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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1458


oldsmobile-digest       Monday, August 31 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1458



Re: Red vs. Blue hi-beam indicator
SHOly Crap!!!  (Non Olds)
Re: SHOly Crap!!!  (Non Olds)
Re: Red vs. Blue hi-beam indicator
Re: SHOly Crap!!!  (Non Olds)
Re: SHOly Crap!!!  (Non Olds)
Re: Red vs. Blue hi-beam indicator
Re: Red vs. Blue hi-beam indicator
Re: SHOly Crap!!!  (Non Olds)
Re: SHOly Crap!!!  (Non Olds)
Re: Red vs. Blue hi-beam indicator
Re: MAYBE W-32?
Re: Hood Springs
Re: Hood Springs
[none]
TH-400 with overdrive?
Re: W-31 authenticity check
option production number
OLDS related...sort of
OLDS related...sort of
OLDS related...sort of
RE: TH-400 with overdrive?
Re: Paint Code
To the makers of this list
Re: Dualjet Carb.
headers for my 68 442
Looking to buy!
Re: Composite? headlights
repro hoods
Re: Red vs. Blue hi-beam indicator
RE: TH-400 with overdrive?
Re: Looking to buy!
69 cutlass for sale-follow up
Oldsmobile Books?
Re: 69 cutlass for sale-follow up
electrical problem need help!
List Notification
Re: 69 cutlass for sale-follow up
Re: 69 cutlass for sale-follow up
Re: OLDS related..bandwidth apology
Re: SHOly Crap!!!  (Non Olds)
fan clutch working?
Re: fan clutch working?
Re: Aluminum heads <Gainesville>
'66 Toro whole or for parts
Re: Oil Pressure / Oil Cooler
Re: SHOly Crap!!!  (Non Olds)
Re: Oil Pressure / Oil Cooler
Going off list for the day
Re: What is the ideal Q-jet>
Re: heads   1/8 mile (primaries & torque curve)
Re: will it work?
Re: Peter Bausch (sp?) was Re: will it work?
Re: UNBOUNCE: Engine ID

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 22:20:24 -0700
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Red vs. Blue hi-beam indicator

My 69 is blue.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================
List Removal & Guidelines
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm
- -----Original Message-----
From: WMACHINES@aol.com <WMACHINES@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, August 30, 1998 8:10 PM
Subject: Re: Red vs. Blue hi-beam indicator


>In a message dated 98-08-30 19:17:15 EDT, you write:
>
><< >Ok, another list member has asked me about the hi-beam indicator on the
> >W-30s and W-31s.  I'm pretty sure that it was red on the W-30 and blue
> >on the NON-W-30s, but I'm not sure on the W-31.  Anyone care to clear up
> >this little tidbit of info?
> >
> I think it depends on the year more than anything. 67 and down red, 68 and
> up blue.
> my 66 wagon's indicator is red and i've seen other early cars (Olds and
non
> Olds)with
> red. >>
>Nope, almost there.  They used the red highbeam light on all models up to
the
>1970 model.  In 1971 they changed over to blue
>
>W MACHINES

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 21:20:14 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: SHOly Crap!!!  (Non Olds)

Heard a rumor about a car in Havre last weekend.  1996 Taurus SHO (You know, 
the
round ugly ones, not the square ugly ones!:)  Except that this SHO came factory
with a 5.0 V8.  ~REAR WHEEL DRIVE!!!~  ~not~ all wheel drive, either.  Dual
exhaust poking out the back, and rumored to be pretty nasty.  Said he took off
from Subway, and boiled 'em off quite well.  Anyone in Oldsland run across one
of these???  If you happen across one, be forwarned, they may suprise you...
I'm hoping to find it someday, just to show it some taillights...  But I'm 
still
very impressed with the fact that it's a V8 RWD, on a V6 FWD platform.  OLDS
ENGINEERS, WHERE THE ~HELL~ ARE YOU?!?!?!?!!?!?
- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 23:33:04 -0400
From: "Michael A. Evans" <evans1@net-link.net>
Subject: Re: SHOly Crap!!!  (Non Olds)

Hey, Charley,

Having owned both versions of the SHO *currently the '96 V8 ugly one*, I've
never heard of any such beast like the one you describe, though it may be
someone's idea of one-off entertainment. ;-)  All of the '96-up V8's come
from the factory with stainless dual exhaust, and of course they're all
front wheel drive.  Since Ford doesn't even put the 5.0 in Mustangs
anymore, I can't believe they'd put one in a Taurus, either....they're all
3.4 Yamahas under the hood.

At 09:20 PM 8/30/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Heard a rumor about a car in Havre last weekend.  1996 Taurus SHO (You
know, the
>round ugly ones, not the square ugly ones!:)  Except that this SHO came
factory
>with a 5.0 V8.  ~REAR WHEEL DRIVE!!!~  ~not~ all wheel drive, either.  Dual
>exhaust poking out the back, and rumored to be pretty nasty.  Said he took
off
>from Subway, and boiled 'em off quite well.  Anyone in Oldsland run across
one
>of these???  If you happen across one, be forwarned, they may suprise you...
>I'm hoping to find it someday, just to show it some taillights...  But I'm
still
>very impressed with the fact that it's a V8 RWD, on a V6 FWD platform.  OLDS
>ENGINEERS, WHERE THE ~HELL~ ARE YOU?!?!?!?!!?!?
>--
>Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
>mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
>http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
>   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
>    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
>     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
>  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|
>
>
Mike Evans
Richland, MI

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 23:35:17 -0400
From: "Gib Loudon" <cutlass@mill.tds.net>
Subject: Re: Red vs. Blue hi-beam indicator

To whomever cares,
My car is a 69 Cutlass "S" Holiday Coupe....nothing fancy like a W30, 31, or
32, but a nice car.....The High beam indicator on my (all original) car is
RED.  Just thought I'd add to the confusion.  Hope that helps.

