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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1489


oldsmobile-digest    Thursday, September 17 1998    Volume 01 : Number 1489



parts for sale
Re: members.tripod Super Olds
Re: '68 Disk Brake M/C (Again)
Fall Charlotte Swap Meet
Re: still overheating
70-72 Master cyl. Quest for better brakes
Re: 69 442 Convertible; rrealworld@aol.com
Olds list opinion wanted
Re: still overheating
RE: Installing Drip Moldings
Best way to paint a semicircle?
14" wheels with discs?
Re: Another Overheating Question!
What Parts for a fuel line?
Re: Parts interchange from an 84 t-type
Re: Olds list opinion wanted
Re: Installing Drip Moldings
Rug & Carpet for sale
Re: Overheating, PLEASE HE/_P!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Return to a recent subject  Charley?... (Re: 80's G-Body Part Needed.)
How to go at A/c heater core?
TH-200 swap
Re: Return to a recent subject  Charley?... (Re: 80's G-Body Part Needed.)
Re: Parts interchange from an 84 t-type
Another ? and Thanks Charley... (was: 80's G-Body Part Needed.)
Re: Return to a recent subject  Charley?... (Re: 80's G-Body Part Needed.)
Re: Another ? and Thanks Charley... (was: 80's G-Body Part Needed.)
Re: Another Overheating Question!
'72 98 4dr FS/ SoCal
Re: TH-200 swap
W31 and W30 455
Re: still overheating
Tires for Sale
V8 Diesel 260CuInch (4.3l) olds engine
Re: alternator wire, snip snip
Re: alternator wire, snip snip
Re: Pinstripe Question
Re: car prob?? was Re: Kane County, IL show & swap & car prob??
Re: What Parts for a fuel line?
Re: 1968,  &  70-72 Master cylinders
running boards
Which Converter?
running boards
Re: Engine bog
Re: G-body radiator/last year for the 350
sub out a 47 Olds with a G-body chassis
Re: Best way to paint a semicircle?
Re: Olds list opinion wanted
Re: Olds list opinion wanted
Re: 69 442 Convertible; rrealworld@aol.com
Re: Olds list opinion wanted
Re: Tires for Sale
RE: tapitity tap  ........
Re: Rug & Carpet for sale
h*lp
Re: W31 and W30 455
RE: h*lp
Re: running boards
RE: Parts interchange from an 84 t-type
RE: Parts interchange from an 84 t-type

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 23:08:00 -0400
From: Jim Olson <jolson@remcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: parts for sale

Ok people,

Here's a list of parts I have left. Email me personally for pics or to
make an offer.

1977-79 Olds 350 and trans - runs strong even though it has a gimpy
exhaust valve in the #1 cylinder

1983 Olds 307 engine and trans - runs pretty good, trans seems weak

1985 Cutlass
        Factory gauge package
        Complete interior (blue) ask for pics if interested
        Console and shifter (w/cable)
        Very heavy duty front sway bar
        Front clip (complete except radiator)
        Front and rear bumpers
        Deck lid
        T-Tops

By the way, I'll trade the both motors and trans for a GOOD Chevy 350
and trans

Jim...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 20:28:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: members.tripod Super Olds

- ---Ray Costanzo <rocket409@juno.com> wrote:
>
> Someone sent an address that was something or other SuperOlds.
> Well, according to Compuserve, the address doesn't exist!
>
> Same with someone's address that has g-body guage swap info!

- ---Uh...I'm the guilty party....you can find a link on my home page.
         I THINK I exist...maybe not :)
        SMAN
 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds
==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 23:50:45 EDT
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: '68 Disk Brake M/C (Again)

I need more info  please

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 23:52:43 -0400
From: "Jim & Joanne Chermack" <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Fall Charlotte Swap Meet

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Hey everyone

    Leaving for Charlotte early in the morning. The store will be closed =
until Monday. Hope to see some of you down there.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Hey everyone</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Leaving for Charlotte =
early in the=20
morning. The store will be closed until Monday. Hope to see some of you =
down=20
there.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Jim Chermack</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>C&amp;M Classic =
Parts</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 23:53:43 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: still overheating

>Well, I put a thermostat, no change.  I guess that is to be expected,
>because if I run at 200 with no thermostat, it'll be the same with it,
>because the thermo will just stay open, essentially the same as not >being
here, right?  Damn it...


Well.......not exactly.  Without a thermostast the water circulates too fast
therefore it doesn't stay in the rad long enough to dissipate the most heat.
T-stat acts as a restrictor to slow the flow and keep the water in the rad
longer.

Right guys?

Which brings me to this question.  What is the need for a high flow water
pump? Wouldn't the use of one of these just force water through the radiator
faster, giving it less time to cool?

Randy

P.S. Ray, I know where Villanova, Dover and Bucks county are.....
But where the heck is Hilltown?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 00:13:36 EDT
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: 70-72 Master cyl. Quest for better brakes

ok so who is going to buy a manual disk brake master with a 1'' bore and put
it on a power disk brake car. I wonder how much your travel will increase by
dropping 1/8 off of the piston size and how much easier will the pedal be.
Hmmm sounds like a job for Car Craft :) yea right!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 00:20:47 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: 69 442 Convertible; rrealworld@aol.com

DKlauber@aol.com wrote:
>
> I sent some e-mails and he responded, also called once.  I was going to look
> at the car when I was back home on vacation, but didn't get the time.  Seemed
> like a pretty nice 442 and I am not sure why the price is dropping so much.
> Can't hurt to ask him why the price keeps dropping.  Must just need the $.

