Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1591


oldsmobile-digest      Friday, November 6 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1591



Re: Convertible Question
RE: 1986 442 engine question
Alum. Exhaust coating
Re: Baaad Day!!!!!(kind of long)
RE: buying car
Re: metal in oil, ASAP HELP
Re: 1986 442 engine question
Re: 64 olds super 88 (prepping car for storage)
re:74 442 for sale or parts
buying engine
Re: 230 to hot?
Re: buying engine
emishuns
Re: 403 vs 307 HO Best heads???
Re: Show Quality Chrome Plater
Re: wmachine; there are real racers here
Re: Childs&Albert Gapless Rings
RE: 230 to hot?
Re: Mondello's Cryogenic Bearings!!
Re: metal in oil, ASAP HELP
Re: re. wmachine,there are real racers here
Re: 455 running very rich... Questions about adjusting Holley carb.
Re: Olds EFI + Headers
RE: buying car
Re: 403 vs 307 HO Best heads???
Re: buying engine
Re: Found build sheet...
Re: Olds EFI + Headers
Re: Pre-fab dual exhaust anyone?
RE: rocket talk, h*lp
RE: Show Quality Chrome Plater
my new baby
Re: my new baby
Greg, favor
Re: Baaad Day!!!!!(kind of long)
Interior Vinyl Paint
Re: 230 to hot?
Re: Childs&Albert Gapless Rings
Re: More Quadrajet Questions
Re: 230 to hot?
Re: Childs&Albert Gapless Rings
Speechless Rocket talk
olds project car
Re: Speechless Rocket talk

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 18:27:29 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Convertible Question

I believe you mean the well cover.  The boot covers the convertible top when
it is down.  I've got a shop manual for 1967.  I'll look in it tomorrow when
I go back to the shop.  If there's a diagram, I'll fax it to you if you have
a fax number.  I've also got a '67 Delta topdropper.  If there's no picture
in my manual, I'll try to describe to you what my configuration looks like.
Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 17:39:04 -0600 
From: "White R (Ron)  at MSXSEPC" <RW981454@MSXSEPC.shell.com>
Subject: RE: 1986 442 engine question

I'll be waiting on these responses. I have an '86 also. Mine runs solid
though, but the info can be stored away. I would like to increase the
horsepower to around 250, but don't have a clue what to do, how to do it, or
who to get it done by. I would appreciate any help out there.

Ronnie White 
'86 442
Gautier, Ms

	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Mike Mavodones [SMTP:mmavodo1@maine.rr.com]
	Sent:	Thursday, November 05, 1998 4:47 PM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	1986 442 engine question

	 Hi 	
	Hope you can help a new subscriber. I have an '86 442 with the power
	sunroof and 307 automatic. The motor is making lots of top end
noises; no
	oil pressure (0). Is there anything different about this motor from
	standard Olds motors? Or to put it another way, should I rebuild or
	replace? Thanks for any input you other Olds enthuisiasts can give
me.
		Mike M.
		Maine   	

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 17:42:40 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Alum. Exhaust coating

Yep, 
like someone said, the magnet does stick to the pipe, thought it would,
coating is not that thick.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 18:35:20 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!(kind of long)

This is a '69 98 convertible we're talking about?  Tell the insurance
company to replace your car with a like type, style, condition, equipment
and miles instead of a cash settlement.  Then they'll gather a new respect
for luxo drop tops.  Two grand my @ss.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, November 05, 1998 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!(kind of long)


>Well, I am finding out like a select few others on this list that
>insurance companies blow! I have been messing with this claim for my
>Olds for well over a month now. The claims adjuster finally decided on
>a price of 2100. I wanted to ask for 2500. Well, her insurance company
>sent me a letter yesterday claiming that my car is only worth 2,000 so
>they are going to total it. The fee of 250 to get it back means that I
>will only have 1774 to try to replace the front bumper, hood, grills,
>get the driver quarter fixed, and get it painted! I think not! I am
>going to talk to my agent and find out the best way to go about this.
>I don't want to take this to court (mainly because financial situation
>is hard right now!) but, I will do anything for my Olds! My Olds and I
>have been through a lot and I am not going to let her be disgraced
>like this! Wish I could say that insurance companies are fun, but I
>think that you will have a long battle in front of you! Good luck!
>==
>Rock-Man's Page
>http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
>rockman20@yahoo.com
>1986 Honda Accord DX
>1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
>1981 John Deer Snowmobile
>197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
>_________________________________________________________
>DO YOU YAHOO!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 17:33:03 -0600 
From: "White R (Ron)  at MSXSEPC" <RW981454@MSXSEPC.shell.com>
Subject: RE: buying car

Good deals are out there if you're lucky. I just bought an '86 442 from a
college friend for $500. She bought it out of the show room in July '86 in
North Carolina and has driven it up until about two months ago when she
decided to move from Texas to West Virginia. It's never been stored in a
garage so it needs paint. Teresa is a pediatric nurse who bought the car
because it looked good at the time and drove like a dream for her. I have
known her for 20 years and would bet there were fewer than 10 times that she
has ever went over the speed limit. It seems like a waste for that car, but
I can't complain. It's solid as a rock with 191,000 on it and I'm putting
1,000 more each week. This was her baby and regular upkeep/maintenance was
top priority (except for paint). The last time I saw her, 1993, I told her
if she ever wanted to sell it, let me know.  One day while trying to call my
sister, I happened to see her old number on the opposite page in my address
book.  When I tried the number, it was still good!  She asked me if I was
still interested and the rest is history. She said the dealer would only
give her $500 for it & their attitude pissed her off. Lucky for me! 