Gib Loudon (a.k.a. "The Rocketman")
1969 Cutlass "S" Holiday Coupe
("Reb Thunder")
Check out Cutlass Net at:
http://www.cutlass.net
cutlass@mill.tds.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 21:36:15 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: SHOly Crap!!!  (Non Olds)

> Having owned both versions of the SHO *currently the '96 V8 ugly one*, I've
> never heard of any such beast like the one you describe, though it may be
> someone's idea of one-off entertainment. ;-)

Hmm...  Maybe it wasn't the 5.0, don't know at all.  Powell ~swore~ it was an
RWD V8, and I'm sure he said it had 5.0 on it somewhere.  Said it was a special
order car, too.  I guess next time I'm up there, I'll be trying to find it and
get some pictures.  (GAK!!! ME, taking pictures of a ~fo*d~?!?!?


- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 23:52:10 EDT
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: SHOly Crap!!!  (Non Olds)

In a message dated 8/30/98 11:34:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
buehner@lyrea.com writes:

<< Heard a rumor about a car in Havre last weekend.  1996 Taurus SHO (You
know, the
 round ugly ones, not the square ugly ones!:)  Except that this SHO came
factory
 with a 5.0 V8.  ~REAR WHEEL DRIVE!!!~  ~not~ all wheel drive, either.  Dual
 exhaust poking out the back, and rumored to be pretty nasty.  Said he took
off
 from Subway, and boiled 'em off quite well.  Anyone in Oldsland run across
one
 of these???  If you happen across one, be forwarned, they may suprise you...
 I'm hoping to find it someday, just to show it some taillights...  But I'm
still
 very impressed with the fact that it's a V8 RWD, on a V6 FWD platform.  OLDS
 ENGINEERS, WHERE THE ~HELL~ ARE YOU?!?!?!?!!?!? >>

are you talking about the old ones?  bout '93 or so?  if so, i had one of
these hang with me on the interstate one night.  i was driving along at a
pretty fast pace and this car was for some reason staying behind me.  hmmm...
"floor it, and lets see if he stays close..." i thought.  hah.  floored it,
ran up to about 110 or so, and the headlights stayed right where they were.
then i got off on my exit and when he passed i saw "S H O" on the back bumper.
i was impressed.
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 23:58:23 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Red vs. Blue hi-beam indicator

> My car is a 69 Cutlass "S" Holiday Coupe....nothing fancy like a W30, 31, or
> 32, but a nice car.....The High beam indicator on my (all original) car is
> RED.  Just thought I'd add to the confusion.  Hope that helps.
>
Arrgh!  Maybe I'm dillusional.  I know I have a red one in the 69, and
my 71 has a blue one.  I know it REALLY doesn't make a difference, but
this discussion doesn't seem like it's turning up anything definitive.
What I have figured out so far, in my opinion, all the cars up TO 71
should have red, and 71 on should have blue.  That's what I'm getting
outta this.  But I guess the world may never know.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 00:06:36 -0400
From: "Jim & Joanne Chermack" <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Red vs. Blue hi-beam indicator

WMACHINES was  correct in stating that the blue indicator was used after a
certain month in 71. I had an early 71 with a red indicator and have seen
lots of later ones with the blue. This is NOT a way to tell if a car is a
W-30 or anything.

Jim Chermack


- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Rothe. <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 31, 1998 12:03 AM
Subject: Re: Red vs. Blue hi-beam indicator


>> My car is a 69 Cutlass "S" Holiday Coupe....nothing fancy like a W30, 31,
or
>> 32, but a nice car.....The High beam indicator on my (all original) car
is
>> RED.  Just thought I'd add to the confusion.  Hope that helps.
>>
>Arrgh!  Maybe I'm dillusional.  I know I have a red one in the 69, and
>my 71 has a blue one.  I know it REALLY doesn't make a difference, but
>this discussion doesn't seem like it's turning up anything definitive.
>What I have figured out so far, in my opinion, all the cars up TO 71
>should have red, and 71 on should have blue.  That's what I'm getting
>outta this.  But I guess the world may never know.
>
>Mike Rothe
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 22:14:53 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: SHOly Crap!!!  (Non Olds)

> OLDS ENGINEERS, WHERE THE ~HELL~ ARE YOU?!?!?!?!!?!?

> are you talking about the old ones?  bout '93 or so?  if so,

No, the ~new~ ones, '96+, all rounded, with the oval radio/heater controls,
etc.  (The ~new~ ugly ones, not the ~old~ ugly ones!:)

Trust me, I'll be seeking hard confirmation of it's true existance...

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 00:21:32 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: SHOly Crap!!!  (Non Olds)

Even if Charley was talking about the older ones (pre-93), they were ALL
front wheel drive and NONE of them had V8's in them.  Not from the factory,
anyway.  Imagine the overhead costs to produce a few RWD V8 Taurus's!  My
friend has had a few SHO's and he's pretty big into SHO trivia.  Not one of
them (production models, now) had V8's available.  Many folks think so, but
it's just not true.  3.0L DOHC V6 for the manual version, 3.2L V6 for the
automatic versions.

Now, of course, this is for the pre-aero models (what, '95 and earlier?).
Now, they only come with automatic transmissions!  :-(  How sad...

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, August 30, 1998 11:53 PM
Subject: Re: SHOly Crap!!! (Non Olds)

>are you talking about the old ones?  bout '93 or so?  if so, i had one of
>these hang with me on the interstate one night.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 00:21:01 EDT
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Red vs. Blue hi-beam indicator

The color of the high-beam indicator is regulated by Federal law. At one time
it was red, but then the law mandated that it be blue. I want to say that '70
was the year in which it changed, but I could be mistaken. My '69 H/O is red.

