Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1544


oldsmobile-digest     Saturday, October 10 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1544



Parts...
Re: 28,000 mile 70 Cutlass Supreme F/S
Youthful Mistake
RE:  HOOD ORNAMENTS
RE: Karls Rochester Page
Re: Youthful Mistake
olds crushes f*rd... again, but...
Re: Youthful Mistake
Re: 1969 442
Two or Three questions
UNBOUNCE: Rear End Codes
Found on USENET
UNBOUNCE: Pulling Windshield
UNBOUNCE: Need '64 Drums
UNBOUNCE: Muncie M21 for sale
New Brunswick Bumpers
Re: Karls Rochester Page
Re: Roanoke//W-B PA classifieds
Re: connecting rods
Re: UNBOUNCE: Pulling Windshield
Re: Two or Three questions
Re: Digital Dash in a G
HTML....
Re: One mans conquest with an Oldsmobile.
Gateway computers, non-Olds
Re: RocketTalk tomorrow?)
Re: G-Body Rear disks
Re: Rocket talk
Olds Cutlasss Sup. 3.4 1991
RE: Digital Dash in a G
RE: Digital Dash in a G
Re: Trunk molding
RE: Trunk molding
Re: olds crushes f*rd... again, but...thats Mach 1
Re: Digital Dash in a G
RE: Digital Dash in a G
UNBOUNCE: Need '67 FS Power Seat Mechanism
Hood Scoops And Engine Heat
RE: Digital Dash in a G
Wanted: 86 442 Rim
New  Gauges in
RE: Hood Scoops And Engine Heat
RE: Gateway computers, non-Olds
Re: UNBOUNCE: Pulling Windshield
Re: Digital Dash in a G
Re: Hood Scoops And Engine Heat

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 13:10:06 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Parts...

Private owner, (non list member), has a good 1974 442 hood to swap (or sell
outright) for a 1967 442 hood (looking).

Also has 1968 Rally Pac gauge set (get this) still in a dash section with
good dash pad intact $500.00 whole piece.

He has other Rally Pac gauge assemblies but must pull from attic to verify
year condition etc.

Has fair shape set of 1974 442 grills (black I think).

Has other Olds goodies to be sorted through. Will apprise when I know more.
Contact me directly.

Located in the NE tip of Catskill Mts, apx 30 mi. south of Albany
- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
  
'86 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS = "Quincy"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 10:41:26 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: 28,000 mile 70 Cutlass Supreme F/S

>Hi gang,
>      Todays adventure begins with a 70 Cutlass Supreme....it has
>28,000 original miles,brand new motor with less than 500 miles on it.
>This is a numbers matching, 2nd owner car. The asking price is
>$4500.00 obo.
>If interested contact me direct.

Why would a 28,000 mile car be on its 2nd engine?
If it is a brand new engine how is it #'s matching?

curiouser and curiouser.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 13:54:56 -0400
From: "Timothy M. Cardinal" <cardtm53@BUFFALOSTATE.EDU>
Subject: Youthful Mistake

Dear List,

    I am a new member to this list and I have a sad story to share with
everyone.  When I was 17
years old (summer before my senior year of high school / I graduated in
1991) I was ready to purchase my first
vehicle.  I couldn't wait to tap into 5 years worth of paper route
money.  My father stumbled
onto a 1980 olds cutlass supreme.  An older gentleman who rarely drove
the car had passed
away and his family wanted to "unload" the car.  The car had only 3,300
miles on it.  So I bought it!
This car was in immaculate condition.  It looked like a brand new car.
If  I knew then what I know
now, I would have put the car in storage or something.  However, I fell
in love with the car and I always managed to
take really good care of the car over the years.  Now, eight years
later, 63,00 miles and seven Buffalo, New York winters (freezing temps,
snow, salt, slush,....) - age has started to catch up with this car.
The car still looks really good, but it needs work.  For example, this
car still has the original, defective factory bumpers that always rotted
away on this particular make/model. The bottom of the car/frame  is also
starting to rust/rott even though it is in storage.  I do not know much
about cars, but I now want to restore this vehicle to its original
condition.  I'm not really sure what to do first.  Can someone please
help me get started.  Maybe someone can refer me to a person from my
region who could  help me and point me in the
right direction.  I am from Buffalo, New York (Go Bills!!!     Go
Sabres!!!).

- --
Timothy M. Cardinal

80 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 13:46:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tom Lardner <lardner@UMDNJ.EDU>
Subject: RE:  HOOD ORNAMENTS

  This message is in MIME format.  The first part should be readable text,
  while the remaining parts are likely unreadable without MIME-aware tools.
  Send mail to mime@docserver.cac.washington.edu for more info.

