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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1483


oldsmobile-digest     Monday, September 14 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1483



Re: "Daily Driver"...Early Toro Expert on the list
Top Cylinder Reconditioning
3800 performance mods?
Re: 72 Hurst/Olds Vinyl Top
Re: Old broken and rusted parts
Re: 3800 performance mods?
Re: 3800 performance mods?
Looking for Small Parts - 70 SX
Re: Old broken and rusted parts
HEI: MSD coil/module and 6AL compatability
Re: MSD coil/module and 6AL compatability
I'm Back!
Re: Fibreglass repro hood
HE*P NEEDED ON 84 DELTA
Re: UNBOUNCE: '84 Delta H*lp
Re: HELLO?natanata@pac
SOS! Sparky Needs Help!
Re: HE*P NEEDED ON 84 DELTA
Re: HE*P NEEDED ON 84 DELTA
Re: DelRay (was Re: names)
Re: HE*P NEEDED ON 84 DELTA
Re: HE*P NEEDED ON 84 DELTA
Re: Fibreglass repro hood
Re: HE*P NEEDED ON 84 DELTA  II
Re: head interchangibility
Re: 403 motor
Re: Kane County, IL show & swap & car prob??
Re: Fibreglass repro hood
80's 442 times
Re: 3800 performance mods?
Re: HE*P NEEDED ON 84 DELTA
Re: HE*P NEEDED ON 84 DELTA  II
UNBOUNCE: SOS! Sparky Needs H*lp!
Re: block thread messed up! Suggestions?
Re: Fibreglass repro hood
Re: block thread messed up! Suggestions?
Re: 72 Hurst/Olds Vinyl Top
Remove me from your list
Re: 403 motor
Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?
74 h/o decale
Re: 403 motor
Daily driver
High Rev's and W's
Re: 403 motor
Locks and Questions....

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 16:21:16 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: "Daily Driver"...Early Toro Expert on the list

In a message dated 9/14/98
 2:<BR42:<BR06 PM Central Daylight Tim, dieter@3-cities.com writes:

> ICQ is a Messaging program works great! every one should have it loaded its
>  free!
>  Just down load it from the net free!

Deiter,

I think that AOL will not allow other programs to work for mail. I have tried
a couple in the past and they won't integrate. AOL sez the final release of
4.0 will allow third party mail programs.

I hope I have understood you correctly.

Cheeers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 13:38:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Top Cylinder Reconditioning

One of my convertible top cylinders has started spewing oil from around the
shaft at the top.  I phoned Convertible Service in San Gabriel CA and the
guy told me that they can recondition the cylinders which basically
involves replacing the top seal for $79 each as opposed to $137 each for
new cylinders.  He also said that there is no way on these cylinders to
replace the seal on the piston itself and if and when they go bad the
cylinder will "bypass" fluid from the top to bottom chamber and not extert
as much power as it used to.

Does anyone know how difficult it is or is it even possible to replace the
top seal ones self?  Is it just an O-Ring?

BTW, if anyone is looking for new cylinders NPD has Chevelle cylinders
which are apparently identical for $89 each


Lloyd Ferguson
Glendale, California
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

1969 Cutlass Convertible
1984 Buick Riviera

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 15:39:29 -0500
From: "babbott@pdnt.com" <babbott@pdnt.com>
Subject: 3800 performance mods?

 Just got a 92 88 for my wife, it's a dog. Any performance mods available?
Anybody ever tried it?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 17:01:23 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: 72 Hurst/Olds Vinyl Top

John Kreitzer wrote:
>
> I'm sure this has been discussed before on the list but I've been off
> for a while and don't remember seeing it before. Question 1, does
> anyone out there know how much padding was used under the Vinyl Top on
> the 72 Hurst. Question 2, does anyone know what style and a source for
> the Trim around the vinyl top. Any input on these 2 items would be
> gratefully appreciated as I'm getting close to installing it and would
> like to make sure I do it as close to correct as possible.

I would be interested in this info also.  Not started on mine yet, but I
can retain the info for later.  Where are you located?  Anywhere close
to Lexington. Ky?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 17:05:48 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Old broken and rusted parts

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:

> together two good sets should it ever come to that.  Every day I curse
> myself for some part or another that I let get away in my young and stupid
> days.

Know the feeling.  I parted out a 70 Supreme and a 71 Supreme 10 years
or so ago.  Only kept the pieces I could get off fairly easily and had
the room to store.  I would really like to have all the sheet metal
stuff I DIDN'T get to keep now to work on the 70 Supreme conv and the 72
Hurst.  :(

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 17:17:16 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: 3800 performance mods?

babbott@pdnt.com wrote:
>
>  Just got a 92 88 for my wife, it's a dog. Any performance mods available?
> Anybody ever tried it?

Well, I don't know of any, but I was wondering what a Flowmaster would
sound like on one of these babies. I want to take my Mom's Intrigue and
slap a custom hi-po exhaust system on it, but you all KNOW what she'd
think of that. "NO!!! Keep your damn hand off my car!!!!"Can't blame
her, though.

I turned the TC off and put it to the floor at a dead stop before.
Rrrrrrrrrrrrt!!!!! I was surprised to find two decent posi marks in the
rear-view!

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 17:07:50 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 3800 performance mods?

Just got a 92 88 for my wife, it's a dog. Any performance mods available?
Anybody ever tried it?
________

Sure, just get a 250 HP supercharged 3800 out of a new Buick/Pontiac.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 18:16:07 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Looking for Small Parts - 70 SX

My pal Brian is looking for 3 items for this '70 SX he detailed out:

- - the plastic rad hose support loop that goes at the top of the shroud (I
know these are available repro, but thought someone might have one kicking
around who could help with the next 2 items too);
- - the condenser that goes on the ignition coil; and
- - a dashpot for a '70 455-4bbl. Thought you could still buy these new but
no one here can seem to locate them in a parts catalog.

