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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1424


oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, August 13 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1424



Re: Speedo gearing
How much should I pay?
Re: Olds model Stuff
Resonators?
Re: 1984 Engine Options & LOTS O' QUESTIONS
vacation
AD: Free 20 Minutes of International Phone Calls to Launch 'Call for Freedom'
Movement Re: HP question Re: Fender Attachment Re: Speedo gearing Re: Olds 
model
Stuff Re: Olds model Stuff Re: Speedo gearing Re: [Toro] Tony Moore's resto
Speedo gearing how heavy is a 78 cutlass 2 door? Re: Distributor Woes Re: 
Speedo
gearing RE: how heavy is a 78 cutlass 2 door? Question: Broken Ball Joint Re:
How much should I pay? Re: HP question Re: How much should I pay? Re: catologs
RE: HP question Re: Question: Broken Ball Joint Christian Fair's Exhaust
Thrashing to get ready... Re: Question: Broken Ball Joint Re: catologs Re:
Thrashing to get ready... RE: catologs Parts and info needed for 70 W-30 Re:
Thrashing to get ready... Re: Thrashing to get ready... Re: Distributor
Indexing, (Was Re: Yet more timing chain help) Re: Rochester Re: timing 
advance:
ported vacuum at WOT? Re: Diesel 350 conversion:  May I pick a brain or two? 
Re:
fender patch panels Re: catologs Re: Parts and info needed for 70 W-30 Re: Your
flamed! Olds Nascar Re: Thrashing to get ready... Re: fender patch panels Re:
fender patch panels Re: Your flamed! Re: Parts and info needed for 70 W-30 RE:
Olds model Stuff Re: Parts and info needed for 70 W-30 Re: timing advance:
ported vacuum at WOT?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 19:47:23 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Speedo gearing

Peter Berusch wrote:

> I just changed my rear axle ratio from 2:53 to 3:08 in my '71 Cutlass.  Now
> the speedo reads high by the difference of about 23%.  Does anybody know
> what color pinion I will need to correct the speedo?  Trans is TH350.
> Thanks in advance.  Peter.

Peter,
You need a Green drive gear (42 teeth).
(Caution: there is also a "light" green gear).
This will correct your speedo if you are using F or G-78X14 tires.  If you have
shorter or taller tires than this, your speedo will not read accurately.  I
would suggest you check your local Yellow Pages for a Speedometer shop and have
them calibrate it.  If you are unable to locate a Speedomer shop in your area,
call the State Police Vehicle Service Dept. and ask them where they have theirs
done at.
Hope this helps,

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 19:56:54 PDT
From: "Justin Brickey" <cutlass260@hotmail.com>
Subject: How much should I pay?

My sister called me tonight and told me there was a 1971 Cutlass that
her husbands cousin has.  It only has 27,000 original miles on it and is
in immaculate condition. He got it from a 94 yr. old woman. So it's been
taken care of I imagine, plus he has full paperwork on the maintenence.
How much should I be willing to pay for this little gem?

Justin Brickey
'79 Cutlass Supreme Brougham

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 23:23:39 EDT
From: <MFATZII@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Olds model Stuff

In a message dated 8/12/98 8:37:42 PM Central Daylight Time,
ab348@chebucto.ns.ca writes:

<< plus they had one which was gold
 with black stripes. >>

Dammit !  I can't find this anywhere..........

Ryan (MFatzII@aol.com)
Lincoln,   Nebraska  (Home of the Cornhuskers, too bad they suck !)

56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project Rocket)
<A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click here</A>
85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
89 Chevy Beretta CL

   888                888
  8      8           8       8
8          8       8           8
  8      8           8       8
    8  8               8   8           LIVES
  8      8           8       8
8          8       8           8
  8     8            8       8
    888                888

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 21:13:37 -0700
From: Chris & Robin Miller <cya442@mindspring.com>
Subject: Resonators?

Chris Fair wrote:

> I'm going to put in new stuff since it's too loud and missing the
> factory
> resonators. From previous exhaust related posts, I gather that the
> best low restriction quiet solution is flowmaster 3 chamber mufflers and
> then route
> the pipes through the resonators.
>
> Will the resonators restrict flow too? Do any of you have suggestions
> for mufflers that will be less restrictive than stock and also quiet?
>
> I want this car to be pretty unobtrusive, except when I stand on it.
>
> Look forward to your thoughts.
>
> TIA,
> cf

Where can I purchase these resonators and where do they go?

- --
Chris Miller
'68 442
Tustin, CA
mailto:cya442@mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 00:19:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 1984 Engine Options & LOTS O' QUESTIONS

>Robert Barry wrote:
>
>> BTW, I don't think the 263ci V-6
>> diesel was ever offered in RWD cars. It was a dedicated diesel design.
>
>According to my sales handbooks and literature, the 4.3 V6 Diesel was
>optional on all Cutlass Supreme, Supreme Brougham and Calais models in
>'82, '83 and '84.  This was in addition to the 5.7 V8 Diesel.  Option
>code for the 4.3 was LT6 and retail price was $500 (opposed to $700 for
>the 5.7).  The 4.3 was not available in  RWD Cutlass Cruiser models.

Really, the 4.3L/263ci _V-6_ was available in the rwd Cutlass? Was the 260ci
V-8 phased out at that point? Has anyone ever seen that diesel v-6 in a
Cutlass? Heck, with its dedicated diesel design, it might have been more
efficient than the 260ci motor.

