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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1491


oldsmobile-digest    Thursday, September 17 1998    Volume 01 : Number 1491



unsubscribe
Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?
Re: The Pinging 307
unsubscribe
Re: The Pinging 307
Member countries; (was Olds list opinions wanted)
Re: The pinging 307
82 GN's
Re: Inert plastic, was: Carb crap, Car Prob, Needle&seat, the Spanish
Inquisition Re: dwell problem Unilite Distributor Re: Impala & Cutlass Re: 455
w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio? Re: rough running finally fixed!!!! Re: 82 GN's Re:
Engine bog Edelbrock Performer RPM "kit" Computer Chip. 72 Cutlass guage swaps?
EGR manifold question RE: 82 GN's Re: EGR manifold question Olds Master 
Cylinder
Pics Re: Save My Fathers Oldsmobile Re: EGR manifold question TIMING LIGHTS '69
Antennas Re: '69 Antennas Re: '69 Antennas Re:47 sub frame Car for sale Re: '69
Antennas Re: '69 Antennas Re: '69 Antennas Re: h*lp RE: '69 Antennas RE: 72
Cutlass guage swaps? olds engine in truck? Re: still overheating Re: '69
Antennas RE: 82 GN's Re: Virus Warning Update Re: Another Overheating Question!
RE: Another Overheating Question! Carb Problems Re: Another Overheating
Question! Re: EGR manifold question Re: Car/Parts 4 sale Re: Olds Master
Cylinder Pics Re: car prob?? was Re: Kane County, IL show & swap & car prob??
Re: V8 Diesel 260CuInch (4.3l) olds engine can't get into Rocket Talk Rochester
disassembly Washington junk yards Cutlass Supreme 3.4 6 cyl. Re: EGR manifold
question Re: EGR manifold question Re: TIMING LIGHTS Re: Installing Drip
Moldings Re: 82 GN's Re: Installing Drip Moldings Re: car prob?? was Re: Kane
County, IL show & swap & car prob?? Re: TH-200 swap Re: 82 GN's Re: 82 GN's

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 14:57:57 -0500
From: Gregg Buffington <proheat@chibardun.net>
Subject: unsubscribe



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 16:10:02 EDT
From: JCRASH7@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?

<<<<<<83 Delta with 2.5 4 banger with 1.07:1>>>>>>

An 83 DELTA WITH A 2.5 4 BANGER???!!!?!?!?!?  MY CAR HAS A 307 AND IT'S A
DOG!!!!!!!!!!  Sorry, but I just don't believe it...

Joe
84 DRB

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 16:17:43 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: The Pinging 307

Thanks for your thoughts, Tom.  Every now and then, I do put the premium
fuel in there.  I'll try a bottle of fuel injector/carb cleaner and a bottle
of octane booster and I'll see how she does.

Jason Adcock
E-mail: rocketolds@vt.edu
Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Q. Bartee <tbartee@mitre.org>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, September 17, 1998 3:54 PM
Subject: Re: The Pinging 307


>Well, Jason, I've had two Olds Cutlasses over a period of 14 years (1 V6
>and the latest a 307 V8) and my experience is that as time goes by and
>miles get put on the car, they slowly ping worse and worse.  The V6
>eventually pinged big-time (at about 150K) even when set at specs.  The V8
>(which now has 153K miles) only pings under a very heavy load, and not too
>often, and it's usually not noticeable unless you're driving with the
>windows down (and even then it would only be noticeable to a sensitive
>ear).  On both cars, later in their life, I had to use the high-octane fuel
>or the pinging would be a lot worse.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 15:34:48 -0500
From: Gregg Buffington <proheat@chibardun.net>
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 15:51:00 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: The Pinging 307

>List, does anyone have experience with an engine that just won't stop
>pinging? <snipped>  I guess this pinging is because of
>a lean condition, but why?

Look really carefully for a vacuum leak. Don't forget brake booster.


> Does the K&N filter actually let too much air
>in?

Maybe. A regular filter doesn't cost too much to give it a try.


> I'm planning on going home this weekend, so I'll get a bottle of fuel
>system cleaner so maybe a gummed-up orifice will be opened up.

Carbon deposits can produce this result. I've not had too much luck/success
with fuel sys cleaners, though.

Good luck,

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 16:50:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: dsenko@UU.NET (Drew Senko)
Subject: Member countries; (was Olds list opinions wanted)

> Sometimes it would be nice just to know how far this list has taken us.  I
> know in Canada and the U.S. but where in these countries and where else -
> One form Norway the other night - that was nice to know.  The information is
> very informative and interesting.  Just my opinion.
> Talk to you later.
> Joan


There are currently members on the Olds list and/or digest from the
following countries:

Australia
Canada
Denmark
Finland
France
Netherlands
New Zealand
Norway
US

I can remember years ago we had a list member that I think was in the
US military and on assignment somewhere in South America, but he may have
moved back to the homeland.

Shipping rates may be reasonable within the USA, but keep this list of
countries in mind when you comment about shipping.  I bet that shipping
within Canada is a snap also.  I have no idea what happens when you try to
ship across borders.  What would it cost to ship a hood overseas vs. within
the US?  Of course, the overseas buyer may have no other choice, but
knowing the whereabouts of the part may help make the decision.

Oldsmobiles are enjoyed by a global community!

 --                           ______________                     _
Drew Senko                   / Convertibles \                    |\
dsenko@uu.net                \_____Rule!____/     .__====-_._____|_\______
Vienna, VA, USA                            O      [   ___  |-     |  ___  \
http://members.aol.com/drewinva              o o  =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)
______________________________________________________\_/____________\_/_____

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 13:47:09 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: The pinging 307

Take off the carb and look down the intake to see if the EGR tubes
(coming up from the bottom of the manifold, directly below the carb) are
plugged with carbon.  If that's not it, check timing.

