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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1539


oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, October 8 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1539



Re: Oil Pans
Re: Engine Rebuild
Re: Olds and Holley
Re: 68-72 A Body Heater Cores
Re: Alldata CD-ROMs
RE: 455 vs. 425
Re: Olds and Holley
Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)
Re: Olds and Holley
1970 Twilight Blue Metallic:Any Pics ??
Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)
Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)
Re: BAD Olds Owners (Long)
Intro to the Rockit!  (was Re: G-Body Header Panel Questions:)
Oil pans and baffels
Re: The Unit makes it's debut!!
Re: Tranny Shop in New England Needed
Petroleum
re:Repro H/O emblems
Re: For Sale: 79 Olds Delta 88 (long)
Re: BAD Olds Owners (Long)
Re: Aluminum Hoods
Re: Performance Exhaust 1985 442
Re: Petroleum
69 fender (inside color) and lower support bracket
Re: 69 fender (inside color) and lower support bracket
Need  Some Assistance
rearview mirror
re: add another to the fleet...
69 fender (inside color) and lower support bracket
Re: Tranny Shop in New England Needed
Re: 69 fender (inside color) and lower support bracket
Re: 69 fender (inside color) and lower support bracket
Re: 68-72 A Body Heater Cores
Re: 1970 Twilight Blue Metallic:Any Pics ??
Re: BAD Olds Owners (Long)
Re: BAD Olds Owners (Long)
68-72 Cutlass Inner (Upper?) Trailing Arm Size
Re: Performance Exhaust 1985 442
Re: 69 fender (inside color) and lower support bracket
Re: rearview mirror
RE: Olds and Holley
Re: Oil Pans
Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 20:27:13 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Pans

Stephen Hoover wrote:

> Is there any actual difference in the regular small block and big block
> oil pans? Most resto places list two different part numbers, but
> companies like Milodon only list one. I know the Toro pan is different.
> What's up with this?



Stephen,
The main difference between the 65-72 small block pans and the
big block ones is the baffle used on the big block pans.  This baffle
is designed to keep the pump pickup submerged in oil under hard
deceleration/braking.  Now just why the Olds engineers felt this
was not necessary on the small blocks (even the W-31's),
I couldn't say.

I have not seen the Milodon "OE" replacement pan to know
whether it has the baffle or not.  Most Milodon and Moroso
deep pans do use the big block style baffle.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 23:51:21 -0400
From: Gasman24 <stulk@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild

Ray Costanzo wrote:
>
> On Tue, 06 Oct 1998 22:53:30 -0400 Gasman24 <stulk@bellsouth.net> writes:
> >Hi list members,
> Hi Scott
>
> > I'd like your input on this, I'm going to be re-building a '79 Olds
> >403
>
> cool!
>
> >soon and I'm looking to get some good performance out of it.
>
> shouldn't be a problem
>
> >Here's what I'm thinking about doing to it:
> >First get rid of my #4a heads and go with a set of #5 heads,
> >casting #397742.
>
> I'm using 72 350 heads (7a) on my 403, good compression.
>
> >Then I will use the Edelbrock Performer RPM cam and intake
>
> What are the specs on this cam?  My Crane cam is .480,.496, can't
> remember duration specs and I lost my cam card!!!
> .
> >The block will be a stock rebuild, useing new parts if needed (like
> >pistons, con rods).
>
> An overbore would be good too.  Beware, when I was running 9.8:1
> compression on stock-style cast pistons, I blew one apart.  Now, I'm
> running 10.5:1 with forged aluminum, and they're holding up great (so
> far!)
>
> >I would like to get a gear type drive insted of double roller timming
> >gear (just for the cool sound) is that a good idea?
>
> Hey, if you can deal with the noise, then the gears are definitely better
> than the chain!
>
> >Also will roller rockers work on the #5 heads? With out a lot of
> >machine
> >work?
>
> Uh, I don't know this.  My guess is that someone makes a set that'll bolt
> right on.  Do you know about Mondello?
>
> >  The trans in the car (by the way it's a '79 T/A) is a TH350, it's
> >been
> >rebuilt with shift kit and a slight stall convter (something like
> >1200)
> >stock gears in the rear. Allthough I might change them later,
> >something
> >like 3:73's.
> >  Does any of this sound like a good idea?
> >
> 403's don;t like to be fast spinning motors.  I've got 3.08 gears, and I
> think they're perfect.  I wouldn't go any "lower" than 3.23 with a 403.
> With the 3.08's, my car still easily burns through a 1/4 mile in 13.4ish
> seconds, could be faster if I could get the damn thing tuned right!  (see
> future complaint)  And with the 3.08's I still get almost 14 mpg on the
> interstates!  Ha, as if that's good...
>
> Wait a minute, the car the engine is FROM is a T/A or, it's still in the
> T/A and that's what this is for?!  Hey, put it in an Olds man!  How about
> an 82 Toronado?  They're cooler than T/A's!  Or perhaps a 85 Cutlass
> Cierra four door.
>   Thanks for any input!
> >                Scott
> >
> sure, see ya!
>
> Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
>                         Bucks County, PA
>
> ___________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]


 First off the specs. on the RPM cam are: Duration @ .050 int. 224 and
exh. 234. with a lift at the valve int. .496 and exh. .520.
  And yes this engine is out of a '79 T/A and it's what's going in it
to, sorry it isn't a Olds, but at least it's Olds powered.
  That should raise some Ponti** eyebrows!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 00:12:12 EDT
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds and Holley

In a message dated 10/7/98 5:32:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
smithtp@ix.netcom.com writes:

<< Hey, anyone know why Oldsmobile (I'm really thinking of Cutlass)
 never used the Holley? >>

I have had one Holley in my life, and I will never, never, never ever have
another one. They may be fine for racing, but on a street driven car that gets
driven infrequently, they suck. Long live the Q-Jet!