Email me direct if you can help out. Thanks!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 14:41:07 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Old broken and rusted parts

> I know with some fabrication it could probably be saved but
> is it really worth it or should I just pitch it, drop it off
> at the junk yard or scrap metal place?

If you know it's repairable without _major_ heroics and you have
the space, I'd keep it. I probably wouldn't waste useful shelf
space nearby; I'd try... oh... hanging it up in the rafters of
the garage or someplace like that where it's out of the way. I
long ago ceased to be amazed at how I would suddenly have a need
for some goofball part that I'd stored away years before.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 17:07:32 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: HEI: MSD coil/module and 6AL compatability

I just got a HEI distributor for my '71 cutlass that has a four pin
module and vacuum advance.  I ordered an MSD module and coil along
with a weight/spring advance kit.  I currently have an MSD-6AL box.

What do I need and how do I wire all this stuff up?  The current dist.
has a three wire connector coming out of it.

Do I need any adapters?  Do I even need a module with the MSD-6AL?
Any help will be appreciated.

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 17:01:34 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: MSD coil/module and 6AL compatability

No module is needed.
Forget which wire goes where. I ditched the HEI for the MSD billet.
Brett Wilson

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gregory Zimmerman <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
To: Olds list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 14, 1998 4:56 PM
Subject: HEI: MSD coil/module and 6AL compatability


>I just got a HEI distributor for my '71 cutlass that has a four pin
>module and vacuum advance.  I ordered an MSD module and coil along
>with a weight/spring advance kit.  I currently have an MSD-6AL box.
>
>What do I need and how do I wire all this stuff up?  The current dist.
>has a three wire connector coming out of it.
>
>Do I need any adapters?  Do I even need a module with the MSD-6AL?
>Any help will be appreciated.
>
>-greg
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 18:03:03 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: I'm Back!

    Howdy  Fellow Rocket Drivers,

    Well, after nearly two weeks, I'm back home and back on the list.
Besides that, my assembly manual from Year One came while I was gone and
was being carefully safeguarded by my faithful wife, who happens to
think that Olds Cutlasses are the coolest-looking musclecars made.  God,
love her!

    Anyway, I have a question for ya'll.  I took my car out for a spin
after I got back and believe, actually, I'm sure, I need new shocks.
What do ya'll recommend?  Has anyone tried the IAS shocks from
Edelbrock?  How do they compare to KYB's?  Finally, I don't race my car,
it's essentially a daily-driver waiting for me to be able to buy a house
with garage so I can do a frame-off.  Anyway, I want a decent, albeit,
firm ride.  Given my purpose, would the above mentioned shocks be worth
the money over other name-brand gas shocks?

Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 15:27:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fibreglass repro hood

- ---Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
>
> Am thinking of putting a VFN company 'glass W-25 ram air hood onto a
'69 CS street car project.
> Any problems putting the '70 style hood onto a '69?



- ----I agree with Joe, but have a couple of suggestions.
  First as an option to a prop rod or light duty springs, you can use
gas struts ....like for hatchbacks ....That's what I did on my hood.
Also, if you're worried about the air box....the ones from US
Bodysource comes with the indentions already there, and an airbox is
avail. for about $50 or so.I had a USB hood on my 69  and the fit was
great...and the hoodlatch was fairly easy to incorporate into the hood.
    but take Joe and my advice, definately go with the H/D version.You
can see my 69 on my site,and let me know if I can help.
                  SMAN
==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 16:58:53 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: HE*P NEEDED ON 84 DELTA

(I sent this once before, but it bounced, because I spelled a bad word in
the subject line...I'm posting again becuase I really need some assistance
with this...THANKS!)

I have a 1984 Delta 88 4-door with an Olds 307 (but only Olds made the 307,
yes?), 150k on the clock.  I have three questions, in regards to problems
I've been having...

1.  My OIL/CHOKE idiot light comes on (and then goes off) at certain times,
specifically when I go up or down hills, or when I come to a full stop (but
never, for example, when I'm just booking down a flat stretch of highway).
I check the oil every couple of days, and it always reads FULL; why is this
happening?  I don't think that it's a problem with the sender, because
there are set times when it happens (up or down hills, etc.)...could it be
the oil pump?  Am I endangering my engine by driving it like this?  After
the light comes on, it will go off either (a) after the major part of the
ascent (or descent) on the hill is completed, or (b) when I goose the
accelerator.  I think this could be a potentially serious problem...

2.  My transmission "clicks".  I know the car came stock with a TH-200, but
the previous owner said (and I have the receipt) that the transmission had
been replaced with a (quote from the receipt) "rebuilt TH-350".  The
"clicking" happens when I come to a complete stop, or when I accelerate
from a dead stop.  I have no other problems to report as far as the
transmission is concerned, which is why I think that this is the less
serious of the two mechanical problems I need help with...maybe it would
help if I could positively identify the transmission that's on my car?  How
do I go about doing this?  Is there an ID plate, or what?

3.  When I bought the car, I had no problems with the driver's door key
slot...just in the last day, though, I am having (extremely minor) trouble
inserting the key into the slot, but much more dramatic problems trying to
pull the key out (as in, it REALLY doesn't want to come out of the slot; I
have to "jiggle" it quite a bit).  The door always unlocks without a
problem, it's just that it's kind of rough putting it in, and a real bitch
to pull out.  Is this a problem that could possibly be fixed with graphite
spray?  If so, what brand should I use?  Any other possible
diagnosis/solutions?

Thanks in advance (and HI JOE P.!),

- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons				 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 
3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722
								Home :	
(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile						(713) 776-2110 
(Houston)
 	 Delta 88				Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  
4-door								(713) 
318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 16:54:56 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: '84 Delta H*lp

Well...duh.