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 17:10:42 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: 82 GN's

> 16 total '82 Buick GN's built with the turbo... very rare.  But they were
> not "black" in color.  They were carbed too.  The '84 GN was the first year
> with the SFI.
>
>
Weren't they a gray/silvery color with funky looking wheels?  I remember
back in early 86 I went to look at a pristine 70 W-30 for sale for
$2800....the guy also had an 82 Turbo GN he wasn't selling.  Was gray or
silvery color.  I thought it was a bogus ride, but it had all the
goodies with the turbo V-6.  Never knew that they made an 82.  Learn
something new everyday.  Still, I think the W-30 outclassed it...even
with the Kermit the Frog green interior with gold/black exterior
(matched build sheet).  UCK!  Couldn't convince the soon-to-be wife that
it would make a great wedding gift.  :(

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 17:15:13 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Inert plastic, was: Carb crap, Car Prob, Needle&seat, the Spanish
Inquisition

<< Lexan? >>

Uh, nope that is a strong plastic used for windows and I had heard it was
used
in bullet-proofing, but Karl disbelieves that.
__________

Believe it, Karl.  Lexan was originally developed for the space program as
the impact-resistant material for space suit visors and helmets.  It  _is_
used for bulletproof windows.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 17:19:18 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: dwell problem Unilite Distributor

About 5 months ago, I put in a Mallory Unilite mechanical advance
distributor in my rebuilt 69 350....The points were not opening at all ...
Ken Swick
swickka@pa.net
___________

Uh, Ken, uh perhaps that is due to the fact that the Unilite is Mallory's
photoelectric distributor, using an LED, photocell, and chopper wheel to
trigger the spark (hence the "lite" part of Unilite).  I think you are
talking about one of Mallory's point-type distributors.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 17:18:50 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Impala & Cutlass

This may not go over too well, but I'd ditch the 442 for the Chevy.  You
can filter that 87 down my way...

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

keep this Olds related, I am facing the choice of what to do this
>winter.  I can't deal with three vehicles again, but Idon't want to
>drive
>the Impala either.  However, given the choice, the Impala will go ,
>even
>though it is faster.  The '87 442 will never be sold if I can help it.
> It
>may not be fast, but it looks and sounds good, and I still get the
>question
>"does that have a 442 CID engine in it?".
>

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 17:42:15 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?

yeah, and it runs 3.8 second quarters.  No, it's all lies.  And I didn't
really build the cams with dowel rods and golf tees either.  I don't
really own an 88 anymore either.  I've never owned a 2.5L car either.
all lies...
sorry

But, the 307 88 (84) I did have was also a dog...
Partially because the distributor was immovable and the timing was
retarded 16 degrees or something ridiculous like that.

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

On Thu, 17 Sep 1998 16:10:02 EDT JCRASH7@aol.com writes:
>
><<<<<<83 Delta with 2.5 4 banger with 1.07:1>>>>>>
>
>An 83 DELTA WITH A 2.5 4 BANGER???!!!?!?!?!?  MY CAR HAS A 307 AND
>IT'S A
>DOG!!!!!!!!!!  Sorry, but I just don't believe it...
>
>Joe
>84 DRB
>

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 17:34:52 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: rough running finally fixed!!!!

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

On Thu, 17 Sep 1998 13:11:15 -0400 "Gregory Zimmerman"
<zimmermangm@email.msn.com> writes:
>After replacing my entire ignition system (all those annoying HEI
>postings I had)), and the engine still ran like crap!  I was really
>disappointed to spend $300 to find that out.
>
>I took the Edelbrock Performer carb apart.  I took out every nut and
>bolt that would come loose and sprayed crab cleaner down every hole I
>could find.  I found a tiny little piece of what looked like saran
>wrap under the bottom of one of the primary venturi things.  After
>putting it all back together, it runs perfectly!
>
>-greg
>
Well, it sucks about spending that money and the fact that a damn Saran
was the problem, but it's cool you're running alright now!

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 14:38:49 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 82 GN's

- ->>Mike Rothe wrote:
>>
>Weren't they a gray/silvery color with funky looking wheels?

Yep, that would be one. About 8 years ago my friend and I were in a
K-Mart parking lot when a 60ish grandmother type pulled in to the lot in
one of those. Two tone with the big ugly BUICK on the side if memory
serves. We asked her if she wanted to sell it, by she said her son
wanted it when she got rid of it. (it was one of the ones with the turbo
too, we saw it!)

Olds Content: The Oldsmobile G bodies are a HELL of a lot better looking
than the Buick ones :-)


Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 05:51:30 -0400
From: Andy Mikesell <andymikesell@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Engine bog

Thanks for the info - I took to a shop today and indeed, it was timing.
Andy
Delta 88 convertible 455

Ray Costanzo wrote:

> All my prior boggin problems turned out to be caused by timing.  Play
> around with that.
>
> Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
>                         Bucks County, PA
>
> On Wed, 16 Sep 1998 09:36:42 -0400 Andy Mikesell
> <andymikesell@mediaone.net> writes:
> >I recently replaced my carb, points, and vacuum advance.  The rebuilt
> >Rochester 2 bbl carb was tuned at a local shop.  The engine was
> >running
> >fine, but a bog / stall has started occurring and recently is much
> >worse.  Any ideas to what could be causing this?
> >
> >The bogging occurs at the top of the shift (1-2, 2-3) under light load
> >and upon acceleration between 5-10 mph.  Bog does not occur under WOT.
> >
> >Is it a bad carb rebuild?  Something much different?  Any ideas?
> >
> >Thanks - Andy
> >
> >
>
> _____________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 17:48:50 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Edelbrock Performer RPM "kit"

