Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1506


oldsmobile-digest     Friday, September 25 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1506



Re: Parting out
Re: Inaccurate Fuel Guage
Re: American Musclecar:Oldsmobile/Hurst 442 on Speedvision
Re: 76 Delta 88 4 door
Re: American Musclecar:Oldsmobile/Hurst 442 on Speedvision
Re: G-body questions
No Contact
Mr. Padavano Re: Nearly constant squeal
Non Olds
Re: The W solution!!!! (was Re: Three Simple Questions)
The elusive sport steering wheel
Rear End Switch
N.J. Show & Go (long)
Re: The W solution!!!! (was Re: Three Simple Questions)
RE: Vin decipher
Re: Three Simple Questions
posi interchange?
Auto Paint:Sherwin or DuPont?
Midnight Blue Olds
Re: Auto Paint:Sherwin or DuPont?
Re: Air conditioning cycles on Defrost
Wix 49 Olds 1/24 race car
Re: Inaccurate Fuel Guage
Re: Air conditioning cycles on Defrost
Re: Auto Paint:Sherwin or DuPont?
Re: Non Olds
Re:  Midnight Blue Olds
Re: Auto Paint:Sherwin or DuPont?
complete new rear brakes 4 sale
Re: Auto Paint:Sherwin or DuPont?
Re: American Musclecar:Oldsmobile/Hurst 442 on Speedvision
Re: heater
Re: Auto Paint:Sherwin or DuPont?
Re: Midnight Blue Olds
Re: Rear End Switch
Re: Midnight Blue Olds
Re: Non Olds
Aurora rentals?
VC Springs
Re: Mr. Pinkstaff's emmissions stance
Re: ADMIN: Responding to UNBOUNCEd Posts
Re: Midnight Blue Olds
Re: Auto Paint:Sherwin or DuPont?
Re: Parting out
RE: Speedbleeder
Parts for sale - MA area
RE: Aurora rentals?
Re:electric choke
Re: The elusive sport steering wheel
Re:  Re: Inaccurate Fuel Guage
Oil Viscosity
Re: Parting out
Re: Speedbleeder
RE: Speedbleeder
Re: Midnight Blue Olds
Re: Auto Paint:Sherwin or DuPont?
Re: Auto Paint:How about Ditzler?
Re: Air conditioning cycles on Defrost
Re: Oil Viscosity

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 20:32:24 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Parting out

Lou Biggs wrote:
>
> Thanks  Matt,
> So far it's all original, lets check further as see what the brains have to
> say. I can leave it for a couple of weeks now that I have another driver.
> I'll check at work where we have some old service manuals left by who knows
> who, We don't use them except for stuff like this, I think their Chiltons.
> Got you on file, I'll let you know. Really appreciate your assistance,
> Lou

ain't no thang.....

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 20:28:49 EDT
From: RPTW32@aol.com
Subject: Re: Inaccurate Fuel Guage

In a message dated 98-09-23 08:06:19 EDT, you write:

<< I found that a test light is useful to trace the circuit as it more or less
 simulates the resistance of the sender.  Assuming your '72 is similar to my
 '69 there are two connectors in the trunk by the latch which go through a
 grommet (brown and tan or pink from memory), one is the license plate light
 and the other the fuel sender.  Separate the fuel sender connector and
 place the test light between the harness connector and ground if all is
 well on the guage side the light should glow and the fuel guage should move
 towards empty the exact amount determined by the characteristics
 (resistance) of the test light.  >>

Hey Lloyd,

wish this thread started about a week ago as I also am having new problem with
fuel gauge pegging onec key turned on.  After taking out gauge and checking
all wiring in harness between trunk & dash found nothing except losing about 3
hrs of weekend time. Tried you tip tonight and wha la  got light and gauge
dropped down to less than 1/2.

Now now that something in tank unit bad as ground checked ok.
Would have saved alot of time and #(*^^&%$*^&_ had I known about this tip.
68-69 dashes no fun to get gauges out of.

Thanks for the tip

Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 17:34:06 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: American Musclecar:Oldsmobile/Hurst 442 on Speedvision

At 05:23 PM 9/24/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Is Speedvision a program on a channel  like ESPN2?

It is a channel.
Nothing but Cars, motorcycles, boats and planes 24 hours a day. :)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 18:45:36 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 76 Delta 88 4 door

Sure, if you will drive it to Calgary, Albera.  Would be nice.  I got my 455
from an old '76 Delta.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Camilli <bcam@vel.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, September 24, 1998 5:02 PM
Subject: 76 Delta 88 4 door


I just found a 1976 Olds Delta 88 4-door for $225.00 in the Ventura
California. The guy said it is a 455ci running, with a straight body and
decent interior, he did say headliner is shot and the vinyl roof is split.
Good front and rear end. I haven't seen the car yet but I am going to run
out there this Saturday to look, owner says it can be driven home. If
anybody is interested you can email me directly at beastmaster@earthlink.net
or at bcam@vel.net or post to the group

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 19:46:10 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: American Musclecar:Oldsmobile/Hurst 442 on Speedvision

Bob,
Mines on digital, extra buck for TCI.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
67 442 "White Ghost"
75 CS The "Deerslayer" copyright 1998, "KA"
- ----------
> From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: American Musclecar:Oldsmobile/Hurst 442 on Speedvision
> Date: Thursday, September 24, 1998 12:34 PM
>
> At 05:23 PM 9/24/98 -0400, you wrote:
> >Is Speedvision a program on a channel  like ESPN2?
>
> It is a channel.
> Nothing but Cars, motorcycles, boats and planes 24 hours a day. :)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 20:53:27 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: G-body questions

<snip bunch o' stuff I dunno about..>

>3.  I'm uncomputerizing a daily driver (87 Salon with 307).  I'm putting on
>a standard q-jet and HEI distirbutor.  On the current distributor, there is
>a 4-wire lead from the distibutor to the mail wiring harness in the engine
>compartment.  Which wire is the TACH lead?

