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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1522


oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, October 1 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1522



Re: Speakin' of pinging...
Re: 1980? Cutlass Supreme
Re: 1980? Cutlass Supreme
list cars
307 exhaust manifold leak
Re: Octane addatives
RE: Speakin' of pinging...
Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)
F*rd solenoid trick - works for us!
Re: 1980? Cutlass Supreme
Re: F*rd  -ain't so hot!
Sorry I didn't reply./JUNKYARD
Re: Hallmark '69 H/O Ornaments
MCC Autofest Oct 2-4
restoring SSI
W-31 motor rebuild
Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)
Re: W-31 motor rebuild
Re: More Edelbrock RPM
Re: Tweeter Dome Location??
Re: Sorry I didn't reply./JUNKYARD
Re: F*rd solenoid trick -ain't mine
Re: 87 442 rarity.
Re: 69 442 grilles
Re: ignition advance: more info out there?
Need elec. h#lp on 1982 Olds
Tail Lens theory, fact or fiction.
TAKE ME OFF THE LIST
Re: Trials of a List Administrator (non-Olds)
Re: Tweeter Dome Location??
Re: 1980? Cutlass Supreme
Re: Tweeter Dome Location??
Re: Aftermarket Radio for 72
Olds wheel balancing
Fwd: Re:  Re:  junkyard
Fwd: Re:  junkyard
Re: Tweeter Dome Location??
IF I DON'T GET SOME H*LP, MY CAR IS GOING TO DIE (long, PLEASE read!)
Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)
Re: RT was: Oh, by the way...
UNBOUNCE: 307 exhaust manifold leak
F*rd solenoid trick - my windy explanation
1985 442
funny sound
Re: funny sound
Re: funny sound
Re: funny sound
RE: IF I DON'T GET SOME H*LP, MY CAR IS GOING TO DIE !

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 22:17:15 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Speakin' of pinging...

In a message dated 9/30/98
 8:<BR34:<BR49 PM Central Daylight Tim, jadcock@vt.edu writes:

> I have no
>  timing light, so this is very guess-guess.

Jason,

I think they still sell those things :-)

Timing is one item that shouldn't be guessy-guessy. Timing lights are *so*
cheap, why risk your entire engine over less than the cost of a tank of gas?

Remember that your distributor runs at half-engine-speed. If you want 36 deg.
advance, your dist must be set so that the points open 18 deg BTDC. It can be
done with a couple of alligator clips and a 12 V taillight bulb, but you'll
have to come up with a TDC finder. A 2" dia *circle* is about 6.3" in
circumference....so you'll see that 10 deg is *about* .170". So, within
better-than-guess accuracy, if you rotate about 5/16" on a 1" radius circle,
you'll be close to 36 deg. (18 x 2). BUT you've gotta have a starting point
that is TDC. On the other hand, if you just wanted to retard say 4 deg, then
move it backwards about 1/32" IMPORTANT NOTE: Don't forget that this
measurement is 1" out from the center of the shaft.

Better yet, don't guess. I see induction-type timing lights (not the best, but
better than killing an Olds before its time) at yard sales for under $5.

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 22:22:49 EDT
From: KASOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1980? Cutlass Supreme

I have an 80 Cutlass Supreme on my web page check it out.
http://members.aol.com/kasolds/mycars.htm.

Keith

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 22:26:26 EDT
From: KASOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1980? Cutlass Supreme

Somebody mentioned looking at the tail lights for the year.  I think (not
positive) the tail lights on 78-80 are all the same.  Usually the tail light
lens has the date of the first year that particular lens was made.  So even an
80 may say 78 on the light

Keith

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 22:43:49 -2800 (EDT)
From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: list cars

Numbers matching 70 CS Convertible
getting paint and interior soon

96 GMC Safari  "family and boat hauler"
90 Ch*vy celebrity station wagon  "given to me by grandpa"  Too bad it wasn't
an olds - Daily Driver

have owned a 70  S
86 442
88calais international series  "my first new car"
77 pontiac TA 4speed

Anyone interested in a complete 70 350  #6heads redone?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 22:41:08 EDT
From: GWright442@aol.com
Subject: 307 exhaust manifold leak

I just put a reman 307 engine in my 87 Cutlass.  It was an exact replacement
engine and it runs great with one exception; I can't get the exhaust manifolds
to stop leaking.  I know that there are two different sizes of gaskets (cast
vs steel manifolds) and I do have the correct ones on.  I used FelPro gaskets.
Is there a better gasket to try?  I really do not want to take the manifolds
apart from the cross member to surface them.  The design is kind of like a
header and I'm not certain they can be surfaced anyway.  I have had the car
running for I week and I don't want to drive it because the leak is so
annoying and I don't want to damage the engine.

Please Help

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 22:47:50 EDT
From: SHELTERMEN@aol.com
Subject: Re: Octane addatives

I used a product called Fuelon.  It claimed that you could pass any states
emissions test by using it as directed.  I  used it on a P*ntiac Grandville
convertible with a 455.  That thing would always fail NJ's tests.  Sure
enough, without making any other adjustments, I passed after using Fuelon.  I
don't think it did anything for performance but it certainly had an effect on
emissions.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 22:50:18 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: Speakin' of pinging...

On Wednesday, September 30, 1998 10:17 PM, SpeedCom@aol.com
[SMTP:SpeedCom@aol.com] wrote: > > Timing is one item that shouldn't be
guessy-guessy. Timing lights are *so* > cheap, why risk your entire engine over
less than the cost of a tank of gas?

Yes, I totally agree with you, but I want to get a really good one.  I'm going
to ask for a Sears Craftsman light for Christmas (since I can't afford to
"spontaneously" spend around $100).  You're right, though.  I was afraid that
the pinging would kill it before me messing with the timing would, but I guess
not...I can wait 'till Christmas...the pinging is not as severe during the
winter anyway.

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 22:48:39 -0400
From: Uncle Pete <pteubel@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)

At 09:17 PM 9/29/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I got to thinking.  I'm still probably going to find an original radio.  But,
>for now, I'm going to try to build up a real stereo.

Fix the mechanicals first, THEN worry about tunes.  A killer stereo won't
help you if you break down at the side of the road.  Attention to the
drivetrain and such WILL.

