Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1563


oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, October 21 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1563



Grille Paint ?
83 Calais for sale in Philly; sorry no t-tops
Re: replacement for jetaway
Re: Mileage on 75 Cutlass
W-30 Red Fender-Well Paint
Re: Grille Paint ?
Holeshot 3000 10" 4sale
Re: Grille Paint ?
Re: UHHH, Ray?.Nope
Re: what is html?
Re: Sound Deadener? and silencing tips
MORE WOES (I know, I suck, anyway...)
CREEPY CRAWLIES
UNBOUNCE: ISO Olds Calendar
UNBOUNCE: NOS PArts ID
[Fwd: Re: Olds Qudrajet]
403 -> 409ci
Re: MORE WOES (I know, I suck, anyway...)
rebuilding a 307...
Re: CREEPY CRAWLIES
Re: CREEPY CRAWLIES
Re: CREEPY CRAWLIES
Re: W-30 Red Fender-Well Paint
Re: UNBOUNCE: ISO Olds Calendar
Re: rebuilding a 307...
Re: MORE WOES (I know, I suck, anyway...)
Olds Calendar
Re: 403 -> 409ci
RE: MORE WOES (I know, I suck, anyway...)
Re: MORE WOES (I know, I suck, anyway...)
Re: MORE WOES (I know, I suck, anyway...)
Re: MORE WOES (I know, I suck, anyway...)
69 Tail light lens gasket?
Re: 69 Tail light lens gasket?
And So It Begins....Project Rochester.
Re: Olds Calendar
UNBOUNCE: Olds Quadrajet
Re: rebuilding a 307...
Importing Vehicles
Re: MORE WOES (I know, I suck, anyway...)
Re: MORE WOES (I know, I suck, anyway...)
Are these the same???
Re: MORE WOES (I know, I suck, anyway...)
Re: Are these the same???
Re: Are these the same???
Re: Are these the same???
Re: Are these the same???

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 19:37:46 -0700
From: "Corey Day" <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Grille Paint ?

Has anyone been able to replicate the "dull" metallic silver paint that is
used on the grilles?  I have a 1970 Cutlass S.  I have seen variations in
several  original pairs, but would like some input.

Thanks in advance-

Corey Day
dayc@ix.netcom.com
1970 Cutlass S - 455
www.netcom.com/~dayc/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 10:31:48 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: 83 Calais for sale in Philly; sorry no t-tops

Hi all.  My Dad's gotta an Olds for sale.  Here's the deal:
1983 Cutlass Calais
V6
brown interior, very good condition
bucket seats
console/shifter
guage package
no overdrive
14" SSIII's
straight body
needs paint, and the vinyl roof's pretty beat
ac, pl, pw, tilt wheel
110K miles
$1500 or best offer!
name Joe: daytime number (215) 333-5144, Philadelphia
call if interested or want to make an offer...

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 22:36:28 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: replacement for jetaway

My 56 has the Jetaway-Hydramatic ...and I wonder if a 350 tranny would bolt
up to a
Jetaway that old.
_______

Ryan,

While it won't bolt up, due to the early Olds having a different
bellhousing bolt pattern, Dave Smith Engineering sells a conversion kit.
Part number is DS7080, costing $550.  This conversion kit "includes all
adapters, modified case, bolts, and fasteners.  Customer must supply
tranmission case and flywheel."  I take it from this that he welds and
redrills the bellhousing bolt holes in a later transmission to fit the
early block.  I assume, since he also needs the flywheel, that he drills
the early Olds flywheel for a later torque converter pattern.  He says this
can be done with virtually any later GM tranny (PG, TH350, TH400, or
700R4).  Naturally, you must disassemble the trans before shipping him the
case and rebuild it when you get the case back.  I suspect you'll also be
fabricating mounts and adapting the linkage.  If you're still interested,
call Dave at (909) 371-7040.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 22:54:57 EDT
From: TimLeary97@aol.com
Subject: Re: Mileage on 75 Cutlass

What did the spark plugs look like before you changed them?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 22:04:55 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: W-30 Red Fender-Well Paint

is there a color that can match the red used on the W-30 fenderwells in
70-72? If so what name brand is it?


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 23:06:17 -0400
From: "Brian Lorway" <lorway@home.net>
Subject: Re: Grille Paint ?

Krylon #1403 Dull Aluminium is an exact match.

Brian

1970 4-4-2 W-30, 4-Speed
1971 4-4-2 W-30, Convertible
1987 GN (WE2)
OCA # 028157
www.wmachines.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: Corey Day <dayc@ix.netcom.com>


>Has anyone been able to replicate the "dull" metallic silver paint that is
>used on the grilles?  I have a 1970 Cutlass S.  I have seen variations in
>several  original pairs, but would like some input.
>Corey Day

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 22:11:06 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Holeshot 3000 10" 4sale

I am selling a B&M Holeshot 3000 10" torque converter. It will fit any Olds
TH-350/TH-400 transmission. IT came off of an Olds 350 with a TH-350. Less
than 4 months use on it. Works perfectly. Taken off of car because too much
stall for regular street driving(especially on a small block). $200.00

E-MAIL PRIVATLEY!!!!!

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 23:11:50 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Grille Paint ?

> Has anyone been able to replicate the "dull" metallic silver paint that is
> used on the grilles?  I have a 1970 Cutlass S.  I have seen variations in
> several  original pairs, but would like some input.
>
Krylon Dull Aluminum works wonders for restoring the silvery finish on
the grilles.  Word of caution, you want to spray evenly and not too
heavy.  A few light even coats will probably give you the look you're
after.  Have personally used this myself and others on the list can
attest that it's a very good match.  And without spending 30 bucks per
pint to do it.  Probably one of the cheapest restoration items out
there.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 23:53:45 EDT
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: UHHH, Ray?.Nope

I didn't get a chance, it was in Phoenix, maybe Ill see it in the future, Id
like to.

Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 23:15:55 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: what is html?

> What is html other than what I see at the end of an internet address?  Is
> this when I see things such as:

Normally, I'd leave it alone, but the other replies missed the actual question,
I suspect, so here goes...

Html is, yes, a computer language for internet usage, short for hypertext 
markup
language.  All true.  But, for our purposes, html is a formatting feature of
many modern mail readers.  These insert html codes into the mail message, and
add features such as color, fonts, italics, text size, backgound colors and
images, etc.  All of these can be added into an e-mail message's content.  
These
are the features that cause problems, since the chebucto digest feature turns
everything into ascii-type plain text.  All the formatting codes for html
features are revealed as codes, and some show up as unidentifyable characters,
mostly gibberish.  At times, this gibberish can trigger other events, like a
certain character code might trigger a carriage return, (blank line) or a new
page, etc...  What ~could~ result is pages of garbage for the digest folks, and
for some of the realtime users who are on pine, etc.

The simple cure is finding the menu in the mail app for html usage.  Netscape,
IE4, etc. all have some feature for turning HTML off.  If in doubt, check your
documentation.  I had a fellow email me last night, just to ask if his messages
were coming through as plain text or as html.  He was fine.  (I'd mentioned in 
a
prior list mail for him to turn it off, but he apparantly had replied to a
message that was already html coded.  He was fine...)

Enough bandwidth from me on the subject.  If there are still questions on the
topic, ask away, but I'm hoping this cleared it up.

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 23:35:50 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Sound Deadener? and silencing tips

> > Changing carpet on my 72 442. Use tar paper or rubber ?
> Tar paper?!  I thought there was a jute under there.

Some of the older ones had a tarpaper type deadener ~in spots~ on the floor.
There's a jute layer laid down, and then the carpet glued to that.
Recommendations?  I've had ~great~ luck using Accumat, Dynamat, etc.  The
rubberized type stuff, in adhesive sheets.  Make sure the floor to be coverred
is perfectly clean before applying this stuff.  Many forms work great.  It 
boils
down to whether you are after 100% stock original, or just want a quiet ride.
If true silence is your game, then use the rubber sheets (easy to find, easier
to work with, and cleaner.)  Depending on what you're after, you can use sheets
in certain location, a solid coverring, or even two layers, if desired, 
although
that's overkill.  The ~best~ sound killing technique would be t fully clean the
floorpan, cover it with the sound deadenner, then lay down a 3/8" (or so...)
layer of just material, and then lay down the carpet.  If it's a jute-backed
carpet, some trimming may be required, but the ride will be nice and quiet :)

More tips.  Before laying down any of it, check all grommets, all seals, and 
all
plugs in or around the floorpan (especially around the drain/body plugs) and
make sure they're ~sealed~.  Check the firewall for any holes, cracks, orifices
where moisture may seep in.  Same for rear body areas, pillars, etc.  If ~any~
water gets under that carpet, it'll stay there.  Forever.  And start growing
mold, mildew, etc.  Nasty.

Nother tip.  Did this on a car or two...  Had to strip the interior for it, but
I lined the 1/4 panel around the back seat area with the sound deadenner, and
then a layer of fiberglass insulation (apply to heart's content, making sure
window's open freely)  Stuff enough up there to seal the trunk off somewhat.
Treat the doors the same.  (Use some really good glue that won't come off with
water, though.  And make sure the door drains are clear, when finished.)
Dynamat the trunk floor, and then lay down the normal trunk mat over that.  
Take
the spray-on rubberized undercoating and treat the trunk area 1/4 panels.  Then
spray them with the trunk-style splatter paint.  Maybe stick some panels on the
trunk lid, if desired.  The roof area is dying to get quieted down a bit, but
that involves pulling the headliner.  Only do that if you're replacing it.  Try
to retain the original insulators behind the back seat, to retain the original
appearance.

If ~all~ of that is done, you'd probably expect to add about 80lbs to the car
(That's a ~lot~ of deadenner being used there, but for arguement's sake...)
You'll ~notice~ a much quieter ride, and your heater will work much better in
the winter.  AC will probably be a bit more efficient, but the glass has a big
effect there still (tinting? :)

Every little bit helps.  That aftermarket sound deadenning stuff is ~spendy~ 
but
well worth it!

In HS, I treated my mom's f*rd Export to an insul treatment in the doors.
Normally, on a winter day, you'd come back to the car after 10 minutes and it
was already freezing.  After, the interior stayed ~warm~ for over a half hour
after shutting down.  Major improvement.  Similar improvement for the Rockit,
when it had a similar treatment, but the doors never got done.  (Waiting for
~good~ ones to treat ;)
- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 02:31:21 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: MORE WOES (I know, I suck, anyway...)

Well, kids...there's SOME good news, but more of the bad kind.

The car runs (I said as much when I asked for vacuum diagrams, which I'm
incidentally still looking for - and to everyone who offered other years,
I'm pretty sure it's particular-year-specific), but it SMOKES!  It smokes A
LOT!

'Twould appear that the driver's side valve cover gasket replacement was
successful.  No leaks, no smoke, HU-RAH!!.  The passenger side, however, is
giving the EPA (and my neighbors) nightmares.  There's oil seeping onto the
area right around the #5 spark plug (passenger side, first plug from front
of engine), which of course eventually runs down to the exhaust manifold,
where it catches on fire.  I am somewhat heartened by the fact that the
driver's side was my responsibility, and the passenger's was my friend's
(who has much more repair experience than me - besides, I WATCHED him put
it on, and _I_ thought he did it right), but this is tempered by the fact
that after two weeks of work the car still isn't right.  My friend feels
really bad about it, and has promised to fix it with me.  He brought up a
good point - that there's no bolt holes directly above where it's leaking
from, so how were we SUPPOSED to avoid this problem...

