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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1481


oldsmobile-digest     Monday, September 14 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1481



Re: Looking for a good daily driver
SWAY BARS
Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?
Re: SWAY BARS
455 IN 70 CUTLASS?
Speedo re-calibration
Re: SWAY BARS
Re: Speedo re-calibration
Re: 403 motor
Re: Information wanted on "subbing-out" (sub chassis mod)
Re: '66 442 disc brake booster problem
Re: Cutlass Craft
Re: Information wanted on "subbing-out" (sub chassis mod)
Re: Found; Cast Crank Pulley and vin ?
Re: SWAY BARS
switching to manual brakes
PARTS FOR SALE
RE: Car Craft
Re:
Fibreglass repro hood
RE: Body SHop in SF bay area?
RE: 1961 Dynamic 88
Re: '84 Delta / X manifolds?
Re: Storing Cars
RE: '84 Delta / X manifolds?
Parts interchange from an 84 t-type
Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?
Re: Looking for a good daily driver
Re: '84 Delta / X manifolds?
Re: Parts interchange from an 84 t-type
Re: Parts interchange from an 84 t-type
HELP NEEDED on 84 DELTA
UNBOUNCE: '84 Delta H*lp
Re: '66 442 disc brake booster problem
Re: Looking for a good daily driver
Re: Looking for a good daily driver
g-body radiator
alternator or Battery
Re: Oil Analysis
71 cutlass hood
block thread messed up! Suggestions?
[Event] Olds Cruise Nite 9/19 (Maryland)
Re: Storing Cars
Re: switching to manual brakes
Re: Fibreglass repro hood
Re: oxidation and stains help???
Re: radiator removal advice
RE: switching to manual brakes
9/20 12th Annual Mid-Ohio Show and Swap Meet (fwd)
Power Steering Services, anybody use them?
Re: names
Re: block thread messed up! Suggestions?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 22:45:08 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Looking for a good daily driver

In a message dated 9/13/98
 9:<BR38:<BR12 PM Central Daylight Tim, pber710840@email.msn.com writes:

> Dunno about that.  I had a 650cc BSA.  I always thought the bike was
>  designed in England, but manufactured in hell.  Peter.

Well, they do have their charms :-)

Carron

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 23:03:54 EDT
From: MMBJL@aol.com
Subject: SWAY BARS

HI,
         I was at a junk yard today and found a 87 monte SS, i was wondering
if any of the handleing componenets of the suspension would fit a 72 Cuttlas,
any help would be apriciated.
       thanks
       Marty   ---imboud8@aol.com---
       72 cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 23:06:15 EDT
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?

In a message dated 9/13/98 9:23:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
cutlass260@hotmail.com writes:

<< I am in the process of dropping in a 455 into my '79 Cutlass. It has the
 2.29:1 gear ratio with limited slip.  What will this combo result in?
 Smoked tires, or what?
  >>
it will be the same as what you have right now, only a lot faster.  and yes,
it will spin the tires, too.  dont even swap if you havent done your tranny,
thogh.  also, i had a rearend with 2.29 gears (open, not posi)in mine.  put in
a built 350 olds and built th350 tranny with harsh shift kit, and 20,000 miles
later it chewed up the pinion shaft in the carrier and busted up some other
stuff in there.  if your racing this car, start saving for a ford 9" or 12
bolt now.  your current rear wont last long with a stout shift kit.  but, if
your going to baby it which is very hard to do, you might be ok.  right now im
making do with a 3.73 rearend out of a '87 monte ss.
jeremy
78 olds cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 20:11:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: SWAY BARS

- ---MMBJL@aol.com wrote:
>
> HI,
>          I was at a junk yard today and found a 87 monte SS, i was
wondering
> if any of the handleing componenets of the suspension would fit a 72
Cuttlas,
> any help would be apriciated.
>        thanks
>        Marty   ---imboud8@aol.com---
>        72 cutlass
>
Don't know if they interchange or not....but get that rearend if you
can....prolly a 3.73...hopefully
               where you located?
            SMAN
==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 22:57:29 -0400
From: Joe & Toni Artwell <tjf26@gte.net>
Subject: 455 IN 70 CUTLASS?

I have a 1970 motor and trans. I'm trying to figure out what it came
out of. Block stamp is 39602F and the stamp next to the right head is
30M135615. The trans has a stamp of 70OD5258. I know from the olds/FAC
the following:
39602F=68-72 455 block
30M135615=3-OLDS/GM, 0-1970, M-Lansing, 135615-Last 6 digets of the vin
70OD5258=70-1970, OD-455 Cutlass, Supreme (3600,4200 Series), 5258-S/N

	It dosen't have the original heads (KA heads), exhaust manifolds
(headers), or intake (Performer). It came in my 71 442. Now here is the
question. Is there any way to tell exactly what model car this came out
of and what the H.P. and torque specs are. According to the trans code
that was in a 455 Cutlass. Could you get a regular Cutlass with a 455 or
did it have to be a SX or something of that nature? What are the
3600/4200 series cars?
				 Thanks
                                  Joe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 23:14:33 -0400
From: "Gary J Couse" <gjcouse@mhonline.net>
Subject: Speedo re-calibration

>Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 11:40:26 -0400
>From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
>Subject: Re: Speedo re-calibration

>If you go to a transmission shop...or the dealer...give them the stock tire
size (i.e. the size the speedometer was calibrated to) and then give them
the current tire size.  They should be able to give you the proper speedo
gear...either for them to install or for you to install.  I'm sure that for
50 bucks, the tranny shop would be happy to install it for you.

Jason Adcock
E-mail: rocketolds@vt.edu
Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

<Q>

Doesn't the rally gauge pack also have a certain amount of electronic
calibration?

Gary.

