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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1533


oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, October 6 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1533



[none]
Air Box
Re: Anyone have a console FS?
Paging Chris...Was  (Re: LOOKING FOR "SHAWN22?"WTB G-BODY DOORS)
Re: Air Box
Re: Air Box
Re: Still overheating, next step, a kia
RE: Car Alarms
Re: Anyone have a console FS?
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1532
Re: My Cutlasss hates me
Trunk molding
Re: Still overheating, next step, a kia
Re: Still overheating, next step, a kia
Re: Synthetic Oil and improved mpg
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1532
Rally Pack -- definition wanted
Re: Cliff's Classics
Re: '70 Console/Shifter different than '72?
Local Lions Club Show
Pace Car Models
Re: STOLEN
Re: EGR Valve
Re: engine is smoking bad pleas hlp!!
Re: under hood color
Re: Rally Pack -- definition wanted
G-Body Cruise Control (long)
Re: Still Overheating, next step, Agh
Re: '69 442 parts car
Re: Non-Olds: Speaking of synthetic...
Re: STOLEN
thick oil in bad motor?
Re: STOLEN
Re: Valve Cover Gasket follow up
Edelbrock Heads - Anyone try them ?
Re: Anyone have a console FS?
Re: under hood color
Re: under hood color
Re: Rally Pack -- definition wanted
Re: thick oil in bad motor?
Ralph Braun's Father
Fwd: My DAD:
Re: Synthetic Oil and improved mpg
Re: Rally Pack -- definition wanted
RTFM...
Re: Rally Pack -- definition wanted
Re: Edelbrock Heads - Anyone try them ?
Re: Edelbrock Heads - Anyone try them ?
Mirrors in my Cutlass "S"
Re:  WTB G-BODY DOORS.
your web site
Re:  Re: Cutlass GT?
Re:  G-Body Cruise Control (long)
Re:  Re: Cutlass GT?
concerning your site
Re: G-Body Cruise Control (long)
83 Cutlass Delay Wipers
H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)
Re: G-Body Cruise Control (long)
Re: G-Body Cruise Control (long)
Cruise control
Ralph Braun's Father (fwd)
442 For Sale (fwd)
Re: Still overheating, next step, a kia
RE: Still overheating, next step, a kia

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 22:46:32 -0500
From: David Harms <dph0569@flash.net>
Subject: [none]

unsubscribe dph0569@flash.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 18:28:51 EDT
From: NjOlds@aol.com
Subject: Air Box

Are the air boxes in a 442 or Hurst Olds. ( G-Body ) dual inlet?  If so can
anyone send me pictures of one.  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 18:30:04 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Anyone have a console FS?

> Anyone have a black auto console ('70 - '72) that's not all broken to pieces
> that they want to sell for $50 or so?  I'm tired of looking at the broken up
> POS that I was sold last year.  I want one that's not cracked or broken or
> rotten.  I really don't even care if it's duck-crap green - I can paint it.
> I just want one that's solid.

Ya know Blaine, I was thinking that very same thing myself when I picked
up my UPS package today.  I got what I THOUGHT was going to be a decent
gray console for my 85, only to find out that it was a worse POS than
the one I got.  It was painted an almond color??? One small crack at the
side bottom he says, otherwise perfect.  Has console cover too.
WRONG.  No lid and was busted in about 3 pieces.  Fuming?  No.  Lied to?
Wasted my money?  Ya.  Don't EVER do business with this guy. Ryan
McKennna.  He wouldn't know a gray console if it fell on him.  I'd sure
hate to see what HE considers junk.  I just need the console upper
plastic section where the shift plate/ashtray and glovebox are.  Anyone
got one in decent shape?  i.e. no cracks?

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 18:33:08 -0400
From: Shawn <shawno22@erols.com>
Subject: Paging Chris...Was  (Re: LOOKING FOR "SHAWN22?"WTB G-BODY DOORS)

Chris,

Yes, I am still looking...Please contact me privately at shawno22@erols.com
to discuss prices...

Thanks for remembering me...

Shawn

At 08:23 AM 10/5/98 -0400, you wrote:
>My computer crashed and lost your address have a price on a solid set of G-
>body doors, let me know if you are still looking, Thanks Chris
>
Software Support
Computer Sales & Service For Less
Shawn McCollum
(609) 764-6572
shawno22@erols.com
"Why Pay More For Your Computer Needs?"
"Cyberspace & You Don't Have To Be Worlds Away"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 18:34:34 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Air Box

NjOlds@aol.com wrote:
>
> Are the air boxes in a 442 or Hurst Olds. ( G-Body ) dual inlet?  If so can
> anyone send me pictures of one.  Thanks.


What are "air boxes" on a G-body?  I only know of that reference to the
underhood air box for the W-30/31 hoods from 70-72.  Do you mean the air
cleaner?  It has dual inlets, but the driver's side only has an air hose
running from the tip to in between the battery and radiator.  The stubby
side just sits there sucking air from around the A/C evaporator housing.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 18:41:15 EDT
From: NjOlds@aol.com
Subject: Re: Air Box

Yup, I meant then air cleaner.Sorry!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 18:43:05 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Still overheating, next step, a kia

Ray Costanzo wrote:

> Still running hot.

        Ray,

        Perhaps this is just a stab in the dark, but exhaust gases leaking
into the cooling jacket can cause chronic, difficult-to-diagnose, overheating
problems.  How can this happen?  Cracked block, cracked heads, or a leaking
head gasket.  It may even be possible for exhaust from the heat crossover in
your intake manifold to leak into the coolant crossover in the manifold.
However, since the two are separated by a few inches, I'd think that would be
a REALLY long shot.

        Not trying to be an alarmist, just trying to think outside the box.

> And if that doesn't help, I'm going to buy a kIA.

        Speaking of thinking outside of boxes, never think inside THAT one!

        Thomas P. Smith
        1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 19:11:04 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Car Alarms

<Snip>

Uh, that would be me.

If you have a four-spoke wheel (as I did), you simply need to inscrew it
(three screws for the horn ring and six for the wheel).  I did this when I
was going to school in Boston.

