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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1523


oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, October 1 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1523



Re: funny sound
RE: funny sound
Re: Tail Lens theory, fact or fiction.
Re: funny sound
Re: funny sound
Re: funny sound
Re: funny sound
Re: funny sound
CAR SHOW
Re: IF I DON'T GET SOME H*LP, MY CAR IS GOING TO DIE (long, PLEASE  read!)
Re: IF I DON'T GET SOME H*LP, (redundant response)
Re: Need elec. h#lp on 1982 Olds
Re: 1985 442
Re: funny sound
1962 Starfire
question about W striping options
Re: Tweeter Dome Location??
Re: restoring SSI
Re: Car Alarms >>Kinda Long
Re: Everyone lists their cars
Re: Find a 455 was: Joe (Buy a 455) Padavano
Arrrgh! 2-Jet Rochesters!
Re: Trials of a List Administrator (non-Olds)
Re: Digest Size
Re: More Edelbrock RPM 403
Re: More Edelbrock RPM 403
Re: Arrrgh! 2-Jet Rochesters!
dash emblem
UNBOUNCE: '62 Starfire Side Moldings
Re: 1985 442
Re: Car Alarms and Heads and W-30 Omega!
Re: Car Alarms --Kinda Long
Re: Car Alarms >>Kinda Long
Re: Car Alarms >>Kinda Long
Re: Car Alarms >>Kinda Long
Re: Car Alarms --Kinda Long
G-Body.Org now has a Representative for Cutlass!!!
Re: 1985 442
Alarms
Re: Car Alarms --Kinda Long
Re: Arrrgh! 2-Jet Rochesters!
RE: Tweeter Dome Location??
Re: Alarms
Re: Alarms
Re: Kill Switch (was Alarms)
Re: New to the web/Clutch Linkage
Good bodywork books?
Re: cam info
roof rust repair advice
Re: Olds 403
Re: Good bodywork books?
Re: cam info
Re: cam info
Re: Arrrgh! 2-Jet Rochesters!
Re: Alarms
Re: roof rust repair advice
Re: roof rust repair advice
455 Cam's
Re: 455 Cam's
Where to hide an alarm switch (Was Re: Alarms)
Re: Rear End Switch
Carb Rebuild

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 09:13:07 -0400
From: "FRANK MONTERO" <parc@erols.com>
Subject: Re: funny sound

- -----Original Message-----
From: SpeedCom@aol.com <SpeedCom@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, October 01, 1998 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: funny sound


>In a message dated 10/1/98
> 8:<BR04:<BR08 AM Central Daylight Tim, parc@erols.com writes:
>
>> >Could be rear end gears or bearings, could be u-joints, could be...
>>  >
>>  >Jim...
>>  >
>>
>>  The sound comes from the front drivers side, Jim
>
>
>Hmmmm,
>
>maybe a loose screw or something???? <G>
>

THANKS,

Frank

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 09:10:46 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: funny sound

<Snip>

<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of FRANK MONTERO

<>My 85 442 make a loud humming sound as you drive past 40mph. It
<>only does it
<>when the gas is being applied. Once you release the gas it stops until you
<>reapply it again. I can't quite put my finger on what it is? Any ideas?

<A>

Have you recently changed the air intake ducting or filter? Maybe you
created a change of the intake air harmonics to vibrate in an audiable
range?

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
gjcouse@francomm.com
  
1986 Custom Cutlass Brougham = "Quincy"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 09:20:00 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Tail Lens theory, fact or fiction.

Jerry Christopher wrote:
>
> RGHaun@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Look at tail light lens, year of car is there.
>
> If this were true...
>
> My 87 Cutlass (complete with Euro-Front Clip) would be identified as an
> 85, since that's the year the Tail lights were approved for use on that
> car with that body style by the Gov't.

Yeah, well, this usually only holds true for the days when taillights
changed every year. A 70 is different than a 71, 72, 73, etc. Nowadays,
cars change very little, if at all, so why should they spend money and
change the taillights?

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 09:23:00 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: funny sound

SpeedCom@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 10/1/98
>  8:<BR04:<BR08 AM Central Daylight Tim, parc@erols.com writes:
>
> > >Could be rear end gears or bearings, could be u-joints, could be...
> >  >
> >  >Jim...
> >  >
> >
> >  The sound comes from the front drivers side, Jim
>
> Hmmmm,
>
> maybe a loose screw or something???? <G>

Maybe your 4 barrels are stuck open??? I know the Crapiece has a
tendancy to do this when I hatem my car and my foot's having a heavy
day.

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 09:24:59 -0400
From: "FRANK MONTERO" <parc@erols.com>
Subject: Re: funny sound

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS <gjcouse@francomm.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, October 01, 1998 9:12 AM
Subject: RE: funny sound


><Snip>
>
><>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
><>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of FRANK MONTERO
>
><>My 85 442 make a loud humming sound as you drive past 40mph. It
><>only does it
><>when the gas is being applied. Once you release the gas it stops until
you
><>reapply it again. I can't quite put my finger on what it is? Any ideas?
>
><A>
>
>Have you recently changed the air intake ducting or filter? Maybe you
>created a change of the intake air harmonics to vibrate in an audiable
>range?
>
>----Regards,
>
>Gary J. Couse
>Couse Custom
>gjcouse@francomm.com
>
>1986 Custom Cutlass Brougham = "Quincy"
>i haven't done anything like that.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 09:26:48 -0400
From: "FRANK MONTERO" <parc@erols.com>
Subject: Re: funny sound

- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, October 01, 1998 9:18 AM
Subject: Re: funny sound


