
oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, November 3 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1585



Re: OCA Web Site Updated
Collector Insurance
G-Body Organization Update
Re: Hagerty Insurance
Re: Gear Ratios
Re: no heat
Re: CONVERTIBLE LOCKS++?
Re: New Purchase
1967 olds convert,90% original
Re: W/Z Manifolds and OAI Hoods
Re: W/Z Manifolds
Re: hagerty insurance
Re: no heat
1966 98/67 DELMONT 88rear end swaps
Re: ARRRRGH!
Hagerty Insurance
new E-Mail
Re: Questions about adjusting QuadraJet
Re: Questions about adjusting QuadraJet
Re: W/Z Manifolds
Re: no heat
Re: Hagerty Insurance
Re: Hagerty Insurance
unsubscribe oldsmobile digest
RE: Hagerty Insurance
RE: Question about timing?
RE: Hagerty Insurance
72 olds442 350 Distr&Coil
Re: no heat
Re: best 3A repl.
Re: no heat
what sealant for tranny pan?
SV: Holley Projection
12-inch Converter & 2.41 gears
RE: what sealant for tranny pan?
Re: what sealant for tranny pan?
Re: what sealant for tranny pan?
Re: Wasting bandwidth, non Olds, a Rant, way too long!
Re: what sealant for tranny pan?
Re: no heat
RE: 1966 98/67 DELMONT 88rear end swaps
saffron
Re: no heat
Re: no heat
Re: Questions about adjusting QuadraJet
W-30 Emblem Location
Re: Garage Stuff 4 sale
Re: no heat
Re: no heat
Re: Garage Stuff 4 sale
Baaad Day!!!!!
Trunklid chrome (was: Garage Stuff 4 sale)
Re: UNBOUNCE:  vintage olds parts resources
Re: Question about timing?
Re: Questions about adjusting QuadraJet
Re: Baaad Day!!!!!
which vacuum source for dist.?
Re: which vacuum source for dist.?
Re: Baaad Day!!!!!
Re: Questions about adjusting QuadraJet

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 21:26:57 -0600
From: "Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
Subject: Re: OCA Web Site Updated

Aw crud...

<snip>

Sorry folks...that was supposed to go privately to Brad. :(

- -Mark Tupper     1987 442    (OCA 30666)
mtupper@palacenet.net     http://cyberglyphs.com/442/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 19:49:51 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: Collector Insurance

     I use Parish Motorsports Insurance for my collector cars. They
are underwritten by Cigna. Give them a call: 800-274-1804. They were
the only company we could find that would cover a non-garaged
collector car.

==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our cars, trucks and a whole lot more at
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
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Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 21:51:17 -0600
From: "Austin Schroeger" <austin@lsol.net>
Subject: G-Body Organization Update

G-Body.Org now has the El Camino section up and running.  Thanks Ray Buck
for the help!!!

Also wanted to comment, that the classifieds section seems to be moving
parts pretty well.  Keep using it guys.. its free!!!

Austin Schroeger
Home ICQ# 16380613
Work ICQ# 7328959
(920) 682-3277 HOME
austin@lsol.net / austin@g-body.org
http://www.g-body.org
http://members.lsol.net/austin
1984 Monte Carlo SS (406CI)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 22:55:07 EST
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hagerty Insurance

In a message dated 11/2/98 7:24:15 PM Eastern Standard Time,
john.kreitzer@gte.net writes:

<<

Anybody out there had any experiences with Hagerty Insurance. As I normally
do, I sent in my premium today for it, and am now investigating the company
after the fact, but if anyone out there has had any dealings with this company
(good or bad) please let me know. A friend of mine was thinking about using
them for his 72 Supreme and was wondering.
  >>
   I have my 61 Starfire, 72 Cutlass and 71 Vista Cruiser insured thru them. I
had a 1972 Toronado insured thru them last year and it was stolen while at
Sams Club to have tire mounted. It was insured for $8,500 and I had a check in
hand in 30 days. They do investigate these things with independent companies
to be sure nothing funny happened

Everett   1961  Starfire     minus a 72 Toronado

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 23:01:14 -0500
From: Joe & Toni Artwell <tjf26@gte.net>
Subject: Re: Gear Ratios

CPEARLPARK@aol.com wrote:

> know is if anyone knows the ratios that would have been available on a 71, so
> Scott
According to my Cars & Parts 442 book:

Code Ratio Anti-spin
R2 2.56 X
R3 2.56
SA 2.73
SB 2.73 X
SD 3.08 X
SE 3.42
SH 3.42 X
SR 3.23
SS 3.23 X
TM 3.42 X
TO 3.73 X

Rear axel would have a code like SDO123
SD=3.08 ANTI-SPIN
O=Oldsmobile
123=Built on 123 day of the year
It is supposed to be stamped on the right front side of the axel tube.
                               Joe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 20:09:30 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: no heat

>I can pull the heat hose off the firewall
>while running and no water.
>I'm thinking faulty water-pump.Or what.
>
Does this engine have a vacuum water valve on the back of the manifold?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 23:09:57 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: CONVERTIBLE LOCKS++?

Looking for information on how to replace the convertible top locks
(latches?)
on a 1971 Cutlass Supreme....

Charlie Toone
__________

Charlie,

By latches, I'm assuming you're referring to the two spring loaded levers
and associated hooks which latch the top frame to the top of the
windshield.  These two latch assemblies are retained to the top frame by a
pair of bolts which install from the top side of the frame.  It is easiest
to replace these when the top material is removed from the frame, however,
by positioning the top about half-way up, you should be able to get enough
slack in the material to access the fasteners.  WARNING:  The same two
bolts which retain the latch assembly to the frame also hold the header bow
in place.  The header bow is the frontmost cross member in the top frame,
and it is adjustable fore and aft to match up with the windshield.
Removing the top latches is guaranteed to mess up this alignment, so be
prepared to readjust it when the latches have been replaced.  Simply
install the latches and fasteners slightly snug, lower the top, check the
alignment, and slide the header bow fore or aft as necessary to correct.
Note that you should replace only one latch at a time to prevent the header
bow from coming off completely.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 20:55:36 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: New Purchase

Yea they are hard to find.  All you have to do is walk into your local
Advanced auto parts, or your local autozone.  I don't know what the hell
he is talking about. Don't believe every thing you hear.



