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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1594


oldsmobile-digest      Sunday, November 8 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1594



Re: Carburetor Question
Re: Emissions  307 vs 403
Re: New Member/please help
Re: Olds/Porsche
Re: Carburetor Question
Re: New Member/please help
Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal
Re: Carburetor Question
Re: Emissions  307 vs 403
Help - Rear End Color ?
RE: Carburetor Question
Re: november jwo
SS Wheel ID?
Re: Carburetor Question
Re: Carburetor Question
Re: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal
Re: Carburetor Question
E Brake cable.
67 442 For Sale
Re: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal
RE: Carburetor Question
Re: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal
1966 Cutlass Parts
Re: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal
my new car
Re: Carburetor Question
Re: SS Wheel ID?
Re: Olds/Porsche
Re: 69ho.com
Re: my new car
Re: Olds/Porsche
Re: my new car
Re: my new car
Re: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal
Re: SS Wheel ID?
Rochester Carburetor Question... Epilogue?
Re: 1969 W-32
Yarde-ing... (return to Harmon's)
Re: Might be 307 after all...so.......
RE: Olds/Porsche
Ox sender signal
Re: Might be 307 after all...so.......
G-Body Org update
Re: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal
K&N Running Lean?
Re: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal
Re: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal
Re: Flowmasters for a 330?
Re: 1969 W-32
RE: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal
Re: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal
Re: K&N Running Lean?
Re: 403
re: 3.0 V/6 to 3.8 swap
Re: Flowmasters for a 330?
Re: Flowmasters for a 330?
Re: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal
MOTOR MOUNTS...AGAIN

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 18:47:31 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Carburetor Question

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>


>Can anyone please identify the following Quadrajet carb for me:
>
>17057253
>E-mail: jadcock@vt.edu
>http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock
>
Carb is from a 1977 Olds 350  VIN code "R" RPO code L-34.  My references
indicate Cutlass, 88, 98 and wagons with A/C  - all except California and
high alitiude.  Contrary to a prior post, this carb was used on automatic
trans cars.
Regards,
Fred
OCA 16246
1977 Delta 88 Town Sedan
1977 98 Regency Coupe
1978 Delta 88 Royale Coupe
1979 98 LS Coupe
1969 98 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 18:49:43 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Emissions  307 vs 403

- -----Original Message-----
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com <RCKTPWR@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, November 07, 1998 6:40 PM
Subject: Emissions 307 vs 403


>I m very curious, how do u think a fresh 403 would be compared to a fresh
>307??  Id really like to put the 403 in my 86,442. Im just very concerned
>about passing emission here in Jersey. How could I clean up the emissions
>anyway?  Better Ignition??
>
>TIA
>
>Bernie
>

My 77 Delta 88 403 passed VA emissions cleaner than my dad's 1992 Buick.
You may have to "retune"  a bit to get through, but it should not be a
problem.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 20:09:51 -0200
From: BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: New Member/please help

My noise problem is gone.  I went outside today and opened the hood.  I
noticed that the belt was worn down to nothing--that's probably what
caused it to squeal, which caused me to overtighten it, which caused the
bearings to shoot craps.  At any rate, the belt got cut right off, since
I was going to have to replace it anyway.  I didn't even have to start
the car.  One quick spin of the pulley gave the telltale bearing chatter
that I had been hearing, so no more air pump for the Cutlass, at least
until 2000 when I have to pass New Jersey emissions testing (rotten
state).  I got a carb from a junkyard for $17.  If nothing else, I can
use it to find my way around Q-jets for future reference.  Any ideas or
suggestions abnout rebuilding this thing, or even getting it clean
enough to try putting on my car?  The car ran fine, only needed a timing
chain, so I suppose it shouldn't be heavily damaged, and the air cleaner
was still on it (a definite plus)
thanks, 
Brian.


Mike Rothe. wrote:
> 
> > It has a 307 with the standard 4 bbl. carb.  the engine has 135k
> > miles on it but the trans is new.  For some reason, I only get 11 mpg on
> > the highway and I shudder to think about my city mpg.
> >
> First, there is a DEFINITE problem here.  One thing that you can do,
> before anything else, is check your trouble codes that may be stored in
> the ECM (computer).  Easy to check.  First, ground the test circuit by
> using a paper clip, or small wire to jumper out the connections under
> the dash.  The test plug is located under the radio on the bottom of the
> dash.  It is a two-row electrical plug.  This part is important!  The
> place you need to "short" out by connecting the wire to is THE UPPER TWO
> RIGHT terminal holes.  With the wire connecting these two, then turn the
> ignition to "ON" but do not start the car.  Then watch the "check
> engine" light for a series of flashes.  The cycle will repeat itself as
> long as it's like this.  So, under NORMAL conditions, you will get a
> code of 12 (means the test circuit within the computer is fine), which
> is one flash, followed by two quick flashes.  Then a pause, then one
> flash, followed by two quick flashes...and so forth.  The ONE and the
> TWO make up 1 and 2, which is code 12.  See how this works?
> 
> Check the numbers.  I'll bet a dime to a donut your MC solenoid is
> crapped out, and quite possibly the TPS too.  But that's just an initial
> guess.  Could also be the ECM itself.  Either way, check this and if you
> figure out which numbers flash, then we can help out with what the
> computer is telling you.  This doesn't mean that the flashes will find
> everything that may be wrong, since some "soft" problems go away when
> the engine is turned off, and only appear intermittently.  These are the
> tough ones to find.
> 
> If this seems like an experiment in fear, then I suggest you take it to
> a reputable GM dealer and have them "analyze" it for you.  Around 50
> bucks, but they can tell you more than the flash codes will.
> 
> > Would it be possible to have maybe rinsed
> > the grease out of a bearing somewhere?
> 
> Very possible.  You have to ensure you wrap the alternator and the
> distributor with some sort of waterproof wrapping before hosing an
> engine down.  Also, some of the terminals vital to computer operation
> could get wet as well, and you know what happens then...
> 
> The squealing sounds to ME like an alternator bearing has been washed
> clean.  Clean is good, except in the bearing's case.  Only one sure way
> to fix that, and that's either disassemble the alternator and replace
> the faulty component(s), or replace it with a new one.  Take the belt
> off for the alternator first.  I'll bet that's your culprit.
> 
> Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 18:17:03 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Olds/Porsche

