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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1450


oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, August 27 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1450



Re: color of valve cover???????
Re: parts for 83
Re: Jetting Carb
Re:  parts for 83
Re:  RE: parts for 83
M21 & M22 Transmissions
Re: parts for 83
Re:  Re: parts for 83
Re: M21 & M22 Transmissions
Mission Fast Street Car Impossible
Valve Overlap
RE: Exhaust ?'s
Date:	Wed, 26 Aug 1998 16:20:12 -0500
WTB: Seat belt headrest guides
Re: What is wrong with V6 3.8? Was:(Re: A couple questions for th e  folks in
Olds land) Re: Seat belt headrest guides Re: Indexing sparkplugs broken lower
control arms Re: Exhaust ?'s Donor cars for bucket seats test-ignore Re: parts
for 83 Re: What is wrong with V6 3.8? Was:(Re: A couple questions for the  
folks
in Ol Re: SS1's For Sale Re: What is wrong with V6 3.8? Was:(Re: A couple
questions for the  folks in Ol RE: SS1's For Sale RE: broken lower control arms
Hurst Hatch manual on ebay hood springs Re: What is wrong with V6 3.8?
Desperado New burnout pics posted OOOPS... Re: Mission Fast Street Car
Impossible PARTS LIST F*rd solenoid trick explained - long, delete if you know
how Re: Mission Fast Street Car Impossible Re: Indexing sparkplugs Re: Mission
Fast Street Car Impossible Re: Mission Fast Street Car Impossible FINALLY
figured it out! (was starter problems) Signing off for a few.... you suck,
you're dumb :)  was FINALLY figured out! Speedo drive gear Re: Mission Fast
Street Car Impossible

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 16:20:12 EDT
From: <RICH6986@aol.com>
Subject: Re: color of valve cover???????

Thanx for the info

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 16:28:33 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: parts for 83

> Cutlass Calais Coupe - "Sporty" car.  The Calais was only offered as a
> coupe.  The Calaises came standard with the following: Rallye gauges, bucket
> seats, center console, larger front swaybar, rear swaybar, body-color SSIII
> wheels.  The Hurst/Olds and 442 cars were based on the Calais coupe through
> 1985(?), possibly 1986.  They were then based on the "base" Cutlass Supreme
> cars.

Jason, sorry to correct, but this is a tad inaccurate.  The H/O was
based on the Calais, true, with option code W40.  In 1985, the Calais
went to FRONT wheel drive, separate body model, but was also the 85 Indy
Pace car.  So, they renamed the previous year's Calais, "Salon".  In 85
through 87 the Salon was available.  Here's the kicker.... 85/86 442 was
based on the Salon.  In 87, however, it was based on the Supreme.  Even
though they had a Salon body style that only needed the 442's specialty
parts to make it what it was...why did they do that?  I guess the world
may never know...

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 07:27:27 -0400
From: "Kerr, Brian (R)" <kerrb@basf-corp.com>
Subject: Re: Jetting Carb

Thanks for the reply:
My choke plate is actually not hooked up to anything at all so it doesnt
'set' at all. It stays open all the time. When I say I have to pump the
accelerator repeatedly, I am doing it with the engine cranking. The engine
 cranks until it gets fuel and then starts readily. It just seems that I
have to pump it alot in order to get gas to the carb. Almost like the gas is
draining back down alot. On the other hand, setting the choke would pull
more fuel and reduce the need to pump accelerator pump. The thing that
suprises me is how well the engine starts with choking. Of course, it has
been very warm this past month, so I have not had to try to start very cold.
I guess it could be a different story when I try to start it on a frosty
September morning.....

Brian Kerr
69 Cutlass Conv.
 ----------
From: DYeager535
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Jetting Carb
Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 3:23PM

In a message dated 98-08-26 12:00:03 EDT, you write:

<< When warm it starts
 and runs instantly, but after it has sat for a bit (overnight) I have to
 pump the accelerator while cranking until it gets gas and it fires and runs
 immediately. Some times it has to be pumped repeatedly in order to get fuel
 to the carb. It has a new fuel pump. It idles very smooth once it is warm,
 but idles rough when cold as the choke is not hooked up. There seems to be
 some parts missing for the choke. Any body got some ideas or base line
 recommendations. I also have the Qjet that came off the original '69 350 -
 condition unknown. >>

     Brings up a question...pumping the gas sets the choke. Wouldn't
continual
pumping with the engine not firing flood the engine? That may well be your
choke not setting when you pump it. You should have to pump the throttle
twice
maximum to get the choke to set. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 16:42:11 EDT
From: <JJP442@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  parts for 83

Some after market sunroof installers carry the GM maintenance parts, I suggest
you seek out one of these places and ask them. Years back I had my 78 Cutlass'
Astro roof It cost me a bundle but the guy had the parts. Since then the guy
is out of business. I know dealers deal with some pro sunroof guys maybe you
should ask them to recommend someone. I was pricing a new Impala SS in 96 and
wanted a sunroof (which was not an option) the salesman told me he could have
it sent out and installed so they gotta be out there somewhere.
Hope this helps & Good Luck,
JJP442@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 16:46:47 EDT
From: <JJP442@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  RE: parts for 83

Calais came standard with center console and gauges, that's sportier to me.
JJP442@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 15:52:05 -0500
From: "Reed, Steve" <sreed@cp.varco.com>
Subject: M21 & M22 Transmissions

>Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 15:07:16 -0500
>From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
>Subject: Re: Crank Mods

>>It is pretty strange, I don't
>>understand WHY Muncie Corp would have made the input shaft longer on
an
>>M-22 than an M-21.  More support for the front of the shaft?  I'm
>>clueless.  I have one of each and the M-22 is approximately .625
longer
>>than the M-21.

>Is the spline a different length also or just the tip?  Did you measure
the
>length of the entire shaft or just what sticks out of the front bearing
cover?
>In that case is there a difference in the bearing covers between the
M22s and
>the others?  The length from the front of the case where it mates to
the bell
>housing to the tip of the shaft is the important one in this case as
all the
>bell housings should be the same front to back.  If it is just a
difference in
>the tip that fits into the pilot bushing, length may not make a lot of
>difference as the bushings are typically deeper than the tip of the
shaft is
>long.  It could be a for more support as you suggest as the M22
trannies were
>generaly reserved for the higher output engines.  As long as this new
bearing
>set up does not interfere with the clutch disk, I don't see how it
could have
>a negative effect.  The shaft support will be slightly closer to the
tranny,
>which should be a little stronger.