>
>Not really much to say...but I purchased a '71 Cutlass Supreme from a
>faithful Olds List member today.  I'm very happy with it, so on and so
>forth.  Unfortunately it will be my daily driver.  It's got the usual
>350/TH350.  A Holley 600 carb and such.  Real nice car actually, real
>solid.  It keeps the 4-4-2 out of the salt, but I hate to put it
through
>the rigors.  I was told to scour your collective brain for any
>information related to this year as I am sure some of you are
>specialists in this field.  I was told by the previous owner that an
>replacement Altenator is literally impossible to find.  Is this true?
>Just wondering for future reference.  Any other wacky things that I
>might encounter...please send 'em my way.  Thanks alot all.  Take care.
>
>Dan Gerow
>dgerow@student.stonehill.edu
>
>--
>---------------------------------
>Daniel R. Gerow
>WSHL General Manager
>http://www.stonehill.edu/wshl
>http://www.stonehill.edu/~dgerow
>---------------------------------
>
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 21:04:17 -0800
From: "HELROSS" <HELROSS@email.msn.com>
Subject: 1967 olds convert,90% original

for sale, resonalble
                                       Herb Ross

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 00:08:43 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: W/Z Manifolds and OAI Hoods

well the W/Z manifolds have a Zcast into the passenger side manifold and a W
cast into the drivers side one split center ports and no cross over  these
were on the W-cars and the standard 442 dont know about other models there
are also X/Z ....KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 4:32 PM
Subject: Re: W/Z Manifolds and OAI Hoods


>
>>Maybe a stupid question, but what are the W/Z manifolds?
>>
>>Del
>
>I was wondering the same thing.
>
>"pairs"?
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 00:25:22 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: W/Z Manifolds

>well the W/Z manifolds have a Zcast into the passenger side manifold and a
W
>cast into the drivers side one split center ports and no cross over  these
>were on the W-cars and the standard 442 dont know about other models there
>are also X/Z ....KK


Did these happen to come on say, a 69 442?  I had a primo set of these until
last year when we moved and my wife made me throw them out along with
a bunch of other old parts.  Dare I ask how much they'd be worth?

Kicking myself in the *ss for listening to my wife,

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 05:01:19 -0500 (EST)
From: KINNEYLM@webtv.net (MIKE KINNEY)
Subject: Re: hagerty insurance

I have hagerty insurance and know quite a few people with classic autos
that use them and they are a reputable company, I live about 100 miles
from where they are located , and have seen thier offices, so dont
worry, also I was surprised at the cost,  Example, 64 olds 88 , full
coverage, 0 deductable for $76 a year.hope this sets you at ease.

64 olds super 88 holiday sedan
86 chev S-10
89 buick century
94 pont  transport

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 07:10:50 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: no heat

>I changed the water pump on 78 Olds 88 350 in summer no problems.
>Now I have no water circulating.I can pull the heat hose off the firewall
>while
>running and no water.
>I'm thinking faulty water-pump.Or what.
>
Check to see if there's a heater water control valve in there. It'll be
inline with the hose to the manifold. It is vacuum controlled and allows
water to flow thru the heater when the controls are set to heat modes. The
valves sometimes go bad (or there may be no vacuum getting to it).

drc

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 07:58:39 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: 1966 98/67 DELMONT 88rear end swaps

All right list have a guy that called me last night looking for a rear end for
a 1966 98. I know of several 65-67 Delmont 88's in yards around here. I
believe that they are the same "B" bodies I'm not sure I can answer the
question if it was about "A" bodies. I want to make sure that I can help this
guy out and save him some money. The shop where he has the car wants around A
$1000 to rebuild it and I can get a rear for around 250-350, Just want to make
sure I do him right. Someone here on the list referred him to me and I want to
say Thank you. This list is a valuable learning tool and a family that takes
car of it's own. I'm glad to see that everyone keep it up. Thanks and waiting
on everyone's 2 cents. Thanks Chris


CHRIS SOMMERVILLE
69 442SC
70 442HC (FOR SALE)
70 W31
AND A FEW PARTS FOR SALE!!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 08:06:07 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: ARRRRGH!

Spruce, I know a little and will do what I can to help you. Know of several in
the yards around here if you need pics or referances look to be fairly
original and complete. let the list know and will try and help, Chris

CHRIS SOMMERVILLE
69 442SC
70 442HC(FOR SALE)
70 W31
AND A FEW PARTS FOR SALE!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 07:06:54 -0600
From: "John Kreitzer" <john.kreitzer@gte.net>
Subject: Hagerty Insurance

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01BE06F8.89AC9E80
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Gary,=20
=20
I know you sent a message to me personally, but after all the positive =
response to Hagerty, I felt the whole list would like to know more about =
them. So for everyone's information, Hagerty can be found on the Web at =
www.hagerty.com or toll free at 1-800-747-5348. The phone # may be for =
insurance agents, but I'm sure they can refer you to an agent if you =
ask.
=20
Thanks again,
=20
John


> John;

> How do I contact Hagerty?

