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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1406


oldsmobile-digest      Wednesday, August 5 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1406



Re: God Loves Oldsmobilers....was DOH!
re: G body gauges
POSI NEEDED
How do I remove windshield from 74 98
Re: POSI NEEDED
Re: Oil drain plug HELP?
Re: How do I remove windshield from 74 98
Re: How do I remove windshield from 74 98
Re: Anyone recognize this hood?????
Re: Oil drain plug HELP?
Re: I give up.
RE: How do I remove windshield from 74 98
Re: CARB. VACUUM?
RE: POSI NEEDED
Re:  G-body Gauges! Again!
Re:  LIST...
Re: POSI NEEDED
Re: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!
Re: B-body discs
1960 88 info
Lifespan of Tires
Re: Lifespan of Tires
Steering Wheel
Re: Lifespan of Tires
Re: Electronic Circuit Design Needed
Re: Steering Wheel
RE: How do I remove windshield from 74 98
Re: Lifespan of Tires
4-SALE
Neat road rage site
Re: 68 Ign.
Re: Steering Wheel
Heater hose length and routing
Drivin' the 85 KICKS A$$!:)
Re: 68 Ign.
UNBOUNCE: 69 442 Conv for sale
Re: Heater hose length and routing
EGR blockoff
G-body custom hood insulation
Larry's F/S 81 CSB???
Re: EGR blockoff
Re: EGR blockoff
UNBOUNCE: G-body alloy wheels FS
Re: UNBOUNCE: 69 442 Conv for sale
Re: SPRINGS 67 f85 425bb
Re: Re: Cool Can
455 in a 79 Cutlass?
Turn signal problems.
87 Cutlass Parts
Re: 455 in a 79 Cutlass?
Re: Turn signal problems.
Re: SPRINGS 67 f85 425bb
vandalism prevention
Re: 455 in a 79 Cutlass?
Help with rear diff, crsovr
Re:  87 Cutlass Parts
Re: UNBOUNCE: 69 442 Conv for sale
Looking for a 64 cutlass
How much $$$ 4 Ram-Air Setup
information
More F28 Olds Queries
MSD'S IGNITION MODULE?
Re: LIST...
Looking for...

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 13:28:28 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: God Loves Oldsmobilers....was DOH!

Should, or almost, I have started cars from right-empty before, and it
either runs until the pump fills the carb, or almost and only requires a
little turning over.

TIP: If you pour gas directly into the vent?? at the front of the carb
(Little pipe sticking up at the front), it pours gas right into the carb
and starts just like it was full of gas, not like priming directly into
the intake..

Eric
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:
> Final Q...
>
> If lines sealed, will carb gas keep me running long enough for pump to siphon
> gas from tank?
>
> If I can have line go above fuel pump.....
>
> <sigh>
>
> KA
> &SOM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 15:39:37 -0500 (EST)
From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu>
Subject: re: G body gauges

On my '84 I routed mine through the existing hole near the steering
collumn.  You may have to buy an oil pressure line slightly longer than
the one that came with your kit (which by the way if the line is plastic
and is rolled up very tightly... one secret is to soak the line in hot
water for a little bit and then get 2 people to stretch it taut... also be
sure to use a rubber grommet of some type on the sharp metal in the hole
in the firewall to keep from puncturing the oil line... I found this out
the hard way... ask me how hard it is to clean up a quart of spilled used
oil out of your floorboard/carpet).



    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
 |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
 |  |  |     work:  GQPR12E@Prodigy.com
 |  |  |
 | / \ |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
 |/   \|
  \   /      1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
   \ /          (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
    |        1980 Rover 3500 SD1
		(215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
	     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
		(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 12:52:00 -0700
From: "David Seiver - Account Executive" <DavidS@AnaServe.com>
Subject: POSI NEEDED

I also need a posi and gears  (or whatever) for my 12 bolt original rear
end.
Any leads?

David Seiver
Account Representative
AnaServe, Inc. - The Future of Web Hosting
Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283
Fax: 714.250.7265
e-mail: davids@anaserve.com
Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 15:14:13 +0000
From: pipe <banner@kwom.com>
Subject: How do I remove windshield from 74 98

I have a bad leak coming in from the top of my windshield on my 1974 98.

I pulled the trim and removed all the old caulk and put new in. But it
still leaks.
It now has rust on the inside roof frame, and every time I hit a bump
rust
rains down on me! Not good when you are trying to impress the
girlfriend.
Thanks

James Aiello
74 98
74 98 parts
70 442
70 cutlass convert. restoring
71 cutlass ht. parts

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 16:04:49 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: POSI NEEDED

I also need a posi and gears  (or whatever) for my 12 bolt original rear
end.
Any leads?

David Seiver
_________________

Help us out, David.  What year and model of car, and is it a Type O or Type
C 12 bolt?

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-03

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 16:19:41 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Oil drain plug HELP?

If you can't get a self tapping one to work, I have used a rubber drain plug
on customers cars that comes with an installation tool. You put the plug on
the tool which stretches it way out straight. Insert it into the hole and
twist and pull the plug out. Sounds hokey, but I've never seen one fail.
I've probably put 10 of them in 10 cars in ten years. As far as I know, none
have failed (or even leaked).
- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Comid <Comid>
Date: Tuesday, August 04, 1998 10:33 AM
Subject: Oil drain plug HELP?