What was the price down to the last you heard?  Also where is the car
located?  (Uh, I mean the town and state, not the garage, driveway,
etc.)  TIA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 00:21:20 EDT
From: JJP442@aol.com
Subject: Olds list opinion wanted

How come when someone has something for sale or trade on this list they never
say where there from? Do you assume we live around the corner from each other?
(though the thought of Oldsmobiles parked up and down the street would be
pleasing to see). I don't know how it is for the rest of the list but,
shipping is a large factor in making a purchase as far as I'm concerned. How
does everybody else feel about this? I guess I'm just trying to simplify these
transactions alittle.
John
JJP442@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 00:31:07 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: still overheating

RANDY A GEISEL wrote:
>
> Which brings me to this question.  What is the need for a high flow water
> pump? Wouldn't the use of one of these just force water through the radiator
> faster, giving it less time to cool?

Well, consider it from a racing point of view. The car's only running
for 1 min at the max. So, they don't have to worry about overheating
because the car's not running for that long, and it uses up all the cold
water in that amount of time.

Which brings me to a question, for a strip only car, is a fan even
really necessary?
- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 21:33:31 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Installing Drip Moldings

So we know from the note below that a drip molding
installation tool exists. Anyone know what it's callled?

Does Sears have 'em, Snap-On?, Mac? Where do I
find it?

cf
>
>
> Chris Fair wrote:
> >
> > Ideas? Is there a tool for this process? Some kind of reverse
> > use of a can opener (the noted drip molding remover...)?
>
> Yes, I believe there is.  Some kind of thing with two rollers.  Don't
> know what it's called or where you'd find one.
>
> Paul
> --
> Paul Hartlieb
> Myerstown, PA
> mailto:plh@nbn.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 21:35:14 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: Best way to paint a semicircle?

So the Starfire has these semicircular moldings
with a recess running the length which needs to
be painted.

Anyone know how I can get a nice clean semi
circular tape line or other block for the overspray?

Listening....

cf

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 21:39:11 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: 14" wheels with discs?

So I like the hubcaps but want disk brakes
underneath the 14" wheels. I'm guessing some
70's era GM cars had discs which fit under 14"
wheels. Any suggestions on what discs I might
swap in?

Would this reduce the brake power relative to
the big drums on the front of my 66 Starfire?
Is there less brake swept area? Any chance of
more stopping power?

Do the exotic custom solutions guys have
answers for this type of swap? Was thinking
of Baer or Wilwood mebbe.

Is this possible? I've already swapped the
98 to a disk system, but it required the 15"
wheels for a bolt in swap. Just trying to retain
that stock look for the Starfire.

Hoping for your help!
cheers,
cf

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 11:39:37 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Another Overheating Question!

FIrst make sure the thermostat is a 160* and that it is facing the right
way and is working properly. Second check the radiator, get a 4 core if
possible or an aluminum radiator. Make sure the water pump is flowing
coolant. THE THERMOSTAT FACING IN THE WRONG WAY CAN COST YOU ABOUT 30-40*.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Chris & Robin Miller <cya442@mindspring.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Another Overheating Question!
> Date: Wednesday, September 16, 1998 3:17 PM
>
>     I have a '68 442 with a 455 in it and it is running pretty warm but
> only at idle speeds, I'm talking 220 - 230 or so.  During highway speeds
> it stays around 190.  I was wondering if anyone out there has a similar
> set up and could measure how far their fan sits into the fan shroud for
> me.  It isn't running too lean, have tried different timings, replaced
> the fan clutch (from a thermal to a non-thermal), etc.  I am getting
> ready to try a flex fan with a spacer to move the fan out of the shroud
> a little but I HATE flex fans.  I may also try a pusher electric fan and
> would  like to know of any recommendations on those too.  Any help would
> be greatly appreciated.  Thanks.
>
> --
> Chris Miller
> '68 442
> San Diego, CA
> mailto:cya442@mindspring.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 21:41:35 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: What Parts for a fuel line?

Was thinking of putting in braided line
with a pressure gauge between the
Qjet and stock fuel pump on the 455
Starfire. What size line and AN fittings
should I use?  Have any of you done
this?

Also I recall a fire recently for a list member
wherein he held the glass filter from an
aftermarket supplier responsible. Did
we all finally agree that this is an attractive
but likely culprit?

TIA
cf

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 22:41:04 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Parts interchange from an 84 t-type

> Cool... I learn a new thing every day...  bet you didn't know about '84 GN's
> either.... hee hee


Actually, the 82 was the first year, correct, and they were resurrected in 84,
right???  My 83 GN is ~extremely~ rare....  1 of zero :)  Although still one of
less than 4000 Buick Turbo Regals, so I still really like it.  Someday it'll
drive again, but till then, it's still a great looking GN look-a-like...

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 00:42:22 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds list opinion wanted

In a message dated 9/16/98
 11:<BR34:<BR18 PM Central Daylight Ti, JJP442@aol.com writes:

> How come when someone has something for sale or trade on this list they
never
>  say where there from?

Hey,

I just saw an antique car advertised on rec.antique.somethingorother and the
guy didn't even give the name of the car...just Town Sedan $19,500. Talk about
exclusive clientele. He doesn't want to sell *that* car to anyone who doesn't
already know what it is!!! :-)

I too, am annoyed by an advertiser leaving off the location, etc. However,
this (internet) is a new medium, and it takes awhile for people to get used to
the fact that others are seeing the ads all the way across the globe.

Now that we have bitc*ed about it, maybe it will never happen again, eh?

