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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1449


oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, August 26 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1449



Re: Compression from Flat-Tops was  Pistons questi
Re: UPDATE aluminum heads!
RE: Indexing plugs-Don't re-gap spark plugs??
Power Bands (was:Compression from Flat-Tops...)
Re: UPDATE aluminum heads!
Re: Power Bands (was:Compression from Flat-Tops...)
Indexing sparkplugs
RE: A couple questions for the folks in Olds land
RE: parts for 83
RE: starter problems, please h*lp
Re: starter problems, please h*lp
Q-Jet adjustment Q.
RE: starter problems, please h*lp
Re: starter problems, please h*lp
RE: starter problems, please h*lp
Jetting Carb
urls needed
Re: starter problems, please h*lp
Re: timing question
Re: A couple questions for the folks in Olds land
1967
Re: parts for 83
RE: 1967
Re: starter problems, please h*lp
Winston Cup Engines (Was Re: Compression from Flat-Tops, etc.)
Re: starter problems, please h*lp
Re: Hurricane Message
JWO&OCA - More Q than A (Unofficial reply)
RE: parts for 83
RE: Proportioning Valves Revisited...
RE: A couple questions for the folks in Olds land
Re: Hurricane Message
Winston Cuppers was: Compression from Flat-Tops was  Pistons questi
Exhaust ?'s
Starter, multitester was: starter problems, please h*lp
Re: Indexing sparkplugs
color of valve cover???????
RE: Indexing sparkplugs
Re: color of valve cover???????
Crank Mods
Re: timing question
re:index plugs
A word on Just Dashes
Re: parts for 83
Re: Starter "issue"
Re: Jetting Carb
Re: parts for 83
Re: RE: Proportioning Valves Revisited...
Re: Crank Mods

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 09:47:06 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Compression from Flat-Tops was  Pistons questi

Jason,

I agree it would be insane to try to run a WC engine in my 75 Delta but
I also wonder if I could "borrow" some of their technology in order to
give me a stronger engine. 650 HP from a relatively "small" engine is no
small feat. But if I could boost the HP in my 350 by another 50-100
horses it might be worth a look-see.
I never have taken a look at the differences between a "strip" engine
and a "track" engine. Hell for all I know there may be no difference.
But surely there must be a combination of the two that would benefit a
regular street car.
I know the Delta will never be a strip machine but it would be fun to
have one that would be capable of speeds in excess of 150 mph.

Mark Hahn
75D88RC

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 09:51:31 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: UPDATE aluminum heads!

To a point it does. My engine is more efficient. I don't have to press the
gass to
give me the output to do 85. Now my engine can run 85 mph at a lower rpm
because
it puts out more power and does so more efficiently. Make sense? Atleast
that's my
explanation for the awesome changes I have encountered.

ben
_________

While your engine is certainly more efficient, the tire size and driveline
gear ratios determine engine RPM at a certain speed, period.  The only
exception to this is the use of an automatic, where torque converter
slippage enters into the equation - and, yes, the car in question has a
TH400.

At 85 mph, the car will travel exactly 124.67 feet every second, or 7480
feet every minute, no matter whether you have a Q4, 455, or a Chevy (well,
that may be pushing it).  Looking at the physics of the situation, the
circumference of the tire is fixed (assuming the tires haven't been changed
or had their air pressure changed dramatically), so the car will travel a
fixed number of feet per tire revolution.  Assume, for the sake of
argument, that the car has 26" diameter tires.  The car will travel 81.68
inches, or 6.8 feet every tire rev.  Dividing 7480 feet per minute by 6.8
feet per rev gives 1099 tire revs per minute.

Next, unless the rear end has been changed or is one of the extremely rare
two-speed nine-inch Ford units used in Cougars in the late 60s, the final
drive ratio is fixed.  This means that the car covers a certain fixed
distance  for every driveshaft revolution.  Assume a 3.42:1 final drive.
3.42 * 1099 = 3758 driveshaft RPM at 85 MPH with this tire size.

Now, unless you have an overdrive, top gear in the trans is 1:1, so the
input shaft must be turning at the same speed as the driveshaft (assuming
no slippage in the TH400's clutch pack).  Now, the only thing left in the
chain between the engine's crankshaft and the rear tires is the torque
converter.  This is also the only element in the driveline that isn't a
fixed gear ratio (in other words, this is the only place where the input
RPM can vary for a fixed output RPM).  Again, this has nothing to do with
the aluminum heads directly, unless the change in the engine's power band
has changed the lockup characteristics of the torque converter.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 09:03:57 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: Indexing plugs-Don't re-gap spark plugs??

What exactly is indexing plugs anyway? What are the Benefits? How do you
index them?

======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
17 Wins 11 Losses
======================


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	KWhite5590@aol.com [SMTP:KWhite5590@aol.com]
	Sent:	Wednesday, August 26, 1998 4:19 AM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	Re: Don't re-gap spark plugs??

	Chad,

	Its been my experience that the ignition system can be finicky.You
should
	never run plugs right out of the box.Always check the gap before
installing
	the plugs.They might be close but I have never found them to be
right on
	money.
	I have no experience with the rapid-fires,but I do with Bosch
Platinums.I've
	run them
	in every car since they came out, with fantastic results.
	I would go ahead and gap the rapid-fires for your year motor and
reinstall
	them.
	Too small a gap doesn't allow the mixture to burn completely.It will
see a
	larger
	flame with more gap.And if you want a few extra ponies try indexing
your
	plugs,
	or filing the contact back to the center of the electrode.
	the latter suggestion is from Myron at T.P.I. specailties in Chaska
Minn.
	this is my $.02

	Kevin White
	83 Cutlass Supreme
	FE3X clone

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 09:59:52 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Power Bands (was:Compression from Flat-Tops...)

