
oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, November 4 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1587



General Kinetics Cam & Components
Re: W/Z Manifolds and OAI Hoods
Re: Baaad Day!!!!!
Re: buying car
Re: Baaad Day!!!!!
Re: buying car
Convertible Well Liner
Window motor question
Power window conversion
Lights
Fw: Lights
Re: '84 Cutlass Supreme Charging/Electrical Problems
Fw: Lights
Re: power locks help
Nova Scotia
Re: november jwo
SUPPORT
Re: Baaad Day!!!!!
RE:power locks
Re: Convertible Well Liner
Rust Convertor Needed
Re: Lights
Re: Window motor question
Re: Rust Convertor Needed
Racing experience
Re: buying car
Engine pics up and parts pics too!!!
RE: Window motor question
Re: Engine pics up and parts pics too!!!
Re: Newbie Head Questions
Paging J Bauman (sp??) re: S & M
Re: Questions about adjusting QuadraJet
Re: Engine pics up and parts pics too!!!
Re: Questions about adjusting QuadraJet
Re: Power window conversion
Re: Power window conversion
Re: Garage Stuff 4 sale
Re: Paging J Bauman (sp??) re: S & M
Re: Paging J Bauman (sp??) re: S & M
Re: Paging J Bauman (sp??) re: S & M
Re: Newbie Head Questions
Re: Paging J Bauman (sp??) re: S & M
Dr Howard, Dr Fine, Mr Smetana
Re: Power window conversion
Re: Paging J Bauman (sp??) re: S & M
Re: Power window conversion
Re: buying car
Re: Lights
i'M GOING NORTH
Re: Power window conversion
Re: Nova Scotia  test.......dont read
Re: buying car
Re: New Purchase

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 22:42:58 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: General Kinetics Cam & Components

I would like to get a O4H-272-P cam, set of "Performance Hydraulic Lifter"
(what is the diff. between these and regular ones) for my 455.  It has a
stock valvetrain and  O4H-252-P right now.  It also has old pushrods from
before rebuild.  I would also like to get their pushrods O4P-OO (if that
price includes all the pushrods).  I am also thinking of getting their
valvesprings (# 951).  What improvement should these springs give me over
stock.  Also, how difficult are springs to install with the heads on the
motor.  Is the price good.  I also don't know what the rest of the stuff on
that list is.  Do you guys think that this combo sounds good.  My current
cam is too small for the 455, a little too much bottom end (1200-2000) not
enough top end (3000-5200). Here is the site:

http://www.dragnbreath.com/GeneralKinetics/OLDS260-455.html

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/propane/200-4r)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (367/727/4.10s)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 21:40:15 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: W/Z Manifolds and OAI Hoods

Who is the we, and how can they be contacted?

>>         The other interesting note is that we exclusively will have a
REAL OAI
>> hood for the 70 and 71-72 cars by January or February. These are
IDENTICAL
>
>HEE HEE!  Great news.  I remember a long time back we all were THINKING
>of trying to get this done.  What a GOOD Oldsmobile day!...
>
>Mike Rothe
>
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 00:06:35 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!

First off, what type of insurance coverage and company do you have? If the
car is covered for its actual value then they will have an adjuster
estimate what the cost of repair will be. If in the accident report, she is
the cause, then her insurance company should pay for all the damage. Now
here comes the bad news. Most likely her insurance company will want to pay
the LEAST amount they have to. So let's say you need a new bumper, hood,
fender.... All the hardware may total $3000. Now the labor may come out to
$1500. So a total of $4500 to do it CORRECTLY. Her insurance company will
try to cut corners and pay the least amount. I know you don't want no
JOE-SHMOE bodywork done to the car. So go after all the $$$ you can. It is
her fault and she must pay the consequences. If that don't work, HIRE A
LAWYER, and sue her civilly.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: person <vbdeveloper@Worldnet.ATT.NET>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Baaad Day!!!!!
> Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 1:42 PM
>
> So I take a day off from work, drive down to my local muffler shop to get
a
> new exhaust. Nice, warm, sunny So Florida day. I have the top down and
all
> is well.....Until a woman(no disrespect to women) driving a
rice-burner(all
> the disrespect to rice-burners) swings out to make a left without seeing
me.
> Bam!!!(at about 30 mph) Of course, the OLDS won. The rice-burner is
dead,the
> woman is OK(thankfully) .The right front area bumper,hood,fender etc ) on
> the OLDS is damaged. However, I have never dealt with insurance adjusters
on
> this car(and hope never will again). How will they be able to estimate
the
> damage?? I do not want money, I want my Bubba fixed.. Has anyone out
there
> ever dealt with insurance companies?  I would appreciate any help, advise
> etc.....
>
>
> =========================================
> '69 Olds Ninety-Eight Topless (slightly hurt)Bubba===
> =========================================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 00:26:43 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: buying car

For that price make sure it is a REAL 442. Also it probably needs ALOT of
work. It may need drivetrain and or bodywork, which both cost ALOT of $$$$.
You are sometimes better of paying more for the car and having it aloready
done than buying one that needs work. Unless you have alot of $$$$, in that
case, send some to me....
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: buying car
> Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 7:12 PM
>
> i found a car i'm probably going to buy.  it's a 1970 442 w/ram air,
spoiler,
> ss 2's, and 4.11 rear end.  the guy is asking 2650 but he said he would
take
> 2100 cash.  i'll have to let you guys know this weekend if i do buy it.
hey
> if i'm lucky, it might be a 4 speed.  the ad doesn't say and i forgot to
ask
> him.  oh well.
>
> mikeytvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 00:30:10 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!

