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cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1482


oldsmobile-digest     Monday, September 14 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1482



RE: switching to manual brakes
parts for sale/ 70 dual gate/sport mirrors
RE: block thread messed up! Suggestions?
Re: block thread messed up! Suggestions?
RE: switching to manual brakes
DelRay (was Re: names)
Re: UNBOUNCE: ISO T-Top Molding
Re: 71 cutlass hood
mid 70's Cutlass Distributor
Re: block thread messed up! Suggestions?
RE: block thread messed up! Suggestions?
RE: switching to manual brakes
Re: block thread messed up! Suggestions?
RE: switching to manual brakes
72 dual gate whats it worth
RE: block thread messed up! Suggestions?
Re: parts for sale/ 70 dualgate/ sport mirrors /  second try!!!!
Re: block thread messed up! Suggestions?
RE: switching to manual brakes
RE: switching to manual brakes
Re: block thread messed up! Suggestions?
Parts 4 sale
Re: block thread messed up! Suggestions?
Vin stamp on tranny
Olds Hearses and Ambulances, was: another choice
Aussie Diesel ID
Re: "Daily Driver"...Early Toro Expert on the list
Kane County, IL show & swap & car prob??
Re: arcing problem and spark plugs readings
Re: "Daily Driver"...Early Toro Expert on the list
Re: "Daily Driver"...Early Toro Expert on the list
Re: 403 motor
Re: Kane County, IL show & swap & car prob??
15 x 7 SS wheels and "Big Cars".
Re: parts needed for 75 olds Cutlass Supreme
Re: parts needed for 75 olds Cutlass Supreme
Re: 403 motor
Kansas Cty Plant (Was Re: Found; Cast Crank Pulley and vin ?)
Re: block thread messed up! Suggestions?
Re: "Daily Driver"...Early Toro Expert on the list
Re: mid 70's Cutlass Distributor
Re: "Daily Driver"...Early Toro Expert on the list
Old broken and rusted parts
head interchangibility
Re: Old broken and rusted parts
Re: parts needed for 75 olds Cutlass Supreme
RE: alternator or Battery
RE: head interchangibility
72 Hurst/Olds Vinyl Top
Re: "Daily Driver"...Early Toro Expert on the list
Re: "Daily Driver"...Early Toro Expert on the list
Re: "Daily Driver"...Early Toro Expert on the list
Re: Old broken and rusted parts
Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 10:06:19 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: RE: switching to manual brakes

But if you are going from manual drum to manual disc would you need the
correct pushrod?

Chris Smetana
____________

So Chris, what you're saying is that you're adding discs to your W-31 which
was only available with manual drums?  ;-)

I've got the same dilemma with my 68 W-30.  Drum brakes in a car with that
much acceleration capability ought to be a crime.  In the originality vs
safety trade, I'll go with the disc brakes.  'Course, now I have to find
the correct 68 four-piston discs...

To answer your question, I'm pretty sure the pushrod will work on either
master cylinder.  I'll double check the part numbers tonight to see if
they're the same.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 10:14:54 EDT
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: parts for sale/ 70 dual gate/sport mirrors

well im trying to finish up my rallye 350 and so i thought i would see if
anyone was interested in some good parts.
70 dual gate
400$              70 sport mirrors
150$              69 cutlass-s grills/headlight housing, (complete set)
100$             71 sport mirrors
100$             68 am radio
?                  69 am radio
?                  68 ft. bumper
100$                       if interested please reply privately,  steven,
w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 09:20:24 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: block thread messed up! Suggestions?

>
>You need a Helicoil.  These are small coils of stainless steel wire with
<snip of good instructions to fix a major D'OH!!>
>point you're done and the threads are likely stronger than new.
>
Only thing I'd like to add and this is from experience.  Make sure when
you drill the hole you go in absolutely perfectly straight.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@onexinc.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 09:20:38 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: block thread messed up! Suggestions?

Joe,

Thanks for you post. Unfortunately a helicoil will not work. The thread is
not only stripped, half of the surrounding metal broke off which means
there is no material left on one side where the thread is supposed to be
and there is no chance to put something in without adding some kind of
material! What should I chose?

Any suggestions?
George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Mon, 14 Sep 1998 Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:

> How can you fix a probem like that?
> ____________
>
> George,
>
> You need a Helicoil.  These are small coils of stainless steel wire with

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 09:26:04 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: switching to manual brakes

>
>So Chris, what you're saying is that you're adding discs to your W-31 which
>was only available with manual drums?  ;-)

Why, yes.  Yes I am.   (I'm coach Krucywouski  I know that's not even
close, but hopefully you get the idea)

>I've got the same dilemma with my 68 W-30.  Drum brakes in a car with that
>much acceleration capability ought to be a crime.  In the originality vs
>safety trade, I'll go with the disc brakes.  'Course, now I have to find
>the correct 68 four-piston discs...
Well, unless you count those few magazine test cars that had discs.  I
like the safety factor myself.  Correct 68 four-piston discs, d'oh, good
luck.
>
>To answer your question, I'm pretty sure the pushrod will work on either
>master cylinder.  I'll double check the part numbers tonight to see if
>they're the same.
I'd guess they would be the same too, but figured I'd ask people in the
know.  Thanks Joe.

Chris Smetana
work: csmetana@onexinc.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 11:28:07 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: DelRay (was Re: names)

On Mon, 14 Sep 1998, David L Wyatt wrote:
> Doh!  I used to have a 55 210 Delray, how could I forget.  It was a vinyl
> interior upgrade(?) in the 210 series in place of the standard cloth.  In my

This is totally non-Olds, something I hate to do. I am forced to admit,
however, that I have a soft spot for this particular car (only the '55).
Right from the name itself (so 50's!) to the look. A few weeks back at our
club's show was a '55 DelRay 2-door post, powder blue and white exterior,
blue and white vinyl interior, 265 V-8, nicely done to stock specs some
time back. Unfortunately it was suffering from recurring rusties in a few
spots and some of the bodywork needed to be redone, which ruled out the
$15K (!) the owner hoped to sell it for. He was nuts, but the car was
cool.