Great looking stuff, 
Unfortunately, I still work for a living, isn't that a darn shame, wonder
if Bill Gates would help me out on the 67 442. Somehow, I doubt it. I did
buy WIN 98. Still did not get an invite to the "Fish and Goose Dinner" at
the Estate.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

- ----------
> From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <tjacquillard@InfoAve.Net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Olds/Porsche
> Date: Saturday, November 07, 1998 5:32 PM
> 
> mbloomer wrote:
> > 
> > Yeow!  Followed thier link to thier US/Canada distributor.  They
mentioned
> > "affordable" so I checked out the prices.  The only link that worked
was for
> > BMW but they were in the $2700 range.  
> (snip)
> I followed the link through the international link and the kit they had
> listed for 'f' bodies was $2200. Still too rich for my blood. 
> T.J.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 19:06:53 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Carburetor Question

> Carb is from a 1977 Olds 350  VIN code "R" RPO code L-34.  My references
> indicate Cutlass, 88, 98 and wagons with A/C  - all except California and
> high alitiude.  Contrary to a prior post, this carb was used on automatic

        Fred,

        What references are you using?  I was going off of information in an
article in Muscle Car Review which indicated Q-Jet numbers that ended in an
odd number were used on manual trans.  If my info was faulty, I'd sure like
to be able to get my hands on the right stuff.  Thanks.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 19:19:04 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: New Member/please help

Rebuilding a Quadrajet is fairly easy...just go to your local autoparts store
and purchase a rebuild kit., follow the instructions(they are usually
comprehensive enough), and take your time. Chemtool makes a one gallon can of
carburetor cleaner with a basket that you put the parts in to let them
soak...these are very good to have. all of these things are readily available,
and total for kit and cleaner will be less than $50.

Collyn Eastham
65 Cutlass(442clone)
65 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 17:39:30 -0700
From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@hotmail.com>
Subject: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal

Hi Gang,

Does anyone have any suggestions for removing the upper control arm
bushings from a 1968 442 12-bolt rear end?

Thanks in advance,
Bob
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----
 Robert J. Lavey			mailto://rjlavey@hotmail.com
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.			Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302			Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 17:55:29 -0600
From: <barbw@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Carburetor Question

- --------------20A1978A6244FC7A002AFD7E
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Tom:

The Brothers Automotive website, www.oldsparts.com, shows  #17057253 for
a 1977 350 with air, but doesnt specify what transmission goes with any
of the model numbers for 1977.

Barb



Thomas P. Smith wrote:

> Jason Adcock wrote:
>
> > Can anyone please identify the following Quadrajet carb for me:
> >
> > 17057253
> >
> > I got it out of a junkyard this afternoon, but off a shelf, so I
> > don't know the origin.  Thanks.
>
>         170--Rochester Products          57--1977
>             2--49 State application, i.e., non-California
>             5--Oldsmobile
>             3--Manual Transmission (not sure which one, though)
>
> --
> Thomas P. Smith
> 1971 Cutlass S 350
> smithtp@ix.netcom.com



- --------------20A1978A6244FC7A002AFD7E
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML>
Tom:

<P>The Brothers Automotive website, <I>www.oldsparts.com</I>, shows&nbsp;
#17057253 for a 1977 350 with air, but doesnt specify what transmission
goes with any of the model numbers for 1977.

<P>Barb
<BR>&nbsp;
<BR>&nbsp;

<P>Thomas P. Smith wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>Jason Adcock wrote:

<P>> Can anyone please identify the following Quadrajet carb for me:
<BR>>
<BR>> 17057253
<BR>>
<BR>> I got it out of a junkyard this afternoon, but off a shelf, so I
<BR>> don't know the origin.&nbsp; Thanks.

<P>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 170--Rochester 
Products&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
57--1977
<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
2--49 State application, i.e., non-California
<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
5--Oldsmobile
<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
3--Manual Transmission (not sure which one, though)

<P>--
<BR>Thomas P. Smith
<BR>1971 Cutlass S 350
<BR>smithtp@ix.netcom.com</BLOCKQUOTE>
&nbsp;</HTML>

- --------------20A1978A6244FC7A002AFD7E--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 19:51:39 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Emissions  307 vs 403

>>I m very curious, how do u think a fresh 403 would be compared to a fresh
>>307??  Id really like to put the 403 in my 86,442. Im just very concerned
>>about passing emission here in Jersey. How could I clean up the emissions
>>anyway?  Better Ignition??

Been asking those kinda questions around here myself. Same considerations
here in Ct.

Gotta keep all the emissions goodies that came with the 307. Electronic
carburetor, A.I.R. pump (functional), EGR valve, factory cat converter.
Gotta keep the computer. Better ignition might help even more.

A.I.R. tubes screw into the heads on an Olds, not into the manifolds
(Chevy's way is better). Some 403's and late 350's have the holes drilled
for them, but plugged with pipe fittings. That would be mandatory in my
choice of engine.

In process of researching this issue for my own someday swap. It's hard to
get definite answers on how clean a bigger engine can be made to be.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 19:04:11 -0600
From: Dan Williams <442much@plutonium.net>
Subject: Help - Rear End Color ?

>

I'm still looking for the answers.  However, I am now leaning towards the
rear being all natural metal colors.  If that is true, I assume the same of
the sway bar.