Jon

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 21:18:24 -0700
From: "John Young" <realtorjohn@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: MAYBE W-32?

- ----------
> From: WMACHINES@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: MAYBE W-32?
> Date: Sunday, August 30, 1998 8:11 PM
>
> In a message dated 98-08-28 18:24:18 EDT, you write:
>
>
>  Mike Rothe >>
> W-32 was the option code for the 1970 and 1971 SX built on the Cutlass
Supreme
> body. It came standard with a 455 two or option 4 barrel carb, FE3
suspension
> and cutout rear bumpers with SX tags on the fenders.
>
> W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
Or the 297 Automatic OAI with Power brakes in 69???

realtorjohn@sprynet.com
69 W-32

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 00:52:44 EDT
From: Socalolds@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hood Springs

The repo hood springs Year One sells for 68-72 A-bodies are junk. They do not
look anything like the originals. Bought a pair and sent them back.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Aug 1998 22:47:59 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Hood Springs

At 12:52 AM 8/31/98 -0400, you wrote:
>The repo hood springs Year One sells for 68-72 A-bodies are junk. They do not
>look anything like the originals. Bought a pair and sent them back.
>
Do they work right?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 02:40:11 -0400
From: Kyle Roe <karoe@us.ibm.com>
Subject: [none]

unsubscribe oldsmobile karoe@us.ibm.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 14:42:00 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: TH-400 with overdrive?

I heard that there is a company that sells an overdrive gearbox assembly
that will bolt on BEHIND a TH-400 or TH-350. The unit will alow you to
retain the TH-400 while giving you an overdrive gear for the highway. THe
overdrive gear is activated by a lever. The overdrive gear will also be
able to handle all the torque of an Olds. THere is no electrical or other
hookups needed.

If so did anyone ever hear of this and have it on there car? What does it
go for?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 04:30:36 EDT
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: W-31 authenticity check

bill, the w-31 had manuel disc. brakes on it ,so those on your car would be
correct ,  also that intake is the real deal.  your car sounds like a real
w-31, i hope you find some paper work on it.  the carb.# sounds a bit off
though,  (7043250)  4th digit is the year.   as for the woodgrain and chrome
edging that really has no bearing,  mine is a 70 w-31 based on the cutlass-s
not the f-85, and it doesnt have them.  over the years i`ve noticed quite a
few of these cars without them.   steven, w30442cs@aol.com
ps. did you check out jim mckeages w-31?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 06:15:10 -0500
From: "James Moore" <panman638@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: option production number

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Is there a way to find the production numbers with the options that are =
on the car.I know how many 1972  4-4-2's were built with automatics, and =
with 350's or 455's. I am looking for the air-conditioning, power seat, =
cruise control, tilt wheel power windows, etc. I know there must be a =
way. I would hate to alter a car that would could be rare. I do not know =
if it is but I do not want to chance it. Thanks.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BDD4A6.B52C9760
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Is there a way to find the =
production numbers=20
with the options that are on the car.I know how many 1972&nbsp; 4-4-2's =
were=20
built with automatics, and with 350's or 455's. I am looking for the=20
air-conditioning, power seat, cruise control, tilt wheel power windows, =
etc. I=20
know there must be a way. I would hate to alter a car that would could =
be rare.=20
I do not know if it is but I do not want to chance it.=20
Thanks.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BDD4A6.B52C9760--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 04:34:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: OLDS related...sort of

Everyone,
     Sorry for the wasted space here gang.Yesterday I posted an answer
her to a Q about 69/69 fender interchange...My INTENTION was to
provide a possible solution to the problem,with a little humor to
boot.Even though several :) were included,this was not taken well by
one of the list members involved.I read my posts and find alot of us
do this...I personally enjoy the lightheartedness of this,some
obviously don't.I appologize to anybody else that was offended by
it.This list is supposed to be here to help each other...that WAS my
intention.As I explained in private to the other party,my MAIN
intention was to help here.We all have areas that we are good at.MINE
is not engines,but have gotten alot of help from you guys,And I hope I
have at one time or another been able to help some of you out.
             Sorry for the waste of bandwidth,
                     John
<snipped>
> Yeah Ive learned how to use a d**n drill  and a welder.    obviously
dont know how to get
> your idea across with-out being a jerk in the process. Your mother
ever tell
> you if you dont have anything nice to say then dont say anything
atall.?
==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 04:32:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: OLDS related...sort of

Everyone,
     Sorry for the wasted space here gang.Yesterday I posted an answer
her to a Q about 69/69 fender interchange...My INTENTION was to
provide a possible solution to the problem,with a little humor to
boot.Even though several :) were included,this was not taken well by
one of the list members involved.I read my posts and find alot of us
do this...I personally enjoy the lightheartedness of this,some
obviously don't.I appologize to anybody else that was offended by
it.This list is supposed to be here to help each other...that WAS my
intention.As I explained in private to the other party,my MAIN
intention was to help here.We all have areas that we are good at.MINE
is not engines,but have gotten alot of help from you guys,And I hope I
have at one time or another been able to help some of you out.
             Sorry for the waste of bandwidth,
                     John
<snipped>
> Yeah Ive learned how to use a d**n drill  and a welder.    obviously
dont know how to get
> your idea across with-out being a jerk in the process. Your mother
ever tell
> you if you dont have anything nice to say then dont say anything
atall.?


