Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1569


oldsmobile-digest     Saturday, October 24 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1569



Re: Can someone help me?
RE: Can someone help me?
Re: Can someone help me?
remove list
Re: Can someone help me?
How To Make a List Admin Cranky (was: Re: Can someone help me?)
Re: Can someone help me?
1957  98 Holiday Sedan
Re: testing non-thermal fan clutch
Main Bearings:Normal Wear?
Re: Oldsmobile Screen Saver
455 Motor Mounts 4sale
Re: Can I make a 455 out of a G block 400?
King of Street 455
Re: PERFORMANCE
64 olds super 88
UNBOUNCE: 1957  98 Holiday Sedan
Time changes tonight..!!
Do you have an answer to this question?
Re: Can someone help me?
Re: Daytona under the lights, 8:00
Re: Heating/AC
Re: Best body filler choices
Re: Heating/AC
Confession Re: Radio Dial Lights
Re: Can I make a 455 out of a G block 400?
Re: Heating/AC
Re: Confession Re: Radio Dial Lights
Re: Rear axle compatibility.
olds stuff
Re: King of Street 455
Re: Can I make a 455 out of a G block 400?
RE: olds stuff
Re: 1964 F-85
Re: 64 olds super 88
Forged Cranks (was: 1964 F-85)
Safety Reminder (Was Re: Time changes tonight..!!)
Re: Can I make a 455 out of a G block 400?
Re: Safety Reminder (Was Re: Time changes tonight..!!)
Re: Do you have an answer to this question?
Re: Best body filler choices
Re: Can someone help me?
Heating/AC revisited
Re: Can I make a 455 out of a G block 400?
Re: Heating/AC revisited

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 20:55:15 -0400
From: "L.TRUAX" <tabby@cardina.net>
Subject: Re: Can someone help me?

HI Ed, Good luck! i've been trying to get off the list for a long time.
please let me know if you make it!!.  Thanks Leroy
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ed Cline <justaskus@sotelectronics.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, October 23, 1998 8:05 PM
Subject: Can someone help me?


>I have been trying to get off this list.  Can someone help me and point
>me in the right direction?
>
>Thanks.
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 21:03:21 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: Can someone help me?

On Friday, October 23, 1998 8:55 PM, L.TRUAX [SMTP:tabby@cardina.net] wrote:
> HI Ed, Good luck! i've been trying to get off the list for a long time.
> please let me know if you make it!!.  Thanks Leroy

For the folks trying to get off the list, please read the introductory message
that m@jordomo sent you when you first subscribed, you know, the one that told
you to keep it in case you wanted to leave the list?

Thanks!  (with an Olds big block's worth of sarcasm attached)   :-)

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 21:10:00 -0400
From: "L.TRUAX" <tabby@cardina.net>
Subject: Re: Can someone help me?

Hi Jason, I lost the list had trouble with my internet mail.     Thanks
Leroy
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, October 23, 1998 9:04 PM
Subject: RE: Can someone help me?


>On Friday, October 23, 1998 8:55 PM, L.TRUAX [SMTP:tabby@cardina.net]
wrote:
>> HI Ed, Good luck! i've been trying to get off the list for a long time.
>> please let me know if you make it!!.  Thanks Leroy
>
>For the folks trying to get off the list, please read the introductory
message that m@jordomo sent
>you when you first subscribed, you know, the one that told you to keep it
in case you wanted to
>leave the list?
>
>Thanks!  (with an Olds big block's worth of sarcasm attached)   :-)
>
>Jason Adcock
>Blacksburg, VA
>ICQ: 5860857
>E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
>Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 18:43:31 -0700
From: mmborden@m9.sprynet.com
Subject: remove list

remove list

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 21:59:46 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Can someone help me?

L.TRUAX wrote:
>
> HI Ed, Good luck! i've been trying to get off the list for a long time.
> please let me know if you make it!!.  Thanks Leroy

Guys, guys. It is just as easy to get off the list as it is to get ON
it.  For a simplified way of exiting, go to the bottom of one of Charley
Buehner's posts and click on the last address at the bottom.  Scroll
down to the appropriate place and follow instructions.  Then you are
off.  OR if you will look to the instructions you got when you first
joined the Olds list it will also tell you how to get off the list.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 23:00:03 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: How To Make a List Admin Cranky (was: Re: Can someone help me?)

