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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1531


oldsmobile-digest       Monday, October 5 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1531



Re: EGR Valve
Re: 69 Olds : Running rough Agin'
Re: 69 Olds : Running rough Agin'
Re: Carlisle report
Re: 1968 - 1969 442 and MPG
'84 & earlier heads, will they fit? (87 olds)
Re: Larry Simpson Contact Info Needed!
RE: '84 & earlier heads, will they fit? (87 olds)
Re: '73 EGR hook-up
Re: '73 EGR hook-up
RE: Exhaust FYI  Att: Mike Rothe
RE: 68-75+ Olds Parts
Re: 69 Olds : Running rough Agin'
Re: 1968 - 1969 442 and MPG
Re: Cutlass GT?
Re: 1968 - 1969 442 and MPG
Re: camaro camaro camaro camaro.....
kill switch
Re: Wife must be smoking something, "buy an olds" she says
Re: kill switch
Re: non-olds..
77 olds 350 questions
Re: kill switch
Re: 1968 - 1969 442 and MPG
Re: Cutlass GT?
Re: Needed:  Cutlass Supreme/Salon Logo Pics
Re: Needed:  Cutlass Supreme/Salon Logo Pics
[none]
Re: Valve-Piston Impact and Non-Intrusive Diagnosos Was: Timing Chain
RE:
RE: My Cutlass hates me (very very ong)
METRIC TRANNY.
More Timing Chain
Re: Kill Switch...
RE:
RE: METRIC TRANNY.
Re: Carlisle report
Re: Carlisle report
Re:
MCC Autofest report
Re: More Timing Chain

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 17:17:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: EGR Valve

> I hooked it directly to 20 inches of manifold vacuum and it won't open. I
> say it's toast. List agree?

Some backpressure EGR valves require some exhaust backpressure before the
valve will open, even if vacuum is applied.  It is probably easiest
to test yours on the car, engine running, with the throttle above idle.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 17:20:57 -0400
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@pa.net>
Subject: Re: 69 Olds : Running rough Agin'

Bob Blanchard wrote : Never coonect vac advance to
manifold  only to ported connection ....

Okay :  which is ported connection?

Ken Swick
swickka@pa.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 15:40:18 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: 69 Olds : Running rough Agin'

At 05:20 PM 10/4/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Bob Blanchard wrote : Never coonect vac advance to
>manifold  only to ported connection ....
>
>Okay :  which is ported connection?
>

Without hooking up gauges, the easiest way to tell
is to put your finger over a carb conection. If it has no vacuum at idle
and vacuum increases as you rev the engine, it is ported vacuum.
these conections are ussually higher on the carb, but it varies.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 18:42:42 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Carlisle report

Padavano.Joe@orbital.com wrote:

> Yes, that's why I was so surprized to see it.  As I said, it was a real 68
> model, including the correct raised 442 emblems molded into the fenders and
> trunk, in the proper 68 font.  Had a correct black grille, chrome plastic
> bumpers, etc.  Blew me away, but as I said, for $200, I've bought _real_
> 442s.

Maybe someone was using a '69 kit with a '68 promo body?

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 15:46:32 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: 1968 - 1969 442 and MPG

At 01:58 PM 10/4/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Listmembers,
> My 1969 442 is getting only 10.5 mpg in town driving.  I have had the
>car for some time but never checked the mpg before today.  The car had a
>complete tune up about 1,000 miles ago.  Is this typical for a 69 442?
>The car has a very mild cam in the original engine and 3:23 gears. I
>thought the mpg would be better than 10.5 mpg.  What kind of mpg do your
>400 c.i.d. 442s get?
>
>
It isn't a 442 or 400 cid (maybe I shouldn't reply), but my
'66 Vista-Cruiser with 403 and a little higher rear-end gets
10-10.5 whether or not i'm on Highway or in city.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 13:49:50 -0500
From: David Harms <dph0569@flash.net>
Subject: '84 & earlier heads, will they fit? (87 olds)

Hey all, i posted once before about fitting an after market air intake on a
87 olds, was told the ports were smaller than 85 and earlier, just
wondering if i went to a yard and bought some 5A's of an 84 or earlier 307
(same engine i have) if they would work on my block, im sure they would,
just wanted to know before i wasted a bunch of time going and finding them.

	-Thanks
	-David

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 17:57:03 -0400
From: "laurencesimpson" <laurencesimpson@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Larry Simpson Contact Info Needed!

Dear Jerry:

    You have my permission to use to photo of my 1988 H/O as shown on the
HOCA list.  By the way the car is for sale.  It looks as good as the photo,
and I am the original owner.  See ad on HOCA website.

Larry Simpson
1988 H/O
1979 H/O
1969 H/O
and 1 rice burner
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
To: Olds Mail List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, October 03, 1998 7:25 PM
Subject: Larry Simpson Contact Info Needed!


>Does anyone know what Larry Simpson's (Owner of an 88 Hurst, as well as
>contributor to the FAQ) E-Mail address is?
>
>I'd like to get his personal clearence to use the Photo displayed on the
>Hurst Olds Club's Web Page.  If this happens, It will be on display at
>the G-Body Organization Homepage, in the Hurst Column of course..
>--
>                - Jerry Christopher -
>IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
>       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 19:02:31 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: '84 & earlier heads, will they fit? (87 olds)

On Friday, October 02, 1998 2:50 PM, David Harms [SMTP:dph0569@flash.net] 
wrote:
> Hey all, i posted once before about fitting an after market air intake on a
> 87 olds, was told the ports were smaller than 85 and earlier, just
> wondering if i went to a yard and bought some 5A's of an 84 or earlier 307
> (same engine i have) if they would work on my block, im sure they would,
> just wanted to know before i wasted a bunch of time going and finding them.

