Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1447


oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, August 25 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1447



Re: Disc in Rear - another possibility (was:RE: )
Re: Got a good question contd.
tearin it down
Re: Got a good question contd.
Re: tearin it down
Crank Mods
Compression Issues, was: from Flat-Tops was  Pistons questions
72 Gas Cap
4sale or trade
RE: 72 Gas Cap
colors...
Crank Mods
RE: colors...
Emission Test of 72 Gas Cap
Re: 72 Gas Cap
torque converter/engine/trans rebuild
RE: Tongue twister (was: Don't blame me, I voted Republican)
RE: 72 Gas Cap
Re: tearin it down
Re: colors...
1941 Olds
TEST]
value of wheels?
Re: Got a good question contd.
Re: tacking out seats
IGNITION H*LP
Heads forsale!
UPDATE aluminum heads!
RE: WOO-HOO!!! Getting a 1970 Cutlass for $300!!! - Now performan ce tips
Re: rear disc
Re: Disc in Rear - another possibility (was:RE: )
Re: Don't re-gap spark plugs??
Re: IGNITION H*LP
Re: Compression from Flat-Tops was  Pistons questi
JWO - More Questions than Answers
Re: trans fluid leak solved and 350 for sale!
Re: trans fluid leak solved and 350 for sale!
Here she comes...............
RE: JWO - More Questions than Answers
SSIs? (Was: RE: JWO - More Questions than Answers
Re: Here she comes...............
RE: SSIs? (Was: RE: JWO - More Questions than Answers
RE: Compression from Flat-Tops was  Pistons questi
Re: Compression from Flat-Tops was Pistons questi
More on Illinois Emissions Tests
Re: UPDATE aluminum heads!
Re: UPDATE aluminum heads!
Re: 72 Gas Cap
URL Corrections for Illinois Emissions Info
Re: tearin it down
Re: More on Illinois Emissions Tests
Re: color for 68 valve covers?
RE: trans fluid leak solved and 350 for sale!
Re: Don't re-gap spark plugs???
A couple questions for the folks in Olds land
Re: Don't re-gap spark plugs???

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 07:33:46 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Disc in Rear - another possibility (was:RE: )

the reason your disc drum combo appears to work better is because you are
not equipped with antilock brakes when the drums heat up the brakes will
fade this is not to say that they wont work but their capacity will diminish
but they will still work this is not to say that disc disc would be better
but it works very well on corvettes from 66 up so basically I wont say to
change or not do whatever you want and can afford
- -----Original Message-----
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com <BIGJERMES@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 24, 1998 8:23 PM
Subject: Re: Disc in Rear - another possibility (was:RE: )


>In a message dated 8/24/98 4:35:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>blaines@strata3d.com writes:
>
><< I have to agree here.  I've done a complete overhaul on my brakes (disc
up
> front, drums in the rear) and let me tell you... my car stops BETTER and
> FASTER than most new cars in any given situation.  There is *nothing*
wrong
> with the original braking system in a '68 - '72 car (with front disks,
> anyway).  I think rear disks are a waste of time and money.  That's just
my
> p.o., though.
>  >>
>
>all that is true, but how many oldsmobiles do you see with rear disk
brakes?
>i wouldnt mind having them on mine just because nobody else has 'em.
>jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 07:49:09 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Got a good question contd.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, August 24, 1998 8:07 PM
Subject: Re: Got a good question for you guys


ok what happened is this the car was going down the road under accel then
just died the vehicle then rolled to a stop at the point where the car
stopped the check eng and gen lights came on the starter cranks the
distributor sparks and the fuel flows this has me pretty well stumped if it
cranks has spark and fuel then it should work so I checked the compression
it has 145# cranking this seems to me to let out anything mechanical (maybe)
the engine cranks like all the plugs are out of it
then it acts like someone pulled in a lot of advance it rolls over slow for
abour 3 revs and then spins free again then repeats but it wont fire and run
I dont get it...kk

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 11:19:38 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: tearin it down

I started tearing down the 455 the other day. It has 85,000 original miles
on it. I can't believe the internal condition of this motor! No carbon build
up o the pistons or in the chambers. No coked oil in the heads or block. The
lifters came out from the top very easily with no marking on the bottoms.
The original aluminum/plastic timing chain cam gear is in excellent shape
(no, I won't re-use it). The cylinders have almost no ridge at all and you
can still see the original crosshatch in the cylinders. It looks as though
this motor could run another 85,000 with only minor maintenance. Boy do
those '75 pistons have BIG dishes though. I might make ashtrays out of the
TOPS of these pistons by cutting off the top at the first ring groove. Too
bad I don't smoke. One thing I noticed however, each piston has two notched
on the top at the front of the piston. It almost looks like a place to put a
cigarette :-). I'm curious, does anyone know the purpose of these notches?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 11:22:52 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Got a good question contd.

Broken cam gear teeth? That would give those symptoms.


- -----Original Message-----

>
>ok what happened is this the car was going down the road under accel then
>just died the vehicle then rolled to a stop at the point where the car
>stopped the check eng and gen lights came on the starter cranks the
>distributor sparks and the fuel flows this has me pretty well stumped if it
>cranks has spark and fuel then it should work so I checked the compression
>it has 145# cranking this seems to me to let out anything mechanical
(maybe)
>the engine cranks like all the plugs are out of it
>then it acts like someone pulled in a lot of advance it rolls over slow for
>abour 3 revs and then spins free again then repeats but it wont fire and
run
>I dont get it...kk
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 11:22:56 -0400
From: Joseph Gambaccini <jgambaccini@ci.richmond.va.us>
Subject: Re: tearin it down

i remember seeing this in the chassis service manual for my '72.  i
think they're identification marks, if i remember correctly.  there were
pics of pistons with either one or two notches.


Ed Binnix wrote:
>
> One thing I noticed however, each piston has two notched
> on the top at the front of the piston. It almost looks like a place to put a
> cigarette :-). I'm curious, does anyone know the purpose of these notches?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 10:25:27 -0500
From: "Reed, Steve" <sreed@cp.varco.com>
Subject: Crank Mods

> Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 15:09:38 -0500
> From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
> Subject: Re:

>>Keep in mind the biggest hurdle you will have to deal with is
>>having the automatic crankshaft machined to accept a 4 speed's pilot
>>shaft.

