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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1564


oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, October 22 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1564



Re: electric fuel pumps
RE: electric fuel pumps
Re: CREEPY CRAWLIES
Oldsmobile Named!
Covertible Top Question..
Re: Oldsmobile Named!
Re: Convertible Top Question..
More '68 Cutlass bucket seat questions...
RE: Oldsmobile Named!
Re: Mileage on 75 Cutlass {old Spark plugs}
Re: Are these the same???
Air cleaners
Engine Ping -- Ignition vs. Octane
Re: More '68 Cutlass bucket seat questions...
83 H/O for sale
Re: 403 -> 409ci
Re: rebuilding a 307...
Trans / Converter
Re: CREEPY CRAWLIES
Re: Convertible Top Question..
Re: 73 - 77 Cutlass & H/O
Steering Column and Steering gear question
WEB PAGE
Re: Covertible Top Question..
Engine Balancing - 4speed conversion
Web Page Revised
RTV Gaskets
Re: Trans / Converter
Re: RTV Gaskets
Re: Steering Column and Steering gear question
Re: Ticka Ticka (was somethin else)
Re: Air cleaners
Re: More '68 Cutlass bucket seat questions...
Re: Trans / Converter
Re: CREEPY CRAWLIES
Re: Air cleaners
403/computer problems
Dennis
Re: More '68 Cutlass bucket seat questions...
Re: Daytona under the lights, 8:00
RE: Steering Column and Steering gear question
RE: Ticka Ticka (was somethin else)
O/D Transmissions
Re: O/D Transmissions
Re: O/D Transmissions
Re: Mileage on 75 Cutlass {old Spark plugs}
Re: O/D Transmissions (long)
Re: O/D Transmissions (long)
Karl's breaking back
Re: Importing Vehicles
Hot Rod Power Tour
Re: 1970 98 Convertible Sheet Metal
Other four barrels don't work and vaccuume is low (long)
GROW YOUNG WITH HGH!
Re: 69 Tail light lens gasket?
UNBOUNCE: Re: 1970 98 Convertible Sheet Metal
Re: Soylent's brakes
Re: Engine Ping -- Ignition vs. Octane
of carbs and ignitions

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 04:58:57 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: electric fuel pumps

>        I had a friend a couple of years ago who used an OEM electric
>pump for
>some foreign carbureted car (can't remember what kind) in his street
>rod.  He was
>running a Chevy 350 in a '48 Dodge truck (not my idea) that he planned
>to chop.
>The engine was modified a bit.  It ran 10.5:1 compression, mildly
>radical cam,
>Edelbrock Performer, Holley carb, and low budget headers and glass
>packs.
>Anyway, as I remember the pump ran very quietly and it fed his engine
>just fine.
>
Damn, that sounds good for me, it's a shame we don't know what car it's
from!  Anyone know of any cars that came with electric pumps and carbs?

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
>
>--
>Thomas P. Smith
>1971 Cutlass S 350
>smithtp@ix.netcom.com
>
>
>

___________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 15:25:42 -0600
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: RE: electric fuel pumps

> Damn, that sounds good for me, it's a shame we don't know what car it's
> from!  Anyone know of any cars that came with electric pumps and carbs?
>
> Ray Costanzo
> 87 409 Cutlass
> Bucks County, PA

I used to own a '84 H*nda that had a 3bbl carb & electric fuel pump...  As I
remember, the fuel pump was very quiet.  All you could ever hear of it was a
slight clicking sound that you could only hear when you were standing close
to it...

- -Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 14:22:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: CREEPY CRAWLIES

  I think getting one is a great idea.  I have one, and it makes
getting under and out from under the car a lot easier, not to mention
that it saves your head from banging into stuff.  I would just say,
stay away from plastic wheels (they break), and get one with a good
head rest pad thing(your neck will thank you).  Other than that,
Options like the tool thing on the side or anything else is up to you
and your wallet.

Just my opinions,
Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
sgadecki@yahoo.com



_________________________________________________________
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Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 17:26:07 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Oldsmobile Named!

List(s): I knew that a real car guy...uh person...(!) *always* names his (or
her) car(s).  John's '85 Cutlass is named Topless, a truly fitting name...I
wanted a fitting one, too.  I came up with Flash, for a few reasons.  Its
clearcoat white paint is always shiny if the car is nicely waxed.
 The chrome SSIII's are in great shape (read: still shiny).  The white-letters
provide a eye-catching contrast with the otherwise black tires and the chrome
rims.  Very "noticeable".
 *And*, Roscoe P. Coltrane's bad-@ss dog in Dukes of Hazzard is named Flash,
so...  :-)

Comments?  I wasn't able to come up with a human name (like Clay's Lucille or
Jerry's Alice), but I think Flash is kinda cool...

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 16:35:01 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Covertible Top Question..

In my 72 442 convertible I bleeded the system and replaced it with Dexron
trans fluid. The question I have is if I need to replace the pump itself.
When I activate the motor it tends to be kinda loud. I have the rear seat
out, so this may add to the noise, but I nave never heard another 442
convertible motor at work so I don't know if this noise in normal. Then it
tends to close and open slowly, again, I never seen a 442 open and close
its top, so I don;t know if this would be considered slow. I timed it so
you other 442 convertible  owners can tell me if it is considered "slow"

I took about 15 seconds for the top to go from fully closed to fully down.
The same time of 15 seconds also to go from fully down to fully closed. Are
these times OK? What is the norm?

Also there seems to be a little air still left in one of the lines, how do
I get this out?

Thanks




Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 14:51:05 -0700
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Named!

Jason Adcock wrote:

> Comments?  I wasn't able to come up with a human name (like Clay's
> Lucille or Jerry's Alice), but I think Flash is kinda cool...