>
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>Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 09:27:02 -0500 (CDT)
>From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
>To: OldsML <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Subject: Oil drain plug HELP?
>Message-Id: <Pine.A32.3.91.980804091841.22092A-100000@one.camd.lsu.edu>
>X-Orcpt: rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h
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>Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>
>Hi List,
>
>the oil drain plug thread on my L*nc*ln is totally messed up (not by me,
>by the former owner who must have brought it to a bad lube place.)
>I definetly need to do the oil change soon but don't want to take out the
>oil pan to weld on a nut. (That is the only idea I have so far...)
>The bolt plug is already one of those thread self cutting things you can
>get here in the part stores... so that won't work anymore.
>
>Does anyone know a place (catalog) where you can order plugs with a
>rubber gasket which swells up when you tighten the screw? I know, this is
>not a good solution for an Olds but for an old 460 to pull an Olds it is
>definetly enough...
>
>Thanks for you help.
>
>George
>
>--------------------------------------------------------------
>'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
>--------------------------------------------------------------
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 17:21:32 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: How do I remove windshield from 74 98

Don't be too quick to blame the sealant between the windshield and body.
If you've attacked that already I'd bet the leak is coming from some
rust-out around one of the rivets that the trim clips were attached with.
Common problem when these cars get older. Remove the windshield stainless
again and check the condition of the clips and rivet holes. If it has a
vinyl roof also pull up the front edge of the vinyl and check for rust.
I've had all these problems too...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 16:18:08 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: How do I remove windshield from 74 98

...I pulled the trim and removed all the old caulk and put new in. But it
still leaks.  It now has rust on the inside roof frame, and every time I
hit a bump
rust rains down on me! Not good when you are trying to impress the
girlfriend.
Thanks

James Aiello
____________

Bad news, James.  It sounds like you may have the dreaded pinchweld rust
problem.  On this vintage car, GM used spring clips to retain the chrome
trim around the windshield.  These clips are retained by snapping over
welded studs projecting from the edge of the metal around the windshield
opening.  Unfortunately, installation of the clips can scratch the paint,
resulting in rust.  Eventually, this rust will eat its way through, aided
by leaves and dirt trapped under the chrome strip.  The only effective fix
is to pull the windshield and repair the rust hole, preferably by welding
in new metal.

As for windshield removal, once the chrome is off (including the strip at
the base of the windshield) and the wipers are removed, get a length of
music wire - about 4 feet of it.  Using a needle nose pliers, feed the wire
through the sealer along one side of the windshield, until it projects
about equally on the inside and outside.  Wrap each end of the wire around
a length of wooden dowel or other suitable handle.  With the help of a
friend, pull this wire around the perimeter of the windshield, cutting the
sealer.  The windshield should now be loose from the car.

To reinstall the glass once you've repaired any rust, remove any residual
sealer from the glass and the frame.  Purchase a windshield sealing tape
kit from your friendly local auto paint store (this is made by 3M and
basically is a roll of black sealing tape).  Clean the sealing surfaces
thoroughly with a degreaser (I use Prep Sol to ensure no residual grease
remains).  Run the tape around the inside perimeter of the glass, lightly
pressing it in place.  Cut a clean butt seam in the tape, preferably at the
bottom center of the windshield.  Again with the help of a friend, lift the
windshield into place, taking care to center it in the opening (you won't
be able to move it once it's in place.  Press firmly around the perimeter
to seal the tape to the frame, then reinstall the trim.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 13:26:43 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Anyone recognize this hood?????

> I know somebody said it was a Formula Friedturd hood,

Yup, '77-'81 vintage or thereabouts, as someone else said. The
large rectangular cutouts held fake, pot-metal hood scoops. If
you want to squint a little, you can see one attached to a car at
http://www.n-link.com/~kaja/firebirds.html

Now let's get back to Olds, shall we?  :-)

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 15:25:48 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Oil drain plug HELP?

That sounds great BUT:

Where can you get a rubber drain plug like that ???????????

I tried AutoZone, HiLo, Carquest... but none of them has what you are
talking about. A friend of mine used exactly what you did years ago but
also has no idea where to get them!

Do you still use them and have them in stock (can you send me one if I mail
you a check?)
Thanks, George

- -----

> If you can't get a self tapping one to work, I have used a rubber drain plug
> on customers cars that comes with an installation tool. You put the plug on
> the tool which stretches it way out straight. Insert it into the hole and
> twist and pull the plug out. Sounds hokey, but I've never seen one fail.
> I've probably put 10 of them in 10 cars in ten years. As far as I know, none
> have failed (or even leaked).

- ------

George:
> >the oil drain plug thread on my L*nc*ln is totally messed up (not by me,
> >by the former owner who must have brought it to a bad lube place.)
> >I definetly need to do the oil change soon but don't want to take out the
> >oil pan to weld on a nut. (That is the only idea I have so far...)
> >The bolt plug is already one of those thread self cutting things you can
> >get here in the part stores... so that won't work anymore.
> >
> >Does anyone know a place (catalog) where you can order plugs with a
> >rubber gasket which swells up when you tighten the screw? I know, this is
> >not a good solution for an Olds but for an old 460 to pull an Olds it is
> >definetly enough...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 15:38:51 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: I give up.

I do believe the word "fire" was alluded to.  (cringe)  The dreaded F word.  My
highest condolences.
- ----------

This brings to mind something I mentioned to the owner of a nice '65 pickup 
over
the weekend. Get rid of those plastic see through fuel filters!! It will split
and dump fuel. Guess what happens then?

Use a metal or glass cased filter body instead.
- --
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 15:35:00 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: How do I remove windshield from 74 98

>
>To reinstall the glass once you've repaired any rust, remove any residual
>sealer from the glass and the frame.  Purchase a windshield sealing tape
>kit from your friendly local auto paint store (this is made by 3M and
>basically is a roll of black sealing tape).  Clean the sealing surfaces
>thoroughly with a degreaser (I use Prep Sol to ensure no residual grease
>remains).  Run the tape around the inside perimeter of the glass, lightly
>pressing it in place.  Cut a clean butt seam in the tape, preferably at the
>bottom center of the windshield.  Again with the help of a friend, lift the
>windshield into place, taking care to center it in the opening (you won't
>be able to move it once it's in place.  Press firmly around the perimeter
>to seal the tape to the frame, then reinstall the trim.