<A>

Joe, At least now they have a quick release you can install on custom
wheels. Sure beats unscrewing several bolts. To bad it wasn't around when
you needed it...

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
gjcouse@francomm.com
  
1986 Custom Cutlass Brougham = "Quincy"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 19:08:20 EDT
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: Anyone have a console FS?

I know how you feel Mike, Will keep a eye open for one. Chris

Chris Sommerville
69 442SC
70 442HC
70 W31
AND LOTS OF PARTS FOR SALE!!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 15:55:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: jalkara <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1532

  a fellow olds enthusiast needs dave smith's area code and number in
quest of bbo efi.  please mail me privately

tia


47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 18:29:25 -0700
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: My Cutlasss hates me

- -----Original Message-----
From: Tracy H. Shires <twodogs@ou.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, October 05, 1998 5:10 AM
Subject: Re: My Cutlasss hates me



>First cranked it up.., bent two exhaust valves.. Ripped it off and had it
redone.., relashed everything loose.., bent another exhaust valve on the
other side 10 miles later. That is where I stand right now...
>
>I think my problems stem from the performer rpm valves - which are longer
than stock.

With your 68 350, I assume you have no. 5 heads. I used the Edelbrock RPM
cam and their lifters, springs and locks. The rockers I used were Comp Cams
Magnums. The machine shop wanted to assemble the heads after machining for
larger valves "as is" without accounting for the length difference of the
installed height caused by the shallow spring seats on the #5 and earlier
heads. I got them to machine the spring seats .090" deeper to get the
correct installed height. I'm sure if they had assembled them with the
increased preload on those double springs, I would have had a lot of bent
valves too. Most machine shops are used to machining C*vy heads and probably
aren't too concerned about the differences with Olds. Unless you have a lot
of confidence in your machine shop, always check the key dimensions
yourself.
Hope this helps.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 19:36:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: ttjbmm@webtv.net (todd thomas)
Subject: Trunk molding

Would anyone on the list know where I could find a good a set of chrome
molding for the bottom edge of the trunk lid? I am not even sure if the
car is suppost to have them or not. thanks in advance
Todd Thomas
1972w30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 19:53:42 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Still overheating, next step, a kia

Ray Costanzo wrote:

>  and get new hoses, although that probably won't help anyway.

        Ray,

        Another idea.  Have you checked to see if your lower radiator hose is
cavitating (being sucked flat, like when you try to drink a shake from a
flimsy straw)?  Old or weak hoses can do this.  If it is, it can nearly cut
off the coolant flow through the system.  Definitely do all the hoses.

        Keep fightin' the good fight!

        Thomas P. Smith
        1971 Cutass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 17:15:35 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Still overheating, next step, a kia

I ran a few degrees cooler after I switched to dual exhaust.
That cross over pipe is real clost the oil pan.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 20:07:55 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil and improved mpg

Johnny Gage wrote:

> is there any benefit to this, versus say, using regular oil only
> or synthetic only??

        A couple of years ago when I was checking into going synthetic, I
noticed Valvoline was the only manufacturer that cautioned on the label about
pre-1980 cars using it.  When I checked with Valvoline about this, I was told
the usage of synthetic in a car with old gaskets could contribute to leakage.
However, if I replaced all gaskets (read: engine rebuild) I would be okay.
Benefits? It kicks butt when it comes to resisting thermal breakdown.  However,
I'd think if you kept your oil and filter changed and your car maintained this
shouldn't be a problem, anyway.  I can't say too much about fuel savings.  I
never switched.  Increased MPG seems reasonable, but a few miles with the
secondaries open would quickly take care of that!

        Thomas P. Smith
        1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 19:27:14 +0000
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs@flash.net>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1532

Still overheating

Have you tried running without the thermostat?  If you still over heat
the radiator is  probably too small. You can try a high flow water pump,
this helps a little.

I living with this similar problem on all my cars. I found the fan
clutch to be the problem. I have replaced it with a heavy duty clutch
from 84 olds 98.  They are expensive, $70, but the only one I found that
truely cylcles during normal operation.  You can actually here the fan
cutting in an out.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 20:28:18 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Rally Pack -- definition wanted

Confused about this term. I'd really like to have a tach in my 71 4-4-2, so
I'm checking out my options.  What is a rally pack?  Is it the all-in-one
gauge "system" shown in the YearOne electrical section (clock,tach,
gen,temp,oil) or is it a couple of optional gauges? I currently have the non-
working clock, speedo, and idiot light combo. (The car is generally light on
options). Any info appreciated: is this another one of those nearly impossible
to find items? Any sources? Approx.cost I should expect? Difficulty to
install? etc....
Thanks again.
Scott

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 19:47:20 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: Cliff's Classics

Yea!  all us 67 guys are waiting with baited breath on how to contact mr
Cliff!

Patton wrote:
>
> Good morning list .........
>
>                     I just received some parts from Cliff's Classics for my
> 67'. He runs a class operation. Everything
> I received was as advertised - no disappointments - care was taken in the
> packaging as well as in removal
> from the donor vehicle. It was a welcome relief on a weekend when my teams
> were all outscored and outplayed badly...........
>
> Just my thoughts.....
> The General

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 20:39:42 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: '70 Console/Shifter different than '72?

B. Sanders wrote:
>
> Ok Folks.  Is the '70 auto console and shifter different than the '71 - '72
> auto console & shifter?  The reason I ask is I have the rear mounting
> bracket for a '71 - '72 console, and it DOES NOT work with my  '70 Console.
> This '70 console appears to need a bracket that is about 5 1/2" long and
> that sits about 1 3/8" off the floorpan tunnel.  Am I smokin' dope, or is
> there really a difference?  If anyone has a '70 console & shifter and a
> '71 - '72 console/shifter, will you please compare them and see if there is
> any difference?
>
> Thanks,
> Blaine

Is it possible that your '70 console might be from a full-size car?
Both the Toronado and the 88 Royale used floor consoles with shifter in
'70.  Maybe you've got one of those.  I'd think the Toronado console
would have to be drastically different due to the flat floor, but the
Royale console might be very similar to a Cutlass console.  According to
the pictures in the '70 Product Selling Information manual they are all
very similar.