How about Cally (pronounced kal-lee).  That is a woman's nickname.

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 17:00:19 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Convertible Top Question..

I haven't timed mine, but 15 seconds sounds about right.  My pump is
pretty loud WITH the seat in.  If it works, don't worry about it.  As
for the air bubbles, I read that the only method of purging the system
is to fully run the top and down several times and the air
automatically goes out.

- -greg

- -----Original Message-----
From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, October 21, 1998 5:35 PM
Subject: Covertible Top Question..


>In my 72 442 convertible I bleeded the system and replaced it with
Dexron
>trans fluid. The question I have is if I need to replace the pump
itself.
>When I activate the motor it tends to be kinda loud. I have the rear
seat
>out, so this may add to the noise, but I nave never heard another 442
>convertible motor at work so I don't know if this noise in normal.
Then it
>tends to close and open slowly, again, I never seen a 442 open and
close
>its top, so I don;t know if this would be considered slow. I timed it
so
>you other 442 convertible  owners can tell me if it is considered
"slow"
>
>I took about 15 seconds for the top to go from fully closed to fully
down.
>The same time of 15 seconds also to go from fully down to fully
closed. Are
>these times OK? What is the norm?
>
>Also there seems to be a little air still left in one of the lines,
how do
>I get this out?
>
>Thanks
>
>
>
>
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 18:07:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: More '68 Cutlass bucket seat questions...

I'm still trying to figure out if these seats are for this car or an older
year (they don't have headrests) or if they're from another make of car. The
pattern of seat cover on them does not match any patterns in the various
supplier catalogs. If anyone could e-mail (privately, of course) pictures of
their '68 buckets, I would be most appreciative.

One problem with the seats I have is they recline way too much. You find
yourself leaning up and stretching to see the road when driving. From what I
can tell, there's no way to adjust them. The only possible solution I see is
to raise the rear mounting brackets 2-3 inches. So I guess a bracket
extension will have to be made. Anyone had this problem with theirs?

I guess one way to deal with this problem, and considering the $ I've put
into the car to this point, would be to just replace the seats with some
that are for sure from a '68 Cutlass. Does anyone know where a pair can be
bought?

Thanks again,

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 15:17:52 -0700
From: "David Seiver - Account Executive" <DavidS@AnaServe.com>
Subject: RE: Oldsmobile Named!

My Yellow '67 442 225bb 4brl is named
"ATHENA"

David Seiver
Account Representative
AnaServe, Inc. - A Concentric Network Company
Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283 (949) 250-7262 Ext. 283
Fax: 714.250.7265
e-mail: dseiver@cncx.com
Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Chris Sparks
> Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 1998 2:51 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Named!
>
>
> Jason Adcock wrote:
>
> > Comments?  I wasn't able to come up with a human name (like Clay's
> > Lucille or Jerry's Alice), but I think Flash is kinda cool...
>
> How about Cally (pronounced kal-lee).  That is a woman's nickname.
>
> --
> Chris Sparks
> 68 442 SC - Frosty
> 68 442 HT - Scarlet
> 68 442 HT - Saffron
> 82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
> http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 16:30:16 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Mileage on 75 Cutlass {old Spark plugs}

Nice, not too burnt back, light orange film (normal).  They were
motomaster V-grooves, so they shouldn't be too old.  I didn't see the
black-crud of flooding, though, which puzzles me?

TimLeary97@aol.com wrote:
>
> What did the spark plugs look like before you changed them?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 15:35:34 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Are these the same???

At 01:57 PM 10/21/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Thanks to everyone who replied so quickly! Now I just have to figure
>out if I want "originality" or if I want to add a customize look to my
>car a little bit more.


Go with the good looking grille. :)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 18:42:30 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Air cleaners

'Would like to get my 71 4-4-2  455 engine compartment back to original.  I
currently have an open-type chrome air filter ("made in Taiwan" sticker on the
bottom -- YIKES!).  I have the OAI hood with the screen intact, so I'm looking
at the o.e. foam job, but have only seen the top part for sale (@~$500???!!!).
does this mean that the top is the only part that's different and that _it_
fits on to a regular air cleaner housing?  Also, re; valve covers, I currently
have chrome ones but want to change those out too.  Do o.e. covers have d-
holes for PCV on both sides or just driver's side?  Thanks in advance for the
info...

Scott
71 442 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 18:55:46 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Engine Ping -- Ignition vs. Octane

I'm a real rookie with these motors, so please bear with me. 'Having trouble
eliminating the pings from my engine (just rebuilt 71 455 in a 4-4-2) on
acceleration, even mild acceleration. Mechanic advanced the timing and the
ping disappeared until the engine warmed up, then it reappeared worse than
before (but the car went like hell). So we retarded the timing, and there's
still pinging with acceleration (but no appreciable loss of performance). Now
he advises that I've got an "octane or gas ping" and not a "spark ping"  (he
can hear the difference between the two) and is recommending additives. I
switched to Sunoco 94 recently, but no help.  He's recommending Sunoco racing
fuel (available at some stations) or some sort of lead addititive to lube the
valves.

Do any of you folks use additives?

What kind?

Are they harmful?

Is the pinging harmful?

What is actually causing the sound (what's hitting what) and what do timing
and octane have to do with it?

Thanks in advance for your input. I imagine there's no way around a long
response on this one, but I'm all ears if you have the time...

Thanks again.

Scott
71 442 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 18:17:52 -0500
From: Dan Williams <442much@plutonium.net>
Subject: Re: More '68 Cutlass bucket seat questions...

It sounds as if you have the wrong bucket seats.  You should not have to modify
the rear bracket.  Are you sure your car is an original bucket seat car.  It
could have been a bench seat car, and modified improperly.  The best way to
tell if you have 68 buckets, is to verify that the seat release is on the side,
and not in the middle back like the 69 on up style.

