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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1405


oldsmobile-digest       Tuesday, August 4 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1405



G-body Gauges! Again!
20 CC pump or 50 cc pump
Re: Electronic Circuit Design Needed
For Sale
Re: Re: Cool Can
Re: 20 CC pump or 50 cc pump
Re: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!
G-body W-30 hood
Date:	Tue, 4 Aug 1998 09:47:54 -0500
RE: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!
Oil drain plug HELP?
SV: I give up.
B-body discs
Re: Electronic Circuit Design Needed
Re: Electronic Circuit Design Needed
Re: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!
Re:
Re: Oil drain plug HELP?
Re: bugs in the HEI?????
Re: my baby
Re: my baby
Re: Sorry, Copy of what I was worked up about, Will do better
Re: Selling intake to friend for profit
Re: Web Links & Pics
Re: my baby
Re: 75 Omega re: Paul's comment
Re: Big Block AC brackets...
How much for a converted radio??!?!?!
Re: G-body heater hose questions
Re:
Re: Big Block AC brackets...
Re:
Re: G-body heater hose questions
Re: Brakes really squishy (Price on Cylinder rebuild)
pinging 307
RE: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!
SPRINGS 67 f85 425bb
RE: pinging 307
LIST...
Re: Anyone recognize this hood?????
Re: LIST...
Re: LIST...
Re: LIST...
OK thanks!
Power Valve? Off-Idle sys? was Re: 20 CC vs. 50 cc pump
God Loves Oldsmobilers....was DOH!
Re: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!
Re: Oil drain plug HELP?
RE: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!
Re: SPRINGS 67 f85 425bb
re: new oldsmobilia purchase
Re: God Loves Oldsmobilers....was DOH!
re: my baby

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 04:41:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: G-body Gauges! Again!

     H#lp please! Asking again: Has anyone put mechanical gauges in a
G body? I am doing this to my 86 Supreme and I want to find the best
spot to drill the hole in the firewall for the gauge lines. These
'late models' sure are tight under the dash compared to a 68-72
Cutlass! :)

Later!


==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our Oldsmobiles and more at
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 06:47:25 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: 20 CC pump or 50 cc pump

Which is better for the front of the holly carburetor. I am thinking about
changing to the 50 cc pump for the front thinking that it will give me more
power off the line.  Has anybody out their changed from the 20 cc to the 50
cc?
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
13 Wins 10 Losses
======================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 07:45:13 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Electronic Circuit Design Needed

Let me suggest that you look in a marine (boat type, not semper fi type)
store.  In marine applications it is common on larger boats to have oil
pressure and engine temp gauges light off a siren when the parameters preset
by the mfg'r are violated.  On my boat, if O.P. drops the gauge will also
signal a relay to shut off the ignition.  Might be a place for you to look.
Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 07:58:02 -0500
From: "Joe Serritella" <delect@chicagonet.net>
Subject: For Sale

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BDBF7D.9B337560
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have a rare set of cast aluminum rally sport wheels for a Cutlass for =
sale.
They fit 15" wheels and they can go on any Cutlass 1978-1986. They are =
all aluminum, no paint, and they have the center cap with the rocket =
emblem. They fit Hurst Olds and 442, too. I am asking only $225.00. I =
would like to see an oldsmobile enthusiast get these. I loved my Cutlass =
(1981) and I was sorry when the car was in an accident and had to be =
junked. Naturally I kept everything I could of the car especially the =
wheels! You can E-mail me at DELECT@CHICAGONET.NET  or call me at =
630-852-9936 (leave Message).
Thank you, Dianna G.=20

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BDBF7D.9B337560
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have a rare set of cast aluminum =
rally sport=20
wheels for a Cutlass for sale.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>They fit 15&quot; wheels and they =
can go on any=20
Cutlass 1978-1986. They are all aluminum, no paint, and they have the =
center cap=20
with the rocket emblem. They fit Hurst Olds and 442, too. I am asking =
only=20
$225.00. I would like to see an oldsmobile enthusiast get these. I loved =
my=20
Cutlass (1981) and I was sorry when the car was in an accident and had =
to be=20
junked. Naturally I kept everything I could of the car especially the =
wheels!=20
You can E-mail me at <A=20
href=3D"mailto:DELECT@CHICAGONET.NET">DELECT@CHICAGONET.NET</A>&nbsp; or =
call me=20
at 630-852-9936 (leave Message).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thank you, Dianna=20
G.&nbsp;</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BDBF7D.9B337560--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 09:28:01 EDT
From: <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Cool Can

In a message dated 8/3/98, 3:53:18 PM, oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca writes:
<<And I mean especially changing your main jets!>>
Jets??? what are they?? Do you people still use jets :)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 06:30:24 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: 20 CC pump or 50 cc pump

used it on a 1050 dominator but that needed it most carbs use it in the rear
if you are not having a problem with the car falling on its face of the line
dont worry about it use a bigger squirter nozzle...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Johnson, Sam <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
To: 'Oldsmobile' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, August 04, 1998 4:47 AM
Subject: 20 CC pump or 50 cc pump


>Which is better for the front of the holly carburetor. I am thinking about
>changing to the 50 cc pump for the front thinking that it will give me more
>power off the line.  Has anybody out their changed from the 20 cc to the 50
>cc?
>======================
>Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>>1971 Cutlass S 455
>>Westside! Chitown IL
>13 Wins 10 Losses
>======================
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 09:51:55 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!

Use a vacuum cleaner, putting the suction hose in the filler tube.  Seal
around it the best you can.  This will keep the gas from running out the
line when you cut it.
________________________

NOOOOOOO!  You'll be sucking highly volatile gasoline vapor into an electic
motor which is not explosion proof and likely has arcing brushes.  BOOM!

DON'T DO THIS!

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 10:09:00 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: G-body W-30 hood

Just found one by Auto Body Specialties in Middlefield, CT.  Phone (860)
346-4989, Fax (860)346-4987.

