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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1437


oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, August 19 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1437



Creative Olds Motor Input Needed
Olds Cutlass Supreme
Performer Heads for 455??
Re: opinion on headers
67 Cutlass convertible dash fire
Re: Performer Heads for 455??
'78 Cutlass
Woodward Dream Cruise
u joints
Re: SX start woes
Re: Olds Cutlass Supreme
1979 W30 H/O For Sale
Date:	Tue, 18 Aug 1998 23:19:21 -0500
Re: '78 Cutlass
Re: 66 olds tripower 4sale
Re: Olds Cutlass Supreme
Re: 67 Cutlass convertible dash fire
Re: 62 Jetfire info
Re: Tires
Re: color for 68 valve covers?
Re: 67 Cutlass convertible dash fire
Re: TH400 electric kickdown
Re: 67 Cutlass convertible dash fire
Re: Octane Question
307 to 71 350, or 72 455
Re: 67 Cutlass convertible dash fire
Odds and Ends, was: 307 to 71 350, or 72 455
Re: 67 Cutlass convertible dash fire
Re: Don't blame me...,and 442 parts needed
to anyone who can help
RE: Tongue twister (was: Don't blame me, I voted Republican)
RE: Don't blame me, I voted Republican
Re: Odds and Ends, was: 307 to 71 350, or 72 455
Re: Re: Performer Heads for 455??
Re: SX Start Woes
Re: UNBOUNCE: ISO '68 Delta Convert Weatherstrip
RE: TH400 electric kickdown
RE: Octane Question
RE: Tongue twister -- and Tongue twister ONLY
RE: 86 Salon 307 to 71 350...overheating !!!
RE: Tongue twister
Re: SPAM: RE: Don't blame me, I voted Republican
Re: SX Start Woes
Re: Tires
Re: UNBOUNCE: ISO '68 Delta Convert Weatherstrip
RE: TH400 electric kickdown
Re: opinion on headers
Re: Odds and Ends, was: 307 to 71 350, or 72 455
Re: SX start woes (Stop Re:'ing Don't blame me..<<yawn>>)
RE: TH400 electric kickdown

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 22:59:49 -0400
From: "Michael A. Evans" <evans1@net-link.net>
Subject: Creative Olds Motor Input Needed

As I've recently taken a new job with an automotive supplier, I now have
waycool access to having custom *if desired* stuff designed and built for
my 455, namely valvesprings and camshafts.  I'm intending to build a rather
singular-purpose bracket motor....probably 11:1 compression, ported G
heads, TH400, 4.10 gears in a '76 Cutlass chassis.  I currently am leaning
toward a roller cam setup, but, hey I can have whatever I spec.

Anyone have any ideas?
Mike Evans
Richland, MI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 22:54:58 -0000
From: "Peter van der Wijngaard" <simonp@cgocable.net>
Subject: Olds Cutlass Supreme

Hi All,

This is my first mail to this listing so I hope all goes well.
I service my car myself, its a Cutlass Supreme SL 3.4 V6 but I wondered if
there is a way to turn of the Service Engine Soon light????

Thanks

Peter

A linguistics professor was lecturing to his class one day.  "In English,"
he said, "A double negative forms a positive.  In some languages, though,
such as Russian,a double negative is still a negative.  However,there is no
language wherein a double positive can form a negative."  A voice from the
back of the room piped up, "Yeah, right."

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 20:04:44 PDT
From: "Justin Brickey" <cutlass260@hotmail.com>
Subject: Performer Heads for 455??

I went to the Edelbrock home page to look at goodies for my 455.  They
have Aluminum heads,#6051, but they say they work with the Torker intake
#2730. I was wondering, would these heads work with the regular
Performer intake, #2151, and the Cam Kit #2152? Has anyone done this?

Justin Brickey

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 20:39:13 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: opinion on headers

TOM HAIRE wrote:

>  Hello, I have a 1968 Olds 442 with the original 400ci engine.  I'm
> looking for a pair headers to put on it.  Do you any suggestions on
> which ones to get or which ones fit the best?

  Hello Tom,
I also have a 68 Olds 442 w/ 400. I have Headman headers on right now.
It was a very tight fit and unless you pull the heads or the whole
engine, you must remove the oil filter housing in order to put the
passenger side header on. Also, my biggest peave is the driver side
header has the very farthest bolt with only about an inch of room. I
have gotten scabs on my knuckles from trying to put that bolt in. The
first time I did it, it took me a total of 8 hours over 3 days to
finally get it. Now it takes me about an hour on that one bolt. I've
gotten good performance, but my suggestion is not to go with Headman
headers. They are poorly designed for our engines/cars.
Just my .02. I'll update you all shortly on my aluminum head ordeal...
still not running yet.

Ben
62 Olds f-85
http://www.primenet.com/~olds442/forsale.html
68 Olds 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 20:42:43 -0800
From: Todd Evans <evans@cts.com>
Subject: 67 Cutlass convertible dash fire

I just picked up a 67 Cutlass convertible today that suffered through a
dash fire.  I was planning on replacing the entire dash, as the face
(gauges, lighter, ignition switch) are burned or bubbled in spots.  It will
also make re-wiring everything under the dash easier.  Does anyone know if
the dash is unique to the convertible or can a coupe dash be used?  The
convertible top switch is located on the right side of the dash, but I
assume it could replace the open space in the same location on a coupe
dash.  I know some parts are exclusive to convertibles, such as my
windshield, which also needs replacing.  Any thoughts or parts leads on
this are appreciated.  Thanks.


Todd
tevans@infiniteweb.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 20:46:30 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Performer Heads for 455??

Justin Brickey wrote:

> I went to the Edelbrock home page to look at goodies for my 455.  They
> have Aluminum heads,#6051, but they say they work with the Torker intake
> #2730. I was wondering, would these heads work with the regular
> Performer intake, #2151, and the Cam Kit #2152? Has anyone done this?

