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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1574


oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, October 27 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1574



Re: open element air cleaner
Re: What do you think of the Alero?
Goodnight to all
RE: open element air cleaner
Re: open element air cleaner
Re: open element air cleaner
Re: open element air cleaner
NEED  A 442
Re: Oldsmobile Screen Saver
Exhaust Conversion.
Re: Bondo - my .02
Re: Aligning a door
Re: door jamb bolt
Re: open element air cleaner
Re: open element air cleaner
Re: open element air cleaner
Re: Exhaust Conversion.
Re: 307 build-up
Oldsmobile Restoration Resource
unsubscribe oldsmobile
RE: 307 build-up
Re: FS: 68-75+ Olds Parts
Re: Oldsmobile Restoration Resource - NOT!
Re: fs:  parts
Air cleaners, carbs, flowmasters, et. al.(soapbox)
403 heads..best?
Re: Exhaust Conversion.
Re: Air cleaners, carbs, flowmasters, et. al.(soapbox)
Re: Snip
B&M Transpak/Shift Kit
Re: What do you think of the Alero?
Aftermarket Cams
Re: wetherstrip kit
Re: B&M Transpak/Shift Kit
Re: Air cleaners, carbs, flowmasters, et. al.(soapbox)
Re: 403 heads..best?
Re: Aftermarket Cams (LONG!)
Re: B&M Transpak/Shift Kit
Cam Selection Software
Re: 403 heads..best?
Re: Exhaust Conversion.
RE: Open Air Cleaners
Re: 403 heads..best?
Re: Aftermarket Cams
Re: carburator
Re: 1987 olds cutlass engine buid up
Re: Exhaust Conversion.
Re: B&M Transpak/Shift Kit

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 19:29:53 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: open element air cleaner

Tom,
They are correct, but the actual increase in richness is minute, unless
your Warren Johnson, you would not know that it did. Speaking strictly of
street cars here. Carb venturi's are designed to take that in account. Take
air filter, throw it away, more power, but plug readings would prove to be
damn hard to find a change in mixture. Still, less air, less fuel, thus
leaner. Over simplified a bit. Trying to share 25 years of racing, not
perfect, but close. Wish you well. Do not wish to come across as "know it
all", darn sure! trying to share what cost me a lot to learn.
Lou.
- ----------
> From: Thomas P. Smith <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: open element air cleaner
> Date: Monday, October 26, 1998 6:49 PM
> "Any calibration testing should be performed with the air cleaner in
place.
> Depending upon the
> air cleaner used, the metering typically will be leaner with the air
cleaner in
> place.......If you are running a smaller air cleaner and have optimized
the WOT
> with it in place, do not be surprised to find that the metering shifts
RICHER
> when the air cleaner is removed."
> Thomas P. Smith
> 1971 Cutlass S 350
> smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 17:29:53 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: What do you think of the Alero?

At 07:23 PM 10/26/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Saw my first Alero today on the dealer's lot (Hays is a small town and pickup
>trucks rule the roost here!)  It's a green coupe and sticker is about
$21,700.
>Lots of options including the V-6.  I *LIKE* the looks of this one.

I think it is a nice looking (for new) car. I just wish that
it would stop shrieking at me. :(

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 19:34:45 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Goodnight to all

Have to go to work, good nite to all.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 20:40:51 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: open element air cleaner

On Monday, October 26, 1998 8:30 PM, Lou Biggs [SMTP:lbiggs@intertek.net] 
wrote:
>
> street cars here. Carb venturi's are designed to take that in account. Take
> air filter, throw it away, more power, but plug readings would prove to be

More power without the air filter?  I've heard conflicting stories about this,
including a statement from Car Craft on page 87 of the Nov. 98 issue,
"Invalidating popular beliefs, the engine made about 3.9 more hp with the
air-cleaner setup in place."  They ran a 600-horse Chevy motor with and without
a 14" open element K&N air-cleaner assembly and they're saying that it made 
more
power with the filter installed.

I have *no* racing experience, so I'm confused by these conflicting statements.
Just asking...
 :-)

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 19:49:48 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: open element air cleaner

What most people loose sight of is that an engine runs as a system
and you have to take the whole into consideration.  If you have a
very restrictive intake ducting system then an open element air cleaner
will allow you to flow more air but only to the point that the rest of the
system can flow.  When you start flowing more air the mixture goes lean
until additional fuel is added to bring the mix back to the rich side, then
you start making more power.  If the intake is not as restrictive as the
exhaust then you will not make more power by going with an open element
because the exhaust will still be the limiting factor.  I have seen people
put a 4 barrel and intake on a car with single exhaust and get upset
because they didn't see the massive increase in power that their buddys
told them they would get.  The other thing to look at is that I have seen
people bolt on air cleaners that look nice but if you look at the base
it doesn't have a smooth transition between the horizontal flow going
through the filter and the vertical flow going into the carb.  This could
actually REDUCE the amount of air getting into the carb due to turbulence
and cause a rich condition.  Most stock air cleaners have a very smooth
transition going into the carb compared to some of the aftermarket ones
I have seen.  Another overlooked thing that could cause the open element
to run richer is due to not using the factory flapper valve in the snorkel
during start up and when the engine is warm the air going into the
engine tends to be warmer air (less dense) rising off the hot motor.  The
snorkel type, especially with ducting away from the engine, pulls air from
an area away from the engine which tends to be cooler.  The best setup
from a performance standpoint is a ram air system that pulls cool air from
a high pressure area in front of the car.  It just takes a little
imagination and
you can modify a stock air cleaner with dual snorkels hooked to semi-
rigid dryer ducting, in turn hooked to scoops under/in the bumper.  I've
done it on both carbureted and F.I. motors and it works very well,
especially
with a modified exhaust.  Before I get slammed by everyone and thier
brother, let me say that the thing that is hard about performance tuning
a car is that everything is dependant on everything else and what I've said
(sorry it took so long to say) is general guidelines that may not work in
every
situation.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net

- -----Original Message-----
From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, October 26, 1998 6:12 PM
Subject: Re: open element air cleaner


