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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1494


oldsmobile-digest    Saturday, September 19 1998    Volume 01 : Number 1494



Re: Windshield Antennas
Re: Mallory Dual Point Problem in 69 CS
Re: engine covers
Re: T3'S
Re: found a '78 350cid cutlass
Re: found a '78 350cid cutlass
UNBOUNCE: H*LP tranny jumps between 2nd and 3rd
Sedan to Convert Frame Swap?
Re: alternator wire, snip snip
Re: Olds list opinion wanted/Matt Creeman
Re: found a '78 350cid cutlass
Re: Guage package
Re: shipping
Daughter's Olds in Flagstaff.
Intake Manifold
Re: Long Distance Hauling
Re: still overheating
CX?
Re: still overheating
Re: found a '78 350cid cutlass
Re: engine covers
Hey Olds Magnet!
shipping advice
RE: Carb Problems
Parting out Toronado
RE: Lightweight fans & hp
Re: Windshield Antennas
Re: engine covers
Re: still overheating
Re: Intake Manifold
Re: Sedan to Convert Frame Swap?
Tire and Rims question.
Re: still overheating
tranny jumps between 2nd and 3rd
[Event] 2nd ANNUAL OCC CRUISE NITE 9/19 (MD)
Re: still overheating
Re: Intake Manifold
Re: Sedan to Convert Frame Swap?
Re: Mallory Dual Point Problem in 69 CS
Re: still overheating
resident Olds GN guy
subscribe
Re: '69 Antennas
Re: found a '78 350cid cutlass
Re: dwell problem Unilite Distributor
Re: Guage package
Rumours Of My Demise Have Been.....
Re: Tire and Rims question.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 17:51:27 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Windshield Antennas

Randy,
State Farm paid 976.00 for the same thing for the 75. Think they got taken?
Cost me 50.00. Blew my mind, installer was a friend, customer is not
supposed to see total bill he said. Wow! Wonder why insurance is so high.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

- ----------
> From: RANDY A GEISEL <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Windshield Antennas
> Date: Friday, September 18, 1998 10:01 AM
>
> >if I have the antenna in the windshield.
> >or just a acase of the same windshield fitting multiple years.
> >
> >When did this option become available?
>
> I believe it was 1970.......atleast my 70 Cutlas S did.
>
> FWIW, I just had a new windshield, (tinted w/antenna) installed in my 72
> H/O.  Cost $159 included tax and they came to my house to install it.
>
> Randy

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 18:06:19 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Mallory Dual Point Problem in 69 CS

Joe wrote,
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Mallory Dual Point Problem in 69 CS
> Date: Friday, September 18, 1998 2:53 PM
>
> Ken,
>
> I'm not totally sure about the dwell spec, but I suspect that it is
> probably the usual 30 degrees of a normal V8.  The trick, however, is
that
> with a dual point distributor you must set the dwell on each set of
points
> _individually_.  The way you do this is to put a piece of cardboard
between
> the contacts of one set of points, then set the others to 30 degrees.
Swap
> the cardboard to the other set and repeat.  That's right, 30 degrees
dwell
> on each set of points when checked individually.  Note that if the number
> turns out to be something other than 30, the procedure is still the same.

Joe did not mention- the total with the cardboard out of both will read
higher then 30 degrees since the points are not 180 degrees apart, they are
offset a couple of degrees. Am NOT correcting Joe, he already knows, just
failed to mention. Thought it might confuse you if you haven't worked with
a dual point unit before.
Lou Biggs

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 19:15:59 EDT
From: SIDIALI@aol.com
Subject: Re: engine covers

In response to the tin cover under the manifold, my '68 455 Delta had it there
when I did a lifter replacement.  I guess it is a oil splash guard to keep
from caking the underside of the manifold with dried up oil, which could
retain heat.  That's my guess, atleast.
Alex
'68/'60

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 18:17:17 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: T3'S

Ron,
U.S.A Parts sells repro. for 61-67.Olds. Doesn't help you. Quad headlights
only I guess. Might want to call 1-800-872-2013.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

- ----------
> From: RGHaun@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: T3'S
> Date: Friday, September 18, 1998 3:25 PM
>
> Anyone know if new T3 headlights are still available?
> Ron Haun (rghaun@aol.com)
> 71 442 W30 Convert.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 19:43:29 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: found a '78 350cid cutlass

I'd pay 500 for it.  If it runs and is not bad shape, it's definitely
worth that much.  These 78-87(*8) Cutlasses are the build-up cars of the
future, get em cheap now, while you can.

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA
On Fri, 18 Sep 1998 00:50:30 EDT BIGJERMES@aol.com writes:
>riding down the road today i passed a black cutlass with a for sale
>sign in
>the windshield.  since i was looking for another daily driver, i
>stopped and
>took a look.  the guy who owned the car came out and started telling
>me a
>little about it, and the car seems pretty nice.  original 350 OLDS
>engine,
>TH350 tranny,  column shift, black vinyle interior, black exterior
>w/red
>pinstripes.  original car, paint and interiorwise.  the only new
>things on
>there is 4 new white letter tires, rebuilt tranny, and the guy has a
>dash
>cover to put in. when i asked the guy how much he was asking, he said
>hed take
>6 or 700 bucks.  hmm....  i wouldnt mind having this car, it runs, and
>i just
>flat out like it.  so i think ill give him an offer of around 500
>bucks, and
>ill let him decide if he really wants to get rid of it quick. what do
>you guys
>think?  good idea or bad?  how many '78 cutlasses came with an olds
>350
>engine?  i figure if i buy the car, put $500 into it, drive it for a
>year or
>so, i can maybe sell it for $800.  this will accomplish my primary
>goal, which
>is to work on my present '78 cutlass.
>tell me what ya think
>jeremy
>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 19:36:47 -0400
From: Jim Olson <jolson@remcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: found a '78 350cid cutlass

We had a '78 Cutlass w/ a 260v8 years ago. Really nice car but what a
dog. Now we have an '85 w/ t-tops and lots of goodies that I'm parting
out, and that came with a 307/200 but someone put a late 70's 350/350 in
it.

Mid size GM will always hold a special place in my heart.

Jim...

