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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1595


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, November 9 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1595



TBI
November JWO mystery solved...
Die-cast 1994 Oldsmobile Funny Cars for sale
I'm Back (+Olds content)
Part 4 Sale
Re: Flowmasters for a 330?
Cutlass Supreme 3.4 1991
Re: TBI
Re: TBI
A/C compressors (modern 134a) info wanted
69 Olds Cutlass Convertible info
Muffler Recommendation
Re: Muffler Recommendation
Re: A/C compressors (modern 134a) info wanted
1970 rocket 88
Links Updated
69 Olds
Cam and manifold ID's
Re: Cam and manifold ID's
Any Aussie's here??
Non-Olds: Gordon...grrrr....
Re: 69 Olds Cutlass Convertible info
Re: Flowmasters for a 330?
Re: Flowmasters for a 330?
Re: Flowmasters for a 330?
Re: Flowmasters for a 330?
Re: MOTOR MOUNTS...AGAIN
Re: MOTOR MOUNTS...AGAIN
403 Color (fwd)
'42 F66 (fwd)
Re: Emissions  307 vs 403 (getting long!)
Keyless Entry Troubleshooting
1970 rocket 88
running dead lean
Re: Muffler Recommendation
Re: Baaad Day!!!!!(kind of long)
Re: TBI
Re: interior vacuum leak?
Re: Keyless Entry Troubleshooting
Re: Keyless Entry Troubleshooting
Re: Keyless Entry Troubleshooting
Re: November JWO mystery solved...
no volts at starter ????
Re: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal
Re: 69 Olds
Re: no volts at starter ????
Trans Am Steering Wheel
Save 63 F-85 from crusher?
Interior Painting
Re: 69 Olds
Re:heat

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 19:29:00 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: TBI

I thought I would pass this along to list members.
Anyone with a 81 - 87 Cutlass might be interested.

Item Description:		
	Throttle body injection unit for GM 350. PN # 17093030 (or try 
17086235)
Originally for 93'-95' truck with 350/4 spd auto but will fit many other
applications
This unit is brand new and has NEVER been installed, comes complete
with injectors, all sensors,gasket, bolts. Unit has been in cool dry
storage since purchased before summer.
This piece is being offered at   75%  below list price!  

GM Lists it at $960
My friends price $240

the URL for the TBI pic is  http://mergetel.com/~dna/tbi.jpg

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
Parting
1969 Cutlass (SOLD)
1970 442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 18:57:59 -0600 
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: November JWO mystery solved...

Folks, 
        Some members of the Olds related lists have been wondering why
they haven't received their November issue of Journey with Olds from
Olds Club of America.  I faxed OCA last Monday, and got this note today
from Marsha Nicholas, their Communications Coordinator.  Looks like
people with the 1st class mail option WILL get their November issues,
they just might be a little later than usual.  Forwarded message
follows:
________________________________________________________
Doug, just checking to see if you received your November issue of JWO
yet.  Received your fax at the beginning of the week.  There were
problems at the printing company with the addresses and everyone went
out bulk mail instead of some of the people going 1st class.  This has
been fixed for the next issue.  Sorry for any trouble that it caused.
Let me know if I can be of any other help.
Marsha Nicholas
OCA Communications Coordinator

Hope this clears things up...

Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
Columbus, MS         1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html
http://www.442.com/newmantape.html  

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 18:59:27 -0600
From: Edmund Terry Fiene <kawtu2@flash.net>
Subject: Die-cast 1994 Oldsmobile Funny Cars for sale

I have five 1994 Oldsmobile die-cast Funny Cars available to sell.
These are the Action mfr., 1:24 scale, Limited Edition, cars of Jim
Epler in the Rug Doctor graphics & colors (mostly black). They are all
brand new, unopened, in the original boxes. I am asking $30 each and I
will include insured shipping to US addresses. Please e-mail me if
interested.
mailto:kawtu2@flash.net
Terry

76 Luv w/rear mounted 455 Olds

personal homepages at-
http://www.flash.net/~kawtu2/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 20:15:39 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: I'm Back (+Olds content)

Hello all,

	Well, the mighty Mac got very sick last week. Sorry I couldn't post. 
If anybody tried to get in touch with me, sorry I missed it, please re-post.

Olds Content: Can anybody figure out why I can't open the drivers' door
on The Unit? Here's what happened. Just to try it out, I locked the door
and held the button in while I shut it. Closed, locked okay. Then, I
remembered I didn't have a key for the locks, so I went in through the
pass. door to unlock the driver's door. Here's the kicker, I can't pull
the lock up! What to do?
- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***************************
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 V-8 4 bbl)
1975 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (250 I-6 1 bbl)
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (350 V-8 2 bbl)
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4 bbl)
*******************************************
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 21:01:20 EST
From: TheBlue67@aol.com
Subject: Part 4 Sale

Set of 4 SS1 14x6 wheels. they are in nice condition. 3 are sandblasted and
need the black part painted on. other is in decient shape. $$$$ make me a
offer.

1" fenillic spacer plate. for a 4bbl Q-Jet. never been used. $40

Parts:
1964-67
65 cutlass hood $100
65 cutlass trunklid $100
65 cutlass convertible 6 piece stainless steel trim set. $250
64-65 power trunk release. complete $150

1968-69
set of 5 SSll trim rings. real nice $75
consle. o.k.  $50 obo
carpet, lite saddle, brand new $100
carpet, dark saddle, 2 months old $75

1970
442 grills, mint. $200
442 bumper in primer $125
consle $125
Tilt column. floor shift $150
decklid $75
carpet, lite saddle, brand new $100
carpet, dark saddle, 2 months old $75

1971-72
consle $125
Tilt column. floor shift $150
decklid $75
sport mirror, driver remote $40
72 rear lenses $15 a pair
carpet, lite saddle, brand new $100
carpet, dark saddle, 2 months old $75

no prices include shipping. depends on the item you are buying wether or not
you will have to pay shipping. Located in the Cleveland Ohio area. E-mail me
privately if you have any questions on anything. TheBlue67@Aol.com

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible (freshly painted and now being reasmebled)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 21:15:43 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: Flowmasters for a 330?

