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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1541


oldsmobile-digest       Friday, October 9 1998       Volume 01 : Number 1541



RE: non-olds..
Re: Olds and Holley
Re: 10-bolt rears
Re: 69 Cutlass grill color
Re: Tranny Shop in New England Needed
Fw: 1974 Oldsmobile Service Manual
Re: 69 Cutlass grill color
Rocket talk
Re: POR-15
RE: Rocket talk
re:rear axle ratio
Re: One mans conquest with an Oldsmobile.
Re: 10-bolt rears
Messages
Re: Don't talk smack, boy!! (Re: RocketTalk tomorrow?)
1970 Cutlass Convertible for sale
torque converter
Re: Olds and Holley
Re: 1970 Vista Cruiser info
Re: 68-72 A Body Heater Cores
Re: Chicago Tribune 10/8/1998 Cars Section
Re: A body Motor Stance
Re: torque converter
Re: Cam selection, 455
RE: Rally Pack -- definition wanted
Re: 10-bolt rears
Re: torque converter
Re: 1970 Cutlass Convertible for sale
Re: 68-72 Cutlass Inner (Upper?) Trailing Arm Size
Re: A body Motor Stance
Re: 10-bolt rears
200 mph
Re: Intro to the Rockit!
(no subject)
Re: 200 mph
Re: 10-bolt rears
Re: A body Motor Stance
Rocket Talk?!?!? Where?
Re: ADMIN: How to Turn HTML Off?
Re: ADMIN: How to Turn HTML Off?
Re: 10-bolt rears
Re: Chicago Tribune 10/8/1998 Cars Section
Re: Rocket Talk?!?!? Where?
Re: 10-bolt rears
Re: Chicago Tribune 10/8/1998 Cars Section
Re: One mans conquest with an Oldsmobile.
Re: 1970 Vista Cruiser info
rear end codes
Looking for 15'' wheels for 85
Re: Chicago Tribune 10/8/1998 Cars Section
Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)
Re: Chicago Tribune 10/8/1998 Cars Section
Re: A body Motor Stance
Re: Olds and Holley
Re: Chicago Tribune 10/8/1998 Cars Section
Should I or shouldn't I pull that windshield....
Re: Chicago Tribune 10/8/1998 Cars Section
Re: Chicago Tribune 10/8/1998 Cars Section
Re: Chicago Tribune 10/8/1998 Cars Section
Re: Chicago Tribune 10/8/1998 Cars Section
Re: Chicago Tribune 10/8/1998 Cars Section
Wrinkle in 1976 carb search! (Roch-related)
OLDS HOMEPAGE!!!
Oil Pans

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 21:31:04 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: non-olds..

Lauren engineering I believe

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
  
'86 Couse Custom Cutlass IROC-SS = "Quincy"

<>-----Original Message-----
<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Steve C
<>Sent: Sunday, October 04, 1998 8:21 PM
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<>Subject: Re: non-olds..
<>
<>
<>I own a 1985 Olds 442, I would like to install a rear spoiler from a 83 or
<>84 hurst Olds. Does anybody know of where  can purchase an original rear
<>spoiler
<>-----Original Message-----
<>From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
<>Date: Saturday, October 03, 1998 10:02 PM
<>Subject: Re: non-olds..
<>
<>
<>>absolutely
<>>
<>>JJP442@aol.com wrote:
<>>>
<>>> Art,
<>>> Plannin' on scammin' a few extra miles?
<>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 20:30:33 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Re: Olds and Holley

Lou Biggs wrote:
>
> Stephen,
> Being an old Mopar guy, some 340 eng used a Carter carb called a
> Thermo-Quad. Had a plastic float bowl assy. looked like Bakelite. A couple
> of Years only.
> Lou Biggs
> lbiggs@intertek.net
> ----------
> > From: Stephen Hoover <shang@wans.net>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: Olds and Holley
> >
> > According to Edelbrock, some Chrysler's used the Q-Jet in something
> > called a Thermo-Quad setup.


Well like I said acording to Edelbrock :) I am NOT a mopar information
source. Thanks for the info, those of you who responded.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 21:39:08 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: 10-bolt rears

Igor, How do you like the 3.23's on your 455 Delta?  I have a 71 455 4-4-2
with something in the high 3's or even low 4's and it's really getting on my
nerves. It's just the wrong rear end for me.  I want to cruise comfortable and
quiet at 65-75, but want plenty left over if I nail it, like my Dad's old 71
Riviera.  What would you guys suggest?  What were the options on gears in 71?
How can I tell for sure what I have without going through the spin and count
routine we heard about a few weeks ago?  Is there a number somewhere
underneath?

Scott

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 21:40:49 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 Cutlass grill color

Would that color work well for 71?  Also, is the center of the grill just
plain flat black or was it some sort of semi-gloss?

Scott

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 21:55:11 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tranny Shop in New England Needed

Hey Tim!  I'm in Westborough.  Know of any good mechanics in the area? How
'bout body guys and someone who'd be interested in doing a body-off on my
frame?

Scott
71 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 22:06:31 -0400
From: "person" <vbdeveloper@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Fw: 1974 Oldsmobile Service Manual

Hey maybe someone is looking for one....
=============================

'69 Olds Ninety-Eight "Topless Bubba"
- -----Original Message-----
From: Donald Campbell <castles@jps.net>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
Date: Tuesday, October 06, 1998 10:14 PM
Subject: FS: 1974 Oldsmobile Service Manual


>For sale 1974 Oldsmobile service manual for all series. Published by
Service
>Department, Oldsmobile Division, General Motors Corporation, Lansing, MI.
>I used this book to service my Olds Toronado which I no longer have. It is
in
>very good condition. $20 plus buyer pays for book rate shipping. Please
e-mail
>me if you are interested. Thanks,     Don Campbell
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 22:06:08 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: 69 Cutlass grill color

> Would that color work well for 71?  Also, is the center of the grill just
> plain flat black or was it some sort of semi-gloss?

71 Cutlass grilles were silver (argent).

Assuming it's a 442, it was a low sheen black.  Like a natural black
plastic.  ALMOST flat, but not quite.  Eastwood's underhood black does
wonders on matching well with it, as long as you don't spray too much
and too close.

