Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1451


oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, August 27 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1451



Re: obsessed with my 67
Georgia Cars
Re: Speedo drive gear
Re: Mission Fast Street Car Impossible
transmission probs.
Re: 1967
75 hurst/olds interior
starter over heat
Re: Georgia Cars
'65 Jetstar 1
72 H/O paint questions
Re: starter over heat
re: starter problems
re:  FINALLY figured it out! (was starter problems)
Re: Georgia Cars
UNBOUNCE: transmission probs.
UNBOUNCE: 3.4L Engine
UNBOUNCE: Front Suspension/Wheels
RE: Mission Fast Street Car Impossible
Re: What is wrong with V6 3.8? Was:(Re: A couple questions for the folks in 
O...
Re: 75 hurst/olds interior
RE: FINALLY figured it out! (was starter problems)
Re: PARTS LIST
Re: M21 & M22 Transmissions
Re: Georgia Cars
Re: Mission Fast Street Car Impossible
Re: Starter, multitester was: starter problems, please h*lp
Re: index plugs
Re: Jetting Carb
Re: Speedo drive gear
rear gears and diff. are in!!! finally
Re: Mission Fast Street Car Impossible
RE: rear gears and diff. are in!!! finally
Fixed - Starter "issue"
Re: Georgia Cars
Hotchkis B and C body arms- Re: broken lower control arms
Hotchkis arms: sorry list!
Hotchkis arms (the real post)Re: broken lower control arms
SV: Mission Fast Street Car Impossible
G-body computer deletion
Re: Re: Mission Fast Street Car Impossible
Re: Mission Fast Street Car Impossible
putting in a head gasket??
Re: 75 hurst/olds interior
RE: rear gears and diff. are in!!! finally
Fuel Pump/Regulator/Line ??
RE: Fuel Pump/Regulator/Line ??
Re: 75 hurst/olds interior
Conv. Top Bow??
Transmission Identification
87 olds
Re: rear gears and diff. are in!!! finally
Re: putting in a head gasket??
paint motor
Re: paint motor
Battery?  Alternator?  Exhaust Leak?
Re: Conv. Top Bow??
Re: Battery? Alternator? Exhaust Leak?
Re: Transmission Identification
Year 1 Motor Mount Question
Re: UPDATE aluminum heads!
Hey Guys, I'm BACK!!!
Re: Battery? Alternator? Exhaust Leak?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 23:34:17 -0500 (CDT)
From: Kimberly Ann Wandrey <kaw0006@jove.acs.unt.edu>
Subject: Re: obsessed with my 67

Hi Guys and Gals!

A few years ago Kim was flying to Chicago to visit Dad. A lady sitting
next to Kim asked if I had any kids.

Kim said yes, his name is Junior.
Kim takes the picture out and shocks the #$!! out of her when the picture
was of an Oldsmobile instead of a human. :)

No one panic. ;) Kim is pursuing a Master's Degree in Rehab Counseling
specializing in addictions.

My name is Kim. Kim is a hopeless oldmobilaholic.... ;)

Kim & Junior ('72 Cutlass Supreme)
Dallas, Texas
kaw0006@jove.acs.unt.edu
Member OCA & NTOC

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 21:46:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Georgia Cars

I saw an ad in a local paper for an '86 442.  I phoned the guy and he told
me it was originally a Georgia car and had been here in Southern California
for a few years.

Being a Canadian transplant, I think I have seen both ends of the rust
spectrum but was wondering how Georgia cars rate?

Does anyone have an idea what these cars are going for and if they are
going up or down in value? He "says" it has 107K miles and is in good shape.

Do all these cars have the T-tops or was it an option?

What are the weak points to look out for?


Lloyd Ferguson
Glendale, California
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

1969 Cutlass Convertible
1984 Buick Riviera

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 00:57:19 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Speedo drive gear

Shang wrote:
>
> Does anyone know the correct number of teeth/color of the speedo gear
> for an '86-'87 442 with a 2004R and 3.73?

I think I've seen that information somewhere on the turbo regal website:

http://ni.umd.edu/gnttype/www/

I've misplaced the information but you can probably dig around their
website and find it.  I think I found it when I searched the archives.
Searching for "gear", "speedometer" or "speedo" should find it pretty
quick.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 00:50:19 EDT
From: <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Mission Fast Street Car Impossible

http://www.voicenet.com/~rinacker/2turbo/

guys, i dont know who all has seen this, but i thought id stick it up here
since its on the topic of turbos.
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 23:53:21 -0500
From: senator@mail.chorus.net (Robert F. Newbegin)
Subject: transmission probs.

Well, I just got home, my mother had to give me a ride home, since my
transmission no longer shifts out of first.  I can go to park, reverse,
neutral, and drive, but when in drive, it doesn't go up to 2nd or 3rd.  I
tried using S and L (1st and 2nd only) but it still didn't work. So I'll
have to take it to a tranny shop tomorrow (not easy, top speed is about 25
mph) and have it fixed.  The car is a 1978 Cutlass Supreme w/350 cid and
TH350.  Has a shift kit, don't know if the trans.  is original.

Any ideas before going to a pro?

Bob         '78 CS

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 23:09:34 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: 1967

Hey, why didn't you use the centerfold layout for this picture?


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible,  '72
Vista Cruiser, '80 GMC

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 01:38:28 EDT
From: <Mjwrew@aol.com>
Subject: 75 hurst/olds interior

hi,
I am the proud owner of a 75 hurst olds W-25. I have just purchased the car
and trying to get some info. The car though in drivable condition is missing
alot of interior trim. most of which is around the t-tops. does anyone have
any pictures of this area or leads on where to find these pieces? Also the
hurst digital tac is inoperable. where would be the best place to have it
fixed?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 01:40:57 EDT
From: <Mjwrew@aol.com>
Subject: starter over heat

have a 70 455 that starts fine cold but after driving it for a while really
labors to start if at all. wait an hour or two and it starts fine.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 01:50:10 EDT
From: <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Georgia Cars

In a message dated 8/27/98 12:44:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
ferguson@1stnetusa.com writes:

<< I saw an ad in a local paper for an '86 442.  I phoned the guy and he told
 me it was originally a Georgia car and had been here in Southern California
 for a few years.

