
oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, November 4 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1586



Re: Gear Ratios
Re: W/Z Manifolds
Stuck starter
Re: Baaad Day!!!!!
Re: W-30 Emblem Location
'84 Cutlass Supreme Charging/Electrical Problems
Re: W-30 Emblem Location
Re: which vacuum source for dist.?
Re: what sealant for tranny pan?
Re: Stuck starter
Re: which vacuum source for dist.?
Re: Stuck starter
RE: which vacuum source for dist.?
RE: Question about timing?
RE: Stuck starter
power locks help
Looking for Microsoft Outlook assistance
Re: what sealant for tranny pan?
Re: Baaad Day!!!!!
Re: Baaad Day!!!!!
Re: power locks help
Re: Baaad Day!!!!!
Re: Holley Projection
Re: Interior? Color?
Re: 12-inch Converter & 2.41 gears
69 H/O paint job on Convert?
Re: Gear Ratios
Re: 69 H/O paint job on Convert?
Re: which vacuum source for dist.?
Re: what sealant for tranny pan?
Re: Horn Button
Re: Interior? Color?
buying car
Re: november jwo
Re: which vacuum source for dist.?
Re: lost web site
Re: which vacuum source for dist.?
Performer RPM
Re: Performer RPM
Rims f/s? or trade
Re: Performer RPM
Re: Performer RPM
Re: W-30 Emblem Location
403 vs 307 HO
Re: best 3a reply
Re: Baaad Day!!!!!
Re: 455 running very rich... Questions about adjusting Holley carb.
Re: what sealant for tranny pan?
Re: Performer RPM
Re: best 3a reply
Re: november jwo
Re: best 3a reply

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 15:58:21 -0500 (EST)
From: dsenko@UU.NET (Drew Senko)
Subject: Re: Gear Ratios

> According to my Cars & Parts 442 book:
>
> Code                    Ratio                   Anti-spin
> R2                      2.56                    X
> R3                      2.56
> SA                      2.73
> SB                      2.73                    X
> SD                      3.08                    X
> SE                      3.42
> SH                      3.42                    X
> SR                      3.23
> SS                      3.23                    X
> TM                      3.42                    X
> TO                      3.73                    X


R2 is anti-spin?  I'll have to check my manuals.  I'm pretty
sure my 71 has R2 stamped on it, and I don't think it's an anti-spin
rear end.  It doesn't even seem possible, or at least feasible.  Do
you know how hard it is to spin wheels with a 2.56??!

By the way, I can recommend a lot of things in this world, but 2.56
isn't one of them.  They do great on the highway, but I bet that 2.73
or 3.08 is just as good, while still feeling like a V8 around town.

- --                     ______________                     _
Drew Senko            / Convertibles \                    |\
dsenko@uu.net         \_____Rule!____/     .__====-_._____|_\______
Vienna, VA, USA                     O      [   ___  |-     |  ___  \
http://members.aol.com/drewinva       o o  =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)
_______________________________________________\_/____________\_/_____

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 16:01:28 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: W/Z Manifolds

> Did these happen to come on say, a 69 442?  I had a primo set of these until
> last year when we moved and my wife made me throw them out along with
> a bunch of other old parts.

Well, SORTA.  The 69's (and earlier??) used the same part #, etc...
however, the driver's side only had a heat riser valve in it, spring
loaded.  The later versions had no heat riser valve, but the bosses are
still molded in.

I remember a few years ago finding a 71 VC in the wrecking yards.  Had
the dual exhaust manifolds.  $25 wasn't a bad deal....

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 16:06:26 -0500
From: David Booker <dbooker@mindspring.com>
Subject: Stuck starter

Went to start up earlier today and the starter appears to be stuck. Any
tips short of removing the entire thing?

'69 AT 400

David Booker
Atlanta

'69 442 Conv (w/w/w 400 AT mint)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 13:08:46 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!

> Until a woman(no disrespect to women) driving a rice-burner (all
> the disrespect to rice-burners)

Why? Imagine the mess you'd be in if you'd hit an Oldsmobile.

> How will they be able to estimate the damage?? I do not want money,
> I want my Bubba fixed..

They'll itemize the parts needing replacement. They may get quotes
on the value of those parts from on-line services or junkyards.
They'll guesstimate the value of the car from photo classified mags
and on-line records of recent sales of similar cars in the area.
(Note: Pay attention to the years of cars listed there; they tend
to not notice the difference between one year and another and whether
it was a major design change; e.g. 1967 Cutlass to 1968 Cutlass)

I'm pretty certain their initial offer will be to total your car, and
give you a check in exchange for signing over the car to them. Don't
be lowballed like that. Assuming you're not at fault (and even if you
are), your insurance agent should go to bat for you with the other
company if you're getting stonewalled.

You're under no obligation to accept their repair offers, but you may
be asked to substantiate the value of your car and why its value is
more than it would cost to repair it, so do your own research into
how much similar cars are being sold for ("similar" meaning condition
similar to yours, not just make and model). Keep in mind here that
even though the car is physically not totalled, it still could be
totalled _financially_. Old cars under standard insurance policies
are where the rules of the game tend to get screwy: they're not
going to pay more than the car is worth to repair it, and technically
an old car is not worth very much in their eyes. It's up to you to
prove otherwise.

