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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1518


oldsmobile-digest    Wednesday, September 30 1998    Volume 01 : Number 1518



Need a car
Re: Rallye gauges wanted for Cutlass (and maybe Delta)
Re: Octane addatives
Re: Engine compartment -- 71 4-4-2
Re: 69 442 grilles
Foul up
Re: 69 442 grilles
Fw: 1965 OLDS f-85
Re: 350 cid Cutlass update
Re: Octane addatives
Marvel Mystery Oil
Re: Octane addatives
junkyard VA, NC
Re: Fw: 442 Dash
Re: Everyone lists their cars
Tuning for torque
Re: Joe (Buy a 455) Padavano
Re: installing rear main seal
Re: Oldsmobile goodwill policy on Headgaskets
Re: Everyone lists their cars
Re: Overheating, PLEASE HE/_P!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Re: Overheating, PLEASE HE/_P!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Re: NY Member Locations.
Re: Omega Help
KEYS photo
Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)
Re: Valve cover gasket recomendations
Re: Grrrrrrrrr.................
Re: Re: ?????????? Sorry Lou...
Re: Hallmark '69 H/O Ornaments
Re: 69 442 grilles
Re: F/S: Hallmark '69 H/O Ornaments
Re: OVERHEATING (prev. discussion)
Re: ignition advance: more info out there?
Re: F*rd solenoid trick -ain't so hot!
Re: Tuning for torque
Re: Jerry C's short list was: Everyone, Everything, the Spanish Inquisition
Re: Jerry C's short list was: Everyone, Everything, the Spanish Inquisition
5-speed Delta 88
Re:  Re:  junkyard
Re:  Re: G body ~true duals~
Re: Cutlass Supreme 4 Speed ??
Re: 69 442 grills
Rallye Pacs for Delta 88s
Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)
Re: 84 Delco radios
Oh, by the way...
Re: Everyone lists their cars
F/S: Hallmark '69 H/O Ornaments
made my day....and BOP Show/Swap Meet
Re: 69 442 grilles
Re: Stereo System

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 22:45:03 -0400
From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: Need a car

Hello,

I've started the process of looking for a winter car.  I figure that
this may be a good resource.  Does anyone, located in the North East,
prefferably, the Mass, NH, RI area have or know of a 60's/70's Olds that
would make a good everyday car for cheap money?  You guys and gals are
pretty much the difinitive edge when it comes to Old's so I'll give it a
whirl.  I'm in my Senior year at college and, much like every other
college student, I am broke as a joke.  I would be looking the the under
$1,000.  I known, I know, you can all stop cringing now...I'm not asking
for pretty, or even ugly, just something that works.  And, here come the
kicker, I will even take a non-olds ride.  Put it this way...if I don't
get a winter beater, then my '69 442 lives through this winter.  Now I
know y'all don't want that!   :)
Thanks for any help you can provide...and to avoid taking up valuable
List bandwitdh, please send all replies to:

dgerow@student.stonehill.edu

Thanks again,

Daniel R. Gerow

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 22:44:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Nathyn M. Knipe" <nmknipe@mailbox.syr.edu>
Subject: Re: Rallye gauges wanted for Cutlass (and maybe Delta)

i have the info on the rallye cluster swap if you need
it...http://members.aol.com/speedst83     Nathyn

On Tue, 29 Sep 1998 JCRASH7@aol.com wrote:

> Does anyone have a rallye instrument cluster for sale?  I need one for my
> friend's 80's Cutlass.  Also, if anyone has a rallye pack for an 84 Delta, 
let
> me know.  By the way, there IS one, I have a picture in my owner's manual.  
No
> round speedo or tach though.  :(
>
> Thanks,
> Joe
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 20:50:00 -0600 (MDT)
From: Timothy Hall <hallt@athena.csdco.com>
Subject: Re: Octane addatives

I use Marvel Mystery oil for top end lube in my '57. I believe it is good
stuff and is necessary, but have not really read anything about this. It
is one of those pieces of information I have obtained from members of
our local Olds club. Know anything about this?

TC

'57 J2 Rocket
'67 Cutlass 455

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 22:30:39 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Engine compartment -- 71 4-4-2

Joe, You've gotta be kidding about the block color!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  It was
metallic, but...
__________

Scott, 'Fraid so.  Be careful when ordering paint from resto houses,
however.  I found that USA Pars Supply, for example, sells the non-metallic
blue only (fortunately I live near them and went to their shop to check it
out before buying).  I know Fusick has the correct metallic blue.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 22:41:21 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 69 442 grilles

...but my H/O even has the silver shield...
_________

DOH!  Didn't even think to look at _MY_ H/O!

Yep, it's silver.

================

As for the headlight bezels, etc., on the H/O, Demmer just taped and
sprayed.  On my particular car, they took the time to tape off the
perimeter of the bezel, and sprayed it the rest of it black.  Mine was
an early car.  Some of the later ones were painted COMPLETELY black
along with the grill. (guess they were running out of time)...
__________

My H/O must be a later one, as they are completely black (or had been
repainted when the car was...)
Thanks for the info, Mike.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 21:53:22 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Foul up

Greg,
Systems problem on my end. Receiving messages in no sequence whatsoever.
All over the place.
Thanks,
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 19:54:27 -0700
From: "John Young" <realtorjohn@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: 69 442 grilles

Joe, mine was/is black. But I can't confirm it's original.
realtorjohn@sprynet.com
69 442 W-32
- ----------
> From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 69 442 grilles
> Date: Tuesday, September 29, 1998 6:38 PM
>
> Thanks to all who responded privately to my comments/questions on the 442
> grilles and headlight doors, but I think you all misunderstood my
comment.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 23:15:05 -0400
From: "person" <vbdeveloper@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Fw: 1965 OLDS f-85

Found this in a newsgroup. maybe someone is interested.....
- -----Original Message-----
From: Daves@creativep.com <Daves@creativep.com>
Newsgroups: alt.autos.antique
Date: Tuesday, September 29, 1998 1:13 PM
Subject: 1965 OLDS f-85


>Pennsylvania car, garage kept, very clean
>black w/red interior.
>70,000 original miles
>90% stock
>see photo
>
>reply to daves@creativep.com
>
>or 412-247-0208

