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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1581


oldsmobile-digest      Sunday, November 1 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1581



Re: Differential vent question
[none]
Re:
re:Vista
Vista
Re: Good cleaner for brake dust on alloy wheels?
Re: T3 headlights answered
Re: the one(442) that got away
Re: WTB G-BODY DOORS.
Re: not really "a quick question"
MSD Ignition (was 426 SB Chevy)
Re: Vista (Was: (none))
Re: POR's Pelucid
Re: Oldsmobile Restoration Resource
Re: 2GC fast idle problem.
1976 Olds Cutlass "S"
Re: Ertl collectibles 69 442 W-30
Epilogue: EPA stance on use of two catalytic converters.
Re: Ertl collectibles 69 442 W-30
UNBOUNCE: 1976 Olds Cutlass "S"
real rocket engine convertible (fwd)
Carter vs. Quadrajet (fwd)
Re: real rocket engine convertible (fwd)
Addendum... Epilogue: EPA stance on use of two catalytic converters.
Rocker Panel Replacement
Re: not really "a quick question"
Re: MSD Ignition (was 426 SB Chevy)
Re: 426 SB Chevy
Re: UNBOUNCE: 1976 Olds Cutlass "S"
Re: real rocket engine convertible (fwd)
1953 Olds Super 88
Fw: WARNING!!!!!---Telephone Scam
Re: UNBOUNCE: 1976 Olds Cutlass "S"
Suspension Question
HEI Dist.
Re: Suspension Question
Re: HEI Dist.
Re: HEI Dist.
Re: Suspension Question
Re: Carter vs. Quadrajet (fwd)
Rear End Color ?
Re: Suspension Question
Re: HEI Dist.
Re: 426 SB Chevy
Suspension Question - Poly vs rubber
Re: Suspension Question - Poly vs rubber
Re: Suspension Question - Poly vs rubber

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 21:18:04 -0800
From: Chris & Robin Miller <cya442@san.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Differential vent question

mbloomer wrote:

> The axle vent should be on the pass side of the axle on the tube close
> to the center section.  The vent is a small piece that sticks up and has
> a captive cap on it that you can spin but not pull off.  At least that is
> what I have on my '68 Supreme that is bone stock (I just went out and
> looked).
>
> Mike B
> mbloomer@gateway.net

You are correct. Mine has a green cap on it and I bought a replacement part
from Year One and it was an identical match.

- --
Chris Miller
'68 442
San Diego, CA
mailto:cya442@san.rr.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 22:12:06 -0800
From: "Steve Elijah" <selijah@eznet.com>
Subject: [none]

I always wanted a Vista Cruiser and found one a few months back.  Its a '72
with 110k original miles which had some sort of a "rebuild" at 80k (ten
years ago).  It is really pretty clean with no significant rust and no leaks
inside.  Just normal wear and tear to the carpets and upholstery. It has a
350 cid, 2bbl, AC, disc brakes, oxidixed "poop brown" paint, and they added
an HEI (whatever that is).  I love the way it runs and for $300 a guy milled
a leaking exhaust manifold and cut the cross over pipe and dualed the
exhaust.  I plan to use it for highway driving, camping and Vista Cruisin,
basically. I have replaced all the hoses and belts and such and it has a
pretty new radiator.  The add on water temp guage seems to say it usually
runs at about 195-200 degrees. It went as high as 215 degrees in the heat of
the summer with the AC on. Is that too hot?

I replaced the shocks all around with new ones but the rear end sags still.
There is a guy that will replace the rear coil springs with what he calls
"heavy duty" replacement coils springs for about $125.  Will that cure the
rear end sag so that i dont drag bottom when i leave a driveway too fast?
Or is a better option to buy some of those air shocks for the rear end and
install them?

It also needs new door seal/weatherstripping and felt window liners
sometime.  Are those items readily available and something that a novice
could figure out how to install?

The power rear window works, but has a bit of a groan to it going up the
last 3-4 inches. I looked at the window channel and could see no
obstructions. Is there some preventative maintenance or lubrication I should
do to keep it from failing?

Last question, sorry for the length of this, where can I get a book like a
chiltons or something on this model?  I am no expert mechanic but can
usually follow the step by steps in such books pretty well with my basic set
of tools.  What book would you recommend for the most common repairs or
replacements and maintenance that I may need to make to this car over the
next 20 years that I would like to drive it? Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 00:54:22 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re:

 The add on water temp guage seems to say it usually
>runs at about 195-200 degrees. It went as high as 215 degrees in the heat
of
>the summer with the AC on. Is that too hot?
>
With good anti-freeze it should handle 225 to 235.  Might want to add on
an expansion tank instead of having the rad overflow tube go straight to the
ground.

>I replaced the shocks all around with new ones but the rear end sags still.
>There is a guy that will replace the rear coil springs with what he calls
>"heavy duty" replacement coils springs for about $125.  Will that cure the
>rear end sag ?


Never liked air shocks but the problem is that the rear coils are wound with
smaller wire and not as tight so they sag more over time than the front.
The
air shocks will only patch the problem, not fix it.
>
>It also needs new door seal/weatherstripping and felt window liners
>sometime.  Are those items readily available and something that a novice
>could figure out how to install?
>
Don't know about availability but replacement isn't too difficult.

>The power rear window works, but has a bit of a groan to it going up the
>last 3-4 inches. I looked at the window channel and could see no
>obstructions. Is there some preventative maintenance or lubrication I
should
>do to keep it from failing?
>
Spray the tracks down with a good coat of white lithium grease.  If it
moves,
grease it!

