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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1445


oldsmobile-digest       Monday, August 24 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1445



Events in CA
Re: Hood Pin Stuck
1957 Olds J2 Air Cleaner
Re: 15th annual olds car show and swap details....
Re: Hood Pin Stuck
Re: BUY VISTA CRUISERS - N O W ! ! !
Re: F heads was Re: W-30 parts
Re: BLINKER IS NOT WORKING
Re: I was afraid to get out of bed
how to flush gas tank / trunk floor?
Happy Days
Re: F heads was Re: W-30 parts
Re: BUY VISTA CRUISERS - N O W ! ! !
disk brakes / tranny / looking for 4bbl air cleaner
Re: 1957 Olds J2 Air Cleaner
Re: O4B
tacking out seats
Re: BUY VISTA CRUISERS - N O W ! ! !
Re: Fuel Tank Hoses
Date:	Mon, 24 Aug 1998 11:43:40 -0400
TEST]]
Re: Fuel Tank Hoses
Re: tacking out seats
RE: I was afraid to get out of bed
Parting out '72 Cutlass
RE: I was afraid to get out of bed
Compression from Flat-Tops was  Pistons questions
Re: Fuel Tank Hoses
1999 Olds Alero
RE: Parting out '72 Cutlass
Re: 15th annual olds car show and swap details....
Re: how to flush gas tank / trunk floor?
Re: how to flush gas tank / trunk floor?
Re: disk brakes / tranny / looking for 4bbl air cleaner
Re: how to flush gas tank / trunk floor?
price for new 350
Selling Olds ??  / Taxes
'72 cutlass ignition problems
Quadrajet choice
RE: Selling Olds ?? / Taxes
Re:
Re: Hood Pin Stuck
engine costs
[none]
Which parts Place??
Re:
RE: Which parts Place??
Disc in Rear - another possibility (was:RE: )
trans fluid leak solved and 350 for sale!
72 Gas cap
Re: Which parts Place??
Re: 72 Gas cap
Got a good question for you guys
Re: trans fluid leak solved and 350 for sale!
Re: trans fluid leak solved and 350 for sale!
Re: TH350 convert to TH400 Driveshaft length?
Transmission Chattering
Re: 66 trunk torsion bars
Re: Parting out '72 Cutlass
Re: Parting out '72 Cutlass
Re: how to flush gas tank / trunk floor?
Re: Late H/O or 442 cam specs
Re: trans fluid leak solved and 350 for sale!
Don't re-gap spark plugs??

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 15:14:05 +0300
From: Jukka.Kujala@outokumpu.com
Subject: Events in CA

Hello  everybody,

Please give information of all kind classic car meetings, drag race, swap
meets etc. in Southern California
between 2.-15. Sept.
Thanks in advance, Jukka

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 08:16:37 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Hood Pin Stuck

On my 72 442 Conv't the drivers-side hood pin will not release. I tried to
turn it counter-clockwise and the pin will turn but I can't open my hood
because it will not realease.

Anyone else out there ever had this problem, if so, how do I go about
getting it to open? I don't want to break the thing....
Pettrix@prodigy.net
_____________

Hooo boy!  Have I ever had this problem!  In my case, the small pin pressed
into the shaft of the hood pin (the cross pin that engages with the
brackets on the core support) had worked loose, so that the hood pin would
turn properly but not release.  I was forced to use brute force to bend
this cross pin to finally get the hood open.  Obviously, be careful.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 09:15:22 -0400
From: "Elliott, Lee (AFS-Warren)" <lelliott@afs.bwauto.com>
Subject: 1957 Olds J2 Air Cleaner

Does anyone have any info regarding the two different air cleaner
assemblies used on 1957 Olds with the J2 option? I came across a "Gold
Mine" in a local salvage yard when I found an untouched original J2 set
up. The air cleaner was "oblong" rather than "round". Was there a
mid-year production change in '57?

elliott@bwaafs.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 09:21:51 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: 15th annual olds car show and swap details....

Cnvrt67@aol.com wrote:
>
> coolest car at the show wasnt even in the show...... it was a 66???? tornado
> that had the rear trunk section hacked off.......... then the guy extended 
the
> frame with about 12 feet of framing tube. he then built a platform on this 
and
> basically ended up with a flatbed tornado that he was using to pull a 30 
style
> pickup truck drag car to and from the track. it was very cool looking. pics 
to
> come soon.

If it was white, and the platorm was woodgrain, then I saw it at Norwalk
on the 16th. It's a pretty cool idea! Got some video tape of it.

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
         777777 33333
            77      33
Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
          77        33
         77     33333
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 09:22:16 -0400
From: tgstoner@umich.edu
Subject: Re: Hood Pin Stuck

On Mon, 24 Aug 1998 "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net> wrote:
> On my 72 442 Conv't the drivers-side hood pin will not release. I tried
to
> turn it counter-clockwise and the pin will turn but I can't open my hood
> because it will not realease.
>
> Anyone else out there ever had this problem, if so, how do I go about
> getting it to open? I don't want to break the thing....
*******************
Peter,

I assume that we're talking about a W-25 hood here and if so I had the same
problem on my '72 W-30, except it was the pin on the passenger (right)
side.  In my case at least, the cause was that the little roll pin (or were
the originals a solid pin?) which is pressed through the hood pin had
slipped part way out and was off-center enough that it wouldn't clear the
latch.  Now the hard part.  I had the problem back about 1973, and in the
ensuing 25 years I've forgotten exactly how I got the hood open.  I think
however, that I just pried it up with a "crowbar" shoved in under the hood
next to the pin, shearing the offending off-center pin off.  This probably
isn't something you want to try today though, since replacement parts would
be so hard (and expensive) to obtain if you broke anything other than the
off-center pin.  Those pins, even if the originals were little solid pins,
can be replaced with roll pins which should be available at any hardware
store.  So breaking it isn't really a bad thing.

So anyway, if you're suffering from a pin which has slipped off-center too
I think you're going to have to work from the bottom and try to either
unbolt the latch piece or get that pin worked back on-center enough that it
will clear the latch.  I don't think it's going to be easy and I hope you
don't get frustrated enough to use the prybar method on your 26 year old
hood.  Once the job is done, I can guarantee that you'll check for
off-center pins every time you open the hood though.  I always did.  Good
luck.

