Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1575


oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, October 27 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1575



Re: Exhaust Conversion.
Re: B&M Transpak/Shift Kit
Cam Bearing Spun??
Re: B&M Transpak/Shift Kit
Re: Air cleaners, carbs, flowmasters, et. al.(soapbox)
70-72 OAI air cleaner top
Re: Air cleaners, carbs, flowmasters, et. al.(soapbox)
Re: SEATS
Re: 1984 Hurst F/S
Re: 1984 Hurst F/S
Re: 403 heads..best?
Re: Cam Selection Software
Re: Oldsmobile Restoration Resource - NOT!
Some interesting Olds modifications
Re: Mondello catalog
StickShift 81-88 G-Body?
Re: Cam Bearing Spun??
Re: Water Pump Gone
Re: What do you think of the Alero?
Re: open element air cleaner
test
Re: Olds rims
Re: Cam Selection Software
tire year from code???
Re: Aligning a door
Delmont Owners
Re: StickShift 81-88 G-Body?
Re: Cam Selection Software
Re: open element air cleaner
tank size
CONVERTIBLE LOCKS++?
Re: 1965 425 Motor
Enough with the Air Cleaner!
Re: Aligning a door
sources for interior panels, seat covers
Parts
Re: Oldsmobile Restoration Resource - NOT!
The Goat Guy in OK (Was Re: Oldsmobile Resto...)
Re: door jamb bolt
Re: 70-72 442 Black Dash Pad
Re: Aligning a door
67 f85
Re: Aligning a door
Re: tank size
Re: open element air cleaner
Re: open element air cleaner
Re: Open Element Air Cleaner
Re: 67 f85
Re: Supertrapp's
Re: Oldsmobile Restoration Resource - NOT!
Re: Parts
Re: Aligning a door
Re: tank size
Classifieds section on www.g-body.org
Re: FLOW MASTER MUFFLERS

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 21:48:01 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Conversion.

>The point I was trying to make is that I don't think I've every seen a torch
>and
>coat hangar job that looked pretty.  Maybe its just me but a mig weld looks
>a lot better and this is my baby were talking about.

It is alot easier to get a thin bead with a mig set up.

>quicky exhaust places do some horrible (90 degree angles, butt welded)
>things with exhaust pipe.

~shudder~

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 21:50:36 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: B&M Transpak/Shift Kit

Transpak is a rebuild kit.  The shift improver works well.  The Hurst
Shift Kit Rocks!!  but it is hard to find sometimes.

>
>Salutations oldsmobilers. Does anyone out there use a B&M Transpak
>shift kit? on a TH350?  How about a B&M Shift Improver Kit?  Do you
>like it?  I realize these don't help ~much~ with performance but it
>seems like it would be more fun to drive this way.  Do they hurt/help
>a tranny in any way?  Thanks.
>
>Joe
>-Pondering a shift kit
>
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 23:53:57 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Cam Bearing Spun??

What would cause a cam bearing to spin and seize itself to the cam journal
itself? This is on a 455 and on the middle cam journal.


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 21:56:58 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: B&M Transpak/Shift Kit

If you read, in the directs for the shift improver it says that it might
speed a badly torn trans it will help to increase the ware.  Also you
want to have about 1000 miles on a newly rebuilt trans before installing
a kit.


>They firmer and quicker a trans shifts, the longer life it will have.
When
>a trans goes into the gear slowly it grinds on the clutches more than
when
>it goes in quickly. You will feel the shift more but the trans will
love
>you for it. The B&M kit is good, just have someone who knows what they
are
>doing install it.
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>----------
>> From: Joe Gerschutz <gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: B&M Transpak/Shift Kit
>> Date: Monday, October 26, 1998 5:00 PM
>>
>> Salutations oldsmobilers. Does anyone out there use a B&M Transpak
>> shift kit? on a TH350?  How about a B&M Shift Improver Kit?  Do you
>> like it?  I realize these don't help ~much~ with performance but it
>> seems like it would be more fun to drive this way.  Do they hurt/help
>> a tranny in any way?  Thanks.
>>
>> Joe
>> -Pondering a shift kit
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 22:04:11 -0800
From: "Corey Day" <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Air cleaners, carbs, flowmasters, et. al.(soapbox)

Word

Corey Day
dayc@ix.netcom.com
1970 Cutlass S - 455
www.netcom.com/~dayc/
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Rothe. <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, October 26, 1998 7:25 PM
Subject: Air cleaners, carbs, flowmasters, et. al.(soapbox)


>Everyone,
>
>Sorry for wasting bandwidth here, but either because I am tired, or in a
>funky mood, or whatever, I'm getting a bit disturbed about the quality
>of some of the posts lately.  I enjoy good banter about a subject, and
>whether someone disagrees or not, we all will probably learn something.
>
>However, lately it seems like either some people are is on each other's
>case about something,  useless threads that don't contribute much to the
>list knowledge, dead-horse beating, and a sundry of other things that
>just seem irritating.  Or it just could be that I'm suffering from PMS.
>
>Either way, I seem to use the delete button more in the past few days
>than I have in the past.  It seems that threads deteriorate quickly into
>something that wasn't even initiated by the original thread.  Which, is
>ok mostly, but if the subject changes, so should the subject line.
>
>EVERYONE on this list has something to contribute, or the potential to
>contribute, and participation is encouraged.  But let us please try to
>use a bit more forethought in posting what we want to say.  Oldsmobile
>lovers as a whole are a very passionate about their cars, and no one
>likes to feel like they've been dissed or missed on a question or a
>comment.  Keeping things a little bit lighter and more on target can
>only benefit.  Don't get me wrong.  Different views are vital in
>maintaining healthy communication.  We're all human, (mostly) and we are
>not all programmed to think the same.  But it seems that some of the
>time, list etiquette sometimes gets tossed aside when posting.
>
>I'll reiterate some of the things that most of the list members sort of
>inferred what they expect to see (or NOT see).  In no particular order:
>
>No flames.
>No "me too" or simialr postings.
>Responding to the individual's personal e-mail address to "bicker".
>Post your Olds questions, regardless of others' opinions.
>Answering questions others may have that you have knowledge on.
>Information on upcoming events, where to get good deals, etc.
>Keeping things Olds related (mostly).
>For God's sake, SNIP long posts down when replying.  Don't repost the
>entire message AGAIN, unless that's the only way to make sense of the
>response.
>Be considerate of others.
>Have a good time learning and sharing knowledge, Olds stories, tech
>stuff.
>Try to post only things that you think could benefit all the members of
>the list.
>No personal replies to the list, unless you can't seem to "find" that
>person's personal e-mail.
>
>And there's more, but this is just a sample.  I know I've been guilty of
>bending the "rules" myself from time to time, so I'm not throwing stones
>at anyone in particular.
>
>If anyone here wants to flame me personally for posting this, then go
>ahead. hurstolds@xtalwind.net I'm still going to sleep tonight, and I'll
>still have my delete button handy.
>
>Sorry, Greg, I just felt this needed saying.
>I also apologize for any inconvenience this post may have brought to
>anyone.
>
>Fin.
>
>Mike Rothe
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 01:07:53 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: 70-72 OAI air cleaner top

