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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1537


oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, October 7 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1537



backseat removal
Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)
Re: backseat removal
November '98 Issue Thoughts
Re: 64 Oldsmobile Starfire - brake booster
RE: backseat removal
tossed some parts...
Re: MSD Ignition opinions desired
Alldata CD-ROMs
Re: backseat removal
RE: backseat removal
Muscle dealers
Re: 64 Oldsmobile Starfire - brake booster
Re: Wax {Sliced Bread} - Chrome shiner
Re: BAD Olds Owners (Long)
A4 intake DOES FIT '84 & earlier heads! + 1976 carb?
To D. Brown and others: Question - diff additive
B body to A body dash swap
Olds Tri-power
Cutlass S Dash Pad
10-bolt rears
Re: Fw: '67 heads on '68-newer block
Re: Olds Tri-power
Re: Olds Tri-power
Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)
Heater core replacement
RE: Cutlass S Dash Pad
Re: Olds Tri-power
H/O & 442 Collection
Re: G-Body Header Panel Questions:
Re: 69 Cutlass grill color
UNBOUNCE: Need '64 Front Wheel Opening Molding
Re: 69 Cutlass grill color
Re: 69 Cutlass grill color
hood ornaments and console parts.
RE: hood ornaments and console parts.
Re: A4 intake was: '84 & earlier heads, will they fit? (87 olds)
Re: Cutlass S Dash Pad
Re: Olds Tri-power
Repro H/O emblems
Re: Heater core replacement
Re: Olds Tri-power
Re: Olds Tri-power
Re: H/O & 442 Collection
Re: Repro H/O emblems
Re: Heater core replacement
Re: Repro H/O emblems
Re: Heater core replacement
RE: Alldata CD-ROMs
Re: Repro H/O emblems
olds gears
Re: G-Body Header Panel Questions:
Re: Engine Rebuild
Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)
Re: Engine Rebuild
Re: tossed some parts, Blaine...
Re: G-Body Tail Light Questions:
Re: G-Body Header Panel Questions:
Re: TH-200-C
tragic story
Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)
Re: Engine Rebuild
Re: F-41 Cutlass
Re: Engine Rebuild

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 12:12:28 -0700
From: Andrew Kunzie <Akunzie@mediaone.net>
Subject: backseat removal

I have a 1970 442 I am trying to retrieve my build sheet from under the
rear seat.  I can see it but I can't quit reach it.  Could any give me
any suggestions on how to remove the rear seat?  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 12:11:32 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)

Someting to remember to do while the oil pan's off and you're changing the
timing chain:  THOROUGHLY CLEAN OR REPLACE THE OIL PUMP PICKUP SCREEN!  I've
been in this position and didn't do this, only to have the oil pump fail in
Flagstaff, AZ while I was in route to Southern California from Kansas City.
It really sucks to be not only stranded, but stranded and no access to
tools...............

Best of luck with your ongoing project, and Take Care!
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 12:18:47 EDT
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: Re: backseat removal

i dont know if the 70 is the same but to take out the back seat in my 82 there
are 2 clips on the botom of the seat that should just pop right out when you
pull up on the seat as for the the the part of the seat that you would put yor
back against there are 2 bolts on the bottom that you must remove then there
are 2 clips on the top where if you just slide the seat up they should pop out
but they might not be the same.  Anyone else know if they are similar or are
they a little different
															
Rich	
82 cutlass supreme
85 cutlass supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 12:21:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: November '98 Issue Thoughts

In your list of engines and manufacturers on page 24 you do Oldsmobile a
great disservice by omitting the 260, 303, 324, 330, 371, 394, 403 and
425 ci engines.

With respect to G-Body build ups here are some additional thoughts on a
'79 Cutlass with a 455 Oldsmoble engine.
	1.  Use only an air conditioned car.  The 455 block will not fit
with the underhood heater plenum of a non-air conditioned car.
	2.  To remove pushrods or head bolts (passenger side) is
impossible without removal of the engine or drilling a few well placed
holes in the heater-a/c plenum.
	3.  Headers do not fit without #4 tube going around the frame
which results in about a 2" loss of steering - both sides.
	4.  Most accessory brackets from a small block (ie 260,350,403)
are a bolt on except for a/c due to the greater width of the big block.
	5.  215/60x15 are the largest tires for the front if the vehicle
has been lowered.
	6.  3" true dual exhaust is a bolt in except for head pipe to
exhaust pipe adaptor.  A dual hump cross member(early 70's) needs only minor
modifications to work fine. The drive shaft needs to be shortened about
an inch with a TH400 tranny.  KTRE makes a great 12 bolt rear swap.
	7.  It is a fun and easy swap and too cool on the street.

ROCKET POWER IS ALIVE AND WELL!

TAKE A PEEK AT THE URL BELOW FOR FULL SPECS - I DARE YA  :-)


Al Varhus, Esq.
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 12:14:09 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: 64 Oldsmobile Starfire - brake booster

Stephen M White wrote:

> When the brakes are applied the engine revs drop (cuts out when cold!) and
> gets
> choppy, and there is a deep continuous hissing sound, the pedal height
> remains constant. Does this mean there is an air leak in the booster?

        Yes.  Long ago when I had a Chevy Cavalier (the reason I USED to be a
Chevy guy!!!) I had this problem and the engine would die at any temp.  I had
to depress both the brake and gas at the same time to keep the engine from
stalling.  Boosters are pretty easy to replace.

        Have fun,

        Thomas P. Smith
        1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 10:37:41 -0600
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: RE: backseat removal

I took mine out of my '72 about 3 years ago, and it wasn't that difficult.
Getting it back in, however was a b*tch.  I gave up and left it just sitting
there where it's been ever since.  I believe you just push down and back on
the bottom cushion and it'll pop up.  Could be wrong about that, though...