David, they will work, as long as you take the intake as well.  I'm not sure
about pistons, though.
 Also, check the FAQ, but I think it says that the 5A heads have 67cc 
combustion
chambers and the 7A's have 64cc chambers.

I'm not sure about how these differences would work themselves out, just trying
to point out the differences.

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 19:13:03 EDT
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: '73 EGR hook-up

there is a port on the front lower passenger side of the carb.  this opens the
egr whenever the engine's rpm's are above idle.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 16:22:15 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: '73 EGR hook-up

At 07:13 PM 10/4/98 -0400, you wrote:
>there is a port on the front lower passenger side of the carb.  this opens
the
>egr whenever the engine's rpm's are above idle.
>

thanks alot.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 19:43:13 -0400
From: wolfwoman98@monad.net
Subject: RE: Exhaust FYI  Att: Mike Rothe

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 21:57:36 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust FYI

<snipped>

Thanks for the info.  Now I wonder, if you have a G-body H/O, or 442, at

180 horsepower, you get 396 scfm for single, or 198 for duals.  Since
you have a single exhaust type system, (catalytic converter which splits

OUT into two mufflers), I would assume you would need to figure in that
both mufflers would be considered as one for calculations?  By the way,
it's a 2.25" system.  As with any split system, you would be reducing
backpressure considerably by this method, thereby freeing up a couple of

horsepower for sure.  Any input on this?

Mike Rothe
_________________________________________________________
The best solution for this scenario would be to follow the factory
routing, but bump the exhaust size up from the factory size by 1/4 inch,
if the rest of the car is still stock.  If the engine has been modified,
but the converter still needs to be used, the best bet for this is to
call the tech support of your preferred exhaust brand, as it will be
splitting hairs from here.  Of course, if you have a car so modified it
gets low ET's in the 1/4 mile, well then, you're probably not using the
converter anymore. ;-)


Thanks for askin'........

Stephani

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 16:31:04 -0700
From: "Bruce Camilli" <bcam@vel.net>
Subject: RE: 68-75+ Olds Parts

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BDEFB4.62962240
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi,
Looking for right and left door panels and armrest bases, manual windows =
and door locks, for a 1970 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Convertible 2-dr in =
White. I am also looking for a drivers side door panel in white for a =
1975 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale Conv. electric windows/door locks and a =
dash pad in Red.
Thanks,
Bruce Camilli


- -----Original Message-----
From:	Jim & Joanne Chermack [SMTP:chermac@exis.net]
Sent:	Sunday, October 04, 1998 9:11 AM
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:	Re: 68-75+ Olds Parts

