Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1547


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, October 12 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1547



Re: Impact wrenches
UNBOUNCE: 455 in '79 Cutlass
Air Compressors
Re: New Thermo
88 or 98?
Re: One mans conquest with an Oldsmobile.
Re: I bought it !!!!   86 442
wtb
69 H/O paint.  DONE!  NO MORE! (sorta long)
Re: Impact wrenches
G-body spindles
Re: PS Pump Bolt- H@lp
Re: Wanted: 86 442 Rim
Re: Impact wrenches
Swaybars
Re: Impact wrenches
Ok, just one more on the 69 H/O paint...
Re: 69 H/O paint.  DONE!  NO MORE! (sorta long)
Re: Impact wrenches
Re: G-body spindles
Re: Car Craft - No 14" Rims??
Re: 69 H/O paint. 
14' wheels
Re: Gainsville track
Another weekend gone
Re: Car Craft - No 14" Rims??
Re: New Thermo
Re: I bought it !!!!   86 442
Re: Gainsville track
Re: Car Craft - No 14" Rims??
Re: Gainsville track
Re: Car Craft - No 14" Rims??
Re: Impact wrenches
Re:Air tools
Transporting Car(s)
Washer Patterns
Re: Delta 88 saves Pierce Brosnan!
Re:  86 442...slight damage
Re: Washer Patterns
B. O. P. meet at orlando
Re: Ok, just one more on the 69 H/O paint...
Re: TH700-R4 in 72 WAS:10-bolt rears (rpm vs mph)
Re: Hot wire
Re: Air Compressors
Re: 69 H/O paint.  DONE!  NO MORE! (sorta long)
RE: Pulling Windshield - Thanks for responding
TH 200-C METRIC 
Re: Car Craft - No 14" Rims??
POR-15 removal from the skin
ADMIN: PLEASE READ re. Reducing Traffic
Re: Impact wrenches
Re: ADMIN: PLEASE READ re. Reducing Traffic
ADMIN: Olds G-body List?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 20:12:26 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Impact wrenches

Missed most of this thread so far, but I'll add a tidbit or two to consider
anyway.  First, when was the last time the compressor was drained?  I've seen
larger ones accumulate more than a gallon of water at the bottom of the tank. 
This might, if left unattended, create a problem with airflow.  

Also, another consideration is oiling.  Air tools require frequent lubricant,
especially if they see alot of use and/or moisture.  Shoot a bit of air tool 
oil
in it, and see if that helps?

Just a thought, incase they weren't mentioned before.  Good luck.


Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 23:24:34 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 455 in '79 Cutlass

Not on the list, respond to AWILLBE@aol.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	AWILLBE@aol.com
Subject: Olds 455

I have a 79' Cutlass with 455 from earlier Olds and would like information on
decoding and locating motor mounts, etc.

Thanks
Dan

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 19:28:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: Air Compressors

You wrote:
Get a new air compressor! Air tools are great. They are much faster
and easier than handtools. Get a craftsman compressor. They are the
best.

*********************
HUH? The Craftsman compressors are made with an ALUMINUM compressor
cylinder, just like a VEGA engine block! Get a Campbell-Hausfield with
an IRON one. Plus the C-H compressors are not that expensive. Wish I'd
known before I bought the Craftsman one...


==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our cars, trucks and a whole lot more at
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 22:24:48 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: New Thermo

1)  I bought a Stant thermostat (I had the intention of doing it this
past weekend, never got
> around to it).  Will this be "high-flow" enough or should I go with a Mr. 
Gasket or Robertshaw (?)
> t'stat?  Does anyone run a Stant 180 and what does their car normally run?

I'd LIKE to run a Robertshaw hi flow, unfortunately, when I replaced the
radiator in the gray 85 a couple weeks ago, all I could find was the
stant regular goober-stat.  I'm running a 195.  Stove tested to ensure
it worked.  Cracked opened at 194, full open at around 210.  I replaced
the 160 (!) that I found in there.  The car's temps ran erratically from
about 180-230+ here in the FL heat.  That's why I thought the system
needed a good flushing too.  Did all that, plus a new HD fan clutch
while I was in there, and now the needle gets to around 215 or so and
stays there regardless.  No problemos.

However, you will HAVE to drain some of the coolant out to just change
the t-stat.  Like it or not.  Either you do first, or when you pull that
hose off it will anyway.  Two bolts and two hose connections.  If you
have cruise, you will have to remove the intake bracketry which is one
bolt and a stud nut on the driver's side t-stat housing.  Also, there's
a 15mm bolt that holds the cruise bracket to the alterenator main
bracket.  All of this is real easy to get to.  Just that you GOT to
drain a little coolant out first.

Good luck.
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 22:26:41 -0400
From: Ann Therese Niedzielski <pottsniedzielski@voyager.net>
Subject: 88 or 98?

Greetings.

	I have two photos of my father's 1959 4 door, two tone sedan
Oldsmobile.  We are trying to determine whether it is a 88 or a 98.  
	Can someone give me some clues to look for.
	I have a full frontal shot and a passenger side view.
	Any information will be appreciated.  Thanks in advance.
	Sincerely,
	Ann N.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 22:28:29 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: One mans conquest with an Oldsmobile.

Dave Cullen wrote:
> 
> >Like I said before:
> >
> >Totally Sober (only get torn for the HARD repairs, and concentration
> >normally takes over on the clean up side)
> >
> >No Cigs (A Pack a day smoker has a bad habit of making sure that a cig
> >is used at least once in a 4 hour time period not involving sleep)
> 
> I hear ya. It takes a lot of beer and tobacco to fix a car.

I can't win for losing this week..

Stuck a fuel pump in the piece of junk (really pissed at this particular
Olds, not all Olds in general) on Friday, drive it home from work today,
and the Carb goes south...

Sure as hell ain't acting like it's only got 150000 on the clock...

Gave me a change to learn how to rebuild an 84 Hurst Carb and slap it on
my 87....