>SpeedCom@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> In a message dated 10/1/98
>>  8:<BR04:<BR08 AM Central Daylight Tim, parc@erols.com writes:
>>
>> > >Could be rear end gears or bearings, could be u-joints, could be...
>> >  >
>> >  >Jim...
>> >  >
>> >
>> >  The sound comes from the front drivers side, Jim
>>
>> Hmmmm,
>>
>> maybe a loose screw or something???? <G>
>
>Maybe your 4 barrels are stuck open??? I know the Crapiece has a
>tendancy to do this when I hatem my car and my foot's having a heavy
>day.
>
>--
>*************
>Matt Cremean
>mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
>+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
>1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
>1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
>1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
>1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
>+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
>http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
>**************************************************

No I has something to do with the drivers side, front of car. That whole
section. The noise comes from there.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 08:22:33 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: funny sound

>The sound comes from the front drivers side, Jim
I went through a similar experience with my full size van this summer.  Turned
out to be shot pinion bearings.  The sound was hardly noticable in the front
passenger seat while it was very noticable in any other seat.  Sound travels
in strange directions sometimes.  I ended up running the van in gear while on
stands and listening to various driveline parts until I found the noise.

Good luck isolating it,
Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 09:38:52 -0400
From: Jim Olson <jolson@edzone.net>
Subject: Re: funny sound

A fact that you left out of your previous message, perhaps?

Still could be a wheel bearing or a bad tire.

Jim...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 09:34:26 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: CAR SHOW

For all you westeren new yorkers, car show this Sat and Sun
at Sprague Brook Park, Foote Rd., Glenwood NY, Rt.240,
info contact Dan at 716-858-8353.

Ron Haun (rghaun@aol.com)
71 442 W30 Red Convert.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 09:08:41 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: IF I DON'T GET SOME H*LP, MY CAR IS GOING TO DIE (long, PLEASE
read!)

<snipped>
>> 1. My OIL/CHOKE idiot light comes on (and then goes off) at certain times,
>> specifically when I go up or down hills, or when I come to a full stop (but
>> never, for example, when I'm just booking down a flat stretch of highway).
>> I check the oil every couple of days, and it always reads FULL; why is this
>> happening? I don't think that it's a problem with the sender, because
>> there are set times when it happens (up or down hills, etc.)...could it be
>> the oil pump? Am I endangering my engine by driving it like this? After
>> the light comes on, it will go off either (a) after the major part of the
>> ascent (or descent) on the hill is completed, or (b) when I goose the
>> accelerator. I think this could be a potentially serious problem...
>
<previos responses snipped>

All the suggestions you rec'd are possible. Short story -- probably not
enough oil pressure. I think it's time to get inside the engine & see what's
wrong --- cam bearings, oil pump, restrictions, etc. , etc.  or give it up &
get anothet engine (car?) when this one dies, as it surely shall.






> But on the way to Houston (and back), the car
>"surged"...by that I mean that you're going along at whatever speed (only
>after about an hour of driving, though, so only after the engine is hot,
>BUT at both highway and city speeds) and the car seems to momentarily lose
>power for, like, exactly one second.<snipped>


Can't splain this one. Sounds almost like vapor lock or transient fuel
delivery probles. (Scientific wild-assed guess.) Such can be cause by
verheating in intake/carb area.



>We pulled off the road at one point on the way to Houston to get gas, and
>about a minute after I turned the engine off, wispy smoke began to come
>from (seemed like) the exhaut manifold between the (from the front) 2nd and
>3rd cylinders on the driver's side.  Not a HUGE amount of smoke, mind you,
>but definately enough to notice (and get me really worried)..

This sounds like an intake manifold gasket leak. It would cause some coolant
loss, possibly mix coolant in the air-fuel mixture, and allow for some
pretty serious vacuum leaks---which may have to do with the surging


Wish you well. Don't know what the hey all your noises are.

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 09:13:05 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: IF I DON'T GET SOME H*LP, (redundant response)

Sorry to all, but, somehow my damned mail program sent this before I was
finished, so a lot of this is repeat. Egg on face......


<snipped>
>> 1. My OIL/CHOKE idiot light comes on (and then goes off) at certain times,
>> specifically when I go up or down hills, or when I come to a full stop (but
>> never, for example, when I'm just booking down a flat stretch of highway).
>> I check the oil every couple of days, and it always reads FULL; why is this
>> happening? I don't think that it's a problem with the sender, because
>> there are set times when it happens (up or down hills, etc.)...could it be
>> the oil pump? Am I endangering my engine by driving it like this? After
>> the light comes on, it will go off either (a) after the major part of the
>> ascent (or descent) on the hill is completed, or (b) when I goose the
>> accelerator. I think this could be a potentially serious problem...
>
<previos responses snipped>

All the suggestions you rec'd are possible. Short story -- probably not
enough oil pressure. I think it's time to get inside the engine & see what's
wrong --- cam bearings, oil pump, restrictions, etc. , etc.  or give it up &
get anothet engine (car?) when this one dies, as it surely shall. May be
able to get by for awhile with engine cleaner followed by use of 40 wt oil.



> But on the way to Houston (and back), the car
>"surged"...by that I mean that you're going along at whatever speed (only
>after about an hour of driving, though, so only after the engine is hot,
>BUT at both highway and city speeds) and the car seems to momentarily lose
>power for, like, exactly one second.<snipped>


Can't splain this one. Sounds almost like vapor lock or transient fuel
delivery probles. (Scientific wild-assed guess.) Such can be cause by
verheating in intake/carb area.



>We pulled off the road at one point on the way to Houston to get gas, and
>about a minute after I turned the engine off, wispy smoke began to come
>from (seemed like) the exhaut manifold between the (from the front) 2nd and
>3rd cylinders on the driver's side.  Not a HUGE amount of smoke, mind you,
>but definately enough to notice (and get me really worried)..

