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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1515


oldsmobile-digest     Tuesday, September 29 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1515



Re: Olds info
Hobby Honey's
Re: 1970 Cutlass "S" Convertable
Re: cars
Re: Edelbrock RPM/ jeremy
Re: 350 Buildup
Re: General
Re: 350 Buildup/ randy
subscribe oldsmobile digest
Re: Fw: Virus Warning!!
Re: Overheating, PLEASE HE/_P!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Re: 350 Buildup
Re: Octane requirements
Re: seat belts
Re: junkyard
UNBOUNCE: Re: '87 Olds Stock Engine
RE: Omega Help
Re: List Cars
Re: Oil additives was: Oil Viscosity
RE: 350 Buildup
Re: A body or G body?
F/S: Hallmark '69 H/O Ornaments
Re: Hail Storm
Re: 350 Buildup
unsubscribe list
Re: 'Nother 69 question
Re: Omega Help
Re: 1 of 78??!!
RE: Hallmark '69 H/O Ornaments
Re: G body ~true duals~ -Reply
Re: G body ~true duals~
Re: F*rd solenoid trick explained - long, delete if you know how
Re: F/S: Hallmark '69 H/O Ornaments
installing rear main seal
Re: another fan question
Re: "The Simpsons" pick a good target
Re: pondering the ignition advance.
Re: installing rear main seal
Re: pondering the ignition advance.
Re: installing rear main seal
Re: installing rear main seal
Re: G body ~true duals~
Found '73 Cutlass MINT with 8900 miles covered in vasoline!!!!
Fw: 442 Dash
Re: 350 Buildup
Re: Octane requirements
Re: Octane requirements
Re: Octane requirements
Joe (Buy a 455) Padavano
Re: Octane requirements
Re: '87 Olds Stock Engine
W-35 : Yes or No
Re: blowby
Valve cover gasket recomendations
RE: Hallmark '69 H/O Ornaments
Re: Joe (Buy a 455) Padavano
Re: Everyone lists their cars
Re: GN Guy, wanting OLDS PARTS for a Bu-ick....
4 speed tunnel
Re: Valve cover gasket recomendations

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 02:07:13 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds info

Ron,

That would be the home of Bryceman.
You'll get to know him.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 22:09:45 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Hobby Honey's

Many times we've gone over the supporters and detractors of the ones who
share our love;  I've put my .01 1/2 cents in before about being on the
other side of the fence here guys -  whoever you are living with seems to
have a say, positive or negative, especially when it comes to things that
take up space.  So when we have to move three of my cars to get HIS boat
out.....thats when I remind him the truck that pulls that boat (and moves
the non-mobile cars) is MINE:-)

It keeps the grumbling about how many projects I have to a low roar.....and
the day we have the convertible up and running and out cruising, I don't
think he'll be complaining too loudly......

Olds content: my VC got first place in her class at the show on
Sunday.....:-)  made the old girl feel good (not me, the car).




To change OR add your banner.......

Step #1.... edit your account

Go to the banner Members page.
click on "Members"

Then enter your account "Name" and "Password" into the
"account control panel"
and press the "Log On" button.

NEXT:
Then find and press the "Edit Account" Button.
Now, you should be at the "Add/Edit/Delete Account" page.

Look for " Banner URL(s): " this is where you add / insert your banner
URL address. (it is stored at your site)
you can add up to 3 banners here....
i.e.
http://www.aaaaa.net/~al1/banner1.gif
http://www.aaaaa.org/~al1/banner2.gif
http://www.aaaaa.com/~al1/banner3.gif

After you have made the changes that you wanted, click the "Ad/Edit
Account" button. Your done!

Now you should be at "Banner Exchange Administrative Display"
page..... from here you can check your...  banner Stats, View IP Address
Log, Edit your account, or exit..... got to any URL address you like.

Also, it would be nice to Email me at this time and let me know that you have
edited your account.... when you edit your account, the system will suspend
it, until I give it the ok.

Hope this helps




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 22:25:37 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: 1970 Cutlass "S" Convertable

Joe - if I wasn't mistaken, there was a '70 or '71 SX or S convertible at
our show on Sunday.  However, I didn't look at it that closely.  I know it
was either of the two.  Did they make SX converts but not S's?  I saw a
triple black '69 S convertible a while back that was just breathtaking -
sigh.

Almost made me forget what a bit*h black paint can be:-)


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible,  '72
Vista Cruiser, '80 GMC

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 02:39:58 -0400
From: "John H. Edmonds III" <edmonds@UU.NET>
Subject: Re: cars

- --------------9418D29ACF74E6452F0A2B91
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit



What five speed is behind that 455? The one made by Richmond Gear? Is that a
difficult swap? I have a 67 Cutlass Supreme Convertible that has the 330/320
and the Jetaway, and am thinking about replacing both. Should I forget about
the five speed and just go with a TH350 for ease of conersion


> 67 Cutlass hardtop - daily driver - .......M4A3E8....
> 67 Cutlass drop top 455 5 speed .......M36
> 81 F100                                           ........Deuce and a half
>
> The General



- --
============================================================================
John H. Edmonds III
Network Operations Engineer
UUNET WorldCom
(703) 206-5485

Eat, drink and be merry, then sleep it off.
============================================================================



- --------------9418D29ACF74E6452F0A2B91
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML>
&nbsp;

<P>What five speed is behind that 455? The one made by Richmond Gear? Is
that a difficult swap? I&nbsp;have a 67 Cutlass Supreme Convertible that
has the 330/320 and the Jetaway, and am thinking about replacing both.
Should I&nbsp;forget about the five speed and just go with a TH350 for
ease of conersion
<BR>&nbsp;
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>67 Cutlass hardtop - daily driver - .......M4A3E8....
<BR>67 Cutlass drop top 455 5 speed .......M36
<BR>81
F100&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb
s
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp
;
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&
n
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ........Deuce and a half