>Dave Wyatt
>70  4-4-2

Dave,
	I'll take a look at both trannies this weekend.  They are at the
parent's house in storage right now.  I'm pretty sure the entire input
shaft is longer from the face of the transmission to the end of the
shaft.  I found this out the hard way when trying to mate my M-22 up to
an automatic crankshaft.  The input shaft/tranny bottomed out in the
crank.  I had to then get another clutch plate (Different spline count)
& temporarily use the M-21 to get my 4-4-2 on the moving truck.  The
M-21 worked no problem, having ~ .625 shorter input shaft.  This what
makes me believe the entire shaft is a different length between the two
Muncies.

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 16:53:07 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: parts for 83

True, very true.  I never think to put "Calais/Salon" in there instead of
just Calais.

Thanks for the clarification.

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Rothe. <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 4:31 PM
Subject: Re: parts for 83


>Jason, sorry to correct, but this is a tad inaccurate.  The H/O was
>based on the Calais, true, with option code W40.  In 1985, the Calais
>went to FRONT wheel drive, separate body model...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 16:55:34 EDT
From: <JJP442@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  Re: parts for 83

They did it to give us "Olds Nuts" something to e-mail about!!.lol
JJP442@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 16:01:46 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: M21 & M22 Transmissions

Steve,
The M21 should not have bolted up tight against the bell housing using an
un-drilled automatic crankshaft.  I stuck one together like this once for
storage and the tranny and bell housing had a gap of about 3/8" and would not
go closer.  It is possible that someone has shortened the M21 shaft in the
past.  I will measure a spare tranny and shaft one evening this week and
report back.  I will measure from the mating surface of the tranny to the tip
and also tip length from the spline out.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 16:14:04 -0500
From: Chad Schwartz <ChadS@pcsco.com>
Subject: Mission Fast Street Car Impossible

>This is not aimed at you, but countless others who claim that they have
a 10 second/9
>second/ 11 second strret car. Most are Mustang goofs. They think if
they
>put on flowmasters and a monster tach on the dash, the car is a 9-11
second
>car. Well the sad part is that the car is nothing more than maybe a 15
high
>14 second car. I always hear them talking at the car show places"Yeah
this
>thing runs 10's, no spray". It's all BS.

Not all of it is BS.  Tell that to the many 12, 11, 10, and 9 second
Turbo Regals and '89 Anniversary Turbo T/A's that DO run those times and
drive to the track (some 100's of miles) with the air conditioning on,
radio playing, family in the car, slicks in the back, and getting 20+
mpg to boot!! :-)
Many are daily drivers!!  My GN included.  My GN is capable of running
11's and is WAY more streetable than my slower gas guzzling low 13/high
12 second non-turbo V8 H/O.

Has anyone tried turbo charging a 455 Olds??   Sounds like streetable
fun to me! :-)

Chad Schwartz
chads@pcsco.com <mailto:chads@pcsco.com>
mIRC: ROCKN6
Denison, IA
'87 GN  T-Tops (TE-44, 40lb Inj, Modified Stock IC, ATR Cam, JC Chip,
                          ATR 2 ½" SS Exhaust, TH 3" DP, 3" Test Pipe,
ATR
                          Ram Air)
'79 H/O T-Tops (400 HP/430 TQ ZZ4 350 H.O. Chevy, TH350, 3.73 Posi)

"Poverty Is Owning A Race Car"  "Happiness Is A Low E.T."

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 16:16:24 -0500
From: "Reed, Steve" <sreed@CP.VARCO.COM>
Subject: Valve Overlap

<< What exactly is indexing spark plugs and what benefits can you gain
from
this?  How do I index my spark plugs? >>

OOH! ME!

Here is what I think I know;
(I think)

<Snip>

The idea behind this .... <Snip>

At high RPMs there is a point at the end of the exhaust stroke when BOTH
valves are open (at least somewhat!). [[No,......no..... so that is
where the
good Scotch went! no ..... no .... aha!]] well I found the printouts but
do
not have time to look through them now. The term that I am looking for
may be
"blow down" but am not certain.

The term for both valves being open simultaneously is called "Valve
Overlap"

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 17:18:04 -0400
From: "Weaver, Stanleigh G" <Stanleigh.Weaver@PHL.Boeing.com>
Subject: RE: Exhaust ?'s

Corey,

I would recommend that you contact "Torque Tech Inc." and have them send
you  a catalog. They make header-back and cat-back systems for A, F & G
body cars. Exhaust is available in 2-1/2" or 3" diameter. I have no
experience with their A-body kit but have been very happy with the
cat-back system (with 2-chamber Flowmasters) that I purchased from them
for my G-body Olds. I installed the system myself. Considering the fact
that laying on your back under your car to hang an exhaust is not the
most pleasant thing to do, I went relatively smooth. System came with
all necessary clamps and hangers and are designed to utilize existing
mounting holes for mufflers and tail pipes so not drilling is required.

Check them out:  	Torque Tech Inc.
			1826 Woodland Drive
			Valdosta, GA 31601

			Tech/Order: 1-800-408-0016
			Order Line: 912-242-0691

Stan

> ----------
> From: 	Corey Day[SMTP:dayc@ix.netcom.com]
> Sent: 	Wednesday, August 26, 1998 1:56 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Exhaust ?'s
>
> I am getting close to installing a 68 455 into a 1970 Cutlass, since I
> do
> not have the correct exhaust manifolds I am considering hedders/2.5
> inch
> system with a cross-over pipe and 3 chamber Flowmasters.
>
> Does anyone have any recommendations/experiences with this or a
> similiar
> situation?  Also has anyone used the Flowmaster "A" body exhaust
> kit???
>
> Thanks,
>
> Corey Day
> dayc@ix.netcom.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 16:20:12 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: Date:	Wed, 26 Aug 1998 16:20:12 -0500

unsubscribe oldsmobile csmetana@dowagro.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 17:20:56 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: WTB: Seat belt headrest guides

Anyone happen to have or know where I can get seat belt guides that
attach to the headrests on the bucket seats for Cutlass G-body, 1985,
interior code 82?  (Gray)  I guess I can repaint them if some other
color, but both are broken and I need to replace them.

Thanks,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 16:27:59 -0500
From: Chad Schwartz <ChadS@pcsco.com>
Subject: Re: What is wrong with V6 3.8? Was:(Re: A couple questions for th e
folks in Olds land)

>- ---Actually nothing wrong with them,except lack of power---BOTOH mine
>lasted 165,000 mi. and ran alright till the bitter end....actually
>still runs but knocks like a stormtrooper at the backdoor!!!Not to
>mention,if you ever change a V-6 ,to a V-6,It'll be the last time you
>do it~~:)V-8 actually easier to install AND tune-up.