>Last question, sorry for the length of this, where can I get a book like a
>chiltons or something on this model?  I am no expert mechanic but can
>usually follow the step by steps in such books pretty well with my basic
set
>of tools.  What book would you recommend for the most common repairs or
>replacements and maintenance that I may need to make to this car over the
>next 20 years that I would like to drive it? Thanks.
>
I would recomend trying to find a shop manual as the chiltons have a lot of
useless info that is not specifically related to an exact car.  I had a
chilton
for my 72 cutlass that also covered Vista Cruisers but you'll probably have
to
order it.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net

ps.  HEI is good! (electronic distributor/no points gap plugs for .060)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 01:54:05 -0500
From: Kyle Roe <karoe@us.ibm.com>
Subject: re:Vista

On the books issue, you'll want to buy a '72 Oldsmobile Chassis Manual. Covers
all models and good detailed instructions (most of the time).
Rear Springs -- there was just a thread here this week with the rear spring
question. Sounds like yours might need to be re-arched to put the "spring" back
in them. Seen wagons with coil over shocks too.
Beware the Brake Drums. These are Wagon only pieces, are not easy to find and
not cheap at all. Expect to pay $70 and up for new ones. You need 9.5 " x 2.5
"  (as opposed to the ever popular 9.5 x 2 ).
Lots of the rest of the stuff interchanges with other A-Body Olds 1970-1972.
Beware the channels around the roof glass -- these are somewhat rust prone, and
you're looking at hand fabrication to repair.
Sounds like the rear window motor is on the outs. Not sure about replacement.
Check with SuperCars Unlimited ; Greg Rollin of SuperCars is a list member and
you'll see his posts. Also have a web site.

Have Fun,
Kyle
karoe@us.ibm.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 23:38:12 -0800
From: Terry Watson <terent@earthlink.net>
Subject: Vista

Try Faxon Auto Literature at (800) 458 2734 for the manual, they seem to
have original factory type manuals for most everything.(original, used
and/or reprinted)

Terry Watson

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 01:54:11 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: Good cleaner for brake dust on alloy wheels?

mothers magwheel cleaner and a high pressure car wash...KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew C. Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, October 30, 1998 5:16 PM
Subject: Good cleaner for brake dust on alloy wheels?


>The thread on Pelucid reminded me of something which has been driving
>me crazy. I'm looking for some kind of spray-on solvent which will
>get brake dust off cast alloy wheels. This is for my Bonneville which
>has cast crosslace wheels (those gold designs with the silver rims);
>I hope the Olds relevance here is that GM presumably has similar ones
>for Oldsmobiles.  :-)
>
>The car had a binding caliper slide which chewed through a rotor
>pad and turned the wheel brown. I have a can of Mother's Mag Wheel
>Polish, but cleaning this by hand doesn't look practical; there's a
>million tiny crevices in the cast lacing design. Periodic washings do
>keep the other wheels clean, but this one's too far gone. Any pointers
>to a spray-on product which won't harm what I guess is a clearcoat
>finish (?) would be appreciated...
>
>-- Andy
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 02:00:47 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: T3 headlights answered

well the concours crowd put up enough of a fuss that the early ones are
being reproduced as in 64-67 vintage the 68 and later are not yet being
reproed they command about 20 to 25 bucks apiece at swaps
the repros go for 99.00 bucks a set....KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, October 30, 1998 8:33 PM
Subject: Re: T3 headlights answered


>OldsGuyGA@aol.com wrote:
>>
>>  save the t-3's yes they are dimmer than the halogen..
>> but i'm sure you know sommeone that could use em...
>>
>> they are like gold...
>
>I assume you are talking about used T-3 headlights that are still good.
>If so then I need to start collecting them when I go to the yards.  I've
>seen a few and basically ignored them as my cars had the lights in
>them.  (Not much quarters in some, but the headlights were fine.)  Is
>there any market for them?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 07:32:43 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: the one(442) that got away

AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH! That really hurts! Bruce, my deepest feelings are
with you. I would not sleep for weeks!!!

George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. (Will be more then 5k and still a piece of s...!)
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Fri, 30 Oct 1998, Bruce Camilli wrote:

> for those who had mentioned the scaricity of 442 convertibles I thought I
would share an ad found at recycler.com > > "68 Oldsmobile 442 convertible,
muscle car, rocket 350, 400 Turbo, all original, auto, good condition, red 
/blk,
white top, runs perfect, $5000 or best offer" > > I called and it was already
sold, and of the course(since I missed it), it was the original owner (elderly
man), the car was low mileage and his definition of good condition was off, it
sound more like "mint" condition in my book. I have been totally bummed all day
since talking to the guys daughter-in-law. If you want to see the picture check
out this link........... > >
http://www.recycler.com/asp/AdDetails.asp?sKW=oldsmobile+convertible&bIP=0&cmdB
t
n=Find+It%21&bAnd=1&sAC=%27All%27&iAA=&optWtd=&optSrc=&curNP=&curXP=&iNYr=67&iX
Y
r=73&bIP=0&iSC=5000&iID=14598&sBAC=805&bSQ=0 > > Bruce > 70 Delta 88 conv 
350ci >
75 Delta 88 Royale conv 455ci >

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 09:23:02 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: WTB G-BODY DOORS.

John, should cost around 50 or so am shipping a set of doors to NJ. what side
door do you need and what options? let me know thanks Chris

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 10:13:50 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: not really "a quick question"

>Hello Jason,
> The noise that you hear has nothing to do with the valves. The
>"pinging" noise you hear are uncontrolled, violent explosions occuring
>in the combustion chamber, instead of a controlled burning process.

