Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1446


oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, August 25 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1446



$ 1800 motor opinion...
WOO-HOO!!! Getting a 1970 Cutlass for $300!!!
Re: Don't re-gap spark plugs??
Re:
Re: Which parts Place??
Re: Got a good question for you guys
Re: Got a good question for you guys
Re: trans fluid leak solved and 350 for sale!
TH350 to TH400 Driveshaft Info
Re: 72 Gas cap
Re: price for new 350
OL4B and HEI's (Was Re: O4B)
Fuel Pump Adventures
'71 Cutlass wiring
Re: Disc in Rear - another possibility (was:RE: )
Re: '71 Cutlass wiring
Harmonic Balancer
Re: how to flush gas tank / trunk floor?
Re: Harmonic Balancer
Oil filter block adapter
Re: engine costs
Re: Oil filter block adapter
Re: Hood Pin Stuck
Why?? - Re: 72 Gas cap
'70 SX Back on Road!
H/O history questions
Re: 1999 Olds Alero
Re: engine costs
Re: Harmonic Balancer
Re: Compression from Flat-Tops was  Pistons questions
Re: Which parts Place??
Re: H/O history questions
Re: '71 Cutlass wiring
Re: Anecdotes: Vaccuum Booster for Power Brakes
67 trunklid Q
Re: Anecdotes: Vaccuum Booster for Power Brakes
Parting out a '73 Cutlass Supreme
Re: 1999 Olds Alero
Re: '70 SX Back on Road!
WANTED Driveshaft
top switch for 1972 delta 88 convertible
Re: Got a good question for you guys
Re: Which parts Place??
Mondello meet
Re: Disc in Rear - another possibility (was:RE: )
Re: '71 Cutlass wiring
Re: H/O history questions
Re: engine costs
Re:
Re: 67 trunklid Q
Re: BUY VISTA CRUISERS - N O W ! ! !
Re: Events in CA
centers, bolt on
Re: how to flush gas tank / trunk floor?
UNBOUNCE: ISO '72 Convertible Top Switch
Sparkplug Wires
Re: color for 68 valve covers?
engine swap (was trans fluid leak)
Re: Got a good question for you guys
Re: Spark plug color
Re: Compression from Flat-Tops was  Pistons questi
Re: TH350 to TH400 Driveshaft Info
Re: Fuel Tank Hoses

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 17:29:13 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: $ 1800 motor opinion...

>   Just make sure you get what you pay for. $1800 is $1800, can he demo the
> engine for you to verify. It sure sounds good, sound even better in your car.
> Hope it works out.
>
> wood
>
I would only buy the motor if I could see, hear and feel it perform
before. Making up HP numbers is easy. Also there is always a high risk
with motors you have not done yourself or you don't have exact
documentation on like pictures and receipts.

Imagine the motor does not perform as promised. What are you going to do?
What do you do when it does not have the parts promised in it?

A friend of mine was paid for a big amount of labor on a car with a so
called "500 hp" chebby 350. After taking his payment apart he was really
pissed when he saw those cast pistons and the poor work on it. The guy
who paid him with the motor claimed he paid 1300 bucks for it and he was
pissed too :-)

So if you don't want to be pissed, maybe better spend some more bucks
staight ahead and build your own engine, after all it is more fun and you
will know what you've got!

Good Luck!
George


- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Mon, 24 Aug 1998 WOODY3781@aol.com wrote:

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 18:53:26 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: WOO-HOO!!! Getting a 1970 Cutlass for $300!!!

At or around 7pm EST today, I'll be writing a check for a 1970 Cutlass!
Dark Green, has 350 2bbl/th350. It runs! I leave for college on
Thursday, and the 73's already becoming immaculate, so I've decided to
turn this thing into a heavy street/strip car. Nothing fancy, just
something that's gonna blow people's minds when they see this thing and
laugh, then gape in awe as this thing lays the hugest smokey burnout
they've ever seen and walks a M*stang in the process. (slight
exagerration...)

Give me some tips guys, what should I do to make this thing scream
without getting too involved with machinework and such?:

Pull the back seat
Get Performer RPM manifold
Edelbrock 750 CFM carb
280H .490 lift Comp Cam
3.73 Gear/Posi
Stage 2 TransPak (trans cooler???)

???More Input????:
>
>
>

I won't even rebuild the bottom end, if it blows up, oh well, I can
always bet new stuff from Chris Witt!
- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
         777777 33333
            77      33
Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
          77        33
         77     33333
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 19:09:33 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Don't re-gap spark plugs??

When I installed my Rapidfires, I did not re-gap them...and the engine ran
like trash.  I didn't try to mess with them again, I just threw the AC's
back on.  Based on personal experience, don't put them on at all, but if you
would really like to, I guess I'd try to re-gap them.  Disclaimers here,
though.  Mine ran like trash when I installed them out of the box...doesn't
mean yours will, too.

Good luck.

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Angel Castrodad <angleki@prtc.net>
To: Oldsmobile List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 24, 1998 6:27 PM
Subject: Don't re-gap spark plugs??

>gap for it is 0.80" but the Rapidfire I bought come gapped to 0.35". The
box
>says NOT to regap...... Are they nuts???? That's a 0.45" difference!!! Are
>they supoussed to work like that or should I regap anyway???

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 16:41:35 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re:

At 11:43 AM 8/24/98 -0400, you wrote:
>
> Has anyone installed rear disk brakes on their 442/cutlass,  What was you
> donor parts, what additional machine work was necessary, are you satisfied
> with the conversion?  Thanks, Doug


Just put the money into properly restoring the front disk/rear drum set-up,
it just isn't worth it for rear disks.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 19:48:21 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Which parts Place??

I for one would look first to Supercars Unlimited and Fusicks.  I have had
nothing but success when dealing with those two outfits.  I have had much
and consistent difficulty with Year One's quality.  I have had no dealings
with Brothers, so I cannot speak to them.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 24, 1998 4:08 PM
Subject: Which parts Place??