Paul
- --
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 20:36:48 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Local Lions Club Show

New to the hobby (obsession??) so my wife and I are into the shows. Yesterday,
in Webster, MA the local Lions put on a show. 'Had to publicly acknowledge the
work of a new acquaintance, John, who entered the most beautiful 71 (any year
actually) W-30 I could ever hope to see. This car was nearly flawless bumper
to bumper. Viking/Pearl/White vinyl top....gorgeous!!  Congrats John, who took
home a second place only because of what must have been a Che*y fan as a
judge. (First went to a similarly outstanding SS). New England chapter OCA
members must know this guy. Congrats again, John, nice goin' and good luck in
the future!
Scott & Carol

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 20:16:17 -0700
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Pace Car Models

Checked out the "Speedyway" store at Indianapolis Airport this morning and
they had a lot of neat miniatures. There was a '77 Delta pacecar and a '75
Buick Regal pace car both packaged with the indy winners of the same years.
They were both Johnny Lighning issues. The Delta was T-topped and the Buick
was in the "Spirit" colors. Trevor Lee, are you still out there? There was
also an Aurora as well as Brickyard 400 pacecars. I didn't see the 442s and
72 Hurst that were there last time. Cool store. Lots of Indy 500 and
Brickyard 400 paraphenalia.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 19:03:21 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: STOLEN

>Will whoever stole it actuallly ever be able to firgure out that it's a
>2x4 intake for an OLDS

Watch him try to sell it to a Chevy guy saying "with some minor mods, it
would fit.  After all, it is a GM, it's all the same".  I had a guy try to
sell me some MAGS that were riped off from a 6-bolt ford truck or something,
saying that it will absolutley fit.   OKAY.  Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 22:10:54 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: EGR Valve

> be sure you get a Delco EGR valve if you do replace it!  The
>extra money spent will more than make up for the frustration if you buy an
off-brand.

I saw the el-cheapo $35 jobber at Parts America and wasn't impressed. Looked
like a POS.

> I took the hit at the Olds dealer and bought Delco's $105 EGR valve and
slapped
>it on and the car ran BEAUTIFULLY.


Damn. <choke, gag> They were only $60 the last time I had to get one from
GM. But that was....ummm....lessee.....1987? <sigh>

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 22:18:00 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: engine is smoking bad pleas hlp!!

>when ever i drive my cutlass for more than 5-10 minutes and I stop or shut
it
>off smoke starts pouring out of my engine, basically when the engine gets
hot.
>I am going to replace the valve cover gaskets to see if that does anything,


Can't be any more certain of the source? How about cleaning the motor really
well first, then driving a few miles and narrowing in on where it's leaking
from? Though the valve covers are probly the best bet.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 98 22:17:54 EDT
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: under hood color

A
>Now this beauty has to go in an engine compartment which should be fresh
>painted too I think. I know it is supposed to be something like
>"half-glossy" black... Can anyone describe that? Is it glossy at all? Is
>there a place where I can order the original paint in spray cans? Or is
>ther a close to original brand at the hardware store??? I only found
>glossy or dull color so far.

   Rustoleum has a satin black in spray cans that I have used numerous times
and always with great results. It will look original for the purpose you are
looking for.  Most major home or hardware stores carry it for approximately
$3-$4 per can.  You'll need less than 3 cans to double coat the complete
underside of the hood providing you are working with a clean surface that is
in an ambient temperature between 55 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit.  Instead of
spraying from a 10-12" distance as is stated on the can use a distance of
6-8" with a clean and steady sweeping motion. Allow the first coat to tack
20 to 30 minutes before applying the secound coat.

  Glenn
  '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 20:57:10 -0500
From: "John Kreitzer" <john.kreitzer@gte.net>
Subject: Re: Rally Pack -- definition wanted

The rally pack refers to the "tic toc tac" which is a tach on the outside
with the clock on the inside, and then the gauge package would be in place
of your idiot lights. I just saw a working set at the recent local car show,
a place called "The Parts Place" had them, $600.00 - Ouch!!.  They are not
cheap by any stretch of the imagination. Anyway, thats my $.02.

John
72 Hurst/Olds - Returning from it's year long stay at the Body Shop this
weekend. YEAH!!!!!!!!!

- -----Original Message-----
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com <CPEARLPARK@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, October 05, 1998 7:31 PM
Subject: Rally Pack -- definition wanted


>Confused about this term. I'd really like to have a tach in my 71 4-4-2, so
>I'm checking out my options.  What is a rally pack?  Is it the all-in-one
>gauge "system" shown in the YearOne electrical section (clock,tach,
>gen,temp,oil) or is it a couple of optional gauges? I currently have the
non-
>working clock, speedo, and idiot light combo. (The car is generally light
on
>options). Any info appreciated: is this another one of those nearly
impossible
>to find items? Any sources? Approx.cost I should expect? Difficulty to
>install? etc....
>Thanks again.
>Scott
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 22:30:35 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: G-Body Cruise Control (long)

G-Body owners, my cruise control system has been acting up since I owned the
car, with sharp increases and decreases in throttle position when it's
activated.  It DOES rub on the intake manifold, that might be causing the
problem...a search on www.nhtsa.dot.gov uncovered the following recall: A SMALL
NYLON BUSHING IN THE CRUISE CONTROL SERVO BAIL MAY SLIP OUT OF PLACE, CAUSING
INTERMITTENT AND UNEXPECTED INCREASES IN ENGINE SPEED OR DIESELING (ENGINE RUN
ON WITH IGNITION OFF). SERVO ROD ASSEMBLY COULD CATCH ON ENGINE COMPONENTS
ANDRESULT IN A STUCK THROTTLE WITH POTENTIAL FOR A VEHICLE CRASH. INSTALL A NEW
BUSHING IN CRUISE CONTROL SERVO BAIL.

Has anyone performed this fix on their car, or taken the car in for this type 
of
service?  Easy to fix?

Thanks once again...

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 22:50:43 -0400
From: "DENNEY KEYS" <dkeys@pop700.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Still Overheating, next step, Agh

Ray,

You should seriously look at other things than the cooling system at this
time.  Most particularly I would examine whether you have an intake manifold
leak, or if your carb is running lean.   In either case it can cause a very
lean mixture condition and not only result in high coolant temps, but can
cause other problems as well.