They list two fiberglass pin-on W-30 hoods for 81-87 G-body cars, part no.
OC-126 for $259 and part no. OC-127 for $439.  Unfortunately, there's no
description of the differences, but I'd bet that the cheaper one is the
outer panel only, while the more expensive one has a 'glass understructure
for additional stiffness.

I obtained the trunk and floor pans for my 66 from these folks, and I
recommend them.  I wanted the oversize floor pans that no one seems to
stock due to the inability to ship them UPS, but these folks came through.
They sell all the same repro sheet metal parts that Year One, Fusick, etc
sell, but for a slightly lower price (they were about 10% lower than Year
One on the floor pans).  Fusick actually turned me on to Auto Body
Specialties, as they're just down the road from Fusick.  Ask for Roger.
Roger, by the way, pointed out to me that there are only two stamping
companies who make all the repro panels that all the venors sell -
basically everyone gets their merchandise from the same source.

Note that if you're going to Carlisle, you can order the parts over the
phone and have them carry them to Carlisle for pickup.  This way you can
pay with a credit card and avoid the shipping charges (show sales are
usually cash only).  You'll also guarantee that they have the part you
want, as they can only bring a limited amount of merchandise to the show.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 09:47:54 -0500
From: "Larry L Hanson" <lhanson@fgi.net>
Subject: Date:	Tue, 4 Aug 1998 09:47:54 -0500

FS '81 Cutlass Supreme Brougham. Great project car. 1K OBO. E-mail direct
for info.

lhanson@fgi.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 10:18:26 -0400
From: "Brumm, Bruce" <bdbrumm@ldmtech.com>
Subject: RE: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!

Hmmmm, perhaps we could have an Olds. List "Darwin Award"!
Let's review:

       Gallons of lacquer thinner poured into a seat to eliminate odors.
       Sucking explosive vapors into an environment with arcing
electricity (vacuum cleaner motors DO do this).
       (and these are just the recent ones which come to mind...)

Perhaps we can add a category to the FAQ like "Really stupid things you
should NEVER do!" or "Ch*vy owners maintenance tips"
Some examples:
        Fashion jackstands from son's LEGO collection
        Heat frozen gas line with propane torch
        Pour "parts-cleaner" gasoline over engine as a handy de-greaser

Obligatory OLDS content:
   I finally ordered parts to get my '86 Salon fixed; I ordered a new
fender, header, and fascia panels.  I will also be replacing the
Headliner & t-top gaskets, etc.  My car is currently black w/grey
interior.  I'm thinking of changing it to Dark Burgundy Metallic - a
very
nice 442 color.  I've also decided to add a set of 15" Cragar SS wheels
and Goodyear Eagle #1 tires.  Should look sharp.

Cheers,

Bruce D. Brumm
Bdbrumm@ldmtech.com <mailto:Bdbrumm@ldmtech.com>
'86 Cutlass Salon (307-Y,t-tops, bucket seats, console, etc.)
'84 Cutlass Supreme (307-Y,parts car; junkyard bound)
'91 Thunderbird Sport (5.0 HO, 3.08 traction-lok, etc.)


		-----Original Message-----
		From:	Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
[mailto:Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM]
		Sent:	Tuesday, August 04, 1998 9:52 AM
		To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
		Subject:	Re: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big
Problem!!!

		Use a vacuum cleaner, putting the suction hose in the
filler tube.  Seal
		around it the best you can.  This will keep the gas from
running out the
		line when you cut it.
		________________________

		NOOOOOOO!  You'll be sucking highly volatile gasoline
vapor into an electic
		motor which is not explosion proof and likely has arcing
brushes.  BOOM!

		DON'T DO THIS!

		Joe Padavano
		padavano.joe@orbital.com

		66 442
		68 W-30
		69 H/O
		70 W-30
		

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 09:27:02 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Oil drain plug HELP?

Hi List,

the oil drain plug thread on my L*nc*ln is totally messed up (not by me,
by the former owner who must have brought it to a bad lube place.)
I definetly need to do the oil change soon but don't want to take out the
oil pan to weld on a nut. (That is the only idea I have so far...)
The bolt plug is already one of those thread self cutting things you can
get here in the part stores... so that won't work anymore.

Does anyone know a place (catalog) where you can order plugs with a
rubber gasket which swells up when you tighten the screw? I know, this is
not a good solution for an Olds but for an old 460 to pull an Olds it is
definetly enough...

Thanks for you help.

George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 16:28:56 +0200
From: "TRONDJARLE PEDERSEN" <trondped@c2i.net>
Subject: SV: I give up.

>I'm so sorry to hear about your incident. Hope it doesn't turn you off
>the hobby.


Nope talked to the insurance company today and they say its OK
Witch means that i can by the che*y and use some mony on my real car (please
dont flame me) hmm a new set of wheels, interior, well... And whit the che*y i
will newer get over 120km and its better in the winter to (4wd)

TJP

69 f85 sc  455/th400
80 Che*y pick up 6,2diesel no power

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 07:29:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joe Padavano <joe_padavano@rocketmail.com>
Subject: B-body discs

For whoever was looking for discs for a 60s B-body, I found this on the web.
Usual disclaimers...

Date of Posting: 7-18-98
Email Address: Novamark@webtv.net
Description: 1965-70 Olds 98/88 12 bolt posi complete from drum to drum with E
brake cables ready to bolt in.2.70 gears. $175. 1967-70 88/98 disc brake
conversion hardware includes spindles,caliper brackets,backing plates, 2
pc.rotors,speedo cable. $200. Prices do not include shipping. Call mark at
602-867-9224 for more info.
City: Phx.
State: Arizona

Please email him, not me.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30






_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 07:47:39 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Electronic Circuit Design Needed

> On my boat, if O.P. drops the gauge will also signal a relay
> to shut off the ignition.