>I am looking to restore my interior in my 72 442. I am curious in which
>company is better. I have Year One, Fusicks and Brothers catalogs and am
>undecided as to which is the better QUALITY and PRICE. Anyone out there
>have had any GOOD or BAD experience with those companies. If there are
>other companies LET ME KNOW, as I wish to do a CORRECT and QUALITY
>restoration on the car.....
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 16:56:46 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Got a good question for you guys

>then it wont restart it cranks fine gets fuel is not flooded and it has a
>good spark the module has been replaced no luck, the pickup coil is also
>good this leads me to think that the timing chain may have a problem but
>with no strange noises ?  when it cranks it starts to crank slow for a few
>revs before it spins free again the cranking compression is 145 on all cyls
>any thoughts?
>

Do you have power to the distributor? It definatly sounds like an electrical
problem to me.

also, do you have dash lights?
On SOME (not all) Olds I've seen a ign/trans/dashlight 10 amp fuse in the
fuse block.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 20:02:40 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Got a good question for you guys

In a message dated 98-08-24 17:12:00 EDT, you write:

<< then it wont restart it cranks fine gets fuel is not flooded and it has a
 good spark the module has been replaced no luck, the pickup coil is also
 good this leads me to think that the timing chain may have a problem but
 with no strange noises ?  when it cranks it starts to crank slow for a few
 revs before it spins free again the cranking compression is 145 on all cyls
 any thoughts?
  >>

     Kerry, do you have to mess with the distributor (turn it one way or
another) to get it to start back up? I had a 260 that had worn the timing
gears out...would run for a little while, die, and then to get it to restart,
the timing had to be changed quite a bit.   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 20:07:31 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: trans fluid leak solved and 350 for sale!

Bruce;

Being a 75 Delta owner myself I feel the same way you do. I would love
to have an engine like that in mine. It would turn that lead sled into a
rocket sled.
But as they say, "buyer beware". Just make sure you are getting what you
pay for.
Lemme know how it works out.

Mark Hahn
75D88RC

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 17:07:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: TH350 to TH400 Driveshaft Info

     Everyone agrees the shaft needs to be shortened but no one said
HOW MUCH!
     When replacing a short shaft TH350 with a short shaft TH400, the
driveshaft needs to be shortened 3/4". These dimensions come from
comparing a TH400 and a TH350 shaft. It worked for me.....of course
you do have to change the yoke also as was previously mentioned.
     Remember this dimension: 3/4" 3/4" 3/4" 3/4" :)





==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our Oldsmobiles and more at
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 20:11:34 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: 72 Gas cap

Rick;

The BP gas stations here in Cincinnati will give you, free of charge, a
new gas cap in order to pass the emissions test.
Other than that I would think a replacement cap should be fairly easy to
come by.

Mark Hahn
75D88RC

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 17:01:12 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: price for new 350

At 02:11 PM 8/24/98 -0400, you wrote:
>does anyone know a reliable place to go to get a new olds 350 or 350 rocket

I don't think you can get a crate 350 Olds ,
 but most places want 1200-1300 for a rebuilt long block
and 500-600 for a short block.

Shucks Auto chain seems to give the best for cores (they are picky though)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 20:15:06 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: OL4B and HEI's (Was Re: O4B)

Listmembers,

I can vouch for the fact that HEI's will clear an OL4B, at one time I had one
of these on Grace (was an idea for an SCCA venture).  There isn't a lot of
clearance back there, but it will fit.

Also, I own 2 of these, one is clearanced for a spreadbore, one is a
squarebore.  So at one time Edelbrock cared more for Oldsmobiles intake-wise
than they do now (anyone remember those Victor intakes made for the Batten
heads?  Long gone now........).

Gotta go -- Take Care!
Ken Snyder

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 20:33:34 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Fuel Pump Adventures

Hi folks,

After hearing Dave misadventures with a fuel pump, I had to relate my own
stories.  On my '70 C/S SX, I once had the pivot pin on the pump arm move
toward the back of the engine (stopped before it came completely out) and
allowed oil to funnel right out the open hole.  Out the timing chain oiler,
down the arm, and right out the hole, dripped real well!

The other one was with one of those C-word engines (my truck).  On a trip out
of town, I noticed that I wasn't getting mileage like I should have.  Finally,
it died and I knew it wasn't out of gas.  Upon finally getting it to start and
getting it to a gas station, I was able to see the trouble -- there was fuel
squirting out of some vent holes on the side of the pump!  What I was able to
do to get it to limp back to a parts store was use 2 hose clamps and a bit of
electrical tape to cover the holes so it would pump.  That "tool" is now a
part of the truck's tool box, along with the bolt you need to capture the pump
rod during a pump change.  Sure glad Olds engines are more sophisticated than
C-word engines at fuel pumps!

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 20:52:46 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: '71 Cutlass wiring

Hi,

I have a nagging question I sure hope someone can help me with.  I have
a 1971 Cutlass S, 350 CID engine, and TH350 trans.  I'm the guy who
asked a while back if I did the right thing by changing from a 2 bbl to
a 4 bbl.  So, now you also know the car was originally a 2 bbl.  Anyway,
I have this plug hanging down by my bellhousing on the driver's side.
There are two wires leading to this plug.  One is black with an orange
stripe and the other is green with a white stripe.  What does this plug
go to?  The transmission is not original--it was replaced years before I
got the car.  When I originally discovered this "mystery plug" I did a
little checking and assumed it was for the transmission controlled spark
system.  However, there is no place on my current trans to plug it into,
so I also assumed the guy who replaced the tranny must not have
installed the correct year.  Are my assumptions correct?  Enlighten me,
please.  Any details are appreciated.

Thanks much,

Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 21:15:06 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Disc in Rear - another possibility (was:RE: )

OK folks, now you're in my area of experience!  Grace has a 9" F-word rear
axle assembly in a 3-point mount, using stock lower control arms (custom-
boxed!) and weld-on brackets that use stock GM calipers and special rotors.
This exact setup wouldn't work well in a factory floorpan-equipped car, since
the top link winds up near where the front of the rear seat would be.

However, there is a good friend of mine that is equipping these rearends for
totally stock GM cars.  The "Strucks" class at Lakeside and I-70 allow
9-Inchers, but they have to be completely stock-mounted, so Buz welds them up
in a special fixture.  If anyone wants to know more about these, drop me an E-
mail off the list and I'll find out as much as you want to know.