 Being a Canadian transplant, I think I have seen both ends of the rust
 spectrum but was wondering how Georgia cars rate?

 Does anyone have an idea what these cars are going for and if they are
 going up or down in value? He "says" it has 107K miles and is in good shape.

 Do all these cars have the T-tops or was it an option?

 What are the weak points to look out for? >>

i live in south carolina, and i have a '78 cutlass.  my parents bought it new,
and its still with me.  20 years later, and most of the stuff still looks new
underneath.  close to zero rust on the axle housing.  this car was taken care
of, though.  southern cars are MUCH better than the salty northern cars.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 01:58:22 -0400
From: Kyle Roe <karoe@us.ibm.com>
Subject: '65 Jetstar 1

Thought someone might be interested. I talked to a guy today on an ad in the
Thrifty Nickel. He (claims) has a '65 Jetstar1, 2dr, White with black buckets,
auto, a/c, pw. Currently a 350-4, TH400, and claims originally a 425, TH400 (2
different trannys, one in car and original one). Has complete extra front clip
in good shape, extra rear glass in good shape, unrusted body, yada yada yada.
Asking  $1600, neg.
Anyone want me to go look for them ? I am not interested, but will give it a
good once over, report back and put you in touch with this man.

Kyle
'70 442 Ragtop

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 02:18:17 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: 72 H/O paint questions

Hi Gang!

The 72 H/O is heading for the paint shop Sunday and I have a couple of
questions.

My paint guy asked me what type of paint I preferred. I prefer to go the
basecoat/clearcoat route, but my concern is with originality.  The car will
be 100% original as soon as I replace the Torker intake, C-heads, and dual
snorkel air cleaner. The original paint is enamel, yes?

If I decided to show the car at some point or sell it (don't plan to,
but...)
would the car be judged lower or be valued less with a basecoat/clearcoat
type paint job?

If I go with a clearcoat, he wanted to know if I wanted to clearcoat over
the new decals? He said he has seen other guys do this, although he doesn't
do it unless the customer requests it.

Has anyone here seen or done this and if  so would you recommend
clearcoating over the decals?

One last question, the car is a hardtop and I was considering putting the
lettering on the doors. I know only the convertibles would have been true
pace cars (the 2 VC's also) but I like the way it looks with the pace car
lettering. What would be the drawbacks to doing this?
It's the originality thing again, plus I don't want to go to a show or
cruise and P.O. any other H/O owners off.

I'd really appreciate your comments.

TIA,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 02:28:05 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: starter over heat

>have a 70 455 that starts fine cold but after driving it for a while really
>labors to start if at all. wait an hour or two and it starts fine.

Well, there's a couple things you can do. Install a heat shield, heavier
battery cables help (less resistance), or install a second battery in
parallel. Still 12v but twice the amps. (actually the sum of the amperage of
both batteries)

Just my 2 cents,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 02:43:06 -0500 (EST)
From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu>
Subject: re: starter problems

Matt (is it you that's having the trouble?  I'm a bit behind in mail...
like several digests worth... hope I"m not just restating someone elses
advice...)

congrats on the new '70.  Gonna add pics. to your website soon?  ;-)

Try running a wire directly from the battery to the starter selenoid... if
it turns over... you've got electrical problems... do your interior lights
(not headlights) work?  I had a simialar problem in my '74 Delta 88 and it
turned out to be a main power wire that had corroded in two somehow
invisibly beneath the insulation.  If it doesn't turn over when you put
power to the selenoid... bad starter (Know it's new... but have gotten a
bad one before myself did new starter come with new selenoyd (sorry it's
too late to spell thing correctly) or did you reuse your old one). Know
you've mentioned that the battery is charged... try swapping battery to
your '73 just to be sure...




    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
 |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
 |  |  |
 |  |  |
 | / \ |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
 |/   \|
  \   /      1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
   \ /          (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
    |           http://www.442.com/pierce.html
	     1980 Rover 3500 SD1
		(215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/othercars.html
	     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
		(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/bonneville.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 03:04:06 -0500 (EST)
From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu>
Subject: re:  FINALLY figured it out! (was starter problems)

Ahh... looks as if I WAS very behind on my mail... glad ya' figured it
out!

BTW, had the exact same problem w/ a wiper motor on my '84 Cutlass...
has ground straps on it... and one was broken... to your credit... it took
me about 2 days longer to figure that one out than it took you ;-)

Good luck w/ school... I'm starting back next Tuesday too...


    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
 |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
 |  |  |     work:  GQPR12E@Prodigy.com
 |  |  |
 | / \ |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
 |/   \|
  \   /      1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
   \ /          (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
    |           http://www.442.com/pierce.html
	     1980 Rover 3500 SD1
		(215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/othercars.html
	     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
		(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/bonneville.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 04:33:52 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Re: Georgia Cars

> I saw an ad in a local paper for an '86 442.  I phoned the guy and he told
> me it was originally a Georgia car and had been here in Southern California
> for a few years.


Hi Lloyd,

     How much did this fellow want for the '86 442???????????
     Does it still have the factory chrome wheels with it and not all
these cars have a T-top.

Mike.....
Ironto Va
'86 442
'86 Supreme
'71 Monte



       "Still crazy.......after all these years......"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 06:47:03 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: transmission probs.

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	senator@mail.chorus.net (Robert F. Newbegin)
Subject: transmission probs.

Well, I just got home, my mother had to give me a ride home, since my
transmission no longer shifts out of first.  I can go to park, reverse,
neutral, and drive, but when in drive, it doesn't go up to 2nd or 3rd.  I
tried using S and L (1st and 2nd only) but it still didn't work. So I'll
have to take it to a tranny shop tomorrow (not easy, top speed is about 25
mph) and have it fixed.  The car is a 1978 Cutlass Supreme w/350 cid and
TH350.  Has a shift kit, don't know if the trans.  is original.

Any ideas before going to a pro?

Bob         '78 CS

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 06:48:29 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 3.4L Engine

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Peter van der Wijngaard" <forwine@cgocable.net>
Subject: Engine

Hi All,

Thanks for the great respons on my earlier question.