There's a new modification challenge, I imagine: get a 263ci V-6 diesel
Cutlass Calais, add the FX3 bodywork, low-resistance tires and a lowered
suspension, put in some serious highway gears and an OD 5-speed tranny, and
squeeze out 50mpg! Add in a 20-gallon fuel tank, and you've got a 1000
mile/tank car! Cruise cross country with two fuel stops!

Ok, ok, it's late...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 00:22:39 EDT
From: <COUPEKING@aol.com>
Subject: vacation

unsubscribe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 20:03:03
From: <cuba@cyber-host.net>
Subject: AD: Free 20 Minutes of International Phone Calls to Launch 'Call for
Freedom' Movement

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 22:49:47 -0700
From: "John Young" <realtorjohn@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: HP question

- ----------
> Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
>
> > I've often wondered this myself - prolly something to do with TH400
> > reliability, however they _did_ put the TH400 (in beefed form) behind
the
>
> I was under the impression that the TH400 was the same behind a
W-30versus a
> 442.
>
> > W-30.  It's interesting to note that in 1969 Olds offered 325 HP in the
> > base 442 with AT, 350 HP with MT, 360 HP with the W-30 (AT or MT), and
350
> > HP in the W-32 with AT.  From what I can glean from period data, the 69
> > W-32 appears to be the base MT motor ("C" heads and MT cam specs) in
front
> > of a TH400.  Furthermore, it appears that the W-32 used the W-30's OW
> > trans, not the regular 442's OG trans.  Maybe that's the key.
>
> I guess I would prefer the OW (pronounced ow) to OG (pronounced oh-gee).
:-)
>
Now I'm really confused, I thought there was no 69 W-30 with a TH-400 only
a W-32.
Weren't all w-30's (prior to 70) 4 speeds???? I'm still trying to learn all
I can. Thanks
realtorjohn@sprynet.com
69 W-32


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 02:15:05 EDT
From: <Socalolds@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Fender Attachment

Greg,
There are fasteners an the market called barrel nuts specifically for emblems
which are hard to access,  like ours.  The barrel nuts come in many sizes.
Just buy ones which fit the posts on the back of the emblems.  What you have
to do is drill out the existing fender holes slightly larger than the barrel
nut, put the barrel nut on the emblem post and push in. Once in they pretty
much are permanent and can't be pryed loose.
Good luck
Dennis

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 02:46:17 EDT
From: <KWhite5590@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Speedo gearing

Peter wrote
>Does any one know what color pinion I need to correct the speedo?
I 've a fairly recent issue of HOD ROD,CAR CRAFT,CH VY HIGH PERFORMANCE?with
an article on speedometers and gearing.Will see if I can find it and get you
some info.I need it also ,made a tire/wheel change now mines off by 10mph!
Kevin
KWhite5590@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 00:16:22 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Olds model Stuff

of the ertl models the gold is particularly tough to find the silver seems
pretty widly available the H/O is fairly rare as is the original release
black with white stripes the gold is billed as aztec gold but looks more
like palomino gold oh well there is also the red peachstate model a limited
release version  ...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, August 12, 1998 6:40 PM
Subject: Re: Olds model Stuff


>
>I'm sure this is old news, but I was in the local Toys-R-Us today and
>they had another variation of the Ertl '69 4-4-2 (sure wish they would do
>something other than umpteen different '69s!). These were silver with red
>hood stripes (a sticker on the box announced this as an "exclusive
>die-cast color", whatever that means), plus they had one which was gold
>with black stripes. $29.95 Canadian, seemed not a bad price but since I
>already have the '69 H/O I passed. But now I'm thinking maybe I should
>pick one up. Any ideas whether the gold or silver is particularly hard to
>come by? Since they had about 6 silvers and only one gold I'd be tempted
>to get the gold one even though the silver/red looks better. Thoughts?
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 00:16:58 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Olds model Stuff

check ut the chermaks list...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com <SOMMERVLLE@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, August 12, 1998 6:51 PM
Subject: Re: Olds model Stuff


>I'm looking for a ERTL 69 hurst model and can't find one. If anyone knows
of
>one let me know. Thanks Chris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 05:26:17 EDT
From: <KWhite5590@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Speedo gearing

Also try www.speedometershop.com
KWhite5590@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 06:49:27 -0400
From: Gregg & Mary Ludlam <gmrocket@southport.net>
Subject: Re: [Toro] Tony Moore's resto

Tony,

You should be VERY proud of your work on the '56!  I have no idea how
one would go about restoring a vintange American car in Europe, but it
hasn't seemed to stop you...keep up the good work, and can't wait to see
the finished product!

P.S.  Say hi to Christine for us!!!

- --
Gregg and Mary Ludlam - Long Beach, NC
'67 Toronado Deluxe/'72 Cutlass S
See the Toro at http://www.442.com/ludlam.html
or at http://www.toronado.org/gregg.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 07:20:58 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Speedo gearing

Speaking of Speedo Gearing

I just from a 2.14 to a 4.10

What color pinion should I use for my correction?


Thanks
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
14 Wins 11 Losses
======================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 22:02:42 -0400
From: "Ken" <olds442@en.com>
Subject: how heavy is a 78 cutlass 2 door?

A 78 cutlass 2 door 455/th350 would be much lighter than a 67 cutlass
convertible 455/m-21, wouldn't it?

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 08:23:24 -0400
From: Ray Moriarty <rmoriarty@blairinc.com>
Subject: Re: Distributor Woes

At 11:35 AM 8/12/98 -0400, Bob wrote:
>Congratulations! I wonder whether adopting the slide-hammer technique as
>the standard recommended procedure for distributor removal might save
>people on the list some grief and anguish over broken distributors. Where
>is a safe, non-damaging location to attach a slide-hammer on a distributor?

