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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1432


oldsmobile-digest       Monday, August 17 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1432



RE: 4.10 or 4.56 gears?
Re: W-30 Automatics (was HP question)
Re: 1/4 mile tech help
G-Body VIN# was  84 442 for sale
Unsubscribe
Blind and deaf
Re: Registry/ reply
Re: Olds NASCAR
Re: 350 questions
W-Machine Registry
to everyone
Re: Rechroming Bumpers
Re: SB 4bbl.intake wanted
Re: <no subject>
Re: '77 Cutlass 5-Speed Information?
Re: engine build questions!!! LONG
re: engine build questions!!! LONG
Re: Trans fluid leak from tail shaft
re: engine build questions!!! LONG
Re: W-30 Automatics (was HP question)
Re: W-30 Automatics (was HP question)
RE: Electrical Problem, 1966
Re: Richard Petty HotWheels Oldsmobile
Re: WAS Re: 403 olds flywheel/clutch..now just 403
Re: Blind and deaf
Verne's Plating
Re: Suspension
Re: engine build questions!!! LONG
Re: Car Probs was Re: Separating out the Olds from the ...
RE: Electrical Problem, 1966
Re: Attention all 81-88 "G" body members.
PARTS WANTED 1941 OLDS
The Parts Place (Batavia, IL)
Re: SB 4bbl.intake wanted
Found a 70 442 W-30 for sale
edelbrock rebuilt carb
Re: Trans fluid leak
Distributor Help
Re: W-30 Automatics (was HP question)
1981 Olds Delta 88
Re: Suspension
Re: Windshield
Polishing body trim ('68 Cutlass)
HELP!!!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 07:37:13 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: 4.10 or 4.56 gears?

If it were me and I had overdrive I'd go with the 4.56


======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
17 Wins 11 Losses
======================


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	crl6420@online.no [SMTP:crl6420@online.no]
	Sent:	Friday, August 14, 1998 6:15 PM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	4.10 or 4.56 gears?

	Hello,

	I have a -81 calais, and i`m going to build up a
	350 with the edelbrock rpm perf. pack (397 hp)
	the trans is a th 200 r4 from a -84 hurst/olds.

	what gears are recomended for this combo ?
	and can the trans take the "heat" ?
	i can live with the rpm.

	Thanx

	Chris lovik, Norway

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 09:22:35 -0400
From: tgstoner@umich.edu
Subject: Re: W-30 Automatics (was HP question)

On Thu, 13 Aug 1998 Joe Padavano <joe_padavano@rocketmail.com> wrote:

> Perhaps you're thinking of A/C or power brakes, both of which were first
> available on the W-30 in 1970.  Of course, these cars received the
standard
> 442 cam instead of the 328 degree cam.  They _did_ get the F heads and
> aluminum intake.

**********************

Joe,

I think you're right and I was thinking of the air conditioning and power
brake options.  I didn't remember air conditioning being unavailable with
the earlier W-30s, so I guess I was thinking that the restrictions were for
power brakes and the Turbo HydraMatic options.  I certainly can't argue
with your evidence, which is far more supportive than anything I've ever
had on the subject in my Olds library.  Thanks.

Tom Stoner
Oldsmobile Club of America #3943
Ann Arbor, MI
tgstoner@umich.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 09:26:32 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: 1/4 mile tech help

OK Patrick.

I take a little shot at this answer.  You mention your car ran better with
the other gears, and now that you have step up the gear ratio you car has
slowed down.
First, your 60 foot times are poor, probably lack of traction, this is
first area to look into.
Next, your car is revving higher do to the new gears.  This will mean the
engine requires more fuel at higher rpms.  Think of it this way.  Your ran
you car last year, with the smaller gear you would have remained under 4200
rpm for everything except top of first and second gear.  You were probably
dropping horse power at the higher revs due to lack of fuel or ignition.
Now that you are running a steeper gear  ratio you spend more time in the
higher rpm range at the end of the 1/4.  You are probably going through the
traps around 5600 rpm's now.  So your problem will be in your ignition or
my bet would be fuel starvation in top gear.
A pal of mine ran into a similar problem last year.  His Bird ran 12.25 et.
with 3.55 gear.  When he changed to 3.91's and no other changes were made
his 1/4 mile times dropped to 13.2 et's.   We massively increase the jets
in his carb and we got the car back down to an 11.85.  Cause of the gear
change he was spending more time in high rpm's.  He was only running 72
jets up front and 80's in the rear of his 950hp Holley.  Now we have him at
76 up front (still low for street derivability)  and 96 in the rear.  We
also changed his power valve to give him a little extra fuel sooner.

I will be gone on a car hunt for the next few days but if you want to give
me a call on the weekend I am more then happy to help a fellow Oldsmobiler

Talk Latter Patrick

PS - You are running the same basic driveline I am and I get 13.5 out of my
ragtop with a 1.8 sec  60 footer.

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)


> Best e.t. 15.025
> 60'            2.061
> 330'          6.005
> 1/8 mile    9.410 at 71.72 mph
> 990'           12.324
> 1/4 mile      15.025 at 84.93 mph
> Any help/insight is appreciated

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 08:20:54 -0500
From: "Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
Subject: G-Body VIN# was  84 442 for sale

>87 2-dr Cutlass Supreme with 442 option (engine code "9").  Should have
>the composite headlights.  If it were a GK11, that is the Salon, which,
>to my knowledge, ironically was not available with the 442 option in
>87.  It was a Supreme option only.  Someone correct me here if I'm
>wrong.  I know MY 87 442 was a GR11.  Any current 87 owners want to
>check theirs?  This poses a good question, since the 85 442 factory pic
>says the 442 option was only on the Supreme, when in fact it was only
>available on the Salon.


That's my understanding too. My '87 442 has the GR11 code

But, I'm pretty sure that Mike's ( krzy4evr@usit.net ) '86 is a GK47, not
GK11.

GK=Cutlass Salon
47=????