Also, the rearend assemblies mentioned are nearly indestructible and gear
ratios are almost limitless.  Changing ratios is pretty easy, I got to the
point in '92 (when we raced 2 different tracks) that I could change a rear
gear in about 20 minutes solo.

Another place to contact would be Moser Engineering, I have been told that
they have housings made for this swap.  Then you could have disc brakes with
emergency brake capability -- something important on the street.  The bolt
pattern is different, but I'd be willing to bet Moser has that covered, too.

Hope this helps out.  Take Care!

Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 18:14:41 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: '71 Cutlass wiring

  What does this plug
>go to?  The transmission is not original--it was replaced years before I
>got the car.  When I originally discovered this "mystery plug" I did a
>little checking and assumed it was for the transmission controlled spark
>system.  However, there is no place on my current trans to plug it into,
>so I also assumed the guy who replaced the tranny must not have
>installed the correct year.  Are my assumptions correct?  Enlighten me,
>please.  Any details are appreciated.

It probably  was for emissions, there were a couple of years that did that.
Could that car have had a electric kick down TH400 originally?
the wiring colors sound like the ones for the  kick down switch on my
jetaway before
it went in the dumpster.

You TH350 people corrupted me. :)
__
Bob.
'66 Vista Cruiser
(rebuilt, not restored)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 21:21:01 -0400
From: "-DLM-" <dmengel@nb.net>
Subject: Harmonic Balancer

Hi all, I am currently in the middle of an engine swap and have run into a
problem.The 307 in my 86 442 is being replaced by a 455.everthing was going
well until today.I am having problems getting the pulleys lined up
correctly.I want to run the 307 accesories on  the 455.The 455 balancer is
bigger than the 307 balancer and is causing the crank pulley not to line up
with the other pulleys.So would the 307 balancer work on the 455? Would it
dammage the engine to run like this?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 05:53:33 -0700
From: "Kim Hambly" <kimbo@sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: how to flush gas tank / trunk floor?

- ----------
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: how to flush gas tank / trunk floor?
> Date: Monday, August 24, 1998 10:56 AM
To anyone,
I just pulled my gas tank out last saturday. Appears to be in good
condition.Sandblasting the tank first, then i will flush it with water.
I am not sure if this is the best method yet. Will this  help me find
out if there are any leaks? need more info! I did find trunk floor panels
but it comes in 3 pieces @ 150.00 each canadian. Is this to much?


Kimbo's 67 cutlass
Richmond
British Columbia

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 18:27:02 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Harmonic Balancer

At 09:21 PM 8/24/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi all, I am currently in the middle of an engine swap and have run into a
>problem.The 307 in my 86 442 is being replaced by a 455.everthing was going
>well until today.I am having problems getting the pulleys lined up
>correctly.I want to run the 307 accesories on  the 455.The 455 balancer is
>bigger than the 307 balancer and is causing the crank pulley not to line up
>with the other pulleys.So would the 307 balancer work on the 455? Would it
>dammage the engine to run like this?
>
I had this same problem swapping a 403 into my '66 . the 330 didn't have a
vibrational
dampner, just a counter weight and none of the 330 brackets lined up. I
ended up using
a non-AC (5.5") water pump and the AC  (small 3 groove) water pump pulley
then
everything lined up.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 20:24:43 -0500
From: Shang <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Oil filter block adapter

Does anyone know of a source for the aluminum filter adapter that bolts
on the side of the block? Are they the same piece for the 307? I need a
new one for my 350 in the '70 - possibly GM have the 307 pieces still in
stock?

Thanks

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 21:31:54 -0400
From: "Ken" <olds442@en.com>
Subject: Re: engine costs

<snip lots of machine work for $900>

>feedback please! I want to know if this is a good deal or if they just
>pretend! What did you guys pay for a comparable job?
>


  I paid 2400-2800(cant remember exactly) for boring/honing/0 deck block,
balance/blueprint, forged pistons/molly rings, main stud/strap kit, windage
tray, bearings(cam/main/rod),recon'd rods/notched, polished/nit. crank,
crank drilled for manual trans,  resurfaced flywheel.  I did the assembly
myself. I got afew more things done than you, but 900 still sounds like a
great deal.

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 21:45:53 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Oil filter block adapter

> Does anyone know of a source for the aluminum filter adapter that bolts
> on the side of the block? Are they the same piece for the 307? I need a
> new one for my 350 in the '70 - possibly GM have the 307 pieces still in
> stock?

Go to your GM dealer.  They should have this little piece available.  I
was noticing that since the 307 and 455's use different size filters,
the only REAL difference I saw was the actual filter casing size.  I
butted two new filters end to end, and the sealing surface gasket and
hole threads are dead on.  I'll go out on a limb here and say they're
the same piece.  As long as it isn't a Toro.  They are a bit different.
With the needed clearance, I imagine they just used a smaller diameter
filter casing.  I can't discern any physical difference between the
two.  Make sure to get the NON-Toro block gasket for it as well.
They're just a little different also.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 22:22:59 -0400
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Hood Pin Stuck

>On my 72 442 Conv't the drivers-side hood pin will not release. I tried to
>turn it counter-clockwise and the pin will turn but I can't open my hood
>because it will not realease.>


This same thing happened to a guy I know.  He was able to reach the hood pin
by taking out his headlight assembly.  Kinda-of-a-pain-in-the-ass, but it
sure is better than the crowbar method.  8>o

Good luck,

=====================================================
RC Hellebuyck  -  1971 4-4-2 covt.  -  OCA Member #30213
See my car and 44 other Olds' at:
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 21:46:44 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Why?? - Re: 72 Gas cap

In a message dated 98-08-24 17:35:18 EDT, you write:

<<   My 72 Cutlass passed emissions, but my gas cap was diagnosed as having a
bad seal.  Does anyone know where I can purchase one that will pass.  I
haven't dug through any catalogs yet, just curious if anyone has run into
anything similiar or can point me in the right direction. >>

How do they test for this, and why?

Is your gas tank or gas cap vented?

If you passed emissions, can they still trouble you about the cap?

Fortunately, SOM is above such trivial testing....