I Have a '91 Cutlass Supreme 3.4 V6 and I just wondered who made this engine
and in how many other cars, brands, models it has been used. I have noro
problem gettting parts so I thought it might have been used in many other
cars. Anyone please btw the car is extremely fast:-)

Peter(simonp@cgocable.net)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 06:49:36 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Front Suspension/Wheels

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Mike Druger" <mdruger@email.msn.com>
Subject: H*lp with aggressive handling performance on a 71 Cutlass S

I'm looking to put some really phat tires and shiney new wheels under my '71
Olds Cutlass S to give it more precise handling.  Eventually, I will add
some performance to the 350 V8 under the hood.  But, I thought I'd work from
the ground up.  I've already replaced the rear coil springs and used "KYB
Gas Adjust shocks" with new front and rear sway bars all supplied by PST.  I
want to replace the old deteriorated rubber bushings with PST polygraphite
bushings, but replacing bushings is a little tougher than the PST video lead
me to believe.  I also could not remove the front coil springs.
Unfortunately, I think I did more damage trying to get them out, than what I
set out to repair!  So, I'm waiting to gain enough confidence to go under
the car with a chisel and break off the old rusted and frozen on bolts that
hold the front and rear control arms to the frame.  But, before I give up
and ask a real mechanic to do this, I'll spring for new wheels.  At least
the car will look somewhat respectable after I throw in the towel.

I'm looking to place wider tires and larger rims, but do not know how wide I
can go.  I checked the existing wheels and they are a meager 215/70 - 14
with a 4" offset on the rims.  I want to go to a 15"X8" wheel (4" offset)
and place at least a 255/50 - 15.  I want to keep the wheel diameter at
approx 25".  Does anyone have any suggestions on a good tire size and what
will fit without rubbing the fenders?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 06:35:51 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: Mission Fast Street Car Impossible

How would you turbo charge an Olds 455 anyway?  Just curious.


======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
17 Wins 11 Losses
======================
	Has anyone tried turbo charging a 455 Olds??   Sounds like
streetable
	fun to me! :-)

	Chad Schwartz
	chads@pcsco.com <mailto:chads@pcsco.com>
	mIRC: ROCKN6
	Denison, IA
	'87 GN  T-Tops (TE-44, 40lb Inj, Modified Stock IC, ATR Cam, JC
Chip,
	                          ATR 2 ½" SS Exhaust, TH 3" DP, 3" Test
Pipe,
	ATR
	                          Ram Air)
	'79 H/O T-Tops (400 HP/430 TQ ZZ4 350 H.O. Chevy, TH350, 3.73 Posi)

	"Poverty Is Owning A Race Car"  "Happiness Is A Low E.T."
	

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 07:38:43 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: What is wrong with V6 3.8? Was:(Re: A couple questions for the
folks in O...

>there is nothing wrong w/ the v-6 3.8 my 85 cutlass has the V-6 in it and
it
>has some power and it wont die it has almost 180,000 miles on it still runs
>pefect

You got lucky. These motors aren't famous for long life.

>the side of the road with a ton of smoke coming out of the engine and the
>other one when the neddle disappeared on my speedometer so did the rustang


He probably dropped back to avoid getting your oil fumes on his car ;)

I've had 2 Olds' with V-6's and neither were exactly "quick". They wear main
bearings out, make bottom end noises, snap camshafts, wear cam lobes, toss
rods, and are a royal pain in the butt to work on. That #6 spark plug is
almost impossible to get out. Wouldn't want another one.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 07:39:44 EDT
From: DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: 75 hurst/olds interior

In a message dated 8/27/1998 12:42:54 AM Central Daylight Time, Mjwrew@aol.com
writes:

<< hi,
 I am the proud owner of a 75 hurst olds W-25. I have just purchased the car
 and trying to get some info. The car though in drivable condition is missing
 alot of interior trim. most of which is around the t-tops. does anyone have
 any pictures of this area or leads on where to find these pieces? Also the
 hurst digital tac is inoperable. where would be the best place to have it
 fixed? >>

I will probally be parting out a 75 Hurst/Olds this fall, it has all the
interior parts but the body is shot,,, if at all interested i will also be
selling a very nice 75 Hurst/Olds W-25 soon,,, please reply to
DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com
thankyou, Jeffrey Fieldsend
Board of Director , Oldsmobile Cutlass Coupes 73-77
http://members.aol.com/cutlascoup/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 07:05:42 -0500
From: "Kijowski, Stan" <SKIJOWSKI@midland.com>
Subject: RE: FINALLY figured it out! (was starter problems)

don't feel bad. i think each and every one of us has done something like
this.

> ----------
> From: 	Matt Cremean[SMTP:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Wednesday, August 26, 1998 6:08 PM
> To: 	Oldsmobile List
> Subject: 	FINALLY figured it out! (was starter problems)
>
> I suck....
> I'm dumb...
>
> Remember how I said that I had switched the purple and yellow wires
> around and it still didn't work? Well, it never occoured to me that the
> starter had to be bolted in to be grounded, not just dangling below. So,
> I switched the wires, BOLTED IT BACK TO THE BLOCK, then she turned over
> and fired up like a dream...a $300 dream anyway :-)
>
> Thanx for the help, guys....
>
> --
> *************
> Matt Cremean
> mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
>          777777 33333
>             77      33
> Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
>           77        33
>          77     33333
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
> **************************************************
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 08:38:24 EDT
From: <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: Re: PARTS LIST

hay jim..where in the blue field will you be.....


you got the dates WRONG    it's sept 17-20th...

thanks   jeff....

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 08:03:47 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: M21 & M22 Transmissions

Steve and all others,
I did a little measuring last night.  The length of the shaft from the
tranny/bell housing mating surface of the tranny to the tip of the shaft
measured 7 inches.  (This may or may not be exact, but it is close enough
since I did not want to drag them down from the top of the garage, so I
measured them where they  are stored)  The tip of the shaft that goes into the
pilot bushing is 1 inch from the splined part out.  I measured both M20 and
M21, wide and close ratio, and found no difference.  Steve, check these
against your trannies and let us know how things compare.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 07:55:06 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: Georgia Cars

>Being a Canadian transplant, I think I have seen both ends of the rust
>spectrum but was wondering how Georgia cars rate?