On Fri, 23 Oct 1998, L.TRUAX wrote:

> HI Ed, Good luck! i've been trying to get off the list for a long time.
> please let me know if you make it!!.  Thanks Leroy

Since good ole Leroy finally figured out how to get away from the list
after posting this, I guess it wasn't too hard. But I have to say reading
this really annoyed me. Look, even assuming you haven't a clue how to do
it, just let me know and I'll handle it. And I won't call you clueless
either. But please don't post tall tales on the list about the
non-existent problems you've had trying to get out of here.

Sorry for the grumpiness. Thanks.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 21:52:43 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Can someone help me?

L.TRUAX wrote:

> Hi Jason, I lost the list had trouble with my internet mail.     Thanks
> Leroy

        Okay, I'll do the honors.  To get off the list, send an e-mail to this
address:

majordomo@chebucto.ns.ca

        Leave the subject line blank and in the body of the message just type,
"unsubscribe oldsmobile"
(no quotation marks). This will get you off the list.  If you wish to
resubscribe at a later date, follow the exact same instructions, but type,
"subscribe oldsmobile" in the body of the message.
        This works perfectly.  I have to unsubscribe about every few weeks for
a few days because my job keeps me traveling, and I take myself off the list
when I go on a trip.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 22:16:09 -0400
From: "B Price" <wprice@shentel.net>
Subject: 1957  98 Holiday Sedan

Have a 57 98 Holiday Sedan that has been in my family since new.  Although
"Sapphire Mist" metallic blue normally came with a white stripe, this one
was ordered with a RED stripe over the objections of the saleman, and it
came from the factory that way, complete with body tag code for the red
stripe.
Do you have access to any production data that would tell me how many came
from the factory this way, or could you direct me to someone who might have
this information?
Thanks, Bill

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 20:46:45 -0600
From: "Fred Orcutt" <f_m_o@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: testing non-thermal fan clutch

Someone may know better, but if its a centrifugal clutch there's probably no
practical way to do it.  Even though its a few bucks, its a good idea to
invest in a new clutch considering what you've already put into the pump and
rad.  A new centrifugal fan clutch should cost less than a thermal (~$32
around here).  If the pump went bad there's a likelihood the clutch bearing
is shot too.  If the cooling system is apart it would be the ideal time to
change out the fan clutch, rather than do it later.

- -----Original Message-----
From: roger hitson <hitson@i1.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, October 23, 1998 12:53 PM
Subject: testing non-thermal fan clutch


|I have my cooling system apart & have just bought new water pump & radiator
|('68 S 350).  In the interest of trying to save a few bucks, would like to
|know if anyone can tell me a way to check non-thermal type fan clutch while
|it is off the car.
|
|thnx
|
|roger hitson
|

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 22:38:49 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Main Bearings:Normal Wear?

I was looking at a 455 motor that had about 2000 miles on it. WE dropped
the pan and took off a main cap. The bearing had a little streak of copper
showing on it. I believe this was caused by some particle that made its way
into the motor and caused it to scratch it. Is this OK? Would this be cause
for alarm for this guys 455?


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 20:43:01 -0700
From: Chris & Robin Miller <cya442@san.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Screen Saver

DROLDS350@aol.com wrote:

> Can somebody please send me the address for the Oldsmobile screen saver? I 
had
> it, and then it got lost. Can anybody h*lp?
> Thanks,
> Jim McKeague
> http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html

I have the file and will send you a copy if you like!  Once I finish my Web 
page
I will put a link to it on there.

- --
Chris Miller
San Diego, CA
mailto:cya442@san.rr.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 23:58:12 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: 455 Motor Mounts 4sale

I have a perfect set of 455 motor mounts for sale. They were used for less
than 2 months. They will fit 70-72 "A" body Cutlass/442. Can't tell the
difference between these and a new pair. The reason I am selling them is
that I am getting a pair of 350 mounts because the motor sat high in the
front(car was originally a 350 motor mount pad).

 $20.00 Including Shipping to anywhere in continental U.S.

E-Mail PRIVATELY
Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 23:21:13 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Can I make a 455 out of a G block 400?

Thanks Greg and Lou.

