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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1497


oldsmobile-digest     Monday, September 21 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1497



Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3
Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines
Re: 400 'E' block/ 425block
Re: Fw: 67 Cutlass Steering Parts
75 0lds 88  convertable parts
Alternator or Battery
G-Body Coil Springs
Re: Alternator or Battery
FS: New Parts
Re: Fw: 67 Cutlass Steering Parts
Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines
Re: Fw: 67 Cutlass Steering Parts  center link
Fw: Insurance via net...
Re: Hurst Shifter For Sale
Re: 455 block needed
TDC
UNBOUNCE: ISO '75 Delta Convert parts
UNBOUNCE: G-Body Coil Springs
Re: Fw: 67 Cutlass Steering Parts
Removing G-body from chassis
Fair price for engine?
Re: Removing G-body from chassis
My Delta's pissing me off again!!!!!!!
Another Fine Mess I Got My Self Into.......
Re: Fw: 67 Cutlass Steering Parts
Scripts-letter reproduction
Oil Light Problem
Re-Post:  Camshaft I.D.
Re: 455 block needed
Re-Post: Holley SB Intake For Sale
'72 H/O stripe placement
[none]
[none]
Re: Re-Post: Holley SB Intake For Sale
Test Message
Fw: '72 H/O stripe placement
Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3
g-body
Re: Hurst Shifter For Sale
Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3
[none]
Test Message
White smoke
q4
Re: Fair price for engine?
Re: Removing G-body from chassis
Re: High Rev's and W's
Back to original -- engine compartment
Nearly constant squeal
Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3
Re: 1985 442
Re: Alternator and Voltage Regulator
Re: Fair price for engine?
License plate choice
RE: 1985 442
Re: Hurst Shifter For Sale
Re: White smoke (and tranny clicking noise)
Re: Alternator or Battery
Fw: EGR Drill
Re: License plate choice

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:36:22 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3

Lou, does not overlap occur at TDC, when neither lobe is up?  This would
yield closed valves.  Peter (More than once wrong, willing to stand
corrected) .
___________

Sorry Peter, but Lou is correct.  Overlap is the term applied to the period
when both valves are open; the intake valve starts to open as the exhaust
is closing.  This does occur aroundTDC, but on the exhaust stroke, not the
compression stroke.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:36:50 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines

Along this same thread - what constitutes the differences between these 400
castings (66-67) and the 68 big block casting?

Lisa Madsen
__________

Lisa, which 68 big block?  The 68 G-block 400 had an even smaller bore than
the early 400 (3.870 vs 4.000) and used the 4.25 stroke 455 crank to make
up the difference.

As an interesting side note to this whole thread, if you drop the late
400/455 crank (4.25 stroke) into the early E-block 400 block (4.000 bore),
you get a 427 Olds.  If you go 0.060 over, you get a 440 (unfortunately,
you need a custom set of 4.066 pistons to get it to 442 cu in).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:37:20 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 400 'E' block/ 425block

Since they couldn't put the 425
into the 442, wouldn't the cheapest and easiest (read GM Corp) way be to
just
lightly modify an existing block? Take a 425 block and leave a little extra
meat in the cylinder liner?
__________

Well, 0.125" on the bore would be a lot of extra material to leave in the
rough casting.  When you consider the extra material costs (small) and the
extra machining time (relatively large, including extra wear and tear on
the machine tools), I'd be willing to bet that it was cheaper to have two
block castings than to machine every 425 block the extra 0.125".  The
design work, which was quite small, only needed to be done once, so this
non-recurring cost was amortized over hundreds of thousands of motors.  The
extra machining costs would be incurred on every 425.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:39:41 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Fw: 67 Cutlass Steering Parts

Rare parts is the only place I can find it and they want about $150 for
one.
Fusick I think has one for $175.  PST actually make it and they sell it for
$175 also.  Should this cost this much?
_________

This center link is unfortunately very difficult to come by.  I thought it
was out of production and the only units available were remanufactured
items.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Jun 1998 20:24:16 -0400
From: "george a montowski" <GMONTOWSKI@prodigy.net>
Subject: 75 0lds 88  convertable parts

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I have a 1975 olds 88 convertable in  very good condition, however I =
need a few parts for it, like a map light . The paint on my interior =
door  and rear side panel  chrome decor strips is wearing off. is there =
a way to repaint them, to give them the depth they used to have ?, My =
plastic armrest housing for the front seat arm rest is cracked. is there =
a place to get a new one or have it repaired ? I can also use a new  =
drivers side turn signal lense . Is there any place that i can get these =
parts. I have tried Fusiks's, auto parts, with no luck. I also tried =
local junk yards. Maybee some one can direct me to another source !   =
thanks.,   Please return E. Mail to GMONTOWSKI@PRODEGY.NET>  thanks.  =
George M.=20

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I have a 1975 olds 88 convertable in&nbsp; very good =

condition, however I need a few parts for it, like a map light . The =
paint on my=20
interior door&nbsp; and rear side panel&nbsp; chrome decor strips is =
wearing=20
off. is there a way to repaint them, to give them the depth they used to =
have ?,=20
My plastic armrest housing for the front seat arm rest is cracked. is =
there a=20
place to get a new one or have it repaired ? I can also use a new&nbsp; =
drivers=20
side turn signal lense . Is there any place that i can get these parts. =
I have=20
tried Fusiks's, auto parts, with no luck. I also tried local junk yards. =
Maybee=20
some one can direct me to another source !&nbsp;&nbsp; =
thanks.,&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
Please return E. Mail to GMONTOWSKI@PRODEGY.NET&gt;&nbsp; thanks.&nbsp; =
George=20
M. </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:01:30 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Alternator or Battery

Over the weekend my 94 Cav was going  crazy again.  I had my car in park and
the speedometer was going up and down.  It went from 0 to 100 and back to 0.
And this is with the car in park.  The emergency break idiot light was on
along with the ABS idiot light too. I shut the car off and now it want
start.  Can anyone please tell me what the problem might be?


