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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1499


oldsmobile-digest     Tuesday, September 22 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1499



Re: Warm Holley - was Ignition Problem - Need Advice
Re: How much is reupholstering?
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1497

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 10:28:00 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Warm Holley - was Ignition Problem - Need Advice

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 98-09-19 17:45:04 EDT, you write:
>
> << I got on the highway, with a rather heavy foot, drove a mile to my exit,
> and as I decelerated for the ramp nopticed that the engine was running a
> little rough.  When I got to the top of the ramp and made a stop, she was
> running really rough.  I tried to keep her running by feathering the gas only
> to succeed in flooding the engine.  >>
>
> This actually sounds similar to my needle/seat contaminant problem, except I
> have yet to flood the motor under those conditions.
>
> I am curious to know why this can happen because of overwarm Holley fuel
> bowls.

    Karl,

    If the fuel bowls get too warm, the fuel percolates in the bowls.  At idle
speeds the fuel is moving so slowly that it has time to heat up. As the engine
speeds up the fuel moves through faster and doesn't have as much of a problem.
Also, the famous Holley metering block can get warm, too,
just making things worse.

    When this happened right after I put the Holley on I was befuddled and
experimented with all sorts of jet combos, float settings, etc.  It's really
bewildering, at first, because it doesn't show up until everything is really
warm, sometimes several minutes/miles after your temp gauge shows you're at
operating temp.  So, really short trips won't expose the problem.  The only
thing that fixed it was the aluminum spacer between the carb and intake. It's a
four-hole 2" thick spacer from Summit...really torquey!

    I ran a Q-jet for awhile and never had the problem, but this may be because
I had a thick insulating gasket for the Q-jet.


    BTW, I visited your website.  SOM looks like a real bad ride!!!

    Thomas P. Smith
    1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 10:39:58 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Re: How much is reupholstering?

Had my 71 442 white interior and all carpeting done about 12 years ago and it
cost me $1000, so today it would be more. I would not even attempt it my self
unless your an expert at it.
Ron Haun 71 442W30
Orchard Park NY

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 08:00:41 -0700
From: jbholley <jbholley@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1497

oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> oldsmobile-digest     Monday, September 21 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1497
>
> Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3
> Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines
> Re: 400 'E' block/ 425block
> Re: Fw: 67 Cutlass Steering Parts
> 75 0lds 88  convertable parts
> Alternator or Battery
> G-Body Coil Springs
> Re: Alternator or Battery
> FS: New Parts
> Re: Fw: 67 Cutlass Steering Parts
> Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines
> Re: Fw: 67 Cutlass Steering Parts  center link
> Fw: Insurance via net...
> Re: Hurst Shifter For Sale
> Re: 455 block needed
> TDC
> UNBOUNCE: ISO '75 Delta Convert parts
> UNBOUNCE: G-Body Coil Springs
> Re: Fw: 67 Cutlass Steering Parts
> Removing G-body from chassis
> Fair price for engine?
> Re: Removing G-body from chassis
> My Delta's pissing me off again!!!!!!!
> Another Fine Mess I Got My Self Into.......
> Re: Fw: 67 Cutlass Steering Parts
> Scripts-letter reproduction
> Oil Light Problem
> Re-Post:  Camshaft I.D.
> Re: 455 block needed
> Re-Post: Holley SB Intake For Sale
> '72 H/O stripe placement
> [none]
> [none]
> Re: Re-Post: Holley SB Intake For Sale
> Test Message
> Fw: '72 H/O stripe placement
> Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3
> g-body
> Re: Hurst Shifter For Sale
> Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3
> [none]
> Test Message
> White smoke
> q4
> Re: Fair price for engine?
> Re: Removing G-body from chassis
> Re: High Rev's and W's
> Back to original -- engine compartment
> Nearly constant squeal
> Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3
> Re: 1985 442
> Re: Alternator and Voltage Regulator
> Re: Fair price for engine?
> License plate choice
> RE: 1985 442
> Re: Hurst Shifter For Sale
> Re: White smoke (and tranny clicking noise)
> Re: Alternator or Battery
> Fw: EGR Drill
> Re: License plate choice
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:36:22 -0400
> From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
> Subject: Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3
>
> Lou, does not overlap occur at TDC, when neither lobe is up?  This would
> yield closed valves.  Peter (More than once wrong, willing to stand
> corrected) .
> ___________
>
> Sorry Peter, but Lou is correct.  Overlap is the term applied to the period
> when both valves are open; the intake valve starts to open as the exhaust
> is closing.  This does occur aroundTDC, but on the exhaust stroke, not the
> compression stroke.
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 70 W-30
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:36:50 -0400
> From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
> Subject: Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines
>
> Along this same thread - what constitutes the differences between these 400
> castings (66-67) and the 68 big block casting?
>
> Lisa Madsen
> __________
>
> Lisa, which 68 big block?  The 68 G-block 400 had an even smaller bore than
> the early 400 (3.870 vs 4.000) and used the 4.25 stroke 455 crank to make
> up the difference.
>
> As an interesting side note to this whole thread, if you drop the late
> 400/455 crank (4.25 stroke) into the early E-block 400 block (4.000 bore),
> you get a 427 Olds.  If you go 0.060 over, you get a 440 (unfortunately,
> you need a custom set of 4.066 pistons to get it to 442 cu in).
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 70 W-30
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:37:20 -0400
> From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
> Subject: Re: 400 'E' block/ 425block
>
> Since they couldn't put the 425
> into the 442, wouldn't the cheapest and easiest (read GM Corp) way be to
> just
> lightly modify an existing block? Take a 425 block and leave a little extra
> meat in the cylinder liner?
> __________
>
> Well, 0.125" on the bore would be a lot of extra material to leave in the
> rough casting.  When you consider the extra material costs (small) and the
> extra machining time (relatively large, including extra wear and tear on
> the machine tools), I'd be willing to bet that it was cheaper to have two
> block castings than to machine every 425 block the extra 0.125".  The
> design work, which was quite small, only needed to be done once, so this
> non-recurring cost was amortized over hundreds of thousands of motors.  The
> extra machining costs would be incurred on every 425.
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 70 W-30
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:39:41 -0400
> From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
> Subject: Re: Fw: 67 Cutlass Steering Parts
>
> Rare parts is the only place I can find it and they want about $150 for
> one.
> Fusick I think has one for $175.  PST actually make it and they sell it for
> $175 also.  Should this cost this much?
> _________
>
> This center link is unfortunately very difficult to come by.  I thought it
> was out of production and the only units available were remanufactured
> items.
