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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1548


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, October 12 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1548



Re: Pulling Windshield - Thanks for responding
455 fender braces
Re: ADMIN: PLEASE READ re. Reducing Traffic
Re: TH700-R4 in 72 
need info on 350 -74
RE: TH 200-C METRIC 
RE: ADMIN: Olds G-body List?
RE: Car Craft - No 14" Rims??
Re: Swaybars
Re: Disc brake boosters
Re: Karls Rochester Page
Re: need info on 350 -74
B.L.C. Fog Lights
oops - HTML encoded post
Mike Twerdi's '86 Olds Toronado
parts for sale
Radio Dial Lights
Re: parts for sale
Shipping seats
Re: 455 fender braces
REF:LADDER BARS QUESTION
Re: 455 vs. 425
Re: Transporting Car(s)
Re: UNBOUNCE: Need Engine ID
Re: Impact wrenches
Re: 2.14
200-4R & 700-R4
Re: Impact wrenches
Re: Radio Dial Lights
Re: REF:LADDER BARS QUESTION
Re: I bought it !!!!   86 442
Re: REF:LADDER BARS QUESTION
Re: Ok, just one more on the 69 H/O paint...
Re: Ok, just one more on the 69 H/O paint...
Wanted: interior parts for a 69 Cutlass
Re: Delta 88 saves Pierce Brosnan!
Re: 455 fender braces
14" Wheels
Re: ADMIN: Olds G-body List?
Re: Impact wrenches
A/C Dryer
Holiday
Re: Radio Dial Lights
Re: Car Craft - No 14" Rims??
Re: 86 442...slight damage
finishing a paint job!
Re: One mans conquest with an Oldsmobile.
Re: Gainsville track
Re: Washer Patterns
Re: 88 or 98?
Re: Wanted: 86 442 Rim
Re: Washer Patterns
Re: Radio Dial Lights
Re: need info on 350 -74
Re: B.L.C. Fog Lights
wheel fitment on a g-body
Re: Transporting Car(s)
Re: Air tools
Re: Shipping seats
Re: Car Craft - No 14" Rims??
Re: ADMIN: PLEASE READ re. Reducing Traffic
Re: Radio Dial Lights
Re: Transporting Car(s)
Valley tray?
Re: ADMIN: Olds G-body List?
Re: Washer Patterns
RE: Shipping seats

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 11:15:27 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Re: Pulling Windshield - Thanks for responding

Mike,
            paint your dash with satin semi gloss and paint the well,
once thoroughly cleaned, with POR 15 black - it will last for ever....



The General

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 11:26:11 EDT
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: 455 fender braces

I am putting a 455 into a '72 Cutlass that had a 350, and was wondering if the
fender braces that were used on the 455 cars were necessary, and if I should
add them to this car. Anyone have any experience with this?

Thanks,

Jon

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 11:42:00 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: PLEASE READ re. Reducing Traffic

do it to it

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 11:53:33 EDT
From: "Norm Baier" <nbaier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: TH700-R4 in 72 

Thanks for the great response. I'm considering the swap with a 455 so 
I've got a 

little more research to do... but your post is great start. Thanks 
again.

Norm Baier
1966 442
1972 Supreme Convert.

- ----Original Message Snipped----

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 18:03:40 
From: <crl6420@online.no>
Subject: need info on 350 -74

Hello list,
Does anybody know what HP/Torque the 1974 350
made ? 
my has the #6 heads, where they on the 350 that
year? i´ll be very thankful for any help on this Q´s.

i also have problems using some of the pages on the
olds FAQ sites. after loading, they become blank!
has anybody else run into problems with them?

Thanks for your time,   Chris RL

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 10:58:27 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: TH 200-C METRIC 

>Does this Trans utilize some sort of converter lockup?

Yes

>Prior to changing Quinces 2.14 standard rear for a 3.08 Posi, (housing and
>all as was changing bushings + springs), Quincy always had the feel of a
>lockup converter. By that I mean at cruising speeds you could hear + feel
>the engine drop apx. 300-400 RPM. A slight increase in gas and she would
>distinctly jump RPM back up and take off. You could feel the 3 physical
>gears than (I believe) the converter lockup (seeming 4th). She would cruise
>in this reduced RPM all day if not encountering a need to drop fully back to
>third. I.e.. hills or extra gas.

Yup!

>After the complete rear swap I no longer sense a converter lockup and she
>always stays in third. Bear in mind I haven't changed the trains speedo gear
>(calibration) yet. I suspect some sort of sensor, (speedo attached) has
>become over ridden by the computer because the now higher RPM of the 3.08 Vs
>the original 2.14's.


>Please correct me if I'm wrong but both the TH200-4R + TH700-4R don't have a
>physical 4th gear but achieve a 4th gear state via a computer converter
>lockup. Did GM also use this converter situation with the TH 200-C METRIC?

No the THM200 4R and THM700 R4 have real OD gears, they are planetary
gears with a lockup converter, so in a sense you would feel 5 shifts!

>When speedo Trans drive gears are recalibrated correctly will I again
>achieve proper converter lockup? (if that's what it was originally doing) I
>do want that 4th cruse state for interstate travel.

The ECM may be noticing the increased throttle angle and therefore not
engaging the lockup (interpreting acceleration).  Double check the TPS
setting.  Ensure all ECM trouble codes are not present, and that the car
is going into closed loop.  If the engine is cold or within 3 min of
starting or a trouble code, the car will not lockup.