This sounds like an intake manifold gasket leak. It would cause some coolant
loss, possibly mix coolant in the air-fuel mixture, and allow for some
pretty serious vacuum leaks---which may have to do with the surging
At any rate, if you're going to keep driving this car, manifold gasket is
going to have to be replaced.

Wish you well. Don't know what the hey all your noises are.

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 07:14:53 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Need elec. h#lp on 1982 Olds

> Anyone out there have a ~GM~ manual for an 82 Olds....I need
> some help with wiring .....need to know some colors...of course
> they're different on a 82 compared to my 84 and 85....can someone
> help please?

Just go ahead and post the details; we'll either know the answers,
have a book with the answers, or a car in the parking lot that
might match it...

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 10:33:23 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: 1985 442

FRANK MONTERO wrote:
>
> I wanted to flush out my engine oil and clean out the engine. I was told
> never to use "MOTOR FLUSH" because it can seize your engine. What do you
> recommend I use?

Motor Flush, and new oil/filter...  Follow the directions on the side of
the can, I did mine yesterday...  I put new oil in, new filter on, ran
it five minutes, drained oil changed to another new filter, and dropped
in 4 1/2 Qts 20W50, and I was on my way.

> I was also told I could simply change the oil every month for about 3 months
> and that would also take the place of flushing it!!

No, already tried that...  Doesn't do anything except get expensive...
I've been changing mine once a month for the past year, no luck..
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 10:34:16 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: funny sound

FRANK MONTERO wrote:

> The sound comes from the front drivers side, Jim

Go balance the tire, move it to the rear of the car, and try it again
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 10:40:03 -0200
From: Kip Andreas <kandreas@sgi.net>
Subject: 1962 Starfire

Can anyone help me find wide aluminum body side moldings for a 1962 Olds
Starfire my cousin is rebuilding?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 08:00:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: question about W striping options

I have a 1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe.  It's currently getting
painted, and I want to get stripes on the hood.  My question is this,
did any of the cars that came stock with stripes come without the ram
air hood?  If so, what hoods came on what cars.  I have the regular
steel hood on my car with the 2 raised areas, and I was wondering what
the stripes should look like (basically, where do they start and end,
what edges are supposed to look like, etc.).  If anybody could help me
out with this it would be greatly appreciated.  Basically, I just
don't want the stripes to look like cr*p when it's finished.

TIA

Stefan
sgadecki@yahoo.com
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 09:17:44 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Tweeter Dome Location??

I will get a Clarion 6" mids + tweets.  I was thinking about this myself.
First thought was the sidepanel on my Delta, where the seatbelts go.   But
then, that will be too loud.  Probably the front side pillars, they would
work the best. Igor.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/propane/th2004r)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
To: oldsnet <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, September 30, 1998 7:43 PM
Subject: Tweeter Dome Location??


>Been following the various stereo threads and wondered if anybody has an
>opion as to the best location for tweeter domes.
>
>I've thought of:
>
>1) high on front doors to face side to side
>
>2) cutting into dash and bounce off of windshield.
>
>Been leaning towards the door location as I thought bouncing off the glass
>would be somewhat shrill as well as too direct.
>
>TIA,
>
>jp
>
>Jonathan Parke
>mailto:jonparke@together.net
>'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 11:12:37 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: restoring SSI

Just curious as to how one would go about restoring the 14x6 all chrome
drum-only SSI wheels?
___________

Chris,

Many of the shops that modify stock wheels can also rechrome them.  Try
Stockton Wheel, for example.  Repainting the black areas is the problem, as
getting the paint to stick to the chrome can be a challenge.  I've heard
(though not yet tried it) that the newer self-etching primers exhibit
excellent adhesion to chrome.  You might want to ask the question at the
painting bulletin board.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 11:19:35 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Car Alarms >>Kinda Long

I've been ignoring the car alarm thread, but I think I've got to add my
$0.02.

Show of hands.  How many list members have been in a parking lot when a car
alarm went off?  How many did anything about it?

My point is, I seriously doubt that an alarm does anything other than annoy
people.  I would consider spending the money instead on a good antitheft
device like a kill switch, fuel shutoff, or other disabling device.
Another item I've seen is a hardened steel collar that covers the steering
column ignition lock, making it virtually impossible to use a slide hammer
to break out the lock.  This one has the advantage of being a visual
deterrent as well as a real one.  I've also heard excellent comments about
LoJack.

If you feel that an alarm has deterrent properties, just get a set of
decals and a flashing LED (see Andy Green description of the hookup).  This
probably has 95% of the value of an alarm for 5% of the cost.  Plus, it
won't add to noise pollution.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 11:39:19 -0400
From: Jim Olson <jolson@edzone.net>
Subject: Re: Everyone lists their cars

I'm going to ignore that comment, junior. :)

BTW, I know I asked this last night, but does anyone in the
michigan/north ohio area have any interest in my 77-79 350 that runs
strong despite having a bad exhaust valve?

Jim...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 11:03:58 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: Find a 455 was: Joe (Buy a 455) Padavano

Karl Aune wrote:
>
>Forgive me, but I have to question you knowledge of the yardes in your area.
>
Good points all, Karl.

I have pretty well scoured all the "yardes" I know of within a 30ish mile
radius of where I live over the past 3 or 4 years. Most of the greedy,
short-sighted "gentlemen" who run theses places in my (red) neck of the
woods have crushed like crazy for scrap value. Even  places that were good
sources a couple years ago now have nothing but newer junk.