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 22:50:51 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: '70 SX Back on Road!

After about 20 months of being idle, my pal Steve's '70SX finally got
back on the road yesterday. It started out as a few months of downtime to
detail the engine room, and ended up with a bad case of the mitaswells. :)

I helped a little bit with some of the work (maybe 5%) but pitched in
over the weekend to get it ready for a car show. Brian (the guy who did
95% of the work) and I installed the master cylinder and replated
booster, bled the brakes, installed the rad and A/C system, fan and fan
shroud, all lines and wires, all fluids, and installed the hood in a
marathon session that ended about 2:30AM Sunday morning.

The distributor had been pulled, rebuilt and detailed, then reinstalled.
We figured there might be a hassle getting the thing to start much less
run well, but it was amazing. It cranked for about 10 seconds, caught,
and ran beautifully despite the carb also being off for rebuilding too
before reinstallation. Timing was off spec by only 2 degrees. Only
problems were a loose trans cooler line at the tranny end (I seem to have
a knack for this) and a loose gas line that pumped some fuel onto the
intake (not my fault at least; fortunately caught it before any damage
was done). The hardest part was getting a replacement hood to fit
properly; it had apparently been damaged and repaired at some point in
its history so it's dimensions were not the same as the one that came
off. But we got it to work and even the moldings line up now. :)

Later that same morning after a few hours sleep we rolled it out for a
quick cleaning and took it to our club's annual show. The comments it got
about the engine compartment were unbelieveable. I can't take much credit
for the work - Brian deserves all of that, he did an amazing job - but
without bragging I have never (not even at the Centennial) seen an engine
compartment as nice as this. Everything is done in a factory manner. Every
bolt was removed, wire-wheeled, and clearcoated. Every painted surface was
stripped to bare, primed and repainted. Every item was removed from the
engine compartment and totally refinished as per the factory. Every hose
was replaced and every wire was cleaned. Inner fenders were removed,
cleaned and dressed. Front suspension was also refinished. Steering shaft,
box and linkage got the same treatment. Incredible to look at. Hopefully
I'll get some pics up soon.

I had the chance to drive it a little yesterday and this is one strong
car. It is one of the '70 SXs that was built after the 455-2bbl was
discontinued in the SX so it has the high compression 4-bbl 455, with a
3.23 anti-spin and a TH400 with a shift kit and a dual gate. Wow, lotsa
fun! :)

I want to thank Everett Horton for providing a few parts for this (the
throttle grommet is on there, thanks!) and Jim Chermack provided a
replacement engine harness for it too - over a year ago, which gives you
an idea how long this has been in the works. The parts stores and catalog
places made a bit of coin on this too. :) I even scored a hot air pipe for
the heat shroud that I refinished at about 1:30 AM Sunday morning that was
the last piece to go on. We forgot to buy only one piece -- the little
plastic strap that holds the upper rad hose the the fan shroud. Oh
well -- like the original mandate to Ransom Olds said, almost perfect... ;-)

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 20:54:54 -0500
From: JC Fredenburg <drolds@geocities.com>
Subject: H/O history questions

I have a few questions reguarding the 1968-69 H/O's.....
I know that the 1968 H/O's began life as a Cutlass.
Is the same ture for the 69 H/O's?
What ever came of the 4 1968 4-spd H/O's built?
Where (Demmer Eng. or the Olds plant) were the engines installed in these
cars?

ALSO....I am starting another OLDS site (GASP!) strictly related to the
1964-72 Olds A bodies. If anyone has information, history, stories,
pictures (espically of your restoration while it was/is in progress, or
before and after pictures), restoration tips & tricks, gripes about parts
venders,....basically anything that you would like to contribute to the
site PLEASE LET ME KNOW. I know we all have 442.com but.... I wanna do a
web site too! Please e-mail any contributions at
jfredenburg@midlandcorp.com .....you contributions will be noted in all cases!
Thanks in advance folks!
Josh

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 21:56:48 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: 1999 Olds Alero

flynt myrick wrote:
>
> List members,
>  I saw my first Olds Alero yesterday at the local Oldsmobile dealer.  It
> is a fine looking car but I could not find the word Oldsmobile on the
> car.  Are they,GM, ashamed to put Oldsmobile on their newest car?

I got to drive one today (Rental Car mechanic has fringe benefits).  If
I am not mistaken, the O L D S M O B I L E is on the rear deck lid above
the liscense plate, split into individual letters...  Otherwise, there
is always the Olds Emblem on the hood...  And the Oldsmobile on the
radio, the emblem on the steering wheel....

The one I got to play with was the 2 Dr, Leather interior, 3400 V6, 16
Inch Wheeled version...  Only Comparison car is the sister car, Grand
Am.  Pitting the two cars together there is a difference.

The Grand Am has that late 90's "I'll eat your face look"  Inside and
out, the dash in the Grand Am is a one of a kind, almost like a throw
back to the 60's Mustangs...  VERY nice handling, and power wise!

The Olds has the late 90's "I'm too refined to eat your face, but I can
if I want to moron" look..  Only on the outside...  Otherwise, it bears
no class resemblence inside to the Grand Am...  It's "Plain Jane" Olds
on the inside (Nothing personal, of course).  It seems as though it may
handle a little better, but otherwise, identical riding car to the G.
Am.  The LEATHER (although I hate leather) was nice.  And as for the
replacement for the Achieva, it makes an A W E S O M E replacement!!!  I
hear it may be the Cutlass's suscessor too :(.......  Poor Cutlass..
It's the only one of four muscle cars that kept it's name, one of the
oldest at that...  Either way, it kicks the 97-98 Cutlass now!
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 22:00:30 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: engine costs

In a message dated 98-08-24 15:59:44 EDT, you write:

<< Will get new cast pistons, crome moly rings, brass freeze plugs, cam &
crank bearings (cam bearings installed), crank turned & polished, block
dipped, bored and
 honed, timing gears and chain, engine gaskets, and balancing... sums up to
900 bucks all included. >>

Well, figure $240 for pistons, timing set should be $60 or so, chrome-moly
rings $100+ (but just moly as low as $50), gasket set $30 unless anything
special, cam & crank bearings $70, freeze plugs $11. So you're up to $550 w/o
the machine shop stuff.

