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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1524


oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, October 1 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1524



Re: Alarms
Re: Where to hide an alarm switch (Was Re: Alarms)
Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)
Re: Tweeter Dome Location??
Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)
RE: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)
Pinging
My Favorite Car Alarms(That Don't Exist)
Re: Alarms
Re: Where to hide an alarm switch (Was Re: Alarms)
RE: Tweeter Dome Location??
Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)
Re: Need elec. h#lp on 1982 Olds
FF: Rear trunk emblem
Re: G-Body.Org now has a Representative for Cutlass!!!
Ignition kill switch
Re: Alarms/coffin nail lighter
Re: Carb Rebuild
Re: Alarms
Re: Aftermarket Radio for 72
Re: Tweeter Dome Location??
Re: Alarms/towing
Re: restoring SSI
seat belts
Tranny?? Oh No!!
Re: Good bodywork books?
RE: 455 Cam's
RE: seat belts
Re: Pinging
Re: Ignition kill switch
Re: 69 442 grilles
Re: Arrrgh! 2-Jet Rochesters!
RE: Where to hide an alarm switch (Was Re: Alarms)
outer wheel well
Re: seat belts
Re: funny sound
Re: Car Alarms >>Kinda Long
Re: Alarms)
72 convertible sitting and rotting
Re: Alarms)
Re: junkyard
Re: junkyard
Wash D.C. Area Junkyards?
Exhaust FYI
Re: Should I buy?  (G-body price q)
Re: Olds, Non Olds
Re: Tapes of the Olds show from speed vision.
RE: G-Body.Org now has a Representative for Cutlass!!!
Re:Gage Clusters for Delta 88s
Re: Exhaust FYI
RE: G-Body.Org now has a Representative for Cutlass!!!
72 cutlass 's' exhaust system
Re: Car Alarms >>Kinda Long
Re: 72 cutlass 's' exhaust system
Would the owner of the "Olds-Mo-Ch*vy"
Re: Olds, Non Olds

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 17:41:03 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: Alarms

Padavano.Joe@orbital.com wrote:
>
> You betcha. You can also hide it in plain sight
> __________
>
> I've always liked a push-on,push-off switch built into the cigarette
> lighter (though you then need another power source for the radar
> detector/cell phone/video game/etc).

All those are hard wired, cause I need the Cigarette Lighter for
lighting Cigarettes!
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 17:44:48 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: Where to hide an alarm switch (Was Re: Alarms)

Andrew C. Green wrote:

> Time for a quick summary of possible places on the dash to hide
> an ignition kill switch, and their drawbacks:

POWER SEAT - Won't ever get that seat position you'd like...

BRAKE SWITCH - This one's obvious.

- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 17:54:49 EDT
From: JCRASH7@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)

>  Yes, you do.  Period. :)  Especially if you don't get 6X9's in back (can't
>  remember what fits there...)  If you go with a sub or two, you ~won't~
> regret
>  it!  I guarantee it!  A singal 10 or 12 would probably be perfect for that
> car,
>  unless you want to do some showing off too.  Then two 12's would be
> excellent.
>  I run two 10" MTX 5000 series.  I am very happy with 'em in the Teaser.
>

One question, do you mount the sub speakers facing toward the rear seat, or
toward the taillights?

>  You're fine with a Pioneer choice for CD player.

<snip>

Ok,
>
>  Door speakers???  Not sure what you'll have room for there, but I think
it's
>  gonna be custom.  Don't recall ever seeing speakers in those doors.  :(
But,
>  as
>  I recall, those doors have room for tons of options (any verified
experience
>  here?????)  For sound quality, mids in the doors would be a Godsend in that
> car,
>  3-12's just don't do much.  a good pair of 6-1/2 midbass drivers would be
> worth
>  their weight in Gold in that sound system...

Our Buick LeSabre has factory speakers in the doors, older Buick's don't?  I'm
sure there's a Cadillac door out there with a speaker in it.

>  As to the sub/no-sub system?  If you can do it, by all means, do it.
You'll
> be
>  glad you did, it adds ~sooooo~ much.  It doesn't have to be anything
massive
> or
>  extravagent, even a single 10 will make a vastly noticable difference for
> you.
>  An important factor of a good sounding sub is the amp.  Skip the EQ for
now,
>  that can come later.  Pioneer's decks have a good EQ curve built in, use
it,
>  you'll be happy.  The amp should be a high quality unit, pushing at a
~very~
>  minimum of 50 watts true RMS to each sub.  That will give you the reserve
> power
>  you'll need to truly experience the music.  Anything above that is up to
> your
>  own pocket's discretion, but the sky's the limit.  Pioneer's line of amps
is
>  high quality, as long as supplied from a reputable source (i.e. ~NOT~
> WalMart!)
>  MTX supplies some really fine equipment, too.  I haven't been impressed by
>  Clarion amps and speakers, in the past... (Love their head units,
though!!!)
>
>  Kicker is a good product too.  Fosgate, Alpine, and  Kenwood are all
> reputable
>  performers.... (although ~I~ don't support 'em...  Had good luck with some
>  Rockford Fosgate, but as for all around sound quality and performance, I
can'
> t
>  say ~too~ much in their favor...  For power and punch?  Yeah, Fosgate will
> shake
>  ya!

My main concern on the subs and amps, will there be enough power?  Will I have
to get more than one battery or better alternator?  If so, no subs for me...


>  My ~best~ recommendations???  JL Audio subs, Oz Audio mids and highs,
> Phoenix
>  Gold amps, Audio Control signal Processors, and Clarion source.  That's the
> best
>  of the best, to me.

I'm not getting any best of any best.  Since I've stored my car, and school's
started up again, I don't have to work, hence I have no money.  Next year I'll
work and I don't think I'll be storing my car again next year.  I'm putting it
away this year so I can do body work, and also an engine/tranny swap if I can
get the use of a certain garage...