	Well, I guess it's time to talk to someone about new pistons and
getting it bored.

	Does anyone have a set of new .030 over 455 pistons they want to get
rid of cheap?


Greg Rollin wrote:
>
> The maximum factory recommended oversize on the 400
> is .060"  In order to fit standard 455 pistons, you
> would need to remove .255" from the bore.  That's
> just a bit more than a quarter of an inch.
> There is simply not enough material in the bore
> to remove that much.
>
>
> Greg Rollin
> Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
> 503-244-8249
> http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
> E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 01:08:20 -0500 (CDT)
From: blue442@webtv.net
Subject: King of Street 455

I intend to assemble a killer 455 powered sleeper using 3.08 gearing in
a stock bodied 442 with A/C and have no experience with this whatsoever.
I do, however have a very intense appreciation for this car and want to
do only the best for it. (I also have a 250hp nitrous kit) shhh!  I have
"C" casting heads and nodular crank.  What kind of rods do I need?  I am
about to purchase C&A unless I hear different from anyone out there.  I
really would feel better about doing this with someone else's
experienced insight.  I think a lot of Olds fans would have an interest
in this, but feel free to e-mail me privately in the interest of reduced
list traffic.  I will gladly forward any tech info to interested third
parties.
BTW-I have witnessed and driven a heavily used and abused Ch*vy dually,
1990 model equipped with a Gear Vendors overdrive unit and supercharged
502, (80 mph hits you in the face real fast) and the Gear Vendors piece
stood it's ground. This was pulling an extreme overload fron CA to TX,
over and over again at 80+ mph.  This too will one day be on my 442.
Best Regards,
Jeff Carter
Lubbock TX
blue442@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 01:40:04 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: PERFORMANCE

That depends on what you have now.  I (and my friends) always found that
modified exhaust system can make a huge difference over stock in both power
and economy.  Also, on that list is improved ignition system and a good
tune-up (with K&N filter)  Aside from exhaust, non of these mods will make
much of either, but they do work.  Igor.


igor455@home.com

Igor Todorovic, UofC, Calgary, Alberta
1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency 98 (307/2004r/propane)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 04:49:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: KINNEYLM@webtv.net (MIKE KINNEY)
Subject: 64 olds super 88

 my question is , is it best to fog the moter in te fall for winter
storage or should i wait till spring before i start it up? i have a 394
motor in a 64 olds super 88,   thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 08:23:14 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 1957  98 Holiday Sedan

Here's an interesting question with probably no known answer, but respond
to wprice@shentel.net if you can assist since he's not on the list.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"B Price" <wprice@shentel.net>
Subject: 1957  98 Holiday Sedan

Have a 57 98 Holiday Sedan that has been in my family since new.  Although
"Sapphire Mist" metallic blue normally came with a white stripe, this one
was ordered with a RED stripe over the objections of the saleman, and it
came from the factory that way, complete with body tag code for the red
stripe.
Do you have access to any production data that would tell me how many came
from the factory this way, or could you direct me to someone who might have
this information?
Thanks, Bill

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 08:15:55 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Time changes tonight..!!

Way off subject, but worth the bandwidth...A friendly reminder to one and all 
to
set your timepieces back one hour before going to bed tonight as daylight
saving time ends and standard time resumes..!! And to all, enjoy you extra hour
of snoozing........!!!


Michael..........................


"And the three men I admire most-
the Father, Son, and the Holy Ghost-
They caught the last train for the coast
The day the music died................"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 06:06:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Do you have an answer to this question?

Good morning all,

           I was wondering, I know it was popular in the 60's & 70's,
and I've seen some 78-80 models. But my quwstion is this, has anyone
ever seen an 81-87 Cutlass with a black interior,was it an option? I
know Clayton has a black vinyl interior, but I can't say I've ever
~even ~ heard of a 81-87 with one. Any input on this would be greatly
appreciated.

              Thanks in advance,



==
John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com
  ICQ # 16956740      Lithia Springs, Ga.
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 09:46:09 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Can someone help me?

In a message dated 10/23/98 7:05:40 PM EST, justaskus@sotelectronics.com
writes:

<< I have been trying to get off this list.  Can someone help me and point
 me in the right direction?

