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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1582


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, November 2 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1582



Burnout page updated
Re: HEI Dist.
Re: sagging rear
'70 442 F/S
Re: Addendum...EPA rules
Re: Suspension Question - Poly vs rubber
Suspension Question - Polly vs rubber - Go for it!
Day of mourning
Re: Fw: WARNING!!!!!---Telephone Scam
'72 Vista Cruiser
springs
RE: springs
71 cut conv advice needed
RE: Fw: WARNING!!!!!---Telephone Scam
Re: Suspension Question
Re: Fw: WARNING!!!!!---Telephone Scam
Re: Suspension Question
Wasting bandwidth, non Olds, a Rant, way too long!
442 & Cutlass center console
70 Trunk Molding
Wanted to Buy
Re: Lou's rant
Re:
Re: 70 442 AND PARTS FOR SALE
'69 Oil Leak
Re: '69 Oil Leak
Needing dual exhaust......
Re: CB, 442 Cvt FS?
65 thru 67 font shock absorbers
T3 repros?
vintage olds parts resources
Re: T3 repros?
Re: '69 Oil Leak
Re: Exhaust Conversion.
Re: 70 Trunk Molding
Re: 65 thru 67 font shock absorbers
Re: T3 repros?
Re: 70 Trunk Molding
Re: 65 thru 67 font shock absorbers
Re: 70 Trunk Molding
70 Supreme window weatherstrip
Olds EFI + Headers
Re: T3 repros?
75 H/O stickers.
'75 H/O  duel exhaust
Holley Projection
Re: Olds EFI + Headers
Re: Holley Projection
price of a G-body
[Fwd: 71 cut conv advice needed]
Post / Non-Post Differences
Re: Post / Non-Post Differences
Re: Olds EFI + Headers
wheels
Re: Holley Projection
Re: Post / Non-Post Differences
Racing Experience this past weekend
Re: '69 Oil Leak
Re: 
Re: Post / Non-Post Differences
W-25 Hood Replicas
Pleasant experience with a part vendor

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 23:16:32 -0800 (PST)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Burnout page updated

Hi Gang,
      Well...I hope this makes it easier for everyone. I've
thumbnailed all the pics on the burnout page.....hope it loads faster
for everyone now.
I'll add the emails back later, along with some other improvements.
         The  burnouts page is at:
         http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

         Later,





==
John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com  
  ICQ # 16956740      Lithia Springs, Ga.
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442 
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts    
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 01:18:24 -0600
From: "Ron Hengerer" <rhengerer@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: HEI Dist.

Just what I needed.

Thanks Ron

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 06:01:58 -0600
From: Edmund Terry Fiene <kawtu2@flash.net>
Subject: Re: sagging rear

Steve,
  I noticed none of the replies mentioned Air Lift brand air bags. These
fit inside the coils and are adjustable by air pressure. You can add air
until the desired ride height is achieved. I have used these in a great
many vehicles. The ride is not stiffened so much as to be objectionable
(which air shocks do). Your shocks are free to function as they are
supposed to.
  Just yesterday, I installed a set of Air Lift bags in my '64 El
Camino. I am very happy with the result. My '95 Impala SS benefits
greatly by them. They can be installed with a "T" fitting, to air up
both at once (convenient), or individual valves to adjust each side
separately (racing/performance use). I use individual valves. The kits
come with fittings for either. These retail for about $90, but can be
bought from discounters like Summit (1-800-230-3030), Jeg's
(1-800-345-4545), or JC Whitney for about $65.
Terry
Terry Fiene - Fort Worth, TX
'76 Luv w/rear mounted 455 Olds
'64 El Camino w/350-4 speed
'95 Impala SS w/many mods- recently sold
http://www.flash.net/~kawtu2/
mailto:kawtu2@flash.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 07:40:48 -0500
From: "Mark Thurman" <Thurman@kvnet.org>
Subject: '70 442 F/S

To All:
In the "Central KY Auto World" - 70 Olds Cutlass 442; 455, auto, a/c, ps,
pb, have books, window sticker, etc., first $5700 takes it!
I was able to stop at the lot yesterday just long enough to check a few
things: 34487 VIN #, 455 with at least 1 "E" head (couldn't see the
passenger side or the block # to check for #'s matching engine), a/c
components there but compressor belt missing, buckets & console, bumpers are
in good shape but need re-chroming - correct dual cut-out rear with
"trumpets" in place on exhaust, interior is very, very good - dark green, no
ram air, after market chrome wheels, normal wheel well rust, both rear
quarters have been patched & bondo'd, some rust in truck to wheel-house
area, passenger fender probably replaced - beige paint showing thru in
places, paint is dark green - from door jams etc, orig. color was "sherwood
green" but I didn't get to check the paint code on the cowl tag.  Saleman
said they would "entertain offers", it's been there at least 2 weeks.  Might
be a good starting point for someone....If anyone's interested email me
direct Thurman@kvnet.org and I'll get send you the lot's 1-800 #, address,
directions, etc.......mt

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 08:49:57 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Addendum...EPA rules

- -----Original Message-----
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>


> The kids they have running
>the tests probably won't know how to tell what year that engine is...

Nor do they care. In Connecticut it would go like this -

They check for cat's: yup you got 'em. You pass test, you go home with
sticker on winshield. Next.

You fail: inspector comes out to have a look-see. Now you may have to do the
song & dance routine. But chances are good you'd be able to convince someone
that a 60's 425 came with duals. On a 307.....NOT.

drc


drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 08:56:50 -0600
From: Dan Williams <442much@plutonium.net>
Subject: Re: Suspension Question - Poly vs rubber

Performance Suspension Components also has ploygraphite as long as you order
black.  Also, their lifetime warranty is better than PSTs 20 year and the
prices are cheaper.  As far as rubber, it looks as if Kanter is the
cheapest.