Ronnie White
'86 442

	-----Original Message-----
	From:	B. Sanders [SMTP:blaines@strata3d.com]
	Sent:	Thursday, November 05, 1998 2:54 PM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	RE: buying car



	> I as an Olds lover would not want to prevent someone from buying
an Olds.
	> The point I am trying to bring across is that the car may be more
trouble
	> $$$ than he may think he is getting into. A 70 442 in let's say #3
	> condition should go for about $10,000. A #1 or #2 condition is
probably
	> getting close to the upper $15,000 - $20,000 range. A #4 condition
70 442
	> should still go for more than $2200. This leads me to believe the
car may
	> be a #5 or #6.

	The only problem I see with that generalization is that sometimes,
the
	sellers aren't really wise to the car's real value for the condition
it's
	in.  Just because the price is low doesn't mean that it's actually
in #5 or
	#6 condition.  Every once in a while, a really good deal comes
along.  For
	all we know, the car has a perfectly straight, rust free body, but
the
	seller is a young kid that bought it for $1500 with a terrible paint
job,
	and thought it would be cool to spray paint the car white and paint
some
	gaudy black racing stripes on it.  And now he's trying to double his
money
	on it.  Some times people come upon really great deals!  Maybe the
owner
	bought it from his neighbor for $500, and is just selling it at a
lower than
	book value, and he doesn't even care, because he's making $1500 or
more!
	Have you always paid top dollar for everything you've bought?  I
haven't.  I
	bought my '72 Cutlass Supreme with a $3000 race engine for $400!  I
could
	sell it for $1500 and be really happy -- even though it might be
worth
	more -- because I'd be making $1100 on the deal.  Am I making sense?
Good
	deals ARE still out there.  I've got a story to prove it that I'll
share
	with you all here in a week or two.  Keep your eyes out for it,
because you
	won't believe it...

	Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 18:55:45 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: metal in oil, ASAP HELP

Igor,

To add to what Peter said about the metal in the oil, I routinely see a
"pearly" metal flake residue in my race engines on the first few oil changes,
and remember that the oil in the pan isn't filtered yet, so this doesn't mean
it's in the oil passages.  Another thing to try is after you've drained the
oil (into a clean pan so you know anything in the oil is actually out of the
engine) pour it through a paint strainer and see if anything stays behind.
Then carefully cut the oil filter apart (tin snips do OK for this, I bought a
cutter and use it every time), seperate the filter element and look at it
closely.  This will tell you instantly what's up with the engine.  Then also
do the oil analysis recommended and double check what you looked at.  As much
as rebuilds cost (money and time), this is a small investment that will give
you peace of mind, and/or alert you to potential problems.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
ks7racing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 18:00:18 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 1986 442 engine question

As far as architecture, yes it is the same (ie you can bolt on any Olds
heads
etc.) but whether to rebuild or not it depends on how much you've run the
motor with no oil press.  If its started making noise the motor's probably
on
its way out and when you pull it down you might find out that you need to
turn
the crank, bore it, etc.  If your in that position it might be cheaper to
get
another motor.  If it really does have 0 oil press it wouldn't run that long
before
the lifters start pumping down and clattering which might be the noise your
hearing.  You might just need to replace the oil pump and everything will be
fine.  I would pull the pan to change the pump and while you got it off pull
a
couple of main and rod caps.  If all looks good replace the pump and bolt it
back together.  If the bearings are starting to come apart then you know you
need to pull the motor.  You won't really know whether rebuild or replace is
the best option till you tear the motor apart and see what it needs.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

> Hi
>Hope you can help a new subscriber. I have an '86 442 with the power
>sunroof and 307 automatic. The motor is making lots of top end noises; no
>oil pressure (0). Is there anything different about this motor from
>standard Olds motors? Or to put it another way, should I rebuild or
>replace? Thanks for any input you other Olds enthuisiasts can give me.
> Mike M.
> Maine
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 19:04:59 -0500 (EST)
From: dsenko@UU.NET (Drew Senko)
Subject: Re: 64 olds super 88 (prepping car for storage)

> hello everybody, I need some advice on winter storage, should I put my
> olds up on blocks for the winter or leave the weight of the car on the
> springs,or jack it up part way to take only partial weight off car?
> Your expertise is appreciated.    thanks


One of the great achievements of this mailing list over the last few
years is the FAQ!  There is a section detailing this issue quite well.
The FAQ is at:

http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm

The section on prepping a car for storage is at:

To jump to the section about prepping a car for storage, go to:

http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofall.htm

And take the link for "Prepping a Car for Storage".

Happy reading!

 --                    ______________                     _
Drew Senko            / Convertibles \                    |\
dsenko@uu.net         \_____Rule!____/     .__====-_._____|_\______
Vienna, VA, USA                     O      [   ___  |-     |  ___  \
http://members.aol.com/drewinva       o o  =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)
_______________________________________________\_/____________\_/_____

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 18:04:29 -0500
From: "Todd M.Williams" <todd@wvadventures.net>
Subject: re:74 442 for sale or parts

At 11:02 PM 11/4/98 -0500, you wrote:
>74 442
>more info at webpage... no since in wastin space on here 
>pics of car are posted at
>
><http://www.wvadventures.net/home/Todd/default.html>
>
>"RE:"....ps.my mail server went nuts on me hope i didnt send this thing
>more than once if so sorry guys...
>
>later Todd  todd@wvadventures.net
>
>72 cutlass supreme
>& 74 442

i have got a parts list of some things ppl have asked me for ill leaveing
for texas in about 8 hours and will be back at my computer mon. night so if
theres anything else please let me know guess im going to be parting it out
since ive had no offers on the hole car ..just i hate to take it to crusher
after im done parting it out so if theres anyone that wants to make me an
offer!! for the hole car let me know and ill get back with you on mon.
going to start takeing parts off Tues. morring and think the motor is going
to be going to a local guy down the road here thats all have a good weeked
every one.
Todd

todd@wvadventures.net
72 cutlass supreme (in shop all most done)
71 cutlass (still looking for parts)
74 442 cutlass (come and get it)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 19:20:29 EST
From: SHELTERMEN@aol.com
Subject: buying engine

Would anyone consider buying an engine without hearing it run?  What should I
look for when inspecting an engine on a stand?
Thanks
Tim

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 18:26:52 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 230 to hot?