If you have your own web page then upload a pic of the damage. maybe then
we can see if it really maybe considered "totaled".

Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!
> Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 9:10 PM

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 00:43:49 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: buying car

Make sure you also check the usual rot spots.  Take a magnet with you to
check for holes filled with Bondo.  If your not a real gearhead take a buddy
along that is to look at the motor etc.  Check for signs of covered up
damage
and climb under the car to check the floorpan for rust.  Don't let yourself
get
carried away and take the car on impulse.  Look it over really good and ask
a lot of questions like where he got it, how long he's had it etc.  Don't
know
where you live, but if you live down south and you think that your safe from
major rust think again.  There are a lot of people I've seen bringing rust
buckets down from up north and patching them up and selling them to the
unsuspecting.  Would you believe I saw one car that had the bottom of the
frame rusted out then patched with aluminum and finished off with Bondo!?
Just be sure of what your buying.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme



>For that price make sure it is a REAL 442. Also it probably needs ALOT of
>work. It may need drivetrain and or bodywork, which both cost ALOT of $$$$.
>You are sometimes better of paying more for the car and having it aloready
>done than buying one that needs work. Unless you have alot of $$$$, in that
>case, send some to me....
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>----------
>>
>> i found a car i'm probably going to buy.  it's a 1970 442 w/ram air,
>spoiler,
>> ss 2's, and 4.11 rear end.  the guy is asking 2650 but he said he would
>take
>> 2100 cash.  i'll have to let you guys know this weekend if i do buy it.
>hey
>> if i'm lucky, it might be a 4 speed.  the ad doesn't say and i forgot to
>ask
>> him.  oh well.
>>
>> mikeytvb@aol.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 00:53:14 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Convertible Well Liner

Is is better to change the well liner on a convertible while the whole top
is off the car, or while it is back on the car? This is on a 72 442
convertible. The car is stripped apart and being painted and the whole top
assembly was removed.


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 01:11:48 -0600
From: Albert Meyer <Olds@AustinTX.net>
Subject: Window motor question

I have a bad power window motor in my 68 98. It's the little rear window on
the driver's side. I pulled out the back seat and interior panels and I can
see the motor but can't get at it. It looks like the window has to be up to
pull the motor - unfortunately it is stuck down. I tried pulling it up but
it wouldn't budge. Does anyone know how to get the window up, or how to get
at the motor with the window down? Also, can this motor be rebuilt? Where
can I get rebuild parts or have it rebuilt?

Also, I need a RF turn signal lens to get the car past safety inspection.
I'm placing another ad at 442.com, and if that doesn't work I guess I'll
call Desert Dog and pay their inflated prices. Are there any other good
places to advertise for fullsize Olds parts? The turn signal lens is a
bitch to find because it's a 68-only item. I've been looking for months,
and placed an ad at 442.com a while back, but it was for a whole bunch of
parts I needed. I got many of the parts I needed (thanks to Chris Witt, and
Austin Auto and Truck Recycling); the turn signal lens is the last thing I
need to pass inspection and get on the road.
'68 98 Convertible 455 - Still looking for a parts car
Austin, Texas mailto:Olds@AustinTX.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 01:18:38 -0600
From: Shang <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Power window conversion

Does anyone have any info about converting a manual window car to power
windows? I know the motors are available - but is there anything
different about the tracks? Is just a matter of installing the motor and
switch?

Any help greatly appreciated.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 02:31:40 -0600
From: "Ron Hengerer" <rhengerer@email.msn.com>
Subject: Lights

I recently bought a 74 Cutless S.  The car is in great shape, ( 14,000
original miles ) and it hasen't taken me long to see why Old's has such a
following.  The only two interior lights I have are the lights in the
headliner  just behind the front seats.  I have looked under the dash but
did not see any empty sockets or burned out bulbs.  Did the Cutless come
with lights in the front seat area and if they did where would they be
located.

Thanks Ron

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 02:40:20 -0600
From: "Ron Hengerer" <rhengerer@email.msn.com>
Subject: Fw: Lights

- -----Original Message-----
From: Ron Hengerer <rhengerer@email.msn.com>
To: Old's list <Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; G-Body List
<olds_gbody@listbot.com>
Date: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 2:31 AM
Subject: Lights


>I recently bought a 74 Cutless S.  The car is in great shape, ( 14,000
>original miles ) and it hasen't taken me long to see why Old's has such a
>following.  The only two interior lights I have are the lights in the
>headliner  just behind the front seats.  I have looked under the dash but
>did not see any empty sockets or burned out bulbs.  Did the Cutless come
>with lights in the front seat area and if they did where would they be
>located.
>
>Thanks Ron
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 01:48:24 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: '84 Cutlass Supreme Charging/Electrical Problems

> I just got this from Luis Chevere, who used to be on the Olds List
> but isn't any more.
> While I am at a traffic light or stop sign and my
> > car is on and I have my foot on the brakes, all of my lights and
> > stereo dim.
> All I can think of is bad cables/grounds, or a bad alternator,
> except that he says he had it tested already.

Luis, et al...  A couple thoughts come immediately to mind.  First, what's the
idle speed???  Almost all alternators will charge poorly at idle.  Especially
with accessories such as headlights on.  Those brake lights actually draw quite
a bit of juice, too.  Although, in good condition, the electrical should ~not~
cause the car to stall...  Does it idle OK with the lights off?

Have you (anyone else) bypassed the regulator at idle?  Done by shorting the
"D"
terminal in the back of the alternator.  This will "full-field" the alternator,
forcing maximum output.  Test voltage at idle that way.  If it jumps way up,
this tells you the regulator probably isn't kicking in correctly, and warrants
further testing.