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 02:31:06 -0500
From: Rick Peatman <rpeatman@dwave.net>
Subject: Re: 350 cid Cutlass update

JCRASH7@aol.com wrote:
>
> Ok, I'm not buying the car, it's a Chevy 350.  Even though I talked him down
> to $700.  But I'll post the specs anyway-
>
> 1982 Cutlass Supreme
> 350 Chev bored 30 over,
> Edelbrock carb and heads, modified Chev crank,
> TH350,
> 3.73 Posi,
> A/C,
> No power anything,
> Rallye guages,
> 15" Iroc wheels,
> no radio (just wires)
>
> Joe
Where is this car located ?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 20:35:30 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Octane addatives

I agree with the use of Marvel's, but with one reserve. Don't over do it.
Marvel's has a good deal of kerosene in it. It is good for a fuel addative
cause it eats up the gunk in the fuel lines and carb. But too much and it
eats the seals and hoses too! The same for an oil additive. Too much and it
actually removes the oil from the places it needs to be! It does do lots of
good in old engines that have alot of gunk laying around cause they have
never been torn apart or cleaned up properly. A couple of people posted this
on the list a week or so ago. I certainly do use it on occasion, but am now a
bit more reserved about how much I add to my oil and fuel as to keep my
engine clean and running smooth, but also to keep it protected and in one
peice.

Ben

Timothy Hall wrote:

> I use Marvel Mystery oil for top end lube in my '57. I believe it is good
> stuff and is necessary

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 21:32:56 -0600 (MDT)
From: Timothy Hall <hallt@athena.csdco.com>
Subject: Marvel Mystery Oil

I use as top end lube in my '57 based on the advice of local Olds club
members. Any evidence to support whether this stuff really works?

TC

'57 J2 Rocket
'67 CS 455

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 21:35:06 -0600 (MDT)
From: Timothy Hall <hallt@athena.csdco.com>
Subject: Re: Octane addatives

Thanks Bn. Do you think a lead substitute would be better?

On Tue, 29 Sep 1998, Ben wrote:

> I agree with the use of Marvel's, but with one reserve. Don't over do it.
> Marvel's has a good deal of kerosene in it. It is good for a fuel addative
> cause it eats up the gunk in the fuel lines and carb. But too much and it
> eats the seals and hoses too! The same for an oil additive. Too much and it
> actually removes the oil from the places it needs to be! It does do lots of
> good in old engines that have alot of gunk laying around cause they have
> never been torn apart or cleaned up properly. A couple of people posted this
> on the list a week or so ago. I certainly do use it on occasion, but am now a
> bit more reserved about how much I add to my oil and fuel as to keep my
> engine clean and running smooth, but also to keep it protected and in one
> peice.
>
> Ben
>
> Timothy Hall wrote:
>
> > I use Marvel Mystery oil for top end lube in my '57. I believe it is good
> > stuff and is necessary
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 20:35:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: ef01@sprynet.com
Subject: junkyard VA, NC

I plan to be visiting Virginia and North Carolina in the end of October. The
cities of Danville and Raleigh in particular. I was wondering if anyone on the
list has any suggestions. Looking for a passenger door, maybe a frame don't 
know
 about that yet, bench seat. Anything else if the price is right. Car is a 1966
 Delta 88 convertible. Thanks in advance.

Erik Ferguson
ef01@sprynet.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 23:35:37 EDT
From: Dan442Olds@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fw: 442 Dash

In a message dated 98-09-29 11:11:47 EDT, you write:

<< I am about to remove the dash from my 70 442 for paint, rechrome, etc.  Has
 -anyone done this and have any tips other than don't do it, as that is what
 I
 -am thinking after looking the project over?  Are there any diagrams
 available?
 -Does anyone have one already pulled out that might be for sale?
 -Thanks,
 -Dan442Olds@aol.com

 If you're referring to the dash pad, the service manual shows 4 screws (2
 middle top, 1 on each side) but I seem to recall the dash pad having 6
 screws (2 middle top and 2 on each side) but it's been a while since I
 disassembled this, it's not bad if there's nothing living under the dash (as
 was my case).  If you want the picture from the manual, email me privately
 Thurman@kvnet.org (I'm only on the digest due to my ISP) and I'll scan it &
 send it - will take me a few days though.....mt >>

Thanks, I will be removing that piece but also the plastic part of the dash
that has the controls for the wipers, a/c & heater controls, and radio.  It
runs from the left side of the car to the glove box.  This is the one that
looks like a real bag of snakes to remove.  Suggestions anyone?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 23:31:20 EDT
From: Mr57olds@aol.com
Subject: Re: Everyone lists their cars

54 "88" four door sedan,  driver
56 S88 four door sedan,
57 S88 holiday sedan  four door hardtop restored  1st at Springfield
64  442 conv  being restored
64 cutlass hardtop  for trim,  then  455 street machine
98 Intrigue

Bruce  Mr57olds

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 20:47:28 -0700
From: mitzm@earthlink.net
Subject: Tuning for torque

I've got a 70 CS with a 350, 4 bbl, th350, 2.56 diff and just added
245/60-15 BFG tires which really look great on the car.

As it stands right now, my overall performance is a bit sluggish,
particularly when towing a jetski trailer up freeway onramps and passing
uphill on the freeway.  Also, there is a tendency to knock (on 89 octane)
underthe same circumstances.  The engine has about 80000 miles on a rebuild
(of indeterminate quality) and burns maybe a quart of oil every 500 miles
but otherwise runs fine.  Its got points ignition and an MSD 5 box.

Because of the tall diff, I figure I'm turning 22-2500 rpm under these
scenarios and I want to eliminate knocking and increase performance without
running premium.

What can I do to improve this situation short of the "Padavano Panacea"
which I may well resort to when the engine craps out.

I'm thinking in terms of distributor timeing and recurving and carb
rebuilding/rejetting.  A new diff is out of the question.  A new cam, maybe
if it would payoff big.

I'm not expecting race car performance (obviously) just better freeway
passing guts in that 2200-2700 rpm range.  As it stands right now, the
wifes Honda Accord does a better job of pulling that trailer which is
pretty embarrassing.



