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cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1561


oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, October 20 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1561



Re: Driveline question???
Re: electric fuel pumps
Vaccuum Diagrams
Re: Vaccuum Diagrams
1950 Olds 88
replacement for jetaway
Date:	Mon, 19 Oct 1998 23:32:35 -0400
Re: ignition timing problems
Mileage on 75 Cutlass
Re: Engine for sale
Re: replacement for jetaway
Re: New member/ 455 rebuild / parts request
Re: replacement for jetaway
73 - 77 Cutlass & H/O
Fwd: 1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
1.7 ratio rockers
Re: New member/ 455 rebuild / parts request
Dynamic 88 interior
engine build
Edelbrock Torker
Re: FOR SALE 1985 CUTLASS 442
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1559
Re: Carpet Installation
Re: 73 - 77 Cutlass & H/O
Re: 1.7 ratio rockers
Re: 73 - 77 Cutlass & H/O
1971 W-30 intake/carb/f.wells
Re: 73 - 77 Cutlass & H/O
Posting vs. Replying (Was Re: NON-OLDS: Read this if you dare!)
New addition to the Olds Family
Re: engine build
Re: New addition to the Olds Family
Re: New addition to the Olds Family
Sound Deadener:Rubber or Tar?
1985 442 FOR SALE
Re: engine build
Re: engine build
Re: Sound Deadener:Rubber or Tar?
gasoline prices was: engine build
Re: engine build
What color for my 66 Starfire Bucket Seat backs?
Re: 73 - 77 Cutlass & H/O
Cars
Re: 73 - 77 Cutlass & H/O
1985 442
Re: New member/ 455 rebuild / parts request
Re:head gasket thickness
Re: New addition to the Olds Family
Re: gasoline prices was: engine build
Re: gasoline prices was: engine build
Re: gasoline prices was: engine build
Camshaft Amplifiers (was 1.7 ratio rockers)
Re: engine build
Re: gasoline prices was: engine build
oldsmagnet II ?
Re: oldsmagnet II ?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 22:59:27 -0400
From: "Jim & Joanne Chermack" <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Driveline question???

Corey

    Yes they will all work.

Jim Chermack

- -----Original Message-----
From: Corey Day <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, October 19, 1998 9:35 PM
Subject: Driveline question???


>I have obtained a TH400 to replace my tired TH350 and was not able to get
>the yoke.  Does anyone know if all the BOP (Cadillac) ones are
>interchangeable??????????
>
>
>Corey Day
>1970 Cutlass S - 455
>dayc@ix.netcom.com
>www.netcom.com/~dayc/
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 23:11:02 EDT
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: electric fuel pumps

In a message dated 10/19/98 6:50:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
lbiggs@intertek.net writes:

<< Hi list.  I'd like to hear opinions about electric fuel pumps.  I've 
 > used Holley (not good) and Carter ones in the past.  I liked the Carter,
 > but I'm wondering if anyone knows of a truly quiet pump.  Thanks...
 >  >>
how about getting one for a injected buick grand national?  those should be
pretty quiet.  i know there is some kinda thing that makes the pump quiet and
if you dont use it the pump will make all kinds of noise.	
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 22:22:20 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Vaccuum Diagrams

Does anyone have any kind of detailed vacuum diagrams for my '84 Olds 307?
I have put the motor all back together and it DOES RUN...but I've got one
vacuum hose plugged with tape, one off the air cleaner leading nowhere, and
the car did some REALLY weird stuff today...like run with a LOT of noise,
in PARK, after being driven quite a bit around town with NO PROBLEMS TO
SPEAK OF - it also dieseled a bit after I killed it with the intention of
starting it again and seeing if the problem repeated itself.

How 'bouts it gang?  The diagram on the fan shroud sucks (good call Igor!),
the one in Chilton's is indecipherable (almost the same diagram as the
shroud's).  I _know_ I should have bought GM manuals, so please don't offer
that as a suggestion...cash is being kind of scarce here at present.

Thanks,
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 23:17:50 -0400
From: "Michele Brown" <someone@dclink.com>
Subject: Re: Vaccuum Diagrams

I don't have your diagrams, but I would recommend tyin the ends off with
golf tees, quick, easy, and they plug real well.
- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Someone <Someone>
Date: Tuesday, October 20, 1998 12:13 AM
Subject: Vaccuum Diagrams



Does anyone have any kind of detailed vacuum diagrams for my '84 Olds 307?
I have put the motor all back together and it DOES RUN...but I've got one
vacuum hose plugged with tape, one off the air cleaner leading nowhere, and
the car did some REALLY weird stuff today...like run with a LOT of noise,
in PARK, after being driven quite a bit around town with NO PROBLEMS TO
SPEAK OF - it also dieseled a bit after I killed it with the intention of
starting it again and seeing if the problem repeated itself.

How 'bouts it gang?  The diagram on the fan shroud sucks (good call Igor!),
the one in Chilton's is indecipherable (almost the same diagram as the
shroud's).  I _know_ I should have bought GM manuals, so please don't offer
that as a suggestion...cash is being kind of scarce here at present.

Thanks,
- -------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722 Home : (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
1984 Oldsmobile (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
Delta 88 Pager: (512) 483-8056
  4-door (713) 318-5938
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 22:19:46 -0500
From: Donna Swope <dswope@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: 1950 Olds 88

I am looking for pictures of the 1950 Olds 88 on the internet -- does
anyone have any suggestions?    Also, can anyone tell me if the '50 Olds
88 had a trunk handle?  or just open with a key?   where are parts
available for restoration projects?  Thanks!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 23:36:18 -0400
From: Toby Blom <floridarealtor@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: replacement for jetaway

Does anybody know if I can replace my jetaway tranny with a TH350 or
TH400 without altering the driveshaft or tranny crossmember? 
1966 F85, 330 engine

Thanks

Toby

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 23:32:35 -0400
From: "Steve C" <cutlass@citlink.net>
Subject: Date:	Mon, 19 Oct 1998 23:32:35 -0400

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 23:39:43 +0000
From: "Joe Gerschutz" <gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu>
Subject: Re: ignition timing problems

What do you mean by having the computer completely out of the system? 
As in physically removing some chip or something?  I am not familiar 
with the computer system on these cars.  Back to my original 
question, since the computer is not affecting the ignition in any 
way, is it normal for my to be able to turn my distributor 10-15 
degrees with minimal changes in idle speed?  I also don't think I 
have vacuum advance hooked up right, so I don't know if that affects 
it or not. 	
	On a side note, is it necessary to have the PCV valve 
securely seated in the passenger valve cover?  Will I lose vacuum 
here? Would this cause a poor idle (especially while cold)?  How 
about MAP sensor?  charcoal canister hook-up? vacuum leak?  Would any 
of these cause poor idle, especially when cold?  	
	Thanks in advance.

