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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1403


oldsmobile-digest       Monday, August 3 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1403



Olds F/S In NE Ohio Area
Re: Web Links & Pics
Re: 403 olds questions
Re: Dbl humped-trans. crossmember
Re: Pontiac Talk
78-88 Cutlass ground effects / free Motortrend....
Re: Dbl humped-trans. crossmember
Re: Loose Torque Converter Bolts
RE: GemCity/Performance Chapter Show
Re: Loose Torque Converter Bolts
Re: Loose Torque Converter Bolts
Re: List Symbol URL
Re: Bad luck
Re: Bad luck
Re: Garage Stuff
Re: Loose Torque Converter Bolts
Cool Can
Re: Oldsmobile History Center
O.A.I. Filter Trivia
Window glass date codes
Re: Cool Can
RE: Cool Can
AR Torq-Thrust "D" Rims
pic of the Torq-Thrust "D" Rims
Re:Sunday's Union, IL Get-together (non-olds, delete now!)
Re: Cool Can  (also non-Olds. delete now)
Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!
Re: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!
Re: bugs in the HEI?????
FS: 1972 Cutlass
Re: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!
Re: Cool Can
Re: Dbl humped-trans. crossmember
Re: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!
Re: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!
Re: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!
Re: Garage Stuffdave
RE: Garage Stuffdave
Re: Cool Can
Re: Bad luck
Yet More Rust
Re: Re:Sunday's Union, IL Get-together (non-olds, delete now!)
Re: Union, IL: Good Time Had by All
Re: UNBOUNCE: '83-'88 Ram Air Hood
re: 6 banger Firebird
FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 11:33:02 -0400
From: "Paul L. Fikaris" <fikaris@en.com>
Subject: Olds F/S In NE Ohio Area

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

53 Super 88 2 dr. mild custom, std. shift, new interior $4500 =
330-667-2563

65 F-85 excellent cond., 44K all orig., one owner, trophy winner $3800 =
330-928-4606

67 442 Calif car, 80 restored, $4500 invested Must sell, BO or trade =
440-843-7382

72 442 W-30 455 4spd., 342 posi Raly Pack, Ramair $8300 216-591-0284

76 Cutlass 455/400 auto, posi, rebuilt, A-1 $5500 or offer 440-257-7984

As always, I am Sgt. Schultz: I know nothink, I see nothink, I hear =
nothink, I just read them out of the paper.

Paul L. Fikaris
fikaris@en.com
69 Delta 88 Conv 455

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BDBED2.794DE6C0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>53 Super 88 2 dr. mild custom, std. =
shift, new=20
interior $4500 330-667-2563</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>65 F-85 excellent cond., 44K all orig., one owner, =
trophy=20
winner $3800 330-928-4606</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>67 442 Calif car, 80 restored, $4500 invested Must =
sell, BO or=20
trade 440-843-7382</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>72 442 W-30 455 4spd., 342 posi Raly Pack, Ramair =
$8300=20
216-591-0284</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>76 Cutlass 455/400 auto, posi, rebuilt, A-1 $5500 or =
offer=20
440-257-7984</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>As always, I am Sgt. Schultz: I know nothink, I see =
nothink, I=20
hear nothink, I just read them out of the paper.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Paul L. Fikaris<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:fikaris@en.com">fikaris@en.com</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>69 Delta 88 Conv =
455</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BDBED2.794DE6C0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 11:35:09 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Web Links & Pics

...http://www.musclecars.net/

which has all sorts of musclecar pictures including:

http://www.musclecars.net/Archive/Cars/GMC/Oldsmobile/442/71/uncut/0001.jpg
_________

Cool web site, but unfortunately their "71" 442 is really a 72 - or else it
has the wrong grilles.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 11:44:19 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 403 olds questions

>Does anyone know of any web sites dedicated to the 403. Looking for webs =
>that may contain buildup information. Need info on stock production =

Lots of information at:
http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm

>buildup. This motor will be run in a race car, rules mandate the engine =
>must contain factory stock parts. With the exception of the 500cfm =
>holley two barrel. Please help if you can. Thanks Tim Wurtz

If the engine must be *absolutely* stock, then you're limited by the small
(.400" lift/250' duration) camshaft. OTOH, if you're allowed to use any
FACTORY parts from the same family of engine, then you've got more choices.

>was wondering if someone may know what years of the small block olds =
>contained a steel crank? And were there any that had steel rods in them. =

'64-'67 330 had forged crank, as did all 425's and early 400's up to 1967;
as others noted, though, the flywheel bolt pattern changed, so get the
flywheel/flexplate to match.

All Olds V-8's had forged steel rods with 12-point capscrews (the reason
there are so few aftermarket parts for the Olds is that the factory put
them in! ;)

>Also which small block motor would have a reasonable stout cam.  Thanks =

'68-'70 W-31 used the same .474"/308' cam as the '68 H/O and the automatic
W-30's. Are you limited to small-block cams, though? If the parts must come
from the same "engine family", then that would open up even the hottest
W-30 cams for you, which might be too much duration for your 2-bb, with its
328'.

Also keep this in mind when choosing valves, as the big-block intakes
(2.07") are larger than the 403 intakes (2.00"), and you could use the '72
455 exhaust valves (1.68"). Again, though, that 2-bbl will be the limiting
factor; bigger may not be better in these cases. I can see where you may be
doing a lot of head and cam swapping to get the right combination.

>are the roller lifters and cam out of a small block diesel motor a good =
>candidate for stock racing applications.

No: too heavy, and the block has to be designed to accept them. And the
only decent factory roller cam would be the '86-'87 442 cam, which is much
less stout than the W-31 cams.

>What about diesel heads any =
>good? I have # 7 diesel head. Thanks Tim

No, diesel heads only for diesel engines. The diesel 350 shortblock,
however, is another story; it's the strongest engine Olds ever assmembled,
and it can be converted to gasoline use with the factory 403 heads.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	              MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 11:27:57 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Dbl humped-trans. crossmember

>I will be putting headers on my '78 CS soon, (350 cid, TH350) and I need to
>find a dual-humped trans. crossmember.  Does anyone know of an aftermarket
>source?
>I'd modify an old one, but I don't know how to weld.
>Is anyone parting put a car with a custom crossmember?

Don't the '68-'72 double-hump A-body crossmembers fit? I thought that I'd
heard of people using those, with minimal if any cutting.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	              MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 11:51:07 EDT
From: <ANTIQOLDS@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Pontiac Talk

In a message dated 98-08-03 01:07:49 EDT, you write:

<<
 To All List Members,

         I have to have my peace and say this. ENOUGH of the PONTIAC stuff.
 This is an Olds list. If you want to talk the "P" cars go to their list. I
 don't mind the occasional 403 T/A questions but there has been way too much
 of the BS Firebird crap on this list. I'm sorry if this offends anybody
 taking part in the exchange, but there's a reason this is a Olds list. Now
 that I'm off my soap box. Sorry to all others.
  >>
AMEN

Everett  OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 12:08:01 -0400
From: "Mike Coccagna" <mike.coccagna@envirosense.com>
Subject: 78-88 Cutlass ground effects / free Motortrend....