<P>The General</BLOCKQUOTE>
&nbsp;
<PRE>--&nbsp;
============================================================================
John H. Edmonds III
Network Operations Engineer
UUNET WorldCom
(703) 206-5485


Eat, drink and be merry, then sleep it off.
============================================================================</P
R
E> &nbsp;</HTML>

- --------------9418D29ACF74E6452F0A2B91--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 02:48:57 EDT
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Edelbrock RPM/ jeremy

In a message dated 98-09-29 01:16:20 EDT, you write:

>  wish i
>could use that w31 cam in the garage....  its rated at something crazy like
>308 duration!!!  i would just like to see what it sounded like idling.  oh
>well, i got my foot in there....  :-)
>jeremy
jeremy:
i put a new w-31 cam in my 70 w-31 , and yes it does sound sweet! , joe
mondello told me not to, he said it was a dinosaur cam and i should buy one of
his cams instead. i was going for original though and must say it sure runs
awfull good for a fossil. :)   i did try one of joe`s  M 18/20 cams he
recommends for 350`s in my rallye 350 a few years back.  he said it would
really wake it up. i asked if i could use the stock converter and rear end
gears (3:23) and he said sure no problem. the car pulled like a dog!,  i do
like his M 20/22 cam that is it my 455 though, and some of his other products
as well.  i had pondered on the edelbrock package but never did talk with
anyone who was running one.                     steven,  w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 02:50:31 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 350 Buildup

>Then I would go for a good cam. Anything about 270 is outragous for a small
block.a 268 comp cams will be real radical in the 350,

I gotta disagree........I'm running Comps 280H in a 350 and it runs great.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 03:03:02 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: General

>When's Carlisle?


October 1st thru 4th

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 03:08:54 EDT
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 350 Buildup/ randy

In a message dated 98-09-29 02:55:49 EDT, you write:

>I gotta disagree........I'm running Comps 280H in a 350 and it runs great.
>
>Randy
>
>

randy, what kind of converter/rear end gears are you running ? and are you
useing an adjustable valve train?  steven, w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 04:57:02 EDT
From: mnbassman@juno.com (Pat a Kimber)
Subject: subscribe oldsmobile digest

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 15:42:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: Virus Warning!!

- ---Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net> wrote:
 This is a new twist.  Someone is sending out a very desirable
screen-saver, the Budweiser Frogs. But if you download it, you will
lose everything!!!



- ----For those interested in the bud frogs ,IF you want the REAL
(safe)version you can go to the bud site and get it there....it is cool.
                   Sman
==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 19:48:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Overheating, PLEASE HE/_P!!!!!!!!!!!!!

- ---Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com> wrote:
>
> At 07:14 PM 9/15/98 -0400, you wrote:
> >I cannot figure this out!
> >My car is an 87 Cutlass Supreme.  It has in it a built 403, cooled
by the
> >original radiotor, a 307 car one.
> >The damn thing is running hotter than it should.  It is now running
> >between 180 and 200, depending on if I am on the highway or in town.
> >This is the temp with no thermostat.  It shouldn't go above 150 or
maybe
> >160 w/o the thermo.  here's what I've done and checked...

- -----Are you running a two or three core radiator? A new three core
will run you about $86. at most auto parts stores. The two core about
$83. For the price difference I would go for the three core as it
provides better cooling. Also need to install thermostat.
          Later,
          Sman
==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 07:29:03 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: 350 Buildup

Get ahold of Greg Rollins at Supercars in Oregon.  (503) 244-8249.  Or,
E-mail at supercars@transport.com OR www.supercarsunlimited.com
Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Cutw29@aol.com <Cutw29@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 28, 1998 9:05 PM
Subject: 350 Buildup


>Does anybody have a good idea based on their own experiences for a 350
>buildup?  I don't have lots of money but I have a 350 (in my 72 Cutlass
"S")
>with a edelbrock performer intake and a Holley 600 vacuum secondaries.  The
>car has the original single exhaust so obviously I am going to add the dual
>exhaust and headers but as far as the engine is concerned I don't really
know
>where to start.  I want to use the car for mostly street and a little
strip.
>What are the best factory cylinder heads?  How much is a good price for
them?
>What would be a good camshaft?  What are the best pistons? As you can see I
>don't know really what to use and I know that you guys are the best so
please
>help me out!!!!  I don't want to put in a Chevy small block like everyone
else
>says to use!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 07:46:06 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Octane requirements

I use 93 octane national brand fuels (Chevron, Shell, Texaco) in my 10.5 to
1 425 cid  66 Toro and 67 Delta Custom with  a 180 degree tstat.  Also in my
10.25 442.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ray Costanzo <rocket409@juno.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 28, 1998 11:53 PM
Subject: Octane requirements


>Anyone out there who is running 10.5:1 compression at 180 degree engine
>temperature, what octane does your car ask of you?
>
>Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
>                        Bucks County, PA
>-
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 07:10:18 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
Subject: Re: seat belts

Try Ssnake-Oyl Products, Inc.  They remanufacture seat belts.
www.ssnake-oyl.com  or 903-769-4555

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 08:12:53 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: junkyard

In a message dated 98-09-27 18:04:25 EDT, you write:

<< So, I just went to Harry's U Pull junkyard in Hazleton, PA and it kicks
 ass.  10,000 cars, many Oldses.  Got some bucket seats and a turn signal
 stalk.  $16 total.  I recommend this place to anyone "nearby".
 Now to manufacture a console out of some polypropolene, yeah, fire
 retardant :-) >>

Ray,
Thanks for that info. Seen any 75 Deltas there? I'm in central NJ. Hazelton's
prolly only an hour or so from me.
Bruce
75 Delta conv.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 09:16:15 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Re: '87 Olds Stock Engine

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	jtherndon@webtv.net (Jeff Herndon)
Subject: Re: '87 Olds Stock Engine

David,

I'm not sure if you got the info you were looking for (my mailbox got
full and I'm sure a few posts got returned). What you have is indeed an
Olds 307 cid V-8. The "Y" is the giveaway, assuming there has not been
an engine swap. (VIN code "9" designates the 442 motor, also a 307, but
with a beefier cam, better tranny, and other goodies) That aside, the
problem with a Performer manifold is the heads. Starting in '86, Olds
switched to a different head (coded 7A, vice 5A for pre-86, IIRC). They,
for some unknown reason, shrunk the size of the intake ports. The result
was a reduction in horsepower by about 10 on the "Y" motor. The other
consequence is the ports don't match the larger size on the Performer
manifold, causing "reversion". In other words, the air/fuel flow bounces
back into the manifold, creating backpressure and (probably) worse
performance than the stock intake. I'm guessing, but Edelbrock and other
performance parts makers most likely don't find it cost effective to
produce a manifold for an engine/head combo produced for only three
years (86-88).