The Krylon dull aluminum works very well on the 71 grille outer surround
as well.  And the numerals were painted flat black with chrome edge
showing, (72 was flat red) although the repros are glossier.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 22:51:39 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Rocket talk

What? No talkers?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 22:54:43 EDT
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Re: POR-15

james
      por15 is very good stuff  . a tip  put a piece of saran wrap over the
inside of the can  befor you put the lid on  otherwise you will never get it
open again, and wear plastic gloves
                               jim mckeague

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 23:04:59 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Rocket talk

Hell, I couldn't even get past the login screen...   The Rocket Don't talk
site

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
  
'86 Couse Custom Cutlass IROC-SS = "Quincy"

<>-----Original Message-----
<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Mark Hahn
<>Sent: Thursday, October 08, 1998 10:52 PM
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<>Subject: Rocket talk
<>
<>
<>What? No talkers?
<>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 23:09:04 -0400
From: Kyle Roe <karoe@us.ibm.com>
Subject: re:rear axle ratio

The 3:23s in my '70 vertible are just fine (std. w/455 w/ac). Anyway, there is
a 2 digit code on the right side(passenger side) rear axle housing. It should
be 12" or so from the diff and stamped on the tube. Look for 2 letters about 1"
- - 1.5" high.  If you got rust, you might not see 'em anymore. Spinnin and
countin aint so bad as that is a better way anyway since someone could have
changed housings, or ratios on you and the code dont relate to whats inside.
Let us know.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 23:17:29 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: One mans conquest with an Oldsmobile.

JJP442@aol.com wrote:
>
> I just had the pleasure of replacing the water pump in my 87
> 442.................
> IS THERE ANYTHING OLDSMOBILE DIDN'T BOLT TO THE FRONT OF THAT DAMN
> THING!!!!!!!!!!!!

Been there done that...

Try putting it back together pissed, drunk, and out of cigarettes.
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 21:33:00 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 10-bolt rears

The 3.23s are OKAY.  They accelerate decent and I can live with them on the
high-way.  75 mph is about 3000 rpm with my 26" tall tires.  With my cam it
tops out at 4500 rpm ASAP (I think about 110 or so).  The 4.10s on my van
(big tires though) are absolute crap on the highway.  The 360, even thought
smaller is much worse as far as fuel economy.  When it used to have 3.23s
(girlfriends dad), he could get 18 mpg.  Now, 10 if you are lucky. 4.10s =
Ear-bleeding RPM and not much top speed.  Something like 3000 at 55 or so.
Good off the line though and lots of towing power.

If the Riviera was a FWD, it was probably a 3.08.  This is what you would
like, I think.  The 2.41s were great on the highway (with 307 in Delta), but
nothing off the line.  Stock, I think the 442s came with 3.91 rears, but
with short 14-inch tires it would spin and feel like 4's with my tires (they
are still relatively short.  255/60/15 BFGoodrich)
If you have the option codes, you can tell.  Other then that, pull the cover
and look, then use silicon and put the cover back on.


>Igor, How do you like the 3.23's on your 455 Delta?  I have a 71 455 4-4-2
>with something in the high 3's or even low 4's and it's really getting on
my
>nerves. It's just the wrong rear end for me.  I want to cruise comfortable
and
>quiet at 65-75, but want plenty left over if I nail it, like my Dad's old
71
>Riviera.  What would you guys suggest?  What were the options on gears in
71?
>How can I tell for sure what I have without going through the spin and
count
>routine we heard about a few weeks ago?  Is there a number somewhere
>underneath?
>
>Scott

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 23:43:47 -0400
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: Messages

Hello to everyone,
     If anyone has sent me a message or a question recently, I apologize
for not answering them yet.  Work is 10 hours/7 days right now and I am
behind.  Also, I will be away from my computer for the next 12 days so I
will not be answering any requests until then.

   Looking forward to returning and catching up on the e-mail.

Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma, Ohio
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E & 4L60-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'96 DCM Impala SS (Naisso #1365)  '87 Olds Cutlass 442 (OCA #028505)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 23:54:06 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Don't talk smack, boy!! (Re: RocketTalk tomorrow?)

WOODY3781@aol.com wrote:

> I had a 76 and 77 and they were great cars. The only
> bad thing is that the rear bumpers always rotted off. Guarantee within 10
> years these cars will take their rightful place among the classics.

I would tend to agree with your assessment.  I had a 76 Cutlass Salon 2
dr with a 350 A/T in that was a really nice car.  The area around the
rear wheel wells  also tended to rust unfortunately.  I think the car is
still around town here somewhere.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 23:54:13 EDT
From: Cutw29@aol.com
Subject: 1970 Cutlass Convertible for sale

I found a 70 convertible for sale.  I wanted to ask you guys something about
it though.  It seems the guy crashed the car into a ditch and bent the frame.
He bought all new panels around some n.o.s. and some reproduction.  He
replaced the top and got the interior redone.  He got the car painted and it
needs the windows straightend out and emblems and trim put back on.  Don't
know much about the engine says he dosen't know if numbers match and didn't
really get a good look at it.  Anyway my question was about the frame.  It
seems that he took it to a guy who tried to fix it but he didn't do it right.
The owner then just decided to buy a parts car and he wants to remove the
frame from the parts car and place it under the good car.  He said that after
he does this he would sell the car and he wants $3000.  Does this car seem
worth it or should I stay away?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 21:12:05 -0700
From: "Greg" <gjackso1@san.rr.com>
Subject: torque converter

please tell me what is ment by stall speed and what would be the best
converter to install in my 72 Supreme.
Greg

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 23:41:00 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Olds and Holley

According to Edelbrock, some Chrysler's used the Q-Jet in something
called a Thermo-Quad setup.