Tom Stoner
Oldsmobile Club of America #3943
Ann Arbor, MI
tgstoner@umich.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 06:57:46 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: BUY VISTA CRUISERS - N O W ! ! !

Bob Blanchard wrote:

> there is something to this nostalgia thing.

That is true.  In 1976 I was 15 years old, very close to the ages of those kids
inthat show.  Scary.   Real scary.  :-)

> In the '70's we had "Happy Days" a show about the '50's where the father
> drove
> a '88.

I thought Mr. Cunningham drove a DeSoto?

> Oldsmobile has gotta be  paying someone. :)

They can pay me if they want! :-)

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 10:06:21 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: F heads was Re: W-30 parts

:
>
> << F-heads>>> $1000 - $1500 >>
>
> I thought "F"s were more common (well, than "H" anyway), or is that price
> range for polished, ported, magnafluxed, shot-peened, buffed, groomed and
> waxed?
> (batteries not included)
>
> Just curious.
>

Nope that pull them off a running car plop them on a table and sell them
Make sure when you go see "your" common F's that they aren't E's with the
lower part ground off.  I have come across a lot of these over the years.

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 07:10:18 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: BLINKER IS NOT WORKING

> I found that by squeezing the plastic connector that connects the
> parking light/blinker assembly to the wiring harness the light
> would stay on. So I disconnected the connector and bent the
> male side (I think the one connected to the light assembly)

Yup...

> in the direction that would make it fit tighter on the female
> side that  had a slight bump on it. I know this isn't a glamorous
> solution but it worked for me and it was cheap. good luck.

If you have a really tiny flat-blade screwdriver, you can press it
in down the back side of the metal connector inside the plastic
housing (either male or female halves) and press down a little
retainer tang on the connector that locks it into the housing,
after which it will slide out the back. You can then clean it,
crimp the side jaws on the female connector closed again (gently),
bend the locking tab back out again and snap it back together.
Takes less time than it took me to type this paragraph...

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 10:18:21 EDT
From: <WMACHINES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: I was afraid to get out of bed

In a message dated 98-08-24 07:43:56 EDT, you write:

<< As I mentioned earlier, son Greg crashed the neon on Friday.  He was OK,
same
 can't be said for the car.  On Saturday I was on my way to Chris Smetana's in
 my Olds to go with him to retrieve his Olds from the tranny shop.  I got
about
 halfway there when the Olds starts running out of fuel.  The tank was full,
 but the car started stumbling.  I pulled over on the nice wide shoulder and
 finished my egg McMuffin before I got out to check the car.  When I did look
 under the hood I found a broken fuel pump.  I do mean broken, the flange part
 that bolts to the engine was still where it should be, but the other half
with
 the pump diaphragm was slightly loose.  The @&&#$ Holley mechanical pump
 casting had broken in two where the roll pin goes through for the inner arm
to
 pivot.  I had never seen a broken pump body before.  Walked back to a phone
 about two miles away to call the wife.  Went home, got the trailer, came back
 and loaded the car.  I was able to pump fuel into the carb by moving the pump
 by hand.  Had to do that twice to get it in the trailer.  Yesterday I got out
 the old Holley pump I used to have on the car and made one pump out of the
 parts of the two.  When I replaced the first pump two years ago the top half
 of the housing broke while tightening the outlet fitting.  At that time I
 ended up using my old top half and swapped out the old check valves for the
 new ones.  Now the new bottom has broken and I am using the old bottom as
 well.  These leaves the newer check valves inside the old pump, which is what
 I wanted to do in the first place instead of buying a complete pump.
 Apparently the newer casting is not up to par with the 14 year old casting.
 The Olds is running and we are back to having two driveable vehicles as of
 this morning.  Oh yes, the lawnmower engine died yesterday!

 Dave (if I had a horse, it would die) Wyatt
 70  4-4-2 >>
Dave, those Holley pumps do break alot.  Six members including myself have had
the same probelm.  It throws oil in the compartment and makes everything
nasty.  My pump broke about 5 years ago.  And the same for the other members
and one just recently from the group.  Now I run the electric fuel pump.  No
more problems.  Just incase, I carry a spare Holley blue electric so that I
wont get stranded.  Just my thoughts on the Holley/Mallory which are the same
pumps.

Later
W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
1972 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 09:17:49 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: how to flush gas tank / trunk floor?

Hi List,

finally my front suspension is done, the engine goes to the shop today
and I am working my way more to the back part of the vehicle... Drum
brakes are like "new" and I will only put in new shocks. (Went for 10
bucks a piece gabriel-shocks... don't blame me). Hope the springs are
still fine, will find that out when I am on the road.

In the back of the baby I also find the rusted trunk floor but the gas tank
looking straight. I want to take the tank out and flush it. Do you just
put in gas and shake or is there any other trick how to cure possible
rust/dirt??? Chemicals? Inside surface treatment?

As for the trunk floor I have not decided which one to get. There is the
cheap one piece for less then $ 100. Anyone have experience putting that
one in? Year one says if you put it in while body on frame (which I
like to keep) you may have to cut it to fit thru the trunk opening.

So long,

George
- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 10:14:53 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Happy Days

>> In the '70's we had "Happy Days" a show about the '50's where the father
drove a '88.
>
>I thought Mr. Cunningham drove a DeSoto?
>

>Please excuse the non-olds content - howard cuningham did drive a desoto -
but "in the 50's the father drove a 88'" is where the
phrase - "not your fathers olsdmobile" might have it's meaning.
Just my thoughts
The General
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 07:28:28 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: F heads was Re: W-30 parts

>>
>> << F-heads>>> $1000 - $1500 >>
>>

$1500 ?!!

If anybody wants to buy a set of F heads for $1500, I have a friend that
will sell them to you today!!



Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 07:29:20 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: BUY VISTA CRUISERS - N O W ! ! !

> Just watched "That 70s Show".  It wasn't great, it wasn't bad,
> but it's about to start a new trend...

I was rolling on the floor over some scenes, but my wife, who
was, um, a little less of a partier in the '70's than I was,
couldn't see what was so funny. My favorite scene was the one
in the basement where I'm absolutely sure that they hadn't been
smoking anything at all, no way, no sir.

