Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1496


oldsmobile-digest     Monday, September 21 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1496



Don't break my delete key, its the only one I have!!!!! (Non-Olds)
Fwd: Trim ring...'60 Olds Dyanmic88
'60 dynamic88 trunk gasket
Re: 84's 307 struggling
Sorry for the wasted space....
Re: Unilite Conversions
Re: Rust on Toro top
RE: Coil failure and MSD ?
Oil light problem
68 400-455?
cid
Camshaft Info
Holley Intake For Sale
Available cars and parts, Mobile, Al
help...
Re: scary stuff
Did we all get booted?
help..(door)post script
'69 Olds manuals
Re: Coil failure and MSD ?
Re: SOM emissions
68 cutlass convertible parting
400 Turbo Transmissions
Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines
Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3
Re: 400 'E' block/ 425block
Rallye-Rat Update
Mail Test - Ignore
Please help Alternator or Battery
Alternator or Battery
Re: Coil failure and MSD ?
Date:	Mon, 21 Sep 1998 09:44:23 -0400
67 Cutlass Steering Parts
Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines
Re: exaust manifolds
Re: Wiper motor
RE: 82 GN's
Re: engine covers
sorry, this is a test
Did I get booted????
Test
Re: Did I get booted????
Cats on a 1965 Olds? (Was Re: ADMIN: Not Nearly Auto Related-Auto Acronyms)
Have I been thrown off list??
Re: Guage package
Re: I'm stumped - Need the Olds GURU assistance
Re: Did I get booted????
67 Wiring Question/Heater Fan
subscribe
Re: 67 Wiring Question/Heater Fan
Hurst Shifter For Sale
unsubscribe
Date:	Mon, 21 Sep 1998 13:33:30 -0500
1985 442
Re: 67 Wiring Question/Heater Fan
Re: Coil failure and MSD ?
Re: Insurance via net...
Alternator and Voltage Regulator
Fw: 67 Cutlass Steering Parts
ADMIN: List Down, Now Back...
Re: High Rev's and W's

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 15:52:22 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Don't break my delete key, its the only one I have!!!!! (Non-Olds)

> Please keep me from breaking my delete key!
> Because of late, that is all I have been using.

Did you know...

Most Windows-based mail readers will allow you, when sorted by subject, to 
click
on the top message in a thread, holding down the SHIFT key while clicking on 
the
bottom one, it will select all inbetween those two points.  Three clicks 
instead
of thirty...  Increase the mileage of your delete key, for those who are
unfamiliar with that trick.

Yes, I realize KA was mostly joking about ~breaking~ the key, but I figured I'd
mention anyways....  It's no substituted for posting responsibly, but for those
that must deal with relentlessly long threads, that can be a lifesaver.

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 17:58:54 EDT
From: SIDIALI@aol.com
Subject: Fwd: Trim ring...'60 Olds Dyanmic88

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Dear "Mike"
     I was wrong, the grooves are aprrox. 1" apart.  Tell me what address to
send the check to and how much shipping.  Sorry for the delay, but my monitor
was down.

Alex Killian
p.o. box 50035
Mobile. AL 36605
SidiAli@aol.com

- --part0_906328734_boundary
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From: Krakpott@aol.com
Return-path: <Krakpott@aol.com>
To: SIDIALI@aol.com
Subject: Re: Trim ring...'60 Olds Dyanmic88
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 20:21:51 EDT
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

Dear "Mike"
     I was wrong, the grooves are aprrox. 1" apart.  Tell me what address to
send the check to and how much shipping.  Sorry for the delay, but my monitor
is down.

Alex Killian
p.o. box 50035
Mobile. AL 36605
SidiAli@aol.com

- --part0_906328734_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 18:00:33 EDT
From: SIDIALI@aol.com
Subject: '60 dynamic88 trunk gasket

Phil
   Where do I send the check? (part tk 46-18)
Alex Killian
p.o. box 50035
Mobile, AL
36605

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 15:03:02 -0700
From: "Mike Lias" <mlias@thegrid.net>
Subject: Re: 84's 307 struggling

>Another weird occurance today, I actually got the car to burnout.
>I've spun the tires before on slick surfaces, but I actually backed
>out to the middle of our coul-de-sac, and deliberately tried to.  It
>was someone impressive, should of had someone take a picture to send
>in to John's Burnout Page.
>

What's the address for that burnout?? Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 16:44:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Sorry for the wasted space....

Hi all,
      Sorry about this...but I get no replys from anyone...just trying
to find out what's going on...if anyone gets this let me know direct
please,cause I haven't gotten one all day from the list...
            Sman




==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 20:20:34 -0400
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@pa.net>
Subject: Re: Unilite Conversions

To Joe and all the fine folk out there on the net .
I did reset my points ... it was a Mallory dual point ... and
I did it with a matchbook cover to get me home.

I will set the points with meter tomorrow. What upsets me
is that the Mallory Dual point system wore so much in just
a thousand miles.

Ken Swick
swickka@pa.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 20:28:59 -0400
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@pa.net>
Subject: Re: Rust on Toro top

Yep Joe ... POR 15 + really good prep and a properly sized patch
I like at least a 1 inch overlap some like more or less. Weld tight,
good bead ... grind / sand to feather slightly. Add skim coat at least
4 inches beyond weld ... feather in ... good primer/sealer ... paint

I did this three years ago to my pick-up. Not a sign of rust yet and
it spends a lot of time in the rain, snow and sun.