GR=Cutlass Supreme
1=2 Door Notchback
1=Manual Seat Belts

- -Mark Tupper    1987 442    (OCA 30666)
 mtupper@palacenet.net        http://www.cyberglyphs.com/442/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 09:27:33 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Unsubscribe



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 07:37:14 -0500
From: "Tony Eichholz" <eichholz@liljasper.com>
Subject: Blind and deaf

Hi Guys;
             Been off-line for awhile,computer got struck by lightning,and
really wasted it.But, I'm back and reading like the rest of you .Same
e-mail.if anyone has been looking for me.      Thaks Tony

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 09:46:20 EDT
From: <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Registry/ reply

Them too.
Jim McKeague
70 Cutlass W31
70 Rallye 350

So how about the few of us W-32's?? >>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 09:58:57 -0400
From: tgstoner@umich.edu
Subject: Re: Olds NASCAR

On Thu, 13 Aug 1998 <KS7RACING@aol.com> wrote:
> I can't remember anyone racing a Cutlass in NASCAR before the 76 / 77
year
> body style became popular, which was really after 77.  NASCAR allowed GM
teams
> to use older models for a few years, a practice that now never gets done,
> there's just too much of a disadvantage to it.

***********************
Ken and all,

In the mid-1970's NASCAR did indeed allow previous years of body styles to
compete.  In fact, they still do, which is how some of the lesser Ford
teams ended up running Thunderbirds in some of the Winston Cup races
earlier this year.  I'm not sure how old the body style can be now, but in
1975 and 1976 it was three years.  And in both years it was quite common
for earlier cars to still be run.  Because Plymouth and Dodge didn't have a
competitive body style in 1977, NASCAR actually expanded the list of cars
allowed back for four years, in an attempt to allow a greater variety of
manufacturers to be represented.

For the 1978 season though, I believe that the rule reverted back to styles
three years old or less.  1978 was also the year that NASCAR allowed
Chevrolet engines to be used in any of the General Motors intermediate
models.  Many of the teams saw an aerodynamic advantage in the 1976-1977
Oldsmobile Cutlass S / 442 "slant nose" grills and choose to use that body
style, built as a 1977 model.  In fact, Oldsmobile received their first
1978 victory at the Daytona 500, giving them their first NASCAR preimier
series victory since 1959.

I checked my copy of "NASCAR - The First 40 Years" last night and it
doesn't appear that anyone ran an Oldsmobile of any flavor in any Winston
Cup races during the years 1975 through 1977.  I didn't check earlier than
1975, to see when an Olds was last run prior to 1978.

So to answer Ed's original question, it unfortunately doesn't appear that
anyone ever ran a '75 Cutlass in any NASCAR Winston Cup events.  I don't
suppose you friend can simply do like the NASCAR teams do, and just put the
1977 Cutlass sheet metal on his car.  I guess he's just going to have to
build a "fake" replica of a '75 Cutlass race car.

Tom Stoner
Oldsmobile Club of America #3943
Ann Arbor, MI
tgstoner@umich.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 09:55:31 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 350 questions

George,

The oil pan should be painted the same color as the engine.  A 68 350 will
be gold.

With the exception of the W-31s, all Olds small blocks used dished pistons.
The high compression pistons used a "shallower" dish than the low
compression pistons.  This is actually a good design, as the ideal
combustion chamber is a sphere.  The Olds dished pistons come a lot closer
to approximating this sphere than most motors with domed pistons.

If you replace anything in the reciprocating assembly (say, the pistons),
you should plan on rebalancing the motor.  Yes, we've all built motors
without balancing, but you'll be a lot happier if you do.

As for the crank, understanding your cost constraints, the best small block
Olds crank is the forged unit from the 64-67 330 motors.  This will drop
into a 350, as main and rod journals are the same size (as is stroke).  You
will need to rebalance and you'll need to use an early (64-67)
flywheel/flexplate due to the crank flange bolt pattern.  (Shameless
self-promotion:  I have a 67 330 forged crank and flexplate available
cheap.  Email privately if interested)

Interesting side note:  In a period test of the 1970 W-31 in Hot Rod
Magazine, they pointed out that the oversquare Olds 350 has the best
bore/stroke ratio of any GM 350 motor, with the result that there should be
a lot of potential in this motor.

Number 5 heads were used on the W-31s.  These heads were used on all 350s
of that vintage, with only the addition of the larger (2.00" intake, 1.625"
exhaust) valves from the big block.  You can have your heads machined to
incorporate these larger valves.

I'm not a big fan of single plane intake manifolds on the street,
preferring the dual plane setup (recent testing in Car Craft
notwithstanding).  I'd recommend the Edelbrock Performer.  As for your
manifold with the angled carb flange, that's intended to keep the carb
level under hard acceleration when the nose of the car comes up.

Hope this all helps.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 10:32:43 EDT
From: <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: W-Machine Registry

I am going to start to collecting information for the W-Machine Registry. If
you own a W30, 31, 32, Rallye 350, H/O, Pace car, or SX, e-mail me privatley
with info like:
Name:
VIN:
Color:
Stripe Color:
Trans:
Mileage:
Build Date:
Real W-Machine:
Body Style:
Build Place:
E-mail with this info privatley to drolds350@aol.com!!
Thanks,
Jim McKeague

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 10:36:02 EDT
From: <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: to everyone

 I have a car parking pass  and a dmission for 2 to charllotte for the fall
(sept)
show....  all for $40 bucks..unlimited admission for 4 days..



thanks   jeff... or call   770  723-9345

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 10:37:09 EDT
From: <TomW30@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Rechroming Bumpers

 Another good source for rechroming bumpers, etc. Visit your local Harley
Davidson shop or other reputable cycle shop and ask who they recommend for re-
chroming. These guys are always getting parts of their bikes chromed and
should be able to steer you in the right direction. It worked for me!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 10:56:44 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: SB 4bbl.intake wanted

>I'm  looking for a 4bbl intake for my '68 350.  I don't want the intake with
>the divorced choke housing.  I've been told that there aren't any significant
>gains to be had by buying a hipo aftermarket intake, except for weight.  I'm
>also looking for a carb to sit on the intake.  Let me know if I have the
>correct info or if you have an intake and/or carb you are willing to part

Well, I wouldn't recommend moving from a factory iron 4-bbl to an
aftermarket 4-bbl, unless you had absolutely nothing else to spend that
$170 on, or you only had an iron EGR intake. If, however, you don't
currently have any 4-bbl intake at all, then the Performer becomes an
attractive alternative to hunting down a factory 4-bbl manifold. If you
don't want an intake with the choke-well, or EGR, then you're looking at
intakes from '70-'72 350's, a rather restricted window. Say you pick up a
good clean intake for $50; add in shipping if you don't get it locally
(another $20), figure another $5 for paint, and a couple hours cleaning and
prepping it (more $$$ if you have it sandblasted). If you want to use a
squarebore carb, you'd have to use a thick (at least 3/4") spacer (about $10).