>No,
>More fuel and also more air, mixture should not change with carb. equipped
>engine, now using more of both, mileage will decrease, HP will increase, at
>least that is what the BOOK says. Should not make it backfire, ever!
>Something else wrong there.
>Lou

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 20:55:48 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: open element air cleaner

the air filter creates turbulance.  this stirrs up the fuel.  without an air
filter your engine would also bog under hard acceleration due to fuel
starvation.  most good carbs should be able to meter fuel the same with and
without a filter.  the filter should only affect the idle speed.  you can use
an open or closed filter, it shouldn't matter.  if you have a stock setup,
just turn over the air cleaner lid and there will be enough of a gap to let
air in.  no filter can make a big difference.  i have used k&n filters and
they perform the same.  the tests they show the public don't tell all the info
we buyers need.  they just say they add hp.  well we all know we will buy a
product that says that.  they don't tell you what they compare theirs to.
that's the biggest illusion.
for any questions or responses------reply to me.
the end

mikeytvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 11:03:54 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: open element air cleaner

>Can someone tell me if open element air cleaners cause your car to burn
more
>gas? This is a rumor I heard. And also who makes the best open element air
>cleaner?????????????????????????

If anything it should improve your mileage cause the engine can breathe
better.  Get a K&N open, this will help.  I have open edelbrock with a paper
element on my 455 and it is good.  I will go with K&N soon.  I bough my
friend a open air-cleaner for his '86 Cutlass with 305 chev, and he loves
it.  It is also louder when you punch it so it sounds cool.  One example.
This summer, I traveled to the next province about 500 miles one way twice
with my 307 Regency.  The fist time it was night, the car was empty, it was
cool outside and no traffic.  Perfect conditions right.  I got to a good
distance on one tank of propane.  I was happy.  The next time I went it was
me and my girlfriend, day, hot, lots of traffic, car fully loaded with crap
and the only thing I did was flip the air cleaner lid so to simulate open
air filter.  Guess what, even with worst conditions, I got about 60 more
miles on the tank (and still no low fuel but I filled anyway).  The fliped
lid has to be the answer as that is the only thing favoring the milage.

noise.

Igor Todorovic, UofC

1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/2004r/propane)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 21:01:07 EST
From: Monkey2351@aol.com
Subject: NEED  A 442

Hey List,
I want to buy a 442 between the years of 68-72. Must be a convertible. If
possible would like to see car before buying.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 21:04:27 EST
From: Monkey2351@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Screen Saver

I would also like the Oldsmobile screen saver!

Monkey

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 20:00:52 -0600
From: "Ron Hengerer" <rhengerer@email.msn.com>
Subject: Exhaust Conversion.

I recently bought a 74 Cutless Supreme from a little ole lady.  I want to
fix the car up so it looks and runs good, I am not interested in high
performance.  Two things I would like to do is replace my points distributor
with an HEI  and convert my single exhaust to a dual.  I talked to a small
muffler shop in our area and the fellow said he would cut the crossover pipe
and install a dual exhaust system with two new mufflers for about $150.   I
am wondering if anyone can help me with my choice of good sounding (mellow
not real loud mufflers.)

Thanks Ron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 20:09:40 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Bondo - my .02

FWIW on 1) From my experience the bondo's strength in adhereing is due
to the coarse surface and not the holes.  I have seen what your talking
about
a lot where holes were drilled to pull the panel back into place before the
bondo was applied.  and 2) On the stainless wire cloth I have never seen
it quite like that but whoever did it probably didn't cut the rusted area
completely out and thus the reoccurence of the cancer.  It is very important
to cut the rusted area out including some of the good metal to make sure
that it doesn't come back.  While you've got a big hole might as well weld
in
a new patch.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark Thurman <Thurman@kvnet.org>
To: Olds Mailing List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, October 26, 1998 1:15 PM
Subject: Bondo - my .02


>FWIW I have seen 2 interesting bondo applications while working on my 70
>cutlass: 1) on my parts car, on the body around a quarter panel
replacement,
>whoever applied the bondo had drilled many 3/16" holes and "squished" the
>bondo into them.  This seems to have given the bondo an unbelievable grip
to
>the
>panel.  The welds were ground but left very, very rough.  The car sat
>exposed
>16 years at my house but I don't know how old the repair was, it
>took a chisel to loosen most of bondo.  2) in the front fenders of my
>current resto
>project, the lower areas had been rebuilt with much bondo & a very coarse
>stainless steel wire
>cloth.  This yielded a very strong repair, the major problem seemed to
>be that the repair was done with the fender attached to the car, so the
>cured bondo was
>constantly exposed to moisture on the inside.  I belive I read that bondo
>holds moisture, so the surrounding metal had rusted away.
>Where there was no rust it took much effort to dislodge the bondo.....mt
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 20:15:37 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Aligning a door

If the hinge is not welded to the door jamb then your good because that is
the side you want to loosen to adjust the height of the door and its f/r
level.
The door side of the hinge adjusts the door as far as aligning the front
edge
of the door in depth with the fender at the top and bottom "twist".  Use the
striker to align the depth of the rear of the door with the quarterpanel.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net

>
>> the brackets are tack welded?? on both the door jam and the door itself?
>
>It looks like the hinge is tack-welded to the door.
>
>I think my doors are not high enough since the w/s is higher up on the
>door
>sill.  I don't believe I have any play with either door.
>
>--
>Chris Sparks
>68 442 SC - Frosty
>68 442 HT - Scarlet
>68 442 HT - Saffron
>82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
>http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 21:18:43 -0500
From: rocco0@home.com
Subject: Re: door jamb bolt

Bruce,

It's Rocco Vita From Woodbridge, Ontario, Canada. The bolt that was
stripted if it is the striker pin buy a new piece. But if the new piece
does not thread properly the plate inside the door post will need to be
replaced od retapped.
							
