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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1593


oldsmobile-digest     Saturday, November 7 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1593



re:heat
Re: New Member/please help (a tad long)
RE: New Member/please help
Re: no heat
Re: Interior Vinyl Paint
RE: 403 vs 307 HO Best heads???
Re: re:heat
86 3.0 V6 to 3.8 swap
RE: 86 3.0 V6 to 3.8 swap
Might be 307 after all...so.......
Re: Baaad Day!!!!!(kind of long)
interior vacuum leak?
Re: november jwo
Re: GK cam choice
Any one looking for Toro parts????
Re: november jwo
403
New H/O page
Re: 86 3.0 V6 to 3.8 swap
Re: 403
Re: New H/O page
Re: wmachine; there are real racers here
Re: november jwo
Re: 403
Re: New H/O page
Re: New H/O page
Olds/Porsche
Carburetor Question
Re: Non-Olds:  Useful Info for Speeding Tickets
Vinyl dye info
Re: wmachine; there are real racers here
Re: Carburetor Question
Re: Exhaust Pipe Expander??
Re: Interior Vinyl Paint
Re: interior vacuum leak?
Oscillating Vacuum
Technical Question:MotorSpecs
Re: Vinyl dye info
BB Cams
Re: Technical Question:MotorSpecs
Re: Oscillating Vacuum
Re: New H/O page
Re: november jwo
Suspension Springs-- Rec's needed
Re: Childs&Albert Gapless Rings
Re: Vinyl dye info
Re: Interior Vinyl Paint
1966 Cutlass parts  (must clean up storage)  
Re: interior vacuum leak?
Re: 403 vs 307 HO Best heads???
Re: New Member/please help
Re: november jwo
69ho.com
Re: 69ho.com
1969 W-32
Re: Interior? Color?
Re: buying car
Re: buying car
Re: Olds/Porsche
Re: Vinyl dye info
Re: Olds/Porsche
Re: Childs&Albert Gapless Rings
Re: 69ho.com
Re: Olds/Porsche
Emissions  307 vs 403

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 19:11:50 -0500
From: Kyle Roe <karoe@us.ibm.com>
Subject: re:heat

Forgot what year this was all about. You can get new Heater Control Valves thru
our list friend, Greg Rollin, at
Supercars Unlimited. You can contact them at  888-OLDS442 (order only),  503-
244-8249.
They also have a web page at www.supercarsunlimited.com

Kyle
karoe@us.ibm.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 19:18:03 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: New Member/please help (a tad long)

> It has a 307 with the standard 4 bbl. carb.  the engine has 135k
> miles on it but the trans is new.  For some reason, I only get 11 mpg on
> the highway and I shudder to think about my city mpg. 
>
First, there is a DEFINITE problem here.  One thing that you can do,
before anything else, is check your trouble codes that may be stored in
the ECM (computer).  Easy to check.  First, ground the test circuit by
using a paper clip, or small wire to jumper out the connections under
the dash.  The test plug is located under the radio on the bottom of the
dash.  It is a two-row electrical plug.  This part is important!  The
place you need to "short" out by connecting the wire to is THE UPPER TWO
RIGHT terminal holes.  With the wire connecting these two, then turn the
ignition to "ON" but do not start the car.  Then watch the "check
engine" light for a series of flashes.  The cycle will repeat itself as
long as it's like this.  So, under NORMAL conditions, you will get a
code of 12 (means the test circuit within the computer is fine), which
is one flash, followed by two quick flashes.  Then a pause, then one
flash, followed by two quick flashes...and so forth.  The ONE and the
TWO make up 1 and 2, which is code 12.  See how this works?  

Check the numbers.  I'll bet a dime to a donut your MC solenoid is
crapped out, and quite possibly the TPS too.  But that's just an initial
guess.  Could also be the ECM itself.  Either way, check this and if you
figure out which numbers flash, then we can help out with what the
computer is telling you.  This doesn't mean that the flashes will find
everything that may be wrong, since some "soft" problems go away when
the engine is turned off, and only appear intermittently.  These are the
tough ones to find.

If this seems like an experiment in fear, then I suggest you take it to
a reputable GM dealer and have them "analyze" it for you.  Around 50
bucks, but they can tell you more than the flash codes will.

> Would it be possible to have maybe rinsed
> the grease out of a bearing somewhere? 

Very possible.  You have to ensure you wrap the alternator and the
distributor with some sort of waterproof wrapping before hosing an
engine down.  Also, some of the terminals vital to computer operation
could get wet as well, and you know what happens then...

The squealing sounds to ME like an alternator bearing has been washed
clean.  Clean is good, except in the bearing's case.  Only one sure way
to fix that, and that's either disassemble the alternator and replace
the faulty component(s), or replace it with a new one.  Take the belt
off for the alternator first.  I'll bet that's your culprit.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 19:54:44 -0500
From: "<GJC> Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: New Member/please help

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of BRIAN SHANKLE
Sent: Friday, November 06, 1998 4:24 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: New Member/please help


Hi all,
I have been looking for this sort of mailing list for some time.  I
recently became the proud new owner of an '86 Cutlass Supreme Brougham.
I really love this car, but I hate the problems I am having.  Maybe
there is someone out there that can help me with one or two of them.

