Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1588


oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, November 4 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1588



1987 Cutlass
RE: buying car
Bushing kit
Re: Power window conversion
Re: GK cam choice
RE: buying car
suggested cam choices for small block
WTD: ~3.73 G-Body Diff in Midwest
RE: buying car
Re: Baaad Day!!!!!
Re: Power window conversion
Re: Bushing kit
RE: 403 vs 307 HO
Re: november jwo
Re: Bushing kit
Re: november jwo
Show Quality Front Bumper
Original Message: Bushing kit
Re: Bushing kit
Show Quality Chrome Plater
Re: Bushing kit
Re: Engine pics up and parts pics too!!!
Re: buying car
Re: Questions about adjusting QuadraJet
RE: Bushing kit - without a spring compressor
bushing install
wmachine; there are real racers here
Re: 1987 Cutlass
Re: Questions about adjusting QuadraJet
Re: buying car
New Olds Web Page!
Re: Bushing kit
Re: suggested cam choices for small block
test, thanks Randy!
Re: wmachine; there are real racers here
Re: Baaad Day!!!!!(kind of long)
New web-page
Re: 1987 Cutlass
metal in oil, ASAP HELP
Re: what sealant for tranny pan?
Another Olds overheating-need h*lp
More Quadrajet Questions
RE: Window motor question
Re: Another Olds overheating-need h*lp
Re: 455 running very rich... Questions about adjusting Holley carb.
SUPPORT
RE: 455 running very rich... Questions about adjusting Holley carb.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 16:13:27 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Yasczak <VJTD@grove.iup.edu>
Subject: 1987 Cutlass

	I have been thinking about buying a PST polygraphite front end kit 
for  
my Cutlass.  I am also thinking about buying a new centerlink, new rear sprongs
and a set of KYB shocks as well.  My question is, what is everyones opinion of
PST's products.  If I go with all of this it will cost around $600 in parts
plus the labor to put it all on.  Any information would be greatly appreciated.

			Robb Yasczak		vjtd@grove.iup.edu

			1969	Cutlass S Conv.
			1969 	442
			1976 	442
			1987	Cutlass Salon
			1998 	Intrigue GLS

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 15:23:33 -0600 
From: "White R (Ron)  at MSXSEPC" <RW981454@MSXSEPC.shell.com>
Subject: RE: buying car

I didn't have any trouble. The car from that side looked good.

Ronnie White
Ronniewhite@shellus.com

	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Rock Man [SMTP:rockman20@yahoo.com]
	Sent:	Wednesday, November 04, 1998 3:10 PM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	Re: buying car


	> the guy says it's a daily driver.  there is a picture of it at
this
	location.
	> 
	> http://www.geocities.com/rainforest/canopy/4535/442.html
	-------------------------------------------------------

	Does anyone else get a page full of jumble when they try to access
	that site?
	==
	Rock-Man's Page
	http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
	rockman20@yahoo.com
	1986 Honda Accord DX
	1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
	1981 John Deer Snowmobile
	197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
	_________________________________________________________
	DO YOU YAHOO!?
	Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 13:25:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Bushing kit

I hate to burden the list, but since we are kind of talking about
bushings lately, I figured I better ask now. How hard is it to put a
complete bushing kit in a 69 Olds Cutlass S? I am thinking about
replacing the sway bar and I have done this before on other cars, but
how hard is it to get at the bushings in the a-arms? Do those get
replaced also? What about the rear-end? Any idea approximately how
difficult this actually is?




==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 13:29:55 -0800
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Power window conversion

Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> regulators are different from the crank-up ones, and AFAIK you can't use
> the manual ones and still look factory.

Who cares really if it looks factory.  It is going to be behind the door
panel anyway.

> They are a pretty good size, more than an inch for sure. I think 2" is
> probably correct.

I'll have to recheck Scarlet then.  I don't believe that whole is that
big.  This car did come with power windows from the factory (according
to build sheet).

> Say, if anyone has a set of '68 A-body 2-door hardtop power windows for
> sale, I'll give you a few bucks for them. Must not be worth much, guess
> they weren't very good, since they only made that kind the one year
> only... ;-)

Gosh I don't understand the joke here.

- -- 
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 16:37:07 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: Re: GK cam choice

Hello,
 Igor, IMO i think the 272 cam is too small also, unless you're running
a very low compression combo. A few years ago i had a 9.5-1 455 with a
Dave Smith cam that was 226/232 @ .050", .500"/.510", 110LC. It got
13mpg, and ran 12.5@105 in a Q-jet equipped 3500# cutlass. It pulled
well to 5400.
 I think the long stroke Olds will stand more cam than other shorter
stroke big engines.
 [for compairison purposes] The engine in my car now[10.3-1 comp] has a
Smith cam, 244/254 @.050, .560"/.545, 108LC. It'll idle at 500 in gear.
10mpg, 11.4@119. It pulls hard to 5800.
Dave Brode
64 Cutlass
  
> I would like to get a O4H-272-P cam, set of "Performance Hydraulic Lifter"> 
(what is the diff. between these and regular ones) for my 455.  It has a> 
stock valvetrain and  O4H-252-P right now.  It also has old pushrods from> 
before rebuild.  I would also like to get their pushrods O4P-OO (if that> 
price includes all the pushrods).  I am also thinking of getting their> 
valvesprings (# 951).  What improvement should these springs give me over> 
stock.  Also, how difficult are springs to install with the heads on the> 
motor.  Is the price good.  I also don't know what the rest of the stuff on> 
that list is.  Do you guys think that this combo sounds good.  My current> cam 
is too small for the 455, a little too much bottom end (1200-2000) not> enough 
top end (3000-5200). Igor Todorovic

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 15:34:02 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: RE: buying car

I can view the pic with Int. Explorer (should be newest version). I only 
see scrambled stuff with the old Netscape (2.0) on my unix platform. 
Conclusion: Does not work for all kindsa browsers...