							Rcocco R. Vita

JonKrisInc@aol.com wrote:
>
> I have been hearing this incessent squeaking noise coming from (what I 
thought
> was) my rear window. After dismantling and retightening everything, I 
realized
> it was the door jamb bolt. The torx screw has been stripped and I was
> wondering if  I can replace the bolt. Are they readily available? Can they be
> bought new?  does anyone have one I could buy? Much obliged.
> Bruce
> 75 Delta 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 20:22:32 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: open element air cleaner

Jason,
Air cleaner setup,
With properly designed base air filter might give more HP,  ran Hemi's
without air filters but had air flow tops for carbs, increased efficiency
of air flow, look at carb top, does not lend itself to directing air flow
thru carb, filter bottom can do this. Does anyone remember viscosity stacks
for fuel injection engines, same thing. Almost ram tuning.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
> To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject: RE: open element air cleaner
> Date: Monday, October 26, 1998 7:40 PM
>
> On Monday, October 26, 1998 8:30 PM, Lou Biggs [SMTP:lbiggs@intertek.net]
wrote:
> >
> > street cars here. Carb venturi's are designed to take that in account.
Take
> > air filter, throw it away, more power, but plug readings would prove to
be
>
> More power without the air filter?  I've heard conflicting stories about
this, including a
> statement from Car Craft on page 87 of the Nov. 98 issue, "Invalidating
popular beliefs, the engine
> made about 3.9 more hp with the air-cleaner setup in place."  They ran a
600-horse Chevy motor with
> and without a 14" open element K&N air-cleaner assembly and they're
saying that it made more power
> with the filter installed.
>
> I have *no* racing experience, so I'm confused by these conflicting
statements.  Just asking...
>  :-)
>
> Jason Adcock
> Blacksburg, VA
> ICQ: 5860857
> E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
> Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 20:28:53 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: open element air cleaner

Igor,
cars always run better when girl friend is present.
Lou

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 20:31:09 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: open element air cleaner

A well designed air cleaner will smooth and straighten out the flow of
air into the carb and let it flow more air due to less turbulence.  If you
check out Barry Grant's carbs thier full race ones have fully milled
transitions into the venturi's which do the same thing without the air
cleaner.  K&N has a stub stack that is supposed to do the same thing
but you also have to realize that different carbs have different flow
characteristics and will react differently to the same air cleaner.  But,
yes, a motor can make more power with a an air cleaner than without
but that doesn't mean that it holds true to every situation/carb.  I also
remember seeing a test that a clutch fan makes more power than no
fan at all but also they only tested that on one motor.  Different engines
like different things and in the quest for more power there are few rules
that don't have exceptions.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net

>More power without the air filter?  I've heard conflicting stories about
this, including a
>statement from Car Craft on page 87 of the Nov. 98 issue, "Invalidating
popular beliefs, the engine
>made about 3.9 more hp with the air-cleaner setup in place."  They ran a
600-horse Chevy motor with
>and without a 14" open element K&N air-cleaner assembly and they're saying
that it made more power
>with the filter installed.
>
>I have *no* racing experience, so I'm confused by these conflicting
statements.  Just asking...
> :-)
>
>Jason Adcock
>Blacksburg, VA
>ICQ: 5860857
>E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
>Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 21:34:29 EST
From: SHELTERMEN@aol.com
Subject: Re: Exhaust Conversion.

Have you read the previous posts regarding flowmaster et.al.?  Where is this
muffler shop?  I wish someone in my area would install duals for that price.
Good deal!!!
Tim
'68 Delmont
'76 Cutlass Street Stock

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 19:44:24 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 307 build-up

>Get a cam for the '9' motors, or maybe one with slightly larger lift.  Y
cam is .400" lift (int.
>and exh.) and the 9 is .440" lift (int. and exh.).  If you want to keep the
computer, you probably
>shouldn't put in anything more than a .450" lift.


Don't have a computer and don't need one.  I also don't need emissions.  The
reason why I want to use the cam I have (272-280AD, .448/.472 lift) is cause
I already have it.  The cam will fit the 307, but as you pointed out the
lifters may not.  No problem, just put new lifters.  I need to buy a new cam
for the 455 anyway, so don't want to waste this one.  As for the
compression, I want about 9.5 cause I can still use pump fuel and because I
figure it would help the 307 some.  Was not the compression the biggest
problem for the 307 (other then cam and lousy rear gear combos).  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 20:50:47 -0600
From: Shang <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Oldsmobile Restoration Resource

Someone was asking about this book last night and I received mine today.
It is approximately 100 pages. I won't really know how good it is until
I check out some of the companies in it. It does however list a lot of
places I have never heard of before. It lists all the common ones, like
Year One, Fusick, and etc. Here are some examples of the places it
lists.



Mr Goat, Inc.  - Billions and Trillions of GM parts from the good ole
boys in Tulsa - (918)493-1966 OK

Berejik Performance - Parts for GM A bodies, specializing in Cutlass/442
Huge NOS/Repro/Used Inventory - (617)444-4797 MA

Eric's Towing & Classic Cutlass Parts - Parting out tons of mostly
pre-72 Cutlasses. Lots of parts in perfect condition. NOS Fenders.
(941)365-3023 FL

Hall's Olds Salvage - Parting out almost 2000 Oldsmobiles. Lots of new
parts. Satisfaction guaranteed. (913)924-3746 KS


These are just of few of many places listed. Perhaps some list members
could do some checking at these places and see what all they have.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 21:51:40 EST
From: RPTW32@aol.com
Subject: unsubscribe oldsmobile

unsubscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 21:54:16 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: 307 build-up

On Monday, October 26, 1998 9:44 PM, Igor T. '81 455DRB [SMTP:igor455@home.com]
wrote: > > Don't have a computer and don't need one.  I also don't need
emissions.  The > reason why I want to use the cam I have (272-280AD, .448/.472
lift) is cause > I already have it.

That makes sense.  That cam isn't too radical, either, so you should be fine
with it.

> compression, I want about 9.5 cause I can still use pump fuel and because I
> figure it would help the 307 some.  Was not the compression the biggest
> problem for the 307 (other then cam and lousy rear gear combos).  Thanks.