Cheers/Carron

Rockford TN :-)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 00:44:30 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Installing Drip Moldings

Is this tool possibly a screen roller? A plastic or wooden handle with a wheel
at either end, as if a double-ended pizza cutter?

Carron

In a message dated 9/16/98
 11:<BR39:<BR10 PM Central Daylight Ti, cfair@FairIsaac.com writes:

> So we know from the note below that a drip molding
>  installation tool exists. Anyone know what it's callled?
>
>  Does Sears have 'em, Snap-On?, Mac? Where do I
>  find it?
>

>  > Chris Fair wrote:
>  > >
>  > > Ideas? Is there a tool for this process? Some kind of reverse
>  > > use of a can opener (the noted drip molding remover...)?
>  >
>  > Yes, I believe there is.  Some kind of thing with two rollers.  Don't
>  > know what it's called or where you'd find one.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 21:46:53 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: Rug & Carpet for sale

Anybody need a red B or C body mid 60's
rug? I bought this color thinking I'd redo the
starfire in red carpet as was. Then we elected
the change the interior over to parchment (offwhite)
and black carpet.

So it was never installed and available to You.

So I have about 8 yards (that's a lot...) plus a front
and rear carpet for a fullsize Olds from say 64-69
or 70. Was bought for my 66 Starfire so I know it
fits 65-66, but should work fine for big cars from
early 60's to early 70's, I'd guess.

offers? I'm in the SF Bay Area so locals would
be welcome to come pick it up.

cf

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 11:45:54 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Overheating, PLEASE HE/_P!!!!!!!!!!!!!

you stated that it shouldn't go above 150*. That is TOO cool. The car
should run about 180* for proper combustion. 180-200 sounds about right for
an 87 307, especially for emmisions. I wouldn't worry about. ITS FINE!!!
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Ray Costanzo <rocket409@juno.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Overheating, PLEASE HE/_P!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> Date: Tuesday, September 15, 1998 6:14 PM
>
> I cannot figure this out!
> My car is an 87 Cutlass Supreme.  It has in it a built 403, cooled by the
> original radiotor, a 307 car one.
> The damn thing is running hotter than it should.  It is now running
> between 180 and 200, depending on if I am on the highway or in town.
> This is the temp with no thermostat.  It shouldn't go above 150 or maybe
> 160 w/o the thermo.  here's what I've done and checked...
>
> Completely flushed radiator and block with cleaner and high pressure
> rinse, in both directions of flow.
> Checked plugs, no sign of rust, to indicate coolant in combustion
> chamber,
> Checked oil, so sign of water mixing in.
> No signs of cracked head or gasket in any way.
> No loss of coolant anywhere.
> Water pump is very new, as is fan clutch.
> Fan spins straight and fast.
> Coolant seems to flow through entire system unrestricted when i run a
> hose through it.
> Radiator appears to be undented, and no squirrels are stuck to the front
> of it.
>
> What else can I check?  I really think the radiator is screwed, or just
> insufficient to cool the 403, especially with 10.5:1 comp.
> ANY ideas?
>
> Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
>                         Bucks County, PA
>
> _____________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 00:47:18 EDT
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Return to a recent subject  Charley?... (Re: 80's G-Body Part 
Needed.)

In a message dated 9/7/98 1:47:28 AM Central Daylight Time, buehner@lyrea.com
writes:

> > No...  It's been his since day one..  <G> But like I mentioned, it's
>  > "Pro-Street" meaning, 425 Bored over, Mondello Heads, ported and matched
>
>  WHOA!!!!!!!!!!!  Stop right there!  Yes, indeed these cars ~did~ come with
>  non-AC versions.  But, the AC box and heater box were both quite different.
> The
>  non-AC'd cars will ~not~ accept a big block.  The heater core-only box
takes
> up
>  the space that would otherwise be occupied by a valve cover...   If mods
are
>  desired, he could butcher things to fit, but he could do that with the AC
> box.
>  I think the heater box was metal, too.  AC version is all fiberglass.
> Lighter.
>
>  BTW, I personally ~saw~ one of these non-AC cars.  An 80 W30, no less.
> WITHOUT
>  AC!!!  Go figure :(
>
>  --
>  Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner


OK, I had asked the question how sure people were about this (that non-A/C
cars will >not< fit a big block).  I didn't catch a reply from anyone (at
least that I saw), so I'm asking again....  Charley, I take it you've tried
this one before, or know of it for some reason?  I'm curious to find this one
out since I have a '70 455, and an '81 that is non-A/C, and this would screw
up some plans (only slightly..., guess I >do< need that '86-'87 model, and in
better condition...).

Thanks,
Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 21:49:25 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: How to go at A/c heater core?

On the starfire, for preparedness, I'm going to
install the new heater core. Do I go at this
problem from the engine or interior side of
the firewall?

I think it's the interior, but open to your ideas.

(missing my service manual...)

cf

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 01:05:48 -0400
From: "jhb" <jburris1@bellsouth.net>
Subject: TH-200 swap

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I've got a 87 Cutlass Supreme Brhm with a TH-200 (not overdrive) bolted =
to a 307. Working on a rebuild for the 307. Question is: the Qlds FAQ =
mentions a TH200-4R to TH400 swap. How much different is the =
non-overdrive tranny from the OD? Can the TH400 bolt into my car like =
the swap notes for the 4R say? Or should I go for a 700-4R? This car is =
not pushed, we use it for cruising and long trips only (Read - the only =
time this car gets punched is passing some yutz in a C**vy on I-75). =
Thanks.

