Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1411


oldsmobile-digest       Friday, August 7 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1411



How much is it worth?
Re: old-motor to turbo-hydromatic converter
Re: G-body dash removal?
Re: I no longer fear expansion joints!
hey.. g-bodies--Tom--Jason--Mike--John--???
Re: Comfortron (was re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1409)
Re: Looking for Decals
Re: More Olds on TV/in film
G-Body emblem query
Bearings in a distributor??
Re: How much is it worth?
Afflictions
Re: Leaky Trans Cooler Line
Re: Re: 455 Saga (Good news/bad news)
Re: 65-67 400-425
Re: Looking for Decals
Yesterday's Junkyarding....
69 brake drum color- Update
Am I fooling myself? (long)
Re: How much is it worth?
Re: Looking for Decals
Re: Bearings in a distributor??
Re: Re: 455 Saga (Good news/bad news)
This List (was: Re: More F28 Olds Queries)
Security Lighting (for your Olds)
Re: harmonic balancer
Re: Am I fooling myself? (long)
Re: Leaky Trans Cooler Line
Re: harmonic balancer
Re: TH 400
Re: Bad Luck, A little humor
Re: SX for sale
Re: How much is it worth?
Re: I no longer fear expansion joints!
Re: harmonic balancer
RE: harmonic balancer
Re: TH 400
Re: Oil drain plug HELP?
Re: harmonic balancer
Re: TH 400
RE: harmonic balancer
Re: TH 400
Re: TH 400
Re: TH 400
Re: Looking for Decals
Re: harmonic balancer
JL's '80 350 has the shakes. A cure?
Yet more timing chain help
DMR/JM Olds Nats - Who is Going Where?
Re: Looking for Decals
Re: DMR/JM Olds Nats - Who is Going Where?
Re: TH 400
69 OAI

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 22:25:08 EDT
From: <KASOLDS@aol.com>
Subject: How much is it worth?

I just found a 72 Cutlass Supreme convertable for sale.  It has a 350 with air
conditioning and bucket seats.  The frame and floorboards look solid, but both
rear quarters have small rust holes.  Also the passenger door is rotted
through on the corner, and the seats are in bad shape.  The owner is asking
$3000.  It seems a little high to me.  Althogh, I do live in Wisconsin and to
get a convertable thats solid costs about $13000.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 22:52:24 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: old-motor to turbo-hydromatic converter

Listmembers,

I just got a new copy of Dave Smith Engineering's catalog, and it lists this
kit:

DS7080 TRANS CONVERSION

Convert your 1949-1964 Olds 303, 324, 371, or 394 to an up-to-date Powerglide,
T350, T400 or 700R4 Transmission.

Conversion kit includes all adapters, modified case, bolts and fasteners.

Customer must supply transmission case and flywheel.

Only $550.00

Dave Smith Engineering
Performance Components For Oldsmobile
P.O.Box 607
Corona, CA 91718-0607
Phone: (909) 371-7040 Fax: (909) 371-7012

I don't know any more about this kit, this is what Karen sent me with my order
and catalog.  Call Karen or Dave, I'm sure they can give you much more
information.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 22:05:29 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: G-body dash removal?

Oldsmagnet wrote:

> OK.  Here goes.

<BIG SNIP>

> Good luck!  I've done it a few times, so feel free to inquire for more
detailed > info as needed.

Thanks Charlie!  I'd say you've done it a few times! :)  You must've
either taken notes or own a shop manual.  Really appreciate the info,
now I'm not nearly as much in the dark.

Thanks again.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 22:03:26 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: I no longer fear expansion joints!

Arthur Hoffman wrote:
...can anyone impart unto
> me the knowledge of what kinds of 3-speeds will mate with a rocket 330
> with hopefully only minor modifications? if any?
>
> "T"ing in "A"

A Turbo-Hydramatic 350 with a BOP bolt pattern will fit with hardly any
modifications.  The 330 will bolt to any transmission that bolts to a 65
or newer rocket V8. As far as I know the only mod is adapting the
kickdown cable.  Someone who's done it before can give you a better idea
of exacly what's neccesary.  It won't require any drilling or cutting
anyway.

 You could also use a TH400 but you'd probably have to get another
driveshaft or shorten yours.  And unless there's a big-block rocket V8
in your future it's unneccesary.  The TH350 is much lighter than a TH400
and will live a very long time behind a 330.

If you want to go all out you can swap in a TH2004R.  It's an overdrive
and would allow you to install lower rear gears for better off-line
acclereation and improve your mileage to boot.  Better have your wallet
ready though since it's expensive to get one that's strong enough and
shifts worth a darn.  Most shift at 3000 RPM which is way too low and
the shifts are mushy.  It'd be about $1000 to get one built to shift
well and hold up to the 330.

Soooo.   The quickest/easiest/cheapest solution is a
TH350....Inexpensive and durable.


Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cultass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 22:59:13 -0000
From: "erik HILL" <ehill@gowebway.com>
Subject: hey.. g-bodies--Tom--Jason--Mike--John--???

I seems as though the '88 cutlass "knows" that a new engine is around the
corner....

I'm losing power really quick lately....and the temperature seems to be
going higher than normal.  on a hot day (with a/c running) she seems to
want to die-out at a light (hi-temp day, a/c on "max", brakes applied while
in gear [at light])

the longer I sit a the light, the worse the idle [and exhaust fumes] get.

I got a gut feeling that the carb is starving the motor for fuel, because
off-idle performance (above scenerio) is progressively deteriorating.  Oh,
and don't let me stop on a hill with a/c-hot day-three
passengers........uuutt -- ooohhh  {embarrasment approaching rapidly in
opposite direction}

is there a way to richen the idle abit with out the computer throwing a fit
!!

the carb was rebuilt (trak-auto stock rebuild kit) about 4 years
ago.....Damn just had a thought-----------------  throttle shaft bushings
???