I don't know about this one...perhaps some other folks could enlighten us.  The
stock 307 came with 8.5:1 compression, as stated in the 1984 service manual.
That's not all that low.  But yeah, the cam isn't very stout.  .400" lift isn't
too much, your .448/.472 would certainly wake it up a bit.
 Throw on a high performance manifold (such as one from Edelbrock) and a nice
carburetor and distributor, perhaps with MSD ignition or similar, and rebuild
the top end and you should have a fairly strong 307.  Port the heads and
~maybe~ mill them and throw some 3.42's or similar and you should have a nice
strong Olds small block in a fast Nova!

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 21:57:10 -0500
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: FS: 68-75+ Olds Parts

Corey

        I just E-mailed you about the rear for your car. I have some 64 parts
but they are hard to find.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts


At 11:24 PM 10/25/98 , you wrote:
>Hello fellow Olds owner.... I have a 64 F-85 Cutlas in which i could
>probably use a lot of the parts in which you have... PLEASE e-mail me
>when you can.....I would greatly appreciate any help you can give.....
>THANK YOU in advance!!!!!!!!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Received: from mailsorter-101.iap.bryant.webtv.net
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>
>                                          C&M Classic Parts
>                       1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
>                                (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
>
><<mailto:chermac@exis.net>chermac@exis.net>
>                                               OCA# 24275
>
>Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm,  Sat 9:00 am - 3:00 pm,  Sunday Closed
>*We accept all major Credit Cards. VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and Discover.*
>
>                                         GM Restoration Parts
> New arrival "Parts"
>"G" body
>81-88 Fenders (mint)  $275.00 pr
>81-86 Front Header Panel (complete)  $175.00
>81-8? Hood  $50.00
>81-8? Moonroof (complete, works great)  $150.00
>81-88 Gauge Package  (nice)  $45.00
>81-88 Front Bumper (nice)  $100.00
>81-88 Rear Bumper (nice)  $100.00
>81-88 Dash Pad (mint)  $125.00
>"A" Body
>70 W-27 Rear End (SZ code 3.91:1, drum to drum, the real deal)  $2500.00
>70 OAI Hood (nice, not perfect)  $725.00
>69-72 Bench Head Rests (gold or black)  $30.00 pr
>70-72 SSI Wheels (4) $200.00 set
>70-74 SSII/III Wheels (5)  $250.00 set
>68 Cutlass/442 Front Bumper (nice w 2 small dings)  $125.00
>68 442 Rear Bumper (very nice) $250.00
>69 Cutlass, H/O, 442 Dash Woodgrain (mint orig)  $30.00
>69 Cutlass/442 Conv trunk lid (mint)  $150.00
>70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (mint)  $90.00
>70-72 Floor Console (regular auto, black, no cracks, complete)  $150.00
>70 442/SX Cutout Rear Bumper (nice rechrome, not perfect)  $275.00
>70 W-30 Intake (Early w/ Oldsmobile W-455) date code 11/13/69  $575.00
>70-73 SSII Wheels (4, off 72 H/O with orig paint.) $200.00 set
>70-75 Sport Steering Wheel (mint wheel lots of grain, black, with hub and
>center)  $225.00
>83-84 Hurst Olds Lightning Rod shifter assm (no cable, nice)  $280.00
>307-403 Edelbrock Performer Intake (nice)  $120.00
>71 Cutlass "S" Grilles (nice used)  $100.00 pr
>69-72 Seat Backs & Lower Sides (nice orig, black or tan)  $100.00 set
>
>New Repro Parts:
>70-72 Dash Chrome Bead (new)  $58.00 ea
>67-70 Turn Signal Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea
>67-70 Tilt Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea
>68-72 License Plate Bracket (Repro)  $26.50
>68-70 W-31 Cam Kits (w/lifters & lube)  $132.00
>68-72 1/4 Glass Chrome Moldings (Repro)  $92.00 pr
>69-72 Rear Spoiler (3 piece repro)  $255.00
>70-72 Hood Pin Kits (NEW, original supplier, complete) $115.00
>71or72 442 Grille Numeral Sets (repro, either year)  $34.00 set
>71-72 442 Hood Emblem (repro, Non OAI) $20.00
>
>New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts 1964-1972 Olds/Cutlass/442
>68 (N.O.S.) Cutlass/442 Turn Signal Lens (front, 2 prs)  $35.00 pr
>68-72 W-30 Stick Cam .475 lift/ 328 dur. (N.O.S. in box)  $275.00
>68-72+ TH Torque Converter Cover (Plastic, N.O.S.)  $36.00 ea
>66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
>68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
>68-7? Under Hood Light kits (N.O.S.)  $40.00 ea
>69-72 442 Trunk Numeral Sets (N.O.S.) $50.00 set
>69-70 442 Hood Numeral Sets  (N.O.S.) $50.00 set
>69-72 442 Fender Numeral Sets (N.O.S.) $38.00 set
>70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
>70-72 OAI Air Cleaner Springs (N.O.S)  $5.00 ea
>70-72 Hurst Dual Gate Shifter Cable (N.O.S.)  $55.00
>72 (N.O.S.) Cutlass Supreme, H/O LH grille $50.00
>71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr
>71-72 Front Grille Plastics (N.O.S)  $35.00 ea
>72 Cutlass Supreme & Hurst/Olds Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr
>73-75 (N.O.S.) Cutlass "S", 442,  H/O RH Qtr Panel  $350.00
>75-77 (N.O.S.) Cutlass Supreme Header Panel  $150.00
>76-77 (N.O.S.) 442 Cutlass "S" Header Panel  $225.00
>73-77 Cutlass/442/Hurst Wiper Switch (N.O.S.)  $22.00
>
>USED PARTS:
>68 Cutlass/442
>68 442 Air Cleaner Heat tube assm (2 pieces)  $30.00
>68-69 442 Glove Box Door (black)  $18.00
>68-69 LH Plastic Inner Fender (w/black washer bottle)  $65.00
>68-69 442/W-30 400 Intake Manifold  $50.00
>68 Cutlass/442 Backup Lens (nice)  $22.00 pr
>68 Trunk Vinyl Top Molding & Plate  $15.00
>68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
>68 Cutlass Rear Bumper (core)  $75.00
>68-69 14x6 SSII Wheels (set of 5)  $200.00
>68 AM Radio  $25.00
>68-70 Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set
>68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00
>68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $25.00 ea
>68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea
>68-72 B-Pillar Molding Sets (black, mint) $27.50 pr
>
>69 Cutlass/442
>68-69 442 Glove Box Door (black)  $18.00
>68-69 LH Plastic Inner Fender (w/black washer bottle)  $65.00
>69 Front Bumper (no pits, bent from tow truck)  $85.00
>69 Hood Tongue $20.00
>68-69 442/W-30 400 Intake Manifold  $50.00
>69 Turn Signal Lens (nice)  $25.00 pr
>69 Front Grille Center Filler (between grilles)  $8.00
>69 Full Hubcaps (nice)  $35.00 set
>68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
>69 Cutlass RH Grille (nice, used)  $40.00
>69 Radiator Core Support 3 Row (mint, no rust holes)  $150.00
>69-72 Hood Hinges  $40.00 pr
>69-70 "S" Hood Louver Chrome  $25.00 pr
>69-70 "S" Hood Louver Moldiings  $25.00 pr
>68-72 Windshield Molding Sets  $45.00 set
>69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
>69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $55.00 ea
>69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $25.00 ea
>
>70 Cutlass/442
>70 Hood Tongue $40.00
>70 Front Bumper (core)  $85.00
>70 Fender Eybrows (nice, no pits)  $45.00 pr
>70 RH Rally 350 grille (repaired, nice)  $75.00
>70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
>70 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr
>70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (excellent)  $115.00
>70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
>70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea
>70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00
>69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00
>70 "S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr
>70 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $90.00
>70-72 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
>70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens (restored)  $17.00 ea
>70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens (restored) $23.00 ea
>
>71 Cutlass/442
>70-71 Cutlass Supreme Side Marker Lights (mint)  $70.00 set
>71 LH Cutlass Supreme Grille (nice)  $85.00
>70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 pr
>71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
>71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
>70-72 C/S LH/RH Side Glass  $25.00 ea
>71 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr
>
>72 Cutlass/442
>70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 pr
>71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
>72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00
>72 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr
>72 Tail Light Lens  $13.00 ea
>
>73 and Newer and Big Car Parts:
>Late 73-74 Olds HEI distributors (non cumputer, w/cap and coil)  $45.00 ea
>73-75 442 Console and Shifter (Maroon)  $120.00
>73-77 Omega Floor Shift Tilt  $65.00
>75 Omega Front Fenders (very nice pair)  $180.00 pr
>75 Omega Bucket Seats (nice, maroon cloth)  $85.00 pr
>72 Delta 88 Qtr End caps  $25.00 pr
>72 Delta 88/ Ninety Eight Owners Manual (nice) $5.00
>
>New reproduction parts:
>Convertible Top Boots (Correct Grains for each different year)  $89.00ea
>64  Black, Red, Lt. Blue, Fawn, Saddle, Turqoise, White
>65  Same as 64
>66-67 Black, Red, Light Blue, Med. Blue, Bronze, Turqoise, White, Gold
>68-72 Black, Red, Parchment, Lt. Blue, Teal Blue, Green Gold, Gold, Pearl,
>Dk Blue, Dk. Green, Lt. Green, Lt. Saddle, Dk Saddle, Olive Green, Royal
>Blue, White, Sandalwood,
>
>Molded Carpet Sets  $95.00
>64-67 - (Black, Red, Med. Blue, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Maroon)
>68-72 - (Black, Red, Maroon, Turqoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Med. Blue, Dk. Green,
>Green Gold, Lt. Green, Teal Blue, Saddle, Sandalwood)
>73-77 - (Same as 68-72 except Green Gold)
>
>Door Panels  64-72  $265.00 for a set of all 4
>
>Seat Covers  64-72  $335.00 front and rear sets any year or color.
>
>Vinyl Dash Overlays (makes your wood dash areas look like carbon fiber)
>$50.00 set
>
>Lifetime Guarantee on all correct bead window felts  $92.00 set (inner &
outer)
>66-67 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (correct bead type)
>68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (not Supreme Coupes, correct bead)
>68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv (Outers only, correct bead)  $50.00
>
>Replacement Window Felts (Flat type)  $60.00 set (inner & outer)
>64-72 Cutlass/442 (state year and model)
>
>Glove Box Liners
>64-67 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
>68-69 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
>70-72 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
>
>Qrt Seals
>70-72 Cutlass Supreme & Conv Qtr End seals  $13.00 pr
>
>Hood Insulation
>64-65 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
>66 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
>67 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
>68-70 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner (wclips)  $18.00
>70-72 Cutlass Supreme Hood Liner (w/clips)  $18.00
>73-77 Cutlass $28.00
>
>Liner Clips
>Round Clips  $1.00 ea
>Square Clips  $1.00 ea
>
>A-Arm Shields
>68-72 Upper A-Arm dust shields  $14.99 pr
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 22:02:15 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Restoration Resource - NOT!