 << File: ATT00001.html >>                                              =
C&M Classic Parts
                           1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                                    (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
                                             <chermac@exis.net>
                                                   OCA# 24275
   =20
    Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm,  Sat 9:00 am - 3:00 pm,  Sunday =
Closed
    *We accept all major Credit Cards. VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and =
Discover.*
   =20
   =20
                                             OLDS Restoration Parts
   =20
   =20
    New arrival "Parts"
    68-72 Conv Top (black, w/galss window)  $185.00
    70 OAI Hood (nice, 2 small stress cracks)  $750.00=20
    70-72 SSI Wheels (4) $200.00 set
    70-73 SSII/III Wheels (5)  $250.00 set
    70-73 SSII Wheels (4, off 72 H/O with orig paint.) $200.00 set
    68-72 400/455 Notched Valve Covers  $65.00 pr
    70-75 Sport Steering Wheel (mint wheel lots of grain, black, with =
hub and center)  $225.00
    83-84 Hurst Olds Lightning Rod shifter assm (no cable, nice)  =
$280.00
    307-403 Edelbrock Performer Intake (nice)  $120.00
    69-72 Tilt Steering Column (1 console, 1 column shift) $150 cons, =
$125 col.
    68-72 Z-bar  $45.00 ea
    68-72 4 spd. Z bar support (bolt on) $15.00=20
    69-72 Seat Backs & Lower Sides (nice orig, black or tan)  $100.00 =
set
    =20
    New Repro Parts:
    70-72 Dash Chrome Bead (new)  $58.00 ea
    67-70 Turn Signal Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea
    67-70 Tilt Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea=20
    67-75 TH400 Shifter Cable Bracket (Repro)  $28.00
    68-72 License Plate Bracket (Repro)  $26.50
    68-70 W-31 Cam Kits (w/lifters & lube)  $132.00
    68-72 1/4 Glass Chrome Moldings (Repro)  $92.00 pr
    69-72 Rear Spoiler (3 piece repro)  $255.00
    70-72 Hood Pin Kits (NEW, original supplier, complete) $115.00
    71or72 442 Grille Numeral Sets (repro, either year)  $34.00 set
    71-72 442 Hood Emblem (repro, Non OAI) $20.00
    =20
    New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts 1964-1972 Olds/Cutlass/442
    68 (N.O.S.) Cutlass/442 Turn Signal Lens (front, 2 prs)  $35.00 pr
    72 (N.O.S.) Cutlass Supreme, H/O LH grille $50.00
    68-72 W-30 Stick Cam .475 lift/ 328 dur. (N.O.S. in box)  $275.00
    68-72+ TH Torque Converter Cover (Plastic, N.O.S.)  $36.00 ea
    66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
    68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
    68-7? Under Hood Light kits (N.O.S.)  $40.00 ea
    69-72 442 Trunk Numeral Sets (N.O.S.) $50.00 set
    69-70 442 Hood Numeral Sets  (N.O.S.) $50.00 set
    69-72 442 Fender Numeral Sets (N.O.S.) $38.00 set
    70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
   =20
    70-72 Hurst Dual Gate Shifter Cable (N.O.S.)  $55.00
    70-72 OAI Air Cleaner Springs (N.O.S)  $5.00 ea
   =20
    71-72 Turn Signal Lens (N.O.S.)  $90.00 pr =20
    71-72 Front Grille Plastics (N.O.S)  $35.00 ea                       =
=20
    72 Cutlass Supreme & Hurst/Olds Grilles (N.O.S.)  $120.00 pr
   =20
    73-75 (N.O.S.) Cutlass "S", 442,  H/O RH Qtr Panel  $350.00
    75-77 (N.O.S.) Cutlass Supreme Header Panel  $150.00
   =20
    73-77 Cutlass/442/Hurst Wiper Switch (N.O.S.)  $22.00
   =20
   =20
    USED PARTS:
    68 Cutlass/442
   =20
    68 8 Track Player (needs work, nice unit, housing broken)  $65.00
   =20
    68 Front Bumper (nice w 2 small dings)  $125.00
    68 442 Rear Bumper (very nice) $250.00
    68 442 Air Cleaner Heat tube assm (2 pieces)  $30.00
    68-69 442 Glove Box Door (black)  $18.00
    68-69 LH Plastic Inner Fender (w/black washer bottle)  $65.00
    68-69 442/W-30 400 Intake Manifold  $50.00
    68 Cutlass/442 Backup Lens (nice)  $22.00 pr
    68 Trunk Vinyl Top Molding & Plate  $25.00
    68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
    68 Cutlass Rear Bumper (core)  $75.00
    68-69 14x6 SSII Wheels (set of 5)  $200.00
    68 AM Radio  $25.00
    68  8-Track Unit (2) (housing cracked, needs plastic one)  $55.00 ea
    68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00             =20
    Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set                              =20
    68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00                  =
  =20
    68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $25.00 ea                                   =
        =20
    68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea                               =20
    68-72 B-Pillar Molding Sets (black, mint) $27.50 pr=20
   =20
    69 Cutlass/442
   =20
    69 Cutlass, H/O, 442 Dash Woodgrain (mint orig, minus ash tray)  =
$30.00=20
    69 Cutlass/442 Conv trunk lid (mint)  $150.00
    68-69 442 Glove Box Door (black)  $18.00
    68-69 LH Plastic Inner Fender (w/black washer bottle)  $65.00
    69 Front Bumper (no pits, bent from tow truck)  $85.00
    69 Hood Tongue $20.00
    68-69 442/W-30 400 Intake Manifold  $50.00
    69 Turn Signal Lens (nice)  $25.00 pr
    69 Front Grille Center Filler (between grilles)  $8.00
    69 Full Hubcaps (nice)  $35.00 set
    68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
    69 Cutlass RH Grille (nice, used)  $40.00
    69 Radiator Core Support 3 Row (mint, no rust holes)  $150.00
    69-72 Hood Hinges  $40.00 pr
    69-70 "S" Hood Louver Chrome  $25.00 pr
    69-70 "S" Hood Louver Moldiings  $25.00 pr
    68-72 Windshield Molding Sets  $45.00 set                            =
    =20
    69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
    69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $55.00 ea
    69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $25.00 ea
   =20
    70 Cutlass/442
   =20
    70-72 Dash Plastic (radio area , no woodgrain) mint $45.00
   =20
    70-72 Floor Console (regular auto, black, no cracks, complete)  =
$150.00
    70 442/SX Cutout Rear Bumper (nice rechrome, not perfect)  $275.00
    70 W-30 Intake (Early w/ Oldsmobile W-455) date code 11/13/69  =
$575.00
    70 Hood Tongue $40.00
    70 Front Bumper (core)  $85.00
    70-72 350 4 bbl Intake Manifold  $55.00
    70 Fender Eybrows (nice, no pits)  $45.00 pr
    70 RH Rally 350 grille (repaired, nice)  $75.00
    70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
    70 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr
    70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (excellent)  $115.00
    70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
    70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea            =20
    70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00                                  =
 =20
    69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00                           =
    =20
    70 "S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr        =20
    70 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $90.00                                  =

    70-72 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
    70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens (restored)  $17.00 ea
    70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens (restored) $23.00 ea
   =20
    71 Cutlass/442
    70-72 Dash Plastic (radio area , no woodgrain) mint $45.00
   =20
    70-72 Floor Console (regular auto, black, no cracks, complete)  =
$150.00
    70-71 Cutlass Supreme Side Marker Lights (mint)  $70.00 set
   =20
    71 Cutlass "S" Grilles (nice used)  $100.00 pr
    71 LH Cutlass Supreme Grille (nice)  $85.00
   =20
    70-72 350 4 bbl Intake Manifold  $55.00
   =20
    70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 pr
    71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
    71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
    70-72 C/S LH/RH Side Glass  $25.00 ea=20
    71 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr
   =20
    72 Cutlass/442
    70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 pr
    70-72 Dash Plastic (radio area , no woodgrain) mint $45.00
   =20
    70-72 Floor Console (regular auto, black, no cracks, complete)  =
$150.00
   =20
    70-72 350 4 bbl Intake Manifold  $55.00
   =20
    71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
    72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00                                  =