1.  It has a 307 with the standard 4 bbl. carb.  the engine has 135k
miles on it but the trans is new.  For some reason, I only get 11 mpg on
the highway and I shudder to think about my city mpg.  A good friend of
mine has the same engine (code "Y") in an '85 Delta 88 and not only is
it much quicker than mine (both are strictly stock) but it gets about 8
more mpg than mine.  I have a feeling that it is my carburetor, but if
anyone else has any ideas please let me know.  It has new plugs, wires,
and O2 sensor.  Also, will a Monte Carlo 305 4 bbl carb fit on my car?
What mods are necessary to make this work, if any?  I ask because I can
get a good one cheap.
2.  My Service Engine Soon light comes on.  It used to come on only at
sustained highway speeds, but now it is coming on other times as well.
This is usually accompanied by a little hiccup, sort of like a shift
into or out of overdrive, which I do not have.  the car doesn't run any
differently with the light on.  Also, if I kill the engine the light
goes off and stays off, usually until it gets back on the highway for a
few minutes.  Again, I am thinking it's my carb, but I don't know.
3.  I have a sound that is just like leaves caught in my heater fan, but
the pitch of this sound changes in direct correspondence to the engine
RPM's.  It is coming from under the hood of the car, most likely toward
the front of the engine, and definitely on the passenger side.  I am
almost positive that it is one of the components run by a belt, like
maybe the air pump or AC compressor (which doesn't work anyway)  I am
going to take the belts off of each of these one at a time to see if I
am correct, but before I do, has anyone else had this problem?  this
noise only occurs about 75% of the time, and when it starts, it sort of
fades in and gets louder until it reaches the leaves-in-the-blower
stage.  It is imprtant to note that I never had this sound until I
cleaned my engine.  The engine was cold at the time and I sprayed
Castrol Super Clean under the hood, like I do with all of my cars, then
hosed it off, taking car4e to dry all of the puddles off of the intake
manifold before starting it.  Would it be possible to have maybe rinsed
the grease out of a bearing somewhere?  Whatever it is it sounds awful.
I know this message is sort of long-winded for a first-time writer, but
tomorrow is Saturday and I really would like to spend the day working on
my new Cutlass-project
thank you,
Brian Shankle

Yeah, I would say at 135k the carb is due for a cleaning/rebuild. At least
up north NY state they seem to get 100k reliably but soon there after start
to falter and gum-up.

As to the sound, I would guess that it's the air pump. Remove that belt
first, have a listen. That is so long as the A/C clutch is working and the
hub dosn't get turned but the belt still spins. you said the A/C was out but
usually those hub clutches aren't the problem. You will readilly see the A/C
hub stationary yet the belt and pulley spin. The electric hub clutch only
activates when you turn on the A/C from the control panel.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
 Purling, N.Y.
 12470-9709

ICQ# 5209322
 CC-IROC-SS
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

Couse Custom Cutlass,
'86 CC-IROC-SS-#1 = "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/~cousecustoms/

Join Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List -
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody

Once a member, post to:
mailto:olds_gbody@listbot.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 20:00:54 -0500
From: "Rob Lewis" <fever@planeteer.com>
Subject: Re: no heat

Thank you sir I'll start checking on Sunday.
Can't afford to let the wife get any colder.
Let you know the story.
Thanks

- ----------
> From: Andrew C. Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: no heat
> Date: Friday, November 06, 1998 5:46 PM
> 
> > Hi Andrew it is the type at the back of the block
> > is there a name for this part.or may-be I can just by-pass it.
> 
> Well, it's the heater valve, and shouldn't be too hard to find;
> I don't think there were a whole lot of different ones for Olds
> over several years. I don't think you can bypass it real easily
> since one end of it is screwed into the block. The replacement
> shouldn't cost a fortune. Both Olds in our family that had the
> block-mounted valve ('76 and '78) needed it replaced at least once.
> 
> > Also which way does this water flow,from water pump to heater
> > and to manifold or vice versa.
> 
> Somebody check me on this but I think it flows out of the block
> through the valve, through the heater core, then back through
> that long return hose to the water pump. That makes the most 
> sense to me since you want the heater to start putting out heat 
> as soon as possible.
> 
> As far as testing, you might want to get a hand vacuum pump, and
> when the engine is cold and stopped, disconnect the heater hose 
> at the valve and see if the valve is open. I think it should be;
> in any event, hook up the hand pump to the vacuum port and see
> if the valve moves when you apply a vacuum to it. Sounds like you
> are going to find that it won't budge.
> 
> > I'm not totally stupid just not to familiar with these air
> > cond units.
> 
> Heck, no problem. In between our urban legend discussions we do
> try to fix a few cars now and then.  :-)
> 
> -- Andy
> 
> 
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 20:31:36 -0500
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Re: Interior Vinyl Paint

I bought a can of that stuff from Summitt catalog- used it on interior door
panel carpets- they had really faded.  It worked great!

I'd be a bit more concerned putting it on seats or high wear areas....
- -----Original Message-----
From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, November 06, 1998 2:27 AM
Subject: Interior Vinyl Paint


>Does anyone know where s a good place to get interioir vinyl spray paint? I
>know Year One sells it but they are quite expensive...
>
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 20:32:39 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: 403 vs 307 HO Best heads???

Bernie,
If you're asking me, i honestly don't know...

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com
 

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of RCKTPWR@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 1998 9:54 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: 403 vs 307 HO Best heads???


In a message dated 11/5/98 5:43:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
costanzo@netcarrier.com writes:

<< 5a's would probably be good, definitely better than the 7A's from the 86
 307.  I have 7a's (72 350) which are good for a 1.3 point increase in
 compression.
 
 Ray Costanzo >>
Are the 5a's better than the 4's that r on it now??
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 20:26:19 -0500
From: "Rob Lewis" <fever@planeteer.com>
Subject: Re: re:heat

1978 -88 Thanks will check it out.

- ----------
> From: Kyle Roe <karoe@us.ibm.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: re:heat
> Date: Friday, November 06, 1998 7:11 PM
> 
> Forgot what year this was all about. You can get new Heater Control
Valves thru
> our list friend, Greg Rollin, at
> Supercars Unlimited. You can contact them at  888-OLDS442 (order only), 
503-
> 244-8249.
> They also have a web page at www.supercarsunlimited.com
> 
> Kyle
> karoe@us.ibm.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 20:41:55 -0600
From: "Ryan Hehn" <ryanh@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: 86 3.0 V6 to 3.8 swap

Hello,

I'm trying to help a person I work with find a motor for her 86 Lesabre
(same as Delta 88) with a blown 3.0 V/6 (FI).

My question is this: can a 3.8 V/6 of the equivalent vintage be transplanted
into the car easily?  If not, what components would need to swapped in as
well (computer, etc)?

