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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1596


oldsmobile-digest     Tuesday, November 10 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1596



Re: TBI
Re: Emissions  307 vs 403 (getting long!)
Re: 69 Olds
Re: no volts at starter ????
Re: running dead lean
Rochester App. Manual? + Block code?
Re: K&N Running Lean?
Re: my new car
Re: Keyless Entry Troubleshooting
Re: my new car
"Hangers" and block ID
Re: running dead lean
RE: Wheels & Window Stickers
I need a 425
Web page up!!!
Re: Web page up!!!
Re: W-30 Emblem Location
Re: Save 63 F-85 from crusher?
Olds 403 rebuild update and general olds info & Questions
Re: Baaad Day!!!!!
RE: Web page up!!!
RE: Emissions  307 vs 403 (getting long!)
UNBOUNCE: Wheels & Window Stickers 
UNBOUNCE: 1970 rocket 88
Re: Baaad Day!!!!!
Nov JWO I'm fixing it for December!!
Give OCA a break and the Volunteers a hand
Re: I need a 425
425  engine need for '67 olds f85
Tail light sockets for '72 Cutlass
Re: Emissions  307 vs 403 (getting long!) Thanks Thom
Re: 69 Olds
info please
Re: Keyless Entry Troubleshooting
Re: Baaad Day!!!!!
FWD: Last Cutlass Conv F/S
RE: Interior Painting
RE: K&N Running Lean?
RE: Keyless Entry Troubleshooting
line-locks operation question.
RE: Web page up!!!
Re: info please
Fw: Delta for sale 
Re: Web page up!!!
Exhaust Restrictor???  Hmm . . .
Re: Exhaust Restrictor???  Hmm . . .
Re: info please
Re: line-locks operation question.
Re: Cam and manifold ID's

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 11:29:20 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: TBI

>Wouldnt that 350 Olds be diesel?
>_________
>
>Nope.  Late 70s Caddys used a port-injected 350 Olds gasoline engine as an
>option.  The one problem is that this setup used a trouble-plagued analog
>computer controller instead of today's digital version.  There's been a lot
>of talk about adapting a digital controller to this manifold setup, but I'm
>not aware of anyone who's done it yet.
>
>Joe Padavano


The problem with adapting the stock port injected setup to digital control
is that the factory intake isn't all that great.  It has a fairly small
throttle body
and is based off of a 2bbl intake.  The trouble and expense of converting
over to digital for a system that is already running near it's max flow on a
low compression stock motor just isn't worth it.  Now a modified intake with
a Edelbrock controller and harness from thier sbc MPFI system would be
the hot setup since the computer doesn't know whether it's hooked to an
Olds or a Ch*vy and you still keep the advantages of port fuel injection.
As soon as I win the lottery I'll let you know how it works.  BTW Gary Couse
will be working on a similar system this winter and I'm very interested to
see what he comes up with.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 11:46:24 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Emissions  307 vs 403 (getting long!)

Thomas,
You make some very good points and you are correct that the solution to
emissions is to work with them and not just to yank everything out (seen
way to many charcoal canisters yanked for no reason).  But as far as
California law it goes something like this in regards to engine swaps.

1.  You can put a passenger car engine in a truck but not vice versa.
Trucks
have less stringent emmissions standards than cars so you can upgrade
but not downgrade.  2.  You can swap any motor into any car but the engine
has to be newer than the car and carry all the emissions equipment that it
originally came with.  Don't know all the details but for safety reasons,
cars
that did not come equipped with catalytic converters do not have to have
them
installed.  3.  Once the swap is completed you must go to a referee station
and
they will do research to determine that the swap was done in compliance
with all applicable laws and that everthing is present and functional.  At
that
point you get your paperwork stating what components are supposed to be
inspected in the future so you can have further inspections done at any
inspection station.

These laws are very convoluted and complex but that is the basics of it.
There
is also a whole big issue of CARB approved parts vs service replacements.
Keep in mind also that California is the strictest of all but that is where
everyone
else is looking to pattern thier laws after, so beware!

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>Majority of the states require the car to pass emissions based on the model
>year of the car, not what engine is in it.  In California (last I heard)
you
>can make any engine swap, but it MUST be the same engine family, and all
>emissions systems from the car chassis MUST go on the new engine.  And be
>fully functional.
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 13:25:07 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 69 Olds

I was in the same situation for my 69 Olds also....I have not
been able to find anyone with bumpers though.
_______

As of a week or so ago when I called them, Desert Dog Auto Parts had a set
of rechromed 69 442 bumpers (front is the same as a Cutlass) in stock and
ready to ship - $250 each exchange plus shipping.  I didn't buy them
because I elected to have them rechrome mine at $225 each instead.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 12:55:36 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: no volts at starter ????

Yeah, sounds like (cough cough) top post problem.  I did the classic of
removing a starter for around this purpose (oops, my mistake, sorry). 
Replace battery posts with side posts, tighten, retry.  Maybe the motor
is siezed??  Unlikely, but another easy-to-check thing.  (I firmly
belive in checking the easiest to check things first, not the most
likely things first, JMO)

Eric

http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/


Rock Man wrote:
> Are the cables tight on the battery? The way it sounds with the smoke
> from under the hood is that there is a poor connection at the battery.
> With nothing requiring a load, voltage is good, but when you try to
> take that extreme load to the starter, the connection isn't good
> enough to allow that kind of draw through. Clean posts and terminals,
> retighten and try again.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 14:19:17 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: running dead lean

In a message dated 98-11-09 09:48:08 EST, you write:

<< I have r[e]cently modified a 350.  Since mods, carb runs way lean & am
unable 
 to adjust significantly. Previously, carb seemed to work okay except for 
 leaking well plugs >>
<< Had low com, #8 heads, switched to essentially W-31 heads (#5's with bigger
 valves, shaved .020))  Estimating compression increas from 7.x -9.x. >>

Plus better airflow....
 
<< EGR to non-EGR intake >>

Was the EGR operatioal before the swap??
If so, this could be the central issue.
EGR makes use of some of the same vacc signal that operates your primary jets.
 
<< Stock cam to Lunati (Dur @ .050, 214/224  Gross lift .472/.496) >>

Yet more airflow and some change to vacc signal... 
 