======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
21 Wins 13 Losses 1Tie
======================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 16:08:00 -0400
From: "Francomm" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: G-Body Coil Springs

Hello all.

Has anyone changed their coil springs over to after market units. All
related suspension bushings will be converted to polygraphite front and
rear. With stock coils + gas shocks, I now have 5.5" clearance from level
ground to the bottom of my front ram-air dam. I believe the stock suspension
has like 4.5" of travel. Way to much for my setup. Most aftermarket coils
reduce standing height from 1 - 1.5". would look cool except for when the
air dam touches down and disintegrates. I need stiff progressive coils
springs that I'll be able to effectively reduce the suspension travel to
around 2.5" I'm already equipped with Mon*y SS sway bars with graphite
bushings.

Anyone have suggestions/leads/experience in the G-Body suspension and
quality spring manufactures?

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse

Couse Customs

gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>

 
"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 13:13:25 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator or Battery

> Over the weekend my 94 Cav was going  crazy again.  I had my car in
> park and the speedometer was going up and down.  It went from 0 to
> 100 and back to 0.
> And this is with the car in park.  The emergency break idiot light
> was  on along with the ABS idiot light too. I shut the car off and
> now it want start.

Maybe a plug wire is shorting into a wiring harness. Seems to me it
would take a pretty big kick to knock the speedo needle up to 100 mph.
But mainly I'd definitely check the various ground wire connections,
both under the dash and under the hood. Sounds like the power for one
circuit (or more) is doubling back through a bunch of others.

Any major repairs been done recently that might have disturbed any
pieces of wiring harness?

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 16:15:26 -0400
From: "Jim & Joanne Chermack" <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: FS: New Parts

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Hey All,

    We're back from Charlotte and have lots of new items for sale. It =
was great seeing some of you there.=20

53 (N.O.S.) 88/98 Hood Emblem (in box)  $125.00=20
57 (N.O.S.) 88/98 Taillight Lens (1 only)  $35.00
57 (Repro) 88/98 Taillight Lens (2)  $40.00 pr
60 (N.O.S.) 88/98 RH Taillight assm. w/chrome  $145.00
66 (N.O.S.) Cutlass LH Taillight Lens (2)  $25.00 ea
67 (N.O.S.) Vista Cruiser RH Taillight Lens  $40.00
68 (N.O.S.) Cutlass/442 Turn Signal Lens (front, 2 prs)  $35.00 pr
69 (N.O.S.) Cutlass/442 Turn Signal Lens (front)  $85.00 pr=20
72 (N.O.S.) Cutlass Supreme, H/O LH grille $50.00
73-75 (N.O.S.) Cutlass "S", 442,  H/O RH Qtr Panel  $350.00
75-77 (N.O.S.) Cutlass Supreme Header Panel  $150.00
76-77 (N.O.S.) 442 Cutlass "S" Header Panel  $225.00
64-65 Conv Rear Side Panels (mixed colors good cond)  $35.00 pr
64-65 330/400 Valve Covers (nice)  $55.00 pr
64-65 Cutlass/442 Conv Rear Side Glass (mint)  $150.00 pr
64-69 4 Spd Console Top Plate (2 pieces, no boot, nice)  $125.00
65 400 442 4-Jet Carb (rebuilt)  $175.00
65 442 Grille (nice used)  $135.00
65 442 RH Fender (no rust, small ding)  $275.00
66-67 SSI Wheels (nice not perfect, 4)  $200.00
66-67 RH "W" Exhaust Manifold (mint)  $125.00
67 442 W-30 "C" Heads (VG code, drilled and plugged)  $400.00 pr
67 442 Hurst Shifter for console  $65.00
67 442 W-30 UHV system (complete w/ N.O.S coil and experimental =
distributor)  $550.00
68-72 400/455 Notched Valve Covers (2 prs)  $65.00 pr
68 Cutlass/442 Front Bumper (nice w 2 small dings)  $125.00
68 442 Rear Bumper (very nice) $250.00
69 Cutlass, H/O, 442 Dash Woodgrain (mint orig)  $30.00=20
69 Cutlass/442 Conv trunk lid (mint)  $150.00
70-72 Floor Console (regular auto, black, no cracks, no ball)  $125.00
70 442/SX Cutout Rear Bumper (nice rechrome, not perfect)  $275.00
70 W-30 Intake (Early w/ Oldsmobile W-455) date code 11/13/69  $575.00
70-73 SSII Wheels (4, off 72 H/O with orig paint.) $175.00 set
70-75 Sport Steering Wheel (mint wheel lots of grain, black, with hub =
and center)  $225.00
83-84 Hurst Olds Lightning Rod shifter assm (no cable, nice)  $280.00
307-403 Edelbrock Performer Intake (nice)  $120.00

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts
Virginia Beach, VA
(757)474-0869