- --NAA01582.908041157/rwja.UMDNJ.EDU
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Content-ID: <Pine.HPP.3.96.981010134613.2103C@rwja.UMDNJ.EDU>



- --NAA01582.908041157/rwja.UMDNJ.EDU
Content-Type: MESSAGE/DELIVERY-STATUS
Content-ID: <Pine.HPP.3.96.981010134613.2103D@rwja.UMDNJ.EDU>
Content-Description:

Reporting-MTA: dns; rwja.UMDNJ.EDU
Received-From-MTA: DNS; rwja.UMDNJ.EDU
Arrival-Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 13:39:15 -0400 (EDT)

Final-Recipient: RFC822; oldsmobile@chebutco.ns.ca
Action: failed
Status: 5.1.2
Remote-MTA: DNS; chebutco.ns.ca
Last-Attempt-Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 13:39:17 -0400 (EDT)

- --NAA01582.908041157/rwja.UMDNJ.EDU
Content-Type: MESSAGE/RFC822
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Content-Description:

Return-Path: <lardner@umdnj.edu>
Received: from rwja.UMDNJ.EDU (lardner@rwja.UMDNJ.EDU [130.219.4.100])
	by rwja.UMDNJ.EDU (8.8.6 (PHNE_14041)/8.8.6) with SMTP id NAA01579
	for <oldsmobile@chebutco.ns.ca>; Sat, 10 Oct 1998 13:39:15 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 13:39:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tom Lardner <lardner@umdnj.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebutco.ns.ca
Subject: RE:  HOOD ORNAMENTS
Message-ID: <Pine.HPP.3.96.981010133834.1183A-100000@rwja.UMDNJ.EDU>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

if anyone needs the 85-88 hood ornaments, I have a quantity of them, and
will sell them for $20 SHIPPED
Tom



- --NAA01582.908041157/rwja.UMDNJ.EDU--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 13:48:00 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Karls Rochester Page

<Snip>

<>The School ofHard Knocks is no fun to attend.

<G>

Ahhh, but the greasiest education you can get. Things learned by osmosis are
the longest (endeared/hated) remembered.

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
  
'86 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS = "Quincy"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 14:09:00 EDT
From: MNManiac@aol.com
Subject: Re: Youthful Mistake

In a message dated 98-10-10 13:47:22 EDT, you write:

<< This car was in immaculate condition.  It looked like a brand new car.
 If  I knew then what I know
 now, I would have put the car in storage or something.  However, I fell
 in love with the car and I always managed to
 take really good care of the car over the years.  Now, eight years
 later, 63,00 miles and seven Buffalo, New York winters (freezing temps,
 snow, salt, slush,....) >>

Sounds like my parents.  In 1991, they inherited Grandpa's 1978 Supreme
Brougham with 34,000 miles and in perfect shape.  Grandpa lived in ND (no road
salt), they live in Minneapolis (major road salt.)  I begged and pleaded with
them to let me have it in FL, but to no avail.  Now, it still has only 75,000
miles on it, but it's basically shot.  A $500 car.

- -Drew in Windy Western Kansas-

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 14:15:11 EDT
From: WOODY3781@aol.com
Subject: olds crushes f*rd... again, but...

I never suspected it would be me. This only happened minutes ago. I was
approaching the Throggs Neck bridge  when a circa 1969 mock  one  abusively
jockeyed for position, as we got closer he expressed his disdain for my 4-door
cutlass, saying it was not a cutlass but a cut below. We hit the booths at
same time, I only heard him chirp once as I watched him get
smaller in my rearview mirror. I don't normally do these sort of things as I
have a few grandchildren running around. I mean, how would it look!!!
350 w/2.56 gears, shouldn't happen, right?

wood
70 cutlass( 4-door cut below)
73 delta convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 11:17:31 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Youthful Mistake

>  I do not know much
>about cars, but I now want to restore this vehicle to its original
>condition.  I'm not really sure what to do first.  Can someone please
>help me get started.  Maybe someone can refer me to a person from my
>region who could  help me and point me in the
>right direction.  I am from Buffalo, New York (Go Bills!!!     Go
>Sabres!!!).

Learn to weld. Honestly.
frame work is REALLY expencive. a good Victor or off-brand oxy/acetlyne
set-up with small portable tanks is only $300 or so. You obviously have a
place to store the car so you have a good place to work.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 15:02:55 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 1969 442

But apparently A/C
was only available on cars with automatics.
______

Actually, this is not quite true (I made the same incorrect assumption).
It turns out that in 1969, A/C was not available with the close-ratio four
speed M-21, but it _was_ available with the M-20 wide-ratio four speed (in
addition to the AT).  Bob Iozia has a picture of his factory-ordered A/C
four speed 69 442 on Bryceman's page.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 15:19:39 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Two or Three questions

First....

I got this NOS H/O license plate still in the sealed GM bag.  It's p/n
22520895.  It's silver with black/red "shadowed" "looking "Hurst/Olds".
It's trimmed in red/black outline.  I figure it's for an 84?  Any clue?

Two....

I remember someone saying there was a gold paint off the shelf that was
a very good match for the 85-87 442 wheels.  I'm having a dog of a time
finding the paint code for them.  Anyone got anything on this?

Also, I would like to be able to find a driver's side OUTER retractable
belt assembly in medium dark gray (code 82) for the gray 85 442.  Anyone
got one in real good shape they don't need?

Thanks in advance,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 16:26:13 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Rear End Codes

Not on the list, respond to haywood@connection.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Mark & Sandra Haywood <haywood@connection.com>
Subject: rear end codes

I'm trying to determine the gear ratio of an Olds rear end with the
following serial numbers - 6-6A0-182.  Can anyone help?

Thanks
Mark Haywood

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 15:27:34 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Found on USENET

Found below info on Usenet..Thought it might be of interest to some..!!
Especially our friends to the North.

Mike.......................