The Performer doesn't have to be cleaned or painted, and can use the
factory spreadbore carb or a squarebore carb with its supplied thin (1/8")
adapter. And it can use the factory-style hot-air choke. If you can stand
spending another $110, it's a viable option, and it may be easier to find
than the 4-bbl you're looking for.

You'll also appreciate the light weight if you ever have to remove and
reinstall the intake with the engine in the car... :)
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	              MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 10:58:53 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: <no subject>

>Can the 5A heads be used on all the SB with the
>right manifold ? (edelbrock # 3711 or # 7111)
>i was thinking about the 403 cid.

Yes, they should work with any factory (up to '85) or aftermarket intake.
But why would you want those on a 403? Sure, it would raise compression,
but the valves a significantly smaller, and would choke off the extra 100ci
(they're originally 307 heads).
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	              MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 10:49:42 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: '77 Cutlass 5-Speed Information?

>Anyone have any experience with this aforementioned 5-speed?  I know we
hashed
>and re-hashed the 5-speed thing some time ago, but I don't remember if this
>one was discussed.

It was a Saginaw unit, as I remember (I've got a '78 Buick manual that
covers this tranny), and wasn't a heavy-duty piece (the 260 probably taxed
it to its limit!). It's the same one GM used in its Monza/Skyhawk/Firenza
and such.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	              MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 10:47:24 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: engine build questions!!! LONG

>I pulled my motor this weekend and disassembled it. It looks pretty good.
 [snip]
>I have another block (No. 2) and crank which came with the car. The block
 [snip]
>I am planning to use block 2 which looks like new and save some money on
>shop costs. I will use the 30 oversize pistons from engine 1 and will be
>able to use new 30 rings which I already have from the former owner.
>Is this reasonable???

Yes, though you may want to have the good #2 block honed at least, if
you're using new rings. Early 350 pistons came in three flavors: flat-top
(10.5:1- W-31), dished (10.25:1- 4-bbl) and REALLY dished (9.0:1- 2-bbl)
The more compression the better, but if you've already got a set of pistons
that are good to go, then use those, whatever the compression.

>Are these blocks compatible? Is block 1 the original one?

They are completely interchangeable. Check the VIN derivative stamped on
the pad near the #1 cylinder against your car's VIN; the one whose last six
numbers match the last six in your VIN is the original (you may find that
neither is).

>As already mentioned I have two cranks. Crank No. 2 which came with the
>car is polished like new. For cost efficiency I would like to use it. Here

Go for it; for street use, one is as good as the other.

>Would you recommend to balance the crank???

Well, yes: crank, rods, pistons, flywheel/flexplate and harmonic damper are
all included in the balancing act, and if you're mixing and matching and
saving money elsewhere, this would be a good place to invest some cash.

>I have 4 Intakes for this car.... the one I want to use is an old Holley
>aluminium whith pretty straight channels pretty much like the Edelbrock
>"Torker II".
>Can anyone tell me the model and year? It says "Holley Street Dominator"
>and on the bottom of it there is a small number: 701R 16 and big: 01095.
>It is for a 4 bbl and has a big square opening for the carb, no single
>wholes. Funny is also that the carb seat is slightly tilted to the
>front!!! Would you recommend to use this thing?

For a street car, this may give you a soggy bottom end, especially if you
are using a near-stock stall converter and gears below 3.73. What are the
other three intakes? I'd recommend a good dual-plane 4-bbl intake, either
factory iron or aftermarket aluminum.

>CARBURETOR
>==========
>The car had a 2 bbl on it. I want a 4 bbl. Any cheap and powerful
>suggestions what I should get? How many cfm? Is 600 enough or rather 750?
>Has anybody tried the rebuilt Edelbrocks sold in JEGS (around 160 bucks!)

The 600 should be enough. Again, you have to determine what rpm range you
want this engine to make power in (based on the rpms it will see when you
are driving it most of the time, not only the occasional full-throttle from
a stop), and choose the components to match that power curve.

>CAMSHAFT
>========
>Do you get much better performance in the setup planned above with an
>aftermarket cam? Please give me suggestions what I should get! Here also
>a bargain would be good. (Hope this bargain thing does not annoy you, I
>am not tight, only a poor student starting in the Olds world...)

Any cam is going to cost you in the $100-$150 range. A nice factory style
cam like the 350 4-bbl/4-spd cam (see the FAQ for specs) would be good for
use with unported heads and stock valves; maybe a '69 H/O cam if you use
larger valves and are running a 3.08:1 or 3.23:1 rear. The Edelbrock
Performer is a decent cam, but because of its reduced base-circle you have
to invest in longer pushrods.

>forgot two things... What was the orig. color of the oil pan on my 68
>Cutlass? Is it possible that it was body color? I would like to paint it
>original. So far I got it primer.

It would be the same color as the rest of the engine: gold.

>I read in an Olds book in the bookstore that a 68 cutlass s came with
>slightly over 300 HP factory! Is this true? Did it come with a 2bbl or a
>4bbl. Are the 300 HP true for the 2bbl 350?

There was the 310hp 4-bbl motor, and the 260hp 2-bbl motor (both are gross
ratings, rather than the net ratings used today, so they don't compare).
Dual exhaust was supposed to add 10 or 20 horsepower to that (it was
available with both motors), but that wasn't included in the factory
ratings. The "Ram-Rod" 350 (W-31 option) was rated at 325hp, although in
actual fact it probably made more than 15hp above the regular 4-bbl 350. At
higher rpms (5000rpm plus), it was probably making 50-100hp more than the
other 350s.