There is one place that prolly has something -- but these are the very
paranoid gentlemen who'll have some chance of a future with Dept of
Corrections. I do get stuff there from time to time 'cause I gotta have it.
But, damn, I don't trust those guys. (They've been busted at least once
already for buying "hot" cars, but somehow are still in biz.)

Mebbe I should put on my crummiest, geasiest clothes & go talk to 'em. I
just know they'll cheat me...

Perhaps I'm too big a wimp to drive a BB Olds!

roger

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 12:01:25 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Arrrgh! 2-Jet Rochesters!

So anyway....

Mr. Yeager and Karl were chatting about carbs t'other day.

Q came up: how do you discern between a 750 and 850cfm QJet?

D.Y. picks up one and looks at it, Karl spies Roe book and flips around.

Answer: the primary throttle plates are larger by 1/8" (or less, not got book
now).
Something Karl thinks must be really tough to "eyeball".

Then Karl spied summat else on the same page.
And spouted a LOT of colorful expletives.

This goes back to Karl's hunt for early 2-Jet carbs for the J-2, and an
appropriate late 2-Jet to replace parts on SOM's carb.

Book say: XXX" throttle plates = XXX" venturi and XXXcfm

Basically, early 2-Jets had a smaller diam. throttle plate.
Noticeably so.

So book lists two different throttle plate sizes.

There were 5 different venturii sizes for the larger throttle plate!
This is the later type!

DOH!!

Karl thought something like this was so.

At last car show, Karl saw several 2-Jet cores for sale but did not buy
because stamping indicated 1975 (Karl says Rrrr??) and they ~looked~ slightly
different than Soylent's respirator.

So.
On with Project Holley!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 12:01:22 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Trials of a List Administrator (non-Olds)

Hey! Guys??

It is not just a joke!
It is also an object lesson!

<<  "uns*bribe" [sic]

 "Morons, you have to send it to the majordomo address"

 "How am I supposed to know that?"

 If it wasn't so pitiful, it would be funny.

 <end> >>

3 to complain that the joke was in the part of the digest that was truncated
somehow, and could anyone please forward the joke?

25 to repost the joke to the list

12 to post about how funny the joke was

1 to complain about the "me too" people posting about how funny it was....

which brings us back to

7 to say they are sorry they posted about how the joke was funny

1 to complain about HTML in one of the seven posts......

(but then nobody pays attention to the complaints)

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 12:01:22 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Digest Size

In a message dated 98-09-30 19:12:24 EDT, you write:

<<  40k digest size: 3
 60k digest size: 6
 (Not an overwhelming turnout)  >>

Having been on the digest for some time, long ago, do not know if my vote
counts.

Karl votes for 60K.

With a word processor could go through digest in ca. 40 mins.
BUT many a digest went unread.
Smaller digests means many more to keep up with.

BTW: I feel sorry for them when "funny noise" hits 'em.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 18:03:05
From: <crl6420@online.no>
Subject: Re: More Edelbrock RPM 403

At 30 Sep 98, you wrote
>give me the complete cam specs and bore and
>stroke and we will see....kk
>Subject: More Edelbrock RPM

Sorry, i do not have any specs. for bore and stroke.
can someone please help me them ? (Olds 403)
summit rac. has this info on the cam:
Lift: int .496 exh .520
Duration at .050": int 224 exh 234



>
>>Anybody tried the complete package on a 403 ?
>>and how will it do on the dyno. ?
>>
>>
>>
>>At 29 Sep 98, you wrote
>>>I'm not gonna give you any heat, to the contrary...I
>
>>>AGREE!!!! I have the complete RPM package on my
>
>>>65 and it "dead" below about 3500 rpm.It screams
>>>above that, but you just dont get above 3500rpm
>>>very often when cruising to work and back. My car
>
>>>has really takin' a hit in it's low end torque, now
>Im
>>>looking at building a TH-350 with a 3000+ stall just
>
>>>to get outta the hole (accelerate from dead stop).
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 18:31:28
From: <crl6420@online.no>
Subject: Re: More Edelbrock RPM 403

Found some on the FAQ list .
403 1977-79 Bore & stroke: 4.351 / 3.385



>Sorry, i do not have any specs. for bore and stroke.
>
>
>
>
>>
>>>Anybody tried the complete package on a 403 ?
>>>and how will it do on the dyno. ?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>At 29 Sep 98, you wrote
>>>>I'm not gonna give you any heat, to the
>contrary...I
>>
>>>>AGREE!!!! I have the complete RPM package on
>my
>>
>>>>65 and it "dead" below about 3500 rpm.It screams
>
>>>>above that, but you just dont get above 3500rpm
>>>>very often when cruising to work and back. My
>car
>>
>>>>has really takin' a hit in it's low end torque, now
>>Im
>>>>looking at building a TH-350 with a 3000+ stall
>just
>>
>>>>to get outta the hole (accelerate from dead stop).
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 12:46:41 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Arrrgh! 2-Jet Rochesters!

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> This goes back to Karl's hunt for early 2-Jet carbs for the J-2, and an
> appropriate late 2-Jet to replace parts on SOM's carb.

I'm tellin' ya, Karl. My Rochetser 2bbl is for sale!


- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 09:43:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: j a <vistaboy71@yahoo.com>
Subject: dash emblem

Any one know where I can get a 65 442 dash emblem??

Haven't seen any in any repro catalogs.