- -blaine

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 10:41:53 -0600
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: tossed some parts...

I finally tossed some '73 #8 heads and 4-bbl manifold into the junk trailer
last night.  I didn't figure anyone would want them.  However, if someone
does, I can probably get them out.  You just pay shipping.  I don't know if
they are even any good, but if anyone wants to take the chance, lemme know
before the weekend.

P.S. - I live in UT, so shipping to most of you guys would be a fortune...

- -Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 11:56:04 -0400
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: MSD Ignition opinions desired

I would never had spent the money for a MSD box, but got the MSD-6AL
as a gift.  Basically it sends 480 volts to your coil instead of the
stock 12volts, has a built in capacitor to hold more "juice", and
sends multiple sparks to the plugs at low rpms.  And the rev limiter
is a nice touch.

I had a problem of crud in the carburetor that I thought was an
ignition problem.  It was running really rough.  I took the MSD out to
help troubleshoot and the car ran a lot worse.  After reinstalling it,
the car started faster and idled better.

I was running a Mallory Unilte with MSD blaster2 coil.  I was getting
arcing inside the cap that was misfiring the sparks plugs.  I decided
to go with an HEI setup.  Interestingly the MSD6-AL will trigger an
HEI distributor.  You basically rip out the electrical module and
stuff out of the distributor and hook up a two wire connector
(included with the MSD) to the HEI's magnetic pickup.  I used MSD's
HEI coil also for the most spark. I used a Summit racing advance
spring setup too ($4.50).

Now I went from 10mpg to 14mpg and the car is a lot faster.  I'm still
playing with the advance, so there's still room for improvement.

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 13:13:00 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Alldata CD-ROMs

Has anyone on the list ordered one of the Alldata CD-ROM sets for their car?  I
was thinking of ordering one, but does anyone here recommend or ~not~ recommend
them?

Thanks.

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 10:34:47 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: backseat removal

Andrew Kunzie wrote:

> I have a 1970 442 I am trying to retrieve my build sheet from under the
> rear seat.  I can see it but I can't quit reach it.  Could any give me
> any suggestions on how to remove the rear seat?  Thanks.

 Andrew,
To remove your rear seat, you'll first need to remove the
lower cushion.  It is held in place by two brackets welded
to the floorpan that attach to the frame of the seat.
(The spring pressure of the seat is what keeps
it in place).  You'll have to push the lower part of the seat
back and up at the same time to free it from the brackets.
To remove the upper portion of the seat, remove the two bolts
located at the base of the seat, and lift it up from the hooks
that attach it near the package tray.

Reverse procedure to install.
(Don't forget to pull the seat belts up before installing
the lower cushion).

Hope this helps.

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 10:47:40 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: backseat removal

> I took mine out of my '72 about 3 years ago, and it wasn't that
> difficult. Getting it back in, however was a b*tch.

To remove the seat bottom, unhook the two "ears" of the frame at
the front by pushing the cushion rearwards, then lift it up and
out. It is _not_ easy and you have to push it rearwards pretty
hard to clear the two hooks before the front will come up.

To reinstall, hook the front ears in first, then swing the rear
down into place. Pull the seat belt tabs and buckles up onto the
seat before pushing the back edge in all the way.

Depending on how flexible the bottom cushion is, you can also
put it in by putting the back edge in place first, then pressing
rearwards to hook the front ears back into place.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 14:02:39 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Muscle dealers

Thought maybe somebody'd find this interesting:
http://www.detnews.com/menu/stories/45322.htm
- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 10:56:48 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: 64 Oldsmobile Starfire - brake booster

> Does this mean there is an air leak in the booster? Isn't
> this supposed to be a vacuum? I checked hoses to manifold etc. did notice
> that the hose had been replaced and that the one in use is "fuel line"
> grade.
> __________
>
> This means there's a big-time vac leak.  Since it only happens when the
> brakes are applied, chances are good that the diaphragm is shot.  Time to
> get the booster rebuilt.
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com

Stephen,
After installing the new booster, be sure to replace
that incorrect fuel hose with the proper D.O.T.
spec. hose that is designed for power brakes.
Fuel hose is designed for pressure,
not vacuum.  Power brake hose is a much thicker
walled reinforced hose that will not collapse
under vacuum like fuel hose will.

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 12:14:58 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Wax {Sliced Bread} - Chrome shiner

Off content: What the greates thing BEFORE SLICED Bread??

Andrew C. Green wrote:
>
> Beg, borrow or steal Westley's Bleche-Wite. Requires no scrubbing;
> just spray on a _dry_ tire, let soak, blast with high pressure
> spray, admire results. Greatest thing since sliced bread.

On Content: Speaking of scrub-free shine, aluminum brightener (fancy way
to say acid) makes Olds-crhome pretty shiny with no work.  My dad get's
it in bulk, cheap, strong form from an auto-body shop, but I believe
Candian Tire sells a diluted, inflated-price version


Eric

http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/eric.shtml

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 12:33:38 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: BAD Olds Owners (Long)

Well, thanx for putting a damper on my day, but you'll be happy to know
that some people follow a few rules about Olds-Gold:
1) Only sell to people who will at least use / maybe appreciate the car
(Bought my 72 98 from a guy who wanted to make sure, luckily he seemed
confident I wouldn't just chop it up for the motor)
2) IF you are going to abuse / destroy a car for fun, at least take one
that's already worn out, then salvage any useable stuff afterwards so
that others may live (Home-made convertables are fun, and afterwards,
parts are still around, for example..)

Olds Omega wrote:
>
> I want to sell it (at this point
> I'm think TO ME, SELL IT TO ME) so that I can buy a (sigh) HONDA
> PRELUDE or SUBARU IMPREZZA, but my parents won't let me." I had heard
> enough at that point and left, just completly WALKED away.  BASTARD!

