Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1438


oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, August 19 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1438



AT 69 W-31s - the answers
'70 Restoration Question
shocks / restore headers / gold
Re: '70 Restoration Question
Re: '70 Restoration Question
'70 Restoration Question
RE: 62 Jetfire info
Re: SX start woes (Stop Re:'ing Don't blame me..<<yawn>>)
Re: Delta fiberglass front-end (was Re: Date: Tue, 18 Aug...)
Re: Re: Performer Heads for 455??
Hedman Headers
Re: '70 Restoration Question
Re: '70 Restoration Question
1982 88 better V-6 Assistance Needed
Re: AT 69 W-31s -even more answers
Re: AT 69 W-31s - the answers
Re: shocks / restore headers / gold
RE: AT 69 W-31s -even more answers
'87 442 top speed
Re: shocks / restore headers / gold
Re:  Ideas for Evans' motor
Re: '70 Restoration Question
Re: '70 Restoration Question
Re: Re: Re: Performer Heads for 455??
Re: AT 69 W-31s -even more answers
Re: Octane Question
Re: Screen Saver completed
RE: shocks / restore headers / gold
RE: shocks / restore headers / gold
RE: AT 69 W-31s -even more answers
Re: Valve Adjustment Question
RE: AT 69 W-31s - the answers
RE: shocks / restore headers / gold
RE: '70 Restoration Question
73-77 Bumpers
Re: 1982 88 better V-6 Assistance Needed
Repro ram air hoods was RE: 73-77 Bumpers
Re: 1982 88 better V-6 Assistance Needed
SV: Octane Question
olds list
Re: SX start woes (Stop Re:'ing Don't blame me..<<yawn>>)
Re: 1979 W30 H/O For Sale
Gas Tank Installation
pro jection
Oldsmobile
Re: 1982 88 better V-6 Assistance Needed
Re: 73-77 Bumpers
Re: 62 Jetfire info
ISO Left Disk Brake Spindle
A/C Hose Insulation Source?
UNBOUNCE: '55 Olds Info
Re: W-Machine Registry
Headlight high beams
Miscellaneous Ramblings
Saddleman seat covers
Re: Repro ram air hoods was RE: 73-77 Bumpers
Re: Headlight high beams
Re: Repro ram air hoods was RE: 73-77 Bumpers

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 10:20:45 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: AT 69 W-31s - the answers

All right, I did some digging last night I believe I found our answer
(or at least as close as we're gonna get)

1. The Supertuning and Blueprinting W-Machines brochure references an
automatic transmission, in back under the speicifications

2. The one magazine ad I have, which (I believe) is one of the ones the
Dr. Olds posters are modeled
after does not list tranny availablility.

3. The 1969 Olds 4-4-2/Cutlass/F-85 facts and features manual has a copy
of
th new car merchandising bulletin, which I believe is similar to what
Joe was referring to the copy
for 68   AND

4. It is this Olds bulletin which I have an ORIGINAL copy of
The document has the following:

Oldsmobile Bulletin     Marketing Department
New Car Merchandising
Subject 1969 Option W30 and W31 Force-Air Induction Systems
Number N/C 68-17
Date October 10, 1968

This document explains the W options and on page 2 lists option M38,
Turbo 350 has
been added to the choice of W31 transmissions.  "The three-speed
automatic
transmission is specifically calibrated to match the high output of the
W31
engine."

It also has an availablilty option chart and a sample order form.

And the final interesting piece and I quote
"First factory shipment of units ordered with W30 and W31 will be during
the latter part of the week beginning October 28."

So there you have it, not only ~the~ letter but a date as well.  It
would be
interesting to see build dates for ALL 69 W-Machines as this would (seem
to) clearly indicate that all W30 and W31 better have a build date in
Sept? at the earliest.  This also explains why the shop manual, printed
in Sept, does not reference an auto W-31.

Oh one more thing, that March 69 Car Life road test of the column
shifted
auto W-31 ....I have the article .. go figure.  Like I said in an
earlier post, I
probably should look at my literature again.

Finally (yeah I know, when's he gonna shut up) when I checked my email
this morning I saw there's an email from Frank Iezzi, well what do ya
know.  It turns out his 69 W-31 is an AT.  I asked him to check his
build date, so we shall see.

And now the real final, finally.  Got a call from the transmission shop
earlier ..... the W-31 is ready!!!!!!!!!  YES!!!!!!

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31 back on the road! (as soon as I pick it up and pay for the
tranny rebuild)
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 08:35:42 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: '70 Restoration Question

Hey Gang,

Gotta question for all you nitpicky restoration types:

On 1970 manual trans cars, the positive battery cable runs from the
battery, across to the engine, along the valve cover/intake, and then
down the back. When the cable travels along the valve cover/intake it is
held in place by two straps that clip to stamped steel brackets.

The question is...

Does anyone know of a source for these straps? I have about 7 or so
restoration catalogs, and don't see these in any of them.

Please help!


Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 10:57:00 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: shocks / restore headers / gold

Hi Guys,

My baby gets disc brakes right now. While I am doing that I could do
shocks too. So first question:
Any good deals on shocks for my 68 cutlass? What brand should I go for?
Specs?

Second question:
The headers on my cutlass are in pretty good shape, just a little rusty.
I don't feel like putting them on my new ALL GOLD engine like they are.
Would you paint them?
How do you get the rust off at home (no extra money for sand blasting...)
What color (PLEASE NOT GOLD!!! aaaarrrrgghhhh!) did they come in
originally? Are the isolating wraps they sell at jegs etc. something you
guys would recommend to decrease heat in engine compartment?

Talking about gold... tell me the heads came in gold too? I will have to
order 100 bucks worth of gold color...
I am really in doubt if I should do this gold paint fest. Everybody who
does not know that this is original will think I am a pimp. And the
people which will appreciate the color as original will bash me because
of all the other non original parts I put on. I feel like I am lost
somewhere in between there. Any suggestions? I am serious, I am
really concerned to end in a dead end with the gold paint... help!