>Now here's my question.  Right now I'm doing a little body work while it's
>sitting in my garage, and I'm getting it painted next summer.

I hate doing bodywork.  No thank you.  Not for me.  I'd rather turn wrenchs
than sand panels.  But that's just me....

> Is all this
>money worth it? The car has 175,000 on it, and will need a new tranny and/or
>rear end soon.  I am ~planning~ to drop a 350 or 403 when the 307 goes,
but in
>reality, I don't know if it will ever happen.

The real question is.......Is the car worth it to **YOU**?  Only you can
answer that.  If you are attached to the car for whatever reason, sure its
worth it.  Is it just transportation for you and nothing else, then perhaps
not.  You're call.  I can only offer my experience (NOT opinion).

About 4 yrs ago, I bought an '82 98 ($2000).  Converted diesel (403), 80K,
excellent condition.  Some chrome pitting, a few scratches, interior
perfect, body perfectly straight.  Over the years, I've probably sank
another $4000 into it.  The list is lengthy, so I won't waste bandwidth
relaying it here.  It might be a shorter list of things I have *NOT*
replaced.  I've even swapped in a used 403 with 150K on it (the original
developed a bad rear main seal).  That used engine is STILL running strong
with NO problems 65K miles later.

Over the winter, I'm rebuilding the "original" 403 (with some mods, of
course).  Come springtime, the old gal goes in for a new paint job and
vinyl roof. I've been purchasing NEW chrome and brightwork over the past
year and by "paint-time", I'll have everything (and I do mean EVERYTHING)
for the exterior.  Once finished, it'll be a new car again.  I mean REALLY
new.  Once the engine start making funny noises, I'll replace that again
with my rebuilt one.

Is it worth it?  I can hear others on this list laughing very hard right
now.  Who would want to invest that kind of money in that car?  I mean,
that *IS* truly "your Father's 4-dr Oldsmobile?".  Well *I* would (will).
Its worth it to me.  I have 3 other antique cars in #2 condition ('66
Coronet 440, '73 Imperial, '63 Merc...all with less than 50K org miles) but
this Olds is my absolute favorite.  Daily driver for 3 seasons a year (no
winter's, thank you).  In fact, I've used it to tow my other cars on
occasion (I've installed a 10,000lb Class III hitch w/load equalizer).  As
long as the body holds up rust-wise, I'll continue to keep it up.  With no
winters, it should last a VERY long time.  So for me, if the body/frame is
perfect then the rest is trivial.

> I barely have the space, (but
>I'd have the space if I needed it), I wouldn't have ANY idea how to do it.
 Is
>dropping in a new engine practical?  Can it done by a rookie such as myself?
>:)  Or should I leave the car as-is and wait for a better car to come
along to
>spend my money on?

If its your only car, I'd suggest having the engine replaced
professionally.  You'll have it back in a few days guarenteed.  Plan on
around $2000 for a basic swap.  If you start changing things (like
350/403), that price will quickly climb.  If you can have someone
experienced help you, and have substitute transportation, go for it!  It
can be fun if you are not rushed.

FWIW, my mechanic now charges me $400 for a swap because I have the
replacement engine ready to go.  NOTHING has to come off the old engine to
get put on the replacement engine....NOTHING.  I do all that myself ahead
of time.  Its becomes strictly a R&R job.  After doing a half dozen engine
swaps in my life, I've come to the realization that removing something is
FAR easier than installing it.


Well, that's my $0.02 worth.....

Uncle Pete
'51 Olds 98 (multi-year frame-off resto)
'82 Olds 98
'86 Ciera (Wifey's car)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 22:53:44 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: F*rd solenoid trick - works for us!

Oldsmo-lovers and partners-in-crime:

Here's the lowdown on the F-word (NOT THAT F-WORD!) solenoid trick.  We use
this on all our race cars, and I installed one on the Starfire, but for
different reasons.  On the Starfire's engine (B-word V-6), the starter is in a
real PITA situation, and using the remote solenoid makes it easier to hook up
the starter (one wire that can be attached before the starter goes on, then
attached to the proper terminal on the remote solenoid later).

But on Grace and Elfie C.(Grace's predecessor), we used this because it does
take some of the load off the Delco solenoid.  It is still used, because it
does kick out the drive pinion that actually contacts the flywheel's or
flexplate's ring gear.  As a side benefit, now there is no continually "hot"
wire going down to the starter, with the potential to rub a hole in the
insulation and start a wiring fire.  I speak from experience here, once had a
68 Cutlass 'S' convertible that this happened to after a relatively mild
fender-bender moved the positive cable over and hit the hot exhaust manifold.
I've never actually measured the current draw of the starter system with and
without the external solenoid, but I have wired plenty of local race cars and
have never had one that wouldn't start every time with the external solenoid.

Just my $0.015 here, Take Care!
Ken Snyder
Owner/Operator, A/Q Wiring Service
Kansas City, Kansas
http://members.aol.com/aqwiring/index.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 22:56:28 EDT
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1980? Cutlass Supreme

In a message dated 9/30/98 11:16:54 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jtherndon@webtv.net writes:

<<
 Here's the VIN: 3M47FAD417000

 The manufacturer's sticker on the door says 10/79. Just curious what's
 under the hood.
  >>
Its a 1980 Cutlass Supreme Broughm 2 dr with a 260  V/8


Everett     OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 23:02:58 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: F*rd  -ain't so hot!

> Not so fast, Mike.  That's a Cobra Jet flapper door and vacuum actuator on
> your H/O air cleaner.


Ahem, it's a '69 Hurst/Olds flapper.  Ford must have stolen the idea....
It was, er, TESTED, yeah, that's right, TESTED for use on Fords first,
ya know, to make sure that it would do Ok on the Hurst.....Ok, Ok.*looks
around nervously*...shhhhh! Joe!  You're supposed to keep that quiet!
Don't tell anyone.  But, it does have a GM stock #.......

