Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
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cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1570


oldsmobile-digest      Sunday, October 25 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1570



Re: Do you have an answer to this question?
Re: WTB G-BODY DOORS.
Block thick or thin?
Re: Heating/AC revisited
Re: Block thick or thin?
Re: Best body filler choices
shifter cable clips
Re: Best body filler choices
Date:	Sat, 24 Oct 1998 22:39:54 -0400
Re: Heating/AC revisited
Darkness problem
Re: shifter cable clips
Re: Darkness problem
Re: Darkness problem
Re: Darkness problem
Re: Darkness problem
Re: Darkness problem
Email advertising in JWO
Re: Can I make a 455 out of a G block 400?
RE: Email advertising in JWO
Re:  Re: WTB G-BODY DOORS.
Re: Best body filler choices
Re: Best body filler choices
Radio Antenna Disconnect
1984 Hurst F/S
HI!
Hot Rod Power Tour  (70 442 wagon)
RE: Hot Rod Power Tour  (70 442 wagon)
[none]
Re: Radio Antenna Disconnect
Re: Radio Antenna Disconnect
Jetaway question
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1569
Re: HI!
Re: shifter cable clips
Re: Hot Rod Power Tour (70 442 wagon)
overdrive trans
Re: Email advertising in JWO  answered
Re: Radio Antenna Disconnect
Re: Darkness problem
Fuel tank vents
HELP!
Re: Best body filler choices
parts
Re: Fuel tank vents
Re: Fuel tank vents
Re: Fuel tank vents
Re: Fuel tank vents
Re: Radio Antenna Disconnect
UNBOUNCE: Convert Rear Curtain Replacement
RE: HI!
Re: Best body filler choices
Engine noise Diagnosis help needed!
Races
Re: Races
Re: Fuel tank vents
Re: Hot Rod Power Tour  (70 442 wagon)
Re: Fuel tank vents
RE: HI!
2 new Olds in corral
Mondello catalog
Prep for engine storage?
Muffler Question
Re:  overdrive trans
Re: Jetaway question
Re: Mondello catalog
Parts 4 Sale
I need a few parts before it gets any colder
Re: Block thick or thin?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 21:01:25 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Do you have an answer to this question?

> I saw an '85 Calais with a black interior one time... I couldn't get close
> enough to see details though.

The Calais was that FWD thing in 85?  A mini-cutlass.  I have looked
over the options on the 81-88 RWD cutlass, and can find NO code for a
black interior.  Don't know about those mini-cutlass interiors.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 21:07:51 EDT
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: WTB G-BODY DOORS.

John, do you still need a drivers door? Can get you a great southern door for
around 100-150 +shipping let me know thanks Chris

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 21:13:54 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Block thick or thin?

> As a whole Olds motors have thicker walls and
> the occurence of major amounts of core shift is not common.

Blocks aren't always as thick as you think.  For instance, I can lift a
455 bare block and set it in the back of the truck to take to the
machine shop.  The 455 is pretty thin.  Albeit a bit bulky.  However,
when I went to lift that 454 block...I needed help.  Compared big inch
to big inch, there is DEFINITELY more meat in a Chevy BB vs a large
Olds.  Smaller cube engines, I'm not sure, but there may be a difference
there.

Core shift isn't common in ANY Olds V-8 engine according to the master
machinist where I get my work done.  So align boring and cylinder boring
compensation isn't as common to do to an Olds engine, which is a
heavenly $$ savings, but you make up for that on other parts.  The guy
even said that Olds engines as a whole usually are the best of all of
the makes in staying "straight", talking about decking and head
milling.  But he always recommends a truing just to play it safe.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 21:22:31 -0400
From: "Chris Brown" <Elric@dclink.com>
Subject: Re: Heating/AC revisited

Thanks Greg, I checked that, the hoses are conected behind the kick plate.
I will check tomorrow, to see if they are in good shape.

Chris Brown
72 Cutlass Supreme

>
>Chris,
>On the control panel where the vacuum hose from the
>underhood tank is connected only uses two of the
>three ports.  At first glance it would appear that
>the center post requires a hose.  Although if you
>look close it is actually a solid post that nothing
>connects to.  Where I would look next would be the
>diaphragms that are located behind the passenger
>side kick panel.  If these are not connected
>or if the hoses are pinched, have holes, etc. the
>vents will not work.
>
>
>Greg Rollin
>Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
>503-244-8249
>http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
>E-mail: supercars@transport.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 20:30:59 -0500
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Block thick or thin?

As a whole they are thick but the thickness of blocks tended
to diminish the later the year.  Witness the 403's with windowed
main webs!?!

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Rothe. <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, October 24, 1998 8:16 PM
Subject: Block thick or thin?


>> As a whole Olds motors have thicker walls and
>> the occurence of major amounts of core shift is not common.
>
>Blocks aren't always as thick as you think.  For instance, I can lift a
>455 bare block and set it in the back of the truck to take to the
>machine shop.  The 455 is pretty thin.  Albeit a bit bulky.  However,
>when I went to lift that 454 block...I needed help.  Compared big inch
>to big inch, there is DEFINITELY more meat in a Chevy BB vs a large
>Olds.  Smaller cube engines, I'm not sure, but there may be a difference
>there.
>
>Core shift isn't common in ANY Olds V-8 engine according to the master
>machinist where I get my work done.  So align boring and cylinder boring
>compensation isn't as common to do to an Olds engine, which is a
>heavenly $$ savings, but you make up for that on other parts.  The guy
>even said that Olds engines as a whole usually are the best of all of
>the makes in staying "straight", talking about decking and head
>milling.  But he always recommends a truing just to play it safe.
>
>Mike Rothe
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 21:11:06 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Best body filler choices