Jon

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 21:22:41 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: 68-72 A Body Heater Cores

John Pajak wrote

>  OK folks; to change the heater core on an AC equipped 68-72 A
> body, you do NOT have to remove the blower motor and inner fender as
> was previously posted!!!!!!
> ___________
>
> John's correct, gang.  Done this many times.  You might think GM applied a
> little maintainability engineering to the design of the A-body heater core.
> Unlike the problems with changing the blower motor (been there, done that
> too), which _does_ require removal of the fender.  (Lesson learned:  If the
> front sheet metal is off for any reason, replace the blower motor and be
> _absolutely sure_ the fan is tightly bolted to the motor's shaft.  It's
> even more frustrating when you have to pull the fender just to tighten this
> nut!)
>
> Joe Padavano



Time saver trick #2

When replacing a blower motor on a 68-72,
(with or without A/C)  I've always just
unbolted the plastic inner fenderwell,
moved it out of the way (you don't
actually need to even remove it).
You then have full access to the
blower motor.

By unbolting the plastic fenderwell, you also
have access to the studs that are attached
to the inner heater box and protrude into
the engine side of the firewall.  From the
factory, these studs had nuts attached.
These nuts must be removed in
order to remove the inner heater box assembly.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 00:33:20 -0400
From: jgoble@nishanet.com (Jeramy Goble)
Subject: Re: Alldata CD-ROMs

Jason,
I have thought about them too. The local shop I use for all my service and
work has invested in all the Alldata cdroms. He seems to be pleased with
them. I will ask next time I see him what his impression is of the
information.
Reggie Goble

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 01:06:18 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: 455 vs. 425

Bill,

Whichever motor you choose to utilize, allow me the chance to puchase the
other BB for Quincy.

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
  
'86 Couse Custom Cutlass IROC-SS = "Quincy"

<>-----Original Message-----
<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of william goodnight
<>Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 1998 4:23 PM
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<>Subject: 455 vs. 425
<>
<>
<>I know that I have seen strings in the past discussing the relative merits
<>of the 455 vs. the 425.  They didn't mean much to me at the time,
<>but now I
<>have the opportunity to purchase a 425 for a street machine I am building
<>which I previously planned to rebuild a 455 for.   Can anyone help me out?
<>
<>Also, what is the practical limit on compression ratio on a 425 for
<>servicable steet use?
<>
<>
<>Bill Goodnight
<>Goodnight & Associates, Inc.
<>idaholc@primenet.com
<>1014 E. Franklin
<>Boise, Idaho
<>(208)345-0158
<>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 01:33:41 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Olds and Holley

>According to Edelbrock, some Chrysler's used the Q-Jet in >something called
a Thermo-Quad setup.


Yep....my neighbor has this on his 440 in his motorhome (RV), the
secondaries won't or don't kick in until the motor gets up to temp.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 22:30:33 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)

> > WHY DON'T THEY PACK THE OIL PUMP FULL OF JELLY _BEFORE_ YOU BUY IT?
> >
> > Am I going to buy a can that says "Petroleum Jelly" on it, or am I
> > going to buy a bottle of Vaseline?
>

I got in late on this thread, so pardon me if I'm not
addressing the direct question.  What I assume you
are talking about is the (old school) practice of packing
the oil pump with petroleum jelly to "prime" the pump
prior to fire up.  Rather than run that stuff through a new
engine, the best means of priming the oil pump
(and engine) is by attaching a drill to the oil pump
drive shaft.  Olds V8's distributors (and oil pumps)
run counter clockwise, so set the drill in reverse.  Run
the drill until oil comes out of all pushrods.  This is
done just before initial fire up.  So have the valve
covers and distributor ready for immediate installation.
This method of priming the pump ensures every
component is fully lubed and the engine "thinks"
it has just been shut off.

When installing a good quality pump, all you need to do
prior to it's installation is disassemble it, bathe it in clean
solvent, blow it out with compressed air, squirt some
oil in it, reassemble it, and bolt it on.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 01:39:34 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Olds and Holley

>But that was a Carter brand.  Completely different in looks.  >However, in
1970, Carter DID build a Quadrajet carb for GM that >looked like a
Rottenchester.


That was in 1973 when Rochester could produce them fast enough, wasn't it?
They say Quadrajet by Carter on the side of the carb.
Previous owner of my 72 H/O put one on it at some point in time.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 01:00:05 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: 1970 Twilight Blue Metallic:Any Pics ??

I decided on the 1970 Olds Twilight Blue Metallic COlor for my 72 442
Convertible. I only have a color chart from DuPont and it is hard to tell
what it would look like on the car itself. Anyone out there with that
color? It doesn't  have to be a convertible or a 72. As long as it is the
same color. Please upload me some pics directly or show me to a  website
that has the color. I just don;t want to buy the paint and then spray it on
the car and not like it....

Thanks


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 01:11:21 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)

OK...that makes sense, except that I can't "immediately" install the valve
covers, because this is a stupid Oldsmobile (as opposed to a smart one,
don't worry) with a whole sh*tload of vacuum hoses, etc...plus I (we) had
to remove the A/C bracket to get the passenger's side valve cover out.  So,
if I did what you suggest below, I think that it would take about an hour
(optimistically) to three hours (realistically) after turning the drive
shaft to be in a position to start the engine.

Now, I can put the covers on, and reassemble everything, and THEN do your
drill trick..that might work.  But why can't I just do the jelly thing?
This is NOT a new engine, incidentally - 150,000 miles of being a not new
engine.  And after I get it started the first time, and make sure there are
no leaks, I'm going to use STP engine flush anyway, so no worries about
petroleum jelly in there...

The oil pump I bought is brand new.  I have taken the cover off of it, in
preparation for packing jelly in there, and it's...brand new.  Why would I
need to do the things you describe below to it?