The computerized HEI module sends rpm data pulses to the ECM through pin "B"
on this connector. But there's much more at stake here...

> I need to retain it for the
>computer, so it will still lockup the convertor and make the tach work.

The ECM does use this signal to determine lockup. But it also needs throttle
position (from the TPS sensor in the carb) and manifold vacuum. Your tach
gage does not use this signal. That comes from one of the pins in the
distributor cap.

Pin "A' on that same connector is where the computer controls ignition
timing from. There's no vacuum or centrifugal advance. Without the ECM you
get base timing plus a few degrees advance that's built into the ignition
module. Crappy performance.

Better off with an older (75-79) HEI that has mechanical advance. The tach
will still hook up.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 19:56:00 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: No Contact

To all;
No posts from the "General", movie must still be on!
Anyone not watching the movie "WILL BE SKINNED" Hope you saw the movie,
otherwise nothing!
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
67 442 "White Ghost"
75 CS "The Deerslayer" copyright 1998, "KA"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 20:51:25 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Mr. Padavano Re: Nearly constant squeal

Joe, Thanks, man. You continue to serve as a wealth of information.  As one
who is poverty stricken in this arena, I appreciate your responses. Thanks
also to others who respond to what may appear to be dumb questions...  I can
see that this is the place to be for a rookie looking for info.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 20:05:43 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Non Olds

All:
Would anyone know what the stock jetting is on a 67 Tri Power Goat, one
2GC, 2 G Rochester's. Need jet sizes, middle carb is usually a tad larger.
Trying to help a good friend. Sorry about content.




Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
67 442 "White Ghost"
75 CS "The Deerslayer" copyright 1998, "KA"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 21:11:05 -0400
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Re: The W solution!!!! (was Re: Three Simple Questions)

Correct on the 10 = cold viscosity curve (0 C) and 30 = warm viscosity curve
(100 C).  When I say curve, I'm speaking of the viscosity vs. temperature
relationship over the entire heat range.  All oils are thicker when cold,
and thinner when hot; the multi vis oils just flatten the curve some.  As
you heat it, a 10 will thin faster than a 10W40.

It's intersting to note that is done _not_ by blending 10 with 40- that
would just result in plain ole 25.  Rather, they start with 10 base, and add
polymer thickeners that react with heat.  The additives get thicker with
increasing heat, to counteract the thinning of the oil base.  A 10W40 is the
same oil as 10W30, it just has more of the additive.

Some purists say that the additives are not healthy for an engine- they do
not, in themselves, lubricate like oil.  They are, in a sense, contaminants.
Myself- been using 10W40 for 20 years with no problems.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM <Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, September 24, 1998 3:45 PM
Subject: Re: The W solution!!!! (was Re: Three Simple Questions)


>We were JUST talking about Viscosity in my Oceanography class. My
>instructor informed us that the second number is the cold weight, the
>first number is the warm weight. Viscosity is "the internal resistence
>of a fluid to flow" (friction within a fluid). Of course we were
>relating that to ocean water, but to give us an example he used engine
>oil.
>________
>
>Sorry, Matt, it's the other way around.  the 10 (for example) would be the
>cold weight and the 40 would be the warm weight for 10W40.  The oil is
>designed to act as a thinner weight oil at cold temps and a heavier weight
>oil at warm temps.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 21:05:46 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: The elusive sport steering wheel

Can anyone point me in the right direction or is this an item that just can't
be had?  Need one for a 71 4-4-2.
Scott Parker

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 21:08:34 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Rear End Switch

My 71 4-4-2 has a rear end that's built for off-the-line launch.  I need
something I can cruise the interstates with. Can you guys tell me what's
involved in changing? Do you just change out rear end gearing or replace the
whole unit?  I know, rookie question again, but ......

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 21:16:50 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: N.J. Show & Go (long)

Forwarding this to the list. It s from the N.J. Rally 350 Chapter president
regarding the upcomming Olds event at Englishtown.

Subject: letter from 350 chap


This year is the 14th Annual Oldsmobile "Show & Go" Performance Weekend at
the
Raceway Park race track in Englishtown, NJ and the second attempt at a
northeast regional event. Going to a weekend schedule was a new venture last
year, the result of track popularity and inability to provide the
Oldsmobiles
with enough track time on Sunday alone. This situation also holds true for
all
other car makes' performance days.

Raceway Park has scheduled us for the 1998 Oldsmobile "Show & Go"
Performance
Weekend on Saturday & Sunday, October 10 & 11.

Car Show (trophies for 1st, 2nd, and 3rd place winners in about 15 classes)
will be held on Saturday from 1:00PM to 4:00PM with awards immediately
following. Gates open at 12:00 Noon for the car show. Registration closes at
2:00PM. Rain date is Sunday, when gates open at 9:00AM. Sunday judging would
be from 10:00AM to 1:OOPM with awards immediately following. Registration
would close at 11:OOAM.

Saturday racing (muffled cars only - noise ordinances prevail) will begin at
1:30PM until 9:00PM with eliminations beginning at 6:00PM. We expect no
restrictions on the number of time trials anyone wants to make within the
1:30-6:00PM window. Raceway Park is offering $150/$75 prizes
(winner/runner-up)
plus trophies for both big block and small block categories, plus a $100
prize
for "King of The Hill" big block vs. small block winners' final competition.