Joe 
82 CSC w/ 77 350


>Joe,
>No, you hooked it up right.  The battery lead should go to the 
>battery input you fire up the coil.  The solid state inginition 
>doesn't care about a computer.  No need to change modules.  All the 
>computer does is unnecessary stuff.  Do you have the computer 
>completely out of the system now?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 21:11:10 PDT
From: "Eric Aksomitis" <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Mileage on 75 Cutlass

I'm trying to guess why my 75 350 Cutlass supreme is down from 21 MPIG 
to 16 MPIG

I bought the car and started driving it in mid-summer (basic wheels car, 
very good transportation), and it got 21 MPIG!  Then, it slowly over 
1,000 miles sank to about 16 MPIG, where it's sat betweeen 15 and 17 
since.  It runs OK, 4-barrels open only on hard acceleration.  Choke 
sticks a little bit when cold, but goes away right away.  I've tried 
carb-cleaner, new plugs, air cleaner, etc..  The distributor is tight, 
so I doubt the timings out.  What I'd like to guess is: The car sat for 
a while, then all my nice, fresh clean gas flushed out some gunkies in 
the carb, and although it runs fine, its putting more fuel in then I 
really want??  Is there any other obvious stuff to check before I invest 
in a carb rebuild / tuneup (I don't touch car carbs, too scared to, 
although I should learn, rebuilding them is a fast-dying art, and the 
cars there on are not!)  BTW, exhaust-warm air breather is fully 
functional..

Normally I wouldn't care too much on milage, but it used to get OK, and 
now doesn't, plus I use it for an everyday motion machine!

On a funny note, I paid almost nothing for it, but the door was gushed, 
now see what a fine job I did to fix it!

http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/formymom/look_what_youv_won.jpg

IF the car stays running good, it'll one day again look respectable!

At least the oil's clean

Eric

http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/



______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 23:46:59 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Engine for sale

Found this on the net, just thought I would pass it along. I like the fact
it is an Olds motor with Chevy heads :-)
_______

Uh, Jason, that's an Olds DRCE (as in, Warren Johnson Pro Stock), which is
basically a big block Chebby in a unique Olds block casting.  Some
aftermarket Chevy heads bolt up, as will, of course, the Olds DRCE heads.
Nothing in common with the Olds motors we all know and love, though it _is_
a sweet motor.  Love to have one on the street.  That block can go up to
650 cubic inches, almost enough for even someone like me.  ;-)

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 21:10:49 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: replacement for jetaway

At 11:36 PM 10/19/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Does anybody know if I can replace my jetaway tranny with a TH350 or
>TH400 without altering the driveshaft or tranny crossmember? 
>1966 F85, 330 engine
>

The TH350 will bolt in using the same driveshaft and crossmember.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 00:10:01 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: New member/ 455 rebuild / parts request

Brian,

My suggestions on the 455 rebuild:

Most aftermarket pistons for big block Olds motors carry a compression
rating based on a 72 cc combustion chamber and a thin, OEM style head
gasket.  Most big block heads run combustion chambers closer to 80 cc, and
as you've pointed out, the aftermarket head gaskets run thicker than stock.
Taken together, these effects tend to drop the compression ratio about a
point from the advertised rating.  A 10.5:1 piston will really yield about
9.5:1 as installed, if you don't mill the heads or use thin gaskets.
Obviously this is a generality, and you should run the numbers with actual
measurements on your specific parts if you want to hit a certain
compression ratio precisely, however I've found that just assembling this
combo is more than adequate for a street-driven motor (I'm doing just that
right now).

Since you're changing the pistons, I strongly recommend balancing the
reciprocating components.  Use forged pistons.

When you have the block bored, try to find a shop that has a torque plate
for an Olds motor (but don't be surprised if you can't find one).  A torque
plate is a thick (about 2") chunk of cast iron which is intended to look
like a cylinder head with holes where the cylinders are.  This plate is
bolted to the block and torqued prior to boring the block to mimic the
distortions in the cylinder walls when the real heads are installed.  This
ensures that the cylinders will be as close to round as possible in the
assembled motor.  Again, this is not mandatory, and I'll be surprised if
you can find a shop with such a plate for an Olds.

Do a good job of deburring the block, paying particular attention to
eliminating stress risers.  In addition (since this is what I  was doing
earlier this evening), enlarge and clean up the four oil drain back holes
at the top corners of the valley.  These pass through the deck surface and
connect with the drain back holes in the lower corners of the heads.  I
found that the ones in my block were close to half their intended diameter
due to mismatches in the drilled holes.

Block cleanliness cannot be stressed enough.  Clean the block and
components thoroughly before assembly.

Use a high volume oil pump and a Toro pan if you can find one.  Get a heavy
duty oil pump drive shaft from Chris Witt. (US$10)

Cam technology has come a long way since the 70s.  Due to the poor exhaust
ports on Olds motors, dual pattern cams are preferred.  I suspect that
Mondello has some of the best.  I'd call his shop for a recommendation with
your particular setup.  I selected the 20-22 for my 69 442 (455 with stock
converter and A/C), probably on the conservative side for me, but this will
be a driver.  Use a roller timing chain.

The heads will provide the greatest performance improvement; if you can at
all afford it, get the heads ported.  At a minimum go with the big valves.

