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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1448


oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, August 26 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1448



Re: tearin it down
Re: JWO - More Questions than Answers
Re: Don't re-gap spark plugs???
Re: A couple questions for the folks in Olds land
Tie Rod End Color
Re: UPDATE aluminum heads!
Re: '71 Cutlass wiring
Re: 72 Gas Cap & antique plates
Re: UPDATE aluminum heads!
What is wrong with V6 3.8? Was:(Re: A couple questions for the folks in Olds
land) Re: A couple questions for the folks in Olds land Re: What is wrong with
V6 3.8? Was:(Re: A couple questions for the  folks in Olds land) Proportioning
Valves Revisited... Re: Tie Rod End Color Re: Sparkplug Wires Re: 72 Gas Cap &
antique plates Hurricane Message Re: JWO - More Questions than Answers Re: Hood
Pin Stuck Re: UPDATE aluminum heads! F/S: 69 F-85 Coupe Need Parts List again
Re: JWO - More Questions than Answers SS1's For Sale Re: 72 Gas Cap Re: parking
pass.... Re: Compression from Flat-Tops was  Pistons questi Re: UPDATE aluminum
heads! Re: Compression from Flat-Tops - 1/8 mile NOT 1/4 Re: IGNITION H*LP Re:
[Fwd: Re: Restorable 1968 442 for sale!!] Re: Compression Issues - "That guy
with the other 455" Engine Re: JWO - More Questions than Answers Re: What is
wrong with V6 3.8? Was:(Re: A couple questions for the  folks in Olds land) Re:
Searching - by the Coasters parts places, no start problem (one more time)
timing question Re: Got a good question contd. Re: Compression from Flat-Tops
was  Pistons question Tubular lower control arms starter problems, please h*lp
Re: Compression from Flat-Tops was  Pistons questi Re: Hurricane Message Re:
Hurricane Message Re: Hurricane Message Re: 72 gas cap Olds drag pictures Re:
starter problems, please h*lp Re: Don't re-gap spark plugs?? parts for 83 Help
with aggressive handling performance on a 71 Cutlass S RE: starter problems,
please h*lp Re: starter problems, please h*lp Re: What is wrong with V6 3.8?
Was:(Re: A couple questions for the folks in O... Re: parts places, no start
problem (one more time) PLEASE FORWARD Re: Re: Don't re-gap spark plugs?? Re:
Compression from Flat-Tops was  Pistons questi Re: UPDATE aluminum heads! Re:
Got a good question contd. 1986 442 For Sale in Michigan Re: More on Illinois
Emissions Tests Starter "issue"

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 16:03:10 -0700
From: Jim Bauman <jbauman@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: tearin it down

>One thing I noticed however, each piston has two notched
>on the top at the front of the piston. It almost looks like a place to put a
>cigarette :-). I'm curious, does anyone know the purpose of these notches?

On the 425, the notch indicates the side of the piston that faces
the front of the engine. Maybe the same?

Jim Bauman

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 19:15:43 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: JWO - More Questions than Answers

This thread is months old, and still no explanations.  It's not a matter of
inquiring minds wanting to know, it's not a matter of what did the president
know and when did he know it.  It is, however, the sudden resignation of a
pillar of a large organization.  The membership has an absolute right to
answers, and they are overdue.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 19:23:40 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Don't re-gap spark plugs???

Seriously, I'd consider NOT using them at all.  My car ran like trash, too.
I spent WAY too much money trying to get it to run nice with the Rapidfires.
Until I put the AC's back in to "fix" it.  Just put in the R46SX Delco plugs
and you're good to go.

Just my anti-"gimmick spark plug" opinion...

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Angel Castrodad <angleki@prtc.net>
To: Oldsmobile List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 6:31 PM
Subject: Re: Don't re-gap spark plugs???


>Any other suggestions???
>
>TIA
>
>Angel Castrodad
>angleki@prtc.net
>'86 442-----> 307 H.O. (5A), TH-350 (not my fault,previous owner), 3.73
>rear......Ooooh, T-tops !!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 19:26:57 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: A couple questions for the folks in Olds land

What about roof options on the '84?  And what engine does it have?  It might
very well make sense to start with the '84 as a base car, like you
mentioned, unless it has a something like the 3.8-liter V6 with a million
miles on it, etc.

Oh, and welcome to the list.  :-)  It's truly a great forum for us Olds
fans.

Jason Adcock
1984 Cutlass Calais Coupe
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Brain <jim_brain@csgsystems.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 6:52 PM
Subject: A couple questions for the folks in Olds land


>You see the dilemna.   Any people who've been in this situation?   Is there
>some hope for my car I haven't noticed?  Body shop gave my 1500.00 estimate
>to paint my 79, not including top/headliner/bumpers/interior.  I got
$500.00
>to paint the 84.
>
>Jim Brain

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 19:28:34 -0400
From: Kevin Hoopingarner <khooping@bright.net>
Subject: Tie Rod End Color

'70 442 Tie Rod Ends and sleeve color?  Should these be painted spray
gray (original cast) or should they be chassis black??

TIA

Kevin Hoopingarner
'70 Olds 442 W-30
Findlay OH.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 16:54:06 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: UPDATE aluminum heads!

> running.  However, I don't see how RPMs can drop from 3500 to 2900 with the
> mods you've done.  RPMs at a given MPH have nothing to do with ignition,
> rockers, heads, etc and everything to do with rear end ratio, tire height, 
and
> other gears.  What gives?
>

To a point it does. My engine is more efficient. I don't have to press the gass
to give me the output to do 85. Now my engine can run 85 mph at a lower rpm
because it puts out more power and does so more efficiently. Make sense? 
Atleast
that's my explanation for the awesome changes I have encountered.

ben

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 20:04:06 -0400
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Re: '71 Cutlass wiring

Not sure about the original tranny question.  I would say so.  I know that
mine has been TH350 from the start, and has only the green wire, which goes
to a single round connector post on the tranny.