AND CONSIDER ALL THIS AS JUST A WARM-UP FOR SUNDAY WHEI\ THE SAME RACEWAY
PARK
PRIZES WILL BE OFFERED AGAIN .... PLUS .... THE DICK MILLER* 1/4 MILE
ELIMINATOR WHICH WILL OFFER SIMILAR PRIZE VALUES IN DICK MILLER RACING, INC.
PARTS AND SERVICES ...AND...

FROM OUR NEWEST SPONSOR. JACK MERKEL** PERFORMANCE ENGINES JPME GIFT
CERTIFICATES FOR HIS PARTS OR SERVICES, ALSO SIMILAR IN VALUE TO THE OTHER
OFFERS!!!

* Dick Miller Racing, Inc. is an Oldsmobile and racing suspension systems
specialist out of Memphis, TN (formerly Michigan) and an active supporter
and
friend of the Rallye 350 Club. Dick can be contacted at:

6856 Keystone Drive
Memphis, TN 38115-5361

E-Mail: dmracing1@aol.com
Phone: 901-794-2834
Fax 901-794-2870

http://www.mspmall.com/dmr

** Jack Merkel, an active member of the Rallye 350 Club does performance
engine refreshing/rebuilding, with which he has 20 years of experience. Jack
can be contacted at:

29 Walnut Avenue Phone: 732-388-7088 Cranford, NJ 07066

Sunday racing will be limited to three (3) time trial runs and the Dick
Miller
Racinq, Inc. sponsored 2nd Annual Oldsmobile 1/4 Mile Eliminator for big and
small block classes which will begin at 1:OOPM. Dick Miller will be putting
up a purse of $600 in parts & services (big & small block: winners $150,
runners-up $100; King of Hill $100) on top of Raceway Park's prizes and
trophies!!! Jack Merkel will be putting up a purse of $400 in parts &
services
(big & small block: winners $100, runners-up $50; King of Hill $100).

Now comes the hard part. Comparing Oldsmobile participation to most other
makes/models pertaining to show cars and racing (at least at Raceway Park),
we
rank rather low. Mustangs. Buicks and Pontiacs have a number of events per
season at Raceway Park with impressive turnouts. But, without an increased
Oldsmobile turnout, our position and how we are viewed does not improve.

Last year we invited all regional Oldsmobile Clubs to participate in the
first
Oldsmobile Performance Weekend at Raceway Park and got a good initial
response, but turnout did not parallel that. The New England Chapter offered
to, and participated in assisting us in cohosting last year's event and gave
us good support and praise for a worthy and enjoyable weekend. They will be
back this year with an even stronger turnout, but we need to hear from your
Club too. Setting up a weekend event of car show and racing is a lot of
work.
We enjoy doing it, but unless the participation increases, we may have to
look
to other opportunities than continuing past this, the 14th year.

Please discuss this letter with your membership and let us know what you
think. We are open to your questions, comments, suggestions, etc. We need
your
support! The promotion of Oldsmobile needs your support! Thanks in advance
for
your understanding and quick response

Sincerely,

,,
Frank LaTorre (President)


For The Oldsmobile Rallye 350 Club Board of Directors

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 20:21:14 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: The W solution!!!! (was Re: Three Simple Questions)

Yeah!
Lou

- ----------
> From: Andersons <robertan@cfw.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: The W solution!!!! (was Re: Three Simple Questions)
> Date: Thursday, September 24, 1998 8:11 PM
>
> Correct on the 10 = cold viscosity curve (0 C) and 30 = warm viscosity
curve
> (100 C).  When I say curve, I'm speaking of the viscosity vs. temperature
> relationship over the entire heat range.  All oils are thicker when cold,
> and thinner when hot; the multi vis oils just flatten the curve some.  As
> you heat it, a 10 will thin faster than a 10W40.
>
> It's intersting to note that is done _not_ by blending 10 with 40- that
> would just result in plain ole 25.  Rather, they start with 10 base, and
add
> polymer thickeners that react with heat.  The additives get thicker with
> increasing heat, to counteract the thinning of the oil base.  A 10W40 is
the
> same oil as 10W30, it just has more of the additive.
>
> Some purists say that the additives are not healthy for an engine- they
do
> not, in themselves, lubricate like oil.  They are, in a sense,
contaminants.
> Myself- been using 10W40 for 20 years with no problems.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM <Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Thursday, September 24, 1998 3:45 PM
> Subject: Re: The W solution!!!! (was Re: Three Simple Questions)
>
>
> >We were JUST talking about Viscosity in my Oceanography class. My
> >instructor informed us that the second number is the cold weight, the
> >first number is the warm weight. Viscosity is "the internal resistence
> >of a fluid to flow" (friction within a fluid). Of course we were
> >relating that to ocean water, but to give us an example he used engine
> >oil.
> >________
> >
> >Sorry, Matt, it's the other way around.  the 10 (for example) would be
the
> >cold weight and the 40 would be the warm weight for 10W40.  The oil is
> >designed to act as a thinner weight oil at cold temps and a heavier
weight
> >oil at warm temps.
> >
> >Joe Padavano
> >padavano.joe@orbital.com
> >
> >66 442
> >68 W-30
> >69 H/O
> >69 442
> >70 W-30
> >
> >
> >

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 19:12:04 -0700
From: "WI02 Rutschmann Brandon M. AO2" <BRutschm@vinson.navy.mil>
Subject: RE: Vin decipher

Go to 442.com and research it for yourself.  It is also a great Olds
Web page.  Brandon 71 Cutlass Supreme.