 >>
type the following exactly: unsubscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 10:10:17 EDT
From: SHELTERMEN@aol.com
Subject: Re: Daytona under the lights, 8:00

I've never understood the lack of media exposure.  Auto racing is THE number
one spectator sport in the U.S.  Daytona was THE largest nightime sporting
event in the world.  Let's see 250,000 people show up to the pro-bowlers tour
(which I see more on network sports than auto racing).  I just don't get it.
Tim

'68 Delmont
'76 Cutlass Street Stock (4 sale by the way)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 10:20:42 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Heating/AC

>I am trying to get my heater to work properly, but the levers that work the
>vents and the hot cold so not do the job they are supposed to do, I noticed
>a whole plate of vaccuum spaghetti under the dash hooked to these,
- ----------------
scary huh?
- ---------------
 >but they
>all seam to be intact, is there supposed to be a line running from the
>engine to the firewall, and where on the firewall is it supposed to go to?
- -----------------

Earliest Olds I've had was a 78, but....
An itty bitty hard plastic vacuum line comes from the lever control thingie,
thru the firewall (right side, near glove box) to a black spherical vacuum
storage tank under the hood. About the size of a softball. The inlet to it
is also the same kind of 1/8 inch hard plastic tubing and goes to manifold
vacuum, usually on or near the back of the carb.

That thin plastic vacuum hose tends to get brittle with age and crack.
Especially the connection from the manifold to the storage tank (engine heat
dries it out I think). Had it break off a few times - leaves you with no
control over heater vents, no defrost etc.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 10:39:01 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Best body filler choices

>Does anyone have a
>recommendation on the best body filler to use for smoothing out the
>rough areas within the weld? The guy at the body shop mentioned a
>waterproof green body filler.
>


Bondo still seems to be the goop of choice for that. As long as it's not
exposed to weather (gotta be enclosed within the repair).

But for final filling sanding scratches and pinholes, there's stuff called
"Iceing" - it's a 2 part material very much like thinned out Bondo. Doesn't
shrink like paint putty can. ~Excellent~ results, compatible with any paint
system. Of course $$ too.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 06:58:44 -0700
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Heating/AC

a black spherical vacuum
>storage tank under the hood. About the size of a softball. The inlet to it
>is also the same kind of 1/8 inch hard plastic tubing and goes to manifold
>vacuum, usually on or near the back of the carb.
>
>That thin plastic vacuum hose tends to get brittle with age and crack.
>Especially the connection from the manifold to the storage tank (engine
heat
>dries it out I think).

Never understood why they used this stuff for the manifold to storage tank
connection.  A piece of regular 5/32" vacuum line works fine as a
replacement.  The 1/8" plastic line has fittings on each end to simulate
5/32".

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 12:29:28 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Confession Re: Radio Dial Lights

You'll remember this topic; I thought they were LEDs but then was
convinced they were soldered-in "grain of wheat" bulbs. I went and found
those, bought a pair along with a soldering iron. As I'm poking around the
radio on the bench trying to figure out the best way to do the job I poke
the backside of one of the bulbs with a probe and it moves, then pops out.
Turns out the are #73 auto bulbs, sort of like a half-size #194. I took
them to a couple of parts places who never heard of them, but one found
them in a catalog and ordered in a couple. Five minutes after I got them
home they were in and I now have lights again in the radio for the sum of
$1.66, plus whatever it cost me for the now surplus grains of wheat. The
way I look at it, I needed a soldering iron anyway... ;-)

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 08:40:03 -0700
From: "Corey Day" <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Can I make a 455 out of a G block 400?

I saw this add on 442.com

Date Posted 10/16/1998 - '70 4-4-2 Parts: Correct 455 heavy duty cooling
water pump #404847 date code 128, rebuilt, mint - $80. Mallory Unilite 9000
distributor with Accel Supercoil - $75. Set of 8 Keith Black Hyper Eutectic
455 pistons, .040 over, 9.5:1, rods and caps attached, mint - $80. Non-tilt
floor shift steering column - $50. Floor shift speedometer - $20. Fuel
gauge - $10. AutoMeter Tachometer, fits nicely in stock tach location - $20.
Pair of non A/C kick panels with vents - $20. Set of front disk brake
spindles, calipers, backing plates, rotors - $80. Complete set of four
parking lamps - $60. Pair of reverse lamps with lenses - $20. Deck lid -
$40. Pair of hood hinges and springs - $20. Front bumper, core - $25. Rear
bumper with cutouts, core - $50. SS2 wheels - $25 each. Everything must go.
BradOtto@worldnet.att.net (209)521-0656 California
- -----Original Message-----
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, October 23, 1998 10:29 PM
Subject: Re: Can I make a 455 out of a G block 400?