Hello all on the list, especially the new guys on the list.  I have been a
member on this list since June of 96 myself.  Now thats out of the way,  I am
looking for a 70-72 ram air air-cleaner top. I am looking for one that has
been hacked up. I use them for racing and I have one which had the center
partial cut out and I need another for my other car and one for my brother-in-
laws car.  Any help would be appreciated and please email me direct at
WMACHINES@aol.com

Thanks in advance
W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
Two 72 442 W-30's
visit my web pages at
http://members.aol.com/wmachines

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 00:17:04 -0500
From: "Johnny Gage" <bladernr@roava.net>
Subject: Re: Air cleaners, carbs, flowmasters, et. al.(soapbox)

- -----Original Message-----
From: Corey Day <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, October 27, 1998 1:04 AM
Subject: Re: Air cleaners, carbs, flowmasters, et. al.(soapbox)


>Word
>
>Corey Day

<everything else quoted here snipped to prevent listmembers from going
postal>

OK! OK! OK!
Now I am even getting tired of this...  30-45 lines of text for ONE WORD!!!
ONE WORD!!!  I have learned so much fromt his list on the istory of Olds,
and how to: (insert job here) for my Toronado...  but I am agreeing with so
many others...  this has got to stop.

I apologize to all the list for this little diatribe, but I ahve deleted the
same message several times (because it keeps getting quoted IN FULL)

it is hard not to start a flame war, but I will try my best.

Now, on to other topics:

do any of you have any suggestions for beefing up a 425 without doing
anything obvious (I want it too look original and stock on the outside, with
the exception of maybe a carb)

I have been looking into changing cams, lifters, valves,a dn maybe even
heads...  but dont knwo what to look for...  any suggestions?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 01:30:19 -0500
From: "Steve C" <cutlass@citlink.net>
Subject: Re: SEATS

There is a place in farmingdale NY that sell a variety of parts you could
use it is called Muscle Car Headquarters there phone number is 516-753-0720
they should have what you need
- -----Original Message-----
From: Frank Montero <parc@erols.com>
To: OLDSMOBILE@chebucto.ns.ca <OLDSMOBILE@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, October 26, 1998 3:43 PM
Subject: SEATS


>I need the chrome caps that go on the sides of both front seats where you
>adjust the reclining. There like plastic covers. Mine snapped. Can someone
>head me in the right direction as to where I can pick these up at. All the
>junk yards I go to don't have them or they're destroyed(very ugly).
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 00:45:24 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: 1984 Hurst F/S

jason shreve wrote:
>
> The car is located in Georgetown.  I called he said the engine and trans
> was rebuilt, the interior is in good shape except one worn spot on the
> drivers side floor and the console door was cracked.  Her also stated it
> needed a paint job and sticker kit.  The factory wheels are on the car
> but the clear coat is flaking off.  The numbers are supposed to match.
> It was wrecked in the front when he bought it and he repaced the door
> house, except for the hood it is original.

Probably means the dog house or front end.  I must apologize for not
knowing the telephone exchange where the car was located, but this must
be a new one for the Georgetown area.  I've never seen it before and,
frankly didn't know where it was.  I would look at it if anyone is
interested, but I am not really very "up" on this particular car as my
interests are generally in the 1969 to 1972 era for Oldsmobiles.  If
someone would like me to take a peek, email me privately and I will do
what I can.  Make sure you are very detailed as to what you want me to
check and how to check it, however.

Don Sowers

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 00:53:29 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: 1984 Hurst F/S

Don Sowers wrote:

> someone would like me to take a peek, email me privately and I will do
> what I can.  Make sure you are very detailed as to what you want me to
> check and how to check it, however.

Sorry folks, but old age must be catching up with me.  You can't email
me privately if you don't have the address.  It's located
at:                      dstaxpro@lex.infi.net

Again, I'm sorry.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 01:58:31 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: 403 heads..best?

In a message dated 10/26/98 10:41:40 PM Eastern Standard Time, RCKTPWR@aol.com
writes:

<< What heads does the list recommend for a std 403 w/an alum intake man.?? It
 has 4a's now.
  >>
was there ever a 403 with an aluminum intake stock?  i have a 403 out of a
trans am, and it has a cast iron intake.  kinda funny how the 260 engines had
intakes made out of aluminum!  if it was cheaper to use aluminum, why in the
heck didnt they just make all the intakes out of aluminum???
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 00:36:45 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Cam Selection Software

It won't run for me.  I get a "too many files open error" and then all I can
do is ESC to shut it down.  Any thoughts.