Justin, I am probably the resident expert in this matter. I own one of 20
heads that shipped. My 9 month ordeal and 4 month delay from Edelbrock has
turned me supper sour for them. They also included very lame instructions
with no details as to the fact of what length pushrod to use and that my
roller tipped rockers must be replaced with larger and more expensive full
roller rockers! I asked the same Q to Edelbrock and yes, the performer 455
intake works. They are just trying to sell you on the big torker idea. Once
I get my roller rockers (hopefully tomorrow) I should be up and running with
my new Performer RPM heads and performer intake. Gonna be sweet. But if you
are thinking of purchasing the heads, you best order now. Only 20 of 150
were shipped and that means they are way behind on back orders. PLUS I
waited 9 months to recieve mine. I'm am almost positive  you will wait more
than a year to recieve yours. Oh, you can go through mondello for the heads
too, but they also try and sell you more parts that cost 500 bucks more.
It's best to go through a distributor and get them direct from Edelbrock and
if they don't give you the info you need on setting them up, just drop me a
line. I learned the hard way. Good luck

Ben
62 Olds f-85
http://www.primenet.com/~olds442/forsale.html
68 Olds 442 (still not running with alum heads... Damn that Edelbrock!)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 21:47:56 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: '78 Cutlass

Received this inquiry privately, reply to the author as outlined below:'


I have trouble finding information about '78 Cutlasses.
I'm in the process of restoring one, and building a web site dedicated
to
Cutlasses of that year. If you come across any info such web sites, etc.
about
restoration, parts, statistics, pictures, anything- I would greatly
appreciate it
if you can e-mail info to me. Thank you very much in advance.


- -Chris Berlin

e-mail address-  ccberlin33@hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 23:59:55 EDT
From: <Jon442@aol.com>
Subject: Woodward Dream Cruise

I had planned to go, but didn't. So, if anyone has information as to how many
people were there, how many cars, etc., and some pictures that I could use in
my newsletter, please email me privately. Or, if you feel like writing a
story, that would be great, too.

Thanks,

Jon

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 20:44:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: jalkara <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: u joints

replaced the u joints in the 47 98 today

let he who is without sin cast the first stone

47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 00:08:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: SX start woes

>> So it's not the battery or the cables; might it be the switch itself? Did
>> these change from '70 to '72, as I have a spare '72 column that I can
>> scavenge an extra off.
>
>If I remember correctly, you have the floor shift.  The neutral/start
>switch is all intregal on all the column shift jobbies for both years,
>but I believe your switch is different.  It WORKS the same, however you
>have the neutral/backup switch in the shifter console instead of on the
>column.  Not sure if you can use the 72 contacts or not.  Haven't ever

I'll have to check that out; I think the safety switch and ignition switch
are two completely separate items, so there's a chance.

>I DO know that there is an adjustment procedure for the starting switch,
>yours may be out of kilter just a bit.  Never hurts to check before
>disassembling everything.

What? You mean I have to read the manual? ;)

Thanks for that tip; I'll look into that. There was something funny about
the car when I started it in the morning; I dunno how to say it, but there
was a millisecond click or hesitation before the starter turned the engine
over. Maybe the contacts on the switch, or the rod going down to the switch
itself, is worn and in need of adjustment. It hasn't been touched in 28
years, so that's a possibility.

>Could your starter have "stuck"? It's happened to me, had to tap it with a
>hammer and it'd then turn over.

That could be. It's a 9-month old lifetime warrantee rebuilt starter, but
you can't always trust their quality. We'll even see if it happens again.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 20:51:40 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Cutlass Supreme

what year and check the ECM fuse it may be blown...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Peter van der Wijngaard <simonp@cgocable.net>
To: Olds Mailing List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, August 18, 1998 7:57 PM
Subject: Olds Cutlass Supreme


>Hi All,
>
>This is my first mail to this listing so I hope all goes well.
>I service my car myself, its a Cutlass Supreme SL 3.4 V6 but I wondered if
>there is a way to turn of the Service Engine Soon light????
>
>Thanks
>
>Peter
>
>A linguistics professor was lecturing to his class one day.  "In English,"
>he said, "A double negative forms a positive.  In some languages, though,
>such as Russian,a double negative is still a negative.  However,there is no
>language wherein a double positive can form a negative."  A voice from the
>back of the room piped up, "Yeah, right."
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 23:14:06 -0500
From: Tom Williams <tjwilli@megavision.com>
Subject: 1979 W30 H/O For Sale

HI All,
   I had to go on a little business trip today about 80 miles from home
and decided in the late afternoon to call a gentleman who had a 70
Cutlass Supreme triple black car for sale and a 79 W-30 H/O. I bought
the 70 and would to have liked to by the 79 but I do not have the room.
Both of these cars are restorable cars. The 79 W-30 H/O is in fairly
decent shape, it had the black and gold paint combo, gold interior,
t-tops in excellent shape, all the guages, power steering, locks,
windows, bucket seats, and console.
 The car has been sitting for several years and had a tree limb fall on
the top of the car behind the drivers side t-top, but was not badly
damaged. The car does have some rust that would need to be repaired. The
79 also shows 56,000 actual miles on the odometer. I do not have any
intrest in the car, I will not gain anything from the car
ect...ect...ect...
The asking price is $500.00 OBO
If anyone had any intrest in this car e-mail me at
tjwilli@megavision.com I will explain more on the car.
I would not have purchased the 70 CS for restore except that it was
triple black (I like these cars) had a perfect set of 70 sport mirriors
on the car, he is throwing in a set of NOS front grills, the car also
had 4 SSI's with nice center caps, and when we looked in the trunk there
was 2 more SSI's, and the car is very restorable, all this for $350.00
not a bad day after all.

Thanks,
Tom

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 23:19:21 -0500
From: "Joe Hicks" <joehicks@junct.com>
Subject: Date:	Tue, 18 Aug 1998 23:19:21 -0500

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Would like to know availibity and price for a fiberglass front clip for =
a 75 olds delta 88 royale convertible .   Thanks

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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Would like to know availibity and =
price for a=20
fiberglass front clip for a 75 olds delta 88 royale convertible =
.&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
Thanks</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDCAFE.A189ABA0--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 21:28:16 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: '78 Cutlass

At 09:47 PM 8/18/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Received this inquiry privately, reply to the author as outlined below:'
>
>
>I have trouble finding information about '78 Cutlasses.
>I'm in the process of restoring one, and building a web site dedicated
>to
>Cutlasses of that year. If you come across any info such web sites, etc.
>about
>restoration, parts, statistics, pictures, anything- I would greatly
>appreciate it.