In preparation for the 350 the car has 2 .5 pipe with flows, cat is gutted
out.....'nother thought----------------- would gutted cat fake out the 0-2
sensor to go extra lean ????

erik

PS.  Who's  "Kung-Fu" is the best ???
( for those unfamiliar -- I got that from the X-Files episode where Mulder
meets his buddies the "Lone Gunmen,"  or is it "Lone-Horsemen" ???)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 23:18:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Comfortron (was re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1409)

>Here is another one for the list.  This one is for anyone familiar
>with the Comfortron climate control system.  My '73 Delta is equipped
>with this system.  Is this system worth fixing or should I replace
>the controls with direct heating/cooling controls.  My concern is
>with the durability of the sensors.  It seems it might be cheaper to
>replace Comfortron with regular controls.  Any thoughts?

Though the Comfortron was complex, and the individual sensors can get
pricey, it is a rare occasion that you'd have one fail, and the Olds resto
parts places do have most available. The ones on my '69 Toro still work
perfectly. GM's electrical engineering in that era was excellent, so I
wouldn't be surprised if the sensors lasted your entire lifetime.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 00:30:16 EDT
From: <RICH6986@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for Decals

go to i think its www.paddockparts.com and get there catalog for cutlass they
have a lot of decals and i think they have the ones your looking for hope this
helps i got the catalog lot of great stuff but the parts that they have end at
77 and i have an 82 cutlass   Good Luck        Rich

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 00:49:11 -0400
From: "bill" <lewman@mindpulse.com>
Subject: Re: More Olds on TV/in film

1.  At the very beginning of the show with the Olsen twins (Family
Matters?), they are all going to attend a picnic in a 1961 Olds convertible,
the maroon colored one.  Note this was with the original show - the reruns
do not have this opening scene for some of them at least.

2.  For the opening scene in the "Prince of Belair", I think Will Smith is
delivered in a yellow 1949-50 Olds taxi as it looks similar to a Chevy but
looks an awful lot like mine.  It is hard to tell from the short time it is
on.

Bill Pritchett
lewman@mindpulse.com


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Lewman <Lewman>
Date: Tuesday, July 21, 1998 2:12 AM
Subject: Re: More Olds on TV/in film


>Boy, it's really too bad how these poor car owners are being exploited..
>
>I wonder if they worried about the lucrative calendar market when they
"risked
>it all" and got their cars "cast" in a commercial.  They must feel really
>dumb, seeing their car during the super bowl, or on the big screen.
>
>Point is, i remember the cars in every one of those shots, and I think it
>would be great to see my car there.  Too bad people who couldn't see past
>their dashboard had to sound off about a topic they knew nothing about.
>
>i will watch "That 70's Show", just to see the olds.
>
>Erik
>'69 Cutlass 'S' convertible
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 00:38:15 -0500
From: "Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
Subject: G-Body emblem query

Hey folks,

I was looking at the nose emblem on the 442 today, and
have a question for 442 and Cutlass owners about the
color of said emblem. The emblem in question is in the
nose of the car between the grills. It is the "standard"
Rocket logo that usually appears on most Olds.

Every one of these emblems that I have seen has a red
"background" color.

However, mine appears to have faded, to what I would
call a gold color. And the uniformity of the pigment is
very complete...not a trace or hint of red anywhere. I was
told that it was *possible* that 442s had a gold emblem
to match the gold stripes on the car.

So...just wondering what other G-Body 442/Cutlass owners
emblems look like. I'd be interested if a Cutlass owner had
a gold looking (faded) or red emblem, or a 442 owner had
a red one that was known to be original.

You can send me private mail, and I'll make sure to post
what I find out in a few days.

Thanks in advance,

- -Mark Tupper    1987 442    (OCA #30666)
 mtupper@palacenet.net        http://www.cyberglyphs.com/442/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 01:34:40 -0400
From: "Loris Scarnecchia" <loris@tir.com>
Subject: Bearings in a distributor??

Bearings in an HEI distributor?  I just rebuilt (I mean completely) an HEI I
picked up to put in my '68 and I didn't see any bearings.  Am I missing
something here?

- -Loris

>
>have you considered that the bearings in the distributor are shot?
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 00:51:11 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: How much is it worth?

Remember that with body rot, it will COST you alot to get it done right. If
the door is rotted through, than the door will have to be replaced or you
will have to weld $$$ new sheetmetal. If you pay $3000 for it and I bet it
will cost you about $5000 or more for body work and a nice paint job plus
interior work, which will be around maybe a $1000.00. So that a total of
$6000 or more, then you still have the drivetrain and undercarriage to
think about. So in the end the car could cost you $20,000.00 to complete
NICELY.

I know a guy who does body work and the SUPPLIES alone to get a car
primered and painted can cost about $4000, then if it needs new sheetmetal
or sheetmetal work throw in a couple of more grand, and then finally LABOR,
which will be easily about $2000.00.

I would look harder and wait to buy one thats solid. I live in Chicago(part
of the RUST-BELT) and had to llok about 2 years to find a true solid car.
It was a 72 442 Convt. and it was originally from TEXAS and never seen a
Midwest winter. Keep looking unless you have $$$$$ to spend. THEN GIVE ME A
CALL AND I CAN HELP YOU SPEND SOME OF THAT$$$.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: KASOLDS@aol.com
> To: Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: How much is it worth?
> Date: Thursday, August 06, 1998 9:25 PM
>
> I just found a 72 Cutlass Supreme convertable for sale.  It has a 350
with air
> conditioning and bucket seats.  The frame and floorboards look solid, but
both
> rear quarters have small rust holes.  Also the passenger door is rotted
> through on the corner, and the seats are in bad shape.  The owner is
asking
> $3000.  It seems a little high to me.  Althogh, I do live in Wisconsin
and to
> get a convertable thats solid costs about $13000.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 23:39:14 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Afflictions

I can certainly relate to the 'it ONLY has 240,000 miles'........etcetera:-)

Thanks Don - now I don't feel so bad about my  rather small 'group'.



Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible,  '72
Vista Cruiser, '80 GMC

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 00:54:57 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Leaky Trans Cooler Line

Working on the Olds, I don't know which causes more frustration sometimes,
the Olds or the girlfriend. Anyway, make sure you thread on the line by
hand, if it still leaks, try some Teflon tape. It probably is the radiator
fitting that is bad. The metal trans cooler lines have a flared end, so
they shouldn't leak.
Just remember, if you get frustrated, just walk away and the next day come
back with a fresh mind.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
> To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Leaky Trans Cooler Line
> Date: Thursday, August 06, 1998 7:08 PM
>
>
> It seems like if I didn't have bad luck with the Delta I wouldn't have
> any luck at all. Back at the first of the year I replaced the rad. The
> damn new rad leaked from day one. I put up with it for a while but it
> wasn't getting any better so I made use of the parts store warranty and
> got a replacement. Not such a good deal -- you have to swap it yourself
> and you're out the antifreeze you spill, etc. Anyhow, I did the swap
tonight.
>
> After starting it up to check for leaks I noticed that trans fluid was
> pumping out the lower line at the rad fitting. I retightened it a few
> times to no effect. The fluid appears to be coming out the back of the
> tubing nut, not from around the threads at the rad. The line itself
looked
> OK. It's dark, I banged my head on the hood and cut myself, I'm p*ss*d
> off, and I don't want to go back out there tonight. But I gotta know: am
I
> dead in the water? Last time I did this the trans lines were easy, no
> leaks, and tonight they seemed to go in equally well. I hope I don't have
> to splice a hose in there. Even then, I'd need to find an adapter
> somewhere. Arrgh! Geez, nothing is ever simple. :(
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 07:33:00 EDT
From: <SOMMERVLLE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Re: 455 Saga (Good news/bad news)

In a message dated 8/6/98, 6:36:20 PM, oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca writes:
<< Jeez, Joe, I'm surprised thats not my engine.  That was a fairly
comprehensive job done on you.  Most junk ends up here, in my garage.  My
wife and daughter will testify to this, if it becomes neccessary.  "What do
you mean you're getting another one?  You haven't finished the last one".
 Peter
>>
Peter, did you and I marry the same woman? That or you and I are leading
identical lifes in different parts of the contry. Glad to hear that I am not
the only person afflicted with the Olds collection syndrom. Chris

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 07:21:43 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: 65-67 400-425

>Finally, please do NOT drill the crank if not absolutely necessary. Drilling
>is irreversible and not all that many forged steel crankshafts are still
around.

Ok, clue me in as to why drilling the crank for a pilot bearing would be bad.
IMHO it would allow the crank to be used either way, stick or automatic.  Of
course with the new bearings available you can shorten the tranny input shaft
by a small amount and bypass drilling the crank altogether.  Much easier and
you can do the job yourself at home.  Supercars Unlimited and Dick Miller
Racing have these bearings.


Small block ch*vy cranks used to all be drilled regardless of original
transmission.  It was probably cheaper for the factory to manufacture all with
pilot holes than to set up a separate line for this mod.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 08:59:38 -0400
From: "George & Joan C. Lesperance" <gal1@MNSi.Net>
Subject: Re: Looking for Decals

On those decals - try Mark Cornea - you can probably find his ad in an
issue of JWO - he lives in Michigan but I'm not sure of his address.   If
he doesn't have them he might be able to locate them for you.  Mike
Fusick may also have what you need and he is also listed in an old JWO.
Joan

Dan Williams wrote:

> I'm looking for two decals that I don't know where to get.
>     1) The Frigidare decal for the air conditioner compressor
>     2) The decal for the back of the air cleaner that talks about the
> air cleaner element and stuff (This was originally painted white -
> probably a stencile from the factory).
>
> --
> Dan Williams                            442Much@plutonium.net
> Marion, IA                                     68 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 09:01:10 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Yesterday's Junkyarding....

Found TWO 73 Cutlass Supremes!!! One even had a PERFECT passenger side
grill that I managed to swipe for $10!!! Some decent Olds stuff there.
Tons of Olds motors in the pile, nothing earlier than 73-76. Mostly 3A
350's and 10/2A 260's, a couple 403's, and a few 307's. ONE 455 with J
heads, but I think that one's mine! Found a 70 Delta 88 with the motor
still in it. Surprised to find #6's on that vehicle!! Thought that would
have for sure had a 455?

I might go back to snag that 455 today, If anybody wants anything
specific, I'll see what I can do.
- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
         777777 33333
            77      33
Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
          77        33
         77     33333
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 08:03:16 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: 69 brake drum color- Update

I decided to take the W-31 for a spin around the neighborhood last
night, put the first of many spots of 'road grime' on the car, the
ground was wet.  When I came home I decided to clean out some of the
items in the car that won't be needed since she's going to the tranny
shop Sun.  I opened the trunk and took a few empty boxes out.  So I'm
standing there staring at the front drum brake assembly I bought a while
back (basically bought it for the good original style front drum) when I
said to myself 'Hey I'll check the original front drum that was on the
car to see what color it should be'  (As a side note this drum had to be
replaced because of some nasty grooves in it)  So I pick it up and
definitely notice spots of ~black~ paint on the surface.  So the
conclusion that can be drawn is that there's a very good chance the
original drums were painted black from the factory.  But I'm still gonna
go to an auto paint shop and try to figure out what paint code 384 is
supposed to be.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 09:04:32 EDT
From: <TomW30@aol.com>
Subject: Am I fooling myself? (long)

 I'm nearing the completion of the restoration of my '69 442. All the
mechanicals are done, interior is complete for now (will re-do bucket seats in
the future), most of the exterior is ready for painting (bare metal strip and
primer). I'm running low on funds I set aside for the project.
  I had planned on getting a professional paint job but I won't have the money
for it. All the articles I read on painting your own car make it sound
reasonable to do myself - but this is one task  I've never tried before. I'm
not aiming for a #1 car, just a nice daily driver. For those of you out there
who have painted cars before, am I fooling myself by thinking I can do a
decent job? I'm going to go the basecoat/clearcoat route. What about using a
HVLP sprayer? These sprayers are said to be easier to use but what about the
quality of the finished product?
  I've received nothing but solid advice from everyone on the list before so
I'm anxious to hear what you all think.
  Thanks in advance!