As far as other performance parts, the only thing I've found that would
really make a difference is a cam like in the "9" motor. You can go
bigger, but I'm not sure it would be better. Another idea I've toyed
with is to find a set of pre-86 heads, then add the intake and cam combo
from Edelbrock. I don't know how that would work out in the HP per $
column. The best option (my .02) is a larger displacement engine. Olds
350 parts aren't too hard to find.

My build-up/resto is still in the planning stages (read: need more
money), but at this point I'm leaning toward an Olds 350, TH200-4R,
3-series rear gears, keeping the computer.  Anyone got this combo for
sale, real cheap?:-)

Jeff Herndon
'86 CS 307Y "Gutless"


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08:33:21 -0500 To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca From: David Harms
<dph0569@flash.net> Subject: '87 Olds Stock Engine Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" X-Orcpt:
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oldsmobile-mml" Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

Hi, i recently bought an '87 olds 2 door cutlass salon, and am having some
trouble determining the engine that is in it.

I've talked to some people on the internet and we all THINK it is a 307, i
know for sure that it is 5.0L v8.  The thing is something weird happened, i
wanted to buy an aluminum Intake Manifold for it, but edelbrocks (#3711)
are listed for '85 & earlier, so i called up summit to see if they could
give me a reason why it wouldn't fit a '87 307, they told me it was because
olds switched to center bolt valve covers that year so it wouldn't fit, i
went out side to check my engine, and welp No center bolts =], and some
guys on the internet agreed, they had never seen and olds with center
bolts, just SBC's.  So my question remains, do i in fact have a Olds 307,
and if so who makes performance parts that will fit that year?

O yeah the 8th digit of my vin number is a Y in case it helps

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

	-Thanks
	-David

- --WebTV-Mail-170392039-2882--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 05:23:05 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Omega Help

>> Well I'm new to the mailing list and just found a 73 Omega
>> for sale in Chicago (I'm in Houston) It's at a dealership
>> and they are asking $995 for it, and I went ahead and put
>> down $200 for them to hold the car.
[...]
> Huummm, In my local Want Ad Digest:
>
> '81 Omega : 6cyl, GC, runs good,
> little rust, ready to drive, $300.
> (Albany, NY) - (518)449-7830.

No Huummm necessary; that is a different car. The '73 Omega is
a Nova clone (well, apparently the Nova has more unique sheet
metal than any of its Apollo/Ventura II/Omega sisters, but more
people can picture the Nova than the others) on the old RWD
platform. The '81 Omega is related to the Citation and the other
first-generation GM FWD X cars; it has nothing in common with the
'73 and isn't a descendant of it.

One thing I just thought of that your friend might want to look
for on the '73: they had a knack for shearing a centering pin in
the rear suspension which allowed the rear axle to shift on its
mount over the leaf springs, and caused the whole car to "crab"
noticeably sideways as it went down the road. Not real horrendous
to fix, IIRC, but a little bizarre for drivers following, who
could see down the whole side of the car.  :-)  Driving in a
straight line through a puddle, then examining the tire tracks
left behind, can tell you if your alignment is messed up.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 08:25:56 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: List Cars

In a message dated 98-09-27 20:01:29 EDT, you write:

<< My wife's position is that I don't gamble, smoke, run around with
 other women or break dishes or bodies.  So if I want some old used car, and
 the bills are paid, she says, have at it.  Peter. >>

You're a lucky man to have such an understanding SO. I've often said I should
have gone to a car show to meet my wife!
Bruce

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 08:35:16 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Oil additives was: Oil Viscosity

Karl,

You're welcome.

I just got tired of all the guessing and decided to "go to the mountain"
for the correct information.

Mark Hahn
75 Delta 88 Royale Conv.
Cincinnati, Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 08:42:37 -0400
From: "Fields, Brent (SE_ENG)" <fieldsb@valeo.sylvania.com>
Subject: RE: 350 Buildup

I've got a 350 in my '72 "S" that I rebuilt last winter.  Been to the strip
once.  My 1/8th mile time was a best of 9.95 so far.  That's letting the
transmission shift itself and a pretty poor takeoff due to the fact I need a
larger torque converter.  I rebuilt mine using the PAW Master rebuild kit.
The kit included forged pistons, moly rings, Michigan77 bearings, and
Fel-Pro Gaskets.  I also bought a Performer RPM cam and intake along with a
3310 Holley 750 Vacuum Secondary carb.  I used the 7A heads (which should be
what you have) and ground out the EGR bumps before I had them tanked and a
valve job done.  I also installed new valve springs and steel rocker pivots.
With 7A heads and flat-top piston you should have around 10:5 compression.
That's what I have and it runs fine around town.  Most of all, don't forget
to get a good oil pump!  I do have headers with 2 1/2" exhaust.
My transmission was real loose so I had it rebuilt with extra racing
clutches and a deep pan to keep it cooler and I'm running 3.42:1 rear gears.
(I would guess you probably have 2.73:1's)
Let me know how it goes.

Brent Fields
'72 Cutlass 'S'  (Soon to be painted)
'71 Cutlass Supreme (Someday it'll be a bracket car.)