Is the alternator charging ~at all~ on the vehicle?  Do you have access to a
digital voltmeter?  If not, here's something you can try with ease.  With car
running ~CAREFULLY~ place a flat screwdriver on the shaft infront of the
alternator pully (the rotor's shaft)  If the alternator is energized and
charging, a magnetic force will pull the screwdriver into the alternator shaft.
(Not violently, but use caution regardless...)  Watch out for that fan and
belt...  You can't stop 'em, it's like a machine or something...  ;)

Keep in mind, I've seen countless rebuilt alternators dead on arrival.  (No
aftermarket supplier flames, please)  Also, what does "replaced" fully consist
of, was it new, rebuilt, or just another one from a donor car?  They can be
rebuilt incorrectly, or incompletely.  (Reusing brushes, mis diagnosing diodes,
etc...)  Two weeks ago, I was asked to pull our salesman's alternator (85 442,
charging weak)  "I'll buy you a pop if you take that off for me..." (I was
thirsty :)  Told me the headlights would dim and stereo cut out with heater on,
or on heavy bass hits, worse than normal.  Sounds like brushes, I told him...
"It was just rebuilt a year ago"  "So, it obviously ain't working right,
~right?!~"  I got it off, and gave it a spin in my hand.  Little noisy, could
have used bearings, but spun easily.  Almost too easily.  Told him he might
have
weak brushes, possibly.  Took it next door to NAPA, his dad works there :)
They
ran it on their "tester"... "Yup, checks out fine."
He came back, with the results.  I gave him a funny look, and started tearing
it
apart anyway.  (If it aint broke, tear it apart!)  First thing I see is a
strange wear pattern on the lower brush.  Closer inspection revealed a broken
bruh holder.  It had been that way for a year.  Replaced it, and all OK
again...  And I had a fresh, cold Mountain Dew!  :)

So, for your situation, I'd recommend some running voltage tests, with and
without loads, and go from there.



Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 03:03:25 -0600
From: "Ron Hengerer" <rhengerer@email.msn.com>
Subject: Fw: Lights

- -----Original Message-----
From: Ron Hengerer <rhengerer@email.msn.com>
To: Old's list <Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; G-Body List
<olds_gbody@listbot.com>
Date: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 2:40 AM
Subject: Fw: Lights


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Ron Hengerer <rhengerer@email.msn.com>
>To: Old's list <Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; G-Body List
><olds_gbody@listbot.com>
>Date: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 2:31 AM
>Subject: Lights
>
>
>>I recently bought a 74 Cutless S.  The car is in great shape, ( 14,000
>>original miles ) and it hasen't taken me long to see why Old's has such a
>>following.  The only two interior lights I have are the lights in the
>>headliner  just behind the front seats.  I have looked under the dash but
>>did not see any empty sockets or burned out bulbs.  Did the Cutless come
>>with lights in the front seat area and if they did where would they be
>>located.
>>
>>Thanks Ron
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 02:03:57 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: power locks help

> Hello it Rocco Vita
>  you need to replace your power lock relay this part is located on the
> passenger side foot well  under your glover box. write back if you need
> more help

Hang on a second!  That relay is what's clicking behind the glove box.  Those
~usually~ don't go bad.  Door lock motors usually go long before the relay.
Does the driver's lock work?  It was never said, but never said it didn't,
either, except for the "only sound" part...  Does the "lock" function work?  If
both lock, but neither unlocks, then the relay may well be the culprit.  But,
if
neither lock or unlocks, from either switch, and the relay clicks, there's a
good chance the lock motors have both died.  This would be time for a voltage
test.  (Yes, I've seen them fail at the same time, too.  Stands to reason,
since
each is as old as the other, and they both have an equal amount of miles on em
(so to speak... ;)

I'd be for testing some voltages before replacing anything.
- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 01:14:17 -0800
From: "ST" <sandyt@tstonramp.com>
Subject: Nova Scotia

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE0790.71E0DE40
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Dear Oldsmobile,=20
Certainly, Nova Scotia is a high tech place.=20
It is rather cool there year round.=20
I hope I can find postings of Oldsmobile police cars. And fire cars. =
They are few around.=20
Sincerely,=20
Bryan Tint=20

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE0790.71E0DE40
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Dear Oldsmobile, </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Certainly, Nova Scotia is a high =
tech place.=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>It is rather cool there year round.=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I hope I can find postings of =
Oldsmobile police=20
cars. And fire cars. They are few around. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Sincerely, </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Bryan Tint =
</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE0790.71E0DE40--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 06:49:09 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: november jwo

> Jeff wrote:
> anyone get the nov jwo yet>>>>>

I got mine yesterday. Just gave it a quick look, didn't seem to be much in
it this month.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 07:51:50 -0500 (EST)
From: jhbII <jh2nlla@noblecan.org>
Subject: SUPPORT

Hi List Members,
It seems that at least 2 or 3 times a week someone is asking "who is the
best source for" or has ,"has anyone done business  with..." Come on "list"
lets SUPPORT "our" own! I am talking about Jim Chermack and Greg Rollins.
If you need an interior part, exterior part, or just a used part call Jim
and I'm sure he will beat or at least match any price with in reason. As far
as engine parts, from the correct alternators,bushings,disc brakes to hose
clamps call Greg. I dont know if Greg will match prices but I'm sure he will
be fair! These 2 guys are always adding there comments and expertise to the
"List". I personally think "WE" should at least give"THEM" a chance to serve
us before the others.
We have all heard the "HORROR" stories about the "other" guys. Has anyone
heard stories about these two? I highly doubt it! I have talked with both of
these people several times,and they have always been kind and helpful.
SO COME ON "LIST"!!! Lets "SUPPORT" our "own". Call these guys first,ask
about the "others" later,if Greg and Jim can't help.
Greg Rollins                       Jim Chermack
Supercars Unlimited                C&M Classic Parts
503 244 8249                       757 474 0869
I hope everyone will at least try to keep our "own" going.
Thanks, Jack                                                        PS I
hope I didn't leave a vendor out. If I did I'm sorry,its just that these 2
came into mind,and I have talked with both.
          PSS I knew I forgot one, Mark at Dr. Decal!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 03:39:38 -0800
From: mrada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!