George
- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Wed, 4 Nov 1998, White R (Ron) at MSXSEPC wrote:

> I didn't have any trouble. The car from that side looked good.
> 
> Ronnie White
> Ronniewhite@shellus.com
> 
> 	-----Original Message-----
> 	From:	Rock Man [SMTP:rockman20@yahoo.com]
> 	Sent:	Wednesday, November 04, 1998 3:10 PM
> 	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> 	Subject:	Re: buying car
> 
> 
> 	> the guy says it's a daily driver.  there is a picture of it at
> this
> 	location.
> 	> 
> 	> http://www.geocities.com/rainforest/canopy/4535/442.html
> 	-------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 	Does anyone else get a page full of jumble when they try to access
> 	that site?
> 	==
> 	Rock-Man's Page
> 	http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> 	rockman20@yahoo.com
> 	1986 Honda Accord DX
> 	1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
> 	1981 John Deer Snowmobile
> 	197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
> 	_________________________________________________________
> 	DO YOU YAHOO!?
> 	Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 16:47:08 -0500 (EST)
From: zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu
Subject: suggested cam choices for small block

I've got a buddy who is looking to put a high performance cam in his 307
in his '83 Cutlass.  Does anybody have any suggestions?  What provides 
good power over a broad range in a small-block.  What non-stock cams are
other's running in their 350's (I'm assuming that noone has actually built
up a 307 ;-).



    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
 |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
 |  |  |     
 |  |  |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
 | / \ |     
 |/   \|     1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
  \   /         (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
   \ /          http://www.442.com/pierce.html
    |        1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass Brougham
		(parts car) (307, 4bbl, TH350, 2.14:1, 90k miles)
	     1980 Rover 3500 SD1
	        (215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/othercars.html
     	     1979 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
		(260 V8, 2bbl, TH350)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/79cutlass.html
	     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
		(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/bonneville.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 16:55:28 +0000
From: "Joe Gerschutz" <gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu>
Subject: WTD: ~3.73 G-Body Diff in Midwest

Do anyone have about 3-3.73 or so posi rear end for a G body they are 
looking to sell in the Midwest?  Thanks.

Joe

PS Reply privatly please.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 16:53:34 -0500 (EST)
From: zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu
Subject: RE: buying car

That's because Netscape thinks that it's an html file and is trying to
view it as such.  If you write a small html file with a link 

<html>
<body>
<img src="http://www.geocities.com/rainforest/canopy/4535/442.html">
</body>
</html>

and save it in notepad as temp.htm or something like that... then you can
view the picture.  Looks to be a fairly nice car from the picture...

On Wed, 4 Nov 1998, George wrote:

> 
> 
> I can view the pic with Int. Explorer (should be newest version). I only 
> see scrambled stuff with the old Netscape (2.0) on my unix platform. 
> Conclusion: Does not work for all kindsa browsers...
> 
> George




    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
 |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
 |  |  |     
 |  |  |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
 | / \ |     
 |/   \|     1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
  \   /         (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
   \ /          http://www.442.com/pierce.html
    |        1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass Brougham
		(parts car) (307, 4bbl, TH350, 2.14:1, 90k miles)
	     1980 Rover 3500 SD1
	        (215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/othercars.html
     	     1979 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
		(260 V8, 2bbl, TH350)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/79cutlass.html
	     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
		(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/bonneville.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 15:58:38 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!

Person, 
Had problems with State Farm on the 75's clash with the deer, would fix,
(repair) damaged parts, gave me money for parts that could not be repaired,
or could not be found in my locale. About 40 cents on the dollar, 1975
dollars. Cost me money and  time to locate parts. Put on myself. Was not a
fun experience.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net


- ----------
> From: person <vbdeveloper@Worldnet.ATT.NET>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Baaad Day!!!!!
> Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 1:42 PM
> 
. However, I have never dealt with insurance adjusters on
> this car(and hope never will again). How will they be able to estimate
the
> damage?? I do not want money, I want my Bubba fixed.. Has anyone out
there
> ever dealt with insurance companies?  I would appreciate any help, advise
> etc.....
> 
> 
> =========================================
> '69 Olds Ninety-Eight Topless (slightly hurt)Bubba===
> =========================================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 18:08:36 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Power window conversion

On Wed, 4 Nov 1998, Chris Sparks wrote:
> Who cares really if it looks factory.  It is going to be behind the door
> panel anyway.

Well, that's the point. The only way I know of to use the manual
regulators and make them powered is to use the surface-mount kind you see
advertised in JC Whitney catalogs and the like. On the *outside* of the
panel. Definitely not a factory look. 

> Gosh I don't understand the joke here.

Ummm... one-year-only part, not all that many produced, 30 years old...
the last set I found was $400US. Not easy to find and expensive if you do. 


Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 16:05:51 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Bushing kit

> bushings lately, I figured I better ask now. How hard is it to put a
> complete bushing kit in a 69 Olds Cutlass S? I am thinking about

I did this 2 mos ago on my 68. you defenitely need a bearing seperator 
tool (fork looking thing, forgot the name, sorry about that). The work is 
no fun but you can get there in about two days for the front end. That is 
what I needed for new A arms, breaks, swaybar, control arms etc. I would 
defenitely do this work myself again, I think it does not need too much 
expertise to do. Your local Parts store should provide you with tools for 
free. (That is what AutoZone does, when you buy the parts there for your 
repair.)

I don't know how hard the bushings are to get out of the A arms because i 
got those already in a new exchange set of A arms when I purchased the car.

Hope this helps, 
George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 17:21:50 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: 403 vs 307 HO

Hey Bernie, glad to see you made it back.  Compare the torque specs.  A
basically stock 403 is an excellent "nice healthy street engine".