Thanks in advance,

Ryan Hehn
ryanh@mb.sympatico.ca

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 21:46:49 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: 86 3.0 V6 to 3.8 swap

Is this a t-type LeSabre?  If so, tell him/er that it's not worth going
through the trouble of an engine swap and then filter that car down my way
for a RWD Turbo transformation!!
Well, maybe someday I could do that...But I'd still buy the car!
Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com




- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Ryan Hehn
Sent: Friday, November 06, 1998 9:42 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 86 3.0 V6 to 3.8 swap


Hello,

I'm trying to help a person I work with find a motor for her 86 Lesabre
(same as Delta 88) with a blown 3.0 V/6 (FI).

My question is this: can a 3.8 V/6 of the equivalent vintage be transplanted
into the car easily?  If not, what components would need to swapped in as
well (computer, etc)?

Thanks in advance,

Ryan Hehn
ryanh@mb.sympatico.ca

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 21:48:56 EST
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Might be 307 after all...so.......

Well, folks, w/NJ getting strict emissions, I may have to rebuild my 86 442s
307 after all.  Any weak points?  Damn NJ is trying to take all the fun out of
having a modified newer (?) car.  At least cars 25 years and older don't have
to worry about the newer emissions test.    

So my question to all the 307 people, as long as IM going to have it rebuilt,
any weak points to fix?  Id like to go w/ARP hardware at least.  Suggestions??
As always, thanks for the help.

Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 22:01:25 -0500
From: "person" <vbdeveloper@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!(kind of long)

I'd pay "high 8400" for a mint condition everyday!!!!!!!!
=============================

'69 Olds Ninety-Eight Topless Bubba

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
- -----Original Message-----
From: John Young <realtorjohn@sprynet.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, November 06, 1998 12:39 AM
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!(kind of long)


>NADA price guide (as appraisers and supposedly insurance co.s use)
>69 98 2dr conv value range           low 3800  avg 6025  high 8400
>These guys are waaaaay off!
>
>realtorjohn@sprynet.com
>69 442 W-32
>
>----------
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 22:05:20 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: interior vacuum leak?

A few days ago, I got rid of the vacuum ball that is hosed between the carb
and the vent control.  Now, I have what sounds like a constant vacuum leak
coming from the vent control area.  I also, at the same time, hooked the
vent control line to get constant vacuum from the carb.  Anyone know if this
sound is to be expected with these changes?  Thanks y'all

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 22:14:21 -0500
From: "George & Joan C. Lesperance" <gal1@MNSi.Net>
Subject: Re: november jwo

Hi Folks:
  Received my November JWO this morning in the mail..  Nice issue.

Joan & George

HURSTOLDZ@aol.com wrote:

> I didnt get mine yet either

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 20:24:14 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: GK cam choice

All over the place.  I think the intake is leaking.  Reason for is that I
don't really trust the steal one-piece gasket much and that after heads are
milled and block decked, dimensions change and need for better gaskets
arises.  I have a '70 442 intake to put on (stock '76 EGR is there now) and
so I will get a lifter valley tray and some Fel-Pro intake gaskets.  As far
as amount of vacuum, it is pretty high.  Power brakes and all work great.  I
think about 15 inches or so (sound right).  Car runs good but the vac gauge
is shaking.  Also, once under WOT it cut out on me for a sec.  I had this
happen with my 307 once when one of the vacuum hoses melted on the intake.
Someone mentioned that it could be valves.  I don't know but assume that car
would not run as good if valves were the case.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Edward Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, November 06, 1998 1:32 PM
Subject: Re: GK cam choice


>How's your vacuum?
>
>-----Original Message-----
>
>> I think the long stroke Olds will stand more cam than other shorter
>>stroke big engines.
>> [for compairison purposes] The engine in my car now[10.3-1 comp] has a
>>Smith cam, 244/254 @.050, .560"/.545, 108LC. It'll idle at 500 in gear.
>>10mpg, 11.4@119. It pulls hard to 5800.
>>Dave Brode
>>64 Cutlass
>>
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 22:27:10 -0500
From: "person" <vbdeveloper@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Any one looking for Toro parts????

State: New York

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----
Date of Posting: 10-18-98
Email Address: Nuoldsman@aol.com
Description: Parting a 68 Toronado with almost perfect black bucket seat
interior. The driver seat is ripped but the rest of the interior is in very
good condition. Floor shift with center console is in VGC. Black dash has
near mint woodgrain inlay and good chrome. Some good sheetmetal(hood,
decklid) as well as brightwork and bumpers, grilles. The electric antenna
works as does the fm-8 track stereo, the electric windows and the vacuum
operated trunk opener. The drivetrain is in VGC. The engine runs smoothly
and the transmission shifts properly. All the glass is good except the
windshield. It has 4 brand new steelbelted radial tires and possibly the
original spare. It needs balljoints and wheelbearings to pass state
inspection, if anyone was interested in the whole car.
City: St. Louis, MO
State: Missouri
'69 Olds Ninety-Eight Topless Bubba
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ray Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
To: Olds <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Cc: G Body <olds_gbody@listbot.com>
Date: Friday, November 06, 1998 10:06 PM
Subject: interior vacuum leak?


>A few days ago, I got rid of the vacuum ball that is hosed between the carb
>and the vent control.  Now, I have what sounds like a constant vacuum leak
>coming from the vent control area.  I also, at the same time, hooked the
>vent control line to get constant vacuum from the carb.  Anyone know if
this
>sound is to be expected with these changes?  Thanks y'all
>
>Ray Costanzo
>87 409 Cutlass
>Bucks County, PA
>costanzo@netcarrier.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 23:10:10 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Re: november jwo

Can I borrow yours when you're finished with it? Still haven't gotten mine...