Heck, if memory serves, on the Chevy Vega, if O.P. drops, the
gauge (or its sending unit, I think) will shut off the fuel
pump. Maybe I'm thinking of the Chevette instead. Anyway, tying
an analog circuit such as a gauge to a switched output designed
to prevent disaster is fairly common. A girlfriend's old Opel GT
had gauges with integral warning lights, and a '79 Dodge Diplomat
of mine had a warning light integrated into the fuel gauge. It
shouldn't be too hard to find a car with a sending unit or low
fluid level sensor that might do what you want it to do.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 10:48:28 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Electronic Circuit Design Needed

Heck, if memory serves, on the Chevy Vega, if O.P. drops, the
gauge (or its sending unit, I think) will shut off the fuel
pump. ...

- -- Andy
_____________

You are correct, Andy.  The Vega had an electric fuel pump and the oil
pressure sender had a separate set of contacts wired in series with the
pump which would open up if oil pressure dropped.  I suspect that in
today's world of EFI, many new cars have similar configurations.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 07:57:20 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!

>> Use a vacuum cleaner, putting the suction hose in the filler tube.
>
> NO!!!  Be ~very~ forewarned if you try this. [...] Do you really
> want all your gasoline vapors floating around that electrical
> motor???  Be cautious!

Cautious my *ss, Charley; you're too kind. If you connect up a
vacuum cleaner like that and start it up, you _will_ have a fire
and you _will_ have an explosion.

Regular Dave Barry readers on this list are probably all flipping
madly through their copies of his books, trying to find the one
with the column about the Chicagoland Corvair Owners' Club's
Flaming Vacuum Cleaner Competition. My copy is at home...  :-(

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 11:03:17 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re:

> > Oh and that W-30 intake was sold to a friend of mine on this list for a
> > mere $625
> > I got it at a deal, no need in gouging the heck out of his wallet
> > Oh that was $625 Canadian about $450 for you Yanks
> >
>
>
> What a Deal!!! you made $500.00 on the intake. What a pal!
>
> Mark Hahn
> 75D88C
>

Mark do I hear a little sarcasm in there


Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 10:51:26 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Oil drain plug HELP?

I've seen double and triple oversized thread cutting oil pan bolts at
the store.  Might try that.

- -greg
- -------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 11:20:54 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@leadbelt.com
Subject: Re: bugs in the HEI?????

I said:

> I had a very similar problem with a 1984 model of another GM make. In my
>case, the problem was associated with some knock sensor circuit and was
only >resolved by wiring around this. A local garage had some experience
with these >problems & had no trouble fixing it.

and some more stuff.

I forgot to say that I had already tried to remedy the problem by replacing
the module.

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 09:27:01 -0700
From: babyboo@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: my baby

Congradulations on your new purchase . You did indead find a rare deal. I
find my self envious, I  never seem to find deals like this.

Jeffrey lane wrote:

> I just noticed something.  and I have a question or two...
>
> First, I noticed what most people are selling First Generation Toronados
> for.  I am beginning to think that I had one of those rare moments of
> luck.  While shopping for a classic car to restore, and drive, I
> happened across an ad for a 67 Toronado.  My interest piqued.  I had to
> check it out.  I fell inlove the first time I sat behind the wheel.  So
> I came back the next afternoon with a check, and bought it.
>
> Now the details.  What I got was a 1967 Toronado.  I got the original
> sticker, and buill of sale, and the papers to just about every bit of
> work that was ever done to it.  The body is in excellent shape, though
> there is a small amount of rust on the lower left rear quarter, and the
> it needs a paint job.  The chrome is excellent, very few scratches, no
> dents anywhere.
>
> The motor runs smoothly, as though it were brand new.  it purrs, and
> then it roars when I hit the accelerator.  It doesn't leak, and one
> second best part of the whole deal, it only has 60 thousand miles on
> it!!!  I couldn't believe it.  and the best part of all, it only cost me
> 1200.  Am I missing something?  Or did I truely walk right into lady
> luck the day I saw the ad?  Either way, I am in love with my Olds.
>
> Now my questions.  First, I intend to rebuild this car until it looks
> showroom perfect.  (By the way, the interiri is nearly perfect).  Does
> anyone know where I can find parts?  I have tried to find issues of
> Hemmings, but they are rare here.
>
> Also, Does anyone know where I can find the am-fm radio or stereo that
> were options in 67-69??  I am thinking that they should be the same
> radio...  at least in 66-68.  But I need a working am-fm radio, so I can
> replace the am in mine with an fm version?
>
> Well, thanks for reading my babble...
> a new Olds lover,
> Jeffrey Lane
>
> 1967 Olds Toronado
> --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 09:38:41 PDT
From: "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: my baby

i have a new Hemmings,so if you make me a list of stuff you need ,i can
give you #ers

Thanks
      Ryan.
Does
>> anyone know where I can find parts?  I have tried to find issues of
>> Hemmings, but they are rare here.
>>
>> Also, Does anyone know where I can find the am-fm radio or stereo
that
>> were options in 67-69??  I am thinking that they should be the same
>> radio...  at least in 66-68.  But I need a working am-fm radio, so


  My  -------   -------
            /  |
           /   |
          /     ------
         /            |
        /             |
       /        ------    DELTA 88
Ryan D Beck
           Riviera72sss@hotmail.com


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 11:45:28 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Sorry, Copy of what I was worked up about, Will do better

>> Thanks for reply, what I need is a guard for a 75 350 Eng. a/c compressor,
>> keeps the belt and clutch assy. from rubbing on the suction hose. Mine
>> cracked and is hanging down. Not a common item, looked about everywhere.
>>Do not know if other models use the same thing. It is a piece of stamped
sheet
>> metal, attaches with two bolts to the compressor housing. It's almost
>> quarter moon shaped. I drive the car everyday and hate to lose the hose and
>> the freon. Car is nice with 59000 orig miles on it. Close to "A" show
>> condition

OK, Lou, now I remember your post. I know what you're speaking about,
because the same thing broke off on two of my cars... :(

Did you try an Oldsmobile (or any GM) dealer? They might still list it,
though a regular parts store would look at you like you had two heads if
you asked them for one.