"In my quest for bumpers for my rebuild project I came across a source of
about 1000 or so bumpers in storage and for sale. Some are new, some
rechromed and range from fair to excellent condition and from the 60's,
70's and 80's. If you need a bumper for your car, email me and I will
forward you the information, or you can email Jim Murray at
murray@auracom.com    ...This place is located in Southeastern New
Brunswick Canada should you be wondering about location and shipping. ."
.
Dave D. davidd@nbnet.nb.ca

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 16:27:40 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Pulling Windshield

This bounced because of the word "get". A new majordomo surprise.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	MB0 <MB0@americancentury.com>
Subject: Should I or shouldn't I pull that windshield....

I am contemplating the idea of pulling my windshield (69 Cutlass
convertible) in order to prep the surrounding metal and paint. The left
corner of the dash is pretty rusty just at the bottom edge of the
windshield, and having the glass out would certainly make it easier to
g*t to.

 My first thought was to work slowly at pulling the glass myself and
then having it professionally reinstalled when I've completed the
planned work. Most of the glass companies I called won't guarantee that
they won't break the glass upon removal. Personally, I'd rather be
p!ssed at myself for breaking it, because I'm sure I'd be more careful
to avoid the possibility than a pro, although the pro is a pro....sorry,
rambling.


Any advice??

Thanks a  Deltaload (that's quite a bit)!
Mike Baugher

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 16:29:00 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Need '64 Drums

Not on the list, respond to Jose.Trejo@pactel.COM if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Jose.Trejo@pactel.COM
Subject: Drums

Does anyone have or know of any place where I can get some drums for a 1964
F-85/Cutlass????  Like an idiot, I went through mine.......AGAIN!!!!  Also,
the front right and left fender wheel well mouldings......though right now
the drums are A LOT more important!!!!.  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 16:30:12 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Muncie M21 for sale

Not on the list, respond to olds442@cgo.wave.ca if interested.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	olds442@cgo.wave.ca
Subject: Muncie M21 for sale

M21 for sale, out of 68-69 Chevelle, small chip on corner of 1st gear,
$400, $450 w/bellhousing & linkage. Ontario residents only please.
Please reply to mailto:olds442@cgo.wave.ca

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 16:35:34 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: New Brunswick Bumpers

I was talking to this guy a while back (I'm assuming it's the same
fellow). A rechrome shop in New Brunswick went bust years ago and this is
their old stock. Some oddball stuff. I saw some samples that looked fine,
but I'm told others have shelf wear. They have a front for my '78 Delta if
I want to spend $100-$150 bucks.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 12:39:56 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Karls Rochester Page

> Growth will be slow, FC's page templates SUCK! so Karl gonna learn HTML
> orinstall a html page editor.
> http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/

Karl, I can help you, and many people on this list I am certain know HTML. OR
You can help yourself. Goto
http://www.htmlgoodies.com
That site is how I started on my HTML knowledge just check out my site to see
what you think
http://www.primenet.com/~olds442/index3.html
as well as my always forsale 62 and I NEED TO SEEL IT NOW!!! I need the money!
http://www.primenet.com/~olds442/forsale.html

Thanks, and good luck.
Ben

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 15:58:23 -0400
From: dclover@epix.net
Subject: Re: Roanoke//W-B PA classifieds

Maybe there should be a site for all of these old Olds' for sale!

Classifieds from the Wilkes-Barre PA area papers:

		OLDS '70 442 Conv
		auto, 455, #'s match, compl frame off restore
		$10,900.  P/up or quad trade consider
		717-388-2935

Have not seen the car, either at shows or from this ad.

And I can't afford it---(I'm still trying to rework my Cutlass conv)
but maybe someone else is interested.

GOOD LUCK!!

Dan Jones

'70 Cutlass Supreme Convert

> Hope someone will find a home for these Olds....!!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 15:28:36 -0500
From: "Tracy H. Shires" <twodogs@ou.edu>
Subject: Re: connecting rods

At 12:53 AM 10/10/98 -0300, you wrote:

>Is there a special tool to take the nuts of the connecting rods on a

>400 block.Can`t seem to get a socket to fit.


If memory serves correctly you have to use a 12 point socket, the 6 points 
won't
fit on right...


By the way how do you get a

>steel bolt out of a aluminum intake.


Ahhhh, this is my worst nightmare. As a side note never put steel plugs on an
aluminum mainfold.. The different thermal properties between the steel and
aluminum make them almost impossible to remove after a few years of cyclic
thermal loading - at least without destroying something. I'd try a lot of
penetrating oil, light taps with a hammer, a ractchet with a long handle and a
socket that fits perfectly.. It'll either come out or break..

Also- put some thread tape on the bolt upon reinstallation - it'll make it a 
lot
easier to come out next time around.


Hope this helps...






T. H. Shires				81 C/S/B Rckt 350

Denton, Tx				    3 Sticks

					

mailto:TwoDogs@ou.edu		


<bold>University of Oklahoma

</bold><italic><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param>Mechanical
Engineering

</color></italic>


"If it was put together, it can be taken apart."

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 13:20:04 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Pulling Windshield

>This bounced because of the word "get". A new majordomo surprise.

Bummer :(

>
>Any advice??
>
If you don't allready have one g*t a windshield removal tool. basicly a
metal stick
with a hook on one end , with a cable hooked to it.
You can guide the tool with one hand  while pulling with the other.

Harbor freight has them for about $10.00.
Also pick up a couple of suction cups.

>Thanks a  Deltaload (that's quite a bit)!
Not as much as a Vistaload :)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 13:31:53 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Two or Three questions

Mike Rothe. wrote:

> First....
>
> I got this NOS H/O license plate still in the sealed GM bag.  It's p/n
> 22520895.  It's silver with black/red "shadowed" "looking "Hurst/Olds".
> It's trimmed in red/black outline.  I figure it's for an 84?  Any clue?