>Hi Folks:
>  Received my November JWO this morning in the mail..  Nice issue.
>
>Joan & George
>
>HURSTOLDZ@aol.com wrote:
>
>> I didnt get mine yet either
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 23:22:02 -0500
From: Gasman24 <stulk@bellsouth.net>
Subject: 403

Hi list members,
  Just a quick? question,
 I'm in the process of re-building a Olds 403.
 I have this engine that a buddy gave me, first off I guess it's a 403
around the years '77-'79 'cause it has the dreaded 4A (yes big A) heads,
block is a 4B, also has a big 403 stamped in the side of the block.
Anyway he told me it came out of a pre-'77 T/A (sorry I don't remember
the year).
 But anyway what years was the 403 made? I thought they were made from
'77-'79 is that right?
 Another question, tonight I was taking the engine apart and this thing
has Alu. pistons, did the 403's have this type pistons or has this
engine been re-built before? 
 I've looked at the Olds FAQ and did'nt find anything about Alu.
pistons, all-though I might not have looked in the right place.
 I will say this though, that FAQ is fantastic!
 Thanks for any help!
                     Scott
<stulk@bellsouth.net>
ICQ # 9201151

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 23:22:21 EST
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: New H/O page

Hey, all

Just got my bigger and better '69 H/O site up and running. There is a links
page and a free classified ads page for H/O stuff, too.

Jon

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 22:26:21 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 86 3.0 V6 to 3.8 swap

Ryan,
Unless this guy wants to sink a chunk of change into this car the swap
won't be worth it to do.  Figure on changing not only the computer but
every sensor in the car and the wiring harness.  Can be done but takes
a lot of time to get everything right.  And thats just to get it to run, not
counting whether or not it will bolt in and modifying accessories to
bolt up, etc.  All in all it's a chore and not really worth the time.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>Hello,
>
>I'm trying to help a person I work with find a motor for her 86 Lesabre
>(same as Delta 88) with a blown 3.0 V/6 (FI).
>
>My question is this: can a 3.8 V/6 of the equivalent vintage be
transplanted
>into the car easily?  If not, what components would need to swapped in as
>well (computer, etc)?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Ryan Hehn
>ryanh@mb.sympatico.ca
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 23:30:08 -0500
From: "Poppy30" <Poppy30@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: 403

All pistons are alu. difference is cast or forged.Factory pistons are
cast,aftermarket perf. are forged.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gasman24 <stulk@bellsouth.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, November 06, 1998 11:13 PM
Subject: 403


>Hi list members,
>  Just a quick? question,
> I'm in the process of re-building a Olds 403.
> I have this engine that a buddy gave me, first off I guess it's a 403
>around the years '77-'79 'cause it has the dreaded 4A (yes big A) heads,
>block is a 4B, also has a big 403 stamped in the side of the block.
>Anyway he told me it came out of a pre-'77 T/A (sorry I don't remember
>the year).
> But anyway what years was the 403 made? I thought they were made from
>'77-'79 is that right?
> Another question, tonight I was taking the engine apart and this thing
>has Alu. pistons, did the 403's have this type pistons or has this
>engine been re-built before?
> I've looked at the Olds FAQ and did'nt find anything about Alu.
>pistons, all-though I might not have looked in the right place.
> I will say this though, that FAQ is fantastic!
> Thanks for any help!
>                     Scott
><stulk@bellsouth.net>
>ICQ # 9201151

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 23:34:47 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: New H/O page

HEY???????????


DID YOU FORGET TO TELL US THE LINK TO FIND YOUR NEW IMPROVED H/O PAGE?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 22:36:24 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: wmachine; there are real racers here

Greg Rollin wrote:

> Shane wrote:
> > Sorry, no pics I can send yet. Want to get a scanner soon, any 
suggestions, anybody?
> > I had the car back halved  in K.C. at Star Chassis - 913-262-8038 (just a 
little plug
> > for Larry, he does GREAT work). It's got a narrowed 9", 4-link w/ wisbone, 
coil-over
> > shocks, Mark Williams aluminum pumpkin and 40 spline gun barrel drilled 
axles, 4.88
> > gears, Wilwood discs all around, 16.5 x 32 slicks, Weld Alumi-Star wheels 
12 point cage,
> > sheet metal floor from firewall to behind seat, the rest, to the rear 
bumper is all
> > polished aluminum.  Fiberglass hood, scoop and bumpers What is not hand 
built in the
> > rear chassis is all Competition Engineering stuff. It weighs in at about 
2750 lbs.
> > Hoping for low to mid 9's.
> >
> > Shane Gibreal
>
> Quite impressive specs indeed!  Can't wait to see the pics.
> I'd say you have the potential of having the quickest Rocket
> on the list!
> In what forum do you plan on competing in?
> Brackets, shoot outs, Super Gas?
>
>
> Greg Rollin
> Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
> 503-244-8249
> http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
> E-mail: supercars@transport.com

  Greg,

Thanks! Impressive parts are one thing, getting it all to work right will be 
another.
I want to be able to run S/G, but here at the local track it would just run in 
what they call
Super Pro, it's just brackets for the faster cars.

Shane

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 23:37:45 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: november jwo

I heard that there seems to be some unrest at OCA.   I hear that the chief
editor stepped down.


If it is true ...     what a damn shame.


In the words of Rodney King,  "Can't we all just get along???"


Vinny
68 H/O
62 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 22:36:32 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 403

Scott,
All pistons are aluminum, it's just a matter of how they're made
as in cast vs forged.  Forged is naturally stronger and it's kind of
hard to tell the difference between the two without knowing.  Most
stockers came with cast pistons unless they were high performance.
Don't know about 403's but would assume they were cast.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

> Another question, tonight I was taking the engine apart and this thing
>has Alu. pistons, did the 403's have this type pistons or has this
>engine been re-built before? 
> I've looked at the Olds FAQ and did'nt find anything about Alu.
>pistons, all-though I might not have looked in the right place.
> I will say this though, that FAQ is fantastic!
> Thanks for any help!
>                     Scott
><stulk@bellsouth.net>
>ICQ # 9201151
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 22:38:19 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: New H/O page

So where's the page?  Must have been a long day.
MikeB

>Hey, all
>
>Just got my bigger and better '69 H/O site up and running. There is a links
>page and a free classified ads page for H/O stuff, too.
>
>Jon

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 23:42:00 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: New H/O page

His link is 

www.69ho.com

Pretty on the mark, don't you think???

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 20:39:28 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Olds/Porsche

Came across an interesting site from across the pond
tonight:    

http://www.movit.de/htm/oldsmob.htm



 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 00:17:00 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Carburetor Question

Can anyone please identify the following Quadrajet carb for me:

17057253

I got it out of a junkyard this afternoon, but off a shelf, so I 
don't know the origin.  Thanks.

