Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1461


oldsmobile-digest     Tuesday, September 1 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1461



RE: internet provider, non-Olds
Re: new member
1966 Olds Cutlass 88 4-Door, 330 Eng, 67K miles
Re: internet provider, non-Olds
Re: Just the FAQs ma'am
torque strap
Re: My City
Re: internet provider, non-Olds
stud kit
Question about cars built in California
RE: Question about cars built in California
Re: Halogen bulbs
Re: Question about cars built in California
Re: Question about cars built in California
parts
Re: Question about cars built in California
fusicks got homepage!
Re: DON'T SPEED
Re: Question about cars built in California
Re: internet provider, non-Olds
Re: internet provider, non-Olds
Re: My City
Olds Parts 4sale
Re: Question about cars built in California
Re: fan clutch working?
Re: "Weird" Electrical problem
convertible top frames
Re: convertible top frames
rebuilt engine????
Re: internet provider, non-Olds
Re: Oil Pressure / Oil Cooler
Re: driveshaft yoke/tranny ?
Re: fan clutch working?
power brake unit
Re: My City
Re: fan clutch working?
Re: stud kit
Why bother? (was: RE: driveshaft yoke/tranny ?)
Re: power brake unit
Great Timing
Re: DON'T SPEED
Re: Great Timing
Re: My City
Re: rebuilt engine????
Un*ubscribe
Re: '87 442 - Low reading on voltmeter guage?
Re: Oldsmobile Books?
Re: fan clutch working?
Re: Carter AFB
Re: fan clutch working?
Fan Clutch Thread
Re: Question about cars built in California
The Parts Place,, good experience
Finding a body
Re: Finding a body
F/S: Cutlass/442 Parts

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 08:42:30 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: internet provider, non-Olds

I like at&t for it's national 7 international access. If you travel it
works.
cf

> -----Original Message-----
> From: RAY.COSTANZO@firstunion.com [mailto:RAY.COSTANZO@firstunion.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 1998 7:22 AM
> To: oldsmobilechebuctonsca
> Subject: internet provider, non-Olds
>
>
>
> TO: Softswitch.OAS
> CC:
> FROM: RAY.COSTANZO@TAOFUN1
> SUBJECT:  internet provider, non-Olds
>
>    I hate the email system here at work, so I've decided to go ahead a
>    nd get internet access and all at home.  i'D JUST LIKE TO HEAR SOME
>     OPINIONS ABOUT various providers and their prices and feautres.  T
>    hnks]
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 12:11:30 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: new member

In a message dated 98-09-01 02:30:08 EDT, you write:

<<  I just got a 71 442 convertible and it hasn't been a pleasant experience
so far. >>

<< [[ glorified ring job...]] >>

It is good to know that another classic car is now in the "right" hands.

Congratulations, and good luck!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 12:16:46 -0400
From: "Harold E. Bower, Jr." <HaroldBower@compuserve.com>
Subject: 1966 Olds Cutlass 88 4-Door, 330 Eng, 67K miles

Grandmother's estate (second owner).  Garage kept, some rust.  Any
suggestions as to what price we should expect for this car?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 09:19:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: internet provider, non-Olds

  DO NOT GET AOL!  I use AOL right now, and I am very unhappy with the
service.  It's $22 a month for unlimited time, but getting on is not
easy.  There are so many users, that getting an open line takes for
ever.  Sure you can get lucky and hit it on your first dial in once in
a while, but usually it takes 15-45 minutes to get on.  This probably
changes depending on what part of the country you are in.  I would
reccomend finding a small local provider.  Usually the prices are
better, logging on is quicker, and customer service is MUCH better, as
it's a small place, so they want to keep your buisiness.  Huge
providers like AOL are in it just for the money, they could care less
about customer satisfaction.

just my .02 cents

stefan




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 11:34:10 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Just the FAQs ma'am

The one question I do have is if I/we notice some incorrect data in the
FAQ or have some information to fill in missing parts of the FAQ or new
things for the FAQ, who should this be emailed to?  Dave Brown?  Just
curious as I will try an attempt at gathering some info about W-31s to
fill in some of the missing items in that section.

- ----------
You can send those corrections to my account below, or to the
oldsfaqcompiler@rocketmail.com account. I'm also looking to make the sections
more complete.

I appreciate corrections and they will be incorporated first. Heck, the last
thing needed on the Internet is incorrect information. Info to make things more
complete is added next, then I try to incorporate items for which there has 
been
a lot of discussion (some prioritization).

I have 1.5 MB of posts to incorporate (organized at least), which will probably
add almost 3/4 MB of useful (I hope) data to the FAQ. Some FAQ sections are
oversize right now, and need to be split up, and the new info will make it
worse, so some reorganizing in in the works as well. I also want to add a
counter.

Summer/Fall projects have priority right now, so when my fingers start freezing
outside (!), I'll go in and work on the FAQ! I have an ISP account outside 
work,
so updates will be more readily available. I plan on asking for a couple of
people to review different sections and the raw post extracts, if that's ok. A
couple a piece on each section should get the work done quickly.

Let me know what sections you would be interested in reviewing, etc. I'll keep
you on file, and mail out what I have now to be added, time permitting.
- --
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 12:30:14 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: torque strap

Mondello sells a torque cable kit. I'm making my own. I already have the
cable but where can you get the crimp type sleeves to make the loops?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 09:40:22 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: My City

Hi everybody,

Well my city is at it again.  Bugging me about Scarlet.  Had to show proof of
insurance and registration
to my local Police Relations yahoo.  Also had to drive Scarlet around the
neighborhood to show that it
can move under its own power.  I did find out which neighbor was causing the
problem.  Had to set
her straight.  I learned that she belongs to the city beautification
committee.  Wouldn't you know!

I am a bit peeved since I don't bug my neighbors even with all of their
violations.  I told this neighbor
that if she had a problem, she could have come to me instead of bringing city
officials in on this.  I guess
I'll have to call some violations on her.

What was even worse is that the yahoo has never owned a classic car and is
imposing his subjective
opinions about what my car is or is not.   I told him that beauty is in the eye
of the beholder.  I get
asked regularly if I am going to selling Scarlet and people drool over it, even
in its unrestored condition.
Talking with him was like talking to a wall.  I think this car may have been
purchased originally by
someone famous.  I am going to have to get records from DMV to prove this.

Oh well.  Off soapbox.

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 12:42:49 EDT
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: Re: internet provider, non-Olds

yes do not get aol the only thing good about is the instant messaging i use
aol and have a lot of friends that have it so the instant messaging is good
but you can also download the program from aol.com if you want it so you dont
need aol and when i first signed up they give ou that free month and they
charged me for the next month the first week i had aol and after about 2hrs
one the phone they gave me 1yr free for my troubles but they still send me
bills and nasty letters for the free month that i had snet.net is pretty good
my girlfriend uses the and she hasnt had any problems			
my 2 cents			Rich

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 11:42:05 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: stud kit

Hi Guys,

thanks for your help with the specs for the stud kit! Unfortunately I
did not know of the machining need of the caps... and I don't want to
wait and go thru that.

So this engine will go without the kit which does not really matter, it
will be a close to factory rebuilt anyway.
But I am pretty sure there will be an olds engine in my livingroom for
the kit in the future... and I'll keep the specs!

Thank you again,
George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 13:10:53 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Question about cars built in California

My 70 S was built in the Fremont, CA plant. Does this necessarily mean
that has crappy emissions stuff on it. I live in Michigan, and bought it
from a guy in the same town.
- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl)
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl)
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl)
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl)
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 11:33:09 -0600
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: RE: Question about cars built in California

> My 70 S was built in the Fremont, CA plant. Does this necessarily mean
> that has crappy emissions stuff on it. I live in Michigan, and bought it
> from a guy in the same town.

My '72 Supreme was built in Fremont, CA, but was originally sold here in St.
George, UT.  It never had any emissions stuff on it.  I would assume that
unless a car was intended for sale in CA, it wouldn't have had any emissions
stuff on it.

- -Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 13:36:45 -0400
From: tgstoner@umich.edu
Subject: Re: Halogen bulbs

On Mon, 31 Aug 1998 Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca> wrote:
> I was told that halogen bulbs are available in the US to replace
> filiment type tail light bulbs etc and that they are much brighter than
> the originals . .<snip>. . Are they for real.

****************
Wayne,

Yes, halogen bulbs to replace the common types of bulbs used in tail lights
are available.  So are halogen replacement backup light bulbs and brighter
halogen bulbs for composite headlights.  I've seen them advertised for sale
in AutoWeek and some of the other automotive publications.  Be advised
however, that halogen bulbs generally give off quite a bit more heat than
they bulbs they replace.  You might not think this was such a good idea, if
you install a set and that excess heat melts your light's lens or plastic
housing.  As with many other parts on your Oldsmobile, use caution when
making substitutions from the original equipment.  And let me know if yours
don't melt.  Then I might try a set too.

Tom Stoner
Oldsmobile Club of America #3943
Ann Arbor, MI
tgstoner@umich.edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 13:40:43 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Question about cars built in California

My 70 S was built in the Fremont, CA plant. Does this necessarily mean
that has crappy emissions stuff on it. I live in Michigan, and bought it
from a guy in the same town.
_____________

First of all, no, it doesn't necessarily mean it has (Calif-only) emissions
stuff on it, as the requirement was for the state the car was originally
_sold_ in, not necessarily the state it was manufactured in.  On the other
hand, if the car has Calif-unique equipment, that would prove it was an
original Calif car.

Having said that, the only equipment installed on Calif cars in 1970 that
was not installed on 49-state cars was the evaporative canister, and that
later became a mid-year addition on the 49-state cars anyway.  The evap
canister doesn't really effect performance, so even if the car has it, you
shouldn't notice the difference.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 10:44:12 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Question about cars built in California

B. Sanders wrote:

> My '72 Supreme was built in Fremont, CA, but was originally sold here in St.
> George, UT.  It never had any emissions stuff on it.  I would assume that
> unless a car was intended for sale in CA, it wouldn't have had any emissions
> stuff on it.

I think that is a fair assessment.

BTW.  If I wanted to remove the emissions stuff on my 68s then what will have
to
be modified?

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 13:45:06 EDT
From: EB105@aol.com
Subject: parts

looking for a panel-instrument cluster #25044988 for a 1983 olds 98, please
respond to my email at eb105@aol.com, thank you

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 13:47:16 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Question about cars built in California

BTW.  If I wanted to remove the emissions stuff on my 68s then what will
have
to be modified?