I'll always use a two plane intake for the street, either the original or a
Performer.  Stay away from the Torker or other single plane units (despite
what Car Craft says).

I'm also a big fan of headers (unlike others on the list), but I suspect
that W and Z manifolds will come close without the hassles.

Use an HEI if it fits, or a stock distributor with an electronic conversion
if it doesn't.

I'll take a properly set-up Q-jet over a Holley any day, with a Carter as
second choice.

Just my opinions, and I'm sure you'll get others.  Welcome to the list and
good luck with your project.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 00:23:25 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: replacement for jetaway

Does anybody know if I can replace my jetaway tranny with a TH350 or
TH400 without altering the driveshaft or tranny crossmember?
1966 F85, 330 engine

Thanks

Toby
_________

Toby,

The TH350 bolts in like it grew there.  No mods are required to the
driveshaft, and at the most you might need to do some minor grinding on the
crossmember.  The only disadvantage is that you won't be able to drop the
tranny pan to change the oil without unbolting the transmission from the
crossmember and jacking it up.

A couple of other items:

Your stock two-speed shifter will bolt up, but you'll likely only be able
to access third and second manually; first will probably not be available
(though this sometimes depends on production tolerances and how worn the
shifter is).

The TH350 is set up for a cable kickdown.   Various installations of this
trans have actuated the cable with the gas pedal or with a connection to
the carb linkage itself.  Your stock linkage is not set up to accommodate
this, so you can either simply not use the kickdown (you'll need to shift
from third to second manually when passing, for example), or the preferred
method is to adapt a bracket from a later Olds to connect the cable to the
carb's throttle lever.

Some minor bending of the tranny cooler lines may be required.

That's it.  I've done this swap on a 68 F-85, and it works great.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 01:38:42 EDT
From: Joeytada@aol.com
Subject: 73 - 77 Cutlass & H/O

How many people have 73 - 77 cutlass's and H/O's?  I'm trying to compile a
list of the 70's guys. Maybe even startup a seperate list for them.  Let me
know if this sounds good to anyone. 

Keith

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 00:45:28 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Fwd: 1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

Can anyone on the list help this guy out - 

>X-From_: jearly1@nycap.rr.com Mon Oct 19 20:08:54 1998
>Reply-To: <jearly1@nycap.rr.com>
>From: "James Early" <jearly1@nycap.rr.com>
>To: <lisa@hotglass.com>
>Cc: <kat@water.ny>
>Subject: 1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
>Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 23:01:42 -0400
>X-Mailer: Microsoft Internet Mail 4.70.1161
>
>I am very interested in finishing a restoration of a 1978 Cutlass Supreme
>coupe. I am having trouble finding chrome bumpers, fiberglass front end
>w/grilles, and other odds and end trim pieces.I love the car and I would
>like to see it in its original condition. Please help me find some info on
>parts. Thank You....OH by the way my name is Mark and I live in upstate NY.
>thanks again!!!!!



Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible,  '72
Vista Cruiser, '80 GMC 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 00:56:28 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: 1.7 ratio rockers

Okay, I don't belive that nobody knows if there are olds 1.7 ratio rockers.
So, I will ask again.  As far as I know, olds has 1.6 ratio rockers.  I
guess the logical step-up would be the 1.7s.  Are they available and are
they cheap.  Also, what does the increased ratio do.  Please explain this to
me as I have always wondered what more ratio would do.  Thanks a LOT.  Igor.

Igor Todorovic, UofC, Calgary, Alberta

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23 posi)
1981 Regency 98 (307/2004r/propane)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)

igor455@home.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 22:31:58 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: New member/ 455 rebuild / parts request

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Brian,

I used Federal Mongol (or Speed-Pro, can't remember) 10:1 CR. pistons, =
which with a Fel-Pro gasket and depending on your casting head (mine are =
J-s) do about 9.45-9.65 CR..  I can run no problem or pinging with Petro =
Canada or Shell gas.  The best I found to be Mohawk (here in Alberta) as =
their supreme is 94 octane.  If I were you, this is what I would do.  As =
far as stock valvetrain, your duration can be anything streetable, so =
286/287 should be just fine.  As far as lift goes, no more then .500 =
with stock valvetrain as you may run into problems.  The cam I have is =
Speed Pro 272-280AD with .448/.472 lift.  Great low end torque, idle, =
smoothness.  You could not tell it is not a stock cam.  However, I feel =
it is too small for my engine.  I would go with one step up, 280-290 AD, =
.472/.496 lift or so.  Planing to do it in the spring.  I think that the =
thinner gaskets may have been more prone to blow with higher =
compression, but like you said knew of no problem.  Igor.

Igor Todorovic, UofC, Calgary, Alberta

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23 posi)
1981 Regency 98 (307/2004r/propane)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)

igor455@home.com

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<HTML>
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HTML//EN">
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Brian,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I used Federal Mongol (or Speed-Pro, can't remember) =
10:1 CR.=20
pistons, which with a Fel-Pro gasket and depending on your casting head =
(mine=20
are J-s) do about 9.45-9.65 CR..&nbsp; I can run no problem or pinging =
with=20
Petro Canada or Shell gas.&nbsp; The best I found to be Mohawk (here in =
Alberta)=20
as their supreme is 94 octane.&nbsp; If I were you, this is what I would =

do.&nbsp; As far as stock valvetrain, your duration can be anything =
streetable,=20
so 286/287 should be just fine.&nbsp; As far as lift goes, no more then =
.500=20
with stock valvetrain as you may run into problems.&nbsp; The cam I have =
is=20
Speed Pro 272-280AD with .448/.472 lift.&nbsp; Great low end torque, =
idle,=20
smoothness.&nbsp; You could not tell it is not a stock cam.&nbsp; =
However, I=20
feel it is too small for my engine.&nbsp; I would go with one step up, =
280-290=20
AD, .472/.496 lift or so.&nbsp; Planing to do it in the spring.&nbsp; I =
think=20
that the thinner gaskets may have been more prone to blow with higher=20
compression, but like you said knew of no problem.&nbsp; =
Igor.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Igor Todorovic, UofC, Calgary, Alberta<BR><BR>1981 =
Delta 88=20
4dr (455/th400/3.23 posi)<BR>1981 Regency 98 (307/2004r/propane)<BR>1981 =
Dodge=20
MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)<BR><BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:igor455@home.com">igor455@home.com</A></FONT></DIV></BODY>=
</HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 01:41:52 PDT
From: "Jukka Kujala" <oldsmo88@hotmail.com>
Subject: Dynamic 88 interior

Hello everybody,

I have problem with my restoring project. Former owner destroyed the 
orginal door panels from my dynamic 88 1963. I would glad if anyone in 
list have pics of their 1963 oldses and their interiors. So, if any of 
you have a pic of your 1963 olds doorpanel that would be great help for 
me.