The TH400 model would also have a little microswitch under the gas pedal,
which closes when the pedal is down.  For the TH350, you have a second cable
there, instead.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Thomas P. Smith <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 24, 1998 11:29 PM
Subject: Re: '71 Cutlass wiring


>Thanks for the reply.  You said "downshift solenoid."  Are you telling me
this
>car originally had a TH 400 tranny?!
>
>If so, is that they way the TH 400's were wired when the TCS was utilized;
both
>wires leading to a single, two-conductor plug which plugged into a single
>location on the transmission?
>
>My interest is really charged now!
>
>Thomas P. Smith
>
>1971 Cutlass S 350
>
>Andersons wrote:
>
>> '71 A body wiring, from my chassis manual:
>>
>> Black with orange stripe- 12V feed to downshift solenoid.  Solenoid
provides
>> its own ground.
>>
>> Dark green (plugs into green w/double white stripe at engine/dash
>> connector)- TCS emission switch ground.
>>
>> Neither one really needed for your setup, but remember they are powered
and
>> can blow fuses if allowed to get skinned/ crushed.
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Thomas P. Smith <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>> Date: Monday, August 24, 1998 9:01 PM
>> Subject: '71 Cutlass wiring
>>
>> >Hi,
>> >
>> >I have a nagging question I sure hope someone can help me with.  I have
>> >a 1971 Cutlass S, 350 CID engine, and TH350 trans.  I'm the guy who
>> >asked a while back if I did the right thing by changing from a 2 bbl to
>> >a 4 bbl.  So, now you also know the car was originally a 2 bbl.  Anyway,
>> >I have this plug hanging down by my bellhousing on the driver's side.
>> >There are two wires leading to this plug.  One is black with an orange
>> >stripe and the other is green with a white stripe.  What does this plug
>> >go to?  The transmission is not original--it was replaced years before I
>> >got the car.  When I originally discovered this "mystery plug" I did a
>> >little checking and assumed it was for the transmission controlled spark
>> >system.  However, there is no place on my current trans to plug it into,
>> >so I also assumed the guy who replaced the tranny must not have
>> >installed the correct year.  Are my assumptions correct?  Enlighten me,
>> >please.  Any details are appreciated.
>> >
>> >Thanks much,
>> >
>> >Thomas P. Smith
>> >1971 Cutlass S 350
>> >
>> >
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 20:20:15 EDT
From: <RAC5419@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 72 Gas Cap & antique plates

Be careful about putting antique plates on a car in Illinois. Yes, after 25
years it is eligible and you pay less for insurance and license plates.
But.... you are only "allowed" to drive to shows, gas stations and your
mechanic. You may also get a break on passing the emission test. Check with
your insurance agent for more details. If he's any good he will give you all
the details. As far as I'm concerned I'll pay more for insurance and plates so
big brother can't tell me where and when I can drive my 442.

Dick Compton
1972 442 convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 17:34:02 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: UPDATE aluminum heads!

At 11:50 AM 8/25/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Here is the scoop. I installed my aluminum heads. Ordered my full roller
>rockers, got my monsterous pushrods and got the whole assembly running!
>This thing is got some more pep behind it now! It was real strong, but
>now it's even stronger! I knew the aluminum heads would be awesome, but
>this awesome... The car has a new exhaust note and is louder than I
>imagined it... Economy wise here is how I was at stock. I ran about 3500
>rpm at 85 mph. I have 3.08 rear with a TH-400. Well, I've made my mods:
>Edelbrock aluminum heads (right out of the box), Full roller rockers,
>headman Headers, Edelbrock performer intake and performer 750 Q-jet
>carb. MSD ignition. NOW HERE IS THE KICKER!!! Yesterday just cruising
>along I was at about 2900 rpm at 85!!!!!

 I think that MSD ignition it telling the tach a false RPM.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 20:38:17 -0400
From: Shawn <shawno22@erols.com>
Subject: What is wrong with V6 3.8? Was:(Re: A couple questions for the folks 
in
Olds land)

>What about roof options on the '84?  And what engine does it have?  It might
>very well make sense to start with the '84 as a base car, like you
>mentioned, unless it has a something like the 3.8-liter V6 with a million
>miles on it, etc.

I have a 1984 Cutlass Supreme with a 3.8 V6 that was installed right after
I bought the car.  I am not a mechanic and I was not looking for a
screamer, so what is wrong with the 3.8 V6???

Shawn



>
>Oh, and welcome to the list.  :-)  It's truly a great forum for us Olds
>fans.
>
>Jason Adcock
>1984 Cutlass Calais Coupe
>mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
>http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jim Brain <jim_brain@csgsystems.com>
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 6:52 PM
>Subject: A couple questions for the folks in Olds land
>
>
>>You see the dilemna.   Any people who've been in this situation?   Is there
>>some hope for my car I haven't noticed?  Body shop gave my 1500.00 estimate
>>to paint my 79, not including top/headliner/bumpers/interior.  I got
>$500.00
>>to paint the 84.
>>
>>Jim Brain
>
Software Support
Computer Sales & Service For Less
Shawn McCollum
(609) 764-6572
shawno22@erols.com
"Why Pay More For Your Computer Needs?"
"Cyberspace & You Don't Have To Be Worlds Away"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 19:47:21 -0500
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: Re: A couple questions for the folks in Olds land

Jim Brain wrote:
	
	My 79 needs an engine and I have a line on a 84 in great
condition for
	$1800.  Suggestions on whether to restore mine or move to the
84?

	<snip> of vehicle description details...

	Jim, it will probably be difficult to find the parts you need
for your '79.  I can understand the sentimental value of it, since it
was your high school car, but you might be in better shape financially
to go with the '84.  (Unless, as Jason Adcock pointed out, it has a V-6
with a million miles on it...)  The '84 you described sounds like less
of a headache.

	Just my $.02

	BTW, welcome to the list!  :-)

	Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
	Columbus, MS         1987 442

	http://www.442.com/newman.html
	http://www.442.com/newmantape.html

	

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 17:48:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: JM <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: What is wrong with V6 3.8? Was:(Re: A couple questions for the
folks in Olds land)

- ---Shawn <shawno22@erols.com> wrote:
 unless it has a something like the 3.8-liter V6 with a million
> >miles on it, etc.
>
> I have a 1984 Cutlass Supreme with a 3.8 V6 that was installed right
after
> I bought the car.  I am not a mechanic and I was not looking for a
> screamer, so what is wrong with the 3.8 V6???


- ---Actually nothing wrong with them,except lack of power---BOTOH mine
lasted 165,000 mi. and ran alright till the bitter end....actually
still runs but knocks like a stormtrooper at the backdoor!!!Not to
mention,if you ever change a V-6 ,to a V-6,It'll be the last time you
do it~~:)V-8 actually easier to install AND tune-up.
==
John McJunkin
mailto:super442@yahoo.com           ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass-- http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
frog442's 84-- http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 20:53:03 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Proportioning Valves Revisited...

Ok.

I took the prop. valve information I got here the other week and gave it
to my favorite GM parts guy.  He researched it and here's what he told
me:

I can use the non-disc valve for a disc brake conversion...

so, you can guess that he's not my favorite GM parts guy any more,
'cause I know that's not right.