>  The ~BIG~ question, however, is "Is It Worth It???????"
>  Most definately yes.  Regardless of what you're driving, ~yes~ it's very
> worth
>  it.  Especially if you do the work yourself.  You can take ~all~ the
> equipment
>  with you if (when) you get a new car.  In the event you sell your car, you

Probably won't get rid of The Broham if I can get a new engine in there...

>  And why I've done Delta cutouts several times without a moment of remorse.
>  You've got the right car, enjoy it to it's fullest.

Which makes me think of something!  Me thinks the Oldsmagnet needs a Delta!

>  CD is the only way to go, for sound quality, for performance, for

Amen!

>  I'll cite George Strait as an example.

No offense, just have to notify everyone of ~my~ music.  Everyone will be
happy to know it's not "in your face rap crap" (please, no flames)  100% pure
LedZep fan here along with some Ozzy, GnR, etc...

Joe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 18:09:30 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tweeter Dome Location??

Do not bounce the tweeters sound off the windsheild...it will cause
colorations in the treble(cacelations and reinforcements of certain freq.s).
high and forward in the doors, with the focal point of the two tweeters at
about the dome light is a very good place. the optimum placement is low and
forward in the kickpanels(i know this sounds like the worst place, just bear
with me for a sec). By placing them low and forward in the kickpanels, you are
effectively minimizing the travel distance offset of the two tweeters. In
otherwords, the sound from each tweeter will reach your ears at closer to the
same time, the farther away they are from your ears. This helps to create
depth and width of the soundstage. I mean think about it, you wouldn't want to
take your homestereo speakers and set one right next to you, and the other
across the room, would you?...of course not. doing this with the tweeters will
widen the sweet spot for all passengers.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 18:17:22 EDT
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)

in my 85 cutlass supreme i have two  3 1/2 inch fosgate tweeters in the dash
5 1/4's in the doors and  6x9's in the back and two 12 inch fosgate subs in
the back facing the tail lights.    If you face them towards the back seat the
sound is not as good because its not bouncing off of a real hard surface cause
its kind of soft mine sounds ten times better w/ them facing towards the tail
lights.  oh and I crossed over a blaupunk 300 watt amp to put out 800 watts
per channel subs sound much better that way.    As for music the only thing
that ever gets played in my car is zeppellin, floyd, doors, hendrix, stevie
ray vaughn, cream, CCR, ect.......
								Just my 2 
cents     Rich

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 18:41:01 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)

On Wednesday, September 30, 1998 5:39 AM, Oldsmagnet [SMTP:buehner@lyrea.com]
wrote: > > I'll cite George Strait as an example.  You know the scenaario.  You
by an > album, since you heard a good song on the radio.  What do you know.
There's > only two good songs on the album...  ~OF COURSE~ they're the second
songs on > each side of the tape...  ten minutes of fast forwarding for each
song, stopping > periodically to deterimine where you are (Or if your AMS in
finding it...)

Heck yeah!  I agree on the George Strait part.  In fact, I'm getting his 
'Strait
Out of the Box' box set in a few weeks from BMG...

Anyway, car-related content:  in my dad's Grand Cherokee (Infinity/Chrysler
sound), the "up/down" rocker button actually has three functions.

1)  Tuning the radio requency.
2)  Song skipping on a CD.
3)  (The cool part) Song skipping on a tape.

If you playing a tape and you hit the down rocker, it will actually fast 
forward
to the next song and when it gets there, resume playing!  The up part of the
rocker will actually rewind the tape to the beginning of the song, a
double-click brings the beginning of the previous song...just like a disc
player.  I have no idea how it actually does it, but it works great, just 
slower
than with a CD.  Are there any third-party tape decks with this feature that
the public can buy?

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 17:41:21 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Pinging

Preignition and Detonation are two different animals, no matter what sound
they might make. Caused by similar conditions, (sometimes), one is an
annoyance, the other is serious. Have to stick by my guns on this one. SAE
has some good info on this.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 18:43:31 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: My Favorite Car Alarms(That Don't Exist)

I vote for the James Brown yell or Sam Kinison scream car alarm.

OH OH OH OOOOOHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Smile, and Take Care!
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 18:51:02 EDT
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Alarms

I have one on my Starfire GT that works like this:

There's a second dimmer switch on the floor in the driver's area, hidden but
not near the regular dimmer switch.  The hot wire from the oil pressure switch
to the electric fuel pump is routed through this switch, and if it's pushed
the fuel pump doesn't come on, effectively running the car out of gas in short
order.  Also doubles as an anti-carjacking device, just have to remember to
push it before getting out of the car!

Be safe, don't let anyone else take your toys, and Take Care!
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 16:52:39 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Where to hide an alarm switch (Was Re: Alarms)

Fan switch (Fan-motor wire runs Distributor)

This is also handy WHEN that 9-volt resistor wire burns away on
points-ignitions..

Eric
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/

Andrew C. Green wrote:
>
> Time for a quick summary of possible places on the dash to hide
> an ignition kill switch, and their drawbacks:
>
> Have I missed any?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 15:59:48 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Tweeter Dome Location??

An excellent counterpoint to my dash placement. Actually I'm putting the
front speakers for the Starfire in the kick panels. Since it's an A/c car,
the vacuum controlled vents are simply flat panels into which I'll be
installing either 6.5" rounds or bigger.