> Not a problem anymore.  Supercars Unltd. sells a special bearing that
fits
> where the end of the converter would normaly set.  You then eliminate
a small
> amount off the end of the tranny shaft.  I have seen a bearing like
this in
> Springfield this year and it looks like the hot set up.  This is
definitely a
> "at home with regular tools" conversion.

> Dave Wyatt
> 70  4-4-2>

Dave,
	I didn't know about this bearing/bushing.  I wouldn't be to wild
about cutting the input shaft of my M-22 to accommodate the swap.

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 11:34:43 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Compression Issues, was: from Flat-Tops was  Pistons questions

In a message dated 98-08-24 23:13:54 EDT, you write:

<<  It's being built to hunt down, and devour 79-93 Ford Fox Bodied 5.Slow
Mustangs...  <G> Camaros and Firebirds are a dinner mint. >>

Ah.
A project with a definite goal.
Quite commendable.

It is my understanding that a car that can acheive 13's in the 1/4 mile is
sufficient for this.
Not really a stretch.
Especially as you can do this with a cam that is also streetable.
Or so says SOM. Cams were pretty severe back then, but not as sophisticated as
they are now.

 "> Do you really need such high comp?
  > What is your intended application?"

<< Street/Strip.  I would like to push the car into the low 8's.  But
streetability must still be readily availible..  Gas is no real problem right
now, and work's on 15 miles from home, so feasibly, I am aiming to build
street legal hi-po 455.  The only experience I have with the 455 is the guy
down at the track leading me in directions I am unsure of.. >>

Karl hopes you mean 1/8 mile 8 second journeys.
Else you may be working across purposes.

High compression, for example.

I have stock 10.25:1, and find that premium gasoline (93 Octane when I find
it) actually gives me better mileage.
[determined that while spedo cable intact]
I seem to recall that in the mid Seventies, (dim recollection for the then
infant Karl-monster) leaded gas was available in 96 octane!

What I am driving at here is that gas IS becoming a problem for the hi-comp
street vehicles, as the proper fuel is non-existant! Not to mention oxygenated
gasoline, gasahol, gas with 10% ethanol, and the other ersatz modern
additives.

You have prolly seen pics of Bob Handren's great yellow beast. (Karl
apologizes again for being born without a memory). The reason I mention it is
that it is WAY fast, and runs 8:1 compression, if I dimly recall right.

For true streetability, 9:1 or 10:1 would be just fine, as there is still
STANDARD fuel available that can be used to fullest advantage by these.

Further, you would not need to pay the high $$$ for forged flat-tops.

On the other hand, if you dream of beating out "the guy with the 455" at the
track, then......

Well, just have your credit card handy.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 11:00:38 -0500
From: Rick Kromeich <rickk@ecg.csg.mot.com>
Subject: 72 Gas Cap

Karl asked how they tested the cap - they pull it off the car and screw
it onto a small handheld device. Apparently the guy at the emissions
testing said it didn't lock into place properly therefore it wouldn't
have a proper seal.  Meaning it probably would allow fumes to escape, I
quess.  My cap isn't vented so I assume the tank is.  Illinois just
started this as part of the tesing procedure for all cars.  I'll buy a
new cap and give it a try again real soon.  Just don't like going to
testing, as you never know what can happen.

- --
Rick

72 Cutlass Supreme Conv't

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 09:09:01 -0700
From: "David Seiver - Account Executive" <DavidS@AnaServe.com>
Subject: 4sale or trade

4 14"x7" rally rims - white with all chrome rings and pieces. excelent
condition!
2 barrel carb and manifold(intake) for a 425 big block.
southern california
newport beach

David Seiver
Account Representative
AnaServe, Inc. - The Future of Web Hosting
Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283
Fax: 714.250.7265
e-mail: davids@anaserve.com
Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 11:11:10 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: 72 Gas Cap

Did they give you a hard time about the gas cap.  I had my 71 tested back in
97 and my gas cap was pretty old, but they never check it though.  What
engine setup do you have?  The reason I ask is because I had another engine
put in my 71 and I did some work to it, ya know, cam, hi compression piston
and stuff like that.  They shouldn't give me a hard time about that because
it still legal, right?
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
17 Wins 11 Losses
======================


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Rick Kromeich [SMTP:rickk@ecg.csg.mot.com]
	Sent:	Tuesday, August 25, 1998 11:01 AM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	72 Gas Cap

	Karl asked how they tested the cap - they pull it off the car and
screw
	it onto a small handheld device. Apparently the guy at the emissions
	testing said it didn't lock into place properly therefore it
wouldn't
	have a proper seal.  Meaning it probably would allow fumes to
escape, I
	quess.  My cap isn't vented so I assume the tank is.  Illinois just
	started this as part of the tesing procedure for all cars.  I'll buy
a
	new cap and give it a try again real soon.  Just don't like going to
	testing, as you never know what can happen.

	--
	Rick

	72 Cutlass Supreme Conv't

	

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 11:38:28 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: colors...

What is the original color for the following parts in my engine
compartment of an 68 cutlass s:

- - oil filler tube,
- - "belt wheel" on the front of the motor,
- - timing gear cover,
- - timing pointer,
- - alternator mount,
- - power steering pump and mount
- - flywheel

Thanks a lot!
George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 11:51:15 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Crank Mods

>I didn't know about this bearing/bushing.  I wouldn't be to wild
>about cutting the input shaft of my M-22 to accommodate the swap.

Steve,
Here is the reply I got from Greg Rollins some time ago.  As you will read the
mod is not major.  There is quite a bit of tip on the end of those Muncie
input shafts and it should leave more than enough to work with a standard
pilot bushing later if need be.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2


>>Dave,
>>Our pilot bearing adapter uses the torque converter centering ring in the
end of
>>the crankshaft.  The normal procedure for installing the adapter requires
removing
>>approx. 1/4 to 3/8" from the transmissions input shaft.  This is required
because
>>an automatic crank does not have the depth to accommodate the manual trans
input
>>shaft.  However, since your crank has already been machined for this, our
bearing
>>adapter would require no machining or modifications at all for your
application.
>>And would permanently eliminate all the problems associated with the
mis-machined
>>crankshaft.
>>Price is $36.50  Got them in stock.

>>Sincerely,

>>Greg Rollin
>>Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
>>http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
>>E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 11:51:54 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: colors...