- --
Chris Sparks
____________

Chris, the only thing that should be on your 68s that I'd be concerned
about is the Calif-mandated add-on NOX device.  This is a unit designed to
disable your vacuum advance.  Since you don't have smog testing for your
cars anymore, simply remove it and reconnect the factory vacuum hoses.
Retain the device, however, as I suspect you still have the smog test
requirement when the car changes ownership, correct?

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 12:51:37 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: fusicks got homepage!

Hi Guys,

just ordered some stuff from Fusicks, their prices are sure very good!
(one can of engine spray paint is 5 bucks less than at year one!)
I was complaining to them that they should get themselves a homepage...
they have one... here is the address:

http://www.fusick.com/

It is still under construction. But I am sure the more hits they get the
quicker they'll build it complete...

So long, George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 00:52:44 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: DON'T SPEED

How old was your friend and what type of car did he flip over? Was this a
street race or were they just going too fast?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Johnson, Sam <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
> To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject: RE: DON'T SPEED
> Date: Tuesday, September 01, 1998 6:42 AM
>
> Sorry about your friend Ryan. The next time that I am racing I will take
> that extra time to be very careful.  Are prayers are with you.
> ======================
> Sam E. Johnson, JR.
> >  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
> >1971 Cutlass S 455
> >Westside! Chitown IL
> 17 Wins 13 Losses
> ======================
>
>
> 	-----Original Message-----
> 	From:	Ryan D [SMTP:riviera72sss@hotmail.com]
> 	Sent:	Monday, August 31, 1998 3:42 PM
> 	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> 	Subject:	DON'T SPEED
>
> 	hey guys ,i lost a frend sunday,he was racing around ,past a car and
>
> 	flipt his car 2 times,he was a good man that i hate to see go.racing
> can
> 	be fun ,heck speeding can be fun ,but geting killd is not ,so please
> be
> 	careful out thare ,i dont need to hear of one of you guy doing the
> same.
>
> 	thanks.
> 	       Ryan
>
> 	                      R.I.P
> 	                      Dave.
>
> 	______________________________________________________
> 	Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 10:59:44 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Question about cars built in California

Joe,

> Chris, the only thing that should be on your 68s that I'd be concerned
> about is the Calif-mandated add-on NOX device.  This is a unit designed to
> disable your vacuum advance.  Since you don't have smog testing for your

Ok.   Where is this thing at.

> cars anymore, simply remove it and reconnect the factory vacuum hoses.

Do I need some kind of intermediate coupling device?

> Retain the device, however, as I suspect you still have the smog test
> requirement when the car changes ownership, correct?

Good question.  I believe you don't need it.  When I got Saffron I didn't
haveto get it smog tested.  I really couldn't if I wanted to since it was
inoperable.


- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 11:09:20 -0700
From: "Dieter R Schafer" <dieter@3-cities.com>
Subject: Re: internet provider, non-Olds

I prefer to use the ICQ for all my Messaging, It seems to beat the Hell of
AOL!!
Dieter R. Schafer
77 Ods Toronado, Owner
ICQ # 5180073

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 11:13:02 -0700
From: "Dieter R Schafer" <dieter@3-cities.com>
Subject: Re: internet provider, non-Olds

A Local server is best !After 3 years on the net  and a user of ICQ! That is
my 2 cents worth!
Dieter R. Schafer
77 Ods Toronado, Owner
ICQ # 5180073 Or ICQ # 15373222

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 14:16:46 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: My City

Dont local goverment suck, there is always some asso minding your buisness and
not theres,I moved out off the north east to get away from the bull and it 
seems
that the south has to copy the norths bureaucracy .Man I feel for you.

Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada) wrote:

> Hi everybody,
>
> Well my city is at it again.  Bugging me about Scarlet.  Had to show proof of
> insurance and registration
> to my local Police Relations yahoo.  Also had to drive Scarlet around the
> neighborhood to show that it
> can move under its own power.  I did find out which neighbor was causing the
> problem.  Had to set
> her straight.  I learned that she belongs to the city beautification
> committee.  Wouldn't you know!
>
> I am a bit peeved since I don't bug my neighbors even with all of their
> violations.  I told this neighbor
> that if she had a problem, she could have come to me instead of bringing city
> officials in on this.  I guess
> I'll have to call some violations on her.
>
> What was even worse is that the yahoo has never owned a classic car and is
> imposing his subjective
> opinions about what my car is or is not.   I told him that beauty is in the
eye > of the beholder.  I get > asked regularly if I am going to selling 
Scarlet
and people drool over it, even > in its unrestored condition. > Talking with 
him
was like talking to a wall.  I think this car may have been > purchased
originally by > someone famous.  I am going to have to get records from DMV to
prove this. > > Oh well.  Off soapbox. > > -- > Chris Sparks > 68 442 SC -
Frosty > 68 442 HT - Scarlet > 68 442 HT - Saffron > 82 DRB    - Dr. "B" >
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 01:18:55 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Olds Parts 4sale

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BDD60F.A7835EE0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I have the following parts for sale, they must go cause I need the
room.....

Drum  to Drum rear-end from a 72 442 Convt  (2.73 Open) Worked perfectly
when pulled $50.00

Turbo -350 Transmission with stock torque conv't from 72 442 - Works but
was leaky   $50.00

Holley 3310 Carb. 750cfm-Vaccum secondaries-Manual Choke-Used only for 2
months(like new)  $120.00

Pair of #6 350 Cylinder Heads-Had 4angle valve job-New springs-Guide
Work-4000 miles on them-Have receipts for work totaling over $500.00
$200.00

A/C components from 72 442-Condensor,Evaporator,Compressor,etc..-Email with
needs

Hooker competition headers for Olds350(good condition)-State price

Holeshot 3000 torque conv't for Olds(used for 4 months) $305.00 new
$180.00

E-mail me privately.....
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BDD60F.A7835EE0
Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF"><p><font size=3D2 =
color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Arial"><b><i>I have the following parts for =
sale, they must go cause I need the room.....<br><br></i><font =
face=3D"Arial Rounded MT Bold">Drum &nbsp;to Drum rear-end from a 72 442 =
Convt &nbsp;(2.73 Open) Worked perfectly when pulled<font =
color=3D"#0000FF"> $50.00<br><br><font color=3D"#000000">Turbo -350 =
Transmission with stock torque conv't from 72 442 - Works but was leaky =
&nbsp;&nbsp;<font color=3D"#0000FF">$50.00<br><br><font =
color=3D"#000000">Holley 3310 Carb. 750cfm-Vaccum secondaries-Manual =
Choke-<font color=3D"#FF0000">Used only for 2 months(like new) =
&nbsp;<font color=3D"#0000FF">$120.00<br><br><font =
color=3D"#000000">Pair of #6 350 Cylinder Heads-Had 4angle valve job-New =
springs-Guide Work-4000 miles on them-Have receipts for work totaling =
over $500.00 &nbsp;&nbsp;<font color=3D"#0000FF">$200.00<br></b><font =
color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Arial"><br><font face=3D"Arial Rounded MT =
Bold"><b>A/C components from 72 =
442-Condensor,Evaporator,Compressor,etc..-Email with needs<br><br>Hooker =
competition headers for Olds350(good condition)-<font =
color=3D"#0000FF">State price<font color=3D"#000000"><br><br>Holeshot =
3000 torque conv't for Olds(used for 4 months) $305.00 new &nbsp;<font =
color=3D"#0000FF">$180.00<font color=3D"#000000"><br></b><font =
face=3D"Arial"><br>E-mail me privately.....<br><font =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>Pettrix@prodigy.net</u><font =
color=3D"#000000"><br><br></p>
</font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></f=
ont></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></body></html=
>
- ------=_NextPart_000_01BDD60F.A7835EE0--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 14:20:09 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Question about cars built in California

...add-on NOX device.  This is a unit designed to
> disable your vacuum advance.  Since you don't have smog testing for your

Ok.   Where is this thing at.
___________

Could be anywhere, in one of several forms.  The simplest "NOX device" was
simply a pair of vacuum caps to replace the hose to the vac advance and a
decal on the dash warning the driver not to load the engine (and for this
you got the privilege of paying the state-mandated $25 cost.  More
sophisticated units actually took the form of little boxes which sensed
coolant temp and cut the vac advance back in if the engine was in danger of
overheating.  Basically, start at the distributor's vac advance can and
look at the hose coming out of it.  If there's no hose, that's the first
type.  If the hose runs into a small vac valve or box (which could be
mounted anywhere on the firewall, fender, or engine itself, as this was
left to the discretion of the installer), that's the NOX unit.

===============

> cars anymore, simply remove it and reconnect the factory vacuum hoses.

Do I need some kind of intermediate coupling device?
___________

Basically, you just need a length of vacuum hose to go from the distributor
to the port on the engine.  Figure 3-4 feet.  Just replace whatever is
there now, to avoid any future problems.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 14:35:30 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: fan clutch working?

mike,

The inside of the clutch is filled with viscous fluid.Check the clutch for a
leak.
hope this helps

Kevin White
83 CUtlass Supreme
FE3X clone

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 14:38:24 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: "Weird" Electrical problem

Ben,
 Did you reattach the motr/trns ground strap?

Kevin White

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 13:59:08 -0500
From: bdlow@me.twsu.edu
Subject: convertible top frames

Hey guys help me out with a parts interchange problem.   Will the conv top
frames from an A-body(Cutlass/442) interchange with one on a B or C body(Delta
88 and 98)?   Thanks. Brian.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 15:26:17 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: convertible top frames

Hey guys help me out with a parts interchange problem.   Will the conv top
frames from an
A-body(Cutlass/442) interchange with one on a B or C body(Delta 88 and 98)?
Thanks.
Brian.
__________

While I have no first-hand info, I'm pretty sure they won't.  The 71-76
B-body frames, for example, use the unique "scissor" mechanism design which
is unlike that of any other GM convertible.  In general, the tops for the B
and C cars are larger than those for the A cars.  Of course, any GM
convertible of the same body family and vintage _will_ interchange.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 12:36:58 -0700
From: Indrek Lusik <Indrek_Lusik@Lantrek.com>
Subject: rebuilt engine????