- -Dan

mbloomer wrote:

> Dan,
> If you want Polygraphite then you'll have to go with PST as I think
> they are the only ones that offer it.  The difference is between
> Polygraphite and your normal Polyeurathane (sp?).  PST is the only
> ones I know of that impregnate the poly w/graphite to elimanate the
> tendancy to squeak.  I've used the PST parts including body mounts
> and never had a problem with squeaks when installed properly and
> it makes the car feel a lot tighter.  I could be wrong, but I think that
> the ones from PSC don't have the graphite and that is the cost
> difference.
>
> Mike B
> mbloomer@gateway.net
>
> >I'm trying to decide between Polygraphite vs rubber suspension
> >components.  The only reason I don't want to go with the ploy is of
> >course the squeaking problem.  For the Ploy, it seems like a better
> >choice to go with Performance Suspension Components than PST
> >(Performance Suspension Technology).   Performance Suspension Components
> >offers a lifetime warranty and is cheaper.  Any suggestions?
> >
> >-Dan
> >--

- --
Dan Williams                            442Much@plutonium.net
Marion, IA                                     68 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 10:01:41 -0500
From: "<GJC> Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Suspension Question - Polly vs rubber - Go for it!

	I too, have Energy Suspension Polly bushings on the CC-IROC-SS-#1
prototype. I HIGHLY recommend the conversion. During installation you are to
utalize the packet of silicone lubricant, (usually about 2oz supplied), on
all flex points like, the upper control arm mounting shaft, lower control
arm mounting bolts, and all the rear mounting bolts. All bushing internals
get coated prior to the mounting bolt insertion.. This stuff comes packaged
in a clear bubble pack. Snip the end and squeeze away. This stuff is like
Vaseline except about 10 X thicker. There are a few different bushing
compounds available. The standard Polyurethane and Polly Graphite. (though I
only found urethane for the G-body Cutlass). The urethane usually come with
a 2oz assembly packet of silicone grease. Polly Graphite bushings come with
Graphite impregnated within. The second version helps fight later squeaks.

Tip:
	Before attempting the bushing swap, place the new bushings in a 
freezer for
at least 24 hours. This will shrink the overall bushing and metal collars to
their smallest dimensions. Allowing the bushing to more easily slip into
place. I used an air chisel to remove the old bushings + collars. You might
need to use a hydraulic press on yours. Assemble the units back onto the
car. Hardly a squeak anywhere. For those squeak fanatics, a grease nipple
fitting hole can be drilled (if not supplied) and fitting installed. Just
make sure the nipples don't protrude from the bushing in an area where they
will be broken off during suspension travel. I purchased a high temp
silicone grease (milky-clear color) cartridge that's used solely on the
bushings. This keeps replenishing the silicone slipperiness whenever the car
is generally greased. I do occasionally hear a squeak.

By the way, I suggest that if you replace the bushings front And rear with
Polly bushings, Do them all. Don't take any shortcut. There are separate
purchasable bushings for the upper shock absorber mount shaft as well as the
Swaybar mount bushings including adjustable drag link. Front and rear
bushings come as separate carded sets.

After the Polly bushings + pro-Kit springs were installed, A world of
difference arose in that the cars cornering attitude and suspension
deflection rate became unbelievably controllable. Quincy's suspension felt
like that of a small sports car. Cornering flat and nimble & taught like an
independent 4 corner small sports car. The overall suspension improvement
feels unexplainably fantastic. If it weren't for the cars weight, you could
close your eyes and the G-force and flat attitude feels like a  Pors*h. Just
unbelievably GREAT. The ride is stiffer but not jarringly so. When standing
still, it's hard to rebound the suspension more than 1". Yet the
progressiveness of the Eibach springs allotted more than enough travel to
handle anything in he way. The car stature also dropped apx 1.5" in ride
height. The tires now set in the fenders as opposed to seeing the top tread
visible. A world of difference in the cars visual.

Also install the best gas shocks you can get. Their dampening ability better
matches the new bushings than anything obtainable stock.

In the CC-IROC-SS case all steering link ends as well as both upper + lower
ball joints were replaced. After completing the conversion, a mountain road
ride immediately pointed out that a quicker steering box was needed. I've
forgotten the stamped codes but the stock Cutlass ratio is (I believe) 1:16.
I opted to rebuild + install a 1:12 steering box from a Z-28 com*ro. I
believe the GN's, HO, Reg*les, and a few other G-body units used these
quicker steering boxes. Anyone know of one quicker than 1:12?

Cost:

Full set bushings front + rear:              $289.00
Eibach Pro-Kit springs (El Cam*no):          $319.00
Sway bar bushings + adjustable drag links:    $39.00
Used 1:12 steering box:                       $50.00
Cartridge of silicone grease:                 $15.00
Front end alignment, (must):                 $60.00
Paint for control arms + rear end:            $10.00
Nitrogen shock replacements                   $75.00
                                             =======
                 Total for hardware parts    $793.00

I would estimate the total shop time (at apx.)
to convert all the car components as
mentioned to 6 - 8 hours. If your not able to
do the conversion, that adds about another   $315.00

Not a cheap endeavor but well, well worth it...

- -----Regards,

   G.J.C
Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
Rt-1, Box-615
 Bailey Road
Purling, N.Y.
 12470-9709

ICQ# 5209322
 CC-IROC-SS
518-622-0376
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

Couse Custom Cutlass,
'86 CC-IROC-SS-#1 = "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/~cousecustoms/

Join Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List -
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody

Once a member, post to:
mailto:olds_gbody@listbot.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 10:14:54 EST
From: SHELTERMEN@aol.com
Subject: Day of mourning

I'd like to declare this an official day of mourning.  I sold my 76 Cutlass
Street Stock.
     : (     Guess I have to look for another Olds to go around and around in.

Tim

'68 Delmont
'76 Cutlass Street Stock (RIP)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 07:23:02 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: WARNING!!!!!---Telephone Scam

>> I received a telephone call today from an individual identifying
>> himself as an AT&T Service Technician [blah, blah, blah...]

Oh, puh-leeze, not this again...

1) Let's stop forwarding non-Olds junk to this list; it's noisy
enough as it is.

2) Here's what AT&T themselves have to say on this supposed threat
to the free world: http://www.att.com/features/0398/90pound.html

3) Here's a useful overview on the whole subject, which contains
links to other sites including a mini-FAQ on the topic:
http://urbanlegends.miningco.com/library/weekly/aa021898.htm

Now please, no more non-Olds "Public Alerts"!