My 2 cents.
Best of luck,
Denney

Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 06:11:48 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Still overheating, next step, a kia
Well, I have now replaced the water pump, the thermostat, the radiator,
the fan clutch, and have flushed the system four thousand times.  Still
running hot.  I'm going to replace the fan, but I *know* that won't help.
I'm going to change the water pump again for the hell of it, and get new
hoses, although that probably won't help anyway.  And if that doesn't
help, I'm going to buy a kIA.  probably a nice new green sephia with
orange splash graphics.
Any suggestions?
Suicidally yours
Ray Costanzo
87 409degree Cutlass Supreme Heat.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 22:13:41 +0300
From: john schiffman <joschiff@flash.net>
Subject: Re: '69 442 parts car

I am thinking of changing out my stock rear end to a posi.  Do you have
one and do you think I should do the switch; what other problems will I
have?

Thanks

John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 22:04:42 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds: Speaking of synthetic...

Yes I heard of that product, it has been around for awhile. It has
dyno-proven horsepower. The 8 hp they claimed is at the rear tires, which
can amount to about to 20horsepower at the crank. Look at it this way.  The
thicker the weight of the oil the more power it robbs. 20w-50 takes away
more hp/fuel economy than would 5w30 would. So if this oil is lightweight
enough it can gain horsepower.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
> To: 'Olds List' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Non-Olds: Speaking of synthetic...
> Date: Monday, October 05, 1998 9:27 AM
>
> Was watching MotorTrend TV yesterday and saw some purple stuff that added
a claimed 8 horsepower in
> an LT-1 Corvette.  8 horse?????  That's a sizeable jump...but so is the
price of this purple stuff
> over regular oil--almost 5 bucks a quart!
>
> Anyone heard of this stuff?
>
> Jason Adcock
> Blacksburg, VA
> ICQ: 5860857
> E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
> Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 22:04:35 -0500
From: "Paul D. Pate" <rocket455@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: STOLEN

I just saw one of these at Houston Raceway Park, Baytown Texas.  It had
everything you mentioned minus the air cleaner.  He wanted $350 for the set.
I did not get his name.


>Stolen 10/2/98 from SW Ohio - Offenhauser low-rise 2x4bbl BB Olds intake<


Paul Pate

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 23:13:25 -0400
From: Jim Olson <jolson@remcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: thick oil in bad motor?

Ok, here's a real stupid question, and I'd never do this to my GMs, but
I have a Ford with very weak oil pressure. Can I put something in it to
get me by until I get another motor? Like thick oil?

Jim...

1983 Olds powered Malibu wagon

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 16:41:22 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: STOLEN

Reminds me of a thief whom stole the carborator and the air cleaner off my
69 W-31 a few years back at an amusement park.........kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ray Costanzo <rocket409@juno.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, October 05, 1998 2:50 PM
Subject: Re: STOLEN


>Will whoever stole it actuallly ever be able to firgure out that it's a
>2x4 intake for an OLDS?!
>
>Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
>                        Bucks County, PA
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 16:38:10 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Valve Cover Gasket follow up

I generally use silicone on the valve cover side of the gasket only this
allows the removal and reinstall necessary during an initial fireup (usually
not necessary on Olds but mandatory on Ch*vy) this goes for oilpans too
never had a leaker in about 15 years of doing things this way .......kk
P.S. remembering the rear main seal thread     I use silicone there too and
never had a problem also there is no need to use the ford rear main seals
anymore Fel-Pro sells them for Olds engines.....kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Igor T. '81 455DRB <igor455@home.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, October 05, 1998 10:57 AM
Subject: Re: Valve Cover Gasket follow up


>My surface was totally clean and all but the oil pan gasket sealed
>beautiful.  I simply recomeded silicon because I found it easier to live
>with especially if you pop the valvecovers once or twice.  The only down of
>silicon I experienced is that it is a pain in the butt to clean the old
>silicon prior to reinstall.  Igor.
>
>>My suggestion for any gasket sealing is to have a clean surface free of
any
>>debris, and then remove any oils/grease from the mating surfaces with
brake
>>cleaner or lacquer thinner.  Then use Fel-Pro's "High-Tack" or "Avation
>>Sealant".  The gaskets by themselves should seal the mating parts, you
>>shouldn't have to goop them up with silicone.
>>
>>Steve Reed
>>'70 4-4-2 Ragtop
>>Austin, TX
>>
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 23:20:22 -0400
From: Rich Inacker <rinacker@voicenet.com>
Subject: Edelbrock Heads - Anyone try them ?

Now that it appears the much-anticipated Edelbrock Aluminum Olds heads are
available, has anyone actually tried a set ? If so, what did you think of
them in terms of fit, finish and (most importantly :-) performance ?

Rich
- -----
rinacker@voicenet.com (Rich Inacker)
http://www.voicenet.com/~rinacker

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 20:11:26 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Anyone have a console FS?

Have one, missing the lock and liner. also the top plate was ruined by a
previous owner with some kind of glue but I do have it there is a small
crack somewhere I think but if you want it it will be super cheap
almost fr** or just pay the shipping maybe could send you some pics
it is black let me know privately maybe work out a trade if you have
anything to trade (need 69 442 parts minor ones)....kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com <SOMMERVLLE@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, October 05, 1998 4:15 PM
Subject: Re: Anyone have a console FS?


>I know how you feel Mike, Will keep a eye open for one. Chris
>
>Chris Sommerville
>69 442SC
>70 442HC
>70 W31
>AND LOTS OF PARTS FOR SALE!!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 23:35:46 EDT
From: DEOVIVERE@aol.com
Subject: Re: under hood color

In a message dated 98-10-05 13:39:40 EDT, you write:

<< Now this beauty has to go in an engine compartment which should be fresh
 painted too I think. I know it is supposed to be something like
 "half-glossy" black... Can anyone describe that? Is it glossy at all? Is
 there a place where I can order the original paint in spray cans? Or is
 ther a close to original brand at the hardware store??? I only found
 glossy or dull color so far. >>


Hi George -

You'll want to call Eastwood and get their catalogue.  They have most
everything you'll need, even metallic plate look-alike spray paint.  For
firewall, core support, exposed frame, etc you'll want their semi-gloss
chassis black.  For radiator, upper control arms and upper core support you'll
want under-hood black.  For hood hinges, steering components and sway bar
you'll want cast grey.  For equipment on the firewall, like the wiper motor,
detail grey looks great.  For A/C plumbing their aluma-blast does the job.  It
also never hurts to touch up rusty/grimy brake, fuel and transmission lines
with some sandpaper and detail gray paint.