==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 04:36:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: OLDS related...sort of

Everyone,
     Sorry for the wasted space here gang.Yesterday I posted an answer
her to a Q about 69/69 fender interchange...My INTENTION was to
provide a possible solution to the problem,with a little humor to
boot.Even though several :) were included,this was not taken well by
one of the list members involved.I read my posts and find alot of us
do this...I personally enjoy the lightheartedness of this,some
obviously don't.I appologize to anybody else that was offended by
it.This list is supposed to be here to help each other...that WAS my
intention.As I explained in private to the other party,my MAIN
intention was to help here.We all have areas that we are good at.MINE
is not engines,but have gotten alot of help from you guys,And I hope I
have at one time or another been able to help some of you out.
             Sorry for the waste of bandwidth,
                     John
<snipped>
> Yeah Ive learned how to use a d**n drill  and a welder.    obviously
dont know how to get
> your idea across with-out being a jerk in the process. Your mother
ever tell
> you if you dont have anything nice to say then dont say anything
atall.?
==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 07:09:29 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: TH-400 with overdrive?

I have a friend who put one on his transmission. He has a big block ch@vy
<mailto:ch@vy>  with about 600 horse and the overdrive trains hold up pretty
good too. He paid about $1500 for it though. I will try to find out more
about it later today OK.

======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
17 Wins 11 Losses
======================


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Peter Landowski [SMTP:PETTRIX@prodigy.net]
	Sent:	Monday, August 31, 1998 2:42 PM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	TH-400 with overdrive?

	I heard that there is a company that sells an overdrive gearbox
assembly
	that will bolt on BEHIND a TH-400 or TH-350. The unit will alow you
to
	retain the TH-400 while giving you an overdrive gear for the
highway. THe
	overdrive gear is activated by a lever. The overdrive gear will also
be
	able to handle all the torque of an Olds. THere is no electrical or
other
	hookups needed.

	If so did anyone ever hear of this and have it on there car? What
does it
	go for?
	Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 08:05:44 -0400
From: Dan Jones <dclover@epix.net>
Subject: Re: Paint Code

I'm probably very late  with this comment, but I recently took apart the
rear seat in my 70 Cutlass conv to work on the window cranks.  I found
two full size build sheets, one attached to the seat and one attached to
the seat back.    Also, someone suggested some time ago that the sheet
might be under the carpeting, either driver or passenger side.   I
haven't looked there yet.

Happy hunting!
Dan

> --------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 22:56:56 -0400
> From: Bill & Beth <dickinson@skow.net>
> Subject: Paint code
>
> I am wondering what the - - means on the paint code on my 70 W-31.
> Does this mean that it was a special order color?
> Where might I find the build sheet in this car?
> Thanks for the help
>
> Bill Dickinson
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 07:19:27 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: To the makers of this list

To the makers of this list, I want to commend you on a great list. Without
this list I would not know what I know about the history of Oldsmobile. Also
the information that I have gotten from the many friends on the list has
helped me to build my big block Olds too. I don't know the right word to say
to give you thanks but THANK YOU FOR ALL OF YOUR HARD WORK.

What is the history behind the idea of the list and the 442.com web-site
anyway.  I but It's makes for a  great story huh.
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
17 Wins 11 Losses
======================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 07:30:44 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: Dualjet Carb.

Since that is what I have on my sacrificial ch*vy work/bracket race/parts
hauler m*libu wagon, I would happily accept any  that nobody wants.
Just box them up and send me your unwanted non-computer Dual-jets.  I
can't/won't pay for any, but will take them off your hands.  If you have one
and would like to send it this way, e-mail me privately and we will work
something out.


Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 08:55:19 -0500
From: "TOM HAIRE" <rcd@infinet.com>
Subject: headers for my 68 442

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDD4BD.155D85C0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Whats the best choice of headers for my 68 442 with the original 400ci =
engine. I would like to have a pair that fits right=20
and doesn't require mods.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDD4BD.155D85C0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Whats the best choice of headers for =
my 68 442=20
with the original 400ci engine. I would like to have a pair that fits =
right=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>and doesn't require=20
mods.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDD4BD.155D85C0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 08:19:12 -0500
From: "David Popadic" <davepop@execpc.com>
Subject: Looking to buy!

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01BDD4B8.08FE5AC0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Looking to buy a FM Coverter (I think that's what they are called).  You =
plug in the attenna from your car into the back of it and then plug the =
other end into your am radio.

Olds content : IT'S GOING INTO MY OLDS!

Thanks,

Dave
67 Cutlass Convert.


- ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01BDD4B8.08FE5AC0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Looking to buy a FM Coverter (I =
think that's=20
what they are called).&nbsp; You plug in the attenna from your car into =
the back=20
of it and then plug the other end into your am radio.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Olds content : IT'S GOING INTO MY=20
OLDS!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Dave</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>67 Cutlass Convert.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01BDD4B8.08FE5AC0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 06:23:41 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Composite? headlights

> I'm experiencing fogging on lens, no noticeable holes, chips
> or the like. Any ideas on how to remedy this problem?

Sometimes the seal between lens and reflector is less than perfect,
or the gasket around the bulb is a little loose. I've heard you can
try drilling a _small_ hole in the bottom of the assembly as a
drainage and air vent if all else fails.

> If I have to replace the whole assembly, I'm thinking about
> looking for European assemblies. I understand they have better
> light distribution.

Assuming these are aerodynamic headlamps that are styled into the
nose of the car, such as on the last year of RWD Cutlasses and
any year of the newer FWD models, I don't know where you're going
to find an aftermarket model that will fit. I think Hella, Cibie'
and Marchal (sp?) might make aftermarket units for European cars,
but I dunno about Olds...

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 08:30:01 -0500
From: "Kijowski, Stan" <SKIJOWSKI@midland.com>
Subject: repro hoods

hi all,
has anyone had any experience with aftermarket/reproduction oai hoods. i
would like to find an oai hood to put on my 72  convertible.   i prefer to
have a heavyweight bolt on hood that i could use stock hinges. anyone heard
of a company called APS&C (or something like that?)
you can reply to me directly at      skijowski@midland.com
or call me  816-801-2300

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 06:32:07 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Red vs. Blue hi-beam indicator

Much as I hate to keep bringing Pontiacs in as reference points,
our '69 had a red indicator; our '72 had a blue one. Both original,
no question of a gauge swap, etc.