                                     Tom R.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 08:13:59 -0500
From: "David Popadic" <davepop@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: How much is it worth?

>through on the corner, and the seats are in bad shape.  The owner is asking
>$3000.  It seems a little high to me.  Althogh, I do live in Wisconsin and
to
>get a convertable thats solid costs about $13000.
>

Seems a little high to me.  I also live in Wisconsin (southeast to be
exact).  I just bought a 67 Cutlass Convertible for $4800, with NO RUST.
Interior is decent, not great, but not bad.  Top is in Excellent shape.
Don't know what a 72 would go for fixed up but with needing a door (or at
least major work) plus rear quarter work PLUS a paint job......

Just my 2 cents

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 09:25:06 -0400
From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for Decals

George & Joan C. Lesperance wrote:
>
> On those decals - try Mark Cornea - you can probably find his ad in an
> issue of JWO - he lives in Michigan but I'm not sure of his address.   If
> he doesn't have them he might be able to locate them for you.  Mike
> Fusick may also have what you need and he is also listed in an old JWO.
> Joan
>
> Dan Williams wrote:
>
> > I'm looking for two decals that I don't know where to get.
> >     1) The Frigidare decal for the air conditioner compressor
> >     2) The decal for the back of the air cleaner that talks about the
> > air cleaner element and stuff (This was originally painted white -
> > probably a stencile from the factory).
> >
> > --
> > Dan Williams                            442Much@plutonium.net
> > Marion, IA                                     68 442 Convertible

	Thanks Joan. I already forwarded a note to Dan.
       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
          Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 W30 stick ~ Red (of course)

                              <mailto:drdecal442@aol.com>
                              <mailto:mcornea@ford.com>

            Visit <http://members.aol.com/drdecal442/mcr.html>


            OCA# 4903
       	    OPC# 14
       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 06:11:48 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Bearings in a distributor??

they are bronze bushings the bottom one is the usual culprit some
aftermarket distributors have bearings...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Loris Scarnecchia <loris@tir.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, August 07, 1998 5:48 AM
Subject: Bearings in a distributor??


>Bearings in an HEI distributor?  I just rebuilt (I mean completely) an HEI
I
>picked up to put in my '68 and I didn't see any bearings.  Am I missing
>something here?
>
>-Loris
>
>>
>>have you considered that the bearings in the distributor are shot?
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 06:21:14 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Re: 455 Saga (Good news/bad news)

neither one of you is alone but alas I no longer have a woman in my life now
I can work on the car more...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com <SOMMERVLLE@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, August 07, 1998 5:50 AM
Subject: Re: Re: 455 Saga (Good news/bad news)


>In a message dated 8/6/98, 6:36:20 PM, oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca writes:
><< Jeez, Joe, I'm surprised thats not my engine.  That was a fairly
>comprehensive job done on you.  Most junk ends up here, in my garage.  My
>wife and daughter will testify to this, if it becomes neccessary.  "What do
>you mean you're getting another one?  You haven't finished the last one".
> Peter
>>>
>Peter, did you and I marry the same woman? That or you and I are leading
>identical lifes in different parts of the contry. Glad to hear that I am
not
>the only person afflicted with the Olds collection syndrom. Chris

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 09:28:30 -0400
From: tgstoner@umich.edu
Subject: This List (was: Re: More F28 Olds Queries)

On Thu, 06 Aug 1998 Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net> wrote:

a bunch of great information on a 1928 Oldsmobile F28, in response to
another member's questions.

******************
Isn't the depth of knowledge on this list just amazing?  This is a
wonderful resource.  Thanks to everyone who participates and in particular
to Greg for putting up with all of us and providing this forum.

Tom Stoner
Oldsmobile Club of America #3943
Ann Arbor, MI
tgstoner@umich.edu

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 15:49:44 -0400
From: tgstoner@umich.edu
Subject: Security Lighting (for your Olds)

On Thu, 6 Aug 1998 JonKrisInc@aol.com wrote:
> LIGHTS, LIGHTS and more LIGHTS. Vandals do not like to be seen.
Statistics
> show a burglar (or vandal) will pass your house if it's well lit. Use
motion
> sensors, they'll never know if you just woke up and threw on the lights.
> Good Luck
> Bruce

*********************
Not necessarily true.  Before anyone puts 175 watt mercury vapor light
fixtures at each corner of their garage to protect the Olds, they should
read the information in the document found at
http://www.darksky.org/ida/info24.html.

My yard light has a single 75 watt hologen bulb that's controlled by a
sensor which turns it on at dusk with only 20% brilliance (15 watts) and
turns it off again at dawn.  The sensor will also detect motion, and when
it does the lamp is switched to full brilliance.  I don't know about "the
bad guys", but the neighbor who was watching our house while we were on
vacation recently said that the change in brilliance "scared the hell out
of him" because he knew no one was supposed to be in the house and he was
sure someone had flipped a switch for that light as he walked up to it and
the house.  Also, our part of Ann Arbor has no streetlights, and the
monthly crime report nearly always shows us with having suffered no
problems.  I think that the lack of light keeps people who have no
legitimate business there, out of our neighborhood.  Of course your mileage
may vary.  But before you purchase and install any outside lighting, you
owe it to yourself and your neighbors to read the information on the
subject found at the IDA site noted above.  Thanks.