I don't know how well a good distributor would survive the slide hammer.
Mine was very dead before it ever saw the slide hammer, so it is not a good
indicator. Survivability would have to be confirmed before the procedure
could be universally recommended. Has anyone reused a distributor removed
this way? If so, how long did it last?

The slide hammer had the two arm seal puller attachment on the end. The two
arms were clamped on the narrow part of the distributor top plate (correct
term? The flat piece on the top of the distributor shaft that holds the
weights and rotor). Since the distributor was trashed I didn't pay
attention damage. I'll check it out and report back.

>Once the distributor is out, it's not hard to remove the oil pump
>driveshaft from it. A few good taps on the end of it with a ball-peen
>usually frees it up.

I wasn't too worried about it being stuck in the bottom of the distributor.
I was under the impression the oil pump drive shaft had a pressed on flange
that held it captured between the block and the oil pump, and if it came
out with the distributor that was a bad thing. The unpleasantness being the
difficulty putting the damn thing back in and the small pieces of broken
metal flange in the oil sump.

>I am honored to have a moniker for the worst possible scenario for screwing
>up an engine job named after me... Yup, when you've broken off that bolt in
>the block or dropped something down the intake port, I'm glad you will have
>me in mind when you're spending those extra greasy hours pulling the engine
>to rectify the situation... ;)

It could be worse. I could be thinking about you when I'm working on my
Ford. ;>

Ray

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 08:31:15 EDT
From: <KWhite5590@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Speedo gearing

>2.14 to 4.10 what color pinion should I use for my correction?
check your mail from the list and heres a link to
<A HREF="http://www.speedometershop.com/">The Speedometer Shop. Wholesale and
retail in...</A>
Kwhite5590@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 07:40:10 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: how heavy is a 78 cutlass 2 door?

I believe it weights about 3200 lbs
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
14 Wins 11 Losses
======================


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Ken [SMTP:olds442@en.com]
	Sent:	Wednesday, August 12, 1998 9:03 PM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	how heavy is a 78 cutlass 2 door?

	A 78 cutlass 2 door 455/th350 would be much lighter than a 67
cutlass
	convertible 455/m-21, wouldn't it?

	Ken
	

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 09:48:58 -0400
From: "Thomas Q. Bartee" <tbartee@mitre.org>
Subject: Question: Broken Ball Joint

Hi everyone, another question/issue here.  I am currently driving an '85
Olds Cutlass Salon, w/ 153K miles now.  My last car was an '81 Cutlass
Supreme Brougham 2-dr.  At about 160K miles on the Brougham, I was driving
home at 2AM on a Saturday night and coming around a curve, boom, driver
front wheel collapses into the fender due to...broken ball joint (the upper
one, as I recall).  My questions: are broken ball joints a common problem
with the '80's RWD Cutlasses, or was this just a fluke?  Is there a way to
check the ball joints to tell if they are likely to break?  This is one
problem I don't want to encounter again.

Thanks, Tom.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 06:58:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: How much should I pay?

  Is the guy willing to sell it, or are you just going to give him an
offer and try to convince him to sell?  If he's selling it, ask him
what he's asking for it, and take it from there.  Also, I have to go
back to the 'how much do you want this car?'thing.  Also, since he's
family, you might be able to get a good deal on it.  I also think it
depends on how much he paid for the car.  If he didn't pay much (which
is usually the case if you buy from the elderly), he might not ask too
much more for it.  I think $4000 is not unreasonable for this car, but
you may be able to get it for less.  Depending on how 'immaculate' it
is, you might have to pay a bit more.  As far as I know, '71 is the
least valuable year for the A body Cutlass ('72 is most, followed
closely by '70).  I don't know why this is, but that's the pattern
I've seen in price guides.  Finally, check if it's a regular Cutlass,
or if it's a supreme, 'S', W-?, SX, etc.  That could have a bearing on
the value.   I hope that some of this helps.

stefan
sgadecki@yahoo.com
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe








_________________________________________________________
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Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 09:54:56 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: HP question

Now I'm really confused, I thought there was no 69 W-30 with a TH-400 only
a W-32.
Weren't all w-30's (prior to 70) 4 speeds???? I'm still trying to learn all
I can. Thanks
realtorjohn@sprynet.com
69 W-32
_____________

Nope.  The 1966 W-30s were all 4 spd cars.  I seem to recall that the AT
_was_ made available in 67, and I know for sure that 68-up W-30s had a
TH400 option.  This is the OW trans, which has the different clutch plate
arrangement from the other TH400s.

The 69 W-32 was marketed as a "civilized" version of the W-30 for regular
street use.  All had the TH400, posi, O.A.I., and the regular 442 MT cam
with "C" heads.  I seem to recall that the distributor is the same one used
on the 69 H/O.

You have a W-32?  Cool.  Can you confirm that your TH400 is an OW?

Thanks

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 10:00:45 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: How much should I pay?

In a message dated 98-08-13 07:10:42 EDT, you write:

<< He got it from a 94 yr. old woman. So it's been  taken care of I imagine,
plus he has full paperwork on the maintenence.  How much should I be willing
to pay for this little gem?
 Justin Brickey's '79 Cutlass Supreme Brougham >>

Odds are high that the brother's wife's uncle's best friend...(sorry, I can
never resist those!) paid a ~small~ amount for the vehicle.