I may just agree at the end of this install, but for now, I'm real impressed
with the dash solution. BTW, my '94 M*zda MX-6 has the dash setup and lower
speakers in the doors. This
also sounds pretty good.

to each his own on this one folks, but cool tunes are a big part of the fun
for me.

cf



> -----Original Message-----
> From: GT5726@aol.com [mailto:GT5726@aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, October 01, 1998 3:10 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Tweeter Dome Location??
>
>
> Do not bounce the tweeters sound off the windsheild...it will cause
> colorations in the treble(cacelations and reinforcements of
> certain freq.s).
> high and forward in the doors, with the focal point of the
> two tweeters at
> about the dome light is a very good place. the optimum
> placement is low and
> forward in the kickpanels(i know this sounds like the worst
> place, just bear
> with me for a sec). By placing them low and forward in the
> kickpanels, you are
> effectively minimizing the travel distance offset of the two
> tweeters. In
> otherwords, the sound from each tweeter will reach your ears
> at closer to the
> same time, the farther away they are from your ears. This
> helps to create
> depth and width of the soundstage. I mean think about it, you
> wouldn't want to
> take your homestereo speakers and set one right next to you,
> and the other
> across the room, would you?...of course not. doing this with
> the tweeters will
> widen the sweet spot for all passengers.
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 19:00:20 EDT
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)

>I have no idea how it actually does it, but it works great, just slower than
with a
>CD.  Are there any third-party tape decks with this feature that the public
can buy?

The way it does it is it has a sensor that can tell when there is nothing on
the tape like there is music and then there is no sound at all it can tell
this then it stops the tape and starts to play again when there is music.
Yes you can buy them the more expensive sony and pioneer tape players have
this option.
If you want to buy one they should have them at most stores that sell cd and
tape players they also have them at crutchfield

Rich
82 cutlass supreme
85 cutlass supreme (soon to be parts)  :(

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 16:02:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Need elec. h#lp on 1982 Olds

- ---"Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Anyone out there have a ~GM~ manual for an 82 Olds....I need
> > some help with wiring .....need to know some colors...of course
> > they're different on a 82 compared to my 84 and 85....can someone
> > help please?
>
> Just go ahead and post the details; we'll either know the answers,
> have a book with the answers, or a car in the parking lot that
> might match it...


- ----Ok then....What I need is the colors of the wires for an 82
Cutlass with factory guages for the main plug  positions 1-14. I wrote
them down but lost them.

==
John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 19:05:09 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: FF: Rear trunk emblem

Hi list.  That subject says For Free: Rear trunk emblem.

Mark Tupper sent me a trunk emblem for free, but I can't use it because I 
didn't
specify the size/orientation.  I have an emblem that I've never seen before,
but I'm offering it up to anyone who needs it:

It's about 4" tall and 1.5" wide.  It's a trunk emblem that surrounds the
keyhole.  Most of the G-Bodies have them, but this one looks like one possibly
from an A-Body.  The G-Body ones have a symbol (like the Rocket) or word (like
Brougham) _below_ the keyhole.  This one has a Rocket symbol (on black)
background above the keyhole.  It won't fit a G-Body and looks bigger than mine
(for an A-Body probably).

If this fits the description of an emblem that someone needs, e-mail me your
address (privately) and I'll send 'er right out...

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 16:14:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: G-Body.Org now has a Representative for Cutlass!!!

- ---Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com> wrote:
>
> That's right, and it's OLDS related...
>
> I am the rep (crossing fingers), at least I think I am...
>
> Now all I gotta do is get our page up and running, and make it the one
> with the most Class!!!  heh, after all, isn't that what we want?
>
> More info as it becomes avail....
> --
>                 - Jerry Christopher -
> IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
>        HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI
>
- ---------Me and Tupper are already there...and Jason A...We can out
number the others though....:>
>

==
John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 16:10:26 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Ignition kill switch

All this talk of ignition kill switches raises
one question in my mind.  Installing a on/off
switch in the positive coil wire seems moot.
Because when the car is hot wired, this
switch will have in effect been bypassed.
Thereby serving no purpose.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 19:20:53 EDT
From: MFATZII@aol.com
Subject: Re: Alarms/coffin nail lighter

In a message dated 10/1/98 4:41:06 PM Central Daylight Time,
ithefunki@cchat.com writes:

<<
 > I've always liked a push-on,push-off switch built into the cigarette
 > lighter (though you then need another power source for the radar
 > detector/cell phone/video game/etc).

 All those are hard wired, cause I need the Cigarette Lighter for
 lighting Cigarettes! >>



Smoking in the car !!!  shame shame..nothing like yellow windows

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 19:24:30 EDT
From: MFATZII@aol.com
Subject: Re: Carb Rebuild

In a message dated 10/1/98 4:33:58 PM Central Daylight Time, ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
writes:

<< Just got a 71 455 Q-jet back for my Vista Cruiser. Perfect, beautiful as
close
 to NOS you could want, it even works great. I would recomend this guy to
 anyone its $200.00 to restore and rebuild  and its worth it.
   I've had nothing but problems with rebuilds since I redid my engine and
 tranny, but this guy cured it all.

 The Old Carb Doctor     he does pre electronic only
 Rt3 Box 338
 Drucilla Church Rd
 Nebo, N.C. 28761
 1-800-945-CARB (2272)

 Everett  OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire
  >>


Can he repair the throtle body...mine is leaking vacume in around the
horizontal shaft...

Ryan (MFatzII@aol.com)
Lincoln,   Nebraska  (Home of the Cornhuskers, too bad they suck !)
<<Turn it on, Wind it up, Blow it out, OLDS-MO-BILE>>

56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project Rocket)
<A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click here</A>
83 Cutlass Supreme Brougham (mom's)
85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham (girlfriend's)
89 Chevy Beretta CL (Ryan's  a.k.a   pool shark)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 18:25:00 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Alarms

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BDED68.CCECE1E0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Even then, if someone has a flatbed tow-truck, they can just tow it away. I
even heard of a case where a wealthy individual had a porsche parked next
to his driveway. his house was surrounded by a 8 foot high brick wall and
the only entrance was a gate which was metal and closed. Supposedly someone
with a helicopter had some type of fold up lift. The helicopter then just
lifted the car away. I don't know if this story is true, I just heard it
from someone else.