<< Rhoades variable duration lifters >>

Cool!
 
<< Other stuff essentially stock replacements >>
 
No vacc leaks..
<< Crap knocked loose in carb while off motor & being handled by dufous home 
 mechanic. >>

Never rule that one out.
 
<< Sealed too many well plugs. I sealed  (JB Weld)  what I took to be four
well 
 plugs - 2 big ones & 2 smaller ones >>

Exactly right two main well and two secondary well.
You did right, they all suck.
 
<< Fuel pump not working adequately. >>

Overall, not heard a high % of pump failure stories compared to other stuff...
 
<< Carb needs bigger primary jets to deal with modifications (don't know
what's 
 there, didn't fiddle. >>
 
What is your app. # ?
You prolly want rods/jets for a 70-72 W-31..

Karl thinks the key issue here is different vacc signal.
Assuming EGR was operational before tear-down, the power piston that operates
the primary rods is reacting to more vacc signal that it has ever seen before.
Not to mention any changes from the cam (would that be more vacc ?).

Interestingly, the Q-Jet that you sent me has Jets/rods that are probably
close to your application. It is rodded right for a 350 application, but the
primary jets are one size higher thatn the FAQ lists; 70 up from 69.

Need 'em back?

SOM

&KA
ICQ #20414415
http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 14:19:19 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Rochester App. Manual? + Block code?

Karl kinda confused....

Called 1-800-ACDelco just then.

Asked for an ACDelco Rochester Carburetor Application manual and mentioned
part # "9X". Also mentioned that the binder was desired, but not got # for
dat.

Feller said he believed that the # was right and is sending a catalogue.
For no charge?

Karl gots no objections to recieving yet another car parts catalogue, but
would like to have found out if this was a step in the right direction.....

This'll be interesting.

KA
&SOM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 14:19:54 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: K&N Running Lean?

In a message dated 98-11-08 13:31:02 EST, you write:

<< My car is still pinging, even  after the dealer set my timing to stock.
Could it be that my K&N air  filter is letting in too much air, causing it to
run lean? >>

~IF~ you are running the original, or a similarly correctly jetted carburetor,
AND have made no other significant alterations (like plugging the EGR, using a
massive cam ...), then the problem is not your carburetor or air cleaner.

Your carburetor will meter fuel into the inlet air to the capacity of its cfm
rating.
Rich/lean is a carb function, not an air filter ability.

[ Thought Karl cleared this up last week! ]
[[Alternately, you were right to ignore that thread....]]

Pinging is an ignition problem and most directly related to timing, than
anything else.

How many many miles on the motor, and when was the last timing chain swap?

And whatever info on the HEI is necessary (& unintelligible to Karl...) to
this discussion.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 14:19:55 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: my new car

In a message dated 98-11-07 23:20:12 EST, you write:

<< the block is stamped f and the heads are j's. is this correct for 70's?  >>


Others have addressed the J heads.


Does the F on the block have "hangers" or no?

What Karl means is that "I" is capital i "without hangers" while the roman
numeral for one should "have hangers", If you understand the analogy.....

There are F blocks with and without hangers on the F. Karl found one without
hangers (more desireable?) on Saturday, but cannot recall what car it was
in... A 69 98??....

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 11:38:57 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Keyless Entry Troubleshooting

> I've checked the fuse, and it was okay.  The manual says to ground
> a wire in the trunk to put the system into learning mode.  I cannot
> remember if it cycled the locks, but I will try again this evening.

Yes, the wire in the trunk is another access point. Don't know if
it's the precursor to the ALDL connector that you're supposed to
use in 1993 models or what, but either way, all you're doing is
grounding a lead. I would think yours would cycle the locks as
soon as it's grounded or else you don't have any feedback. (I know
I jumped a mile when I stuck the jumper in the connector and the
whole car went *kaCHUNK* *kaCHUNK*...  Creepy.  :-)

I'd say if the lead in the trunk doesn't seem to do anything, see
if you have a wire in the bottom right socket of the ALDL connector
on or near the lower edge of the dash. If you do, jumper it to the
top left connector and see if you're in business now.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 11:56:41 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: my new car

> Does the F on the block have "hangers" or no?
>
> What Karl means is that "I" is capital i "without hangers" while
> the roman numeral for one should "have hangers", If you understand
> the analogy.....
>
> There are F blocks with and without hangers on the F.

Andy would like to point that-- oh, no, now you've got _me_ doing it--
they're called "serifs", Karl. A typeface like Times Roman that has
little fiddly bits on the ends of each letter is a serif typeface;
one like Helvetica, which is fiddly-bit-free, is a "sans-serif"
(Latin or French for "without serif") typeface.

As an example, the '69 Vista Cruiser logo as seen on that '70's
show "That '70s Show" is a serif face, IIRC. They had a nice long
closeup of it in last night's episode. The logo stuck on the Olds
Achieva and other newer models is a sans-serif.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 14:48:04 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: "Hangers" and block ID

Does the F on the block have "hangers" or no?

What Karl means is that "I" is capital i "without hangers" while the roman
numeral for one should "have hangers", If you understand the analogy.....
________

"Hangers"?  Uh, Karl, I believe the term you're grasping for is serif and
san-serif.  Serif fonts have the "hangers"; examples are Courier and Times
Roman.  San-serif (sans = French for "without") means no "hangers", a la
Helvetica and Arial.

Now, as this relates to Olds blocks, I believe you are correct in noting
that a serif F (with "hangers") denotes a later block, but I can't say for
sure if this is true or if it is more casting location related.  Obviously
the most accurate way to tell the year of a block is to look at the VIN
derivative stamped on the pad adjacent to the number one cylinder (for
68-up blocks).  First digit will be a 3 for Olds Division, second digit
will be the last digit of the year (8 = 1968, 1 = 1971, etc), and third
will indicate the manufacturing location (M = Lansing, X = Kansas City,
etc).  I'd be interested to find out if the serif/san-serif thing is year
or location related.  Note that a block which was originally sold as a
marine motor will obviously not have the VIN derivative, but will have a
different type of number, usually starting with the letter L (for
"liquid"???).  Note that this L on the VIN derivative pad should not be
confused with the L block 455s; that L is on the shelf over the timing
chain, in place of the normal F.  The marine blocks I've found have the
numbers crudely stamped (ie, not even), in a font size larger than that
used for the VIN derivative, and there is a drill spot on the number pad.
I've not yet run across an industrial or irrigation motor; anyone have any
info on the ID numbering used on these?