There also seems to be A LOT of oil (and smoke) on the bottom-inside of the
exhaust manifold, supposedly (in MY nightmares) coming from the
well-maybe-that's-good-enough job I did on replacing the oil pan gasket.
What happened was I set all four gasket pieces up on the pan, used a fair
amount of RTV to make all the seals nice and pretty, and THEN, when I went
to put the pan back on, managed to rip every single gasket off the pan by
knocking it around on all the stuff in that area.  Stupid, I know, but it's
done now.  So I freaked (because all that RTV is drying by the second,
right?), and slapped the seals back on the pan, and was PRETTY sure that I
got them all on right and the pan up onto the block correctly.  I then
proceeded to torque all the bolts down to Chilton's spec, and even managed
to break off one of the bolt heads for reasons unknown.  Someone mentioned
that I paid too much attention to the torque specs, and should have just
bolted them down until it "felt right" - comments?  I'm not going to tell
you what torque setting the manual said at first, I want to see what ya'll
say.

So now, of course, there's oil on the gasket area around (you guessed it)
the broken bolt.  This is also conspicuously close to where all the oil is
on the manifold.  I will need to put the car on ramps and run it to confirm
the leak, but it looks like probably no joy in Muddville.

QUESTION -

HOW ARE YOU SUPPOSED TO INSTALL THE OIL PAN SEALS?  Do you put all four of
them on the PAN (using RTV between the gasket and the pan) and then put RTV
on TOP of the GASKETS?  Or is it RTV on the block?  Or is it put half the
gaskets (front and rear?) on the block, and the other half (left and right)
on the pan?  Or the other way around?  Do you just use RTV on the flat
surfaces between the seals or (like me, who put all four seals on the pan)
do you form extra RTV against the front and rear seals on the inside of the
pan to create an "impenetrable barrier"?  WHO KNOWS?

QUESTION -

I went to Parts America and bought a new water temp sensor (mine was
disintegrating).  Fine and good.  Except that I remember there being a
choice on the computer screen there about whether I was getting a sensor
for an idiot light, or a gauge - I have an idiot light, and that's what I
bought for, but I got to thinking (still haven't installed it) that for the
$12 or whatever it cost me, I sure would like to get one that will work
with...the three pack of gauges that I would (I guess) like to install in
the car.  You know, the kind with Oil Pres./Water Temp/Voltmeter on it.
Does anyone know if there IS a difference in sensors?

QUESTION -

Does anyone recommend what kind/brand of gauge package to buy?  All I want
is NICE, ACCURATE, somewhat attractive stuff that could POSSIBLY be removed
at a later date and put in another car of the same lineage (I have a
4-door, would someday like to again own a 2-door).  I guess I would just
mount it under the ashtray, hanging from the dash - or maybe mounted on the
transmission hump.

The part about moving it to another car isn't nuts, either - this car is
TRANSPORTATION that is also serving as a nice learning experience, so if
(when) I ever get rich, I can buy really expensive junkers and at least
have SOME clue about what I'm doing.  Although learning around all of this
emissions crap is really driving me nuts...

I got a lot of great help previously (and could have gotten more if I
tried, THANKS LOU!!!)  Sure would like some more.
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 02:44:42 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: CREEPY CRAWLIES

I'm thinking I need to buy a Creepy Crawly (you know, a board on wheels,
that you lay on your back on while working on cars).

Does anyone have a favorite brand, or know of some particular feature to
look for?  I know it's not Rocket Science, but I would like to buy one that
EVERYONE would be happy with (and that will make ME happy)...especially
since I only plan on buying one in my lifetime.

Rubber wheels?  Metal?  One plank?  Three?  Tool trays on the side?

OR IS THIS REALLY JUST A BIG WASTE OF MONEY?
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 06:47:07 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: ISO Olds Calendar

Respond to ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Chris <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: calendar

Hello - does anyone know if there is such a thing as a calendar that
specializes in Oldsmobile pictures - preferably  60's and 70's?  I am
looking for one for an Xmas present.

Thanks Chris

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 06:48:07 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: NOS PArts ID

Can't use the "h*lp" word... forwarding.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject:  h*lp idintify N.O.S. parts

 anyone have knowledge on NOS parts

have 3 truck loads  needs info

parts from 70's to 90's    jeff  olds guy ga

770  723-9345

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 06:18:10 -0400
From: Gregg & Mary Ludlam <gmrocket@southport.net>
Subject: [Fwd: Re: Olds Qudrajet]

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- --------------302F3149555
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Gang,

If you need a Quadrajet, this guy can help you out!

Gregg
- --
Gregg and Mary Ludlam - Long Beach, NC
'67 Toronado Deluxe/'72 Cutlass S
See the Toro at http://www.442.com/ludlam.html
or at http://www.toronado.org/gregg.htm

- --------------302F3149555
Content-Type: message/rfc822
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

X-POP3-Rcpt: gmrocket@surf
Return-Path: <buick455@juno.com>
Received: from m20.boston.juno.com (m20.boston.juno.com [205.231.101.190])
	by surf.wil.net (8.8.5/8.8.5) with ESMTP id TAA02812
	for <gmrocket@southport.net>; Tue, 20 Oct 1998 19:30:25 -0400
Received: (from buick455@juno.com)
 by m20.boston.juno.com (queuemail) id DR2Q5QLR; Tue, 20 Oct 1998 19:03:48 EDT
To: gmrocket@southport.net
Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 18:59:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Olds Qudrajet
Message-ID: <19981020.185909.3662.0.buick455@juno.com>
References: <3628D0C6.580C@southport.net>
X-Mailer: Juno 1.49
X-Juno-Line-Breaks: 2,5,7,9-23
From: buick455@juno.com (John K Chamberlain)