Since I am from Indiana and quite familiar with rust, I have always admired
southern cars.  As a general rule all true southern cars are pretty rust free.
The only rusty cars you will find in the south are northern transplants that
have seen too much road salt and cars from any of the coastal areas that have
been exposed to salt water.  Just about everything inland is solid.  Living
where I do, I see a lot of Chicago area used cars heading south on auto
transporters to used car dealers in the south.  These are mostly late models
as all cars once were, so beware.

My $.02
Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 08:32:15 -0500
From: Chad Schwartz <ChadS@pcsco.com>
Subject: Re: Mission Fast Street Car Impossible

>I've got a simple, more feasible option than a turbo 455. Just build a
ROCK
>SOLID big valve, moderate cam, nodular crank, forged piston, super
balanced,
>ported and milled 455 that will turn 400 hp. Easy so far right? On your
ROCK
>SOLID 455, stick a heavy dose nitrous kit, and blast off. If you build
it
>solid enough, the motor will even take the occasional 500 hp dose of
>nitrous. But let's go conservative, stick to 250-300 hp of nitrous. If
my
>addition is correct, that equal 650-700 hp on a very streetable car. If
you
>go with the radical 500 hp kit ;-), then we're talking 900 hp. I'd go
>looking for GN's in THAT! (with my AC, and my power brakes, and my
stereo
>going)

>GAS IS CHEAP NOW!

That sounds like loads of fun also!  The NOS hits really hard and fast!
Especially a 500 hp dose!  Give me a ride when you have it ready! :-)

Chad Schwartz
chads@pcsco.com <mailto:chads@pcsco.com>
mIRC: ROCKN6
Denison, IA
'87 GN  T-Tops (TE-44, 40lb Inj, Modified Stock IC, ATR Cam, JC Chip,
                          ATR 2 ½" SS Exhaust, TH 3" DP, 3" Test Pipe,
ATR
                          Ram Air)
'79 H/O T-Tops (400 HP/430 TQ ZZ4 350 H.O. Chevy, TH350, 3.73 Posi)

"Poverty Is Owning A Race Car"  "Happiness Is A Low E.T."

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 06:53:07 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Starter, multitester was: starter problems, please h*lp

> Acquire for yourselves a GOOD multitester.
[...]
> I plan on getting a NICE one from Active Electronics (a retailer).

In the Chicago area there's also Joseph Electronics on Milwaukee
Ave. just north of Dempster, and Tri-State Electronics on Northwest
Highway just south of Central in Mount Prospect, IL. (Actually I
thought "Tri-State" referred to the three stages of motoring as
outlined by Corvette owners: Drive Home, Limp Home and Walk Home...)
Heck, for that matter you could go to Rat Shack, too...

>Andy Green?
>Do you have a favorite brand?

Not particularly; I think it's mainly important just to have one at
all; you don't often need excruciatingly-accurate readings. I like
the old sweep-needle type, but electronic/digital types are the
only ones you can use when diagnosing some signal circuits.

>Or do you have a Fluke tester?

Nope, although I hear they're really nice; wouldn't mind if I did.

>For that matter do you have an Oldsmobile?
>
>Whoops!
>Sorry!

Not at all; I am an Oldsmobile Consultant. This means that I do
not actually _own_ one, but I do watch them on TV.

>Started to flame Andy!
>
>Dint mean it!  (much!)

Hmph. The next time you need six pages on How to Empty the Ashtray,
don't come crying to me.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 10:00:41 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: index plugs

In a message dated 98-08-26 15:22:24 EDT, you write:

<< . The purchase of a shim kit is needed. >>

Hmmm.

I just over-or under tightened slightly to get in the area of where the
exhaust port should be, which I determined by looking at the manifold.

And Sam?
Ideally you would index all eight, but without shims it is TOUGH to get them
all right there.

Chris?

IS the spark plug in the center of the cylinder head volume? (Mebbe I'm
thinking of Ch*tty heads, but though plug was on the side, between valves. In
which case you cannot ignite in the center anyway? So, why not nearer the
exhaust port?

And yeah, I prolly read about it in Ch*tty Craft.

But it occurs to me that I figured out what it was initially by paging through
Jeg's and reading about the indexing kits.

Anyway, indexing is setting the plug so that the electrode faces SOMETHING
specific.

Make Big Block Oldsmobiles, Not Foreign Policy.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 10:08:29 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Jetting Carb

In a message dated 98-08-26 16:39:17 EDT, you write:

<< On the other hand, setting the choke would pull more fuel and reduce the
need to pump accelerator pump. The thing that suprises me is how well the
engine starts with choking. Of course, it has been very warm this past month,
so I have not had to try to start very cold. >>

The purpose of the choke is to "create" a vaccuum condition in the primaries
when there is NO manifold vaccuum. This artificial vaccuum (choke closed)
draws more gas from the venturi and sometimes even from the air bleeds!

The reason that you crank and crank is:

1) not enough manifold vacc so little fuel draw (aside from the pump shots)

2) gas is condensing in your intake because car cold and little vaccuum.

But I am a fine one to talk, I need to lean my choke some and adjust the fast
idle.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 09:07:28 -0600
From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@interaccess.com>
Subject: Re: Speedo drive gear

Shang wrote:
>
> Does anyone know the correct number of teeth/color of the speedo gear
> for an '86-'87 442 with a 2004R and 3.73?
>
From the '86 Service Manual:

For a 3.73 with 6KZF Trans and P215/65R15 tires Drive Gear is Green with
10 teeth, Driven gear is Blue with 30 teeth.

HTH...