"Ping" and "clatter" are subjective terms (like my favorites, "ticka-ticka"
and "tappa -tappa").....

Lotsa possibilities. Detonation (as described above) can be from lean
mixture, advanced timing, low octane gas, busted EGR valve (especially with
307's), plugged EGR passages, overheated engine (cooling probs), or even
hot-spots on the pistons. Carbon buildup can do it too, but usually also
shows up as dieseling when you shut the motor off. All are dangerous to your
motor.

Noises under acceleration can also be totally mechanical in nature -
everything from out of balance drive shaft to loose tranny mounts, cracked
flex plate, loose flex plate bolts, or even the fan hitting it's shroud
because a motor mount is broke. Latest hint from another list member -
starter gear hitting flywheel teeth......who woulda thought?

A bad lifter will make some serious rattles too. So will a hosed up rocker
or push rod. Usually have other symptoms with valve train problems tho.

And don't forget worn rod bearings. My old 231 V-6 sounded like it had a bag
o' marbles in the cylinders when it was hot and under heavy load. Also
evident from ~really~ low oil pressure.

Exhaust leaks can also make yer basic ticka-ticka. Especially cracked
manifolds. And smog motors with A.I.R. pumps can leak exhaust through rusted
check valves.

I just fixed a mega-annoying rattle that I was convinced was comming right
from my dashboard. Turned out to be the ~hood~ squeaking on one of it's
rubber bumpers. Finding Oldsmo-noises can be a real challenge.

drc


> The 403 is detonation[ping] prone due to it's large bore diameter, and
>it's cylinder head's large open chambers.
> You could run better gas, or retard the timing a couple degrees[not the
>best solution]. You could try richening the secondary side of the carb,
>but that may not help.
> BTW detonation is VERY harmfull to the engine.
>Dave Brode
>
>
>> jason shreve wrote:
>>
>> > I have a 72 Cutlass Supreme.  The previous owner removed the 350 and
>> > replaced it with a 78 403.  The car runs well.  The problem is when I
am> > under hard acceleration (passing gear and four barrel open.) I here a>
> clattering noise.  I think is is in the valve train. Does this sound> >
failur to anyone?
>> >
>> > Thanks  Jason Shreve
>> > danzig@midwest.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 10:18:15 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: MSD Ignition (was 426 SB Chevy)

Mike B says:
> The MSD box replaces the HEI ignition module and everything
>else remains the same. <more snipping>

Is this setup available for ECM controlled distributors too?

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 08:21:32 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Vista (Was: (none))

> It has a 350 cid, 2bbl, AC, disc brakes, oxidixed "poop brown"
> paint,

...if it's factory paint, it'll buff out nicely. Try it and see.

> and they added an HEI (whatever that is).

High Energy Ignition. You sure that isn't a later engine in there?

> It went as high as 215 degrees in the heat of the summer with
> the AC on. Is that too hot?

IMHO, no. You have more heat to dissipate under those conditions.
If it's consistently at 215 and everything checks out, then that
is the temperature it wants. If it stops being consistent and the
reading changes from whatever it used to be, then you have a problem.

> I replaced the shocks all around with new ones but the rear end
> sags still.

That's because shocks are not load-bearing (except air shocks);
changing them will not affect the ride height; only springs do that.
Air shocks can adjust ride height, but if you need extra pressure
to maintain normal height when the car is empty, then the springs
are not doing their job.

> There is a guy that will replace the rear coil springs with what
> he calls "heavy duty" replacement coils springs for about $125.
> Will that cure the rear end sag so that i dont drag bottom when
> i leave a driveway too fast?

Yes, but make sure the new springs are correct for the car. You
don't necessarily need "heavy duty" springs; you just need some
kind of _functioning_ springs.  :-)

> Or is a better option to buy some of those air shocks for the
> rear end and install them?

Not unless you're carrying heavy loads all the time. And the ones
I've had on cars give a much more punishing ride.

> The power rear window works, but has a bit of a groan to it going
> up the last 3-4 inches. I looked at the window channel and could
> see no obstructions. Is there some preventative maintenance or
> lubrication I should do to keep it from failing?

I'd try silicon spray or white lithium in the window tracks.

> Last question, sorry for the length of this, where can I get a
> book like a Chiltons or something on this model?

Seek out the factory manual. You can find one sooner or later
by mail order, Internet or whatever. I guarantee you: you read
ten pages into the factory book and you'll realize what a great
book you've got.  :-)

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 11:35:33 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: POR's Pelucid

>POR claims it will withstand 400 degrees, and will not chip, yellow or
peel.
>If it is as good as their POR15, then I will be a very happy camper indeed.

Hmmm - guaranteed not to rust, bust, collect dust, crack ,chip, dent or
peel.......
But at $38 a quart, maybe it should apply itself too.

Probly groovy for brite trim or sealing rusty bumpers.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 11:57:07 EST
From: Bowtie911@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Restoration Resource

Steven, must of missed the name of the book that you are referring to. Would
you please e-mail me with it and where to obtain it and of course the cost of
it.
Harvey Shaw
65 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 12:16:17 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: 2GC fast idle problem.

Karl figgered it out.

Y'all 'll love this one.

First, the main choke lever has two curved slots into which the fast idle
linkage and choke rod are held by horseshoe clips, one in each slot.

Now, all the diagrams that Karl remembers seeing show a 30-40' bend in the
choke rod about 3/4" to 1" up from the choke lever slot. At that point, the
rod is bent towards the rear of the car, not towards or away from the
carburetor.