Mike,
22520895 fits the 83 Hurst/Olds
22525040 fits the 84 Hurst/Olds

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 15:48:11 -0500
From: "Tracy H. Shires" <twodogs@ou.edu>
Subject: Re: Digital Dash in a G

e HUD was a

>~serios~ butcher job.  For digital dashes, I'd strongly recommend taking a
stock

>rallye guage package, and use Cyberdyne or equivalent individual guages, and 
go

>from there.  Should be a fairly clean project, actually, with very little

>butcherring.  The only thing would be mounting the guages in the housing.  No

>biggie.  Be prepared to shell out around $350 for the common guages, though.

>And get pics if you do it, I've been dying to do the same on mine for 
years...

>no $$$ :(

>

>

>

>--

>Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|

>mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |

>http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |

>   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<<||=|  |   |   |

>    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |

>     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |

>  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|


I've done a little prospecting down this road as well...I agree completely.. 
The
cheapest and least butchering way to get digital guages is to go with
aftermarket like intellitronix or cyberdyne..Both make premade cluster panels
that would probably work.. Ufornately they don't give the exact dimensions.. 
The
rally pack cluster gauges are too small so you would have to fabricate a new
mounting pad for the gauges. Doing this you could make a large variety a gauge
configurations. I am planning on making a center speedo w/ three 2.25 gauges on
each side..


It would be VERY unique and clean looking.. As soon as I get myself more $$$ -
and my motor running for that matter...




T. H. Shires				81 C/S/B Rckt 350

Denton, Tx				    3 Sticks

					

mailto:TwoDogs@ou.edu		


<bold>University of Oklahoma

</bold><italic><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param>Mechanical
Engineering

</color></italic>


"If it was put together, it can be taken apart."

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 15:55:07 -0500
From: "Tracy H. Shires" <twodogs@ou.edu>
Subject: HTML....

Just wanted to apologize to the list.. Just realized that Eudora also does html
encoding even though it's not listed as such and there are no setting.. I think
I have it all cleaned up now.., but if not - drop me a line...




T. H. Shires				81 C/S/B Rckt 350

Denton, Tx				    3 Sticks

					

mailto:TwoDogs@ou.edu		


University of Oklahoma

Mechanical Engineering



"If it was put together, it can be taken apart."

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 07:56:37 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: One mans conquest with an Oldsmobile.

Not to repeat myself, but I've changed those pumps many times in many
different states in parking lots and truck stops.  Yeah, what a pain in
the arse!  I'm pretty good at it now, and can get it done before I get
2nd degree sunburn on the back of my neck...

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 08:09:29 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Gateway computers, non-Olds

Which reminds me....

Has anyone had any experience with that lease a computer from Gateway
deal, and get trade-in value at the end of the contract, etc.  A computer
seems like the only thing logical to lease since it'll suck in a couple
of years anyway...  opinions?  Thanks

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 07:52:12 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: RocketTalk tomorrow?)

On Thu, 08 Oct 1998 19:39:47 +0100 Matt Cremean
<creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu> writes:

>them, but you NEVER just see a '73 driving down the road...well...not
>as
>often as you'd see the 68-72's, which is a rare occasion in itself.
>
Yeah, Matt, there's definitely something to be said about a non-ordinary
car.  Your car is multi-level diferent (1-not Chevy, 2-not Ford, 3-not
Mopar, 4-not Pontiac, 5-not 68-72 Olds...).

I notice you also have a Caprice.  My first car was an 80 Caprice Classic
Brougham.  White w' black interior.  Power Everything, 4bbl 305, etc.
Oh, I loved that car soooo much.

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 08:03:55 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: G-Body Rear disks

No, but have you seen the latest Car Craft?...check it out!

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

On Thu, 8 Oct 1998 21:08:27 -0400 "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS"
<gjcouse@francomm.com> writes:
>Anyone have experience with setting up disk brakes on a G-Body rear?
>
>----Regards,
>
>Gary J. Couse
>Couse Custom
>ICQ# 5209322
>gjcouse@francomm.com
>  
>'86 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS = "Quincy"
>
>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 08:06:50 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Rocket talk

Some of us only have web access at work or at other certain times.  Until
our cheap a$ses get hooked up at home.  I use a laptop at home becasue
our regular computer is too slow for the internet.  The laptop has bad
resolution, or whatever, so it's not good for checking out everyon'e
Oldses!

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

On Thu, 08 Oct 1998 22:51:39 -0400 Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net> writes:
>What? No talkers?
>
>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 17:28:15 -0000
From: "Peter van der Wijngaard" <forwine@cgocable.net>
Subject: Olds Cutlasss Sup. 3.4 1991

Hi guys,

Does anyone have a good address for parts I am looking for a time-belt cover
for my 1991 Cutlass Supreme 3.4?