Peter Landowski wrote:

> her fault and she must pay the consequences. If that don't work, HIRE A
> LAWYER, and sue her civilly.

This is the route I had to go and still no resolution.  Accident was in
March
on 1997.  Be prepared to wait.  I had to fix the car myself so that I
wouldn't
see it wrecked in my driveway.

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 09:29:33 EST
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: RE:power locks

>Does the driver's lock work?  It was never said, but never said it didn't,
>either, except for the "only sound" part...  Does the "lock" function work?
If
>both lock, but neither unlocks, then the relay may well be the culprit.  But,
if
>neither lock or unlocks, from either switch, and the relay clicks, there's a
>good chance the lock motors have both died

yes both of the locks do not work but i do have a good relay switch and good
motors on my other cutlass

>This would be time for a voltage test

i will try that first then start switching stuff around
thanks Rich

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 09:39:42 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: Convertible Well Liner

Replace the well liner while the top is being installed.  It attaches to the
same tack strip as the top and rear window curtain  (three layers get kind of
awkward) and it all goes back in the car together.  Don't forget to reinstall
the plastic rain gutter when you are finished.  You do still have it don't
you?
If not you will need to locate one.  Sometimes they are left out by lazy top
installers.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 10:04:24 -0500
From: Kirk Preston <jprest@flash.net>
Subject: Rust Convertor Needed

I've just purchased a nice '86 442 and plan to re-furbish the
undercarriage over the winter.  A number of years ago I purchased a
gallon of Zintex from an outfit called T N Cowan Intl in Alvarado, TX.
My problem is that I've used it up, T N Cowan appears to be out of
business, and to-date haven't been able to find a suitable replacement.
The Zintex is a NON-latex rust convertor (doesn't show brush marks like
the thick latex junk products, uses moisture/water to react, can be
applied straight for maximum protection or diluted with water for
maximum penetration in a first coat).  It basically converts ordinary
iron oxide (rust) to various stable forms of iron oxide such as
hematite, iron tannate, and magnetite (similar to black iron oxide
plating).  The result is a hard, black surface which can form an
excellent base for primer and paint. Anyone out there have a
recommendation for anything that will work as well as Zintex?


John Preston
'86 442
'85 Cap*ice daily driver

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 07:20:17 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Lights

> I recently bought a 74 Cutless S.  The car is in great shape (14,000
> original miles) and it hasn't taken me long to see why Old's has such
> a following.

Is this that white one that someone (okay, you I guess) nabbed at an
estate sale or something like that? Pictures of it were on a web page?

> The only two interior lights I have are the lights in the headliner
> just behind the front seats.  I have looked under the dash but
> did not see any empty sockets or burned out bulbs. Did the Cutlass
> come with lights in the front seat area and if they did where would
> they be located.

They were kind of chintzy with the lights for a long time. You have
not overlooked any. But you can _add_ some underdash/floor lights if
you feel like doing a little crawling around under the dash. I'm
pretty sure they were an option and that you'd find the light
assemblies on similar Cutlasses; you can probably search '73-'77
models for the same parts and maybe even newer ones. They're usually
ray plastic housings that clip into slots punched in the lower edge of
the dash. They wire into the switched-ground interior light circuit:
the +12V wires are orange with a white tracer, and the switched ground
is white. If you poke around behind the dash you'll probably find
these wires paired up together. You may find a plug-in connector where
the optional floor lights plugged in to the rest of the wiring harness
in the vicinity of the glove box; try removing it and see what
connectors you find back there.

Actually it might make more sense to study the car you get the lights
out of so you know what you're looking for on your own car. Duh.  :-)
IOW, don't just cut the light wiring out of the junk donor, but trace
the wires back into the dash and you should get to an in-line plug
or two that you simply pop apart. The female half is usually on the
main wiring harness and probably exists, unused, on your own car.

Elsewhere I think there should be a map light just above the stereo
which might (I forget) be supposed to come on with the interior
lights. Buicks have lights set into the lower edge of the rear view
mirror that might be a nice addition if you feel like running a supply
wire, and with more surgery you could also add a dome light of your
own from another car, although you'd probably have some work to do
adding the wiring harness inside the headliner since I doubt it would
be there in your car already.

- -- Andy


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 07:35:13 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Window motor question

> I have a bad power window motor in my 68 98. It's the little rear
> window on the driver's side. I pulled out the back seat and interior
> panels and I can see the motor but can't get at it. It looks like
> the window has to be up to pull the motor - unfortunately it is
> stuck down. I tried pulling it up but it wouldn't budge. Does anyone
> know how to get the window up, or how to get at the motor with the
> window down?

Thump on it. No, really. Whack it a few times with a two-by-four,
rubber mallet or whatever you can reach it with, anywhere you can
get at it, then put the switch assembly back on and see if it'll
move. If it does, running it up and down eight zillion times might
be all it needs.

I assume you've verified that it's getting power, too? The wiring
circuit is pretty complex through the switches but there should be
some juice getting through to the connector going to the motor.