Seriously, it's true.  On the back of the bracket on the vacuum motor
there is an oval with "Fomoco" inside, and a date (month/year) stamp on
the nose.  Had an NOS one in a little box with a big blue oval on it as
well, so I took it out and put it in a GM box, just so I wouldn't have
to look at that oval... In my house, that symbol is like being a person
of the cloth and having the devil over to dinner.  :)

Much different than the 70-72 OAI vacuum motors.  Funny, it's a similar
setup on the Hurst SC/Rambler in 69 as well.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 23:49:23 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Sorry I didn't reply./JUNKYARD

If anyone has asked me questions specifically, please repost them.  For
some reason, ny email sent me about 200 messages from the past month that
have long been deleted, all intermingled with new mail.  Then the
computer froze up and I lost everything.  I know some people asked about
junkyards and all.

One piece of info: exit 40 off I 81 in Hazleton, PA.  8-4 on Sat and Sun.
 forget weekday hours at present time, but can find out if need be.

see ya!

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA
- -

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 21:41:30 -0400
From: "Chris Smetana" <chris@abcs.com>
Subject: Re: Hallmark '69 H/O Ornaments

>original retail. (First in the series, a '56 Vette currently at $200+)

!$@#!@#%!#$%@  Are you sh!ttin' me!!  My mom has been giving my brother and
myself one of these since Hallmark began with the series.  When I tell her
the Vette is worth $200+  she's going to !#$%@

Chris (alive and still lurking in digest mode) Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@onexinc.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 22:04:41 -0400
From: "Chris Smetana" <chris@abcs.com>
Subject: MCC Autofest Oct 2-4

The 2nd annual MCC Autofest in coming this weekend to Evansville, IN.  Last
year it was only one day and they had roughly 700 cars, this year it is
expanded to 3 days and I would guess they are expecting to have at least
double last years attendance.  I do know my 1969 W-31 will be making the
journey.  I will probably only be there on Sat though.
If anyone is interested in more details, check out
http://www.myclassiccar.com

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@onexinc.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 22:00:29 -0400
From: "Chris Smetana" <chris@abcs.com>
Subject: restoring SSI

Hi all,
Just curious as to how one would go about restoring the 14x6 all chrome
drum-only SSI wheels?  The set I have on the W-31 has chrome peeling and
the black paint is faded, I intend to keep them and wondered how to get
them looking show quality.  Can these be rechromed, kinda like bumpers or
what?  Thanks.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@onexinc.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 22:37:54 -0400
From: "Chris Smetana" <chris@abcs.com>
Subject: W-31 motor rebuild

Well, I've been trying to compile my list of items for the rebuild of my
numbers matching W-31 engine, which is planned for this spring.  Here's
what I have so far (advice, criticisms, recommendations, etc are all
welcome)
Michigan 77 bearings; ARP rod bolts and main studs; Cloyes true-roller
timing chain set with a cam button; std Melling oil pump with high-pressure
spring; TRW forged pistons 10.25:1; Milodon stainless steel valves 2"
intake 1.63" (or is it 1.64) exhaust; bronze valve guides; I'm looking at
the Supercars rocker arm kit since it fits under stock valve covers; W-31
cam and lifter kit; what am I forgetting... oil restrictors, fel-pro
gaskets, new GM head bolts, rebuilding of the original W-31 balancer;
rebuilding the 29255 q-jet (these are the numbers stamped on it and I'm
guessing it's a service replacement); windage tray; obvious balance of the
reciprocating assembly;  I forgot piston rings, suggestions anyone, file
fit total seal; chrome moly oil pump drive rod
All this along with the stock intake and exhaust manifolds.  I've also
found a place with a Sun distributor machine so I'll give them the
distributor to set up.  Neoprene rear main seal.  I've already had the JO
coded turbo 350 rebuilt with a hardened roller sprag and Trans-go shift kit
(I've got it to chirp tires into 3rd a few times, 2nd is no problem),
rebuilt stock torque convertor, 3:91 rear gears, 14x7 SSII with repro
G70x14 Goodyears and I'll probably put on a 2 1/2" mandrel exhaust system
when the motor goes in.  Gee, I think that's it.  So what does everyone
think?  What am I missing?  Are there any areas of concern?

Thanks for any input.

Chris (already spending his x-mas money) Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
work: csmetana@onexinc.com
home: chris@abcs.com

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 22:07:11 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)

Same with me.  The same people that laugh at you for fixing up that Regency
laugh at me for fixing my Delta.  Before I took it to get painted (and I
will post some pixies after it gets painted) it looked really rough.  One of
my friends was always looking at me like I am an idiot for fixing the Delta,
looking at his el-cheepo Altima that his dad bought for him as a much better
car.  (my car rides better, now handles better, is 5times faster, has
10times better passing power, will soon look better, is more reliable then
his).  BUT when the ugly Delta with faded paint, broken windshield, rust,
and general boat uncoolness lights up both BFGoodrich 255/60/15 tires and
then hooks and rockets off, you should see him shake his head.  Suddenly the
2.4L manual Altima looks like no more then a go cart to him.  HA HA.   Long
live the big olds.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/propane/th2004r)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)


- -----Original Message-----
From: Uncle Pete <pteubel@mediaone.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; JCRASH7@aol.com
<JCRASH7@aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 30, 1998 8:55 PM
Subject: Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)