I need suggestions!...I have just installed a Edelbrock Performer RPM cam,
lifters, intake, and Performer carb(basically a Carter w/ electric choke). I
didn't install adjustable rockers with this kit, as was deemed neccasary by
Edelbrock. I am curious to know if I am the only one who has done this, as the
engine "seems" to be running pretty damn good!Oh!...I forgot to mention the
specifics!...It's a '65 330 with the 10 1/4:1 compression. I have not done ANY
modifications to the "bottom end" or the heads. I have modified the ignition
by putting in a Pertronix ignitor and "Blaster 2" coil, Accel 8.8 plug wires.
I would like suggestions as for what I should do now...timing, jet changes,
head work(NOT the Clinton kind:)....)? I have had the exhaust upgraded to 2
1/2 in. duels with an "h-pipe" just after the transmision tail...feeding
3-chamber flowmasters. It sounds very strong(not LOUD!). I can definately
reccomend the mufflers to anyone!. Any suggestions as for transmision upgrades
and rear gear ratios?...I have a very stock Jet-Away with 3.23 gears...I can
hit 80mph before I change to second...and the switchpitch converter is giving
me headaches! Are there any relatively easy tranny swaps (th400, th350,
4L60,etc,etc)?thanks very much for the help ....Collyn Eastham...65"Pony
KILLER"(Cutlass 442)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 17:49:58 -0400
From: "Francomm" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Computer Chip.

<Q>

In an 86 Cutlass, I know the primary control functions. What after market
computer chips are available. Are they worth it? (307 - 200-4R) Anyone have
personal experience?

Gary

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 18:01:36 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <jlabay@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: 72 Cutlass guage swaps?

I am looking for some gauges to replace the boring 3 3/4" stock ones in my 72
Cutlass.  I am wondering if any other year/make/model cars gauges will fit.  I
have an 88 Trans Am in the salvage yard and by eyeballing it...looks like the 
TA
gauges may swap in....obviously with alot of cut/splice custom install.  I 
don't
want to buy new gauges from Summit since this is a project junkyard 72 Cutlass
racer.

Jason Labay  Akron, OH
87 Grand National...10.91 @ 122.59
80 442 W-30..for sale
75 Hurst Olds W-25...for sale
72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 15:13:36 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: EGR manifold question

I just got a EGR SB 4 barrel manifold at a bone yard.
under the primary holes , there are smaller holes about 3/8" diameter.
I couldn't tell if they were tapped of not (haven't degrimed the thing yet)
You can stick a screwdriver through them but they bount go through the bottom
fo the intake.

the casting #  is 411990 (i think that 3 is the casting #)

are they supossed to be there or did I waste $12.00 on a piece of junk?
I'm not used to the EGR era parts.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 18:16:11 -0400
From: "Gary J Couse" <gjcouse@mhonline.net>
Subject: RE: 82 GN's

<snip>

Olds Content: The Oldsmobile G bodies are a HELL of a lot better looking
than the Buick ones :-)

Yes, yes, yes. Exactly why I'm creating the Cutlass IROC-SS. Based on the
Olds G-Body, a visual/functional delight is soon to be seen. For those
following, "Quincy" finally comes home Friday night. A pro photo shoot is
planed for Saturday night (weather permitting). Hopefully I'll have
Digital's by mid next week.
Any takers for a shot on your web page? I'm sooo busy, I don't have the time
to pound out a dedicated site right now. (will do so once cold NY weather
kicks in). So, anyone want to help me get a Quincy page up? Only exterior
shots as of now. Though the styling may receive some stripping detail.
Actually, After a page is up I'll take suggestions as to detailing from all
on the list.  Personally, In it's present form, elegance may dictate the
exterior to remain as is. Except for a few choice flat black areas. I'll let
you all have at the thought process. Granted, I know many on the list are
cringing at a Cutlass IROC-SS. I ask you wait to see. I'm trying to create
an ongoing offering equaling the 442 + H/O. I know IROC swings thought to
ch*vy. I intend to change that. With 78-88 G-Body's so plentiful and wasting
away, I want to save them to a new world. One I hope you all find favorable.
At 60-75 units in 1999. That is if I get good reaction at the few preview
locations this fall the Cutlass IROC-SS will be pre-destined to collection.
Year 2000 may see 200 units. Prices aren't set yet but a base line model
will be attainable at reasonable cost.

Yesss, an Oldsing weekend...

- ----Regards,


Gary J. Couse

Couse Customs

gjcouse@mhonline.net <mailto:gjcouse@mhonline.net>

gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>

cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com <mailto:cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com>

 

"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 18:19:11 EDT
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: EGR manifold question

yep these holes are supposed to be here.

mikeytvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 18:19:03 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Olds Master Cylinder Pics

I have pics posted on a temporary "private" page on my website.  Only
accessed through this link below for the list members.  You can't get
there from the site's home page.  So you gotta click this link.  Cheesy
scanner, and pics posted from an old book, so bear with me.  It will be
taken down in a couple of days, so look now, or forever bleed your
brakes!

http://www.xtalwind.net/~hurstolds/rocket5.html

On there, you will find 2 pics of 69 H/O master cylinders, a 70 W-30
non-power master cylinder, and a Rallye 350 with power brakes.

And Greg Beaulieu is correct in that the 69 used single piston calipers,
but still used the "bellowed" out master cylinder.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 18:14:48 -0400
From: "VBDeveloper" <vbdeveloper@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Save My Fathers Oldsmobile

Yes it is my fathers Oldsmobile and I am trying to get him to keep it. It
is a great running car and should be kept. It needs weatherstripping, rear
bumper, remote drivers side mirror and various interior parts. My dad lives
in NYC and for some reason the parts for 86 Delta 88 are extremely hard to
get at the junkyards up there.I did think(for a moment) of shipping a
bumper to him from South Florida, which is where I am, but the cost of
shipping..... Thanks to all who have responded.