Again, you have to determine what rpms you want this engine to be running
at. What transmission will you be using, what rear gears do you have, and
what kind of driving will you be doing? The 403 I built for my Electra
makes its best power in the 2500-5500 range; below that it still makes more
power than stock, but to really make use of it I needed a higher-stall
converter (2400rpm). This has diminished the responsiveness of the car
around town, where at 30-40mph, with the 2.41:1 rear gears, I'm probably
turning about 1200rpm. I don't drive it around town that much (it's our
long-distance cruiser), so it doesn't bother me, but if I was going to
drive it around town much, where I wanted good performance at
part-throttle, low-rpms, I'd have gone with unported heads, a smaller cam
and a tighter converter. I would have sacrificed full-throttle power, but
it would have been more fun to drive down to the corner for some milk.

You can build your engine to maximize its power output at wide-open (100%)
throttle, but this can diminish the performance of that engine in the car
at the lesser throttle openings (say 10%-60%) you drive at most of the
time. A drag car with a 4000rpm converter, 2-spd Powerglide and
600hp@6500rpm would be very unsatisfying to drive to work everyday, as it
sputtered and lurched along in bumper-to-bumper traffic, because at 10%-50%
throttle the drag engine is probably making half the horsepower that a
stock 350 would make. Those are just some of the tradeoffs you have to
consider.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	              MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 17:19:08 +0200
From: "TRONDJARLE PEDERSEN" <trondped@c2i.net>
Subject: re: engine build questions!!! LONG

>I will use the 30 oversize pistons from engine 1 and will be
>able to use new 30 rings which I already have from the former owner.
>Is this reasonable???

How serius are you?
My old teacher learned me that a bore was matched to its piston
but i know that many folks dont care about this
be sure to measure the piston and bore for clarence

>Are these blocks compatible?

All olds blocks of the same sice are compatible (right?)

>INTAKE

>Can anyone tell me the model and year? It says "Holley Street Dominator"

Had this type on my 455 (in the burning cutlass) didnt try it mutch thoug, nice
but not mutch torque on the bottom

>CARBURETOR

 >How many cfm? Is 600 enough or rather 750?

750 cfm  (I had a 670 holly tbi WAY to small on the top)

>CAMSHAFT

I had a comp cam (extreme energy something like 272deg. 0,474lift???not shure)
pumped out 387hp on the dyno w/750dp holly and hei. Guess that the heads were
slighty ported,

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 08:26:00 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Trans fluid leak from tail shaft

I realize most of you guys ignore the posts that I make however I will make
this one again there is a small hole in the th400 yoke that could be the
reason for your leak it is in the center of the thing right under the
u-joint look for it...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, August 16, 1998 8:39 PM
Subject: Re: Trans fluid leak from tail shaft


>At 11:13 PM 8/16/98 -0400, you wrote:
>>   Just replaced a TH400 and I'm getting tranny fluid leaking from the
tail
>>shaft.
>>I replaced the rear shaft seal before installation as usual.  Any clues?
>>
>>
>
>sounds like your old slip yoke has a groove worn in it.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 11:41:00 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: re: engine build questions!!! LONG

>How many cfm? Is 600 enough or rather 750?

750 cfm  (I had a 670 holly tbi WAY to small on the top)
_________________

Sorry, I have to disagree.  A 350 cu in engine only uses 350/2/12^3 = 0.101
cu ft of air per crankshaft rev.  You'd need to turn 750/0.101 = 7400 rpm
to ever use a 750 carb on this motor, and that assumes 100% volumetric
efficiency (85-90% is more likely in this application).  Around-town
driveability will be hurt by such a large carb as well.  A 600 CFM carb is
good for 600/0.101 = 5940 rpm, which, if you again assume 90% VE, actually
works out to more like 6600 rpm.  You'll be a lot happier with the smaller
carb on the street, as well.

The exception here, of course, is the Q-jet, that flows something like 750
cfm.  The spreadbore design provides much better part throttle driveability
than a sqarebore carb of the same cfm rating.  You may want to consider
that option.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 08:29:40 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: W-30 Automatics (was HP question)

to the best of my knowledge the w-30 could not be had with power brakes in
68-69 the factory literature doesnt allow this option...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: John Young <realtorjohn@sprynet.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, August 16, 1998 11:54 PM
Subject: Re: W-30 Automatics (was HP question)


>Jim, according to your info, by defalt all 69 W series (400ci) with power
>disc brakes would fall into the W-32 class....or am I reading something
>into this that is not here???
>realtorjohn@sprynet.com
>69 W-32 (?)
>
>
>----------
>> From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: W-30 Automatics (was HP question)
>> Date: Sunday, August 16, 1998 1:56 AM
>>
>>
>>         Here's the scoop on W-30 auto cars. 67 WAS the first year
>available.
>> The only power option available was P/S. I have not seen a 67 W-30 with
>pwr
>> brakes. Whoever stated the W-O-G TH400 was the trans is correct. It was a
>> switch pitch TH400 that had a shift kit installed at the factory. The 68
>&
>> 69 W-30's had autos and also could be had with the 328 duration cam. This
>> would give you the 2300 RPM converter in the trans. No pwr brakes with
>> those. If you ordered your W-30 auto with P/B then you got a milder cam
>like
>> the 70 W-30 auto cars.
>>
>> Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 11:48:21 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: W-30 Automatics (was HP question)

to the best of my knowledge the w-30 could not be had with power brakes in
68-69 the factory literature doesnt allow this option...kk
________________

I have to concur.  Everything I have says 1970 was the first year for power
brakes and A/C with the W-30, and with those options you did _not_ get the
328 degree cam.