- ----Regards,


Gary J. Couse

Couse Customs

gjcouse@mhonline.net
<mailto:gjcouse@mhonline.net>

cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com <mailto:cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com>

 

1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS


G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer

techsupport@salemcounty.com <mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 23:28:26 EDT
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: SWAY BARS

In a message dated 9/13/98 11:12:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
super442@yahoo.com writes:

<<  I was at a junk yard today and found a 87 monte SS, i was
 wondering
 > if any of the handleing componenets of the suspension would fit a 72
 Cuttlas, >>
steering box can be used.  MUCH quicker ratio than the '72s.   rearend would
be great for a g-body, but not worth it in a '72.  too dang weak, plus its
narrower than the '72s(different mounting locations, too).  better idea would
be to buy a posi carrier and gears for your present rear.
id get the steering box, and the tranny if you want overdrive in your car.
the monte ss overdrive has very desireable internal parts.  thats about it,
unless the yard will give you a good price on the stuff.  prices on that stuff
are running about $150 for the gearbox, or front/rear swaybars, or set of
springs, or open rearend, or transmission.  bout $250 for a posi rearend.
they all have 3.73 gears, if its newer than a '84.  if you can get better
deals than that, i would buy that stuff too cuz you can sell all of it in no
time and make profit.
hope this is useable info,
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 23:39:42 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Speedo re-calibration

Well, not really, not that I could imagine, anyway.  The speedometer can
only report what it reads from the gear in the transmission.  Even with the
electronic gauge operation, speed reporting via a small gear in the
transmission is 100% mechanical.

Jason Adcock
E-mail: rocketolds@vt.edu
Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gary J Couse <gjcouse@mhonline.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, September 13, 1998 11:15 PM
Subject: Speedo re-calibration

>Doesn't the rally gauge pack also have a certain amount of electronic
>calibration?
>
>Gary.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 00:16:31 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: 403 motor

Hey there Don,

Here's motor specs.
79 403 block bored .030 over => 409
403 crank ground down .010
stock 403 rods
Arias(?) forged aluminum pistons, 10.5:1
Crane Cam  .480/.496;  (280-290 adv.? cam card missing!, maybe 292 or was
it 272, dual pattern though, both with some high 200's duration
(advertised)
Crane lifters, pushrods and springs
72 350 (7a) heads
Edelbrock 7111 performer RPM intake
Carter 750cfm AFB
mallory unilite distibutor w/ accel supercoil

TH350, stock converter, shift kit

3.08 posi  <---I like that

Recently smoked a 96 Vette (since we fortunately didn't reach the point
where he'd be in 6th gear!)

5.0's are effortless, generally, non-blown ones at least

Most importantly, those damn h*ndas and crap.  I'd rather get smoked by
an X-11 Citation!

The TH350 puts up with mass amounts of abuse with no complaints.
I had a TH400 in an 81 Cutlass with a mostly stock 78 350, and I blew out
second gear.  I think that the trans had been abused and neglected for a
very long time before I got it, however.
My transmission guy looked under the car and told me at a glance that the
trans was from a cadillac, and as far as I know, it was.  How'd he do
that?!
See ya

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                                   Hilltown, PA

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 23:38:11 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Information wanted on "subbing-out" (sub chassis mod)

Joe, both are now building "street" chassis with asociated strength,...
_________

Cool.  Thanks, I didn't know that.  For the person who wrote the original
post on subframing a street rod, I've stumbled across a magazine called
Rodders Digest at the local supermarket.  They're in the middle of a 47
Olds street rod buildup which included a subframe addition, apparently from
an A-body, but I came in late and missed that issue.  I'm sure you can buy
back issues or reprints from them.  Unfortunately, I forgot to get their
mailing address.  I'll try and pick up a copy next time I'm at the store.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 23:42:57 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: '66 442 disc brake booster problem

Anybody ever seen this problem before? Any other GM applications that will
fit? Any and all ideas appreciated-

TIA

Peter
CoupeKing
__________

This is very common.  Mondello sells a reduced diameter power booster for
just such an application (you didn't really need that arm and leg, did
you?), as does Master Power brakes and  a host of others.  Alternatively,
have you considered going to manual brakes?  My 70 W-30 is manual disc and
I find that the pedal effort is not noticeably greater than with power
boost.

Joe Padavano
padavavno.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 00:02:48 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Cutlass Craft

And, did y'all see the 70 Cutlass in the current Car Craft.
____________

But the best part is that the car has Batten heads, a rare Edelbrock Victor
manifold, and runs low 9s in the quarter!

And only a couple of pages later, an 83 G-body H/O lookalike powered by a
455 destroked to 418 that also turns 9s.  On top of which, when the owner
suggested he was going to trash the Olds for a Chevy motor, they ridiculed
him!

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 00:15:18 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Information wanted on "subbing-out" (sub chassis mod)

In a message dated 9/13/98
 11:<BR12:<BR36 PM Central Daylight Ti, Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM writes:

>  For the person who wrote the original
>  post on subframing a street rod, I've stumbled across a magazine called
>  Rodders Digest at the local supermarket.  They're in the middle of a 47
>  Olds street rod buildup which included a subframe addition, apparently from
>  an A-body, but I came in late and missed that issue.


Damn, Joe,

That's exactly where I want to go. I'll go out tomorrow and find the current
rodder's Digest and get the back stuff.

Thanks for the huss!!!

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 00:09:04 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Found; Cast Crank Pulley and vin ?

question 1: What can someone tell me about 36X205428 which I understand is
part of the vin stamped on my block.
____________

3 = Oldsmobile division
6 = 1976
X = Kansas City build plant  (didn't KC only build B-body cars?)
205428 = last six digits of VIN of the car the motor originally came in

==================

question B: How can I find the timing mark that indicates tdc on #1 piston
on
a 350 olds?
____________

There should be a groove in the balancer (not the pulley) and a timing tab
extending from the front cover near the power steering pump.  Note that
this timing tab is a separate bolt-on part from the front cover and could
be missing.