So I decided to get out my assembly manual and see what it said about
these valves.  It lists three different "Distributor & Switch"
assemblies:

1234389
409880 - (option)
1234387 - (option)

and nine different "Brake Combination Valve" assemblies:

1236004 - (Station wagon only)(code "KX")
1236005 - (Option station wagon)(code "BX")
5471480 - (Option station wagon)(code "DX")
1236002 - (35JL2 only)(code "BS")
5471483 - (option 35JL2)(code "DS")
1240647 - (option 35JL2)(code "KS")
1240996 - (35W30 only)(code "KV")
1237944 - (option 35W30)(code "BV")
5472655 - (option 35W30)(code "DV")

So there must be a difference between the W30 and non-W30 valves.  And
why all these "options".  Anybody know what the options are?

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 21:52:30 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Tie Rod End Color

Kevin, on my '68 (still likely the originals) they are unpainted. Not
exactly a cast gray, a little brighter, more like zinc or cadmium plated
at one time, now weathered.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 17:53:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: JM <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Sparkplug Wires

- ---"Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com> wrote:
>
> I was thinking about buying some 8.8 mm wires and wanted to get a
response
> from the people of Oldsmobile fires. Is there a big difference
between 8 mm
> wires and 8.8 mm wires?
>
> Also has anyone tried the Spitfire wires yet?

- ---Can't comment on Splitfire,but TAYLOR wires are nice,they don't
"bake" to the plug,easy to keep clean,and com in LOTS of cool
colors...hehe...can't wait till I get the one's for the new
motor...PURPLE!!!:-)
==
John McJunkin
mailto:super442@yahoo.com           ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass-- http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
frog442's 84-- http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 21:04:47 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: 72 Gas Cap & antique plates

QWe have the same law in Ohio and I don't know anyone that ever got
pulled over to ask where they are going. I think the cops have better
things to do.
Just MHO.

Mark Hahn
75D88RC

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 21:02:24 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Hurricane Message

To all,

        I may not be able to repond after tomorrow for a few days. We are
bracing for "Bonnie" to arrive tomorrow evening in Virginia Beach. We
haven't headed to high ground yet but may have to. I will get back with
everyone as soon as possible.

Thanks
Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 21:03:53 EDT
From: <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: Re: JWO - More Questions than Answers

peter   what are you refering to....
what are all of the rhimes  about

the resignation of the N/L editor????

jeff

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 21:13:28 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Hood Pin Stuck

RC Hellebuyck wrote:
>
> >On my 72 442 Conv't the drivers-side hood pin will not release. I tried to
> >turn it counter-clockwise and the pin will turn but I can't open my hood
> >because it will not realease.>
>
> This same thing happened to a guy I know.  He was able to reach the hood pin
> by taking out his headlight assembly.  Kinda-of-a-pain-in-the-ass, but it
> sure is better than the crowbar method.  8>o

Happened to me last year and that's exactly what I did.  I took out the
headlight and was just able to work my arm in.  Since the hood could pop
open an inch or so, I was able to see what I was doing.  A fairly hefty
set of needle nose pliers is what ultimately worked at moving the pin.
The process probably took me about half an hour.  I was about to give up
and try to remove the two bolts holding the bracket when I got it.

- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 21:11:58 EDT
From: <Mikeytvb@aol.com>
Subject: Re: UPDATE aluminum heads!

rpm's would change if the total weight changed.  this would allow the tranny
to run closer to 1:1 in 3rd gear.
(may not be correct, but was worth a try)

mikeytvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 21:28:53 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: F/S: 69 F-85 Coupe

Hey all

        I have a really nice 69 F-85 Club Coupe for sale. Here's the 
specifics.

Plain Jane 2 door club coupe F-85, built in Oshawa Canada
Gold/Gold Tu-tone (painted roof)
Gold bench interior (mint), with carpet (that's an option on this car)
74,000 orig miles
350 4 bbl. dual exhaust
TH350 Column shift
12 Bolt "C" rear 2.78:1 gears
Pwr Steering
Pwr Drum brakes
AM radio
Dog Dish hubcaps
Mint chrome
75-80% orig. paint
This car is a extremely clean local car bought new at HOFF Oldsmobile. It
would hold it's own in a non restored class. Not a perfect car, but
unbelievably clean and original. There is NO rust ever in this car. Paint is
starting to get weak. Drives like a new car. I'm asking $4000.00 OBO for it.

Jim Chermack
Virginia Beach, VA
(757)474-0869
67 442 W-30 Track-Pac
66 442 W-30
66 442 L-69
66 442 Race Car
69 F-85 Club Coupe
98 Intrigue
99 Alero

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 21:31:18 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Need Parts List again

To anyone

        I again request a parts list from one of the list members. I had
computer problems and thought I had them licked and didn't. Ended up buying
a new computer. I appreciate an input.

Thanks
Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 21:33:20 EDT
From: <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: Re: JWO - More Questions than Answers

amen amen  i wrote and told him what a great job he did...everyone should
write



olds guy ga...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 21:39:37 EDT
From: <Cnvrt67@aol.com>
Subject: SS1's For Sale

i got a set of 4 SS1's with no caps or retainers for sale. these are the 14x6
chrome wheels. 3 have been blasted and just need the black part painted, the
other needs some cleaning up. $200 for the 4. mail me privatelty if
interested.

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible
http://members.aol.com/Cnvrt67/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 21:39:29 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 72 Gas Cap

In a message dated 98-08-25 13:43:46 EDT, you write:

<< How do I get the  "Antique Vehicle"  status anyway? >>

Karl not know.
Believe that there is a limited milage condition.
So daily driver may not qualify.

Say...
SOM's odometer cable is broken......


SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 21:40:58 EDT
From: <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: Re: parking pass....

  jim  have extra parking pass and admission for 2 people..interested? ???

when are you due to arrive  in charlotte..
what spot do you have...jeff..

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 21:57:09 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: Compression from Flat-Tops was  Pistons questi

Ed Binnix wrote:
>
> Running 8's in a streetable car is not truly feasible. Oh, you can make it
> street legal. But to actually drive it around town, you would find it
> exhilarating at first, then annoying after the initial novelty wore off.
> Overheating engine, slipping torque converter, radical 1500 RPM idle, loud
> exhaust, NO bottom end power, racing gas ($3.50-$5.50 per gallon), no gas
> mileage, and a high revving engine all adds up to a pain in the butt on the
> street. It takes a really hot car to get into the 9's much more so the 8's.
> Of course, I'm assuming that you're talking about the quarter mile and not
> the eighth mile. 8's in the eighth mile are easily achieved. Simply my
> observant opinion.