Finally, be civil to the claims adjusters. They spend most of their
days looking at banged-up Corsicas and Tauruses and shoving the data
through computerized listings of Taiwanese replacement fenders, so
it's going to take a little extra effort on their part to deal with
this kind of thing; no point in making enemies of them as well. Good
luck and hang in there.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 16:12:31 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: W-30 Emblem Location

> Does someone have the EXACT factory location for the W-30 fender emblem on
> a 72 442? I need to know how many inches underneath the 4-4-2 emblem is it.
> Also how it should be centered in relation to the 4-4-2 emblem.

As in the rent-a-car commercial..."not exactly".  However, if the PAINT
stripe is on correctly, then it will be centered up and down in the fat
stripe, as well as being centered side to side under the 442 emblem.

The factory has a "blueprint" for the stamping of the holes, but I don't
have this, or know of anyone that does.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 13:24:31 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: '84 Cutlass Supreme Charging/Electrical Problems

I just got this from Luis Chevere, who used to be on the Olds List
but isn't any more.

I'm kind of stumped on this. Here's his description:

> Hello,
> This is Luis again, remember I have an 84 Cutlass Supreme. Well, the
> problem is this.  While I am at a traffic light or stop sign and my
> car is on and I have my foot on the brakes, all of my lights and
> stereo dim.  I have already replaced my alternator. The problem
> still continued, then I took it to Western Auto to test the battery,
> and alternator and both were giving good voltage. I know that there
> might be a certain part that is not built into the alternator that
> might be bad.  What is it called, where is it located, and is it
> easy to install.

I asked him if the problem started suddenly or developed over time:

> The problem occured slowly.  It occurs even when I don't have
> the radio, windshield wippers, or heater going.  The battery light
> turns on when I am idle.  When I said the lights dim I mean really
> dim to the point that the car will cut off if I don't press the gas
> while I have the brake down.

All I can think of is bad cables/grounds, or a bad alternator,
except that he says he had it tested already.

If you can help, please contact him directly at lchevere@hotmail.com.
Depending on what kind of reader you have, you might be able to just
click on this as well: mailto:lchevere@hotmail.com

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 16:30:48 -0500 (EST)
From: OLDS72W30@webtv.net (Todd Thomas)
Subject: Re: W-30 Emblem Location

- --WebTV-Mail-2096858244-339
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
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Peter,
I measured the emblems on mine and heres what I came up with. From the
back edge of the fender to the edge of the w30 it is four and one eight
inches,from the bottom of the 4 to the top of the W is one and a half
inches. I hope this helps.
Todd T


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From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: W-30 Emblem Location
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 12:49:03 -0600
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Does someone have the EXACT factory location for the W-30 fender emblem on
a 72 442? I need to know how many inches underneath the 4-4-2 emblem is it.
Also how it should be centered in relation to the 4-4-2 emblem.

Pettrix@prodigy.net


- --WebTV-Mail-2096858244-339--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 16:19:29 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: which vacuum source for dist.?

Gregory Zimmerman wrote:

> Can anyone tell me which source of vacuum should be used for the
> distributor and why?  Ported or manifold.

        Ported (also called timed vacuum) should be used for the
distributor advance.  The reason is if manifold vacuum is used the vacuum
advance unit will operate when the car is simply idling. By using the
timed vacuum port, the vacuum advance unit will only operate after the
throttle is opened to a certain, specified point.
- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 15:30:42 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: what sealant for tranny pan?

do not use the black stuff get a gasket from ATP (automatic transmission
parts) they have a composition gasket that will not leak if installed
correctly (ie no sealer) (at all) also is helping hand it holds 4 bolts in
place so you can have them ready to go when needed a great help when working
under a car good luck and have fun...KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: what sealant for tranny pan?


>
>Hi Greg,
> are you sure it's the pan leaking?  A leak around the input
>shaft will cause fluid to drip out of the convertor cover
>where it's spread all over the bottom of the tranny.  I have
>seldom seen tranny pans leak.
>
> GM makes a black silicon sealant that you can use to
>eliminate the leak but beware, it is very difficult to get
>the pan off again.  This is the stuff that the shop used on
>my tranny after it was rebuilt and I almost wrecked the case
>using a hammer and a putty knife to remove the pan.
>
>Gregory Zimmerman wrote:
>>
>> What's the best sealant to use on the tranny oil pan gasket?  I've
>> been through two gaskets (Fram) with ultra blue and it still leaks.<snip>
>
>--
>
>Cliff Simpson
>csimpson@acs.ucalgary.ca
>'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 15:35:12 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: Stuck starter

define stuck if you mean locked into the flywheel then stick about a .010"
shim between the starter and block this should help out...KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: David Booker <dbooker@mindspring.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 3:09 PM
Subject: Stuck starter


>Went to start up earlier today and the starter appears to be stuck. Any
>tips short of removing the entire thing?
>
>'69 AT 400
>
>David Booker
>Atlanta
>
>'69 442 Conv (w/w/w 400 AT mint)
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 16:44:47 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: which vacuum source for dist.?

> Can anyone tell me which source of vacuum should be used for the
> distributor and why?  Ported or manifold.  I can't find  a definite
> answer from anyone.

As Ross Perot would say (being election day and all):  "Ok, here's the
deal...."

What you want is ported vacuum on the street.

Manifold vacuum- varies widely with throttle position.  Say if you part
throttle the pedal on acceleration, what happens?  Instant big area
vacuum drop in that area of the manifold plenum.  Canister spring
returns timing to base + any mechanical advance.  Distributor canister
"retards" timing momentarily until vacuum restored.  Plus, full manifold
vacuum will advance the timing ALL the way when vacuum is present.  Does
this sound like what you need?  To eliminate the need for the can, you
could just jack the base timing up about 14 degrees to get the same
effects.  Actually better, since it wouldn't back off under
acceleration.  However starting would be a pain.