Clayton,
Lead is the final solution, and the best. Water cannot get in as in Bondo
or other compounds. Try to find someone who can do it,  that is the
problem. Braze it and then lead. Great Stuff!  Will never fall out or rust.
I spent four years learning how to, and I'm OK, but not great. NO CANCER.
thats BS. Unless you eat it!  If you could find someone, they would have to
be older than me, 49. But you must have talent. Can't just smear it around.
Hard to work with. No one I know anymore, labor costs are too high.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
- ----------
> From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Best body filler choices
> Date: Saturday, October 24, 1998 7:58 PM
>
>
> On Sat, 24 Oct 1998, Dave Cullen wrote:
>
> > >Does anyone have a
> > >recommendation on the best body filler to use for smoothing out the
> > >rough areas within the weld? The guy at the body shop mentioned a
> > >waterproof green body filler.
> >
> > Bondo still seems to be the goop of choice for that. As long as it's
not
> > exposed to weather (gotta be enclosed within the repair).
>
> There's lead... but it's hard to find anybody that does lead work
> anymore... must be dangerous and cause cancer or something like that.  A
> buddie's former girlfriend has a '56 S88 that has all lead bodywork on
it.
> Hasn't cracked, rusted, or damaged the paint in over 20 years since her
> father did it now.
>
>
>     |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
>    /|\       Clayton Pierce,
>   / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
>  |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
>  |  |  |
>  |  |  |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
>  | / \ |
>  |/   \|     1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
>   \   /         (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
>    \ /          http://www.442.com/pierce.html
>     |        1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass Brougham
> 		(parts car) (307, 4bbl, TH350, 2.14:1, 90k miles)
> 	     1980 Rover 3500 SD1
> 	        (215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
> 		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/othercars.html
>      	     1979 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
> 		(260 V8, 2bbl, TH350)
> 		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/79cutlass.html
> 	     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
> 		(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"
> 		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/bonneville.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 22:18:33 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: shifter cable clips

List,
            OK folks - replaced my shifter cable in my 67 - the tranny end
was held on
by wire (the previous owner/mechanic was a real hack) - I want to do it
right so
I go in search of the proper clip - I go out to my 4 speed parts car -
.......


10 points to the person who comes up with the right answer - what did I use
to fasten the cable.....???????


The General

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 22:44:34 -0400
From: "Frederick S. Nissen" <FSNissen@Worldnet.ATT.NET>
Subject: Re: Best body filler choices

Lou Biggs wrote:

> Lead is the final solution, and the best. Water cannot get in as in Bondo
> or other compounds. Try to find someone who can do it,  that is the
> problem. Braze it and then lead. Great Stuff!  Will never fall out or rust.


I know an old body man (started as an apprentice in an Olds Dealer in
the early '50s).  Though semi retired, he still swears by lead.  One
thing he has mentioned is that it worked a lot better on the '50s cars
than the later models.  A combination of the rounded lines and heavier
gauge sheet metal.  Easy to warp panels on the newer cars.  (Lead
requires heat to apply.)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 22:39:54 -0400
From: "Steve C" <cutlass@citlink.net>
Subject: Date:	Sat, 24 Oct 1998 22:39:54 -0400

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 22:47:13 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Re: Heating/AC revisited

Chris,

I scanned the vacuum diagram from my manual and sent it to you privately.
Just letting you know here in case your server balks at putting it through.


If for some reason you do have problems with receiving it e-mail me
privately and we can figure it out.

jp

Jonathan Parke
mailto:jonparke@together.net

'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
(near the end of a 5 year frame off customization)

'60 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider Veloce
(completely in pieces, perfect body, long term restoration)



>Well,
>I found the vaccuum line and replaced it, it was melted.
>The line is hooked into the control, but there is another vaccuum connection
>that doesnt have a line to it, I looked at all the lines and connections,
>and there doesnt seem to be any not connected, but my vents still do not
>work, the only lever tyhat has a cable is the temperature lever, and that
>works.....I split the line with a T connector, and it still doesnt work.
>Any advice?? I am getting a manual sometime next weekend (payday).  but its
>getting colder here, and Id like to get this fixed before hand.  I think I
>may end up taking it to an Olds dealer to have them check, but I dont want
>to spend that much money.
>Thanks,
>Chris Brown
>72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 23:12:35 EDT
From: Cutw29@aol.com
Subject: Darkness problem

After getting my 72 cutlass painted recently I'm in the dark.  My dome light
and the lights by the kick panels don't work.  The fuses are all GOOD!
Anybody have any ideas?

Thanks
Steve O.
Cutw29@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 20:05:18 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: shifter cable clips

Patton wrote:
>
> List,
>             OK folks - replaced my shifter cable in my 67 - the tranny end
> was held on
> by wire (the previous owner/mechanic was a real hack) - I want to do it
> right so
> I go in search of the proper clip - I go out to my 4 speed parts car -
> .......
>
> 10 points to the person who comes up with the right answer - what did I use
> to fasten the cable.....???????
>
> The General



If you are talking about the clip
that attaches the cable to the bracket
on the trans pan,
I'd have gone for a brake hose clip.
(Located on the fronts at the bracket
where the hose connects to the steel
line and at the rear where the hose
passes through the frame).
Since these are the same clip as the
AT shifter cable, that would be where
I would pirate them from.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 23:17:25 EDT
From: Cutw29@aol.com
Subject: Re: Darkness problem

By the way, the bulbs are good!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 23:17:54 EDT
From: RAC5419@aol.com
Subject: Re: Darkness problem

Just  a WAG. did any paint get in the switch holding it in all the time as if
the door is closed?

Dick Compton
72 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 20:20:16 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Darkness problem

At 11:12 PM 10/24/98 -0400, you wrote:
>After getting my 72 cutlass painted recently I'm in the dark.  My dome light
>and the lights by the kick panels don't work.  The fuses are all GOOD!
>Anybody have any ideas?
>

My first guess would be that paint  got into the door jamb switches,
so they wount make contact.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 23:18:46 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Darkness problem

>After getting my 72 cutlass painted recently I'm in the dark.  My dome
light
>and the lights by the kick panels don't work.  The fuses are all GOOD!
>Anybody have any ideas?