Thanks a lot

Peter Toronto

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 17:53:42 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Digital Dash in a G

OK, Huummm. Bear with me here. Why would I want to destroy an original Rally
Pac for a G-Body with modern digital gauges. The Rally Pac for G-Body is but
a singular flat face Plate with the separate gauge indicators printed on
that face plate. The gauge needles protruding the face plate to point to
that specific gauge markings. I can build a separate behind face plate
mounting carrier to hold the new digital gauges. Taking the cars original
Speedo face plate, (non Rally Pac), Remove and dissemble the original Speedo
assembly. Than cut corresponding holes into this original Speedo face plate
that matches the fabricated housing I have the digital gauges in. Paint the
original face plate say flat black and assemble this reworked face plate
onto my created gauge housing slipping the new digital gauge face through
their corresponding wholes I cut. Since I've used the original face plate I
also have a guide to create the new behind gauge holder. This will create a
complete assembly that should flop back into the dash in it's original
location and mounts. Of course the original directional flasher indicators.
Ditto should I wish to reintroduce any idiot (Oops) warning lights can be
reinserted in any fashion desirable. Only question is that of space, gauge
count-position, and original assembly mounts to dash.

Huummm. With a little tweaking, I think I'll create a custom digital dash
for the Cutlass IROC-SS line.

- ----Regards,


Gary J. Couse

Couse Custom

gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>



"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass Brougham


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Tracy H. Shires
Subject: Re: Digital Dash in a G


e HUD was a
>~serios~ butcher job. For digital dashes, I'd strongly recommend taking a
stock
>rallye guage package, and use Cyberdyne or equivalent individual guages,
and go
>from there. Should be a fairly clean project, actually, with very little
>butcherring. The only thing would be mounting the guages in the housing. No
>biggie. Be prepared to shell out around $350 for the common guages, though.
>And get pics if you do it, I've been dying to do the same on mine for
years...
>no $$$ :(
>Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\ |-------|

<Next>
I've done a little prospecting down this road as well...I agree completely..
The cheapest and least butchering way to get digital guages is to go with
aftermarket like intellitronix or cyberdyne..Both make premade cluster
panels that would probably work.. Ufornately they don't give the exact
dimensions.. The rally pack cluster gauges are too small so you would have
to fabricate a new mounting pad for the gauges. Doing this you could make a
large variety a gauge configurations. I am planning on making a center
speedo w/ three 2.25 gauges on each side..

It would be VERY unique and clean looking.. As soon as I get myself more
$$$ - and my motor running for that matter...



T. H. Shires 81 C/S/B Rckt 350
Denton, Tx 3 Sticks

mailto:TwoDogs@ou.edu

University of Oklahoma
Mechanical Engineering


"If it was put together, it can be taken apart."

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 15:00:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Digital Dash in a G

- ---"Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com> wrote:
>
> OK, Huummm. Bear with me here. Why would I want to destroy an
original Rally
> Pac for a G-Body with modern digital gauges. The Rally Pac for
G-Body is but
> a singular flat face Plate with the separate gauge indicators
printed on
> that face plate. The gauge needles protruding the face plate to
point to
> that specific gauge markings. I can build a separate behind face plate
> mounting carrier to hold the new digital gauges. Taking the cars
original
> Speedo face plate, (non Rally Pac), Remove and dissemble the
original Speedo
> assembly. Than cut corresponding holes into this original Speedo
face plate
> that matches the fabricated housing I have the digital gauges in.
Paint the
> original face plate say flat black and assemble this reworked face
plate
> onto my created gauge housing slipping the new digital gauge face
through
> their corresponding wholes I cut. Since I've used the original face
plate I
> also have a guide to create the new behind gauge holder. This will
create a
> complete assembly that should flop back into the dash in it's original
> location and mounts. Of course the original directional flasher
indicators.
> Ditto should I wish to reintroduce any idiot (Oops) warning lights
can be
> reinserted in any fashion desirable. Only question is that of space,
gauge
> count-position, and original assembly mounts to dash.
>
> Huummm. With a little tweaking, I think I'll create a custom digital
dash
> for the Cutlass IROC-SS line.

- ----Already ahead of you....been working on mine for a couple
months,except using VDO cocpit guages:)
==
John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com
  ICQ # 16956740      Lithia Springs, Ga.
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 18:24:54 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Trunk molding

Todd

Sorry for not getting back to you about the chrome.  I have been
hospitalized with kidney problems.
I had a type of surgery this week.  As soon as I am more mobile I will take
the chrome off and the vinyl strip.

Thanks

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)


- ----------
> From: todd thomas <ttjbmm@webtv.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Trunk molding
> Date: Monday, October 05, 1998 7:36 PM
>
> Would anyone on the list know where I could find a good a set of chrome
> molding for the bottom edge of the trunk lid? I am not even sure if the
> car is suppost to have them or not. thanks in advance
> Todd Thomas
> 1972w30
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 18:38:25 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Trunk molding

Sorry to hear Robert. Rest up and get well.

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
  
'86 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS = "Quincy"

<>-----Original Message-----
<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Robert Schinkel
<>Sent: Saturday, October 10, 1998 6:25 PM
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<>Subject: Re: Trunk molding
<>
<>
<>Todd
<>
<>Sorry for not getting back to you about the chrome.  I have been
<>hospitalized with kidney problems.
<>I had a type of surgery this week.  As soon as I am more mobile I
<>will take
<>the chrome off and the vinyl strip.
<>
<>Thanks
<>
<>Robert Schinkel
<>docbob@caninet.com
<>Niagara Falls, Canada
<>905-357-4454
<>1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 18:38:32 EDT
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: olds crushes f*rd... again, but...thats Mach 1

In a message dated 10/10/98 2:16:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
WOODY3781@aol.com writes:

<< 1969 mock  one  >>
UH, that's Mach 1..........in addition to my 3 67 Olds "a-bodies" I have an 86
Salon and flying to Detroit MI tomorrow to check out a 86 442. Your always
entitled to your opinion, just like I'll always defend one of the best looking
cars of all time,  my 69 Mach 1 390 4-spd. White/black int.