- -----Original Message-----
From:	JonKrisInc@aol.com [SMTP:JonKrisInc@aol.com]
Sent:	Thursday, September 24, 1998 3:56 AM
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:	Vin decipher

Saw a '71 Delta Conv. for sale in New Jersey that has been garaged for
ten
years. It's in great shape and I am thinking of  buying it. The owner
says it
has a 455. I know the vin would tell me this. If someone could
decipher,  I
would be most appreciative. The # is  3N67U2M533910.
tia
Bruce
75 Delta 88 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 19:33:11 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Three Simple Questions

Regarding Oil Weight:

The numbers are a measure of viscosity (runny-ness).  Lower numbers are
runnier, higher numbers are thicker.

A multi-weight oil like 10W30 has additives so that it doesn't thicken
up as much as straight oil when it's cold.  The "10" means that this oil
is as viscous as a straight 10W oil is when it's at zero degrees (I
can't remember whether it's C of F).  When it's heated up (100 degrees I
think) that same oil would be as viscous as a 30W oil would be at that
temperature.

Straight oil (like 30W) gets pretty thick when it's cold, you don't want
to run it during the winter.  10W gets pretty runny during the summer
and won't protect the engine well.  The 10W30 gives the best of both
worlds, runny like a 10W oil during cold winter startups, but as thick
as a 30W when it's warmed up.

Tom.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 22:46:35 EDT
From: StafRT007@aol.com
Subject: posi interchange?

Will a posi unit out of a 1966 "O" type 12 bolt fit in a 1970 "O" 12 bolt?
Also, the donor rear end (the 66) has 2.78 gears.  Will the posi in that rear
end be compatible with the 3.23 gears in my 1970 rear end?

Thanks for any help.

Ryan

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 09:46:14 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Auto Paint:Sherwin or DuPont?

I will be painting my Olds over winter. Is it better to use Sherwin
Williams or DuPont? Or is there a better paint company?
 Which paint provides the better finish or are they both the same.



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 09:50:57 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Midnight Blue Olds

I have a 72 442 Conv't and will be repainting it over the winter. I was
looking to go with the Midnight Blue color, white W-30 Stripes and a white
top. Is it better to go with the "factory correct" nordic blue color than a
custom color? I like the blue color used on the YEAR ONE Spring '97 catalog
on the 70 Olds 442 Conv't. but I think a darker blue would make it stand
out even more.

Do you agree or disagree?

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 22:45:56 -0400
From: "Jim & Joanne Chermack" <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Auto Paint:Sherwin or DuPont?

Peter

    If those are the two you have to chose from use Dupont. Sherwin Williams
is junk. The best is Sikkens. It's a little more expensive but definitly
worth it.

Jim Chermack


- -----Original Message-----
From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, September 24, 1998 10:47 PM
Subject: Auto Paint:Sherwin or DuPont?


>I will be painting my Olds over winter. Is it better to use Sherwin
>Williams or DuPont? Or is there a better paint company?
> Which paint provides the better finish or are they both the same.
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 19:41:10 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Air conditioning cycles on Defrost

Yes, it's true.  It's for a two-fold reason.  The first is to act as a
dehumidifier (as you guessed), and the second is to run the compressor
during the winter so that it doesn't rust and sieze up.

I put a toggle switch inline with the plug to the compressor on my '79
Cutlass.  The 260 was just too gutless to live with when the A/C was
on.  That way I could flip it on or off whenever I wanted during the
winter.

Come to think of it, the 260 was just too gutless to live with when the
A/C was off too.  That explains why I now have a H/O :-)

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz/hurst.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 22:57:13 EDT
From: BigEJ@aol.com
Subject: Wix 49 Olds 1/24 race car

Hi all:

Something of interest to all (any?) of you interested in the 50's rockets.
Wix filters has come out with a"50th Anniversary" 1949 Olds 88 race car by
Ertil.  Pretty nice, although I would have liked any other colors!

You can get them anywhere Wix filters are sold.  They claim that these are
limited production and Ertil will not be making them for anyone else.   So
hurry and get the car that started the muscle car craze.

Ernie Johnson

50 88
67 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 20:13:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Re: Inaccurate Fuel Guage

>In a message dated 98-09-23 08:06:19 EDT, you write:
>
><< I found that a test light is useful to trace the circuit as it more or less
> simulates the resistance of the sender.  Assuming your '72 is similar to my
> '69 there are two connectors in the trunk by the latch which go through a
> grommet (brown and tan or pink from memory), one is the license plate light
> and the other the fuel sender.  Separate the fuel sender connector and
> place the test light between the harness connector and ground if all is
> well on the guage side the light should glow and the fuel guage should move
> towards empty the exact amount determined by the characteristics
> (resistance) of the test light.  >>
>
>Hey Lloyd,
>
>wish this thread started about a week ago as I also am having new problem with
>fuel gauge pegging onec key turned on.  After taking out gauge and checking
>all wiring in harness between trunk & dash found nothing except losing about 3
>hrs of weekend time. Tried you tip tonight and wha la  got light and gauge
>dropped down to less than 1/2.
>
>Now now that something in tank unit bad as ground checked ok.
>Would have saved alot of time and #(*^^&%$*^&_ had I known about this tip.
>68-69 dashes no fun to get gauges out of.
>
>Thanks for the tip
>
>Rob Thomas
>69 442

Rob,

Glad you found it useful. Unfortuneately, I found dropping the tank to be
about an equal pain to taking the fuel guage out (at least in my car, if it
had A/C it would be worse).

