Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
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cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1592


oldsmobile-digest      Friday, November 6 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1592



Re: 403 vs 307 HO Best heads???
Re: Interior Vinyl Paint
Re: More Quadrajet Questions
Re: Speechless Rocket talk
pre-fab flowmaster system: was Re: Olds EFI + Headers
Exhaust solution
non olds but very funny
Re: Exhaust solution
Re: Gear Ratios
Re: Exhaust Pipe Expander??
Re: Another Q-Jet question
Re: Exhaust Pipe Expander??
Re: Exhaust Pipe Expander??
Non-Olds:  Useful Info for Speeding Tickets
Re: Non-Olds: Useful Info for Speeding Tickets
Re: New Olds Web Page!
Re: Non-Olds: Useful Info for Speeding Tickets
Re: Exhaust solution
Re: Non-Olds: Useful Info for Speeding Tickets
Re: Non-Olds: Useful Info for Speeding Tickets
Re: Interior Vinyl Paint
Re: Exhaust Pipe Expander??
S-S-S-SMOKINNNNN'!!!!!!
RE: Exhaust Pipe Expander??
Re: Non-Olds:  Useful Info for Speeding Tickets long
Re: Non-Olds: Useful Info for Speeding Tickets
Re: pre-fab flowmaster system: was Re: Olds EFI + Head
Re: GK cam choice
Re: S-S-S-SMOKINNNNN'!!!!!!
RE: New Olds Web Page!
plug wires
Re: old  mi license plates
RE: S-S-S-SMOKINNNNN'!!!!!!
Re: plug wires
Re: Non-Olds: Useful Info for Speeding Tickets
Re: no heat
Date:	Fri, 6 Nov 1998 16:22:59 -0500
Re: 403 vs 307 HO Best heads???
Fwd: 65 330 Cam
Re: plug wires
Re: Childs&Albert Gapless Rings
Re: plug wires
Re: Olds EFI + Headers
Re: pre-fab flowmaster system: was Re: Olds EFI + Headers
Re: Speechless Rocket talk
Re: no heat
Re: Exhaust Pipe Expander??
Re: plug wires
New Member/please help
Re: wmachine; there are real racers here

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 07:19:32 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: 403 vs 307 HO Best heads???

- -----Original Message-----
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com <RCKTPWR@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, November 05, 1998 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: 403 vs 307 HO Best heads???


>Are the 5a's better than the 4's that r on it now??
>Bernie


5a's from a 350 are reputed to be one of the best flowing heads made. 5A's
from a 307 prolly wouldn't flow any better than the 4's. Both will increase
comp ratio on the 403 by about 1.5 points.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 07:20:27 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Interior Vinyl Paint

>Does anyone know where s a good place to get interioir vinyl spray paint? I
>know Year One sells it but they are quite expensive...
>
I've seen stuff like that at big auto parts stores like Parts America.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 07:25:30 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: More Quadrajet Questions

>  Many times symptoms of other problems are blamed on a
>carburetor.

Ain't that the truth.

>Also ensure the carb is plugged in.  There are a couple small wire
>harnesses on the carb.  One comes from the ECM and and the other plugs into
the
>throttle position sensor

Both go to the ECM. If the carb is disconnected or malfunctioning, the ECM
will store an error code in it's internal memory. Use the diagnostic test
function to retrieve any error codes that might be there. It can tell you a
lot about what's up with the motor.

Mail me direct if you need instructions for doing that.

drc

david.cullen@snet.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 07:28:41 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Speechless Rocket talk

>Parachat appears to be having kittens tonight, so the server's locked up.
I'm
>assuming that's the case, 'cuz it ain't working!  <snip>

>By the way, was ~anyone~ able to log on tonight?  Or is it locked up
completely?
>
>Oldsmagnet -

Yup. About 6-7 of us were there. Altho ~my~ system crash & burned
unexpectedly during chat. (Sorry fellas, I wasn't being rude when I left)

drc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 06:42:34 -0500
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: pre-fab flowmaster system: was Re: Olds EFI + Headers

>The rest is a 2.5" Flowmaster a-body exhaust kit with their mufflers.
>
>Shane Gibreal
>
Shane,  How did the flowmaster kit fit in the car?  Was it an easy to
do bolt on operation or require a welder and engineering degree?
Where do the tips of the pipes come out?

thanks,
greg

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 08:25:41 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Exhaust solution

I know that some of us have found it difficult at best to install true dual
exhaust on catalyst equipped cars, but there may be a solution.  Last night
while reading the latest Street Rodder magazine I find an article showing a
system where you pre form your pipe shape with wire reinforced tubing
and expandable foam.  Then you mail it back to the company and they computer
scan your templates and bend pipe for you.  Once the new tubing arrives you
install it yourself.  Talk about a neat way to get past the catalytic
converter issue!  Of course your system would not be "legal" and I am sure if
the company asked what year of car this was being used on, you would say a pre
75, but it would allow you to have duals that fit the car.  I managed to leave
the issue at home this morning, but I will bring it in on Monday and post the
info on the company.  If you can't wait, go to the news stand and buy a copy
for yourself.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 10:02:38 EST
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: non olds but very funny

How do you vote?

A college information science professor at the U.S. Naval Academy in
Annapolis, Maryland was very aware that throughout history ships 
have been addressed as "she" and "her."  Based on that nautical 
experience, he often wondered what gender computers should be 
addressed.  
To answer that question, he set up two control groups of computer 
experts.  The first was comprised of women, and the second of men.

Each group was asked to study the issue and then recommend whether
computers should be referred to in the feminine gender, or the 
masculine gender.  In support of that endeavor, each panel was asked 
to give four reasons for their recommendation.

The group of women reported that the computers should be referred to in
the masculine gender because:
  1. In order to get their attention, you have to turn them on.
  2. They have a lot of data but are still clueless.
  3. They are supposed to help you solve problems, but half the time they
       are the problem.
  4. As soon as you commit to one, you realize that, if you had waited a
       little longer you could have had a better model.