- --
- ---Matt
Chicago, IL

- --------------------------------------------------------
mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
- --------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 10:27:36 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: rear gears and diff. are in!!! finally

Well, I finally got the my much awaited 10-bolt limited slip 3.42
differential completed yesterday. And wow, what a difference over the 2.73
gearing I had. Night and day. One thing that the mechanic that installed my
gear observed, was the angle of my diff. He thinks that the diff. is leaning
too forward and is offsetting my drive shaft angle. We put an angle finder
on the top side of drive shaft and it indicated about 13 deg. Also noticed
that the shaft was seated to far into the tranny. It had about .5 to .75 in.
play. He said it should have at least 1 in. play to allow shaft movement.
Anyway, I did replace the lower control arms from the open type to the
boxed, which I got from a '72 Cutlass. I need to measure my original and
compare the difference. Although he said, the upper may have caused the
diff, angle to change. Not sure why because I did not change the upper
control arms nor the upper bushings. Anyone have any thoughts on why this is
the case or not?


Fernando Proietto
Systems Analyst - Informatics Division
Environment Canada
Atmospheric Environment Branch - Ontario Region
4905 Dufferin St.
Downsview, Ontario
M3H 5T4

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 10:34:51 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Mission Fast Street Car Impossible

How did you know? ;-)

- -----Original Message-----

>
>That sounds like loads of fun also!  The NOS hits really hard and fast!
>Especially a 500 hp dose!  Give me a ride when you have it ready! :-)
>
>Chad Schwartz
>chads@pcsco.com <mailto:chads@pcsco.com>
>mIRC: ROCKN6
>Denison, IA
>'87 GN  T-Tops (TE-44, 40lb Inj, Modified Stock IC, ATR Cam, JC Chip,
>                          ATR 2 ½" SS Exhaust, TH 3" DP, 3" Test Pipe,
>ATR
>                          Ram Air)
>'79 H/O T-Tops (400 HP/430 TQ ZZ4 350 H.O. Chevy, TH350, 3.73 Posi)
>
>"Poverty Is Owning A Race Car"  "Happiness Is A Low E.T."
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 09:36:32 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: rear gears and diff. are in!!! finally

Assuming you've swapped one housing for another, what are the years of
the old diff housing and the new diff housing?  If, for example, you
have a 70 Cutlass with original 10 bolt and replaced it with a 65 10
bolt, the pinion angle will have changed, not to mention the length is
different, by like 1" or so.  Of course if you just changed the 'guts'
(technical term) of your current housing this is a mute point.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 08:54:47 -0600
From: Dave Orth <Dave@profitsystems.net>
Subject: Fixed - Starter "issue"

Thanks to Frederick Nissen, he told me the drive actuator was sticking and
to replace the starter.  I did,  It worked like a champ afterwards, and I
drove the Hurst to work today.
Now, I can get back to assembing and painting the replacement engine for it.


PROFITsystems, Inc.


Dave Orth
Systems Administrator

1-800-888-5565
(719) 578-9506 (fax)
E-mail: dave@profitsystems.net
Web Site:  www.profitsystems.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 11:01:53 EDT
From: <KWhite5590@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Georgia Cars

Lloyd,

   I am the second owner of an 83 Cutlass Supreme Brougham.
   This car was ordered by the original owner at Charles Lee Olds
   in Rockwood Tn.the car is now 15 years old and still has nothing
   more than light surface rust on the rear end and the occasional
   spot on the frame.So yes southern cars are nore or less rust free

  Kevin White
  83 Cutlass Supreme
  FE3X clone

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 10:37:46 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Hotchkis B and C body arms- Re: broken lower control arms

- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 8:51 PM
Subject: RE: broken lower control arms


>Does or would Hotchkis make lower control arms for
>B or C body big Olds? What's their number so I might
>give them call.
>
>I've found this a weak spot in the design of the mid-60s
>big cars and would like a solution I can depend on at 80mph.
>The suspension arms are the only things (besides spindles)
>that I worry about @80mph on the fwy.
>
>Breaking A-arms will ruin your whole day. Lower trailing arms
>too, but then I've told those stories here before.
>
>cf
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Gregory Zimmerman [mailto:zimmermangm@email.msn.com]
>> Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 2:41 PM
>> To: Olds list
>> Subject: broken lower control arms
>>
>!
>>
>> anyway, they are awesome and made a big difference.  I would
recommend
>> them if your stock suspension is in need of replacement.  The kit
is
>> $510, and labor was $270 counting a front end alighnment.
>>
>> -greg

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 10:43:35 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Hotchkis arms: sorry list!

I'm sorry about the previous two blank posts I made.  I just woke up
and hit the send button before I even typed anything...twice!  Again,
my apologies.

I don't know if Hotchkis makes arms for the B and C body Olds.  They
don't say Olds, but say "Chevelle" instead.   In tiny fine print on
the back it says cars include: Buick, Chevrolet, Oldsmobile, and
Pontiac.   But the arms are the same.  They list GM A and G body,
modern F body, and caprice/impala SS.  give them a call, they might be
able to help though.

562-907-7757
hperf@aol.com

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 10:38:34 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Hotchkis arms (the real post)Re: broken lower control arms

- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 8:51 PM
Subject: RE: broken lower control arms


>Does or would Hotchkis make lower control arms for
>B or C body big Olds? What's their number so I might
>give them call.
>
>I've found this a weak spot in the design of the mid-60s
>big cars and would like a solution I can depend on at 80mph.
>The suspension arms are the only things (besides spindles)
>that I worry about @80mph on the fwy.
>
>Breaking A-arms will ruin your whole day. Lower trailing arms
>too, but then I've told those stories here before.
>
>cf
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Gregory Zimmerman [mailto:zimmermangm@email.msn.com]
>> Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 2:41 PM
>> To: Olds list
>> Subject: broken lower control arms
>>
>!
>>
>> anyway, they are awesome and made a big difference.  I would
recommend
>> them if your stock suspension is in need of replacement.  The kit
is
>> $510, and labor was $270 counting a front end alighnment.
>>
>> -greg

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 17:53:25 +0200
From: "TRONDJARLE PEDERSEN" <trondped@c2i.net>
Subject: SV: Mission Fast Street Car Impossible

You wrote:
How would you turbo charge an Olds 455 anyway?  Just curious.