Ken Swick
swickka@pa.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 20:46:08 -0400
From: urbanch <urbanch@magi.com>
Subject: RE: Coil failure and MSD ?

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BDE4D7.CC558460
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Sounds like your plug gap is too large. This is a common cause for coils =
to go after only a short while. The coil builds up too much heat from =
having to jump a large gap.

- ----------
From: 	mitzm@earthlink.net
Sent: 	Sunday, September 20, 1998 1:51 PM
To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 	Coil failure and MSD ?


Does anybody know if the MSD boxes are hard on coils?  I've had two =
coils
crap out since I put an MSD 5 on my 70 CS about 4 years ago.  Never =
happend
before.  Since the MSD causes "multiple" (anybody know how many?) spark
discharges per  ignition it would stand to reason that coil life might =
be
shortened proportionately.

The first coil to crap out was a generic replacement.  This last one was =
an
Accel super coil, only 6 months old.  Do the MSD coils hold up better?  =
The
directions that came with the MSD 5 box make no mention of shorter coil
life or recommending the use of MSD coils.

What gives?  Is it the MSD box or something else that's killing my =
coils?
The coil seems to get really hot.  Does relocating it to the firewall =
help?

Hans in El Segundo


Mitzm@mail.earthlink.net






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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 20:47:09 EDT
From: TimLeary97@aol.com
Subject: Oil light problem

The oil pressure light switch on my 64 Cutlass was leaking so I replaced it.
The leak is fixed, but now the oil light won't go out.  the light was not lit
with the old unit.  Did I miss something when I replaced the switch, is there
some type of a reset procedure?  The engine is a 330, and I bought the new
switch at NAPA.  I'm pretty sure the oil pressure is good.  The engine was
rebuilt 15,000 miles ago, and the valve train is quiet.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 20:49:07 EDT
From: Yorcoy@aol.com
Subject: 68 400-455?

How can I tell the difference between a 1968 442 400CID and a 455CID? The cowl
tag is missing. I'm looking at a daily driver that's for sale for $3500.00. It
has new paint and decent interior. I think there is bondo in the upper fender
wells, the lip is missing. It may have been cut out for larger tires. Please
help if you can. E-MAIL me directly Yorcoy@aol.com
Thanks for your help!!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 20:54:55 -0400
From: Howie <qcquad@cuny.campuscw.net>
Subject: cid

To all;
Does the Olds 403 have guts when its worked up?
I heard that its weak and that I'm better off working up the 350.
I'm trying to decide if it would be worth it to change the CID or not.
Thanks,
Howie
71 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 20:53:48 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Camshaft Info

Fellow Oldsmobile Enthusiasts,

Just purchased a disassembled 350 engine, ready to assemble with a ton of new
parts.  The guy wrecked the car the engine was going to go in, and decided to
sell it all to me.  I will be keeping everything but the intake (next
posting), however I need some assistance identifying the camshaft:

It's in a Speed-Pro/Sealed Power box, and the number on the box is CS-176R.
"176R" is also on the end of the camshaft.

I'd like to know some more info about this cam if anyone has any experience
with it.

Thanks, and Take Care!

Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 21:03:17 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Holley Intake For Sale

Listmembers,

From the engine package I just purchased, I am offering the following intake
manifold for sale:

Holley Street Dominator for Small Block Oldsmobile -- never used, has slight
surface oxidation, otherwise like new.  You can see the surfacing marks on the
head mating surfaces that the factory put there, I also have one I used on the
stock car back in 92 (modified) and remember them from that one.  We are not
allowed to run anything but the Edelbrock Performer Olds 350 on the stock car
now, so I don't need this one.  Price is $125.00, shipping included, or trade
for an Edelbrock Performer in likewise good unmodified shape.

If interested, please e-mail me privately at ks7racing@aol.com.

Thanks, and Take Care!
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 21:29:22 EDT
From: SIDIALI@aol.com
Subject: Available cars and parts, Mobile, Al

Oldsmobile cars and parts I have found lately that could be bought:
White '63 Super88 2-dr Holiday Hardtop...original owner, needs bendix spring
to run.  looks really good, but parked a while.
White '68 Cutlass S 2-dr Holiday Hardtop 350-2v? with black bench seat
interior, also original owner.  Daily driver, needs minor body work and
repaint.
Red '64 F-85 convertible, no engine, no transmission, no seats, no tires (has
plain rims), good top, console, vac gauge, but has rust/bondo in sills
Blue '67 98 Luxury Sedan, intact 425 4-v, and all accessories. In a junkyard,
but never been parted.  Some interior trim missing
Green '70 Cutlass S 2-dr Hardtop, bench seat interior, motor/tranny unknown.
In same junkyard, also not yet scrounged.
Red '65 Cutlass 2-dr post coupe.  Had 330-4v, now unknown.  Also in a
junkyard...condition kinda poor ( This used to be my first Cutlass..sniff)
Cream '75 Delta88 4-dr Hardtop, no wheelcovers, but otherwhise looks good from
the street.
Well...good hunting.  Anyone else in this area (Between Pascagoula, Miss, and
Pensacola Fl, seen anything else?)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 22:11:49 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: help...