Tom Stoner
Oldsmobile Club of America #3943
Ann Arbor, MI
tgstoner@umich.edu

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 09:37:59 EDT
From: <ANTIQOLDS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer

In a message dated 98-08-06 18:15:49 EDT, you write:

<<
    Does any one know of a parts source that has new or rebuilt harmonic
balancers for a 67 330?
 Brett
  >>
Check Fusick Automotive  1-860-623-1589  (CT)

Everett  OCA# 1961  1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 06:26:37 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Am I fooling myself? (long)

The Painting is the easy part the prep is where all the work is make sure it
is flat dont think paint will hide things, it wont. the hvlp is easy to use
but keep in mind it sprays more paint at less pressure so beware of laying
on to much paint and getting sags and runs practice on an old junk yard hood
or something to get your stroke down and get the gun adjusted get a quart of
the same paint you will be using and practice with that this way you can
dial in the gun wear a good respirator paint is nasty stuff to breath
...happy painting...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: TomW30@aol.com <TomW30@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, August 07, 1998 6:07 AM
Subject: Am I fooling myself? (long)


> I'm nearing the completion of the restoration of my '69 442. All the
>mechanicals are done, interior is complete for now (will re-do bucket seats
in
>the future), most of the exterior is ready for painting (bare metal strip
and
>primer). I'm running low on funds I set aside for the project.
>  I had planned on getting a professional paint job but I won't have the
money
>for it. All the articles I read on painting your own car make it sound
>reasonable to do myself - but this is one task  I've never tried before.
I'm
>not aiming for a #1 car, just a nice daily driver. For those of you out
there
>who have painted cars before, am I fooling myself by thinking I can do a
>decent job? I'm going to go the basecoat/clearcoat route. What about using
a
>HVLP sprayer? These sprayers are said to be easier to use but what about
the
>quality of the finished product?
>  I've received nothing but solid advice from everyone on the list before
so
>I'm anxious to hear what you all think.
>  Thanks in advance!
>
>                                     Tom R.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 10:07:59 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Leaky Trans Cooler Line

Greg.

One of the most frustrating tasks I've found while working on a car is
trying to get inverted flare fittings to line back up after taking them
apart.  Invariably, the springiness in the hard line cause the flare nut to
be at a slightly incorrect angle to mate up with the threads on the female
fitting, resulting in endless cussing.  I've certainly cross-threaded my
share.

Which, of course, brings me to your situation (though I hate to even think
about it).  The flare nut should be able to be threaded most of the way
into the cooler by hand (though side loads due to the hard line will
definitely increase the force required).  The seal is made by the flare on
the tube, _not_ the threads on the flare nut.  To those who suggested
teflon tape; it _should not_ be used on flare nut fittings, only on pipe
thread fittings.  Think about it:  Even if you managed to use the teflon
tape to seal between the flare nut and the fitting, what seals between the
tube and the flare nut?

Someone else suggested pulling the flare nut back and inspecting the flare
for burrs or nicks, which is excellent advice.  Also be sure to carefully
inspect the seat in the cooler's female fitting - it may have been
defective.  And, of course, verify that the threads have not been damaged
on either side.  Unless you've been flexing the hard line quite a bit, or
there's a point where it had been rubbing for some length of time, I
seriously doubt that there's a leak in the line itself.  The soft steel
used in these lines is very ductile, so it will bend a lot before cracking.

In the event of a worst-case scenario (stripped fitting in the cooler), you
have an option.  Assuming you can't return the radiator yet again (don't
know how they view a damaged fitting on a warranty return), consider a
cheap aux tranny cooler instead.  While not totally sanitary, I've seen
these units installed where the cooler hose was just hose-clamped over the
flare in the hard line.  The flare has the advantage of helping to retain
the hose under pressure.

Finally, if you do find that it's a hole in the line, consider using a
compression fitting to splice in the new section.  These are the brass
fittings which use a nut to compress a brass furrule (ferrule?  ferreul?
Heck, a brass _ring_) over the straight end of the tube.  Tranny cooler
lines are not very high pressure, so this works fine (as I can attest).

Good luck.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 09:50:26 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer

   Does any one know of a parts source that has new or rebuilt harmonic
balancers for a 67 330?
Brett
__________

Brett, try Damper Dudes, 800-413-2673.

Also, if you're interersted, I have a good used balancer off a 67 330.
Please email privately if you're interested.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 09:52:22 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: TH 400

Will a TH 400 out of a 75 Pontiac Catalina bolt in place of the TH 400 that
came stock in my 1970 442?

Keith
___________

Likely not, as the Catalina probably uses the long tailshaft TH400, while
the 442 uses the short tailshaft version.  Whatever you do, be sure to hang
on the the original trans case from your 442, since it has an ID code
unique to that car.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 07:18:10 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Bad Luck, A little humor

> Bright idea, put a 45,000 volt neon transformer under the bumper.
> [...] it rained, voltage jumped from the rims to the steel belts,
> four flat tires. Sell that to the insurance company. Had to share
> that.

Um, not that I totally believe this story, but it seems to me that
the first toddler who wanders over to inspect the shiny car is going
to get cremated. Does he have a good lawyer, by any chance?

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 10:04:56 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: SX for sale

I talked with the seller of this car last night.  He's definitely not a
salesman.  He said the engine is indeed rebuilt but he had no info as to
what exactly was done.  Said the car had no dents, some minor surface rust.
Bench seats, light blue, dark blue interior, vinyl top.  PDB, no sway bar,
no boxed control arms, cutout bumpers, seats need to be recovered.  Anyway,
sounds like it could be a reasonable deal, depending on the engine condition.
Very annoying to talk with a seller who doesn't really want to sell his car
and/or doesn't seem to know much about the car...

Todd Morris
Program Marketing
8/262-1658 or 301-803-1658, or fax 2845
6710 Rockledge Drive, Bethesda, MD 20817



oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca on 08-06-98 05:56:20 PM
Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
cc:
Subject: Re: SX for sale


  Car is still advertised in  today's edition of "Bargain News". It's a weekly
newspaper that comes out on Thursdays. As I said before, I no nothing about
this car other than it has been in the paper the last two editions. It may be
a real clunker, but then again it might be a real steal. Good luck to anyone
interested.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 10:06:00 -0400
From: D Frizsell <dfrizsell@WCUVAX1.WCU.EDU>
Subject: Re: How much is it worth?

KASOLDS@aol.com wrote:

> <...The owner is asking $3000..>



Yea, that's to high from that you described. How's the top? Does it work
properly? Does the car run OK? He's probably just trying to see what he can get
out of it. Sounds more like he's got about a $1800-$2000 car to me.

D-man

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 10:24:05 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: I no longer fear expansion joints!