==================

question III: I have seen some of the rocker covers that have OLDSMOBILE
stamped in them.  Was there anything special about these engines or were
these
rocker covers used during certain years?
____________

The stamped OLDSMOBILE valve covers were used from 73-75 (?) and have no
special significance.  They _do_ look very cool when chromed and most
people will ask where you got them.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 00:13:42 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: SWAY BARS

        I was at a junk yard today and found a 87 monte SS, i was wondering
if any of the handleing componenets of the suspension would fit a 72
Cuttlas,
any help would be apriciated.
       thanks
       Marty
_______________

Nope, sorry.  The one bolt-in suspension part you might be able to find is
the 1 1/4" front sway bar from a 70s vintage Trans Am.  Only the front bar
will fit the 64-72 cars.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 21:29:58 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: switching to manual brakes

>This is very common.  Mondello sells a reduced diameter power booster for
>just such an application (you didn't really need that arm and leg, did
>you?), as does Master Power brakes and  a host of others.  Alternatively,
>have you considered going to manual brakes?  My 70 W-30 is manual disc and
>I find that the pedal effort is not noticeably greater than with power

What would be required to switch to manual brakes?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 00:56:24 EDT
From: MMBJL@aol.com
Subject: PARTS FOR SALE

- -----------72 CUTLASS PARTS-----
CLOCK-(not working)---$30
HOOD-- good shape-gold----$125
DASH PAD--green --good shape   $100
STEERING COLUM-green, no tilt, clolum shift-$50
SPEEDOMETER_ colum shift, good shape-$20
REAR SEAT--- toorn on seems white $30----(both halves)
SPLIT BENCH SEAT- black very good shape --$100
GLOVE BOX --green--good shape  $40

I live in Medford MA , shipping MAY be available, but no price includes any
type of shipping. I would trade for 72 cutlass parts     E-MAIL me diriectly
at
- ---------------imboud8@aol.com------

                                 Thankyou
                                   Marty

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 22:09:06 -0700
From: "Corey Day" <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RE: Car Craft

The '69 Article was titled Junk Yard Dog, it was a two part article.
Somewhere in 1984 ( I think around Sept.)

Corey Day
dayc@ix.netcom.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Kerry Kroger
> Sent: Sunday, September 13, 1998 8:56 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Car Craft
>
>
> quite a few years ago (when I was in high school) Hot rod did a
> build up on
> a 69 cutlass s they put a 455 budget rebuild in it with a th350
> a 4.10 posi 12 bolt headers and dual exhaust took it to the drag strip
> and ran not unrespectable times low 13 as I recall popular hot
> rodding did a
> g body drag car called project "O" 350 olds powered did 10's in
> the quarter
> then they upgraded to a 455 to try for the 9's dont know if they made it
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Igor T. '81 455DRB <igor455@home.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Sunday, September 13, 1998 1:41 AM
> Subject: Re: Car Craft
>
>
> >If it does turn up to be an SS, lets all sign an angry note and dare them
> to
> >print it.  I don't remember the last time they did a project like "Cheap
> >Street Cutlass" or any other car that was not a Chevy.  Cheap Street
> >Chevelle, Heavy Metal I and Heavy Metal II (really liked these two
> thought),
> >LT1 60's Camaro, and so on.  Why don't they take a Cutlass, GS, GTO,
> >Charger, Valiant and build it up and keep adding to it or make a Heavy
> Metal
> >Delta or so.  I like that Magazine and even though they are promising
> change
> >I remain skeptical.
> >
> >Igor Todorovic
> >1981 Delta 88 (455/Th400/3.23s)
> >1981 Regency (307/200R4/propane)
> >1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: JJP442@aol.com <JJP442@aol.com>
> >To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> >Date: Sunday, September 13, 1998 12:37 AM
> >Subject: Re: Car Craft
> >
> >
> >>Me too!!!!
> >>John
> >>JJP442@aol.com
> >>
> >
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 01:21:29 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re:

Gary J Couse wrote:
>
> 454 supercharged rat in it. Hey, Why, oh why, great Olds God, Did you not
> compel him to blow a 455...

Maybe he just likes to suck on a chubby!
                       ^^^^
Sorry, couldn't resist!
- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 01:17:30 EDT
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Fibreglass repro hood

Am thinking of putting a VFN company 'glass W-25 ram air hood onto a '69 CS
street car project. Have heard mixed reviews on these repro parts and was
wondering if anybody had any direct info or experience with these units.

Do they fit? I'd like to use hinges instead of pins.
Are they smooth and look good when finished?
Any problems putting the '70 style hood onto a '69?

TIA

Peter
CoupeKing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 22:20:39 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Body SHop in SF bay area?

I just had my Starfire done by Blake's in Santa Rosa.
Bigger dough than some at $5K, but I had 'em do
rust repair and replace some panels as well as take
the thing down to metal and back up again. I'm happy
that the $ was well spent. Let me know if you'd like
to see example(s) of their work before moving forward
I'm in Marin.

cf

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Corey Day [mailto:dayc@ix.netcom.com]
> Sent: Sunday, September 13, 1998 8:03 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: Body SHop in SF bay area?
>
>
> There are a couple in Petaluma
> Let me know what kind of car you want painted and I send the
> contact info fir the best choice.
>
> Corey

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 22:21:13 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: 1961 Dynamic 88

Mark,
Welcome. You have what GM used to call a "B" body. This means
it shares some glass and other mechanical parts with some Bu*cks,
P*ntiacs and Ch*vies. Hollanders Interchange Manual can tell you
what parts swap. I think you have a 394 cu.in. in this car if memory
serves. See Bryce's 442.com for more oldsmodata, but be aware that
much of the info available focuses on the Cutlasses and 442's. Big
cars for restoration are more rare (and for me, more fun), but there's
just less call out there for parts and so on. See Fusick's for repro and
NOS parts.