> -----Regards,

>   G.J.C
> Gary J. Couse


- ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01BE06F8.89AC9E80
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3510.1400"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Gary, </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I know you sent a message to me =
personally, but=20
after all the positive response to Hagerty, I felt the whole list would =
like to=20
know more about them. So for everyone's information, Hagerty can be =
found on the=20
Web at <A href=3D"http://www.hagerty.com">www.hagerty.com</A> or toll =
free at=20
1-800-747-5348. The phone # may be for insurance agents, but I'm sure =
they can=20
refer you to an agent if you ask.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks again,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>John</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&gt; John;<BR><BR>&gt; How do I contact Hagerty?<BR><BR>&gt;=20
- -----Regards,<BR><BR>&nbsp;&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp; G.J.C<BR>&gt; Gary J.=20
Couse<BR></DIV></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01BE06F8.89AC9E80--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 08:27:56 -0500
From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: new E-Mail

List members,

Please note that I am dumping AOL, and am picking up a new provider
below. Thanks

         ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
               Mark Cornea (Dr. Decal)  OCA# 4903
                             1970 W30 (red)

                     <mailto:drdecal@wwnet.net>
                     <mailto:mcornea@ford.com>

                    Visit http://www.drdecal.com
        ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 05:56:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Questions about adjusting QuadraJet

>         Can't say for sure what this is but are you sure this isn't an
> electronic Q-Jet from the early '80's?  There were a couple of plugs
on
> the top of those (though more centered) that, when removed, allowed
> adjustment of the mixture control (M/C) solenoid.  However, I think
these
> plugs were pressed-in, not screwed in.  Though, I guess a screw-in
plug
> could have been installed as a field replacement. Even if the carb is
> electronic, the secondary metering rods are not controlled by the M/C
> solenoid.  Also, I think APT was obsoleted when the Q-Jets went
> electronic.
- -------------------------------------------------------

Now my curiousity is running wild on this one. I knew that there were
no idle circuits in the secondaries. I know that the carb is not
electric. It didn't even have an electric choke on it. I am definetly
going to have to check into this one now. I have never seen a Q-Jet
quite like this one and the guy at the shop said that it was very
unusal that there was a screw that would allow you to get down in
there to adjust that. I will check it out and will have to get back to
you guys.

Thanks,
Del
==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass "S"
1986 Honda Accord DX

_________________________________________________________
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Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 06:14:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Questions about adjusting QuadraJet

I maybe should also add that this brass screw is on the top of the
carb. It has this small cone that sticks up a little ways (Kind of
resembles a small volcano) and then on top of this is that screw that
can be removed to get at the one down below. I will try to figure out
what the heck this actually is!
==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass "S"
1986 Honda Accord DX

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 09:38:05 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: W/Z Manifolds

Did these happen to come on say, a 69 442?  I had a primo set of these
until
last year when we moved and my wife made me throw them out along with
a bunch of other old parts.  Dare I ask how much they'd be worth?

Kicking myself in the *ss for listening to my wife,

Mike B
__________

Mike, milk this one for all it's worth with the wife.  Yes, the W and Z
manifolds did come on 69 442s (that was the first year).  Yes, they are
desireable, particularly for the restoration crowd, however these
particular manifolds flow almost as well as headers with a much improved
fit.  Reproductions are going for close to $300 for the pair.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com


66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 09:01:40 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: no heat

Dave Cullen wrote:
>Check to see if there's a heater water control valve in there. It'll be
>inline with the hose to the manifold. It is vacuum controlled and allows
>water to flow thru the heater when the controls are set to heat modes. The
>valves sometimes go bad (or there may be no vacuum getting to it).
>
Dave or anyone....,

What should be the vacuum source for this valve?

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 07:02:38 -0800
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Hagerty Insurance

John Kreitzer wrote:

> I know you sent a message to me personally, but after all the positive
> response to Hagerty, I felt the whole list would like to know more

I think I had talked to these guys (Hagerty) when I was looking for an
insurance company.  If I am not mistaken, I think they have driving
restrictions (mileage, locale, etc).  Something to think about if you
like
driving the muscle car around.

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 10:25:38 -0500
From: David Booker <dbooker@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Hagerty Insurance

Just a note about insurance.

I insured my '69 442 convertible by simply adding it to my existing auto
policy with Grange Mutual Other car is an Explorer. I stated an "actual
cash value" of $15,000. No questions asked. Reasonable premium - $745/yr.
$100,000 liability.

I live in metro Atlanta. I am 48 with one moving violation (80+ in a 55)
within the last 3 years.  I have owned many high performance cars over the
years, and I have always used what I would call "mainstream" insurers with
few problems. (Grange didn't like the Cobra very much - but took it anyway.)


David Booker
Atlanta

'69 442 Conv (w/w/w 400 AT mint)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 09:31:41 -0600
From: "babbott@pdnt.com" <babbott@pdnt.com>
Subject: unsubscribe oldsmobile digest

unsubscribe oldsmobile digest

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 10:36:35 -0500
From: "<GJC> Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Hagerty Insurance

David Booker wrote:
I insured my '69 442 convertible by simply adding it to my existing auto
policy with Grange Mutual Other car is an Explorer. I stated an "actual
cash value" of $15,000. No questions asked. Reasonable premium - $745/yr.
$100,000 liability.

<GJC>

You might have claimed a value of $15,00 but I seriously doubt they are
insuring the car value on that basis... Hope you never have to find out.

- -----Regards,

   G.J.C
Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
Rt-1, Box-615
Bailey Road
Purling, N.Y.
12470-9709

ICQ# 5209322
CC-IROC-SS
518-622-0376
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

Couse Custom Cutlass,
'86 CC-IROC-SS-#1 = "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/~cousecustoms/

Join Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List -
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 10:39:50 -0500
From: "<GJC> Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Question about timing?

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Matthew Bremmer
Sent: Monday, November 02, 1998 9:40 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Question about timing?


I have a question about timing.   Basically I bought a 1978 Cutlass
Supreme with what I believe is a 305 V8 in it.  I checked the timing and
it set to 0 degrees.  My service manual for 1978 Oldsmobiles says it
should be set to 4 degrees.  I set it to 4 degrees.  Why would someone
retard the timing this much?  Could they do this to hide something wrong
with the engine?  What are your ideas?

Thanks,

Matt

<GJC>

Did you develop a "ping" after the timing change?