Or it could be locked up and you do not notice.  Try this, drive at 60
mph, level ground and with your foot on the gas maintaining cruise,
gently tap brakes like you would if you were to disengage cruise.  The
converter should unlock for a few seconds, and then when you release the
brake, it should lock back up.  You can also connect a test light from
ground to pin "F" of the ALDL connector under dash and drive.  The light
will be ON when the converter is UNLOCKED and off when locked.  This
will only happen as desribed when the car is fully warmed up and the
brakes are NOT applied.  


>Quincy is equipped with 235 60 15" front and 255 60 15" rear tires/wheels.
>This change was done long before the rear swap and had no effect against the
>sense of a 4th lockup. Only after the rear change has the shifting changed.

With 2.14's jeez!  Talk about high gearing!!  

>Stats:
>stock 307 "Y" (custom ram air)
>TH 200-C METRIC
>3.08 Posi rear

>Unrelated. I finished the closed circuit ram air yesterday and can really
>feel with my buttocks the increase in HP . Especially mid RPM in second
>gear. The 3.08 were a world of difference over the 2.14's. I had a few days
>with her to get use to the performance change with the 3.08's. The cooler
>exterior rammed air is effecting nearly another magnitude of increase. I'm
>not positive but I think the formula is like 3HP for each 10 degree drop in
>intake air. I do believe I'm creating a positive volume over normal
>aspiration above apx. 40 MPH so this too increases performance do to a
>larger oxygen charge per combustion stroke.

Sounds like my car!  I have a dual snorkel air cleaner and dual ram air
from under the bumper.  Made a huge difference!  I am running with the
full Thermac and it still is worth more HP than stock.

I have a stock 77 350 in a 85 Cutlass, still with 2.14's.  I want
3.08's.  I still have a ball BURYING the speedo in second gear!  And not
shift till it HAS been gone!   People who have seen me passing cars in
highway traffic have been amazed the 65+ mph pickup.  She lifts the
front up some when I mash the gas!  Slow to get moving from 50 mph, but 
once the 2.14's are mid way through 2nd gear it is a blast!  I would
love to see what top speed of this combo is!  Maybe with a sweetend
455......

Need a trip to Montana!  Charlie, got a place to do top speed trials??

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 12:23:05 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: ADMIN: Olds G-body List?

On Monday, October 12, 1998 11:19 AM, Greg Beaulieu 
[SMTP:ab348@chebucto.ns.ca] wrote:
>
> Please, no offense intended to any of the G-body enthusiasts here. You'll
> always be welcomed. But it does seem that more and more of the posts deal
> with that topic, and from a very personal point of view, I'm getting less
> and less out of it. Now that it appears there is an option for anyone so
> inclined to set up a G-body list, maybe it's time for that to happen,
> which is why I mentioned the listbot service.

I'd be fine with having a separate G-body list.  I'm probably one of the few 
on here who ~doesn't~ 
have an older model, so many of the posts here don't necessarily pertain to 
me, either.  Of course, 
this list was originally created for the older cars, so the G-body folks are 
indeed the people that 
maybe should create their own forum.  And I agree that many of the posts of 
late are "G-body only" 
posts.

Again, I'll make a suggestion that I threw up a few months ago regarding 
subject lines.  Start them 
with the car line...for instance --> "Subject: G - Dash Pads" or "B - Seat 
Belt Retainers".  Maybe 
a subject line template like this would help out a lot.

I'd love to have a separate G-body list...it's just the time required to 
undertake such a task.  I 
respect Greg in that he's gotta sort through and forward all the bounced 
posts, etc.  Sometimes, I 
even find myself unsubbing from ~this~ list just because I have a lot of work 
during a particular 
week, etc.  If a G-body list ~did~ crop up, I'd be glad to take my business 
there...  :-)

Because I don't own a "mainstream" car here, and because I can't put in the 
time to "fix" the 
problem, I'll ride along and follow the flow with whatever happens here...

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 12:26:29 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: Car Craft - No 14" Rims??

On Monday, October 12, 1998 9:36 AM, David L Wyatt 
[SMTP:WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com] wrote:
> >There's a reason nobody runs skinny ass tires.
> FYI... 14" rims don't necessarily mean skinny *ss tires.  Back in the good 
old
> days (showing age again) the good cars had 14 inch rims.

That's right...I don't have super skinny tires, but I also don't run 14" wide 
tires either...I have 
225/60R14's and they work great for my application.  I'm sure they'd be able 
to hold up to many of 
the power setups that Car Craft specifically listed.

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 12:32:36 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Swaybars

> Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
> 
> Unfortunately, there are no larger factory rear bars that
> I'm aware of (the Trans Am rear bar is different), and aftermarket is
> your only option.  Unfortunately,
> they are big bucks.
> 
Just a hint for finding a large rear sway bar.
I picked up an 1 1/4 rear from a 69 GTO judge
I believe it was stock, but I never have found another so it difficult to
say either way.

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 12:30:13 EDT
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Disc brake boosters

Joe-
Got a special M/C part number that works well in this application, altho a '67
booster would work just as well without needing to change the M/C.
Peter

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 11:30:31 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Karls Rochester Page

> Looks like a great start.  But, what's up with that graphic on the home
> page?  Looks like two or three of my cars.  Peter.

Congrats to your new page Karl! By the way: I am selling a 2bbl 
Rochester-beauty just like on that pic you have. Anybody interested? $5 
plus shipping... 

Regards, George
- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 13:00:27 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: need info on 350 -74

crl6420@online.no wrote:
> 
> Hello list,
> Does anybody know what HP/Torque the 1974 350
> made ?

180 BHP@ 3800 RPM
275 Torque Ft-lb@ 2800 RPM

> my has the #6 heads, where they on the 350 that
> year? i4ll be very thankful for any help on this Q4s.