Where should I start?

hans in el segundo

Mitzm@mail.earthlink.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 21:43:46 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Joe (Buy a 455) Padavano

Joe is right.  Also, don't forget the TH400 you can pull from these beasts.
That is what I did.  Instead of just getting the motor, I got a running '76
Delta from which I pulled and sold all the glass, 8-track, 10-bolt,
tail-lights, etc.  For my troubles, I made all my money back, got a decent
455 (which I rebuilt anyway), got a good th400 (that I would have had to buy
anyway) which needed no work but shifter-link. seal.  Also, you get all the
accesories like PS pump, cruise, alt, A/C ext.  I put new waterpump, fuel
pump, alternator and all those things on my engine, but still the PS pump I
kept.  Also, unless you have a BB, you will need all the brakets couse your
small block ones won't fit.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/propane/th2004r)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM <Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, September 29, 1998 8:00 PM
Subject: Re: Joe (Buy a 455) Padavano


>Got any tips on how to go about finding a garden variety 455 in good
>working
>order?
>
>tia
>roger hitson
>__________
>
>IMHO, the cheapest method of finding a good used 455 is to find a rusted
>out but running big car and buy the whole thing for a couple o' hundred
>bucks.  This way the engine runs, you can drive the car to check it out,
>and you'll probably get it for less money than buying just an engine from a
>wrecking yard.  On top of all that, if you have the room, you can part the
>car and make some of your money back.  At a minimum, pull the engine and
>sell the hulk to the wreckers; even if you just get $25, you've paid for
>the engine hoist rental.  Usually, however, these big cars will have power
>windows (motors are all the same), disc brakes (calipers should be the same
>on A-bodies), and other power options.
>
>This method actually applies to parts besides motors.  When I needed a
>header bow for my 66 convertible, I called every convertible specialty shop
>in Hemmings.  The priced ranged from $300 for a used, as-is part, to $450
>for a "rebuilt" header bow (sandblasted, painted, and new tack strip
>installed).  Instead, I found a rusty 67 convert parts car for $250, got
>not just the header bow, but the whole top frame, motor, and cylinders.  I
>also got a complete A/C setup, 12 bolt Type-O rear end, tinted windshield,
>wiring harness, top and power antenna switches, and many small clips,
>brackets, special bolts, etc.  In addition, I managed to sell the carb,
>choke, flywheel, forged crank, and some other small parts, and about got my
>money back.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 23:41:56 EDT
From: Mr57olds@aol.com
Subject: Re: installing rear main seal

In a message dated 98-09-29 10:32:14 EDT, you write:

<< Alternatively, you
 could go to NAPA and buy a 1 piece 460 FORD rear main seal like so many
 list members have toughted.  I'll probably go this route this winter
 when I rebuild my 425.  Good luck. >>
An excellent idea.  It is a two piece neopreme  seal.
Mr57olds

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 21:50:05 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile goodwill policy on Headgaskets

>Who cares, + it's pronounced E-GOR


HEY, what is that supposed to mean.  Just kidding.  Anyway, no I am not
Croatian, but Serbian.  However, both Croats and Serbs ARE from the same
country and speak the same language so it don't matter anyway.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 23:44:06 EDT
From: Mr57olds@aol.com
Subject: Re: Everyone lists their cars

In a message dated 98-09-29 12:52:50 EDT, you write:

<< Everett   OCA# 1961
  >>
Everett,  are you going to be at Hersey??? If so what space????
Mr57olds

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 22:00:36 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Overheating, PLEASE HE/_P!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That's a 3 core
>as is the one in the 87 now, but I know the one from the 86 is good.  If
>that doesn't help, i'm going to replace the water pump for the 6th time
>in about 1.5 years!


Ray, before you do that try this.  Since (from what I remember) you are
running a 403 you probably have the belt pulleys that came from the 403 or
maybe a 307 it replaces.  Since most 403s and 307s were made to run with low
numeric gears (like 2.56 or 2.41) they were never meant to run higher RPMs
like they would with a bit of gear.  So, maybe your crank pulley is too big
and you waterpump pulley is too small so at higher RPMs (2000 rpm or so is
all most of these engines saw crusing on highway) the waterpump is moving
too fast and not letting the water stay in the rad long enough.  If you are
running above your thermostats temp, it would be open all the time letting
this happen.  Also, if you are running no thermostat the problem could be
even worse.  I don't know, that it is just a thought.  I was gonna try and
get smaller pulleys if nothing else worked.  What is your opinion on this?
Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 22:03:34 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Overheating, PLEASE HE/_P!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Jeff wrote:

I also
>found that smaller diameter,
>yesssss smaller Heavy duty cooling A/C water pump and NON AIR pulleys
>worked the best. runs the coolent slower to pick up more heat from the
>engine.

>i.e. the coolent can't run too fast or too slow thru the radiator to make
>the engine cool right.
>


Yeah, that is what I mean.  My pulleys are from a AC car that had 2.56
gears.  Maybe I should do this as well.  Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 23:56:31 -0400
From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: NY Member Locations.

- ----------
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: NY Member Locations.
> Date: Tuesday, September 29, 1998 8:55 PM
>
>

>   
> im in middletown ,new york by newburgh.

Erik Gertsen

73 olds 88
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> <>-----Original Message-----
> <>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> <>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of ef01@sprynet.com
> <>Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 1998 8:51 PM
> <>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> <>Subject: Re: NY Member Locations.
> <>
> <>
> <>I live in Latham just outside of Albany
> <>
> <>Erik Ferguson
> <>66 Delta 88 convertible
> <>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 00:13:13 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Omega Help

>being a former Chevy guy or having owned a Nova.  Those are my
>skeletons
>in my closet.
>
>        Thomas P. Smith
>        1971 Cutlass S 350<-------------------------------forgiven
>
>
>
>
>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 00:15:44 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: KEYS photo

My friend resent the photo of the keys to those who asked.  Let me know
if it works this time!

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA
- -

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 22:21:44 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)

Hey, I am 20 years old and just finished putting a 455/th400/ 3.23 posi 8.5"
10 bolt into my '81 Delta.  I am a rookie (but learned lots of things since
I pulled the 455 and trans form a '76 Delta, disassembled both, rebuilt the
motor and assembled, modified trans, pulled the rear from a LeSabre and
installed it into Delta, etc..) and I did everything from the first time.
As far as just swapping motors and other drivetrain stuff, it is a piece of
cake.  I striped and sanded the body.  It is just being painted.  When it is
all done I will post the pictures.