Hey Oldsmofolks!

I've been lurking for a while, especially since the Quad4 folks have moved
to our own listserv, but ran upon these links that may be of general
interest to the Olds list -

1- 78-87 Cutlass Ground effects -
http://www.erebunicorp.com/ge/oldscut78.htm Hard to tell anything from the
yellow pic, but figured I'd pass it on (they also have wings for $214).
They also have some universal spoilers...

2 -   On the company's homepage, there is a link for a free subscription to
Motor Trend for being a visitor to their web site!

I'm not sure how long the free subscription will last.  Enjoy!

Mike  (returning to the shadows)
'91 W-40+ 442
'93 W-41 SCX
To subscribe to QuadFourm, send an e-mail to Majordomo@gem.lightlink.com
with the words "subscribe quadforum-l" in the body.  To unsubscribe, do the
same, substituting unsubscribe for subscribe...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 12:12:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Re: Dbl humped-trans. crossmember

On Mon, 3 Aug 1998, Robert Barry wrote:

> >I will be putting headers on my '78 CS soon, (350 cid, TH350) and I need to
> >find a dual-humped trans. crossmember.  Does anyone know of an aftermarket
> >source?
> >I'd modify an old one, but I don't know how to weld.
> >Is anyone parting put a car with a custom crossmember?
>
> Don't the '68-'72 double-hump A-body crossmembers fit? I thought that I'd
> heard of people using those, with minimal if any cutting.

There is a source in Chicago but I have heard good and bad about it and
the price is about $150.  A more practical and cheaper solution is to get
a 70-72 double hump cross member.  You will need to cut about inch of
each end and do some work to the lower frame rail on the passenger side..
Other than that 4 new bolt holes and you are in business.. After much
trial and error and sweat  I found a Sawzall or reciprocating saw is best
to do the modifications..

Al Varhus Columbus,
Ohio http://www.infinet.com/~avar http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 12:21:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Re: Loose Torque Converter Bolts

Someone is the not to distant past posted some info on loose torque
converter bolts and the symptoms.. Please e-mail me directly;. I Seem to
have some thunking noise from the general area of the converter but only
at idle and in gear..Thanks

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 12:24:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: RE: GemCity/Performance Chapter Show

What a great day.. About 100 oldsmobiles there and beautiful weather.. A
good time had by all; best of show was a 55 88/98 .. great looking car

BTW, show the mailing list logo at any shows you go to so we can find
each other... Hope I did not miss seeing anyone in Fairborn/Dayton..

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 09:22:34 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Loose Torque Converter Bolts

if the tc bolts are loose you will experience a vibration and a rather noisy
clunking at any speed and in or out of gear, if the bell housing bolts are
loose then you will have a clunk and bump when you place the car in gear and
upon accel and decel...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 03, 1998 9:24 AM
Subject: Re: Loose Torque Converter Bolts


>
>Someone is the not to distant past posted some info on loose torque
>converter bolts and the symptoms.. Please e-mail me directly;. I Seem to
>have some thunking noise from the general area of the converter but only
>at idle and in gear..Thanks
>
>Al Varhus
>Columbus, Ohio
>http://www.infinet.com/~avar
>http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
>Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
>  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
>  Gem City Rockets
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 12:38:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: Edwin R Burger <erb22@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu>
Subject: Re: Loose Torque Converter Bolts

How would you tighten loose torque convt bolts?

Ed

On Mon, 3 Aug 1998, The Viking wrote:

>
> Someone is the not to distant past posted some info on loose torque
> converter bolts and the symptoms.. Please e-mail me directly;. I Seem to
> have some thunking noise from the general area of the converter but only
> at idle and in gear..Thanks
>
> Al Varhus
> Columbus, Ohio
> http://www.infinet.com/~avar
> http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
> Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
>   Mid Ohio Chapter #136
>   Gem City Rockets
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 12:43:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Re: List Symbol URL

http://www.calcon.net/~easton/graphics/at.gif

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 12:54:21 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Bad luck

Mr Ada wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Well if I didn't have bad luck I wouldn't have any.  This weekend a
> neighbor, I am very sure
> it was, vandalized my beloved Frosty.  On my passenger side rear quarter
> panel I found a
> very deep gash.  Enough to bend the metal in a little.  There are also
> some other scratches which I think can be buffed out.  I've got the
> police in on this and hopefully they can do
> something about it.  They didn't believe me a week ago that this guy
> threatened to do damage
> to my personal property.
>
> It sure bummed me since people just can't keep their hands off my car!
> Does anyone know of any deterrent devices that will keep people away?
> I am getting fed up with all this
> repairing I keep doing.

About the only ones I know of are:

1.  Move
2.  Buy the expletive deleted's house
3.  Install a 24 hour camera to record transgressions
4.  .357 Magnum appropriately loaded, placed, aimed and unloaded
5.  Stay up all night watching over your baby with item #4

The above are put forth with tongue in cheek.  I know EXACTLY how you
feel though.  I think the guy that lived next door to me about ten years
ago took a hammer and broke out the windshield in my 72 Hurst because he
didn't like it sitting out in front of my house in it's "rusted and run
down" condition.  Really sure that is what happened but couldn't prove
it.  The guy was an idiot.  Good luck.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 12:58:30 EDT
From: <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Bad luck

In a message dated 98-08-03 09:40:59 EDT, you write:

<<
 yes, A VERY BIG DOG! , let it take a bite outta crime!  just be sure to post
 guard dog sign near it so your covered against law suits.    steven,
 w30442cs@aol.com
  >>

Actually no. You don't want to post a sign nearby.  The thinking goes like
this....

Since you posted a sign saying "Beware of Dog", you knew the dog would bite,
and thus are liable.  I've heard it happening....  Don't be so sure the sign
will help you out of a suit...

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 13:10:23 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Garage Stuff

I confusion seem to be present
I have no complete full sets
I may be able to put together some matching strands
But thats about it
I just have a very large barrel,and everytime a parted a car I through all
the seat belt in it
over the years I have sold many little pieces and I can't perdict whats
left behind
So what exactly are you hoping for?


Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)


- ----------
> From: TomW30@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Garage Stuff
> Date: Monday, August 03, 1998 8:06 AM
>
>   Am interested in a set of those seat belts. Black for my '69 442. You
can e-
> mail me at my own address: Tomw30.
>
>                             Thanks,
>                                 Tom Reardon

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 10:18:42 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Loose Torque Converter Bolts

> How would you tighten loose torque convt bolts?

I think you just drop the inspection cover from the transmission
and use a long box wrench to reach in past the flywheel teeth to
grab the bolt heads... but it's been many years since I had to
mess around with those...