So long, George


- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 11:07:19 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: '70 Restoration Question

>On 1970 manual trans cars, the positive battery cable runs from the battery,
across to the >engine, along the valve cover/intake, and then down the back.

This is news to me.  On my car the cable has always ran over the top of the
inner wheel housing under the plastic clips with the rest of the wires.  At
some point near the fire wall under the brake booster it heads towards the
engine.  Now it is possible the cable was replaced before I bought the car in
1973, but not likely as I seem to remember it still having the spring ends on
the cable at that time.  Had some trouble with them so they stick in my
memory.  I have not noticed anything different on other stick cars or the
assembly manual either.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 09:21:18 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: '70 Restoration Question

Dave,

I'm actually going by what is in the assembly manual. I have no car to
base this on. The assembly manual shows the big block cars with one
spring ring, one non-spring ring, and that the stick cars have the cable
running across the valve cover/intake. They even show a close up of the
straps that I am looking for.

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)


>This is news to me.  On my car the cable has always ran over the top of
the
>inner wheel housing under the plastic clips with the rest of the wires.
At
>some point near the fire wall under the brake booster it heads towards
the
>engine. I have not noticed anything different on other stick cars or
the
>assembly manual either.
>
>Dave Wyatt
>70  4-4-2



______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 12:13:44 -0400
From: mblanken@medaphis.com (Mike Blankenship)
Subject: '70 Restoration Question

Brent,

I have been looking for awhile and have not come across any.  I made some
homemades that look OK.  My buddy with a 4 speed W30 also decided to use some
cheesy plactic ties.  They burned in two, his cable landed on the manifold -
burned in two. Battery shot. Damn lucky he didnt burn his car down.

Mike
66 442
70 442 W30
71 442 Convt
72 442 Convt

______________________________________________________________________________

Hey Gang,

Gotta question for all you nitpicky restoration types:

On 1970 manual trans cars, the positive battery cable runs from the
battery, across to the engine, along the valve cover/intake, and then
down the back. When the cable travels along the valve cover/intake it is
held in place by two straps that clip to stamped steel brackets.

The question is...

Does anyone know of a source for these straps? I have about 7 or so
restoration catalogs, and don't see these in any of them.

Please help!


Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com


- ----- End Included Message -----

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 11:02:31 -0600
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: RE: 62 Jetfire info

> Today I spotted a '62 jetfire for sale only 1/4 mile from home....How
> available are Turbo
> parts???  This one has the turbo removed and has only a carb.  Not sure if
> it
> was a 2bbl or 4 bbl.

FWIW, There was a '62 Jetfire 2dr HT with the turbo-charged 215 Aluminum V8
for sale here in Utah last week.  I don't know where in Utah, just somewhere
up north, Salt Lake area.  I beleive the asking price was $800.  That's all
I know about it, although I think the ad said it was all original and
running.  Here's the phone number:

(801)685-2652

Later,
Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 13:01:57 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: SX start woes (Stop Re:'ing Don't blame me..<<yawn>>)

>Hellooooo-oooo?

Oh, hi there! I hear you... [snip of political, non-Olds stuff]

>I checked the battery connections, tried in both Park and Neutral ....>>
>
>Does that mean that you tried to start it in both park and neutral with the
>same results: idiot lights go out?

Yes, exactly. In fact, since the sun was shining from behind me, it was
kind of hard to tell if the lights were out or not.

><<....(thought the new neutral-safety switch might be misadjusted; made no
>difference), turned the key to on, made sure the idiot lights were lit,
turned
>the key, and "vroom" it started without hesitation. >>
>
>You were able to start it finally with no changes to other things?
>It just decided to start that once?

Absolutely correct. I tugged on the battery cables, turned the key, and it
cranked normally.

><< There was something funny about the car when I started it in the
morning; I
>dunno how to say it, but there was a millisecond click or hesitation before
>the starter turned the engine over. >>
>
>Did the starter crank normally, or was it exxagerated?

Not exaggerated in the slightest; this car starts like a champ as soon as
the gas hits the cylinders.

>I am kinda leery of the fact that the idiot lights went OUT.
>
>My suggestion is, of course based on a lingering problem recently solved.
>
>The contacts in the connection between my starter wires (not batt cable) and
>main wire harness were corroded and there was weak tension between two of the
>contacts.

I've had those pieces (the plastic connector where the harness passes
through the firewall) off the car recently when I did some wiring harness
repair, and they weren't corroded at all. Good suggestion though.

>Yes my battery was very good then, but it started on the first monday in
>January.
>
>The result was an intermittent failure to deliver adequate current.
>
>Difference between my prob and yours is your idiot lights go out.
>How do they go out?
>Do they flicker or snap off?

Like I said, the sun was behind me and washing out the dash lights, but I
got the impression that they were dim, and then went out completely when I
turned the key.

>If flicker, likely poor power feed from batt.
>Something like that happened to my father's Oldsmobile....

This is not your father's Oldsmobile... <doh! I couldn't let that opening
pass...>

__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	              MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 12:55:35 -0400
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Delta fiberglass front-end (was Re: Date: Tue, 18 Aug...)

>Would like to know availibity

unavailable (only for more common cars like the '70-'72 Cutlass/442)

>and price

prohibitive (it'd be completely custom)

>for a fiberglass front clip for =
>a 75 olds delta 88 royale convertible .

Unless, of course, you don't mean the entire front clip, but just the
header panel that holds the lights and grille; was that a fiberglass piece?
__________________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	              MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
1969 Toronado-  See at http://www.toronado.org/drbob69.htm
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX  and  1978 Electra  and  a
1988 Grand Wagoneer which can be seen at-
http://www.off-road.com/~ifsja/readers/wagoneers/barry.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 10:08:18 -0700
From: "Ben Jacks" <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Performer Heads for 455??

