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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1420


oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, August 11 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1420



RE: Parts 4 Sale (assortment of 53-77)
Re:  Vin Y, 9 manifolds, etc.
Re: 1984 Engine Options & LOTS O' QUESTIONS
Re: Vin Y, 9 manifolds, etc.
Re: 1984 Engine Options & LOTS O' QUESTIONS
brake drums from heaven !!
Re: 87 442 AKA Dinky Heads
Troubleshooting was: Radiator Problem
Re: AM/FM Wonderbar '68
Exhaust Manifolds
Radiator Trouble...
Re: HP question
Re: AM/FM Wonderbar '68
Re: Parts 4 Sale (assortment of 53-77)
Re: HP question
more movie oldsmobiles
Re: HP question
Re: 87 442 AKA Dinky Heads
Re: Parts 4 Sale (assortment of 53-77)
Re: baby's home! / vin number
horsepower guesstimate
1986 Vin 9
1966 Tach (Was Re: Parts 4 Sale (assortment of 53-77))
307 exhaust manifolds
ebay folks
Re: Taxable Horsepower
Re: mileage problem
RE: Radiator Problem,  Please Help.
Re: mileage problem
HTML MAIL!
'71 Vista Cruiser
re: radiator problem, please help
Re: Parts List
Re: Head IDs, dual exhaust manifolds
Olds model Stuff
Re: Yet more timing chain help
Bad news for me (Olds related)
Re: AM/FM Wonderbar '68
Re: AM/FM Wonderbar '68
Olds in BUNROUT
Re: '71 Vista Cruiser
Re: Soft Seal vs. Metro
Re: Radiator Problem,  Please Help.
Re: o-lot -of olds parts
Re: Radiator Problem, Please Help.
Re: Need assist with Electrical
Re: Parts List
Re: mail
Re: Oil Pressure Light
Re: WANT TO BUY Manuals
Re: 1984 Engine Options & LOTS O' QUESTIONS
power brake question
4.56 vs 4.11 Gearing
Re: 4.56 vs 4.11 Gearing
Re: 4.56 vs 4.11 Gearing
Distributor Woes
RE: 4.56 vs 4.11 Gearing
re: radiator problem, please help
Changing cores-Was: radiator problem
Re: Distributor Woes
Re: ebay folks
Re: radiator problem, please help

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 16:52:21 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Parts 4 Sale (assortment of 53-77)

Peter,
Just to chime in on the console tach. I have one in my
98 mounted on the floor. Looks great.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Peter Berusch [mailto:pber710840@email.msn.com]
> Sent: Monday, August 10, 1998 4:13 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Parts 4 Sale (assortment of 53-77)
>
>
> Tell me about the console mounted tach.  What does it look
> like, does it
> work?  Peter.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cnvrt67@aol.com <Cnvrt67@aol.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Monday, August 10, 1998 12:18 AM
> Subject: Parts 4 Sale (assortment of 53-77)

> >1964:
> >Consle Mounted Tach.........$100
> >
> >1965:
> >6 Piece convertible stainless steel trim set including the 1/4
> trim......$250
> >Trunklid........$100
> >Consle Mounted Tach......$100
> >
> >1966:
> >442 Grill and header panel..........$150
> >Consle Mounted Tach (early 66's)......$100

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 20:12:10 EDT
From: <JJP442@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  Vin Y, 9 manifolds, etc.

So..... in your opinion what would be the best ex- manifold for a 79 403
installing into 87 442??
Forgive me if this was answered already,
JJP442@aol.com
83 Hurst Olds
87 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 20:20:31 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: 1984 Engine Options & LOTS O' QUESTIONS

Brian Ammons wrote:

> the biggest NON-DIESEL engine that you could put in a 1984 Olds Delta 88
> was the Oldsmobile-built 307, correct?

I believe you are asking what the largest non-diesel enging is that
could have been installed at the factory.  That would be the 307.

> This is a true statement because the Chevy-built 350 that's also listed as
> an option in the owner's manual was a DIESEL, correct?

I don't have an '84 Delta owner's manual, but none of my other '83, '84
or '85 owner's manuals list a Chevy 350.  I'm not doubting you, but I
can't find this reference.  Where, specifically, is it?  As other have
agreed, 350 Diesels were Oldsmobile motors, not Chevrolet motors.

> You could NOT order a normally-aspirated (not the correct term, but oh
> well) Olds OR Chevy OR anybody else built 350 in a 198~ Delta 88 or 98,
> correct?

Not in 1984, correct.

> And...what letter body is a Delta 88?  Is it a B-body, G-body, etc?

Yes, it's a B-body.  G-bodies were the Cutlass Supreme family.

> How about a 98?

That would be a C-body.  Just for the record, Firenzas were J-bodies,
Omegas were X-bodies, Cutlass Cieras were A-bodies and Toronados were
E-bodies.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 20:27:34 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Vin Y, 9 manifolds, etc.

In a message dated 98-08-10 20:23:54 EDT, you write:

<< So..... in your opinion what would be the best ex- manifold for a 79 403
 installing into 87 442??
 Forgive me if this was answered already,
 JJP442@aol.com
 83 Hurst Olds
 87 442 >>


 The factory 403 manifolds worked fine in my '86 Salon.   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 20:32:50 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: 1984 Engine Options & LOTS O' QUESTIONS

Oldsmagnet wrote:

> Also available was the 260 Olds diesel, in books as V8, but some have
speculated > a V6 diesel, too.  No verification on that, though.

Verification you got.

The Olds 260 V8 Diesel was available as in option in 1979 ONLY on
Cutlass models except Cruisers.  They started using the 350 in these
models in '80.  The Olds 260 V6 Diesel was available starting in 1982 on
Cutlass Ciera and Cutlass Supreme models.  It was also available in
Ninety Eight Regencys in '85.  All Diesels were discontinued for '86.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 20:32:08 EDT
From: <MFATZII@aol.com>
Subject: brake drums from heaven !!

     Well with all replies to the previous "brake drums from hell"  I must
thank all that helped...Boy do I feel dumb...I have a 56 shop manual but it
didn't mention anything about how the front drums come off.  So I talked to
the guy that had the car before me, turns out that a few of you were right,
the center nut removes the hub, drum and bolts all in one piece along with the
bearing... Sheesh, thanks for the help folks it is appreciated !!  Believe it
or not, I had the center cap off twice but was reluctant to remove all the
grease and nut. (I thought...I've never heard of this...surely this ain't how
the drum comes off...)  Oh well, I can't go work on the car til the weekend
again, but I'm sure they will fall right off in my hands...maybe I should get
a newer car with disk brakes....


