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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1416


oldsmobile-digest       Sunday, August 9 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1416



Who Wanted This Dual Gate Shifter Plate?
Re: VISTA CRUISER REAR WINDOW NEEDED
E-mail
July 1969 Hot Rod Magazine For Sale
Re: Separating out the Olds from the chaff :was the ( ! ) thing
How do I degree cam in an installed engine?
hot rod magazine
Re: 87 442 AKA Dinky Heads
conv. circuit breaker amps?
87 442 More info
Re: 87 442 AKA Dinky Heads
unsubscribe oldsmobile
Re: Vacuum tank
68-72 Front Disc Brake Interchange
Re: 87 442 AKA Dinky Heads
Shadow Box Transparency
Ebay UserIDs, was Shadow Box Transparency
Re: saw another one tonight
Re: smoked , wasEbay UserIDs, was Shadow Box Transparency
Re: 68-72 Front Disc Brake Interchange
Re: Ebay UserIDs, was Shadow Box Transparency
1956 brake drums from hell
Re: Ebay UserIDs, was Shadow Box Transparency
'87 442
'66 driveshaft diameter
Re: Ebay UserIDs, was Shadow Box Transparency
Re: 1956 brake drums from hell
Disc Brake Backing Plates Color?
Re: Disc Brake Backing Plates Color?
87 olds salon interior swap to86 olds cutlass supreme
87 olds salon interior swap to86 olds cutlass supreme
Re: saw another one tonight
Re: 1956 brake drums from hell
87 olds salon interior swap to86 olds cutlass supreme
87 olds salon interior swap to86 olds cutlass supreme
Soft Seal vs. Metro
Oil Pressure Light
Re: 87 442 AKA Dinky Heads
RE: conv. circuit breaker amps?
mileage problem
Re: Soft Seal vs. Metro
show in Mass
Re: mileage problem
'67 Toronado promo on ebay
OOPS...Soft Seal vs. Metro
Re: Oil Pressure Light
Re: '67 Toronado promo on ebay
Re: 1956 brake drums from hell
Re: mileage problem
Re: Soft Seal vs. Metro
Re: Soft Seal vs. Metro
Re: mileage problem
mail
Re: 1956 brake drums from hell
Need '70 455 Hot Air Pipe & Throttle Bushing
Re: '67 Toronado promo on ebay
Re: mail - and list removal
Re: mileage problem

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 12:53:59 -0400
From: "Thomas G. Stoner" <tgstoner@umich.edu>
Subject: Who Wanted This Dual Gate Shifter Plate?

Oh man, this is probably going to get me into the middle of a mess, but
I guess in all fairness I just have to do it.

About a year ago, someone (Jeff(?), I believe from the Philidelphia
area) contacted me about 1979 Hurst/Olds parts.  He was either a member
of this list, or had seen my ads at the time for selling our H/O in
Journey With Olds.  As I recall, I had just sold the car and was in the
process of selling my stash of extra '79 H/O parts.  He called me two or
three times and we talked quite a bit about an extra Dual Gate shifter
console plate which I was sure I had.  I was supposed to call him back
when I had located the part in the loft of my garage.

As most of you undoubtedly are painfully aware, I've been selling
Oldsmobile parts here on the list from the 30-year collection in my
garage for nearly 2 years now.  Y'all should be happy to hear that
nearly all of the parts are now gone and the loft is empty.  I never did
find that shifter console plate as the loft was cleaned out.  I had
given up on seeing it again.  Yesterday however, I was cleaning out a
back corner of the garage and there behind the old Make Trax video game
and mixed in with some extra John Deere lawn tractor parts was the
plate.  It must have fallen out of the loft to there, but is apparently
none the worse for wear because of it.  Of course in the past year, I've
now discarded the guy's telephone number.

Now that I've located the part, I'd like to locate the potential buyer
again too.  If it was you, or you think you might know who it was,
please contact me directly at the E-Mail address or telephone number
below.  And if it wasn't you but you're interested in buying an original
Dual Gate shifter plate for a 1978 to 1980 Cutlass console, you're going
to have to wait two or three months while I at least try to find the
person I had already promised it to.

TGS  (734) 663-3232

          ===
+======= | | | =======================+
|        | | |   Tom Stoner           |
|        |/|\|   OCA #3943            |
|        | | |   Ann Arbor, Michigan  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu   |
+=====================================+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 13:08:57 -0400
From: Jeffrey lane <bladernr@roava.net>
Subject: Re: VISTA CRUISER REAR WINDOW NEEDED

Since you live so close to me (yet another one) I have a couple
suggestions...  have you tried the autoglass places in Salem and
Roanoke?  There are quite a few glass placves in town that shoud be able
to find one for you.

And if that doesnt work, there are also a LOT of salvage yards here that
either have what you need, or they can get it from somewhere across the
country.  And you usually dont have to pay the shipping.  That is how I
gat a lot of parts for my old Monte Carlo, and my Cougar.

Good luck., and let me know if I can be of any help...

Jeff

Greg Pruett wrote:

> I doubt I'll find one locally.  Also I was wondering if anyone knows for
> sure if any A-body wagon rear window of the same year would work.
>
> It's a 1972 Vista Cruiser with a drop-swing tailgate and power rear
> window.
>
> I'm located in SW Virginia, close to Roanoke.  (Zip code 24153)
>
>
- --
><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><>

Jeffrey Lane, EMT-ST	ICQ#12362327

http://www.roava.net/~bladernr
bladernr@roava.net 	EMTBoy9@aol.com

Sr. Sergeant, Equipment Officer
Fort Lewis Rescue Squad, Inc.
Salem, VA

"Knowledge is power.  But power corrupts, and
corruption is a sin, so if you seek knowledge,
you will burn in hell. . ."