- -----Regards,

   G.J.C
Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
Rt-1, Box-615
Bailey Road
Purling, N.Y.
12470-9709

ICQ# 5209322
CC-IROC-SS
518-622-0376
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

Couse Custom Cutlass,
'86 CC-IROC-SS-#1 = "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/~cousecustoms/

Join Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List -
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody

Once a member, post to:
mailto:olds_gbody@listbot.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 10:49:25 -0500
From: David Booker <dbooker@mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Hagerty Insurance

Policy states value at $15K. Appraisal is attached.  Though you are
correct, they could be difficult if they wanted to be. Never had an "at
fault" claim so will keep my fingers crossed.



>David Booker wrote:
>I insured my '69 442 convertible by simply adding it to my existing auto
>policy with Grange Mutual Other car is an Explorer. I stated an "actual
>cash value" of $15,000. No questions asked. Reasonable premium - $745/yr.
>$100,000 liability.
>
><GJC>
>
>You might have claimed a value of $15,00 but I seriously doubt they are
>insuring the car value on that basis... Hope you never have to find out.
>
>-----Regards,
>
>   G.J.C
>Gary J. Couse
>Couse Customs
>Rt-1, Box-615
> Bailey Road
>Purling, N.Y.
> 12470-9709
>
>ICQ# 5209322
> CC-IROC-SS
>518-622-0376
>mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com
>
>Couse Custom Cutlass,
>'86 CC-IROC-SS-#1 = "Quincy"
>http://members.tripod.com/~cousecustoms/
>
>Join Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List -
>http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody


David Booker
Atlanta

'69 442 Conv (w/w/w 400 AT mint)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 09:56:33 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: 72 olds442 350 Distr&Coil

I have for sale the original 1972 Olds 442 distributor and coil that came
off of the 350 car. Both were in working order and are original. I also
have a fairly new set of wires for them also. Selling for $20.00 for all.

E-MAIL PRIVATELY....


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 08:02:19 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: no heat

>> I changed the water pump on 78 Olds 88 350 in summer no problems.
>> Now I have no water circulating.I can pull the heat hose off the
>> firewall while running and no water. I'm thinking faulty
>> water-pump. Or what.
>
> Check to see if there's a heater water control valve in there. It'll
> be inline with the hose to the manifold.

It might also be screwed to the top of the block. In any event, follow
both the hoses coming off the firewall and one of them should lead you
to a valve with vacuum line attached.

> It is vacuum controlled and allows water to flow thru the heater
> when the controls are set to heat modes. The valves sometimes go bad
> (or there may be no vacuum getting to it).

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the valve defaults
to Open when no vacuum is present. It could be jammed, of course,
but even so, I'd have expected some coolant to come blasting out
backwards from the heater core when a hose is removed, even if the
in-line valve _is_ closed for whatever reason.

I'd take _both_ hoses off the firewall at this point. If one is full
of coolant but the one previously removed had nothing, it sounds like
the core might be clogged (extremely :-)

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 09:07:38 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: best 3A repl.

>If you went with either a 5, 6, 7, or 7a (note
>small "a") they have 64cc chambers which would bump up your
>CR which in turn would give you more power.  If you surface the
>heads to shave off another 2cc's that would put you right at 9:1.
>That would give you a power boost by itself but you still need the
>intake and exhaust system capable of moving more air.

Yes.  I think that the easiest to find would be the 7a.  I have run into a
few up here in Canada.  Next time I see them, I will get them.  As far as
intake goes, totaly true.  I would get the heads and have them milled a bit.
And them, the absoulte must (wether you get the heads or not) is to change
your exaust system.  The best would be headers and dual exaust with some
Turbo mufflers.  If you can't afford it then get rid of your Catalytic (if
you can) and install a Turbo muffler.  I had a friend with a 350 olds (and
another with a 350 Chev) who only installed a good Turbo muffler and that
really woke the car up.  But remember, do this ONLY if you absolutley can't
afford headers and duals.  However, I think that if you get the heads,
headers and exaust, you will really like your Olds.  It makes a big
difference.  After, if you still have money, get a Edelbrock Performer
intake and a non-emmisions carb.  If you still have money and are willing to
do the work (probably should do this when you change the heads as it is not
much more money and you don't have to do stuff twice) change the cam and
lifters.  For about $600 your Olds will feel like it has twice as much power
(cam&lifters $110, headers $110, heads + work on them $220, dual pipes and a
cheap set of Turbo mufflers $110).  That is just my oppinion.  Others. Igor.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/propane/200-4r)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (367/727/4.10s)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 08:07:43 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: no heat

>> It is vacuum controlled and allows water to flow thru the heater
>> when the controls are set to heat modes. The valves sometimes go
>> bad (or there may be no vacuum getting to it).
>
> What should be the vacuum source for this valve?

There's a rigid plastic vacuum line snaking out through the firewall
in the vicinity of the A/C evaporator housing; it leads from the
dashboard heat slide control. Vacuum for that control panel comes
from a line leading off the vacuum booster/reservoir, the black
plastic sphere hung off the A/C assembly near the right side hood
hinge (passenger's side) under the hood.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 10:15:21 -0500
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: what sealant for tranny pan?

What's the best sealant to use on the tranny oil pan gasket?  I've
been through two gaskets (Fram) with ultra blue and it still leaks.  I
got a new pan (TH-350) 'cause the old one is dented a little bit, and
I'm going to do it a third time to try and stop the leak.  Is ultra
blue good or should I use something else?

thanks,
greg

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 17:23:09 +0100
From: "Trond Pedersen" <trondped@c2i.net>
Subject: SV: Holley Projection

>Do you still have it?  Want to sell it?  How much?
>
>Jim Brady
>1973 Olds Delta 88 Royale Convertible
>http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
>

No i am afraid that i dont. The car burned up when i hit a golf.
sorry. (I still think that its to small for a 455. at least with the originale
injectors)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 09:31:18 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: 12-inch Converter & 2.41 gears