'85 Cutlass parts
'65 Skylark

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 21:05:38 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: H*LP tranny jumps between 2nd and 3rd

Can't use the "H*LP" word...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	KASOLDS@aol.com
Subject: H*LP tranny jumps between 2nd and 3rd

Well, I finally got my TH350 swapped to a TH400.  The tranny works well and
doesn't slip or anything.  However when I drive at average city speeds 30-40
the tranny seems to jump back and forth between 2nd gear and 3rd gear.  I can
accelerate from a stop and it will shift through all 3 gears just fine.  Then
once a reach driving speed I let of the gas.  This is when it seems to go back
into 2nd gear.  If I get back on the gas it will stay in 2nd for a few seconds
and then shift up to 3rd again.  I know my problem is not the electric
kickdown, because I unhooked and it still did the same thing.  Is this a
vacuum problem?  Is this bad for the tranny?  Has anyone had this problem?
H*LP PLEASE

Thanks
Keith

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 21:10:43 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Sedan to Convert Frame Swap?

I was at the Olds lover's junqueyard today and the owner mentioned that a
mutual acquaintance who has a '72 Cutlass convertible (with lotsa
problems) picked up a '72 sedan. Word is that he intends to drive it thru
the winter, then part it out and use what seems to be a solid frame in his
convertible. I assume he knows they are a different wheelbase... ;-)

That aside, am I right in thinking he is totally off base in thinking
this? Unless there is an easy way of shortening a 116" wheelbase frame to
112"... is there?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 19:51:56 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: alternator wire, snip snip

On Fri, 18 Sep 1998 07:44:39 PDT "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
writes:
>>>  the wire you cut is for the idiot light.
>>>  No sweat.
>[...]
>> Umm, several alternators ~rely~ on the idiot light to
>> excite the alternator, i.e. get it to ~start~ charging.
>
>I was kind of wondering why you felt the need to cut this
>wire in the first place...?
>
>-- Andy
>
Well you see Andy, I had this old beat up length of flex-loom lying
around on my intake, and it housed the wires for the original temp guage,
and some other unneccesary wire. (have different temp guage hookup now).
So I figured if this alt. wire was not necessary, I could get rid of that
eyesore altogether.  I've put about 50 miles on the car since, and no
problems yet.  And damn! that engine bay looks absolutely beautiful
without that loom there.  (kidding)

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 20:07:03 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Olds list opinion wanted/Matt Creeman

On Fri, 18 Sep 98 13:48:29 EDT "Matthew A. Cremean"
<creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu> writes:
>I think this list has taken us very far. It has sure helped me learn
>tons of th
>ings that I wouldn't have otherwise know. The people on this list have
>ESPECIAL
>LY helped me. I think it's a very unique learning tool, or service.
>
>
>
>---Matt Cremean
>       - working on a horrible e-mail system<---------------------get
some Juno, it kicks ass and it's totally free.  Don't need internet
access for it either!  I'll send you a disk if you need one!
>
agreed!

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 19:53:21 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: found a '78 350cid cutlass

1980 was the year someone on the list just told me the other day, or that
was at least the last year for the 350 to be produced.  I'd assume you
could get it in the Cutlass until the sad, sad end.

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

On Fri, 18 Sep 1998 07:56:17 -0700 "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)"
<mrada@catalina-inter.net> writes:
>Tony Waldner wrote:
>
>> in 1978 the only engines that were available were the 231 V6 Buick,
>the 260
>> V8 Olds, and the 305 Chevy.  The 350 Olds was only available in the
>'79 H/O
>
>Wasn't 1977 the last year of availability for the 350 Olds (aside from
>any H/O,
>442
>option)?  I believe I was told this by a service person at my local
>Olds
>dealership.
>
>--
>Chris Sparks
>68 442 SC - Frosty
>68 442 HT - Scarlet
>68 442 HT - Saffron
>82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
>http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada
>
>
>
>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 19:59:25 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Guage package

On Fri, 18 Sep 1998 08:12:54 PDT "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
writes:
>> When i go to put the gauge cluster in my 87, how will I do it
>> with the completely different engine.  etc.....
>
>I don't think the intake will know the difference. I assume you are
>putting aftermarket gauges in the car? If you have a mechanical oil
>gauge, it's supposed to have a plastic capillary tube which leads to
>a little fitting down by the sending unit; you usually set up a Tee
>fitting so youuge... is it totally mechanical? That
>would also come with a big long metal tube like an oversized
>thermometer that goes aaalllll the way through the firewall and
>screws into the block in place of the TEMP idiot light switch. The
>idiot light for TEMP is theetc... etc.. etc...


No, sorry to be unclear.  I have aftermarket guages in the car now.  I
have a Olds "guage package" dash cluster assembly compilation integration
group pack flock gander thing, that I want to swap in in place of the
basic speedo, fuel guage, shift inicator cluster.  I'll be replacing the
mechanical Autometers.



ts. Sending
>units and idiot light switches use the same threads, so they are
>swap-in replacements for each other.
>
>> Do I need a computer in the car,  I would assume/hope not.
>
>Not as far as the gauges are concerned, no.
>
>-- Andy
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 20:04:57 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: shipping

I've heard of GreyHound shipping stuff cheap on their buses.  You just
have to have it dropped off and picked up at a station, and know what bus
it's onetc.  Something to look into perhaps

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

On Fri, 18 Sep 1998 12:40:24 -0500 "Brett Wilson"
<bwilson@dmotorworks.com> writes:
>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
>------=_NextPart_000_0088_01BDE301.81AB46C0
>Content-Type: text/plain;
>	charset="iso-8859-1"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
>What is the best way to ship a rear-end half way across the U.S.?
>I am in Texas and it is in NC, the cheapest I can find is a little
>under =
>$200.
>Does any one know of a good company to use for this?
>Consolidated freight is the company that wanted the $200.
>TIA!
>>Brett
>
>
>------=_NextPart_000_0088_01BDE301.81AB46C0
>Content-Type: text/html;
>	charset="iso-8859-1"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
><HTML>
><HEAD>
>
><META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
>http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
><META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
></HEAD>
><BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>What is the best way to ship a =
>rear-end half way=20
>across the U.S.?</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT size=3D2>I am in Texas and it is in NC, the cheapest I can
>=
>find is a=20
>little under $200.</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT size=3D2>Does any one know of a good company to use for=20
>this?</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT size=3D2>Consolidated freight is the company that wanted
>the=20
>$200.</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT size=3D2>TIA!</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT size=3D2>&gt;Brett</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>
>
>------=_NextPart_000_0088_01BDE301.81AB46C0--
>
>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 20:34:04 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Daughter's Olds in Flagstaff.