The men, on the other hand, concluded that computers should be referred
to in the feminine gender because:
  1. No one but the Creator understands their internal logic.
  2. The native language they use to communicate with other computers is
       incomprehensible to everyone else.
  3. Even your smallest mistakes are stored in long-term memory for later
      retrieval.
  4. As soon as you make a commitment to one, you find yourself spending
       half your paycheck on accessories.

here is the olds content my 82 cutlass supreme now has the entire brake system
brand new and springs, shocks, tires, rims       and if anyone knows where I
can get door sill plates for the bottoms of the doors in the 2 door cutlass
preferrably new without costing to much email me   thanks
													
Rich		

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 07:30:09 -0800
From: "John Young" <realtorjohn@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust solution

David (et all), The company that does this is Stainless Works, 9989 E.
Washington St.,Chagrin Falls OH 44023   800 878-3635
realtorjohn@sprynet.com

- ----------
> From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
> 
> I know that some of us have found it difficult at best to install true
dual
> exhaust on catalyst equipped cars, but there may be a solution.  Last
night
> while reading the latest Street Rodder magazine I find an article showing
a
> system where you pre form your pipe shape with wire reinforced tubing
> and expandable foam.  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 10:44:37 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Gear Ratios

I HAD a 2.56 anti spin in my '75. They were made fairly commonly.

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Comid <Comid>
Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 4:01 PM
Subject: Re: Gear Ratios


>
>Received: from halifax.chebucto.ns.ca [192.75.95.75] by jellico.com with
smtp
> id BAAACDFE ; Tue, 3 Nov 1998 16:00:46 -0500
>Received: by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca id <36633-12278>; Tue, 3 Nov 1998
16:59:26 -0400
>Received: from relay9.uu.net ([192.48.96.85]:1274 "EHLO relay9.uu.net"
ident: "NO-IDENT-SERVICE") by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca with ESMTP id
<35986-12276>; Tue, 3 Nov 1998 16:59:22 -0400
>Received: from webserve0.uu.net by relay9.uu.net with ESMTP
> (peer crosschecked as: webserve0.uu.net [153.39.49.229])
> id QQfnyh29258; Tue, 3 Nov 1998 15:58:41 -0500 (EST)
>Received: by webserve0.uu.net
> id QQfnyh03643; Tue, 3 Nov 1998 15:58:21 -0500 (EST)
>From: dsenko@UU.NET (Drew Senko)
>Message-Id: <QQfnyh03643.199811032058@webserve0.uu.net>
>Subject: Re: Gear Ratios
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca (olds)
>Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 15:58:21 -0500 (EST)
>Organization: MCI/WorldCom Advanced Networks
>X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.4 PL25]
>X-Orcpt: rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h
chebucto.ns.ca oldsmobile-mml"
>Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>> According to my Cars & Parts 442 book:
>>
>> Code                    Ratio                   Anti-spin
>> R2                      2.56                    X
>> R3                      2.56
>> SA                      2.73
>> SB                      2.73                    X
>> SD                      3.08                    X
>> SE                      3.42
>> SH                      3.42                    X
>> SR                      3.23
>> SS                      3.23                    X
>> TM                      3.42                    X
>> TO                      3.73                    X
>
>
>R2 is anti-spin?  I'll have to check my manuals.  I'm pretty
>sure my 71 has R2 stamped on it, and I don't think it's an anti-spin
>rear end.  It doesn't even seem possible, or at least feasible.  Do
>you know how hard it is to spin wheels with a 2.56??!
>
>By the way, I can recommend a lot of things in this world, but 2.56
>isn't one of them.  They do great on the highway, but I bet that 2.73
>or 3.08 is just as good, while still feeling like a V8 around town.
>
>--                     ______________                     _
>Drew Senko            / Convertibles \                    |\
>dsenko@uu.net         \_____Rule!____/     .__====-_._____|_\______
>Vienna, VA, USA                     O      [   ___  |-     |  ___  \
>http://members.aol.com/drewinva       o o  =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)
>_______________________________________________\_/____________\_/_____
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 10:55:20 -0500 (EST)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Pipe Expander??

Among the innumerable catalogs I receive I recall seeing someone offering 
a mandrel (bolt operated) for expanding the ends of exhaust pipes.. Now, no 
can find.  
Anyone recall seeing this item? I need to fix my 3" true duals on the 
Cutlass.

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio 
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets  
  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 11:09:24 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Another Q-Jet question

In a message dated 98-11-05 14:58:11 EST, you write:

<< >Does anyone know what the smallest Q-jet was ever made? CFM wise. How
 >can you tell what CFM your carb flows besides putting it on a flow gauge?
 >==
 I  don't   ~know~  but have read that essentailly all Q-jets are 750 or 800 
 cfm, & that the 800 cfm models came on 71-73 Buicks & 73 Pontiacs. >>

ROE: 800cfm primary venturii diam. is 1&7/32"
     750cfm primary diam. is 1&3/32"

4/32 is only 1/8" difference!
Tough to eyeball?

Not so bad really!

Venturii is narrowest part of the bore.
With Q-jet nozzles being so big, it is actualy easy.

The narrower venturii pasage can be spotted visibly and in the 750 cfm models
is a rounded constriction that goes from the widest part of the bore to about
a halfway point from the bore wall to the edge of the nozzle.

The 800cfm venturii isnt nearly that big!

Further, the 800cfm carb in the illustration that Karl has shows a bulge in
the venturii where the bore nears the left (and right?) sides of the carb!

From that I can tell that the Qjet Karl recently recieved is a 750cfm!

(Finally, a new (old) toy to dissect!!!)

In closing: buy "Rochester Carburetors" by Doug Roe!


SOM

&KA
ICQ #20414415
http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 11:06:55 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Pipe Expander??

> Among the innumerable catalogs I receive I recall seeing someone offering
> a mandrel (bolt operated) for expanding the ends of exhaust pipes.. Now, no
> can find.
> Anyone recall seeing this item?

        Believe it or not, I've seen them at Sears in the automotive tool
section.

> --

Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 11:28:39 -0500
From: Brian Kerr <bkerr@golden.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Pipe Expander??

Most automotive supply/tool places should have or be able to get it.

bjkerr

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 13:02:02 -0500
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Non-Olds:  Useful Info for Speeding Tickets

Hi all, got this in the e-mail box, dunno if it's true, but it
sounds Intrigue-ing...
       ^^^^^^^^
       Olds content :)

Happy Weekend!