Ryan (MFatzII@aol.com)
Lincoln,   Nebraska  (Home of the Cornhuskers, too bad they suck !)

56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project Rocket)
<A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click here</A>
85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
89 Chevy Beretta CL

   888                888
  8      8           8       8
8          8       8           8
  8      8           8       8
    8  8               8   8           LIVES
  8      8           8       8
8          8       8           8
  8     8            8       8
    888                888

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 20:37:04 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@viperlink.net>
Subject: Re: 87 442 AKA Dinky Heads

KWhite5590@aol.com wrote:
>
> To all interested in this debate over the dinky heads please visit 442.com's
> FAQ. There is lots of  motor info to be found in there,including the G-body
> cars.

Been there, done that (even got the text faq for my personal reading
experience, although my past roommate did not feel that it made awesome
bathroom reading material)

My question is what is the difference VISUALLY between the Stainless
steel exhaust manifolds, and the cast manifolds...  The topic comes
around once in a while, and some guys "I got these" or "I got those"...

I have no clue how to tell the two apart.
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 20:51:16 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Troubleshooting was: Radiator Problem

In a message dated 98-08-10 13:45:39 EDT, you write:

<< In response to previous replies saying this, we have indicated we have new
 caps and thermostats and waterpumps (no sarcasm intended). >>

None taken.

I also intend no malice by;

You cannot assuming that anything new or out of the box is completely
trustworthy.

Witness the illustrious Greg Beaulieu who at one time bought (one after the
other) two brand new coils. Neither one was any good.

If you are having problems, do not ignore any potential causes.

But then, it's your car.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 20:54:40 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: AM/FM Wonderbar '68

Jeffrey lane wrote:
>
> Just to be sure, I don't remember who told em about the AM/FM wonderbar
> radio on eBay, but you said it would not fit my '67 Toronado.  Why is
> this???  The radio is 6 3/8" from center to center, as is the AM in my
> Toro.  If this radio will fit my dash, I need it.  So is everyone sure
> that it wont fit?
>
> The only reason I ask is because I am desperate for an AM/FM radio. So
> help me out...

Jeff,

That was me.  I know that this radio looks very similar to the one
currently in your car.  The difference is in the faceplate.  Toronado
radios have a slanted faceplate, to match the hard slant of the
dashboard.  On a full size car, which this radio is from, the dashboards
are also slanted, but the radio area is recessed and flat, and those
radios use a flat faceplate.  If you had two side by side you'd see the
difference immediately.  To get a better idea of what I mean, look at
your radio knob bezels.  Ther're real fat at the bottom and skinny at
the top, right?  That is the same angle that your radio faceplate has
behind the dashboard.

Paul

- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 18:01:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: Exhaust Manifolds

     Someone was wondering if the big block left side exhaust manifold
(the 'X' version) would work on a small block. IT WON'T. I know, I
tried to put one on a 350 and it HITS THE STARTER.
     Hope this helps :)

==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our Oldsmobiles and more at
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 21:08:08 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Radiator Trouble...

Been reading about your dilemmas,

I think I recent solved a similar problem in my Ninety Eight.

My water pump was replaced in '95 due to a bad bearing.  All hoses were
replaced at this time as well as all clamps.

Noticed the car starting to "spit up" last year.  Went the rad cap and
t-stat route but the problem remained.  Did a system flush with new
coolant installed and the problem didn't go away.

After experiencing this trouble on the trip to Springfield last month
(it can be rather embarrasing - "Hey, you know your car's overheating?")
I decided it was time to get serious.  I replaced the fan clutch.  And
the problem still remained!

So I pulled the radiator, threw it in the back of my truck (on a nice,
soft blanket, so as not to mar the new paint) and took it to the
radiator shop.  When I removed it from the bed of the truck, there was
all kinds of dead bugs and junk on the blanket that had been jarred
loose by the 25 mile drive to work.  The shop looked the radiator over,
said the flow was fine, but they found that both transmission cooler
lines were leaking and that two of the tube were leaking.  Yeah, right,
leaks, I didn't have any leaks.  There was no antifreeze coming from
this car anywhere, except for the overflow hose.  So I paid the $47
bill, took the radiator home and chalked the experience up to a waste of
time and money.  And my problem went away...

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 19:24:18 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: HP question

Uncle needs to quickly seek the counsel of a rational man.  Wrong on both
counts.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: D Frizsell <dfrizsell@WCUVAX1.WCU.EDU>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 10, 1998 11:54 AM
Subject: HP question


>While we're on this horsepower train, I was told something this weekend I
find
>hard to believe. My uncle just bought the '71 S off me and wants to replace
the
>smoking, stock 350 with a 455. A '70 455 to be exact. He was having a time
>finding one so he settled for a '73 455. He was told by a "mechanic" that
the '73
>445 delivered the same HP as the '70 model did. Has anyone ever heard this
>before? I always thought HP decreased considerably by then. I figured this
is the
>place to get the final ruling on this vicious rumor! He was also told to
leave
>the 350 turbo trans instead of going to the 400. He was told the 350
outperforms
>the 400 when driven by the 455 motor. Again I went, "What!?"
>
>I await the wisdom of.."The List!!"
>
>Thanks
>D-man
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 21:24:23 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: AM/FM Wonderbar '68

Paul Hartlieb wrote:
>
> Jeffrey lane wrote:
> >
> > Just to be sure, I don't remember who told em about the AM/FM wonderbar
> > radio on eBay, but you said it would not fit my '67 Toronado.  Why is
> > this???  The radio is 6 3/8" from center to center, as is the AM in my
> > Toro.  If this radio will fit my dash, I need it.  So is everyone sure
> > that it wont fit?
> >
> > The only reason I ask is because I am desperate for an AM/FM radio. So
> > help me out...

Jeff,

I stand corrected.  I did a little research and this is what I found.

The listing on ebay says:

1968 Oldsmobile Factory AM/FM Wonder Bar Radio with Original Knobs. I'm
told this is for a
68 Oldsmobile, but I'm not 100% sure - the original Delco sticker is on
it, and it reads 'Model
7303243, Serial 00928-3W'. It is a hard to find option for your 442 or
Cutlass.