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 70 W-30
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 7 Jun 1998 20:24:16 -0400
> From: "george a montowski" <GMONTOWSKI@prodigy.net>
> Subject: 75 0lds 88  convertable parts
>
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
> - ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BD9252.3E9EA5C0
> Content-Type: text/plain;
>         charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> I have a 1975 olds 88 convertable in  very good condition, however I =
> need a few parts for it, like a map light . The paint on my interior =
> door  and rear side panel  chrome decor strips is wearing off. is there =
> a way to repaint them, to give them the depth they used to have ?, My =
> plastic armrest housing for the front seat arm rest is cracked. is there =
> a place to get a new one or have it repaired ? I can also use a new  =
> drivers side turn signal lense . Is there any place that i can get these =
> parts. I have tried Fusiks's, auto parts, with no luck. I also tried =
> local junk yards. Maybee some one can direct me to another source !   =
> thanks.,   Please return E. Mail to GMONTOWSKI@PRODEGY.NET>  thanks.  =
> George M.=20
>
> - ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BD9252.3E9EA5C0
> Content-Type: text/html;
>         charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
> <HTML>
> <HEAD>
>
> <META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
> http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
> <META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
> </HEAD>
> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> <DIV><FONT size=3D2>I have a 1975 olds 88 convertable in&nbsp; very good =
>
> condition, however I need a few parts for it, like a map light . The =
> paint on my=20
> interior door&nbsp; and rear side panel&nbsp; chrome decor strips is =
> wearing=20
> off. is there a way to repaint them, to give them the depth they used to =
> have ?,=20
> My plastic armrest housing for the front seat arm rest is cracked. is =
> there a=20
> place to get a new one or have it repaired ? I can also use a new&nbsp; =
> drivers=20
> side turn signal lense . Is there any place that i can get these parts. =
> I have=20
> tried Fusiks's, auto parts, with no luck. I also tried local junk yards. =
> Maybee=20
> some one can direct me to another source !&nbsp;&nbsp; =
> thanks.,&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
> Please return E. Mail to GMONTOWSKI@PRODEGY.NET&gt;&nbsp; thanks.&nbsp; =
> George=20
> M. </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>
> - ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BD9252.3E9EA5C0--
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:01:30 -0500
> From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
> Subject: Alternator or Battery
>
> Over the weekend my 94 Cav was going  crazy again.  I had my car in park and
> the speedometer was going up and down.  It went from 0 to 100 and back to 0.
> And this is with the car in park.  The emergency break idiot light was on
> along with the ABS idiot light too. I shut the car off and now it want
> start.  Can anyone please tell me what the problem might be?
>
> ======================
> Sam E. Johnson, JR.
> >  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
> >1971 Cutlass S 455
> >Westside! Chitown IL
> 21 Wins 13 Losses 1Tie
> ======================
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 16:08:00 -0400
> From: "Francomm" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
> Subject: G-Body Coil Springs
>
> Hello all.
>
> Has anyone changed their coil springs over to after market units. All
> related suspension bushings will be converted to polygraphite front and
> rear. With stock coils + gas shocks, I now have 5.5" clearance from level
> ground to the bottom of my front ram-air dam. I believe the stock suspension
> has like 4.5" of travel. Way to much for my setup. Most aftermarket coils
> reduce standing height from 1 - 1.5". would look cool except for when the
> air dam touches down and disintegrates. I need stiff progressive coils
> springs that I'll be able to effectively reduce the suspension travel to
> around 2.5" I'm already equipped with Mon*y SS sway bars with graphite
> bushings.
>
> Anyone have suggestions/leads/experience in the G-Body suspension and
> quality spring manufactures?
>
> - ----Regards,
>
> Gary J. Couse
>
> Couse Customs
>
> gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>
>
>
> "Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 13:13:25 PDT
> From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Alternator or Battery
>
> > Over the weekend my 94 Cav was going  crazy again.  I had my car in
> > park and the speedometer was going up and down.  It went from 0 to
> > 100 and back to 0.
> > And this is with the car in park.  The emergency break idiot light
> > was  on along with the ABS idiot light too. I shut the car off and
> > now it want start.
>
> Maybe a plug wire is shorting into a wiring harness. Seems to me it
> would take a pretty big kick to knock the speedo needle up to 100 mph.
> But mainly I'd definitely check the various ground wire connections,
> both under the dash and under the hood. Sounds like the power for one
> circuit (or more) is doubling back through a bunch of others.
>
> Any major repairs been done recently that might have disturbed any
> pieces of wiring harness?
>
> - -- Andy
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 16:15:26 -0400
> From: "Jim & Joanne Chermack" <chermac@exis.net>
> Subject: FS: New Parts
>
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
> - ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BDE57B.0B443740
> Content-Type: text/plain;
>         charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> Hey All,
>
>     We're back from Charlotte and have lots of new items for sale. It =
> was great seeing some of you there.=20
>
> 53 (N.O.S.) 88/98 Hood Emblem (in box)  $125.00=20
> 57 (N.O.S.) 88/98 Taillight Lens (1 only)  $35.00
> 57 (Repro) 88/98 Taillight Lens (2)  $40.00 pr
> 60 (N.O.S.) 88/98 RH Taillight assm. w/chrome  $145.00
> 66 (N.O.S.) Cutlass LH Taillight Lens (2)  $25.00 ea
> 67 (N.O.S.) Vista Cruiser RH Taillight Lens  $40.00
> 68 (N.O.S.) Cutlass/442 Turn Signal Lens (front, 2 prs)  $35.00 pr
> 69 (N.O.S.) Cutlass/442 Turn Signal Lens (front)  $85.00 pr=20
> 72 (N.O.S.) Cutlass Supreme, H/O LH grille $50.00
> 73-75 (N.O.S.) Cutlass "S", 442,  H/O RH Qtr Panel  $350.00
> 75-77 (N.O.S.) Cutlass Supreme Header Panel  $150.00
> 76-77 (N.O.S.) 442 Cutlass "S" Header Panel  $225.00
> 64-65 Conv Rear Side Panels (mixed colors good cond)  $35.00 pr
> 64-65 330/400 Valve Covers (nice)  $55.00 pr
> 64-65 Cutlass/442 Conv Rear Side Glass (mint)  $150.00 pr
> 64-69 4 Spd Console Top Plate (2 pieces, no boot, nice)  $125.00
> 65 400 442 4-Jet Carb (rebuilt)  $175.00
> 65 442 Grille (nice used)  $135.00
> 65 442 RH Fender (no rust, small ding)  $275.00
> 66-67 SSI Wheels (nice not perfect, 4)  $200.00
> 66-67 RH "W" Exhaust Manifold (mint)  $125.00
> 67 442 W-30 "C" Heads (VG code, drilled and plugged)  $400.00 pr
> 67 442 Hurst Shifter for console  $65.00
> 67 442 W-30 UHV system (complete w/ N.O.S coil and experimental =
> distributor)  $550.00
> 68-72 400/455 Notched Valve Covers (2 prs)  $65.00 pr
> 68 Cutlass/442 Front Bumper (nice w 2 small dings)  $125.00
> 68 442 Rear Bumper (very nice) $250.00
> 69 Cutlass, H/O, 442 Dash Woodgrain (mint orig)  $30.00=20
> 69 Cutlass/442 Conv trunk lid (mint)  $150.00
> 70-72 Floor Console (regular auto, black, no cracks, no ball)  $125.00
> 70 442/SX Cutout Rear Bumper (nice rechrome, not perfect)  $275.00
> 70 W-30 Intake (Early w/ Oldsmobile W-455) date code 11/13/69  $575.00
> 70-73 SSII Wheels (4, off 72 H/O with orig paint.) $175.00 set
> 70-75 Sport Steering Wheel (mint wheel lots of grain, black, with hub =
> and center)  $225.00
> 83-84 Hurst Olds Lightning Rod shifter assm (no cable, nice)  $280.00
> 307-403 Edelbrock Performer Intake (nice)  $120.00
>
> Jim Chermack
> C&M Classic Parts
> Virginia Beach, VA
> (757)474-0869
>
> - ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BDE57B.0B443740
> Content-Type: text/html;
>         charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
> <HTML>
> <HEAD>
>
> <META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
> http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
> <META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3509.100"' name=3DGENERATOR>