    72 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr           =20
    72 Tail Light Lens  $13.00 ea
   =20
   =20
    85 442 Parts
    Loads of (N.O.S.) 85 442 Parts (Inquire on prices)
    Rear Hood Molding and (2) Top Fender Moldings
    Pwr Antenna
    Front Bumper Chrome Stripes (2)
    LH&RH Taillight Assm
    LH&RH Taillight Bezels
    Rear Bumper Chrome Stripes and clip ends
    Rear Bumper Emblem "Oldsmobile"
    Front Bumper Emblem "Oldsmobile"
    Dash Emblem "Oldsmobile"
    Rear Window molding set
    Dash Gauge Plastic Lens
    Front Windshield Molding Set
    Front Windshield Large Lower Molding
    (4) Front and Rear Side Marker Lens
    (2) Dash Vents (Center)
    (2) Dash Vents (Long Pass. Side)
    Lower Dash Vent
    Lower Dash Vent Bezel
    Rear View Mirror
    LH&RH Rear Side Windows (w/chrome Bead)
    LH&RH Door Seals
    Under Hood Fluids Caps (set of 3)
    Radiator Insulators (Upper and Lower)
    LH&RH Door Sill Plates
    Pwr Window Switch (2 botton Drivers side)
    Air Cleaner Air Inlet Duct
    Steering Wheel Center Rubber (Gray)
    LH&RH Door Handles
    LH&RH Turn Signal Lens Assm
    LH&RH Side Window Molding sets=20
    LH&RH Grilles=20
    LH&RH Headlight Bezels=20
   =20
    73 and Newer and Big Car Parts:
    Late 73-74 Olds HEI distributors (non cumputer, w/cap and coil)  =
$45.00 ea
    73-75 442 Console and Shifter (Maroon)  $120.00
    73-77 Omega Floor Shift Tilt  $65.00
    75 Omega Front Fenders (very nice pair)  $180.00 pr
    75 Omega Bucket Seats (nice, maroon cloth)  $85.00 pr
    72 Delta 88 Qtr End caps  $25.00 pr
    72 Delta 88/ Ninety Eight Owners Manual (nice) $5.00
   =20
    =20
    New reproduction parts:
    Convertible Top Boots (Correct Grains for each different year)  =
$89.00ea
    64  Black, Red, Lt. Blue, Fawn, Saddle, Turqoise, White
    65  Same as 64 =20
    66-67 Black, Red, Light Blue, Med. Blue, Bronze, Turqoise, White, =
Gold
    68-72 Black, Red, Parchment, Lt. Blue, Teal Blue, Green Gold, Gold, =
Pearl,
    Dk Blue, Dk. Green, Lt. Green, Lt. Saddle, Dk Saddle, Olive Green, =
Royal
    Blue, White, Sandalwood,=20
   =20
    Molded Carpet Sets  $95.00=20
    64-67 - (Black, Red, Med. Blue, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Maroon)
    68-72 - (Black, Red, Maroon, Turqoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Med. Blue, =
Dk. Green,
    Green Gold, Lt. Green, Teal Blue, Saddle, Sandalwood)
    73-77 - (Same as 68-72 except Green Gold)
   =20
    Door Panels  64-72  $265.00 for a set of all 4
   =20
    Seat Covers  64-72  $335.00 front and rear sets any year or color.
   =20
    Vinyl Dash Overlays (makes your wood dash areas look like carbon =
fiber)
    $50.00 set=20
   =20
    Lifetime Guarantee on all correct bead window felts  $92.00 set =
(inner & outer)
    66-67 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (correct bead type)=20
    68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (not Supreme Coupes, correct =
bead)=20
    68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv (Outers only, correct bead)  $50.00
   =20
    Replacement Window Felts (Flat type)  $60.00 set (inner & outer)
    64-72 Cutlass/442 (state year and model)
   =20
    Glove Box Liners
    64-67 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
    68-69 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
    70-72 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
   =20
    Qrt Seals
    70-72 Cutlass Supreme & Conv Qtr End seals  $13.00 pr
   =20
    Hood Insulation
    64-65 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
    66 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
    67 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
    68-70 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner (wclips)  $18.00
    70-72 Cutlass Supreme Hood Liner (w/clips)  $18.00
    73-77 Cutlass $28.00
   =20
    Liner Clips
    Round Clips  $1.00 ea
    Square Clips  $1.00 ea
   =20
    A-Arm Shields
    68-72 Upper A-Arm dust shields  $14.99 pr


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- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BDEFB4.62962240--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 19:32:53 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: 69 Olds : Running rough Agin'

Ken Swick wrote:

> Okay :  which is ported connection?