I am talking about the 1/8 mile, not the 1/4.  I wouldn't expect to be
able to drive an 8 sec 1/4 car home...  <G>   I am looking for low 8's,
which I believe can be achieved, as you mentioned, easily...  But
there's that, and why not, high 7's...  <G>

- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 21:56:25 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: UPDATE aluminum heads!

In a message dated 98-08-25 19:52:19 EDT, you write:

<< I don't have to press the gass to give me the output to do 85.  >>

You IDLE at 85 mph?

I gotta get those heads!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 22:02:28 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: Compression from Flat-Tops - 1/8 mile NOT 1/4

Peter Landowski wrote:
>
> That's very true, there is no such thing as an 8 second street car.
> Recently this topic has been really starting to pee me off. This is not
> aimed at you, but countless others who claim that they have a 10 second/9
> second/ 11 second strret car. Most are Mustang goofs. They think if they
> put on flowmasters and a monster tach on the dash, the car is a 9-11 second
> car. Well the sad part is that the car is nothing more than maybe a 15 high
> 14 second car. I always hear them talking at the car show places"Yeah this
> thing runs 10's, no spray". It's all BS.

Again, I am not trying to get 8's in the 1/4 and drive home at the end
of the night...

> The part I love is that when theses guys go to the track and run 15's, they
> will make up excuses "Oh I need to tune my car up". They can't comprehend
> that there car is slow and can't face reality.

Shoot, I run 11.6's on the 1/8 NOT THE QUARTER, and not ashamed to say,
"It's slow, but consistant" or my latest "I may be slow, but you picked
to race against a stock 307 lo-po with wire wheel covers......."
hahahhahaha..

It's all in fun, and no rebuttal intended...

> Anyway off my soapbox. You can't have a 8 second/9second/10 second "street
> car" and drive it readily on the street.

The original message which I wrote had stated towards the top that I was
racing on the 1/8 track...  If not I appologize for the confusion.
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 22:03:46 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: IGNITION H*LP

In a message dated 98-08-25 14:49:42 EDT, you write:

<< I have a good 1000 amp battery, mounted in my trunk with 2 guage cable
running to it. A new alternator, solid state regulator, ignition switch and
others. Somewhere in my electrical loop I am having a problem getting enough
voltage to the starter. If I can get the solenoid to function I get just a
chattering at the start strains to
 turn the engine over....  >>

I just had that problem...battery was leaking.
Voltage was borderline, so enough to pop pinion, but not enough to hold it
out.
Test your batt for voltage.
And you might want to peek under and ensure pinion not caught in flywheel.
(Prolly not but that was part of my problem)

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 22:04:30 EDT
From: KJesk@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Re: Restorable 1968 442 for sale!!]

Just what kind of shape is it in?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 22:08:55 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: Compression Issues - "That guy with the other 455"

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:

> On the other hand, if you dream of beating out "the guy with the 455" at the
> track, then......
>
> Well, just have your credit card handy.

I wouldn't even try...  I know he's got $6000 tied up in the motor
alone.  Pop the hood, and see "Mondello" from top to bottom.  Reciepts
for every little thing...  Not to mention the other $2000 in the tranny,
and the heads from Mondello (cha ching).  I wanna go a little slower
than the "roll cage" barrier.  I don't want a cage, so I have to make it
just a little slower than that...  Our 1/8 track has a 7.50 cage limit.
I wanna run low 8's, high 7's and still have room for the occasional
good night when the weather co-operates and I come REALLY close to that
rule...  :)

- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 22:10:58 -0000
From: "Peter van der Wijngaard" <forwine@cgocable.net>
Subject: Engine

Hi All,

Thanks for the great respons on my earlier question.

I Have a '91 Cutlass Supreme 3.4 V6 and I just wondered who made this engine
and in how many other cars, brands, models it has been used. I have noro
problem gettting parts so I thought it might have been used in many other
cars. Anyone please btw the car is extremely fast:-)

Peter(simonp@cgocable.net)

A linguistics professor was lecturing to his class one day.  "In English,"
he said, "A double negative forms a positive.  In some languages, though,
such as Russian,a double negative is still a negative.  However,there is no
language wherein a double positive can form a negative."  A voice from the
back of the room piped up, "Yeah, right."

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 22:09:10 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: JWO - More Questions than Answers

I got my JWO today,also.  I was very pleased with the quality and content of
the issue.  Framed in the light of the upheaval at the Nats, the issue is
probably a triumph.  Kudos and a Well Done (Naval talk for Mission
Accomplished, the only acceptable resolution in The Corps) to those guys and
gals responsible.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 22:20:33 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: What is wrong with V6 3.8? Was:(Re: A couple questions for the
folks in Olds land)

And the 3.8 has a nasty tendency to puke rods.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: JM <super442@yahoo.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: What is wrong with V6 3.8? Was:(Re: A couple questions for the
folks in Olds land)


>
>
>
>
>
>---Shawn <shawno22@erols.com> wrote:
> unless it has a something like the 3.8-liter V6 with a million
>> >miles on it, etc.
>>
>> I have a 1984 Cutlass Supreme with a 3.8 V6 that was installed right
>after
>> I bought the car.  I am not a mechanic and I was not looking for a
>> screamer, so what is wrong with the 3.8 V6???
>
>
>---Actually nothing wrong with them,except lack of power---BOTOH mine
>lasted 165,000 mi. and ran alright till the bitter end....actually
>still runs but knocks like a stormtrooper at the backdoor!!!Not to
>mention,if you ever change a V-6 ,to a V-6,It'll be the last time you
>do it~~:)V-8 actually easier to install AND tune-up.
>==
>John McJunkin
>mailto:super442@yahoo.com           ICQ # 16956740
>TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass-- http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
>frog442's 84-- http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
>1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
>
>
>_________________________________________________________
>DO YOU YAHOO!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 22:26:32 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Searching - by the Coasters

Does anyone have an e-mail address for Rick Clemons of the Archway chapter?
TIA  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 22:09:51 -0400
From: Joe_Gut <Joe_Gut@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: parts places, no start problem (one more time)

Tried to send this last week, but wasn't able to hit the list.  Maybe
this will work?

Anyone had any experience with The Parts Place in Chicago?  They have a
lot of parts - not the lowest prices,  but a great selection.

Regarding the question a week or so ago about the SX not starting on a
intermittent basis, with no lights or other electric accessories when
the problem happens - I've had this problem on both '71 Cutlass' I've
owned.  I could temporarily fix the problem with a slap on the horn
relay.  Finally, I replaced the horn relay (this seems to control all
electric in the car) and fixed the problem both times.  Not sure if the
cleaning of the connections at the relay fixed the problem, or if the
horn relay fixed the problem, but the relay was cheap at the local parts
store.