Tim Churchill  tchurchill@draper.com  OCA #30327  Framingham, MA
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, new a.k.a 'Old Gold'
'98 VW Passat GLS Wagon, a.k.a. 'der Kinderwagen'

- ----- Begin Included Message -----

Useful Info for Speeding Tickets

I tried to pass this on to anyone I could think of.  I know
for a fact that this works so if you ever get in this situation, you
have an out.  This procedure works in any state. Read it and try it,
you have nothing to loose but the points in your license.

If you get a speeding ticket or went through a red light or
whatever the case may be, and you are going to get points on your
license, then there is a method to ensure that you DO NOT get any
points.  When you get your fine, send in the check to pay for it and if
the fine is say $79, then make the check out for $82 or some small
amount above the fine. The system will then have to send you back a
check for the difference, but here is the trick! ---DO NOT CASH THE
CHECK!!  Throw it away!  Points are not assessed to your license until
all the financial transactions are complete. If you do not cash the
check, then the transactions are not complete. However the system has
gotten its money so it is happy and will not bother you any more.

SOURCE: Thoonen Production Administrator RACV Touring Publications.


- ----- End Included Message -----

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 13:07:28 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Non-Olds: Useful Info for Speeding Tickets

Useful Info for Speeding Tickets

<snip stuff I hope is true...>
_________

Paging Mr. Green...Paging Mr. Green...

Is this real or an urban myth?

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 13:07:35 EST
From: "Norm Baier" <nbaier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: New Olds Web Page!

Blaine,

Very nice page. I'm also keen on the 71s and 72s. 

Norm Baier
Woodstock, GA
72 Cutlass Supreme Convt.

- ----Original Message Follows----
From:	"B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
To:	<oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: New Olds Web Page!
Date:	Wed, 4 Nov 1998 17:44:19 -0700
Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

I finally got my web page complete enough that I don't have to be
embarrassed about it.  So I guess it's finally time to unveil it to
Oldsmoland.
<snipped>

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 10:13:36 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds: Useful Info for Speeding Tickets

> Hi all, got this in the e-mail box, dunno if it's true, but it
> sounds Intrigue-ing...
>        ^^^^^^^^
> Olds content :)

*chuckle*  *snort*  :-)

>> When you get your fine, send in the check to pay for it and
>> if the fine is say $79, then make the check out for $82 or
>> some small amount above the fine. The system will then have
>> to send you back a check for the difference, but here is the
>> trick! ---DO NOT CASH THE CHECK!!  Throw it away!  Points are
>> not assessed to your license until all the financial transactions
>> are complete.

I think the State of Illinois may be way ahead of you there. For
many years their paperwork has had a blurb on it that said something
like "Your signature allows the Secretary of State to lower the amount
of your check if necessary" or something like that. I always wondered 
why they said that; I figured it was just to catch the bozos who paid 
their tax returns with checks for "ONE MILLION DOLLARS", but maybe 
you've found another reason for them to say that.

- -- Andy


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 13:25:44 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: Exhaust solution

Thanks for sharing the info John.  Now I don't have to remember to bring in
the magazine.  Everyone else, check these folks out.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 13:54:09 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds: Useful Info for Speeding Tickets

Padavano.Joe@orbital.com wrote:
> 
> Useful Info for Speeding Tickets
> 
> <snip stuff I hope is true...>
> _________
> 
> Paging Mr. Green...Paging Mr. Green...
> 
> Is this real or an urban myth?

I've seen this come in from a couple other car lists that I'm on.  Most
people on those lists seemed to vote for the myth.  I would suspect most
places would 1. deposit the check 2. send a refund for the difference 3.
escrow the excess 4. donate the excess to a charity or 5. pocket the
difference as a tip.  

Let me put it this way.  I wouldn't want to bet my insurance record on
it without PERSONALLY knowing someone that it worked for.  Besides, I am
not all that sure that the insurance companies check the records every
year unless you give them other reasons to, i.e., accidents, changing
companies, etc.  Just my take as I have been lucky to not have had this
problem for 25 years or so.  If I could just get my daughters to slow
down, stop at red lights, .............

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 12:56:49 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds: Useful Info for Speeding Tickets

SOrry, First of all, as it IS non-olds, except that: Wouldn't owners of
beautiful Olsdmobile Cruising machines be more prone to speeding
tickets??

Stale-dated cheques??  After 6 months, woudln't the cheque be
stale-dated, transaction finished, and points added to license?

On Olds note: Looking for personal thoughts on POR15, thinking of
getting some, email private if you have any useful info, thanx...

Eric
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/gobstop.shtml <-- needs some POR15

> I think the State of Illinois may be way ahead of you there. For
> many years their paperwork has had a blurb on it that said something
> like "Your signature allows the Secretary of State to lower the amount
> of your check if necessary" or something like that. I always wondered
> why they said that; I figured it was just to catch the bozos who paid
> their tax returns with checks for "ONE MILLION DOLLARS", but maybe
> you've found another reason for them to say that.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 13:13:31 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Interior Vinyl Paint

Peter, 
try Eastwood at 800-345-1178 or www.eastwoodco.com
Lou                                                                        
                                                                           
     lbiggs@intertek.net
- ----------
> From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Interior Vinyl Paint
> Date: Friday, November 06, 1998 1:34 AM
> 
> Does anyone know where s a good place to get interioir vinyl spray paint?
I

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 13:32:54 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Pipe Expander??

Al,
have one in the shop, can't remember where it came from. Check with local
muffler shop, they might still use them.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
- ----------
> From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Exhaust Pipe Expander??
> Date: Friday, November 06, 1998 9:55 AM

> Among the innumerable catalogs I receive I recall seeing someone offering

> a mandrel (bolt operated) for expanding the ends of exhaust pipes.. Now,
no 
> can find.  
> Anyone recall seeing this item? I need to fix my 3" true duals on the 
> Cutlass.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 14:04:44 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: S-S-S-SMOKINNNNN'!!!!!!

I have mentioned before that my '84 307 is producing a lot of smoke due to
motor oil on the passenger's exhaust manifold.  I have done some
"experiments" to look into this, as well as remembered a key bit of info
that I had previously forgotten, and I would very much like anyone and
everyone to offer any suggestions/comments they may have.