>At 09:17 PM 9/29/98 -0400, you wrote:
>>I got to thinking.  I'm still probably going to find an original radio.
But,
>>for now, I'm going to try to build up a real stereo.
>
>Fix the mechanicals first, THEN worry about tunes.  A killer stereo won't
>help you if you break down at the side of the road.  Attention to the
>drivetrain and such WILL.
>
>>Now here's my question.  Right now I'm doing a little body work while it's
>>sitting in my garage, and I'm getting it painted next summer.
>
>I hate doing bodywork.  No thank you.  Not for me.  I'd rather turn wrenchs
>than sand panels.  But that's just me....
>
>> Is all this
>>money worth it? The car has 175,000 on it, and will need a new tranny
and/or
>>rear end soon.  I am ~planning~ to drop a 350 or 403 when the 307 goes,
>but in
>>reality, I don't know if it will ever happen.
>
>The real question is.......Is the car worth it to **YOU**?  Only you can
>answer that.  If you are attached to the car for whatever reason, sure its
>worth it.  Is it just transportation for you and nothing else, then perhaps
>not.  You're call.  I can only offer my experience (NOT opinion).
>
>About 4 yrs ago, I bought an '82 98 ($2000).  Converted diesel (403), 80K,
>excellent condition.  Some chrome pitting, a few scratches, interior
>perfect, body perfectly straight.  Over the years, I've probably sank
>another $4000 into it.  The list is lengthy, so I won't waste bandwidth
>relaying it here.  It might be a shorter list of things I have *NOT*
>replaced.  I've even swapped in a used 403 with 150K on it (the original
>developed a bad rear main seal).  That used engine is STILL running strong
>with NO problems 65K miles later.
>
>Over the winter, I'm rebuilding the "original" 403 (with some mods, of
>course).  Come springtime, the old gal goes in for a new paint job and
>vinyl roof. I've been purchasing NEW chrome and brightwork over the past
>year and by "paint-time", I'll have everything (and I do mean EVERYTHING)
>for the exterior.  Once finished, it'll be a new car again.  I mean REALLY
>new.  Once the engine start making funny noises, I'll replace that again
>with my rebuilt one.
>
>Is it worth it?  I can hear others on this list laughing very hard right
>now.  Who would want to invest that kind of money in that car?  I mean,
>that *IS* truly "your Father's 4-dr Oldsmobile?".  Well *I* would (will).
>Its worth it to me.  I have 3 other antique cars in #2 condition ('66
>Coronet 440, '73 Imperial, '63 Merc...all with less than 50K org miles) but
>this Olds is my absolute favorite.  Daily driver for 3 seasons a year (no
>winter's, thank you).  In fact, I've used it to tow my other cars on
>occasion (I've installed a 10,000lb Class III hitch w/load equalizer).  As
>long as the body holds up rust-wise, I'll continue to keep it up.  With no
>winters, it should last a VERY long time.  So for me, if the body/frame is
>perfect then the rest is trivial.
>
>> I barely have the space, (but
>>I'd have the space if I needed it), I wouldn't have ANY idea how to do it.
> Is
>>dropping in a new engine practical?  Can it done by a rookie such as
myself?
>>:)  Or should I leave the car as-is and wait for a better car to come
>along to
>>spend my money on?
>
>If its your only car, I'd suggest having the engine replaced
>professionally.  You'll have it back in a few days guarenteed.  Plan on
>around $2000 for a basic swap.  If you start changing things (like
>350/403), that price will quickly climb.  If you can have someone
>experienced help you, and have substitute transportation, go for it!  It
>can be fun if you are not rushed.
>
>FWIW, my mechanic now charges me $400 for a swap because I have the
>replacement engine ready to go.  NOTHING has to come off the old engine to
>get put on the replacement engine....NOTHING.  I do all that myself ahead
>of time.  Its becomes strictly a R&R job.  After doing a half dozen engine
>swaps in my life, I've come to the realization that removing something is
>FAR easier than installing it.
>
>
>Well, that's my $0.02 worth.....
>
>Uncle Pete
>'51 Olds 98 (multi-year frame-off resto)
>'82 Olds 98
>'86 Ciera (Wifey's car)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 00:09:16 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: W-31 motor rebuild

Chris,

Just make sure these are the 10.5 to 1 forged TRW's, I just came into
posession of a set of the 10.25 to 1's -- not bad, but not exactly what I
wanted.  The 10.5's (W-31) have no dish at all, an easy way to spot them.

Also, Dave Smith (Corona, CA (909) 371-7040) sells a "Street Rocker Kit" that
does what you want, contact Karen or Dave for more info.

Take Care, and Good Luck!
Ken Snyder (I've built some W-31 replica 350's in my time)
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 21:03:05 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: More Edelbrock RPM

give me the complete cam specs and bore and stroke and we will see....kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: crl6420@online.no <crl6420@online.no>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, September 30, 1998 2:14 PM
Subject: More Edelbrock RPM


>Anybody tried the complete package on a 403 ?
>and how will it do on the dyno. ?
>
>
>
>At 29 Sep 98, you wrote
>>I'm not gonna give you any heat, to the contrary...I
>>AGREE!!!! I have the complete RPM package on my
>>65 and it "dead" below about 3500 rpm.It screams
>>above that, but you just dont get above 3500rpm
>>very often when cruising to work and back. My car
>>has really takin' a hit in it's low end torque, now Im
>>looking at building a TH-350 with a 3000+ stall just
>>to get outta the hole (accelerate from dead stop).
>>
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 00:23:13 EDT
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tweeter Dome Location??

In a message dated 9/30/98 9:42:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jonparke@together.net writes:

<< Been following the various stereo threads and wondered if anybody has an
 opion as to the best location for tweeter domes.
  >>
i had some mounted at the hinges of my sunvisors aimed to the armrest for 2
years and if you drove for a while with the stereo somewhat loud, youd get a
headach.  now i have kickpanels and i have tweeters in them.  i dont get a
headach now.  i dont know what it is about having tweeters too close to your
ears, but its highly annoying no matter how much you turn them down.(seems
like)  id try mounting them as far foward as possible.  kickpanels with 6.5
mids and 1" tweets would be great.
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 00:19:50 -0400
From: Uncle Pete <pteubel@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Sorry I didn't reply./JUNKYARD

At 11:49 PM 9/30/98 -0400, you wrote:
>If anyone has asked me questions specifically, please repost them.  For
>some reason, ny email sent me about 200 messages from the past month that
>have long been deleted, all intermingled with new mail.  Then the
>computer froze up and I lost everything.  I know some people asked about
>junkyards and all.
>
>One piece of info: exit 40 off I 81 in Hazleton, PA.  8-4 on Sat and Sun.
> forget weekday hours at present time, but can find out if need be.

You must be talking about Harry's U-Pull-It.  Awesome yard!  5000+ cars!!
I take a road trip there from Mass about 4 times a year and spend at least
one whole day there each trip.

In July, I stripped EVERY piece of exterior brightwork from an '82 98.  I
mean everything! 40 pcs in all.  Plus interior plastic and more brightwork.
 Cost me $20 total for everything.  No 403's, though.....bummer.  I still
need a pair of UNCRACKED exhaust manifolds.