>
>Thanks Greg and Lou.
>
> Well, I guess it's time to talk to someone about new pistons and
>getting it bored.
>
> Does anyone have a set of new .030 over 455 pistons they want to get
>rid of cheap?
>
>
>Greg Rollin wrote:
>>
>> The maximum factory recommended oversize on the 400
>> is .060"  In order to fit standard 455 pistons, you
>> would need to remove .255" from the bore.  That's
>> just a bit more than a quarter of an inch.
>> There is simply not enough material in the bore
>> to remove that much.
>>
>>
>> Greg Rollin
>> Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
>> 503-244-8249
>> http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
>> E-mail: supercars@transport.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 08:39:44 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Heating/AC

> Never understood why they used this stuff for the manifold to
> storage tank connection.

Most likely it's because the line must jump the gap between engine
and firewall (or wheel well), and they need something that (1) will
not sag in heat and touch something that will cause a fire, and (2)
will withstand a lot of vibration along its unsupported length. I'm
only guessing but I'd say that this goofy material was a better
choice for that area than the regular vacuum lines used elsewhere.
It's also frequently used to connect to in-line heater hose valves.

> A piece of regular 5/32" vacuum line works fine as a replacement.
> The 1/8" plastic line has fittings on each end to simulate 5/32".

Yup. Don't lose the little adaptors. Also notice that the two ports
on the vacuum reservoir/amplifier are not interchangeable and are
not the same diameter; one is an inlet from the engine and one is
the output to the HVAC controls. IIRC, the reservoir is like a big
one-way valve. The side that holds vacuum is the side that should
be connected to the HVAC; the side that doesn't is the inlet which
connects to the manifold.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 08:46:20 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Confession Re: Radio Dial Lights

> Turns out they are #73 auto bulbs, sort of like a half-size #194.
> I took them to a couple of parts places who never heard of them,
> but one found them in a catalog and ordered in a couple. Five
> minutes after I got them home they were in and I now have lights
> again in the radio for the sum of $1.66

Oh, you're _kiddin_ me... after all that fuss you made...  :-)
MoPar stereos use #73 for backlighting and BMWs use them all over
the place in the dash, but I don't remember ever seeing GM use
them. There are actually at least a couple different amperages
you can get; I think they're differentiated by the color of the
little insulator blob inside, since practically no one can read
the numbers stamped on the glass. (There usually _are_ numbers
stamped on the glass but you have to be as nearsighted as I am
to see them.  :-)

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 12:33:57 -0400
From: Jim Olson <jolson@remcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Rear axle compatibility.

Whoa! Before you put that 70 rear end in the 64, measure it!

I had a '64 Skylark and put a '69 Ch*velle rear end in it and it was a
couple inches wider. Didn't know that until I put my wide tires on it
and they wouldn't go under the low cut wheel openings...

Jim...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 09:57:26 -0700
From: "Bruce Camilli" <bcam@vel.net>
Subject: olds stuff

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BDFF34.B5C65C20
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

For all those interested, eBay on-line auctions has a ton of Olds =
related material up on auction. If you are interested got to =
www.ebay.com and at the top of their page click on search and search for =
oldsmobile, as of today(sat, 10/24) there are 282 related items up for =
auction. There is also a ton of other things you may find you want or =
need.

