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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1502


oldsmobile-digest    Wednesday, September 23 1998    Volume 01 : Number 1502



Re: White smoke
Re: sport steering wheel horn button
Re: Shift Points and Launch RPM
Re: Strange thing happened
Re: New Product To Check Out!
Event - Jefferson (WI) Car Show & Swap Meet
Re: Inaccurate Fuel Guage
Re: My Carb overfloweth!
Re: New Product To Check Out!
Re: Factory Clock(non rally-pac)
RE: White smoke
Re: Convertible Top:Repair or Replace
Thanks, Greg! (Was Re: Re-Post:  Camshaft I.D.)
Re: Event - Jefferson (WI) Car Show & Swap Meet
Re: www.epa.gov - emmissions
Book
Re: License plate choice
RE: New Product To Check Out!
any shows near CT
RE: White smoke
numbering

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 01:52:05 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: White smoke

In a message dated 98-09-22 19:37:45 EDT, you write:

<< Ok, now this is confusing me.  I have the symptoms of both a blown head
gasket
 and a bad tranny.  I ~think~ it's the tranny because it makes a wicked
 clicking noise in reverse and shakes violently in reverse.

 Joe
  >>
Ok, I forget the VERY first post of this, but does it click in forward and
reverse? I would think that it COULD be the rear end getting ready to give up?
And water out of the tailpipe on startup is ok, most of the time, as long as
it doesn't continue after teh car has been warmed up a while. Weird
symptoms....Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 00:01:34 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: sport steering wheel horn button

> I'm looking for a sport steering wheel horn button  (black)  Anyone got one?

If you find ~two~ let me know!!!  Got a buddy that needs one.


- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
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    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 00:10:05 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Shift Points and Launch RPM

> One thing I have noticed on all 455 motors is that they DO NOT like to spin
> high.

Very true.  I've almost always launched from an idle.  Depending on traction
conditions, I'd often not WOT it until about 30-40 foot.  Seems them white 
lines
cause some extra spinnage...  Actually it's more of an affect, though, give the
guy next to ya a  false hope that he has a chance...  Until I get bored, then
WOT, couple squawks, and a wave bye-bye.....  On the strip, I'd usually get 
away
with an instant WOT.  The 455 seemed to launch best that way (for mine.)  If I
had a higher stall, it might have launched a bit harder, but I don't know.
Never raced on a "legal" track, so I don't have any 60' times to report.  Mid
14's with 3.23's.


- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 00:22:14 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Strange thing happened

> Car....1986 442 307HO All factory
> Problem.....won't run..!!

> All suggestions will be welcomed..!!  PRIVATELY PLEASE..!!
Debated and debated, but a dead-Olds diagnosis/brainstorm has much more reason
to be on the list than many of the beaten horses we see daily...  So, I'll keep
this one public.

I've seen many HEI equipped cars just die, and stay dead, with no apparant
forwarning.  Often the rotor will arc through the center, and ground out,
causing no spark or weak spark.  Since the timing light triggers, I have to
question this, but a weak spark can still trigger the light without lighting 
the
fire.

BUT, my personal thoughts, the upholstery folks didn't know your car, got in,
pumped it a couple times, didn't fire, pumped it a few more, and flooded it
out.  Pull one of the plugs and see if it's wet.  If so, disconnect the pos 
lead
at the coil, pull all the plugs, crank it over a few times to clear it out, and
put in ~new~ plugs.  While you're buying them, pick up a rotor, too.  Just in
case.

Best of luck!
- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 00:28:13 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: New Product To Check Out!

> I have been looking over a new product
http://www.speedbleeder.com
> Opinions?

Looks like a good product.  The idea has been around for a while, and should
prove to be a timesaver.  However, the exact same thing can be done by 
attaching
a hose to the bleeder screw, and submerging it in brake fluid.  Press down on
brakes, fluid/air exit, and air rises to top.  Fluid is sucked back in.  If
using these bleeders, get caps for 'em.  I've seen many cars with bleeders
plugged solid with dirt, and these bleeders will be way more susceptible to
problems with some contaminations.

Still think the vacuum bleeder's probably the best bet, though.  You only have
to buy ~one~.  Don't think they're all that spendy new, and the can be
fabricated quite simply.

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 01:33:37 -0500
From: "Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
Subject: Event - Jefferson (WI) Car Show & Swap Meet

Hey everyone,

Just a reminder that if you're in Central Wisconsin this
weekend to stop in and check out the Swap Meet and
car show at Jefferson, WI

More info on the event can be found at:
http://www.cars-on-line.com/Jefferson.html

They have 99 acres of cars and parts, and this year the
feature car is a '72 H/O Indy Pace Car.

I'll be there with my black '87 442 in the car corral, so if
you see it (or me) say 'Hi'.

Hope to see you there!

- -Mark Tupper     1987 442    (OCA 30666)
 mtupper@palacenet.net     http://cyberglyphs.com/442/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 00:14:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Re: Inaccurate Fuel Guage

>The fuel guage in my 72 cutlass s has started pointing past full at around
>what would by 3:00 on a clock.  I am wondering what caused this and if anybody
>knows how to fix it.  I have seen this on a few other 442s and cutlass's so
>somebody else must know whats going on.

It usually means the circuit is open somwhere between the guage and the
ground on the sending unit.  Mine turned out to be a cut wire where the
harness leaves the trunk to go to the tank (the license plate wire was also
cut) an intermittant connection on the fuel sender (replacement wires are
available) the ground wire between the sender and the frame being cut and a
loose crimp on the sender itself.  I'm assuming the wires were cut when the
tank was removed to do some welding around the trunk (before I got the
car).  I later had a similar problem which turned out to be loose pins on
the guage cluster.

I found that a test light is useful to trace the circuit as it more or less
simulates the resistance of the sender.  Assuming your '72 is similar to my
'69 there are two connectors in the trunk by the latch which go through a
grommet (brown and tan or pink from memory), one is the license plate light
and the other the fuel sender.  Separate the fuel sender connector and
place the test light between the harness connector and ground if all is
well on the guage side the light should glow and the fuel guage should move
towards empty the exact amount determined by the characteristics
(resistance) of the test light.  If it is a guage problem you will probably
have to pull the cluster to fix it properly and if it is a sender problem
you may have to drop the tank.

Feel free to email me if you need more details on either side.


Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 03:50:04 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <grpruett@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: My Carb overfloweth!

Brian Kerr wrote:
> Would run by feathering
> throttle, until fuel started to pour out of overflow tube, around
> accelerator pump shaft, choke linkage....literally from every orifice!

Yeesh, went through that saturday.  We dropped the 260 in the Calais
last weekend and saturday I buttonted it up and started trying to make
it run;  Installed the distributor, hooked all the wiring up, connected
the fuel line, and put a gallon o' gas in the tank.  I tinkered with it
a few minuits and soon had it running.  It ran about 90 seconds before
gas started spouting out of the bowl vent.  Pulled the top off the carb
and what did I find?  A piece of teflon tape stuck in the needle and
seat valve, holding it open.  Didn't we have a thread on this just a few
weeks ago?  No teflon tape on carb fittings, it can gum up the works.

Put it back together and she's runnin' smooth...Albeit a little <hack,
cough> rich. :)

Since for now I'm just trying to get it mobile enought that I don't need
the tractor to move the car, I did some scary improvising;  Used tin
foil to replace pieces of the gasket that I tore in removing the top of
the carb.  The starter is held in with 1 1/2 bolts. The car had no
radiator, I didn't have the cash this week to buy one, but there was
this `77 malibu 2-core radiator that's been lying in the shed for
years...found out it could be made to fit after bashing in the lower
passenger side corner and replacing the petcock with an extra-big
threaded grease fitting.  (couldn't find a suitable plug)  I'm leaving
the radiator cap off for now since I'm re-using some rotten hoses, i
don't want the cooling system building up any pressure.  There's no
alternator,hence, nothing to take up the tension in the water pump
belt.  Scrounged up a tiny belt and managed to squeeze it over the crank
and water pump pulley so I'd have water circulating.  Now I can run the
engine for longer than 3 minuits without worrying about
overheating.

Naturally this car isn't leaving the confines of the driveway and back
yard in this condition.  I'm just amazed at how low I can sink. :)
"Mickey mouse" doesn't cover this engineering....I'm not sure even Goofy
would approve. :)  I did make sure the rallye gauges were working so I
can keep an eye on the vital signs.  BTW, I spared no expense on the
tranny :);  New front and rear seals, fluid change, pan gasket,
strainer, and new mount.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Surpeme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 04:11:16 -0600
From: "Marshall A. Priest" <miss_connie@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: New Product To Check Out!

This appear to be similar to the devices used to bleed air from the
water/glycol lines on industrial air condition units.  They have worked fine
for several years.
EPA would kill anyone that put glycol on the ground.  These unit let the air
out without getting the fluid everywhere.
Marshall
Marshall@Priest.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 08:13:17 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Re: Factory Clock(non rally-pac)

Quartz updating by Gary Herbert, 4 Clear Creek Ct.
Simpsonville SC 29680, Phone: 864-967-7719 (www.tachman.com)
His ad was in JWO

Ron Haun
71 442 W30 Convert.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 08:13:28 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: White smoke

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom

gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>
  
"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS

<Snip>

<>And water out of the tailpipe on startup is ok, most of the time,
<>as long as
<>it doesn't continue after teh car has been warmed up a while. Weird
<>symptoms....Dorian


Correct me if wrong but isn't H2O a minute by-product of combustion? While I
don't mean a constant (somewhat atomized) spray that coats the hand surface
when testing tailpipe exhaust, but rather an occasional tailpipe drip?