To All on the list

Just put in new bushings and pins on the driver side door
of my 83 cutlass. Does anyone have any suggestions about
getting the door to hang correctly again?
Tried for an hour to center it, (with help) .

I'm not hung very well.

Kevin White
83 CSB, FE3X clone
86 CS

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 21:53:00 -0700
From: steven@purplemonkey.com (Steven Saraceno)
Subject: Re: scary stuff

I would be living in the Oldsmobile right now.

Steven

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 22:50:20 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Did we all get booted?

Hmmm.  Not a single Olds post all afternoon....

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 23:07:03 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: help..(door)post script

Before any one asks, yes I did mark the location of the hinges
on both the door and the post.

Kevin White

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2005 21:50:30 -0400
From: Gary Standiford <phred@fwi.com>
Subject: '69 Olds manuals

I joined the list a few weeks ago and have enjoyed it very much.

Just wanted to let anyone with a '69 know that I have a chassis service
manual, Fisher body manual, and a wiring diagram manual (442/S/F-85
only). If you want info from  one of the manuals, e-mail me direct at
phred@fwi.com. I'll get back to you as soon as I can.

btw, I'm from Fort Wayne, Indiana. cya.

'69 Cutlass S convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 23:31:50 EDT
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: Coil failure and MSD ?

In a message dated 98-09-20 13:47:29 EDT, you write:

<< Does anybody know if the MSD boxes are hard on coils?  I've had two coils
 crap out since I put an MSD 5 on my 70 CS about 4 years ago.  Never happend
 before.  Since the MSD causes "multiple" (anybody know how many?) spark
 discharges per  ignition it would stand to reason that coil life might be
 shortened proportionately.

 The first coil to crap out was a generic replacement.  This last one was an
 Accel super coil, only 6 months old.  Do the MSD coils hold up better?  The
 directions that came with the MSD 5 box make no mention of shorter coil
 life or recommending the use of MSD coils.

 What gives?  Is it the MSD box or something else that's killing my coils?
 The coil seems to get really hot.  Does relocating it to the firewall help?
>>
I have had a msd 6a on both cars over 6 years both with accel super coils and
i never had a problem. One is in the top of the cap and the other is mounted
on a bracket close the the intake.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 21:37:00 -0700
From: "Mike Jones" <mike@gleep.com>
Subject: Re: SOM emissions

> OLDS related:
> Five hours of labor.
> $45 or less out of pocket and SOM has a new/old singlr exhaust so solid I
can
> leave the dual project until the spring.
>
> PLEASE create a new subject heading if you reply to this.
> If you know a workaround to the law about adding/removing cats, please
contact
> me or post. I am gonna try to access the exact wordage online or at the
> library, where they got losa stuff like this.
>
> It IS my intention to put dual cats on my 1965 car unless I am absolutely
> stonewalled by that federal law. (No workarounds).
>
> Thanks much
> SOM
> &KA
>

Out here in California (SF bay area, currently basic testing area, check
visual/functional/emissions at 2 speeds: idle and 2500 rpm) You have to
replace like with like.  Cannot change the # of catalysts on the car (this
used to be doable, the BAR would waive you through but SMOG II changed
that).  Had no problem ADDING catalysts to a non-catalyst car, however.
Car Craft had to add dual catalysts to a '71 Camaro for it to pass the
VISUAL aspect of the test, even though they were not needed (this was
before SB-42 which exempted '73-older vehicles).

I would see no problem physically adding the converters to the car, heard
you can still do this in Arizona about a year or so ago.  I would worry
about the heat generated by the catalysts however.  Installing some heat
shields and/or some insulation in the floorpan of the car would help a
little.

FYI: There are 3 "Testing Areas" in California currently.  Basic, Advanced,
and Non-attainment counties.

Advanced testing areas utilize dynos to test HC/CO/NOx/O2/CO2 under a
loaded condition.

Basic testing areas utilize 2 speed testing (idle/2500 rpm) and test for
HC/CO

Non-attainment counties are counties that have low populations or are in
very rural areas.  These counties you only smog your vehicle upon
transfer-of-ownership, and when the smog test is needed, it is performed as
if your vehicle were registered in a Basic testing area (I.E. my father
sells his '85 Ford Ranger truck, he needs a smog check.  He has not had a
smog check in 4 years, due to the low population of Calaveras County
(population 32k).

This is where my '78 Delta 88 is registered :)  I have recieved no
notification of the address change being finalized, I was told by my father
that I will just recieve my registration bill up at his house (and will see
then if the car is really "exempt" from smog testing, since this is the
only way I can avoid $30 smog checks every 2 years, even though I do intend
to leave all the smog equipment on my vehicle, I just believe it is dumb to
not be able to modify an emissions system by adding another catalyst to a
car which would have been modified in a way that it would have needed it).