I believe this was a common part, as I've broken it off on both a '69 Toro
and a '78 Electra. You could check the junkyards for good condition
rearended cars. In reality, though, you'd just as likely find it in a pile
of scrap A-6 compressors, as these bolted to the front adapter plate.

As for the delay in the response, I didn't have one on hand to offer (as I
said, I need a couple myself), so I figured someone else with one to offer
would be the one to respond. This is often what happens when you post
something, so you may need to post again to remind the list your question
remains unanswered (also, some replies are made privately, so if you don't
say otherwise, we assume you've gotten an answer to your question off-list;
this is especially true when you are requesting an item that another person
may be selling you, something that doesn't have to be transacted on the
main list).
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	              MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 12:17:56 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Selling intake to friend for profit

>Robert Schinkel wrote:
 [snip]
>> He came up to me and said "I have an aluminum intake in the trunk of my
>> car, if you want it just give me $100".  And Yep it was a 70 W-30 intake,
>> latter he called me and said he had a new set of Exhaust manifold for the
 [snip]
>> Oh and that W-30 intake was sold to a friend of mine on this list for a
>> mere $625
>> I got it at a deal, no need in gouging the heck out of his wallet
>> Oh that was $625 Canadian about $450 for you Yanks
>
>What a Deal!!! you made $500.00 on the intake. What a pal!

Yes, it is a deal, as he could have sold the intake for $400(US) more, or
his friend could have had to pay $400 more for the intake if he bought it
from someone else. So in effect, Bob gave his friend the $400 he otherwise
could have made selling the intake on the open market.

Are you suggesting that a real friend would have sold it "at cost", and
thus given his friend $750 worth of intake? If you're that generous with
your friends, then I better start inviting you to my family parties... ;)
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	              MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 12:08:51 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Web Links & Pics

>> ...http://www.musclecars.net/
>
>> Cool web site, but unfortunately their "71" 442 is really a 72 - or else it
>> has the wrong grilles.
>
>Wrong grilles ~and~ headlight bezels.
>I e-mailed the webmaster months ago about that and the fact that a '68
>H/O was called a 442.  Guess they don't care.

Yeah, the first '67 Cutlass they list is a '63 or so... the errors are not
confined to Olds, though; saw some Pontiacs misidentified (NO! Not
*another* Pontiac thread! ;) as well, so I guess they're batting around
.750; good for b-ball, not good for reference sources...

Reminds me of the introduction to a big coffee-table book on Musclecars I
bought for a buck at a library sale; overall pretty good, but the first
page of their first chapter devoted to 1962 as the start of the musclecar
era, they have a full-page color picture of "the car that started it all",
in bright read, the 1962 409 Impala. Unfortunately, the picture is of a
1963 Impala... <doh!>

Of course, in any other forum people would put us on medication if we let
it be known that we got worked up over the fact that a 442 was identified
as a '71, even though it CLEARLY has the blacked-out headlight bezels from
a '72... :)

But, if someone is going to create a site that is supposed to be a kind of
reference or archive for musclecars (as this site proposes itself to be),
then accuracy in models and years should be a concern.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	              MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 12:29:56 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: my baby

>I just noticed something.  and I have a question or two...
>
>First, I noticed what most people are selling First Generation Toronados
>for.  I am beginning to think that I had one of those rare moments of
>luck.  While shopping for a classic car to restore, and drive, I
>happened across an ad for a 67 Toronado.  My interest piqued.  I had to
>check it out.  I fell inlove the first time I sat behind the wheel.  So
>I came back the next afternoon with a check, and bought it.

They are addicting, aren't they? I had my '69 out last night, just to fill
her up with gasoline; I kept hoping to hit red lights, as I didn't want the
drive to end...

>Now the details.  What I got was a 1967 Toronado.  I got the original
>sticker, and buill of sale, and the papers to just about every bit of
>work that was ever done to it.  The body is in excellent shape, though

That kind of documentation is very important, as abused versions with
mickey-mouse fixes can cost more to undo and do right than a worn version
in the first place.

>there is a small amount of rust on the lower left rear quarter, and the
>it needs a paint job.  The chrome is excellent, very few scratches, no
>dents anywhere.
>The motor runs smoothly, as though it were brand new.  it purrs, and
>then it roars when I hit the accelerator.  It doesn't leak, and one
>second best part of the whole deal, it only has 60 thousand miles on
>it!!!  I couldn't believe it.  and the best part of all, it only cost me
>1200.  Am I missing something?  Or did I truely walk right into lady
>luck the day I saw the ad?  Either way, I am in love with my Olds.

You definitely hit it right with lady luck! It would be a great deal at
double that price, and normally I'd expect it would be offered at $3500-$4000.

The Toronados are very undervalued, though, except for the very high-end
low-mile show cars (say under 25,000 miles).

>Now my questions.  First, I intend to rebuild this car until it looks
>showroom perfect.  (By the way, the interiri is nearly perfect).  Does
>anyone know where I can find parts?  I have tried to find issues of
>Hemmings, but they are rare here.

Fusicks and Olds Parts USA are two big suppliers; check out the sources on
http://www.442.com , and also see http://www.toronado.org  for more
details. You may also consider joining the Toronado mailing list as well as
the Olds list, as there is more Toronado-specific info to be found there.

>Also, Does anyone know where I can find the am-fm radio or stereo that
>were options in 67-69??  I am thinking that they should be the same
>radio...  at least in 66-68.  But I need a working am-fm radio, so I can
>replace the am in mine with an fm version?