The good part of the limited demand for big cars is if you find one in
 a junkyard, it will sometimes be in good condition with lots of parts
on it. Then you have the pleasure of stripping it like a christmas tree
in January.

cf
66 98 convertible
66 Starfire

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Hillman [mailto:mhillman@ebtech.net]
> Sent: Sunday, September 13, 1998 7:57 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 1961 Dynamic 88
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm new to the list and new to Oldsmobiles for that matter.
> I recently
> acquired a 1961 Olds Dynamic 88.  I believe it's a 'Holiday
> Coupe'.  I'm
> beginning my search for info and would appreciate any tips, web sites,
> FAQ's etc that would apply to this vehicle.  I need a rear
> window and am
> wondering if the 88 shares any parts with other GM vehicles.
>
> Any help appreciated.
> Mark
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 23:17:45 -0700
From: "Mike Jones" <mike@gleep.com>
Subject: Re: '84 Delta / X manifolds?

Okay, I'm combining these 2 messages into one to conserve some bandwith...

First, Greg's.

> As for tires, you might want to search out a set of 15x7 wheels (try a
> junkyard and look for Caprice police cars) and 70 or 65 series tires. I
> don't think Olds ever offered 15x7s on these (anyone know?) but they help
> fill out the wheel wells nicely and with the wider tires look great. Also
> consider a rear sway bar from the same Caprice if you don't have one. As
> for power, wait for the 307 to expire (could be a while) aand drop in a
> 403....

I have no idea if if the '80-'85 B/C bodies came with 15x7s, I do know that
my '78 has 15x7 steel rims on it, and I'm running 235/70VR15s.  Wider than
stock, but still plenty of room for meat.  I have a friend that is running
255/70VR15s on a set of 15x8s on his '79 Delta.  His car is heavily
modified (i.e. 455, auto-x sway bars) and a great sleeper.  Sway bars off
of Chevy vehicles tend to be thicker than other vehicles, except for cars
with handling packages.  A late 70's front sway bar from a F body (look for
the TAs with the 1.25 or 1.31" bar) will supposedly fit on a '77-on B/C
body car (see them on '94-later Impalas, basically a C body chassis, which
is a B body chassis lengthened) and is rumored to make the big cars handle
like slot cars when combined with a 1.5" Herb Adams VSE  rear sway bar
(have both these bars in the garage, due to front end frame damage they
will stay there until an accident-free B body is procured).


> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 02:56:49 -0600
> From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
> Subject: Re: X manifolds?
>
> Good luck with the 307 tiring out.  Anyways, I don't know about the chip
but
> the exaust will help a bit.  Remember thought, the 307 will react little
to
> simple bolt on mods like exaust and so on (unless stock is in terrible
> shape).  What I did on my Delta back when I had the 307 in it was get an
> exaust pipe for a 350 Disel (you can get this for your Cust.Curs.).  It
is
> one pice, was 2.5" diametar from this supplier and had no place for a
> Catalytic converter.  So this pipe went all the way back from manifold to
> muffler.  I put this and a Dynomax Super Turbo muffler, nixed the
tailpipe
> and put only a downturn pipe.  The car was not loud but had a proper
street
> machine sound.  I then added a tailpipe and the car turned dead quiet.
> With and without tailpipe the car felt more powerfull over all.  I had a
NEW
> exaust (stock) with no Catalytic when I replace it and the difference was
> still there.  If your system is old, you will notice a difference.  Then
> best part about this is that you can keep you stock exaust pipes and
> Catalytic in case you need to pass emissions of something.   Igor.
>
> Igor Todorovic

Igor, A rather cheap alternative to the diesel pipe that I have found is
the dynomax 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust system for the '94-'96 Impala SS.
Fully aluminized, it'll fit a C body like a glove and will fit a B body
with minimal work.  The pipe to the catalyst will have to be formed, due to
the location of the catalyst on the Impala being VERY far forward.  I
lucked out, I already had a 2.5" mandrel bent S turn (very gentle one)
which lined up almost perfectly with the pipe.  The pipe(s) cost me only
$70, and I have friends with a muffler shop, which brought the total cost
to under $200.  A tailpipe had to be constructed, due to the Dynomax system
utilizing a resonator after the over-the-axle pipe.  A turbo muffler was
utilized.  Drones like crazy above 2000 rpm, but smoothes out after around
2500 rpm (I never take the motor over 4000 rpm due to the 2.41 gearing in
my '78).

The Custom Cruiser would probably not recieve any exhaust work in the near
future.  My mom's car, she drives it constantly, and it still has awhile
for it to become smog exempt here in California (my car is registered in a
"nonattainment" county, meaning no bi-annual smog checks, just smog upon
transfer of ownership).

Mike Jones

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 12:52:37 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Storing Cars

The www.442.com web-site has a section on how to store cars.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: TimLeary97@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Storing Cars
> Date: Sunday, September 13, 1998 9:29 PM
>
> I'm happy to say I can't help you, and I don't have a clue.
>
> Top down year round in Dallas Texas.
>
> 64 F85 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 02:04:40 -0400
From: "Gary J Couse" <gjcouse@mhonline.net>
Subject: RE: '84 Delta / X manifolds?

My wife's g-body could use some pep. Stock 307 - TH200-4R tranny. I thought
of changing the chip but have no info on same. Any suggestions as to chip
brand and installation tips??


- ----Regards,


Gary J. Couse

Couse Customs

gjcouse@mhonline.net <mailto:gjcouse@mhonline.net>

cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com <mailto:cutlass_iroc_ss@hotmail.com>

 

1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS


G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer

techsupport@salemcounty.com <mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 02:11:08 EDT
From: Socalolds@aol.com
Subject: Parts interchange from an 84 t-type

Does anyone know if any parts off an 84 Buick T-type will interchange with and
82-86 Olds, i.e differental, trans., ect.
Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 00:29:35 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?

Depending on your cam and other stuff you will most likely spin the tires
good, get good off the line and superb midrange pull.  Also, expect speeds
like 140 mph + depending on powerband.  If you have stock hight tires
(205/70/14s) I calculate you need 4350 RPM to do about 140 MPH.  Even with
the bottom end cam I have and 3.23s it easily gets to 4500RPM in no time.
With some stretch of highway, I can't see why you can't do 140.  Have fun,
this will be one fast olds.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (455/Th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/200R4/propane)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)


- -----Original Message-----
From: DYeager535@aol.com <DYeager535@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, September 13, 1998 7:29 PM
Subject: Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?