Jamie

'71 Vista



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 13:51:11 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '62 Starfire Side Moldings

Don't know why this person would uns*b themselves, *then* decide to post
to the list, but they did. :( Respond to kandreas@sgi.net if you can
assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Subject: 1962 Starfire
From:	Kip Andreas <kandreas@sgi.net>

Can anyone help me find wide aluminum body side moldings for a 1962 Olds
Starfire my cousin is rebuilding?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 10:16:33 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 1985 442

> Follow the directions on the side of the can, I did mine
> yesterday... I put new oil in, new filter on, ran it five
> minutes, drained oil changed to another new filter, and
> dropped in 4 1/2 Qts 20W50, and I was on my way.

Really? That's a 9-quart oil change. I thought Motor Flush was dumped
in with the existing old oil that you were about to drain; you then
idle it for five minutes before draining the old oil. But if that's
what it says to do...

>> I was also told I could simply change the oil every month for about
>> 3 months and that would also take the place of flushing it!!

I change the oil on my cars every 1500 miles -- works out to about
every 2-3 months on average -- and they're happy. No additives or
other extras. From what I can see of the innards, the engines are
spotless inside, and they purr (one's a 4-banger '86 Dodge at 121K;
the other a supercharged '93 V6 SSEi at 93K.). On my cars at the
1500-mile mark, the oil is getting dark with dirt but is not totally
opaque yet. I use Valvoline 10W-30 in summer and 5W-30 in winter,
and AC oil filters on both.

> No, already tried that... Doesn't do anything except get
> expensive... I've been changing mine once a month for the past
> year, no luck..

Yours is the garage with the oil tanker tied up out back, right?  :-)

- -- Andy


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 10:24:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Olds Omega <oldsomega73@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Car Alarms and Heads and W-30 Omega!

- ---Padavano.Joe@orbital.com wrote:
>
> Show of hands.  How many list members have been in a parking lot
when a car
> alarm went off?  How many did anything about it?

Okay I'm gonna have to disagree about this one. Sure I don't call the
cops everytime an alarm goes off, but I look for a second, and I
probably would do something if I saw someone breaking in to the car.
Not only that but if insurance companies, who NEVER want to lower
their rates, give better rates if you have a alarm (theft rates that
is) then they MUST do something.  I do agree that anti theft stuff
such as kill switch and the sort work great, but be careful about
LoJack.  I live in Houston, and LoJack says that service is available
in Texas, but after contacting my local police department they told me
that neither they nor the sheriff's dept. use LoJack.  So make sure
the service is offered before you drop over $400 for LoJack.  If you
could get anything you need to get what Lamborghini's use, which is a
small alen wrench looking device that actually is the only way to
connect the battery to the starter, otherwise you have to move one of
those things by tow truck, and each cars connector is different. Of
course that is one reason why they are so expensive.   BTW if anyone
has any 5 or 7 heads for sell give me a yell.

PS What would say to putting ram air (W-30) hood on an Omega? Just a
thought... hehe!

Avery Plank
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 10:29:45 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Car Alarms --Kinda Long

> My point is, I seriously doubt that an alarm does anything other
> than annoy people.

Me too. It would be more accurate to be talking about "security"
systems than "alarm" systems, really.

> I've also heard excellent comments about LoJack.

Same here. Not sure how well they cover non-city areas, though; you
need to ensure that not only the local cops but also most of those
in surrounding areas are signed up for the program or no one's going
to find your wheels real quick.

> If you feel that an alarm has deterrent properties, just get a
> set of decals and a flashing LED (see Andy Green description of
> the hookup).

Actually I've always used a steady-glowing one... whatever. The last
LoJack installation I checked out used a steady LED rather than a
flashing one, too.

The basic installation is that you connect the 12V LED's positive
lead to a BATTery source (a fusebox tap is ideal) and the negative
lead to a circuit (or IGNition fusebox tap) that's hot only when the
car is running. The LED stays out while the car is running, but when
the car is shut off, it uses that circuit as a ground, and lights up.

A regular LED can take only 2-3 volts without an extra resistor.
Easier to buy 12-volt versions at Radio Shack for a couple of bucks
and just snap them into a hole in the dash.

> This probably has 95% of the value of an alarm for 5% of the cost.
> Plus, it won't add to noise pollution.

I haven't installed this on a whole _lot_ of cars, maybe a dozen since
1985, but none of them have been messed around with since.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 14:43:41 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Car Alarms >>Kinda Long

Where I live isn't really a high car-theft area so maybe I would feel
differently otherwise, but I do agree with Joe. I hate alarms. Where I
used to live I was a couple blocks from a big parking lot, and every day
and night you'd hear the !@#$%$#@! things going off and being ignored --
except by neighbors who were trying to get some peace and quiet. It's so
commonplace to hear them now that no one pays them any mind.

Actually what bugs me more is the little ostentatious "chirp-chirp" they
make when the owner turns them on and off. As if to say, "look at me, look
at me; I've got a car alarm!". I don't know why it bugs me so, but it
does.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 10:56:08 -0700
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Car Alarms >>Kinda Long

Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> Actually what bugs me more is the little ostentatious "chirp-chirp" they
> make when the owner turns them on and off. As if to say, "look at me, look
> at me; I've got a car alarm!". I don't know why it bugs me so, but it
> does.

Well my favorite is the flatulating car alarm.  Make it quite
interesting
figuring out where the sound came from! :-)  Just kidding folks! :-)

Yes I am bored today at work!

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 13:16:09 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Car Alarms >>Kinda Long

As far as LoJack is concerned most suburban police departments only have 1
squad equipped with it. So if a car is stolen and the dispatch does not
state it is LoJack equipped that 1 squad(at least in that suburban P.D.
area) will not check the LoJack.