>well I have been playing with the idea fore some time
Here are my thougts:
definently twinturbos mutch simpler to work with
you dont have to make/change the intake
I have 2 garret t03 (from my volvo turbo days)they should be large anuff
thise babys have the wastegatevalve (presurereulator) integrale with the
turbinehosing I have to: 1. make/modify exaust manifoils 2. make a pipe/hose
frome the pressure side on the turbos to a plenum chamber over the carburator 
3.
modify the carb, so that it can handle presure (its easy just have to plugg 
some
holes) 4. finde a plase to drain oilpresure (oil pr,sender mayby) 5. Hi vol, 
oil
pump is a must 6. modify the oilsump to aksept a hose frome the turbos 7. 2.k/n
konical turbo airfilters 8. motor oil coler 9.a new camshaft (thoug a regulare
cam would work i would consider one with sligtly more lobeseparatione)

mix and match and mount these things togheter and adjust timing, carb and boost
I gues that this settup will bring me on (guessing) about 500hk+, depending on
bost lewel. and i would still have bottom end power, drivabillity,and (well
some) ekonomy

happy oldsmobiling

     Trond

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 12:12:57 -0400
From: "Weaver, Stanleigh G" <Stanleigh.Weaver@PHL.Boeing.com>
Subject: G-body computer deletion

G-body members,

Could someone that has deleted the computer from their G-body Olds
please e-mail me privately and explain steps involved to do this??

thanks in advance,
Stan

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 12:29:54 EDT
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Mission Fast Street Car Impossible

In a message dated 8/26/98, 9:34:30 PM, oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca writes:
<<i sure would like a supercharger, but you do have to build the engine up
pretty stout for both nitrous and the blowers.  so add in $2500 or so for a
built 455.  now, blower or nitrous....  well, paxton superchargers run about
$2000 flat i think, and the 200hp or so nitrous kits are what, about $350?
personally, i would take the blower just because im lazy and wouldnt want to
get my nitrous bottle refilled.  if you just race the car on weekends tho,
nitrous is definately the way to go.  well, thats the way i see it, anyways,
not that it matters.....:-)>>
I bought a paxton with no brackets in englishtown swap meet for $300. I also
bought an adjustable NOS kit for $150. Buy the way i also have a paxton with
125hp NOS on a otherwise stock 305 chevy with TPI. I dont use the juice often
but upto now she still runs

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 12:55:50 EDT
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Mission Fast Street Car Impossible

In a message dated 8/27/98 8:47:15 AM EST, ChadS@pcsco.com writes:

<<  If
 you
 >go with the radical 500 hp kit ;-), then we're talking 900 hp. I'd go
 >looking for GN's in THAT! (with my AC, and my power brakes, and my
 stereo
 >going)

 >GAS IS CHEAP NOW!

 That sounds like loads of fun also!  The NOS hits really hard and fast!
 Especially a 500 hp dose!  Give me a ride when you have it ready! :-)

 Chad Schwartz >>

Good point.  The idea of NOS is a good one, but the system had better be a
"staged" one, rather than a full dump of juice.  BTW, I do agree with the
original post.  NOS would be a great "weekend drag" type of thing, with the
occasional "setting 'em straight" on the street (certainly don't condone
>THAT<  :-).  In comparison the to the addition of a Paxton supercharger...
The Paxton won't deliver that much HP (10 lbs. is a good boost, but not >that<
good), plus you'll run the Paxton all the time (whereas the nitrous is off
when un-needed).  Running a very hot motor like this, you'll find little need
for more power on a regular basis, making the Paxton a little pointless (this
is a 455... remember).  You could always run both, right?  Is the Paxton
capable of running NOS?

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 13:07:54 EDT
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: putting in a head gasket??

i need to put a new head gasket in my V-6 3.8 its an 82 cutlass and i have
never done one before and i want to know if i should try to do it myself/or
take it some where.  Is it hard to do if not if some could just tell me how to
do it or just where to start  TIA      Rich

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 13:13:45 EDT
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: 75 hurst/olds interior

In a message dated 8/26/98, 10:42:20 PM, oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca writes:
<<I am the proud owner of a 75 hurst olds W-25. I have just purchased the car
and trying to get some info. The car though in drivable condition is missing
alot of interior trim. most of which is around the t-tops.>>
What trim are you missing the rubber glues to the headliner all around the t-
top so you only need 4 pieces of trim which the t-top latch clamps on when you
close them. Thats the way it is on my car with the Hurst Hatch.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 13:56:07 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: rear gears and diff. are in!!! finally

To my knowledge I used the diff. housing from a '71-'72 Cutlass. The axle
tube code is SB - indicating a limited-slip 2.73 diff. That's was it was,
the gear at least. The code does match what Oldsmobile printed in it's
chassis manual. Did other year/make models use this exact code as well? I'm
thinking that it is possible that the yoke on the housing was changed to a
longer one, which would explain the drive shaft problem. But my original
yoke on the diff I replaced measures the same, so where's the problem?
Someone know how much space should be between the drive shaft and the tranny
tail when installed?

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Smetana, Christopher [SMTP:csmetana@dowagro.com]
> Sent:	Thursday, August 27, 1998 10:37 AM
> To:	'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject:	RE: rear gears and diff. are in!!! finally
>
> Assuming you've swapped one housing for another, what are the years of
> the old diff housing and the new diff housing?  If, for example, you
> have a 70 Cutlass with original 10 bolt and replaced it with a 65 10
> bolt, the pinion angle will have changed, not to mention the length is
> different, by like 1" or so.  Of course if you just changed the 'guts'
> (technical term) of your current housing this is a mute point.
>
> Chris Smetana
> Terre Haute, IN
> work: csmetana@dowagro.com
> home: chris@abcs.com
>
> 1969 W-31
> 1969 4-4-2 parts car
> plus others
> >

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 14:12:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Fuel Pump/Regulator/Line ??

Having discovered that my Holley mechanical fuel pump (60gph) did not
deliver enough fuel for wide open throttle for the 455 I am in need of
some recommendations

1.  I would like to stay with a mechanical pump. Who makes Mondello;s HP465?
Are there other options to Mondello parts? I need about 100-120 gph pump.
2.  What regulators have a good reputation for efficiency and reliability?
3.  I plan to replace the stock fuel line with 1/2" flex hose.  What sixe
are the fittings at the tank?
4.  Are filters just filters or is there a preferred brand
5.  Does the fuel tank sock really do anything or can it be removed and
not replaced?

