maybe it's just the sending unit going bad (especially
if the sending unit is wet on the outside with oil).

> when i turned on my lights that little buzzer that goes off when you
> lights are on and the car off would not go off and the dash lights
> seem a little dimmer than they usually are my guess is a short
> somewhere but dont know where yet does any on have any ideas

I think you more likely have a bad ground connection somewhere; a
short would blow your fuses, but a bad ground allows all kinds of
weird things to happen when the current doubles back through another
circuit that shares the same ground connection. Done any electrical
work recently? New stereo, for instance? Is the door pin switch
working properly? (i.e. Do your interior lights work properly?) How
about the headlight switch: does the dash backlighting dimmer work?
I think we need a little more info. It sounds like an important
ground connection in the dash may have gotten knocked off or broken,
but it's kind of hard to tell from here.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 15:12:45 -0400
From: "Weaver, Stanleigh G" <Stanleigh.Weaver@PHL.Boeing.com>
Subject: RE: service manuals found some

Thanks Rich,
It was I who was looking for such a manual. I'll contact them.
stan

> ----------
> From: 	RICH6986@aol.com[SMTP:RICH6986@aol.com]
> Sent: 	Monday, August 31, 1998 3:05 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	service manuals found some
>
> this is for whoever was looking for the service manual for the i think
> it was
> an 84 cutlass (dont remember)but i just ordered one yesterday for my
> 82
> cutlass it was $60.00 plus 6 for shipping  it was at helminc.com they
> have
> almost every thing just email them what you want it takes about 2 hrs
> for a
> reply     Rich
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 12:19:38 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: "Weird" Electrical problem

> Now that I have my aluminum heads installed the only way (short
> of retarding the distributor till it dies) is to put it in REVERSE
> and turn off the key. It wont turn off in any other positions!

Umm... did you reattach the ground straps to the engine (engine-body
and engine-frame, I think) when putting everything back together?

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 14:33:49 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: 69 cutlass for sale-follow up

>  >          113,000 miles
>  original miles?
> Yes, He's had the car since 1984
Good!
>
>  How does engine compartment look like?
> It looks like it's never been touched. the valve covers are copper and the
> rest of the engine looks rusty (but would probably clean up well.. Alternator
> was replaced when he got the car 10 years ago.
Good, but sure sounds like No. 4....
>  Original air filter and valve covers?
> yes
good!

>  2bbl or 4bbl carb?
> 2bbl
Less desirable (2bbl=250 HP factory, 4bbl had 310!)

>  Does everything look original or is it aftermarket-dressed-up?
>  looks real original, needs some tlc
I think at least it is better to have a kinda "unkept" original then a
messed up - dressed up one.

>  >          rallaye wheels
>  original olds wheels?
> Yup. painted inserts red, same as body.
Yuck, :-) not my taste...

>  -Did you check the vi number?
>  -Does it have the original block?
> didn't get that far, but he understands I would do that plus put in on a lift
> to check the underside (floors, gas tank, frame, etc.)
yes, you should defenitely do that before you buy it.

>  -Is the paint and interior original colors?
> paint appears to be. Interior is.
Check vin!

> top looks new and works perfectly.
>  -Does top have glass or plastic window?
> glass
very good!
>  -Did you drive it???
> yes and it was great. Nice & tight. But thetop was down. Engine seemed a
> little tired, but with new plugs and wires....I also floored it and it kicked
> in. Sounded a little strained but it did move,
Well, that does not sound too overwhelming :-) remember the mileage,
maybe the engine itself is getting a little tired too...

> Overall, I think it's a good car from an honest guy. He didn't try to hide
> anything and i'm inclined to buy it (for less if I can) .
Yes, Bruce, just get it under 6k and you will be fine. If you can't, pay
what ever it is worth in your eyes. I understand that you fell in love
with this car and that is how it has to be! Keep us posted how everything
went!
Best regards, George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 15:36:30 EDT
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: electrical problem need help!

ok there has been no electrical work done to it within the past three years,
interior lights work fine,   the dimmer works, everything works except that
buzzer stays on and no idiot lights come on when i first start up the car like
the fasten seatbelt light and when i have the emergency brake on that doesnt
light up either everything was working pefectly on saturday then sunday comes
around and poof it happened