- -Dan

C. Casteel wrote:

> I'm still trying to figure out if these seats are for this car or an older
> year (they don't have headrests) or if they're from another make of car. The
> pattern of seat cover on them does not match any patterns in the various
> supplier catalogs. If anyone could e-mail (privately, of course) pictures of
> their '68 buckets, I would be most appreciative.
>
> One problem with the seats I have is they recline way too much. You find
> yourself leaning up and stretching to see the road when driving. From what I
> can tell, there's no way to adjust them. The only possible solution I see is
> to raise the rear mounting brackets 2-3 inches. So I guess a bracket
> extension will have to be made. Anyone had this problem with theirs?
>
> I guess one way to deal with this problem, and considering the $ I've put
> into the car to this point, would be to just replace the seats with some
> that are for sure from a '68 Cutlass. Does anyone know where a pair can be
> bought?
>
> Thanks again,

- --
Dan Williams                            442Much@plutonium.net
Marion, IA                                     68 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 07:59:36 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: 83 H/O for sale

Hey y'all
Spotted this in the Penny Power, a free publication in the Bucks County
area (PA near philly)

1983 Hurst Olds, 72,000 original miles, been sitting, not inspected,
paint shot, interior excellent, runs, $2000.  (610) 847-8561 after 5.

I'll race ya to it.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 05:19:37 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: 403 -> 409ci

There was a lot of discussion about this about a year ago, and I still
haven't understood what a solid main web is as opposed to open web.  But
I do believe I remember that the solid ones are rare.  Hey, how about
using that crank-trigger ignition they had on some 403's, if you could
get it to be reliable...

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA

On Wed, 21 Oct 1998 08:44:48 +0000 Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
writes:
>
>>Are all Olds small block of this "open web" design or just the 403?
>>
>
>I think all '77 and up are
>
>>I understand there is one or two years that the 403 had a solid
>block, any
>>info?
>>
>mostly rumors. Anyone actually SEE a smw 403?
>
>
>
>
>

___________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 05:16:51 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: rebuilding a 307...

Darren,
Good luck with the 86 307,
There really isn't much for this engine.  It has a roller cam unlike
othere Oldses. It has intake and exhaust ports different from all other
Oldses, and of course all the computer/emissions stuff.  If you're puling
the engine, put in a 350 or 403, specially since it's a wagon!

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA

On Wed, 21 Oct 1998 09:38:19 -0400 Darren King <dking@Legato.COM> writes:
>I'm going to rebuild the 307 in my 86 Custom Cruiser this winter.
>Does anyone have any experience with custom parts for this
>motor?  Most of the big catalogs just have stuff for the 350 or
>455 olds engine but nothing for the lowly 307.
>
>Darren King
>

___________________________________________________________________
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Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 20:04:31 -0400
From: Toby Blom <floridarealtor@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Trans / Converter

Dear list
Thank you for your response regarding swapping my Jetaway Tranny with
something which fits withouth damaging alterations.

I have two more questions:

Is the internals in a BOP TH350 the same as the internals in a chevy
th350? (I have a complete B&M transkit (the $200 one) for a chevy th350,
can I use this for a BOP th350)

What will be a good converter to choose? my 66 is a daily driver (3000
miles a month!) and I need something which will not completely ruin my
fuel economy (but still convert some power)

Toby

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 17:24:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: CREEPY CRAWLIES

- ---Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu> wrote:
>
> I'm thinking I need to buy a Creepy Crawly (you know, a board on
wheels,
> that you lay on your back on while working on cars).
>
> Does anyone have a favorite brand, or know of some particular
feature to
> look for?  I know it's not Rocket Science, but I would like to buy
one that
> EVERYONE would be happy with (and that will make ME
happy)...especially
> since I only plan on buying one in my lifetime.
>
> Rubber wheels?  Metal?  One plank?  Three?  Tool trays on the side?


- ----Hey Brian,
        Summit sells a seat/creeper combo. for like $50....and the
quality is pretty good.

==
John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com
  ICQ # 16956740      Lithia Springs, Ga.
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 19:30:22 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Convertible Top Question..

The loudest time is when the top is going down, going up is not to bad.

Pettrix@prodigy.net


- ----------
> From: Gregory Zimmerman <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Convertible Top Question..
> Date: Wednesday, October 21, 1998 4:00 PM
>
> I haven't timed mine, but 15 seconds sounds about right.  My pump is
> pretty loud WITH the seat in.  If it works, don't worry about it.  As
> for the air bubbles, I read that the only method of purging the system
> is to fully run the top and down several times and the air
> automatically goes out.
>
> -greg

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 20:37:26 EDT
From: W451973@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73 - 77 Cutlass & H/O

body from tennessee
455, aries pistons, edelbrock heads, eagle rods, performer intake for now,
might go with an offy portosonic, barry grant carb, just to name some of the
stuff. im in the process, sending block to shop. will be building this monster
over the winter with the help of my fellow STREET ROCKET club members. winter
plans include 8 point comp engineering roll bar, harwood fuel cell, finish
cleaning and painting the bottem. im converting to manual brakes with line
lock, manual steering, currently have a 391 10 bolt posi, but i will be going
with a 9 inch, 433s and a comp eng ladder bar setup in the near future. i hope
to post some pics soon, as i get the time. keep checking WMACHIES page. all
this fun plus work and spending time with the wife and my new baby daughter
CHRISTINA. i do have some extra 76-77 442 parts for sale. by the way, arent
you the guy who was parting out the california 442? hows yours coming along?
sorry if i bored everybody. take care.
dennis gregory
w451973@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 19:50:19 -0500
From: Matthew Bremmer <bremmer@otter.cray.com>
Subject: Steering Column and Steering gear question