Gary...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 08:16:54 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Re: Convertible Top:Repair or Replace

That was 12 yrs ago but will look for receipts and let you know.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 08:25:51 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Thanks, Greg! (Was Re: Re-Post:  Camshaft I.D.)

Mr. Rollin,

Thanks!  Now I can at least decide which engine I want to plan on using it in,
instead of taking a stab in the dark.  I wrote the details you provided right
on the box so I don't get a case of C.R.S. (can't remember s.., I get it
often) and ask the same question again.

Now, has anyone actually used this cam?  And if so, how did it do for you
(ooooh, rhyming!)

Thanks again, the power of this list almost rivals the power of a well-tuned
nitroused big-block!

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 07:31:42 -0500
From: "David Popadic" <davepop@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Event - Jefferson (WI) Car Show & Swap Meet

I'll be there!!!!!!!!  Can almost taste the Big Bar....  Not bringing the
Cutlass.  I'm looking for some tires and misc.


>Hey everyone,
>
>Just a reminder that if you're in Central Wisconsin this
>weekend to stop in and check out the Swap Meet and
>car show at Jefferson, WI
>
>More info on the event can be found at:
>http://www.cars-on-line.com/Jefferson.html
>
>They have 99 acres of cars and parts, and this year the
>feature car is a '72 H/O Indy Pace Car.
>
>I'll be there with my black '87 442 in the car corral, so if
>you see it (or me) say 'Hi'.
>
>Hope to see you there!
>
>-Mark Tupper     1987 442    (OCA 30666)
> mtupper@palacenet.net     http://cyberglyphs.com/442/
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 08:39:04 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: www.epa.gov - emmissions

I live in Texas( Ellis County...outside of Dallas), and as far as I have
encountered, Texas' laws are VERY leanient for us Musclecar enthusiests. I
have NEVER had a problem getting my '65 inspected(except for that one time
when that a**hole inspector just HAD to find a problem...fan belt with 2
cracks in a 1" space). I have never had my '65 put to the "sniff test", but
I'm not sure if it would even matter given it's year model.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 08:42:14 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Book

Anyone interested in purchasing the book by Helen Early
(first lady of Oldsmobile) 497 page hard cover
SETTING THE PACE, a must for all Oldsmobile nuts.
The price is $40.00 (a steal)
Contact Al & Bill Sandy, 92 Geneva St. Westmont, N.J. 08108
Phone after 3PM: 609-858-0248, Fax: 609-869-3187,
they accept Visa & Master card. This the book I have with all
the production figures, covers first 100YRS of Oldsmobile.
Got mine free attending the 100TH aniv. of Olds in Lansing.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 08:47:32 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: License plate choice

In a message dated 98-09-21 20:31:22 EDT, you write:

<< Getting the car registered tomorrow.  Deciding on Classic Plates or
 Personalized?
 If personalized the choices that I thought of are:
 W30OLDS, W30 442, WTHIRTY, 1970W30, OLDSW30,  442 W30,  70 W30,or  just W30.
 Car is a 1970 442 W-30 conv.  What do you think?  David OCA #30416 >>

How about  WAY 2 GO
Bruce
75 Delta 88 Conv,

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 09:13:51 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: New Product To Check Out!

<Snip>

However, the exact same thing can be done by attaching
a hose to the bleeder screw, and submerging it in brake fluid.  Press down
on
brakes, fluid/air exit, and air rises to top.  Fluid is sucked back in.

OK, couple observations here.

1. Gravity bleed: Doesn't produce positive pressure within the brake line to
sufficiently "push" air bubbles from areas where an auto manufacture winds a
brake line in a circle removing slack in what might be a line originally
produced for a longer wheel base frame. Air is buoyant within brake fluid
and will come to rest in line high points. I would think with gravity feed a
whole lot of brake fluid better pass through that line to insure all air
removed, (particularly when priming new line).

2. Vacuum bleed: Effects negitive pressure at brake line end that decreases
the longer the line is. air bubbles say in the line nearest the MC may not
be dislodged to travel the line length. Not to mention that you could never
produce a massive vacuum that would in effect proper total line fluid
movement. The negitive suction will decrease within the line the linger the
line. Try siphoning a fluid through a 3' hose vs a 10' hose. The negitive
suction required would increase exponentially as length increases and/or
diameter decreases.

3. Submersing hose in collection reservoir does restrict air from
re-entering line, (line end submerged), but also allows contaminates to suck
back in when pedal released to draw more brake fluid from reservoir into
piston cylinder (negitive line pressure). Hence, your only actually moving
apx. 2/3rds of the fluid stroke. I would say apx 1/3rd of the fluid
dispensed would be sucked back in line as pedal rises for next stroke.

4. Pedal pressure bleed: Optimal as even though the pet cock is open and
positive pressure is far less than a closed line, still, more pressure is
developed to "Push" air bubbles from front to rear. Even on an open line,
the positive hydraulic line pressure would far out pace any vacuum from the
other direction. A positive pressure (hydraulically) would seek it's pushed
line level, (even on an open line), and remain constant to line end and
fluid dispel.

So, yes the line end ball check valve is valuable to this process. In fact
most all hydraulic systems contain such devices. However at $7.00 + S/H per
wheel? No. Buy One, attach it to a length of aquarium air line and move it
from wheel to wheel as you bleed the system. Don't forget longest line
first, (usually passenger rear wheel). I also remember in the pre vacuum
boost MC, not to allow pedal to travel full deflection as that allowed the
MC piston to travel past reservoir intake port allowing brake fluid to enter
behind the piston. I recall that the standard was no more than 3/4 pedal
deflection travel, than on to the next stroke.

Just another $.02

Direct Olds content: Will still need a couple weeks before Quincy photo
shoot. Need to address this suspension travel/lowering aspect prior to
streeting the car to the shoot. (Still looking for impute on others that
have lowered/stiffened suspension) I am focusing on getting Quincy ready for
Englishtown for the Oct. 10 -11th meet. More realistic is the Hot Rod East
Coast cruse at Suffern, NY on Oct 18th. As soon as I can get pics together
the list will be informed first...

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom

gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>
  
"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 09:28:56 EDT
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: any shows near CT

Just wondering if anybody knows of any shows coming near the CT area any soon
TIA   Rich
82,85 cutlass supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 06:48:04 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: White smoke

> Correct me if wrong but isn't H2O a minute by-product of
> combustion? While I don't mean a constant (somewhat atomized)
> spray that coats the hand surface when testing tailpipe exhaust,
> but rather an occasional tailpipe drip?

For every gallon of gas you burn, you generate almost a gallon of
water vapor. When the exhaust system is cold, the vapor condenses
before it can make it out the tailpipe, and you see a drip, drip,
drip. That's also why short-trip cars tend to rust out the bottom
of their exhaust pipes and mufflers. Once the car is fully warmed
up, the dripping will stop.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 06:55:42 -0700
From: jbholley <jbholley@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: numbering

oldsmobile-digest wrote:

> oldsmobile-digest     Tuesday, September 22 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1498
>
> [none]
> Re: License plate choice
> Re: White smoke (and tranny clicking noise)
> RE: EGR Drill
> Re: Windshield prices (was Windshield Antennas)
> Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms
> Re: Hurst Shifter For Sale
> Re: g-body
> UNBOUNCE: Re: High Rev's and W's
> UNBOUNCE: Back to original -- engine compartment
> Re: Hurst Shifter For Sale
> UNBOUNCE: '75 H/O Info
> Re: I'm stumped - Need the Olds GURU assistance
> Re: Washington junk yards
> Re: Washington junk yards
> another oddball piston combo
> RE: g-body
> "Parts wanted ad".....REPLY small world
> Re: White smoke
> Changes....
> Re: g-body
> RE: Changes....
> Re: White smoke (and tranny clicking noise)
> Re: Oil Light Problem
> Re: ADMIN: List Down, Now Back...
> 68 cowl info?
> need 68 cowl info
> Re: License plate choice
> Re: Removing G-body from chassis
> Re: Windshield prices (was Windshield Antennas)
> Re: License plate choice
> Re: UNBOUNCE: Re: High Rev's and W's
> Re: License plate choice
> checking valve timing and chain stretch without removing front cover
> Re: Coil failure and MSD ?
> Yet more on 400/425 blocks
> Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines
> Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines
> Still working?
> 0-60 times
> Buckets in '81 Delta
> Re: g-body
> Edelbrock heads (2nd run)
> UNBOUNCE: cowl tag info?
> Re: UNBOUNCE: G-Body Coil Springs
> Re: License plate choice
> Re: UNBOUNCE: '75 H/O Info
> Re: ADMIN: List Down, Now Back...
> Re: License plate choice
> Re: 1975 olds 88 convertable parts
> How much is reupholstering?
> OCA Web Site Links Wanted
> Re: Alternator or Battery
> Re: License plate choice
> Re: Oil Light Problem
> Re: Oil Light Problem
> Re: Ignition Problem - Need Advice
> To shim or not to shim
> Re: Coil failure and MSD ?
> Wiper motor.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:10:42 -0500
> From: brkman@juno.com (Daniel P. Berkman)
> Subject: [none]
>
> Dear sirs,
> my friend asked if I could look up some info on the net for him
> concerning his 1975 Hurst Olds W-30 model w/ a 455 engine.The car is
> pearl white w/ gold stripes and is in very good condition. The serial #
> on the car is 3J57T5M310001.
> it is his understanding that the 0001 at the end of the s/n indicates
> that this was the first off the line of the 23,000 produced in 1975. He
> also understands that Hot Rod Magazine used this car as a demo with
> spokesmodel Lina Vaughn. We'd appreciate any info that anyone might add.
> Can anyone confirm that this is truly the history of this car? Any idea
> of the value? Is anyone interested in purchasing it?
> Thanks,
>  Dan Berkman
> brkman@juno.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 19:11:21 -0600
> From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
> Subject: Re: License plate choice
>
> 2 F A S T 4 U
>
> so that when some punk in the 5.0 with $3000 wheels and $5000 paint
> job/stereo has something to read when you kick his but in a 28 year old car.
> Just kidding.  I like W30.  People that know what W30 really represents will
> know the year, and for the others who are ignorant, who cares.  Wanted to
> get a personalized plate myself but thought that $200 plate fee + $57 for
> the regular fee was a little to much for me.  (this is in Alberta)
>
> Igor Todorovic
> 1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
> 1981 Regency (307/200r4/propane)
> 1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: DKlauber@aol.com <DKlauber@aol.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 6:31 PM
> Subject: License plate choice
>
> >Getting the car registered tomorrow.  Deciding on Classic Plates or
> >Personalized?
> >If personalized the choices that I thought of are:
> >W30OLDS, W30 442, WTHIRTY, 1970W30, OLDSW30,  442 W30,  70 W30,or  just
> W30.
> >Car is a 1970 442 W-30 conv.  What do you think?  David OCA #30416
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:12:03 -0500
> From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
> Subject: Re: White smoke (and tranny clicking noise)
>
> Joe,
> Sure wouldn't be doing any burnout's with that smoke condition. Really hard
> to tell, blue smoke and white smoke darn near look the same. Does it smell
> smoky, like oil. Especially in puffs, sounds like one cyn. doing it. Sure
> would run a cyn. leak test on it if you can get your hands on one. Dual
> exhausts, at least tell which bank is causing the trouble. tranny sounds
> like a front pump but I'm out of my element here. Need a good tranny man to
> tell really.
>                                               Lou Biggs
> lbiggs@intertek.net
> 67 442 all orig.
> 75 CS same way
>
>
> - ---------
> > From: JCRASH7@aol.com
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: White smoke (and tranny clicking noise)
> > Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 7:45 PM
> >
> >
> > > Need more info, pure white smoke "water",
> > >  cracked block or head. But unlikely, bluish white smoke, "oil",
> cracked or
> > >  busted ring, or piston, normally, but an exception to every rule.
> >
> > Cracked block?!  I hope not!  The smoke originated today when trying
> another
> > "burnout", this time with a friend watching holding a camera.  This time,
> I
> > couldn't get the car to do it, and I asked my friend if he saw anything,
> he
> > said there is smoke coming from your exhaust.  I put the car in park and
> had a
> > look for myself.  Pure white smoke coming out in puffs.
> >
> > Also, before I even moved the car, I put the car in "drive", and noticed
> a
> > clicking sound.  The sound was there in any gear, but went away at higher
> > RPM's.
> >
> > Delta's really actin' funny lately...
> >
> > -------------------------
> > Joe Sherbanenko
> > jcrash7@aol.com
> > http://members.tripod.com/~jcrash7
> > -------------------------
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 21:17:16 -0400
> From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
> Subject: RE: EGR Drill
>
> On Monday, September 21, 1998 9:02 PM, Dave Cullen
> [SMTP:david.cullen@snet.net] wrote:
> >
> > Hope you had better luck than I did Jason.
>
> Not really...I never got around to re-setting the timing.  Probably better
> off...I don't have a timing light anyway.
>
> > Motor still pings (or knocks, whatever is the correct term) at low
> throttle.
> > Sometimes.
>
> I put a combo of high-test fuel and some carburetor/fuel injector cleaner
> in on my trip back to school yesterday, so we'll see how she does during
> the next few weeks.  I have a feeling that I'll be setting the timing next
> month...
>
> > BTW don't be intimidated by removing the carb - it's really simple. Just
> > mark the vacuum hoses with masking tape so you can put them back where
> they
> > came from.
>
> What's all included with this?  In other words, what's all connected to the
> carb?  Vacuum hoses and throttle link.  Is there a transmission link, too
> (TH-200-C)?
>
> Jason Adcock
> Blacksburg, VA
> E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
> Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:21:59 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
> Subject: Re: Windshield prices (was Windshield Antennas)
>
> >'Having mine (71 4-4-2) done Monday. The price is $261, fully covered by
> >insurance. 'No chips or cracks, just old and impossible to see through in 
the
> >sun, but the insurance guy led me into explaining it as rock damage and
> >covered it.
>
> I think my deductable is about $200 so there wouldn't be much in it for me
> and I would be worried (rightly or wrongly) about my rates going up.
>
> Lloyd Ferguson
> ferguson@1stnetusa.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:29:40 -0700
> From: "noelle r murphy" <MURPH2@prodigy.net>
> Subject: Re: Almost Olds Related-Auto Acronyms
>
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
> - ------=_NextPart_000_01BDE58D.CB6E6100
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
> ford  FU!%ed OVER REDONE DODGE
> - ------=_NextPart_000_01BDE58D.CB6E6100
> Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> <html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF"><p><font size=3D2 =
> color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Arial">ford &nbsp;FU!%ed OVER REDONE DODGE</p>
> </font></body></html>
> - ------=_NextPart_000_01BDE58D.CB6E6100--
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 21:22:56 -0400
> From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
> Subject: Re: Hurst Shifter For Sale
>
> Nathyn M. Knipe wrote:
> >
> > sorry guys.....selling the shifter out of Williamsport PA.......
>
> Couple Q's...
>
> What model?
> How old?
> What condition?
>
> How much are YOU looking to get out of it?
>
> - --
>                 - Jerry Christopher -
> IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
>        HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 21:28:39 -0400
> From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
> Subject: Re: g-body
>
> Ray Costanzo wrote:
> >
> > Do any other g-body owners have problems with their power widows rising
> > very slowly?
>
> Yes and no...  <G>  My driver's side goes up fairly easily, and
> effortlessly...  The passenger side, when they are both forced up at the
> same time, will end up being two inches short of the finishing point
> compared to the driver's side...
>
> On my buddy's 84 Hurst, his go up EXTREMELY slow...   Slow enough I am
> trying to talk him into buying new motors.....
>
> That's the only solution I can find, is that the motors we have are
> getting old, and warn, and aren't performing like the used to...  <G>
> So, TIME FOR NEW ONES!!!  heh heh...  Oh wait, I can't get new ones...
> (chanting, 455, 455, 455, 455, 455)
> - --
>                 - Jerry Christopher -
> IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
>        HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 22:29:59 -0300 (ADT)
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: UNBOUNCE: Re: High Rev's and W's
>
> - ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From:   CPEARLPARK@aol.com
> Subject: Re: High Rev's and W's
>
> Mike, Thanks for the info. I may have to look into those other rear ends as I
> do a lot of highway. I can't really get anywhere from here without the
> turnpike or an interstate...  "Been travelling quite a ways recently to the
> shows (I definitely have the bug). The Hemmings show in Bennington was just
> OK.  Way too many Beanie Babies at the swap. What's the attraction?  This
> weekend in Ipswich, MA is what I'm told is the creme de la creme of
> collector/exotics shows.
>
> One more about the W's. I know I don't have a W-30 and the car is very low on