> Also, can this motor be rebuilt? Where
> can I get rebuild parts or have it rebuilt?

Dunno; they tend to be sealed units. If you can get it going at all,
the best thing for it might simply be to run it for a while since I
assume yours died from lack of use, not too much of it.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 10:50:05 EST
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rust Convertor Needed

go to    www.por15.com      that is the best stuff i ever used for rust and
almost everybody on the list would probably recommend it.  So far everthing
that I have gotten from them has worked perfectly just like they said it
would.  just my 2 cents Rich
82 cutlass supreme
85 cutlass supreme (parts car now   :(

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 10:54:04 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Racing experience

somebody posted something today or late last night and I accidentally deleted
it.  Could you please repost what you wrote.

Thanks
W MACHINES

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 11:10:52 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: buying car

I can second this but I think sometimes you will have big trouble and big
$$$$ when you buy a so called newly restiored car... We all have read
posts in which an _engine rebuilt_ unmasked itself as a ring replacement!
I also know people who had the bondo falling of the fender after some
time though the car looked like new! (I personnaly know a bondo artist
body shop, where you really can't tell by the look!)

I would put it this way: Be careful with every buy but it is much easier
to buy a piece of crap and be aware of it then evaluating the real value
of a restauration you just look at after it is done!

George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Wed, 4 Nov 1998, Peter Landowski wrote:

> For that price make sure it is a REAL 442. Also it probably needs ALOT of
> work. It may need drivetrain and or bodywork, which both cost ALOT of $$$$.
> You are sometimes better of paying more for the car and having it aloready
> done than buying one that needs work. Unless you have alot of $$$$, in that
> case, send some to me....
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
> ----------
> > From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: buying car
> > Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 7:12 PM
> >
> > i found a car i'm probably going to buy.  it's a 1970 442 w/ram air,
> spoiler,
> > ss 2's, and 4.11 rear end.  the guy is asking 2650 but he said he would
> take
> > 2100 cash.  i'll have to let you guys know this weekend if i do buy it.
> hey
> > if i'm lucky, it might be a 4 speed.  the ad doesn't say and i forgot to
> ask
> > him.  oh well.

> >
> > mikeytvb@aol.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 11:18:20 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Engine pics up and parts pics too!!!

Hi List,

finally I could get my hand on a digital camera and I have put two pics
of the freshly rebuilt 350 on my olds page. (There was a request for olds
engine pics some time ago on the list, so whoever wants it can grab it.)

http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html

I also try to clean up my livingroom and I made some pics of parts I
will send you for a donation plus shipping. I have a 68 2bbl carb,
intake, air cleaner, a tornado intake (4bbl) and a unidentified intake.
Also there are some valve covers in good shape. Take a look at the parts
on:

http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/parts.html


So long, and let me know how you like my new power source!

George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 09:30:42 -0800
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Window motor question

> > I have a bad power window motor in my 68 98. It's the little rear
> > window on the driver's side. I pulled out the back seat and interior
> > panels and I can see the motor but can't get at it. It looks like
> > the window has to be up to pull the motor - unfortunately it is
> > stuck down. I tried pulling it up but it wouldn't budge. Does anyone
> > know how to get the window up, or how to get at the motor with the
> > window down?

Once you've taken off the trim and a metal panel which sometimes hides
the whole mechanism, ----

There are 3 bolts which can be removed with a 7/16's socket, but secure the
window in it's down positions before removing the motor. This spring loaded
mechanism is loaded when its in the down position. This means that
when you take of the motor, the window will want to spring up and can damage
your hand. Be very careful about this.

One way to go at this is to take that same 7/16's wrench and remove the nuts
which secure the entire window assembly to the body. Once every thing is
loose,
you can probably remove the motor. Again, after securing the position of the
window.

You may have to remove the window glass to get things loose enough.

In a certain up/down position of the window, two pretty big holes line up --
like 3/4"
holes. I just shoved a big screwdriver in there to limit the window travel
once the motor was
removed. I think this was GM's safety precaution.

The motors are sealed. You can't rebuild them, but they are common to
virtually
every GM car from 1966 or so to 1976. When you go boneyard hunting, get rear
window motors -- they're used less typically. Also avoid rusty cruddy ones.
The
motors are the same from front window to back window, but you'll need to
pull
one from the correct _side_ of the car -- either left or right.

> I assume you've verified that it's getting power, too? The wiring
> circuit is pretty complex through the switches but there should be
> some juice getting through to the connector going to the motor.

Good idea to check power before assuming it's the motor. Especially in the
back. Write again if you need circuiting advice.

Good luck
cf

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 12:41:39 -0500 (EST)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Re: Engine pics up and parts pics too!!!

I love it... Rebuilt engine in the LIVING ROOM!!!! No better place to work!!

I thought I was the only one crazy enough to use the living room..
actually, it took the living room, dining room, kitchen, family room etd..

Enjoy

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 13:07:39 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Newbie Head Questions

A certain authority on the subject wrote:   :-)}

<< Question #2:  The original valve stem seals color codes are black on the
intakes and white on the exhausts.  All 67 330's use the same stem seals.  >>


What??

Karl was not aware that cyl head valve seals were color coded.

Inchiching.

Um.
Anyone out there know what the valve seal codes are for a 1965 425 with "A"
heads?

Thanks much!

SOM

&KA
ICQ #20414415
http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 13:07:47 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Paging J Bauman (sp??) re: S & M

Sorry gang.

Looking for Jim (???) Baumann who (if you recall) was looking for the hood
letters "S" and "M" for his 1965 car.

(No, please do not bother. You guys had your yuks back then!)

Jim (is it Jim?), Going yarde-ing soon. May be able to get letters.