TIA,

- -Dan


>
>
> I have a question about the correct color of the rear end in my 68 442.
> I always assumed it was Semi or Gloss black for the rear diff and
> axles.  However, I have seen several painted natural.  I looked at an
> article in MCR by Jeff Lilly (June/July 97), about detailing a 67 442
> chassis, and the rear end is painted cast blast, with the axle housings
> being bare steel.  The article also mentions Curt Anderson as a National
> authority on 67 442s who aided in the resto.  According to How to
> Restore Your Muscle Car it lists gloss black as the correct color for
> the differential and Natural for the axles.  Both these sources are very
> respected people in the field.  I still tend to think the entire section
> should be Semi Gloss black.  Anybody know the answer?
>
> TIA,
>
> -Dan
> --
> Dan Williams                            442Much@plutonium.net
> Marion, IA                                     68 442 Convertible

- --
Dan Williams                            442Much@plutonium.net
Marion, IA                                     68 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 19:58:40 -0500
From: "<GJC> Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Carburetor Question

- -----Original Message-----
>What references are you using?  I was going off of information in an
article in Muscle Car Review which indicated Q-Jet numbers that ended in an
odd number were used on manual trans.  If my info was faulty, I'd sure like
to be able to get my hands on the right stuff.  Thanks.

<GJC>

So assuming that their is a normal progression of serial #'s, they pulled
every other one of the line destined to a manual Trans installation? Sorry
Tom. doesn't sound very plausible or cost efficient.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
 Purling, N.Y.
 12470-9709

ICQ# 5209322
 CC-IROC-SS
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

Couse Custom Cutlass,
'86 CC-IROC-SS-#1 = "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/~cousecustoms/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 20:15:11 EST
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: november jwo

wish i knew what was happening...when you pay for ist class you expect it....

didn't get my jwo either  olds guy    ga....

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 21:17:28 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: SS Wheel ID?


Was junqueyardeing today and came across a set of SS wheels I would like
to ID. Might buy 'em but I'm curious what these are from. 

Here's the description:

SSII/III style
15x7
chrome webs!
outside rims painted argent (I think; pretty faded though), designed to
use a trim ring
center caps missing but were a snap-in style 

What the heck would these have come from? Too bad the centers were
missing, I don't know if they were the typical style or the wider kind
used on some fullsizers.

Any idea what these are and when they were used?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 20:25:13 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Carburetor Question

Specific book I checked is a 1977 Olds shop manual.  I recognized it as a 77
carb , and one I had seen before (I am the local OCA Chapter's Quadrajet
advisor and have a lot of late '70's big Olds) but had to look at the book
to be sure.  FYI, I have found sources other than factory manuals to be
problematic at best.
Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 20:59:06 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Carburetor Question

Frederick Nissen wrote:

> Specific book I checked is a 1977 Olds shop manual. FYI, I have found sources
> other than factory manuals to be problematic at best.
> Regards,
> Fred

        Thanks.  Gotta get one.  BTW, to answer another post on this thread, I
quite agree that to have someone pulling every other carb to one trans, then
another isn't smart. That wasn't my point.  I always understood the carb ID
numbers to be more of a MODEL number than a SERIAL number.  Correct, Fred?
- --
Thomas P. Smith
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 18:20:35 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal

At 05:39 PM 11/7/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi Gang,
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions for removing the upper control arm
>bushings from a 1968 442 12-bolt rear end?
>
I used air hammer to get them out

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 21:42:27 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Carburetor Question

Gary,

The number on a Q-Jet Carb is a part number not a serial number.

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 22:02:17 EST
From: Joeytada@aol.com
Subject: E Brake cable.

List,   
  I changed the crossmemeber on my 75 H/O to a double humped one, off a 74
Cutlass, for dual exhaust.  My question is: Is the emergancy brake cable
different for this crossmember?  

Keith.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 22:08:18 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: 67 442 For Sale

This ad is from the current Autotrader, so the usual disclaimers apply.

1967 442 Holiday Coupe, solid body, good condition, matching #'s, $2,500
OBO or trade for snowmobile(s) or boat.  315 337-7805, ROME

I am not sure where exactly this is located, but I thought it looked
like a good price that someone might want to hear about.  The phone book
says the 315 area code is in the Syracuse/Utica part of New York.  

On a personal note, all people that value their cars might want to find
inside storage for them as it appears Kentucky's football team is going
to a bowl game this year after a win tonight.  As this generally causes
h@!! to freeze over when it occurs, you have been forewarned to protect
those Oldsmobiles we hold so dear.......

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 21:23:22 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal

1.  Tear car apart so you can get at bushing.
2.  Locate LARGE hammer and BIG punch.
3.  Wait for highly upsetting moment.
4.  Go out to car and relieve fustration.

Air chisel will also work if you have tendancy to hit thumb.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>Hi Gang,
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions for removing the upper control arm
>bushings from a 1968 442 12-bolt rear end?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Bob
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -
>----
> Robert J. Lavey mailto://rjlavey@hotmail.com
> 13243 W. Dahlia Dr. Home:  (208) 939-5418
> Boise, ID  83713-1302 Fax:   (208) 939-5452
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -
>----
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 22:56:39 -0500
From: "<GJC> Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Carburetor Question

I stand corrected. I didn't realize that at the time... But that is why I
included the first line: "So assuming that their is a normal progression of
serial #'s"

Sorta tried to cover my but, and I apologize to any offended be my Q-Jet
infancy...

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
 Purling, N.Y.
 12470-9709

ICQ# 5209322
 CC-IROC-SS
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

Couse Custom Cutlass,
'86 CC-IROC-SS-#1 = "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/~cousecustoms/

Join Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List -
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody

Once a member, post to:
mailto:olds_gbody@listbot.com


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Mark Hahn
Sent: Saturday, November 07, 1998 9:42 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Carburetor Question


Gary,

The number on a Q-Jet Carb is a part number not a serial number.

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 22:42:27 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal

Does anyone have any suggestions for removing the upper control arm
bushings from a 1968 442 12-bolt rear end?