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 12:26:06 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Cool Can

Is their anybody out there who uses the cool can to keep their gas cool?
Does it make a noticeable difference?
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
13 Wins 10 Losses
======================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 13:33:58 EDT
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile History Center

In a message dated 98-08-01 21:14:43 EDT, you write:

<<  From the information that Helen gave, I got the message that
 Oldsmobile
 > pulled the plug on the History center and the Chamber of Commerce  >>

I can't confirm but a guy at GE told me that GM planned to change the name of
Oldsmobile to the Aurora Division by the year 2000. Anybody else hear this?
Bruce
75 Delta 88 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 13:29:30 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: O.A.I. Filter Trivia

Being the proud new owner of a correct O.A.I. air cleaner base, I spend
some time at lunch perusing the AC Delco filter catalog for info.  I've
been using a standard 4bbl air cleaner base and an aftermarket lid under
the O.A.I. adapter on my 70 W-30 up until now.  That cleaner uses the
ubiquitous A212CW filter.  The O.A.I. base uses the A366C filter (sorry for
the typo in my previous post), which is much more difficult to obtain
locally.  The differences are as follows:

          Height         I.D.      O.D.

A212CW    3.04"          11.62"          13.94"
A366C          2.54"          11.62"          13.16"

The smaller OD of the 366 explains the smaller diameter of the cleaner's
top plate (as compared to the aftermarket open element air cleaner top
plate I've been using), but I'm concerned about the half inch reduction in
height combined with the smaller circumference.  It would seem to me that
this results in a significant flow reduction as compared to the 212 filter.
As I noted, the 212 fits under the flapper door assembly, though I can see
where it might prevent the flapper from opening as far as originally
intended.  Anyone have any experience, or preferably track data, with
either filter?  Is there any reason why I wouldn't want to continue to use
the 212 filter and larger lid for improved air flow, since none of this
shows with the O.A.I. adapter in place (especially since the 212 is less
than half the price and readily available)?

On another note, AC lists alternate filters for both the 212 and the 366
with an extra foam prefilter over the paper.  These are A279C and A542C,
respectively.  And ironically (given the recent Poncho thread), the 366/542
filters are also used on Ram Air GTOs and Trans Ams from 1970-1980 with the
400, the 301, and the ever popular 403.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 10:46:55 PDT
From: "flynt myrick" <f_myrick@hotmail.com>
Subject: Window glass date codes

List members,
 Can any member teach me how to read the date codes etched in my 442's
window glass?  My codes for my 1969 442 are as follows:

                      Soft-Ray
                     Safety  Flo-Lite
                      AS2       JV4
                        Solid Tempered
                      DOT 15     M74



Any help will be appreciated.

Flynt Myrick
f_myrick@hotmail.com
http://www.hotmail.com


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 13:53:12 EDT
From: <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Cool Can

In a message dated 8/3/98, 1:27:13 PM, oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca writes:
<<Is their anybody out there who uses the cool can to keep their gas cool?
Does it make a noticeable difference?>>
I had the moroso can in mine. i noticed a major difference, the car screamed.
Want to buy it. :)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 12:57:37 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: Cool Can

But did it make a difference?

If it made a big difference in QT time, sure.  :  )
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
13 Wins 10 Losses
======================


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com [SMTP:AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com]
	Sent:	Monday, August 03, 1998 12:53 PM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	Re: Cool Can

	In a message dated 8/3/98, 1:27:13 PM, oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
writes:
	<<Is their anybody out there who uses the cool can to keep their gas
cool?
	Does it make a noticeable difference?>>
	I had the moroso can in mine. i noticed a major difference, the car
screamed.
	Want to buy it. :)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 11:05:48 -0700
From: "David Seiver - Account Executive" <DavidS@AnaServe.com>
Subject: AR Torq-Thrust "D" Rims

Does anyone know where I can find 2 15"x8" Torq-Thrust "D" Rims and or 2
15"x10-10.5" Torq-Thrust "D" Rims Used or cheaper than retail of $168???
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE!!!

David Seiver
Account Representative
AnaServe, Inc. - The Future of Web Hosting
Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283
Fax: 714.250.7265
e-mail: davids@anaserve.com
Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 11:07:29 -0700
From: "David Seiver - Account Executive" <DavidS@AnaServe.com>
Subject: pic of the Torq-Thrust "D" Rims

http://www.cybernetmall.com/cities/jackson/coupons/automotive/cwwd/wheels/to
rq-d.jpg

David Seiver
Account Representative
AnaServe, Inc. - The Future of Web Hosting
Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283
Fax: 714.250.7265
e-mail: davids@anaserve.com
Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 14:10:45 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re:Sunday's Union, IL Get-together (non-olds, delete now!)

In a message dated 98-08-02 11:59:19 EDT, you write:

<< No, here I am; just checking my messages before departure...

 > and I will be present, but not showing my car.
  >>

Uh, now I feel *really* bad...

Wanted to go but work night now...

And first night with old supervisor gone..and new lead person is....

As experienced as me, and lazier.

They only taught us some of the really important stuff last week.

I would have gone anyway, to bring my parents...because the show IS
spectacular and this was their last chance to go, they will live in MI next
year at this time.

They were told repeatedly about this since a year ago (exactly! I told
everyone that I knew about it and all three were apathetic!   :-)    ), and
again when I got the flyer, and again this week.

"Uh we have to go to this ****** at 5:00...."

Puh-leeez.

Next year, though!

And Andy? Guys?

Sorry.

Heh!

I am sorry, but then again, looks are not everything!

HAH!
I Slay Me!

K

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 14:12:50 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Cool Can  (also non-Olds. delete now)

In a message dated 98-08-03 13:59:42 EDT, you write:

<< the car screamed. >>

Why?
What did you do?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 14:13:35 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!

Before you delete this outright, there acually is a question at the bottom
that is....well urgent, so indulge me? Please?



So I had mentioned in this forun a month or so ago about how my gas tank vent
fitting or whatever was busted so it leaked only a little when full, and more
if parked on a non-level surface (esp. at curb!).

So this factoid tended to be a catch-all for excessive gasoline odors.

So people began mentioning the smell to me and thought i thought it was
getting worse, I merely made a mental not to do the fix sooner.

Last night I was getting my steel toed boots out of the trunk when I noticed
that it was warm *inside* the trunk......

[inside Karl's head: rrrrr?? ]

Instantly curious, I realize that the passenger side of the trunk floor is
warm to the touch, while the driver's side is cooler.

Soylent Ocean Mist has *single* exhaust.

The tip of which fell off (rust) much earlier this year.

So now the exh pipe ends in *front* of the tank and faces straight back.

[ Again:  Rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.  ]

[[[Translation: Mmmmh. So the exhaust heats the tank of gas slowly, and
increases the vapor pressure inside the tank. Higher vapor pressure = more gas
vapor vented. Simple.]]]

So I park Soylent on a concrete apron and goes and gets one of them run-o-the-
mill exh tips at the local parts place where I would only go to for ROTM
things, and I am getting medieval on the part to ensure a lasting temporary
fix when I goes out to the ride and instantly spot.....

A dark spot.

On the ground.

Under the car.

Where the front and rear doors meet!

DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!D
OH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DO
H!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH
!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!
!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!
!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!DOH!!!!

Or something.

Another in a long list of self-help books which includes such prominent titles
as "So, You Have Been Set on Fire and Thrown Off of a Building ... into a
briar patch" comes:

"So, Your 33-Year-Old-Car-Has a Crack in the Fuel Line."