They came with either AM/FM Wonderbar (mono) or AM/FM Stereo; for these,
you'll have to buy them used, though there are places that will convert
your existing AM radio into AM/FM with new components, but retaining the
stock look. Just make sure you've taken your heart medicine before you ask
the price ($800-$1500!). The Toronado web site has classifieds you can
check, or post a "wanted" ad in.

Congratulations on the purchase, and welcome to our world! :)
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	              MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 11:54:20 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: 75 Omega re: Paul's comment

> The first letters of the original names for the four X-body cars (Nova,
> Omega, Ventura, Apollo) of course spell out N-O-V-A.

Or AVON! Apollo, Ventura, Omega, Nova.

Joe Padavano, I had messages bounce on delivery to your orbital account. I'll
try the rocketmail account.
- --
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 12:48:39 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Big Block AC brackets...

>I am currently working on putting a 455 in my 84 Chevy 4X4.  I mocked up
>the engine yesterday to check all the brackets and bolts, etc, and realized
>that the AC brackets I had were from a small block.  The rear bracket bolts
>on the head with 3 bolts and the front bracket bolts to two of the water
>pump bolts.  The small block brackets bolt on fine but the mounting holes
>for the compressor do not line up due to the difference in blocks.
>
>Does anybody have the correct brackets for the compressor on a big block???
> (The compressor is the later style design.)  I had these at one time but
>they dissapperaed.  Any help would be appreciated...

Hmm, the newer brackets have a different configuration than the old ones,
huh? The old bracket didn't bolt to the water pump at all, but rather to
the bosses in the end of the head, so it didn't make a difference if it was
going on a big-block or a small-block.

Sorry, I've only got a pile of the old cast-iron style ones... :(
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	              MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 11:53:27 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: How much for a converted radio??!?!?!

><snip>
>They came with either AM/FM Wonderbar (mono) or AM/FM Stereo; for these,
>you'll have to buy them used, though there are places that will convert
>your existing AM radio into AM/FM with new components, but retaining the
>stock look. Just make sure you've taken your heart medicine before you ask
>the price ($800-$1500!). The Toronado web site has classifieds you can

WOW!!!!! or as the late Harry Carey would say HOLY COW!!!!
thats a lot of lettuce to get a radio converted.  Guess I better find my
working am/fm radio for the W-31 before I get stuck with only an am only
unit.

As a side note, I take the W-31 to the transmission shop Sun for it's
Monday appt.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 12:56:28 -0400
From: Stephen Palomba <spalomba@IDT.NET>
Subject: Re: G-body heater hose questions

Jason P. Labay wrote:
>
> Well I have ran the car for a few days with the shortened heater hose mod and
it seems to be running 10 degrees hotter > than normal.  Now that shortened 
hose
may have nothing to do with it, but that is the only thing that I have touched
on > the cooling system.  Oh and on the GN, first good 86-87 I find the 80 442
is history :-) > > Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net)   Akron, OH > 98 Silverado C2500
88 Trans Am GTA > 75 Hurst/Olds W-25    80 Olds 442 W-30 > 72 Cutlass Supreme
Drag Car > > >I've shortenned mine with no problem.  I've also wonderred why
they did this. > >I'm sure there was some engineering reason, like vibration, 
or
heater > >efficiency, or chafing on other parts, or something, but all that
stuff makes > >little difference in the Rockit anyway. > > > >So what's the
latest on the GN??? > > > > > >-- > >Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney
Montana |\      |-------| > >mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me
|/\|=|  |   |   | > >http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   
|
| > >   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   | > >    \|/
List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  | > >     V
===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ | > >
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___| > > Hi,

	I read the original message in which you asked if you could shorten the
heater hose.
	There had to be a GOOD reason why the hose was as long as it was from
the factory.
	After reading that your car runs 10 degrees hotter than before I am
pretty sure that the reason for the unusually long hose was to add
coolant capacity to keep the operating temperature down.

Stephen

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 13:07:31 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re:

<HTML>


<P>&nbsp;
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>
<PRE>Mark do I hear a little sarcasm in there</PRE>
</BLOCKQUOTE>
&nbsp; Finally!!! Someone with a sense of humor and is not ultra sensitive.

<P>Glad you know how to read between the lines.

<P>Thanks Bob.

<P>Mark Hahn
<BR>75D88C</HTML>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 11:11:26 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Big Block AC brackets...

> Hmm, the newer brackets have a different configuration than the old ones,
> huh? The old bracket didn't bolt to the water pump at all, but rather to
> the bosses in the end of the head,

Yes, newer are the stamped steel type flimsy stuff.  They use the water pump
stud for support.  I've been running mine for a couple years w/o the water pump
part in place.  I'd like to see a repro come out, though.  In two versions....
Affordable and billet!  I'm afraid we'd see neither, though :(

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 10:17:25 -0700
From: babyboo@pacbell.net
Subject: Re:

- --------------D67E6659421F175D2049B851
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hip,Hip,Horrah, It is nice to see others who saw this was only ment as a
gest,snicker,teehee,a joke. Nothing worse than someone taking something
said as a joke outa context and someone getting mad or hurt feelings.
Sorry to waste Bandwidth, just my .02 cents.

Mark Hahn wrote:

>
>
>
>
>> Mark do I hear a little sarcasm in there
>>
>   Finally!!! Someone with a sense of humor and is not ultra sensitive.
>
> Glad you know how to read between the lines.
>
> Thanks Bob.
>
> Mark Hahn
> 75D88C



- --------------D67E6659421F175D2049B851
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML>
Hip,Hip,Horrah, It is nice to see others who saw this was only ment as
a gest,snicker,teehee,a joke. Nothing worse than someone taking something
said as a joke outa context and someone getting mad or hurt feelings. Sorry
to waste Bandwidth, just my .02 cents.