Thanks, oh, its a 66

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 21:21:53 -0000
From: "Peter van der Wijngaard" <forwine@cgocable.net>
Subject: Cutlass Supreme 3.4 1991

Hi guys,

Just wondered my olds stalls now and then and i noticed that it happens only
when I take a turn,does anyone know what causes this???

Thanks

Peter (simonp@cgocable.net)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 22:37:16 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: TBI

This reminds me... at the junqueyarde yesterday we found a new arrival, a
'78 or '79 Seville. It drove in (has general body rot) and the injected
Olds 350 under the hood looked very complete, untouched since it got
there. I hear the fuel injection on these had some problems, but this one
is all there and I imagine can be parted individually if anyone is
interested. 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 21:40:50 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: TBI

Wouldnt that 350 Olds be diesel? I know someone with a 350 Olds Crate engine,
Edelbrock intake, 650 holley, headers, 9,000 miles, wants to get rid of it,
the thing looks brand new, email me if you wanna know more
Kelly erickson
1966 Cutlass and 1954 Super 88 and soon to be a 1966 442
www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 20:43:18 -0500
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: A/C compressors (modern 134a) info wanted

I'm putting in my original A/C system this winter into my '71 cutlass.
The evaporator is only a few years old but the compressor is the
original.  I'm going to convert to 134a and I'm looking into getting a
new style compressor that's smaller, lighter and more efficient than
the dinosaur that I currently have.

Has anyone done this conversion?  I glanced through the air
conditioning book from Vintage Air at the bookstore and it sounds like
you need new hoses, compressor, and condenser (that's the one my the
radiator right?).

So, what should I do?  Any info, input, etc.  will be appreciated as
always.

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 20:56:40 -0600
From: "Dan & Peggy Dillabaugh" <housemvr@netnitco.net>
Subject: 69 Olds Cutlass Convertible info

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I have a 69 Olds Cutlass convertible with a 350.  I was in an accident 2 =
months ago.  My whole front end was smashed.  The other person was at =
fault.  My problem is I cannot get a value on my car & I cannot find =
parts.  I need 2 front fenders, bumper, grill, hood ect.  Can anyone =
help me with this problem?  Or send me  in the right direction?  Thanks! =
     Joe

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"BellGothic Blk BT">I have a 69 Olds =
Cutlass=20
convertible with a 350.&nbsp; I was in an accident 2 months ago.&nbsp; =
My whole=20
front end was smashed.&nbsp; The other person was at fault.&nbsp; My =
problem is=20
I cannot get a value on my car &amp; I cannot find parts.&nbsp; I need 2 =
front=20
fenders, bumper, grill, hood ect.&nbsp; Can anyone help me with this=20
problem?&nbsp; Or send me&nbsp; in the right direction?&nbsp;=20
Thanks!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Joe</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BE0B5A.48BD99E0--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 21:02:39 -0600
From: Dan Williams <442much@plutonium.net>
Subject: Muffler Recommendation

I'm looking for recommendations on a new set of mufflers for my 68 442.
I leaning towards Dynomax super turbo.  Does anybody have any
recommendations?  Any ideas on which mufflers flow the best?

- -Dan
- --
Dan Williams                            442Much@plutonium.net
Marion, IA                                     68 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 22:03:59 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: Muffler Recommendation

Gardner makes the resto systems, they will carry the W-30 muffler (more
freeflow type). 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 22:11:24 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: A/C compressors (modern 134a) info wanted

Greg, I've converted three systems to 134a.  Two were 1970 models, and one
was a '69.  I heard all the stories about massive monies and parts swapping.
But, what I did was to install the 134a fittings on the r-12 posts.  I
drained the compressor oil from the system, and replaced it with 134a oil.
Then I evacuated and charged the system.  All three systems have survived
their first summer without incident.  The only difference I see is that 134a
doesn't drop temp as quickly as r-12, but the terminal temp is about the
same.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gregory Zimmerman <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
To: Olds list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, November 08, 1998 9:45 PM
Subject: A/C compressors (modern 134a) info wanted


>I'm putting in my original A/C system this winter into my '71 cutlass.
>The evaporator is only a few years old but the compressor is the
>original.  I'm going to convert to 134a and I'm looking into getting a
>new style compressor that's smaller, lighter and more efficient than
>the dinosaur that I currently have.
>
>Has anyone done this conversion?  I glanced through the air
>conditioning book from Vintage Air at the bookstore and it sounds like
>you need new hoses, compressor, and condenser (that's the one my the
>radiator right?).
>
>So, what should I do?  Any info, input, etc.  will be appreciated as
>always.
>
>-greg
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 22:18:55 -0500
From: "Thomas Kobal" <tgkobal718@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: 1970 rocket 88

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does anyone know the value of a 1970 olds delta 88 rocket 455. has =
52,000 miles. all original, garage kept.
TGKOBAL718@worldnet.att.net

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE0B65.C643FF20
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>does anyone know the value of a 1970 =
olds delta=20
88 rocket 455. has 52,000 miles. all original, garage kept.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:TGKOBAL718@worldnet.att.net">TGKOBAL718@worldnet.att.net</=
A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE0B65.C643FF20--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 22:31:46 -0500
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Links Updated