I agree it would be insane to try to run a WC engine in my 75 Delta but
I also wonder if I could "borrow" some of their technology in order to
give me a stronger engine. 650 HP from a relatively "small" engine is no
small feat. But if I could boost the HP in my 350 by another 50-100
horses it might be worth a look-see.
______________

The problem with any race engine vs a street engine is flexibility.  The
engine in a street car must operate over the entire power range from idle
to 5000 or 6000 rpm.  Virtually all race engines are optimized to provide
max power within a narrow operating band, followed by ensuring (through
gearing) that the engine remains in that operating band for as long as
possible.  The result is that in both stock cars and drag cars, you'll see
carb, port, and valve sizes designed to maximize HP at a very specific (and
usually high) rpm.  The tradeoff is that HP, and more importantly, torque,
is down dramatically at lower rpms.  The classic example of this is the
Ford 351 Cleveland motor:  the heads used on the 4bbl cars have ports which
designed to optimize high rpm flow and power, with the result that the 2bbl
heads, with their smaller ports, are a much preferred choice on the street.
Ultimately, the best street motor, IMHO, is the one with a torque curve
that's as high and as flat as possible from 1500 to 5000 rpm.  Torque rules
on the street, and the 455 Olds is one of the best torque motors around.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 09:40:14 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: UPDATE aluminum heads!

What actually happened is when he put it all back together with the heads
this little bird (or any critter) came over and adjusted the idle speed
screw..
Happened to me once....

all in good humor.   :P

Brett Wilson
:)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM <Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 8:52 AM
Subject: Re: UPDATE aluminum heads!


>To a point it does. My engine is more efficient. I don't have to press the
>gass to
>give me the output to do 85. Now my engine can run 85 mph at a lower rpm
>because
>it puts out more power and does so more efficiently. Make sense? Atleast
>that's my
>explanation for the awesome changes I have encountered.
>
>ben

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 10:46:11 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Power Bands (was:Compression from Flat-Tops...)

So to put it simply.......
You can't have your cake and eat it too.
Thanks Joe

Mark Hahn
75D88RC

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 09:47:47 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Indexing sparkplugs

What exactly is indexing spark plugs and what benefits can you gain from
this?  How do I index my spark plugs?
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
17 Wins 11 Losses
======================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 09:47:35 -0500
From: "Jim Brain" <jim_brain@csgsystems.com>
Subject: RE: A couple questions for the folks in Olds land

The 84 AND the 79 both have the factory astroroof

The 79 has a 260, the 84 has a 307.

Jim

- --
Jim Brain
Intranet Systems Supervisor
(402) 431-7754
jim_brain@csgsystems.com


- -----Original Message-----
From:	oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Jason Adcock
Sent:	Tuesday, August 25, 1998 6:27 PM
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:	Re: A couple questions for the folks in Olds land

What about roof options on the '84?  And what engine does it have?  It might
very well make sense to start with the '84 as a base car, like you
mentioned, unless it has a something like the 3.8-liter V6 with a million
miles on it, etc.

Oh, and welcome to the list.  :-)  It's truly a great forum for us Olds
fans.

Jason Adcock
1984 Cutlass Calais Coupe
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Brain <jim_brain@csgsystems.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 6:52 PM
Subject: A couple questions for the folks in Olds land


>You see the dilemna.   Any people who've been in this situation?   Is there
>some hope for my car I haven't noticed?  Body shop gave my 1500.00 estimate
>to paint my 79, not including top/headliner/bumpers/interior.  I got
$500.00
>to paint the 84.
>
>Jim Brain

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 09:52:20 -0500
From: "Jim Brain" <jim_brain@csgsystems.com>
Subject: RE: parts for 83

If I decide to get my 84 cutlass (see my newbie msg), I could part out my 79
(which includes a functioning astroroof) for your parts.

However, it'd be nice if there was some other folks looking for 79 parts
that I could make it worth my whiel to pull the thing apart.

Jim

- --
Jim Brain
Intranet Systems Supervisor
(402) 431-7754
jim_brain@csgsystems.com


- -----Original Message-----
From:	oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of KWhite5590@aol.com
Sent:	Wednesday, August 26, 1998 5:03 AM
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:	parts for 83

To the list

 Does any one know where I can get parts for my Cutlass's Astro-roof?
 Replacement parts for It from the dealer were discontinued 2/3 years ago.
 I fell like I'm in a F-body with T-tops.
 The roof won"t seal up into it's opening.one of the drive cables is broken.
 And the outer seal could stand to be replaced also.
                                HELP PLEASE

Kevin (gettin rained on in the car) White
83Cutlass Supreme
FE3X clone

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 09:19:13 -0600
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: RE: starter problems, please h*lp

> stan
>
> how much did that "hi tork start-her" run ya and from where did you get
> it???  i've had several starters in my 72/455 including the $89
> "premium" model from NAPA and they do the job for a few months then crap
> out.  i think the solenoid crys for mercy when that engine warms up on a
> nice 90-100 degree day here in richmond.
>
> joe g

I don't know what starter my '72 Cutlass has in it, but I can tell you that
for the past 8 years, I haven't had a single problem with it (knock on
wood).  And that's without a heat shield, living in the desert where the
average summer temp runs about 105 - 115 F.  And on top of that, my Cutlass
runs hotter than normal (because I don't have a fan shroud, and I drive it
with a lead foot).  Maybe I should get under there and find out what brand
it is or who rebuilt it?  I've had lots of problems with the starter on my
Ch*vy truck, but never with the Olds...

Later,
Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 11:34:15 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: starter problems, please h*lp

Kijowski, Stan wrote:
>
> i just put a 455 in my 72 cutlass conv.   using the original battery and
> starter and mine would crank/turn real slow (kinda like trying to start the
> beast in sub zero weather).    i put a new hi torque starter and a brand new
> 850 cca (cold cranking amps) battery in it and it starts just fine now.

Well, it's only a stock 350 2bbl, I could understand if it was this
hi-po 455. But when I turn the key...nothing...not even a click! I know
the battery was getting power because we hooked jumpers to my buddy's
truck and my car and it still wouldn't do anything. Is the new starter
maybe not getting any power?

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
         777777 33333
            77      33
Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
          77        33
         77     33333
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 08:28:55 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Q-Jet adjustment Q.

