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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1410


oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, August 6 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1410



Re: timing chain help
Re: 68 Cutlass/4-4-2 spotted
Re: 68 Cutlass/4-4-2 spotted
Re: 68 Cutlass/4-4-2 spotted
455 update
Re: 68 Cutlass/4-4-2 spotted
Looking at a '71 Supreme
455 Saga
Re: timing chain help
Re: 68 Cutlass/4-4-2 spotted
Re: 68 Cutlass/4-4-2 spotted
455
Re: timing chain help
Re: 455
RE: timing chain help
Re: who has the best "kung-fu" ?
Re: 455
VIN decipher
Re: timing chain help
Re: 455
RE: timing chain help
Re: timing chain help
Re: timing chain help
RE: timing chain help
RE: 455
Help! for a 442 in need
harmonic balancer
Re: SX for sale
Steering Wheel
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1409
TH 400
Bad Luck, A little humor
Re: 455 Saga (Good news/bad news)
Re: need help
Bad Luck Revisited
Re: production number question
65 Vista Cruiser, 70 Cutlass convertible FS in CA
Vacuum Diagram (1985 Cutlass Supreme 305cid)
Re: need help
Re: Splifire Lawsuit
Re: harmonic balancer
Re: TH 400
Re: Attn: OCA Members!
Re: timing chain help
re: who has the best "kung-fu" ?
Leaky Trans Cooler Line
UNBOUNCE: '87 442 Door/Trunklid Needed
Looking for Decals
old-motor to turbo-hydromatic converter
Re: Attn: OCA Members!
215 in RX7
'80 350 still shaking
Re: More F28 Olds Queries
Re: 65-67 400-425
Re: Bad luck
Re: Fuel Lines for a 425 1966
Re: Pictures from OCA Nationals
Re: Looking for Decals
Distributor Woes
Re: Package Tray Redux
Re: Comfortron
I no longer fear expansion joints!
Re: Looking at a '71 Supreme
Re: Leaky Trans Cooler Line

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 15:03:08 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: timing chain help

        I'm having to replace the timing chain in my 330 every 25,000 miles
or so.  this seems too soon since it is a true double roller.
_____________

Ouch!  That's too soon for any type of chain, much less a double roller in
a street car.  Just one question:  How do you know it needs to be replaced?
What are the symptoms?  If it's erratic timing, have you considered that
the bearings in the distributor are shot?

=============

I think the brand was erson the company (formerly) owned by supershops. Is
there a better double roller on the market or should I bite the bullet (and
spend a pretty paycheck)  and buy timing gears?  I think they are about
$300 (ouch!). chains are about $65. hmmmm.
Labor + $65 + gaskets - (the fun I have working on my car)  * (however many
years I use the 330)  != $300 (not equal to)
so I guess I need to figure out how many years I will use the 330..  but
wait the gears are universal for all small or big blocks right...  anybody
got a part number?
also what would cause the chain to wear out?  Bearings maybe? I figured
this equation for the wear...
_____________

Don't know where you're getting these prices.  I'm looking at a Northern
Auto Parts catalog (www.naparts.com or 1-800-831-0884) as I write this, and
a Milodon Tru-Roller timing chain set (cam gear, crank gear, and chain) for
an Olds is $66.95, and that's _the_ most expensive roller chain they sell.
You are correct, all 64-up Olds motors (260-455) use the same timing chain
- - except of course the 394.

Do I read that you're replacing the chain but not the gears?  That could be
your problem.  All three should be replaced at one time.

=============

My driving + Rpm's + more of my driving + Austin stop and go traffic +
original bearings = premature chain wear ??????
_____________

What do you mean by original bearings?  The crank/cam bearings?  Yes, I can
visualize a scenario where excessive slop in the thrust bearing could allow
the crank to walk and put a side load on the chain, but I don't find that
very likely, especially if you have an AT.

==============

My car eats  caps and rotors also.  Caps and rotors last about 10,000
miles<< I blamed this on the distributor (HEI from junk yard).

Any body have any input ???
______________

Back to my original question.  How are you determining that the chain is
bad.  If you're going by erratic timing, you just may have a bad
distributor.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 15:05:11 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 68 Cutlass/4-4-2 spotted

... a 68 4-4-2 sports coupe.
_____________

Don't tell Chris Sparks.  He's due to buy another one.  Besides, _somebody_
has to love those post cars...   ;-)

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 12:13:11 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: 68 Cutlass/4-4-2 spotted

Smetana, Christopher wrote:

> 68 4-4-2 sports coupe.  Very nice too.  Burgandy, black bucket int w/
> auto
> ... <snip> now.  Anyway, just thought I'd share this everyone.

You don't find many of these around.  No comment from Joe Padavano! :-)

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 12:14:08 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: 68 Cutlass/4-4-2 spotted

Padavano.Joe@orbital.com wrote:

> ... a 68 4-4-2 sports coupe.
> _____________
>
> Don't tell Chris Sparks.  He's due to buy another one.  Besides, _somebody_
> has to love those post cars...   ;-)

You dog!  You beat me in responding back! :-)

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 15:13:17 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: 455 update

Took the crank into the shop at lunch.  The journal with the spun bearing
was 0.035 undersize :-0  Crank(y) guy in the shop claims he can weld it and
turn the whole thing to 0.020-0.020 for about $100.  I say "Why not" (it
is, after all, an MT nodular crank), so we'll see how it turns out.  At
worst, I can use this one as a core to be offset ground for my stroker
motor (a, uh, shall we say, slightly longer term project).  I _was_
impressed when the guy immediately recognized the crank as an Olds crank
without any other information from me.

