Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1439


oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, August 20 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1439



Re: Headlight high beams
Edelbrock Aluminum Olds Heads for Sale
Re: UNBOUNCE: ISO '68 Delta Convert Weatherstrip
Re: Attention all 81-88 "G" body members.
Re: A/C Hose Insulation Source?
OPB drags
just stuff... signing off
Re: ISO Left Disk Brake Spindle
Re: Repro ram air hoods
Re: Gas Tank Installation
Re: '70 Restoration Question
RE: shocks / restore headers / gold
Re: '70 Restoration Question
BB heads NEEDED FAST!!!
Need H*LP with 455 rebuild!!!
Re: Need H*LP with 455 rebuild!!!
Re:  442 governor
Pin-on hood trick
Re: Octane Question
Fwd: Bumper Stickers
Re: BB heads NEEDED FAST!!!
Re: Valve Adjustment Question
Re: BB heads NEEDED FAST!!!
Re: BB heads NEEDED FAST!!!
UNBOUNCE: just stuff... signing off
UNBOUNCE: Saddleman seat covers
Re: UNBOUNCE: just stuff... signing off
Joliet race track
Re: Re: Gas Tank Installation
Olds Wheels
Racing Equipment Free Catalog
To the gearheads
Re: to everyone
RE: To the gearheads
Need Help Tuning Q-Jet
Re: '70 Restoration Question
Re: To the gearheads
Re: '70 Restoration Question
Re: To the gearheads
RE: '70 Restoration Question
Re: '70 Restoration Question
O.A.I./Harness Hold-Downs
Re: '70 Restoration Question
RE: O.A.I./Harness Hold-Downs
Racing Equipment Free Catalog
Car Transports
Re: O.A.I./Harness Hold-Downs
Speaking of + Battery Cable....
Re: Speaking of + Battery Cable....
Anecdotes: Vaccuum Booster for Power Brakes
'70 455 Intake Gasket
Performer package - push rod noise?
rpm on H/O (83-84)
Ignition swapping
Signing Off for a Coupla Weeks
Re: '70 455 Intake Gasket
Re: Signing Off for a Coupla Weeks
Re: Anecdotes: Vaccuum Booster for Power Brakes
Re: Ignition swapping

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 20:42:38 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Headlight high beams

> > My low beams work just fine. When I hit the floor dimmer to bring
> high beams,
> > ALL headlights go out !

Couple things come to mind.  One, it could be a open circuit somewhere in the
high beam circuit, a broken wire or loose connection somewhere.  ~OR~ it could
be something complexly simple (nice word, eh?) like burned out elements.  It's
fully possible to have both high beam (inner) lamps burned out, and the high
beam ~elements~ of the outer lamps burned out as well, while the low beam
(outer) elements are still OK.  If the lamps are all the same age, and the car
saw most of it's life with high beams on, it's quite likely all four would die
within a few weeks of each other.  Try using a voltmeter or testlight at the
headlight plugs.  This will tell you more accurately what's going on.


- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 22:54:43 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Edelbrock Aluminum Olds Heads for Sale

Thought somebody might be interested:

I found out today that Dick Miller Racing has got a pair of the long
awaited Edelbrock Aluminum Olds Heads for sale @ $1499.  They come
pre-assembled with valves, springs etc.

Dick's tel # is:  901-794-2834
& his e-mail is:  dmracing1@aol.com

jp

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 22:55:18 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: ISO '68 Delta Convert Weatherstrip

JonKrisInc@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 98-08-18 22:37:31 EDT, you write:
>
> << I'm presently restoring my Delta 88 convertable and I am having trouble
>  find weather stripping for the windows and doors. Can anyone help?
>  Is there a  catalog for such parts?
>   >>
>
I bought weather stripping for my Cutlass from Brothers..I don't know if
they only do Cutlass or full size as well. I do remember they had a
pretty wide selection of stuff.  THeir phone # is (816) 662-2060

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 23:06:27 -0400
From: Stephen Palomba <spalomba@IDT.NET>
Subject: Re: Attention all 81-88 "G" body members.

Stephen Palomba wrote:
>
> JJP442@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > This trunk of yours has peaked my interest. What's it worth to ya?I'm from
> > Queens, got parents in Suffolk am there quite often.
> > Please E-mail $ Direct
> > JJP442@aol.com
> > Thanks
> Hi,
>	I Finally got my phone line fixed. It got zapped in a Thunder storm 
the other
day. Lucky I had my PC unplugged from power and phone line at the time.

	Anywho I believe there was someone who was interested in the NOS deck
lid I have for the 81-88 G body cutlass/442. I believe it was
JJP442@aol.com. I'm not sure if I missed any mail and also not sure if I
was able to e-mail directly to JJP442. Just got the latest e-mail and I
didn't see any posts from JJP442@aol.com .

	If anyone knows who jjP442 is let me know.

TIA
>
> Stephen Palomba (spalomba@idt.net)
> 65 cutlass
> 65 Vista Cruiser
> 72 cutlass convert

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 22:30:26 +0300
From: john schiffman <joschiff@flash.net>
Subject: Re: A/C Hose Insulation Source?

Try a company in Fort Worth Texas called "Old Air Products"
(www.oldairproducts.com) for the foam they use on their custom a/c parts
for chevy and olds.  I had them make a "muffler" for my '69 442 with
good results.

The black rubber looks to me a lot like the standard copper pipe
insulation you will find a a home improvement center/hardware store.
Armourflex and others.

Good luck.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 20:38:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: jalkara <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: OPB drags

any puget sound oldsers going to the olds,poncho, bu-ick drags at
bremerton raceway on sat 22?
47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 00:11:44, -0500
From: GQPR12E@prodigy.com ( CLAYTON PIERCE)
Subject: just stuff... signing off

Hello all...