Hey Telzrow!

I lived in new mexico (silver city) and Arizona (Tucson) with my Olds.
But I and the car are from PA and in PA now.

To experience lack of power in Flagstaff is completely normal.  Your
daughter is now a victim of high altitude, needs to cook her macaronis
longer, but only at 94 degrees celcius or so.

Because of the difference in altitude, there is a considerale difference
in the density of the air; therefore, the car will have a much harder
time breathing.  With retuning the carb, the car has a limited time of
running until it fouls the plugs because of running too rich.  She will
need to retune the carb, or have it done, according to her elevation
level.  I believe flagstaff is about 7000 feet.(?)  The general rule for
altitude tuning is to decrease one jet size for every 1000 feet after
3000.  Some people say one jet size for every 2000 feet above 0 (sea
level).  The 1000 after 3000 recommendation came from Car Craft, and the
2000 one came from Holley, so either suggestion can be considered
credable.

So, assuming Flagstaff is at 7000 feet, she will need to decrease carb
jet size by 3.5 or 4 sizes.  Since there probably isn't a such thing as
3.5 sizes, she have to go with four.  If she's 7000!!!  Adjust
accordingly otherwise.  As far as metering rods, I believe they have
sizes matched with jets, but I'm not sure.  She'll be at the mercy of the
mechanc for that info.

In the mean time, instruct your daughter to spray carb cleaner down the
carb periodically.  She should do this while the car is running and nice
and hot.  It's best to spray directly in the carb and stop just before
the engine stalls, and then repeat many times.  It's good to work the
throttle a little while doing this also.  Tell her not to hesitate to
spray hlaf a can or an entire can in during one cleaning session, it can
only help.  This will help get rid of the raw fuel build up that will be
accumilating on her spark plugs.

I don't buy the clogged catalytic converter theory, especially with the
low mileage car.  If the car ever dies on her and will not restart after
some attempts at diagnosis and repair, there's a good chance that it will
be the fuel pump.  Running at high altitudes with a car not properly
tuned for it, for some mysterious reason, has a way of killing the fuel
pump.  Replacing an Olds fuel pump is no big deal at all, if your
daughter likes to work on cars at all.  But I guess y'all could worry
about that if it happens.

Also, the plug gap could/should be decreased .005 inches, or maybe even
.010.  After the car is tuned right, it will still be lacking a lot of
power.  At 7000 feet, she's only got half the air we do back east.  When
I had my car in Silver City, NM, it was a ridiculously noticeable
difference in power.  Many people out there have superchargers on all
kinds of cars just to compensate.  But, if your daughter is like most
other girls, she'll be happy to know that she weighs less there too!
Good luck, and feel free to ask any more questions.



Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 20:38:01 -0400
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: Intake Manifold

While working on my friends car, I noticed that one of the carb studs on
his Q Jet was loose.  Although I can't see it, I think the threads in
the manifold are stripped.  Any quick fixes till winter like Lock Tight?

Wayne Schwartz

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 20:28:33 EDT
From: Juz440@aol.com
Subject: Re: Long Distance Hauling

Bob,
What do you think the approximate date will be for departure.  I have 2 cars
in Niagara Falls, NY that will need to go to the Boca area in Florida.
However, I can't move them until sometime in November.  Your schedule and
cost?
Thanks,
Bob
JUZ440@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 20:52:08 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: still overheating

On Fri, 18 Sep 1998 17:38:32 -0500 "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
writes:
>Ray, The 67 442 cooling system is like new, changed water pump once,
>not so
>for the 75. Call it Daddy's Olds but it was Moms. She hardly drove it,
>cooling system was a mess, full of rust, and particulate matter.
>Replaced
>pump, new radiator, hoses, flushed block with cleaner. OK now but was
>a
>real pain in the butt. I guess it was due to lack of being driven.
>Beats me
>how a 67 could be so much cleaner then a 75.
>Lou Biggs
>lbiggs@intertek.net
>
>Yeah, radiators love to rust when they sit for a while, probably.
Especially if there was a low percentage of antifreeze mixed in.

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA
>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 20:41:35 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: CX?

I saw an old lady driving a 86ish Cutlass Cierra "CX edition".  It was
nice looking for a Cierra.  I'm just wondering if theres anything special
about this car?

Also, i forget if I mentioned this before, but a guy came through the
drive-thru in an Aurora at the bank I work at, and I asked him how he
liked driving it.  He responded quickly and loudly (overheard by all
other customers inside) "Oh, it's better than sex!  I've driven Cadillacs
and Lincolns and Buicks, and this car is better than all of them!"  That
guy's cool.

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 20:50:21 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: still overheating

I have changed the water pump in my car 5 times in the past 1.75 years.
Once was in a truck stop parking lot in Wakeeny Kansas, once was in a
thrift store parking lot in T(ruth) or C(onsequences), New mexico, once
in my driveway in Tucson, once in my driveway in PA, and once at my dad's
garage.  I am completely bloody sick of it!  But I do have it down to the
point where I could do the whole job in  3 minutes (slight exaggeration).
 Apparently something is blowing my pumps, and it has to do with high
speed driving.  The pump always blows after a long cruise on the glorious
US interstate system.  I believe it to be a restrictedly flowing radiator
creating back pressure on the water pump at high rpms and blowing the
seal in the pump.  The pump will last forever, as long as I don't take
long road trips.  But that sucks, because I like to drive my car around
the country!  I'm going to buy a radiator sometime soon if I'm smart!

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

On Fri, 18 Sep 1998 17:38:32 -0500 "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
writes:
>Ray, The 67 442 cooling system is like new, changed water pump once,
>not so
>for the 75. Call it Daddy's Olds but it was Moms. She hardly drove it,
>cooling system was a mess, full of rust, and particulate matter.
>Replaced
>pump, new radiator, hoses, flushed block with cleaner. OK now but was
>a
>real pain in the butt. I guess it was due to lack of being driven.
>Beats me
>how a 67 could be so much cleaner then a 75.
>Lou Biggs
>lbiggs@intertek.net
>
>
>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 20:36:24 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: found a '78 350cid cutlass

Have you got a console and some bucket seats by chance?


Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA
On Fri, 18 Sep 1998 19:36:47 -0400 Jim Olson
<jolson@remcen.ehhs.cmich.edu> writes:
>We had a '78 Cutlass w/ a 260v8 years ago. Really nice car but what a
>dog. Now we have an '85 w/ t-tops and lots of goodies that I'm parting
>out, and that came with a 307/200 but someone put a late 70's 350/350
>in
>it.
>
>Mid size GM will always hold a special place in my heart.
>
>Jim...
>
>'85 Cutlass parts<-------ha ha! ------------------------------
>'65 Skylark
>
>
>

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Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 20:54:22 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: engine covers

I think this is some oil windage tray or something, helps control oil
flow at high rpms I believe.


On Fri, 18 Sep 1998 18:39:24 EDT GT5726@aol.com writes:
>My 330 had the same cover...Im not really sure what it was for...maybe
>to aid
>in keeping hot oil off the bottom of the intake?????Anyones guess...I
>had to
>ditch it when I installed a performer RPM intake, as it wouldn't fit
>with the
>intake gaskets(403 T/A).

Are we talking about the same thing here?  When I replaced my intake
gasket, part of the gasket was a big aluminum tray, and it fit right in
on my 403 under a Performer RPM manifold...

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA




 I wouldn't lose sleep over not having
>one...but that
>is just my opinion. Collyn
>

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 21:27:52 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Hey Olds Magnet!

Hey!  I just visited your website.  nice carS
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Did I see an 87 on the trailer?

Amd what are those mirrors on the Supreme?!

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 21:20:29 EDT
From: DKlauber@aol.com
Subject: shipping advice

I thought of another idea that might be good.  All carriers should be insured
or bonded or something like that, so I'd  ask who they have insurance with and
then call them.  Check to make sure they are still insured with them, and also
check and see if they have claims or a history of problems.  David

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 18:24:01 -0700
From: "WI02 Rutschmann Brandon M. AO2" <BRutschm@vinson.navy.mil>
Subject: RE: Carb Problems

I have a 1971 carb original equipment.  I did adjust the float so I
might just have it to high.  I did replace the needle and seat and it
does not die at idle.  I am not sure what kind of choke it has but it
is operating correct.  Thank you for your help and any more you can
give me.  Brandon

- -----Original Message-----
From:	KarlAune@aol.com [SMTP:KarlAune@aol.com]
Sent:	Friday, September 18, 1998 7:33 AM
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:	Re: Carb Problems

In a message dated 98-09-17 19:53:58 EDT, you write:

<<  I tried to adjust the idle screws and I just can't get it to idle
correctly.  It sounds like it is too rich and it smells of unburned
fuel at
the exhaust. While rebuilding I
 Cleaned the varnish off the primary needles with a scotch brite(r)
pad.  I
believe this changed the jet setting to dump too much fuel in my carb.
>>

Brandon,
Your metering rods play no part in idle or off-idle fuel flow.
So if your car accellerates fine and runs good at speed, then rods are
OK.

For my 2GC the proper idle setting is;
1) turn screws all the way in
2) back both out 4 turns
3) adjust slightly to taste (usually tastes bad)
4) nothing (sorry)

Other info is helpful.
What year carburetor is it?
Does it have integral or divorced choke?
Is the choke operating properly?
Does the motor die at idle?
Did you replace needle & seat?

There is an adjustment for setting the floats for proper level by
(shudder)
bending them.
Is this one of the things you did?

To others: is it likely that this is caused by a float allowing fuel
level in
bowl to get too high?

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 21:32:09 EDT
From: DKlauber@aol.com
Subject: Parting out Toronado

Saw this ad in the Phoenix paper a remembered someone was looking for an oil
pan:
69 Olds Toronado parting out, many new parts.  Bill King *82-938-0948
I am not sure what *82 means, but Phoenix area code is (602).  If someone is
interested and can't reach him, respond and I will look into it for you.
Don't know the guy or car...usual disclaimers apply
David OCA #30416
70 442 W-30 conv

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 18:27:49 -0700
From: "WI02 Rutschmann Brandon M. AO2" <BRutschm@vinson.navy.mil>
Subject: RE: Lightweight fans & hp

I just installed a flex o lite on my 71 rocket 350 and I don't like
it.  If you are replacing the stock fan you will notice it is much
louder even at cruising speeds.  I also noticed my car runs about 5
degrees warmer.  I also didn't notice the extra horsepower if any that
I got.  I am going back to my stock steel fan as soon as I can get to
the store and buy a fan clutch.  I have had no experience with
electric fans but I would like to try but havent had the money.
 Brandon

- -----Original Message-----
From:	crl6420@online.no [SMTP:crl6420@online.no]
Sent:	Friday, September 18, 1998 8:32 AM
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:	Lightweight fans & hp

Hello,

I was just looking through the Summit parts catalog,
on the flex-a-lite fans. Summit says that you can
"get back up to 17 free hp€s" when switching to
electric fan. someone told me they had tested a
lightweight fan on the dyno, and the engine made 19
horsepower more than with the stock fan. (or what-
ever fan they had) i just think this sounds to good to
be true. but if this is true, it must be the "deal of the
month" at only $14.50...
what do you think ???

Chris RL, Norway
 Cutlass calais -81

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 21:30:45 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Windshield Antennas

>Randy,
>State Farm paid 976.00 for the same thing for the 75. Think they got taken?
Cost me 50.00. Blew my mind, installer was a friend, customer is not
supposed to see total bill he said. Wow! Wonder why insurance is so high.


Lou,
Funny you should mention that..........That's what the glass company had
down for the list price on my bill!  I didn't use my insurance (Nationwide)
as I bought the car with a cracked windshield.
Sounds like the ins. companies are paying military prices. ;-)

Just had the windshield on my Toyota P/U broken Wednesday (damn flying
stones) Stone flying xx mph + truck moving at 85 mph, guess windshield
didn't stand a chance. I'll have to see what it costs my ins. co. for this
one.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 21:41:13 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: engine covers

>My 330 had the same cover...Im not really sure what it was for...maybe to
aidin keeping hot oil off the bottom of the intake?????Anyones guess...I had
to ditch it when I installed a performer RPM intake, as it wouldn't fit with
the intake gaskets(403 T/A).
>
>Are we talking about the same thing here?

Sounds like you're both talking about the valley pan......it's used to keep
the oil off the underside of the intake. It's supposed to keep the intake
cooler. Won't hurt anything if you don't use it, although when I put the
Performer RPM intake on my 350 it fit fine. I also used a set of Mr. G
composite gaskets on top of the valley pan. Mr. G gaskets also do not have
an opening for the exhaust crossover. Mine is blocked off anyway.