- - Uncle Pete
'51 98
'82 98 (w/403)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 21:26:33 -0700
From: Roger Schmidt <icebear@sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: F*rd solenoid trick -ain't mine

Hi Roger,

I know you reposted. And somebody else said that I've got no experience. All I
was saying was that your original
factory starter setup should work in any conditions if everything is in good
shape. The boys in Detroit know a thing
or two about building cars for our differing climates. Out of all the problems
that people have with starting their cars,
cold or hot, a whole lot of those problems are due to lack of maintenance. And 
I
never said that a slave solenoid
setup wouldn't work.

Roger Schmidt

roger hitson wrote:

> To Mike Robe or Roger Schmidt
>
> I claim no expertise here. Was simply reposting what seemed to be a thorough
> explanation. Credited original author.
>
> roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 00:30:36 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <jlabay@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: Re: 87 442 rarity.

Yeah I would have to say that my 80 Olds 442 with only 886 produced is sorta
rare :-)

Jason Labay



>> 1987 Olds. Cutlass 442. Black with maroon interior. Rare and beautiful!
>
>Question:  what makes it rare?  Production numbers of 4,208 isn't that
>rare.  Is it the color combination?  Come to think of it, I don't see

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 21:13:41 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: 69 442 grilles

hey greg my 442 is from fremont as well but the area under scrutiny is
deffinitely black on this one the car has never had any work done on it and
is completely unaltered could it have been black from the factory?
if so how can we find out for sure? ps this thing also has red wells you
might remember from a post a few months back.....kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, September 30, 1998 12:06 PM
Subject: Re: 69 442 grilles


>
>
>Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
>
>> As for my question on the color of the stone shield, I'm not talking
about
>> the hood tongue.  I'm refering to the horizontal metal shield that's
>> between the inboard ends of the grilles, behind the center of the bumper.
>> I got two responses, one said silver, one black.  Any other votes?
>
>Joe,
>I've noticed futher postings of some black, some silver.
>We've got three 69's here.  Both 4-4-2's are silver,
>(both are Fremont cars).  The Vista Cruiser's was silver.
>Now painted Nordic blue to match the car and grilles.
>Never seen one painted black from the factory.
>
>Greg Rollin
>Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
>http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
>E-mail: supercars@transport.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 21:33:44 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: ignition advance: more info out there?

well the ping and detonation are the same thing as stated by TSGT Arnold
SIR!  sorry reverted back to the days of being SRA Kroger
the message that I posted stated that the cause is a superheated spot in the
chamber or on the piston top the fact that the flame front begins before the
ign spark was I thought a given thus the PREfix this leads to the problem of
prevention ie to cool the chamber if you can afford aluminum heads then by
all means give a try but it will still ping I guarantee it if you set the
timing properly not necessarily to spec. but according to the book this is
to say that the spec is a guideline not a rule itis a starting point
to cool the air/fuel mixture could also help but the only real fix is to set
the timing properly but you must remove all sharp stuff in the chamber
and on the piston top the thing is to deny the heat anything to make into a
glow plug this effect can also lead to dieseling on hot days richer mixture
can also help but even the premium fuels on the market dont have enough
octane to do much good now that the issue is so clouded that noone can
figure out what I just said oh well............kk



>Kerry,
>No expert, thought pinging, (preignition) was caused by something igniting
>the fuel/air mixture before it's time, (hot piece of carbon, too hot of
>plug, rough spot in combustion chamber, low octane fuel, excessive heat in
>chamber, wrong spark advance or too much spark advance total). Piston is
>still on it's way up on compression stroke, way before the 36 to 40 degrees
>normally used in spark advance. This also usually occurs at lower engine
>speeds, for example, 30 mph in high gear, then nailing the throttle. Still
>a single flame front, just way too soon! Two flame fronts colliding is
>detonation, much more serious in breaking up parts, especially pistons
>tops, or alum heads. Good explanation but what you are calling preigntion,
>is detonation as per your example of the flame fronts colliding. Experts,
>am I wrong here?
>Lou Biggs
>
>----------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Sep 1998 17:40:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Need elec. h#lp on 1982 Olds

Anyone out there have a ~GM~ manual for an 82 Olds....I need some help
with wiring .....need to know some colors...of course they're
different on a 82 compared to my 84 and 85....can someone help please?
        TIA,
            John




==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 01:19:07 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Tail Lens theory, fact or fiction.

RGHaun@aol.com wrote:

> Look at tail light lens, year of car is there.

If this were true...

My 87 Cutlass (complete with Euro-Front Clip) would be identified as an
85, since that's the year the Tail lights were approved for use on that
car with that body style by the Gov't.

- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 01:25:46 -0400
From: Don Casteel <dcasteel@gcnet.net>
Subject: TAKE ME OFF THE LIST

Would you please take me off the list for awhile.  I won't be able to
check my mail for awhile and would appreciate it if you could take me
off the list Friday morning.  Thanks



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 01:30:45 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: Trials of a List Administrator (non-Olds)

Laughing My A** Off.

Kevin White

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 01:41:26 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: Tweeter Dome Location??

Jonathan Parke wrote:
>
> Been following the various stereo threads and wondered if anybody has an
> opion as to the best location for tweeter domes.
>
Mine are high up on the windshield pillars pointing inward towards each
other.....

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 01:41:19 EDT
From: MNManiac@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1980? Cutlass Supreme

In a message dated 98-09-30 22:29:33 EDT, you write:

<< Somebody mentioned looking at the tail lights for the year.  I think (not
 positive) the tail lights on 78-80 are all the same.  Usually the tail light
 lens has the date of the first year that particular lens was made.  So even
an
 80 may say 78 on the light >>

No.  The '78s have the "rocket" insignia in the middle.  The 79-80s do not.

- -Drew in Windy Western Kansas-

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 02:11:30 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tweeter Dome Location??

Jonathan,

Take some double sided tape, place it on the back of the tweeters
and move them around to find the location that you like the best.
Remember to use a long enough length of wire to reach all possible
locations. Hope this helps.

Kevin White
83 CSB, FE3X clone
86 CS  DD

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 02:43:23 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: Aftermarket Radio for 72

Peter,
Kenwood offers both a six disc and a ten disc changer. Any Kenwood deck with
changer controls will operate both changers. Go with the setup that
keeps you wallet full. Hope this helps.