At 06:48 AM 9/14/98 -0300, you wrote:
>Now you know why the word is always spelled "H*LP"; majordomo bounces it
>if you don't do that.
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>From:	Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
>Subject: H*LP NEEDED on 84 DELTA
>
>I never understood why people wrote H?LP, or H*ELP, or whatever, when
>that's what the list is about to begin with...anyway...

- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons				 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 
3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722
								Home :	
(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile						(713) 776-2110 
(Houston)
 	 Delta 88				Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  
4-door								(713) 
318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 17:27:52 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: HELLO?natanata@pac

I'll keep it short. chebucto is working fine in St. Lou
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 17:55:51 -0700
From: Greg Kalkhoff <gkalkhof@mail.execpc.com>
Subject: SOS! Sparky Needs Help!

Olds Listers,

Sorry to only poke my head in when I am in dire need, but I need you collective
engine experts to give me some guidance. This refers to a 425 in a '66
Toronado.

I will copy/paste my mail i sent to the Toro list.

*** I am NOT currently on the Olds List so PLEASE send all your replys to me
privately.

I REALLY appreciate any help on this matter!  ):

Post to follow:
====================================

All,

I will make this as cogent as possible.

Chuck Noppe visited me this weekend (I'll post our adventures seperately).

We were bombing around Milwaukee Saturday night as I gave him the nickle tour 
in
the '66 Dubonette and the car ran perfectly, was never abused, wound out, or
stressed in any way!

Sunday morning we get up early (about 7 AM) and TREK to the shop. The car ran
perfect. Then, about 1/2 the way up (about 30 miles into the trip beteen 60-70
mph on the superslab), I notice that the rpm's are coming up just a little and
feel a loss of power. I accelerate a tad to keep at speed. I look in the rear
view and it looks like a Blue Angel with full smoke on during an air show. 
There
was a smell, but none that I ever smelled before! It was not a burning, acrid,
gas, smell. Just, what I can only describe as, an odd smell. I NEVER saw that
much smoke! It was not blue, it was not white, sorta grey and opague, but LOTS
of it! It lasted about 10 seconds and went away.

The car seemed to run fine for the next minute or two, but when I backed off 
for
some slower traffic, there I was writing my name in the fresh morning air 
again!

I slowed it way down and pulled off the freeway, afraid I was going to cause an
accident.

Now, our initial impression was that the modulator let go and I was sucking
tranny fluid back through the carb. This seemed plausible for the moment as the
car ideled fine and didn't smoke while ideling.

But, when getting back on the freeway, the tranny shifted perfectly. Even
downshifted fine. But, still a good theory for the moment anyway.

The car continued to emit LARGE amounts of smoke, but ONLY intermittantly with
no pattern and I could not MAKE it do it on purpose. It looked like an Indy Car
when the blower lets go! THAT MUCH SMOKE!!!

I now have more power loss (but still plenty to get down the road). So I limp 
it
off the freeway and decide to take a back road the rest of the way.

Upon arrival to the shop. We notice the engine has a slight miss. Not bad 
though
as I have seen worse. Not as bad as an obvious bad valve or a dead cylinder,
but noticable nonetheless. At this point, it does not appear to be close to
catastrophic engine failure.

THEN I notice smoke puffing out the breather and PCV holes on the valve covers.
I take the oil filler cap off and it looks like Puff the Magic Choo Choo!!! The
engine seems to be going more sour as we fiddle around, but never bad enough to
determine just what the hell is going on.

Vital Signs:

1. Temperature NEVER got above normal.
2. It sucked almost a quart of oil in about 20 miles.
3. Rad Fluid clear (no evidence of oil or frothing as in cracked head)
4. NO noise from valve train or engine proper.
5. Removing plug wires on right side (two closest to firewall seem not to make
much difference). All others made a BIG difference.

History:

1. Car has been running like a champ for years, only 112 original miles on it)
2. FRESH oil in it!
3. New oil seals, rocker arms, push rods, rocker arms two years ago.
4. All new electrical stuff (plugs points etc etc)
5. I just took it on a 600 vacation last month and ran flawless.

For those of you who have been in this car, you know it runs (ran) like new.

Not to obscure anyones ideas at this time, but the initial impression is that I
blew a piston ring or two, burned a hole in a piston, dropped a valve, worn cam
lobe etc etc.

I personally can't belive that I have this major of an engine failure, but I
suppose it could be time for my string of luck to run out.

What should I do first?

Take it in for a compression check? Pull the valve covers to see if I didn't
break a valve spring, seal, rocker arm etc etc???? Somehow, copious amounts of
engine oil is getting into a combustion chamber, either from the top or the
bottom. I hope it's from the top!!!

As my luck would have it, I'm workng the next two weeks straight and I can't 
get
to it myself, so I'll have to take it to a local wrench (I trust him though).

If, in fact, I did blow a pistion or something internal/bottom end, what should
I do? Take a match to it and REALLY flame the thing up?

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!!!!