Not fun when relay/wiring goes while driving and the car dies in its
tracks!  This happened to me...

Hope this helps (even with the delay).

Joe Gutierrez  OCA 30387  H/O 714
71 442 conv
72 H/O ht

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 22:33:21 -0400
From: Joe_Gut <Joe_Gut@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: timing question

I have two questions I hope the experts here can advise on:

After installing a Comp Cams 268 cam in my 455 '71 convt earlier this
year, I reinstalled the distributor (HEI) with full manifold vacuum.
The car ran well, but seemed a bit down on power from what I expected.
I had previously installed a curve kit in the dist with light springs,
and it had helped with the stock cam.

Tonight, just for fun, I decided to hook up the vacuum advance to ported
vacuum to see what happened.  After setting the timing to 8 deg (factory
spec, I think), the car idled too slow and seemed "flat" when revving.
However, when I cranked up the timing to (I guess) about 18 or 20
degrees (I say I guess - the mark is up about 12 o'clock and my timing
indicator stops at 12), the car runs fantastic!  No pinging on unleaded
premium, and it still starts when hot (thanks perhaps to my F*rd
solenoid and 2 gauge cables trick I learned).

On to the questions - does anyone else run this much static timing?
Seems awful high to me.  Secondly, I noticed that my timing mark seems
to jump around 2 or 3 degrees at idle.  Do you think this is caused 1)
by the lope of the engine due to the cam, combined with the light
centrifical advance springs or 2) a problem with my HEI, or 3) my cheap
timing light?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.  By the way, please don't flame me
for the F*rd solenoid trick - I got sick of waiting for the car to cool
to restart it!

Wow - two posts in one night... I feel like a regular!

Joe Gutierrez  OCA 30387  H/O 714
71 442 convt
72 H/O h/t

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 20:37:10 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Got a good question contd.

gonna check that tomorrow
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ed Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 8:26 AM
Subject: Re: Got a good question contd.


>Broken cam gear teeth? That would give those symptoms.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>
>>
>>ok what happened is this the car was going down the road under accel then
>>just died the vehicle then rolled to a stop at the point where the car
>>stopped the check eng and gen lights came on the starter cranks the
>>distributor sparks and the fuel flows this has me pretty well stumped if
it
>>cranks has spark and fuel then it should work so I checked the compression
>>it has 145# cranking this seems to me to let out anything mechanical
>(maybe)
>>the engine cranks like all the plugs are out of it
>>then it acts like someone pulled in a lot of advance it rolls over slow
for
>>abour 3 revs and then spins free again then repeats but it wont fire and
>run
>>I dont get it...kk
>>
>>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 00:08:12 EDT
From: <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Compression from Flat-Tops was  Pistons question

In a message dated 8/25/98 8:57:58 PM Central Daylight Time,
ithefunki@cchat.com writes:

> > Of course, I'm assuming that you're talking about the quarter mile and not
>  > the eighth mile. 8's in the eighth mile are easily achieved. Simply my
>  > observant opinion.
>
>  I am talking about the 1/8 mile, not the 1/4.  I wouldn't expect to be
>  able to drive an 8 sec 1/4 car home...  <G>   I am looking for low 8's,
>  which I believe can be achieved, as you mentioned, easily...  But
>  there's that, and why not, high 7's...  <G>
>
>  --
>                  - Jerry Christopher -

See now, here's a perfectly good reason why people shouldn't be jumping to
conclusions.  We had someone who mis-understood the original post (due to lack
of content, but no excuse) and started going into the "idiots, and dim-wits"
thing, and almost starting another "flame war".    Please guys, ask before
going "off the handle".

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 23:04:53 -0500
From: Shang <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Tubular lower control arms

Does anyone know of a source for replacement stock front lower control
arms or perhaps tubular replacements? I follow another A body group and
there was a discussion about lower control arm fatigue and failure. I
personally have seen a reduction in available suspension parts at the
local auto parts stores, such as AutoZone no longer stocking the A body
centerlink and idler arms. They can still get them, but in just a year
and a half they have gotten more scarce and the price has gone up. With
the prospect of nearing completion on the '70 and thinking about
starting another one, I am concerned about the availability of these
parts. I realize that this is an issue facing all restorers, but I
always felt the A bodies were "modern" enough not to suffer this problem
badly. With rear control arms and upper front control arms available, I
am just wondering if anyone has addressed the lower front control arms
yet.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 00:54:27 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: starter problems, please h*lp

I managed to tow my newly aquired 70 Cutlass S home last night. It was
supposed to run, but wouldn't turn over. All it did was "click". What
does this mean? Anyhow, after fiddling around with it for awhile, I
decided to buy a new starter. I finally got it all back together,
re-wired right and everything. Go to try the key....nothing...not even a
click this time, on a new starter!! Dash lights light up, lights turn
on, it's getting power. What do I do?
- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
         777777 33333
            77      33
Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
          77        33
         77     33333
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 20:01:53 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Compression from Flat-Tops was  Pistons questi

OTOH
I wonder if maybe instead of building an engine for the strip you could
build one more like a Winston Cup car. 358 cubic inches-650 horses. Of
course they do run mostly WOT for 500 miles at a time. Never thought
about if their setups would be more streetable.
Wadda ya think?
Just curious.

Mark Hahn
75D88RC

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 01:38:05 EDT
From: <W31Sleeper@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Hurricane Message

hang in there ....keep us posted!!!
hope your OLDS is safely stored away....
good luck!!!
Rob aka w31sleeper

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 02:06:18 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Hurricane Message

Rob (aka. w31sleeper)

        I will keep everyone abreast as best I can. I do have 2 Olds that
have to weather it out outside. They are the 98 Intrigue and the 99 Alero.
At least those can be replaced. The W-30's are tucked away in a brick
garage. Thanks for your comments.