As far as Stereo goes, the best thing you can do to your Delta is get a good
deck, good big-magnet 6x9s and better 3.5" fronts.  Equalizer is a good idea
(I mounted mine to the left of the tray, since my oil-pressure, temp and amp
gauges are where the ash tray used to be.  But it will easily fit where the
tray was.)  However, the ABSOLUTELY most important component would be a good
AMP.  This is much more important then the equalizer.  Unless you get a
great amp, your deck will feel like a 307 compared to a 455.  Good, but
nowhere near great.   Door speakers are good, but can be left for later.
This is what I have in my car:

Clarion Deck 120watt
Pioneer equalizer 7-band
front 3.5" spks, pioneer
front 4" spks, both below ash-tray
front 5.25" Clarion spks. in door.
rear 6x9, 250 watt spks.
trunk 1-10" 500 watt sub. in box, bolted down.
1-300 watt 4-channel amp. (runs 4" and 5.25" spks.)
  2x100 watt for the 5.25s, 2x50 watt for the 4"
1-600 watt bridgeable amp.
  2x150 watt running the 6x9s,
  1x300 watt running the sub.

If you have any questions, bring them on.  Igor.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/propane/th2004r)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)


- -----Original Message-----
From: JCRASH7@aol.com <JCRASH7@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, September 29, 1998 7:38 PM
Subject: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)


>I got to thinking.  I'm still probably going to find an original radio.
But,
>for now, I'm going to try to build up a real stereo.  My plan is as
follows:
>Pioneer in-dash CD player,
>Equalizer mounted in place of ash tray.
>Better 3 1/2's up front, some nice 6X9's out back, and I think I want some
>midrange in the doors.
>I'm not sure if I want subs or not, at least not now.
>
>Now here's my question.  Right now I'm doing a little body work while it's
>sitting in my garage, and I'm getting it painted next summer.  Is all this
>money worth it?  The car has 175,000 on it, and will need a new tranny
and/or
>rear end soon.  I am ~planning~ to drop a 350 or 403 when the 307 goes, but
in
>reality, I don't know if it will ever happen.  I barely have the space,
(but
>I'd have the space if I needed it), I wouldn't have ANY idea how to do it.
Is
>dropping in a new engine practical?  Can it done by a rookie such as
myself?
>:)  Or should I leave the car as-is and wait for a better car to come along
to
>spend my money on?
>
>I await the Oldsmobiler's opinions,
>Joe
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 21:14:26 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket recomendations

more cheap gaskets with an expensive lable.....kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff & Sherie Stanish <stanishj@svpal.org>
To: OLDS NET <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, September 29, 1998 7:17 PM
Subject: Re: Valve cover gasket recomendations


>Glad someone likes them, I could never get them to seal right. It's Mr.
>Gasket cork for me only!
>
>On Tue, 29 Sep 1998 Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
>
>> Don't use anything other than Fel-Pro, preferably their neoprene rubber
>> gaskets.
>>
>> Joe Padavano
>> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>>
>> 66 442
>> 68 W-30
>> 69 H/O
>> 69 442
>> 70 W-30
>>
>>
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 21:15:34 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Grrrrrrrrr.................

yeah  but I couldnt resist love racing of all kinds even drag racing go
fast, repeat......kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: KS7RACING@aol.com <KS7RACING@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, September 29, 1998 4:26 PM
Subject: Grrrrrrrrr.................


>Kerry Kroger wrote:
><geez what could you have missed go fast turn left , repeat vroom
>vroommmmmmmm......just kidding...........>
>
>Remember, it only takes one ball to play baseball, football, basketball, or
>(especially) golf.................................
>
>Ken Snyder

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 22:25:41 -0700
From: "Tim Wurtz" <tropical@micron.net>
Subject: Re: Re: ?????????? Sorry Lou...

Thanks Lou your much help............Thanks again.....Tim
- -----Original Message-----
From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, September 29, 1998 6:19 PM
Subject: Re: Re: ?????????? Sorry Lou...


>Tim,
>No, but I will look, guess who will be the first to find out, besides me.
>saved your address.
>Lou
>----------
>> From: Tim Wurtz <tropical@micron.net>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Jul 2005 23:06:11 -0400
From: Gary Standiford <phred@fwi.com>
Subject: Re: Hallmark '69 H/O Ornaments

The H/O was number 7 in the "American Cars" series. They (Hallmark) are
producing a different car each year. Hallmark stores cannot get
ornaments from previous years. Once the stock is gone, that's it. They
can be found at some collectible stores, but they will cost more than
original retail. (First in the series, a '56 Vette currently at $200+)

Andrew C. Green wrote:
>
> > Since they're "Hallmark's" wouldn't they be orderable through any
> > Hallmark location?
>
> Not if they're discontinued, and I think these are discontinued.
> You can at least look at a picture of it on Hallmark's web page.
> Try this link:
>
> http://www.hallmark.com/ornaments_bin/dreambook/product.asp?Orn=1395QX6102
>
> (Note: If this link is broken, do a Search on their page under
> 1997 ornaments.)
> -- Andy
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 21:27:50 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: 69 442 grilles

Joe
my 442 has not been altered(yet) and the area you were wondering about is
still black this is not to say that it couldnt be painted silver but mine is
black....kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM <Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, September 29, 1998 6:58 PM
Subject: 69 442 grilles


>Thanks to all who responded privately to my comments/questions on the 442
>grilles and headlight doors, but I think you all misunderstood my comment.
>I was aware that they are silver and black, however I was commenting on the
>fact that _every_ used set I've bought (including the used headlight
>housing I got yesterday) have all been painted completely black by a
>previous owner.  I have to agree with Kerry, it does look cool (which is
>likely why the 69 H/Os _did_ come with these parts painted black), but I
>just found it amusing that it appears that _everyone_ has painted theirs
>black!  The same thing seems to go for used 70 442 grilles.  I have
>something like 2 1/2 complete sets (and several broken ones), and most of
>those had been painted black.
>
>As for my question on the color of the stone shield, I'm not talking about
>the hood tongue.  I'm refering to the horizontal metal shield that's
>between the inboard ends of the grilles, behind the center of the bumper.
>I got two responses, one said silver, one black.  Any other votes?
>
>Thanks to all
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 21:30:43 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: F/S: Hallmark '69 H/O Ornaments

there must be something with these ornaments I got one from a girl who then
stopped talking to me?????kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ray Costanzo <rocket409@juno.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, September 29, 1998 5:53 PM
Subject: Re: F/S: Hallmark '69 H/O Ornaments