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of RCKTPWR@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 10:21 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 403 vs 307 HO


Got my 86 442 home from MI the other day.  My question is, what's the dif
between an 86 180 HP 307 vs a 79 185 HP 403?  I would think that more could
be
done w/an additional 96 cubic inches right?  Nothing radical, my 403 has an
aftermarket alum intake w/"4" heads.   Any suggestions??.  Just looking for
a
nice healthy street engine.  I have 2 sets of heads in my basement.  A pair
of
"5a" heads, and whatever heads were stock on a 140 HP 86 307 Cutlass Salon.
Thanks,,,,

Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 17:25:58 EST
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: november jwo

that is so weird no JWO yet...why pay ist class...

thanks for the msg jeff...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 14:30:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Bushing kit

> I did this 2 mos ago on my 68. you defenitely need a bearing
seperator 
> tool (fork looking thing, forgot the name, sorry about that). The
work is 
> no fun but you can get there in about two days for the front end.
That is 
> what I needed for new A arms, breaks, swaybar, control arms etc. I
would 
> defenitely do this work myself again, I think it does not need too
much 
> expertise to do. Your local Parts store should provide you with
tools for 
> free. (That is what AutoZone does, when you buy the parts there for
your 
> repair.)
> 
> I don't know how hard the bushings are to get out of the A arms
because i 
> got those already in a new exchange set of A arms when I purchased
the car.
> 
- -------------------------------------------------------

I am guessing that you are talking about a pickle fork? At least
that's what I have always called it. It looks like an oversized tuning
fork. What about the springs? Will I need a spring compressor to
relieve the front springs? What about the Caster settings? Will I need
to get the front end aligned again even if I get the spacers back
where they were?
==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 17:30:26 EST
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: november jwo

greg did you get the jwo about the same time as you usually do...


jeff...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 18:07:06 -0500
From: "George & Joan C. Lesperance" <gal1@MNSi.Net>
Subject: Show Quality Front Bumper

  Hi Folks:
      We are looking for a show quality front bumper for our 1969 442
W30  - No rust, no bumps, straight---does not need to have show quality
chrome.
       Thank-you.   We are located in Windsor, Ontario.

George & Joan Lesperance

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 18:11:16 -0500
From: "<GJC> Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Original Message: Bushing kit

Original Message: Bushing kit

My Polly bushings came pre-collared. That the metal collar that wraps around
them. Needed to use an air chisel on the side of the old bushing collar. The
angle was towards the way the bushings exit the A frames. The chisel
collapsed the collar enough for it to release years of grip, and "pop" out.
I also had access to a press that I used to remove the old bushings out of
the rearend suspension arms. The new slipped right in.

Do put the new bushings within the freezer for 24 hours before doing the
install. Mine came with a packet of silicone grease, (I think), that you
slop all over the collar exterior just prior to pushing them in there
location. The freezer trick shrinks the whole bushing/collar about 1/64th
+ - of an inch over the total width. Just enough to make it doable ....

- -----Regards,

   G.J.C
Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
Rt-1, Box-615
 Bailey Road
Purling, N.Y.
 12470-9709

ICQ# 5209322
 CC-IROC-SS
518-622-0376
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

Couse Custom Cutlass,
'86 CC-IROC-SS-#1 = "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/~cousecustoms/

Join Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List -
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody

Once a member, post to:
mailto:olds_gbody@listbot.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 18:19:38 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bushing kit

RockMan / List,

I can't speak for replacing the bushings in the upper A-arms, but did replace
the lower A-arm bushings (Grace, the 71 Cutlass 'S' stock car) with a set of
Energy Suspension units, and here's what I encountered:

1) If you have the arms with the oval rear bushing, some kits require you to
use the outer shell from the old bushings (Energy Suspension's do) and there's
not much I found that will work for removing the rubber part other than
burning it out with a torch.  It stinks, and if you don't have a big torch
(the one I usually use was out at the time) it could take a little time.  I'm
not sure if it's better to remove the old bushing and burn out the rubber or
leave it in place and do it in the A-arm, the shop I had press the bushings
out (no press here) took the old ones out and reinstalled them after I did the
dirty work.  The front bushing's round, and it is just a press-out, press-in
affair.  It also might be a good idea to support the gap in between the sides
of the arm as you do these, I think I remember seeing some spacers the factory
used when installing them in a service manual.

2) When you reinstall the arms to the frame, put some anti-sieze or grease on
the center of the bolt that goes through the arm, to prevent it from locking
itself to the center of the bushing.  I have a spare frame in the back yard
that I have to get a friend to use his torch to remove the bolt so I can
remove the arm.  Water gets in there and rust-welds the two parts together,
and then it's a fight to get them out.  Seems to always get to the rear
bushing more than the front one.

3) Sometimes the arm will not want to go back into the holes it came out of
without some "persuasion", have a big hammer or mallet handy.

This is about all I can remember about the job.  It can make a lot of
difference in the handling of a car due to the stiffness of the polyurethane
(or similar materials) keeping the alignment settings of the front end
consistent during cornering.  Stock rubber bushings do well for a smooth ride,
but they do have a lot of give in them and they deteriorate after some time.
And when they go bad, they can do a lot of damage if not caught in time -- had
a car once I had to replace an A-arm on after a bushing failed and the center
bushing shaft/bolt broke through the outer shell and deformed the arm bushing
hole itself.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
ks7racing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 18:20:18 -0500
From: "<GJC> Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Show Quality Chrome Plater

Anyone know of a Chrome Plater in the North East. We had one local but shut
down do to EPA. Haven't been able to find a Plater local. Say within 100 + -
miles of Albany, NY. Anyone have info on a Plater still in business. Mom +
Pop platters are a dying business. There is no plating control when you just
buy off the shelf, any shelf. Even Olds bumpers etc are coming through in
terrible condition.