- ----------
> From: KarlAune@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Save My Fathers Oldsmobile
> Date: Tuesday, September 15, 1998 02:32 PM
>
> In a message dated 98-09-15 14:12:10 EDT, you write:
>
> << Sorry for the pun, none intended. It is my fathers Oldsmobile. And...
I am
> looking for weather-strip for '86 Delta 88. Would that be a dealer's item
or
> is aftermarket available?
>  Also, is anything  else available aftermarket? >>
>
> Uh, well you can try the Olds dealers.
>
> Or Softseal or Metro....
>
> Fusick's could have it, do not know of their catalogues for other
years/makes.
>
> IS the 86 your fathers? And what about it needs saving?
>
> Read the FAQ at 442.com anyway.
>
> SOM
> &KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 18:22:26 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: EGR manifold question

Those are for the hidden nitrous jets...Just a joke!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 16:57:30 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: TIMING LIGHTS

I have never adjusted the timing on a car before.  What can I say?  It
never came up.  At least I CAN say that I've never paid anyone to do it for
me, either.

Anyway, the timing on my Delta sucks, it almost stalls at almost every stop
I make.  So I guess I need to buy a timing light.

1.  Which brand should I get?  Which model?  Does it matter?  Does anybody
have a favorite?

2.  Like I said, I've never done this before.  My Dad & Grandfather are in
Houston, and I'm in Austin, so no help there...they've done it before, I
know, but it's not an "explain over the telephone thing".  Will the timing
light come with instructions?  Should I return to the impulse I had earlier
this summer and buy some shop manuals (Incidentally, to everyone who sent
me a reply with a lead, thank you very much; sorry I dropped the ball, I
had a lot going on)?  Do I need to check out/buy a book?  Should I just
trust one of my idiot friends who may/may not know what the hell he's
doing?  I'm sure it's hard to really screw it up, but still...

Please excuse my naivete (sp?)...I'm kind of embarrassed about this.  But
it's really not my fault.

TIA


- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons				 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 
3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722
								Home :	
(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile						(713) 776-2110 
(Houston)
 	 Delta 88				Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  
4-door								(713) 
318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 16:59:10 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: '69 Antennas

Can someone tell me (possibly again, sorry) why some '69 442s have the
antenna on the passenger's front fender, and some on the rear?
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons				 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 
3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722
								Home :	
(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile						(713) 776-2110 
(Houston)
 	 Delta 88				Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  
4-door								(713) 
318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 18:26:13 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: '69 Antennas

> Can someone tell me (possibly again, sorry) why some '69 442s have the
> antenna on the passenger's front fender, and some on the rear?

Fender mount: Manual

Rear mount: Power

That's the way it was in '69....

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 18:31:15 EDT
From: MrExMt@aol.com
Subject: Re: '69 Antennas

Brian,
The antenna on the front is a fixed unit & the one on the rear deck is a power
unit.
These can be a tough option to find. Good luck!
Leigh Tenenholtz
'68 Cutlass S Convert (with rear power antenna!)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 15:43:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: jalkara <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: Re:47 sub frame

i seem to have missed this subframe question.  could you email me
privately, i have a sub framed 47 and know of 2 others


47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 18:51:17 -0400
From: "Francomm" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Car for sale

In our local NY Want Ad digest is listed:

72 Cuttlass: 2dr, 350 4bbl, runs excel, body work 98% complete, in primer,
ready for paint, $995.00 (Schuylerville, NY) 518-695-6956.

It's among other 72 adds in the $3,500 range. Just thought that it might be
a find for a list member.

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse

Couse Customs

gjcouse@mhonline.net <mailto:gjcouse@mhonline.net>
gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>
cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com <mailto:cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com>

 
"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 18:11:30 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: '69 Antennas

What is involved in changing from a manual to a power?  Do you have to
replace the whole front fender?  Do you really have to drill the rear
antenna hole (you have NO idea how many times I just retyped that so it
wouldn't sound funny, i.e. "do you have to drill in the rear?", etc...)

At 06:31 PM 9/17/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Brian,
>The antenna on the front is a fixed unit & the one on the rear deck is a
power
>unit.
>These can be a tough option to find. Good luck!
>Leigh Tenenholtz
>'68 Cutlass S Convert (with rear power antenna!)
>
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons				 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 
3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722
								Home :	
(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile						(713) 776-2110 
(Houston)
 	 Delta 88				Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  
4-door								(713) 
318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 19:05:42 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Re: '69 Antennas

Guys put them on the rear cause they look cool.
Factory had them on the front fender.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 19:08:38 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: '69 Antennas

haha!....just put a power antenna in the front fender and drill 'er in the
front...LIKE A MAN!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 15:59:43 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: h*lp

Eckart, Douglas A. SFC wrote:

> I have a problem with excessive heat and low engine vaccumfor some time now
> and cannot find information to correct this problem.
> Here are the basics:  69 400 engine with 126K, re-ringed at 98K, and has a
> Isky 256 supercam, Q-Jet, stock manifolds, auto trans.
> I believe the heat and low vaccum are related.  My vaccum gage constantly
> reads 15'  no matter what I do, and continues with a rough idle.  Yesterday
> I installed a gm HEI from a 75 Toro with the Moroso advance kit, silver
> springs. I set the engine to TDC, and when I finally got the thing to run,
> the timing was so far advanced it was funny! (never had this happen before).
> Reset timing to 8 BTC @ 850 and vaccum still reads 15 or lower.  What gives?
> Printed info is limited as is competent help.  Thanks for your time. Doug.
>

 Doug,
Several things could be contributing to the low vacuum/run hot conditions
your 69 is experiencing.  Retarded ignition timing will result in low vacuum
and higher engine temperatures.  Not to mention poor performance and fuel
mileage.
You did not state the specs for the camshaft you are using.  Long duration cams
will have a longer overlap period which will result in lower vacuum and a
rougher idle.
Here's what I would suggest.  First, disregard initial timing specs as this
really
doesn't mean much.  The total timing is what you need to be concerned with.
Oldsmobiles respond best with approx. 36 degrees of total mechanical
advance in by 2000-2500 rpm.  Although your 10.5 compression ratio 400
may not allow this much advance without pinging.  But use 36 deg. as a
starting point.  To determine total mechanical advance, you'll need either
timing tape on the balancer, or one of those fancy timing lights with the
scale for reading advance.  Or you can just put a mark on the balancer
approx. 2" down from the stock mark (clockwise, as you are looking
at the engine).  This will show approx. 36 degrees (reading from the
zero mark on the tab).  With the vacuum advance disconnected, set
timing to 36 deg at 2500 rpm, go out and give the car a couple of full
throttle blasts.  If it pings, retard timing a few degrees, test again
until no more pinging is heard and leave the timing there (regardless
of what the initial timing is).  I'd be willing to bet you will have a
higher vacuum reading now.
As for why the HEI showed so much initial timing is because by
using the lightest springs, the weights are in effect at full centrifugal
advance at idle.  This really won't matter, as long as the car will still 
start.