I currently have a 12-inch torque converter in my Th400 behind the 455 in
the '81 Delta 88.  The current rear-end is a 3.23 posi.  I don't know what
the converter stall is cause it spins the tires effortlessly under 2000, but
I believe that the stall is about 2200 on that one.  I have a original 2.41
posi I took out of the car when I did the motor/trans swap and installed the
3.23 instead.  However, since winter is coming and it looks like I will have
to drive the 455 (and it gets cold and slippery here) and considering that
my daily miles are about 45-55 I am screwed.  I need as much MPG as I can
get (since I am a poor University Student).  I have heard (and makes sense)
that if I put back my original 2.41 rear I would have the RPMs fluctuate
cause the motor would be revving below stall speed even on high-way.
Swapping back in the old rear would be a matter or 2-3 hours and can be
easily reversed.  I would like to do this for winter cause it would help me
lots.  Can I do it?  Should I do it?  Will it destroy the trans or anything
else?  Not to mention that I would like to try the top end with the 2.41s.
It is a bottom end cam but the most I had it at in top gear is 4500 and was
still puling.  With 2.41s, I figure about 140 MPH at 4200 RPM!  Now that is
something.  Thanks.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/propane/200-4r)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (367/727/4.10s)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 11:36:59 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: what sealant for tranny pan?

On Tuesday, November 03, 1998 10:15 AM, Gregory Zimmerman
[SMTP:zimmermangm@email.msn.com] wrote:
> What's the best sealant to use on the tranny oil pan gasket?  I've
> been through two gaskets (Fram) with ultra blue and it still leaks.  I
> got a new pan (TH-350) 'cause the old one is dented a little bit, and
> I'm going to do it a third time to try and stop the leak.  Is ultra
> blue good or should I use something else?

When I changed the fluid/filter on my TH-200-C, I just used the gasket
that came with the filter kit.  I added just a touch (very small bead,
towards the outside) of the form-a-gasket stuff (RTV Gold, I ~think~) and
it's not leaked since (20k miles ago).

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 11:33:44 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: what sealant for tranny pan?

What's the best sealant to use on the tranny oil pan gasket?  I've
been through two gaskets (Fram) with ultra blue and it still leaks.  I
got a new pan (TH-350) 'cause the old one is dented a little bit, and
I'm going to do it a third time to try and stop the leak.  Is ultra
blue good or should I use something else?

thanks,
greg
__________

There's something else wrong here.  I never use any sealant on my tranny
pan gaskets, just the bare cork gasket, and I've never had this problem.
You've got some kind of a warped or nicked sealing surface, either on the
pan side (if you're lucky) or on the transmission case side.  Inspect the
sealing surfaces very carefully next time you take it apart.  If possible,
get a precision straightedge and check the flatness of the tranny case
sealing surfaces as well.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 10:04:13 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: what sealant for tranny pan?

Hi Greg,
are you sure it's the pan leaking?  A leak around the input
shaft will cause fluid to drip out of the convertor cover
where it's spread all over the bottom of the tranny.  I have
seldom seen tranny pans leak.

GM makes a black silicon sealant that you can use to
eliminate the leak but beware, it is very difficult to get
the pan off again.  This is the stuff that the shop used on
my tranny after it was rebuilt and I almost wrecked the case
using a hammer and a putty knife to remove the pan.

Gregory Zimmerman wrote:
>
> What's the best sealant to use on the tranny oil pan gasket?  I've
> been through two gaskets (Fram) with ultra blue and it still leaks.<snip>

- --

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@acs.ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 09:04:48 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Wasting bandwidth, non Olds, a Rant, way too long!

> Have a 73 Vega, trying to sell, piece of Sh*t, some good parts,
> drivetrain, mags, stereo, excellent interior, lots of cancer,
> good grille and chrome.

C'mon, Lou, it's 25 years old. It must have had _some_ redeeming
features.  :-)

I'm kind of partial to Vegas because my first car was a '75 GT wagon.
Bought it for $50; the Bill of Sale (which I still have) actually had
the phrase "believe it or not" on it. Totally rusted out, tailgate
held on with string, but everything worked, including the A/C and the
clock on the dash. Got a replacement tailgate for $25, fender for $7,
door for $15 (after a lady in a Chevette hit it and her company sent
me a check for $475). Sold it two years later for $500. While I had
it, I was at a party given by the guy who'd sold it to me, and at
that party was the guy that he'd bought it from in the first place.
That first owner's jaw hit the pavement when we pointed out the
window and he saw the car he thought had been junked years before.

> I bought an 88 Linc Cont w/133000 on it with no rust for $2000. I
> asked him how many he wanted, I can go to the pool and buy 15 or 20
> of those for $1200, no one wants those sleds.

Bring 'em to Chicago; this is where old luxury cars go to die. Just
park 'em somewhere near the housing developments on the near north
side, and you'll sell all the ones you've got, except maybe for the
ones that get stolen first.  :-)

> Ad was very comprehensive, "NOT A DRIVER, parts only, take two,
> make one". Sorry to vent my emotions here, wife says "take it to
> shredder".

Don't feel bad; these are the sort of doofuses that keep braindead
TV shows on the air, and unfortunately they can vote, too. There are
too many of them, unfortunately. Not your fault.

Cheers,
Andy

P.S. Have bought some Eagle One cleaner for the Bonneville wheels.
Decided on the A2Z since the photo on the label is an almost exact
match of the wheel I'm trying to clean (except it's BBS instead of
Pontiac). Will report back...


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 11:02:33 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: what sealant for tranny pan?

What's the best sealant to use on the tranny oil pan gasket?  I've
been through two gaskets (Fram) with ultra blue and it still leaks.  I
got a new pan (TH-350) 'cause the old one is dented a little bit, and
I'm going to do it a third time to try and stop the leak.  Is ultra
blue good or should I use something else?

> When I changed the fluid/filter on my TH-200-C, I just used the gasket
> that came with the filter kit.  I added just a touch (very small bead,
> towards the outside) of the form-a-gasket stuff (RTV Gold, I ~think~) and
> it's not leaked since (20k miles ago).