Your air cleaner should be glossy black.  I had one of mine professionally
shot at a body shop for best results  It cost about $35 and looked much better
than I could ever get it with a rattling spray can.  I can also personally
recommend their cadmium plate-like paint system for the power brake booster
and assorted parts.  If done carefully, strictly following directions, the
results are rewarding.  A wire brush attachment on your electric drill, or
better yet grinding wheel, makes for quick and easy prep work.

Tom Simmons
65 Cutlass
70 SX W-32

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 23:36:55 EDT
From: DEOVIVERE@aol.com
Subject: Re: under hood color

In a message dated 98-10-05 13:39:40 EDT, you write:

<< Now this beauty has to go in an engine compartment which should be fresh
 painted too I think. I know it is supposed to be something like
 "half-glossy" black... Can anyone describe that? Is it glossy at all? Is
 there a place where I can order the original paint in spray cans? Or is
 ther a close to original brand at the hardware store??? I only found
 glossy or dull color so far. >>


BTW, Eastwood can be reached at 800-345-1178 and www.eastwoodco.com

Tom

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 00:03:52 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Rally Pack -- definition wanted

> From: John Kreitzer <john.kreitzer@gte.net>

> a place called "The Parts Place" had them, $600.00 - Ouch!!.  They are
not
> cheap by any stretch of the imagination. Anyway, thats my $.02.
>
> John
>

Your right John they aren't cheap.  But they do increase the value of the
car they are put into by the same value or cost plus the enjoyment of
having them.  Cheap NO, but worth every penny to those who want to look at
there dash and see the factory tach and gauge. Anyway, thats my $.02.

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 23:02:07 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: thick oil in bad motor?

Sure you can. The thick oil will increase the oil pressure by maybe 5
pounds. Some NEW motors require 20w50 because the clearances are set on the
looser side. The only other way the motor can get higher oil pressure is by
installing ahigher pressure pump. It won't hurt anything, it will actually
help.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Jim Olson <jolson@remcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: thick oil in bad motor?
> Date: Monday, October 05, 1998 10:13 PM
>
> Ok, here's a real stupid question, and I'd never do this to my GMs, but
> I have a Ford with very weak oil pressure. Can I put something in it to
> get me by until I get another motor? Like thick oil?
>
> Jim...
>
> 1983 Olds powered Malibu wagon

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 00:07:52 -0400
From: dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us (Douglas Kitchener)
Subject: Ralph Braun's Father

All,

I've just learned that Ralph Braun's father died in Kansas on Sunday at the age
of 92.

As most of you know, Ralph is President and Newsletter Editor of the Toronado
Chapter of the Olds Club and has been so for many years.

His dad had been going downhill for sometime, and Ralph told me last week that
he no longer had much quality of life... still, though, to live to be 92 is a
wonderful thing.

Ralph's email address is rgbdeb@midusa.net

Mailing address is Box 211, Council Grove KS 66846.

Thought all of the Olds folks would want to know about this.

Regards,

Doug Kitchener
Membership Manager

Toronado Chapter, Oldsmobile Club of America

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 00:29:34 -0400
From: dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us (Douglas Kitchener)
Subject: Fwd: My DAD:

>From: "Ralph G. and Dorothy E. Braun" <rgbdeb@midusa.net>
>To: "Kitchener, Doug" <dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us>
>Subject: My DAD
>Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 15:48:21 -0500
>
>Doug:  My Dad died last night (Sunday) at 7:l5 pm.  Wanted you to know.
>He has had a long time struggle, but now is at peace.  Will keep in
>touch.   Ralph

Dear Ralph, Dorothy and family,

So sorry to hear about your dad.  You had mentioned last week that he no longer
had much quality of life, but still, to have lived to be 92 is wonderful.  From
the occasional things you've written of him in the Olds publications over the
years, I felt that I'd gotten to know him a little, always had the impression
that he must have been one tough cookie, especially after he was so badly 
burned
 several years ago.  I never thought until then, how tough farming must be.

I've let some of the other guys know via email, and will phone Dick Taschenberg
and Cory tomorrow.

Anything I can do to help, please let me know, and I'm sure that goes for all 
of
 the other folks in the chapter and on the email lists.  Almost hate to mention
 it now, but I know you were trying to get a newsletter out and then head for
Spokane... I hope you won't concern yourself with the newsletter, but if need
be, maybe somehow I can give you a hand with it, if you want.

Also, please allow me to express my condolences on behalf of the officers and
members of the Toronado Chapter, and the members of the Toronado and Oldsmobile
email lists, if they will permit me.

Get in touch when you can.

Best,

Doug

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 00:47:26 -0400
From: "Johnny Gage" <bladernr@roava.net>
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil and improved mpg

hehehe... seems I spend maybe just a lil too much time witht eh secondaries
open  <innocent grin>  But thanks for teh info...  I guess I'll just stick
to the ol faithful right now...  besides which, I usually change the oil
every 2500 - 3000 anyway...