Beers: 2
Cigs : 0 - Gas Fumes...  I can't wait til I stop fixing fuel problems!
Time : Total rebuild, and installation 1 Hour, 30 minutes...

No Directions for the rebuild, just a kit, and tore the old carb apart,
and put the new one together at the same time.....

- -- 
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 22:34:45 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: I bought it !!!!   86 442

>  Blue ext/grey bottom, blue int.  Hit in rear qtr, not
> bad tho. 

Good luck on the purchase.  However, something ALL of you prospective
G-bodied 442 buyers MUST consider when buying one of these birds....

Can you live with the repro stripes?  If the stripes must be replaced on
that quarter, then you are in for a hunt.  Stencils and stripes
reportedley have new gold on clear stripes, which means a different
painting process between the two-tone must be utilized.  Anyone buy
those stripes yet?  And if so, what's the quality/color compared to
originals?  Just wondering.

Sounds like a great car with fantastic potential, however.  


Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 19:37:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: jalkara <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: wtb

wtb  cutlass cruiser wagoon.  rwd diesel, do they exist?   in the nw, id,
wa, or

tia

47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 23:08:41 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: 69 H/O paint.  DONE!  NO MORE! (sorta long)

Alright.  Here we go once again.  It seems as though this monkey is
NEVER gonna get off my back.  So, here's the deal...

Kurt Karch (69 H/O advisor for the H/O club) and myself were commenting
about how GREEN the new Fire Frost looked.  However, it was real close
to original paint patches on what's left on my car.  In direct sun, it
looked correct, but still had what seemed to be a FEELING of too much
green out of the direct light.  However, comparing it with weathered
paint, we didn't know WHAT it actually should be.  We thought if it had
like 1/2 the green in it, it would probably be closer yet.  

I had a modified batch mixed, and test sprayed a small panel.  When
compared to my hood and door sill patches, I felt it was even closer
than the original new batch, but still wasn't sure.  I FELT it matched
my hood stripe portion almost to a tee, but without knowing a standard,
I wasn't sure how degraded my hood stripe section was.  

I told the list earlier I was gonna drop this bombshell when I found out
more.  Here it is...

An auto painter by trade has an ORIGINAL NOS 69 hood scoop in a box he
got that was a left over from the Demmer shop. (he owns a 69 H/O as
well) The gold patch was painted on it already, and it's ready for
installation. (no black pinstripe or decals though)  It sat inside this
box for almost 30 years now, with the paint remaining PERFECTLY
PRESERVED!  WHAT A FIND!  No other Fire Frost on ANY car that's known is
in this good shape.  We shall call THIS scoop "the standard". 

He said he saw Kurt's car at the Nats, and although he couldn't do a
side by side comparison with the standard, he thought it was pretty
close.  This weekend he mixed up some paint tweaking the new
formulation....

He e-mailed me tonight explaining that he made a few different
formulations.  The one that matched EXACTLY was the formulation that
Kurt and I had discussed previously, although unbeknownst to him.  It
had 1/2 the green elements in it.  He said, and I quote, "I did look at
the paint and the 1/2 green formula is exact."    

It's been a year of doing this research, and felt that Demmer and DuPont
did a helluva job in their efforts.  Although they had a gallon of
liquid paint that was old as the hills, chemical breakdown could have
caused a color hue change slightly.  I've noticed that even the
"weathered" cars sometimes takes on more of a green tint, so there may
be something to that.  But with dried paint that's been preserved, it
doesn't tend to do that.

So I'm going to state for the record, that the paint match for the Fire
Frost stripes is officially found.  Using a modified formulation of the
Demmer/DuPont stuff, many, many, 69 owners can be assured of a great
paint job.  And that's the end of that.  WHEW!  I will post the new
formulation on my web page within a couple of days.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 20:14:22 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Impact wrenches

At 08:52 PM 10/11/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Good question on how much air the compressor's moving, how does one go about
>checking this.
>
>John
>
>
Most will list a CFM rating at 40 and 90 PSI.
this is ussually on a decal or plauqe somewhere on the compressor.
5 CFM@90 PSI is enough for most impactt wrenches. If you absolutly 
can't find a rating, a 4-5 HP compressor will do a good job.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 11:16:05 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: G-body spindles

So like, why would Belltech PN2100, two inch lowering spindles, only fit
80-84 Cutli?  Yet, it fits up to 87 Regal, Monte, and GP?  eh?

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass       
                        Bucks County, PA

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 00:01:25 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: PS Pump Bolt- H@lp

I think it requires a pulley-puller.  I had to take a pulley off my 78
350, so I just took it to a garage I'm friendly with.  The guy just
pulled it off for me, and I was on my way.

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass       
                        Bucks County, PA

On Sun, 11 Oct 1998 00:09:56 -0400 "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com> writes:
>So, how does one get the pulley bolt off of PS pump in a '71 Cutlass 
>350?
>It appears that some sadistic GM technican staked the bolt onto the 
>shaft
>somehow- nut appears to be "flattened" on 2 opposite sides, up near 
>the
>threads.  Tried everything in my bag of tricks, and succeeded in 
>bending the
>pulley; spent an hour tweaking it back into some semblance of 
>straightness.
>
>Hate to throw in the towel at this point- anyone have suggestions??
>Bob, Covington, VA
>robertan@cfw.com
>
>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 10 Oct 1998 23:57:45 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Wanted: 86 442 Rim

I have a set of one piece all chrome 442 14" wheels.  They are my Dad's,
but I can ask him if he wants to sell them.  It would have to be the
whole set though, probably...