I found this in the February '92 issue of Journey With Olds with the
article "A Decade of Olds Radios":

Radio #7303243, year 1968, car Toronado, radio type AM-FM Wonderbar.

So there you have it.  It should fit your '67.  Hurry up and bid.  Sorry
to mislead you.  I originally thought I say the word Toronado in the
title (but it was in the title ABOVE the radio).  I should have checked
the model number before shooting off my mouth.

Paul

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 21:31:02 EDT
From: <Cnvrt67@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Parts 4 Sale (assortment of 53-77)

its black and kinda wide width wise. yes it does work. its a nice feature to
add to your cutlass. $100.

Brent

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 18:32:49 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: HP question

 He was also told to leave
>the 350 turbo trans instead of going to the 400. He was told the 350
outperforms
>the 400 when driven by the 455 motor. Again I went, "What!?"
>

not sure what he means by "outperfoms" but a 350 rebuilt by someone good WILL
live behind a 455. it is also a lighter transmission.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 18:26:18 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: more movie oldsmobiles

in the beginning of Close Encounters of the Third Kind
when the power is going out they show a pic of Mcdonalds
and pulling up is a 68 or 69 cutlass or 442 silver with ssII I believe
only for a second but a nice car none the less...kk

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 18:31:44 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: HP question

th350 has better gear rats for drag racing and will live for a while behind
a 455 but the case wont live behind a very powerfull one trust  me I know
from Experience and the th350 was from Kenne- Bell it was a good one...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 10, 1998 6:39 PM
Subject: Re: HP question


> He was also told to leave
>>the 350 turbo trans instead of going to the 400. He was told the 350
>outperforms
>>the 400 when driven by the 455 motor. Again I went, "What!?"
>>
>
>not sure what he means by "outperfoms" but a 350 rebuilt by someone good
WILL
>live behind a 455. it is also a lighter transmission.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 21:50:38 EDT
From: <Sx455@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 87 442 AKA Dinky Heads

i have a 87 442 vin code 9, i removed the dinky swirl prt 307 and installed a
"regular" 350 . the 307 did have the dinky intake manifold but the exhaust
manifolds were the regular cast iron rectangular style mated to the dinky rond
exhaust ports on the swirl port engine. sx455

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 22:08:45 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Parts 4 Sale (assortment of 53-77)

I've got a '71 Cutlass droptop with buckets and center console.  I think
that if it were pretty that it would look good on the console.  I hadn't
considered a 98.  Hmmmm.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 10, 1998 7:52 PM
Subject: RE: Parts 4 Sale (assortment of 53-77)


>Peter,
>Just to chime in on the console tach. I have one in my
>98 mounted on the floor. Looks great.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Peter Berusch [mailto:pber710840@email.msn.com]
>> Sent: Monday, August 10, 1998 4:13 PM
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: Parts 4 Sale (assortment of 53-77)
>>
>>
>> Tell me about the console mounted tach.  What does it look
>> like, does it
>> work?  Peter.
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Cnvrt67@aol.com <Cnvrt67@aol.com>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>> Date: Monday, August 10, 1998 12:18 AM
>> Subject: Parts 4 Sale (assortment of 53-77)
>
>> >1964:
>> >Consle Mounted Tach.........$100
>> >
>> >1965:
>> >6 Piece convertible stainless steel trim set including the 1/4
>> trim......$250
>> >Trunklid........$100
>> >Consle Mounted Tach......$100
>> >
>> >1966:
>> >442 Grill and header panel..........$150
>> >Consle Mounted Tach (early 66's)......$100

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 22:16:08 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: baby's home! / vin number

> >How many 68 Cutlass S conv. were built?
>
> Not sure, prolly thousands
>
13,668 were built...
> Chris Smetana
> Terre Haute, IN
> work: csmetana@dowagro.com
> home: chris@abcs.com ... it finally works again
>
> 1969 W-31 currently under the knife for tranny work
> 1969 4-4-2 parts car
> plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 19:15:26 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: horsepower guesstimate

Now that the engine is being put together, Finally all those parts are here,
anyone have any guesses as to what HP this setup will produce?

Olds 350 cid of 1975 vintage .030" overbore but other wise stock shortblock
stock 7A heads (subscript A, not 307 heads)
Edelbrock camshaft  280/290 (204/214 at .050")
Edelbrock performer  #1406 600 CFM  carb with 7/8" spreadbore adaptor
Edelbrock performer #3711 intake
Accell HEI distributor

BTW: even with the adaptor, this is still 1 1/2" shorter than the
Performer RPM manifold.

Not that it matter to much for HP, but it will be infront of a th350 with a
 2100 RPM
convertor

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 22:29:34 -0400
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: 1986 Vin 9

Message text written by Angel
>I have a 1986 442 with a VIN 9 307 BUT with 5A heads and corresponding
accesories<

What is different about the 5A head/engine accessories? I haven't seen one
so I don't know what else to look for other than the 5A cast onto the head.

What is the number on your carburetor?  That will helpo identify engine
year.

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma, Ohio
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E & 4L60-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'96 DCM Impala SS (Naisso #1365)  '87 Olds Cutlass 442 (OCA #028505)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 22:37:06 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: 1966 Tach (Was Re: Parts 4 Sale (assortment of 53-77))

Listmembers,

If we're talking about the tach that could be found on the 1966 Cutlass/442
console, I did something with one and also with the vacuum gauge.  On my 70
Cutlass Supreme SX, I fabricated some braces that allowed me to install them
outside in the louvers at the back of the hood.  I attached the light wires so
they would come on with the dash lights and several people thought they came
on the car that way! (so they weren't too smart on Oldsmobiles - I liked
fooling them)  With the pair of them out there, it made quite a statement.
But that was 1980, another time, another place, another girl, another guy,
another guitar............oops, thought I was on The Rainmakers list for a
minute.  Sorry.

Have a quality evening, and Take Care!
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 22:59:35 -0400
From: "deirdre. reilly" <102724.635@compuserve.com>
Subject: 307 exhaust manifolds

It seems this topic popped up again.  I have some casting numbers around
here somewhere for the cast iron manifolds.  Let me look.....

ok back again.  I thought I saved this so I wouldn't have to retype it if
it came up again.  Oh well.