> > There's something else wrong here.  I never use any sealant on my tranny
> > pan gaskets, just the bare cork gasket, and I've never had this problem.
> > You've got some kind of a warped or nicked sealing surface, either on the
> > pan side (if you're lucky) or on the transmission case side.  Inspect the
> > sealing surfaces very carefully next time you take it apart.  If possible,
> > get a precision straightedge and check the flatness of the tranny case
> > sealing surfaces as well.

I have to second Jasons and Joes reply. Usually the rubber/cork gasket
should be enough. If your pan is dented maybe your surface got some crack
too. Also make sure it is _really_ the pan gasket that leaks and you
sure know anyway that you don't want to overtighten the bolts...
Good Luck, George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 20:34:05 -0500
From: "Rob Lewis" <fever@planeteer.com>
Subject: Re: no heat

Fluid is up,no pressure check yet,there was no problem before water pump
change.


- ----------
> From: Lars81541@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: no heat
> Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 6:35 PM
>
> this may sound stupid, but have you checked the coolant level?
> also should check for leaks, and clogs... and pressure check if you have
the
> equipment
>
> Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 09:30:10 -0800
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: 1966 98/67 DELMONT 88rear end swaps

I have a 66 98 conv. My understanding is you can put just about any 88 or 98
rear as a bolt in on this car. Donor cars would have to be between the years
of 1965 and 1970. The major difference from 88 to 98 is that the 66 98's had
very wide rear drums -- I think 2.5". Right now on my car I'm running a rear
from a 69 or 70  88 with a 2.73 ratio. The ratio stinks but the rest works
very well indeed.

Garden variety 88's I think had 2" drums -- but axles and all the internal
stuff would swap directly.

Hope this helps.

Oh -- A bodies are Cutlasses, B bodies are 88's and C bodies are 98's in
Olds parlance.


cd
> -----Original Message-----
> From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com [mailto:SOMMERVLLE@aol.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 4:59 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 1966 98/67 DELMONT 88rear end swaps
>
>
> All right list have a guy that called me last night looking
> for a rear end for
> a 1966 98. I know of several 65-67 Delmont 88's in yards
> around here. I
> believe that they are the same "B" bodies I'm not sure I can
> answer the
> question if it was about "A" bodies. I want to make sure that
> I can help this
> guy out and save him some money. The shop where he has the
> car wants around A
> $1000 to rebuild it and I can get a rear for around 250-350,
> Just want to make
> sure I do him right. Someone here on the list referred him to
> me and I want to
> say Thank you. This list is a valuable learning tool and a
> family that takes
> car of it's own. I'm glad to see that everyone keep it up.
> Thanks and waiting
> on everyone's 2 cents. Thanks Chris

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 12:35:07 -0500
From: "Dan" <dsm137@gti.net>
Subject: saffron

Thanks Buddy,
I WILL call
Dan
- -----Original Message-----
From: Juz440@aol.com <Juz440@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 8:51 PM
Subject: Re: ARRRRGH!


>Just found Telford Restorations phone number: (215) 257-6070
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 12:03:00 -0500
From: "Chris Brown" <Elric@dclink.com>
Subject: Re: no heat

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Elric <Elric>
Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 11:02 AM
Subject: Re: no heat


>
>>> It is vacuum controlled and allows water to flow thru the heater
>>> when the controls are set to heat modes. The valves sometimes go
>>> bad (or there may be no vacuum getting to it).
>>
>> What should be the vacuum source for this valve?
>
I just had to fix this whole thing from a vacuum problem a week ago.
Heres ho it works.
There is a black vacuum line coming out of a hole right behind the motor
where the wiring harness comes out it leads to the vacuum valve that is on
the firewall (that softball sized sphere).  that then leads to the intake
manifold.  okay, right next to that line coming out of the hole is another
vacuum line, its supposed to be black with a white stripe, but on the
firewall side, you probably cant tell that it has a white stripe. that line
leads to the vacuum diaphragm on the water valve.  the water valve is also
where the other end of the heater hose going to the back of the engine goes
too.

Chris Brown
72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 12:34:39 -0500
From: "Rob Lewis" <fever@planeteer.com>
Subject: Re: no heat

I think that might be the problem (stuck in closed position)
all summer.Can this be replaced or fixed.


- ----------
> From: Andrew C. Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: no heat
> Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 11:07 AM
>
> >> It is vacuum controlled and allows water to flow thru the heater
> >> when the controls are set to heat modes. The valves sometimes go
> >> bad (or there may be no vacuum getting to it).
> >
> > What should be the vacuum source for this valve?
>
> There's a rigid plastic vacuum line snaking out through the firewall
> in the vicinity of the A/C evaporator housing; it leads from the
> dashboard heat slide control. Vacuum for that control panel comes
> from a line leading off the vacuum booster/reservoir, the black
> plastic sphere hung off the A/C assembly near the right side hood
> hinge (passenger's side) under the hood.
>
> -- Andy
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 12:37:15 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Questions about adjusting QuadraJet

> It has this small cone that sticks up a little ways (Kind of
> resembles a small volcano) and then on top of this is that screw that
> can be removed to get at the one down below.

        I think we're getting somewhere.  I think that is part of the
float bowl-to-charcoal canister vent assembly.  I've seen a couple
diagrams that have that small cone on the left side of the carb and it
looks like a bowl vent setup.  I think the hidden screw is the way to
adjust the vent assembly.  I don't know the procedures, though.   Not all
carbs have this and some, like the electronic Q-Jets have it on the right
side.  Can anyone clarify?

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 12:49:03 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: W-30 Emblem Location

Does someone have the EXACT factory location for the W-30 fender emblem on
a 72 442? I need to know how many inches underneath the 4-4-2 emblem is it.
Also how it should be centered in relation to the 4-4-2 emblem.