Ported vacuum.  ABOVE throttle plates.  During idle, very little or no
vacuum is felt at the port.  Engine is at lower speed, thus not needing
the lead in the spark.  Canister spring and flyweight springs in
distributor keeps it at base timing.  As the throttle plates are open,
air flow past the vacuum port in the venturi is enough to draw vacuum to
override canister spring, advancing timing automatically and gradually
as rpm increases.  The airflow through the carb venturis will remain
somewhat higher than manifold vacuum during the moment of initial
acceleration.  Thus, mimimal effect to vacuum at the port is felt,
versus inside the manifold plenum.  Results in a smoother response for
the vacuum advance.

If you don't believe me, then try this.  You will need a vacuum gage.
Hook it up to a manifold port.  Run the engine, and gently blip the
throttle.  What happens?  Big vacuum drop in manifold.  Now, hook it up
to the ported vacuum on the carb, and do the same test.  Notice that the
effects on vacuum are minimal compared to straight manifold vacuum.

It works.  Trust the manufacturer here.  Countless thousands of dollars,
that the buyer ultimately paid for, was spent on research for power and
economy gains.  I've run ported vacuum on every distributor of mine (if
applicable) and have suffered no ill effects.  Of course, it's your car,
so experiment as you wish.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 15:43:41 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Stuck starter

> Went to start up earlier today and the starter appears to be stuck. Any
> tips short of removing the entire thing?
> '69 AT 400
> David Booker
> Atlanta
>
> '69 442 Conv (w/w/w 400 AT mint)


Hi David,

what do you mean with stuck? Mechanically stuck or is it electrically
stuck so it does not stop to crank anymore?

Well for the first case (mechanically screwed up and in need for
replacement) get under your car and loosen the two mounting bolts...
disconnect the wiring and label the wires it so you can get it back on
the same way. Disconnect the wires _before_ you take the starter off
because the mother is heavy, especially when you are under the vehicle
all crooked. I have a 68 350 but I am pretty sure there can't be much
difference, list correct me if I am wrong...

In the second case the starter will pretty sure be alright and you have
an electrical problem further up in the line... ask the electrical
experts...

Good luck,
George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------


>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 16:54:04 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: which vacuum source for dist.?

Greg,
I've always been told that it should be hooked to the manifold, or the
non-ported carb, which is why you need to disconnect it before
checking/adjusting your initial timing.    I've tried mine both ways, and
when I hooked it up to the ported carb vacuum, it acted kinda-sorta like a
stall-converter, ya know since the timing jumped at a specific throttle
position and launched the car.  I also had a carb fire result that day while
I was playing so I just put everything back the way I originally had it.
But to answer your question, again, the advance should always get vacuum.
Why?  I don't know.  Probably so the advance curve is smooth, better for
things in general when things are smooth (except a big-cam caused rough
idle!).

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Gregory Zimmerman
Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 1:57 PM
To: Olds list
Subject: which vacuum source for dist.?


Can anyone tell me which source of vacuum should be used for the
distributor and why?  Ported or manifold.  I can't find  a definite
answer from anyone.

'71 350 with HEI dist., MSD-6AL and an Edelbrock Performer carb and
intake.

Right now it's on ported, and I'm wondering if there's any more power
to be made.  The engine will take more advance at WOT, but at light
acceleration on the highway it will ping if I advance the timing
anymore.

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 17:04:02 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Question about timing?

It was probably a way to get around emmissions crap. Put it up to 12 or
more!

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA

p.s. When you can't start your car after it's already warmed up, please
don't blame me!

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Matthew Bremmer
Sent: Monday, November 02, 1998 9:40 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Question about timing?


I have a question about timing.   Basically I bought a 1978 Cutlass
Supreme with what I believe is a 305 V8 in it.  I checked the timing and
it set to 0 degrees.  My service manual for 1978 Oldsmobiles says it
should be set to 4 degrees.  I set it to 4 degrees.  Why would someone
retard the timing this much?  Could they do this to hide something wrong
with the engine?  What are your ideas?

Thanks,

Matt

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 17:04:00 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Stuck starter

Somtimes the starter gear doesn't pop back in the way it should.  A gentle
tap with a hammer near the gear should pop it back in.  If that's your
problem, that is...

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Buck County, PA

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of David Booker
Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 4:06 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Stuck starter


Went to start up earlier today and the starter appears to be stuck. Any
tips short of removing the entire thing?

'69 AT 400

David Booker
Atlanta

'69 442 Conv (w/w/w 400 AT mint)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 17:05:35 EST
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: power locks help

one day i walked out to my nice 82 cutlass supreme and got in and went to
unlock my passenger side door and when i pushed the lock switch it did not
work so i tried the other side and nothing the only thing i can hear is a
click when i push the button coming from either the passenger door or its on
the right side of glove box right around where the wires go from the dash into
the door so i pulled out the switches cleaned the contacts again put them back
in and checked all the fuses everything else on the car works does anyone have
any ideas             TIA Rich

82,85 cutlass supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 17:05:59 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: Looking for Microsoft Outlook assistance

Hi list, sorry to clutter y'all up, but I'm looking for someone who could
answer a few question I have about Outlook for anyone using it.  Any help
would be great.  All further posts shall be private.  Thanks,

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 17:09:27 -0500
From: "Steve C" <cutlass@citlink.net>
Subject: Re: what sealant for tranny pan?