At 10:30 PM 10/7/98 -0700, you wrote:
>
>
>
>
>> > WHY DON'T THEY PACK THE OIL PUMP FULL OF JELLY _BEFORE_ YOU BUY IT?
>> >
>> > Am I going to buy a can that says "Petroleum Jelly" on it, or am I
>> > going to buy a bottle of Vaseline?
>>
>
>I got in late on this thread, so pardon me if I'm not
>addressing the direct question.  What I assume you
>are talking about is the (old school) practice of packing
>the oil pump with petroleum jelly to "prime" the pump
>prior to fire up.  Rather than run that stuff through a new
>engine, the best means of priming the oil pump
>(and engine) is by attaching a drill to the oil pump
>drive shaft.  Olds V8's distributors (and oil pumps)
>run counter clockwise, so set the drill in reverse.  Run
>the drill until oil comes out of all pushrods.  This is
>done just before initial fire up.  So have the valve
>covers and distributor ready for immediate installation.
>This method of priming the pump ensures every
>component is fully lubed and the engine "thinks"
>it has just been shut off.
>
>When installing a good quality pump, all you need to do
>prior to it's installation is disassemble it, bathe it in clean
>solvent, blow it out with compressed air, squirt some
>oil in it, reassemble it, and bolt it on.
>
>
>Greg Rollin
>Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
>http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
>E-mail: supercars@transport.com
>
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 01:26:18 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)

>I ALSO TOOK THE REAR MAIN CAP OFF.  I don't understand why it was mentioned
>by some (HI IGOR!) that the crank would fall out if I did this...there's
>still several straps holding it up.

Hello, gimme a break, I never said that taking ONLY the rear-main-cap off
would cause the crank to fall out.  Making me look bad.  Taking all of the
caps off would.  However, HOW DO YOU EXPECT TO CHANGE the block part of the
rear-seal without taking the crank out (ie. pulling all the caps off and
removing the crank).  It is not like you can just bend the rear end of the
crank while the last cap is not on and put the new seal in.  You can just
change the bottom (cap part), would probably help it some, but if the top is
leaking, no joy.

>Found out (BEFORE I removed it, thank
>you) that the Real Main Seal is TWO pieces, not just one, therefore
>allowing removal of the seals without removing the transmission.  I will be
>able to replace the lower of the two pieces tomorrow.  Chilton's makes it
>sound like it's possible to replace the upper one as well, WITHOUT lifting
>the motor or transmission out, but I don't really know about that...


Like I said, it was probably a two piece, but could not tell you for sure.
The only motors I looked in was the 455 and the 307 ('81).  The '84 307s
could have been different.  I think that what they would wan't you to do is
to remove all the connecting rod bolts (all 16 bolts, which you would have
to do rotating the crank to get at some of the bolts, cause when you can get
at some, you can't at others whose pistons are at TDC or so), then take all
the main caps off (here you would have to hold the crank while taking the
last cap off.  Now, leing on the floor holding the crank with one hand,
unbolting with the other,  the 80lbs could seem like 180, especially on the
reinstall.) THEN you drop the crank, change the rear top part of seal, PUT
the crank back in, conect everything, hope you don't drop the crank while
you are putting that FIRST main cap on.  Go ahead if you wan't.


>SHOULD I REPLACE THE BEARING IN THIS ONE CAP?  ARE THEY EVEN SOLD
>INDIVIDUALLY?


I don't know if you can get them separate.  Unless that one berring was
shot, I don't see why you would change it.  Not to mention that the other
side of the berring (the one behind the crank you could only get at IF the
crank was off) would be worn, while the cap half would be new.  IF you are
at this point where you need new bearings, you will have to dissasemble the
bottom end to do all of them.  Again, POSSIBLE with the motor just hanging
there.

>And here's another question - my transmission didn't leak before I jacked
>the engine up, why is it SLOWLY (a drop every five minutes) leaking now?
>It SEEMS to be leaking from the speedo cable attachment, but that seems
>pretty strange.  By tomorrow, the fluid in the tranny will be pretty low,
>and I'll definitely refill it before the car moves again, but it would be
>nice to know...ESPECIALLY if this leak is the result of me rupturing a seal
>or something by raising the whole assembly like I've done (jack under the
>crank pulley).


Hmm, unless you disconected the drive-shaft ( I doubt you did), I suppose
you could have hit the floor-pan with it in and caused it to stay while the
trans moved up, destroying the rear seal.  However, DON'T PANIC.  I think
that since now all the fluid has moved to the back of the trans, IT thinks
that it is still sitting flat, there is way too much oil in it and the
result is SPIT some out.  On my TH400 ( and I am sure on all other TH
transes) when you overfill it, there is a relief tube that just spits it
out.  I think this is all it is.

>I don't understand the bit about the fuel pump "weep hole" leaking - I
>don't understand why there is oil involved in the fuel pump at all, and I
>sure don't know what a "weep hole" is.  The area around the pump seems to
>be free of oil deposits, so at this point, I'm kind of reluctant to delay
>completion of the project in order to take this on as well - it seems like
>the pump would be pretty hard to remove.


If you pull the timing cover, you will see why the oil and fuel pump mix.
The way your fuel-pump works is via a small lever, which is placed over (or
under) the end of the camshaft (where your cam gear conects).  There is a
egg-shaped round pice of metal if you will (called the fuel pump eccentric)
attached to the end of the cam.  As the cam spins, the elongaed part of the
eccentric raises the lever up, pumping fuel.  Then, when the flat part of
the egg (eccentric) comes, the spring located below the lever in the pump
pushes the lever back, then again the elongaged part pushes the lever up,
up, down, up, down, which drives a small diafragm, sucking fuel from tank
and feeding it in MASS amounts to the carb.  Since where there is a cam,
gears and up-down motion of metal parts in the motor oil is present (to
lubricate and protect/cool these componets), it can leak.  If you look at
how the pump is attached to the block, where the pumps flat surface meets
the block, there is a gasket.  Gasket fails, oil leaks.

Since the oil-pan is off, look above the crank timing gear at the fron't
with a flashlight. You should be able to see the chain and the top cam gear.
Now look in front of that top gear (either below or above it) and look from
the fuel pump side.  You should be able to see the little lever.  All will
be clear now.  Also, I am not sure, but you may be able to SEE the condition
of your top cam gear.  You may also be able to touch the chain half-way
between gears and see how much slack it has.

I don't know about the oil-pump, but all I did was put the screen on, dip it
in a bucket of fresh oil, turn the oil-pump till the oil started coming out
the other side (so that all the internals were oiled), put her in, and it
has worked great since.

Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 02:13:59 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: BAD Olds Owners (Long)

> Well have TWO, yes TWO horrible stories to tell.