Just swap out the N/A Buick 3.8 for a '86-'87 Buick SFI 3.8 Turbo motor.
Best of both worlds.  I already know someone that swapped in an older
turbo motor into a '80 Cutlass.  Loves it.

Just a thought. :-)

Chad Schwartz
chads@pcsco.com <mailto:chads@pcsco.com>
mIRC: ROCKN6
Denison, IA
'87 GN  T-Tops (TE-44, 40lb Inj, Modified Stock IC, ATR Cam, JC Chip,
                          ATR 2 ½" SS Exhaust, TH 3" DP, 3" Test Pipe,
ATR
                          Ram Air)
'79 H/O T-Tops (400 HP/430 TQ ZZ4 350 H.O. Chevy, TH350, 3.73 Posi)

"Poverty Is Owning A Race Car"  "Happiness Is A Low E.T."

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 17:42:14 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Seat belt headrest guides

I got mine from a junk yard Cutlass a while back and it (the pass side) was
tan in color.  I had the paint shop (my car was getting repainted at the
time and they said that they'd spray that guide for free) spray it, but the
maroon is already chipping off.  Make sure that you get it painted with a
few good thick coats.

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Rothe. <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 5:24 PM
Subject: WTB: Seat belt headrest guides


>Anyone happen to have or know where I can get seat belt guides that
>attach to the headrests on the bucket seats for Cutlass G-body, 1985,
>interior code 82?  (Gray)  I guess I can repaint them if some other
>color, but both are broken and I need to replace them.
>
>Thanks,
>Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 17:47:48 EDT
From: <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Indexing sparkplugs

In a message dated 8/26/98 1:01:23 PM EST, KarlAune@aol.com writes:

<<
 Here is what I think I know;
 (I think)

 Indexing your spark plug means installing each one so that the electrode
faces
 the exhaust port.

 The best way to acomplish this is to mark on the insulator before
installation
 (Karl uses a "China" marker).

  >>

Well, first point is on the direction.  I thought you were supposed to index
so the gap faces the middle/main portion of the combustion chamber, thus
giving a majority of the mixture the greatest access to the initial spark, and
allowing it to spread across the chamber in an even fashion (not off center
allowing full burn on one side, when it isn't completely to the other side).
That's what >I< remember.

Next, the marker is correct.  Mark the direction/opening of the plug (on the
ceramic), then play the "mating game" to see which plug ends up in the right
direction in each plug hole.  Each hole/plug will "match" differently due to
tapping of the hole, threads on the plug, and direction of the opening/gap.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 17:40:48 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: broken lower control arms

I've had my H-O racing suspension setup for 5 years now.  Recently,
when quickly letting off the gas, the car would swerve about a foot in
its lane.  I thought it might be a broken engine mount.  Upon further
inspection, turns out both lower control arms where busted.  These
were originally open channel arms that H-O racing had welded
reinforcements to so they could handle the 1 3/8" sway bar.  On one
side the bushing had completely ripped itself out of the hole at the
end of the bar.  Lucky for them, they are already out of business....

$800 later, I now have Hotchkis' s full .120 tubular control arms with
the extra braces that hold the upper and lower mounting points
together.  They have grooved poly bushings with zerk fittings for
grease.  No squeaks!

anyway, they are awesome and made a big difference.  I would recommend
them if your stock suspension is in need of replacement.  The kit is
$510, and labor was $270 counting a front end alighnment.

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 15:41:32 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust ?'s

forget the flow masters the walker race magnums sound and work better...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Corey Day <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 11:00 AM
Subject: Exhaust ?'s


>I am getting close to installing a 68 455 into a 1970 Cutlass, since I do
>not have the correct exhaust manifolds I am considering hedders/2.5 inch
>system with a cross-over pipe and 3 chamber Flowmasters.
>
>Does anyone have any recommendations/experiences with this or a similiar
>situation?  Also has anyone used the Flowmaster "A" body exhaust kit???
>
>Thanks,
>
>Corey Day
>dayc@ix.netcom.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 14:29:48 -0400
From: RAY.COSTANZO@firstunion.com
Subject: Donor cars for bucket seats

TO: Softswitch.OAS
CC:
FROM: RAY.COSTANZO@TAOFUN1
SUBJECT:  Donor cars for bucket seats

   So, I am looking and have been looking for bucket seats for my 87,
   and of course they cannot be found.  I have seen other cars ie. 86i
   sh Pointiac Grand Ams, 92 LuminaZ34s and others, that have nicely m
   atching seats, by pattern and color.  I'm just wondering if anyone
   has a list or knowledge of other cars in which the pattern matches
   that of an 87 Cutlass Supreme.

   p.s.  Doesn't the 87 have a different pattern than 81-86?

   Thanks

   Ray Costanzo
   87 409 Cutlass
   ray.costanzo@firstunion.com






































------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 15:47:39 -0400
From: RAY.COSTANZO@firstunion.com
Subject: test-ignore

TO: Softswitch.OAS
CC:
FROM: RAY.COSTANZO@TAOFUN1
SUBJECT:  test-ignore

   Ray Costanzo
   87 409 Cutlass
   ray.costanzo@firstunion.com

















































------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 19:19:10 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Re: parts for 83

Jason....One other correction. The '86 442 was a Salon option and not
the Supreme or Calais as you stated. I think '86 was the only year
this occured. I'm sure I will be corrected if I'm wrong.!!

Mike.............

> True, very true.  I never think to put "Calais/Salon" in there instead of
> just Calais.
>
> Thanks for the clarification.
>
> Jason Adcock
> mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
> http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Rothe. <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 4:31 PM
> Subject: Re: parts for 83
>
>
> >Jason, sorry to correct, but this is a tad inaccurate.  The H/O was
> >based on the Calais, true, with option code W40.  In 1985, the Calais
> >went to FRONT wheel drive, separate body model...
>
>
>
       "Still crazy.......after all these years......"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 19:22:55 EDT
From: <MFATZII@aol.com>
Subject: Re: What is wrong with V6 3.8? Was:(Re: A couple questions for the
folks in Ol

In a message dated 8/25/98 7:50:34 PM Central Daylight Time,
super442@yahoo.com writes:

<< if you ever change a V-6 ,to a V-6,It'll be the last time you
 do it~~:)V-8 actually easier to install AND tune-up. >>


a v-8 will fall into place of a v-6 as in the case of my 85 CSB??  If so,
which v-8?  350? been thinking of doing this but didn't know it was so
easy......please elaborate....

Ryan (MFatzII@aol.com)
Lincoln,   Nebraska  (Home of the Cornhuskers, too bad they suck !)