- ------------------Carpe Noctum------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 13:00:37 -0400
From: James & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: E-mail

Hey All

        I just went through some major upgrades on my computer and the one
thing that I did not get back was a parts list. If anyone has one of my most
recent ones could you E-mail it to me please. Much appreciated.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 13:16:57 -0400
From: "Thomas G. Stoner" <tgstoner@umich.edu>
Subject: July 1969 Hot Rod Magazine For Sale

I have a July 1969 Hot Rod magazine for sale.  The cover story in this
particular issue is "Olds Aluminum Can-Am 455" with the "700-plus
horsepower, dual-turbocharged, Lucas-injected, 455-inch aluminum
Oldsmobile V8" shown on the cover and detailed on a two-pages inside.
Also in this magazine is a two-page photo spread called "Experimentally
Speaking", which shows and briefly describes how "Oldsmobile has an
exotic array of engines that may someday find their way under your
hood".  Seven engines are shown (none of which made it under any
production car's hood, of course), including a SOHC 455 and a
twin-turbo, fuel injected engine designed for marine use.  And last but
certainly not least, there is a two page road test report on the 1969
Hurst/Olds, titled "Muscle Car With Luxury".  This magazine is complete
and in good condition.  Offered to the first respondant at $10.00,
including postage to any address in North America.  E-Mail me directly,
at the address below.  Thank you.

TGS
          ===
+======= | | | =======================+
|        | | |   Tom Stoner           |
|        |/|\|   OCA #3943            |
|        | | |   Ann Arbor, Michigan  |
|         ===    tgstoner@umich.edu   |
+=====================================+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 15:44:06 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Separating out the Olds from the chaff :was the ( ! ) thing

In a message dated 98-08-09 00:19:54 EDT, you write:

<< Why does my '67 Toro not start right away? It acts as though it perhaps
floods when I first start it...  almost like a vapor lock too...  weird...
could the gap on the plugs do this? Or maybe too small a batt?  or even the
idle set too high??? >>

We essentially have the same motor. Just different carbs.

Describe a normal start-up in detail.
Include when and how often any pedal-stomps occur.

Also when was the last time anything was done to your ignition system?
I mean plugs, wires, points, cap & rotor (Karl not know HEI!), as well as batt
and starter.

Also; do you know how old your batt cables are?

I would think that a 67 Qjet would have a decent idle and off-idle system.....

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 15:49:38 EDT
From: <JohnMonnin@aol.com>
Subject: How do I degree cam in an installed engine?

How can I check if my crank shaft to camshaft timing is correct w/o tearing
 apart the engine?
 I thought about taking off a valve cover on my 69 350 and checking the timing
 when my intake valve opens an closes but I have no idea when this should be.

 The long story is below.

 I installed a cloyes timing chain and I am trying to figure out if my car
 would start if I installed the crank gear on the wong keyway, for example if
I
 used the 4 degree advance keyway but lined the timing chain up with the 0
 degree mark.

 I installed a crank gear with with 3 keyways,
  - one plain keyway
  - one keyway with triangular grove
  - one keyway with simicircular grove.  ( I used this one on my car)

 The drive gear with the keyways had 3 timing marks:
  - a circle  ( I line the circle up with the timing chain gear mark)
  - a square
  - a triangle

 I bought the timing chain from Mondellos but received no instructions.

 Per phone converation with Mondello, to have o degree advance I was supposed
 to:
 - Turn the engine to top dead center (on my car the keyway on the crank was
at
 2 o'clock).
 - Line the circle timing mark on the top of the crank gear up with the dot on
 the bottom of the timing chain gear ( on my car this requires using the
keyway
 with the simicircular groove).

 After putting the car together it wouldn't start.  After checking compression
 I discovered that my timing distributor was installed 180 degrees out,  I
 would have sworn I had it right the first time but I didn't.  After flipping
 the the distrubutor I was able to start the car but I am getting backfires at
 starting and during acceleration.

 The timing seems to be OK at 8 degrees, the carburator is a worn two barrel
 that was giving me some problems but not this bad.   Is it possible that I
 ruined my acclerator pump and the engine is running this bad?


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 15:52:34 EDT
From: <Mikeytvb@aol.com>
Subject: hot rod magazine

did anyone read this months issue?  just wondering.  they had an article on
the 455 oldsmobile.  sorry if someone already posted this on the list.  i just
got back from vacation last night.

mikeytvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 16:07:50 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@viperlink.net>
Subject: Re: 87 442 AKA Dinky Heads

Angel Castrodad wrote:

> that there are two versions of the VIN 9 motor. Up to 85 1/2 they came with
> hydraulic cams (5A heads) and 86-87 came with roller cams (7A heads AKA:
> dinky heads).

Don't forget, with the dinky heads, you get dinky exhaust manifolds, and
a dinky intake...

Dinky isn't ACTUALLY a maker of Car parts, unless it's just whimpy...
hahaha

- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI
   87 Dinky Cutlass Supreme, with a Dinky 307 Y

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 16:04:19 -0400
From: ef01@sprynet.com
Subject: conv. circuit breaker amps?

I finally got my 66 delta 88 to pass inspection. nice to be sble to drive
it legally. Now i am trying to get the power top to work. Does anyone know
how many amps the circuit breaker is supposed to be? I can't find this in
the chasis manual. Previous owner attemped to repair the wiring if you know
what I mean. I picked up 50 amp two way swich for $4 at parts america to
operate the top.Original switch doesn't work. The switch bought looks
identical to one hydro-e-lectric sells for $17. I mounted it under the dash
using a housing from an extra flarestat i picked up at the junk yard.
Mounted it next to my flarestat. looks factory I didn't even have to drill
any holes. Thanks.

Erik Ferguson
ef01@sprynet.com

66 Delta 88 convertible
91 Delta 88

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 13:21:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: JM <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: 87 442 More info

- ---Will the person who stated yesterday about his buddy who just got
the 87 442,please contact me again.I've got more info for you....Pat
knows how to use the trash/delete button all to well,and I don't have
the senders address...well prolly got address,just bad memory.

                   Later,John



==
mailto:super442@yahoo.com           ICQ # 16956740
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73--http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof--307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 16:26:17 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: 87 442 AKA Dinky Heads

The exhaust manifolds are dinky, too?  I thought that they had the same size
ports as the 5A exhaust manifolds.  Even though the head's ports were
"dinky", the manifold's ports were "regular" size, no?