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<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3509.100"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Hey All,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; We're back from Charlotte =
and have=20
lots of new items for sale. It was great seeing some of you there. =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>53 (N.O.S.) 88/98 Hood Emblem (in box)&nbsp; =
$125.00=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>57 (N.O.S.) 88/98 Taillight Lens (1 =
only)&nbsp;=20
$35.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>57 (Repro) 88/98 Taillight Lens =
(2)&nbsp; $40.00=20
pr</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>60 (N.O.S.) 88/98 RH Taillight assm. =
w/chrome&nbsp;=20
$145.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>66 (N.O.S.) Cutlass LH Taillight Lens =
(2)&nbsp;=20
$25.00 ea</DIV>
<DIV>67 (N.O.S.) Vista Cruiser RH Taillight Lens&nbsp; $40.00</DIV>
<DIV>68 (N.O.S.) Cutlass/442 Turn Signal Lens (front, 2 prs)&nbsp; =
$35.00=20
pr</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>69 (N.O.S.) Cutlass/442 Turn Signal Lens =
(front)&nbsp;=20
$85.00 pr </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>72 (N.O.S.) Cutlass Supreme, H/O LH grille=20
$50.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>73-75 (N.O.S.) Cutlass &quot;S&quot;, =
442,&nbsp; H/O RH=20
Qtr Panel&nbsp; $350.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>75-77 (N.O.S.) Cutlass Supreme Header =
Panel&nbsp;=20
$150.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>76-77 (N.O.S.) 442 Cutlass &quot;S&quot; =
He</FONT><FONT=20
color=3D#000000>ader Panel&nbsp; $225.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>64-65 Conv Rear Side Panels (mixed =
colors good=20
cond)&nbsp; $35.00 pr</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>64-65 330/400 Valve Covers =
(nice)&nbsp; $55.00=20
pr</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>64-65 Cutlass/442 Conv Rear Side Glass =
(mint)&nbsp;=20
$150.00 pr</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>64-69 4 Spd Console Top Plate (2 pieces, no boot, nice)&nbsp; =
$125.00</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>65 400 442 4-Jet Carb (rebuilt)&nbsp;=20
$175.00</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>65 442 Grille (nice used)&nbsp; =
$135.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>65 442 RH Fender (no rust, small =
ding)&nbsp;=20
$275.00</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>66-67 SSI Wheels (nice not perfect, 4)&nbsp;=20
$200.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>66-67 RH &quot;W&quot; Exhaust =
Manifold=20
(mint)&nbsp; $125.00</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>67 442 W-30 &quot;C&quot; Heads (VG code, =
drilled and=20
plugged)&nbsp; $400.00 pr</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>67 442 Hurst Shifter for console&nbsp; =

$65.00</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>67 442 W-30 UHV system (complete w/ =
N.O.S coil=20
and experimental distributor)&nbsp; $550.00</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>68-72 400/455 Notched Valve Covers (2 =
prs)&nbsp; $65.00=20
pr</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>68 Cutlass/442 Front Bumper (nice w 2 small dings)&nbsp; =
$125.00</DIV>
<DIV>68 442 Rear Bumper (very nice) $250.00</DIV>
<DIV>69 Cutlass, H/O, 442 Dash Woodgrain (mint orig)&nbsp; $30.00 </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>69 Cutlass/442 Conv trunk lid (mint)&nbsp;=20
$150.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>70-72 Floor Console (regular auto, =
black, no=20
cracks, no ball)&nbsp; $125.00</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>70 442/SX Cutout Rear Bumper (nice rechrome, =
not=20
perfect)&nbsp; $275.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>70 W-30 Intake (Early w/ Oldsmobile W-455) =
date code=20
11/13/69&nbsp; $575.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>70-73 SSII Wheels (4, off 72 H/O with =
orig=20
paint.) $175.00 set</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>70-75 Sport Steering Wheel (mint wheel lots =
of grain,=20
black, with hub and center)&nbsp; $225.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>83-84 Hurst Olds Lightning Rod shifter assm =
(no cable,=20
nice)&nbsp; $280.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>307-403 Edelbrock Performer Intake =
(nice)&nbsp;=20
$120.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Jim Chermack</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>C&amp;M Classic Parts</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>Virginia Beach, VA</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>(757)474-0869</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:16:04 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Fw: 67 Cutlass Steering Parts

I don't know if this will help but you should defenitely try all (I
mean ALL) discount parts places you have around.
For the 68 you can still get the whole front suspenision parts real cheap
at AutoZone. Maybe 68 is the deadline for discount stores but don't pay that
much when there is a chance to get it at the discount store. It is just
some phonecalls you got to invest, no big deal...

George
- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------


> This last week I have tried to find parts for my front-end.  I wanted =
> outer and inner tie-rods on both sides, a pitman arm, and a center =
> (drag) link.
> I found the inner and outer tie rods at A-line (moog) they where about =
> $40 for the outer(each) and $23 for the inner (each).  the pitman arm =
> was about $35.  They (A-line) could not get the factory 13/16" =
> center-link.
> Rare parts is the only place I can find it and they want about $150 for =
> one.
> Fusick I think has one for $175.  PST actually make it and they sell it =
> for $175 also.  Should this cost this much? $150 for tie-rods and pitman =
> arm,$150 for center-link.  $300 for the front end and that doesn't even =
> include bushings or ball joints.  Sounds a little pricey for me.   BTW =
> the center link for a 78-8? center link is only $45. or less.
>
> >Brett Wilson   =20
> 67 Cutlass Convertible
> www.froadin.com/images/brett/images
> My site will be up soon>>>>>>oldsracing.com!
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:23:32 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines

Agree with Joe,
Would be afraid to go past .060 on that block.
Lou Biggs


> Some folks say that it's easy to take the 400 'E' block out to 425 by
> boring
> as this is exactly what the factory did to make a 425. Same block and
> crank,
> bigger pistons.
> __________
>
> Well, the early 400 and the 425 definitely use different block castings
(B
> (65) or E (66-7) and D, respectively), so I doubt this is true.  It _may_
> be possible to take the early 400 out to 4.125", but you'd need to get
the
> cylinder walls ultrasonic tested.  I've actually contemplated doing this
so
> I can build an E block 455 for my 66 convert.  I'd love for it to remain
a
> numbers-matching car.
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 16:26:33 EDT
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fw: 67 Cutlass Steering Parts  center link

I have a center link off my 67,442 that Im parting out,  e-mail or call  908
276 5277

Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:31:36 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Fw: Insurance via net...

> Subject: Re: Insurance via net...
> Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 3:28 PM
>
> Charley,
> Got one for an antique car via Internet. All kinds of limitations. Saved
it
> to diskette somewhere. If I find it all forward. Supposedly they insure
> other then antiques also.
> Lou
>
> ----------
> > From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Insurance via net...
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 16:41:28 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Hurst Shifter For Sale

Nathyn M. Knipe wrote:
>
> I have a Hurst Quater Stick for a TH350 transmission, and i would imagine
> it would fit a TH400 also....i have everything for it including an
> aluminum cover for it too....make offer....Nathyn  email me personnaly at
> nmknipe@syr.edu

How old is it/how long was it used/where are you located/what condition?