56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project Rocket)
<A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click here</A>
85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
89 Chevy Beretta CL


    888                888
  8      8           8       8
8          8       8           8
  8      8           8       8
    8  8               8   8           LIVES
  8      8           8       8
8          8       8           8
  8     8            8       8
    888                888

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 19:27:54 EDT
From: <MFATZII@aol.com>
Subject: Re: SS1's For Sale

hmmmmm, 200.00 huh

I talked to a guy today who says he has a set of chrome wheels off a 68
cutlass (not a 442)  they aren't deep dish wheels and have the black centers,
he says they're chrome and have the caps and rings...well he says he's pretty
sure they're complete.  He asked me what they were worth to me......haven't
said much more to him about it...could probly get them for 50 bucks.....oh ya,
he said they were 14 inchers and that they wouldn't fit over disk
brakes.......should I snatch them up?

Ryan (MFatzII@aol.com)
Lincoln,   Nebraska  (Home of the Cornhuskers, too bad they suck !)

56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project Rocket)
<A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click here</A>
85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
89 Chevy Beretta CL


    888                888
  8      8           8       8
8          8       8           8
  8      8           8       8
    8  8               8   8           LIVES
  8      8           8       8
8          8       8           8
  8     8            8       8
    888                888

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 19:37:13 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: What is wrong with V6 3.8? Was:(Re: A couple questions for the
folks in Ol

MFATZII@aol.com wrote:

> a v-8 will fall into place of a v-6 as in the case of my 85 CSB??  If so,
> which v-8?  350? been thinking of doing this but didn't know it was so
> easy......please elaborate....

Yes and no...  If you've got a 200-C Tranny...  I'd find a 307 and stick
it in there, stock...  Otherwise, unless you wanna trade tranny's..  455
it!
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 17:42:58 -0600
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: RE: SS1's For Sale

> he said they were 14 inchers and that they wouldn't fit over disk
> brakes.......should I snatch them up?

I would.  I'd have snatched them two Cutlass' at that ol' farm auction,
too... if I lived in Nebraska.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 17:51:25 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: broken lower control arms

Does or would Hotchkis make lower control arms for
B or C body big Olds? What's their number so I might
give them call.

I've found this a weak spot in the design of the mid-60s
big cars and would like a solution I can depend on at 80mph.
The suspension arms are the only things (besides spindles)
that I worry about @80mph on the fwy.

Breaking A-arms will ruin your whole day. Lower trailing arms
too, but then I've told those stories here before.

cf

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gregory Zimmerman [mailto:zimmermangm@email.msn.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 2:41 PM
> To: Olds list
> Subject: broken lower control arms
>
!
>
> anyway, they are awesome and made a big difference.  I would recommend
> them if your stock suspension is in need of replacement.  The kit is
> $510, and labor was $270 counting a front end alighnment.
>
> -greg

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 20:51:59 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Hurst Hatch manual on ebay

Hey all,

This is actually a Buick item, but Hurst Hatch roof panels should be the
same for all GM lines.  If you need a leak diagnosis/repair manual for
your '75 or '76 Hurst Hatch roof, to here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=27269655

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 20:56:37 -0400
From: "George & Joan C. Lesperance" <gal1@MNSi.Net>
Subject: hood springs

Does anyone know if somebody makes new hood spring for A body 1968/72
olds.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 20:06:36 -0500
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: Re: What is wrong with V6 3.8?

Rich wrote:
	
	<snip>

	there is nothing wrong w/ the v-6 3.8


	Guys, I meant no disrespect for the 3.8 in my previous post.  My
1982 Cutlass Supreme that I drove in high school and college had a Buick
231 V-6 in it with a 2bbl. carb, and that thing was anemic.  I've never
had any experience with running a 3.8, but that 231 soured me on 6's for
one lifetime.  (They didn't even have the decency to put an OLDS engine
in it.  :-)   My 307 is no tire-burner by any means, but it's better
than that wimpy 231...

	2 pennies,

	Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
	Columbus, MS         1987 442

	http://www.442.com/newman.html
	http://www.442.com/newmantape.html
	

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 21:03:33 -0400
From: Matthew Clark <hazmatt@tiac.net>
Subject: Desperado

I'm in the middle of a frame off restoration on my 68 442 holiday
coupe.   I am in DESPERATE need of an NOS or MINT drivers side fender
and both rear quarters.   Please help.

hazmatt@tiac.net
MC

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 18:06:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: JM <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: New burnout pics posted

Hi gang,
       Just got some new burnout pics posted,both are some of the
"Oldsmagnet"s friends,one is a 68 GTO(not anther Pontiac thread
,please),and one of a 69 Cutlass doing a burnout in his
garage...ooh,Pat would be mad...
         Later,
              John
==
John McJunkin
mailto:super442@yahoo.com           ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass-- http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
frog442's 84-- http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 18:02:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: JM <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: OOOPS...

Sorry,

Forgot to post the address to the burnout page.
 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts
        John
==
John McJunkin
mailto:super442@yahoo.com           ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass-- http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
frog442's 84-- http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 22:05:15 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Mission Fast Street Car Impossible

I've got a simple, more feasible option than a turbo 455. Just build a ROCK
SOLID big valve, moderate cam, nodular crank, forged piston, super balanced,
ported and milled 455 that will turn 400 hp. Easy so far right? On your ROCK
SOLID 455, stick a heavy dose nitrous kit, and blast off. If you build it
solid enough, the motor will even take the occasional 500 hp dose of
nitrous. But let's go conservative, stick to 250-300 hp of nitrous. If my
addition is correct, that equal 650-700 hp on a very streetable car. If you
go with the radical 500 hp kit ;-), then we're talking 900 hp. I'd go
looking for GN's in THAT! (with my AC, and my power brakes, and my stereo
going)

GAS IS CHEAP NOW!