I have basically a few questions about a 1978 Olds Cutlass Supremme
Brougham.  The steering is just not there.  When the steering wheel is
in the locked position it moves\rotates about 1/2" of play.  I mean you
literally see the whole column move counter\clockwise.  I checked the
bolts for the brackets to the firewall and the bolts on the column
brackets,etc.  All tight so I know this is something internal to the
column so I am thinking I probably should just replace the steering
column(or should I repair it)?  Right or wrong?  If I repair it
basically I will have to go to a junk yard and buy an old steering
column and scrap it out for the parts that are broke.  So what is the
best thing to do here?  What has been successful for you guys in the
past.  Basically it comes down to which will take less time and less
hassle?  What is a good price to pay for a steering column from the junk
yard? The steering gear appears to be bad as well so is there any
special adjustments I will have to do after replacing it(I am going to
go to NAPA and buy a remanufactured steering gear)?  I am trying to get
some ideas of the best way to go here so any ideas would be appreciated.
I do have the body/chassis and service manuals for the vehicle from
vintage books and the haynes manual.  So I have plenty of resources of
how to tear down the steering column and so forth.


Thanks for your responses.

Matt

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 21:01:25 -0400
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: WEB PAGE

Finally got around to developing a web page.  See
www.iaw.on.ca~wschwart/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 20:47:17 EDT
From: RAC5419@aol.com
Subject: Re: Covertible Top Question..

In a message dated 98-10-21 17:35:43 EDT, you write:

<< I took about 15 seconds for the top to go from fully closed to fully down.
 The same time of 15 seconds also to go from fully down to fully closed. Are
 these times OK? What is the norm?
  >>
Peter,

Took out a stop watch to check my 72 and its about 13 seconds each way. Always
felt this was slow compared to the 95 LeBaron so since it's in the driveway
more with daughter #1 back in Junior college I checked it too. The 95 goes
down in 8 up in 9. But the 72 has a longer distance to travel.

If you want to listen, e-mail me and you can stop by (Downers Grove).

Dick Compton
72 442 convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 19:53:34 -0500
From: Shang <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Engine Balancing - 4speed conversion

When I had my 350 balanced, the machine shop factored in the weight of
my automatic flexplate into the balancing. If I wanted to install a
4-speed stick, how would the increased weight of the manual flywheel
affect my balancing?


Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 21:10:35 -0400
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: Web Page Revised

Sorry...my fingers didn't work too well

www.iaw.on.ca/~wschwart/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 21:20:51 -0400
From: "Robert Collins" <collins@peterboro.net>
Subject: RTV Gaskets

Just a word of advice about using RTV to replace gaskets.  Be careful not
to get too much on the part, excess material has been known to come off
when tigtening the bolts.  The end result is usually a plug oil drain from
the heads or it it gets picked up it can plug an oil line.  You will find
most after market gasket sets include gaskets for places that were
originally RTV and this is the reason.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 18:04:20 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Trans / Converter

>Is the internals in a BOP TH350 the same as the internals in a chevy
>th350? (I have a complete B&M transkit (the $200 one) for a chevy th350,
>can I use this for a BOP th350)

yes, they are the same.

>
>What will be a good converter to choose? my 66 is a daily driver (3000
>miles a month!) and I need something which will not completely ruin my
>fuel economy (but still convert some power)

I've had good results with the 2200 rpm converter in my Vista.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 20:09:14 -0500
From: Shang <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Re: RTV Gaskets

Robert Collins wrote:
>
> Just a word of advice about using RTV to replace gaskets.  Be careful not
> to get too much on the part, excess material has been known to come off
> when tigtening the bolts.  The end result is usually a plug oil drain from
> the heads or it it gets picked up it can plug an oil line.

The key to using RTV for a gasket is to put a bead on the valve cover,
then just simply set it on the head and allow it setup for a few hours
(completely dry) then tighten up. This method makes the RTV act like a
gasket - it will compress and seal when tightened, after it has setup.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 18:10:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Steering Column and Steering gear question

- ---Matthew Bremmer <bremmer@otter.cray.com> wrote:
>
> I have basically a few questions about a 1978 Olds Cutlass Supremme
> Brougham.  The steering is just not there.  When the steering wheel is
> in the locked position it moves\rotates about 1/2" of play.  I mean
you
> literally see the whole column move counter\clockwise.<SNIP>

 What has been successful for you guys in the
> past.  Basically it comes down to which will take less time and less
> hassle?  What is a good price to pay for a steering column from the
junk
> yard? The steering gear appears to be bad as well so is there any
> special adjustments I will have to do after replacing it(I am going to
> go to NAPA and buy a remanufactured steering gear)?


> Thanks for your responses.
>
> Matt




- ----Hi Matt,
         I'd just replace it....I mean to do any ~real~ rebuilding of
it, it has to come out anyway. Most any 80's GM ought to work, but I'm
sure all G-bodys will. As far as the steering gear box goes, spend the
little extra to get the close ratio one for a 442 or H/O.
        Later,
>

==
John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com
  ICQ # 16956740      Lithia Springs, Ga.
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 21:21:35 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Ticka Ticka (was somethin else)

>
>Don'tcha wonder why Olds never came up with a fix for the ticking rocker
>arm problem besides replacement? I've NEVER replaced rocker arms on any
>car I've had besides my V8 Oldsmobiles...
>
>My current '83 307 does it too... it's so annoying...



That problem was solved in 85. Switch to a 'roller' version 307.

( heh heh -  I've waited a ~long~ time to say that!)