Note that a secondary method of getting a rough idea of the year of the
block is to look for the raised "F-number" on the bellhousing face of the
block, under the flywheel.  This will take the form of F, F0, F00, or F1
through F8 (I think.  Actually, I'm not sure if they went to F8 or F6),
with the lower numbers indicating earlier and more desirable blocks.  The
1971 block I'm currently working on is an F2.  Interestingly, I have two
marine 455 blocks, one (an F0, if I remember) with the clutch ball
provision, and one (a later F6) without.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 14:15:45 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: running dead lean

In response to my hapless query, Karl Aune replied:
>
<snip>
> 
><< EGR to non-EGR intake >>
>
>Was the EGR operatioal before the swap??

No. Just EGR intake. Nothing connected to EGR valve. Same carb connections 
then as now.

<snip>

><< Stock cam to Lunati (Dur @ .050, 214/224  Gross lift .472/.496) >>
>
>Yet more airflow and some change to vacc signal... 
> 
><< Rhoades variable duration lifters >>
>
>Cool!
> 
><< Other stuff essentially stock replacements >>
> 
>No vacc leaks..
><< Crap knocked loose in carb while off motor & being handled by dufous home 
> mechanic. >>
>
>Never rule that one out.
> 
<snip>

> 
><< Carb needs bigger primary jets to deal with modifications (don't know
>what's 
> there, didn't fiddle. >>
> 
>What is your app. # ?
>You prolly want rods/jets for a 70-72 W-31..

Have to look again. Memory sucks more too.

>
>Karl thinks the key issue here is different vacc signal.
>Assuming EGR was operational before tear-down, the power piston that operates
>the primary rods is reacting to more vacc signal that it has ever seen before.
>Not to mention any changes from the cam (would that be more vacc ?).

Not sure here. Suspect lifters will add to vacuum, espec. @ idle & low end


>
>Interestingly, the Q-Jet that you sent me has Jets/rods that are probably
>close to your application. It is rodded right for a 350 application, but the
>primary jets are one size higher thatn the FAQ lists; 70 up from 69.
>
>Need 'em back?
>
Maybe. Wish I knew sumthin  fer sure.

roger

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 15:19:02 -0500
From: Boccadifuoco_Roy_A@bns.att.com
Subject: RE: Wheels & Window Stickers

- --openmail-part-0332f052-00000001
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; name="BDY.RTF"
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="BDY.RTF"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

To whom it may concern,

It's been almost a week and I haven't heard from anybody.  Is this the
right way to get my questions answered?  If I'm doing something wrong,
please let me know.  Can you also acknowledge receipt of this e-mail?  I=

hope someone can e-mail me back with answers to my questions, or guide
me to where I can get answers.  I've already tried www.442.com
(Bryceman's) and all I got was someone else wanting me to furnish them
w/the window sticker info once I was e-mailed.  I never did get any info=

from anyone looking @ that website.

Please help, I would greatly appreciate it!!!!

Sincerely,

Roy Boccadifuoco (954) 753-8919

      -----Original Message-----
      From:    Boccadifuoco, Roy A. =20
      Sent:    Wednesday, November 04, 1998 3:39 PM
      To:      'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
      Cc:      'boccadifuoco@att.com'
      Subject: Wheels & Window Stickers
      =20
      I'm the proud original owner of a black 1986 RWD Cutlass Salon
      with chrome Super Stock III rims.  I replaced the original SSIII
      which had black inserts and which were 14X6, with new 15X7 Super
      Stock III with gold inserts for a 442.  I then painted the gold
      inserts black and added the red stripe that came with the 83-84
      Hurst rims.  What I'm trying to do is fit a 295/50R15 in the back.=

      I know I'll need to go to an 8 inch rim and that's ok because I
      found a guy out in Sandy, Oregon that reproduces classic wheels.
      He can make them up in 7,8, or 10 inch rims-so I'll still have the=

      Hurst/442 look since the wheel is a 2 part wheel.  I've seen @
      least 3 G-Body Buick Grand Nationals with 295/50R15's in the back
      and they really look tough!  I currently have 255/60R15's in the
      back.  I tried going to 275/60R15's but they rubbed on the inner
      frame and they were too tall for my liking.  The 295/50R15's are
      very close in height to the 255/60R15 but are over 1.5 inches
      wider which is what I like.  My problem is that I need to tell
      this guy building my rims how much backspace in order to build the=

      wheel and if I tell him something incorrectly especially where the=

      tire is now sticking out beyond the wheel well then I'm stuck with=

      them and I don't want to go out past the wheel well.  I'd like to
      be as close to the outer edge of the wheel well without it
      becoming a low-rider look.  The look I'm after is a drag strip
      look with skinnier tires up front-216/65R15's to be exact.  Can
      anyone out there with a G Body Cutlass 81-87 who has ever put
      295/50R15s in the rear answer my question as far as backspacing
      and share what if any modifications were needed.  I'm also
      concerned about the inner lip on the rear of the wheel wells.  Is
      there a problem with rubbing?     =20
      =20
      My next question is does anyone know of someone or company that
      reproduces window stickers for the G Body Cutlass' 81-87?  I have
      the original bill of sale listing every option on the car, back in=