- -----Original Message-----

>
>Not all of it is BS.  Tell that to the many 12, 11, 10, and 9 second
>Turbo Regals and '89 Anniversary Turbo T/A's that DO run those times and
>drive to the track (some 100's of miles) with the air conditioning on,
>radio playing, family in the car, slicks in the back, and getting 20+
>mpg to boot!! :-)
>Many are daily drivers!!  My GN included.  My GN is capable of running
>11's and is WAY more streetable than my slower gas guzzling low 13/high
>12 second non-turbo V8 H/O.
>
>Has anyone tried turbo charging a 455 Olds??   Sounds like streetable
>fun to me! :-)
>
>Chad Schwartz
>chads@pcsco.com <mailto:chads@pcsco.com>
>mIRC: ROCKN6
>Denison, IA
>'87 GN  T-Tops (TE-44, 40lb Inj, Modified Stock IC, ATR Cam, JC Chip,
>                          ATR 2 ½" SS Exhaust, TH 3" DP, 3" Test Pipe,
>ATR
>                          Ram Air)
>'79 H/O T-Tops (400 HP/430 TQ ZZ4 350 H.O. Chevy, TH350, 3.73 Posi)
>
>"Poverty Is Owning A Race Car"  "Happiness Is A Low E.T."
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 22:40:09 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: PARTS LIST

                                          C&M Classic Parts
                       1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                                (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
                                         <chermac@exis.net>
                                               OCA# 24275

Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm,  Sat 9:00 am - 3:00 pm,  Sunday Closed
*We accept all major Credit Cards. VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and Discover.*

*** We will be at Fall Charlotte Swap Meet at the Carlotte Motor Speedway
from 10-13 September***

** As of September we will again be shipping to Canada**

                                         GM Restoration Parts

New arrival "Parts"
66 442 W-30 Bumper Ducts (2 sets, new doesn't include hoses)  $600.00 set
98 Intrigue Promo Models (black)  $30.00 ea
67 442 W-30 Core Support (factory stamped, bent on LH side)  $145.00
70-72 Dash Plastic (radio area , no woodgrain) mint $45.00
Super Stock I and II/III centers (N.O.S.)  SALE $31.00 ea.
64-67 Console Vacuum Gauge assm (Aftermarket Tach in housing)  $40.00
64-66 Auto Console (black, w/wiring, nice)  $125.00
66 442 Grille (good bars, decent rocket, 1 tab missing)  $100.00
67 8 Track Player (nice, works?)  $75.00
68 8 Track Player (needs work, nice unit, housing broken)  $65.00
66 Toro Front Valance Panel (complete w/headlight assm)  $90.00
71 Cutlass "S" Grilles (nice used)  $100.00 pr
66 442/Cutlass Owners Manual (mint)  $12.00
64-72 Power Door Lock Solenoids  $35.00 ea
64-67 Auto Trans Flexplates  $35.00
69 ERTL Hurst/ Olds (discontinued)  $45.00
65-67 400 Jahn's Pistons (new, + .025, floating pins)  $300.00
69-72 Tilt Steering Column (1 console, 1 column shift) $150 cons, $125 col.
Toro Oil Pan (w/HV Melling pump and pickup) $135.00
68-72 Z-bar  $45.00 ea
70-72 350 4 bbl Intake Manifold  $55.00
68-72 Conv. Windshield molding set (mint)  $125.00 set
68-72 4 spd. Z bar support (bolt on) $15.00
69-72 Seat Backs & Lower Sides (nice orig, black or tan)  $100.00 set
64-67 A/C Chrome Dash Bezels (nice)  $40.00 pr
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgates Switch Bezels (mint)  $5.00 ea

New Repro Parts:
70-72 Dash Chrome Bead (new)  $58.00 ea
64-67 Battery Tray (Repro)  $30.00
66 442 Tri-Carb Linkage Kit (complete) $78.00
67 442 Grille Bar (repro)  $96.00
67 Fender Eye Brow Moldings (LH/RH, repro)  $73.00 pr
66-67 442/Cutlass Drip Rail Moldings (NEW, repro) $78.00 set
67-70 Turn Signal Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea
67-70 Tilt Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea
67-75 TH400 Shifter Cable Bracket (Repro)  $28.00
68-72 License Plate Bracket (Repro)  $26.50
68-70 W-31 Cam Kits (w/lifters & lube)  $132.00
68-72 1/4 Glass Chrome Moldings (Repro)  $92.00 pr
69-72 Rear Spoiler (3 piece repro)  $255.00
70-72 Hood Pin Kits (NEW, original supplier, complete) $115.00
71or72 442 Grille Numeral Sets (repro, either year)  $34.00 set
71-72 442 Hood Emblem (repro, Non OAI) $20.00

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts 1964-1972 Olds/Cutlass/442
64 BIG CAR (N.O.S.) RH Fender  $300.00
68-72 W-30 Stick Cam .475 lift/ 328 dur. (N.O.S. in box)  $275.00
64-72 Clutch Inspection covers (N.O.S.)  $22.00 ea
68-72+ TH Torque Converter Cover (Plastic, N.O.S.)  $36.00 ea
66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea  **SALE $31.00 ea

68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea ** SALE $31.00 ea

68-7? Under Hood Light kits (N.O.S.)  $40.00 ea
69-72 442 Trunk Numeral Sets (N.O.S.) $50.00 set
69-70 442 Hood Numeral Sets  (N.O.S.) $50.00 set
69-72 442 Fender Numeral Sets (N.O.S.) $38.00 set
70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
70-72 OAI Air Cleaner Springs (N.O.S)  $5.00 ea
71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr
71-72 Front Grille Plastics (N.O.S)  $35.00 ea
72 Cutlass Supreme & Hurst/Olds Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr
73-77 Cutlass/442/Hurst Wiper Switch (N.O.S.)  $22.00

New Aftermarket Parts
Competition Cams 280H Magnum cam (new)  $120.00
66-72 Oil Pressure Sending Unit (With Gauges)  $24.00 ea
64-87 Oil Pressure Sending Unit (W/O Gauges)  $13.00 ea
69-72 Ignition Switch (w/o tilt)  *new*  $24.00
69-72 Ignition Switch (w/tilt) *new*  $22.00
70-72 455 Engine Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $32.00 pr
64-67 330 / 68-72 350 Engine Mount (NEW)  $32.00 pr
64-72 Jetaway/TH350, 4 Spd Trans Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $14.00
350/455 Oil Pump Screens (NEW)  $13.00 ea
425/455 Toro Oil Pump Screens (NEW)  $20.00 ea
STD Melling Oil Pumps (NEW)  $30.00 ea
Hi Volume Melling Oil Pumps (NEW)  $46.00 ea
330/350 10.5 in x 10 spline Clutch Kits includes Pressure plate, disc,
throwout bearing, alignment tool. (all NEW pieces)  $135.00 + $19.00 core 
charge
400/455 11.0 in x 10 spline Clutch Kits same as above (all NEW pieces)
$135.00 +$19.00 core charge
3&4 Spd. Pilot Bushing (Bronze) new  $7.50 ea
3&4 Spd. HD Roller Pilot Bearing new  $24.50 ea

Used Parts:
64 Cutlass/442
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $75.00
64-65 Spinner Hubcab (dual bar, single)  $35.00
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00
Front Bumper Core  $50.00
F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00
64-65 F-85 Steering Wheel Center (mint)  $15.00