Major sense of been-there-done-that; they did a great job of
recreating the era, perfect casting, etc. (In my case, the Vista
Cruiser my friend got from his parents was a blue '72.) And did
you notice at the end how they were able to lie on the hood and
the windshield without anything caving in or cracking? Try that
with today's cars...

If you really want to study the Vista Cruiser from the show, the
current TV Guide's front cover is a fold-out ad for the show:
the entire wagon, shot in profile. You can even read the brand
of tires they used. The car's a little bleached out and rusted
at the edges, about what you'd expect for an eight year old car
from Wisconsin...

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 09:28:26 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: disk brakes / tranny / looking for 4bbl air cleaner

Hi Guys,

me again. Forgot to ask:
In the FAQ there is some talking about proportion valves and new brake
boosters when you convert to disk brakes. I just bolted on the disk
brakes that came with the car when I bought it and they mechanically fit
well. What do I have to take into account except that part. I thought
pretty straight forward, that this setup will work with everything else
staying unmodified to the former drum setup... Please help. Don't want to
end up with bad surprises on the road.

When I was talking about working my way back on the vehicle I sure forgot
the tranny... Had the 350 on it opened this weekend and there is a lot of
ground clutch material in the pan. (The former owner already told me this
tranny is shot.) But you guys already guess right: I have got another
tranny in my "livingroom" which is supposed to be good. Any suggestions
how to "test" it besides looking at the fluid before I put it in??? I
don't want to rebuild straight ahead it if anyhow possible.

Also I haven't found an original 4bbl air cleaner for my car on the
junkyard yet. (So far I only was in yards with the newer cars...).
Anybody selling one? I am swapping from 2bbl to 4bbl so I am not able to
use my old one.

So long,

George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 10:33:56 EDT
From: <CCRR12@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 1957 Olds J2 Air Cleaner

In a message dated 98-08-24 09:17:03 EDT, you write:

<<  I found an untouched original J2 set
 up. The air cleaner was "oblong" rather than "round". Was there a
 mid-year production change in '57?

 elliott@bwaafs.com
  >>
The oblong unit you speak of is probably the original dual oil bath unit. It
would fit over the carbs at an angle with an oil bath on each side. This unit
was eventually replaced with a paper filter unit that was round and
substantially smaller.

This original unit was so huge it hid all the carbs making it an one of the
first things any hot rodder would toss and replace with smaller individual
elements.

Anyway, good find. Keep it all intact. It should bring a good price at an Olds
swap meet, especially if everthing is still there. I am still amazed at the
number of these
setups still floating around. Over the last 20 years I have had several guys
come up to me and say they have a J2 setup stashed away. I'm not sure of their
authenticity, however with this having that ugly air cleaner it must be an
original.

Randy in Okla
57 88 J2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 10:36:57 EDT
From: <R4C442@aol.com>
Subject: Re: O4B

In response to the O4B statements, I think you've covered most of the items.
As a testimonial, I've been running one since 1972 and noticed a quarter mile
reduction of approx  2 tenths right after installation. Mr. Mondello
recommended the O4B as the right street/strip combo manifold some years back.
Joe P. is absolutely correct in saying that the HEI will NOT work with this
manifold...been there, done that. Finally, if you want an excuse to be in the
garage, utilizing my handy-dandy Eastwood manifold polishing kit and drill
cable/mandrel it took me from Nov to March to polish the O4B!
                                                               Ron Forsee
                                                               65 442-Meister

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 10:42:41 EDT
From: <RICH6986@aol.com>
Subject: tacking out seats

i want to switch the seats from my 85 cutlass supreme to my 82 and on the back
seat i looked all around didnt see any bolts around it or in the trunk does
anyone know if its bolted in somehow or is it welded if either of them how
could I take it out	TIA     Rich

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 08:12:50 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: BUY VISTA CRUISERS - N O W ! ! !

Andrew C. Green wrote:

> in the basement where I'm absolutely sure that they hadn't been
> smoking anything at all, no way, no sir.

They were I thought drinking beers.

> you notice at the end how they were able to lie on the hood and
> the windshield without anything caving in or cracking? Try that
> with today's cars...

Ya know.  I thought and said the same thing.

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 09:19:50 -0600
From: Tom Starkey <tstarkey@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Hoses

Thanks for all the help everyone, it'll be nice to have more than 1/2 a
tank of gas.


Tom Starkey
'68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 11:43:40 -0400
From: "Eckart, Douglas A. SFC" <eckartd@emh.gordon.army.mil>
Subject: Date:	Mon, 24 Aug 1998 11:43:40 -0400

Has anyone installed rear disk brakes on their 442/cutlass,  What was you
donor parts, what additional machine work was necessary, are you satisfied
with the conversion?  Thanks, Doug

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 10:56:06 -0400
From: RAY.COSTANZO@firstunion.com
Subject: TEST]]

TO: Softswitch.OAS
CC:
FROM: RAY.COSTANZO@TAOFUN1
SUBJECT:  TEST]]





















































------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 12:06:30 EDT
From: <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Hoses

In a message dated 8/24/98 11:18:10 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
tstarkey@uswest.net writes:

<< Thanks for all the help everyone, it'll be nice to have more than 1/2 a
 tank of gas.
  >>

is it impossible to get more than about 1/2 tank in there because it all runs
out as you drive off from the station?  thats what one of my dads '67 442 does
and i dont think it has the plastic "t" in between the vapor lines.  is it a
special kind of piece, or can you use just a regular one from the hardware
store?
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 12:03:12 EDT
From: <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: tacking out seats

In a message dated 8/24/98 10:44:52 AM Eastern Daylight Time, RICH6986@AOL.COM
writes:

<< i want to switch the seats from my 85 cutlass supreme to my 82 and on the
back
 seat i looked all around didnt see any bolts around it or in the trunk does
 anyone know if its bolted in somehow or is it welded if either of them how
 could I take it out	TIA     Rich
  >>

stick your hands into the crease in the back/bottom of the seat, (where the
seatbelts come from) pull the bottom section of the seat towards the front
seats and at the same time pull upwards.  the seat will kinda "hinge" on the
front.  i try to do one side at a time cuz it can defiately be a pain.once you
get the bottom section out, the rest is easy.  the back section has 2 brackets
on the very bottom corners with big bolts holding them down to the floor.
take out the bolts, then lift straight up on the seat untill it unlatches at
the top, then take it out.  when your putting the seats back in, remember your
seatbelts.  make sure you put them on top of the bottom section before you put
it all the way back down in place again.  hope this will do you some good,
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 09:33:08 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: I was afraid to get out of bed

This is exactly what happened to mine, but at 75mph on I-5 in the
middle of nowhere. Now I stick with AC Delco stock mechanical.
Haven't had trouble since. I guess these castings are just weak
for street use. Look good though.

cf

>  halfway there when the Olds starts running out of fuel.  The
> tank was full,  but the car started stumbling.  I pulled over on the
nice
> wide shoulder and  finished my egg McMuffin before I got out to check
the car.
> When I did look  under the hood I found a broken fuel pump.  I do mean

> broken, the flange part  that bolts to the engine was still where it
should be, but
> the other half  with  the pump diaphragm was slightly loose.  The
@&&#$ Holley
> mechanical pump  casting had broken in two where the roll pin goes
through
> for the inner arm
> to

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 12:48:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: Edwin R Burger <erb22@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu>
Subject: Parting out '72 Cutlass

Hello all!

Someone at my dad's work is parting out a '72 (not certain, may be '71)
Cutlass.  The car was flipped over, so most of the body is trashed.  The
engine's been removed too.  If anyone wants anything else though, tell me
what you want and I can see if it's got it.  I took a quick look at it,
and here's some quick stuff I noticed:

good grilles
dash is in good shape, non ralley
4 SSII's (15", I think, and onlu 2 good trim rings)
all the little interior parts are there (windows cranks, etc)
seats are all trashed

Please email me privately if you want anything

Ed

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 11:57:37 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: RE: I was afraid to get out of bed

Chris Fair wrote:
>This is exactly what happened to mine, but at 75mph on I-5 in the
>middle of nowhere. Now I stick with AC Delco stock mechanical.
>Haven't had trouble since. I guess these castings are just weak
>for street use. Look good though.

I will be going to an AC pump before long, but I wonder how long the "old"
Holley pump will last this time.  I ran it for 12 years before the check
valves went bad.  It makes me wonder if it is just the newer castings that
have a problem.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 12:58:27 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Compression from Flat-Tops was  Pistons questions

In a message dated 98-08-23 23:54:33 EDT, you write:

<< What type of compression can you expect outta these??  (I don't know
 jack about actual motor parts, yet...  learning for my 87 Foxhunter
 455.) >>

Foxhunter 455?

Is that the cars' name?

Check out the FAQ for the best info on compression.
(((www.442.com))
Under Cylinder Heads, I believe.
There is a good section compiled from the ken of such sages as Joe Padavano et
alii and Chris Witt provides a table of compression ratio versus cylinder head
volume.

(Prior to reading that I NEVER would have guessed that overboring gave GREATER
compression!)

Do you really need such high comp?
What is your intended application?

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 13:04:08 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Hoses

Joe Padavano trancended;

<< Nope.  These two lines are both vent lines and simply run up into the rear
 axle cavity in the floor pan.  If one was broken at the tank, that would
 definitely cause your leak.  Only A-body cars with the 400 or 455 cu in
 engines used the fuel return line in 1968, so I suspect your Cutlass did
 not use it.  If the car is equipped with fuel return, there will be an
 additional line coming out of the sending unit, smaller in diameter than
 the main feed line. >>

Hmmmm.
Dint know that, but tend to agree most likely.
So same tank fittings for return and non return?
Odd there being two vents.

BUT!!

Should'nt these be at the top of the tank?
Or so?
My tank will not leak unless absolutely full.
Or parked on right side of a road with a high crown.

This fella's (sorry, Karl was born w/o a memory) tank leaks at 1/2 full!!

Mebbe it is the fuel guage sender's housing that has gone bad....
(((Yah, Right! Like Karl knows what one looks like.....)))

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 10:05:24 PDT
From: "flynt myrick" <f_myrick@hotmail.com>
Subject: 1999 Olds Alero

List members,
 I saw my first Olds Alero yesterday at the local Oldsmobile dealer.  It
is a fine looking car but I could not find the word Oldsmobile on the
car.  Are they,GM, ashamed to put Oldsmobile on their newest car?

Flynt Myrick
f_myrick@hotmail.com
http://www.hotmail.com


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 12:10:17 -0500
From: "Kijowski, Stan" <SKIJOWSKI@midland.com>
Subject: RE: Parting out '72 Cutlass

Give me a call. I need an engine compartment wiring loom. 816-801-2300
daytime/work no.

> ----------
> From: 	Edwin R Burger[SMTP:erb22@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Monday, August 24, 1998 11:48 AM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Parting out '72 Cutlass
>
> Hello all!
>
> Someone at my dad's work is parting out a '72 (not certain, may be '71)
> Cutlass.  The car was flipped over, so most of the body is trashed.  The
> engine's been removed too.  If anyone wants anything else though, tell me
> what you want and I can see if it's got it.  I took a quick look at it,
> and here's some quick stuff I noticed:
>
> good grilles
> dash is in good shape, non ralley
> 4 SSII's (15", I think, and onlu 2 good trim rings)
> all the little interior parts are there (windows cranks, etc)
> seats are all trashed
>
> Please email me privately if you want anything
>
> Ed
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 13:18:53 EDT
From: <Cnvrt67@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 15th annual olds car show and swap details....

thats the one

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 11:21:44 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: how to flush gas tank / trunk floor?

As far as old-gas tanks go, they will almost always have rust and all
kinds of good stuff in them.  Muriatic acid is the best , cheapest route
to go to get the gunk out.  I've seen and done lots of these, and it
seems to work good (Local car-wash helps too).  As far as what to rinse
them out with: Water..

And they're easy to dry out after, just reverse the vacuum cleaner and
blow some air into them for a couple of hours, and they're good as new
(A blow-dryer into the fill spout will also dry them out..)