Thanks in advance,
Bob
_________

Not having an air hammer, I usually burn the rubber out with a torch (a
propane torch will work, but takes longer than an oxycetelene).  It's messy
and smelly, but once the rubber is burned out, you just dent the remaining
shell of the bushing in with a hammer and they pop right out.  This works
on any suspension bushings.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 23:15:50 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: 1966 Cutlass Parts

I need body parts for my 66 cutlass 2dr. ALL PLEASE VISIT MY OLDS WEBPAGE AT
www.angelfire.com/Olds442z/index.html (the caps are important, or else it wont
work)
thanks
kelly erickson
Shoreline wa
Im 14 years old too :)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 22:12:46 -0600
From: Shang <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal

> Not having an air hammer, I usually burn the rubber out with a torch (a
> propane torch will work, but takes longer than an oxycetelene).  It's messy
> and smelly, but once the rubber is burned out, you just dent the remaining
> shell of the bushing in with a hammer and they pop right out.  This works
> on any suspension bushings.
> 
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
____________________

I have applied this same method to remove bushings with one small
change. I drilled small holes in the rubber until the center sleeve came
out and I could force the rest of the bushing out. Probably slower than
a torch, but works extremely well.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 23:17:34 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: my new car

hey i went and got my car today.  as i previously mentioned, it's a 70 442
w/ram air, spoiler, and 4.11 gears.  boy those gears do suck for daily
driving.  while driving the car home alot of people were looking at my new
car.  one guy even asked me how much i was asking.  i told him 4000 because i
just paid 2200.  the car is only missing about 4 things.  the origional radio,
ram air cleaner, fan and shroud, and rear gears.  the car is very agressive
from stoplight to stoplight.  the block is stamped f and the heads are j's.
is this correct for 70's?  sorry, but i am a little new at this big block
thing, which i already like.  the body does have some work done to it, but it
was all done semi-professionally.  i am going to leave the exterrior of the
car alone for a while.  the interrior is going to need mostly replacing.
everything is there, but most of it is green, which was the origional color of
the car.  tuesday i will be putting a 2.56 rear end it.  the 4.11 is just too
much for daily driving.  i was very impressed when i looked at the origional
clock as it was still ticking.  well i guess my day was pretty good.  now all
i have to do is figure out a way to repay my parents.

mikeytvb@aol.com
70 442 w/455

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 23:20:32 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Carburetor Question

Gary,

Offended? Hardly.
The truth will set you free.
Knowledge is the key.
Oh, and don't forget.......learn from your mistakes. (been there done
that)

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 23:27:48 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: SS Wheel ID?

Greg,

The post-77 88's had chrome SS wheels, I have a set I got off of a 78 I parted
out.  They used the large center cap that covered up the lug nuts and a trim
ring.

OK, that's my story and I'm sticking to it......

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
ks7racing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 00:12:09 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds/Porsche

Listmembers,

Here's my take on the equipment pictured on the web site:

1) Coil-over shocks are available from several US manufacturers (I recommend
ProShocks, we use them on our stock car) and springs can be purchased in many
different rates (I use Afco on the stock car, and their rates are available in
many different lengths, so you can tailor the rate and the length you need) so
these don't have to be that expensive, although they will cost more than the
typical shock and spring setup.

2) Cross-drilled rotors will crack easier and will wear pads out even quicker
than non-drilled rotors.  Most manufacturers will not recommend cross-drilling
rotors.  If you want to spend the bucks on seperate rotors and hubs, again
racing fabricators can set you up with just about anything you need.  I
recommend Coleman Machine, they have a very comprehensive catalog and
reasonable prices.  Check them out at:
http://www.shorttrack.com/coleman

3) the fancy brake calipers are just fixed 4-piston units, and these type of
calipers are available from Coleman for around $185.00 each.  They do offer
the advantage of pistons clamping on both sides of the rotor, but our stock
car that operates on a fairly demanding asphalt oval (brakewise) will do just
fine on a set of their floating single-piston units that retail out for $80.00
each with cooling ducts from the front of the car attached to the spindle.

These are definite improvements, but I'd be willing to bet you can accomplish
the same results with good 'ol US parts at a lot less.

Just a penny from me (inflation corrected), Take Care!
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
ks7racing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 00:42:42 EST
From: Socalolds@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69ho.com

Jon,
Great site I also enjoyed it. Wanted to add my recent spotted H/Os to the
spotted list but had no reply. When will it be up so I can add my .02c.?
Thanks 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 00:37:34 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: my new car

"J" heads were emission heads. I believe they are from a 1973-1976 car. I
know FOR SURE that "J" heads were not available in 1970 -71-and 72. In
"stock" from "J" heads flowed the worst.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: my new car
> Date: Saturday, November 07, 1998 10:17 PM
> 
> hey i went and got my car today.  as i previously mentioned, it's a 70
442
> w/ram air, spoiler, and 4.11 gears.  boy those gears do suck for daily
> driving.  while driving the car home alot of people were looking at my
new
> car.  one guy even asked me how much i was asking.  i told him 4000
because i
> just paid 2200.  the car is only missing about 4 things.  the origional
radio,
> ram air cleaner, fan and shroud, and rear gears.  the car is very
agressive
> from stoplight to stoplight.  the block is stamped f and the heads are
j's.
> is this correct for 70's?  sorry, but i am a little new at this big block
> thing, which i already like.  the body does have some work done to it,
but it
> was all done semi-professionally.  i am going to leave the exterrior of
the
> car alone for a while.  the interrior is going to need mostly replacing.
> everything is there, but most of it is green, which was the origional
color of
> the car.  tuesday i will be putting a 2.56 rear end it.  the 4.11 is just
too
> much for daily driving.  i was very impressed when i looked at the
origional
> clock as it was still ticking.  well i guess my day was pretty good.  now
all
> i have to do is figure out a way to repay my parents.
> 
> mikeytvb@aol.com
> 70 442 w/455

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 22:24:48 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Olds/Porsche

KS7RACING@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Listmembers,

> <snip>

> Here's my take on the equipment pictured on the web site:
> These are definite improvements, but I'd be willing to bet you can accomplish
> the same results with good 'ol US parts at a lot less.
> 
> Just a penny from me (inflation corrected), Take Care!
> Ken Snyder
> Kansas City, Kansas
> ks7racing@aol.com


Ken,
Very good points.  And as you and several others have
pointed out, their stuff is a bit on the pricey side to
say the least!  But rather than posting the URL of their
site as a parts source or such, I just found an odd sense 
of irony in it.  I found it interesting to see what the 
European "tuners" are doing with our American iron.   
And I thought it is kinda cool to see these guys  
representing Rocket Power on the autobahns! 
 