1955 was a good year for GM. The '55 Olds was big that year, the '55 Buick
was even a bigger seller if memory serves. They probably had 60% of the
market in those days.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 10:28:31 -0400
From: "Thomas Q. Bartee" <tbartee@mitre.org>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: ISO T-Top Molding

Only available from GM last time I checked a couple of months ago, not
available from 3rd party vendors.  FYI, I had good luck sealing my T-top
mouldings with indoor/outdoor clear caulk, and by attaching hardware-store
variety weatherstrip to the glass to seal the space between the glass and
the moulding.  No more leaks and far less wind noise.  May be an option if
you're current moulding is not in too bad shape.


At 08:01 AM 9/13/98 -0300, you wrote:
>Not on the list; respond to JDrake5192@aol.com if you can assist.
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>From:	JDrake5192@aol.com
>
>WANTED: 1981-1987 Cutlass Supreme T-Top moulding. JDrake5192@aol.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 11:29:40 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 71 cutlass hood

On Mon, 14 Sep 1998, Johnson, Sam wrote:

> How much does the stock hood on a 71 cutlass weigh anyway?

Plenty. I don't know the exact weight but last weekend I stowed one in the
rafters of my garage. It was definitely a 2-man job trying to jockey it
around. Has to be more than 100 pounds.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 09:25:58 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: mid 70's Cutlass Distributor

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have a mid 70's vacuum advance Buick V6 distributor for my 83 cutlass =
(bye bye computer) and I was wondering what module went with it (how =
many terminals).  I would like to use Accells module, but I don't know =
which one it uses since it does not currently have one.  Didn't they =
change it in 79 and again in 83???TIA!
Brett Wilson
67 Cutlass Convertible
83 Cutlass Supreme Brougham


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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

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<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT size=3D3>I have a mid 70's vacuum =
advance Buick V6=20
distributor for my 83 cutlass (bye bye computer) and I was wondering =
what module=20
went with it (how many terminals).&nbsp; I would like to use Accells =
module, but=20
I don't know which one it uses since it does not currently have =
one.&nbsp;=20
Didn't they change it in 79 and again in 83???TIA!</FONT></FONT><FONT=20
size=3D3></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT size=3D3>Brett =
Wilson</FONT></FONT><FONT=20
size=3D3></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT size=3D3>67 Cutlass =
Convertible</FONT></FONT><FONT=20
size=3D3></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT size=3D3>83 Cutlass Supreme=20
Brougham</FONT></FONT><FONT size=3D3></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BDDFC1.AE993400--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 10:28:40 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: block thread messed up! Suggestions?

The thread is not only stripped, half of the surrounding metal broke off...
_____________

Wow!  Uh, let me put this delicately:  you're screwed! (pun only slightly
intended)

Is it possible to drill and tap the hole deeper and use a longer bolt?
You'll certainly break into the water jacket, but that shouldn't be a
problem if you use some sealer on the threads.  I'm trying to remember if
there's material behind this boss or not.  I'm afraid there may not be. :-(

Joe P

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 09:32:54 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: block thread messed up! Suggestions?

>
>Thanks for you post. Unfortunately a helicoil will not work. The thread is
>not only stripped, half of the surrounding metal broke off which means
>there is no material left on one side where the thread is supposed to be
>and there is no chance to put something in without adding some kind of
>material! What should I chose?
>
>Any suggestions?

So an actual 'chunk' of the block is missing?  If so, then umm.....
another block

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@onexinc.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 10:33:58 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: RE: switching to manual brakes

>So Chris, what you're saying is that you're adding discs to your W-31
which
>was only available with manual drums?  ;-)

Why, yes.  Yes I am.
______________

Boy, and you thought you got flamed _before_ by that guy...just wait until
_this_ bit of non-originality gets on your car...  ;-)

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 09:35:32 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: block thread messed up! Suggestions?

> The thread is not only stripped, half of the surrounding metal broke off...
> _____________
>
> Wow!  Uh, let me put this delicately:  you're screwed! (pun only slightly
> intended)
Sh*t, I know I am, I will never never ever redo a block without trying
every single thread before it goes to the shop... but now it is too late.
Only the people on the list learn about another mistake not to do.

> Is it possible to drill and tap the hole deeper and use a longer bolt?
> You'll certainly break into the water jacket, but that shouldn't be a
> problem if you use some sealer on the threads.  I'm trying to remember if
> there's material behind this boss or not.  I'm afraid there may not be. :-(

I will check on that. There is material there though you will get deep
into the block... I am not really comfortable with the idea but I think
drilling deep and putting on jbweld too will maybe be the way to go. I'll
keep you posted on the material behind it.

What about welding on metal to the block? Anyone has experience with
that?

So long,
George

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 07:42:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: switching to manual brakes

     Regarding the master cylinders for power VS manual disc brakes:
They are the same! The parts stores list the same MC for either
application. I just went through this when I had to put a MC on my 70
W30 4 speed car. You just reuse the pushrod assy from the old MC. I am
curious if the drum brake pushrod is the same........I ~suspect~ it is.
     One more thing: make sure you use the right hole in the brake
pedal arm! There's 2: the one closer to the pivot is for manual brakes
(gives more leverage) and the lower hole is for power brakes.
==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our cars, trucks and a whole lot more at
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 10:48:07 EDT
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: 72 dual gate whats it worth

i have one in my car im thinking of taking out what do they go for? I wouldnt
want to sell the whole console just the dualgate stuff. Plate shifter etc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 09:43:35 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: RE: block thread messed up! Suggestions?

> >Any suggestions?
>
> So an actual 'chunk' of the block is missing?
Yep!

> If so, then umm.....
> another block

I thought about that:
That will cost me 175 for the boring and some more for the plugs and cam
bearings.
Also all the engine is all installed with all new bearings and heads on
and crank pistons etc. I will do everything to avoid taking another block
though I have one sitting in my yard...

What about welding on material? Will the cast iron bond?

George

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 11:01:28 EDT
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: parts for sale/ 70 dualgate/ sport mirrors /  second try!!!!