Just re-formatted and updated my Links page. Unfortunately I lost a lot of
my old data. If your link is missing or you want to be added, Please check
it out and e-mail me with requests to be added.
happy oldsmobiling.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 21:32:12 -0600
From: "Dan & Peggy Dillabaugh" <housemvr@netnitco.net>
Subject: 69 Olds

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I have a 69 Olds Cutlass convertible with a 350.  I was in an accident =
about 2 months ago when a man blew a stop sign and hit me.  Now I'm =
having problems because I can't get a value for the car & I can't find =
parts.  My whole front end is crashed in.  I need fenders, bumper, hood =
ect.  Can anyone help me?  Thanks!       Joe

- ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BE0B5F.3F3E51C0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"BellGothic Blk BT" size=3D4>I have a =
69 Olds=20
Cutlass convertible with a 350.&nbsp; I was in an accident about 2 =
months ago=20
when a man blew a stop sign and hit me.&nbsp; Now I'm having problems =
because I=20
can't get a value for the car &amp; I can't find parts.&nbsp; My whole =
front end=20
is crashed in.&nbsp; I need fenders, bumper, hood ect.&nbsp; Can anyone =
help=20
me?&nbsp; Thanks!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
Joe</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BE0B5F.3F3E51C0--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 23:03:09 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Cam and manifold ID's

    Hi List!

    Got a couple of questions.  First, what is the difference between
the camshafts used on 2bbl and 4bbl 1971 Cutlasses, both with 350 CID,
automatic trans, A/C, and 8.5:1 compression?  In other words, what's the
difference in camshafts between 1971 engine code QJ and QP?  According
to the FAQ,  the same part number (400084) was used on both 2 bbl and
4bbl  350's with AT (doesn't specify with or without A/C).  According to
Year One, the 4bbl cams are "bigger" (their word).  As I recently
learned, by being the unwitting perpetuator and unintentional instigator
in a true millenial thread dealing with carb ID's--my sincere apologies
to all, one must be careful of the sources upon which one relies.
Therefore, I await enlightenment on this matter.
        Secondly, are there any ID numbers on the intake manifold,
besides the casting number, that would identify it as being of a
specific year and car?   From the FAQ I get the idea that some manifold
casting numbers covered a range of years.  I also didn't see any
listings for 350's--did I overlook them?.  Is there any VIN matching
number on the manifold in the same way as the engine block and tranny,
or is a manifold from a '70 indistingushible from '71 or '72?  If I ever
decided to put an OEM manifold on my car, I'd feel better about it if it
was the same year, if such a determination could be made.
- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 23:19:30 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: Cam and manifold ID's

yes, The Manifolds have a BIG 1, 2 , 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, ETC On them. My 66 330 has
a 3 on it, my dads 68 350 has a 5, so everyyear, the higher the number. A 71
would have a 8 on it

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 23:20:18 EST
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Any Aussie's here??

Im going to Australia from the 14th of Nov to Dec 6th.  Ill be in Perth and
Sydney.  Any Aussie Olds guys near either place??

Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 23:27:52 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Non-Olds: Gordon...grrrr....

Gordon is a fine driver...he tied the King's record for 13 wins in a single 
season; he's unstoppable during the last stages of the race; he's also 
incredibly tacky and self-centered.  First, he ran Shepherd off the dang 
track, 
then after he won the race, he did the Earnhardt-style doughnut show at the 
Start/Finish line, then he didn't even *mention* Shepherd in the after-race 
interview.  He didn't mention his wife for support, didn't mention the rest of 
this family, didn't mention anyone but the folks he kisses up to, namely 
DuPont 
and Chevrolet...and Ray Evernham and his Rainbow Warriors.

I was real offended when he didn't even mention Shepherd.  Even if it was 
totally Shepherd's fault, Gordon should've at least mentioned him in the 
interview.  A few years ago, when Earnhardt and Wallace got together and Rusty 
flipped his car, Earnhardt _stopped_ on the grass to make sure his competitor 
was okay.  Earnhardt's truly got class; Gordon needs some.

Sorry for the non-Olds content...had to get it off my chest.  Flames/comments 
private, please.  :-)

Jason K. Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-mail: jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 20:37:38 -0800
From: "John Young" <realtorjohn@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: 69 Olds Cutlass Convertible info

Dan,
Parts I'm sure will end up available here. NADA Collectible guide
(appraiser's and insurance Co's supposed guide low value 3925 Avg 6175 high
8650. I'll look into some parts sources, but watch the list.
realtorjohn@sprynet.com
69 442 W-32

- ----------
From: Dan & Peggy Dillabaugh <housemvr@netnitco.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 69 Olds Cutlass Convertible info
Date: Sunday, November 08, 1998 6:56 PM

I have a 69 Olds Cutlass convertible with a 350.  I was in an accident 2
months ago.  My whole front end was smashed.  The other person was at
fault.  My problem is I cannot get a value on my car & I cannot find parts.
 I need 2 front fenders, bumper, grill, hood ect.  Can anyone help me with
this problem?  Or send me  in the right direction?  Thanks!      Joe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 22:22:52 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Flowmasters for a 330?

I put a flowmaster exhaust on my 1971 Cutlass it fit perfect.  I had it 
welded at a shop, but I could have done it in the driveway.


>....If you 67 is like my either of my 65's, then I don't think that 
Flowmaster
>makes a exact fit exhaust kit. However, I had custom 2 1/2" duals 
installed on
>my Cutlass for $185 (I already had the Flowmaster three chambered 
mufflers),
>and the fit and finish is much better than any "press-to-fit" 
"pre-bent-
>always-a-little-off" mail order exhaust. JMO.
>
>Collyn 
>65 442&clone


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 01:28:10 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: Flowmasters for a 330?