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 23:40:16 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: my new car

> The car is very agressive
> from stoplight to stoplight.  the block is stamped f and the heads are j's.
> is this correct for 70's?  

No.  The "F" block is (could be) correct, for a 70 455, but the "J" heads are
71+ smog heads...aka crappy :(  

> the car.  tuesday i will be putting a 2.56 rear end it.  the 4.11 is just too
> much for daily driving.  

No.  I wouldn't recommend that.  Unless you're planning to ~only~ drive it on
the highway.  If you like power ~at all~ you ~won't~ like the 2.56's, even with
a 455.  Those gears are ~not~ known for being fun.  The 4.11's are one extreme,
the 2.56's are the ~other~ extreme.  My recommendation would be to find a set
around 3.23 to 3.42 or so.  Mid 3's are good all-around gears.  As said, unless
you're planning on ~lots~ of highway miles, 2.56's will ~not~ make you happy.  
I
can ~almost~ guarantee that.

Congrats on the purchase of an awesome car.  Definately one of a kind, at
present.  I really look forward to seeing new pics of your new adventures-to-be
in one of the finest rides ever to leave Michigan...


- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 01:25:13 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 4dr" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: my new car

4.10s, 2.56s, 3.23s

I have all these gears.  My Regency has 2.56, my Van has 4.10s, my 455 '81
Delta has 3.23s (had 2.41s).  As far as fun and acceleration, 4.10s are
ultimate.  I would like to get these for my 455 IF I can build a 200r-4 for
reasonable money to handle the 455/4.10 combo.  3.23s are good all around
gear.  HOWEVER, with a 455 and 2.56 power is adequate.  It will not fly off
the line but absolutely will fly at highway speeds.  I had 2.56 in the '76
Delta (the one I got the 455) and even with a tired '76 emissions 455 it had
guts and 110 mph + was ASAP and no problem.  In the shape that this 455 was
in one could wonder how it ran (sat for 6 yrs. for one thing) and it still
got about 15 mpg.  My van which has a 360 and 4.10s barely gets 10 mpg with
a black spring in the 600 holly.  As long as the 455 is a potent powerplant
I think that the 2.56 will do fine for around town.  Fuel economy, top
speed, engine life and derivability will improve with 2.56.  Acceleration
will go down.  I did not catch this story from beginning but if you are
getting 2.56s, the best bet is to get them from a wrecker.  Get the whole
rear-end, that way you keep your 4.10s.  A rear end (especially if you have
taken it off once) will take one afternoon to change.  If you hate the 2.56
or want to go to the track, summer street-racing, etc., just quickly swap
the rears.  I will put back my 2.41s in the '81 Delta for the winter.  It
gets vary cold here (Alberta, Canada) and I need to get some MPG not GPM and
traction on the ice.  2.41 posi was great, any other open rear I had gave me
no traction in winter.  Just keep in mind though that with about the same
engine mods my big MaxiVan with its 4.10s will hold its own against most
cars out there.  It is definitely fast for a huge, rusty old parts hauler.
Really love the 4.10s but also really loved the 2.41s even if they were
mated to the good old 307.


Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/2004r/propane)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)
>No.  I wouldn't recommend that.  Unless you're planning to ~only~ drive it
on
>the highway.  If you like power ~at all~ you ~won't~ like the 2.56's, even
with
>a 455.  Those gears are ~not~ known for being fun.  The 4.11's are one
extreme,
>the 2.56's are the ~other~ extreme.  My recommendation would be to find a
set
>around 3.23 to 3.42 or so.  Mid 3's are good all-around gears.  As said,
unless
>you're planning on ~lots~ of highway miles, 2.56's will ~not~ make you
happy.  I
>can ~almost~ guarantee that.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 06:19:30 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal

Somebody here the other day was talking about the oval front control arm
bushings needing to have the rubber burnt out of them so the outer shell
can be reused since aftermarket replacements didn't come with the shell.
That may be true for some brands but I was looking at a TRW replacement
yesterday that had the outer shell. My pal Brian had them on his spare
parts shelf -- maybe he can post the TRW part # to the list.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 06:22:26 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: SS Wheel ID?

On Sat, 7 Nov 1998 KS7RACING@aol.com wrote:
> The post-77 88's had chrome SS wheels, I have a set I got off of a 78 I 
parted
> out.  They used the large center cap that covered up the lug nuts and a trim
> ring.

Thanks Ken, Fred Nissen confirmed these also as being a big car wheel.
Does anyone out there have the part # for this particular center cap? I'd
like to check to see if they are available and how much they cost. Thanks!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 06:18:11 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Rochester Carburetor Question... Epilogue?

<<The number on a Q-Jet Carb is a part number not a serial number.>>

(<< "So assuming that their is a normal progression of serial #'s">>)

<< FYI, I have found sources other than factory manuals to be problematic at
best.>>

[<< I'd sure like to be able to get my hands on the right stuff.>>]

<sigh>

Was previously trying to be very specific in referencing the codes.

On the Q-Jet body (float bowl, venturii,  jets) there should be TWO 70/170
codes.

One is a casting, the other is a stamping.

The code cast into the carb Karl has seen only as 70XXXXX cast as the
perimeter of a circle an usually on the back of the Q-jet. This is that part #
for the carb body and may be necessary for referencing correct rebuild kits.
It would be a ~bizarre~ coincidence for this # to be the same as the
application #!!

The stamped # is located on the left (or drivers side) of the Q-jet, just
above the "hub" for the shaft for the secondary throttle plates. Or at least
that is where it is on the 1972 Olds Q-jet that Karl has. The stamped # is the
one that has a bearing on the carburetor's ~application~.

Karl also aquired the carb from a 1966 98 (D block B heads AT w A/C....unaware
if drilling or not.. Time was limited) that has a stamping there... still not
properly cleaned and illegible.. But it does not seem to be a 70XXXXX code
right now.