Consulted my friend about the block.  He teaches automotive technology at
the local community college and thus has access to its shops.  He's built
several of his own motors there, including doing all the machine work
himself.  He's going to see if we can sneak in some night and do all the
work on the block ourselves, saving a bunch o' cash.  Still don't know if I
have to bore it or not.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 16:21:28 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 68 Cutlass/4-4-2 spotted

Nah, I got just the car for Chris... in the local Auto Trader this week.
A '68 4-4-2 convertible, triple black, *4-speed* (M-22), # match, 1 of
1,518 built according to the ad, picture looks nice. Rumor has it that it
might need a floor repair, though. Asking $11,500 Cdn., that's about $8K
US. Phone 902-755-6112. It's about 2 hours away from me and I haven't
seen it.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 16:26:28 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Looking at a '71 Supreme

Going on Saturday to look at a '71 Supreme. It has 108K miles, owned by
the same person (recently deceased, hence the sale) since '73, never
winter driven. 350, duals, buckets, SSIIs, red with white interior. Had a
vinyl roof that was removed in the past, dunno if the halo trim is with it
or not. Supposedly runs like new. Picture looks very nice. I'll keep you
posted.

Why I'm looking at another car I'll never know...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 12:26:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: 455 Saga

     If I were you Joe this is what I'd do:

- -I would go to Leon's (or where ever) and try to get another 455 block.
- -Have it bored to match your .030 pistons which should clean up with a
little glass beading
- -Use the 22-25 cam (You'll like it, I've got one in my 72 W30)
- -Use the stick crank you have in stock

I think you'll end up $$wise about the same...You will have to buy as
well as bore the block but you save having to get new rod bolts, main
bolts and the one rod resized. Plus you will gain peace of mind. And
even if it's a 'temporary' motor, one built like I just said would be
an easy re-sell!

Plus with your current block you'd always wonder "Is that crack
spreading?" "Was that sleeve put in correctly?"

My .02


==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our Oldsmobiles and more at
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 14:40:44 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: timing chain help

>_____________
>
>Ouch!  That's too soon for any type of chain, much less a double roller in
>a street car.  Just one question:  How do you know it needs to be replaced?
>What are the symptoms?  If it's erratic timing, have you considered that
>the bearings in the distributor are shot?
>



could be.  what are the normal tolerances for the HEI distributor? (up down
side to side)






>Do I read that you're replacing the chain but not the gears?  That could be
>your problem.  All three should be replaced at one time.


nope, all at once.


>
>What do you mean by original bearings?  The crank/cam bearings?  Yes, I can
>visualize a scenario where excessive slop in the thrust bearing could allow
>the crank to walk and put a side load on the chain, but I don't find that
>very likely, especially if you have an AT.



cam bearings




>Back to my original question.  How are you determining that the chain is
>bad.  If you're going by erratic timing, you just may have a bad
>distributor.

high rpm(3000+) eraticism
also when it is at about 1800 or more rpm, if it holds rpm the timing skips
but when you let the rpm's down it drops down fast but with one slight tap
the timing jumps up about 12 desgrees in a split second.
also with initial timing set at about 15 total timing is in the 50's.
When I replaced the water pump (put in a flow cooler pump) i checked out the
slack , about 1/2" or 3/4" side to side.  what is regular.
Was also thinking about balancer.  the rubber in it is questionable.  I
would like to replace it.(the balancer)

what do you think?
TIA
Brett Wilson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 12:48:23 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: 68 Cutlass/4-4-2 spotted

Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> Nah, I got just the car for Chris... in the local Auto Trader this week.
> A '68 4-4-2 convertible, triple black, *4-speed* (M-22), # match, 1 of
> 1,518 built according to the ad, picture looks nice. Rumor has it that it
> might need a floor repair, though. Asking $11,500 Cdn., that's about $8K

You would think for that kind of money the floors would be intact.

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 15:54:16 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 68 Cutlass/4-4-2 spotted

> might need a floor repair, though. Asking $11,500 Cdn., that's about
$8K...

You would think for that kind of money the floors would be intact.

- --
Chris Sparks
______________

Spoken like a true SoCal resident   ;-)

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 16:03:30 -0400
From: Justin <torino@isrv.com>
Subject: 455

I was wondering if you could put 350 rocket heads on to a 455 without
having to modify anything. and would the intake manifold for the 455 still
fit? Also will a turbo 350 trans fit a 455. The transmission is currently
on a 350 rocket.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 16:01:33 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: timing chain help

high rpm(3000+) eraticism
also when it is at about 1800 or more rpm, if it holds rpm the timing skips
but when you let the rpm's down it drops down fast but with one slight tap
the timing jumps up about 12 desgrees in a split second.
also with initial timing set at about 15 total timing is in the 50's.
When I replaced the water pump (put in a flow cooler pump) i checked out
the
slack , about 1/2" or 3/4" side to side.  what is regular.
Was also thinking about balancer.  the rubber in it is questionable.  I
would like to replace it.(the balancer)

what do you think?
TIA
Brett Wilson
__________________

I assume you mean 1/2" to 3/4" play in the plane of the chain.  A little
high, but not fatal.  Has the block ever been line bored?  That might
explain the excessive play.  A better gauge of chain wear, once the chain
is off, is as follows:

Place the chain on a flat, horizontal surface and form it into an oval
shape.
Pick up the two ends of the oval, holding the chain horizontal.
Look for any sag in the chain from the horizontal plane.  There should be
none.

Balancer can certainly be a factor in erratic timing, though I still stand
by the distributor.  There should be negligible play side-to-side or
up-and-down, though most factory Delco distributors have excessive
up-and-down slop from the factory .  Side-to-side is more important in this
case.

Are you sure your timing light is good?

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 16:11:13 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 455

I was wondering if you could put 350 rocket heads on to a 455 without
having to modify anything.
______________

While the heads will physically bolt up, the tiny combustion chambers will
turn it into a 455 diesel.  Of course, the small valve and ports will
stifle breathing.

==============

...and would the intake manifold for the 455 still fit?
______________

Not sure if you could get the bolts in, but at least the runners will be
too big (big block intake ports are significantly larger and will likely
leak against the small block head.  This is the reverse of the usual
problem,where people are trying to put big block heads on a 403 small block
- - doable (keep in mind that Olds build 400 big blocks, so the heads are
actually about right), but the small block intake doesn't match up with the
large ports in the head.  A few small block intakes have enought meat to
allow porting to match, but some won't even seal.