Joe (yes, I do read your posts) Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 08:55:53 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Electrical Problem, 1966

Get thee to a wiring diagram. You can find in the invaluable
Chassis Service Manual from Olds. Get this at Faxon's auto
literature. See the number in Hemmings Motor News, available
at your local newstand.

cf

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Toby Blom [mailto:floridarealtor@worldnet.att.net]
> Sent: Sunday, August 16, 1998 10:56 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Electrical Problem, 1966
>
>
> I have a strange problem in my 66 F85. As soon as I hook up
> my battery,
> my instrument lights come on. Bought a new light switch (Year One) and
> installed it today, same problem. When I turm the light knob, my
> taillights dim....!
> Anybody have any great ideas where to start?
>
> Regards
>
> Toby
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 08:40:11 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Richard Petty HotWheels Oldsmobile

uh I believe it was a pontiac...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ray <rayc@U.Arizona.EDU>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, August 16, 1998 7:31 PM
Subject: Re: Richard Petty HotWheels Oldsmobile


>On Tue, 11 Aug 1998, Paul Hartlieb wrote:
>
>> I was in a novelty store today, in their toy department.  Was walking
>> down the aisle and immediately saw the shape of a '57 Olds.  When I
>> looked closer, it was all done up in stock-car trim.  The box was
>> HotWheels and it was a Richard Petty racing set.  One of the other cars
>> in the box was one of his more recent Pontiacs, I think.  Didn't look
>> closely at the third car, but I'm thinking now this may have been the
>> mid '70s Cutlass he used to run.  Set ran about $22.  Anybody else seen
>> them?
>>
>> Paul
>> --
>
>
>Didn't I see Richard Petty standing in front of an 80's Cutlass in the
>NASCAR calendar they're giving away at the 76 gas stations?
>
>> Paul Hartlieb
>> Myerstown, PA
>> mailto:plh@nbn.net
>>
>
>Ray Costanzo
>87 409 Cutlass Supreme
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 08:42:03 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: WAS Re: 403 olds flywheel/clutch..now just 403

isnt it just about all 6.6 litre? there were a lot of em...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, August 16, 1998 7:54 PM
Subject: Re: WAS Re: 403 olds flywheel/clutch..now just 403


>><< Nope. The 403 was an Olds small block, also used on some Pancho's and
> [snip]
>>      Hollanders doesn't list any 403's in TA's..I've always heard they
were
>>put in them..what was the rationale for Pontiac, or for that matter, Olds,
to
>>use the 400 vs. the 403??? 3 cubic inches is nothing! They would also, in
GM
>>lingo, probably be 6.6 litres, like 396, 402, 400, 403, correct?   Dorian
>
>At the time, GM didn't have too many "big" engines available; all the
>big-blocks were out of production after 1976, aside from the Pontiac (which
>doesn't have "small" or "big" blocks; they're all the same size), and the
>only big-cube motors were the overbored small-blocks like the Chev 400
(used
>primarily in trucks) and the Olds 403.
>
>Seems like the Pontiac 400 was billed as a limited-production premium motor
>at the time, and was limited to the 4spd cars in its 220hp trim. The 403
was
>apparently the high-volume big-engine for GM in that era, so it was
probably
>more economical to drop them in the T/A as well.
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 08:48:58 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Blind and deaf

you were gone?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tony Eichholz <eichholz@liljasper.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 17, 1998 6:39 AM
Subject: Blind and deaf


>Hi Guys;
>             Been off-line for awhile,computer got struck by lightning,and
>really wasted it.But, I'm back and reading like the rest of you .Same
>e-mail.if anyone has been looking for me.      Thaks Tony
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 09:12:46 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: Verne's Plating

Now as a contrast to Bumper Boys. I was _extremely_
pleased with the work Verne's did on my bumpers years ago.

Will never forget how he said he should have "Charged me by
the pound" on my 66 98 bumper. Massive piece.

Hearty recommendation for Vernes

(snip)
>
> Well, I've tried to sandblast the chrome off of a bumper that
> I wanted to
> paint body color.  Not only was it extremely slow (just
> getting through the
> chrome layer to the nickel took forever, never mind getting
> past the copper to
> the parent metal), but it obviously leaves a rough finish.
> I've always been
> told (mainly by Bob Barnes, who runs Verne's Chrome in SoCal)
> that surface
> prep for chrome is similar to that for paint; namely, any
> imperfection in the
> substrate will show in the chrome.  Verne's used an
> electrochemical dip to
> remove all the plating from parts, and spent a lot of time
> polishing the bare
> steel prior to applying any plating.  Obviously, the copper
> layer will fill
> minor imperfections (like primer), but anything beyond that
> will show in the
> finished surface.
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 70 W-30
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 12:13:30 -0000
From: "erik HILL" <ehill@gowebway.com>
Subject: Re: Suspension

hello G-bodies,

my '88 has bilsteins at the corners, suspension technique front lowering
springs and a set to "cut-to-match" rear bell-techs (estimate 2" fr-3"rr
drop for the perfect level lowered look) and 17's w/235-40-17 pirelli
p7000's
stock front bar (will change) with rear bar from pont.gran.prix (med.sized
bar- made a nice difference since car had none on back- will also upgrade
to buick GN stuff)
Moog offset pivot shaft (to get a good alignment setting while being
lowered).
Energy Suspension bushings.

....she rides really good,....sporty, but not harsh,........ corners
sharp,,,,,no tire squeal due to good grip tires---lower center of
gravity---and premium shocks.....
- ----------
> From: James E. O'Donnell <CaIlaway@sprintmail.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Suspension
> Date: Sunday, August 16, 1998 7:02 AM
>
>
> JJP442@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > I'm in New York also and have done the suspension on both my G bodies.
This is
> > what I recommend; Moog coil springs #5610 front, #5375 rear and Gabriel
> > "black" gas shocks. This works really well for me. Oh... if you don't
have
> > anti-sway bars it would be a good idea to get some.
> > Good Luck'
> > JJP442@aol.com
> > 1983 Hurst Olds
> > 1987 442
>
> Hey, thanks for the advice. It's really appreciated. I'm not always the
> best when it comes down to making decisions so I thought I'd just ask
> the group. I knew someone out there had the answer and as far as the
> anti-sway bars, the front has one but the rear doesn't. Any suggestions
> as to where I can purchase one?
>
> By the way, I see that you listed you have a 1987 442. To me, that car
> is the best 442 ever made. I love everything about it and came close to
> owning one a little over a year ago. However, the guy wanted just a
> little more than I had at the time. If you're ever in the market to sell
> it, I would appreciate it if you kept me in mind.
>
> Many thanks and stay well.
>
> Cailaway@aol.com
> 1987 Cutlass Supreme
> 1988 Cutlass Supreme Classic