Well to those who I've shared my recent poncho problems with off list.
.. I'll say that the radiator fix worked and I'm driving the '65
again.

I'm almost done working out my notice where I've quit here at Prodigy.
.. so as of midnight tomorrow... this address will not work.  I will
be unsubbing from the list for a while (will still be on digest only
at my ETSU address).  Also ETSU will be closed to prepare for the
coming semester until the end of the month so I will only be able to
check my mail there rarely by telnetting from my parent's house (an
hour away)... basically I'll be without mail.  If you need to contact
me... I have no problems with you calling my phone number (423) 434-
4294.  Or you can still write me at this Prodigy address until
midnight tomorrow (8/20).

Some real quick news... am VERY seriously considering purchasing 2
1964 Oldsmobile Dynamic 88's.  1 is a one-owner car w/ 150k + miles
on it... mostly rust free with a bit of light body damage... very
very nice chrome and bumpers... nice interior with good seat covers
and carpet still... no cracks on dash.  trunk lid has some rust...
1/4s and floorpans are very solid.  Other is parts car... straight
rust free body except for damage to d-side fender/bumper.  interior
pretty nice... a/c car... both are 394 1bbl cars (breather says super
high compression... anybody got a 4bbl intake?) both motors look good
and oil is clean.  Parts car has no tranny... assuming it is in the 1
owner car... fluid in it looks VERY clean.  1 owner car hasn't been
driven since late 80's but has been stored correctly up on blocks.
Parts car hasn't been driven in gawd knows how long... Both are the
exact same baby-blue in color with the exact same blue interior.
Asking $400 for both plus a rear end collision '82 Cutlass w/ good
307... very good interior and decent body (except trunk and 1/4's)...
am going to offer $200 for both '64's... I think they will take it...


Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 00:18:59 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: ISO Left Disk Brake Spindle

Greg

        I have a single LH spindle for disc brakes. How's $25.00 plus
shipping sound?

Jim C

At 10:09 PM 8/19/1998 -0300, you wrote:
>
>I know it's a longshot, but someone here is looking for only the left
>disk brake spindle from a '68-'72 A-body. Anybody have one they want to
>sell, mail me direct. Thanks!
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 21:28:26 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Repro ram air hoods

JM wrote:

> ---Most repro hoods are made of "race glass", meaning very thin
> constuction,to make it lighter still for racing.Also, MOST of them
> don't allow you to utilize the factory latching mech. and/or hood
> springs.
>    Ever notice those guys with the wood stick for a hood prop? Really
> bugs me to see someone put alot of $$$ into a car and prop the hood
> with a stick!!
>                John
> ==

  I agree, very tacky indeed!  Someone should enlighten these guys (no pun
intended) about using a spring with less tension (i.e. screen door spring,
etc.).  This will allow the use of stock hinges (provided it's not a pin-on
hood) and hold the lighter hood open.  We use a pin-on (lift off) hood on our 
67
4-4-2 bracket car as a weight saving measure.  The lift off hood also allows 
for
easier access to the engine compartment.
  (Although, I will have to admit, we do use a marked wood dowel to check the
fuel level in the cell).

Check out our 67 at:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com/photos/superpro/our67.html

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 00:38:44 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Gas Tank Installation

Could somebody out there please give me step by step instruction on how to
install the tank? What end of the strap goes on first?
Thanks,
Jim McKeague
______________

1.  Make sure the tank is empty  (doh!)
2.  Check sending unit gasket and retaining ring (you don't want to do this
again)
3.  Install new hoses on the tank side fittings (feed and vent lines at a
minimum).  While accessable with the tank in place, it's a lot easier with
it out.
4.  Install tar paper sound deadener on top of tank
5.  Forward end of straps (ends closest to rear axle) hook into mounts on
underside of trunk floor
6.  Hook bolt heads into slots at rear of trunk (if you're reusing the old
bolts, run a die down the threads to clean them)
7.  Slide tank into place over the straps.
8.  Connect the gas gauge sender wire (brown)
9.  Raise the tank into place, manuevering the filler neck over the rear
frame crossmember
10.  Push the straps into place over the bolts and start the nuts
11.  Make sure the straps are in the correct position on the tank and
evenly tighten the two nuts.
12.  Hook up the black ground wire using the self-tapping screw to the
floor pan (or is it the frame?)
13.  Hook up the hoses to the hardlines

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 00:27:02 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: '70 Restoration Question

Like I said before, I am going on
what's in the assy manual only.

Brent Pinkstaff
____________

Oh, by the way, I meant to point out in my previous post that the straps
(techinical term, "clips") are also shown in Fig 12-10 of the 1970 service
manual.  And yes, the starter cable for MT applications does run along the
valve cover.  Interestingly, in 1969 the same routing was used, but there
were two versions, one that came in right at the front of the valve cover
and used three straps (for non-A/C cars) and one that came in at the middle
of the valve cover and only used two straps (for A/C, to clear the
alternator).  In 1970, they apparently used the previously "A/C only"
routing for all MT applications (non-A/C as well as A/C).

And to Chris Smetana, the 1970 455 cars actually used one spring ring cable
on the positive side and one bolt-on cable on the negative side.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 00:29:34 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: RE: shocks / restore headers / gold

I think the crank pulley should be gold also? right?
____________

I don't have proof, but I always thought that the balancer was engine
color, but the pulley was black.  I could be wrong, however.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 00:20:03 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: '70 Restoration Question

> Does anyone know of a source for these straps? I have about 7 or so
> restoration catalogs, and don't see these in any of them.