Stephen Hoover
___________

While the Thermo-Quad was a spread-bore carb like the Q-jet, it was
manufactured by Carter, not Rochester.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 00:12:41 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 1970 Vista Cruiser info

Please stop me if I'm about to make a HUGE mistake.
________

Mark,

Please be advised that patch panels for the VC are _not_ available, and any
metalwork would need to be done with hand-fabricated parts.  Having said
that, it _may_ (and I stress the may) be possible to use portions of the
repro coupe quarter panels, depending on how far the rust goes.  Don't know
if a tailgate patch panel is available for a Chevelle wagon that might work
(I've never seen one), but the good news is that the tailgate is not a
compound curve, so it should be possible to hand form a panel.  The roof
rust would worry me the most, as this again requires hand forming and very
difficult welding (preceded by the removal of all the roof glass to prevent
heat damage).  The real problem is that there are very few body shops who
will repair this type of rust properly, and most tend to work on
high-profile cars (read that:  charge a ton of money).  Properly repairing
the rust you've described requires significant metalworking skill, which is
becoming a lost art.  From your description, it sounds like it would be
cheaper for you to buy a plane ticket to Arizona and find a rust-free VC
than to spend the money to fix this one.  Sorry.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 23:46:53 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 68-72 A Body Heater Cores

Time saver trick #2

When replacing a blower motor on a 68-72,
(with or without A/C)  I've always just
unbolted the plastic inner fenderwell...

Greg Rollin
_________

You're right, Greg, but the problem I've had every time I've tried to do
this is that on the last inner-to-outer fender bolt the clip-nut breaks,
requiring me to pull the fender anyway to get access to the now
free-spinning nut.   :-o

In fact, while we're talking about preventive maintenance, whenever I
remove a bolt from one of the two-piece clip nuts, I replace that nut with
a new one-piece clip nut.  Also probably pays to put some anti-seize
compound on the threads.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 23:53:59 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Chicago Tribune 10/8/1998 Cars Section

...is recommended reading. The cover story is on muscle cars,
and they chose for a photo a huge, foot-wide picture of the
nose of a 4-4-2, complete with under-bumper air intakes, etc.
According to the caption, the car itself is from the Volo Auto
Museum in Volo, IL, so it might even be for sale, since the
place sells cars on consignment.

- -- Andy
__________

This wouldn't be the 69 W-30 convertible _CLONE_ that Volo has been trying
to sell in Hemmings for $17K every month for, oh, the last hundred years or
so, would it?  At least they admit it's a clone.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 23:59:58 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: A body Motor Stance

Why would it sit differently? I thought the frame mounts are the same....

Pettrix@prodigy.net
____________

Did you use the rubber motor mounts that match the frame mounts or the
engine?  The motor and frame mounts go as a set.  While the mounting bolt
locations on the engines are the same, the location of the cross bolt
between the motor and frame mounts has varied.  Make sure you use a set
that's matched (either both from the car or both for the engine).

Note also that while the fan should not be in a different place, the carb
_will_ sit about an inch higher with the big block properly located in the
frame, as will the valve covers (which is why the factory used the
"notched" valve covers on big block A-body applications).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 00:18:38 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: torque converter

>what would be the best converter to install in my 72 Supreme.


greg,

We need some more info on your set-up (cid, stock or built, etc) before that
can be determined.

I'm running a 3000 stall with a Comp 280H cam, 3.73 gears (limited slip), 4V
intake and 750 carb. Oh it's 72 Cutlass 350 w/Th350.

Just an example.
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 23:29:21 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Cam selection, 455

What name brand are these cams?? You should consult Mondello and his
cams(Engle) can tell you if you can retain the stock stamped steel rocker
arms and if you will have any valve spring changes,etc.etc... You can have
valve stem binding with too high off a life cam. Check with him, he knows
his Olds.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Igor T. '81 455DRB <igor455@home.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Cam selection, 455
> Date: Thursday, October 08, 1998 8:04 PM
>
> Okay, here are two cams that I narrowed down as my choices.  The goal is
> simple.  I want the best STREETABLE performance, quickest acceleration,
nice
> sounding (but still decent) idle, no or MINOR mods to the stock
valvetrain.
>
> The cams are:
> CAM1
> Duration @.050   214-224;  ADV.. Dur.  272-282;  Valve lift  .472-.496;
> Intake Centerline 110;
>
> CAM2
> Duration @.050   224-234;  ADV.. Dur.  286-296;  Valve lift  .496-.520;
> Intake Centerline 110;
>
> If you don't remember my motor specks, here they are:
> '76 Block, 455 .030over, 10:1CR cast pistons, with my J-heads about
9.5CR,
> ported and polished exhaust side (inc. removal of EGR bump and opening up
of
> exhaust valve), stock smaller valves (2.000 intake I think), cast rings,
> true DBL. roller timing, .10 under mains, .20 under throws, the intake is
> the model  'L'  404521  '70-'72  455 4V AT and MT. 442, SX, 88, 98's.
Except
> W-30. Iron.;
> the carb is 4-bbl Rochester of a '70' 442, no emissions or anything, 790
cfm
> flow, the exhaust is stock '76 BB manifolds, dual 2.5" exhaust, 2.25"
> dynomax super turbos, 2.25" tailpipes, balance-tube.  Rear is 8.5"
10-bolt,
> 3.23s posi, 12 inch converter, stage 2 shift kit.  The current cam is
> 260-272 AD, .448-.472 lift.  Thanks a lot.  I think that the CAM1 would
be a
> better choice for streetability and use with stock valvetrain.  The
current
> cam runs out
> of revs just before 4000.  I would like it to pull to 5000.  Now pulls
great
> to 3000, okay to 4000, nothing more.  Also, now it has no traction.
Thanks.
>
> All this is in my '81 Delta Royal Brogham 4-door.  (not a lightweight by
any
> means)
>
> Igor.
>
> Igor Todorovic
> 1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
> 1981 Regency (307/propane/th2004r)
> 1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 00:30:20 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Rally Pack -- definition wanted

Are you talking $1,800. here?