>- oil filler tube,
gold
>- "belt wheel" on the front of the motor,
water pump pulley is black
crank pulley is gold
>- timing gear cover,
gold
>- timing pointer,
pretty sure gold
>- alternator mount,
pretty sure gold at least on a non a/c car which mine is
on an a/c car the upper mount is black and I believe the bottom is black
also
>- power steering pump and mount
black
>- flywheel
gold overspray, at least mine on my 69 is

I am not 100% sure on these, though.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN

work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31 now safely at home
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 12:53:45 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Emission Test of 72 Gas Cap

In a message dated 98-08-25 12:02:28 EDT, you write:

<< they pull it off the car and screw it onto a small handheld device. >>

And what year Ch*tty Cravatte is the hand-held device a reproduction of?

I beg to differ!

26 model years later they take your cap and say "Oh darn! It does not fit our
Machine!"???????

Some emission testing officials need to spend more for the crack that they are
smoking. The cheap stuff is corroding their brains!

If I have offended listmembers by typing this, I am NOT sorry.

Karl does believe in clean emissions.
He will use dual cats when he goes to dual exhaust.

BUT there should be some sanity in the methods of testing!

Like a "control" gas cap for the model year 1972!

Rick?
No, it is not my car.
BUT this sounds like an unfair test.
Provide them with another (preferrably borrowed, or visit a good salvage
yarde) gas cap that will fail. Tell them it IS new!

(((I honestly believe that the best repro caps, as well as NOS caps will also
fail!)))

But then Karl is altogether too glad that there was no testing n 1965.

Rick?
Good luck in your quest!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 13:05:26 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 72 Gas Cap

In a message dated 98-08-25 12:12:42 EDT, you write:

<<  The reason I ask is because I had another engine put in my 71 and I did
some work to it, ya know, cam, hi compression piston and stuff like that.
They shouldn't give me a hard time about that because it still legal, right?
>>

In Illinois, it is my understanding that you must pass the emisions that were
specified for the year of manufacture. Getting a 1971 or 1972 car to pass
should be relatively easy.

That ends the easy part.
My brother's 68 Charger.
He had the block bored out, and insists it is a "new" motor (heads, et alii)
and that he needs to pass emissions.

Karl: "Rrrrr????"

((Incidentally, SOM starts better than the brother's Charger or 80's
Camaroon))

Dunno why he feels a 1968 car has emissions standards in IL.
He did fail once or twice.

Sam?
Is your 1971 classified as an "Antique Vehicle?"
Karl not know for certain, but emissions may be different.

Otherwise, trying to pass emissions with a strong cam might be difficult...

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 13:14:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: Edwin R Burger <erb22@dunx1.ocs.drexel.edu>
Subject: torque converter/engine/trans rebuild

Hello all,

I dropped the 422 motor ('70 455) off last week to be
rebuilt.  I asked the guy there to warm over the engine, and then some.
He's putting in 11:1 crowler flat top pistons, a level 3 crowler cam/lifters
(goes in a package with the pistons), grinding the crank, new bearings
all around, new freeze plugs, new oil pump, etc.  What kind of HP and
torque figures can I expect?

I had the transmission rebuilt at the same time, with a street/strip shit
kit installed.  While it's all apart, should I replace the torque
converter?  What would I want to replace it with?  FWIW, I plan to drive
the car everyday.

TIA,
Ed

PS.  I have access to a free B&M ratchet shifter.  Should I replace the
stock (much nicer looking) shifter with the B&M?  What performance
benefits does the B&M have?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 10:33:52 PDT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Tongue twister (was: Don't blame me, I voted Republican)

Hi Guy,

Get a Hotmail or USAnet account.  You go to the website and sign up or
use Juno for a free e-mail account.  If you have a computer and modem
you don't need a isp for juno to have an account.

Justa thought,

Chris Rivier
'66 Delta 88...The BEAST
'88 Festiva...ZIPPY 165K+@40mpg


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 12:41:37 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: 72 Gas Cap

	How do I get the  "Antique Vehicle"  status anyway?

======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
17 Wins 11 Losses
======================


	
	Sam?
	Is your 1971 classified as an "Antique Vehicle?"
	Karl not know for certain, but emissions may be different.

	Otherwise, trying to pass emissions with a strong cam might be
difficult...

	SOM
	&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 13:48:27 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: tearin it down

Sure, at least for the 1984 model year.  The chassis manual says that the
notches are for piston orientation in the cylinder: the notches go towards
the front.

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Ed Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
To: Olds list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 11:19 AM
Subject: tearin it down


>bad I don't smoke. One thing I noticed however, each piston has two notched
>on the top at the front of the piston. It almost looks like a place to put
a
>cigarette :-). I'm curious, does anyone know the purpose of these notches?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 13:51:03 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: colors...

- - oil filler tube,

Engine color (gold in your case)

- - "belt wheel" on the front of the motor,

Do you mean the pulley?  Semigloss black

- - timing gear cover,
- - timing pointer,

Both are engine color

- - alternator mount,
- - power steering pump and mount

All are semigloss black

- - flywheel

Natural (bare) steel  (you do mean the flywheel and not the flywheel cover,
right?  I've heard of sticklers for detail, but really, who sees the
flywheel?

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 14:12:11 EDT
From: <JKMHEFF@aol.com>
Subject: 1941 Olds

Dear Sir, can you tell me where I might find an approximate value for a 1941
Olds model 66 2 door sedan. Thanks Mike Heffner

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 14:24:22 -0400
From: RAY.COSTANZO@firstunion.com
Subject: TEST]

TO: Softswitch.OAS
CC:
FROM: RAY.COSTANZO@TAOFUN1
SUBJECT:  TEST]

   Alright Ray,
   You sent this from the conferences section at 2:15.
   Better work]

   Ray Costanzo
   87 409 Cutlass














































------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 14:25:54 -0400
From: RAY.COSTANZO@firstunion.com
Subject: value of wheels?

TO: Softswitch.OAS
CC:
FROM: RAY.COSTANZO@TAOFUN1
SUBJECT:  value of wheels?

   So, i have a set of those all chrome 14" Rally wheels.  The kind wi
   thout the pop-on beauty ring or little triangular rings, the wheels
    are all one piece.  They are in good condition.  I'm pondering sel
   ling them after I replace one my cracked Centerline.  Anyone have a
   n idea of what they're worth, being rare and all?















































------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 14:29:22 EDT
From: <R4C442@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Got a good question contd.