        Ken,

        Assuming you are talking about the Edelbrock Performer Carb and
not the Edelbrock Q-Jet, (you said you had an Edelbrock carb in your
original post) the Edelbrock website (www.edelbrock.com) indicates the
right vacuum port is full-time vacuum and the the large center vacuum
port is PCV.  This leaves the left one to be the ported vacuum.  BTW,
these indications are as you look at the carb from the front.  You may
find the Edelbrock Owner's Manual, which is fully reproduced online, to
be helpful.  When you go to the site, follow the link to Automotive
parts.  When the page loads, the carburetor section has several links by
it, one of which is the owner's manual.

        Hope this helps

        Thomas P. Smith
        1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 17:52:56 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 1968 - 1969 442 and MPG

I've got a 455 with a mild cam, 10.1CR, dual exasut and 3.23s.   I get 10.5
mpg in the city IF IF IF I stay off the secondaries.  Difficult thing to do.
Igor.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/propane/th2004r)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)

- -----Original Message-----
From: flynt myrick <f_myrick@hotmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, October 04, 1998 3:15 PM
Subject: 1968 - 1969 442 and MPG


>Listmembers,
> My 1969 442 is getting only 10.5 mpg in town driving.  I have had the
>car for some time but never checked the mpg before today.  The car had a
>complete tune up about 1,000 miles ago.  Is this typical for a 69 442?
>The car has a very mild cam in the original engine and 3:23 gears. I
>thought the mpg would be better than 10.5 mpg.  What kind of mpg do your
>400 c.i.d. 442s get?
>
>
>Flynt Myrick
>f_myrick@hotmail.com
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 19:54:18 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Cutlass GT?

> > Anyone know any kinda specs on what they had in 'em?
>
> Plain-jane 307 with 7.5" rear axle.  The GT was strictly an appearance
package. > > > Are they 88, or 87? > > 1988 only. > Seen one on the side of
the road today.  Parked in a parking lot by itself.  I was just driving by.
Nose piece was a little smushed.  White with silver bottom, GT stickers, and
spoiler.  Didn't notice much else.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 19:55:25 EDT
From: DEOVIVERE@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1968 - 1969 442 and MPG

In a message dated 98-10-04 18:51:31 EDT, you write:

<< It isn't a 442 or 400 cid (maybe I shouldn't reply), but my
 '66 Vista-Cruiser with 403 and a little higher rear-end gets
 10-10.5 whether or not i'm on Highway or in city.
  >>


I drive a 65 Cutlass with a 330 and that's about the mileage I get.  My carb
is in rough shape (lots of leakdown, inconsistent idle and mixture,
secondaries that sometimes don't open and somtimes stay open - all despite a
recent rebuild), to which I attribute much of the problem.  I had a 72 Cutlass
with a 350 that got 15-17 mpg.  Shoot, my 71 SX got better mileage with its
455 and throaty secondaries!

I'm VERY much interested in possible solutions.

Tom Simmons

65 Cutlass
70 SX W-32

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 20:02:42 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: camaro camaro camaro camaro.....

Oldsmagnet wrote:
>
> Seen the new hot rod mag yet?  My god!  These $@!#$@#s are out to

> Now returning you to your regularly scheduled programming, whilst I return to
> swallowing my fingers........

A FEW RANTS SNIPPED FOR BREVITY.....

Uh, Charley, did they deliver your sedative in Kamaro or sumpthin?  I
don't subscribe to the hot rod type mags any more since I don't own a
Chev.  Not to bad mouth them or anything, but I like driving something a
little different and I really like restoring something different.  And,
yes, before anyone rags me about my daily mobile office being a Lincoln,
it is also my Olds parts car.  Don't want to put too many miles on a car
I intend to keep and pass on to my daughters when I croak in about 20-30
years (I hope).  First love is my daughters, second (hmmn)  better make
it the wife as she is looking over my shoulder at the moment and third,
well if you have to ask you aint been paying attention.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 20:06:39 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: kill switch

List,
        My kill switch grounds the coil - car cranks but will not start -
switch is hidden in my ........ Wait a minute !!!!!   well, it's hidden ....



The General

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 20:27:29 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Wife must be smoking something, "buy an olds" she says

Ken wrote:
>
> I almost fainted when my wife says last night "I want you to buy me a
> convertible Olds. Not manual or umm stick shift this time so I can actually
> drive it!".  Already the wheels are turning.  I'm thinking a 72 Indy pace
> car would fit the bill nicely.  Are these cars abundant?  What would be a
> fair price for say a #2-#3 example?

Go to the bank and get a second mortgage on the house to make the
interest tax deductible.  Get $25,000 or so approved so you will have
more than you should need because you can always get less.  Then do a
fast, thorough search and buy that puppy BEFORE SHE CHANGES HER MIND.
This opportunity may not EVER come again.  Trust me, if my wife said
that I would be at the banker's house tonight.  Good luck and
www//traderonline.com here you come.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 19:36:00 -0500
From: John Foster <jdfoster@n-link.com>
Subject: Re: kill switch

Well General,

	Is it hidden in your pearl pistol holster?

					John

Patton wrote:
>
> List,
>         My kill switch grounds the coil - car cranks but will not start -
> switch is hidden in my ........ Wait a minute !!!!!   well, it's hidden ....
>
> The General

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 20:21:26 -0400
From: "Steve C" <cutlass@citlink.net>
Subject: Re: non-olds..