I do not know too much about the tubular manifolds.  There is a noticeable
difference in design between the two, externally.  However, I don't know
port sizes or flow characteristics.  Cast mans.  look like an odd shaped
log,  tubular mans look like a piece of plumbing pipe stuck to the side of
your motor.

I had cast mans on the 7A (small port) heads on my '85 307, and the ports
on the exhaust man. were the larger rectangular shape and not the round
(quarter size) to match the head.

Now not knowing this, I went to a salvage yard and bought cast manifolds
from an early '80s delta 88 with the 5A (large port) 307 heads.  Low and
behold... they were the same.

here's the casting identifications:
the * denotes a * design with a circle around it

Delta 88                        My '85 Cutlass

driver side
(up front)
1                               14
*D                              *D
Y                               Y

(Towards back)
24                              22503678
411961                          8

Passenger side
(up front)
17                              17
Y

(towards back)
*D                              *D
17                              15
22506300RH                      (casting number too rusty or not there)

So there are similar casting numbers on each set even though they were
installed on different cars, with different heads, severeal years apart.

If anyone else wants more info please e-mail me direct and I'l se what I
can do.

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'83 Cutlass Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 23:06:59, -0500
From: GQPR12E@prodigy.com ( CLAYTON PIERCE)
Subject: ebay folks

Well all... a bit behind in my e-mail... been working a bunch and
been sick (fever... aches... pains... nausea... dizziness... you
really don't want to know... I slept for like 30 hours in the last 3
days or so)... anyways...

Noticed a bunch of Ebay auction related mail... somebody mentioned
they didn't want to outbid a listmember... well I occasionally bid on
this that or the other... just letting everyone know my name... I use
"rovernut"  (don't ask... has to do with my '80 Rover 3500... been
using that name on the internet since high school... hey... have YOU
ever found anyone else that goes by rovernut? ;-)  it's unique...)

Anyways... just though I'd tell ya... so if you see I'm about to get
something really cool cheap... don't outbid me ;-)  Unless it's
something for your particular year model car... then go ahead and
outbid me...

Peace,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
GQPR12E@Prodigy.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 22:12:59 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin@csg.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Taxable Horsepower

Ok, to make it simple, taxable HP has NOTHING to do with what your engine puts
out. (I am sure you are all relieved...) It is a simple formula based on the
BORE of the engine, and a couple of other things.  My 301 Turbo Trans AM has 51
taxable HP, and my 76 Delta had 52. They have a 301 vs a 350.  170 vs 210 hp.
I am not sure, but (Bore X number of cyl X 3.14159)/2.  Or something similar.

I can try to dig, but there is a simple formula that can calculate it.
Basically if you have a GNX and a Vega and a 500 Caddy, no matter what you do,
the GNX will lose in taxable HP to the Caddy.  The Vega and GNX will be very
close, but the number of cyl will be a muiltiplier.

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC Ram Air

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 23:24:22 EDT
From: <KENSOLDS9@aol.com>
Subject: Re: mileage problem

hi john, do you know something about a 69 h/o in palm springs that was for
sail?  please, fill me in   thanks  ken

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 22:29:50 -0500
From: Jodie Martin <nhzlv@pensys.com>
Subject: RE: Radiator Problem,  Please Help.

Something I have preached many of times before.  Do not forget the over
obvious things like the control arm flaps and the air dam under the raditator.
 If these are missing they will cause overheating due to lack of airflow.  I
don't care if you have a radiator from a Cummins 855 CID Turbo Diesel, you
will overheat if you don't get enough air through it.

The air dam forces air to go thru the radiator, the flaps prevent the high
pressure air from the wheels spinning from creating a high pressure under the
hood making the air stagnant at the radiator.

Do not forget the shroud, you MUST have one, and the blades need to be approx
3/4 of the way into the shroud.  If you don't have one, get one, it will be
the best money your engine will ever see!  If it is not there the fan will
just beat the air from around it, not pull it thru the rad.  The standard 6 or
7 blade belt driven clutch fan has around 3000 CFM, or more, that is better
than just about ANY electric fans.

Make sure your fan clutch is not freewheeling.  It will overheat at slow
speeds and not at highway.

If the coolant moves too fast it can overheat as it does not have time to cool
the air for the time is spends in the radiator.

REMEMBER:  It did not overheat as delivered from the factory, return to that
configuration, and then go from there.

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC Ram Air

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 23:31:13 EDT
From: <KENSOLDS9@aol.com>
Subject: Re: mileage problem

so mad i wrote sail insted of sale,   sorry

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 22:39:10 -0500
From: Jodie Martin <nhzlv@pensys.com>
Subject: HTML MAIL!

PLEASE STOP SENDING HTML MAIL TO THE LIST!   IT IS A REAL PAIN IN THE @$$.  If
you have Netscape mail, check the preferences setting and deselect "By default
send HTML mail"
If you have other email programs, please check and verify that HTML mail is
not sent.
And don't quote HTML back on a reply!

Thank you
Thomas Martin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 23:44:57 -0400
From: Kyle Roe <karoe@us.ibm.com>
Subject: '71 Vista Cruiser

80K Original miles, orginal paint, white top, blue body and that nice faux
wood. Minor dings, rust on lower fenders rear of wheelwell, ps, pb, tilt, a/c,
AM only, Mint dash, 3 seats, #'s match 455, W/Z manifolds, always a Colorado
car,     $2500 obo.

karoe@us.ibm.com
303-773-5591

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 23:46:55, -0500
From: GQPR12E@prodigy.com ( CLAYTON PIERCE)
Subject: re: radiator problem, please help

I believe that I have the same problem as the two of you do with my
'65 Pontiac Bonneville... major difference is that the cause of my
problem is MUCH more obvious... at shut-off the radiator will start
venting out of the spill hose... and at the same time... will start
venting out of a leak at the top seam on the d-side of the radiator...
 I'm wondering if you might have a very small hole in your radiator
somewhere... I do have a problem with overheating... but only if I
run the car for a longer period of time that say... oh... 15 to 20
minutes or so... or am in traffic or not otherwise on an open road...
otherwise it doesn't overheat... just vents with I cut the motor off
(cause = rising temp after shutdown? maybe lack of coolent flow after
shutoff? what?).  I would suggest having your radiator pressure
tested... and perhaps boiled out... then any imperfections or
problems fixed.