I have recently acquired a 1966 Oldsmobile Tornado with 92k miles.  It
is smoking, not too much but alot, and the motor is tapping, sometimes
louder, sometimes very low.  It has a hard time idling, and when
driving, sometimes stalls out and won't restart until I wait awhile.
The smoke is white, not blue, and seems to start-up right away when
first attempted.  I know it will need some work, but where can I get a
rebuilt 425 engine, or should I just have the one that is there
rebuilt?  And if so, I am looking for a mechanic in the San Francisco
Bay area that I can trust not to rip people off, that will look at my
car and help determine if I even need to rebuild the engine or can I get
by for a couple thousand miles with some engine work.  Please help!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 16:13:30 EDT
From: GChris1511@aol.com
Subject: Re: internet provider, non-Olds

Re ISP candidates I have AOL and I am going to change.  AOL has not been
helpful in solving problems like connecting me to a telephone number for acess
that cannot be dialed by their system.  When I complain that I can't get acess
they act like they don't understand the problem.  further their browser can't
even find internet addresses that are theirs.  I have to find things using
keywords in the internet address blocks.  AOL consultants don't understand
this problem.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 16:38:18 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure / Oil Cooler

I've run this motor like this twice RT to Ohio and once RT to Michigan, all the
way from Wash,DC, plus alot of highway miles around here, 3000RPM the whole
way, 180 to 198 degree water temp, Castrol 10W-30.  It is a rebuilt motor and
uses a Melling HV pump.

>How long have you run this pressure with your motor?(miles) It just that I
>have heard different people say different things about pressure. Some say
>40plus while cruising, others 50plus. Who to believe??
>Pettrix@prodigy.net

You know, if I remember right, the shop manual talks about 30-50 lbs being
acceptable, but I forget at what RPM.  The other thing to keep in mind is that
the oil pressure idiot light comes on at around 7 lbs.

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 16:33:54 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: driveshaft yoke/tranny ?

> I had the same problem when I put in a 400 trans. You are better off just
> getting a new driveshaft made. I don't believe the driveshaft company will
> take your existing shaft and lengthen it.

They will, if the shop's any good.  Of course if they AREN'T any
good.... Had it done once.  Balanced and trued.  Worked like a champ.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 22:35:22 +0200
From: "F.J.R. de Neys" <ron.deneys@wxs.nl>
Subject: Re: fan clutch working?

How about "connecting" your fan directly on to the engine so it always
runs with the engine, bypassing the clutch ??

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 22:39:27 +0200
From: "F.J.R. de Neys" <ron.deneys@wxs.nl>
Subject: power brake unit

The membrame in my power brake unit is gone,
probably 'cause I replaced my master cylinder about a half a year ago
and I must have spilled some brake fluid.
Is there an easy way to overhaul the thing (with the strong spring in it
and all).
or is it much better and easier to put a new unit on ?

Ron
'72 cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 14:44:23 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: My City

I hear you, I had to remove my 75 88 4-dr from in front of my house,
parked off the road, out of the way, while others leave stuff all
over!!!

It's all in who you know etc...  (I have 4 cars in MY Driveway now, and
I intend to fight all busy-bodies who want me to move them)..

I think you'll find most complainers have a little something to hide
about themselves!!

Keep on fightin.........

Eric
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/pics/4_olds_in_driveway.jpg <-- And staying
there until I say different
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/

Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada) wrote:
>
> Hi everybody,
>
> Well my city is at it again.  Bugging me about Scarlet.  Had to show proof of
> insurance and registration
> to my local Police Relations yahoo.  Also had to drive Scarlet around the
> neighborhood to show that it
> can move under its own power.  I did find out which neighbor was causing the
> problem.  Had to set her straight.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 13:38:47 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: fan clutch working?

uh I believe this is called a propeller not a fan the flex fans are this way
and some early cars had a 4 blade steel fan that was fixed solid and sounded
like a turboprop warming up on the ramp of an airport...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: F.J.R. de Neys <ron.deneys@wxs.nl>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, September 01, 1998 1:41 PM
Subject: Re: fan clutch working?


>How about "connecting" your fan directly on to the engine so it always
>runs with the engine, bypassing the clutch ??

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 15:32:35 -0500
From: "Paul L. Brillhart" <pbrill1@uicvm.cc.uic.edu>
Subject: Re: stud kit

George,

  Check with Mondello or Bob Handren or Jim Chemack (sp???) I recall a
thread on straps that came down to your not needing to mill the mains if
you're not using a baffle/windage tray.  Both of the later names are very
knowledgeable and have "been there..done that" when it comes to assembling
Olds big blocks.




At 11:42 AM 9/1/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
>
>Hi Guys,
>
>thanks for your help with the specs for the stud kit! Unfortunately I
>did not know of the machining need of the caps... and I don't want to
>wait and go thru that.
>
>So this engine will go without the kit which does not really matter, it
>will be a close to factory rebuilt anyway.
>But I am pretty sure there will be an olds engine in my livingroom for
>the kit in the future... and I'll keep the specs!
>
>Thank you again,
>George
>
>--------------------------------------------------------------
>'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
>http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
>--------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
Paul L. Brillhart, Ph.D.
Research Engineer
PBRILL1@uic.edu
Energy Resources Center
University of Illinois at Chicago
(312) 413-2646

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 15:09:45 -0600
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: Why bother? (was: RE: driveshaft yoke/tranny ?)

> > I had the same problem when I put in a 400 trans. You are
> better off just
> > getting a new driveshaft made. I don't believe the driveshaft
> company will
> > take your existing shaft and lengthen it.

I talked to the town tranny-master about getting a TH400 rebuilt once.  He
got nosy and asked what I was putting it behind.  I told him a stock high
output 455.  He asked why I wanted to use a TH400 when the TH350 could
handle the power and took much less HP to turn. If that's the case, why
bother putting in a TH400 and have to deal with getting the driveshaft
shortened, etc?  When I get around to dropping in my 455, I'm just going to
leave the TH350 in place to see how long it lasts...

I'll stop rambling now.

Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 13:41:11 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: power brake unit

there are rebuilders that specialize in these check hemmings and it is not
impossible to do it yourself however I wouldnt recommend it...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: F.J.R. de Neys <ron.deneys@wxs.nl>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, September 01, 1998 1:44 PM
Subject: power brake unit


>The membrame in my power brake unit is gone,
>probably 'cause I replaced my master cylinder about a half a year ago
>and I must have spilled some brake fluid.
>Is there an easy way to overhaul the thing (with the strong spring in it
>and all).
>or is it much better and easier to put a new unit on ?
>
>Ron
>'72 cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 18:26:47 EDT
From: TomW30@aol.com
Subject: Great Timing

   Well, this morning at 11:00 am I finished 6 months of body work on my '69
442. I sanded down the last coat of primer in preparation for a professional
base coat/clear coat treatment (decided against trying to spray it myself). I
took my baby out for a 20 min. "blow-out" on I-95 to clear her throat and
parked it in front of the house before dropping it off at the shop. BOOOOM!
   You gessed it. A 16 yr old, backing out of the house across the street.
"I'm so sorry."
    At least she has insurance. I may be looking to locate quite a few more
parts. I don't think I can repair the front left fender. The door.....maybe.
What hurts the most is the radiator core support. I had it dipped, then primed
and sprayed, and many of you know the amount of labor one of these involves.
It's bent now too. I think I can save it but I dread tearing it all down
again.
    Well, like the say, "S--t happens!

                                Tom

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 15:43:22 PDT
From: "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: DON'T SPEED

>
>How old was your friend and what type of car did he flip over? Was this
a
>street race or were they just going too fast?
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
he was 20 ,it was his moms car,it was a 94 cheby,but he has a realy nice
77 comaro(real fast)its a good thing he was not driveing that.
and he was just going to fast : (

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 18:51:39 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Great Timing

TomW30@aol.com wrote:
>
>    Well, this morning at 11:00 am I finished 6 months of body work on my '69
> 442. I sanded down the last coat of primer in preparation for a professional

[snip of "hammer-down" drive and enormous irony]

> It's bent now too. I think I can save it but I dread tearing it all down
> again.
>     Well, like the say, "S--t happens!
>
>                                 Tom

Yeah, that pretty much gets the "oh hell" from me. I have similar
visions of my 73 when it gets done. I pull out of the body shop driveway
carefully, and some idiot plows right into me.

That has to suck, man. I feel for ya terribly. Let me guess, she was
driving some newer car, ya' know, the ones that are all bubbly and have
no "soul", right?

I tried to explain that to a girl today, about old cars having souls and
new cars not having souls unless they have been REALLY personalized. She
told me I was full of it and that her '89 plain-jane Gr*nd Am had a
soul. I told her "naise".

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl)
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl)
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl)
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl)
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 18:52:31 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: My City

There was a time in my checkered career when I had the misfortune to live
(was stuck) on Long Island, New york.  Had the great fortune to know a guy
named Frank Dominnianni.  He had a shop in a town called Valley Stream.  In
the back yard he had a Mercedes Benz 300sl Gullwing that was in disrepair.
The city came to him and told him there was an ordinance against storing
junk vehicles on private property.  The city MADE him crush a Gullwing!  It
was that or suffer the consequences of an irate minion of the law.
Sometimes, gov't employees are incredibly obtuse.  The law says........., so
that's the way it's gonna be.  Go figger.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 18:08:25 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: rebuilt engine????

> I have recently acquired a 1966 Oldsmobile Tornado with 92k miles.  It
> is smoking, not too much but alot, and the motor is tapping, sometimes
> louder, sometimes very low.  It has a hard time idling, and when
> driving, sometimes stalls out and won't restart until I wait awhile.
> The smoke is white, not blue, and seems to start-up right away when
> first attempted.  I know it will need some work, but where can I get a
> rebuilt 425 engine, or should I just have the one that is there
> rebuilt?

> car and help determine if I even need to rebuild the engine or can I get
> by for a couple thousand miles with some engine work.  Please help!!!

For the white smoke, I would try to put in new head gaskets, they seem
to leak. (Listers: correct me if I'm wrong! Also a good idea would be to
measure the compression to get an idea.)
When you put in new head gaskets, at that point you will be able to see the
inside of the motor and get an impression if you can put some more miles
on it or if you have to rebuild it straight ahead.

I would not get another engine. Take the one you have, especially if it
is still the original block and rebuild it. Do as much work as you can
yourself and you will save money and also you can see the machine work
and the parts you put in the motor... try not to give the motor to a shop
which does the whole rebuilt plus assembling. That way you buy it blind
and you have a risk that you get ripped off with cheap or even used
parts and bad labour. Only give all the work away if you trust someone
totally.