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 13:57:51 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Garage Stuff 4 sale

Sorry Cliff no luck in finding that rare chrome piece
Good luck in your hunt

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
Parting
1969 Cutlass
1970 442



- ----------
> From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Garage Stuff 4 sale
> Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 12:33 PM
>
>
> Hi Robert,
> if the 1969 convertable trunk lid has the little piece of
> stainless trim across the bottom like the all 442's had then
> I'd buy it or just the trim.  I think this trim may be
> unique to the 442's and it's different than the large cast
> piece that read OLDSMOBILE.
>
> You probably don't have it but thanks for your time anyway.
>
>
> >  1969
> >  Wiper switch  > $20
> >  Radio plate (uncut)> $20
> >  Rear defroster Switch & wiring > $25
> >  Ashtray Doors   > $8
> >  Convertible top cylinders > $20
> >  Convertible Trunk Lid rustfree  > $150
>
> --
>
> Cliff Simpson
> csimpson@acs.ucalgary.ca
> '69 442/400/th400/3.23p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 10:57:50 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: no heat

> I think that might be the problem (stuck in closed position)
> all summer.Can this be replaced or fixed.

Sure. If this is the design with an accessible moving arm, you
could try squirting some Li

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 11:00:43 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: no heat

> I think that might be the problem (stuck in closed position)
> all summer.Can this be replaced or fixed.

Sure. If this is the design with an accessible moving arm, you
could try squirting some Liquid Wrench on it, and/or "helping"
it to move with your fingers; it might free up after that. At
worst, it's not too hard to find a replacement. The in-line
ones just swap out as soon as you loosen the hose clamps. The
type that are screwed into the block take a little more time
and persuasion to get loose, and you'll need some teflon tape
to seal the threads on the new one, but it shouldn't be too
hard to do. Getting at it is the trickiest part; sometimes
they're kind of buried back there...

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 11:38:28 -0800
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Garage Stuff 4 sale

Robert Schinkel wrote:
> Sorry Cliff no luck in finding that rare chrome piece
> Good luck in your hunt
>
> Cliff Simpson wrote:
> >       if the 1969 convertable trunk lid has the little piece of
> > stainless trim across the bottom like the all 442's had then

Are the 68 and 69 442 chrome pieces the same for both years (or same
year)?
Are these really that rare?

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 14:42:25 -0500
From: "person" <vbdeveloper@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Baaad Day!!!!!

So I take a day off from work, drive down to my local muffler shop to get a
new exhaust. Nice, warm, sunny So Florida day. I have the top down and all
is well.....Until a woman(no disrespect to women) driving a rice-burner(all
the disrespect to rice-burners) swings out to make a left without seeing me.
Bam!!!(at about 30 mph) Of course, the OLDS won. The rice-burner is dead,the
woman is OK(thankfully) .The right front area bumper,hood,fender etc ) on
the OLDS is damaged. However, I have never dealt with insurance adjusters on
this car(and hope never will again). How will they be able to estimate the
damage?? I do not want money, I want my Bubba fixed.. Has anyone out there
ever dealt with insurance companies?  I would appreciate any help, advise
etc.....


=========================================
'69 Olds Ninety-Eight Topless (slightly hurt)Bubba===
=========================================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 14:43:22 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Trunklid chrome (was: Garage Stuff 4 sale)

Are the 68 and 69 442 chrome pieces the same for both years (or same
year)?
___________

Nope.  Keep in mind that the 68 trunklid is straight across the bottom,
while the 69 has notches for the taillights.  Also, 68 has the 1" wide pot
metal strip with OLDSMOBILE on it, while the 69 piece is a stainless bead
that slips over the bottom of the trunk lid.

===============

Are these really that rare?
___________

Apparently nice ones are.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 14:49:36 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE:  vintage olds parts resources

In a message dated 98-11-02 20:55:39 EST, you write:

<<     Trying to restore a 1932 Oldsmobile straight 8 four door Patrician.
Do you have any resources that I might be able to tap to acomplish this
restoration?  >>

Steve,

As far as sheet metal, etc. dunno, but good luck.

For engine, try Kanter at www.Kanter.com who may offer a complete rebuild kit
as well as some engine parts and possibly be able to furnish correct fabrics
for interior.

Another possibility is Wizzy's which was (have not checked) at www.Wizzys.com
and claim to have a substantial inventory and been in buisines sice way back
when.

Actually, of 3 Emails. They responded Once, but good luck!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 14:49:35 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Question about timing?

In a message dated 98-11-02 21:44:19 EST, you write:

<<  I checked the timing and it set to 0 degrees.  My service manual for 1978
Oldsmobiles says it should be set to 4 degrees.  I set it to 4 degrees.  Why
would someone retard the timing this much? >>

Answer 1: stupidity. (been covered)

Answer 2: Emissions!

Yup!

Fiddling with the timing can change your emissions.
Too far one way? More hydrocarbons.
Too far the other? More NOx bad stuff.

Would suggest that (you do have a GOOD mechanic??) the next time you need
servicing, ask them if you can pass whatever your state mandates for 1978
cars.

Karl pays his guys a lot, but gets a lot back.
They'd prolly check the emissions for free!
(or out of curiosity)

Separate visit for fourth shock on and "check right rear drum that grabs?"

Explanation about axle oil seal seat out of round, no charge for shock.
(prev 3 + all 4 springs installed recently)

Barely possible that they ~might~ be responsible for it being out of round.
But for the experience, frankness, open-ness, and reliability, don't mind one
bit!

Rambilg

(Rambling....)

Karl real tired.
KArl fall down now.

SOM
&



   K

     A

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 14:49:39 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Questions about adjusting QuadraJet

Re-jetting, brass knobs, volcanoes and

<<   I think we're getting somewhere.  I think that is part of the
float bowl-to-charcoal canister vent assembly. >>

1) Hey Rock-ster!
     Why the heck do you want to re-jet? If this is a factory carb, then
jetting was set at the factory, and is based on your displacement. The only
real cause to re-jet is an altitude change of 1000 feet or more.
   If it is performance you desire, then you probably wish to re-rod you carb.
       (it's easier anyway!)
    There might be some info in the FAQ but the Roe book is a better resource.