No kidding, 'mommy made me suffer with this classic', I feal for you, so
hard done by, no wonder why people call people my age lazy and whiny, it
appears as though some of them are. {Flame me not please}

> Anyway, I had to see this thing
> and sure enough, there it is with the 4.0 tattoed on the top of the
> fuel injected Fucked Over Reconditioned Dodge engine.  I almost
> started to cry.  And to top it off, the guy had but Cobra emblems on
> the side and trunk of the Cutlass... It's a cruel world.

Gives new meaning to 'Bleed The FREAK'

Eric Aksomitits
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/eric.shtml

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 14:38:40 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: A4 intake DOES FIT '84 & earlier heads! + 1976 carb?

In a message dated 98-10-07 08:47:32 EDT, you write:

<<All 84 and older 307, 350 and 403's use the same port size for the intake.
 >>
 >> 85 and up used a size more like the 260 did.  (READ: TINY!).
 >
 >Correction:  You mean 86 and up. >>

Karl thanks T.M. and others for verifying this.

Faster E.T.s?
Use an intake 20 lbs lighter with modern (1980s) passages!
Karl did see an A4 intake at Oldsmobile Homecoming Swap Meet for $75.
On the way back to Chi-town, one was found in a late-model yarde for $25!
Do NOT pay more for this intake!!


So ~no-one~ has owned a 1976 Cutlass Salon??
OR no-one with such a car is willing to read the triangular tag for Karl?

Karl figures that 17056250 is likely to be the first DualJet, while 17056251
~might~ be a 750cfm (NOT an 850cfm!!) Q-Jet.

Anyone???

Thanks.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 14:38:43 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: To D. Brown and others: Question - diff additive

I hope Dave will forgive me, I thought others would benefit

<< I replaced the gear oil in the Dakota with synthetic. In doing so I needed
to add a couple ounces of "anti-spin additive". My question is, what is
"severely hydrated petroleum oil"? That's what the bottle says are the
ingredients. Most likely petroleum oil is a bunch of things, like a molecule
is a bunch of different atoms.

I'm still wondering if that stuff is slipperier than regular gear oil. Sort of
along the lines that synthetic is much better then gear oil, so just it could
be used. For me there's that warranty thing to worry about, so I paid them
their $7 randsom. >>

I imagine the use of the term "petroleum" in the name references a recent post
by me about benzene in gasoline.

Petroleum has something in common with coal. Yes, they will both burn. But
they are both believed to be the end result of decayed organic matter. To wit:
Fossil Fuels.

Petroleum is an assortment of organic compounds (I think). These organic
compounds would necessarily vary in size and weight, just as the variety of of
organisms that died and decomposed varied. My point is not to cause nausea,
but to oint out diversity of origin of the components of Fossil Fuels.

The name "petroleum oil" brings to mind a recollection from college of
"petroleum ether" which smelled bad.

So, "Petroleum" is a liquid made up of various organic species which resulted
from decaing life forms.

These would naturally vary in size and weight.

To Produce gasoline, the Oil companies would distill it and carefully select
the fraction of distillate which would contain certain flammable properties
for gasoline, which may include some benzene [bad 4 you] depending on the
variety of chemical species in the original petroleum.

On to "petroleum oil". Sounds like this is stuff of a heavier weight than the
gasoline fraction. And Karl can guess at the severely hydrated part, too.

In a way, I have already answered that, in the snake oil thread!

Acids are slippery!

Any form of the word "hydrate" necessarily refers to water!

For proper acids and bases, there must be water. This is because water
provides the most stable form of acid (the Hydrogen ion (+) in a "solvent
cage" of water molcules for stability) or basic (again, the OH ion (-) in a
"solvent cage" of water molecules for stability) media!

In short, the petroleum oil contains water to MAKE it slippery!

Karl thinks!

Please do not sue any one or do anything harmfull with this information, as it
may only be a hallucination from...

Karl Aune
&Soylent Ocean Mist

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 14:49:47 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <jlabay@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: B body to A body dash swap

Does anyone know the width in general of a late 70 on up B-body dash? I have a
complete 96 Impala SS dash I would like to retrofit into my 72 Cutlass Supreme.
My dash in the 72 measures somewhere inbetween 55-57 inches wide. Oh and I am
not cutting up a gem, this 72 Cutlass Supreme has a salvage title anyway, if I
did actually restore it to original it would be worth $5.00 due to the salvage
title from my experience :-) Thanks

Jason Labay  Akron, OH jlabay@neo.lrun.com
http://home.neo.lrun.com/jlabay

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 14:58:07 EDT
From: "Norm Baier" <nbaier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Olds Tri-power

Hello To The List!

I'm a new member and been lurking for a few days and reading the FAQ.
Finally need

to ask the question. Can a 57-58 vintage Olds tri-carb intake (I assume
this is also

known as the J-2, please correct me if I am mistaken) be used with a
later model

(1966 and up) engine... specifically a 400 (or 455), or does the fact
that the older

manifold uses a valley cover preclude that? TIA

Norm Baier
Woodstock, GA

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 13:02:27 -0600
From: Art Pforr <artp@iem.com>
Subject: Cutlass S Dash Pad

I need some help with how to remove the dash pad from a 68 Cutlass S. I want
to send it off to be redone.
IEM, Inc.
Art Pforr
Field Service Engineer
Hardware Technical Support
Phone 970-221-3005
Fax 970-221-3709
artp@iem.com
http://www.iem.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 13:06:46 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: 10-bolt rears