Let you know.

Just need your address.

Guess it got lost when Karl re-partitioned the hard drive!

Thanks for patience!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 13:15:37 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Questions about adjusting QuadraJet

In a message dated 98-11-03 15:48:12 EST, you write:

<< I want to rejet because for one the carb didn't come from that engine.
For two, the carb ran great up until I put the Edelbrock cam, lifters,
and intake in. Now the mixture screws are both turned out 5.25 turns
and it still has a slight hesitation off the line from lack of gas. >>

Ah! So airflow is better than stock. In this case, yes, perhaps you need only
go up one jet size. You can get the jets from Edelbrock as their Performer
carb is based on the Q-Jet and uses interchangeable jets/rods with some Q-
Jets, but call and ask for confirmation (because I am not 100% certain of
interchange).

> 2) As you are investigating the matter anyway, please send me your
carb
> application # (on the triangular, silvered tin tag) and the part #
on the carb
> housing (these appear to be similar but are usually very different).
And any
> picures of it you might have of it.
-------------------------------------------------------

I will do my best! I will try to get some good pics of it also. I kind
of have to wait a bit though. I am still unable to get my hood open
since the accident. Haven't touched it until insurance gets done
farting around, trying to figure out what they want to do with it. >>

Yikes!
Dint know about bad stuff.
My condolences for you and your Oldsmobile.
Did something similar in January.
My fault.
Felt miserable for about three months.

But thanks much!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 11:20:12 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Engine pics up and parts pics too!!!

I really like the gold.  I wanted my engine in the car so fast, never took
pictures.  Damn.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/propane/200-4r)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (367/727/4.10s)

igor455@home.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 13:31:35 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Questions about adjusting QuadraJet

In a message Karl writes:

<< << I want to rejet because for one the carb didn't come from that engine.
  For two, the carb ran great up until I put the Edelbrock cam, lifters,
  and intake in. Now the mixture screws are both turned out 5.25 turns
  and it still has a slight hesitation off the line from lack of gas. >>

Ah! So airflow is better than stock. In this case, yes, perhaps you need only
go up one jet size. >>

Note: The Primary system is what needs adjusting! Your secondaries should be
fine!
Also: It is possible that rather than jets, a rod selection than allows more
fuel sooner is needed. In order to up-jet, more fuel must be required at all
part throttle applications!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 13:29:57 -0500
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Power window conversion

Stephen

        Yes there is a difference in the regulators. They have to come out of a
car with power windows. I have done two of these conversions. You must also get
the entire wiring harness and the relay for it. You will also have to remove
the doors and put the 2 inch holes in the cowl and door to get the wire boot
ini.

Jim Chermack

At 02:18 AM 11/4/98 , you wrote:
>Does anyone have any info about converting a manual window car to power
>windows? I know the motors are available - but is there anything
>different about the tracks? Is just a matter of installing the motor and
>switch?
>
>Any help greatly appreciated.
>
>Stephen Hoover
>Dallas, Texas
>'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 10:47:07 -0800
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Power window conversion

Jim Chermack wrote:

> Yes there is a difference in the regulators. They have to come out of a
> car with power windows. I have done two of these conversions. You must

You mean you can't just pop out the shaft for the roll up lever?  I am
assumming that this shaft has a similar teething as an electric motor.

> also get the entire wiring harness and the relay for it. You will also have

Where is this relay located?

> to remove the doors and put the 2 inch holes in the cowl and door to get
> the wire boot in.

2 inch holes?!? or 2 1-inch holes?  I don't recall the harness hole
being
all that round, maybe 1/2 inch diameter (on Scarlet).

Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 13:58:30 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Garage Stuff 4 sale

> Robert Schinkel wrote:
> > Sorry Cliff no luck in finding that rare chrome piece
> > Good luck in your hunt
> >
>
> Are the 68 and 69 442 chrome pieces the same for both years (or same
> year)?
> Are these really that rare?
>
>

Yes Chris they are that rare.  The chrome trim that goes on the lip of the
69 442 is exclusively for the 69 and is extremely hard to locate in good
condition and compete.
And as far as I know the 68 is completely different

Robert Schinkel

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 10:56:11 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Paging J Bauman (sp??) re: S & M

> Jim (is it Jim?), Going yarde-ing soon. May be able to get letters.

Yo, Karl, you are going to get _all_ the letters, right? Odds are that
just replacing the missing letters in "O L D     O B I L E" will look
kind of funny if the replacements have weathered or aged differently.

Digression: Ever been behind a '68 Firebird with its "P O N T I A C"
letters rearranged to spell out "A N T I C O P"? What can you rearrange
"O L D S M O B I L E" to spell out?

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 14:07:46 -0500 (EST)
From: zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu
Subject: Re: Paging J Bauman (sp??) re: S & M

On Wed, 4 Nov 1998, Andrew C. Green wrote:

> Digression: Ever been behind a '68 Firebird with its "P O N T I A C"
> letters rearranged to spell out "A N T I C O P"? What can you rearrange
> "O L D S M O B I L E" to spell out?