Most parts are still just regular "get it at the parts store" stuff.
I have a 78 cutlass salon 260 cid

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 00:31:50 -0400
From: Bill & Beth <dickinson@skow.net>
Subject: Re: 66 olds tripower 4sale

How about $500.00

oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:

> make me an offer, i have carbs aircleaners etc. was on my 74 455 about 4 
years
> ago.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 21:33:44 -0700
From: "Kaye K" <lkgk@anv.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Cutlass Supreme

Peter,

Have you ruled out all emissions-related mechanical reasons why your light
would be staying on?

If not, check your O2 sensor.  It may need to be replaced.

Kaye K
86 442
http://coyote.accessnv.com/lkgk

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 21:59:19 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass convertible dash fire

Todd Evans wrote:

> I just picked up a 67 Cutlass convertible today that suffered through a
> dash fire.  I was planning on replacing the entire dash, as the face
> (gauges, lighter, ignition switch) are burned or bubbled in spots.  It will
> also make re-wiring everything under the dash easier.  Does anyone know if
> the dash is unique to the convertible or can a coupe dash be used?  The
> convertible top switch is located on the right side of the dash, but I
> assume it could replace the open space in the same location on a coupe
> dash.  I know some parts are exclusive to convertibles, such as my
> windshield, which also needs replacing.  Any thoughts or parts leads on
> this are appreciated.  Thanks.
>
>


Todd,
The 67 Cutlass hardtop and convertible dashboards/pads will interchange. Your
assumption is correct regarding the top switch.  The dash board has provisions
on the back for accommodating the power top and/or power antenna switch(s).
You'll just need to open the hole(s) if it has not already been done on the
donor dash.  Jim Chermack should be able to help with the parts you list.

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
Portland, Oregon   503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 01:14:11 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 62 Jetfire info

Today I spotted a '62 jetfire for sale only 1/4 mile from home....How
available are Turbo
parts???  This one has the turbo removed and has only a carb.  Not sure if
it
was a 2bbl or 4 bbl.
______________

As you might have guessed, turbo parts and the dedicated sidedraft
Rochester carb are almost impossible to find without a car attached.  I've
seen a few advertised in Hemmings over the last ten years, but not more
than a few (say 3-5).  Note that the carb is actually very similar to the
one used on the Turbo Corvair.

The Jetfire engine used a unique concept to minimize boost lag which was
also it's downfall.  Basically, Olds attempted to increase low-end torque
(a comodity foreign to most turbo motors) by increasing the compression on
the Jetfire to something like 10.25:1.  As you might imagine, high
compression does not mix well with a turbo or supercharger, resulting in
the need ot limit boost to 5 psi with a wastegate. Despite this limit, the
engine was still prone to knocking due to the high cylinder pressures, so
Olds added fluid injection to combat the detonation.  This "Turbo Rocket
Fluid" was a water/alcohol mix which was injected into the intake tract
when the boost reached a certain level.  Unfortunately, many owners let the
fluid run dry and then proceeded to destroy their motors (keep in mind that
this was over a decade before Buick incorporated a knock sensor on its
turbo V-6 motors).  Typically when the motor was rebuilt, the complex turbo
setup was trashed in favor of a normal carb setup.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 00:38:22 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Tires

     Joe, have you thought about P245/60R15s on the front and
P275/60R15s on the back, all on 15x7 SSIIs? I've seen this exact combo
on a 72 W30 and it looked great!
______________

I'll bet they did.  I had the 275s on the rear of the 71 that the ex had
and they looked great.

==============

     Another combo that looked good was P255/60R15s all the way around
on a 71 442 convertible. Of course the 70-72 HTs have the same size
wheelwells as the convertibles as you well know :)
______________

Yep. This is what I have on the 69 H/O.

==============

     Had to pipe in with a last comment. For years I ran early bolt-on
cap 14x7 SSIIs on the front and late snap-on cap 15X7 SSIIs on the
back....NOBODY noticed the difference in the caps! "Run whatca brung" :)
______________

Sorry, but I'm somewhat anal about this.  Maybe it's because I'm sensitive
to the difference, or maybe it's a snob thing because the snap-in wheels
are so much more common, but to me, snap-in wheels on a 72-earlier car
stand out like a sore thumb.  (Yes, I know, I'm being rediculous about
this)

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 00:41:28 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: color for 68 valve covers?

My 67 442 engine was and is all gold as Joe says'
Lou Biggs
__________

Uh, actually Lou, if your 67 442 has the original 400, it should be bronze.
Only small blocks (330 and 350) were gold.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 01:04:39 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass convertible dash fire

I just picked up a 67 Cutlass convertible today that suffered through a
dash fire.  I was planning on replacing the entire dash, as the face
(gauges, lighter, ignition switch) are burned or bubbled in spots.  It will
also make re-wiring everything under the dash easier.  Does anyone know if
the dash is unique to the convertible or can a coupe dash be used?  The
convertible top switch is located on the right side of the dash, but I
assume it could replace the open space in the same location on a coupe
dash.  I know some parts are exclusive to convertibles, such as my
windshield, which also needs replacing.  Any thoughts or parts leads on
this are appreciated.  Thanks.


Todd
tevans@infiniteweb.com
____________

Todd,

You are correct in assuming that the dashes are the same.  The square
Cutlass emblem plate on the dash actually hides the hole for the top switch
and power antenna switch.  The plate actually has three possible positions.
Furthest left covers both switch locations.  One position to the right
provides room for one switch, while furthest right allows both switches to
be mounted.  If you look at the backside of the plastic part of the dash,
you'll see the indentations for the pins on this emblem plate in each of
the three locations.  You may need to drill out the ones you need to mount
the top switch.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 01:18:17 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: TH400 electric kickdown

On the electric kickdown switch that is by the gas pedal were does the pink
wire go?  I know the orange one goes to the tranny.  I assume that the pink
one goes to a power source somewere.