71 and 66, Very little in common when it comes to exhost. The 68-72
442/Cutlass's had the same exhost systems (or very close) to a 68-Chevelle
Skylark, or GTO, so thats why you had one that fit so easy, the pre 68 cars
are harder to find parts and things that fit well.
Thanks
Kelly Erickson
1966 Cutlass
www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 22:33:44 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Flowmasters for a 330?

I wasn't saying it would fit a 66. I was just relaying my experiences 
with the flowmaster exhaust so that everyone would not be turned away 
from it.

>
>71 and 66, Very little in common when it comes to exhost. The 68-72
>442/Cutlass's had the same exhost systems (or very close) to a 
68-Chevelle
>Skylark, or GTO, so thats why you had one that fit so easy, the pre 68 
cars
>are harder to find parts and things that fit well.
>Thanks
>Kelly Erickson
>1966 Cutlass
>www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z/index.html


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 01:37:03 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: Flowmasters for a 330?

alright, Well, thank you. Do you know if they have a webpage so I may find out
if they make somthing? I could always just buy the mufflers and then buy the
rest from gardner, so that might work. Thanks
Kelly Erickson
1966 Cutlass
www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 01:31:40 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: MOTOR MOUNTS...AGAIN

If the car is a 70-72 "A" body car and it came from the factory with a 350,
it had 350 frame pads. This means if you throw in a 455 and use 455 motor
mounts, the block will sit higher in the front. Now if you use 350 motor
mounts on the 455 block, they will work, just use a torque-strap to keep
the pads from going bad. 

If the car came originally with a 455 motor then use 455 motor mounts,
naturally. Both 350 and 455 motor mounts will work on wither blcok. The
point is if the car mounting pads are 350 fram mounts than a 455 motor
mount will make the motor sit higher in the front...
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Heiser5@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: MOTOR MOUNTS...AGAIN
> Date: Sunday, November 08, 1998 6:14 PM
> 
> Hey all,
>     I know this has been hashed out many times before, but I just got my
> Cutlass back from a year long storing (if that's what you would call it)
at my
> brothers' barn which was left outside the whole time and I am going to
change
> motor mounts in it. It had a 350 in it, and now has a 455 in it. But, it
has
> 455 block motor mounts and 350 frame mounts. QUESTION: I have 455 frame
> mounts; should I change these out or will 350 mounts work on  the 455? I
guess
> what I am asking is, which combinations will work for it? Thanks for any
help
> all...
> 
> 
> Mark Heiser
> 71 Cutlass S...trying to revive her...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 00:50:58 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: MOTOR MOUNTS...AGAIN

If your car has 350 frame mounts, use 350 motor mounts for that car.  That
would be much easier then putting 455 frame mounts on.  You don't have to
take out the motor, just pull it up a little so that you can swap engine
mounts.  I have a 455 in my '81 Delta that originally had a 307 in it.  I
just bought the 307 motor mounts, put them in and everything was fine.  455
frame mounts and 455 motor mounts would work fine as well, but why would you
want to do that.  I don't think that 350 mounts are weaker or anything.  As
long as you keep them the same (motor and frame) you are fine.  The 350
mounts will bolt right up to the 455.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 06:46:23 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: 403 Color (fwd)

Respond directly to DYeager535@aol.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: probs

Greg, I hope you can forward this to the list for me, as my computer still
isn't up. My '77 403 is going back in the car. It is all primered, but I want
to know the correct color for the motor. When I bought it, it had a  blue
intake (and I assume the block, was too dirty to tell) with a black oil pan. I
would think the pan, intake, block, and water pump would all be the same
color? I believe corporate blue is the correct color, and I would appreciate
it if anyone could e-mail me direct with the correct name, and perhaps a
similar Dupli-color, Krylon, etc., number for the matching color, I would
appreciate it. Thanks, Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 06:47:51 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: '42 F66 (fwd)

Not on the list; respond to jcarnell@connect.ab.ca if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: jcarnell@connect.ab.ca
Subject: care and clubs

Hi GREG i am looking for information on my 1942 olds f66 -model 3519  four
door sedan more canadian would be nice wondering if you have any good leads
my oca #is 026410  and nlc edmonton is 098sincerly yours Jim Carnell fort
sask alberta 
ph 403 998-3563
Jim Carnell
9429-96th Street
Fort Saskatchewan, AB
T8L 1S5

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 07:23:49 -0600 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Emissions  307 vs 403 (getting long!)

Majority of the states require the car to pass emissions based on the model
year of the car, not what engine is in it.  In California (last I heard) you
can make any engine swap, but it MUST be the same engine family, and all
emissions systems from the car chassis MUST go on the new engine.  And be
fully functional.

95% of the time this will be more than close enough to pass emissions.  As
long as things are not tweaked heavily, you should have very little problems
with a 403 in place of a 307.  You could probably even do a 455 in place of
that ailing 260 and no one would care, as long as you blew good numbers.  

Cam overlap has a HUGE effect on emissions, when the overlap is high there
is a lot of raw fuel passed into the exhaust, unburned.  This is really bad
for CO.  This is a job for the AIR pump....Hence the reason Chevy had them
for YEARS when Olds/Pontiac did not.  Who is running efficient here?
Pontiac had them up to 1966 (mainly east coast), then ditched them with the
new 14 degree cyl heads (from 17 degree), then reintroduced them in 1980
with the newest run of emissions levels.  

*AIR = Air Injector Reactor, helps complete the combustion process when the
extremely hot air/fuel leaving the exhaust port gets introduced to fresh
air, creating a complete burn.  This is not just adding air, but when it is
that hot (2000+ degrees) and air is added if there is any more combustion to
take place, it will actually spontaneously ignite there in the exhaust.
This is why the AIR has the long air ports into the exhaust port up in the
head.  Hotter, better ignition.  Newer high tech DIS ignitions have all but
eliminated the need for AIR or "SMOG" pumps.  Burn it in the cyl and use it
to push the car down the road!    

*EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation, Reduces combustion chamber overall temp.
Dilutes the intake charge with exhaust gas.  Must be properly metered to
perform properly.  Intended to be used with specific distributor and carb
fuel and ignition curves.  Reason:  When exhaust gas gets over 2047 degrees
F, nitrides of oxygen are produced, this has been proven to be a leading
cause in acid rain.  And also has detrimental effects on the ozone.
Properly timed it will not make any difference in HP.

Catalytic Converter = This device converts the CO, HC and NOx to CO2, H2O
and N2.  It is only effective when over 600 degrees F.  Must be placed close
to engine for rapid heating.  The restrictiveness is directly proportional
to the rapid heating of the CC, and its maintaining the temp so it remains
effective while driving.  Dual Cats, it sometimes allows you to pass
emissions by having them, but the design is for 1 for temp and effectiveness
reasons.  Dual Cats may increase emissions, and possibly fail.  Sure, you
can get a car to pass emissions without it, but with, it is just plain
better, with a small (modern car!) penalty in HP loss.  Even the worst were
about 15-20 hp.  Makes a good justification for a 455......Got to reclaim
that hp loss from the cat....

EFE = Early Fuel Evaporation, Not an emissions device, only operates when
cold, below 70 degrees F.  Blocks drivers side manifold exit off, and forces
all exhaust in the intake, rapidly heating the intake and improving cold
emissions by warming the engine very quickly so that the CC and O2 sensor
reach operational temps.  Helps cold drivability.

CCC, DIS, C3I = Computer Command Control (E4MC/E4ME computer controlled
carb) system, the latter are the port fuel injector computer systems.  This
is a closed loop feedback emissions control system.  The carb is modified
with an oxygen sensor to monitor exhaust level oxygen, and report it back to
the computer.  A nominal value of .45 volts is desired, (.45 volts from the
sensor, and .45 from the ECM, makes a range of .1 to .9 volts) but the
output is constantly "swinging" as the O2 reports a lean, the M/C (Mixture
Control Solenoid) commands rich, then the O2 reports rich and the M/C
commands lean, etc.  Oldsmobile pioneered the ECM feedback with the 77
Toro's.  The unit did not work very well and most were converted back to
standard carb and distributor.  (I have a book on it from GM on how
troubleshoot it, if you Toro owners would like me to scan it)  Olds proto's
fuel system designs for GM.  This is noted with the 74-76 (possibly more
years) that Olds used the Q-Jet with the 3 metering rods instead of 2.  This
was the Auxiliary metering rod, so when there were smaller changes in
vacuum, it would deliver a smaller enrichment.  This allowed for a fine
tailoring of fuel to maintain a more precise air fuel mixture.  The carb
also had an Aneroid that would also help adjust for (I suspect) some
elevation changes.  (FYI, Olds pioneers carb fuel delivery (now???), Pontiac
pioneers ignition systems, Buick turbocharging/forced induction, Cadillac
EFI, Chevy ????)

*TCC = Torque Converter Clutch, Nothing to do really with emissions.  But
the old emissions laws were Grams per mile, so less rpm's, less emissions,
right?  So in a warped sense, it would be wrong to disconnect it, but, that
part is not tested at all.  Helps drivability by losing it, but suffers
mileage.  I will keep it and get me 3.08's!

* = Not in operation at WOT, no emissions testing is done at WOT.  Tune for
this then!
  
I hope this is some food for thought on emissions.  Most of the time a
properly tuned up engine with attention to detail on vacuum hoses cracked,
etc, PCV not working, carb fooled with like the idle mix screws, worn
throttle shafts, worn cam, leaking carb baseplate gaskets (you DO retorque
the carb every 6 months to 10 ft lbs. don't you?  Olds says to in 1976!)  

Blocking off emissions and not knowing what they are or what effect they
will have is why the feds have emissions laws like they do.  Most people
know nothing of them, and think they have the rights to disable them when
they feel the need.  Most are not that bad anyway.  If a 1996 T/A can run
13's in the 1/4 mi and get emissions cert, why can't I??  Work with, and not
around and you can make it run like a bat and get blessing of the
inspectors.  Talk to the inspectors.  Some are knowledgeable and will help
you with advice on what you can and cannot do to effect the emissions
testing.  Like cams and such.  Monitor factory grinds.  Olds had a fairly
healthy cam in the 442's of the 80's.  I think it would make a sweet 350
cam.  .440/.440 lift, good duration for a 3.73 geared car.  With a 350, more
like 3.42's.  

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 06:28:24 -0700
From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@hotmail.com>
Subject: Keyless Entry Troubleshooting

Hi Gang,

The keyless entry on my wife's '92 Cutlass Supreme (factory Oldsmobile
keyless entry system) quit working.  Both remotes quit working at the same
time, which leads me to believe something is wrong with the module.  Does
anyone have any troubleshooting hints?  The owner's manual says to reset
the module, but that didn't help.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Bob 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----
 Robert J. Lavey			mailto://rjlavey@hotmail.com
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.			Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302			Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 22:18:55 -0500
From: "Thomas Kobal" <tgkobal718@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: 1970 rocket 88

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does anyone know the value of a 1970 olds delta 88 rocket 455. has =
52,000 miles. all original, garage kept.
TGKOBAL718@worldnet.att.net

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>does anyone know the value of a 1970 =
olds delta=20
88 rocket 455. has 52,000 miles. all original, garage kept.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:TGKOBAL718@worldnet.att.net">TGKOBAL718@worldnet.att.net</=
A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 08:57:08 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: running dead lean

'Morning  all,

I have rcently modified a 350.  Since mods, carb runs way lean & am unable 
to adjust significantly. Previously, carb seemed to work okay except for 
leaking well plugs

First, FYI, the mods:

Had low com, #8 heads, switched to essentially W-31 heads (#5's with bigger 
valves, shaved .020))  Estimating compression increas from 7.x -9.x.