Jason K. Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-mail: jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 00:32:50 EST
From: Socalolds@aol.com
Subject: Re: Non-Olds:  Useful Info for Speeding Tickets

Tim,
I like that suggestion. Hope I never have to use it. But I have kids, and you
know how they are.
Thanks
Dennis

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 00:14:20 -0600 (CST)
From: blue442@webtv.net
Subject: Vinyl dye info

In response to Peter's question about vinyl paint, I bought some of this
dye from Year One.  Good stuff.  The manufacturer is Authentic Metro
Finishes. (800)-878-3378  I called quite a while back and asked them to
send me more of Year One's blend.  They wouldn't. They did offer to
match any sample I sent them, though and  I thought that was very
respectable. Year One did send me what I believe to be a very close, if
not exact match to original.  If memory serves, Metro had a very good
price.  If you want black, go to your local parts store.  If not, don't
waste your time. call Year One or Metro.

BTW- Isn't .080" a little extreme fo a plug gap? I have a Mallory coil
and I believe they only recommended up to .045" for ignition system
longevity. 
Jeff Carter

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 22:09:40 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: wmachine; there are real racers here

Shane wrote:

>   Greg,
> 
> Thanks! Impressive parts are one thing, getting it all to work right will be 
another.
> I want to be able to run S/G, but here at the local track it would just run 
in what they call
> Super Pro, it's just brackets for the faster cars.
> 
> Shane


Granted, simply an assemblage of parts offers no guarantee 
of success.  But careful component selection, assembly and
preparation will make it much easier to dial in the setup.
Sounds like you're on the right track.

Now then, whadda ya mean by "just brackets"?  :-)   

In my opinion, Super/Pro is at least as tough of a category 
to succeed in as Super/Gas.  In Super/Gas (with a few 
exceptions) most cars are running in the same MPH range.
Whereas in Super/Pro, there is often as much as a 50+ MPH
difference between the two cars.  Thereby making the finish
line much more difficult to judge for both drivers.    
I also feel in Super/Pro with the handicap start, that more 
starting line concentration is required. Super/Pro handicaps
are often measured in full seconds.  As opposed to both
drivers
leaving on the same pro tree light in Super/Gas.
  In all honesty, I feel that bracket racing hones ones
skills
as a driver better than any other (non-professional)
category.
(Ok, ok, Stock Eliminator and Super Stock drivers must
possess the
same driving skills of a bracket racer). 

See our Super/Pro 1967 4-4-2 at:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com/photos/stable.html

 
Greg (I love bracket racing) Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 01:41:34 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Carburetor Question

Jason Adcock wrote:

> Can anyone please identify the following Quadrajet carb for me:
>
> 17057253
>
> I got it out of a junkyard this afternoon, but off a shelf, so I
> don't know the origin.  Thanks.

        170--Rochester Products          57--1977
            2--49 State application, i.e., non-California
            5--Oldsmobile
            3--Manual Transmission (not sure which one, though)

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jan 1980 00:08:11 +0000
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Pipe Expander??

looking in the various tool catalogs yield cal-van making them in variuos
sizes up to 4"as well as KD lisle craftsman snap-on,  mac,  matco, various
generic brands including buffalo pittsburg and a few others any parts or
tool supplier should be able to get you one.......KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, November 06, 1998 11:19 PM
Subject: Re: Exhaust Pipe Expander??


>At 10:55 AM 11/6/98 -0500, you wrote:
>>
>>Among the innumerable catalogs I receive I recall seeing someone offering
>>a mandrel (bolt operated) for expanding the ends of exhaust pipes.. Now,
no
>>can find.
>>Anyone recall seeing this item? I need to fix my 3" true duals on the
>>Cutlass.
>
>try JC-Whittney or  HarborFrieght
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jan 1980 00:14:02 +0000
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Interior Vinyl Paint

gentalmen use the good stuff try PPG/Ditzler you spray it on with a gun
comes in quarts most common colors pretty good stuff....KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, November 06, 1998 7:31 AM
Subject: Interior Vinyl Paint


>Does anyone know where s a good place to get interioir vinyl spray paint? I
>know Year One sells it but they are quite expensive...
>
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jan 1980 00:16:24 +0000
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: interior vacuum leak?

the control for the vents is vacuum controlled and it needs to be replaced
tell your local GM parts dude and they will hook you up...KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ray Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
To: Olds <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Cc: G Body <olds_gbody@listbot.com>
Date: Saturday, November 07, 1998 3:06 AM
Subject: interior vacuum leak?


>A few days ago, I got rid of the vacuum ball that is hosed between the carb
>and the vent control.  Now, I have what sounds like a constant vacuum leak
>coming from the vent control area.  I also, at the same time, hooked the
>vent control line to get constant vacuum from the carb.  Anyone know if
this
>sound is to be expected with these changes?  Thanks y'all
>
>Ray Costanzo
>87 409 Cutlass
>Bucks County, PA
>costanzo@netcarrier.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 00:53:10 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Oscillating Vacuum

Okay guys.  I have a problem with my 455 that the vacuum gauge is shaking
(oscillating).  Some of you mention that valves might be a problem.  My
valvetrain is stock with redone heads and new rockers.  I bolted them down
to 35 ft-lb (I believe).  Could this be valves.  What about vacuum leak
(especially at intake).  I am getting worried here.  If it is the problem
with valves, what do I do to fix it and what will it do if I leave it.  The
valves are not adjustable, so how do I fix the problem.  I once had the car
cut out on my at WOT around 3000 rpm for a sec.  I suspected vacuum leak
cause this happened to me on my 307.  Could it be valves.  What could cause
a motor to cut out like that.  It did not stall or anything, just cut out,
like as if I pulled my foot off the gas.  Could this be fuel starve.  I am
confused.  Please Help.  Motor is still new and I don't want any damage to
it.  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 02:05:48 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Technical Question:MotorSpecs

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BE09F3.23084500
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

OK, this question is for all those who know engine buildup technical
information: 455 Motor

With the mains torqued down and dial gauge was used to check the main
bores. Between horizontal and vertical checking locations the readings were
3.1875 - 3.1880 off. Is this crutial or within limits?