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 11:53:59 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: '72 Vista Cruiser

Steve,
    Good choice!  Althought I am not a big fan of wagons I would get a Vista
Cruiser above all.  I love that tinted top window!

>I always wanted a Vista Cruiser and found one a few months back.  Its a '72
>with 110k original miles which had some sort of a "rebuild" at 80k (ten
...  The add on water temp guage seems to say it usually
>runs at about 195-200 degrees. It went as high as 215 degrees in the heat
of
>the summer with the AC on. Is that too hot?

Yes, check the thermostat and change the coolant.  Other than that refer a
local auto store you trust or try whatever the owners manual suggests.

>I replaced the shocks all around with new ones but the rear end sags still.
>There is a guy that will replace the rear coil springs with what he calls
>"heavy duty" replacement coils springs for about $125.  Will that cure the
>rear end sag so that i dont drag bottom when i leave a driveway too fast?
>Or is a better option to buy some of those air shocks for the rear end and
>install them?

I would never just put on air shocks but $125 for springs is more than I
would spend.  J.C.Whitney has replacement springs for less than that.  As
far as shocks go just be sure to get some good gas shocks.  KYB or Monroe or
whatever anyone on the list suggests.

>It also needs new door seal/weatherstripping and felt window liners
>sometime.  Are those items readily available and something that a novice
>could figure out how to install?

Yes, they are simple.  I would never hire a pro to install
weatherstripping(or much else for that matter).  Jim Chermac should have
them.

>The power rear window works, but has a bit of a groan to it going up the
>last 3-4 inches. I looked at the window channel and could see no
>obstructions. Is there some preventative maintenance or lubrication I
should
>do to keep it from failing?

Lubricate the channel and the rollers.  That reminds me I need to lube mine!

>Last question, sorry for the length of this, where can I get a book like a
>chiltons or something on this model?  I am no expert mechanic but can
>usually follow the step by steps in such books pretty well with my basic
set
>of tools.  What book would you recommend for the most common repairs or
>replacements and maintenance that I may need to make to this car over the
>next 20 years that I would like to drive it? Thanks.

Do yourself a favor, get the original shop manual.  Chiltons is fine to get
the work done and get it out there and get it dirty but there is nothing
like the shop manual.  Good Luck and don't sweat the length.  You have alot
of important issues.  Good Luck and happy Oldsmobiling.

Jim Brady
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 11:27:35 -0800
From: "Greg" <gjackso1@san.rr.com>
Subject: springs

Can anyone give me the free standing hight of good coil springs for a 72
Supreme.  I am trying to find out if I should replace mine.
Thanks!
Greg

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 14:41:43 -0500
From: "<GJC> Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: springs

Greg;

Can't give you the specs on height of your springs. I would say though that
if you have it apart, Go for it. After all, they are 26 years old. They must
have some degree of sag in them.

- -----Regards,

   G.J.C
Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
Rt-1, Box-615
 Bailey Road
Purling, N.Y.
 12470-9709

ICQ# 5209322
 CC-IROC-SS
518-622-0376
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

Couse Custom Cutlass,
'86 CC-IROC-SS-#1 = "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/~cousecustoms/

Join Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List -
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody

Once a member, post to:
mailto:olds_gbody@listbot.com


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Greg
Sent: Sunday, November 01, 1998 2:28 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: springs


Can anyone give me the free standing hight of good coil springs for a 72
Supreme.  I am trying to find out if I should replace mine.
Thanks!
Greg

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 14:15:13 -0600
From: Gregory Howze <"ghowze@primary.net"@primary.net>
Subject: 71 cut conv advice needed

My 71' 350 2 barr. in my cut needs to be rebuilt but I don't have the
money to do it.  A guy said he would sell me a 85 350 4-barr with 32,000
miles and install it minus the air pollution for $850.  I planned to
enjoy my drop top and rebuild the original engine this summer when i can
work more hours.  Is the 85 350 worth it?  Will it fit?  Any advice is
welcomed

Scott

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 15:50:21 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Fw: WARNING!!!!!---Telephone Scam

Hey Andy, don't be a dick, the guy's trying to spread information around to
help people out.  Who cares if it's non-Olds, he's helping out Olds-folks.
Yeah his post really took up alot of space here, I had tp restart my
computer because it was too tired from downloading that massive message.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Andrew C. Green
> Sent: Sunday, November 01, 1998 10:23 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Fw: WARNING!!!!!---Telephone Scam
>
>
> >> I received a telephone call today from an individual identifying
> >> himself as an AT&T Service Technician [blah, blah, blah...]
>
> Oh, puh-leeze, not this again...
>
> 1) Let's stop forwarding non-Olds junk to this list; it's noisy
> enough as it is.
>
> 2) Here's what AT&T themselves have to say on this supposed threat
> to the free world: http://www.att.com/features/0398/90pound.html
>
> 3) Here's a useful overview on the whole subject, which contains
> links to other sites including a mini-FAQ on the topic:
> http://urbanlegends.miningco.com/library/weekly/aa021898.htm
>
> Now please, no more non-Olds "Public Alerts"!
>
> -- Andy
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 15:29:00 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Suspension Question

Bob, 
seen them, one's I saw were rubber, don't know where to find them, some one
like JC Whitney catalog. Sorry. 
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

> I used to have a pair of what I would call "rear coil spring perch
> extenders" from a '68 442 I bought for parts.  These parts sat on top of
> the rear coil spring perches and effectively raised the lower mounting
> position of the rear coil spring by 0.75" to 1.00".  Has anyone heard of
> these or know where I can find another set?

> Bob
- ----

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 16:38:00 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Fw: WARNING!!!!!---Telephone Scam

I probably shouldn't get involved in this but..................

The phone trick only works on PBX systems it will not work on your home
phone.

2 cents

Mark Hahn
75 Delta 88 Royale Conv.
Cincinnati Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 16:48:05 EST
From: GaryDW30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Suspension Question

I haven't seen these "cans" in years. They do work!
You can use them to help preload suspension. By trial an error using slightly
different heights per side you can get a straighter leave coming off the line.
You can make your own, using thick wall pipe or pipe connectors, and a very
large flat washer or steel plate approximately 1/8" thick.
I started with 2-1/2" for tire clearance.
Just a thought, hope it gives you something to work from.
Gary
69 442 W-30 4 spd.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 16:39:05 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Wasting bandwidth, non Olds, a Rant, way too long!