Kevin White
83 CSB, FE3X clone
86 CS  DD

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 02:47:30 EDT
From: JJP442@aol.com
Subject: Olds wheel balancing

To all my fellow Olds enthusiasts,
A while back some posted the remedy for wheel balancing the SSII chrome wheels
on my 87 442 correctly. I thought I saved it so I can refer back to it now
that I'm  ready to buy new tires for my ride. It seems it has since been cast
off into cyber space never to be read again. If someone knows the cure for the
SSII balancing blues please let me know.
Thanks in advance,
John-Queens N.Y.
JJP442@aol.com
1983 H/O
1987 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 02:55:50 EDT
From: JJP442@aol.com
Subject: Fwd: Re:  Re:  junkyard

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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From: JJP442@aol.com
Return-path: <JJP442@aol.com>
To: super442@yahoo.com
Subject: Re:  Re:  junkyard
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 01:14:52 EDT
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

Sman
I need the drivers side pull vertical pull strap and the rectangular dash
pad.(the piece that goes form the left a/c vent to the middle vent over the
a/c controls).
both 87 olds grey.
Any help,
John-Queens N.Y.
JJP442@aol.com
1983 H/O
1987 442

- --part0_907224950_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 02:56:33 EDT
From: JJP442@aol.com
Subject: Fwd: Re:  junkyard

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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From: JJP442@aol.com
Return-path: <JJP442@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re:  junkyard
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 20:44:41 EDT
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

Ray,
I need some grey interior parts for my 87 442 notice any G bodies at the U-
pull salvage yard? Hoping not to make the trip for nothing
Thanx
John- Queens N.Y.
JJP442@aol.com
1983 H/O
1987 442

- --part0_907224993_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 02:13:04 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Tweeter Dome Location??

Ideally, the best location is ear level, equadistant from each other.  The 
first
part is easy, the second part is impossible.  Ideal location varies from 
opinion
to opinion.  In ~mine~, the best location is just above the base of the
windshield pillar.  Near ear level, out of sight, not too close, and clean.
Pic's of that, in a Cutlass, can be seen here:
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/rockit.htm
(Scroll down a bit...)  It's alot of work to put 'em there, though.  The Teaser
has tweets near where the window cranks would be.  That's much easier, and (for
the driver) still provides good sound quality.  The passenger will lose some
imaging due to the steering column, though.  That's where the pillar mount
really shines.  Not so close to be harsh, but ear level, and clear to both
listeners.  Mine involved a ~big~ holesaw, and losing ~three~ layers of steel 
in
the pillars.  NOT recommended for T-top cars!!!  Don't trust the loss of
structure!  One thing about low mounted tweets to keep in mind, is the spatial
imaging.  With low mounted tweeters, the sound field has a tendancy to drop.
The vocals ~seem~ to be coming from the floor.  Loss of points, and loss of
realism, in a competition scenario.  A good DSP will correct that, and proper
aiming may alleviate it somewhat, also.  Those who have never heard it, won't
readily understand, but those who ~have~, will.  I sat in a car with
near-perfect imaging.  Had the music surrounding you, and the vocalist...  
Well,
if you closed your eyes, you could almost see her...  On the hood ornament.  As
far as the ears were concerned, she was five feet in front of you, dead center,
singing her heart out.

Of course, that's a rather esoteric viewpoint, but if we're talking ~ideal~,
IMHO, that's it.

BTW, this car was a cougar, and one tweet was in the pass side dash, facing the
seats, and the other was in the drivers side, facing ~foreward~ into the
windshield!  The miracle of the Clarion DSP!  But the ear-level imaging that it
portrayed is best simulated by ear-level mounted tweeters, usually at the base
of the windshield pillar, and ~doesn't~ require $600 worth of soundfield
processors.

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
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     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 03:24:12 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: IF I DON'T GET SOME H*LP, MY CAR IS GOING TO DIE (long, PLEASE read!)

I went to Houston and back tonight for the Page/Plant concert, and my car
did a real good imitation of a piece of sh*t.  For review, I have a 1984
Delta 88 four door, 307 w/ 151k (and not a rebuild that I know of),
supposed TH-350 that it supposedly a rebuild (so previous owner said).  I
previously posted threads regarding some problems I was having -

> 1. My OIL/CHOKE idiot light comes on (and then goes off) at certain times,
> specifically when I go up or down hills, or when I come to a full stop (but
> never, for example, when I'm just booking down a flat stretch of highway).
> I check the oil every couple of days, and it always reads FULL; why is this
> happening? I don't think that it's a problem with the sender, because
> there are set times when it happens (up or down hills, etc.)...could it be
> the oil pump? Am I endangering my engine by driving it like this? After
> the light comes on, it will go off either (a) after the major part of the
> ascent (or descent) on the hill is completed, or (b) when I goose the
> accelerator. I think this could be a potentially serious problem...

Responses & Suggestions to this included:

1.  Install a Oil Pressure Guage, on a T-connector, to more adequately
measure pressure
2.  Bearing clearances may be too high...
3.  A comment that the oil pump is PROBABLY not the problem
4.  It may be a "swinging oil pick up" that isn't swinging (I NEVER GOT
MORE DETAILS ON THIS!!!)
5.  May be partially plugged oil passage ways or partially plugged oil
return holes in heads, with suggestion to look for sludge in heads, clean
tops of heads, do engine flush and change oil and filter.
6.  A comment that the oil pump MIGHT INDEED be the problem.

Now, I havn't done any of these things (COLLEGE STUDENT = NOT NEARLY ENOUGH
SPARE TIME), and that's not good, especially since #5 seemed to be a pretty
good exploratory suggestion.  But on the way to Houston (and back), the car
"surged"...by that I mean that you're going along at whatever speed (only
after about an hour of driving, though, so only after the engine is hot,
BUT at both highway and city speeds) and the car seems to momentarily lose
power for, like, exactly one second.  This is manifested by the car seeming
to want to make a break to the right (almost feels like the rear wheels are
trying to steer the car to the right, and the front ones don't wanna), and
then everything gets right back to normal...and then it does it again,
after maybe a few minutes, maybe more than a few minutes, or maybe 2 or 3
times within 15 seconds (but not more often than that, and THAT often only
rarely).