Are they the black plastic ones with an eyelet at one end and a post at the
other? When closed, a little over an inch long? Used to retain cables to
the underside of the front tie bar and in some cases to other underhood
areas?
________

Brent, according to my parts book, Greg is correct.  Part no.380782 is
listed as "CLIP, starter cable" for 442s with manual trans.  Part no.
380782 is _also_ listed as "CLIP, harness to radiator tie bar (strap
type-nylon 1 3/4" long)" for a large number of cars in various years, as
well as being used in other locations (for example, to hold the lead to the
cornering lamps on B-body and C-body cars).  Greg's description is also
correct, this is a flat strap about 3/8" wide with an "eyelet" on one end
and a male snap-in post on the other end.  The strap is wrapped around the
wire or harness and the post in inserted through the eyelet and then into
the hole in the tab or core support.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 00:54:10 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: BB heads NEEDED FAST!!!

I'm picking up a 455 today and seeing as how I leave for school in a
week, I wanna get this thing rebuilt NOW!! It has J's on it now so I'm
asking for:

A clean (meaning no cracks) set of Big Block heads
they don't have to be C's
anything other than J's
fully assembled (rockers, springs)
guaranteed to work fine after they're put on
I'm on a really tight budget!
I don't care if they're just some ol' greasy heads you got layin'
around, as long as you know they run, have no cracks or anything, and
can give them to me for cheap, I'LL BUY 'EM!!!

Thanx guys!!!!
- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
         777777 33333
            77      33
Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
          77        33
         77     33333
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 00:59:27 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Need H*LP with 455 rebuild!!!

When pulling a junkyard 455 out and rebuilding it, what are things that
are a MUST to replace? Also any "Must Do's" and "Do Not's"?

Obviously:
Oil pump/ pickup
Gaskets
Cam
Lifters
Pushrods
Valve seals
Water Pump
Fuel Pump

There has to be more, but it's almost 1 AM and I need some sleep!!!
Please h*lp me guys??

Many Thanx!!!!!
- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
         777777 33333
            77      33
Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
          77        33
         77     33333
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 23:05:17 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Need H*LP with 455 rebuild!!!

> Oil pump/ pickup
> Gaskets
> Cam
> Lifters
> Pushrods
> Valve seals
> Water Pump
> Fuel Pump


BEARINGS!  (A MUST!)  (Cam, rod, and main)
Freeze plugs
Rod bolts (recommended, not 100% essential)
Pushrods?  Not necessary...  Nice, but not required...
Belts/hoses/filters, etc...
Don't forget to get the radiator rodded out or upgraded
Pistons/rings/overbore...  (Nice to do...)
    Balance all at this point.
Stay away from the high volume oil pumps, unless you get the oil
    restrictor kit
Carb kit, if you're using a different carb?
Maybe a sonic check or magnaflux before too much block work
Polish crank?  check journals for wear, at a minimum

Definately more, but as said...  it's late.  I don't know how far you plan to 
go
on the overhaul, but there are some things that come to mind.


- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 01:11:47 EDT
From: <JJP442@aol.com>
Subject: Re:  442 governor

Well believe it or not, I just had my 87 442 up to 122 miles per hour! and it
wasn't just a burst on a down hill, we cruzed like that for a bit. Don't ask
me how, I usually top out at 110, lately she seems to have alot of get up and
go. Maybe i finally passed the break-in period, I've got 135,000k on the
clock.
Thought I'd share that with you,
John,
JJP442@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 00:44:48 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Pin-on hood trick

Here's an old trick to cleanly hold the hood open when using the lightest
'glass hood.  With the hood propped open, drill a small hole through two
overlapping members in the hood hinge linkage.  Use one of the hood pins on
each side through these drilled holes to hold the hood open.  Just be sure
to pull these pins out before trying to close the hood!  :-O

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 08:30:39 +0300
From: Jukka.Kujala@outokumpu.com
Subject: Re: Octane Question

hurstolds@xtalwind.net on 19.08.98 23:28:50

Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

To:   oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
cc:    (bcc: Jukka Kujala/HARJAVALTA/Outokumpu)
Subject:  Re: Octane Question



Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable




Wow, neat.  How is the octane levels computated? And what's this "E"
after the 95?  Ethanol? Estimated?

As Trond from Norway said, octane levels are computed so that your 92
equals to our 98. Actually, I didn=B4t know that, but now I know. E at =
the
end of 95 means orginally gasoline , which was planned to use in cars w=
ith
catalysator and it
has lower emissions as 98 & 99. So E means environmental or economical,=
 but
that=B4s only a guess.

Jukka





=

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 01:45:41 EDT
From: <WheelTrdr@aol.com>
Subject: Fwd: Bumper Stickers

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got a better chance of losing it. If you really want to try,
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See any good bumper stickers lately?  Here are some I've seen around...

* Horn broken. Watch for finger.

* Keep honking...I'm reloading.

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* I brake for no apparent reason.

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* I'm not as think as you drunk I am.

* Forget about World Peace...Visualize using your turn signal.

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* He who laughs last thinks slowest.

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* Rehab is for quitters.

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 01:40:36 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: BB heads NEEDED FAST!!!

Matt,

I may be able to help you out. My neighbor and mechanic has a set of 455
heads laying on a shelf in his garage. He offered them to me for $100, but I
turned them down (didn't have a 455 at the time). I don't remember what
letter they were, although not C's. (I wouldn't have turned THEM down. They
are complete except for rocker arms and pushrods. I'll check first thing in
the morning ask, he did tell me they were in working condition when he
pulled them. I'm not even sure why he has them, ke's a hardcore Mopar
fanatic.