Jim Chermack

At 01:38 AM 8/26/1998 EDT, you wrote:
>hang in there ....keep us posted!!!
>hope your OLDS is safely stored away....
>good luck!!!
>Rob aka w31sleeper
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 23:06:14 -0700
From: "John Young" <realtorjohn@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Hurricane Message

Jim & Joan,
Good Luck, and I'm sure I speak for new and old list members, be safe...I
know being a former resident of South Carolina we are all pulling for no
damage or injury..
realtorjohn@sprynet.com
69 442 W-32
- ----------
> From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
>
>
>         I may not be able to repond after tomorrow for a few days. We are
> bracing for "Bonnie" to arrive tomorrow evening in Virginia Beach. We
> haven't headed to high ground yet but may have to. I will get back with
> everyone as soon as possible.
>
> Thanks
> Jim Chermack
> C&M Classic Parts

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 02:17:51 -0400
From: Kyle Roe <karoe@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: 72 gas cap

"Antique" vehicle status/ collector car status/ whatever you want to call it
is, in Colorado, any vehicle 20+ years old, regardless of condition, mileage,
or how often you drive it. There are certain categories for emissions as well
and since we do have the brown cloud, they're reasonably serious. I dont know
exact categories, but I do know that they just give my '70 "the once over"  not
too sure they would know what was supposed to be there or not anyway, and the
car is subjected to a 'sniffer' test, rather than dumping the exhaust in a
"sealed" collection unit.
The '70 is rebuilt 455, +.030, doesnt run the "proper air cleaner hose
configuration", and passes with flying colors, and I do mean flying as all
those boys watch me smoke 'n' roast away from the station. Gotta love it, watch
your neck.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 02:29:15 -0400
From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: Olds drag pictures

Hey all,

Well, as you may or may not know, I tried my hand at making an
Olds-related screen saver a bit ago.  I came out fairly decent, however
I don't have access to it  Anyway, there was a request. from whom I'm
not sure, for an Olds drag racing screen saver.  So, with that said
please email any and all pictures you have of any Olds vehicle doing a
burnout or beating some less endowed vehicles at the line.  Please send
these pics to the following address:        dgerow@student.stonehill.edu

DO NOT post them to the list.  As soon as I get a fair amount, I will
compile and distribute the ss to y'all.  Thanks alot

Daniel R. Gerow
'69 4-4-2 (ie my dust collector)

- --
- ---------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
WSHL General Manager
http://www.stonehill.edu/wshl
http://www.stonehill.edu/~dgerow
- ---------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 04:56:17 EDT
From: <KWhite5590@aol.com>
Subject: Re: starter problems, please h*lp

Matt.

 JUst because your lights work doesn,t mean that your battery has enough
power to crank the starter.I would start at the battery when you hear
clicking.

Kevin White
83 Cutlass Supreme
FE3X clone

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 05:19:24 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: Don't re-gap spark plugs??

Chad,

Its been my experience that the ignition system can be finicky.You should
never run plugs right out of the box.Always check the gap before installing
the plugs.They might be close but I have never found them to be right on
money.
I have no experience with the rapid-fires,but I do with Bosch Platinums.I've
run them
in every car since they came out, with fantastic results.
I would go ahead and gap the rapid-fires for your year motor and reinstall
them.
Too small a gap doesn't allow the mixture to burn completely.It will see a
larger
flame with more gap.And if you want a few extra ponies try indexing your
plugs,
or filing the contact back to the center of the electrode.
the latter suggestion is from Myron at T.P.I. specailties in Chaska Minn.
this is my $.02

Kevin White
83 Cutlass Supreme
FE3X clone

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 06:02:51 EDT
From: <KWhite5590@aol.com>
Subject: parts for 83

To the list

 Does any one know where I can get parts for my Cutlass's Astro-roof?
 Replacement parts for It from the dealer were discontinued 2/3 years ago.
 I fell like I'm in a F-body with T-tops.
 The roof won"t seal up into it's opening.one of the drive cables is broken.
 And the outer seal could stand to be replaced also.
                                HELP PLEASE

Kevin (gettin rained on in the car) White
83Cutlass Supreme
FE3X clone










------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 00:23:53 -0000
From: "Mike Druger" <mdruger@email.msn.com>
Subject: Help with aggressive handling performance on a 71 Cutlass S

I'm looking to put some really phat tires and shiney new wheels under my '71
Olds Cutlass S to give it more precise handling.  Eventually, I will add
some performance to the 350 V8 under the hood.  But, I thought I'd work from
the ground up.  I've already replaced the rear coil springs and used "KYB
Gas Adjust shocks" with new front and rear sway bars all supplied by PST.  I
want to replace the old deteriorated rubber bushings with PST polygraphite
bushings, but replacing bushings is a little tougher than the PST video lead
me to believe.  I also could not remove the front coil springs.
Unfortunately, I think I did more damage trying to get them out, than what I
set out to repair!  So, I'm waiting to gain enough confidence to go under
the car with a chisel and break off the old rusted and frozen on bolts that
hold the front and rear control arms to the frame.  But, before I give up
and ask a real mechanic to do this, I'll spring for new wheels.  At least
the car will look somewhat respectable after I throw in the towel.

I'm looking to place wider tires and larger rims, but do not know how wide I
can go.  I checked the existing wheels and they are a meager 215/70 - 14
with a 4" offset on the rims.  I want to go to a 15"X8" wheel (4" offset)
and place at least a 255/50 - 15.  I want to keep the wheel diameter at
approx 25".  Does anyone have any suggestions on a good tire size and what
will fit without rubbing the fenders?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 07:23:06 -0500
From: "Kijowski, Stan" <SKIJOWSKI@midland.com>
Subject: RE: starter problems, please h*lp

i just put a 455 in my 72 cutlass conv.   using the original battery and
starter and mine would crank/turn real slow (kinda like trying to start the
beast in sub zero weather).    i put a new hi torque starter and a brand new
850 cca (cold cranking amps) battery in it and it starts just fine now.

> ----------
> From: 	Matt Cremean[SMTP:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Tuesday, August 25, 1998 6:54 PM
> To: 	Oldsmobile List
> Subject: 	starter problems, please h*lp
>
> I managed to tow my newly aquired 70 Cutlass S home last night. It was
> supposed to run, but wouldn't turn over. All it did was "click". What
> does this mean? Anyhow, after fiddling around with it for awhile, I
> decided to buy a new starter. I finally got it all back together,
> re-wired right and everything. Go to try the key....nothing...not even a
> click this time, on a new starter!! Dash lights light up, lights turn
> on, it's getting power. What do I do?
> --
> *************
> Matt Cremean
> mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
>          777777 33333
>             77      33
> Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
>           77        33
>          77     33333
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
> **************************************************
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 08:49:08 -0400
From: Joseph Gambaccini <jgambaccini@ci.richmond.va.us>
Subject: Re: starter problems, please h*lp

stan

how much did that "hi tork start-her" run ya and from where did you get
it???  i've had several starters in my 72/455 including the $89
"premium" model from NAPA and they do the job for a few months then crap
out.  i think the solenoid crys for mercy when that engine warms up on a
nice 90-100 degree day here in richmond.