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass       
                        Bucks County, PA

On Sat, 10 Oct 1998 18:50:13 -0500 "Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
writes:
>I received a request from Shirley Morris for help locating a rim for 
>her
>son's 86 442.
>Please respond to stttmorris@webtv.net if you can help. Thanks
>
>Original Message:
>
>  My son has an 86 442 and one of the wheels is rusted on the inside.
>The tire keeps loosing air pressure.  Do you know of anyone that has 
>one
>of these wheels for sale?
>
>Shirley
>
>
>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 21:18:18 -0600 (MDT)
From: Steve Utick <sutick@mt.net>
Subject: Re: Impact wrenches

On Sun, 11 Oct 1998, John Kreitzer wrote:

> Hey,
> 
> Speaking of impact guns, the one's I have, understandably not the most
> expensive on the market, but not super cheap, don't seem to have the "punch"
> that they used to. I have a hard time breaking the lug nuts loose, much less
> doing any serious wrenching. My compressor keeps the pressure up around 90 -
> 110 lbs. so I don't think thats the problem, but was just wondering if any
> of you had an idea as to what could be causing the problem.
> Oh yeah, Olds content, I use these guns to get the tires on and off my 72
> Hurst. Back from the body shop yesterday and looking SHARP!!!!!

One of the things that my old High School auto teacher always used, and
I've used it ever since, is Marvel Mystery Oil to lube up my air tools.
Just squirt some in, let it sit for a few seconds then free run the air
tool for a minute to let it circulate through.  Kind of makes a mess, but
cleans everything out and restores power.

- -------------------------
Steve Utick
From the Heart of MONTANA
sutick@mt.net
http://www.mt.net/~sutick
_________________________

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 20:22:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: Swaybars

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:

Adding a larger front bar without also upgrading the rear bar will
make the car _understeer_ even more than it does now.  The front and
rear bars must be      upgraded as a set to get optimum handling from
the car.  Unfortunately, there are no larger factory rear bars that
I'm aware of (the Trans Am rear bar is different), and aftermarket is
your only option.  Unfortunately,
they are big bucks.

*****
Well Joe, given a choice, I still like the 1.25" T/A bar on the front
along with the stock rear bar on a 68-72 A body. It does understeer
more with the big front bar, but overall it handled better than with
the stock front/rear bars. Of course on the G-bodies the bars get
changed as a set: There's a big front bar to go along with the rear bar.





 
==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our cars, trucks and a whole lot more at
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 23:24:55 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Impact wrenches

Impact wrenches do not have rings as such. However they do have vanes
which can wear and allow blow-by. If the air tool oil doesn't bring it
back to its original punch you might want to consider purchasing a
re-build kit. These should be available from the manufacturer or check
with your local tool rental shop.

just my 2 cents

Mark Hahn
75 Delta 88 Royale Convertible
Cincinnati, Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 23:31:32 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Ok, just one more on the 69 H/O paint...

I got ANOTHER e-mail since I sent my last message about the paint.  Here
it is in it's entirety...(the old message he's referring to is the same
old subject heading)  Remember, if you get this formulation mixed, the
cost code is "F", otherwise you'll be charged a lot more for it.

> 
>  I should probably stop replying to this old message. Here's the low
> down on the paint. The hardest part about matching this to my scoop is
> the fact that Demmer  put on so little paint that in real bright
> sunlight you can almost see through  the gold. They must have been in
> such a hurry that they only put on like two coats or so on these cars.
> The half green formula is about as close as humanly possible. The flop
> on the orig. formula is way too green. The flop on 1/2 green is just
> about exact. Also, the orig. paint is Lacquar. The clear coat paint is
> just so much more brilliant, and really shows off the mettalics. I work
> as a painter in a high line body shop ( Mercedes+ Porsche ) so when I
> say it is as close as humanly possible I know what I'm talking about. As
> to the no green formula, it is way to gold. The green, even only 2.4
> grams, makes a huge difference. This paint matches my hood and scoop.
> I'm sure there was different batches of paint mixed up, so there could
> be a very,very slight difference in some cars. Also,Lacquar is very
> spray sensitive, it changes color with spray pressure and somewhat,air
> and reducer temperture.I sprayed the base at regular 25 psi. HVLP spray
> pressure.The newer base coats really do not change color with pressure.
> I tried taking pictures of the paint but you couldn"t see the difference
> through the camara. The sun was too bright and it must be reflecting
> back at the camara. On a less sunny day it may work better.  If you
> want, I will send you a set of all three spray outs, and you can compare
> it to your car.I made a couple sets. Below is the half green formula I
> mixed up
> 
>  ChromaPremier Base Coat.
> 
> 4530s  45.4
> 890j     86.0
> 894j     109.3
> 845j      131.0
> 895j     149.9
> 802j     161.1
> 832j     162.0
> 1005s  180.7
> 1008s  181.0
> 62320f  326.3
> 62330f  457.5

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 21:37:12 -0600
From: "Fred Orcutt" <f_m_o@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: 69 H/O paint.  DONE!  NO MORE! (sorta long)

Super work, Mike! Congratulations on a helluva job!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Rothe. <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: 69 H/O paint. DONE! NO MORE! (sorta long)

>
>It's been a year of doing this research, and felt that Demmer and DuPont
>did a helluva job in their efforts.  Although they had a gallon of
>liquid paint that was old as the hills, chemical breakdown could have
>caused a color hue change slightly.  I've noticed that even the
>"weathered" cars sometimes takes on more of a green tint, so there may
>be something to that.  But with dried paint that's been preserved, it
>doesn't tend to do that.
>
>So I'm going to state for the record, that the paint match for the Fire
>Frost stripes is officially found.  Using a modified formulation of the
>Demmer/DuPont stuff, many, many, 69 owners can be assured of a great
>paint job.  And that's the end of that.  WHEW!  I will post the new
>formulation on my web page within a couple of days.
>
>Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 22:38:44 -0500
From: "John Kreitzer" <john.kreitzer@gte.net>
Subject: Re: Impact wrenches

Thanks all for the Info. on the impact wrenches. I will be sure to try all
the different remedies that pertain to my situation.