Thanks

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 13:21:56 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: Fuel Pump/Regulator/Line ??

How do you know if your fuel pump is delivering enough gas at wide open
throttle?

======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
17 Wins 11 Losses
======================


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	The Viking [SMTP:avar@infinet.com]
	Sent:	Thursday, August 27, 1998 1:13 PM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	Fuel Pump/Regulator/Line ??


	Having discovered that my Holley mechanical fuel pump (60gph) did
not
	deliver enough fuel for wide open throttle for the 455 I am in need
of
	some recommendations

	1.  I would like to stay with a mechanical pump. Who makes
Mondello;s HP465?
	Are there other options to Mondello parts? I need about 100-120 gph
pump.
	2.  What regulators have a good reputation for efficiency and
reliability?
	3.  I plan to replace the stock fuel line with 1/2" flex hose.  What
sixe
	are the fittings at the tank?
	4.  Are filters just filters or is there a preferred brand
	5.  Does the fuel tank sock really do anything or can it be removed
and
	not replaced?

	Thanks

	Al Varhus
	Columbus, Ohio
	http://www.infinet.com/~avar
	http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
	Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
	  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
	  Gem City Rockets
	

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 14:24:19 EDT
From: Mjwrew@aol.com
Subject: Re: 75 hurst/olds interior

i am missing the trim that the t-top clamps to which runs behind the door
glass and forward of the door glass. also the upper qtr trim panel where the
side glass usually is.
thanks
rene

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 14:24:45 -0400
From: olds@interconti.com
Subject: Conv. Top Bow??

         Hello all -

         I am looking for a Top Bow for a 1970 cutlass Supreme.
         I think that is what it is called, it's the very front
         section of the convertible top frame that rests on the
         windshield.

         Anyone have any ideas where to get one?

         thanks,
         SB

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 14:25:39 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Transmission Identification

Fellow Rocket Men,

I need a bit of help identifying the transmission that was originally in
my car (the current transmission is not original).  I found the original
production sheet, but I don't know what the codes mean.  First of all,
the title on the sheet is, "Oldsmobile Production Code '3' 1971 Model."
The code given for the transmission is "LA" and the code given for the
trans mount is "1."

What do these codes, primarily the "LA" code, mean?

I have since filed the Production Sheet away for physical safekeeping.
I have also scanned it and saved the scan to disk for "virtual"
safekeeping.

Thanks much,

Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 14:48:13 -0400
From: Alice Bryant <acb@fp1.fmc.sc.edu>
Subject: 87 olds

87 olds fuel pump has been replace three times.  Each time it runs for
2-3 days and stops.  Do you know what is causing this?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 14:50:36 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: rear gears and diff. are in!!! finally

In a message dated 98-08-27 14:04:20 EDT, you write:

<< To my knowledge I used the diff. housing from a '71-'72 Cutlass. The axle
 tube code is SB - indicating a limited-slip 2.73 diff. That's was it was,
 the gear at least. The code does match what Oldsmobile printed in it's
 chassis manual. Did other year/make models use this exact code as well? I'm
 thinking that it is possible that the yoke on the housing was changed to a
 longer one, which would explain the drive shaft problem. But my original
 yoke on the diff I replaced measures the same, so where's the problem?
 Someone know how much space should be between the drive shaft and the tranny
 tail when installed?
  >>

  I don't think yoke length would be an issue. I *believe* the housing size
physically changed, to accomodate the smaller or larger carriers, depending on
ratio. As long as they are similar year housings, and off of same make, there
shouldn't be any length differences...as long as it was the same body,
distance from where the rear axle bolts to rear of same model transmission
wouldn't change. The top control arms affecting the angle would be correct.
They stayed the same length, so they had to pivot to accomodate whatever
length the lowers changed to.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 13:55:55 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: putting in a head gasket??

> i need to put a new head gasket in my V-6 3.8 its an 82 cutlass and i have
> never done one before and i want to know if i should try to do it myself/or
> take it some where.  Is it hard to do if not if some could just tell me how 
to
> do it or just where to start  TIA      Rich

Rich,

Why don't you get yourself a Hynes Manual from your local car part store?
There should be one covering your model and it has the description how to
exchange the gasket.
I think it is not an easy job to do when you are not experienced at all
and have no decent tools (You will need no special tools but a quality
set for ex. from craftsman)

If you need the car next day, I would maybe rather bring it to a shop.
But... that is pretty expensive and you miss a lot of fun. Also you don't
know if the shop will do the job good except you have a mechanic you
really trust in.

With my everyday driver I always do such jobs on the weekend and take my
time. I also use Hynes Manual and if you follow their step by step
description and use high quality parts you are doing it better then most
shops!

Hope this helps! Regards,

George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 13:59:56 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: paint motor

Hi Guys,

getting my engine tomorrow. I will paint it gold (original). Do you paint
it before or after assembling? I figure afterwards would be easier...
Do you paint the freeze plugs? So long,

George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 15:07:48 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Re: paint motor

Before assembly would be my choice and yea to the plugs..!!


> Hi Guys,
>
> getting my engine tomorrow. I will paint it gold (original). Do you paint
> it before or after assembling? I figure afterwards would be easier...
> Do you paint the freeze plugs? So long,
>
> George
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> '68 Cuttlass S Conv.
> http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
> --------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
       "Still crazy.......after all these years......"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 15:39:04 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Battery?  Alternator?  Exhaust Leak?

Hi list.  I haven't asked any questions of y'all for a while, so I thought
I'd take care of it in one e-mail...

1)  All of a sudden, it's hard to start my car.  I crank for 5-7 seconds and
nothing.  Then, I crank for a few more seconds and it kinda shudders to
life.  Mind you, this is when the motor's cold, but still, it used to crank
right up.  Do I need a new battery?  The current battery is a Diehard (maybe
it's dieing hard?) 84-month battery.  I'm not sure about the CCA, but it's
only 30 months old, so I don't think it should be going bad already.  Or, do
I need a new alternator?  I made a 4-hour drive a week ago, so if the
alternator's working correctly, the battery should be completely charged.
Maybe the alternator's dieing?