==============

Also will a turbo 350 trans fit a 455. The transmission is currently on a
350 rocket.
______________

Yes, this one's a bolt-in.  Trans to engine bolt patterns are the same, and
your chassis should be pre-drilled to accept the crossmember in the
location required by the shorter TH350.  Note that you will need a new
e-brake center cable because of the relocated crossmember.

The problem, of course, is that even a stock 455 will eventually grenade a
TH350 unless driven with an egg under the gas pedal.  Refer to the recent
200R4/700R4 threads.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 15:17:42 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: timing chain help

>Don't know where you're getting these prices.  I'm looking at a Northern
>Auto Parts catalog (www.naparts.com or 1-800-831-0884) as I write this, and
>a Milodon Tru-Roller timing chain set (cam gear, crank gear, and chain) for
>an Olds is $66.95, and that's _the_ most expensive roller chain they sell.
>You are correct, all 64-up Olds motors (260-455) use the same timing chain
>- except of course the 394.

I've heard that Cloyes True Rollers are very good.

I'll probably be corrected if I'm wrong, but won't the car run awful if
the timing chain is bad, real rough idle (excluding that aggressive cam
profile of course) and possible back firing.  And putting a 'good'
timing light on it and the mark jumps around at idle mean the chain is
bad.  I say 'good' timing light since that was just brought up.  Hmm,
just thinking out loud I guess.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 16:15:55 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: who has the best "kung-fu" ?

> >who can decipher this vin code ?
> >
> >2g3gm51a8h2338893

2= Canada
G= GM
3= Olds
GM= cutlass supreme
51=??  odd body style?  don't know.
A= 6 cyl.
8=check digit
h= 1978? 1988?
2= Quebec
338893= sequential number.

good stumper!

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 16:17:56 EDT
From: <Z28442@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 455

The heads will fit but they will need work
As for the 350 trans itb should bolt up with no problem.

                                             Later Z28442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 16:19:44 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: VIN decipher

OOPS!  H in the VIN was for 1987, not 1988 as stated previously.
sorry.  Dang letters.  Where's my head.

should be a 6 cyl cutlass supreme built in Canada.  Not sure about the
51 body style, probably a sedan???

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 15:27:54 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: timing chain help

Several timing lights have been used.
I may be wrong with the numbers but I am pretty sure i'm not.  I'll check
that later.  Do you know of anyone (besides year-one) who sells a balancer
for my 67 330? I could be reading the markings wrong.
> 12 deg
> 6 deg
>  0 deg
   is this right?
Brett


- -----Original Message-----
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM <Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, August 06, 1998 3:02 PM
Subject: Re: timing chain help


>high rpm(3000+) eraticism
>also when it is at about 1800 or more rpm, if it holds rpm the timing skips
>but when you let the rpm's down it drops down fast but with one slight tap
>the timing jumps up about 12 desgrees in a split second.
>also with initial timing set at about 15 total timing is in the 50's.
>When I replaced the water pump (put in a flow cooler pump) i checked out
>the
>slack , about 1/2" or 3/4" side to side.  what is regular.
>Was also thinking about balancer.  the rubber in it is questionable.  I
>would like to replace it.(the balancer)
>
>what do you think?
>TIA
>Brett Wilson
>__________________
>
>I assume you mean 1/2" to 3/4" play in the plane of the chain.  A little
>high, but not fatal.  Has the block ever been line bored?  That might
>explain the excessive play.  A better gauge of chain wear, once the chain
>is off, is as follows:
>
>Place the chain on a flat, horizontal surface and form it into an oval
>shape.
>Pick up the two ends of the oval, holding the chain horizontal.
>Look for any sag in the chain from the horizontal plane.  There should be
>none.
>
>Balancer can certainly be a factor in erratic timing, though I still stand
>by the distributor.  There should be negligible play side-to-side or
>up-and-down, though most factory Delco distributors have excessive
>up-and-down slop from the factory .  Side-to-side is more important in this
>case.
>
>Are you sure your timing light is good?
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>70 W-30
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 16:27:17 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 455

Also will a turbo 350 trans fit a 455. The transmission is currently on a
350 rocket.
______________

Yes, this one's a bolt-in.

=================
=================

Whoops, I forgot a couple of things (look, I'm over 40).  The TH400 uses an
electic solenoid for kickdown, activated by a switch in the throttle
linkage (location depends on the year and car).  The TH350 uses a
mechanical cable kickdown which is connected to the gas pedal or to the
carb throttle arm, again, depending on the car and year.  The front
driveshaft yoke is smaller for the TH350, and of course the TH350
driveshaft is longer due to the shorter trans.  You'll want to get the
driveshaft for your type of car with a TH350.  Finally, if you have a floor
shift, the bracket that holds the trans end of the shift cable is different
between the two trannies.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 16:29:06 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: RE: timing chain help

I've heard that Cloyes True Rollers are very good.
_______________

True.  Northern sells Cloyes sets for $28-$40, depending on the engine.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 15:33:51 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: timing chain help

I'm sorry that's looking from the d-side standing on the side of the car.
the gauge has no lettering just little > marks there might be 4 instead of
three....
Brett
- -----Original Message-----
From: Brett Wilson <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, August 06, 1998 3:26 PM
Subject: Re: timing chain help