Again, Thanks All
John
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, October 11, 1998 10:31 PM
Subject: Re: Impact wrenches


>Impact wrenches do not have rings as such. However they do have vanes
>which can wear and allow blow-by. If the air tool oil doesn't bring it
>back to its original punch you might want to consider purchasing a
>re-build kit. These should be available from the manufacturer or check
>with your local tool rental shop.
>
>just my 2 cents
>
>Mark Hahn
>75 Delta 88 Royale Convertible
>Cincinnati, Ohio
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 21:42:38 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: G-body spindles

Sounds like a typo or an incomplete listing, I'd assume.  Since 78 to 88 were
~essentially~ the same, with minor differences in SAE to Metric, etc.  78-81 
or2
were all SAE, as I recall, for frontend stuff.  Those should be the same.  I 
can
only assume they'd work, though.  I know they changed wheel bearings from year
to year, etc, but that shouldn't be a compatibility problem.

To be certain, though, call and ask them specifically, before orderring.  I'd
feel safe to ~assume~ they'd work, but theres always that "ASSUME" scenario,
something about making an ass out of u and me...

> So like, why would Belltech PN2100, two inch lowering spindles, only fit
> 80-84 Cutli?  Yet, it fits up to 87 Regal, Monte, and GP?  eh?
- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 23:48:11 EDT
From: StafRT007@aol.com
Subject: Re: Car Craft - No 14" Rims??

You are the first person I have ever heard say that they liked 14" rims, but
then again I bought you're cutting a et lower than 18 sec.  There's a reason
nobody runs skinny ass tires.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 23:51:23 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: 69 H/O paint. 

> 
> Super work, Mike! Congratulations on a helluva job!
> 
Wasn't ME, Fred!  I just was the choreographer. Worked behind the
scenes.  Sometimes I wonder though if I hadn't kept pinging Demmer about
it, it may not have happened.  I need to get a life I suppose.  There
was a few nights I lay awake THINKING of the paint and possible
variations on how to improve on it.  I worry myself sometimes...  :)

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 11:36:18 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: 14' wheels

just an opinion though!

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass       
                        Bucks County, PA

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 11:28:05 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Gainsville track

Hey Monkey,
How often do you go to Enlgishtown?  I haven't been there in a while, but
I'm going to go some time, next season, probably, ad race the 87...

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass       
                        Bucks County, PA

On Sun, 11 Oct 1998 12:39:10 EDT Monkey2351@aol.com writes:
>I race a souped up 442 at The Englishtown Raceway Park!
>
>What do you race?
>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 11:57:45 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Another weekend gone

Well, this weekend was rather pointless.  All I really got accomplished
Olds-wise was an oil change and a passenger seat removal (pointless, as
I've decided against using the bucket seats I bought!)
Good Talledega race though, Daytona next wekend.  excellent!  Yeah, and I
also finished the trunk part of stereo installation. Now if only my head
unit would return from the repair shop in NY!  I hope y'all had a better
weekend, or rain free at least!

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass       
                        Bucks County, PA




___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 11:35:47 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Car Craft - No 14" Rims??

O
>I guess, into the wheelwells of G-bodies.  At the top of the list: 
>"14-inch: Forget it, only your 
>grandpa's car runs 14s."  What's with that?  IMHO, the 14" chrome 
>SSIII wheels are much cooler than 
>any of those 16" or 17" ROH

No, they're right.  I've switched between 14" SSIII's and my 15"
Centerlines, and can't help but think that 14's are toooo small.  15
ain't great either.  And, nothing will beat those ROH wheels!  (Well,
except for an Impala in the middle of them, and an Impala SS sitting over
the wheels!)


, Momo, or whatever wheels they use now.  
>What kind of justice do you do 
>to the car by putting on these super-modern rims on an almost-classic 
>car?  Just because you can't 
>run the quarter in 10 seconds with 14" wheels, doesn't mean you can't 
>look good with 14s.

Sure, you can *look* god, but looks aren't everything...


>
>BTW, I think someone on the list (Oldsmagnet, maybe?) had a page up 
>with the different variations 
>of wheels.  I have a super crystal clear (I don't know how I did it 
>with a cheap scanner) picture 
>of an example of these SSIII's on my homepage: 
>http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock/cutlass/chromess3.jpg
>
So, then. do you want to buy mine?  All chrome, one piece, no paint, real
nice!

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass       
                        Bucks County, PA



>Thanks for the soapbox space...
>
>Jason Adcock
>Blacksburg, VA
>ICQ: 5860857
>E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
>Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org
>
>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 11:49:07 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: New Thermo

Jason
Replacing the thermostat in a parking lot should pose no problem.

Disconnect upper radiator hose at thermo housing and fold out of way.
Loosen hose connector on hose that connects gooseneck of thermo housing
to water pump outlet.
Remove thermo housing with half inch socket, two bolts.
DO NOT leave the housing connecting to that short hose between it and the
water pump (poor design, Oldsmobile!).  Completely remove housing!
Clean off all old gasket from intake surface and housing surface.
When installing new gasket, do so on the intake, not the housing.  This
way, you can use little or no gasket glue.  You don't really want a lot
of excess glue to be circulating through your cooling system and
potentially clogging something.
Also, make sure you plug the housing back into that small hose before
putting it back in place.  It's not cool to force it back on after you've
got the housing bolted down.  
You shouldn't lose much or any fluid of you do it cool.  And, yeah, two
hundred degrees is too hot.  180 is perfect, as far as my opinions go. 
Have fun!

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass       
                        Bucks County, PA

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 11:39:50 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: I bought it !!!!   86 442

On Sun, 11 Oct 1998 20:23:10 EDT RCKTPWR@aol.com writes:
Hey Bernie,
Cool car!  How'd you make out with those doors and fenders?

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass       
                        Bucks County, PA

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 11:18:53 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Gainsville track

Whoah, good run!  This is quarter mile time!

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass       
                        Bucks County, PA

On Sun, 11 Oct 1998 11:36:04 -0400 "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
writes:
>Ran to second place broke out. Dialed a 11.62 ran a 11.61 lost to a 14
>sec chity
>      butch 68 442  post
>
>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 00:04:02 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Car Craft - No 14" Rims??