Anyway let me know if your interested and take into consideration shipping
charges. I'm near Philly, PA and as you know them buggers aren't light. May
cost a bit if you need them sent out UPS or FedEx overnight or second day.
I've got an account with both so shipping not a problem on this end.

Let me know,
Randy
610-273-9677 just incase you want to give me a ring, it's my home office
number.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 01:19:51 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Valve Adjustment Question

I have the JM-22-25-10 cam and have no problem at all with my vacuum brakes
at idle. Even when cruising around 2500rpm, I still have no problems at
all. The cam is streetable, but I would step up to a 11" with a 2500-2800
stall, as is recommended with the came specs....\

In my 72 442 conv't I'm running 12.60 @ 106mph in the 1/4 and I can stil
tune it to drop some more...
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Valve Adjustment Question
> Date: Wednesday, August 19, 1998 3:47 PM
>
> You guys with the JM 22-25-10 cam--I'm curious.  What vacumn do you get
> at idle?  And how about at cruise of around 2500RPM?  Will it work with
> a stock convertor?  Basically I'm questioning how streetable this cam is.
>
> Todd Morris
> 71 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 23:30:52 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: BB heads NEEDED FAST!!!

Hey, I've got a set of C heads from my 68 442. Got roller tipped rockers,
guide plates, and pushrods to go (less than 6 months on them) if you want.
A valve job was done less than a year ago... Give me your best offer.
I'm in AZ and we can figure out some shipping.
Ben

Matt Cremean wrote:

> I'm picking up a 455 today and seeing as how I leave for school in a
> week, I wanna get this thing rebuilt NOW!! It has J's on it now so I'm
> asking for:
>
> A clean (meaning no cracks) set of Big Block heads
> they don't have to be C's
> anything other than J's
> fully assembled (rockers, springs)
> guaranteed to work fine after they're put on
> I'm on a really tight budget!
> I don't care if they're just some ol' greasy heads you got layin'
> around, as long as you know they run, have no cracks or anything, and
> can give them to me for cheap, I'LL BUY 'EM!!!
>
> Thanx guys!!!!
> --
> *************
> Matt Cremean
> mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
>          777777 33333
>             77      33
> Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
>           77        33
>          77     33333
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
> **************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 02:21:53 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: BB heads NEEDED FAST!!!

Sorry guys, that last message to matt was supposed to go privately.
What can I say, it's 2:20 am and I'm brain dead as usual.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 06:49:07 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: just stuff... signing off

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	GQPR12E@prodigy.com ( CLAYTON PIERCE)
Subject: just stuff... signing off

Hello all...

Well to those who I've shared my recent poncho problems with off list.
.. I'll say that the radiator fix worked and I'm driving the '65
again.

I'm almost done working out my notice where I've quit here at Prodigy.
.. so as of midnight tomorrow... this address will not work.  I will
be uns*bbing from the list for a while (will still be on digest only
at my ETSU address).  Also ETSU will be closed to prepare for the
coming semester until the end of the month so I will only be able to
check my mail there rarely by telnetting from my parent's house (an
hour away)... basically I'll be without mail.  If you need to contact
me... I have no problems with you calling my phone number (423) 434-
4294.  Or you can still write me at this Prodigy address until
midnight tomorrow (8/20).

Some real quick news... am VERY seriously considering purchasing 2
1964 Oldsmobile Dynamic 88's.  1 is a one-owner car w/ 150k + miles
on it... mostly rust free with a bit of light body damage... very
very nice chrome and bumpers... nice interior with good seat covers
and carpet still... no cracks on dash.  trunk lid has some rust...
1/4s and floorpans are very solid.  Other is parts car... straight
rust free body except for damage to d-side fender/bumper.  interior
pretty nice... a/c car... both are 394 1bbl cars (breather says super
high compression... anybody got a 4bbl intake?) both motors look good
and oil is clean.  Parts car has no tranny... assuming it is in the 1
owner car... fluid in it looks VERY clean.  1 owner car hasn't been
driven since late 80's but has been stored correctly up on blocks.
Parts car hasn't been driven in gawd knows how long... Both are the
exact same baby-blue in color with the exact same blue interior.
Asking $400 for both plus a rear end collision '82 Cutlass w/ good
307... very good interior and decent body (except trunk and 1/4's)...
am going to offer $200 for both '64's... I think they will take it...


Peace, Goodwill, and Happy Oldsmobilling,
Clayton Pierce,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 06:50:24 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Saddleman seat covers

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	senator@mail.chorus.net (Robert F. Newbegin Jr.)
Subject: Saddleman seat covers

I just found the website for Saddleman Auto Accessories.  I bought a set of
seat covers from them (well, I don't need to get the Cutlass's seats all
grimy, you know) and I thought they were great.
I just thought that someone with a lot of automotive links might like another.

http://www.saddleman.com

Bob        '78 CS

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 13:24:13 +0300
From: Jukka.Kujala@outokumpu.com
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: just stuff... signing off

ab348@chebucto.ns.ca on 20.08.98 12:49:07

Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

To:   oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
cc:    (bcc: Jukka Kujala/HARJAVALTA/Outokumpu)
Subject:  UNBOUNCE: just stuff... signing off



Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable




- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:     GQPR12E@prodigy.com ( CLAYTON PIERCE)
Subject: just stuff... signing off

Some real quick news... am VERY seriously considering purchasing 2
1964 Oldsmobile Dynamic 88's.

- -I think I would take them if I were you. Seems that those early 60=B4s=
 full
size oldses
are not so popular in U.S, but here in Scandinavia they would be absolu=
tely
worth more than
400 bucks.