Back to the crummy parts store.

Ask fo 14' of 3/8 inch rubber fuel line.

The got 12' on the only spool (coulda guessed that one).

But it should be enough, I overestimated for safety.

(Yah. Famous last words.)

But it got to be noon-ish then.
Karl gotsa get up at about 8pm to go to work.
Musta been leaking for some time; stench is not new.
I was using a bucket-o-carb cleaner on my barrel-o-carbs carb, and did not
think the smell particularly bad.

Just dint have opportunity to see spot before....
Was parking on curb of torn-up street.
(It is a work in progress, they are 20 days past the posted completion date!)
((Chicago! God save me from Municipalities and their employees!))
And also on dark-grey gravel (at work).

So Karl places catch can.
(Slightly more high tech than "Mad Max")
And goes inside to write long Email.

And the question is:

What is the best way to cut a steel fuel line (yah. with fuel inside!) to get
a 3/8 ID hose over the end without immolating myself, my car, my steel toed
boots, the house, the garage, br'er Fox, br'er Bear, Peter Rabbit........????

I have tentatively planned to use metal shears (tested on a 5" nail....seems
appropriate tool...), a pair of pliers and metal punch (to reopen from  semi-
pinched-shut the steel tubing and re-round it for flow...) and of course the
tubing.

My Q 2 U 'all is: what would you do and why?

Assume it is a rush job.
And yes, I can prolly drain the tank via a not-so-different arrangement (hose
patch between pre-existing steel tubing) on the front of the car.

Just will not be able to manage more than 8 gallons or so.....

And uh, thanks.
I cannot stress how important this is to me right now.

Incidentally, on 2GV carbs, where on the engine is the vacc source?
Assume you cannot use a sub-intake manifold part.

Thanks much.
KA
& SOM_______

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 14:23:02 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!

Karl,

I've always used a regular tubing cutter.  A torch probably isn't your best
bet.  Yes, gas will siphon out of the tank.  Just have a catch can ready.
You may want to elevate the side of the car with the fuel line to attempt
to prevent the siphon effect.  A better temporary permanent fix is to use a
compression fitting with the little brass ferrules to splice in a new piece
of hard line.  Rubber hose should be kept to a minimum in the fuel system -
especially in exposed areas like the straight runs on the frame rails (it
only takes one kicked-up rock...).

How bad is the crack?  Have you considered a temporary fix of slitting a
length of rubber hose and simply sliding this over the cracked area, using
a series of hose clamps to seal it against the crack?  Keep in mind that
this is a suction line (I'm assuming here that you're using a mechanical
fuel pump), so this band-aid should work for a couple of days until you can
effect more permanent repairs.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 13:40:55 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: bugs in the HEI?????

Check the carb vacuum breaks. They will do this very thing - chugging when hot,
but just fine when cold.

If you just painted the engine, most likely vacuum hoses where disconnected
before painting. Check the vacuum lines for proper placement. Or you used the
wrong brand of paint - ok that one can be ruled out!
- --
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 14:36:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Andrew A. Senko" <senko@reston.ans.net>
Subject: FS: 1972 Cutlass

Found this ad on UseNet (rec.autos.antique).  DO NOT REPLY to this message.
The owner will not see it.  Call the number listed if you are interested.
I do not know the owner or the car.
- --
Drew


*** 59k Original Miles ***

AC still COLD

350 Rocket that has had a rebuild in the last 2 years
    Edelbrock Carb., Air Cleaner, and Valve Covers. Slightly bigger
Cam.     New Dual Exhaust

400 Turbo Trans. w/Shift Kit

12 Bolt Posi 4:10 Gears (I was told) maybe 4:56?

Car was Bronse w/Brown top and Interior. Body was stripped and painted
Cortez Silver, NICE! New Black top, New Black Buckets, Door Panels,
Headliner, Carpet, Floor Console and Shift. The dash still needs
finished, so does the Package Tray area.

15x7 Olds Ralley Rims with New, less than 100 miles, B.F. Goodrich
Radial TA's.

This is a great driver and looks really sharp. I need to sell to help
with the expenses of a new garage I plan on building.

$5500.00
(614)497-3640 Dan Palmer (Columbus Ohio area)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 11:42:17 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!

> What is the best way to cut a steel fuel line (yah. with fuel
> inside!) to get a 3/8 ID hose over the end without immolating
> myself, my car, my steel toed boots, the house, the garage,
> br'er Fox, br'er Bear, Peter Rabbit........????

This is a slightly evasive answer, but... I would assume that
most of the nearby line is almost as rotted as the piece I am
attempting to repiar, and that the movements, vibration, other
twisting, etc., required to make the cuts you describe will
probably damage it further. I suggest bypassing the whole area
and running a fresh line from some convenient connection point
at the front to another convenient connection point at the back.
You should be able to run it parallel to the old one along most
of its journey, and tie old to new with nylon strapping or some
such wrapping.

This is not exactly a concours-quality repair, but having seen
SOM last year, I suspect this is not something that admirers
would find fault with... or even notice.  :-)

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 13:49:48 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: Cool Can

At one time I had two cars with Holley dual inlet carbs, both using the large
chrome inlet lines.  One car was a brand X with a cool can that I raced, the
other was my trusty Olds without a cool can.  The Olds had a nasty habit of
vapor lock at the carb due to the heat sink effect of the chrome line.  The
few times I tried to run it at the track I had fuel delivery problems after it
sat in the staging lanes.  I would have to start it and run the engine fairly
fast to keep the fuel moving, in a feeble attempt to ward off the dreaded
vapor lock.
On the other hand, the brand X car with the cool can full of ice never had a
problem in the same conditions.  Supposedly you can pick up a little ET due to
the denser fuel charge, but I don't know if I ever did.  I do know a cool can
would have been worth it's weight in gold on the Olds just to eliminate the
vapor lock.  I have now switched back to a Quadrajet and no longer have vapor
lock problems.  If you are going racing, I would suggest a cool can from my
experience, just to play it safe.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 15:15:44 EDT
From: <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Dbl humped-trans. crossmember

In a message dated 98-08-03 11:48:23 EDT, you write:

<< I will be putting headers on my '78 CS soon, (350 cid, TH350) and I need to
 >find a dual-humped trans. crossmember.  Does anyone know of an aftermarket
 >source?
 >I'd modify an old one, but I don't know how to weld.
 >Is anyone parting put a car with a custom crossmember? >>
whoa...  i have a '78 cs with a 350cid, th350 too!!!  for my exhaust system i
used a crossmember out of a '72 (i think) cutlass.  its the double hump type,
and to put it in i had to cut about 1 1/4" off of each side. also had to
remove the support for the original crossmember located on the pass. side of
the frame.  you will also need a new method of support for the rear of the
tranny.  i made a block of steel about 3" tall to make up for the difference.
i have headman headers, 2.5" pipes, and 2 chamber flowmasters on mine.  good
luck,
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 14:24:48 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!