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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I've got a 87 Cutlass Supreme Brhm with a TH-200 =
(not=20
overdrive) bolted to a 307. Working on a rebuild for the 307. Question =
is: the=20
Qlds FAQ mentions a TH200-4R to TH400 swap. How much different is the=20
non-overdrive tranny from the OD? Can the TH400 bolt into my car like =
the swap=20
notes for the 4R say? Or should I go for a 700-4R? This car is not =
pushed, we=20
use it for cruising and long trips only (Read - the only time this car =
gets=20
punched is passing some yutz in a C**vy on I-75).=20
Thanks.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 22:56:39 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Return to a recent subject  Charley?... (Re: 80's G-Body Part
Needed.)

> I take it you've tried this one before, or know of it for some reason?  I'm
> curious to find this one out since I have a '70 455, and an '81 that is
> non-A/C, and this would screw up some plans (only slightly..., guess
> I >do< need that '86-'87 model, and in better condition...)

Actually, no, I haven't tried it.  I've done the swap with AC, but not without.
I've ~seen~ the heater box on the ~non~ AC cars, and it looks ~way~ too tight.
The ~big block~ valve cover sits out like 1n inch or so farther out, and almost
an inch higher.  I know it's a ~close~ call there, but I've heard it won't fit.
Feel free to try, and you can probably correct the interference problem with a
hammer...  :)  Best luck, and if you ~do~ make it work, tell all!  :)  Or, find
a parts car (millions of AC'd G-bodies in junk yards...  4 dr will work too...)
and grab the AC box.  Us it, sealing off the EVAP openings...  Might work.  Or
convert to AC :)  Don't know much about the non-AC'd cars, so I can't say for
sure what all's involved.

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 23:02:48 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Parts interchange from an 84 t-type

> Bet you didn't know about '84 GN's either.... hee hee

Oh yeah...  and aren't they supposed to be ~silver~ too???  :)


- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
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     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 01:06:24 EDT
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Another ? and Thanks Charley... (was: 80's G-Body Part Needed.)

OK, I've got another question for everyone out there.  I know people have
talked in the past about the heater on a G body leaking into the car.  I've
got the classic symptom (water dripping onto the floor mat on the passenger
side.  I'm sure someone else knows what needs to be done to fix this problem.
Any suggestions?...

Thanks,
Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 01:09:50 EDT
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Return to a recent subject  Charley?... (Re: 80's G-Body Part
Needed.)

In a message dated 9/17/98 12:01:06 AM Central Daylight Time,
buehner@lyrea.com writes:

> > I take it you've tried this one before, or know of it for some reason?
I'm
>
>  > curious to find this one out since I have a '70 455, and an '81 that is
>  > non-A/C, and this would screw up some plans (only slightly..., guess
>  > I >do< need that '86-'87 model, and in better condition...)
>
>  Actually, no, I haven't tried it.  I've done the swap with AC, but not
> without.
>  I've ~seen~ the heater box on the ~non~ AC cars, and it looks ~way~ too
> tight.
>  The ~big block~ valve cover sits out like 1n inch or so farther out, and
> almost
>  an inch higher.  I know it's a ~close~ call there, but I've heard it won't
> fit.
>  Feel free to try, and you can probably correct the interference problem
with
> a
>  hammer...  :)  Best luck, and if you ~do~ make it work, tell all!  :)  Or,
> find
>  a parts car (millions of AC'd G-bodies in junk yards...  4 dr will work
too..
> .)
>  and grab the AC box.  Us it, sealing off the EVAP openings...  Might work.
> Or
>  convert to AC :)  Don't know much about the non-AC'd cars, so I can't say
> for
>  sure what all's involved.
>
>  --
>  Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner

I guess I'll just have to do some checking before going too far into the
project.  I know there is a metal cover over my heater area, but I'm not sure
just how much space this takes up.  I'll check into it more, and report back
on what I find....  Course, the idea of replacing mine with an '87 (with the
nice wraparound/molded in composite headlights) has a nice appeal to it.
Guess that would solve the problem for good (won't get another w/out air,
besides I'd probably have to look for one w/out it... hard...).

Thanks,
Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 23:18:50 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Another ? and Thanks Charley... (was: 80's G-Body Part Needed.)

> talked in the past about the heater on a G body leaking into the car.

Couple possibilities.  One, heater core's shot.  Two, heater hose clamp(s) are
not tightenned down completely.  That's about it, for the heater.  The
possibility exists, on AC cars, for the EVAP case's drain hole ~could~ be
plugged and moisture is leaking in...  Doubtful, but ~possible~ if it's only
~water~ coming in.  Most likely a heater core problem, though.  If it ~only~
leaks when the car is washed, or it rains, there's other possibilities openned
up, like a cracked heater case, faulty/missing door harness grommet/plug,
windshield leaks, etc...

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
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    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 23:23:30 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Another Overheating Question!

Chris,
my temperatures are exactly the same.  I run a 180 deg. HI-FLO thermostat
and will try 160.  Had a guy who know lots about oldses (and I trust him)
look at fan shroud and stuff and said it was okay.  The car is being painted
now so I can't drive it yet.  PLEASE, let me know how the flex fan or
electric fans work out for you.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency 98 (307/th200r4/propane)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris & Robin Miller <cya442@mindspring.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, September 16, 1998 2:56 PM
Subject: Another Overheating Question!