Jukka, =B463 dynamic 88





=

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 06:42:34 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Joliet race track

I went to the race track last night to race and was disappointed when I
couldn't because they had bracket racing going on, Bummer.
 There was a 1972 Cutlass with the licence plate (ROCET 72)  I think that's
what it was.  I also so an Oldsmobile Cutlass Wagon  carry the wheels.  are
either of the cars list members?
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
17 Wins 11 Losses
======================

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 08:09:23 EDT
From: <SOMMERVLLE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Gas Tank Installation

Make sure that you put the rubber padding back or repalce it or the tank will
rattel and drive you nuts.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 08:29:40 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Olds Wheels

Can anyone tell me the width of a standard Olds 15" rim?
I'm gonna get 15 x 7 wheels whenever I can get up the bucks, but I'll
probably need tires before that and I'd like to be able to swap the tires to
the new wheels. Is that possible? I dunno squat about wheels.

Thanx

drc
85 Delta

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 08:38:11 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: Racing Equipment Free Catalog

A friend of mine is rebuilding his C*hev and has been ordering parts from a
company that he has been real pleased with. I through I would pass it along
to the list. I have never ordered from them myself. Maybe some of you know
them. It is:

BARNETT Performance
465 Memorial Drive SE
Atlanta, GA. 30312
1-800-533-1320 Order Line
404-522-1320 Tech Line
404-420-1572 Fax

They carry most major manufacturers performance equipment and offer machine
shop service also. Best of all they offer most parts at  "Free Freight". My
friend ordered 2 cams from them before he made up his mind which one he
wanted and they paid to have both of them sent back. They offer a free
catalog also.

Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the......Past

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 07:04:59 -0500
From: "Tony Eichholz" <eichholz@liljasper.com>
Subject: To the gearheads

Hi Guys;
           I was at the junkyard yesterday in IN and they have a 1970 98
2dr.It has a 455 with E heads.I can buy the engine for $100.00,but no
promises that it works(as-is).Is that engine"high compression"?Are those
heads usable?Also,let me know if there is anything anybody needs off of it.
          Also,I get the dunce of the year award.I put the
correct(68-72)disc brakes-spindle out on my 67 442.Now,my SSI wheels don't
fit. Would you put the 1970 wheels (with the trim rings)on or would you look
for hubcaps?Evidently 67 did not come with disc brakes and SSI .  Any help
or advice would be greatly appreciated.
           Thanks Tony

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 09:09:45 EDT
From: <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
Subject: Re: to everyone

anyone going to charlotte auto fair in N.C. Sept  17-20

have a parking pass good for 1 vehicle and admission for (2)
thurs-sun   $40  jeff 770  723-9345

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 08:13:45 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: To the gearheads

>           I was at the junkyard yesterday in IN and they have a 1970 98
Hey just curious, where in IN?

>          Also,I get the dunce of the year award.I put the
>correct(68-72)disc brakes-spindle out on my 67 442.Now,my SSI wheels don't
>fit. Would you put the 1970 wheels (with the trim rings)on or would you look
Your SSI are probably drum brake only 14x6 SSI (I have the same thing on
my 69).  If you still want SSI, you'll have to find the later versions
in 14x7 with trim rings (our 67 and 69 versions didn't come with trim
rings).  Usually found on 71-72 I believe, I think these should clear
the calipers, unless there are for drums only also.
>for hubcaps?Evidently 67 did not come with disc brakes and SSI .  Any help
>or advice would be greatly appreciated.
>           Thanks Tony

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 09:18:14 -0400
From: "Weaver, Stanleigh G" <Stanleigh.Weaver@PHL.Boeing.com>
Subject: Need Help Tuning Q-Jet

List members, please help!

I recently rebuilt the 4BBL Q-jet on my '84 Cutlass. Originally the Idle
Air Bleed Valve (forgive me if I'm using the incorrect terminology, I
don't have the instructions with me) and Idle Adjustment Screws were
non-adjustable from the factory. The rebuild instructions told how to
drill out the plugs on the Idle Adjustment Screws and how to remove the
Idle Air Bleed Valve cover so that these items could be removed during
rebuild.

Here's my problem: I broke down the entire carb (70 + pieces) per
instructions, except I failed to follow the small printed notes on the
bottom which specifically stated that it was VERY important to count the
number of turns of the Idle Air Bleed Valve and Idle Adjustment Screws
prior to removal. I didn't notice the fine print until I was in the
reassembly process. Instructions stated that if adjustment "unknown" to
bottom out the Idle Air Bleed Valve and back it out 4 turns; back the
Idle Adjustment Screws out 1.5 turns (I think). So I did this and the
car does run, however, when the Idle Air Bleed Valve is out 4 turns the
car runs good at WOT but idles like crap!

Questions:
#1) What's the best way to set the Idle Adjustment Screws?
#2) What's the best way to set the Idle Air Bleed Valve?
#3) Does anyone have two early model Idle Adjustment Screws that have
the screwdriver slot in them that they would be willing to sell? Mine
just have square ends on them. The square ends and poor location makes
adjustment very difficult especially when the car is running.
#4) I was so frustrated (been playing with adjustments for awhile with
little to no improvement) that as a last resort I looked up Holley's web
page and to my surprise I found a 650 spread bore #0-80140 advertised as
a street legal replacement with all emission provisions. "Great", I
thought, but my local speed shop said these were discontinued (besides
that he said they listed for $485.00!!). Is anyone familiar with these
Holley's or know where a used one can be located as a last resort only??

I need a Rochester Q-jet person!! All suggestions and advise are greatly
appreciated. My car is due for PA state inspection next month and I want
it running well before they emission test it.