1.  I am REASONABLY certain that the only oil leak in the car is coming
from the passenger's valve cover, right above #5 cylinder (farthest
forward, passenger side).  I was concerned that oil was shooting out from
around the oil pan gasket, or possibly the rear main seal (both of which
have been replaced, the gasket actually twice)...

2.  ...so I put the car up on ramps and cleaned the whole underside of the
motor with Gunk.  There was a lot of oil on the crossmember, crossover
pipe, and manifold...but all on the passenger side.  I let the Gunk sit for
a while, hosed it off, started it...OK, it produced a little bit of smoke
after running for about 5 minutes, but after 10 minutes of smoke it CEASED.
 What I mean is, with the car up on ramps and stationary (you'd hope,
right?), there is no oil sneaking up (actually down) onto the manifold.

3.  So I took it off the ramps, and drove around the neighborhood.  Come to
rest in front of the house, and GLORY BE!  Smoke off the manifold.  Put it
back up on ramps, and the oil pan/flywheel are still clean of oil...smoke
is definately on the manifold, and PROBABLY coming from the valve cover.

4.  OK, so the key bit of information that I had forgotten - When I was
jacking around with something under there (I don't even remeber what it was
at this point) I took off the piece of black "tar paper" (it was in my way)
that seemed to be designed to keep dirt (OIL?????) off the ???
(MANIFOLD???).  The driver's side tar paper is still there...but then again
I can see the edges of that valve cover a lot easier, and I KNOW that one
doesn't leak.

So...I guess my question is, "Should I EXPECT oil on the manifold with that
tar paper missing?".  Also, "Why would the oil only make it to the manifold
when the car was moving?"

One more - "WHY IN THE NAME OF _ANYTHING_ DID THEY MAKE IT SO _FRIGGIN'_
DIFFICULT TO GET THE PASSENGER'S VALVE COVER OFF?".

TIA,
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 15:08:10 -0500
From: "<GJC> Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Exhaust Pipe Expander??

OK Al. I have listed in the current J. C. Whitney catalog # 619J, on page
180, Two sized of "tailpipe Stretchers" (their reference name)

The 1-5/8" to 2-7/16", (41.3-61.9mm) as part # 12NL4210X. the price is
$16.99

The 2-3/8" to 3-1/4", (60.3-80.9mm) as part # 12NL4211N. the price is $29.99

These are as you described. Round with sections like cutting a pie and a
bolt/color setup through the center that when tightened, expands the slices
out to re-round/expand the exhaust pipe end.

You can call (312) 431-6102 to order using the above info and a credit
card... No credit card will requiring calling above to assess shipping costs
to your location to place a written order.

Hope this helps....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
 Purling, N.Y.
 12470-9709

ICQ# 5209322
 CC-IROC-SS
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

Couse Custom Cutlass,
'86 CC-IROC-SS-#1 = "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/~cousecustoms/

Join Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List -
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody

Once a member, post to:
mailto:olds_gbody@listbot.com


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of The Viking
Sent: Friday, November 06, 1998 10:55 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Exhaust Pipe Expander??



Among the innumerable catalogs I receive I recall seeing someone offering
a mandrel (bolt operated) for expanding the ends of exhaust pipes.. Now, no
can find.
Anyone recall seeing this item? I need to fix my 3" true duals on the
Cutlass.

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 15:07:55 EST
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: Re: Non-Olds:  Useful Info for Speeding Tickets long

I tried it once the ticket was for not stoping at a stop sign it was $78.  I
mailed the check out a couple of weeks later and without looking at the ticket
again I wrote the check for $87.   5 months down the road I got a check from
them for $9 had no clue why.  Then I read the letter it came with it explained
why I got the letter and what the check was for.  I lost the check 2 years ago
I had 2 points on my license when I got the ticket so that would have been the
3rd and I would of had to goto a drivers retraining class.  But I never had to
go and then i heard about this little rumer that was going around about paying
a little over the amount of the ticket.  So I called up to see how many points
I had on my license and there were none and I figured that it had actually
worked because after three years from getting the point it gets erased so it
used to work dont know about now though.  But it worked for me once so I was
happy.

									Rich

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 12:04:01 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds: Useful Info for Speeding Tickets

> Paging Mr. Green...Paging Mr. Green...
>
> Is this real or an urban myth?

Okay, okay, the consensus seems to be that it's an urban legend.
We can say a little more authoritatively that it won't work in
Illinois, at any rate.

The most recent sighting of this spring up on October 16, when
it triggered a thread a mile long in alt.folklore.urban under
the title of "New! Erase points from speeding tickets". You can
slog through it at http://www.dejanews.com if you feel so inclined,
but here's an excerpt:

> Good call looking up the NJ page. That's another fishy thing about
> this one - the person didn't say in which state he/she got the
> ticket!  Have you ever seen the Feds handing out speeding tickets?
>
> Still, not a bad hoax compared to most that come through.  Pretty
> clever - somewhat complicated, but not unbelievable.  It's one of
> those "Golly, it was sitting right under my nose" hoaxes.
[...]
>> I did a brief search of the NJ Law network
>> http://www.njlawnet.com/
>> which leads to the "Motor Vehicle Services" page
>> http://www.state.nj.us/mvs/testing.htm where I found the
>> following text
[...]
>>> THE POINT SYSTEM
>>>
>>> Motor Vehicles keeps track of your driving record by adding
>>> points to your record when you are convicted of a moving
>>> violation. The more serious the violation, the more points
>>> you are given.
>
>> While I'm not a attorney, it seems to me that once a fine is
>> imposed, you have been convicted and the points should be
>> assessed. Whether they are is another story. I would tend to
>> agree that the story is BS on the general principle of never
>> believing anything that has ">>>>>>" preceding every line.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 12:28:05 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: pre-fab flowmaster system: was Re: Olds EFI + Head

I tried a Flowmaster system on my '75. According to the Summit Catalog, they
fit all A-bodies up to '77. WRONG! I had my choice of having the 2.5" pipes
hit the gas tank or the springs. I ended up paying to have custom tail pipes
bent. They barely resembled the Flowmaster pipes. I should have heeded the
rule of thumb: the more universal an item is supposed to be, the less likely
it is to fit what you have.