Hi Gregg: I did some digging today and after looking through hundreds of
carbs, I came across ONE 7027130 in the AC Delco rebuild box. Price is
$275.00 +shipping.
If you'd like it, send me a money order to PO Box 355 Haslett, Mi 48840
and I'll send it right out. As an aside, I found about 4 NOS 7027157s,
which of course fit all other 67
Olds 400-425s. If you know of anyone interested in any of those, they are
$375.00. Let me know if intersted in anything. Thanks! John Chamberlain
On Sat, 17 Oct 1998 13:15:50 -0400 Gregg & Mary Ludlam
<gmrocket@southport.net> writes:
>Hi!
>
>I saw you ad on page 7682 of the October '98 Hemmings Motor News.  I'm
>looking for a Q-Jet for my '67 Olds Toronado, #7027131.  I could also
>use a #7027130 or #7027132 if need-be.  If you have either of these
>beauties, drop me a line with your price.  Thanks in advance!!!
>
>Gregg
>--
>Gregg and Mary Ludlam - Long Beach, NC
>'67 Toronado Deluxe/'72 Cutlass S
>See the Toro at http://www.442.com/ludlam.html
>or at http://www.toronado.org/gregg.htm
>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]


- --------------302F3149555--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 07:56:18 -0400
From: "<GJC> Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: 403 -> 409ci

Hello all;

I poised this question to the main list some weeks ago. Never really got a
response.

I'm interested in all info on the Olds 403ci engine. I understand the block
is of an Open web design". I've not had an Olds block open yet, (everything
but).

I'm looking for any internet based info on the 403ci Olds engine. From GM
tech links to personal cars that include their specific engine specs and
performance changes/outcomes. Particularly interest in 403's taken wild...

Are all Olds small block of this "open web" design or just the 403?

I understand there is one or two years that the 403 had a solid block, any
info?

What 403 years of production have what stock Hp + torque figures?

Are converting to BB heads a good idea? which heads?

What years SB heads are best?

Nodular (spelling) crank, please explain.

Anyone running fuel injection on a 403, 455?

Anyone know of a custom header producer? I'm looking for maybe 25+ sets of
custom bent headers for turbo purposes. I've got a local exhaust bender for
all the rest. Heck, I might even produce more + offer a complete bolt on
turbo setup (carb/injection) for Olds.

I understand that a Ponti*c has the largest Q-Jet offered. Either 800 or 850
cfm, (Karl?).

I'm trying to standardize the IROC-SS project's "mild offering on a 403,
err, 409. With the top end unit all 455, err (->?). I believe I have a
handle on a co. that will produce me a custom heater/AC box for the 455
clearance factors. Huummm, bet these will sell many to the open G-body
sector.

My custom Ram Air prototype system is installed on Quincy. With minor
materials and process changes, It's ready for a production run. I'm looking
for an AC specialist to custom bend/create an intercooler I'm designing for
the turbo based cars.

Are the 442 + GN's the only G-body using the AC cut out switch at WOT?

Looking for anyone with a pile of 403's + 455's or even singles as cores to
sale. Belly up to the bar.

The stock (307) version will receive a fresh quality (crate) engine and
Trans replacements. Anyone say Warrantee...

A complete refurbished base rearend of 3.08 posi is planned.

Anyone convert their G-body to standard? I understand many El Cami*os were
released in standard. Need info/parts on their peddle/shifter/Trans setups.
In fact Quincy is barking to be standard! Haven't checked with Ch*vy about
these parts availability yet but sure many are discontinued. I probably can
replicate if I get a complete setup intact.

So, as you can see, Couse Customs might also become an Olds performance
house with some unique separate offerings above, (and from) the IROC-SS
project. After all, it's cheaper to make 300 or 3,000 than 30 of any one
item. Everyone say, Yeahhhh....

Well you get my drift. So please respond to me directly any info or links or
contacts you have to this info at:

Mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

No need to inundate both lists with this thread. I'll post the best info and
findings in one post.

When the IROC-SS site is up I'll probably include a 403 - 455 section
containing the cream if this stock/custom info crop.

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
ICQ# 5209322
Mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com
  
'86 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS = "Quincy"

Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List -
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody

Once a member, post to:
olds_gbody@listbot.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 06:10:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: MORE WOES (I know, I suck, anyway...)

Brian,

I can't help you with any of your other questions, but I can help you
with this one......

.......................................................

QUESTION -

I went to Parts America and bought a new water temp
sensor (mine was
disintegrating).  Fine and good.  Except that I
remember there being a
choice on the computer screen there about whether I
was getting a sensor
for an idiot light, or a gauge - I have an idiot
light, and that's what I
bought for, but I got to thinking (still haven't
installed it) that for the
$12 or whatever it cost me, I sure would like to get
one that will work
with...the three pack of gauges that I would (I guess)
like to install in
the car.  You know, the kind with Oil Pres./Water
Temp/Voltmeter on it.
Does anyone know if there IS a difference in sensors?

QUESTION -

Does anyone recommend what kind/brand of gauge package
to buy?  All I want
is NICE, ACCURATE, somewhat attractive stuff that
could POSSIBLY be removed
at a later date and put in another car of the same
lineage (I have a
4-door, would someday like to again own a 2-door).  I
guess I would just
mount it under the ashtray, hanging from the dash - or
maybe mounted on the
transmission hump.

Answer

Most of the time, the 3 gauge cluster comes with a temp. sensor for
the gauge. I just bought one for my Olds a while back and that's what
mine has. The only thing that I recommend is this. Don't get one with
a mechanical temp gauge! It gives you false readings! I always thought
that my car was overheating when (After a lot of headache and money) I
found out that it was just the gauge! So definetly try to find one
that is electric!
==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 09:38:19 -0400
From: Darren King <dking@Legato.COM>
Subject: rebuilding a 307...

I'm going to rebuild the 307 in my 86 Custom Cruiser this winter.
Does anyone have any experience with custom parts for this
motor?  Most of the big catalogs just have stuff for the 350 or
455 olds engine but nothing for the lowly 307.