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BDFF34.B5C65C20
Content-Type: application/ms-tnef
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 12:12:58 -0500
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: King of Street 455

Your stock Olds rods should be more than enough for a street motor.
The nickel content in Olds parts is extremely high when compared to other
makes which lets you bore the cyls further than say, a sbc chevy.  The stock
Olds rods are forged and with high quality rod bolts will live a long happy
life.  The only time you would run into a problem is if you were wanting to
run
at high rpm (above 7k) for long periods.  Check out Mondello at
http://www.tcsn.net/mondello for info on building the motor.  They
specialize
in just Olds and have mucho experience.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net


- -----Original Message-----
From: blue442@webtv.net <blue442@webtv.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, October 24, 1998 1:09 AM
Subject: King of Street 455


I intend to assemble a killer 455 powered sleeper using 3.08 gearing in
a stock bodied 442 with A/C and have no experience with this whatsoever.
I do, however have a very intense appreciation for this car and want to
do only the best for it. (I also have a 250hp nitrous kit) shhh!  I have
"C" casting heads and nodular crank.  What kind of rods do I need?  I am
about to purchase C&A unless I hear different from anyone out there.  I
really would feel better about doing this with someone else's
experienced insight.  I think a lot of Olds fans would have an interest
in this, but feel free to e-mail me privately in the interest of reduced
list traffic.  I will gladly forward any tech info to interested third
parties.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 12:23:03 -0500
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Can I make a 455 out of a G block 400?

What the factory recommends and what can be done safely
are two different things.  Due to the higher nickel content in
thier iron and the normally thick cyl walls you can bore just
about any Olds motor more than you can just about any other
make.  Due to lack of specs and experience with 400's I
don't know if it can be done but on my 72 350 block I was
running forged .030 over pistons and dropped a valve.  I
couldn't find .040 or .060 over 350 pistons so I called Joe
Mondello and he told me I could use STD bore 455 pistons
and possibly even go .030 over with those if I had to later.
I didn't believe it at first but ended up doing it and talk about
a mean 350!

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net

- -----Original Message-----
From: Corey Day <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, October 24, 1998 10:37 AM
Subject: Re: Can I make a 455 out of a G block 400?


>>>
>>> The maximum factory recommended oversize on the 400
>>> is .060"  In order to fit standard 455 pistons, you
>>> would need to remove .255" from the bore.  That's
>>> just a bit more than a quarter of an inch.
>>> There is simply not enough material in the bore
>>> to remove that much.
>>>
>>>
>>> Greg Rollin
>>> Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
>>> 503-244-8249
>>> http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
>>> E-mail: supercars@transport.com
>>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 10:22:55 -0700
From: "Bruce Camilli" <bcam@vel.net>
Subject: RE: olds stuff

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This is an add-on for the ebay posting, if you aren't real familiar with =
search engines, if you use olds instead of oldmobile you will get a much =
larger selection, but try both or your specific year of car
Bruce
70 Delta88 Conv.
75 Delta88 Royale Conv.

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 16:29:21 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1964 F-85

You also have  a fordged steel crank...in you 330c.i....very few other Olds
motors have fordged cranks.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 18:08:03 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 64 olds super 88

On Sat, 24 Oct 1998, MIKE KINNEY wrote:
>  my question is , is it best to fog the moter in te fall for winter
> storage or should i wait till spring before i start it up? i have a 394
> motor in a 64 olds super 88,   thanks.

If you're talking about something along the lines of a marine fogging
agent, I have never used it and know of no one who does around here. I
have stored cars for 6 months or so and just made sure to put a fuel
preservative in the tank, and changed the oil in the spring.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 17:37:53 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Forged Cranks (was: 1964 F-85)

You also have  a fordged steel crank...in you 330c.i....very few other Olds
motors have fordged cranks.
_________

Actually, all Olds motors build between 64 and 67 have forged cranks, in
addition to a very few 455s built in early 1968.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 19:10:30 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Safety Reminder (Was Re: Time changes tonight..!!)

Another thing that's not Olds-related, but could save an Olds-lover:

When you set your clocks back and forth each year (both now and when it
changes in the spring) replace the batteries in your smoke detectors.  Easy to
remember and gets the job done twice a year.  And the Olds-lover saved might
be you.....................