- -----Regards,

   G.J.C
Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
Rt-1, Box-615
 Bailey Road
Purling, N.Y.
 12470-9709

ICQ# 5209322
 CC-IROC-SS
518-622-0376
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

Couse Custom Cutlass,
'86 CC-IROC-SS-#1 = "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/~cousecustoms/

Join Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List -
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody

Once a member, post to:
mailto:olds_gbody@listbot.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 17:26:46 -0600 (CST)
From: blue442@webtv.net
Subject: Re: Bushing kit

Rock-Man,

I replaced my bushings some time ago and have some tips.  On the A-arms,
use an air hammer to knock out the old ones.  Start one bushing in a
press or with hammer, being careful not to bend the arm. Insert shaft,
and start other bushing.  Now it gets fun. Lube the bushings with
penetrating fluid.  Put the shaft in a vise.  Tighen the shaft bolt or
nut (I have seen both) until the A-arm bows slightly.  Then use the
broadest contact point bit you can find for the air hammer (do avoid
marring the A-arm) and straighten the A-arm by hitting it on the ears
next to the bushing on the header side.  repeat as necessary.
On the rear, they simply press in and out. To avoid bending or
collapsing the arm, cut a length of angle iron to support the outer
ears. It should go in there as a block as close to the bushing as
possible.  Make sure you get a little resistance trying to insert it.  
Good luck
Jeff Carter

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 18:25:39 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Engine pics up and parts pics too!!!

You have to admit, the kitchen sink is a great place to clean your heads.
Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: Engine pics up and parts pics too!!!


>I love it... Rebuilt engine in the LIVING ROOM!!!! No better place to
work!!
>
>I thought I was the only one crazy enough to use the living room..
>actually, it took the living room, dining room, kitchen, family room etd..
>
>Enjoy
>
>Al Varhus
>Columbus, Ohio
>http://www.infinet.com/~avar
>http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
>Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
>  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
>  Gem City Rockets
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 18:30:48 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: buying car

i left him 100 today and i'll be back to pick it up saturday and pay him the
2100.  so saturday i guess i'll have a new ride.  i haven't seen the car yet.
my dad stopped by after work.  the vin number is 344870e190303.  the car has
had a recent paint job.  the interior is going to need replacing soon though.

mike

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 17:46:27 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Questions about adjusting QuadraJet

> You can get the jets from Edelbrock as their Performer
>carb is based on the Q-Jet and uses interchangeable jets/rods with some Q-
>Jets, but call and ask for confirmation (because I am not 100% certain of
>interchange).
>
Not doubting Karl but I always thought the Edelbrock carbs were based on
the old Carter AFB.  They look identical (OK, so one's silver and ones gold)
and I thought I read somewhere that Edelbrock bought the rights to the
AFB's.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 16:55:53 -0700
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: RE: Bushing kit - without a spring compressor

> I am guessing that you are talking about a pickle fork? At least
> that's what I have always called it. It looks like an oversized tuning
> fork. What about the springs? Will I need a spring compressor to
> relieve the front springs? What about the Caster settings? Will I need
> to get the front end aligned again even if I get the spacers back
> where they were?
> ==
> Rock-Man's Page

Rock-Man,

I am right in the middle of this very same thing.  I'm installing
Polygraphite bushings from PST.  I didn't use a spring compressor to get the
springs out, but it was pretty tricky.

Here's what I did:

1) Put front end on Jack Stands.

2) Remove Fenders and Fender Wells and get everything out of the way.  This
isn't absolutely necessary, but it makes it easier to get in there with the
hammer and the ball joint separator (pickle fork).

3) remove Tires, Sway Bar, & Tie Rods, and whatever else might be in the
way.

4) Undo Brake lines

5) Place floor jack securely under lower shock mount on lower A-arm.  Jack
it up till there is slight pressure on the lower A-arm, compressing the
spring slightly.  Make sure the jack is perpendicular to the car, so that it
can slide in towards the car.  If you don't, when you're letting it down
later, it will tip over on you which could cause you pain.

6) Remove castle nut that holds Lower Ball joint on.  Leave top one on, but
break it loose.

7) separate lower ball joint with pickle fork.

8) Separate Upper ball joint with pickle fork.

9) with brave buddy helping you, have him/her hold brake assembly while you
ever-so-slowly let the jack down a bit.  If the ball joints are holding on,
and the lower A-arm isn't coming with the jack, STOP and jack it back up
till it contacts.  Always maintain contact between the jack and the A-arm!
Then work the pickle fork back in there and work the ball joints loose
again. You may have to do this 1/4" at a time.

10) As soon as you get the brake assembly off and out of the way, it might
be a good idea to wrap an old blanket around the spring and tie it on with
some cord.  That will absorb a lot of the energy if it gets loose on you.  I
didn't find this necessary, but I'd do it to be safe.

11) Undo the top shock bolt

12) Slowly let the jack down, inch at a time, until it is all the way down.
Stand off to the side while you're doing this, but make sure you keep the
jack perpendicular so it doesn't tip.  If you get to the bottom and the jack
is stuck, have your brave buddy grab a pry bar and pry the A-arm up just
enough to get the jack out, then slowly let it down.  If the springs aren't
at full extension (and they probably won't be), take the floor jack and put
it under the frame just in front of the jack stand.  Jack the car up until
the Lower A-arm comes off the ground.  At that point the spring will be as
far extended as the A-arms will let it be.  It doesn't have enough spring
left in it to hurt you.

13) undo the lower shock bolts and turn the shock so that you can push it up
into the spring.  You won't be able to pull it out the bottom, because of
the angle of things.

14) Use the pry bar (or a claw hammer like I did) to pop the bottom of the
spring out of the cradle in the Lower A-arm.  This is where I got the most
jumpy, because I didn't know if the spring was going to pop out or not.  If
you wrap the spring in a blanket, you shouldn't have any problems at all.