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:36:25 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: 455 block needed

Good block to work on, well seasoned, no joke intended. Need much machine
work but...
Lou Biggs

- ----------
> From: rkn <rkn@ezaccess.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 455 block needed
> Date: Sunday, September 20, 1998 1:23 AM
>
> I have a 425 block out of a 66 Dynamic 88. Also 2bbl intake and carb.
> heads, pistons w/rods and caps. No crank, no cam, no main caps. Block is
> rusted evenly, all over. If anyone wants this stuff, just come and get
it.
> I'll never use it and I gotta get it out of here sooner or later. My
> Dynamic had a 455 in it that someone put in before I got the car so I
built
> that motor instead. Not going for stock obviously. If your interested I'm
> in North eastern PA. e-mail me directly at:
> rkn@ezaccess.net.		R. Kevin Noon

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:53:20 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: TDC

Peter,
TDC occurs twice on four cycle engine, once on valve overlap, once in
firing position. Firing, both valves closed, in overlap, here comes the
disclaimer, with any reasonable camshaft both valves will be slightly open.

Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
67 442 all orig.
75 CS same way

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 17:58:08 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: ISO '75 Delta Convert parts

Not on the list; respond to GMONTOWSKI@prodigy.net if you can assist...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"george a montowski" <GMONTOWSKI@prodigy.net>
Subject: 75 0lds 88  convertable parts

I have a 1975 olds 88 convertable in  very good condition, however I =
need a few parts for it, like a map light . The paint on my interior =
door  and rear side panel  chrome decor strips is wearing off. is there =
a way to repaint them, to give them the depth they used to have ?, My =
plastic armrest housing for the front seat arm rest is cracked. is there =
a place to get a new one or have it repaired ? I can also use a new  =
drivers side turn signal lense . Is there any place that i can get these =
parts. I have tried Fusiks's, auto parts, with no luck. I also tried =
local junk yards. Maybee some one can direct me to another source !   =
thanks.,   Please return E. Mail to GMONTOWSKI@PRODEGY.NET>  thanks.  =
George M.=20

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 17:59:23 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: G-Body Coil Springs

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Francomm" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: G-Body Coil Springs

Hello all.

Has anyone changed their coil springs over to after market units. All
related suspension bushings will be converted to polygraphite front and
rear. With stock coils + gas shocks, I now have 5.5" clearance from level
ground to the bottom of my front ram-air dam. I believe the stock suspension
has like 4.5" of travel. Way to much for my setup. Most aftermarket coils
reduce standing height from 1 - 1.5". would look cool except for when the
air dam touches down and disintegrates. I need stiff progressive coils
springs that I'll be able to effectively reduce the suspension travel to
around 2.5" I'm already equipped with Mon*y SS sway bars with graphite
bushings.

Anyone have suggestions/leads/experience in the G-Body suspension and
quality spring manufactures?

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse

Couse Customs

gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>

 
"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:00:53 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Fw: 67 Cutlass Steering Parts

I got one a few years back for my '64 (I think they are the same part) and
it was in the price range you quoted. But at the time they were still
available new as a Moog part, I believe...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 16:57:53 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Removing G-body from chassis

I am planning a first rod project that will require a g-body chassis. As part
of my "scoping exercise" I am trying to understand the job required to
separate a body from its chassis.

I can pretty well see disconnecting the wiring, controls, and steering shaft,
but I don't know what else attaches. For instance, can the engine (and rest of
the drive line) be left in while the body is lifted off? Where is the body
attached? How many bolts? I'm hoping to visualize this task before actually
tackling it.

If there is a book or a website that details the operation, I would be pleased
to know it.

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 05:08:15 -0400
From: Andy Mikesell <andymikesell@mediaone.net>
Subject: Fair price for engine?

List -
I saw this ad in the paper this weekend and was considering it for a
swap the tired stock 2bb 455 in my 71 Delta 88 convertible

"72 OLDS 455 W30 ENG w/'73 intake. 385hp, 400+ ft lbs torque. $650/bo.
$650/bo."

 Is this a fair price?
- - Andy
71 Delta 88 convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 17:23:36 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Removing G-body from chassis

I can pretty well see disconnecting the wiring, controls, and steering
shaft,
but I don't know what else attaches. For instance, can the engine (and rest
of
the drive line) be left in while the body is lifted off? Where is the body
attached? How many bolts? I'm hoping to visualize this task before actually
tackling it.
_________

Yes, the driveline can be left in the frame while the body is removed (it
goes in before the body on the assembly line).  First thing will be to
remove the bumpers and the  front end sheet metal.  Hood, fenders, core
support with radiator.  Next, disconnect and remove the steering column.
Vent the A/C system (properly recycling the Freon) and disconnect the
lines.  Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core.  Disconnect the
brake lines from the master cylinder, ensuring that there are no clips
attaching the lines to the firewall.  There should not be any wires going
to the frame - they should all be contained in the body.  Disconnect the
fuel lines from the gas tank and drop the tank.  Note that there may be an
evaporative canister under the car, attached to the floor pan - be sure to
disconnect the hoses going to it.  Disconnect the shift linkage and
accelerator cable.

At this point there are 12-14 bolts holding the body onto the frame.  These
are accessed through openings in the bottom of the frame and thread into
caged nuts in the body.  These nuts are blind and usually rust to the
bolts, so you'll want to use an impact wrench.  The body can now be lifted
free.  Note that you may want to pull out the seats, doors, and anything
else you can to make it lighter.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 17:27:29 EDT
From: JCRASH7@aol.com
Subject: My Delta's pissing me off again!!!!!!!