I'm obsessed now...can anyone impart unto
me the knowledge of what kinds of 3-speeds will mate with a rocket 330
with hopefully only minor modifications? if any?

"T"ing in "A"
________________

Greg Pruett had some excellent suggestions in his post, but I'd like to add
a couple of considerations.

First, both the original Jetaway and the TH400 use electric kickdown
actuation, while the TH350 uses a mechanical cable.  If you got with the
TH400, the kickdown switch and wiring from your original setup can be used
as is (unless you had a switch pitch Jetaway, in which case you'll have two
wires going to the tranny, whereas the TH400 will almost certainly use only
one.  Get the single wire TH400 connector and splice it on to the kickdown
wire from the Jetaway.  Ignore the other).

The TH 400 is obviously longer than the Jetaway, but the TH400 was also a
factory option in 67, so the mount locations should already be in place on
your car.  You will need a shorter driveshaft and the correct, larger front
yoke.  The TH400 _is_ overkill for your car but on the other hand, you'll
never hurt it, either.

The TH350 is certainly an excellent choice behind a 330, as the length is
the same as a Jetaway and is certainly strong enough.  Be aware of the
kickdown linkage, however.  As I noted, the TH350 uses a cable.  Depending
on the car it came from, this cable will either pass through the firewall
and be activated from the gas pedal (as used on 69-72 A-bodies, for
example) or it can attach to the carb throttle arm (some late 70s B-bodies,
for example).  Your car unfortunately has neither provision, though the
carb actuation would be easier to implement.  You'll need to scrounge or
fabricate a bracket at the carb and your carb may or may not have a
provision on it's throttle arm that can be used to attach the cable.

Sorry I don't know enough about the 200R4 to be of any help there.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 09:27:50 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer

FYI
Dick Miller (I talked to him last night)
Will rebuild it for $98.  What he does is disassemble, clean, shot-peen,
reassemble, melt in new rubber sleeve.
Brett

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 09:36:27 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: harmonic balancer

Cool, thanks Brett.  I'll file this away in case I need to have this
done on the W-31.

Good luck with your balancer.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

>----------
>From: 	Brett Wilson[SMTP:bwilson@dmotorworks.com]
>Sent: 	Friday, August 07, 1998 9:27 AM
>To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: 	Re: harmonic balancer
>
>FYI
>Dick Miller (I talked to him last night)
>Will rebuild it for $98.  What he does is disassemble, clean, shot-peen,
>reassemble, melt in new rubber sleeve.
>Brett
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 10:44:21 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: TH 400

In a message dated 98-08-07 10:23:05 EDT, you write:

<< Will a TH 400 out of a 75 Pontiac Catalina bolt in place of the TH 400 that
 came stock in my 1970 442?

 Keith
 ______ >>


Keith, Strip all the parts out of the transmissions, and swap them, if you are
concerned with keeping the original case, but don't have storage. Not hard if
you don't disassemble the clutch drums/packs. But don't toss the old case
either..paid $50 bucks for the case alone in my car. Solve your tailshaft,
extension housing, speedo gear, and shift feel problems, if there are any.
Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 10:07:03 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Oil drain plug HELP?

Sorry, been out of the Automotive business for a few years now. I would try
Napa. Check their master catalog. I'd wager that they are listed and
pictured in there. It seems as though the "Help!" brand of doohickys would
have that sort of thing.

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Comid <Comid>
Date: Tuesday, August 04, 1998 4:32 PM
Subject: Re: Oil drain plug HELP?


>
>Received: from halifax.chebucto.ns.ca [129.173.4.205] by jellico.com with
smtp
> id BABPBPFD ; Tue, 4 Aug 1998 16:31:32 -0500
>Received: by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca id <36491-14690>; Tue, 4 Aug 1998
17:28:30 -0300
>Received: from te6000.ocs.lsu.edu ([130.39.76.56]:1935 "HELO
te6000.otc.lsu.edu" ident: "NO-IDENT-SERVICE") by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca
with SMTP id <36444-14690>; Tue, 4 Aug 1998 17:27:59 -0300
>Received: from one.camd.lsu.edu by te6000.otc.lsu.edu (AIX 3.2/UCB
5.64/4.03.LSU-OTC.921207)
>          id AA46098; Tue, 4 Aug 1998 15:27:52 -0500
>Received: by one.camd.lsu.edu (AIX 4.1/UCB 5.64/4.03)
>          id AA19366; Tue, 4 Aug 1998 15:25:48 -0500
>Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 15:25:48 -0500 (CDT)
>From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Re: Oil drain plug HELP?
>In-Reply-To: <01bdbfed$98366d20$332da2ce@coarl>
>Message-Id: <Pine.A32.3.91.980804152154.19006A-100000@one.camd.lsu.edu>
>X-Orcpt: rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h
chebucto.ns.ca oldsmobile-mml"
>Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>
>That sounds great BUT:
>
>Where can you get a rubber drain plug like that ???????????
>
>I tried AutoZone, HiLo, Carquest... but none of them has what you are
>talking about. A friend of mine used exactly what you did years ago but
>also has no idea where to get them!
>
>Do you still use them and have them in stock (can you send me one if I mail
>you a check?)
>Thanks, George
>
>-----
>
>> If you can't get a self tapping one to work, I have used a rubber drain
plug
>> on customers cars that comes with an installation tool. You put the plug
on
>> the tool which stretches it way out straight. Insert it into the hole and
>> twist and pull the plug out. Sounds hokey, but I've never seen one fail.
>> I've probably put 10 of them in 10 cars in ten years. As far as I know,
none
>> have failed (or even leaked).
>
>------
>
>George:
>> >the oil drain plug thread on my L*nc*ln is totally messed up (not by me,
>> >by the former owner who must have brought it to a bad lube place.)
>> >I definetly need to do the oil change soon but don't want to take out
the
>> >oil pan to weld on a nut. (That is the only idea I have so far...)
>> >The bolt plug is already one of those thread self cutting things you can
>> >get here in the part stores... so that won't work anymore.
>> >
>> >Does anyone know a place (catalog) where you can order plugs with a
>> >rubber gasket which swells up when you tighten the screw? I know, this
is
>> >not a good solution for an Olds but for an old 460 to pull an Olds it is
>> >definetly enough...
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 07:50:25 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer

Brett Wilson wrote:

> Dick Miller (I talked to him last night)

Does Dick Miller have a web site?