BTW, am not driving the Poncho much until I get it fixed...

My '74 350 that's in my '84 Cutlass originally had the head-gasket
problem described... but after replacing the original head-gaskets...
no-mo problems... assuming that each of you did NOT reuse the
original gaskets when you rebuilt your motor ;-)

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
GQPR12E@Prodigy.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 23:53:17 EDT
From: <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Parts List

jim     need parts from 70-2 am-fm   do you have any junks..

where are you going to be at charlotte   the mud field ?????

let me know    thanks   jeff...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 20:55:04 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Head IDs, dual exhaust manifolds

Mike Jones wrote:

> Just curious, anybody have the head ID codes for a pair of heads that came
> from a '67 442?  The car had C heads.  I grabbed the intake and said heads
> a few months ago.


Mike,
1967 4-4-2 heads (C) have the following stamping codes:
All 4 bbl (incl. W-30):   V2xxxxxG
2 bbl. (Turnpike Cruiser Cutlass):   V2xxxxx

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 20:15:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: JM <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Olds model Stuff

- ---Hello everyone,

       With all the talk about the model stuff today, I went
digging.If anyone has a Johan (70 442) that they want to convert I
HAVE a stripe kit for W-30/W-31 in black and white(same sheet) , also
a Rallye 350 stripe kit.I called the hobby store and the owner told me
the convertible conversion, the 68 conversion, and the W30 hood and
rear wing are all still avail.They also offer a 70 Pace car stripe
set, and a 74 H/o stripe kit.The 72 H/O stripes aren't in the book
anymore,but he said he'd check on avail on all items on fri,when he
places his new order.
                 John



==
mailto:super442@yahoo.com           ICQ # 16956740
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73--http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof--307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 00:11:14 -0400
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Re: Yet more timing chain help

Love this high-tech mechanical/ geometry stuff.

Just did an HEI replacement with success, after some iterations with
advance.  I wonder how you know that the thing is firing the spark at the
same time the rotor is pointing at the target on the cap?  I realize the
terminals are pretty wide, so some error is acceptable, but if you were off
1/2 notch, this would not be good.  I've heard of a thing called indexing
the dist- how does one adjust this?

- -----Original Message-----
From: Joe Padavano <joe_padavano@rocketmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 10, 1998 12:13 AM
Subject: Re: Yet more timing chain help


>Sorry, coming in late (out disassembling the parts car all weekend):
>
>From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
>
> For example...
>You wear ou HEI caps and rotors because...
>maybe they are not properly aligned when they fire?
>(Karl only know points)
>______________
>
>Uh, Karl, the cap and rotor part of an HEI work just like the ones for
points,
>they're just a big rotary switch.  Just think of the metal pole piece
inside
>the HEI (thats the torroidal part with eight points around it's OD) as the
cam
>for the points in a point distributor.
>
>===============
>
>Joe Padavano?
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 00:11:13 EDT
From: <Cnvrt67@aol.com>
Subject: Bad news for me (Olds related)

well listies........bad news. here in north eastern ohio, cleveland area, we
had some bad rain the other night which caused some flooding. well at my dad's
house which is in strongesville,ohio, he got major flooding. this is because
of drainage ditch runs offs and such.

so anyways.....3 feet of water in the basement. 3 feet of water in the garage.
in the garage is where the 72 cutlass supreme convertible lives, not a good
thing. so since the water was so high........it got high enough so that the
water flowed in the dual exhaust and flooded the engine.......oil looked like
choclate milk. also got inside the car, water came up just about to the bottom
of the bench seat. good news is that he was able to drain the engine fast
enough to save it. so he just has to replace some carpet and other little
things.

Now the Very Bad News..............

in the garage was also where a rebuilt 455 was. this thing took on alot of
water. not sure if it can be saved cause there was oil in it. BUT EVEN WORSE
is that the 71 350 4bbl which was gonna be takin out of there THURSDAY and be
put into MY CAR took on water also. good news is that it had oil in it. so
hopefully tommorow when it is takin to the engine shop it will be saved. pray
for me people.

i just thought i would share this with everyone. and if you happen to live in
the cleveland area and saw fox news........ it was the main story at 6 and was
also on at 10.

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible........hopefully with a 71 350
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/Cnvrt67/index.html">
http://members.aol.com/Cnvrt67/index.html</A>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 00:53:26 -0400
From: Jeffrey lane <bladernr@roava.net>
Subject: Re: AM/FM Wonderbar '68

Ahhh...  me understand now...  I couldnt see taht from the pic on
eBay...  thanks...

Paul Hartlieb wrote:
>
> Jeffrey lane wrote:
> >
> > Just to be sure, I don't remember who told em about the AM/FM wonderbar
> > radio on eBay, but you said it would not fit my '67 Toronado.  Why is
> > this???  The radio is 6 3/8" from center to center, as is the AM in my
> > Toro.  If this radio will fit my dash, I need it.  So is everyone sure
> > that it wont fit?
> >
> > The only reason I ask is because I am desperate for an AM/FM radio. So
> > help me out...
>
> Jeff,
>
> That was me.  I know that this radio looks very similar to the one
> currently in your car.  The difference is in the faceplate.  Toronado
> radios have a slanted faceplate, to match the hard slant of the
> dashboard.  On a full size car, which this radio is from, the dashboards
> are also slanted, but the radio area is recessed and flat, and those
> radios use a flat faceplate.  If you had two side by side you'd see the
> difference immediately.  To get a better idea of what I mean, look at
> your radio knob bezels.  Ther're real fat at the bottom and skinny at
> the top, right?  That is the same angle that your radio faceplate has
> behind the dashboard.
>
> Paul
>
> --
> Paul Hartlieb
> Myerstown, PA
> mailto:plh@nbn.net

- --
><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> 67 Toronado  ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><>

Jeffrey Lane, EMT-ST	ICQ#12362327	http://www.roava.net/~bladernr
			bladernr@roava.net 	EMTBoy9@aol.com


Sr. Sergeant, Equipment Officer	|	EMT-ST/Driver
Fort Lewis Rescue Squad, Inc.		|	United Ambulance Service
Salem, Virginia				|	Roanoke, Virginia

"Knowledge is power.  But power corrupts, and corruption is a sin, so if
you seek knowledge, you will burn in hell. . ."