Ben, how much were the heads through a distributor? Cheaper than
Mondello's?
Nope, More expensive. Mondello sells for just a dollar over Edelbrocks list
price, but beware they try to sell you lots of other crap for it too. Like
5/16 pushrods instead of the recomended 3/8!

Just curious am thinking of ordering a set before i leave for Korea (I'm in
the Army) and will have them when I get back after a year tour. Just the
1500-1600 price tag is high on our sallery and always looking for a deal.

I'm a Marine and I know about out lack of money. Mondello is 1437, while my
distributor was 1592. But, We got on the list and with his connections I
got one of 20 in the world. If I had gone through Mondello, i'd still be
waiting, and might I add, VERY PISSED OFF. But I have them now, and am only
mildly pissed off at the lack of information provided to assemble them. Oh,
and I've spent nearly another 500 for the pushrods, roller rockers, and
gaskeets. Not a cheap upgrade, but I think it will certainly be worth it.
Have fun in Korea. I know several people who like it over there.

Ben
62 Olds f-85 FORSALE!
http://www.primenet.com/~olds442/forsale.html
68 Olds 442 (should get my roller rockers today!)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 12:19:30 -0500
From: Chad Schwartz <ChadS@pcsco.com>
Subject: Hedman Headers

>Now it takes me about an hour on that one bolt. I've
>gotten good performance, but my suggestion is not to go with Headman
>headers. They are poorly designed for our engines/cars.
>Just my .02. I'll update you all shortly on my aluminum head ordeal...
>still not running yet.

But, Hedman headers for the 350 Olds and 350 Chevy fit very well in the '78
- - '80 Cutlass bodies.  Probably the '81-'88 bodies too but I haven't
installed them in those personally.  They go in and come out easily.  Have
to remove the starter and header at the same time though.  One thing about
the Olds 350 headers is that it's hard to change oil filters and had to go
to a shorter one.

Chad Schwartz
chads@pcsco.com <mailto:chads@pcsco.com>
mIRC: ROCKN6
Denison, IA
'87 GN  T-Tops (TE-44, 40lb Inj, Modified Stock IC, ATR Cam, JC Chip,
                          ATR 2 ½" SS Exhaust, TH 3" DP, 3" Test Pipe, ATR
                          Ram Air)
'79 H/O T-Tops (400 HP/430 TQ ZZ4 350 H.O. Chevy, TH350, 3.73 Posi)

"Poverty Is Owning A Race Car"  "Happiness Is A Low E.T."

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 12:18:19 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: '70 Restoration Question

>I'm actually going by what is in the assembly manual.

I will have to check this out when I get home.  Does it show a difference for
A/C and non A/C?  Also my assembly manual contains pages showing 69 style OAI
for a 70 with a note on the page saying canceled (later it shows the correct
70 set up with the OAI hood) and also 69 style GT hood stripes (that I've
never seen on a 70) with no notations.  Could it be the manual you have has
something which was planned at one point, then canceled?  My manual is a
reprint (Xerox copy) from Year One of the real thing.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 10:30:52 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: '70 Restoration Question

Dave,

This is thesame xerox that Year One sells. I don't remember if it showed
a different routing for A/C and non-A/C. The car in question is a '70
W-30 4speed, so I would have been looking at the pages that pertained to
this car.

Also, if you look in the current Year One catalog they have a picture of
a mostly done '70 W-30 stick engine. Look at the picture closely and you
will see the positive cable run as such.


Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)

>I will have to check this out when I get home.  Does it show a
difference for
>A/C and non A/C?   My manual is a
>reprint (Xerox copy) from Year One of the real thing.
>
>Dave Wyatt
>70  4-4-2



______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 14:02:32 EDT
From: <KarlAune@aol.com>
Subject: 1982 88 better V-6 Assistance Needed

I have already informed that knowing which point on the rotor is #1 is
important.
Please assist this person in finding #1 on his rotor.

<< This 6 cylinder distributor has a hold down ring that indicates cylinder
wire locations. In short should i use the ring locations or the locations the
manuals tell me. >>

If it is possible that the hold down "ring" (???) may not have come with the
car (a removeable peice) then ignore it. It might have come frome a different
make of car.

<< The biggest error in the manuals is they don't tell you where No 1 is
relative to the
dog ear overhang or battery wire connector is. thanx for responding so quickly
>>

 >Dog ear?
 >Do not have one of those in my car........
 >
 >I hope that your distributor is connected to the coil and not the
battery....

 I have an 82 olds delta 88 royale v6 231 cid the dog ear I was referring to
was the, for the lack of a better term appendage projecting from the side of
the distributor cap. This is where the module from under the rotor plugs into
as well as two other wires.  From what I gather as long as the firing order is
correct it doesn't matter. The hold down ring does show this order.What was
confusing is that reference manuals dont show you those things that a novice
doesnt know. All experts are sloppy in some respect, mostly I find when I ask
a question of someone who is an expert, the answer is usually several levels
above. Hence significant details can be omitted. >>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 10:48:45 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: AT 69 W-31s -even more answers

- -----Original Message-----
From: Smetana, Christopher <csmetana@dowagro.com>
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, August 19, 1998 8:25 AM
Subject: AT 69 W-31s - the answers