In a message dated 98-10-26 21:55:05 EST, you write:

<< Hall's Olds Salvage - Parting out almost 2000 Oldsmobiles. Lots of new
 parts. Satisfaction guaranteed. (913)924-3746 KS  >>

Regrettably, this establishment went out of existence over a year ago.

K

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 22:15:52 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Re: fs:  parts

Have anything in the way of consoles or sport steering wheels??

At 06:58 PM 10/26/98 EST, you wrote:
>the car is a 1970 cutlass suprime ht.  i have the whole car still but am
>limited to what i can ship out.  it would be easier for me to goto a swap meet
>and sell parts.  that's what i am doing with most the big(heavy) parts.  e-
>mail me with requests.  i'll try to give you guys the parts for as cheap as i
>can.  i already sold the engine and tranny.  this means i broke even and
>anything extra i sell is extra profit for me.  i also have many parts from a
>70 442 conv.  the car was fully restored and i sorta obtained the left over
>and unused parts.
>
>mikeytvb@aol.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 22:24:15 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Air cleaners, carbs, flowmasters, et. al.(soapbox)

Everyone,

Sorry for wasting bandwidth here, but either because I am tired, or in a
funky mood, or whatever, I'm getting a bit disturbed about the quality
of some of the posts lately.  I enjoy good banter about a subject, and
whether someone disagrees or not, we all will probably learn something.