Jukka

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 07:18:35 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: engine build

I have a friend who has a 69 cutlas, 350 with powerglide. I gave him a
ride in my 68 and now he has to have a big block.I have tryed to talk
him out of it but he wants it still. Keep in mind that my 442 is a 11
second car and a lot of work to get it there. How do I convince him
about hot starts,  traction, gears,cams, converters and such. Has
anybody on the list been down this road? If so could you please respond
so I can print it out and may be give him an idea of what he is getting
into.    Thanks   Butch  68  442  post

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 07:29:39 -0500
From: wayne_drusch@co.harris.tx.us
Subject: Edelbrock Torker

> Subject: Edelbrock Torker
> Date: Sunday, October 18, 1998 10:59 PM
> 
> Is anyone running the Torker intake on a relatively mild 455? I am
> particularly interested in what effect the manifold had on the
low-end.
> On my 350 - I installed a Performer RPM and I felt that it took quite
a
> bit from me on the low end. I am wondering if the 455 has enough
low-end
> that the Torker will not greatly effect low-speed derivability. 

The Torker is a single plane manifold designed to provide power and flow
at high rpm. Any mild street engine needs good tork at lower rpm for
quick response. A mild street cam will give you the most tork from 1500
to 4500 rpm. The Torker needs a cam that gives you tork from 2500 to
6000 rpm. You would be better off with the stock dual plane manifold
over a Torker for a street engine. A Performer will be some improvement
over stock but not enough to justify spending $200 unless you just like
the looks. Swap meets are a good place to pick up a used manifold for a
good savings.

E. Wayne Drusch
71 Cutlass Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 08:47:01 -0400
From: "Frank Montero" <parc@erols.com>
Subject: Re: FOR SALE 1985 CUTLASS 442

O.K the car has no rust what so ever. No bondo, it's never been in a wreck.
When is say mint, I mean mint, nothing absolutly nothing wrong with this
car. It looks the same way it looked in '85. It's white with gray bottom +
blue interior. It has T-tops + power everything.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Rothe. <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, October 19, 1998 5:21 PM
Subject: Re: FOR SALE 1985 CUTLASS 442


>Frank Montero wrote:
>>
>> MUST SELL
>> 1985 Cutlass 442 in mint condition. Going into the service need to sell
>> immediately
>
>
>Ok Frank, in your own words....describe "mint" for the good folks on
>this list.  We need a little more info than that.  Mint to me may be
>something COMPLETELY different than someone else's definition.  Mileage,
>rust, bondo, color, etc.
>
>Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 07:57:31 +0000
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs@flash.net>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1559

Does anyone have any information or parts from the full size air bag
equipped Oldsmobiles from 74-76?  Will consider parts cars.

Bob

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 08:07:23 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: Carpet Installation

>Do I glue the carpet down the sound deadener?
Nope, The carpet is held down by the sill plates, seats (depending on
vehicle), console, and anything else that goes on top of the carpet.  This is
assuming you are using a quality reproduction molded carpet set.  DO NOT trim
off any excess carpet until you are sure you have it in the proper position
and that you must trim some off.  I have used carpets from Auto Custom Carpets
and have found that they usually only require minimal trimming on the sill
area.

>Do I duct tape the deadener to the floor pans?
Use some 3M weatherstrip adhesive, yellow or black.  Duct tape could hold
moisture if the carpet got wet.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 21:56:04 -0400
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: 73 - 77 Cutlass & H/O

Me! 75 Cutlass Salon 455

- -----Original Message-----

>How many people have 73 - 77 cutlass's and H/O's?  I'm trying to compile a
>list of the 70's guys. Maybe even startup a seperate list for them.  Let me
>know if this sounds good to anyone.
>
>Keith
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 21:58:51 -0400
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: 1.7 ratio rockers

As I understand it, aftemarket roller rockers for Ford small blocks fit Olds
motors with studs. The Competition Cams part number is even the same. They
are 1.6 ratio. Whether 1.7 Ford rocker will work or not . . . I don't know.
But I would sure like to.

- -----Original Message-----

>Okay, I don't belive that nobody knows if there are olds 1.7 ratio rockers.
>So, I will ask again.  As far as I know, olds has 1.6 ratio rockers.  I
>guess the logical step-up would be the 1.7s.  Are they available and are
>they cheap.  Also, what does the increased ratio do.  Please explain this
to
>me as I have always wondered what more ratio would do.  Thanks a LOT.
Igor.
>
>Igor Todorovic, UofC, Calgary, Alberta
>
>1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23 posi)
>1981 Regency 98 (307/2004r/propane)
>1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)
>
>igor455@home.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 10:10:30 EDT
From: DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73 - 77 Cutlass & H/O

i have a 74 Hurst/Olds Black W-30, a 75 Hurst/Olds White W-30 and a 75
Hurst/Olds Black W-25 and a club with about 200 members with the same
interest,, Thanks Jeffrey Fieldsend
Board of Director OCC- Oldsmobile Cutlass Coupes 73-77
http://members.aol.com/cutlascoup/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 10:23:28 -0400
From: Andy Mayer <mayer@ttc.kodak.com>
Subject: 1971 W-30 intake/carb/f.wells

	1971 Oldsmobile 442 W-30 parts:  $1200.00/BO  for intake, carb (new), 
and wells, plus W-30 stripping blueprint and 2 W-30 NOS fender emblems 
(metal).  I don't want or need these items hanging around.   