Hope this helps. Regards, George
- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 19:27:17 EDT
From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Subject: Un*ubscribe

Please unsub*cribe when you get a chance, thanks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 18:30:37 -0600
From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@interaccess.com>
Subject: Re: '87 442 - Low reading on voltmeter guage?

brad.nicholson@ssa.gov wrote:
>
> All,
> Never thought a two car garage w/ a house attached was so much work!  Haven't
> been on the list much and usually catch up every couple of days.
>
> Anyhow a LONG while back, 'bout 5 years ago, my '87 442 voltmeter gauge
> would only register 11-12 volts cruising and drop to 10-11 at a stop (brake
> lights ALWAYS bring it down)  When I had it repainted last year, the
> battery died & I replaced it w/ a DieHard (May 1997)  Same time my right
<snip>

Brad,
  One other thing to think about...my voltmeter always reads a little
low on my '86.  When I took my cluster apart to clean it I was playing
with the connectors.  I found I could make my voltage meter read higher
simply by pushing the cluster connector on a little harder.  Could be
that your connections to your cluster are a little loose/corroded,
etc...  I would check the voltage at one of the accesory power ports on
your fuse block.  IF it is low there, then check the other stuff already
recommended.  IF it looks good there, the preinted circuit connections
or connector to the dash cluster could be gooped up....

HTH..
- --
- ---Matt
Chicago, IL
'86 442
- --------------------------------------------------------
mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
- --------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 19:52:36 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Books?

RAY.COSTANZO@firstunion.com wrote:

>    Does anyone know of any books that are striclty about Oldsmobile, w
>    hether it be technical, historical, etc.?
>    I mean, if there's an International Scout II book, you think there'
>    d be at least one Olds book.
>
>    Ray Costanzo

Ray,

There's lots of books on Oldsmobiles, you must not be looking at the
right place.  Just a few are:

The Cars of Oldsmobile, by the late Dennis Casteele, $34.95 from Classic
Motorbooks.
Setting the Pace, by Helen Jones Earley and James Walkinshaw, former
Oldsmobile employees
The Standard Catalog of Oldsmobile 1897-1997, by Chevedden and Kowalke

The other 2 should be available from Classic Motorbooks too, but they
aren't in my condensed catalog that I just got in the mail.  Go here for
more info:

http://www.motorbooks.com

- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 19:56:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: fan clutch working?

> saved) however, I would like to check to see if my clutch is working?

Try following the procedure in a service manual, which goes something
like this:  Block the front grill to reduce airflow through the radiator.
Insert a temperature probe in one of the existing holes in the shroud so
that the air temperature between the radiator and fan blades can be
measured, making sure that it doesn't interfere with the blades.  The
clutch should tighten anywhere between 150 and 190 F; the transition from
an unlocked to a locked position should be distinct.  Remove the grill
obstruction and observe that the clutch unlocks in a similar manner as the
radiator cools.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 19:57:07 EDT
From: Stakin@aol.com
Subject: Re: Carter AFB

            The off idle stumble / hesitation is most commonly a bad
accelerator pump. Dont  drill holes in the butterflies this wont help your
problem. The accelerator pump  is on the drivers side front of the carb
simmilar to the Q-jet in that it sticks out the top and has a rod coming from
the throttle shaft assembly that

Joe Stackman

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 20:25:18 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: fan clutch working?

Kevin Wong wrote:

>Block the front grill to reduce airflow through the radiator.
> Insert a temperature probe in one of the existing holes in the shroud so
> that the air temperature between the radiator and fan blades can be
> measured, making sure that it doesn't interfere with the blades.  The
> clutch should tighten anywhere between 150 and 190 F; the transition from
> an unlocked to a locked position should be distinct.  Remove the grill
> obstruction and observe that the clutch unlocks in a similar manner as the
> radiator cools.

I installed a new clutch on my '67 Ninety Eight recently and tried
something similar to this to check if it was working properly.  Here's
what happens:

The fan roars immediately upon being started and will roar for the first
few blocks of driving.  I'm assuming this is normal, since my '98 Chevy
K1500 does the same thing.  I NEVER heard the fan roar with the old
clutch in the 4 years that I've had the car, so I'm assuming the old
clutch was definately bad.  But, I blocked off the radiator and inserted
a temperature probe into the radiator itself, on the top with the top
plate removed.  This, naturally, indicated the radiator temp instead of
the air temp.  I ran the rad temp up to 200 and the fan never kicked
on.  I removed the obstruction at 200 due to fear of overheating the car
(I just finished repairing an overheating problem and am reluctant to
run the temperature up).  Shouldn't the fan have kicked on?

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 08:50:55 -0400
From: Andy Mikesell <andymikesell@mediaone.net>
Subject: Fan Clutch Thread

With the current Fan clutch discussion going, I though I would ask a few
questions related to my recent temperature problem:

On Saturday I noticed a small rattling noise when I started my 71 Olds
convertible (455 2 barrel, a/c).  Sure enough, the car's temp has
started moving from its normal 185 mark to around 220.  The car has 235K
miles on it total, the engine was rebuilt at 120K by the former owner.
Since I have no indication the former owner replaced the water pump, and
having replaced the fan clutch about 30K miles ago, I figured the water
pump was due.

Today, I inspected the fan clutch after reading all the posts.  Go
figure, the thermal clutch is bad again.  So,

1.  Do I go with a thermal or regular fan clutch?  Does it matter?  Both
are available for my car.  The current clutch is thermal and I am a bit
weary of the thermal type now that I have to replace it after 30K miles.

2.  Should I consider a direct bolt-up with a flex fan and a spacer?
Are there really any cooling advantages with flex fans?  (This car is a
stock daily driver with no hi-performance mods)

3.  Should I bag the entire belt driven fan assembly and go with dual
electric (the Auto Zone's part supplier preferred option.  Uh huh.)

I am going to replace the water pump as preventative maintenance, and to
do so, the fan has to come out.  What's your opinion?

Thanks,
Andy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 17:55:10 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Question about cars built in California

At 01:10 PM 9/1/98 +0100, you wrote:
>My 70 S was built in the Fremont, CA plant. Does this necessarily mean
>that has crappy emissions stuff on it. I live in Michigan, and bought it
>from a guy in the same town.

my '66 was built in the Fremont plant and it didn't have the A.I.R
that calif-only cars had.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 18:03:33 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: The Parts Place,, good experience

Earlier ,people were asking if anyone had good luck with The Parts Place
in illinois.
I ordered there disk brake conversion kits and had good luck. The sales
people
make sure what you are ordering will fit. my parts arived in about 10 days,
they
were in good shape AND were what I ordered.

You people with front drum brakes might want to look at this kit. :)
Master cylinder,Booster, Proprtioning valve, Hoses, Lines, Bearings/Seals,
Calipers, Caliper brackets, Caliper bolts, Spindles and Rotors

$800 + shipping

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 21:21:50 -0400
From: Andre Martin <andrem@igs.net>
Subject: Finding a body

I am currently rebuilding a '79 olds 98 with a 403 in it.  I would like
to find a lighter body to drop the engine into when I'm done but am not
sure what it will fit into without alot of modifications to the engine
compartment etc.  I would be greatful for any suggestions or insights
you may have.  E-Mail me at andrerm@igs.net.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 18:28:52 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Finding a body

At 09:21 PM 9/1/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I am currently rebuilding a '79 olds 98 with a 403 in it.  I would like
>to find a lighter body to drop the engine into when I'm done but am not
>sure what it will fit into without alot of modifications to the engine
>compartment etc.  I would be greatful for any suggestions or insights
>you may have.  E-Mail me at andrerm@igs.net.

It will bolt into any car with a Olds Small block.
cutlass, 88, even a 78-79 (mabye 77) Pontiac 6.6 Trans Am

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 21:26:31 -0400
From: "Jim & Joanne Chermack" <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: F/S: Cutlass/442 Parts

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BDD5EF.3003D720
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

                                           C&M Classic Parts
                       1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                                (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
                                         <chermac@exis.net>
                                               OCA# 24275

Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm,  Sat 9:00 am - 3:00 pm,  Sunday =
Closed
*We accept all major Credit Cards. VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and =
Discover.*
Lots of new reproduction parts will be coming out Fall/Winter 98.

** As of September we will be making UPS or mail shipments to Canada.**

                                         GM Restoration Parts

** Parts cars and cars for sale at bottom of parts list:

New arrival "Parts"
68-72 Convertible Top (w/glass window, new, black)  $185.00
66 442 RH fender (nice)  $275.00
67 Cutlass Hood  $90.00
10 Bolt W-27 Rear Cover (new)  $87.00 ea
12 Bolt W-27 Rear Cover (new)  $87.00 ea
68-75 TH350 Shifter Cable Bracket (N.O.S.)  $20.00 ea
65-67 442 Upper Radiator Hose (N.O.S.)  $27.00 ea
67-75 TH400 Shifter Cable Bracket (N.O.S.)  $20.00 ea
70-72 Dash Chrome Bead (new)  $58.00 ea
69-72 Conv. Window Fuzzies (correct bead Outers only)  $50.00 set
Super Stock I and II/III centers (N.O.S.)  SALE $31.00 ea.
64-66 Auto Console (black, w/wiring, nice)  $125.00
66 442 Grille (good bars, decent rocket, 1 tab missing)  $100.00
68-72 W-30 Stick Cam .475 lift/ 328 dur. (N.O.S. in box)  $275.00
67 8 Track Player (nice, works?)  $75.00
68 8 Track Player (needs work, nice unit, housing broken)  $65.00
66 Toro Front Valance Panel (complete w/headlight assm)  $90.00
71 Cutlass "S" Grilles (nice used)  $100.00 pr
66 442/Cutlass Owners Manual (mint)  $12.00
64-72 Power Door Lock Solenoids  $35.00 ea
64-67 Auto Trans Flexplates  $35.00
69 ERTL Hurst/ Olds (discontinued)  $45.00
65-67 400 Jahn's Pistons (new, + .025, floating pins)  $250.00=20
69-72 Tilt Steering Column (column shift)  $125.00
Toro Oil Pan (w/HV Melling pump and pickup) $105.00
69-72 442 Air Cleaner (correct large snorkel, reg or OAI base)  $155.00
68-72 Z-bar  $45.00 ea
70-72 350 4 bbl Intake Manifold  $55.00
68-72 Conv. Windshield molding set (mint)  $125.00 set
68-72 4 spd. Z bar support (bolt on) $15.00=20
69-72 Seat Backs & Lower Sides (nice orig, black or tan)  $100.00 set
64-67 A/C Chrome Dash Bezels (nice)  $40.00 pr
       =20
New Repro Parts:
64-67 Battery Tray (Repro)  $25.00
66 442 Tri-Carb Linkage Kit (complete) $78.00
67 442 Grille Bar (repro)  $92.00
67 Fender Eye Brow Moldings (LH/RH, repro)  $73.00 pr
66-67 442/Cutlass Drip Rail Moldings (NEW, repro) $78.00 set
67-70 Turn Signal Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea
67-70 Tilt Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea=20
68-72 License Plate Bracket (Repro)  $23.50
68-70 W-31 Cam Kits (w/lifters & lube)  $132.00
68-72 1/4 Glass Chrome Moldings (Repro)  $92.00 pr
69-72 Rear Spoiler (3 piece repro)  $255.00
70-72 Hood Pin Kits (NEW, original supplier, complete) $115.00
71or72 442 Grille Numeral Sets (repro, either year)  $34.00 set
71-72 442 Hood Emblem (repro, Non OAI) $20.00