> options, but I do have the scooped hood.  The thing is... it's steel, not
> glass. I can't find any references to anything other than glass.  So where 
did
> this hood come from?  The previous owner claimed he spent $1400 incl. 
shipping
> to get it (used). What car did it come from??
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 22:31:06 -0300 (ADT)
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: UNBOUNCE: Back to original -- engine compartment
>
> - ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From:   CPEARLPARK@aol.com
> Subject: Back to original -- engine compartment
>
> Does anyone have (or know where to find) a photo of the way a 71 455 should
> look in a 4-4-2?  I'd like to get back to original.  Currently have a chrome
> open air cleaner ("Made in Taiwan" sticker on the bottom -YIKES), chrome 
valve
> covers, yellow plug wires, etc.  I have a W-25 STEEL hood that I don't really
> want to lose, but would like the right air cleaner system.  Also looking for 
a
> sport steering wheel (Brothers "no" , Year One "no") and period front seat
> belts (GM or Fisher logo, which?). Took 92 year old Grandma for a ride with
> the top down on Sunday and she was looking for anything she could find to get
> a grip on -- what a riot!
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 21:32:31 -0400 (EDT)
> From: "Nathyn M. Knipe" <nmknipe@mailbox.syr.edu>
> Subject: Re: Hurst Shifter For Sale
>
> it is a Hurst Quarter Stick for a TH350....it is like new....i have a new
> cable and shifter knob for it and i have the aluminum cover for it
> too....i bought it new about a year ago...but
> then bought another one for the 700R4 i put into my car....and i would
> like to see  $120 for it....negotiable....and again i am selling it from
> Williamsport PA....
>
> On Mon, 21 Sep 1998, Jerry Christopher wrote:
>
> > Nathyn M. Knipe wrote:
> > >
> > > sorry guys.....selling the shifter out of Williamsport PA.......
> >
> > Couple Q's...
> >
> > What model?
> > How old?
> > What condition?
> >
> > How much are YOU looking to get out of it?
> >
> > --
> >                 - Jerry Christopher -
> > IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
> >        HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 22:34:19 -0300 (ADT)
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: UNBOUNCE: '75 H/O Info
>
> Not on the list, respond to brkman@juno.com if you can assist.
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
> - ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From:   brkman@juno.com (Daniel P. Berkman)
>
> Dear sirs,
> my friend asked if I could look up some info on the net for him
> concerning his 1975 Hurst Olds W-30 model w/ a 455 engine.The car is
> pearl white w/ gold stripes and is in very good condition. The serial #
> on the car is 3J57T5M310001.
> it is his understanding that the 0001 at the end of the s/n indicates
> that this was the first off the line of the 23,000 produced in 1975. He
> also understands that Hot Rod Magazine used this car as a demo with
> spokesmodel Lina Vaughn. We'd appreciate any info that anyone might add.
> Can anyone confirm that this is truly the history of this car? Any idea
> of the value? Is anyone interested in purchasing it?
> Thanks,
>  Dan Berkman
> brkman@juno.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 21:45:27 -0400
> From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
> Subject: Re: I'm stumped - Need the Olds GURU assistance
>
> >About two weeks ago I asked for your help regarding alternator questions.
> The
> >amperage guage would not go above O, and the generator light would only go
> out
> >if the engine was reved to about 3000 (amp guage still only goes to zero).
>
> While your engine is running at 1500 rpm check the voltage between the
> alernator output terminal and the battery positive post. It should be almost
> zero difference (use a 1 volt scale).
>
> If the alternator output is 1/2 volt or more higher (positive) than the
> battery, suspect the wiring between the two - connections, fusible link,
> etc.
>
> If the voltage difference is near zero, the alt is just not putting out
> enough. Since you replaced alt and regulator already, what's left? Wiring
> between the two.
>
> drc
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 18:55:01 -0700
> From: "noelle r murphy" <MURPH2@prodigy.net>
> Subject: Re: Washington junk yards
>
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
> - ------=_NextPart_000_01BDE591.5656F540
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
> Brandon,
>
>         Try All American In Vancouver,  Wa.  360-254-8850  or,
>
>         Supercars Unlimited In Portland 503-244-8249
>
>         When supposedly reputable auto body people couldn't find parts for my
' 66 > F-85 Cutlass,  these guys came through with one phone call. > >
Hope this helps, > >                                         Paul & Noelle >
'66 F-85 Cutlass Holiday Coupe > - ------=_NextPart_000_01BDE591.5656F540 >
Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 > Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable > > <html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF"><p><font
size=3D2 = > color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Arial">Brandon,<br><br>&#009;Try All
American = > In Vancouver, &nbsp;Wa. &nbsp;360-254-8850 &nbsp;or, = >
&nbsp;<br>&#009;<br>&#009;Supercars Unlimited In Portland = >
503-244-8249<br>&#009;<br>&#009;When supposedly reputable auto body = > people
couldn't find parts for my ' 66 F-85 Cutlass, &nbsp;these guys = > came through
with one phone = > call.<br><br><br>&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;Hope this = >
helps,<br><br>&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;Paul &amp; = >
Noelle<br>&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;'66 F-85 Cutlass Holiday = > Coupe</p> 
>
</font></body></html> > - ------=_NextPart_000_01BDE591.5656F540-- > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 19:51:18 -0700 > 
From:
"Tim Wurtz" <tropical@micron.net> > Subject: Re: Washington junk yards > > 
This
is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > -
------=_NextPart_000_002B_01BDE599.33259560 > Content-Type: text/plain; >
charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > You can
try these guys in Boise, Idaho too......All Makes Auto Salvage=20 > 
208-362-7111 >
-----Original Message----- >     From: noelle r murphy <MURPH2@prodigy.net> >
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca> >     Date: Monday,
September 21, 1998 6:49 PM >     Subject: Re: Washington junk yards >    =20 >
=20 >     Brandon, >    =20 >     Try All American In Vancouver,  Wa.
360-254-8850  or, =20 >    =20 >     Supercars Unlimited In Portland
503-244-8249 >    =20 >     When supposedly reputable auto body people couldn't
find parts for = > my ' 66 F-85 Cutlass,  these guys came through with one 
phone
call. >    =20 >    =20 >     Hope this helps, >    =20 >     Paul & Noelle >
'66 F-85 Cutlass Holiday Coupe > > - 
------=_NextPart_000_002B_01BDE599.33259560 >
Content-Type: text/html; >         charset="iso-8859-1" >
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC
"-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN"> > <HTML> > <HEAD> > > <META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 = > http-equiv=3DContent-Type> > <META
content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR> > </HEAD> > <BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff> > <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>You can try these guys
in Boise, = > Idaho=20 > too......All Makes Auto Salvage </FONT></DIV> >
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>208-362-7111</FONT></DIV> > <BLOCKQUOTE=20 
>
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: = >
5px"> >     <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original = >
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20 >     </B>noelle r murphy &lt;<A=20 >     = >
href=3D"mailto:MURPH2@prodigy.net">MURPH2@prodigy.net</A>&gt;<BR><B>To: = >
</B><A=20 >     = >
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A> = >
&lt;<A=20 >     = >
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g= >
t;<BR><B>Date:=20 >     </B>Monday, September 21, 1998 6:49 PM<BR><B>Subject:
</B>Re: = > Washington=20 >     junk yards<BR><BR></DIV></FONT> >     <P><FONT
color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2>Brandon,<BR><BR>Try = > All American 
In=20 >
Vancouver, &nbsp;Wa. &nbsp;360-254-8850 &nbsp;or, = > 
&nbsp;<BR><BR>Supercars=20 >
Unlimited In Portland 503-244-8249<BR><BR>When supposedly reputable = > 
auto=20 >
body people couldn't find parts for my ' 66 F-85 Cutlass, = > &nbsp;these
guys=20 >     came through with one phone call.<BR><BR><BR>Hope this = >
helps,<BR><BR>Paul=20 >     &amp; Noelle<BR>'66 F-85 Cutlass Holiday=20 >
Coupe</P></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML> > > -
------=_NextPart_000_002B_01BDE599.33259560-- > > 
------------------------------ > >
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 21:52:15 -0400 > From: David Brode
<dbrode@hereintown.net> > Subject: another oddball piston combo > > Hello all, 
>
All this piston chatter made me decide to post about another oddball > 455
combo. Use the long 425 rods with the 455 crank, and a 455 pontiac >
piston[4.151"std. bore]. The pontiac uses the same size pin as the olds, >
making it an easy job. The 425 rod is .265" longer. This means the > 
compression
distance needs to be .265" shorter. 1.740-.265 = 1.475". The > TRW L2359 
pontiac
piston has a comp distance of 1.497". This is 27 thou > to high, but most olds
blocks need to be decked at least that much to > give "0" deck, for good 
quench.
The L2359 has 6.7cc worth of notches. > Compared to the 14.5cc 2323 olds 
piston,
this alone would raise > compression 6 points or so. The L2359 pontiac
piston/pin is a bit > lighter than the L2323 olds, but it's less than 10%, so a
rebalance is > not needed. The longer 425 rod would also be a bit easier on 
the >
cylinder walls [1.63 rod-stroke ratio, compaired to the stock 6.735"rods > 1.58
ratio]. > Dave Brode > 64 cutlass > > ------------------------------ > > Date:
Mon, 21 Sep 1998 22:02:48 -0400 > From: "Francomm" <gjcouse@francomm.com> >
Subject: RE: g-body > > <Snippety snip> > > <Yes and no...  <G>  My driver's
side goes up fairly easily, and > effortlessly...  The passenger side, when 
they
are both forced up at the > same time, will end up being two inches short of 
the
finishing point > compared to the driver's side... > > On my buddy's 84 Hurst,
his go up EXTREMELY slow...   Slow enough I am > trying to talk him into buying
new motors..... > > That's the only solution I can find > > > > Not to mention