Hey gang,
     Pulled the Delta out again today, and now the transmission was making a
severe "clicking" noise!  This time it didn't sound like the engine, it was
definitely the tranny.  Also, white smoke was coming out of the exhaust pipe,
and when I checked the oil, it was about a quarter of an inch lower today than
yesterday, but still full.

     Is my car finally dying?  Is it going to Olds heaven?  I hope not because
I gave the Caddy back to my dad, and if my Olds' engine and tranny are going,
I'm screwed because I have NO FREAKING IDEA how to do an engine/tranny swap,
AND I wouldn't have enough money to find another decent car!

TIA,
- -------------------------
Joe Sherbanenko
jcrash7@aol.com
http://members.tripod.com/~jcrash7
- -------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 17:33:31 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Another Fine Mess I Got My Self Into.......

Ladies and Gents of the Olds List,

Somehow, my damned credit card that I have always paid my AOL fees with
hiccupped and didn't accept the AOL charges, which in turn cut us to inactive
status Sunday, which must have also dropped us from the list.  I'm not sure if
my messages got posted or not regarding the camshaft and the intake for sale.
If you had a response to either of them, please re-send them and I'll answer
you as quickly as possible.  And if they didn't show up, I'll re-post them
later this evening.

Sorry about that.  Take Care!
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 14:40:07 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: 67 Cutlass Steering Parts

I ended up paying $190 (including shipping) for a '66 13/16"
center link from year one. tierod ends shoud be abot $20 each.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 14:52:26 -0700
From: "mike aldana" <maldana@inreach.com>
Subject: Scripts-letter reproduction

Hi to all members of the list...As the hot weather winds down in my part of
the country, i will be taking on more concentrated, time consuming work. I
have been casting scripts and letters for all makes of vehicles for many
years now. I am now offering this same service at a discounted price for all
the members of this list. Broken scripts, can be reproduced in bronze/brass
alloy  and plated to look almost if not as good as the originals. The prices
normally range from $100.00 to $125.00 ea. I can offer the casting/plating
for $75.00 per side. I would need one side,(cracked,broken ok) to work from.
No damage occurs on the original one. Turnaround time would run 4-6 weeks,
since this is very time consuming, and meticulous hand work. All work is
guaranteed to please, as always.   For more info email to
maldana@inreach.com     sincerely   Mike

Mike Aldana
417 Encinas Ave.
Calexico Ca.92231          760-357-0713

              Restoration Services
Chromeplating, pot metal repair
Polishing Stainless trim,aluminum,brass
Foundrywork,Casting ornaments,plaques,,cast iron, brass etc.
All work at hobby prices.       satisfaction always

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 17:58:44 EDT
From: TimLeary97@aol.com
Subject: Oil Light Problem

The oil pressure light switch on my 64 Cutlass was leaking so I replaced it.
The leak is fixed, but now the oil light won't go out.  the light was not lit
with the old unit.  Did I miss something when I replaced the switch, is there
some type of a reset procedure?  The engine is a 330, and I bought the new
switch at NAPA.  I'm pretty sure the oil pressure is good.  The engine was
rebuilt 15,000 miles ago, and the valve train is quiet.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:03:07 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re-Post:  Camshaft I.D.

Fellow Olds fanatics (like me),

I just made a killer deal on a 350 ready to reassemble with a ton of new
parts.  I plan on keeping everything but the intake (next post).  Right now, I
need to know any information about the new camshaft that others on the list
might have had experience with.  It's in a Speed-Pro/Sealed Power box, and the
number on the box is CS-176R.  176R is also on the end of the camshaft, so I'm
sure it's in the right box.  I'd be interested to know any lift and duration
numbers anyone out there might know.

Thanks for the help, and Take Care!

Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:21:35 +0000
From: ejhufnagel@juno.com (Edward J. Hufnagel)
Subject: Re: 455 block needed

 I'm in North eastern PA. e-mail me directly at:
 rkn@ezaccess.net.		R. Kevin Noon

     Where abouts in N.E. Penn.?

E.J.

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:13:30 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re-Post: Holley SB Intake For Sale

I'm gonna try this again -- bear with me if you saw this already.

FOR SALE:  One Holley Street Dominator intake for Small-Block Oldsmobiles.
This is the only true single-plane intake currently available for the small-
blocks, and this one's never been bolted on!  It has slight oxidation from
sitting around, but it's not modified in any way.  I got it as part of a 350
that some kid was planning on building for a car he owned, but never got to
put together -- the car was totalled before the engine got done.  I have one
of these already that we ran on the stock car back in 1992 (that intake has
been modified) and since we can't run them anymore, I don't need another one.
Price is $125.00, shipping included or trade for an unmodified Edelbrock
Performer 350 Olds in similar condition (this is the only intake we can run at
Lakeside now).  E-mail me privately at KS7RACING@aol.com for more info if
interested.

Thanks, and Take Care!

Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:23:17 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: '72 H/O stripe placement

Ok, ladies and gentlemen:

I'm seeking help on the stripe placement for the 72 H/O.  Or guidance to
the information anyway.  EXACTLY where is the stripe placement on a 72
H/O convertible??

I don't mean an answer like, "on the sides and trunk and hood" which
some of the more cynical people like myself would say.  :)   I mean how
far from the edge of the top of the fenders, how far back from the front
of the fender, etc.  Dimensions.  Measurements.  A guy I know is looking
for this information in the restoration of his baby, and I told him I
didn't know, but I can ask this list, since THEY'D probably know.  So,
if anyone who has an ORIGINAL-striped 72, or knows of exact stripe
placement for one of these beasts, can help me out, I'd sure appreciate
it immensely.

Thanks in advance,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:34:33 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: [none]

unsubscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:38:23 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: [none]

subscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:46:45 EDT
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: Re-Post: Holley SB Intake For Sale

<< This is the only true single-plane intake currently available for the
small-
 blocks, and this one's never been bolted on!  >>

the last i heard this intake was discontinued by holley.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:54:25 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Test Message

New e-mail package I'm using here...