> </HEAD>
> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Hey All,</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; We're back from Charlotte =
> and have=20
> lots of new items for sale. It was great seeing some of you there. =
> </FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>53 (N.O.S.) 88/98 Hood Emblem (in box)&nbsp; =
> $125.00=20
> </FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>57 (N.O.S.) 88/98 Taillight Lens (1 =
> only)&nbsp;=20
> $35.00</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>57 (Repro) 88/98 Taillight Lens =
> (2)&nbsp; $40.00=20
> pr</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>60 (N.O.S.) 88/98 RH Taillight assm. =
> w/chrome&nbsp;=20
> $145.00</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>66 (N.O.S.) Cutlass LH Taillight Lens =
> (2)&nbsp;=20
> $25.00 ea</DIV>
> <DIV>67 (N.O.S.) Vista Cruiser RH Taillight Lens&nbsp; $40.00</DIV>
> <DIV>68 (N.O.S.) Cutlass/442 Turn Signal Lens (front, 2 prs)&nbsp; =
> $35.00=20
> pr</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>69 (N.O.S.) Cutlass/442 Turn Signal Lens =
> (front)&nbsp;=20
> $85.00 pr </FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>72 (N.O.S.) Cutlass Supreme, H/O LH grille=20
> $50.00</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>73-75 (N.O.S.) Cutlass &quot;S&quot;, =
> 442,&nbsp; H/O RH=20
> Qtr Panel&nbsp; $350.00</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>75-77 (N.O.S.) Cutlass Supreme Header =
> Panel&nbsp;=20
> $150.00</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>76-77 (N.O.S.) 442 Cutlass &quot;S&quot; =
> He</FONT><FONT=20
> color=3D#000000>ader Panel&nbsp; $225.00</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>64-65 Conv Rear Side Panels (mixed =
> colors good=20
> cond)&nbsp; $35.00 pr</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>64-65 330/400 Valve Covers =
> (nice)&nbsp; $55.00=20
> pr</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>64-65 Cutlass/442 Conv Rear Side Glass =
> (mint)&nbsp;=20
> $150.00 pr</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV>64-69 4 Spd Console Top Plate (2 pieces, no boot, nice)&nbsp; =
> $125.00</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>65 400 442 4-Jet Carb (rebuilt)&nbsp;=20
> $175.00</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>65 442 Grille (nice used)&nbsp; =
> $135.00</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>65 442 RH Fender (no rust, small =
> ding)&nbsp;=20
> $275.00</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>66-67 SSI Wheels (nice not perfect, 4)&nbsp;=20
> $200.00</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>66-67 RH &quot;W&quot; Exhaust =
> Manifold=20
> (mint)&nbsp; $125.00</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>67 442 W-30 &quot;C&quot; Heads (VG code, =
> drilled and=20
> plugged)&nbsp; $400.00 pr</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>67 442 Hurst Shifter for console&nbsp; =
>
> $65.00</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>67 442 W-30 UHV system (complete w/ =
> N.O.S coil=20
> and experimental distributor)&nbsp; $550.00</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>68-72 400/455 Notched Valve Covers (2 =
> prs)&nbsp; $65.00=20
> pr</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV>68 Cutlass/442 Front Bumper (nice w 2 small dings)&nbsp; =
> $125.00</DIV>
> <DIV>68 442 Rear Bumper (very nice) $250.00</DIV>
> <DIV>69 Cutlass, H/O, 442 Dash Woodgrain (mint orig)&nbsp; $30.00 </DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>69 Cutlass/442 Conv trunk lid (mint)&nbsp;=20
> $150.00</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>70-72 Floor Console (regular auto, =
> black, no=20
> cracks, no ball)&nbsp; $125.00</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>70 442/SX Cutout Rear Bumper (nice rechrome, =
> not=20
> perfect)&nbsp; $275.00</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>70 W-30 Intake (Early w/ Oldsmobile W-455) =
> date code=20
> 11/13/69&nbsp; $575.00</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>70-73 SSII Wheels (4, off 72 H/O with =
> orig=20
> paint.) $175.00 set</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>70-75 Sport Steering Wheel (mint wheel lots =
> of grain,=20
> black, with hub and center)&nbsp; $225.00</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>83-84 Hurst Olds Lightning Rod shifter assm =
> (no cable,=20
> nice)&nbsp; $280.00</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>307-403 Edelbrock Performer Intake =
> (nice)&nbsp;=20
> $120.00</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Jim Chermack</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>C&amp;M Classic Parts</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>Virginia Beach, VA</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>(757)474-0869</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>
> - ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BDE57B.0B443740--
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:16:04 -0500 (CDT)
> From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
> Subject: Re: Fw: 67 Cutlass Steering Parts
>
> I don't know if this will help but you should defenitely try all (I
> mean ALL) discount parts places you have around.
> For the 68 you can still get the whole front suspenision parts real cheap
> at AutoZone. Maybe 68 is the deadline for discount stores but don't pay that
> much when there is a chance to get it at the discount store. It is just
> some phonecalls you got to invest, no big deal...
>
> George
> - --------------------------------------------------------------
> '68 Cuttlass S Conv.
> http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
> - --------------------------------------------------------------
>
> > This last week I have tried to find parts for my front-end.  I wanted =
> > outer and inner tie-rods on both sides, a pitman arm, and a center =
> > (drag) link.
> > I found the inner and outer tie rods at A-line (moog) they where about =
> > $40 for the outer(each) and $23 for the inner (each).  the pitman arm =
> > was about $35.  They (A-line) could not get the factory 13/16" =
> > center-link.
> > Rare parts is the only place I can find it and they want about $150 for =
> > one.
> > Fusick I think has one for $175.  PST actually make it and they sell it =
> > for $175 also.  Should this cost this much? $150 for tie-rods and pitman =
> > arm,$150 for center-link.  $300 for the front end and that doesn't even =
> > include bushings or ball joints.  Sounds a little pricey for me.   BTW =
> > the center link for a 78-8? center link is only $45. or less.
> >
> > >Brett Wilson   =20
> > 67 Cutlass Convertible
> > www.froadin.com/images/brett/images
> > My site will be up soon>>>>>>oldsracing.com!
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:23:32 -0500
> From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
> Subject: Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines
>
> Agree with Joe,
> Would be afraid to go past .060 on that block.
> Lou Biggs
>
>
> > Some folks say that it's easy to take the 400 'E' block out to 425 by
> > boring
> > as this is exactly what the factory did to make a 425. Same block and
> > crank,
> > bigger pistons.
> > __________
> >
> > Well, the early 400 and the 425 definitely use different block castings
> (B
> > (65) or E (66-7) and D, respectively), so I doubt this is true.  It _may_
> > be possible to take the early 400 out to 4.125", but you'd need to get
> the
> > cylinder walls ultrasonic tested.  I've actually contemplated doing this
> so
> > I can build an E block 455 for my 66 convert.  I'd love for it to remain
> a
> > numbers-matching car.
> > Joe Padavano
> > padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 16:26:33 EDT
> From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
> Subject: Re: Fw: 67 Cutlass Steering Parts  center link
>
> I have a center link off my 67,442 that Im parting out,  e-mail or call  908
> 276 5277
>
> Bernie
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:31:36 -0500
> From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
> Subject: Fw: Insurance via net...
>
> > Subject: Re: Insurance via net...
> > Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 3:28 PM
> >
> > Charley,
> > Got one for an antique car via Internet. All kinds of limitations. Saved
> it
> > to diskette somewhere. If I find it all forward. Supposedly they insure
> > other then antiques also.