all the years of dust mixing with the original track lift > assembly lube. I'm
sure it pretty gummy by now slowing down the movement and > creating excessive
resistance on the window drive motor. Pull the panels and > clean/relube the
riser track. > > Just my .02 > > - ----Regards, > > Gary J. Couse > Couse 
Custom > >
gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com> > > "Quincy" = 1986 Custom
Cutlass IROC-SS > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998
22:34:14 EDT > From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com > Subject: "Parts wanted ad".....REPLY
small world > > In a message dated 9/19/98 12:48:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time, >
krzy4evr@usit.net writes: > > << >  Found in the parts wanted ads..!!!  
Thought
someone might be able to help..!! > > >  50 Oldsmobile 88 - Need Bumpers (front
and rear), Front Grill, Front > directional >  light assemblies (teardrop under
headlight), Rear tail light assemblies ( > including >  chrome strip on top of
rear quarter panel). Looking for decent chrome as this > is >  not a show car.
Richard St. George, 401-728-4904, > >   >> >    When I saw this ad the other
night I was so surprised as I meet  this guy > in 1974 when he bought this car
and had the engine rebuilt. The shop that did > the work and they lost a part 
of
his clutch linkage and I helped him locate > the part. We kept in touch  for a
few year but he got married and lives > changed. >     He just pulled the car
out of a garage and started on it again, I called > him and will be able to 
help
with most of his needs, thanks to "KRZY4EVR" for > posting the notice > >
Everett    OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire > > E & G Automotive > 1-401-435-7139 > PO
Box 16095 > 9 Newman Ave > Rumford, R.I. 02916 > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 19:34:09 +0000 > 
From:
Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com> > Subject: Re: White smoke > > Trany fluid
burns white . > Before i got my TH350, my jetaway was leaking so bad through 
the >
case near the front pump that it would spray fluid on the hot exhaust > when i
really stood on the gas. Since i had short exhaust pipes ,exiting > before the
rear wheels it look like engine smoke. > > ------------------------------ > >
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:01:43 -0700 (PDT) > From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com> 
>
Subject: Changes.... > > Hi gang, >       Made some additions to my page(s),
first one is the addition of > Peter Berusch and "Redzilla"...others in the
works from the BOP > nats...posted some new pics on the "Topless" page...better
motor > shot...better pic of the late Rally pac with the 120 speedo...now with 
>
orange needles that look alot better. >                More to come on all
pagesso keep checking back, >                         Sman > == > John McJunkin
mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740 > TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's
84---my 69 442 > 1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 ! >
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/ > Check out my Burnout page-send me pics
of your's and I'll add it > - -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts > 
>
_________________________________________________________ > DO YOU YAHOO!? > 
Get
your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 22:16:29 -0500 > 
From:
"Tracy H. Shires" <twodogs@ou.edu> > Subject: Re: g-body > > >And, does anyone
know how to solve the classic g-body problem of the > > >window going a bit off
track and not sealing when you out it up while > > >driving.  I know about
opening the other window and equalizing pressure > > >and all, but is there
anything that can be tightened or realligned to > > >alleviate this? > > > > >
>Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass > > >
Bucks County, PA > > I've been fighting this problem for years... first off,
how's the outside weatherstripping on the window rail? Mine was cracked and
missing a few segments. I replaced both sides and that fixed the driver's side
problem. The passanger side is a different story though. I haven't fixed it 
yet,
but I have traced the problem. It seems on my passenger door the door skin has
come loose on the very front top corner, about a 3 inches segment. When air
starts to blow through it flexes the door skin out just a little - and the
window follows it just enough so it misses the upper weatherstripping. I think
If I get that rewelded it'll be fine, but what a pain! > > If I remember
correctly there is no way to adjust the alignment in a manner that would bring
the glass in.. > > Good Luck, and I'd be interested to hear other ideas! > > T.
H. Shires                            81 C/S/B Rckt 350 > > Denton, Tx
3 Sticks > > > > mailto:TwoDogs@ou.edu > > <bold>University of Oklahoma > >
</bold><italic><color><param>0000,0000,ffff</param>Aerospace > Engineering > >
</color><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param>Mechanical Engineering > >
</color></italic> > > "If it was put together, it can be taken apart." > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 23:12:35 -0400 > 
From:
Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu> > Subject: RE: Changes.... > > On Monday,
September 21, 1998 11:02 PM, S-MAN [SMTP:super442@yahoo.com] wrote: > > > > Hi
gang, > >       Made some additions to my page(s), first one is the addition 
of >
> Peter Berusch and "Redzilla"...others in the works from the BOP > >
nats...posted some new pics on the "Topless" page...better motor > >
shot...better pic of the late Rally pac with the 120 speedo...now with > >
orange needles that look alot better. > >                More to come on all
pagesso keep checking back, > >                         Sman > > Nice lookin',
John!  Especially like the "burple" 307!  Very one-of-a-kind! > > Jason Adcock 
>
Blacksburg, VA > E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu > Web: 
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:24:01 -0700 > 
From:
Ben <olds442@primenet.com> > Subject: Re: White smoke (and tranny clicking
noise) > > Could be many things, but I wouldn't go right to a cracked block. 
In
my many > experiences it is more likely a blown head gasket or in a more 
extreme
end, a > warped head. This happened to my 62 at one time and it was a pain to
trouble > shoot. As far as my experiences with dicifering between smoke. Put
your bare > leg or hand at the exhaust pip. Feel the exhaust, if your hand ends
up sooty, > it's oul. If there is condensation then it's water. Real easy and
you don't > have to be a rocket scientist. > > Ben > 62 F-85 still for 
sale!!!!! >
68 `C' heads for sale!!!! > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21
Sep 1998 23:12:24 -0400 > From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com> >
Subject: Re: Oil Light Problem > > TimLeary97@aol.com wrote: > > > The oil
pressure light switch on my 64 Cutlass was leaking so I replaced it. > > The
leak is fixed, but now the oil light won't go out.  the light was not lit > >
with the old unit.  Did I miss something when I replaced the switch, is there >
> some type of a reset procedure?  The engine is a 330, and I bought the new > 
>
switch at NAPA.  I'm pretty sure the oil pressure is good.  The engine was > >
rebuilt 15,000 miles ago, and the valve train is quiet. > >       Tim, > >
As you probably know, an oil pressure switch (sending unit) is just that, a >
switch. It is on when there is no or low oil pressure, hence, the illuminated >
light, and it is off when there is adequate oil pressure, hence, the light 
goes >
out.  So, try this.  Turn on the ignition switch, but do not start the car. >
Check to see that the light comes on.  Now, go pull the wire off the switch.
The > light should now be off.  If it isn't, the wire that runs between the 
oil >
pressure switch and the light is grounded somewhere.  In other words, you have 
a >
short. If the light does go out when you pull the wire, the wiring is okay.  
Go >
ahead and reconnect it.  If you're sure your oil pressure is okay, suspect a 
bad >
or incorrect oil pressure switch, even though it's new.  To be sure your oil >
pressure is okay, install an oil pressure gauge. If you install a tee into the 
>
block, you can install both the current oil pressure switch and oil pressure >
gauge fitting.  This will, at least, let you know what your oil pressure is >
really doing.  Finally, ask NAPA if they're sure they gave you the right part.
I > mean, they did give you the sending unit for a LIGHT and not a GAUGE, 
right? > >
Have fun, > >     Thomas P. Smith >     1971 Cutlass S 350 > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 23:26:38 -0400 (EDT) 
>
From: tommr@webtv.net (tom m) > Subject: Re: ADMIN: List Down, Now Back... > >
hello greg, take me off the olds list as soon as possible. thanks . tom >
tommr@webtv.net > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998
23:47:23 EDT > From: Yorcoy@aol.com > Subject: 68 cowl info? > > I need Info on
a 68 cowl tag. > 06d 025947 150031 > ST 68-34287  BF05531 > TR 974 B80 GA >
Thanks for your help! > Please e-mail me directly yorcoy@aol.com > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 00:10:48 EDT > From:
Yorcoy@aol.com > Subject: need 68 cowl info > > Please help. > Cowl tag > 06D
025947 > ST 68-34287  BF05531 > TR 974 B80  GA > Please e-mail me directly >
yorcoy@aol.com > Thanks > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 22 
Sep
1998 00:20:23 -0400 > From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM > Subject: Re: License
plate choice > > W30OLDS, W30 442, WTHIRTY, 1970W30, OLDSW30,  442 W30,  70
W30,or  just > W30. > Car is a 1970 442 W-30 conv.  What do you think?  David
OCA #30416 > _____________ > > I think I'd put money on all of those already
being taken in just about any > state.  When Virginia went from six letters to
seven on personalized > plates, I RAN down to the DMV and scored WTHIRTY for my
70. > > Joe Padavano > padavano.joe@orbital.com > > 66 442 > 68 W-30 > 69 H/O >
70 W-30 > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 22:40:18
-0600 > From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com> > Subject: Re: Removing G-body 
from
chassis > > Ahh...  One thing the Oldsmagnet has ~not~ done yet...  (wow!)  
Here
are a few > tips that come to mind, though: > > The G-Body Cutlass allegedly 
has
12 body mounts.  Six under the pass area, two > at very front, and four in 
trunk
area, I believe. > > You'll need to remove the gas tank, or at least disconnect
the fuel line between > frame and tank.  If you leave it on, pay close 
attention
to the filler tube on > removal, so it doesn't chew up the bumper/license plate