- -----Original Message-----
From: Joe Gerschutz <gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, October 26, 1998 10:19 PM
Subject: Cam Selection Software


I don't know if everyone but me knew this already, but on the
Comp Cams home page (www.compcams.com) there is a program called
Camquest downloadable for free.  It is a cam selection program, where
you enter in info on your car, such as displacement, gear ratio,
weight, make, stall convertor, intake, exhaust, etc. and it spits out
a cam profile suited to your needs (oem, towing, economy, mild perf,
race, etc.).  It also has a utilities section, where you can enter
data and it calculates stuff such as compression ratio, cyl. volume,
air flow, displac., ETs, carb size, cam timing, etc.  Might make some
of your guys' work easier than having to break out the pencil and
paper.
Just thought some of you guys might get a kick out of the program.
Joe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 02:45:44 EST
From: CCRR12@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Restoration Resource - NOT!

The good old boy in Tulsa is not quite that. One guy with a computer, that
tracks parts on the net and sells them. At least that is what I figuired out.
He has the same sources you do.

Randy in Okla
57 88 J2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 04:50:56 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Some interesting Olds modifications

http://www.laureneng.com/HurstOlds.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 06:31:20 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Re: Mondello catalog

drc wrote:

>What annoys me about it tho is that he references his own
>part numbers a lot when describing his methods.

======

My experience with Mondello has been that they see the Olds world in 2
sections.  1) Them and 2) Everybody else who doesn't quit measure up.

I've been doing business with Dick Miller who used to play with Mondello in
the same sand box.  For whatever reasons their association has ended.

Dick has his own shop down in Memphis.  My experience of him is that he is
accessible, has a great attitude, PLUS willing to listen to my perspective
and have a conversation based on collaboration.   I've learned a lot from
him.

I know... shamelss plug... but here's his web address:
http://www.mspmall.com/dmr/

DISCLAIMER/CAVEAT:  Not saying Mondello isn't a good shop (personally have
his tech manual and I've read it cover to cover).  Just saying Dick Miller
is an excellent source for Olds parts, work and knowledge.

jp

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 06:07:44 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: StickShift 81-88 G-Body?

I am not sure if this has come up, but has anyone converted a 81-88
Cutlass to 4 or 5 sp?  I know the 5 sp was avail on the 260 in the up to
77 models, and I suspect the 4-5 speed was available on the V6 78-80,
but from 81-88?

Can I modify a automatic console to look factory 5 sp?  Or 6?  Add 4.10
gears, 6 sp double OD, and have a ball!  Tear up just about anyone off
the line!  Add 455 W30.....6 sp stick.....lighten the chassis.....Can we
say 12's, even 11's if you could ever get traction??

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 08:11:02 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: Cam Bearing Spun??

I have done it on overreving a motor with low oil pressure, but every thing
else went with it to,  but it was a solid lifter M*Par, so no big loss.  just
my .02 Chris

CHRIS SOMMERVILLE
69 442SC
70 442HC
70 W31
AND LOTS OF PARTS FOR SALE!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 08:20:44 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: Water Pump Gone

>This is on my 71 and 72 cutlass's.  Now on my non a/c
>68 Camaro the radiator is almost flush with the opening in the support.
You are comparing apples to oranges or in your case Cutli to come-here-ohs.
What GM did
on one body style may not hold true for another style.  My non AC 70 has the
radiator setting
back a small amount also as does a friends 70 GTO.  And if my failing memory
serves me right, there is a rubber filler that goes in the gap.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 08:28:47 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: What do you think of the Alero?

Too d*mn small for a family!  I looked at a four door and set in the back seat
for sizing.  My head hit the roof and rear glass, while my knees were bent too
much for any long distance and I'm only 5'11".  Definitely not a car for a
family with teen age boys.  Other than that it is a sharp car.  Do they have a
manual transmission option, or are we stuck with another slush box?

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 06:33:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: open element air cleaner

Since we are on the subject of this, what does everyone think of the
K&N air filter cover they have out? I saw it once in Summit I believe.
It replaces the air cleaner top. To me it seems like a good idea since
the air is being sucked in from the top now. Am I wrong?




- ---jason shreve <jasonshreve@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> No an open element air cleaner lets you have better airflow.  It does
> not cause you to burn more gas.  I would get a K&N drop base air
> cleaner.  This will allow you to run a bigger air cleaner.  I would
also
> get a K&N Air filter.  It will greatly help your car breath better.
It
> will help you to also have a free flowing exhaust like you were
asking
> about.  K&N also sells a air cleaner top with a filter built in.  It
> will help to reduce turbulence in the air cleaner.  Also a plus with
K&N
> filters is that they are washable, so you can reuse them.  They have
a
> million mile guarantee!!!
>

==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass "S"
1986 Honda Accord DX

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 09:38:02 EST
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: test

test
ps

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 09:49:17 EST
From: "Norm Baier" <nbaier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Olds rims

I thought the difference in SSII's and SSIII's was that the SSIII's were
painted body

color, but the SSII's were not. Are there other differences?

Norm

- ----Original Message Follows----
Date:	Mon, 26 Oct 1998 14:17:20 -0800 (PST)
From:	Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Olds rims
To:	Oldsmobile E-mail Ring <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

Okay, this has always bugged me! How can you tell the difference in
the SSII and the SSIII rims? I remember being told the difference in
another rim....can't remember if that was the SSI? Is there such a
thing? But, I know that I 2 different sets of ralleys. The ones I have
on my Cutlass have a very thin beauty ring while the ones that I have
sitting and collecting dust are really wide beauty rings. Which ones
which? Anyone wanna buy the 4 I have collecting dust? Make offer! They
need paint. 3 of the 4 beauty rings are there and all of the chrome
ringlets are there.




==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass "S"
1986 Honda Accord DX

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 09:54:46 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Cam Selection Software

I sometimes get the same message. The problem is that it's a DOS program.
Thus it will only access the first 640K of RAM. If you even have one other
program running, you will get this error message. If you have a lot of TSR
utilities (terminate stay resident) you may get the same thing. Go to DOS
and run type: HIMEM. This is a program that will move everything it can into
high memory (a reserved 360K of memory). You can have a GIG of RAM and still
get this message. The program needs to be re-written in windows format. If
you run himem and it still won't run, you may have to shut down the
utilities that are running in the background, i.e., Norton Utilities, Virus
scanners, etc. Camquest is a pretty handy little program. It can do all
sorts of computations for you, but so can a spreadsheet template. I run a
Lotus template that will do many of the same things as Camquest. As far as
cam selection, it does a good job as long as you want a Comp Cams brand cam
of course. It will also recommend cams that aren't available for Oldsmobiles
(thanks for the help). It also is good at spending your money for you on
other accessories like intakes, gears, converters, etc. It's worth having
but I wouldn't lose any sleep if you can't get it to run.
- -----Original Message-----
>
>It won't run for me.  I get a "too many files open error" and then all I
can
>do is ESC to shut it down.  Any thoughts.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 09:32:29 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: tire year from code???