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Comid <Comid>
Date: Friday, November 06, 1998 7:45 AM
Subject: pre-fab flowmaster system: was Re: Olds EFI + Head


>
>Received: from halifax.chebucto.ns.ca [192.75.95.75] by jellico.com with
smtp
> id AHCMDHBM ; Fri, 6 Nov 1998 07:44:56 -0500
>Received: by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca id <32792-12276>; Fri, 6 Nov 1998
08:43:54 -0400
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smtp.email.msn.com" ident: "TIMEDOUT") by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca with ESMTP
id <33662-12279>; Fri, 6 Nov 1998 08:43:26 -0400
>Received: from default - 153.36.127.76 by email.msn.com with Microsoft
SMTPSVC;
> Fri, 6 Nov 1998 04:42:50 -0800
>From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Subject: pre-fab flowmaster system: was Re: Olds EFI + Headers
>Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 06:42:34 -0500
>X-Priority: 3
>X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
>X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.71.1712.3
>X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.71.1712.3
>Message-ID: <0468f50421206b8UPIMSSMTPUSR04@email.msn.com>
>X-Orcpt: rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h
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>Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>
>>The rest is a 2.5" Flowmaster a-body exhaust kit with their mufflers.
>>
>>Shane Gibreal
>>
>Shane,  How did the flowmaster kit fit in the car?  Was it an easy to
>do bolt on operation or require a welder and engineering degree?
>Where do the tips of the pipes come out?
>
>thanks,
>greg
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 15:16:56 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: GK cam choice

How's your vacuum?

- -----Original Message-----

> I think the long stroke Olds will stand more cam than other shorter
>stroke big engines.
> [for compairison purposes] The engine in my car now[10.3-1 comp] has a
>Smith cam, 244/254 @.050, .560"/.545, 108LC. It'll idle at 500 in gear.
>10mpg, 11.4@119. It pulls hard to 5800.
>Dave Brode
>64 Cutlass
>  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 14:18:31 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: S-S-S-SMOKINNNNN'!!!!!!

One thing to offer: On the stand, idling, the oil pump won't put much
oil to the top of the motor, and the factory drains should drain the oil
before much leaks out.  Drive around town, increasing the oil flow,
etc.., and you may get enough oil pooling in the valve area to make it
leak??

Brian Ammons wrote:

> So...I guess my question is, "Should I EXPECT oil on the manifold with that
> tar paper missing?".  Also, "Why would the oil only make it to the manifold
> when the car was moving?"
> 
> One more - "WHY IN THE NAME OF _ANYTHING_ DID THEY MAKE IT SO _FRIGGIN'_
> DIFFICULT TO GET THE PASSENGER'S VALVE COVER OFF?".

To add that little 'Zing' to your everyday remove / replace procedure.

Also, unfortunately, a company looking to re-cycle cars would more
likely focus on size, power, looks , and cost then long-term
maintainability.  I just can't see a (cough cough) bussinessman saying
to the engineers (good idea, could save millions, but what about in 10
years, won't those private mechanics have a hard time fixing it, better
not do that..)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 13:25:52 -0700
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: RE: New Olds Web Page!

Thanks Norm!
(Sorry List... didn't have his personal e-mail address...)
Blaine

> Blaine,
> 
> Very nice page. I'm also keen on the 71s and 72s. 
> 
> Norm Baier

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 12:32:00 -0800
From: "Steve Elijah" <selijah@eznet.com>
Subject: plug wires

I am the novice with the 72 Vista Cruiser, 350cid, HEI added.
One list response suggested gap plugs .060.   Ok I am gonna do that in the
next hour or so.  Thought I might get some new plug wires.  What can I get
off the shelf at the local bozo auto parts or NAPA store.  I am just looking
for functional quality at a reasonable price.  Any suggestions? Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 15:34:06 -0500 (EST)
From: KINNEYLM@webtv.net (MIKE KINNEY)
Subject: Re: old  mi license plates

I have some old mi 1960s license  plates for trade, looking for a 1964
mich plate.
all in good condition. 

64 olds super 88 holiday sedan
86 chev S-10
89 buick century
94 pont  transport

Kinneylm@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 15:45:43 -0500
From: "<GJC> Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: S-S-S-SMOKINNNNN'!!!!!!

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Brian Ammons
Sent: Friday, November 06, 1998 3:05 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: S-S-S-SMOKINNNNN'!!!!!!


I have mentioned before that my '84 307 is producing a lot of smoke due to
motor oil on the passenger's exhaust manifold.  I have done some
"experiments" to look into this, as well as remembered a key bit of info
that I had previously forgotten, and I would very much like anyone and
everyone to offer any suggestions/comments they may have.

1.  I am REASONABLY certain that the only oil leak in the car is coming
from the passenger's valve cover, right above #5 cylinder (farthest
forward, passenger side).  I was concerned that oil was shooting out from
around the oil pan gasket, or possibly the rear main seal (both of which
have been replaced, the gasket actually twice)...

Well if it was your oil pan It's doubtful you would find it all over the
lower pan as air flow would force the oil to run the ridge of the pan lip
and splatter all over the torque plate cover.

2.  ...so I put the car up on ramps and cleaned the whole underside of the
motor with Gunk.  There was a lot of oil on the crossmember, crossover
pipe, and manifold...but all on the passenger side.  I let the Gunk sit for
a while, hosed it off, started it...OK, it produced a little bit of smoke
after running for about 5 minutes, but after 10 minutes of smoke it CEASED.
 What I mean is, with the car up on ramps and stationary (you'd hope,
right?), there is no oil sneaking up (actually down) onto the manifold.

You probably got the initial smoke at this point because of the gunk remover
that was caught (not flushed) on the back of the exhaust manifold. Remember
your car is on ramps so the nose is up in the air. The oil that was normally
dripping directly down from the front cylinder valve train now dripped down
farther back that the faulty section of valve cover. so the leak seemed to
stop at that point. Your also not moving and breaking the car which would
force more oil; forward in valve cover over the leaking section.

3.  So I took it off the ramps, and drove around the neighborhood.  Come to
rest in front of the house, and GLORY BE!  Smoke off the manifold.  Put it
back up on ramps, and the oil pan/flywheel are still clean of oil...smoke
is definately on the manifold, and PROBABLY coming from the valve cover.