>Several timing lights have been used.
>I may be wrong with the numbers but I am pretty sure i'm not.  I'll check
>that later.  Do you know of anyone (besides year-one) who sells a balancer
>for my 67 330? I could be reading the markings wrong.
>> 12 deg
>> 6 deg
>>  0 deg
>   is this right?
>Brett
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM <Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM>
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: Thursday, August 06, 1998 3:02 PM
>Subject: Re: timing chain help
>
>
>>high rpm(3000+) eraticism
>>also when it is at about 1800 or more rpm, if it holds rpm the timing
skips
>>but when you let the rpm's down it drops down fast but with one slight tap
>>the timing jumps up about 12 desgrees in a split second.
>>also with initial timing set at about 15 total timing is in the 50's.
>>When I replaced the water pump (put in a flow cooler pump) i checked out
>>the
>>slack , about 1/2" or 3/4" side to side.  what is regular.
>>Was also thinking about balancer.  the rubber in it is questionable.  I
>>would like to replace it.(the balancer)
>>
>>what do you think?
>>TIA
>>Brett Wilson
>>__________________
>>
>>I assume you mean 1/2" to 3/4" play in the plane of the chain.  A little
>>high, but not fatal.  Has the block ever been line bored?  That might
>>explain the excessive play.  A better gauge of chain wear, once the chain
>>is off, is as follows:
>>
>>Place the chain on a flat, horizontal surface and form it into an oval
>>shape.
>>Pick up the two ends of the oval, holding the chain horizontal.
>>Look for any sag in the chain from the horizontal plane.  There should be
>>none.
>>
>>Balancer can certainly be a factor in erratic timing, though I still stand
>>by the distributor.  There should be negligible play side-to-side or
>>up-and-down, though most factory Delco distributors have excessive
>>up-and-down slop from the factory .  Side-to-side is more important in
this
>>case.
>>
>>Are you sure your timing light is good?
>>
>>Joe Padavano
>>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>>
>>66 442
>>68 W-30
>>69 H/O
>>70 W-30
>>
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 16:37:07 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: timing chain help

I'm sorry that's looking from the d-side standing on the side of the car.
the gauge has no lettering just little > marks there might be 4 instead of
three....
Brett
___________

I think that's right.  I seem to recall that the marks are 0, 4, 8, and 12
degrees - though 12 might be the far edge of the timing tab.  The 0 mark
should have a larger notch than the rest.  (Dang, you'd think this stuff
would be indelibly  etched in an Oldsmophile's brain, or at least tattooed
on the forearm...)

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 15:45:37 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: timing chain help

>that later.  Do you know of anyone (besides year-one) who sells a balancer
>for my 67 330? I could be reading the markings wrong.

Parts dept at local Olds dealer?  Fusick?  Supercars Unlimited?  Don't
know, but here are my suggestions.

Also, I believe Dick Miller can rebuild balancers. (especially important
to me in case my W-31 balancer is bad)

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 15:53:27 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: 455

>Whoops, I forgot a couple of things (look, I'm over 40).  The TH400 uses an

Joe, shame, shame  ;-)  But I'll let it slip this time since you
provided me with my alt bracket

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 17:36:54 EDT
From: <JJP442@aol.com>
Subject: Help! for a 442 in need

Hello fellow list members, I am in need of a drivers door and trunk lid for my
87 442. If anyone has a line on these parts, at a reasonable price please let
me know privately.
Thanks in advance,
JJP442@aol.com
1983-15th Anniversary Hurst Olds
1987-442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 16:49:59 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: harmonic balancer

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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   Does any one know of a parts source that has new or rebuilt harmonic =
balancers for a 67 330?
Brett


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source that=20
has new or rebuilt harmonic balancers for a 67 330?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Brett</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0057_01BDC15A.3FBCD800--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 18:01:38 EDT
From: <TomW30@aol.com>
Subject: Re: SX for sale

  Car is still advertised in  today's edition of "Bargain News". It's a weekly
newspaper that comes out on Thursdays. As I said before, I no nothing about
this car other than it has been in the paper the last two editions. It may be
a real clunker, but then again it might be a real steal. Good luck to anyone
interested.


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 18:13:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: ttjbmm@webtv.net (todd thomas)
Subject: Steering Wheel

A friend of mine is looking for a steering wheel and the bottom of the
air cleaner assembly for his 64 442. If anyone knows where he can get
these parts please let me know. thanks
Todd Thomas
72w30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 18:19:07 +0000
From: bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1409

Here is another one for the list.  This one is for anyone familiar
with the Comfortron climate control system.  My '73 Delta is equipped
with this system.  Is this system worth fixing or should I replace
the controls with direct heating/cooling controls.  My concern is
with the durability of the sensors.  It seems it might be cheaper to
replace Comfortron with regular controls.  Any thoughts?

Jim Brady

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 18:17:53 EDT
From: <KASOLDS@aol.com>
Subject: TH 400

Will a TH 400 out of a 75 Pontiac Catalina bolt in place of the TH 400 that
came stock in my 1970 442?

Keith

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 17:35:18 -0500
From: "Lou J. Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Bad Luck, A little humor

What not to do!. Good buddy has a 1949 Chevy coupe, OLDS powered.
Customized, 50 OLDS windshield, well you know the rest. Pretty car. Had
steel belted radials and of all things, 1955 Starfire spinner hubcaps.
Wheels and tires stolen twice. He has a Ph.D. in Physics. Bright idea, put
a 45,000 volt neon transformer under the bumper. Next guy, or the same guy
will get a thrill when he touches the car, it rained, voltage jumped from
the rims to the steel belts, four
flat tires. Sell that to the insurance company. Had to share that.
Lou Biggs

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 18:32:15 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: 455 Saga (Good news/bad news)

  Jeez, Joe, I'm surprised thats not my engine.  That was a fairly
comprehensive job done on you.  Most junk ends up here, in my garage.  My
wife and daughter will testify to this, if it becomes neccessary.  "What do
you mean you're getting another one?  You haven't finished the last one".
  I have had good experience with sleeving slow turning (under seven grand)
engines.  You ought , for safety's sake, have that sleeve replaced by a
machine shop in which you repose confidence.  Although less than ideal, the
sleeve is not even close to a death knell.  You probably know that all big
diesel engines are jugged or sleeved. Peter

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 17:39:21 -0600
From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@interaccess.com>
Subject: Re: need help