Nope, 73-76 350's came with #8 heads, better known as smog heads. As far
as anyone on this list is concerned, you might as well use these as boat
anchors. I still have mine, though! Just sitting in my garage and not on
the motor. The fact that yours has #6 heads means that someone
transplanted these from a 1970 motor. After a little work to the ones we
found, we get 9.5:1 compression.

> i also have problems using some of the pages on the
> olds FAQ sites. after loading, they become blank!
> has anybody else run into problems with them?
> 
> Thanks for your time,   Chris RL

- -- 
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 13:08:36 -0400
From: "Zambotti, Les" <lzambotti@idlpop.com>
Subject: B.L.C. Fog Lights

I am looking to find information on old fog lights I got at hershey this
year.
They have a plate on top that reads B.L.C.  2002-D Made in the USA.
The guy I bought them from said they came off a 36-39 olds. Can anyone
tell me if this is true?
I would like to find out as much as I can on them. Are they from a
dealer or from a parts store?
Thanks Les.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 13:34:45 -0400
From: "Mark Thurman" <Thurman@kvnet.org>
Subject: oops - HTML encoded post

Just wanted to apologize to the list for sending my last post in HTML, as a
member of the digest I know how frustrating HTML messages are.  Although not
Olds related (hoping Olds list related will suffice) here's the "qwirk" that
I experienced in Outlook Express (maybe it'll help others):  I wrote my post
off-line, saved it in the draft folder, then went on-line and sent it from
within the draft folder.  I've
tried to re-create this without actually sending anything & it looks like
when sending in
that manner, outlook will not prompt you for plain-text-only send eventhough
I
have the Olds list set up in my address book as a text only recipient.  Hope
this helps someone...mt

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 14:13:03 EDT
From: Summer188@aol.com
Subject: Mike Twerdi's '86 Olds Toronado

	I recently bought a 1986 Toronado. I have a set of American Racing 
5-star
wheels, plush interior, and Borla exhaust.  The color is bright metallic teal,
which fades into white.  I joined a car club called "VISIONS" which is quickly
progressing in my area of Northeast Pennsylvania.  If you have some
information on parts and accessories, please contact me.  This is my
girlfriends computer.  Thank you.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 15:01:21 EDT
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: parts for sale

this is a updated list of what I have Thanks Chris
Well guys and gals made my rounds to the junkyards this weekend and here are a
few of the things that I've found. I'f you are interested please e-mail me
privately at 
SOMMERVLLE@AOL.COM  or call (910) 487-1540 home or (910) 396-5420 work ask for
SSG Chris Sommerville (I'm in the Army, located in Fayetteville NC) all parts
are priced without shipping
all of this stuff is subject to trade need some 69 442 parts, and always
looking for another 442.
MY STUFF
1970 442 south carolina car, has some rust and dents but is a solid start. Is
a bench seat, auto on the column 455 AC car. Has the wrong year 455 in it but
know where the original 455 is located at. Car has potentialwas green on green
w/ black leather interior. Have pictures and can e-mail on request want $1200

68-72 A body rear end 3.73 posi complete (it's out of a ch-vy) good shape sold
68-72 A body rear end 3.73 posi complete (it's out of anouther ch-vy) needs
brake overhaul and a axle seal good shape $300

ladder bars and mounts for GM A body $75

Set of weld wheels front 2 are 15x5 and rear 2 are 15x8 good shape sold
new 4 core radiator for 68-72 442 used one month $175

flowmaster exhaust from the header collectors to exit behind rear wheels  good
shape $100

set of "C" heads pulled off of a running motor I would say that they need to
be gone through $125

set of "8" heads off of a running motor $75

picking up a 1969 C/S parts car in decent shape has a #5 headed 350 and a
turbo 400 e-mail for needs

Junkyards, will act as the middle man and I will have to get a price from the
yard for you.
1968 442 some small items no nose has a "C" headed 400 and auto trans (Sitting
for some time)

1966 or 67 F85 (2, one is a post car) and cutlass mostly stripped now some
parts left

several 1969 and 70-72 cutlass's 2 and 4drs

1971 442 been stipped inside and doors are gone rest of car in decent shape

several 455's most with G and J heads. one E motor

2 sets of T-Tops for 1979 and newer cutlass's good shape

several 73-77 cutlass and 442's 

TONS of G body stuff in great shape

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 16:15:33 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Radio Dial Lights

Been meaning to pull the Delco AM/FM/cassette (from an early 80's LeSabre) 
to change the dial bulb. Finally did it today but it's still in the dark. 
:( At least I found out why. Instead of a normal bulb, these use a pair of
what I guess are LEDs soldered to a tiny circuit board that is soldered to
a power wire. It is almost impossible to even test it without unsoldering
the wire, but I was able to get 12V and ground directly to the LEDs and
they didn't light up. Seems strange that both would go bad but they are
dead. Strange design. I'm tempted to try and rig something up using a
regular auto bulb but it's probably more trouble than it's worth. I could
take the radio in for service on this but that would probably cost more
than what I paid for it. 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 12:19:45 -0700
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: parts for sale

SOMMERVLLE@aol.com wrote:

> ladder bars and mounts for GM A body $75

What are ladder bars?

- -- 
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 14:23:08 +0000
From: MB0 <MB0@americancentury.com>
Subject: Shipping seats

I have located a good pair of bucket seats and need to know if it is
cost effective to have them shipped. I have no idea what shipping a pair
of buckets  from Niagra Falls to Kansas City is, but I assume it isn't
cheap. 