The pic of SOM's 2GC clearly shows a choke rod with no such bend there.
That was the problem.

As Karl discovered by watching the engine warm up, there is a definite reason
for that bend!
You see, the choke lever did not move!

Karl knows it worked from watching engine cood a few days ago.
So...

On a cold engine, the ~straight~ choke rod is aligned in just the right
position for just a little bit more of the end of the choke rod to move into
the slot.

To be precise, the elbow of the rod, not just the end by the clip had entered
the slot and was in fact holding the choke lever down!

In his book, Doug Roe advises not to do ~anything~ to the choke if not
absolutely necessary.

Hell, Karl is fortunate his works at all!

On an unrelated note, dunno who this is but its an interesting page (to Karl
anyway);

http://www.localline.com/~mphunter/pageCLIP/page62JET/62jet.htm

Good ~informed~ info in the Jetfire turbo sys.


SOM

&KA
ICQ #20414415
http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 11:28:44 -0600
From: Shawn <shawnc@freewwweb.com>
Subject: 1976 Olds Cutlass "S"

Hello! I have a 1976 Oldsmobile Cutlass "S", and am curious of a couple
of things.
I should first start off my mentioning that this is one of the very few
that were made with the 260 V-8, 5-speed.
I should also mention that this is also a odd-ball because of the nose.
It has a slant-nose like the "442".
Can anyone tell me *exactly* how many were made, and also, how much it
this rare car worth?
I would appriciate any information on this car. Thanks in advance!!
Shawn  (shawnc@freewwweb.com)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 09:41:28 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Ertl collectibles 69 442 W-30

Quite crying at least they made a olds model!!   I have been waiting for
one for a while.

>>
>> I just bought one of these and I'm a little disappointed.  The air
>> scoops are chrome, the inner fenders look red, and there's a spot for
a
>> right hand mirror cut into the door but no mirror.
>
>OK, the scoops are chrome and shouldn't be, but the inner fenders
SHOULD
>be red.
>As far as the mirror, they used the same casting for the '69 H/O which
>has one there.
>
>> If anyone know of a source for a rear wing for the 1/18" model then
>> please post to me (the list don't care).
>
>Yes, get the Ertl '69 H/O.  However, the wing was not an option on the
>442 in '69.
>
>--
>Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
>71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
>OCA# 30442
>
>*****************************************************
>* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
>*****************************************************
>
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 13:11:22 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Epilogue: EPA stance on use of two catalytic converters.

Yah.
Been awhile since this got started.
Been busy since.
Figgered this interesting
Enjoy:

>What if I could prove that my dual cats (on a emission-controlled vehicle)
met or exceeded emissions standards?

<<  Under Memorandum 1A, if you could prove that the emissions are less, then
we would not consider it tampering and would not enforce it.  You may still
have problems getting through a State I/M program though because they often
 require you to have the system the way it came from the factory.  Often those
programs are less flexible because of the problems in dealing with individuals
motorists where they have to evaluate each vehicle and treat everybody the
 same, and then give a pass or fail.  On the other hand our attorney's would
just choose not to prosecute and base it on Memo 1A which is basically an
enforcement policy.

 The thing about aftermarket converters is that they are generally not as good
as the OEM converters because their performance and durability requirements
are much less.  That is why they cost so much less.  That is also why we put
restrictions on when they can be installed on vehicles (after their warranty
period runs out).  It's probably a good bet that duals with 2 aftermarket
converters won't be cleaner than a single system with an OEM converter nor
will they meet federal emissions standards for the useful life.  We've had
many exhaust manufacturers and an association which represented muffler shops
start down that road only to find that emissions go up unless you use
catalysts that are better than the current aftermarket ones and choke off the
flow to increase back pressure.  When you do that, the costs go up
considerably and obviously the increased back pressure isn't what you wanted
in the
 first place.  I guess they decided that it just wasn't worth it.  That's
probably why many of the OEM dual exhaust systems use more than just 2
catalysts or larger ones because they need more catalyst  material to clean up
the
 exhaust and meet federal standards.
 Hope this is helpful.   >>

So it goes.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 13:15:38 EST
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Ertl collectibles 69 442 W-30

well i happen to have the 69 442 w-30 and the 69 h/o, and over all i was
pretty impressed.  not as impressed as with the real thing, but still there
not too bad.  i just wish they would make more model years, say maybe a rallye
350, or a 70 w-30.    a conv. would be really cool!    steven,
w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 15:36:37 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 1976 Olds Cutlass "S"

Here's one for the OCC guys here... this person is not on the list so
respond to shawnc@freewwweb.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Shawn <shawnc@freewwweb.com>
Subject: 1976 Olds Cutlass "S"

Hello! I have a 1976 Oldsmobile Cutlass "S", and am curious of a couple
of things.
I should first start off my mentioning that this is one of the very few
that were made with the 260 V-8, 5-speed.
I should also mention that this is also a odd-ball because of the nose.
It has a slant-nose like the "442".
Can anyone tell me *exactly* how many were made, and also, how much it
this rare car worth?
I would appriciate any information on this car. Thanks in advance!!
Shawn  (shawnc@freewwweb.com)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 15:39:04 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: real rocket engine convertible (fwd)

  This message is in MIME format.  The first part should be readable text,
  while the remaining parts are likely unreadable without MIME-aware tools.
  Send mail to mime@docserver.cac.washington.edu for more info.

- ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BE04B6.509BCF60
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Content-ID: <Pine.GSO.3.95.iB1.0.981031153747.25328I@halifax.chebucto.ns.ca>


I received this privately, and know nothing about it but thought some
might be interested. Respond to rick.reeves@bbs.nfe.com if interested.

Tell Bruce Camille that I have a real rocket engine, convertible, 1970,
matador red with white interior and top, Olds 98, with 29,5000 orginal
miles and am selling it for a steal, $ 9,500(as I am retiring and moving
to smaller digs and won't have the storage space for this wonderful car).
Picture attached.  Thanks, Rick

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada


- ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BE04B6.509BCF60--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 15:42:58 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Carter vs. Quadrajet (fwd)

From a former member, respond to bct@mail.airmail.net if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: bct@mail.airmail.net
Subject: Carter vs. Quadrajet

Hi Greg!

How are you doing? I miss you guys a lot! I still am uns*bbed, but will be
res*bbing in December, after my semester from h@!! is over. :) I need
yalls expertise and opinions. Here is my scenario:

Junior's (my '72 Cutlass) carb decided to die. Something has happened in
the right side of the carb, the side that feeds the upper plane of the
intake. We blew it out, rebuilt it and it is still cranky. Right now, it
looks like Kim gets to buy a new carb for Junior. I was running a Carter
AFB 600. I loved the performance and response I got from it, and was very
dependable up until now. The Carter replaced my original QJ in 1991. I had
several problems with the QJ. It would never stay adjusted, it would flood
and Junior would run like #$@%.

Question #1: Has anyone ever had these problems with Carter?
Question #2: For those of you who run QJs, do you have good luck with them?
Perhaps I just got a lemon.

Thanks bunches for your input! Please respond privately to this address (my
work address) because I am not using my Jove account right now. :) Happy
Halloween! Be careful and stay safe.

Kim Wandrey & Junior ('72 Cutlass Supreme)
bct@airmail.net
Member OCA & NTOC, Dallas, Texas

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 12:49:02 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: real rocket engine convertible (fwd)

> I have a real rocket engine, convertible, 1970, matador red with white
> interior and top, Olds 98, with 29,5000 orginal miles
                                  ^^^^^^^
Kinda makes me wonder where the typo occured, if the commas in the wrong place,
or there's an extra zero....  :)



- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 13:02:41 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Addendum... Epilogue: EPA stance on use of two catalytic converters.

> >What if I could prove that my dual cats (on a emission-controlled vehicle)
> met or exceeded emissions standards?
>
> <<  Under Memorandum 1A, if you could prove that the emissions are less, then
> we would not consider it tampering and would not enforce it.

There was a time when the law mandated any engine swap take on the emissions of
the newer of the engine or vehicle, i.e., if you put a 77 engine in a 57 car,
that 57 had to meet 77 emissions standards...  Those goofy laws are probably
still around, and could be used to your advantage.  The kids they have running
the tests probably won't know how to tell what year that engine is...  For that
matter, they ~probably~ won't know anything of SOM's relatives' production
numbers, either.  "Yeah, they actually made 3475 of these high perf models...
Hell, Oldsmobile started experimenting with cat/convs in 63...  Some of the
experimental 64 442s had the dual cat setup.  Turned out to be too restrictive,
so very few others had 'em, until the EPA mandated it..."  Most of the test
monkeys would probably buy it hook line and sinker...  If not, you could 
proceed
to tell them about the Olds airbags that started in the mid 70s...  "Yeah, I
just happen to have some documentation on ~that~ stuff right here with me...
wanna see it?"  That'll leave them so dumbfounded they won't know ~what~ to
believe, so you can go right back to claiming your dual cats really are stock 
:)

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 14:14:09 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Rocker Panel Replacement

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BE04D8.BA03A280
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

On my 68 Supreme I need to replace the pass side rocker panel=20
below the door (door too).  I picked it up about a year ago for=20
$1200 since the original owners son slid it sideways into a=20
concrete pole and bent the door and rocker in about 6" in the=20
middle of the door.  I've aquired all the tools I need and have=20
a couple leads locally on a new door and rocker but would=20
like to hear from anyone who has had to do this before to see
if there's anything I should be aware of before I start cutting and
welding.

I x'ed out the frame and measured just about everything possible
and it's still square and the car doesn't "dog walk".  The door still
opens and shuts fine and all the glass functions properly (after some
creative use of a sledge).  It appears that I can cut the rocker off of=20
the front door frame and about 12" in front of the rear of the door=20
opening, then cut the welds off that attach the floorpan to get it=20
out.  I am skillful at welding and fabricating but this is a structural =
part=20
of the car and know that the rockers in these cars are fairly thick.
Any advice from someone who has done this before would be=20
greatly appreciated.  Thanks.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net


- ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BE04D8.BA03A280
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<HEAD>