Sparkless
- ------------------------------------

TIA! Remember, please contack me privately. gkalkhof@execpc.com

Sparky
- --
Greg "Sparky" Kalkhoff                        See the Sparkmobile
Toronado Chapter Webmaster               http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html
Toronado FAQ Page Administrator
http://www.Toronado.org

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 18:55:56 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: HE*P NEEDED ON 84 DELTA

Brian Ammons wrote:

> 1.  My OIL/CHOKE idiot light comes on (and then goes off) at certain times,
> specifically when I go up or down hills, or when I come to a full stop (but
> never, for example, when I'm just booking down a flat stretch of highway).
> I check the oil every couple of days, and it always reads FULL; why is this
> happening?  I don't think that it's a problem with the sender, because
> there are set times when it happens (up or down hills, etc.)...could it be
> the oil pump?  Am I endangering my engine by driving it like this?  After
> the light comes on, it will go off either (a) after the major part of the
> ascent (or descent) on the hill is completed, or (b) when I goose the
> accelerator.  I think this could be a potentially serious problem...
>

I would install an oil pressure GAUGE and observe the actual readings during 
the
conditions you mention.  If you install the gauge with a tee connector where 
the
oil sender screws into the block, you can keep the stock pressure sender along
with the gauge.  I don't know what the minimum oil pressure is for your car
(mine is 35-40 psi at 2000 rpm), but if you get a manual on the car, you will 
be
able to tell how far out of specs the pressure goes.  The causes could be
partially plugged oil passage ways or even partially plugged oil return holes 
in
the heads.  Take the valve covers off and see if there is any sludge in the
heads.  After cleaning the tops of the heads (a good shop vac works great), run
an engine flush and change the oil and filter. Also, running an oil with too
thin a viscosity  can cause low oil pressure readings. Of course, a failing oil
pump may be the problem. Eliminate the easy variables first, though.

> 3.  When I bought the car, I had no problems with the driver's door key
> slot...just in the last day, though, I am having (extremely minor) trouble
> inserting the key into the slot, but much more dramatic problems trying to
> pull the key out (as in, it REALLY doesn't want to come out of the slot; I
> have to "jiggle" it quite a bit).  The door always unlocks without a
> problem, it's just that it's kind of rough putting it in, and a real bitch
> to pull out.  Is this a problem that could possibly be fixed with graphite
> spray?  If so, what brand should I use?  Any other possible
> diagnosis/solutions?

One word answer here....WD-40!

Hope this helps,

Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 16:10:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: HE*P NEEDED ON 84 DELTA

- ---Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu> wrote:

I have a 1984 Delta 88 4-door with an Olds 307 (but only Olds made the
307,
> yes?), 150k on the clock.  I have three questions, in regards to
problems
> I've been having...
>
> 1.  My OIL/CHOKE idiot light comes on (and then goes off) at certain
times.....<snipped>

- ----I'd STILL check the sender, as it is relitively cheap and easily
accessable.

 2.  My transmission "clicks".  I know the car came stock with a
TH-200, but the previous owner said (and I have the receipt) that the
transmission had been replaced with a (quote from the receipt)
"rebuilt TH-350". The "clicking" happens when I come to a complete
stop, or when I accelerate from a dead stop.

- -------Sounds like somethings not adjusted quite right...


3.  When I bought the car, I had no problems with the driver's door
key slot... Is this a problem that could possibly be fixed with
graphite spray?  If so, what brand should I use?  			

- ---This one I can help with...I'm the Olds "locdoc" :)
   Spray with WD-40 instead of graphite...graphite can help at first
but repeated use can "gum" everything up.I've been a locksmith for 10
yrs. and have had more problems show up because of graphite, that
could've been avoided with some WD-40 (or similar).If that does'nt
work,hit me direct,I've got plenty of GM locks that I can key to your
existing key to make everything the way it should be.
                      SMAN
==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 19:16:55 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: DelRay (was Re: names)

The '55 Olds kicked bootie.  I had a two door hardtop Super with a mild cam
and dual exhaust.  It was a great driver and a great sleeper.  I surprised
many an unsuspecting *ss with that car, including one particular sonambulent
'61 Fartstire.  Another long story.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 14, 1998 10:39 AM
Subject: DelRay (was Re: names)


>On Mon, 14 Sep 1998, David L Wyatt wrote:
>> Doh!  I used to have a 55 210 Delray, how could I forget.  It was a vinyl
>> interior upgrade(?) in the 210 series in place of the standard cloth.  In
my
>
>This is totally non-Olds, something I hate to do. I am forced to admit,
>however, that I have a soft spot for this particular car (only the '55).
>Right from the name itself (so 50's!) to the look. A few weeks back at our
>club's show was a '55 DelRay 2-door post, powder blue and white exterior,
>blue and white vinyl interior, 265 V-8, nicely done to stock specs some
>time back. Unfortunately it was suffering from recurring rusties in a few
>spots and some of the bodywork needed to be redone, which ruled out the
>$15K (!) the owner hoped to sell it for. He was nuts, but the car was
>cool.
>
>1955 was a good year for GM. The '55 Olds was big that year, the '55 Buick
>was even a bigger seller if memory serves. They probably had 60% of the
>market in those days.
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 18:26:17 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: HE*P NEEDED ON 84 DELTA

Brian,
Does yours have a swinging oil pick up in the pan? Sound like it's not
swinging from front to rear. ( Joe P. would probably know this answer),
really sounds like the oil is running away from the pickup source. Go,
stop, uphill, downhill, the oil level keeps moving front to rear of the pan
and the pickup isn't following it. No oil to drink, no oil pressure. 2.
Lock Ease liquid, mixture of kerosene and graphite I believe, works great,
forgot question # 3, to use a Karl, DUH!

Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 18:31:54 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: HE*P NEEDED ON 84 DELTA

Forgot 2 not 3. Double DUH!
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 19:32:48 EDT
From: TomW30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fibreglass repro hood

 Have a suggestion if you are not looking for stock appearance (which it seems
you are not) and if weight reduction is not a concern (which it may be, in
which case ignore this). Year One makes a 1969 repro Hurst Olds hood scoop for
about $120. It comes very close to the original "mailbox" style of the
original '69 H/O's. It's made of fiberglass with mounting bolts moulded in the
bottom. For looks only, you would need to drill out matching holes in the
hood. For looks and function you would need to open a large hole near the rear
of the scoop. I have aftermarket  performance intake and carb which was going
to necessitate a real short air cleaner.  With the scoop and the hole within,
I now have a full 4" cleaner which protrudes up through the hood into the
scoop, assuring me of cool somewhat forced outside air.
   Just a suggestion.  I know a lot of folks don't care for the "mailbox"
look.