Joe or anyone else,

Several years back I watched the guy install a new windshield in my
mustang and before putting down the sealing tape he got out a can of
'primer'.  Not sure what it was called but it was a black sticky
substance kinda like a liquid butyl tape and he dabbed it all around the
inside windshield frame before putting the roll of sealer on and then
the windshield.  I'm just wondering if this has to be done and if so
what this 'primer' is called, where to get it or if it's a step that can
be skipped and one would just thoroughly clean the frame and then put
the windshield sealing tape in.  Also, sometimes there are little rubber
blocks that go on the bottom of the windsheild frame to help 'position'
the windshield, or backglass if doing the rear window, properly in the
frame and probably also to prevent the glass from riding on the lower
metal channel of the frame.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 16:26:13 -0400
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <tjacquillard@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: CARB. VACUUM?

Robert Barry wrote:
>
> >I need help with the vaccuum lines. Can someone send me a diagram
> >please? I have just installed a Q-jet on my 68 Toro 455. The Carb. is
> >#17056240. I need to know where to hook-up the vaccuum lines to the
> >carb. I know this has been covered, but now I need it. Please send me
> >anything you have to my e-mail address. (tjacquillard@clds.net)
> >thanx, T.J.
>
> As you probably know by now, that's not the original carb for that car
> (original would be a #7028252). The #17056240 is the carb used on the
> full-size 49-state Buick 455 in 1976, and will have more hose connections
> (specifically for the vapor canister) than the original carb. It will have a
> ported vacuum port on the front, up and to the driver's side, which can be
> run to the distributor advance. The large tube from the top casting is the
> bowl vent line to the charcol canister, and should not be plugged up. You
> can just cap whatever else you don't need.
yes, I did know what it was off of, but I appreciate the other info. I
would have capped off the breather to the canister.
thanx, T.J.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 13:47:14 -0700
From: "David Seiver - Account Executive" <DavidS@AnaServe.com>
Subject: RE: POSI NEEDED

It is a 67 f85 and I dont know if it is a o or c---it came with the car and
I believe it is original.

David Seiver
Account Representative
AnaServe, Inc. - The Future of Web Hosting
Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283
Fax: 714.250.7265
e-mail: davids@anaserve.com
Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of
> Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
> Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 1998 1:05 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: POSI NEEDED
>
>
> I also need a posi and gears  (or whatever) for my 12 bolt original rear
> end.
> Any leads?
>
> David Seiver
> _________________
>
> Help us out, David.  What year and model of car, and is it a Type
> O or Type
> C 12 bolt?
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 70 W-03
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 17:01:16 EDT
From: <JJP442@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  G-body Gauges! Again!

There is a hole with a rubber grommet above the steering column that serves as
a routing point for the vacumm line for the cruise control and electric
accesories.
I've carefully drilled thru the rubber grommet and next to it depending on
what I'm trying to route. Hope this helps.
Good luck,
JJP442@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 17:18:26 EDT
From: <JJP442@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  LIST...

Been seen 8/4/98

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 14:04:11 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: POSI NEEDED

give up I asked this a week and a half ago and got no response
once again thats a posi unit for a type "O" differential need it to accept 4
serries gears thanx
- -----Original Message-----
From: David Seiver - Account Executive <DavidS@AnaServe.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, August 04, 1998 1:49 PM
Subject: RE: POSI NEEDED


>It is a 67 f85 and I dont know if it is a o or c---it came with the car and
>I believe it is original.
>
>David Seiver
>Account Representative
>AnaServe, Inc. - The Future of Web Hosting
>Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283
>Fax: 714.250.7265
>e-mail: davids@anaserve.com
>Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of
>> Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 1998 1:05 PM
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: POSI NEEDED
>>
>>
>> I also need a posi and gears  (or whatever) for my 12 bolt original rear
>> end.
>> Any leads?
>>
>> David Seiver
>> _________________
>>
>> Help us out, David.  What year and model of car, and is it a Type
>> O or Type
>> C 12 bolt?
>>
>> Joe Padavano
>> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>>
>> 66 442
>> 68 W-30
>> 69 H/O
>> 70 W-03
>>
>>
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 14:12:03 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!

this is called a bubble flare use extensively on later models try snap-on
they sell a tool just for this...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, August 04, 1998 12:03 PM
Subject: RE: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!


>Right about an inch or so from the end of the hardline, there is usually
>a sort of balloon bulge against which the
>clamp is supposed to seal. May not be necessary, but is desirable for
>safety.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: KarlAune@aol.com [mailto:KarlAune@aol.com]
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 1998 11:31 AM
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 98-08-04 13:57:00 EDT, you write:
>>
>> << . If you can sort a way to put a bulge in it, like the
>> factory did, do it.
>> >>
>>
>> Uh.
>>
>> Hmmmm.
>>
>> Karl not seen bulge.
>>
>> Er, ... in fuel line, I mean.
>>
>> What CF mean?
>>
>>
>> << SOM_______  >>
>>
>> Drat!
>> Tried to send with SOM underlined.
>> Trailing line less effective!
>>
>> <sigh>
>>
>> KA
>> &SOM_________
>>
>> ('least I am not making jackstands!)
>>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 17:31:07 -0400
From: "Gib Loudon" <cutlass@mill.tds.net>
Subject: Re: B-body discs

Hey...notice the NovaMark thing?  That is Mark Erthum from our very own
list.  This guy is a really good source.  He's getting me some parts for my
car.  If you call him, call before 2:00pm Arizona time.  Thought I'd let you
guys know.