As far as painting goes, I plan to try out painting the tank inside and
out with epoxy primer when I take it out of my 71 Cutlass, but I've
never tried that before..

Eric Aksomitis
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/

George wrote:
>
> Hi List,
>
> In the back of the baby I also find the rusted trunk floor but the gas tank
> looking straight. I want to take the tank out and flush it. Do you just
> put in gas and shake or is there any other trick how to cure possible
> rust/dirt??? Chemicals? Inside surface treatment?
>
> As for the trunk floor I have not decided which one to get. There is the
> cheap one piece for less then $ 100. Anyone have experience putting that
> one in? Year one says if you put it in while body on frame (which I
> like to keep) you may have to cut it to fit thru the trunk opening.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 13:35:12 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: how to flush gas tank / trunk floor?

In a message dated 98-08-24 10:24:31 EDT, you write:

<< In the back of the baby I also find the rusted trunk floor but the gas tank
 looking straight. I want to take the tank out and flush it. Do you just
 put in gas and shake or is there any other trick how to cure possible
 rust/dirt??? Chemicals? Inside surface treatment? >>

     George, I would just put some gas in and shake, but look inside as best
you can to see if it is rusty. They are all galvanized or plated (which?) on
the inside, and on my '67 Non-Olds, there was NO rust inside. The '86 Cutlass
had no rust in the tank either, even though someone decided to off-road with
the car, and dent the tank pretty nicely. There may be something a little more
harsh with which to clean the sludge out of a tank, but all I can think of
would be paint thinner, and laquer thinner, but I don't know if laquer might
be too harsh for the inside of the tank.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 13:39:13 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: disk brakes / tranny / looking for 4bbl air cleaner

In a message dated 98-08-24 10:35:06 EDT, you write:

<< Had the 350 on it opened this weekend and there is a lot of
 ground clutch material in the pan. (The former owner already told me this
 tranny is shot.)  >>

     The clutch material is common. It doesn't mean the trans. is shot. If it
slips, it's shot : ) The clutch deposits are nothing to be worried about, so
long as it doesn't slip, and it's not a 1/4 inch thick in the bottom of the
pan. I can't think of anyway to bench test a trans. that is pratical for at-
home mechanics. Metal flakes in the pan ARE bad though..usually means clutches
are worn through and the metal under the clutches is what is engaging.
Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 13:56:11 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: how to flush gas tank / trunk floor?

In a message dated 98-08-24 10:24:31 EDT, you write:

<< gabriel-shocks... don't blame me). Hope the springs are still fine, will
find that out when I am on the road. >>

If the vehicle sits level (provided four tires of equal size and level
surface), odds are that springs are OK.
My car has springs (4) with some life left but 4 shocks that have "shuffled
off this mortal coil" - it amazing the ways it can bounce on some uneven
surfaces, especially with a good cross-wind.

<< In the back of the baby I also find the rusted trunk floor but the gas tank
looking straight. I want to take the tank out and flush it. Do you just put in
gas and shake or is there any other trick how to cure possible rust/dirt???
Chemicals? Inside surface treatment? >>

First, there are reproductions of your tank available.
((but not mine..Bloody repro'ers have no interest in full size cars!!))

Unless you were planning on removing all combustible liquids and vapors for
welding purposes, I would think that any chenical flush would be too much
effort for too little gain.
While I would agree that getting years of dislodged rust and debris is a good
thing, there is a labor-intensive way to gain better access to the tank.

*the following is hearsay of procedures I am too lazy to attempt*
(consult your chassis manual)

Your gas tank's (either the source of the fuel hosed or gas guage sender, if
both are not one unit) appendages are based in a circular "cover" which
tightens onto the surface of the tank, and is likely rusted on but good right
now.

As you are resto-ing anyway, find out first if you can get (or fabricate) the
proper gasket for this part (and also replace the part in the worst scenario).
With this (manifold?) off, you will have the best direct acces to the tank
innards that you ever will. Though it will still be narrow.

But please, wait for anyone who knows better t dispel this hallucination
before you actually rush out and attempt anything like this.

Guys?

<< As for the trunk floor I have not decided which one to get. There is the
cheap one piece for less then $ 100. Anyone have experience putting that one
in? Year one says if you put it in while body on frame (which I like to keep)
you may have to cut it to fit thru the trunk opening. >>

Someone who sold these (Karl forgets more than he ever knew!) or summat was on
the list about a year(?) or so ago and recommended the seven peice kit (was it
seven?). Dr. Barry, I recall was keen on the subject at that time. (Karl
refrains from mentioning that his trunk floor is OK, it is the junctions with
the rear quarters that are nightmares!)

<< George -------------- >>

Good Luck George!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 14:11:41 EDT
From: <RICH6986@aol.com>
Subject: price for new 350

does anyone know a reliable place to go to get a new olds 350 or 350 rocket
TIA   Rich
81 cutlass supreme
82 cutlass supreme
85 cutlass supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 13:14:28 -0500
From: "Reed, Steve" <sreed@cp.varco.com>
Subject: Selling Olds ??  / Taxes

> Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 21:41:56 EDT
> From: <DKlauber@aol.com>
> Subject: Selling Olds ??

> I am buying an Olds, but the seller recently became very concerned
about the
> taxes he will have to pay when he sells it.  Have you heard of this
before?  I
> might have to pay sales tax, but I think the seller will not.  It is a
> restoration, so he has lots of money in the car, but gradual spending.
I am
> giving him a lot more than he bought the car for, but I don't know how
much he
> "really" has in it after all the restoration costs.  I doubt he would
have any
> capital gain though.  Could he deduct his labor as a restoration cost?
> Neither of us are dealers.  Thanks in advance David

David,
	Only the buyer has to pay taxes on the car, not the seller.
When I've bough a car used I ask the owner if he's willing to write a
receipt stating that I bought the car for less than what I actually did.
IE.  I bought a 74 Blazer for $1200, and got a receipt for $500.  In NY
you only had to pay this when you went to register the vehicle.  I don't
know how this works in other states.

- -Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 20:12:28 +0200
From: "F.J.R. de Neys" <ron.deneys@wxs.nl>
Subject: '72 cutlass ignition problems

Howdy,

I ran into some problems after changing some ignition parts on my 72
cutlass supreme.
I can't get a hold on the adjustment data (timing, contact angle etc.)
Is there anyone out there who van help me ??