Items can be viewed at:   http://www2.rpa.net/~jrussell/sell.html

Andy Mayer

	Work e-mail:  mayer@ttc.kodak.com
	Home e-mail:  jrussell@rpa.net
	Work phone:  (716) 726-2544 
	Home phone: (716) 464-8932

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 10:31:57 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: 73 - 77 Cutlass & H/O

Joeytada@aol.com wrote:
> 
> How many people have 73 - 77 cutlass's and H/O's?  I'm trying to compile a
> list of the 70's guys. Maybe even startup a seperate list for them.  Let me
> know if this sounds good to anyone.
> 
> Keith

I do. My '73 Cutlass Supreme. I also have a '75 Cutlass 'S' but it's
just a mangy old parts car, nothing important.

- -- 
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 07:25:20 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Posting vs. Replying (Was Re: NON-OLDS: Read this if you dare!)

> The people that understand how to use their e-mail would be
> empowered to send to the list when they feel that the message
> is of general benefit.  Newbies would probably end up doing
> individual replies until they got the hang of it.  This is not
> a bad trade-off.

This is the heart of the matter, something I have been tap-dancing
around: People are on this list because they enjoy Oldsmobiles, not
because they enjoy mailing lists, and they are here to learn about
Oldsmobiles, not to learn about mailing lists. We will have much
better success adapting the mailing list function to serve us, rather
than trying to get all umpty-hundred subscribers to conform to the
mailing list and stop drowning us in unnecessary list-wide followups.

> In summary, this proposal does not take away anyone's ability to
> send messages to the entire list.  It merely sets the reply-to
> address to the individual author, with group replies still going
> to the list.

Right. And once the subscriber learns how to post to the entire list
instead of just replying to the original writer, he or she most likely
will also grasp the difference between the two.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 10:54:31 -0400
From: Brian Kerr <bkerr@golden.net>
Subject: New addition to the Olds Family

Picked up another Olds yesterday - 1986 4dr Olds Cutlass Supreme. It has
been in storage for 2 years, it needs the brakes resurfaced, an exhaust
pipe, a headlight, a paint job and a good interior cleaning. 137,000 km.
New tires, no holes in the body. Drove it home from the sellers house
with the exhaust exiting from the cat and windows open on both sides of
the car. I figure that I'll have it saftied and on the road by the
weekend for a total cash outlay of about $700 (Canadian) $500 purchase
price, $200 in headlight, exhaust pipe, and brakes. This is to be a
replacement for my wifes dying '76 Plymouth Caravelle
Any suggestions on paint colors that would go good with a light green
interior. It is a pale metalic green, and it is not staying that color!

Brian Kerr
69 Cutlass S conv (455)
86 Cutlass Supreme (4dr)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 11:01:56 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: engine build

I have a friend who has a 69 cutlas, 350 with powerglide. I gave him a
ride in my 68 and now he has to have a big block.I have tryed to talk
him out of it...
_________

You're looking for a reason _not_ to install a big block?  Don't expect to
get that from _me_!  ;-)

I'm not sure why you're hesitant here.  A stock 455 should put out close to
400 HP and 500 ft-lb of torque, with no hot start or overheating problems,
so long as you don't get crazy on the motor.  Sure, this isn't an 11 sec
motor, but it'll turn high 13s easily.  I say do it.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 08:08:38 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: New addition to the Olds Family

> Any suggestions on paint colors that would go good with a light
> green interior. It is a pale metalic green, and it is not staying
> that color!

From your description of the rest of the car, it sounds like the
paint would be pretty bleached out and oxidized. Have you tried
buffing it out first to see how good it can look?

If it still looks atrocious after buffing out a test area, I'd
go with a nice deep green metallic. I always thought that looked
pretty classy...

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 23:11:09 -0400
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: New addition to the Olds Family

Uhhh . . . dark green?

- -----Original Message-----

>Any suggestions on paint colors that would go good with a light green
>interior. It is a pale metalic green, and it is not staying that color!
>
>Brian Kerr
>69 Cutlass S conv (455)
>86 Cutlass Supreme (4dr)
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 10:14:35 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Sound Deadener:Rubber or Tar?

I am changing the interior carpet on my 72 442. I was wondering should I
use the "original" tar paper underneath the carpet? Or just use the rubber
sound deadener that some companies sell? Which is better in overall sound
reducing?

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 11:17:57 -0400
From: "Frank Montero" <parc@erols.com>
Subject: 1985 442 FOR SALE

HELLO,

    To all you OLDSMOBILE enthusiasts.

    Great news for everyone.
    I am selling a 1985 Cutlass 442. The car is white with Grey bottom. It
has a blue interior and T-tops. The car is in mint condition. The car has no
rust, no bondo, never been in an accident. It looks the same way it did in
'85. I am located in Suffolk county New York. I am selling because I'm going
into the service. I already have another car I will be using.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 23:17:43 -0400
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: engine build

The crowd applauds! Here, here, there's no replacement for displacement.
More power (ugh,ugh), insignificant weight gain, slight mileage reduction,
gasoline @ .84-1.07 per gallon. Go with the cubes!

- -----Original Message-----

>You're looking for a reason _not_ to install a big block?  Don't expect to
>get that from _me_!  ;-)
>
>I'm not sure why you're hesitant here.  A stock 455 should put out close to
>400 HP and 500 ft-lb of torque, with no hot start or overheating problems,
>so long as you don't get crazy on the motor.  Sure, this isn't an 11 sec
>motor, but it'll turn high 13s easily.  I say do it.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 08:24:17 -0700
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: engine build

Edward Binnix wrote:

> The crowd applauds! Here, here, there's no replacement for displacement.
> More power (ugh,ugh), insignificant weight gain, slight mileage reduction,
> gasoline @ .84-1.07 per gallon. Go with the cubes!

Where in the world do you get gas that cheap!  In Southern California we
add
$0.20 to $0.30 a gallon on top of those figures.