Did they paint the door jambs?
If so, the paint may prevent the switches from grounding.  Courtesy light
circuits are hot all the time.  The door jamb switches ground the circuit to
turn the light on.  (Had this problem with my '79 98.)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 21:27:39 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Darkness problem

Do you have a good ground connection from your frame and block to the
body?  Had electrical problems arter doing a frame off on my car and it
turned out to be a forgotten cable from the back of the rocker covers to
the body.

	Just an idea.

Cutw29@aol.com wrote:
>
> After getting my 72 cutlass painted recently I'm in the dark.  My dome light
> and the lights by the kick panels don't work.  The fuses are all GOOD!
> Anybody have any ideas?
>
> Thanks
> Steve O.
> Cutw29@aol.com

- --

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.23 (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 23:42:47 EDT
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Email advertising in JWO

Anybody know how to send an ad into the JWO via Email? There's no address in
the issues I've been able to find, but I seem to recall that there is an
avenue to do this...
Peter

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 21:45:43 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Can I make a 455 out of a G block 400?

I think Mike has a good point about pushing beyond the factory
recommendations but Greg is right, there's no way to bore that much
over.  I found what I had read in a printed copy of the FAQ (why don't
they make it black writing so it prints well) and what they said was
that a F2-F3 F block may be bored to 4.25 without sonic testing.

I missed that it was a F block and found the F2 on my G block and
thought I had an idea.  But like I mentioned, I do have a good 455 F3
engine with C heads so I just have to bite the bullet and spend the cash
to bore and put new pistons in.

Thanks for all the input.

mbloomer wrote:
>
> As I said I don't have the spec's or any experience with 400's but
> what I do know is that with a Olds block the conventional wisdom
> of how much meat you have to leave in the cyl walls (this "wisdom"
> being from the Chevy guys) for them to hold up is sort of out the
> window.  <big snip>
>

- --

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.23 (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 23:31:32 -0500
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: RE: Email advertising in JWO

Peter wrote:

	
	Anybody know how to send an ad into the JWO via Email? There's
no address in the issues I've been able to find, but I seem to recall
that there is an avenue to do this...

	Peter, write to Clay at jwo@primary.net

	Hope this helps,

	Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
	Columbus, MS          1987 442

	http://www.442.com/newman.html
	http://www.442.com/newmantape.html


	

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 00:22:34 EDT
From: JJP442@aol.com
Subject: Re:  Re: WTB G-BODY DOORS.

Chris,
What do you think the shipping for that would cost? Any idea?
Thanks,
John-Queens N.Y.
JJP442@aol.com
1983 H/O
1987 442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 00:49:37 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Best body filler choices

Lou Biggs wrote:
>
> Clayton,
> Lead is the final solution, and the best. Water cannot get in as in Bondo
> or other compounds. Try to find someone who can do it,  that is the
> problem. Braze it and then lead. Great Stuff!  Will never fall out or rust.
> I spent four years learning how to, and I'm OK, but not great. NO CANCER.
> thats BS. Unless you eat it!  If you could find someone, they would have to
> be older than me, 49. But you must have talent. Can't just smear it around.
> Hard to work with. No one I know anymore, labor costs are too high.
> Lou Biggs
> lbiggs@intertek.net
> ----------
> > From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: Best body filler choices
> > Date: Saturday, October 24, 1998 7:58 PM
> >
> >
> > On Sat, 24 Oct 1998, Dave Cullen wrote:
> >
> > > >Does anyone have a
> > > >recommendation on the best body filler to use for smoothing out the
> > > >rough areas within the weld? The guy at the body shop mentioned a
> > > >waterproof green body filler.
> > >
> > > Bondo still seems to be the goop of choice for that. As long as it's
> not
> > > exposed to weather (gotta be enclosed within the repair).
> >
> > There's lead... but it's hard to find anybody that does lead work
> > anymore... must be dangerous and cause cancer or something like that.  A
> > buddie's former girlfriend has a '56 S88 that has all lead bodywork on
> it.
> > Hasn't cracked, rusted, or damaged the paint in over 20 years since her
> > father did it now.

I was discussing the repair of my toys with the current body man of
choice a couple weeks ago when he came up in this area.  I told him that
WHEN we get started on the cars in the rust repair department I wanted
them metalled (rust cut out, metal patches put in) and then I thought
leading would be the best to use to fill in the rest.  He said there was
a new filler out that contained metal that good for long term fixes.  I
hadn't heard of this particular product, so I didn't know how to
respond.  I still think lead is the way to go if you don't want to do it
again in a few years, but I would like to find out more about this
product.  It is also possible that I misunderstood him, but Idon't think
so.  Of course it would not be the first time I have been told I'm
crazy.  :)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 00:53:19 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Best body filler choices

Lou Biggs wrote:

> Lead is the final solution, and the best. Water cannot get in as in Bondo
> or other compounds. Try to find someone who can do it,  that is the
> problem. Braze it and then lead. Great Stuff!  Will never fall out or rust.

> be older than me, 49. But you must have talent. Can't just smear it around.
> Hard to work with. No one I know anymore, labor costs are too high.

I, too, remember that good lead work is an artform.  I can remember my
dad using it on some cars 20-30 years ago.  The stuff stinks and smokes
a lot, but it does make a nice product.  You've got to have a lot of
patience and a lot experience to be more than just decent using lead.  A
bit of a lost art any more.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 00:04:32 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Radio Antenna Disconnect

On a 72 Olds Cutlass, how do you disconnect the antenna wire from the
radio? I have the AM/FM stereo radio and can't figure out how to get this
wire off the radio.....

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 01:33:17 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: 1984 Hurst F/S

Local newspaper had the following in the classifieds:

1984 Hurst/Olds limited Edition, T-tops,lightning rods, rear spoiler,
engine and transmission rebuilt, all mechanics new.  $2,200 or best
offer.  502 570-0144 days

This car is located somewhere in the western half of Ky.  Usual
disclaimers apply.  Just thought someone might be interested.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 02:22:36 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: HI!