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 15:42:40 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Glass Codes

A few month back, someone was asking about glass identification brake
downs.  Well I found this in an old article so i thought i would pass it
along to the list


Glass Codes

Soft - Ray
SAFETY  L  PLATE
     O
     F
AS2            VA
SOLID TEMPERED
DOT 15 MXX

Soft - Ray.................. Tinted Glass
Safety Plate ...............Original equipment glass
L-O-F.........................Libby-Owens-Ford
AS2...........................Side Glass
AS1...........................Windshield
V ..............................Calender Year
A ..............................Month

Calendar year glass codes

1963               C
1964                G
1965                J
1966                A
1967                Z
1968                 X
1969                 V
1970                 T
1971                 N
1972                 Y


Month of production

January              N
Febuary             X
March               L
April                  G
May                  J
June                  I
July                   U
August              T
September         A
October              Y
November           C
December            V

I hope some of you find this as usefull as I have


Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 15:33:23 -0500
From: wayne_drusch@co.harris.tx.us
Subject: Olds drag motor

>Bench racing at the bar the other day, Defending Olds as usual, and my
ch*vy
>friend said that the Olds Pro Stock Drag motor was the Olds external
block
>w/ch*vy internals.............say it aint so !!!  Any thoughts so I can
shut
>him up???

>Bernie

The way I remember is the block was designed to take BB Che*y internals
but used Olds designed heads and cam profiles.

E. Wayne Drusch
71 Cutlass Conv

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 13:41:56 PDT
From: "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
Subject: DON'T SPEED

hey guys ,i lost a frend sunday,he was racing around ,past a car and
flipt his car 2 times,he was a good man that i hate to see go.racing can
be fun ,heck speeding can be fun ,but geting killd is not ,so please be
careful out thare ,i dont need to hear of one of you guy doing the same.

thanks.
       Ryan

                      R.I.P
                      Dave.

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 13:51:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joe Padavano <joe_padavano@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re:  Olds Drag Engine

>Bench racing at the bar the other day, Defending Olds as usual, and my
ch*vy
>friend said that the Olds Pro Stock Drag motor was the Olds external
block
>w/ch*vy internals.............say it aint so !!!  Any thoughts so I can
shut
>him up???

>Bernie
____________

I assume you're talking about the Olds DRCE, as raced by Warren Johnson.  Your
friend is correct, it's basically a set of Olds block and head castings
designed to accept big block Chevy internals.  One interesting note is that it
uses a BOP bellhousing bolt pattern instead of the Chebby bolt pattern.  Front
cover and water pump interface is Chebby, however.

Olds tried to ensure that all the shortcomings of the Chebby motor were
eliminated in this new design.  The block was designed to accept up to a 650
cu in displacement.  Heads are unique and, interestingly, use ten valve cover
bolts per side, just like "real" Olds motors.  Note that since Olds has
dropped out of NHRA racing sponsorship and Pontiac has become the body style
of choice in Pro Stock (due, in no small part, to Pontiac contingency money
replacing the Olds contingency money), the DRCE II is now a "Pontiac" motor.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 13:52:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joe Padavano <joe_padavano@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: FS 1986 442

One interesting note, during our discussion, was that he was friends
with a guy who's dad was a VP in Oldsmobile for years.  He got the very
last 88 Cutlass Supreme Classic RWD off the line.  Supposedly it had
carryover 442 stuff in it from 87, notably a 120 mph speedometer.  And
the friend's dad also said that 1985 was SUPPOSED to be the last year
for the RWD Cutlass, which was going to be replaced by the Cutlass
Calais FWD introduced in 85,  but because of strong 84 and 85 sales of
all the G bodies, plus their popularity, they carried them over for a
few more years.
___________

That's almost correct.  1985 _was_ supposed to be the last year for the G-body
cars, but they were due to be replaced by the GM-10 (aka W-body) FWD cars
(Cutlass Supreme, Grand Prix, Regal) - see, even the names carried over), not
the FWD N-body (Calais).   Development screwups delayed the GM-10 introduction
until 1988, so the G-body cars were kept in the lineup until that time.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30





_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 14:04:56 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: DON'T SPEED

> heck speeding can be fun, but getting killed is not, so please be
> careful out there, i don't need to hear of one of you guy doing
> the same.