Keith 70 442
_________

Yep.  It goes to the GAUGES-TRANS fuse, a 10A fuse on the lower right
corner of your fuse box.  This circuit is switched on with the ignition
switch in the RUN postition.  The same fuse also feeds the gauges and idiot
lights.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 00:51:13 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass convertible dash fire

What caused the dash to catch on fire in the first place?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass convertible dash fire
> Date: Wednesday, August 19, 1998 12:04 AM
>
> I just picked up a 67 Cutlass convertible today that suffered through a
> dash fire.  I was planning on replacing the entire dash, as the face
> (gauges, lighter, ignition switch) are burned or bubbled in spots.  It
will
> also make re-wiring everything under the dash easier.  Does anyone know
if
> the dash is unique to the convertible or can a coupe dash be used?  The
> convertible top switch is located on the right side of the dash, but I
> assume it could replace the open space in the same location on a coupe
> dash.  I know some parts are exclusive to convertibles, such as my
> windshield, which also needs replacing.  Any thoughts or parts leads on
> this are appreciated.  Thanks.
>
>
> Todd
> tevans@infiniteweb.com
> ____________
>
> Todd,
>
> You are correct in assuming that the dashes are the same.  The square
> Cutlass emblem plate on the dash actually hides the hole for the top
switch
> and power antenna switch.  The plate actually has three possible
positions.
> Furthest left covers both switch locations.  One position to the right
> provides room for one switch, while furthest right allows both switches
to
> be mounted.  If you look at the backside of the plastic part of the dash,
> you'll see the indentations for the pins on this emblem plate in each of
> the three locations.  You may need to drill out the ones you need to
mount
> the top switch.
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 70 W-30
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 08:01:09 +0300
From: Jukka.Kujala@outokumpu.com
Subject: Re: Octane Question

Suprised about your  octane levels. We have 95E, 98 & 99 octanes here in
Finland.

Jukka

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 02:53:26 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: 307 to 71 350, or 72 455

RCKTPWR@aol.com wrote:
>
> Anyone have problems when you went from a 307 to a 350??

If I may, anyone had any problems with an 87 Cutlass that WAS a 307, and
is now a 455?

Got an AWESOME deal on a '72 Block, will need a little honing, but still
workable, guy is selling me the block with the crank, no internals for
$75, used to be his drag motor...  Then he's got Mondello's 9.0:1 I
think pistons, already attached to connecting rods..  280, forgot the
next number cam, Dual Plane Aluminum Manifold, and a set of ported,
polished, blueprinted C heads currently pushing 5,000 miles (Just got
Mondello's Aluminum Heads in), all I gotta get is the other stuff on my
own!!!

FINALLY an 87 F-442 with BALLS
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 00:08:36 -0800
From: Todd Evans <evans@cts.com>
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass convertible dash fire

>What caused the dash to catch on fire in the first place?
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>


I'm not sure.  I bought the car from a girl after the fire.  It'll be an
excellent project car, though.  Super nice, no rust, no bondo (or very
little) West Coast body, newer white top, rebuilt non-original 350,
automatic, very nice interior (except for the burnt front carpeting), like
new floors, frame (if you're familiar with these cars you'll realize how
rare a clean frame can be), and trunk (still has original splatter paint
finish), complete set of SSI's w/ new tires, 12 bolt rearend, duals, etc.
It's always been a California car.  It'll take some work, but I couldn't
pass on it, especially since I got it for $700.  On top of that, my first
car was a light blue (same as this one used to be, it's currently primered)
1967 Cutlass convertible.  How cool is that?

Todd
tevans@infiniteweb.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 01:13:20 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Odds and Ends, was: 307 to 71 350, or 72 455

> If I may, anyone had any problems with an 87 Cutlass that WAS a 307, and
> is now a 455?

Uhh...  Traction?  (o) (o)
		      )
		   (___^_)
		       U
(Hope that comes through in all fonts y'all use...)

Although I took the Rockit out today, (with smokey the 425...) with intents of
getting a smokeshow shot for John's burnout page...  Went to load camera...
Won't load.  Crap.  Looks like I need a new camera...  Oh well...  Took a 
couple
cruises anyway...  Got to the highway.  Won't do a burnout on the chipseal
stuff.  Slick pavement, she'll squeal like a stuck pig.  On the highway, all I
get is launch.  Bummer...  Not that ~that's~ a problem, but...  I guess I'll
have to get the burnout shots later, on concrete somewhere (heh heh...)
Patience, John... :)  Took the GS out for a bit, too (had something to do with 
a
cop's dirty look when he saw me taking off from a stopsign...  Good thing he 
was
pre-occupied ;)  Didn't take the GS to the highway, but I feel safe it'd have 
no
troubles making some smoke, should I decide to try...  Can't hook up anywhere
else with those tires, so I might as well have a ~little~ fun, right???

More fun?  Well, got my bellhousing today...  Now I just need the 4 speed to go
with it :)  And driveshaft...  Anyone here done a G-body stick yet???  Need to
find me a Firebird pedal setup and see if I can stick that in...  Hell, who am 
I
kidding....  I need a motor first ;)  All too amusing (and disheartenning) to
me, the pics of my donor Toro show the car at it's origin (in a field) and then
on my trailer at my house, and then with front clip off...  All dates marked on
pics show within two days...  No progress since that point...  Too damn hot
usually.  Depressing.  Oh well.  Still a couple months of snowless weather,
hopefully.  With any luck, I'll get a chance to finish that project by
snowfall...  Hopefully :(

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 02:34:56 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass convertible dash fire

I know what you mean..Olds is in the blood....Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Todd Evans <evans@cts.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass convertible dash fire
> Date: Wednesday, August 19, 1998 3:08 AM
>
> >What caused the dash to catch on fire in the first place?
> >Pettrix@prodigy.net
> >
>
>
> I'm not sure.  I bought the car from a girl after the fire.  It'll be an
> excellent project car, though.  Super nice, no rust, no bondo (or very
> little) West Coast body, newer white top, rebuilt non-original 350,
> automatic, very nice interior (except for the burnt front carpeting),
like
> new floors, frame (if you're familiar with these cars you'll realize how
> rare a clean frame can be), and trunk (still has original splatter paint
> finish), complete set of SSI's w/ new tires, 12 bolt rearend, duals, etc.
> It's always been a California car.  It'll take some work, but I couldn't
> pass on it, especially since I got it for $700.  On top of that, my first
> car was a light blue (same as this one used to be, it's currently
primered)
> 1967 Cutlass convertible.  How cool is that?
>
> Todd
> tevans@infiniteweb.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 04:12:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Don't blame me...,and 442 parts needed

  Hey Chris,

     Are the fenders on your 70 w31 ok?  I may be interested in one or
both of them if the're not rusted.  Hit me back direct.
sgadecki@yahoo.com