I cannot tell you what the "street" value of the car is, I just wish to point
out that this fella (Karl restrains himself) is most likely gonna wind up with
a profit, no matter what the sale price to you is. This gives you a slight
advantage in that he may well settle to you for less than it is "officially"
worth.

And of course;  Good Luck!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 07:07:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: catologs

The only one I can think of off the top of my head is www.yearone.com.
also, if you go to www.442.com, there's a page with a whole bunch of
catalogs,
from resto, to performance parts.  There's phone #'s, addresses, and
web pages(for those who have them).

Hope this helps,
stefan
sgadecki@yahoo.com
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 09:07:52 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: HP question

As a side note and FYI, there was a guy in Springfield that had an
~unrestored~ 69 W-32.  It was black/black.  And get this .... it was for
sale.  He was asking $25K.  If anyone is interested I can get his name,
don't think I have his number though.  If I had $25K burning a hole in
my pocket, I would have bought it.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31  currently under the knife for tranny work
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 07:09:53 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Question: Broken Ball Joint

Thomas Q. Bartee wrote:

> with the '80's RWD Cutlasses, or was this just a fluke?  Is there a way to
> check the ball joints to tell if they are likely to break?  This is one
> problem I don't want to encounter again.

You always have the option to replace them at your discretion.  If it would
make you
feel safer I'd say go ahead and replace them.

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 10:12:20 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Christian Fair's Exhaust

In a message dated 98-08-13 07:09:35 EDT, you write:

<< Chris Fair wrote:
 I'm going to put in new stuff since it's too loud and missing the factory
resonators. From previous exhaust related posts, I gather that the best low
restriction quiet solution is flowmaster 3 chamber mufflers and then route the
pipes through the ...>>

Mayhaps I read different posts than you did?

In your orig. post I keyed on the "quiet solution" part.

But ensuing replies addressed how their flowmasters "sounded" pretty cool.

I will wish to use quiet mufflers that flow reasonably well in my dual exhaust
project (prolly.... in November ?), and so I attended to the missives.

After reading the first few such posts, I deleted outright all similar subject
headings.

I did so because It seemed that C.F. did not particularly want sound from his
mufflers.

For that matter, I do not desire a window-rattler either.

More commotion than motion.......

I am NOT flaming the Flowmaster disciples!
(Irritating Disciples in this locale could result in immediate termination!)
HAH!

Sorry to intrude, Chris, just wanted to ensure that a mistake is not made!

As always, please send all flames to: KarlAunan@aol.com

Thanks!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 10:19:21 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Thrashing to get ready...

Hi, Gang.

You may recall that I mentioned the crazy notion of fixing up my 70 W-30
with the goal of driving it on the Hot Rod Magazine East Coast Power Tour.
ECPT starts Oct 17 in Massachusetts and runs through Oct 25 in St.
Petersburg, FL.  By my calculations, that leaves me with something like 63
days to get this done.  If I fail, I may be forced to drive the wife's
300ZX convertible (Olds tie-in:  we bought the car from the Nissan
dealership next door to Stohlman Olds, where Jim S. has yet another of his
seemingly endless supply of 66 W-30s on display in the showroom).

See the agenda for ECPT at:

http://www.petersenevents.com/touring_events/te_f.html

Our story so far:

The 455 which I had planned to rebuild for this car turned out to be the
short block from hell.  Currently chasing a 70 motor out of a Delta.  I
already have the F heads and intake.

Started to disassemble the car to assess how bad the rust really is.
Bought repro quarters two weeks ago, have NOS fenders.  I knew about the
rust in the pinchweld area (around the windshield and back window), but
that turned out to be worse that I thought.  Plan on getting good with the
MIG (fortunately, this area is covered by the window chrome).

The really bad news was the extend of rust pinholes in the trunk lid and
passenger door.  Door patch panel is already on its way;  the search for a
trunk lid continues.  Of course, the water coming in the pinchweld rust
holes had to go somewhere, and apparently due to the slight slope I park
the car on, has decided to exit the car through new rust holes in the trunk
floor by the left inner wheel well.  Fortunately, this looks like an easy
repair.  Best news was that the floorboards, except for some minor surface
rust, are in excellent shape.

T-minus 63 days (I dunno, maybe 9 weeks sounds better).  I'll keep you
posted.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 10:32:25 EDT
From: <JCRASH7@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Question: Broken Ball Joint

<< My questions: are broken ball joints a common problem
 with the '80's RWD Cutlasses >>

Well, I've heard that broken ball joints are a common problem with all older
cars.

Joe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 10:32:41 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: catologs

I am tempted to ignore this post, but I remember three years back when I could
NOT find an oil pan for a 425...because nobody in the auto parts buisiness
knew how common they were. So Karl has a $200 chrome oil pan (on car).

And so:

<< where on line i can go to get like a parts catolog for just cutlass' in
general or oldsmobile i know they stopped making one that was from the
dealerships the hade every part you could think of but it was like $300 any
but any place besides jcwhitney and summit i already have those TIA
 Rich >>

Rich,
Some of the best places are still mail order.
For some of the Online places I know of, visit:

http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

Then click on the link to my part links page...(something like
..../parts.html).

www.442.com has a listing of addresses with some links.
I am fairly certain that the esteemed Bryce-man updates them.
BTW: Bryceman should have been lauded in a certain recent post.
(Bryceman? Thanks much! For your beer as much as your experience!)

Included on my page should be Brother's (no flames now!), Kanter, USA Parts
Supply (Olds & Caddy), and a site I thought was Fusick's but not sure now.