Darren King

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 06:38:07 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: CREEPY CRAWLIES

> I'm thinking I need to buy a Creepy Crawly (you know, a board on
> wheels, that you lay on your back on while working on cars).
>
> Does anyone have a favorite brand, or know of some particular
> feature to look for?
[...]
> Rubber wheels? Metal? One plank? Three? Tool trays on the side?

I have a favorite Sears Craftsman one, all wood, built like a
ton o' bricks. Not real thrilled with the casters, though; they
tend to get hung up on cracks in the floor. Next one I buy will
have larger wheels and side tool trays. Rubber wheels will roll
a little better over grit and debris. Three planks instead of
one big one make it easier to grab and carry the creeper.

Buy the heaviest grade you can find; if you're like me, halfway
through the job, getting up and down to retrieve tools, etc.,
you stop gently lowering yourself onto the thing and start
just dumping yourself on it in exhaustion, so buy one that will
withstand heavy objects such as yourself landing on it hard.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 08:54:50 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: CREEPY CRAWLIES

I bought the Jeeper Creeper at Pep Boys and it works great. I think I paid
around $40.00. It's better than crawling on your back.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: CREEPY CRAWLIES
> Date: Wednesday, October 21, 1998 2:44 AM
>
> I'm thinking I need to buy a Creepy Crawly (you know, a board on wheels,
> that you lay on your back on while working on cars).
>
> Does anyone have a favorite brand, or know of some particular feature to
> look for?  I know it's not Rocket Science, but I would like to buy one
that
> EVERYONE would be happy with (and that will make ME happy)...especially
> since I only plan on buying one in my lifetime.
>
> Rubber wheels?  Metal?  One plank?  Three?  Tool trays on the side?
>
> OR IS THIS REALLY JUST A BIG WASTE OF MONEY?
> -------------------------------------------------------------
>  Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
>  MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
>  2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
>  Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
>  1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
> 	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
>  	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
> -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 21:56:06 -0400
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: CREEPY CRAWLIES

The cheap wooden ones with the metal wheels are an exercise in futility.
Don't waste the $17.95. The good steel creepers that are REALLY low because
the back rest is between the wheel are more expensive but worth it. I had
one of those wooden creepers and switched to an old blanket. If there's any
oil dry on the floor (or small bolts and such) the metal wheels will stop
dead. That's REAL annoying. Rubber wheels are much more forgiving though
they still won't roll over a 3/8 bolt :-). I've never had a tool tray on a
creeper. It seems like there wouldn't be a convenient place to put it.
Just my .02

- -----Original Message-----

>I'm thinking I need to buy a Creepy Crawly (you know, a board on wheels,
>that you lay on your back on while working on cars).
>
>Does anyone have a favorite brand, or know of some particular feature to
>look for?  I know it's not Rocket Science, but I would like to buy one that
>EVERYONE would be happy with (and that will make ME happy)...especially
>since I only plan on buying one in my lifetime.
>
>Rubber wheels?  Metal?  One plank?  Three?  Tool trays on the side?
>
>OR IS THIS REALLY JUST A BIG WASTE OF MONEY?
>-------------------------------------------------------------
> Brian Ammons Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
> MIS Major - UT Austin b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
> 2903 Breeze Terrace http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
> Austin, TX 78722 Home : (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
> 1984 Oldsmobile (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
> Delta 88 Pager: (512) 483-8056
>   4-door (713) 318-5938
>-------------------------------------------------------------
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 08:06:36 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: W-30 Red Fender-Well Paint

W-30 inner fender were molded from red plastic.  I've never
had good luck painting plastic items like this different
colour.  Even a little peeling or scratching would be
noticable.  Sorry, maybe someone else has a better answer.


Peter Landowski wrote:
>
> is there a color that can match the red used on the W-30 fenderwells in
> 70-72? If so what name brand is it?
>
> Pettrix@prodigy.net

- --

Cliff Simpson
'69 442/400/th400/3.23p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 11:03:39 EDT
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: ISO Olds Calendar

The Hurst/Olds Club of America has put out a 1999 calaner with a different H/O
each month.




Not sure the price.

Vinny
68 Hurst/Olds
62 Olds Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 10:05:19 -0500
From: bloom@mail.gorilla.net
Subject: Re: rebuilding a 307...

Darren,
 I had the lowly 307 in a '88 chevy full size wagon and although it was
economical it was really not
enough power for that size vehicle. Now the wife drives a 3\4 ton GMC van
with a 350ci and it has
all the power in the world. If there's anyway you could go to the 350ci
you'd be amazed at the
power difference. Old's content: when a couple of kids go off to college,in
a couple of years, my Old's minded wife will gladly trade van for '67
Cutlass S. Vvrroommm!

At 09:38 AM 10/21/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I'm going to rebuild the 307 in my 86 Custom Cruiser this winter.
>Does anyone have any experience with custom parts for this
>motor?  Most of the big catalogs just have stuff for the 350 or
>455 olds engine but nothing for the lowly 307.
>
>Darren King
>
>
Fred K. (bloom@gorilla.net)
Tulsa,OK. area
'67 442
'67 Cutlass S
'67 Cutlass
		44   44  44   44  222222
		44   44  44   44   2  2
		4444444  4444444   2  2
		     44       44   2  2
		     44       44  222222
	

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 08:09:42 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: MORE WOES (I know, I suck, anyway...)

> He brought up a good point - that there's no bolt holes directly
> above where it's leaking from, so how were we SUPPOSED to avoid this
> problem.

My guess is that something got overtightened and warped the sealing
surface between the bolts, bowing it outward. See below.

> I then proceeded to torque all the bolts down to Chilton's spec, and
> even managed to break off one of the bolt heads for reasons unknown.
> Someone mentioned that I paid too much attention to the torque
> specs, and should have just bolted them down until it "felt right" -
> comments? I'm not going to tell you what torque setting the manual
> said at first, I want to see what ya'll say.

My suspicion here is, assuming you didn't cross the threads on that
bolt, that Chilton's torque setting is in inch/pounds, but you read
the value as foot/pounds; this would explain how you apparently
managed to torque the head right off the bolt. No flame intended;
sometimes this stuff happens...  :-(

> Does anyone know if there IS a difference in sensors?