THanks,
   Stefan
   sgadecki@yahoo.com
   1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 07:23:35 EDT
From: <WOODY3781@aol.com>
Subject: to anyone who can help

  I have a 1970 Cutlass 4 door. removed chrome strip on driver rear between
wheel well and bumper for minor body repair. did not want to leave it in car
for fear of
placing something on it and bending it. put it in a "safe" place in the
basement instead. now it can't be found. was up till 2AM flinging around
bicycles, games,
christmas ornaments, winter clothes and other unimportant stuff. I have a show
on Aug. 30 I'd like to put the car in but I need help in finding my "lost"
chrome strip.
I have a contact out west but I can't wait until noon EDT. and if he don't
have it then
no show and the repurcussions at my house will be severe. So, forgive the
rambling, I've been up all night. thanks in advance.

wood
70 cutlass(aug.30 hopefull)
73 delta convertible(aug.30 definite)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 07:38:05 -0500
From: IMCEAEX-_O=MCCO_OU=MORGAN_CN=RECIPIENTS_CN=M947AIM@morganco.com
Subject: RE: Tongue twister (was: Don't blame me, I voted Republican)

Hi Joe,

Gee I was hoping nobody would notice....
I've been looking into this for quite a while.
Here at work, there's a "firewall"(?) that
makes it difficult for people to e-mail me etc.
It also decides to label me with this wierd
heirogliphic thing. Oh well. *sigh*.

Mr. IMCEAEX........

> ----------
> From: 	Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM[SMTP:Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Tuesday, August 18, 1998 4:01 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Tongue twister (was: Don't blame me, I voted Republican)
>
> IMCEAEX-_O=MCCO_OU=MORGAN_CN=RECIPIENTS_CN=M947AIM@morganco.com
>
> > Jeff Cote
> _____________
>
> Not to get drawn into this off-topic stuff (Greg, you off on a trip or
> something), but Jeff definitely wins the award for the most unwieldy email
> address in history.
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 70 W-30
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 07:50:54 -0500
From: IMCEAEX-_O=MCCO_OU=MORGAN_CN=RECIPIENTS_CN=M947AIM@morganco.com
Subject: RE: Don't blame me, I voted Republican

Wowee. I'm not sure I understand your opinion on this topic. Could
you elaborate? :)
I'm just gonna make one more comment and then I'll shut up (no
applause please). Perjury can only be decided by wasting more
of the taxpayers' money on a hearing to figure out if the comments
he originally made weren't vague and obtuse enough. This is not
to say I dont agree or disagree with impeachment.

Off the perjury, for a moment, I'm just wondering how many people
actually realize that other Presidents have behaved in this immoral way,
and just haven't been pushed up against a wall like this. (ref. Kennedy).

- --Jeff

> ----------
> From: 	Kevin Hoopingarner[SMTP:khooping@bright.net]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Tuesday, August 18, 1998 3:50 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: Don't blame me, I voted Republican
>
> Some of you guys are missing the point - he perjured himself. Filthy,
> dirty, beanhead, selfish, slutty, rotten sex with Monica is beside the
> issue that on top of everything else he's a bloody liar! He's a low-life
> piece of crap and I'm so not proud to say he's my president. He makes me
> sick and I can only take heart in the knowledge that God will take care of
> his sorry, no good, no restraint, fat butt.
>
> I feel sorry for Chelsea and all our future children who will be led
> astray by our models in the whitehouse. Willy says, let's put this behind
> us. Unfortunately, he's done unprecedented amounts of damage and he's
> leaving a trail of filth everywhere he goes. We can't put it behind us, we
> haven't been given a choice.
>
> God Bless America and Pray Hard
>
> P.S. I don't normally read the Olds stuff because it's my husband's - but
> I couldn't help it when I saw the messages. Sorry Honey!
>
> Olds' Wife
>
> IMCEAEX-_O=MCCO_OU=MORGAN_CN=RECIPIENTS_CN=M947AIM@morganco.com wrote:
>
> 	I've been under the impression that adultery is grounds for
> 	a divorce but not illegal as long as it is between consenting
> 	adults of age and there is no monetary compensation involved!
> 	<insert Olds-related comment here>
>
> 	Jeff Cote
>
> 	> ----------
> 	> From:         JCRASH7@aol.com[SMTP:JCRASH7@aol.com]
> 	> Reply To:     oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> 	> Sent:         Monday, August 17, 1998 11:06 PM
> 	> To:   oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> 	> Subject:      Re: Don't blame me, I voted Republican
> 	>
> 	> Sorry, but I have to get into this...  Ok, he is the president, so
> we have
> 	> to
> 	> make a big deal about under penalty of law (yeah right), but was
> really
> 	> was
> 	> the actual crime committed?  You can't go to jail for bangin' a
> tramp, so
> 	> it's
> 	> just that he's the pres, right?
> 	>
> 	> Joe
> 	>
>
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 07:57:15 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: Odds and Ends, was: 307 to 71 350, or 72 455

Oldsmagnet wrote:
>
> > If I may, anyone had any problems with an 87 Cutlass that WAS a 307, and
> > is now a 455?
>
> Uhh...  Traction?

I think my traction problem will be less of an issue until I replace the
rear.  Now at the track, that's gonna be a different issue. :(  Seeing
as this 455 is a retired drag motor, and all the pieces were in it at
one time or another.  But I think 2.14 will be o k  for a little while.

- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 08:00:47 EDT
From: <SOMMERVLLE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Performer Heads for 455??

Ben, how much were the heads through a distributor? Cheaper than Mondello's?
Just curious am thinking of ordering a set before i leave for Korea (I'm in
the Army) and will have them when I get back after a year tour. Just the
1500-1600 price tag is high on our sallery and always looking for a deal.
Thanks

Chris Sommerville
69 442 SC
69C/S parts car
70 W31 DEAD
70 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 08:30:42 EDT
From: <BigEJ@aol.com>
Subject: Re: SX Start Woes

>The SX didn't want to start today after work. I went out, turned the key,
>and not even a click; warning lights went out and didn't come back on. (huh?)