>In a message dated 98-09-13 21:23:46 EDT, you write:
>
><< I am in the process of dropping in a 455 into my '79 Cutlass. It has the
> 2.29:1 gear ratio with limited slip.  What will this combo result in?
> Smoked tires, or what?
>  >>
>
> Broken axles?? I'm not sure..had the 2.29 against my 403, pinion bearing
went
>bad, probably not from the motor though...that 455 might push the limits of
>these rear ends, especially that high gear ratio. (GREAT on the freeway
>though!)  Dorian
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 02:29:41 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: Looking for a good daily driver

speedcom,

Pick up a Bargain Mart newspaper at Wiegels.
You will probably find what you are looking for.

Kevin White
83 CSB, FE3X clone
86 CS

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 00:37:52 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: '84 Delta / X manifolds?

My '81 Delta 4-door came with the F-41 suspention pacage.  It has 15x7 rims,
rear sway bar, better bushings, etc.  The guy who owned it befoure me put
heavy duty springs in it so it handles great.  I ran 255/60/15s on those
rims and it worked great.  When I changed my rear end it came with bigger
bolt pattern, so I put the rear tires on 6.5" rims I had.  Big difference in
looks, and the tire had much less surface contact then with the 7s.  I since
added 15x10 Cragar SS rims on the back and it looks beautiful.  The car also
originally had a limited slip (2.41) but I don't know if that came with the
f-41 suspention or if it was separate.  It too has a 455/Th400 combo and now
sports dual exaust and 3.23 limited slip.  Poor traction, but still great
off the line acceleration.  There should be more late 70s, early 80s Deltas
around with 455s.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (455/Th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/200R4/propane)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Jones <mike@gleep.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, September 13, 1998 11:36 PM
Subject: Re: '84 Delta / X manifolds?


>Okay, I'm combining these 2 messages into one to conserve some bandwith...
>
>First, Greg's.
>
>> As for tires, you might want to search out a set of 15x7 wheels (try a
>> junkyard and look for Caprice police cars) and 70 or 65 series tires. I
>> don't think Olds ever offered 15x7s on these (anyone know?) but they help
>> fill out the wheel wells nicely and with the wider tires look great. Also
>> consider a rear sway bar from the same Caprice if you don't have one. As
>> for power, wait for the 307 to expire (could be a while) aand drop in a
>> 403....
>
>I have no idea if if the '80-'85 B/C bodies came with 15x7s, I do know that
>my '78 has 15x7 steel rims on it, and I'm running 235/70VR15s.  Wider than
>stock, but still plenty of room for meat.  I have a friend that is running
>255/70VR15s on a set of 15x8s on his '79 Delta.  His car is heavily
>modified (i.e. 455, auto-x sway bars) and a great sleeper.  Sway bars off
>of Chevy vehicles tend to be thicker than other vehicles, except for cars
>with handling packages.  A late 70's front sway bar from a F body (look for
>the TAs with the 1.25 or 1.31" bar) will supposedly fit on a '77-on B/C
>body car (see them on '94-later Impalas, basically a C body chassis, which
>is a B body chassis lengthened) and is rumored to make the big cars handle
>like slot cars when combined with a 1.5" Herb Adams VSE  rear sway bar
>(have both these bars in the garage, due to front end frame damage they
>will stay there until an accident-free B body is procured).
>
>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 02:56:49 -0600
>> From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
>> Subject: Re: X manifolds?
>>
>> Good luck with the 307 tiring out.  Anyways, I don't know about the chip
>but
>> the exaust will help a bit.  Remember thought, the 307 will react little
>to
>> simple bolt on mods like exaust and so on (unless stock is in terrible
>> shape).  What I did on my Delta back when I had the 307 in it was get an
>> exaust pipe for a 350 Disel (you can get this for your Cust.Curs.).  It
>is
>> one pice, was 2.5" diametar from this supplier and had no place for a
>> Catalytic converter.  So this pipe went all the way back from manifold to
>> muffler.  I put this and a Dynomax Super Turbo muffler, nixed the
>tailpipe
>> and put only a downturn pipe.  The car was not loud but had a proper
>street
>> machine sound.  I then added a tailpipe and the car turned dead quiet.
>> With and without tailpipe the car felt more powerfull over all.  I had a
>NEW
>> exaust (stock) with no Catalytic when I replace it and the difference was
>> still there.  If your system is old, you will notice a difference.  Then
>> best part about this is that you can keep you stock exaust pipes and
>> Catalytic in case you need to pass emissions of something.   Igor.
>>
>> Igor Todorovic
>
>Igor, A rather cheap alternative to the diesel pipe that I have found is
>the dynomax 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust system for the '94-'96 Impala SS.
>Fully aluminized, it'll fit a C body like a glove and will fit a B body
>with minimal work.  The pipe to the catalyst will have to be formed, due to
>the location of the catalyst on the Impala being VERY far forward.  I
>lucked out, I already had a 2.5" mandrel bent S turn (very gentle one)
>which lined up almost perfectly with the pipe.  The pipe(s) cost me only
>$70, and I have friends with a muffler shop, which brought the total cost
>to under $200.  A tailpipe had to be constructed, due to the Dynomax system
>utilizing a resonator after the over-the-axle pipe.  A turbo muffler was
>utilized.  Drones like crazy above 2000 rpm, but smoothes out after around
>2500 rpm (I never take the motor over 4000 rpm due to the 2.41 gearing in
>my '78).
>
>The Custom Cruiser would probably not recieve any exhaust work in the near
>future.  My mom's car, she drives it constantly, and it still has awhile
>for it to become smog exempt here in California (my car is registered in a
>"nonattainment" county, meaning no bi-annual smog checks, just smog upon
>transfer of ownership).
>
>Mike Jones
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 02:38:17 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: Parts interchange from an 84 t-type

Socalolds wrote

>Does any one know...