>What is the best way to cut a steel fuel line (yah. with fuel
inside!) to get
>a 3/8 ID hose over the end without immolating myself, my car, my
steel toed
>boots, the house, the garage, br'er Fox, br'er Bear, Peter
Rabbit........????


Buy a $5 compact tubing cutter.  They are very small, about 1" square.
You fit it over the line and start spinning it.  Every other turn or
so, you crank down on the wheel and sooner or later you have cut the
line and it's still round!

Use two clamps on each end of the rubber line for security.

I would not use 12feet of rubber line unless it was a very temporary
fix.  It's a safety issue.  NHRA won't even let you on the track if
you have more than 1 foot of rubber line from the tank to carburetor!
They allow just enough to connect lengths of steel line.

The best method would be to get a prebent set of lines from a supplier
like year one.  the other option would be stainless braid (expensive
though).  Or you can save some money and bend some yourself, but that
is most likely a huge pain the ass and more of an artform than just
bolting something together.

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 15:30:09 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!

In a message dated 98-08-03 14:43:37 EDT, you write:

<<  I suggest bypassing the whole area and running a fresh line from some
convenient connection point at the front to another convenient connection
point at the back. You should be able to run it parallel to the old one along
most of its journey, and tie old to new with nylon strapping or some such
wrapping. >>

As I said, 14' was extravagant. 12' will still allow me from the free (room
for Karl to work, cuss et alii....) space just forward of rear wheel to fuel
pump.

Sorry.

Karl meant to say fuel FILTER.

Which does precede fuel pump.

Karl did that when he swapped steel tubing to braided hose for Pump-Carb.
Talk on this list and also on talking with Mary Ludlam of the Toro list in
Lansing at Centennial (and SOM did not leak while there, of course, I was just
getting over a worn batt cable problem and......well, see the archives)
precipitated in a pre-pump filter. (all ready for 3/8" hose)


<< This is not exactly a concours-quality repair, but having seen SOM last
year, I suspect this is not something that admirers would find fault with...
or even notice.  :-) >>

HAH!

insert Terry Bradshaw; "Oh yes! I remember it well!"

And (compared to last year) reason Karl would not have showed car in good
conscience was January front-end collision. Again, see archives.

And Jeff would prolly agree. (Jeff?)

(Karl Guesses Jeff off list....)

No-one would notice.
Really.

Thanks Andy!
KA
&SOM_____**

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 15:32:40 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!

In a message dated 98-08-03 15:18:59 EDT, you write:

<< The best method would be to get a prebent set of lines from a supplier like
year one. >>

For full size?

HAH!

I will prolly end up bending it myself.

Guess what I will be doing this weekend?

Well, I needed to drop the tank to fix the vent anyway........

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 15:43:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: ttjbmm@webtv.net (todd thomas)
Subject: Re: Garage Stuffdave

I am looking for a proportioning valve for a 1972 442 w30. This valve is
a three position valve. If you have one please let me know.

thanks
Todd Thomas
1972w30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 14:50:05 -0500
From: "Kijowski, Stan" <SKIJOWSKI@midland.com>
Subject: RE: Garage Stuffdave

i believe i might have what you are looking for. it is a brand new
combination valve from year one inc.  (p/n 8383n) with the rear brake
proportioning feature. not sure but if i do the price would be right. give
me a call 816-801-2300

> ----------
> From: 	ttjbmm@webtv.net[SMTP:ttjbmm@webtv.net]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Monday, August 03, 1998 2:43 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: Garage Stuffdave
>
> I am looking for a proportioning valve for a 1972 442 w30. This valve is
> a three position valve. If you have one please let me know.
>
> thanks
> Todd Thomas
> 1972w30
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 15:51:38 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Cool Can

In a message dated 98-08-03 14:51:19 EDT, you write:

<<  Supposedly you can pick up a little ET due to the denser fuel charge, but
I don't know if I ever did.  I do know a cool can would have been worth it's
weight in gold on the Olds just to eliminate the vapor lock. >>

Enough said!

(Geez! I cannot believe I am still up!)

BUT!!!!
(and this is *especially* for Sam's benefit!)
(((Although others may profit)))

When you install a cool can.

You MUST "dial in" your Holley double pumper again!

And I mean especially changing your main jets!

Swap in one jet (of the higher or lower size) at a time.

At this time I can only speak for Roch carbs, but the principle should be the
same.

Each size of Roch main Jet is approx. equal to a certain # of cubic inches.

And Roch uses a similar # system, 69 (((wahoo))), 71, 72.

BUT the Roch jets likely do not interchange or correlate to Holley sizes.
But that is just a guess.

What I am trying to say is that a cool can will essentially make the gasoline
denser. Essentially flowing more gasoline moecules into your engine. But this
will make you run leaner ( Right Chris R.? ) than you are set up for right
now.

Uh. That should read Molecules.

But as long as it still reads the same... that brings me to.....

Curly-cues!

HAH!
I slay me!

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 16:05:38 -0400
From: D Frizsell <dfrizsell@WCUVAX1.WCU.EDU>
Subject: Re: Bad luck

Sorry to hear that man.
My Rottwielers, Whiskey and Amanda pretty much take care of my stuff! Next time
they have pups (if there is a next time), I'll keep you in mind!

D-man

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 16:05:39 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Yet More Rust

In a message dated 98-08-02 08:46:51 EDT, you write:

<< You spray it on, wait over night, and it reacts with the rust to turn it
into something you can sand and paint over. >>

Things of this nature have been on the market for several years.

Or at least four.

Karl would like to hear from anyone who used it.

Partly because Karl's experience with Rust-oleum (around house! none on car!)
is less than favorable.

Back railing is steel and gets R-oleum every time rust causes paint flaking.

Which is......twice or so in 20 years and rust causing paint flaking now.
Call it thrice.

Someone mentioned some odd name like zinc-o-metal or sume such on this thread.

I just wanted to mention that that was a flash-in-the-pan thread some years
back.

Called Galvanizing.

And,  I just remembered.
After reading my previous post on this thread.

My apologies if it sounded like I was heckling the person who explained the
reasons for nautical rust.

I was not.

I had truly never heard of that.
I guess if the earth is a negative ground then naval vessels are in much
better contact with ground than SOM will ever be.

And likewise to the person who posted the missive about zinc-plating.....
it is just a joke!
No flames,   please?

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 13:05:41 -0700
From: "Rob" <rob@intergate.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: Re:Sunday's Union, IL Get-together (non-olds, delete now!)