<P>Mark Hahn wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>&nbsp;

<P>&nbsp;
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>
<PRE>Mark do I hear a little sarcasm in there</PRE>
</BLOCKQUOTE>
&nbsp; Finally!!! Someone with a sense of humor and is not ultra sensitive.

<P>Glad you know how to read between the lines.

<P>Thanks Bob.

<P>Mark Hahn
<BR>75D88C</BLOCKQUOTE>
&nbsp;</HTML>

- --------------D67E6659421F175D2049B851--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 13:42:48 EDT
From: <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: G-body heater hose questions

In a message dated 8/4/98 11:57:43 AM EST, spalomba@IDT.NET writes:

<<
 Jason P. Labay wrote:
 > Well I have ran the car for a few days with the shortened heater hose mod
and it seems to be running 10 degrees hotter
 > than normal.  Now that shortened hose may have nothing to do with it, but
that is the only thing that I have touched on
 > the cooling system.  Oh and on the GN, first good 86-87 I find the 80 442
is history :-)
 >
 > Jason Labay (jlabay@ee.net) >

Charley B. wrote.....
 > >I've shortenned mine with no problem.  I've also wonderred why they did
this.
 > >I'm sure there was some engineering reason, like vibration, or heater
 > >efficiency, or chafing on other parts, or something, but all that stuff
makes
 > >little difference in the Rockit anyway.
 > >
 Hi,

 	I read the original message in which you asked if you could shorten 
the
 heater hose.
 	There had to be a GOOD reason why the hose was as long as it was from
 the factory.
 	After reading that your car runs 10 degrees hotter than before I am
 pretty sure that the reason for the unusually long hose was to add
 coolant capacity to keep the operating temperature down.

 Stephen >>

I can't believe that shortening the hose by this amount of length would cause
any major problems...  We're not talking miles of hose here, just a foot, or
two, right?  I'm curious about something...  I think I know what hose you are
talking about, but just to make clear...   is it the one that goes to the
front of the motor (into the water pump), or is it the one that goes to the
back of the motor (into the intake, which is the one I >thought< I remember
hearing of...

On mine there isn't alot of extra hose on either of them.  The one going to
the back of the intake has enough length to be run within 1/2 a foot of the
firewall during it's run (so not too much extra hose there...).  And the other
one (that goes to the front of the motor) either gets run on top of the valve
cover (it (right now) lays right over the top of the cover), or it sits in the
notch on the front of the cover, just above the bolt flange.  There isn't alot
of extra hose in either of mine, and it runs fine, in fact my autometer guage
right now is showing 180 during normal operation, and a little bit of
"creeping" during extended idling, etc....  And all of this is without the fan
shroud, the little rubber "flaps" above the "A" arm mounting points on the
frame, and no underside airdam..... (all the things I've heard people say you
>NEED<.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 11:40:54 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Brakes really squishy (Price on Cylinder rebuild)

That's pretty much what it does, squishy brakes that still work
(otherwise wouldn't be driving), but if you hold down on the pedal, they
keep pushing down.. I guess I'll inquire on cost of getting the cylinder
re-built, and if it costs lots, grab a free used one.

How much should I expect to pay canadian to get one rebuilt (I take it
off)??

Robert Barry wrote:
>
> If the internal seals in your master cylinder are shot, then pressing on the
> brake pedal will have reduced effectiveness, giving you that "spongy"
> feeling. Another clue would be if the pedal slowly sank further to the floor
> while you had your car stopped at a light

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 13:52:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tom Lardner <lardner@UMDNJ.EDU>
Subject: pinging 307

Damn this 85 Salon 307.  It pings like crazy, and I know it's something to
do with the choke tube/EGR system.  How can I fix and PREVENT this?
Thanks
Tom

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 10:56:20 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!

Karl,
Go to the good parts store, buy about 15 feet of mild steel hardline (it
comes in a roll) of the correct
diameter. Remove the old line. It goes down the passenger side of the
frame inside the C channel
then makes a turn where the frame pinches in to make room for the front
wheel. This may involve
removing the hood and right fender or you _might_ be able to slide the
line out. The key is to bend
the new line in the same shape as the old one. You will need a tubing
bender Get thee to Sears.
And a tubing cutter. Sears'll help with this too. New hose clamps on all
connections and new rubber
hose from the tank to the hardline and from hardline to the motor. If
you can sort a way to put a
bulge in it, like the factory did, do it. I don't know how this is done
and am curious.

Hearty recommendation to do this job right, you are messing with fuel
which is really good at
burning and exploding. I'm particularly careful having endured 2 (or was
it 3) fires along the way.
Not fun. Or cheap.

Vacuum source on the intake can be virtually any manifold vacuum port.
Pick one, by definition
they should all be the same. 'less others here know more than me (more
than likely...)


> My Q 2 U 'all is: what would you do and why?
>
> Assume it is a rush job.
> And yes, I can prolly drain the tank via a not-so-different
> arrangement (hose
> patch between pre-existing steel tubing) on the front of the car.
>
> Just will not be able to manage more than 8 gallons or so.....
>
> And uh, thanks.
> I cannot stress how important this is to me right now.
>
> Incidentally, on 2GV carbs, where on the engine is the vacc source?
> Assume you cannot use a sub-intake manifold part.
>
> Thanks much.
> KA
> & SOM_______
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 10:59:08 -0700
From: "David Seiver - Account Executive" <DavidS@AnaServe.com>
Subject: SPRINGS 67 f85 425bb

I got $100 for a set (4) of stiff springs for my 67 f85 w/a 425bb. I need
front and rear and will wire the money but the springs must be GOOD!
Please help!