joe g


Kijowski, Stan wrote:
>
> i just put a 455 in my 72 cutlass conv.   using the original battery and
> starter and mine would crank/turn real slow (kinda like trying to start the
> beast in sub zero weather).    i put a new hi torque starter and a brand new
> 850 cca (cold cranking amps) battery in it and it starts just fine now.
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 08:59:13 EDT
From: <RICH6986@aol.com>
Subject: Re: What is wrong with V6 3.8? Was:(Re: A couple questions for the
folks in O...

there is nothing wrong w/ the v-6 3.8 my 85 cutlass has the V-6 in it and it
has some power and it wont die it has almost 180,000 miles on it still runs
pefectexcept if I beat on it it burns oil like nothing and about the power I
was on the highway and two guys with rustangs tried to race the beast needless
to say one of the rustangs when I looked in my rearview mirror pulled over on
the side of the road with a ton of smoke coming out of the engine and the
other one when the neddle disappeared on my speedometer so did the rustang I
like the V-6 but i am going to put a 350 rocket in the 82 cutlass i just got.

just my .02 cents
 Rich
81,82,85 cutlass supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 08:59:29 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: parts places, no start problem (one more time)

Anyone had any experience with The Parts Place in Chicago?  They have a
lot of parts - not the lowest prices,  but a great selection.
________________

Funny you should ask, as I just received an order from them.  I responded
to an ad in Hemmings for a four speed adapter kit for the 70-72 consoles.
Even though my W-30 is a 4 spd, the plastic adapter is broken and I needed
new boots anyway.  The adapter arrived within a few days of the order.  My
big disappointment with the item mainly concerns the fact that I
specifically asked on the phone when I placed the order if the adapter kit
contained both the inner and outer shifter boots and I was told that it
did.  When the item arrived, it only came with the outer boot, though when
I checked their catalog for a description of the item, it clearly stated
that only the outer boot was included (I did not have a catalog when I
ordered).  Since they sent me what they advertise, I really can't complain,
other than to say that I'm disappointed that their phone sales person
didn't know the product very well.

As for the quality, it was so-so.  First, I suspect that there's only one
manufacturer of the repo  four speed adapters, so I suspect that this is
not a reflection on The Parts Place but on the manufacturer.  The plastic
adapter had a lot of moulding flash that will need to be removed in order
for the item to look like the original.  In addition, the hard plastic
appears to be "shinier" than the original (possibly because the original is
almost 30 years old, but the new part looks like it was drenched in Armor
All) and of a different type of plastic.  The rubber boot looks OK, but the
mold lines at the small end (where the shifter handle exits) are not even
(again, I suspect that there is only one manufacturer for this item and all
vendors are selling the same item).  The other thing that was funny is that
the adapter was covered in a thick layer of dust, as if this item had been
sitting unprotected on a shelf for a very long time.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 09:04:48 -0400
From: RAY.COSTANZO@firstunion.com
Subject: PLEASE FORWARD

TO: Softswitch.OAS
CC:
FROM: RAY.COSTANZO@TAOFUN1
SUBJECT:  PLEASE FORWARD

   I am trying to figure out a new moronic email system.  Could anyone
    please forward any olds message they've got lying around from the
   past.  Since I have a translator email system, it's creating many p
   roblems.  Thanky'all.

   Ray Costanzo
   87 409 Cutlass













































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Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 09:20:46 EDT
From: <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Don't re-gap spark plugs??

In a message dated 8/26/98, 3:40:10 AM, oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca writes:
<<Its been my experience that the ignition system can be finicky.You should
never run plugs right out of the box.Always check the gap before installing
the plugs.They might be close but I have never found them to be right on
money.
I have no experience with the rapid-fires,but I do with Bosch Platinums.I've
run them
in every car since they came out, with fantastic results.
I would go ahead and gap the rapid-fires for your year motor and reinstall
them.
Too small a gap doesn't allow the mixture to burn completely.It will see a
larger
flame with more gap.And if you want a few extra ponies try indexing your
plugs,
or filing the contact back to the center of the electrode.
the latter suggestion is from Myron at T.P.I. specailties in Chaska Minn.
this is my $.02>>
I tried those bosch platinums and i burned the electrode up into the ceramic
within one week. I couldnt believe it. Using MSD and a super coil. I use accel
plugs now. My understanding is ford uses a higer voltage ignition system. i
used  motorsport and had no problems with them either. Also if you want to max
the effeciency of your sparkplugs try indexing your plugs  summit sells a kit
to do this. I also tried those split fires  They fouled out on my car and a
friends dont waste your money.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 09:23:55 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Compression from Flat-Tops was  Pistons questi

Well, and they also change their engines every 500 miles!  I'd say that it
wouldn't be all that streetable, especially if the motor doesn't last more
than a few months at a time because of the insane build specs.

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 1:18 AM
Subject: Re: Compression from Flat-Tops was Pistons questi


>OTOH
>I wonder if maybe instead of building an engine for the strip you could
>build one more like a Winston Cup car. 358 cubic inches-650 horses. Of
>course they do run mostly WOT for 500 miles at a time. Never thought
>about if their setups would be more streetable.
>Wadda ya think?
>Just curious.
>
>Mark Hahn
>75D88RC

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 09:37:32 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: UPDATE aluminum heads!

>To a point it does. My engine is more efficient. I don't have to press the
>gass to
>give me the output to do 85. Now my engine can run 85 mph at a lower rpm

Again, efficiency has nothing to do with RPM at a given MPH.  Efficiency will
tell you how much energy you're consuming to get to that speed, and how much
energy you're consuming to sustain that speed, but by itself has no fixed
relationship with RPMs.

An earlier post mentioned the torque converter.  Maybe the convertor was
slipping before at 3500 RPM and 85 MPH, and now with the revised torque curve
"locks up" at 2900 MPH and 85 MPH?  I guess that would mean you're using a very
high stall convertor?

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 06:34:12 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Got a good question contd.

> the engine cranks like all the plugs are out of it
> then it acts like someone pulled in a lot of advance it rolls
> over slow for abour 3 revs and then spins free again then
> repeats but it wont fire and run I dont get it...kk

Let me get one more guess in: Slipped timing chain. Timing is
so out of whack that the engine usually doesn't fire, but when
it does, it's on the compression stroke and basically fights
back against the starter, which is when you get that slow cranking.

If it's got fuel and it's got spark, it has all the basics, so as
someone else suggested, put a timing light on it and see when it's
firing the cylinders.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 09:39:28 -0400
From: tgstoner@umich.edu
Subject: 1986 442 For Sale in Michigan

I saw the following '86 442 sitting in Brooklyn, Michigan a couple of weeks
ago, when traveling to the NASCAR races at Michigan Speedway.  The usual
disclaimers apply.