      '86 they didn't have these convience option groups they do today,
      every option was listed on the invoice.  I looked into this back
      in '93 when I first showed my car in the very first SE Regional
      Meet in Tanglewood Park, Winston Salem, NC.  I took first in my
      class that day even without the window sticker-but it would have
      been nice to have it.  The following year in Atlanta I tried again=

      to find someone to reproduce a window sticker for the B.O.P. show
      and I came in 2nd to a Buick GNX-Chrome show under the hood.
      Since then I've not really shown the car and gave up and finding
      someone who can reproduce a G Body window sticker.  Everyone I
      talked to said they stopped @ 72 model and that the '86 style was
      different and too new @ the time.  I'm hoping that now that 4-5
      years have past that the 81-87 G Body's are becoming popular
      enough to show and maybe someone out there can help me out with
      this.  I know I'm not the only one who would want a window sticker=

      for their G Body Baby!  I also need a reproduction trunk lid decal=

      listing all of my options for my car.  As some of you may know,
      the trunk decal is where GM listed the options for '86.  =20
      =20
      Any help with these would greatly be appreciated!  Love my Olds!
      Dad had a '66 98 Regency LS in which I learned how to drive back
      in '79.  Thanks again and happy Oldsmobiling!
      =20
      Sincerely,
      =20
      Roy Boccadifuoco
      Boccadifuoco@att.com
      =20
      =20
      
- --openmail-part-0332f052-00000001--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 12:23:30 -0800
From: "David Seiver - Account Executive" <DavidS@AnaServe.com>
Subject: I need a 425

Hello all.

I am having MAJOR BLOWBY. I ran out of oil a couple months ago...long
story...I am in the market for a solid 425 for my 1967 f85
I dont know what information I need to give you all but feel free to call me
at the 800 number below or email me back...this is a first time for me...any
help is appreciated

David Seiver
Account Representative
AnaServe, Inc. - A Concentric Network Company
Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283 (949) 250-7262 Ext. 283
Fax: 714.250.7265
e-mail: dseiver@cncx.com
Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 21:51:21 +0100
From: "Trond Pedersen" <trondped@c2i.net>
Subject: Web page up!!!

Greetings olds heads.

I finaly got a page up :-) its just for you gays!
not mutch there but you can see my f85
the qality on the pix isnt to good but its the best i have
so be gentle With me and go to:

http://home.c2i.net/trondped/olds.html


mail me with any problems and coments you have..

Trond-Jarle Pedersen

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 16:17:18 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Web page up!!!

Trond Pedersen wrote:
> 
> Greetings olds heads.
> 
> I finaly got a page up :-) its just for you gays!
> not mutch there but you can see my f85
> the qality on the pix isnt to good but its the best i have
> so be gentle With me and go to:
> 
> http://home.c2i.net/trondped/olds.html
> 
> mail me with any problems and coments you have..
> 
> Trond-Jarle Pedersen

Wow, Trond. That sure is one of the most "unique" Oldses I have ever
seen. It's pretty cool. I like the paint. Looks like a race car out of a
video game or something. The supertrapps and wheels make it look even
tougher. I'm glad it's in storage, rotten lousy snow and cancer and the
like. How much did it cost to bring it to it's current state?

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***************************
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 V-8 4 bbl)
1975 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (250 I-6 1 bbl)
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (350 V-8 2 bbl)
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4 bbl)
*******************************************
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 15:16:27 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: W-30 Emblem Location

You can fax me at 708-636-0037 MOn-FRI  9AM-5PM (Chicago time).

Thanks....
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: DKlauber@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: W-30 Emblem Location
> Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 9:15 PM
> 
> I've got a manual 1970-72 W-30 stripes, sheet metal clearances, and
spoiler
> mounting info that I could fax you if you would like.  	
> David OCA #30416	
> 1970 442 W-30 Conv

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 16:11:58 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Save 63 F-85 from crusher?

The driver's side left rear wheel is frozen -- either a wheel cylinder
or rear-end problem.  The rear wheels are also not perpendicular to the
axle -- not sure about the cause of this one.
________

Not perpendicular to the axle?  Uh, I'm voting for some sort of rear end
problem...  unless you tell me that this car has had a swing axle transaxle
from a 63 Pontiac Tempest swapped in.  Speaking of which, I still think the
movie My Cousin Vinny has one of the best endings for a motorhead of any
I've seen.  If you haven't seen this flick, go rent it.  See if you can
figure it out before Marisa Tomei explains it.  And what male motorhead
doesn't lust after her character...

Seriously, could you provide us with a little more detail, like body style,
interior config (buckets?), trans type, etc.

Thanks

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 16:24:23 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Olds 403 rebuild update and general olds info & Questions

     Hi all! Finally got the computer back up and running, and got quite a bit
done on the 403. Got lots of prices and data (Ford one piece main fits an
Olds?? : ), and anyone interested in any of it, e-mail me direct.
unfortunately, it DOES NOT have solid main webs. Oh well, worked before, it
will work when I get it put back together. I should have it up and running
within the month, hopefully the new cam will give me a little bit better
performance.
     Rebuilt the carb, rebushed it myself. Nice and clean, and smooth
operation, at least on the bench. When the car is running, I will start
playing around with different air dam designs, secondary metering rods, etc.
Thanks must go to KarlAune for getting me to go get the Roe Rochester book.
Talk about informative! Wish I would have had it sooner.
     One question, what original color should the various engine parts on a
'77 403 be? Intake, heads, valve covers, water pump, and oil pan. The heads,
block and intake looked to have been blue at one time, but the oil pan looks
black (imagine that on an oil leaker!) I'm guessing the correct color is
"Corporate Blue" for all the above mentioned parts? Anyone know an equivalent
Krylon, Dupli-Color etc. color? Thanks in advance, Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 16:30:20 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
> 
> > Second, if the insurance company is intent on totaling the car,
> > inquire if they have the option for you to buy the car back for
> > salvage value.  This way you get the car and the cash to get it
> > fixed.  Unfortunately, since the car will have been totaled, you
> > will likely have some sort of indication on your title that the
> > car has been salvaged or reconstructed.
> 
> Agreed; this part concerns me.
> __________
> 
> No argument from me.  I should have reiterated that I see this as a course
> of last resort only, to save the car from being scrapped.

Someone probably answered this one, but if the insurance company doesn't
transfer title into it's name, the car's title will probably have no
notations of any kind on it.  In Ky at least, if the owner of the car
keeps the "salvage" (even if it looks like a 2 ton coffee table with a
VIN) without it actually passing through the insurance companies hands,
the title remains clean.  You wouldn't believe some of the "clear title"
rebuildable wrecks I've seen over the years.  Saw one advertised one
time that didn't have a usable piece on it.  All the body parts were
unrepairable, all the glass was broken or cracked it had a twist that
would make a contorsionist blush, but it had a clean title.  I would bet
that the VIN tag on that one probably went on a midnight sales lot
special.  There was no way any reasonable person would even attempt to
repair it except for the VIN clip method.  So don't assume all clear
title cars are unbent or all "branded" titles are junk.  It just isn't
so....