David Seiver
Account Representative
AnaServe, Inc. - The Future of Web Hosting
Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283
Fax: 714.250.7265
e-mail: davids@anaserve.com
Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 14:17:31 -0400
From: "Angel Castrodad" <angleki@prtc.net>
Subject: RE: pinging 307

Hi Tom,

	While it might be the EGR valve, try something first. Try using Premium
unleaded (read: 92 octane or better) and see if the motor still pings. Also
check your timming as (if I recall correctly) if it is too far advanced it
can cause a pinging situation. My '86 442 with the HO 307 pings just a tad
when at normal temperature with regular unleaded but runs just fine with
premium. In the long run it could cost you more but hey, I'd do anything for
my baby.

Did I metion that i was running with EGR disconnected??????

Angel Castrodad
angleki@prtc.net
'86 442-----> 307 H.O. (5A), TH-350 (not my fault,previous owner), 3.73
rear......Ooooh, T-tops !!!!

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Tom Lardner
Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 1998 1:53 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: pinging 307


Damn this 85 Salon 307.  It pings like crazy, and I know it's something to
do with the choke tube/EGR system.  How can I fix and PREVENT this?
Thanks
Tom

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 11:18:27 -0700
From: "David Seiver - Account Executive" <DavidS@AnaServe.com>
Subject: LIST...

Can ANYONE see my postings? Someone please let me know!
thank you,

David Seiver
Account Representative
AnaServe, Inc. - The Future of Web Hosting
Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283
Fax: 714.250.7265
e-mail: davids@anaserve.com
Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 14:18:58 -0400
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: Anyone recognize this hood?????

> It looks like Pontiac stuff.  Don't know.  Need to...  Thanks :)

Charley,

I know somebody said it was a Formula Friedturd hood, but I was wondering
if it might not *really* belong to a Grand Am of the 76 - 80 vintage, at
which time was based on the Le Mans X-Body incarnation...

A buddy of mine positively *drooled* over them at the time.
To each their own.




Tim Churchill        OCA #30327           Framingham, MA
- ------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 14:20:37 EDT
From: <WOODY3781@aol.com>
Subject: Re: LIST...

YES

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 14:20:32 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: LIST...

Can ANYONE see my postings? Someone please let me know!
thank you,

David Seiver
_______________

Sure, but unfortunately I didn't have anything useful to say.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 15:25:02 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: LIST...

On Tue, 4 Aug 1998, David Seiver - Account Executive wrote:

> Can ANYONE see my postings? Someone please let me know!

Yep, I see 'em fine. Can't help you with your parts search, but I see 'em.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 11:27:53 -0700
From: "David Seiver - Account Executive" <DavidS@AnaServe.com>
Subject: OK thanks!

David Seiver
Account Representative
AnaServe, Inc. - The Future of Web Hosting
Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283
Fax: 714.250.7265
e-mail: davids@anaserve.com
Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 14:22:53 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Power Valve? Off-Idle sys? was Re: 20 CC vs. 50 cc pump

In a message dated 98-08-04 07:47:48 EDT, you write:

<< I am thinking about changing to the 50 cc pump for the front thinking that
it will give me more power off the line.  Has anybody out their changed from
the 20 cc to the 50 cc? >>

OK.

Karl gotta big Q here.

My (slow) carb education has reached the idle and off-idle part.

Sam's still having a problem with WOT bog from a dead stop (right?)

IF he had a Roch, I would say that his off-idle system needed adjusting.
But Karl not know about off-idle in Holley.

But the pump shot goes every time that you depress the pedal, and might give
too much gas at part throttle.

So...

Would Sam be better off in using a power valve with a higher vaccuum rating?
That is to say... throttle plates start to open, power valve "sees" highest
vacc signal.

Uh, right?

Or perhaps someone would instruct in the off-idle system of the Holley....
that's still the double-pumper Sam?

Hmmm.

Have you "posted" the Q to www.holley.com?

Wait a sec, I gots some Holley tech stuff printed out...uh....somewhere....

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 14:34:07 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: God Loves Oldsmobilers....was DOH!

For those of you who do not follow the Great SOM Saga on a regular basis, I
will ask the question first.

Upon reaching the engine compartment, can the fuel hose go higher than the
fuel pump inlet?

Like 2" or so?

But where to start.

Firstly, I would like to obtain a windshield wiper motor soon, because it
rained hard this morning. Mine is still inoperative and out of the car. (I
prolly ought to get one from brothers auto...must be the same unit in some 65
F-85's.....)

It paused raining only for me to get into my car at work,...and.....

...miraculously.....

The entire time I worked on the car!

The cutter did its job well (Yah! the li'l one) the line fairly snapped in
two. I would have appreciated someone mentioning that I might anticipate that
instant with a catch can as you then need to unscrew the tension bolt on the
cutter!

(Un)fortunately, no gasoline came out???????

My gas guage showed the needle against, but not intersecting the E hash mark.
I have (previously) driven for miles with the needle at or below E.
Strange.
There *was* more play in the line from the tank than I expected, but it was
prolly because of the length of travel from thence, it did not seem to be
clipped anywhere from the new break to the tank.
(please, nobody jinx me now!)

So. From the space in front of the rear wheel axle hinge (4 wheel springs), it
runs under the frame rail, then inside it for a time. Held fast by those
plastic zip-ties, whatever they are called.

Then a quandry.

How to enter the engine compartment.

Under the suspention arms is out of the question.

Pre-purchase "patch hose" goes about 2 feet but reattaches to stock fuel line
inside front wheel housing.

Could do that but loath to cut hose at this point.

Rather I follows the exh pipe (6" away!) into engine bay.
Then over upper control arm (1" clearance, dunno if I should trust hose near
that).

To front of car, slight loop on pass. side, where rad catch can *would* be,
the to fuel filter.

So.

Dint try it.
Started to rain again.

Plus Karl was wet.

From thinking about availabl female Oldsmobile entusiasts.

Well, and lying in puddles.

Dint wanna soak my seats if this actually worked.

So.
It is raining again.
Karl went to bathe, breakfast and bed.