>    I have a '68 442 with a 455 in it and it is running pretty warm but
>only at idle speeds, I'm talking 220 - 230 or so.  During highway speeds
>it stays around 190.  I was wondering if anyone out there has a similar
>set up and could measure how far their fan sits into the fan shroud for
>me.  It isn't running too lean, have tried different timings, replaced
>the fan clutch (from a thermal to a non-thermal), etc.  I am getting
>ready to try a flex fan with a spacer to move the fan out of the shroud
>a little but I HATE flex fans.  I may also try a pusher electric fan and
>would  like to know of any recommendations on those too.  Any help would
>be greatly appreciated.  Thanks.
>
>--
>Chris Miller
>'68 442
>San Diego, CA
>mailto:cya442@mindspring.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 01:24:20 EDT
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: '72 98 4dr FS/ SoCal

Listers-
in my travels today found a car that may be of interest to someone. Butter
yellow '72 98 4dr, Gold brocade int, E-head 455 with duals and cold air. Wire
wheel type caps. Looked very original and nice, showing 76K on odo. The owner
is asking $2200.
If anybody is interested I'll be glad to forward you a phone #or other info.

No affiliation, etc..

Peter
CoupeKing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 01:44:36 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: TH-200 swap

jhb wrote:
>
> I've got a 87 Cutlass Supreme Brhm with a TH-200 (not overdrive)
> bolted to a 307. Working on a rebuild for the 307. Question is: the
> Qlds FAQ mentions a TH200-4R to TH400 swap. How much different is the
> non-overdrive tranny from the OD?

The overdrive tranny's rear mount is closer to the rear of the case than
the non-overdrive.  In fact, the distance between the rear mount and the
bellhousing is almost the same as the TH400.  I think the overdrive and
non-overdrive 200s are the same overall legnth.

 Can the TH400 bolt into my car like
> the swap notes for the 4R say? Or should I go for a 700-4R?

Can't say exactly how the swap would go, but I'm guessing you'll need to
shorten the driveshaft and move the crossmember back.

Unless you already have a TH400, need a transmission in your car, and
don't have any money, using the TH400 is a relatively bad idea.  Unless
you're looking to put in a 455 soon, the TH400 is overkill.  It's more
transmission than an 87 cutlass with a 307 will ever need.  A TH350
would be a much better choice;  It goes in with no modification, it's
~much~ lighter than a TH400, and will stand up to any abuse a 307 can
dish out.  I'd stay away from the 7004R altogether.  It would need an
adaptor plate since it's a chevy-only bolt pattern.  It's also longer
than any of the other GM automatic trannies.  If you did use it odds are
you'll need to put in a lower rearend gear before you notice any
signifigant performance or economy improvements with it.

Hope I was of some help.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 00:00:46 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: W31 and W30 455

All right you W-30 owners.  I was looking at lunati Olds cam page
considering which cam to get.  I am curious what kind of powerband did W30s
have and at what RPMs were shifts made.  Also, what kind of streetability
did you have.  For the W-31 owners same question.  I have stated my engine
specs befoure so I wan't do it again.  It is a 455, 10.1 CR, ported/plished
J heads, dual exaust, 12 inch converter, 3.23s.  I like these cams cause
they sound good, and their lift is not high so I should be able to use them
with stock valvetrain.  So which would be better, W-30 or W-31 cam.  What do
you recomend.  Would just like to hear from someone who has driven cars with
these cams.  Igor.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency 98 (307/th200r4/propane)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 01:57:37 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: still overheating

>Which brings me to a question, for a strip only car, is a fan even
>really necessary?
>--
Matt,

My friend runs a 70 Plymouth Duster Bracket car. 440 cid, burns alcohol and
runs mid 9's in the 1/4. His electric fan and water pump are hooked to a
toggle switch. He only uses the fan and pump to keep the car up to temp. He
likes to stage at 180 degrees and by the time he's through the traps, it's
up to 200 or so and he flips on the fan and pump, otherwise he's up to 230
or 240 by the time he's down the return road and back in the pits. He shuts
down the car but leaves the fan and pump running a few minutes longer.
FWIW,gas  burning engines run hotter than alcohol burning engines.

That probably didn't answer your question, but I haven't seen a strip car
without a fan yet.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 22:40:52 -0500
From: "John Kreitzer" <john.kreitzer@gte.net>
Subject: Tires for Sale

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BDE1C3.0EF12940
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi Guys,=20

I've got 4 Uniroyal Ralleye GTS Raised White Letter tires For Sale. Size =
P235-60/14
These things are like new, 4000 miles on them at most. I paid $75 ea. =
when new, well let go for $40 ea. plus shipping. E-mail me back =
personally if interested.

Thanks,
John

- ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BDE1C3.0EF12940
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3509.100"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#d8d0c8>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hi Guys, </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I've got 4 Uniroyal Ralleye GTS Raised White Letter =
tires For=20
Sale. Size P235-60/14<BR>These things are like new, 4000 miles on them =
at most.=20
I paid $75 ea. when new, well let go for $40 ea. plus shipping. E-mail =
me back=20
personally if interested.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>John</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BDE1C3.0EF12940--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 08:28:15 -0700
From: cape1022 <klot@klot.co.za>
Subject: V8 Diesel 260CuInch (4.3l) olds engine

Since reading about the existance of this engine I have been trying to get hold
of a complete one - any suggestions (The fact that I live in South Africa does
seem to make it even more difficult).

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 03:01:29 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: alternator wire, snip snip

Ray,

 the wire you cut is for the idiot light.
 No sweat.

Kevin.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 01:07:54 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: alternator wire, snip snip

>  the wire you cut is for the idiot light.
>  No sweat.

Uh oh...  Here I go stepping in on the middle of a thread....  (That's what I
get for working...)  Umm, several alternators ~rely~ on the idiot light to
excite the alternator, i.e. get it to ~start~ charging.   I don't know what the
prior posts had included, but there may, in fact, be  a reason to "sweat" after
all...  ???  Maybe?