Hey list!  I broke down and bought a real computer and a real isp, and I now
have a website.  So, if you see stuff from this address, it's the same
person as used to be rocket409@juno.com.  Now, do I have to turn off html or
something?  Using Microsoft Outlook

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County PA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 03:04:31 EST
From: Joeytada@aol.com
Subject: Hot Rod Power Tour  (70 442 wagon)

Well i went to the power tour today and guess what I saw?  An orange W30 442
Wagon.  That's right a wagon, it has the red fenderwells and all. The guy said
that it's  only one of two made.  I took pictures and they will be on my web
site soon.
Does anyone know anything about this ultra-rare car?

Keith

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 03:47:43 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Hot Rod Power Tour  (70 442 wagon)

Yes Keith, I do remember hearing of such a thing.  I read about it in
Hemmings a few years ago if I remember right.  I heard the same thing, that
there are only two. I saw a picture, pretty cool wagon!  Not as cool as the
Hearst Olds I'll build some day though!
Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Joeytada@aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, October 25, 1998 3:05 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Hot Rod Power Tour (70 442 wagon)
>
>
> Well i went to the power tour today and guess what I saw?  An
> orange W30 442
> Wagon.  That's right a wagon, it has the red fenderwells and all.
> The guy said
> that it's  only one of two made.  I took pictures and they will
> be on my web
> site soon.
> Does anyone know anything about this ultra-rare car?
>
> Keith
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 04:43:27 -0500 (EST)
From: KINNEYLM@webtv.net (MIKE KINNEY)
Subject: [none]

unsubscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 06:47:37 -0600
From: "John Kreitzer" <john.kreitzer@gte.net>
Subject: Re: Radio Antenna Disconnect

Unless your car is something different, there is a black cable (about the
size of a cable TV cable) just grab hold of the metal part of the connector
on the wire nearest the radio and pull straight out, thats all there is to
it.
Hope this helps.

John
- -----Original Message-----
From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, October 24, 1998 11:02 PM
Subject: Radio Antenna Disconnect


>On a 72 Olds Cutlass, how do you disconnect the antenna wire from the
>radio? I have the AM/FM stereo radio and can't figure out how to get this
>wire off the radio.....
>
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 08:12:35 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Re: Radio Antenna Disconnect

If it's a normal setup, it pulls straight out with a little effort..!! Not that
difficult


From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, October 24, 1998 11:02 PM
Subject: Radio Antenna Disconnect


>On a 72 Olds Cutlass, how do you disconnect the antenna wire from the
>radio? I have the AM/FM stereo radio and can't figure out how to get this
>wire off the radio.....
>
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>


I go flying..........
...................so high,
.....................................when I'm stoned.
                                                "Harry Chapin..."

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 08:24:49 -0500
From: "John H. Edmonds III" <edmonds@UU.NET>
Subject: Jetaway question

- --------------F995C5699954BBC7F28E0BC7
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hey all,

    I need to add transmission fluid to the Jetaway that is in my 67
Cutlass Supreme Convertible, but I am unsure as to where to pour it.
Down the same tube that the tranny dipstick sits in? The transmission
was rebuilt two years ago, but has recently begun to leak slightly. I am
not too concerned about this since I am planning a swap to a TH350 in
the spring anyway...

- --
============================================================================
John H. Edmonds III
Network Operations Engineer
UUNET WorldCom
(703) 206-5485

Eat, drink and be merry, then sleep it off.
============================================================================



- --------------F995C5699954BBC7F28E0BC7
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML>
Hey all,

<P>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I&nbsp;need to add transmission fluid to the Jetaway
that is in my 67 Cutlass Supreme Convertible, but I&nbsp;am unsure as to
where to pour it. Down the same tube that the tranny dipstick sits in?
The transmission was rebuilt two years ago, but has recently begun to leak
slightly. I&nbsp;am not too concerned about this since I am planning a
swap to a TH350 in the spring anyway...
<PRE>--&nbsp;
============================================================================
John H. Edmonds III
Network Operations Engineer
UUNET WorldCom
(703) 206-5485


Eat, drink and be merry, then sleep it off.
============================================================================</P
R
E> &nbsp;</HTML>

- --------------F995C5699954BBC7F28E0BC7--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 08:32:18 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1569

Hello all,
 I've read some chatter about using a 455 piston in a 350. The
compression hieght on the 455 is 1.74", while the compression hieght on
the 350 is 1.615". The piston will stick out of the top of the block.
 The 425 piston CAN be used in the 350, as the 425's compression
distance is the same as the 350's.
 BTW a std bore 350 piston can used in an early 400 too, @.057" over.

Dave Brode
64 cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 08:48:36 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: HI!

Hi Ray -

Look at menu:   Tools/Options/Send

There's a choice for HTML or Text Only

drc


 Now, do I have to turn off html or
>something?  Using Microsoft Outlook
>
>Ray Costanzo
>87 409 Cutlass
>Bucks County PA
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 10:04:55 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: shifter cable clips

10 points to the person who comes up with the right answer - what did I use
to fasten the cable.....???????


The General
____________

That would be the clip that holds the brake hose to the frame bracket.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 10:14:17 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Hot Rod Power Tour (70 442 wagon)

Well i went to the power tour today and guess what I saw?  An orange W30
442
Wagon.  That's right a wagon, it has the red fenderwells and all. The guy
said
that it's  only one of two made.  I took pictures and they will be on my
web
site soon.
Does anyone know anything about this ultra-rare car?

Keith
________

Careful, as there have been a lot of 442 and W-30 wagons built from Cutlass
Cruisers and Vista Cruisers by the owners (it isn't that hard).  Unless
this car has air tight factory documentation, I'd be very suspect - heck,
my first car was a 68 "442" Vista Cruiser.