Any advice/suggestions?

Thanks!
Mike Baugher
69 Cutlass S convertible
mb0@americancentury.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 15:29:20 EDT
From: "Norm Baier" <nbaier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 455 fender braces

On a related topic... does anyone know where these braces might be 
available... NOS 

or repro? TIA

Regards,
Norm Baier
1966 442
1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
reply to: nbaier@hotmail.com

- ----Original Message Follows----
From:	Jon442@aol.com
Date:	Mon, 12 Oct 1998 11:26:11 EDT
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 455 fender braces
Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

I am putting a 455 into a '72 Cutlass that had a 350, and was wondering 
if the
fender braces that were used on the 455 cars were necessary, and if I 
should
add them to this car. Anyone have any experience with this?

Thanks,

Jon


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 15:33:04 EDT
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: REF:LADDER BARS QUESTION

Chris, They are the GM version of traction bars, except they are used with
coil spring/4 link suspension systems to prevent wheel hop and to improve
traction. Bolt around the axle housing and directly to the frame. hope that
answers your questions if not look in a summit catalog they sell them. Thanks
Chris

CHRIS SOMMERVILLE
69 442 SC
70 442 HC
70 W31
AND LOTS OF PARTS FOR SALE!!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 15:36:11 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 vs. 425

In a message dated 98-10-06 23:00:24 EDT, you write:

<< I have three 425's that use a 10.5:1 compression ratio without any
consideration.  They run just fine on good, brand name 93 octane pump gas.
Consequently, I am able to infer that higher C.R.'s are within easy grasp
without too much drama.  What were you thinking of?  12:1, 13:1?  The 425 is a
sweet motor.  Peter. >>

Gotta agree.
425 is the original.
Compared to the 455, the 425 is a long-rod, higher comp big block.
(with a few fewer cubes)

I'll let you know when I miss those 30 cubic inches!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 15:35:58 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Transporting Car(s)

In a message dated 98-10-12 05:02:15 EDT, you write:

<< I know I saw a thread months ago about transporting cars. Will any of you
with good and/or bad experiences please e-mail me. I need to get a car from
Colorado  to  Florida. >>

Interesting.
There is a car in .. Boulder??  ((SFM!!)) that is desired in Chicago, and a
car in Peoria that is also desired in Florida.

Mmmm.

An oblique triangle trade?

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 15:35:59 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Need Engine ID

Some Olds list guys write:

<<  It has the following casting numbers on the top rear of the motor
>"CFD 568928". I also got the valve covers they say OLDSMOBILE ROCKET
 chrome ofcourse. and fit the heads which have the casting number "14" and no
 other markings.    Any and all will be a great h*lp!
 > >                                         Neil Anderson
 > 
 > Hmmmmm....sounds like a Pontiac motor to me. I seem to remember seeing a
 > Pontiac engine in a drag car with this number on the heads. 421 maybe?

Two Olds guys thing Pontoon motor.

Karl is pretty sure Olds cyl heads not fit pontiac.
Not know about valve covers.

Karl has suggestion.
NOT a 455!!

A 1960-64 block could have 16 heads!
(Though highest # Karl saw was 8 [on a '64 car])

If there is not a Big Letter cast onto each head, and one on block by oil
filler tube, then definitely not an Olds 455.

Neil, the best course of action is for you to consult the Oldsmobile FAQ at
www.442.com. There is a whole section there about engine ID.

But here is an easy check for a 1965 on Olds engine; distributor is in the
back of the engine and does NOT go through a hole in the intake.

Lotsa info there. Enjoy.

Come to think of it, Karl not recall seeing ROCKET on any aftermarket
valcovers.

If this turns out to be a 371cid motor from the 1950's, Karl could be
interested!
Let me know!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 15:36:09 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Impact wrenches

In a message dated 98-10-11 19:49:03 EDT, you write:

<<  I have a 450ft/lb Ingersol Rand gun  >>

What stores carry these?
Local parts places tend to carry the "Harbor Freight"-grade tools.

Rochester content;

There was an early AND a late carb correct for a 1976 Cutlass Salon with a/c
and AT. As well as a specific Roch for the same in CA.

Three possibilities!

Karl assumes Late, non-CA, option.

17056258 !!!

Apparently, the final digit is not only an indication of performance level,
but a late-model year carb will also get a higher #!!!!

While a CA car can get a # other than 5 in the 2X8 column.

This is starting to make Karl's web site spin........

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 15:36:10 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: 2.14

In a message dated 98-10-07 10:52:06 EDT, you write:

<< Just got the rear cover off and found 2.14 rears in Quincy. Talk about top
end. They should have been capable of 150+mph if the 307 could ever attain it.
No wonder I was only running 1,755 rpm at 70 mph! Got my hands on a 2.92?
(S-10) possi. Should help the get up and go. >>

Karl gots 2.93:1, behind a 2v 425/TH400.

Prolly have more pep w a higher gear.

OTOH for alla yarde-ing lower gear is better.

Go higher when alternate transport (parts hauler) is aquired!

Wheeeeeeeeeeeeeee!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 15:50:20 EDT
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: 200-4R & 700-R4

Both the 200-4R and the 700-R4 have a physical 4th gear.  The lock up is
simple one more feature to help increase fuel economy.