And wear a seat belt. You'd be surprised what sort of accidents you
can survive with one, or not survive without one.

- -- Andy, who witnessed a nasty collision just last Friday...


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 14:12:26 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: electrical problem need help!

> everything works except that buzzer stays on and no idiot lights
> come on when i first start up the car like the fasten seatbelt
> light and  when i have the emergency brake on that doesnt light
> up either

Okaaaay... I'm going to guess a bad ground in the dashboard, maybe one
of the large connector plugs going in the back of the gauge cluster.
I think most if not all of those warning lights share a common ground
coming off the cluster, so if that breaks, no warning lights. Current
trying to go to ground will double back through any other complete
circuit, such as the warning buzzer.

Feel like carefully dismantling the gauge cluster to see if everything
is clean and tight? (Didn't think so.  :-)

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 16:12:14 -0500
From: "Kijowski, Stan" <SKIJOWSKI@midland.com>
Subject: hood

hi all,
has anyone had any experience with aftermarket/reproduction oai hoods. i
would like to find an oai hood to put on my 72  convertible.   i prefer to
have a heavyweight bolt on hood that i could use stock hinges. anyone heard
of a company called APS&C (or something like that?)
you can reply to me directly at      skijowski@midland.com
or call me  816-801-2300

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 16:26:01 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: torque for mondello stud and strap kit???

Hi Guys,

just building my engine. Yesterday I put the crank in and I wanted to put
on the stud and strap kit I got with the car. Former owner claims it to
be a joe mondello kit.

Does anybody know the torque for the nuts????????

I don't dare to put them stud and straps on with the torque specs of the
factory main caps only!

Thanks, George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 14:28:09 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: "Weird" Electrical problem

whats your idle speed ? could be dieseling?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew C. Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 31, 1998 12:21 PM
Subject: Re: "Weird" Electrical problem


>> Now that I have my aluminum heads installed the only way (short
>> of retarding the distributor till it dies) is to put it in REVERSE
>> and turn off the key. It wont turn off in any other positions!
>
>Umm... did you reattach the ground straps to the engine (engine-body
>and engine-frame, I think) when putting everything back together?
>
>-- Andy
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 16:51:06 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: electrical problem need help!

Andy's probably right, sounds like a ground problem and I'm afraid it's
where he says he thinks it is. No fun, good luck.
Lou Biggs

- ----------
> From: Andrew C. Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: electrical problem need help!
> Date: Monday, August 31, 1998 4:12 PM
>
> > everything works except that buzzer stays on and no idiot lights
> > come on when i first start up the car like the fasten seatbelt
> > light and  when i have the emergency brake on that doesnt light
> > up either
>
> Okaaaay... I'm going to guess a bad ground in the dashboard, maybe one
> of the large connector plugs going in the back of the gauge cluster.
> I think most if not all of those warning lights share a common ground
> coming off the cluster, so if that breaks, no warning lights. Current
> trying to go to ground will double back through any other complete
> circuit, such as the warning buzzer.
>
> Feel like carefully dismantling the gauge cluster to see if everything
> is clean and tight? (Didn't think so.  :-)
>
> -- Andy
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 17:57:18 EDT
From: DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: fan clutch working?

In a message dated 8/31/1998 10:32:29 AM Central Daylight Time,
creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu writes:

<<  I know a lot of "running hot" chatter went on a month ago, (I have it
 > saved) however, I would like to check to see if my clutch is working?
 > I've finally finished my '69 H/O, and it gets VERY hot - VERY quick when
 > I'm trying to tune her.  All the flaps and dam are on, a 180 thermo
 > (changed from 195), and a 4 core.  I suspect the clutch, but wanted to
 > see if there was a "hard and fast" way of checking.

 From my experience, if you start it up and let it idle, watch the fan.
 If it seems a little sluggish, like it's not spinning the same speed as
 the water pump, carefully try to stop it by grabbing the clutch unit
 with your hand, again CAREFULLY. I wouldn't want you to loose or break
 fingers. If you can hold it still while the engine's still running and
 no belts squeal, then the clutch is bad.