In a message dated 98-09-14 10:39:45 EDT, you write:

<<
well im trying to finish up my rallye 350 and so i thought i would see if
anyone was interested in some good parts
70 dualgate
400$                                        70 sport mirrors
150$                                        69 cutlass-s grills/headlight
houseings, (complete set)    100$                                        71
sport mirrors                                                           100$
68 am radio                                                                 ?
69 am radio                                                                 ?
68 ft.bumper
100$                                        if interested please reply
privately, steven,  w30442cs@aol.com                                     maybe
this one will come out right!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 11:01:10 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: block thread messed up! Suggestions?

What about welding on metal to the block? Anyone has experience with
that?
__________

Welding cast iron is a specialized process which involves preheating the
area prior to welding.  That likely means that the block has to come out
and be stripped, though you might want to check some of the cast iron
welding specialists that advertise in Hemmings.  Unfortunately, I suspect
that the work and cost involved to do it right will likely equal getting a
new block.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 11:05:19 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: RE: switching to manual brakes

They are the same! The parts stores list the same MC for either
application.
______________

I suspect that this is a case of "close enough" where the aftermarket
vendor is trying to reduce the number of different parts he must warehouse.
I recall that the Olds parts book has different MCs listed for manual and
power, and I also recall a discussion here about a difference in bore
sizes.  A smaller MC bore will reduce pedal effort at the expense of travel
(same thing for a larger wheel cylinder/caliper bore), so I assume the
manual MC has the smaller bore.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 08:20:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: switching to manual brakes

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
I suspect that this is a case of "close enough" where the aftermarket
vendor is trying to reduce the number of different parts he must
warehouse.I recall that the Olds parts book has different MCs listed
for manual and
power, and I also recall a discussion here about a difference in bore
sizes.  A smaller MC bore will reduce pedal effort at the expense of
travel
(same thing for a larger wheel cylinder/caliper bore), so I assume the
manual MC has the smaller bore.

>Joe, I think the MC bore size was different only in 71 and 72 for the
manual disc cars....time to hit the Service and Assembly manuals to be
sure! :)

>BTW the Templeton show was fun, but VERY hot! We roasted but a good
time was had by all.


==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our cars, trucks and a whole lot more at
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 07:58:52 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: block thread messed up! Suggestions?

yes you can just use a cast iron electrode in an arc welder medium heat weld
a little then chip off the slag then do it again until you have a good size
blob for lack of a better word use a die grinder to flatten the machined
surface then drill it tap it and your golden just make sure you drill and
tap in the right spot and straight use the water pump as a guide..kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 14, 1998 7:43 AM
Subject: Re: block thread messed up! Suggestions?


>
>
>> The thread is not only stripped, half of the surrounding metal broke
off...
>> _____________
>>
>> Wow!  Uh, let me put this delicately:  you're screwed! (pun only slightly
>> intended)
>Sh*t, I know I am, I will never never ever redo a block without trying
>every single thread before it goes to the shop... but now it is too late.
>Only the people on the list learn about another mistake not to do.
>
>> Is it possible to drill and tap the hole deeper and use a longer bolt?
>> You'll certainly break into the water jacket, but that shouldn't be a
>> problem if you use some sealer on the threads.  I'm trying to remember if
>> there's material behind this boss or not.  I'm afraid there may not be.
:-(
>
>I will check on that. There is material there though you will get deep
>into the block... I am not really comfortable with the idea but I think
>drilling deep and putting on jbweld too will maybe be the way to go. I'll
>keep you posted on the material behind it.
>
>What about welding on metal to the block? Anyone has experience with
>that?
>
>So long,
>George

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 11:39:54 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Parts 4 sale

PLEASE!
E me direct and
I'll get back to you A.S.A.P

 Robert Schinkel
 docbob@caninet.com

 1966  B cylinder heads  (bare heads) >   $100

 1967  C cylinder heads with small heat riser hole>   $225
          Magnufluxed  -  complete

 1968
 Wiper Switch > $25
 442 grill emblem >   $40
 Nos Side marker light gaskets>   $10 all
 Nos front bumper rubbers (corner by fender)>  $30
 Ashtray Door >  $10
 Convertible top cylinders > $20 ea.
 Rear defroster switch > $25
 Motor mount heat shield > $8
 Conv. Top latches  >30.pr
 Conv. Vent windows with frames good chrome incl. glass  >$40.pr.
 Reverse light lens good condition > $10
 442 Carb  #7028251 >$100
 Intake for 442 398662 with choke> $50
 Choke pulldown only >$20
 Power Antenna Switch  >$25
 Plastic headlight doors > $150

 1969
 Wiper switch  > $25
 Radio plate (uncut)> $20
 Rear defroster Switch & wiring > $25
 Ashtray Doors   > $10
 Convertible top cylinders > $20
 Convertible Trunk Lid rustfree  > $100
 Hood Hinges > $15
 442 Ashtray door with woodgrain Exc.>$20
 Motor mount heat shield  >$8
 Conv. Top latches >$30.pr
 Vacuum trunk switch >$20
 Taillight lens and some housings >$15 ea
 69-72      Nos SSI center caps >  $165
 69-72      Power window motors >  $20 ea.

 1970
 Southern Trunk Lid (Holiday Coupe)  > $175 exc.
 Tail light lens (Cutlass) >  $15 ea
 Tail light lens (Supreme) > $20 ea
 Nos 455 Oil Dipstick tubes  > $20
 Wheel Well Chrome (HC) complete set> $80
 Rear liscense plate brackets  > $10ea.
 Nos pass. side headlight frame>  $50
 Nos fender script "Cutlass"  >  $25 ea
 Nos Horn Contact (sport wheel)  >  $25 ea
 F85 fender script >  $30 pr.
 70 442 bumper  core >  $100
 Ashtray Doors  >  $10
 Body Chrome - 1" spear type across middle of door,fender,and 1/4 > not
complete $40
 Dash Plaques (Plastic around gauges W/ wood grain)   >   $20
 Convertible top cylinder > $20
 Hood Hinges > $15
 Motor mount heat shield> $8
 Conv. Top latches> $30.pr
 455 heads E casting> $100
 Convertible Top Switch  > $60
 1 NOS rear Wheel well Molding>$60
 69-72      Nos SSI center caps>$165
 69-72      Power window motors> $20 ea.