>I checked the battery connections (tight as could be, and the battery itself
>is pretty new), tried in both Park and Neutral (thought the new
>neutral-safety switch might be misadjusted; made no difference), turned the
>key to on, made sure the idiot lights were lit, turned the key, and "vroom"
>it started without hesitation.
Dr. Bob:

The key here is the fact the warning lights went out.  Has to be a main feed
failure!  Most commonly battery connections, but don't forget the other end of
the battery cables.  Another clue is the fact that after checking (by tugging
on the wires, I'll bet) the car started.

Dissassemble the battery connections and make sure there is no corrosion
between the surfaces, and that the side mount bolts are not bottomed or cross-
threaded.  If alls well there, then go to the other end of the wires, and
assuming that the wire ends are decent, your troubles should be there.

Hope this helps.

Elephant Engine Ernie
aka Ernie Johnson

67 442
50 88


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 08:34:28 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: ISO '68 Delta Convert Weatherstrip

In a message dated 98-08-18 22:37:31 EDT, you write:

<< I'm presently restoring my Delta 88 convertable and I am having trouble
 find weather stripping for the windows and doors. Can anyone help?
 Is there a  catalog for such parts?
  >>

Mark,

Try Steete or Softseal, but let me warn you they're not cheap. For five pieces
they want $250! I know because I've been looking for my mine. Unfortunately, I
don't know of any alternative.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 Conv.828

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 07:45:39 -0500
From: "Kijowski, Stan" <SKIJOWSKI@midland.com>
Subject: RE: TH400 electric kickdown

hi joe, hope you are doing well.
this thread has me confused. a little while back, there was some discussion
about this. i was under the assumption from previous discussion that the
pink/orange wire connector as described below was already hooked up to power
and left dead ended (not hooked up if not needed...ie as in the case of a
350/350 setup). i believe that you told me there was a black wire in the
loom with a connector that was used for the backup lights (or something like
that) on a 350/350 setup that could be used on the kickdown switch. i found
a black wire in the wiring loom that had the starter solenoid wires (white &
purple wires) in it. hooked it up but have not had a chance to try it and
see if it works. this was activity was based on that previous thread. this
latest thread has led me to believe that i did this wrong.
question#1:  if the orange wire from this connector does go to the tranny,
where do you pick it up in the wiring loom?

question#2: i know this has been addressed before but i am a simple minded
mechanic and need specific information to get something done. could you hook
the electric choke on this gauge-trans 10 amp fuse/circuit you mention
below.


> ----------
> From: 	Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM[SMTP:Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Wednesday, August 19, 1998 12:18 AM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: TH400 electric kickdown
>
> On the electric kickdown switch that is by the gas pedal were does the
> pink
> wire go?  I know the orange one goes to the tranny.  I assume that the
> pink
> one goes to a power source somewere.
>
> Keith 70 442
> _________
>
> Yep.  It goes to the GAUGES-TRANS fuse, a 10A fuse on the lower right
> corner of your fuse box.  This circuit is switched on with the ignition
> switch in the RUN postition.  The same fuse also feeds the gauges and
> idiot
> lights.
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 70 W-30
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 07:50:00 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: Octane Question

In Finland?  Are we World Wide?

WoW!
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
17 Wins 11 Losses
======================


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Jukka.Kujala@outokumpu.com 
[SMTP:Jukka.Kujala@outokumpu.com]
	Sent:	Wednesday, August 19, 1998 12:01 AM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	Re: Octane Question


	Suprised about your  octane levels. We have 95E, 98 & 99 octanes
here in
	Finland.

	Jukka
	

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 09:27:32 -0400
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: RE: Tongue twister -- and Tongue twister ONLY

From IMCEAEX... You know (sorta) the rest:
> Hi Joe,
>
> Gee I was hoping nobody would notice....
> I've been looking into this for quite a while.
> Here at work, there's a "firewall"(?) that
> makes it difficult for people to e-mail me etc.
> It also decides to label me with this wierd
> heirogliphic thing. Oh well. *sigh*.
>
> Mr. IMCEAEX........

That's OK, Jeff.  Just tell everyone you're the cousin of that
nemesis of Superman's from the Twelfth Dimension, Mr. Mxplklplx.



Tim (T-Minus 2 Days and Counting Until Vacation) Churchill
           OCA #30327           Framingham, MA
- ------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 09:40:42 -0400
From: "Weaver, Stanleigh G" <Stanleigh.Weaver@PHL.Boeing.com>
Subject: RE: 86 Salon 307 to 71 350...overheating !!!

Bernie,
I had similar problems with my 307 overheating within 15 to 30 minutes
of starting the engine. After I replaced two lifetime guarantee
waterpumps and changed every part of the cooling system Except the
radiator, I found that the radiator was the culprit. When I removed the
Radiator cap and started the car I noticed that the radiator was flowing
very poorly. The majority of the radiator tubes were blocked with
corrosion and the radiator was acting as a bottle-neck in the cooling
system an pressure build-up resulted in blown waterpumps. I purchased a
Modine factory replacement radiator (2-core) for $180.00. It fit
perfectly and I have not had ANY overheating problems since.
        Stan Weaver



> ----------
> From: 	RCKTPWR@aol.com[SMTP:RCKTPWR@aol.com]
> Sent: 	Tuesday, August 18, 1998 10:27 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	86 Salon 307 to 71 350...overheating !!!
>
> Anyone have problems when you went from a 307 to a 350??
>
> Water pump is good.  Radiator cap is good.  Thermostat is good.  No
> leaks.  No
> air in system.
>
> Overheats anywhere from 15 min to 1/2 hour.  Radiator is stock.   Car
> originally was 307 4bl, 4spd auto.  Replaced w/"tweaked" 71 350, which
> was
> rebuilt.
>
> Any suggestions?  Possible that radiator is to small?   No debris in
> front air
> intake area.   TIA
>
> Bernie
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 09:38:27 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: RE: Tongue twister

Hi Joe,

Gee I was hoping nobody would notice....
I've been looking into this for quite a while.
Here at work, there's a "firewall"(?) that
makes it difficult for people to e-mail me etc.
It also decides to label me with this wierd
heirogliphic thing. Oh well. *sigh*.

Mr. IMCEAEX........
____________

Sorry to post this on the list (see above), but Jeff, please try to email
me direct.  I tried to email you privately and natually Lotus Notes threw
up.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 10:00:43 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: SPAM: RE: Don't blame me, I voted Republican

Agreed with all the comments re Clinton.  Our Pres has perpetrated a massive
fraud on the American people for 7 months.  And he has the gall to blame
Starr for delays and cost???