I rebuilt the Quadrajet on my '78 Cutlass this past weekend and I think
I touched something I wasn't supposed to.  In front of the hanger for
the primiary metering rods in a "stop" that screws in.  There's a post
on the front of the hanger that hits this stop.  I assume this is to
adjust the base height of the metering rods.  I took the stop out for
cleaning, not realizing it was an adjustment (so I didn't count turns or
anything like that).  I figured out my error right away and attempted to
guess at it's old height.

Can anyone tell me the proper adjustment for this "stop"?  How critical
is it and what's the likely effect of it being misadjusted?

On the up side, the car seems to run fine with the adjustment the way it
is.  Since this is my beater, I don't care about ultimate power and tune
so much, as long as it runs okay and doesn't damage the engine. . .  The
carb rebuild was certainly helpful, the car runs all around better.  I
didn't solve the crank-for-twenty-seconds-to-start problem after the car
sits for more than a day (I was *sure* it was the well plugs leaking,
guess I was wrong), I'll probably just live with the problem.

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 10:31:18 -0500
From: "Kijowski, Stan" <SKIJOWSKI@midland.com>
Subject: RE: starter problems, please h*lp

it was an ac delco hi torque starter and it cost around $100. i could get
the p/n for you tonight, if you want it,  when i go home. i got it from a
friend of mine who works at a  heavy duty truck dealership.  i have an ace
electric high temp starter solenoid i could put on it just in case there
might be a temperature problem, but there hasn't been a problem yet.

> ----------
> From: 	Joseph Gambaccini[SMTP:jgambaccini@ci.richmond.va.us]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Wednesday, August 26, 1998 7:49 AM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: starter problems, please h*lp
>
> stan
>
> how much did that "hi tork start-her" run ya and from where did you get
> it???  i've had several starters in my 72/455 including the $89
> "premium" model from NAPA and they do the job for a few months then crap
> out.  i think the solenoid crys for mercy when that engine warms up on a
> nice 90-100 degree day here in richmond.
>
> joe g
>
>
> Kijowski, Stan wrote:
> >
> > i just put a 455 in my 72 cutlass conv.   using the original battery and
> > starter and mine would crank/turn real slow (kinda like trying to start
> the
> > beast in sub zero weather).    i put a new hi torque starter and a brand
> new
> > 850 cca (cold cranking amps) battery in it and it starts just fine now.
> >
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 08:47:12 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: starter problems, please h*lp

At 12:54 AM 8/26/98 +0100, you wrote:
>I managed to tow my newly aquired 70 Cutlass S home last night. It was
>supposed to run, but wouldn't turn over. All it did was "click". What
>does this mean? Anyhow, after fiddling around with it for awhile, I
>decided to buy a new starter. I finally got it all back together,
>re-wired right and everything. Go to try the key....nothing...not even a
>click this time, on a new starter!! Dash lights light up, lights turn
>on, it's getting power. What do I do?

try swaping the yelow and purple wire.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 10:53:45 -0500
From: "Kijowski, Stan" <SKIJOWSKI@midland.com>
Subject: RE: starter problems, please h*lp

i am relatively new at this car stuff, so although my answers may not be
correct, this would be my thought process in finding out what may be causing
this problem.
since you are not getting a "click" and you probably have had the battery
tested to make sure it is good, i would assume the starter is not getting
power or the starter solenoid is bad. maybe the solenoid is shot, there are
bad wire connections, ignition switch, neutral safety switch, or who knows
what else it could be.   but  start with the starter. i would try to "jump
start" the starter solenoid with a screwdriver to see if the starter is even
working. this may not be a recommended practice, but that is what i would
do. if it does, then you have a "signal" problem. if the battery is good and
the starter works with the "jump start" method, then it  could be the
ignition  or neutral safety switch or broken/bad connections between them
and the starter solenoid.
it is a trial and error process.
> Well, it's only a stock 350 2bbl, I could understand if it was this
> hi-po 455. But when I turn the key...nothing...not even a click! I know
> the battery was getting power because we hooked jumpers to my buddy's
> truck and my car and it still wouldn't do anything. Is the new starter
> maybe not getting any power?
>
> --
> *************
> Matt Cremean
> mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
>          777777 33333
>             77      33
> Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
>           77        33
>          77     33333
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
> **************************************************
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 02:56:38 -0400
From: "Kerr, Brian (R)" <kerrb@basf-corp.com>
Subject: Jetting Carb

     I have a 69 Cutlass Conv with a 455 from a 71 442. It has stock deep
dish pistons and C heads on a fresh rebuild (1-2K ago), GM HEI ignition, and
a Q-Jet from a 1978 455 (application and jets unknown) I am looking for
jetting and carb set up information to get optimum power, but trying to
maintain a reasonable level of economy. The car has 1:2.78 (?) gears, so is
not a serious 1/4 miler, just a peppy cruiser. I have a rebuild kit for it,
but have not attempted to rebuild carb yet. It seems to run well, but I do
not know what fuel economy is yet. It has run about 120-130 miles on the
road since reassembling the car. (2 years in the process) I took the carb
off it 2 years ago and stuck it in a cardboard box. I gave it scrub down
with carb cleaner, and a new base gasket and stuck it back on. The extent of
my tuning consists only of setting the timing by ear. When warm it starts
and runs instantly, but after it has sat for a bit (overnight) I have to
pump the accelerator while cranking until it gets gas and it fires and runs
immediately. Some times it has to be pumped repeatedly in order to get fuel
to the carb. It has a new fuel pump. It idles very smooth once it is warm,
but idles rough when cold as the choke is not hooked up. There seems to be
some parts missing for the choke. Any body got some ideas or base line
recommendations. I also have the Qjet that came off the original '69 350 -
condition unknown.

     Planning on getting certification on Saturday so I can LEGALLY drive
it.

TIA
Brian Kerr
69 Cutlass Conv

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 11:04:49 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: urls needed

hi guys,

i lost my url of the site which had pics of all the models of olds wheels
from end sixties to the eighties. Can someone send me the url again?

also i would like to have an olds screensaver since i got a PC at work
now. Any downloadable one for win95/nt out there?