 1971 & 1972
 Front bumper directional lens> $8 ea.
 72 fender mount antenna - complete> $10
 Tail light lens > $12 ea. or $40 for set of 4
 Trunk lid script "O-L-D-S-M-O-B-I-L-E">  $30
 4-4-2 emblems set for 442 Grills >$30
 71-72 Rocker Chrome good/c (6 ft. long  bottom pieces)> $60
 T handle  (that opens hood) > $10
 Ashtray Doors > $10
 71  Cutlass Grills gc. >$90
 Dash Plaques (Wood Grain area around gauges) >$10
 Convertible top cylinders  > $20
 Hood Hinges   >$15
 Rear ¼ panel supreme extensions >$10
 Motor mount heat shield  >$8
 Conv. Top latches  >$30.pr
 69-72      Nos SSI center caps >  $165 set
 69-72      Power window motors > $20 ea.

 1973
 Carb         7043256  >$40

1974 & 75
Southern Fenders > $100ea.
442/Hurst Hood > $150 exc.

 Shipping is extra
 Robert Schinkel
 docbob@caninet.com
 905-357-4454

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 10:46:23 -0500
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: block thread messed up! Suggestions?

George wrote:
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> I am back from a pretty bad weekend on my engine...
>
> I had to find out that the upper right thread in the block where the
> water pump and timing cover bolts on to is totally messed up! It has been
> "redone" with jbweld before and the block metal in the lower part around
> the thread is broken off!
>
> Here is a memory-map for the experts:
> Front view (0= 'self tapping' threads in timing cover, O=block threads,
> X= the bad one...)
>
>                   o      o
>
>               X             O
>
>               0             0
>
>                   o     o
>
> How can you fix a probem like that? Can you deposit metal with welding
> and drill and tap it? jbweld again?? If welding works, what method and
> metal? (Friends have every welder I can think of...)
> Please give me suggestions. I am pretty helpless with this problem and
> desperate to get the engine done soon.
>
> Thanks, George
George,


As long as you're not able to helicoil it, how about going the JB Weld
route, but use a threaded stud.  JB Weld it in the correct position(Bolt
on the water pump to make sure it will clear and line up properly), and
use a nut to tighten it during final assembly.  Wait for it to harded,
mock up the assembly again and install.  Go soft on the nut and don't
skimp on the Permatex.  I had to use JB Weld on a water pump bolt once
before.  Not the ideal way to go, but it worked.  Good Luck.

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 11:16:34 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: Vin stamp on tranny

I was under the W-31 yesterday, I need to replace all the rotted rubber
fuel lines.  But I decided to see if I could find the vin stamped into
the tranny case, but I wasn't able to find it.  The assembly manual
refernces a page that is missing (go figure).  So I got out my Turbo 350
Handbook and it said it should either be on a pad above the pan or on a
pad by the convertor inspection cover.  Well, there is a pad by the
convertor inspection cover but the numbers stamped on it don't match any
sequence vin stamping that I have every seen.  So my questions are a)
where is the vin supposed to be stamped on a 69 turbo 350?  b) if I have
actually found the stamping what does B2T  25123 mean?  Thanks

>
>Chris Smetana
>Terre Haute, IN
>work: csmetana@onexinc.com
>home: chris@abcs.com
>
>1969 W-31
>1969 4-4-2 parts car
>plus others
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 12:33:19 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Olds Hearses and Ambulances, was: another choice

Paul Hartlieb write:

<< A standard Olds 98 window will not fit in this vehicle.  Most Hearses
 and Ambulances were built by Cotner/Bevington on 98 chassis.  These
 vehicles had doors with window frames whereas regular production 98
 sedans were all pillarless hardtops.  Also, these C/B units stand much
 taller than a regular production car.  I doubt that even the windshields
 interchange. >>

Thanks Paul!

I am sure I speak for Dave when I say; could you please flesh that out a
little more and send it to david directly for the FAQ??

That kinda tech stuff tends to only come out on odd occasions like this.

Not unlike the existence of cast pulleys.
Thanks again!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 12:33:20 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Aussie Diesel ID

<< 3AM247187 >>

While it seems unfortunate that those in Australia need to shout to be hear
here, can anyone decipher this?

I would, but I fear that the code used on his motor is far superior to the
meager codes used in 1965.

And of course, please contact mr chris wite directly at bikeshop@bigpond.com.

Thanks

SOM
&KA     <----these are acronyms and are typically all caps!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 12:33:45 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: "Daily Driver"...Early Toro Expert on the list

WEll, I talked my daily driver search about the neighborhood and a local has a
'71 Toro in his garage. Haven't gone to see it yet, but he says it's just a
bit over 100K miles and good interior, one rust spot on exterior. "Around
$2000" is his asking price.

Now, I wasn't thinking really of going that far back, but that is a car that
has always appealed to me. Who is the expert on the list on early Toros who
might give me the important things to look out for when I see this
car...probably not until tomorrow.


Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 12:33:22 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Kane County, IL show & swap & car prob??

So Karl was already awake and furthering the Emperor's interests on the
galaxy's rim when it came time to fire up the Olds and get to Kane County. If
early, then assist Dave. If not so early, scoop others on buys.

And Soylent starts, no prob, but does NOT wanna idle.

This may well be realated to an ongoing problem;

On occasion; using high RPM after warmed up, but during relatively reserved
city driving. After a certain length of the first use of high RPMs, SOM wishes
to die at idle. If enough high RPM afterwards, prob goes away. Today,
particular die at Idle, especially at cold start, after died, much gasoline
was sucked from venturi an seeped out of carb through hole curb-side throttle-
axle.
   Karl started engine, let it die, and watched as fuel was visibly falling
from venturii nozzles.
    Again, in the past this was cleared up through use of WOT in circumstancs
that did not call for it. Today leaving show - use of WOT to pass, led to bad
idle at stoplight stood on brake and influenced accelerator pedal. Prob went
away after brief use of low RPM.

    To me, this suggests a problem with the idle, choke, or choke linkage.
When Karl had the 2GC out 2 years ago, he had little information of the
workings and replaced what the instructions told him to. Not pos. that he got
the choke linkage back in the right hole in the 'cam' when putting back
together. At that time had coil housing open, and might have reconnected coil
wrong.
DOH!!!!

but

   Karl thought about buying two 2-Jet carbs today, but they looked too
bad....
and they were X7045 carbs which confused Karl. Karl was pretty sure 45 was
1975 but.....say 2-Jet atop fuel bowl. Karl forgot about Ch*tty and Mopup
brands when carbing.