Hi Guys,

this is a question for the tire experts. I have old tires on my dayly
driver and I want to take them off. They have the following codes on them
and I try to figure out what year they are to pick the latest one as a
spare: (sorry the car is a l*nc*ln, but it helps me to pull the olds as
long as it cant go by its own power...)

Dot B3DD C9NX 470
 "   "   A47X 281
 "   "   C9NX 510
VDHL     4FA  146

Thanks, Regards,
George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 10:54:59 -0500
From: rmoriarty@blairinc.com
Subject: Re: Aligning a door

Chris,
First of all belief ain't gonna hack it! Get out there with a scratch awl
and a container of touch-up paint. Dig at that weld looking growth and find
out for sure! Obviously, the touch-up paint is for the wound. If you are
not willing to do that, you are going to have to come to terms with your
door alignment in another way, perhaps a Zen meditation garden ;) . If the
hinge is welded to the jamb and not to the door, aaaaaannd you only need to
make a vertical adjustment. You can adjust the hinge/door mount. Otherwise
youse a gonna hafta have dem welds removed. Second, doors align to the body
shell. Then, after you have the door aligned properly, the fender aligns to
the door. So, if your door is not aligned to your fender, the problem is
actually your fender not being aligned to your door. HA! Need More Coffee!
In addition, the task of aligning doors is made much easier by removing the
fender, which in turn, enforces the procedural flow. Now, all this goes out
the window if the car's frame is broken. You have checked the frame,
haven't you? Chris? Will someone please get some smelling salts for Mr.
Sparks! ;)

The assembly manual has dimensions for the spacing around the door. If all
you need is a fine adjustment start with the hinge/jamb mounts (one at a
time). Gross adjustments also require changing the hinge/door mount. In
addition it helps to have a good friend, plenty of Alcohol and a spare
fender. The friend is to help you hold the door. The alcohol is to help the
friend help you hold the door, and the spare fender is for you to beat with
a hammer when you get frustrated.

Good Luck!
Ray Moriarty



Zen Garden Sales ( No Personal Affiliation, Usual Disclaimers )
http://www.garden-gifts.com/zen.htm



It looks like the hinge is tack-welded to the door.

I think my doors are not high enough since the w/s is higher up on the
door
sill.  I don't believe I have any play with either door.


Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 08:04:15 PST
From: "Spruce Schintz" <shpud@hotmail.com>
Subject: Delmont Owners

Is there anyone out there with a Delmont convertible (around a '67
preferably)? I need some help getting started with mine. I got it two
days ago, and I've put in a new rear curtain, but I need a little help
from someone who already has a finished top. Is there any kind of bar,
or reinforcements in the rear of the top where it snaps down to the
trunk?
Also I was wondering if anyone out there with one already could lead me
to a good source for replacement weatherstripping for my car.

Spruce Schintz
'67 Delmont 88 Convertible

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 11:09:53 -0500 (EST)
From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu>
Subject: Re: StickShift 81-88 G-Body?

On Tue, 27 Oct 1998, Martin Thomas-WLTM07 wrote:

> I am not sure if this has come up, but has anyone converted a 81-88
> Cutlass to 4 or 5 sp?  I know the 5 sp was avail on the 260 in the up to
> 77 models, and I suspect the 4-5 speed was available on the V6 78-80,
> but from 81-88?

There was not a manual available in ANY 81-88 G-body's except for the
Chevy Malibu and El-Camino... at least none that I've ever heard of.

Yes... manual was available in the G-body from 78-80.  In fact my 79's
owner's manual even has a section in it on the manual transmission.  Have
heard that it WAS available with the 260... but have no proof to back it
up... there have definitly been some diesel cars and some V6 cars that
have shown up w/ 4 or 5 speeds.

> Can I modify a automatic console to look factory 5 sp?  Or 6?  Add 4.10
> gears, 6 sp double OD, and have a ball!  Tear up just about anyone off

Sometime recently... within the last few weeks or so... somebody posted
the URL of a page that had pictures of some prototype Cutlass something or
other from '82 or '83 I think... it had a 5-speed that, in the words of
that page "looked like it grew there."



    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
 |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
 |  |  |
 |  |  |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
 | / \ |
 |/   \|     1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
  \   /         (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
   \ /          http://www.442.com/pierce.html
    |        1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass Brougham
		(parts car) (307, 4bbl, TH350, 2.14:1, 90k miles)
	     1980 Rover 3500 SD1
	        (215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/othercars.html
     	     1979 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
		(260 V8, 2bbl, TH350)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/79cutlass.html
	     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
		(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/bonneville.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 09:27:26 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Cam Selection Software

There is a setting called FILES= that you can include in
your Config.sys file that will allow this program to run.
It would not run for me at Files=30, Buffers=30 but it ran
fine (under Windows 95 or DOS) at Files=60, Buffers=60.

If you don't know what a config.sys is or your system
doesn't have one (some Win95 systems don't) then take a bag
of Chips and a 6pack of Coke to your local computer guru and
beg for assistance :)
- --

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@acs.ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.23p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 11:28:59 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: open element air cleaner

In a message dated 98-10-27 09:32:59 EST, you write:

<<since we are on the subject of this, what does everyone think of the
 K&N air filter cover they have out? I saw it once in Summit I believe.
 It replaces the air cleaner top. To me it seems like a good idea since
 the air is being sucked in from the top now. Am I wrong?