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 14:54:10 -0700
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: RE: Web page up!!!

 
> Greetings olds heads.
> 
> I finaly got a page up :-) its just for you gays!

Well, I'm not gay, but what the heck... I'll go check it out anyway... ;)

> not mutch there but you can see my f85
> the qality on the pix isnt to good but its the best i have
> so be gentle With me and go to:
> 
http://home.c2i.net/trondped/olds.html

...later

Hey!  Nice car, Trond-Jarle!

- -Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 17:08:51 -0500
From: "<GJC> Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Emissions  307 vs 403 (getting long!)

- ----Original message----
Sent: Monday, November 09, 1998 12:46 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Emissions 307 vs 403 (getting long!)

<Snip>
motor into any car but the engine
has to be newer than the car and carry all the emissions equipment that it
originally came with.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net

<GJC>

Wow, hadn't even considered this aspect. Huummm, guess I'll need re-think
things as to powerplants available to registering client state. Ouch... Got
any more state statutes handy to send over Mike? Privately of course as this
is getting looong.....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
 Purling, N.Y.
 12470-9709

ICQ# 5209322
 CC-IROC-SS
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

Couse Custom Cutlass,
'86 CC-IROC-SS-#1 = "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/~cousecustoms/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 18:20:28 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Wheels & Window Stickers 

Not on the list; respond to Boccadifuoco_Roy_A@bns.att.com

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Boccadifuoco_Roy_A@bns.att.com
Subject: Wheels & Window Stickers

I'm the proud original owner of a black 1986 RWD Cutlass Salon with
chrome Super Stock III rims.  I replaced the original SSIII which had
black inserts and which were 14X6, with new 15X7 Super Stock III with
gold inserts for a 442.  I then painted the gold inserts black and added=
the red stripe that came with the 83-84 Hurst rims.  What I'm trying to
do is fit a 295/50R15 in the back.  I know I'll need to go to an 8 inch
rim and that's ok because I found a guy out in Sandy, Oregon that
reproduces classic wheels.  He can make them up in 7,8, or 10 inch
rims-so I'll still have the Hurst/442 look since the wheel is a 2 part
wheel.  I've seen @ least 3 G-Body Buick Grand Nationals with
295/50R15's in the back and they really look tough!  I currently have
255/60R15's in the back.  I tried going to 275/60R15's but they rubbed
on the inner frame and they were too tall for my liking.  The
295/50R15's are very close in height to the 255/60R15 but are over 1.5
inches wider which is what I like.  My problem is that I need to tell
this guy building my rims how much backspace in order to build the wheel=
and if I tell him something incorrectly especially where the tire is now=
sticking out beyond the wheel well then I'm stuck with them and I don't
want to go out past the wheel well.  I'd like to be as close to the
outer edge of the wheel well without it becoming a low-rider look.  The
look I'm after is a drag strip look with skinnier tires up
front-216/65R15's to be exact.  Can anyone out there with a G Body
Cutlass 81-87 who has ever put 295/50R15s in the rear answer my question=
as far as backspacing and share what if any modifications were needed.
I'm also concerned about the inner lip on the rear of the wheel wells.
Is there a problem with rubbing?     =20

My next question is does anyone know of someone or company that
reproduces window stickers for the G Body Cutlass' 81-87?  I have the
original bill of sale listing every option on the car, back in '86 they
didn't have these convience option groups they do today, every option
was listed on the invoice.  I looked into this back in '93 when I first
showed my car in the very first SE Regional Meet in Tanglewood Park,
Winston Salem, NC.  I took first in my class that day even without the
window sticker-but it would have been nice to have it.  The following
year in Atlanta I tried again to find someone to reproduce a window
sticker for the B.O.P. show and I came in 2nd to a Buick GNX-Chrome show=
under the hood.  Since then I've not really shown the car and gave up
and finding someone who can reproduce a G Body window sticker.  Everyone=
I talked to said they stopped @ 72 model and that the '86 style was
different and too new @ the time.  I'm hoping that now that 4-5 years
have past that the 81-87 G Body's are becoming popular enough to show
and maybe someone out there can help me out with this.  I know I'm not
the only one who would want a window sticker for their G Body Baby!  I
also need a reproduction trunk lid decal listing all of my options for
my car.  As some of you may know, the trunk decal is where GM listed the=
options for '86.  =20

Any help with these would greatly be appreciated!  Love my Olds!  Dad
had a '66 98 Regency LS in which I learned how to drive back in '79.
Thanks again and happy Oldsmobiling!

Sincerely,

Roy Boccadifuoco
Boccadifuoco@att.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 18:22:11 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 1970 rocket 88

Not on the list; respond to tgkobal718@worldnet.att.net

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Thomas Kobal" <tgkobal718@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: 1970 rocket 88

does anyone know the value of a 1970 olds delta 88 rocket 455. has =
52,000 miles. all original, garage kept.
TGKOBAL718@worldnet.att.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 14:28:32 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!

> Someone probably answered this one, but if the insurance company
> doesn't transfer title into it's name, the car's title will
> probably have no notations of any kind on it.

Right. Part of the haggling with the "enemy" claims adjuster is over
how much of a check you can get them to cough up without declaring
it totalled. And the only way it becomes totalled (and here I'm only
talking about a "financial" total caused by minor or moderate damage
to a low-book-value car) is when you are persuaded to hand over the
title and it becomes theirs. Presumably the claims adjuster's got
standing orders that if the estimated damage exceeds the documented
value of the car, he can't fork over a check without getting a title
in return, or he'll have a lot of explaining to do. But it won't be
totaled if you refuse to give up your title. So the two of you need
to come to some agreement over what your car is worth and therefore
how much you can get in order to fix it and keep it as your own.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 19:06:17 -0500
From: "Brad Nicholson" <brad442@erols.com>
Subject: Nov JWO I'm fixing it for December!!