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 10:51:40 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: TH 400

Keith, Strip all the parts out of the transmissions, and swap them, if you
are
concerned with keeping the original case, but don't have storage. Not hard
if
you don't disassemble the clutch drums/packs. But don't toss the old case
either..paid $50 bucks for the case alone in my car. Solve your tailshaft,
extension housing, speedo gear, and shift feel problems, if there are any.
Dorian
_________

Uh, at that point, why not just rebuild the original?

Actually, I rebuilt a TH400 using one of B&M's complete rebuild kits.  I'd
never touched the internals of an automatic before, but the instructions
were quite clear and easy to follow.  The only problem I had was that this
was the trans from my H/O, which apparently used an extra disc in one of
the clutch packs (six composite discs as opposed to five in most TH400s).
It took a fair amount of time to order another disc from B&M.

I also installed a Kenne-Bell switch pitch conversion kit (pump, converter,
and solenoid) at the same time.  The tranny worked great behind a built,
dual quad, nitrous-ed 455.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 09:55:54 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: harmonic balancer

>----------
>From: 	Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)[SMTP:mrada@catalina-inter.net]
>Sent: 	Friday, August 07, 1998 9:50 AM
>To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: 	Re: harmonic balancer
>
>Brett Wilson wrote:
>
>> Dick Miller (I talked to him last night)
>
>Does Dick Miller have a web site?

Yes
http://www.mspmall.com/dmr

email > dmracing1@aol.com

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 11:00:21 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: TH 400

In a message dated 98-08-07 10:58:02 EDT, you write:

<< Uh, at that point, why not just rebuild the original? >>


Because it's about $200 cheaper : ) How did you compress the clutch pack
springs? You say it is easy..if I didn't have a press in the garage, I would
have been dragging all the parts over to the local trans shop....Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 11:09:55 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: TH 400

<< Uh, at that point, why not just rebuild the original? >>


Because it's about $200 cheaper : ) How did you compress the clutch pack
springs? You say it is easy..if I didn't have a press in the garage, I
would
have been dragging all the parts over to the local trans shop....Dorian
_________________

The B&M kit cost me about $150 (OK, it was over ten years ago - don't know
what today's price is).  I was able to compress the clutch packs using two
large (~6-8") C-clamps.  The only trip I made to the tranny shop was to get
a new kickdown solenoid, as the insulation on the wire on the original one
had hardened and was flaking off.

Actually, I didn't say it was easy. I did say that the instructions were
very clearly written and easy to follow.  The C-clamp method of compressing
the clutch packs took a couple of extra hands (be sure to compress the
C-clamps evenly) and there were a ton of small parts to keep track of.  It
requires attention to detail, but I feel that anyone who can build an
engine can also put a tranny together.

You're right, simply swapping the guts is easier and cheaper than a
rebuild.  My own opinion is that if you're going that far into the
transmission, you'd feel really silly if a year later you had to pull it
again to rebuild it.  Of course, this is exactly the MIGHTASWELL problem
that all of us are so painfully familiar with - and I'm one of the biggest
mightaswellers around.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 11:19:51 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: TH 400

In a message dated 98-08-07 11:17:06 EDT, you write:

<< You're right, simply swapping the guts is easier and cheaper than a
 rebuild.  My own opinion is that if you're going that far into the
 transmission, you'd feel really silly if a year later you had to pull it
 again to rebuild it.  Of course, this is exactly the MIGHTASWELL problem
 that all of us are so painfully familiar with - and I'm one of the biggest
 mightaswellers around. >>


I'm one of the NOTENOUGHCASH guys, and I was thinking that since this guy
mentioned using another trans compoletely, he may be in the same boat. I'm all
for saving money for important things, like insurance, tabs, the occassional
engine rebuild, tranny rebuild, etc. : ) Aren't cars cheap fun? Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 11:30:24 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for Decals

In a message dated 98-08-06 20:20:54 EDT, you write:

<   1) The Frigidare decal for the air conditioner compressor
     2) The decal for the back of the air cleaner that talks about the
 air cleaner element and stuff (This was originally painted white -
 probably a stencile from the factory).
  --
 Dan Williams                            442Much@plutonium.net
 Marion, IA                                     68 442 Convertible  >>

Jeez, how do I say this....

I am hoping that Mark Cornea has answered and I just have not seen it.

Um, Dan?

I can put you onto a source for these decals.....

But our very own Dr. Decal *might* have these as well, in which case....

I mean, best if communicating with the proprietor hisself, right?

Uh, right?

Mark?

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 11:30:23 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer

In a message dated 98-08-06 19:39:29 EDT, you write:

<< new or rebuilt harmonic balancers for a 67 330? > Brett 


< Year one sells them for '68-72. I'd call them (alot of their parts listed
for 68-72 fit other years) >

There is an outfit in CA called something like "Damper Dudes".

Remember that feller (started as an unbounce I think) who needed one for a
1961 Dynamic 88? And the ensuing discussion?

He ended up getting a correct damper with a five year (or some such) warranty
for approx $120.

Come to think of it, I wish I had known about these guys about five months
ago.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 11:30:22 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: JL's '80 350 has the shakes. A cure?

In a message dated 98-08-06 20:52:50 EDT, you write:

<< when it gets up to operating temp it lopes as if it has a cam and will
occasionally stall if it is in gear  >>

In "RocketTalk" I made an educated guess, and this bit clinches it.

JL did not give the entire details of his detailing.

He painted his Q-Jet gold.

While it was on the car!

I will take my jabs at Jason for this one at a later time.

What is important now is that I explain why painting the carb (especially into
the venturii!) is bad.

On Rochester carbs, the idle and off-idle fuel delivery is provided by tiny
ports or slots located approx at the throttle plates (just above and below).
The idle system gets it air from a tiny main air bleed usually located above
the venturi but still a part of the venturii cluster which removes as a single
piece from the primary air passage.