Paul Hartlieb wrote:
>
> John wrote:
> >
> > Hey gang,
> > Anyone have any suggestions where I might find the (I think) RPO
> > decal, the one under the trunk lid of most G-Bodies. Where would this
> > be located on my '82 G body wagon?
> > Thanks
> > John
>
> I'm thinking this would either be in the spare tire well/lid area
> somewhere, or in the 3rd seat/storage compartment area somewhere.
>

I think Paul gets the prize.  My '86 manual states "G series under the
rear deck lid.  B Series, under the rear load floor."  Which to me would
me the third seat footwell lid.  Had an '82 wagon, but don't really
remember the sticker...but then I wasn't as knowledgable then.. :-)

- --
- ---Matt
Chicago, IL

- --------------------------------------------------------
mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
- --------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 17:49:24 -0500
From: "Lou J. Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Bad Luck Revisited

Next morning the wheels were still there, but---
Lou

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 18:45:58 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: production number question

  It's my understanding that Olds didn't make hearses, but rather chassis
were sold to outfits like Superior, who then put hearse or ambulance bodies
on the rolling stock to order.  In '71 Olds made 403 commercial chassis, but
that doesn't mean that all were converted into hearses.  I don't know how
many chassis were made in '72.  For myself, I had a 1947 Superior bodied
hearse as a daily driver when I was a senior in high school.  The car had
power nothing, and came with a pad of death certificates and a pad of
exhumation orders.  Much fun and good times were associated with that car.
Peter
- -----Original Message-----
From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu>
To: Oldsmobile Mailing List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, August 06, 1998 1:57 PM
Subject: production number question


>Does anyone have any information as to how many 98 hearses were produced
>in 1971 and 1972.
>
>
>Thanks Much,
>
>    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
>   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
>  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
> |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
> |  |  |     work:  GQPR12E@Prodigy.com
> |  |  |
> | / \ |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
> |/   \|
>  \   /      1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
>   \ /          (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
>    |        1980 Rover 3500 SD1
> (215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
>      1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
> (389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 16:00:29 -0800
From: Todd Evans <evans@cts.com>
Subject: 65 Vista Cruiser, 70 Cutlass convertible FS in CA

In today's San Diego Auto Trader.  Contact the phone #'s listed.  I have no
connection with either car, just thought someone might be interested.  Good
luck.



1965 OLDS VISTA CRUISER STATION WAGON-330 V8, auto, PS, PB, P/windows,
runs, drives great, looks good, $2700 or offer, (760)753-1746.  This one
was in last week's Trader, too.  I think it was $3300 or $3500 last time.
Looks pretty good in the picture.


1970 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS SUPREME CONVERTIBLE-350 eng, auto, 161,000 mi, good
driver, lots of fun for $2250, call (619)447-0598 leave message.  This one
was $2500 last week.  Looks okay in the picture.  Appears to have slotted
aluminum wheels on it.  Low $$$, though.



Todd
tevans@infiniteweb.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 16:14:42 -0700
From: Al Moore <bigal@imag.net>
Subject: Vacuum Diagram (1985 Cutlass Supreme 305cid)

I need a copy of the vacuum routing for my 1985 Olds Cutlass Supreme 305
cid, if anyone can send it to me that would be greatly appreciated,
thanks!!

Al
bigal@imag.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 16:06:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: JM <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: need help

- -
> > > Anyone have any suggestions where I might find the (I think) RPO
> > > decal, the one under the trunk lid of most G-Bodies. Where would
this
> > > be located on my '82 G body wagon?

> > I'm thinking this would either be in the spare tire well/lid area
> > somewhere, or in the 3rd seat/storage compartment area somewhere.
> >
>
> I think Paul gets the prize.  My '86 manual states "G series under the
> rear deck lid.  B Series, under the rear load floor."  Which to me
would
> me the third seat footwell lid.  Had an '82 wagon, but don't really
> remember the sticker...

Hi gang,
     Thanks for the input, but it isn't there,that was the first
place(s) I looked,I know it HAS to have one,right?
       John
==
mailto:super442@yahoo.com           ICQ # 15391466
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73--http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof--307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 19:08:00 EDT
From: <BuchD@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Splifire Lawsuit

What as the splitfire lawsuit about?
Thanks,
Deb

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 16:25:14 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer

At 04:49 PM 8/6/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
>  
>    Does any one know of a parts source that has new or rebuilt harmonic
> balancers for a 67 330?
> Brett
>  


Year one sells them for '68-72. I'd call them
(alot of their parts listed for 68-72 fit other years)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 16:30:59 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: TH 400

At 06:17 PM 8/6/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Will a TH 400 out of a 75 Pontiac Catalina bolt in place of the TH 400 that
>came stock in my 1970 442?
>
>Keith
>

If the tailshafts are the same it will.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 19:06:07 -0500
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: Re: Attn: OCA Members!

Brad Nicholson wrote:

	Oldsmobile Club of America
	P.O. Box 80318
	Lansing, MI 48908

	Phone: (517) 663-1811
	Fax: (517) 663-1820

	Attn: OCA Members!
	Due to the recent shakeup that occurred at the '98 Nationals,
I'll fill you in on what I know.
	1.	CEO & JWO Editor Penny Casteele abruptly resigned from
all OCA duties.
	2.	The editor of the NAOC magazine has been recruited to be
the new JWO editor.
3.	The September JWO will most likely be late if not even exists at
all (like the '82 Corvette) There should definitely be an Oct issue to
my knowledge.
<snip>

I faxed a message to OCA today, (Thanks for the new #'s, Brad!) and
Marsha Nicholas sent me a note saying that the September issue of JWO
had already been sent to the printer.  Maybe it won't be fancy, but it
looks like the next issue of Journey with Olds WILL be on time.  Kind of
surprising with the turnover in personnel.