Bernie.......NJ

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 18:39:57 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <jlabay@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: Re: Digital Dash in a G

Hmmm, I imagine a digital dash from a T-Type or Grand National would be a 
direct
swap in. The whole Buick dash should use similar or near similar mounting holes
as the Olds dash. I have also seen a 3rd generation Camaro Berlinetta's digital
dash in an 86 Cutlass.  The car was a highly customized show car though.

Jason Labay  Akron, OH jlabay@neo.lrun.com
http://home.neo.lrun.com/jlabay

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 18:46:08 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Digital Dash in a G

I'm not familiar with the GN  or T-type Digital dashes. Have any URL's that
I might view and update thoughts from.

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
  
'86 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS = "Quincy"

<>-----Original Message-----
<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Jason P. Labay
<>Sent: Saturday, October 10, 1998 6:40 PM
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<>Subject: Re: Digital Dash in a G
<>
<>
<>
<>Hmmm, I imagine a digital dash from a T-Type or Grand National
<>would be a direct swap in. The whole Buick dash should
<>use similar or near similar mounting holes as the Olds dash. I
<>have also seen a 3rd generation Camaro Berlinetta's
<>digital dash in an 86 Cutlass.  The car was a highly customized
<>show car though.
<>
<>Jason Labay  Akron, OH jlabay@neo.lrun.com
<>http://home.neo.lrun.com/jlabay
<>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 19:52:45 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Need '67 FS Power Seat Mechanism

Respond to PROMISQS@aol.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	PROMISQS@aol.com
Subject: 67Olds98 Convert

Digest Bunch,
Need the mechanical guts for a bench power seat, most of all the jackscrew
that runs the seat foward and back on the passanger side, and associated
hardware. This is just a 2 way front back power seat.........any takers????

Bill
promisqs@aol.com

67Olds98 Convert

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 18:55:31 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Hood Scoops And Engine Heat

Gary Crouse writes:

<Hood scoops can be used to vent out hot air as in Quincy, I'm using an IROC
scoop to effect a negative pressure between it and the wind shield that sucks
out the engine heat...>

With all due respect, I doubt that this setup would "suck" out underhood heat.
The base of the windshield is actually a high pressure area, that's why NASCAR
Stock cars duct their air cleaners to there and the old Ch*v*ll* Cowl
Induction hoods worked.  Now the place that MIGHT (I don't know for sure) work
would be the sides of the front fenders like the rear-facing scoops on the old
T/A's.  If properly ducted, this might do some good.

Didin't mean this as a flame, and I think the work you're doing is great, but
wouldn't want you to work your tail off and get no benefit.  Duct this area to
the air cleaner and it will help the engine get cooler outside air at a
slightly more than ambient pressure.

Keep up the good work, and Take Care!
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 18:58:10 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Digital Dash in a G

<Snip>

- ----Already ahead of you....been working on mine for a couple
months,except using VDO cocpit gauges:)
==
John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com
  ICQ # 16956740      Lithia Springs, Ga.

<G>

Yeap, Just as I thought. Complicated yet simple to visualize/effect. Contact
directly as you proceed. Well work on them together. Since you've got a
start you can tell me your pitfalls like, "Oops, shouldn't have clipped that
there. If I only had a 1/4" more." I'll head out this week and pull a Speedo
unit and start dissembling. Got a little time coming up to play, err,
create. Yeap, good old NY winter
- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
  
'86 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS = "Quincy"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 18:50:13 -0500
From: "Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
Subject: Wanted: 86 442 Rim

I received a request from Shirley Morris for help locating a rim for her
son's 86 442.
Please respond to stttmorris@webtv.net if you can help. Thanks

Original Message:

  My son has an 86 442 and one of the wheels is rusted on the inside.
The tire keeps loosing air pressure.  Do you know of anyone that has one
of these wheels for sale?

Shirley

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 19:56:36 EDT
From: RAC5419@aol.com
Subject: New  Gauges in

Thanks to all who responded to my question last Saturday regarding the oil
pressure sending switch by AutoMeter. I put it in the 72 442 convertible with
350 4bbl. today using a 1.5" brass extension and coupler from Ace Hardware as
suggested. The pressure as I suspected reads well below the ranges Peter
suggested as typical.
                   typical                 actual
cold idle:       30 - 40 psi.         15-20
hot driving:     40                      15 without accelerating; 25-35
accelerating
hot idle          15                      3-10

The above hot was with the temperature between 180 and 200. I've got 20W-50
Mobil Oil in the engine.

The plan from day one (bought it in July 98) was to rebuild the engine and
I've got 3 potential sources, one in Hammond IND, the others in Darien and
Rockdale IL.

Originally was going to wait till next winter (99-2000), but may start this
winter since I don't want to miss driving next summer. I just don't think its
worth pushing it with these psi numbers. But if its going to be rebuilt anyway
can any damage be done that can't be corrected? With better pressure I would
more than likely wait a year to save some more $$$ before starting this
project (2 kids in college too).

One more thing I found at Ace that I'll be back for more of... they carry the
slitted flexible plastic tubing that the wiring can go into in various sizes
and colors(got 1/4" black for the gauge wires @ $0.49 per foot).