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 08:59:17 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: engine build questions!!! LONG

I've seen this formula before and while it is mathematically correct the
vast majority of 600 cfm holleys out there are vacuum secondaries which
means that they never get to flow 600 cfm of air ever so to step up to a 750
cfm is not out of line given your formula my 71 307 chevy
should not have worked well with a 750 but it ran 1 full second faster with
the 750 over the 600 both vac sec carbs given the fact that the engine would
not rev beyond 6500 the engine is only going to use what it needs no more
that is why most high school kids make a mistake by using the ubiquitous 750
dp and get a great big bog
because the engine is not capable of digesting all that air but that is not
true with the vac sec if you use a 650 dp then the formula is basically
accurate just my .02 aswell
- -----Original Message-----
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM <Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 17, 1998 8:47 AM
Subject: re: engine build questions!!! LONG


>>How many cfm? Is 600 enough or rather 750?
>
>750 cfm  (I had a 670 holly tbi WAY to small on the top)
>_________________
>
>Sorry, I have to disagree.  A 350 cu in engine only uses 350/2/12^3 = 0.101
>cu ft of air per crankshaft rev.  You'd need to turn 750/0.101 = 7400 rpm
>to ever use a 750 carb on this motor, and that assumes 100% volumetric
>efficiency (85-90% is more likely in this application).  Around-town
>driveability will be hurt by such a large carb as well.  A 600 CFM carb is
>good for 600/0.101 = 5940 rpm, which, if you again assume 90% VE, actually
>works out to more like 6600 rpm.  You'll be a lot happier with the smaller
>carb on the street, as well.
>
>The exception here, of course, is the Q-jet, that flows something like 750
>cfm.  The spreadbore design provides much better part throttle driveability
>than a sqarebore carb of the same cfm rating.  You may want to consider
>that option.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>70 W-30
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 12:31:46 EDT
From: <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Car Probs was Re: Separating out the Olds from the ...

In a message dated 8/16/98 10:28:45 PM EST, bladernr@roava.net writes:

<<
 > "Carb ... leaking....Choke dead"
 > I do not know what you mean by "choke dead", but part of rebuilding a carb
is
 > ensuring that the various "connecting rods" on the carb (if you will) make
the
 > necessary motivations (open the butterfly valve just so......). But this
 > requires an operational choke....

 Sorry about the ambguity...  I mean, the coil in the choke has no
 tension on it what so ever.  no matter wether it is cold, or hot, the
 butterfly flaps back and fourth...  there is no tension on the choke
 linkages (or choke itself) to hold the butterfly in any one position...
   >>

It sounds like the little rod that connects to the linkage on the side of the
butterfly is either not there, or is not connected anymore.  There should be a
rod hanging off the side connection on the butterfly, and going down into the
carb (it connects down inside the carb on a little linkage).  Try looking for
it, and see if it is there, and if so, connect it in place (one end goes in
the top "connector, the other in the bottom, there is a hole in the
plate/connector that it goes into), and the choke should "stop "flapping"
around".

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 09:40:03 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Electrical Problem, 1966

> Get thee to a wiring diagram.

Hear, hear. Totally agree with that. But in the meantime, I can't
resist offering a theory anyway:

>> I have a strange problem in my 66 F85. As soon as I hook up
>> my battery, my instrument lights come on. Bought a new light
>> switch (Year One) and installed it today, same problem.
>> When I turn the light knob, my taillights dim....!
>> Anybody have any great ideas where to start?

The dashboard. I don't think the problem is necessarily a bad
ground in this case (it might be), but it sounds like you have
a crossover between the ACCessory circuit (the always-hot orange
wires feeding such items as the cigar lighter, interior lights
and the clock) and the dash backlighting circuit (the gray wires).
That in turn is a branch off the main exterior lighting circuit,
which feeds the taillamps.

Since the lamps seem to be operating at more-or-less regular
brightness, from what you describe, it sounds like the two
supply wires, ACCessory and backlighting, are shorted together
upstream of the bulbs, so they're wired in parallel and one
circuit is providing power for both. (If they shared a common
ground which had broken, you would have a whole bunch of really
dim lights running in series, which doesn't fit your description.)
Since the taillights dim with the dash lights, it appears that
your backlighting circuit is feeding the taillamps, so it's
getting power injected into the backlighting circuit from
somewhere else, presumably the ACCessory circuit or some other
one which is hot at all times.

Check the harness in the vicinity of the light switch, and any
other place where the gray backlighting wiring comes in close
proximity to the orange wiring. This includes the interior
light switches. Pulling fuses for interior (courtesy) lights,
clock/lighter or dash lighting one at a time might give some
more clues. Good luck; you may need it!

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 12:58:10 -0400
From: Stephen Palomba <spalomba@IDT.NET>
Subject: Re: Attention all 81-88 "G" body members.

JJP442@aol.com wrote:
>
> 1ST..I have a complete front clip for these cars in mint cond off of an 87
> Cutlass, minus header and bumper letting it go at a reasonable price. 
(getting
> tired of looking at it in my back yard).
> 2ND.. Does anyone know of a manufacturer of body parts for these cars other
> than Oldsmobile. In dire need of a trunk lid and drivers door for my 87 442.
> Any help will be appreciated. Contact me via list or email. (I'm from N.Y.) 
if
> that helps any.
> Thanks in advance,
> John
> JJP442@aol.com
> 1983 Hurst Olds
> 1987 442
> lds
Hi,

	I have a new trunk lid for your car. It's in factory black primer.
Never been on a car.

How much are you willing to pay.