Ron de Neys

(I hope everything I wrote makes any sense, 'cause I'm dutch and
technical english is a bit of a problem without a proper dictionary.
If it doesn't tell me and ask me if I mean what you think I mean.)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 14:11:46 -0500
From: Brett Chaveriat <brett@mcs.com>
Subject: Quadrajet choice

Well, you folks convinced me a couple of weeks ago to skip
the Holley for my 72 Cutlass with 455 and OAI.  Now I want to find
a good Q-jet for rebuild.  My current one is a basket case.  I heard
that the mid 70s big block BOP cars had higher cfm carbs.  The
boneyards I haunt have pulled all carbs from the cars and mark them
poorly if at all as far as where they came from.

	First, any factual info on the validity of the better flowing
carbs?  Second, can anybody point me in the right direction to
collect part numbers for good candidates, or better yet, just give
me the numbers?  I can then hunt through the carbs and find one.
The FAQ has some comments confirming the larger sizes, but does not
give me numbers.  If somebody has resources to investigate this,
let me know, and we can go offline to figure out what I can use to
do this.


- --

Brett Chaveriat

mailto:brett@mcs.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 15:17:07 -0500
From: IMCEAEX-_O=MCCO_OU=MORGAN_CN=RECIPIENTS_CN=M947AIM@morganco.com
Subject: RE: Selling Olds ?? / Taxes

Not to get off the original question, but when a phony bill of sale
is provided by the nice seller, be sure to leave the date off if
you don't plan on putting it on the road right away. At least in my
state, you can be back charged when you finally do go to the Registry!
This happened to me in Mass, boy was I pissed!

Jeff Cote
72 Supreme H/T
70 Supreme CONV
69 S CONV

> ----------
> From: 	Reed, Steve[SMTP:sreed@cp.varco.com]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Monday, August 24, 1998 1:14 PM
> To: 	'Olds'
> Subject: 	Selling Olds ??  / Taxes
>
> > Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 21:41:56 EDT
> > From: <DKlauber@aol.com>
> > Subject: Selling Olds ??
>
> > I am buying an Olds, but the seller recently became very concerned
> about the
> > taxes he will have to pay when he sells it.  Have you heard of this
> before?  I
	<snip>

> David,
> 	Only the buyer has to pay taxes on the car, not the seller.
> When I've bough a car used I ask the owner if he's willing to write a
> receipt stating that I bought the car for less than what I actually did.
> IE.  I bought a 74 Blazer for $1200, and got a receipt for $500.  In NY
> you only had to pay this when you went to register the vehicle.  I don't
> know how this works in other states.
>
> -Steve Reed
> '70 4-4-2 Ragtop
> Austin, TX
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 02:44:07 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:

If your talking about 68-72 Olds' then I heard that IT WAS A WASTE if your
putting on rear discs. If you have front disk  brakes and properly
operating rear drums, the car should brake FINE. It would be a waste of
TIME & MONEY to put rear disks on the car. THe master cylinder would have
to changed and numerous other things....Save your money and invest it
otherwise into the car...I heard people who put on rear disks and the car
brakes the same(seomtimes worse)....Leave it stock..If it last 20plus years
it will last 4ever......
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Eckart, Douglas A. SFC <eckartd@emh.gordon.army.mil>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:
> Date: Monday, August 24, 1998 10:43 AM
>
> Has anyone installed rear disk brakes on their 442/cutlass,  What was you
> donor parts, what additional machine work was necessary, are you
satisfied
> with the conversion?  Thanks, Doug

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 02:40:07 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Hood Pin Stuck

Thanks for the info. I will give it a try. I believe it has the same
problem your hood had. The pin went off-center and won't release....
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: tgstoner@umich.edu
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Hood Pin Stuck
> Date: Monday, August 24, 1998 8:22 AM
>
> On Mon, 24 Aug 1998 "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net> wrote:
> > On my 72 442 Conv't the drivers-side hood pin will not release. I tried
> to
> > turn it counter-clockwise and the pin will turn but I can't open my
hood
> > because it will not realease.
> >
> > Anyone else out there ever had this problem, if so, how do I go about
> > getting it to open? I don't want to break the thing....
> *******************
> Peter,
>
> I assume that we're talking about a W-25 hood here and if so I had the
same
> problem on my '72 W-30, except it was the pin on the passenger (right)
> side.  In my case at least, the cause was that the little roll pin (or
were
> the originals a solid pin?) which is pressed through the hood pin had
> slipped part way out and was off-center enough that it wouldn't clear the
> latch.  Now the hard part.  I had the problem back about 1973, and in the
> ensuing 25 years I've forgotten exactly how I got the hood open.  I think
> however, that I just pried it up with a "crowbar" shoved in under the
hood
> next to the pin, shearing the offending off-center pin off.  This
probably
> isn't something you want to try today though, since replacement parts
would
> be so hard (and expensive) to obtain if you broke anything other than the
> off-center pin.  Those pins, even if the originals were little solid
pins,
> can be replaced with roll pins which should be available at any hardware
> store.  So breaking it isn't really a bad thing.
>
> So anyway, if you're suffering from a pin which has slipped off-center
too
> I think you're going to have to work from the bottom and try to either
> unbolt the latch piece or get that pin worked back on-center enough that
it
> will clear the latch.  I don't think it's going to be easy and I hope you
> don't get frustrated enough to use the prybar method on your 26 year old
> hood.  Once the job is done, I can guarantee that you'll check for
> off-center pins every time you open the hood though.  I always did.  Good
> luck.
>
> Tom Stoner
> Oldsmobile Club of America #3943
> Ann Arbor, MI
> tgstoner@umich.edu
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 14:48:18 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: engine costs

Hi Guys,

just brought my engine to the shop. Will get new cast pistons, crome
moly rings, brass freeze plugs, cam & crank bearings (cam
bearings installed), crank turned & polished, block dipped, bored and
honed, timing gears and chain, engine gaskets, and balancing...
sums up to 900 bucks all included.