To all, 
Have a 73 Vega, trying to sell, piece of Sh*t, some good parts, drivetrain,
mags, stereo, excellent interior, lots of cancer, good grille and chrome.
Strictly a parts car. Have it listed on the net. Spent today driving 30 m
one way to show some guy the car. SOB wanted a driver, for 100 bucks?? What
an asshole. Drove the 75, against my instincts, made it OK. Guy looked at
75. "I like that one", I said "you got 10 grand, then maybe. He said, "well
I bought an 88 Linc Cont w/133000 on it with no rust for $2000. I asked him
how many he wanted, I can go to the pool and buy 15 or 20 of those for
$1200, no one wants those sleds. This is the fifth time I have been though
this routine. It was another of Dad's cars he bought new, was trying to
keep it from going to the shredder. F*cking grille is worth a 100 bucks.
Well, I'm pissed, it's going to the shredder, tired of these idiots, sorry
dad, I tried. Where do these people come from, can they vote? If they can
we're in deep doo doo. Ad was very comprehensive, "NOT A DRIVER, parts
only, take two, make one". Sorry to vent my emotions here, wife says "take
it to shredder". Doesn't understand, had to vent to someone out there who
understands these things.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
PS Missed Rockingham to meet with a person (using the term loosely), who is
consuming our air, and whatever else he should not share in.
PPS Wanted to know if it burned oil, "Ever seen a Vega that didn't"!  GOD
works in mysterious ways, apparently.
PPPS Flames will be accepted, as long as your not him. 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 17:00:30 -0600
From: "Austin Schroeger" <austin@lsol.net>
Subject: 442 & Cutlass center console

Is the center console from a 442 and a Cutlass the same?  I need a center
console that will fit the 83/84 Hurst/Olds shifter cover proporly..  E-mail
me direct as not to fill the list with answers

Austin Schroeger
Home ICQ# 16380613
Work ICQ# 7328959
(920) 682-3277 HOME
austin@lsol.net / austin@g-body.org
http://www.g-body.org
http://members.lsol.net/austin
1984 Monte Carlo SS (406CI)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 18:22:21 EST
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: 70 Trunk Molding

Does anyone out there have the chrome trunk molding for a '70 Cutlass for
sale? Do they still produce these parts?
Thanks,
Jim McKeague

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 17:32:56 -0600
From: "Austin Schroeger" <austin@lsol.net>
Subject: Wanted to Buy

1983/1984 Hurst Olds Console cover for the Shifters.  Please e-mail me
directly with availablilit and cost

Austin Schroeger
Home ICQ# 16380613
Work ICQ# 7328959
(920) 682-3277 HOME
austin@lsol.net / austin@g-body.org
http://www.g-body.org
http://members.lsol.net/austin
1984 Monte Carlo SS (406CI)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 17:53:12 -0800
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Lou's rant

Big snip of Lou's rant.
>This is the fifth time I have been though
>this routine. It was another of Dad's cars he bought new, was trying to
>keep it from going to the shredder. F*cking grille is worth a 100 bucks.
>Well, I'm pissed, it's going to the shredder, tired of these idiots, sorry
>dad, I tried. Where do these people come from, can they vote? If they can
>we're in deep doo doo.

Hehe, and I thought I had a bad day. I only had some dweeb hit my Toro with
his door. The paint's so old and hard though he barely marked it.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 19:03:31 EST
From: Monkey2351@aol.com
Subject: Re:

CB,

If you do a 442 convertible would you sell it?

Monkey

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 19:05:48 EST
From: Monkey2351@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70 442 AND PARTS FOR SALE

In a message dated 10/28/98 9:51:00 PM EST, tjacquillard@InfoAve.Net writes:

<< Have pictures and can e-mail on request >>
E-mail me some pictures!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 16:24:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: '69 Oil Leak

I've just noticed that my '69 Cutlass 350 is leaking oil on my driveway
after a drive.  It seems to be dripping from around/between the starter and
the flywheel cover on the LHS with a secondary puddle under the middle of
flywheel cover (could be running down the cover and falling off the low
spot).  Before I get my ramps out and remove the flywheel cover has anyone
got any insight into what this could be and what is involved in fixing it?

BTW if I drive the car a long way sometimes I see smoke coming from under
the hood which looks and smells like oil leaking from the valve cover
gaskets and dripping on the exhaust manifold although I can not see any
evidence of this.  Could this be related?

I also noticed looking under the car that I have a good sized dent in the
bottom of the oilpan, are replacements available and what is involved in
installing it?   Does the engine have to be lifted to allow clearance to
remove the pan?

TIA


Lloyd Ferguson
Glendale, California
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

1969 Cutlass Convertible
1984 Buick Riviera

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 16:38:39 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: '69 Oil Leak

>BTW if I drive the car a long way sometimes I see smoke coming from under
>the hood which looks and smells like oil leaking from the valve cover
>gaskets and dripping on the exhaust manifold although I can not see any
>evidence of this.  Could this be related?

It could be a valve cover. Also check to see if the dipstick tube is leaking
and dripping onto the X-over pipe


>I also noticed looking under the car that I have a good sized dent in the
>bottom of the oilpan, are replacements available

yes they are available

>and what is involved in
>installing it?   Does the engine have to be lifted to allow clearance to
>remove the pan?
>
1: Drain the oil (don't laugh)
2: Rotate the engine so #1 is in TDC position
3: Remove the torque convertor cover
4: Remover the starter
5: Remove the mount cross bolts  and lift the engine 3"-4"
    (if you've converted to HEI, you might need to remove the 
     distributor cap for firewall clearance)
6: Remove the oil pan
     A few good 1/4" drive extentions and u-joints help removing the 
     middle pan bolts( the ones over the frame cross member)

7: Spend 4 hours swearing.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 17:54:17 -0800
From: "Tim Wurtz" <tw@micron.net>
Subject: Needing dual exhaust......

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BE05C0.A53C3A40
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I need dual exhaust manifolds for 403 olds. What cars may have come with =
true dual exhaust? Does anyone have any for sale? If you have the =
manifolds for sale e-mail me privately at usedparts@hotmail.com I live =
in Idaho and am willing to pay the shipping. Thanks Tim Wurtz.