>
>>
>And the final interesting piece and I quote
>"First factory shipment of units ordered with W30 and W31 will be during
>the latter part of the week beginning October 28."
>
>So there you have it, not only ~the~ letter but a date as well.  It
>would be
>interesting to see build dates for ALL 69 W-Machines as this would (seem
>to) clearly indicate that all W30 and W31 better have a build date in
>Sept? at the earliest.  This also explains why the shop manual, printed
>in Sept, does not reference an auto W-31.
>
>Oh one more thing, that March 69 Car Life road test of the column
>shifted
>auto W-31 ....I have the article .. go figure.  Like I said in an
>earlier post, I
>probably should look at my literature again.
>
>the car life road test also lists the 3 and 4 speeds as the the only
available options previously as well the car also had manual disc brakes
these were listed as not available at time of print my W had manual drums
all the way around it was a reat car and ran quarter mile times in the mid
to low 13s (was working on getting quicker) then it got hit by a nissan that
was traveling at about 65 mph T-bone woke up in the hospital about 5 hrs
later only to be told that the car was now a convertible and shaped roughly
like a horse shoe alas a total but I still have the engine the trans was
made into a three piece kit driveshaft   pretzel diffy sold almost
immediately now I have a 69 442 that needs one go figure...kk>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 11:12:17 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: AT 69 W-31s - the answers

Smetana, Christopher wrote:

> All right, I did some digging last night I believe I found our answer
> (or at least as close as we're gonna get)
>
>
> This document explains the W options and on page 2 lists option M38,
> Turbo 350 has
> been added to the choice of W31 transmissions.  "The three-speed
> automatic
> transmission is specifically calibrated to match the high output of the
> W31
> engine."
>
> Chris Smetana
>

Now the magic question.  What code is on your servo cover (I'm going to
guess JO?).
And is it the original TH350 with the VIN stamped on the case?


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 14:24:56 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: shocks / restore headers / gold

Hi, George.  Answers instespersed below:

==============

Any good deals on shocks for my 68 cutlass? What brand should I go for?
Specs?
__________

These are a matter of choice and cost.  Konis are obviously the best, but
you'll pay over $90 a pair.  More realistically, I've used Monroe Gas
shocks with good results.

==============

The headers on my cutlass are in pretty good shape, just a little rusty.
I don't feel like putting them on my new ALL GOLD engine like they are.
Would you paint them?
How do you get the rust off at home (no extra money for sand blasting...)
What color (PLEASE NOT GOLD!!! aaaarrrrgghhhh!) did they come in
originally?
__________

Are you talking about aftermarket tube headers or the factory cast iron
manifolds?  The manifolds were left bare from the factory, and naturally
rusted immediately.  Many restoration supply houses sell a high-temp paint
in a "bare cast iron" color.  Unfortunately, all of these products require
sandblasting first.

Aftermarket headers can naturally be the color of your choice, but I've
never seen a high-temp paint that lasted on headers.  The hot setup (pun
only slightly intended) is the ceramic-metallic coating sold by HPC, Jet
Hot, and others.  These outfits will charge upwards of $150 to sandblast
and coat a set of headers.  I just ordered a product from a company called
Powerhouse (don't know how I got on their mailing list, but they have some
cool stuff) which is supposed to be this same ceramic-metallic coating in a
form you can apply at home and cure in your oven (note:  this is _not_ the
Eastwood powdercoat, this is a different, water-based product for high-temp
applications).  They claim 12 oz will coat a set of headers - the stuff
sells for $20 for 6 oz, so for $40 you can coat your headers.  You still
need to sandblast first.  I'll be doing some parts soon, so I'll let all
know how they turn out.

Alternatives for headers that I've used include aluminum flame spray and
porcelain.  Both of these coatings must be applied by a shop, and will cost
at least as much as the HPC.

==============

 Are the isolating wraps they sell at jegs etc. something you
guys would recommend to decrease heat in engine compartment?
___________

I've never used these wraps for two reasons.  First, it seems to me that
the wrap will tend to retain moisture against the header, leading to
accelerated rustout.  Second, I don't care for the looks.  Any oil spill
will obviously stain the wrap.

==============

Talking about gold... tell me the heads came in gold too? I will have to
order 100 bucks worth of gold color...
___________

Of course the heads are gold.  ;-)

Everything from intake manifold to oil pan is gold (heads, valve covers,
balancer, thermostat housing, front cover, water pump).  Expect to use
about a quart of engine paint for a complete engine, about $22 from Fusick.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 13:33:27 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: AT 69 W-31s -even more answers

>the car life road test also lists the 3 and 4 speeds as the the only
>available options previously as well the car also had manual disc brakes
>these were listed as not available at time of print my W had manual drums
>all the way around it was a reat car and ran quarter mile times in the mid
>to low 13s (was working on getting quicker) then it got hit by a nissan that
>was traveling at about 65 mph T-bone woke up in the hospital about 5 hrs
>later only to be told that the car was now a convertible and shaped roughly
>like a horse shoe alas a total but I still have the engine the trans was
>made into a three piece kit driveshaft   pretzel diffy sold almost
>immediately now I have a 69 442 that needs one go figure...kk

Yeah, I noticed the dual bail master cylinder on the test car, so I
figured it had discs.  I also ~briefly~ skimmed the article and noticed
mention of manual discs but they thought it might not make it to
production in time.  My car has drums all around.  Hey Kerry, since you
still have the engine, just curious as to what the vin stamped on the
engine is?  I figure it could be entered in the W-Machine registry, with
a note that it is no longer with us.  I'm guessing the vin starts
336879MXXXXXX

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31 JO coded TH350
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 14:40:33 -0400
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: '87 442 top speed

Message text written by ??????
>hows about trying it in 3rd instead of od?  or would it redline?  just
wondering about how the 3.73s act.<

3rd gear tops out at about 95 mph - redline

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma, Ohio
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E & 4L60-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'96 DCM Impala SS (Naisso #1365)  '87 Olds Cutlass 442 (OCA #028505)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 13:52:31 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: shocks / restore headers / gold

Just a note about coated headers.  The set on my car have been Jet Hot coated
and they have some rust(?) spots starting to show on the collectors.  I have
not taken the time to get under it and see what was happening, but I soon
will.  The good news is, the coating has a lifetime guarantee, the bad news is
I would not put them back on the car even if you paid me, too much trouble.  I
will check out the rust and report back to this list my findings.  If it is
rust, Jet Hot may not be the cure-all we had hoped for.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 14:53:50 -0400
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: Re:  Ideas for Evans' motor