Thanks to all in advance

        Stan Weaver

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 08:26:21 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: '70 Restoration Question

D*mn, you learn something new every day.  Went home last night and pulled out
the assembly manual and after some searching (I don't need no stinkin' index)
I located the diagrams showing the starter cable routing.  Although my car was
very original when I bought it, someone had swapped engines around 40,000
miles.  As time goes on and I learn more about the car and what is correct and
not correct.  Apparently whoever installed the replacement engine used a unit
from an automatic equipped car and had the crank drilled or just installed a
stick crank before dropping the engine in my car.  The battery cable was
routed along the wheel housing, not along the valve cover.  Also the PCV was
in the valve cover and the air cleaner had only one breather tube from the
valve cover.  This explains why my air filter lid did not have a 4-4-2 decal,
but a 455 decal instead.  Thank god they did not screw up the rest of the car!
If the third owner had not bought it the second owner would have destroyed it,
he was trying.

Now the big question is not finding the plastic clips which looked very common
and according to those with more information, are common, but where would we
find those metal tabs the go under the valve cover bolts?

Dave (trying to have a correct car) Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 09:28:29 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: To the gearheads

I put the
correct(68-72)disc brakes-spindle out on my 67 442.Now,my SSI wheels don't
fit. Would you put the 1970 wheels (with the trim rings)on or would you
look
for hubcaps?Evidently 67 did not come with disc brakes and SSI .  Any help
or advice would be greatly appreciated.
           Thanks Tony
_________________

Unfortunately, you are correct, Tony.  The SSIs were not available with
disc brakes until 1970 (the ones with the chrome rings).  From the
backside, if you compare a disc and non-disc wheel, the difference will be
obvious.  The rim on the inboard side will drop down towards the center of
the rim almost immediately inboard of the tire bead on a non-disc rim,
whereas a disc rim will continue towards the outside of the wheel for a
while before dropping in towards the center (this, of course, to clear the
calipers).  Note that there were some of the disc-compatible SSIs made in
1971 (?) which were chrome also.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 09:31:12 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: '70 Restoration Question

Now the big question is not finding the plastic clips which looked very
common
and according to those with more information, are common, but where would
we
find those metal tabs the go under the valve cover bolts?

Dave (trying to have a correct car) Wyatt
70  4-4-2
______________

Dave, while they are probably pretty common in wrecking yards still, these
are also the tabs sold for attaching the O.A.I. adapter hold-down springs.
Same tabs, just more of them

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 08:41:31 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: To the gearheads

No it is not worth it, don't buy it.  By the way where is that yard???
Hey, just kidding, you should grab it up regardless of running or not.  They
don't make them anymore you know.  If the engine is/was a 4 barrel it should
be high compression, if it is/was a 2 barrel it will be low compression.  A
visible difference in piston dishes between the two and I believe the low
comp. models got the smaller valves also.  Both low comp and high used E heads
with the different valve sizes in '70 while the W-30's got the F heads.  there
may have been another head used, but if so it was not common like the E
casting.

FWIW, I am running a '70 low comp. engine in my car with a W-30 stick cam,
headers and single plane intake.  Not the best combo by far, but it has turned
14.40 at 100 mph in the 1/4 mile with poor (nonexistent) traction.  Don't pass
it up if it is a low comp version.  Swapping pistons, which you would do
during an overhaul will take care of it.


Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 08:47:17 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: '70 Restoration Question

>
>Dave, while they are probably pretty common in wrecking yards still, these
>are also the tabs sold for attaching the O.A.I. adapter hold-down springs.
>Same tabs, just more of them
>

Dave, Joe, Brent, and all,
I thought so too, which is why I purchased 4 from Fusick while at Nats.
The only difference I see is the OAI version has a little 'tab' where
the spring would attach, the non OAI tabs don't have this.  It looks
like this OAI version would still work if you just cut off this little
tab on each end.  Unfortunately, or fortunately I found a correct tab on
a car in the junkyard ~after~ Nats, so I have 4 of these OAI tabs I
don't need .... at least not yet (Ya never know when a 70-2 OAI car will
just happen to fall into you lap and you need these little tabs,
although if you got a car in your lap you've got other problems :)

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 08:49:13 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: '70 Restoration Question

>Dave, while they are probably pretty common in wrecking yards still, these
are also the >tabs sold for attaching the O.A.I. adapter hold-down springs.
Same tabs, just more of them

Sorry to say Joe, but up here in the rust belt 70 anything is hard to find in
a yard.  Let alone tabs that were specific to 4 speed cars and W-30s.  But you
do say "tabs sold".  Does that mean they are available new?

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 09:53:43 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: O.A.I./Harness Hold-Downs

The only difference I see is the OAI version has a little 'tab' where
the spring would attach, the non OAI tabs don't have this.
_____________

Chris,

Actually, I thought there were two versions of this clip, one which was
simply a rectangular piece of flat metal with the corners chamfered and a
hole in each end, and one that had an additional two sets of "fingers" for
holding the AT vac modulator hardline where it passes over the valve cover.
I always thought (though I could be wrong) that the O.A.I. springs went
into the top hole in the clip and the valve cover bolt went through the
other.  The version with the "fingers" was only used on the passenger side
of the engine to hold the modulator pipe.  Is there a third version with an
additional tab for the O.A.I. spring that I'm not aware of?

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 09:56:51 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: '70 Restoration Question

Sorry to say Joe, but up here in the rust belt 70 anything is hard to find
in
a yard.  Let alone tabs that were specific to 4 speed cars and W-30s.  But
you
do say "tabs sold".  Does that mean they are available new?