I gots a carb fulla gas (mebbe) and about 12' of fuel hose (plus 2' of steel
line) with no fuel in 'em.

Will prolly start. If gas not evaporated from carb.

Final Q...

If lines sealed, will carb gas keep me running long enough for pump to siphon
gas from tank?

If I can have line go above fuel pump.....

<sigh>

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 14:30:40 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!

In a message dated 98-08-04 13:57:00 EDT, you write:

<< . If you can sort a way to put a bulge in it, like the factory did, do it.
>>

Uh.

Hmmmm.

Karl not seen bulge.

Er, ... in fuel line, I mean.

What CF mean?


<< SOM_______  >>

Drat!
Tried to send with SOM underlined.
Trailing line less effective!

<sigh>

KA
&SOM_________

('least I am not making jackstands!)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 13:46:33 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: Oil drain plug HELP?

Oversize drain plugs will cut new threads right into the old ones.  You can
get them at any good parts store, NAPA, etc.  Chris Smetana used one in his
b*ick recently with good results.  I used one in a 390 f*rd many rears ago
also.  Don't drop the pan, just screw it in as usual and it cuts as it goes.
No muss, no fuss.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 12:03:15 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!

Right about an inch or so from the end of the hardline, there is usually
a sort of balloon bulge against which the
clamp is supposed to seal. May not be necessary, but is desirable for
safety.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: KarlAune@aol.com [mailto:KarlAune@aol.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 1998 11:31 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Problem....solutio...DOH!....Big Problem!!!
>
>
> In a message dated 98-08-04 13:57:00 EDT, you write:
>
> << . If you can sort a way to put a bulge in it, like the
> factory did, do it.
> >>
>
> Uh.
>
> Hmmmm.
>
> Karl not seen bulge.
>
> Er, ... in fuel line, I mean.
>
> What CF mean?
>
>
> << SOM_______  >>
>
> Drat!
> Tried to send with SOM underlined.
> Trailing line less effective!
>
> <sigh>
>
> KA
> &SOM_________
>
> ('least I am not making jackstands!)
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 14:47:22 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: SPRINGS 67 f85 425bb

In a message dated 98-08-04 14:00:26 EDT, you write:

<< I got $100 for a set (4) of stiff springs for my 67 f85 w/a 425bb. I need
 front and rear and will wire the money but the springs must be GOOD!
 Please help! >>

You have $100 *to spend* ??

That is odd. A set of 4 correct Heavy Duty (full-size car w/BB) springs would
cost me $300!

Try C. B. Witt.
Privately.

He may have "slightly" used...on a (different) 1965 Dynamic 88.
Or other parts car.

But that would be the best deal, unless you anna try and match with modern
springs.

HAH!
I kill me!

And no I am not making fun of you.

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 15:09:06 -0500 (EST)
From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu>
Subject: re: new oldsmobilia purchase

> Really cool and coincedental, just got the new Hot Rod, quite a bit of
> Olds stuff in this one, ~including~ too cool!

Yeah... first time I've bought a Hot Rod... since my subscribtion ran out
about 2 years ago...

Only burnout picture for the story on the Power Tour was a 442... Yeah!!!

Had 455 buildup in it too... much info on the new aftermarket alum.
heads... (was that edelb.?)

BTW, charley... if you want to see what my Rover looks like... take a look
at the first model in the collectibles brochure... the gold one... that's
basically what it looks like... but it's white and the front-end treatment
is slightly different.

There was a Caddy 500 engine buildup too... got a 500 at the house...
unfotunately... can't afford THEIR buildup.



    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
 |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
 |  |  |     work:  GQPR12E@Prodigy.com
 |  |  |
 | / \ |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
 |/   \|
  \   /      1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
   \ /          (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
    |        1980 Rover 3500 SD1
		(215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
	     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
		(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 15:12:07 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: God Loves Oldsmobilers....was DOH!

...The cutter did its job well...I would have appreciated someone
mentioning that I might anticipate thatinstant with a catch can as you then
need to unscrew the tension bolt on the
cutter!
____________

From Padavano post to list, 8/3/98, 2:23 EDT:

"...Yes, gas will siphon out of the tank.  Just have a catch can ready..."

You're welcome.

============

...How to enter the engine compartment...
____________

Don't know about big cars, but the A-body actually passes the hard lines
through the frame for a short distance near the aft lower control arm bolt.
This allows the lines to run protected _inside_ the frame and then pass out
of an opening in the crossmember under the engine, right in line with the
fuel pump.  If your car has this feature, suggest running hose to match.
None of your other options sounded particularly appealing.  Just be sure
that hose is securely attached out of the arc of travel of any moving
parts!

============

I gots a carb fulla gas (mebbe) and about 12' of fuel hose (plus 2' of
steel
line) with no fuel in 'em.

Will prolly start. If gas not evaporated from carb.

Final Q...

If lines sealed, will carb gas keep me running long enough for pump to
siphon
gas from tank?
_____________

Prolly, but have a small gas can available for priming, else you may run
the battery down cranking the engine to prime the pump.

=============

If I can have line go above fuel pump.....
_____________

Karl likes a challenge, apparently...

=============

Karl not seen bulge.
_____________

Sorry to hear it.  Must have been laying in a _cold_ puddle.

I believe Chris was refering to the formed bead at the end of the pipe to
help retain the hose.  While not as sanitary, a flare works about as well.

=============

What CF mean?
_____________

Uh, Chris Fair?


Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 15:18:56 -0500 (EST)
From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu>
Subject: re: my baby

Hemmings has a web page at www.hmn.com

I'm pretty sure you can get a subscription online...



    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
 |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
 |  |  |     work:  GQPR12E@Prodigy.com
 |  |  |
 | / \ |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
 |/   \|
  \   /      1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
   \ /          (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
    |        1980 Rover 3500 SD1
		(215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
	     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
		(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1405
*********************************