Hello all,
 Michael Evans wanted ideas for his 11-1 bracket motor. I don't know if
his budget is limited, but a cheap way to build an 11-1 motor is to use
TRW BB chev 396+.060 or 402+.030 or .060 [396s are cheaper]. Cut the
dome off, and have the olds rod opened to .989. The compression hieght
is a bit higher on the chev pistons, so need less deck cut to get "0"
deck for good quench. The wieght is close enough that you don't need to
balance, and if you shop around for the machine work, you'll come out
cheaper than using 2323s. I had it done a few years ago, and
speedomotive cut the domes off for $6 ea.[i bought the pistons from
them]
 You gain about 12 or 13 cc this way[flat top with one uneeded valve
notch]. If you have an early block you can use std bore 427 chev pistons
[4.25" bore] and build a cheap 482" @ 11.4-1 or so w/80cc head, and a
zero deck.
 It has worked for me.

One a different note - would all the Republicans please take thier
opinions and moral judgements somewhere else.

Dave Brode

member of the Labor Party - www.igc.apc.org/lpa

64 cutlass 3500# pump gas 461" home ported "C" heads
11.41@119.96
11.66 on 10" street tire w/closed 2.5" pipes

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 16:07:50 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: '70 Restoration Question

On Wed, 19 Aug 1998, Brent Pinkstaff wrote:
> down the back. When the cable travels along the valve cover/intake it is
> held in place by two straps that clip to stamped steel brackets.
>
> Does anyone know of a source for these straps? I have about 7 or so
> restoration catalogs, and don't see these in any of them.

Need a better description of these straps.

Are they the black plastic ones with an eyelet at one end and a post at the
other? When closed, a little over an inch long? Used to retain cables to
the underside of the front tie bar and in some cases to other underhood
areas?

If so I bought some from Fusick's a few years ago. Wish I had bought
more.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 12:21:41 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: '70 Restoration Question

Greg,

I don't think these are the same straps. At least not by looking at the
closeup of the ones on the valve cover in the assembly manual. I could
be totaly wrong about this though. Like I said before, I am going on
what's in the assy manual only.

Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)


>Need a better description of these straps.
>
>Are they the black plastic ones with an eyelet at one end and a post at
the
>other? When closed, a little over an inch long? Used to retain cables
to
>the underside of the front tie bar and in some cases to other underhood
>areas?
>
>If so I bought some from Fusick's a few years ago. Wish I had bought
>more.
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>
>



______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 15:39:35 EDT
From: <SOMMERVLLE@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Performer Heads for 455??

Ben, where are you stationed at? I'm in FT Bragg. nc Thanks Chris

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 12:49:50 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: AT 69 W-31s -even more answers

will check when I get to the same state as engine I am currently in
california and in about a week I will be in missouri will get back to ya
then...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Smetana, Christopher <csmetana@dowagro.com>
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, August 19, 1998 11:35 AM
Subject: RE: AT 69 W-31s -even more answers


>>the car life road test also lists the 3 and 4 speeds as the the only
>>available options previously as well the car also had manual disc brakes
>>these were listed as not available at time of print my W had manual drums
>>all the way around it was a reat car and ran quarter mile times in the mid
>>to low 13s (was working on getting quicker) then it got hit by a nissan
that
>>was traveling at about 65 mph T-bone woke up in the hospital about 5 hrs
>>later only to be told that the car was now a convertible and shaped
roughly
>>like a horse shoe alas a total but I still have the engine the trans was
>>made into a three piece kit driveshaft   pretzel diffy sold almost
>>immediately now I have a 69 442 that needs one go figure...kk
>
>Yeah, I noticed the dual bail master cylinder on the test car, so I
>figured it had discs.  I also ~briefly~ skimmed the article and noticed
>mention of manual discs but they thought it might not make it to
>production in time.  My car has drums all around.  Hey Kerry, since you
>still have the engine, just curious as to what the vin stamped on the
>engine is?  I figure it could be entered in the W-Machine registry, with
>a note that it is no longer with us.  I'm guessing the vin starts
>336879MXXXXXX
>
>Chris Smetana
>Terre Haute, IN
>work: csmetana@dowagro.com
>home: chris@abcs.com
>
>1969 W-31 JO coded TH350
>1969 4-4-2 parts car
>plus others
>>
>>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 16:28:50 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Octane Question

>
> Suprised about your  octane levels. We have 95E, 98 & 99 octanes here in
> Finland.

Wow, neat.  How is the octane levels computated? And what's this "E"
after the 95?  Ethanol? Estimated?

If this is R+M/2 then that is a good deal.  However, beware, if it's
Research octane only, then it may not be so good after all.  But if it's
only Motor octane, then wahoo!  Great to have.  Just a word of caution.
Octane numbers, like the caffiene levels in coffee, aren't always exact
from batch to batch, and could be computated differently.  Just depends.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 17:31:45 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Screen Saver completed

On Mon, 13 Jul 1998, Daniel R. Gerow wrote:
> Well, I have completed my first screen saver dedicated to all of you.
>
> You can get your copy at:        http://www.stonehill.edu/~dgerow

This week I changed work locations and even though my PC came with me,
the no-help-desk folks at the new place managed to not only wipe out all
my local files (!) but zapped the Olds screen saver too. I now can't find
the link at Dan's page. Anybody know where it's at?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 15:32:47 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: shocks / restore headers / gold

>
>Any good deals on shocks for my 68 cutlass? What brand should I go for?
>Specs?
>__________
>
>These are a matter of choice and cost.  Konis are obviously the best, but
>you'll pay over $90 a pair.  More realistically, I've used Monroe Gas
>shocks with good results.
>
>==============
I prefer KYB Gas Adjust (approx $109 from PST for a set of four) buts
that just my opinion.