There could be. I'd try and buy the same brand of sensor as that of
the gauge you want to connect it with.

> Does anyone recommend what kind/brand of gauge package to buy?

I don't have a favorite but Sun gauges are all over the place. All
you really want is a gauge that's sensitive enough to show when a
reading is going funny on you.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 10:33:25 -0500
From: "David Popadic" <davepop@execpc.com>
Subject: Olds Calendar

So where might one obtain one of these calendars?


- -----Original Message-----
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com <HURSTOLDZ@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, October 21, 1998 10:10 AM
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: ISO Olds Calendar


>The Hurst/Olds Club of America has put out a 1999 calaner with a different
H/O
>each month.
>
>
>
>
>Not sure the price.
>
>Vinny
>68 Hurst/Olds
>62 Olds Starfire
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 08:44:48 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: 403 -> 409ci

>Are all Olds small block of this "open web" design or just the 403?
>

I think all '77 and up are

>I understand there is one or two years that the 403 had a solid block, any
>info?
>
mostly rumors. Anyone actually SEE a smw 403?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 12:12:49 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: MORE WOES (I know, I suck, anyway...)

On Wednesday, October 21, 1998 11:10 AM, Andrew C. Green
[SMTP:acg_o@hotmail.com] wrote: > > My suspicion here is, assuming you didn't
cross the threads on that > bolt, that Chilton's torque setting is in
inch/pounds, but you read > the value as foot/pounds; this would explain how 
you
apparently > managed to torque the head right off the bolt. No flame intended; 
>
sometimes this stuff happens...  :-(

It could also be just coincidental impurities in the bolt.  I was adjusting 
some
of the bolts holding my dorm room loft bed a few weeks ago.  The bolt ran
through two boards with a nut on the end.  I loosened as hard as I could and
started rounding off the nut.  Eventually, I twisted the nut and the bolt end
right off.  Somehow, the nut "fused" to the bolt and I twisted the end of the
bolt right off, trying to *loosen* it.  I figured that I was trying to tighten
it by mistake, but where I did start to round off the nut, it was in the
"loosening" direction.

Go figure...

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 10:17:24 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: MORE WOES (I know, I suck, anyway...)

I know what you mean.  Exactly the same thing happened to me with my 455
install (first engine).  I overtightened one of the pan bolts and busted it.
What I did was is get a bolt retracting tool of some sort from my
girlfriends dad.  It was like a drill bit but with a reverse pattern on it
 I am sure that if you ask for this at any parts store they would have it
for .50 cents or so).  All you do is take a hammer and a nail, punch a
little grove in the busted bolt, put the reverse drill bit in that grove and
drill.  It came out in 1/2 second.  Great little tool.  Should work fine.
IF you can't get at the bolt with the drill, I don't know what to say then
except (SHOULD HAVE PULLED THE MOTOR).  Okay, now that that is out of the
way, the same thing happened to me with the drivers valve cover.  Fired the
motor up for the first time, only to shut it down and find out that the
drivers side is leaking by the #3 plug and burning.  I had no new gasket and
really wanted to get out and WOT the 455 (bad on the fist drive, I know but
oh-well).  So, I pulled the valve cover, took the gasket off and saw what I
did wrong, took the tube of blue silicon and used it as my gasket.  Thought
as long as the leak is not bad till tomorrow, it will work.  Turns out that
this silicon sealed great.  Also, turns out that my 307 had silicon to seal
its valve covers  and never a leak for years.  So, since three days later I
had to change the rockers (never put used rockers in a new engine), both the
valvecovers  had to come off.  Used silicon again, no problem.  My dads
friend just bought a '85 Delta 88 w/307 and 58,000 miles.  He had a valve
cover leak, so I used the same silicon on his, worked great one more time.
That is all.  Igor.

Igor Todorovic, UofC, Calgary, Alberta

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23 posi)
1981 Regency 98 (307/2004r/propane)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)

igor455@home.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 09:29:56 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: MORE WOES (I know, I suck, anyway...)

QUESTION -

HOW ARE YOU SUPPOSED TO INSTALL THE OIL PAN SEALS?
_______

End seals go on motor (front cover and rear main cap grooves) and side
gaskets go on either block or pan.  Sounds like if you're installing the
pan with the motor in the car, you should put all four on the block.

===========

QUESTION -

...I have an idiot light, and that's what I
bought for, but I got to thinking (still haven't installed it) that for the
$12 or whatever it cost me, I sure would like to get one that will work
with...the three pack of gauges that I would (I guess) like to install in
the car.  You know, the kind with Oil Pres./Water Temp/Voltmeter on it.
Does anyone know if there IS a difference in sensors?
________

Yes.  The idiot light sender is just an on-off switch that is normally open
below the set point temp and closes to ground when the temp is exceeded.
Sending units for electric temp gauges (as opposed to mechanical gauges)
use a variable resistance that changes with temperature - won't work with
the idiot light.  In addition, different gauge manufacturers use a
different sender resistance, so you must get the sender that goes with the
gauges you're using. The one at the parts store was for the OEM gauges,
likely would not have worked with an aftermarket set.

============

QUESTION -

Does anyone recommend what kind/brand of gauge package to buy?
________

All of the brand name stuff is equally good, at that point it's just a
matter of taste.  I've used Stewart Warner and AutoMeter.

============

The part about moving it to another car isn't nuts, either - this car is
TRANSPORTATION that is also serving as a nice learning experience...
________

There's absolutely nothing wrong with that concept - I've done this many a
time; swapping not only gauges, but whole engines.  You know you've got a
problem (or an addiction) when you need a database to keep track of which
parts are in which car ("I've got the original trans for my H/O, but it's
currently in the 69 442...")

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
69 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 12:24:46 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: MORE WOES (I know, I suck, anyway...)