On plus side - scored the 1965 technical bulletins for $25. Prolly really
worth $20 or less but original 1965 binder in fair condition was worth at
least $5 so did not argue. Dealer had more GM stuff, but little in the way of
GM interchange,  so Karl not interested. Should have thought to ask about
TH-400.

Karl did score! A set of spring compressors for $25.
After sale complete seller said that manufacturer was the same that made them
for Matco (ya know, the anti-Snap-On people!) and others. The reason that
these guys could sell so cheap was that they buy them from the actual
manufacturer in Georgia.
     So long as coil springs not strike out and bite, Karl not care. If these
guys are also at the Bloomington, IL show next Sat, does anyone want a set for
$28 plus shipping??
     Sorry, implicit cost! Plus Bloomington is gona be a 2 hr drive.

     Karl hadda attend his brothers wedding (definitely non-Olds) so week-end
was shot, as not practical to replace coil springs and shocks one wheel at a
time, one day at a time.
      But, Karl did see summat interesting today that was non-Olds!
It was a 6xdeuce intake.
     Yup, there were six positions for the 2v carbs that were secured to the
intake by three bolts. Whatever those are.

Oh, there was a fellow selling a 1976 98 for just under a grand.
   $995 to be exact.
     Karl not interested as has better things to do with $1000.
However.
    If anyone is interested, I do not have a contact # but MIGHT be able to
find out through IVOC if anyoe took notes. It has the 455 and 4V carb, little
rust that I can remember. It is missing the chrome shroud for the passenger
side taillight....
   Karl is fairly certain that $800 or so will take it.
Just thought more of reasons to say why I dint want than; Hey! My Internet
buddies!
   He was kinda flaky though.....

Moral of this story?
   If it is one, have an OLDSMOBILE (caps warranted here) T-shirt or something
to clue the vendors inas to what to offer you. To wit; my Olds T-shirt
acquired at homecoming that says "OLDSMOBILE" with the rocket symbol in the
midle and looks much like my 1965 hood.
   Why? Because at general shows and swap meets, the vendors might guess at
what to offer you! Such as the technical bulletins that were suggested to me
by the vendor.
  Karl real tired.


SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 12:45:36 EDT
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Re: arcing problem and spark plugs readings

In a message dated 9/11/98 9:56:18 PM EST, david.cullen@snet.net writes:

<< <snip previous stuff>

 >With the cap on, the rotor is the mechanism that allows the spark to go
 >in the right area.  Without the rotor, the spark will jump wherever it can
 >(which happens to be what you are seeing).  From what I can tell of what
 you
 >are saying, you are getting exactly what you should be when the cap is off.
 >
 >Chris Ruper


 I would agree with that except that to jump 2-1/2 inches you'd need
 (theoretically) 100 thousand volts, and I don't know any ingnition that
 powerful. Unless it was really humid (damp air is more conductive) or, as I
 suggested, there were some conductive path in the cap that the spark could
 follow.

 drc >>

Yes, the spark may jump/arc through somewhere one the cap, since it does have
to go somewhere.  But some of my point was that with the rotor on, and the cap
on the dist., it may not follow the same path.  In fact, it most likely will
go through the rotor as designed.  Either way, it is not a real good indicator
of how well the cap/rotor  works.  Your best bet if either is "suspect" is to
just replace them with a good, high quality cap.

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 09:59:39 -0700
From: "Dieter R Schafer" <dieter@3-cities.com>
Subject: Re: "Daily Driver"...Early Toro Expert on the list

I just Bought a 77 Toro! 403cid, No dents in Body 89,000 miles , all of the
elect works
set for 5 years, dry rot on tires bad paint oil leak! I paid $100.oo for it!
been driving everyday for the last 3 weeks! I think I got a deal my self!
 Love the car
Dieter R. Schafer
77 Olds Toronado, Owner
ICQ # 5180073 Or ICQ # 15373222

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 13:09:50 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: "Daily Driver"...Early Toro Expert on the list

In a message dated 9/14/98
 12:<BR04:<BR17 PM Central Daylight Ti, dieter@3-cities.com writes:

> I paid $100.oo for it!
>  been driving everyday for the last 3 weeks! I think I got a deal my self!
>   Love the car

Sounds like, Deiter!!!

I looked more deeply into the FAQ and found a Toro list. I suppose I'd better
subscribe to that too. Looks like I'm becoming another Olds nut.

Cheers

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 11:15:02 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 403 motor

Ray, what kind of traction do you get.  With my 455 (mostly stock, fully
rebuilt with 10.1CR pistons, 272/280 AD .448/.472 lift, stock exaust
manifolds, dual exaust, 3.23 posi and 255 tires I get almost no traction of
the line.  I have a TH400 with shift kit and 12 inch conveter.  I can't use
the converter though, as it is crazy.  Anyways, I need a bigger cam
(probably one like yours) and then maybe it will have a little less bottom
end, but more top end.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/200r4/propane)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (367/727/4.10s)



- -----Original Message-----
From: Ray Costanzo <rocket409@juno.com>
To: dcasteel@gcnet.net <dcasteel@gcnet.net>
Cc: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, September 13, 1998 10:08 PM
Subject: Re: 403 motor


>Hey there Don,
>
>Here's motor specs.
>79 403 block bored .030 over => 409
>403 crank ground down .010
>stock 403 rods
>Arias(?) forged aluminum pistons, 10.5:1
>Crane Cam  .480/.496;  (280-290 adv.? cam card missing!, maybe 292 or was
>it 272, dual pattern though, both with some high 200's duration
>(advertised)
>Crane lifters, pushrods and springs
>72 350 (7a) heads
>Edelbrock 7111 performer RPM intake
>Carter 750cfm AFB
>mallory unilite distibutor w/ accel supercoil
>
>TH350, stock converter, shift kit
>
>3.08 posi  <---I like that
>
>Recently smoked a 96 Vette (since we fortunately didn't reach the point
>where he'd be in 6th gear!)
>
>5.0's are effortless, generally, non-blown ones at least
>
>Most importantly, those damn h*ndas and crap.  I'd rather get smoked by
>an X-11 Citation!
>
>The TH350 puts up with mass amounts of abuse with no complaints.
>I had a TH400 in an 81 Cutlass with a mostly stock 78 350, and I blew out
>second gear.  I think that the trans had been abused and neglected for a
>very long time before I got it, however.
>My transmission guy looked under the car and told me at a glance that the
>trans was from a cadillac, and as far as I know, it was.  How'd he do
>that?!
>See ya
>
>Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
>                                   Hilltown, PA
>
>_____________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 13:09:21 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Kane County, IL show & swap & car prob??