Randy
Honey Brook, PA (mightas well join the crowd)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 21:57:30 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: still overheating

>
>>Well, I put a thermostat, no change.  I guess that is to be expected,
>>because if I run at 200 with no thermostat, it'll be the same with it,
>>because the thermo will just stay open, essentially the same as not >being
>here, right?  Damn it...


That's correct. The thermostat is an on/off water switch. Open lets water
circulate and cool thru the radiator, closed (almost) stops circulation and
the water heats up. No thermostat is pretty close to an open thermostat,
i.e. maximum cooling.
>
>Well.......not exactly.  Without a thermostast the water circulates too
fast
>therefore it doesn't stay in the rad long enough to dissipate the most
heat.
>T-stat acts as a restrictor to slow the flow and keep the water in the rad
>longer.
>
>Right guys?


I checked with the machine engineers I work with, and they say "Umm..No".
This seems to be an "automotive myth" of some sort. Water is always in
contact with the cooling coils of the radiator, regardless of how fast the
coolant is moving. The radiator will extract a fixed number of btu's per hr
of heat from the coolant. As long as that's more than the engine is putting
~into~ the coolant, the engine will not heat up.

Look at it from the other side - faster circulation means the water doesn't
get as hot comming ~out~ of the engine. So the radiator doesn't need to cool
it as much anyway.

In a closed loop system, an equilibrium will be reached under any given flow
conditions. There's an optimum flow rate that will yeild the most efficient
cooling, and a point of diminishing returns, but the typical water pump in
your motor will never push coolant fast enough to be on the other side of
that curve.

>Which brings me to this question.  What is the need for a high flow water
>pump?

Beats the hell outa me.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 18:58:24 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Intake Manifold

At 08:38 PM 9/18/98 -0400, you wrote:
>While working on my friends car, I noticed that one of the carb studs on
>his Q Jet was loose.  Although I can't see it, I think the threads in
>the manifold are stripped.  Any quick fixes till winter like Lock Tight?
>
helicoil it or retapp to 3/8" .
Beware though, the left front one goes right into a intake passage(at least
on the
intake i've seen), so if that one is stripped, you need to pull the intake
to be
 sure that no metal bits go into your engine.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 18:55:05 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Sedan to Convert Frame Swap?

>
>That aside, am I right in thinking he is totally off base in thinking
>this? Unless there is an easy way of shortening a 116" wheelbase frame to
>112"... is there?

They can be cut,diced, julienned and rewelded. :)
Don't sedans have open frames and vert's boxed frames?
If so, wouldn't it be better to use a boxed wagon frame?
Mitaswell have the boxed frame after all that cutting and welding.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 22:04:51 -0400
From: "Chris Costantino" <chrisc@tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Tire and Rims question.

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0143_01BDE350.5C2D3F80
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi everybody -=20
    I have a question (several actually, but I'm going to start with =
this one). I am the very proud owner of a 72 Cutlass S. I have owned it =
for 2 1/2 years and driven it twice. It's been living at a paint and =
body shop and will soon be ready to come home. Before anybody asks the =
obvious - I made a deal with the body shop owner. I wrote them a =
complete tow truck billing system and they took care of the exterior, =
including the bumpers. It had rust in all the usual spots. Its all been =
cut out and replaced with steel patch panels and we just recently got =
hte bumpers back.=20

My question is - I have to replace the rubber, and I want to put a new =
set of American Racing wheels. What is the largest size I can install =
that looks good. I think the car came with 14 inch wheels, but I think =
that 15's or even 16's will fit properly. Please any =
opinions/experiences/advice is greatly appreciated.

One last thing - I'm in the market for power options, a tilt column and =
a ralley pack. If you have something  for sale email me off list.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0143_01BDE350.5C2D3F80
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hi everybody - </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I have a question =
(several=20
actually, but I'm going to start with this one). I am the very proud =
owner of a=20
72 Cutlass S. I have owned it for 2 1/2 years and driven it twice. It's =
been=20
living at a paint and body shop and will soon be ready to come home. =
Before=20
anybody asks the obvious - I made a deal with the body shop owner. I =
wrote them=20
a complete tow truck billing system and they took care of the exterior,=20
including the bumpers. It had rust in all the usual spots. Its all been =
cut out=20
and replaced with steel patch panels and we just recently got hte =
bumpers=20
back.&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>My question is - I have to replace =
the rubber,=20
and I want to put a new set of American Racing wheels. What is the =
largest size=20
I can install that looks good. I think the car came with 14 inch wheels, =
but I=20
think that 15's or even 16's will fit properly. Please any=20
opinions/experiences/advice is greatly appreciated.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>One last thing - I'm in the market =
for power=20
options, a tilt column and a ralley pack. If you have something&nbsp; =
for sale=20
email me off list.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0143_01BDE350.5C2D3F80--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 21:13:38 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: still overheating

Ray,
50/50 water to antifreeze, some times it's gets really cold in St. Lou.
like 10 to 15 below F. Seen it worse. don't know why I live here. Mama
likes NM or Arizona. We get New Mexico mag and Arizona Highways mag. Both
Olds's would live longer out there. Us to, probably. (Got Olds content in),
stretching it though.
Lou
lbiggs@intertek.net
in good ole St. Lou

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 22:15:20 EDT
From: KASOLDS@aol.com
Subject: tranny jumps between 2nd and 3rd

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- --part0_906171322_boundary
Content-ID: <0_906171322@inet_out.mail.aol.com.1>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

Well, I finally got my TH350 swapped to a TH400.  The tranny works well and
doesn't slip or anything.  However when I drive at average city speeds 30-40
the tranny seems to jump back and forth between 2nd gear and 3rd gear.  I can
accelerate from a stop and it will shift through all 3 gears just fine.  Then
once a reach driving speed I let of the gas.  This is when it seems to go back
into 2nd gear.  If I get back on the gas it will stay in 2nd for a few seconds
and then shift up to 3rd again.  I know my problem is not the electric
kickdown, because I unhooked and it still did the same thing.  Is this a
vacuum problem?  Is this bad for the tranny?  Has anyone had this problem?
HELP PLEASE

 Thanks
 Keith


- --part0_906171322_boundary
Content-ID: <0_906171322@inet_out.mail.aol.com.2>
Content-type: message/rfc822
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
Content-disposition: inline