If you are using a rubber gasket you will not need sealent. Remeber not to
overtighten the bolts, this is probably the cause of your leak they should
only be snug . If you are using a cork gasket then I would use Ultra Copper
sealent , it is much bettet than the blue. Hope this helps
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gregory Zimmerman <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
To: Olds list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 11:35 AM
Subject: what sealant for tranny pan?


>What's the best sealant to use on the tranny oil pan gasket?  I've
>been through two gaskets (Fram) with ultra blue and it still leaks.  I
>got a new pan (TH-350) 'cause the old one is dented a little bit, and
>I'm going to do it a third time to try and stop the leak.  Is ultra
>blue good or should I use something else?
>
>thanks,
>greg
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 17:35:53 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!

> How will they be able to estimate the damage?? I do not want money,
> I want my Bubba fixed..

<snip Andy Green's excellent advice>
____________

A couple of other points.

First, as Andy said, do your research into value.  Use Hemmings ads,
Internet ads, auction prices, JWO ads, etc.  Be sure to document condition
of the cars in those ads.

Second, if the insurance company is intent on totaling the car, inquire if
they have the option for you to buy the car back for salvage value.  This
way you get the car and the cash to get it fixed.  Unfortunately, since the
car will have been totaled, you will likely have some sort of indication on
your title that the car has been salvaged or reconstructed.  You will
likely also need to get some sort of safety inspection following the
repair.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 15:03:33 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!

> Second, if the insurance company is intent on totaling the car,
> inquire if they have the option for you to buy the car back for
> salvage value.  This way you get the car and the cash to get it
> fixed.  Unfortunately, since the car will have been totaled, you
> will likely have some sort of indication on your title that the
> car has been salvaged or reconstructed.

Agreed; this part concerns me. The goal here is to get the most
amount of money out of them as possible without having them ask
for the title in exchange: that's when it goes from being a simple
settlement for the repair bill, which you want, to a total-loss
settlement, which you don't.

We can't tell from here how close a call it's going to be, but as
long as you have some evidence in the form of classified ads or
sales records or anything else to prove the value of your car, the
less likely they are to put up a fight if it's kind of a borderline
call otherwise. Their goal is to get you off the books, not get
sucked into a long drawn-out dispute. You're dealing with accountants,
not car lovers; keep that in mind when gathering your receipts and
car-for-sale listings.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 18:07:57 -0500
From: rocco0@home.com
Subject: Re: power locks help

Hello it Rocco Vita
you need to replace your power lock relay this part is located on the
passenger side foot well  under your glover box. write back if you need
more help

Rocco R. Vita
85, Supreme Sport Coupe

RICH6986@aol.com wrote:
>
> one day i walked out to my nice 82 cutlass supreme and got in and went to
> unlock my passenger side door and when i pushed the lock switch it did not
> work so i tried the other side and nothing the only thing i can hear is a
> click when i push the button coming from either the passenger door or its on
> the right side of glove box right around where the wires go from the dash
into
> the door so i pulled out the switches cleaned the contacts again put them
back
> in and checked all the fuses everything else on the car works does anyone
have
> any ideas             TIA               Rich
>
> 82,85 cutlass supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 16:18:47 -0700
From: "Fred Orcutt" <f_m_o@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!

Having practiced law for many years before retiring, I can tell you right
off the bat that Andy is absolutely correct in his assessment of the
insurance company's treatment of your loss.

However, keep in mind that you are free to refuse any offer you feel is
insufficient, and ultimately have the right to bring the matter before a
jury.  The standard insurance company argument is that they can't pay more
for repairs than a car is worth, but keep this in mind:

In dealing with the "other guy's" carrier, you have no contract with them
which limits your recovery under any policy.  To the contrary, you have a
valid claim for the total of your losses, provided they are true and
reasonable.  You are free to hold out and even go to trial over the issue of
total repair cost vs. so-called fair market value.  Insurance companies
often don't fare well in front of juries attempting to make folks like you
look bad for simply asking for the real cost of bringing your car back to
the condition it was in prior to the company's client's negligence.  Also
consider the legal costs which the company faces in even attempting to hold
down its liability to you. This is why they push so hard to get you to take
what they want to give.  It is not uncommon for those who stick to their
rights, especially when the other side is clearly in the wrong, to get what
they ask for in trial, provided they can financially hold out that long.  If
you are in a position to trench in and liability is the other guy's, you may
want to think about standing tough until you can get a good handle on your
possibilities.

Best of luck to you.
- -----Original Message-----
|I'm pretty certain their initial offer will be to total your car, and
|give you a check in exchange for signing over the car to them. Don't
|be lowballed like that. Assuming you're not at fault (and even if you
|are), your insurance agent should go to bat for you with the other
|company if you're getting stonewalled.
|
|You're under no obligation to accept their repair offers, but you may
|be asked to substantiate the value of your car and why its value is
|more than it would cost to repair it, so do your own research into
|how much similar cars are being sold for ("similar" meaning condition
|similar to yours, not just make and model). Keep in mind here that
|even though the car is physically not totalled, it still could be
|totalled _financially_. Old cars under standard insurance policies
|are where the rules of the game tend to get screwy: they're not
|going to pay more than the car is worth to repair it, and technically
|an old car is not worth very much in their eyes. It's up to you to
|prove otherwise.
|
|-- Andy
|
|______________________________________________________
|Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 17:54:04 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Holley Projection

>>Do you still have it?  Want to sell it?  How much?
>>
>>Jim Brady
>
>No i am afraid that i dont. The car burned up when i hit a golf.
>sorry. (I still think that its to small for a 455. at least with the
originale injectors)


Was this the ProJection 2 or 4?  If it had just two injectors then it was
intended just for small blocks up to 400 hp and 400 cid.  The 4 injector
one like I had was supposed to be the one for big blocks up to something
like 600 hp.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 18:55:27 EST
From: TheBlue67@aol.com
Subject: Re: Interior? Color?