2)  I seem to have developed an exhaust leak ahead of the cat.  After a
thorough drive, there's a thudding sound from the lower right-hand side of
the engine.  I've always feared rod-knock, but I don't think it's that.  You
can almost hear it in the interior louder than crouching on the ground just
behind the right front tire.  Anyone had this in their G-Body before?  It's
an '84 Calais with the 307.

Thanks all.

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 14:33:05 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: Conv. Top Bow??

Try Hydro-E-Lectric for convertible top parts.  I needed the front bow like
yours, but for a full size car.  I called and they had a used one.
Great folks to deal with IMHO.

Hyrdo-E-Lectric
48 Appleton Road
Auburn, MA
01501

1-800-343-4261

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 15:02:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Battery? Alternator? Exhaust Leak?

> 1)  All of a sudden, it's hard to start my car.  I crank for 5-7 seconds and
> nothing.  Then, I crank for a few more seconds and it kinda shudders to
> life.  Mind you, this is when the motor's cold, but still, it used to crank
> right up.  Do I need a new battery?  The current battery is a Diehard (maybe
> it's dieing hard?) 84-month battery.  I'm not sure about the CCA, but it's
> only 30 months old, so I don't think it should be going bad already.  Or, do
> I need a new alternator?  I made a 4-hour drive a week ago, so if the
> alternator's working correctly, the battery should be completely charged.
> Maybe the alternator's dieing?

Hi Jason,

I am sure it is not the battery if it cranks in the right speed. It would
only be the battery when the car cranks slow, sounding weaker and slower
over the seconds as if it would not make it much longer...
Your problem sounds more like carburetor or ignition. (I don't know if
you have carb, but should be...) Are you sure your chocke works? (Take
off air cleaner when car is cold and see if choke plate closes when you
start.)
What about distributor and rotor, how do they look like? Scratch them
clean if they are corroded and maybe get new ones, that never is a bad
idea when the old ones ran for more than 10000 miles, that is cheap
maintainance.

> 2)  I seem to have developed an exhaust leak ahead of the cat.  After a
> thorough drive, there's a thudding sound from the lower right-hand side of
> the engine.  I've always feared rod-knock, but I don't think it's that.  You
> can almost hear it in the interior louder than crouching on the ground just
> behind the right front tire.  Anyone had this in their G-Body before?  It's
> an '84 Calais with the 307.

Try to find the leak with sticking in your hand to the place the sound
seems to come from. Watch for moving parts... Do this when the car is cold,
otherwise it is too hot and you can catch some blisters. You should feel the
hot exhaust coming out the leak. Check on the flanges where the exhaust
bolts on the headers first... next maybe the heads-header connection.
There is also a connection from the heads to the emission control stuff
in the back of the heads? (I am not sure about that... but that is where
my L*nc*ln rattled when i ripped out emission controls.)

Hope this helps...
George
- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 13:08:35 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission Identification

Thomas P. Smith wrote:

> Fellow Rocket Men,
>
> I need a bit of help identifying the transmission that was originally in
> my car (the current transmission is not original).  I found the original
> production sheet, but I don't know what the codes mean.  First of all,
> the title on the sheet is, "Oldsmobile Production Code '3' 1971 Model."
> The code given for the transmission is "LA" and the code given for the
> trans mount is "1."
>
> What do these codes, primarily the "LA" code, mean?
> Thomas P. Smith
> 1971 Cutlass S 350

 Thomas,
The code 3 indicates the Oldsmobile division of GM.
Code LA is for an A body TH350 trans. with a 350 engine.
Trans. mount code 1 tells the assembly line worker which mount to use.

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 15:31:08 -0500
From: "Reed, Steve" <sreed@cp.varco.com>
Subject: Year 1 Motor Mount Question

While looking thru my Year One catalog today, I noticed that the motor
mount P/N: 508N "Fits 1969 400 & 1969-72 455 V8 models.  Fits LH or RH.
Aftermarket.  Note:  This mount will not fit 1970 442 455 models."
(Catalog #R325, Pg. 112)

Why would this mount not work on '70 4-4-2's?  What makes the 70 4-4-2
mounting different?

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 13:52:07 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: UPDATE aluminum heads!

Not really...I think he means that he can achieve 85mph quicker and then
get off the accelerator and coast for a while. It is to the best of my
knowledge that changing the heads/cam/rocker arms would have NOTHING to do
with RPM at a certain speed than it was before.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: UPDATE aluminum heads!
> Date: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 6:54 PM
>
>
>
>
> > running.  However, I don't see how RPMs can drop from 3500 to 2900 with
the
> > mods you've done.  RPMs at a given MPH have nothing to do with
ignition,
> > rockers, heads, etc and everything to do with rear end ratio, tire
height, and
> > other gears.  What gives?
> >
>
> To a point it does. My engine is more efficient. I don't have to press
the gass to
> give me the output to do 85. Now my engine can run 85 mph at a lower rpm
because
> it puts out more power and does so more efficiently. Make sense? Atleast
that's my
> explanation for the awesome changes I have encountered.
>
> ben

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 16:41:01 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Hey Guys, I'm BACK!!!

Well, here I am, all nestled snug in my college dorm. Can't wait to
start the partying. Classes don't start until Monday!!!!

Olds content: Got the 70 running. Am going to get rid of the a/c, 2bbl
manifold, and rochester when I get the money and time to be home and
work on it. I'm not by any means pulling a restoration on it, just
spruce it up a little and make it ungodly fast!!!!!!!!!

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
         777777 33333
            77      33
Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
          77        33
         77     33333
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 13:36:06 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Battery? Alternator? Exhaust Leak?

> 1) All of a sudden, it's hard to start my car. I crank for 5-7
> seconds and nothing.  Then, I crank for a few more seconds and
> it kinda shudders to life.

I think it's a fuel problem; the system's draining down and takes
time to get fuel back up again. If it was electrical (e.g. low
battery), it would fire right up the instant the cylinders fired
and the alternator got up to speed. If it "shudders" to life, that
sounds to me like the fuel is slowly getting back up to full flow.
Look for leaks or a clogged filter, maybe.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1451
*********************************