We pulled off the road at one point on the way to Houston to get gas, and
about a minute after I turned the engine off, wispy smoke began to come
from (seemed like) the exhaut manifold between the (from the front) 2nd and
3rd cylinders on the driver's side.  Not a HUGE amount of smoke, mind you,
but definately enough to notice (and get me really worried)...ALSO....

While this smoke is happening, after the engine is turned back on, the
engine is making A LOT of clicking noises that are LOUD...sounds kind of
like a pulley, or belt, becuase it's very regular and VERY LOUD - although
from what I can see none of these belts/pulleys were having a
problem...THIS NOISE WASN'T HAPPENING BEFORE ALL OF THIS OTHER EXCITEMENT
STARTED.  I checked the oil (with the engine off, RIGHT?) - lots of oil -
maybe TOO much oil on the dipstick?  Seemed to be REALLY full.  Checked the
tranny fluid, just for grins - no problems there.  The best part is, after
PUTTING SOME WATER IN THE RESERVOIR TANK (and that's capitalized because I
think it was just coincidence of timing), the noise went away.  Not only
that, but for the remainder of the trip to Houston, there was no more
surging.  The surging returned on the return trip, though.  I don't think
that this is a problem with my radiator or cooling system, because I NEVER
(knock, knock) get a TEMP warning, and the reservoir tank was real full
when I got home tonight...so I'm not just dropping radiator fluid all over
the place or anything...

At the very end of the return trip, the Oil/Choke idiot light was on A LOT
- - much longer after an acceleration from dead stop than normal, and much
sooner into a brake to a full stop.  The noise was also back in full force,
as seemed to be the smoke from the engine (this time, while the engine was
running, stopped at a gas station, same wispy,
noticable-but-not-brush-fire-intense smoke).

SO WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH MY FRIGGIN' MOTOR?

>2. My transmission "clicks". I know the car came stock with a TH-200, but
>the previous owner said (and I have the receipt) that the transmission had
>been replaced with a (quote from the receipt) "rebuilt TH-350". The
>"clicking" happens when I come to a complete stop, or when I accelerate
>from a dead stop. I have no other problems to report as far as the
>transmission is concerned, which is why I think that this is the less
>serious of the two mechanical problems I need help with...maybe it would
>help if I could positively identify the transmission that's on my car? How
>do I go about doing this? Is there an ID plate, or what?

I INCLUDE #2 (ABOVE) BECAUSE I NEVER GOT ANSWERS BESIDES "Sound like
something's not adjust right"...AND I SURE WOULD APPRECIATE SOME...

Thanks for making it to this far in the message...since you already have so
much time invested in this already, why don't you just go ahead and respond
with any suggestions/comments (privately/publicly, doesn't matter to me) so
I can see about getting this fixed ASAP.

MUCHAS GRACIAS.

(bye the way, the show rocked...although no Stairway, no Kashmir, no Dazed,
no Dyer Maker, no....I could go on and on and on...but then I already have...)
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 02:38:14 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)

> Fix the mechanicals first, THEN worry about tunes.  A killer stereo won't
> help you if you break down at the side of the road.  Attention to the
> drivetrain and such WILL.

Funny....  Whenever I'd dump a motor in the Rockit, I'd find myself wanderring
out from time to time, lifting the tarp, hopping in, and cranking the tunes...
In the backyard...  just sitting there...  Just to get away for a while.  Would
you rather push a car ~with~ or ~without~ music?  :)

Although powertrain reliability is a very strong must.

Another concern is security, as pointed out.  Depending on how much you put in,
an alarm system is ~always~ a good investment.  And you have two choices, when
it comes to alarms.  You can put one in ~before~ someone steals your stuff, or
you can do it ~after~ someone steals your stuff.  It's your call...  The 
choices
are that painfully simple, in reality.  Most of the alarms I've installed in 
the
past have been done because someone stole their stuff.  It's your call, based 
on
the local environment, but it's ~always~ a good investment.  Point:  I ~always~
arm my alarm, wherever I go.  I live in a small town.  Stuff happens, not 
often,
but it happens, none-the-less.  I always get "~WHY~ do you have an alarm in
~Sidney~ Montana?????"  Well, I still have my stuff.  Others may not.  My boss
had his van stolen last year (Not the hubcaps, not the stereo, but the whole
#@$%@%&% thing!  Ended up in Iowa.  HE had to go get it!  (then traded it off!
:)  It happens.  It's good advice given, to take steps to make sure it 
~doesn't~
happen to ~you~.


- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
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     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 02:45:56 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: RT was: Oh, by the way...

> In a posted Email that SHOULD have been private, C.B. writes:

Uh oh...  Another cut and paste tragedy...  (Prompted by another late night at
work...)  I ~never~ even noticed.  Crap, I never even saw it hit the list!
(~That's~ bad!!!)  My personal apoligies to the list for the bandwidth
wasting... (I hope my spellchecker was turned to "censor" mode still...)
Oops.....  I ~guess~ however, I can claim Olds content in Rocket Talk, but
that's still pretty slim...  Guess I'll have to go take that cut-n-paste 101
class ~again!~  Flunked it the first five times, ya know.....   :(     (Another
advocate for putting a mailto: tag in sig files....  But I really should pay
more attention, regardless of hour or sobriety, or whatever the $$#%$#^ I
happened to be thinking at the time...... )


- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 06:49:04 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 307 exhaust manifold leak

Not on the list, respond to GWright442@aol.com if you have any ideas.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	GWright442@aol.com
Subject: 307 exhaust manifold leak

I just put a reman 307 engine in my 87 Cutlass.  It was an exact replacement
engine and it runs great with one exception; I can't get the exhaust manifolds
to stop leaking.  I know that there are two different sizes of gaskets (cast
vs steel manifolds) and I do have the correct ones on.  I used FelPro gaskets.
Is there a better gasket to try?  I really do not want to take the manifolds
apart from the cross member to surface them.  The design is kind of like a
header and I'm not certain they can be surfaced anyway.  I have had the car
running for I week and I don't want to drive it because the leak is so
annoying and I don't want to damage the engine.

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Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 07:03:58 -0500
From: Joe Gutierrez <joe_gut@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: F*rd solenoid trick - my windy explanation

I'm the original author of the F*rd solenoid trick (but certainly not
the originator, as someone said, this trick has been around for many
moons).