Let's say your car is taken and it does have LoJack and you call the LoJack
company telling them your car has been stolen. The car maybe 50+ miles away
from your home. The police departments in that area have no idea(most of
the time, unless it was dispatched on the State Wide ban radio) that your
car was stolen. Hopefully that 1 squad with LoJack equipped on it has a
patrol officer in it monitoring it. That officer could be out of the car
taking a report, in the station, on lunch(police officers must eat to live
too) or just that squad may be down for repair.

LoJack systems must be maintained and installed BY LOJACK ITSELF, so the
police department is not responsible for any malfunctions and or repairs to
the unit itself. As there are so many departments LoJack can only afford to
install 1 for each department. A larger department (Chicago) may have 1 or
2 for each of its districts. Most of the time those LoJack units are
probably broken. Let alone Chicago squads are beat down and on their last
leg.

I'm not knocking LoJack, just saying that it may not be that great anymore.
There are other companies with BETTER tracking units. I believe GM has a
SATELLITE unit which CAN TRACK the car via satellite and know its every
move. The dispatcher then tells the officer where the car is going and what
speed. This is far superior than the LoJack unit which has a green
indicator on a compass-like blip screen and you have to go in the direction
of the dot. Hopefully the car is not moving fast because you will lose it
off of the screen.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Car Alarms >>Kinda Long
> Date: Thursday, October 01, 1998 12:43 PM
>
> Where I live isn't really a high car-theft area so maybe I would feel
> differently otherwise, but I do agree with Joe. I hate alarms. Where I
> used to live I was a couple blocks from a big parking lot, and every day
> and night you'd hear the !@#$%$#@! things going off and being ignored --
> except by neighbors who were trying to get some peace and quiet. It's so
> commonplace to hear them now that no one pays them any mind.
>
> Actually what bugs me more is the little ostentatious "chirp-chirp" they
> make when the owner turns them on and off. As if to say, "look at me,
look
> at me; I've got a car alarm!". I don't know why it bugs me so, but it
> does.
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 14:18:32 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Re: Car Alarms --Kinda Long

In a message dated 10/1/98 1:31:40 PM Eastern Daylight Time, acg_o@hotmail.com
writes:

<< acg_o@hotmail.com (Andrew C. Green) >>
Radio Shack use to sell small window stickers that
said you car was equiped with an alarm system which
does'nt make any noise.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 14:29:01 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: G-Body.Org now has a Representative for Cutlass!!!

That's right, and it's OLDS related...

I am the rep (crossing fingers), at least I think I am...

Now all I gotta do is get our page up and running, and make it the one
with the most Class!!!  heh, after all, isn't that what we want?

More info as it becomes avail....
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 14:32:54 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: 1985 442

Andrew C. Green wrote:
>
> > Follow the directions on the side of the can, I did mine
> > yesterday... I put new oil in, new filter on, ran it five
> > minutes, drained oil changed to another new filter, and
> > dropped in 4 1/2 Qts 20W50, and I was on my way.
>
> Really? That's a 9-quart oil change. I thought Motor Flush was dumped
> in with the existing old oil that you were about to drain; you then
> idle it for five minutes before draining the old oil. But if that's
> what it says to do...

It does, but my oil wasn't in the greatest shape, and I didn't trust it,
the oil pressure was real low, and the viscosity of it had broken down,
(only 3000 miles, and it was toast), so for comfort, I put in the
cheapest oil I could, cheapest filter I could, and dropped the motor
flush with it...  Then I put the Valvoline and the PureONE on.

> > No, already tried that... Doesn't do anything except get
> > expensive... I've been changing mine once a month for the past
> > year, no luck..
>
> Yours is the garage with the oil tanker tied up out back, right?  :-)

hahahah. Actually......

J/K  Most people go to the Parts store and buy 5 quarts...  I buy 5
Cases....  I've got everything in a Valvoline box...  hahahaha.
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 14:29:22 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Alarms

Pitch the alarms, get a toggle switch, connect one terminal to
the positive side of the coil, connect the other terminal to ground.
Switch in one position will let you start the car, in other position
car will not start. (don't forget to hide the toggle switch somewhere) Have
had this connection on my car since I got it
plus on my other cars. Can't get any cheaper protection than this.
Ron Haun (rghaun@aol.com)
71 442 W30 Red Convert.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 14:38:47 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: Car Alarms --Kinda Long

Andrew C. Green wrote:
>
> > My point is, I seriously doubt that an alarm does anything other
> > than annoy people.
>
> Me too. It would be more accurate to be talking about "security"
> systems than "alarm" systems, really.

Mine isn't for the noise part...  It's actually more for my own driveway
than it is for a parking lot..   When it goes off, the dogs wake me up,
and I do something about it...

But now that I have it, I kinda like the remote door lock feature...  I
doubt I've used the door key twice since I had it put in a year ago.

And the insurance cut me a break due to it, and the collar protector I
have...
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 12:50:07 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Arrrgh! 2-Jet Rochesters!

In a message dated 98-10-01 12:42:59 EDT, you write:

<< > This goes back to Karl's hunt for early 2-Jet carbs for the J-2, and an
 > appropriate late 2-Jet to replace parts on SOM's carb.

 I'm tellin' ya, Karl. My Rochetser 2bbl is for sale!  >>

Point was that your 2-Jet is HIGHLY likely to be different from mine!

Venturii diam. directly affects cfm and pressure drop.

It'd be like bolting on a 1975 Qjet!

((Golly, you'd think this thing would move, but....))

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 11:52:42 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Tweeter Dome Location??

I've done this on my 98 and the sound is truly fantastic. Best ever.

I had previously experimented with high in the doors, but this is plainly
clearly much, much better.