Read answer to #2.

4.  OK, so the key bit of information that I had forgotten - When I was
jacking around with something under there (I don't even remeber what it was
at this point) I took off the piece of black "tar paper" (it was in my way)
that seemed to be designed to keep dirt (OIL?????) off the ???
(MANIFOLD???).  The driver's side tar paper is still there...but then again
I can see the edges of that valve cover a lot easier, and I KNOW that one
doesn't leak.

Tar paper? are you referring to the rubber barrier that covers the opening
in front fender over the upper A-Arm? That has nothing to do with deflecting
oil, (that shouldn't be present anyway), and everything to do with insuring
air is properly directed through radiator than around block for any added
cooling it can achieve.

So...I guess my question is, "Should I EXPECT oil on the manifold with that
tar paper missing?".  Also, "Why would the oil only make it to the manifold
when the car was moving?"

I basically answered this. Replace that valve cover gasket and make sure you
have that rubber barrier over upper A-Arm. That's about it. Sorry but yeah,
the right valve cover is a bear. Try changing the fuel pump...


- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
 Purling, N.Y.
 12470-9709

ICQ# 5209322
 CC-IROC-SS
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

Couse Custom Cutlass,
'86 CC-IROC-SS-#1 = "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/~cousecustoms/

Join Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List -
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody

Once a member, post to:
mailto:olds_gbody@listbot.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 13:03:15 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: plug wires

You can usually find Accel Wires at any Advanced outparts store, and 
some AutoZones.

>I am the novice with the 72 Vista Cruiser, 350cid, HEI added.
>One list response suggested gap plugs .060.   Ok I am gonna do that in 
the
>next hour or so.  Thought I might get some new plug wires.  What can I 
get
>off the shelf at the local bozo auto parts or NAPA store.  I am just 
looking
>for functional quality at a reasonable price.  Any suggestions? Thanks.
>
>
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 14:04:06 -0500
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: Non-Olds: Useful Info for Speeding Tickets

> From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>

> Padavano.Joe@orbital.com wrote:

> > Is this real or an urban myth?
> 
> I've seen this come in from a couple other car lists that I'm on.  Most
> people on those lists seemed to vote for the myth.  I would suspect most
> places would 1. deposit the check 2. send a refund for the difference 3.
> escrow the excess 4. donate the excess to a charity or 5. pocket the
> difference as a tip.  

Yeah, I assumed it was myth even before I sent it to the list; it was just
something I got in with a buncha other funnies in an e-mail (from my
boss, no less), and thought it was worth passing along to me Olds mates,
even though it was off-topic humor.  1K pardons, digest folks!

BUT, even myths may contain a nugget of truth;  p'haps in some state(s),
this ruse was once possible.  Now that it's hit the 'Net, it'll be common
knowledge, like that practical joke for John Glenn that came up a few
days ago.  I'm sure this issue was addressed by RMVs in all states and
provinces long before today.



Tim Churchill  tchurchill@draper.com  OCA #30327  Framingham, MA
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, new a.k.a 'Old Gold'
'98 VW Passat GLS Wagon, a.k.a. 'der Kinderwagen'

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 16:19:48 -0500
From: "Rob Lewis" <fever@planeteer.com>
Subject: Re: no heat

Hi Andrew it is the type at the back of the block
is there a name for this part.or may-be I can just by-pass it.
Also which way does this water flow,from water pump to heater and to
manifold or vice versa.I'm not totally stupid just not to familiar with
these air
cond units.Thanks 
Rob.

- ----------
> From: Andrew C. Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: no heat
> Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 2:00 PM
> 
> > I think that might be the problem (stuck in closed position)
> > all summer.Can this be replaced or fixed.
> 
> Sure. If this is the design with an accessible moving arm, you
> could try squirting some Liquid Wrench on it, and/or "helping"
> it to move with your fingers; it might free up after that. At
> worst, it's not too hard to find a replacement. The in-line
> ones just swap out as soon as you loosen the hose clamps. The
> type that are screwed into the block take a little more time
> and persuasion to get loose, and you'll need some teflon tape
> to seal the threads on the new one, but it shouldn't be too
> hard to do. Getting at it is the trickiest part; sometimes
> they're kind of buried back there...
> 
> -- Andy
> 
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 16:22:59 -0500
From: "Rob Lewis" <fever@planeteer.com>
Subject: Date:	Fri, 6 Nov 1998 16:22:59 -0500

- ----------
> From: Patton <patton@ComCAT.COM>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Olds EFI + Headers
> Date: Sunday, November 01, 1998 11:32 PM
> 
> 
> Here we go again.......
> 
>                 I went through 5 sets of headers from El Cheapo brand
> to the Super-price variety - not one set would fit in my 67' CS
> drop top with 455 - they all hit the steering column big
> time. I now run WZ manifolds with stock 2-1/4 pipes and S/S 
> mufflers......
> 
> 
> Just my experience
> The General
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 15:31:26 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 403 vs 307 HO Best heads???

>
>
>>Are the 5a's better than the 4's that r on it now??
>>Bernie
>
>
>5a's from a 350 are reputed to be one of the best flowing heads made. 5A's
>from a 307 prolly wouldn't flow any better than the 4's. Both will increase
>comp ratio on the 403 by about 1.5 points.
>
>drc


Actually the 4's have a 60 cc chamber and the 5a's have a 67cc chamber.
On a stock 403 this would give you a 10.0 and a 9.37 CR, respectively.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 16:34:55 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Fwd: 65 330 Cam

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- --part0_910388098_boundary
Content-ID: <0_910388098@inet_out.mail.aol.com.1>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

Is this the right cam Olds folks?