However, lately it seems like either some people are is on each other's
case about something,  useless threads that don't contribute much to the
list knowledge, dead-horse beating, and a sundry of other things that
just seem irritating.  Or it just could be that I'm suffering from PMS.

Either way, I seem to use the delete button more in the past few days
than I have in the past.  It seems that threads deteriorate quickly into
something that wasn't even initiated by the original thread.  Which, is
ok mostly, but if the subject changes, so should the subject line.

EVERYONE on this list has something to contribute, or the potential to
contribute, and participation is encouraged.  But let us please try to
use a bit more forethought in posting what we want to say.  Oldsmobile
lovers as a whole are a very passionate about their cars, and no one
likes to feel like they've been dissed or missed on a question or a
comment.  Keeping things a little bit lighter and more on target can
only benefit.  Don't get me wrong.  Different views are vital in
maintaining healthy communication.  We're all human, (mostly) and we are
not all programmed to think the same.  But it seems that some of the
time, list etiquette sometimes gets tossed aside when posting.

I'll reiterate some of the things that most of the list members sort of
inferred what they expect to see (or NOT see).  In no particular order:

No flames.
No "me too" or simialr postings.
Responding to the individual's personal e-mail address to "bicker".
Post your Olds questions, regardless of others' opinions.
Answering questions others may have that you have knowledge on.
Information on upcoming events, where to get good deals, etc.
Keeping things Olds related (mostly).
For God's sake, SNIP long posts down when replying.  Don't repost the
entire message AGAIN, unless that's the only way to make sense of the
response.
Be considerate of others.
Have a good time learning and sharing knowledge, Olds stories, tech
stuff.
Try to post only things that you think could benefit all the members of
the list.
No personal replies to the list, unless you can't seem to "find" that
person's personal e-mail.

And there's more, but this is just a sample.  I know I've been guilty of
bending the "rules" myself from time to time, so I'm not throwing stones
at anyone in particular.

If anyone here wants to flame me personally for posting this, then go
ahead. hurstolds@xtalwind.net I'm still going to sleep tonight, and I'll
still have my delete button handy.

Sorry, Greg, I just felt this needed saying.
I also apologize for any inconvenience this post may have brought to
anyone.

Fin.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 22:31:30 EST
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: 403 heads..best?

What heads does the list recommend for a std 403 w/an alum intake man.?? It
has 4a's now.

Bernie
Driving to Pontiac, MI this weekend to get my 86,442. Any list members near
route 80??

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 21:37:37 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Conversion.

I would be wary of somebody installing the system with a torch and a coat
hangar.  Not very sanitary and might not flow all that good either.  You get
what you pay for with some hacks.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net



>Have you read the previous posts regarding flowmaster et.al.?  Where is
this
>muffler shop?  I wish someone in my area would install duals for that
price.
>Good deal!!!
>Tim
>'68 Delmont
>'76 Cutlass Street Stock
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 22:42:07 EST
From: SHELTERMEN@aol.com
Subject: Re: Air cleaners, carbs, flowmasters, et. al.(soapbox)

Could someone tell me how to "snip" my email.  I'm all for keeping it short.
Tim
'68 Delmont
'76 Cutlass Street Stock

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 21:51:44 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Snip

You just did.  (highlight and cut/delete the unimportant parts)


>Could someone tell me how to "snip" my email.  I'm all for keeping it
short.
>Tim
>'68 Delmont
>'76 Cutlass Street Stock
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 23:00:44 +0000
From: "Joe Gerschutz" <gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu>
Subject: B&M Transpak/Shift Kit

Salutations oldsmobilers. Does anyone out there use a B&M Transpak
shift kit? on a TH350?  How about a B&M Shift Improver Kit?  Do you
like it?  I realize these don't help ~much~ with performance but it
seems like it would be more fun to drive this way.  Do they hurt/help
a tranny in any way?  Thanks.

Joe
- -Pondering a shift kit

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 22:08:15 -0500
From: "Johnny Gage" <bladernr@roava.net>
Subject: Re: What do you think of the Alero?

Hmmmm  dunno...  i have seen a couple, adn still think they look like
college kids cars...  IMHO, but then again, my tastes lean towards the
Intrigue...  jsut love the commercials...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 23:18:13 +0000
From: "Joe Gerschutz" <gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu>
Subject: Aftermarket Cams

I've never replaced a camshaft before, and I would like to know about
aftermarket cams.  First of all if a have a 350 out of a 442, now
this doesn't mean it has a slightly modified cam already does it?
Will I need (or just strongly recommended) to replace any other
valvetrain components?  Lifters? Springs? Pushrods? I'm talking about
a mild street cam.  Will I need anything
turned/balanced/machined/etc?  Is it a relatively easy procedure?
How about performance gains.  What can I expect off a stock 77 350?
Any favorite brands you guys have out there?
	I know thats a lot of questions, but it seems many people have
aftermarket cams, and they don't seem too expensive.  Thanks in
advance.

Joe



- --------------------------------------------------
- ---Joe Gerschutz------------------------------
- ---University of Dayton----------------------
- ---gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu--------
- --------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 23:19:21 EST
From: Joeytada@aol.com
Subject: Re: wetherstrip kit

I got a set for an '83 at the chevy dealer or The Parts Place has them.  Hope
this helps.

Keith

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 00:04:02 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: B&M Transpak/Shift Kit

Joe Gerschutz wrote:
>
> Salutations oldsmobilers. Does anyone out there use a B&M Transpak
> shift kit? on a TH350?  How about a B&M Shift Improver Kit?  Do you
> like it?  I realize these don't help ~much~ with performance but it
> seems like it would be more fun to drive this way.  Do they hurt/help
> a tranny in any way?  Thanks.
>
> Joe
> -Pondering a shift kit

I've got the Transpak in mine. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to
drive it since. But when I do, I'll let you know.