Socal, yes they will interchange. Both cars built on the same frame.

Kevin White
83 CSB, FE3X clone
86 CS

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 02:56:25 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: Parts interchange from an 84 t-type

Socalolds@aol.com wrote:
>
> Does anyone know if any parts off an 84 Buick T-type will interchange > with
and 82-86 Olds, i.e differental, trans., ect. > Thanks

Just about everything except the body panels,
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 02:11:38 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: HELP NEEDED on 84 DELTA

I never understood why people wrote H?LP, or H*ELP, or whatever, when
that's what the list is about to begin with...anyway...

I have a 1984 Delta 88 4-door with an Olds 307 (but only Olds made the 307,
yes?), 150k on the clock.  I have three questions, in regards to problems
I've been having...

1.  My OIL/CHOKE idiot light comes on (and then goes off) at certain times,
specifically when I go up or down hills, or when I come to a full stop (but
never, for example, when I'm just booking down a flat stretch of highway).
I check the oil every couple of days, and it always reads FULL; why is this
happening?  I don't think that it's a problem with the sender, because
there are set times when it happens (up or down hills, etc.)...could it be
the oil pump?  Am I endangering my engine by driving it like this?  After
the light comes on, it will go off either (a) after the major part of the
ascent (or descent) on the hill is completed, or (b) when I goose the
accelerator.  I think this could be a potentially serious problem...

2.  My transmission "clicks".  I know the car came stock with a TH-200, but
the previous owner said (and I have the receipt) that the transmission had
been replaced with a (quote from the receipt) "rebuilt TH-350".  The
"clicking" happens when I come to a complete stop, or when I accelerate
from a dead stop.  I have no other problems to report as far as the
transmission is concerned, which is why I think that this is the less
serious of the two mechanical problems I need help with...maybe it would
help if I could positively identify the transmission that's on my car?  How
do I go about doing this?  Is there an ID plate, or what?

3.  When I bought the car, I had no problems with the driver's door key
slot...just in the last day, though, I am having (extremely minor) trouble
inserting the key into the slot, but much more dramatic problems trying to
pull the key out (as in, it REALLY doesn't want to come out of the slot; I
have to "jiggle" it quite a bit).  The door always unlocks without a
problem, it's just that it's kind of rough putting it in, and a real bitch
to pull out.  Is this a problem that could possibly be fixed with graphite
spray?  If so, what brand should I use?  Any other possible
diagnosis/solutions?

Thanks in advance (and HI JOE P.!),
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons				 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 
3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722
								Home :	
(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile						(713) 776-2110 
(Houston)
 	 Delta 88				Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  
4-door								(713) 
318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 06:48:06 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '84 Delta H*lp

Now you know why the word is always spelled "H*LP"; majordomo bounces it
if you don't do that.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: H*LP NEEDED on 84 DELTA

I never understood why people wrote H?LP, or H*ELP, or whatever, when
that's what the list is about to begin with...anyway...

I have a 1984 Delta 88 4-door with an Olds 307 (but only Olds made the 307,
yes?), 150k on the clock.  I have three questions, in regards to problems
I've been having...

1.  My OIL/CHOKE idiot light comes on (and then goes off) at certain times,
specifically when I go up or down hills, or when I come to a full stop (but
never, for example, when I'm just booking down a flat stretch of highway).
I check the oil every couple of days, and it always reads FULL; why is this
happening?  I don't think that it's a problem with the sender, because
there are set times when it happens (up or down hills, etc.)...could it be
the oil pump?  Am I endangering my engine by driving it like this?  After
the light comes on, it will go off either (a) after the major part of the
ascent (or descent) on the hill is completed, or (b) when I goose the
accelerator.  I think this could be a potentially serious problem...

2.  My transmission "clicks".  I know the car came stock with a TH-200, but
the previous owner said (and I have the receipt) that the transmission had
been replaced with a (quote from the receipt) "rebuilt TH-350".  The
"clicking" happens when I come to a complete stop, or when I accelerate
from a dead stop.  I have no other problems to report as far as the
transmission is concerned, which is why I think that this is the less
serious of the two mechanical problems I need help with...maybe it would
help if I could positively identify the transmission that's on my car?  How
do I go about doing this?  Is there an ID plate, or what?

3.  When I bought the car, I had no problems with the driver's door key
slot...just in the last day, though, I am having (extremely minor) trouble
inserting the key into the slot, but much more dramatic problems trying to
pull the key out (as in, it REALLY doesn't want to come out of the slot; I
have to "jiggle" it quite a bit).  The door always unlocks without a
problem, it's just that it's kind of rough putting it in, and a real bitch
to pull out.  Is this a problem that could possibly be fixed with graphite
spray?  If so, what brand should I use?  Any other possible
diagnosis/solutions?

Thanks in advance (and HI JOE P.!),
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons				 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 
3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722
								Home :	
(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile						(713) 776-2110 
(Houston)
 	 Delta 88				Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  
4-door								(713) 
318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 05:50:00 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: '66 442 disc brake booster problem

I converted to manual brakes on my 68  442 , used a  manual master cylinder
from a 1975 four wheel manual disk brake corvette and stops realy well
                                 butch   68   442  post
Padavano.Joe@orbital.com wrote:

> Anybody ever seen this problem before? Any other GM applications that will
> fit? Any and all ideas appreciated-
>
> TIA
>
> Peter
> CoupeKing
> __________
>
> This is very common.  Mondello sells a reduced diameter power booster for
> just such an application (you didn't really need that arm and leg, did
> you?), as does Master Power brakes and  a host of others.  Alternatively,
> have you considered going to manual brakes?  My 70 W-30 is manual disc and
> I find that the pedal effort is not noticeably greater than with power
> boost.
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavavno.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 06:54:55 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Looking for a good daily driver

In a message dated 9/14/98
 2:<BR09:<BR34 AM Central Daylight Tim, KWhite5590@aol.com writes:

> Pick up a Bargain Mart newspaper at Wiegels.
>  You will probably find what you are looking for.
>

Thanks, Kevin,

I had forgotten about Bargain Mart. I have also seen Thrifty Nickel...is that
the same sort of thing?