	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Peter Berusch [SMTP:pber710840@email.msn.com]
	Sent:	Tuesday, September 29, 1998 6:29 AM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	Re: 350 Buildup

	Get ahold of Greg Rollins at Supercars in Oregon.  (503) 244-8249.
Or,
	E-mail at supercars@transport.com OR www.supercarsunlimited.com
	Peter.
	-----Original Message-----
	From: Cutw29@aol.com <Cutw29@aol.com>
	To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
	Date: Monday, September 28, 1998 9:05 PM
	Subject: 350 Buildup


	>Does anybody have a good idea based on their own experiences for a
350
	>buildup?  I don't have lots of money but I have a 350 (in my 72
Cutlass
	"S")
	>with a edelbrock performer intake and a Holley 600 vacuum
secondaries.  The
	>car has the original single exhaust so obviously I am going to add
the dual
	>exhaust and headers but as far as the engine is concerned I don't
really
	know
	>where to start.  I want to use the car for mostly street and a
little
	strip.
	>What are the best factory cylinder heads?  How much is a good price
for
	them?
	>What would be a good camshaft?  What are the best pistons? As you
can see I
	>don't know really what to use and I know that you guys are the best
so
	please
	>help me out!!!!  I don't want to put in a Chevy small block like
everyone
	else
	>says to use!

	

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 08:48:56 EDT
From: BigEJ@aol.com
Subject: Re: A body or G body?

>> So I heard that Cutlasses were A bodies up unitl 81.   Then in 82, they

>> decided to call the "g".

>

>Technically, I believe this is correct, the 81 was still officially
considerred

>the A body, but in practice, the 78-88 platforms have been commonly called

>G-bodies, although not entirely accurate.
 Actually, if memory serves me correctly, the reason A bodies became G bodies
is that Olds had planned to drop the Cutlass in 1982.  It was to be replaced
with the Ciera.  However the Cutlass at that time was the number one selling
car in the country (see how far Olds has come!).  So Olds wisely kept the
Cutlass going as long as they could.  This caused a bit of a problem in
platform naming because the Ciera as the Cutlass's replacement was originally
intended to completely replace the old rear wheel drive platform.  Names,
position in the product line, everything.  Olds customers kept buying the
Cutlass and were very slow in accepting the Ciera, so the name changed on the
line Olds (GM) thought was the "short timer".

Ernie Johnson

50 88
67 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 98 08:43:39 -0500
From: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
Subject: F/S: Hallmark '69 H/O Ornaments

Time to start that holiday shopping!!!
=========================================
||  Hallmark 1969 Hurst/442 Ornaments  ||
=========================================
(Their description, not mine)
New in the box, unopened. Created by Hallmark in recognition of
Oldsmobile's 100th last year.  Great detail and a 1 year only production
run. I'll send them by USPS Priority Mail and well padded to prevent any
damage.  $25 including the $3 shipping. E-mail me for the address to send
your order to.

 -----  Brad Nicholson (OCA's WebGuy)
|  |  | OCA# 18984
|  |  | 1987 442 W-42
|  |  | 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
|  |  | President, Oldsmobile Centennial Club (Maryland Chapter of OCA)
|  |  | Oldsmobile Centennial Club Web Site: http://www.erols.com/brad442/occ
| /|\ | H: brad442@erols.com
|/ | \| W: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
|  |  | OCA: WebGuy@oldsclub.org
 -----  Oldsmobile Club of America Web Site: http://www.oldsclub.org

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 08:56:58 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hail Storm

In a message dated 98-09-28 14:22:10 EDT, you write:

<< I know what you mean.  We had a hail storm in Duluth, Mn and everyones cars
 and houses recieved major damage.  I hid my Olds under a gas station canopy
 and missed most of it.  Hail started small and grew up to tennis ball size.
 This would have been murder to my new paint job. >>

Hey Matt,
What happens insurance-wise with a hail storm? Are you covered or it an "act
of God"? Just wonderin.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 09:08:25 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: 350 Buildup

RANDY A GEISEL wrote:
>
> >Then I would go for a good cam. Anything about 270 is outragous for a small
> block.a 268 comp cams will be real radical in the 350,
>
> I gotta disagree........I'm running Comps 280H in a 350 and it runs great.

Yeah, me too. I got the 265 DEH cam in my Olds, average out is more like
268. I haven't driven it yet, but it sounds and lopes like a healthy
street cam, nothing too radical. It makes power from 1200-5500, so I'd
say it's pretty ideal for the street.

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 07:10:27 -0500
From: "Tony Eichholz" <eichholz@liljasper.com>
Subject: unsubscribe list

unsubscribe list or tell me where to do it,don't have enough time to read
all. Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 08:13:30 -0500
From: <Michael_Baugher/MO/americancentury@americancentury.com>
Subject: Re: 'Nother 69 question

Hey Joe,

I have your pattern ready for the "442" on your fenders. Give me your
address and I'll drop it in the mail if you still need it.

Thanks,
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 06:16:43 PDT
From: "Olds Omega" <oldsomega73@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Omega Help

>>What year Omega?  And where are you?
>
>Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
>                        Bucks County, PA

It's a 73 Omega and the car is in Chicago but I'm going to pick it up
and bring it down to Houston.

Avery Plank

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 09:25:26 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1 of 78??!!

69 Ninety eight convert:
Base price: $4702
Prod.: 4288

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 09:38:31 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Hallmark '69 H/O Ornaments

Brad;

Since their "Hallmark's" wouldn't they be orderable through any Hallmark
location?