Hey KK!
     Have you put a timing light on it to be sure that the spark is happening
at the correct time?
                                                                    Ron Forsee
                                                                    65
442-Meister

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 14:40:56 EDT
From: <KWhite5590@aol.com>
Subject: Re: tacking out seats

Rich, Jeremy,

 The easiest way to remove the seat is find the wire frame along the bottm
 front edge of seat.In the center of the seating area(not the center of the
 entire seat)for the Dvr side push the frame towards the trunk.
You will feel the notch where the frame sits in,lift up.Repeat for the
passenger
side

Kevin White
83 Cutlass supreme
FE3X clone

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 11:50:52 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: IGNITION H*LP

Here is the problem. I have a good 1000 amp battery, mounted in my trunk
with 2 guage cable running to it. A new alternator, solid state
regulator, ignition switch and others. Somewhere in my electrical loop I
am having a problem getting enough voltage to the starter. If I can get
the solenoid to function I get just a chattering at the start strains to
turn the engine over.... What could it be? All my connections are good
and as clean as I can get them. My next attempt at fixing it will be to
install a remote mounted solenoid and replace some of the wiring. Is
there a fusible link that may be going bad after 30 years? Do I need a
second battery cause of the distance even though I have a strong battery
with big cable? Any suggestions will help. Solutions will be greatly
appreciated.
The car: 68 Olds 442. Around 11:1 compression, cam, MSD, HEI distrib.
Any other particulars  you need just mail me.

Ben
62 Olds F-85(buy me soon!)
http://www.primenet.com/~olds442/forsale.html
68 Olds 442 (hard to start...)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 11:50:11 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Heads forsale!

Good working `C' heads from my 68 Olds 442. Roller tipped rockers, valve
job less than a year ago with hardened seats. Ran beautifully before I
took it off to replace them with aluminum...
Asking 450 for complete. Drop me a private email if interested.

Ben

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 11:50:58 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: UPDATE aluminum heads!

Here is the scoop. I installed my aluminum heads. Ordered my full roller
rockers, got my monsterous pushrods and got the whole assembly running!
This thing is got some more pep behind it now! It was real strong, but
now it's even stronger! I knew the aluminum heads would be awesome, but
this awesome... The car has a new exhaust note and is louder than I
imagined it... Economy wise here is how I was at stock. I ran about 3500
rpm at 85 mph. I have 3.08 rear with a TH-400. Well, I've made my mods:
Edelbrock aluminum heads (right out of the box), Full roller rockers,
headman Headers, Edelbrock performer intake and performer 750 Q-jet
carb. MSD ignition. NOW HERE IS THE KICKER!!! Yesterday just cruising
along I was at about 2900 rpm at 85!!!!! What a performance and economy
gain!!! As soon as I take my first trip (after proper break in period
and other electrical work) I'll let you know how I sit mpg wise. I had
run up to 17 on occasion, but who knows where I'm at now... Few notes,
the Mr. Gasket Desktop Dyno rates my ensamble at nearly 500 ft/lb torque
and over 400 hp, from a 400! My local speed shop (Gordie Rivera NHRA 9th
in the nation last year) said I should be able to run low 12s or 11s
with the proper rear end... That is some awesome chunk of steel I've got
for a car! Next... The electrcal problems need to be ironed out...

Ben
62 Olds f-85
http://www.primenet.com/~olds442/forsale.html
68 Olds 442, bad ass engine, just needs body and interior work now...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 13:51:43 -0500
From: Chad Schwartz <ChadS@pcsco.com>
Subject: RE: WOO-HOO!!! Getting a 1970 Cutlass for $300!!! - Now performan ce
tips

>Give me some tips guys, what should I do to make this thing scream
>without getting too involved with machinework and such?:

>Pull the back seat
>Get Performer RPM manifold
>Edelbrock 750 CFM carb
>280H .490 lift Comp Cam
>3.73 Gear/Posi
>Stage 2 TransPak (trans cooler???)

???More Input????:

You have a good list going.  Here are some more ideas to consider:

HEI Accel or MSD ignition coil
HEI Accel or MSD ignition module
Accel or MSD Ignition wires
High Performance Ignition recurve kit
Headers with 2 ½" dual exhaust and good flowing mufflers
Pinion snubber shimmed up to gap €" - ½" from pinion with full weight on
suspension
Air bag in each rear coil.  Adjust drivers side 5-7 psi  Passenger side
9-11 psi
Sticky DOT's (traction is half the battle - don't want smoky burnouts!!)
Remove front sway bar
Remove air conditioning if it has it (if you want the HP savings)
2,500 stall convertor with trans cooler
K&N open element air cleaner or ram air setup
Flex fan or electric fan with 160-180 thermostat
Block off EGR ports on heads to help keep intake cool
Roller rockers
Move battery to the trunk
75-100 horsepower NOS kit
Tach
Shift Light (Best thing I ever purchased for hitting those perfect
shifts every time!)
Oil/Temp/Volt gauges

Removing just the rear seat isn't going to help much.  You will have to
remove more weight to make it worth it.  It takes 100lbs to see a 1
tenth change in e.t.  NOS is pretty safe with a stock short block if
kept 100 or below.  My friend has a '80 Cutlass with a bone stock 350
Chevy including pistons, crank, rods, rings, and all cast.  Uses a NOS
kit set at 125 horsepower.  Been through 5 bottles so far without a
problem.  It's all in having a big enough fuel source, retarding the
timing, and tuning.  He actually just uses a Carter high volume
mechanical fuel pump.  His e.t.'s go from 14.5 to 12.8 in the ¼ mile
when used.  Smoking a Mustang isn't that tuff.  My H/O out ran them hard
core with the built 350 Olds.  My car is now over 1 second faster so
they are not worries at all anymore unless very highly modified.  Most
Mustangs only run high 14's or slower stock.

Hope this helps some.  E-mail me if you have anymore questions.  I'm
sure I have more ideas but I'm running out of time right now.  Good
luck!

Chad Schwartz
chads@pcsco.com <mailto:chads@pcsco.com>
mIRC: ROCKN6
Denison, IA
'87 GN  T-Tops (TE-44, 40lb Inj, Modified Stock IC, ATR Cam, JC Chip,
                          ATR 2 ½" SS Exhaust, TH 3" DP, 3" Test Pipe,
ATR
                          Ram Air)
'79 H/O T-Tops (400 HP/430 TQ ZZ4 350 H.O. Chevy, TH350, 3.73 Posi)

"Poverty Is Owning A Race Car"  "Happiness Is A Low E.T."

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 14:54:46 EDT
From: <KWhite5590@aol.com>
Subject: Re: rear disc

Doug,
 try Vette Brakes and Products,and Performance Suspension Technologies.
 THey both offer rear disc kits for A+G body cars.Fbody cars are also an
option.