Please let me know if I'm accidentally enclosing any attachments, if the
formatting's all screwed up, etc.

Thanks.

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 17:55:00 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Fw: '72 H/O stripe placement

> To all,
> Speaking of stripes, the ones of the 75 Cut. are in great shape, EXCEPT
the
> across the top in front of the Landau vinyl. It's only bad in one tiny
spot
> about, 1&1/2" where it's starting to disappear, too much polishing. Must
be
> real paint. It's maroon, burgundy, or cranberry. Had three different body
> shops tell me that. paint code is # 11, thats white, no stripe mentioned.
I
> have a striping brush, nice, cost about 30 bucks. With my manual
dexterity
> I might as well try "Irises" by Van Gogh. Any help out there. I believe
Van
> Dutch died. Can't use him.
> Lou Biggs
> lbiggs@intertek.net
> 67 442 all orig.
> 75 CS same way
>
> ----------
> > From: Mike Rothe. <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: '72 H/O stripe placement
> > Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 5:23 PM
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:57:18 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3

Peter, much chagrined and turning red, stands corrected.  Again.  Sigh.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM <Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 3:47 PM
Subject: Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3


>Lou, does not overlap occur at TDC, when neither lobe is up?  This would
>yield closed valves.  Peter (More than once wrong, willing to stand
>corrected) .
>___________
>
>Sorry Peter, but Lou is correct.  Overlap is the term applied to the period
>when both valves are open; the intake valve starts to open as the exhaust
>is closing.  This does occur aroundTDC, but on the exhaust stroke, not the
>compression stroke.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>70 W-30
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 19:05:05 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: g-body

Do any other g-body owners have problems with their power widows rising
very slowly?

And, does anyone know how to solve the classic g-body problem of the
window going a bit off track and not sealing when you out it up while
driving.  I know about opening the other window and equalizing pressure
and all, but is there anything that can be tightened or realligned to
alleviate this?

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 17:36:28 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Hurst Shifter For Sale

Hey!  Didn't you read the lecture about saying where you are when you're
selling stuff!

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA
On Mon, 21 Sep 1998 13:56:34 -0400 (EDT) "Nathyn M. Knipe"
<nmknipe@mailbox.syr.edu> writes:
>I have a Hurst Quater Stick for a TH350 transmission, and i would
>imagine
>it would fit a TH400 also....i have everything for it including an
>aluminum cover for it too....make offer....Nathyn  email me personnaly
>at
>nmknipe@syr.edu
>
>

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:07:19 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3

Peter,
Not to worry, believe you meant what you didn't exactly say. Just don't
mention THE WORD!
Regards,
Lou
lbiggs@intertek.net
67 442 all orig.
75 CS same way
- ----------
> From: Peter Berusch <pber710840@email.msn.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3
> Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 5:57 PM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 19:12:54 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: [none]

subscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 19:18:30 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Test Message

Sorry to the folks (Greg...) who may have seen all my idiot moves this
evening.  Got a new e-mail package and was trying to s*bscribe myself using
the oldsmobile address instead of the majordummy address...I think I'm
straightened out now...

BTW, please let me know if I'm doing anything dumb like attaching a copy of
this message or something like that.

Thanks list!

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:21:23 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: White smoke

Forgot who started the thread,  Need more info, pure white smoke "water",
cracked block or head. But unlikely, bluish white smoke, "oil", cracked or
busted ring, or piston, normally, but an exception to every rule.
especially with these darn cars. tranny, ask the General' .Never got past
TFs and 4 speeds.
Good Luck.

Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
67 442 all orig.
75 CS same way

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 16:34:21 PDT
From: "keith hernandez" <kdrguru@hotmail.com>
Subject: q4

keith here after a long summer.  how is the old mo club?  are you guys
still looking for door handles for your vista cruisers?  if you notice
in that 70s show, there is indeed a vista cruiser.  hey greg, why dont
you sign me up to your club again.  its been real guys.  the quads
running an inhaler now.  i got an 80 shot of nitrous to all four.  got
the scx up to 11.5 qm's.  yea it really got the cama*o guys fiddling
later in the day under the hood.  It was done buy one of the guys, and a
close friend, that worked for fueling enginnering.  the boys who
designed the aerotech.  any questions to you people ready to run.  hey
brent how ya doing these days.

ed
92 scx
92 stealth

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 06:34:33 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Fair price for engine?

If the guy is selling a ready to drop in motor, I think it is TOO GOOD TO
BE TRUE. I would not trust someone who is claiming that their motor is
making 385hp and 400+ ft lbs of torque. First of all, Olds motors would
produce about 500+ lbs of torque if they made 385hp. The horsepower vs.
torque rating that guy is giving is incorrect. That is more like a Chevy
motor output, than a long stroke Olds motor.

Second a 72 Olds 455 W30 motor did not make that much hp as he claims it
makes. Throw on a 73 (READ: SMOG INTAKE) intake and your choking that
motor. 385hp is motor is more like a 70 rating.
BRAND NEW out of Detroit, not sitting in some guys garage.

Third if this motor makes 385hp and he selling it for $650/ OBO. Then he
must have gotten a AWESOME deal on his parts/machining. I paid about
$5000.00 in having my motor completely rebuilt (including the heads which
were ported). My motor made DYNOPROVEN 440hp 540 ft lbs of power. THe cost
was $5000.00 not $650.00

I will tell you what that motor probably is good for. Take it apart and
rebuild it. IF you plan on just dropping it in the car. You will be
dissapointed. Not only that it will not make that much power as he claims,
but it may not even run at all. I would give him $500.00 and make him sign
a statement saying that if the block is cracked he will refund your $$$.
Take it apart and rebuild it.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Andy Mikesell <andymikesell@mediaone.net>
> To: Oldsmobile List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Fair price for engine?
> Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 4:08 AM
>
> List -
> I saw this ad in the paper this weekend and was considering it for a
> swap the tired stock 2bb 455 in my 71 Delta 88 convertible
>
> "72 OLDS 455 W30 ENG w/'73 intake. 385hp, 400+ ft lbs torque. $650/bo.
> $650/bo."
>
>  Is this a fair price?
> - Andy
> 71 Delta 88 convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 19:46:04 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Removing G-body from chassis

In a message dated 9/21/98
 4:<BR30:<BR53 PM Central Daylight Tim, Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM writes:

> At this point there are 12-14 bolts holding the body onto the frame.  These
>  are accessed through openings in the bottom of the frame and thread into
>  caged nuts in the body.  These nuts are blind and usually rust to the
>  bolts, so you'll want to use an impact wrench.  The body can now be lifted
>  free.  Note that you may want to pull out the seats, doors, and anything
>  else you can to make it lighter.