>
>==============
>
>Talking about gold... tell me the heads came in gold too? I will have to
>order 100 bucks worth of gold color...
>___________
>
>Of course the heads are gold.  ;-)
>
>Everything from intake manifold to oil pan is gold (heads, valve covers,
>balancer, thermostat housing, front cover, water pump).  Expect to use
>about a quart of engine paint for a complete engine, about $22 from Fusick.

=============
I think the crank pulley should be gold also? right?

=============


Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 15:39:09 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: shocks / restore headers / gold

>
>Just a note about coated headers.  The set on my car have been Jet Hot coated
>and they have some rust(?) spots starting to show on the collectors.  I have
>
Dave, not being picky ..... well OK maybe I am, but could those spots be
from contact with the fine roads in Vigo and Vermillion counties, among
others?
FYI to list members, I have ridden in Dave's 4-4-2 and the headers
scrape the ground occasionally going over rough roads (or should I say
bang the ground in some cases)  So it could be entirely possible the Jet
Hot coatings are being chipped off, right?  Granted I don't know the ins
and out of the coasting but thought I might mention it.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 15:41:32 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: AT 69 W-31s -even more answers

>----------
>From: 	Kerry Kroger[SMTP:kerryk@MCI2000.com]
>Sent: 	Wednesday, August 19, 1998 2:49 PM
>To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: 	Re: AT 69 W-31s -even more answers
>
>will check when I get to the same state as engine I am currently in
>california and in about a week I will be in missouri will get back to ya
>then...kk

Thanks Kerry.

>Chris Smetana
>Terre Haute, IN
>work: csmetana@dowagro.com
>home: chris@abcs.com
>
>1969 W-31
>1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 16:47:58 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: Valve Adjustment Question

You guys with the JM 22-25-10 cam--I'm curious.  What vacumn do you get
at idle?  And how about at cruise of around 2500RPM?  Will it work with
a stock convertor?  Basically I'm questioning how streetable this cam is.

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 15:45:24 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: AT 69 W-31s - the answers

>
>Now the magic question.  What code is on your servo cover (I'm going to
>guess JO?).
>And is it the original TH350 with the VIN stamped on the case?
>

Yes it is the JO with a 69 date code, I just haven't verified the vin
stamping yet.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 15:53:25 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: RE: shocks / restore headers / gold

>Dave, not being picky ..... well OK maybe I am, but could those spots be from
contact with >the fine roads in Vigo and Vermillion counties, among others?

Not these spots.  They are on the sides of the collectors themselves near the
primary tubes, not the well worn flanges.  The flanges are the only scraped
part of the headers.  I keep that part shined with the road, no chance for
rust build up:) They are sacrificing themselves to preserve the collectors.
How long they continue is anybody's guess.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 15:55:34 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: RE: '70 Restoration Question

>I don't think these are the same straps. At least not by looking at the
>closeup of the ones on the valve cover in the assembly manual. I could
>be totaly wrong about this though. Like I said before, I am going on
>what's in the assy manual only.

Do you know if this is the same setup as in 69?  I am kinda familiar
with what you are talking about, although, the one spring ring battery
cable, one not spring ring cable I haven't heard of before.  I thought
they were all spring ring battery cables.
If it is the black plastic straps they are available.  If it's the steel
pieces that are bolted to the valve cover, then my guess is parts
cars/junk yards.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others


>>Need a better description of these straps.
>>
>>Are they the black plastic ones with an eyelet at one end and a post at
>the
>>other? When closed, a little over an inch long? Used to retain cables
>to
>>the underside of the front tie bar and in some cases to other underhood
>>areas?
>>
>>If so I bought some from Fusick's a few years ago. Wish I had bought
>>more.
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 16:58:31 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: 73-77 Bumpers

Hey all you fellow weird 73-77 guys (me too), I found a company that will
make fiberglass bumpers for these cars for $150 each. He guarantees their
quality and his mold is made from the original pieces. Honestly, he will
make anything we want. He claims that his fiberglass doors(!) are complete
and ready for window tracks! Yes, that means complete door, not just skins.
He said he would make me a TILT FRONT END if I wanted it. His prices are
reasonable.

His name is Rob Johnson (yes, it is a company)
His telephone number is 905-857-6345

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 14:02:15 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 1982 88 better V-6 Assistance Needed

> If it is possible that the hold down "ring" (???) may not have
> come with the car (a removeable peice) then ignore it.

The "Idiot Ring" (as I've heard it called) attaches only one way
to an OEM AC-Delco distributor cap and maybe some other brands,
but often an aftermarket cap won't have the locking tabs so it
isn't much help (or the original wires are replaced with a set
that does not have the mating buttons on the plug boots), and
the ring frequently gets discarded at that point.

If your friend can find an OEM V6 cap for that engine, the ring
will attach to that only one way and he can read the numbers
off it and get his wiring order that way.

OTOH, someone else here with the same engine could just run out
to the parking lot and look under the hood for us, and we can
resolve the issue real fast...  :-)

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 16:03:51 -0500
From: "Smetana, Christopher" <csmetana@dowagro.com>
Subject: Repro ram air hoods was RE: 73-77 Bumpers

>
>Hey all you fellow weird 73-77 guys (me too), I found a company that will
>make fiberglass bumpers for these cars for $150 each. He guarantees their
>quality and his mold is made from the original pieces. Honestly, he will
>make anything we want. He claims that his fiberglass doors(!) are complete
>and ready for window tracks! Yes, that means complete door, not just skins.
>He said he would make me a TILT FRONT END if I wanted it. His prices are
>reasonable.
>
>His name is Rob Johnson (yes, it is a company)
>His telephone number is 905-857-6345

Hmmm, wasn't there a discussion about making a better quality repro
70-72 ram air hood a while back?  Just nobody could get everything to
work out, ie committed orders, place to do it and do it correctly and at
a reasonable price, etc.  Could he/they be our savior.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@dowagro.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 14:20:25 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 1982 88 better V-6 Assistance Needed

Previously I babbled:

>The "Idiot Ring" (as I've heard it called) attaches only one way
>to an OEM AC-Delco distributor cap and maybe some other brands,
>but often an aftermarket cap won't have the locking tabs so it
>isn't much help [blah, blah, blah...]