P.S. I would like to have more than one set.

- ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BE05C0.A53C3A40
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I need dual exhaust manifolds for =
403 olds. What=20
cars may have come with true dual exhaust? Does anyone have any for =
sale? If you=20
have the manifolds for sale e-mail me privately at <A=20
href=3D"mailto:usedparts@hotmail.com">usedparts@hotmail.com</A> I live =
in Idaho=20
and am willing to pay the shipping. Thanks Tim Wurtz.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>P.S. I would like to have more than =
one=20
set.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BE05C0.A53C3A40--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 17:59:34 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: CB, 442 Cvt FS?

Monkey2351@aol.com wrote:> 
> CB, If you do a 442 convertible would you sell it?

Umm...  Is that ~me~ by chance?  Thinking there's a couple "CB"s here, but I'll
address from my end anyway.....  I'm not one that likes to sell my rigs, so I'd
probably have to answer "No" if that questions directed to me.  But ya never
know...  'Fraid it'll be a long time before I'm able to do a 442 ragtop... 
Hell, it'll take me a few years just to get my 98 cvt ~driving~ let alone
~done~...

- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 20:04:32 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: 65 thru 67 font shock absorbers

     I replaced the shocks on the 65 today, but not without the usual hassles.
The first obstacle (and the one I thought was going to be the "major") was
finding the damn things for the front. Every parts store I went to had the
rear shocks, but had no parts listing for the fronts. After some hesitation, I
went to Pep Boys and started opening boxes and comparing the originals to many
different models (mounting provisions, overall diameter, and piston stroke). I
finally found that the 68 thru 72 model was completely acceptable. Upon
talking to an ASE certfied "parts specialist", I found out the reason for the
lack of a part # for 65 thru 67 front shocks....GM had not, for some unknown
reason, ever released the specifications of the front shocks to the after-
market so they could design a shock for these three years of "A-body" cars.
OH!  THE REAL HASSLE!  It was a real pain in the "uknowwhat" cutting the
original front shocks off the car!  They were rusted solidly to the upper
shock mount.  The rears were equally as bad.  My exhaust man routed the 2 1/2
duels so close up under the rear of the car that I couldn't get a 1/2 wrench
to fit up inside the upper shock mount and the body...cutting torch and new
bolts....again!
      Why is it that the very simplest of weekend upgrades ALWAYS takes sooooo
much time on these older cars?...haha!


Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 20:21:34 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: T3 repros?

> > they are like gold...
> 
> I assume you are talking about used T-3 headlights that are still good.

If you need new ones, I read somewhere in Hemming's they are repro'ing
them.  Just a thought.  I don't like the dim little things myself.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 18:40:08 -0700
From: Steve Park <sparks@ida.net>
Subject: vintage olds parts resources

    Trying to restore a 1932 Oldsmobile straight 8 four door Patrician.
Do you have any resources that I might be able to tap to acomplish this
restoration?

Any information appreciated
Thanks
Steve

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 20:45:56 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: T3 repros?

Year One has em...I have five of them...4 on the 442 and one on the cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 19:50:09 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: '69 Oil Leak

Sounds like you might have a rear main seal leaking.  If you remove the
flywheel cover it may throw you off at first since chances are that most
everything will be wet from the flywheel/converter spinning and causing the
oil to go everywhere.  If it is all wet under the cover then chances are
thats
what your looking at.  You can replace the original rope seal with a newer
neoprene type seal and I remember seeing a pn for a F*rd seal that will work
I think it was in the FAQ.  The good news?  You have to pull the oil pan
anyway
to get the rear main cap off to replace the seal.  I think any pan from any
Olds
motor besides the Toro will fit, though I may be wrong.  The only other
thing to
add is that you'll have to disconnect the exhaust crossover to pull the pan.
Just be sure to check the rear of the engine good to make sure there isn't a
leak going down the back of the head.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net

>
>It could be a valve cover. Also check to see if the dipstick tube is
leaking
>and dripping onto the X-over pipe
>
>
>>I also noticed looking under the car that I have a good sized dent in the
>>bottom of the oilpan, are replacements available
>
>yes they are available
>
>>and what is involved in
>>installing it?   Does the engine have to be lifted to allow clearance to
>>remove the pan?
>>
>1: Drain the oil (don't laugh)
>2: Rotate the engine so #1 is in TDC position
>3: Remove the torque convertor cover
>4: Remover the starter
>5: Remove the mount cross bolts  and lift the engine 3"-4"
>    (if you've converted to HEI, you might need to remove the
>     distributor cap for firewall clearance)
>6: Remove the oil pan
>     A few good 1/4" drive extentions and u-joints help removing the
>     middle pan bolts( the ones over the frame cross member)
>
>7: Spend 4 hours swearing.
>
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 19:54:29 -0600
From: "Ron Hengerer" <rhengerer@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Conversion.

I got the conversion done thursday morning for $162, they not only did a
great job but my 74 Cutless is the sweetest sounding car I've heard in a
long time.
Thanks Ron
- -----Original Message-----
From: SHELTERMEN@aol.com <SHELTERMEN@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, October 26, 1998 8:38 PM
Subject: Re: Exhaust Conversion.


>Have you read the previous posts regarding flowmaster et.al.?  Where is
this
>muffler shop?  I wish someone in my area would install duals for that
price.
>Good deal!!!
>Tim
>'68 Delmont
>'76 Cutlass Street Stock

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 21:04:40 EST
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70 Trunk Molding

i have trunk mldg for a 71 convert  would that work???