- -- Andy

P.S. I have a 1950 unit as a bookshelf decoration (back when they
really knew how to style pot-metal :-) which also has a red lens.
It's about the only piece of plastic in the whole thing, in fact.

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 08:33:12 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: TH-400 with overdrive?

Here is the information about the TH-400 overdrive  transmission.

Regarding the overdrive unit, I believe the unit being referred to is the
Gear Vendors unit (800-999-9555).  This unit is a overdrive/gear splitter
unit with a 0.78:1 overdrive.  So this will take your 4.10:1 and turn it
into a 3.20:1.  The reason the overdrive is not steeper is because it is
designed to also be a gear splitter, so you can go between gears (1rst -
1rst overdrive, 2nd - 2nd overdrive) for applications such as towing or
racing.  For racing however, you would need a  special computer control to
take into account the approx. 1 second it takes to engage the overdrive.
This unit is extremely well designed and constructed and comes complete with
everything you need.  The unit is operated by a two wire electrical
connection, also a control box and an in line speedometer connection is
included.  The reason for the electronics is to prevent the unit from being
engaged below 20 MPH, and to shut it off at approx. the same speed.
Additionally, to provide for the automatic mode which automatically engages
the unit at approx. 48 MPH.
This unit is rated at 2000 Horsepower (probably higher, but that's the
highest they could test the unit).  This unit is also expensive, it goes for
somewhere around $2400.  I got mine for around $2000 because they gave me a
discount because I work part time at an Auto Parts Store, and had it shipped
there.
I only had two problems with the installation:
1.	The overdrive adapter would not clear the crossmember.  I had the
tubular type crossmember (typical on Chevy's) which did not allow the
overdrive adapter to clear.  I remedied this by obtaining a stamped type
crossmember from a Pontiac Lemans (this style is typical on Olds Cutlass,
Pontiac Lemans and Buick Skylarks).
2.	There was insufficient floor clearance for the overdrive unit.  If
you pull the carpeting up on any 68-72 Chevelle, Skylark, Cutlass or Lemans,
you will note that the transmission tunnel gradually necks down but then
gets to a point where it quickly necks down further until you get to the
front of the front seat sub-frame, where it gets larger again.  This point
where the tunnel is at its narrowest point (which is approx. 10-12"
lengthwise in the car) is where you'll have clearance problems.  I tried to
remedy this by using an air impact and a wide head hammering/shaping tool to
enlarge to tunnel from under the car.  At first, massaging the tunnel with
this tool went smoothly, but right when I got to the point of having
sufficient clearance, I poked through the floor.  So, I ended up cutting
this section of the floor away (approx. 12" by 12") and I shaped sheet metal
to replace this piece.  So now the tunnel on my car has a gradual neck down
all the way to the front seat sub-frame.

But now I can take my car with its 4.10:1 rear end and cruise down the
highway at a more reasonable RPM level.

Jimbo

======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
17 Wins 11 Losses
======================


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Peter Landowski [SMTP:PETTRIX@prodigy.net]
	Sent:	Monday, August 31, 1998 2:42 PM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	TH-400 with overdrive?

	I heard that there is a company that sells an overdrive gearbox
assembly
	that will bolt on BEHIND a TH-400 or TH-350. The unit will alow you
to
	retain the TH-400 while giving you an overdrive gear for the
highway. THe
	overdrive gear is activated by a lever. The overdrive gear will also
be
	able to handle all the torque of an Olds. THere is no electrical or
other
	hookups needed.

	If so did anyone ever hear of this and have it on there car? What
does it
	go for?
	Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 06:32:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Looking to buy!

I used to have an FM converter in my 1970 Cutlass.  I think I still
have it in my garage somewhere.
It worked well, but I replaced it with a nice Alpine tape deck
(mounted under the dash).  If you want the FM converter I could dig it
up.  The only problem is that it doesn't have the mounting bracket.  I
made one out of hand bent sheet metal(looked like hell but did the
job) that you can have if you want.  If you are interested in this
converter hit me back at sgadecki@yahoo.com
last I remember it was in good shape, and you can have it for really
cheap. It's approx. 1" tall by 4" wide by 4" deep if I remember
correctly.

Stefan
sgadecki@yahoo.com
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe (currently at the body shop)
1978 Subaru GF (piece of garbage that I have to drive untill my olds
is fixed)






_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 09:46:55 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: 69 cutlass for sale-follow up

saw the car over the weekend. It's red with white interior, 350, TH350.

HAS: bench seats
         113,000 miles
         rallaye wheels
         new rear bumper
         crank windows
         new top, tires, shocks
NEEDS
          decent paint but bubbling on rear quarters
          new seat covers
          water pump
ASKING: $8,000. but says he would be open to offers
Question. What should I pay?
TIA
Bruce


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 09:46:10 -0400
From: RAY.COSTANZO@firstunion.com
Subject: Oldsmobile Books?

TO: Softswitch.OAS
CC:
FROM: RAY.COSTANZO@TAOFUN1
SUBJECT:  Oldsmobile Books?

   Does anyone know of any books that are striclty about Oldsmobile, w
   hether it be technical, historical, etc.?
   I mean, if there's an International Scout II book, you think there'
   d be at least one Olds book.

   Ray Costanzo
   87 49 Cutlass
   ray.costanzo@firstunion.com












































------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 07:11:45 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: 69 cutlass for sale-follow up

Bruce,

> saw the car over the weekend. It's red with white interior, 350, TH350.
>
> NEEDS
>           decent paint but bubbling on rear quarters
>           new seat covers
>           water pumpASKING: $8,000. but says he would be open to offers

For $8K you would think it wouldn't need hardly anthing substantial.
Youcould deduct for the work it needs.