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 10:00:42 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: SX Start Woes

>>The SX didn't want to start today after work. I went out, turned the key,
>>and not even a click; warning lights went out and didn't come back on.
(huh?)
>
<<snipp>>
>Dr. Bob:
>
>The key here is the fact the warning lights went out.  Has to be a main
feed
>failure!  Most commonly battery connections, but don't forget the other end
of
>the battery cables.

I agree with that 100%. But the lights are also fed through the ign switch,
so it could be there too.

>Another clue is the fact that after checking (by tugging
>on the wires, I'll bet) the car started.
>
I was gonna say that. Didja yank the battery cables to see that they were
tight, Doc? Maybe by doing that you made a better connection without even
realizing it. Clean the bat terminals and the ground lug on the block before
diving into the console electrics. Might save yerself some grief.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 10:21:08 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Tires

According to most manufacturers of tires (all, as far as I know), 255 is the
widest tire that can "safely" be mounted on a 7" rim. I have 255's on my
SSIII and the sidewall is rolled in as much as I would want it to.



>
>     Joe, have you thought about P245/60R15s on the front and
>P275/60R15s on the back, all on 15x7 SSIIs? I've seen this exact combo
>on a 72 W30 and it looked great!
>     Another combo that looked good was P255/60R15s all the way around
>on a 71 442 convertible. Of course the 70-72 HTs have the same size
>wheelwells as the convertibles as you well know :)
>     Had to pipe in with a last comment. For years I ran early bolt-on
>cap 14x7 SSIIs on the front and late snap-on cap 15X7 SSIIs on the
>back....NOBODY noticed the difference in the caps! "Run whatca brung" :)
>
>
>==
>"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"
>
>John Pajak
>Lexington Park, Maryland
>
>Check out our Oldsmobiles and more at
>http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
>_________________________________________________________
>DO YOU YAHOO!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 10:07:33 -0400
From: "VBDeveloper" <vbdeveloper@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: ISO '68 Delta Convert Weatherstrip

Try Kanter Auto products 1800 526 1096. I just purchased a full top kit for
my '69 Ninety- Eight and
YES it was expensive 300 with sales tax. But you have to pay more for
better things. There is also
Oldsmobile USA  1 703 335 1935. They are somewhat less expensive and have a
better selection, but quality is.........Good luck.




- ----------
> From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: ISO '68 Delta Convert Weatherstrip
> Date: Wednesday, August 19, 1998 08:34 AM
>
> In a message dated 98-08-18 22:37:31 EDT, you write:
>
> << I'm presently restoring my Delta 88 convertable and I am having
trouble
>  find weather stripping for the windows and doors. Can anyone help?
>  Is there a  catalog for such parts?
>   >>
>
> Mark,
>
> Try Steete or Softseal, but let me warn you they're not cheap. For five
pieces
> they want $250! I know because I've been looking for my mine.
Unfortunately, I
> don't know of any alternative.
> Bruce
> 75 Delta 88 Conv.828

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 10:30:16 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: RE: TH400 electric kickdown

...i was under the assumption from previous discussion that the
pink/orange wire connector as described below was already hooked up to
power
and left dead ended (not hooked up if not needed...ie as in the case of a
350/350 setup)...
_________________

True

=================

...i believe that you told me there was a black wire in the
loom with a connector that was used for the backup lights (or something
like
that) on a 350/350 setup that could be used on the kickdown switch...
_________________

Not sure if that was me.  Typically black denotes a ground circuit.

=================

...i found a black wire in the wiring loom that had the starter solenoid
wires (white &
purple wires) in it. hooked it up but have not had a chance to try it and
see if it works. this was activity was based on that previous thread. this
latest thread has led me to believe that i did this wrong.
question#1:  if the orange wire from this connector does go to the tranny,
where do you pick it up in the wiring loom?
_________________

The orange wire goes from the kickdown switch connector to the firewall
connector.  Coming out of that connector (on the engine side of the
firewall) the orange wire turns into a black wire with an orange stripe.
This is the one that goes to the transmission.

=================

question#2: i know this has been addressed before but i am a simple minded
mechanic and need specific information to get something done. could you
hook
the electric choke on this gauge-trans 10 amp fuse/circuit you mention
below.
_________________

Yes, that would give you the switched feed for the electric choke.  The
only issue would be the current draw of the electric choke and whether or
not you would overload the 10 amp circuit (I can see it now - you're right
on the ragged edge with the choke and gauges operating, and the fuse blows
every time you activate the kickdown solenoid ;-)

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 10:37:06 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: opinion on headers

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_004C_01BDCB5D.4FF07E40
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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I have a 75 with a 455 on which I put a set of Hooker Competition =
Headers (not super comps $$$$). They wen in without any heat, hammering, =
bending, or disconnecting of motor mounts. They are also 14 Ga. steel. =
That makes them heavy but more durable than almost any header made. =
They're still lighter than manifolds, have 1-3/4" primaries (great for =
the street), 3" collectors, and adequate road clearance. I know a 68 is =
different from a 75, but the frames are very similar and Hooker has =
obviously worked hard to make sure that their headers bolt on easily. =
Frankly, the removal of the manifolds was much more difficult than the =
installation of the headers. Tips: go buy a filter housing gasket before =
you start, and don't try to work the headers around the starter, remove =
it before you start. You'll do a lot of work through your wheel wells, a =
lift rack is of great benefit.
- -----Original Message-----
   =20
    Hello,=20
   =20
    I have a 1968 Olds 442 with the original 400ci engine.  I'm looking =
for a pair headers to put on it.  Do you any suggestions on which ones =
to get or which ones fit the best?   =20
   =20
   =20