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
  
'86 Couse Custom Cutlass IROC-SS = "Quincy"

<>-----Original Message-----
<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of CPEARLPARK@aol.com
<>Sent: Thursday, October 08, 1998 9:12 PM
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<>Subject: Re: Rally Pack -- definition wanted
<>
<>
<>Gary, I hear they go for about $18... Interested in selling a set?  :-)
<>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 23:35:05 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 10-bolt rears

In my 72 442 I have a 3.73 rear end ratio. It has the stock 14" Rims. I am
about 3000rpm at 55mph. I would want to step up to a taller tire. How tall
can I go without clearance problems. Also how many RPM's would drop with
each 1" taller tire?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Igor T. '81 455DRB <igor455@home.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 10-bolt rears
> Date: Thursday, October 08, 1998 10:33 PM
>
> The 3.23s are OKAY.  They accelerate decent and I can live with them on
the
> high-way.  75 mph is about 3000 rpm with my 26" tall tires.  With my cam
it
> tops out at 4500 rpm ASAP (I think about 110 or so).  The 4.10s on my van
> (big tires though) are absolute crap on the highway.  The 360, even
thought
> smaller is much worse as far as fuel economy.  When it used to have 3.23s
> (girlfriends dad), he could get 18 mpg.  Now, 10 if you are lucky. 4.10s
=
> Ear-bleeding RPM and not much top speed.  Something like 3000 at 55 or
so.
> Good off the line though and lots of towing power.
>
> If the Riviera was a FWD, it was probably a 3.08.  This is what you would
> like, I think.  The 2.41s were great on the highway (with 307 in Delta),
but
> nothing off the line.  Stock, I think the 442s came with 3.91 rears, but
> with short 14-inch tires it would spin and feel like 4's with my tires
(they
> are still relatively short.  255/60/15 BFGoodrich)
> If you have the option codes, you can tell.  Other then that, pull the
cover
> and look, then use silicon and put the cover back on.
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 21:34:58 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: torque converter

At 09:12 PM 10/8/98 -0700, you wrote:
>please tell me what is ment by stall speed and what would be the best
>converter to install in my 72 Supreme.
>Greg
>
stall speed is the  RPM at which the converter transfers all
(or almost all) to the transmission. If the stall speed it to low,
the engine bogs, to high and it causes the trany to heat up.
ussually 1800-2400 is good , unless the engine is highly modified.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 00:01:30 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 1970 Cutlass Convertible for sale

STAY AWAY!!!    Especially a convertible that suffered major frame damage.
You knows if the top will close properly, the windows line up, the
doors,etc.etc..   For $3000 you can get a decent car that is driveable.
This is something I would stay away. Frame repair can cost $1000's of $$$.
Unless you have money falling out of your pockets and you want to save an
Olds from death, buy it. If not stay clear away from it, it will be nothing
but $$$ and a headache...
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Cutw29@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 1970 Cutlass Convertible for sale
> Date: Thursday, October 08, 1998 10:54 PM
>
> I found a 70 convertible for sale.  I wanted to ask you guys something
about
> it though.  It seems the guy crashed the car into a ditch and bent the
frame.
> He bought all new panels around some n.o.s. and some reproduction.  He
> replaced the top and got the interior redone.  He got the car painted and
it
> needs the windows straightend out and emblems and trim put back on.
Don't
> know much about the engine says he dosen't know if numbers match and
didn't
> really get a good look at it.  Anyway my question was about the frame.
It
> seems that he took it to a guy who tried to fix it but he didn't do it
right.
> The owner then just decided to buy a parts car and he wants to remove the
> frame from the parts car and place it under the good car.  He said that
after
> he does this he would sell the car and he wants $3000.  Does this car
seem
> worth it or should I stay away?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 98 1:36:22 EDT
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: 68-72 Cutlass Inner (Upper?) Trailing Arm Size

At 08:57 AM 10/8/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Any one have a 68-72 cutlass differential trailing arms handy ?-- the
>upper/inner ones, not the lower/outer ones.
>
>I'm trying to determine if these are the same dimensions as the 66 big car
>upper/inner arms.
>
>Could you measure the distance from the centers of the bolt holes for me and
>post it? Width would
>be good too.
>


     The upper control arm length from the center of the housing mount bolt
to the center of the frame mount bolt is 10 1/4".  The housing mount end
width is 2 5/8" and the frame mount end width is 2 5/16".


     Glenn
     '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 00:42:46 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: A body Motor Stance

You lost me here. My motor mounts were bought and they matched the block. I
believed as long as they match the block, they work. How would I go about
matching a set, as you stated. If you go to a NAPA store and ask for motor
mounts, they will give you a set of 455 motor mounts. I don't remember if
they asked what year was the car.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: A body Motor Stance
> Date: Thursday, October 08, 1998 10:59 PM
>
> Why would it sit differently? I thought the frame mounts are the same....
>
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
> ____________
>
> Did you use the rubber motor mounts that match the frame mounts or the
> engine?  The motor and frame mounts go as a set.  While the mounting bolt
> locations on the engines are the same, the location of the cross bolt
> between the motor and frame mounts has varied.  Make sure you use a set
> that's matched (either both from the car or both for the engine).
>
> Note also that while the fan should not be in a different place, the carb
> _will_ sit about an inch higher with the big block properly located in
the
> frame, as will the valve covers (which is why the factory used the
> "notched" valve covers on big block A-body applications).
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 00:17:53 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 10-bolt rears

>In my 72 442 I have a 3.73 rear end ratio. It has the stock 14" Rims. I am
>about 3000rpm at 55mph. I would want to step up to a taller tire. How tall
>can I go without clearance problems. Also how many RPM's would drop with
>each 1" taller tire?


I don't know about the biggest tires you can put on.  I have seen some 442s
of that era with 295/60/15s.  As far as RPM drop, use this equation to
calculate:

RPM = speed (mph) x gear ratio x 336
            -------------------------------------------
                        tire diameter (inches)

55x3.73x336
- ------------------
        23"

gives about 3000 rpm.  Measure your diameter carefully.  A 27" tall tire
(such as the 275/60/15) could make your RPMs drop to about 2550.  But do
note, that you WILL feel it in acceleration.  With a 455 not as much, but
when I changed my tires from 27" to 26" with the old 307 and 2.41s, I could
still feel it a little.  The car was a bit faster, and it was only 1" drop.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 23:00:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: jalkara <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: 200 mph

maybe it was a kph, like in the land of eh!  it only comes to 120 mph, so
probally standard on northland cars

47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 01:49:12 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Intro to the Rockit!