Hello,
     Don't know why, but I recieved this e-mail
from you that is not addressed to me. You may
wish to resend to your friend as they might not
have recieved it.
Robert Macdougall
rob@intergate(dot)bc(dot)ca

- ----------
> From: KarlAune@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re:Sunday's Union, IL Get-together (non-olds, delete now!)
> Date: August 3, 1998 11:10 AM
>
> In a message dated 98-08-02 11:59:19 EDT, you write:
>
> << No, here I am; just checking my messages before departure...
>
>  > and I will be present, but not showing my car.
>   >>
>
> Uh, now I feel *really* bad...
>
> Wanted to go but work night now...
>
> And first night with old supervisor gone..and new lead person is....
>
> As experienced as me, and lazier.
>
> They only taught us some of the really important stuff last week.
>
> I would have gone anyway, to bring my parents...because the show IS
> spectacular and this was their last chance to go, they will live in MI
next
> year at this time.
>
> They were told repeatedly about this since a year ago (exactly! I told
> everyone that I knew about it and all three were apathetic!   :-)    ),
and
> again when I got the flyer, and again this week.
>
> "Uh we have to go to this ****** at 5:00...."
>
> Puh-leeez.
>
> Next year, though!
>
> And Andy? Guys?
>
> Sorry.
>
> Heh!
>
> I am sorry, but then again, looks are not everything!
>
> HAH!
> I Slay Me!
>
> K

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 15:10:21 -0500
From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <jeff.easton@ABBOTT.COM>
Subject: Re: Union, IL: Good Time Had by All

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>

>I've seen more of Jeff Easton's 442 (three viewings) than I have
>of Jeff Easton (once),

Who, me?  I was there, honest :-)  I actually got lost inside
the SF FP-45 for a couple of hours, that must be why you missed me. :-)

>                     and it was there again holding up the good
>name of Olds and drawing a lot of attention, even when parked next
>to an extremely red '67 (?) 442 convertible.

And on the other side was a '70 ch*velle.  I think even that guy
had Olds envy by the end of the day...

>Also in the vicinity
>was a '73 W-30 and '74 H/O Pace Car, the latter sporting a 100th
>Anniversary window flag, and a very nice '67 Toro in bright white.

There was a blue Toro over in one of the club spaces as well.

>Last year's '75 airbag-equipped Delta 88 didn't show this year,

Yeah, I also noticed he didnt make it.  I gave him the RE Olds number
last year and told him to call them, as they were looking for his car
for the Centennial.  Didnt see the car there either...

- -Jeff

Jeff Easton
1970  442  4-Speed
jeff.easton@abbott.com

see the Olds archives at http://www.calcon.net/~easton

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 16:21:37 -0400
From: talcarol@erie.net (Chris Kugler)
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: '83-'88 Ram Air Hood

No, sorry I didn't.  After calling around and finding a place that has the
hoods I couldn't wait for them to make it so I kept my old hood.
Chris
>
>Did you buy one of these hoods yet?  If so, what'd you think of it?
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 16:34:40 -0500 (EST)
From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu>
Subject: re: 6 banger Firebird

>             The 78-79 Firebird could be had with the Buick 231 motor.
> My girl friend drove such a car - plenty of room in the engine bay -
> easy to maintain.....

Heh heh... haven't ever "attempted" to change the plugs/wires etc. on a
231 powered Cutlas have you?  Plenty of room yes... but things are SO
SQUISSHED together against the firewall... it's necessary to half-way
remove the ac. to pull a valve cover... spark plugs are REALLY a b*&$#
too... definitely not designed to be easily worked on.  ;-)  I had MUCH
more room for routine maintenance with the 350 in my '84 than my friend
had with the 231 in his '83.


    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
 |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
 |  |  |     work:  GQPR12E@Prodigy.com
 |  |  |
 | / \ |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
 |/   \|
  \   /      1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
   \ /          (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
    |        1980 Rover 3500 SD1
		(215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
	     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
		(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 16:37:33 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: FOR SALE: Parts 64-72 Cutlass/442/Toro

                                          C&M Classic Parts
                       1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                                (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
                                         <chermac@exis.net>
                                               OCA# 24275

Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm,  Sat 9:00 am - 3:00 pm,  Sunday Closed
*We accept all major Credit Cards. VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and Discover.*
Lots of new reproduction parts will be coming out Fall/Winter 98.

** As of August we will NOT make UPS or mail shipments to Canada.**

                                         GM Restoration Parts

New arrival "Parts"
70 442 4 spd Rolling body (rough, U pick-up)  $300.00
70-72 Dash Chrome Bead (new)  $58.00 ea
69-72 Conv. Window Fuzzies (correct bead Outers only)  $50.00 set
Super Stock I and II/III centers (N.O.S.)  SALE $31.00 ea.
64-72 Rear Sway Bar  $50.00
64-72 442 Boxed Control Arms  $100.00 pr
68-70 3.42 12 Bolt "O" Type posi   $675.00
64-67 Console Vacuum Gauge assm (Aftermarket Tach in housing)  $40.00
64-66 Auto Console (black, w/wiring, nice)  $125.00
66 442 Grille (good bars, decent rocket, 1 tab missing)  $100.00
68-72 W-30 Stick Cam .475 lift/ 328 dur. (N.O.S. in box)  $275.00
67 8 Track Player (nice, works?)  $75.00
68 8 Track Player (needs work, nice unit, housing broken)  $65.00
66 Toro Front Valance Panel (complete w/headlight assm)  $90.00
71 Cutlass "S" Grilles (nice used)  $100.00 pr
66 442/Cutlass Owners Manual (mint)  $12.00
64-72 Power Door Lock Solenoids  $35.00 ea
64-67 Auto Trans Flexplates  $35.00
69 ERTL Hurst/ Olds (discontinued)  $45.00
65-67 400 Jahn's Pistons (new, + .025, floating pins)  $300.00
66-67 Fan Shroud (nice, 1 repaired bolt area)  $80.00
69-72 Tilt Steering Column (1 console, 1 column shift) $150 cons, $125 col.
Toro Oil Pan (w/HV Melling pump and pickup) $135.00
69-72 442 Air Cleaner (correct large snorkel, reg or OAI base)  $185.00
68-72 Z-bar  $45.00 ea
70-72 350 4 bbl Intake Manifold  $55.00
68-72 Conv. Windshield molding set (mint)  $125.00 set
68-72 4 spd. Z bar support (bolt on) $15.00
69-72 Seat Backs & Lower Sides (nice orig, black or tan)  $100.00 set
64-67 A/C Chrome Dash Bezels (nice)  $40.00 pr
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgates Switch Bezels (mint)  $5.00 ea
65-67 425 "D" Block std bore, small lifter bore  $85.00

New Repro Parts:
64-67 Battery Tray (Repro)  $30.00
66 442 Tri-Carb Linkage Kit (complete) $78.00
67 442 Grille Bar (repro)  $96.00
67 Fender Eye Brow Moldings (LH/RH, repro)  $73.00 pr
66-67 442/Cutlass Drip Rail Moldings (NEW, repro) $78.00 set
67-70 Turn Signal Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea
67-70 Tilt Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea
67-75 TH400 Shifter Cable Bracket (Repro)  $28.00
68-72 License Plate Bracket (Repro)  $26.50
68-70 W-31 Cam Kits (w/lifters & lube)  $132.00
68-72 1/4 Glass Chrome Moldings (Repro)  $92.00 pr
69-72 Rear Spoiler (3 piece repro)  $255.00
70-72 Hood Pin Kits (NEW, original supplier, complete) $115.00
71or72 442 Grille Numeral Sets (repro, either year)  $34.00 set
71-72 442 Hood Emblem (repro, Non OAI) $20.00