I have a 2.56 open rear 10-bolt from a '76 Delta 88.  It was okay when I
drove the car.  Is it worth anything.  I am willing to give it away (I live
in Calgary, Alberta, Can).  I also have a 10-bolt 2.41 posi from '81 Delta.
I would like to hold on to this one in case I need to go on the highway on a
long trip with my 455 (not to mention cruise speed of 120 mph)  I don't
think it is worth much.  Anyway, if anyone wants the 2.56, feel free.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/propane/th2004r)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 11:57:27 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: '67 heads on '68-newer block

Mike Jones wrote:

>  I know Olds utilized different CBA's (Cam Bank Angles) in their motors (45
>  in earlier motors, 39 in '68-newer).
>  I have a pair of C heads and an intake from a '67 442.  Would there be a
>  problem putting said top-end on a later ('68+) big block?  I ask because
>  I'm not quite sure which motors had which CBAs.  I think Toros had the 39
>  deg. CBA with .921 lifters, and RWDs had 45 deg. CBAs with .842 lifters.
>  The E-block 400 had .921 lifters I think.  They were big.

Mike,
68 and 69 400's and 455's used the C heads as well as the 67 400.
These are all 39 degree blocks.  As are all 68 and newer Olds V8's.
- --
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 15:13:44 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds Tri-power

Guys? I got this one.

<< to ask the question. Can a 57-58 vintage Olds tri-carb intake (I assume
 this is also known as the J-2, please correct me if I am mistaken) be used
with a
 later model  (1966 and up) engine... specifically a 400 (or 455), or does the
fact
 that the older manifold uses a valley cover preclude that? TIA >>

Answer: UH-UH

The 1965 BBs (or 1964 SB/s where 330s are concerned) are totally different
from the small blocks that were used until 1964.

In fact if you are referencing the 1957-58 J-2 intake, that will ONLY fit the
371 (1957-1962 or so) engine and not the 394 that was avail 1961-1964 (or
whenever).

For 1965 and on BB's, (which inclide 400, 425, 455's) there is a tri-power
intake, but it was only available on 1966 W-30 4 4 2's or over the counter
from dealerships n 1967 (not a factory option).

Karl is VERY interested in any info you have concerning the 1957-58 J-2
intake!
Please Email me Privately with any questions!

SOM

&KA
KarlAune@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 15:19:10 EDT
From: WOODY3781@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds Tri-power

The J-2 was a 371 engine made only in 56-57 or 57-58, not too sure which
years.
It put out 312 horse. I believe they made a higher performance one rated at
320 horse. It was characterized by tripower and kicked Chevy ass at will.
wood

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 15:03:05 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)

New screen is sitting in the kitchen, waiting to be installed.

WHY DON'T THEY PACK THE OIL PUMP FULL OF JELLY _BEOFRE_ YOU BUY IT?

Am I going to buy a can that says "Petroleum Jelly" on it, or am I going to
buy a bottle of Vaseline?

At 12:11 PM 10/7/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Someting to remember to do while the oil pan's off and you're changing the
>timing chain:  THOROUGHLY CLEAN OR REPLACE THE OIL PUMP PICKUP SCREEN!  I've
>been in this position and didn't do this, only to have the oil pump fail in
>Flagstaff, AZ while I was in route to Southern California from Kansas City.
>It really sucks to be not only stranded, but stranded and no access to
>tools...............
>
>Best of luck with your ongoing project, and Take Care!
>Ken Snyder
>Kansas City, Kansas
>
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 13:01:16 -0700
From: Brandon M Rutschmann <cabruts@tscnet.com>
Subject: Heater core replacement

Hello everyone,
	I got home from work today, went in to grab a sandwich came back out 
to my car
and antifreeze all over the ground leaking from the firewall area under the
passenger side.  Needless to say there was also fluid in the passenger foot
area.  So I have a bad Heater Core.  My question to anyone that can help is:
What is the easiest way to replace the Heater core?  I have a 71 Cutlass 
Supreme
350 with A/C.  Thank you for your help.  Brnadon

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 14:14:38 -0600
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: RE: Cutlass S Dash Pad

> I need some help with how to remove the dash pad from a 68
> Cutlass S. I want
> to send it off to be redone.
> IEM, Inc.
> Art Pforr

Art,

First off, let me say, if you don't have a GM service manual, you need one.
There's a wonderful diagram in there that shows all the little nut
locations.

Now, if you've never done a '68 dash, you're looking at 1 - 2 hours of
frustrating work.  It's really not that bad when you know where the bolts
are.  It's been a while since I did this, so I won't be any good at telling
you where they all are.  But I'll give you a hint that may help you, as it
took me a good little while to figure this out.  Once you find and remove
all the nuts, you'll probably try to pull the dash off and won't be able to.
This is because in the top corner on each end there is a threaded (or maybe
it's not, but feels like it is) bolt that doesn't have a nut on the end.
Don't try to fit a socket on this and turn it like I did -- you'll ruin it.
in a little square hole in the dash there resides a clip sorta thing.  This
bolt pushes into it, and doesn't come out.  I'm sure it was done this way
because it's such a pain in the a$$ to get to those two bolts with a socket.
I don't know of any easy way to get the dash off, other than just tugging on
it.  Try to get a buddy to help you tug on the other side so that they come
out together and don't bind or bend.  Does this make sense?  One other
thing:  you can't just take the dash pad off.  You have to remove the lower
dash piece and the radio and all that stuff, too.

Maybe someone on the list has a Service Manual and can copy that page for
you.  I would, but I don't have a '68 or '69 manual.