Gib.

For whoever was looking for discs for a 60s B-body, I found this on the web.
Usual disclaimers...

Date of Posting: 7-18-98
Email Address: Novamark@webtv.net
Description: 1965-70 Olds 98/88 12 bolt posi complete from drum to drum with
E
brake cables ready to bolt in.2.70 gears. $175. 1967-70 88/98 disc brake
conversion hardware includes spindles,caliper brackets,backing plates, 2
pc.rotors,speedo cable. $200. Prices do not include shipping. Call mark at
602-867-9224 for more info.
City: Phx.
State: Arizona

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 16:39:04 -0500 (CDT)
From: Stephen Wayne Pollman <sspol@ksu.edu>
Subject: 1960 88 info

Hi all!  My brother just got a '60 Dynamic 88 that he wants to restore.
Where can I get some info online or a book to get him started?

Thanks in advance

Steve Pollmann
sspol@ksu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 14:41:35 PDT
From: "flynt myrick" <f_myrick@hotmail.com>
Subject: Lifespan of Tires

List members,
  What is the lifespan of tires in years?  My 1969 442 tires were made
the 48 week of 1982.  They only have about 2,000-3,000 miles of use.  I
noticed that they are cracking on the inside of the tire.  The outside
appear fine.  Does this cracking mean it is time to replace the tires?
How can I tell if the tires are too old as to be unsafe?
  The car is driven less than 300 miles per year.  I do not want to put
a new set of tires on a car that is driven so little.   Any suggestions?

Flynt Myrick
f_myrick@hotmail.com
http://www.hotmail.com


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 16:44:14 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: Lifespan of Tires

more burnouts...
jk
Cracking will cause the sidewall to weaking, actually cracking is the result
of weakening.
solution:

{
do big burnouts
buy new tires
repeat
}
>>>Brett

- -----Original Message-----
From: flynt myrick <f_myrick@hotmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, August 04, 1998 4:37 PM
Subject: Lifespan of Tires


>List members,
>  What is the lifespan of tires in years?  My 1969 442 tires were made
>the 48 week of 1982.  They only have about 2,000-3,000 miles of use.  I
>noticed that they are cracking on the inside of the tire.  The outside
>appear fine.  Does this cracking mean it is time to replace the tires?
>How can I tell if the tires are too old as to be unsafe?
>  The car is driven less than 300 miles per year.  I do not want to put
>a new set of tires on a car that is driven so little.   Any suggestions?
>
>Flynt Myrick
>f_myrick@hotmail.com
>http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 14:49:55 PDT
From: "flynt myrick" <f_myrick@hotmail.com>
Subject: Steering Wheel

List members,
  The sport steering wheel on my 1969 442 has a "sap" coming out of the
plastic.  It is tacky and gets my clothes and hands dirty.  Do any of
you have  ideas on how to stop this sap?  This is also happening to my
1978 Caprice steering wheel.  Any ideas?

Flynt Myrick
f_myrick@hotmail.com
http://www.hotmail.com


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 17:51:03 EDT
From: <Cnvrt67@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Lifespan of Tires

put new tires on it and drive the car more. no offence intended.

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 17:56:34 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Electronic Circuit Design Needed

Andy,

Thanks for the info - my 80 Starfire has one of those switches for the fuel
pump on it.  But they didn't come with a real oil pressure gauge, so I custom
installed an AutoMeter electric one in the dash where the non-functioning
clock used to be, almost looks stock and works well.  But to do that it took
using a piece of braided hose and a "T" fitting so I could retain the fuel
pump switch/warning light function.

Thanks again,

Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 16:04:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: John <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel

- ---flynt myrick <f_myrick@hotmail.com> wrote:

>   The sport steering wheel on my 1969 442 has a "sap" coming out of
the
> plastic.  It is tacky and gets my clothes and hands dirty.  Do any of
> you have  ideas on how to stop this sap?

- --Found a similar problem on several "junkyard" wheels, my only guess
is ...HEAT, but not a clue how to stop it.
      John
==
mailto:super442@yahoo.com           ICQ # 15391466
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73--http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof--307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 16:11:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: John <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: How do I remove windshield from 74 98

- ---"Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com> wrote:

> Several years back I watched the guy install a new windshield  and
before putting down the sealing tape he got out a can of
> 'primer'.  Not sure what it was called but it was a black sticky
> substance kinda like a liquid butyl tape and he dabbed it all around
the
> inside windshield frame before putting the roll of sealer on and then
> the windshield.

- --Well its exactly that,Butyl primer,you can get it at the paint shop
where you get the seal,it's not a have to thing,but it IS cheap
insurance.I always use it when replacing a windshield.

John
==
mailto:super442@yahoo.com           ICQ # 15391466
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73--http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof--307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 19:27:45 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Lifespan of Tires

In a message dated 98-08-04 17:43:16 EDT, you write:

<< List members,
   What is the lifespan of tires in years?  My 1969 442 tires were made
 the 48 week of 1982.  They only have about 2,000-3,000 miles of use.  I
 noticed that they are cracking on the inside of the tire.  The outside
 appear fine.  Does this cracking mean it is time to replace the tires?
 How can I tell if the tires are too old as to be unsafe?
   The car is driven less than 300 miles per year.  I do not want to put
 a new set of tires on a car that is driven so little.   Any suggestions?