The guy doing the job is supposed to work very precise (doing a lot of
chebby race engines) and is a friend of friends... do I get a good deal with
that price?  Assembling the stuff will be to myself except for the cam
bearings as already mentioned.

feedback please! I want to know if this is a good deal or if they just
pretend! What did you guys pay for a comparable job?

George
- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 14:58:29 -0500
From: "Reed, Steve" <sreed@cp.varco.com>
Subject: [none]

> Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 22:33:42 -0400
> From: Bill & Beth <dickinson@skow.net>
> Subject: 4 Speed

> Hey list,
> Is there anyone out there who has the hardware to change my auto 70
> cutlass over to a 4 speed . I will need everything except the
> transmission.
> Does anyone have any tips and or advice on this job is it even worth
the
> hassle. Keep in mind I am not worried about keeping it original.
> Thanks!
> Bill Dickinson
> dickinson@skow.net

Bill,
	Keep in mind the biggest hurdle you will have to deal with is
having the automatic crankshaft machined to accept a 4 speed's pilot
shaft.  I found this out myself.

- -Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 03:05:43 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Which parts Place??

I am looking to restore my interior in my 72 442. I am curious in which
company is better. I have Year One, Fusicks and Brothers catalogs and am
undecided as to which is the better QUALITY and PRICE. Anyone out there
have had any GOOD or BAD experience with those companies. If there are
other companies LET ME KNOW, as I wish to do a CORRECT and QUALITY
restoration on the car.....
Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 15:09:38 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re:

>Keep in mind the biggest hurdle you will have to deal with is
>having the automatic crankshaft machined to accept a 4 speed's pilot
>shaft.

Not a problem anymore.  Supercars Unltd. sells a special bearing that fits
where the end of the converter would normaly set.  You then eliminate a small
amount off the end of the tranny shaft.  I have seen a bearing like this in
Springfield this year and it looks like the hot set up.  This is definitely a
"at home with regular tools" conversion.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 15:13:51 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: Which parts Place??

>
>I am looking to restore my interior in my 72 442. I am curious in which
>company is better. I have Year One, Fusicks and Brothers catalogs and am
>undecided as to which is the better QUALITY and PRICE. Anyone out there
>have had any GOOD or BAD experience with those companies. If there are
>other companies LET ME KNOW, as I wish to do a CORRECT and QUALITY
>restoration on the car.....

Me too (but the interior in question for me is a 69) And Brothers is not
on my list of places.  While  SupercarsUnlimited is.  I also understand
there are only a couple places that make the seat covers and everyone
else sells them, is this true?

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31 now safely at home
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 14:26:05 -0600
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: Disc in Rear - another possibility (was:RE: )

My little brother brought home an 80's Lincoln Towncar that has a ford 9"
disc brake rear end in it.  I got to thinking, if a guy was desperate enough
and had the time & energy, he could pull that rear end, cut off the mounting
brackets, then cut the mounting brackets off a GM A-body rearend and weld
them on that rear end and bolt it straight up.  That sounds easier than
cutting and grinding and bending and cursing to get disc brakes onto your GM
axle.  Probably cheaper, too, if you did all the cutting and welding your
self.  The only problem with that would be originality.  But since no
Cutlass/442 of that era came with disc brakes anyway, originality wouldn't
be an issue, would it?  Before you all start flaming me, let me just point
out that I didn't take *any* measurements to even see if it would be
feasible... I was just tossing the idea around in my head.

Anyone have any other thoughts on this?

> If your talking about 68-72 Olds' then I heard that IT WAS A WASTE if your
> putting on rear discs. If you have front disk  brakes and properly
> operating rear drums, the car should brake FINE. It would be a waste of
> TIME & MONEY to put rear disks on the car. THe master cylinder would have
> to changed and numerous other things....Save your money and invest it
> otherwise into the car...I heard people who put on rear disks and the car
> brakes the same(seomtimes worse)....Leave it stock..If it last
> 20plus years
> it will last 4ever......

I have to agree here.  I've done a complete overhaul on my brakes (disc up
front, drums in the rear) and let me tell you... my car stops BETTER and
FASTER than most new cars in any given situation.  There is *nothing* wrong
with the original braking system in a '68 - '72 car (with front disks,
anyway).  I think rear disks are a waste of time and money.  That's just my
p.o., though.

- -Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 16:34:45 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: trans fluid leak solved and 350 for sale!

Thanks to all those who offered advice on my trans lfuid leak. Turned out to
be a worn seal that had to be replaced. While I was there, I saw an engine
uder wraps, asked what it was, and was told it was a 455 with racing cam, new
pistons timing chain, etc., that would put out about 650 hp. (That is what he
said). Told me it would fit right into my 75 Delta 88 w/ duals. Questions:

1) said he would sell it to me for his cost. $1800. Is that the right price?
2) Could I sell the 350 I currently have to help defray the cost.
3) My gut tells me I should jump all over this. Should I?

Please  give me your experience on this one.
TIA
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 15:42:04 -0500
From: Rick Kromeich <rickk@ecg.csg.mot.com>
Subject: 72 Gas cap

Has anyone run into a problem passing emission testing due to a bad gas
cap?  Well I did!  Apparently this is a new test for Illinois.  My 72
Cutlass passed emissions, but my gas cap was diagnosed as having a bad
seal.  Does anyone know where I can purchase one that will pass.  I
haven't dug through any catalogs yet,
just curious if anyone has run into anything similiar or can point me in
the right direction.

- --
Rick

72 Cutlass Convert

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 13:38:30 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Which parts Place??

the company in question is PUI all they do is make repro upholstery
and as far as I know they are the only place so this being said try the
cheapest place...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Smetana, Christopher <csmetana@dowagro.com>
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 24, 1998 1:14 PM
Subject: RE: Which parts Place??