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts 1964-1972 Olds/Cutlass/442
64 BIG CAR (N.O.S.) RH Fender  $340.00
64-72 Clutch Inspection covers (N.O.S.)  $22.00 ea
68-72+ TH Torque Converter Cover (Plastic, N.O.S.)  $36.00 ea
66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
68-7? Under Hood Light kits (N.O.S.)  $35.00 ea
69-72 442 Trunk Numeral Sets (N.O.S.) $45.00 set
69-70 442 Hood Numeral Sets  (N.O.S.) $47.00 set
69-72 442 Fender Numeral Sets (N.O.S.) $34.00 set
70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
70-72 OAI Air Cleaner Springs (N.O.S)  $5.00 ea
71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr
71-72 Front Grille Plastics (N.O.S)  $35.00 ea
72 Cutlass Supreme & Hurst/Olds Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr
73-77 Cutlass/442/Hurst Wiper Switch (N.O.S.)  $22.00

New Aftermarket Parts
Competition Cams 280H Magnum cam (new)  $120.00
66-72 Oil Pressure Sending Unit (With Gauges)  $24.00 ea
64-87 Oil Pressure Sending Unit (W/O Gauges)  $13.00 ea
69-72 Ignition Switch (w/o tilt)  *new*  $24.00
69-72 Ignition Switch (w/tilt) *new*  $22.00
70-72 455 Engine Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $32.00 pr
64-67 330 / 68-72 350 Engine Mount (NEW)  $32.00 pr
64-72 Jetaway/TH350, 4 Spd Trans Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $14.00
350/455 Oil Pump Screens (NEW)  $13.00 ea
425/455 Toro Oil Pump Screens (NEW)  $20.00 ea
STD Melling Oil Pumps (NEW)  $30.00 ea
Hi Volume Melling Oil Pumps (NEW)  $46.00 ea
330/350 10.5 in x 10 spline Clutch Kits includes Pressure plate, disc,
throwout bearing, alignment tool. (all NEW pieces)  $135.00 + $19.00 core 
charge
400/455 11.0 in x 10 spline Clutch Kits same as above (all NEW pieces)
$135.00 +$19.00 core charge
3&4 Spd. Pilot Bushing (Bronze) new  $7.50 ea
3&4 Spd. HD Roller Pilot Bearing new  $24.50 ea

Used Parts:
64 Cutlass/442
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $75.00
64-65 Spinner Hubcab (dual bar, single)  $35.00
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00
Front Bumper Core  $50.00
F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00
64-65 F-85 Steering Wheel Center (mint)  $15.00

65 Cutlass/442
65 442 Air Cleaner Top (no base)  $100.00
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $75.00
65 Cutlass Dash Emblem (mint)  $20.00
64-65 Spinner Hubcab (dual bar, single)  $35.00
65 Cutlass 4 Door Rear Wheelwell Die cast pieces (front)  $20.00 pr
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  LH/RH rear $15.00 ea
64-65 F-85 Steering Wheel Center (mint)  $15.00

66 Cutlass/442
(1) 66-67 14x6 SSI  (good cond)  $50.00
66-67 442 Air Cleaner (1 nice, 1 good)  $85.00 (good)  $165.00 (nice)
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $75.00
66 Cutlass-67 Cutlass/442 Fenders (Arizona parts, nice)  $500.00 pr
66-67 Dash Insert (painted)  $45.00
66-67 Inner Fender Plastic Clips $1.00 ea
66 442 Trunk Chrome Panels  $100.00 ea
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Emblem $10.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Molding  $20.00
66 Fender Eybrows (nice, no pits)  $35.00 pr
66 Spinner Hubcap (Tri bar, single)  $20.00
66 Floor Shift Steering Column Collars $10.00 ea
66-67 Clocks  $40.00 ea
66 F-85 Deluxe/Cutlass Steering Wheel Center (w/hub) $20.00
66 Cutlass Supreme Dash Emblem (very nice)  $20.00
66 F-85 Deluxe Dash Emblem (nice)  $5.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Molding  $35.00
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
66 Cutlass Trunk Molding (very good)  $45.00
66 Cutlass Tail Light Bezels (very good)  $85.00 pr
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (nice)   $55.00
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (good)  $35.00
66-67 AM Radios (nice)  $30.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
66 Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
Post Coupe Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr
F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea

67 Cutlass/442
(1) 66-67 14x6 SSI  (good cond)  $50.00
67 Front Bumper Filler Panel (mint)  $40.00
67 442/Cutlass Radiator Support (nice)  $130.00
66-67 442 Air Cleaner (1 nice, 1 good)  $85.00 (good)  $165.00 (nice)
66-67 Dash Insert (painted)  $45.00
66-67 Inner Fender Plastic Clips $1.00 ea
67 442 Trunk Panel (beautiful)  $150.00
67 Deluxe Full Wheel Covers $35.00 set
66-67 Clocks  $40.00 ea
67 Cutlass Dash Emblem (good)  $10.00
67 Cutlass Supreme Dash Emblems (2 very nice)  $20.00 ea
67 442/Cutlass Front Bumper Guards  $15.00 pr
67 Remote Mirror (good, not great)  $20.00
67 F-85 Steering Wheel Center (good chrome) $15.00
67 Cutlass Supreme/442 Steering Wheel Centers (mint)  $35.00
67 Fender End Caps  $30.00 pr
67 4 spd Speedometer Adapter (3.42 gears & 4spd)  $45.00
67 Plain Cutlass Holiday Hardtop interior door panels and rear sides (very
nice, blue/green) $85.00 set of 4
67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea
67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.50 ea
66-67 AM Radios  (nice)  $30.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $50.00 pr
67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $100.00 ea
67 442 Pie Tin Decal  $3.00
67 RH Fender (small metal patch panel, straight)  $165.00

68 Cutlass/442
68 442 Air Cleaner Heat tube assm (2 pieces)  $30.00
68-69 442 Glove Box Door (black)  $18.00
68-69 LH Plastic Inner Fender (w/black washer bottle)  $65.00
68-69 442/W-30 400 Intake Manifold  $50.00
68 Cutlass/442 Backup Lens (nice)  $22.00 pr
68 Trunk Vinyl Top Molding & Plate  $25.00
68 2 bbl Air Cleaner  $20.00
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
68 Turn Signal Lens (mint)  $12.00 ea
68 Cutlass Rear Bumper (core)  $75.00
68-69 14x6 SSII Wheels (set of 5)  $200.00
68 AM Radio  $25.00
68  8-Track Unit (housing cracked, needs plastic one)  $55.00
68-69 Driver Side Remote Mirror (good)  $45.00
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00
Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00
68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $25.00 ea
68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Sets (black, mint) $27.50 pr