If you do encounter hard starting, go with heavier springs rather than
retarding the timing.

Hope this helps.

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 19:11:21 -0400
From: "Gary J Couse" <gjcouse@mhonline.net>
Subject: RE: '69 Antennas

There isn't sufficient clearance in the front fender housing to house the
electric antennas. Hence that unit is installed in the rear. If you don't
have a current rear electric you'll need to cut the hole. You'll also need
to patch repair/re-paint the front fender antenna hole. You'll also need to
string the needed electrical/reception cables...

- ----Regards,


Gary J. Couse

Couse Customs

gjcouse@mhonline.net <mailto:gjcouse@mhonline.net>

gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>

cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com <mailto:cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com>

 

"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS









<>-----Original Message-----
<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Brian Ammons
<>Sent: Thursday, September 17, 1998 7:12 PM
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<>Subject: Re: '69 Antennas
<>
<>
<>What is involved in changing from a manual to a power?  Do you have to
<>replace the whole front fender?  Do you really have to drill the rear
<>antenna hole (you have NO idea how many times I just retyped that so it
<>wouldn't sound funny, i.e. "do you have to drill in the rear?", etc...)
<>
<>At 06:31 PM 9/17/98 -0400, you wrote:
<>>Brian,
<>>The antenna on the front is a fixed unit & the one on the rear deck is a
<>power
<>>unit.
<>>These can be a tough option to find. Good luck!
<>>Leigh Tenenholtz
<>>'68 Cutlass S Convert (with rear power antenna!)
<>>
<>-------------------------------------------------------------
<> Brian Ammons				 Universal Internet # (ICQ)
<>- 3585737
<> MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
<> 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
<> Austin, TX 78722
<>
<>Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
<> 1984 Oldsmobile
<>(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
<> 	 Delta 88				Pager:	(512) 
483-8056
<> 	  4-door
<>	(713) 318-5938
<>-------------------------------------------------------------
<>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 16:14:43 -0700
From: "WI02 Rutschmann Brandon M. AO2" <BRutschm@vinson.navy.mil>
Subject: RE: 72 Cutlass guage swaps?

I have a 71 olds cutlass with the same gauge panel as yours.  I know
you said that you don't want to buy new gauges but Auto Meter Procomp
unilite gauges fit in the gauge bezel holes and don't look bad at all.
 They give the dash a totally different look.

- -----Original Message-----
From:	Jason P. Labay [SMTP:jlabay@neo.lrun.com]
Sent:	Thursday, September 17, 1998 12:02 PM
To:	Oldsmobile Mailing List
Subject:	72 Cutlass guage swaps?

This message was sent using a character set not supported on the
Internet Mail Connector. The message text has been placed into the
attachment: ATT00134.txt. To view, double-click on the attachment. If
the text isn't displayed correctly, save the attachment to disk, and
then use a viewer that can display the original character set. <<
File: ATT00134.txt; charset = koi8-r >>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 19:21:28 EDT
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: olds engine in truck?

i was wanting some info on an oldsmobile engine in a chevy truck.  the truck
is a 68 c-10.  the engine of choice is a 403.  th-350, 3.73 rear.  are there
any major problems with this combo?  do i need to make any special exhaust
pieces to hook up the olds manifolds to a chevy duel exhaust system.  also, do
i need to make a shorter or longer drive shaft?  i think i will get a set of
cutlass frame mounts and weld them to the truck frame.  any info would e
greatly appriciated

mikeytvb@aol.com
68 c-10

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 18:23:52 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: still overheating

Ray,
not really, the thermostat, even open will still restrict the coolant flow,
allowing for more heat exchange, from engine and from the radiator. Can you
look at the core tubes, usually their partially blocked if there is a
problem with the radiator, should be able the see them thru the cap
opening. Could be ca ca in the radiator, is the water pump impeller
spinning ok?, I have seen them break loose from the drive rod, outside
everything looks good but inside impeller is free wheeling. Gee, hard call
without being there, wish we had a straight answer for you. Turning on the
heater should help but it is minimal at best. darn, spinning our wheels
here, anybody??
Lou Biggs

Ray wrote:
> Well, I put a thermostat, no change.  I guess that is to be expected,
> because if I run at 200 with no thermostat, it'll be the same with it,
> because the thermo will just stay open, essentially the same as not being
> here, right?  Damn it...
>
> NEW QUESTION,
> If I let the car sit and idle and peak out at the max temp it'll reach,
> about 210, and turn on the heater, the temp should drop correct?  And if
> it doesn't, which it didn't, what does that mean.  I think this somehow
> makes it more likely that the radiator is the limiting facto in my
> system.  The odd thing is, however, is that the radiator is the same one
> I;ve always had.  And I lived in Tucson, Arizona for a year and cruised
> around the CITY with the a/c on all the time, no problem.  Same in Las
> Vegas, Phoenix and LA.  But it is of course possible that the radiator
> worked properly then and is just beat now.  I think my best bet is to buy
> a NEW radiator.  agree?
>
> Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 19:23:08 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: '69 Antennas

> Guys put them on the rear cause they look cool.
> Factory had them on the front fender.