That's all there is to it.  I don't know if you can get the new ones back in
the same way, because I haven't got that far yet.  I may have to break down
and go rent a spring compressor after all. It might also be a good idea to
put step 11 AFTER step 12.  The shock should be able to hold the spring if
something went wrong...

Oh, and as far as your alignment goes, you'll probably need it aligned again
anyway.  I guess it depends on if you're replacing the springs, and whether
it was aligned when you started, and exactly how worn your old bushings are.
New springs and bushings are going to change the geometry up there at least
a little.

Good luck!

Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 18:56:00 -0500
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: bushing install

I put my bushing in the freezer overnight and slight heat on arms went
on fairly easy.
  Butch 68 442  post

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 18:08:09 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: wmachine; there are real racers here

WMACHINES@aol.com wrote:

> I wish people talk about something more Oldsmobile related whether its cars,
> collectibles, clubs or Racing,  especially Racing,  Drag racing that is. I
> think it is important for the new people to understand why this list was
> created by Greg.  I make a comment on racing experience and get three replies
> and then somebody puts a Paging somebody and has a whole slew of comments.  
Is
> this list made up of bench racers or bench enthusiasts or do people actually
> drive and stomp on their cars????  Just my 1.95$ question.  I don't mind
> deleting, but the stupid stuff needs to stop.  If you need some guidance, I
> can provide Oldsmobile digests from day 1 to present.  It all started back in
> 96 and it needs to upgrade itself.
>
> W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
> 72 442 W-30 Race Rocket
> visit http://members.aol.com to see actual cars and Oldsmobile links

  I'm here. Would love to talk drag racing. Have two '67' Cutlass', one street
convertible that runs 12.92 at 99 mph and a drag Supreme that dynoed at 700 
horses
befor spinning a cam bearing on only the second pull, never even got to see the
track . Don't want to take any more bw now but you wanna talk racing, we can 
talk
racing. I enailed you about the convertible earlier.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 18:10:47 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 1987 Cutlass

Robb,
I have used most of their products and have no complaints.  The KYB's are a
good deal and IMHO the next best thing to Koni's but a lot cheaper.  I have
heard that Performance Suspension Components has the bushings cheaper
but I have never dealt with them or know how to contact them.  The PST
bushing work very well and are very quiet and still give a good ride.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

> I have been thinking about buying a PST polygraphite front end kit for
>my Cutlass.  I am also thinking about buying a new centerlink, new rear
sprongs
>and a set of KYB shocks as well.  My question is, what is everyones opinion
of
>PST's products.  If I go with all of this it will cost around $600 in parts
>plus the labor to put it all on.  Any information would be greatly
appreciated.
>
> Robb Yasczak vjtd@grove.iup.edu

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 16:07:48 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Questions about adjusting QuadraJet

mbloomer wrote:
> Not doubting Karl but I always thought the Edelbrock carbs were based on
> the old Carter AFB.  They look identical (OK, so one's silver and ones gold)
> and I thought I read somewhere that Edelbrock bought the rights to the
> AFB's.
> 
> Mike B
> mbloomer@gateway.net



Mike,

Edelbrock offers two series of their Performer Series
carburetors.  They first brought to market "reproductions"
of the Carter AFB.  Then several years ago they began to
offer a Q-Jet "reproduction".  Although I don't believe
they offer a direct replacement Oldsmobile Q-Jet, I wouldn't
think it would require much to adapt a Chevy model to
an Olds for a street/strip type application.  

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 19:26:17 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: buying car

Congrads Mike, looks like a solid project car, Chris

CHRIS SOMMERVILLE
69 442SC
70 442HC
70 W31

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 17:44:19 -0700
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: New Olds Web Page!

I finally got my web page complete enough that I don't have to be
embarrassed about it.  So I guess it's finally time to unveil it to
Oldsmoland.

It's called "The Oldsmobile Underground".  I created it as a place to put
Olds how-to articles that were too long or complicated for inclusion in the
FAQ's.  On it right now, I have the complete plans for making your own '70 -
'72 Cutlass/442 Console Mounting Brackets, drawn by Randy Geisel and myself,
and the nearly complete instructions for installing a Console & Shifter in
your '70 - '72 Cutlass, which task I couldn't have done without the help of
my good friend, Randy G.  I hope to soon have an article on rebuilding the
front end, as I am in the process of doing that on my car now.  I would like
to expand this page and make it useful to everyone.  But to do that, I need
articles from you guys.  There's been so many excellent detailed posts on
the Olds list over the years that would have gone really nice on my page.
If anyone feels inclined to contribute How-to articles to "The Oldsmobile
Underground", please do so.  Also, feel free to give me any suggestions or
comments about the content of my site.  I hope you all like it!

http://www.freeyellow.com/members2/blaines/index.html

Thanks,
Blaine

P.S. - I'll be adding a Links page soon, also, and joining the Olds Banner
Exchange.  Feel free to link to my page.  If you do, send me the address to
yours, and I'll add a link to it.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 18:54:51 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Bushing kit

Just a couple things to add.  Mike says, "Pickle fork bad! Hammer
good!"  What I mean is that for seperating ball joints I hate using
a pickle fork since it just makes a mess when you end up piercing
the ball joint boot (a 1 in 4 chance).  Its an unnecessary tool in most
cases and the easiest way is with a big hammer.  After you have the
wheels off and the car jacked up here's what you do.

1.  Take the nut off of the tie rod end.  Hit the spindle squarely right
where the tie rod goes through it.  The vibration from the hit will unseat
the shaft from its taper and with a couple of well placed hits will fall
out of its own accord.

2.  Loosen the castle nuts for both ball joints and back them off around
1/4".  Jack up the lower A arm slightly, remove the shock, and let it back
down.

3.  Hit the spindle top and bottom and the spring pressure will help
dislodge both ball joints at the same time.  Note that since you took the
tie rod off first you can rotate the spindle back and forth to get better
access to the ball joints (more room to swing).