Though I do know that pure synthetic actaully lasts roughly 5000 -7500 miles
in my saturn...  but then again, thats a lil tiny 4 banger, notihing
compared to the mighty 425...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 00:43:06 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Rally Pack -- definition wanted

Scott,

The Rally Pac (no "K") was Oldspeak for the gauge and tach set.  When the
option was first released in the 1967 model year (or late in the 66 model
year, as there is apparently some disagreement), the Rally Pac was a
one-piece assembly in the right hand gauge pod (there were only two pods in
66-67) which had the tach in the center and the fuel/oil/temp gauges around
the outside.   From 68-72, with the three-pod dash, the Rally Pac was a
combination of tach/clock (the Tic-Toc-Tach) in the right hand gauge pod
and a set of fuel/oil/temp gauges in the left gauge pod.  The speedo was
the same as on other cars.  Over the years these sets have been broken up,
with people selling just the tach or just the gauges, but all Rally Pac
cars came from the factory with tach and gauges as a set.  Note that while
they look similar, the 68-69 Rally Pac will not interchange with the 70-72
Rally Pac.  The mounting ears are different - the 68-69 set mounts to the
individual plastic bezels and must be removed and installed from under the
dash.  The 70-72 units mount directly to the dash plastic and can be
removed and installed from the front of the dash after removing the
chrome/woodgrain one-piece bezel.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 23:17:24 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: RTFM...

> > Seriously, what's RTFM?
> You can find the procedure shown in most any service book, not just
> the factory manual. It's pretty straightforward (once you find the
> right page... :-)

One thing to keep in mind while reading those %@%$$%$# manuals...  Be sure to
utilize some extra logic and common sense, since most of the pages end up with
the words "replace the ECM" since those were the R&R days...  Often times,
there's either no problems at all, or a simple connection causing a problem, 
yet
the tech will replace the whole damn works...  Had that happen to me, which was
my main drive for taking up automotive technology in college.  $900 + in
unneeded computer repairs to fix a choke coil...
	
- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 22:12:05 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Rally Pack -- definition wanted

CPEARLPARK@aol.com wrote:

> Confused about this term. I'd really like to have a tach in my 71 4-4-2, so
> I'm checking out my options.  What is a rally pack?  Is it the all-in-one
> gauge "system" shown in the YearOne electrical section (clock,tach,
> gen,temp,oil) or is it a couple of optional gauges? I currently have the non-
> working clock, speedo, and idiot light combo. (The car is generally light on
> options). Any info appreciated: is this another one of those nearly 
impossible
> to find items? Any sources? Approx.cost I should expect? Difficulty to
> install? etc....
> Thanks again.
> Scott

Scott,
The only factory tach for your 71 was part of the option U21.
Called the Rocket Rallye Pac, this option included a tach that
was located in the right side "pod" in the dash.  The tach needle
swept the outside of the pod with a clock located in the center.
The left pod featured a gauge for fuel, coolant temperature and oil
pressure.  With warning lights for brake and charging system.
The speedo was the same with or without U21.

I have always referred to the Rallye Pac as having the
"factory optimistic tach", because they always seem to
give a higher reading than the actual rpm.
(Although, perhaps that was intentional by the factory
to keep the over zealous from buzzing it to high).
In addition, the tach is obscured by the steering wheel,
making it difficult to read.

Another drawback to the Rallye Pac is the gauges do not
indicate an actual number reading, just a scale with C-H
for temp and L-H for oil.  Although, after awhile of
observing them, you'll be able to distinguish
normal operation from a problem situation.

Even with the down sides of the Rallye Pac,
it is an option that every performance Cutlass
or 4-4-2 should have.

Regarding cost and availability, they seem to run
in the $250 to $400 range.  Check Hemmings Motor
News and local swap meets for a set.  Don't forget
you'll need the proper sending units for the temp and
oil gauge plus the proper brass extension for the oil gauge.
As well as the lead from the tach to the coil.

Converting a 71 to the Rallye Pac is one of the easier
years to change over.   As the pods can be removed and
replaced from the front of the dash.  You will need to
relocate some of the wires on the connector.  Check
with the faq at 442.com for specifics.

Hope this helps,

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 23:44:40 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Edelbrock Heads - Anyone try them ?

>Now that it appears the much-anticipated Edelbrock Aluminum Olds heads are
>available, has anyone actually tried a set ? If so, what did you think of
>them in terms of fit, finish and (most importantly :-) performance

I think that Ben has tried them.  On that note, how much were they and are
they worth the performance-per-dollar.  I bet they would be a huge
improvement over my ported Js.  Igor.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/propane/th2004r)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 01:49:13 -0400
From: "Jason P. Labay" <jlabay@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: Re: Edelbrock Heads - Anyone try them ?

Summit has them on display in their store. Price is $1599 /pair.

Jason Labay  Akron, OH jlabay@neo.lrun.com
http://home.neo.lrun.com/jlabay



>I think that Ben has tried them.  On that note, how much were they and are
>they worth the performance-per-dollar.  I bet they would be a huge
>improvement over my ported Js.  Igor.
>
>Igor Todorovic
>1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
>1981 Regency (307/propane/th2004r)
>1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 01:53:17 EDT
From: Cutw29@aol.com
Subject: Mirrors in my Cutlass "S"

My 72 S has a mirror on both sunvisors.  The mirror on the drivers side has
hooks on it that slide over the top of the visor.  The passenger side mirror
appears to be glued to the visor and is in good shape.  This drivers side
mirror says Oldsmobile on it and is in good condition (not cracked) but they
have rustlike marks on them.  My rearview mirror has the map light and is in
good shape but it has this same rustlike marks on it.  I was wondering if
anybody knows how to remove these marks if it is possible.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 02:03:49 EDT
From: JJP442@aol.com
Subject: Re:  WTB G-BODY DOORS.

Hey if you are in the N.Y.C area, I need a drivers door for my 87 442 can you
help???
John-Queens N.Y.
JJP442@aol.com
1983 H/O
1987 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 19:34:00
From: <lkj8847@yahoo.com>
Subject: your web site

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 02:06:12 EDT
From: JJP442@aol.com
Subject: Re:  Re: Cutlass GT?

I'd like to take a gander at that too!!!
John_Queens N.Y.
JJP442@aol.com
1983 H/O
1987 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 02:28:30 EDT
From: JJP442@aol.com
Subject: Re:  G-Body Cruise Control (long)

GM serviced that recall on my 87 442 all they did is place a rubber bushing
around the throttle rod where it goes thru the servo unit. The original metal
bracket attached to the servo wears out causing the rod to fall down and wedge
itself. This causes the carb continue to idle at a high rpm. It actually
happened to me. Luckily good brakes and quick thinking kept me from rear
ending someone. Picture trying to stop your car while the engine is at
2500-3000 rpm and you are traveling at 40mph and the gas pedal doesn't come
off the floor!!!
Hope this was what you were looking for
John_Queens N.Y.
JJP442@aol.com
1983 H/O
1987 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 02:38:20 EDT
From: JJP442@aol.com
Subject: Re:  Re: Cutlass GT?