69 Cutlass/442
68-69 442 Glove Box Door (black)  $18.00
68-69 LH Plastic Inner Fender (w/black washer bottle)  $65.00
69 Front Bumper (no pits, bent from tow truck)  $85.00
69 Cutlass Grilles (mint LH, N.O.S. RH)  $140.00 pr
69 Cutlass Rear Bumper (nice, no pits, straight)  $110.00
69 Tail light Bezels (mint)  $150.00 pr
69 Head light Housings (mint)  $75.00 pr
69 Head light Bezels (mint)  $65.00 pr
69 Hood Tongue $20.00
68-69 442/W-30 400 Intake Manifold  $50.00
69 Convertible Trunk Lid (nice)  $150.00
69 Turn Signal Lens (nice)  $25.00 pr
69 Front Grille Center Filler (between grilles)  $8.00
69 Full Hubcaps (nice)  $35.00 set
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
69 Cutlass RH Grille (nice, used)  $40.00
69 Radiator Core Support 3 Row (mint, no rust holes)  $150.00
69 Headlight Bezels  $60.00 pr
69-72 Hood Hinges  $40.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Louver Chrome  $25.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Louver Moldiings  $25.00 pr
68-72 Windshield Molding Sets  $45.00 set
69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
69 RH Fender (small nickel sized hole)  $200.00
69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $55.00 ea
69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $25.00 ea

70 Cutlass/442
70 Hood Tongue $40.00
70 Front Bumper (core)  $85.00
70 Fender Eybrows (nice, no pits)  $45.00 pr
70 RH Rally 350 grille (repaired, nice)  $75.00
70 LH/RH Hood "L" moldings (few small pits under side, nice) $95.00 pr
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
70 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr
70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (excellent)  $115.00
70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
70-72 455 Std. Iron intake manifold (auto cars)  $55.00
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea
70 F-85 Horn Button (cheap style wheel, excellent)  $10.00
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00
69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00
69-70 "S" Hood Chrome Vents  $25.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Vent Moldings  $25.00 pr
70 "S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr
70 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $90.00
70-72 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens (restored)  $17.00 ea
70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens (restored) $23.00 ea

71 Cutlass/442
71-72 Fan Shroud (mint)  $50.00
70-71 Cutlass Supreme Side Marker Lights (mint)  $70.00 set
71 LH Cutlass Supreme Grille (nice)  $85.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 pr
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
70-72 C/S LH/RH Side Glass  $25.00 ea
71 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr

72 Cutlass/442
71-72 Fan Shroud (mint)  $50.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 pr
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00
72 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr
72 Tail Light Lens  $13.00 ea

73 and Newer and Big Car Parts:
66-67 TH425 Toro Transaxle  (switchpitch, very good)  $200.00
Late 73-74 Olds HEI distributors (non cumputer, w/cap and coil)  $45.00 ea
73-75 442 Console and Shifter (Maroon)  $120.00
73-77 Omega Floor Shift Tilt  $65.00
75 Omega Front Fenders (very nice pair)  $180.00 pr
75 Omega Bucket Seats (nice, maroon cloth)  $85.00 pr
66-67 Toronado Rear Bumper (very nice)  $150.00
66 Toro Batman Steering Wheel, Tilt/Tele column (black, very nice)  $145.00
72 Delta 88 Qtr End caps  $25.00 pr
72 Delta 88/ Ninety Eight Owners Manual (nice) $5.00
62 Super 88 Tail Panel Chrome  (good)  $25.00
62 Super 88 Grille (good)  $50.00
62 Big Car (88, 98, Starfire) Front Bumper (straight, very good)  $125.00


New reproduction parts:
Convertible Top Boots (Correct Grains for each different year)  $85.00ea
64  Black, Red, Lt. Blue, Fawn, Saddle, Turqoise, White
65  Same as 64
66-67 Black, Red, Light Blue, Med. Blue, Bronze, Turqoise, White, Gold
68-72 Black, Red, Parchment, Lt. Blue, Teal Blue, Green Gold, Gold, Pearl,
Dk Blue, Dk. Green, Lt. Green, Lt. Saddle, Dk Saddle, Olive Green, Royal
Blue, White, Sandalwood,

Molded Carpet Sets  $95.00
64-67 - (Black, Red, Med. Blue, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Maroon)
68-72 - (Black, Red, Maroon, Turqoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Med. Blue, Dk. Green,
Green Gold, Lt. Green, Teal Blue, Saddle, Sandalwood)
73-77 - (Same as 68-72 except Green Gold)

Door Panels  64-72  $Inquire

Seat Covers  64-72  $345.00 front and rear sets any year or color.

Vinyl Dash Overlays (makes your wood dash areas look like carbon fiber)
$50.00 set

Lifetime Guarantee on all correct bead window felts  $92.00 set (inner & outer)
66-67 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (correct bead type)
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (not Supreme Coupes, correct bead)
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv (Outers only, correct bead)  $50.00

Replacement Window Felts (Flat type)  $60.00 set (inner & outer)
64-72 Cutlass/442 (state year and model)

Glove Box Liners
64-67 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
68-69 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
70-72 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99

Qrt Seals
70-72 Cutlass Supreme & Conv Qtr End seals  $13.00 pr

Hood Insulation
64-65 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
66 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
67 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
68-70 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner (wclips)  $18.00
70-72 Cutlass Supreme Hood Liner (w/clips)  $18.00
73-77 Cutlass $28.00

Liner Clips
Round Clips  $1.00 ea
Square Clips  $1.00 ea

A-Arm Shields
68-72 Upper A-Arm dust shields  $14.99 pr

***** 69-72 "W" and "Z" exhaust manifold sets (REPRO) Winter 98 *****
       We will be test fitting and running them later this year before they
are shipped to GM for final approval. They will be available exclusively
from C&M.
Price is around $300.00 for a set. Different date codes will not be
available at this time. Maybe in the future. Delay has occurred due to
change in manufacturer.

        66-67 "X" and "W" exhaust manifold sets (REPRO) Spring 99

***** Shift Indicators for ALL console A-body 64-75 and 63 Starfires will be
available in July/August. Including Dual Gates.

        66 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $1795.00
        67 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $995.00
        66 & 67 Track Pac kits (complete, just like the dealer option includes;
        shroud, ducts, hoses, cam/lifters, battery accessories)
Winter/Spring 98/99.

TOY'S:
69 442's (HotWheels size, Speed Rebels) Red $1.75 ea
Johnny Lightning Pace Cars
70 442 Pace Car (bronze or teal)  $3.50 ea
74 Hurst/Olds Pace Car (magenta)  $3.50 ea
79 Delta 88 Pace Car (White)  $3.50 ea

Others:
70 GTO Judge (Yellow) $1.75 ea

Models:
67 W-30 442 (Lindberg)  $14.00 ea

Odds and Ends (not Olds, but GM parts we have lying around)
70-74 Trans Am Exhaust Tips (N.O.S)  $150.00 pr
68-71 Buick GS Ram Air air cleaner assm  $150.00
70-72 Buick AM/FM Stereo $150.00
71-72 Chevelle SS Emblem Kit (complete car, N.O.S. and Repro, includes door
panel SS N.O.S. emblems)  $140.00
64-65 Pontiac Chrome Valve Covers  $45.00 pr
Mid 60's Pontiac Dog Dish Hubcaps (nice)  $80.00 set

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1403
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