StafRT007@aol.com wrote:
> 
> You are the first person I have ever heard say that they liked 14" rims

If you're racing, then that's another story.  But 14" rims look ok.

It's not the size that matters...there have been some real screamers
built in the 60s and 70s with 14" rims.  I mean, far be it from me, but
I think the 70 W-30 and the 68 H/O were some bad-a** machines.  Amd they
had 14" rims...ironically, the 69 H/O had 15" wheels and F-60-15
Polyglas GTs.  And the magazine articles ALL were impressed with the
tire's performance and handling improvements.  Why they didn't stick
with that route...granted, with bigger tires/rims, they would handle a
lot better.  So now, after all these years, they finally got the idea
that a performance car SHOULD have fat tires with a low profile.  I
remember my very first car I drove had 4" wheels on it.  It was a soap
box car.  Didn't handle worth a crap.  Rode like a Mustang.  But, I
guess when you're 6, you don't care about handling and ride.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 00:10:00 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Gainsville track

> 
> Whoah, good run!  This is quarter mile time!
> 

> >Ran to second place broke out. Dialed a 11.62 ran a 11.61 lost to a 14
> >sec chity

Yeah, Ray, I bet we all wish we could have Butch's problem.  I guess it
must REALLY SUCK to run FASTER than an 11.62...but I'm not jealous...ok,
so maybe I am a little...  :)

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 22:16:21 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Car Craft - No 14" Rims??

> You are the first person I have ever heard say that they liked 14" rims, but
> then again I bought you're cutting a et lower than 18 sec.  There's a reason
> nobody runs skinny ass tires.

Well, I'll be the second.  I run 14's on the Rockit (or did, at least...) Love
'em.  Granted, they're not skinny ass tires, but they're 14's and the fit under
the 1/4 quite well, even with the wider offset.  AND, you can ~BET~ (which is
the present tense form of bought, honest!) that I was running ~well~ under
18's.  Closer to 14 in Havre, which I believe is around 3000ft elev, I think. 
We stopwatched the Rockit at 14.1 there.  Best we could do.  That's on
245-60R14s, on stock SSIIIs.  FWIW, it launches quite well on 205-70R14's, 
too. 
There's a ~lot~ more to launching than just tires.  Although you are correct,
there ~is~ a reson nobody runs skinny ass tires, performance.  But there are
many stages of skinniness, and they're not all synonomous with 14" rims.




- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 21:37:11 +0000
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Impact wrenches

Think you meant marvel airtool oil not the top cyl lube for cars......right?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Steve Utick <sutick@mt.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, October 12, 1998 3:20 AM
Subject: Re: Impact wrenches


>On Sun, 11 Oct 1998, John Kreitzer wrote:
>
>> Hey,
>>
>> Speaking of impact guns, the one's I have, understandably not the most
>> expensive on the market, but not super cheap, don't seem to have the
"punch"
>> that they used to. I have a hard time breaking the lug nuts loose, much
less
>> doing any serious wrenching. My compressor keeps the pressure up around
90 -
>> 110 lbs. so I don't think thats the problem, but was just wondering if
any
>> of you had an idea as to what could be causing the problem.
>> Oh yeah, Olds content, I use these guns to get the tires on and off my 72
>> Hurst. Back from the body shop yesterday and looking SHARP!!!!!
>
>One of the things that my old High School auto teacher always used, and
>I've used it ever since, is Marvel Mystery Oil to lube up my air tools.
>Just squirt some in, let it sit for a few seconds then free run the air
>tool for a minute to let it circulate through.  Kind of makes a mess, but
>cleans everything out and restores power.
>
>-------------------------
>Steve Utick
>From the Heart of MONTANA
>sutick@mt.net
>http://www.mt.net/~sutick
>_________________________
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 00:58:16 -0400
From: Kyle Roe <karoe@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re:Air tools

New compressor indeed. Go to Walmart for your airtools, hose and such.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 01:37:51 -0400
From: Kyle Roe <karoe@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Transporting Car(s)

I know I saw a thread months ago about transporting cars. Will any of you with
good and/or bad experiences please e-mail me. I need to get a car from
Colorado  to  Florida.

Thanks,
Kyle
KAROE@US.IBM.COM

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 23:16:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Washer Patterns

I finally got around to fixing the washer pump in my '69 Cutlass
convertible (it hasn't worked since I bought it) and found that the nozzles
seem to squirt a concentrated stream of water unlike the fan pattern I have
seen in most (newer) cars.

Is this normal or do I have a problem with the nozzles?


Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1998 22:21:31 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Delta 88 saves Pierce Brosnan!

Oh, yeah, I remember that one.  Just wonder one thing, how do they run with
the water at that level.  A little bit of water up the air-cleaner, it dies.
This movie is not as bad as golden eye (I think) where he jumps after the
plane, and gets into it and saves it.  OKAY.  Igor.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency 98 (307/2004r/propane)
1981 Dodge Van (360/727/4.10s)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 02:57:38 EDT
From: JJP442@aol.com
Subject: Re:  86 442...slight damage

Gerik,
My suggestion is to seek out a used nose from the bone yard. Had to do that
for my 87 442 last year. The only problem was having to strip the chrome off
the bumper
professionally so it could be painted. All the other stuff is paintable.
Hope this helps
John-Queens N.Y.
JJP442@aol.com
1983 H/O
1987 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 05:26:45 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Washer Patterns

Lloyd, it's what they do.  The "squirt" is normal.  Looks funky compared
to nowadays, but that's ok.  Just gotta make sure they don't shoot OVER
the car!