 This may not be a sure-fire way, more experienced list members will
 correct me if I'm wrong, but in the past, this is what I've had happen.

 Good luck....
 --
 *************
 Matt Cremean >>
I would NEVER try to stop a fan clutch while running,,, start the engine and
let it warm up to operating temp. turn OFF the engine,,  try to spin the fan
blade,, it should not spin more then one time around,, accually it should not
turn much at all,, hope this helps,, Jeffrey Fieldsend
Board of Director of OCC- Oldsmobile Cutlass Coupes 73-77

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 17:33:42 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: 1985 Oldsmobile 442 (msd)

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01BDD505.7F788700
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable


And I would like to know if there is anybody out there who can tell me =
just what I can expect with the addition of the MSD box. Thanks for your =
help
   =20
    I have a MSD-6AL (with rev-limiter).  On my 350 with Mallory Unilite =
dist., Talor Pro wires, AC delco R45something plugs and MSD blaster II =
coil.  I was having ignition problems, so I took out the MSD box.  After =
further trouble shooting, the dist. needed some parts.  I got the car =
running well again, so I put the MSD back in.  It make a big difference =
in the idle and starting.  Where the car would normally have stalled on =
cold start, the MSD keeps it going.  At high revs, I haven't noticed a =
difference.  The rev limiter works perfectly, so I would recommend =
getting it.
   =20
    After you get the MSD, be careful about touching the coil wires!  I =
was pushing a vacuum line back on the intake manifold and touched the =
positive wire which has 480 volts thanks to the MSD as opposed to 12 or =
14.
   =20
    -greg
   =20

- ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01BDD505.7F788700
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<HEAD>

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http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>And I would like to know if =
there is anybody=20
    out there who can tell me just what I can expect with the addition =
of the=20
    MSD box. Thanks for your help</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have a MSD-6AL (with =
rev-limiter).&nbsp;=20
    On my 350 with Mallory Unilite dist., Talor Pro wires, AC delco =
R45something=20
    plugs and MSD blaster II coil.&nbsp; I was having <FONT=20
    color=3D#000000>ignition </FONT>problems, so I took out the MSD =
box.&nbsp;=20
    After further trouble shooting, the dist. needed some parts.&nbsp; I =
got the=20
    car running well again, so I put the MSD back in.&nbsp; It make a =
big=20
    difference in the idle and starting.&nbsp; Where the car would =
normally have=20
    stalled on cold start, the MSD keeps it going.&nbsp; At high revs, I =
haven't=20
    noticed a difference.&nbsp; The rev limiter works perfectly, so I =
would=20
    recommend getting it.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>After you get the MSD, be careful about touching =
the coil=20
    wires!&nbsp; I was pushing a vacuum line back on the intake manifold =
and=20
    touched the positive wire which has 480 volts thanks to the MSD as =
opposed=20
    to 12 or 14.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>-greg</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01BDD505.7F788700--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 18:33:49 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: DON'T SPEED

I'm sorry to hear about what happened.  I lost a friend myself earlier this
summer in a jetski/boating accident.  Those kind of collisions never turn
out good for the someone that *you* know.

You never know just how much is *too* much until it's *too* late.

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Ryan D <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 31, 1998 4:43 PM
Subject: DON'T SPEED


>hey guys ,i lost a frend sunday,he was racing around ,past a car and
>flipt his car 2 times,he was a good man that i hate to see go.racing can
>be fun ,heck speeding can be fun ,but geting killd is not ,so please be
>careful out thare ,i dont need to hear of one of you guy doing the same.
>
>thanks.
>       Ryan
>
>                      R.I.P
>                      Dave.
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 18:41:52 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: DON'T SPEED

Ryan D wrote:
>
> hey guys ,i lost a frend sunday,he was racing around ,past a car and
> flipt his car 2 times,he was a good man that i hate to see go.racing can
> be fun ,heck speeding can be fun ,but geting killd is not ,so please be
> careful out thare ,i dont need to hear of one of you guy doing the same.

my condolences, Ryan. Sucks having a friend die. I almost know the
feeling. 1 week before graduation this year, a friend of mine was
showing of, ripping a smokey burnout out of the school parking lot. he
lost control when he slammed second and hit a telephone pole. I was
worried. After I found out that he was okay, I was p*ssed at him for
wrecking his beautiful car. it was a 95 Z28 6spd. I know most people
don't care that this car is gone, but it really was a fun car, and I
admired Sam for working since he was 12 to be able to pay for everything
on this magnificent machine. But warm pavement, almost bald tires, and
an underestimating of your driving skills, and in a split second your
car can't sit on all 4 wheels at the same time, and nobody can open your
drivers door to pull you out. Next thing you know, you're waking up in
the hospital while fiberglass is being removed from your arm.