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom

gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>
  
"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS


<>-----Original Message-----
<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of
<>brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
<>Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 1998 9:44 AM
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<>Subject: F/S: Hallmark '69 H/O Ornaments
<>
<>
<>
<>Time to start that holiday shopping!!!
<>=========================================
<>||  Hallmark 1969 Hurst/442 Ornaments  ||
<>=========================================
<>(Their description, not mine)
<>New in the box, unopened. Created by Hallmark in recognition of
<>Oldsmobile's 100th last year.  Great detail and a 1 year only production
<>run. I'll send them by USPS Priority Mail and well padded to prevent any
<>damage.  $25 including the $3 shipping. E-mail me for the address to send
<>your order to.
<>
<> -----  Brad Nicholson (OCA's WebGuy)
<>|  |  | OCA# 18984
<>|  |  | 1987 442 W-42
<>|  |  | 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
<>|  |  | President, Oldsmobile Centennial Club (Maryland Chapter of OCA)
<>|  |  | Oldsmobile Centennial Club Web Site:
http://www.erols.com/brad442/occ
| /|\ | H: brad442@erols.com
|/ | \| W: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
|  |  | OCA: WebGuy@oldsclub.org
 -----  Oldsmobile Club of America Web Site: http://www.oldsclub.org

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 08:41:12 -0600
From: Les Knopp <LESK@wcs.edu>
Subject: Re: G body ~true duals~ -Reply

late model Z28's have a true two in, two out cat converter... the rest
should be up to your exhaust shop... unless of course you've got a tube
bender lying around somewhere.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 09:44:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Re: G body ~true duals~

On Tue, 29 Sep 1998 JJP442@aol.com wrote:

> I'd like to know more about this true dual exhaust. Do you have a picture if
> this set-up?? What about the cat-converter??Who did the work?
> John-Queens N.Y.
> JJP442@aol.com
> 1983 H/O
> 1987 442
>
Contact TorqueTech for a catalog and all your questions will be answered.



Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 09:01:49 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: F*rd solenoid trick explained - long, delete if you know how

Joe_Gut said it better than I could. Sorry if this is redundant.

roger



>Since a few people asked me what I meant by my "F*rd solenoid" trick I
>spoke of last night, I thought I'd reply to the list.  It seems hot
>starting problems are going around these days (no surprise).
>
>I know a lot of members know this old trick, but it might help a few
>folks so bear with me (or delete!).  This was explained on the list a
>while back, but I didn't understand it then.  Maybe I can explain it a
>bit more clearly.
>
>Basically, the F solenoid is divorced from the starter and therefore
>dosen't bake like the GM design.  I have found two ways to incorporate
>this into my Olds:
>
>One, buy the "Hot Start" kit from Summit.  It comes with the solenoid, a
>jumper that you need and some wires, with instructions.  Cost is about
>$25, and it works well.  You will have better results if you replace
>your battery cables with good thick ones when you do the switch, WalMart
>by my house sells 2 gauge cables for a good price.  Worst part of the
>job is pulling the starter, but you have to do it under either method.
>With the starter down, I always disassemble and clean the contacts on
>the inside of GM solenoid (don't know if that's necessary, but dosen't
>hurt).
>
>Cheaper way, buy a F solenoid from a parts store for $10 or less. Mount
>on the fenderwell - mine fits nicely between the battery and the horn
>relay.  Disconnect the battery and buy the replacement thick battery
>cables.  Remove the wire from the "S" terminal of your GM solenoid (it
>is marked under the gunk), and jump the "S" terminal on the GM solenoid
>to the large battery terminal on the GM solenoid.  The Summit kit comes
>with a nice copper jumper, but I guess you could make one from wire or
>copper plate.  Then run the disconnected "S" wire to the "S" terminal on
>the new F solenoid, run the new cables to the F solenoid and from the F
>solenoid to the battery terminal on the GM solenoid, reattach the
>starter and battery and you are ready to go.
>
>I run HEI on my cars so I don't have the "R" wire for my ignition, but I
>guess if you just leave this hooked up on your existing GM solenoid you
>will be ok.  Maybe the experts here could correct me if I'm wrong on
>this.
>
>An added bonus is that it's easy to "bump the engine over" with a
>screwdriver using the F solenoid.
>
>Hope this helps someone - wish I'd had known this for my high school
>Cutlass (_not_ cool waiting for your car to cool while on a date!).
>
>Joe Gutierez OCA 30387 H/O 714
>71 442 convt
>72 H/O h/t
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 08:53:54 -0500
From: <Michael_Baugher/MO/americancentury@americancentury.com>
Subject: Re: F/S: Hallmark '69 H/O Ornaments

- --0__=0daWleK5T9bCj8MoKFqVplQpYxzZgCNOkiF4OOZUbinQAFrnR86wWQEF
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Disposition: inline



New in the box, unopened. Created by Hallmark in recognition of
Oldsmobile's 100th last year.  Great detail and a 1 year only production
run. I'll send them by USPS Priority Mail and well padded to prevent any
damage.  $25 including the $3 shipping. E-mail me for the address to send
your order to.

 -----  Brad Nicholson (OCA's WebGuy)


***I picked up two of those last month at Walgreen's drug store. They were
50% off to make room for the 1998 stock. Keep your eyes out for them. They
cost me $7.50 each. My 2
- --0__=0daWleK5T9bCj8MoKFqVplQpYxzZgCNOkiF4OOZUbinQAFrnR86wWQEF
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Disposition: inline
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable


=A2.

Mike Baugher
69 Cutlass S conv
=

- --0__=0daWleK5T9bCj8MoKFqVplQpYxzZgCNOkiF4OOZUbinQAFrnR86wWQEF--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 09:58:27 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: installing rear main seal

I'm replacing my rear main seal, both upper and lower seals, and am facing a
dilemna.  The shop manual clearly says to apply sealant to the *ends* of the
rope seal, as well as the small area of the main bearing cap next to the seal.
The Olds FAQ also agrees with this view.   However, the directions from FelPro
and I think someone on this list, say *never* to apply sealant to the ends of
the seal, I think because the crank can catch the RTV, pull it around and off,
thus botching the whole job.  Any opinions?

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 09:30:29 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: another fan question

>Yes it is.
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
Peter,

Thanks. Thought so. Any way to check those to see if they're defectiv?

Some previous owner put one of those on my 68 350. It can easily be turned
by hand at any temp. I suppose I ought to just ditch it & replace with temp
activated type, but somehow I have more needs than $ theses days. lookin' to
save a buck......