area. > > Check the exhaust system, aftermarket mods may have hangers on the
body. > > Pull the master cylinder, if power assisted, at the booster. > >
Disconnect the steering at the coupler or steering gear. > > Disconnect the
bulkhead wiring harness under the wiper motor.  It'll be a two > piece plug 
that
seperates, one half for the engine, one half for the front > body.  Pull the
engine harness free, and lay it around the intake, somewhere... > > There's no
simple plug for the computer items under the hood.  The O2 sensor, > M/C
solenoid, TCC, etc, will need to be indidually unplugged, if so equipped. >
Don't forget that ground strap on the driver's side head, to the firewall. > >
The radiator will come out with the body, so you'll want to unhook it, as well 
>
as the heater hoses.  Don't forget the tranny cooler. > > Don't forget the
parking brake cable, either.  There's a clip under the driver's > seat area
(roughly) that couples two cables.  It'll probably break when you > disconnect
it.  Be pre-warned.  I'd imagene they're available. > > If you'll be re-using
the shell, keep the doors closed while removing, to add > some structural
integrity.  Some people will fabricate braces between the door > hinge, striker
plate, and rear seat belt mounts.  More advisable on ragtops and > T-top cars. 
>
If you're ~not~ re-using the shell...   Umm...  yank away! :) > > If you have
cruise control, disconnect the speedo cable on the inlet side. > (That's the 
one
heading down to the tranny.)  W/O cruise, disconnect speedo > cable at the
tranny, and get that 10mm (?) bolt holding the cable/clip onto the >
crossmember. > > Disconnect the throttle cable, and stick up on the cowling
area. > > Disconnect the shift linkage at the column, and perhapes wire that up
to the > exhaust???  Maybe. > > Hmm...  I ~know~ I'm forgetting parts,
especially since I've never done it, so > the ~best~ piece of advise I can 
give
is this: > TAKE YOUR TIME!!! > Have extra viewers while lifting the body, to
watch for any stretching parts. > > Good luck! > > - -- > Oldsmagnet - Charley
Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------| > mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail
direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   | > http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage
|\ |=|  |   |   | >    \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |
| >     \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  | >      V
===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ | >
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___| > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 00:22:45 -0400 > 
From:
Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM > Subject: Re: Windshield prices (was Windshield
Antennas) > > I think my deductable is about $200 so there wouldn't be much in
it for me > and I would be worried (rightly or wrongly) about my rates going 
up. > >
Lloyd Ferguson > ____________ > > Lloyd,  I don't know what state you live in,
but most states have no > deductable on glass. > > Joe Padavano >
padavano.joe@orbital.com > > 66 442 > 68 W-30 > 69 H/O > 70 W-30 > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 21:34:20 -0700 > 
From:
Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com> > Subject: Re: License plate choice > > how
about UU30? > - -----Original Message----- > From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
<Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca> > Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 9:33 PM >
Subject: Re: License plate choice > > >W30OLDS, W30 442, WTHIRTY, 1970W30,
OLDSW30,  442 W30,  70 W30,or  just > >W30. > >Car is a 1970 442 W-30 conv.
What do you think?  David OCA #30416 > >_____________ > > > >I think I'd put
money on all of those already being taken in just about any > >state.  When
Virginia went from six letters to  seven on personalized > >plates, I RAN down
to the DMV and scored WTHIRTY for my 70. > > > >Joe Padavano >
>padavano.joe@orbital.com > > > >66 442 > >68 W-30 > >69 H/O > >70 W-30 > > > 
> > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 21:37:02 -0700 > 
From:
Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com> > Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Re: High Rev's and
W's > > glass skin steel framework..kk > - -----Original Message----- > From:
Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca> > To: Oldsmobile
<oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca> > Date: Monday, September 21, 1998 6:33 PM >
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Re: High Rev's and W's > > > > >---------- Forwarded message
---------- > >From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com > >Subject: Re: High Rev's and W's > > >
>Mike, Thanks for the info. I may have to look into those other rear ends as > 
I >
>do a lot of highway. I can't really get anywhere from here without the >
>turnpike or an interstate...  "Been travelling quite a ways recently to the >
>shows (I definitely have the bug). The Hemmings show in Bennington was just >
>OK.  Way too many Beanie Babies at the swap. What's the attraction?  This >
>weekend in Ipswich, MA is what I'm told is the creme de la creme of >
>collector/exotics shows. > > > >One more about the W's. I know I don't have a
W-30 and the car is very low > on > >options, but I do have the scooped hood.
The thing is... it's steel, not > >glass. I can't find any references to
anything other than glass.  So where > did > >this hood come from?  The 
previous
owner claimed he spent $1400 incl. > shipping > >to get it (used). What car did
it come from?? > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 
1998
22:56:33 -0600 > From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com> > Subject: Re: License
plate choice > > > how about UU30? > > An Algebra professor could get > >
2(U-15) > > Been ~quite~ a while, but as memory serves, this ~does~ equal > >
UU-30  ...uhh....  right? > > - -- > Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney
Montana |\      |-------| > mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me 
|/\|=|
|   |   | > http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   | >
\ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   | >     \|/  List
Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  | >      V
===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ | >
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___| > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 22:01:48 +0000 > 
From:
Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com> > Subject: checking valve timing and chain
stretch without removing front cover > > Found out how to check valve timing
and/or timing chain stretch > WITHOUT removing the front cover today. > > 
Remove
the distributor cap, right valve cover and the #4 cyl rocker arms > and
pedestal. > turn engine to TDC on the #4 cyl (rotor pionting to #4 and timing
mark on > balancer lined > up with 0 on the pointer). > > set up a dial gauge 
on
the #4 intake push rod > > Rotate the engine to TDC #1 cylinder > > If the dial
reads 185-190 thousands, your valve timing is right > If the dial reads 125-130
thousands, your valve timing is retarded or > your chain is streched > If the
dial reads 250-255 thousands, your valve timing is to far advanced. > > these 
#s
are for stock engines and wouldn't work for engines > with aftermarket cams. > 
>
___ > Remember, Traffic light timed for traffic moving at 35 > are also timed
for traffic moving at 70. :) > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon,
21 Sep 1998 22:10:25 -0700 > From: mitzm@earthlink.net > Subject: Re: Coil
failure and MSD ? > > Thanks for the responses on my coil problems so far. > >
I've got the question in to MSD Tech support and will let y'all know what > 
they
say. > > The plugs are R45S gapped to 0.030 and are in good shape.  I am using
the > condenser that came with the points.  The instructions make no mention 
of >
not using a condenser. > > The installation instructions essentially say to
bypass the ignition > resistor wire and feed switched 12V directly to the +
terminal of the coil. > Clearly, this results in a higher voltage (12 V instead
of about 7 V IIRC) > to the coil during normal operation.   Seems like a 
smoking
gun for for > coil failure but thats the way they say to hook it up.  i figured
that the > higher coil voltage was part of the "benefit" of the MSD system and
that > the coils could take it.  Maybe not. > > hans in el segundo > >
Mitzm@mail.earthlink.net > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 22
Sep 1998 01:08:51 EDT > From: COUPEKING@aol.com > Subject: Yet more on 400/425
blocks > > Ran my question about the 425 piston into the 400 'E' block by 'the
rocket > scientist', Chris Witt, and he related seeing a cutaway 400 engine at
MSU. He > recalled being amazed at the thickness of the cylinder--he measured
3/8". > Sounds like going .063 won't pose any problem there. Apparently JM also
says > it's an OK deal. > > I'm going ahead at this point and I'll let the list
be the first to know if I > overheat... > > Peter > CoupeKing > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 22:34:23 -0700 > 
From:
James Thingwold <jht@exo.com> > Subject: Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425
engines > > Sorry - I was referring to the '68 G-block 400.  I've talked this
motor > over quite a bit with the guy who's '67 was the centerfold in May in >
Popular Hot Rodding, he had the pistons custom made that you referred to. > I 
am
building mine basically stock.  The pivotal point with mine will be > how much
it needs to be bored out.  So I'm just sort of getting a cross > reference to
what options are avail. in that instance. > > Thanks much - > > Lisa Madsen >
Anaheim, CA > > '66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '72 Cutlass Supreme
Convertible,  '72 > Vista Cruiser, '80 GMC > > Please E-Mail me at-----:
Lisa@hotglass.com > My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/ > Subscribe To
: Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List: > Lisa's Oldsmobile
FREE Banner Exchange > http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/ > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 01:43:56 EDT > From:
COUPEKING@aol.com > Subject: Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines > > 
Lisa- >
Have a core 'G' block motor, and all the major parts onterchange with the 455. 
>
Hard to find pistons for because they're small-3.875". Much better to go with >
a 455 block I've been told. > Toro radiator? > ps > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 23:27:38 -0700 > 
From:
"WI02 Rutschmann Brandon M. AO2" <BRutschm@vinson.navy.mil> > Subject: Still