Don

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 06:56:30 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Looking for a good daily driver

Kevin,

Another thing... Are '73-'75 coupes expensive these days if in good condition
? I think maybe the 74 is my favorite Cutlass.

Don

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 07:49:54 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: g-body radiator

Hi there
I've decided I need to replace my radiator.  Does anyone know for sure
that the "Be Cool" 18x31 inch radiator is one I could get and drop in
with few problems.  I measured my radiator to be 18x33, (actually it
should be 33x18).  This is the radiator on page 95 in the newest Summit
catalog.
It's going in a 1987 Cutlass Supreme, originally with 307.  Thanks a lot!

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                                   Hilltown, PA

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 07:12:33 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: alternator or Battery

My 94 Che!y Cavalier has a problem and I cant figure out what it is.  There
is a humming sound coming from the alternator.  The car want start after It
runs for a while. I tried to test the alternator by disconnecting the
battery and the car shuts off. Don't know if that is an accurate test for
these new computer controlled cars though.  The alternator light never came
on either. Can any one tell me a sure fire test to help me determine if it's
the Alternator or the Battery.

Thanks

======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
19 Wins 13 Losses
======================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 07:34:18 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Oil Analysis

> Where can you get your motor oil analyzed at? Does it really work? Can they
> tell you of too much bearing wear?
> Pettrix@prodigy.net

You can do this at AutoZone. They have a little package from Mobil. You
change the oil on your car and while it is warm take a sample. Then you
send the sample to mobil and they will analyze it in their lab and send
you results within one or 2 business days.

They say they test around 50 values in the oil. Mainly they are going to
tell you about percentage of metals in your oil. If any value is (too) high,
they will point it out. For ex., if you have too much chrome in there your
ring(s) are about to go bad... and they also check on the alloys mainly
used in the bearings!

I never tried it but read the package at AutoZone since this thing was on
the list like 2 mos. ago. It sounds pretty reasonable and I would use it
for ex. before I would buy an expensive car! I also would use it before
going on a long trip with my car.

Regards, George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 07:46:37 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: 71 cutlass hood

How much does the stock hood on a 71 cutlass weigh anyway?
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
20 Wins 13 Losses 1Tie
======================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 07:43:16 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: block thread messed up! Suggestions?

Hi Guys,

I am back from a pretty bad weekend on my engine...

I had to find out that the upper right thread in the block where the
water pump and timing cover bolts on to is totally messed up! It has been
"redone" with jbweld before and the block metal in the lower part around
the thread is broken off!

Here is a memory-map for the experts:
Front view (0= 'self tapping' threads in timing cover, O=block threads,
X= the bad one...)


                  o      o

              X             O


              0             0


                  o     o


How can you fix a probem like that? Can you deposit metal with welding
and drill and tap it? jbweld again?? If welding works, what method and
metal? (Friends have every welder I can think of...)
Please give me suggestions. I am pretty helpless with this problem and
desperate to get the engine done soon.

Thanks, George

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 98 08:45:27 -0500
From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Subject: [Event] Olds Cruise Nite 9/19 (Maryland)

Shameless plug for my club's upcoming event this weekend!

September 19 - 2nd ANNUAL OLDSMOBILE CENTENNIAL CLUB CRUISE NITE

Hosted by the Oldsmobile Centennial Club. At The Big M Restaurant/ Bel
Air Drive-In  Theater, P.O. Box 111, Rt. 22, Churchville, MD (Between
Bel Air & Aberdeen, MD. 5 miles  west of I-95). All years and condition
Oldsmobiles welcome, daily drivers to show trailer queens. Free goodie
bag to first 50 Oldsmobiles through the gate. Open to the public. Other
vehicles welcome to cruise on in. Music, fun and games, 50/50 drawing.
FREE! For more info contact: The Big M @ (410) 734-4370 or Brad
Nicholson at (410) 256-0381 or email: brad442@erols.com. Web Site:
http://www.erols.com/brad442/occ

Quick & Dirty Directions:
Take I-95 either North or South
Get off at Exit 85 - Bel Air/Aberdeen (MD Rt 22)
Head West on Rt. 22 toward Bel Air
Travel 5-6 miles to Churchville
The Big M is on the left

Oldsmobiles get the asphalt and grass to the right (Chevy's and Fords to the
back of the lot please ;-)

Brad Nicholson (OCA's WebGuy)
brad442@erols.com
OCA Web Site - http://www.oldsclub.org

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 09:05:32 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Re: Storing Cars

Ron Haun here, live in Orchard Park NY. Have a 71 442 W30 Convert.
All I do to store mine is, get the oil changed, fill the gas tank, put gas
stabilizer in plus some dry gas, disconnect the batt., put car cover on
and thats it. Been doing this for 15 years now and no problems.
Ron Haun (rghaun@aol.com)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 09:31:33 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: switching to manual brakes

>This is very common.  Mondello sells a reduced diameter power booster for
>just such an application (you didn't really need that arm and leg, did
>you?), as does Master Power brakes and  a host of others.  Alternatively,
>have you considered going to manual brakes?  My 70 W-30 is manual disc and
>I find that the pedal effort is not noticeably greater than with power

What would be required to switch to manual brakes?
_______________

You'd need a manual brake master cylinder (I believe the bore is a
different diameter), the correct pushrod to connect to the brake pedal, and
a rebending of the lines to the master cylinder due to it's new location.
You'd also need to plug the port on the intake manifold used to feed vacuum
to the power booster.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 09:38:00 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Fibreglass repro hood

Am thinking of putting a VFN company 'glass W-25 ram air hood onto a '69 CS
street car project. Have heard mixed reviews on these repro parts and was
wondering if anybody had any direct info or experience with these units.