What I found on my sender is that the rubber/plastic cap over the terminal
on the end of the wire had gone hard and was not gripping the stud on the
sender well.  I crimped it with a pair of needle nosed pliers but I think
it would be better to replace it.  I saw the whole wire from the tank to
the connector in the trunk in one of my catalogs for around $15.



Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 20:14:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Re: Air conditioning cycles on Defrost

A lot of this depends on the definition of "Winter" in your area".  The way
I understand the system is that there was an "ambient" switch on the older
systems which prevented the A/C compressor from coming on below a certain
temperature, and this feature is implemented in the newer CCOT systems by
virtue of the way the pressure switch works.

Basically if it is much below +30F outside the compressor is never going to
engage.  If you park the car in a heated space it may come on when  first
started but will cut out when you get outside.

I used to live on the Canadian praries and if you ever tried to turn over a
compressor with 80 weight oil at 40 below I think the belt would snap.

>Just finished my Fall ritual of un-plugging the Air-conditioning pump,
>as I see the lines ar all frosted up, due to the air-conditioning pump
>running when the outside air is 12 degrees (54 F).  I've heard GM cycles
>the air-conditioning on defrost to remove the frost on the wind-shield
>when the heater is on deforst?  While this sounds good, I hardly want my
>air-conditioning cycling all winter!!!!
>
>Is this true (It seems to hold true from what I've seen), and if not why
>does my car do this??
>
>Could someone check their car.. (Mine is a 72 98)
>
>BTW, after driving my 75 Cutlass, stock 350, the 72 98 with 455 SURE has
>POWER!
>
>Thanx
>
>Eric Aksomitis
>http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/eric.shtml



Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 20:28:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Auto Paint:Sherwin or DuPont?

- ---Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net> wrote:
>
> Peter
>
>     If those are the two you have to chose from use Dupont. Sherwin
Williams
> is junk. The best is Sikkens. It's a little more expensive but
definitly
> worth it.
>
> Jim Chermack

- ------I agree.....Sikkens is nice to deal with.....I can also
recommend "Centari"....base coat / clear coat....I used poly on my 69
and my 85...no problems yet and easy to work with....biggest thing is
make good measurements.
                  Sman
==
John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 20:26:10 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Non Olds

Lou Biggs wrote:

> All:
> Would anyone know what the stock jetting is on a 67 Tri Power Goat, one
> 2GC, 2 G Rochester's. Need jet sizes, middle carb is usually a tad larger.
> Trying to help a good friend. Sorry about content.

Lou,
Can't tell you about the Poncho, but if it helps at all,
the 66 4-4-2 Tri-Carb used #68's on the front and
rear carbs, and #63's on the center carb.  These use
the 60 degree, long taper style of 2 barrel jets.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 23:55:31 EDT
From: JJP442@aol.com
Subject: Re:  Midnight Blue Olds

My advice is to choose a color that easy to match. In case you have to touch
up,blend or respray a complete panel.
Just my 2cents
John, Queens N.Y.
JJP442@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 10:55:07 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Auto Paint:Sherwin or DuPont?

Have you had a bad experience with Sherwin Williams? Where can you get
Sikkens at?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Auto Paint:Sherwin or DuPont?
> Date: Thursday, September 24, 1998 9:45 PM
>
> Peter
>
>     If those are the two you have to chose from use Dupont. Sherwin
Williams
> is junk. The best is Sikkens. It's a little more expensive but definitly
> worth it.
>
> Jim Chermack
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Thursday, September 24, 1998 10:47 PM
> Subject: Auto Paint:Sherwin or DuPont?
>
>
> >I will be painting my Olds over winter. Is it better to use Sherwin
> >Williams or DuPont? Or is there a better paint company?
> > Which paint provides the better finish or are they both the same.
> >
> >
> >
> >

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 23:52:18 EDT
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: complete new rear brakes 4 sale

I recently upgraded my rear brakes to 11'' on my 72 cutlass. And i took off
the stock size 9.5 everything is brand new. Wheel
cylinders,drums,springs,pads,adjusters, etc.Backing plates are in great shape.
Make me an offer EM me direct aguy4rumli@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 10:58:56 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Auto Paint:Sherwin or DuPont?

Is Sherwin Williams really that bad? So Sikkens, DuPont or Centari is the
way to go?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Auto Paint:Sherwin or DuPont?
> Date: Thursday, September 24, 1998 10:28 PM
> ------I agree.....Sikkens is nice to deal with.....I can also
> recommend "Centari"....base coat / clear coat....I used poly on my 69
> and my 85...no problems yet and easy to work with....biggest thing is
> make good measurements.
>                   Sman
> ==
> John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
> TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
> 1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
> http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
> Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
> -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts
>
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 21:21:14 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: American Musclecar:Oldsmobile/Hurst 442 on Speedvision

well oce again the powers have erred the show entitled camaro is the 442
episode I will tape the episode when it next airs if the powers would pull
their heads out of their ................well never mind if it were labled
right I would have taped it already........kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, September 24, 1998 12:26 PM
Subject: Re: American Musclecar:Oldsmobile/Hurst 442 on Speedvision