- -Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 15:13:23 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Tri-power

Woody and all,
Anyone remember a guy named Bob Soucy, Don't know if he belonged to OCA but
he did a lot of shows, 1957 2dr ht, J2, with W1 cam, which I believe had
solid lifters, hence the 320 hp rating. Was from St. Louis area,
Belleville, IL, now he lives in Florida. Cannot find out where. A genius on
early models, 1949 to 1970 years. If anyone knows of him or where he might
be , please respond privately, thanks. Dad took me to the drags and the
Olds kicked the pants off of the dual quad chevies. 3 speed, on the tree.
                                          Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

- ----------
> From: WOODY3781@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Olds Tri-power
> Date: Wednesday, October 07, 1998 2:19 PM
>
> The J-2 was a 371 engine made only in 56-57 or 57-58, not too sure which
> years.
> It put out 312 horse. I believe they made a higher performance one rated
at
> 320 horse. It was characterized by tripower and kicked Chevy ass at will.
> wood

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 13:22:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Olds Omega <oldsomega73@yahoo.com>
Subject: H/O & 442 Collection

I have a small display of car emblems at home consisting of Lambo,
Ferrari, Ducati (grabbed those while I lived in Italy), SS and other
assorted cool emblems from cars.  I wanted to add some H/O and 442
emblems. What is the best place to get them from? Thanks in advance.
Avery




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 16:33:44 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: G-Body Header Panel Questions:

john burris wrote:
>
> BTW, does anyone have a picture of this hood ornament? My colors have long
since faded with the passage of time and space. I would like to repaint it, but
I'd be guessing about what goes where.

Trust me dude, buy a new one.  They're still available.  List price is
around 50 bucks.  But you can probably find a better deal than list.  Up
through 86 they used the same base, 87/88 used a bit longer base, but
the same ornament.

Mike Rothe
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 16:41:23 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: 69 Cutlass grill color

> Do the 69 Olds owners have a silver/gray paint they have used in the
> past to paint the grills/headlight housings? I'd like to come close to
> matching original color, and also get a lasting coat.

Krylon dull aluminum works well.  Really close match.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 17:47:31 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Need '64 Front Wheel Opening Molding

Not on the list, respond to Jose.Trejo@pactel.COM if you can assist. He's
been looking for these for a while, someone must have a set!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Jose.Trejo@pactel.COM
Subject: 64 F-85/CUTLASS

Would anyone happen to have (or know where I can get) the front left & right
fender wheel well mouldings for a 1964 F-85/Cutlass????  Thanks for any
h*lp!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 13:47:23 -0700
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: 69 Cutlass grill color

Mike Rothe. wrote:
>
> > Do the 69 Olds owners have a silver/gray paint they have used in the
> > past to paint the grills/headlight housings? I'd like to come close to
> > matching original color, and also get a lasting coat.
>
> Krylon dull aluminum works well.  Really close match.

I wanted to avoid be slashed by the originality enthusiasts, however,
Frosty's
was painted Argent metallic.  Looks real good to me.  I may just go
ahead and
paint the grille as well.

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 17:51:25 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 69 Cutlass grill color

The standard product for this seems to be Krylon dull aluminum. Worked
very good for me.

Joe's comment on the Krylon semi-black is true, it can get glossier than
you'd like sometimes, but I've noticed that the degree tends to depend
upon the thickness of application and the distance you sprayed from.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 16:50:30 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: hood ornaments and console parts.

Integras and Accords might be able
> to match the horsepower amount, but they have literally half the torque at 5
times the RPM as I > have!  You can't beat 250 lb-ft @ 1600 RPM!


And even if you can't pass em, you surely out-class them!  You CANNOT be
cool without at least owning an Olds once in your life.  Every person
I've ever talked to that USED to own an Olds always had good things to
say about it, some even wish they'd have kept it.

Oh, and about the hood ornaments....1985 was the first year for the
antique Olds logo ornament.  Checked with the dealership.

While I was there, I ALSO found out the console section I was looking
for was available still for 62.00 list.  Of course, ~I~ don't pay
that....So I'll get my console piece after all.  I'm a happy toad now.


Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 14:56:16 -0600
From: Arnold Alvin TSgt <alvin.arnold@schriever.af.mil>
Subject: RE: hood ornaments and console parts.

  G body parts exchange....

  Do the Olds hoods and Buick GN Hoods exchange?  Aluminum <PERK>  I'm
interested in finding something like this...

Louie Arnold
'84 GN
http://www.inergy.com/iraceit

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Mike Rothe. [SMTP:hurstolds@xtalwind.net]
> Sent:	Wednesday, October 07, 1998 2:51 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	hood ornaments and console parts.
>
> Integras and Accords might be able
> > to match the horsepower amount, but they have literally half the torque
> at 5 times the RPM as I
> > have!  You can't beat 250 lb-ft @ 1600 RPM!
>
>
> And even if you can't pass em, you surely out-class them!  You CANNOT be
> cool without at least owning an Olds once in your life.  Every person
> I've ever talked to that USED to own an Olds always had good things to
> say about it, some even wish they'd have kept it.
>
> Oh, and about the hood ornaments....1985 was the first year for the
> antique Olds logo ornament.  Checked with the dealership.
>
> While I was there, I ALSO found out the console section I was looking
> for was available still for 62.00 list.  Of course, ~I~ don't pay
> that....So I'll get my console piece after all.  I'm a happy toad now.
>
>
> Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 16:56:09 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: A4 intake was: '84 & earlier heads, will they fit? (87 olds)

> Sorry, I stand corrected, in 1985 I have only seen 7A heads, no 5A's on
> "Y", just "9" engine code.  1985 was a gray year for the head
> changeover.  But most "Y" were 7A's.  All "9" to my knowledge were 5A.
>

Maybe I misunderstood.  Yes, 7A heads were used in 85 on the "Y"
engines.  However, I misunderstood that you meant ALL 85 V-8s had 7As.
And it is correct that 5As were used on the "9" engines.  The roller
cammed "Y" engine I BELIEVE started in 1984, and continued throughout.
The 442 engine got the roller in '86, plus a drop in HP by 10, and I
believe this to be solely due to the heads.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 18:07:25 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Cutlass S Dash Pad

This looks like a miserable job. According to my '68 manual, you remove
the glove box, disconnect the battery and all electrical connections
(guages, switches and lights), disconnect the heater control from the
dash, remove the ignition switch from the dash (I guess it needs to be
left behind for some reason, it's the only one that doesn't just get
disconnected), disconnect the speedo and radio antenna, remove the main
wire harness attaching bolt (behind the heater control apparently),
disconnect the a/c manifold and ducts if you have them, disconnect the
shift indicator if column shift, remove the trim cap under the steering
column, remove 12 nuts from attaching studs, drop the steering column then
the whole assembly comes out (whew!).