>I got one of those last year and gave it to a girl who has decided to
>stop talkning to me.  I am a fool!
>
>Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
>                        Bucks County, PA
>-
>On Tue, 29 Sep 98 08:43:39 -0500 brad.nicholson@ssa.gov writes:
>>
>>Time to start that holiday shopping!!!
>>=========================================
>>||  Hallmark 1969 Hurst/442 Ornaments  ||
>>=========================================
>>(Their description, not mine)
>>New in the box, unopened. Created by Hallmark in recognition of
>>Oldsmobile's 100th last year.  Great detail and a 1 year only
>>production
>>run. I'll send them by USPS Priority Mail and well padded to prevent
>>any
>>damage.  $25 including the $3 shipping. E-mail me for the address to
>>send
>>your order to.
>>
>> -----  Brad Nicholson (OCA's WebGuy)
>>|  |  | OCA# 18984
>>|  |  | 1987 442 W-42
>>|  |  | 1994 Eighty Eight LSS
>>|  |  | President, Oldsmobile Centennial Club (Maryland Chapter of
>>OCA)
>>|  |  | Oldsmobile Centennial Club Web Site:
>>http://www.erols.com/brad442/occ
>>| /|\ | H: brad442@erols.com
>>|/ | \| W: brad.nicholson@ssa.gov
>>|  |  | OCA: WebGuy@oldsclub.org
>> -----  Oldsmobile Club of America Web Site: http://www.oldsclub.org
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 00:09:18 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: OVERHEATING (prev. discussion)

My car ran nice and cool in Tucson during the summer  and then started
heating up back here near Philly.  eh?

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA
- -
On Tue, 29 Sep 1998 17:57:36 -0700 Ben <olds442@primenet.com> writes:
>> product called WATER WETTER.  It is a fairly small bottle with red
>stuff in
>> it.  Worked great.
>
>I tried that and now have the 40 below. NEITHER worked very well for
>me. But
>that was when the weather was 120 degrees outside with a three row on
>a 400 with
>headers! TONS of heat down there!!! but now that it's below 100 I
>can't keep it
>hot enough around base to run good. I have to run 40+ for about 5
>minutes before
>it is hot enough to run efficiently. I can't wait to get out of this
>treaterous
>desert!Ben
>
>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 21:40:47 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: ignition advance: more info out there?

OK what is ping? It is the result of preignition the "ping" is the collision
of two opposed flame fronts. preignition is the result of a superheated area
of the combustion chamber or piston top thus igniting the flame front on an
opposing angle to the primary flame front by reducing the ignition advance
the heat in the chamber is reduced by the action of "quench" when the heat
in the chamber is reduced the air fuel charge appears to be richer thus
"quenching" the hot spot thus endeth the lesson....kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: SpeedCom@aol.com <SpeedCom@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, September 29, 1998 1:47 PM
Subject: ignition advance: more info out there?


>Hey,
>
>When I held forth on the subject, I made it clear that I was NOT an expert.
I
>was hoping to add some "yeast" to the discussion, but it seems to have died
>right then. There *are* some real experts on this list, and the topic seems
a
>fruitful one for discussion. I'd like to see how close my 35-years-back
>information comes to what is known today.
>
>Here is a little snip of the original poster's questions.
>
>>  Why,
>>  >then, are preignition problems more prevailant the sooner the spark is
>>  >fires.  Something just doesn't make sense here.  Could it be because
the
>>  >increase in combustion chamber temperature increases at a faster rate
>>  >than the actual advancing of the timing?  Experts?
>
>Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 22:03:50 -0700
From: MIKE ROBE <icebear@sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: F*rd solenoid trick -ain't so hot!

To Roger,

Now let's see if I got this straight? Joe says to hook up a solenoid in front
of your GM solenoid to give you better hot starting.
Seems to me that your just giving yourself another headache by doing this. As
soon as you turn that ignition key, number one solenoid fires down to number
two solenoid which then fires down to your starter. You've doubled your
solenoid draw on your battery and your starter has that much less current to
draw from the battery. If you've got gunk on your GM solenoid, then it's time
to reseal your valve covers and pull that starter out to check it over.
If I lived in a hot climate, I would make sure that I have the biggest
radiator I could get. Then throw in an electric fan kit that runs off of  a
thermostat. Make sure you have a good battery, the bigger the engine, the
bigger the battery. Keep the battery clamps in good shape by cleaning them
and at the same time make sure that the battery is clean too. Dirt on a
battery drains the juice out of it. If you have to, make a heat shield for
your starter and mount it securely. Dirt on your starter solenoid has the
same effect as dirt on the battery. Maintain your starter, even though it's
stuck behind an exhaust manifold and a crossover.
If you really want some way to bump your engine over, install a heavy duty
momentary-on switch (water proof) under the hood, and tie it in with your 'S'
wire. Do not do this without a fuse between the battery and the switch!
But don't slave your starter solenoid to another solenoid. Do the
maintenance!

Roger Schmidt

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 23:15:18 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Tuning for torque

What kind of exaust are you running.  The absolute first thing I would do is
add a dual
exaust system.  Headers if you want', but must have dual exaust.  Put 2.25"
or 2.5" exaust, with good mufflers (a must).  Dynomax SuperTurbos flow great
and are dead silent with a full exaust system.  If you don't wan't to go
with a dual exaust (really should), then just add a Dynomax SuperTurbo
muffler and a downturn pipe (no tailpipe.  You may wan't to do this with
dual exaust as well as it helps flow and reduces cost, but at the expense of
little noise).  You should notice a big improvment over single exaust.  If
you still desire more juice, put a good bottom-end cam.  This will help your
fuel and torque.
Towing is no place for Honda over Olds.  Igor.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/propane/th2004r)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 01:41:29 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: Jerry C's short list was: Everyone, Everything, the Spanish
Inquisition

BIGJERMES@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 9/29/98 1:05:15 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> ithefunki@cchat.com writes:
>
> << Actually...  I was planning on dropping a 455 w/ A THM400 in there
>  instead...  And as far as Qjet.......  Jury's still out on that
>  decision....   >>
> i would just use a th350 tranny.  the g- bodys are pretty light, (compared to
> the 60's cars) and if you build the 350 tranny good it will take the abuse.
> you will go faster with the 350.