They don't make any ticka - ticka noises. Yeah, yeah, they don't make any
power either. I know. But I do get some jollies reveling in the magnificent
quietness of those roller lifters.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 21:14:05 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Air cleaners

 I have the OAI hood with the screen intact, so I'm looking
at the o.e. foam job, but have only seen the top part for sale
(@~$500???!!!).
does this mean that the top is the only part that's different and that _it_
fits on to a regular air cleaner housing?
_________

The plastic O.A.I. adapter will fit and work on a stock 4bbl air cleaner
housing, though this will not factory correct.  The correct air cleaner
bases used with O.A.I. have a wider snorkle 6" wide at the base where it
joins the housing, as opposed to 5" on other 4bbl cleaners.  The O.A.I.
bases also have two holes in the sides for the connection to the pipes
going to the valve covers.  All W-30s and all 455/4 spd W-25 cars used both
holes, but 350 cars and AT non-W-30s only used the one on the passenger
side, with a rubber plugh in the other.  This is apparently the same air
cleaner housing used on all 4 spd 442s in 1970 (though obviously without
the O.A.I. adapter), as the 4 spd big block cars had a cast iron manifold
with the PCV valve provision in the manifold, similar to W-30s.  Obviously,
the O.A.I. cars also had the small-diameter lid on the air filter.

In addition, the air cleaner base as used in O.A.I. applications has five
small holes drilled in the flat part of the base, outboard of the filter,
for water drainage.

(The following is for Ray Moriarty) These holes are 1/4" in diameter and
equally spaced on a 15 5/8" circle.  Two of the holes are located directly
below the two holes for the pipes to the valve covers, the others are
equally spaced.

==============

 Also, re; valve covers, I currently have chrome ones but want to change
those out too.  Do o.e. covers have d-holes for PCV on both sides or just
driver's side?
_________

Both valve covers have the "D" holes.  In W-30 and 455/4spd applications,
both valve covers used the rubber grommet with the large hole which accepts
the black metal filter.  This filter in turn connects to the air cleaner
through the bent black metal pipe.  Again, W-30s and 455/4spd cars used
two, while 350s and AT non-W-30s used one on the passenger side only.  In
these applications, the driver's side valve cover had a rubber grommet with
a smaller hole to accept the PCV valve.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 21:17:53 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: More '68 Cutlass bucket seat questions...

One problem with the seats I have is they recline way too much.
__________

If these are, in fact, GM buckets of late60s/early 70s vintage, there may
be an easy solution.  Tilt the seatback forward and look at the portion of
the bottom cushion that the seatback normally rests on.  You should see two
black plastic bumpers, about 3/4" wide and an inch or so long with rounded
edges.  These are held on with one screw each.  If they are broken or
missing, the seat will lean back further than normal.  Repros are available
from the usual sources.

Note, this is also a neat trick if you _want_ the seat to lean back
further.  Just remove the bumpers.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 20:54:56 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Trans / Converter

Is the internals in a BOP TH350 the same as the internals in a chevy
th350? (I have a complete B&M transkit (the $200 one) for a chevy th350,
can I use this for a BOP th350)
_________

They are the same (assuming you have a non-lockup torque converter model).

=============

What will be a good converter to choose? my 66 is a daily driver (3000
miles a month!) and I need something which will not completely ruin my
fuel economy (but still convert some power)
_________

Unless you have a radically modified engine, a converter of about stock
stall speed or slightly higher will be fine.  The only reason to run a
"loose" converter is if you have a very radical cam and require a higher
idle speed.  The high stall will only be a benefit during drag strip
launches, as it's function is to allow you to power brake the engine up to
an RPM which will be in the power band.  At all other times (as in, driving
on the street) the high-stall converter will slip more that stock and cause
a reduction in mileage.  Something between 1800 and 2400 RPM stall speed
would be fine.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

Toby

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 21:32:55 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: CREEPY CRAWLIES

>I'm thinking I need to buy a Creepy Crawly (you know, a board on wheels,
>that you lay on your back on while working on cars).
>
>Does anyone have a favorite brand, or know of some particular feature to
>look for?

I have one with metal casters and it truly bites. Won't roll over an ant. I
hate it.
I just saw a really neat one in a Sears flyer - it's blow molded plastic,
with big 5 inch rubber wheels they say will roll over extension cords and
even gravel. The wheels are set into covered "wheel wells" that stick up
above the main body in each corner. The thing kinda looks like a dog
biscuit. In fact they call it the DogBone creeper.

Dear Santa:  I want one.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 21:49:40 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Air cleaners

> bases used with O.A.I. have a wider snorkle 6" wide at the base where it
> joins the housing, as opposed to 5" on other 4bbl cleaners.  The O.A.I.

While this is true for 70 and later versions, it may not necessarily be
the case for 69s.  I have BOTH types of air cleaner bases, the 69 H/O
(OAI) and a regular 442 one.  On the 69 442, there was no extra breather
hole on the driver's side as with later versions, but it DOES have a 6"
snout opening.  Identical to the 69 H/O snout.  In fact, the only
difference I can find between the two bases (other than the extra
breather hole) is that the breather holes are raised away from the base
floor about 1/4" higher than the 442 one.  Important factoid to note on
the H/O base is that the passenger side hole used the "long" style
breather pipe rubber grommet/elbow while the driver's side used a stubby
version.  Strange.


> (The following is for Ray Moriarty) These holes are 1/4" in diameter and
> equally spaced on a 15 5/8" circle.  Two of the holes are located directly
> below the two holes for the pipes to the valve covers, the others are
> equally spaced.