The towing away of a car is true. I know of numerous instances when the car
had the best alarm and it was just towed away on a flatbed.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: RGHaun@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Alarms
> Date: Thursday, October 01, 1998 1:29 PM
>
> Pitch the alarms, get a toggle switch, connect one terminal to
> the positive side of the coil, connect the other terminal to ground.
> Switch in one position will let you start the car, in other position
> car will not start. (don't forget to hide the toggle switch somewhere)
Have
> had this connection on my car since I got it
> plus on my other cars. Can't get any cheaper protection than this.
> Ron Haun (rghaun@aol.com)
> 71 442 W30 Red Convert.
- ------=_NextPart_000_01BDED68.CCECE1E0
Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF"><p><font size=3D2 =
color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Arial">Even then, if someone has a flatbed =
tow-truck, they can just tow it away. I even heard of a case where a =
wealthy individual had a porsche parked next to his driveway. his house =
was surrounded by a 8 foot high brick wall and the only entrance was a =
gate which was metal and closed. Supposedly someone with a helicopter =
had some type of fold up lift. The helicopter then just lifted the car =
away. <i>I don't know if this story is true, I just heard it from =
someone else.</i><br><br>The towing away of a car is true. I know of =
numerous instances when the car had the best alarm and it was just towed =
away on a flatbed.<br><font =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>Pettrix@prodigy.net</u><font =
color=3D"#000000"><br><br>----------<br>&gt; From: <font =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>RGHaun@aol.com</u><font color=3D"#000000"><br>&gt; =
To: <font color=3D"#0000FF"><u>oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</u><font =
color=3D"#000000"><br>&gt; Subject: Alarms<br>&gt; Date: Thursday, =
October 01, 1998 1:29 PM<br>&gt; <br>&gt; Pitch the alarms, get a toggle =
switch, connect one terminal to<br>&gt; the positive side of the coil, =
connect the other terminal to ground.<br>&gt; Switch in one position =
will let you start the car, in other position<br>&gt; car will not =
start. (don't forget to hide the toggle switch somewhere) Have<br>&gt; =
had this connection on my car since I got it<br>&gt; plus on my other =
cars. Can't get any cheaper protection than this.<br>&gt; Ron Haun =
(<font color=3D"#0000FF"><u>rghaun@aol.com</u><font =
color=3D"#000000">)<br>&gt; 71 442 W30 Red Convert.</p>
</font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></body></h=
tml>
- ------=_NextPart_000_01BDED68.CCECE1E0--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 19:30:30 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: Aftermarket Radio for 72

I would go with the Kenwood. Where'd you find it for that price?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 19:34:51 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tweeter Dome Location??

I like the door location. Tweeters should always be as close to the height of
your ears as possible but should not "assault" you from the front. So the
doors are the best spot. The windshield bounce would definitely take away from
the sound quality.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 19:36:58 EDT
From: MFATZII@aol.com
Subject: Re: Alarms/towing

In a message dated 10/1/98 6:29:32 PM Central Daylight Time,
PETTRIX@prodigy.net writes:

<< The towing away of a car is true. I know of numerous instances when the car
 had the best alarm and it was just towed away on a flatbed.
 Pettrix@prodigy.net
  >>


I have a buddy that tows for the local PD and also has the contract for the
University.  He says that they all the time tow cars with alarms going and
when they get to the impound lot they just put the car in the back until the
battery dies.  Even if the tower was thieving who would bother to mess with
em?  depending on how long it took the party at loss to notice the car
missing, the wrecker could already be at his destination.  Many wreckers
around here also have no signs to display the company with which it is
associated.   As long as it wasn't at night, and the driver had really large
spheres in his dickies...no problem.


Rayn

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 16:30:36 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: restoring SSI

Chris Smetana wrote:

> Hi all,
> Just curious as to how one would go about restoring the 14x6 all chrome
> drum-only SSI wheels?  The set I have on the W-31 has chrome peeling and
> the black paint is faded, I intend to keep them and wondered how to get
> them looking show quality.  Can these be rechromed, kinda like bumpers or
> what?  Thanks.

Chris,
According to the chrome shops around here, the rim must
be separated from the hub in order to replate.  And
according to the wheel shops, this separation process
will destroy either the hub or rim.  Thus requiring
two sets of wheels to make one set.  By the time
you add all this up, it's most likely going go be
cheaper to purchase a new set from Specialty
Wheel, Stockton Wheel, etc.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 19:57:21 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: seat belts

Checked out Ssnake-Oyl Inc. for seat belts for my 71 4-4-2.  $185 per
passenger for front bucket belts with retractors. Have mercy!!  'Thought this
was a clear case of gouging until I spoke with Brothers who brought up a
liability problem that prohibits them from even selling them.  I could do the
salvage thing but then would probably have to go back to Ssnake Oyl for
reconditioning.  Or the Year One deal but they show retractables discontinued.
Any other options you guys are aware of??

Scott

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 20:02:48 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Tranny?? Oh No!!

'Had a strange event. It's happened twice so far (in about 600 miles and a
month of occasional driving), both times after turning onto a highway and
increasing speed. Both times on short trips. 'Seems to move to neutral, as I
can hear the engine revving (smooth as silk), but no speed increase. Problem
goes away fairly quickly with no bucks or noises.  On a recent 300 mile ride,
it didn't happen at all.  Any clues or shared experiences??  Also, a mechanic
told me that the car would start easier (a little rough when cold) if it's in
neutral rather than park. HUH?