2) As you are investigating the matter anyway, please send me your carb
application # (on the triangular, silvered tin tag) and the part # on the carb
housing (these appear to be similar but are usually very different). And any
picures of it you might have of it.

Why? for use on the Unofficial Rochester Carburetor Website.

Because there is someone out there looking for information on your carburetor,
just like you are now!

(Yes, gang! Karl has been leering at digital cameras and scanners with new
zeal!)

Thanks!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 14:55:25 -0500
From: David Booker <dbooker@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!

RE: Dealing with adjusters

Do not settle ANY claim until your car (and you, if you were banged up) is
repaired to your satisfaction.  If you accept a check in partial payment to
start repairs, be sure to obtain a letter stating that the payment you
received was not "in full" and did not settle the entire claim. There will
ALWAYS be more damage than originally indicated. If you were not at fault,
you have the right to have your property returned to its original
condition, regardless of cost. You can also recover any expenses you incur
or compensation you lost while attending to matters - including mileage.
The adjuster is trained to press for immediate settlement. Don't do it.

My wife's Sable was rear-ended last month. They wanted to pay almost $9,000
to repair a car valued at $12,000. We forced them to total it and pay the
full value. Took a couple of weeks, but worth it. BTW, you can also recover
a few bucks for "diminished value" to cover the fact that your now wrecked
car is not worth as much to a potential buyer - even when repaired. Be
firm, dude.

>So I take a day off from work, drive down to my local muffler shop to get a
>new exhaust. Nice, warm, sunny So Florida day. I have the top down and all
>is well.....Until a woman(no disrespect to women) driving a rice-burner(all
>the disrespect to rice-burners) swings out to make a left without seeing me.
>Bam!!!(at about 30 mph) Of course, the OLDS won. The rice-burner is dead,the
>woman is OK(thankfully) .The right front area bumper,hood,fender etc ) on
>the OLDS is damaged. However, I have never dealt with insurance adjusters on
>this car(and hope never will again). How will they be able to estimate the
>damage?? I do not want money, I want my Bubba fixed.. Has anyone out there
>ever dealt with insurance companies?  I would appreciate any help, advise
>etc.....
>
>
>=========================================
>'69 Olds Ninety-Eight Topless (slightly hurt)Bubba===
>=========================================


David Booker
Atlanta

'69 442 Conv (w/w/w 400 AT mint)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 13:57:22 -0500
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: which vacuum source for dist.?

Can anyone tell me which source of vacuum should be used for the
distributor and why?  Ported or manifold.  I can't find  a definite
answer from anyone.

'71 350 with HEI dist., MSD-6AL and an Edelbrock Performer carb and
intake.

Right now it's on ported, and I'm wondering if there's any more power
to be made.  The engine will take more advance at WOT, but at light
acceleration on the highway it will ping if I advance the timing
anymore.

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 12:28:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: which vacuum source for dist.?

- ---Gregory Zimmerman <zimmermangm@email.msn.com> wrote:
>
> Can anyone tell me which source of vacuum should be used for the
> distributor and why?  Ported or manifold.  I can't find  a definite
> answer from anyone.
>
I have always hooked the advance up to the ported source. I'm not sure
why, but that is the way I have always seen em.
==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass "S"
1986 Honda Accord DX

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 12:40:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!

The right front area bumper,hood,fender etc ) on
> the OLDS is damaged. However, I have never dealt with insurance
adjusters on
> this car(and hope never will again). How will they be able to
estimate the
> damage?? I do not want money, I want my Bubba fixed.. Has anyone out
there
> ever dealt with insurance companies?  I would appreciate any help,
advise
> etc.....
- -------------------------------------------------------

I am sorry to hear that! Had the same thing happen to me over a month
ago with my Olds. Some female tried to make the left before I got
there. I plowed right into the front passenger corner of her car. Now,
the bad news.

Insurance companies are hard to deal with on these type of cars. I
couldn't even get an estimate done on it! No body shop would do an
estimate! What ended up happening is that her insurance agent (since
she was at fault) hired a claims adjuster. This adjuster spent the
past month trying to track down parts. He did the best he could and
came up with a rough price on what it would cost to get it fixed. Now,
I am sitting here waiting to hear from her agent to see if he thinks
the price is fair. I want the check from them because I want to do the
work myself again. But, we will see how that goes. Be ready for it to
take a while! I had filed the claim two days after it had happened and
so far I am about 9 days over a month into it. It sucks but stick with
it and don't let em try to screw ya over! Good luck!!!

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass "S"
1986 Honda Accord DX

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 12:45:38 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Questions about adjusting QuadraJet

> 1) Hey Rock-ster!
>      Why the heck do you want to re-jet? If this is a factory carb,
then
> jetting was set at the factory, and is based on your displacement.
The only
> real cause to re-jet is an altitude change of 1000 feet or more.
>    If it is performance you desire, then you probably wish to re-rod
you carb.
>        (it's easier anyway!)
>     There might be some info in the FAQ but the Roe book is a better
resource.
- -------------------------------------------------------

I want to rejet because for one the carb didn't come from that engine.
For two, the carb ran great up until I put the Edelbrock cam, lifters,
and intake in. Now the mixture screws are both turned out 5.25 turns
and it still has a slight hesitation off the line from lack of gas.



> 2) As you are investigating the matter anyway, please send me your
carb
> application # (on the triangular, silvered tin tag) and the part #
on the carb
> housing (these appear to be similar but are usually very different).
And any
> picures of it you might have of it.
- -------------------------------------------------------

I will do my best! I will try to get some good pics of it also. I kind
of have to wait a bit though. I am still unable to get my hood open
since the accident. Haven't touched it until insurance gets done
farting around, trying to figure out what they want to do with it.

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass "S"
1986 Honda Accord DX

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1585
*********************************