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts 1964-1972 Olds/Cutlass/442
64 BIG CAR (N.O.S.) RH Fender  $340.00
64-72 Clutch Inspection covers (N.O.S.)  $22.00 ea
68-72+ TH Torque Converter Cover (Plastic, N.O.S.)  $36.00 ea
66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea                          =20
68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea                      =20
68-7? Under Hood Light kits (N.O.S.)  $35.00 ea
69-72 442 Trunk Numeral Sets (N.O.S.) $45.00 set
69-70 442 Hood Numeral Sets  (N.O.S.) $47.00 set
69-72 442 Fender Numeral Sets (N.O.S.) $34.00 set
70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
70-72 OAI Air Cleaner Springs (N.O.S)  $5.00 ea
71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr =20
71-72 Front Grille Plastics (N.O.S)  $35.00 ea                       =20
73-77 Cutlass/442/Hurst Wiper Switch (N.O.S.)  $22.00

New Aftermarket Parts
Competition Cams 280H Magnum cam (new)  $120.00
66-72 Oil Pressure Sending Unit (With Gauges)  $24.00 ea
64-87 Oil Pressure Sending Unit (W/O Gauges)  $13.00 ea
69-72 Ignition Switch (w/o tilt)  *new*  $24.00
69-72 Ignition Switch (w/tilt) *new*  $22.00
70-72 455 Engine Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $32.00 pr
64-67 330 / 68-72 350 Engine Mount (NEW)  $32.00 pr
64-72 Jetaway/TH350, 4 Spd Trans Mount (NEW, made in USA)  $14.00=20
350/455 Oil Pump Screens (NEW)  $13.00 ea
425/455 Toro Oil Pump Screens (NEW)  $20.00 ea
STD Melling Oil Pumps (NEW)  $30.00 ea
Hi Volume Melling Oil Pumps (NEW)  $46.00 ea
330/350 10.5 in x 10 spline Clutch Kits includes Pressure plate, disc,
throwout bearing, alignment tool. (all NEW pieces)  $135.00 + $19.00 =
core charge
400/455 11.0 in x 10 spline Clutch Kits same as above (all NEW pieces)
$135.00 +$19.00 core charge
3&4 Spd. Pilot Bushing (Bronze) new  $7.50 ea
3&4 Spd. HD Roller Pilot Bearing new  $24.50 ea=20

Used Parts:
64 Cutlass/442                      =20
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  =
$75.00
64-65 Spinner Hubcab (dual bar, single)  $35.00
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00                                               =
  =20
Front Bumper Core  $50.00                                                =
  =20
F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00=20
64-65 F-85 Steering Wheel Center (mint)  $15.00

65 Cutlass/442
65 442 Air Cleaner Top (no base)  $100.00
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  =
$75.00
65 Cutlass Dash Emblem (mint)  $20.00
64-65 Spinner Hubcab (dual bar, single)  $35.00
65 Cutlass 4 Door Rear Wheelwell Die cast pieces (front)  $20.00 pr
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  LH/RH rear $15.00 ea
64-65 F-85 Steering Wheel Center (mint)  $15.00

66 Cutlass/442
(1) 66-67 14x6 SSI  (good cond)  $50.00
66-67 442 Air Cleaner (1 nice, 1 good)  $85.00 (good)  $135.00 (nice)
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  =
$75.00
66 Cutlass-67 Cutlass/442 Fenders (Arizona parts, nice)  $500.00 pr
66-67 Inner Fender Plastic Clips $1.00 ea
66 442 Trunk Chrome Panels  $100.00 ea=20
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Emblem $10.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Molding  $20.00
66 Fender Eybrows (nice, no pits)  $35.00 pr
66 Spinner Hubcap (Tri bar, single)  $20.00
66 Floor Shift Steering Column Collars $10.00 ea
66-67 Clocks  $40.00 ea
66 F-85 Deluxe/Cutlass Steering Wheel Center (w/hub) $20.00=20
66 Cutlass Supreme Dash Emblem (very nice)  $20.00
66 F-85 Deluxe Dash Emblem (nice)  $5.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Molding  $35.00
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
66 Cutlass Trunk Molding (very good)  $45.00
66 Cutlass Tail Light Bezels (very good)  $85.00 pr
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (nice)   $55.00
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (good)  $35.00=20
66-67 AM Radios (nice)  $30.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
66 Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
Post Coupe Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr
F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea                                 =20

67 Cutlass/442
(1) 66-67 14x6 SSI  (good cond)  $50.00
67 Front Bumper Filler Panel (mint)  $40.00
67 442/Cutlass Radiator Support (nice)  $130.00
66-67 442 Air Cleaner (1 nice, 1 good)  $85.00 (good)  $135.00 (nice)
66-67 Inner Fender Plastic Clips $1.00 ea
67 442 Trunk Panel (beautiful)  $150.00
67 Deluxe Full Wheel Covers $35.00 set
66-67 Clocks  $40.00 ea
67 Cutlass Dash Emblem (good)  $10.00
67 Cutlass Supreme Dash Emblems (2 very nice)  $20.00 ea
67 442/Cutlass Front Bumper Guards  $15.00 pr
67 Remote Mirror (good, not great)  $20.00
67 F-85 Steering Wheel Center (good chrome) $15.00
67 Cutlass Supreme/442 Steering Wheel Centers (mint)  $35.00=20
67 Fender End Caps  $30.00 pr
67 4 spd Speedometer Adapter (3.42 gears & 4spd)  $45.00
67 Plain Cutlass Holiday Hardtop interior door panels and rear sides =
(very
nice, blue/green) $85.00 set of 4
67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea
67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.50 ea
66-67 AM Radios  (nice)  $30.00 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $50.00 pr
67 RH Fender (small metal patch panel, straight)  $165.00

68 Cutlass/442
68 442 Air Cleaner Heat tube assm (2 pieces)  $30.00
68-69 442 Glove Box Door (black)  $18.00
68-69 LH Plastic Inner Fender (w/black washer bottle)  $65.00
68-69 442/W-30 400 Intake Manifold  $50.00
68 Cutlass/442 Backup Lens (nice)  $22.00 pr
68 Trunk Vinyl Top Molding & Plate  $25.00
68 2 bbl Air Cleaner  $20.00
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
68 Turn Signal Lens (mint)  $12.00 ea
68 Cutlass Rear Bumper (core)  $75.00
68-69 14x6 SSII Wheels (set of 5)  $200.00
68 AM Radio  $25.00
68  8-Track Unit (housing cracked, needs plastic one)  $55.00
Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set                              =20
68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $25.00 ea                                       =
    =20
68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea                               =20
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Sets (black, mint) $27.50 pr=20

69 Cutlass/442
68-69 442 Glove Box Door (black)  $18.00
68-69 LH Plastic Inner Fender (w/black washer bottle)  $65.00
69 Front Bumper (no pits, bent from tow truck)  $85.00
69 Head light Bezels (mint)  $65.00 pr
69 Hood Tongue $20.00
68-69 442/W-30 400 Intake Manifold  $50.00
69 Convertible Trunk Lid (nice)  $150.00
69 Turn Signal Lens (nice)  $25.00 pr
69 Front Grille Center Filler (between grilles)  $8.00
69 Full Hubcaps (nice)  $35.00 set
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
69 Cutlass RH Grille (nice, used)  $40.00
69 Radiator Core Support 3 Row (mint, no rust holes)  $150.00
69-72 Hood Hinges  $40.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Louver Chrome  $25.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Louver Moldiings  $25.00 pr
68-72 Windshield Molding Sets  $45.00 set                                =
=20
69 RH Fender (small nickel sized hole)  $200.00
69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $55.00 ea
69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $25.00 ea

70 Cutlass/442
70 Hood Tongue $40.00
70 Front Bumper (core)  $85.00
70 Fender Eybrows (nice, no pits)  $45.00 pr
70 RH Rally 350 grille (repaired, nice)  $75.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
70 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr
70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (excellent)  $115.00
70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
70-72 455 Std. Iron intake manifold (auto cars)  $55.00
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00                                   =20
69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00                               =
=20
69-70 "S" Hood Chrome Vents  $25.00 pr                                   =
    =20
69-70 "S" Hood Vent Moldings  $25.00 pr
70 "S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr        =20
70 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $90.00                                 =20
70-72 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens (restored)  $17.00 ea
70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens (restored) $23.00 ea

71 Cutlass/442
70-71 Cutlass Supreme Side Marker Lights (mint)  $70.00 set
71 LH Cutlass Supreme Grille (nice)  $85.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 pr
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
70-72 C/S LH/RH Side Glass  $25.00 ea=20
71 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr

72 Cutlass/442
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 pr
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00                                 =20
72 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr           =20
72 Tail Light Lens  $13.00 ea

73 and Newer and Big Car Parts:
Late 73-74 Olds HEI distributors (non cumputer, w/cap and coil)  $45.00 =
ea
73-75 442 Console and Shifter (Maroon)  $120.00
73-77 Omega Floor Shift Tilt  $65.00
75 Omega Front Fenders (very nice pair)  $180.00 pr
75 Omega Bucket Seats (nice, maroon cloth)  $85.00 pr
66-67 Toronado Rear Bumper (very nice)  $150.00
66 Toro Batman Steering Wheel, Tilt/Tele column (black, very nice)  =
$145.00
72 Delta 88 Qtr End caps  $25.00 pr
72 Delta 88/ Ninety Eight Owners Manual (nice) $5.00
62 Super 88 Tail Panel Chrome  (good)  $25.00
62 Super 88 Grille (good)  $50.00
62 Big Car (88, 98, Starfire) Front Bumper (straight, very good)  =
$125.00=20


New reproduction parts:
Convertible Top Boots (Correct Grains for each different year)  $85.00ea
64  Black, Red, Lt. Blue, Fawn, Saddle, Turqoise, White
65  Same as 64 =20
66-67 Black, Red, Light Blue, Med. Blue, Bronze, Turqoise, White, Gold
68-72 Black, Red, Parchment, Lt. Blue, Teal Blue, Green Gold, Gold, =
Pearl,
Dk Blue, Dk. Green, Lt. Green, Lt. Saddle, Dk Saddle, Olive Green, Royal
Blue, White, Sandalwood,=20

Molded Carpet Sets  $95.00=20
64-67 - (Black, Red, Med. Blue, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Maroon)
68-72 - (Black, Red, Maroon, Turqoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Med. Blue, Dk. =
Green,
Green Gold, Lt. Green, Teal Blue, Saddle, Sandalwood)
73-77 - (Same as 68-72 except Green Gold)

Door Panels  64-72  $265.00 set of 4

Seat Covers  64-72  $335.00 front and rear sets any year or color.