Mike Jones
'78 Delta 88 (350/TH350, almost 100k!)
'90 Custom Cruiser (307/TH200-4R)



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 00:02:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: tommr@webtv.net (tom m)
Subject: 68 cutlass convertible parting



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 23:16:52 -0500
From: Tom Williams <tjwilli@megavision.com>
Subject: 400 Turbo Transmissions

I am putting a 455 into a 70 Cutlass Supreme that had a 350 in it. I
picked up a 75 455 and also a 400 turbo transmission with the short
shaft. I have never done one of these switches before but was always
told you had to shorten the drive shaft when you put in a 400 turbo
tranny. I am just curious with the short shaft 400 turbo if this will
eliminate the headace of shortening the drive shaft?
Thanks for any and all answers.

Tom Williams
Columbus, NE
70 CS

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 23:30:51 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines

Along this same thread - what constitutes the differences between these 400
castings (66-67) and the 68 big block casting?

Lisa Madsen
__________

Lisa, which 68 big block?  The 68 G-block 400 had an even smaller bore than
the early 400 (3.870 vs 4.000) and used the 4.25 stroke 455 crank to make
up the difference.

As an interesting side note to this whole thread, if you drop the late
400/455 crank (4.25 stroke) into the early E-block 400 block (4.000 bore),
you get a 427 Olds.  If you go 0.060 over, you get a 440 (unfortunately,
you need a custom set of 4.066 pistons to get it to 442 cu in).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 23:05:58 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3

Lou, does not overlap occur at TDC, when neither lobe is up?  This would
yield closed valves.  Peter (More than once wrong, willing to stand
corrected) .
___________

Sorry Peter, but Lou is correct.  Overlap is the term applied to the period
when both valves are open; the intake valve starts to open as the exhaust
is closing.  This does occur aroundTDC, but on the exhaust stroke, not the
compression stroke.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Sep 1998 23:17:19 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 400 'E' block/ 425block

Since they couldn't put the 425
into the 442, wouldn't the cheapest and easiest (read GM Corp) way be to
just
lightly modify an existing block? Take a 425 block and leave a little extra
meat in the cylinder liner?
__________

Well, 0.125" on the bore would be a lot of extra material to leave in the
rough casting.  When you consider the extra material costs (small) and the
extra machining time (relatively large, including extra wear and tear on
the machine tools), I'd be willing to bet that it was cheaper to have two
block castings than to machine every 425 block the extra 0.125".  The
design work, which was quite small, only needed to be done once, so this
non-recurring cost was amortized over hundreds of thousands of motors.  The
extra machining costs would be incurred on every 425.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 00:45:38 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Rallye-Rat Update

Some may remember my comments about a local guy's Rallye 350, beautifully
restored, except for the 427 under the hood.  You can see it at the bottom of
this page: http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/show2.htm
The guy also had a 71 big block monte carlo SS, another bowtie of some sort, 
and
a mid 60's GTO.  All immaculate.  He says he'd always loved the BOPs, but had
mostly bowties to show.  I'd given him a hard time once or twice, seems he'd 
had
a GNX at some point in time, too.

Well, got news today about him.  Some may recall my sightings of a faked GSX
nearby, true GS, but faked into a GSX.  Turns out this guy dumped his two
bowties for this GSX and a 70-W30.  Too cool.  I'll be keeping my eyes open for
a chance to tour his garage.  I guess it's as immaculate as his cars.  Black 
and
white checkerboard tiles, full glossed, like a tv show.  Carpet under tires and
engines, just perfect.

Another bowtie guy converted!!!  :)

BTW, the reason for the Rallye Rat:  He rescued it from a junkyard, and had the
engine already.  I'll let that slide...  Especially with his new 
acquisitions...



- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 07:10:09 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Mail Test - Ignore

No mail from the list for the past 12 hours.   So this is just a test to
see what's up.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 07:31:59 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Please help Alternator or Battery

 Over the weekend my 94 Cav was going  crazy again.  I had my car in park
and the speedometer was going up and down.  It went from 0 to 100 and back
to 0.  And this is with the car in park.  The emergency break idiot light
was on along with the ABS idiot light too. I shut the car off and now it
want start.  Can anyone please tell me what the problem might be?



======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
21 Wins 13 Losses 1Tie
======================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 08:09:48 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Alternator or Battery

Over the weekend my 94 Cav was going  crazy again.  I had my car in park and
the speedometer was going up and down.  It went from 0 to 100 and back to 0.
And this is with the car in park.  The emergency break idiot light was on
along with the ABS idiot light too. I shut the car off and now it want
start.  Can anyone please tell me what the problem might be?

======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
21 Wins 13 Losses 1Tie
======================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 08:30:38 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: Coil failure and MSD ?

I think it puts out 6 sparks per cycle.  Are you running an external
condenser? Are you running a balast-resistor? I think you should eliminate
both of these.  Not too sure about the MSD 5.  Where is your coil located?
>Brett

- -----Original Message-----
From: mitzm@earthlink.net <mitzm@earthlink.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, September 20, 1998 12:41 PM
Subject: Coil failure and MSD ?