Mike Rothe


> I finally got around to fixing the washer pump in my '69 Cutlass
> convertible (it hasn't worked since I bought it) and found that the nozzles
> seem to squirt a concentrated stream of water unlike the fan pattern I have
> seen in most (newer) cars.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 07:09:23 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: B. O. P. meet at orlando

any of you guys going to the B O P run offs in orlando on saturday dec.
12th.?
                              Butch 68  442  post

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 03:02:55 -0700
From: Mr Ada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Ok, just one more on the 69 H/O paint...

Mike Rothe. wrote:

> >  ChromaPremier Base Coat.
> >
> > 4530s  45.4
> > 890j     86.0
> > 894j     109.3
> > 845j      131.0
> > 895j     149.9
> > 802j     161.1
> > 832j     162.0
> > 1005s  180.7
> > 1008s  181.0
> > 62320f  326.3
> > 62330f  457.5

Is there an equivalent formula for lacquer paint?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 09:04:56 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Re: TH700-R4 in 72 WAS:10-bolt rears (rpm vs mph)

>How difficult was swapping the th700-r4 into your 72?
>
>Norm
>Woodstock, GA

=========================

Before I get started.  In the spirit of reducing clutter on the list I
wasn't sure whether or not I should respond to your question privately.  I
decided the content was universal enough and that other list members might
be interested.  BUT if anyone feels that this a classic example of private
correspondence please let me know.

=========================

The swap was a relativley straightforward.  Just a bunch of picky details
to consider.

The biggest mental gymnastics was making an adaptor for the TV cable to my
4bl Q-jet.

I did all this back in '91.  So keep in mind that there may be after market
parts available for some of the things I made or adapted.

I did the swap on a 350 Olds.  I don't think anything changes for other
motors, but ask someone more knowledgeable before you start.

Here's the basics:

1)  The flexplate will boltup (its been awhile, but I'm 99% sure on this)

2)  The adapter plate came from TCI Part # TCI #2300B or #23000 (you'll
have to check with them as one number is old or outdated) their Tel # is
601-224-8972.  When I did this I had to lengthen the dowel (locater) pins
that mate the engine to the tranny as the plate is an 1/8" to 1/4" thick.
I believe I got some 1/2" stock and made them, but a machine shop could do
it to.  You'll have too see what yours look like.

* NOTE:  Dick Miller Racing Tel# 901-794-2834 and/or
http://www.mspmall.com/dmr/ has a 1/4" x 24" x 24" aluminum adapter plate
(Part #  DMR-5034 @ $159) and longer dowel (locater) pins (Part # MOR-37932
@ $9).  I don't know what your application is so the hefty plate DMR plate
may be over kill, but you'll need some sort of longer pins.   ALSO:  Dick
notes that the converter must be modified (extend the snout I believe) if
you use the 1/4" thick plate.  I don't recall doing that using the TCI
adapter plate which I believe is 1/8" thick.  See what I mean by details!!

 3)  The converter lock up is electric and the guy who built up the tranny
installed it for me.  Carl Rossler at Rossler Transmissions in Garard Ohio
Tel# 1-216-530-0066.  Carl's a great guy and really knows his stuff and has
rebuilt and modified many transmissions for Lingenfelter.

4)  If you are running a Quadrajet you'll need to make some kind of bracket
for the TV cable (as I remember Holly Part # 2045 will work but you'll have
to check).

5) Also on the Q-jet I went through some major math contortions (one of the
many reasons why kids shouldn't drop out of High School) to figure out the
correct ratio arm to put on the throttle plate to run the TV cable.  IT'S
IMPORTANT TO GET THIS PART RIGHT OTHERWISE YOU CAN FRY THE TRANNY REAL
QUICK.  There may be stuff on the market now that takes care of all that.
But if you're stumped... get a hold of a copy of Hot Rod Magazine August
'88.  Page 66 has an article called the 700 Club and it gives you
EVERYTHING that you need.  It's also reproduced other places, but if you
get desperate e-mail me your mailing address and I'll photocopy the article
for you.  (There also may be newer articles with more up-to-date info.  If
any one has a line on that please let me know.)

6)  I used a TV cable from '82-'85 Caprice Part # 25525598

7)  Dip Stick and Tube from an '82 Caprice Part #s 14056612 and #15531900

8)  You'll have to relocate the cross mount on the frame for the tranny
several inches to rear.  That just requires drilling a new set of holes and
fiddling with the E-Brake cable holders.

9)  You'll need to shorten the drive shaft and as I remember it might take
a different spline from the yoke.  Nothing that can't be solved.  Ask your
tranny guy.  I bought an used shaft and had somebody weld it.  That way
I've got the original length shaft in case for some unknown reason I go
back to a 350 turbo.

10) I used a B&M Street Stick Shifter Part # 80783 (that was in '91.  Don't
know if its changed) I think you have to also get the 4 speed adapter plate
part # 80772.  I also can't remember whether you have to get a GM cable
bracket or it comes in the box.  Ask when you buy.  When I installed the
shifter I had to make a bracket that would hold it up in the center console
(I got buckets).  I also made it so the shifter was angled and tipped so
that its line of travel was aimed directly toward my shoulder.  Very
ergonomic and therefore comfortable and quick to shift.

I think that's about it.  I haven't blazed new territory and there are
probably other ways to work around some of the details.  But this should
get you thinking.  The work is not real tricky... you just gota pay
attention to details and go slow.

I think it would be a great winter project.  Plus I think you'll really
enjoy the 700.  Stump pulling first gear and a cruising OD.  Great combo.
(Carl thinks his beef up of the tranny will handle a strong 455.  I'm going
to find next spring as I'm dropping in a hefty 425 with aluminum heads and
EFI.)

Oh... there's been plenty of talk on the list about TH-700 vs TH-200 vs
4L60 vs 4L80.  I've also had some private e-mailed about some questions.
I've saved them all (let's hear it for big hard drives).  If you want I'd
be happy to forward them all to you.

Good luck, hope this helps.