Lifetime Guarantee on all correct bead window felts  $92.00 set (inner & =
outer)
66-67 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (correct bead type)=20
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (not Supreme Coupes, correct bead)=20
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv (Outers only, correct bead)  $50.00

Replacement Window Felts (Flat type)  $60.00 set (inner & outer)
64-72 Cutlass/442 (state year and model)

Glove Box Liners
64-67 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
68-69 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
70-72 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99

Qrt Seals
70-72 Cutlass Supreme & Conv Qtr End seals  $13.00 pr

Hood Insulation
64-65 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
66 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
67 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
68-70 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner (wclips)  $18.00
70-72 Cutlass Supreme Hood Liner (w/clips)  $18.00
73-77 Cutlass $28.00

Liner Clips
Round Clips  $1.00 ea
Square Clips  $1.00 ea

A-Arm Shields
68-72 Upper A-Arm dust shields  $14.99 pr

***** 69-72 "W" and "Z" exhaust manifold sets (REPRO) Winter 98 *****
       We will be test fitting and running them later this year before =
they
are shipped to GM for final approval. They will be available exclusively
from C&M. Price is around $300.00 for a set. Different date codes will =
not be
available at this time. Maybe in the future. Delay has occurred due to
change in manufacturer.=20

        66-67 "X" and "W" exhaust manifold sets (REPRO) Spring 99
   =20
        66 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $1795.00
        67 W-30 Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed) $995.00
        66 & 67 Track Pac kits (complete, just like the dealer option =
includes;
        shroud, ducts, hoses, cam/lifters, battery accessories) =
Winter/Spring 98/99.

TOY'S:
69 442's (Hot Wheels size, Speed Rebels) Red $1.75 ea
Johnny Lightning Pace Cars
70 442 Pace Car (bronze or teal)  $3.50 ea
74 Hurst/Olds Pace Car (magenta)  $3.50 ea
79 Delta 88 Pace Car (White)  $3.50 ea

Others:
70 GTO Judge (Yellow) $1.75 ea =20

Models:
67 W-30 442 (Lindberg)  $14.00 ea

Parts Cars:
66 Cutlass Post Coupe (nice body, new windshield, carpet, headliner, NO =
drivetrain)  $800.00

66 Toronado (nice hood, good glass, TH425, some interior parts)  $300.00


Odds and Ends (not Olds, but GM parts we have laying around)
70-74 Trans Am Exhaust Tips (N.O.S)  $150.00 pr
68-71 Buick GS Ram Air air cleaner assm  $150.00
70-72 Buick AM/FM Stereo $150.00
71-72 Chevelle SS Emblem Kit (complete car, N.O.S. and Repro, includes =
door
panel SS N.O.S. emblems)  $140.00


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<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000=20
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
C&amp;M Classic=20
Parts<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA=20
23464<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
(757)474-0869, FAX=20
(757)474-0694<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
&lt;<A=20
href=3D"mailto:chermac@exis.net">chermac@exis.net</A>&gt;<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
OCA# 24275</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hours:&nbsp; Mon-Fri&nbsp; 6:00 pm - =
10:00=20
pm,&nbsp; Sat 9:00 am - 3:00 pm,&nbsp; Sunday Closed<BR>*We accept all =
major=20
Credit Cards. VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and Discover.*<BR>Lots of new=20
reproduction parts will be coming out Fall/Winter 98.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>** As of September we will be making =
UPS or mail=20
shipments to Canada.**</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000=20
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
GM Restoration Parts</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>** Parts cars and cars for sale at =
bottom of=20
parts list:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>New arrival =
&quot;Parts&quot;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>68-72 =
Convertible Top=20
(w/glass window, new, black)&nbsp; $185.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>66 442 RH fender (nice)&nbsp; $275.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>67 Cutlass Hood&nbsp; =
$90.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>10 Bolt W-27 =
Rear Cover=20
(new)&nbsp; $87.00 ea</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>12 Bolt W-27 =
Rear Cover=20
(new)&nbsp; $87.00 ea</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>68-75 TH350 =
Shifter Cable=20
Bracket (N.O.S.)&nbsp; $20.00 ea</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>65-67 442 Upper Radiator Hose =
(N.O.S.)&nbsp;=20
$27.00 ea</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>67-75 TH400 Shifter Cable Bracket (N.O.S.)&nbsp; =
$20.00=20
ea</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>70-72 Dash Chrome Bead (new)&nbsp; =
$58.00=20
ea<BR>69-72 Conv. Window Fuzzies (correct bead Outers only)&nbsp; $50.00 =

set<BR>Super Stock I and II/III centers (N.O.S.)&nbsp; SALE $31.00 =
ea.<BR>64-66=20
Auto Console (black, w/wiring, nice)&nbsp; $125.00<BR>66 442 Grille =
(good bars,=20
decent rocket, 1 tab missing)&nbsp; $100.00<BR>68-72 W-30 Stick Cam .475 =
lift/=20
328 dur. (N.O.S. in box)&nbsp; $275.00<BR>67 8 Track Player (nice, =
works?)&nbsp;=20
$75.00<BR>68 8 Track Player (needs work, nice unit, housing =
broken)&nbsp;=20
$65.00<BR>66 Toro Front Valance Panel (complete w/headlight assm)&nbsp;=20
$90.00<BR>71 Cutlass &quot;S&quot; Grilles (nice used)&nbsp; $100.00 =
pr<BR>66=20
442/Cutlass Owners Manual (mint)&nbsp; $12.00<BR>64-72 Power Door Lock=20
Solenoids&nbsp; $35.00 ea<BR>64-67 Auto Trans Flexplates&nbsp; =
$35.00<BR>69 ERTL=20
Hurst/ Olds (discontinued)&nbsp; $45.00<BR>65-67 400 Jahn's Pistons =
(new, +=20
.025, floating pins)&nbsp; $250.00 <BR>69-72 Tilt Steering Column =
(column=20
shift)&nbsp; $125.00<BR>Toro Oil Pan (w/HV Melling pump and pickup)=20
$105.00<BR>69-72 442 Air Cleaner (correct large snorkel, reg or OAI =
base)&nbsp;=20
$155.00<BR>68-72 Z-bar&nbsp; $45.00 ea<BR>70-72 350 4 bbl Intake =
Manifold&nbsp;=20
$55.00<BR>68-72 Conv. Windshield molding set (mint)&nbsp; $125.00 =
set<BR>68-72 4=20
spd. Z bar support (bolt on) $15.00 <BR>69-72 Seat Backs &amp; Lower =
Sides (nice=20
orig, black or tan)&nbsp; $100.00 set<BR>64-67 A/C Chrome Dash Bezels=20
(nice)&nbsp; $40.00 pr<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
<BR>New=20
Repro Parts:<BR>64-67 Battery Tray (Repro)&nbsp; $25.00<BR>66 442 =
Tri-Carb=20
Linkage Kit (complete) $78.00<BR>67 442 Grille Bar (repro)&nbsp; =
$92.00<BR>67=20
Fender Eye Brow Moldings (LH/RH, repro)&nbsp; $73.00 pr<BR>66-67 =
442/Cutlass=20
Drip Rail Moldings (NEW, repro) $78.00 set<BR>67-70 Turn Signal Levers=20
(repro)&nbsp; $26.00 ea<BR>67-70 Tilt Levers (repro)&nbsp; $26.00 ea =
<BR>68-72=20
License Plate Bracket (Repro)&nbsp; $23.50<BR>68-70 W-31 Cam Kits =
(w/lifters=20
&amp; lube)&nbsp; $132.00<BR>68-72 1/4 Glass Chrome Moldings =
(Repro)&nbsp;=20
$92.00 pr<BR>69-72 Rear Spoiler (3 piece repro)&nbsp; $255.00<BR>70-72 =
Hood Pin=20
Kits (NEW, original supplier, complete) $115.00<BR>71or72 442 Grille =
Numeral=20
Sets (repro, either year)&nbsp; $34.00 set<BR>71-72 442 Hood Emblem =
(repro, Non=20
OAI) $20.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts =
1964-1972=20
Olds/Cutlass/442<BR>64 BIG CAR (N.O.S.) RH Fender&nbsp; $340.00<BR>64-72 =
Clutch=20
Inspection covers (N.O.S.)&nbsp; $22.00 ea<BR>68-72+ TH Torque Converter =
Cover=20
(Plastic, N.O.S.)&nbsp; $36.00 ea<BR>66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) =
$36.50=20
ea&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
<BR>68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50=20
ea&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
<BR>68-7? Under Hood Light kits (N.O.S.)&nbsp; $35.00 ea<BR>69-72 442 =
Trunk=20
Numeral Sets (N.O.S.) $45.00 set<BR>69-70 442 Hood Numeral Sets&nbsp; =
(N.O.S.)=20
$47.00 set<BR>69-72 442 Fender Numeral Sets (N.O.S.) $34.00 set<BR>70-72 =
LH=20
Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)&nbsp; $200.00<BR>70-72 OAI Air Cleaner =
Springs=20
(N.O.S)&nbsp; $5.00 ea<BR>71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)&nbsp; $90.00 =
pr&nbsp;=20
<BR>71-72 Front Grille Plastics (N.O.S)&nbsp; $35.00=20
ea&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
<BR>73-77 Cutlass/442/Hurst Wiper Switch (N.O.S.)&nbsp; =
$22.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>New Aftermarket Parts<BR>Competition =
Cams 280H=20
Magnum cam (new)&nbsp; $120.00<BR>66-72 Oil Pressure Sending Unit (With=20
Gauges)&nbsp; $24.00 ea<BR>64-87 Oil Pressure Sending Unit (W/O =
Gauges)&nbsp;=20
$13.00 ea<BR>69-72 Ignition Switch (w/o tilt)&nbsp; *new*&nbsp; =
$24.00<BR>69-72=20
Ignition Switch (w/tilt) *new*&nbsp; $22.00<BR>70-72 455 Engine Mount =
(NEW, made=20
in USA)&nbsp; $32.00 pr<BR>64-67 330 / 68-72 350 Engine Mount =
(NEW)&nbsp; $32.00=20
pr<BR>64-72 Jetaway/TH350, 4 Spd Trans Mount (NEW, made in USA)&nbsp; =
$14.00=20
<BR>350/455 Oil Pump Screens (NEW)&nbsp; $13.00 ea<BR>425/455 Toro Oil =
Pump=20
Screens (NEW)&nbsp; $20.00 ea<BR>STD Melling Oil Pumps (NEW)&nbsp; =
$30.00=20
ea<BR>Hi Volume Melling Oil Pumps (NEW)&nbsp; $46.00 ea<BR>330/350 10.5 =
in x 10=20
spline Clutch Kits includes Pressure plate, disc,<BR>throwout bearing, =
alignment=20
tool. (all NEW pieces)&nbsp; $135.00 + $19.00 core charge<BR>400/455 =
11.0 in x=20
10 spline Clutch Kits same as above (all NEW pieces)<BR>$135.00 +$19.00 =
core=20
charge<BR>3&amp;4 Spd. Pilot Bushing (Bronze) new&nbsp; $7.50 =
ea<BR>3&amp;4 Spd.=20
HD Roller Pilot Bearing new&nbsp; $24.50 ea </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Used Parts:<BR>64=20
Cutlass/442&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
<BR>64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top =
plate)&nbsp;=20
$75.00<BR>64-65 Spinner Hubcab (dual bar, single)&nbsp; $35.00<BR>64-66 =
Auto=20
Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )&nbsp; $30.00<BR>RH =
Headlight=20
Bezel&nbsp;=20
$15.00&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;=20
<BR>Front Bumper Core&nbsp;=20
$50.00&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
<BR>F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)&nbsp; $5.00 <BR>64-65 F-85 Steering Wheel =
Center=20
(mint)&nbsp; $15.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>65 Cutlass/442<BR>65 442 Air Cleaner =
Top (no=20
base)&nbsp; $100.00<BR>64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front =
trim, nice=20
top plate)&nbsp; $75.00<BR>65 Cutlass Dash Emblem (mint)&nbsp; =
$20.00<BR>64-65=20
Spinner Hubcab (dual bar, single)&nbsp; $35.00<BR>65 Cutlass 4 Door Rear =