65 Cutlass/442
65 442 Air Cleaner Top (no base)  $100.00
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $75.00
65 Cutlass Dash Emblem (mint)  $20.00
64-65 Spinner Hubcab (dual bar, single)  $35.00
65 Cutlass 4 Door Rear Wheelwell Die cast pieces (front)  $20.00 pr
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  LH/RH rear $15.00 ea
64-65 F-85 Steering Wheel Center (mint)  $15.00

66 Cutlass/442
(1) 66-67 14x6 SSI  (good cond)  $50.00
66-67 442 Air Cleaner (1 nice, 1 good)  $85.00 (good)  $165.00 (nice)
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $75.00
66 Cutlass-67 Cutlass/442 Fenders (Arizona parts, nice)  $500.00 pr
66-67 Inner Fender Plastic Clips $1.00 ea
66 442 Trunk Chrome Panels  $100.00 ea
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Emblem $10.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Molding  $20.00
66 Fender Eybrows (nice, no pits)  $35.00 pr
66 Spinner Hubcap (Tri bar, single)  $20.00
66 Floor Shift Steering Column Collars $10.00 ea
66-67 Clocks  $40.00 ea
66 Cutlass Supreme Dash Emblem (very nice)  $20.00
66 F-85 Deluxe Dash Emblem (nice)  $5.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Molding  $35.00
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
66 Cutlass Trunk Molding (very good)  $45.00
66 Cutlass Tail Light Bezels (very good)  $85.00 pr
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (nice)   $55.00
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (good)  $35.00
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
66 Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
Post Coupe Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr
F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea

67 Cutlass/442
(1) 66-67 14x6 SSI  (good cond)  $50.00
67 Front Bumper Filler Panel (mint)  $40.00
67 442/Cutlass Radiator Support (nice)  $130.00
66-67 442 Air Cleaner (1 nice, 1 good)  $85.00 (good)  $165.00 (nice)
66-67 Inner Fender Plastic Clips $1.00 ea
67 442 Trunk Panel (beautiful)  $150.00
67 Deluxe Full Wheel Covers $35.00 set
66-67 Clocks  $40.00 ea
67 Cutlass Dash Emblem (good)  $10.00
67 Cutlass Supreme Dash Emblems (2 very nice)  $20.00 ea
67 442/Cutlass Front Bumper Guards  $15.00 pr
67 Remote Mirror (good, not great)  $20.00
67 F-85 Steering Wheel Center (good chrome) $15.00
67 Cutlass Supreme/442 Steering Wheel Centers (mint)  $35.00
67 Fender End Caps  $30.00 pr
67 4 spd Speedometer Adapter (3.42 gears & 4spd)  $45.00
67 Plain Cutlass Holiday Hardtop interior door panels and rear sides (very
nice, blue/green) $85.00 set of 4
67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea
67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.50 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $50.00 pr
67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $100.00 ea
67 RH Fender (small metal patch panel, straight)  $165.00

68 Cutlass/442
68 442 Air Cleaner Heat tube assm (2 pieces)  $30.00
68-69 442 Glove Box Door (black)  $18.00
68-69 LH Plastic Inner Fender (w/black washer bottle)  $65.00
68-69 442/W-30 400 Intake Manifold  $50.00
68 Cutlass/442 Backup Lens (nice)  $22.00 pr
68 Trunk Vinyl Top Molding & Plate  $25.00
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
68 Turn Signal Lens (mint)  $12.00 ea
68 Cutlass Rear Bumper (core)  $75.00
68-69 14x6 SSII Wheels (set of 5)  $200.00
68 AM Radio  $25.00
68  8-Track Unit (2) (housing cracked, needs plastic one)  $55.00 ea
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00
Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00
68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $25.00 ea
68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Sets (black, mint) $27.50 pr

69 Cutlass/442
68-69 442 Glove Box Door (black)  $18.00
68-69 LH Plastic Inner Fender (w/black washer bottle)  $65.00
69 Front Bumper (no pits, bent from tow truck)  $85.00
69 Cutlass Grilles (mint LH, N.O.S. RH)  $140.00 pr
69 Cutlass Rear Bumper (nice, no pits, straight)  $110.00
69 Head light Housings (mint)  $75.00 pr
69 Head light Bezels (mint)  $65.00 pr
69 Hood Tongue $20.00
68-69 442/W-30 400 Intake Manifold  $50.00
69 Convertible Trunk Lid (nice)  $150.00
69 Turn Signal Lens (nice)  $25.00 pr
69 Front Grille Center Filler (between grilles)  $8.00
69 Full Hubcaps (nice)  $35.00 set
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
69 Cutlass RH Grille (nice, used)  $40.00
69 Radiator Core Support 3 Row (mint, no rust holes)  $150.00
69 Headlight Bezels  $60.00 pr
69-72 Hood Hinges  $40.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Louver Chrome  $25.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Louver Moldiings  $25.00 pr
68-72 Windshield Molding Sets  $45.00 set
69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
69 RH Fender (small nickel sized hole)  $200.00
69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $55.00 ea
69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $25.00 ea

70 Cutlass/442
70 Hood Tongue $40.00
70 Front Bumper (core)  $85.00
70 Fender Eybrows (nice, no pits)  $45.00 pr
70 RH Rally 350 grille (repaired, nice)  $75.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
70 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr
70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (excellent)  $115.00
70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00
69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00
69-70 "S" Hood Chrome Vents  $25.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Vent Moldings  $25.00 pr
70 "S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr
70 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $90.00
70-72 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens (restored)  $17.00 ea
70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens (restored) $23.00 ea

71 Cutlass/442
70-71 Cutlass Supreme Side Marker Lights (mint)  $70.00 set
71 LH Cutlass Supreme Grille (nice)  $85.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 pr
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
70-72 C/S LH/RH Side Glass  $25.00 ea
71 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr

72 Cutlass/442
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 pr
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00
72 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr
72 Tail Light Lens  $13.00 ea

73 and Newer and Big Car Parts:
66-67 TH425 Toro Transaxle  (switchpitch, very good)  $200.00
Late 73-74 Olds HEI distributors (non cumputer, w/cap and coil)  $45.00 ea
73-75 442 Console and Shifter (Maroon)  $120.00
73-77 Omega Floor Shift Tilt  $65.00
75 Omega Front Fenders (very nice pair)  $180.00 pr
75 Omega Bucket Seats (nice, maroon cloth)  $85.00 pr
66-67 Toronado Rear Bumper (very nice)  $150.00
66 Toro Batman Steering Wheel, Tilt/Tele column (black, very nice)  $145.00
72 Delta 88 Qtr End caps  $25.00 pr
72 Delta 88/ Ninety Eight Owners Manual (nice) $5.00
62 Super 88 Tail Panel Chrome  (good)  $25.00
62 Super 88 Grille (good)  $50.00
62 Big Car (88, 98, Starfire) Front Bumper (straight, very good)  $95.00