From: KASOLDS@aol.com
Return-path: <KASOLDS@aol.com>
To: Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: HELP tranny jumps between 2nd and 3rd
Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 18:25:16 EDT
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

Well, I finally got my TH350 swapped to a TH400.  The tranny works well and
doesn't slip or anything.  However when I drive at average city speeds 30-40
the tranny seems to jump back and forth between 2nd gear and 3rd gear.  I can
accelerate from a stop and it will shift through all 3 gears just fine.  Then
once a reach driving speed I let of the gas.  This is when it seems to go back
into 2nd gear.  If I get back on the gas it will stay in 2nd for a few seconds
and then shift up to 3rd again.  I know my problem is not the electric
kickdown, because I unhooked and it still did the same thing.  Is this a
vacuum problem?  Is this bad for the tranny?  Has anyone had this problem?
HELP PLEASE

Thanks
Keith

- --part0_906171322_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 22:30:44 -0400
From: "Brad Nicholson" <brad442@erols.com>
Subject: [Event] 2nd ANNUAL OCC CRUISE NITE 9/19 (MD)

September 19 - 2nd ANNUAL OLDSMOBILE CENTENNIAL CLUB CRUISE NITE
Hosted by the Oldsmobile Centennial Club. At The Big M Restaurant/ Bel Air
Drive-In Theater, P.O. Box 111, Rt. 22, Churchville, MD (Between Bel Air &
Aberdeen, MD. 5 miles west of I-95). All years and condition Oldsmobiles
welcome, daily drivers to show trailer queens. Free goodie bag to first 50
Oldsmobiles through the gate. Open to the public. Other vehicles welcome to
cruise on in. Music, fun and games, 50/50 drawing. FREE! For more info
contact: The Big M @ (410) 734-4370 or Brad Nicholson at (410) 256-0381 or
email: brad442@erols.com. Web Site: http://www.erols.com/brad442/occ

Directions:
I-95 either North or South
Exit 85 - Bel Air/Aberdeen (MD Rt 22) and head West toward Bel Air
Go 5-6 miles and the Big M is on the left

Brad Nicholson
brad442@erols.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 21:39:59 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: still overheating

Dave,
Doesn't water or any material have a fixed heat absorption rate? Like
running your hand over a flame, quick, no burn, slow, ouch! Perhaps I'm
wrong but doing cars for years we have found a few examples that removing a
thermostat will increase the water temp. I'm not an engineer so I could be
wrong. Any input?
Lou Biggs
- ----------
> From: Dave Cullen <david.cullen@snet.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: still overheating
> Date: Friday, September 18, 1998 8:57 PM
>
> >
> >>Well, I put a thermostat, no change.  I guess that is to be expected,
> >>because if I run at 200 with no thermostat, it'll be the same with it,
> >>because the thermo will just stay open, essentially the same as not
>being
> >here, right?  Damn it...
>
>
> That's correct. The thermostat is an on/off water switch. Open lets water
> circulate and cool thru the radiator, closed (almost) stops circulation
and
> the water heats up. No thermostat is pretty close to an open thermostat,
> i.e. maximum cooling.
> >
> >Well.......not exactly.  Without a thermostast the water circulates too
> fast
> >therefore it doesn't stay in the rad long enough to dissipate the most
> heat.
> >T-stat acts as a restrictor to slow the flow and keep the water in the
rad
> >longer.
> >
> >Right guys?
>
>
> I checked with the machine engineers I work with, and they say "Umm..No".
> This seems to be an "automotive myth" of some sort. Water is always in
> contact with the cooling coils of the radiator, regardless of how fast
the
> coolant is moving. The radiator will extract a fixed number of btu's per
hr
> of heat from the coolant. As long as that's more than the engine is
putting
> ~into~ the coolant, the engine will not heat up.
>
> Look at it from the other side - faster circulation means the water
doesn't
> get as hot comming ~out~ of the engine. So the radiator doesn't need to
cool
> it as much anyway.
>
> In a closed loop system, an equilibrium will be reached under any given
flow
> conditions. There's an optimum flow rate that will yeild the most
efficient
> cooling, and a point of diminishing returns, but the typical water pump
in
> your motor will never push coolant fast enough to be on the other side of
> that curve.
>
> >Which brings me to this question.  What is the need for a high flow
water
> >pump?
>
> Beats the hell outa me.
>
> drc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 22:43:20 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Intake Manifold

Any quick fixes till winter like Lock Tight?

Wayne Schwartz
_____________

FelPro (I think) markets a metal-loaded epoxy product for just such an
application.  Can't vouch for it, never tried it, I'd put in a HeliCoil
myself...

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 22:38:03 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Sedan to Convert Frame Swap?

That aside, am I right in thinking he is totally off base in thinking
this? Unless there is an easy way of shortening a 116" wheelbase frame to
112"... is there?

Greg Beaulieu
_____________

$ure, there'$ alway$ a way.   ;-)

Shortening the frame is the least of the problems, as this can certainly be
done.  The real problem is that the convertible frame is a closed box cross
section, while sedan and coupe frames are open cross section (a "C" cross
section).  Boxing an open frame to turn it into a convert frame is not
really an option, as unlike street rod frames, the cross section of a later
model convertible frame is not a rectangular box but is contoured to fit
the floor pan.  If this car is worth saving, get a rust-free convert frame
from Arizona, typically US$500-800 in Hemmings.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 22:28:39 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Mallory Dual Point Problem in 69 CS

Am NOT correcting Joe, he already knows, just
failed to mention. Thought it might confuse you if you haven't worked with
a dual point unit before.
Lou Biggs
___________

You're correct, of course, Lou.  I was in a hurry, didn't want to get into
the theory of how dual point distributors work, etc...

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 23:03:59 -0400
From: "Chris Costantino" <chrisc@tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Re: still overheating

I head mechanic on a race team told me that if you take a thermostat out,
you run the risk of the water traveling through the engine so fast that it
does not have the abaily to absorb heat. It will blow through such that it
can't cool the motor. Take it for what its worth.....