Umm...  ~where~ do you live???  (remind me ~never~ to move there!!!  Yikes!) I
thought I was surrounded by ignnorance ~here~ !!!!   Move, as soon as you
can!!!  My best advice, go to where the intelligence ~is~!!!!  As ~comedian~
stories would have it, I'm led to believe you live in Cleveland...  but that's
only the movies, eh?  :)

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 02:23:53 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Intro to the Rockit!  (was Re: G-Body Header Panel Questions:)

Ray Costanzo wrote:
> >The Rockit
> What is a RockIT?

Oh, a newer face, I see...  :)  ~This~ is the Rockit.  So named for several
reasons, ~one~ because it's a Rocket...  two because it ~rocks~ and ~three,~ 
(at
the time) if there was ever an IROC kit for the Cutlass, this car was intended
to have it...  Unfortunately recent years have been hard on the poor Rockit, 
but
future years will see 'er cruisin' and lovin' life once again.  Future weeks,
with any luck... :(  Sure miss that one!  :(

See a brief introduction at:
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/mycars.htm

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 07:03:45 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Oil pans and baffels

Liszt,    (feeling Austrian this A.M.)

            Greg hit the nail on the head with the baffles in the BB pans.
Could the
engineers had the larger mains in mind  - I read that this is a concern on
the large
journal Pontiac engines - My 7 quart after market pan has the baffles....


JMT
The General

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 07:11:42 EDT
From: WOODY3781@aol.com
Subject: Re: The Unit makes it's debut!!

Blaine,
Thanks for the confirmation. When you see things like this you begin to doubt
everything. I had a fight with my wife. I told her my daughter was a 1980
model, she says she's a 1981 model. So I says "cut her in half and count the
rings!". Didn't go over too well. Some people have NO sense of humor.

wood

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 07:50:43 EDT
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tranny Shop in New England Needed

Hey try DYNAMIC in West Haven CT, Had really good luck with them when i lived
there and ran M*pars. good people and had a good selection of tranmissions.
But like any thing else in New England you pay for it.

Chris Sommerville
69 442SC
70 442HC
70 W31
AND LOTS OF PARTS FOR SALE!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 07:34:35 -0500
From: wayne_drusch@co.harris.tx.us
Subject: Petroleum

>Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 14:38:43 EDT
>From: KarlAune@aol.com
>Subject: To D. Brown and others: Question - diff additive

>I hope Dave will forgive me, I thought others would benefit

<< I replaced the gear oil in the Dakota with synthetic. In doing so I
needed
>to add a couple ounces of "anti-spin additive". My question is, what is
>"severely hydrated petroleum oil"? That's what the bottle says are the
>ingredients. Most likely petroleum oil is a bunch of things, like a
molecule
>is a bunch of different atoms.

No water in that oil Karl. The hydro or hydrate used in petroleum
refining usually refers to hydrogen. One process used is hydrocracking
where the petroleum chains or molecules are broken apart under heat,
pressure and catalyst then reassembled chemically into a more useful
product. Another process is alkalization where hydrofluoric acid is used
to break down the crude into more useful oil stocks. There are other
processes used too, all to make the basic crude oil in to more useful
and profitable products. Oil stocks are made from the heavier fractions
of the crude oil while the lighter ends such as kerosene, pentane,
toluene, napthas and the like are blended together to come up with the
right octane for fuel. Benzene is no longer allowed in gasoline because
it is a carcinogen(causes cancer). Less than .5 percent benzene content
is allowed and most blends contain less.  That's the very, very brief
story of refining. The bottom line is that it works and is still
relatively cheap compared to costs in Europe and other places.

E. Wayne Drusch
71 Cutlass Conv

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 09:37:03 -0400
From: "Shokouhi, Mike" <ShokouhM@nasd.com>
Subject: re:Repro H/O emblems

I picked up 3 from The Parts Place, and compared them to my originals
(which were plastic) these are die-cast, and they looked very good.
However, they are like $40 a pop.

Mike Shokouhi



Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 17:13:51 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Repro H/O emblems


Anybody have experiences with the reproduction H/O emblems?  I purchased
some a year and a half ago from Don Hartmann (a little different) and
just packed them away.  I pulled them out the other day, and found out
they are NOT like the originals, in the fact that all the lettering is
mis-shaped and too long("O" is squarish instead of round, "s" is like a
backwards "Z" shape), and they are only about 7/8ths as large.  Pretty
sucky if you ask me.

From what I understand, the one's the Parts Place have are from Don
himself.  Makes me wonder.  Anyone buy any of those?

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 10:15:01 -0400
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: For Sale: 79 Olds Delta 88 (long)

> Selling?!? Traitor! ;-) This sounds like my '78!
> <description of senior car snipped>
> > further. I'm asking $400, will make a consideration for list members or
> > referrals.

Greg B. Suggests:

> Hey, what a steal! Somebody ought to buy this classic.

It's especially painful, as this priced-to-sell car is in the next town
over from me (my home office w/Raytheon -- as in "Raytheon of Borg" is
in Marlborough)... but, Madame prolly wouldn't see the wisdom in its purchase.
As I've wryly observed on our hallowed list before, I might as well bring a
blonde home as another vehicle, the reaction I'd get would be the same...

> > Basically, I see this as a parts car that can be driven away,
> > as long as you don't mind a loud exhaust and low cosmetic appeal.

> Low cosmetic appeal?!? Why you %!@#$%#$#@!....  ;-)

Loud exhaust?  Low cosmetic appeal?  I'd just say it was a daily driver
from Maine -- just kidding!!! :)



Tim Churchill        OCA #30327           Framingham, MA
- ------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 08:21:07 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: BAD Olds Owners (Long)

Well, thanx, my day is a lot better for reading this...

At least the guy didn't BS you to get the car, only to destroy it!

Right on
Eric
htttp://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/

Tip: Whenever looking at an Olds, I always drive my nicest Olds to look
at it, as you never know when someone will let you have the car at a
good price just because you'll give it a good home, which HAS HAPPENED
to me!