New reproduction parts:
Convertible Top Boots (Correct Grains for each different year)  $89.00ea
64  Black, Red, Lt. Blue, Fawn, Saddle, Turqoise, White
65  Same as 64
66-67 Black, Red, Light Blue, Med. Blue, Bronze, Turqoise, White, Gold
68-72 Black, Red, Parchment, Lt. Blue, Teal Blue, Green Gold, Gold, Pearl,
Dk Blue, Dk. Green, Lt. Green, Lt. Saddle, Dk Saddle, Olive Green, Royal
Blue, White, Sandalwood,

Molded Carpet Sets  $95.00
64-67 - (Black, Red, Med. Blue, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Maroon)
68-72 - (Black, Red, Maroon, Turqoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Med. Blue, Dk. Green,
Green Gold, Lt. Green, Teal Blue, Saddle, Sandalwood)
73-77 - (Same as 68-72 except Green Gold)

Door Panels  64-72  $265.00 for a set of all 4

Seat Covers  64-72  $335.00 front and rear sets any year or color.

Vinyl Dash Overlays (makes your wood dash areas look like carbon fiber)
$50.00 set

Lifetime Guarantee on all correct bead window felts  $92.00 set (inner & outer)
66-67 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (correct bead type)
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (not Supreme Coupes, correct bead)
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv (Outers only, correct bead)  $50.00

Replacement Window Felts (Flat type)  $60.00 set (inner & outer)
64-72 Cutlass/442 (state year and model)

Glove Box Liners
64-67 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
68-69 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
70-72 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99

Qrt Seals
70-72 Cutlass Supreme & Conv Qtr End seals  $13.00 pr

Hood Insulation
64-65 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
66 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
67 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
68-70 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner (wclips)  $18.00
70-72 Cutlass Supreme Hood Liner (w/clips)  $18.00
73-77 Cutlass $28.00

Liner Clips
Round Clips  $1.00 ea
Square Clips  $1.00 ea

A-Arm Shields
68-72 Upper A-Arm dust shields  $14.99 pr

***** 69-72 "W" and "Z" exhaust manifold sets (REPRO) Winter 98 *****
       We will be test fitting and running them later this year before they
are shipped to GM for final approval. They will be available exclusively
from C&M.
Price is around $300.00 for a set. Different date codes will not be
available at this time. Maybe in the future. Delay has occurred due to
change in manufacturer.

        66-67 "X" and "W" exhaust manifold sets (REPRO) Spring 99

***** Shift Indicators for ALL console A-body 64-75 and 63 Starfires will be
available in July/August. Including Dual Gates.

        66 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $1795.00
        67 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $995.00
        66 & 67 Track Pac kits (complete, just like the dealer option includes;
        shroud, ducts, hoses, cam/lifters, battery accessories)
Winter/Spring 98/99.

TOY'S:
69 442's (HotWheels size, Speed Rebels) Red $1.75 ea
Johnny Lightning Pace Cars
70 442 Pace Car (bronze or teal)  $3.50 ea
74 Hurst/Olds Pace Car (magenta)  $3.50 ea
79 Delta 88 Pace Car (White)  $3.50 ea

Others:
70 GTO Judge (Yellow) $1.75 ea

Models:
67 W-30 442 (Lindberg)  $14.00 ea

Odds and Ends (not Olds, but GM parts we have lying around)
70-74 Trans Am Exhaust Tips (N.O.S)  $150.00 pr
68-71 Buick GS Ram Air air cleaner assm  $150.00
70-72 Buick AM/FM Stereo $150.00
71-72 Chevelle SS Emblem Kit (complete car, N.O.S. and Repro, includes door
panel SS N.O.S. emblems)  $140.00
64-65 Pontiac Chrome Valve Covers  $45.00 pr
Mid 60's Pontiac Dog Dish Hubcaps (nice)  $80.00 set

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 22:30:12 -0400
From: Joe_Gut <Joe_Gut@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: F*rd solenoid trick explained - long, delete if you know how

Since a few people asked me what I meant by my "F*rd solenoid" trick I
spoke of last night, I thought I'd reply to the list.  It seems hot
starting problems are going around these days (no surprise).

I know a lot of members know this old trick, but it might help a few
folks so bear with me (or delete!).  This was explained on the list a
while back, but I didn't understand it then.  Maybe I can explain it a
bit more clearly.

Basically, the F solenoid is divorced from the starter and therefore
dosen't bake like the GM design.  I have found two ways to incorporate
this into my Olds:

One, buy the "Hot Start" kit from Summit.  It comes with the solenoid, a
jumper that you need and some wires, with instructions.  Cost is about
$25, and it works well.  You will have better results if you replace
your battery cables with good thick ones when you do the switch, WalMart
by my house sells 2 gauge cables for a good price.  Worst part of the
job is pulling the starter, but you have to do it under either method.
With the starter down, I always disassemble and clean the contacts on
the inside of GM solenoid (don't know if that's necessary, but dosen't
hurt).

Cheaper way, buy a F solenoid from a parts store for $10 or less. Mount
on the fenderwell - mine fits nicely between the battery and the horn
relay.  Disconnect the battery and buy the replacement thick battery
cables.  Remove the wire from the "S" terminal of your GM solenoid (it
is marked under the gunk), and jump the "S" terminal on the GM solenoid
to the large battery terminal on the GM solenoid.  The Summit kit comes
with a nice copper jumper, but I guess you could make one from wire or
copper plate.  Then run the disconnected "S" wire to the "S" terminal on
the new F solenoid, run the new cables to the F solenoid and from the F
solenoid to the battery terminal on the GM solenoid, reattach the
starter and battery and you are ready to go.

I run HEI on my cars so I don't have the "R" wire for my ignition, but I
guess if you just leave this hooked up on your existing GM solenoid you
will be ok.  Maybe the experts here could correct me if I'm wrong on
this.

An added bonus is that it's easy to "bump the engine over" with a
screwdriver using the F solenoid.

Hope this helps someone - wish I'd had known this for my high school
Cutlass (_not_ cool waiting for your car to cool while on a date!).