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 03:24:10 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Pinstripe Question

Joe and Tony,
Stripes must have been an option...

Lou Biggs
___________

Yep, that's correct.  Option code Y70.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 03:21:26 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: car prob?? was Re: Kane County, IL show & swap & car prob??

 The crap in the float bowl (if it doesn't come from the
gas tank itself) is from fuel evaporating inthe bowl itself.  It has
nothing
to do with the gas somehow "mixing" or interacting with the material inside
the float bowl.
____________

That's not entirely true, Chris.  In the case of the two Q-jets I had to
scrap, the metal of the float bowl area was flaking and bubbling up - the
debris was most definitely being generated inside the float bowl.  What I
don't know is if this was some phenomena due to the cars sitting for an
excessive period of time (like a layer of water condensed inside the float
bowl and corroded the metal) or if the metal was attacked by an additive in
the gas (for example, the additive they use to create the "oxygenated fuel"
which is sold in major metro areas in the winter).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 03:37:53 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: What Parts for a fuel line?

Was thinking of putting in braided line
with a pressure gauge between the
Qjet and stock fuel pump on the 455
Starfire. What size line and AN fittings
should I use?  Have any of you done
this?
_________

The most common braided fuel line is -6, which is equivalent to 3/8" hose.
- -8 would be 1/2" hose.  Note that the dash number is the hose size in 16ths
of an inch (-6 = 6/16 = 3/8; -8 = 8/16 = 1/2).  Most of the adapter AN
fittings you'll need to mate to your stock fuel pump and carb will be -6
size.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 21:35:30 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: 1968,  &  70-72 Master cylinders

If you can send me a picture
I may have one

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)


- ----------
> From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 1968,  &  70-72 Master cylinders
> Date: Wednesday, September 16, 1998 6:01 PM
>
> Speaking about master Cylinders,
>
> Does anyone out there know what is the proper master cylinder for my 68
> Hurst/Olds?   Also  does anyone here know where I can buy one??  I want
an
> original,  not an aftermarket.
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Vinny

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 07:51:08 -0400
From: "Zambotti, Les" <lzambotti@idlpop.com>
Subject: running boards

I am new to this list, and would like any informatoin on a 1937 f-37
four door sedan. I am in the process of restoring this car.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 06:44:59 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Which Converter?

I am trying and also wondering which converter would be better for my 455
application.  I have a choice of a 3000 stall converter or a 3500 stall
converter.  I have a 2400 in my car now.
My Olds 455 is bored 30 over. It's got 10 ¼ 1 pistons in it. It's got a cam
that is 224 intake 234 exhaust at .050 Lift is .496 intake .520 exhaust.

Please help

======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
20 Wins 13 Losses 1Tie
======================

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 07:57:00 -0400
From: "Zambotti, Les" <lzambotti@idlpop.com>
Subject: running boards

I am in the process of replacing the rubber running board covers on my
37 olds. I would like to know what kind of adhesive I should use that
will allow me to position it before the adhesive sets up.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 07:40:57 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Engine bog

All my prior boggin problems turned out to be caused by timing.  Play
around with that.

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

On Wed, 16 Sep 1998 09:36:42 -0400 Andy Mikesell
<andymikesell@mediaone.net> writes:
>I recently replaced my carb, points, and vacuum advance.  The rebuilt
>Rochester 2 bbl carb was tuned at a local shop.  The engine was
>running
>fine, but a bog / stall has started occurring and recently is much
>worse.  Any ideas to what could be causing this?
>
>The bogging occurs at the top of the shift (1-2, 2-3) under light load
>and upon acceleration between 5-10 mph.  Bog does not occur under WOT.
>
>Is it a bad carb rebuild?  Something much different?  Any ideas?
>
>Thanks - Andy
>
>

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 07:39:07 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: G-body radiator/last year for the 350

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

On
>
>And, I haven't been following the thread closely, but you were worried
>that
>200 was hot?  Just as a reference, my 307 runs at 210-215 normally and
>around 225 at the max.  Boil-over temperature is around 260, so
>anything
>around 220 or lower should be perfectly fine.  Are you worried about
>it

Yeah, I know I'm not running too  hot or anything, I'm just concerned
because it's running at a temperature not typical for my engine and the
particular conditions.  I know that the temp wil keep going up over time,
unlessI figure out what's causing this gradual rise.  Plus if I ran it at
220 all the time, I'd have to put racing gas in it!  don't want to do
that!
>

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 08:13:32 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: sub out a 47 Olds with a G-body chassis

Listers,

below is a message I sent to Joe P. about my planned project, in response to a
message he had sent about g-frames. For a while now, I have been planning a
"retro-rod" suing a post war torpedo bodied 2 dr sedannette. Someone on the
list kindly notified me of a magazine series doing exactly that conversion. I
would appreciate comments or advice on some questions below. I have left a
snip from Joe's message in the text.

> Glad I was able to help.  Obviously, the 455 and trans will be coming from
>  a different car than the frame.  Be careful with selecting a frame, as I
>  understand that the G-body cars are notorious for having the rear portion
>  of the frame rust out.

OK, Joe,

I am serious about putting a post-war Olds (*could end up being a ch**y, but I
hope not) on a modern sub-chassis with a big engine. I've already found 3
potential subject cars.

1. Are there particular G-body chassis that I should avoid or is just a matter
of "check carefully before buying": in other words, BOP or C or C are just as
likely to be rusted.