My main housing bore diamater was 3.1875 - 3.1880. 
My crankshaft (0.010-) diameter is 2.989.
Does this leave me with .0015 - .0020" main bearing clearnce?





Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BE09F3.23084500
Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF"><p><font size=3D2 =
color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Arial">OK, this question is for all those who =
know engine buildup technical information: 455 Motor<br><br>With the =
mains torqued down and dial gauge was used to check the main bores. =
Between horizontal and vertical checking locations the readings were =
3.1875 - 3.1880 off. <b>Is this crutial or within limits?</b><br><br>My =
main housing bore diamater was 3.1875 - 3.1880. <br>My crankshaft =
(0.010-) diameter is 2.989.<br><b>Does this leave me with .0015 - =
.0020&quot; main bearing clearnce?<br><br><br><br></b><br><br><font =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>Pettrix@prodigy.net</u><font =
color=3D"#000000"><br><br></p>
</font></font></font></body></html>
- ------=_NextPart_000_01BE09F3.23084500--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 02:34:29 -0600
From: Shang <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: Vinyl dye info

Speaking of vinyl dye - anyone have any suggestions for painting
interior plastic? I have an ivy gold interior and I want to get new arm
rest bases which only come in black. Would this be a hard color to
match?


Thanks

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 02:35:55 -0600
From: Shang <shang@connect.net>
Subject: BB Cams

Anyone running a Comp Cam 280H or a W-31 cam in a big-block(455)? Please
respond privately - I am interested in your thoughts on idle
characteristics and driveability.

Thanks

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 03:00:27 -0600
From: Shang <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: Technical Question:MotorSpecs

Peter Landowski wrote:
> 
> OK, this question is for all those who know engine buildup technical
> information: 455 Motor
> 
> With the mains torqued down and dial gauge was used to check the main
> bores. Between horizontal and vertical checking locations the readings
> were 3.1875 - 3.1880 off. Is this crutial or within limits?
> 
> My main housing bore diamater was 3.1875 - 3.1880.
> My crankshaft (0.010-) diameter is 2.989.
> Does this leave me with .0015 - .0020" main bearing clearnce?
> 
> Pettrix@prodigy.net



According to the Mondello tech manual, The Main Bearing Bore (I.D.)
should be 3.188 - 3.189, which makes some of your bores (you didn't
mention specific bore readings) off by 0.0005 too small. Mondello's
measurements do not go out this far, so I am thinking that it should be
ok, but I would be curious as to why they are off, line honeing should
have made them all the same. Crank diameter should be 2.9903 - 2.9893,
(for 0.010 under) so you fall into specs on the loose side. Bearing
clearences should be .0005 - .0021, again you fall into specs toward the
loose side. This motor should spin really well.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 06:43:19 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Oscillating Vacuum

Igor,
First off, your vacuum will oscillate some due to how much cam you put
in it when you rebuilt it.  The more "lump" at idle the more the
oscillation.
You also didn't mention how much of a range it oscillates.  To check to
see if the valves are hanging open due to the valvetrain simply check
the valve lash with a feeler gauge.  If this was the case, you would most
likely have the motor "popping" back through the intake or exhaust.  This
can be corrected through shorter pushrods and/or shims under the
pedestals.  As far as it cutting out, if it's only happened once then its
probably just a carb hiccup.  Wouldn't read to much into it unless it starts
doing it again.  As far as vacuum leak you can try spraying carb cleaner
where the heads and intake mate together but this wouldn't do much for
the underside of the intake if thats where your leak is.  If you do have a
leak, depending on how severe it is, you will be running lean.  You could
also have a vacuum leak somewhere else so you could try disconnecting
all the vacuum lines and plugging them and try the vacuum gauge again.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>Okay guys.  I have a problem with my 455 that the vacuum gauge is shaking
>(oscillating).  Some of you mention that valves might be a problem.  My
>valvetrain is stock with redone heads and new rockers.  I bolted them down
>to 35 ft-lb (I believe).  Could this be valves.  What about vacuum leak
>(especially at intake).  I am getting worried here.  If it is the problem
>with valves, what do I do to fix it and what will it do if I leave it.  The
>valves are not adjustable, so how do I fix the problem.  I once had the car
>cut out on my at WOT around 3000 rpm for a sec.  I suspected vacuum leak
>cause this happened to me on my 307.  Could it be valves.  What could cause
>a motor to cut out like that.  It did not stall or anything, just cut out,
>like as if I pulled my foot off the gas.  Could this be fuel starve.  I am
>confused.  Please Help.  Motor is still new and I don't want any damage to
>it.  Thanks.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 09:27:09 EST
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Re: New H/O page

In a message dated 11/6/98 10:41:38 PM Central Standard Time,
mbloomer@gateway.net writes:

<< So where's the page?  Must have been a long day.
 MikeB >>

Oops... long day is right. The link is www.69ho.com.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 09:25:18 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: november jwo

Still waitin' on mine.  Approaching rumpelstiltskin threshold.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: George & Joan C. Lesperance <gal1@MNSi.Net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, November 06, 1998 10:16 PM
Subject: Re: november jwo


>Hi Folks:
>  Received my November JWO this morning in the mail..  Nice issue.
>
>Joan & George
>
>HURSTOLDZ@aol.com wrote:
>
>> I didnt get mine yet either
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 09:31:04 EST
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Suspension Springs-- Rec's needed

Have discovered that the springs on the front of my '67 Cutlass Supreme
convert are in need of replacing. Need a set of springs pronto, and need a
nicely done--read powder coated--set to complement my detailed suspension and
frame.

Looking for recommendations from the list as to quality, price and
availability.

Will springs from any GM '66-7 A body work well? Am very near to OPG, and they
have springs for Chevelle and Lemans/GTO. Substantial differences?