Peter Berusch wrote:
>
> About selling your Olds to a resposible party I can volunteer the following
> stories:  A man came into my shop about two months ago.  He had seen my '69
> 98 parked outside.  He asked if the car were for sale.  I told him
> EVERYTHING is for sale for a price.  I showed him the car, demo'd the car,
> and asked him if he was a buyer.  He said he was, he needed a 455 for a
> project he was doing.  He wanted to take my complete, running, driving,
> highly optioned 98 apart for the engine.  "What do you care what I do when
> it's mine?"  he asked.  The car is not for sale, I told him.  "That's
> funny", he said.  "the woman I talked to last week said the same thing".
> You'd think he'd catch wise.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 10:25:43 -0400
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: Aluminum Hoods

Mike Rothe Quips:
>
> Uh, yeah. That's it.  Real rare.  Came with aluminum hoods.  Just
> kidding.  Hahaha.  Good catch.  Duh me!  Yeah, I meant Calais.  They
> didn't make a Salon in 84.  I stand corrected.  It was a Calais, the RWD
> version, the only REAL Calais in my opinion.  I'm so used to ordering
> parts for an 85.....

I dunno, I was looking at a Calais, in real nice shape, that I almost bought.
It was a '67 Cadillac; apparently the Calais was a slightly stripped-down
version of the Coupe de Ville.

And speaking of aluminum hoods, my '89 Fleetwood has one...



Tim Churchill        OCA #30327           Framingham, MA
- ------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 07:31:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Olds Omega <oldsomega73@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Performance Exhaust 1985 442

Yeah, Dyno max sure does, as does Torque Tech. The Torque Tech is 3in
and exits behind the rear tires not out the back, but I was going to
put in on my Monte SS and the muffler shop said if I wanted it to exit
out the back and still have mandrel bends they could cut it off at the
wheel area and weld a long 12" -18" chrome tip... just a thought.



- ---Ray Costanzo <rocket409@juno.com> wrote:
>
> I *believe* the exhaust system I put on my priorly owned 86 was
stainless
> and was from Walker.  The stock exhaust on the car is Walker, as all
GM's
> (right?), but I think they sell it stainless...
>
> Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass

>                         Bucks County, PA
>
> On Wed, 7 Oct 1998 21:13:55 -0400 "Steve C" <cutlass@citlink.net>
writes:
> >This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> >
> >------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDF237.64572E00
> >Content-Type: text/plain;
> >	charset="iso-8859-1"
> >Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> >
> >Hey Guys,
> >
> >          I have a question I hope someone can help me with . I own
a
> >=
> >fully restored 1985 Olds 442. I would like to know if there is any =
> >company thats makes a performance exhaust system, I would like to
use
> >=
> >stainless steel if it is available but anything better than stock is
> >ok, =
> >also I am retaining the stock exhaust manifolds. Any help would be =
> >greatly appreciated
> >=20
> >   =20
> >
> >------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDF237.64572E00
> >Content-Type: text/html;
> >	charset="iso-8859-1"
> >Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> >
> ><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
> ><HTML>
> ><HEAD>
> >
> ><META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
> >http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
> ><META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
> ></HEAD>
> ><BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> ><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hey Guys,</FONT></DIV>
> ><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
> ><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000=20
> >size=3D2>          I have
> >a =
> >question=20
> >I hope someone can help me with . I own a fully restored 1985 Olds
> >442. =
> >I would=20
> >like to know if there is any company thats makes a performance
exhaust
> >=
> >system, I=20
> >would like to use stainless steel if it is available but anything
> >better =
> >than=20
> >stock is ok, also I am retaining the stock exhaust manifolds. Any
help
> >=
> >would be=20
> >greatly appreciated</FONT></DIV>
> ><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2> </FONT></DIV>
> ><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>    =
> ></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
> >
> >------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BDF237.64572E00--
> >
> >
>
> ___________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 10:35:15 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Petroleum

In a message dated 98-10-08 09:26:17 EDT, you write:

> >to add a couple ounces of "anti-spin additive". My question is, what is
>  >"severely hydrated petroleum oil"? That's what the bottle says are the
>  >ingredients.
>
>  No water in that oil Karl.

[a good soliloquy on petroleum processing]

Thanks wayne!

Quite so.

Oil & water.

Question still stands.

"Severely hydrated petroleum oil" is.....?

TIA

SOM

&KA
(ICQ installed on Maelstrom, not this setup)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 10:00:55 +0000
From: MB0 <MB0@americancentury.com>
Subject: 69 fender (inside color) and lower support bracket

Can anyone tell me if the inside of the fenders on a 69 Cutlass are body
color, or black? I'm repainting and want the correct color.

Also, is there a resource for replacement lower front support brackets
for fenders? I'd like to replace the bracket that has the rubberish
"cushion" permanently attached to it. The rubber is bad and there
doesn't seem to be a way to remove it. I've checked Year One and
Brother's catalogs.

Thanks!

Mike Baugher
69 Cutlass S convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 08:04:09 -0700
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: 69 fender (inside color) and lower support bracket

MB0 wrote:
>
> Also, is there a resource for replacement lower front support brackets
> for fenders? I'd like to replace the bracket that has the rubberish
> "cushion" permanently attached to it. The rubber is bad and there
> doesn't seem to be a way to remove it. I've checked Year One and

Huh?  What is this part?

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 11:15:48 -0400
From: "E.J." <oldsluvr@bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Need  Some Assistance

Greetings all fellow automotive enthusiasts.
I'm one of those generally quiet "side-line-digest-observers", that
lurks about here.

I need to expand my "automotive field of vision", close to 1100 miles
!!!!.

Meaning, i'd like to know if anyone on the list is, and or knows someone
close to Oconto Falls
Wisconsin.

I'm going to be pricing flights into and out of Green Bay(Oconto Falls
is supposed to be approx.
30 miles north of Green Bay).
I'd like to avoid the expense of flying out there, if at all possible,
considering this car does
not run and will have to be transported back to New Jersey. I'm
"guestimating" this will cost
close to a $1000, above and beyond whatever i actually end up paying for
it.

So, i guess i'm wondering if someone could check this car out, as a
favor, and or even someone i
can pay within reason to do so, whether it be on a private and or
professional/business level.

I'm in the Trenton, New Jersey area(close to Phila and NYC) and would be
more than happy to return
a similar favor to someone in the future.

I'm not looking to make this a major inconvenience for someone, so if
your not relatively
close to Oconto Falls, i would'nt want to bother you.