*Then* they say you can remove the pad from the control panel below it by
removing the guage clusters, a/c vent outlets, and the 6 screws that hold
the pad to the control panel.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 17:07:11 EDT
From: WOODY3781@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds Tri-power

Lou,
Can't help you with Bob Soucy but it brings to mind a guy I met about a year
and a half ago. He has his own shop and I saw he had about 17 Monte Carlos
around back.
He races them in demolition/road races(is this Euro racing?). We were talking
about
cars and the times around 20-30 years ago. All of a sudden he says to me,"...
55
Chevy this 55 Chevy that but I'll tell you, nobody EVER beat my J2, best damn
engine of the day." Needless to say I learned a lot about the famed J2 that
afternoon
and the first thing I look for at a show is a J2 convertible(yeah the
convertible is pushin it). Don't think that the guy is a bad guy because he
owns 17 Montes. After all he did sell me my delta convertible, he does beat
the hell out of those Montes,
and he is very well informed about Olds power. Thanks for taking me down
oldstalgia lane Lou.

wood

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 17:13:51 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Repro H/O emblems

Anybody have experiences with the reproduction H/O emblems?  I purchased
some a year and a half ago from Don Hartmann (a little different) and
just packed them away.  I pulled them out the other day, and found out
they are NOT like the originals, in the fact that all the lettering is
mis-shaped and too long("O" is squarish instead of round, "s" is like a
backwards "Z" shape), and they are only about 7/8ths as large.  Pretty
sucky if you ask me.

From what I understand, the one's the Parts Place have are from Don
himself.  Makes me wonder.  Anyone buy any of those?

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 17:18:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Re: Heater core replacement

Con a mechanic friend to do it on his/her spare time for a case of beer. You
can help.

Will have to get the blower motor cover off first.
But,
before you can do that, the inner fender has to come off.
But,
very likely in order to do that, the right fender has to come off (believe
me, if the front/inner fenders haven't been off recently, bolts will shear
and they'll have to come off together.

If the fender goes, that requires the hood to come off too.

Then you can get at the heater core for removal and replacement. Changed it
in my non A/C Cutlass and it wasn't as tricky as I thought it'd be. But they
say that a/c is more difficult. Allow 2-4 hours for the job, depending upon
the experience level of your mechanic friend (also depends on amount of beer
consumed during process, but not sure which way the beer volume consumed
affects the time required).

You may want to go ahead and get 2 cases of that beer.

At 01:01 PM 10/7/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Hello everyone,
>	I got home from work today, went in to grab a sandwich came back out 
to my
car and antifreeze all over the ground leaking from the firewall area under
the passenger side.  Needless to say there was also fluid in the passenger
foot area.  So I have a bad Heater Core.  My question to anyone that can
help is:  What is the easiest way to replace the Heater core?  I have a 71
Cutlass Supreme 350 with A/C.  Thank you for your help.  Brnadon
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 17:26:40 EDT
From: "Norm Baier" <nbaier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Tri-power

Thanks for the responses! Unfortunately I was afraid that the answer was
no. I can

lay my hands on a J-2 manifold if I want it, but since it won't work,
that's not an

option. I knew the '66 tri-power manifold would work, but given my
initial lack of

success in finding one I have been seeking a close replacement. Alas, it
is not to be.

So, given the collective knowledge here, what kind of challenges am I
facing trying to

find a 1966 w30 tri-power manifold, functioning carbs and linkage? Is it
even worth

the effort? Where or what would be a good source of detailed info on
this setup? TIA

Norm Baier
Woodstock, GA
=====================================================================
- ----Original Message Follows----
From:	KarlAune@aol.com
Date:	Wed, 7 Oct 1998 15:13:44 EDT
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Olds Tri-power
Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

Guys? I got this one.

<< to ask the question. Can a 57-58 vintage Olds tri-carb intake (I
assume
 this is also known as the J-2, please correct me if I am mistaken) be
used
with a
 later model  (1966 and up) engine... specifically a 400 (or 455), or
does the
fact
 that the older manifold uses a valley cover preclude that? TIA >>

Answer: UH-UH

The 1965 BBs (or 1964 SB/s where 330s are concerned) are totally
different
from the small blocks that were used until 1964.

In fact if you are referencing the 1957-58 J-2 intake, that will ONLY
fit the
371 (1957-1962 or so) engine and not the 394 that was avail 1961-1964
(or
whenever).

For 1965 and on BB's, (which inclide 400, 425, 455's) there is a
tri-power
intake, but it was only available on 1966 W-30 4 4 2's or over the
counter
from dealerships n 1967 (not a factory option).

Karl is VERY interested in any info you have concerning the 1957-58 J-2
intake!
Please Email me Privately with any questions!