In a message dated 98-11-02 22:14:20 EST, you write:

<< My car is supposed to be saddle.  But it looks a
lot darker than the pictures I have seen of saddle.  What gives?  Is Saddle
light brown or Dark brown  Mine seems darker.
  >>

Saddle is a darker brown. the seats are dark as is the carpet but door pannels
and consles this color are a bit liter in color.

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 18:06:47 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 12-inch Converter & 2.41 gears

Igor,
Stall speed is not a finite thing.  You can put a 2000 stall converter in a
heavy (4500lb) car and it will act like a 1500 stall converter.  Put the
same
converter in a light car (2500lb) and it will act like a 2500 stall
converter.
Given that its in a relatively heavy 88 I doubt you'll have any trouble.
You'll
build up more heat but if its cold the case will dissipate more heat and
basically even things out.  Now, if the converter is loose enough that when
it's in drive the car doesn't creep forward then you might run into a
problem.  Since your cruising rpm wouldn't be high enough to fully spin up
the
converter it would be slipping a lot and really build up a lot of heat and
give
you fluctuating rpms.  If you have to keep your foot on the brake at
stoplights,
I would say your most likely ok.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>I currently have a 12-inch torque converter in my Th400 behind the 455 in
>the '81 Delta 88.  The current rear-end is a 3.23 posi.  I don't know what
>the converter stall is cause it spins the tires effortlessly under 2000,
but
>I believe that the stall is about 2200 on that one.  I have a original 2.41
>posi I took out of the car when I did the motor/trans swap and installed
the
>3.23 instead.  However, since winter is coming and it looks like I will
have
>to drive the 455 (and it gets cold and slippery here) and considering that
>my daily miles are about 45-55 I am screwed.  I need as much MPG as I can
>get (since I am a poor University Student).  I have heard (and makes sense)
>that if I put back my original 2.41 rear I would have the RPMs fluctuate
>cause the motor would be revving below stall speed even on high-way.
>Swapping back in the old rear would be a matter or 2-3 hours and can be
>easily reversed.  I would like to do this for winter cause it would help me
>lots.  Can I do it?  Should I do it?  Will it destroy the trans or anything
>else?  Not to mention that I would like to try the top end with the 2.41s.
>It is a bottom end cam but the most I had it at in top gear is 4500 and was
>still puling.  With 2.41s, I figure about 140 MPH at 4200 RPM!  Now that is
>something.  Thanks.
>
>Igor Todorovic

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 17:18:05 -0700
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: 69 H/O paint job on Convert?

Who is it that owns the '69 Convert with the H/O paint job?  George? Joe?
Greg? I need to ask you a few questions...

Thanks,
Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 19:42:10 -0500
From: Kyle Roe <karoe@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: Gear Ratios

<snip>
R2 is open, R3 is anit-spin.
SC is 3:08 open.  TO looks like 3:91. 3:23 anti spin looks like SF. Perhaps
someone with a real '72 chassis manual could clean up this post for us.
Kyle.
> According to my Cars & Parts 442 book:
>
> Code                    Ratio                   Anti-spin
> R2                      2.56                    X
> R3                      2.56
> SA                      2.73
> SB                      2.73                    X
> SD                      3.08                    X
> SE                      3.42
> SH                      3.42                    X
> SR                      3.23
> SS                      3.23                    X
> TM                      3.42                    X
> TO                      3.73                    X

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 18:52:54 -0800
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: 69 H/O paint job on Convert?

>Who is it that owns the '69 Convert with the H/O paint job?  George? Joe?
>Greg? I need to ask you a few questions...
>
>Thanks,
>Blaine

It's probably me. At least it's white with gold stripes.
See it at the URL below.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 16:53:08 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: which vacuum source for dist.?

At 01:57 PM 11/3/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Can anyone tell me which source of vacuum should be used for the
>distributor and why?  Ported or manifold.  I can't find  a definite
>answer from anyone.
>

Ported.
why: if you run manifold vacuum, you will get full advance at idle.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 18:54:36 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: what sealant for tranny pan?

When I first started working as a mechanic one of the "golden rules" that
I was taught in my shop was to never go near an AT with any kind of sealer.
"Why?" I asked.  "Because if you did everything right, the way I taught you,
you don't need it.  And if a piece of that stuff comes off there are a lot
of
little passages to clog and then we gotta pay to rebuild the thing!"  So
when
it comes to things like trans pans and valve covers all I use is the cork
gasket
and a couple of dabs of 3M weatherstrip adhesive (gorrilla snot) to glue to
gasket to the pan so it doesn't slip out of position.  The other things to
make
sure of is that the rails on the pan are flat and not bowed around the bolt
holes from being overtightened.  Sit the pan on a flat table and the rails
should
lay flush all the way around.  If not you can usually straighten them out
with some
light taps from a hammer and dolly.  The last thing is to make sure that
everything is really clean.  I use a little brake cleaner to clean the pan
rails and
trans case after running a scraper over the case.  The nice thing about
brake
cleaner is it dries quick and doesn't leave any residue (I use it to clean
just
about everything metal).