Bill (been hiding in the corners for a while) K
72 442 conv, 454, port injection, Richmond 5speed
H/O Racing suspension, Lot's of other mods

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 15:51:49 EDT
From: WOODY3781@aol.com
Subject: Re: Impact wrenches

Karl,
Have you checked a Harbor Freight catalog lately. They seem to be carrying
additional lines, among them Ingersol Rand.

wood

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 12:58:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Re: Radio Dial Lights

>Been meaning to pull the Delco AM/FM/cassette (from an early 80's LeSabre)
>to change the dial bulb. Finally did it today but it's still in the dark.
>:( At least I found out why. Instead of a normal bulb, these use a pair of
>what I guess are LEDs soldered to a tiny circuit board that is soldered to
>a power wire. It is almost impossible to even test it without unsoldering
>the wire, but I was able to get 12V and ground directly to the LEDs and
>they didn't light up. Seems strange that both would go bad but they are
>dead. Strange design. I'm tempted to try and rig something up using a
>regular auto bulb but it's probably more trouble than it's worth. I could
>take the radio in for service on this but that would probably cost more
>than what I paid for it.
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada



The LEDs being basically  current-operated devices may be wired in series
with a current-limiting resistor.  There are some LEDs with internal
resistors in which case you can wire them directly across 12 volts, I am
not sure which ones the GM uses.

Putting 12 volts directly across an LED without a current limiting resistor
will definately destroy it.

You can test them using a multimeter (I still prefer analog for this test)
by measuring their forward and reverse resistance.  One way should be very
low (plus any internal resistors) and the other way infinite (open).

In-circuit with the power on a good LED will read just over a volt (its
forward voltage) and the supply voltage if it is open.

If I remember correctly, some of these radios use have a bit of "logic"
that controls the lamp basically it is on full during the day so you can
see the pointer in the  sun and uses the IP lamp cirucuit to determine how
much it should dim when the lights are turned on.  Bottom line check both
power circuits going to the radio.

Your local electronics store (try Active) should have a wide assortment of
LEDs if you want to replace them.  They do have a polarity indicated by
either a flat side on the case beside one lead or one lead being longer
than the other (not a lot of use after they have been installed and the
leads trimmed).  I can never remember which lead is maked so I usually end
up hooking up a battery and resistor to verify it.  They can be VERY heat
sensitive so be careful when soldering them and/or use a heat sink (I have
a heomostat(sp) but a clip lead or a pair of long-nosed pliers will work in
a pinch).







Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 12:55:33 -0700
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: REF:LADDER BARS QUESTION

(Chris) SOMMERVLLE@aol.com wrote:
> 
> They are the GM version of traction bars, except they are used with
> coil spring/4 link suspension systems to prevent wheel hop and to improve
> traction. Bolt around the axle housing and directly to the frame. hope that
> answers your questions if not look in a summit catalog they sell them.

Are these similar to what the 442s of the time had on them.  I notice
two
metal housings that are near the wheel.  Maybe they are lower control
arms,
I dunno.

- -- 
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 16:04:42 EDT
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: I bought it !!!!   86 442

In a message dated 10/12/98 12:03:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
rocket409@juno.com writes:

<< Hey Bernie,
 Cool car!  How'd you make out with those doors and fenders?
  >>
I have some nice rust free spares now !!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 16:18:45 EDT
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: REF:LADDER BARS QUESTION

they are in addition to the lower control arms and ar a zig zag back and forth
metal bar with a rod forminc a weird triangle. chris
CHRIS SOMMERVILLE
69 442SC
70 442HC 
70 W31 
AND LOTS OF PARTS FOR SALE!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 16:25:34 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Ok, just one more on the 69 H/O paint...

> Is there an equivalent formula for lacquer paint?
> 
No, not at this time, and no plans are made to do so.  MOST paint shops
and states frown big time on lacquers nowadays.  Besides, it's so EASY
with base/clear...

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 13:46:19 -0700
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Ok, just one more on the 69 H/O paint...

Mike Rothe. wrote:

> No, not at this time, and no plans are made to do so.  MOST paint shops
> and states frown big time on lacquers nowadays.  Besides, it's so EASY
> with base/clear...

What a shame.  I have a way to get lacquer paint shot on my cars.  Can
you
scan a swatch of this color so that I can see what it looks like?

Thanks,

- -- 
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 15:58:09 +0000
From: MB0 <MB0@americancentury.com>
Subject: Wanted: interior parts for a 69 Cutlass

I am trying to locate a pair of black bucket seats, rear seat and rear
door panels from a 69 Cutlass/442 convertible (buckets don't have to be
from convertible) in good condition. I'm aware of the reupholstering
option but would prefer to save some money and find a good used pair. I
have located a good pair in Canada, but shipping looks to be relatively
expensive. I live in the Kansas City area, so anything in the Midwest
would be a consideration, since I wouldn't be apposed to traveling to
get them.

Thanks in advance!
Mike Baugher
mb0@americancentury.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 17:03:15 EDT
From: JCRASH7@aol.com
Subject: Re: Delta 88 saves Pierce Brosnan!

> Just wonder one thing, how do they run with
>  the water at that level.  A little bit of water up the air-cleaner, it
dies.

His truck's air intake went up WAY past the water line-  it was a black hose
of some sort.  They talked about it in the movie a little.

Joe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 15:09:14 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 455 fender braces

Hmm, I put a 455 in my '81 Delta but never put these braces in there.  What
exactly do they do?  Are they a good idea?  Are they heavy?  Igor.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency 98 (307/2004r/propane)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 17:07:27 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: 14" Wheels

I have the original 14" steel wheels with the spinner wire hub caps...they are
in excellent shape!, I have a brand new set of B.F.Goodrich Radial T/A's on
them ( P215/70-14 front  P235/60-14 rear). I think they look great on the car,
and the car can definately put a few car lengths on my Ford Thunderbird
SC...OR my 93 Ford Lightning...both of which have larger/better tires on
them...16's on the bird...275/60-17's on the truck...so lets not talk about
how the tire diameter has an adverse effect on performance...as the asphault
only recognizes the the contact patch of the tire...not the rollout or the
vehicle that it's mounted to....haha...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 17:14:13 EDT
From: JCRASH7@aol.com
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Olds G-body List?