> Ray Costanzo wrote:
> > >The Rockit
> > What is a RockIT?
>
> Oh, a newer face, I see...  :)  ~This~ is the Rockit.  So named for several
> reasons,

Oh, I left out a couple details, here...  The "Rockit" became so named (and
spelled) due to the license plate.  At the time, my first choice was "ROCKET"
but it was taken (on a ~brown~ 83 ca*aro, no less!) So I was faced with a
decision.  1 ROCKET, I ROCKET, I ROCKIT, ROCKIT 1, and then started narrowing
them down from there.  I liked the idea of Rocket->Rock it type of thing, cuz 
it
really did rock...  And I liked the 1 afterwards, since in most races...  The
Rockit 1 (won:)  Plus, it opened the door for a Rockit 2, Rocket 3, etc.
However, there can and will ~never~ be another Rockit.  So it will never die 
(or
at least will never ~stay~ dead...)

Anyway, that's a bit more of the background behind the naming of the Rockit.
Ever since the name was ~earned~ it's stayed.  Back in Havre (my college town
for 8 years) hardly anyone knew me.  But ~everyone~ knew the Rockit.  Period.
:)



- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 08:01:47 -0400
From: mike salmon <mesalmon@eos.ncsu.edu>
Subject: (no subject)

unsubscribe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 07:52:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: Derek Douglas <derek@primeline.net>
Subject: Re: 200 mph

> maybe it was a kph, like in the land of eh!  it only comes to 120 mph, so
> probally standard on northland cars

120 * 1.6 = 195kph so it probably was 200kph on the speedometer..

TTYL

Derek Douglas
- ---------------
Prime-Line Communications
   derek@primeline.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 02:51:23 -0700
From: Mr Ada <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: 10-bolt rears

Igor T. '81 455DRB wrote:

> RPM = speed (mph) x gear ratio x 336
>       ------------------------------
>           tire diameter (inches)

A interesting formula.  I was doing some calculations for my car and the
numbers don't jive.

Specs:
Tire Diameter = 25" (245/60R14)
Gear Ratio    = 3.08

I remember taking Frosty up to 110 and she seemed like she could do a little
more.  I don't have a tach, however, at 110 she wasn't screaming high RPMS.

at 1500 RPM =>  36.2 mph
at 2500 RPM =>  60.4 mph
at 3500 RPM =>  84.6 mph
at 4500 RPM => 108.7 mph
at 5000 RPM => 120.8 mph

These don't seem right, try 3.23 gears:

at 1500 RPM =>  34.6 mph
at 2500 RPM =>  57.6 mph
at 3500 RPM =>  80.6 mph
at 4500 RPM => 103.7 mph
at 5000 RPM => 115.2 pmh

These don't seem right either, try 2.78 gears which I don't believe this car
has:

at 1500 RPM =>  40.1 mph
at 2500 RPM =>  66.9 mph
at 3500 RPM =>  93.7 mph
at 4500 RPM => 120.4 mph
at 5000 RPM => 133.8 pmh

Well 2.78 figures seem more in line,. as compared with the other calculations,

with how I think Frosty performed.  Without an accurate tach I don't know for
sure.  See how it doesn't jive?!?

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 09:14:47 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: A body Motor Stance

You lost me here. My motor mounts were bought and they matched the block. I
believed as long as they match the block, they work. How would I go about
matching a set, as you stated. If you go to a NAPA store and ask for motor
mounts, they will give you a set of 455 motor mounts. I don't remember if
they asked what year was the car.
Pettrix@prodigy.net
___________

There's the problem.  Get the motor mounts for the engine orignially
installed in the car (the 350 mounts).  These _will_ bolt up to the 455.
The problem is that if you use the 455 motor mounts, you will need the
matching 455 frame mounts.  Using the 350 motor mounts allows you to retain
the 350 frame mounts.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 06:41:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Olds Omega <oldsomega73@yahoo.com>
Subject: Rocket Talk?!?!? Where?

Seeing as I'm new, where is Rocket Talk? Help is appreciated.

Avery




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 08:44:46 +0000
From: MB0 <MB0@americancentury.com>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: How to Turn HTML Off?

Preferences-|
	    |
	    Mail & Groups-
			  |
			  |
			  Messages-
				  |
				  |
				  Message Properties-
						    |Turn HTLM off



Jim...


Wow!   I am currently running Netscape 3.01, and I don't have any
hiarchy like that in my menu options. I believe I successfully turned
off html (it is off, isn't it Greg?)by selecting:  Mail and News
Preferences - Composition, then under Send and Post, select "MIME
compliant printed quotable", rather than "Allow 8-bit."

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 09:57:50 -0400
From: Jim Olson <jolson@edzone.net>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: How to Turn HTML Off?

OH!

I guess I should have asked... ;)

I'm used to running 4.x now...

Jim...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 07:55:15 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 10-bolt rears

I read the formula in Car Craft as well as on the list, the numbers work for
me.  Remember, you must give/take a few houndred rpm due to converter
slipage, lock-up and so on.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 09:00:23 -0500
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: Chicago Tribune 10/8/1998 Cars Section

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
>
> ...is recommended reading. The cover story is on muscle cars,
> and they chose for a photo a huge, foot-wide picture of the
> nose of a 4-4-2, complete with under-bumper air intakes, etc.
> According to the caption, the car itself is from the Volo Auto
> Museum in Volo, IL, so it might even be for sale, since the
> place sells cars on consignment.
>
> -- Andy
> __________
>
> This wouldn't be the 69 W-30 convertible _CLONE_ that Volo has been trying
> to sell in Hemmings for $17K every month for, oh, the last hundred years or
> so, would it?  At least they admit it's a clone.
>
> Joe Padavano


  When I saw the picture, I thought it was a clone as well.  It has
scopes underneath a well as hood scopes.  Not being in the know of '69
442's, this struck me as strange.  Why have working forced air and fake
hood scopes???  Also, the headlights and hood were poorly aligned
especially from a place that charges what Volo does for Muscle Cars.