These (one for each carb bore) air bleeds allow an inlet of air which both
allows an early fuel-air premix and (the important part) uses the pressure
differential across the distance between the air-bleed and the throttle plates
to dispense the idle and off-idle fuel!

Considering how narrow these passages are, Jason is probably lucky that his
car will idle at all.

But now let's see how Jason can fix this without a rebuild.

The key here is to remove the paint blockage without getting bits of cured
paint caught DEEP in his Quadrajet!

Jason should probably start the car so theat he can tell if he is making
improvements.
(OTOH could be bad...)

It is possible that all that is required is application of a flammable but NOT
explosive chemical might do the trick.

Would starting fluid dissolve paint?
(I think I can test that theory here if necessary [not that I intend to paint
my carb!] as I have starting fluid here somewhere)

Chemicals like MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) an toluene should break up most
paints and are slightly flammable.

Is paint thinner or turpentine even an option here?

If Jason just manages to break up the clog slightly, will bits sucked into the
idle tube dissolve in gasoline?

See, one problem could be that there is an orifice just inside that aids in
mixing fuel and air that could be even smaller than the air bleed...

What we are looking for is a way to dissolve the paint clog but not damage any
car parts, or Jason!

Suggestions?

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 11:30:26 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Yet more timing chain help

<<  Several timing lights have been used. I may be wrong with the numbers but
I am pretty sure i'm not.  I'll check that later.  Do you know of anyone
(besides year-one) who sells a balancer for my 67 330? I could be reading ....
>>

Brett,  (a general response)

The true sign of a bad timing chain is a timing mark that typically can be set
for optimal operation many more degrees before TDC than should be possible.
Period.

Your timing mark should remain steady, barring changes in RPM and vaccuum.

Also, there should be (as I would expect you to know from prior swaps) ZERO
play in your timing chain. Especially when a new one is installed. As a matter
of fact it should be slightly difficult to get the cam gear (with chain on)
over the end of the camshaft, as you are stretching taut a new chain.

It is possible that your timing mark may have moved IF the outer ring on your
balancer has rotated slightly across the hub and O-ring. I have not heard of
that happening.

You will kindly forgive this as being my opinion, but I believe the problem is
not in chain or balancer, but elsewhere. I naturally suspect the distributor,
but then I dislike HEI.

I am curious what you mean by "eats cap and rotor [sets]". Do these break or
become useless through wear?

Further, what is your dwell set at?
I might have an idea about the problem which again points to a defective
distributor shaft.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 11:34:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: DMR/JM Olds Nats - Who is Going Where?

Topic says it all.  Who is going to the Dick Miller or Mondello Nationals
on August 16th..

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 11:36:58 -0400
From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for Decals

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 98-08-06 20:20:54 EDT, you write:
>
> <   1) The Frigidare decal for the air conditioner compressor
>      2) The decal for the back of the air cleaner that talks about the
>  air cleaner element and stuff (This was originally painted white -
>  probably a stencile from the factory).
>   --
>  Dan Williams                            442Much@plutonium.net
>  Marion, IA                                     68 442 Convertible  >>
>
> Jeez, how do I say this....
>
> I am hoping that Mark Cornea has answered and I just have not seen it.
>
> Um, Dan?
>
> I can put you onto a source for these decals.....
>
> But our very own Dr. Decal *might* have these as well, in which case....
>
> I mean, best if communicating with the proprietor hisself, right?
>
> Uh, right?
>
> Mark?
>
> SOM
> &KA

	Yes, I did answer, but sent it right to Dan. Thanks
       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
          Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 W30 stick ~ Red (of course)

                              <mailto:drdecal442@aol.com>
                              <mailto:mcornea@ford.com>

            Visit <http://members.aol.com/drdecal442/mcr.html>


            OCA# 4903
       	    OPC# 14
       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 11:39:48 -0400
From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: Re: DMR/JM Olds Nats - Who is Going Where?

The Viking wrote:
>
> Topic says it all.  Who is going to the Dick Miller or Mondello Nationals
> on August 16th..
>
> Al Varhus
> Columbus, Ohio
> http://www.infinet.com/~avar
> http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
> Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
>   Mid Ohio Chapter #136
>   Gem City Rockets
>

	I'm going to the Dick Miller Nats
       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
          Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 W30 stick ~ Red (of course)

                              <mailto:drdecal442@aol.com>
                              <mailto:mcornea@ford.com>

            Visit <http://members.aol.com/drdecal442/mcr.html>


            OCA# 4903
       	    OPC# 14
       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 11:37:55 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: TH 400

I'm one of the NOTENOUGHCASH guys, and I was thinking that since this guy
mentioned using another trans compoletely, he may be in the same boat. I'm
all
for saving money for important things, like insurance, tabs, the
occassional
engine rebuild, tranny rebuild, etc. : ) Aren't cars cheap fun? Dorian
__________________

I can certainly sympathize, but nearly 25 years of messing with Oldsmobiles
has shown me time and again that doing it right the first time is always
the cheapest way in the long run.  Unfortunately, cash flow can be a
problem, and we've all had to cut corners (hey, look at what I'm doing with
this 455), but my own experience is that the one corner that you've cut is
the one that leads to a $100 tow or a rod ejected on the freeway.  The
killer is the "temporary fix" that you're still using 5 years later (not
that _I'd_ ever do that...just don't look under the hood of my 70).

Just my .02

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 08:36:49 -0700
From: "John Young" <realtorjohn@sprynet.com>
Subject: 69 OAI

Tried this post several weeks ago with no response, soooo I'll try again..
Does anyone know where I can find the 69 OAI scoops???? I've already been
through the "try the 68s they may be the same" routine (they aren't!) This
is probably the greatest single site for real auto knowledge on the
net!!!!! Thanks in advance for the info.

May not be here for the weekend, going to see if any Olds' are at the Big
Bear show.  realtorjohn@sprynet.com
69 442 W-32

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1411
*********************************