Don't get one with
a mechanical temp gauge! It gives you false readings! I always thought
that my car was overheating when (After a lot of headache and money) I
found out that it was just the gauge! So definetly try to find one
that is electric!
____________

While I'm not trying to belittle your experience, don't condem all
mechanical temp gauges based on your experience of one particular gauge
from one particular manufacturer.  That's like saying _all_ US Presidents
are liars based on the example of
one...

Er, well,...maybe that's not a good example...    ;-)

Joe Padavano
padavavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 11:37:47 +0000
From: MB0 <MB0@americancentury.com>
Subject: 69 Tail light lens gasket?

Is there a supplier of Tail light lens gaskets for a 69 Cutlass? I need
the gasket that seals the lens to the housing. Year one shows them as
discontinued.

Thanks
Mike Baugher
mb0@americancentury.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 09:44:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 69 Tail light lens gasket?

Mike,

I'm sure that I still have a set floating around in my parts bin
somewhere. If you are interested, let me know and I can search through
and see if I still have them.

Del




- ---MB0 <MB0@americancentury.com> wrote:
>
> Is there a supplier of Tail light lens gaskets for a 69 Cutlass? I
need
> the gasket that seals the lens to the housing. Year one shows them as
> discontinued.
>
> Thanks
> Mike Baugher
> mb0@americancentury.com
>

==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 13:01:13 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: And So It Begins....Project Rochester.

Non-Olds sources write:

<< I was given a rochester quadrojet model # 7041251 for my 68 pontiac gto 400
6.6 liters. >>

<< need help rebuilding carb >>

[ sigh! ]

Apparenty the URCW is now searchable.

              great

Time to hang the Ol' Disclaimer Shingle!!

Information provided by Karl or found within this site
may be inaccutare [ <-- like so!], and neither Karl, nor the FortuneCity host
should be considered as liable in any manner for any damage, confusion, or
other mayhem attributed to said information.

In other words, Karl may have even less free time now. And would someone send
me the address or info for the Pontoon list so Karl can tell this bloke how to
get the right vacc routing diagram?

Privately?

Thanks.

Olds related;
Periodically during braking the right rear drum will lock fairly easily for
several minutes, then function normally. Car has been pulling slightly left
during braking.

After a while, normal.
Only left rear, only once in a while.
Is the brake shoe adjusted too tightly?
Need to do a brake adjustment to get the other three tighter?

BTW - manual says brake adjustment can be accomplished by appying a ~certain~
amount of brake pressure in reverse.
So, how hard is that?
Floor it in reverse and then lock 'em up to get a small adjustment??

Thanks!

SOM

&KA
ICQ #20414415
http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 13:24:45 EDT
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds Calendar

TRY HERE FOR H/O CALENDER


http://www.hurstolds.com

Vinny

68 Hurst/Olds
62 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 15:08:23 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Olds Quadrajet

This made it only to the digest, not the entire list, but seems to be a
good source for carbs.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Gregg & Mary Ludlam <gmrocket@southport.net>
Subject: [Fwd: Re: Olds Qudrajet]

From: buick455@juno.com (John K Chamberlain)

Hi Gregg: I did some digging today and after looking through hundreds of
carbs, I came across ONE 7027130 in the AC Delco rebuild box. Price is
$275.00 +shipping.  If you'd like it, send me a money order to PO Box 355
Haslett, Mi 48840 and I'll send it right out. As an aside, I found about 4
NOS 7027157s, which of course fit all other 67 Olds 400-425s. If you know
of anyone interested in any of those, they are $375.00. Let me know if
intersted in anything. Thanks! John Chamberlain

On Sat, 17 Oct 1998 13:15:50 -0400 Gregg & Mary Ludlam
<gmrocket@southport.net> writes:
>Hi!
>
>I saw you ad on page 7682 of the October '98 Hemmings Motor News.  I'm
>looking for a Q-Jet for my '67 Olds Toronado, #7027131.  I could also
>use a #7027130 or #7027132 if need-be.  If you have either of these
>beauties, drop me a line with your price.  Thanks in advance!!!
>
>Gregg
>--
>Gregg and Mary Ludlam - Long Beach, NC
>'67 Toronado Deluxe/'72 Cutlass S
>See the Toro at http://www.442.com/ludlam.html
>or at http://www.toronado.org/gregg.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 12:46:13 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: rebuilding a 307...

Well, Darren, I've got some good news for you.  Virtually every aftermarket 
part
for the 350 Olds will work identically with the 307 Olds.  Providing, of 
course,
you don't have those ~dreaded~ <g> roller lifters in there ;)  Pistons should 
be
readily available, that's a very popular engine.  Bearings, and the like should
be even more abundant.  Aftermarket stuff?  You'll have to pretend it's a 350
Olds.  There ~might~ be some extra soft plugs to put in the heads, for an
aftermarket intake.  My 260 had a couple 1/8" ports that would have needed
plugging, if I'd kept it...

If all-out power is your game, though, a 350 Olds, or 403 Olds will bolt right
in, a perfect swap, identical, bolt for bolt.  And if the option's there, I'd
recommend a 69-70 Olds 350.  Stronger, better flow, better compression, better
all around performance.  But the 307's can be made to do wonders, too.  I've 
got
a picture here somewhere of an 83 Cutlass doing a wheelstand during it's mid
10's run...  With a 307.

You can bet he'd done a ~lot~ of work to it, though! :)

> I'm going to rebuild the 307 in my 86 Custom Cruiser this winter.

So, Darren King.  Where are you from?  Respond privately
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com
Just in case you're the same Darren King that I know....  :)

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 14:48:00 -0400
From: Jim Donoghue <jdonogh1@ford.com>
Subject: Importing Vehicles

Has anyone ever purchased a car from someone in Canada to bring to the
U.S.? I might be able to get a parts car from someone in Canada, but I
am not sure what (hassle) would be involved. Anyone ever done this?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 15:41:48 -0400
From: Jim Donoghue <jdonogh1@ford.com>
Subject: Re: MORE WOES (I know, I suck, anyway...)