Other places (Mail order);
Tamraz in Chicago (does Cutlass/442), they advert in HMN
   (Hemming's Motor News)
Joe Mondello has a web page.
     But the catalogue is $5!
There is a GM Restoration Catalogue (new issue in August!)
   Got # written somewhere, also in Ch*tty Craft sometimes.
National Auto Lines provides some reproductions ..(800) 428-4300
There is also Dave Smith Engineering for some stuffs
       Someone here should be able to provide #
And lately I have heard of Performance Automotive Wharehouse.
   But again, Karl not know #.
And for performance stuffs, Jeg's rivals Summit. (800) 345-4545
    (cat cost from first order, but I have been recieving catalogues for years
following one order!)
   Jeg's also factually rivals Summit.
    Although the Summit Dragster habitually beats the Jeg'ster
       (Jegster was Olds powered (prolly DRCE) last outing! At Route 66
Raceway!)

Good luck!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 07:36:26 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Thrashing to get ready...

Padavano.Joe@orbital.com wrote:

> The 455 which I had planned to rebuild for this car turned out to be the
> short block from hell.  Currently chasing a 70 motor out of a Delta.  I
> already have the F heads and intake.

I thought Chevies were short blocks and Oldsmobiles had long blocks.  Iam
confused here.

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 09:40:47 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: catologs

Speaking of catalogs, a few months back I got one of those catalogs that
has a listing of a bunch of places that offer catalogs and while looking
through the Olds section I noticed a place called (I believe) Ohio
Valley Street Parts, and they specialize in Cutlass/4-4-2.  I've never
heard of them.  Has anybody heard of them or know anything about them?

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31  currently under the knife for tranny work
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 10:42:20 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Parts and info needed for 70 W-30

Now that you've read my crazy story about the ECPT, I have a few questions
and requests for parts.

Parts needed for 70 W-30  2 dr Holiday Coupe (HT) :

1)  Headliner windlace - this is the textured plastic moulding that runs
along the sides of the headliner from the A-pillar to the package shelf.
The windlace is about an inch or so wide and has a metal core which snaps
over the edge of the headliner to hold it in place on the sides.  It
usually gets all gooey.  I need at least a right side, preferably both
sides if in good shape.

2)  One (at least) 15 x 7 SSIII rim with bolt-on center.  Any condition,
but please I'm not looking for the optional solid gold version, so please
be gentle with the price.  To those who responded to my request for such a
wheel a couple of months ago, I'm sorry I didn't follow up but a lot of
things (like family vacation and work) got in the way.

Now the questions:

1)  My O.A.I. hood has disbonded from the metal frame in a number of
locations.  The bonding material appears to be a thick, paste type of
adhesive.  Has anyone found out what this is, or if you've rebonded such a
hood, what did you use?  My local auto body supply store sells a 3M SMC
Panel Bonding adhesive that sounds like it might be the stuff.  Any
thoughts?

2)  My wing has cracking at the joints where the legs are attached.  It
appears that the factory used some sort of filler to form the fillet
between the legs and the wing itself.  I was planning to just fiberglass
this, but is there some other correct material I should be using?

3)  Seam sealer - The factory used a type of thick, black, rubbery sealer
in numerous placed on the floor pans, particularly where the rockers are
spot welded to the floor.  It _isn't_ the brushable seam sealer that most
places sell.  What is this stuff and where do you get it?

4)  Four speed adapter - the square plastic adaper (which holds the boot)
on my console is broken.  There's a place which advertises in Hemmings
selling a 4 spd console adapter kit for 70-72 cars.  Anyone have any
experience with them?  Is there any truth to the rumor that Year One is
selling repros of this plastic part (I know they sell the boots)?

Thanks for the help.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 10:46:04 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Thrashing to get ready...

I thought Chevies were short blocks and Oldsmobiles had long blocks.  Iam
confused here.

- --
Chris Sparks
______________

I'm afraid you are confused, Chris.

The term "short block" refers to the block, crank, rods, pistons, and cam.
"Long block" is the short block with heads attached.  You may be thinking
of big block and small block, but it is possible to have a big block short
block or a small block long block...   ;-)

Joe (just trying to add to the confusion) Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 07:54:01 -0700
From: "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Thrashing to get ready...

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:

> Joe (just trying to add to the confusion) Padavano

Thanks for the confusion!

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 10:48:39 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Distributor Indexing, (Was Re: Yet more timing chain help)

><I've heard of a thing called indexing the dist- how does one adjust this?>
>
>>From what I remember, it involves relocating the tab that keeps the
>distributor cap in one place.  What I think it takes to accomplish it is

OK, I'm trying to grasp exactly what is being indexed to what. It's
obviously not the rotor itself, as that is spinning around when the cap
remains stationary. It must be something in the cap in relation to the
distributor body, but again the breaker plate rotates with the movement of
the vacuum advance mechanism, so the only thing fixed in the body of the
distributor in relation to the cap is the mounting of the vacuum advance
unit, and the relation of the vacuum advance unit and the breaker plate is
easier to adjust than the cap itself.

 [snip]
>Is it worth it?  I don't know, but if you always buy your caps from the same
>make and place, they should be accurate to each other.  If you did this and
>did find that the cap wasn't indexed properly, you could either fix the
>distributor or replace it.  We here at the race team are going to be real

If the terminals in the cap are a few degrees off, wouldn't just rotating
the distributor those few degrees put the cap back in the proper
relationship with the rotor? Then you'd have to adjust the dwell, perhaps,
but again, maybe I'm missing something here.

>Maybe someone else has a slant on this.  I'm sure no expert at much of
>anything, and I always look forward to learning as much as I can from the
fine
>folks on this list.