Scott
71 4-4-2 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 20:08:34 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Good bodywork books?

>I have started the bodywork on my 1972 Cutlass and was wondering if there
is any good books I should use to assist me?


Petersen's "Basic Body Work and Painting". 1970's vintage stuff, but still
applicable.
Actually, any book you can find at the car parts stores is probably
adequate.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 17:10:32 -0700
From: "Corey Day" <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RE: 455 Cam's

Jim-

Do you prefer the W-31 cam over the 68 H/O/Toronado split duration cam?

Corey D.

dayc@ix.netcom.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Jim & Joanne
> Chermack
> Sent: Thursday, October 01, 1998 1:44 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 455 Cam's
>
>
> Blaine
>
>     Put a W-31 cam in it if you want to drive it with power
> brakes. Makes a
> load of power and still has a nice sounding idle without
> effecting the power
> brakes. Pulls hard past 6000 RPM with lots of bottm end torque.
>
> Jim Chermack
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: B. Sanders <blaines@strata3d.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Thursday, October 01, 1998 4:35 PM
> Subject: 455 Cam's
>
>
> >I'm thinking about installing a hotter cam in my 455.  It's a '69 455
> >w/10.25:1 compression.  I think I would like to put in a W-30 cam.  If I
> did
> >that, would I have to change anything else in my engine (besides new
> >lifters)?  I don't want to have to change a bunch of stuff.  I've never
> >swapped cams, so I don't know these things...
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Blaine
> >
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 17:19:17 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: seat belts

Liability is the reason my interior shop won't sew them up for me.

to the boneyard we go....


cf

> -----Original Message-----
> From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com [mailto:CPEARLPARK@aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, October 01, 1998 4:57 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: seat belts
>
>
> Checked out Ssnake-Oyl Inc. for seat belts for my 71 4-4-2.  $185 per
> passenger for front bucket belts with retractors. Have
> mercy!!  'Thought this
> was a clear case of gouging until I spoke with Brothers who
> brought up a
> liability problem that prohibits them from even selling them.
>  I could do the
> salvage thing but then would probably have to go back to
> Ssnake Oyl for
> reconditioning.  Or the Year One deal but they show
> retractables discontinued.
> Any other options you guys are aware of??
>
> Scott
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 20:20:45 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Pinging

>Preignition and Detonation are two different animals, no matter what sound
>they might make. Caused by similar conditions, (sometimes), one is an
>annoyance, the other is serious. Have to stick by my guns on this one.

I read the same thing somewhere. Regardless, ~any~ engine knock is
potentially destructive to your motor.

A couple of worthwhile web pages on the subject:

http://www.felpro.com/Aftermarket/pro/seal/seal-1196-94.htm

http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html


drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 20:21:41 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Ignition kill switch

Greg Rollin wrote:
>
> All this talk of ignition kill switches raises
> one question in my mind.  Installing a on/off
> switch in the positive coil wire seems moot.
> Because when the car is hot wired, this
> switch will have in effect been bypassed.
> Thereby serving no purpose.

Of course, if you've upgraded to an HEI, all you need to do is put the
kill switch in line on the 12V lead to the distributor.

- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 19:32:39 +0300
From: john schiffman <joschiff@flash.net>
Subject: Re: 69 442 grilles

Mine are black.  All original.

Thanks

'69 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 20:29:58 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: Arrrgh! 2-Jet Rochesters!

I've got a #7026053 Rochester from my 67 Cutlass 330 that might be
coming up for sale next week.  (I'll know on Sunday whether I have a new
4 barrel set up or not)  Just a thought....I try not to have too many

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 20:30:12 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Where to hide an alarm switch (Was Re: Alarms)

<Snip>> Time for a quick summary of possible places on the dash to hide an
ignition kill switch, and their drawbacks:

Sorry Greg + all, can't resist.

How about the power door locks. What thief would think to lock himself into
the car he's trying to steal. Besides, It doesn't hurt to lock yourself in.
Especially with all that claimed road rage going on. Not to mention the bump
and snatch scams.

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
gjcouse@francomm.com
  
1986 Custom Cutlass Brougham = "Quincy"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 20:33:18 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: outer wheel well

I need a drivers side rear outer wheel well for my 67 Cutlass
Convertible...The only catalogue I can find around here is a Brothers
ca. 1995...anybody got any idea if this is a common repro part, or am I
gonna have to try to pull one off of Bill's car?

art

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 19:55:19 +0300
From: john schiffman <joschiff@flash.net>
Subject: Re: seat belts

When we bought a full sized GMC van (1993) from our local dealer, we
found the driver belt fell across my wife at the wrong position (she's
only 5' 2") and the dealer said he could get a GM built "extension" so
she could have proper belt placement.

The belt came back to the dealer in about 6 weeks and it looked just
like a regular seat belt stitching and all.

Check to see if your GM dealer would do you a favor (for a price).

Good luck.

'69 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 17:41:01 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: funny sound

My 84 88 DRB 307 did the same thing and I had to change the fuel pump
shortly after it started.  I don't know if these two ocurences really
could be connected, but the humming stopped after the new pump was in.
go figure...