I noticed that on all of the diesels I have worked on, the valve covers
only have RTV on them. Never had one leak.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 13:00:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: MORE WOES (I know, I suck, anyway...)

I had an 81 Chevy Citation with the 2.8 Liter V-6 in it and both of
those valve covers had the RTV in place of the gasket.




- ---Jim Donoghue <jdonogh1@ford.com> wrote:
>
> I noticed that on all of the diesels I have worked on, the valve
covers
> only have RTV on them. Never had one leak.
>

==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 13:15:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Are these the same???

Okay, I have a 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass "S" that was involved in a
front end collision about a month ago. I am in search of parts. As I
was surfing the great and wonderful web, I ran into a snag on the
grills. Can anyone tell me if the 1969 Olds 442 grills are the same as
the 69 Cutlass S? I was told that they would work, but I am not sure
because www.oldsparts.com makes it look like they wouldn't. If they
will work I will be saving myself 84 Bucks! But, I want to be sure
before I buy them. Can anyone help?

I was also wondering if anyone has a pic of a 69 Olds. I am
particularly looking for a good side shot. I have no idea what the
mirrors are suppose to look like that go on the doors. Are they the
"bullet" style mirrors like you see on the mid to late 80's T/A's and
Monte Carlo's? Are they painted the color of the car or chromed?

Thanks!
Del




==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 15:32:53 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: MORE WOES (I know, I suck, anyway...)

>My guess is that something got overtightened and warped the sealing
>surface between the bolts, bowing it outward. See below.

>My suspicion here is, assuming you didn't cross the threads on that
>bolt, that Chilton's torque setting is in inch/pounds, but you read
>the value as foot/pounds; this would explain how you apparently
>managed to torque the head right off the bolt. No flame intended;
>sometimes this stuff happens...  :-(

I already DID the "convert IN/lbs to FT/lbs" trick on the driver's side
valve covers - broke two bolts off before I figured out what was wrong.
Ended up having to redo everything and trashing that gasket, but then again
that's not the side that leaks...

From Chilton's "Buick/Oldsmobile/Pontiac Full Size 1975-1990 Repair
Manual", Oil Pan Removal and Installation:

	To Install:
		Use gasket sealer and new gaskets (if gaskets are used).  
TORQUE THE PAN
BOLTS TO 14 FT/LBS.

Now, 14 ft/lbs is not really a whole hell of a lot.  AND the bolt that
broke was unique: the third bolt from the front, passenger's side, the one
that holds the bracket with the transmission fluid cooler lines on it.  I
don't know WHY that would make a difference, but it definately broke...

I'm also pretty sure my torque wrench works fine.  It's a pretty good
one...I test it occasionally (like when I'm whaling on something for a
while and I think that it REALLY should be torqued to spec by now) by
lowering the setting and trying again...usually only a couple of ft/lbs
away from spec.  Also tested it on the main cap bolts (which I didn't
remove) - manual said they should be torqued to 80 ft/lbs, set the wrench
to 80, tried it and it worked...


- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 16:24:05 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Are these the same???

> Can anyone tell me if the 1969 Olds 442 grills are the same as
> the 69 Cutlass S? I was told that they would work, but I am not sure
> because www.oldsparts.com makes it look like they wouldn't.

They will physcically fit, since it's the same front end sheetmetal,
however, they do NOT look the same.  The 442 grille was an "eggcrate"
style, while the "S" version was wide spaced vertical slats.  You
shouldn't use the "S" grilles if you want it to look correct, but they
WILL bolt up.
>
> I was also wondering if anyone has a pic of a 69 Olds. I am
> particularly looking for a good side shot. I have no idea what the
> mirrors are suppose to look like that go on the doors.

The mirrors are chrome.  Two styles were offered.  A non remote and a
remote.  Both are oval shaped and chromed.  I have a pic if you need
it.  Reply to hurstolds@xtalwind.net

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 15:38:29 -0500
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Are these the same???

- -----Original Message-----
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
To: Oldsmobile E-mail Ring <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, October 21, 1998 3:21 PM
Subject: Are these the same???


> Can anyone tell me if the 1969 Olds 442 grills are the
same as
>the 69 Cutlass S? I was told that they would work, but I am
not sure
>because www.oldsparts.com makes it look like they wouldn't.
If they
>will work I will be saving myself 84 Bucks! But, I want to
be sure
>before I buy them. Can anyone help?
>I have no idea what the
>mirrors are suppose to look like that go on the doors. Are
they the
>"bullet" style mirrors like you see on the mid to late 80's
T/A's and
>Monte Carlo's? Are they painted the color of the car or
chromed?


 Yes, the 442 grilles will work fine. You can see a picture
of them on a Cutlass S on my WEB Page.  They are different
though and gives the front end a completely different look.
If you want to stay original, don't go this way. They were
on my car when I got it and I prefer them now.

The mirrors aren't the bullet shaped style that I think
started in 1970 (or 69 if you count the H/O special bullet
type mirrors). They are basic flat oval, chromed mirrors. I
don't think there is a good view of mine on the WEB page. My
memory is going :-). You might try blowing up one of the
pics with Paint Shop or similar.
Hope this helps.
===================================================
Mick Gillespie
1969 Cutlass S Conv.
1980 Toronado Brougham
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
mgillespie@sprynet.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 16:39:21 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Are these the same???

Sorry, I misread the original post.  I was thinking you HAD a 442
originally instead of an "S".  Yes, they interchange.  The vertical
slats were original, but the 442 grilles will fit and look killer.
My bad.
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 13:57:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Are these the same???

Thanks to everyone who replied so quickly! Now I just have to figure
out if I want "originality" or if I want to add a customize look to my
car a little bit more.
==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass "S"
1986 Honda Accord DX

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1563
*********************************