- -  jeff     770  723-9345

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 18:08:23 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: 65 thru 67 font shock absorbers

GT5726@aol.com wrote:
> 
>      I replaced the shocks on the 65 today, but not without the usual 
hassles.
> The first obstacle (and the one I thought was going to be the "major") was
> finding the damn things for the front. Every parts store I went to had the
> rear shocks, but had no parts listing for the fronts. After some hesitation, 
I
> went to Pep Boys and started opening boxes and comparing the originals to 
many
> different models (mounting provisions, overall diameter, and piston stroke). 
I
> finally found that the 68 thru 72 model was completely acceptable. Upon
> talking to an ASE certfied "parts specialist", I found out the reason for the
> lack of a part # for 65 thru 67 front shocks....GM had not, for some unknown
> reason, ever released the specifications of the front shocks to the after-
> market so they could design a shock for these three years of "A-body" cars.
> Collyn Eastham
> 65 442
> 65 Cutlass



Collyn,

Although the 68 and up shocks will "fit" your 65, 
the problem is the 68 and up shocks have a shorter
extended length.  This will only present a problem
should you decide to do some off road style driving
ala "Dukes of Hazzard".  Which of course I doubt 
you will, but keep in mind when the front of the
car is on a lift or on jack stands, the shorter
travel of the shocks will mean they are holding 
the weight of the tire, suspension, brakes, etc.  
Rather than allowing the full travel of the suspension. 
This could cause a major failure of the shocks since
they are not designed to carry a load in this manor. 

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 21:22:15 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: T3 repros?

GT5726@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Year One has em...I have five of them...4 on the 442 and one on the cutlass

What are the good used ones worth?  I've seen several of them in the
yards the last few weeks.  Kind of have to vote with Mike Rothe though,
I like a little more light in front of me.  Must be the old people thing
again.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 20:22:34 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 70 Trunk Molding

If I remember right from my 72 S that the mldg is different between
the HT's and the Supreme/convert but I know a junkyard that has 
2 70 HT's in it.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net

>i have trunk mldg for a 71 convert  would that work???
>
>
>-  jeff     770  723-9345
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 20:40:04 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 65 thru 67 font shock absorbers

but keep in mind when the front of the
>car is on a lift or on jack stands, the shorter
>travel of the shocks will mean they are holding 
>the weight of the tire, suspension, brakes, etc.  
>Rather than allowing the full travel of the suspension. 
>This could cause a major failure of the shocks since
>they are not designed to carry a load in this manor. 
>
> 
>Greg Rollin


Personally, I wouldn't worry about this, since I have seen a lot of 
cars that have this situation and never have a problem with it.  It
is actually fairly common to see the shock holding the suspension
from acheiving full droop due to lack of shock extension.  Whether
this is from OEM spec or aftermarket need to have one product 
that covers many different applications I don't know.  As far as the 
load from jacking the car up I have never seen a shock fail due to 
this but the jarring effect on the shock would be much greater from
a rapid extension of the suspension in, say, a wheelstand or a 
jump.  At that point shock failure would be the least of your worries.
If it does worry you, though you can utilize an old drag racers trick
which is to use straps connected between the frame and the lower
control arm to limit suspension extention.  Just a thought.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 22:09:50 -0500
From: dclover@epix.net
Subject: Re: 70 Trunk Molding

Are we talking about the edge near the bumper?   I don't think it's
chrome...At least on my '70 Supreme Convert it's stainless steel, 3
pieces on the lid, plus one more each for the cast fender ends.

Dan J
'70 Cutlass Convert

DROLDS350@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Does anyone out there have the chrome trunk molding for a '70 Cutlass
> for
> sale? Do they still produce these parts?
> Thanks,
> Jim McKeague

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 21:12:59 -0600
From: Shang <shang@connect.net>
Subject: 70 Supreme window weatherstrip

Does anyone make the window weather strip that works with wide mouldings
that came on the supreme hardtops?


Thanks

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 21:17:03 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Olds EFI + Headers

I have read a couple of postings in the last few days that have mentioned EFI
on an Olds big block. I never knew you could get EFI on an Olds BB could
someone fill me in?

Also i'm trying to find a set of 2" headers for my '67 Cutlass convertible. As
soon as I  mention the "C" (convertible) word to the header companies they act
like i'm trying to feed them poison. Something about the engine cradle being
deeper or something. I also have a '67 Cutlass Supreme drag car, and I can't
see a difference in the engine cradles. ANY HELP?

Thanks

p.s. I took the convert. to the track three weeks ago and ran a 12.92 at 99 mph
on slicks w/3.90 rear gears, not bad for a street car. One problem, my buddy
ran 12.17 at 108 in his 55 Ch#$y 454 streeter. Gotta be ready to beat him by
next spring.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 22:22:49 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: T3 repros?

I've got T3s in most of my old cars, but when my son started driving, I took
the T3s out of his '70 98 and replaced them with halogens so he could
actually see.  A desirable trait in a headlight.  The T3s, a matched set of
original bulbs are boxes up, awaiting the day when they must heed the call
of the seven tanna leaves.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 22:25:38 EST
From: Joeytada@aol.com
Subject: 75 H/O stickers.

Where can I get the W30 stickers for my 75 H/O? 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 22:25:01 EST
From: Joeytada@aol.com
Subject: '75 H/O  duel exhaust

I'm going to be putting dual exhaust on my H/O soon and need to know what
muffler to get.  I'm going for flowmasters but what offsets should I get?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 22:29:43 EST
From: Joeytada@aol.com
Subject: Holley Projection

Does anyone have any experence with Holley's projection systems?  I'm getting
tired of messing with the carb on my 75 H/O.
Keith

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 22:33:26 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Olds EFI + Headers

The only EFI that I know of (big limits there) for Big Block Olds are
aftermarket, i.e., Holley's EFI system. This is a throttle body and
injectors that replace the carb. Someone will definitely correct me if I'm
wrong.
I believe Hooker is making the headers with the largest primary tubes
available. They a 1-7/8" and they are $$$$$$.
I always heard that the convertible problem was the thickness of the frame
on convertibles. Supposedly it is much larger to compensate for the loss of
body stiffness that a hard roof produces. The headers on my (hard top) car
are very close to the frame. As I look at it, I can see that widening the
frame rails, even slightly, would cause interference problems.