>Kerry Kroger wrote:
>>
>> well the show under question here is called American Musclecar: and has a
>> subject unfortunatly the program tonight is "Camaro" the network is
called
>> Speed Vision it is available on DSS and some cable networks will tape the
>> Oldsmobile show and make copies for whomever wants one just pay for the
tape
>> let me know privately over e-mail and we'll smooth out the
details......kk
>
>I just went to www.speedvision.com and found that this show (in eastern
>time)
>is on tonight at 8pm and 12am.  Just FYI.
>
>Chris

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 00:38:42 -0400
From: Todd Williams <todd@wvadventures.net>
Subject: Re: heater

At 10:30 AM 9/24/98 PDT, you wrote:
>> the hole box is missing for the firewall i guess it was taken off
>> when the other owner put a new motor in but i found a motor looks
>> like a blower motor under the right side finder on the firewall
>
>Just so we're all clear on this (and how much is missing): Is the
>blower motor installed in a housing of some kind, or is it just
>sitting loose behind the wheel well, like somebody unscrewed it
>and just dropped it there?
>
>-- Andy
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>

yes its in place like it should be...just the black box that is missing the
box goes on to the firewall also seals around the end part of the blower
motor where it air comes out into the box and through the fire wall i found
an old box tonight and it does fix BUT theres a big hole in in where
someone had droped in a new motor and busted a hole in it so im still
needing the box

Todd

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 21:32:43 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Auto Paint:Sherwin or DuPont?

dupont makes centauri it is an enamel from them if you can find PPG they are
a good brand too have never used sikkens personally so couldnt tell you
about it.....kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, September 24, 1998 9:00 PM
Subject: Re: Auto Paint:Sherwin or DuPont?


>Is Sherwin Williams really that bad? So Sikkens, DuPont or Centari is the
>way to go?
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>----------
>> From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: Auto Paint:Sherwin or DuPont?
>> Date: Thursday, September 24, 1998 10:28 PM
>> ------I agree.....Sikkens is nice to deal with.....I can also
>> recommend "Centari"....base coat / clear coat....I used poly on my 69
>> and my 85...no problems yet and easy to work with....biggest thing is
>> make good measurements.
>>                   Sman
>> ==
>> John McJunkin  mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
>> TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
>> 1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
>> http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
>> Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
>> -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts
>>
>> _________________________________________________________
>> DO YOU YAHOO!?
>> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 21:33:53 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: Midnight Blue Olds

what was the original color? was it that bad?
- -----Original Message-----
From: JJP442@aol.com <JJP442@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, September 24, 1998 8:57 PM
Subject: Re: Midnight Blue Olds


>My advice is to choose a color that easy to match. In case you have to
touch
>up,blend or respray a complete panel.
>Just my 2cents
>John, Queens N.Y.
>JJP442@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 00:52:32 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Rear End Switch

My 71 4-4-2 has a rear end that's built for off-the-line launch.  I need
something I can cruise the interstates with. Can you guys tell me what's
involved in changing? Do you just change out rear end gearing or replace
the
whole unit?  I know, rookie question again, but ......
______________

The answer is:  It depends.  Normally you could do either (change just the
gears or the whole rearend), but there's one wrinkle.  GM carriers come in
three different flavors, depending on the indended gear ratio.  There's the
2-series, used for gear sets with ratios of around 2.5-ish and lower
numerically.  There's the 3-series, used with ratios of around 2.78 to
3.23, and there's the 4-series, for gears of 3.42 and up.  As the ratio
gets higher numerically, the pinion gear must get smaller (since the ring
gear diameter is relatively fixed).  This smaller gear requires the ring
gear to be closer to the centerline of the pinion, so the higher-series
carriers have the ring gear mounting surface offset towards the center.
This means that if you hae a 4-series carrier, for example, you couldn't
change to a ratio lower that 3.42:1 without also changing the carrier to a
3-series.  Note that it _is_ possible to go the other way, however.  If you
have a 3-series carrier, you can use a spacer behind the ring gear to get
it to properly mesh with the pinion from a 4-series.  There are even gear
sets available which have an extra-thick ring gear, effectively
incorporating the spacer into the gear.  If your steep gears are really
mounted in a 3-series carrier with a spacer, you can remove the spacer and
install the desired lower gear ratio.

It may be easier and cheaper to locat a complete axle housing with the
desired ratio for a complete swap.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 00:56:43 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Midnight Blue Olds

Is it better to go with the "factory correct" nordic blue color than a
custom color?
_________

It's your car, paint it any color you want.  If it were me, I'd be leaning
towards an original color only if the car was a nice, original, numbers
matching specimen or extremely rare, like a H/O.  If you've modified the
car, definitely pick whatever color you want.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 01:02:14 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Non Olds

Lou Biggs wrote:

> All:
> Would anyone know what the stock jetting is on a 67 Tri Power Goat, one
> 2GC, 2 G Rochester's. Need jet sizes, middle carb is usually a tad
larger.
> Trying to help a good friend. Sorry about content.
_____________

Lou,

This must be a trick question!  :-0

Pontiac, along with Olds, stopped selling multiple carbs after the 1966
model year.  This was a GM corporate edict, with only the Corvette allowed
to continue.  That's why the L-69 tri-carb setup was a one-year only
factory option on the 1966 442s (though you could also buy the package over
the counter and some 67s were converted by the dealers).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 22:19:23 -0700
From: "Greg Yonge" <gsyonge@pe.net>
Subject: Aurora rentals?

Hi all,

The other day I happened to spot a nice looking dark green Aurora sitting on
the used car lot at a local dealership.  When I inquired about the car, the
salesman told me that it used to be a rental car.  Does anyone know what car
rental companies rent Auroras?  The next time I get a rental car, I would
much rather have an Aurora (or any Olds for that matter).  I can't seem to
find any rental companies here in So CA that even know what an Aurora is.  I
tried asking my local Olds dealer, but received the same blank stare.  (Go
figure... it's a combination Olds and C@dillac dealer.  They're much more
concerned with $elling C@ddys apparently....)