Take Care (Please......),
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
ks7racing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 16:10:05 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Can I make a 455 out of a G block 400?

mbloomer wrote:
>
> What the factory recommends and what can be done safely
> are two different things.  Due to the higher nickel content in
> thier iron and the normally thick cyl walls you can bore just
> about any Olds motor more than you can just about any other
> make.  Due to lack of specs and experience with 400's I
> don't know if it can be done but on my 72 350 block I was
> running forged .030 over pistons and dropped a valve.  I
> couldn't find .040 or .060 over 350 pistons so I called Joe
> Mondello and he told me I could use STD bore 455 pistons
> and possibly even go .030 over with those if I had to later.
> I didn't believe it at first but ended up doing it and talk about
> a mean 350!
>
> Mike B
> mbloomer@gateway.net




Mike,

  Using standard 455 pistons in a 350
only requires a .068" overbore.  Which
is a big difference compared to the .255"
overbore required to use std 455 pistons
in a G block 400.
  By using the std 455 pistons in your 350,
you have only removed an additional .004"
(per side of the cylinder) from the factory's
maximum overbore recommendation.
  Now if you were to use .030 oversize 455
pistons in your 350, this would require
a .098 overbore. And should be sonic
checked for cylinder thickness.
I suspect this is why Mondello
said you could "possibly" use .030 455
pistons in your 350.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 17:22:20 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Safety Reminder (Was Re: Time changes tonight..!!)

> When you set your clocks back and forth each year (both now and when it
> changes in the spring) replace the batteries in your smoke detectors.

Yes, ~especially~ the ones in the garages and under the dash :)  And the ones 
in
the basement, near and dear to the Oldsmobile parts storage area.  And ~test~
them.  Place ~all~ of them in the garage, and do one major smokeshow with your
Olds.  (OK, I don't know how many will detect the rubber smoke, but if there's 
a
spouse to convince, I won't say otherwise :)

There, ~now~ it's Olds related!  :)

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 19:53:46 -0500 (EST)
From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu>
Subject: Re: Do you have an answer to this question?

>            I was wondering, I know it was popular in the 60's & 70's,
> and I've seen some 78-80 models. But my quwstion is this, has anyone
> ever seen an 81-87 Cutlass with a black interior,was it an option? I
> know Clayton has a black vinyl interior, but I can't say I've ever
> ~even ~ heard of a 81-87 with one. Any input on this would be greatly
> appreciated.

I saw an '85 Calais with a black interior one time... I couldn't get close
enough to see details though.  Other than that I've never seen one...
heard rumors they exist... but that's the only one I've ever seen.



    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
 |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
 |  |  |
 |  |  |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
 | / \ |
 |/   \|     1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
  \   /         (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
   \ /          http://www.442.com/pierce.html
    |        1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass Brougham
		(parts car) (307, 4bbl, TH350, 2.14:1, 90k miles)
	     1980 Rover 3500 SD1
	        (215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/othercars.html
     	     1979 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
		(260 V8, 2bbl, TH350)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/79cutlass.html
	     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
		(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/bonneville.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 19:58:42 -0500 (EST)
From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu>
Subject: Re: Best body filler choices

On Sat, 24 Oct 1998, Dave Cullen wrote:

> >Does anyone have a
> >recommendation on the best body filler to use for smoothing out the
> >rough areas within the weld? The guy at the body shop mentioned a
> >waterproof green body filler.
>
> Bondo still seems to be the goop of choice for that. As long as it's not
> exposed to weather (gotta be enclosed within the repair).

There's lead... but it's hard to find anybody that does lead work
anymore... must be dangerous and cause cancer or something like that.  A
buddie's former girlfriend has a '56 S88 that has all lead bodywork on it.
Hasn't cracked, rusted, or damaged the paint in over 20 years since her
father did it now.


    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
 |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
 |  |  |
 |  |  |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
 | / \ |
 |/   \|     1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
  \   /         (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
   \ /          http://www.442.com/pierce.html
    |        1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass Brougham
		(parts car) (307, 4bbl, TH350, 2.14:1, 90k miles)
	     1980 Rover 3500 SD1
	        (215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/othercars.html
     	     1979 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
		(260 V8, 2bbl, TH350)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/79cutlass.html
	     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
		(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/bonneville.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 20:11:44 EDT
From: "Norm Baier" <nbaier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Can someone help me?