Further, although 68-72 app. Codes are consistent ..though the last two digits
mean different things depending on GM division... Whereas, beginning in the
mid seventies, they take on new meanings. Suddenly 5 also means the 1970
decade (and 7 the 80's), extra #s for CA carbs, extra #s for OEM changing
carb/jetting during production...... During 68-72 the last digit was used
differently for Olds and Buick. Oldsmobile used a sort of performance
hierarchy where 0 was moderate 350, 1 was moderate 455, 2 and so on were
performance options with 3 possibly being 350 MT or a W machine.

The L code on a 1977 car therefore makes some sense, assuming there was still
some cohesiveness to what the codes used to mean.

OTOH according to the codes that have been posted with permission on the
Unofficial Rochester Carburetor Website, for 1968-72 Buicks, the statement
that "3" indicates manual trans would be true.... but the "6" or "2" for the
Stage One could indicate Auto ~or~ manual trans!

In short, Muscle Car Review was basing their statement on specious reasoning
(their "Roch-person" seems NOT to realize that the codes differed by
division).

Further:
Wanna get your hands on the right stuff?

Permit Karl to quote without license;
<<.....Or you can spend $18 for the mongo AC-Delco Rochester application
manual
(about 4" of pages), part #9x. >>

Yes, part "9X".
Karl gonna call Monday if he finds right # by then.

BTW the author of above (Dr. Bob Barry) suggests that anyone interested also
orders the optional BINDER to go with it as there are lots-o-codes!

[drool!!!] 

Also BTW...the availability of such a tome as a currently available item may
prohibit Karl from "publishing" its contents.... rats!

SOM

&KA
ICQ #20414415
http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 06:49:50 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1969 W-32

In a message dated 98-11-07 15:36:26 EST, you write:

<< I seem to recall someone on the List owns a
 1969 W-32.  Please contact me.
  >>
Rob Thomas does at RPTW32@aol.com       

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 07:23:40 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Yarde-ing... (return to Harmon's)

An interesting day...

Paid for and specified "rear end" SOM requires (why does everyone but Karl say
"rear end" when they are referring to the rear axle assembly, including the
axle tube and all within it?) and should be able to take possession next week-
end.

Located a 1966 "98" (99+K!) with many objects desired; "D" block, "B" heads,
Q-jet (mine!!!!), A/C (complete!), TH-400(s-p), cigarette lighter, and dash
clock.
Karl has been inquiring after a clock appropriate to 1965 at every swap
meet...

So, next Sat, that dash comes apart!!

(Remote mirror ~might ~ fit SOM...)

Further, a correct and unmutilated air cleaner shroud was appropriated,
however...
The "correct" 2GC (on different Delta 88) turned out to be a GM service
replacement and looks almost NOTHING like SOM's Orig.

So seems like the best plan is to take the jets and rods from the 1966 "98"s
Q-jet and use them to re-Jet the 1972 Q-jet. The 1966 ~might~ be a 800cfm Q-
jet! Not positive yet as the constriction at the venturii seems to be between
the illustrations for 750 and 800 cfm. Also, 1966 is divorced choke and Karl's
spreadbore intake is from 1976..(no such provision). The integral choke on the
1972 carb seems incomplete.....

Also rods might be a tad too rich as SOM not got A/C (yet!!!).

BTW.. the yarde owner is in prison for posessing cars with the wrong VIN, but
his wife and his father liked SOM!
And on this occasion, no, she did not answer the door with an aluminium
baseball bat.

This is one of the best yardes for Oldsmobiles (still a small % but with 4000+
cars...) that Karl has visited. The ONLY 4 4 2 seen there is a 1976 car that
still has engine parts. Few toros, one 1966 seen that was not spotted last
trip (comfortron) one 1967 spotted last trip not found today (no time). That
aside, as Karl going again anyway (definately last trip this year except for
mebbe a trip to the SW for yarding ONLY), anyone got requests?

Those who have been in contact with Karl include Sparky, Mr. Hillman, and Mr.
Bauman.

Before anyone asks, not seen were door trim on 1964 Dynamic (no 64's seen),
1975 Cutlass "S" (right Lou?) grilles, and only a 1976 4 4 2.

If anyone needs mouldings, or some such, realize that Karl not know mouldings
and be as specific as possible about what it looks like, how to pull it......
And we'll see what Karl can do.

K

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 08:35:37 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: Might be 307 after all...so.......

Trust me the Peoples Republic of Maryland is trying to catch up with NJ.  I
own a '63, '71 and of course my '73 Olds.  I only bought the Olds this year
because it is now 25 yrs old and considered Historic.  I hate to say it but
if you want to build massive horsepower or even make some mods you should
get something that is exempt from emissions.  I lived in NJ for 6 mos. in
'88 and went throught hell trying to get my '75 Rustang through inspection.
I got hassled about cat converters(not required, just made cutoff) and
tailpipe emissions.  Couldn't you put the motor of choice under the hood and
just follow all the emissions guidelines including making it look stock?
How far do they go in thier inspections these days?  If it is under hood and
tailpipe still that shouldn't be too tough.  Good Luck.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>
>Well, folks, w/NJ getting strict emissions, I may have to rebuild my 86
442s
>307 after all.  Any weak points?  Damn NJ is trying to take all the fun out
of
>having a modified newer (?) car.  At least cars 25 years and older don't
have
>to worry about the newer emissions test.
>
>So my question to all the 307 people, as long as IM going to have it
rebuilt,
>any weak points to fix?  Id like to go w/ARP hardware at least.
Suggestions??
>As always, thanks for the help.
>
>Bernie
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 09:00:26 -0500
From: "<GJC> Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Olds/Porsche

In reference to that across the pond brake + suspension site. Anyone else
notice they stated that their parts were crafted in the US. Now, if we can
find out the state side manufacture, I'm sure we could put the very systems
together at 1/2 there requested cost.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
 Purling, N.Y.
 12470-9709

ICQ# 5209322
 CC-IROC-SS
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

Couse Custom Cutlass,
'86 CC-IROC-SS-#1 = "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/~cousecustoms/

Join Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List -
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody

Once a member, post to:
mailto:olds_gbody@listbot.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 09:52:46 -0500
From: "<GJC> Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Ox sender signal

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
 Purling, N.Y.
 12470-9709

ICQ# 5209322
 CC-IROC-SS
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

Couse Custom Cutlass,
'86 CC-IROC-SS-#1 = "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/~cousecustoms/

Join Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List -
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody

Once a member, post to:
mailto:olds_gbody@listbot.com

Hi Jeff,

In the matter of the Ox sender in my setup, It's brand new. Mounted in the
passenger collector of a set of Flow Tech headers on this 307. In fact I
have 2 new OX senders as I had considered mounting in both collectors and
merging through resister the 2 signals to the computer. Never attempted that
effort.  But did use both new senders in right collector one at a time
thinking one might be faulty. No go. Everything else is stock including the
Q-Jet. Exception is Quincy's current cold air Ram Air system which should,
through forced air above say 25 mph, help the system run leaner. I do need
to pull this carb and run through it as it has 130+k on it. At least theirs
a few cold months to play around in...
I read on the EFI list that the Ox sender doesn't really sense Ox as the
heat isn't hot enough. That in fact it reads carbon particulate matter (I
believe the thread stated). At any rate. with the headers, I'm sure it's
reading isn't what the computer is programmed for. Hence my recent thread
about changeable custom chip in the computer.

I do need to track this down. Quincy is a prototype that needs all
questionable actions addresses/corrected. I need be ready for any oddities
when the production proceeds. Though the line units will undergo a more
in-depth strip down, clean, rebuild, reassemble that Quincy didn't as I knew
he was getting the first 403 completed in Feb/March. Actually, anyone
wanting a base CC-IROC-SS (307-200-4R) will get a fresh crate Long block
with in house rebuilt top end etc. But then you can go to my fledgling site
and read all about that.

Point is, I'm running rich + sluggish with the signs of what only can be
called suit on the rear quarters after a 40 - 50 mile run. Guess I should
invest in one of those tail pipe testers so I can do stand still adjustments

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 11:08:07 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Might be 307 after all...so.......

>......  Couldn't you put the motor of choice under the hood and
>just follow all the emissions guidelines including making it look stock?
>How far do they go in thier inspections these days?

>Jim Brady


No joke, is it?

In Ct, you be cool as long as you pass the test. If you fail, you get 30
days to fix it and come back for a free re-test. If you fail the second
time, you qualify for a waiver - AFTER : you spend a minimum of $250 on
emissions related repairs, ~and~ have the car serviced by one of the
~approved~ test facilities.

So imagine putting a 350 or 403 in an 80's Olds, failing the smog test, then
paying $250 to some bozo to have him tinker with your precious Olds, trying
to "fix" something that ain't broke...

Then do it again next year.....

Try to ~sell~ a car that has a waiver sticker....

I want a Rocket in my Delta real bad, but if it can't be made to pass the 85
emissions limits, it ain't worth the hassle.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 11:58:21 -0600
From: "Austin Schroeger" <austin@lsol.net>
Subject: G-Body Org update

www.g-body.org has updated its Car of the Week.  Congrats to this weeks
winner

Austin Schroeger
Home ICQ# 16380613
Work ICQ# 7328959
(920) 682-3277 HOME
austin@lsol.net / austin@g-body.org
http://www.g-body.org
http://members.lsol.net/austin
1984 Monte Carlo SS (406CI)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 13:20:55 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal

Somebody here the other day was talking about the oval front control arm
bushings needing to have the rubber burnt out of them so the outer shell
can be reused since aftermarket replacements didn't come with the shell.
That may be true for some brands but I was looking at a TRW replacement
yesterday that had the outer shell. My pal Brian had them on his spare
parts shelf -- maybe he can post the TRW part # to the list.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
__________

Actually, Greg, the stock rubber replacement bushings (factory as well as
aftermarket) do come with the outer sleeve as you've noted.  It's the
aftermarket urethane bushings that require you to retain the original
sleeve when replacing.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 13:28:33 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: K&N Running Lean?

I've read from a few different threads that a freer flowing intake 
tract will make the car run leaner.  I think it's accepted that a 
lean condition will cause a ping.  My car is still pinging, even 
after the dealer set my timing to stock.  Could it be that my K&N air 
filter is letting in too much air, causing it to run lean?

I suppose it's only a few bucks to buy a "regular" air filter, but 
thought I'd ask opinions first.

Thanks!

Jason K. Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-mail: jadcock@vt.edu
http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 15:05:22 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal

On Sun, 8 Nov 1998 Padavano.Joe@orbital.com wrote:
> Actually, Greg, the stock rubber replacement bushings (factory as well as
> aftermarket) do come with the outer sleeve as you've noted.  It's the
> aftermarket urethane bushings that require you to retain the original
> sleeve when replacing.

Ooops. ;-)

Serves me right for trying to correct Mr. Padavano... :)

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 14:47:43 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal

> Serves me right for trying to correct Mr. Padavano... :)

Actually, I think Mr. Padavano is in reality Dr. Oldsmobile.  He changed
his name after going into retirement.  If not, he must be his brother. 
I bet the only ornaments on his Christmas tree will be the 69 H/O
Hallmark ornaments....

Not taking away from anyone else's knowledge on this list, cause Lord
knows, there's a great knowledge base here, but I've personally never
seen anyone as fluent in as many different years/models of Olds as Mr.
Pad. and Mr. Jim Chermack.  Just my opinion, of course.

And very much correct in the fact that just the poly bushings have to
reuse the outer sleeve.  I got some NOS GM bushings for my H/O, and they
all come with the outer sleeve.  And while we're on this topic, just for
general knowledge, the mid-eighties G-bodies (Greg groans) have the
outer sleeve STAKED in the LOWER control arms, so keep this in mind when
replacing these types.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 15:01:55 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: Flowmasters for a 330?