Item 1)   At least a couple hundred on each side to fix the rust and
repaint
Item 2)   Seat covers (if all around) can set you back around $400
Item 3)   A water pump, I'm guessing, should be no more than a $100

Almost a $1000 there.  $8K is too much for a 69 Cutlass in this condition.

Heck my 68 442 is probably worth $8K.

Good luck.


- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 10:29:00 EDT
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: electrical problem need help!

i was driving my car yesterday its an 85 cutlass supreme v-6 3.8 and the oil
light came on checked the oil it was fine didnt think anything of until it got
dark out and when i started it up this time the oil light came on again but no
other lights light the seatbelt light and a couple others that just flash up
quick and then go off but anyway when i turned on my lights that little buzzer
that goes off when you lights are on and the car off would not go off and the
dash lights seem a little dimmer than they usually are my guess is a short
somewhere but dont know where yet does any on have any ideas oh BTW all fuses
are new, batterry is new, and the alternator is one year oldany help would be
appreciated   TIA			RICH
81 82 85 cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 10:32:23 -0400
From: "Gary J Couse" <gjcouse@mhonline.net>
Subject: List Notification

List Notification:

Hello all;

Couse Custom Cutlass here.

I will attend the Charlotte Meet with "Quincy". The prototype next
generation G-Body. At this point the styling will be 95% complete. A stock
drive line of 307 essence will be the fact. Nor will the interior be
converted. However the shell will be 95% complete. IROC in stature, I will
debut the product.

My intent: To create a new vehicle refurbished from abundant G-Body Cutlass
cars. The assembly/body/mechanics plant is intact. The IROC G-Body will be a
reality. "Quincy" will debut at the Charlotte swap meet. I need a little
help here. Does the meet run into night? I would prefer to display the debut
to invited magazines, (Hot Rod, Hot Rodding, Rod + Custom...) and unveil at
dusk. Quincy is equipped with Neon and a night visual/photo shoot is
optimal/awesome... Granted, some may object to a new American modified
existing G-Body, but I assure all that never an H/O or 442 will go through
the plant. Only stock G-Bodies that would be lost to time will be given a
new life. I'm even setup to correct frame rot... Though this adds extra
time, I can handle it.

100's of thousands of Cutlasses are about to die due to time/rot. I want to
save them. Granted, I'm changing them. But saving them as well. Creating a
new H/O, 442, and now the IROC Custom. I believe I can produce apx. 80 cars
a year at current status. We're talking rare units here. All units will be
placard as a "Couse Custom" and numbered.

So, I need the lists help. Talk to me. Tell me your thoughts. Quincy is
still in the build body line so I don't have pica's yet. The web site may
launch, (including pic's) concurrent to the meet. Prices, well that remains
open depending on the interior/drive line Options.


Engine Options:
307 Olds Stock to wild
455 Olds Stock to wild
500 Cadillac Stock to wild

Naturally aspirated
Turbo
Turbod with NO2

Were talking 1,000+ HP on the top end with NO2.

Superchargers will not be included as that interrupts the hood line. (Though
a Custom Couse Custom SC isn't out of the question on a singular
installation).

To the list:

I'm geared'up for this venture. "Quincy" (the prototype name) will be
visible at the Charlotte meet. I will create a line of IROC Custom Cutlass
units and will be taking Orders for same. Does anyone have the meet's
promoter contact info? I have secured physical access passes but need
interior display access passes. Help Please?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 10:48:03 -0400
From: "Johnny Gage" <bladernr@roava.net>
Subject: Re: 69 cutlass for sale-follow up

Hmm....  tell him that I may be willing to trade a 67 Toronado, and a 92
Saturn for it???  hehehehe

Just kidding.  Heck, Go for it!!
><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> 67 Toronado  ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><>

Jeffrey Lane, EMT-ST ICQ#12362327 http://www.roava.net/~bladernr
  bladernr@roava.net  EMTBoy9@aol.com


Sr. Sergeant, Equipment Officer  | EMT-ST/Driver
Fort Lewis Rescue Squad, Inc.  | United Ambulance Service
Salem, Virginia    | Roanoke, Virginia

"Knowledge is power.  But power corrupts, and corruption is a sin, so if
you seek knowledge, you will burn in hell. . ."

- -----------------------------Carpe Noctum------------------------------
- -----Original Message-----
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 31, 1998 9:00 AM
Subject: 69 cutlass for sale-follow up


>saw the car over the weekend. It's red with white interior, 350, TH350.
>
>HAS: bench seats
>         113,000 miles
>         rallaye wheels
>         new rear bumper
>         crank windows
>         new top, tires, shocks
>NEEDS
>          decent paint but bubbling on rear quarters
>          new seat covers
>          water pump
>ASKING: $8,000. but says he would be open to offers
>Question. What should I pay?
>TIA
>Bruce
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 09:37:35 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: 69 cutlass for sale-follow up

Bruce,

please give us some more info:

>          113,000 miles
original miles?
How does engine compartment look like?
Original air filter and valve covers?
2bbl or 4bbl carb?
Does everything look original or is it aftermarket-dressed-up?

>          rallaye wheels
original olds wheels?

- -Did you check the vi number?
- -Does it have the original block?
- -Is the paint and interior original colors?
- -Did you open/close the top (hydraulics work?)
- -Does top have glass or plastic window?
- -Did you drive it???

The questions regarding originality may not be of any interest to you but
if you ever plan to sell the car yourself again, it is. As far as you
describe the car I would never pay 8.000 for it! It has way too many miles
and needs too much work (especially paint is getting expensive) for that
kind of price. Have you checked on a classics price guide yet? I could do
this for you on lunchbreak if you wish.