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA
- -
On Thu, 1 Oct 1998 08:37:52 -0400 "FRANK MONTERO" <parc@erols.com>
writes:
>My 85 442 make a loud humming sound as you drive past 40mph. It only
>does it
>when the gas is being applied. Once you release the gas it stops until
>you
>reapply it again. I can't quite put my finger on what it is? Any
>ideas?
>
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 17:44:07 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Car Alarms >>Kinda Long

agreed

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA
- -
On Thu, 1 Oct 1998 11:19:35 -0400 Padavano.Joe@orbital.com writes:
>I've been ignoring the car alarm thread, but I think I've got to add
>my
>$0.02.
>
>Show of hands.  How many list members have been in a parking lot when
>a car
>alarm went off?  How many did anything about it?
>
>My point is, I seriously doubt that an alarm does anything other than
>annoy
>people.  I would consider spending the money instead on a good
>antitheft
>device like a kill switch, fuel shutoff, or other disabling device.
>Another item I've seen is a hardened steel collar that covers the
>steering
>column ignition lock, making it virtually impossible to use a slide
>hammer
>to break out the lock.  This one has the advantage of being a visual
>deterrent as well as a real one.  I've also heard excellent comments
>about
>LoJack.
>
>If you feel that an alarm has deterrent properties, just get a set of
>decals and a flashing LED (see Andy Green description of the hookup).
>This
>probably has 95% of the value of an alarm for 5% of the cost.  Plus,
>it
>won't add to noise pollution.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>
>
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 21:08:27 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Alarms)

Ray's ideas for kill switches:

- --A momentary switch mounted under the carpet, ie. not visible, that
needs to be pressed with foot in order to engage the starter.

- --Using a cruise control stalk in a non-cruise vehicle in which the
actions above are the same but using the accelleration button instead

- --A connection that is completed through your (human, not car) body by
touching two objects at the same time and allowing the starter to engage
for a short period of time.  This is what I'm using, and it is the most
incognito I think.

- --In a race car, having a switch panel in which all the switches are
wired in series so that only one combination of on/off positions will
allow the car to start.  With an eight switch panel, there is only one
chance in 256 that the switches will be in the right position.  This
isn't a great one, but the theory can be adapted to work in other ways
I'm sure...

- --and for those of us with keyless entry, using a headlight trigger to
activate a solenoid that would allow power to go to the starter.  After
unlocking the car, you'd have one minute to start it, as is the average
time that the headlights would stay on...

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA
- -

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 20:54:41 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: 72 convertible sitting and rotting

Last summer I saw a 72(?, maybe 71) Cutlass convertible sitting for sale.
 I checked the car out and took it for a drive.  It has some rust, but
not too bad, new top with new hole.  Motor for top does not work,
interior needs work, etc....It's a restorable car, basically.
 When I asked the guy how much he wanted, he said $5000!!!!   He must be
nuts, but point is, that was a year ago and I just drove by and saw the
car still sitting.  Hopefully he has realized that he won't be getting
that money from anyone!  Just thought I'd let you all know.

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA
- -

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 20:57:44 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Alarms)

On Thu, 01 Oct 1998 14:14:23 PDT "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
writes:
>>> You betcha. You can also hide it in plain sight
>>
>> I've always liked a push-on,push-off switch built into the
>> cigarette lighter (though you then need another power source
>> for the radar detector/cell phone/video game/etc).
>
>Time for a quick summary of possible places on the dash to hide
>an ignition kill switch, and their drawbacks:
>
>ITEM          Disadvantage:
>====          =============
>GLOVEBOX      Have to leave glovebox hanging open while driving; risk
>LIGHT SWITCH  of McDonald's ketchup packets all over front seat after
>              brisk acceleration
>
>LIGHTER       Must keep pressed in while driving; risk of third-degree
>              burns, dashboard meltdown
>
>REAR DEFOG    Have to keep pressing button every ten minutes or timer
>              switches engine off
>
>WIPERS        Constantly squeaking wipers on windshield in dry
>              weather; have to keep wipers on high or engine runs
>              too slow
>
>HIGH BEAMS    Must travel only in funeral processions to avoid tickets
>
>HORN          Gunfire from motorist in front
>
>TAPE PLAYER   Have to turn up volume in order to increase speed;
>              risk of deafness at highway speeds or stalling if
>              passenger accidentally hits MUTE button
>
>TURN SIGNAL   Must keep driving in circles
>
>Have I missed any?
>
>-- Andy
>
>HA HA HA!______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 20:46:19 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: junkyard

>Ray,
>I need some grey interior parts for my 87 442 notice any G bodies at
>the U-
>pull salvage yard? Hoping not to make the trip for nothing
>Thanx
>John- Queens N.Y.
>JJP442@aol.com
>1983 H/O
>1987 442
I was there looking for seats, console, and column for my grey interior
87.  I found nothing.
All the bucket seats and consoles were gone from the g-body's.
Shifterless columns were all gone also.  It depends on what you need,
beyond this.

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA
- -

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 20:50:04 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: junkyard

There weren't any 87's there, so no *vertical* pull straps.  Unless 4
door versions have the same strap?
That pad piece was in lots of cars.  I don't remember grey specifically,
but I replaced one of those in my 81 Cutlass and just painted it to match
with vynil paint.  That's always an option, but getting the color to
match perfectly probably isn't possible, so...
I'd say it's worth a drive out there if you don't think it's too ffar.

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA
- -
>
>Sman
>I need the drivers side pull vertical pull strap and the rectangular
>dash
>pad.(the piece that goes form the left a/c vent to the middle vent
>over the
>a/c controls).
>both 87 olds grey.
>Any help,
>John-Queens N.Y.
>JJP442@aol.com
>1983 H/O
>1987 442
>
>--part0_907224950_boundary--
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 20:51:20 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Wash D.C. Area Junkyards?

        Hi All,

        I've lived in the D.C. area for just over a year now (and have
just about a year and a half left) and am getting the junkin' itch
again.  Anyone know of good yards in this area?  I'm looking
specifically for my '71 Cutlass S.  I'm partial to yards that allow
customers to pull their own parts.
Right now, I'm kind of looking for the correct Q-Jet for my car.
Anyway, any help is appreciated.