BTW all the usual disclaimers:  my $.02, IMHO, kids don't try this at home,
etc., etc....

jp

Jonathan Parke
mailto:jonparke@together.net

'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
(near the end of a 5 year frame off customization)

'60 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider Veloce
(completely in pieces, perfect body, long term restoration)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 09:24:32 EDT
From: BigEJ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hot wire

Ok, I am not going to steal this car, it is in my junkyard and it has the Hi-
Comp 425 engine that I plan to put in my 72
Cutlass.  I have never tried to peel the column or hotwire a car with an
ignition on the dash. How can I get the car
started ~without~ messing up the dash? The dash in this Delta is in A-1 mint
shape and I do not want to destroy it.  I
have no keys for the car. I would really prefer a way to remove the ignition
lock from the dash than cut the wiring
harness if possible. Thanks.

Jason Labay  Akron, OH jlabay@neo.lrun.com
http://home.neo.lrun.com/jlabay
Jason:

The easiest way to "hotwire" an early (pre-steering column lock) GM car is to
either pull the connector from the back of  the ignition switch or disconnect
the battery side of the coil first.  The reason for disconnecting either of
these places is that GM grounded the coil thru the ignition when the key was
off.  

Once this is done, simply run a jumper wire from the battery or any hot line
to the feed side of the coil (the side opposite the wire that goes to the
distributor).  Then on the starter solenoid you will find two small wire
connectors.  One sends direct voltage to the coil when starting, the other
energizes the starter.  Simply short the battery cable at the solenoid to one
of these connectors.  If the car doesn't start, go to the other one.  

Bear in mind that this method defeats the ballast resistor system, so use more
than 1000 miles may be tough on points.  

Ernie  Johnson

50 88
67 442 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 09:39:38 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Air Compressors

John,

I have one of those Craftsman (made by Devillbiss) compressors, and although
the cylinder housing is aluminum, there is a steel insert (Teflon coated, I
think) that rides in the housing, sort of like a cylinder sleeve.  At least
mine has one -- I had to open up mine once when the seal from the compressor
to the regulator/shut off switch blew.  Talk about something to scare the
daylights out of you................the guy that was painting the car with me
at the time thought the whole garage was going to explode!  But I've had very
good results with mine, it's just a tad too small to operate a sandblaster, a
25 gallon tank runs out of air too quickly.  Next one will be an upright tank
somewhere around twice the size of this one.  Another added plus is with the
Teflon-coated parts in the compressor assembly, it needs no oil in the
compressor, which means there's no way that compressor oil can get into a
paint gun.

Just a Monday penny here from 'ol broken-foot (and it sucks-no garage time
lately)

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
ks7racing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 09:48:23 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 H/O paint.  DONE!  NO MORE! (sorta long)

This is great!  I have been contemplating a revision of my racing lineup and
building a replica of a 69 H/O for drag racing (from a 69 442 or Cutlass, so I
don't cut up a pristine example of one of Oldsmobile's finest performance
cars!) and would want it to look as close as possible.  I will let everyone
know that this car IS NOT an actual H/O and document the car as a "tribute" to
the real thing.

Take Care all!

Ken "Man My Foot's Sore" Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
ks7racing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 09:01:47 +0000
From: MB0 <MB0@americancentury.com>
Subject: RE: Pulling Windshield - Thanks for responding

Thanks to all who had advice on pulling the windshield from my 69
Cutlass convertible. I appreciate the willingness of people on the list
to take the time to help fellow enthusiasts. 

I had the windshield out of the car in no time, this weekend. I had no
idea it was such a simple job. An X-Acto knife and a large screwdriver
and out she came. I think it helped that it was a convertible (could get
above it to lift it out alone) and that I already had some of the trim,
fenders and wipers removed. Now I can easily repaint the metal portion
of the dash adequately and get a new seal on the windshield. The old one
leaked quite badly.

What is the correct black to use for the area  of dash at the base of
the windshield?

Thanks to all!!
Mike Baugher

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 10:07:16 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: TH 200-C METRIC 

To List:

This is in reference to a TH 200-C Metric transmission.

Does this Trans utilize some sort of converter lockup?

Prior to changing Quinces 2.14 standard rear for a 3.08 Posi, (housing and
all as was changing bushings + springs), Quincy always had the feel of a
lockup converter. By that I mean at cruising speeds you could hear + feel
the engine drop apx. 300-400 RPM. A slight increase in gas and she would
distinctly jump RPM back up and take off. You could feel the 3 physical
gears than (I believe) the converter lockup (seeming 4th). She would cruise
in this reduced RPM all day if not encountering a need to drop fully back to
third. I.e.. hills or extra gas.

After the complete rear swap I no longer sense a converter lockup and she
always stays in third. Bear in mind I haven't changed the trains speedo gear
(calibration) yet. I suspect some sort of sensor, (speedo attached) has
become over ridden by the computer because the now higher RPM of the 3.08 Vs
the original 2.14's.

Please correct me if I'm wrong but both the TH200-4R + TH700-4R don't have a
physical 4th gear but achieve a 4th gear state via a computer converter
lockup. Did GM also use this converter situation with the TH 200-C METRIC?

When speedo Trans drive gears are recalibrated correctly will I again
achieve proper converter lockup? (if that's what it was originally doing) I
do want that 4th cruse state for interstate travel.

Quincy is equipped with 235 60 15" front and 255 60 15" rear tires/wheels.
This change was done long before the rear swap and had no effect against the
sense of a 4th lockup. Only after the rear change has the shifting changed.

Stats:
stock 307 "Y" (custom ram air)
TH 200-C METRIC
3.08 Posi rear

Unrelated. I finished the closed circuit ram air yesterday and can really
feel with my buttocks the increase in HP . Especially mid RPM in second
gear. The 3.08 were a world of difference over the 2.14's. I had a few days
with her to get use to the performance change with the 3.08's. The cooler
exterior rammed air is effecting nearly another magnitude of increase. I'm
not positive but I think the formula is like 3HP for each 10 degree drop in
intake air. I do believe I'm creating a positive volume over normal
aspiration above apx. 40 MPH so this too increases performance do to a
larger oxygen charge per combustion stroke.