  >>
I use both the 14 inch K&N breather top and a 3 inch K&N breather element.
When I run the factory ram air top, the breather top in inverted.  When I put
on the racing top, I run the top right side up.   I have the first design of
the breather top (which has been recalled)  because of it being made of oil
and material, it could catch fire and melt.   So they are making the the
center portion out of a larger piece of plastic to stop this.   This is the
second edition that is being released.  Only problem I have with that is that
it provides less area to allow air into the throat of the carb.

Regards
W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30 race rocket

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 08:28:56 -0800
From: "David Seiver - Account Executive" <DavidS@AnaServe.com>
Subject: tank size

Can anyone tell me the size or capacity of mt gas tank?
1967 cutless f85

David Seiver
Account Representative
AnaServe, Inc. - A Concentric Network Company
Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283 (949) 250-7262 Ext. 283
Fax: 714.250.7265
e-mail: dseiver@cncx.com
Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 12:02:13 EST
From: ChazToone@aol.com
Subject: CONVERTIBLE LOCKS++?

Looking for information on how to replace the convertible top locks (latches?)
on a 1971 Cutlass Supreme.  While I'm on the subject of ragtops, I've noticed
that the molding around the top, where the boot slips under, seems to be
getting loose.  Any suggestions for tightening??

Charlie Toone
ChazToone@aol.com
1971 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 12:17:52 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1965 425 Motor

Hi!

<< I just bought a 1965 425 motor (A block, A heads). >>

Good boy!

<<From the FAQ I know that the cam bank angle is 45 degrees and that it
probably has a different rocker setup (looking for comments positive or
negative about this setup versus later). >>

You have saved much list bandwisth by reading the FAQ!
Thank You!

To be honest, Karl has not examined his own that closely. He hears that "A"
head rocker assemblys are unique & has seen enough bare "A" heads at swap
meets to be fairly certain that they are!
As for the CBA, appropriate stock or HiPo replacement bumpsticks are available
from Joe Mondello (read as $$$$$$$).

<< I also know that it has a forged crank (which is a good thing) that needs
an early model flexplate because of different pattern. Anything else I need to
know. >>

Karl's view on the forged crank is that it is desireable but often overrated.
Like the Toronado oilpans. Yes you can use them, but their benefits are only
enjoyed under EXTREME conditions! Flexplates can be found! Recently I had 2-3
list people offering to sell one when it was possible SOM's was bad.

<< It is a 2BBL motor. I don't know the compression or horsepower. It
supposedly was a 70,000 mile motor that ran well when pulled a few years back.
It has the factory intake (no carb), distributor, fuel pump, flexplate,
waterpump and has wires and plugs. It also has the exhaust manifolds and
crossover(single exhaust).  It is
 missing PS and alternator and the crank pulleys are dented from handling. >>

2V motor but no carb??
So you do have the intake mani?
Factory rating for 386525 A is 310hp with a 2GC, more with 4GC (rare now).
You can bolt on any Olds BB intake and use a more modern Q-Jet.
If you really need, Karl can obtain correct brackets and pulleys for 1965, but
depending on whether you intend a moder PS pump, you may prefer accessory-
correct brackets! BTW SOM's 1965 Alt is rated at 55amps, so a more modern one
is better anyway!

<< I have a couple of possible uses for this motor. 1. I could swap a 4BBL
intake and carb onto it etc and put it in my 83 Cutlass hoping that it was a
good solid running motor. 2. I could rebuild it (taking into account above)
for same car. >>

This depends on how the engine was when you found it. If it had been lying
"fallow" for any serious amount of time, then rebuild it. Actually, a rebuild
is a good idea in any case, as it will give you the opportunity to properly
inspect the motor and learn of any shortcomings. Much as Joe "buy a cracked
455" Padavano learned recently!

<< I could dismantle it, sell heads to someone with 65 442 (are castings and
valve sizes the same) and use the crank, rods and 425 sized pistons on a 455
block for a 425 buildup with 39 degree cam bank angle. Is this the same crank
used for "big" diesel block buildups (425,440 CID)? I paid $150 for the
motor..does that seem reasonable? >>

No diversity among "A" heads.
The 4 4 2 was a 330 the previous year. The leap to 425cid was almost more than
one could handle!
You might spent less money in the long run if you use the 455 block as a 455.
Not sure what is referenced by diesel....
$150 OK unless block is cracked.

<< The same source has several (6-7) 1966 and 1967 Toros, most with motors
that I obviously am lusting over. What is a fair price for the blocks in
nonrunning (but free) and/or frozen up state. How about 69 and 70 Toro motors
in same conditions?    >>

Some Yarde owners are aware of the rarity of some parts. Also, most would
rather sell motors than just the heads. Karl considers up to $200 a good price
for Yarde motors, $300 if the motor is desireable and looks OK, maybe.

Uh.....So.....where is this place???

SOM

&KA
ICQ #20414415
http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 12:17:50 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Enough with the Air Cleaner!

In a message dated 98-10-26 20:01:48 EST, you write:

<< No an open element air cleaner lets you have better airflow.  It does
 not cause you to burn more gas. >>

Alright already!

Before Karl continues to delete these posts outright, it is necessary to clear
up a LOT of myths floating around!

Behold! Your motors are ~air~ engines!

Yup. The A/F ratio is 14.7:1 and you're calling it a gas engine??

Therefore optimized air-flow is the key to engine efficiency.

The air-filter is a potentialrestriction of air-flow to the motor.

So!
Yes, the open-element air cleaners do flow ~some~ more air as the restrictive
pathways of older cleaner shrouds are done away with.

Yes, more air means more fuel is metered by the carburetor, meaning a more
dense air/fuel charge is available in the cylinders, which makes more power,
which is why fuel economy does not suffer.

BUT!
Some HiPo filters flow more air because they are not as effective filters as
your stock paper!

More debris, contaminants and random crap may not make combustion more
efficient (unless you're motoring past leaking methane tanks....) but it'll
sure rack up the wear on he engine!

Karl not going to say K&N is bad for you.
Not enough information for that.

Just want everybody to cease thinking about this matter in false terms.

And please, stop posting about it!
You're driving Karl sane!