For what you should be getting, it does not sound like price gouging to me.

You are not having anything done about the connecting rods?

Like....I dunno.....new ones?

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 22:03:14 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Harmonic Balancer

In a message dated 98-08-24 21:24:29 EDT, you write:

<< So would the 307 balancer work on the 455? Would it dammage the engine to
run like this?  >>

You would probably not make it out of the driveway.

Why do you want the 307 accessories?

Or can't you use 455 brackets for them?

SOM
&ka

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 22:04:40 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: Compression from Flat-Tops was  Pistons questions

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 98-08-23 23:54:33 EDT, you write:
>
> << What type of compression can you expect outta these??  (I don't know
>  jack about actual motor parts, yet...  learning for my 87 Foxhunter
>  455.) >>
>
> Foxhunter 455?
> Is that the cars' name?

Heh, no, actually, that's the goal..  It's being built to hunt down, and
devour 79-93 Ford Fox Bodied 5.Slow Mustangs...  <G> Camaros and
Firebirds are a dinner mint.

> Do you really need such high comp?
> What is your intended application?

Street/Strip.  I would like to push the car into the low 8's.  But
streetability must still be readily availible..  Gas is no real problem
right now, and work's on 15 miles from home, so feasibly, I am aiming to
build street legal hi-po 455.  The only experience I have with the 455
is the guy down at the track leading me in directions I am unsure of..
Not having an excess of actual MOTOR knowledge, I tend to believe his
ideas will work...

Reading heavily now...  FAQ included.
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 21:58:08 -0400
From: "Brian Lorway" <blorway@rust.net>
Subject: Re: Which parts Place??

I've got PUI parts in the '70 and I have ACI waiting for the '71. The
"American Cushion Industries" cushion is built better and is closer to what
the factory used as far as thickness and shape. What I would do is order one
each of the PUI and ACI products and compare. Buying seat back cushions,
bottom cushions, covers and springs is expensive. Make sure your happy with
your choice. I know Year One carries ACI, possibly others do to. Good Luck

Brian

1970 4-4-2 W-30, 4-Speed
1971 4-4-2 W-30, Convertible
1987 GN (WE2)
OCA # 028157
www.wmachines.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: Peter Landowski
Subject: Which parts Place??


>I am looking to restore my interior in my 72 442.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 22:10:42 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: H/O history questions

Only answered to the list since these are of somewhat historical value.

> I have a few questions reguarding the 1968-69 H/O's.....
> I know that the 1968 H/O's began life as a Cutlass.

Well, true, but they were officially 442's.  68's came with Peruvian
Silver (Toro color only, except for the Hurst) with black stripes, white
pinstripe.  Probably THE baddest H/O ever built.

> Is the same ture for the 69 H/O's?

Yes.  All were 4487 (except for 3, or maybe more? convertibles) "442"
cars.  These were Cameo white, with Firefrost Gold stripes, pinstriped
in black.  Probably the flashiest out of the 68/69 years.

> What ever came of the 4 1968 4-spd H/O's built?

New one on me!  According to Jeff Matheny at Demmer, only TWO were
built.  Number 1 was tossed in a ditch, number 2 is still owned by John
Demmer's son.

> Where (Demmer Eng. or the Olds plant) were the engines installed in these
> cars?

Came from the FACTORY as such.  The 69 Assembly manual even "proves"
this.  Besides, the Feds make sure that all of the engines/trannies
carried the car VIN, or at least a piece of it, so Oldsmobile put the
cars mostly together.  The Olds guys LIED to the top brass is all.
That's so they could get around the corporate imposed 400 cube limit
"legally"

Hopefully this clears some things up.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 22:22:25 -0400
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Re: '71 Cutlass wiring

'71 A body wiring, from my chassis manual:

Black with orange stripe- 12V feed to downshift solenoid.  Solenoid provides
its own ground.

Dark green (plugs into green w/double white stripe at engine/dash
connector)- TCS emission switch ground.

Neither one really needed for your setup, but remember they are powered and
can blow fuses if allowed to get skinned/ crushed.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Thomas P. Smith <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 24, 1998 9:01 PM
Subject: '71 Cutlass wiring


>Hi,
>
>I have a nagging question I sure hope someone can help me with.  I have
>a 1971 Cutlass S, 350 CID engine, and TH350 trans.  I'm the guy who
>asked a while back if I did the right thing by changing from a 2 bbl to
>a 4 bbl.  So, now you also know the car was originally a 2 bbl.  Anyway,
>I have this plug hanging down by my bellhousing on the driver's side.
>There are two wires leading to this plug.  One is black with an orange
>stripe and the other is green with a white stripe.  What does this plug
>go to?  The transmission is not original--it was replaced years before I
>got the car.  When I originally discovered this "mystery plug" I did a
>little checking and assumed it was for the transmission controlled spark
>system.  However, there is no place on my current trans to plug it into,
>so I also assumed the guy who replaced the tranny must not have
>installed the correct year.  Are my assumptions correct?  Enlighten me,
>please.  Any details are appreciated.
>
>Thanks much,
>
>Thomas P. Smith
>1971 Cutlass S 350
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 22:52:34 -0400
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Anecdotes: Vaccuum Booster for Power Brakes

>If any of y'all have had your power booster fail, I wanna hear about how
your
>car was behaving before it failed.>


When my booster started to go last summer, it was speratic.  If I stopped 12
times, seven of them were without any booster help at all!  WOW, what an
attention getter!  It acted this way for about a month and then finally
failed all together.  I still drove the car for the rest of the summer, only
I allowed much more stopping distance and used both feet!  8>)

The booster was replated and rebuilt by Steve Gregori.  Top notch job, I
fully recommend him.  He advertises in JWO.

To date, I now have a power brake booster that looks better than new and
makes stopping the car as easy as pushing open a well oiled door.  Another
interesting tidbit....I had a small spark knock problem that didn't seem to
be remedied by ajusting the timing.  After the brake booster was repaired,
it went away.  I believe this was caused by the loss of vacuum through the
booster diaphram.  Huh...go figure.

My story, the end.