> > Lou
> >
> > ----------
> > > From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
> > > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > > Subject: Insurance via net...
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 16:41:28 +0100
> From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
> Subject: Re: Hurst Shifter For Sale
>
> Nathyn M. Knipe wrote:
> >
> > I have a Hurst Quater Stick for a TH350 transmission, and i would imagine
> > it would fit a TH400 also....i have everything for it including an
> > aluminum cover for it too....make offer....Nathyn  email me personnaly at
> > nmknipe@syr.edu
>
> How old is it/how long was it used/where are you located/what condition?
>
> - --
> *************
> Matt Cremean
> mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
> 1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
> 1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
> 1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
> 1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
> +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
> **************************************************
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:36:25 -0500
> From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
> Subject: Re: 455 block needed
>
> Good block to work on, well seasoned, no joke intended. Need much machine
> work but...
> Lou Biggs
>
> - ----------
> > From: rkn <rkn@ezaccess.net>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: 455 block needed
> > Date: Sunday, September 20, 1998 1:23 AM
> >
> > I have a 425 block out of a 66 Dynamic 88. Also 2bbl intake and carb.
> > heads, pistons w/rods and caps. No crank, no cam, no main caps. Block is
> > rusted evenly, all over. If anyone wants this stuff, just come and get
> it.
> > I'll never use it and I gotta get it out of here sooner or later. My
> > Dynamic had a 455 in it that someone put in before I got the car so I
> built
> > that motor instead. Not going for stock obviously. If your interested I'm
> > in North eastern PA. e-mail me directly at:
> > rkn@ezaccess.net.             R. Kevin Noon
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 15:53:20 -0500
> From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
> Subject: TDC
>
> Peter,
> TDC occurs twice on four cycle engine, once on valve overlap, once in
> firing position. Firing, both valves closed, in overlap, here comes the
> disclaimer, with any reasonable camshaft both valves will be slightly open.
>
> Lou Biggs
> lbiggs@intertek.net
> 67 442 all orig.
> 75 CS same way
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 17:58:08 -0300 (ADT)
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: UNBOUNCE: ISO '75 Delta Convert parts
>
> Not on the list; respond to GMONTOWSKI@prodigy.net if you can assist...
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
> - ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From:   "george a montowski" <GMONTOWSKI@prodigy.net>
> Subject: 75 0lds 88  convertable parts
>
> I have a 1975 olds 88 convertable in  very good condition, however I =
> need a few parts for it, like a map light . The paint on my interior =
> door  and rear side panel  chrome decor strips is wearing off. is there =
> a way to repaint them, to give them the depth they used to have ?, My =
> plastic armrest housing for the front seat arm rest is cracked. is there =
> a place to get a new one or have it repaired ? I can also use a new  =
> drivers side turn signal lense . Is there any place that i can get these =
> parts. I have tried Fusiks's, auto parts, with no luck. I also tried =
> local junk yards. Maybee some one can direct me to another source !   =
> thanks.,   Please return E. Mail to GMONTOWSKI@PRODEGY.NET>  thanks.  =
> George M.=20
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 17:59:23 -0300 (ADT)
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: UNBOUNCE: G-Body Coil Springs
>
> - ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From:   "Francomm" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
> Subject: G-Body Coil Springs
>
> Hello all.
>
> Has anyone changed their coil springs over to after market units. All
> related suspension bushings will be converted to polygraphite front and
> rear. With stock coils + gas shocks, I now have 5.5" clearance from level
> ground to the bottom of my front ram-air dam. I believe the stock suspension
> has like 4.5" of travel. Way to much for my setup. Most aftermarket coils
> reduce standing height from 1 - 1.5". would look cool except for when the
> air dam touches down and disintegrates. I need stiff progressive coils
> springs that I'll be able to effectively reduce the suspension travel to
> around 2.5" I'm already equipped with Mon*y SS sway bars with graphite
> bushings.
>
> Anyone have suggestions/leads/experience in the G-Body suspension and
> quality spring manufactures?
>
> - ----Regards,
>
> Gary J. Couse
>
> Couse Customs
>
> gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>
>
>
> "Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:00:53 -0300 (ADT)
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Re: Fw: 67 Cutlass Steering Parts
>
> I got one a few years back for my '64 (I think they are the same part) and
> it was in the price range you quoted. But at the time they were still
> available new as a Moog part, I believe...
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 16:57:53 EDT
> From: SpeedCom@aol.com
> Subject: Removing G-body from chassis
>
> I am planning a first rod project that will require a g-body chassis. As part
> of my "scoping exercise" I am trying to understand the job required to
> separate a body from its chassis.
>
> I can pretty well see disconnecting the wiring, controls, and steering shaft,
> but I don't know what else attaches. For instance, can the engine (and rest 
of
> the drive line) be left in while the body is lifted off? Where is the body
> attached? How many bolts? I'm hoping to visualize this task before actually
> tackling it.
>
> If there is a book or a website that details the operation, I would be 
pleased
> to know it.
>
> Cheers/Carron
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 05:08:15 -0400
> From: Andy Mikesell <andymikesell@mediaone.net>
> Subject: Fair price for engine?
>
> List -
> I saw this ad in the paper this weekend and was considering it for a
> swap the tired stock 2bb 455 in my 71 Delta 88 convertible
>
> "72 OLDS 455 W30 ENG w/'73 intake. 385hp, 400+ ft lbs torque. $650/bo.
> $650/bo."
>
>  Is this a fair price?
> - - Andy
> 71 Delta 88 convertible
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 17:23:36 -0400
> From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
> Subject: Re: Removing G-body from chassis
>
> I can pretty well see disconnecting the wiring, controls, and steering
> shaft,
> but I don't know what else attaches. For instance, can the engine (and rest
> of
> the drive line) be left in while the body is lifted off? Where is the body
> attached? How many bolts? I'm hoping to visualize this task before actually
> tackling it.
> _________
>
> Yes, the driveline can be left in the frame while the body is removed (it
> goes in before the body on the assembly line).  First thing will be to
> remove the bumpers and the  front end sheet metal.  Hood, fenders, core
> support with radiator.  Next, disconnect and remove the steering column.
> Vent the A/C system (properly recycling the Freon) and disconnect the
> lines.  Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core.  Disconnect the
> brake lines from the master cylinder, ensuring that there are no clips
> attaching the lines to the firewall.  There should not be any wires going
> to the frame - they should all be contained in the body.  Disconnect the
> fuel lines from the gas tank and drop the tank.  Note that there may be an
> evaporative canister under the car, attached to the floor pan - be sure to
> disconnect the hoses going to it.  Disconnect the shift linkage and
> accelerator cable.
>
> At this point there are 12-14 bolts holding the body onto the frame.  These
> are accessed through openings in the bottom of the frame and thread into
> caged nuts in the body.  These nuts are blind and usually rust to the
> bolts, so you'll want to use an impact wrench.  The body can now be lifted
> free.  Note that you may want to pull out the seats, doors, and anything
> else you can to make it lighter.
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 70 W-30
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 17:27:29 EDT
> From: JCRASH7@aol.com
> Subject: My Delta's pissing me off again!!!!!!!
>
> Hey gang,
>      Pulled the Delta out again today, and now the transmission was making a
> severe "clicking" noise!  This time it didn't sound like the engine, it was
> definitely the tranny.  Also, white smoke was coming out of the exhaust pipe,
> and when I checked the oil, it was about a quarter of an inch lower today 
than
> yesterday, but still full.