Ok, I'll have to add to this thread.  I know I'd have to subscribe to both
lists because my car has a lot of similarities to the g-bod's.  (ie- 307,
TH200C, etc...)  I've gotten a lot of help and advice from the G-body guys,
and don't really want to split the list up, but if that's the way the wind's
blowin' these days...

Joe
(84 DRB)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 16:30:48 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Impact wrenches

Dave, 
we used them years ago, large and bulky, but worked ok. pulled head bolts
and main cap bolts off with no trouble. 90# lbs.torque on mains.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net


Dave wrote
> From: Dave Cullen <david.cullen@snet.net>
> To: Oldsmobile Questions <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Impact wrenches
> Date: Sunday, October 11, 1998 9:20 AM
> 
> Recent posts have reminded me that I want an impact wrench some day. My
> question is, are the electric ones worth having? My air compressor is too
> small to handle air tools.
> 
> Recommendations?
> 
> drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 16:33:05 -0500
From: steven@purplemonkey.com (Steven Saraceno)
Subject: A/C Dryer

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BDF5FD.FDA7B740
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I replaced my A/C compressor on my 1970 442, past threads recommend =
replacing the evaporator/dryer at the same time.  Why? And is this true.

Steven

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- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BDF5FD.FDA7B740--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 17:32:24 EDT
From: WOODY3781@aol.com
Subject: Holiday

Happy Thanksgiving to all you Canadians, sure don't seem like Thursday!

wood

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 18:36:09 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Radio Dial Lights

Well, I *think* they're LEDs. Strange looking little things... glass tube
at one end, with a little blue-green vinyl cap over them (to change the
color of the light I guess) and a rectangular black plastic base about
1/4" by 1/2" that is attached to the circuit board. I tried putting 12V to
the printed circuit on the board and to one on the LEDs itself. No dice
either way. No evidence of resistors unless they are integral to the base.
Is there any advantage to using LEDs over a regular bulb? These sure seem
like a lot more trouble to use.

The radio is back in the car now so I'm just wondering about cheap
options. It's tempting to just wire up a small bulb. Still wondering if
anyone has encountered this problem. Does anyone know if the radio light
is supposed to be on only when the car's lights are on, only when the
radio is on, or only when both are on?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 12:01:51 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Car Craft - No 14" Rims??

YEAH!  I ran on 215's on 14's for quite a while after I cracked one of my
real wheels.  Oh, it felt so good to return to some decent meats!

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass       
                        Bucks County, PA

On Sun, 11 Oct 1998 23:48:11 EDT StafRT007@aol.com writes:
>You are the first person I have ever heard say that they liked 14" 
>rims, but
>then again I bought you're cutting a et lower than 18 sec.  There's a 
>reason
>nobody runs skinny ass tires.
>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 17:40:42 EDT
From: Monkey2351@aol.com
Subject: Re: 86 442...slight damage

Gerik

In miami and Tallahassee there are a lot of junkyards with that kind of stuff.

Jonathan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 17:47:34 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: finishing a paint job!

I was wondering if any of you Olds freaks could help me with suggestions for
polishing out a slightly orange pealed paint. I just recently painted my 65
Cutlass with Ditzler Delstar Acrylic Enamel (Turquoise Poly/ Black roof). I
have a nice solid coat of paint ( actually two light coats and a full "wet"
coat) with which to work with. I was watching a friend finish his Green 72 C/S
...and he was wet sanding his finish coat with 1000 3M wet or dry paper and
then following up with some kind of 3M product called "Clean Cut" , and his
third step was a 3M Glazing compuond. Is this process the best way to get a
smooth "mirror" like finish...or am I missing something by watching an
amatuer? I have been told by the paint supplier, that I purchased my supplies
from, that I wouldn't need to "rub out" my paint when finished, but it was my
first paint job, and I feel that it could be a little better. I am too cheap (
really, the truth is I enjoy working on the car too much) to pay for someone
else to perform work on my car, so I wind up asking a lot of questions to
friends and 'lists" to help me complete the jobs.

 If anyone can tell their secrets to the list...Im sure we would all
appreciate it...Collyn



'65 Olds (Pony Killer!) Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 17:54:12 EDT
From: Monkey2351@aol.com
Subject: Re: One mans conquest with an Oldsmobile.

I work on the cars with my dad, and I am only 11.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 17:57:45 EDT
From: Monkey2351@aol.com
Subject: Re: Gainsville track

Right now I'm sick, but I go every few weeks. Where do you live? I live in the
summit area. Short Hills, Summit, Watchung, Berkeley Heights, New Providence,
etc.

Monkey

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 18:03:18 EDT
From: Monkey2351@aol.com
Subject: Re: Washer Patterns

Lloyd

are you willing to sell that cutlass.

Monkey

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 18:07:02 EDT
From: Monkey2351@aol.com
Subject: Re: 88 or 98?

Use a copier, enlarge the side view, and try to see what it says.

Monkey

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 18:04:56 EDT
From: Monkey2351@aol.com
Subject: Re: Wanted: 86 442 Rim

Ray

I'll buy your 14" wheels. How much?