No, wait a minute; it clips on to the dust cover of the coil,
not the cap, right? That part gets migrated over to the new cap.
So I guess the ring only gets tossed when the plug wires are
replaced by new ones that don't have the button on the top which
attaches the ring to the plug boots.

Anyhow, find a V6 ring, press it on the cap, and see where the
numbers line up...

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 23:37:37 +0200
From: "TRONDJARLE PEDERSEN" <trondped@c2i.net>
Subject: SV: Octane Question

>In Finland?  Are we World Wide?
>
>WoW!

Yupp Norway here...


> Suprised about your  octane levels. We have 95E, 98 & 99 octanes
>here in
> Finland.

Our european octane levels are not the same as U.S levels our 98 is almost as
hig as U.S. 92 octane

Trond

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 18:00:55 EDT
From: <Bumluk@aol.com>
Subject: olds list

olds list

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 18:04:45 -0400
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <tjacquillard@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: SX start woes (Stop Re:'ing Don't blame me..<<yawn>>)

> << The SX didn't want to start today after work. I went out, turned the key,
> and not even a click; warning lights went out and didn't come back on. (huh?)
>
> I checked the battery connections, tried in both Park and Neutral ....>>
 turned the key to on, made sure the idiot lights were lit, turned
> the key, and "vroom" it started without hesitation. >>
> (SNIP,SNIP,SNIP)
My car was also doing this recently. I went through the whole battery
system and went to new heavier wires. In a matter of a couple of days I
found out that it did not help. I then pulled the starter and did
several ground hops with the same battery. The problem was still
evident. This was the third time in two years. I changed to a F*rd
starter relay on the firewall. I bypassed the solenoid on the starter. I
have headers on my car and apparently they are burning up the solenoid.
I haven't had any more problems so far, and this time I did not change
starters. I wasn't paying for another starter because of a bad solenoid.
hope this helps, I know I have seen this posted more than once.
T.J.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 18:19:58 EDT
From: <MNManiac@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 1979 W30 H/O For Sale

In a message dated 98-08-19 04:03:26 EDT, you write:

<< windows, bucket seats, and console.
  The car has been sitting for several years and had a tree limb fall on
 the top of the car behind the drivers side t-top, but was not badly
 damaged. The car does have some rust that would need to be repaired. The
 79 also shows 56,000 actual miles on the odometer. I do not have any
 intrest in the car, I will not gain anything from the car
 ect...ect...ect...
 The asking price is $500.00 OBO >>


Hell, if it RUNS decently it's worth $500!


- -Drew in Windy Western Kansas-

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 18:52:38 EDT
From: <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: Gas Tank Installation

I just finished putting on my W-27 cover and am now working on the gas tank.
Could somebody out there please give me step by step instruction on how to
install the tank? What end of the strap goes on first?
Thanks,
Jim McKeague
http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 15:51:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: jalkara <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: pro jection

would the person with the pro jection for sale emailme direct as  my
saerver will not let me maill you.  tell me more about the set up you have
for sale

tia

47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 19:09:54 -0400
From: "James I Mack" <nmack@gte.net>
Subject: Oldsmobile

I have a '55 Olds 88 Holiday 2-door coupe. I am restoring this car and would
appreciate any empirical knowledge on potential pitfalls and shortcomings. I
also have never seen a '55 in showroom condition.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 16:21:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: JM <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 1982 88 better V-6 Assistance Needed

- ---"Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com> wrote:

> OTOH, someone else here with the same engine could just run out
> to the parking lot and look under the hood for us, and we can
> resolve the issue real fast...  :-)


I've got one,but have obviously deleted somthing along the line,Hit me
direct if you still need the info,I'll go look for you.
                John
==
mailto:super442@yahoo.com           ICQ # 16956740
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73--http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof--307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 20:01:09 EDT
From: <DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com>
Subject: Re: 73-77 Bumpers

wanna call this guy to see if he wants to sponcer us???

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 20:16:20 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: 62 Jetfire info

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:

> As you might have guessed, turbo parts and the dedicated sidedraft
> Rochester carb are almost impossible to find without a car attached.  I've
> seen a few advertised in Hemmings over the last ten years, but not more
> than a few (say 3-5).  Note that the carb is actually very similar to the
> one used on the Turbo Corvair.

I used to have one of these, a complete system, right down to the Rocket
Fluid glass bottle.  Turbo was seized.  Got for nothing out of the attic
of a long time Olds dealer.  It was scattered all over the attic.  We
pieced it together until we had everything but a few vacuum hoses.  I
sold the whole setup for $400, and as I said the turbo was seized.  That
was back in '90 or '91.  Sold it to Bruce Sweeter from Mass.  He picked
it up when he was here for spring Carlisle that year.  I still have his
business card around here somewhere...

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 22:09:53 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: ISO Left Disk Brake Spindle

I know it's a longshot, but someone here is looking for only the left
disk brake spindle from a '68-'72 A-body. Anybody have one they want to
sell, mail me direct. Thanks!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 22:11:52 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: A/C Hose Insulation Source?