So, again, ryan, you have my sympathy......
- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl)
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl)
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl)
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl)
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 18:34:50 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: torque for mondello stud and strap kit???

> Does anybody know the torque for the nuts????????
>
> I don't dare to put them stud and straps on with the torque specs of the
> factory main caps only!
>
Hmmmm.....Good golly, I don't remember off hand.  I got that info
SOMEWHERE.....I put one of these kits on, but you have to shave off 1/2"
off the tops (with engine upside down) of the main caps where they go
on.  #s 2, 3 and 4.

Don't quote me on this, but I THINK it was something like 80 for the
studs, but just to make sure, you MAY consider contacting Mondello
himself.  If I find that info, I'll post it.  I KNOW I have it, since
it's with all the specs on my 71 455, but can't find it right off hand.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 18:41:26 EDT
From: RPTW32@aol.com
Subject: Re: torque for mondello stud and strap kit???

In a message dated 98-08-31 17:29:28 EDT, you write:

<< Yesterday I put the crank in and I wanted to put
 on the stud and strap kit I got with the car.  >>

1/2" studs are 100 ft/lbs oiled.
7/16" studs are 85 ft/lbs oiled.

Using this kit on my motor. You did have No. 2,3 & 4 caps milled .500 didn't
you.
A must if using strap kit.

Rgds.
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 16:39:30 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: parking light lenses

I have a 69 Olds 88, Possibly these would work (Car is definitely
parked) ?????

Eric
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/car_08.shtml  <-- Car in question

Kromm20@aol.com wrote:
>
> I own a 1968 Oldsmobile Delmont 88 and am looking for a pair of parking light
> lenses and gaskets. Very hard to find. If you know where I might possibly 
find
> these, please let me know.  I am running out of ideas fast. Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 19:46:47 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Hard Into Reverse - Why?

The Delta has recently started doing something that concerns me. When
you're idling and shift into reverse, it goes in *very* hard. Never did
this before. Idle speed is unchanged, tranny fluid is on the mark, filter
and fluid about a year old. Going into drive it does not do this. TH-350
trans, BTW. Anyone know what causes this, and a (hopefully) easy cure?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 18:53:06 -0400
From: "Angel Castrodad" <angleki@prtc.net>
Subject: More Olds on tv......

Has any of the younger Oldsmobilers seen the video for Metallica's song
Fuel? I think it's one of the most awesome piece of film celebrating
cars....especially muscle cars. But at the very end of said video, they
shjow a big fat tire starting to do a monster burnout. And guess to what car
it's attached to.....if you look closely to the left corner of the screen
you see a G-body Cutlass tailight.

Ahhh...such beautiful sight.....

Angel Castrodad
angleki@prtc.net
'86 442-----> 307 H.O. (5A), TH-350 (not my fault,previous owner), 3.73
rear......Ooooh, T-tops !!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 18:55:34 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Peter Bausch (sp?) was Re: will it work?

All my fingers had graduated to whisky.  By the way, the correct spelling is
Berusch.  And yes, only the correct damper is correct.  Like the barber
said, "Who's next?".  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: KarlAune@aol.com <KarlAune@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 31, 1998 12:59 PM
Subject: Re: Peter Bausch (sp?) was Re: will it work?


>In a message dated 98-08-30 18:15:35 EDT, you write:
>
><< >> I believe what is needed is willa 307 vib.dmpr worlk on 403.
> >>
> >> Karl thinks not.
> >
> > Say whut?
>
> [.......saving you the rereading of a hilarious Green-ism.....]
>
> That's what Karl is saying. Highly abbreviated, of course...
>  >>
>
>Andy is right that my missive was in error. The original posting was
>concerning a 307 v.d. on a 455, not a 403.
>
>(hope he's got lotsa spare rods!)
>
>Peter: Sorry about that, my right hand wanted a beer.
>
>Karl

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 18:57:17 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: torque for mondello stud and strap kit???