- -- 
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 08:25:48 -0700
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Sound Deadener:Rubber or Tar?

Peter Landowski wrote:

> I am changing the interior carpet on my 72 442. I was wondering should I
> use the "original" tar paper underneath the carpet? Or just use the rubber

Tar paper?!  I thought there was a jute under there.


- -- 
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 23:35:41 -0400
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: gasoline prices was: engine build

Kentucky 84.9 per gallon regular (any brand), 91.9 mid grade (any brand),
1.01 to 1.07 for premium depending on brand. Philips 66 is 1.01, Mobil is
1.04, Amoco on the highway 1.07. Olds content: these gasolines go in the
tank of my 75 Cutlass. :-)
- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Comid <Comid>
Date: Tuesday, October 20, 1998 12:24 PM
Subject: Re: engine build


>
>Received: from halifax.chebucto.ns.ca [192.75.95.75] by jellico.com with
smtp
> id ALBIANDD ; Tue, 20 Oct 1998 11:24:14 -0500
>Received: by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca id <34028-837>; Tue, 20 Oct 1998
12:25:25 -0300
>Received: from dawn.cal.boeing.com ([129.172.51.52]:58598 "EHLO
dawn.bna.boeing.com" ident: "TIMEDOUT") by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca with ESMTP
id <34726-837>; Tue, 20 Oct 1998 12:25:00 -0300
>Received: from slopok.roses.bna.boeing.com ([141.102.33.160])
> by dawn.bna.boeing.com (8.8.5/8.8.5) with ESMTP id IAA28806;
> Tue, 20 Oct 1998 08:16:54 -0700 (PDT)
>Received: from catalina-inter.net (redmax [141.102.60.228])
> by slopok.roses.bna.boeing.com (8.8.7/8.8.7) with ESMTP id IAA13145;
> Tue, 20 Oct 1998 08:24:18 -0700 (PDT)
>Message-ID: <362CAB21.9EBE3501@catalina-inter.net>
>Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 08:24:17 -0700
>From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
>X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.04 [en] (X11; I; SunOS 5.5.1 sun4u)
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Re: engine build
>References: <01bdfbd8$33f14700$282da2ce@comid>
>X-Orcpt: rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h
chebucto.ns.ca oldsmobile-mml"
>Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>Edward Binnix wrote:
>
>> The crowd applauds! Here, here, there's no replacement for displacement.
>> More power (ugh,ugh), insignificant weight gain, slight mileage
reduction,
>> gasoline @ .84-1.07 per gallon. Go with the cubes!
>
>Where in the world do you get gas that cheap!  In Southern California we
>add
>$0.20 to $0.30 a gallon on top of those figures.
>
>--
>Chris Sparks
>68 442 SC - Frosty
>68 442 HT - Scarlet
>68 442 HT - Saffron
>82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
>http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 08:45:51 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: engine build

At 07:18 AM 10/20/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I have a friend who has a 69 cutlas, 350 with powerglide. I gave him a
>ride in my 68 and now he has to have a big block.I have tryed to talk
>him out of it but he wants it still. Keep in mind that my 442 is a 11
>second car and a lot of work to get it there. How do I convince him
>about hot starts,  traction, gears,cams, converters and such. Has
>anybody on the list been down this road?

I can't think of a reason for him not to go to a  big block.

Why did he go to the trouble of adapting a powerglide to a Olds engine?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 09:05:29 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: What color for my 66 Starfire Bucket Seat backs?

I'm changing the interior of my 1966 Starfire from Red to Parchment (off
white). Currently the seat backs and trim panels are red to match the vinyl.
I will have to repaint these, but I don't know what color. 

The parchment interior had a black carpet, black dash and black dash pad
from the factory. 

Question is -- what color should the seat backs and lower seat trim be --
match the parchment or match the black? 

What was the factory solution here? 

Thanks!
cf

PS: I'm still wrestling with the power seat conversion. It is frustrating,
but I think I see a light at the end of the tunnel in the form of early 90's
camaro 6 way seat risers. More on this as (well, o.k., if...) I arrive at a
solution which works well. 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 11:27:32 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: 73 - 77 Cutlass & H/O

Keith, 
Have a 1975 Cutlass Supreme with some other cars.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net


- ----------
> From: Joeytada@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 73 - 77 Cutlass & H/O
> Date: Tuesday, October 20, 1998 12:38 AM
> 
> How many people have 73 - 77 cutlass's and H/O's?  I'm trying to compile
a
> list of the 70's guys. Maybe even startup a seperate list for them.  Let
me
> know if this sounds good to anyone. 
> 
> Keith

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 09:41:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Cars

Hello,

I was wondering if anyone out there might be interested in having
their car pic posted up on my website. I am starting up a table of
whomever may want to be on it. To see it, just click on
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan/Table.html
Send your pics and whether you would like your e-mail and homepage
address shown to rockman20@yahoo.com

Thanks,
Del Vogle




==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 11:49:35 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: 73 - 77 Cutlass & H/O

Last posting was supposed to go private, sorry.
Lou
 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 13:08:09 -0400
From: "Frank Montero" <parc@erols.com>
Subject: 1985 442

THE CAR JUST WENT UP TO 118K. THE TRANNY WAS DONE FROM TOP TO BOTTOM THIS
SUMMER.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 14:12:20 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: New member/ 455 rebuild / parts request

As some of you have probably guessed, Brian is one of my cronies. A bit of
a technological dinosaur but with our dinosaur cars that isn't a surprise.
No more small-block cracks though, Doc, or you'll get bounced outta here!
:)

I have been hearing some of these same questions for a little while now
when I talk to Brian and I admit I don't have the answers. But I wonder
about some of this stuff too, like why new head gaskets are thicker than
the old. You'd think it would be the other way around. Why advertised
compression ratio pistons actually never give you what they advertise. How
the heck you can pick a cam for the type of driving you want to do,
without all kinds or trial-and-error. How to rebuild an Olds engine using
some of the above-noted items without throwing your non-adjustable
valvetrain geometry out the window due to reduced base-circle cams,
thicker gaskets, etc., and getting a noisy, tapping, out-of-whack mess. 