 Flynt Myrick >>


Flynt, depending on how DEEP the cracks are, I wouldn't worry about it. Look
closely to any tire that's on a vehicle that isn't put in a garage, and not
driven every day. They all have cracks, just to different degrees. If they are
deeply cracked, yes, replace them. No one wants a tire to come apart while
they are driving! A good preventive measure for most types of rubber (gaskets,
etc.) is to go buy silicone spray at an auto parts store. It works good on
this kind of stuff, and supposedly keeps the rubber soft. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 19:11:32 -0700
From: JFOWLER@capecod.net
Subject: 4-SALE

69 442 Conv for sale.  The car is in nice shape and 69000 original
miles.  It dosen't have many options but is #'s matching.  I've owned
the car  for only a year and have replaced the coil springs, shocks,
brakes, carb.,tires, A-arm bushings, exhaust, and added a original
radio.  It needs a few misc. parts and a conv. top.  It's located in
Hyannis Mass.  I'm asking $5000.00
E-MAIL jfowler@capecod.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 20:20:12 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Neat road rage site

If you are finding yourself more and more succeptable to the effects
of irate drivers on todays highways, check this site and vent your
frustrations here before acting on your impulses while still on the
highway..!! Olds relation...well read a few and it's obvious...!! You
might recognize yourself or someone you know..!!
Hope you enjoy..!!

            Go to..................

 http://wasteland.bevc.blacksburg.va.us/barjd


Mike......................

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 20:31:59 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: 68 Ign.

  Does anyone have an e-mail address for John Green who lives in Canada?  I
would like to contact him.  Peter

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 17:28:21 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel

the "SAP" is the resin in the vinyl it seeps to the surface after long hours
in the sun as a sort of self preservation this resin offers limited
protection from the sun but will allow the surface to deteriorate later
to remove it from the surface use a cloth preferably lint free and oderless
mineral spirits from the local hardware store then apply a generous helping
of armorall (dont forget to wipe of the residue from the armorall) and try
to cover the wheel with a towel or something when it is exposed to the sun
light...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: John <super442@yahoo.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, August 04, 1998 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel


>
>
>
>
>
>---flynt myrick <f_myrick@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>   The sport steering wheel on my 1969 442 has a "sap" coming out of
>the
>> plastic.  It is tacky and gets my clothes and hands dirty.  Do any of
>> you have  ideas on how to stop this sap?
>
>--Found a similar problem on several "junkyard" wheels, my only guess
>is ...HEAT, but not a clue how to stop it.
>      John
>==
>mailto:super442@yahoo.com           ICQ # 15391466
>1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307
H.O./3.73--http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
>1984 Cutlass-Moonroof--307
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
>1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________
>DO YOU YAHOO!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 21:23:52 -0400
From: Frederick Nissen <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Heater hose length and routing

A late '70s TSB indicates that the extra lenght and apparently odd
routing of the heater hose from the water pump to the heater core on
Olds V8 equipped cars was to prevent transmission of water pump noise to
the passenger compartment.  It went on to state that the hose could be
shortened without any operational problems, but that customers may
notice the increased noise.

Fred Nissen
OCA 16246
1969 98 Convertible (455 / TH 400)
1977 Delta 88 Sedan (403 / TH 350)
1977 98 Regency Coupe (403 / TH 400)
1978 Delta 88 Royale Coupe (350 / TH 350)
1979 98 LS Coupe (403 / TH 400)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 18:26:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: John <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Drivin' the 85 KICKS A$$!:)

- --Hi everyone,
          Sorry for this probable waste of bandwidth, but I got to
drive the 85 tonight, granted only around in the yard, but it's been
about 6 mos. DAMN it felt good,make that GREAT!!!!!!!
I return you now to your own reality:)  ~I'm going back to the garage
to play some more.
                          John



==
mailto:super442@yahoo.com           ICQ # 15391466
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73--http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof--307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 21:40:18 -0400
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: Re: 68 Ign.

Peter: the last time I talked to John....about a year ago... I tried to
interest him in the net.  He didn't have an address at that time and
didn't appear interested.....but things do cahnge.  I'd be interested if
John has a e mail address as well.  Wayne Schwartz

Peter Berusch wrote:
>
>   Does anyone have an e-mail address for John Green who lives in Canada?  I
> would like to contact him.  Peter

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 22:32:27 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 69 442 Conv for sale

Not on the list, respond to JFOWLER@capecod.net if interested.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	JFOWLER@capecod.net
Subject: 4-SALE

69 442 Conv for sale.  The car is in nice shape and 69000 original
miles.  It dosen't have many options but is #'s matching.  I've owned
the car  for only a year and have replaced the coil springs, shocks,
brakes, carb.,tires, A-arm bushings, exhaust, and added a original
radio.  It needs a few misc. parts and a conv. top.  It's located in
Hyannis Mass.  I'm asking $5000.00
E-MAIL jfowler@capecod.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 21:48:25 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <jlabay@ee.net>
Subject: Re: Heater hose length and routing

Wow, that might explain the slight buzzing noise that is coming from around the
firewall area since I shortened the heater hose.  I hooked up another correct
length hose and that buzz went away, along with the car running back to normal
temps....weird :-/

Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500     88 Trans Am GTA
75 Hurst/Olds W-25    80 Olds 442 W-30
72 Cutlass Supreme Drag Car
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/7565


>A late '70s TSB indicates that the extra lenght and apparently odd
>routing of the heater hose from the water pump to the heater core on
>Olds V8 equipped cars was to prevent transmission of water pump noise to
>the passenger compartment

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 21:52:04 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <jlabay@ee.net>
Subject: EGR blockoff

Anyone ever blockoff the EGR valve with a plate on a newer Olds? I want to
remove the EGR valve on my 80 Olds 350 as part of my cleaning up the engine 
area
to see my chrome valve covers project :-) Will blocking it off hurt performance
or cause any hesitations? Thanks

Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500     88 Trans Am GTA
75 Hurst/Olds W-25    80 Olds 442 W-30
72 Cutlass Supreme Drag Car
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/7565

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 21:56:15 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <jlabay@ee.net>
Subject: G-body custom hood insulation

Anyone know of a company that makes custom hood insulation for 78-80 G-bodies? 
I
see quite a few GN's with custom leather insulation tht has the Buick Turbo
logo.  I would love to find something like that with a 442 or W-30 logo in it.

Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500     88 Trans Am GTA
75 Hurst/Olds W-25    80 Olds 442 W-30
72 Cutlass Supreme Drag Car
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/7565

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 20:04:13 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Larry's F/S 81 CSB???

> FS '81 Cutlass Supreme Brougham. Great project car. 1K OBO. E-mail direct
> for info.

Oh no!  Say it ain't so, Larry!  I'm assuming it's cuz ya found a better one?
(or did that wagon turn into a real cool cruiser?)  :)

Good Luck!
- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 18:49:46 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: EGR blockoff

the EGR is there to allow the engine to run on lower octane fuel and to
reduce emission levels of Oxides of Nitrogen (unburned fuel) to block it off
just do it and retard the timing enough to eliminate pinging...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jason P. Labay <jlabay@ee.net>
To: Oldsmobile Mailing List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, August 04, 1998 6:49 PM
Subject: EGR blockoff


>Anyone ever blockoff the EGR valve with a plate on a newer Olds? I want to
remove the EGR valve on my 80 Olds 350 as
>part of my cleaning up the engine area to see my chrome valve covers
project :-) Will blocking it off hurt performance
>or cause any hesitations? Thanks
>
>Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH
>98 Silverado C2500     88 Trans Am GTA
>75 Hurst/Olds W-25    80 Olds 442 W-30
>72 Cutlass Supreme Drag Car
>www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/7565
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 19:17:38 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: EGR blockoff

At 09:52 PM 8/4/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Anyone ever blockoff the EGR valve with a plate on a newer Olds? I want to
remove the EGR valve on my 80 Olds 350 as

While it doesn't look that good  I just cut a piece of  1/8" thick
 steel and drilled 2 holes in it.
It bolted right on and ran fine (this was on a '78 engine).

if you used a piece if Stainless or aluminum and polished it, it would look
nice.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 23:29:01 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: G-body alloy wheels FS

Not on the list, respond to delect@chicagonet.net if interested.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Joe Serritella" <delect@chicagonet.net>

I have a rare set of cast aluminum rally sport wheels for a Cutlass for =
sale.
They fit 15" wheels and they can go on any Cutlass 1978-1986. They are =
all aluminum, no paint, and they have the center cap with the rocket =
emblem. They fit Hurst Olds and 442, too. I am asking only $225.00. I =
would like to see an oldsmobile enthusiast get these. I loved my Cutlass =
(1981) and I was sorry when the car was in an accident and had to be =
junked. Naturally I kept everything I could of the car especially the =
wheels! You can E-mail me at DELECT@CHICAGONET.NET  or call me at =
630-852-9936 (leave Message).
Thank you, Dianna G.=20

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BDBF7D.9B337560
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have a rare set of cast aluminum =
rally sport=20
wheels for a Cutlass for sale.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>They fit 15&quot; wheels and they =
can go on any=20
Cutlass 1978-1986. They are all aluminum, no paint, and they have the =
center cap=20
with the rocket emblem. They fit Hurst Olds and 442, too. I am asking =
only=20
$225.00. I would like to see an oldsmobile enthusiast get these. I loved =
my=20
Cutlass (1981) and I was sorry when the car was in an accident and had =
to be=20
junked. Naturally I kept everything I could of the car especially the =
wheels!=20
You can E-mail me at <A=20
href=3D"mailto:DELECT@CHICAGONET.NET">DELECT@CHICAGONET.NET</A>&nbsp; or =
call me=20
at 630-852-9936 (leave Message).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thank you, Dianna=20
G.&nbsp;</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BDBF7D.9B337560--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 22:34:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: Christopher Casteel <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: 69 442 Conv for sale

Just when is one of these going to come along in Middle Tennessee?!?

>69 442 Conv for sale.  The car is in nice shape and 69000 original
>miles.  It dosen't have many options but is #'s matching.  I've owned
>the car  for only a year and have replaced the coil springs, shocks,
>brakes, carb.,tires, A-arm bushings, exhaust, and added a original
>radio.  It needs a few misc. parts and a conv. top.  It's located in
>Hyannis Mass.  I'm asking $5000.00

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 19:42:36 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: SPRINGS 67 f85 425bb

At 10:59 AM 8/4/98 -0700, you wrote:
>I got $100 for a set (4) of stiff springs for my 67 f85 w/a 425bb. I need
>front and rear and will wire the money but the springs must be GOOD!
>Please help!
>
Not to rain on your parade, but $100 probably isn't going to do it .
After alot of searching I found a pair of front springs for a small block for
$120, and that was a good price.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 19:58:06 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Cool Can

At 09:28 AM 8/4/98 -0400, you wrote:
>In a message dated 8/3/98, 3:53:18 PM, oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca writes:
>
<<And I mean especially changing your main jets!>>
>Jets??? what are they?? Do you people still use jets :)
>
Yup still have jets :)
and POINTS even. remember points?
and drum brakes even.

and i'm thinking about oil lamps for headlights,  Still don't trust the
electrical thingy's :)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 20:08:56 PDT
From: "Justin Brickey" <cutlass260@hotmail.com>
Subject: 455 in a 79 Cutlass?