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    >  I once had the motor at 230 deg. before I shut it down.  It ran =
consistent 190 deg. in city but as >soon as I went faster, it would go =
to 210 and higher till I slowed down or just stopped.  This is hot but =
>should not have done anything bad.  The hot problem has been solved =
now. =20
   =20
    Actually Igor, running the engine on the hot side during break
    in would really just help the rings to seat.  The heads have to
    stay cool to keep chamber temps down but generally the=20
    hotter the acutal cyl walls/rings run the better they seal.  There
    is a certain limit but I think that it's somewhere just below 300
    degrees before you'll damage the rings.  The main reason
    Ch*vy went to reverse cooling is what has been known for years,
    that is that the warmer the bores the better but the cooler the =
heads
    the better.  Grumpy Jenkins played around with this in the 60's
    but GM didn't want to retool.   I have seen a few motors that were=20
    totally babied when new and if you tried to push them hard would
    burn oil.  The cure was to let the engine run as hot as possible=20
    without causing damage or puking out the radiator and put a load
    on it.  This increased temp would let the rings finally seat fully =
and
    the burning oil under heavy load goes away.  Just thought I would
    share an old mechanics trick.
   =20
    Mike B
    mbloomer@gateway.net
    ICQ# 19113713
    72 Cutlass S (RIP)
    68 Cutlass Supreme
    =20

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    <DIV><STRONG>&gt;&nbsp; I once had the motor at 230 deg. before I =
shut it=20
    down</STRONG>.&nbsp; It ran consistent 190 deg. in city but as =
&gt;soon as I=20
    went faster, it would go to 210 and higher till I slowed down or =
just=20
    stopped.&nbsp; This is hot but &gt;should not have done anything =
bad.&nbsp;=20
    The hot problem has been solved now.&nbsp; </DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV>Actually Igor, running the engine on the hot side during =
break</DIV>
    <DIV>in would really just help the rings to seat.&nbsp; The heads =
have=20
    to</DIV>
    <DIV>stay cool to keep chamber temps down but generally the </DIV>
    <DIV>hotter the acutal cyl walls/rings run the better they =
seal.&nbsp;=20
    There</DIV>
    <DIV>is a certain limit but I think that it's somewhere just below =
300</DIV>
    <DIV>degrees before you'll damage the rings.&nbsp; The main =
reason</DIV>
    <DIV>Ch*vy went to reverse cooling is what has been known for =
years,</DIV>
    <DIV>that is that the warmer the bores the better but the cooler the =

    heads</DIV>
    <DIV>the better.&nbsp; Grumpy Jenkins played around with this in the =

    60's</DIV>
    <DIV>but GM didn't want to retool.&nbsp;&nbsp; I have seen a few =
motors that=20
    were </DIV>
    <DIV>totally babied when new and if you tried to push them hard =
would</DIV>
    <DIV>burn oil.&nbsp; The cure was to let the engine run as hot as =
possible=20
    </DIV>
    <DIV>without causing damage or puking out the radiator and put a =
load</DIV>
    <DIV>on it.&nbsp; This increased temp would let the rings finally =
seat fully=20
    and</DIV>
    <DIV>the burning oil under heavy load goes away.&nbsp; Just thought =
I=20
    would</DIV>
    <DIV>share an old mechanics trick.</DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Mike B<BR><A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@gateway.net">mbloomer@gateway.net</A><BR>ICQ#=20
    19113713<BR>72 Cutlass S (RIP)<BR>68 Cutlass=20
Supreme<BR></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 18:39:44 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: buying engine

I would either have to know the guys reputation or trust the guy a
lot.  Either way get a written agreement about the motor and talk
to him about what happens if the motor starts knocking or
something (put all that in the agreement).  Insist on pulling at least
the valve covers and checking for crud and signs the motor wasn't
taken care of properly.  I would probably pull the oil pan since its on
a stand and pull a couple of the main and rod caps.  You can also
use a flashlight to get a decent look at the shape of the bores.  If it
still has the plugs in it you can check them too to see how it was
running.  It's kind of like buying a junkyard motor so be sure to get
some kind of warranty and don't pay top dollar.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>Would anyone consider buying an engine without hearing it run?  What should
I
>look for when inspecting an engine on a stand?
>Thanks
>Tim
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 19:39:40 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: emishuns

Anyone out there who has an Olds 350, and has been thru a 25 mph "treadmill"
type emissions test, I'd be obliged if you could tell me the results of your
test.

Thankee.

drc

david.cullen@snet.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 19:31:31 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: 403 vs 307 HO Best heads???

>What's the best heads for a basically stock 403?  I have 5a's and whatever
>stock heads were on an 86 Salon, 307,140 HP 307.
>
>Bernie


The Salon's heads would be a very bad choice. They don't breathe worth a
snot.

 For a comparison of Olds heads see the Oldsmobile FAQ document, available
at http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 20:58:54 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: Show Quality Chrome Plater

Gary, 

There's a place in Fall River Mass called Nu-Chrome Corp.  They do amazing
things with bumpers, pot, stainless, etc. 508-324-0002.  Talk to Jack Baker.
Met him at a show in Vt.  