All,
Just to let you have a heads up: I HAVE ALL OF THE OCA MEMBERSHIP INFO!!!
<snicker, snicker>

Actually, I'm in the final cople of days of developement/testing/delivery of
a new software system for OCA membership director Sharlene Pearson to use.
They have been "hacking" at the raw dBaseIII files for the mailings of Sept,
Oct & Nov issues of JWO, and the database was REALLY strange, especially how
the memberships were indicated.

Anyhow, I've redone it and membership/mailing is based on the amt paid and
new fields for USPS mailing code and membership type have been created,
along with a one button click mailing lists for US 1st class, US 3rd class,
Canadian and then Other foreign.  MAJOR REPLACE QUERIES AND ANALYSIS!  This
is all done w/ MS Access95 w/ version 2 coming in using VB5.  So more than
likely the December issue should be no problem for the mailing company.

Between the OCA web site, this project (th e dBase files were a ttal of 6MB
and the Access database is 9.3MB) the local Oldsmobile Centennial Club
newsletter and other club stuff (SH!T, I have to send the roster to Carol
Hosey!), I'm a little burned out.

"And that," as Paul Harvey says "is the rest of the story. Good Day."

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 19:16:09 -0500
From: "Brad Nicholson" <brad442@erols.com>
Subject: Give OCA a break and the Volunteers a hand

Small soapbox mode ON:

After Penny Casteele left in July, a few people picked up the ball quickly
ad excellently

Marsha Nicholas - for keeping the Communications going on as well as before
Charleane Pearson - for using an ANTIQUATED dBaseIV system for memberships,
on 5 separate floppy disks!
Clay Mollman - for producing JWO uninterupted & creating a usable mailing
list using MS Excel (usually a 6 hour job he says)

Penny DID carry alot of OCA's business onher shoulders and new the system
inside & out, not to mention had the queries/reports in dBaseIV set up for
her easy use, no one else had them, or had the computer knowledge to use
them quickly.  Charleane is doing the updates now and sent the files to Clay
for "processing".  She will be doing the files for December.

Remeber, OCA is a large organization run by volunteers, w/ a couple paid
positions.

Small soapbox mode "OFF"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 19:14:44 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: I need a 425

David - I have an extra slick running 375 horse Starfire 425 in a '67 Delta.
The engine has 77k on it.  One owner car.  Elderly couple.  No knocks, or
smoke.  The engine is dry as the proverbial bone.  I was not neccessarily
considering selling it, but I would look at that situation.  I have no
feeling for what the engine might be worth.  Both I and the engine are in
georgia.  Drop me a line if you are interested.  Note that this engine is
equipped with big valve C heads.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: David Seiver - Account Executive <DavidS@AnaServe.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, November 09, 1998 3:31 PM
Subject: I need a 425


>Hello all.
>
>I am having MAJOR BLOWBY. I ran out of oil a couple months ago...long
>story...I am in the market for a solid 425 for my 1967 f85
>I dont know what information I need to give you all but feel free to call
me
>at the 800 number below or email me back...this is a first time for
me...any
>help is appreciated
>
>David Seiver
>Account Representative
>AnaServe, Inc. - A Concentric Network Company
>Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283 (949) 250-7262 Ext. 283
>Fax: 714.250.7265
>e-mail: dseiver@cncx.com
>Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 16:45:46 PST
From: engine@oldsmobile.net
Subject: 425  engine need for '67 olds f85

>I am having MAJOR BLOWBY. I ran out of oil a couple months ago...long
>story...I am in the market for a solid 425 for my 1967 f85
>I dont know what information I need to give you all but feel free to call
me
>at the 800 number below or email me back...this is a first time for
me...any
>help is appreciated
>
>David Seiver
>Account Representative
>AnaServe, Inc. - A Concentric Network Company
>Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283 (949) 250-7262 Ext. 283
>Fax: 714.250.7265
>e-mail: dseiver@cncx.com
>Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 18:58:11 -0600 (CST)
From: Donald B Cart <dcart@micro.ti.com>
Subject: Tail light sockets for '72 Cutlass

 I'm new to the Olds hobby so excuse my basic question.
Some tail light sockets on my 72 Cutlass Conv have lost
their "springy-ness" and hence not making good contact with
the bulbs. How's the easiest way to replace these sockets ?
Does the bumper need to be taken off first or is there
an easier way ?

Thanks,
Don
'72 Cutlass Conv
'91 Calais I-Series

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 20:29:39 EST
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Emissions  307 vs 403 (getting long!) Thanks Thom

Wow, alot of info there !!  Im going to try the 403 here in NJ.  Its a 79,403,
and I will have the heads drilled for the AIR tubes.

Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 20:36:51 EST
From: Sprotten25@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 Olds

I don't know if this helps but localy we have a place that will fix yours or
make a template for a new one. cost??  to fix and recrome a new one is about
150
(318)222-9518
UNITED BUMPER EXCHANGE
SHREVEPORT LA
 
i havent seen any of their work just trying to help

Dino 
69 f-85

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 21:15:47 EST
From: Sprotten25@aol.com
Subject: info please

     I have a couple of questions what does f-85 mean? It is printed on a
sticker on the door of my car. Where can i find FAQ and how do i use it? This
# is stamped on the filler tube is there any way i can tell what motor it is?
9276562.  Is there any where/way i can de code my vin to find:color,trim,other
important info?


thanks in advance

Dino
69 f-85

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 21:20:00 EST
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: Re: Keyless Entry Troubleshooting

      i have a 90 Cutlass Supreme. The jumper wire is located in the truck
next to the power antenna. It is a black wire, just jumper it to ground,like
where the power antenat grounds. Then just push the unlock button on the
remote....SCOTT

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 21:37:10 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!

Andrew C. Green wrote:
(Snipping some here)

> totaled if you refuse to give up your title. So the two of you need
> to come to some agreement over what your car is worth and therefore
> how much you can get in order to fix it and keep it as your own.