O L D M O B I L E S
M O B I L E S L O D
B O O M S I E L L D (Okay... so this'n doesn't say anything... sorta cool
though huh?)
M O O D S B E L L I
M O D S B O I L L I (I'm really trying here)
and backwards....
E L I B O M S D L O
and the only good one I could come up with...
D O O M S B E L L I

Anywayz... 'nuff bandwidth for now :-0




    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
|  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
|  |  |
|  |  |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
| / \ |
|/   \|     1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
  \   /         (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
   \ /          http://www.442.com/pierce.html
    |        1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass Brougham
(parts car) (307, 4bbl, TH350, 2.14:1, 90k miles)
     1980 Rover 3500 SD1
        (215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/othercars.html
          1979 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
(260 V8, 2bbl, TH350)
http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/79cutlass.html
     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"
http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/bonneville.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 14:30:20 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Paging J Bauman (sp??) re: S & M

In a message dated 98-11-04 14:10:32 EST, you write:

<<  Digression: Ever been behind a '68 Firebird with its "P O N T I A C"
> letters rearranged to spell out "A N T I C O P"? What can you rearrange
> "O L D S M O B I L E" to spell out?
  >>
Well if you leave out the B and I  you can come up with  SOME DOLL

I wish people talk about something more Oldsmobile related whether its cars,
collectibles, clubs or Racing,  especially Racing,  Drag racing that is. I
think it is important for the new people to understand why this list was
created by Greg.  I make a comment on racing experience and get three replies
and then somebody puts a Paging somebody and has a whole slew of comments.  Is
this list made up of bench racers or bench enthusiasts or do people actually
drive and stomp on their cars????  Just my 1.95$ question.  I don't mind
deleting, but the stupid stuff needs to stop.  If you need some guidance, I
can provide Oldsmobile digests from day 1 to present.  It all started back in
96 and it needs to upgrade itself.

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30 Race Rocket
visit http://members.aol.com to see actual cars and Oldsmobile links

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 13:52:01 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: Newbie Head Questions

>Karl was not aware that cyl head valve seals were color coded.
>
They certainly are
>
>Um.
>Anyone out there know what the valve seal codes are for a 1965 425 with "A"
>heads?
>
>I'm guessin' the same. The Fel-Pro overhaul gasket sets I've gotten for
Olds have all come with black & opaque white valve stem seals. Chebby ones
had little o-rings.

roger

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 14:44:03 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Paging J Bauman (sp??) re: S & M

how about
BLOS MOLDIE
or
SMILE BLOOD

mARK

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 13:57:29 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Dr Howard, Dr Fine, Mr Smetana

Wher you been Chris?  What's the progress on that W-31?

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 15:48:10 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Power window conversion

On Wed, 4 Nov 1998, Chris Sparks wrote:
> You mean you can't just pop out the shaft for the roll up lever?  I am
> assumming that this shaft has a similar teething as an electric motor.

Back in the old days especially, GM seemed to go out of their way to make
as many different designs for things as possible. This is one. The PW
regulators are different from the crank-up ones, and AFAIK you can't use
the manual ones and still look factory.

> 2 inch holes?!? or 2 1-inch holes?  I don't recall the harness hole
> being
> all that round, maybe 1/2 inch diameter (on Scarlet).

They are a pretty good size, more than an inch for sure. I think 2" is
probably correct.

Say, if anyone has a set of '68 A-body 2-door hardtop power windows for
sale, I'll give you a few bucks for them. Must not be worth much, guess
they weren't very good, since they only made that kind the one year
only... ;-)

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 14:56:23 -0500 (EST)
From: zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu
Subject: Re: Paging J Bauman (sp??) re: S & M

> I wish people talk about something more Oldsmobile related whether its cars,
> collectibles, clubs or Racing,  especially Racing,  Drag racing that is. I
> think it is important for the new people to understand why this list was
> created by Greg.

Yeah me too... but I don't think Greg created it specifically for drag
racing reports ;-)

> I make a comment on racing experience and get three replies
> and then somebody puts a Paging somebody and has a whole slew of comments.  I
> this list made up of bench racers or bench enthusiasts or do people actually
> drive and stomp on their cars????  Just my 1.95$ question.  I don't mind

A little of both... like to call myself part of the second half of that...
but as the best I've got right now is a 260... I'm probably relegated to
the first half... working on it though... please note that in my
experience you CAN enjoy an Oldsmobile without flogging it at the track...
(although that's great fun too)

BTW Mark... you've got an AWESOME car... and I've seen pics. of it at the
track... and I've seen some times you've quoted I think... not all of us
can afford to make a real drag car especially when many of us must drive
our cars to our respective jobs and classess etc.

> deleting, but the stupid stuff needs to stop.  If you need some guidance, I
> can provide Oldsmobile digests from day 1 to present.  It all started back in
> 96 and it needs to upgrade itself.

You might want to note that of all the people who replied to the paging
message (I missed some of them and deleted them) I count myself, Andrew
Green, and Karl Aune... all of whom have been on the list since '96...
btw, don't need your digests I have them all ;-)

I don't know that the list needs to "upgrade" itself... I don't notice
THAT much of a difference between before and now... but people do need to
be more careful to change the subject line when the topic changes.
The biggest change I see between now and the early days of the list is
that now most people actually read the FAQ before asking questions... so
we don't have to reiterate what is already in the FAQ when answering them.
Some days I admit that the signal to noise ratio is a little off here
lately... but most of the time people just post a joke or two when things
get slow.


> W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
> 72 442 W-30 Race Rocket
> visit http://members.aol.com to see actual cars and Oldsmobile links

Not flamin' ya' Mark... just giving my opinion... and you know what
opinions are like...



    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
|  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
|  |  |
|  |  |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
| / \ |
|/   \|     1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
  \   /         (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
   \ /          http://www.442.com/pierce.html
    |        1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass Brougham
(parts car) (307, 4bbl, TH350, 2.14:1, 90k miles)
     1980 Rover 3500 SD1
        (215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/othercars.html
          1979 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
(260 V8, 2bbl, TH350)
http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/79cutlass.html
     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"
http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/bonneville.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 14:34:47 -0600
From: Shang <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: Power window conversion

Jim & Joanne Chermack wrote:
>
> Stephen
>
>         Yes there is a difference in the regulators. They have to come out of
a
> car with power windows. I have done two of these conversions. You must also
get
> the entire wiring harness and the relay for it. You will also have to remove
> the doors and put the 2 inch holes in the cowl and door to get the wire boot
> ini.
>
> Jim Chermack

Is the regulator the geared (toothed) part? Is there any
interchangeability in later models - like 80's?