> 1/2" studs are 100 ft/lbs oiled.
> 7/16" studs are 85 ft/lbs oiled.
>
Thanks for clearing that up.  Found my spec sheets.  Yes, I used 85
ft./lbs. as well.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 18:59:21 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: FS 1986 442

> That's almost correct.  1985 _was_ supposed to be the last year for the 
G-body

What can I say about third hand info?  :)  Thanks for the input.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 19:07:56 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Hard Into Reverse - Why?

Greg, mine did this for a while before I got the tranny rebuilt.  It got so
bad, that after an extended drive, I could turn off the car by putting it in
reverse.  :-)  The tranny shop said that the reverse area on my tranny is
weak (TH-200-C), so I'm sure that all those rough engagements are what
caused the reverse clutches to fail.  I'm not sure what tranny you have in
the Delta (surely not a TH-200-C?), but the fix for mine was a tranny
rebuild.  :-(

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 31, 1998 6:49 PM
Subject: Hard Into Reverse - Why?

>The Delta has recently started doing something that concerns me. When
>you're idling and shift into reverse, it goes in *very* hard. Never did
>this before. Idle speed is unchanged, tranny fluid is on the mark, filter
>and fluid about a year old. Going into drive it does not do this. TH-350
>trans, BTW. Anyone know what causes this, and a (hopefully) easy cure?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 20:07:30 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: To the makers of this list

On Mon, 31 Aug 1998, Johnson, Sam wrote:

<Nice thank-you snipped>

You're very welcome!

> What is the history behind the idea of the list and the 442.com web-site
> anyway.  I but It's makes for a  great story huh.

Yeah, one of what-have-I-got-myself-into. ;-) When I got my Cutlass at
the end of '93, it was suffering from years of neglect. In trying to fix
the problems I posted questions to the auto newsgroups with little
success. I found there was no Olds mail list like there was for other
makes, so I suggested to Chebucto that if they would host a list, I'd
administer it. They started it up in May of '95. We now average about 600
members at any given time. There are days when I wonder why I do this...
;-)

One of the early members here was Bryceman. I remember the day when he
suggested he could set up a web page for Olds (what became www.442.com)
and we all scoffed. Well, most of us. ;-) Especially when he told us
about his unlimited disk space. But you can see what he did, it's
fantastic. And of course, folks like David Brown who took on the job of
creating the FAQ need a thank-you also. And it's all just spiralled out
from those early days. I think Olds is now one of the better-represented
makes on the net.

That's the reader's digest version... I'm leaving out a lot, like some of
the characters here in the early days: Mike Frederick, The Wiz (don't
ask), Bill Culp, etc., etc.... it got lively (and silly) at times...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 19:07:02 EDT
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: fs:  403

<A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/rainforest/canopy/4535/myengine.html">click
here to view</A>      make me an offer if interested.

mikeytvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 19:05:13 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Stud kit

Oh, and one more thing....

The studs go in no more than HAND tight into the block.  Maybe even
backed off a smidge.  The reasoning is because if you bottom the threads
of the stud in the block, it COULD cause uneven thread stresses due to
the stud trying to cock itself after bottoming.  Don't worry, when you
use the specified torques, the bolt will stretch, providing the
necessary clamping forces to keep everything tight.  I know it SOUNDS
weird, but that is how you do it using studs vs. bolts.  A dab of thread
sealer may ease the concience, if necessary.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 19:23:21 EDT
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: Peter Bausch (sp?) was Re: will it work?

PETER,,,,,CALL ME AND I'LL GIVE YOU THE DETAILS ON THE BOP

I MADE A CALL FOR YOU...YOUR PHONE WAS BUSY

CALL MR PRES   770  723=9345.....