Anyway, is this what a '69 442 is supposed to look like in terms of
scopes or not?  Thanks.

Paul Brillhart

'65 442 4-speed

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 10:14:16 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Rocket Talk?!?!? Where?

Olds Omega wrote:
>
> Seeing as I'm new, where is Rocket Talk? Help is appreciated.
>
> Avery

RocketTalk:

http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/oldschat.htm

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 10:25:44 -0400
From: Todd Morris <toddmorr@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: 10-bolt rears

3.23s are just about right.  I feel I can cruise comfortably at no higher than
3000RPM, which yields me a tad less than 70 MPH.  Unfortunately this is a a
little slower than I'd like to cruise.  I think I'd rather have 3.08, or at
least try them.  Can't imagine the difference in acceleration is that much.

There is a code stamped on the right rear axle half that indicates the gear
ratio.  It is lightly stamped, scrape off the rust and gunk and it should be
there.

Todd Morris
71 442

>Igor, How do you like the 3.23's on your 455 Delta?  I have a 71 455 4-4-2
>with something in the high 3's or even low 4's and it's really getting on my
>nerves. It's just the wrong rear end for me.  I want to cruise comfortable and
>quiet at 65-75, but want plenty left over if I nail it, like my Dad's old 71
>Riviera.  What would you guys suggest?  What were the options on gears in 71?
>How can I tell for sure what I have without going through the spin and count
>routine we heard about a few weeks ago?  Is there a number somewhere
>underneath?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 10:28:24 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Chicago Tribune 10/8/1998 Cars Section

  When I saw the picture, I thought it was a clone as well.  It has
scopes underneath a well as hood scopes.  Not being in the know of '69
442's, this struck me as strange.  Why have working forced air and fake
hood scopes???  Also, the headlights and hood were poorly aligned
especially from a place that charges what Volo does for Muscle Cars.

Anyway, is this what a '69 442 is supposed to look like in terms of
scopes or not?  Thanks.

Paul Brillhart
___________

As you correctly surmised, Paul, the setup you've described is not correct.
I haven't seen the car (is there a URL?), but from the description, it
sounds pretty hosed up.  The 69s should have under-bumper scoops only, in
addition to red inner fenders with holes for the scoops.  There was no hood
scoop setup in 69 except for the H/O, which had the ad-on "mailbox" scoops
on the metal hood.  Note that the H/Os did not use the under bumper scoops
in 69, and they had black, not red, fenderwells.  The 70 W-25 fiberglass
hood _will_ bolt onto a 69, with mods required to the hood latch.  Of
course, the painted grille and headlight doors is also not correct.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 07:51:47 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: One mans conquest with an Oldsmobile.

> I just had the pleasure of replacing the water pump in my 87
> 442................. IS THERE ANYTHING OLDSMOBILE DIDN'T BOLT
> TO THE FRONT OF THAT DAMN THING!!!!!!!!!!!!

The ashtray, I think, but I can't swear to that.  :-(  People
don't believe me when I tell them that I had to remove the
carburetor to change the water pump. ('82 V6) (IIRC, one of
the alternator support brackets, which needed to come out to
clear the pump, was bolted on under the carb, which needed to
come out to clear the socket wrench, etc., etc.)

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 07:55:04 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 1970 Vista Cruiser info

> 3)can anybody give me tips on what big troubles to look for

In addition to what you find here, you might also want to check out

http://www.stationwagon.com

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 11:25:56 -0400
From: Mark & Sandra Haywood <haywood@connection.com>
Subject: rear end codes

I'm trying to determine the gear ratio of an Olds rear end with the
following serial numbers - 6-6A0-182.  Can anyone help?

Thanks
Mark Haywood

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 11:30:26 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: Looking for 15'' wheels for 85

I have someone here in Augusta, GA that wants to buy a set of 15'' factory
one piece chrome wheels for an 85 Supreme. If anyone has a set and would
like to talk to the person e-mail me at betzel@gte.net
<mailto:betzel@gte.net>  and I will give you his name and phone number. This
guy seen me driving the 442 and we talked a few minutes. He has owned a few
Olds and loves his 85. I though I would try to help him find a set. Thanks


Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the......Past

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 11:27:12 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Chicago Tribune 10/8/1998 Cars Section

The car that's for sale that you mention, Joe, is (to the best of my
knowledge) black, with black interior, and white hood stripe outlines.

The question I've always wondered is "Is it a 442 cloned into a W-30, or is
it a Cutlass cloned into a 442 W-30"?  The former seems more likely, given
that unbelievably high price (they've already spent a good deal on those
ads they've been running for FOREVER), but then again, some people are just
stupid.

At 10:53 PM 10/8/98 , you wrote:
>...is recommended reading. The cover story is on muscle cars,
>and they chose for a photo a huge, foot-wide picture of the
>nose of a 4-4-2, complete with under-bumper air intakes, etc.
>According to the caption, the car itself is from the Volo Auto
>Museum in Volo, IL, so it might even be for sale, since the
>place sells cars on consignment.
>
>-- Andy
>__________
>
>This wouldn't be the 69 W-30 convertible _CLONE_ that Volo has been trying
>to sell in Hemmings for $17K every month for, oh, the last hundred years or
>so, would it?  At least they admit it's a clone.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 11:40:07 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)

This is funny (not at ALL because of you, though)...I went out today and
bought a "Sneaky Pete" BEFORE I read your message.  I was SHOCKED to find
out that this tool was as well known among the parts guys as it was, given
that I've been up, down, and around this issue about a million times here
on this list.  I got the seal OFF last night (3:30 AM!), and will get back
to the bottom end today after class.  I guess I'm just not going to Houston
this weekend...oh well, it was just a girl...

Also got the driver's side valve cover back on, but not before I broke two
bolts off (one of them actually broke off in the head, but I was able to
drill it out) and f*cked up one of my new gaskets (and, of course, the nice
clean surfaces that I had gotten on both the head and the cover).  Just a
word of advice - be sure that when it says 36 IN/lbs that you're not seeing
36 FT/lbs - makes quite a bit of difference (duh, and makes you feel not
just a little bit stupid).