TIA,

Greg Yonge - OCA 029415
1969 Cutlass S Covt.
1965 442 Covt.
1992 Achieva SC

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 23:11:25 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: VC Springs

While Cutlass springs would fit a VC, the load capacity would be different.
 I'd think that a spring supplier would be able to tell you the original
load ratio for the springs for your wagon.  Although that gets pricey to
buy new,  you might get interchange info that would work.


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible,  '72
Vista Cruiser, '80 GMC

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 02:26:41 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Mr. Pinkstaff's emmissions stance

In a message dated 98-09-24 10:51:11 EDT, you write:

<< Hear, hear, well spoken Bruce!
 Dual Cat's will NOT help me financially, but I will be able (provided a good
 Cat selection) to state that my vehicle emits less pollutants than the
typical
 taxi hereabouts! >>

     Karl, another question comes to mind. Aren't catalytic convertors
supposed to have fresh air injected into them? I know the newer (my 86 does)
cats do. Also, heat WOULD be a concern, if they need to heat up to be
effective. I think that would be easy to overcome, just move them closer to
the engine! I read a bit in a mid 70's Chilton's that stated the cat's at that
time did very little good, so little that you could remove them and not tell
the difference! (how that could be true beats me though) So if non-injected
convertors don't work, what would be the point? Just curious, as always,


Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 01:08:57 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Responding to UNBOUNCEd Posts

> Just wanted to mention that as "Sparky" G. Kalkhoff was recently on the list,
> I was puzzled by the recent Unbounce from him.

I've replied to a few of these, and at times have CC'd both to the asking party
~and~ to the list, so all can see the advice I'm sending, and add to/correct if
necessary, then I'd foreward ~that~ to the asking party again.  Haven't often
done that, but on some occasions where I wasn't 100% certain, I'd leave it open
for other brainstorming.

I agree with Greg, though, make sure when replying that you do include the
direct address, instead of the list.  Whether you CC it to the list is up to
individual discretion, as a rule of thumb.

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 06:33:28 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Midnight Blue Olds

It's all a matter of personal taste of course but I can tell you that the
Midnight Blue offered in '70 is a very handsome color. I like it better
than the dark blue offered in '71 that I've seen on a few cars. Then there
is the ever-popular Viking Blue, a medium metallic blue that is bright and
very popular. Lots of folks seem to prefer that.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 07:11:40 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Auto Paint:Sherwin or DuPont?

>I will be painting my Olds over winter. Is it better to use Sherwin
>Williams or DuPont? Or is there a better paint company?
> Which paint provides the better finish or are they both the same.


Sherwin Willams makes good house paint, but lousy car paint. Poor coverage,
hard to apply without streaks. Poor adhesion too. DuPont still makes
excellent laquer and acrylic enamel.

But for basecoat/clearcoat there's better choices. Sikkens (expensive) which
my local body shop uses exclusively, and R-M Diamont which I used this
Summer on my car and highly recommend. PPG I hear is OK too, but have no
personal experience with.

Find a supplier who carries more than one brand and pick his brain. There's
a world of choices you have to make.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 07:33:07 EDT
From: DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Parting out

no the grills on a Supreme and an "S" are not the same.
Jeffrey Fieldsend
Board of Director OCC- Oldsmobile Cutlass Coupes 73-77
http://members.aol.com/cutlascoup/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 06:36:42 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: Speedbleeder

Do they sell these in stores?
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
21 Wins 13 Losses 1Tie
======================


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Mike Rothe. [SMTP:hurstolds@xtalwind.net]
	Sent:	Thursday, September 24, 1998 3:18 PM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	Re: Speedbleeder

	> << http://www.speedbleeder.com >>

	Got two sets of them last year.  Got one set on my 71 442, and one
on
	the GMC truck.  Work GREAT!!!!  One person is all you need to
manually
	bleed the brakes.  I tried em, and I love em.  Not real sure how
MANY
	times you can open/close them before the thread sealer that's on
them
	starts leaking, but hopefully you won't be doing it that much.

	Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 19:55:28 -0400
From: Andy Mikesell <andymikesell@mediaone.net>
Subject: Parts for sale - MA area

I saw these ads in a local Want Advertiser publication here in
Massachusetts.  Please contact the seller directly.
- ---------------------------
OLDS 455 COMPL
w/Edelbrock intake. Turbo tranny compl, ready to roll. $650; 350 Eng
compl. $150; Pr of used frt fenders for '70-'72 Cutlas. $250. Call aft
5PM. (Norton) 508 285 9983

OLDS TORONADO FWD TRANS
w/77K mi. Does not have OD. Works fine. $50. Call Joe. (Malden) 781 322
3130

74 OLDS 350 ROCKET ENG
40K mi. $350/bo. Call Corey. (Lynn) 781 592 3481

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 08:16:32 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Aurora rentals?

I would think that it's highly possible that that very local dealership was
using the Aurora as a rental?