1986 Oldsmobile 442.  Black with gold stripes and a grey interior.  50,030
miles showing on odometer.  Air, Tilt, Cruise.  Sign said "never in
winter".  Asking $8,200 or best offer.  (517) 431-4806.

This car appeared to be in pretty good condition.  In a quick one-time walk
around, I didn't notice any scrapes or dents.  Even the chrome wheels
appeared to be in pretty good shape, although I noticed that one center cap
was starting to lose its "442" insert disc.  It has replacement tires on it
and they're Goodyear Eagle GT II's, which indicates to me that whoever owns
this car hasn't been afraid to spend money to keep it up.  When I saw it,
the car was parked in a lot on the east side of M-50, right in the town and
about mid-way between the two traffic signals.

Tom Stoner
Oldsmobile Club of America #3943
Ann Arbor, MI
tgstoner@umich.edu

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 06:43:36 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: More on Illinois Emissions Tests

> Second,  http://www.epa.state.il.us/vim/faq.html. This is the
> Illinois EPA website.  The link I've put here goes right to the
> vehicle emissions FAQ page.

Actually that should be

http://www.epa.state.il.us/air/vim/faq.html

...but don't hold your breath; it is a _very_ buggy website -- some
of their own links are wrong and go nowhere -- and in fact I could
only read this page via View Source on Netscape 3.01 Gold; the
display just came up white. Sigh... Our taxes at work.  :-)

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 07:44:52 -0600
From: Dave Orth <Dave@profitsystems.net>
Subject: Starter "issue"

This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

- ------ =_NextPart_001_01BDD0F7.B3D39C50
Content-Type: text/plain

My 84 H/O is acting up.
The starter quit working a couple of weeks ago - turn the key and nothing -
SO I replaced the solenoid, worked great for two days.

Went out to go to work, turned the key and the starter did its normal thing,
BUT when I let go of the key the starter was still running - turned the key
off - threw the keys out of the window - begged - cried - called it Momma  -
starter was still running, ungrateful piece of ...
Ended up disconnecting the battery to stop the starter (glad the motor
didn't start).
SO, I replaced the solenoid AGAIN - and STILL have a starter running after
you move the key out of the "start" position.
My next step was to check the Neutral safety switch, I popped it off the
column, connected the battery and turned the key - same thing, so I
"started" (no pun intended) moving the switch to different positions - no
change (still have a starter going all of the time, after moving the key to
"start".

FINALLY, my question is:  Could the neutral safety switch be causing this?
OR  If not what could it be?

I'm anxious to get this repaired as soon as I can because my in-laws are
coming down in a couple of weeks and driving their '84 H/O, and we want to
go to the Saturday night park/cruise, here in Colorado Springs, with both
H/O's and my '65 Mustang (don't hold it against me).

EXTRA QUESTION:  What base timing specs should I use on a '71 350 that is
going to replace the not-original engine in my H/O, I am going to use the
computer and carb but not the AIR pump.  Any other suggestions also
appreciated!

Thanks,

PROFITsystems, Inc.


Dave Orth
Systems Administrator

1-800-888-5565
(719) 578-9506 (fax)
E-mail: dave@profitsystems.net
Web Site:  www.profitsystems.net


- ------ =_NextPart_001_01BDD0F7.B3D39C50
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dus-ascii">
<META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version =
5.0.1460.9">
<TITLE>Starter &quot;issue&quot;</TITLE>
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<BODY>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Courier New">My 84 H/O is acting up.&nbsp; =
</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Courier New">The starter quit working a =
couple of weeks ago - turn the key and nothing - SO I replaced the =
solenoid, worked great for two days.&nbsp; </FONT></P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Courier New">Went out to go to work, turned =
the key and the starter did its normal thing, BUT when I let go of the =
key the starter was still running - turned the key off - threw the keys =
out of the window - begged - cried - called it Momma&nbsp; - starter =
was still running, ungrateful piece of ...&nbsp; </FONT></P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Courier New">Ended up disconnecting the =
battery to stop the starter (glad the motor didn't start).&nbsp; =
</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Courier New">SO, I replaced the solenoid =
AGAIN - and STILL have a starter running after you move the key out of =
the &quot;start&quot; position.&nbsp; </FONT></P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Courier New">My next step was to check the =
Neutral safety switch, I popped it off the column, connected the =
battery and turned the key - same thing, so I &quot;started&quot; (no =
pun intended) moving the switch to different positions - no change =
(still have a starter going all of the time, after moving the key to =
&quot;start&quot;.&nbsp; </FONT></P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Courier New">FINALLY, my question is:&nbsp; =
Could the neutral safety switch be causing this? OR&nbsp; If not what =
could it be?</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Courier New">I'm anxious to get this repaired =
as soon as I can because my in-laws are coming down in a couple of =
weeks and driving their '84 H/O, and we want to go to the Saturday =
night park/cruise, here in Colorado Springs, with both H/O's and my '65 =
Mustang (don't hold it against me).</FONT></P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Courier New">EXTRA QUESTION:&nbsp; What base =
timing specs should I use on a '71 350 that is going to replace the =
not-original engine in my H/O, I am going to use the computer and carb =
but not the AIR pump.&nbsp; Any other suggestions also =
appreciated!</FONT></P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Courier New">Thanks,</FONT>
</P>

<P><B><FONT COLOR=3D"#008080" FACE=3D"Tahoma">PROFIT<I>systems</I>, =
Inc.</FONT></B>
</P>
<BR>

<P><B><FONT COLOR=3D"#008080" FACE=3D"Tahoma">Dave Orth</FONT></B>
<BR><B><FONT COLOR=3D"#008080" FACE=3D"Tahoma">Systems =
Administrator</FONT></B>
</P>

<P><B><FONT COLOR=3D"#008080" FACE=3D"Tahoma">1-800-888-5565</FONT></B>
<BR><B><FONT COLOR=3D"#008080" FACE=3D"Tahoma">(719) 578-9506 =
(fax)</FONT></B>
<BR><B><FONT COLOR=3D"#008080" FACE=3D"Tahoma">E-mail:</FONT></B><B><U> =
<FONT COLOR=3D"#808080" =
FACE=3D"Tahoma">dave@profitsystems.net</FONT></U></B>
<BR><B><FONT COLOR=3D"#008080" FACE=3D"Tahoma">Web =
Site:&nbsp;</FONT><U> <FONT COLOR=3D"#808080" =
FACE=3D"Tahoma">www.profitsystems.net</FONT></U></B>
</P>

</BODY>
</HTML>
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