>
>Does anybody know if the MSD boxes are hard on coils?  I've had two coils
>crap out since I put an MSD 5 on my 70 CS about 4 years ago.  Never happend
>before.  Since the MSD causes "multiple" (anybody know how many?) spark
>discharges per  ignition it would stand to reason that coil life might be
>shortened proportionately.
>
>The first coil to crap out was a generic replacement.  This last one was an
>Accel super coil, only 6 months old.  Do the MSD coils hold up better?  The
>directions that came with the MSD 5 box make no mention of shorter coil
>life or recommending the use of MSD coils.
>
>What gives?  Is it the MSD box or something else that's killing my coils?
>The coil seems to get really hot.  Does relocating it to the firewall help?
>
>Hans in El Segundo
>
>
>Mitzm@mail.earthlink.net
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 09:44:23 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Date:	Mon, 21 Sep 1998 09:44:23 -0400

I haven't recieved any E mails from the list in the past 24 hours
Can someone tell me if there is a problem or not
You better E me private, atleast I know that it is working

Thanks All

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 08:40:20 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: 67 Cutlass Steering Parts

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0078_01BDE53B.77654A80
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

This last week I have tried to find parts for my front-end.  I wanted =
outer and inner tie-rods on both sides, a pitman arm, and a center =
(drag) link.
I found the inner and outer tie rods at A-line (moog) they where about =
$40 for the outer(each) and $23 for the inner (each).  the pitman arm =
was about $35.  They (A-line) could not get the factory 13/16" =
center-link.
Rare parts is the only place I can find it and they want about $150 for =
one.
Fusick I think has one for $175.  PST actually make it and they sell it =
for $175 also.  Should this cost this much? $150 for tie-rods and pitman =
arm,$150 for center-link.  $300 for the front end and that doesn't even =
include bushings or ball joints.  Sounds a little pricey for me.   BTW =
the center link for a 78-8? center link is only $45. or less.

>Brett Wilson   =20
67 Cutlass Convertible
www.froadin.com/images/brett/images
My site will be up soon>>>>>>oldsracing.com!


- ------=_NextPart_000_0078_01BDE53B.77654A80
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>This last week I have tried to find parts for my front-end.&nbsp; I =
wanted=20
outer and inner tie-rods on both sides, a pitman arm, and a center =
(drag)=20
link.</DIV>
<DIV>I found the inner and outer tie rods at A-line (moog) they where =
about $40=20
for the outer(each) and $23 for the inner (each).&nbsp; the pitman arm =
was about=20
$35.&nbsp; They (A-line) could not get the factory 13/16&quot;=20
center-link.</DIV>
<DIV>Rare parts is the only place I can find it and they want about $150 =
for=20
one.</DIV>
<DIV>Fusick I think has one for $175.&nbsp; PST actually make it and =
they sell=20
it for $175 also.&nbsp; Should this cost this much? $150 for tie-rods =
and pitman=20
arm,$150 for center-link.&nbsp; $300 for the front end and that doesn't =
even=20
include bushings or ball joints.&nbsp; Sounds a little pricey for=20
me.&nbsp;&nbsp; BTW the center link for a 78-8? center link is only $45. =
or=20
less.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&gt;Brett Wilson&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>67 Cutlass Convertible</DIV>
<DIV><A=20
href=3D"http://www.froadin.com/images/brett/images">www.froadin.com/image=
s/brett/images</A></DIV>
<DIV>My site will be up =
soon&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;oldsracing.com!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0078_01BDE53B.77654A80--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 09:51:43 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines

In a message dated 98-09-19 22:22:55 EDT, you write:

<< Some folks say that it's easy to take the 400 'E' block out to 425 by
boring as this is exactly what the factory did to make a 425. Same block and
crank, bigger pistons. >>

Technically this is wrong.

Unfortunately the great book "Setting the Pace" says this or something similar
about several changes to larger displacements when it just ain't so. It says
exactly that about the 371 "bored out" to the 394!

Fortunately, the 403 is not a "bored out" whatever.....

Yes, the block is exactly the same size and all of the same externals and many
internals WILL fit. This includes crank, bumpstick, timing chains and
gears.....

I cannot say that it is "safe" to bore the 400 out that much as I have no such
information on water jacket sizing.

However, if you have the right crank, rods, and piston for a 425, go to a
yarde and pick up a 455 block (which IS EXACTLY the same as the 425 block),
put those parts inside and you WILL have a 425!

You have a 400, and it would be (frankly) a shame to bore it out ANY further
than necessary.

Thus my earlier posting that you should get the "right" pistons. I know they
are NOT cheap. But you know.... some things MUST be done right. A properlyy
built Olds motor will give you so many years of enjoyment that you will look
back and laugh at the notion of excessively boring out the 400 for a few
forged pistons.

Honestly, forged 425 pistons should make for an even swap for OEM *or* 0.030"
over 400 pistons (that are not forged). Hell, make a good enough deal and you
could get money back!

Another hallucination from...

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 09:51:44 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: exaust manifolds

In a message dated 98-09-20 03:08:15 EDT, you write:

<< remanufacturing the "W" and "X" type exaust manifolds? >>

These have been available for some time.

The person to contact is Jim Cermack.

chermac@exis.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 09:51:45 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Wiper motor

In a message dated 98-09-18 14:14:02 EDT, you write:

<< >Actually the initial prob was no soft parts avail to replace the rubber
 >bellows-pump that actually pumped the fluid....
 GM dealers used to keep these on hand for repairs to non-working washer
pumps.
 Since this design was used up until very recently, they should have the kits
 available.  Dealers were the only source at one time, so I don't know of any
 other possibilities. >>

Actually, the USA Parts Supply joint had these in a rebuild kit..... until a
month before I called!
Discontinued!


SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 08:05:30 -0600
From: Arnold Alvin TSgt <ARNOLDA@SCHRIEVER.af.mil>
Subject: RE: 82 GN's

  I assume the car was built, but I have never seen one personally.  As for
$7,500 I believe that price is unreal even for a convertible.  I assume
someone would love to have the car, but imagine for a moment which bank
would possibly loan out that amount.

Louie

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Socalolds@aol.com [SMTP:Socalolds@aol.com]
> Sent:	Saturday, September 19, 1998 12:17 AM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Re: 82 GN's
>
> Louie,
> Have you ever run across an 81 t-type conv. I met a older couple at a
> farmers
> market where our club was showing their cars. She said she was the
> original
> owner of this car and she was thinking of selling it. They were thinking
> of
> asking $7,500. The car had been sitting for 6 years and needed belts
> ,hoses
> etc. and  they had no need for it anymore. She said the factory made 10 of
> them. Whats your thoughts? I did not get her number but she was going to
> advertise it in the local auto trader.
> Dennis

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 09:17:29 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: engine covers

> >Are we talking about the same thing here?
>
> Sounds like you're both talking about the valley pan......it's used to keep

Okay Guys, as far as I understand, everybody had responses to the valley
pan. What I was originally talking about in my post was little tin covers
over the cam on the block in between the lifters. Those tin covers screw
on to the top of the block! And my block shows the threads for this
thing. Any idea what that is good for???

George

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 10:31:09 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: sorry, this is a test

hello?
- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 10:34:46 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Did I get booted????

I was wondering why I hadn't gotten any Olds mail for a while. Then,
just for kicks, I subs*ribed again. It said succeded. I ran a test
through, it worked. What happened Greg?
- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 11:00:22 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Test

Not receiving any Olds list e-mail.  Just testing...

Jason Adcock
E-mail: rocketolds@vt.edu
Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 07:58:04 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Did I get booted????

is any one still here?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
To: Oldsmobile List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 7:30 AM
Subject: Did I get booted????


>I was wondering why I hadn't gotten any Olds mail for a while. Then,
>just for kicks, I subs*ribed again. It said succeded. I ran a test
>through, it worked. What happened Greg?
>--
>*************
>Matt Cremean
>mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
>+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
>1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
>1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
>1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
>1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
>+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
>http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
>**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 08:18:35 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Cats on a 1965 Olds? (Was Re: ADMIN: Not Nearly Auto Related-Auto
Acronyms)

> It IS my intention to put dual cats on my 1965 car unless I am
> absolutely stonewalled by that federal law. (No workarounds).

Why do you want to add cats? Unless I misunderstand the law somewhere,
nobody is requiring you to add cats to a car that didn't have them in
the first place...? I mean, you still have the original vintage 1965
engine and all, don't you?

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 11:25:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: Christopher Casteel <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Have I been thrown off list??

Havn't gotten an e-mail in the last couple of days. Server down? Or have I
been thrown off?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 08:33:19 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Guage package

> No, sorry to be unclear.  I have aftermarket gauges in the car now.
> I have a Olds "gauge package" dash cluster assembly compilation
> integration group pack flock gander thing,

Ah, yes, that's usually referred to as the DCACIGPFGT for short.  :-)

> that I want to swap in in place of the basic speedo, fuel guage,
> shift indicator cluster.  I'll be replacing the mechanical
> Autometers.

Okay, fine. Somebody here (Yo! Raise your hand, please!) has the
instructions on which wires you need to swap around in the two large
connector packs you will find in the dash when you remove the old
cluster. At that point you then install your gauge package DCACIGPFGT,
put it all back together, find the wires in the engine harness which
used to go to the Oil Pressure and Temp idiot light switches, replace
those switches with sending units, hook up the wires and you're done.

As for exactly which sending units to buy, the only issue is really
whether the voltage range of the sending unit produces the correct
reading on the gauge. So buy the sending units as if you were putting
them in an Olds engine (i.e. as opposed to whatever engine you really
have) just to be sure. Physically, the threads should match the engine
openings just fine; at worst, you might need an adaptor collar or
something like that.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 08:40:49 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: I'm stumped - Need the Olds GURU assistance

> When lights are on gauge drops...  I have replaced the alternator,
> the voltage regulator and thought I would replace the battery.

Is this the firewall-mounted external regulator? What kind of
replacement did you get? It still sounds to me like the regulator
is flaky. My brother-in-law went through two aftermarket ones on
his '67 before finally paying slightly bigger bucks for a genuine
AC-Delco, which worked like a charm...

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 12:20:27 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Did I get booted????

Kerry Kroger wrote:
>
> is any one still here?

I am. Anybody else???

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 12:04:39 -0500
From: "David Popadic" <davepop@execpc.com>
Subject: 67 Wiring Question/Heater Fan

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Question.  My blower for the heater/ac will not work on high.  It works =
fine on the two lower setting.  So I decided to poke around under the =
dash and found a orange wire that was not connected.  I searched and =
could not find where (if anywhere) it should be.  Could this be my =
problem or could it be the switch in the dash going out?  The car is a =
1967 Cutlass with A/C.