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 09:33:02 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: "The Simpsons" pick a good target

>> Nelson
>>Muntz takes his air rifle into his backyard for a little target
>>practice on an old car they've got up on blocks. Turns out that
>>it's a Z-28, a 1970 1/2 or 1971 vintage
>
>Yup, it was his dads "Shootin Car". :)
>
Only 3 payments left & it's theirs. Sounds too familiar.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 09:36:32 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: pondering the ignition advance.

>So, when you hear your engine pinging, it is quite often because of
>preignition.  To alleviate this,  one can often retard the timing a bit.
>Now, I have realized that this goes against my current logic abilities.
>Preignition is when the a/f mixture self ingites prior to the spark, yes?
> So, if I adavance the spark timing, the spark will fire sooner, and
>properly combust the mixture before it gets a chance to do it.  Why,
>then, are preignition problems more prevailant the sooner the spark is
>fires.  Something just doesn't make sense here.  Could it be because the
>increase in combustion chamber temperature increases at a faster rate
>than the actual advancing of the timing?  Experts?
>
>Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
>                        Bucks County, PA
Is this really a Karl Aune question?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 09:18:00 -0500
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: installing rear main seal

Todd Morris wrote:
>
> I'm replacing my rear main seal, both upper and lower seals, and am facing a
> dilemna.  The shop manual clearly says to apply sealant to the *ends* of the
> rope seal, as well as the small area of the main bearing cap next to the 
seal.
> The Olds FAQ also agrees with this view.   However, the directions from 
FelPro
> and I think someone on this list, say *never* to apply sealant to the ends of
> the seal, I think because the crank can catch the RTV, pull it around and 
off,
> thus botching the whole job.  Any opinions?
>
> Todd Morris
> 71 442


Todd,

  I've never used RTV on the ends of my rope seals(Ford, Pontiac, Chevy,
..total of about 30 rebuilds).  I'm not saying that it is wrong, but
I've never done it and have never had a problem with leakage yet.  I'd
be paranoid about sealant particles getting caught-up with the rotation
of the crank. Also, there's enough "squish" between the ends when the
main cap is torqued down not to need added sealing.  Alternatively, you
could go to NAPA and buy a 1 piece 460 FORD rear main seal like so many
list members have toughted.  I'll probably go this route this winter
when I rebuild my 425.  Good luck.

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 10:44:02 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: pondering the ignition advance.

In a message dated 9/29/98
 9:<BR31:<BR17 AM Central Daylight Tim, hitson@i1.net writes:

>  Why,
>  >then, are preignition problems more prevailant the sooner the spark is
>  >fires.  Something just doesn't make sense here.  Could it be because the
>  >increase in combustion chamber temperature increases at a faster rate
>  >than the actual advancing of the timing?  Experts?

No expert here, just an ex-motorcycle road racer who had this to contend with
in the 60s. To understand the causes, you have to take your thinking back
before the event in question. Go back to the point that your engine isn't hot
yet, so you aren't pre-igniting.

If your timing is too advanced, you are burning the mixture too soon, causing
extra heat to be generated in a bunch of different ways (I'll expand this if
necessary, but I think it is self-evident???). Sooner or later, something in
the combustion chamber gets hot enough to set off the mixture *before* the
spark fires; OR, the whole combustion area gets hot enough to set the charge
off by compression ignition.

Now, you're clattering like crazy and heat is continuing to build. If the
situation is bad enough, you can have thermal runaway and melt piston crowns.
Usually, the engine will go in and out of critical and you just erode the
pistons and hammer the bearings.

The secret in this case, is to never build enough heat to start the
preignition. However, you have to figure out if it is carbon in the c-chamber
doing the deed or if you have too much compression, insufficient swirl, poor
carburetion, bad manifold design, or a number of other problems. You are
really lucky if it requires *only* a few degrees of retardation. Please
remember, the better your breathing is (generally, and with C.R. equal) the
less advance the engine requires.

Also remember, it is the *engine* that has a requirement for advance....not
some books or our own prejudice :-) Give the engine what it *asks* for.

Cheers/Carron
waiting for the *real* experts to inveigh :-)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 09:45:15 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: installing rear main seal

Don't go with the rope main seal. They tend to be leaky. Go with the one
MOndello sells which is a Neoprene Rear Main Seal. It is actually a Ford
seal but work awesome on the Olds. It has 100% better sealing
characteristics and lasts longer.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: installing rear main seal
> Date: Tuesday, September 29, 1998 8:58 AM
>
> I'm replacing my rear main seal, both upper and lower seals, and am
facing a
> dilemna.  The shop manual clearly says to apply sealant to the *ends* of
the
> rope seal, as well as the small area of the main bearing cap next to the
seal.
> The Olds FAQ also agrees with this view.   However, the directions from
FelPro
> and I think someone on this list, say *never* to apply sealant to the
ends of
> the seal, I think because the crank can catch the RTV, pull it around and
off,
> thus botching the whole job.  Any opinions?
>
> Todd Morris
> 71 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 09:56:31 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: installing rear main seal

>I'm replacing my rear main seal<snipped>
>.  Any opinions?
>
>Todd Morris
>71 442


Yeah. Don't use the stupid rope seal. Buy a rubber/neopren or whatever kind.
Easier to install, work better, last longer. But then I'm opinionated.

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 10:47:54 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: G body ~true duals~

In a message dated 98-09-28 23:57:29 EDT, you write:

(A G body to duals)

<< But your living proof that it canissed somet be done, unless i mhing about
your engine in an earlier post. >>

Uh... ?

I assume you mean me.

Well, you see, what is important is the emmission control devices that came on
the car from the factory.

Those that came with the car can NOT be altered. That includes elimination AND
augmentation.

The EPA forced carmaker techs to design the Catalytic system to have exactly a
certain amount of emissions, which depended on what year it was.