P.S. I am from NY also (suffolk county)

Stephen Palomba (spalomba@idt.net)
65 cutlass
65 Vista Cruiser
72 cutlass convert

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 13:10:47 -0400
From: "Dan" <dan427@total.net>
Subject: PARTS WANTED 1941 OLDS

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A FRIEND OF MINE IS LOOKING FOR A FLASHER ASS'Y
FOR A 1941 MODEL 66 OLDSMOBILE 2-DOOR SEDAN

WOULD YOU KNOW WHERE HE COULD START LOOKING.

THANKS...


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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>A FRIEND OF MINE IS LOOKING FOR A =
FLASHER=20
ASS'Y</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>FOR A 1941 MODEL 66 OLDSMOBILE =
2-DOOR=20
SEDAN</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>WOULD YOU KNOW WHERE HE COULD START=20
LOOKING.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>THANKS...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDC9E0.73543E40--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 12:14:47 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: The Parts Place (Batavia, IL)

This place is just a few miles from me. Someone on this list had problems with
their parts and return policy. So I'm offering to help if anyone runs into a
problem.
- --
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 13:10:59 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: SB 4bbl.intake wanted

In a message dated 98-08-17 11:10:08 EDT, you write:

<< I'm  looking for a 4bbl intake for my '68 350.  I don't want the intake
with the divorced choke housing. >>

I take that to mean that you do NOT want Rochester Carb.
Just my hallucination, but from th things I am learning, with the right
models, (especially not 17065XXX it seems) they are not all that bad.
To continue....

<< I've been told that there aren't any significant gains to be had by buying
a hipo aftermarket intake, except for weight. >>

Whoa!
That IS true of the W-30 intake, but you already discounted it (I think??)
because of the no-divorced-choke requirement.

Karl also heartily agrees with Doc Barry.
(see previous post)

<< I'm also looking for a carb to sit on the intake.  Let me know if I have
the correct info or if you have an intake and/or carb you are willing to part
>>

I know you may think this an odd suggestion.
Look around for an A4 (A5 is different animal! Ignore it!) intake from an
early 80's 307.
Do not buy yet (Karl will NOT tell you what to buy!), just look.
For an 80's car and a 307, the runners look huge!

Mebbe not such an improvement as Edelbrock's performer, BUT you get the weight
advantage, good flow, AND you can score one for $25 or so at a yarde!
(Not THAT many 80's cars have been crushed!)

I have been told that the A4 intakes have "A4" on the top somewhere.
I dint look that closely at the top.
Saw the underside of one (offered for $75!!!!!!) at swap meet at Olds
Homecoming.
"A4" grungy, but clear as crystal.

Again, just look.
Karl not have stock vs. "A4" flow stats.
So look, decide for yerself.

As a promo....
I asked C. B. Witt about A4 on a 350 at same show (It'd fit right?).
C.B.W.="Prolly"

Now is that a glowing endorsement or what?

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 13:15:29 -0500
From: IMCEAEX-_O=MCCO_OU=MORGAN_CN=RECIPIENTS_CN=M947AIM@morganco.com
Subject: Found a 70 442 W-30 for sale

Hi everyone.

I found a '70 W-30 hardtop for sale:
- -90k on 455 auto on floor, buckets
- -matching numbers
- -solid body, faded paint with stone chips, few
    small blisters in common areas.
- -no rust on floor/trunk/frame
- -interior excellent, no rips in liner,seats
- -no build sheet/window sticker/p-o-p
- -W-30 package looks orig though, has everything
   including red wells, intake, heads, M in VIN,
   even complete alum W-27 rear
- -also has sport mirrors, 8-track, a/c, pb, ps
   vinyl top, SSI, rallye

She's straight, solid and complete (except for docs)
Can anyone tell me what she's worth? How much
more would it be worth if it came with W proof?
I'm amazed at all the W machine gurus here, was
hoping you could help. What would this car be
worth in #1?

Thanks in advance.
- --J. Cote



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 12:30:57 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: edelbrock rebuilt carb

hi guys,

thank you so much for your answers to my looooong engine post. things
clear up very much. here is one question left unanswered:

anybody out there having experiences with a rebuilt edelbrock carb they
sell at jegs for around 160 bucks. thinking about getting one of em. any
other good source for a carb deal? (4bbl, 600 or 750 cfm)

regards, George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 13:38:06 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Trans fluid leak

In a message dated 98-08-15 19:11:35 EDT, you write:

<< My 70|442 does the same thing when its parked on my steep incline driveway.
 When the nose of the car is pointed towards the street{down hill}, the cars
fine.
 But if its sitting in the driveway *ss end towards the street, it leaks
tranny
 fluid so badly it runs down the driveway, leaving an ugly puddle towards the
 street.
 Just my .02 cents. >>

BTW, be carefull to watch the level ehen that happens. I just hadt to add 1
1/2 qts!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 12:52:09 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Distributor Help

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Thanks for all of the help on diagnosing my distributor.  I purchased an =
MSD Pro Billet distributor and installed it and found to have perfect =
control over my timing.  the chain was not stretched as i thought. it =
was a fubar HEI distributor. I now have completely tunable timing with =
extreme accuracy picked up a few horses too!
Brett Wilson=20
67 cutlass Convertible (still looking for a rolling chassis in Texas =
66-72)


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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT size=3D3>Thanks for all of the help on =
diagnosing=20
my distributor.&nbsp; I purchased an MSD Pro Billet distributor and =
installed it=20
and found to have perfect control over my timing.&nbsp; the chain was =
not=20
stretched as i thought. it was a fubar HEI distributor. I now have =
completely=20
tunable timing with extreme accuracy picked up a few horses=20
too!</FONT></FONT><FONT size=3D3></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT size=3D3>Brett Wilson =
</FONT></FONT><FONT=20
size=3D3></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT size=3D3>67 cutlass Convertible (still =
looking for=20
a rolling chassis in Texas 66-72)</FONT></FONT><FONT =
size=3D3></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 10:48:56 -0700
From: "John Young" <realtorjohn@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: W-30 Automatics (was HP question)

Since I do have OAI, TH-400, and power disc brakes I guess it must be W-32.
Besides it idles like my mom's old Delta 88. Thanks guys!
realtorjohn@sprynet.com
69 W-32 (!)