Also was kind of shocked to find out how difficult (impossible, at the
parts store anyway) it is to get those two piece "bolts" that go on the top
two valve cover bolt holes - the threaded shank that you screw in first,
and then the nut that screws in on top of that.  Supposedly this
arrangement makes it possible to remove all of the stupid little brackets
that go under the nuts, but on top of the valve cover.  Hi-Lo said there
was zero chance of finding these new.



At 04:47 PM 10/8/98 , you wrote:
>Just last week I replaced my rear main seal, both upper and lower, with the
>engine in the car.  Second time I've done this, not a quick job.  I bought a
>Lisle tool called "sneaky pete" to help with removal and reinsertion of the
>upper seal.  The tool is total garbage and broke.  Another kit made by KD is
>much better I think.  Anyway, using the rope type seal, I attached the end of
>the tool to the rope and then the idea is that you then pull the rope up and
>around the crankshaft, along the groove in the upper bearing.  The problem is
>that it takes tremendous torque to pull the seal through the very tight
crevice
>that it sits in, while the crank is still installed of course.  It takes so
>much torque that the tool broke.  The KD tools which I saw at Carlisle last
>week looked much more heavy duty and they might work.  Tool is inexpensive,
>around $10.
>
>Anyway, I ended up using a screw driver to gradually pack the seal in there,
>bit by bit.  Probably took a good 2 hours of patiently pushing and packing.
>You probably will have to push/pack two pieces, one from each side.  I've
>driven the car several hundred miles since and no leak so it seems to have
>worked.  Also, remember to grease or vaseline the rope seals when you install
>them.  I forgot to do this a couple years ago--it still sealed but my starter
>burned up on the first start attempt--it couldn't overcome the resistance of
>the "dry" rope.
>
>I did not replace the bearings so I can't comment there.  As to the
prelubing.
>A couple years ago--the first time--I replaced the seal I also replaced
the oil
>pump.  When I restarted I had very nasty click,clicking for a good couple
>minutes until the new oil pump primed itself.  Not good. So, this time,
>although I didn't replace the oil pump, I did prime it by turning it with a
>drill in a bucket of oil before reinstalling it.  I also filled the oil
filter
>with oil.  When I restarted the engine I had no clicking whatsoever or any
oil
>starvation problems I could tell.
>
>One more note while I'm at it.  I shimmed my oil pump, adding two small
washers
>between the cotter pin and the pressure regulator spring.  This has made no
>difference AT ALL in my oil pressure.  I still get 35 lbs at hot cruise.  I
>still believe that the overwhelming determinant of oil pressure is bearing
>clearance.  Oil pump and oil weight make a minor difference at best.
>
>Todd Morris
>71 442
>
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 12:46:55 EDT
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Chicago Tribune 10/8/1998 Cars Section

Clone?   I thought they only Cloned sheep?  : )   Baaahaaahaaahaaahaa

Does anyone feel that a clone is worth as much as the real thing???

Vinny

68 H/O
62 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 11:48:46 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: A body Motor Stance

So the 350 motor mounts will bolt on the 455 block and I will have no
problems with the mounts going bad or not being able to handle the
torque.etc.etc?? The motor will then sit correctly? Well if this is true I
am going to pull the motor over the fall and change the mounts....


> There's the problem.  Get the motor mounts for the engine orignially
> installed in the car (the 350 mounts).  These _will_ bolt up to the 455.
> The problem is that if you use the 455 motor mounts, you will need the
> matching 455 frame mounts.  Using the 350 motor mounts allows you to
retain
> the 350 frame mounts.
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 09:57:25 +0000
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Olds and Holley

hmmm  well the quadrajet says on the side of it Rochester Quadrajet by
Carter................FWIW..kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM <Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, October 09, 1998 4:23 AM
Subject: Re: Olds and Holley


>According to Edelbrock, some Chrysler's used the Q-Jet in something
>called a Thermo-Quad setup.
>
>Stephen Hoover
>___________
>
>While the Thermo-Quad was a spread-bore carb like the Q-jet, it was
>manufactured by Carter, not Rochester.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 12:17:43 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Chicago Tribune 10/8/1998 Cars Section

I personally think NO.  I think that quite a few people on the list feel
the same way.

I see it this was...you have this nice ass car - looks great, runs better,
gets the chicks, etc. - but if it was ME, I would ALWAYS, deep down, have a
nagging hole in my heart because _I_ knew (even if nobody else did) that it
wasn't the real thing.  I would have a hard time justifying to myself the
money and time spent to keep a fake going.  (THIS IS COMING FROM SOMEONE
WHO DOESN'T OWN ANYTHING OF NOTE, THOUGH, SO WHAT DO I KNOW REALLY...)

I think that clones are the most objectionable when you're cloning it into
something that had a different model code (or, as in the case of 68s - 71s,
a different VIN).  But I don't know how I would feel about something that
has been "cloned" into a car that came from the factory with just bolt-on
mods - like a W-30, for example.  That's why I wonder about that Volo Auto
Museum '69 convert - if it's REALLY a 442, and someone just put the
fenders, air cleaner, and hood scoops on it, is that really such a big
deal?  But if it's NOT a 442, then in my mind all they've done is screw up
a Cutlass by turning it into something that it's not.

At 11:46 AM 10/9/98 , you wrote:
>Clone?   I thought they only Cloned sheep?  : )   Baaahaaahaaahaaahaa
>
>Does anyone feel that a clone is worth as much as the real thing???
>
>Vinny
>
>68 H/O
>62 Starfire
>
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 12:15:16 +0000
From: MB0 <MB0@americancentury.com>
Subject: Should I or shouldn't I pull that windshield....

I am contemplating the idea of pulling my windshield (69 Cutlass
convertible) in order to prep the surrounding metal and paint. The left
corner of the dash is pretty rusty just at the bottom edge of the
windshield, and having the glass out would certainly make it easier to
get to.

 My first thought was to work slowly at pulling the glass myself and
then having it professionally reinstalled when I've completed the
planned work. Most of the glass companies I called won't guarantee that
they won't break the glass upon removal. Personally, I'd rather be
p!ssed at myself for breaking it, because I'm sure I'd be more careful
to avoid the possibility than a pro, although the pro is a pro....sorry,
rambling.