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@viperlink.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, August 09, 1998 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: 87 442 AKA Dinky Heads


>Don't forget, with the dinky heads, you get dinky exhaust manifolds, and
>a dinky intake...
>
>                - Jerry Christopher -
>IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
>       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI
>   87 Dinky Cutlass Supreme, with a Dinky 307 Y

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 14:45:21 -0600
From: "Travis Adams" <cashmore@imt.net>
Subject: unsubscribe oldsmobile

Got to leave the list for awhile.  I am off to Hawaii for my honeymoon.
Just got married last night and we are off today!  Thanks for all the info
and hope to see everyone again soon.

Travis Adams
65 442 Sports Coupe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 17:06:54 EDT
From: <WheelTrdr@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Vacuum tank

In a message dated 7/28/98 11:28:25 PM Central Daylight Time,
jimpat@netins.net writes:

<< Diesels used hyd from the power steering pump to power the brakes.  Just
 food for thought.

>>> +++ Cadilac  Eldorados  also  used  hydro-boost  ( p/s  hydraulic - vs.-
vacuum ) ...my $0.02  worth  >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Al / Wheel Trdr @aol.com ( not
currently  on  " list " )

 ----------
 > From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
 > To: olds chat <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
 > Subject: Vacuum tank
 > Date: Tuesday, July 28, 1998 8:33 PM
 >
 > My power disk brakes on my 69 442 "lack power" due to a radical cam
 > shaft....not enough manifold vaccum.  I've been thinking of adding an
 > original vacuum tank if I can find one.  I plan on running a hose from
 > the manifold to the vacuum tank and from the tank to the power brake
 > booster.  Anybody got any comments....will this help?  Does anyone have
 > one or know if they are still available through GM.  Thanks.  Wayne
 > Schwartz.
  >>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 17:27:51 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <jlabay@ee.net>
Subject: 68-72 Front Disc Brake Interchange

I need to get some new brake calipers on my 72 Cutlass Supreme since both are
froze up.  Is there a better caliper I can upgrade to off a different car? I am
staying with stock calipers, no pricey aftermarket stuff.  Would the calipers
off Vettes of F-bodies fit? Also what about better rotors? The ones I got 
should
have been trashed 15 years ago..deep groves in them.

Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500     88 Trans Am GTA
75 Hurst/Olds W-25    80 Olds 442 W-30
72 Cutlass Supreme Drag Car

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 17:32:42 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@viperlink.net>
Subject: Re: 87 442 AKA Dinky Heads

Jason Adcock wrote:
>
> The exhaust manifolds are dinky, too?  I thought that they had the same size
> ports as the 5A exhaust manifolds.  Even though the head's ports were
> "dinky", the manifold's ports were "regular" size, no?

87 Manifolds (At least) are the dinky manifolds.  The "Y" motor
manifolds will not work on any other head successfully...  :(  I know
not of the "9"'s but if they used 7A heads, I would be willing to bet
the same is true...

Now, the OTHER "9" manifolds, and early "Y" with the bigger ports are a
little better off...  <G>
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 17:43:34 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Shadow Box Transparency

Hey folks,

I've got another transparency for sale on ebay.  This has a '67
Vista-Cruiser.  Go to:

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=24844685

Thanks,

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 16:04:36 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Ebay UserIDs, was Shadow Box Transparency

oldsfan/Paul Hartlieb wrote: I've got another transparency on ebay.

Woah, that's you?  Cool.  Umm, I wonder if, as list members, we should take an
extra moment or two to either check the emails of bidders and sellers, to see 
if
they might be someone we know, or change the userID to something that reflects 
a
listmember status?  I think lots of listmembers check that stuff occasionally,
and I'd rather not outbid a fellow listmember, (unless it happens to be
something I ~really~ want, which is seldom the case...  I kinda smoked a couple
bidders on a 455 S/T bellhousing...  By $0.50...  I don't think they are list
members, but I'd feel a little bad if they were...

Any thoughts/comments?

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 18:16:13 EDT
From: <MFATZII@aol.com>
Subject: Re: saw another one tonight

In a message dated 8/9/98 12:36:38 AM Central Daylight Time,
ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu writes:

<<  And, to think my first car was almost a
 B*retta GT!!!!! Aaahh!!! Sure am glad I don't have a "me too" car!
  >>

Nothing wrong with Beretta's....in fact I've had mine for 5 years and have put
almost nothing into it  (repair wise) and have constantly beat the hell out of
it. 123,000 miles and still goin strong.  However it is an @sshole
car..everyone's got one.

Ryan (MFatzII@aol.com)
Lincoln,   Nebraska  (Home of the Cornhuskers, too bad they suck !)

56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project Rocket)
<A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click here</A>
85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
89 Chevy Beretta CL

   888                888
  8      8           8       8
8          8       8           8
  8      8           8       8
    8  8               8   8           LIVES
  8      8           8       8
8          8       8           8
  8     8            8       8
    888                888

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 18:23:13 EDT
From: <MFATZII@aol.com>
Subject: Re: smoked , wasEbay UserIDs, was Shadow Box Transparency

In a message dated 8/9/98 5:05:40 PM Central Daylight Time, buehner@lyrea.com
writes:

<<   I kinda smoked a couple
 bidders on a 455 S/T bellhousing...  By $0.50...  I don't think they are list
 members, but I'd feel a little bad if they were... >>


I got smoked myself a while back.....I was bidding on the aluminum dual quad
intake for 49-55 oldsmobile 324.....missed it by one  @#$!&^@#  dollar !


Ryan (MFatzII@aol.com)
Lincoln,   Nebraska  (Home of the Cornhuskers, too bad they suck !)