All that everyone else said is good advice but also since this is your first
time, go ahead and disconnect the brake line and remove the whole
spindle to make life easier on yourself.  Where the hard line goes into the
rubber line, unscrew the hard line then pull the little C clip that holds
the
end of  the rubber line into the bracket.  Also leave the upper and lower

A arm bushings loose until you get the car put back together and sitting
on the ground.  If you tighten them in the wrong position the bushings will
be in a state of twist while the car is sitting at normal ride height.  This
will
stress the bushings all the time and lead to premature failure.  The upper
bushings are fairly easy to tighten with the car on the ground but I usually
ask the guy who is aligning the car to tighten the lower ones while he's
got it over the pit.  They'll usually do it free.  It's best to drive the
car a little
bit before you tighten the upper or lower arms since this lets the car
"settle" to it's normal ride height.  This is often overlooked especially by
people who alter ride height by replacing springs, etc.  Good Luck

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 20:02:15 -0500
From: "Steve C" <cutlass@citlink.net>
Subject: Re: suggested cam choices for small block

Well you assumed wrong . I own a 1985 Olds 442 with the HO 307 that I
completly built to the tune of 300 HP. The cam I use and highly recommend is
Comp Cams 260 H , it is good from idle to 5000 rpm and is about 3 levels
above stock. My car will make quick work out of most SS Monte Carlos or
Mustangs , some say I am being modest about the horspower but I think it is
accurate enough. Hope this helps, For the 350 Olds motor I recommend the
Comp Cams 268 H .
- -----Original Message-----
From: zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu <zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu>
To: Oldsmobile Mailing List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 5:04 PM
Subject: suggested cam choices for small block


>I've got a buddy who is looking to put a high performance cam in his 307
>in his '83 Cutlass.  Does anybody have any suggestions?  What provides
>good power over a broad range in a small-block.  What non-stock cams are
>other's running in their 350's (I'm assuming that noone has actually built
>up a 307 ;-).
>
>
>
>    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
>   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
>  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
> |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
> |  |  |
> |  |  |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
> | / \ |
> |/   \|     1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
>  \   /         (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
>   \ /          http://www.442.com/pierce.html
>    |        1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass Brougham
> (parts car) (307, 4bbl, TH350, 2.14:1, 90k miles)
>      1980 Rover 3500 SD1
>         (215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
> http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/othercars.html
>          1979 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
> (260 V8, 2bbl, TH350)
> http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/79cutlass.html
>      1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
> (389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"
> http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/bonneville.html
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 20:17:19 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: test, thanks Randy!

That is if this hets there!

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com
 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 19:21:22 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: wmachine; there are real racers here

Sorry, but I didn't see a post about racing experience but I sure would have
replied.  I don't have any fast or wildly powerful cars myself but I did jig
up and
finished off quite a few 1/4 milers in the race shop I used to work in.  My
thing
is the wrench turning part because I simply can't afford it.  Right now I'm
planning how to turn my 68 Cutlass into a WC car for the street.  Like Pro
Street but Stock Street? Maybe Street Cup?  Still ain't figured out that
part
yet.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>
>WMACHINES@aol.com wrote:
>
>> I wish people talk about something more Oldsmobile related whether its
cars,
>> collectibles, clubs or Racing,  especially Racing,  Drag racing that is.
I
>> think it is important for the new people to understand why this list was
>> created by Greg.  I make a comment on racing experience and get three
replies
>> and then somebody puts a Paging somebody and has a whole slew of
comments.  Is
>> this list made up of bench racers or bench enthusiasts or do people
actually
>> drive and stomp on their cars????  Just my 1.95$ question.  I don't mind
>> deleting, but the stupid stuff needs to stop.  If you need some guidance,
I
>> can provide Oldsmobile digests from day 1 to present.  It all started
back in
>> 96 and it needs to upgrade itself.
>>
>> W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
>> 72 442 W-30 Race Rocket
>> visit http://members.aol.com to see actual cars and Oldsmobile links
>
>  I'm here. Would love to talk drag racing. Have two '67' Cutlass', one
street
>convertible that runs 12.92 at 99 mph and a drag Supreme that dynoed at 700
horses
>befor spinning a cam bearing on only the second pull, never even got to see
the
>track . Don't want to take any more bw now but you wanna talk racing, we
can talk
>racing. I enailed you about the convertible earlier.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 18:14:42 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!(kind of long)

     First off, sorry about the accident.  I know how much that sucks.
 Now for the "helpful" information.
     
     My 1970 Cutlass got hit last January.  It was parked in front of
my buddy's house.  I wasn't even in the thing.  Some guy from New York
City driving a huge delivery truck backed into the left rear quarter
panel.  Mashed it in pretty bad.  The adjuster gave me $975 for the
damage.  The car is in the bodyshop right now.  It's been there since
August 24th.  Still gonna be there for about 2-3 more weeks.  The
quarter panel alone cost $650.  After labor it's gonna cost over
$1500.  Also, since my paint was original, it was faded and not very
glossy, the paint on that quarter wasn't going to match the rest of
the car. If I wanted to have the car look good, I had to have the
whole thing painted. I'm getting a good job done, so that is costing
me an additional $2350 (not including all new weatherstripping, which
came out to about $280).  The total cost for my car is going to be
around $4200.  The insurance company will probably cover the approx.
$1500 cost for the quarter panel repair, but the difference of $2700 I
have to pay for out of my pocket.  You bet your a** that I'm taking
this to my lawyer.  Also, the guy never reported it, so his Insurance
Company keeps sending me sh*t saying that they are not at fault, even
though he got cited, my car was parked, and I faxed them All of the
information, including a copy of the police report.
 