Joe,

Thanks for the rundown. It is a bit different than I had imagined, but now I
can see the sequence prteey well. I have a very strong outbuilding and I had
planned to jack the assy up, attach the body to the joists via multiple come-
alongs, do the disconnect in the air, and then lower the chassis away from the
body. I can see now that I will have to put it in front end first in order to
clear the engine (moving the body out backwards).

I appreciate the warning about removing interior and other excess weight.

Cheers/Don

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 19:54:06 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: High Rev's and W's

Mike, Thanks for the info. I may have to look into those other rear ends as I
do a lot of highway. I can't really get anywhere from here without the
turnpike or an interstate...  "Been travelling quite a ways recently to the
shows (I definitely have the bug). The Hemmings show in Bennington was just
OK.  Way too many Beanie Babies at the swap. What's the attraction?  This
weekend in Ipswich, MA is what I'm told is the creme de la creme of
collector/exotics shows.

One more about the W's. I know I don't have a W-30 and the car is very low on
options, but I do have the scooped hood.  The thing is... it's steel, not
glass. I can't find any references to anything other than glass.  So where did
this hood come from?  The previous owner claimed he spent $1400 incl. shipping
to get it (used). What car did it come from??

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:05:03 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Back to original -- engine compartment

Does anyone have (or know where to find) a photo of the way a 71 455 should
look in a 4-4-2?  I'd like to get back to original.  Currently have a chrome
open air cleaner ("Made in Taiwan" sticker on the bottom -YIKES), chrome valve
covers, yellow plug wires, etc.  I have a W-25 STEEL hood that I don't really
want to lose, but would like the right air cleaner system.  Also looking for a
sport steering wheel (Brothers "no" , Year One "no") and period front seat
belts (GM or Fisher logo, which?). Took 92 year old Grandma for a ride with
the top down on Sunday and she was looking for anything she could find to get
a grip on -- what a riot!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:09:17 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Nearly constant squeal

Experiencing this in my 71 4-4-2. 'Pretty sure it's wheel noise, but goes a
way for a while after applying the brakes. Also seems to change as I turn the
wheel, even slightly.  Wheel bearings??  Car is new to me and I'm a rookie
mechanic.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:07:40 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3

Aarrrgh!  THE WORD!  Not THE WORD!  What the hell is THE WORD  that I'm not
supposed to say?  In the words of my clinal compatriots, "I'se ignant".
Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 7:11 PM
Subject: Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3


>Peter,
>Not to worry, believe you meant what you didn't exactly say. Just don't
>mention THE WORD!
>Regards,
>Lou
>lbiggs@intertek.net
>67 442 all orig.
>75 CS same way
>----------
>> From: Peter Berusch <pber710840@email.msn.com>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3
>> Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 5:57 PM
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 19:19:06 -0500
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: Re: 1985 442

Frank Montero wrote:
	
	    My name is Frank. I recently purchased a 1985 442, white
w/gray bottom.

	<snip>

	I would like to know in this condition if you would be able to
give me a book value for the car. I already got one but a
	second opinion is always good.

	Frank, book value for a limited run '85-'87 442 is a joke.  When
I purchased my '87 in July of '93, my regular loan officer at the credit
union was on vacation.  (Figures...)  Anyway, the person who was filling
in tried to give me the runaround and tell me the "book value" was only
$3,700, or some such ridiculously low figure.  I gave up trying to
explain it to her, took my truck title to my banker for collateral, got
the check, and went to get my (then) 28,200 original mile '87.  Paid
under $10,000. Try to find one nowadays for less than that.  Book value?
We don't need no STEENKING book value!  (Sorry, guys, but I get a little
worked up when I hear "book value" quotes on ANY Olds, not just the G
body 442's.)  The question is, what's it worth to YOU?  Or a collector?

	Just my 2 pennies,

	Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
	Columbus, MS          1987 442

	http://www.442.com/newman.html
	http://www.442.com/newmantape.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:24:23 -0400
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator and Voltage Regulator

Been running the JCW solid state thing for about 10 years- works great.  You
can't tell it from OEM (except that it's too shiny).

Alternator has numbers stamped into it, but you have to pull it off to see
'em- or have one of those dentist mirrors and look underneath.  I have the
chassis manual for my '71 Cutlass, and it says they only used 37, 55, and 63
amp units, depending upon accessories fitted.  Mine has A/C and no defogger
= 55A.  With both = 65A.  With neither = 37A.  After the 7 digit part
number, you will see a rating, 2 numbers with A after them.

I have a spare 37A unit, if you need one.

Note that the regulator can handle alternators up to 80 A, I think, or more.
Your wiring harness is a different story.  If you go with a higher output
rating, tread lightly.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Thomas P. Smith <>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <>
Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 3:08 PM
Subject: Alternator and Voltage Regulator


>Afternoon, Rocket Drivers:
>
>    Got a few quick questions.  The alternator code for my car ('71
>Cutlass S 350) is "DN."  Anybody know the amperage rating for that?
>Next, I don't know if the alternator is original.
>Where would I look and what would the numbers be to make that
>determination?
>
>    Has anyone tried, or have knowledge about the quality of the
>solid-state external voltage regulator replacements that J.C Whitney
>sells?  When time comes to replace that, the solid-state sounds like a
>neat way to go.
>
>    Thanks for the input,
>
>    Thomas P. Smith
>    1971 Cutlass S 350
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:32:19 -0400
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Re: Fair price for engine?