Thanks in advance!
Dave


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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Question.&nbsp; My blower for the =
heater/ac will=20
not work on high.&nbsp; It works fine on the two lower setting.&nbsp; So =
I=20
decided to poke around under the dash and found a orange wire that was =
not=20
connected.&nbsp; I searched and could not find where (if anywhere) it =
should=20
be.&nbsp; Could this be my problem or could it be the switch in the dash =
going=20
out?&nbsp; The car is a 1967 Cutlass with A/C.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks in advance!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Dave</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDE558.026B2160--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 13:36:13 EDT
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: subscribe

k

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 10:23:55 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: 67 Wiring Question/Heater Fan

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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the orange wire is usually used for accessories under the hood is =
usually a fuse holder on the passenger side of the firewall if the fuse =
goes out the high blower is all that is affected look for this .......kk
- -----Original Message-----
    From: David Popadic <davepop@execpc.com>
    To: Olds Email List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
    Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 10:07 AM
    Subject: 67 Wiring Question/Heater Fan
   =20
   =20
    Question.  My blower for the heater/ac will not work on high.  It =
works fine on the two lower setting.  So I decided to poke around under =
the dash and found a orange wire that was not connected.  I searched and =
could not find where (if anywhere) it should be.  Could this be my =
problem or could it be the switch in the dash going out?  The car is a =
1967 Cutlass with A/C.
    =20
    Thanks in advance!
    Dave
    =20

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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>the orange wire is usually used for =
accessories=20
under the hood is usually a fuse holder on the passenger side of the =
firewall if=20
the fuse goes out the high blower is all that is affected look for this=20
.......kk</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>David Popadic &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:davepop@execpc.com">davepop@execpc.com</A>&gt;<BR><B>To:=20
    </B>Olds Email List &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Monday, September 21, 1998 10:07 AM<BR><B>Subject: </B>67 Wiring =

    Question/Heater Fan<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Question.&nbsp; My blower for =
the heater/ac=20
    will not work on high.&nbsp; It works fine on the two lower =
setting.&nbsp;=20
    So I decided to poke around under the dash and found a orange wire =
that was=20
    not connected.&nbsp; I searched and could not find where (if =
anywhere) it=20
    should be.&nbsp; Could this be my problem or could it be the switch =
in the=20
    dash going out?&nbsp; The car is a 1967 Cutlass with =
A/C.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks in advance!</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Dave</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 13:56:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Nathyn M. Knipe" <nmknipe@mailbox.syr.edu>
Subject: Hurst Shifter For Sale

I have a Hurst Quater Stick for a TH350 transmission, and i would imagine
it would fit a TH400 also....i have everything for it including an
aluminum cover for it too....make offer....Nathyn  email me personnaly at
nmknipe@syr.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 12:59:34 -0500
From: Gregg Buffington <proheat@chibardun.net>
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 13:33:30 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Date:	Mon, 21 Sep 1998 13:33:30 -0500

This is a test
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
21 Wins 13 Losses 1Tie
======================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 14:47:19 -0400
From: "FRANK MONTERO" <parc@erols.com>
Subject: 1985 442

Hello,
    My name is Frank. I recently purchased a 1985 442, white w/gray bottom.
It has a 307 engine and a 200 4r rear. The car has 119,000 miles. The
exterior of this car is mint.....perfect condition. The interior has only 1
defect the whole middle console has to be replaced and the car would be
immaculate. Everything in the vehicle is stock except for the tires and rims
which are custom and the sound system. By the way it's
a T-top. The interior is blue. I would like to know in this condition if you
would be able to give me a book value for the car. I already got one but a
second opinion is always good.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 11:45:27 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 67 Wiring Question/Heater Fan

> My blower for the heater/ac will not work on high.  It works fine
> on the two lower setting.  So I decided to poke around under the
> dash and found a orange wire that was not connected.  I searched
> and could not find where (if anywhere) it should be.  Could this
> be my problem

No way. You just found a leftover accessory circuit wire. (Actually
that's a battery circuit, if you found that it's hot at all times.)
Skip it.

> or could it be the switch in the dash going out?

Doubtful. If this is similar to the wiring on later models, say
around 1970 and up, the high speed is controlled by a bypass relay
mounted under the hood on or near the A/C evaporator housing. The
power supply wire going to the relay tends to melt an in-line
connector in that circuit. As someone else said, there may also
be an in-line fuse in that same area that's blown. Check under the
hood.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 14:51:01 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Coil failure and MSD ?

Hans,

    The MSD website is  http://www.msdignition.com .  There's an e-mail
link in
the troubleshooting section.  You might try throwing your problem their
way to
see what they say.  I'd be interested to know what you find out because
I've
been thinking of installing the MSD 6 in my car.  I already have the MSD
Blaster 2 coil. I do know this.  Heat is bad on a coil.  I'd try moving
it to
the firewall.  You don't need external heat adding to the problem of
internal
heat. Just a thought.

    The MSD 6 produces about 6 sparks at idle and low speeds. As the
engine
speeds up the number of sparks decreases because there is less time for
the
coil to charge. I assume the MSD 5 has similar characteristics.