I feel like I'm not catching something here as well. What exactly is the
cap being indexed *to*?
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	              MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 10:51:03 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Rochester

>Message text written by Bob Barry
>>Not necessarily; the last few years Rochester got lazy, and used the same
>carb with an identical number, unadjusted for years. I believe the number
>was 17086553 or something like that. I can check this tonight.<
>
>Actually, the 1985 and older with 5A heads have a 3-point adjustment and a
>different part number than the '85 and newer with 7A heads (2 point
>adjustment).  Even the 307 Y and the 307 9 had a different part number with
>different jets, float setting, adn metering rods

I did look that up, and the spread of years that carb #'s were carried over
wasn't as great as I thought. That 17086009 (?) carb was only used for
'86-'87, and the 17088115 was used for '88-'90. Still, though, the carb #
isn't always a firm clue as to the year of the engine.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	              MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 10:57:45 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: timing advance: ported vacuum at WOT?

>What does ported vacuum do at different engine speeds?  Manifold
>vacuum is highest at idle, lowest at W.O.T.  Ported is nothing at
>idle, high during part throttle.  What about W.O.T.?

Above idle, it is the same as manifold vacuum.

>With the vacuum canister set low (screw four turns out), total at revs
>is 45.  I don't know if that goes away at W.O.T. or not.

Yes, it should, since your manifold vacuum will be so low; again, at WOT,
it wouldn't matter if you were running the advance off a manifold or ported
vacuum port, as they'd both be seeing the same signal. Turning the vacuum
canister screw usually only adjusts the *rate* of vacuum advance, not the
*amount*, which is changed by a small serrated washer that limits the total
travel of the vacuum advance unit. You might find you can let the vacuum
advance come in at a lower point, if you reduce how much advance it adds in
total.
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	              MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 11:01:56 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Diesel 350 conversion:  May I pick a brain or two?

>I hope to begin converting a diesel 350 to gas soon, I was wondering if
>someone could help:
>
>Basically I was wondering if Mondello's engine building book is a
>must-have for this project.  For now I'm hoping to just convert it and

The instructions are actually contained in the catalog.

>drive for awhile.  I don't plan to do any real overhaul work or mods
>exept replacing gaskets and a lumpy cam.  The diesel was running until
>it died of a bad fuel pump, so all should be well as far as the bottom
>end goes.

You need to adjust the spacing in the timing chain area, and add some plugs
somewhere. Mondello has the whole kit with all these little miscellaneous
pieces. Unless you have a machine shop at your disposal, you'd probably be
bucks ahead to get that kit with all the right parts, or else your engine
can become a very heavy and expensive failed experiment.

>I know that 403 heads, a SB carb and intake manifold, a fuel pump and a
>gas engine camshaft need to be installed, but I doubt it's just that
>simple.  What other work has to be done?  Could someone tell me what's

As I said above, you need the little pieces to make up the differences
between the gas and the diesel block. I think the Mondello kit has the
proper roller timing chain and the like. Give him a call, and see what he
recommends. The other parts sound like a great starting point.

>BTW the plan is to drop the engine in my 80 Calais.  It should make the
>little car pretty snappy, even with the lame 2.29 gears.

It should be pretty snappy with that motor. Also give you a top speed of
around 160mph... :)
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	              MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 10:54:20 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: fender patch panels

>I'm getting my 1970 Cutlass 'S' repainted pretty soon.  I've been
>looking for a set of fenders (mine are rusted out in the comon spot),
>but reproductions are not to be found, NOS is way too expensive, and
>any used ones that I could get have had damage in the same area.  I've
>decided to go with patch panels.  Where have any of you gotten patch
>panels, and what were the results?  I think I saw some in Year One for
>about $85 for the pair.  Either that or does anyone have a set of rust
>free fenders that you'd like to get rid of for a reasonable price?

Just be aware that the patch panels don't include any of the inner
structure of the fender (which usually rusts right along with the outer
surface), so that might have to be fabricated for extra $$.

You might try Auto Body Specialties in Middlefield, CT. They carry
rust-free used fenders for around $300. I thought this was too high, until
I found out what NOS fenders were going for... :(
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	              MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 07:47:31 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: catologs

paddock,  year-one, brothers, supercars,

brothers is www.oldsparts.com
paddock is www.the_paddock.com or some such
year one is www.yearone.com I believe
and supercars is all over this list you shouldnt have a tough time getting
that one they do olds only mostly mechanical no sheetmetal
- -----Original Message-----
From: RICH6986@AOL.COM <RICH6986@AOL.COM>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, August 13, 1998 4:12 AM
Subject: catologs


>does anyone know where on line i can go to get like a parts catolog for
just
>cutlass' in general or oldsmobile i know they stopped making one that was
from
>the dealerships the hade every part you could think of but it was like $300
>any but any place besides jcwhitney and summit i already have those TIA
>Rich

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 11:07:42 -0400
From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: Re: Parts and info needed for 70 W-30

> 4)  Four speed adapter - the square plastic adaper (which holds the boot)
> on my console is broken.  There's a place which advertises in Hemmings
> selling a 4 spd console adapter kit for 70-72 cars.  Anyone have any
> experience with them?  Is there any truth to the rumor that Year One is
> selling repros of this plastic part (I know they sell the boots)?
>

	Joe,
		Karl Sarpolis is the person that is reproducing these, his 
phone
number is: (708)614-4906. Have one on my '70, the mounting tabs are much
stronger then the original. He is out of Illinois. Great guy.