56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project Rocket)
<A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click here</A>
85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
89 Chevy Beretta CL

   888                888
  8      8           8       8
8          8       8           8
  8      8           8       8
    8  8               8   8           LIVES
  8      8           8       8
8          8       8           8
  8     8            8       8
    888                888

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 15:05:40 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: 68-72 Front Disc Brake Interchange

stainless steel brakes corp. can sell you rebuilt and stainless sleaved
calipers for your app. they dont just do corvette anymore...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jason P. Labay <jlabay@ee.net>
To: Oldsmobile Mailing List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, August 09, 1998 2:25 PM
Subject: 68-72 Front Disc Brake Interchange


>I need to get some new brake calipers on my 72 Cutlass Supreme since both
are froze up.  Is there a better caliper I can
>upgrade to off a different car? I am staying with stock calipers, no pricey
aftermarket stuff.  Would the calipers off
>Vettes of F-bodies fit? Also what about better rotors? The ones I got
should have been trashed 15 years ago..deep groves
>in them.
>
>Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
>98 Silverado C2500     88 Trans Am GTA
>75 Hurst/Olds W-25    80 Olds 442 W-30
>72 Cutlass Supreme Drag Car
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 18:43:14 -0400
From: Jeffrey lane <bladernr@roava.net>
Subject: Re: Ebay UserIDs, was Shadow Box Transparency

Hmmm...  I have a few bids out there on some olds stuff...  one is a 74
Cutlass Dealer's promo model.  The other was a radio...  but it wond fit
my Toro, so I gave up on it.

Methinks it is way too easy to get onto a war with someone.  I jsut
upped one bid on some fire/resuce toys to 55.00.  stuff is gettign too
expensive...  but I just cant live without it ya know??

And I think that maybe Paul got one of the trasparencies I bid on...
dont remember tho...  heh heh

we could change our ebay names to include soemthing like 442, or olds,
or something in the name to distinguish listmembers from everyone
else...  just a suggestion.

Oldsmagnet wrote:
>
> oldsfan/Paul Hartlieb wrote: I've got another transparency on ebay.
>
> Woah, that's you?  Cool.  Umm, I wonder if, as list members, we should take 
an
> extra moment or two to either check the emails of bidders and sellers, to see
if > they might be someone we know, or change the userID to something that
reflects a > listmember status?  I think lots of listmembers check that stuff
occasionally, > and I'd rather not outbid a fellow listmember, (unless it
happens to be > something I ~really~ want, which is seldom the case...  I kinda
smoked a couple > bidders on a 455 S/T bellhousing...  By $0.50...  I don't
think they are list > members, but I'd feel a little bad if they were... > >
Any thoughts/comments?

- --
><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> 67 Toronado  ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><>

Jeffrey Lane, EMT-ST	ICQ#12362327	http://www.roava.net/~bladernr
			bladernr@roava.net 	EMTBoy9@aol.com


Sr. Sergeant, Equipment Officer	|	EMT-ST/Driver
Fort Lewis Rescue Squad, Inc.		|	United Ambulance Service
Salem, Virginia				|	Roanoke, Virginia

"Knowledge is power.  But power corrupts, and corruption is a sin, so if
you seek knowledge, you will burn in hell. . ."

- -------------------------------Carpe
Noctum------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 18:39:17 EDT
From: <MFATZII@aol.com>
Subject: 1956 brake drums from hell

     Spent a very considerable amount of time this weekend on the 56 including
brake work, carburation...I think my electronic fuel pump is overpowering my
carb floats causing the car to run too rich among other things....regulator is
bad I think.....  Also switched my Mack truck battery cables to aluminum
cables and quick-release connectors on the battery posts.
     Anyway , here's the ?  4 wheel drum brakes and they are out of
adjustment.  Went to adjust them by removing the rubber plug on the back.  The
passenger side was adjustable but the driver side appears to be missing the
clicker gear thingy (you know the one that you can turn with a screw driver by
prying while lying on your back, upside down in order to see in the
hole......... Went to remove the drums (to look for the missing thingy) and
had no luck..can't even break them loose at all..I mean not at all ! even with
spraying penetrating fluid around the lug bolts and all else that looked like
fun spraying....my ? is (now that my fingers are out of breath)   is there
some sort of puller that can be used on the drum...the BFH dosen't work.
Heating them up w/ a torch maybe?   My next option is to take the car to a
brake shop that offers free brake inspections and let them take em' off .
Another quick question,  What is the spring for that goes around the outside
of the brake drum for?  besides testing my strength @#&@$# !  won't take that
damn thing off again!!

TIA

Ryan (MFatzII@aol.com)
Lincoln,   Nebraska  (Home of the Cornhuskers, too bad they suck !)

56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project Rocket)
<A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click here</A>
85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
89 Chevy Beretta CL

   888                888
  8      8           8       8
8          8       8           8
  8      8           8       8
    8  8               8   8           LIVES
  8      8           8       8
8          8       8           8
  8     8            8       8
    888                888

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 16:40:34 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Ebay UserIDs, was Shadow Box Transparency

> And I think that maybe Paul got one of the trasparencies I bid on...
> dont remember tho...  heh heh

Actually, I think Paul was the seller there...

> we could change our ebay names to include soemthing like 442, or olds,
> or something in the name to distinguish listmembers from everyone
> else...  just a suggestion.

There's aleady tons of something442, or 442something or somethingOlds or
Olds-something's out there already.  Seems like they usually end in aol.com, 
but
that's neither here nor there...

Maybe something@oldslist or something?  Especially for the more obscure ones,
like 442w30 or something.  I use Oldsmagnet, and as far as I know, (Thanks 
Karl)
no one else in existance has been given (or used) that title :)  I think most 
of
the listmembers know me as that.   I don't know...  Changing the names might be
a pain in the a$$, too.  I just worry about stepping on someone's toes here.

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 18:51:25 -0400
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: '87 442

Message text written by John
>1. What gear ratio was factory installed?

*** 3.73:1

2. Is the rear housing the 8.5"?

*** Yes, the only G-body to get one except the Regal T-Type and GRand
National - but the Buicks come with a 3.42 rear.


3. What is different about the 442 307 VS the 'regular' 307?
<

Different cam, exhaust manifolds, carburetor, Prom, dual exhaust from cat.
converter back.

170 hp vs 140 hp


Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma Plant
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E & 4L60-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'96 DCM Impala SS   '87 Olds Cutlass 442  '95 Grand Prix

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 16:03:47 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: '66 driveshaft diameter

I just pulled a driveshaft out of a '66 vista-cruiser at a junkyard
, sadly someone got the roof glass and broke some trying. :(
This new drifeshaft seems to be the right length, but is smaller in diameter,
about 3" compared to 5" one in my VC (its also about 60lbs lighter).
Can anyone forsee problems using this thinner driveshaft? It will
eventually be
behind a mostly stock 350, edelbrock carb/manifold/cam combo and a TH350
auto.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 19:14:08 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Ebay UserIDs, was Shadow Box Transparency

Oldsmagnet wrote:
>
> > And I think that maybe Paul got one of the trasparencies I bid on...
> > dont remember tho...  heh heh
>
> Actually, I think Paul was the seller there...