EGR to non-EGR intake

Stock cam to Lunati (Dur @ .050, 214/224  Gross lift .472/.496)

Rhoades variable duration lifters

Other stuff essentially stock replacements_
______________________________________________________

Searched really long & hard for vaccum leaks. Think I'm okay there, so 
possibilities I am considering are:

Crap knocked loose in carb while off motor & being handled by dufous home 
mechanic.

Sealed too many well plugs. I sealed  (JB Weld)  what I took to be four well 
plugs - 2 big ones & 2 smaller ones> 

Fuel pump not working adequately.

Carb needs bigger primary jets to deal with modifications (don't know what's 
there, didn't fiddle.

Possible confounding variable - old gas in tank (prolly 5 mo's)--don't 
                ^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^
remember if I added stabilixer. Never expected to take so long with project.
______________________________________

Any thoughts?

tia 
Roger Hitson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 09:53:28 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Muffler Recommendation

I'm looking for recommendations on a new set of mufflers for my 68 442.
I leaning towards Dynomax super turbo.  Does anybody have any
recommendations?  Any ideas on which mufflers flow the best?

- -Dan
________

Having just crossed that 40 year old threshold, I have to say that I find
Flowmasters a bit too loud (especially since every 5.slow Mustang seems to
have them).  I've run the Dynomax mufflers exclusively on several 442s and
have nothing but good things to say.  They are built to the same standards
as OEM mufflers, the sound is exactly what I'm looking for, and most tests
that I've seen rank them at or near the top in terms of flow ability.  My
preferred exhaust system is headers, 2 1/2" pipes to the mufflers, and 2
1/4" tailpipes.  A hot tip for the tailpipes is to use the 70 GTO Judge
pipes.  Olds (and most A-bodies) used 2" tailpipes, but the Judge used 2
1/4" pipes.  These pipes fit great (you'll need to use an adapter to neck
down from the 2 1/2" outlet on the muffler to the 2 1/4" tailpipe), but
have one drawback in that they have down turned ends.  This is fine for a
Cutlass with a straight bumper, but obviously won't work on a 442.  You'll
need to cut off the end and weld on a short section of staight 2 1/4" pipe,
followed by the chrome trumpet.  I think I paid something like $35 apiece
for these pipes last time I bought them (about six years ago).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 06:55:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!(kind of long)

I have found that the NADA is not a reliable source for estimating the
value of the muscle cars. That book is more for the newer cars. In
order to get a "fair" (If that word even exists in an insurance agents
vocab) price, one must fine a price guide made exclusively for the
muscle cars.
==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 09:57:02 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: TBI

Wouldnt that 350 Olds be diesel?
_________

Nope.  Late 70s Caddys used a port-injected 350 Olds gasoline engine as an
option.  The one problem is that this setup used a trouble-plagued analog
computer controller instead of today's digital version.  There's been a lot
of talk about adapting a digital controller to this manifold setup, but I'm
not aware of anyone who's done it yet.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 07:01:33 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: interior vacuum leak?

> A few days ago, I got rid of the vacuum ball that is hosed
> between the carb and the vent control.

Well, better put it back. It serves as a booster/amplifier and
reservoir for the HVAC system, among other things. Its one way
valve prevents functional vacuum within the HVAC system from
seesawing up and down as engine intake manifold vacuum changes.
Among other things, you're going to notice your heater blowing
alternately hot and cold air when driving in cold weather, and
your vent settings will change by themselves between Defrost,
Vent and Heater/Floor. You may also not get enough accumulated
vacuum to operate all the servos in the dash when you change
the settings.

BTW, why did you take it out anyway? If it's in the way of
something else, you can reinstall it anywhere; all it needs is 
its two vacuum lines connected and you're in business.

> Now, I have what sounds like a constant vacuum leak coming
> from the vent control area.

This might be an unrelated leak from the rotary valve on the back
of the control panel. Without the reservoir in place, it's hard 
to guess from here what sort of pressures and vacuums are being
shoved through it now.

> I also, at the same time, hooked the vent control line to get
> constant vacuum from the carb.

I don't believe you _will_ get constant vacuum from the carb. I'd
strongly suggest you put the reservoir back in, then see if the
rotary valve on the control panel still needs replacing.

> Anyone know if this sound is to be expected with these changes? 

Yes, I'd say it's pretty likely.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 10:02:52 EST
From: Supafli50@aol.com
Subject: Re: Keyless Entry Troubleshooting

Did you check to see if the fuse is loose or blown.  My mom has a Blazer with
the keyless entry and that is what happened with hers.  I'm guessing its the
same because of GM
Matt

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 07:07:29 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Keyless Entry Troubleshooting

> The keyless entry on my wife's '92 Cutlass Supreme (factory
> Oldsmobile keyless entry system) quit working.  Both remotes
> quit working at the same time, which leads me to believe something
> is wrong with the module. Does anyone have any troubleshooting 
> hints?

I would make sure the remotes are working by either temporarily
reprogramming another car to operate with them, if you've got access
to one, or at least unscrewing the backs and having their batteries
tested.

> The owner's manual says to reset the module, but that didn't help.