SOM

&KA
KarlAune@aol.com




______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 16:34:10 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Tri-power

Woody,
Dad had a1953 Super 88 2 DR sedan. He won "B" stock at the local drag
races. Was old runway, only had 4 (four) stock classes, A.B.C. & D and I
mean stock, could only remove hubcaps and spare tire from trunk. This was
greater St. Louis area. Imagine all the cars running in only 4 classes.
Sold it to a kid who took it, (still stock, except for dual exhausts) to
the old Alton Dragway, scene of the first 200mph run ever. Kid won approx.
260 trophies. Still a record. Had his whole house decorated with them. At
the last I believe it ran JSA class.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

- ----------
> From: WOODY3781@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Olds Tri-power

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 17:34:33 EDT
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: H/O & 442 Collection

The Parts Place in IL.  sells emblems. Look in Hemmings for the phone number.
There are many places you can find them emblems as long as you do not take
them off my car.   : )



Vinny
62 Starfire
68 Hurst/Olds

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 17:36:54 EDT
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Repro H/O emblems

Hey Mike.

I sent the Parts Place MY 68 Hurst/Olds emblems to use as an original die.
So I  KNOW that the 68 emblems are correct   Not sure about the 69's and up.

A little different is no longer in business.

Vinny

62 Starfire
68 Hurst/Olds

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 15:42:31 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Heater core replacement

Hi all,

	would I need to removal the inner fender to replace the core '69
442/Cutlass ?  The last time I took mine out for a spin it was leaking
antifreeze into the cab.

	The brake light also came on and the brakes felt mushy.  Do most people
with '69's and front disks replace the proportioning valve with a modern
one and toss the little compensator thingy?  The compensator (please
correct me if this is the wrong term) gave me problems about 5 years ago
and I had a hard time finding a used one.  I assume it's impossible to
find a new or used one now.

	Last question, does anyone know the correct size Speed Bleeders for
this beast?

	Thanks in advance, I'm a new reader to this list and it has renewed my
enthusiasm and convinced me I should get off the pot and build that 455
I've had in parts for years.

Cliff Simpson
'69 442/400/th400/unknow gears gotta check that.

C. Casteel wrote:
>
> Con a mechanic friend to do it on his/her spare time for a case of beer. You
> can help.
>
> Will have to get the blower motor cover off first.
> But,
> before you can do that, the inner fender has to come off.
> ...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 17:42:20 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Repro H/O emblems

> I sent the Parts Place MY 68 Hurst/Olds emblems to use as an original die.
> So I  KNOW that the 68 emblems are correct   Not sure about the 69's and up.

Sorry I didn't specify.  The 68's were unique to say the least.  I was
talking about the 69 and up ones.  If you can ever catch Doc Watson at a
meet somewhere, he usually has a big old box with a grunch of these
emblems, 68 and up.
>
> A little different is no longer in business.

Yes, I know, but Don is still kicking.  And he'll never let you forget
he has the dies!!!  Unfortunately, he has the wrong ones!

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 17:45:17 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Heater core replacement

<SNIP>  The compensator (please
> correct me if this is the wrong term) gave me problems about 5 years ago
> and I had a hard time finding a used one.  I assume it's impossible to
> find a new or used one now.
>


SuperCars Unlimited provides a rebuild service with exchange.


>         Last question, does anyone know the correct size Speed Bleeders for
> this beast?

Don't recall, but if you contact Speedbleeder, they can tell you exactly
what size you'll need if you tell them what you have.  I use em, and I
like em.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 14:50:55 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Alldata CD-ROMs

What data is on these CD's?

Would it go back as far as 1966

(my year of interest...)

cf

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jason Adcock [mailto:jadcock@vt.edu]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 1998 10:13 AM
> To: 'Olds List'
> Subject: Alldata CD-ROMs
>
>
> Has anyone on the list ordered one of the Alldata CD-ROM sets
> for their car?  I was thinking of
> ordering one, but does anyone here recommend or ~not~ recommend them?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jason Adcock
> Blacksburg, VA
> ICQ: 5860857
> E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
> Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 17:49:01 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Repro H/O emblems

...Pretty sucky if you ask me.
__________

Well, I guess I'm pretty lucky that my H/O came with an envelope from Hurst
Performance that contained three NOS emblems.  Whew!

<bragging mode off>

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 17:54:33 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: olds gears

Does anyone know where I can find a set of 456 gears for my 68 12 bolt
cover 10 bolt ring gear for a olds o axle , cant find from summit or
jegs or richmond . Thanks
                        Butch 68 442 post

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 05:29:18 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: G-Body Header Panel Questions:

Ya know Jerry, I've wondered the same things before.  I hope someone
knows...

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 05:23:43 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild

>Be wary of the performer rpm.., I'm still trying to sort out
>problems...
>
>
What kind of problems?

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 05:48:45 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)

  Just bite the bullet and pull it.

>Thomas Martin
1998

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 05:27:13 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild

I'm going to rebuild an Aurora V8 tonight and drop it in my other 87
Cutlass tomorrow morning before work.     uh huh

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

___________________________________________________________________
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Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 05:58:45 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: tossed some parts, Blaine...

On Wed, 7 Oct 1998 10:41:53 -0600 "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
writes:
>I
Hey Blaine!  Where in Utah?  I love that state, especially the folks of
Mexican Hat!

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 05:43:52 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: G-Body Tail Light Questions:

>84/85 did not have the red reflector.  86-88 had a red stripe around
>the
>perimeter just inside the chrome edge.
>>
>
Hey!  I never noticed that!  Time to pick up some 95 Cadillac Dark Cherry
paint and do some painting!

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 05:36:52 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: G-Body Header Panel Questions:

>The Rockit

What is a RockIT?

p.s. my 86 had clear lenses up front and my 87 has amber.  From what I've
noticed, I believe your coworker's 442 should have the rocket, not the
antique.  I've theorized that, ggeenneerraallllyy, Salons have the rocket
and Supremes have the crest.  But we all know that would be too simple...

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA




___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 05:52:22 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: TH-200-C

Maybe you can use is for the core charge when you get a real trans!