Scott

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 20:13:47 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: wmachine; there are real racers here

Greg Rollin wrote:

>   Count me in as another one interested in some drag racing
> conversation (Olds related, of course).
>   Shane, any pics of your 67's?  Would love to see them!
> As well as hearing what chassis work, etc. you've done to
> contain those 700 ponies.  Inquiring minds want to know!
>
>

Sorry, no pics I can send yet. Want to get a scanner soon, any suggestions, 
anybody?
I had the car back halved  in K.C. at Star Chassis - 913-262-8038 (just a 
little plug
for Larry, he does GREAT work). It's got a narrowed 9", 4-link w/ wisbone, 
coil-over
shocks, Mark Williams aluminum pumpkin and 40 spline gun barrel drilled axles, 
4.88
gears, Wilwood discs all around, 16.5 x 32 slicks, Weld Alumi-Star wheels 12 
point cage,
sheet metal floor from firewall to behind seat, the rest, to the rear bumper 
is all
polished aluminum.  Fiberglass hood, scoop and bumpers What is not hand built 
in the
rear chassis is all Competition Engineering stuff. It weighs in at about 2750 
lbs.
Hoping for low to mid 9's.

Shane Gibreal

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 20:14:48 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: Childs&Albert Gapless Rings

Peter Landowski wrote:

> I was looking on getting a set of rings for my 455. Does anyone out there
> ever had any experience with the Childs & Albert ZGTF piston rings? These
> are the zero gap rings that are supposed to seal better than any file fit
> rings because there is no ring gap with the zero gap ring. Is this good for
> street use? Will they last as long as normal plasma moly file fit rings?
>
> Pettrix@prodigy.net


I put a set in my '67 Cutlass 455. Only have 1500 miles on it since rebuild but
so far everything is great. When hot, leakdown is between 1 and 3%. Basicaly
they are the same as a normal file to fit moly ring except they have two thin
dyke(?) rings that go above and below one of the normal rings to make a more
complete seal. I've heard that they are actually better for street car than
race car, can't remember why, just what I was told or read or something. They
should last just as long since they're basicaly the same thing other than the
dyke(?) rings.

NOTE; everyone be sure to inspect all moly rings closley, one of mine had the
moly chipped of on one edge of the ring. I called C&A and they sent a new one
next day.

Shane Gibreal

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 20:22:28 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: 230 to hot?

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- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of mbloomer
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 1998 7:27 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: 230 to hot?


    >  I once had the motor at 230 deg. before I shut it down.  It ran
consistent 190 deg. in city but as >soon as I went faster, it would go to
210 and higher till I slowed down or just stopped.  This is hot but >should
not have done anything bad.  The hot problem has been solved now.

    And how did you alleviate this problem?  I have that problem now.  It's
quite odd to run hotter on the highway than around town.  I've done
basically everything I can think of to try to solve this problem.  Need
insightful wisdom please!

    Ray Costanzo
    87 409 Cutlass
    Bucks County, PA
    costanzo@netcarrier.com



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<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"=20
size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>=20
oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca =
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]<B>On=20
Behalf Of</B> mbloomer<BR><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, November 05, 1998 7:27=20
PM<BR><B>To:</B> oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: 230 to =

hot?<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><STRONG>&gt;&nbsp; I once had the motor at 230 deg. before I =
shut it=20
    down</STRONG>.&nbsp; It ran consistent 190 deg. in city but as =
&gt;soon as I=20
    went faster, it would go to 210 and higher till I slowed down or =
just=20
    stopped.&nbsp; This is hot but &gt;should not have done anything =
bad.&nbsp;=20
    The hot problem has been solved now.&nbsp; </DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><SPAN class=3D680052001-06111998><FONT color=3D#0000ff =
face=3DArial=20
    size=3D2>And how did you alleviate this problem?&nbsp; I have that =
problem=20
    now.&nbsp; It's quite odd to run hotter on the highway than around=20
    town.&nbsp; I've done basically everything I can think of to try to =
solve=20
    this problem.&nbsp; Need insightful wisdom =
please!</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
    <DIV><SPAN class=3D680052001-06111998><FONT color=3D#0000ff =
face=3DArial=20
    size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><SPAN class=3D680052001-06111998><FONT color=3D#0000ff =
face=3DArial size=3D2>
    <P><FONT size=3D2>Ray Costanzo<BR>87 409 Cutlass<BR>Bucks County,=20
    =
PA<BR>costanzo@netcarrier.com<BR></FONT>&nbsp;</P></FONT></SPAN></DIV></B=
LOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0003_01BE08FA.025F5180--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 20:15:50 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: Mondello's Cryogenic Bearings!!

Peter Landowski wrote:

> Mondello has just come out with a new set of 455 bearings that are made
> using some new technology of cryogenically freezing the bearing, thus in
> theory making it 30% stronger than even the tri-metal bearings. Now the
> kicker is the price, about $180.00 for the main and rod bearings. Has
> anyone out there tried them? Is this a "gimmick" or real race bearings?
>
> Pettrix@prodigy.net

  Hello again. I just had a race motor built by Mondello. Two pulls on the
dyno and it spun a cam bearing. Called Mondello, Lynn (head of tech) said
they've had that problem before from running huge by large cam and million
pound springs, actually it's just over .700" lift cam and 700lb. springs. He
told me about the new (as in, too late for me) cryogenic bearings and said
that they should fix the problem. He sent them out free of charge along with
new C&A rod bearings and Federal Mogul mains with the top layer of babbit
removed to supposedly make them harder. Still waiting to get cam and oil
pump back from Mondello, when I do and get it back on the dyno I'll let you
know how the new bearings held up. All cryogenic I got was cam bearings,
maybe rods, not sure.

By the way Mondello is coming out with a cryogenic engine block, and also an
aluminum engine block. Don't know any details, just heard while I was
waiting in hold.

Shane Gibreal

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 20:16:12 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: metal in oil, ASAP HELP

- --------------870CA471B1516D3C914E8C02
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit



Igor T. '81 455DRB wrote:

>  >What is your oil pressure at? What are your cold/hot driving oil
> pressure
> >#'s at? What are your clearances at? The mains should be .0020" -
> .0025".
> >Any tighter and you will get main bearing wear. This is from
> Mondello/Dick
> >Miller and other engine builders specs....
> >Pettrix@prodigy.net



> I do believe that it is the chrome dipstick because some of these
> chunks are large and shiny, and unless they are picked up by the
> dipstick, I don't see how they could float in the oil and be picked up
> by the dipstick every time.  And like I said, even running my finger
> over it (outside part, which is the same as the part in the motor) it
> leaves tons of shavings.