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
  
'86 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS = "Quincy"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 08:35:54 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: Car Craft - No 14" Rims??

>There's a reason nobody runs skinny ass tires.
FYI... 14" rims don't necessarily mean skinny *ss tires.  Back in the good old
days (showing age again) the good cars had 14 inch rims.  Pickups and cars
from the early 50's had 15s, while heavy duty trucks had 16 inch rims or
larger.  14 inch rims were the standard in the days before the rubber band
profiles we see now.  Yes, I will admit it is getting tough to find wide tires
for the 14, but it can be done.  I have Uniroyal 235R60-14's on my 4-4-2 and I
could have went wider.  Goodyear and some of the others are no longer making
wide 14's, but they can be found.
There are a whole bunch of us on this list that love the 14 inch rims on our
Oldsmobiles and won't settle for anything else.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 09:48:27 -0500
From: Brett Chaveriat <brett@mcs.com>
Subject: POR-15 removal from the skin

Hi all,
	I just wanted to relate my experience with POR-15 on the skin.
Yes, the stuff is permanent if it dries.  Yes, I knew it before I 
used it.  Yes, I accidently got some on my skin.  Yes, I got it off!
	First, you must get it off as soon as possible.  If it is still
wet, thinner will work pretty well.  For the stuff that dried for
nearly an hour, I used a Scotchbright pad wetted with thinner.  You 
will need to abrade the heck out of your skin, but it will come off.
It sure beats wearing it for weeks.  The next day, I had no signs of 
the POR-15 nor any red marks from the rubbing I gave my arms.  Still,
the best strategy is to avoid getting it on your skin in the first 
place.  
	I thought about it later, and I wonder if a tube of Liquid
Glove (do they still make it?) would work.  This is some liquid you
rub on your skin and let dry.  You then do your dirty work.  Later,
you just wash it and the dirt easily away.  It worked for grime
just fine.  I think it was made by Permatex.

- -- 

Brett Chaveriat

mailto:brett@mcs.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 11:57:27 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: ADMIN: PLEASE READ re. Reducing Traffic

I have been thinking about the suggestion made by Andy G. (also raised a
while back by Drew Senko and others) to change the list setup to default
the reply-to action back to the original sender, rather than the list
overall. You could still reply to the list, but it would take one mre step
on your part to do it.

I have the config file set up to do this but haven't yet put it into
effect. I was originally opposed to this, but am starting to think it is
becoming necessary. I'd be interested in hearing the views of anyone with
an opinion -- privately please. :)

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 09:01:14 -0600 (MDT)
From: Steve Utick <sutick@mt.net>
Subject: Re: Impact wrenches

Nope, the regular Marvel Mystery Oil.

On Sun, 11 Oct 1998, Kerry Kroger wrote:

> Think you meant marvel airtool oil not the top cyl lube for cars......right?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Utick <sutick@mt.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Monday, October 12, 1998 3:20 AM
> Subject: Re: Impact wrenches
> 
> 
> >On Sun, 11 Oct 1998, John Kreitzer wrote:
> >
> >> Hey,
> >>
> >> Speaking of impact guns, the one's I have, understandably not the most
> >> expensive on the market, but not super cheap, don't seem to have the
> "punch"
> >> that they used to. I have a hard time breaking the lug nuts loose, much
> less
> >> doing any serious wrenching. My compressor keeps the pressure up around
> 90 -
> >> 110 lbs. so I don't think thats the problem, but was just wondering if
> any
> >> of you had an idea as to what could be causing the problem.
> >> Oh yeah, Olds content, I use these guns to get the tires on and off my 72
> >> Hurst. Back from the body shop yesterday and looking SHARP!!!!!
> >
> >One of the things that my old High School auto teacher always used, and
> >I've used it ever since, is Marvel Mystery Oil to lube up my air tools.
> >Just squirt some in, let it sit for a few seconds then free run the air
> >tool for a minute to let it circulate through.  Kind of makes a mess, but
> >cleans everything out and restores power.
> >
> >-------------------------
> >Steve Utick
> >From the Heart of MONTANA
> >sutick@mt.net
> >http://www.mt.net/~sutick
> >_________________________
> >
> 

- -------------------------
Steve Utick
From the Heart of MONTANA
sutick@mt.net
http://www.mt.net/~sutick
_________________________

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 11:16:22 -0400
From: Jim Olson <jolson@edzone.net>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: PLEASE READ re. Reducing Traffic

I'd personally like to see at least a trial run of this new setup
Greg...

I don't mind the extra work of adding the list address to a message if I
think it's important to the group...

Jim...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Oct 1998 12:19:19 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: ADMIN: Olds G-body List?

I have recently stumbled across a site on the web that may be of interest
to those who have been asking about the existence of a Cutlass G-body
list. As far as I know there isn't one out there yet, but it looks like it
would be easy to set one up if someone would be so inclined. At
http://www.listbot.com they offer a service to host a mailing list. I know
they currently have a Skylark/GS list running there (since I joined it)
and it appears to work pretty well.

Those of you who have been here for a while will recall many discussions
about splitting up the list, to which I have usually been unenthusiastic.
I am starting to think given the nature of discussions of late that it may
be time for something to change, though, and my first thought is that
maybe a separate G-body list would be the most useful way to go. As I've
said before, the original purpose of this list was to discuss older
models, say up to the late seventies or so. I confess that era is still
where my interest lies, and that is the type of list I would prefer to run
if I had a choice. 

Please, no offense intended to any of the G-body enthusiasts here. You'll
always be welcomed. But it does seem that more and more of the posts deal
with that topic, and from a very personal point of view, I'm getting less
and less out of it. Now that it appears there is an option for anyone so
inclined to set up a G-body list, maybe it's time for that to happen,
which is why I mentioned the listbot service. 

I would be interested in any other opinions on this. Thoughts? 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1547
*********************************