>
>      Is my car finally dying?  Is it going to Olds heaven?  I hope not 
because
> I gave the Caddy back to my dad, and if my Olds' engine and tranny are going,
> I'm screwed because I have NO FREAKING IDEA how to do an engine/tranny swap,
> AND I wouldn't have enough money to find another decent car!
>
> TIA,
> - -------------------------
> Joe Sherbanenko
> jcrash7@aol.com
> http://members.tripod.com/~jcrash7
> - -------------------------
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 17:33:31 EDT
> From: KS7RACING@aol.com
> Subject: Another Fine Mess I Got My Self Into.......
>
> Ladies and Gents of the Olds List,
>
> Somehow, my damned credit card that I have always paid my AOL fees with
> hiccupped and didn't accept the AOL charges, which in turn cut us to inactive
> status Sunday, which must have also dropped us from the list.  I'm not sure 
if
> my messages got posted or not regarding the camshaft and the intake for sale.
> If you had a response to either of them, please re-send them and I'll answer
> you as quickly as possible.  And if they didn't show up, I'll re-post them
> later this evening.
>
> Sorry about that.  Take Care!
> Ken Snyder
> Kansas City, Kansas
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 14:40:07 +0000
> From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
> Subject: Re: Fw: 67 Cutlass Steering Parts
>
> I ended up paying $190 (including shipping) for a '66 13/16"
> center link from year one. tierod ends shoud be abot $20 each.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 14:52:26 -0700
> From: "mike aldana" <maldana@inreach.com>
> Subject: Scripts-letter reproduction
>
> Hi to all members of the list...As the hot weather winds down in my part of
> the country, i will be taking on more concentrated, time consuming work. I
> have been casting scripts and letters for all makes of vehicles for many
> years now. I am now offering this same service at a discounted price for all
> the members of this list. Broken scripts, can be reproduced in bronze/brass
> alloy  and plated to look almost if not as good as the originals. The prices
> normally range from $100.00 to $125.00 ea. I can offer the casting/plating
> for $75.00 per side. I would need one side,(cracked,broken ok) to work from.
> No damage occurs on the original one. Turnaround time would run 4-6 weeks,
> since this is very time consuming, and meticulous hand work. All work is
> guaranteed to please, as always.   For more info email to
> maldana@inreach.com     sincerely   Mike
>
> Mike Aldana
> 417 Encinas Ave.
> Calexico Ca.92231          760-357-0713
>
>               Restoration Services
> Chromeplating, pot metal repair
> Polishing Stainless trim,aluminum,brass
> Foundrywork,Casting ornaments,plaques,,cast iron, brass etc.
> All work at hobby prices.       satisfaction always
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 17:58:44 EDT
> From: TimLeary97@aol.com
> Subject: Oil Light Problem
>
> The oil pressure light switch on my 64 Cutlass was leaking so I replaced it.
> The leak is fixed, but now the oil light won't go out.  the light was not lit
> with the old unit.  Did I miss something when I replaced the switch, is there
> some type of a reset procedure?  The engine is a 330, and I bought the new
> switch at NAPA.  I'm pretty sure the oil pressure is good.  The engine was
> rebuilt 15,000 miles ago, and the valve train is quiet.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:03:07 EDT
> From: KS7RACING@aol.com
> Subject: Re-Post:  Camshaft I.D.
>
> Fellow Olds fanatics (like me),
>
> I just made a killer deal on a 350 ready to reassemble with a ton of new
> parts.  I plan on keeping everything but the intake (next post).  Right now, 
I
> need to know any information about the new camshaft that others on the list
> might have had experience with.  It's in a Speed-Pro/Sealed Power box, and 
the
> number on the box is CS-176R.  176R is also on the end of the camshaft, so 
I'm
> sure it's in the right box.  I'd be interested to know any lift and duration
> numbers anyone out there might know.
>
> Thanks for the help, and Take Care!
>
> Ken Snyder
> Kansas City, Kansas
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:21:35 +0000
> From: ejhufnagel@juno.com (Edward J. Hufnagel)
> Subject: Re: 455 block needed
>
>  I'm in North eastern PA. e-mail me directly at:
>  rkn@ezaccess.net.              R. Kevin Noon
>
>      Where abouts in N.E. Penn.?
>
> E.J.
>
> _____________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:13:30 EDT
> From: KS7RACING@aol.com
> Subject: Re-Post: Holley SB Intake For Sale
>
> I'm gonna try this again -- bear with me if you saw this already.
>
> FOR SALE:  One Holley Street Dominator intake for Small-Block Oldsmobiles.
> This is the only true single-plane intake currently available for the small-
> blocks, and this one's never been bolted on!  It has slight oxidation from
> sitting around, but it's not modified in any way.  I got it as part of a 350
> that some kid was planning on building for a car he owned, but never got to
> put together -- the car was totalled before the engine got done.  I have one
> of these already that we ran on the stock car back in 1992 (that intake has
> been modified) and since we can't run them anymore, I don't need another one.
> Price is $125.00, shipping included or trade for an unmodified Edelbrock
> Performer 350 Olds in similar condition (this is the only intake we can run 
at
> Lakeside now).  E-mail me privately at KS7RACING@aol.com for more info if
> interested.
>
> Thanks, and Take Care!
>
> Ken Snyder
> Kansas City, Kansas
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:23:17 -0400
> From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
> Subject: '72 H/O stripe placement
>
> Ok, ladies and gentlemen:
>
> I'm seeking help on the stripe placement for the 72 H/O.  Or guidance to
> the information anyway.  EXACTLY where is the stripe placement on a 72
> H/O convertible??
>
> I don't mean an answer like, "on the sides and trunk and hood" which
> some of the more cynical people like myself would say.  :)   I mean how
> far from the edge of the top of the fenders, how far back from the front
> of the fender, etc.  Dimensions.  Measurements.  A guy I know is looking
> for this information in the restoration of his baby, and I told him I
> didn't know, but I can ask this list, since THEY'D probably know.  So,
> if anyone who has an ORIGINAL-striped 72, or knows of exact stripe
> placement for one of these beasts, can help me out, I'd sure appreciate
> it immensely.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Mike Rothe
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:34:33 -0400
> From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
> Subject: [none]
>
> unsubscribe oldsmobile
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:38:23 -0400
> From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
> Subject: [none]
>
> subscribe oldsmobile
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:46:45 EDT
> From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
> Subject: Re: Re-Post: Holley SB Intake For Sale
>
> << This is the only true single-plane intake currently available for the
> small-
>  blocks, and this one's never been bolted on!  >>
>
> the last i heard this intake was discontinued by holley.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:54:25 -0400
> From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
> Subject: Test Message
>
> New e-mail package I'm using here...
>
> Please let me know if I'm accidentally enclosing any attachments, if the
formatting's all screwed up, etc. > > Thanks. > > Jason Adcock > Blacksburg, 
VA >
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu > Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 17:55:00 -0500 > 
From:
"Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net> > Subject: Fw: '72 H/O stripe placement > > >
To all, > > Speaking of stripes, the ones of the 75 Cut. are in great shape,
EXCEPT > the > > across the top in front of the Landau vinyl. It's only bad in
one tiny > spot > > about, 1&1/2" where it's starting to disappear, too much
polishing. Must > be > > real paint. It's maroon, burgundy, or cranberry. Had
three different body > > shops tell me that. paint code is # 11, thats white, 
no
stripe mentioned. > I > > have a striping brush, nice, cost about 30 bucks. 