working? > > I was just wondering if this is still working.  I havent heard 
from >
anyone in a while. > Brandon > 71 cutlass supreme > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 00:41:25 -0600 > 
From:
"Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com> > Subject: 0-60 times > > I am just
curious what would you 455 owners out there consider to be a good > 0-60 time
for the 455.  Considering my 455 is in a '81 Delta 4-door with > TH400 and
3.23s, I get aprox 6.5-7.0 sec to 60mph (traction limited).  I > hate the cam
that is in there now.  Tons of bottom end, no top end.  I think > that this 
time
could be improved to 5.5-6.0 if I could only get a decent > launch (incl. using
my converter (12-inch)) and be able to rev to 5500 RPM. > Just curious what
other owners get in there cars.  As I recall, in a past > car-craft on the back
where they had real rides, there was a cutlass with a > 350 rocket and some
other stuff doing 4.8sec. 0-60.  That must be nice.  I > would like high 5s or
so.  Is is possible.  Thanks.  Igor > > Igor Todorovic > 1981 Delta 88 4dr
(455/th400/3.23s) > 1981 Regency (307/200r4/propane) > 1981 Dodge Maxivan
(360/727/4.10s) > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998
00:45:16 -0600 > From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com> > Subject:
Buckets in '81 Delta > > Anyone know if a set of swivel bucket seats from a
mid-70s Cutlass or Regal > will fit into my '81 Delta.  If so, then which of 
the
consols from the > bone-yard could I get to fit my Delta.  I would like a 
consol
shifter and > bukets if possible.  What would be involved in a colomn to 
consol >
conversion.  Thanks. > > Igor Todorovic > 1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s) >
1981 Regency (307/200r4/propane) > 1981 Dodge Maxivan (360/727/4.10s) > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 03:31:45 EDT > From:
KWhite5590@aol.com > Subject: Re: g-body > > Hey Ray, > >  Yeah my windows go
slow too. Try a new motor from J.C. Whitney. > About $60 each. As far as the
tightening goes check to see if your > door's inner and out panel have
separated. My drivers side has and is causing > all sorts of chaos. Broken 
lock
striker, broken bushings, broken > roller. Replaced pins and bushings Sunday.
Now my window is acting up again. > > Kevin White > 83 CSB, FE3X clone > 86 CS 
> >
------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 09:51:26 > From:
<crl6420@online.no> > Subject: Edelbrock heads (2nd run) > > Hello, here is a
update on the olds heads... > > <from edelbrock> > > "We have the next
production run of the olds heads > to be ready for shipping the end on the 
first
- > week of Oct." > > Chris RL, Norway > > ------------------------------ > >
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 06:46:31 -0300 (ADT) > From: Greg Beaulieu
<ab348@chebucto.ns.ca> > Subject: UNBOUNCE: cowl tag info? > > Not on the list,
respond to Yorcoy@aol.com if you want to decode this... > > Greg Beaulieu
ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada > > - ----------
Forwarded message ---------- > From:   Yorcoy@aol.com > Subject: 68 cowl info? 
> >
I need Info on a 68 cowl tag. > 06d 025947 150031 > ST 68-34287  BF05531 > TR
974 B80 GA > Thanks for your help! > Please e-mail me directly yorcoy@aol.com 
> >
------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 06:53:03 EDT > From:
KWhite5590@aol.com > Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: G-Body Coil Springs > > Try 
Eibach. > >
Kevin White > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998
07:44:53 EDT > From: DKlauber@aol.com > Subject: Re: License plate choice > > I
only checked on 2, but both were available.  OLDSW30 is open, and W30 has > not
been registered since 1996 and she said I could get it. > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 07:53:31 EDT > From:
DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com > Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: '75 H/O Info > > In a message dated
98-09-21 21:37:39 EDT, you write: > > << 3J57T5M310001.  >> > as for the s/n in
1975 the last 6 numbers state the production starting at > 100001, so your
friends car was # 210,000 > as for Hot Rod magazine,, i have no record of 
that,,
i do have record of a > black 75 H/O used in Car Craft and a white one used in
Cars > > as for the value,, its really hard to say without knowing the 
condition
of the > car,, the interior parts of the 75s are very rare and not reproduced 
so
if > anythings missing,, you have to find another 75 H/O for parts,,, I have
seen > them sell for anywhere from $500 to $10-$13,000 for mint > > hope this
helps,, Jeffrey Fieldsend, Board of Director, OCC- Oldsmobile > Cutlass Coupes
73-77 > http://members.aol.com/cutlascoup/index.html > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 08:19:35 -0400 (EDT) 
>
From: tommr@webtv.net (tom m) > Subject: Re: ADMIN: List Down, Now Back... > >
greg, i need to be off the list as soon as possible. my email is > overflowing.
tom   tommr@webtv.net > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 22 Sep
1998 08:20:23 EDT > From: RGHaun@aol.com > Subject: Re: License plate choice > 
>
Good ole New York state socks the hell out of you for vanity plates, > not just
a one time charge. I had "THE442", but switched to > "Historical Plate". If you
have these plates your exempt from the > new sniff test and the registration is
only $23.00 a year. > > Ron Haun > 71 442W30 > Orchard Park, NY > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 08:50:30 -0400 > 
From:
"James E. Brady III" <James.E.Brady.1@gsfc.nasa.gov> > Subject: Re: 1975 olds 
88
convertable parts > > >I have a 1975 olds 88 convertable in  very good
condition, however I = > >need a few parts for it, like a map light . The paint
on my interior = > >door  and rear side panel  chrome decor strips is wearing
off. is there = > >a way to repaint them, to give them the depth they used to
have ?, My = > >plastic armrest housing for the front seat arm rest is cracked.
is there = > >a place to get a new one or have it repaired ? I can also use a
new  = > >drivers side turn signal lense . Is there any place that i can get
these = > >parts. I have tried Fusiks's, auto parts, with no luck. I also tried
= > >local junk yards. Maybee some one can direct me to another source !   = >
>thanks.,   Please return E. Mail to GMONTOWSKI@PRODEGY.NET>  thanks.  = >
>George M.=20 > > > Try: > http://www.usapartssupply.com/ > They supply parts
for big Oldsmobiles and Cadillacs.  I have dealt with > them three times 
through
the net and have no problems to report. > > Jim Brady > > 1973 Delta 88 Royale
Convertible > http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 08:14:00 -0500 > 
From:
"David Popadic" <davepop@execpc.com> > Subject: How much is reupholstering? > >
This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > -
------=_NextPart_000_00C2_01BDE600.F4652620 > Content-Type: text/plain; >
charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > Can
anyone give me a ball park figure on what I would expect to pay to = > have the
interior on my 1967 Cutlass Convertible reupholstered?  How = > hard is it to 
do
yourself? > > Thanks in advance > Dave > > ps  Big thanks to Kerry Kroger and
Andrew C. Green, I got my heater = > blower working on high again.  Seems that 
a
wire under the hood came = > loose?  Would have never thought to look there! > 
>
- ------=_NextPart_000_00C2_01BDE600.F4652620 > Content-Type: text/html; >
charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > 
<!DOCTYPE
HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN"> > <HTML> > <HEAD> > > <META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 = > http-equiv=3DContent-Type> > 
<META
content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR> > </HEAD> > <BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff> > <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Can anyone give me a ball park figure
on what I = > would expect=20 > to pay to have the interior on my 1967 Cutlass
Convertible = > reupholstered?&nbsp;=20 > How hard is it to do
yourself?</FONT></DIV> > <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> > <DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Thanks in advance</FONT></DIV> > <DIV><FONT 
size=3D2>Dave</FONT></DIV> >
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> > <DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> > <DIV><FONT size=3D2>ps&nbsp; Big thanks to Kerry
Kroger and Andrew C. = > Green, I got=20 > my heater blower working on high
again.&nbsp; Seems that a wire under = > the hood=20 > came loose?&nbsp; Would
have never thought to look=20 > there!</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML> > > -
------=_NextPart_000_00C2_01BDE600.F4652620-- > > 
------------------------------ > >
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 09:14:25 -0400 > From: "Brad Nicholson"
<brad442@erols.com> > Subject: OCA Web Site Links Wanted > > OCA Members, >
Double check the OCA Web Site @ http://www.oldsclub.org. If you want your > 
site
listed, drop me a line.  My PC crashed last week and I lost all the > links I
was going to add Oct 1, my apologies.  Now I'm running Win98 and > hopefully 
the
FAT problems on my PC should be fixed, wish I could do the > same to the ol' BF
Goodrich around me :-) > Brad Nicholson > OCA's WebGuy > brad442@erols.com >
webguy@oldsclub.org > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 22 Sep
1998 06:22:51 PDT > From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com> > Subject: Re:
Alternator or Battery > > >> Over the weekend my 94 Cav was going crazy again. 
>
[...] > > I'm having the same problem with a 97 Grand Am company car. > > The
tach will bury at 8k and the speedo will vary all over > > the map. The temp
gauge and gas gauge are also invilved in > > the "schizoid dance". > > Hmmm. If
this spreads to Oldsmobiles, there will be cause for > concern.  :-) > > These
symptoms are sufficiently whacko that there might be a > service bulletin out
for this (or maybe even a symptom chart > in a service manual). Maybe someone
with access to a dealer > can look into this. > > - -- Andy > >
______________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free
Email at http://www.hotmail.com > > ------------------------------ > > Date:
Tue, 22 Sep 1998 06:38:24 PDT > From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com> >
Subject: Re: License plate choice > > > I only checked on 2, but both were
available.  OLDSW30 is open, > > and W30 has not been registered since 1996 and
she said I could > > get it. > > Cool. Here in Illinois you have to mail in 
your
requests and wait > to find out what's available. If you get OLDSW30, see if 