2. Are there particular engines and trans that are easier conversions to G-
chassis? I want a big engine for torque...I will not likely hot-rod it, at
least at first. I am thinking that a post 70 455 would be best as it was made
for no-lead and has low CR. Are there preferable ones in that group?

3. Is there a particular transmission that will livbe longer under the torque
of a mild mod 455, or will whatever trans I find bolted to a 455 do the trick?

4. Am I stretching too far with the 455...in other words, is the 403 just as
good for this application *and* easier to install/find, etc.?

5. Is it likely that I could drop such a body...say a '47 Olds 2 dr... onto a
complete Toro running chassis? I mean making a FWD rod. That would in some
ways be the easiest if it would fit. As a matter of fact, I have found a '71
Toro that could be a daily driver and then become the donor car. I am guessing
that there isn't enough room between the '47 Olds fender wells for the Toro
power package to fit.

TIA for your advice and help.

Cheers/Don Carron

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 08:19:41 -0400
From: "George & Joan C. Lesperance" <gal1@MNSi.Net>
Subject: Re: Best way to paint a semicircle?

Hi Chris:  Try with the butcher paper or plastic, - the butcher paper is
coated on one side with a wax of plastic material - and get some plastic
tape - in Canada we can buy it a the drug store but for large amout of
tape try a hospital supply store - something along that line.
This should help with the semicirle, overspray - if you take the plastic
tape off right after you put the paint on - allow a few minutes to set -
you should not have the tape marks either since the plastic tape will
stick with a gentle touch (no oil or water under it) and will lift
without leaving a mark.  Just a suggestion.  Good Luck!

Joan

Chris Fair wrote:

> So the Starfire has these semicircular moldings
> with a recess running the length which needs to
> be painted.
>
> Anyone know how I can get a nice clean semi
> circular tape line or other block for the overspray?
>
> Listening....
>
> cf

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 08:25:34 -0400
From: Jim Olson <jolson@remcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Olds list opinion wanted

Sorry John...

My parts are in Central Michigan.

Jim...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 08:25:43 -0400
From: "George & Joan C. Lesperance" <gal1@MNSi.Net>
Subject: Re: Olds list opinion wanted

Sometimes it would be nice just to know how far this list has taken us.  I know
in Canada and the U.S. but where in these countries and where else - One form
Norway the other night - that was nice to know.  The information is very
informative and interesting.  Just my opinion.                   Talk to you
later. Joan



JJP442@aol.com wrote:

> How come when someone has something for sale or trade on this list they never
> say where there from? Do you assume we live around the corner from each 
other?
> (though the thought of Oldsmobiles parked up and down the street would be
> pleasing to see). I don't know how it is for the rest of the list but,
> shipping is a large factor in making a purchase as far as I'm concerned. How
> does everybody else feel about this? I guess I'm just trying to simplify 
these
> transactions alittle.
> John
> JJP442@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 08:41:05 EDT
From: DKlauber@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 442 Convertible; rrealworld@aol.com

First $8500 is what it says on Bryceman's page.  Car is in Denver, CO.  I
think he started in the low teens, and has gradually lowered it.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 08:44:33 EDT
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds list opinion wanted

In a message dated 9/17/98 12:34:18 AM Eastern Daylight Time, JJP442@aol.com
writes:

<<
 How come when someone has something for sale or trade on this list they never
 say where there from? Do you assume we live around the corner from each
other?
 (though the thought of Oldsmobiles parked up and down the street would be
 pleasi >>


     I feel it should be an automatic requirement to state where the 'For
Sale' item is. Distance is a factor in anything you want to buy so PLEASE
WHERE IS IT????


Everett   OCA# 1961   1961  Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 08:55:23 -0400
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@pa.net>
Subject: Re: Tires for Sale

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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John :

Where are you located?
Location and Email address are helpful in posts.
This helps interested parties to respond privately
and to respond with location in mind.

I am interested

Ken Swick
swickka@pa.net

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
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<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>John :</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Where are you located?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Location and Email address are =
helpful in=20
posts.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>This helps interested parties to =
respond=20
privately</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>and to respond with location in=20
mind.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I am interested</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Ken Swick<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:swickka@pa.net">swickka@pa.net</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HT=
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Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 08:55:03 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: tapitity tap  ........

Look for lack of oil pressure after warm up.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Patton [SMTP:patton@ComCAT.COM]
> Sent:	Wednesday, September 16, 1998 7:07 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	tapitity tap  ........
>
>
> List,
>         I went to see/hear a 70' 350 powered Cutlass today. The owner
> complained of a valve tap - UNDERSTATEMENT  !!!!.......
>
>         Now the odd part - when it is first started it is quit  - after
> warm
> up
> it sounds as if all 16 lifters are chattering - stock TRW lifters - stock
> rockers and mounts ........  any ideas  ??????
>
>
> Tanks
> The General

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 09:03:45 -0400
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@pa.net>
Subject: Re: Rug & Carpet for sale

I am interested in the 8 yards of red rug
Sorry for returning to list with this.

i am in PA and would pay shipping.

Quote price Chris.

Ken Swick
swickka@pa.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 09:15:43 -0400
From: "Eckart, Douglas A. SFC" <eckartd@emh.gordon.army.mil>
Subject: h*lp

I have a problem with excessive heat and low engine vaccumfor some time now
and cannot find information to correct this problem.
Here are the basics:  69 400 engine with 126K, re-ringed at 98K, and has a
Isky 256 supercam, Q-Jet, stock manifolds, auto trans.
I believe the heat and low vaccum are related.  My vaccum gage constantly
reads 15'  no matter what I do, and continues with a rough idle.  Yesterday
I installed a gm HEI from a 75 Toro with the Moroso advance kit, silver
springs. I set the engine to TDC, and when I finally got the thing to run,
the timing was so far advanced it was funny! (never had this happen before).
Reset timing to 8 BTC @ 850 and vaccum still reads 15 or lower.  What gives?
Printed info is limited as is competent help.  Thanks for your time. Doug.