This stuff has been discussed here for eons and is in the FAQ, but the
fact that there is still no easily-understood answer tells me that it
needs some more exploration here. What would be neat is a checklist, or a
cookbook one could follow when doing a rebuild like this. Not a how-to for
every little detail, but stuff that would let you pick parts with a little
more confidence, like "Recommended head gasket: Fel-Pro ABC-123; mill
heads .017 (or whatever) to compensate for increased head gasket
thickness". Same with things like oil restrictors, crossover port
material, things like that. Seems to me a lot of this stuff is only
necessary if you want to wind your motor real high, something not everyone
does. You could spend a whole lot of money on stuff and end up with an
engine that is unsuitable for the type of use you want to put it to.  Does
Joe Mondello's technical reference have this sort of thing in it? I find
he tends to cloud things up by recommending all of his own parts. What
about Dave Smith Engineering? Anyone know what cams Dick Miller is selling
these days?  

I know (because I know Brian) that what he wants is a very smooth idling
motor, that looks totally factory on the outside. He wouldn't mind a
little sorcery on the inner workings to give him more punch since those
low-comp 71s need all the help they can get ;-) but he doesn't want to
wind the thing real high; low to midrange torque is the thing he likes
best.  It's a balancing act; the factory setup meets the criteria for
smoothness, but the temptation is to add a little more modern aftermarket
stuff at the risk of losing that smooth delivery and idle. Hope someone
here can add to the posts already made. 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 13:38:59 -0400
From: Jim Olson <jolson@edzone.net>
Subject: Re:head gasket thickness

Which brings up a point...

Just how much do you lose in compression if your new head gasket is say
.012 thicker than the original one?

And is this worth the expense of having your heads milled?

Jim...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 13:48:35 -0400
From: Brian Kerr <bkerr@golden.net>
Subject: Re: New addition to the Olds Family

Thanks for the replies.
The trouble in addition to an unattractive shade of light green, is that
there is some surface rust... the "dreaded GM rust scabs" and I have to
take care of them before they get terminal. The consensus seems to be a
dark metallic green.

Edward Binnix wrote:

> Uhhh . . . dark green?
>

Andrew C. Green wrote:

> > Any suggestions on paint colors that would go good with a light
> > green interior. It is a pale metalic green, and it is not staying
> > that color!
>
> >From your description of the rest of the car, it sounds like the
> paint would be pretty bleached out and oxidized. Have you tried
> buffing it out first to see how good it can look?
>
> If it still looks atrocious after buffing out a test area, I'd
> go with a nice deep green metallic. I always thought that looked
> pretty classy...
>
> -- Andy
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 13:49:28 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: gasoline prices was: engine build

In a message dated 10/20/98 10:38:45 AM EST, comid@jellico.com writes:

<< Kentucky 84.9 per gallon regular (any brand), 91.9 mid grade (any brand),
 1.01 to 1.07 for premium depending on brand. Philips 66 is 1.01, Mobil is
 1.04, Amoco on the highway 1.07. Olds content: these gasolines go in the
 tank of my 75 Cutlass. :-) >>

geeesh...and I thought NJ was the cheapest. 95.9 reg  113.5 spec  117.9 hitest
Hey, it might be worth a trip to fill up my Delta!
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 01:59:25 -0400
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: gasoline prices was: engine build

Bring a couple of 55 gallon drums on a trailer and we'll load you up. ;-)
Last time I saw gas this cheap was when all the stations still had leaded
regular at the pump. In my first car (72 Skylark), in 1981, I was paying
1.17 per gallon for regular unleaded. (that's 17 years ago folks). Boy,
fossil fuel must be getting
(that statement would give the tree-huggers, doom-sayers, and fear mongers a
hemorrhoid)

- -----Original Message-----

>
>geeesh...and I thought NJ was the cheapest. 95.9 reg  113.5 spec  117.9
hitest
>Hey, it might be worth a trip to fill up my Delta!
>Bruce
>75 Delta 88 conv.
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 14:10:08 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: gasoline prices was: engine build

JonKrisInc@aol.com wrote:
> 
> << Kentucky 84.9 per gallon regular (any brand), 91.9 mid grade (any brand),
>  1.01 to 1.07 for premium depending on brand. Philips 66 is 1.01, Mobil is
>  1.04, Amoco on the highway 1.07. 
> 
> geeesh...and I thought NJ was the cheapest. 95.9 reg  113.5 spec  117.9 
hitest
> Hey, it might be worth a trip to fill up my Delta!

Well, I can tell that in CENTRAL Ky this has been a recent event. 
Prices for regular unleaded within a 40 radius of Lexington has varied
from 78.9 to 102.9 on the same day.  Currently it's around 95.9 to
1.049.  Somehow price fixing and collusion come to mind because when one
chain goes up or down the others follow so quick you would think they
are all owned by the same people.  Directly related to the price of gas
is the mpgs you get.  What numbers could you expect from a stock 350 or
455 automatic. I know it depends on how you drive, rear end ratios, etc,
but the setup in my 70 350 4bbl conv A/T used to get around 16-17 on the
open road and the 69 S conv 350 4 bbl 4 speed would get 16 at 80-90 mph
and the air on.  What about the 455s?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 12:14:43 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Camshaft Amplifiers (was 1.7 ratio rockers)

> they cheap.  Also, what does the increased ratio do.  Please explain this to
> me as I have always wondered what more ratio would do.  Thanks a LOT. 

Basically, the rockers give a mechanical advantage to the camshaft, allowing
more lift at the valve.  If the rockers were 1:1, it'd be the same as an
overhead cam, as far as lift goes.  If the cam lobe is up 1/4", the valve is
open 1/4".  With the mechanical advantage from the rockers, that 1/4" of cam
lift would open the valve farther.  With the 1.7 ratio, the valves will be open
farther than stock, essentially the same as adding a higher lift cam,
essentially allowing more goodies to flow into the combustion chamber, and more
baddies :) to flow out...  All great in theory, but...  My 350 Olds had stock
rockers, hydraulic lifters, and a CompCams 280 Magnum.  I smacked the pistons 
at
high RPM (OK, really high...) but if you add more lift on a cam like that, 
you'd
best be doing some major interference testing, and cutting those pistons to
clear the valves, if need be.  Some of the hotter cams will be dangerously 
close
to causing problems otherwise...


- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 11:30:04 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: engine build

B. Vosburgh wrote:

> I have a friend who has a 69 cutlas, 350 with powerglide. I gave him a
> ride in my 68 and now he has to have a big block.

Butch, i would have to agree with you. But it seems that only those who
have spent OODLEs of money on their cars (ie, aluminum heads and LONG
waiting lists) are the ones who would rather just build up a cheaper, just
as efficient and strong on it's own terms 350. I have the same 400 block
and I have cooling problems in the summer when it's 120+ out in the desert.
I have some problems even in the winter with heat soaked starters... Huge 2
guage cable and a 1000 amp battery in my trunk. I already have the f**d
solenoid for the next time I'm stranded for a few minutes when my starter
decides to not crank... I have already started planning my next car... I
may do it with a 60-70 eara car, but more likely a late model G body Olds.
A Monster 350 ported heads,9.5 or 10:1 compression, headers, dual exhaust
with balancer, ported intake, RPM intake, 750 Q-jet, Nice cam, 3or 4 row
radiator, AC, Gear drive, (home made injection will come later) An
overdrive and atleast 3.23 rear. Loads of torque, massive high end with
overdrive, high RPMs, Quick off the line and cruise at 90 with the AC on
and still get 20 MPG... After dealing with the Big Blocks, I LOVE THEM, but
am ready for another big challenge and that is a 350.

Hope my story helps Butch.

Ben
When is somebody gonna buy my 62???
http://www.primenet.com/~olds442/forsale.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 02:47:38 -0400
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: gasoline prices was: engine build

I get 17 mpg around town (depending on how I drive) and 10 mpg pulling my
boat (about 3000#) at 70 mph. That's a stock 455 auto with headers, 3.42
gear, and A/C going.

- -----Original Message-----

>What numbers could you expect from a stock 350 or
>455 automatic. I know it depends on how you drive, rear end ratios, etc,
>but the setup in my 70 350 4bbl conv A/T used to get around 16-17 on the
>open road and the 69 S conv 350 4 bbl 4 speed would get 16 at 80-90 mph
>and the air on.  What about the 455s?
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 14:53:32 -0500 (EST)
From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu>
Subject: oldsmagnet II ?

Hello all...


Well I did it again... bought another Cutlass... this makes 2 this month!
Again too good a deal to pass up.  Car is an '82 Cutlass Brougham (vin=
1G3AM47Y5CMXXXXXX) 307 4bbl. built in Lansing.  Car is an original 90k
mile garage kept car driven (LITERALLY) by an old lady... paid asking
price of $100.  Well... it does have a LITTLE bit of body damage... ahh...
who am I kidding... OK... the frame's bent... bad... trunk is collapsed
about halfway... everything in front of the trunk is in great shape... car
still runs and drive well... for a car with a bent frame.  Frame could
probably be cut and patched... but that would mean redoing the entire rear
end of the car... including resetting the rear end into it's correct
location... probably not worth it... drove the car 45 miles w/out a hint
or problems though... 307 4bbl. runs like a clock... but without the 
ticking ;-) probably mostly highway miles.  TH350 (thank GOD it's not 
another metric 200) shifts smoothly and evenly no probs... sounds to me
like an awesome donor for the '79... which is what I bought this car for
;-) Previous owner (husband of the little old lady) is dead (did not die
in the car... the wreck had no injuries :-)  ).


BTW, also came with a box of NOS interior fake wood panels... (vents etc)
already sold the ones that I can't use in the '79.  I'm gonna use the
original radio and the pioneer speakers from it in the '79 too.  As the
dash itself should be the same I'm going to keep it for a spare... will
probably keep the body panels too (unless somebody make me a great offer)
in case I ever buy another one... a lot of the interior parts are going to
be pickin's for you guys though.  The 79's interior is black vinyl... this
thing has got light green fabric... so not much of it is any use to me...
might make a sofa out of the bench seat though... it's just too
comfortable ;-)  Carpet's even in good shape if anybody wants it... door
panels are basically perfect... but my buddy's got dibs on the power lock
switches and associated hardware.  Tilt collumn is good but I'll prob. use
it in the '79 if it works... mine's broken.  Basically the interior's near
perfect... if there's anything anybody wants... write me and ask and I'll
see if I'm planning on using the item.  Also came with a set of older
hubcaps... that are in VGC... pretty sure they are from a '64 Dynamic 88.
Will probably sell them once I find out for sure what they are.

Gawd... look at that signature... it's growing... my mother's starting to
worry about me ;-) BTW, heard about a parts '79 just yesterday... same
options as mine... with blown motor.  Also saw a '70 88 yesterday... and a
mint '67 Toro.  Just got paid from BOTH jobs at once... trying desperately
to save it for less desireable things like rent and food though... 'guess
I could always live in that Toro ;-)


    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
 |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
 |  |  |     
 |  |  |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
 | / \ |     
 |/   \|     1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
  \   /         (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
   \ /          http://www.442.com/pierce.html
    |        1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass Brougham
		(parts car) (307, 4bbl, TH350, 2.14:1, 90k miles)
	     1980 Rover 3500 SD1
	        (215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/othercars.html
     	     1979 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
		(260 V8, 2bbl, TH350)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/79cutlass.html
	     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
		(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/bonneville.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 15:11:36 -0400
From: Jim Olson <jolson@edzone.net>
Subject: Re: oldsmagnet II ?

Don'tcha wonder why Olds never came up with a fix for the ticking rocker
arm problem besides replacement? I've NEVER replaced rocker arms on any
car I've had besides my V8 Oldsmobiles...

My current '83 307 does it too... it's so annoying...

Jim...

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1561
*********************************