In a word- yes.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andy Mikesell <andymikesell@mediaone.net>
To: Oldsmobile List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 5:03 PM
Subject: Fair price for engine?


>List -
>I saw this ad in the paper this weekend and was considering it for a
>swap the tired stock 2bb 455 in my 71 Delta 88 convertible
>
>"72 OLDS 455 W30 ENG w/'73 intake. 385hp, 400+ ft lbs torque. $650/bo.
>$650/bo."
>
> Is this a fair price?
>- Andy
>71 Delta 88 convertible
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:28:38 EDT
From: DKlauber@aol.com
Subject: License plate choice

Getting the car registered tomorrow.  Deciding on Classic Plates or
Personalized?
If personalized the choices that I thought of are:
W30OLDS, W30 442, WTHIRTY, 1970W30, OLDSW30,  442 W30,  70 W30,or  just W30.
Car is a 1970 442 W-30 conv.  What do you think?  David OCA #30416

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:35:45 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: 1985 442

On Monday, September 21, 1998 8:19 PM, Doug Newman [SMTP:newmand@wcbi.com]
wrote:
>
> We don't need no STEENKING book value!  (Sorry, guys, but I get a little
> worked up when I hear "book value" quotes on ANY Olds, not just the G
> body 442's.)  The question is, what's it worth to YOU?  Or a collector?

You got it, Doug!  Bluebook value says just about nothing about the "real"
value of a particular car.  I'm sure that most of our Oldses are worth MUCH
more to us than a simple book states!

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:37:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Nathyn M. Knipe" <nmknipe@mailbox.syr.edu>
Subject: Re: Hurst Shifter For Sale

sorry guys.....selling the shifter out of Williamsport PA.......

On Mon, 21 Sep 1998, Ray Costanzo wrote:

> Hey!  Didn't you read the lecture about saying where you are when you're
> selling stuff!
>
> Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
>                         Bucks County, PA
> On Mon, 21 Sep 1998 13:56:34 -0400 (EDT) "Nathyn M. Knipe"
> <nmknipe@mailbox.syr.edu> writes:
> >I have a Hurst Quater Stick for a TH350 transmission, and i would
> >imagine
> >it would fit a TH400 also....i have everything for it including an
> >aluminum cover for it too....make offer....Nathyn  email me personnaly
> >at
> >nmknipe@syr.edu
> >
> >
>
> _____________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:45:05 EDT
From: JCRASH7@aol.com
Subject: Re: White smoke (and tranny clicking noise)

> Need more info, pure white smoke "water",
>  cracked block or head. But unlikely, bluish white smoke, "oil", cracked or
>  busted ring, or piston, normally, but an exception to every rule.

Cracked block?!  I hope not!  The smoke originated today when trying another
"burnout", this time with a friend watching holding a camera.  This time, I
couldn't get the car to do it, and I asked my friend if he saw anything, he
said there is smoke coming from your exhaust.  I put the car in park and had a
look for myself.  Pure white smoke coming out in puffs.

Also, before I even moved the car, I put the car in "drive", and noticed a
clicking sound.  The sound was there in any gear, but went away at higher
RPM's.

Delta's really actin' funny lately...

- -------------------------
Joe Sherbanenko
jcrash7@aol.com
http://members.tripod.com/~jcrash7
- -------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:00:45 -0700
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator or Battery

- -----Original Message-----
From: Johnson, Sam <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
To: 'Oldsmobile' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 1:04 PM
Subject: Alternator or Battery


>Over the weekend my 94 Cav was going  crazy again.  I had my car in park
and
>the speedometer was going up and down.  It went from 0 to 100 and back to
0.
>And this is with the car in park.  The emergency break idiot light was on
>along with the ABS idiot light too. I shut the car off and now it want
>start.  Can anyone please tell me what the problem might be?
I'm having the same problem with a 97 Grand Am company car. The tach will
bury at 8k and the speedo will vary all over the map. The temp gauge and gas
gauge are also invilved in the "schizoid dance".
==============================================
Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================
List Removal & Guidelines
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 21:01:53 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Fw: EGR Drill

Jay - I'm reposting this in case your e-mail was down when I sent it.


>Please let me know how it goes.  If I can't fix it via the timing this
>weekend, I might try the manifold drill next.
>
Hope you had better luck than I did Jason.

Took the Quadraslurp off my 307 Sat and checked those EGR tubes for
blockage. Expected to find at least some carbon buildup, but nooOOoo. Clean
as a whistle. 140,000 miles and they still shine like the top of my head.
<sigh>

Motor still pings (or knocks, whatever is the correct term) at low throttle.
Sometimes.

BTW don't be intimidated by removing the carb - it's really simple. Just
mark the vacuum hoses with masking tape so you can put them back where they
came from.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 19:59:27 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: License plate choice

David,
It's going to be tough to get what you want, probably easier with classic
plates. I'm in Illinois, sent in about 50 picks before I got one that was
acceptable, still don't really like it. will try again this winter. Kept
getting replies" That one is already in use" Hell, can't be that many OLD
Oldsmobiles in Illinois. Now if the Sec. of State was my brother in law,
who knows.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
67 442 all orig.
75 CS same way

- ----------
> From: DKlauber@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: License plate choice
> Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 7:28 PM
>
> Getting the car registered tomorrow.  Deciding on Classic Plates or
> Personalized?
> If personalized the choices that I thought of are:
> W30OLDS, W30 442, WTHIRTY, 1970W30, OLDSW30,  442 W30,  70 W30,or  just
W30.
> Car is a 1970 442 W-30 conv.  What do you think?  David OCA #30416

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1497
*********************************