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 20:52:34 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Air cleaners, carbs, flowmasters, et. al.(soapbox)

At 10:24 PM 10/26/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Everyone,
>
>Sorry for wasting bandwidth here, but either because I am tired, or in a
>funky mood, or whatever, I'm getting a bit disturbed about the quality
>of some of the posts lately.  I enjoy good banter about a subject, and
>whether someone disagrees or not, we all will probably learn something.

Nothing personal, but there have also been for to many posting lately about
list traffic, how to post, what to post etc. These also have NOTHING to do
with Oldsmobiles.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 20:59:49 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: 403 heads..best?

At 10:31 PM 10/26/98 -0500, you wrote:
>What heads does the list recommend for a std 403 w/an alum intake man.?? It
>has 4a's now.
>

  The best are 5's (but they are getting pretty hard to find), next would be
the #7 and #7A (subscript A). With a 403 even #8 heads will give you
smaller chambers than the 4A heads you have now, 79cc vs 83.
#8 are also very common and are ready to run unleaded.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 22:03:08 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Aftermarket Cams (LONG!)

Joe,

I have the Comp Cams 268H in my 68 442 w/ 400. I love it. As far as
ease... It is a snap even in the car! I had to remove my radiator, front
plate (water pump, crank pully, timing chain cover) and you know what you
do then? Just pull off the timing chain remove the distributor and pull
the cam out being careful not to force it as you may disturb the cam
bearings. Oh, one other thing... This is very important too... Remove your
intake and take out your lifters. When replacing the cam it is recommended
and almost pertinant in most situations to replace the lifters and timing
chain at the same time. use the cam lube that should come with the new cam
and just slide it in like you removed the old one. The easy trick for this
if you don't have the instilation handle is to use the old cam sproket for
the timing chain as your handle. Worked good for me. Once the cam is
installed this is the hard part. Degreeing the cam. You could just line up
the marks, but that isn't always the most powerful setting or efficient
setting of the cam. The parts for degreeing the cam are more expensive
than the cam itself if you don't have access to them already. You may look
at renting them if you know where to find a place that will rent. A Degree
wheel, dial guage, pointer, and a piece of stock metal to fit into the
bore of the lifter to aid in measuring lift and finding the lobes of the
cam. if you buy the kit from summit or other catalogs you should get a
video with it. If you are interested I have the wheel, video, guage W/
magnetic mount and a piece of stock that I used and I'd be willing to part
with it for a reasonable price. Only been used once! Once the cam is
degreed with the specs of the card or to  your personal liking, just
reverse the process and button up the engine then goto the break-in
proceedures!

good luck, Ben


I've never replaced a camshaft before, and I would like to know about

> aftermarket cams.  First of all if a have a 350 out of a 442, now
> this doesn't mean it has a slightly modified cam already does it?
> Will I need (or just strongly recommended) to replace any other
> valvetrain components?  Lifters? Springs? Pushrods? I'm talking about
> a mild street cam.  Will I need anything
> turned/balanced/machined/etc?  Is it a relatively easy procedure?
> How about performance gains.  What can I expect off a stock 77 350?
> Any favorite brands you guys have out there?
>         I know thats a lot of questions, but it seems many people have
> aftermarket cams, and they don't seem too expensive.  Thanks in
> advance.
>
> Joe
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> ---Joe Gerschutz------------------------------
> ---University of Dayton----------------------
> ---gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu--------
> --------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 23:04:36 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: B&M Transpak/Shift Kit

If I remember right, the Transpak refers to a complete rebuild kit that
also includes a shift kit while the Shift Improver Kit you just have to drop
the pan and valve body.  I have used both on TH350's and they let you
decide how firm the shift is and you can even go fully manual.  Works
good but if you have an old trans it might be a wise idea to rebuild it
before you hop it up just so it will be better able to handle the added
strain.  Your best performance will come with a looser (higher stall)
converter but they both add heat so to bulletproof it you might want to
look into a trans cooler.  If you get one route the lines from the trans to
the rad and from the rad to the cooler and then back to the trans.  That
way the fluid will be cool while your moving, but if your stuck in traffic,
the
rad will keep the fluid from overheating due to lack of airflow.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net

Salutations oldsmobilers. Does anyone out there use a B&M Transpak
shift kit? on a TH350?  How about a B&M Shift Improver Kit?  Do you
like it?  I realize these don't help ~much~ with performance but it
seems like it would be more fun to drive this way.  Do they hurt/help
a tranny in any way?  Thanks.

Joe
- -Pondering a shift kit

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 00:16:06 +0000
From: "Joe Gerschutz" <gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu>
Subject: Cam Selection Software

I don't know if everyone but me knew this already, but on the
Comp Cams home page (www.compcams.com) there is a program called
Camquest downloadable for free.  It is a cam selection program, where
you enter in info on your car, such as displacement, gear ratio,
weight, make, stall convertor, intake, exhaust, etc. and it spits out
a cam profile suited to your needs (oem, towing, economy, mild perf,
race, etc.).  It also has a utilities section, where you can enter
data and it calculates stuff such as compression ratio, cyl. volume,
air flow, displac., ETs, carb size, cam timing, etc.  Might make some
of your guys' work easier than having to break out the pencil and
paper.
	Just thought some of you guys might get a kick out of the program.
Joe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 21:14:54 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 403 heads..best?

You will have to enlarge the head bolt holes on non 403 head to fit on a
403!

>From oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca Mon Oct 26 21:07:53 1998
>Received: by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca id <33511-4509>; Tue, 27 Oct 1998
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>Date:	Mon, 26 Oct 1998 20:59:49 -0800
>To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>From:	Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
>Subject: Re: 403 heads..best?
>In-Reply-To: <8604fc5e.36353e92@aol.com>
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>
>At 10:31 PM 10/26/98 -0500, you wrote:
>>What heads does the list recommend for a std 403 w/an alum intake
man.?? It
>>has 4a's now.
>>
>
>  The best are 5's (but they are getting pretty hard to find), next
would be
>the #7 and #7A (subscript A). With a 403 even #8 heads will give you
>smaller chambers than the 4A heads you have now, 79cc vs 83.
>#8 are also very common and are ready to run unleaded.
>
>
>


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 21:19:39 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Conversion.