Jerry,
I don't own it just saw it locally awhile back. It was a white 86 Cutlass
Salon w/SSIII buckets, console etc. and a trunk badge, orange  w/black trim
F-41.
Car really looked sharp, haven't seen it lately.
John,Queens-N.Y.
JJP441@aol.com
1983 H/O
1987 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 03:31:28
From: <agw8847@yahoo.com>
Subject: concerning your site

            We'll Submit Your Site To

                    Over 800

     Search Engines, Directories, & Indices

                 For Only $39.95


     ***  100% Money Back Guarantee  ***

*** Immediately Increase Your Sites Exposure ***

 For Less Than 5 Cents Each We Will Submit Your
 Web Site To Over 800 Of The Net's Hottest Search
 Engines, Directories & Indices.

 If your site isn't listed in the Search Engines,
 how can people find you to buy your products
 or services?

 For just $39.95 we'll take the work load off your
 back instead of you trying to do it manually which
 can take hours upon hours and even days to do.

 We're the professionals that are here to help
 you have a shot at having a successful marketing
 experience with the internet.

 You know as well as we that your time is
 best utilized managing your business and not
 sitting at some keyboard hours upon hours
 trying to save less than 5 cents for each
 submission. See how it's kind of crazy to try
 to tackle this on your own.  It's just not
 cost effective to try to do this yourself to
 save just $39.95.

 See why businesses both large and small have
 come to us to utilize our services.  Hotels,
 Motels, On-Line Stores, Travel Agents, Colleges,
 Universities, Governments, Fortune 500 companies,
 Movie Studios, Chambers Of Commerce and many,
 many more.  Shouldn't you give us a call now?

 Here's how easy it is to order.

 Call us toll free at (800) 771-2003 in the USA
 or Canada or (916) 771-4739 outside the USA
 and we'll provide you with all the necessary
 information to get you submitted Right Away...















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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 00:00:10 -0700
From: "Mike Lias" <mlias@thegrid.net>
Subject: Re: G-Body Cruise Control (long)

My cruise control doesn't work at all on my '86 442... I looked for a fuse,
but didn't find one... What can be wrong?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 01:03:02 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: 83 Cutlass Delay Wipers

Anyone had any technical (or not) experience with these?  It's got the delay
electronics out on the motor itself, along with a cycling relay.    Mine 
crapped
out on me (well, it's been acting up periodically for years, but always came
back to life.  Today, however, during a lengthy rainstorm, it died.  And stayed
dead.  And still's dead...  I'm sure it's part of the delay's electronics 
acting
up, but haven't had a chance to check it out very completely.  It hasn't quit
raining in three days.  Kinda sucked, that 10 mile drive home tonight...  Kinda
like winter, no visibility...  Grabbed a different motor tonight, if I can't 
get
anything accomplished with the orig, I'll try swapping it in... if it works...
Don't know what I'll end up doing, maybe I'll get lucky and it'll quit raining
(fat chance...)  At least its only rain, and not a torrential hurricane/flood
disaster...  so far...  :(
- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
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     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 03:54:57 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)

For those just tuning in...I'm trying to figure out what's wrong with the
oiling system on my '84 Delta 88 4-door, 307, TH-350.

Jacked the car up on stands, crawled under and looked around and GLORY BE!
A whole bunch of oil, all over the place, on the pan, filter, starter,
EVERYWHERE.  So, we're leaking somewhere.

I go to take the oil pan off.  This is extremely difficult.  I had to
remove the starter to get to a few bolts, and STILL couldn't do some of
them 'cause the freaking "motor mounts" were in the way (one on each side,
3-piece metal assembly, one piece has foam on it, foam rides under oil pan,
other two pieces attach to the block and to the frame, PLEASE TELL ME IF
THIS IS NOT THE CORRECT TERMINOLOGY).  So, I take the motor mounts off.
This was A LOT easier (read = possible) after someone told me to take the
weight off of the mounts (I used two bottle jacks, one on each
manifold...not the MOST secure arrangement, I wouldn't want to drive the
car that wa...uh...anyway...)

So...ALL THE BOLTS ARE OFF!  I'M FILTHY DIRTY YUCKY GROSS!  THAT TOOK WAY
TOO LONG!  I'M OUT OF SMOKES!  I GO BUY MORE!  I WIGGLE AND JIGGLE AND
FINALLY THE PAN IS LOOSE!

I CAN'T GET THE %$#^&*@ OIL PAN OUT!!!!!  I _thought_ that I could just
SLIDE it out the back, but OH, NO.  Won't clear the frame on the bottom,
won't clear the..."balancer" on the transmission side (parts terminology is
extremely lacking here).  Also seems that the centerlink is maybe in the
way (if I come out the front, and I KNOW that's the right word, thank you...)

QUESTION 1:

Does the oil pan come out the front (towards the belts) or the rear
(towards my sh*tty rebuilt TH-350)?

(disclaimer for Question 2): I DO NOT WANT TO LIFT THE ENGINE I DO NOT WANT
TO RENT A HOIST I DO NOT WANT TO LIFT THE ENGINE I DO NOT WANT TO RENT A
HOIST I DO NOT WANT TO LIFT THE ENGINE I DO NOT WANT TO RENT A HOIST ETC
ETC ETC.

QUESTION 2:

How do I get the damn thing out of there?

INCIDENTALLY - Just becuause I only asked two questions doesn't mean I know
what I'm doing (like you couldn't tell)...

I want that oil pan out ASAP, so I can get on to bigger and better things
(like figuring out what the hell is wrong with it, and putting it back
together, so I can go to the Westheimer Street Festival in Houston this
weekend in my own damn car...), and I JUST KNOW that SOMEONE on the list
knows how to do it.

Don't keep me waitin'!