This is correct.  Any you've only got another two hours to bid if you
still want it.  I always like to see my items to a list member rather
than someone I don't know from Adam.  BTW, clearing time on checks is
waived for list members.  If you bounce the check I'll publicly
humiliate you and get Greg to throw you off the list. ;)

> I use Oldsmagnet,

Well, since you're using Oldsmagnet and I'm using Oldsfan, then it seems
like it's everyone else's responsiblilty to convert to oldssomething,
right?  Maybe we we could do something like Oldsmagnet@ or Oldsfan@, but
I don't know that I'm that wild about changing my ID, I just changed it
a little while ago, was using my email address like many others.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 19:17:02 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: 1956 brake drums from hell

  If the BFH doesn't work, then the torch is an option.  Try first to break
the rust with it.  As an absolute last resort you may need to cut the drum
off.  If you're not good with a torch or if you are not familiar with the
lay of the land behind the drum it would be best if you let someone who is
run the torch.  I presume that you cannot back the shoes off if you can't
adjust them out.  I also presume that you tried driving the drum ON when
employing the subtleties of the BFH.  Peter

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 19:36:38 -0400
From: Kevin Hoopingarner <khooping@bright.net>
Subject: Disc Brake Backing Plates Color?

Does anyone know the correct cadmium plating color for the disc brake
backing plates for a '70 442?  Were they silver only or the silver,green
& gold cadmium plating.

TIA

Kevin Hoopingarner
'70 Olds 442 W-30
Findlay OH.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 16:36:28 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Disc Brake Backing Plates Color?

silver only no green gold red
- -----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Hoopingarner <khooping@bright.net>
To: Oldslist <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, August 09, 1998 4:40 PM
Subject: Disc Brake Backing Plates Color?


>Does anyone know the correct cadmium plating color for the disc brake
>backing plates for a '70 442?  Were they silver only or the silver,green
>& gold cadmium plating.
>
>TIA
>
>Kevin Hoopingarner
>'70 Olds 442 W-30
>Findlay OH.
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 20:29:43 -0400
From: tw@acsworld.net (Troy A Wyland)
Subject: 87 olds salon interior swap to86 olds cutlass supreme

Hi,
     I need to know whats involved in the swapping of the dash of a 87 Olds
Salon to a 86 Olds Cutlass Supreme? The Salon has the Rally gauges and power
locks & power windows too? Is there major work involved in the gauge
replacement? I really hope your able to help me with the problem !!!!!!!
                     TroyA Wyland

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 20:31:10 -0400
From: tw@acsworld.net (Troy A Wyland)
Subject: 87 olds salon interior swap to86 olds cutlass supreme

Hi,
     I need to know whats involved in the swapping of the dash of a 87 Olds
Salon to a 86 Olds Cutlass Supreme? The Salon has the Rally gauges and power
locks & power windows too? Is there major work involved in the gauge
replacement? I really hope your able to help me with the problem !!!!!!!
                     TroyA Wyland

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 19:40:56 -0500 (CDT)
From: Kimberly Ann Wandrey <kaw0006@jove.acs.unt.edu>
Subject: Re: saw another one tonight

Hi Everyone!

I live in a smaller town in Texas. Junior (my '72 Cutlass Supreme) is
very watched and noticed. One time I drove my Grandmother's 85 Cutlass
Supreme to get tags for Junior (I think Junior's battery was dead or
something or other or I would have been driving him). I walked into the
Tax Office and there were two cops there and one said, Ma'm, where is your
blue Oldsmobile? I was totally blown away. OK guys, I promise that I am
really not that much of a troublemaker for the cops to recognize me. ;)

I told them Junior was at home and I was borrowing Grandma's car for the
day. One said, gosh, I thought you sold it. I told him not for millions of
dollars. The other cop told me to take care of it. He had one when he was
young and planned on getting another for shows.

Isnt it nice to be noticed? :) Without getting a ticket, that is. ;)

Kim & Junior ('72 Cutlass Supreme)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 20:28:43 -0400
From: ef01@sprynet.com
Subject: Re: 1956 brake drums from hell

Yes J.C. Whitney has a puller for drum brakes don't know how good it is.
They have a web page not sure of  the address. Not all the items in catalog
are listed on web page. penetrating oil won't help, try this instead: get
an assistant and the biggest sledge hammer you can find and 2' length of
4x4.put the 4x4 on the hub and beat the hell out of it sometimes this will
break it loose. getting a frozen brake drum loose is never easy or fun. Let
me know if whitney puller is any good.

Erik Ferguson

- ----------
> From: MFATZII@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 1956 brake drums from hell
> Date: Sunday, August 09, 1998 6:39 PM
>
>      Spent a very considerable amount of time this weekend on the 56
including
> brake work, carburation...I think my electronic fuel pump is overpowering
my
> carb floats causing the car to run too rich among other
things....regulator is
> bad I think.....  Also switched my Mack truck battery cables to aluminum
> cables and quick-release connectors on the battery posts.
>      Anyway , here's the ?  4 wheel drum brakes and they are out of
> adjustment.  Went to adjust them by removing the rubber plug on the back.
 The
> passenger side was adjustable but the driver side appears to be missing
the
> clicker gear thingy (you know the one that you can turn with a screw
driver by
> prying while lying on your back, upside down in order to see in the
> hole......... Went to remove the drums (to look for the missing thingy)
and
> had no luck..can't even break them loose at all..I mean not at all ! even
with
> spraying penetrating fluid around the lug bolts and all else that looked
like
> fun spraying....my ? is (now that my fingers are out of breath)   is
there
> some sort of puller that can be used on the drum...the BFH dosen't work.
> Heating them up w/ a torch maybe?   My next option is to take the car to
a
> brake shop that offers free brake inspections and let them take em' off .
> Another quick question,  What is the spring for that goes around the
outside
> of the brake drum for?  besides testing my strength @#&@$# !  won't take
that
> damn thing off again!!
>
> TIA
>
> Ryan (MFatzII@aol.com)
> Lincoln,   Nebraska  (Home of the Cornhuskers, too bad they suck !)
>
> 56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project Rocket)
> <A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click
here</A>
> 85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
> 89 Chevy Beretta CL
>
>    888                888
>   8      8           8       8
> 8          8       8           8
>   8      8           8       8
>     8  8               8   8           LIVES
>   8      8           8       8
> 8          8       8           8
>   8     8            8       8
>     888                888