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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>On my 68 Supreme I need to replace the pass side rocker panel =
</DIV>
<DIV>below the door (door too).&nbsp; I picked it up about a year ago =
for </DIV>
<DIV>$1200 since the original owners son slid it sideways into a </DIV>
<DIV>concrete pole and bent the door and rocker in about 6&quot; in the =
</DIV>
<DIV>middle of the door.&nbsp; I've aquired all the tools I need and =
have </DIV>
<DIV>a couple leads locally on a new door and rocker but would </DIV>
<DIV>like to hear from anyone who has had to do this before to see</DIV>
<DIV>if there's anything I should be aware of before I start cutting =
and</DIV>
<DIV>welding.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I x'ed out the frame and measured just about everything =
possible</DIV>
<DIV>and it's still square and the car doesn't &quot;dog =
walk&quot;.&nbsp; The=20
door still</DIV>
<DIV>opens and shuts fine and all the glass functions properly (after =
some</DIV>
<DIV>creative use of a sledge).&nbsp; It appears that I can cut the =
rocker off=20
of </DIV>
<DIV>the front door frame and about 12&quot; in front of the rear of the =
door=20
</DIV>
<DIV>opening, then cut the welds off that attach the floorpan to get it =
</DIV>
<DIV>out.&nbsp; I am skillful at welding and fabricating but this is a=20
structural part </DIV>
<DIV>of the car and know that the rockers in these cars are fairly =
thick.</DIV>
<DIV>Any advice from someone who has done this before would be </DIV>
<DIV>greatly appreciated.&nbsp; Thanks.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>Mike B<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@gateway.net">mbloomer@gateway.net</A><BR></FONT><=
/DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BE04D8.BA03A280--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 14:19:00 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: not really "a quick question"

>I just fixed a mega-annoying rattle that I was convinced was comming right
>from my dashboard. Turned out to be the ~hood~ squeaking on one of it's
>rubber bumpers. Finding Oldsmo-noises can be a real challenge.
>
>drc
>
Then there was that mysterious deep bass sound when I would let off of the
throttle on the freeway going downhill on my '72 Cutlass.  By dumb luck
found
a trans mount that was broken in half and scrapes on the floor where the
driveshaft was hitting.

Mike B

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 14:25:16 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: MSD Ignition (was 426 SB Chevy)

MSD makes applications for just about everything built by man.
Check out http://www.msdignition.com/ and poke around.  I don't
want to sound like their spokesman or anything but I've installed
them on probably 50 different vehicles and never had a problem
or a complaint.

Mike B

>Mike B says:
>> The MSD box replaces the HEI ignition module and everything
>>else remains the same. <more snipping>
>
>Is this setup available for ECM controlled distributors too?
>
>drc
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 15:42:56 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: 426 SB Chevy

ouch!!!!!!!!.....that was painful to me...and Im not even the one it was aimed
at!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 15:50:33 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: 1976 Olds Cutlass "S"

In a message dated 98-10-31 14:39:59 EST, you write:

<< I should first start off my mentioning that this is one of the very few
 that were made with the 260 V-8, 5-speed.  I should also mention that this is
also a odd-ball because of the nose. It has a slant-nose like the "442". Can
anyone tell me *exactly* how many were made, and also, how much it this rare
car worth?
 I would appriciate any information on this car. Thanks in advance!!  >>


OoooH! Oooh!

Meee! Meee!

As my father's Oldsmobile (not mine) was a 1976 Cutlas "S".....

Sorry, the droop-snoot was apparently an option (or part of the base model...)
and was not exclusive to the 4 4 2 as my fathers Olds came with that.

Incidentally you do not mention 2 versus 4 doors. But if you're being pulled
around by a 260, Karl hopes a 2dr for your sake.

"Setting the Pace" says..
59179 Hardtop Coupes
34994 Collonade Hardtop Sedans

So my fathers 4dr would have been more "rare" than the coupe.

Also indicats the coupe has std L22, with optional LV8 and L34, L74

Karl not familiar with the L-codes, but is willing to bet that ain't one of
them a 260 engine.
More likely 260cid engine was a downgrade from std.

Not particularly desireable, cannot say that the 260 makes it rare.

As for its value, consult:

http://www.kbb.com/

That will be your best bet.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 16:09:02 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: real rocket engine convertible (fwd)

In a message dated 98-10-31 14:52:52 EST, you write:

<< I have a real rocket engine, convertible, 1970, matador red with white
interior and top, Olds 98, with 29,5000 orginal miles >>
                                   ^^^^^^^
> Kinda makes me wonder where the typo occured, if the commas in the wrong
> place, or there's an extra zero....  :)

Wrong!
Actually that is the price!

This is, of course, the 12 millionth Oldsmobile ever built!

Whereas over 1 million were turned out in 1977, this car represented a
particular post-war landmark for Oldsmobile!

And if you are skeptical....

You're right!

Karl is kidding!

Of several 98 models totaling over 80K produced, out of 635K total
Oldsmobiles.
One WAS the 12 millionth, and matador red was available in 1970.
But if IT was a 98, Oldsmobile must still own it, or someone dropped the
ball...

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 15:33:56 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: 1953 Olds Super 88

To all,
Saw a 1953 Super 88, 4 dr, on car lot today, has 53 written on w/s. They
are MUCH bigger then I remember them. Couldn't stop at the time, no flames
please, will check tomorrow if it's still there. White bottom w/ gray top.
Small car lot but was the biggest thing I have seen in a long time, sure it
was an 88, not 98. Always thought dad's car was big because I was very
little, WRONG.
Let you all know whats happening after Sun. Yes I am sober, no pot, but it
is Halloween.

Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 16:16:13 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Fw: WARNING!!!!!---Telephone Scam

Just thought I would pass this along, just recieved it from my Dad.
>
>                Received this from an ICQ bud from Victoria, B.C.
>
>                Telephone Scam
>
>                FOR YOUR INFORMATION......SEE THE MESSAGE BELOW
>
>                I received a telephone call today from an individual
>identifying himself as an AT&T Service Technician who was conducting a test
>on our telephone lines. He stated that to complete the test I should touch
>nine (9), zero (0), the pound sign (#) and then hang up.
>
>                Luckily, I was suspicious and refused.
>
>                Upon contacting the telephone company, I was informed that
>by pushing 90#, you give the requesting individual full access to your
>telephone line, which allows them to place long distance telephone calls
>billed to your home phone number. I was further informed that this scam has
>been originating from many of the local jails/prisons. I have also verified
>this information with UCB telecomm, Pacific Bell, MCI, Bell Atlantic, GTE
>and NYNEX.
>
>                Please beware.
>
>                DO NOT press 90# for ANYONE. The GTE Security Department
>requested that I share this information with EVERYONE I KNOW. PLEASE pass
>this on to everyone YOU know. If you have mailing lists and/or newsletters
>from organizations you are connected with, I encourage you to pass on this
>information to them, too.
>
>
>
>
Olds content:  anyone have a good place to source a rocker panel for my '68
cutlass?  Waiting to hear back from desert dog auto parts.  Anyone dealt
with
them?

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 17:51:29 EST
From: W451973@aol.com
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: 1976 Olds Cutlass "S"

your 260-5speed is uncommen, but not rare by no means, the slanted 442 style
header panel came on ALL 76 cutlass s models, including cutlass s 4 doors.
dennis
w451973

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 16:20:42 -0700
From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@hotmail.com>
Subject: Suspension Question

I used to have a pair of what I would call "rear coil spring perch
extenders" from a '68 442 I bought for parts.  These parts sat on top of
the rear coil spring perches and effectively raised the lower mounting
position of the rear coil spring by 0.75" to 1.00".  Has anyone heard of
these or know where I can find another set?

Thanks for any leads.

Bob
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----
 Robert J. Lavey			mailto://rjlavey@hotmail.com
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.			Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302			Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 17:37:32 -0600
From: "Ron Hengerer" <rhengerer@email.msn.com>
Subject: HEI Dist.

I want to replace my 1974 Old's Cutless points ignition with a HEI system.
Where is the best place to get this from, I am not building a high
performance engine.  How about from a 75 Old's?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 17:40:50 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Suspension Question

They are used for sagging rear coils to bring the ride height back up.
I've got a set on my 68 Supreme and the thing still almost scrapes the
ground!  Install a new set of springs and you won't need em, theyre just
a "patch all".  As far as where to get them I have no idea.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net

>I used to have a pair of what I would call "rear coil spring perch
>extenders" from a '68 442 I bought for parts.  These parts sat on top of
>the rear coil spring perches and effectively raised the lower mounting
>position of the rear coil spring by 0.75" to 1.00".  Has anyone heard of
>these or know where I can find another set?
>
>Thanks for any leads.
>
>Bob
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -
>----
> Robert J. Lavey mailto://rjlavey@hotmail.com
> 13243 W. Dahlia Dr. Home:  (208) 939-5418
> Boise, ID  83713-1302 Fax:   (208) 939-5452
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -
>----
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 15:53:15 -0800 (PST)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: HEI Dist.

- ---Ron Hengerer <rhengerer@email.msn.com> wrote:
>
> I want to replace my 1974 Old's Cutless points ignition with a HEI
system.
> Where is the best place to get this from, I am not building a high
> performance engine.  How about from a 75 Old's?
>
> ----------An HEI from a 75-80 would be best(non-computer), as far as
going in it's a direct bolt in, there are only minor wiring updates,
which should already be on your car.I can get that info for you if you
need it, or it can be found at http://www.442.com  in the Olds FAQ.
          Hope this helps,
>
>

==
John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com
  ICQ # 16956740      Lithia Springs, Ga.
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 17:55:22 -0800
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: HEI Dist.

>I want to replace my 1974 Old's Cutless points ignition with a HEI system.
>Where is the best place to get this from, I am not building a high
>performance engine.  How about from a 75 Old's?
>
Any Olds from 75 to 79 is a good donar vehicle, (it must be an Olds). Make
sure you get the wiring harness connector from the host vehicle too. This is
the part that plugs into the HEI distributor. Check the distributor for
excess up and down play in the shaft. Try to stay under .100".
It will pay to get a new cap, roter and HEI module for the distributor
unless you know the donor parts are new.
The Olds FAQ at www.442.com has a good installation guide for this swap.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 98 19:22:28 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: Suspension Question

At 04:20 PM 10/31/98 -0700, you wrote:
>I used to have a pair of what I would call "rear coil spring perch
>extenders" from a '68 442 I bought for parts.  These parts sat on top of
>the rear coil spring perches and effectively raised the lower mounting
>position of the rear coil spring by 0.75" to 1.00".  Has anyone heard of
>these or know where I can find another set?
>

    Never heard of these.  What material were they made of?  I'm sure that
they could probably be fabricated.  Sounds better than the rubber spacers.


   Glenn
   '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 19:34:32 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: Carter vs. Quadrajet (fwd)

<<Junior's (my '72 Cutlass) carb decided to die. Something has happened in
the right side of the carb, the side that feeds the upper plane of the
intake. We blew it out, rebuilt it and it is still cranky. Right now, it
looks like Kim gets to buy a new carb for Junior. I was running a Carter
AFB 600. I loved the performance and response I got from it, and was very
dependable up until now. The Carter replaced my original QJ in 1991. I had
several problems with the QJ. It would never stay adjusted, it would flood
and Junior would run like #$@%.

Question #1: Has anyone ever had these problems with Carter?
Question #2: For those of you who run QJs, do you have good luck with them?
Perhaps I just got a lemon.>>

two suggestions about the carter.  one is a stronger fuel filter.  the other
is a serious cleaning.  take out the idle mixture screws, blow in them with
compressed air.  this will blow out any debris.  these carbs have tiny idle
ports for the fuel to pass through.  as for the q-jet, i've never had any
major problems with them.

mikeytvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 18:45:10 -0600
From: Dan Williams <442much@plutonium.net>
Subject: Rear End Color ?