With
my manual > dexterity > > I might as well try "Irises" by Van Gogh. Any help 
out
there. I believe > Van > > Dutch died. Can't use him. > > Lou Biggs > >
lbiggs@intertek.net > > 67 442 all orig. > > 75 CS same way > > > > ---------- 
>
> > From: Mike Rothe. <hurstolds@xtalwind.net> > > > To:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca > > > Subject: '72 H/O stripe placement > > > Date:
Monday, September 21, 1998 5:23 PM > > > > ------------------------------ > >
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:57:18 -0400 > From: "Peter Berusch"
<pber710840@email.msn.com> > Subject: Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3 > 
>
Peter, much chagrined and turning red, stands corrected.  Again.  Sigh. > -
-----Original Message----- > From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
<Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca> > Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 3:47 PM >
Subject: Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3 > > >Lou, does not overlap 
occur
at TDC, when neither lobe is up?  This would > >yield closed valves.  Peter
(More than once wrong, willing to stand > >corrected) . > >___________ > > >
>Sorry Peter, but Lou is correct.  Overlap is the term applied to the period >
>when both valves are open; the intake valve starts to open as the exhaust > 
>is
closing.  This does occur aroundTDC, but on the exhaust stroke, not the >
>compression stroke. > > > >Joe Padavano > >padavano.joe@orbital.com > > > >66
442 > >68 W-30 > >69 H/O > >70 W-30 > > > > > > ------------------------------ 
> >
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 19:05:05 -0400 > From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray 
Costanzo) >
Subject: g-body > > Do any other g-body owners have problems with their power
widows rising > very slowly? > > And, does anyone know how to solve the classic
g-body problem of the > window going a bit off track and not sealing when you
out it up while > driving.  I know about opening the other window and 
equalizing
pressure > and all, but is there anything that can be tightened or realligned 
to >
alleviate this? > > Ray Costanzo                                        87 409
Cutlass >                         Bucks County, PA > >
_____________________________________________________________________ > You
don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. > Get completely
free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com > Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO
[654-5866] > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998
17:36:28 -0400 > From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo) > Subject: Re: Hurst
Shifter For Sale > > Hey!  Didn't you read the lecture about saying where you
are when you're > selling stuff! > > Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass >                         Bucks County, PA > On Mon, 21 Sep 1998
13:56:34 -0400 (EDT) "Nathyn M. Knipe" > <nmknipe@mailbox.syr.edu> writes: > >I
have a Hurst Quater Stick for a TH350 transmission, and i would > >imagine > 
>it
would fit a TH400 also....i have everything for it including an > >aluminum
cover for it too....make offer....Nathyn  email me personnaly > >at >
>nmknipe@syr.edu > > > > > >
_____________________________________________________________________ > You
don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. > Get completely
free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com > Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO
[654-5866] > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998
18:07:19 -0500 > From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net> > Subject: Re: Thread
was(close) upshifts 2 and 3 > > Peter, > Not to worry, believe you meant what
you didn't exactly say. Just don't > mention THE WORD! > Regards, > Lou >
lbiggs@intertek.net > 67 442 all orig. > 75 CS same way > - ---------- > > 
From:
Peter Berusch <pber710840@email.msn.com> > > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca > >
Subject: Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3 > > Date: Monday, September 21,
1998 5:57 PM > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998
19:12:54 -0400 > From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu> > Subject: [none] > >
subscribe oldsmobile > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep
1998 19:18:30 -0400 > From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu> > Subject: Test
Message > > Sorry to the folks (Greg...) who may have seen all my idiot moves
this > evening.  Got a new e-mail package and was trying to s*bscribe myself
using > the oldsmobile address instead of the majordummy address...I think I'm 
>
straightened out now... > > BTW, please let me know if I'm doing anything dumb
like attaching a copy of > this message or something like that. > > Thanks 
list! > >
Jason Adcock > Blacksburg, VA > E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu > Web:
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock > > ------------------------------ > > Date:
Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:21:23 -0500 > From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net> >
Subject: White smoke > > Forgot who started the thread,  Need more info, pure
white smoke "water", > cracked block or head. But unlikely, bluish white smoke,
"oil", cracked or > busted ring, or piston, normally, but an exception to every
rule. > especially with these darn cars. tranny, ask the General' .Never got
past > TFs and 4 speeds. > Good Luck. > > Lou Biggs > lbiggs@intertek.net > 67
442 all orig. > 75 CS same way > > ------------------------------ > > Date: 
Mon,
21 Sep 1998 16:34:21 PDT > From: "keith hernandez" <kdrguru@hotmail.com> >
Subject: q4 > > keith here after a long summer.  how is the old mo club?  are
you guys > still looking for door handles for your vista cruisers?  if you
notice > in that 70s show, there is indeed a vista cruiser.  hey greg, why 
dont >
you sign me up to your club again.  its been real guys.  the quads > running an
inhaler now.  i got an 80 shot of nitrous to all four.  got > the scx up to 
11.5
qm's.  yea it really got the cama*o guys fiddling > later in the day under the
hood.  It was done buy one of the guys, and a > close friend, that worked for
fueling enginnering.  the boys who > designed the aerotech.  any questions to
you people ready to run.  hey > brent how ya doing these days. > > ed > 92 scx 
>
92 stealth > > ______________________________________________________ > Get 
Your
Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com > > 
------------------------------ > >
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 06:34:33 -0500 > From: "Peter Landowski"
<PETTRIX@prodigy.net> > Subject: Re: Fair price for engine? > > If the guy is
selling a ready to drop in motor, I think it is TOO GOOD TO > BE TRUE. I would
not trust someone who is claiming that their motor is > making 385hp and 400+ 
ft
lbs of torque. First of all, Olds motors would > produce about 500+ lbs of
torque if they made 385hp. The horsepower vs. > torque rating that guy is 
giving
is incorrect. That is more like a Chevy > motor output, than a long stroke Olds
motor. > > Second a 72 Olds 455 W30 motor did not make that much hp as he 
claims
it > makes. Throw on a 73 (READ: SMOG INTAKE) intake and your choking that >
motor. 385hp is motor is more like a 70 rating. > BRAND NEW out of Detroit, not
sitting in some guys garage. > > Third if this motor makes 385hp and he selling
it for $650/ OBO. Then he > must have gotten a AWESOME deal on his
parts/machining. I paid about > $5000.00 in having my motor completely rebuilt
(including the heads which > were ported). My motor made DYNOPROVEN 440hp 540 
ft
lbs of power. THe cost > was $5000.00 not $650.00 > > I will tell you what that
motor probably is good for. Take it apart and > rebuild it. IF you plan on just
dropping it in the car. You will be > dissapointed. Not only that it will not
make that much power as he claims, > but it may not even run at all. I would
give him $500.00 and make him sign > a statement saying that if the block is
cracked he will refund your $$$. > Take it apart and rebuild it. >
Pettrix@prodigy.net > > - ---------- > > From: Andy Mikesell
<andymikesell@mediaone.net> > > To: Oldsmobile List 
<oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca> >
> Subject: Fair price for engine? > > Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 4:08 AM 
>
> > > List - > > I saw this ad in the paper this weekend and was considering it
for a > > swap the tired stock 2bb 455 in my 71 Delta 88 convertible > > > > 
"72
OLDS 455 W30 ENG w/'73 intake. 385hp, 400+ ft lbs torque. $650/bo. > > 
$650/bo." >
> > >  Is this a fair price? > > - Andy > > 71 Delta 88 convertible > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 19:46:04 EDT > From:
SpeedCom@aol.com > Subject: Re: Removing G-body from chassis > > In a message
dated 9/21/98 >  4:<BR30:<BR53 PM Central Daylight Tim, 
Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
writes: > > > At this point there are 12-14 bolts holding the body onto the
frame.  These > >  are accessed through openings in the bottom of the frame and
thread into > >  caged nuts in the body.  These nuts are blind and usually rust
to the > >  bolts, so you'll want to use an impact wrench.  The body can now be
lifted > >  free.  Note that you may want to pull out the seats, doors, and
anything > >  else you can to make it lighter. > > Joe, > > Thanks for the
rundown. It is a bit different than I had imagined, but now I > can see the
sequence prteey well. I have a very strong outbuilding and I had > planned to
jack the assy up, attach the body to the joists via multiple come- > alongs, do
the disconnect in the air, and then lower the chassis away from the > body. I
can see now that I will have to put it in front end first in order to > clear
the engine (moving the body out backwards). > > I appreciate the warning about
removing interior and other excess weight. > > Cheers/Don > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 19:54:06 EDT > From:
CPEARLPARK@aol.com > Subject: Re: High Rev's and W's > > Mike, Thanks for the
info. I may have to look into those other rear ends as I > do a lot of highway.