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>If you are using a rubber gasket you will not need sealent. Remeber not to
>overtighten the bolts, this is probably the cause of your leak they should
>only be snug . If you are using a cork gasket then I would use Ultra Copper
>sealent , it is much bettet than the blue. Hope this helps
>
>>What's the best sealant to use on the tranny oil pan gasket?  I've
>>been through two gaskets (Fram) with ultra blue and it still leaks.  I
>>got a new pan (TH-350) 'cause the old one is dented a little bit, and
>>I'm going to do it a third time to try and stop the leak.  Is ultra
>>blue good or should I use something else?
>>
>>thanks,
>>greg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 20:03:29 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: Horn Button

Doug,

Try The Parts Place (Chicago) at 1-800-442-0411 or PPLACE9594@AOL.COM.

Scott

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 20:08:03 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: Interior? Color?

Doug,

Have seen this question before and have taken note as I'm considering the same
project for my 71 442.  The consensus on the list seems to be to go with
YearOne for quality, but The Parts Place also seems to have a real good
selection with some colors that YearOne doesn't advertise. I don't know how
many different _manufacturers_ there would be for this stuff, but there are
plenty of distributors.  I think Parts might send you a sample but don't know
if Year would. Give em a call.  Can't handle your saddle question...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 20:12:09 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: buying car

i found a car i'm probably going to buy.  it's a 1970 442 w/ram air, spoiler,
ss 2's, and 4.11 rear end.  the guy is asking 2650 but he said he would take
2100 cash.  i'll have to let you guys know this weekend if i do buy it.  hey
if i'm lucky, it might be a 4 speed.  the ad doesn't say and i forgot to ask
him.  oh well.

mikeytvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 20:25:46 EST
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: november jwo

anyone get the nov jwo yet>>>>>

i'm 1st class it's late usually here by the 30th or the 2nd


olds guy ga

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 19:26:30 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: which vacuum source for dist.?

As for ported vs manifold, definately go with ported.  The whole
thing about vacuum advance is drivability and fuel economy and it
doesn't hurt performance so let it be.  Where you will gain more
performance is by recurving your distributor.  Most people don't
really understand what "curving" a dist is all about but here it is in
a nutshell.

You have an "initial" timing setting for idle and as the rpm's raise the
wieghts inside the dist overcome the force of the springs holding them
together due to centrifugal force.  As these wieghts extent outward
the timing advances until they hit thier stops and this is your "total"
timing.  Between your initial and total settings you have your curve or
what amount of timing you have at a certain rpm.  If you plotted this on
a graph it would look like a curve that starts adding just a little advance
at first and more towards the total end.  You need an adjustable timing
light to really play with it or a degreed balancer so you can watch the
curve happen as you raise the rpm.  By swapping in lighter or heavier
wieghts and stronger and weaker springs you can manipulate this curve
in several different ways but it is sort of a black art and takes a bit of
talent to get the most out of it.

You can also get adjustable vacuum advance units that will let you adjust
how much advance they are capable of adding into this equation.  Since
you say that during light acceleration on the highway you get pinging but
not at WOT the curve and the vacuum advance don't match up.  You want
to shoot for around 32 degrees total timing and around 7-10 initial but it
kind of depends on what your particular motor can handle on pump gas.
To verify that the vacuum advance is causing the ping disconnect it and
plug the vacuum line then try to get it to ping on the highway.  If it
doesn't
do it fine, but if it still does it I would gravitate towards thinking that
it is
pinging some at WOT but you may not be able to hear it due to other
noises (like a loud exhaust).  Hope this helps.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme
>Can anyone tell me which source of vacuum should be used for the
>distributor and why?  Ported or manifold.  I can't find  a definite
>answer from anyone.
>
>'71 350 with HEI dist., MSD-6AL and an Edelbrock Performer carb and
>intake.
>
>Right now it's on ported, and I'm wondering if there's any more power
>to be made.  The engine will take more advance at WOT, but at light
>acceleration on the highway it will ping if I advance the timing
>anymore.
>
>-greg
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 20:30:49 EST
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: lost web site

anyone know the address for old car web????
has all types of  cARS parts ect..

olds guy...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 19:47:30 -0800
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: which vacuum source for dist.?

>>Can anyone tell me which source of vacuum should be used for the
>>distributor and why?  Ported or manifold.  I can't find  a definite
>>answer from anyone.
>>

>Ported.
>why: if you run manifold vacuum, you will get full advance at idle.

If you have a long duration camshaft, you might have to run full manifold
vacuum according to the Edelbrock manual for their RPM carbs.
The url for their online manual is:
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/eps_sect2.html#ref
They don't tell you what is considered "long duration" though.
The installation instructions that came with my carb, very specifically
stated to use the full manifold vacuum port on the carb if the vehicle did
not have EGR. For EGR equipped cars, they specified the ported vacuum port
on the carb.
I followed the instructions and used the manifold vacuum port and the car
runs fine. I'm running about 36 degrees of total vacuum (set with the
advance disconnected) and I did recurve the distributor using an adjustable
timing light. I also didn't worry too much about inital advance and
calibrated for total advance.
When I get back to Indiana in a couple of weeks, I think I'll try the ported
vacuum to see if it makes a difference; after I install the new waterpump
and bigger radiator.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 17:51:18 PST
From: "Peter Vollemans" <rocket403@hotmail.com>
Subject: Performer RPM

Does anybody use Edelbrock's Performer RPM parts on a small block?  I am
specifically interested in using the RPM intake with the RPM aluminum
heads?  Anybody have this combo?  I would like to hear of your
experiences with these parts.





Peter Vollemans
86 Cutlass Supreme 307/200-R4 (soon to be 409)


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 20:20:46 -0800
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Performer RPM

>Does anybody use Edelbrock's Performer RPM parts on a small block?  I am
>specifically interested in using the RPM intake with the RPM aluminum
>heads?  Anybody have this combo?  I would like to hear of your
>experiences with these parts.