The only drawback is that you have to cut the dash. I'm never selling the
car so that's not a problem for me. I cut the dash when the windshield was
out.

cf

> 2) cutting into dash and bounce off of windshield.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 14:47:25 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Alarms

Pitch the alarms, get a toggle switch, connect one terminal to
the positive side of the coil, connect the other terminal to ground.
________-

I have to agree.  This is the best, cheapest anti-theft device going.  I
did hear of a variation that's kind of cool.  Wire a slo-blow fuse across
the terminals of the toggle switch.  Now, if the switch is in the OFF
position, the thief will be able to start the car, only to have it die out
very shortly (as soon as the fuse blows).  Attempts to re-start will
obviously be unsuccessful, and the thief will simply think your car doesn't
run worth a $@#%, causing him to move on to someone else's car.  This has
the advantage that a savvy thief will likely be able to tell that there's a
kill switch if the car doesn't start immediately, and may spend a second
looking for it before bailing out.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 12:03:30 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Alarms

> Switch in one position will let you start the car, in other
> position car will not start. (don't forget to hide the toggle
> switch somewhere)

You betcha. You can also hide it in plain sight, if you can get
your hands on a factory accessory switch for something your car
isn't actually equipped with. Your average car thief probably isn't
going to think anything about the Cruise control switch being Off,
or a rear defogger switch in the dash of a car which clearly does
not _bave_ a rear defogger...   :-)

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 12:15:49 -0700
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Kill Switch (was Alarms)

All this talk of kill switches brought to mind my Scarlet.  When I was
pulling her carpeting out I noticed several kill switch mechanism (3 I
think
that were once installed on the car).  They no longer work since the
lady
who had the car before me hot-wired the car so that all a person has to
do is
push a button and viole' (sp?).  Kind of defeats the purpose.


Chris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 14:27:54 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: New to the web/Clutch Linkage

Right, everyone junks them right and left for a while, but a few
survive.
After a while the hunt for parts leads the remaining owners to form the
Iraqibou Owners Club (IOC), with a mailing list of about fifty who get
a photocopied newsletter ("The Raq-Top") every other month. One of them
hears about the Internet, and his college-aged offspring organizes an
IOC
listserv setup (to subscribe, send Email to
iraqibou-request@ccn.cs.dal.ca)
to which everyone in the IOC subscribes via their AOL accounts. Finally
a
web page is set up so the proud owners of beige Iraqibous can show off
their cars; thanks to the limited option package, only one .JPG image is
actually needed and everyone's listing points to the same file.

Have I missed anything?  :-)

Andrew C. Green            (312) 266-4431


And Checkers decides to releive himself on the tire of a "Best of Class"
winner at the IOC Nationals. . . . [ and the Andy and Mike saga
continues ]


- --
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 15:22:38 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <jlabay@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: Good bodywork books?

I have started the bodywork on my 1972 Cutlass and was wondering if there is 
any
good books I should use to assist me? This is my first time ever doing bodywork
and I am using this car as a learning tool.  I am not looking to restore this
car to a 100 point show quality.  I just want the body and paint to look solid.
Thanks

Jason Labay Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500..daily driver
87 Grand National...10.67@126.59
80 Olds 442 W-30...show car
72 Cutlass Supreme....drag car project

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 15:27:06 EDT
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: cam info

i found this cam pulls from 2000 to 6000.  rough idle.  i already have the
cam, but i have no use for it at this point in time.  i would consider selling
it if anyone is interested.
specs are:(280H)
280 duration   .490" lift

mikeytvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 15:28:37 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <jlabay@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: roof rust repair advice

Yesterday I removed the vinyl roof from my 72 Cutlass Supreme and to no 
surprise
I found rust.  The roof as a whole isn't bad except for up by the windshield,
especially on the right about the driver where a few quarter size holes have
showed up...thus that explains the roof leak. I was told I can patch this with
fiberglass? What type and where can I get it? Like I said before I am a 
bodywork
novice so will I be able to apply this? Thanks

Jason Labay Akron, OH
98 Silverado C2500...daily driver
87 Buick Grand National...10.67@126.59
80 Olds 442 W-30....show car
72 Cutlass Supreme....drag car project

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 15:30:31 EDT
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds 403

performer rpm cam will give the idle a big lope in a 403.  i have one in my
403 and it is monstrous all through the power band.

mikeytvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 15:52:41 EDT
From: WOODY3781@aol.com
Subject: Re: Good bodywork books?

Haynes makes a pretty decent guide to body repair. A good auto parts store
should have it, if not try a body supply house. Got mine through Harbor
Freight Catalog, also try Barnes & Noble on the net if all else fails. Good
luck and be patient, it can be frustrating for the backyard guy, which fits my
description.
wood

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 16:04:20 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: cam info

Mikeytvb@aol.com wrote:
>
> i found this cam pulls from 2000 to 6000.  rough idle.  i already have the
> cam, but i have no use for it at this point in time.  i would consider 
selling
> it if anyone is interested.
> specs are:(280H)
> 280 duration   .490" lift
>
> mikeytvb@aol.com

How much has it been used, what price?

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 15:00:25 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: cam info

this Comp Cam runs realllly good in my 67 330 10.25 comp.  650 street/strip
carb. headers....
>Brett
442@oldsracing.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com <Mikeytvb@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, October 01, 1998 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: cam info


>i found this cam pulls from 2000 to 6000.  rough idle.  i already have the
>cam, but i have no use for it at this point in time.  i would consider
selling
>it if anyone is interested.
>specs are:(280H)
>280 duration   .490" lift
>
>mikeytvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 16:05:46 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Arrrgh! 2-Jet Rochesters!