My brother got a scanner and I'll get some pictures soon. It really looks good
from over 20 feet away!!!

Dick Compton
72 442 convertible



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 20:13:12 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Hood Scoops And Engine Heat

<Snip>

With all due respect, I doubt that this setup would "suck" out Under hood
heat.
The base of the windshield is actually a high pressure area, that's why
NASCAR
Stock cars duct their air cleaners to there and the old Ch*v*ll* Cowl
Induction hoods worked.  Now the place that MIGHT (I don't know for sure)
work
would be the sides of the front fenders like the rear-facing scoops on the
old
T/A's.  If properly ducted, this might do some good.

Didin't mean this as a flame, and I think the work you're doing is great,
but
wouldn't want you to work your tail off and get no benefit.  Duct this area
to
the air cleaner and it will help the engine get cooler outside air at a
slightly more than ambient pressure.

Keep up the good work, and Take Care!
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

<G>

No ill respect taken. You are correct. The windshield is a positive area. I
need to explain further as the the system I effected to understand how I
ment an air scoop can be used to vent hot engine compartment air.

 Now visualize further. This is not an IROC scoop that has two sets of
louvers. When looking at the top of an IROC scoop, One sees Two scooped
sections that run from apx. 1/3 total scoop front to the back rib (lip) of
the total scoop frame. These Two relief's/channels , (for a better way to
put it), deepen as they extend to the total scoop back frame/lip. A small
pocket exists at the back of each relief apx. 2 1/2" deep and 4" wide. When
this small back wall of these relief's is removed you make this relief a
sort of ventry that directs a focused steam of air into the windshield base.
All this happens over protected openings within the engine hood. The focused
air streams create a vacuum over these hood openings. Thus sucking engine
compartment hot air up and out of the protected holes. Remember, the Cutlass
IROC-SS has full wrapping ground effects package and a general lowering of
stature by 1 1/2". Hence restricting under car air flow. Hence less engine
compartment air turbulence in the incoming radiator air flow. The speed of
which air flow moves at the same rate as the above mentioned scoop's ability
to draw that air out, the cars speed. The more of this air I can move out of
the top of the car and the less that's left to flow out under, effects the
down force grip of the car. I played last night and I could literally sense
the car squat/grip the road at 100+

One other aspect is the large front air dam forces the nose down as it
redirects the on coming air flow around rather than under. This dam houses a
central mouth opening of apx. 6" x 20". In which I hand formed a galvanized
sheet metal box, (angled back corner edge) with a central palladium that
directs incoming air to 2 angled rear ports that forces the incoming cold
exterior air up through twin 3" ducting, (either side of engine compartment.
These attach to their respective sides of a custom 16" x 16" x 3" air
cleaner receiver created from the same metal. This is now a closed intake
tract of cold forced air for the engine to breath. This effectively raises
the engine HP directly relationally to the cold of the exterior air and the
possible positive pressure forcing more ox. per cylinder intake charge. This
also removes the engines direct air flow feed out of the engine compartment
ambient air, (radiator) flow. I'll be doing more testing over the winter.
I'm also considering creating an intercooler utilizing the cars A/C to
reduce intake air temp. Thus increasing engine HP. The A/C charges (chills)
the intercooler (air passing through) at all times except near/at WOT. Oh,
I'm also considering a top end street machine with twin turbo. With the
proper forged engine components and a whiff of nitrous, near 1,000 hp can be
achieved from a properly prepped 403, err 409 setup. Unsure as yet what kind
of Olds torque will be made. Now if I can only locate a cache of those non
open web blocks. More than likely the above setup would be built around a
455 BB. A feat unto it's self in a G-Body. Rest assured the remainder of the
drive line will be bullet proofed to optioned needs.

Many have been involved with this creation. I've procured many talented
specialists from frame/body up to flow engineers. The Cutlass IROC-SS is a
functioning thoroughbred. Quite frankly on the best damn car in the world,
Oldsmobile. But than that's my opinion.

I could get real tech here but you catch my basic drift. Yes my first reply
was faulty saying neg. pressure. And we're not talking 200+ NASCAR speeds
here. Though I'm considering taking a few that far... :-}

Whew, I need a nap.....

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
  
'86 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS = "Quincy"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 17:12:52 -0700
From: "Bruce Camilli" <bcam@vel.net>
Subject: RE: Gateway computers, non-Olds

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BDF471.37F496E0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

If your going to lease go to Micron Computers

- -----Original Message-----
From:	Ray Costanzo [SMTP:rocket409@juno.com]
Sent:	Friday, October 09, 1998 5:09 AM
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:	Gateway computers, non-Olds

Which reminds me....
Has anyone had any experience with that lease a computer from Gateway
deal, and get trade-in value at the end of the contract, etc.  A =
computer
seems like the only thing logical to lease since it'll suck in a couple
of years anyway...  opinions?  Thanks
Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass       =

Bucks County, PA

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.  Get =
completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com or call Juno at =
(800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

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- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BDF471.37F496E0--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 19:30:34 -0400
From: jgoble@nishanet.com (Jeramy Goble)
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Pulling Windshield