Later,

Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
Columbus, MS          1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html
http://www.442.com/newmantape.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 16:49:05 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: timing chain help

sounds like the centrifugal advance may be sticking try replacing it with
aftermarket kit and using anti-sieze compound the unit may be locking up
...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Brett Wilson <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, August 06, 1998 12:44 PM
Subject: Re: timing chain help


>>_____________
>>
>>Ouch!  That's too soon for any type of chain, much less a double roller in
>>a street car.  Just one question:  How do you know it needs to be
replaced?
>>What are the symptoms?  If it's erratic timing, have you considered that
>>the bearings in the distributor are shot?
>>
>
>
>
>could be.  what are the normal tolerances for the HEI distributor? (up down
>side to side)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>Do I read that you're replacing the chain but not the gears?  That could
be
>>your problem.  All three should be replaced at one time.
>
>
>nope, all at once.
>
>
>>
>>What do you mean by original bearings?  The crank/cam bearings?  Yes, I
can
>>visualize a scenario where excessive slop in the thrust bearing could
allow
>>the crank to walk and put a side load on the chain, but I don't find that
>>very likely, especially if you have an AT.
>
>
>
>cam bearings
>
>
>
>
>>Back to my original question.  How are you determining that the chain is
>>bad.  If you're going by erratic timing, you just may have a bad
>>distributor.
>
>high rpm(3000+) eraticism
>also when it is at about 1800 or more rpm, if it holds rpm the timing skips
>but when you let the rpm's down it drops down fast but with one slight tap
>the timing jumps up about 12 desgrees in a split second.
>also with initial timing set at about 15 total timing is in the 50's.
>When I replaced the water pump (put in a flow cooler pump) i checked out
the
>slack , about 1/2" or 3/4" side to side.  what is regular.
>Was also thinking about balancer.  the rubber in it is questionable.  I
>would like to replace it.(the balancer)
>
>what do you think?
>TIA
>Brett Wilson
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu,  6 Aug 1998 20:05:22, -0500
From: GQPR12E@prodigy.com ( CLAYTON PIERCE)
Subject: re: who has the best "kung-fu" ?

Okay... lessee if I still got it in me...

2g3gm51a8h2338893
2-Canada
G-General Motors
3-Oldsmobile
G-(prob. should be C - inflatable restraint- airbags)
M-vehicle series code
51-body style
A-3.8l V6
8-check digit
H-year 1987
2-assembly plant, Therese, Quebec, Canada
338893-unit number

Unfortunately I don't remember what M or 51 stand for... Cutlass
maybe... Delta 88?

Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
GQPR12E@Prodigy.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 21:08:50 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Leaky Trans Cooler Line

It seems like if I didn't have bad luck with the Delta I wouldn't have
any luck at all. Back at the first of the year I replaced the rad. The
damn new rad leaked from day one. I put up with it for a while but it
wasn't getting any better so I made use of the parts store warranty and
got a replacement. Not such a good deal -- you have to swap it yourself
and you're out the antifreeze you spill, etc. Anyhow, I did the swap tonight.

After starting it up to check for leaks I noticed that trans fluid was
pumping out the lower line at the rad fitting. I retightened it a few
times to no effect. The fluid appears to be coming out the back of the
tubing nut, not from around the threads at the rad. The line itself looked
OK. It's dark, I banged my head on the hood and cut myself, I'm p*ss*d
off, and I don't want to go back out there tonight. But I gotta know: am I
dead in the water? Last time I did this the trans lines were easy, no
leaks, and tonight they seemed to go in equally well. I hope I don't have
to splice a hose in there. Even then, I'd need to find an adapter
somewhere. Arrgh! Geez, nothing is ever simple. :(

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 21:15:28 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '87 442 Door/Trunklid Needed

Bounced because of the "H*LP" word; forwarding.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	<JJP442@aol.com>

Hello fellow list members, I am in need of a drivers door and trunk lid for my
87 442. If anyone has a line on these parts, at a reasonable price please let
me know privately.
Thanks in advance,
JJP442@aol.com
1983-15th Anniversary Hurst Olds
1987-442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 19:25:39 -0500
From: Dan Williams <442much@plutonium.net>
Subject: Looking for Decals

I'm looking for two decals that I don't know where to get.
    1) The Frigidare decal for the air conditioner compressor
    2) The decal for the back of the air cleaner that talks about the
air cleaner element and stuff (This was originally painted white -
probably a stencile from the factory).

- --
Dan Williams                            442Much@plutonium.net
Marion, IA                                     68 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu,  6 Aug 1998 20:20:51, -0500
From: GQPR12E@prodigy.com ( CLAYTON PIERCE)
Subject: old-motor to turbo-hydromatic converter

There were some people who wanted to know where to get the kit to
convert from the old hydromatic tranny to the THM tranny... with the
old 305, 324, 371, 394 series... heres' the info about who sells it:

Tanson Enterprises, Inc, Dept. H
2508 J Street
Sacremento, CA 95816
(916)448-2950
(800)327-8887

They have a catalogue of older Olds parts that you can request.

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
GQPR12E@Prodigy.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 17:12:56 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Attn: OCA Members!

hey I had an 82 vette but I got an 83 I'll sell ya ...only one in existence
- -----Original Message-----
From: Doug Newman <newmand@wcbi.com>
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, August 06, 1998 5:00 PM
Subject: Re: Attn: OCA Members!


>Brad Nicholson wrote:
>
> Oldsmobile Club of America
> P.O. Box 80318
> Lansing, MI 48908
>
> Phone: (517) 663-1811
> Fax: (517) 663-1820
>
> Attn: OCA Members!
> Due to the recent shakeup that occurred at the '98 Nationals,
>I'll fill you in on what I know.
> 1. CEO & JWO Editor Penny Casteele abruptly resigned from
>all OCA duties.
> 2. The editor of the NAOC magazine has been recruited to be
>the new JWO editor.
>3. The September JWO will most likely be late if not even exists at
>all (like the '82 Corvette) There should definitely be an Oct issue to
>my knowledge.
><snip>
>
>I faxed a message to OCA today, (Thanks for the new #'s, Brad!) and
>Marsha Nicholas sent me a note saying that the September issue of JWO
>had already been sent to the printer.  Maybe it won't be fancy, but it
>looks like the next issue of Journey with Olds WILL be on time.  Kind of
>surprising with the turnover in personnel.
>
>Later,
>
>Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
>Columbus, MS          1987 442
>
>http://www.442.com/newman.html
>http://www.442.com/newmantape.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu,  6 Aug 1998 20:44:32, -0500
From: GQPR12E@prodigy.com ( CLAYTON PIERCE)
Subject: 215 in RX7