Also, any info and or recomendations on a transporter ?  Cheap is always
good for the wallet,
but at the same time, i don't want someonewho's gonna leave there with a
"# 3" kind of car,
and show up at my door with a now "# 5" car, and deny damaging anything
if you know what i mean.

Please e-mail me privately if you can help, with the exception of the
transporter info and
recomendations. The transporter stuff is probably something everyone can
benefit from.


Thanks To All In Advance
			"EJ".


			





- --
"EJ"
Hamilton Township(suburb of Trenton)
New Jersey
On digest, not regular
mail

                                  				
1979 Pontiac Trans Am T-tops(403 organ donor for the Calais)
     For Sale. Info at www.1pontiac.com - Bulletin Boards - Cars For
     Sale/Wanted - 79 T/A For Sale - E.J. posted Aug.29, updated Sept
     28. and Oct. 1(sorry if i knew how to make a link directly to this
     i would !, open to some "how-to" on it). Try this ...

http://www.1pontiac.com/cgi-bin/1pontiac-cgi/webbbs1-cgi/config.pl?read=3492
1984 Olds Cutlass Calais T-Tops 5.0L 307 4bbl-TH350-2.14 gears K+N
     (soon to be 6.6L 403 4bbl-Performer Cam(mild) and Intake).
1985 Olds Toronado 5.0L 307 4bbl-AOD(newly acquired Sept. 98).
1992 Lincoln Mark VII LSC Moonroof 5.0L 302 EFI HO-AOD-3.27 gears
     inner fender baffle removed-K+N.
1992 Ford F-250 Reg-Cab 4WD 7.5L 460 EFI-E4OD Auto-3.55 gears.
     3-inch converter-dual outlet flowmaster 3 chamber.
     Complete K+N(no more factory air-box)-ADS Super Chip-Spitfires-
     Accel Super Coil-Cap-Rotor & 8.8 wires.
1994 Toyota Camry Sedan 4-banger-(Wow we could have had a V6!)-"mili
     -liter"-AOD. K+N (why did I even bother, still a slug!)
     My SO's rider

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 11:22:24 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: rearview mirror

My rearview mirror has a shimmy. Someone suggested putting some loctite on the
ball. Has anyone ever tried this or have a better way of dealing with this
problem?
TIA
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 11:23:30 -0500 (EST)
From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu>
Subject: re: add another to the fleet...

Got the '79 titled and tagged the other day... been driving it.
Tag... 171 EDN

Strangely... and coincidentally... the title number contains my
birthday... 10/17/76.  That and the prvious tag number contained the first
3 letters of my Rover's VIN number... wierd huh?

Found some seat covers in my storage area (read the Rover's boot) that fit
the front buckets good... looks MUCH better... gonna swap my 15" SSII's
onto it (has steel wheels now w/out hubcaps) as soon as I can afford
tires... which it needs badly.

BTW, speaking of the ahem... storage area... anybody needing any '73 Caddy
parts... got real nice fender skirts, hubcaps, HEI distribs, engine parts
(472-500), complete 472 (apart), rear end (don't know ratio) etc.  Power
window for front door.   For cheap ;-)  If interested contact me.  (not
really expecting to get any responses)  (No... the 472 is NOT in the
Rover's trunk :-)


    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
 |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
 |  |  |
 |  |  |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
 | / \ |
 |/   \|     1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
  \   /         (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
   \ /          http://www.442.com/pierce.html
    |        1980 Rover 3500 SD1
	        (215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/othercars.html
     	     1979 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
		(260 V8, 2bbl, TH350)
	     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
		(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/bonneville.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 10:26:33 +0000
From: MB0 <MB0@americancentury.com>
Subject: 69 fender (inside color) and lower support bracket

lower front support brackets  for fenders?

Chris Sparks wrote:

Huh?  What is this part?

- -

Ok. On the very lower underside of the front of the fender, there is a
tubular shaped bracket that connects the bottom of the fender to the
core support. The portion of the bracket that attaches to the fender has
a rubberized pad between the bracket and the fender, I assume for
cushion/flexibility. The pad is permanently attached to the bracket. I
need to locate a replacement, left and right, if possible.

Mike Baugher
69 Cutlass S convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 11:28:47 -0400
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: Tranny Shop in New England Needed

Uncle Pete Asked:

> Looks like I might need a new tranny in my '82 Olds.  Its a basic TH350
> behind the 403.  I'd like to get a tranny with a shift kit installed (I
> like firm shifts), but most tranny shops won't do it.  I do NOT need it
> installed.  Just cash & carry.

I've used the following shop a coupla times; both with the Cutlass and
with a furrin job I owned about 10 years ago.  They have a decent reputation
in my area.  Dunno if they'd do performance mods like you're looking for,
doesn't hurt to ask:

METROWEST TRANSMISSIONS
150 Speen St.
Framingham, MA  01701
(508)  626 - 0515



Tim Churchill        OCA #30327           Framingham, MA
- ------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 08:32:02 -0700
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: 69 fender (inside color) and lower support bracket

MB0 wrote:

> cushion/flexibility. The pad is permanently attached to the bracket. I
> need to locate a replacement, left and right, if possible.

I guess I'll have to get under my car to look at this.

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 11:33:57 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 69 fender (inside color) and lower support bracket

>> Also, is there a resource for replacement lower front support >brackets
for fenders? I'd like to replace the bracket that has the rubberish
"cushion" permanently attached to it. The rubber is bad and there doesn't
seem to be a way to remove it. I've checked Year One
>Huh?  What is this part?


If you run your hand under the front fender, below the marker lights, it's
the piece that the fender mounts to. Two 1/2" or 9/16" bolts are used.

Randy

P.S. I may have a good set off of a 72 Supreme if you can't find new ones.
let me know and I'll check the condition of them.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 08:42:02 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 68-72 A Body Heater Cores

> Unlike the problems with changing the blower motor (been there, done
>that too), which _does_ require removal of the fender.
> Joe Padavano

Unless you cut a hole in the inner fender- :-)

I talked to a guy that has a '68 H/O for sale and he said that someone
had cut a hole in one of the RED inner fenders to do just that.

Makes you kind of sick doesn't it?


Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 08:46:41 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 1970 Twilight Blue Metallic:Any Pics ??

Go to this website. His car is Twilight Blue (and so was Mr. Hankey
before someone painted him Brown). It's a good looking color.

http://members.tripod.com/~nichibei/olds.htm




Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 12:04:39 -0400
From: "Johnny Gage" <bladernr@roava.net>
Subject: Re: BAD Olds Owners (Long)

- -----Original Message-----
From: Olds Omega <oldsomega73@yahoo.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, October 07, 1998 9:47 AM
Subject: BAD Olds Owners (Long)


>Well have TWO, yes TWO horrible stories to tell.  The first happened a
>few days ago as I was filling up my car (a Chevy Monte Carlo SS, I



Those guys need to be castrated...  THey cant be allowed to reproduce and
spread their brand of poor taste and bad manners to the rest of the auto
loving world...

that kind of stuff makes me sick...  Like the guy I saw at myrtle beach with
the Ch*vy K1500 4X4 that was dropped tot he ground and had those obnoxious
wheels that stuck out at leas 8 inches from the fenders...

thoughts like those make me shudder, and fear for the few classics that are
left today...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 12:10:15 -0400
From: "Johnny Gage" <bladernr@roava.net>
Subject: Re: BAD Olds Owners (Long)

- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew C. Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, October 07, 1998 11:05 AM
Subject: Re: BAD Olds Owners (Long)


>> "I want to sell it (at this point I'm think TO ME, SELL IT TO ME)
>> so that I can buy a (sigh) HONDA PRELUDE or SUBARU IMPREZA, but my
>> parents won't let me." I had heard enough at that point and left,
>> just completely WALKED away.  BASTARD! That car was sooo cool and
>> he hated it? What a fool.


One more thought, ya shoulda told him you would work on the parents for
him...  sweet talk them, convince them that they should sell...  and if
not...  ummm...  send two large italian men to make them see the truth...
hehehe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 08:57:43 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: 68-72 Cutlass Inner (Upper?) Trailing Arm Size

Any one have a 68-72 cutlass differential trailing arms handy ?-- the
upper/inner ones, not the lower/outer ones.

I'm trying to determine if these are the same dimensions as the 66 big car
upper/inner arms.

Could you measure the distance from the centers of the bolt holes for me and
post it? Width would
be good too.

I know this doesn't make sound right, but I've already determined that the
lowers fit and my mechanic said
it's much smarter to put both on, if they fit, as opposed to  just the
lowers.

Look forward to your posts
TIA

cf

PS: the power seat saga continues. Looks like the hot tip is to mount the 6
way system, narrowed onto
the pedestals from the 1966 4 way seat. More as the swap continues.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 07:32:34 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Performance Exhaust 1985 442

Why yes!  There are a few available.  Some are listed as Monte SS or GN
exhaust, and may require very minor mods (where the cat attaches) to
fit.  The stock one is pretty good.  An equivalent replacement would be
the Walker Dynomax system.  The next step up would be the Hooker 2.5"
system that I have (there's a link to pictures of it off of
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz/hurst.html).  There's a stainless 2.5" dual
system available from ATR (their address is on
http://ni.umd.edu/gnttype/www, the Turbo Regal home page.  I'd have got
this system over the Hooker if I could afford it.), a 3" stainless
single pipe system from ATR (warning: loud!), and a 3" true dual system
available from Torque Tech (will require headers and tranny cross member
mods, not emissions legal).

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 11:59:02 EDT
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 fender (inside color) and lower support bracket

Group-

Save the metal bracket and have a piece of rubber/old tire mounted to it from
a muffler shop. The rubber bit is the same mat'l most muffler shops use for
hangers.

Peter
CoupeKing

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 10:53:57 -0500
From: "John Kreitzer" <john.kreitzer@gte.net>
Subject: Re: rearview mirror

If your mirror is like the one in my 72 H/O, there is a lock down strap
under that holds it tight. It's under the rubber cover on the headliner. If
yours is stuck to the windshield or some other such thing, disregard this
post.
My $.02

John
- -----Original Message-----
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, October 08, 1998 10:27 AM
Subject: rearview mirror


>My rearview mirror has a shimmy. Someone suggested putting some loctite on
the
>ball. Has anyone ever tried this or have a better way of dealing with this
>problem?
>TIA
>Bruce
>75 Delta 88 conv.
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 12:08:21 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: RE: Olds and Holley

<< because holleys blow >>

<< I have had one Holley in my life, and I will never, never, never ever
have another one. They may be fine for racing, but on a street driven car
that gets driven infrequently, they suck. Long live the Q-Jet!>>

Not withstanding the maturity of the above mentioned comments, I have had
the opposite experience. I ALWAYS replace Q-jets, Motorcrafts, and Carters
(of any sort) with Holley Carbs. I have used everything from 600 vac. sec.
(0-1850) to 850 dbl. pmp. (0-4781) on street driven cars. They all ran
perfectly. Some ran perfectly right out of the box, some required minor
tuning. It was the engine's requirements, not the carb that created the need
for tuning. Most people who think Holleys "suck" (isn't that the engine
sucking?), either don't know how to work on them or have had mechanics who
don't know how to work on them. Neither of which I understand since the
Holley design is beautifully simple and easily adjustable. I've always been
able to set it and forget it. Everybody that I've ever seen with Holley carb
problems have trashy fuel / poor filtration, or incorrect jetting. One
common mistake is putting in smaller jets when you have a bog problem.
BIGGER jets tend to cure bog problems as this condition is caused by too
much air and too little fuel.
Now if it's gas mileage you want stick with those tiny Q-jet primaries
(though I suggest a Holley spread bore). But at the current price of gas,
who cares?
Holley has just upgraded their tooling and I expect their products to get
even better. Just my .02

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 10:57:37 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@wans.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Pans

Greg Rollin wrote:
>
> Stephen Hoover wrote:
>
> > Is there any actual difference in the regular small block and big block
> > oil pans? Most resto places list two different part numbers, but
> > companies like Milodon only list one. I know the Toro pan is different.
> > What's up with this?
>
> Stephen,
> The main difference between the 65-72 small block pans and the
> big block ones is the baffle used on the big block pans.  This baffle
> is designed to keep the pump pickup submerged in oil under hard
> deceleration/braking.  Now just why the Olds engineers felt this
> was not necessary on the small blocks (even the W-31's),
> I couldn't say.
>
> I have not seen the Milodon "OE" replacement pan to know
> whether it has the baffle or not.  Most Milodon and Moroso
> deep pans do use the big block style baffle.
>
> Greg Rollin
> Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
> http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
> E-mail: supercars@transport.com


Thanks for this information. The Milodon pan does have baffling in it
and so does the 'el cheapo pan that PAW sells.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

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Date: Thu, 08 Oct 1998 10:38:03 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)

Hi Brian,

	I must warn you before hand that I'm not a mechanic and I've only done
this once, but yes you can replace all those main bearings and probably
the whole seal.  If you heard all this before then please ignore me.
Also note that I did this on a 400 F*rd but it should be the same on an
Olds.