- -------------------------------Carpe
Noctum------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 00:55:44 -0400
From: Jeffrey lane <bladernr@roava.net>
Subject: Re: AM/FM Wonderbar '68

Even better than my last message!!!  I will...  Thanks a lot...  this is
getting to be fun... heh ehh

Paul Hartlieb wrote:
>
> Paul Hartlieb wrote:

> Jeff,
>
> I stand corrected.  I did a little research and this is what I found.
>
> The listing on ebay says:
>
> it, and it reads 'Model
> 7303243, Serial 00928-3W'. It is a hard to find option for your 442 or
> Cutlass.
>
> I found this in the February '92 issue of Journey With Olds with the
> article "A Decade of Olds Radios":
>
> Radio #7303243, year 1968, car Toronado, radio type AM-FM Wonderbar.
>
> So there you have it.  It should fit your '67.  Hurry up and bid.  Sorry
> to mislead you.  I originally thought I say the word Toronado in the
> title (but it was in the title ABOVE the radio).  I should have checked
> the model number before shooting off my mouth.

- --
><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> 67 Toronado  ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><>

Jeffrey Lane, EMT-ST	ICQ#12362327	http://www.roava.net/~bladernr
			bladernr@roava.net 	EMTBoy9@aol.com


Sr. Sergeant, Equipment Officer	|	EMT-ST/Driver
Fort Lewis Rescue Squad, Inc.		|	United Ambulance Service
Salem, Virginia				|	Roanoke, Virginia

"Knowledge is power.  But power corrupts, and corruption is a sin, so if
you seek knowledge, you will burn in hell. . ."

- -------------------------------Carpe
Noctum------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 01:18:05 -0400
From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: Olds in BUNROUT

- --------------AD91646909E95BAD149C6040
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hey all,

For any of you who are into the drag racing sim "BURNOUT" by Bethesda
Software, a new car pack has just been released.  the Simulated Hot Rod
Association has released a pack of about 27 cars or so as an addon to
the game.  The cars are only repaints, so they're not that original, but
the reason why I'm telling you all this is becase car number 17 is none
other than a 1970 Olds 442...or a repaint of the GTO.  Unfortunately,
someone had a boo-boo.  Its a black 442 w/ White hood stripes, but they
continue down the length of the car, trunk and all, ending at the rear
spoiler....that's ok because there is also an aftermarket paint program
to fix it all up.

The SHRA can be laocated at:        http://www.shra.com
and the cars can be downloaded from:
http://www.shra.com/bleachbox/carpack/carpack21.html

Happy racing!

Daniel R. Gerow

- --
- ---------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
WSHL General Manager
http://www.stonehill.edu/wshl
http://www.stonehill.edu/~dgerow
- ---------------------------------


- --------------AD91646909E95BAD149C6040
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML>
Hey all,

<P>For any of you who are into the drag racing sim "BURNOUT" by Bethesda
Software, a new car pack has just been released.&nbsp; the Simulated Hot
Rod Association has released a pack of about 27 cars or so as an addon
to the game.&nbsp; The cars are only repaints, so they're not that original,
but the reason why I'm telling you all this is becase car number 17 is
none other than a 1970 Olds 442...or a repaint of the GTO.&nbsp; Unfortunately,
someone had a boo-boo.&nbsp; Its a black 442 w/ White hood stripes, but
they continue down the length of the car, trunk and all, ending at the
rear spoiler....that's ok because there is also an aftermarket paint program
to fix it all up.

<P>The SHRA can be laocated at:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<A HREF="http://www.shra.com">http://www.shra.com</A>
<BR>and the cars can be downloaded from:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <A
HREF="http://www.shra.com/bleachbox/carpack/carpack21.html
">http://www.shra.com/
bleachbox/carpack/carpack21.html</A><A
HREF="http://www.shra.com/bleachbox/carpack/carpack21.html"></A>

<P>Happy racing!

<P>Daniel R. Gerow

<P>--
<BR>---------------------------------
<BR>Daniel R. Gerow
<BR>WSHL General Manager
<BR><A HREF="http://www.stonehill.edu/wshl">http://www.stonehill.edu/wshl</A>
<BR><A
HREF="http://www.stonehill.edu/~dgerow">http://www.stonehill.edu/~dgerow</A>
<BR>--------------------------------- <BR>&nbsp;</HTML>

- --------------AD91646909E95BAD149C6040--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 01:18:01 EDT
From: <David1756@aol.com>
Subject: Re: '71 Vista Cruiser

Definitely interested in your car - where in Colorado?  I have friends in
Boulder area but otherwise no other contacts there, and would like to arrange
to have someone I know see the car - or you could send pictures.  If there is
a way to keep CO plates on the car, is it in good enough condition to be
driven to Chicago?  I have business trip planned for Denver and could be there
sometime in the next 2-3 weeks.

Thanks - David

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 01:21:17 EDT
From: <Socalolds@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Soft Seal vs. Metro

Ed,
They have a 100% $$ back guarantee, take advantage of it. What was it ordered
for?
Dennis

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 01:11:52 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Radiator Problem,  Please Help.

This is what you can do to stop the problem:
1> Replace 180 thermostat with 160 degree..(car will run in the 180 range
which is optimum)
2>Replace flex fan with factory original metal fan (Olds motors don't work
good with Flex Fans) get a 5 or 6 blade fan
3>Get a new clutch fan, either thermostatic heavy duty or non-thermostatic
heavy duty.
4>Make sure fan shroud is in place correctly
5>Replace radiator cap


Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Johnson, Sam <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
> To: 'Oldsmobile' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Radiator Problem,  Please Help.
> Date: Monday, August 10, 1998 6:45 AM
>
> My Antifreeze runs back into my overflow and out to the ground when I
turn
> my car off.  A lot of antifreeze comes out too and I don't know what to
do.
> The car run at about 200 degrees and I got a high performance 180 degree
> thermostat.  I also have a tree core radiator. What should I do.
>
> Thanks in advance for your help.
> ======================
> Sam E. Johnson, JR.
> >  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
> >1971 Cutlass S 455
> >Westside! Chitown IL
> 14 Wins 11 Losses
> ======================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 02:39:19 EDT
From: <KWhite5590@aol.com>
Subject: Re: o-lot -of olds parts

  >82 Cutlass Supreme chome trim
I happen to have the ROCKER TRIM that you are looking for oof of my 83.I'm
turning the car into a FE3X clone so I don"t need it.Make me an offer.
Kevin
KWhite5590@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 02:48:39 EDT
From: <KWhite5590@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Radiator Problem, Please Help.