I have a question; does flowmaster make a system for a 66 cutlass with a
little small block? Oh, and I'm also trading my 54 Super 88 for a 66 442 with
a 455 :). Say goodbye to the battle tank and hello to somthing that can spank
most anything off the line :).
Kelly Erickson
Donzikel@aol.com
www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 11:55:51 -0800
From: "John Young" <realtorjohn@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: 1969 W-32

Greg, I have one.....

realtorjohn@sprynet.com
69 W-32 442

- ----------
> From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 1969 W-32
> Date: Saturday, November 07, 1998 12:23 PM
> 
> I seem to recall someone on the List owns a
> 1969 W-32.  Please contact me.
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 15:21:56 -0500
From: "<GJC> Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal

Mike Rothe wrote:
<Snip>
And while we're on this topic, just for
general knowledge, the mid-eighties G-bodies (Greg groans) have the
outer sleeve STAKED in the LOWER control arms, so keep this in mind when
replacing these types.

<GJC>

Mike, Please explain "STAKED". I recently changed the whole front end of
Quincy and saw no bushings that weren't a slip out/in situation after
removal of mounting hardware. None were conical, all were cylindrical to
depth at which a slight inward taper existed  Presumably to aid insertion
into A arm. So, what do you mean by "STAKED"?


- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
 Purling, N.Y.
 12470-9709

ICQ# 5209322
 CC-IROC-SS
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

Couse Custom Cutlass,
'86 CC-IROC-SS-#1 = "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/~cousecustoms/

Join Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List -
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody

Once a member, post to:
mailto:olds_gbody@listbot.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 15:32:43 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal

> Mike, Please explain "STAKED". I recently changed the whole front end of
> Quincy and saw no bushings that weren't a slip out/in situation after
> removal of mounting hardware. None were conical, all were cylindrical to
> depth at which a slight inward taper existed  Presumably to aid insertion
> into A arm. So, what do you mean by "STAKED"?

Technically, I suppose "flared" would be more appropriate.  The factory
used a flaring type tool to ensure the lower a-arm bushings didn't pop
out.  Why, I don't know.  But if they were replaced once, then whoever
did it may not have "flared" the ends as instructed in the service
manual.  Or, the bozo at the factory just didn't do it, so who knows?

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 11:40:30 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: K&N Running Lean?

I don't know if the difference in the air-filter would cause your motor to
ping.  Buy the regular cleaner and try I guess.


>I've read from a few different threads that a freer flowing intake
>tract will make the car run leaner.  I think it's accepted that a
>lean condition will cause a ping.  My car is still pinging, even
>after the dealer set my timing to stock.  Could it be that my K&N air
>filter is letting in too much air, causing it to run lean?
>
>I suppose it's only a few bucks to buy a "regular" air filter, but
>thought I'd ask opinions first.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Jason K. Adcock
>Blacksburg, VA
>ICQ: 5860857
>E-mail: jadcock@vt.edu
>http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 13:38:49 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 403

Ye that is the correct years of manufacture.  My 403 had aluminium 
pistons.
>Hi list members,
>  Just a quick? question,
> I'm in the process of re-building a Olds 403.
> I have this engine that a buddy gave me, first off I guess it's a 403
>around the years '77-'79 'cause it has the dreaded 4A (yes big A) 
heads,
>block is a 4B, also has a big 403 stamped in the side of the block.
>Anyway he told me it came out of a pre-'77 T/A (sorry I don't remember
>the year).
> But anyway what years was the 403 made? I thought they were made from
>'77-'79 is that right?
> Another question, tonight I was taking the engine apart and this thing
>has Alu. pistons, did the 403's have this type pistons or has this
>engine been re-built before? 
> I've looked at the Olds FAQ and did'nt find anything about Alu.
>pistons, all-though I might not have looked in the right place.
> I will say this though, that FAQ is fantastic!
> Thanks for any help!
>                     Scott
><stulk@bellsouth.net>
>ICQ # 9201151
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 14:15:04 -0600
From: "Ryan Hehn" <ryanh@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: re: 3.0 V/6 to 3.8 swap

Thanks for the reply... I guess I was hoping to hear that the sensors and so
on would have been pretty much the same, but I guess that isn't the case.
It's a shame since it seems easier to find 3.8's in the wrecking yards than
3.0's...

Ray - it's not a T-type, just a 4-dr. regular Lesabre...

Ryan

>Ryan,
>Unless this guy wants to sink a chunk of change into this car the swap
>won't be worth it to do.  Figure on changing not only the computer but
>every sensor in the car and the wiring harness.  Can be done but takes
>a lot of time to get everything right.  And thats just to get it to run,
not
>counting whether or not it will bolt in and modifying accessories to
>bolt up, etc.  All in all it's a chore and not really worth the time.

>Mike B
>mbloomer@gateway.net
>ICQ# 19113713
>72 Cutlass S (RIP)
>68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 17:27:36 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Flowmasters for a 330?

....If you 67 is like my either of my 65's, then I don't think that Flowmaster
makes a exact fit exhaust kit. However, I had custom 2 1/2" duals installed on
my Cutlass for $185 (I already had the Flowmaster three chambered mufflers),
and the fit and finish is much better than any "press-to-fit" "pre-bent-
always-a-little-off" mail order exhaust. JMO.

Collyn 
65 442&clone

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 17:27:58 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Flowmasters for a 330?

oops...your 66

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 17:43:00 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal

Greg,

That was me, it was for the poly bushings Energy Suspension sells for the 64
to 72 A-bodies.  The rear bushing on the lower A-arm (front suspension) was
the only one I had to do this with.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
ks7racing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 19:14:48 EST
From: Heiser5@aol.com
Subject: MOTOR MOUNTS...AGAIN

Hey all,
    I know this has been hashed out many times before, but I just got my
Cutlass back from a year long storing (if that's what you would call it) at my
brothers' barn which was left outside the whole time and I am going to change
motor mounts in it. It had a 350 in it, and now has a 455 in it. But, it has
455 block motor mounts and 350 frame mounts. QUESTION: I have 455 frame
mounts; should I change these out or will 350 mounts work on  the 455? I guess
what I am asking is, which combinations will work for it? Thanks for any help
all...


Mark Heiser
71 Cutlass S...trying to revive her...

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1594
*********************************