That was ONLY if you got the manual antenna.  If you got the power
antenna option, then the factory put them on the rear for you.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 16:31:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: 82 GN's

- ---Gary J Couse <gjcouse@mhonline.net> wrote:
 Any takers for a shot on your web page?

- ----I'll take whatever you got.....and anyone else out there without a
page....I got plenty of space.....~you~ put what ~you~ want
there...with in reason...like nothing out of line...but cars ....what
ever you want....
                   hit me direct if interested..
               Sman
==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 18:34:16 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Virus Warning Update

Not to worry!
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

- ----------
> From: C. Casteel <earthsci@pop.usit.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Virus Warning Update
> Date: Wednesday, September 16, 1998 10:07 PM
>
> Just don't send a virus ;-).
>
>
> >and it's not a nice feeling. I like this list and shall not send
ANYTHING
> >concerning a virus again. Bet your butt! To anyone who did NOT chew me
out,
> >thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 17:38:29 -0600
From: "Fred Orcutt" <f_m_o@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Another Overheating Question!

If you decide to try the 40-Below, you might want to go for 2 cans of it,
then add a minimal amount of anti-freeze (1 gal. max), the rest water.  This
should give you the max possible cooldown configuration.


- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris & Robin Miller <cya442@mindspring.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, September 16, 1998 8:11 PM
Subject: Re: Another Overheating Question!


>    That is what has me puzzled.  I just put this engine back together and
it
>has a clean 4-core radiator, new thermostat, good belt, etc.  I am going to
try
>the High Flow thermostat that everyone has been talking about and maybe the
>40-Below Anti-Freeze additive and see what happens.
>
>
>Chris Miller

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 19:49:12 -0400
From: "Gary J Couse" <gjcouse@mhonline.net>
Subject: RE: Another Overheating Question!

Excuse me... What is 40-below?

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse

Couse Customs

gjcouse@mhonline.net <mailto:gjcouse@mhonline.net>
gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>
cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com <mailto:cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com>

 
"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS









<>-----Original Message-----
<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Fred Orcutt
<>Sent: Thursday, September 17, 1998 7:38 PM
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<>Subject: Re: Another Overheating Question!
<>
<>
<>If you decide to try the 40-Below, you might want to go for 2 cans of it,
<>then add a minimal amount of anti-freeze (1 gal. max), the rest
<>water.  This
<>should give you the max possible cooldown configuration.
<>
<>
<>-----Original Message-----
<>From: Chris & Robin Miller <cya442@mindspring.com>
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
<>Date: Wednesday, September 16, 1998 8:11 PM
<>Subject: Re: Another Overheating Question!
<>
<>
<>>    That is what has me puzzled.  I just put this engine back
<>together and
<>it
<>>has a clean 4-core radiator, new thermostat, good belt, etc.  I
<>am going to
<>try
<>>the High Flow thermostat that everyone has been talking about
<>and maybe the
<>>40-Below Anti-Freeze additive and see what happens.
<>>
<>>
<>>Chris Miller
<>
<>
<>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 16:47:06 -0700
From: "WI02 Rutschmann Brandon M. AO2" <BRutschm@vinson.navy.mil>
Subject: Carb Problems

I have recently rebuilt my Rochester 4bbl carb.  I needed to do so
because it was leaking internally and externally and caught my engine
on fire, it was almost the loss of a great Oldsmobile.  My question
is:  After rebuilding the car will not idle smoothly.  I just did a
basic gasket/float replacement.  I tried to adjust the idle screws and
I just can't get it to idle correctly.  It sounds like it is too rich
and it smells of unburned fuel at the exhaust.  While rebuilding I
Cleaned the varnish off the primary needles with a scotch brite(r)
pad.  I believe this changed the jet setting to dump too much fuel in
my carb.  Before pulling off the carb I need some support.  It runs
flawlessly at all other Rpm's.  Thank you for your help.  Brandon

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 18:08:14 -0600
From: "Fred Orcutt" <f_m_o@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Another Overheating Question!

40-Below (P/N 4033) is a cooling system additive made by Pro-Blend Chemical
Co., out of Winston-Salem, NC (1-800-331-9520).  It sells for about $19.99
for a 30 oz. can, and claims that if used according to directions will
maintain a coolant operating temperature range of 180 - 210 under just about
any conditions (that's where the "40-Below" comes in).  My experience with
it has been good after fighting with a long-standing overheating situation
which lasted beyond a full system flush, new water pump, new stat, etc.  It
has no anti-freeze capability, so you still need to add your regular
antifreeze, although you want to keep it to a minimum.  I've got Pro-Blend's
factory tech phone number if anyone wants to holler at 'em direct.

By the way, their part nos. 8000 or 8012 are a crankcase oil additive that
they say reduces oil temp up to 57 degrees. Haven't tried that.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gary J Couse <gjcouse@mhonline.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, September 17, 1998 5:51 PM
Subject: RE: Another Overheating Question!


>Excuse me... What is 40-below?