>>
>>I am looking to restore my interior in my 72 442. I am curious in which
>>company is better. I have Year One, Fusicks and Brothers catalogs and am
>>undecided as to which is the better QUALITY and PRICE. Anyone out there
>>have had any GOOD or BAD experience with those companies. If there are
>>other companies LET ME KNOW, as I wish to do a CORRECT and QUALITY
>>restoration on the car.....
>
>Me too (but the interior in question for me is a 69) And Brothers is not
>on my list of places.  While  SupercarsUnlimited is.  I also understand
>there are only a couple places that make the seat covers and everyone
>else sells them, is this true?
>
>Chris Smetana
>Terre Haute, IN
>work: csmetana@dowagro.com
>home: chris@abcs.com
>
>1969 W-31 now safely at home
>1969 4-4-2 parts car
>plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 15:59:47 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: 72 Gas cap

Try NAPA or any other good parts store.  If you can find a store selling
AC-Delco stuff, they should have one that looks darn near original.
You can even try a GM dealer and save postage.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 13:48:51 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Got a good question for you guys

this pertains to a 78 cutlass that has had a 350 transplanted into it the
rest is essentially the same

driving down the road and the car dies as if the ignition were turned off
then rolls to a stop no wierd sounds or anything like that

then it wont restart it cranks fine gets fuel is not flooded and it has a
good spark the module has been replaced no luck, the pickup coil is also
good this leads me to think that the timing chain may have a problem but
with no strange noises ?  when it cranks it starts to crank slow for a few
revs before it spins free again the cranking compression is 145 on all cyls
any thoughts?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 17:15:23 EDT
From: <WOODY3781@aol.com>
Subject: Re: trans fluid leak solved and 350 for sale!

 I have a 73 Delta and want a 455 myself. It's a great idea but be prepared to
change
tranny if you've got a 350 tranny. In the long run it won't stand up to the
power that the seller claims. Best of luck!

wood

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 17:26:49 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: trans fluid leak solved and 350 for sale!

In a message dated 98-08-24 17:18:32 EDT, you write:

<< I have a 73 Delta and want a 455 myself. It's a great idea but be prepared
to
 change
 tranny if you've got a 350 tranny. In the long run it won't stand up to the
 power that the seller claims. Best of luck!

 >>
Wood,
I have a TH400. He suggests I replace my quadrajet with a holly 700 or 750,
What do you think. Any other problems to look out for?
Thanks
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 17:31:31 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: TH350 convert to TH400 Driveshaft length?

KASOLDS@AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Here is the deal I have a 70 Cutlass that I installed a TH 400 in.  It
> previously had a TH350.  I was told that if I used a TH400 short shaft all I
> would need to do is change the driveshaft yoke.  I did this but I can't seem
> to get the driveshaft in place.  The yoke seems like it may not be sliding 
all
> the way into the tranny.  The drive shaft has a smaller part that comes out 
at
> the rear of the driveshaft.  Is this a 2 piece driveshaft? Is this part
> suposed to slide?  Is my yoke not sliding all the way in?  Or do I need to
> shorten my driveshaft?
>
> Keith


The shaft needs to be shortened.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 17:33:37 EDT
From: <NjOlds@aol.com>
Subject: Transmission Chattering

                I have a transmission probelm ( I think? ) that just started
about 2 weeks ago.  When I'm driving and the trans. shifts to O/D 4th And its
reving at around 2100 RPM's I start hearing this chattering noise but I don't
know what it is.  Am I correct in assuming its the Trans?  And if it is the
Trans., whats wrong with it?  Oh I forgot to mention that I have an ' 87
Cutlass S. 307 ' Y ' with O/D.   Anyone's advice would be greatly appreciated.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 17:47:30 -0700
From: "John" <jpoynter@valunet.com>
Subject: Re: 66 trunk torsion bars

To Toby have 66 f85 4dr that I"m parting out if you still need parts my
email is jpoynter@valunet>com Thanks John

- ----------
> From: Toby Blom <floridarealtor@worldnet.att.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 66 trunk torsion bars
> Date: Friday, July 10, 1998 10:44 PM
>
> HI!
> I need the torsion bars for my trunk lid (66 f85 4dr ht).
> Anybody got a parts car hanging around?
>
> Toby

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 17:48:41 EDT
From: <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Parting out '72 Cutlass

am fm radio...thanks   olds guy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 17:49:38 EDT
From: <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Parting out '72 Cutlass

hay i have an engine compartment harness    jeff   770  723-9345

olds guy ga...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 17:03:12 -0500 (CDT)
From: Jeri <jeri@enteract.com>
Subject: Re: how to flush gas tank / trunk floor?

I think gas tanks are made of steel coated with terne.  This is sort of
like galvanized, but an alloy of tin and lead is used instead of zinc.  If
this coating is gone in spots, I don't know of any way to replace it.

On Mon, 24 Aug 1998 DYeager535@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 98-08-24 10:24:31 EDT, you write:
>
> << In the back of the baby I also find the rusted trunk floor but the gas 
tank
>  looking straight. I want to take the tank out and flush it. Do you just
>  put in gas and shake or is there any other trick how to cure possible
>  rust/dirt??? Chemicals? Inside surface treatment? >>
>
>      George, I would just put some gas in and shake, but look inside as best
> you can to see if it is rusty. They are all galvanized or plated (which?) on
> the inside, and on my '67 Non-Olds, there was NO rust inside.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 17:03:59 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Late H/O or 442 cam specs

Been out of the loop, but what I do know is the 85 442 has .440 intake
and .440 exhaust lift.  Single pattern.

Hope it helps some.

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 18:10:54 EDT
From: <WOODY3781@aol.com>
Subject: Re: trans fluid leak solved and 350 for sale!

  Just make sure you get what you pay for. $1800 is $1800, can he demo the
engine for you to verify. It sure sounds good, sound even better in your car.
Hope it works out.

wood

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 18:28:31 -0400
From: "Angel Castrodad" <angleki@prtc.net>
Subject: Don't re-gap spark plugs??

Hi folks,
	Today I bought a set of Rapid Fire plugs to replace my troublesome 
Split
Fires. Question is: my engine is an 86 307 with 5A heads and the recomended
gap for it is 0.80" but the Rapidfire I bought come gapped to 0.35". The box
says NOT to regap...... Are they nuts???? That's a 0.45" difference!!! Are
they supoussed to work like that or should I regap anyway???

I'm afraid to regap them and mess them up. Can anyone shed some light on
this????

TIA

Angel Castrodad
angleki@prtc.net
'86 442-----> 307 H.O. (5A), TH-350 (not my fault,previous owner), 3.73
rear......Ooooh, T-tops !!!!

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1445
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