TIA-
Peter
Coupeking@aol.com
San Pedro, CA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 09:55:06 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: Childs&Albert Gapless Rings

I used these 'Gaples' rings by Total Seal on my Chevy and they work awesome!
I did a compression check after installation and got 200psi per cylinder.
When I rebuild my Olds I will by a set even though it will not be an all out
performance rings.  If it can improve the efficiency of the motor, use it.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net

>Peter Landowski wrote:
>
>> I was looking on getting a set of rings for my 455. Does anyone out there
>> ever had any experience with the Childs & Albert ZGTF piston rings? These
>> are the zero gap rings that are supposed to seal better than any file fit
>> rings because there is no ring gap with the zero gap ring. Is this good
for
>> street use? Will they last as long as normal plasma moly file fit rings?
>>
>> Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>
>I put a set in my '67 Cutlass 455. Only have 1500 miles on it since rebuild
but
>so far everything is great. When hot, leakdown is between 1 and 3%.
Basicaly
>they are the same as a normal file to fit moly ring except they have two
thin
>dyke(?) rings that go above and below one of the normal rings to make a
more
>complete seal. I've heard that they are actually better for street car than
>race car, can't remember why, just what I was told or read or something.
They
>should last just as long since they're basicaly the same thing other than
the
>dyke(?) rings.
>
>NOTE; everyone be sure to inspect all moly rings closley, one of mine had
the
>moly chipped of on one edge of the ring. I called C&A and they sent a new
one
>next day.
>
>Shane Gibreal

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 08:59:25 -0600 (CST)
From: blue442@webtv.net
Subject: Re: Vinyl dye info

Stephen,
The same company also makes an aerosol paint for plastic.  Call Year One
or Metro.  I think you can match the black parts if you use a primer
base.

Jeff Carter
Lubbock TX
68 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 10:13:40 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: Interior Vinyl Paint

Car Quest sells the same brand as Eastwood for a couple bucks cheaper.  I
have had great luck with thier interior vinyl spray paint.  It is amazing
that you can actually paint your interior without it chipping!  I can't
remember the brand Eastwood sells but it is the only brand I have used and
with great success.  The important part is to prep the surface.  I wipe down
the area with laquer thinner let dry then paint tack coat(real light, just
enough to cover the surface) followed by two medium coats.  Good Luck.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>
>Does anyone know where s a good place to get interioir vinyl spray paint? I
>know Year One sells it but they are quite expensive...
>
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 07:56:33 -0800
From: "Mike Aldana" <maldana@inreach.com>
Subject: 1966 Cutlass parts  (must clean up storage)  

After cleaning out my storage,  i found i still had some items that might be
of interest to 1966 owners.  Parts from a 1966 Cutlass, (no 442 parts)

air cleaner $20.00
rh rear wheel trim $15.00
rh door trim $20.00
lh door trim $20.00
radio am pushbutton   works $25.00
console missing door    $40.00
vacuum gauge for console  $25.00

1968 rocker mouldings $35.00 ea.
other trim pieces for 1966 on hand.....
shipping extra
please email me direct      thanks      maldana@inreach.com
PS. still doing the chromework, script reproduction, and polishing.....

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 11:41:55 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: interior vacuum leak?

>A few days ago, I got rid of the vacuum ball that is hosed between the carb
>and the vent control.

Umm.....why? That canister stores vacuum for the vent control system because
manifold vacuum varies too much. There's a check valve in it to keep vacuum
from leaking back to the manifold during low vac conditions.

>Now, I have what sounds like a constant vacuum leak
>coming from the vent control area.

Well....duh.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 11:27:34 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: 403 vs 307 HO Best heads???

>
>Actually the 4's have a 60 cc chamber and the 5a's have a 67cc chamber.
>On a stock 403 this would give you a 10.0 and a 9.37 CR, respectively.



I assumed this was refering to 4A's (stock 403 heads) which are 80 cc's.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 11:36:43 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: New Member/please help

>Hi all,
>I have been looking for this sort of mailing list for some time.  I
>recently became the proud new owner of an '86 Cutlass Supreme Brougham.


>1.  It has a 307 with the standard 4 bbl. carb.  the engine has 135k
>miles on it but the trans is new.  For some reason, I only get 11 mpg on
>the highway and I shudder to think about my city mpg.

Something's broke. See Mike R's post about checking engine codes. Betcha the
Mixture Control Solenoid isn't working - that'll make the carb run really
rich.

>Also, will a Monte Carlo 305 4 bbl carb fit on my car?

Depends on what year. Needs to be an electronic controlled one like your 86.
My brother had an 84 Camaro with a 305, his carb was interchangeable with my
85 Delta, except the choke was electric instead of hot-air. The throttle
position sensor (inside the carb) was also not the same resistance value,
but swappable.


drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 14:43:30 EST
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: november jwo

peter....
didn't get mine yet either.

jeff....

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 13:10:02 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: 69ho.com

> Oops... long day is right. The link is http://www.69ho.com.

Hey, great page!  Just scanned through the tests section...  Pretty cool 
stuff! 
Never heard the 455 being 10-12 lbs lighter than the 400.  Wonder what that's
about.....  Alum intake, maybe?  

Couple quick comments, the spotter's guide is a dead link, and the Hot Rod
testdrive is boasting a "1.05:1" compression ratio...  No wonder it doesn't
ping!!!  ;)

I wonder how many hits you'll get, looking for porn :-o  Oh well, they'll be
pleasantly suprised :)

- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 15:29:36 EST
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69ho.com

In a message dated 11/7/98 2:10:46 PM Central Standard Time, buehner@lyrea.com
writes:

<< Hey, great page!  Just scanned through the tests section...  Pretty cool
stuff! 
 Never heard the 455 being 10-12 lbs lighter than the 400.  Wonder what that's
 about.....  Alum intake, maybe?  

Hi, Charley... thanks for the kind words. About the 455 being lighter...
bigger holes in the block?? They didn't use an aluminum intake, they were
steel.
 
 Couple quick comments, the spotter's guide is a dead link, and the Hot Rod
 testdrive is boasting a "1.05:1" compression ratio...  No wonder it doesn't
 ping!!!  ;)

Thanks.... I'll fix those tonight.
 
 I wonder how many hits you'll get, looking for porn :-o  Oh well, they'll be
 pleasantly suprised :)

Maybe quite a few. I got more than 50 hits overnight. And my server at first
didn't want to let me have the page because he thought it was a porn page :)
  >>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 12:23:20 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: 1969 W-32

I seem to recall someone on the List owns a
1969 W-32.  Please contact me.