Having said that, there _are_ two factory W-wagons that I have
documentation for.  The first is a 68 Vista cruiser (complete with Saffron
paint and faux wood) that was fitted with a 68 H/O drivetrain and
suspension.  Yes, it even had the under bumper scoops.  This car was
featured in Car and Driver in 68.  Again in 1970, the factory built a
Cutlass Cruiser-based W-wagon, this time with the complete W-30 package of
O.A.I. hood and F-headed W-motor.  This car, interestingly enough, _was_
painted orange (actually Rally Red) and was tested by both Road and Track
and Car Life in 1970.  Don't know what happened to either car, (neither
_should_ have been sold to the public) but if the 70 noted in the original
post can be documented as the Olds engineering test car, it would be worth
a lot.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 09:48:18 -0500
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: overdrive trans

I have a gearvendors overdrive on my turbo 400 and I love it. I just
came back from Rockingham dragway, and run the car hard and no problems,
1.60 60 ft and it holds up fine.  made it to third round at the Sears
craftman finales ran for Gainesville track .I broke out by 2.000th Car
ran 7.264 at 94 mph in 1/8   Butch 68 442  post

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 09:52:11 EST
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: Email advertising in JWO  answered

e mail address   is jwo@primary.net


jeff   atl ga

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 06:54:50 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Radio Antenna Disconnect

> On a 72 Olds Cutlass, how do you disconnect the antenna wire from
> the radio?

Pull Real Hard. Straight out.

Sometimes there's a right-angle plug on the end of the antenna lead,
but however the lead approaches the stereo, it always plugs straight
in, so just yank it straight out again.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 07:03:08 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Darkness problem

> After getting my 72 cutlass painted recently I'm in the dark.

As practically everybody on the entire list has said by now, you
probably got the pin switches in the doors glopped up. One simple
test should answer this: Can you still turn on those lights by
twisting the headlight knob counterclockwise all the way?

If yes, get a deep socket and carefully unscrew the pin switch
from each door pillar. If you're real careful you can withdraw
the wires with the switch through the hole in the pillar, and
unplug it. Then clean it or replace it depending on what you find.
Wipe a little Vaseline petroleum jelly on the cone-shaped metal
contact where the plunger touches the side terminals to close the
circuit. Those switches are pretty cheap and easy to find.

Don't jump a mile if the wire connectors ground on the door pillar
and start sparking, because they are not short-circuiting. The
interior light circuit is a switched-ground design, so all that will
happen if the wires ground to the door pillar is that your lights
will go on. No harm, no foul.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 10:14:38 -0500
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: Fuel tank vents

Need some advise.  Because of a strong vaccum (after driving the car)
when I remove my gas cap, I think my fuel vents are plugged.  Also there
is no fuel in the carb after I let it sit a while.  I suspect the fuel
is being pulled back into the lines.  Before I crawl under to check,are
the hoses etc readily available?  Does the tank have to be removed to
replace the lines etc.  The service manual mentions a surge tank and
foam restrictor as well.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 10:15:55 -0500
From: "Shpud" <shpud@hotmail.com>
Subject: HELP!

Hi,
I received a 1967 Delmont 88 convertible yesterday, it's in fairly good
condition, but the rear curtain in the convertible top needed replacing. I have
a brand new one, but I have no clue what to do with it since the old one was
already removed when the car arrived. Can anyone help me out with this, or lead
me to someone else who could? I need to get the curtain in there really soon!

Spruce Schintz
Marathon, ON
Canada
- ----------------------------------------------------
If you have ICQ my ICQ# is 1206779
If you don't have ICQ you can page me through:
* My Communication Center: http://wwp.mirabilis.com/1206779 (go there and try
it!) * Or you can send me e-mail to 1206779@pager.mirabilis.com -
----------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 09:22:06 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Best body filler choices

Don,
Hard time finding beeswax any more, thats what you dip the wooden lead
paddles in to keep them from sticking to the melted lead. Quite an artform.
Used to be some real artists in the past. ( Did not include me, mine didn't
fall out, but a lot of grinding and finish prep).
Lou
- ----------
> From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Best body filler choices
> Date: Saturday, October 24, 1998 10:53 PM

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 10:50:39 -0500
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: parts

Hey guys I bought a 12 bolt rear and other parts from a fellow that is
on our list .Ijust want to say that everything was what he said and I
also got to meet with him at rockingham,If any body needs any parts that
he is selling, they will be what he says they are, a real nice guy and I
know he will treat   you right .His name is Chris at SOMMERVILLE@aol.com

            Butch  68  442  post

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 09:54:08 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank vents

Wayne,
No direct connection from fuel lines into the float bowl liquid, Just dumps
it in like a garden hose. No way it can be sucked out, because there's a
built in vacuum break. Sounds like two separate problems, one with carb,
one with tank. Dumb Q, is the cap OK?
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
- ---------
> From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
> To: olds chat <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Fuel tank vents
> Date: Sunday, October 25, 1998 9:14 AM
>
> Need some advise.  Because of a strong vaccum (after driving the car)
> when I remove my gas cap, I think my fuel vents are plugged.  Also there
> is no fuel in the carb after I let it sit a while.  I suspect the fuel
> is being pulled back into the lines.  Before I crawl under to check,are
> the hoses etc readily available?  Does the tank have to be removed to
> replace the lines etc.  The service manual mentions a surge tank and
> foam restrictor as well.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 11:08:29 -0500
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank vents

I think so its the first thing I replaced but no change.  Wayne

Lou Biggs wrote:
>
> Wayne,
> No direct connection from fuel lines into the float bowl liquid, Just dumps
> it in like a garden hose. No way it can be sucked out, because there's a
> built in vacuum break. Sounds like two separate problems, one with carb,
> one with tank. Dumb Q, is the cap OK?
> Lou Biggs
> lbiggs@intertek.net
> ---------
> > From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
> > To: olds chat <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > Subject: Fuel tank vents
> > Date: Sunday, October 25, 1998 9:14 AM
> >
> > Need some advise.  Because of a strong vaccum (after driving the car)
> > when I remove my gas cap, I think my fuel vents are plugged.  Also there
> > is no fuel in the carb after I let it sit a while.  I suspect the fuel
> > is being pulled back into the lines.  Before I crawl under to check,are
> > the hoses etc readily available?  Does the tank have to be removed to
> > replace the lines etc.  The service manual mentions a surge tank and
> > foam restrictor as well.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 10:15:19 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank vents