Thanks!
George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 12:14:01 EDT
From: <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: starter problems, please h*lp

In a message dated 8/25/98 11:51:19 PM EST, ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
writes:

<< I managed to tow my newly aquired 70 Cutlass S home last night. It was
 supposed to run, but wouldn't turn over. All it did was "click". What
 does this mean? Anyhow, after fiddling around with it for awhile, I
 decided to buy a new starter. I finally got it all back together,
 re-wired right and everything. Go to try the key....nothing...not even a
 click this time, on a new starter!! Dash lights light up, lights turn
 on, it's getting power. What do I do?
 --
 *************
 Matt Cremean >>

Provided the battery is good (fully charged), it sounds like your solenoid is
gone.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 12:21:56 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: timing question

Joe,

Timing stats?  Here on our circle track stock car, static timing is set
at..............36 degrees before TDC.  (WHAAAAAAAHOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
What a screamin' 350!  Sorry, I just had to do that.)  No vacuum or
centrifigual advance, just set it and go.  However, on the street this
combination would not get past the first gas station, and then would refuse to
accept the unleaded they sell.

As for the F-word solenoid, we have it on both race cars, and on my '80
Starfire GT as well.  It's the best way to go, I've even heard that GM used
something like this on some motorhomes or some other heavy duty applications.

Two posts in one night makes you feel like a regular?  Heck, you ARE a regular
- -- welcome to the crowd!

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
http://members.aol.com/ks7racing/index.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 12:33:24 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: A couple questions for the folks in Olds land

I'd suggest that you start off with the '84, unless there's you have a real
attachment to the '79.  They have comparable roof options, both have the V8
engine; the 307 will be somewhat stronger than the 260.  And I think you
said that the '84 was in much better shape, body-wise.

The facts seem to point to the '84, but if the '79 has sentimental value to
you, it might be worth it to _you_ to keep up the '79.

My $0.02...

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Brain <jim_brain@csgsystems.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 10:55 AM
Subject: RE: A couple questions for the folks in Olds land


>The 84 AND the 79 both have the factory astroroof
>
>The 79 has a 260, the 84 has a 307.
>
>Jim
>
>--
>Jim Brain
>Intranet Systems Supervisor
>(402) 431-7754
>jim_brain@csgsystems.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 09:35:00 -0700
From: "David Seiver - Account Executive" <DavidS@AnaServe.com>
Subject: 1967

http://www.oldsmobile.net/1967.jpg


David Seiver
Account Representative
AnaServe, Inc. - The Future of Web Hosting
Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283
Fax: 714.250.7265
e-mail: davids@anaserve.com
Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 12:36:42 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: parts for 83

Is that '79 a Calais?  I know *I'm* looking for a few misc. Calais parts,
and Calais cars are relatively rare, so other folks on here might need
Calais parts, too...

Please let us know...

Thanks.

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Brain <jim_brain@csgsystems.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 11:01 AM
Subject: RE: parts for 83


>If I decide to get my 84 cutlass (see my newbie msg), I could part out my
79
>(which includes a functioning astroroof) for your parts.
>
>However, it'd be nice if there was some other folks looking for 79 parts
>that I could make it worth my whiel to pull the thing apart.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 09:43:51 -0700
From: "David Seiver - Account Executive" <DavidS@AnaServe.com>
Subject: RE: 1967

oops!
it will be up on thursday.
http://www.oldsmobile.net/1967.jpgDavid Seiver
Account Representative
AnaServe, Inc. - The Future of Web Hosting
Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283
Fax: 714.250.7265
e-mail: davids@anaserve.com
Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of David Seiver -
> Account Executive
> Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 9:35 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 1967
> Importance: High
>
>
> http://www.oldsmobile.net/1967.jpg
>
>
> David Seiver
> Account Representative
> AnaServe, Inc. - The Future of Web Hosting
> Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283
> Fax: 714.250.7265
> e-mail: davids@anaserve.com
> Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 12:49:14 EDT
From: <CRuper1@aol.com>
Subject: Re: starter problems, please h*lp

In a message dated 8/26/98 10:36:09 AM EST, ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
writes:

<< Kijowski, Stan wrote:
 >
 > i just put a 455 in my 72 cutlass conv.   using the original battery and
 > starter and mine would crank/turn real slow (kinda like trying to start the
 > beast in sub zero weather).    i put a new hi torque starter and a brand
new
 > 850 cca (cold cranking amps) battery in it and it starts just fine now.

 Well, it's only a stock 350 2bbl, I could understand if it was this
 hi-po 455. But when I turn the key...nothing...not even a click! I know
 the battery was getting power because we hooked jumpers to my buddy's
 truck and my car and it still wouldn't do anything. Is the new starter
 maybe not getting any power?

 --
 *************
 Matt Cremean >>

As I asked in a previous post, is the battery good?  The reason I ask is this.
The battery has to be in some state of charge to get things to turn over. I
have had batteries that are completely dead, and giving a jump from another
car did nothing.  Check the voltage on the battery with a volt meter, it
should be at 12 volts.  Anything less indicates the battery isn't charged
fully.  Depending on what you find here (checking the battery) will determine
your next step.  I'm betting your battery is dead.  Do you have a short
somewhere draining the battery?  Was the ALT light coming on before this
happened (maybe it is burnt out)?  I'd start at the battery, and work through
the system from there.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 12:48:21 EDT
From: <KS7RACING@aol.com>
Subject: Winston Cup Engines (Was Re: Compression from Flat-Tops, etc.)

Mark,

I don't think you'd want to consider the prospect of street driving a typical
Winston Cup engine.

For starters, they have a dry-sump oiling system, which requires a huge tank,
usually located behind the driver and a load of braided hoses that suck the
oil out of the pan from several locations.  Capacity: around 14 quarts (oil
changes each week make it costly)

Fuel: nothing but 100+ octane leaded fuel, and it has quite an appetite (!)

Getting past those, they don't like idling well.  They can run from 7000
restricted to over 8500 on an unrestricted track or road course.  But this
comes at a price: an engine never goes over one event without being rebuilt.
And some don't make it that long (BOOM!)

However, we can employ some of the technology and tricks they do:
Cold air intake instead of underhood air.
Electric fan instead of engine-driven.
All the usual engine building tricks, like port matching and combustion
chamber polishing.
Working to keep the rotating weight as low as possible (330 cranks in 350's
work well here).
Selection of parts that can give weight reduction and yet still be strong
enough to work.
And especially, careful selection of parts that optimize whatever combination
you have.