  Karl started engine, let it die, and watched as fuel was visibly falling
from venturii nozzles....
____________

Sounds like the classic sticking float/needle valve, possibly due to crud
getting between the needle and seat.  If you have a lot of crud in the fuel
bowl, this will get caught in the needle and seat, holding it open (and
thus allowing the fuel pump to overgfill the fuel bowl and pump gas right
out the venturies).  If high-RPM makes it go away, this is likely due to
the increased fuel flow flushing the contiminants out of the needle and
seat, only to have new particles lodge there later.  One of the things I've
found in the last few years is that some of the new additives in gasoline
have a corrosive effect on the pot metal of carb castings.  I've had two
Q-jets that I've had to discard because the pot metal inside the float bowl
area had corroded and was flaking off, causing just such a flooding
situation when they became lodged in the needle and seat.  If bad enough,
this flooding condition will also cause gasoline to flow out of other areas
of the carb.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
68 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 10:02:16 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: 15 x 7 SS wheels and "Big Cars".

> As for tires, you might want to search out a set of 15x7 wheels (try a

> junkyard and look for Caprice police cars) and 70 or 65 series tires.
I
> don't think Olds ever offered 15x7s on these (anyone know?) but they
help
> fill out the wheel wells nicely and with the wider tires look great.
Also
> consider a rear sway bar from the same Caprice if you don't have one.
As
> for power, wait for the 307 to expire (could be a while) aand drop in
a
> 403....

I've got a set of 15x7 Olds SS-III wheels.  Freshly stripped and painted
(green), stainless polished, with new (still in the box) trim rings.  I
bought 'em several years ago but sold the car before I could use them
(found my H/O and had to get $$$!).  I'm not sure what they are from
(there was a pile-o-wheels in the junkyard), but I think they have a tad
too much offset to use on a G-body (maybe 1/4-1/2" too much,
measurements show it might hit the frame rails on the back).  They
should fit a larger car, or I suppose you could use some spacers.  If
anyone wants them, they're for sale, make me an offer (Spokane, WA)!

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 13:26:20 -0400
From: squeegy <desn0004@algonquinc.on.ca>
Subject: Re: parts needed for 75 olds Cutlass Supreme

Can any one find me a front bumper or some rear quarter panels for my 75
Olds Cutlass, or any other part you might have.  E-mail me at
desn0004@Algonquinc.on.ca

Greatly appreciated if you can help Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 13:43:47 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: parts needed for 75 olds Cutlass Supreme

squeegy wrote:
>
> Can any one find me a front bumper or some rear quarter panels for my 75
> Olds Cutlass, or any other part you might have.  E-mail me at
> desn0004@Algonquinc.on.ca

I have a 75 Cutlass S that I'm parting out. The front bumper may be in
good shape but I definately think it needs a re-chroming. I'd give it to
ya for decent price. If you're interested, e-mail me. I'll have to
e-mail my dad to see what he says.

thanx
- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 13:38:11 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: 403 motor

In a message dated 98-09-14 13:18:53 EDT, you write:

<<   With my 455 (mostly stock, fully
 rebuilt with 10.1CR pistons, 272/280 AD .448/.472 lift, stock exaust
 manifolds, dual exaust,  >>

Igor, what brand cam are you using? Did you use the stock valvetrain?
(springs, pushrods) How do you like lower end power as opposed to stock, and
how high do you typically rev it?Just curious, going to be doing my 403 SOON.
Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 13:45:26 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Kansas Cty Plant (Was Re: Found; Cast Crank Pulley and vin ?)

Joe wrote:

<X = Kansas City build plant (didn't KC only build B-body cars?)>

Joe,

According to my 70 Chassis Manual, only the 88 series (B-body) were made at
Fairfax (Kansas City).  This is not to be confused with the new Fairfax plant,
originally built for those P-word Gr*nd - *ms, but now also building some
Oldsmobiles, too.

The original Fairfax plant was responsible for building North American B-25
Mitchell bombers during World War II.  There's still one of these flying under
the moniker of "The Fairfax Ghost"

Another interesting side note would be to look for a 1951 Olds made at Fairfax
during the summer or fall of 51 -- it was flooded by the nearby Missouri
River, surely stopping production until early in the 52 year model run.

Just a little history here.  Take Care!

Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 13:47:11 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: block thread messed up! Suggestions?

In a message dated 98-09-14 11:07:46 EDT, you write:

<< Welding cast iron is a specialized process which involves preheating the
 area prior to welding.  That likely means that the block has to come out
 and be stripped, though you might want to check some of the cast iron
 welding specialists that advertise in Hemmings.  Unfortunately, I suspect
 that the work and cost involved to do it right will likely equal getting a
 new block >>

Joe,
About a year ago, a cast iron exhaust manifold from my 56 mecedes broke.
There's a guy in Michigan, call himself K&K manufacturing, who welded it for
me and charged me only $25. Actually, the shipping cost more. You guys in
Michigan may know of him. If you don't I will look him up and pass his Tel #
along to you. As I remember, he welds aircraft engines. Before I found him,
most people told me it couldn't be done.
Let me know.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 10:56:17 -0700
From: "Dieter R Schafer" <dieter@3-cities.com>
Subject: Re: "Daily Driver"...Early Toro Expert on the list

Yes you should!
What name do you go by on the ICQ?
Dieter R. Schafer
77 Olds Toronado, Owner
ICQ # 5180073 Or ICQ # 15373222

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 14:03:10 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: mid 70's Cutlass Distributor

Brett,

I have the B-word 231 in my 80 Starfire GT.  There was a switch in 80 from
odd-fire to even-fire and I'm not sure that the distributors interchange.  If
you get one from an 80 or newer that still has a vacuum advance can (should be
easy to find, they were used almost as much as those C-word 350's) then it
would be a drop-in.