No, I am partical to building indestructible...  The difference between
a 350 and a 400 is maybe .10.  I'd rather sacrifice .10 for durability.
<G>  Besides that, I am working on an "All around performer" so I can
eat Mustangs in both straight line, and twisties...

> are covered but whats left out?  aahh...  the rearend.  true, they might
> handle good power levels, but my experience has shown that a 300hp 350
> combined with a harsh shift kit can kill a 7.5" rear.  this is the dilemma im
> in right now.

Solved.  F*rd 9 Inch with a 3.2ish - 3.6ish rear.  I can get one cheap,
REAL cheap, so it's fine by me...  My two local alternatives are Dana's
or F*rd.  I like the pumpkin swappability of a Ford, and the
indestucibility of the same one.....  That will go in shortly after the
Aluminum 4 Core Radiator...


> early '70s chebelle.  as for the carb i think its neat to be able to tell the
> guy you just beat that your running a q-jet.  watch his eyes bug out.  oh 
yea,
> i live in south carolina too and my car will be a paperweight if they start
> emissions testing.

Mine will pass...  Tune it right, and pray it takes them about 10 more
years for emissions testing <G>...  If they go to it, I'll tub the car,
and set it race only.
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 01:42:43 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: Re: Jerry C's short list was: Everyone, Everything, the Spanish
Inquisition

JJP442@aol.com wrote:
>
> What's the "F" mean?

"F" as in Fake...  heh heh...

I told you guys I wouldn't try to pass of a plain jane 87 as a 442...
I'm tossing that F in front of it so I got me butt covered.
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Sep 1998 23:54:31 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: 5-speed Delta 88

I was just wondering what would it take to put a 5 or 6 speed manual behind
my 455 in '81 Delta 88 4dr.  I would really love to have OD in there, and
though the 2004r or 700 would be a good choice, I would really love to have
a manual.  Just would like to know what would be involved and how much it
would be.  Also, where could I get the trans from.  New trans would be way
too much to pay.  Thanks.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/propane/th2004r)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 02:14:34 EDT
From: JJP442@aol.com
Subject: Re:  Re:  junkyard

Erik,
 That would be really nice of you. Please let me know if you see any goodies
like T-top gbodies w/bucket seats the colors are 81-84 red (GM calls it maple)
and 85-88 grey.
Thanks in advance
John_Queens N.Y.
JJP442@aol.com
1983 H/O
1987 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 02:24:30 EDT
From: JJP442@aol.com
Subject: Re:  Re: G body ~true duals~

Al,
Torque Tech? I never heard of them. Do they have a web site??
Thanks
JJP442@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 02:28:12 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Cutlass Supreme 4 Speed ??

In a message dated 98-09-29 21:47:47 EDT, you write:

<< A few years ago, I saw a '76 or '77 Cutlass Supreme with what appeared
 to be a factory 4 speed standard transmission.  If not factory, it was a
 very clean conversion.  The car had a 350 engine in it and T-bars as
 well.  It was in a junkyard and wasn't canibalized yet.  I wish I'd
 bought it (old hindsight 20-20 thing).  Was a 4-speed a factory option
 for the Supreme models in those years? >>

78-79 Cutlass could be had with 3,4 and 5 speed manuals. The 4 and 5 speeds
were different depending on the powerplant. (Olds or Buick)   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 00:19:56 -0700
From: John Barnett <john@jb-net.com>
Subject: Re: 69 442 grills

> As for my question on the color of the stone shield, I'm not talking about
> the hood tongue.  I'm refering to the horizontal metal shield that's
> between the inboard ends of the grilles, behind the center of the bumper.
> I got two responses, one said silver, one black.  Any other votes?

This metal shield on my 69 442 is painted
silver...

John

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 01:36:09 -0700
From: "Mike Jones" <mike@gleep.com>
Subject: Rallye Pacs for Delta 88s

Joe, I did this gauge swap over the summer, had some hokey auto gage (auto
meter spinoffs) that were showing age after 2 years and water temp never
worked right).  These are pretty easy to find, you can yank one out of any
'77-84 98, '77-85 Delta 88, or '77-90 Custom Cruiser (Yes, Olds still had a
RWD full size wagon WITH the 307 in '90!  last year though.) that had the
rallye pac option.  You must get the whole left instrument panel bezel
including the inset where the gauges sit (volts, oil, water) because this
small panel with the 3 gauges uses it as a mount, and the non-gauge cars do
not have these mounts.  You must also get the correct sending units from
the donor car (GET THE 45 DEGREE BEND FOR THE OIL PRESSURE SENSOR, VERY
IMPORTANT!  The bell-shaped sending unit will not clear the manifold
without the 45 degree bend) and also the harness that hooks the gauges up
to your car.  It is also a good idea to cut the other side of the plug
(male side) of the plug out of the donor car.  I got two of these gauge
clusters at a local wrecking yard for $18 (half-off sale and I had a
warrenty on them).  The sending units cost me a whopping $1 each from a
different yard, and the other harness was also a whopping $1.

I have a service manual for '78 Oldses around here, I dunno if the wiring
has changed much.  I was told I would have to disconnect a wire from my
ignition switch under the dash, but I didn't have to because there was no
wire leading from my water temp sensor to the ignition switch.

I have some photos of the gauges you are talking about, but you can barely
see them.  Shoud have taken the photo with the steering wheel off.  But if
you want to see them, go ahead.  (BTW, steering wheel was found in an late
70's Cutlass with rallye pac, buckets, and console, all the same color.
Buckets were hashed out, console broken :[  )

Http://www.gleep.com/users/mjones/olds1d.jpg 	(steering wheel blocks 
view)
Http://www.gleep.com/users/mjones/olds7.jpg	(volts gauge)
Http://www.gleep.com/users/mjones/olds8.jpg	(water temp and oil pressure
gauges)

going to forward this to the list also.