>----Regards,


>Gary J. Couse

Couse Customs

gjcouse@mhonline.net <mailto:gjcouse@mhonline.net>
gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>
cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com <mailto:cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com>


"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS









<>-----Original Message-----
<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Fred Orcutt
<>Sent: Thursday, September 17, 1998 7:38 PM
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<>Subject: Re: Another Overheating Question!
<>
<>
<>If you decide to try the 40-Below, you might want to go for 2 cans of it,
<>then add a minimal amount of anti-freeze (1 gal. max), the rest
<>water.  This
<>should give you the max possible cooldown configuration.
<>
<>
<>-----Original Message-----
<>From: Chris & Robin Miller <cya442@mindspring.com>
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
<>Date: Wednesday, September 16, 1998 8:11 PM
<>Subject: Re: Another Overheating Question!
<>
<>
<>>    That is what has me puzzled.  I just put this engine back
<>together and
<>it
<>>has a clean 4-core radiator, new thermostat, good belt, etc.  I
<>am going to
<>try
<>>the High Flow thermostat that everyone has been talking about
<>and maybe the
<>>40-Below Anti-Freeze additive and see what happens.
<>>
<>>
<>>Chris Miller
<>
<>
<>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 21:10:18 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: EGR manifold question

The holes under the primaries are the EGR tubes that inject exhaust gas
back into the mixture via the EGR valve. Honestly don't know if having
them there would hurt anything if you blocked off the EGR mount.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 19:12:33 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Car/Parts 4 sale

Also have original am radio, dont remember if I still have knobs, may have
used them, radio was played about twice, dad didn't like radio's. Let me
know, I'll check
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 20:16:07 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Olds Master Cylinder Pics

Oooh...secret links!  I knew there was a reason I was a member of this
list...all the insider details!  :-)

Jason Adcock
E-mail: rocketolds@vt.edu
Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Rothe. <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, September 17, 1998 6:22 PM
Subject: Olds Master Cylinder Pics


>I have pics posted on a temporary "private" page on my website.  Only
>accessed through this link below for the list members.  You can't get
>there from the site's home page.  So you gotta click this link.  Cheesy
>scanner, and pics posted from an old book, so bear with me.  It will be
>taken down in a couple of days, so look now, or forever bleed your
>brakes!
>
>http://www.xtalwind.net/~hurstolds/rocket5.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 19:18:00 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: car prob?? was Re: Kane County, IL show & swap & car prob??

To Joe,
Had some cars stored, water reacted with the pot metal in the carb. and I
got the same thing you were talking about. Karl, this is your forte. Why
does water react with the metal and make it corrode and flake?
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 20:26:39 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: V8 Diesel 260CuInch (4.3l) olds engine

Tom Lentz wrote:
>
> I just gotta ask *WHY* anyone would want one of these?!?  I don't
> remember the specs, but they make something like 80hp.

Actually it was 90, which is the same as the Starfire 4 cylinder motor!

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 17:21:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: can't get into Rocket Talk

Hi gang,
         Anybody else having probs with RT?Goota have my Olds
fix.....help.......
                         John




==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 17:25:10 -0700
From: "WI02 Rutschmann Brandon M. AO2" <BRutschm@vinson.navy.mil>
Subject: Rochester disassembly

I have a 4bbl rochester and I would like to know if there is an easy
way to remove the choke horn linkage that goes down inside the
carbureator.  I have removed it once and it was almost impossible and
I almost broke the linkage.  I need to remove it so I can get to the
fuel bowl to change out the primary jets and metering rods.  Thank you
for your help Brandon

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 17:26:14 -0700
From: "WI02 Rutschmann Brandon M. AO2" <BRutschm@vinson.navy.mil>
Subject: Washington junk yards

I am looking for junk yards in the western Washington state area.  If
you can help I would greatly appreciate it.  Brandon

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 20:40:52 -0000
From: "Peter van der Wijngaard" <forwine@cgocable.net>
Subject: Cutlass Supreme 3.4 6 cyl.

Hi everyone,

I bought the O2 sensor which I want to replace, but with repair manual etc
in one hand I hev looked and looked and I cant find it can someone give me a
detailed description on how to replace it and where to find it.

Thanks a million.

Peter

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 17:37:59 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: EGR manifold question

At 06:22 PM 9/17/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Those are for the hidden nitrous jets...Just a joke!
>

No, nitrous jets only come on the ultra-rare
casting # 18436572 manifolds :)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 17:43:55 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: EGR manifold question

At 09:10 PM 9/17/98 -0300, you wrote:
>The holes under the primaries are the EGR tubes that inject exhaust gas
>back into the mixture via the EGR valve.

thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 17:53:24 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: TIMING LIGHTS

At 04:57 PM 9/17/98 -0500, you wrote:
>I have never adjusted the timing on a car before.  What can I say?  It
>never came up.  At least I CAN say that I've never paid anyone to do it for
>me, either.
>
>Anyway, the timing on my Delta sucks, it almost stalls at almost every stop
>I make.  So I guess I need to buy a timing light.
>
>1.  Which brand should I get?  Which model?  Does it matter?  Does anybody
>have a favorite?

I have a cheap "Sun-tune" one that came with a vacuum gauge and dwell meter.
I hade it for 3 years. its ugly , Really orange, and it allways works

>
>2.  Like I said, I've never done this before.  My Dad & Grandfather are in
>Houston, and I'm in Austin, so no help there...they've done it before, I
>know, but it's not an "explain over the telephone thing".  Will the timing
>light come with instructions?

ussually they do

 >Should I return to the impulse I had earlier
>this summer and buy some shop manuals

Yes, they are the best way to go, but at least get a Chilton or Motor
manual. Stay away from the Haynes manual, it is evil.



>Please excuse my naivete (sp?)...I'm kind of embarrassed about this.

no problem. Hey before i joined this list i had never swapped an engine. :)
this list does strange things to you if your not carefull.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 21:02:31 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Installing Drip Moldings

Chris Fair wrote:
>
> So we know from the note below that a drip molding
> installation tool exists. Anyone know what it's callled?
>
> Does Sears have 'em, Snap-On?, Mac? Where do I
> find it?
>
> cf

Well, the tool I was thinking of was called a "Vinyl Top Retainer
Installer", Kent Moore #J-22710.  "This tool will install the new metal
backed vinyl top retainer into the roof rail without damage to the
retainer or vinyl.  Nylon rollers roll the retainer into position as
shown in Fig. 24.  Price $10.75."  This is from the December '66 Olds
Service Guild issue.  I don't know if this tool serves the purpose you
want.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 19:12:14 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: 82 GN's

Hey.  I hate to admit this, but a Grand National is better looking than
any Cutlass I've ever seen.  Overall, I lke the Cutli more than the
Regal's which is why I decided, a few years ago, to get an Olds instead
of a Buick.  But I still think the best looking car ever made is a GN.