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 20:37:49 -0400
From: tw@acsworld.net (Troy A Wyland)
Subject: 87 olds salon interior swap to86 olds cutlass supreme

Hi,
     I need to know whats involved in the swapping of the dash of a 87 Olds
Salon to a 86 Olds Cutlass Supreme? The Salon has the Rally gauges and power
locks & power windows too? Is there major work involved in the gauge
replacement? I really hope your able to help me with the problem !!!!!!!
                     TroyA Wyland

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 20:38:08 -0400
From: tw@acsworld.net (Troy A Wyland)
Subject: 87 olds salon interior swap to86 olds cutlass supreme

Hi,
     I need to know whats involved in the swapping of the dash of a 87 Olds
Salon to a 86 Olds Cutlass Supreme? The Salon has the Rally gauges and power
locks & power windows too? Is there major work involved in the gauge
replacement? I really hope your able to help me with the problem !!!!!!!
                     TroyA Wyland

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 19:55:15 -0500
From: "James Moore" <panman638@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Soft Seal vs. Metro

What is the best weather-strip to buy? I will be in the market very soon for
weatherstipping  on my 72 4-4-2.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 21:02:31 EDT
From: <RAC5419@aol.com>
Subject: Oil Pressure Light

Just got a 72 Cutlass with 350. After 7 to 10 miles of driving the idiot light
for oil pressure starts to flicker off and on when coming to a stop. The has
happened all 3 times I  drove it over 7 miles. Anything less than 7 miles no
problem  (so far). After the second time I replaced the oil sending switch but
the problem continued on the next 7 mile trip. It sure doesn't sound like an
oil pump since when that went on my 87 it was obvious from the sound and the
light stayed on continuously from the time it started. Any ideas on where to
look next?

Thanks to all.

RAC

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 21:05:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: 87 442 AKA Dinky Heads

> 87 Manifolds (At least) are the dinky manifolds.  The "Y" motor
> manifolds will not work on any other head successfully...  :(  I know

The cast manifolds from my 1988 VIN Y 307 matched up just fine to my 455.
I examined a set of manifolds from a 5A head 307; the ports were
identical in size, so I decided to use the original manifolds for the
pre-drilled O2 sensor fitting.  5A heads also have small exhaust ports
with floors that curve down dramatically at the exit to help accommodate
the larger "regular size" manifold openings.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 18:16:16 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: conv. circuit breaker amps?

This is a very high amperage circuit. I'd guess over 40 amps.
You'll see when you put the top up with the lights on it will
dim your headlights. There is supposed to be a circuit breaker
near your brake vacuum whatsis and under (or near) the
wiper motor. If you can get the original switch (check Fusicks)
do so, clean, soldered wiring is happy wiring.

cf (66 98 Conv.)

> -----Original Message-----
> From: ef01@sprynet.com [mailto:ef01@sprynet.com]
> Sent: Sunday, August 09, 1998 1:04 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: conv. circuit breaker amps?
>
>
> I finally got my 66 delta 88 to pass inspection. nice to be
> sble to drive
> it legally. Now i am trying to get the power top to work.
> Does anyone know
> how many amps the circuit breaker is supposed to be? I can't
> find this in
> the chasis manual. Previous owner attemped to repair the
> wiring if you know
> what I mean. I picked up 50 amp two way swich for $4 at parts
> america to
> operate the top.Original switch doesn't work. The switch bought looks
> identical to one hydro-e-lectric sells for $17. I mounted it
> under the dash
> using a housing from an extra flarestat i picked up at the junk yard.
> Mounted it next to my flarestat. looks factory I didn't even
> have to drill
> any holes. Thanks.
>
> Erik Ferguson
> ef01@sprynet.com
>
> 66 Delta 88 convertible
> 91 Delta 88
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 21:21:47 EDT
From: <KENSOLDS9@aol.com>
Subject: mileage problem

in december of 96 i bought a car from a car dealer on the west coast, i'am on
the east coast. the dealer said the car had  under 10,000 miles on it, so i
bought the car and had it shiped to me. NOW , all the paper work showed under
10,000 miles. SO, last week end i went to an olds show and met aguy who knew
the car , and he told me the in fact had over 100,000 on it and he could prove
it. so my question is , have any laws bin broken? and what can i do about it?
please give me some advice.    thanks   ken

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 18:23:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: JM <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Soft Seal vs. Metro

- ---James Moore <panman638@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>
> What is the best weather-strip to buy? I will be in the market very
soon for
> weatherstipping  on my 72 4-4-2.
>
> James,
       I can highly recommend soffseal,used them for years,never had a
problem.Can't say about metro,but "Buyer Beware" ,there are some cheap
made weatherstrips out there,again,I have no PERSONAL experience with
metro,just don't know,but A&M soffseal is good.
 My .02,
        John
http://A&Msoffseal.com  I think on the web
==
mailto:super442@yahoo.com           ICQ # 16956740
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73--http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof--307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 21:23:19 EDT
From: <RICH6986@aol.com>
Subject: show in Mass

this is for anyone who is going to the show in northampton mass aug 22 I need
directions i know i just go up 91 near exit 17 or 18 I am in ct so if anybody
can help TIA     Rich
81,82,85 cutlass supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 21:26:42 EDT
From: <KENSOLDS9@aol.com>
Subject: Re: mileage problem

for got to mention the car is a 69 olds

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 21:27:52 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: '67 Toronado promo on ebay

Hey folks,

They have a real sharp '67 Toro promo here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=24738973