What does it tell you to do? On my '93 SSEi, you jumper bottom right
to top left on the underdash connector, at which point the car will
cycle its doorlocks to acknowledge it's in learning mode. Then press
only one button of each remote that it's supposed to learn (maximum
of two remotes). If the car doesn't respond, I'd say the remotes are
dead. Does this correspond with what you did?

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 07:50:55 PST
From: "Robert Lavey" <rjlavey@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Keyless Entry Troubleshooting

Andy, et. al.

I've checked the fuse, and it was okay.  The manual says to ground a 
wire in the trunk to put the system into learning mode.  I cannot 
remember if it cycled the locks, but I will try again this evening.

Thanks for all the suggestions!

Bob

>From:	"Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
>To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Re: Keyless Entry Troubleshooting
>Date:	Mon, 09 Nov 1998 07:07:29 PST
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>> The keyless entry on my wife's '92 Cutlass Supreme (factory
>> Oldsmobile keyless entry system) quit working.  Both remotes
>> quit working at the same time, which leads me to believe something
>> is wrong with the module. Does anyone have any troubleshooting 
>> hints?
>
>I would make sure the remotes are working by either temporarily
>reprogramming another car to operate with them, if you've got access
>to one, or at least unscrewing the backs and having their batteries
>tested.
>
>> The owner's manual says to reset the module, but that didn't help.
>
>What does it tell you to do? On my '93 SSEi, you jumper bottom right
>to top left on the underdash connector, at which point the car will
>cycle its doorlocks to acknowledge it's in learning mode. Then press
>only one button of each remote that it's supposed to learn (maximum
>of two remotes). If the car doesn't respond, I'd say the remotes are
>dead. Does this correspond with what you did?
>
>-- Andy
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 08:19:28 PST
From: "Erwin Mendoza" <olds87442@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: November JWO mystery solved...

Thanks Doug!*S* I called OCA on Friday, I too paid the extra $$$ to 
receive it first call mail also, I was told on the phone by a man that 
he had just received his that day and he lives only 20 miles away from 
where they're printed, I thought mine got lost in the mail again, it 
happened with my Sept issue which arrived just 2 days before the Oct 
issue! Thanks again for relaying the message!!

Erwin Mendoza    87 442
Edison,NJ        OCA#26971


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 11:46:23 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: no volts at starter ????

Yo list   (Balboa-esque accent),

            I worked on a late 80's full size yesterday -
305 bowtie - car sat over the summer - the guys tries to start
it - no cranking - starter clicks but does not turn - smoke from under the
hood -
(this is all second hand as it is told to me) - where I come in - yank the
starter -
bench tests good - replace starter - grab voltage tester - 12+ volts at the
starter
cable (big lead) - tell guy to turn key - 0 volts at small lead from switch
but interior lights
go dim - scratching my head now ..........  any ideas ????

fusible link ??????
broken wire ???????



Tanks
The General

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 11:49:18 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal

> Serves me right for trying to correct Mr. Padavano... :)

Actually, I think Mr. Padavano is in reality Dr. Oldsmobile.  He changed
his name after going into retirement....
__________

Actually, the retirement was forced following the incident between Waldo
Wind Tunnel and the intern...

Seriously, while I appreciate the kudos (I'm having a wider door installed
in my office to allow my head to pass through), I can't take all the
credit.  Much of what I know I learned from the folks here on the list;
there are some very knowledgeable folks.  It just goes to show that the
collective knowledge base is much greater than that of any one individual.
Of course, owning 14 A-body Oldsmobiles over the last 24 years also helps.
I couldn't afford to pay someone to work on them, so I taught myself.  In
the process, I made just about every stupid mistake possible...

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 09:02:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 69 Olds

> I have a 69 Olds Cutlass convertible with a 350.  I was in an
accident about 2 months ago when a man blew a stop sign and hit me. 
Now I'm having problems because I can't get a value for the car & I
can't find parts.  My whole front end is crashed in.  I need fenders,
bumper, hood ect.  Can anyone help me?  Thanks!       Joe


Joe, 

I was in the same situation for my 69 Olds also. Except for it was a
female who failed to yield when making a left hand turn. Let me tell
you this, grills are hard to find and they are expensive! I have not
been able to find anyone with bumpers though. There is a yard here in
North Dakota that says that they have a bumper, but it needs
rechroming. The name of the yard is Weaklies and they are in Grand
Forks, ND. The number is (701) 772-2112. You can also try
http://www.paddockparts.com they have a catalog for the Cutlass's.
Good luck on getting an estimate! Also good luck on getting an
appraisal if you need one! I have been messing with my claim for over
a month now and it still isn't settled! Her insurance company is
trying to state the value of my car according to the NADA book. That
says that my car is only worth $2,000. But, in all reality it is about
$3,700 to $4,500 in value. Just don't let the insurance screw ya over!
Good luck in the parts!

Del

PS If you find anything, drop me a line and let me know if there are
more of those! I need all the grill pieces, light bezels, and
headlight fillers. Thanks!







==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 09:11:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: no volts at starter ????

>             I worked on a late 80's full size yesterday -
> 305 bowtie - car sat over the summer - the guys tries to start
> it - no cranking - starter clicks but does not turn - smoke from
under the
> hood -
> (this is all second hand as it is told to me) - where I come in -
yank the
> starter -
> bench tests good - replace starter - grab voltage tester - 12+ volts
at the
> starter
> cable (big lead) - tell guy to turn key - 0 volts at small lead from
switch
> but interior lights
> go dim - scratching my head now ..........  any ideas ????



Are the cables tight on the battery? The way it sounds with the smoke
from under the hood is that there is a poor connection at the battery.
With nothing requiring a load, voltage is good, but when you try to
take that extreme load to the starter, the connection isn't good
enough to allow that kind of draw through. Clean posts and terminals,
retighten and try again.