=====================================================
RC Hellebuyck  -  1971 4-4-2 covt.  -  OCA Member #30213
See my car and 44 other Olds' at:
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 22:19:55 EDT
From: <Cnvrt67@aol.com>
Subject: 67 trunklid Q

is there any difference between a 67 hardtop trunklid and a convertible
trunklid???? cause the one on my convertible is shot and i have a spare on a
parts car i have. any help is appreciated. thanks.

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible
http://members.aol.com/Cnvrt67/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 22:54:30 -0400
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Anecdotes: Vaccuum Booster for Power Brakes

>If any of y'all have had your power booster fail, I wanna hear about how
your
>car was behaving before it failed.>


When my booster started to go last summer, it was speratic.  If I stopped 12
times, seven of them were without any booster help at all!  WOW, what an
attention getter!  It acted this way for about a month and then finally
failed all together.  I still drove the car for the rest of the summer, only
I allowed much more stopping distance and used both feet!  8>)

The booster was replated and rebuilt by Steve Gregori.  Top notch job, I
fully recommend him.  He advertises in JWO.

To date, I now have a power brake booster that looks better than new and
makes stopping the car as easy as pushing open a well oiled door.  Another
interesting tidbit....I had a small spark knock problem that didn't seem to
be remedied by adjusting the timing.  After the brake booster was repaired,
it went away.  I believe this was caused by the loss of vacuum through the
booster diaphragm.  Huh...go figure.

My story, the end.

=====================================================
RC Hellebuyck  -  1971 4-4-2 covt.  -  OCA Member #30213
See my car and 44 other Olds' at:
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mrhell

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 22:20:13 EDT
From: <DUKEOLDS@aol.com>
Subject: Parting out a '73 Cutlass Supreme

Time for the car to go :(
	Among the good parts are the trunk lid, passenger door, 442 hood 
(needs a
little work), the grill (both pieces), the passenger fender, lower valance
(all three pieces), posi rear end.  Dual exhaust is only a year old from the
headers back.  Most of the interior is in decent shape.  If you need some hard
to find items like switches or trim, now's the time.  The car is north of
Chicago if you wanted to take a look.  I planned on keeping the engine due to
the amount of money I've put into it (about $2000 and it only has about 10,000
miles on it) but if someone made me a good offer, I'd part with it.
	If you need any specific parts, just e-mail me at DUKEOLDS@aol.com 
with '73
in the subject heading.  My pager is 708-881-9102 if you want to talk.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 22:42:16 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: 1999 Olds Alero

Agreed, Jerry.  I really wish that Olds kept the Cutlass name on the actual
car that the Cutlass evolved into--the Intrigue.  The current "Cutlass" is
really the mid-90's Ciera.  The Intrigue is the one who's the sister to the
Grand Prix and Regal...just like in the good 'ole days...

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 24, 1998 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: 1999 Olds Alero


>replacement for the Achieva, it makes an A W E S O M E replacement!!!  I
>hear it may be the Cutlass's suscessor too :(.......  Poor Cutlass..
>It's the only one of four muscle cars that kept it's name, one of the
>oldest at that...  Either way, it kicks the 97-98 Cutlass now!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 22:46:54 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: '70 SX Back on Road!

It's always nice when I big project comes together.  Unfortunately, most of
those with me are computer science projects, but I hope to get into a few
car projects one of these days.

Look forward to seeing the pics.  Congrats on a great job.  I'm sure all the
comments at the show were well deserved.

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 24, 1998 9:51 PM
Subject: '70 SX Back on Road!


>Later that same morning after a few hours sleep we rolled it out for a
>quick cleaning and took it to our club's annual show. The comments it got
>about the engine compartment were unbelieveable. I can't take much credit
>for the work - Brian deserves all of that, he did an amazing job - but
>without bragging I have never (not even at the Centennial) seen an engine
>compartment as nice as this. Everything is done in a factory manner. Every
>bolt was removed, wire-wheeled, and clearcoated. Every painted surface was
>stripped to bare, primed and repainted. Every item was removed from the
>engine compartment and totally refinished as per the factory. Every hose
>was replaced and every wire was cleaned. Inner fenders were removed,
>cleaned and dressed. Front suspension was also refinished. Steering shaft,
>box and linkage got the same treatment. Incredible to look at. Hopefully
>I'll get some pics up soon.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 22:47:52 EDT
From: <KASOLDS@aol.com>
Subject: WANTED Driveshaft

Well the tranny conversion driveshaft question is solved.  So I need a shorter
driveshaft.  I have been advised not to use the rubber dampend driveshaft
because they can easily twist.  So does anyone have a 1 peice driveshaft for
sale for a 70 Cutlass with a TH400?

Keith

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 21:47:23 -0500
From: slevy@firstnethou.com
Subject: top switch for 1972 delta 88 convertible

I am looking for the top switch for my 1972 delta 88 convertible.  If
you know where I might find one, please let me know.  Part # 408462.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 19:38:29 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Got a good question for you guys

tried it didnt work there are dash lights  er rather were it has not
restarted at all and I have been turning wrenches for quite a while
and never ran into this problem it seems like electrical but there is spark
and fuel and relative motion so it should run compression spark and fuel is
all I know of that you need to get an engine to run...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: DYeager535@aol.com <DYeager535@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 24, 1998 5:05 PM
Subject: Re: Got a good question for you guys


>In a message dated 98-08-24 17:12:00 EDT, you write:
>
><< then it wont restart it cranks fine gets fuel is not flooded and it has
a
> good spark the module has been replaced no luck, the pickup coil is also
> good this leads me to think that the timing chain may have a problem but
> with no strange noises ?  when it cranks it starts to crank slow for a few
> revs before it spins free again the cranking compression is 145 on all
cyls
> any thoughts?
>  >>
>
>     Kerry, do you have to mess with the distributor (turn it one way or
>another) to get it to start back up? I had a 260 that had worn the timing
>gears out...would run for a little while, die, and then to get it to
restart,
>the timing had to be changed quite a bit.   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 23:08:16 EDT
From: <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Which parts Place??

anyone got new jwo...


it's really great   got mine today...new publishers did nice job..

olds guy ,.,...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 23:09:39 EDT
From: <RPTW32@aol.com>
Subject: Mondello meet

Hey anyone attend the Mondello meet a couple of weeks ago ?  Haven't seen
anything posted from anyone on that one. How was the track and what kind of
times were the guys turning.

Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 23:21:15 EDT
From: <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Disc in Rear - another possibility (was:RE: )

In a message dated 8/24/98 4:35:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
blaines@strata3d.com writes:

<< I have to agree here.  I've done a complete overhaul on my brakes (disc up
 front, drums in the rear) and let me tell you... my car stops BETTER and
 FASTER than most new cars in any given situation.  There is *nothing* wrong
 with the original braking system in a '68 - '72 car (with front disks,
 anyway).  I think rear disks are a waste of time and money.  That's just my
 p.o., though.
  >>

all that is true, but how many oldsmobiles do you see with rear disk brakes?
i wouldnt mind having them on mine just because nobody else has 'em.
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 23:20:56 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: '71 Cutlass wiring

Thanks for the reply.  You said "downshift solenoid."  Are you telling me this
car originally had a TH 400 tranny?!

If so, is that they way the TH 400's were wired when the TCS was utilized; both
wires leading to a single, two-conductor plug which plugged into a single
location on the transmission?

My interest is really charged now!

Thomas P. Smith

1971 Cutlass S 350

Andersons wrote:

> '71 A body wiring, from my chassis manual:
>
> Black with orange stripe- 12V feed to downshift solenoid.  Solenoid provides
> its own ground.
>
> Dark green (plugs into green w/double white stripe at engine/dash
> connector)- TCS emission switch ground.
>
> Neither one really needed for your setup, but remember they are powered and
> can blow fuses if allowed to get skinned/ crushed.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Thomas P. Smith <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Monday, August 24, 1998 9:01 PM
> Subject: '71 Cutlass wiring
>
> >Hi,
> >
> >I have a nagging question I sure hope someone can help me with.  I have
> >a 1971 Cutlass S, 350 CID engine, and TH350 trans.  I'm the guy who
> >asked a while back if I did the right thing by changing from a 2 bbl to
> >a 4 bbl.  So, now you also know the car was originally a 2 bbl.  Anyway,
> >I have this plug hanging down by my bellhousing on the driver's side.
> >There are two wires leading to this plug.  One is black with an orange
> >stripe and the other is green with a white stripe.  What does this plug
> >go to?  The transmission is not original--it was replaced years before I
> >got the car.  When I originally discovered this "mystery plug" I did a
> >little checking and assumed it was for the transmission controlled spark
> >system.  However, there is no place on my current trans to plug it into,
> >so I also assumed the guy who replaced the tranny must not have
> >installed the correct year.  Are my assumptions correct?  Enlighten me,
> >please.  Any details are appreciated.
> >
> >Thanks much,
> >
> >Thomas P. Smith
> >1971 Cutlass S 350
> >
> >

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 23:49:57 EDT
From: <Jon442@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H/O history questions

In a message dated 8/24/98 9:20:52 PM Central Daylight Time,
drolds@geocities.com writes:

<< I have a few questions reguarding the 1968-69 H/O's.....
 I know that the 1968 H/O's began life as a Cutlass.
 Is the same ture for the 69 H/O's?
 What ever came of the 4 1968 4-spd H/O's built?
 Where (Demmer Eng. or the Olds plant) were the engines installed in these
 cars? >>

The '68s and '69s started life as a 442, not as a Cutlass.

There was only 1 '68 4-speed built, and it is still in the hands of its
original owner, Demmer Engineering. The myth was that Demmer installed the
engines (and this may have started at Oldsmobile to slip the car past the
brass), but in reality they were installed on the assembly line before they
left the plant.

Jon Wessel
H/OCA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 00:10:43 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: engine costs

I want to know if this is a good deal or if they just
pretend! What did you guys pay for a comparable job?

George
____________

George,

$900 for the parts and work you've described is a good deal, but I'd spring
for the extra money for forged pistons instead of cast.  Also, be sure
you're getting quality parts, such as Clevite 77 bearings, FelPro gaskets,
brand name oil pump and timing chain, etc.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 00:02:42 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re:

I heard people who put on rear disks and the car
brakes the same(seomtimes worse)....Leave it stock..If it last 20plus years
it will last 4ever......
Pettrix@prodigy.net
_____________

Well, we've covered this before, and everyone is certainly entitled to an
opinion, but the flathead Ford lasted well over 20 years, yet I doubt many
on this list would want to run one of _those_ in a max horsepower
application.

NOTE:  No dissing of flathead aficianados intended.  I personnaly think
they're cool.  The fact remains that they don't flow air worth a hoot.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 00:27:02 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 67 trunklid Q

is there any difference between a 67 hardtop trunklid and a convertible
trunklid???? cause the one on my convertible is shot and i have a spare on
a
parts car i have. any help is appreciated. thanks.

Brent
_________

Yes, 66-67 hardtop and convertible decklids are the same.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 22:59:47 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: BUY VISTA CRUISERS - N O W ! ! !

My 17 yr old watched this and came downstairs to tell me "they have a Green
Weenie" - our nickname for the old parts wagon that was the same color.
Something tells me she won't volunteer that info though if anyone mentions
this show at school.........

Lisa (who's kids still try and slide out of the VC when no ones looking at
school) Madsen

'66 Toronado, '67 D-88, '72 Cutlass convertible, '72 Vista Cruiser (Cameo
Ivory, none of that green stuff)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 22:56:01 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Events in CA

The next 'big' event for the So Cal Olds Club is Sept. 27 at Woodley Park,
Van Nuys - the annual picnic & show - some swap meet stuff this year as
well.  I'll be there with parts this year:-)




Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible,  '72
Vista Cruiser, '80 GMC

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 21:41:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: jalkara <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: centers, bolt on

as i want to run the 47 with out the skirts for a time, i am in need of 2
bolt on center caps for my ss wheels,  i would also need the attaching
hardware, unless it is just regular nuts and bolts stuff.

TIA

47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 01:50:42 EDT
From: <CCRR12@aol.com>
Subject: Re: how to flush gas tank / trunk floor?