The prospect of a Winston Cup-type of engine is a neat idea (heck, I'd love to
have one)!, but I don't think most of it is possible.  And just because I said
that, someone will eventually try it out.  So to them: Oops -- guess I spoke
too soon!  Oh well, doesn't bother me to be proven wrong, just glad that I got
you to thinking.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder (NASCAR Member)
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 13:01:25 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: starter problems, please h*lp

Bob Blanchard wrote:
>
>
> try swaping the yelow and purple wire.

it's so cruddy under there I can't tell which is which. Those are the
two littler wires on the selonoid right? If so, tried that.

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
         777777 33333
            77      33
Cutlass    77    3333   Supreme
          77        33
         77     33333
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 13:02:56 EDT
From: <Supafli50@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Hurricane Message

good luck

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 98 12:38:45 -0500
From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Subject: JWO&OCA - More Q than A (Unofficial reply)

This is what I know and have gathered over the last month:

It was me, not Greg Childs w/ the OCA Nat's Update (Greg doesn't own a VCR, 
much
less a PC.....yet)

The new OCA phone numbers and emails have been up on the OCA WebSite since the
beginning of August, just go to http://www.oldsclub.org and click on "Contact
OCA"

No one, not even her close friends in Lansing, know exactly what provoked Penny
to quit on such short notice.  I have a couple theories but won't go into them
publicly. (Although look in the July & August JWO classifieds and look for a
"private" collection becoming available, w/ a Louisiana address) Penny shipped
over 50 boxes of OCA stuff to Greg Childs (including a PC), disconnected the 
OCA
phone numbers and had them forwarded to Greg's house, and cancelled the OCA PO
Box in Lansing.  Let's just say that Penny quit without notice and leave it at
that.

Greg had to sort out thru the boxes and sent all pertinant membership 
paperwork,
including new and renewal memberships to Sharlene Pearson, membership manager.
Remember, going thru 50+ boxes of not completely organizes office stuff is not 
a
quick or easy job.

Ken & Marsha Nicholas high tailed it from the Nationals back to Lansing to get
the PO box reactivated and new phone numbers established.  Marsha is now the
"Communications Coordinator" for OCA.  In other words, she sorts the mail,
forwards it, does bank drops, answers the phone/fax and does other stuff Penny
did, except JWO.  There should have been a notice of the new contact info sent
to each zone director & OCA Chapter.  Marsha picked up the ball incredibly 
quick
and should be commended.

Clay Mollman, new JWO editor, did what I believe to be a TREMENDOUS job getting
JWO out as quickly as possible.  It even included a trip to Lansing from
Louisiana to meet with Lansing Lithographers.  He does need articles though.
Regular contributors sent in articles prior to the nationals, but he still 
needs
individual stories, like your experiences at the OCA Nat's or the Oldsmobile
drags of Mondello & Miller.

I'm in the thick of it as I put in a bid to update the membership software from
dBaseIV to MS Access, (then move it to a Visual Basic package using the Access
database) basically putting a front end and query/report abilities into it as
what was done in dBaseIV.  This should make Sharlene's job easier.

Also, now there are e-mail addresses of different parts of OCA now and can be
found at the Web Site.  The appropriate people are now setting up their e-mail
software to access them and reply.  I am doing the WebGuy@oldsclub.org 
addressed
messages.

Hope this clears up some points to the OCA members on the list.

Now for a monster Signature file!

 -----  Brad Nicholson (OCA's WebGuy)
|  |  | OCA# 18984
|  |  | 1987 442 W-42
|  |  | 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
|  |  | President, Oldsmobile Centennial Club (Maryland Chapter of OCA)
|  |  | Oldsmobile Centennial Club Web Site: http://www.erols.com/brad442/occ
| /|\ | H: brad442@erols.com
|/ | \| W: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
|  |  | OCA: WebGuy@oldsclub.org
 -----  Oldsmobile Club of America Web Site: http://www.oldsclub.org

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 12:03:19 -0500
From: "Jim Brain" <jim_brain@csgsystems.com>
Subject: RE: parts for 83

Nope, both are cutlii supreme broghams.

Can someone fill me in on the cutlass types?

I always thought the brogham was the top of the line.  Is that not true?

Is the calais a sportier cutlass than the supreme?

Jim

- --
Jim Brain
Intranet Systems Supervisor
(402) 431-7754
jim_brain@csgsystems.com


- -----Original Message-----
From:	oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Jason Adcock
Sent:	Wednesday, August 26, 1998 11:37 AM
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:	Re: parts for 83

Is that '79 a Calais?  I know *I'm* looking for a few misc. Calais parts,
and Calais cars are relatively rare, so other folks on here might need
Calais parts, too...

Please let us know...

Thanks.

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Brain <jim_brain@csgsystems.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 11:01 AM
Subject: RE: parts for 83


>If I decide to get my 84 cutlass (see my newbie msg), I could part out my
79
>(which includes a functioning astroroof) for your parts.
>
>However, it'd be nice if there was some other folks looking for 79 parts
>that I could make it worth my whiel to pull the thing apart.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 10:20:50 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Proportioning Valves Revisited...

Why don't you just get an adjustable one from Wilwood?
Jeg's and PAW have 'em.

cf

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 12:30:53 -0500
From: "Jim Brain" <jim_brain@csgsystems.com>
Subject: RE: A couple questions for the folks in Olds land

I do have an attachment to it, but I have a new son (our first), so I have
to be somewhat conscious of the money that will be dumped into the vehicle.

Some intangible reasons I am leaning towards the 84 myself:

I've had the 79 since 88.  My wife knows it from then.  It's had problems,
and my wife got stranded in it a few times (carb likes to be pumped before
starting, but it's picky).  My thought is that even if we fix the car to
perfect condition, we'll still be leery of taking it anywhere a ways off.
That I cannot have, since the olds will become our "main" car (hence the
importance of reliability in my olds....)  We do have a truck, but the olds
will need to make the trip from Nebraska to Illinois at least once a year
for visits to parents.  I don't want my wife to be worried about our
"wheels" when we take off.  (obviously things happen, but still)

The 84 may not actually be any more reliable, but we at least don't know it
isn't right now, if you know what I mean.