Wayne,
Pont TA, Q jet did it, emptied the float bowl overnight, bad gasket allowed
the fuel to run into intake mani. Started every am with dry float bowl,
after two starters, I rebuilt the carb, fixed it. Don't know about tank
unless canister return hose blocked. Someone on the list should have that
answer. Hoses can be reached, pain in the ass, need good lighting and long
narrow arms and hands. Prepare for a head full of dirt.
Lou
- ----------
> From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Fuel tank vents
> Date: Sunday, October 25, 1998 10:08 AM
>
> I think so its the first thing I replaced but no change.  Wayne

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 12:15:07 -0500
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank vents

Thanks Lou.  I had the original carb off my 69 carb rebuilt since it
needed it badly.  The problem still persisted so this AM I pulled off
the carb again and looked at the gasket.  It was OK but I had put a 1"
spacer between the carb and the manifold and this gasket was broken in
the area of the choke.  It became brittle and cracked due to the heat.
It starts better now.....but I still have the vacuum problem.  Still
would like to know if the lines, surge tank and restrictor (foam) are
still available from GM.  Does anyone know?  My dealer was not too
helpful....small potatoes.

Lou Biggs wrote:
>
> Wayne,
> Pont TA, Q jet did it, emptied the float bowl overnight, bad gasket allowed
> the fuel to run into intake mani. Started every am with dry float bowl,
> after two starters, I rebuilt the carb, fixed it. Don't know about tank
> unless canister return hose blocked. Someone on the list should have that
> answer. Hoses can be reached, pain in the ass, need good lighting and long
> narrow arms and hands. Prepare for a head full of dirt.
> Lou
> ----------
> > From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: Fuel tank vents
> > Date: Sunday, October 25, 1998 10:08 AM
> >
> > I think so its the first thing I replaced but no change.  Wayne

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 11:53:54 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Radio Antenna Disconnect

OK, it just didn't feel right when I was trying to pull on it. IT was not
comming off and I didn't want to butcher it. Thanks, I will give it a try.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Andrew C. Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Radio Antenna Disconnect
> Date: Sunday, October 25, 1998 8:54 AM
>
>
> > On a 72 Olds Cutlass, how do you disconnect the antenna wire from
> > the radio?
>
> Pull Real Hard. Straight out.
>
> Sometimes there's a right-angle plug on the end of the antenna lead,
> but however the lead approaches the stereo, it always plugs straight
> in, so just yank it straight out again.
>
> -- Andy
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 13:53:14 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Convert Rear Curtain Replacement

Can't use the "h*lp" word; forwarding.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Shpud" <shpud@hotmail.com>

Hi,

I received a 1967 Delmont 88 convertible yesterday, it's in fairly good
condition, but the rear curtain in the convertible top needed replacing. I
have a brand new one, but I have no clue what to do with it since the old
one was already removed when the car arrived. Can anyone h*lp me out with
this, or lead me to someone else who could? I need to get the curtain in
there really soon!

Spruce Schintz
Marathon, ON
Canada
- ----------------------------------------------------
If you have ICQ my ICQ# is 1206779
If you don't have ICQ you can page me through:
* My Communication Center: http://wwp.mirabilis.com/1206779 (go there and try
it!) * Or you can send me e-mail to 1206779@pager.mirabilis.com -
----------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 13:06:00 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: HI!

On Sunday, October 25, 1998 2:23 AM, Ray Costanzo 
[SMTP:costanzo@netcarrier.com]
wrote: > Hey list!  I broke down and bought a real computer and a real isp, and
I now > have a website.

Where's the website, Ray????  :-)  We wanna see pics!

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 12:14:41 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Best body filler choices

>
>I was discussing the repair of my toys with the current body man of
>choice a couple weeks ago when he came up in this area.  I told him that
>WHEN we get started on the cars in the rust repair department I wanted
>them metalled (rust cut out, metal patches put in) and then I thought
>leading would be the best to use to fill in the rest.  He said there was
>a new filler out that contained metal that good for long term fixes.  I
>hadn't heard of this particular product, so I didn't know how to
>respond.  I still think lead is the way to go if you don't want to do it
>again in a few years, but I would like to find out more about this
>product.  It is also possible that I misunderstood him, but Idon't think
>so.  Of course it would not be the first time I have been told I'm
>crazy.  :)
>
If done properly, You can cut out the rust and weld in new metal, and you
should have to use no more than a skim coat of bondo, mainly around the
ground down welds.  The major problems with bondo is that either people
dont mix it right or they don't apply it right.  The rougher you get the
surface
the better it will adhere and it works best with thin coats and its better
to
add too much hardener than too little, otherwise it won't fully cure.  I
salvaged a fender on my 72 that had been cut in 4 pieces and welded
back together.  The center of the fender had over 1/2" of bondo in it and
nobody would believe me.  After the car ended up in a ditch the fender
was bent right through the bondo area and I beat on it with a hammer
and still couldn't get the bondo to pop.  I finally used a chisel and dug a
gouge in it but anything else would have been too much work.  The repair
had already been 7 yrs old at that time.  I originally just planned on it
being a chance to learn a bit of how to use bondo and do some bodywork
and replace the fender later but never got around to it cuz it looked fine
and
I never had the extra $$$ for a new fender.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 13:27:57 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Engine noise Diagnosis help needed!