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 18:20:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: JM <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: OOPS...Soft Seal vs. Metro

Sorry gang make that:
http://www.soffseal.com/

John
==
mailto:super442@yahoo.com           ICQ # 16956740
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73--http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof--307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 19:32:57 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Light

> Any ideas on where to look next?
>

Yes, you're bearings are worn out.  This is a common problem on all older (hi
mile) motors.  Upon startup, oil pressure is fine, but once the oil gets to
temparature, it thins out.  At low RPM's, the oil pressure falls low enough to
activate the warning light.  Nothing wrong with the electricals of it at all
(you're wasting money to replace any of those parts.)  Three things can be done
at this point.  1: Ovehaul the engine, $$$, but by far the ~best~ solution.  2:
Run better/heavier oil (band aid the situation) Or 3: Run it as is, and wait 
for
things to happen on their own (usually ends up to be costly)  Keep in mind the
factory idiot light sending units activate somewhere in the range of ~3~ psi.
Not a very happy number.  Only safe at idle.  That light comes on at revs, the
light is a bit misleading... It ~should~ say, at times like that, "Idiot! You
just blew up your engine!"  That's one of the reasons they call 'em idiot
lights, I guess.

If $$$ is available, go for the overhaul.  If not, at least get some good
quality thicker oil, like Castrol 20W50 or something of that nature.

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 19:36:40 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: '67 Toronado promo on ebay

> They have a real sharp '67 Toro promo here:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=24738973

Yup, pretty cool.  Hadn't seen that one yet...  BTW, that's one bada$$ gravel
road it's sitting on!!!  ;)

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 18:23:11 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: 1956 brake drums from hell

is it a front or rear drum a large 3 jaw gear puller will work also if you
hit the drum around the edge with a large dead blow hammer not love taps hit
the thing it will probably loosen up...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: ef01@sprynet.com <ef01@sprynet.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, August 09, 1998 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: 1956 brake drums from hell


>Yes J.C. Whitney has a puller for drum brakes don't know how good it is.
>They have a web page not sure of  the address. Not all the items in catalog
>are listed on web page. penetrating oil won't help, try this instead: get
>an assistant and the biggest sledge hammer you can find and 2' length of
>4x4.put the 4x4 on the hub and beat the hell out of it sometimes this will
>break it loose. getting a frozen brake drum loose is never easy or fun. Let
>me know if whitney puller is any good.
>
>Erik Ferguson
>
>----------
>> From: MFATZII@aol.com
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: 1956 brake drums from hell
>> Date: Sunday, August 09, 1998 6:39 PM
>>
>>      Spent a very considerable amount of time this weekend on the 56
>including
>> brake work, carburation...I think my electronic fuel pump is overpowering
>my
>> carb floats causing the car to run too rich among other
>things....regulator is
>> bad I think.....  Also switched my Mack truck battery cables to aluminum
>> cables and quick-release connectors on the battery posts.
>>      Anyway , here's the ?  4 wheel drum brakes and they are out of
>> adjustment.  Went to adjust them by removing the rubber plug on the back.
> The
>> passenger side was adjustable but the driver side appears to be missing
>the
>> clicker gear thingy (you know the one that you can turn with a screw
>driver by
>> prying while lying on your back, upside down in order to see in the
>> hole......... Went to remove the drums (to look for the missing thingy)
>and
>> had no luck..can't even break them loose at all..I mean not at all ! even
>with
>> spraying penetrating fluid around the lug bolts and all else that looked
>like
>> fun spraying....my ? is (now that my fingers are out of breath)   is
>there
>> some sort of puller that can be used on the drum...the BFH dosen't work.
>> Heating them up w/ a torch maybe?   My next option is to take the car to
>a
>> brake shop that offers free brake inspections and let them take em' off .
>> Another quick question,  What is the spring for that goes around the
>outside
>> of the brake drum for?  besides testing my strength @#&@$# !  won't take
>that
>> damn thing off again!!
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> Ryan (MFatzII@aol.com)
>> Lincoln,   Nebraska  (Home of the Cornhuskers, too bad they suck !)
>>
>> 56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project Rocket)
>> <A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click
>here</A>
>> 85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
>> 89 Chevy Beretta CL
>>
>>    888                888
>>   8      8           8       8
>> 8          8       8           8
>>   8      8           8       8
>>     8  8               8   8           LIVES
>>   8      8           8       8
>> 8          8       8           8
>>   8     8            8       8
>>     888                888

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 21:42:29 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: mileage problem

KENSOLDS9@aol.com wrote:
>
> in december of 96

It's been a long time...

> i bought a car from a car dealer on the west coast,

Where did the dealer claim this car came from?  Was is a West Coast car?

> i'am on
> the east coast. the dealer said the car had  under 10,000 miles on it, so i
> bought the car and had it shiped to me. NOW , all the paper work showed under
> 10,000 miles. SO, last week end i went to an olds show and met aguy who knew
> the car

You should've played Powerball the other week.  What do you suppose the
chances of that are?  Is he from the West Coast?  Was it originally an
East Coast car?

> , and he told me the in fact had over 100,000 on it and he could prove
> it.

I'd ask him to prove it.  How can he be so sure it's the same car?

> so my question is , have any laws bin broken?

Probably.  Federal truth in mileage law states that anything over 10
years old doesnt' require mileage to be disclosed.  But if he lied about
the mileage, then he misrepresented the vehicle.  That's fraud.  But
you'll need solit proof.

> and what can i do about it?

Wish I knew.

> please give me some advice.