I can't really get anywhere from here without the > turnpike or an 
interstate...
"Been travelling quite a ways recently to the > shows (I definitely have the
bug). The Hemmings show in Bennington was just > OK.  Way too many Beanie 
Babies
at the swap. What's the attraction?  This > weekend in Ipswich, MA is what I'm
told is the creme de la creme of > collector/exotics shows. > > One more about
the W's. I know I don't have a W-30 and the car is very low on > options, but I
do have the scooped hood.  The thing is... it's steel, not > glass. I can't 
find
any references to anything other than glass.  So where did > this hood come
from?  The previous owner claimed he spent $1400 incl. shipping > to get it
(used). What car did it come from?? > > ------------------------------ > > 
Date:
Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:05:03 EDT > From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com > Subject: Back to
original -- engine compartment > > Does anyone have (or know where to find) a
photo of the way a 71 455 should > look in a 4-4-2?  I'd like to get back to
original.  Currently have a chrome > open air cleaner ("Made in Taiwan" sticker
on the bottom -YIKES), chrome valve > covers, yellow plug wires, etc.  I have a
W-25 STEEL hood that I don't really > want to lose, but would like the right 
air
cleaner system.  Also looking for a > sport steering wheel (Brothers "no" , 
Year
One "no") and period front seat > belts (GM or Fisher logo, which?). Took 92
year old Grandma for a ride with > the top down on Sunday and she was looking
for anything she could find to get > a grip on -- what a riot! > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:09:17 EDT > From:
CPEARLPARK@aol.com > Subject: Nearly constant squeal > > Experiencing this in 
my
71 4-4-2. 'Pretty sure it's wheel noise, but goes a > way for a while after
applying the brakes. Also seems to change as I turn the > wheel, even slightly.
Wheel bearings??  Car is new to me and I'm a rookie > mechanic. > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:07:40 -0400 > 
From:
"Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com> > Subject: Re: Thread was(close)
upshifts 2 and 3 > > Aarrrgh!  THE WORD!  Not THE WORD!  What the hell is THE
WORD  that I'm not > supposed to say?  In the words of my clinal compatriots,
"I'se ignant". > Peter. > - -----Original Message----- > From: Lou Biggs
<lbiggs@intertek.net> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca> > Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 7:11 PM >
Subject: Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3 > > >Peter, > >Not to worry,
believe you meant what you didn't exactly say. Just don't > >mention THE WORD! 
>
>Regards, > >Lou > >lbiggs@intertek.net > >67 442 all orig. > >75 CS same way >
>---------- > >> From: Peter Berusch <pber710840@email.msn.com> > >> To:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca > >> Subject: Re: Thread was(close) upshifts 2 and 3 
>
>> Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 5:57 PM > > > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 19:19:06 -0500 > 
From:
Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com> > Subject: Re: 1985 442 > > Frank Montero 
wrote: > >
My name is Frank. I recently purchased a 1985 442, white > w/gray bottom. > >
<snip> > >         I would like to know in this condition if you would be able
to > give me a book value for the car. I already got one but a >         second
opinion is always good. > >         Frank, book value for a limited run '85-'87
442 is a joke.  When > I purchased my '87 in July of '93, my regular loan
officer at the credit > union was on vacation.  (Figures...)  Anyway, the 
person
who was filling > in tried to give me the runaround and tell me the "book 
value"
was only > $3,700, or some such ridiculously low figure.  I gave up trying to >
explain it to her, took my truck title to my banker for collateral, got > the
check, and went to get my (then) 28,200 original mile '87.  Paid > under
$10,000. Try to find one nowadays for less than that.  Book value? > We don't
need no STEENKING book value!  (Sorry, guys, but I get a little > worked up 
when
I hear "book value" quotes on ANY Olds, not just the G > body 442's.)  The
question is, what's it worth to YOU?  Or a collector? > >         Just my 2
pennies, > >         Doug Newman         OCA # 30311 >         Columbus, MS
1987 442 > >         http://www.442.com/newman.html >
http://www.442.com/newmantape.html > > ------------------------------ > > Date:
Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:24:23 -0400 > From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com> >
Subject: Re: Alternator and Voltage Regulator > > Been running the JCW solid
state thing for about 10 years- works great.  You > can't tell it from OEM
(except that it's too shiny). > > Alternator has numbers stamped into it, but
you have to pull it off to see > 'em- or have one of those dentist mirrors and
look underneath.  I have the > chassis manual for my '71 Cutlass, and it says
they only used 37, 55, and 63 > amp units, depending upon accessories fitted.
Mine has A/C and no defogger > = 55A.  With both = 65A.  With neither = 37A.
After the 7 digit part > number, you will see a rating, 2 numbers with A after
them. > > I have a spare 37A unit, if you need one. > > Note that the regulator
can handle alternators up to 80 A, I think, or more. > Your wiring harness is a
different story.  If you go with a higher output > rating, tread lightly. > -
-----Original Message----- > From: Thomas P. Smith <> > To:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <> > Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 3:08 PM >
Subject: Alternator and Voltage Regulator > > >Afternoon, Rocket Drivers: > > >
>    Got a few quick questions.  The alternator code for my car ('71 > >Cutlass
S 350) is "DN."  Anybody know the amperage rating for that? > >Next, I don't
know if the alternator is original. > >Where would I look and what would the
numbers be to make that > >determination? > > > >    Has anyone tried, or have
knowledge about the quality of the > >solid-state external voltage regulator
replacements that J.C Whitney > >sells?  When time comes to replace that, the
solid-state sounds like a > >neat way to go. > > > >    Thanks for the input, >
> > >    Thomas P. Smith > >    1971 Cutlass S 350 > > > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:32:19 -0400 > 
From:
"Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com> > Subject: Re: Fair price for engine? > > In a
word- yes. > - -----Original Message----- > From: Andy Mikesell
<andymikesell@mediaone.net> > To: Oldsmobile List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca> >
Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 5:03 PM > Subject: Fair price for engine? > >
>List - > >I saw this ad in the paper this weekend and was considering it for 
a >
>swap the tired stock 2bb 455 in my 71 Delta 88 convertible > > > >"72 OLDS 455
W30 ENG w/'73 intake. 385hp, 400+ ft lbs torque. $650/bo. > >$650/bo." > > > >
Is this a fair price? > >- Andy > >71 Delta 88 convertible > > > > > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:28:38 EDT > From:
DKlauber@aol.com > Subject: License plate choice > > Getting the car registered
tomorrow.  Deciding on Classic Plates or > Personalized? > If personalized the
choices that I thought of are: > W30OLDS, W30 442, WTHIRTY, 1970W30, OLDSW30,
442 W30,  70 W30,or  just W30. > Car is a 1970 442 W-30 conv.  What do you
think?  David OCA #30416 > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21
Sep 1998 20:35:45 -0400 > From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu> > Subject: RE:
1985 442 > > On Monday, September 21, 1998 8:19 PM, Doug Newman
[SMTP:newmand@wcbi.com] > wrote: > > > > We don't need no STEENKING book value!