- -----Original Message-----

>
>I have read a couple of postings in the last few days that have mentioned
EFI
>on an Olds big block. I never knew you could get EFI on an Olds BB could
>someone fill me in?
>
>Also i'm trying to find a set of 2" headers for my '67 Cutlass convertible.
As
>soon as I  mention the "C" (convertible) word to the header companies they
act
>like i'm trying to feed them poison. Something about the engine cradle
being
>deeper or something. I also have a '67 Cutlass Supreme drag car, and I
can't
>see a difference in the engine cradles. ANY HELP?
>
>Thanks
>
>p.s. I took the convert. to the track three weeks ago and ran a 12.92 at 99
mph
>on slicks w/3.90 rear gears, not bad for a street car. One problem, my
buddy
>ran 12.17 at 108 in his 55 Ch#$y 454 streeter. Gotta be ready to beat him
by
>next spring.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 21:49:05 -0600
From: "Austin Schroeger" <austin@lsol.net>
Subject: Re: Holley Projection

The is a guy here in town how has it on his Jeep.  He has since replaced it
with the Edelbrock Multi-Port EFI.  From what i gathered, the preformance he
expected wasn't there, and he messed with it more than is Carb.  But this is
just once instance,...  Maybe you'd have better luck

Austin Schroeger
Home ICQ# 16380613
Work ICQ# 7328959
(920) 682-3277 HOME
austin@lsol.net / austin@g-body.org
http://www.g-body.org
http://members.lsol.net/austin
1984 Monte Carlo SS (406CI)


>Does anyone have any experence with Holley's projection systems?  I'm
getting
>tired of messing with the carb on my 75 H/O.
>Keith

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 20:57:54 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: price of a G-body

Hey list, got a question for the general G-body public. SOMEDAY down the
road I plan on purchasing a G-body cutlass/442. I would eventually drop
in a built 350 utilizing the th-200-4R and a steeper rearend. I want the
power and the cruisability along with economy. What is the running price
on a decent G-body with little/no rust or dents. Decent interior just
average day wear and tear (hopefully no tears...)? Just my mind is
always dreaming of this car and I want to know how much and how long I
have to save cause I'm getting married next year and she already knows
I'm planning on it.

NON-OLDS, I own a 85 F**D escort. piece of crap car (called the Sh*t Box
Racer) and once I get it running it will be my transportation while I
rebuild my front end with PST polygraphite bushings. Anybody thought,
done, or attempted a motor change in these? Maybe an old v-6 of a very
tiny v-8 would fit... Only problem is that the engine is sideways...
With as small and as light as that car is if you could put a turboed v-8
in there, that thing would take off and fly like a learjet! Just another
dream my Olds mind goes through often.

Ben
Still got my C heads for sale and my 62 F-85. NEED TO SEEL to pay off
bills!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 22:13:47 -0600
From: Gregory Howze <"ghowze@primary.net"@primary.net>
Subject: [Fwd: 71 cut conv advice needed]

Message-ID: <md5:AE3FC3639327E5097260C466B9FE9BD0>
Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 14:15:13 -0600
From: Gregory Howze <"ghowze@primary.net"@primary.net>
Reply-To: "ghowze@primary.net"@primary.net
Organization: GMAC
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01C-KIT  (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 71 cut conv advice needed
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

My 71' 350 2 barr. in my cut needs to be rebuilt but I don't have the
money to do it.  A guy said he would sell me a 85 350 4-barr with 32,000
miles and install it minus the air pollution for $850.  I planned to
enjoy my drop top and rebuild the original engine this summer when i can
work more hours.  Is the 85 350 worth it?  Will it fit?  Any advice is
welcomed

Scott

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 23:22:22 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Post / Non-Post Differences

Got a question for you list gurus,

After surviving the final autocross event of our season here in Kansas City
(we got to play in the rain, I was so wet that I actually came home and
changed after working on the course for the first heat and ran the second) I
realized that the C Prepared 72 Cutlass 442 project needed a couple of things:

1) Windshield wipers
2) Blower for defogging
3) Side windows

Now, here comes the question -- could a person refit a non-post car with post
(framed) doors?  They would be severely lightened and the glass replaced with
removable Lexan windows.  Since SCCA Solo II events go on rain or shine, this
change would keep us competing, along with a set of rain tires.

By the way, my wife and I ran the rotary ride (her car) today, and she beat
me!  I think it was a timer glitch, but I'll let it go since she was the only
driver in her class and I was the only one in mine today.  And for the season,
she's the "C" Street Prepared Ladies champion and I took the "C" Street
Prepared Open trophy.  Not bad for her first season!

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
ks7racing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 20:30:07 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Post / Non-Post Differences

KS7RACING@aol.com wrote:
<snip>-- could a person refit a non-post car with post
(framed) doors?  They would be severely lightened and the glass
replaced with removable Lexan windows.  Since SCCA Solo II events go
on rain or shine, this
change would keep us competing, along with a set of rain tires.

**********
>They would fit. You have to remove the weatherstrip from the w/s
pillar and roof rail though. You would also have to address the lack
of a window 'frame' for the rear 1/4 windows. Maybe you could chop the
frames out of the donor car, or fabricate something to hold the rear
1/4 windows. I have seen a 66 Cutlass non post car made into a post
version and you could do the same on the 72. 





==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our cars, trucks and a whole lot more at
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 23:32:40 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Re: Olds EFI + Headers

Here we go again.......

                I went through 5 sets of headers from El Cheapo brand
to the Super-price variety - not one set would fit in my 67' CS
drop top with 455 - they all hit the steering column big
time. I now run WZ manifolds with stock 2-1/4 pipes and S/S 
mufflers......


Just my experience
The General

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 23:45:18 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: wheels

I need to know if alloy wheels from a late model FWD Cutlass will fit on
my 75 Delta 88.