Get the proof and contact a lawyer.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 18:27:37 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Soft Seal vs. Metro

metro is equal to softseal and steele is good too so the most widly
available is softseal so I'd go that route....kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: JM <super442@yahoo.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, August 09, 1998 6:23 PM
Subject: Re: Soft Seal vs. Metro


>
>
>
>
>
>---James Moore <panman638@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>>
>> What is the best weather-strip to buy? I will be in the market very
>soon for
>> weatherstipping  on my 72 4-4-2.
>>
>> James,
>       I can highly recommend soffseal,used them for years,never had a
>problem.Can't say about metro,but "Buyer Beware" ,there are some cheap
>made weatherstrips out there,again,I have no PERSONAL experience with
>metro,just don't know,but A&M soffseal is good.
> My .02,
>        John
>http://A&Msoffseal.com  I think on the web
>==
>mailto:super442@yahoo.com           ICQ # 16956740
>1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307
H.O./3.73--http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
>1984 Cutlass-Moonroof--307
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
>1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________
>DO YOU YAHOO!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 21:51:39 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Soft Seal vs. Metro

Kerry Kroger wrote:
>
> metro is equal to softseal and steele is good too so the most widly
> available is softseal so I'd go that route....kk

As more 2 cents....I've used both soffseal and metro.  Soffseal is
harder, less conforming.  Does ok if you close the trunk/doors and leave
them that way for a couple of days once installed.  Metro seals up right
off the bat, without standing or slamming to get an opening shut.  Both
are superior products, but as for using right out of the box, I'd
personally use metro.  My 71 has both.  Door seals are metro (just
recently), trunk and roof rail is Soffseal.  Took 2 days for the trunk
seal and the roofrail to conform.  But now it works ok.  And I THINK I
installed the trunk seal around 1991?...still looks and functions well.
The metro worked instantly.  Seals nice, no slamdunk of the door right
after installation either.  Durable little guys.

Opinion,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 22:03:11 EDT
From: <KENSOLDS9@aol.com>
Subject: Re: mileage problem

the guy who knows about the car ,had bought the car befor  i did and made them
take it back. he receved original papers that i never got to see. and the car
was aways a  west coast car , as far as i know.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 19:10:15 -0700
From: "les & cindy" <cputnam@gte.net>
Subject: mail

please stop sending me e-mail

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 22:10:20 EDT
From: <MFATZII@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 1956 brake drums from hell

     Thanks for all the help so far, also tried an air chisel (metal scrap
between chisel and back of drum lip) with no success. The drum is on the front
of the car, I wonder if taking the entire hub off and beating on it with it on
the ground would work?  What a lot of work to go through to inspect the
brakes.  The drum  (surprisingly enough) isn't rusted.  The passenger side
drum would move a little with a hammer but not enough for the naked eye to
see.  I could tell it was moving though because the drum would spin freely to
start off.  After a few blows from the hand sledge the drum would rub a little
bit on the pads (maybe the pads were moving)  Anyway like I said no rust that
I can see, it's just super dry and stuck.  Guess I'll look up the whitney
puller....any more ideas let me know...thought there might be some tricks I
didn't know about.  Never had this much trouble for something so minor.....

Ryan (MFatzII@aol.com)
Lincoln,   Nebraska  (Home of the Cornhuskers, too bad they suck !)

56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project Rocket)
<A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click here</A>
85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
89 Chevy Beretta CL

   888                888
  8      8           8       8
8          8       8           8
  8      8           8       8
    8  8               8   8           LIVES
  8      8           8       8
8          8       8           8
  8     8            8       8
    888                888

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 23:15:26 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Need '70 455 Hot Air Pipe & Throttle Bushing

My pal Steve's '70 SX is all detailed out now and almost ready to run, but
it turns out the hot air pipe he picked up to run from the exhaust manifold
shroud to the air cleaner is the wrong one. If anyone has one for a '70
455 4-bbl, please drop me a note privately. I think they differed
slightly from year to year, so he would really prefer to get one from a
'70 just to be sure.

He also seems to need a bushing that goes in the large eye at the end of
the throttle cable to properly mate up with the throttle arm on the carb.
He thought he had this, now he can't find it.

Any assistance greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 22:30:39 -0400
From: Jeffrey lane <bladernr@roava.net>
Subject: Re: '67 Toronado promo on ebay

damn...  I jsut bid as high as 80 on the Toro promo...  and I am still
outbid...  think I should keep going??  hmmm???  I no know.

But it is a really sharp Promo.  what do you guys think??

Paul Hartlieb wrote:
>
> Hey folks,
>
> They have a real sharp '67 Toro promo here:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=24738973
>
> Paul
> --
> Paul Hartlieb
> Myerstown, PA
> mailto:plh@nbn.net

- --
><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> 67 Toronado  ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><>

Jeffrey Lane, EMT-ST	ICQ#12362327	http://www.roava.net/~bladernr
			bladernr@roava.net 	EMTBoy9@aol.com


Sr. Sergeant, Equipment Officer	|	EMT-ST/Driver
Fort Lewis Rescue Squad, Inc.		|	United Ambulance Service
Salem, Virginia				|	Roanoke, Virginia

"Knowledge is power.  But power corrupts, and corruption is a sin, so if
you seek knowledge, you will burn in hell. . ."

- -------------------------------Carpe
Noctum------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 20:17:14 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: mail - and list removal

> please stop sending me e-mail

Hmph...  Guess I won't send them anymore mail :(

Folks, ~again~ I'll point to the bottom of this page, to the big arrows 
pointing
at the list FAQ page.  Here it is again:
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

On that page you'll find information for getting off this list.
- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 22:29:34 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: mileage problem

KENSOLDS9@aol.com wrote:
>
> in december of 96 i bought a car from a car dealer on the west coast, i'am on
> the east coast. the dealer said the car had  under 10,000 miles on it, so i
> bought the car and had it shiped to me. NOW , all the paper work showed under
> 10,000 miles. SO, last week end i went to an olds show and met aguy who knew
> the car , and he told me the in fact had over 100,000 on it and he could 
prove
> it. so my question is , have any laws bin broken? and what can i do about it?
> please give me some advice.

Well, I think that is called fraud or misrepresentation or something
along those lines.  If the dealer sold the car to you as low miles and
HONESTLY thought that to be true, he/she might have some relief from any
action you might bring.  OTOH if they repaired items on the car that was
obviously more worn than they should be for a low mileage vehicle then
they are back in the mix again.  If the car was transported across state
lines for delivery, then some federal regs might come into play also.

The other question you will obviously will have is who provided the
documentation.  That could prove interesting also.  You will need to
have a strong case before proceeding I would think.  I'm not an
attorney, but it would seem to me you could have both civil and criminal
possibilities here.  Good luck.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1416
*********************************