THANK YOU!
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 05:05:15 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: G-Body Cruise Control (long)

> G-Body owners, my cruise control system has been acting up since I owned the
car, with sharp > increases and decreases in throttle position when it's
activated.

That was a recall back in 1989 if I remember correctly.  I had to take
the 85 and 87 in to the Olds dealer for the free "fix".  The "bushing"
was a metal J clip they put in the servo bail to ensure the rod didn't
cock and jam in the bail.  5 minutes each car.  Stupid idiots left
grease on the fender too.  THAT I remember.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 05:12:00 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: G-Body Cruise Control (long)

Mike Lias wrote:
>
> My cruise control doesn't work at all on my '86 442... I looked for a fuse,
> but didn't find one... What can be wrong?


9 times out of 10 it's the column switch itself (turn signal stalk) that
goes bad.  Also, you might want to check for loose/broken vacuum hose
connections to the servo.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 05:16:44 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Cruise control

Speaking of cruise, anyone know where I can get an NOS cruise control
switch/turn signal lever with delay wipers for an 85 G-body?  I need one
with the chrome stem on it.  The dealer only has all black, and it's
shaped slightly different.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 06:45:11 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Ralph Braun's Father (fwd)

From Doug Kitchener...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 00:07:52 -0400
From: Douglas Kitchener <dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us>
Subject: Ralph Braun's Father

All,

I've just learned that Ralph Braun's father died in Kansas on Sunday at the age
of 92.

As most of you know, Ralph is President and Newsletter Editor of the Toronado
Chapter of the Olds Club and has been so for many years.

His dad had been going downhill for sometime, and Ralph told me last week that
he no longer had much quality of life... still, though, to live to be 92 is a
wonderful thing.

Ralph's email address is rgbdeb@midusa.net

Mailing address is Box 211, Council Grove KS 66846.

Thought all of the Olds folks would want to know about this.

Regards,

Doug Kitchener
Membership Manager

Toronado Chapter, Oldsmobile Club of America

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 06:50:42 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: 442 For Sale (fwd)

Not on the list, respond to marv.dyck@dlcwest.com if interested.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Marv Dyck <marv.dyck@dlcwest.com>
Subject: 442 For Sale

Hi Greg - I don't know if you accept car adds but I have been a member
of the Buick, Olds, Pontiac Club in Regina, Saskatchewan for many years
and have a 1970 442 for sale as follows - Thanks! Marv Dyck

FOR SALE:

VEHICLE:   1970 OLDSMOBILE  442
VIN:    344870Z108746
TRIM:   933 ? BLUE ? Currently Black
PAINT:   20 ? AZURE BLUE ? Currently Red w Black Vinyl Roof
SHIPPING DATE:  11/19/69
MODEL/BODY/STYLE: 34487
BASE ENGINE: 455 CID ? 365 HP ? V8, Rebuilt to W30 Specs. Non Matching
Numbers But Vintage Engine Block - Casting Number 396021F (1968-72
block) c/w E-Cast Heads, X & Y Manifolds

G.M. ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT OPTIONS,  * DENOTES CHANGES FROM ORIGINAL

OPTION  DESCRIPTION
C50   REAR WINDOW DEFROSTER ? BLOWER TYPE
D55   FRT COMPARTMENT FLOOR CONSOLE
G80   REAR AXLE ? 12 BOLT, POSITRACTION
JL2   DISC BRAKES ? FRONT SINGLE PISTON
K05   ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
*M21 ORIGINAL 4-SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION ? CLOSE RATIO ? 2.20 FIRST GR.
? CONVERTED TO M41
M41 TURBO HYDRAMATIC
N47 STEERING POWER
P01 WHEEL TRIM COVER
U21 CLUSTER W/TACH I/P
U63 RADIO ? PUSHBUTTON
V02 RADIATOR, H.D. W/HD. TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER
V48 ENGINE COOLANT ? INCREASED PROTEC (ANITFREEZE)
W84 ADDITIONAL FUEL FOR DELIVERY
Y68 CUSTOM APPEARANCE PACKAGE
D35 SPORTS-STYLED OUTSIDE MIRRORS
N34  CUSTOM SPORT TILT STEERING WHEEL
W25 FIBERGLASS RAM AIR HOOD ? PERFORMANCE/APPEARANCE PACKAGE

This is an original 4-Speed car converted to a TH-400 with a Ram Air
Hood (c/w Wire Mesh), Buckets Seats (re-upholstered), Console Shift, 12
Bolt, Posi-traction Differential, no A/C, Sport Mirrors, PS, Power Disc
Brakes, Original Notched Rear 442 Bumper, Sport Tilt Wheel, Tic-Toc
Gauges, New Carpet, Buckets Redone, Dash Good, Excellent Grill.
This car is complete and in excellent condition for restoration. It has
been stored inside and needs exhaust, a front windshield, has minor
rust, comes with extra good front fenders, three rally wheels w/o chrome
rings or inserts.
Absolutely No Parting Out! Asking $3,000.00 U.S.
Call 1-306-545-7515 (Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada), ask for Marv.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 04:31:41 -0600
From: "Marshall A. Priest" <miss_connie@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Still overheating, next step, a kia

Have you checked the temp sending units?...They could be wrong.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 05:54:33 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: Still overheating, next step, a kia

Are the flaps over the wheelwells in place?  Is the front air dam in
place?

These are REQUIRED.  I have seen many people pay $$$ to the dealer to
find out why their car is overheating just to find out these are
missing.

Air must flow THROUGH the radiator, not around, if there is a high
pressure (from wheels spinning) in the engine compartment, air will be
diverted around the radiator and you will always run hot.

The Air Dam in from causes the air to have a high pressure in FRONT of
the radiator, and thus a low pressure behind, coaxing air to flow
THROUGH the radiator.  Above 40 mph, typically a fan is not needed.
Unless there is an airflow problem.

Also, low timing can cause engines to run inefficient, and run hot.

(Ever look at the air dam on a 70-81 Trans AM?  They work!  I was
running 210 in 30 degree weather when I have mine off for trailer
purposes, with, I ran rock solid 180, just like the my high flow
thermostat said it should)


Enjoy!

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1533
*********************************