Joe Gutierez OCA 30387 H/O 714
71 442 convt
72 H/O h/t

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 22:59:36 -0500
From: "patrick derkacz" <patrickd@wwnet.com>
Subject: Re: Mission Fast Street Car Impossible

Has anyone tried turbo charging a 455 Olds??   Sounds like streetable
fun to me! :-)

I have been giving this some thought but am a little intimidated by the need
to fabricate an intake.  I was thinking if I could pick up a couple of
turbos from the old chrysler 2.2 and make a twin turbo it would be awesome.
But I know I don't know jack about how to make it work.

The turbo basically spins from the exhaust and compresses the air/fuel
mixture on the intake side, right?  So you would need to fabricate an intake
to mount one side of the turbo to the exhaust manifold and the other side to
the intake and be able to regulate the amount of boost.

Anyone got more insight than me or know of a good reference source? Let me
know, I would really like to try and do this.
patrickd@wwnet.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 23:40:32 EDT
From: <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Indexing sparkplugs

In a message dated 98-08-26 17:51:49 EDT, you write:

<< Well, first point is on the direction.  I thought you were supposed to
index
 so the gap faces the middle/main portion of the combustion chamber, thus
 giving a majority of the mixture the greatest access to the initial spark,
and
 allowing it to spread across the chamber in an even fashion (not off center
 allowing full burn on one side, when it isn't completely to the other side).
 That's what >I< remember. >>
This is a big controversy that we have uncovered with all the big boys. Some
say to the exhaust and some say to the intake. Nice article for Hot Rod mag to
do. Try it on a dyno.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 23:47:03 EDT
From: <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Mission Fast Street Car Impossible

In a message dated 98-08-26 23:40:23 EDT, you write:

<< Has anyone tried turbo charging a 455 Olds??   Sounds like streetable
 fun to me! :-)

 I have been giving this some thought but am a little intimidated by the need
 to fabricate an intake.  I was thinking if I could pick up a couple of
 turbos from the old chrysler 2.2 and make a twin turbo it would be awesome.
 But I know I don't know jack about how to make it work.

 The turbo basically spins from the exhaust and compresses the air/fuel
 mixture on the intake side, right?  So you would need to fabricate an intake
 to mount one side of the turbo to the exhaust manifold and the other side to
 the intake and be able to regulate the amount of boost.

 Anyone got more insight than me or know of a good reference source? Let me
 know, I would really like to try and do thi >>
Why go threw all that headache of turbo charges yuck. Bolt on a paxton and be
on your way. No exhaust system nightmare. make a few brackets and have a
pullie made. Im going todo it over the winter on a 74 cutlass w/455. i have
the paxton just have to make the brackets.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 00:02:11 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Mission Fast Street Car Impossible

Ed Binnix wrote:
>
> I've got a simple, more feasible option than a turbo 455. Just build a ROCK
> SOLID big valve, moderate cam, nodular crank, forged piston, super balanced,
> ported and milled 455 that will turn 400 hp. Easy so far right? On your ROCK
> SOLID 455, stick a heavy dose nitrous kit, and blast off. If you build it
> solid enough, the motor will even take the occasional 500 hp dose of
> nitrous. But let's go conservative, stick to 250-300 hp of nitrous. If my
> addition is correct, that equal 650-700 hp on a very streetable car. If you
> go with the radical 500 hp kit ;-), then we're talking 900 hp. I'd go
> looking for GN's in THAT! (with my AC, and my power brakes, and my stereo
> going)
>
> GAS IS CHEAP NOW!

Shoot! If you're going to waste all that money on the cheater juice, why
not just save up and buy that Paxton for Q-jetted GM's? Get some J heads
with big valves an slap a 10 lbs of boost on her. Then, she'll move!

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
         777777 33333
            77      33
Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
          77        33
         77     33333
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 00:08:48 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: FINALLY figured it out! (was starter problems)

I suck....
I'm dumb...

Remember how I said that I had switched the purple and yellow wires
around and it still didn't work? Well, it never occoured to me that the
starter had to be bolted in to be grounded, not just dangling below. So,
I switched the wires, BOLTED IT BACK TO THE BLOCK, then she turned over
and fired up like a dream...a $300 dream anyway :-)

Thanx for the help, guys....

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
         777777 33333
            77      33
Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
          77        33
         77     33333
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 00:13:34 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Signing off for a few....

I have to sign off for a while.. tomorrow at 6am we pack up the van and
I go to college!!! When I get up there and get everything situated, I'll
log back on, but for now it's.............



Good bye :-)

BTW- if anybody needs a 2bbl and manifold (non-egr) from a 70 Cutlass S,
I'd be happy to part with it.
- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
         777777 33333
            77      33
Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
          77        33
         77     33333
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 22:17:49 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: you suck, you're dumb :)  was FINALLY figured out!

Matt Cremean wrote:
> Well, it never occoured to me that the starter had to be bolted
> in to be grounded, not just dangling below.
>
> I suck....
> I'm dumb...

Matt...  Don't beat yourself up too bad over the deal...  Trust me, ~nearly~
everyone has made the same mistake at some point in time.  Something ~soooo~
easy to overlook.  ~Some~ of us have done it on more than one occasion...
(oops!) so don't feel too bad!

Difference between a mistake and a f**k-up?  You ~learn~ from a mistake.  Also
known as an error.  The ~other~ occurance, seems to be the stupid goofs that 
you
repeat often, like driving to work on the ~same~ busy street, when you could go
one block out of your way and get there two hours sooner...  or hitting the
snooze button for two hours... ~every~ morning....  (That's me!)  :)  Congrats
on finally getting a cranky car!  :)

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 23:24:21 -0500
From: Shang <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Speedo drive gear

Does anyone know the correct number of teeth/color of the speedo gear
for an '86-'87 442 with a 2004R and 3.73?


Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 00:32:16 EDT
From: <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Mission Fast Street Car Impossible

In a message dated 8/26/98 11:58:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu writes:

<< Shoot! If you're going to waste all that money on the cheater juice, why
 not just save up and buy that Paxton for Q-jetted GM's? Get some J heads
 with big valves an slap a 10 lbs of boost on her. Then, she'll move! >>

i sure would like a supercharger, but you do have to build the engine up
pretty stout for both nitrous and the blowers.  so add in $2500 or so for a
built 455.  now, blower or nitrous....  well, paxton superchargers run about
$2000 flat i think, and the 200hp or so nitrous kits are what, about $350?
personally, i would take the blower just because im lazy and wouldnt want to
get my nitrous bottle refilled.  if you just race the car on weekends tho,
nitrous is definately the way to go.  well, thats the way i see it, anyways,
not that it matters.....:-)
jeremy

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1450
*********************************