- -----Original Message-----
From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, September 18, 1998 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: still overheating


>Dave,
>Doesn't water or any material have a fixed heat absorption rate? Like
>running your hand over a flame, quick, no burn, slow, ouch! Perhaps I'm
>wrong but doing cars for years we have found a few examples that removing a
>thermostat will increase the water temp. I'm not an engineer so I could be
>wrong. Any input?
>Lou Biggs
>----------
>> From: Dave Cullen <david.cullen@snet.net>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: still overheating
>> Date: Friday, September 18, 1998 8:57 PM
>>
>> >
>> >>Well, I put a thermostat, no change.  I guess that is to be expected,
>> >>because if I run at 200 with no thermostat, it'll be the same with it,
>> >>because the thermo will just stay open, essentially the same as not
>>being
>> >here, right?  Damn it...
>>
>>
>> That's correct. The thermostat is an on/off water switch. Open lets water
>> circulate and cool thru the radiator, closed (almost) stops circulation
>and
>> the water heats up. No thermostat is pretty close to an open thermostat,
>> i.e. maximum cooling.
>> >
>> >Well.......not exactly.  Without a thermostast the water circulates too
>> fast
>> >therefore it doesn't stay in the rad long enough to dissipate the most
>> heat.
>> >T-stat acts as a restrictor to slow the flow and keep the water in the
>rad
>> >longer.
>> >
>> >Right guys?
>>
>>
>> I checked with the machine engineers I work with, and they say "Umm..No".
>> This seems to be an "automotive myth" of some sort. Water is always in
>> contact with the cooling coils of the radiator, regardless of how fast
>the
>> coolant is moving. The radiator will extract a fixed number of btu's per
>hr
>> of heat from the coolant. As long as that's more than the engine is
>putting
>> ~into~ the coolant, the engine will not heat up.
>>
>> Look at it from the other side - faster circulation means the water
>doesn't
>> get as hot comming ~out~ of the engine. So the radiator doesn't need to
>cool
>> it as much anyway.
>>
>> In a closed loop system, an equilibrium will be reached under any given
>flow
>> conditions. There's an optimum flow rate that will yeild the most
>efficient
>> cooling, and a point of diminishing returns, but the typical water pump
>in
>> your motor will never push coolant fast enough to be on the other side of
>> that curve.
>>
>> >Which brings me to this question.  What is the need for a high flow
>water
>> >pump?
>>
>> Beats the hell outa me.
>>
>> drc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 20:20:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: resident Olds GN guy

- ---Arnold Alvin TSgt <ARNOLDA@SCHRIEVER.af.mil> wrote:
>
>
>   I'm the resident Buick GN guy on the list...  hee hee  I desire a
Hurst
> Lightning Rod shifter to add to my '84 GN.  I think the interest of
which
> car is better looking is in the eye of the beholder.  I'll have to
say this
> though...  very few of you guys are running mid 12's or better with
a V8 let
> alone a V6 like us.  "IRACEIT" is my license plate.  Don't feel
bad...


- ------Yeah ,I'm gonna see several of those GN's on Sat. at the BOP
nats....gotta give the Buick guys credit...a good show and always good
turnout.It's kinda funny watching these cars race though....most do
not have the "rumble" of most cars you expect to see at the
track....most are stock....all you hear is the whhhhiiiinnnneee of the
turbo at staging...then launch on green....BTW...this is ~no~ cutdown
on the GN's,very nice!!!but the one's that are black and gray (first
year,I think),the car is ok...but that paint scheme.....I'll be nice :)

>   Could one of you guys find me the shifter I desire?

- ---I'll keep my eyes out...
                      Sman
==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 23:34:48 EDT
From: David1756@aol.com
Subject: subscribe

subscribe david wilk

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 23:37:24 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: '69 Antennas

Mr Ada wrote:
>
> GT5726@aol.com wrote:
>
> > haha!....just put a power antenna in the front fender and drill 'er in the
> > front...LIKE A MAN!
>
> Has anyone tried to retrofit a power antenna into the front fender?  What was
>
> done or had to be done?  How about using a modern flush mounted type power
> antenna.  I am sure techology has solved some of the space issues.
>
> Chris

Cutlass models had rear mounted power antennas (as has already been
mentioned here) up through '69.  They stuck up a couple of inches from
the 1/4 panel.  But full-size cars had front mounted power antennas for
'69 and '70.  These were flush with the top of the fender and I believe
were mounted on the driver's side instead of the passenger's side.  I've
often wondered if one of these units could be adapted to fit a Cutlass.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 23:58:55 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: found a '78 350cid cutlass

DIKU wrote:

> You may want to contact a Olds dealer to see if
> they have records of what engines came in that year car.

At which time, said Oldsmobile dealer will look at you like you have
three heads and each one is speaking a different foreign language.  Then
he will promptly go back to doing something that generates income...

Seriously, Olds didn't install 350s in Cutlass models in '78.  They had
a 231 V6 as standard and optional 260 and 305 V8s.  The 305 was
available in 2bbl and 4bbl varieties.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 21:23:33 -0700
From: Chris & Robin Miller <cya442@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: dwell problem Unilite Distributor

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Ken Swick wrote:

>   Attempts to find Mallory on internethave been futile to this
> point. Ken Swick
> swickka@pa.net

=============================
Ken,

    Mallory was bought out by Mr. Gasket and you can get tech support at
there site.

                                        http://www.mrgasket.com/

- --
Chris Miller
'68 442
San Diego, CA
mailto:cya442@mindspring.com


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<HTML>
<BODY BGCOLOR="#FFFFFF">
&nbsp;

<P>Ken Swick wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>&nbsp;<FONT SIZE=-1> Attempts to find Mallory on
internet</FONT><FONT SIZE=-1>have been futile to this point.</FONT>&nbsp;<FONT
COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>Ken Swick</FONT></FONT> <BR><FONT
COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1><A
HREF="mailto:swickka@pa.net">swickka@pa.net</A></FONT></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
============================= <BR>Ken,

<P>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mallory was bought out by Mr. Gasket and you can
get tech support at there site.

<P>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs
p
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
&
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
<A
HREF="http://www.mrgasket.com/">http://www.mrgasket.com/</A>

<P>--
<BR>Chris Miller
<BR>'68 442
<BR>San Diego, CA
<BR><A HREF="mailto:cya442@mindspring.com">mailto:cya442@mindspring.com</A>
<BR>&nbsp;
</BODY>
</HTML>

- --------------B64030DCD33856ED76E65780--

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Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 00:28:52 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: Guage package

Ray Costanzo wrote:

> No, sorry to be unclear.  I have aftermarket guages in the car now.  I
> have a Olds "guage package" dash cluster assembly compilation integration
> group pack flock gander thing, that I want to swap in in place of the
> basic speedo, fuel guage, shift inicator cluster.  I'll be replacing the
> mechanical Autometers.