Regards, George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 07:41:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: OLDS related..bandwidth apology

- ---S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> Everyone,
>      Sorry for the wasted space here gang.

This message went through 3 times, I am sorry, my ISP is screwing up
and sent in triplicate. Not intentional on my part.
Thanks
John
==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 11:10:58 -0400
From: John Burris <jburris1@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: SHOly Crap!!!  (Non Olds)

96+ SHOs come with FWD modular V-8s (another stupid Found On Road Dead idea)

Jason Adcock wrote:

> Even if Charley was talking about the older ones (pre-93), they were ALL
> front wheel drive and NONE of them had V8's in them.  Not from the factory,
> anyway.  Imagine the overhead costs to produce a few RWD V8 Taurus's!  My
> friend has had a few SHO's and he's pretty big into SHO trivia.  Not one of
> them (production models, now) had V8's available.  Many folks think so, but
> it's just not true.  3.0L DOHC V6 for the manual version, 3.2L V6 for the
> automatic versions.
>
> Now, of course, this is for the pre-aero models (what, '95 and earlier?).
> Now, they only come with automatic transmissions!  :-(  How sad...
>
> Jason Adcock
> mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
> http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BIGJERMES@aol.com <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Sunday, August 30, 1998 11:53 PM
> Subject: Re: SHOly Crap!!! (Non Olds)
>
> >are you talking about the old ones?  bout '93 or so?  if so, i had one of
> >these hang with me on the interstate one night.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 11:08:20 -0400
From: "Shokouhi, Mike" <ShokouhM@nasd.com>
Subject: fan clutch working?

Hi all,

I know a lot of "running hot" chatter went on a month ago, (I have it
saved) however, I would like to check to see if my clutch is working?
I've finally finished my '69 H/O, and it gets VERY hot - VERY quick when
I'm trying to tune her.  All the flaps and dam are on, a 180 thermo
(changed from 195), and a 4 core.  I suspect the clutch, but wanted to
see if there was a "hard and fast" way of checking.

Thanks for any and all help!

Mike Shokouhi
I may lurk a lot, but I love you guys!
(not alcohol induced)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 11:35:21 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: fan clutch working?

Shokouhi, Mike wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I know a lot of "running hot" chatter went on a month ago, (I have it
> saved) however, I would like to check to see if my clutch is working?
> I've finally finished my '69 H/O, and it gets VERY hot - VERY quick when
> I'm trying to tune her.  All the flaps and dam are on, a 180 thermo
> (changed from 195), and a 4 core.  I suspect the clutch, but wanted to
> see if there was a "hard and fast" way of checking.

From my experience, if you start it up and let it idle, watch the fan.
If it seems a little sluggish, like it's not spinning the same speed as
the water pump, carefully try to stop it by grabbing the clutch unit
with your hand, again CAREFULLY. I wouldn't want you to loose or break
fingers. If you can hold it still while the engine's still running and
no belts squeal, then the clutch is bad.

This may not be a sure-fire way, more experienced list members will
correct me if I'm wrong, but in the past, this is what I've had happen.

Good luck....
- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl)
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl)
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl)
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl)
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 11:43:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Re: Aluminum heads <Gainesville>

On Sun, 30 Aug 1998 WMACHINES@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 98-08-30 09:25:50 EDT, you write:
>
> << Well here it is , Temp 99 humidity 95%  1st run 12.192, 2nd 11.961, 3rd
>  11.902,
>  4th 11.880. no 5th run track shut me down till proper safty equipment.
>  60ft went to hell,
>  I know it has a lot more.  it was worth the time,  the aggravation, {
>  the money?} well at least I think so. { the wife dont}    Butch 68 442
>  post>>
>
> Run IHRA.  There class goes 11.49 before cage since NHRA is 11.99.  So find a
> IHRA and let it rip
>
> W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
> 72 442 W-30
> 12.14@110 with Ga heads
>
Impressive numbers.  What launch and shift points do you recommend?  Was
this on street tires or drag radials or slicks?


Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 11:00:46 -0500
From: Paul Brillhart <u17058@uic.edu>
Subject: '66 Toro whole or for parts

Well, it's whole less the engine.  That's mine.  Good Turbo 400,
wheels w/spare(no center caps), PS setup, Pbrakes(drum..rem it's a '66),
good hood w/minor surface rust from sitting in the sun, good pass. side
door, good head lights, front sheetmetal, grille is bent, trunk and
quarters are dented up, interior had good parts, but not the seats, they
need to be redone.  No A/C. Driver's door and fender has been creased.
Don't rem the pass. fender, I'll look again if anyone's interested.  If
there are any parts you need or you're interested in the rolling chasis
w/turbo 400, e-mail me off the list.  I need it gone the Saturday
afternoon of Labor Day weekend as that's when I'm pulling the motor.
Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 08:05:57 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure / Oil Cooler

It has been normal in the Old's I've owned to drop about 5 lbs on
extended freeway drives.  I say *has* because I've found a solution,
synthetic oil.  My theory is that the oil is getting hot and the
viscocity is breaking down, and synthetic oil doesn't do that.

Now, the big question is was that 5 psi drop really hurting anything?
Probably not.

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 12:17:04 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: SHOly Crap!!!  (Non Olds)

Right.  And only with automatic transmissions.  It takes a company like Ford
to pull something like that...  :-)

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: John Burris <jburris1@bellsouth.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 31, 1998 11:08 AM
Subject: Re: SHOly Crap!!! (Non Olds)


>96+ SHOs come with FWD modular V-8s (another stupid Found On Road Dead
idea)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 12:36:01 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure / Oil Cooler

I don't think it hurts anything.  I've run for hours at 3000RPM and 35 lbs
pressure, all day long....this is significantly lower than the 40 or so around
town I get..