Peter,
Sorry to reply to the List, but you didn't leave an email address.
REMINDER to List, If you create a sig file, Please include an email address.
I'm using the Edelbrock RPM cam, intake, 750 cfm carb and the Timing gear on
my 69 350.
I'm pretty happy with it. If your looking for low end torque though, you'd
be better of with the Performer package. The car with the RPM package still
comes off the line decently, but not great, (haven't had it at the track
yet), and it really pulls strong to higher than I want to rev it. It has
very good throttle response. I have 3:23 rear gears and a stock converter.
My future project is a built 2004r with a 2000-2200 RPM stall convertor. I
also want to go with 3:91 gears.
You will also need an adjustable valve train since the cam lift is .520".
One more thing. It took a lot messing with metering rods, springs, carb
adjustments and recurve springs and weights to get it running where I wanted
it. There is more info on my Web page. Hope this helps.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 21:39:19 EST
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: Rims f/s? or trade

       I have 14 Olds rims. Two complete set sets off an 82 Cutlass Supreme (
14 x 8). They have the 5 center insert rings and the outer trim rings. some of
the trim rings have curb scuffs on them. The few center caps i do have, i am
not sure if they are from the 82 car. Then i have just 2 14 inch rims from a
Supreme but not sure on the year.  Then i also have just 4 non-matching
"orphan" rims for Olds.  I would like to get a rim, 15 inch crosslace ( or i
think they are also called honey comb) for my 90 Cutlass Supreme. I can get a
reconditoned rim locally ( Cleveland, Oh) for $185.  I'll have more of a
description on the rims and maybe some cast numbers? by Friday. Thanks for
reading this.       P.S...what is a set of four g-body rims worth, i would
really just like to get the rim i need.........SCOTT     e-mail at
OLDS44272@AOL.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 20:45:31 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Performer RPM

>
>Peter,
>Sorry to reply to the List, but you didn't leave an email address.
>REMINDER to List, If you create a sig file, Please include an email
address.


But Mick, what about all the other people that might have the same question?
Agreed that there's a lot of volume on the list and it takes a while to go
through
but a lot of people have basically the same questions.  They can all be
answered at the same time only if you respond to the list.  One question
though.
Why do you say you need an adjustable valvetrain for .520" lift?  I ran a
RPM on
my old car with a .560" lift cam and stock rockers and pushrods with no
problem.
It took a little bit of figuring to get the right geometry for lifter
preload but didn't
have any problems after the motor was together.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 21:08:37 -0800
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Performer RPM

>But Mick, what about all the other people that might have the same
question?
>Agreed that there's a lot of volume on the list and it takes a while to go
>through
>but a lot of people have basically the same questions.  They can all be
>answered at the same time only if you respond to the list.  One question
>though.
>Why do you say you need an adjustable valvetrain for .520" lift?  I ran a
>RPM on
>my old car with a .560" lift cam and stock rockers and pushrods with no
>problem.
>It took a little bit of figuring to get the right geometry for lifter
>preload but didn't
>have any problems after the motor was together.


Sorry Mike, you're right, that was a pretty general question.
As far as the adjustable valve train, I have heard others have run higher
than .500" lift with no problems, but both Mondello and Edelbrock insisted
that adjustables were required. Being a novice mechanic, I took the
conservative route. Edelbrock also requires that their valve springs and
locks are used or they won't warrant the cam. Their springs are designed for
the majority of heads (70 and up), with my #5 heads, I had to have the
spring pockets machined .09" deeper in order to get the correct installed
height. Apparently the #5 an earlier heads have shallow pockets. Edelbrock
doesn't tell you that and if it hadn't been for the FAQ, I wouldn't have
checked.
I also know that the stock pedestals can be machined or shimmed for valve
lash adjustments.
Hope this helps.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 22:15:51 EST
From: DKlauber@aol.com
Subject: Re: W-30 Emblem Location

I've got a manual 1970-72 W-30 stripes, sheet metal clearances, and spoiler
mounting info that I could fax you if you would like.
David OCA #30416
1970 442 W-30 Conv

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 22:21:29 EST
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: 403 vs 307 HO

Got my 86 442 home from MI the other day.  My question is, what's the dif
between an 86 180 HP 307 vs a 79 185 HP 403?  I would think that more could be
done w/an additional 96 cubic inches right?  Nothing radical, my 403 has an
aftermarket alum intake w/"4" heads.   Any suggestions??.  Just looking for a
nice healthy street engine.  I have 2 sets of heads in my basement.  A pair of
"5a" heads, and whatever heads were stock on a 140 HP 86 307 Cutlass Salon.
Thanks,,,,

Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 22:40:46 +0000
From: "Joe Gerschutz" <gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu>
Subject: Re: best 3a reply

> lifters.  For about $600 your Olds will feel like it has twice as
> much power (cam&lifters $110, headers $110, heads + work on them
> $220, dual pipes and a cheap set of Turbo mufflers $110).  That is
> just my oppinion.  Others. Igor.

On the subject of dual exhaust, $110 for  a set plus mufflers?  Is
that buying a kit and then welding it yourself or having it installed
professionally?  Do they have G-body Cutlass kits that require no
welding?  How much can I expect to pay for having it professionally
done?

>Yes.  I think that the easiest to find would be the 7a.  I have run
>into a few up here in Canada.  Next time I see them, I will get
>them.