Apparently you used to be able to buy the foam insulation that covers the
A/C hoses for '60s-early '70s Cutlasses, but of late it's become
unavailable. Anyone know of a source?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 22:13:18 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '55 Olds Info

Not on the list, respond to nmack@gte.net if you have any info.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"James I Mack" <nmack@gte.net>
Subject: Oldsmobile

I have a '55 Olds 88 Holiday 2-door coupe. I am restoring this car and would
appreciate any empirical knowledge on potential pitfalls and shortcomings. I
also have never seen a '55 in showroom condition.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 21:19:52 EDT
From: <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Subject: Re: W-Machine Registry

The registry is going pretty good!! There has to be more people on the list
who have w-Machines that haven't sent me any info. I have about 15 cars.
Chris- E-mail me the info privatley. Most cars have been automatics or 4
speeds. I have the only 3 speed W-31 on the registry. I will keep everybody
posted about the registry.
Thanks,
Jim McKeague



 Hmm, I feebly attempted one about a year ago or so and just haven't had
 time to pursue it further.  I've contacted Jim McKeague about helping
 him out with his W-Machine registry.  I wonder how far along he is, Jim
 have you gotten anywhere?  I've still got that list of W-31s for you,
 just need to get it to you.
 Not only would I be interested in the same things as Mr. Schinkel, but
 remember 3-spd were available.  Now that would be a unique car.  I
 wonder how many are left? >>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 21:35:37 -0400
From: Kyle Roe <karoe@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Headlight high beams

My low beams work just fine. When I hit the floor dimmer to bring high beams,
ALL headlights go out !
I do get the little blue high beam indicator on the dash, no other dash lights
or interior lights appear to be affected.
I swapped the floor dimmer button out with one that works good, and problem
persists.
Any suggestions, Thanks.

Kyle
'70 442 ragtop

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 18:39:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: Miscellaneous Ramblings

     Joe P, I agree totally on the snap on cap wheels looking out of
place on the earlier cars. Since that time I've been lucky enough to
find some bolt on cap 15x7 SSIIs!
These will make it onto one of the cars as soon as I get some tires to
put on them!

     Does anyone in the DC-MD-VA area have any plain 15x7 small bolt
pattern wheels for sale? I would like to get 2 but would buy 4...I
think these came on early 80s Malibu station wagons and Malibu police
cars...what else had them?

     I've been working on the 86 Supreme and my loose front end turned
out to be just worn out outer tie rod ends. I pried on everything and
those were the only bad parts I found. Of course the shocks are bad
too (visibly leaking!). I would like to rebuild the whole front end
but at this point it's just getting what's needed :) I'm thinking
about KYB shocks...PST has 4 for $109: free shipping, no tax. BTW the
recently installed Sunpro mechanical gauges are working out great...

     The garage is coming along, slowly of course. I did order the 3
garage doors and they are IN and ready to be picked up. BTW I saved
over $500 on the 3 doors by looking around on the internet for
suppliers. I have to drive to Frederick to pick them up this
Friday....about 120 miles each way. Still worth it even at 10MPG in
the 75 F100! The doors will close the place in and then I'll finally
be able to jump into these many projects I've been planning :)


==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our Oldsmobiles and more at
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 21:02:49 -0500
From: senator@mail.chorus.net (Robert F. Newbegin Jr.)
Subject: Saddleman seat covers

I just found the website for Saddleman Auto Accessories.  I bought a set of
seat covers from them (well, I don't need to get the Cutlass's seats all
grimy, you know) and I thought they were great.
I just thought that someone with a lot of automotive links might like another.

http://www.saddleman.com

Bob        '78 CS

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 22:25:08 EDT
From: <Cnvrt67@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Repro ram air hoods was RE: 73-77 Bumpers

<Hmmm, wasn't there a discussion about making a better quality repro
70-72 ram air hood a while back?  Just nobody could get everything to
work out, ie committed orders, place to do it and do it correctly and at
a reasonable price, etc.  Could he/they be our savior.>

anyone care to enlighten me about the exact problems with the repro hoods? i
have always heard they were poor quality but any exact problems???

just curious.....

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible
http://members.aol.com/Cnvrt67/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 19:31:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: JM <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Headlight high beams

- ---Kyle Roe <karoe@us.ibm.com> wrote:
>
> My low beams work just fine. When I hit the floor dimmer to bring
high beams,
> ALL headlights go out !
> I do get the little blue high beam indicator on the dash, no other
dash lights
> or interior lights appear to be affected.
> I swapped the floor dimmer button out with one that works good, and
problem
> persists.
> Any suggestions, Thanks.
>
> Kyle
> '70 442 ragtop
> ---My guess is that "new" dimmer switch is a DUD
Can't say how many times that "new" electrical part was a factory
screwup....another thought however,double check the ground.

                 Not sure,but some input anyway.
                                John
>
>

==
mailto:super442@yahoo.com           ICQ # 16956740
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73--http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof--307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 19:38:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: JM <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Repro ram air hoods was RE: 73-77 Bumpers

- ---Cnvrt67@aol.com wrote:
>
> <Hmmm, wasn't there a discussion about making a better quality repro
> 70-72 ram air hood a while back?  Just nobody could get everything to
> work out, ie committed orders, place to do it and do it correctly
and at
> a reasonable price, etc.  Could he/they be our savior.>
>
> anyone care to enlighten me about the exact problems with the repro
hoods? i
> have always heard they were poor quality but any exact problems???
>
> just curious.....
>
> Brent
> 1967 Cutlass Convertible
> http://members.aol.com/Cnvrt67/index.html
>
- ---Most repro hoods are made of "race glass", meaning very thin
constuction,to make it lighter still for racing.Also, MOST of them
don't allow you to utilize the factory latching mech. and/or hood
springs.
   Ever notice those guys with the wood stick for a hood prop? Really
bugs me to see someone put alot of $$$ into a car and prop the hood
with a stick!!
               John
==
mailto:super442@yahoo.com           ICQ # 16956740
1985 Cutlass-----T-Tops--307 H.O./3.73--http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
1984 Cutlass-Moonroof--307 http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/PatsCar.html
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be 403!



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1438
*********************************