Kevin White
83 Cutlass Supreme
FE3X clone

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 14:59:56 EDT
From: <KWhite5590@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Disc in Rear - another possibility (was:RE: )

Jeremy,

The FE3X Cutlass has them.
And so will mine.
From F-body

Kevin White
83 Cutlass Supreme
FE3X clone

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 14:14:01 -0500
From: Chad Schwartz <ChadS@pcsco.com>
Subject: Re: Don't re-gap spark plugs??

>When I installed my Rapidfires, I did not re-gap them...and the engine
ran
>like trash.  I didn't try to mess with them again, I just threw the
AC's
>back on.  Based on personal experience, don't put them on at all, but
if you
>would really like to, I guess I'd try to re-gap them.  Disclaimers
here,
>though.  Mine ran like trash when I installed them out of the
box...doesn't
>mean yours will, too.

My recommendation is to stay away from "gimmick" plugs like Split-Fires,
Rapid-Fires, Platinum, etc.  Stay with AC standard plugs.  They have
always worked the best for me and most others.  Only thing I may do is
go up or down in heat ranges or change the gaps.  Anything but AC plugs
makes either of my cars go nuts.  If you want a longer lasting plug see
if they make a CR version which is the commercial grade plug that is
"beefier".

Chad Schwartz
chads@pcsco.com <mailto:chads@pcsco.com>
mIRC: ROCKN6
Denison, IA
'87 GN  T-Tops (TE-44, 40lb Inj, Modified Stock IC, ATR Cam, JC Chip,
                          ATR 2 ½" SS Exhaust, TH 3" DP, 3" Test Pipe,
ATR
                          Ram Air)
'79 H/O T-Tops (400 HP/430 TQ ZZ4 350 H.O. Chevy, TH350, 3.73 Posi)

"Poverty Is Owning A Race Car"  "Happiness Is A Low E.T."

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 15:16:23 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: IGNITION H*LP

ben I have the same you have . I ran a ground to the starter also and it
cured it. Down the road I put in a after market high torque starter. best
200 bucks I spent on the whole project. btw my 68 runs 12.36 with C heads
455 ,cant wait to install alu heads
 Butch 68  442  post

Ben wrote:

> Here is the problem. I have a good 1000 amp battery, mounted in my trunk
> with 2 guage cable running to it. A new alternator, solid state
> regulator, ignition switch and others. Somewhere in my electrical loop I
> am having a problem getting enough voltage to the starter. If I can get
> the solenoid to function I get just a chattering at the start strains to
> turn the engine over.... What could it be? All my connections are good
> and as clean as I can get them. My next attempt at fixing it will be to
> install a remote mounted solenoid and replace some of the wiring. Is
> there a fusible link that may be going bad after 30 years? Do I need a
> second battery cause of the distance even though I have a strong battery
> with big cable? Any suggestions will help. Solutions will be greatly
> appreciated.
> The car: 68 Olds 442. Around 11:1 compression, cam, MSD, HEI distrib.
> Any other particulars  you need just mail me.
>
> Ben
> 62 Olds F-85(buy me soon!)
> http://www.primenet.com/~olds442/forsale.html
> 68 Olds 442 (hard to start...)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 02:48:57 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Compression from Flat-Tops was  Pistons questi

That's very true, there is no such thing as an 8 second street car.
Recently this topic has been really starting to pee me off. This is not
aimed at you, but countless others who claim that they have a 10 second/9
second/ 11 second strret car. Most are Mustang goofs. They think if they
put on flowmasters and a monster tach on the dash, the car is a 9-11 second
car. Well the sad part is that the car is nothing more than maybe a 15 high
14 second car. I always hear them talking at the car show places"Yeah this
thing runs 10's, no spray". It's all BS.

The part I love is that when theses guys go to the track and run 15's, they
will make up excuses "Oh I need to tune my car up". They can't comprehend
that there car is slow and can't face reality.

Anyway off my soapbox. You can't have a 8 second/9second/10 second "street
car" and drive it readily on the street. Think in more REALISTIC terms. IF
JOE MONDELLO"S CAR RUNS LOW 10's AND HE"S GOT A 455 BUILT WITH ALOT OF
$$$$$ AND THE VO TWISTER IS NOT A STREETABLE CAR. THE BLOCK IS FILLED. IT
CAN"T BE DRIVEN ON THE SREET FOR ANY LONG PERIOD OF TIME. If you have $6000
you can build a 10 second 455 motor. But it will not be streetable by any
means. That's a fact. If not ask Dick Miller of Joe MOndello. I believe
with 25plus years of racing, they know what they are talking about.....
 Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Ed Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Compression from Flat-Tops was  Pistons questi
> Date: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 10:06 AM
>
> Running 8's in a streetable car is not truly feasible. Oh, you can make
it
> street legal. But to actually drive it around town, you would find it
> exhilarating at first, then annoying after the initial novelty wore off.
> Overheating engine, slipping torque converter, radical 1500 RPM idle,
loud
> exhaust, NO bottom end power, racing gas ($3.50-$5.50 per gallon), no gas
> mileage, and a high revving engine all adds up to a pain in the butt on
the
> street. It takes a really hot car to get into the 9's much more so the
8's.
> Of course, I'm assuming that you're talking about the quarter mile and
not
> the eighth mile. 8's in the eighth mile are easily achieved. Simply my
> observant opinion.
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> >
> >Street/Strip.  I would like to push the car into the low 8's.  But
> >streetability must still be readily availible..  Gas is no real problem
> >right now, and work's on 15 miles from home, so feasibly, I am aiming to
> >build street legal hi-po 455.  The only experience I have with the 455
> >is the guy down at the track leading me in directions I am unsure of..
> >Not having an excess of actual MOTOR knowledge, I tend to believe his
> >ideas will work...
> >
> >Reading heavily now...  FAQ included.
> >--
> >                - Jerry Christopher -
> >IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
> >       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI
> >
> >
> >
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 17:01:20 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: JWO - More Questions than Answers

Got my Sept. JWO today, the first since the changes in the editorial
area. There is a lot of mention of the unexpected resignation of former
editor Penny Casteele, the disconnection of JWO fax and phone #s, the
packing and shipping of all editorial and membership files to new OCA
prez Greg Childs in Utah, and the news that membership renewal records
might take some time to sort out. The new editor even mentioned that he
has no backlog of articles, that the articles, classifieds and ad records
for Sept. were lost, and that he had to write a lot of the issue himself.
Even faxed ads to the former OCA fax number may have been lost. In short,
a real mess.