At 09:37 PM 10/26/98 -0600, you wrote:
>I would be wary of somebody installing the system with a torch and a coat
>hangar.  Not very sanitary and might not flow all that good either.  You get
>what you pay for with some hacks.

when used on soft mild steel (exhaust) coat hangers puddle rather well.

Coat hangers actually have a reputation they dont deserve when used with O/A
welding. Be careful about assuming that coat hanger wire is crappy.Hanger
machines areVERY FUSSY about the drawn wire they use.
Coat hanger material is generally very low carbon with little or noalloy.
It generally ranges around 45 KSI. Welding filler metal isa more regulated
material; it generally has a tensile strength of 60KSI.

but this doesn't matter when you consider the poor steel that they make
exhaust
pipe out off :)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 21:21:54 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Open Air Cleaners

The larger the filter the larger the area for air to enter.


>
>Does the diameter of an open air cleaner effect any change of any kind
? Or is
>the diameter of the cleaner a visual, appearance choice ?
>
>


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 21:21:33 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: 403 heads..best?

At 09:14 PM 10/26/98 -0800, you wrote:
>You will have to enlarge the head bolt holes on non 403 head to fit on a
>403!

yup. luckily this is easy and cheap :)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 23:27:01 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Aftermarket Cams

The late 70's motors weren't real fire breathers so don't expect too
much stock.  Before you start worrying about the cam make sure
you have a good carb/intake and header/exhaust combo and then
worry about the cam.  As far as manufacturer any of the big names
can dial you in on what you want as far as specs through thier tech
lines and just call around until you find one that gives you warm
fuzzys.  ALWAYS replace lifters when you put in a new cam, otherwise
you'll wipe out the cam.  You can put new lifters on an old cam but not
the other way around.  You should at least have the springs tested
and depending on the cam get stiffer ones.  Check the pushrods for
straightness (roll them on a piece of flat glass) and make sure the
centers are free of crud.  Check all wear surfaces on the pushrods,
rockers, and pivots to make sure they are smooth (no pits, burrs, or
excessive wear).  The turned/balanced issue comes in when you start
dealing with the bottom end (pistons,  rods, crank).  If all you want is
a mild street cam that should be all you need.  Be prepared to pull the
intake, water pump, timing cover, timing chain (go ahead and replace
it while you have the chance), and balancer.  If its in the car add the
radiator too.  Performance gains depend on what your total combo
looks like, but I would say your limiting factor will be the compression
ration which is about 8.5:1 and the heads.  W/a good intake and
exhaust with a mild cam you might get 270 - 300 hp if the short block
is in good shape but figure on 250 and any more is free!  If you have
more questions feel free to e-mail me.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
68 Supreme 350 2V stock
72 "S" 350/450 hp

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 21:28:37 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: carburator

THANK YOU!!  I just didn't want to be rude.

>
>I hate to be a party pooper, but I have waded through the past 25 or so
posts by
>this guy and I just want to know..."is this guy for real..???"  First
day on the
>list and he asks questions my 14 yr old daughter would know the answers
too..!!
>(Example below) Come on Frank...Limit your post and replies until
someone
> has time to answer the first ones you posted...!!!
> Rome (or Olds)  was not built in a day.!!!!
>
>Mike..............................
>
>
>
>From:          "Frank Montero" <parc@erols.com>
>
>QUESTION:
>    How can you tell the difference between a 4 barrel carb and a 2
barrel
>carb?
>
>
>


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 21:33:16 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 1987 olds cutlass engine buid up

No, not that I know of at least.

>Jason,
>You assoc. with Shreves' engines in St. Lou?
>Lou
>----------
>> From: jason shreve <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: 1987 olds cutlass engine buid up
>> Date: Monday, October 26, 1998 12:02 PM
>
>


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 23:40:32 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Conversion.

The point I was trying to make is that I don't think I've every seen a torch
and
coat hangar job that looked pretty.  Maybe its just me but a mig weld looks
a lot better and this is my baby were talking about.  Also, I've seen a lot
of
quicky exhaust places do some horrible (90 degree angles, butt welded)
things with exhaust pipe.  To me it's like settling for tailpipes with
crinkle
bends (makes my skin crawl just thinking about it)

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net

>I would be wary of somebody installing the system with a torch and a coat
>hangar. Not very sanitary and might not flow all that good either. You get
>what you pay for with some hacks.

when used on soft mild steel (exhaust) coat hangers puddle rather well.

Coat hangers actually have a reputation they dont deserve when used with O/A
welding. Be careful about assuming that coat hanger wire is crappy.Hanger
machines areVERY FUSSY about the drawn wire they use.
Coat hanger material is generally very low carbon with little or noalloy.
It generally ranges around 45 KSI. Welding filler metal isa more regulated
material; it generally has a tensile strength of 60KSI.

but this doesn't matter when you consider the poor steel that they make
exhaust
pipe out off :)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 23:46:23 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: B&M Transpak/Shift Kit

They firmer and quicker a trans shifts, the longer life it will have. When
a trans goes into the gear slowly it grinds on the clutches more than when
it goes in quickly. You will feel the shift more but the trans will love
you for it. The B&M kit is good, just have someone who knows what they are
doing install it.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Joe Gerschutz <gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: B&M Transpak/Shift Kit
> Date: Monday, October 26, 1998 5:00 PM
>
> Salutations oldsmobilers. Does anyone out there use a B&M Transpak
> shift kit? on a TH350?  How about a B&M Shift Improver Kit?  Do you
> like it?  I realize these don't help ~much~ with performance but it
> seems like it would be more fun to drive this way.  Do they hurt/help
> a tranny in any way?  Thanks.
>
> Joe
> -Pondering a shift kit

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1574
*********************************