Monkey

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 18:08:57 EDT
From: Monkey2351@aol.com
Subject: Re: Washer Patterns

Mike

My 75 Olds washer fluid shoots right over the windshield and hits me. I need
to adjust them.

Monkey

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 15:15:53 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Radio Dial Lights

> If I remember correctly, some of these radios use have a bit of
> "logic" that controls the lamp basically it is on full during the
> day so you can see the pointer in the  sun and uses the IP lamp 
> cirucuit to determine how much it should dim when the lights are 
> turned on.  Bottom line check both power circuits going to the 
> radio.

Oooh! Oooh! (jumping up and down waving both arms) I know! I know!
Those stereo displays can go seriously weird if the power hookups
are wrong. There are as many as three separate power inputs, for
(1) memory and clock maintenance, power at all times; (2) display
and operation, power when ACC or IGN is on; and (3) dimming display
when dash lighting is on. They don't actually use (3) for lighting
the dial; it's just the presence of current on that circuit which
dims the display being powered by _another_ circuit. If (3) goes
out, the display is blazing away at full brightness all the time.
If (1) goes away, it may still operate but forget everything as
soon as it's switched off. If (2) goes away, it acts dead with no
display lighting up (sometimes it will play the radio, though).

Bottom line is: Hook up as much of the wiring harness as you can
before deciding that something's wrong. Having said all that, I
do have an early ETR unit with a fried LED display, but it wasn't
the display itself that burned out, but a big fat resistor that
toasted itself (and fell out the bottom of the chassis :-). If
anyone wants it, raise your hand.

- -- Andy

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 18:15:05 EDT
From: Monkey2351@aol.com
Subject: Re: need info on 350 -74

Check VIN # on car for engine  stuff.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 18:17:56 EDT
From: Monkey2351@aol.com
Subject: Re: B.L.C. Fog Lights

Les

Is there a number on it? If so have someone decode it and it will tell you.

Monkey

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 06:19:57 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: wheel fitment on a g-body

To anyone who knows:  will 255's on a wheel with 4.5 inches of
backspacing fit under the .25 panels of my 87 without sticking out
stupidly?  Thanks y'all!

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass 
Bucks County, PA


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 05:46:26 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Transporting Car(s)

Kyle, I won't go into the story, but when i brought my car home (PA) from
AZ, it cost me two thousand dollars, eight days of work, and one Chevy
Van.

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass       
                        Bucks County, PA

On Mon, 12 Oct 1998 01:37:51 -0400 Kyle Roe <karoe@us.ibm.com> writes:
>I know I saw a thread months ago about transporting cars. Will any of 
>you with
>good and/or bad experiences please e-mail me. I need to get a car from
>Colorado  to  Florida.
>
>Thanks,
>Kyle
>KAROE@US.IBM.COM
>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 05:44:59 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Air tools

On Mon, 12 Oct 1998 00:58:16 -0400 Kyle Roe <karoe@us.ibm.com> writes:
>New compressor indeed. Go to Walmart for your airtools, hose and such.
>                                                       /\
                                                          ||
                                                      what the...?

Go to Walmart for nothing!

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass       
                        Bucks County, PA


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Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 06:10:39 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Shipping seats

Mike,
Finding GOOD buckets is a real pain in the as%, so just "suck it up" and
pay the cash to get them.  You are envied.

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass       
                        Bucks County, PA

On Mon, 12 Oct 1998 14:23:08 +0000 MB0 <MB0@americancentury.com> writes:
>I have located a good pair of bucket seats and need to know if it is
>cost effective to have them shipped. I have no idea what shipping a 
>pair
>of buckets  from Niagra Falls to Kansas City is, but I assume it isn't
>cheap. 
>
>Any advice/suggestions?
>
>Thanks!
>Mike Baugher
>69 Cutlass S convertible
>mb0@americancentury.com
>

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Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 06:08:39 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Car Craft - No 14" Rims??

My 235 60R15's give me virtually no traction when I demand the most from
them.  I'm going to step up to 255's, after I am certain they will fit
with the wheels I want...

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass       
                        Bucks County, PA

>
>That's right...I don't have super skinny tires, but I also don't run 
>14" wide tires either...I have 
>225/60R14's and they work great for my application.  I'm sure they'd 
>be able to hold up to many of 
>the power setups that Car Craft specifically listed.
>
>Jason Adcock
>Blacksburg, VA
>ICQ: 5860857
>E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
>Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org
>
>

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Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 06:03:27 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: ADMIN: PLEASE READ re. Reducing Traffic

Greg,

If the purpose of reducing traffic is to give chebucto a break or
whatever, then that's fine, do what's necessary.  But if it's just to
give us a break sorting through mail, then naw.  That's why we have
subject lines!  Adding to others' responses or correcting or being
corrected can be quite beneficial.  A discussion consists of many people,
not just two.

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass       
                        Bucks County, PA

On Mon, 12 Oct 1998 11:57:27 -0300 (ADT) Greg Beaulieu
<ab348@chebucto.ns.ca> writes:
>
>I have been thinking about the suggestion made by Andy G. (also raised 
>a
>while back by Drew Senko and others) to change the list setup to 
>default
>the reply-to action back to the original sender, rather than the list
>overall. You could still reply to the list, but it would take one mre 
>step
>on your part to do it.
>
>I have the config file set up to do this but haven't yet put it into
>effect. I was originally opposed to this, but am starting to think it 
>is
>becoming necessary. I'd be interested in hearing the views of anyone 
>with
>an opinion -- privately please. :)
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, 
>Canada
>
>
>

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Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 15:23:25 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Radio Dial Lights

> Well, I *think* they're LEDs. Strange looking little things...
> glass tube at one end, with a little blue-green vinyl cap over
> them (to change the color of the light I guess) and a rectangular
> black plastic base about 1/4" by 1/2"

Ooops. Those sound like grain-of-wheat bulbs. LEDs (1) don't need
vinyl color caps (they're molded in color) and (2) aren't glass.
I have an aftermarket stereo with those same bulbs. They really
are bulbs. Changing those will be a pain. First you have to find
new ones.