Hey, I took a set of 2 5/8" Auto Meter Sport Comp Electric (Oil PSI,
Water Temp) and set them in the center vent panel (with holes cut
perfectly).  Electric senders, and changed the dash lights to blue...  I
LOVE them in that panel..  Over far enough to expose the "Rocket" yet
tight enough together to fit in JUST perfect.  But I'll warn you, Auto
Meter Electric (I dunno about mechanical) are just a little too long, so
you have to cut the clock housing out (so what, it's covered)..
AWESOME SETUP!  I had thought about a gauge cluster conversion, but
decided against it when I saw that Jegs sells a G-Body windsheild pillar
dual gauge housing for like $20 or 25 or something! There's my Alt and
Battery gauges in the pillar...  Tach on the Column, and SWEEPER for a
Speed-O!!  DEFINETLY looks good (IE: non-hack job)
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 00:31:36 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Rumours Of My Demise Have Been.....

Greatly Exaggerated.  Hi Gang!  Just got back and re-s*bbed to the list and
wanted to let you know that although I didn't do well (at all!) at the SCCA's
Solo II Nationals in Topeka, it was a lot of fun.  One of these years I'll
have my killer '72 442 wannabe done, and then I'll be able to give a
performance report about some serious Rocket Power!

Did I miss anything important?

Take Care all,

Ken Snyder
Sunburnt in Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Sep 1998 00:34:23 -0000
From: "Mike Druger" <mdruger@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Tire and Rims question.

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Chris,
I've been saving for a set of wheels for my 71 Olds Cutlass S 350 V8.  =
The original spec for the car was a 14x7 rim and a G70-14 tire (which =
converts to either a 235/60-14 or a 205/70-14) with a 25.1" diameter.  I =
measured the wheel offset equal to 4 1/8" .  I also measured the free =
space between the mounted wheel and tire within the rear fender. I made =
sure to give myself a safety factor of one inch from the fender walls =
for good measure.  The measurements I got were 2" from outside fender =
and 2" from inside fender to an wide 8" tire.  According to these =
measurements, I have a width equal to 12" to play with.  16" tires are =
much more expensive than 15" tires, and will make it difficult to find a =
tire to fit in the fender well and keep the original tire diameter so =
that you don't change the gear ratio, alter the accuracy of the speedo, =
and spend more money than necessary.  My intention is to increase =
handling capability, add some stylish tires and new rims.  I'm deciding =
between either a 15x8" Cragar SS 88/61 or the 15x7.5" American Racing =
Torque Thrusters wheels. Also, BF Goodrich TA tires of about either a =
235/60 R15 or a 245/50 r15 if these sizes are available.  Good luck.
    You wrote >>
   =20
    Hi everybody -=20
        I have a question (several actually, but I'm going to start with =
this one). I am the very proud owner of a 72 Cutlass S. I have owned it =
for 2 1/2 years and driven it twice. It's been living at a paint and =
body shop and will soon be ready to come home. Before anybody asks the =
obvious - I made a deal with the body shop owner. I wrote them a =
complete tow truck billing system and they took care of the exterior, =
including the bumpers. It had rust in all the usual spots. Its all been =
cut out and replaced with steel patch panels and we just recently got =
hte bumpers back.=20
    =20
    My question is - I have to replace the rubber, and I want to put a =
new set of American Racing wheels. What is the largest size I can =
install that looks good. I think the car came with 14 inch wheels, but I =
think that 15's or even 16's will fit properly. Please any =
opinions/experiences/advice is greatly appreciated.
    =20
    One last thing - I'm in the market for power options, a tilt column =
and a ralley pack. If you have something  for sale email me off list.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0068_01BDE365.3FC1A7E0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Chris,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>I've been =
saving for a set=20
of wheels for my 71 Olds Cutlass S 350 V8.&nbsp; The original spec for =
the car=20
was a 14x7 rim and a G70-14 tire (which converts to either a 235/60-14 =
or a=20
205/70-14) with a 25.1&quot; diameter.&nbsp; I measured the wheel offset =
equal=20
to 4 1/8&quot; .&nbsp; I also measured the free space between the =
mounted wheel=20
and tire within the rear fender. I made sure to give myself a safety =
factor of=20
one inch from the fender walls for good measure.&nbsp; The measurements =
I got=20
were 2&quot; from outside fender and 2&quot; from inside fender to an =
wide=20
8&quot; tire.&nbsp; According to these measurements, I have a width =
equal to=20
12&quot; to play with.&nbsp; 16&quot; tires are much more expensive than =

15&quot; tires, and will make it difficult to find a tire to fit in the =
fender=20
well and keep the original tire diameter so that you don't change the =
gear=20
ratio, alter the accuracy of the speedo, and spend more money than=20
necessary.&nbsp; My intention is to increase handling capability, add =
some=20
stylish tires and new rims.&nbsp; I'm deciding between either a =
15x8&quot;=20
Cragar SS 88/61 or the 15x7.5&quot; American Racing Torque Thrusters =
wheels.=20
Also, BF Goodrich TA tires of about either a 235/60 R15 or a 245/50 r15 =
if these=20
sizes are available.&nbsp; Good luck.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>You wrote &gt;&gt;<BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hi everybody - </FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I have a =
question=20
    (several actually, but I'm going to start with this one). I am the =
very=20
    proud owner of a 72 Cutlass S. I have owned it for 2 1/2 years and =
driven it=20
    twice. It's been living at a paint and body shop and will soon be =
ready to=20
    come home. Before anybody asks the obvious - I made a deal with the =
body=20
    shop owner. I wrote them a complete tow truck billing system and =
they took=20
    care of the exterior, including the bumpers. It had rust in all the =
usual=20
    spots. Its all been cut out and replaced with steel patch panels and =
we just=20
    recently got hte bumpers back.&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>My question is - I have to =
replace the=20
    rubber, and I want to put a new set of American Racing wheels. What =
is the=20
    largest size I can install that looks good. I think the car came =
with 14=20
    inch wheels, but I think that 15's or even 16's will fit properly. =
Please=20
    any opinions/experiences/advice is greatly appreciated.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>One last thing - I'm in the =
market for power=20
    options, a tilt column and a ralley pack. If you have =
something&nbsp; for=20
    sale email me off list.</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1494
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