I agree, I've never known any bearing material to float, and I believe
moly from rings would be black.

Shane Gibreal

- --------------870CA471B1516D3C914E8C02
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML>
&nbsp;

<P>Igor T. '81 455DRB wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>&nbsp;>What is your oil pressure at? What are your
cold/hot driving oil pressure
<BR>>#'s at? What are your clearances at? The mains should be .0020" -
.0025".
<BR>>Any tighter and you will get main bearing wear. This is from Mondello/Dick
<BR>>Miller and other engine builders specs....
<BR>><A HREF="mailto:Pettrix@prodigy.net">Pettrix@prodigy.net</A></BLOCKQUOTE>
&nbsp;
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>I do believe that it is the chrome dipstick because
some of these chunks are large and shiny, and unless they are picked up
by the dipstick, I don't see how they could float in the oil and be picked
up by the dipstick every time.&nbsp; And like I said, even running my finger
over it (outside part, which is the same as the part in the motor) it leaves
tons of shavings.</BLOCKQUOTE>
I agree, I've never known any bearing material to float, and I believe
moly from rings would be black.

<P>Shane Gibreal</HTML>

- --------------870CA471B1516D3C914E8C02--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 20:16:37 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: re. wmachine,there are real racers here

B. Vosburgh wrote:

> I have a 68 442 post that is street and strip.  runs 11.45 at 116mph ,
> 1.60 60 ft on mickey thompson  et streets, and thats just raw  Olds
> power   455 with 4.11 gears 3500 J. W. stall converter.  run it on the
> street here in florida with no problems and made it threw 3 rounds at
> the sears craftsman et finales at rockingham NC . last week
>
>   Butch  68  442  post

  That's awful impressive, can you give me any specifics on your engine
combo. I'de love to get mine down that low. Congrats on the 3 rounds,
that's not easy to do at a big meet like that.

Shane Gibreal

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 20:16:59 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: 455 running very rich... Questions about adjusting Holley carb.

> At 10:09 PM 11/3/98 -0600, you wrote:
> >Don't mean to step on anyones toes here but here's how I've been taught to
> >adjust idle mixture screws, starting fom scratch.
> >With engine off, turn both sides (screws) all the way in (gently). Then back
> >them out 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns. Start the car. Go back and adjust one side 
at at
> >a time, slowly turn the screws in or out until you find the spot that gives 
you
> >the highest idle. Once you get one side done do the same on the other side. 
Go
> >from side to side a couple of times and just make sure you get it at the
> >highest idle after each adjustment. This will give you a leaner condition. 
You
> >may need to adjust your idle screw out a little to get your idle down where 
you
> >want it after these adjustments.
> >A problem you may have after leaning out your carb if you have a big cam and
> >stock convertor is when you put it in gear the engine will die. In this case
> >you would need to richen (turn out the screws) the circuit back up a little
> >until the car will run in gear.
>
>     Do you want to make this adjustment on a cold engine or after it has
> gone to a warm up?
>
>     Thanks,
>
>     Glenn
>     '69 4-4-2

Sorry, do it at normal operating temperature.

Shane Gibreal

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 20:17:14 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: Olds EFI + Headers

Patton wrote:

> Here we go again.......
>
>                 I went through 5 sets of headers from El Cheapo brand
> to the Super-price variety - not one set would fit in my 67' CS
> drop top with 455 - they all hit the steering column big
> time. I now run WZ manifolds with stock 2-1/4 pipes and S/S
> mufflers......
>
> Just my experience
> The General

I've got a set that fits, with a dent here and a dig there. They're
Hooker Super Comp #3701 I believe. But they're only 1.75" and I want 2".
The rest is a 2.5" Flowmaster a-body exhaust kit with their mufflers.

Shane Gibreal

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 21:48:12 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: RE: buying car

At 01:54 PM 11/5/98 -0700, you wrote:

>
>The only problem I see with that generalization is that sometimes, the
>sellers aren't really wise to the car's real value for the condition it's
>in.  Just because the price is low doesn't mean that it's actually in #5 or
>#6 condition.  Every once in a while, a really good deal comes along.  For
>all we know, the car has a perfectly straight, rust free body, but the


Well, in the time this thread has thrived on this list, the car, if in any
decent condition, would have already sold here in Middle Tennessee. If you
think you'll easily find a good deal around here, you better leave early,
quickly, and with a pocket of cash.  
I've only seen one muscle era 442 in that price range around here, and it
needed everything. Period. And the guy still wanted 2 grand. Heck, the car
didn't have the original motor.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 21:54:19 EST
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: 403 vs 307 HO Best heads???

In a message dated 11/5/98 5:43:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
costanzo@netcarrier.com writes:

<< 5a's would probably be good, definitely better than the 7A's from the 86
 307.  I have 7a's (72 350) which are good for a 1.3 point increase in
 compression.
 
 Ray Costanzo >>
Are the 5a's better than the 4's that r on it now??
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 18:57:04 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: buying engine

At 07:20 PM 11/5/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Would anyone consider buying an engine without hearing it run?  What should I
>look for when inspecting an engine on a stand?
>Thanks

If  I was buying a "Get-by" engine to keep me on the road till a rebiuld 
and it was a good price I would. The seller rep would fatcor heavily though.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 22:06:33 -0500 (EST)
From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.edu>
Subject: Re: Found build sheet...