Jim


- --
Jim Brain
Intranet Systems Supervisor
(402) 431-7754
jim_brain@csgsystems.com


- -----Original Message-----
From:	oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Jason Adcock
Sent:	Wednesday, August 26, 1998 11:33 AM
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:	Re: A couple questions for the folks in Olds land

I'd suggest that you start off with the '84, unless there's you have a real
attachment to the '79.  They have comparable roof options, both have the V8
engine; the 307 will be somewhat stronger than the 260.  And I think you
said that the '84 was in much better shape, body-wise.

The facts seem to point to the '84, but if the '79 has sentimental value to
you, it might be worth it to _you_ to keep up the '79.

My $0.02...

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Brain <jim_brain@csgsystems.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 10:55 AM
Subject: RE: A couple questions for the folks in Olds land


>The 84 AND the 79 both have the factory astroroof
>
>The 79 has a 260, the 84 has a 307.
>
>Jim
>
>--
>Jim Brain
>Intranet Systems Supervisor
>(402) 431-7754
>jim_brain@csgsystems.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 11:40:15 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Hurricane Message

Just throw all the valuables into the Vista Cruiser and/or 98, and go
storm-chasing,

"Sweet dreams and Olds machines, flying safely through the sky"

Good luck!

Eric
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/

Jim & Joanne Chermack wrote:
>
> To all,
>
>         I may not be able to repond after tomorrow for a few days. We are
> bracing for "Bonnie" to arrive tomorrow evening in Virginia Beach. We
> haven't headed to high ground yet but may have to. I will get back with
> everyone as soon as possible.
>
> Thanks
> Jim Chermack
> C&M Classic Parts

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 13:58:29 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Winston Cuppers was: Compression from Flat-Tops was  Pistons questi

In a message dated 98-08-26 01:18:57 EDT, you write:

<< I wonder if maybe instead of building an engine for the strip you could
 build one more like a Winston Cup car. 358 cubic inches-650 horses. Of
 course they do run mostly WOT for 500 miles at a time. Never thought
 about if their setups would be more streetable >>

Well, if you pull the restrictor plate, they MIGHT do 8's in the 1/4 mile.....

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 10:56:49 -0700
From: "Corey Day" <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Exhaust ?'s

I am getting close to installing a 68 455 into a 1970 Cutlass, since I do
not have the correct exhaust manifolds I am considering hedders/2.5 inch
system with a cross-over pipe and 3 chamber Flowmasters.

Does anyone have any recommendations/experiences with this or a similiar
situation?  Also has anyone used the Flowmaster "A" body exhaust kit???

Thanks,

Corey Day
dayc@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 13:58:28 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Starter, multitester was: starter problems, please h*lp

In a message dated 98-08-26 11:36:26 EDT, you write:

<< Well, it's only a stock 350 2bbl, I could understand if it was this hi-po
455. But when I turn the key...nothing...not even a click! >>

Actually not much difference between the two.
Starting motor's job still to get going from a dead stop!

You said before that at the first, it just clicked.
Was that a single click per key turn or how did it sound?
Single click= solenoid popping
(or pinion poped and got caught in flywheel)

Multiple (fast) clicks = low voltage from battery

And now that I have mentioned it. On my car I can crawl underneath, (using a
floor jack + jack stands mind you!) and peer into the small "window " in which
the pinion contacts the flexplate and see if the pinion is stuck on the
flexplate or not.

If you have just replaced the starter, that is definitely one thing to check.

I, personally am guilty of exchanging a great starter (less than one month old
on the remanufacture!) for one that needed more that three shims (and still
stuck on the flexplate!). I tried to get the "core" starter back, but failed
(shipped out morning after exchange, could not locate exact "core" at hub.
Instead I kept the crummy starter and will use the solenoid to replace parts
on the original (?) [[hey, it worked]] starting motor.

And now an opinion;
Oldsmobilers,
       Aquire for yourselves a GOOD multitester. I have found that even the
antequated one that I have (cannot measure less than 1 volt, or measure 1 volt
accurately) is INVALUABLE in troubleshooting! Especially for electrical
problems! The key features must be Volts, AMPeres, and Resistance (or Imedance
for audiophiles). My Chassis Manual outlines a procedure for testing the
starting circuit that involves getting the voltage reading between at least
eight different points.

Plus it take less than 5 minutes to tell if the problem is your battery or
not!

I plan on getting a NICE one from Active Electronics (a retailer).

Andy Green?
Do you have a favorite brand?
Or do you have a Fluke tester?

For that matter do you have an Oldsmobile?

Whoops!
Sorry!
Started to flame Andy!

Dint mean it!  (much!)

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 13:58:24 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Indexing sparkplugs

In a message dated 98-08-26 10:49:15 EDT, you write:

<< What exactly is indexing spark plugs and what benefits can you gain from
this?  How do I index my spark plugs? >>

OOH! ME!

Here is what I think I know;
(I think)

Indexing your spark plug means installing each one so that the electrode faces
the exhaust port.

The best way to acomplish this is to mark on the insulator before installation
(Karl uses a "China" marker).

The idea behind this is to get fuel ignition to begin as close to the exhaust
port as possible so that the ensuing (I am talking microseconds here)
combustion tends to radiate out into the rest of the vicinity cylinder of the
exhaust port. Hopefully this results in any uncombusted residue being FAR from
the exhaust port.

Ideally this situation should reduce the likelyhood of ..... (Drat! it was in
the Perf Prof's lecures [www.racermall.com] and I cannot recall the name!)....

OK. From the beginning.

At high RPMs there is a point at the end of the exhaust stroke when BOTH
valves are open (at least somewhat!). [[No,......no..... so that is where the
good Scotch went! no ..... no .... aha!]] well I found the printouts but do
not have time to look through them now. The term that I am looking for may be
"blow down" but am not certain.