This was a lesson learned from the 69 H/O.  A service bulletin came out
in August,'69 concerning water induction into the hood scoop.  On a case
by case basis, when the car came in for any type of service or
complaint, the dealerships were instructed to drill 5 holes in the base
to allow for water drainage.  If anyone needs these dimensions, I'll be
posting a copy of that bulletin on my web page soon.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 21:52:53 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: 403/computer problems

Hi olds list! Sorry to anyone who tried to contact me...my computer is still
down, and my box was full (looks like it took about 3 days to fill up) so my
e-mail was being returned as undeliverable.
      In other more interesting Olds news, I pulled the 403 apart, and am in
the process of rebuilding it. Found out why it never smoked, even though it
was bought used...someone has been in it before. Pistons .40 over (A 409,
correct?) About 5 fatigued valves, stock springs, bent pushrods, some bad
rockers/bridges (only $5 new per cylinder!) what looks to be the original cam
(no stampings on the end, just cast numbers between lobes), about .006 wear in
the bores, cam bearings shot, main and rod bearings shot, crank shot (ground
.020, but looks like sand was run in the engine)
      Some pleasant surprises from the machine shop, some not. Crank
turned/fluxed for $70. WG 1168 (Blue racer/wolverine) cam, with 214/224 @ .050
and ???/496 lift, for $118 with lifters. All new stock pushrods for $32 a set.
Retainers for valve springs, if necessary: $60. Other than that, rebuilt the
Q-jet, some minor tweaking to the rods and linkage, and am going to replace
the front seal on the trans, and the pan gasket. Hopefully back on line soon,
and if anyone owants more info, remember to ask next time I post...hopefully I
will be up and running with both computer and car SOON!  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 21:21:25 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Dennis

Dennis,
Tried to contact Tom about the grille, could not get an answer. As soon as
I can contact him I will send him a picture of the grille. Tell him if you
see him, thanks, apologies too all, don't have an address, must post with
the list.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 22:27:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Re: More '68 Cutlass bucket seat questions...

Thanks. I went and looked and noticed a piece of one left, that's all. I'll
check it out closer. Man, would it be nice if that's all there was to it.

At 09:17 PM 10/21/98 -0400, you wrote:
>One problem with the seats I have is they recline way too much.
>__________
>
>If these are, in fact, GM buckets of late60s/early 70s vintage, there may
>be an easy solution.  Tilt the seatback forward and look at the portion of
>the bottom cushion that the seatback normally rests on.  You should see two
>black plastic bumpers, about 3/4" wide and an inch or so long with rounded
>edges.  These are held on with one screw each.  If they are broken or
>missing, the seat will lean back further than normal.  Repros are available
>from the usual sources.
>
>Note, this is also a neat trick if you _want_ the seat to lean back
>further.  Just remove the bumpers.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 22:56:22 EDT
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Daytona under the lights, 8:00

Hey Lou,
    Hate to take exception, but as a fan/driver, the last thing on anybody's
mind is a crash.
                                              Ron Forsee
                                              65 442-Meister
                                              Bondurant Graduate
                                              Fast Track (Charlotte Motor
Speedway) graduate

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 21:24:36 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: Steering Column and Steering gear question

On Wednesday, October 21, 1998 9:11 PM, S-MAN [SMTP:super442@yahoo.com] wrote:
>
> ----Hi Matt,
>          I'd just replace it....I mean to do any ~real~ rebuilding of
> it, it has to come out anyway. Most any 80's GM ought to work, but I'm
> sure all G-bodys will. As far as the steering gear box goes, spend the
> little extra to get the close ratio one for a 442 or H/O.

Or, one from any car with the F41 suspension.  My Calais has the F41 and the
12.7:1 ratio steering box (the quick one).

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 21:27:46 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: Ticka Ticka (was somethin else)

On Wednesday, October 21, 1998 9:22 PM, Dave Cullen 
[SMTP:david.cullen@snet.net]
wrote: > > They don't make any ticka - ticka noises. Yeah, yeah, they don't 
make
any > power either. I know. But I do get some jollies reveling in the
magnificent > quietness of those roller lifters.

What is this ticking sound?  I always thought it was the rocker arms.
Incidentally, *my* 307 makes no noises whatsoever (with the exception of the
current cracked exhaust manifold...), so I've never actually "heard" this
sound...just lots of reports of it from this list.  :-)  I guess my motor is
just too new (94k miles).  LOL

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 20:31:48 -0700
From: mmborden@m9.sprynet.com
Subject: O/D Transmissions

Any info on an O/D automatic to go behind a '69 455 in a Delta 88
convertible. Will a Chevy 700r4 mate up?
Thanks... ldb

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 23:48:44 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: O/D Transmissions

mmborden@m9.sprynet.com wrote:
>
> Any info on an O/D automatic to go behind a '69 455 in a Delta 88
> convertible. Will a Chevy 700r4 mate up?
> Thanks... ldb

Yeah, but you'll have to get a bellhousing adapter. I'd rather go with a
built 200-4R. It already has a BOP bellhousing and closer gear ratios.

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 20:50:44 -0700
From: mmborden@m9.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: O/D Transmissions

What car/brand typically used that trans??
Thanks... ldb

On Wed, 21 Oct 1998, Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu> wrote:
>mmborden@m9.sprynet.com wrote:
>>
>> Any info on an O/D automatic to go behind a '69 455 in a Delta 88
>> convertible. Will a Chevy 700r4 mate up?
>> Thanks... ldb
>
>Yeah, but you'll have to get a bellhousing adapter. I'd rather go with a
>built 200-4R. It already has a BOP bellhousing and closer gear ratios.
>
>--
>*************
>Matt Cremean
>mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
>+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
>1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
>1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
>1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
>1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
>+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
>http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
>**************************************************
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 23:58:17 EDT
From: TimLeary97@aol.com
Subject: Re: Mileage on 75 Cutlass {old Spark plugs}