Rochester related:

This site provides a very good treatise of Roch carb codes:

http://www2.gdi.net/%7Epadgett/roch.htm

"How to Speak Rochester."
No link from TURCW yet as Karl has not found a valid Email address for him.

SOM

&KA
ICQ #20414415
http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 09:25:22 -0800
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Aligning a door

rmoriarty@blairinc.com wrote:

> door alignment in another way, perhaps a Zen meditation garden ;) . If the

Ohhhhhhhhmmmmmmmmmm.

> actually your fender not being aligned to your door. HA! Need More Coffee!

I think you have had enough! :-)

> the window if the car's frame is broken. You have checked the frame,
> haven't you? Chris? Will someone please get some smelling salts for Mr.
> Sparks! ;)

oooooooohhhhhhhhhhh!  I am feeling weak.........  I don't think my frame
is
broken.  Will check as soon as I recover! :-)

> The assembly manual has dimensions for the spacing around the door. If all

There is an idea.  Does anyone on this list have those specs for a 1968
Sports Coupe?


- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 11:46:10 -0500
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: sources for interior panels, seat covers

What mail order places have the best quality seat covers/ door panels,
and interior rear quarter panels (convertible)?  I've been happy with
Year One, but I have not tried Fusick, Brothers, etc.   Any info will
be appreciated.

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 09:54:07 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Parts

Has anyone ever ordered from the website www.oldsparts.com? Curious if
they are a reliable source.

Thanks,
Del




==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass "S"
1986 Honda Accord DX

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 11:54:05 -0600
From: bloom@mail.gorilla.net
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Restoration Resource - NOT!

Hello all, I called the good ol' boy in Tulsa 'cause I live in the area. At
first he thought I was some
nut trying to sell him an internet service. After we got that straightened
out (:-p) I asked him to
search for a part for me. I'll let you know how it turns out.
BTW, I am a nut..for Oldsmobiles.

At 02:45 AM 10/27/98 EST, you wrote:
>The good old boy in Tulsa is not quite that. One guy with a computer, that
>tracks parts on the net and sells them. At least that is what I figuired out.
>He has the same sources you do.
>
>Randy in Okla
>57 88 J2
>
>
Fred K. (bloom@gorilla.net)
Tulsa,OK. area
'67 442
'67 Cutlass S
'67 Cutlass
		44   44  44   44  222222
		44   44  44   44   2  2
		4444444  4444444   2  2
		     44       44   2  2
		     44       44  222222
	

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 13:06:37 -0500
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: The Goat Guy in OK (Was Re: Oldsmobile Resto...)

Fred K. wrote:
> Hello all, I called the good ol' boy in Tulsa 'cause I live in the area.

<snip>

> I asked him to search for a part for me. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Cuz Randy in Okla wrote:
> >The good old boy in Tulsa is not quite that. One guy with a computer, that
> >tracks parts on the net and sells them. At least that is what I figuired 
out.
> >He has the same sources you do.

FWIW, I bought a dash board for Big Red from "The Goat Framer of OK".  Yeah,
he sounded a little... unstable on the phone, but he knew his inventory --
he told me he had 3 - 4 '67 dashes, all of them decent cores for refurbishing,
and that he could send me one within a week or so for $100.  He was as good
as his word.  The dash arrived, crack-free like he promised, packed nicely in
environment-clogging styrofoam popcorn.

MY take on him was that he was a GTO nut, who dabbled in Oldses.
A nut, but in the good sense.  YMMV.

Tim Churchill  tchurchill@draper.com  OCA #30327  Framingham, MA
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, new a.k.a 'Old Gold'
'98 VW Passat GLS Wagon, a.k.a. 'der Kinderwagen'

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 13:33:12 -0500
From: spiceman@scottsburg.com
Subject: Re: door jamb bolt

OL>You are talking about the bolt that the rear of the Door 'Clamps'
OL>around??

OL>This is a VERY bitter subject to me.  $35 Dollars from local dealership
OL>for a cheap Bolt with a bushing and washer on it!! (Bolt is low-grade,
OL>nothing fancy, either..)

OL>Really, the torx screw doesn't matter, as most people just use
OL>vice-grips on the bolt.  Is the bushing worn out??  Given the prices I
OL>could find, I'm investigating building my own (all that ever wears out
OL>is the bushing..)  I believe with today's plastics, you could get a
OL>tuffer bushing anyways.  The parts are semi-universal and dime-a-dozen
OL>at wreckers..  Let me know what you find in aftermarket prices!

OL>BTW, without even seeing it, you have a NICE car!

OL>Eric
OL>http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/biggreen.shtml

OL>JonKrisInc@aol.com wrote:
OL>>
OL>> I have been hearing this incessent squeaking noise coming from (what I tho
OL>> was) my rear window. After dismantling and retightening everything, I real
OL>> it was the door jamb bolt. The torx screw has been stripped and I was
OL>> wondering if  I can replace the bolt. Are they readily available? Can they
OL>> bought new?  does anyone have one I could buy? Much obliged.
OL>> Bruce
OL>> 75 Delta 88 conv.
BY THE WAY I BOUGHT 82 CUTLASS WITH 403 GOING TO BUILD THIS ENGINE
INSTEAD OF 350 , CAR ALSO CAME WITH HEADERS
cott County Internet Access
 http://www.scottsburg.com
The Computer Age Company Inc.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 13:45:35 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70-72 442 Black Dash Pad

In a message dated 10/26/98 2:48:51 PM EST, bcam@vel.net writes:

<< I found this item listed at eBay and thought somebody might be in need of
one, especially at $40. You can see this at http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-
cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=37439102 >>

Bruce,
any ideas where to get a dash for my car?
tia
Bruce
75 Delta 88conv.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 00:56:48 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Aligning a door

Are you aligning it because it doesn't close correctly??

IF it doesn't close correctly, chances are it's time to get that weld
off and usually lift the rear of the door.  Before doing this, take a
look at the hat-washers and pins in the hinges.  If they're not too
good, spend $6.00 and get new ones, remove the hinges (one at a time),
with jack to suppor door on, then rebuild each hinge (requires Vice
usually, though not required).  There's a trick to getting the spring
back in on the sprung-hinge as well.