To the fellow who was interested in putting an Olds 215 in an RX7...
and wanted info on the kit I had heard was produced... I THINK this
is the right address... give them a try:

Car Products
Box 96R
Paragonah, UT 84760
(435)477-8213
(435)477-8214 (fax)

Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
GQPR12E@Prodigy.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 20:54:47 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <jlabay@ee.net>
Subject: '80 350 still shaking

Well I went through and replaced all the vacuum lines on my 80 442 with new
ones.  Installed them according to the 1980 Oldsmobile Factory Service Manual.
Now when the motor is cold it hardly shakes, runs pretty decent.  Now when it
gets up to operating temp it lopes as if it has a cam and will occasionally
stall if it is in gear and you turn the wheels at idle.  It revs up fine, runs
WOT with no misses or hesitation...just a crappy idle. You can visibly see the
motor rock pretty good.  I hooked back up my EGR that was unhooked and the 
motor
would die within 1 min at idle.....maybe that is why it was unhooked when I got
it :-) Any ideas as to how I could improve my idle would be appreciated.  Maybe
I need a carb rebuild? It has 94K and never rebuilt.

Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500     88 Trans Am GTA
75 Hurst/Olds W-25    80 Olds 442 W-30
72 Cutlass Supreme Drag Car
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/7565

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 21:12:11 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: More F28 Olds Queries

Rosalie Pech Eva wrote:
>
> Thanks everyone who responded to my initial questions!
>
> I have more information about my car:

> 1. Engine # III 775.

Engine # should start F1, according to Standard Catalog of Oldsmobile.
Also, serial number should be on right-hand body sill under front mat.
Engine # location is the same as the serial #.

> 3. Open four-door with canvas hood and side curtains.

This body was called the "Sport Phaeton".  Production was 804 and "was
the rarest of all standard models offered" according to the Cars of
Oldsmobile, by Dennis Casteele.  This book also says "ther is indication
that a good number of these were exported."

> 4. Wooden spoke wheels with spare rear-mounted above fuel tank.

Yours is a "standard" model.  The Deluxe model would have had wire
wheels with dual side-mounted spare tires.

> There is no suffix after F-28 on compliance plate; could this mean it is an
Australian made body?

Model number for standard sport phaeton (sport touring) is F-28ST.  May
be possible that this is an Australian body, in which case the
information provided above about the serial and engine numbers may not
apply.

> I will follow up Hemmings Motor News, please list book titles relating to
> this vehicle referred to in previous postings.

You should get copies of "The Cars of Oldsmobile" by Dennis Casteele,
the "Standard Catalog of Oldsmobile 1897-1997" by John Chevedden and Ron
Kowalke and "Setting the Pace" by Helen Jones Earley and James
Walkinshaw.  All three of these should be available from Classic
Motorbooks.  They advertise in Hemmings under "Literature for sale".
Always have an ad at least 4-6 pages long.

In answer to your question from the other day, it should have a Schebler
carb.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 21:14:49 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 65-67 400-425

In a message dated 98-08-05 16:27:22 EDT, you write:

<< Anyone ever build a high performance 65-67 400 or 425 for moderate drag
racing. If so any recommendations on cam, compression, intake ect. would be
helpful. Do the cranks have to be drilled for 4 speed on these motors? >>

I have read J. C.'s comments on this.

I will add my own odd notions....

Agree with JC about 1965... "A" cyl heads differ in hard-to-find-parts ways.
(This is why you may see "A" heads for sale at swap meets w/o rockers! Just
the bare studs!)

As you will apparently be using a 4-speed manual trans...kindly sell me the
TH-400 if from an automatic trans car. If trans is non-functional, I will
still be interested.

Finally, please do NOT drill the crank if not absolutely necessary. Drilling
is irreversible and not all that many forged steel crankshafts are still
around.

And to Jim Chermac; 9.5:1 compression *after* milling?
I was under the impression that most 1965-67 BB's were 10:1 or higher.
Or is that cyl head vol's/piston dishes were different in post-65 cars.

Oh, did you mean the short-stroke (different rods/pistons?) mods rob
compression? I heard longer rods were better...

Tell you what?
More on this in RocketTalk?

Thanks.
Both of you.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 21:14:47 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Bad luck

In a message dated 98-08-06 08:56:38 EDT, you write:

<< LIGHTS, LIGHTS and more LIGHTS >>

Well, unfortunately this depends on the local uh.... habitat as well.

Ever see "The Bad Liutenant"?

Scene where he watches (apathetically) a man across the street break into
several parked cars in suucession, in broad dayligh, in NYC.

I have seen same locally but youths with slim-jims.

Just mentioning.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 21:14:48 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Lines for a 425 1966

In a message dated 98-08-05 19:30:23 EDT, you write:

<<  From:	rmart@satlink.com (Raul Martinez)>>>

 <we know the next part>

 <<< File:  Unknown.bin (1893 bytes)
  DL Time (28800 bps): < 1 minute>>>

 <Rmmmmmm.  I'm gonna let that one slide!>
   >>

I was gonna let it pass, but your response had it as well.
I *think* that this is a kind of Ebuisiness card that is sent as an attached
file.
It is annoying, because it clutters up my download directory with files called
"unknown", "unknown1", "unknown2", "unknown3", "unknown4",.....

If you really want people to know about you and what you do for a living and
your Email address, then please use a 1-3 line footer in your postings. No you
do not necessarily need to type it out anew each time. Some Email systems use
a .sig file setup (consult Buehner about this). On the *rare* occasion that I
use a full footer, I copy it from an Email that I sent myself and stored in
what AOL calls a "favorite places" file. Copy, paste, send. Not hard.