I have a '79 cutlass with the weak 260 in it. I would like to drop a 455
that I have access to into it. My primary concern is how to go about it.
Does anyone know what kind of modifications I would have to make if I
were to do this? I have heard that it would cause my turning  radius to
be cut wide a little bit, is this true?

Just wondering,
                Justin

                              brickey@mindspring.com

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 20:16:40 PDT
From: "Justin Brickey" <cutlass260@hotmail.com>
Subject: Turn signal problems.

I just replaced the front fender and nose clip on my '79 cutlass.  I
think I hooked all the grounds to the headlights and turn signals up.
All that I could see anyway.  My right turn signal works fine, but my
left turn signal doesn't.
   My left turn signal blinks slowly, but does blink when the headlights
are off.  The moment I cut myheadlights on, the interior left turn
signal indicator turns on , and doesn't blink, but my left turn signals
on the outside don't do anything. No light at all from my turn signal or
marker lights on that side. Does anyone have an idea as to what this
problem is?

Justin

brickey@mindspring.com


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 20:19:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: 87 Cutlass Parts

     Anybody need a front clip and/or doors from a 1987 Cutlass
Supreme 2 door? The parts do have the wide stainless trim along the
bottom. The doors have power windows.
     I do not own these parts...USUAL DISCLAIMERS APPLY...someone I
know has them here in Southern MD...about 60 miles south of
Washington, DC. He won't ship...come down and get 'em....$500 for
everything. Email me privately if interested.

==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our Oldsmobiles and more at
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 20:12:31 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: 455 in a 79 Cutlass?

really is a piece of cake the original monts will work fine thhe brackets
also you might want to put in a beefier trans like a th 400 or the like
 and better exhaust the cat may have to be replaced with the late corvette
or 'stang type two of em one for each side x member may also have to be
reworked to accept dual exhaust the ign and accessory drive stuff should
work fine as well I personally dont see any real problems if you have any
specific Questions just ask...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Justin Brickey <cutlass260@hotmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, August 04, 1998 8:10 PM
Subject: 455 in a 79 Cutlass?


>I have a '79 cutlass with the weak 260 in it. I would like to drop a 455
>that I have access to into it. My primary concern is how to go about it.
>Does anyone know what kind of modifications I would have to make if I
>were to do this? I have heard that it would cause my turning  radius to
>be cut wide a little bit, is this true?
>
>Just wondering,
>                Justin
>
>                              brickey@mindspring.com
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 21:53:35 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Turn signal problems.

Justin Brickey wrote:
>  No light at all from my turn signal or
> marker lights on that side. Does

Sounds like likely burned out light bulb(s) somewhere.  Turn on the park lights
~and~ hazzard lights, and walk around the car.  Compare left and right sides,
front and back, etc.  Both front bumper lights should be on constant, and
blinking brighter, same with taillights, which likely have  two bulbs per 
light,
both dual/elements.  I ~think~ the 78-80 have two bulbs still, anyway.  You
should see the side marker lights either on steady or blinking (depending on
front or back)  They ~should~ light, though.  You can learn alot about your car
just by walking around it occasionally this way.

Sidenote, during college, in electrical class, we were handed a schematic for a
89 (?) C/K pickup, and given the complaint that the turn signals blink at 
double
speed.  The idea was to follow the schematic and trace down the problem
scientifically.  Not me.  Did the bulb check described above, and had it 
~fixed~
in less than five minutes.  Instructor was kinda pi**ed, but everyone else 
spent
an hour trying to philosophize things...  Heh heh!

Also note, some import and newer cars use seperate bulbs/circuits for the
hazzard flashers, so this test is innacurate on 'em.  But, since this ~is~ an
Olds list, and we don't ~care~ about that japcrap...  It'll work on prolly work
on 95% of the cars represented on this list.

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 21:59:31 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: SPRINGS 67 f85 425bb

> Not to rain on your parade, but $100 probably isn't going to do it .
> After alot of searching I found a pair of front springs for a small

Going back to the notion that it's not what you know, it's ~who~ you know, try
this.  Go to a parts house that can you have stock in (meaning you personally
pay their salaries with the bulk of purchases you make there, and can often get
preferred customer discounts)  Ask them to ring it up as a cash sale billed to 
a
large tire retailer in town, like Firestone, etc.  Many of the larger
suspension/tire shops enjoy a stocking dealer discount, which is often near, if
not ~below~ the parts house cost.  I know a certain individual who's saved 
~BIG~
$$$ that way on a few occasions...  Not to mention any names or magnetic
descriptions...

The other problem would be finding a dealer who stocks springs for a 67...  Or
can even ~get~ 'em.   Best of luck!!!!


- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 23:07:05 -0500
From: senator@chorus.net (Robert F. Newbegin Jr.)
Subject: vandalism prevention

Vandalizing someone's car is a really cowardly way of not confronting
someone.  I know this reply is realllllllly late, but I'm in digest mode
and am a few days behind.  Aside from getting a baseball bat and
'discussing' the problem with the neighbor, you might want to get motion
sensors for your house or a car alarm.  Most of my friends have car alarms,
I have a bat *and* a motion sensor on my house.
I would recommend (well, if you're made of money, unlike me) getting an
alarm that has what's called "proximity sensors" that set off the alarm
when someone is *near* your vehicle.  Of course, this can be a nuisance.
Some alarms come with a special pager that you carry with you, this is a
feature that I would like.  Consider setting up a hidden video camera
hooked up to a motion sensor (if you're feeling creative).
Good luck in prosecuting the sob.

Bob      '78 CS

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 22:08:07 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: 455 in a 79 Cutlass?