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 98-10-01 12:42:59 EDT, you write:
>
> << > This goes back to Karl's hunt for early 2-Jet carbs for the J-2, and an
>  > appropriate late 2-Jet to replace parts on SOM's carb.
>
>  I'm tellin' ya, Karl. My Rochetser 2bbl is for sale!  >>
>
> Point was that your 2-Jet is HIGHLY likely to be different from mine!
>
> Venturii diam. directly affects cfm and pressure drop.
>
> It'd be like bolting on a 1975 Qjet!
>
> ((Golly, you'd think this thing would move, but....))

Well, it's from my '70 350. I'm just trying to get rid of it. If you
really want it, let me know.

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 15:59:28 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Alarms

You betcha. You can also hide it in plain sight
__________

I've always liked a push-on,push-off switch built into the cigarette
lighter (though you then need another power source for the radar
detector/cell phone/video game/etc).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 16:00:18 EDT
From: WOODY3781@aol.com
Subject: Re: roof rust repair advice

I don't know where you live so my answer might seem stupid. A marine supply
store is the best. Buy the fiberglass cloth instead of matting. It's much
easier to work with and will save you the discomfort from fiberglass
irritation. Auto stores have it also but you were never looking for it before.
wood

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 16:02:25 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: roof rust repair advice

I was told I can patch this with fiberglass? What type and where can I get
it? Like I said before I am a bodywork novice so will I be able to apply
this? Thanks

Jason Labay
_________

Jason,

'Glass is, at best, a temporary fix.  Even if properly applied, you'll
eventually get a return of the rust.  If this is a race car and not a
restoration, this may be acceptable to you (we're likely talking a couple
of years for the rust to return).  Cutting out the rust and welding in new
metal is the only permanent fix.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 14:38:18 -0600
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: 455 Cam's

I'm thinking about installing a hotter cam in my 455.  It's a '69 455
w/10.25:1 compression.  I think I would like to put in a W-30 cam.  If I did
that, would I have to change anything else in my engine (besides new
lifters)?  I don't want to have to change a bunch of stuff.  I've never
swapped cams, so I don't know these things...

Thanks,
Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 16:44:14 -0400
From: "Jim & Joanne Chermack" <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 455 Cam's

Blaine

    Put a W-31 cam in it if you want to drive it with power brakes. Makes a
load of power and still has a nice sounding idle without effecting the power
brakes. Pulls hard past 6000 RPM with lots of bottm end torque.

Jim Chermack



- -----Original Message-----
From: B. Sanders <blaines@strata3d.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, October 01, 1998 4:35 PM
Subject: 455 Cam's


>I'm thinking about installing a hotter cam in my 455.  It's a '69 455
>w/10.25:1 compression.  I think I would like to put in a W-30 cam.  If I
did
>that, would I have to change anything else in my engine (besides new
>lifters)?  I don't want to have to change a bunch of stuff.  I've never
>swapped cams, so I don't know these things...
>
>Thanks,
>Blaine
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 14:14:23 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Where to hide an alarm switch (Was Re: Alarms)

>> You betcha. You can also hide it in plain sight
>
> I've always liked a push-on,push-off switch built into the
> cigarette lighter (though you then need another power source
> for the radar detector/cell phone/video game/etc).

Time for a quick summary of possible places on the dash to hide
an ignition kill switch, and their drawbacks:

ITEM          Disadvantage:
====          =============
GLOVEBOX      Have to leave glovebox hanging open while driving; risk
LIGHT SWITCH  of McDonald's ketchup packets all over front seat after
              brisk acceleration

LIGHTER       Must keep pressed in while driving; risk of third-degree
              burns, dashboard meltdown

REAR DEFOG    Have to keep pressing button every ten minutes or timer
              switches engine off

WIPERS        Constantly squeaking wipers on windshield in dry
              weather; have to keep wipers on high or engine runs
              too slow

HIGH BEAMS    Must travel only in funeral processions to avoid tickets

HORN          Gunfire from motorist in front

TAPE PLAYER   Have to turn up volume in order to increase speed;
              risk of deafness at highway speeds or stalling if
              passenger accidentally hits MUTE button

TURN SIGNAL   Must keep driving in circles

Have I missed any?

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 18:22:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Rear End Switch

- ---CPEARLPARK@aol.com wrote:
>
> My 71 4-4-2 has a rear end that's built for off-the-line launch.  I
need
> something I can cruise the interstates with. Can you guys tell me
what's
> involved in changing? Do you just change out rear end gearing or
replace the
> whole unit?  I know, rookie question again, but ......
>
- -------Easy way is to change the unit....and keep yours in case you
ever wanna go back. Basically....(short version here)...you jack the
car up on jack stands.....undo the e-brake cables, brake lines, and
the upper and lower trailing arms, lower the rear end out of the
car....and reverse for install.
         Couple of points to think about....as long as you've got it
out....cheap insurance...replace the wheel cylinders. Also be
safe...those rearends are ~HEAVY~...not to mention the car....
         A good street/highway gear is in the 3.08-3.23
range....depending on what you have will greatly affect what your car
will do if you go with like a ...2.56/2.73....great on topend....dog
off the line. 3.08/3.23 is a good compromise either way...
           Hope this helps.
                 Sman
==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 17:30:14 EDT
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Carb Rebuild

Just got a 71 455 Q-jet back for my Vista Cruiser. Perfect, beautiful as close
to NOS you could want, it even works great. I would recomend this guy to
anyone its $200.00 to restore and rebuild  and its worth it.
  I've had nothing but problems with rebuilds since I redid my engine and
tranny, but this guy cured it all.

The Old Carb Doctor     he does pre electronic only
Rt3 Box 338
Drucilla Church Rd
Nebo, N.C. 28761
1-800-945-CARB (2272)

Everett  OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1523
*********************************