       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
          Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 W30 stick ~ Red (of course)

                              <mailto:drdecal442@aol.com>
                              <mailto:mcornea@ford.com>

            Visit <http://members.aol.com/drdecal442/mcr.html>


            OCA# 4903
       	    OPC# 14
       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 11:10:19 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Your flamed!

Ibiggs wrote to Ed

<< Have a 75 cut sup 2dr w/landau. Daily driver. Just repainted ..... Can't
fight it anymore. Still like it, but your right about the weight, 350 engine
w/q-jet and 350 tranny. Takes forever to reach cruising speed, would make an
great boat anchor for
 the Titanic. Still with only 53000 orig. miles  >>

Do I read this right?

A 1975 (relatively low miles) Olds Cutlass Supreme 2dr 350/350 is slow?

I grew up driving my father's Oldsmobile: a 1976 Cutlass "S" 4dr Droop-Snoot
with 350/350.

While in retrospect, it does not compare to my current 425cid daily driver.
After 100K miles I was still beating out cars on the street! To my
recollection ; a man-trans Late-model as of 1986 or so New Yorker (boy did
that guy ever lack a clue!), a resto-in-progress (early 70's) Camaro, and
similar Firebird come to think of it. Only ones to beat me were a Late-model
(1987) Fiero, and similar year Berlinetta (but it came down to inches!!!).

You will forgive me for saying so, but if your 2dr (weighs less than 4dr) 1975
car is slow then perhaps something is wrong?

Or mebbe you have the optional factory 1.78:1 differential.
(sorry, not meant to be at your expense)

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 11:12:55 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Olds Nascar

I'm helping a friend of mine duplicate a '75 Nascar Winston Cup Cutlass. I
know nothing about Nascar earlier than the mid-eighties. Does any one know
who was driving Oldsmobiles on the Cutlass platform in '75? Where can I find
pictures of these cars?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 11:16:06 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Thrashing to get ready...

Aaarrrggghhh! Here we go again!

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Comid <Comid>
Date: Thursday, August 13, 1998 10:40 AM
Subject: Re: Thrashing to get ready...


>
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>Message-ID: <35D2F9EA.8A5A3C2B@catalina-inter.net>
>Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 07:36:26 -0700
>From: "Chris Sparks (aka Mr. Ada)" <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
>Organization: "A" WillowWare
>X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.04 [en] (X11; I; SunOS 5.5.1 sun4u)
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Re: Thrashing to get ready...
>References: <8525665F.004D249A.00@smtphq.orbital.com>
>X-Orcpt: rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h
chebucto.ns.ca oldsmobile-mml"
>Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>Padavano.Joe@orbital.com wrote:
>
>> The 455 which I had planned to rebuild for this car turned out to be the
>> short block from hell.  Currently chasing a 70 motor out of a Delta.  I
>> already have the F heads and intake.
>
>I thought Chevies were short blocks and Oldsmobiles had long blocks.  Iam
>confused here.
>
>--
>Chris Sparks
>68 442 SC - Frosty
>68 442 HT - Scarlet
>68 442 HT - Saffron
>82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
>http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 11:20:26 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: fender patch panels

go fiberglass! $259 :-)
(just trying to get flamed from the originality freaks)

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Comid <Comid>
Date: Thursday, August 13, 1998 11:08 AM
Subject: Re: fender patch panels


>
>Received: from halifax.chebucto.ns.ca [129.173.4.205] by jellico.com with
smtp
> id ALAHBOAN ; Thu, 13 Aug 1998 11:07:30 -0500
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sequent1.providence.edu" ident: "TIMEDOUT") by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca with
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>X-Sender: rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu
>X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 3.0.1 (32)
>Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 10:54:20 -0400
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
>Subject: Re: fender patch panels
>X-Orcpt: rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h
chebucto.ns.ca oldsmobile-mml"
>Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>>I'm getting my 1970 Cutlass 'S' repainted pretty soon.  I've been
>>looking for a set of fenders (mine are rusted out in the comon spot),
>>but reproductions are not to be found, NOS is way too expensive, and
>>any used ones that I could get have had damage in the same area.  I've
>>decided to go with patch panels.  Where have any of you gotten patch
>>panels, and what were the results?  I think I saw some in Year One for
>>about $85 for the pair.  Either that or does anyone have a set of rust
>>free fenders that you'd like to get rid of for a reasonable price?
>
>Just be aware that the patch panels don't include any of the inner
>structure of the fender (which usually rusts right along with the outer
>surface), so that might have to be fabricated for extra $$.
>
>You might try Auto Body Specialties in Middlefield, CT. They carry
>rust-free used fenders for around $300. I thought this was too high, until
>I found out what NOS fenders were going for... :(
>__________________________________________________________
>Bob Barry                MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
>1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
>1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
>1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
>http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 11:18:00 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: fender patch panels

You might try Auto Body Specialties in Middlefield, CT. They carry
rust-free used fenders for around $300. I thought this was too high, until
I found out what NOS fenders were going for... :(
_________________

I want to second this recommendation.  I've purchased a number of panels
from them, and they seem to be about 10% less than Year One on average.  In
addition, they were able to locate panels that they don't normally stock
(the oversize 66-67 one piece floor pans, for example) and shipped them to
me at a reasonable price.  Unfortunately, I don't have their phone number
here at work.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
6 9 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 11:23:40 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Your flamed!

My wife had a '74 Cutlass 350/350 back in the early eighties. Her father had
maintained it meticulously since new. Yes . . . SLOW!

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Comid <Comid>
Date: Thursday, August 13, 1998 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: Your flamed!