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 18:36:17 -0700
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Red vs. Blue hi-beam indicator

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Rothe. <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, August 30, 1998 9:03 PM
Subject: Re: Red vs. Blue hi-beam indicator


>Arrgh!  Maybe I'm dillusional.  I know I have a red one in the 69, and
>my 71 has a blue one.  I know it REALLY doesn't make a difference, but
>this discussion doesn't seem like it's turning up anything definitive.
>What I have figured out so far, in my opinion, all the cars up TO 71
>should have red, and 71 on should have blue.  That's what I'm getting
>outta this.  But I guess the world may never know.
>
>Mike Rothe

Heh, heh.
I have visions of an assembly line guy at Lansing with a box of blue and a
box of red bulbs. He's going "eenie, meenie, minee mo".  Just to confuse us
Olds List members 30 years later.
I also am beginning to think I'm delusional. I really was sure my light was
blue but now I'm not even sure what color my car is; after all it's 700
miles away. I can't even check it.
Sorry if I contributed to the condusion.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================
List Removal & Guidelines
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 19:48:52 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: More Olds on tv......

Angel Castrodad wrote:
>
> Has any of the younger Oldsmobilers seen the video for Metallica's song
> Fuel? I think it's one of the most awesome piece of film celebrating
> cars....especially muscle cars. But at the very end of said video, they
> shjow a big fat tire starting to do a monster burnout. And guess to what car
> it's attached to.....if you look closely to the left corner of the screen
> you see a G-body Cutlass tailight.
>
> Ahhh...such beautiful sight.....

Yes, I've seen it. Can you say "no-YEAH!!!!""" ?

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl)
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl)
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl)
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl)
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 07:02:37 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Hard Into Reverse - Why?

Do you mean that there is a lag or when you put it in reverse, it will lag
for a second and then slam into gear. Mine does that too...I heard if you
have a manual/automatic valvebody and it is a race prepped trans that it is
normal.....
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
> To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Hard Into Reverse - Why?
> Date: Monday, August 31, 1998 5:46 PM
>
>
> The Delta has recently started doing something that concerns me. When
> you're idling and shift into reverse, it goes in *very* hard. Never did
> this before. Idle speed is unchanged, tranny fluid is on the mark, filter

> and fluid about a year old. Going into drive it does not do this. TH-350
> trans, BTW. Anyone know what causes this, and a (hopefully) easy cure?
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 18:26:30 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: "Weird" Electrical problem

> Here's the dilema. My car would turn off normally before I changed my
> heads. Now that I have my aluminum heads installed the only way (short
> of retarding the distributor till it dies) is to put it in REVERSE and
> turn off the key. It wont turn off in any other positions! Anybody have
> any clues as to what is causing this? Could it be stray voltage? If so,
> where from?

Umm...  Does the car have a column mounted ignition switch?  (It'd probably be
an add-on column, but the question arises in ~my~ mind) If not, I'm uncertain,
but if the key ~is~ in the column, it sounds like more of a mechanical problem
with the shift gate/ign switch linkage.  Still sounds odd, though.

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 17:43:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: ef01@sprynet.com
Subject: Re: Composite? headlights

On my 91 Delta 88 I had a similar problem it was a combination of things. First
pull the buld out and use a hair dryer to dry the moisture up. My major problem
was I had a small hole in the lense where the is a nipple I think a alignment
tool sits on it. Anyway  I used expoxy to fill the hole. Also I have found that
a lot times the bulbs don't seat perfect. Especially if like mosts cars you
can't see what your doing and bending your arm at some unatural angle to twist
the bulb in. So what I did was pull the lenses out then put the buld in on the
work bench they go in a lot better when you can see what you are doing. Also I
used a little GE silicone around the o-ring just to make sure. No moisture in a
year. At least the 66 has sealed beams.

Erik Ferguson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 18:54:00 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Composite? headlights

Dodge had a bad problem with that, it seems.  When I worked there, it seemed
like we were ~always~ replacing taillights that filled with dirt.  Under
warranty, of course...  Seemed like the Intrepid was the worst for 'em.  Get 
'em
on gravel, and just wait for the lights to fog up...  Apparantly the sealer 
they
used between the two styles of plastic just didn't hold up well.  Add in a
little moisture and a little dust, and ~presto:~ fogged up lights.  (although
~some~ customers added a slight ~accent~ to that word...  :)

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1459
*********************************