you
get > to specify a place to put a space in (i.e. "OLDS W30" if it fits). > >
Only downside to this is if you ever change to another car, it has > to be
another Olds W30 (Audience: "THAT'S A PROBLEM?") or the plate > is useless. > >
My favorite are the folks who get, for instance, a blue Z-28, then > pay extra
to have personalized plates reading BLUE Z28. Duh. > > - -- Andy, who got his 
I
BYTE license plates on the evening news  :-) > >
______________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free
Email at http://www.hotmail.com > > ------------------------------ > > Date:
Tue, 22 Sep 1998 06:43:46 PDT > From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com> >
Subject: Re: Oil Light Problem > > >The oil pressure light switch on my 64
Cutlass was leaking so I > > replaced it. The leak is fixed, but now the oil
light won't go out. > > You sure they didn't sell you a sending unit by 
mistake?
The idiot > light switch should look practically identical to the old one; a >
sending unit will probably be noticeably larger. > > Removing the wire should
make the warning light go out. If it does, > and you're absolutely sure you
really _don't_ have a pressure > problem, they most likely sold you either a
defective idiot light > switch or a pressure sending unit instead. > > One 
other
thought: you didn't go crazy with the plumber's tape and > accidently cover the
open end of the switch with it, right? > > - -- Andy > >
______________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free
Email at http://www.hotmail.com > > ------------------------------ > > Date:
Tue, 22 Sep 1998 09:38:57 -0400 > From: "Thomas P. Smith"
<smithtp@ix.netcom.com> > Subject: Re: Oil Light Problem > > TimLeary97@aol.com
wrote: > > > The oil pressure light switch on my 64 Cutlass was leaking so I
replaced it. > > The leak is fixed, but now the oil light won't go out.  the
light was not lit > > with the old unit.  Did I miss something when I replaced
the switch, is there > > some type of a reset procedure?  The engine is a 330,
and I bought the new > > switch at NAPA.  I'm pretty sure the oil pressure is
good.  The engine was > > rebuilt 15,000 miles ago, and the valve train is
quiet. > >       Tim, > >     As you probably know, an oil pressure switch
(sending unit) is just > that, a > switch. It is on when there is no or low oil
pressure (light on)and it > is off when > there is adequate oil pressure(light
goes off). So, try this.  Turn on > the ignition switch, but do not start the
car. The light should be on. > Now, go pull the wire off > the switch.  The
light should now be off.  If it isn't, the wire that > runs between the oil
pressure switch and the light is grounded > somewhere. If the light does go out
when you pull the wire, the wiring > is okay. Reconnect it. If you're sure your
oil pressure is okay, suspect > a bad or incorrect oil pressure switch, even
though it's new.  To be > sure your oil pressure is okay, install an oil
pressure gauge. If you > install a tee into the block, you can install both the
current oil > pressure switch and oil pressure gauge fitting.  This will, at
least, > let you know what your oil pressure is > really doing. > >     
Finally,
ask NAPA if they're sure they gave you the right part.  I > mean, they did give
you the sending unit for a LIGHT and not a GAUGE, > right?  A sending unit for 
a
gauge is a variable resistor and will > always allow some current to pass, in
varying voltages, to the gauge. It > seems then, that if this were connected to
the light, the light would > always be on, but it should vary in brightness 
with
engine speed (oil > pressure). > >     Have fun, > >     Thomas P. Smith >
1971 Cutlass S 350 > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 22 Sep 
1998
09:55:51 EDT > From: KarlAune@aol.com > Subject: Re: Ignition Problem - Need
Advice > > In a message dated 98-09-19 17:45:04 EDT, you write: > > << I got on
the highway, with a rather heavy foot, drove a mile to my exit, > and as I
decelerated for the ramp nopticed that the engine was running a > little rough.
When I got to the top of the ramp and made a stop, she was > running really
rough.  I tried to keep her running by feathering the gas only > to succeed in
flooding the engine.  >> > > This actually sounds similar to my needle/seat
contaminant problem, except I > have yet to flood the motor under those
conditions. > > I am curious to know why this can happen because of overwarm
Holley fuel > bowls. > > In short, I tend to agree that this could well be more
carb than ignition > related. > > SOM > &KA > > ------------------------------ 
> >
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 10:04:27 -0400 > From: Todd Morris 
<toddmorr@us.ibm.com> >
Subject: To shim or not to shim > > It appears that I have a rear main leak in
my 455 that has fouled my clutch. > I'm resigned to the fairly major job of
removing the tranny, bell housing, > raising the engine, removing the oil pan,
and replacing the rear main seal. > I've done this several years ago when I
replaced an oil pump so its doable for > me but still a lot of work.  Anyway,
I've always had somewhat low oil > pressure---35 lbs at hot cruise, 3000RPM, so
I'm considering "shimming" the > pump, as has been mentioned on the list.
Apparently that will yield another 15 > lbs or so of pressure.  35 lbs at hot
cruise doesn't concern me too much but I > figure what the heck, as long as I'm
there, mightaswell try to raise it.  So, 2 > questions: what, exactly do you
shim?  Its just not obvious looking at an > exploded diagram of the oil pump as
found in the shop manual.  And, lastly, my > oil pump is a high volume Melling,
which supposedly delivers 20-25% more than > stock.  Is there a risk of sucking
the pan dry due to combining both high > volume and higher pressure? > > 
Another
approach would be to use the special oil pump spring kit that Mondello > sells.
I'd guess that'd be simply replacing the spring already in the pump but > the
same concern applies--high volume and high pressure leads to dry pan???? > >
Todd Morris > 71 442 > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 22 Sep
1998 10:09:10 -0400 > From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com> > 
Subject:
Re: Coil failure and MSD ? > > mitzm@earthlink.net wrote: > > > I am using the
condenser that came with the points.  The instructions make no > > mention of >
> not using a condenser. > > > >     ALWAYS use the condenser with points. As
the points separate, they will arc > badly without a condenser.  This will 
cause
greatly accelerated point > wear/pitting.  No condenser, or a bad one, also 
will
cause rough running and > may even cause hard starting. > > > The installation
instructions essentially say to bypass the ignition > > resistor wire and feed
switched 12V directly to the + terminal of the coil. > >     Please, don't 
take
this wrong.  I'm really wondering if our instructions > agree.  The 
instructions
I got with the MSD Blaster 2 coil specifically > indicate using a ballast
resistor with the coil when using the MSD Blaster or > the MSD 5 ignitions.  Do
yours indicate differently? > >     Take Care > >     Thomas P. Smith >     
1971
Cutlass S 350 > >     "If at first you don't succeed, OVERBORE!" > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 10:25:03 EDT > From:
KarlAune@aol.com > Subject: Wiper motor. > > Previously; > > I ordered a
remnufactured wiper motor for a 1965 4 4 2 for my 1965 Dynamic 88. > > I did
this based on finding no information in my manuals, Cutlass Assembly > manual,
or dealer literature that indicated that a different wiper motor was > used on
full size than on the F-85 models. > > Got it last Thursday? > Not really sure,
I was asleep at the time. > > Bolted it on this morning (yesterday for you 
guys)
with only a moderate amount > of fuss with that one nut that is specially
designed to slip off of the bolt, > or out of your fingers and fall between
fender and cowl, often never to be > seen again. > > Naturally, this nut did 
not
come with the wiper motor. > Too bad, I coulda used a spare for one of my four
wiper motor cores. > > (By the way if anyone has a source for these, please 
post
it!) > > What rather suprised me was that the 4 4 2 wiper motor came w/o a
washerfluid > pump assembly (the black plastic housing with the fluid lines
attached) which > incidentally was how I got started on this whole thing, but 
as
usual, I > digress. > > Not to worry, I have two washer pump assemblies, and 
one
disassembled with > little hope of ever being properly reassembled, but then I
believe it is from > a Buick. > > Bolt one on. Fits fine. > > After retrieving
that nut from the bottom lip of the inne fender, which I > could *just* see
under the car, I get the linkage attached to the motor. > Then the wiper motor
bolts on. > > Cool. > > Finally. > > Now Karl has high anxiety (youuuuuu win!),
but continues on to turn key to > accessory position so power to motor, fetch
wiper knob out of "catch-all" on > seat, place that over the fitting on the
dash. > > Engage. > > Aaaaahhhh! > > They work! > Wahoo! > No more cautious
driving in the rain! >  (well, you know what I mean!) > > And activate fluid
pump! > > Well results of that was disappointing, but it also worked! > > So
shut everything off, and go to close hood. > There is smoke coming from the
wiper motor. > > ????? > > It was coming from behind the electrical contacts 
for
the wiper motor are. Not > the contacts for the washer pump. Back in there 
where
the high speed resistor > is (whatever that is!) > > Now this W.M. looks very
out of place as it has what I decided must be a coat > of chrome paint covering
it entirely, even the high speed resistor. > > One of my non-functional wiper
motors did have smoke coming from this area, > but did not do anything. > > 
Greg
R.? > Can you contact the reman guys and find out why this might be? > > If the
H. S. Resistor burns out during normal use, am I covered by a > replacement or
something? > > If anything, on my car that sucker is getting less than optimal
current, so I > should NOT be overloading it. > > AND I know that the wipers
move freely as I moved them by hand before > installation. > > Thanks all! > >
Greg? > To call you I have to stay up 'til 11am here. > Not sure I wanna do
that. > > But thanks, you have been great! > > SOM > &KA > >
------------------------------ > > End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1498 >
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  i wish the web master would nimber the posts,this would make it much faster 
to
find and read the ones your interested in. how about it?

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1502
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