For those models I believe it has a 4-pin connection (2 sets of 2 pins on
either side)

Hope this helps.  Take Care!

Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 14:17:43 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: "Daily Driver"...Early Toro Expert on the list

In a message dated 9/14/98
 1:<BR02:<BR39 PM Central Daylight Tim, dieter@3-cities.com writes:

> Yes you should!
>  What name do you go by on the ICQ?

Sorry, Deiter, I do not know what an ICQ is :-) My name is Don Carron.

I have subscribed to the Toro list and sent my query there as well.

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 13:42:16 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: Old broken and rusted parts

This may seem like a stupid question but, I'm curious what you guys do
with your 'bad' parts once you replace them?  ie lets say your core
support rusted out at the batter tray area and you replaced it with a
good used one, what do you do with the old core support?  I mean it's
not like there're being made anymore and since I'm a pack rat I have a
tendancy to save everything, thinking someday I'll need it for
something.  I know with some fabrication it could probably be saved but
is it really worth it or should I just pitch it, drop it off at the junk
yard or scrap metal place?

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@onexinc.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 13:57:17 -0500
From: Rick Kromeich <rickk@ecg.csg.mot.com>
Subject: head interchangibility

Gang,

Just got a call from someone stating that they have a set of small block
heads from a 74 Hurst that they want to sell.  Had a three angle valve
job and about 8K on them when removed and shelved.  Also mentioned
something about 88cc displacement?   I have a 72 with #7a heads now and
was thinking of replacing them as
I have some valve noise.  I have a choice of #6 heads that sound in nice
shape including hardened valve seats, or the above heads.  If I get some
performance upgrades out of either - great.
My question is - will the 74 heads work and not yield any performance
loss?  I doubt they did anything differently to the Hurst heads over
regular heads?  The faq states they are smogheads - doesn't sound good.
I am not knowledgeable on all of the differences and am not looking for
any killer heads.  Any advice would be appreciated as I need to make a
decision soon.  Which would be the better choice?

- -Rick
72 Cutlass Conv't

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 15:01:49 EDT
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: Re: Old broken and rusted parts

i to am also somewhat of a pack rat alot of the stuff that isnt that bad i
usually keep but if something is really rusted out i usually just bring it to
the junk yard
    just my 2 cents   Rich

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 15:13:46 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: parts needed for 75 olds Cutlass Supreme

I have 1/4's but have no idea on how to get them to you
Where are you

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)


- ----------
> From: squeegy <desn0004@algonquinc.on.ca>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: parts needed for 75 olds Cutlass Supreme
> Date: Monday, September 14, 1998 1:26 PM
>
> Can any one find me a front bumper or some rear quarter panels for my 75
> Olds Cutlass, or any other part you might have.  E-mail me at
> desn0004@Algonquinc.on.ca
>
> Greatly appreciated if you can help Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 15:14:34 -0400
From: "Proietto, Fernando [Ontario]" <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: alternator or Battery

John,
	just hook up an volt meter and see if 14 volts are coming out. Check
it at the battery terminals. If not then the alternator has to be replaced.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Johnson, Sam [SMTP:SAJOHNSON@usds.com]
> Sent:	Monday, September 14, 1998 8:13 AM
> To:	'Oldsmobile'
> Subject:	alternator or Battery
>
> My 94 Che!y Cavalier has a problem and I cant figure out what it is.
> There
> is a humming sound coming from the alternator.  The car want start after
> It
> runs for a while. I tried to test the alternator by disconnecting the
> battery and the car shuts off. Don't know if that is an accurate test for
> these new computer controlled cars though.  The alternator light never
> came
> on either. Can any one tell me a sure fire test to help me determine if
> it's
> the Alternator or the Battery.
>
> Thanks
>
> ======================
> Sam E. Johnson, JR.
> >  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
> >1971 Cutlass S 455
> >Westside! Chitown IL
> 19 Wins 13 Losses
> ======================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 15:19:29 -0400
From: "Fields, Brent (SE_ENG)" <fieldsb@valeo.sylvania.com>
Subject: RE: head interchangibility

Keep those 7A heads!  You will drop your compression by about a point by
going to the 74 heads.
From what I've seen, it appears that in '71 (when they needed to drop all of
the compressions in GM cars - 10.5 to 8.5) that their first method of doing
it was to dish the pistons more.  In '73 they increased the chamber sizes on
the heads and went back to piston comparable to '70 and prior.  In
Mondello's parts book he has a break down of what you will end up with after
certain head and piston combinations.  I have a set of '72 heads and
aftermarket flattop pistons that put out about 10.5:1 compression and drive
it on the street daily.
Brent Fields
www.fieldsb@valeo.sylvania.com <mailto:www.fieldsb@valeo.sylvania.com>


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Rick Kromeich [SMTP:rickk@ecg.csg.mot.com]
	Sent:	Monday, September 14, 1998 1:57 PM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	head interchangibility

	Gang,

	Just got a call from someone stating that they have a set of small
block
	heads from a 74 Hurst that they want to sell.  Had a three angle
valve
	job and about 8K on them when removed and shelved.  Also mentioned
	something about 88cc displacement?   I have a 72 with #7a heads now
and
	was thinking of replacing them as
	I have some valve noise.  I have a choice of #6 heads that sound in
nice
	shape including hardened valve seats, or the above heads.  If I get
some
	performance upgrades out of either - great.
	My question is - will the 74 heads work and not yield any
performance
	loss?  I doubt they did anything differently to the Hurst heads over
	regular heads?  The faq states they are smogheads - doesn't sound
good.
	I am not knowledgeable on all of the differences and am not looking
for
	any killer heads.  Any advice would be appreciated as I need to make
a
	decision soon.  Which would be the better choice?