I own a 1985 Olds 442, I would like to install a rear spoiler from a 83 or
84 hurst Olds. Does anybody know of where  can purchase an original rear
spoiler
- -----Original Message-----
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, October 03, 1998 10:02 PM
Subject: Re: non-olds..


>absolutely
>
>JJP442@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> Art,
>> Plannin' on scammin' a few extra miles?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 20:49:55 +0000
From: "Joe Gerschutz" <gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu>
Subject: 77 olds 350 questions

A couple questions for y'all about a 77 olds 350 I put in my 82
Cutlass..  (1)  Does anyone have a vacuum diagram for this thing?
(2) The car does not run properly until  warmed up.  It will stall if
I don't continue to give it gas.  I have tried adjusting the choke
but to no sucess.  When cold, I turn the choke coil until the
butterfly is closed under tension.  If I up the throttle any though,
the butterfly will stay open.  There is a small adjustment screw
below the choke housing on a linkage which I think is the fast idle
cam riser or something like that.  If i turn it too far, it will hold
the throttle open.  When I press on the linkage this screw is on, it
allows full unabated movement of the butterfly.  When I open the
throttle, this linkage moves and the butterfly gets messed up?  The
carb is a stock rodchester 4bbl.  Any help would greatly be
appreciated as this is very inconvienent.  Also, my idle solenoid is
not hooked up, but I don't think that affects it too much.
(3) There is no timing tab on the engine any more.  Is there
any way to set the timing other then by ear?  Thanks.

Joe Gerschutz
82 CSC



- --------------------------------------------------
- ---Joe Gerschutz------------------------------
- ---University of Dayton----------------------
- ---gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu--------
- --------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 18:57:13 -0600
From: "Fred Orcutt" <f_m_o@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: kill switch

On the older Oldses, you can eliminate the pesky resistor wire and run a
wire direct from the IGN stud on the fuse block to a F*rd-style ballast
resistor on the firewall, then to the coil.  If you put a switch in the line
in the interior at some point after the IGN contact, the car will crank
beautifully but never start, like the General describes.  The ballast is
necessary to get the reduced voltage to the coil; I don't think its possible
anymore to get any resistor wire which meets factory specs.  At least I
could never find anyone in any parts store who had any inkling of what one
was, much less come up with one matching specs.


- -----Original Message-----
From: Patton <patton@ComCAT.COM>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, October 04, 1998 6:12 PM
Subject: kill switch


>
>List,
>        My kill switch grounds the coil - car cranks but will not start -
>switch is hidden in my ........ Wait a minute !!!!!   well, it's hidden
....
>
>
>
>The General
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 15:58:44 -0700
From: Mr Ada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: 1968 - 1969 442 and MPG

flynt myrick wrote:

> thought the mpg would be better than 10.5 mpg.  What kind of mpg do your
> 400 c.i.d. 442s get?

Same.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 21:28:10 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: Cutlass GT?

JJP442@aol.com wrote:
>
> Jerry,
> Would that be the Cutlass with the F-41 suspension badge on the trunk lid???

GT's a Real Car now...  Honest.

What's this F-41 Badge?  And where can I see a pic?  If it's on a
G-Body, gimme the pic, and you'll see it on the G-Body Organization
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 21:34:32 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: Needed:  Cutlass Supreme/Salon Logo Pics

S-MAN wrote:
>
> Hey Jerry,
>          Are you also in charge of adding the pics to the gallery? If
> so,I'll be glad to send you one of mine....:)

Not quite in charge, but if you send it to me, I'll drop it in!
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 21:37:44 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: Needed:  Cutlass Supreme/Salon Logo Pics

JJP442@aol.com wrote:
>
> Jerry,
> What exactly are you building??

HTTP://WWW.G-Body.Org

G-Body Organization - Home World for 78-88 Cutlass (all models) I am the
Olds Rep...  And we are kicking butt!

- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 21:35:02 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: [none]

What is the origin of the METRIC 200 tranny? Is it a Canadian release?
What's different from it to the standard 200-4R?

Gary J. Couse
'86 Custom Cutlass

gjcouse@francomm.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 21:41:55 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Valve-Piston Impact and Non-Intrusive Diagnosos Was: Timing Chain

Possibility of valves striking piston:

Joe?
Your friend(s) who had valve hit due to bad chain.
Was that on an Olds? Did your friend adjust timing regularly?
_______________

Actually, the car was a F*rd.

====================

I was under the impression that Olds pistons/heads were designed such that
the
valves would not hit even if they were fully open at TDC. Flat, shallow,
deep
dish pizza, mmmmmmmmmmmm.....
_______________

This was actually discussed in the Technical column of Road and Track a
number of months ago.  They referred to the two options as an
"interference" or "non-interference" design.  Obviously, the issue is
whether or not the valves at fully open will impact the piston at TDC.
Apparently with the large dish on low-compression Olds motors this is not a
problem.  I wouldn't want to try it on a W-31 with flat-top pistons,
however.

====================

I would imagine that the addition of a cam with higher than stock lift
could
cause hitting, but that is a non-stock setup, similar to use of domed
pistons,
and any alteration to stock should be done with caution.
_______________

Excellen observation, Karl.