Anyroad.
There is the possibility that some of the vapors that should be exhausted get
drawn back into the cylinder at high RPM. Thus the best way to force that
exhaust tailing to be actually combustible is to arrange ignition near the
exhaust port, so that the fuel partially, or un-combusted, is the last to be
drawn through the valve!

And there are a few other issues of volumetric efficiency.

I had forgotten about indexing.
Should prolly try it with the Champions that I used to replace the Splitfires.

Hmmm...

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 14:31:36 EDT
From: <RICH6986@aol.com>
Subject: color of valve cover???????

i am looking for the original color for the valve covers for my 82 cutlass
supreme its a v-6 3.8 it has some light blue but i want to repaint it the
original color is that it if so is there a # for it like 321 gm blue that
color looked like it  TIA rich

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 13:48:09 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: Indexing sparkplugs

Thanks Karl

I guess that only 4 spark plugs are index then toward the exhaust ports then
right?
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
17 Wins 11 Losses
======================


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	KarlAune@aol.com [SMTP:KarlAune@aol.com]
	Sent:	Wednesday, August 26, 1998 12:58 PM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	Re: Indexing sparkplugs

	In a message dated 98-08-26 10:49:15 EDT, you write:

	<< What exactly is indexing spark plugs and what benefits can you
gain from
	this?  How do I index my spark plugs? >>

	OOH! ME!

	Here is what I think I know;
	(I think)

	Indexing your spark plug means installing each one so that the
electrode faces
	the exhaust port.

	The best way to acomplish this is to mark on the insulator before
installation
	(Karl uses a "China" marker).

	The idea behind this is to get fuel ignition to begin as close to
the exhaust
	port as possible so that the ensuing (I am talking microseconds
here)
	combustion tends to radiate out into the rest of the vicinity
cylinder of the
	exhaust port. Hopefully this results in any uncombusted residue
being FAR from
	the exhaust port.

	Ideally this situation should reduce the likelyhood of ..... (Drat!
it was in
	the Perf Prof's lecures [www.racermall.com] and I cannot recall the
name!)....

	OK. From the beginning.

	At high RPMs there is a point at the end of the exhaust stroke when
BOTH
	valves are open (at least somewhat!). [[No,......no..... so that is
where the
	good Scotch went! no ..... no .... aha!]] well I found the printouts
but do
	not have time to look through them now. The term that I am looking
for may be
	"blow down" but am not certain.

	Anyroad.
	There is the possibility that some of the vapors that should be
exhausted get
	drawn back into the cylinder at high RPM. Thus the best way to force
that
	exhaust tailing to be actually combustible is to arrange ignition
near the
	exhaust port, so that the fuel partially, or un-combusted, is the
last to be
	drawn through the valve!

	And there are a few other issues of volumetric efficiency.

	I had forgotten about indexing.
	Should prolly try it with the Champions that I used to replace the
Splitfires.

	Hmmm...

	SOM
	&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 14:52:27 -0400
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: color of valve cover???????

Rich

        GM corperate blue is the correct color.

Jim Chermack

At 02:31 PM 8/26/1998 EDT, you wrote:
>i am looking for the original color for the valve covers for my 82 cutlass
>supreme its a v-6 3.8 it has some light blue but i want to repaint it the
>original color is that it if so is there a # for it like 321 gm blue that
>color looked like it  TIA rich
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 13:24:29 -0500
From: "Reed, Steve" <sreed@cp.varco.com>
Subject: Crank Mods

>>Subject: Crank Mods

>>I didn't know about this bearing/bushing.  I wouldn't be to wild
>>about cutting the input shaft of my M-22 to accommodate the swap.

>Steve,
>Here is the reply I got from Greg Rollins some time ago.  As you will
read the
>mod is not major.  There is quite a bit of tip on the end of those
Muncie
>input shafts and it should leave more than enough to work with a
standard
>pilot bushing later if need be.

>Dave Wyatt
>70  4-4-2

Dave,
	Thanx for the follow up.  It is pretty strange, I don't
understand WHY Muncie Corp would have made the input shaft longer on an
M-22 than an M-21.  More support for the front of the shaft?  I'm
clueless.  I have on of each and the M-22 is approximately .625 longer
than the M-21.

Anyone have any thoughts on this??


Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 10:46:21 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: timing question

I run 22 degrees on my '84 307.  Most all Olds engines I've worked on
(which admittedly are all small blocks) use 20 degrees of timing.
Including the '77 350 in my SO's truck.  Compared to the 305 Ch*vy in my
'78 Cutlass which runs at a whopping four degrees.

>  Secondly, I noticed that my timing mark seems
>to jump around 2 or 3 degrees at idle.  Do you think this is caused 1)
>by the lope of the engine due to the cam, combined with the light
>centrifical advance springs or 2) a problem with my HEI, or 3) my cheap

>timing light?

Probably a combination of 1) and 4) slack in the timing chain.  My 307
does the same thing, but it has over 100000 miles on it.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 15:17:39 EDT
From: <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: re:index plugs

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- --part0_904159059_boundary
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Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

:)

- --part0_904159059_boundary
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In a message dated 8/26/98, 7:49:15 AM, oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca writes:
<<What exactly is indexing spark plugs and what benefits can you gain fro=
m
this?  How do I index my spark plugs?>>
 Indexing is making the plugs gap area face the exhaust valve. This is op=
posite the ground strap.There is a kit at summit for this part# CSI-500 $=
50(comes w/ instructions). The cheaper way is to take a black marker and =
put a line on the outside of the plug(the portion that the boot covers). =
This line will indicate where the gap area is on the plug, so as you tigh=
ten the plug into the head you will know which way it is facing. Now you =
need to add a shim in order to have the plug face the right way. The purc=
hase of a shim kit is needed.Never had a car on a dyno to see the benefit=
s, but it cant hurt,and who knows maybe it will give you the slight edge =
over the guy next to you. Hope this was helpfull

Joe


- --part0_904159059_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 12:22:06 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: A word on Just Dashes

All,
You've probably heard me opine on their work before.
They recover old cracked dashes perfectly. But for
66 Big Olds dashes, this costs $450 these days and
takes about 6 weeks. I think the quality worth the cost,
but that's a personal thing.