Do they fit? I'd like to use hinges instead of pins.
Are they smooth and look good when finished?
Any problems putting the '70 style hood onto a '69?
______________

I have one of these hoods in my basement.  This particular one does not
have the indentations for the factory hood pins (they could be added).  It
does have a fiberglass understructure which mimics the factory metal inner
panel.  There are molded-in metal studs to attach to the factory hinges.
You will need to either remove your hinge springs and use a prop rod or
else get special lightweight springs for 'glass hoods.  Be sure you get the
"heavyweight" bolt-on version, which includes the understructure.  I don't
know how easy it would be to incorporate the hood latch.  First, there's a
difference between the 69 and 70 latch mechanisms:  69 hangs down from the
underside of the hood while 70 sticks up from the core support.  Finally,
the hood I have does not have the air box to direct the cold air from the
scoops to the carb.  If you wanted the hood to be functional you'd need to
cut out the understructure, fabricate an air box, then reattach the
understructure.  I don't know if new versions of the hood incorporate this
or not.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 06:45:41 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: oxidation and stains help???

> I have had good luck with the dupont white polishing compound.
> If you use a power buffer take care with the edges as Joe said.

BTW, last time I bought this stuff, it came in two consistencies:
the heavy-duty stuff comes in a red plastic tub, is a rusty red
color and the consistency of gritty toothpaste. I don't think you
want to use this on a power buffer. (IIRC, it's officially called
Rubbing Compound.)

The white Polishing Compound comes in a green plastic tub and you
can apply it either by hand or with a buffer. Be real careful
with the buffer...

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 06:51:42 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: radiator removal advice

> Well, I'll be removing my radiator today to give it a good
> upside-down flushing.  If anyone has any advice or suggestions
> on effective flush methods or products, or warnings of what to
> avoid, etc. I'd appreciate it very much.  87 Cutlass, by the way.

I had good results by leaving the radiator in place and using the
Prestone kit with the tee fitting in the heater hose, etc. Only
thing I did differently was to leave the petcocks alone and drain
it by removing the lower hose several times during the flushing
time while the garden hose was running into the tee fitting.

You get a great rush of water out the bottom hose connection,
carrying a surprising amount of crud with it that you know would
never make it through the little petcocks. Pressed the lower hose
back onto the connection, let the radiator fill again until it was
flowing out the top, remove lower hose, let drain, reattach hose,
repeat. After doing this four or five times, the water rushing out
the bottom was clear, and the job was done.

If you want to remove the radiator anyway, take the fan off first,
even if it looks like there's tons of clearance. You'll be glad
you did.  :-)

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 08:51:19 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: switching to manual brakes

>
>What would be required to switch to manual brakes?
>_______________
>
>You'd need a manual brake master cylinder (I believe the bore is a
>different diameter), the correct pushrod to connect to the brake pedal, and
>a rebending of the lines to the master cylinder due to it's new location.
>You'd also need to plug the port on the intake manifold used to feed vacuum
>to the power booster.
>
But if you are going from manual drum to manual disc would you need the
correct pushrod?

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@onexinc.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 09:53:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: 9/20 12th Annual Mid-Ohio Show and Swap Meet (fwd)

The Mid-Ohio Chapter of OCA invites all OLDSMOBILES (regardless of shape,
size or condition) to the 12th Annual Car Show and Swap Meet on Sunday
Septemver 20th. 1998.. To be held at the Andersons at Rt161 ans Sawmill
Ro in Columbus, Ohio.  Registration 8;30 to 11:30 Awards at 4:00

Music, food etc and fun for all.  Point Judging per OCA guidelines for 34
classes.. Special awards ...Good Oldsmobiling...

Call 614=764-9668 or 614-890-7476 for more info or email me direct. Hope
to see you there!!!


 Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 09:57:10 -0400
From: "Shokouhi, Mike" <ShokouhM@nasd.com>
Subject: Power Steering Services, anybody use them?

I used the rebuild service and have been happy with the results, just
make sure that you paint any of the parts that they have not - so they
don't start rusting.
The guy definitely knows his stuff.

Mike Shokouhi


Date: Sat, 12 Sep 1998 19:07:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff & Sherie Stanish <stanishj@svpal.org>
Subject: Power Steering Services, anybody use them?

Has any one used Power Steering Services Springfield MO.
to rebuild their Steering Gearbox?
Pleased with their work? etc?

Jeff Stanish

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 07:55:39 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: names

>My book says it was called the Delray.

Doh!  I used to have a 55 210 Delray, how could I forget.  It was a vinyl
interior upgrade(?) in the 210 series in place of the standard cloth.  In my
original reply I was being more year specific for the 58 through late 60,s.  I
am glad we have Oldsmobiles as they are less confusing, I think.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 10:01:17 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: block thread messed up! Suggestions?

How can you fix a probem like that?
____________

George,

You need a Helicoil.  These are small coils of stainless steel wire with
the inside diameter and pitch matching the OD and pitch of the thread to be
repaired.  The wire cross section is diamond-shaped instead of round, so
you get proper threads.  Helicoils come in a kit with the appropriate tap
and installation tool, and are available at many "real" auto parts stores
(as opposed to, say, a Trak Auto).  Installation involves drilling out the
stripped hole to the proper tap drill size (the correct size for your
particular Helicoil is noted on the package - you'll need to get this drill
separately and it's usually a weird size like 29/64 or something).  Once
you've drilled it, use the tap supplied in the kit to cut the new threads
matching the outside of the HeliCoil.  Clean out the chips and install the
Helicoil using the installation tool.  Use a little Loctite on the outside
of the Helicoil to ensure it doesn't back out.  It should be screwed into
the new hole until the top end of the insert is about half a thread below
the surface of the block.  Unscrew the installation tool and use a small
punch or screwdriver to break the drive tang off of the helicoil (this is
the end of the wire which has been bent in to allow the installation tool
to drive it - it's notched to allow you to easily break it off).  At this
point you're done and the threads are likely stronger than new.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1481
*********************************