If the door does close correctly, adjust the fender, leave the door
alone (Fender's move way easier than doors, and don't have to close
correctly..)

On the bright side, a 68 442 Door weighs a Lot less then a 75 Cutlass
(BTW, can anyone give me an exact figure, or do I have to try and weigh
the one I have in my yard, I've alway's wanted to know!!!!)

I'd guess a 75 Cutlass door at 2-3 hundred lbs???

Eric
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/cut_bl.shtml <-- Door closes now.


Chris Sparks wrote:
>
> How does one go about aligning a door (68 442).  I know that the hinges
> have
> bolts holding them in, however, mine seem to be tack-welded.  Is this
> normal?
> How in the world do I adjust the door without unwelding the
> tack-welding?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 11:30:20 -0800
From: "David Seiver - Account Executive" <DavidS@AnaServe.com>
Subject: 67 f85

Does ANYONE have a 67 f85 and know how large the GAS TANK IS??????
PLEASE?

David Seiver
Account Representative
AnaServe, Inc. - A Concentric Network Company
Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283 (949) 250-7262 Ext. 283
Fax: 714.250.7265
e-mail: dseiver@cncx.com
Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 11:38:23 -0800
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Aligning a door

Eric wrote:

> Are you aligning it because it doesn't close correctly??

No.  The door shuts beautifully on the driver's side, not so great on
passenger side.  It has mainly to do with the W/S (framed door) mating
up to the door sill.  I think the door could be a little bit higher so
the W/S has more surface area of contact with the sill.

> If the door does close correctly, adjust the fender, leave the door
> alone (Fender's move way easier than doors, and don't have to close
> correctly..)

Would this effort be tough?  The weight of the door and the fenders
considered.

> I'd guess a 75 Cutlass door at 2-3 hundred lbs???

Woah!  That is a lot of weight for a door.

Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 11:40:41 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: tank size

David Seiver - Account Executive wrote:
>
> Can anyone tell me the size or capacity of mt gas tank?
> 1967 cutless f85


20 US gallons.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 14:14:25 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: open element air cleaner

Mike,
You are correct, old 413 Mopar( Sorry) had air filters, when racing you
used only the bottom of the filter assy, looked like an inverted cake
plate, directed air into carb more smoothly, they are all different. All
rules have an exception, well put. Thanks for the conversations, all of
you.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

Mike wrote
> A well designed air cleaner will smooth and straighten out the flow of
> air into the carb and let it flow more air due to less turbulence.  If
you
> check out Barry Grant's carbs thier full race ones have fully milled
> transitions into the venturi's which do the same thing without the air
> cleaner.  K&N has a stub stack that is supposed to do the same thing
> but you also have to realize that different carbs have different flow
> characteristics and will react differently to the same air cleaner.  But,
> yes, a motor can make more power with a an air cleaner than without
> but that doesn't mean that it holds true to every situation/carb.  I also
> remember seeing a test that a clutch fan makes more power than no
> fan at all but also they only tested that on one motor.  Different
engines
> like different things and in the quest for more power there are few rules
> that don't have exceptions.
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 14:15:28 -0600
From: "Austin Schroeger" <austin@lsol.net>
Subject: Re: open element air cleaner

FWIW: my uncle uses a cut off funnel end on the carb stem to direct the air
more quickly into the car on his  455 in his 83 Hurst/Olds

Just thought I'd share

Austin J. Schroeger
Manitowoc, Wisconsin
http://www.g-body.org / http://members.lsol.net/austin
austin@g-body.org / austin@lsol.net
Home ICQ: 16380613 / Work ICQ: 7328959
1984 Monte Carlo SS (400+ HP / 406CI)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>; oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, October 27, 1998 3:14 PM
Subject: Re: open element air cleaner


>Mike,
>You are correct, old 413 Mopar( Sorry) had air filters, when racing you
>used only the bottom of the filter assy, looked like an inverted cake
>plate, directed air into carb more smoothly, they are all different. All
>rules have an exception, well put. Thanks for the conversations, all of
>you.
>Lou Biggs
>lbiggs@intertek.net
>
>Mike wrote
>> A well designed air cleaner will smooth and straighten out the flow of
>> air into the carb and let it flow more air due to less turbulence.  If
>you
>> check out Barry Grant's carbs thier full race ones have fully milled
>> transitions into the venturi's which do the same thing without the air
>> cleaner.  K&N has a stub stack that is supposed to do the same thing
>> but you also have to realize that different carbs have different flow
>> characteristics and will react differently to the same air cleaner.  But,
>> yes, a motor can make more power with a an air cleaner than without
>> but that doesn't mean that it holds true to every situation/carb.  I also
>> remember seeing a test that a clutch fan makes more power than no
>> fan at all but also they only tested that on one motor.  Different
>engines
>> like different things and in the quest for more power there are few rules
>> that don't have exceptions.
>>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 15:24:05 -0500
From: "James E. Brady III" <James.E.Brady.1@gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Open Element Air Cleaner

Del & Chris,
	Here is the bottom line on the open air element.  When converting from 
a
closed (stock) to open element you are trying to unobstruct or increase
airflow.  With more air you will need more fuel to maintain the air/fuel
ratio.  When you implement the open element you will need to make a
provision for the hose from the valve cover to the air cleaner.  I believe
the only option is what I did and that is an open vavle breather.  Good Luck.

Jim Brady


I am running a 14" Edelbrock open air cleaner on my 69 Cutlass. I have
never tried the closed one. The car came with this air cleaner. I
guess that I haven't really noticed any fuel economy problems. But, as
for my case, I am having the problem of the carb running lean. I have
the Edelbrock Performer cam and intake on it. I had a local speed shop
see if they could adjust the carb and he said the only thing I could
really do is put bigger jets in. So in my case, I am running too lean.
If this is due to the air cleaner, I dunno, but I just wanted to add
my 2 cents in.

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass "S"
1986 Honda Accord DX

&

I know that if you put on an open air cleaner, and do not block the vacuum
that goes to the original filter, the car will backfire.......I forgot,
pluged the connection and it has worked fine for the last two years.