And no this is not an angry Email that is "flaming" you.
I just get tired of deleting files that could have been stopped at the source.

And...
For my Tank-Pump fuel line, it has been suggested that 3/8 steel brake line
tubing does the job too. Your pump-carb requires only 2' or so. You will
prolly need a tubing bender, cutter *and* a flare tool. This tool flares out
the ends of the tubing so that the fittings (uh, have them on the tubing
before you flare the ends!) do not slide off.

And the mini-cutter should be adequate (and less $$) for most applications.
Especially those tight space under car times.....

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 21:26:46 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Pictures from OCA Nationals

> > I have uploaded pictures from the Oldsmobile Club
> > of America to my home page. Check them out at
> > http://www.tir.com/~richmond/ocanat.html
> > Give me some reviews.
> >
> > John Richmond

John,

Great pictures!  But you must have made a mistake.  You've got three
pics of that Starfire and NONE of my car.  Don't see how you could have
overlooked this, as there were ONLY 500 some odd cars there...

Good job! :)  You get a silver star.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 20:33:46 -0500
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for Decals

Dan Williams wrote:
	
	I'm looking for two decals that I don't know where to get.
	    1) The Frigidare decal for the air conditioner compressor
	    2) The decal for the back of the air cleaner that talks
about the
	air cleaner element and stuff (This was originally painted white
- -
	probably a stencile from the factory).

	Dan, try Mark Cornea Reproductions.  His email address is
drdecal442@aol.com.  He has a web page at
http://members.aol.com/drdecal442/mcr.html

	Hope this helps,

	Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
	Columbus, MS          1987 442

	http://www.442.com/newman.html
	http;//www.442.com/newmantape.html
	

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 21:57:22 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Distributor Woes

Joe wrote:
<There should be negligible play side-to-side or up-and-down, though most
factory Delco distributors have excessive up-and-down slop from the factory.
Side-to-side is more important in this case.>

I got to enthusiastically agree with the side slop in the distributor -- the
distributor got so bad in the replacement 350 currently residing in the C/S SX
that the Stinger ignition pickup assembly wouldn't signal the box to fire the
coil.  Until I got the Starfire GT running I had to go back to the point-style
ignition and another distributor.

As for the up-and-down play, aren't there shims you can add to take up this?


Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 22:07:34 EDT
From: <KWhite5590@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Package Tray Redux

you ought to try fiberglassing a thin spoiler style third brake light into the
package tray! now that was fun.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 22:08:40 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Comfortron

bradyiii@shore.intercom.net wrote:
>
> Here is another one for the list.  This one is for anyone familiar
> with the Comfortron climate control system.  My '73 Delta is equipped
> with this system.  Is this system worth fixing or should I replace
> the controls with direct heating/cooling controls.  My concern is
> with the durability of the sensors.  It seems it might be cheaper to
> replace Comfortron with regular controls.  Any thoughts?
>
> Jim Brady

Oh, no!  It's the "C" word again!  I've often said that if I have any
serious problems with the Comfortron system in my '67 I'd rip it out and
put push-button A/C in from a junk yard car.  Fortunately I haven't had
any problems that serious yet.  All the sensors in my car just turned
31, to hopefully yours will last at least that long.  Do you know what
problems you're having or what parts are bad.  I've always been lucky
enough to diagnose my own problems with the shop manual.  You may just
have a vacuum leak or a bad control valve.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 22:15:47 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: I no longer fear expansion joints!

Just got my 67 Cutlass back from the shop...new springs, shocks all
around, total front end rebuild.  We're back in full operating top-down
mode now...My real point to this message is in response to a dream I had
a couple of nights ago...This guy Mike that I used to know down in
Virginia and I dropped my 2-speed transmission out using a floor jack
and put a 3-speed in instead.  I'm obsessed now...can anyone impart unto
me the knowledge of what kinds of 3-speeds will mate with a rocket 330
with hopefully only minor modifications? if any?

"T"ing in "A"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 22:17:22 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Looking at a '71 Supreme

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> Going on Saturday to look at a '71 Supreme. It has 108K miles, owned ...
> Why I'm looking at another car I'll never know...

Uh, Greg, that question has the simpliest of answers.  Because it's
there, it sounds great and you think the price is or could be within
reason possibily.  Same disease that afflicts most on this list I would
suspect.  Sometimes you jsut can't pass up a "bargain".  That's the
reason I have 17 vehicles in a 4 driver family.  Then there is the well
this one could be saved with a little work, you know, new floors, new
trunk pan, new quarters, new fenders, doors, hood, deck lid, windshield,
etc, etc, etc.  And the fact it only has 600,000 miles or so on it just
means it will last forever, right?  Ah yes, the old car bug.  How I love
it!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 22:24:07 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Leaky Trans Cooler Line

In a message dated 98-08-06 20:10:35 EDT, you write:

<<  The line itself looked
 OK. It's dark, I banged my head on the hood and cut myself, I'm p*ss*d
 off, and I don't want to go back out there tonight. But I gotta know: am I
 dead in the water? Last time I did this the trans lines were easy, no
 leaks, and tonight they seemed to go in equally well. I hope I don't have
 to splice a hose in there. Even then, I'd need to find an adapter
 somewhere. Arrgh! Geez, nothing is ever simple. :(  >>

     Greg, I had this problem when I installed my trans cooler. Except I tried
to bend the metal cooling line slightly, without a tubing bender. Hook it up,
and it leaks. Tighten it a little, still leaks. Teflon tape, still leaked.
Pulled the cooling line off, a TINY hole that leaked quite well of course
under pressure!
     As long as the cooling lines are relatively straight, you may be able to
push the fitting back on the cooling line, and inspect the flare for burrs, or
dents, etc. At the same time inspect the cooling line itself, after cleaning
it off good. I can't think of any other causes, except maybe the fitting
bottoming out in the radiator threads, but I would think that would be pretty
unlikely (but of course on a car, not impossible!) Dorian

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1410
*********************************