- --part0_910388098_boundary
Content-ID: <0_910388098@inet_out.mail.aol.com.2>
Content-type: message/rfc822
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
Content-disposition: inline

From: GT5726@aol.com
Return-path: <GT5726@aol.com>
To: renchd@krause.com
Subject: Re: 65 330 Cam
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 16:20:23 EST
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

I guess I have the correct cam, (I'm sitting here with a confused look upon my
face,duh). I am going to list the cam card specs:
Camshaft: Performer RPM Hydraulic
Catalog #: 7112
Engine: Oldsmobile 330-350-403 c.i.d. V-8
RPM Range: 1500-6500
Caustion: Do not use high pressure racing vavlesprings. Use only reccommended
Edelbrock Sure Seat Valve Springs #5712. Use stock ratio rocker arms only.
Duration at .006 Lift: Intake 290 degrees   Exhaust 300 degrees
Duration at .050 Lift: Intake 224 degrees   Exhaust 234 degrees
Lift at cam: Intake .310"   Exhaust .325"
Lift at valve: Intake .496"   Exhaust .520"
Timing at .050 Lift...
Intake:Open 5 degrees BTDC Close 39degrees ATDC
Exhaust : Open 54 degrees BBDC Close 0 degrees ATDC
Lobe Seperation: 112 degrees 
Intake Centerline: 107 degrees
*CAUTION: Use only Edelbrock Performer-Plus Timing Chain and Steel Gear Set
#7813. Do not use late model timing chain and gear sets that are designed for
emission-controlled engines. These timing sets are machined in a retarded
postion and are not recommended for this camshaft installation. Edelbrock
Timing Sets feature three keyways for specified timing selection.

- --part0_910388098_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 15:39:23 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: plug wires

>I am the novice with the 72 Vista Cruiser, 350cid, HEI added.
>One list response suggested gap plugs .060.   Ok I am gonna do that in the
>next hour or so.  Thought I might get some new plug wires.  What can I get
>off the shelf at the local bozo auto parts or NAPA store.  I am just
looking
>for functional quality at a reasonable price.  Any suggestions? Thanks.
>
Spend a little bit of money and get some quality ones.  The last ones I
bought were Autolite's and they ran me about $40 but they lasted about
6 yrs (sold the car) and I believe had a lifetime warranty.  Had a couple
of the ends pull out but just slid the boot back and recrimped them.  A
little tip:  before you try to pull the wire off of the plugs twist them
back and
forth so the rubber isn't stuck on the ceramic of the plug.  Also grip the
wire
as far down as you can and use steady pressure.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 15:50:39 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Childs&Albert Gapless Rings

Peter,
I didn't do a lot of the rebuilding myself but did the R&R work, prep, and
some of the long block assy.  As I recall (been in the army for 5 yrs) we
just used a standard hone finish.  The ZGS rings we used were a little
different than the ones Shane was describing in that it was just a regular
moly ring but on each of the butt ends the ring was half thickness so it
overlapped itself when compressed.  When I built my 350 in my shop we
just used the standard honing stones I know for sure and it had the ZGS's
in it.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>Are you an engine rebuilder? What type of honing finish is good for these
>rings?
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>0
>
>> Shane is absolutely right.  After about 3000 miles we would run a leak
>down
>> test on all our rebuilt engines.  The best you ever saw with regular moly
>> rings
>> was about 7 to 10 %.  With the ZGS rings that dropped to the 1 to 3 %
>range
>> and the most I ever saw from a set of them was about 5% which is still
>> better
>> than normal moly rings.  Does this give you more power and better fuel
>> economy?  Yes.  Not enough to feel but yes.  You get the benifit of
>knowing
>> that your getting the most out of your motor, but to me the best thing is
>> that
>> you get less oil contamination due to blowby.  Your oil will stay cleaner
>> longer
>> which in turn is better for the motor.  You not only get a power increase
>> from
>> better cyl sealing but you also get less intake charge contamination from
>> your
>> PCV valve sucking in blowby because there's less blowby to suck in.  Keep
>> in mind that all of this isn't on a scale that is going to give you big
>> increases in
>> anything but it's good peace of mind.
>>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 17:15:59 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: plug wires

    If you but Accel's 8.8 wires...I doubt you could seperate the boots from
the wires...haha. I am very pleased with these wires and highly recommend
them.

Collyn

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 16:21:13 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: Olds EFI + Headers

Mick Gillespie wrote:

> >I've got a set that fits, with a dent here and a dig there. They're
> >Hooker Super Comp #3701 I believe. But they're only 1.75" and I want 2".
> >The rest is a 2.5" Flowmaster a-body exhaust kit with their mufflers.
> >
> >Shane Gibreal
>
> Shane,
> Is your 67 a convertible? That's the issue all of us with droptops have. As
> many times as subject has come up on the list, I haven't heard of anyone
> with a successful installation of of the shelf headers.
> ==============================================
> Mick Gillespie
> 69 Cutlass Conv.
> 80 Toronado Brougham
> mgillespie@sprynet.com
> http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
> ==============================================

  Mick,

Yep, it is a drop top. It wasn't easy, but they fit. If I remember right the
tightest spot was the control arms. Little dent here and there, but it's better
than spending $750.00 on a  set of 2.25 inchers for my '67 Cutlass Supreme drag
car with stock front end, like I had to this summer. Now you wanna talk about
tight. Oh man.

Shane Gibreal
'67 Cutlass Convertible
'67 Cutlass Supreme post - drag

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 16:21:59 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: pre-fab flowmaster system: was Re: Olds EFI + Headers

Gregory Zimmerman wrote:

> >The rest is a 2.5" Flowmaster a-body exhaust kit with their mufflers.
> >
> >Shane Gibreal
> >
> Shane,  How did the flowmaster kit fit in the car?  Was it an easy to
> do bolt on operation or require a welder and engineering degree?
> Where do the tips of the pipes come out?
>
> thanks,
> greg

Greg,

I didn't think it was too bad. Just the regular problems with one size
fits all stuff. Hardest part was getting 2.5" pipe to go over rear-end
without rubbing on floor. No welding, no degree needed hack-saw or pipe
cutter at the most. Pipes exit at rear bumper just between tailights and
bumper bolts. Kit fits real tight, makes for a real solid intalation. Am
going to put 18" x 3" polished stainless tips on this winter.