The key question to ask is, "What is the maximum amount/percentage you
can pay without totalling the car?"  Once that question is answered, the
rest is relatively easy.  You decide to take the amount and the carcass
or you don't and the threats of lawsuits, etc. begin.  If the other guys
insurance is the at fault payer, then you obviously have more leverage.
Then, if you can't agree on an amount, you require them to replace the
wrecked car with an EXACT duplicate of the previously unwrecked car. 
They always love that, especially with a hard to find vehicle.  It is
much easier today with the net, etc than it used to be.  But then again
the hittee has more information also.  To them it's all a game with the
winner being determined by who puts what over whom.  And to some agents,
it's a power trip.  When you get one of those people, life gets a lot
more interesting.  Good luck and do your homework BEFORE settling.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 22:00:54 -0500
From: "Brad Nicholson" <brad442@erols.com>
Subject: FWD: Last Cutlass Conv F/S

Usual Discalimers and NO I DID NOT attach the photos (I know the list rules)
BTW it's white w/ black leather from the JPGs
>Brad.
>If you would - pass the word about my vehicle.
>This is the LAST Convertable made - Documented/Build Sheets.
>1995, 3.4V6, Auto, All Options, One Owner - only 14k
>Photos attached.
>Thanks
>Larrys Farris
>Marshall, Mo
>660-886-4747
>larrys@cdsinet.net

Picture Attachments:

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 22:30:54 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Interior Painting

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BE0C30.9CFDE100
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hey Igor,
You got some new fancy font setup or something?  Why am I blue?


Ray

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Igor T. '81 DRB 455
Sent: Monday, November 09, 1998 12:31 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Interior Painting


I am soon to get my car back from the body shop.  The car will be metallic
blue with silver stripes.  The interior is old, warn gold.  I would like to
change it to gray.  My dad does seats, so he will be willing to reupholster
a set of buckets (by the way, which car will buckets fit from.  A few times
at the local yard I have seen the black swivel in a Cutlass or a Regal.
Will these fit my '81 Delta).  I will change the carpet and headliner to
gray.  The door upholstery my dad can also do.  However, as far as the
plastic trim goes, is there paint that you can get to paint this.  If so,
what kind of results am I looking at.  Decent look or
look-like-it-was-painted-ugly look.  Thanks.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/th2004r/propane)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)

igor455@home.com

- ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BE0C30.9CFDE100
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D320243003-10111998><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial =
size=3D2>Hey=20
Igor,</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D320243003-10111998><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial =

size=3D2></FONT></SPAN><SPAN class=3D320243003-10111998><FONT =
color=3D#0000ff=20
face=3DArial size=3D2>You got some new fancy font setup or =
something?&nbsp; Why am I=20
blue?<BR><BR>
<P><FONT size=3D2>Ray </FONT></FONT></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"=20
size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>=20
oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca =
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]<B>On=20
Behalf Of</B> Igor T. '81 DRB 455<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, November 09, =
1998=20
12:31 PM<BR><B>To:</B> oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca<BR><B>Subject:</B> =
Interior=20
Painting<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>I am soon to get my car back from the body shop.&nbsp; The car will =
be=20
metallic blue with silver stripes.&nbsp; The interior is old, warn =
gold.&nbsp; I=20
would like to change it to gray.&nbsp; My dad does seats, so he will be =
willing=20
to reupholster a set of buckets (by the way, which car will buckets fit=20
from.&nbsp; A few times at the local yard I have seen the black swivel =
in a=20
Cutlass or a Regal.&nbsp; Will these fit my '81 Delta).&nbsp; I will =
change the=20
carpet and headliner to gray.&nbsp; The door upholstery my dad can also=20
do.&nbsp; However, as far as the plastic trim goes, is there paint that =
you can=20
get to paint this.&nbsp; If so, what kind of results am I looking =
at.&nbsp;=20
Decent look or look-like-it-was-painted-ugly look.&nbsp; Thanks.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>Igor Todorovic</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)</DIV>
<DIV>1981 Regency (307/th2004r/propane)</DIV>
<DIV>1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><A href=3D"mailto:igor455@home.com">igor455@home.com</A>=20
</DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BE0C30.9CFDE100--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 22:32:32 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: K&N Running Lean?

Jason,
Weren't you the one who said it was alright to run at 230 degrees?  How hot
are you running?

Ray

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Jason Adcock
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 1998 1:29 PM
To: 'G-body Mailing List'; 'Olds List'
Subject: K&N Running Lean?


I've read from a few different threads that a freer flowing intake
tract will make the car run leaner.  I think it's accepted that a
lean condition will cause a ping.  My car is still pinging, even
after the dealer set my timing to stock.  Could it be that my K&N air
filter is letting in too much air, causing it to run lean?

I suppose it's only a few bucks to buy a "regular" air filter, but
thought I'd ask opinions first.

Thanks!

Jason K. Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-mail: jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 22:44:07 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Keyless Entry Troubleshooting

Yeah,
Well my keyless entry just works when it wants to.  My remote's kinda messed
up and I have small pieces of cardboard in it to hold it together tight, but
it still only works when it reeally wnats to.  Quite annoying...

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of OLDS44272@aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 09, 1998 9:20 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Keyless Entry Troubleshooting


      i have a 90 Cutlass Supreme. The jumper wire is located in the truck
next to the power antenna. It is a black wire, just jumper it to ground,like
where the power antenat grounds. Then just push the unlock button on the
remote....SCOTT

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 22:46:09 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: line-locks operation question.

Hi geniuses.
What would happen if you inadvertently engaged linelocks while driving.
Would your brakes then lock in the open position and when you hit the brake
pedal to slow down, for a traffic light let's say, only your back brakes
would engage?

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 22:52:50 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Web page up!!!

Sorry to post this too the list, but that cracks me up.
Yeah, call us a bunch of gays...

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of B. Sanders
Sent: Monday, November 09, 1998 4:54 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: RE: Web page up!!!


 
> Greetings olds heads.
> 
> I finaly got a page up :-) its just for you gays!