	Just loosen the main(s) beside the one you wish to replace, remove the
main cap, and use the new bearing to push the old one around the crank
and out.  To do this you need to:

	1) make sure everything is _very_ clean.  I washed my hands before and
had a clean ice cream bucket full of new clean oil that I used to wash
the bearings in.  Inspect each bearing before it goes into place (have
good lighting) to make sure it's oily but clean.  A little chunk of dirt
on the soft (babbet ?) side of the bearing will score it and dirt on the
other side will keep the bearing from sitting properly during
installation.  Dirt on the caps will interfere with how the bearing sits
on them and how they sit against the block.  Basically dirt is very bad
in this part of the motor.

	2) understand how main bearings are kept from spinning.  If you look at
the bearing you'll see a little punched piece sticking out.  This fits
into a grove on the block or cap.  If I recall correctly these are
directional because the engine will only turn one way (when under load
and running).  You should not push the bearing around the crank the
wrong way.  Plus they must be installed so the little catch sits in the
groove.  If any of this is unclear then please email me and I will try
to clear it up.

After you replace the cap tighten it and its neighbor(s) but do not
torque then until your done all of them and then start by making sure
all are at least 1/2 the final torque before following the tightening
pattern.  That is to say don't tighten one to 100 ft/lbs while it's
neighbor is finger tight.

I forget exactly how I replaced the top of the main seal but it was
similar.  Please note that if you do put silicone on it then the block
and pan must be totally clean and free of oil or the silicone will not
stick.  This is difficult under your current working conditions.  I
think I used carb spray to wash the oil from around the area.  This
stuff is probably very flammable so take care around open fire and your
trouble light.  Silicone adhesive makes rubber parts slippery and they
will move around easier on metal.  This may be good for getting it in
place but it can be a problem if the part slips out of place when you
apply pressure.  If you do use it (I used some but not much on the
seals) then watch that none is on the crank.  That would stick the seal
to the (moving) crank and you loose that seal as soon as the motor
starts.  Also watch if you put silicon on the pan gasket that you don't
over tighten it.  The gasket will slide right out from between the block
and pan.  Oh, and of course, be sure that you use the correct silicon.
GM sells some black stuff that would make it nearly impossible to remove
the pan once it sets.

As far as your tranny leaking I think that pretty normal under it's
current tilted condition.  There was a long thread about that here a
little while ago so you may wish to search the archives.

Your comment about the fuel pump being difficult is really quite funny
(no offence).  It's about 100 times easier to replace then what you're
doing now.  But I missed the part about why you would care about it.  I
guess someone suggested that it's leaking out of the "weep" hole.  My
understanding is that weep holes are to let fluid out rather than
pressuring up the wrong area.  With the fuel pump I think it's to keep
fuel from going into the oilpan if the diaphragm goes.  I heard of
engines with large amounts of gas in the oil blowing the rocker covers
right off the engine.  You mentioned that it is clean around the pump.
This may indicate that it is close to your leak because the oil from the
engine will clean off the old dirt.  I would finish what you have
started, put a little grease over the weep hole, and run the engine.  If
you still have a leak and the grease is gone suspect the pump.

As far as the oil pump goes I would install it as is and get your engine
put back together.  Before you fire it up you can take the distributor
out (mark where the rotor is pointing and place a mark on the
distributor body and the engine before you pull it) and use the drill.
Someone else on the list will be able to correct me but a big drill may
even be able to pressure your system up enough to run you oil
gauge/idiot light.  Otherwise just run it for a minute or two.
Personally (my opinion) with an engine that has already gone 150k+ miles
I would just forget this step.  I think it's probably a very good idea
for a fresh engine because your internals are dry.  Look at it this way,
people will leave a car for 6 months without running it and then crank
it over.  Some people (I used to do this) will install a dry oil filter
and then fire up the motor.  But to be safest do the drill thing.

Good luck and please be careful under there.  Stuck under an engine
during a fire would be a hell of a bad place to be.  Having your fingers
severed by the engine falling off the bottle jack be a concern too.
Remember that I may be way off here so wait for the other members to
correct me before trying this.  Closed road and professional driver etc,
etc.

Cliff
'69 442/400/th400/checking the diff for codes soon J

Brian Ammons wrote:
> Chilton's makes it
> sound like it's possible to replace the upper one as well, WITHOUT lifting
> the motor or transmission out, but I don't really know about that...
>
> SHOULD I REPLACE THE BEARING IN THIS ONE CAP?  ARE THEY EVEN SOLD
> INDIVIDUALLY?
>
> And here's another question - my transmission didn't leak before I jacked
> the engine up, why is it SLOWLY (a drop every five minutes) leaking now?
> It SEEMS to be leaking from the speedo cable attachment, but that seems
> pretty strange.
>
> I don't understand the bit about the fuel pump "weep hole" leaking - I
> don't understand why there is oil involved in the fuel pump at all, and I
> sure don't know what a "weep hole" is.  The area around the pump seems to
> be free of oil deposits, so at this point, I'm kind of reluctant to delay
> completion of the project in order to take this on as well - it seems like
> the pump would be pretty hard to remove.
>
> KEEP IT COMING, YA'LL (hello from Texas!)!!! If I have ANY kind of luck at
> all, I can get this thing back together for the weekend.

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1539
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