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 08:17:40 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: W31 and W30 455

I don't have a W-30, but I am running a W-30, manual transmission style cam
(.474 lift, 320 degrees duration) in my car.  I have 3.42 gears, four speed,
headers, and a Holley Street Dominator single plane intake.  It comes on
strong from 3000 rpm to the redline of 5500 and sounds real nasty  at idle.
It will turn 5500 in fourth gear which is right at 130 mph if my math is
correct.  That is the good news.  The bad news is, around town the car is
somewhat of a pain in the *ss to drive with that set up.  Bottom end is almost
nonexistent, I have to keep the idle high to provide vacuum for the power
brakes, 1/8 mile ET's are slower than they used to be with a stock engine, you
either bog it or blow the tires off, sometimes if you slip the clutch just
right you can get it to leave fairly well.  I am guessing 1/4 mile times are
better due to the hard top end charge the car now has, but I never ran it on
the 1/4 with the other engine.  To be fair, I would assume the original intake
would bring back some of the bottom end I have now lost, 3.91 gears would be
an improvement and a set of slicks (gear change required) would help the drag
racing.  I will go to a Competition Cams cam for my next engine which will be
stock appearing and very driveable.  I would not run another W-30 cam unless
it was the automatic style with less duration and it was my only choice.
There are better cams available as the old W cams are 30 year old technology.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2 (AKA Old Lumpy)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 09:31:34 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: h*lp

You need to provide more detail on that Isky 256 supercam. If the duration
is too long that might explain your problem. Especially the rough idle and
poor vacuum.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Eckart, Douglas A. SFC [SMTP:eckartd@emh.gordon.army.mil]
> Sent:	Thursday, September 17, 1998 9:16 AM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	h*lp
>
> I have a problem with excessive heat and low engine vaccumfor some time
> now
> and cannot find information to correct this problem.
> Here are the basics:  69 400 engine with 126K, re-ringed at 98K, and has a
> Isky 256 supercam, Q-Jet, stock manifolds, auto trans.
> I believe the heat and low vaccum are related.  My vaccum gage constantly
> reads 15'  no matter what I do, and continues with a rough idle.
> Yesterday
> I installed a gm HEI from a 75 Toro with the Moroso advance kit, silver
> springs. I set the engine to TDC, and when I finally got the thing to run,
> the timing was so far advanced it was funny! (never had this happen
> before).
> Reset timing to 8 BTC @ 850 and vaccum still reads 15 or lower.  What
> gives?
> Printed info is limited as is competent help.  Thanks for your time. Doug.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 08:30:38 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: running boards

In days gone by when replacing a vinyl top I have used Formica counter top
adhesive.  You coated both parts, the vinyl and the roof, waited for them both
to become slightly tacky almost dry, then you could position the vinyl on the
roof.  It would stick a little, but you could pull it apart.  Once you were
satisfied with the position, you take your hand and push down on the vinyl.
The pressure would set the two parts and a team of 455's could not separate
them.  The trick is not to apply any pressure during the positioning stage.  I
am sure there are better vinyl top adhesives available now, but this is a good
standby if you can't find something better.  You need a low solvent type of
adhesive so you don't trap escaping solvents under the non breathable rubber.
Check with a local trim shop, not an upholstery shop that does furniture, but
a real trim shop that works on cars and trucks.  They can help you get the
best adhesive.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

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Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 07:57:51 -0600
From: Arnold Alvin TSgt <ARNOLDA@SCHRIEVER.af.mil>
Subject: RE: Parts interchange from an 84 t-type

hee hee.... "black" only...   Where is Sidney, Montana in relation to
Shephard, Montana?  My mother's side is from that area.

Louie

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Oldsmagnet [SMTP:buehner@lyrea.com]
> Sent:	Wednesday, September 16, 1998 11:03 PM
> To:	Oldsmobile Mailing List
> Subject:	Re: Parts interchange from an 84 t-type
>
> > Bet you didn't know about '84 GN's either.... hee hee
>
> Oh yeah...  and aren't they supposed to be ~silver~ too???  :)
>
>
> --
> Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
> mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
> http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
>    \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
>     \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
>      V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
>   http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 08:00:19 -0600
From: Arnold Alvin TSgt <ARNOLDA@SCHRIEVER.af.mil>
Subject: RE: Parts interchange from an 84 t-type

16 total '82 Buick GN's built with the turbo... very rare.  But they were
not "black" in color.  They were carbed too.  The '84 GN was the first year
with the SFI.

Louie

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Oldsmagnet [SMTP:buehner@lyrea.com]
> Sent:	Wednesday, September 16, 1998 10:41 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Re: Parts interchange from an 84 t-type
>
> > Cool... I learn a new thing every day...  bet you didn't know about '84
> GN's
> > either.... hee hee
>
>
> Actually, the 82 was the first year, correct, and they were resurrected in
> 84,
> right???  My 83 GN is ~extremely~ rare....  1 of zero :)  Although still
> one of
> less than 4000 Buick Turbo Regals, so I still really like it.  Someday
> it'll
> drive again, but till then, it's still a great looking GN look-a-like...
>
> --
> Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
> mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
> http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
>    \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
>     \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
>      V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
>   http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1489
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