Anyway, since we've decided (me & girlfriend) to do the
Starfire interior in Parchment, not red, the dash needs
to be recovered in Black.

So I'm thinking, ouch, another $450. But no. Turns out
they cover all their dashes in black vinyl, then color match
the vinyl skin. So for $80 and 5-8 days they will recolor my
dash in Black.

Cool no? I would work with these guys anytime.

usual non-affiliation stuff applies.

cf

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 15:22:50 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: parts for 83

Here's the basic run-down of the G-Body Cutlass cars:

Cutlass Supreme - "Base" car.  No special equipment as standard features.  I
believe that most equipment available (and standard) on nicer models was
available on the base model, but I'm not sure.

Cutlass Supreme Brougham - "Luxury" car.  This was the plush Cutlass.  Very
thick soft seats.  I'm not sure if the buckets/console was available on
these cars.  Possibly, the plush bench seat was the only front seat offered.

Cutlass Calais Coupe - "Sporty" car.  The Calais was only offered as a
coupe.  The Calaises came standard with the following: Rallye gauges, bucket
seats, center console, larger front swaybar, rear swaybar, body-color SSIII
wheels.  The Hurst/Olds and 442 cars were based on the Calais coupe through
1985(?), possibly 1986.  They were then based on the "base" Cutlass Supreme
cars.

All Cutlasses came standard with the 231 V6 with TH-200-C transmission.

Options offered on all Cutlasses (coupes):  T-Tops, chrome SSIII wheels, all
engine options, TH-200-4R transmission (provided you don't have the 231 V6),
A/C, power accessories, F-41 suspension package, etc.

It looks like Oldsmobile broke the Cutlass into three distinct attitudes -
base, luxury and sporty, although most of the options could be ordered on
any of the three models.

I hope this helps a little.

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Brain <jim_brain@csgsystems.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 1:11 PM
Subject: RE: parts for 83


>Nope, both are cutlii supreme broghams.
>
>Can someone fill me in on the cutlass types?
>
>I always thought the brogham was the top of the line.  Is that not true?
>
>Is the calais a sportier cutlass than the supreme?
>
>Jim
>
>--
>Jim Brain
>Intranet Systems Supervisor
>(402) 431-7754
>jim_brain@csgsystems.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Jason Adcock
>Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 11:37 AM
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Re: parts for 83
>
>Is that '79 a Calais?  I know *I'm* looking for a few misc. Calais parts,
>and Calais cars are relatively rare, so other folks on here might need
>Calais parts, too...
>
>Please let us know...
>
>Thanks.
>
>Jason Adcock
>mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
>http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jim Brain <jim_brain@csgsystems.com>
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 11:01 AM
>Subject: RE: parts for 83
>
>
>>If I decide to get my 84 cutlass (see my newbie msg), I could part out my
>79
>>(which includes a functioning astroroof) for your parts.
>>
>>However, it'd be nice if there was some other folks looking for 79 parts
>>that I could make it worth my whiel to pull the thing apart.
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 15:19:06 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Starter "issue"

In a message dated 98-08-26 09:46:44 EDT, you write:

<< FINALLY, my question is:  Could the neutral safety switch be causing this?
 OR  If not what could it be? >>

     I've had starter run-on problems before. It was caused by the spring that
sits in the solenoid. Disconnect the neutral start switch. If it doesn't turn
over, probably switch. Did you put the ignition wire on the wrong terminal on
the solenoid? Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 15:23:20 EDT
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Jetting Carb

In a message dated 98-08-26 12:00:03 EDT, you write:

<< When warm it starts
 and runs instantly, but after it has sat for a bit (overnight) I have to
 pump the accelerator while cranking until it gets gas and it fires and runs
 immediately. Some times it has to be pumped repeatedly in order to get fuel
 to the carb. It has a new fuel pump. It idles very smooth once it is warm,
 but idles rough when cold as the choke is not hooked up. There seems to be
 some parts missing for the choke. Any body got some ideas or base line
 recommendations. I also have the Qjet that came off the original '69 350 -
 condition unknown. >>

     Brings up a question...pumping the gas sets the choke. Wouldn't continual
pumping with the engine not firing flood the engine? That may well be your
choke not setting when you pump it. You should have to pump the throttle twice
maximum to get the choke to set. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 15:27:14 -0400
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: parts for 83

Oops, sorry I didn't trip all the junk from the bottom of that post.

Dangit, boy...    * slap *

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 15:36:20 EDT
From: <AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RE: Proportioning Valves Revisited...

In a message dated 8/26/98, 10:31:06 AM, oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca writes:
<<Why don't you just get an adjustable one from Wilwood?
Jeg's and PAW have 'em. >>
These adjustables are meant to be used in conjuction with your original valve
to help reduce the press to the rear. If you want to eliminate your current
one and put this in its place good luck on trying to find the fittings to do
so. You could use a union for the front lines no problem. But the main line
from the rear to the original pro block is a strange size and you need to
connect it directly to the line coming from the master which is a differnet
size. I tried to do this but have not been able to find the inverted flares
todo it YET. I guess you could cut the lines and change the fittings but mine
are stainless steel and pretty hard to re flare them so that is not an option.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 15:07:16 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: Crank Mods

>It is pretty strange, I don't
>understand WHY Muncie Corp would have made the input shaft longer on an
>M-22 than an M-21.  More support for the front of the shaft?  I'm
>clueless.  I have on of each and the M-22 is approximately .625 longer
>than the M-21.

Is the spline a different length also or just the tip?  Did you measure the
length of the entire shaft or just what sticks out of the front bearing cover?
In that case is there a difference in the bearing covers between the M22s and
the others?  The length from the front of the case where it mates to the bell
housing to the tip of the shaft is the important one in this case as all the
bell housings should be the same front to back.  If it is just a difference in
the tip that fits into the pilot bushing, length may not make a lot of
difference as the bushings are typically deeper than the tip of the shaft is
long.  It could be a for more support as you suggest as the M22 trannies were
generaly reserved for the higher output engines.  As long as this new bearing
set up does not interfere with the clutch disk, I don't see how it could have
a negative effect.  The shaft support will be slightly closer to the tranny,
which should be a little stronger.


Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1449
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