Mike Jones
'78 Delta 88 (350/TH350)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 03:39:05 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)

> I got to thinking.

Uh oh....

> I'm going to try to build up a real stereo.  My plan is as follows:
> Pioneer in-dash CD player,
> Equalizer mounted in place of ash tray.
> Better 3 1/2's up front, some nice 6X9's out back, and I think I want some
> midrange in the doors.

Good start...

> I'm not sure if I want subs or not, at least not now.

Yes, you do.  Period. :)  Especially if you don't get 6X9's in back (can't
remember what fits there...)  If you go with a sub or two, you ~won't~ regret
it!  I guarantee it!  A singal 10 or 12 would probably be perfect for that car,
unless you want to do some showing off too.  Then two 12's would be excellent.
I run two 10" MTX 5000 series.  I am very happy with 'em in the Teaser.

You're fine with a Pioneer choice for CD player.  BUT, don't get it from
Walmart, or similar discount center.  They are a different line, and are most
definately lower quality.  Go with the "real" stuff, or even Premier, if you
choose.  We deal the standard (middle) line.  ~BIG~ quality difference, we've
seen, between ours, and the WalMart lines.  Not sure how much better the 
Premier
line is.  Seems like a couple features per unit, but might be better.  Personal
preference, there.  Standard line includes the 245, 345, 635, and 835 (~mest~
common ones) and the Premier line will proudly boast it...  With these, you'll
be paying for features.  We've sold tons of the 245's at 199.99, (bottom of
Pioneer's line) and had great luck with 'em, the higher models add features, 
not
quality.  The 245 seems to still be a high quality piece.  Pioneer has 
(finally)
came out with a high quality 3-1/2 driver.  If they'd have done it ~last~ year,
I wouldn't have Kicker's in ~my~ dash.  But both are good speakers.  Anyway...

Door speakers???  Not sure what you'll have room for there, but I think it's
gonna be custom.  Don't recall ever seeing speakers in those doors.  :(  But, 
as
I recall, those doors have room for tons of options (any verified experience
here?????)  For sound quality, mids in the doors would be a Godsend in that 
car,
3-12's just don't do much.  a good pair of 6-1/2 midbass drivers would be worth
their weight in Gold in that sound system...

As to the sub/no-sub system?  If you can do it, by all means, do it.  You'll be
glad you did, it adds ~sooooo~ much.  It doesn't have to be anything massive or
extravagent, even a single 10 will make a vastly noticable difference for you.
An important factor of a good sounding sub is the amp.  Skip the EQ for now,
that can come later.  Pioneer's decks have a good EQ curve built in, use it,
you'll be happy.  The amp should be a high quality unit, pushing at a ~very~
minimum of 50 watts true RMS to each sub.  That will give you the reserve power
you'll need to truly experience the music.  Anything above that is up to your
own pocket's discretion, but the sky's the limit.  Pioneer's line of amps is
high quality, as long as supplied from a reputable source (i.e. ~NOT~ WalMart!)
MTX supplies some really fine equipment, too.  I haven't been impressed by
Clarion amps and speakers, in the past... (Love their head units, though!!!)
Kicker is a good product too.  Fosgate, Alpine, and  Kenwood are all reputable
performers.... (although ~I~ don't support 'em...  Had good luck with some
Rockford Fosgate, but as for all around sound quality and performance, I can't
say ~too~ much in their favor...  For power and punch?  Yeah, Fosgate will 
shake
ya!

My ~best~ recommendations???  JL Audio subs, Oz Audio mids and highs, Phoenix
Gold amps, Audio Control signal Processors, and Clarion source.  That's the 
best
of the best, to me.

The ~BIG~ question, however, is "Is It Worth It???????"
Most definately yes.  Regardless of what you're driving, ~yes~ it's very worth
it.  Especially if you do the work yourself.  You can take ~all~ the equipment
with you if (when) you get a new car.  In the event you sell your car, you can
almost be the next owner ~will~ put a CD player in it, or pay you extra to 
leave
yours there.  Don't worry about hacking the dash, unless there's "unrepairable"
damage caused by it, and it's a "verified" classic, i.e. something from the 50s
or 60s that you'll ~never~ find a replacement for.  The Delta, albeit a 
classic,
doesn't qualify.  Neither does the Cutlass.  Which is why I have a CD player.
And why I've done Delta cutouts several times without a moment of remorse.
You've got the right car, enjoy it to it's fullest.

CD is the only way to go, for sound quality, for performance, for convenience.
I'll cite George Strait as an example.  You know the scenaario.  You by an
album, since you heard a good song on the radio.  What do you know.  There's
only two good songs on the album...  ~OF COURSE~ they're the second songs on
each side of the tape...  ten minutes of fast forwarding for each song, 
stopping
periodically to deterimine where you are (Or if your AMS in finding it...)
George Strait is a perfect example, (as mentioned) because almost ~all~ of his
albums have had two or three awesome songs... The rest absolutely sucked....
Nothing mediocre, just garbage (IMHO!:) Lots of music search in order, there.
CD you don't have to wait, you don't have to worry about taking your eyes off
the road for extended periods of time.  YOU JUST GET THERE!  Simple and quick.
I call it a major safety issue.   (Damn tapes! :)  So, ~yes~ it's ~very~ worth
it.  even if you don't keep the equipment, it will increase the resale value 
of
the car, if sold to a non-dealer.  And the only unrecoverable cost, upon 
resale,
would be the installation labor.  If you do it yourself, you're only out time.
Big deal, eh?  Take a cruise with someone who has a relatively decent system,
and then compare that experience to your own vehicle.  Big difference?  There's
your answer.  :)

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 03:51:49 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: 84 Delco radios

> Think I will go with a CD player.  And an Equalizer/40Watt power booster
> mounted in ash tray.  (I'll get the equalizer from the Shack, and I think 
I'll
> go with a Pioneer CD)

Pinoeer, good.  Shack, garbage.  (I ~work~ there, take my word! :)  The
EQ/boosters have never been high quality units -- by ~any~ manufacture. Stay
away from 'em.  Good EQs will be preamp only.  Save your $$$ and get a good
one.  You'll be much better off.  Or just forget the EQ for now.  You can add
one later, but for now, go with the CD, amp, sub(s) and other speakers.