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2
____________

Yes, sold new by the resto houses, but if I'm correct (see simultaneous
thread with Chris Smetana), then these clips/tabs were used on virtually
all Olds V-8s to hold the wire harness along the valve cover, not just 4
spd W-30s.  'Course, over time and valve jobs, these little parts tend to
get lost in the shuffle (which is why we're all looking for them now).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 09:32:30 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: O.A.I./Harness Hold-Downs

Now this gets interesting....

>Actually, I thought there were two versions of this clip,
Me too

> one which was
>simply a rectangular piece of flat metal with the corners chamfered and a
>hole in each end,
Yes, that's the one I need for my W-31

> and one that had an additional two sets of "fingers" for
>holding the AT vac modulator hardline where it passes over the valve cover.
Acutally, in my 69 assembly manual it shows the above style used to hold
the AT modulator pipe (with the aforementioned black plastic clip I
believe going into one hole).  This "fingers" version is probably the
one I bought from Fusick

>I always thought (though I could be wrong) that the O.A.I. springs went
>into the top hole in the clip and the valve cover bolt went through the
>other.
Now I thought, the springs went into the "fingers", but I don't have a
70-72 OAI car so I'm no expert.

>  The version with the "fingers" was only used on the passenger side
>of the engine to hold the modulator pipe.
Not in 69, at least as far as I can tell from my assembly manual for AT
cars.  It was on the pass side, but used the first version described
above.  or the non "fingers" version

>  Is there a third version with an
>additional tab for the O.A.I. spring that I'm not aware of?
Hmmmm, could be ... what about a difference between 69 (or 68-69 for
that matter as the same thing I need was on a 68 in a junkyard) and
70-72?

The version I got from Fusick is part number SHD83, $3.50 each and is
called something like valve cover hold down or spring hold down.  It is
probably in the OAI parts section of the catalog, if I remember
correctly.

(Chris waits patiently as Fusick catalogs are heard flipping throughout
the country)

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 10:32:00 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: Racing Equipment Free Catalog

		A friend of mine is rebuilding his C*hev and has been
ordering parts from a company that he has been real pleased with. I through
I would pass it along to the list. I have never ordered from them myself.
Maybe some of you know them. It is:

		BARNETT Performance
		465 Memorial Drive SE
		Atlanta, GA. 30312
		1-800-533-1320 Order Line
		404-522-1320 Tech Line
		404-420-1572 Fax

		They carry most major manufacturers performance equipment
and offer machine shop service also. Best of all they offer most parts at
"Free Freight". My friend ordered 2 cams from them before he made up his
mind which one he wanted and they paid to have both of them sent back. They
offer a free catalog also.

		Bobby

		70 442 Escape Back to the......Past

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 11:15:09 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Car Transports

I am interested in buying an Olds in Texas, but being that I live in
Georgia, this presents some what of a problem.  So, the question that I pose
is that has anyone had any dealings (good or bad) with a transport service,
and would you happen to know what kind of expense would be involved in a
thousand mile transport?  I am looking for an inexpensive way to get this
done, and I thank you for your time, Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 08:28:45 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: O.A.I./Harness Hold-Downs

- -Joe Padavano wrote:

Brent, according to my parts book, Greg is correct.  Part no.380782 is
listed as "CLIP, starter cable" for 442s with manual trans.  Part no.
380782 is _also_ listed as "CLIP, harness to radiator tie bar (strap
type-nylon 1 3/4" long)" for a large number of cars in various years, as
well as being used in other locations (for example, to hold the lead to
the
cornering lamps on B-body and C-body cars).


COOL!! This is good news! Fusick still sells these clips. They sure look
different in the assembly manual though.


- -Joe Padavano wrote:

Is there a third version with an
additional tab for the O.A.I. spring that I'm not aware of?


I don't know about this, but I have seen a diagram (don't remember
where) where it showed the '70-'72 OAI springs being attached to those
"fingers". Is it possible that the ones with the vacuum modulator
"fingers" were used on the stick cars so that both the clips and springs
would have a place to go?



Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)


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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 10:37:12 -0500
From: "Reed, Steve" <sreed@cp.varco.com>
Subject: Speaking of + Battery Cable....

> On 1970 manual trans cars, the positive battery cable runs from the
> battery, across to the engine, along the valve cover/intake, and then
> down the back. When the cable travels along the valve cover/intake it
is
> held in place by two straps that clip to stamped steel brackets.

Does anyone know where I can the positive battery cable tube than runs
down the back of the engine?  The one I have is almost completely torn.
I don't think Year One has it available.

Any ideas??

- -Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 08:52:42 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Speaking of + Battery Cable....

Supercars Unlimited has this part. It is listed for 70-72 Auto, not for
stick, but I was planning on trying it on a stick car anyway. It's gotta
be close if it's not the same.

Part number- 38-052  Price- 12.95


Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)


>Does anyone know where I can the positive battery cable tube than runs
>down the back of the engine?  The one I have is almost completely torn.
>I don't think Year One has it available.
>
>Any ideas??
>
>-Steve Reed
>'70 4-4-2 Ragtop
>Austin, TX


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Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 12:05:58 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Anecdotes: Vaccuum Booster for Power Brakes

Not gots, wants.

If any of y'all have had your power booster fail, I wanna hear about how your
car was behaving before it failed.

I do not want to jump to conclusions or promp responses based on anything but
experience in an Oldsmobile.

And of course, I am especially curious if anyone reading this has had the
booster go bad in a 1965 car (Moraine type booster I beleive).

We both thank you.

S&K

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 12:08:47 EDT
From: <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: '70 455 Intake Gasket

I am getting ready to put my intake on and was wondering how I put the
permatex on the tin gasket? Do I put that stuff on the intake also? Could
someone please tell me how I seal the gasket?
Thanks,
Jim McKeague
'70 Rallye 350
'70 Cutlass W31

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 09:13:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dave Welsh <dlwels@yahoo.com>
Subject: Performer package - push rod noise?