> Peg O'Connor wrote:
> 
> > > buildsheet?
> > 
> > That's the only way to keep it forever.  Did that to both of mine and they
> > look wonderful.  They're protected from dirt, water, etc...
> 
> I thought you had forgotten us.  I hadn't seen you on the list in a long
> time.  Welcome back to Oldsland.

:)  No, I'm just lurking right now, but I'm keeping track of all you guys.
Notice how short the message was, though...that's all I have time for
lately. 

I didn't even get to announce my new baby that I got in JULY.  How sad is
that?  1985 Delta 88 LS Royale Brougham.  58K miles.  Mint. $2,000. (And
yes, that was 58,000 miles.)  :)  Its name is Gold Mine.  

Grey Mine is sitting.  No time to figure out what's wrong with it.  Red
Mine still getting engine built.  White Mine in Atlanta with ex-boyfriend.
Wood Mine got towed away for not being registered.

That's the short scoop from Gainesville....keep Oldsmorolling, everyone!

8)
peg

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 22:34:04 -0500
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Olds EFI + Headers

>I've got a set that fits, with a dent here and a dig there. They're
>Hooker Super Comp #3701 I believe. But they're only 1.75" and I want 2".
>The rest is a 2.5" Flowmaster a-body exhaust kit with their mufflers.
>
>Shane Gibreal

Shane,
Is your 67 a convertible? That's the issue all of us with droptops have. As
many times as subject has come up on the list, I haven't heard of anyone
with a successful installation of of the shelf headers.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 22:16:34 -0500
From: "Ron or JoAnn Hengerer" <Rhengerer@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Pre-fab dual exhaust anyone?

I just had my 74 Cutless with a 350 converted from original stock single to
dual exh.  They cut the crossover pipe and put turbo mufflers on 2" pipes.
I had it done at a small muffler shop here in Tenn.  The total job was
$150.00 and they did such a nice job it's a shame it has to be hidden under
the car.
Ron
- -----Original Message-----
From: Joe Gerschutz <gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 11:03 PM
Subject: Pre-fab dual exhaust anyone?


Does anyone know of a maker or place to get a prefabricated dual
exhaust setup (from headers or manifolds) for an 82 Cutlass? Jegs has
a "Universal Header Dual Kit" for $90 thats ~supposed~ to fit
anything, according to their tech person.  I don't want to do any
welding, and don't want to pay for a custom job, so should I try this
route?  Has anyone else had a similiar experience?  Right now I have
single 1.75" or 2" and my 350 is choking to death I think.


T I A
J O E

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 23:19:17 -0500
From: "<GJC> Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: rocket talk, h*lp

Ray. When you put in your nickname make it all one worn, no non letter
charactors in it (/<>$*\-_) you got the point. I kept trying to log on as
CC-IROC-SS and couldn't till I tried CCIROCSS...

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
 Purling, N.Y.
 12470-9709

ICQ# 5209322
 CC-IROC-SS
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

Couse Custom Cutlass,
'86 CC-IROC-SS-#1 = "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/~cousecustoms/

Join Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List -
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody

Once a member, post to:
mailto:olds_gbody@listbot.com


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Ray Costanzo
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 1998 5:50 PM
To: Olds
Subject: rocket talk, h*lp


I just tried to connect to Rocket Talk.  I've never done it before, as I
didn't have this computer before.  I am unable to connect.  Do I have to
wait until Oldsmagnet is connected or something.  Thanks y'all.  Oh, I'm
just trying to connect now for testing purposes, don't think I didn't notice
the 8:00 MST note.  It's 4:00 MST now.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 23:20:16 -0500
From: "<GJC> Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Show Quality Chrome Plater

Thanks Scot. Will do when need arises again, (soon).

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
 Purling, N.Y.
 12470-9709

ICQ# 5209322
 CC-IROC-SS
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

Couse Custom Cutlass,
'86 CC-IROC-SS-#1 = "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/~cousecustoms/

Join Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List -
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody

Once a member, post to:
mailto:olds_gbody@listbot.com


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 1998 8:59 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Show Quality Chrome Plater


Gary,

There's a place in Fall River Mass called Nu-Chrome Corp.  They do amazing
things with bumpers, pot, stainless, etc. 508-324-0002.  Talk to Jack Baker.
Met him at a show in Vt.

Scott

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 23:20:19 EST
From: Sprotten25@aol.com
Subject: my new baby

     I have just purchased a 69 cutlass it has a 350.I would apreciate any
refrences to where i can find parts and performance info.
left fender
core support
back seat 
new dash 


thanx for any help 

DINO

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 23:45:42 -0500
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Re: my new baby

Try Chris- SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
- -----Original Message-----
From: Sprotten25@aol.com <Sprotten25@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, November 05, 1998 11:19 PM
Subject: my new baby


>     I have just purchased a 69 cutlass it has a 350.I would apreciate any
>refrences to where i can find parts and performance info.
>left fender
>core support
>back seat 
>new dash 
>
>
>thanx for any help 
>
>DINO
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 21:29:18 PST
From: "Matt Cremean" <cutlass73@hotmail.com>
Subject: Greg, favor

Greg,

   I know this is going to bounce, so could you do me a favor? This is 
Matt Cremean. My computer that I use for my list mail is down. So, I 
have to resort to hotmail. I'm going home for the weekend and CMU 
doesn't like it when I have 500 messages all piled in there at once. So, 
if you would, please take me off the list. I thought I'd never have to 
do this, but oh well.

Thanx,
Matt Cremean



______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 21:35:02 -0800
From: "John Young" <realtorjohn@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!(kind of long)

NADA price guide (as appraisers and supposedly insurance co.s use)
69 98 2dr conv value range           low 3800  avg 6025  high 8400
These guys are waaaaay off!

realtorjohn@sprynet.com
69 442 W-32

- ----------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 01:34:17 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Interior Vinyl Paint

Does anyone know where s a good place to get interioir vinyl spray paint? I
know Year One sells it but they are quite expensive...