Mike,
My son and I removed the front and back glass on my 69 Toronado. Both areas
needed attention due to rust problems and lack of a seal. I went to my local
piano shop and bought about 6 feet of wire. Don't know what size but it is
hardened steel so be caraeful. It's about the same size as third string on a
guitar. Jeamy and I with gloves and eye protection inserted the wire into an
area of the seal and began to "slowly" saw through the entire gasket. You
may encounter rust areas that have cancered into the seal so be very
patient. After you are completely through,  you and another person can lift
the glass out. We did also find it very helpful to cut away as much of the
old seal as possible as that was less material for the wire to cut. We were
successuf in cleaning each glass and then with a new seal replaced them
both. Probably not a good idea to do this on a cold or chilly day as the
glass may be more prone to break and the seal may not adhere as well when
replaced. WE took our chances and were successful but we probably were lucky
also. Be careful to note the original placement of the glass and when you
lay the glass back in be very sure where you want it to go. Gasket seals are
different thicknessess so choose the correct one. Many of the other guys on
the Toro Site have done this so others may offer better advice.  Good luck.
Reggie Goble
69 Toroando

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 18:18:30 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Digital Dash in a G

> Why would I want to destroy an original Rally
> Pac for a G-Body with modern digital gauges. The Rally Pac for G-Body is but
> a singular flat face Plate with the separate gauge indicators printed on
> that face plate.

Umm...  Not quite.  The rallye pack, for the 78-88 G body Cutlass consisted of
the clear plastic lense, a black masking plate, and the guage cluster behind
that.  The masking plate (the black surroundings that you see) have the two
large holes cut out for the tach (or blockoff) and speedo, four small holes for
the oil, temp, fuel, and volts, and then the two rectangles for the idiot
stacks.  The guages themselves are nearly all individual, i.e. indiv. tach,
indiv. speedo, and two doulbe blocks for the guages.  There should be no need 
to
cut anything, and I can't see cutting up a large sweep speedo and making it 
look
right.  The digital guages are thin enough that they could probably simply be
glued right to the back of the masking plate.  Would look all black, when
inactive, and would look relatively stock, as well.

Those rallye packs weren't really all that rare, either.  Tons of 'em out
there.  The tach is the hardest to find item for 'em, so I wouldn't feel much
remorse for modifying one.  Plus, the most hacking would be done to the back
half, which could still be the boring style, with the rallye front.
Theoretically speaking, there...

All the idiot lights are still there, regardless of style, too (rallye or
standard).  Several forms, too.  Like two seat belt warnings, etc.  The 
Rockit's
dash illuminated the "Lights On" warning when my neon lights were on under the
car.  Made a cool "stock" affect there.  Another option would be a hidden 
toggle
for NOS, for instance...  Like hitting a button somewhere, the "Fasten Seat
Belt" light comes on and stays on, and triggers another relay to let you use 
the
horn button for a NOS shot...  Hit button again, light goes off, and horn
functions again.  Etc. etc. etc...

Although the full size speedo with hidden VFD guages inside it would be cool,
too.  With original needle and numbers, but oil, temp, and voltage numbers in
certain spots there too... Or perhaps an analog LED sequencer cut in there for
the tach display...  That'd be cool, too.  Hmm...  Got's me thinkin' too...  
;)

Gary, if you haven't yet, check out my Rockit page...  Actually, check out the
mycars page first.  Here:

http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/mycars.htm

Check out the dash on the Rockit.  You can see the HUD box on it, if you look
closely.  Click on the car, and check out other pictures of it...  Theres a 
shot
in there of the HUD display, albeit a bit tough to see in the picture...


> How about this claimed 82 list member coming forth giving us more info on
> this conversion.
> Or anyone knowing how to get in touch with him should he have dropped off
> the list.

Right here! (Still...)  It's an 81 though :)

Big hole in dash, hardest part though, for a person to do the same retrofit,
would be securing the parts, ~especially~ if one were planning on doing a
massive cloning procedure in the future...  (hypothetically speaking of
course... ;)  I got ~really~ lucky to find the Gran Prix HUD in a junk yard.
Got it for cheap, since winter was coming, and I was ~very~ adamant in
convincing them they'd ~never~ sell it, unless it was right now, to me.  They
knew me well enough to know I was right.  After the winter, it'd be worthless,
in the snow and water and all...  And the car wasn't common enough for them to
have much of a public demand for a replacement of a defective one...  And ~no
one~ in town would even ~consider~ trying a retrofit, so they said... umm...
well...  I don't...  well.. lessee... ummm.... OK.     Sold!  :)

For a mass production unit, I'd consider having the projector housing 
fabricated
for the car, and get a bunch of 'em made.  Can be a little more creative that
way.  Hadn't looked too much into that, though.  But a thought, nonetheless...

> "If it was put together, it can be taken apart."
Hee hee...  I like that! ;)
If it ain't broke, it soon will be, so take it apart anyway....

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 18:26:09 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Hood Scoops And Engine Heat

> With all due respect, I doubt that this setup would "suck" out underhood 
heat.
> The base of the windshield is actually a high pressure area,

Exactly.  Although, it could still function as a cooler air inlet, forcing the
hot air out the bottom, under the car.  Perhaps, if you wanted to get creative,
you could mold in some T/A style sidescoops on the fender wells, for that
function...  If properly vented, that could probably create a low pressure 
area,
and could be ducted under the hood accordingly.  Also seen the Cutlass bumper
scoops ducted onto the front rotors for cooling, too.  The FE3X had that.  Cool
car there!  That'll still leave the cowl hood free for the air intake, too...

> Keep up the good work, and Take Care!
> Ken Snyder

Couldn't agree more...  Really looking foreward to seeing Quincy in finished
form!  :)

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1544
*********************************