Fan clutches have a viscous fluid in them if they are bad the fluid will leak
out.Check the front of the clutch for signs of a leak before you replace it.
KWhite5590@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 03:03:43 EDT
From: <KWhite5590@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Need assist with Electrical

What year is the car? Check the rear light connector harness near the fuse
block.On my 83 Cutlass I have done alot of electrical work(alarm,stereo)too
much at times.Found out that the wires for the rear lights are solid core
single conductor wire, if you fool with it too much it will break very
easily.BE CAREFUL!! 12 volts doesn't seem like much, but as the speed its
moving it HURTS!
KWhite5590@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 06:11:50 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Parts List

Jeff

        I have no AM/FM stuff right now. Nobody will be in the mud field
during the  fall Charlotte meet. It's all inside. That's what they told me
earlier this year.

Jim

At 11:53 PM 8/10/1998 EDT, you wrote:
>jim     need parts from 70-2 am-fm   do you have any junks..
>
>where are you going to be at charlotte   the mud field ?????
>
>let me know    thanks   jeff...
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 06:51:29 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: mail

>please stop sending me e-mail
>

no

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 07:29:41 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Light

Subject: Oil Pressure Light


>Just got a 72 Cutlass with 350. After 7 to 10 miles of driving the idiot
light
>for oil pressure starts to flicker off and on when coming to a stop.

Bummer. Bearings worn. Use 20-50W and change it every 2000 mi until you get
around to a rebuild.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 07:32:18 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: WANT TO BUY Manuals

Subject: WANT TO BUY Manuals


>Once upon a time (when my grandfather & my father both owned 84s) Grandaddy
>had a cardboard box that he bought with his car, and inside said box were
>three shop manuals - 2 big blue ones and a much thinner white paper one.


Ummm...nobody's gonna have Grandaddy's box-o-books, but manuals are still
available from Helm Publications. They have a 1-800 number (search the web
for Helm Publications). Typical price is $60 plus shipping.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 07:36:57 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: 1984 Engine Options & LOTS O' QUESTIONS

>I would like someone else to please confirm...
>
>the biggest NON-DIESEL engine that you could put in a 1984 Olds Delta 88
>was the Oldsmobile-built 307, correct?


"Put" in there, no. Order from the factory, yes.

>This is a true statement because the Chevy-built 350 that's also listed as
>an option in the owner's manual was a DIESEL, correct?


The 5.7 ltr V-8 option was an Olds 350 diesel.

>You could NOT order a normally-aspirated (not the correct term, but oh
>well) Olds OR Chevy OR anybody else built 350 in a 198~ Delta 88 or 98,
>correct?


Correct. 231 v-6, 5.0 L (307 ci) v-8 or 5.7 L (350) Diesel.

>And...what letter body is a Delta 88?  Is it a B-body, G-body, etc?  How


88's are B-Bodies. Dunno about 98's.


drc

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 07:37:02 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: power brake question

List,
        I replaced my master cylinder on my drum-drum PB 67' Cutlass.
I know have a "whoosh" sound when I hit the brakes .  I have not driven the
car - just bled the brakes. Has my power booster been
compromised ???

Tanks
 The General

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 06:41:26 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: 4.56 vs 4.11 Gearing

Has anybody with an Olds 455 ever run a 4.56 gearing in their car? Did you
have the 4.11s first?  If you did, which do you like best? What are your rpm
shift points?  And what size tires?  Sorry for all the questions, but I am
thinking about going to a 4.56.  I have a 4.11 in right now and my car shift
point is 5500 and my tire size is 275 50 R 15s.  I wanted to know if I could
handle a 4.56

Thanks
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
14 Wins 11 Losses
======================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 08:00:14 -0400
From: Joseph Gambaccini <jgambaccini@ci.richmond.va.us>
Subject: Re: 4.56 vs 4.11 Gearing

what's inside your 455???  i guy in town has one with 11:1 compression,
ported heads, high stall (i think 3500) and 4.56's: 12.3's at 110mph.
i'm not sure about his shifts and tires though...


Johnson, Sam wrote:
>
> Has anybody with an Olds 455 ever run a 4.56 gearing in their car? Did you
> have the 4.11s first?  If you did, which do you like best? What are your rpm
> shift points?  And what size tires?  Sorry for all the questions, but I am
> thinking about going to a 4.56.  I have a 4.11 in right now and my car shift
> point is 5500 and my tire size is 275 50 R 15s.  I wanted to know if I could
> handle a 4.56
>
> Thanks
> ======================
> Sam E. Johnson, JR.
> >  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
> >1971 Cutlass S 455
> >Westside! Chitown IL
> 14 Wins 11 Losses
> ======================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 08:00:25 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: 4.56 vs 4.11 Gearing

I know a guy who runs 4.11's in his 70 W-30.  The car is running a healthy 455
with the original W-30 converter, 10 wide by 29 tall slicks, and he runs 12.60
at 112 mph at Muncie Dragway.  My guess is your tires would be too short for
4.56's, and the engine would redline too early in the 1/4 mile.  On the other
hand 1/8 mile times would pick up noticably.

I have also ran these same combos through my Quarter Jr. drag racing
simulation program and found the 4.11 gears to be the limit for a 455
redlining at 5500 rpm.   Anything else in either direction had a significant
impact on et in the 1/4.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 09:04:52 -0400
From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Subject: Distributor Woes

Greetings All,
I'm hoping someone will have a solution for a little distributor problem I
currently have. Sunday I attempted to tune my Cutlass, only to find the
distributor housing *welded* to the block. So I attempted to free the stuck
housing. After tapping and twisting I succumbed to frustration and applied
too much force. Now I have the extremely undesirable two part distributor
housing. So, this is the question: How the hell do I get the distributor
out of the block without doing any more damage?

TIA
Ray

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 08:07:28 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: 4.56 vs 4.11 Gearing

Thanks for the information dave
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
14 Wins 11 Losses
======================


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	David L Wyatt [SMTP:WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com]
	Sent:	Tuesday, August 11, 1998 8:00 AM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	Re: 4.56 vs 4.11 Gearing

	I know a guy who runs 4.11's in his 70 W-30.  The car is running a
healthy 455
	with the original W-30 converter, 10 wide by 29 tall slicks, and he
runs 12.60
	at 112 mph at Muncie Dragway.  My guess is your tires would be too
short for
	4.56's, and the engine would redline too early in the 1/4 mile.  On
the other
	hand 1/8 mile times would pick up noticably.