Thanks.

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 13:21:56 -0800
From: babyboo@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Interior? Color?

If you contact YEAR ONE and ask for a color sample, they will be more than 
happy
to send you one. I got my seat covers and carpet from them and awas most
satsified. Hope this clears things up.

CPEARLPARK@aol.com wrote:

> Doug,
>
> Have seen this question before and have taken note as I'm considering the 
same
> project for my 71 442.  The consensus on the list seems to be to go with
> YearOne for quality, but The Parts Place also seems to have a real good
> selection with some colors that YearOne doesn't advertise. I don't know how
> many different _manufacturers_ there would be for this stuff, but there are
> plenty of distributors.  I think Parts might send you a sample but don't know
> if Year would. Give em a call.  Can't handle your saddle question...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 13:23:49 -0800
From: babyboo@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: buying car

OOOh I'm jelious, Why don't I ever find steals like this? Well good luck Mike.

Mikeytvb@aol.com wrote:

> i found a car i'm probably going to buy.  it's a 1970 442 w/ram air, spoiler,
> ss 2's, and 4.11 rear end.  the guy is asking 2650 but he said he would take
> 2100 cash.  i'll have to let you guys know this weekend if i do buy it.  hey
> if i'm lucky, it might be a 4 speed.  the ad doesn't say and i forgot to ask
> him.  oh well.
>
> mikeytvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 13:38:41 -0800
From: babyboo@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: buying car

Ya DEL, That's all I got also. Thought I did something wrong.

Rock Man wrote:

> > the guy says it's a daily driver.  there is a picture of it at this
> location.
> >
> > http://www.geocities.com/rainforest/canopy/4535/442.html
> -------------------------------------------------------
>
> Does anyone else get a page full of jumble when they try to access
> that site?
> ==
> Rock-Man's Page
> http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> rockman20@yahoo.com
> 1986 Honda Accord DX
> 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
> 1981 John Deer Snowmobile
> 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 16:18:42 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Olds/Porsche

Greg,
Is that an Olds or Mark Martin's Martinsville/Richmond short track car?
Wow!
Lou

> From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>

> Came across an interesting site from across the pond
> tonight:    
> http://www.movit.de/htm/oldsmob.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 16:22:02 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Vinyl dye info

Jeff, 
75 350 has HEI and .080 plug gap, run platinum's, work great.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net


> From: blue442@webtv.net

> BTW- Isn't .080" a little extreme fo a plug gap? I have a Mallory coil
> and I believe they only recommended up to .045" for ignition system
> longevity. 
> Jeff Carter

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 16:41:13 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Olds/Porsche

Yeow!  Followed thier link to thier US/Canada distributor.  They mentioned
"affordable" so I checked out the prices.  The only link that worked was for
BMW but they were in the $2700 range.  Think I'll still plan on the Baer
Claws!
Gotta admit it was pretty trick with the coil overs and all.

MikeB

>Greg,
>Is that an Olds or Mark Martin's Martinsville/Richmond short track car?
>Wow!
>Lou
>
>> From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
>
>> Came across an interesting site from across the pond
>> tonight:
>> http://www.movit.de/htm/oldsmob.htm
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 17:01:26 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Childs&Albert Gapless Rings

To all, 
On the Pro Stock race Hemi's, we had a leak down rate of 3 to 7 %. The low
readings were with the rings seated and ready to race. Thats damn good, we
ran real smooth bores, fine hone, wish we would have had those rings back
then. I'm sold!
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

> Subject: Re: Childs&Albert Gapless Rings
> Date: Saturday, November 07, 1998 8:55 AM
> 
> I used these 'Gaples' rings by Total Seal on my Chevy and they work
awesome!
> I did a compression check after installation and got 200psi per cylinder.
> When I rebuild my Olds I will by a set even though it will not be an all
out
> performance rings.  If it can improve the efficiency of the motor, use
it.
> 
> Jim Brady
> 1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
(snip)
>I put a set in my '67 Cutlass 455. Only have 1500 miles on it since
rebuild
> but
> >so far everything is great. When hot, leakdown is between 1 and 3%.
> Basicaly
> >they are the same as a normal file to fit moly ring except they have two
> thin
> >dyke(?) rings that go above and below one of the normal rings to make a
> more
> >complete seal. I've heard that they are actually better for street car
than
> >race car, can't remember why, just what I was told or read or something.
> They
> >should last just as long since they're basicaly the same thing other
than
> the
> >dyke(?) rings.
> >
> >NOTE; everyone be sure to inspect all moly rings closley, one of mine
had
> the
> >moly chipped of on one edge of the ring. I called C&A and they sent a
new
> one
> >next day.
> >
> >Shane Gibreal

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 18:14:39 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69ho.com

In a message dated 11/7/98
 2:<BR10:<BR50 PM Central Standard Tim, buehner@lyrea.com writes:> Hey, great
page!  Just scanned through the tests section...  Pretty cool 
> stuff! 
>  Never heard the 455 being 10-12 lbs lighter than the 400.  Wonder what
that's
 > about.....  Alum intake, maybe? 

Well, if my memory serves, 55 cu in of cast iron weighs about 16 lbs. If the
casting is the same, the difference in bore could do it (I know that the extra
55 in. is not all in the bore, but maybe 12 lbs is :-)

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 18:32:52 -0500
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <tjacquillard@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: Olds/Porsche

mbloomer wrote:
> 
> Yeow!  Followed thier link to thier US/Canada distributor.  They mentioned
> "affordable" so I checked out the prices.  The only link that worked was for
> BMW but they were in the $2700 range.  
(snip)
I followed the link through the international link and the kit they had
listed for 'f' bodies was $2200. Still too rich for my blood. 
T.J.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 18:38:42 EST
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Emissions  307 vs 403

I m very curious, how do u think a fresh 403 would be compared to a fresh
307??  Id really like to put the 403 in my 86,442. Im just very concerned
about passing emission here in Jersey. How could I clean up the emissions
anyway?  Better Ignition?? 

TIA

Bernie

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1593
*********************************