=======>>    Here's the most important part.  Be ready for the woman's
insurance company to claim that you were half at fault, or even more. 
They don't give a rat's a** about you, they'll do anything to keep
from paying you.  Whatever you do, don't settle for less than you
deserve.  If you have to go to a lawyer, include his/her fees in your
claim.  Good luck, I hope you have a better experience than I have.

Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe (currently being fixed)
1978 Subaru GF - winter beater with a HUGE 97ci (has about as much
power as a riding lawnmower)
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 18:41:07 -0800 (PST)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: New web-page

Hi gang,
        I've posted a new page showing some improvements and custom
120 speedo decals. If anyone has not received their decal, please be
patient, I made the improvements and they are on the way.
         Thanks,
               Sman
 oh...almost forgot.... http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/speedos


==
John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com  
  ICQ # 16956740      Lithia Springs, Ga.
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442 
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts    
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 18:41:12 PST
From: "Peter Vollemans" <rocket403@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 1987 Cutlass

>	I have been thinking about buying a PST polygraphite front end kit 
for 
my Cutlass.  I am also thinking about buying a new centerlink, new rear 
sprongs and a set of KYB shocks as well.  My question is, what is 
everyones opinion of PST's products.  If I go with all of this it will 
cost around $600 in parts plus the labor to put it all on.  Any 
information would be greatly appreciated.
>
>			Robb Yasczak		vjtd@grove.iup.edu
>

Robb,
I use PST parts on my 86 Cutlass.  I bought the super performance front 
end rebuild kit, rear suspension kit, front and rear sway bars, and KYB 
shocks.  I also bought Hotchkis sport springs (lowers car 1-1/2")  I am 
very happy with the results.  The car now handles beautifully.  And the 
springs gave it an agressive stance.  The polygraphite bushing don't 
squeek unless it is very cold.  I think you will be very happy with PST. 


Peter Vollemans
86 Cutlass Supreme 307/200-R4


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 19:53:50 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: metal in oil, ASAP HELP

Crap.  I just went to the bodyshop to see the hood-induction that was put in
my Delta.  The car was outside so I decided to fire it up and see how it
runs (did not see it run in 1.5 months).  I checked the oil before I did
(that car was cold, sat for two days) and I saw a bunch of shiny metal like
floaters in the oil.  I did it again and same thing every time I pull the
dipstick.  The motor is 500 miles old.  I changed the oil a couple of times
since start up.  Motor runs good, smooth.  What the hell could it be.  One
thing it could be is the CHROME dipstick I put in (the only dipstick I could
find for olds).  It seams to flake at the top, when I run my finger on it,
same particles. But I assume that it could also be bearings or rings.  What
do I do.  There are metal shavings all over the engine compartment from
cutting the hood, but regardless, how the hell could it have gotten in.  On
a brand new motor, is it normal to have particles during break in or is the
oil filter supposed to trap them all.  There is no oil consumption or
anything.  Please help, I am freaking here.  After I ran it for a little
while (decided to take the risk) the particles were less but still there.  I
seriously believe that it could be the dipstick, but I don't know.  I hope
so.  On Saturday (have two test in school tomorrow and Friday) I am going
down there and changing the oil/filter again.  It has not been driven at
all, except start and move out of shop, and back in.  Oh, man.  It is a 9.5
CR. 455. HELP, ASAP, make me feel better so that I can study.  Thanks.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/propane/200-4r)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (367/727/4.10s)

igor455@home.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 18:55:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: what sealant for tranny pan?

  Maybe you should try using a different brand gasket.  I have always
had problems with Fram products.  As far as a sealant, If you have a
gasket, you shouldn't need any, but if you still want to use some (I
do) I reccomend something made by Permatex.  I've used their blue
stuff and black stuff(I don't remember exactly what they're
called)with much success.  I've never had a leak when using these. 
Also, maybe a stupid question, but are you tightening the pan evenly
(kind of like putting on a wheel)in a star type of a
pattern(alternating sides)?  If the bolts aren't evenly tightened, you
could end up with a slight twisting effect on the pan, which creates a
small gap, not necessarily big enough to see, but just big enough for
fluid to leak out.  Finally, is the contact surface on the new pan
perfectly flat?  Especially check at the bolt holes.  If the areas
near the bolt holes are pushed in, those parts will bottom out before
the rest of the pan gets a good seal.  This could be caused by
over-tightening, or even in the manufacturing process fron the hole
punches.  You might want to bang these parts out a bit, to make the
surface flatter.  This will allow the bolts to pull the pan in closer
for a better seal.

Good Luck,

Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
sgadecki@yahoo.com





_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 22:16:45 EST
From: DKlauber@aol.com
Subject: Another Olds overheating-need h*lp

I took my 70 W-30 conv to the mechanic to get an opinion on an oil leak, and
he also said it was running hot because the fan clutch was not engaging.  He
also added some coolant.  When I got home it was hotter than ever and leaked
all over the garage once I shut it off.  I then replaced the fan clutch last
weekend, and its still running hot.  I talked to the guy I bought it from and
he thinks that it is the 3:91 rear that is doing it, but even with that I
think I should be able to drive more than 10 miles at 2500-3000 rpm without it
overheating.  The car is a near perfect frame off restoration, but I'm getting
P.O.'d since I can't drive it to any shows lately.  Temps in Phoenix currently
about 50-mid 70 range.  Any ideas????  Thanks
David OCA #30416
1970 442 W-30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 22:21:16 -0500
From: "howardh" <howardh@magicnet.net>
Subject: More Quadrajet Questions