TIA

Mark Hahn
75 Delta 88 Royale Convertible
Cincinnati Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 22:53:14 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Holley Projection

Keith,
Ran it about 5 yrs ago in my street/strip 72 Cutlass.  Ran great around town
and
really smoothed out the idle on my radical cam.  Only thing was it melted
the
engine (holes in pistons!) TWICE by leaning out at high rpm.  This was the
older
analog open loop system but now they have the digital closed loop system but
this time I don't think I'll try to be the first one on my block to have it.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net

>Does anyone have any experence with Holley's projection systems?  I'm
getting
>tired of messing with the carb on my 75 H/O.
>Keith
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 23:02:53 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Post / Non-Post Differences

>Now, here comes the question -- could a person refit a non-post car with
post
>(framed) doors?  They would be severely lightened and the glass replaced
with
>removable Lexan windows
>
Take a look at the drag racing guys.  In Pro Street and several
doorslammer classes they run lexan side windows (though not
removable) on non post cars.  Basically what they do is to fab
a small wire frame to run along the top of the window and pop
rivet it to the lexan.  Then they attach this wire to the door to
provide support for the window.  With a little ingenuity you could
fab this up yourself and make it removable, keep your doors,
save you money, be lighter than post doors, and just plain be
trick as hell.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 00:24:24 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Racing Experience this past weekend

Hello to all and one.  Well November 1st was the last day the Milan Dragway in
Milan Michigan was open.  So I thought for kicks, just one last time to the
track.  I made my first time trial and ran a 12.40 @ 108 mph.  My mph was down
and my time off.  As I returned to the pits, I heard a whinning sound, but it
sounded like my tires.   Well time trial number two..   Got to the burn out
box and did a good tire heating, smoke billowing burnout.   Then to the
starting line.  light goes green, I stomp and heard   rrraaaaahhhhhh
Clank!!!    Yep, tore the posi carrier in half.  I just shreaded it.   I bro-
in-law did run 12.17's with his car with no problems.

Now the big question,  Does anybody have a posi carrier from 71-87
olds,pont,buick or chev corporate 10 bolt for sale.  I don't car what gear is
on it, but I do need a posi.  Nothing outrageous please,  I could buy a new
one for 337.00.   

Thanks,  Racer in need
W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30   broke  :(

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 00:00:08 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: '69 Oil Leak

Ok, someone said this...

>5: Remove the mount cross bolts  and lift the engine 3"-4"
>    (if you've converted to HEI, you might need to remove the 
>     distributor cap for firewall clearance)
>6: Remove the oil pan
>     A few good 1/4" drive extentions and u-joints help removing the 
>     middle pan bolts( the ones over the frame cross member)
>
>7: Spend 4 hours swearing.
> 

...and I REALIZE that you're talking about a 1969 350, OK, but when I
removed the pan on my '84 307 I HAD to take the motor mounts completely off
the block, because they blocked the path of the ratchet to the oil pan
bolts in the middle of the pan.  There just wasn't enough clearance between
the mount and the block to allow the diameter of even a 1/4" drive to get
through.

On the 307 there are three bolts on each mount - two that go through the
mount into the block (motor bolts) and one that attaches the mount to the
crossmember (cross bolt?).  Is it the same setup on 350s?  IF it is, and IF
we're talking the same terms about "cross bolts" being what holds the mount
to the frame, then I am REALLY interested in finding out how you got the
middle pan bolts off with the mount still attached to the block.

You're completely right about the 4 hours swearing, though.  What I found
interesting is that while it does go A LOT quicker the second time around
(when you're an chump, like myself, and screw up the gasket the first time)
- - it is still almost no fun at all.

No fun at all PERIOD, really.
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 00:05:24 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: 

They're not THAT rare really, right?  I mean, 1969 442 Convertibles are the
ONLY thing I look for in the papers, online, etc. (so I can kick myself
every time I find one and I STILL don't have enough cash) and yes, while
the market's not exactly flooded with them, you can usually find more than
one for sale in any given month.

At 11:42 PM 10/29/98 , you wrote:
>You don't want much do you?  It is hard enough to find a 442, much less 
>a convertible 442!!!
>
>>
>>Hey list,
>>I am just know starting interest into rebuilding old muscle cars, and
>>would like to start off with a 70 convert. olds 442.  Anyone know
>>where I can start looking to find one?  I would prefer one that still
>>runs but not necessary.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>cb, south ga

- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 00:04:21 -0600
From: Shang <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: Post / Non-Post Differences

Has anyone bought a W-25 replica hood from US Body Source? I am
wondering how difficult it is to "modify" for the from moldings.

Thanks

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 00:07:47 -0600
From: Shang <shang@connect.net>
Subject: W-25 Hood Replicas

Sorry for the repost, forgot to edit the subject..

Has anyone bought a W-25 replica hood from US Body Source? I am
wondering how difficult it is to "modify" for the from moldings.

Thanks

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 01:24:15 -0500
From: "John H. Edmonds III" <edmonds@UU.NET>
Subject: Pleasant experience with a part vendor

- --------------44D4BD0EB6C5401DE61B7F45
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hey all,

    I just wanted to mention that USA Parts Supply in Manassas, VA
treated me very well on my last order. About four weeks ago, I contacted
them about purchasing a replacement fuel tank for my 67 Cutlass Supreme
Convertible. The fuel tanks are not kept in stock, but are ordered on an
as needed basis, and they said they would contact me when it came in. I
told them not to ship it to me (their usual procedure) since I live only
15 miles from their location, and I would just come pick it up when it
arrived. I had not heard anything from them, so last week I called to
see if they had any news. They did not, saying they would call the
distributor to see what the deal was. Three days later, the fuel tank
was sitting on my doorstep, with the UPS charges picked up by USA Parts!
I thought that was mighty nice of them...

- --
============================================================================
John H. Edmonds III
Network Operations Engineer
UUNET WorldCom
(703) 206-5485

Eat, drink and be merry, then sleep it off.
============================================================================



- --------------44D4BD0EB6C5401DE61B7F45
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML>
Hey all,

<P>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I just wanted to mention that USA Parts Supply in
Manassas, VA treated me very well on my last order. About four weeks ago,
I contacted them about purchasing a replacement fuel tank for my 67 Cutlass
Supreme Convertible. The fuel tanks are not kept in stock, but are ordered
on an as needed basis, and they said they would contact me when it came
in. I told them not to ship it to me (their usual procedure) since I live
only 15 miles from their location, and I would just come pick it up when
it arrived. I had not heard anything from them, so last week I called to
see if they had any news. They did not, saying they would call the distributor
to see what the deal was. Three days later, the fuel tank was sitting on
my doorstep, with the UPS charges picked up by USA Parts! I thought that
was mighty nice of them...&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<PRE>--&nbsp;
============================================================================
John H. Edmonds III
Network Operations Engineer
UUNET WorldCom
(703) 206-5485


Eat, drink and be merry, then sleep it off.
============================================================================</P
RE>
&nbsp;</HTML>

- --------------44D4BD0EB6C5401DE61B7F45--

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1582
*********************************