	-Rick
	72 Cutlass Conv't


	

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 14:11:45 -0500
From: "John Kreitzer" <john.kreitzer@gte.net>
Subject: 72 Hurst/Olds Vinyl Top

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I'm sure this has been discussed before on the list but I've been off =
for a while and don't remember seeing it before. Question 1, does anyone =
out there know how much padding was used under the Vinyl Top on the 72 =
Hurst. Question 2, does anyone know what style and a source for the Trim =
around the vinyl top. Any input on these 2 items would be gratefully =
appreciated as I'm getting close to installing it and would like to make =
sure I do it as close to correct as possible.=20

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#d8d0c8>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I'm sure this has been discussed =
before on the=20
list but I've been off for a while and don't remember seeing it before. =
Question=20
1, does anyone out there know how much padding was used under the Vinyl =
Top on=20
the 72 Hurst. Question 2, does anyone know what style and a source for =
the Trim=20
around the vinyl top. Any input on these 2 items would be gratefully =
appreciated=20
as I'm getting close to installing it and would like to make sure I do =
it as=20
close to correct as possible. </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01BDDFE9.9B065760--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 15:48:52 -0400
From: "Johnny Gage" <bladernr@roava.net>
Subject: Re: "Daily Driver"...Early Toro Expert on the list

be sure to look for the general stuff...  like oil and sludge on the motor,
around seals, ect, check the carb and manifold for gas leakage, and if you
can, look under the car for rusted out floor boards, and rusted frame, tail
pipes, etc.  Those are the biggies that i know of...  and you may want to
check the CV boots (cause it is FWD and they wear out) and be sure to drive
it a good bit at many different speeds to listen for noises, creaks and
graons that may become probs later...
- -----Original Message-----
From: SpeedCom@aol.com <SpeedCom@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 14, 1998 11:55 AM
Subject: Re: "Daily Driver"...Early Toro Expert on the list


>WEll, I talked my daily driver search about the neighborhood and a local
has a
>'71 Toro in his garage. Haven't gone to see it yet, but he says it's just a
>bit over 100K miles and good interior, one rust spot on exterior. "Around
>$2000" is his asking price.
>
>Now, I wasn't thinking really of going that far back, but that is a car
that
>has always appealed to me. Who is the expert on the list on early Toros who
>might give me the important things to look out for when I see this
>car...probably not until tomorrow.
>
>
>Cheers/Carron
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 12:37:34 -0700
From: "Dieter R Schafer" <dieter@3-cities.com>
Subject: Re: "Daily Driver"...Early Toro Expert on the list

ICQ is a Messaging program works great! every one should have it loaded its
free!
Just down load it from the net free!
ICQ
Dieter R. Schafer
77 Olds Toronado, Owner
ICQ # 5180073 Or ICQ # 15373222

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 15:51:36 -0400
From: "Johnny Gage" <bladernr@roava.net>
Subject: Re: "Daily Driver"...Early Toro Expert on the list

wow...  I'll give you 300 for it!!!!


- -----Original Message-----
From: Dieter R Schafer <dieter@3-cities.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 14, 1998 12:18 PM
Subject: Re: "Daily Driver"...Early Toro Expert on the list


>I just Bought a 77 Toro! 403cid, No dents in Body 89,000 miles , all of the
>elect works
>set for 5 years, dry rot on tires bad paint oil leak! I paid $100.oo for
it!
>been driving everyday for the last 3 weeks! I think I got a deal my self!
> Love the car
>Dieter R. Schafer
>77 Olds Toronado, Owner
>ICQ # 5180073 Or ICQ # 15373222
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 16:02:12 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Old broken and rusted parts

I'm curious what you guys do with your 'bad' parts once you replace them?
_____________

Chris,

Like you, I realize that this stuff hasn't been made in 30 years, so unless
the items are total trash, I'll keep the old stuff.  You may recall that
455 motor I tore down a few weeks ago (the one with the sleeve and spun
bearing).  As Bob Barry aptly put, I'll be getting another block, but I'm
saving that one for when 455s become _really_ hard to find.  Sheet metal is
the same way.  It may not be cost effective to repair a part now, but I
plan to own 64-72 442s until they pry my cold dead fingers...well, you get
the idea.  I figure in 20 years, when a clapped out EV1 backs into the
front of my 442, that rusted core support will be looking mighty good.  For
example, I must have one of the world's largest supplies of broken 70 442
grilles around, but I figure there's enough plastic there to cobble
together two good sets should it ever come to that.  Every day I curse
myself for some part or another that I let get away in my young and stupid
days.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 03:14:59 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?

One good thing with that type of gearing is that you can cruise the Olds at
60MPH + and still be under 3000RPM. While alot of us high number rear end
guys can only 55 MPH and we are starting to enter the higher RMP range
3000+.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Igor T. '81 455DRB <igor455@home.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?
> Date: Monday, September 14, 1998 1:29 AM
>
> Depending on your cam and other stuff you will most likely spin the tires
> good, get good off the line and superb midrange pull.  Also, expect
speeds
> like 140 mph + depending on powerband.  If you have stock hight tires
> (205/70/14s) I calculate you need 4350 RPM to do about 140 MPH.  Even
with
> the bottom end cam I have and 3.23s it easily gets to 4500RPM in no time.
> With some stretch of highway, I can't see why you can't do 140.  Have
fun,
> this will be one fast olds.
>
> Igor Todorovic
> 1981 Delta 88 (455/Th400/3.23s)
> 1981 Regency (307/200R4/propane)
> 1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: DYeager535@aol.com <DYeager535@aol.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Sunday, September 13, 1998 7:29 PM
> Subject: Re: 455 w/a 2.29:1 gear ratio?
>
>
> >In a message dated 98-09-13 21:23:46 EDT, you write:
> >
> ><< I am in the process of dropping in a 455 into my '79 Cutlass. It has
the
> > 2.29:1 gear ratio with limited slip.  What will this combo result in?
> > Smoked tires, or what?
> >  >>
> >
> > Broken axles?? I'm not sure..had the 2.29 against my 403, pinion
bearing
> went
> >bad, probably not from the motor though...that 455 might push the limits
of
> >these rear ends, especially that high gear ratio. (GREAT on the freeway
> >though!)  Dorian
> >

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1482
*********************************