====================

f so, is there any way to check for stretch without taking the motor apart?
>>

OK.
Karl has an idea for this.
Pull off valve cover.
Pull off anything that prevents you from turning the vibrational damper.
Some of you have fan clutches, et alii, so Karl suggests you pull belts
(and
replace if necessary).
Find a valve that is partly open, not one where the lifter is riding the
top
of the cam lobe or the cam base (or whatever it is called, lowest part).
_______________

The theory has merit, but there's an easier way.  Rather than pulling the
valve cover, just pull the distributor cap and observe the rotor.  Turn the
motor one way until the rotor turns.  Now reverse direction.  If there is
appreciable "slop" in the motion of the rotor, it's time for a chain.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 21:58:03 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE:

On Sunday, October 04, 1998 9:35 PM, Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS
[SMTP:gjcouse@francomm.com] wrote: > What is the origin of the METRIC 200
tranny? Is it a Canadian release? > What's different from it to the standard
200-4R?

Not sure about origins, location-wise, but it began before 1980.  The metric 
200
(TH-200-C) is a 3-speed automatic transmission and the 200-4R is the overdrive
version of the TH-200-C, but isn't plagued with the 200's problems.  It's
evident that the OD versions (they came out a little bit later, 1981 maybe?)
have stronger internal parts than the 200's do.

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 22:04:45 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: My Cutlass hates me (very very ong)

I could use some 455 people in NY too...

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
gjcouse@francomm.com
  
'86 Custom Cutlass = "Quincy"


<>-----Original Message-----
<>
<>Steve, you have spent enough money to build two 455's....email me
<>privately,
<>and Ill respond with names and #'s of Olds fanatics in the Dallas
<>area where
<>we live and help you get a good 455 for your car...Collyn Eastham
<>                                          Dallas(Red Oak), Tx
<>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 22:18:56 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: METRIC TRANNY.

Huummm;
My 86 has a 200-4R trans with a metric pan than, as it says METRIC on it.
Yet I definitely have a 4th gear, (OD). Actually I believe it's a converter
lockup, isn't it.

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
gjcouse@francomm.com
  
1986 Custom Cutlass Brougham = "Quincy"

 <>-----Original Message-----
<>> What is the origin, (START), of the METRIC 200 tranny? Is it a Canadian
release?
<>> What's different from it to the standard 200-4R?
<>
<>Not sure about origins, location-wise, but it began before 1980.
<>The metric 200 (TH-200-C) is a
<>3-speed automatic transmission and the 200-4R is the overdrive
<>version of the TH-200-C, but isn't
<>plagued with the 200's problems.  It's evident that the OD
<>versions (they came out a little bit
<>later, 1981 maybe?) have stronger internal parts than the 200's do.
<>
<>Jason Adcock
<>Blacksburg, VA
<>E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
<>Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org
<>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 21:53:59 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: More Timing Chain

Speaking of worn timing chains, I just finished replacing the chain in my
69 442.  I knew that it was in need of replacement, so I had ordered a
Dynagear double roller from Jeg's ($42).  Note that the seller had also
told me that he was unable to properly set the timing, apparently the car
wouldn't run with the timing set to spec.  He assumed that this was due to
the chain being excessively loose.  While the chain _was_ shot, imagine my
surprise when I discovered that the car had a 67-earlier type balancer
(with it's different timing mark).  DOH!  No wonder why he couldn't set the
timing.  I also discovered that the front cover had been changed (remnants
of gold paint from a small block) and the timing pointer and several of the
bolts at the bottom of the front cover had been worn away (?!?).  Suddenly,
the light went on.  The car's original balancer apparently let go at some
time in the past, resulting in this carnage.  Better check those dampers!

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 98 22:23:32 EDT
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: Kill Switch...

At 02:23 PM 10/4/98 -0500, you wrote:
>All I do to make sure nobody can start the car is I take off the Coil to
>distributor wire and take it with me. Most mopes will not realize why it
>wont start and if they did how many thieves carry an coil-to-distributor
>wire.
>
    Well, if they did realize, which is probably unlikely, just using one of
the plug wires would serve the purpose.


   Glenn
   '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 19:43:59 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: RE:

> What is the origin of the METRIC 200 tranny? Is it a Canadian release?
> What's different from it to the standard 200-4R?

My 78 Cutlass Salon has one and it isn't a canadian car.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 22:44:45 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: METRIC TRANNY.

On Sunday, October 04, 1998 10:19 PM, [SMTP:gjcouse@francomm.com] wrote:
> Huummm;
> My 86 has a 200-4R trans with a metric pan than, as it says METRIC on it.
> Yet I definitely have a 4th gear, (OD). Actually I believe it's a converter
> lockup, isn't it.

Well, on mine, the converter lockup does feel like a 4th gear, but the
transmission is only a 3-speed.  The top gear ratio for the 3-speed is a 1:1
and the ratio for the top gear in the 4R, the OD gear, is 0.67:1.  Take a look
at your transmission pan.  If it looks like a square, or perhaps a square-ish
rectangle with one corner "chopped off", you have a TH-200-C, the 3-speed.  If
the transmission pan is obviously longer and more oblique than a square, you
probably have a 4R.  Check your shifter.  If you have "OD, D, 2, 1" or "D, 3,
2, 1" you have the overdrive.  A "D, 2, 1" sequence definitely indicates a
3-speed (the TH-200-C).

(I'm not sure if the OD pan has the word METRIC on it.  If not, you definitely
don't have the OD; if it does, check the indicators above.)