Wheelwell Die cast pieces (front)&nbsp; $20.00 pr<BR>64-66 Auto Floor =
Shifter (T=20
handle type, complete minus T )&nbsp; $30.00<BR>65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell =

Moldings&nbsp; LH/RH rear $15.00 ea<BR>64-65 F-85 Steering Wheel Center=20
(mint)&nbsp; $15.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>66 Cutlass/442<BR>(1) 66-67 14x6 =
SSI&nbsp; (good=20
cond)&nbsp; $50.00<BR>66-67 442 Air Cleaner (1 nice, 1 good)&nbsp; =
$85.00=20
(good)&nbsp; $135.00 (nice)<BR>64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing =
front=20
trim, nice top plate)&nbsp; $75.00<BR>66 Cutlass-67 Cutlass/442 Fenders =
(Arizona=20
parts, nice)&nbsp; $500.00 pr<BR>66-67 Inner Fender Plastic Clips $1.00 =
ea<BR>66=20
442 Trunk Chrome Panels&nbsp; $100.00 ea <BR>66 F-85 Trunk Lid Emblem=20
$10.00<BR>66 F-85 Trunk Lid Molding&nbsp; $20.00<BR>66 Fender Eybrows =
(nice, no=20
pits)&nbsp; $35.00 pr<BR>66 Spinner Hubcap (Tri bar, single)&nbsp; =
$20.00<BR>66=20
Floor Shift Steering Column Collars $10.00 ea<BR>66-67 Clocks&nbsp; =
$40.00=20
ea<BR>66 F-85 Deluxe/Cutlass Steering Wheel Center (w/hub) $20.00 <BR>66 =
Cutlass=20
Supreme Dash Emblem (very nice)&nbsp; $20.00<BR>66 F-85 Deluxe Dash =
Emblem=20
(nice)&nbsp; $5.00<BR>66 F-85 Trunk Lid Molding&nbsp; $35.00<BR>64-66 =
Auto Floor=20
Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )&nbsp; $30.00<BR>66 Cutlass =
Trunk=20
Molding (very good)&nbsp; $45.00<BR>66 Cutlass Tail Light Bezels (very=20
good)&nbsp; $85.00 pr<BR>66 F-85/Cutlass grille (nice)&nbsp;&nbsp; =
$55.00<BR>66=20
F-85/Cutlass grille (good)&nbsp; $35.00 <BR>66-67 AM Radios (nice)&nbsp; =
$30.00=20
ea<BR>66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)&nbsp; =
$40.00<BR>66/67=20
Repro Heater Delete Plates&nbsp; (perfect repro)&nbsp; $40.00&nbsp; =
($78.00=20
set)<BR>66 Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels&nbsp; $50.00 pr<BR>Post Coupe =
Exterior=20
A-Pillar Chrome Moldings&nbsp; $15.00 pr<BR>F-85/Cutlass Taillight =
Lens&nbsp;=20
$10.00=20
ea&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>67 Cutlass/442<BR>(1) 66-67 14x6 =
SSI&nbsp; (good=20
cond)&nbsp; $50.00<BR>67 Front Bumper Filler Panel (mint)&nbsp; =
$40.00<BR>67=20
442/Cutlass Radiator Support (nice)&nbsp; $130.00<BR>66-67 442 Air =
Cleaner (1=20
nice, 1 good)&nbsp; $85.00 (good)&nbsp; $135.00 (nice)<BR>66-67 Inner =
Fender=20
Plastic Clips $1.00 ea<BR>67 442 Trunk Panel (beautiful)&nbsp; =
$150.00<BR>67=20
Deluxe Full Wheel Covers $35.00 set<BR>66-67 Clocks&nbsp; $40.00 =
ea<BR>67=20
Cutlass Dash Emblem (good)&nbsp; $10.00<BR>67 Cutlass Supreme Dash =
Emblems (2=20
very nice)&nbsp; $20.00 ea<BR>67 442/Cutlass Front Bumper Guards&nbsp; =
$15.00=20
pr<BR>67 Remote Mirror (good, not great)&nbsp; $20.00<BR>67 F-85 =
Steering Wheel=20
Center (good chrome) $15.00<BR>67 Cutlass Supreme/442 Steering Wheel =
Centers=20
(mint)&nbsp; $35.00 <BR>67 Fender End Caps&nbsp; $30.00 pr<BR>67 4 spd=20
Speedometer Adapter (3.42 gears &amp; 4spd)&nbsp; $45.00<BR>67 Plain =
Cutlass=20
Holiday Hardtop interior door panels and rear sides (very<BR>nice, =
blue/green)=20
$85.00 set of 4<BR>67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)&nbsp; $10.00 =
ea<BR>67 Plain=20
Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)&nbsp; $5.50 ea<BR>66-67 AM Radios&nbsp;=20
(nice)&nbsp; $30.00 ea<BR>66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect =
repro)&nbsp;=20
$40.00<BR>66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates&nbsp; (perfect repro)&nbsp;=20
$40.00&nbsp; ($78.00 set)<BR>67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)&nbsp; =
$50.00=20
pr<BR>67 RH Fender (small metal patch panel, straight)&nbsp;=20
$165.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>68 Cutlass/442<BR>68 442 Air Cleaner =
Heat tube=20
assm (2 pieces)&nbsp; $30.00<BR>68-69 442 Glove Box Door (black)&nbsp;=20
$18.00<BR>68-69 LH Plastic Inner Fender (w/black washer bottle)&nbsp;=20
$65.00<BR>68-69 442/W-30 400 Intake Manifold&nbsp; $50.00<BR>68 =
Cutlass/442=20
Backup Lens (nice)&nbsp; $22.00 pr<BR>68 Trunk Vinyl Top Molding &amp;=20
Plate&nbsp; $25.00<BR>68 2 bbl Air Cleaner&nbsp; $20.00<BR>68-69 Cutlass =