>
>Yes, yes, yes. Exactly why I'm creating the Cutlass IROC-SS. Based on
>the

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Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 21:06:22 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Installing Drip Moldings

Chris Fair wrote:
>
> So we know from the note below that a drip molding
> installation tool exists. Anyone know what it's callled?
>
> Does Sears have 'em, Snap-On?, Mac? Where do I
> find it?
>
> cf

According to my '72 body manual, these molding just snap over the metal
of the roof rail.  But thing's may have been different in '66.  I don't
have my '67 at home, or I'd check my moldings to see how things look.

Paul
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 20:59:39 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: car prob?? was Re: Kane County, IL show & swap & car prob??

Lou Biggs wrote:

> To Joe,
> Had some cars stored, water reacted with the pot metal in the carb. and I
> got the same thing you were talking about. Karl, this is your forte. Why
> does water react with the metal and make it corrode and flake?
> Lou Biggs
> lbiggs@intertek.net

  Actually, it's the oxygen that causes the flaking, hence, the term
oxydation.  It's similar to rusting.  The water just accelerates the process.
Remember high school chemistry class?  Oh well... By the way, carburetor
castings are made of zinc. I don't know if what is commonly referred to as
"pot metal" is the same as zinc, however.  In most carburetors, the air horn
and main body are zinc castings and the throttle bodies are aluminum.  A
notable exception to this is the Carter AFB, which is made entirely of
aluminum.  According to Muscle Car Review, the "AFB" actually means Aluminum
Four Barrel; not too exciting, huh?   As for coating the carb, which has been
kicked around on this thread, the gold-brown color of the zinc castings, is a
dichromate finish.  My understanding is that it is supposed to inhibit
casting oxydation.  Holley offers a re-dichromating service an any
carburetor.  Check out their website to read more about it.  Joe Padavano's
idea that newer fuels are part of the problem is backed up in another Muscle
Car Review (MCR) article a few issues back.  I recall a statement that
oxygenated fuels contributing to deterioration of older fuel systems.  I
assume this can include the carb.  Finally, the latest issue of MCR warns
that some carb cleaners, fuel additives, octane boosters and lead substitutes
can deteriorate paper fuel filters.

Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 18:07:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: TH-200 swap

>
> jhb wrote:
> >
> > I've got a 87 Cutlass Supreme Brhm with a TH-200 (not overdrive)
> > bolted to a 307. Working on a rebuild for the 307. Question is: the
> > Qlds FAQ mentions a TH200-4R to TH400 swap. How much different is
the
> > non-overdrive tranny from the OD?
>
> The overdrive tranny's rear mount is closer to the rear of the case
than
> the non-overdrive.  In fact, the distance between the rear mount and
the
> bellhousing is almost the same as the TH400.  I think the overdrive
and
> non-overdrive 200s are the same overall legnth.
>
>  Can the TH400 bolt into my car like
> > the swap notes for the 4R say? Or should I go for a 700-4R?
>
> Can't say exactly how the swap would go, but I'm guessing you'll
need to
> shorten the driveshaft and move the crossmember back.
> ---Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu> wrote:
> Unless you already have a TH400, need a transmission in your car, and
> don't have any money, using the TH400 is a relatively bad idea.
Unless
> you're looking to put in a 455 soon, the TH400 is overkill.  It's more
> transmission than an 87 cutlass with a 307 will ever need.  A TH350
> would be a much better choice;  It goes in with no modification, it's
> ~much~ lighter than a TH400, and will stand up to any abuse a 307 can
> dish out.


- ---don't forget the fact that the T-350 takes about 20 LESS hp to
run....with only decent mods the T-350 is a better tranny...I know
alot of folks stand bt their T-400's,and it is a good tranny,but I'd
rather have a T-350 any day....alot less headaches.
                           Sman
==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 21:54:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Nathyn M. Knipe" <nmknipe@mailbox.syr.edu>
Subject: Re: 82 GN's

oh yeah...i definately think the GN is the most attractive G-body...sorry
hard core cutlass fans.....maybe that is why i have grand national rims on
my cutlass and am thinking about putting the fender vents and a hood scoop
(plus they are cheaper) from a GN on my
car ....so go ahead everyone..start sending me hate mail....

On Thu, 17 Sep 1998, Ray Costanzo wrote:

> Hey.  I hate to admit this, but a Grand National is better looking than
> any Cutlass I've ever seen.  Overall, I lke the Cutli more than the
> Regal's which is why I decided, a few years ago, to get an Olds instead
> of a Buick.  But I still think the best looking car ever made is a GN.
>
>
> >
> >Yes, yes, yes. Exactly why I'm creating the Cutlass IROC-SS. Based on
> >the
>
> _____________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 21:53:05 EDT
From: MFATZII@aol.com
Subject: Re: 82 GN's

In a message dated 9/17/98 8:04:23 PM Central Daylight Time,
rocket409@juno.com writes:

<< Hey.  I hate to admit this, but a Grand National is better looking than
 any Cutlass I've ever seen. >>


mmm hmmmmm


I especially like the 'Jiffy lube' emblems on the seats and wheels of the
87...didn't they also come w/ heated trunk lids?  you know, so the hands don't
get cold when pushing in the winter......

Olds content.......reverse comment from rocket409 and say aloud.....

Ryan (MFatzII@aol.com)
Lincoln,   Nebraska  (Home of the Cornhuskers, too bad they suck !)
<<Turn it on, Wind it up, Blow it out, OLDS-MO-BILE>>

56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project Rocket)
<A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click here</A>
85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
89 Chevy Beretta CL


    888            888
  8      8       8       8
  8      8       8       8
    8  8           8   8         LIVES
  8      8       8       8
  8     8        8       8
    888            888





------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1491
*********************************