What wasn't mentioned was what the heck happened to cause this.

On the good news front is the news that JWO now has an email address for
submission of articles and classifieds: jwo@primary.net

Given the turmoil it's amazing this issue got out at all. The new editor,
Clay Mollman, deserves a lot of credit for pulling it all together so
quickly. But the reasons behind all this need some explanation to OCA
members. Hopefully the full story will be known someday.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 03:00:21 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: trans fluid leak solved and 350 for sale!

I think the gut is a SCAM ARTISIT. 650 HP from the MOTOR ALONE on a 455 for
$1800 hust sounds like a complete SCAM. THe numerous people who I know had
the 455 rebuilt with new parts cost around $3000-$5000 (head work
included). The motors put out between 350HP-480HP. This guy is feeding you
CRAP. Go to Mondello's web-site at read the article on the 455 motor that
made 750HP. THe parts and $$$ he has in that thing is about $10,000 or
maybe more!

If this guys tells you that 455 motor makes 650HP he is trying to rip you
off. When and how that motor has been rebuilt is unknown. IT could not even
work or work for a day or so. WHAT'S FOR SURE IS THAT THING DOES NOT MAKE
650 HP.......
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: trans fluid leak solved and 350 for sale!
> Date: Monday, August 24, 1998 3:34 PM
>
> Thanks to all those who offered advice on my trans lfuid leak. Turned out
to
> be a worn seal that had to be replaced. While I was there, I saw an
engine
> uder wraps, asked what it was, and was told it was a 455 with racing cam,
new
> pistons timing chain, etc., that would put out about 650 hp. (That is
what he
> said). Told me it would fit right into my 75 Delta 88 w/ duals.
Questions:
>
> 1) said he would sell it to me for his cost. $1800. Is that the right
price?
> 2) Could I sell the 350 I currently have to help defray the cost.
> 3) My gut tells me I should jump all over this. Should I?
>
> Please  give me your experience on this one.
> TIA
> Bruce
> 75 Delta 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 03:04:08 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: trans fluid leak solved and 350 for sale!

It sounds like the guy does not know what he is talking about. If he
recommends a 700 of 750 cfm carb for that "650HP" motor, he is talking BS.
For a motor that supposedly(DOES NOT) puts out 650HP, a cfm carb in the
900cfm range needs to be used. I would stay clear of this guy, he sounds
like a Pep Boys mechanic.....
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: trans fluid leak solved and 350 for sale!
> Date: Monday, August 24, 1998 4:26 PM
>
> In a message dated 98-08-24 17:18:32 EDT, you write:
>
> << I have a 73 Delta and want a 455 myself. It's a great idea but be
prepared
> to
>  change
>  tranny if you've got a 350 tranny. In the long run it won't stand up to
the
>  power that the seller claims. Best of luck!
>
>  >>
> Wood,
> I have a TH400. He suggests I replace my quadrajet with a holly 700 or
750,
> What do you think. Any other problems to look out for?
> Thanks
> Bruce
> 75 Delta 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 16:06:30 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Here she comes...............

OK East coast dwellers..!! It's time for us to batten down the
hatches and hang on....Here comes Bonnie.........!!!!

Cover your Olds and don't park under any trees..!!

Michael..............................!




       "Still crazy.......after all these years......"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 15:09:43 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: JWO - More Questions than Answers

Yes, I got mine yesterday and have looked it over briefly.  I was also
wondering what has happened.  Didn't Greg Childs (while at Nats) post
something to the list saying as soon as he finds out details he'll let
us know?

>submission of articles and classifieds: jwo@primary.net
This is good, as now I don't have an excuse for not placing an ad.
>

Hey, Greg B., did you see the post today that someone is selling a set
of SSIs?

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31 finally safely at home
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 17:14:37 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: SSIs? (Was: RE: JWO - More Questions than Answers

On Tue, 25 Aug 1998, Smetana, Christopher wrote:
> Hey, Greg B., did you see the post today that someone is selling a set
> of SSIs?

No, I saw what sounded like a set of white SSIIIs, but no SSIs. Where?


Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 16:33:42 -0400
From: Jeffrey lane <bladernr@roava.net>
Subject: Re: Here she comes...............

Batten down the Hatches???  why, I bet I can jump in the Toronado, and
sail into the storm withour fear...  it'd be like driving the U.S.S.
Nimitz through the time warp storm thingy in the movie "the Final
Countdown"!!

But I must definitely avoid trees...  they are bad for cars!


krzy4evr@usit.net wrote:
>
> OK East coast dwellers..!! It's time for us to batten down the
> hatches and hang on....Here comes Bonnie.........!!!!
>
> Cover your Olds and don't park under any trees..!!
>
> Michael..............................!
>
>        "Still crazy.......after all these years......"

- --
><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> 67 Toronado  ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><> ><>

Jeffrey Lane, EMT-ST	ICQ#12362327	http://www.roava.net/~bladernr
		bladernr@roava.net 	EMTBoy9@aol.com


Sr. Sergeant, Equipment Officer		|	EMT-ST/Driver
Fort Lewis Rescue Squad, Inc.		|	United Ambulance Service
Salem, Virginia				|	Roanoke, Virginia

"Knowledge is power.  But power corrupts, and corruption is a sin, so if
you seek knowledge, you will burn in hell. . ."

- -----------------------------Carpe Noctum------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 15:19:55 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: SSIs? (Was: RE: JWO - More Questions than Answers

These sounded like SSI to me, could be wrong though (copy of post
follows)

<start of post>
TO: Softswitch.OAS
CC:
FROM: RAY.COSTANZO@TAOFUN1
SUBJECT:  value of wheels?

   So, i have a set of those all chrome 14" Rally wheels.  The kind wi
   thout the pop-on beauty ring or little triangular rings, the wheels
    are all one piece.  They are in good condition.  I'm pondering sel
   ling them after I replace one my cracked Centerline.  Anyone have a
   n idea of what they're worth, being rare and all?

<end of post>

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31 finally safely at home
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 15:28:35 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: Compression from Flat-Tops was  Pistons questi

>
>That's very true, there is no such thing as an 8 second street car.
>Recently this topic has been really starting to pee me off. This is not
>aimed at you, but countless others who claim that they have a 10 second/9
<snip>

Peter, easy there no reason to get all worked up.  No reason to lose
sleep because some uneducated person makes claims about outrageuos
times.  They can make excuses all they want but hardcore numbers don't
lie.
I agree with you about these people, and I don't claim to know
everything, but I don't believe tuning a car will shave off 4 seconds to
get that claimed 11 sec timeslip.