Todd Morris
71 442

>It has been normal in the Old's I've owned to drop about 5 lbs on
>extended freeway drives.  I say *has* because I've found a solution,
>synthetic oil.  My theory is that the oil is getting hot and the
>viscocity is breaking down, and synthetic oil doesn't do that.

>Now, the big question is was that 5 psi drop really hurting anything?
>Probably not.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 09:47:52 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Going off list for the day

This place is going to shut down some of the systems which may effect e-mail.
Just to be sure I don't mess up everybody else and the major I will uns*b for
a while.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 12:57:06 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: What is the ideal Q-jet>

In a message dated 98-08-30 17:04:14 EDT, you write:

<<[[what's the best Qjet?]]>>

<< Also what Q-jet part #'s have a place to attach a TH350 cable to them? >>

Karl has been musing this too.

Karl has a thought.
Mebbe two.

For Karl's porposes, the best Qjet should be Pre-EGR to avoid complications.

That eliminates.. what, 1971 and on?

Also, best to pick a year when Rochester worked out bugs in previous model
year.
For example; it seems that the 1976 Qjet is superior the the anemic 1975
model.

So Karl would tend to shy away from the 1966 Qjet (first year on Olds).
That leaves for me 1967-70.

Now, in 1970, Olds did some nifty stuff performance-wise.
Ralley 350, RamRod 350 (right?), and "H" heads became available in 1971, so
they had to be in advanced planning stages in 1970.
Of course, this is not truly a reflection on what Roch. Prod. Div. is doing,
but with the tri-taper appearing in 1969 or so, this has to be approx. the
right era.

What I will actually do is look for a 7029XXX or 7040XXX carb core and build
it up myself. Hell, I just pulled an old cruddy 2GV carb outta a month-long
carb cleaner bath and it looks new! (I just gotta figure out how to get the
right jets...)

For the smoggers perhaps the reverse is true?
Best Qjet could be one from the very early EGR cars?
Mayhaps 1972 or 1973?

Karl dont rightly know.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 12:57:13 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: heads   1/8 mile (primaries & torque curve)

Re garding primary diameters;

<< They are 1 7/8 ,  do you know something thet I should? >>

I was noticing that your 1/8 time gains semmed better than your 1/4 gains.
So I wondered where your torque peak was.

My understanding is that the key is airflow, which is determined by the
smallest restriction.

I have a calculation around here somewhere which gives the torque peak in RPM
based on header primaries.

Karl not got time now.

For more info (and calcs) see www.racermall.com and visit the Performance
Professor.
The lecture in question is the June installment on headers.

Good reading!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 12:57:11 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: will it work?

In a message dated 98-08-30 19:05:13 EDT, you write:

<<   You better believe they are not put on cars and called balancers for
nothing. >>
(Thanks GChris, good stuff, not to make light of you but; )

OK.

Survey says:

Use the CORRECT balancer for stock apps.

Also consider rebalancing when modifying the reciprocal goodies.
(Crank, rods, piston, flywheel)

Next thread.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 12:57:05 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Peter Bausch (sp?) was Re: will it work?

In a message dated 98-08-30 18:15:35 EDT, you write:

<< >> I believe what is needed is willa 307 vib.dmpr worlk on 403.
 >>
 >> Karl thinks not.
 >
 > Say whut?

 [.......saving you the rereading of a hilarious Green-ism.....]

 That's what Karl is saying. Highly abbreviated, of course...
  >>

Andy is right that my missive was in error. The original posting was
concerning a 307 v.d. on a 455, not a 403.

(hope he's got lotsa spare rods!)

Peter: Sorry about that, my right hand wanted a beer.

Karl

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 12:57:09 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Engine ID

In a message dated 98-08-30 13:20:49 EDT, you write:

<< Hi there: >>

Hello!

<< I have a 71 cutlass Supreme conv. that I purchased 2 years ago. This summer
I blew a head gasket (350). When I pulled the heads, I notice the coolant
ports aren't all the same as the ports on the block. (About half of the block
ports exist on the heads) >>

So you have MORE holes on block than in heads.
Did that sound right?

<< Should this be a concern? Do I have the right heads. According to the
Oldsmobile Mail List Server Community, the heads are off a '73 - 350. I can
identify the casting on the block as 395582 but cannot see (no stamp) the
number on the block to tell if its the original block but the block is GOLD in
color (71 - 350 block color).

I CAN see the oil fill stamp and it does NOT match but I know the oil fill is
not always accurate. So finally I come to the question. Do I get heads for a
71 - 350? OR... Do I get these heads machined? I also read the casting on the
intake and it reads 411990 but has OLDSMOBILE raised letters. Is this the
correct manifold? Please help!  >>

I do not know about the oil fill stamp.

First of all.
There are two kinds of intakes for this era. Big Block and Small Block. ALL
small block intakes interchange. In fact I think it is even possible to bolt
the A4 intake from an early 80's 307 up to your 350.
Short version. Intake is a non issue, if it fits, it is fine.

Cylinder heads.
You had the heads off, saw some holes did not match and got excited.
All BB heads interchange, (though some slight mods may be necessary for A
heads)
All SB heads interchange (similar might be true for #1 heads)

Was there a problem with the vehicle before you blew the head gasket?

If not, forget it! New gasket, bolt heads on, and go!
Gaskets do go once in a while (esp if compression is high).

If there WAS a serious problem with coolant ports or some such not lining up,
your motor would probably have self-destructed LONG ago!

As for milling your heads....why?

Yes, you will gain some compression ... slightly.
About the same amount as you would get from an overbore.
(Yes, I have seen the math - over-boring leads to higher compression)

In short, be calm.
Your olds is not sick.
With a cautious owner like yourself, most troublesome situations wil be
eliminated before they occur.

Read the FAQ at www.442.com and enjoy your Oldsmobile!

Karl

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1458
*********************************