Any advice??

Thanks a  Deltaload (that's quite a bit)!
Mike Baugher

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Oct 1998 10:30:12 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Chicago Tribune 10/8/1998 Cars Section

> That's why I wonder about that Volo Auto Museum '69 convert - if
> it's REALLY a 442, and someone just put the fenders, air cleaner,
> and hood scoops on it, is that really such a big deal?  But if it's
> NOT a 442, then in my mind all they've done is screw up a Cutlass by
> turning it into something that it's not.

The general consensus seems to be that there's something fakey about
that car, but before we all light flaming torches and go tromping off
to the museum... It's probably being sold on consignment there; the
museum is not necessarily to blame. Most likely the Tribune picked it
for the cover page because it looked kewl, not because it looked
accurate.

Will probably be at the museum myself sometime in the next few weeks,
so if I spot the car there I'll give it a going-over, logging its VIN,
etc.

As for whether it's bad to turn the car into something it's not, or
something it wasn't, I'd say it's only a problem if you try to sell it
as such. If you want to change it for yourself, fine. Of course, there
is nothing to stop a buyer of your car from turning around and ripping
off somebody else down the line with your fake car.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 12:26:52 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Chicago Tribune 10/8/1998 Cars Section

"Is it a 442 cloned into a W-30, or is
it a Cutlass cloned into a 442 W-30"?
__________

I've wondered that too, but fortunately this would be easy to determine
from the VIN.  344679... would obviously indicate that the car was at least
originally a 442 convert.  I wonder if they started from a Lansing car at
least?

Joe P

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 12:54:42 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Chicago Tribune 10/8/1998 Cars Section

OK, thanks to Mike Baugher I now have a jpeg of the car.  First, it's
obviously not a convertible (note blue roof above the windshield), so this
isn't the $17K clone.  Second, it's got 69 under bumper scoops (or are
those 68 scoops?) with a 70 W-25 hood (can't tell if it's real or repro).
The blue headlight doors and silver grille are unusual, to say the least.
What's with the chin spoiler?  Is this a hand-made spoiler or did they
paint the plastic deflector below the radiator?  To be honest, I think
their grille treatment might look better if the It looks like they prefer
to modify their cars, as evidenced by the American Racing wheels on the
white Supreme convert (?) to the left of the 69.  Note also the blue 71
Supreme convert to the right.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 12:37:00 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Chicago Tribune 10/8/1998 Cars Section

Why have working forced air and fake
hood scopes???
_________

This Volo car actually brings up another one of my pet peeves, which is:
Why do people do things like this with original ram air hoods.  The crazies
who will cut a Chevelle cowl induction hood or a GTO dual-inlet hood for a
blower, for example, puzzle me.  Not only are they destroying a valuable
part (which is their right, if they own it), but the resulting combination
usually doesn't even look good!  Why not replace the rare hood with a
plentiful flat metal (or 'glass repro) hood, and save the rare part, or
sell it to someone who really needs it?

I'm also reminded of a car in the movie Corvette Summer (starring Mark
"Luke Skywalker" Hammil).  Yes, I was probably one of three people in the
country to actually pay to see this movie in a theater.  The bad guys drove
a 70-ish Firebird which had the Formula hood (the one with the two scoops
way up forward) which has also been cut to install a Trans-Am shaker!
Quite the aestetic triumph!

<Andy Rooney mode off>

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 13:47:24 EDT
From: WOODY3781@aol.com
Subject: Re: Chicago Tribune 10/8/1998 Cars Section

As long as everbody knows that the car is an imposter, shouldn't matter. It
all goes back to what Mike and Ray were talking about-personal taste. As far
as selling something under false pretenses- the seller should have his larynx
ripped out by the
eventually enlightened buyer. Just my non-cents.

wood

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 14:07:33 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Wrinkle in 1976 carb search! (Roch-related)

Having gotten started on this quest, Karl has begin acting strangely.

Even for Karl.

"Hey! Do you guys know somebody who owns a 1976 Salon??"
"Uh, nope! Don't know what it looks like, but...."

Almost went to a late-model Yarde today to walk through and go;

"No, nope, Hmmmm.... no, not that one, nope............"

Then, having gotten off work on Friday, Karl went to a semi-decent auto parts
store.

And asked at the parts counter.

IMPORTANT PART!

There is a carburetor replacement book.
(Yeah! Really!)

It tells them what code for remanufactured carb will replace which Rochester
application code.

And in the back there are many pages of tables, listing the Rochester
application # and the reman. code #.

~The Rochester codes are in NUMERICAL order!!!~

Karl could skim through the #s and from the associated reman. code (ah!) look
at what carb it is (pics) and even see what the car/engine was!!

Karl NEEDS one of these!!

Can find the right # with a little more information about the car!

More info later!!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 11:13:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Olds Omega <oldsomega73@yahoo.com>
Subject: OLDS HOMEPAGE!!!

Well everyone, I finally got a semi-decent webpage, that I hope everyone can
visit. It is devoted to the 1973 Omega I have (well own, but don't have in my
possession as of yet). So please check it out and sign my guest book. It's at
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/9113/

Avery Plank



<hr size=1><b>DO YOU YAHOO!?</b><br>Get your free @yahoo.com address at <a
href="http://mail.yahoo.com">Yahoo! Mail</a>.<br>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 11:29:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: Oil Pans

Stephen Hoover wrote:
  Is there any actual difference in the regular small block and big
block oil pans? Most resto places list two different part numbers, but
companies like Milodon only list one. I know the Toro pan is different.
                 What's up with this?

***************
     Stephen, The reason is crank clearance. The 455 pans have slight
bulges just ahead of the sump to clear the rotating crank/rods. Small
blocks don't need the clearance hence those pans have no reliefs. All
the aftermarket pans have bulges so they fit either engine. Factory
455 pans fit small blocks but the reverse is not true.
     Now I'm thinking; what about the early short stroke 400s. Did
they get a pan with bulges?



==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our cars, trucks and a whole lot more at
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1541
*********************************