> Still wondering if anyone has encountered this problem.

When you describe it like that, yes.

> Does anyone know if the radio light is supposed to be on only
> when the car's lights are on, only when the radio is on, or only 
> when both are on?

Factory stereos light only with the dash backlighting on, without
regard to whether the stereo is on. (I'm talking here about the
old analog sliding-pointer-on-a-dial designs.)

- -- Andy

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Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 18:27:14 EDT
From: WOODY3781@aol.com
Subject: Re: Transporting Car(s)

Ray,
That was no story, it was a mini-series!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 15:41:44 -0700
From: "Mike Jones" <mike@gleep.com>
Subject: Valley tray?

Saw a '67 Cutlass with a 330 in the yard today (don't ask about body parts,
nice primer and bondo on them though) and I saw this weird tray in the
valley between the heads.  Grabbed it, sans mounting bolts.  What other SB
motors would this fit?  
 
The interior along with the exterior was shot.  ripped headliner, no
package tray cover, no rear seat, nice rust holes.  Did have an incomplete
dash (still had speedo and idiot lights) and the dash emblem.  Also had the
two vanity lights in the rear panels.  Grabbed them plus the wiring
harness.
 
Mike Jones
'78 Delta 88 (350/TH350)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 15:39:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Olds G-body List?

- ---Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca> wrote:

  Those of you who have been here for a while will recall many
discussions about splitting up the list, to which I have usually been
unenthusiastic. I am starting to think given the nature of discussions
of late that it may be time for something to change, though, and my
first thought is that maybe a separate G-body list would be the most
useful way to go. As I've said before, the original purpose of this
list was to discuss older models, say up to the late seventies or so.
I confess that era is still where my interest lies, and that is the
type of list I would prefer to run if I had a choice. 
  Please, no offense intended to any of the G-body enthusiasts here.
You'll always be welcomed. But it does seem that more and more of the
posts deal with that topic, and from a very personal point of view,
I'm getting less and less out of it. Now that it appears there is an
option for anyone so inclined to set up a G-body list, maybe it's time
for that to happen, which is why I mentioned the listbot service.  
    I would be interested in any other opinions on this. Thoughts? 


- ----I enjoy the list the way it is, with minor exceptions....any of
which could be solved with a little more care from us all . If we
split the list,  fine...I'll just subscribe to 2 lists then. I've been
able to gather alot of input from list members ~REGARDLESS~ of what
year their Olds is. I must admit your point however that sometimes it
just seems like nothing is there of interest to me....then the list
kicks in and lo-and-behold....something I need. While sometimes I feel
like we go from one week being all A-body, the next all G-body,and so
forth (not meaning to leave anyone out), but it all equals out in the
end. I've had cars from~all~years....(68,69,70,73,82 ,84,85), and I've
loved everyone of them. 
   just my thoughts,
==
John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com  
  ICQ # 16956740      Lithia Springs, Ga.
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442 
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts    
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Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 15:44:49 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Washer Patterns

>Is this normal or do I have a problem with the nozzles?

No, it's normal; that's all the old squirters did, believe
it or not, right through the '70's. When one side got clogged,
the other developed enough pressure to fire the water clear
over the roof.  :-)

Regards,
Andy

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Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 16:53:52 -0600
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: RE: Shipping seats

> Mike,
> Finding GOOD buckets is a real pain in the as%, so just "suck it up" and
> pay the cash to get them.  You are envied.
>
> Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass

Mike,

Here's my advice:  "Good" bucket seats are only worth about $50 - $75 each.
"Excellent" bucket seats are worth maybe $100 - $150 each.  Shipping is
going to cost a lot, because they weigh about 50 lbs each, and they are
oversized (I could be a little off on my weight estimates, but they are darn
heavy).  Good condition, to me, means that they are useable, but they either
have or will have with any use, tears in the cover and/or worn cushions or
broken/ready-to-break springs.  You'll pay more, especially with shipping,
in the long run restoring these seats.  You'd be better off getting "poor"
seats in a junkyard and redoing them.  "Excellent" seats, to me, means that
they came out of a low-miles car or have been restored.  They would have to
have excellent springs, cushions, & covers.  IMHO, only "excellent" buckets
are worth the cost of shipping.  There are still plenty of buckets in
Junkyards.  Find some that don't have broken springs, and hopefully that
don't have rotten or torn foam.  The seat covers, even on "excellent" seats
are bound to  split after sitting on them for a few months, so you might as
well replace them anyway.  You should be able to get a set of decent buckets
at a junkyard for $50 or less.  This all comes from my experience.  I bought
a pair of what appeared to be "excellent" seats for $200.  Within weeks, the
springs started squeeking, the driver's side cushion spring broke, one of
the retaining straps broke, and the seams started splitting.  The driver's
seat is now worth half what I paid for it, and I'll have to put new springs
in and a new seat cover.  I'd have been better off to buy a less appealing
"good" seat for $50 and put a new cushion and cover on it. The moral of the
story is, "Buy junk seats locally for less, and don't pay to have good seats
shipped -- unless you're paying like $25 for them -- because you'll just
have to repair them anyway."

OK, I'm done.

Blaine

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1548
*********************************