Del






==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 10:21:20 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Trans Am Steering Wheel

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I just recently scored a Firebird Trans Am steering wheel on the bone =
yard for $ 8.  Orbital sanded the middle metal section, looks like new.  =
Painted the grip section, looks good.  I am just curios if this 'wheel =
will fit my '81 Delta.  I have the telescopic adjustment on the car, but =
instead of that little mushroom adjuster I just bolted in a bolt, and it =
holds.  I have seen the TA steering wheel on some Cutlasses so I figure =
it should work.  I would like a new grant one, but up here in Canada =
half-decent ones are about $125 Vs. $8 I paid for the TAs.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/th2004r/propane)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)

igor455@home.com=20

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<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>I just recently scored a Firebird Trans Am steering wheel on the =
bone yard=20
for $ 8.&nbsp; Orbital sanded the middle metal section, looks like =
new.&nbsp;=20
Painted the grip section, looks good.&nbsp; I am just curios if this =
'wheel will=20
fit my '81 Delta.&nbsp; I have the telescopic adjustment on the car, but =
instead=20
of that little mushroom adjuster I just bolted in a bolt, and it =
holds.&nbsp; I=20
have seen the TA steering wheel on some Cutlasses so I figure it should=20
work.&nbsp; I would like a new grant one, but up here in Canada =
half-decent ones=20
are about $125 Vs. $8 I paid for the TAs.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Igor Todorovic</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)</DIV>
<DIV>1981 Regency (307/th2004r/propane)</DIV>
<DIV>1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><A href=3D"mailto:igor455@home.com">igor455@home.com</A> =
</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 11:29:58 -0600 (EST)
From: Steve.Johnson@math.tamu.edu
Subject: Save 63 F-85 from crusher?

I have '63 F-85 which has been sitting in a barn in SW Minnesota for the
past several years.  The farmer is ready to clean up the barn, and the
car has to go.  I checked on it last summer, and the 215 engine turned
over just fine.  In fact, the 215 has less than 5000 miles on it since
it's rebuild back in the mid 80's.  The engine (minimally) needs
gaskets and some carb work.  The muffler has rusted off.

The driver's side left rear wheel is frozen -- either a wheel cylinder
or rear-end problem.  The rear wheels are also not perpendicular to the
axle -- not sure about the cause of this one.

The body is in OK shape, with some rust, although less than when it was
rebuilt and painted in 1980.

Glass is OK (1 broken wing), and lights are functional.  Even the
stereo from 1980 still works.

The interior needs to be replaced as it has been the home to critters
through the years.

Question: is it worth trying to bring it back to life?

Here's the problem.  I live in Texas, 1200 miles away from the car.
Getting the car here as well as keeping it in the driveway probably
wouldn't be good for my marriage. So if anyone is interested taking this
off my hands for a resto or parts project, let me know via e-mail.
I think it could become a driveable car agin with a few weekends of
work.

- - Steve Johnson
  Steve.Johnson@math.tamu.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 10:30:57 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Interior Painting

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I am soon to get my car back from the body shop.  The car will be =
metallic blue with silver stripes.  The interior is old, warn gold.  I =
would like to change it to gray.  My dad does seats, so he will be =
willing to reupholster a set of buckets (by the way, which car will =
buckets fit from.  A few times at the local yard I have seen the black =
swivel in a Cutlass or a Regal.  Will these fit my '81 Delta).  I will =
change the carpet and headliner to gray.  The door upholstery my dad can =
also do.  However, as far as the plastic trim goes, is there paint that =
you can get to paint this.  If so, what kind of results am I looking at. =
 Decent look or look-like-it-was-painted-ugly look.  Thanks.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/th2004r/propane)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)

igor455@home.com=20

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Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>I am soon to get my car back from the body shop.&nbsp; The car will =
be=20
metallic blue with silver stripes.&nbsp; The interior is old, warn =
gold.&nbsp; I=20
would like to change it to gray.&nbsp; My dad does seats, so he will be =
willing=20
to reupholster a set of buckets (by the way, which car will buckets fit=20
from.&nbsp; A few times at the local yard I have seen the black swivel =
in a=20
Cutlass or a Regal.&nbsp; Will these fit my '81 Delta).&nbsp; I will =
change the=20
carpet and headliner to gray.&nbsp; The door upholstery my dad can also=20
do.&nbsp; However, as far as the plastic trim goes, is there paint that =
you can=20
get to paint this.&nbsp; If so, what kind of results am I looking =
at.&nbsp;=20
Decent look or look-like-it-was-painted-ugly look.&nbsp; Thanks.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>Igor Todorovic</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)</DIV>
<DIV>1981 Regency (307/th2004r/propane)</DIV>
<DIV>1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><A href=3D"mailto:igor455@home.com">igor455@home.com</A>=20
</DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 09:31:01 -0800
From: "John Young" <realtorjohn@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: 69 Olds

Guys,
does Chris Smetama still have anything left on his parts car?
I believe his e-mail is chris@abcs.com. good luck, I'll forward what I
find.

realtorjohn@sprynet.com
69 442 W-32
- ----------
> From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 69 Olds
> Date: Monday, November 09, 1998 9:02 AM
> 
> > I have a 69 Olds Cutlass convertible with a 350.  I was in an
> accident about 2 months ago when a man blew a stop sign and hit me. 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 11:46:42 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re:heat

Something you might want to look out for is the universal fit heater
valve. The vacuum hose stub might be shorter than what is required for
your Olds. Your Olds HVAC vacuum lines might use a rubber end with a
little loop. This requires a longer stub to stay connected. Check before
installing. Car Quest is one store that carries the wrong valve.

- -- 
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1595
*********************************