	I have also ran these same combos through my Quarter Jr. drag racing
	simulation program and found the 4.11 gears to be the limit for a
455
	redlining at 5500 rpm.   Anything else in either direction had a
significant
	impact on et in the 1/4.

	Dave Wyatt
	70  4-4-2
	

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 08:54:43 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@leadbelt.com (roger hitson)
Subject: re: radiator problem, please help

Clayton Pierce wrote:

>I believe that I have the same problem as the two of you do with my
>'65 Pontiac Bonneville... major difference is that the cause of my
>problem is MUCH more obvious... at shut-off the radiator will start
>venting out of the spill hose... and at the same time... will start
>venting out of a leak at the top seam on the d-side of the radiator...
> I'm wondering if you might have a very small hole in your radiator
>somewhere...

and some other good stuff.

I had been wondering the same. I had a tiny pinhole leak in my rad. It was
so small that when engine was running it emitted mainly steam. No evidence
of fluid leak. When engine shut off, coolant would spill out of the system
onto the ground. I only found the leak once when I shut off engine and
started looking in places I hadn't been. I noticed a tiny trickle. Fixing
the radiator fixed my problem with losing coolant.

I suggest you consider removing your radiators and taking them to a
specialist shop to have them tanked & repaired. Lots easier than head or
head gasket replacement.

If this is all redundant, please make allowances for disorganized thoughts.

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 10:04:00 -0500
From: "Cote, Jeffrey"
<IMCEAEX-_O=MCCO_OU=MORGAN_CN=RECIPIENTS_CN=M947AIM@morganco.com> Subject:
Changing cores-Was: radiator problem

Hey, Sam, thats is what I'ma gonna do. Thanks to everyone
for their advice. Great bunch of guys. I'm bringin' the rad to
the shop and while it's out I'll inspect the clutch for replacement.
Say, if I end up spending money on the radiator, how much
change over is there in the mounting if I want to upgrade the
number of cores in the rad? Havent checked what I have yet,
just anticipating.

Jeff Cote
72 Supreme H/T

> ----------
> From: 	hitson@leadbelt.com[SMTP:hitson@leadbelt.com]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Tuesday, August 11, 1998 8:54 AM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	re: radiator problem, please help
>
> I had been wondering the same. I had a tiny pinhole leak in my rad. It was
>
> so small that when engine was running it emitted mainly steam. No evidence
>
> of fluid leak. When engine shut off, coolant would spill out of the system
>
> onto the ground. I only found the leak once when I shut off engine and
> started looking in places I hadn't been. I noticed a tiny trickle. Fixing
> the radiator fixed my problem with losing coolant.
>
> I suggest you consider removing your radiators and taking them to a
> specialist shop to have them tanked & repaired. Lots easier than head or
> head gasket replacement.
>
> If this is all redundant, please make allowances for disorganized
> thoughts.
>
> roger hitson
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 10:05:33 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Distributor Woes

Now I have the extremely undesirable two part distributor
housing.
_____________

Sorry to hear about that, Ray.  I thought I was the only idiot who did
that.

I assume the engine is still in the car, so working space is limited.  Is
the housing stuck in the block (so it won't turn) or is the oil pump
driveshaft stuck in the dist gear (housing turns, shaft won't come up).  If
the former, try applying liberal amounts of penetrating oil at the base of
the distributor.  Most likely problem is varnish buildup on the bottom of
the housing inside the block.  Since the housing is now junk, use a pipe
wrench to try and turn it, breaking it free (that's what I ended up doing).

Another option (which works for either the shaft or the housing being
stuck) is to get a slide hammer and figure a way to hook it under the
advance weight portion of the distributor shaft.  I've got one and can weld
up a hook to fit the shaft if you need to do that - give me a call.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 10:11:55 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: ebay folks

<Clayton admits to "rovernut">

Yah.

I am "Karl-Monster" on Ebay.

I typically check the actual Email address (only Ebay members can do that)
belonging to each username before bidding.

Ebay was the source of my J-2 intake.

Guess the secret's out now......

The key to not bidding against each other is comunication, and in some
instances, caution.

Happy hunting!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 10:19:38 -0400
From: Joseph Gambaccini <jgambaccini@ci.richmond.va.us>
Subject: Re: radiator problem, please help

i remember changing to a 4-core (god, that was in 1984) with a cutlass
(350).  just took the old 2-core out and put in the new 4-core.  the
"sides" of the radiator (where the rubber supports sit to hold the
radiator in place) were the same thickness for both radiators.

i just went through the leaky radiator deal w/ my '72 442 (455).

i had a couple of tiny leaks (while under the hood with a warmed-up
engine i could hear hissing).  it was pretty cruddy inside with a lot of
buildup - the 4-cores were not passing much fluid at all.  took the
radiator in to have it tested and it sprung several other leaks - time
for a new one.  got a modine 4-core unit, 2 5/8 thick, w/ a lifetime
warranty for $175.

hope this helps!


roger hitson wrote:
>
> Clayton Pierce wrote:
>
> >I believe that I have the same problem as the two of you do with my
> >'65 Pontiac Bonneville... major difference is that the cause of my
> >problem is MUCH more obvious... at shut-off the radiator will start
> >venting out of the spill hose... and at the same time... will start
> >venting out of a leak at the top seam on the d-side of the radiator...
> > I'm wondering if you might have a very small hole in your radiator
> >somewhere...
>
> and some other good stuff.
>
> I had been wondering the same. I had a tiny pinhole leak in my rad. It was
> so small that when engine was running it emitted mainly steam. No evidence
> of fluid leak. When engine shut off, coolant would spill out of the system
> onto the ground. I only found the leak once when I shut off engine and
> started looking in places I hadn't been. I noticed a tiny trickle. Fixing
> the radiator fixed my problem with losing coolant.
>
> I suggest you consider removing your radiators and taking them to a
> specialist shop to have them tanked & repaired. Lots easier than head or
> head gasket replacement.
>
> If this is all redundant, please make allowances for disorganized thoughts.
>
> roger hitson

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1420
*********************************