                             Good luck,

                                       Tom

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 18:39:43 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: HE*P NEEDED ON 84 DELTA  II

Check to the sman on the locks, thats what he does. I never second guess an
expert. Sman, does the WD dry out after a while??

Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 17:19:37 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: head interchangibility

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                                   Hilltown, PA

Rick,
If you wind up wanting to sell the 7a's, let me know please.  Thanks.

Ray

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 17:13:46 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: 403 motor

Igor,
I get no traction until second gear if I peg the throttle from a
stand-still,  But I'm running 205's(!!!) now.  I cracked one of my
Centerlines with 235's, so I put on a set of SS3's with 205's that we had
around.   With the 235's, I did not have super grip, but much better.
Is your Delta a two door?  Sounds pretty cool.  Cooler than the champagne
colored 4 door 307 84 88 I had!

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                                   Hilltown, PA

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 17:16:47 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Kane County, IL show & swap & car prob??

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                                   Hilltown, PA

On Mon, 14 Sep 1998 13:09:21 -0400 Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM writes:
>  Karl started engine, let it die, and watched as fuel was visibly
>falling
>from venturii nozzles....
>____________
>

It sould be a warped metering block also.  Is this a holley?  You can
take off the metering block and see if it's flat.  If not you can file it
flat.  Just make sure there aren't any stray scraps of metal on it when
you bolt it back to the carb!

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 17:06:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fibreglass repro hood

- ---TomW30@aol.com wrote:

 Year One makes a 1969 repro Hurst Olds hood scoop for
> about $120. It comes very close to the original "mailbox" style of
the original '69 H/O's. It's made of fiberglass with mounting bolts
moulded in the bottom. For looks only, you would need to drill out
matching holes in the hood. For looks and function you would need to
open a large hole near the rear of the scoop.


- ----I had one of those on my 69 before the W-30 hood...to me it looks
cool at first but tires rather quickly....and if you're gonna copy a
69 H/O...NO offense towards Tom, just an info point.....the 69 H/O's
hood only had about a 6"x6" square cut out for the air to come
in.....if Tom opened his up a to a bigger size hole....I say he's
smart...I went with a standard size hole...not enough air flow in my
opinion....I'm sure I'll hear from Mike shortly <G>
          SMAN
==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 20:07:13 -0400
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: 80's 442 times

Message text written by Nathyn
>could anyone tell me what the G-body 442's ran in the quarter
mile???? And are the Hurst Olds any faster???  thanks Nathyn<

The stock ones I have seen run about 17.0 to 17.8 in the 1/4 mile
(sslloowwww).

Mine runs 16.17 to 16.3 now with custom prom and custom shift kit in
tranny.  Thats about all the 307 is worth with the 3.73 gears - runs out of
steam.

A Monte Carlo SS runs 15.8 to 16.3 stock - Chevy engine breathes better I
guess.

Hurst Olds had 10 more horsepower than 86-87 442 - different heads.

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma, Ohio
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E & 4L60-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'96 DCM Impala SS (Naisso #1365)  '87 Olds Cutlass 442 (OCA #028505)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 07:16:32 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 3800 performance mods?

I would just leave it stock, like this it wil run forever. I feel that when
you start to play around with modern cars that are NOT meant to be sport
cars you do more harm than good. A 1992 Olds 88 is meant for luxury
cruising not 1/4 mile raing. Leave that to the cars that were built for
that. The 3.8 motor is probably one of the best V6 motors GM developed. I
have seen people get 100,000++ miles on them with no problems.

I don't want ot knock you for trying to hop-up a car, it is just that a car
like that is perfect just the way it is. It was built for cruising not
racing.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: babbott@pdnt.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 3800 performance mods?
> Date: Monday, September 14, 1998 3:39 PM
>
>  Just got a 92 88 for my wife, it's a dog. Any performance mods
available?
> Anybody ever tried it?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 07:19:15 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: HE*P NEEDED ON 84 DELTA

How many miles on the motor? It could be bearing clearances that are too
high. Get a real gauge on there and check what it is exactly. If the gauge
reads low then it is probably bearing wear, it is rarely the oil pump.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Thomas P. Smith <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: HE*P NEEDED ON 84 DELTA
> Date: Monday, September 14, 1998 5:55 PM
>
>
>
> Brian Ammons wrote:
>
> > 1.  My OIL/CHOKE idiot light comes on (and then goes off) at certain
times,
> > specifically when I go up or down hills, or when I come to a full stop
(but
> > never, for example, when I'm just booking down a flat stretch of
highway).
> > I check the oil every couple of days, and it always reads FULL; why is
this
> > happening?  I don't think that it's a problem with the sender, because
> > there are set times when it happens (up or down hills, etc.)...could it
be
> > the oil pump?  Am I endangering my engine by driving it like this?
After
> > the light comes on, it will go off either (a) after the major part of
the
> > ascent (or descent) on the hill is completed, or (b) when I goose the
> > accelerator.  I think this could be a potentially serious problem...
> >
>
> I would install an oil pressure GAUGE and observe the actual readings
during the conditions you
> mention.  If you install the gauge with a tee connector where the oil
sender screws into the block,
> you can keep the stock pressure sender along with the gauge.  I don't
know what the minimum oil
> pressure is for your car (mine is 35-40 psi at 2000 rpm), but if you get
a manual on the car, you
> will be able to tell how far out of specs the pressure goes.  The causes
could be partially plugged
> oil passage ways or even partially plugged oil return holes in the heads.
 Take the valve covers
> off and see if there is any sludge in the heads.  After cleaning the tops
of the heads (a good shop
> vac works great), run an engine flush and change the oil and filter.
Also, running an oil with too
> thin a viscosity  can cause low oil pressure readings. Of course, a
failing oil pump may be the
> problem. Eliminate the easy variables first, though.
>
> > 3.  When I bought the car, I had no problems with the driver's door key
> > slot...just in the last day, though, I am having (extremely minor)
trouble
> > inserting the key into the slot, but much more dramatic problems trying
to
> > pull the key out (as in, it REALLY doesn't want to come out of the
slot; I
> > have to "jiggle" it quite a bit).  The door always unlocks without a
> > problem, it's just that it's kind of rough putting it in, and a real
bitch
> > to pull out.  Is this a problem that could possibly be fixed with
graphite
> > spray?  If so, what brand should I use?  Any other possible
> > diagnosis/solutions?
>
> One word answer here....WD-40!
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Thomas P. Smith
> 1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 17:23:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: HE*P NEEDED ON 84 DELTA  II