I have a question about the correct color of the rear end in my 68 442.
I always assumed it was Semi or Gloss black for the rear diff and
axles.  However, I have seen several painted natural.  I looked at an
article in MCR by Jeff Lilly (June/July 97), about detailing a 67 442
chassis, and the rear end is painted cast blast, with the axle housings
being bare steel.  The article also mentions Curt Anderson as a National
authority on 67 442s who aided in the resto.  According to How to
Restore Your Muscle Car it lists gloss black as the correct color for
the differential and Natural for the axles.  Both these sources are very
respected people in the field.  I still tend to think the entire section
should be Semi Gloss black.  Anybody know the answer?

TIA,

- -Dan
- --
Dan Williams                            442Much@plutonium.net
Marion, IA                                     68 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 19:57:04 -0700
From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Suspension Question

At 07:22 PM 10/31/98 -0500, you wrote:
>At 04:20 PM 10/31/98 -0700, you wrote:
>>I used to have a pair of what I would call "rear coil spring perch
>>extenders" from a '68 442 I bought for parts.  These parts sat on top of
>>the rear coil spring perches and effectively raised the lower mounting
>>position of the rear coil spring by 0.75" to 1.00".  Has anyone heard of
>>these or know where I can find another set?
>>
>    Never heard of these.  What material were they made of?  I'm sure that
>they could probably be fabricated.  Sounds better than the rubber spacers.
>
>   Glenn
>   '69 4-4-2

They are steel.  They sit on top of the rear end's coil spring perches and
create a new perch that is relocated 0.75" to 1.00" higher than the stock
perch.  They seem like a good idea as they allow one to adjust the ride
height without affecting the spring's characteristics.  As Mike already
mentioned, they seems to be mostly used as a fix for sagging springs, but
my intention is to adjust the rake of my car.

I also agree that I could have a set made (since I don't weld), but if they
are commercially available, it might be cheaper.

I'm thinking that the 4x4 crowd might have some leads...

Bob


- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----
 Robert J. Lavey			mailto://rjlavey@hotmail.com
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.			Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302			Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 20:42:49 -0800
From: "Tim Wurtz" <tw@micron.net>
Subject: Re: HEI Dist.

I can supply you with all the parts you need to do this swap. I have a lot
of oldsmobile parts in my salvage yard. Thanks Tim

All Makes Auto Salvage
4026 Banner St.
Boise, Idaho 83709
208-362-7111


- -----Original Message-----
From: Ron Hengerer <rhengerer@email.msn.com>
To: G-Body List <olds_gbody@listbot.com>; Old's list
<Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, October 31, 1998 3:39 PM
Subject: HEI Dist.


>I want to replace my 1974 Old's Cutless points ignition with a HEI system.
>Where is the best place to get this from, I am not building a high
>performance engine.  How about from a 75 Old's?
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 22:49:43 -0500
From: Jim Olson <jolson@remcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: 426 SB Chevy

For what it's worth,

I recently installed a 307 Olds engine in my 83 Chevy wagon due to lack
of finances for a small block and the fact that I had the engine from a
parted out Cutlass.

Are you guys going to flame me for doing that?

Jim...
'83 Olds powered Chevy Wagon

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 22:31:08 -0600
From: Dan Williams <442much@plutonium.net>
Subject: Suspension Question - Poly vs rubber

I'm trying to decide between Polygraphite vs rubber suspension
components.  The only reason I don't want to go with the ploy is of
course the squeaking problem.  For the Ploy, it seems like a better
choice to go with Performance Suspension Components than PST
(Performance Suspension Technology).   Performance Suspension Components
offers a lifetime warranty and is cheaper.  Any suggestions?

- -Dan
- --
Dan Williams                            442Much@plutonium.net
Marion, IA                                     68 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 22:40:15 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Suspension Question - Poly vs rubber

Dan,
If you want Polygraphite then you'll have to go with PST as I think
they are the only ones that offer it.  The difference is between
Polygraphite and your normal Polyeurathane (sp?).  PST is the only
ones I know of that impregnate the poly w/graphite to elimanate the
tendancy to squeak.  I've used the PST parts including body mounts
and never had a problem with squeaks when installed properly and
it makes the car feel a lot tighter.  I could be wrong, but I think that
the ones from PSC don't have the graphite and that is the cost
difference.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net

>I'm trying to decide between Polygraphite vs rubber suspension
>components.  The only reason I don't want to go with the ploy is of
>course the squeaking problem.  For the Ploy, it seems like a better
>choice to go with Performance Suspension Components than PST
>(Performance Suspension Technology).   Performance Suspension Components
>offers a lifetime warranty and is cheaper.  Any suggestions?
>
>-Dan
>--

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Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 00:58:50 -0600 (CST)
From: blue442@webtv.net
Subject: Re: Suspension Question - Poly vs rubber

Dan and list,

I have Energy Suspension poly bushings on my car, front and rear. The
only squeaks I hear are as I leave the driveway on a below freezing day.
after the initial flex they seem to warm up and get quiet.  BTW, it the
weather usually does not get very cold in the great state of Texas. I
remember negative 2 degrees in the last few years.  If this little
squeak really bothers you, get headers and loud mufflers.

Oldsmobiles make the world go 'round,
Jeff Carter

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1581
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