&quot;S&quot;/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)&nbsp; $90.00 (3)<BR>68 =
Turn=20
Signal Lens (mint)&nbsp; $12.00 ea<BR>68 Cutlass Rear Bumper =
(core)&nbsp;=20
$75.00<BR>68-69 14x6 SSII Wheels (set of 5)&nbsp; $200.00<BR>68 AM =
Radio&nbsp;=20
$25.00<BR>68&nbsp; 8-Track Unit (housing cracked, needs plastic =
one)&nbsp;=20
$55.00<BR>Rear Window Molding Sets&nbsp; $45.00=20
set&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
<BR>68-72 Rear Hood Molding&nbsp; $25.00=20
ea&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
<BR>68-72 Cowl mouldings&nbsp; $25.00=20
ea&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
<BR>68-72 B-Pillar Molding Sets (black, mint) $27.50 pr </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>69 Cutlass/442<BR>68-69 442 Glove =
Box Door=20
(black)&nbsp; $18.00<BR>68-69 LH Plastic Inner Fender (w/black washer=20
bottle)&nbsp; $65.00<BR>69 Front Bumper (no pits, bent from tow =
truck)&nbsp;=20
$85.00<BR>69 Head light Bezels (mint)&nbsp; $65.00 pr<BR>69 Hood Tongue=20
$20.00<BR>68-69 442/W-30 400 Intake Manifold&nbsp; $50.00<BR>69 =
Convertible=20
Trunk Lid (nice)&nbsp; $150.00<BR>69 Turn Signal Lens (nice)&nbsp; =
$25.00=20
pr<BR>69 Front Grille Center Filler (between grilles)&nbsp; $8.00<BR>69 =
Full=20
Hubcaps (nice)&nbsp; $35.00 set<BR>68-69 Cutlass &quot;S&quot;/442 Wheel =
Well=20
Moldings (nice, 3)&nbsp; $90.00 (3)<BR>69 Cutlass RH Grille (nice, =
used)&nbsp;=20
$40.00<BR>69 Radiator Core Support 3 Row (mint, no rust holes)&nbsp;=20
$150.00<BR>69-72 Hood Hinges&nbsp; $40.00 pr<BR>69-70 &quot;S&quot; Hood =
Louver=20
Chrome&nbsp; $25.00 pr<BR>69-70 &quot;S&quot; Hood Louver =
Moldiings&nbsp; $25.00=20
pr<BR>68-72 Windshield Molding Sets&nbsp; $45.00=20
set&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
<BR>69 RH Fender (small nickel sized hole)&nbsp; $200.00<BR>69 Front and =
Rear 4=20
Doors&nbsp; (small dings, no rust) $55.00 ea<BR>69 4 Door Panels (Gold, =
cloth,=20
nice)&nbsp; $25.00 ea</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>70 Cutlass/442<BR>70 Hood Tongue =
$40.00<BR>70=20
Front Bumper (core)&nbsp; $85.00<BR>70 Fender Eybrows (nice, no =
pits)&nbsp;=20
$45.00 pr<BR>70 RH Rally 350 grille (repaired, nice)&nbsp; =
$75.00<BR>70-72 C/S=20
Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr<BR>70 Headlight Bezels (restored) =
$50.00=20
pr<BR>70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (excellent)&nbsp; $115.00<BR>70-71 Halo =
Vinyl Top=20
Molding sets no &quot;L &quot; moldings (mint) $55.00 set<BR>70-72 455 =
Std. Iron=20
intake manifold (auto cars)&nbsp; $55.00<BR>70 Oldsmobile Options =
Folder&nbsp;=20
$5.00&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
<BR>69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)&nbsp;=20
$12.00&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
<BR>69-70 &quot;S&quot; Hood Chrome Vents&nbsp; $25.00=20
pr&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
<BR>69-70 &quot;S&quot; Hood Vent Moldings&nbsp; $25.00 pr<BR>70 =
&quot;S&quot;=20
Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)&nbsp; $40.00=20
pr&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <BR>70 Cutlass Rear =
Bumper=20
Core&nbsp;=20
$90.00&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
<BR>70-72 Glove Box Doors&nbsp; $15.00 ea<BR>70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light =
Lens=20
(restored)&nbsp; $17.00 ea<BR>70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens =
(restored)=20
$23.00 ea</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>71 Cutlass/442<BR>70-71 Cutlass =
Supreme Side=20
Marker Lights (mint)&nbsp; $70.00 set<BR>71 LH Cutlass Supreme Grille=20
(nice)&nbsp; $85.00<BR>70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 =
pr<BR>71-72=20
Power Lock Switches&nbsp; $12.00 ea<BR>71 Cutlass Full Wheel =
Covers&nbsp; $30.00=20
set<BR>70-72 C/S LH/RH Side Glass&nbsp; $25.00 ea <BR>71 Headlight =
Bezels=20
(restored) $50.00 pr</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>72 Cutlass/442<BR>70-72 C/S Quarter =
End Caps=20
(nice) $30.00 pr<BR>71-72 Power Lock Switches&nbsp; $12.00 ea<BR>72 =
Cutlass/442=20
Owners Manual&nbsp;=20
$7.00&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
<BR>72 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00=20
pr&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
<BR>72 Tail=20
Light Lens&nbsp; $13.00 ea</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>73 and Newer and Big Car =
Parts:<BR>Late 73-74=20
Olds HEI distributors (non cumputer, w/cap and coil)&nbsp; $45.00 =
ea<BR>73-75=20
442 Console and Shifter (Maroon)&nbsp; $120.00<BR>73-77 Omega Floor =
Shift=20
Tilt&nbsp; $65.00<BR>75 Omega Front Fenders (very nice pair)&nbsp; =
$180.00=20
pr<BR>75 Omega Bucket Seats (nice, maroon cloth)&nbsp; $85.00 =
pr<BR>66-67=20
Toronado Rear Bumper (very nice)&nbsp; $150.00<BR>66 Toro Batman =
Steering Wheel,=20
Tilt/Tele column (black, very nice)&nbsp; $145.00<BR>72 Delta 88 Qtr End =

caps&nbsp; $25.00 pr<BR>72 Delta 88/ Ninety Eight Owners Manual (nice)=20
$5.00<BR>62 Super 88 Tail Panel Chrome&nbsp; (good)&nbsp; $25.00<BR>62 =
Super 88=20
Grille (good)&nbsp; $50.00<BR>62 Big Car (88, 98, Starfire) Front Bumper =

(straight, very good)&nbsp; $125.00 </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><BR>New reproduction =
parts:<BR>Convertible Top=20
Boots (Correct Grains for each different year)&nbsp; =
$85.00ea<BR>64&nbsp; Black,=20
Red, Lt. Blue, Fawn, Saddle, Turqoise, White<BR>65&nbsp; Same as =
64&nbsp;=20
<BR>66-67 Black, Red, Light Blue, Med. Blue, Bronze, Turqoise, White,=20
Gold<BR>68-72 Black, Red, Parchment, Lt. Blue, Teal Blue, Green Gold, =
Gold,=20
Pearl,<BR>Dk Blue, Dk. Green, Lt. Green, Lt. Saddle, Dk Saddle, Olive =
Green,=20
Royal<BR>Blue, White, Sandalwood, </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Molded Carpet Sets&nbsp; $95.00 =
<BR>64-67 -=20
(Black, Red, Med. Blue, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Maroon)<BR>68-72 - =
(Black,=20
Red, Maroon, Turqoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Med. Blue, Dk. Green,<BR>Green =
Gold, Lt.=20
Green, Teal Blue, Saddle, Sandalwood)<BR>73-77 - (Same as 68-72 except =
Green=20
Gold)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Door Panels&nbsp; 64-72&nbsp; =
$265.00 set of=20
4</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Seat Covers&nbsp; 64-72&nbsp; =
$335.00 front and=20
rear sets any year or color.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Lifetime Guarantee on all correct =
bead window=20
felts&nbsp; $92.00 set (inner &amp; outer)<BR>66-67 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv =
Window=20
Felts (correct bead type) <BR>68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (not =
Supreme=20
Coupes, correct bead) <BR>68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv (Outers only, correct=20
bead)&nbsp; $50.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Replacement Window Felts (Flat =
type)&nbsp;=20
$60.00 set (inner &amp; outer)<BR>64-72 Cutlass/442 (state year and=20
model)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Glove Box Liners<BR>64-67 Glovebox =
Liner=20
w/clips&nbsp; $15.99<BR>68-69 Glovebox Liner w/clips&nbsp; =
$15.99<BR>70-72=20
Glovebox Liner w/clips&nbsp; $15.99</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Qrt Seals<BR>70-72 Cutlass Supreme =
&amp; Conv=20
Qtr End seals&nbsp; $13.00 pr</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hood Insulation<BR>64-65 Cutlass/442 =
Hood=20
Liner&nbsp; (w/clips)&nbsp; $18.00<BR>66 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner&nbsp;=20
(w/clips)&nbsp; $18.00<BR>67 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner&nbsp; =
(w/clips)&nbsp;=20
$18.00<BR>68-70 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner (wclips)&nbsp; $18.00<BR>70-72 =
Cutlass=20
Supreme Hood Liner (w/clips)&nbsp; $18.00<BR>73-77 Cutlass =
$28.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Liner Clips<BR>Round Clips&nbsp; =
$1.00=20
ea<BR>Square Clips&nbsp; $1.00 ea</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>A-Arm Shields<BR>68-72 Upper A-Arm =
dust=20
shields&nbsp; $14.99 pr</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>***** 69-72 &quot;W&quot; and =
&quot;Z&quot;=20
exhaust manifold sets (REPRO) Winter 98=20
*****<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; We will be test fitting =
and=20
running them later this year before they<BR>are shipped to GM for final=20
approval. They will be available exclusively<BR>from C&amp;M. Price is =
around=20
$300.00 for a set. Different date codes will not be<BR>available at this =
time.=20
Maybe in the future. Delay has occurred due to<BR>change in =
manufacturer.=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 66-67=20
&quot;X&quot; and &quot;W&quot; exhaust manifold sets (REPRO) Spring=20
99<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <BR></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000=20
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 66 W-30 Shrouds =
(stamped=20
steel, chromed) $1795.00<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
67 W-30=20
Shrouds (stamped steel, chromed)=20
$995.00<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 66 &amp; 67 Track =
Pac kits=20
(complete, just like the dealer option=20
includes;<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; shroud, ducts, =
hoses,=20
cam/lifters, battery accessories) Winter/Spring 98/99.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>TOY'S:<BR>69 442's (Hot Wheels size, =
Speed=20
Rebels) Red $1.75 ea<BR>Johnny Lightning Pace Cars<BR>70 442 Pace Car =
(bronze or=20
teal)&nbsp; $3.50 ea<BR>74 Hurst/Olds Pace Car (magenta)&nbsp; $3.50 =
ea<BR>79=20
Delta 88 Pace Car (White)&nbsp; $3.50 ea</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Others:<BR>70 GTO Judge (Yellow) =
$1.75 ea&nbsp;=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Models:<BR>67 W-30 442 =
(Lindberg)&nbsp; $14.00=20
ea</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Parts Cars:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>66 Cutlass =
Post Coupe (nice=20
body, new windshield, carpet, headliner, NO drivetrain)&nbsp;=20
$800.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>66 Toronado (nice hood, good glass, TH425, some =
interior=20
parts)&nbsp; $300.00</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Odds and Ends (not Olds, but GM =
parts we have=20
laying around)<BR>70-74 Trans Am Exhaust Tips (N.O.S)&nbsp; $150.00 =
pr<BR>68-71=20
Buick GS Ram Air air cleaner assm&nbsp; $150.00<BR>70-72 Buick AM/FM =
Stereo=20
$150.00<BR>71-72 Chevelle SS Emblem Kit (complete car, N.O.S. and Repro, =

includes door<BR>panel SS N.O.S. emblems)&nbsp;=20
$140.00<BR></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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