- ---Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net> wrote:

 Check to the sman on the locks, thats what he does. I never second
guess an expert. Sman, does the WD dry out after a while??

- ----Hi...the WD-40 isn't real bad about drying out,I just spray a
little in all about 1-2 times a year ....graphite is kinda powder
based, once it's in, it really has no where to go, and when it "dries
out" it get's  built up. This can cause problems. Ex.-In office
buildings,most of which are on a masterkey system, when graphite is
used, the buildup is substantial enough to cause the wrong key to work
a lock. Granted this doen't nessasarily pertain to the GM design...but
at least the WD-40 doesn't harden,it evaporates...all that is needed
is another shot and you're back in business.

                 SMAN

==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 21:41:22 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: SOS! Sparky Needs H*lp!

Sparky's got a problem... respond directly to him at
gkalkhof@mail.execpc.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Greg Kalkhoff <gkalkhof@mail.execpc.com>
Organization: Toronado Chapter Web Master
Subject: SOS! Sparky Needs H*lp!

Olds Listers,

Sorry to only poke my head in when I am in dire need, but I need you
collective engine experts to give me some guidance. This refers to a 425
in a '66 Toronado.

I will copy/paste my mail i sent to the Toro list.

*** I am NOT currently on the Olds List so PLEASE send all your replys to
me privately.

I REALLY appreciate any h*lp on this matter!  ):

Post to follow:
====================================

All,

I will make this as cogent as possible.

Chuck Noppe visited me this weekend (I'll post our adventures seperately).

We were bombing around Milwaukee Saturday night as I gave him the nickle
tour in the '66 Dubonette and the car ran perfectly, was never abused,
wound out, or stressed in any way!

Sunday morning we get up early (about 7 AM) and TREK to the shop. The car
ran perfect.  Then, about 1/2 the way up (about 30 miles into the trip
beteen 60-70 mph on the superslab), I notice that the rpm's are coming up
just a little and feel a loss of power.  I accelerate a tad to keep at
speed. I look in the rear view and it looks like a Blue Angel with full
smoke on during an air show. There was a smell, but none that I ever
smelled before! It was not a burning, acrid, gas, smell. Just, what I can
only describe as, an odd smell. I NEVER saw that much smoke! It was not
blue, it was not white, sorta grey and opague, but LOTS of it! It lasted
about 10 seconds and went away.

The car seemed to run fine for the next minute or two, but when I backed
off for some slower traffic, there I was writing my name in the fresh
morning air again!

I slowed it way down and pulled off the freeway, afraid I was going to
cause an accident.

Now, our initial impression was that the modulator let go and I was
sucking tranny fluid back through the carb. This seemed plausible for the
moment as the car ideled fine and didn't smoke while ideling.

But, when getting back on the freeway, the tranny shifted perfectly. Even
downshifted fine. But, still a good theory for the moment anyway.

The car continued to emit LARGE amounts of smoke, but ONLY intermittantly
with no pattern and I could not MAKE it do it on purpose. It looked like
an Indy Car when the blower lets go! THAT MUCH SMOKE!!!

I now have more power loss (but still plenty to get down the road). So I
limp it off the freeway and decide to take a back road the rest of the
way.

Upon arrival to the shop. We notice the engine has a slight miss. Not bad
though as I have seen worse. Not as bad as an obvious bad valve or a dead
cylinder, but noticable nonetheless. At this point, it does not appear to
be close to catastrophic engine failure.

THEN I notice smoke puffing out the breather and PCV holes on the valve
covers. I take the oil filler cap off and it looks like Puff the Magic
Choo Choo!!! The engine seems to be going more sour as we fiddle around,
but never bad enough to determine just what the hell is going on.

Vital Signs:

1. Temperature NEVER got above normal.
2. It sucked almost a quart of oil in about 20 miles.
3. Rad Fluid clear (no evidence of oil or frothing as in cracked head)
4. NO noise from valve train or engine proper.
5. Removing plug wires on right side (two closest to firewall seem not to
make much difference). All others made a BIG difference.

History:

1. Car has been running like a champ for years, only 112 original miles on it)
2. FRESH oil in it!
3. New oil seals, rocker arms, push rods, rocker arms two years ago.
4. All new electrical stuff (plugs points etc etc)
5. I just took it on a 600 vacation last month and ran flawless.

For those of you who have been in this car, you know it runs (ran) like new.

Not to obscure anyones ideas at this time, but the initial impression is
that I blew a piston ring or two, burned a hole in a piston, dropped a
valve, worn cam lobe etc etc.

I personally can't belive that I have this major of an engine failure, but
I suppose it could be time for my string of luck to run out.

What should I do first?

Take it in for a compression check? Pull the valve covers to see if I
didn't break a valve spring, seal, rocker arm etc etc???? Somehow, copious
amounts of engine oil is getting into a combustion chamber, either from
the top or the bottom. I hope it's from the top!!!