Shane Gibreal
'67 Cutlass Convertible
'67 Cutlass Supreme - drag

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 16:22:41 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: Speechless Rocket talk

Oldsmagnet wrote:

> Parachat appears to be having kittens tonight, so the server's locked up.  
I'm
> assuming that's the case, 'cuz it ain't working!  Giving a Java type error...
> Don't know any more technicals than that, except it don't work tonight.  I'm
> ~hoping~ it'll just fix itself, since it's gotta be on their end of the food
> chain...  I'll keep trying through the weekend, and hope for the best.
>
> By the way, was ~anyone~ able to log on tonight?  Or is it locked up 
completely?
>

I was on along with a few other peole. Had no problems.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 14:46:23 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: no heat

> Hi Andrew it is the type at the back of the block
> is there a name for this part.or may-be I can just by-pass it.

Well, it's the heater valve, and shouldn't be too hard to find;
I don't think there were a whole lot of different ones for Olds
over several years. I don't think you can bypass it real easily
since one end of it is screwed into the block. The replacement
shouldn't cost a fortune. Both Olds in our family that had the
block-mounted valve ('76 and '78) needed it replaced at least once.

> Also which way does this water flow,from water pump to heater
> and to manifold or vice versa.

Somebody check me on this but I think it flows out of the block
through the valve, through the heater core, then back through
that long return hose to the water pump. That makes the most 
sense to me since you want the heater to start putting out heat 
as soon as possible.

As far as testing, you might want to get a hand vacuum pump, and
when the engine is cold and stopped, disconnect the heater hose 
at the valve and see if the valve is open. I think it should be;
in any event, hook up the hand pump to the vacuum port and see
if the valve moves when you apply a vacuum to it. Sounds like you
are going to find that it won't budge.

> I'm not totally stupid just not to familiar with these air
> cond units.

Heck, no problem. In between our urban legend discussions we do
try to fix a few cars now and then.  :-)

- -- Andy


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 15:08:49 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Pipe Expander??

At 10:55 AM 11/6/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Among the innumerable catalogs I receive I recall seeing someone offering 
>a mandrel (bolt operated) for expanding the ends of exhaust pipes.. Now, no 
>can find.  
>Anyone recall seeing this item? I need to fix my 3" true duals on the 
>Cutlass.

try JC-Whittney or  HarborFrieght

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 15:12:02 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: plug wires

At 12:32 PM 11/6/98 -0800, you wrote:
>I am the novice with the 72 Vista Cruiser, 350cid, HEI added.
>One list response suggested gap plugs .060.   Ok I am gonna do that in the
>next hour or so.  Thought I might get some new plug wires.  What can I get
>off the shelf at the local bozo auto parts or NAPA store.  I am just looking
>for functional quality at a reasonable price.  Any suggestions? Thanks.
> 

I was fouling plugs at .060, now I run the factory .080 and they 
run fine.

Buy any brand wires for '75 and up Olds 350.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 19:24:04 -0200
From: BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: New Member/please help

Hi all,
I have been looking for this sort of mailing list for some time.  I
recently became the proud new owner of an '86 Cutlass Supreme Brougham.
I really love this car, but I hate the problems I am having.  Maybe
there is someone out there that can help me with one or two of them.

1.  It has a 307 with the standard 4 bbl. carb.  the engine has 135k
miles on it but the trans is new.  For some reason, I only get 11 mpg on
the highway and I shudder to think about my city mpg.  A good friend of
mine has the same engine (code "Y") in an '85 Delta 88 and not only is
it much quicker than mine (both are strictly stock) but it gets about 8
more mpg than mine.  I have a feeling that it is my carburetor, but if
anyone else has any ideas please let me know.  It has new plugs, wires,
and O2 sensor.  Also, will a Monte Carlo 305 4 bbl carb fit on my car? 
What mods are necessary to make this work, if any?  I ask because I can
get a good one cheap.
2.  My Service Engine Soon light comes on.  It used to come on only at
sustained highway speeds, but now it is coming on other times as well. 
This is usually accompanied by a little hiccup, sort of like a shift
into or out of overdrive, which I do not have.  the car doesn't run any
differently with the light on.  Also, if I kill the engine the light
goes off and stays off, usually until it gets back on the highway for a
few minutes.  Again, I am thinking it's my carb, but I don't know.
3.  I have a sound that is just like leaves caught in my heater fan, but
the pitch of this sound changes in direct correspondence to the engine
RPM's.  It is coming from under the hood of the car, most likely toward
the front of the engine, and definitely on the passenger side.  I am
almost positive that it is one of the components run by a belt, like
maybe the air pump or AC compressor (which doesn't work anyway)  I am
going to take the belts off of each of these one at a time to see if I
am correct, but before I do, has anyone else had this problem?  this
noise only occurs about 75% of the time, and when it starts, it sort of
fades in and gets louder until it reaches the leaves-in-the-blower
stage.  It is imprtant to note that I never had this sound until I
cleaned my engine.  The engine was cold at the time and I sprayed
Castrol Super Clean under the hood, like I do with all of my cars, then
hosed it off, taking car4e to dry all of the puddles off of the intake
manifold before starting it.  Would it be possible to have maybe rinsed
the grease out of a bearing somewhere?  Whatever it is it sounds awful.
I know this message is sort of long-winded for a first-time writer, but
tomorrow is Saturday and I really would like to spend the day working on
my new Cutlass-project
thank you, 
Brian Shankle

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 15:30:55 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: wmachine; there are real racers here

Shane wrote:

> Sorry, no pics I can send yet. Want to get a scanner soon, any suggestions, 
anybody?
> I had the car back halved  in K.C. at Star Chassis - 913-262-8038 (just a 
little plug
> for Larry, he does GREAT work). It's got a narrowed 9", 4-link w/ wisbone, 
coil-over
> shocks, Mark Williams aluminum pumpkin and 40 spline gun barrel drilled 
axles, 4.88
> gears, Wilwood discs all around, 16.5 x 32 slicks, Weld Alumi-Star wheels 12 
point cage,
> sheet metal floor from firewall to behind seat, the rest, to the rear bumper 
is all
> polished aluminum.  Fiberglass hood, scoop and bumpers What is not hand 
built in the
> rear chassis is all Competition Engineering stuff. It weighs in at about 
2750 lbs.
> Hoping for low to mid 9's.
> 
> Shane Gibreal



Quite impressive specs indeed!  Can't wait to see the pics.  
I'd say you have the potential of having the quickest Rocket
on the list!  
In what forum do you plan on competing in?  
Brackets, shoot outs, Super Gas?  

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1592
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