        Goodmorning list.
        I am having a hard time tracking down the source of a noise from my 65
Olds Cutlass. First, the essentials: 330c.i. with stock (completely!)heads,
Edelbrock RPM
cam, lifters, intake, and 650cfm carburetor, MSD Blaster2 coil, Mallory
Unilite conversion in the distibutor (new malloey cap and rotor too), "BOP"
TH-350 transmission (beefed up with heavyduty sprag , shaft, and valvebody
mods) from a 72 Olds Cutlass, 1200 RPM stall convertor (new GM).
       The noise is a LOUD "pinging" sound coming from the area of the back of
the motor (or so it seams). The noise is only present during acceleration.
When I'm in the car by myself (less weight) the pinging sound less easy to
make appear. With a car load of friends (more weight) the noise is almost
constantly present. I think that I can rule out the flexplate as the culprit,
after visiting a local, well respected, transmision shop to see if they can
find the source. The owner sat in the car and ran the usual diagnostic test of
switching the trans from park to nuetral to drive while listening for clunking
noises( haha, he had to ask me for instructions on how to operate the Hurst
ratchet shifter!). The noise is not steady( as in occuring repeatedly with
each revolution of the motor), in fact it is erratic as
hell!...ping...................pingping...........pingpingping..............pi
ng..........and so on.
       I already tried all of the common fixes and tests, such as checking
timing(dead on at 6 degrees BTDC with the vacuum disconnected and port from
the carb plugged.) I checked for vacuum leaks , but with this radical cam
lope, vacuum is VERY wild at idle( varying from 5 to 15 hg at idle to a steady
18or more at 1500+ RPM).
       Could it be a loose convertor bolt? Cracked flexplate? Broken vavle
spring(runs very good though)?U-joints?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 12:39:07 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Races

All, NHRA is on now, Force went 5.78, 222 in qual. Phoenix Winston cup on
at 14:00 EST, TNN, after then more NHRA on TNN.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 12:45:11 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Races

Oops, 4.78!!

- ----------
> From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
> To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Races
> Date: Sunday, October 25, 1998 12:39 PM
>
> All, NHRA is on now, Force went 5.78, 222 in qual. Phoenix Winston cup on
> at 14:00 EST, TNN, after then more NHRA on TNN.
> Lou Biggs
> lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 12:52:30 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank vents

Wayne,
Think they are still avail thru GM, if not someone out there has a cure. GM
stocks weird parts forever. Not weird, but parts one does not have to
replace very often.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net


- ----------
> From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Fuel tank vents

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 03:14:41 -0500
From: "Chris Brown" <Elric@dclink.com>
Subject: Re: Hot Rod Power Tour  (70 442 wagon)

Its possible, considering this months issue of PHR had a (I think 71) GTO
station wagon, that was one of 125 made.
- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Elric <Elric>
Date: Sunday, October 25, 1998 3:59 AM
Subject: Hot Rod Power Tour (70 442 wagon)


>
>Well i went to the power tour today and guess what I saw?  An orange W30
442
>Wagon.  That's right a wagon, it has the red fenderwells and all. The guy
said
>that it's  only one of two made.  I took pictures and they will be on my
web
>site soon.
>Does anyone know anything about this ultra-rare car?
>
>Keith
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 14:18:30 -0500
From: "Chris Brown" <Elric@dclink.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank vents

what year is the car?
I know on the late models, and I suspect on the early models, most gas caps
have a label that says (remove carefully, system is pressurized).  so it may
not be a problem.  The carb problem is a whole different story, but I dont
have enough knowledge of that to give advice.

Chris Brown
72 Cutlass Supreme
- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Elric <Elric>
Date: Sunday, October 25, 1998 10:58 AM
Subject: Fuel tank vents


>
>Need some advise.  Because of a strong vaccum (after driving the car)
>when I remove my gas cap, I think my fuel vents are plugged.  Also there
>is no fuel in the carb after I let it sit a while.  I suspect the fuel
>is being pulled back into the lines.  Before I crawl under to check,are
>the hoses etc readily available?  Does the tank have to be removed to
>replace the lines etc.  The service manual mentions a surge tank and
>foam restrictor as well.
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 14:39:37 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: HI!

www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
though there's nothing there yet!

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Jason Adcock
> Sent: Sunday, October 25, 1998 1:06 PM
> To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject: RE: HI!
>
>
> On Sunday, October 25, 1998 2:23 AM, Ray Costanzo
> [SMTP:costanzo@netcarrier.com] wrote:
> > Hey list!  I broke down and bought a real computer and a real
> isp, and I now
> > have a website.
>
> Where's the website, Ray????  :-)  We wanna see pics!
>
> Jason Adcock
> Blacksburg, VA
> ICQ: 5860857
> E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
> Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 15:52:25 +0000
From: ejhufnagel@juno.com (Edward J. Hufnagel)
Subject: 2 new Olds in corral

Picked up 2 Olds Cutlass Cieras.  86 and 87.  87 is a parts car.  Color
is grey in and out.  Interior is in damn fine shape.  Am stripping it
now.  Anyone need parts?  Cheap + shipping.  Car is located in New York.

Regards,
               E.J.

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 14:43:33 +0000
From: "Joe Gerschutz" <gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu>
Subject: Mondello catalog

I have a question on the Mondello catalog.  Does this have many
parts for a 350, or is it mostly big blocks?  Are prices reasonable?
Also, how about the tech manual.  Is it a good deal? Thanks.

Joe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 16:04:37 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Prep for engine storage?

I've had my 350 out of the Cutlass for about 4 years.  It's been sitting in
a couple of garages on a cradle.  One heated, one not.

As some might know I'm near the end of long frame-off customization.  You
know the story:  "never though it would take so long...."

Motor ran great (good rebuilt with about 60K on it), but finally decided
this summer that I'm putting in a BB.

So what have I done to it because of this neglect?  Rust on the cylinder
walls, pitting because of acidic oil etc.?
(Ya I know 4 years is a long time to procrastinate.)

I'm clueless.

So my question:

Given that I've booted this off for so long what should I do now to keep
the motor in mothballs?

TIA,

jp

Jonathan Parke
mailto:jonparke@together.net

'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
(near the end of a 5 year frame off customization)

'60 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider Veloce
(completely in pieces, perfect body, long term restoration)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 13:43:07 -0800
From: Chris & Robin Miller <cya442@san.rr.com>
Subject: Muffler Question

    Ok, I have a set of three chamber Flowmaster mufflers on my "68 442
with a 455 and they are too loud for my likes.  Guess I'm getting too
old, HA!!  Anyway, the system has 2 1/2" pipes all the way back with an
H-pipe behind the tranny and I would like some input on other types of
mufflers out there.  Would still like some noise but not too much.
Thanks.