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

On Wed, 7 Oct 1998 10:27:53 -0400 "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS"
<gjcouse@francomm.com> writes:
>Is the TH 200-C (METRIC) worth anything more than to hold down scrap
>sheet
>metal on the scrap pile?
>Most catalogs don't even list after market products for it.
>
>----Regards,
>
>Gary J. Couse
>Couse Custom
>gjcouse@francomm.com
>  
>'86 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS = "Quincy"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

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Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 05:04:15 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: tragic story

About a week ago, my Dad told me about a story he had heard on the radio.
 Some guy, back in 1982, wanted to get a brand new 442 (cool guy!), and
he wanted everything a specific way.  So he ordered the car exactly as he
wanted it and waited and waited and wiated.  After a couple of months, he
learned when the car would be arriving.  So, the day it came, he went to
the Olds dealership, and waited for it to come.  When the truck got
there, the guy was robably jumping up and down.  Then, as they were
unloading the car off the car carrier, of the top rack, someone screwed
up and it fell(!) off the truck.  That sucks.  I know he didn't get the
car, even though they offered to fix it for him, yeah brand new car with
a wrinkled frame, real cool.  I don't know the rest of the story, but
that's the painful part at least.

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

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Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 05:57:07 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)

Oh yes, I know the feeling, except the no tools part.  I've worken on my
car in at least ten different states across the coutry's parking lots and
truck stops...

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

On Wed, 7 Oct 1998 12:11:32 EDT KS7RACING@aol.com writes:
>Someting to remember to do while the oil pan's off and you're changing
>the
>timing chain:  THOROUGHLY CLEAN OR REPLACE THE OIL PUMP PICKUP SCREEN!
> I've
>been in this position and didn't do this, only to have the oil pump
>fail in
>Flagstaff, AZ while I was in route to Southern California from Kansas
>City.
>It really sucks to be not only stranded, but stranded and no access to
>tools...............
>
>Best of luck with your ongoing project, and Take Care!
>Ken Snyder
>Kansas City, Kansas
>

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Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 05:26:24 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild

My 403 was my first rebuild too!  (and only one)  I hope you'll be doing
this with someone who's done it before, because I know I very easily
could have screwed something up if I hadn't done it with my masterful
father!

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

> I'm not trying to sound like a smart a** I'm just trying to find out
>what kind of prob's I need to address with the heads!
>  This is my first rebuild I've ever done on any engine so forgive me
>if
>I sound stupid!
>    Thanks again,
>          Scott
>

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Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 05:47:15 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: F-41 Cutlass

On Wed, 7 Oct 1998 07:38:15 -0500 Martin Thomas-WLTM07
<Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com> writes:
>Probably something taken from a FE3 suspension Delta 88 or Cutlass
>Ciera.  It is a nice emblem...Delta 88 and 98 used to advertise it.  I
>have seen F41 badges on something some years ago.
>
>The FE3 was the top suspension option.  The F41 became the FE2, the
>FE1
>being stock.  FE3 was the 442 suspension I believe.  In my 80 Turbo
>T/A,
>F41 is standard on T/A and WS6 is top option.  Sometimes referred to a
>I saw an 86ish Toronado with FE3 badging today.  The entire side of the
car was one long wrinkle, and it was being driven by a female  (two
completely unrelated pieces of information, not to offend, uh kinda)

Was 86 the first year of the much shortened Toronado, and Riviera,
etc...?

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

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Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 05:21:58 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild

On Tue, 06 Oct 1998 22:53:30 -0400 Gasman24 <stulk@bellsouth.net> writes:
>Hi list members,
Hi Scott

> I'd like your input on this, I'm going to be re-building a '79 Olds
>403

cool!

>soon and I'm looking to get some good performance out of it.

shouldn't be a problem

>Here's what I'm thinking about doing to it:
>First get rid of my #4a heads and go with a set of #5 heads,
>casting #397742.

I'm using 72 350 heads (7a) on my 403, good compression.

>Then I will use the Edelbrock Performer RPM cam and intake

What are the specs on this cam?  My Crane cam is .480,.496, can't
remember duration specs and I lost my cam card!!!
.
>The block will be a stock rebuild, useing new parts if needed (like
>pistons, con rods).

An overbore would be good too.  Beware, when I was running 9.8:1
compression on stock-style cast pistons, I blew one apart.  Now, I'm
running 10.5:1 with forged aluminum, and they're holding up great (so
far!)

>I would like to get a gear type drive insted of double roller timming
>gear (just for the cool sound) is that a good idea?

Hey, if you can deal with the noise, then the gears are definitely better
than the chain!

>Also will roller rockers work on the #5 heads? With out a lot of
>machine
>work?

Uh, I don't know this.  My guess is that someone makes a set that'll bolt
right on.  Do you know about Mondello?

>  The trans in the car (by the way it's a '79 T/A) is a TH350, it's
>been
>rebuilt with shift kit and a slight stall convter (something like
>1200)
>stock gears in the rear. Allthough I might change them later,
>something
>like 3:73's.
>  Does any of this sound like a good idea?
>
403's don;t like to be fast spinning motors.  I've got 3.08 gears, and I
think they're perfect.  I wouldn't go any "lower" than 3.23 with a 403.
With the 3.08's, my car still easily burns through a 1/4 mile in 13.4ish
seconds, could be faster if I could get the damn thing tuned right!  (see
future complaint)  And with the 3.08's I still get almost 14 mpg on the
interstates!  Ha, as if that's good...


Wait a minute, the car the engine is FROM is a T/A or, it's still in the
T/A and that's what this is for?!  Hey, put it in an Olds man!  How about
an 82 Toronado?  They're cooler than T/A's!  Or perhaps a 85 Cutlass
Cierra four door.
  Thanks for any input!
>                Scott
>
sure, see ya!

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1537
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