What I learned is that while can add two, because there are NO emissions
requirements on my 1965 car. People who have one CANNOT add a second because
it would change the characteristics of the exhaust gas flow (temp, pressure,
volume, speed) as it reaches the Cats. Those were the factors considered when
your original Cat was designed. The EPA feels that altering that delicate
balance...

(HAH!! I kill me!)

...could actually worsen your emmisions, rather than maintaining, or improving
on the  emmission specifications of the original design.

That is my interpretation anyway.

I have recieved a responce to a specific question on that topic, which I will
post if it proves interesting.

No Dualies For You!!

(The exhaust Nazis!!)

heh

SOM

&KA

(wow, I can almost sit up under here!)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 11:01:22 EDT
From: DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com
Subject: Found '73 Cutlass MINT with 8900 miles covered in vasoline!!!!

if you love the stories about people finding cars that have been stored for
years and found in mint condition,, youll love this,, member of our club found
a 73 Cutlass "S"
at an estate sale covered in vasoline with 8900 miles,,, everything is like
new and bought it for a VERY good price,,, still has window sticker on it,,,
very rare car,, 455 4 speed,, white with a painted red top,, if you want to
read more and see the pictures of it please visit our web site
http://members.aol.com/cutlascoup/index.html
go to the "Members Garage" and look at the white Cutlass "S"
thanks Jeffrey Fieldsend
Board of Director OCC- Oldsmobile Cutlass Coupes 73-77

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 11:04:20 -0400
From: "Mark Thurman" <Thurman@kvnet.org>
Subject: Fw: 442 Dash

You wrote:
- -Subject: 442 Dash
- -I am about to remove the dash from my 70 442 for paint, rechrome, etc.  Has
- -anyone done this and have any tips other than don't do it, as that is what
I
- -am thinking after looking the project over?  Are there any diagrams
available?
- -Does anyone have one already pulled out that might be for sale?
- -Thanks,
- -Dan442Olds@aol.com

If you're referring to the dash pad, the service manual shows 4 screws (2
middle top, 1 on each side) but I seem to recall the dash pad having 6
screws (2 middle top and 2 on each side) but it's been a while since I
disassembled this, it's not bad if there's nothing living under the dash (as
was my case).  If you want the picture from the manual, email me privately
Thurman@kvnet.org (I'm only on the digest due to my ISP) and I'll scan it &
send it - will take me a few days though.....mt

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 10:12:23 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Re: 350 Buildup

RANDY A GEISEL wrote:
>
> >Then I would go for a good cam. Anything about 270 is outragous for a small
> block.a 268 comp cams will be real radical in the 350,
>
> I gotta disagree........I'm running Comps 280H in a 350 and it runs great.
>
> Randy


Same here, I am running the 270H in my 350 and I drive daily no problem.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 10:14:03 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Re: Octane requirements

Ray Costanzo wrote:
>
> Anyone out there who is running 10.5:1 compression at 180 degree engine
> temperature, what octane does your car ask of you?
>
> Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
>                         Bucks County, PA
> -
>
> ___________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]


I have a set of Speed Pro 10.5:1 forged pistons, and my headas were
shaved .005", but with a thicker head gaskets and a valve job, I suspect
I am running closer to 10.0:1. I run 93 octance with 16deg of initial
timing and 40deg total timing without any pinging.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 10:19:59 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: Octane requirements

I have a 67 Cutlass with a 10.25:1 330.
The piston are factory and I believe the engine was
once ringed;never-the-less,the cylinder pressure is still consistent in
all 8. So, with my 280 comp cam,MSD billet distributor, msd 6AL, Taylor
10.5mm wires (55ohms/ft of resistance), msd Blaster coil 3, 1 3/4 headers
(headman), stock heads, Bausch platinums I can run 89 octane.  In the
absolute hottest conditions  (Texas heat 105°) it will ping at about 5000
rpm with 15 degree initial advance and 35 total.

>Brett Wilson

- -----Original Message-----
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@wans.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, September 29, 1998 10:09 AM
Subject: Re: Octane requirements


>Ray Costanzo wrote:
>>
>> Anyone out there who is running 10.5:1 compression at 180 degree engine
>> temperature, what octane does your car ask of you?
>>
>> Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
>>                         Bucks County, PA
>> -
>>
>> ___________________________________________________________________
>> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
>
>I have a set of Speed Pro 10.5:1 forged pistons, and my headas were
>shaved .005", but with a thicker head gaskets and a valve job, I suspect
>I am running closer to 10.0:1. I run 93 octance with 16deg of initial
>timing and 40deg total timing without any pinging.
>
>Stephen Hoover
>Dallas, Texas
>'70 Supreme
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 10:21:52 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: Octane requirements

errrr
Forgot,  my engine runs at 180-190 in the heat.
It will also not ping under any conditions with 93 octane.
>Brett

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 10:38:25 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Joe (Buy a 455) Padavano


Dufous question du jour:

Got any tips on how to go about finding a garden variety 455 in good working
order?

I live in a small town. The only junk yard around here that has anything
older than 1980 is operated by people who may eventually end up in a
correctional center.(They are not nice to do business with and can not be
trusted. Besides, they gouge anyone they think they can.)

tia
roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 11:46:44 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Octane requirements

In a message, you guys wrote:

<< I use 93 octane national brand fuels (Chevron, Shell, Texaco) in my 10.5 to
 1 425 cid  66 Toro and 67 Delta Custom with  a 180 degree tstat.  Also in my
 10.25 442.  Peter.