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have a 75 with a 455 on which I =
put a set of=20
Hooker Competition Headers (not super comps $$$$). They wen in without =
any heat,=20
hammering, bending, or disconnecting of motor mounts. They are also 14 =
Ga.=20
steel. That makes them heavy but more durable than almost any header =
made.=20
They're still lighter than manifolds, have </FONT><FONT color=3D#000000=20
size=3D2>1-3/4&quot; primaries (great for the street), 3&quot; =
collectors, and=20
adequate road clearance. I know a 68 is different from a 75, but the =
frames are=20
very similar and Hooker has obviously worked hard to make sure that =
their=20
headers bolt on easily. Frankly, the removal of the manifolds was much =
more=20
difficult than the installation of the headers. Tips: go buy a filter =
housing=20
gasket before you start, and don't try to work the headers around the =
starter,=20
remove it before you start. You'll do a lot of work through your wheel =
wells, a=20
lift rack is of great benefit.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original=20
    Message-----</B><BR></FONT><BR>Hello, <BR><BR>I have a 1968 Olds 442 =
with=20
    the original 400ci engine.&nbsp; I'm looking for a pair headers to =
put on=20
    it.&nbsp; Do you any suggestions on which ones to get or which ones =
fit the=20
    best?&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
<BR><BR>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 10:13:58 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Odds and Ends, was: 307 to 71 350, or 72 455

Oldsmagnet wrote:

> More fun?  Well, got my bellhousing today...  Now I just need the 4 speed to
go > with it :)  And driveshaft...  Anyone here done a G-body stick yet???

Haven't done it yet  but I did find the pedal, z-bar and linkage
assemblies out of an  80 ElCamino to perform the swap.  They're in the
trunk of my Calais right now, all that's left for me to do is find a
bellhousing, clutch, 5-speed borg-warner, 3.73 rear axle and the cash to
bankroll it all. :)  Oh yeah, I guess I have to install it all too. :)

> All too amusing (and disheartenning) to
>me, the pics of my donor Toro show the car at it's origin (in a field) and 
then
>on my trailer at my house, and then with front clip off...  All dates marked 
on
>pics show within two days...  No progress since that point.. Still a couple
months of >snowless weather, hopefully.  With any luck, I'll get a chance to
finish that project >by snowfall...  Hopefully :(

Sheeesh, I hear ya.  I was hoping to get the Calais on the road by the
start of fall sememster at school but that plan is shot to hell.  I have
at least another month's work to do, probably won't be done until
christmas :(, which is about the earliest we see snowfall around here.
That estimate dosn't include installing a manual tranny, which I wasn't
planning to do until possibly next summer.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 11:08:50 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: SX start woes (Stop Re:'ing Don't blame me..<<yawn>>)

Hellooooo-oooo?
Only RocketTalk is an appropriate forum for that thread.
Go there and flame all you want!
(It is because of this that I do not watch the news anymore...)

And now for something completely different

<< The SX didn't want to start today after work. I went out, turned the key,
and not even a click; warning lights went out and didn't come back on. (huh?)

I checked the battery connections, tried in both Park and Neutral ....>>

Does that mean that you tried to start it in both park and neutral with the
same results: idiot lights go out?

<<....(thought the new neutral-safety switch might be misadjusted; made no
difference), turned the key to on, made sure the idiot lights were lit, turned
the key, and "vroom" it started without hesitation. >>

You were able to start it finally with no changes to other things?
It just decided to start that once?

<< There was something funny about the car when I started it in the morning; I
dunno how to say it, but there was a millisecond click or hesitation before
the starter turned the engine over. >>

Did the starter crank normally, or was it exxagerated?

I am kinda leery of the fact that the idiot lights went OUT.

My suggestion is, of course based on a lingering problem recently solved.

The contacts in the connection between my starter wires (not batt cable) and
main wire harness were corroded and there was weak tension between two of the
contacts.
Yes my battery was very good then, but it started on the first monday in
January.

The result was an intermittent failure to deliver adequate current.

Difference between my prob and yours is your idiot lights go out.

How do they go out?
Do they flicker or snap off?

If flicker, likely poor power feed from batt.
Something like that happened to my father's Oldsmobile....

If they snap off, this is gonna be another really different troubleshooting
session!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 10:23:14 -0500
From: "Kijowski, Stan" <SKIJOWSKI@midland.com>
Subject: RE: TH400 electric kickdown

> ---------
> ...i was under the assumption from previous discussion that the
> pink/orange wire connector as described below was already hooked up to
> power
> and left dead ended (not hooked up if not needed...ie as in the case of a
> 350/350 setup)...
> _________________
>
> True
>
	**************************************************
	so now, all i have to do is find a black wire with an orange stripe
(which is left open, dead ended, or whatever it is called) in the engine
compartment wiring loom and attach it to the tranny.  sounds simple....
	***************************************************

> ...i believe that you told me there was a black wire in the
> loom with a connector that was used for the backup lights (or something
> like
> that) on a 350/350 setup that could be used on the kickdown switch...
> _________________
>
> Not sure if that was me.  Typically black denotes a ground circuit.
>
	
****************************************************************************
	you probably told me it was a black wire with an orange stripe. my
memory isn't what it used to be and i left the hard copy of that particular
e-mail at home. maybe that black wire has an orange stripe on it but it is
too hard to see with all the grunge on it.
	
****************************************************************************
*

> question#1:  if the orange wire from this connector does go to the tranny,
> where do you pick it up in the wiring loom?
> _________________
>
> The orange wire goes from the kickdown switch connector to the firewall
> connector.  Coming out of that connector (on the engine side of the
> firewall) the orange wire turns into a black wire with an orange stripe.
> This is the one that goes to the transmission.
>
	
****************************************************************************
*****
	and the pink wire is already hooked to power in the aforementioned
10 amp fuse.   if this is true, then you were just telling the person who
asked about this that pink/power wire is typically hooked up in that spot
already and that is where they should hook it up to if it was a new
installation. if that is the case, i feel stupid... as my wife jokingly told
me this morning, "you have scambled eggs for brains this morning, don't
you?"  i responded (jokingly and lovingly) that it was her fault my brains
are scrambled!!!!!
	
****************************************************************************
*******

> question#2: i know this has been addressed before but i am a simple minded
> mechanic and need specific information to get something done. could you
> hook
> the electric choke on this gauge-trans 10 amp fuse/circuit you mention
> below.
> _________________
>
> Yes, that would give you the switched feed for the electric choke.  The
> only issue would be the current draw of the electric choke and whether or
> not you would overload the 10 amp circuit (I can see it now - you're right
> on the ragged edge with the choke and gauges operating, and the fuse blows
> every time you activate the kickdown solenoid ;-)
>
	
****************************************************************************
******
	i get your point. i 'll find somewhere else to get power for the
choke
	
****************************************************************************
******
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 70 W-30
>
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1437
*********************************