        Thomas P. Smith
        1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 21:56:52 -0400
From: wolfwoman98@monad.net
Subject: Exhaust FYI

Hi Oldsmolist People,

With the on again/off again discussion of how much exhaust is enough/too
much/not enough, it got me thinking, so I did some research.  Take it
for what it's worth, and do what you want with it......Just thought I'd
share what I learned.

Determining Necessary Exhaust Flow:

    Engine HP x 2.2 = Loss free air flow capacity needed for single
muffler system.  For Duals, divide the single system number by 2 to
determine loss free air flow capacity needed for each muffler.

    EX:  300 hp x 2.2 = 660 SCFM*  for single OR 330 SCFM for Duals.

    * SCFM = Standard Cubic Feet per Minute

    Based on Dynomax Racing Series Mufflers -
    2 1/4" inside dia. both ends, oval muffler, 19" overall length, 323
SCFM for Duals and 646 SCFM for single.

    2 1/2 inside  both ends, oval muffler, 19" overall, 515 SCFM for
Duals, 1030 SCFM for single.

    3" inside both ends, oval muffler, 19" overall, 1000 SCFM for Duals,
2000 SCFM for single.

    Based on Dynomax Street Series UltraFlow Universal Muffs
    2" inside, oval muff, 19" overall,  318 SCFM for Duals, 636 SCFM for
single.

    2 1/4" inside,  Oval muff, 19" overall, 455 (cool!) SCFM Duals, 910
single.

    2 1/2" inside, oval muff, 19" overall, 489 SCFM Duals, 978 SCFM
single.

If anyone has questions I *might* be able to answer, or is interested in
Dynomax part numbers to go to the local parts store to purchase, or
cross over into another make, feel free to email me direct.  I'll get
back to you as soon as I can.

Just thought I'd give you all an FYI.

Happy Olds-ing.

Stephani
and
Roket  1971 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 17:45:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Should I buy?  (G-body price q)

Could this car possibly be Ch*vy powered? :)


- ---Ben <olds442@primenet.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> > >I know for sure that it is between 84-88
> > >Built 350 (Edelbrock heads, carb, etc...)
>
> I'd be very leary of the car. If they say Edelbrock heads, you
better double and
> triple check the heads. I think there are only 3 of us on the list
that have them
> out of the 20 in the world currently out there. And then, why buy
them and wait
> almost a year for them just to turn around and sell the car? I'd be
asking some
> seriouse questions. If he's selling it for only 850, he does not
have edelbrock
> heads that retail at $1437.00 So, if  you know your stuff probe real
deep into the
> car, if you aren't... Take a friend who is good at identifying parts
>
>

==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 17:54:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Olds, Non Olds

- ---Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net> wrote:
>
> To All,
> Thanks for the help and the understanding replies, Weds I was almost
in
> clinical depression. We think we can repair the grille on the 75.
Bought
> the Sonoma, still made by GM, Saw a fine 91 Fo*d Ranger, was
actually nicer than the GMC I bought. Same price, more goodies, turned
it down, does that make me a TRUE PURIST or just Stupid? I'm happy.
Still have a Rocket emblem from a 1953 Super 88 dad had. Going to put
it on the tailgate.

- ------Hehe....sounds like another W-10 in the works.....:)For those
that don't get that we built an S-10 with a Bravada nose and slight
cosmetic changes( like OLDS.... across the tailgate), and 15"
SSIII's....
       Funny at the shows....people kept saying "I never knew they
made a pickup" :)
             Sman

==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 17:59:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Tapes of the Olds show from speed vision.

- ---Kerry,
     When you get the first batch ready send me one please....in the
mean time, send me your address so I can send you some money....also
let me know for sure how much....
              Thanks,
                    John (Sman)




- ---Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com> wrote:
>
> let me know privately how many of you want a copy and then I will
run the
> copies they will be labled and on a standard vhs  ntsc format tape
> sorry cant do PAL anymore tapes should run about 3-4 dollars edited no
> commercial interuptions should be about 20 minutes the show with
commercials
> was only 30 minutes ............the cost includes shipping....kk
>
>

==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 21:05:41 -0500
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: RE: G-Body.Org now has a Representative for Cutlass!!!

John McJunkin wrote:
	
	---------Me and Tupper are already there...and Jason A...We can
out
	number the others though....:>

	I just checked at www.g-body.org <http://www.g-body.org>  and my
Olds is the G-body of the week.  Cool...

	Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
	Columbus, MS         1987 442

	http://www.442.com/newman.html
	http://www.442.com/newmantape.html
	

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 18:54:10 -0700
From: "Mike Jones" <mike@gleep.com>
Subject: Re:Gage Clusters for Delta 88s

> On Wed, 30 Sep 1998, Frederick S. Nissen wrote:
> > A few additional notes on this swap:
> > - Factory gauge package was first offered on '78 models.
>
> I saw one in a yarde recently that had a single vacuum/economy gauge on
> the right side of the column. Didn't take it because the woodgrain panel
> surround was faded beyond use. Don't know what years these were offered;
> this car was a '77 or '78 I think. Wonder how rare this is?
>
GET IT!  Well, if it is working (still would be neat to have even if it was
not functioning).  I have heard that the fuel economy gauge was a '78-only
option, and hard to come by.  I have only seen ONE functioning gauge, no
housings ever.  I'd grab both, you never know when someone is restoring a
car that came with it and needs another part...   I've seen woodgrain
material on a plastic backing, don't know how hard that would be to re-do.

> > - Also note that the woodgrain pattern changed in '80 (grab the RH
panel
> > as well unless you don't mind a mismatch.)
>
Yeah, found this out.. Got another complete gage cluster and panel, but
woodgrain is mismatched.  Gauges also have the symbols for volts, water and
oil on their faces, while mine don't.  The other temp gage goes to 280
degrees, however.