As my luck would have it, I'm workng the next two weeks straight and I
can't get to it myself, so I'll have to take it to a local wrench (I trust
him though).

If, in fact, I did blow a pistion or something internal/bottom end, what
should I do?  Take a match to it and REALLY flame the thing up?

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!!!!

Sparkless
- ------------------------------------

TIA! Remember, please contack me privately. gkalkhof@execpc.com

Sparky
- --
Greg "Sparky" Kalkhoff                        See the Sparkmobile
Toronado Chapter Webmaster               http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html
Toronado FAQ Page Administrator
http://www.Toronado.org

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 20:46:44 EDT
From: GChris1511@aol.com
Subject: Re: block thread messed up! Suggestions?

This problem isn't that bad.  Why not use a metal set type of epoxy to fill
the void.  Smooth the area after the epoxy sets.  Then forget the bolt and use
a sealant on the cover.  It's not like there is oil pressure and or an oil
sump holding oil.  I might try to tap the metal set if it were me but I really
don't think it's necessary.  If trying this is not to your liking, like the
man said another block.
Hope this helps you decide.
Jerry C.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 20:49:36 EDT
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fibreglass repro hood

Address for US Bodysource? Price of HD hood? Catalog?
Email?
Thanks-

Peter
CoupeKing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 21:01:54 EDT
From: GChris1511@aol.com
Subject: Re: block thread messed up! Suggestions?

I have had experience with welding cast iron blocks.  Most of it because of
improper freeze protection.  That does not work.  Book says it should.  Welder
promises it will. Requires adjacent block temps in the 800F range.  Need for
cleanliness that is hard to obtain.  I wouldn't weld on it unless you are able
to prevent warpage of the block.  Problem is finding the warped componet
before it fails.  However your problem is not fluid pressure which wants to
leak, which is what happened to the repairs in the blocks I have seen. If you
did nothing assuming the missing block chunk is not wider than the flange not
much would happen except some oil leak.  You could probably fill the hole with
RTV.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 19:22:19 -0500
From: "John Kreitzer" <john.kreitzer@gte.net>
Subject: Re: 72 Hurst/Olds Vinyl Top

- -----Original Message-----
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 14, 1998 4:01 PM
Subject: Re: 72 Hurst/Olds Vinyl Top


>John Kreitzer wrote:
>>
>> I'm sure this has been discussed before on the list but I've been off
>> for a while and don't remember seeing it before. Question 1, does
>> anyone out there know how much padding was used under the Vinyl Top on
>> the 72 Hurst. Question 2, does anyone know what style and a source for
>> the Trim around the vinyl top. Any input on these 2 items would be
>> gratefully appreciated as I'm getting close to installing it and would
>> like to make sure I do it as close to correct as possible.
>
>I would be interested in this info also.  Not started on mine yet, but I
>can retain the info for later.  Where are you located?  Anywhere close
>to Lexington. Ky?
>
Don,
No real info. of yet, I've got a e-mail in to Steve at Brothers Auto. Hoping
for some help there. I'll let you know if I here anything. By the way I'm
from Southern Wisconsin, a few miles from Kentucky.
John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 21:22:30 EDT
From: GChris1511@aol.com
Subject: Remove me from your list

Please remove me from your list.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 19:28:52 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 403 motor

No, it is a 4-door.  It has tinted windows, dual dual chrome tips (4 exits
total), the rear sits little higher then the front so it looks mean.  It
acctually looks mean.  You would be suprissed at how many people picked on
me during the 1 week that I drove.  No losses of course.  Still waiting for
a 5.0 that prowls around my neigbourhood with no exausut and hudge rear
tires.  I have seen him go a couple of times and don't know if I could take
him.  Anyways, this was my first car (I am 20 now) and I kept it and always
liked it the most.  I wanted a sleeper, but with the dual tips and 15x10
Cragar SS rims, I does not look quite like one.  But anywas, you should see
the look on peoples faces when a Delta starts to burn the two tires.  I am
in the process of painting it soon and found out that the bottom of the
doors is in really bad shape.  So when I do get the car done, I will get in
on the net and tell you guys about it.  Igor.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/200r4/propane)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (367/727/4.10s)


- -----Original Message-----
From: Ray Costanzo <rocket409@juno.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 14, 1998 5:45 PM
Subject: Re: 403 motor


>Igor,
>I get no traction until second gear if I peg the throttle from a
>stand-still,  But I'm running 205's(!!!) now.  I cracked one of my
>Centerlines with 235's, so I put on a set of SS3's with 205's that we had
>around.   With the 235's, I did not have super grip, but much better.
>Is your Delta a two door?  Sounds pretty cool.  Cooler than the champagne
>colored 4 door 307 84 88 I had!
>
>Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
>                                   Hilltown, PA
>
>_____________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 19:30:36 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?

I figure about 1884 RPM at 60MPH, +/- depending on trans and lock-up torque
coverter, tire size, etc.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 14, 1998 2:23 PM
Subject: Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?