- --
Chris Miller
'68 442
San Diego, CA
mailto:cya442@san.rr.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 16:53:35 EST
From: JJP442@aol.com
Subject: Re:  overdrive trans

Just curious, what kind of mpg do you get with that set up??
John
JJP442@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 14:11:45 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Jetaway question

At 08:24 AM 10/25/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
> Hey all,
>
>     I need to add transmission fluid to the Jetaway that is in my 67 Cutlass
> Supreme Convertible, but I am unsure as to where to pour it. Down the same
> tube that the tranny dipstick sits in? The transmission was rebuilt two
years
> ago, but has recently begun to leak slightly. I am not too concerned about
> this since I am planning a swap to a TH350 in the spring anyway...
> -- > </blockquote>> Yes, fill it from the dipstick tube.> All jetaways
leak. GM even put out a service buliten > about jetaways leaking THROUGH
the case itself.

Yes, fill it from the dipstick

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 16:19:31 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Mondello catalog

I haven't seen the new Mondello catalog but several years ago
I built a 350 using a bunch of Mondello parts and the prices were
reasonable.  I got pistons, gasket kit, bearings, valves, etc. either
locally or from Summit and just shopped around for the best prices.
Some of the parts I got from Mondello are:
Main stud and strap kit
Lifter valley tray
Windage tray
Oil restrictors
11 qt. oil pan & high volume pump
Cam kit
The tech I got from Mondello was very useful in that there are not
usually many knowledgable Olds people around and the Olds
specific experience really gave me warm fuzzies.  And when I
called the tech line I was shocked to be talking to Joe himself!
If you have any more questions email me.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net

- -----Original Message-----
From: Joe Gerschutz <gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, October 25, 1998 1:43 PM
Subject: Mondello catalog


I have a question on the Mondello catalog.  Does this have many
parts for a 350, or is it mostly big blocks?  Are prices reasonable?
Also, how about the tech manual.  Is it a good deal? Thanks.

Joe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 17:28:34 EST
From: TheBlue67@aol.com
Subject: Parts 4 Sale

Set of 4 SS1 14x6 wheels. they are in nice condition. 3 are sandblasted and
need the black part painted on. other is in decient shape. $$$$ make me a
offer.

Set of 4 SS1 14x7 wheels. driver condition. $$$$make me an offer

1" fenillic spacer plate. for a 4bbl Q-Jet. never been used. $40

Parts:
1964-67
65 cutlass hood $100
65 cutlass trunklid $100
65 cutlass convertible 6 piece stainless steel trim set. $250
64-65 power trunk release. complete $150

1968-69
set of 5 SSll trim rings. real nice $75
consle. o.k.  $50 obo
69 TILT floor shift column $150
carpet, lite saddle, brand new $100
carpet, dark saddle, 2 months old $75

1970
442 bumper in primer $125
consle $125
Tilt column. $150
decklid $75
Fenders......inquire about price
carpet, lite saddle, brand new $100
carpet, dark saddle, 2 months old $75

1971-72
consle $125
Tilt column. $150
front bumper. nice chrome $75
decklid $75
sport mirror, driver remote $40
72 rear lenses $15 a pair
carpet, lite saddle, brand new $100
carpet, dark saddle, 2 months old $75

no prices include shipping. depends on the item you are buying wether or not
you will have to pay shipping. Located in the Cleveland Ohio area. E-mail me
privately if you have any questions on anything. TheBlue67@Aol.com

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible (freshly painted and now being reasmebled)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 17:43:12 -0500
From: Brian Richardson <brian.richardson@mci.com>
Subject: I need a few parts before it gets any colder

The parts I'm looking for should be very easy to come by, it just that
I've been traveling alot and yadda yadda yadda. Anyway, please e-mail me
if you can help.


for a ' 72 Cutlass S w/ AC
1). AC/ heat fan switch, wire connector and some wire length left on
2). AC/ heat/ vent control switch, wire connector and some wire length
left on
3). Cool/ heat control switch, wire connector and some wire length left
on

Basically, I need the entire set of switches to control the AC/ heater
in my car along with the wire connectors and as much wire length left on
the connectors as possible.

Please e-mail me personally if you can help.

Thanks in Advance,
brian.richardson@mci.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 14:49:31 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Block thick or thin?

A big block chevy is the heaviest of all blocks, except for a hemi.





>From oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca Sat Oct 24 18:16:47 1998
>Received: by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca id <34038-10047>; Sat, 24 Oct 1998
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with ESMTP id <33623-10045>; Sat, 24 Oct 1998 22:16:08 -0300
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>	for <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; Sat, 24 Oct 1998 21:15:34 -0400 (EDT)
>Message-ID: <36327B52.1BA7@xtalwind.net>
>Date:	Sat, 24 Oct 1998 21:13:54 -0400
>From:	"Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
>X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01 (Win95; I)
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Block thick or thin?
>References: <001901bdffaf$d6f85300$f0876420@oemcomputer>
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>
>> As a whole Olds motors have thicker walls and
>> the occurence of major amounts of core shift is not common.
>
>Blocks aren't always as thick as you think.  For instance, I can lift a
>455 bare block and set it in the back of the truck to take to the
>machine shop.  The 455 is pretty thin.  Albeit a bit bulky.  However,
>when I went to lift that 454 block...I needed help.  Compared big inch
>to big inch, there is DEFINITELY more meat in a Chevy BB vs a large
>Olds.  Smaller cube engines, I'm not sure, but there may be a
difference
>there.
>
>Core shift isn't common in ANY Olds V-8 engine according to the master
>machinist where I get my work done.  So align boring and cylinder
boring
>compensation isn't as common to do to an Olds engine, which is a
>heavenly $$ savings, but you make up for that on other parts.  The guy
>even said that Olds engines as a whole usually are the best of all of
>the makes in staying "straight", talking about decking and head
>milling.  But he always recommends a truing just to play it safe.
>
>Mike Rothe
>


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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1570
*********************************