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 00:34:11 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 230 to hot?

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01BE091D.2C8B97C0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Like I told you before, I used the Water Wetter stuff.  Also, I put back =
those A-arm soft covers by the fenders inside.  Someone suggested this =
and it worked.  Removed the black soundproofing crap from the hood.  =
Also removed the weather-stripping in the back as well (by the wiper =
blades).  And finally, I am having a hood scoop (long and fairly wide =
but not that tall) installed, that should help stuff.  I personally =
think that those soft covers made all the difference.  Something about =
airflow through the rad instead of around it.
       =20
        And how did you alleviate this problem?  I have that problem =
now.  It's quite odd to run hotter on the highway than around town.  =
I've done basically everything I can think of to try to solve this =
problem.  Need insightful wisdom please!
        =20
        Ray Costanzo
        87 409 Cutlass
        Bucks County, PA
        costanzo@netcarrier.com
        =20


- ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01BE091D.2C8B97C0
Content-Type: text/html;
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

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http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN"><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Like I told you before, I used the =
Water Wetter=20
stuff.&nbsp; Also, I put back those A-arm soft covers by the fenders=20
inside.&nbsp; Someone suggested this and it worked.&nbsp; Removed the =
black=20
soundproofing crap from the hood.&nbsp; Also removed the =
weather-stripping in=20
the back as well (by the wiper blades).&nbsp; And finally, I am having a =
hood=20
scoop (long and fairly wide but not that tall) installed, that should =
help=20
stuff.&nbsp; I personally think that those soft covers made all the=20
difference.&nbsp; Something about airflow through the rad instead of =
around=20
it.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <BLOCKQUOTE=20
    style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
        <DIV></DIV>
        <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
        <DIV><SPAN class=3D680052001-06111998><FONT color=3D#0000ff =
face=3DArial=20
        size=3D2>And how did you alleviate this problem?&nbsp; I have =
that problem=20
        now.&nbsp; It's quite odd to run hotter on the highway than =
around=20
        town.&nbsp; I've done basically everything I can think of to try =
to=20
        solve this problem.&nbsp; Need insightful wisdom=20
        please!</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
        <DIV><SPAN class=3D680052001-06111998><FONT color=3D#0000ff =
face=3DArial=20
        size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
        <DIV><SPAN class=3D680052001-06111998><FONT color=3D#0000ff =
face=3DArial=20
        size=3D2>
        <P><FONT size=3D2>Ray Costanzo<BR>87 409 Cutlass<BR>Bucks =
County,=20
        =
PA<BR>costanzo@netcarrier.com<BR></FONT>&nbsp;</P></FONT></SPAN></DIV></B=
LOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01BE091D.2C8B97C0--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 01:49:01 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Childs&Albert Gapless Rings

Shane is absolutely right.  After about 3000 miles we would run a leak down
test on all our rebuilt engines.  The best you ever saw with regular moly
rings
was about 7 to 10 %.  With the ZGS rings that dropped to the 1 to 3 % range
and the most I ever saw from a set of them was about 5% which is still
better
than normal moly rings.  Does this give you more power and better fuel
economy?  Yes.  Not enough to feel but yes.  You get the benifit of knowing
that your getting the most out of your motor, but to me the best thing is
that
you get less oil contamination due to blowby.  Your oil will stay cleaner
longer
which in turn is better for the motor.  You not only get a power increase
from
better cyl sealing but you also get less intake charge contamination from
your
PCV valve sucking in blowby because there's less blowby to suck in.  Keep
in mind that all of this isn't on a scale that is going to give you big
increases in
anything but it's good peace of mind.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>I put a set in my '67 Cutlass 455. Only have 1500 miles on it since rebuild
but
>so far everything is great. When hot, leakdown is between 1 and 3%.
Basicaly
>they are the same as a normal file to fit moly ring except they have two
thin
>dyke(?) rings that go above and below one of the normal rings to make a
more
>complete seal. I've heard that they are actually better for street car than
>race car, can't remember why, just what I was told or read or something.
They
>should last just as long since they're basicaly the same thing other than
the
>dyke(?) rings.
>Shane Gibreal
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 02:40:01 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: More Quadrajet Questions

howardh wrote:

> I've heard people say I have the "electronic" QJ on my car ('84 H/O). What
> do they mean,

        The electronic Q-Jet receives commands from your car's on-board 
computer
(ECM -- electronic control module) to constantly vary it's fuel metering to
maintain as close to ideal an AF mixture as possible.

> and is that correct.

        Most likely.  Q-Jets went electronic in California in 1980 and the rest
of the states in 1981.

> What's the difference?

        Nonelectronic carbs don't use a computer.  They respond soley to 
airflow
and engine vacuum.   Electronic versions do this plus respond to computer
inputs, which come from continuous analysis of your AF ratio via the oxygen
sensor.  For this reason, an electronic carb has the potential to be more
accurate and economical.

        As for the rest of your questions, check everything else, i.e., timing
(though the computer probably keeps your timing pretty close, you can still
check your base timing), spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, vacuum
leaks...the works.  Many times symptoms of other problems are blamed on a
carburetor. Also ensure the carb is plugged in.  There are a couple small wire
harnesses on the carb.  One comes from the ECM and and the other plugs into the
throttle position sensor.  They must be plugged in for proper operation.  I'd
also ensure the choke is operating properly...and is plugged in, too.  A carb
rebuild and adjustment may fix your problem, but eliminate other variables
first.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 01:57:14 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 230 to hot?