I must have missed the beggining of this post, but does this say
that 7a heads are the best bet/easiest to find for a 350 with current
stock 3a heads?

TIA
JOE

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 22:10:13 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!

> Second, if the insurance company is intent on totaling the car,
> inquire if they have the option for you to buy the car back for
> salvage value.  This way you get the car and the cash to get it
> fixed.  Unfortunately, since the car will have been totaled, you
> will likely have some sort of indication on your title that the
> car has been salvaged or reconstructed.

Agreed; this part concerns me.
__________

No argument from me.  I should have reiterated that I see this as a course
of last resort only, to save the car from being scrapped.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 22:09:19 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: 455 running very rich... Questions about adjusting Holley carb.

Don't mean to step on anyones toes here but here's how I've been taught to
adjust idle mixture screws, starting fom scratch.
With engine off, turn both sides (screws) all the way in (gently). Then back
them out 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns. Start the car. Go back and adjust one side at at
a time, slowly turn the screws in or out until you find the spot that gives you
the highest idle. Once you get one side done do the same on the other side. Go
from side to side a couple of times and just make sure you get it at the
highest idle after each adjustment. This will give you a leaner condition. You
may need to adjust your idle screw out a little to get your idle down where you
want it after these adjustments.
A problem you may have after leaning out your carb if you have a big cam and
stock convertor is when you put it in gear the engine will die. In this case
you would need to richen (turn out the screws) the circuit back up a little
until the car will run in gear.


C. Casteel wrote:

> Sorry to take up the bw. The recently rebuilt 455 is running very rich (no
> smoke, but very strong fumes)
>
> For reasons I won't go into here, the car has a new, out of the box, Holley
> 650 carb. with electric choke. The carb was put on without any adjustments.
> Since I'm mechanically handicapped and there's no paperwork on the carb
> still around, I need some pointers as to how to adjust the carb.
>
> Is there a web site that outlines this? Or can any list members offer some
> assistance?
>
> Please e-mail privately to earthsci@usit.net. Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 22:09:13 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: what sealant for tranny pan?

George wrote:

> What's the best sealant to use on the tranny oil pan gasket?  I've
> been through two gaskets (Fram) with ultra blue and it still leaks.  I
> got a new pan (TH-350) 'cause the old one is dented a little bit, and
> I'm going to do it a third time to try and stop the leak.  Is ultra
> blue good or should I use something else?
>

While you have the pan off check to make sure the bolt holes aren't bent up
from
tightening. Even if they seem ok take a ball peen hammer and pound them down
just
a little to help the pan seal better. Otherwise I agree with everybody else. At
the most maybe use a thin layer of gasket adhesive on the pan.Hammer trick also
works great for oil pan.
Don't over tighten.

Good Luck,
Shane

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 20:09:28 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Performer RPM

>Sorry to reply to the List, but you didn't leave an email address.
>REMINDER to List, If you create a sig file, Please include an email address.

Come on people, read your headers.  Even pine uses a "from" header and
the list leave it in.
the sender and reply-to headers are the list address.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 22:11:52 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: best 3a reply

I believe that all of Igor's prices are for pretty much just the parts, but
on the exhaust if you keep the one side you do have and just have the
muffler shop run a pipe for the other side then that would cut your bill
in half compared to running completely new exhaust.  We are discussing
the best/cheapest way to boost hp on a stock late 350 with low
compression.  The jist of it is to reduce the chamber size to boost your
CR, plus get better flowing heads.  They're not particularly easy to find
but out there if you look.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

> lifters.  For about $600 your Olds will feel like it has twice as
> much power (cam&lifters $110, headers $110, heads + work on them
> $220, dual pipes and a cheap set of Turbo mufflers $110).  That is
> just my oppinion.  Others. Igor.

On the subject of dual exhaust, $110 for  a set plus mufflers?  Is
that buying a kit and then welding it yourself or having it installed
professionally?  Do they have G-body Cutlass kits that require no
welding?  How much can I expect to pay for having it professionally
done?

I must have missed the beggining of this post, but does this say
that 7a heads are the best bet/easiest to find for a 350 with current
stock 3a heads?

TIA
JOE

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 22:58:30 -0600
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: Re: november jwo

Jeff wrote:


anyone get the nov jwo yet>>>>>

i'm 1st class it's late usually here by the 30th or the 2nd


I haven't received mine yet, either.  I faxed OCA at (517)
663-1820 and asked them to send me a replacement copy if they've already
mailed out the first class option last week.  It worked back in June, so
hopefully...

Later,

Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
Columbus, MS         1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html
http://www.442.com/newmantape.html


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 22:23:35 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: best 3a reply

As for the exhaust, this is what I did.  Installed my 455 and the exhaust
manifolds in my '81 Delta.  Then me and my girlfriends dad towed the car to
the muffler shop.  I then had a set of front pipes bent and installed on the
car (since I changed the complete drivetrain on that car, I notched the
trans. crossmember myself).  Including the balancer tube, it cost me about
$170 Canadian (~$100 US).  If you look at it, that is not much pipe/work.  I
then towed the car back home, bought a set of cheap Turbo mufflers and
installed them.  I installed a set of $4 turndown pipes (like little tips).
They save BIG bucks on tail-pipes and help flow, of course at the expense of
noise.

As for the rest of the stuff, prices are parts only.  I assume that you will
do all the work yourself.  This saves tons of money but costs you time.  The
7a heads are all I have seen around that would help your CR. problems.
Maybe a set of #5 would be better, but might be more difficult/expensive to
obtain.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/propane/200-4r)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (367/727/4.10s)

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1586
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