You should be able to do the following:
*********************************************************************
If you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list,
you can send mail to <majordomo@chebucto.ns.ca> with the following
command in the body of your email message:

    unsubscribe oldsmobile nbaier@hotmail.com

If you ever need to get in contact with the owner of the list,
(if you have trouble unsubscribing, or have questions about the
list itself) send email to <oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca> .
This is the general rule for most mailing lists when you need
to contact a human.
*********************************************************************

Norm Baier
Woodstock, GA
- ----Original Message Follows----
From:	"L.TRUAX" <tabby@cardina.net>
To:	<oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Can someone help me?
Date:	Fri, 23 Oct 1998 20:55:15 -0400
Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

HI Ed, Good luck! i've been trying to get off the list for a long time.
please let me know if you make it!!.  Thanks Leroy
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ed Cline <justaskus@sotelectronics.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, October 23, 1998 8:05 PM
Subject: Can someone help me?


>I have been trying to get off this list.  Can someone help me and point
>me in the right direction?
>
>Thanks.
>




______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 20:25:59 -0400
From: "Chris Brown" <Elric@dclink.com>
Subject: Heating/AC revisited

Well,
I found the vaccuum line and replaced it, it was melted.
The line is hooked into the control, but there is another vaccuum connection
that doesnt have a line to it, I looked at all the lines and connections,
and there doesnt seem to be any not connected, but my vents still do not
work, the only lever tyhat has a cable is the temperature lever, and that
works.....I split the line with a T connector, and it still doesnt work.
Any advice?? I am getting a manual sometime next weekend (payday).  but its
getting colder here, and Id like to get this fixed before hand.  I think I
may end up taking it to an Olds dealer to have them check, but I dont want
to spend that much money.
Thanks,
Chris Brown
72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 19:38:49 -0500
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Can I make a 455 out of a G block 400?

>Mike,
>
>  Using standard 455 pistons in a 350
>only requires a .068" overbore.  Which
>is a big difference compared to the .255"
>overbore required to use std 455 pistons
>in a G block 400.
>  By using the std 455 pistons in your 350,
>you have only removed an additional .004"
>(per side of the cylinder) from the factory's
>maximum overbore recommendation.
>  Now if you were to use .030 oversize 455
>pistons in your 350, this would require
>a .098 overbore. And should be sonic
>checked for cylinder thickness.
>I suspect this is why Mondello
>said you could "possibly" use .030 455
>pistons in your 350.
>
>
>Greg Rollin
>Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
>503-244-8249
>http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
>E-mail: supercars@transport.com
>
Greg,

As I said I don't have the spec's or any experience with 400's but
what I do know is that with a Olds block the conventional wisdom
of how much meat you have to leave in the cyl walls (this "wisdom"
being from the Chevy guys) for them to hold up is sort of out the
window.  The iron is so much stronger than a Chevy motor (and
for that matter Chrysler and Ford too) that the amount of material
you have to leave in the cyl walls on a Chevy is more than you
would have to leave on a Olds motor.  Also, with Chevy motors
core shift is very common, the question is not if it has core shift
but how much.  As a whole Olds motors have thicker walls and
the occurence of major amounts of core shift is not common.
Basically Olds just made better quality parts.  The point I was
trying to make is simply that just because the factory says .060"
is the farthest you can go doesn't mean that the discussion ends
there.  There is even a kit to turn a 350 into a 454 (albeit with a
diesel block) which is the ultimate sleeper and was never
envisioned by the factory but it works.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 17:49:55 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Heating/AC revisited

Chris Brown wrote:
>
> Well,
> I found the vaccuum line and replaced it, it was melted.
> The line is hooked into the control, but there is another vaccuum connection
> that doesnt have a line to it, I looked at all the lines and connections,
> and there doesnt seem to be any not connected, but my vents still do not
> work, the only lever tyhat has a cable is the temperature lever, and that
> works.....I split the line with a T connector, and it still doesnt work.
> Any advice?? I am getting a manual sometime next weekend (payday).  but its
> getting colder here, and Id like to get this fixed before hand.  I think I
> may end up taking it to an Olds dealer to have them check, but I dont want
> to spend that much money.
> Thanks,
> Chris Brown
> 72 Cutlass Supreme


Chris,
On the control panel where the vacuum hose from the
underhood tank is connected only uses two of the
three ports.  At first glance it would appear that
the center post requires a hose.  Although if you
look close it is actually a solid post that nothing
connects to.  Where I would look next would be the
diaphragms that are located behind the passenger
side kick panel.  If these are not connected
or if the hoses are pinched, have holes, etc. the
vents will not work.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1569
*********************************