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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   =20
    Another often overlooked thing is the plastic piece that sticks down =

    below the radiator.  Most people think it's just a parking block =
feeler
    but it acts as an air dam and creates a high pressure area in front =
of
    it with a low pressure area behind it.  The air naturally seeks out =
this=20
    low press and flows up through the rad and back down under the=20
    car into the low press area.  At speed the air wants to flow up over =

    the car instead of through the grille(s) and into the rad.  This is =
how
    all these late model cars with tiny or no grilles keep cool.
   =20
    =20
   =20
   =20
    Like I told you before, I used the Water Wetter stuff.  Also, I put =
back those A-arm soft covers by the fenders inside.  Someone suggested =
this and it worked.  Removed the black soundproofing crap from the hood. =
 Also removed the weather-stripping in the back as well (by the wiper =
blades).  And finally, I am having a hood scoop (long and fairly wide =
but not that tall) installed, that should help stuff.  I personally =
think that those soft covers made all the difference.  Something about =
airflow through the rad instead of around it.
           =20
            And how did you alleviate this problem?  I have that problem =
now.  It's quite odd to run hotter on the highway than around town.  =
I've done basically everything I can think of to try to solve this =
problem.  Need insightful wisdom please!
            =20
            Ray Costanzo
            87 409 Cutlass
            Bucks County, PA
            costanzo@netcarrier.com
            =20


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    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><BR><FONT size=3D3>Another often =
overlooked thing=20
    is the plastic piece that sticks down </FONT></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT size=3D3>below the =
radiator.&nbsp; Most=20
    people think it's just a parking block feeler</FONT></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT size=3D3>but it acts as an =
air dam and=20
    creates a high pressure area in front of</FONT></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT size=3D3>it with a low =
pressure area behind=20
    it.&nbsp; The air naturally seeks out this&nbsp;</FONT></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT size=3D3>low press and flows =
up through the=20
    rad and back down under the&nbsp;</FONT></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT size=3D3>car into the low =
press area.&nbsp;=20
    At speed the air wants to flow up over&nbsp;</FONT></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT size=3D3>the car instead of =
through the=20
    grille(s) and into the rad.&nbsp; This is how</FONT></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT size=3D3>all these late model =
cars with=20
    tiny or no grilles keep cool.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT =
size=3D3></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT =
size=3D3>&nbsp;</FONT><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Like I told you before, I used =
the Water=20
    Wetter stuff.&nbsp; Also, I put back those A-arm soft covers by the =
fenders=20
    inside.&nbsp; Someone suggested this and it worked.&nbsp; Removed =
the black=20
    soundproofing crap from the hood.&nbsp; Also removed the =
weather-stripping=20
    in the back as well (by the wiper blades).&nbsp; And finally, I am =
having a=20
    hood scoop (long and fairly wide but not that tall) installed, that =
should=20
    help stuff.&nbsp; I personally think that those soft covers made all =
the=20
    difference.&nbsp; Something about airflow through the rad instead of =
around=20
    it.</FONT></DIV>
    <BLOCKQUOTE=20
    style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
        <BLOCKQUOTE=20
        style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
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            <DIV></DIV>
            <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
            <DIV><SPAN class=3D680052001-06111998><FONT color=3D#0000ff =
face=3DArial=20
            size=3D2>And how did you alleviate this problem?&nbsp; I =
have that=20
            problem now.&nbsp; It's quite odd to run hotter on the =
highway than=20
            around town.&nbsp; I've done basically everything I can =
think of to=20
            try to solve this problem.&nbsp; Need insightful wisdom=20
            please!</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
            <DIV><SPAN class=3D680052001-06111998><FONT color=3D#0000ff =
face=3DArial=20
            size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
            <DIV><SPAN class=3D680052001-06111998><FONT color=3D#0000ff =
face=3DArial=20
            size=3D2>
            <P><FONT size=3D2>Ray Costanzo<BR>87 409 Cutlass<BR>Bucks =
County,=20
            =
PA<BR>costanzo@netcarrier.com<BR></FONT>&nbsp;</P></FONT></SPAN></DIV></B=
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Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 02:40:20 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Childs&Albert Gapless Rings

Are you an engine rebuilder? What type of honing finish is good for these
rings? 
Pettrix@prodigy.net
0

- ----------
> From: mbloomer <mbloomer@gateway.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Childs&Albert Gapless Rings
> Date: Friday, November 06, 1998 1:49 AM
> 
> Shane is absolutely right.  After about 3000 miles we would run a leak
down
> test on all our rebuilt engines.  The best you ever saw with regular moly
> rings
> was about 7 to 10 %.  With the ZGS rings that dropped to the 1 to 3 %
range
> and the most I ever saw from a set of them was about 5% which is still
> better
> than normal moly rings.  Does this give you more power and better fuel
> economy?  Yes.  Not enough to feel but yes.  You get the benifit of
knowing
> that your getting the most out of your motor, but to me the best thing is
> that
> you get less oil contamination due to blowby.  Your oil will stay cleaner
> longer
> which in turn is better for the motor.  You not only get a power increase
> from
> better cyl sealing but you also get less intake charge contamination from
> your
> PCV valve sucking in blowby because there's less blowby to suck in.  Keep
> in mind that all of this isn't on a scale that is going to give you big
> increases in
> anything but it's good peace of mind.
> 

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Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 01:51:38 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Speechless Rocket talk

Parachat appears to be having kittens tonight, so the server's locked up.  I'm
assuming that's the case, 'cuz it ain't working!  Giving a Java type error... 
Don't know any more technicals than that, except it don't work tonight.  I'm
~hoping~ it'll just fix itself, since it's gotta be on their end of the food
chain...  I'll keep trying through the weekend, and hope for the best.

By the way, was ~anyone~ able to log on tonight?  Or is it locked up 
completely?

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

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Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 05:24:33 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: olds project car

for all you resto people check this gem out
although for the purist it is not original
but I think it could be made into a real runner
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBaylSAPl.dll?ViewItem&item=39420786
wadda ya think?

Mark

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Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 07:29:03 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Speechless Rocket talk

Charlie, I had no problem logging on last night, but the population was
thin.  Peter.

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1591
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