The one thing that makes me laugh is people who think, hey if I bolt on
a good cat back exhaust for 20hp, some pulleys for 15hp, K&N for 10hp
and headers for 25hp, they think they've added 70hp to their rides,
since each of these bolt-ons claim this particular gain.  EHHHH, wrong
guess.  Doesn't work that way.


Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31 finally safely at home
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 16:50:35 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: Compression from Flat-Tops was Pistons questi

All this discussion about streetable cars is quite true.  I believe Dick Miller
had his car at Norwalk last week.  His was the fastest car there--I saw him run
a 9.03.  It was not a street car by any stretch, at least if street means
driving for more than 1/4 mile.

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 16:39:36 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: More on Illinois Emissions Tests

Howdy Fellow Olds

I did some surfing and found some info on emissions testing in
Illinois.  Hopefully, it can be insightful to those of you in other
Mid-western states.  Instead of trying to elaborate, I am just listing
the URL's of the pertinent locations.
First,   http://ipcb.il.us/title35/b240.htm .  This is the text of the
vehicle testing regulation itself.  This document indicates testing
beginning at model year 1968 and outlines the emissions requirements for
each year.  Its a long document, but informative.

Second,  http://www.epa.state.il.us/vim/faq.html .  This is the Illinois
EPA website.  The link I've put here goes right to the vehicle emissions
FAQ page.  It somewhat details the test procedures and locations within
the state that require testing.  I seems they check the car first and
start looking deeper only if it fails.  Things others have told me tend
to confirm this. Currently, the only locations in the state that are
testable are the Chicago area and East St. Louis area because these are
the only places in the state that don't meet Federal standards.  This
makes sense to me.  As an Illinois native, I can say the rest of the
state is mostly corn fields and a few scattered
cities/towns/villages...Frankly, I can't wait to move back.

I hope this answers some questions.  It answered some of mine.

Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 17:07:31 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: UPDATE aluminum heads!

> NOW HERE IS THE KICKER!!! Yesterday just cruising
>along I was at about 2900 rpm at 85!!!!! What a performance and economy
>gain!!! As soon as I take my first trip (after proper break in period

Ben, your review is interesting and I'm glad you finally got the heads up and
running.  However, I don't see how RPMs can drop from 3500 to 2900 with the
mods you've done.  RPMs at a given MPH have nothing to do with ignition,
rockers, heads, etc and everything to do with rear end ratio, tire height, and
other gears.  What gives?

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 17:29:48 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: UPDATE aluminum heads!

I wonder if it has to do with a lower power band, making more horsepower
across a broader spectrum. Torque converters react to engine modifications.
However, a car with more torque increases the stall speed of a converter,
not the other way around (unless I misunderstand the concept). For all I
know the car could be a 4 speed. But if it's a manual, I suspect that the
difference is in the relationship between the engine mods and the torque
converter. Also, you shaved a good bit of weight in the change. Maybe it the
thingamabob behind the whosits that changes that whatchimacallit so that it
does this weird RPM thingy. That's my wife's explanation and could have more
merit than mine.

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Comid <Comid>
Date: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 5:08 PM
Subject: Re: UPDATE aluminum heads!


>
>Received: from halifax.chebucto.ns.ca [129.173.4.205] by jellico.com with
smtp
> id BBAHDDAA ; Tue, 25 Aug 1998 17:07:52 -0500
>Received: by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca id <33126-292>; Tue, 25 Aug 1998
18:05:11 -0300
>Received: from smtp4.ny.us.ibm.com ([198.133.22.43]:2166 "EHLO
smtp4.ny.us.ibm.COM" ident: "TIMEDOUT") by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca with ESMTP
id <34203-357>; Tue, 25 Aug 1998 18:04:14 -0300
>Received: from relay3.server.ibm.com (relay3.server.ibm.com [9.14.2.100])
> by smtp4.ny.us.ibm.COM (8.8.7/8.8.7) with ESMTP id QAA36896
> for <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; Tue, 25 Aug 1998 16:54:05 -0400
>Received: from US.IBM.COM (d04lms01.raleigh.ibm.com [9.37.164.193])
> by relay3.server.ibm.com (8.8.7/8.8.7) with SMTP id RAA34952
> for <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; Tue, 25 Aug 1998 17:03:40 -0400
>Received: by US.IBM.COM (Soft-Switch LMS 2.0) with snapi via D04AU003
>          id 5040100021791152; Tue, 25 Aug 1998 17:07:31 -0400
>From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Subject: Re: UPDATE aluminum heads!
>Message-ID: <5040100021791152000002L022*@MHS>
>Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 17:07:31 -0400
>X-Orcpt: rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h
chebucto.ns.ca oldsmobile-mml"
>Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>
>> NOW HERE IS THE KICKER!!! Yesterday just cruising
>>along I was at about 2900 rpm at 85!!!!! What a performance and economy
>>gain!!! As soon as I take my first trip (after proper break in period
>
>Ben, your review is interesting and I'm glad you finally got the heads up
and
>running.  However, I don't see how RPMs can drop from 3500 to 2900 with the
>mods you've done.  RPMs at a given MPH have nothing to do with ignition,
>rockers, heads, etc and everything to do with rear end ratio, tire height,
and
>other gears.  What gives?
>
>Todd Morris
>71 442
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 17:02:40 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: 72 Gas Cap

You wrote;

- ----------
> From: KarlAune@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 72 Gas Cap
> Date: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 12:05 PM
>
> In a message dated 98-08-25 12:12:42 EDT, you write:
>
> <<  The reason I ask is because I had another engine put in my 71 and I
did
> some work to it, ya know, cam, hi compression piston and stuff like that.
> They shouldn't give me a hard time about that because it still legal,
right?
> >>
>
> In Illinois, it is my understanding that you must pass the emisions that
were
> specified for the year of manufacture. Getting a 1971 or 1972 car to pass
> should be relatively easy.

In Illinois 25 years is enough to be considered "antique", at least thats
what the Sec of State says. In Belleville, IL we do not have emission
testing --YET. St. Louis is on the EPA's list so it might happen, pray for
us in our hour of need.
Lou Biggs
PS How do you spell emissions, not on spell check.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 18:02:27 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: URL Corrections for Illinois Emissions Info

Hi All,

It seems I incorrectly entered the URL info on my previous post about
Illinois Vehicle Emission testing.