Seeing the thread on quadrajets lately starts me to thinking it's time to
rebuild or check out what's not perfect with mine. I have a few questions
for anyone with answers.
I've heard people say I have the "electronic" QJ on my car ('84 H/O). What
do they mean, and is that correct. What's the difference?  Whenever my car
sits for more than a day, it may take 10-15 seconds of cranking to start. Is
that the typical plug leakage at bottom of float bowls? In other words
having to pump gas up to carb cause there's none there.
Whenever I turn  off my car, I get a strong smell of gas. Any common traits
here? Also, when car is not fully warm, if I give it a little throttle in
neutral to warm it up quicker, it tends to then stall after I pick my foot
up off pedal. Seems like it's loading up with gas. Are these items (other
than the plugs needing to be sealed) that will come out with a rebuild and
proper adjustment or is there something else I should be looking at?
             ___        ___    __
            /     /         /    /   /    /
           /     /         /    /   /    /
          /     /____/    /   /    /    ________
         /   HURST   /   /    /   /    _____   \
        /     /      /      /   /    /   /   /             \    \
       /     /      /     /   /    /   /   /                 \   \
      /__ /      /_  /   /    /   /   /  OLDS     /   /
                            /    /    \   \                /   /
                           /    /      \   \______/   /
                          /__/         \ _______/

Howard Hosenbold
howardh@magicnet.net
ICQ-2229348
1984 Hurst Olds

http://www.442.com/howardh.html

http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/hosen/
Production # 2748
OCA # 024551
OCA # 1259
OCF # 24551

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 21:29:12 -0600
From: Albert Meyer <Olds@AustinTX.net>
Subject: RE: Window motor question

Thanks for the helpful replies. I did check with my tester light and there
is power to the motor when I push the switch. I had considered pulling the
whole mechanism, but I'm kind of leery of that, because there are three or
four tracks which bolt to various locations on the body, and I'm concerned
that I might not be able to get it back together if I dismantle the whole
thing. Also, some of the bolts have some sort of goop on them which appears
to be intended to discourage removal. Is this really as complicated as it
appears, or am I missing something?

At 09:30 AM 11/4/98 -0800, you wrote:
>One way to go at this is to take that same 7/16's wrench and remove the nuts
>which secure the entire window assembly to the body. Once every thing is
>loose,
>you can probably remove the motor. Again, after securing the position of the
>window.

>> I assume you've verified that it's getting power, too? The wiring
>> circuit is pretty complex through the switches but there should be
>> some juice getting through to the connector going to the motor.

'68 98 Convertible 455 - Still looking for a parts car
Austin, Texas mailto:Olds@AustinTX.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 21:29:10 -0600
From: "John Kreitzer" <john.kreitzer@gte.net>
Subject: Re: Another Olds overheating-need h*lp

I would make sure all of the seals are around the radiator, sides and top
corners. Just try to make sure all the air you are getting is going through
the radiator and not around it. Also, I learned from the list that you need
to make sure the flaps that cover the A-Arms are in place as the air will go
right past the engine and out the sides of the fenders. My $.02

John

- -----Original Message-----
From: DKlauber@aol.com <DKlauber@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 9:22 PM
Subject: Another Olds overheating-need h*lp


>I took my 70 W-30 conv to the mechanic to get an opinion on an oil leak,
and
>he also said it was running hot because the fan clutch was not engaging.
He
>also added some coolant.  When I got home it was hotter than ever and
leaked
>all over the garage once I shut it off.  I then replaced the fan clutch
last
>weekend, and its still running hot.  I talked to the guy I bought it from
and
>he thinks that it is the 3:91 rear that is doing it, but even with that I
>think I should be able to drive more than 10 miles at 2500-3000 rpm without
it
>overheating.  The car is a near perfect frame off restoration, but I'm
getting
>P.O.'d since I can't drive it to any shows lately.  Temps in Phoenix
currently
>about 50-mid 70 range.  Any ideas????  Thanks
>David OCA #30416
>1970 442 W-30 Conv.
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 98 22:44:24 EST
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: 455 running very rich... Questions about adjusting Holley carb.

At 10:09 PM 11/3/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Don't mean to step on anyones toes here but here's how I've been taught to
>adjust idle mixture screws, starting fom scratch.
>With engine off, turn both sides (screws) all the way in (gently). Then back
>them out 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns. Start the car. Go back and adjust one side at 
at
>a time, slowly turn the screws in or out until you find the spot that gives 
you
>the highest idle. Once you get one side done do the same on the other side. Go
>from side to side a couple of times and just make sure you get it at the
>highest idle after each adjustment. This will give you a leaner condition. You
>may need to adjust your idle screw out a little to get your idle down where 
you
>want it after these adjustments.
>A problem you may have after leaning out your carb if you have a big cam and
>stock convertor is when you put it in gear the engine will die. In this case
>you would need to richen (turn out the screws) the circuit back up a little
>until the car will run in gear.


    Do you want to make this adjustment on a cold engine or after it has
gone to a warm up?

    Thanks,
    
    Glenn
    '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 22:57:21 -0500 (EST)
From: jhbII <jh2nlla@noblecan.org>
Subject: SUPPORT

Hi List, I knew I forgot someone. How about Everett Horton and all his
knowledge on the "bigger" cars. I saw Everett's display at the Nationals and
he has alot of stuff,and very helpful too.
On another note, has anyone recieved their JWO?Seems like it is about 2
weeks late. Hope they didn't forget me!   Jack

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 22:58:44 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: 455 running very rich... Questions about adjusting Holley carb.

I've learned that rule of thumb as well, about 1.5 turns out from all the
way in is a good place to start, and quite often a god place to remain.
Both of mine are set quite close to that setting.



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Glenn Connors
Sent: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 10:44 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: 455 running very rich... Questions about adjusting Holley
carb.


At 10:09 PM 11/3/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Don't mean to step on anyones toes here but here's how I've been taught to
>adjust idle mixture screws, starting fom scratch.
>With engine off, turn both sides (screws) all the way in (gently). Then
back
>them out 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns. Start the car. Go back and adjust one side
at at
>a time, slowly turn the screws in or out until you find the spot that gives
you
>t

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1588
*********************************