Justin Brickey wrote:
> I have a '79 cutlass with the weak 260 in it. I would like to drop a 455

Done this myself in the 81.  Same basic car.  Turning radius is only affected 
if
you put the custom Hooker headers on it.  Everything will bolt right up, with
exceptions being exhaust and A/C.  If the car is a ~non~ A/C car, the engine
won't fit, I hear.  The heater case is in the most bass-ackwards spot
imaginable.  Anyway, the exhaust manifolds are farther apart, and will require
exhaust mods.  The old style A6 compressor will bolt in perfectly, but requires
swapping compressors, and recharging A/C system ($$$)  The R4 mounts will bolt
to the head just fine, but will no longer reach the water pump bolt to secure
that end.  Stock motor mounts are OK.  Rear end will be wanting a change, soon.
You'll want to get a new radiator, 3 row is fine, 4 is better, but much harder
to find I hear.  Stock 2 row is begging for problems, ~especially~ if you'll be
running the A/C.  Then I'd recommend finding a 4 row, or having custom made.  I
orderred a new 3 row for mine, $$$ but not ~too~ bad.  He told me I didn't want
to know what a 4 row would cost.

Crossmember can be cut or modified for the dual exhaust.  Mine went down the
pass side (both pipes) and crossed back behind the tranny.  The guy down here
(anally retentive) refused to keep that modification, and ran the pipe ~under~
the crossmember...  Good thing I don't go offroad with it!  A 68-72 crossmember
can be stitched in there, and gives you stock-looking dual humps.  So I 
hear...

Other questions, feel free.

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 23:37:44 -0500
From: senator@chorus.net (Robert F. Newbegin Jr.)
Subject: Help with rear diff, crsovr

Thanks to everyone for replying to my posts about the rear diff. gearing
and the crossover.  (well, I'm kinda dissapointed in myself for not
figuring out that the GEAR RATIOS could be determined by looking at the
GEARS themselves.  Must be getting late.)
However, no one seems to want my SSIII wheels?  Perhaps they aren't worth
the cost of shipping and should go to the local dump.
Anyhoo,

Bob        '78 CS

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 01:44:26 EDT
From: <JJP442@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  87 Cutlass Parts

I would like to know more about those 87 cutlass parts you mentioned,
condition, color etc. I'm in NY and willing to travel. You can e-mail me
direct.
JJP442@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 01:04:31 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: 69 442 Conv for sale

Brother, just don't even start.

At 10:34 PM 8/4/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Just when is one of these going to come along in Middle Tennessee?!?
>
>>69 442 Conv for sale.  The car is in nice shape and 69000
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons				Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 
3585737
 Solutions Provider		b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 Computer Approach		http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Work: 713-627-8588
								Home :	
(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 MIS Major - UT Austin				(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
 5606 Grape				Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 Houston, TX 77096-1114			(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 02:34:55 EDT
From: <BrKLynS@aol.com>
Subject: Looking for a 64 cutlass

im looking for a cheap 64 cutlass that i could restore.thanks 		

                            joe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 02:24:26 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: How much $$$ 4 Ram-Air Setup

How much is a Ram-Air setup from a 72 Olds worth? It includes the base and
the plastic flapper door assembly also. All is in great condition and
original.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 07:06:30 EDT
From: <KWhite5590@aol.com>
Subject: information

Looking for info on a 85/86 Cutlass Supreme dubbed FE3X.there was an article
in HOT ROD magazine about this car and two others(a Calais,and an Omega)in
1986(?).The cars were tuner type Hi-po concepts.Any information above and
beyond the magazine coverage would be greatly appreciated.
I can be reached at KWhite5590@aol.com
Thank you.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 19:15:53 +0800 (WST)
From: rpecheva@cygnus.uwa.edu.au (Rosalie Pech Eva)
Subject: More F28 Olds Queries

Thanks everyone who responded to my initial questions!

I have more information about my car:

1. Engine # III 775.

2. Right hand drive.

3. Open four-door with canvas hood and side curtains.

4. Wooden spoke wheels with spare rear-mounted above fuel tank.

There is no suffix after F-28 on compliance plate; could this mean it is an
Australian made body?

I will follow up Hemmings Motor News, please list book titles relating to
this vehicle referred to in previous postings.

Thanks again,

Rosalie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 06:53:46 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: MSD'S IGNITION MODULE?

Has anyone out there in Oldsmobile land tried to use MSD's ignition module?
You know the one that in the distributor. I am thinking about replacing the
one in my distributor and was wondering was it worth it.
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
13 Wins 10 Losses
======================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 08:34:28 -0400
From: "George & Joan C. Lesperance" <gal1@MNSi.Net>
Subject: Re: LIST...

Hi David - we can read your posting just fine. Joan

David Seiver - Account Executive wrote:

> Can ANYONE see my postings? Someone please let me know!
> thank you,
>
> David Seiver
> Account Representative
> AnaServe, Inc. - The Future of Web Hosting
> Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283
> Fax: 714.250.7265
> e-mail: davids@anaserve.com
> Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 09:38:38 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Looking for...

Hi,

I'm looking for a Heater/AC control assembly (that fits on the dash) for my
'72 Cutlass.

From what I can tell from the illustrated parts manual a '71 and '72 unit
are the same.

I really only need the part the goes in the dash (i.e. the part that all
the controls attach to) if that's what you got for some reason.  Otherwise
I'm assuming to buy the whole unit.

If you got one of these please drop me a private e-mail and include the
price your asking.

Thanks,

(and don't ask what happened to my other one... it was a really dumb move
on my part and I'm trying to pretend I'm not capable of being that clumsy)

jp

Jonathan Parke
mailto:jonparke@together.net
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1406
*********************************