Although I believe that the comment by Mike Robe/Roger Schmidt was well
thought out, with very valid tips included, I feel compelled to respond
with my hypothesis as to why this works.  It _does_ work, by the way,
I'm running such a set up on both of my Olds and I no longer have any
hot start problems.  Used to have problems, though.

Based on my observation during disassembly of the GM solenoid, the GM
solenoid sends the current from the S wire to the battery terminal on
the solenoid via a circular contact inside the solenoid.  The heavy
current from the battery cable in turn starts the starter turning and
pulls a lever back so that the bendix pushes the starter gear out to
engage the flywheel/flexplate.  Once current to the S wire is cut (when
you let off the key), the current no longer flows through the circular
contact to the battery terminal, the battery contact is disconnected and
the starter stops turning.

Herein is the problem; when the starter solenoid is baked as it is on an
Olds, the contacts on the circular contact become burned, and the
current from the S wire can no longer force an adequate connection to
the stud that the battery cable is attached to.  Thus, the starter turns
very slowly, if at all, due to inadequate current from the battery.

The F*rd solenoid takes the job of S terminal out of the GM solenoid.
When the F*rd solenoid is activated (via the S wire that you move during
the install), it sends the full amount of battery current directly to
the battery terminal on the GM solenoid and thus to the starter.  Here's
where I'm not sure about the operation, but I think the S terminal on
the GM solenoid is jumped to the battery terminal during the install so
it can still move the bendix to engage the starter gear.  Not sure about
this, since it appears the starter gear moves forward to engage the
flywheel automatically once the starter starts spinning (it sits on a
"rifled" shaft and seems to move forward by design once the starter
spins).  The bottom line is that the starter is now getting a full load
of current, since the battery terminal voltage in the GM solenoid no
longer depends on the circular contact in the GM solenoid.  Believe me,
the circular contact gets pretty burned without the F*rd solenoid trick.

Now that you've spent your time reading this, bear in mind that I'm a
CPA by trade ;-), so I'm certainly no mechanic.  However, I will
continue to testify that this trick works.  If some of the real
gearheads on the list can provide a more correct explanation as to why
this in fact works, I'd love to read it.  Maybe someone already has, as
I'm in digest mode.  If so, sorry for the waste of bandwidth.

Joe Gutierrez OCA 30387, H/O 714
'71 442 convt
'72 H/O h/t

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Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 08:34:50 -0400
From: "FRANK MONTERO" <parc@erols.com>
Subject: 1985 442

I wanted to flush out my engine oil and clean out the engine. I was told
never to use "MOTOR FLUSH" because it can seize your engine. What do you
recommend I use?

I was also told I could simply change the oil every month for about 3 months
and that would also take the place of flushing it!!

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Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 08:37:52 -0400
From: "FRANK MONTERO" <parc@erols.com>
Subject: funny sound

My 85 442 make a loud humming sound as you drive past 40mph. It only does it
when the gas is being applied. Once you release the gas it stops until you
reapply it again. I can't quite put my finger on what it is? Any ideas?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 08:53:38 -0400
From: Jim Olson <jolson@remcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: funny sound

Could be rear end gears or bearings, could be u-joints, could be...

Jim...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 09:04:42 -0400
From: "FRANK MONTERO" <parc@erols.com>
Subject: Re: funny sound

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Olson <jolson@remcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, October 01, 1998 8:55 AM
Subject: Re: funny sound


>Could be rear end gears or bearings, could be u-joints, could be...
>
>Jim...
>

The sound comes from the front drivers side, Jim

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 09:05:27 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: funny sound

In a message dated 10/1/98
 8:<BR04:<BR08 AM Central Daylight Tim, parc@erols.com writes:

> >Could be rear end gears or bearings, could be u-joints, could be...
>  >
>  >Jim...
>  >
>
>  The sound comes from the front drivers side, Jim


Hmmmm,

maybe a loose screw or something???? <G>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 09:05:52 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: IF I DON'T GET SOME H*LP, MY CAR IS GOING TO DIE !

<Snip>

> 1. My OIL/CHOKE idiot light comes on (and then goes off) at certain times,
> specifically when I go up or down hills, or when I come to a full stop
(but
> never, for example, when I'm just booking down a flat stretch of highway).
> I check the oil every couple of days, and it always reads FULL; why is
this
> happening? I don't think that it's a problem with the sender, because
> there are set times when it happens (up or down hills, etc.)...could it be
> the oil pump? Am I endangering my engine by driving it like this? After
> the light comes on, it will go off either (a) after the major part of the
> ascent (or descent) on the hill is completed, or (b) when I goose the
> accelerator. I think this could be a potentially serious problem...

I once, some 20+ years ago had a che*y that the Oil pump pickup tube
literally slipped off and was found laying in the pan. This was on an engine
that had never been opened up previously. If I remember, it had around
95,000 miles. I don't recall if their was a retaining bolt that had backed
out or if the tube was a slip fit. Nonetheless, the oil pump base just
slightly submerged into the oil surface (I believe it was slightly overfull
of oil) on level ground. The car example the light warning more on downhill
expanses while braking, (oil sloshes to small pan front). A thump on the gas
through the oil back to rear pan for 100 feet or so. I too was told to check
bearing surfaces. When removing pan to do same, was (gratefully) greeted
with the disconnected pickup tube. Reinstalled it, (still don't remember if
there was a retaining bolt), the pan and no more oil light problem. One
other thing though. Because of repetitive oil starvation to the hydraulic
lifters, a couple had leaked down it's internal reserve and the valve train
would click, knock, clack, ect, until the oil had been restored (slightly
longer than just the light going out). Each subsequent light on cycle
worsened the lifter starvation. I suppose that during when the lifter would
take it's time to re-oil, an excess amount of oil would be pumped up to the
valve train cover and seep from an obscure leak in the cover gasket. Yeap, a
little whiff of oil smoke as it dripped slightly onto the exhaust and
burned.

I've never pulled an Olds pan to know the PU tube fastening, but your
description sounds dead on to my experience. What do you think Olds Gods...

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
gjcouse@francomm.com
  
1986 Custom Cutlass Brougham = "Quincy"








<>-----Original Message-----
<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Brian Ammons

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1522
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