> '80 and up panels are easier to find here, by far. But there's also a
> problem, which is:
>
> > - If you have cruise control and / or a rear defogger on a '77 model
> > (some mid '80s cars also have this problem) the switches may have to be
> > relocated as the factory put them next to the steering coulmn where the
> > gauge panel wants to be.  Get a RH panel with the appropriate cut outs.
>
> This is very tough to find as there are many variations of this panel --
> cutouts for none, one, two or three switches, and the possibility of a
> hole for a RH remote mirror as well.
>
Mine only has one cut-out (cruise control).  Would be neat to grab a 2 or 3
switch module and the panel, and wire one of the switches for say, a kill
switch and maybe a power kill for an electric fuel pump.  Would look stock
and thieves (if they DO choose to steal the car) would have no clue to why
it wouldn't run.

Some early diesel equipped cars have a panel with an extra hole cut in it
for a "Water in Fuel" light mounted inbetween the climate control switches
and the clock (if so equipped).  I bought one of these panels (including
the light and 18' of wiring that led to the fuel tank) and used it for my
RH side.  This way, I have my stock panels and I can take the current
panels (which I painted the chrome edging gloss grey and the chrome on the
inset parts flat black) and cut it up for a stereo head unit (since it has
the hole, its resale value is nil).  Took out the light of course (not
needed).

> Mike J., it was real neat to see pics of a '78 non-Royale Delta on the
> web. I must put some pics of mine up there too someday. Is there a
> homepage for yours too or are these pics standalone?
>

Thanks :)  don't get many compliments from anyone around here, except my
friends who absolutely love the car (have a friend that owns an '83 98 4
door, was his parents but my '78 inspried him to buy it from them  :)  Yes,
there is a page devoted to it.  http://www.gleep.com/users/mjones/olds.htm


The photos are quite old (December '97) and the mileage is creeping towards
100k (It should turn over next month at my current driving rate).  Those
pics were taken in August, and as you could tell, I messed up on re-sizing
the background that the pictures laid on (the black areas)


Frank, thank you for posting your knowedge on swapping the gauge packages
into our cars.  The info you listed totally skipped my mind while I was
writing the message.


Mike Jones
'78 Delta 88 (350/TH350)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 21:57:36 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust FYI

> If anyone has questions I *might* be able to answer, or is interested in
> Dynomax part numbers to go to the local parts store to purchase, or
> cross over into another make, feel free to email me direct.  I'll get
> back to you as soon as I can.
>
> Just thought I'd give you all an FYI.

Thanks for the info.  Now I wonder, if you have a G-body H/O, or 442, at
180 horsepower, you get 396 scfm for single, or 198 for duals.  Since
you have a single exhaust type system, (catalytic converter which splits
OUT into two mufflers), I would assume you would need to figure in that
both mufflers would be considered as one for calculations?  By the way,
it's a 2.25" system.  As with any split system, you would be reducing
backpressure considerably by this method, thereby freeing up a couple of
horsepower for sure.  Any input on this?

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 22:04:05 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: G-Body.Org now has a Representative for Cutlass!!!

On Thursday, October 01, 1998 10:06 PM, Doug Newman [SMTP:newmand@wcbi.com]
wrote: > > 	I just checked at www.g-body.org <http://www.g-body.org>  
and my >
Olds is the G-body of the week.  Cool...

And fine lookin' it is!  I hope mine shows up there soon...

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 22:08:28 EDT
From: Cutw29@aol.com
Subject: 72 cutlass 's' exhaust system

What would be a good exhaust system for my 72' cutlass 's' . Right now it has
single exhaust and I want it to sound really toned and mean.  I only have a
350 in it, which I am looking to rebuild.  Thank you

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 22:17:24 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: Car Alarms >>Kinda Long

Joe,
 The purpose of all that noise is to deter the thief from
spending time on your vehicle. No one may do any thing
about the noise but it does attract attention. If you were
a thief would you stick around?

Kevin White

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 22:15:10 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: 72 cutlass 's' exhaust system

> What would be a good exhaust system for my 72' cutlass 's' . Right now it has
> single exhaust and I want it to sound really toned and mean.  I only have a
> 350 in it, which I am looking to rebuild.  Thank you

I suggest if you want MEAN sounding exhaust, and don't care if the cops
follow you, then without a doubt, use Flowmaster's.  Otherwise, try
Dynomax turbo mufflers for a mellow rumble, that won't shake the
neighbor's windows like Flowmaster's! (Real story.  Happened to me.)

Of course, you'll need a dual exhaust system.  You can either have one
made up by a local shop, or go to a parts store, like a Parts PLUS if
you have one available, and they can hook you right up.  But unless you
have a cutout bumper, get the tailpipes that turn down in the back,
otherwise...bump!

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Oct 1998 22:22:38 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Would the owner of the "Olds-Mo-Ch*vy"

Please contact me privately.
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 22:30:16 EDT
From: MFATZII@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds, Non Olds

In a message dated 10/1/98 8:44:32 PM Central Daylight Time,
super442@yahoo.com writes:

<<
 ------Hehe....sounds like another W-10 in the works.....:)For those
 that don't get that we built an S-10 with a Bravada nose and slight
 cosmetic changes( like OLDS.... across the tailgate), and 15"
 SSIII's....
        Funny at the shows....people kept saying "I never knew they
 made a pickup" :)
              Sman >>



I saw one of those here in Lincoln, Nebraska believe it of not !! not sure
about the wheels  but the front end was deffinately a bravada  front end and
the rest of "it" was an S-10. It was painted an aqua green.  The person that
has it has a beefed up Suburban, another street rod (almost a T bucket) and
another car called the Peach Pit.  Pretty cool car painted Peach with a nice
sound system......I know that none are Olds but the pickup had me stumped for
quite a while.    Maybe you did this one??


Ryan

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1524
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