Well, I'm not gay, but what the heck... I'll go check it out anyway... ;)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 23:37:52 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: info please

The F-85 was the lowest Olds A body. It was the yellow cab interior, no crome,
and usaly a 6cyl or a 350 with a 2bbl. Get a yearone catalog, and it will tell
you what you car is, when it was made, what colour, etc. The catalog is 5
bucks, but its soo worth it, and 7.50 is refunded off your first order. you
can order a catalog by going to www.yearone.com.
Kelly Erickson
1966 Cutlass 1954 Super "88" and soon to be a 1966 4-4-2 w/455:)
Shoreline, Washington

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 23:34:59 -0500
From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Subject: Fw: Delta for sale 

- ----------




> 
> 
> this is a repost.please do not flame, i need to sell this car.anyone
> interested the price is neg. and i am ready to sell. ----------
> > From: Erik Gertsen <ainode@frontiernet.net>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Delta for sale 
> > 
> > 
> > 	I must sell this car soon, i ahve too many bills and i cannot aff
ord
to
> > keep it. Im hoping somone fro the list will buy it from me. this is my
73
> > delta 88 w/455.It is located in Westtown NY, 10 minutes outside of
> > Middletown. It has a sticking choke(it stops after the car warms up)
and
> > some frame rot (yes, a 1/2 x 4 inch horizontal hole). the only other
> areas
> > of rust are the typical bottom of fenders and over the wheel wells.
front
> > chrome is very nice, door handles are very nice. interior is in great
> > shape. vinyl top is not faded or peeling.paiont is shiny, refigerator
> white
> > in color. bench seat interior, a/c and am radio (working). complete.
dont
> > know the head codes. Factory hp is over 200, either 230 or 290.All
lights
> > work, trans shifts smoothly.Factory 4bbl rochester carb.Brand new
cooper
> > tires front and rear, 235/75/15.Factory hubcaps not rusted or dented.
New
> > front brakes, pads and master cylinder. New water pump. This car was my
> > baby. Please somone give it a good home or diginfied death as an engine
> > donor for another olds.  im asking $600 neg. You can drive it home
> without
> > getting pulled over.(914)-726-3566 anyone wants more details email me
> > privately ainode@frontiernet.net . Thank You.
> > 
> > erik gertsen

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 21:53:03 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Web page up!!!

> > Greetings olds heads.
> >
> > I finaly got a page up :-) its just for you gays!
> 
> Well, I'm not gay, but what the heck... I'll go check it out anyway... ;)

Heh heh...  Must be a loosely translated shorthand combination between guys and
gals...   Wait, I guess that makes a little too much sense.....  ;)

That car is just ~way~ too cool!!!  

- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 00:04:23 +0000
From: "Joe Gerschutz" <gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu>
Subject: Exhaust Restrictor???  Hmm . . .

>EFE = Early Fuel Evaporation, Not an emissions device, only operates
>when cold, below 70 degrees F.  Blocks drivers side manifold exit 
>off, and forces all exhaust in the intake, rapidly heating the 
>intake and improving cold emissions by warming the engine very 
>quickly so that the CC and O2 sensor reach operational temps.  Helps 
>cold drivability.

When I took the anemic Buick 231 out of my Cutlass, I noticed it had 
some sort of exhaust restictor on the end of the manifold.  It 
consisted of a solenoid linked to a plate the rotated inside the 
manifold opening and closing off the exhasut. Is this the EFE?
 Joe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 00:05:20 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: Exhaust Restrictor???  Hmm . . .

My 1966 CUtlass does the same thing. When you start it, only steam comes out
of the left pipe. After running for about 10 minutes, both pipes are steaming.
My dads 68 CUtlass does it, my moms Chrysler does it (318 2bbl :P) and my dads
chevelle does it. My friends Trans Am does it too, so yeah, its stock i'd say.
Kelly Erickson
1966 CUtlass, 54 Super 88, soon to have a 66 4-4-2 with a 455:)
www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 20:59:38 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: info please

At 09:15 PM 11/9/98 -0500, you wrote:
>     I have a couple of questions what does f-85 mean? It is printed on a
>sticker on the door of my car. Where can i find FAQ 

the FAQ is at www.442.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 21:05:44 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: line-locks operation question.

At 10:46 PM 11/9/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi geniuses.
>What would happen if you inadvertently engaged linelocks while driving.
>Would your brakes then lock in the open position and when you hit the brake
>pedal to slow down, for a traffic light let's say, only your back brakes
>would engage?
>
yes and no. (not to helpful huh?)

If it is a older simple system the is just a mechanical valve, they would
lock open.
Most of the newer line lock "kits" incorperate speed sensors and/or other
safegaurds.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 00:12:14 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Cam and manifold ID's

    Got a couple of questions.
________

I'll give it a shot.

===========
First, what is the difference between
the camshafts used on 2bbl and 4bbl 1971 Cutlasses, both with 350 CID,
automatic trans, A/C, and 8.5:1 compression?
________

The FAQ is correct (as corroborated by the 1971 Service Manual), in 1971
all A-body 350 Olds motors except the 4bbl MT used P/N 400084 cam with 250
deg intake duration, 264 deg exhaust duration, 0.400" lift on both, and a
whopping 36 deg of overlap.  Note that this cam was widely used on 350
motors from 1968 until 1976.  Four bbl MT 350 motors in 71 got cam 402486,
with 262 deg intake, 274 deg exhaust, 0.440" lift, and a whole 44 deg of
overlap.  Note that these duration numbers are all measured at a mythical
0" lift, which is almost impossible to measure but lends impressive
duration numbers for advertising.  Olds was notorious for being, shall we
say, optimistic in their advertised cam durations.

===========

According to Year One, the 4bbl cams are "bigger" (their word).
________

I'll wager they are referring to the MT cam.  Note, however, that it is
commonplace to grind so-called "cheater cams" for stock class racing.
Since what really matters is duration at a lift number like 0.050", as
opposed to 0", cam grinders will craft a lobe profile which has a much
faster opening and closing ramp, but the same advertised duration, lift,
and overlap.  The result is a cam with much more valve "curtain" time, and
a resulting increase in air moved into and out of the combustion chamber.
It isn't the absolute numbers that matter as much as the area under the
curve.

===========

Secondly, are there any ID numbers on the intake manifold,
besides the casting number, that would identify it as being of a
specific year and car?
________

There's a casting date code on the underside of the manifold, on the heat
crossover.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1596
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