In a message dated 98-08-24 22:05:59 EDT, you write:

<< To anyone,
 I just pulled my gas tank out last saturday. Appears to be in good
 condition.Sandblasting the tank first, then i will flush it with water.
 I am not sure if this is the best method yet. Will this  help me find
 out if there are any leaks?  >>

Do you have an independant radiator shop in your area? They will have the
equipment to flush and test your tank for about $30 American. Cheap insurance
against future problems. That way you also get an expert opinion on the
condition of your tank.

Another "Might as well while you're there".

Randy in Okla
57 88 J2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 06:39:05 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: ISO '72 Convertible Top Switch

Not on the list; respond to slevy@firstnethou.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	slevy@firstnethou.com
Subject: top switch for 1972 delta 88 convertible

I am looking for the top switch for my 1972 delta 88 convertible.  If
you know where I might find one, please let me know.  Part # 408462.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 07:51:09 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Sparkplug Wires

I was thinking about buying some 8.8 mm wires and wanted to get a response
from the people of Oldsmobile fires. Is there a big difference between 8 mm
wires and 8.8 mm wires?

Also has anyone tried the Spitfire wires yet?

Thanks

I love this place
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
17 Wins 11 Losses
======================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 07:23:06 -0600
From: Art Pforr <artp@iem.com>
Subject: Re: color for 68 valve covers?

Mine are Gold!

At 04:56 PM 8/18/98 -0400, you wrote:
>another color question: In what color did the valve covers for the 68 350
>of my cutlass originally come? Thanks!
>
>George
>____________
>
>George,
>
>Everything from the intake to the oil pan should be gold.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>70 W-30
>
>
>
IEM, Inc.
Art Pforr
Customer Service
Hardware Technical Support
Phone 970-221-3005
Fax 970-221-3709
artp@iem.com
http://www.iem.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 09:30:15 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: engine swap (was trans fluid leak)

Well, spoke to a mechanic friend of mine and he suggest in oreder to put a 455
in my Delta, I'm going to need  bigger front springs, new radiator, new carb,
water pump, maybe torque converter and rear. Total cost (including engine)
about $4000.
I love my car, but for 4K I could probably get a 442. (which is probably what
I'm trying to create here) So sadly I think I'll have to pass. If anyone is
interested in the 455, I'd be happy to pass on his name & #.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 06:45:13 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Got a good question for you guys

> Kerry, do you have to mess with the distributor (turn it one way
> or another) to get it to start back up? I had a 260 that had worn
> the timing gears out...would run for a little while, die, and then
> to get it to restart, the timing had to be changed quite a bit.

Ditto... sort of. Dad's '78 Delta w/260 started stumbling but only
at highway speeds. Turned out the little electrical wire that jumps
the gap from the side of the distributor to the breaker plate had
an internal break in the wiring from flexing back and forth as the
vacuum advance moved it. I would definitely check for continuity
through that little bit of wiring as you turn the breaker plate
manually back and forth.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 07:02:46 PDT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Spark plug color

A page of pics are in any Haynes manual.  If you don't have one go to
your local AutoZone or Pep Boys.  They usually have an open copy.

Good luck,

Chris Rivier
'66 Delta 88...The BEAST
'88 Festiva...ZIPPY 165K+@40mpg


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 10:06:51 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Compression from Flat-Tops was  Pistons questi

Running 8's in a streetable car is not truly feasible. Oh, you can make it
street legal. But to actually drive it around town, you would find it
exhilarating at first, then annoying after the initial novelty wore off.
Overheating engine, slipping torque converter, radical 1500 RPM idle, loud
exhaust, NO bottom end power, racing gas ($3.50-$5.50 per gallon), no gas
mileage, and a high revving engine all adds up to a pain in the butt on the
street. It takes a really hot car to get into the 9's much more so the 8's.
Of course, I'm assuming that you're talking about the quarter mile and not
the eighth mile. 8's in the eighth mile are easily achieved. Simply my
observant opinion.

- -----Original Message-----

>
>Street/Strip.  I would like to push the car into the low 8's.  But
>streetability must still be readily availible..  Gas is no real problem
>right now, and work's on 15 miles from home, so feasibly, I am aiming to
>build street legal hi-po 455.  The only experience I have with the 455
>is the guy down at the track leading me in directions I am unsure of..
>Not having an excess of actual MOTOR knowledge, I tend to believe his
>ideas will work...
>
>Reading heavily now...  FAQ included.
>--
>                - Jerry Christopher -
>IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
>       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 07:15:21 PDT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: TH350 to TH400 Driveshaft Info

Don't forget to have the driveshaft rebalanced at your LOCAL DRIVESHAFT
BALANCING SHOP.

Just my $.02,

Chris Rivier
'66 Delta 88...The BEAST
'88 Festiva...ZIPPY 165K+@40mpg


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 08:37:07 -0600
From: Tom Starkey <tstarkey@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Hoses

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:

> BUT!!
>
> Should'nt these be at the top of the tank?
> Or so?
> My tank will not leak unless absolutely full.
> Or parked on right side of a road with a high crown.
>
> This fella's (sorry, Karl was born w/o a memory) tank leaks at 1/2 full!!
>
> Mebbe it is the fuel guage sender's housing that has gone bad....
> (((Yah, Right! Like Karl knows what one looks like.....)))

Karl brings up some good points:

BigJermes asked if the car leaked right from the gas station with more
than half a tank, yes it does!  The interesting point to me is this, the
hoses are located on top of the tank, above the 1/2 full line. Why would
it start to leak before the gas reached those hoses?

Inspecting the tank confirms that the leak is at the broken hose, all of
the dirt is washed away there, but no signs of leaking anywhere else.
The tank has about 2 gallons of gas still in it, so I rotated the tank
on all sides (and upside down) and found no other leaks. I'm wondering
if baffles inside the tank are shielding the gas from the seams.

While I'm at it, I'm going to clean the outside of the tank and spray
some paint on it (hopefully to help preserve it)and add the tar paper on
top. Removed the rear shocks also, I'll replace them to. Any other
suggestions?

Thanks!

Tom Starkey
'68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1446
*********************************