>
>Received: from halifax.chebucto.ns.ca [129.173.4.205] by jellico.com with
smtp
> id ALAPCHFE ; Thu, 13 Aug 1998 11:15:40 -0500
>Received: by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca id <35385-23838>; Thu, 13 Aug 1998
12:11:52 -0300
>Received: from imo14.mx.aol.com ([198.81.17.4]:4488 "EHLO imo14.mx.aol.com"
ident: "TIMEDOUT") by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca with ESMTP id <35359-23880>;
Thu, 13 Aug 1998 12:11:01 -0300
>Received: from KarlAune@aol.com
> by imo14.mx.aol.com (IMOv14_b1.1) id WYUIa13455
> for <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; Thu, 13 Aug 1998 11:10:19 -0400 (EDT)
>From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
>Message-ID: <ee1ca029.35d301dc@aol.com>
>Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 11:10:19 EDT
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Re: Your flamed!
>X-Mailer: AOL 3.0 for Windows 95 sub 52
>X-Orcpt: rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h
chebucto.ns.ca oldsmobile-mml"
>Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>Ibiggs wrote to Ed
>
><< Have a 75 cut sup 2dr w/landau. Daily driver. Just repainted ..... Can't
>fight it anymore. Still like it, but your right about the weight, 350
engine
>w/q-jet and 350 tranny. Takes forever to reach cruising speed, would make
an
>great boat anchor for
> the Titanic. Still with only 53000 orig. miles  >>
>
>Do I read this right?
>
>A 1975 (relatively low miles) Olds Cutlass Supreme 2dr 350/350 is slow?
>
>I grew up driving my father's Oldsmobile: a 1976 Cutlass "S" 4dr
Droop-Snoot
>with 350/350.
>
>While in retrospect, it does not compare to my current 425cid daily driver.
>After 100K miles I was still beating out cars on the street! To my
>recollection ; a man-trans Late-model as of 1986 or so New Yorker (boy did
>that guy ever lack a clue!), a resto-in-progress (early 70's) Camaro, and
>similar Firebird come to think of it. Only ones to beat me were a
Late-model
>(1987) Fiero, and similar year Berlinetta (but it came down to inches!!!).
>
>You will forgive me for saying so, but if your 2dr (weighs less than 4dr)
1975
>car is slow then perhaps something is wrong?
>
>Or mebbe you have the optional factory 1.78:1 differential.
>(sorry, not meant to be at your expense)
>
>SOM
>&KA
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 11:21:06 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Parts and info needed for 70 W-30

Joe,
          Karl Sarpolis is the person that is reproducing these, his phone
number is: (708)614-4906. Have one on my '70, the mounting tabs are much
stronger then the original. He is out of Illinois. Great guy.
___________

Mark, thanks for the info.  Turns out I called the number from the ad in
Hemmings and it's The Parts Place.  They have a deal of the adapter, inner
and outer boots, and the chrome bezel for $149, so I took it.  They're also
in IL, so I suspect they are selling Karl's parts (at the appropriate
markup, of course).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 09:38:21 -0600
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: RE: Olds model Stuff

> << plus they had one which was gold
>  with black stripes. >>
>
> Dammit !  I can't find this anywhere..........
>
> Ryan (MFatzII@aol.com)

Oh bother.  I feel it my duty to reveal my favorite toy source to the world.
I've been keeping this a secret for too long now.  It's time I share the
wealth.

Look here:
http://marketplaza.com/cgi-bin/scodb.cgi/s=evers&uid=8666&a=s&p=13962/

If this link doesn't work, let me know.

Blaine

P.S. - I've ordered from these guys several times (this is where I got my
die cast '69 H/O) and have never had a problem.  Enjoy...  Oh, they also
have the '66 Cutlass 1:24 plastic model kit, too, though I don't know if
they have it in stock yet.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 12:35:52 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Parts and info needed for 70 W-30

On Thu, 13 Aug 1998 Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
> 1)  Headliner windlace - this is the textured plastic moulding that runs
> along the sides of the headliner from the A-pillar to the package shelf.

Within the last month or two, somebody (I think it was a person on the
list) offered me one of these, the flexible plastic chrome kind out of a
'68 4-4-2. Maybe it was on 442.com, not sure. Anyway, if I can find the
reference I'll pass it on, or the person here who had it can get back to
you.

> 2)  One (at least) 15 x 7 SSIII rim with bolt-on center.  Any condition,

Saw these advertised on 442.com yesterday (new listing).

> 3)  Seam sealer - The factory used a type of thick, black, rubbery sealer
> in numerous placed on the floor pans, particularly where the rockers are
> spot welded to the floor.  It _isn't_ the brushable seam sealer that most
> places sell.  What is this stuff and where do you get it?

In my hand I have a tube (caulk gun size) of Evercoat 4020 Joint & Seam
Sealer, #4020. Comes in black or white, I seem to recall 3M makes a
similar product. Got it at my local NAPA store.


Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 11:36:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Re: timing advance: ported vacuum at WOT?

On Wed, 12 Aug 1998, Gregory Zimmerman wrote:

> I'm asking this because I'm trying to set my distributor advances.  I
> have the initial at 15, the mechanical is about 15, for a total of
> 30degrees at revs.  I want 36, but it's such a pain to adjust the
> Mallory unit, I'll wait on it.
>
Typically mechanical advance is about 24..you may wish to change bushings
to get more mechanical..OR better yet call Mallory and find out what the
mechanical maximum is.. BTW , Mallory is now owned by Mr. Gasket


Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets


------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1424
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