I am planning on doing the holes for the harness when I do the body. (At
which time I am planning on removing the doors to replace the hinges.) I
believe the harness is available.

Are the grommets for the harness available?


Thanks for the info

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 15:41:42 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: buying car

the guy says it's a daily driver.  there is a picture of it at this location.

http://www.geocities.com/rainforest/canopy/4535/442.html

mikeytvb@aol.com

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Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 14:48:56 -0500
From: "Ron or JoAnn Hengerer" <Rhengerer@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Lights

- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew C. Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 10:22 AM
Subject: Re: Lights


>> I recently bought a 74 Cutless S.  The car is in great shape (14,000
>> original miles) and it hasn't taken me long to see why Old's has such
>> a following.
>
>Is this that white one that someone (okay, you I guess) nabbed at an
>estate sale or something like that? Pictures of it were on a web page?
>
>> The only two interior lights I have are the lights in the headliner
>> just behind the front seats.  I have looked under the dash but
>> did not see any empty sockets or burned out bulbs. Did the Cutlass
>> come with lights in the front seat area and if they did where would
>> they be located.
>
>They were kind of chintzy with the lights for a long time. You have
>not overlooked any. But you can _add_ some underdash/floor lights if
>you feel like doing a little crawling around under the dash. I'm
>pretty sure they were an option and that you'd find the light
>assemblies on similar Cutlasses; you can probably search '73-'77
>models for the same parts and maybe even newer ones. They're usually
>ray plastic housings that clip into slots punched in the lower edge of
>the dash. They wire into the switched-ground interior light circuit:
>the +12V wires are orange with a white tracer, and the switched ground
>is white. If you poke around behind the dash you'll probably find
>these wires paired up together. You may find a plug-in connector where
>the optional floor lights plugged in to the rest of the wiring harness
>in the vicinity of the glove box; try removing it and see what
>connectors you find back there.
>
>Actually it might make more sense to study the car you get the lights
>out of so you know what you're looking for on your own car. Duh.  :-)
>IOW, don't just cut the light wiring out of the junk donor, but trace
>the wires back into the dash and you should get to an in-line plug
>or two that you simply pop apart. The female half is usually on the
>main wiring harness and probably exists, unused, on your own car.
>
>Elsewhere I think there should be a map light just above the stereo
>which might (I forget) be supposed to come on with the interior
>lights. Buicks have lights set into the lower edge of the rear view
>mirror that might be a nice addition if you feel like running a supply
>wire, and with more surgery you could also add a dome light of your
>own from another car, although you'd probably have some work to do
>adding the wiring harness inside the headliner since I doubt it would
>be there in your car already.
>
>-- Andy

Thanks for your reply,
A truck driver stopped by our plant ( Saturn Corp.) in tennessee and was
talking about the car.  I was looking for a 96 Impala SS but I rode over to
Mufersboro just for the ride.  The minute I saw it I told my wife "neat
Car". There is an oil change sticker under the hood that has 10,000 miles
and dated 1982.  So since 1982 the car was driven 4400 miles.  The last time
the lady that owned it put plates on it was 1992 and it really was owned by
a LITTLE old lady.  I love being on this list and thanks so much for your
help.

    Ron

>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 15:50:35 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: i'M GOING NORTH

All right list am going north from NC to CT to drop off some parts for a list
member and have some other stuff that I can bring along. MUST BE QUICK I AM
LEAVING SATURDAY!!!!!! can get some things from the yards and have put out
list before.  off the top of my head here is some stuff, all G-body stuff,
68-72 4core radiator, 70 442 hood, doors, trunk lid, 69 C/S stuff, 71 C/S
fender. E-mail me and I'll see what I can come up with, Have a 70 442HC for
sale 900 OBOneed to move the stuff and will save the list some $ in shipping.
If I can help you out le me know, Thanks Chris

CHRIS SOMMERVILLE
69 442SC
70 442HC (FOR SALE)
70 W31
AND A FEW PARTS FOR SALE!!!!!!
(910)487-1540HOME
(910)396-5420WORK

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 15:50:57 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: Power window conversion

i have the set of 4 motors, but no harness.  does anyone know if i can make a
harness?  i know alot about wiring harnesses, but never learned about power
windows.

mikeytvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 15:55:45 EST
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Nova Scotia  test.......dont read

zzzz

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 13:09:35 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: buying car

> the guy says it's a daily driver.  there is a picture of it at this
location.
>
> http://www.geocities.com/rainforest/canopy/4535/442.html
- -------------------------------------------------------

Does anyone else get a page full of jumble when they try to access
that site?
==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 16:13:57 -0500
From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: Re: New Purchase

Guys,

Thanks for the good word on the altenator.  My immediate needs are new
windows moldings and striping as it will get real wet here soon.  Any one
place better than another for this sort of thing.  I remember when I
replaced the seals in my C*addy, there were about 1,000,000 places selling
them, but none were worth the $$ they wanted.  Again, thanks for the help!

Dan Gerow

- --
- ---------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
dgerow@student.stonehill.edu
WSHL General Manager
http://www.stonehill.edu/wshl
http://www.stonehill.edu/~dgerow
- ---------------------------------

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1587
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