>One good thing with that type of gearing is that you can cruise the Olds at
>60MPH + and still be under 3000RPM. While alot of us high number rear end
>guys can only 55 MPH and we are starting to enter the higher RMP range
>3000+.
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>----------
>> From: Igor T. '81 455DRB <igor455@home.com>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?
>> Date: Monday, September 14, 1998 1:29 AM
>>
>> Depending on your cam and other stuff you will most likely spin the tires
>> good, get good off the line and superb midrange pull.  Also, expect
>speeds
>> like 140 mph + depending on powerband.  If you have stock hight tires
>> (205/70/14s) I calculate you need 4350 RPM to do about 140 MPH.  Even
>with
>> the bottom end cam I have and 3.23s it easily gets to 4500RPM in no time.
>> With some stretch of highway, I can't see why you can't do 140.  Have
>fun,
>> this will be one fast olds.
>>
>> Igor Todorovic
>> 1981 Delta 88 (455/Th400/3.23s)
>> 1981 Regency (307/200R4/propane)
>> 1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: DYeager535@aol.com <DYeager535@aol.com>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>> Date: Sunday, September 13, 1998 7:29 PM
>> Subject: Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?
>>
>>
>> >In a message dated 98-09-13 21:23:46 EDT, you write:
>> >
>> ><< I am in the process of dropping in a 455 into my '79 Cutlass. It has
>the
>> > 2.29:1 gear ratio with limited slip.  What will this combo result in?
>> > Smoked tires, or what?
>> >  >>
>> >
>> > Broken axles?? I'm not sure..had the 2.29 against my 403, pinion
>bearing
>> went
>> >bad, probably not from the motor though...that 455 might push the limits
>of
>> >these rear ends, especially that high gear ratio. (GREAT on the freeway
>> >though!)  Dorian
>> >
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 21:29:31 EDT
From: KENSOLDS9@aol.com
Subject: 74 h/o decale

does any one know were i can get the decale that goes on the front of the
quarter panels, just behind the doors on a 74 hurst olds? its the round decale
about the size of a 45 record.  any info on were to get one would be a big
help .     	      		please email me back
.																																	
thanks alot , ken

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 19:37:20 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 403 motor

- -----Original Message-----
From: DYeager535@aol.com <DYeager535@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 14, 1998 11:46 AM
Subject: Re: 403 motor


>In a message dated 98-09-14 13:18:53 EDT, you write:
>
><<   With my 455 (mostly stock, fully
> rebuilt with 10.1CR pistons, 272/280 AD .448/.472 lift, stock exaust
> manifolds, dual exaust,  >>
>
>Igor, what brand cam are you using? Did you use the stock valvetrain?
>(springs, pushrods) How do you like lower end power as opposed to stock,
and
>how high do you typically rev it?Just curious, going to be doing my 403
SOON.
>Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 18:36:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Daily driver

Sorry gang.....losing my mind here.....Will whoever was wanting the
daily driver "close to Tenn." please contact me...found a couple of
interesting prospects.....
         SMAN



==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 21:37:02 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: High Rev's and W's

New member here, not a mechanic, just love the cars. Ignorant, but trying to
learn...Picked up my 71 442 convertible on Saturday. Bought it in Maine 6
weeks ago, but didn't make it home to Mass. Had the motor rebuilt and now runs
great, BUT... The guy who rebuilt it said he thought I must have a 4.11 rear
end because the engine (455) revs real high on the highway. At 60 mph, sounds
like it's working hard (no tach). He said it was built for take-off and is not
a highway car. Does this mean I have to limit top speed to 60-65 when I do
take it on the highway?

Also, can I get a rundown on the W's (as in W-30, etc.)? Don't know what they
mean, don't know for sure what I have.  TIA, Scott.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 19:50:08 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 403 motor

The cam is Speed Pro CS1024 but is the same grind as Lunati Cam.  Lots of
bottom end, a bit more then stock, no top end, decent fuel economy.  Yes,
the valvetrain is stock with 3-angle valve job.  Stock pushrods, springs,
valves, new rockers.  I ported and polished the exaust side of the heads.
Did vary little work to the intake side.  The cam is just too small for this
engine.  Great idle and economy.  However, with a 12 inch converter (which I
can't even try to use cause tires won't hold) and 3.23s, I am always above
2500 RPM and that is when I suspect the powerband peaks.  If I shift at
3000RPM at WOT (could do with stock vac. modulator. it was toast) the tires
would crimp pretty good when it hits second and a little when third.  Now,
with new modulator, I can shift at 4000+ and the tires don't make a sound.
Why? Peak powerband too low in RPMs.  I shift it at 4000, maybe 4500, but
there is really no point.  It pulls awsome to 3000, then okay to 3800,
nothing above that.  I imagine that in a 403 this cam will feel a little
bigger and little more rev. happy.  I will put it in my 307 Regency when I
change it though. With stock converter and 2.41 posi I had in there befoure,
this engine would have been great with this cam.  Good pep off the line (for
2.41s) and awsome top speed with 4000RPM being plenty to shift at.  Now, I
just want to shift at 5000RPM and have it pull 2200-5000.   Might have to
change my valvetrain a bit but have no money right now.  Anyways, good luck.
I did the motor, tranny and rear end myself for the first time and it came
out okay.  By the way, a 403 was my first choice but ended up getting a 455
for free (core of course).  Can't complain at that.  Igor.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/200r4/propane)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (367/727/4.10s)

- -----Original Message-----
From: DYeager535@aol.com <DYeager535@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 14, 1998 11:46 AM
Subject: Re: 403 motor


>In a message dated 98-09-14 13:18:53 EDT, you write:
>
><<   With my 455 (mostly stock, fully
> rebuilt with 10.1CR pistons, 272/280 AD .448/.472 lift, stock exaust
> manifolds, dual exaust,  >>
>
>Igor, what brand cam are you using? Did you use the stock valvetrain?
>(springs, pushrods) How do you like lower end power as opposed to stock,
and
>how high do you typically rev it?Just curious, going to be doing my 403
SOON.
>Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 18:57:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Locks and Questions....

Hi gang,
      Got a question for you guys (& Gals), I've developed a WHINE in
rev and drive,park and neutral are  fine and quiet....it's a
200-R4.Anybody ever had that kinda problem before...?
       If anyone ever has any lock probs,I will do what I can....for
my cost.That includes if you want cars keyed alike,etc.Ign., trunk,2
doors and glovebox usually costs around $20-$30 my cost.Thats for new
locks.
                Any input on the tranny would be appreciated.
                SMAN




==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1483
*********************************