We just finished the refresh on our 350 rocket and got it installed in
the '70.  Finally got the timing set right and the engine started
fine. It runs real smooth, but seems to have a rattling noise coming
through the valve covers.  The noise is constant, and comes from all
parts of the engine.  We installed a performer intake, performer plus
cam with new lifters, new edelbrock timimg chain and gears.  We also
put in new, standard length push rods.  The installation guide for the
new edelbrock stuff said that longer push rods ~may~ be needed.  Is
that the noise we hear?  What would the proper length for new rods be
to solve the problem?

I'm on digest, so please send any info direct.

TIA


==
Dave Welsh  dlwels@yahoo.com
1553 Read Road
Janesville, Wisconsin 53546
(608) 756-4352

'70 Cutlass S "on the way"
'69 Cutlass "soon to be parts car" Supreme
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 18:33:28
From: <crl6420@online.no>
Subject: rpm on H/O (83-84)

what€s the rpm on a H/O or 442 going 50 mph ?
(with the org. 307 TH-200R4 3.73 combo)
just wonderd since i`m on gear hunting...


by the way, about the edelbrock heads, have i got
this right or is it time to get a new set of contakt€s
for the old eyeballs ?

do they realy cost $1500 ?
and still you must run around town using, what...
$300...$400 or maybe $500 to get you running ?!?!
well, at least you get another 40 hp to play with,
but they did not come cheap.
make€s me wonder, are they made of gold or
something....?

Thanx for your time.

Chris RL


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 12:47:43 EDT
From: <SHELTERMEN@aol.com>
Subject: Ignition swapping

Hey everyone,
   I'm new to this hot rodding thing so bear with me.  I have a '68 Delmont
and want to switch to an HEI ignition.  Is there a good scrap yard system I
should look for or do I have to buy a complete new system?  Keep in mind I'm
trying to do this on a limited budget, I limit what my wife knows about my
budget!
Tim
'68 Delmont
76 Cutlass Street Stock

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 12:55:39 -0400
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Signing Off for a Coupla Weeks

Just wanted to let folks know -- not that anyone is interested, you
understand -- that I'll be incommunicado until September 8th.

The Missus and I are taking two well-deserved -- if we do say so ourselves! --
weeks off, and spending a quiet vacation down with the kids down in
Ol' Cape Cod.

And I daresay, *Our* Cape vacation (and M'Lady's birthday) will be *much*
more pleasant and carefree than the vacation and birthday of a certain
world leader, who luckily is nowhere near our part of the Cape & Islands. :)

As the song by the Four Seasons says, See You In September!

And here's wishing all list members Full Tanks, Cold A/C and Trouble-Free
Oldsmo-miles!




Tim Churchill        OCA #30327           Framingham, MA
- ------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 09:44:14 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: '70 455 Intake Gasket

best bet on the steel shim gasket is to use rtv around each water passage
both sides of the gasket and in the corners where the end seal goes or along
the entire end seall area if you want to delete the end seals some do some
dont the rest should be ok as long as the surfaces are perfectly clean...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: DROLDS350@aol.com <DROLDS350@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Cc: DROLDS350@aol.com <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Date: Thursday, August 20, 1998 9:10 AM
Subject: '70 455 Intake Gasket


>I am getting ready to put my intake on and was wondering how I put the
>permatex on the tin gasket? Do I put that stuff on the intake also? Could
>someone please tell me how I seal the gasket?
>Thanks,
>Jim McKeague
>'70 Rallye 350
>'70 Cutlass W31

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 12:07:15 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: Signing Off for a Coupla Weeks

>and spending a quiet vacation down with the kids down in Ol' Cape Cod.

Obviously these are not my kids or it could not be a quiet vacation!
"Hey dad did you see that Olds, did you see that one and that one" and on and
on....
Nothing like having a Jr. Olds Nut for a son, that's for sure.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 13:29:26 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Anecdotes: Vaccuum Booster for Power Brakes

If any of y'all have had your power booster fail, I wanna hear about how
your
car was behaving before it failed.
___________

Well, not the booster, but I _have_ had the check valve blow out in a
backfire.  The result was an immediate loss of the power assist and a
corresponding rough idle due to the massive vacuum leak.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Aug 1998 13:58:20 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Ignition swapping

In a message dated 98-08-20 12:49:44 EDT, you write:

<< I'm new to this hot rodding thing so bear with me.  I have a '68 Delmont
and want to switch to an HEI ignition.  Is there a good scrap yard system I
should look for or do I have to buy a complete new system?  Keep in mind I'm
trying to do this on a limited budget, I limit what my wife knows about my
budget!
 Tim [and his] '68 Delmont >>

Tim,
When you do your own work, it is really hard to stay a "newbie".

Here is the short version;
Karl not know HEI, but;

A HEI dist in many yardes is ~$25.
Just about anything similar will do for a source car.

- -and-

Be willing to pay to have it recurved for your car.

And further;
I am 99% certain that hei will not fit with your stock air cleaner housing.

You must;

a) dent it
b) dent it
c) dent it
d) all of the above

- -or-

e) find a suitable replacement for you stock air cleaner housing and dent
that.

- -is-there-an-f-?-

f) go to an aftermarket aircleaner (smaller diameter) that will clear the HEI
housing.

For HiPerf purposes it can be worth the $$ (I imagine) to purchase a
performance dist.

Or rather, for your purposes;
It will definitely be worth your while to be able to show your wife what a new
High performance setup costs, compared to recurving a slightly used one.

But then, I am prolly hallucinating again.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1439
*********************************