Have you investigated a vacuum problem?  Mayble the ignition timing is not
advancing?  Have you noticed a loss of power with the decrease in fuel
efficiency?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 21:09:58 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: O/D Transmissions (long)

Okay, here's the scoop as far as I have learned through the last two
years of investigation. Neither of the more well known o/d trans will
take the power (read: torque) of a 400/455 Olds. We are just too strong
for them. I have emailed Art Carr (www.artcarr.com) and have gotten no
response from him. He has a 200-4r that says it will hold up to 400+ hp,
but no claims of how much torque... If you really want an O/D that you
will be certain will not explode on you, go for the 4l80E. That is
basically a Th-400 with an O/D gear. It's used in alot of GM trucks and
suburbans. As far as the 700R4, It's a crock and lower than the 200-4r
because of the way it's built. There are only a couple years of that
trans that are very strong and even then the gearing isn't that great.
Sure you launch off the line, then when you hit second gear it just
drops the RPMs alot! I used to have an email that listed the gear ratios
of almost all the trans that GM used. I'll look for it. But in any
event, my research has proved that MAYBE the 200-4R will hold up (art
carr wont comment on that) to a mild 400 or even a stock 455. The 4L80E
will for certain, but the O/D isn't as good as the 200-4R. The 200 has
67 O/D the 700 has .69 and I think the 4L80E has.72 (not cerain about
that one)

Just my useless knowledge floating in the vast emptyness of my militant
mind...

Ben

mmborden@m9.sprynet.com wrote:

> Any info on an O/D automatic to go behind a '69 455 in a Delta 88
> convertible. Will a Chevy 700r4 mate up?
> Thanks... ldb

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 21:22:52 -0700
From: mmborden@m9.sprynet.com
Subject: Re: O/D Transmissions (long)

Thanks Ben.. will I need any adaptors that you are aware of??
Thanks... ldb

On Wed, 21 Oct 1998, Ben <olds442@primenet.com> wrote:
>Okay, here's the scoop as far as I have learned through the last two
>years of investigation. Neither of the more well known o/d trans will
>take the power (read: torque) of a 400/455 Olds. We are just too strong
>for them. I have emailed Art Carr (www.artcarr.com) and have gotten no
>response from him. He has a 200-4r that says it will hold up to 400+ hp,
>but no claims of how much torque... If you really want an O/D that you
>will be certain will not explode on you, go for the 4l80E. That is
>basically a Th-400 with an O/D gear. It's used in alot of GM trucks and
>suburbans. As far as the 700R4, It's a crock and lower than the 200-4r
>because of the way it's built. There are only a couple years of that
>trans that are very strong and even then the gearing isn't that great.
>Sure you launch off the line, then when you hit second gear it just
>drops the RPMs alot! I used to have an email that listed the gear ratios
>of almost all the trans that GM used. I'll look for it. But in any
>event, my research has proved that MAYBE the 200-4R will hold up (art
>carr wont comment on that) to a mild 400 or even a stock 455. The 4L80E
>will for certain, but the O/D isn't as good as the 200-4R. The 200 has
>67 O/D the 700 has .69 and I think the 4L80E has.72 (not cerain about
>that one)
>
>Just my useless knowledge floating in the vast emptyness of my militant
>mind...
>
>Ben
>
>mmborden@m9.sprynet.com wrote:
>
>> Any info on an O/D automatic to go behind a '69 455 in a Delta 88
>> convertible. Will a Chevy 700r4 mate up?
>> Thanks... ldb
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 22:33:54 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Karl's breaking back

Or back breaking...  :)

> Periodically during braking the right rear drum will lock fairly easily for
> several minutes, then function normally.

Might be just pad contamination.  Possibly a bad axle seal?

> BTW - manual says brake adjustment can be accomplished by appying a ~certain~
> amount of brake pressure in reverse.
> So, how hard is that?
> Floor it in reverse and then lock 'em up to get a small adjustment??

Close...  Just a fairly hard stop from probably anywhere above 5 mph...
- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 22:38:09 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Importing Vehicles

> Has anyone ever purchased a car from someone in Canada to bring to the
> U.S.?

Never personally done.  A friend brought a 64 Gran Prix down though.  
Apparantly
their ownership is not done through titles up there.  This GP had been a US 
car,
sold to someone up north, who registerred, and the officials there said there
was no need to have that title, so it was thrown away.  Many many ~many~ years
later, resold to a US'er...  But no title.  Car's still sitting in his 
backyard,
unsure of whether it's worth fussing with...

For what it's worth.....

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 02:03:06 EDT
From: Joeytada@aol.com
Subject: Hot Rod Power Tour

Is anyone  in the East coast Power Tour?  I'll be there on Sat. with my GMC
Syclone.  Hope to see someone there.

Keith

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 01:04:24 -0500
From: Albert Meyer <Olds@AustinTX.net>
Subject: Re: 1970 98 Convertible Sheet Metal

I have a 68 98 and I'm having trouble finding all the sheetmetal also. I
don't know if this would work for a 70, but I found the rocker panels I
needed off a Cad. The trim is different but the bodies are the same. Also,
you might want to ask on the GM-fullsize list. It's pretty low-traffic - in
fact I haven't seen a message this week, but it's worth a try.

To subscribe, send mail to majordomo@vampire.org with 'subscribe
gmfullsize' in the body.

I haven't had much luck finding new stuff for my 98. They crushed a lot of
the big cars during the gas shortage (metal prices were high at the same
time) and 98s never were all that popular anyway. There probably aren't
enough of them to make it worth stamping new sheetmetal.