> Will it rattle?  I'm pissed off with my current radio because I've tightened
> it so many times, it keeps coming loose, and I HATE that rattling!

That really depends on the installer -- ~and~ the car...  If your car's tires
are out of balance, or has some front end troubles (personal experience
here!!!!!) you'll ~never~ stop the rattles.  But if your car is fully
roadworthy, and the installation is reasonably secure, rattles shouldn't be a
concern.

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 03:56:15 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Oh, by the way...

Just remembered again...  Sorry I missed ya the other night.  Got both your
emails at once.  Zipped over to RT, but you were still on your beer run,
apparantly...  Started getting this extra java applet thing going on, though...
launches this big blue window, with a message about a fatal exception error or
something like that...  Did that about five times, and I gave up...   Shut 'er
down and went to bed (hell, it was late, anyway.  Like now....  Need to start
buying lotto tickets, I guess...  This two-job thing sucks! :)  A new meaning
for the post and crash, I guess!  :)

Anyway, just wanted to mention...



- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 03:58:10 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Everyone lists their cars

> C'mon, Charley, you know you had your list written down beforehand!  :-)

Well, I had most of em written down a year ago, but you know me...  Once was a
time the list would grow every month...  Trying to recall the most recent
required a bit of mental strain...   So, is there a GN in your list yet???

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 05:22:22 -0500
From: "Robert Stoneham (EUS)" <EUSROBS@am1.ericsson.se>
Subject: F/S: Hallmark '69 H/O Ornaments

These are nice collectibles.  I got one of these (don't remember what year
it was then) last year at a Foley's department store in Dallas, TX.
Surprising enough, I did not find them at the Hallmark store when I looked.
(Sold out maybe?)  If they have a different one each year, I will surely
have them all...

1986 Cutlass Supreme 307 (Mint!)

robert.stoneham@ericsson.com <mailto:robert.stoneham@ericsson.com>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Sep 1998 17:46:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: made my day....and BOP Show/Swap Meet

Hi Gang,
       Tonight on my way home, pull up to red light, next to a late
80's Thunderturd, with young guy driving. Car has interesting options:
hydraulics, and nice space saver spares on rear...sees the 84 and says
"Man, that's bad as hell!". Wonder what he would have thought had I
been driving Topless?!?!?
        Going to BOP Southern Nationals tomorrow...While I am at Swap
Meet anything anybody wants me to keep my eyes open for? Send reply's
direct with good description and top price willing to pay.... I'll get
as cheap as possible for you.


            Sman
SM/ph






==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 04:14:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 69 442 grilles

- ---Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
<snip>
 I was commenting on the
> fact that _every_ used set I've bought (including the used headlight
> housing I got yesterday) have all been painted completely black by a
> previous owner.
- ---My guess is the fact that the silver finsh fades so much.....and
hard to match.....silver paint is too dull...."chrome" paint is too
bright.

 As for my question on the color of the stone shield, I'm not talking
about
> the hood tongue.  I'm refering to the horizontal metal shield that's
> between the inboard ends of the grilles, behind the center of the
bumper.
> I got two responses, one said silver, one black.  Any other votes?

- -----I would say black.....
               Sman
==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 04:03:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: jtherndon@webtv.net (Jeff Herndon)
Subject: Re: Stereo System

jcrash7 wrote:

<<I got to thinking. I'm still probably going to find an original radio.
But, for now, I'm going to try to build up a real stereo. My plan is as
follows: Pioneer in-dash CD player,
Equalizer mounted in place of ash tray.
Better 3 1/2's up front, some nice 6X9's out back, and I think I want
some midrange in the doors.
I'm not sure if I want subs or not, at least not now.>>

Joe,

I have what I consider to be a fairly simple, yet good sounding system
in mine:

Blaupunkt control head w/ cassette and integrated CD changer controls
Blaupunkt 10-disk CD changer (trunk mounted under deck at rear of lid)
JBL factory replacement speakers (3.5 front and 4x10 rear)
A pair of Lanzar Sound 10" subwoofers (open-air mounted behind rear
seat)
HiFonics 200 watt mono-block sub amp (bridged to both subs for 300 watt
output)
HiFonics 88 watt 4-channel amp for mains (22 watts per channel)
Amps are mounted side by side in trunk on shelf behind seat.

It sounds unbalanced, but the sub amp output is cranked down to about
1/3 (about 100 watts at rated input), and the main amp's individual
outputs are tweaked to balance the sound at the driver's seat. Don't
need an eq, just adjust the bass and treble at the control head to your
liking, and the sub amp output for just the right amount of "thump". I
have the "rear line" outputs of the control head going to the sub amp,
and the " front line" outputs go the main amp. this way, I can control
the amount of thump from the subs with the fader, yet maintain control
over left-to-right balance from the control head. Hint: use a CD to tune
with; cassettes have too much noise, and radio stations have their own
individual eq from the studio. Don't need a crossover; sub amp has
built-in adjustable freq cutoff, and the main speakers don't seem to
notice the low frequencies.

As for door speakers, why cut holes in perfectly good door panels? The
frequencies you want to hear will just get absorbed by the carpet and
seats anyway. Good dash and deck speakers get those freqs and reflect
them off the glass.

Other opinions: speaker boxes in trunk take up too much room, and sound
"boomy". The big g-body trunk resonates at a much lower freq giving a
clean bass with open-air subs. A big amp is necessary to get the sound
through the seat cushion.

A trunk mounted CD changer doesn't take up much space, and prevents
fumbling for your CD case on the road.

A final concern is to not attract thieves. The goodies are not visible
through the windows, and the JBL's fit in the existing holes without
cutting the dash or deck. G-bodies are easy to break into without
breaking glass, so you don't want to hand out invitations. My control
head completly slides out of the dash for safe storage in the trunk. It
also has a blinking red light if a leave it in, kind of a fake alarm
system.

Jeff Herndon
86 CS 307Y "Gutless"

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1518
*********************************