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 20:57:43 -0400
From: "Chris Smetana" <chris@abcs.com>
Subject: Re: Carlisle report

>also got the March 1969 issue of Hot Rod, which has the one and only print
>ad for the W-32.
Good to know

>Spotted, but not purchased, were the following:

>Two 69 O.A.I. air cleaners, one for $300 and one for $550.
I still remember the ~only~ 69 OAI air cleaner I saw at the Centennial had
a price of $750, and it was a real one.  I understand Karl Sarpolis (?) can
convert your single snorkel to dual snorkel.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@onexinc.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 22:52:17 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Carlisle report

><SNIP> a price of $750, and it was a real one.  I understand Karl Sarpolis (?)
can > convert your single snorkel to dual snorkel. >

Speaking of Karl, anyone know how to get hold of him???  I need to talk
to him about some H/O stuff.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 21:05:16 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re:

>> What is the origin of the METRIC 200 tranny? Is it a Canadian release?
>> What's different from it to the standard 200-4R?
>
>Not sure about origins, location-wise, but it began before 1980.  The
metric 200 (TH-200-C) is a
>3-speed automatic transmission and the 200-4R is the overdrive version of
the TH-200-C, but isn't
>plagued with the 200's problems.  It's evident that the OD versions (they
came out a little bit
>later, 1981 maybe?) have stronger internal parts than the 200's do.


I believe that the 200-C has different 1st and 2nd gear ratios, so that is
evidence that the internals are not the same.  I have a 200-4R in my Regency
behind a 307 with 2.56 gears.  It has 241,000kms on the original drivetrain.
The car runs beautiful.  NO PROBLEMS.  I got the car not too long ago and I
recently took the trans in for oil/filter change.  They did the service on
it and told me that the trans is flawless.  Shifts good, runs good, I am
happy.  My friend has a 200-C in his moms Malibu behind the 4.4L V8.  The
car has been in the family since new, driven by his mom vary well and
serviced regularly.  The trans went at 55,000 miles, and now the engine is
going at 65,000 miles.  Terrible.  The car has 2.29s I think.  Igor.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/propane/th2004r)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 22:07:25 -0400
From: "Chris Smetana" <chris@abcs.com>
Subject: MCC Autofest report

Hi everyone,
Well, I got back from the 2nd annual MCC Autofest down in Evansville, IN
(was only there Sat) and the real big news is ... (drum roll please) ... my
W-31 made it there and back without a problem!!!!  So needless to say I was
very excited about that considering I had visions of the motor going kaput
en route.  (FYI, Evansville is about 150 miles south of me and the current
455 that is temporarily in my car has a bearing going bad)

They announced there were approx 3 times as many vehicles there this year
then last, which means roughly 2100 cars :o  The swap meet area (a first
this year) was extremely small, a few chevy vendors and one pontiac vendor,
who incidently I bought my first GTO from.  As for Olds in the show field,
there was mine of course :)  and Kurt Karch's 69 H/O, a 67 Supreme convert
with an owner added ram air setup, 65 4-4-2 hardtop, a 56(?) Starfire
convert and I think a 58 88, along with a couple 85-87 4-4-2.  In the car
corral, there was a 69 H/O for $12K, Kurt Karch rebuilt the motor in it.
It wasn't bad at all, just needed detailing and there where two major paint
bo-bos that were fixed.  Also a 69 4-4-2 hardtop, originally a 4sp, now
sporting a 455 and auto for $6000(?) and a 71 4-4-2 hardtop, that was
repainted and needed some work for $4500.  Meet Dennis Gage, got his
autograph and a picture taken of me and the wife with him.  Great time and
the rain stayed away too.  Hopefully, next year I'll have the original
motor back in along with the bumper scoops, although people will still
think I'm there for the car corral.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@onexinc.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31  now with true road miles on her  :)
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 21:12:49 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: More Timing Chain

My friend with his '79 GMC truck, 350, headers, intake, .... changed the
distributor not too long ago.  I did this for him, and put the new distr. in
the same way the old one came out so the truck started no problem.  Then, I
set the timing to specks, and the thing run terrible.  Took it out for a
drive and it barley moved.  His dad had the motor changed before he died, so
the balancer was painted blue from the original motor, while the new motor
was black.  I immediately suspected wrong balancer, so I advanced the
timing, ran worse, then I started retarding it in 2 deg. increments.  By the
time I was done, I could no longer see the timing mark and had to go by
trial and error.  Got it set so that the truck runs great, but how could I
set the timing FOR SURE.  Any ideas.  Igor.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/propane/th2004r)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM <Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, October 04, 1998 8:21 PM
Subject: More Timing Chain


>Speaking of worn timing chains, I just finished replacing the chain in my
>69 442.  I knew that it was in need of replacement, so I had ordered a
>Dynagear double roller from Jeg's ($42).  Note that the seller had also
>told me that he was unable to properly set the timing, apparently the car
>wouldn't run with the timing set to spec.  He assumed that this was due to
>the chain being excessively loose.  While the chain _was_ shot, imagine my
>surprise when I discovered that the car had a 67-earlier type balancer
>(with it's different timing mark).  DOH!  No wonder why he couldn't set the
>timing.  I also discovered that the front cover had been changed (remnants
>of gold paint from a small block) and the timing pointer and several of the
>bolts at the bottom of the front cover had been worn away (?!?).  Suddenly,
>the light went on.  The car's original balancer apparently let go at some
>time in the past, resulting in this carnage.  Better check those dampers!
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>
>
>

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1531
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