- ----------
> From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: W-30 Automatics (was HP question)
> Date: Monday, August 17, 1998 8:48 AM
>
> to the best of my knowledge the w-30 could not be had with power brakes
in
> 68-69 the factory literature doesnt allow this option...kk
> ________________
>
> I have to concur.  Everything I have says 1970 was the first year for
power
> brakes and A/C with the W-30, and with those options you did _not_ get
the
> 328 degree cam.
>
> Joe (yes, I do read your posts) Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 14:09:13 -0700
From: "BILL ROBITAILLE" <robitaille@microd.com>
Subject: 1981 Olds Delta 88

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Hi There

I am looking to buy the front and rear rubber bumper filler for my 1981 =
Olds Delta 88.  The vehicle has 36,000 original miles and I need to =
replace the two bumper fillers.  Where can I find them?

Thanks

Bill Robitaille

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<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hi There</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I am looking to buy the front and =
rear rubber=20
bumper filler for my 1981 Olds Delta 88.&nbsp; The vehicle has 36,000 =
original=20
miles and I need to replace the two bumper fillers.&nbsp; Where can I =
find=20
them?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Bill =
Robitaille</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 13:30:36 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: Suspension

Sounds neat.  I'd like to see a picture of it!
Brett Wilson
67 cutlass convertible (still lookinf for rolling chassis 66-72)
- -----Original Message-----
From: erik HILL <ehill@gowebway.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 17, 1998 11:07 AM
Subject: Re: Suspension


>hello G-bodies,
>
>my '88 has bilsteins at the corners, suspension technique front lowering
>springs and a set to "cut-to-match" rear bell-techs (estimate 2" fr-3"rr
>drop for the perfect level lowered look) and 17's w/235-40-17 pirelli
>p7000's
>stock front bar (will change) with rear bar from pont.gran.prix (med.sized
>bar- made a nice difference since car had none on back- will also upgrade
>to buick GN stuff)
>Moog offset pivot shaft (to get a good alignment setting while being
>lowered).
>Energy Suspension bushings.
>
>....she rides really good,....sporty, but not harsh,........ corners
>sharp,,,,,no tire squeal due to good grip tires---lower center of
>gravity---and premium shocks.....
>----------
>> From: James E. O'Donnell <CaIlaway@sprintmail.com>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: Suspension
>> Date: Sunday, August 16, 1998 7:02 AM
>>
>>
>> JJP442@aol.com wrote:
>> >
>> > I'm in New York also and have done the suspension on both my G bodies.
>This is
>> > what I recommend; Moog coil springs #5610 front, #5375 rear and Gabriel
>> > "black" gas shocks. This works really well for me. Oh... if you don't
>have
>> > anti-sway bars it would be a good idea to get some.
>> > Good Luck'
>> > JJP442@aol.com
>> > 1983 Hurst Olds
>> > 1987 442
>>
>> Hey, thanks for the advice. It's really appreciated. I'm not always the
>> best when it comes down to making decisions so I thought I'd just ask
>> the group. I knew someone out there had the answer and as far as the
>> anti-sway bars, the front has one but the rear doesn't. Any suggestions
>> as to where I can purchase one?
>>
>> By the way, I see that you listed you have a 1987 442. To me, that car
>> is the best 442 ever made. I love everything about it and came close to
>> owning one a little over a year ago. However, the guy wanted just a
>> little more than I had at the time. If you're ever in the market to sell
>> it, I would appreciate it if you kept me in mind.
>>
>> Many thanks and stay well.
>>
>> Cailaway@aol.com
>> 1987 Cutlass Supreme
>> 1988 Cutlass Supreme Classic

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 11:32:58 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Windshield

Mike Rothe. wrote:

> > here is from a 70-72.  The wagon is a 69.  The Olds parts books as well
> > as Hollanders show these to be different.  I suspect the only difference
> > is the fact that the 70-72's have the imbedded antenna.  Whereas the
> > 68-69's antennas are fender mounted.  As close as I can measure, it
> > appears it will fit.  Anybody interchanged these before?
>
> Installed a 72 Cutlass Supreme windshied WITH antenna on a a friend's 69
> Cutlass years ago.  Why?  He needed it, it was free, so no harm in
> trying.  We were like you, in thinking it would fit, since it seemed as
> the measurements showed it would.  Guess what?  It DOES!  Same rake,
> same windshield shape.  And the antenna isn't that noticable.  He still
> used the fender mount though.
>
> Mike Rothe


It fit, it's in, and no leaks!
Thanks guys for your input!
P.S. I'm going to use both antennas via a T-splice.

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 14:44:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: Christopher Casteel <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Polishing body trim ('68 Cutlass)

Well, finally got all the trim off the '68 <about 4 months behind schedule!>
Time to get it polished.

Talked to a couple of local shops who charge $15 a foot! YIKES! If I add it
up right, at this rate, it'll cost me more to have the trim polished than
having the bumpers rechromed.

So, surely polishing the trim is something I can do myself. What tools do I
need? What type of polishing compound is required? What should I NOT use?
Some of the window trim is aluminum, does this mean I should use something
else for aluminum?

Advice, suggestions, 2 cents, please.

Thanks,

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 15:23:35 -0400
From: "Rob Hussey" <RobHussey@namfg.com>
Subject: HELP!!!

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Hi I have an Olds.  Delta 88 Royale and am having trouble with the #1 =
wire location with respect to the power line in tab.  I just replaced =
the motor and am in the process of looking over the elect. system.  The =
car gets power and cranks and I have spark.  This is my best guess.

      Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

RobHussy@namfg.com

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<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi I have an =
Olds.&nbsp; Delta 88=20
Royale and am having trouble with the #1 wire location with respect to =
the power=20
line in tab.&nbsp; I just replaced the motor and am in the process of =
looking=20
over the elect. system.&nbsp; The car gets power and cranks and I have=20
spark.&nbsp; This is my best guess.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial =
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Any=20
assistance would be greatly appreciated.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:RobHussy@namfg.com">RobHussy@namfg.com</A></FONT></DIV></B=
ODY></HTML>

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1432
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