Chris Brown
72 Cutlass Supreme
- - -->From: Thomas P. Smith <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>

1973 Delta 88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 15:23:37 -0500
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 67 f85

Dave

        They are 20 gallons.

Jim Chermack

At 02:30 PM 10/27/98 , you wrote:
>Does ANYONE have a 67 f85 and know how large the GAS TANK IS??????
>PLEASE?
>
>David Seiver
>Account Representative
>AnaServe, Inc. - A Concentric Network Company
>Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283 (949) 250-7262 Ext. 283
>Fax: 714.250.7265
>e-mail: dseiver@cncx.com
>Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 15:34:40 -0500
From: "James E. Brady III" <James.E.Brady.1@gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Supertrapp's

Trond,
	You beat me to it!  I have them on my Chevy.  The only time I would
recommend these is if you have clearance problems like I had because they
are loud.  The look really mean too!  I have had many people ask what the
heck they are and when I say mufflers they are actually surprized!  I guess
because they are at the end of the tailpipe.  They are adjustable-  loud
and deafening!  Just kidding.  They are loud and very free flowing.

Jim Brady

	

From: "Trond Pedersen" <trondped@c2i.net>
 > Leter (no offense to Olds owners who have Flowmasters on their cars ( AS
> LONG AS THE MOTOR IS AN OLDS MOTOR) if not then you must be burned at the


I use supertrapp on my 69 f85
they look super on the car :-)
they have the deep sound :-))
AND
they are adjustable :-))) (for the tec.pepole who argue aboute the
noise(?))

1973 Delta 88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 14:43:53 -0600
From: Shang <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Restoration Resource - NOT!

CCRR12@aol.com wrote:
>
> The good old boy in Tulsa is not quite that. One guy with a computer, that
> tracks parts on the net and sells them. At least that is what I figuired out.
> He has the same sources you do.
>
> Randy in Okla
> 57 88 J2


This is good info to have - thanks for the response. We need to weed out
all the deadwood suppliers.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 15:46:36 EST
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Parts

Del-
Brother's Automotive. A reliable source.
Peter

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 15:51:55 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Aligning a door

IF it doesn't close correctly, chances are it's time to get that weld
off and usually lift the rear of the door.
_________

OK, the hinges for a 64-72 A-body are not welded.  There are three bolts on
each half of the hinge, which thread into a caged nutplate which "floats"
on the backside of the mating panel (either the A-pilar or the front edge
of the door).  This is the mechanism that allows adjustment in the door
location.  Any welds on the hinges on Chris's 68 would have been put there
by someone other than the factory, and the only reason I can see for this
is if one of the nutplates were stripped out.  This would seem to indicate
that the car had seen some hard times somewhere in the past.

A more likely scenario is that Chris is seeing some body sealer or a paint
run that looks like a weld.  I seriously doubt that the hinge is welded.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 15:02:06 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: tank size

David,
think the 67 442 is 18 gal. never ran it empty and filled it. if it's in
the book i'll let you know.
Lou

- ----------
> From: David Seiver - Account Executive <DavidS@AnaServe.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: tank size
> Date: Tuesday, October 27, 1998 10:28 AM
>
> Can anyone tell me the size or capacity of mt gas tank?
> 1967 cutless f85
>
> David Seiver
> Account Representative
> AnaServe, Inc. - A Concentric Network Company
> Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283 (949) 250-7262 Ext. 283
> Fax: 714.250.7265
> e-mail: dseiver@cncx.com
> Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 15:20:25 -0600
From: "Austin Schroeger" <austin@lsol.net>
Subject: Classifieds section on www.g-body.org

I'd just like to encourage all of you to take a look at the classifieds
section of http://www.g-body.org

We have sections aimed directly at Oldsmobile parts and vehicles, and well
as many other areas of interest.  You ad will run 30 days and is 100% free.

Austin J. Schroeger
Manitowoc, Wisconsin
http://www.g-body.org / http://members.lsol.net/austin
austin@g-body.org / austin@lsol.net
Home ICQ: 16380613 / Work ICQ: 7328959
1984 Monte Carlo SS (400+ HP / 406CI)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 15:33:40 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: FLOW MASTER MUFFLERS

the Walker Dynomax race magnum is a straight through design it works
extremely well and as my opinion is fairly biased against the Flowmaster
there is this the walkers are cheaper and the company has been doing this
sort of thing since before many of us were born I think they have a pretty
good rep and a good warranty and personal experience tells me that my car
ran a quicker time with the walker mufflers on as opposed to open exhaust
with 18 inch collector extensions and I could still hear myself think
however with nothing else changed flowmasters didnt fair as well once caveat
emptor is in effect
the welded mufflers are fairly simple boxes with baffles or a louvered core
the flowmaster has been around a while and I have used them didnt like the
sound they didnt perform as expected the walkers performed much better than
expected if you would like a set write back and maybe we can get you set up
they are available from jegs and just about every auto parts store in the
country can get them I personally get them wholesale from a supplier in the
local area(relative works there) so with this information in hand think
about it look up some of the articals from old hotrod and carcraft magazines
on the flows in the library they are sometimes a good resource just dont
mistake the walker muffler for a glasspack or a turbo  it is niether
they are good but it is in the end your decision...........KK
>>Can you tell me exactly which welder muffler it is your speaking about.
>I
>>just might install those instead of flow masters. You say there better
>than
>>flow masters. Can you please describe in more just why there better
>than
>>flow masters????
>>
>>
>>                                    THANKS SO MUCH
>>
>>                                    FRANK
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
>>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>>Date: Monday, October 26, 1998 11:18 AM
>>Subject: Re: FLOW MASTER MUFFLERS
>>
>>
>>>Flow master makes them they in and of themselves do not increase
>>performance
>>>they do however have less back pressure allowing your engine to vent
>its
>>>waste gasses in a more expeditiouus manner Walker makes a welded
>muffler
>>>(that is the term for these boxes) called a race magnum that works and
>>>sounds better than a flowmaster......KK

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1575
*********************************