 >Anyone out there who is running 10.5:1 compression at 180 degree engine
 >temperature, what octane does your car ask of you? >>

I have been using gasoline labelled as 92 and 93 Octane for a while. While my
odometer (next project) was working I noticed that higher octane in my 10.25:1
425cid gave me better mpg. Of course, back then I was paying such gas prices
that I was tempted to rethink in terms of miles per dollar.....NAH!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 11:47:25 -0400
From: "Steve C" <cutlass@citlink.net>
Subject: Re: '87 Olds Stock Engine

The Vin Code Y is for a Olds 307. There are a couple of ways you can tell
what motor you have. If it is indeed an Olds motor it will have the oil
filler tube in front of the intake manifold just above the water pump. It
will also have a return from the thermostat housing to the water pump. Now
in order to tell what year the motor is a fairley accurate way is to find
out what heads are on the car. My 1985 Olds 442 has the 5A heads. All 1987
Olds have the 7A heads. This stamp is on either head look above number 1
spark plug. Hope this helped you


Steve C
- -----Original Message-----
From: David Harms <dph0569@flash.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 28, 1998 5:57 PM
Subject: '87 Olds Stock Engine


>Hi, i recently bought an '87 olds 2 door cutlass salon, and am having some
>trouble determining the engine that is in it.
>
>I've talked to some people on the internet and we all THINK it is a 307, i
>know for sure that it is 5.0L v8.  The thing is something weird happened, i
>wanted to buy an aluminum Intake Manifold for it, but edelbrocks (#3711)
>are listed for '85 & earlier, so i called up summit to see if they could
>give me a reason why it wouldn't fit a '87 307, they told me it was because
>olds switched to center bolt valve covers that year so it wouldn't fit, i
>went out side to check my engine, and welp No center bolts =], and some
>guys on the internet agreed, they had never seen and olds with center
>bolts, just SBC's.  So my question remains, do i in fact have a Olds 307,
>and if so who makes performance parts that will fit that year?
>
>O yeah the 8th digit of my vin number is a Y in case it helps
>
>Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> -Thanks
> -David

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 10:56:50 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: W-35 : Yes or No

I have a 72 442 Conv't and am considering placing the decklid spoiler when
I repaint the car. 2 questions:

1> Should I put the spoiler on, does it look better with it on a
convertible?

2> Was there a different sized wing for the convertible?

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 11:54:17 -0400
From: "Steve C" <cutlass@citlink.net>
Subject: Re: blowby

Change the PCV valve
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Olson <jolson@remcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 28, 1998 7:53 PM
Subject: blowby


>A car I just bought has SERIOUS blowby. Short of pulling the head and
>pistons, is there any way to try to stop this? The motor doesn't make
>any strange noises, so it doesn't sound like anything broke, but I've
>never seen an engine blow smoke & a bit of oil out the dipstick tube
>before.
>
>I've changed the PCV valve, just in case. Same results.
>
>Jim...
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 08:59:05 -0700
From: "WI02 Rutschmann Brandon M. AO2" <BRutschm@vinson.navy.mil>
Subject: Valve cover gasket recomendations

 I am going to change my original valve cover gaskets on my 71 350.  I
was just wondering if any one had any recommendations on which
particular brand to use and their experience with each.  Thank you
Brandon 71 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 09:14:04 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Hallmark '69 H/O Ornaments

> Since they're "Hallmark's" wouldn't they be orderable through any
> Hallmark location?

Not if they're discontinued, and I think these are discontinued.
You can at least look at a picture of it on Hallmark's web page.
Try this link:

http://www.hallmark.com/ornaments_bin/dreambook/product.asp?Orn=1395QX6102

(Note: If this link is broken, do a Search on their page under
1997 ornaments.)
- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 12:46:39 EDT
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: Joe (Buy a 455) Padavano

Joe, where are you located at? Know of a couple motors for sale, let me know
chris

Chris Sommerville
69 442 SC
70 442 HC
70 W31
AND LOTS OF PARTS FOR SALE!!!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 12:44:48 EDT
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Everyone lists their cars

In a message dated 9/29/98 2:12:09 AM Eastern Daylight Time, ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
writes:

<<
 1961 Starfire Conv	
 1971 Cut Sup Conv
 1972 Cut Sup Coupe 3 spd on column
 1987 Ciera Sedan
 1989 Touring Sedan 145,000 miles
 1992 Cut Sup Conv
 1990 Olds Bravada Pick/up (S10  conversion)

 Everett   OCA# 1961
  >>
I can't believe I left off  my Vista Cruiser, just got an e-mail from Greg
Beaulieu asking if I sold it.

so in addition to the above list

1971 Vista Cruiser  455  4bbl  A/C  tilt  w/ two tone paint


Everett   OCA# 1961

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 09:28:35 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: GN Guy, wanting OLDS PARTS for a Bu-ick....

in Fairfield CA there is a shop called Nor-Cal automotive they have a set
for about 250.00 I think they are listed in the book so you could give them
a call if your interested.......kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: JJP442@aol.com <JJP442@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 28, 1998 10:21 PM
Subject: Re: GN Guy, wanting OLDS PARTS for a Bu-ick....


>GN guy,
>Good luck finding Lightning Rods. I've got an extra set that I won't part
>with. I can't even put a price on them. Was thinking of putting them in my
87
>442. If I were to sell It definitly would go to the highest bidder.
>Good luck
>John-Queens N.Y.
>JJP442@aol.com
>1983 H/O
>1987 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 12:59:35 -0400
From: Mike.Blankenship@medaphis.com (Blankenship, Mike)
Subject: 4 speed tunnel

Does anyone have or had a factory 70-72 Cutlass/442 bench seat 4 speed   car?
Did the factory use the same tunnel for console and bench seat or   is it
different?  Does the bench seat shifter dogleg like the console   shifter or is
it straighter?

Thanks

Mike
66 442
70 442 W30
70 GTO Judge RAIV
71 442 Convt
71 Cutlass S
72 442 Convt

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 09:42:40 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket recomendations

fel-pro are the only gaskets I ever use they have a neoprene vc set and it
works quite well....kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: WI02 Rutschmann Brandon M. AO2 <BRutschm@vinson.navy.mil>
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, September 29, 1998 9:12 AM
Subject: Valve cover gasket recomendations


> I am going to change my original valve cover gaskets on my 71 350.  I
>was just wondering if any one had any recommendations on which
>particular brand to use and their experience with each.  Thank you
>Brandon 71 Cutlass Supreme
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1515
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