At 10:17 AM 10/19/98 -0400, Greenwood, Jim W wrote:
>
>I'm preparing to repaint my 98 and considering replacing rusted sheet metal
>vice repairing.  I'm trying to track down info on compatibility of 98 metal
>from other years.
>
>Specifically, I am seeking a trunk lid and left front quarter panel.  A junk
>yard here in Virginia had several examples of the 70 98, but they all
>exhibited the same rust patterns.  I did find a 69 98 with clean metal, but
>short of trial and error, don't know if the pieces will fit properly.
>
>Info on the full bodies is scarce, so any help will appreciated.  I am also
>open to new stamps, but the vendors I've checked only offer Cutlass pieces.
>
'68 98 Convertible 455 - Still looking for a parts car
Austin, Texas mailto:Olds@AustinTX.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 00:09:43 -0600
From: "David Litke" <dlitke@bewellnet.com>
Subject: Other four barrels don't work and vaccuume is low (long)

Thanks to everyone who contributed to my being able to solve the problem
with my 72 cutlass supreme.  It would miss majorly after running for about
20-30 minutes.  Someone suggested that a condensor might be out so I went
and bought a $3 set of points and I got a new car.  It now has more power
then when I bought it.  I think the condensor was bad so that killed the
points to.  Even with only 2 barrels it gets up and goes.

Anyway in my quest to fix that problem I took the quadrajet off and ever
since I put it back on  I lose major power when I get into the other four
barrels.  I talked to a guy at checkers and he said that unless I had 20-22
of vaccume at idle I had a vaccume problem and that would keep the other
four barrels from working right.  I checked and I have 15 at idle but it is
pretty steady and just vibrates a little.  If anyone could give me some
ideas on why the engine loses power when engaging the secondary barrels, I
would greatly appreciate it.  One thing that might have been stupid was
when I had the carb apart I rebent the arm that extends from the cam on the
top intake plates and holds the 2 metering rods so that it did not catch on
the carb housing anymore, could that be the problem?  If so could I get
some tips or measurements on how that arm is supposed to be setup.

Last of all, sorry it is so long.  I understand that low vaccume among
other things could mean that the timing is off and I was wondering on the
72 350 where are the timing marks. I'm sure that I am missing something
very obvious, but I looked everywhere (including the chiltons manual) and
couldn't find anything that I thought resembled a set of  timing marks.

------------------------------

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 23:38:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Re: 69 Tail light lens gasket?

The latest Fusick's catalog (29C) lists them as TLLG69 at $6.50 each.

I think they are new in this catalog because I looked for them without
sucesss earlier this year when el niņo made one of my tail lights look like
an aquarium.  I made my own gasket out of body caulking strips and has
worked so far (although it has been fairly dry).

>Is there a supplier of Tail light lens gaskets for a 69 Cutlass? I need
>the gasket that seals the lens to the housing. Year one shows them as
>discontinued.
>
>Thanks
>Mike Baugher
>mb0@americancentury.com



Lloyd Ferguson
Glendale, California
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

1969 Cutlass Convertible
1984 Buick Riviera

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 06:38:48 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Re: 1970 98 Convertible Sheet Metal

The "s*bscribe" word bounced this; forwarding.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Albert Meyer <Olds@AustinTX.net>
Subject: Re: 1970 98 Convertible Sheet Metal

I have a 68 98 and I'm having trouble finding all the sheetmetal also. I
don't know if this would work for a 70, but I found the rocker panels I
needed off a Cad. The trim is different but the bodies are the same. Also,
you might want to ask on the GM-fullsize list. It's pretty low-traffic - in
fact I haven't seen a message this week, but it's worth a try.

To s*bscribe, send mail to majordomo@vampire.org with 's*bscribe
gmfullsize' in the body.

I haven't had much luck finding new stuff for my 98. They crushed a lot of
the big cars during the gas shortage (metal prices were high at the same
time) and 98s never were all that popular anyway. There probably aren't
enough of them to make it worth stamping new sheetmetal.

'68 98 Convertible 455 - Still looking for a parts car
Austin, Texas mailto:Olds@AustinTX.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 07:24:29 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Soylent's brakes

>Periodically during braking the right rear drum will lock fairly easily for
>several minutes, then function normally. Car has been pulling slightly left
>during braking.


Definitely sounds like brake drum coated with foreign material. Either oil
from the axle or brake fluid from cylinder. Should be obvious when you get
it apart.


>Is the brake shoe adjusted too tightly?


It's gettin stuck. Needs to be fixed. Don't want SOM (or Karl) to get hurt
:-(

>Need to do a brake adjustment to get the other three tighter?


One bad wheel, 3 good ones.

>BTW - manual says brake adjustment can be accomplished by appying a
~certain~
>amount of brake pressure in reverse.
>So, how hard is that?
>Floor it in reverse and then lock 'em up to get a small adjustment??


Maybe 5 mph, then hard brake. No need to lock em up. Repeat  3 - 4 times.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 07:36:20 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Ping -- Ignition vs. Octane

>I'm a real rookie with these motors, so please bear with me. 'Having
trouble
>eliminating the pings from my engine (just rebuilt 71 455 in a 4-4-2) on
>acceleration, even mild acceleration.

If you've already tried 94 octane and it still pings, I'd look elsewhere.
Unless you have really high compression. A lean mixture will also make a
motor ping. Check your plugs. White insulators, maybe with pink blotches,
will indicate lean mixture and hot combustion chambers.

Vacuum leaks, fuel starvation, under-carburetted, etc.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 07:32:09 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: of carbs and ignitions

>
.  It would miss majorly after running for about
.  Someone suggested that a condensor might be out so I went
>and bought a $3 set of points and I got a new car.  .


   My thoughts on this problem - I have fixed more caruretors with a set of
points,plugs,
cap and rotor than I can remember -


The General








>
>

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1564
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