    The paperwork that came with my MSD Blaster 2 coil specifies using
the
supplied ballast resistor if using the MSD 5.  However, if you retained
the
stock resistance wire in your installation it should not be necessary.
E-mail
MSD for confirmation.

    Hope this helps,

    Thomas P. Smith
    1971 Cutlass S 350

mitzm@earthlink.net wrote:

> Does anybody know if the MSD boxes are hard on coils?  I've had two coils
> crap out since I put an MSD 5 on my 70 CS about 4 years ago.  Never happend
> before.  Since the MSD causes "multiple" (anybody know how many?) spark
> discharges per  ignition it would stand to reason that coil life might be
> shortened proportionately.
>
> The first coil to crap out was a generic replacement.  This last one was an
> Accel super coil, only 6 months old.  Do the MSD coils hold up better?  The
> directions that came with the MSD 5 box make no mention of shorter coil
> life or recommending the use of MSD coils.
>
> What gives?  Is it the MSD box or something else that's killing my coils?
> The coil seems to get really hot.  Does relocating it to the firewall help?
>
> Hans in El Segundo
>
> Mitzm@mail.earthlink.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:05:14 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Insurance via net...

Been there done that. Gieco is not cheap!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 14:57:48 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Alternator and Voltage Regulator

Afternoon, Rocket Drivers:

    Got a few quick questions.  The alternator code for my car ('71
Cutlass S 350) is "DN."  Anybody know the amperage rating for that?
Next, I don't know if the alternator is original.
Where would I look and what would the numbers be to make that
determination?

    Has anyone tried, or have knowledge about the quality of the
solid-state external voltage regulator replacements that J.C Whitney
sells?  When time comes to replace that, the solid-state sounds like a
neat way to go.

    Thanks for the input,

    Thomas P. Smith
    1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 14:06:09 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Fw: 67 Cutlass Steering Parts

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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This last week I have tried to find parts for my front-end.  I wanted =
outer and inner tie-rods on both sides, a pitman arm, and a center =
(drag) link.
I found the inner and outer tie rods at A-line (moog) they where about =
$40 for the outer(each) and $23 for the inner (each).  the pitman arm =
was about $35.  They (A-line) could not get the factory 13/16" =
center-link.
Rare parts is the only place I can find it and they want about $150 for =
one.
Fusick I think has one for $175.  PST actually make it and they sell it =
for $175 also.  Should this cost this much? $150 for tie-rods and pitman =
arm,$150 for center-link.  $300 for the front end and that doesn't even =
include bushings or ball joints.  Sounds a little pricey for me.   BTW =
the center link for a 78-8? center link is only $45. or less.

>Brett Wilson   =20
67 Cutlass Convertible
www.froadin.com/images/brett/images
My site will be up soon>>>>>>oldsracing.com!


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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><BR></DIV></FONT>
<DIV>This last week I have tried to find parts for my front-end.&nbsp; I =
wanted=20
outer and inner tie-rods on both sides, a pitman arm, and a center =
(drag)=20
link.</DIV>
<DIV>I found the inner and outer tie rods at A-line (moog) they where =
about $40=20
for the outer(each) and $23 for the inner (each).&nbsp; the pitman arm =
was about=20
$35.&nbsp; They (A-line) could not get the factory 13/16&quot;=20
center-link.</DIV>
<DIV>Rare parts is the only place I can find it and they want about $150 =
for=20
one.</DIV>
<DIV>Fusick I think has one for $175.&nbsp; PST actually make it and =
they sell=20
it for $175 also.&nbsp; Should this cost this much? $150 for tie-rods =
and pitman=20
arm,$150 for center-link.&nbsp; $300 for the front end and that doesn't =
even=20
include bushings or ball joints.&nbsp; Sounds a little pricey for=20
me.&nbsp;&nbsp; BTW the center link for a 78-8? center link is only $45. =
or=20
less.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&gt;Brett Wilson&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>67 Cutlass Convertible</DIV>
<DIV><A=20
href=3D"http://www.froadin.com/images/brett/images">www.froadin.com/image=
s/brett/images</A></DIV>
<DIV>My site will be up =
soon&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;oldsracing.com!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 16:32:57 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: ADMIN: List Down, Now Back...

Sometime yesterday (Sunday) Chebucto suffered a system failure that
resulted in the Olds list membership file being corrupted. As a result the
list was down until a backup copy was restored this afternoon.

The last good backup was from Sept. 16th, so it is possible that you may
once again be receiving Olds mail even if you uns*bscribed since last
Wednesday. If so please mail me directly and I'll take your address off
the list.

Any posts made from approx. midday Sunday to midday Monday likely never
made it to the list since all were treated as non-member posts and
bounced. Digest member posts were not affected by this as far as I am
aware.

Sorry for the disruption in service and please let me know if anyone is
still experiencing problems.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 14:34:02 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: High Rev's and W's

Scott,
Got to get a tach. Used to drive a vette around with 4.56 in it, city and
highways with no ill effects. Use a good oil and change every 3000. You
will get used to the noise but paying for the gas, thats another deal. 60
mph was about 3500 revs'.
Lou Biggs
- ----------
> From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Fwd: High Rev's and W's
> Date: Saturday, September 19, 1998 9:08 PM
>
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1496
*********************************