(Sorry, guys, but I get a little > > worked up when I hear "book value" quotes
on ANY Olds, not just the G > > body 442's.)  The question is, what's it worth
to YOU?  Or a collector? > > You got it, Doug!  Bluebook value says just about
nothing about the "real" > value of a particular car.  I'm sure that most of 
our
Oldses are worth MUCH > more to us than a simple book states! > > Jason Adcock 
>
Blacksburg, VA > E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu > Web: 
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:37:49 -0400 (EDT) 
>
From: "Nathyn M. Knipe" <nmknipe@mailbox.syr.edu> > Subject: Re: Hurst Shifter
For Sale > > sorry guys.....selling the shifter out of Williamsport PA....... 
> >
On Mon, 21 Sep 1998, Ray Costanzo wrote: > > > Hey!  Didn't you read the 
lecture
about saying where you are when you're > > selling stuff! > > > > Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass > >                         Bucks County, PA > > On Mon, 21 Sep
1998 13:56:34 -0400 (EDT) "Nathyn M. Knipe" > > <nmknipe@mailbox.syr.edu>
writes: > > >I have a Hurst Quater Stick for a TH350 transmission, and i would 
>
> >imagine > > >it would fit a TH400 also....i have everything for it including
an > > >aluminum cover for it too....make offer....Nathyn  email me personnaly 
>
> >at > > >nmknipe@syr.edu > > > > > > > > > >
_____________________________________________________________________ > > You
don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. > > Get
completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com > > Or call Juno at
(800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon,
21 Sep 1998 20:45:05 EDT > From: JCRASH7@aol.com > Subject: Re: White smoke 
(and
tranny clicking noise) > > > Need more info, pure white smoke "water", > >
cracked block or head. But unlikely, bluish white smoke, "oil", cracked or > >
busted ring, or piston, normally, but an exception to every rule. > > Cracked
block?!  I hope not!  The smoke originated today when trying another >
"burnout", this time with a friend watching holding a camera.  This time, I >
couldn't get the car to do it, and I asked my friend if he saw anything, he >
said there is smoke coming from your exhaust.  I put the car in park and had a 
>
look for myself.  Pure white smoke coming out in puffs. > > Also, before I even
moved the car, I put the car in "drive", and noticed a > clicking sound.  The
sound was there in any gear, but went away at higher > RPM's. > > Delta's 
really
actin' funny lately... > > - ------------------------- > Joe Sherbanenko >
jcrash7@aol.com > http://members.tripod.com/~jcrash7 > -
------------------------- > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21
Sep 1998 20:00:45 -0700 > From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com> >
Subject: Re: Alternator or Battery > > - -----Original Message----- > From:
Johnson, Sam <SAJOHNSON@usds.com> > To: 'Oldsmobile' 
<oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca> >
Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 1:04 PM > Subject: Alternator or Battery > >
>Over the weekend my 94 Cav was going  crazy again.  I had my car in park > 
and >
>the speedometer was going up and down.  It went from 0 to 100 and back to > 
0. >
>And this is with the car in park.  The emergency break idiot light was on >
>along with the ABS idiot light too. I shut the car off and now it want >
>start.  Can anyone please tell me what the problem might be? > I'm having the
same problem with a 97 Grand Am company car. The tach will > bury at 8k and the
speedo will vary all over the map. The temp gauge and gas > gauge are also
invilved in the "schizoid dance". >
============================================== > Mick Gillespie > 69 Cutlass
Conv. > 80 Toronado Brougham > mgillespie@sprynet.com >
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm >
============================================== > List Removal & Guidelines >
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm > > ------------------------------ > 
>
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 21:01:53 -0400 > From: "Dave Cullen"
<david.cullen@snet.net> > Subject: Fw: EGR Drill > > Jay - I'm reposting this 
in
case your e-mail was down when I sent it. > > >Please let me know how it goes.
If I can't fix it via the timing this > >weekend, I might try the manifold 
drill
next. > > > Hope you had better luck than I did Jason. > > Took the Quadraslurp
off my 307 Sat and checked those EGR tubes for > blockage. Expected to find at
least some carbon buildup, but nooOOoo. Clean > as a whistle. 140,000 miles and
they still shine like the top of my head. > <sigh> > > Motor still pings (or
knocks, whatever is the correct term) at low throttle. > Sometimes. > > BTW
don't be intimidated by removing the carb - it's really simple. Just > mark the
vacuum hoses with masking tape so you can put them back where they > came 
from. > >
drc > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 19:59:27 
-0500 >
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net> > Subject: Re: License plate choice > >
David, > It's going to be tough to get what you want, probably easier with
classic > plates. I'm in Illinois, sent in about 50 picks before I got one that
was > acceptable, still don't really like it. will try again this winter. Kept 
>
getting replies" That one is already in use" Hell, can't be that many OLD >
Oldsmobiles in Illinois. Now if the Sec. of State was my brother in law, > who
knows. > Lou Biggs > lbiggs@intertek.net > 67 442 all orig. > 75 CS same way > 
>
- ---------- > > From: DKlauber@aol.com > > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca > >
Subject: License plate choice > > Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 7:28 PM > > 
>
> Getting the car registered tomorrow.  Deciding on Classic Plates or > >
Personalized? > > If personalized the choices that I thought of are: > >
W30OLDS, W30 442, WTHIRTY, 1970W30, OLDSW30,  442 W30,  70 W30,or  just > W30. 
>
> Car is a 1970 442 W-30 conv.  What do you think?  David OCA #30416 > >
------------------------------ > > End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1497 >
*********************************i have a 455 in my jet boat. its a low
compression motor with j heads. it > was re-built this last 4th of july 
weekend.
board +30 over. im running a joe mondello 20-22 cam, preformer > manifold with
gasket matched runners.(the heads were also matched up with the  intake
manafold) a 750 holley > with vacume secondaries, mallory dual point,hooker
headers, high effency oil pump and 10 qt pan with windage > tray. with the
timing set at 36 degrees,i get a lean pop in the carb at wot. i can back down
the timing,the > pop goes away and ill loose rpms. a local mechanic says i need
an hei distributor to solve the problem, > another crusty old salt hot rod
mechanic whos been(and still is) in the engine building business since the > 
50s
says changing the distributor wont do it.he says i need to run an 800 double
pumper because the engines > not getting enough gas. i called mondello and 
spoke
to one of his associates,he said the same thing. what do > you think? also next
summer i would like to run an offy tunnel ram with holley carbs. will this work
on my > engine without changing heads and going to a bigger cam? the boat runs
really hard and fast now,would these > changes screw it up? thanks

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1499
*********************************