Here are the correct URL's:

First,  http://www.ipcb.state.il.us/title35/B240.htm

Second,   http://www.epa.state.il.us/air/vim/faq.html

I deeply regret the error.  I hope I didn't cause too much grief.

Thomas P. Smith

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 18:13:26 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: tearin it down

Ed,

The notches in the top of the piston are for identification.  In the "good
Olds days", there were different pistons available for different compression
ratios, and since almost all big blocks had some sort of dish, the different
notches made it easier to tell which pistons were in an engine.

It's been awhile since I looked at some stock pistons, but it might also be a
way to tell if the piston is installed correctly, like the arrows on top of my
TRW replacement pistons for the race engines do.

Hope this helps, and Take Care!
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 17:22:32 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: More on Illinois Emissions Tests

> Thomas P. Smith
> 1971 Cutlass S 350
Tom, Cannot get either web site to open with MS 4.01 explorer. Have
anything else. I try to check out some contacts I have with the Sec of
States office (neighbor, big wheel), if I can get any info I will transmit
to list.

Lou Biggs, in the cornfields about 6 miles from downtown St. Louis, YOU ARE
CORRECT ABOUT CHITOWN AND E ST LOUIS. Nothing in E ST Louis passes but I
believe they are immune from darn near anything.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 18:21:48 EDT
From: <KJesk@aol.com>
Subject: Re: color for 68 valve covers?

Mine too...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 17:26:39 -0500
From: Chad Schwartz <ChadS@pcsco.com>
Subject: RE: trans fluid leak solved and 350 for sale!

>Thanks to all those who offered advice on my trans lfuid leak. Turned
out to
>be a worn seal that had to be replaced. While I was there, I saw an
engine
>uder wraps, asked what it was, and was told it was a 455 with racing
cam, new
>pistons timing chain, etc., that would put out about 650 hp. (That is
what he
>said). Told me it would fit right into my 75 Delta 88 w/ duals.
Questions:

>1) said he would sell it to me for his cost. $1800. Is that the right
price?
>2) Could I sell the 350 I currently have to help defray the cost.
>3) My gut tells me I should jump all over this. Should I?

I think this guy is either trying to rip you off or is pulling your leg.
There is no way that he could build a 650 hp 455 and sell it to you for
only $1,800.  You know he is making money on it anyway with the parts he
IS using.  Could he even buy the new parts to do it for what he probably
has in it?  I highly doubt it.  Have him prove it with all the receipts
of parts he purchased for it and even have him take it apart to show you
everything.  Have him run it on a dyno and show you the results while
you are there.  I bet it's a stock rebuild with maybe a cam and intake
on it.  Sorry, but I'm not a believer.

Chad Schwartz
chads@pcsco.com <mailto:chads@pcsco.com>
mIRC: ROCKN6
Denison, IA
'87 GN  T-Tops (TE-44, 40lb Inj, Modified Stock IC, ATR Cam, JC Chip,
                          ATR 2 ½" SS Exhaust, TH 3" DP, 3" Test Pipe,
ATR
                          Ram Air)
'79 H/O T-Tops (400 HP/430 TQ ZZ4 350 H.O. Chevy, TH350, 3.73 Posi)

"Poverty Is Owning A Race Car"  "Happiness Is A Low E.T."

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 18:32:45 -0400
From: "Angel Castrodad" <angleki@prtc.net>
Subject: Re: Don't re-gap spark plugs???

>What was wrong with your splitfires?

	Well, the engine started runing like crap after a while. Besides I had 
to
take them out to re-gap then once before I replaced them because, get
this..., some of the gaps had closed up.
	Yes. I had to re-gap them because on three of them (I dont remember 
which
cyl.#) the gap had closed from 0.80" to about 0.25" or so. What caused
this??? I have no idea but I re-gapped them and a few months
later(yesterday) took them out and two of them had closed up again. And the
engine was running really rough.

	I decided to try the Rapidfires but was amazed about the small gap. I
already put them on and noticed that th engine still ran a bit rough and the
car did loose some power. I guess I'll just re-gap them anyway.

Any other suggestions???

TIA

Angel Castrodad
angleki@prtc.net
'86 442-----> 307 H.O. (5A), TH-350 (not my fault,previous owner), 3.73
rear......Ooooh, T-tops !!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 17:43:41 -0500
From: "Jim Brain" <jim_brain@csgsystems.com>
Subject: A couple questions for the folks in Olds land

*New to List Alert*

Some questions:

Can someone tell me ow hard it would be to get front and rear bumpers for a
79 supreme brogham?

My 79 needs an engine and I have a line on a 84 in great condition for
$1800.  Suggestions on whether to restore mine or move to the 84?

Was rallye wheels with Brogham common?

Interior plastic/vinyl:  Can it be bought new?

My dimlemna is that I currently have a 79 that was worn out before I got it,
but it's my High School car.  I always wanted to restore it, but now that I
have the money, I just get this feeling that I really should start with a
better base car (condition wise) to dump money into.  I found a 84 same as
my car (it has power everything, mine lack power seats), and it's in much
better shape for $1800.  I just need some comments on what other think.

Mine is in pretty bad shape.  Surface rust all over, driver door toasted,
bumpers toasted, interior shot, moon roof leaks, engine knocks, headliner
toast, tranny suspect.

The 84 has two surface rust spots, needs a headliner, and has an exhaust
gasket leak.

You see the dilemna.   Any people who've been in this situation?   Is there
some hope for my car I haven't noticed?  Body shop gave my 1500.00 estimate
to paint my 79, not including top/headliner/bumpers/interior.  I got $500.00
to paint the 84.

Final question:

Is someone looking for a 79 for some special reason?  My 79s only claim to
fame is the factory astroroof.  Anyone need glass?  I know it expensive.
The 84 has the glass as well.

Jim Brain

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Aug 1998 17:53:58 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Don't re-gap spark plugs???

Used to build and race Pro Stock engines, Did reasonably well. Never used
weird spark plugs. Ran Champions until they got on a cost cutting program ,
Got a sponsorship from another brand, car ran the same, ET's and MPH. Who
knows really, I believe just a good brand and unless you are running a
monster engine, go with the what the factory recommends for gaps.
2 cents.
Lou Biggs

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1447
*********************************