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom

gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>
  
"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass Supreme Brougham


<>-----Original Message-----
<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Greg Yonge
<>Sent: Friday, September 25, 1998 1:19 AM
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<>Subject: Aurora rentals?
<>
<>
<>Hi all,
<>
<>The other day I happened to spot a nice looking dark green Aurora
<>sitting on
<>the used car lot at a local dealership.  When I inquired about
<>the car, the
<>salesman told me that it used to be a rental car.  Does anyone
<>know what car
<>rental companies rent Auroras?  The next time I get a rental car, I would
<>much rather have an Aurora (or any Olds for that matter).  I can't seem to
<>find any rental companies here in So CA that even know what an
<>Aurora is.  I
<>tried asking my local Olds dealer, but received the same blank stare.  (Go
<>figure... it's a combination Olds and C@dillac dealer.  They're much more
<>concerned with $elling C@ddys apparently....)
<>
<>TIA,
<>
<>Greg Yonge - OCA 029415
<>1969 Cutlass S Covt.
<>1965 442 Covt.
<>1992 Achieva SC
<>
<>
<>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 08:39:22 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Re:electric choke

Am Running a holley 0-3310-2 carb with an electric choke
on a torker 455 manifold (the one with the big toilet).
Turned the choke counter clockwise but the idle is still
pretty fast at warm up, and idea how to slow it down?

Thanks, Ron Haun
71 442 W30 Convert.
Orchard Park, NY

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 08:41:20 EDT
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: The elusive sport steering wheel

Scott, have one off of a 70 442 complete should be the same as a 71 let me
know if you are interested. Hey list what is a fair price for these? let me
know please. Thanks Chris

Chris Sommerville
69 442 SC
70 442HC
70 W31
AND LOTS OF PARTS FOR SALE!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 08:48:58 EDT
From: RPTW32@aol.com
Subject: Re:  Re: Inaccurate Fuel Guage

Llyod,

Thanks again will certainly take under advisement.

Rgds,
Rob

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 07:52:20 -0500
From: wayne_drusch@co.harris.tx.us
Subject: Oil Viscosity

Oil specifications are established by the American Petroleum Institute
working in conjunction with auto manufacturers. 10w-30 oil has the flow
characteristics of a 10 weight oil for winter use ( the W stands for
winter) and the protection of 30 weight oil once warmed up. Each
manufacturer specifies a recommended weight of oil for the temperature
ranges where the car will be operated. 10w30 is the best all round for
most modern engines in the U.S.A.  5w30 would be good for the northern
states during cold weather for its easier starting characteristics.
10w40 is out of favor with GM as testing has shown it can leave some
undesirable deposits from its additive package in the engine and, I
believe if I remember right, cause a stuck ring problem. 20w50 works
well for engines with larger clearances-- some of our well seasoned
350's and 455's-- but not in cold climates in a daily driver as it would
make starting harder.

E. Wayne Drusch
71 Cutlass Conv

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 09:21:15 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Parting out

DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com wrote:
>
> no the grills on a Supreme and an "S" are not the same.
> Jeffrey Fieldsend
> Board of Director OCC- Oldsmobile Cutlass Coupes 73-77
> http://members.aol.com/cutlascoup/index.html

That's what I thought, thanx Jeff!!!

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 08:16:41 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: Speedbleeder

Pep boys... Most speed shops.
>Brett

- -----Original Message-----
From: Johnson, Sam <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, September 25, 1998 6:31 AM
Subject: RE: Speedbleeder


>Do they sell these in stores?
>======================
>Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>>1971 Cutlass S 455
>>Westside! Chitown IL
>21 Wins 13 Losses 1Tie
>======================
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Rothe. [SMTP:hurstolds@xtalwind.net]
> Sent: Thursday, September 24, 1998 3:18 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Speedbleeder
>
> > << http://www.speedbleeder.com >>
>
> Got two sets of them last year.  Got one set on my 71 442, and one
>on
> the GMC truck.  Work GREAT!!!!  One person is all you need to
>manually
> bleed the brakes.  I tried em, and I love em.  Not real sure how
>MANY
> times you can open/close them before the thread sealer that's on
>them
> starts leaking, but hopefully you won't be doing it that much.
>
> Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 08:28:15 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: RE: Speedbleeder

What size do I get for my 71 Cutlass?

Drums in the Back and Disk in the front.
======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
21 Wins 13 Losses 1Tie
======================


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Brett Wilson [SMTP:bwilson@dmotorworks.com]
	Sent:	Friday, September 25, 1998 8:17 AM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	Re: Speedbleeder

	Pep boys... Most speed shops.
	>Brett

	-----Original Message-----
	From: Johnson, Sam <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
	To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
	Date: Friday, September 25, 1998 6:31 AM
	Subject: RE: Speedbleeder


	>Do they sell these in stores?
	>======================
	>Sam E. Johnson, JR.
	>>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
	>>1971 Cutlass S 455
	>>Westside! Chitown IL
	>21 Wins 13 Losses 1Tie
	>======================
	>
	>
	> -----Original Message-----
	> From: Mike Rothe. [SMTP:hurstolds@xtalwind.net]
	> Sent: Thursday, September 24, 1998 3:18 PM
	> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	> Subject: Re: Speedbleeder
	>
	> > << http://www.speedbleeder.com >>
	>
	> Got two sets of them last year.  Got one set on my 71 442, and one
	>on
	> the GMC truck.  Work GREAT!!!!  One person is all you need to
	>manually
	> bleed the brakes.  I tried em, and I love em.  Not real sure how
	>MANY
	> times you can open/close them before the thread sealer that's on
	>them
	> starts leaking, but hopefully you won't be doing it that much.
	>
	> Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 20:34:22 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Midnight Blue Olds

It was a saddle gold/brown color. I always thought that a dark blue Olds
looks the best.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Midnight Blue Olds
> Date: Thursday, September 24, 1998 11:33 PM
>
> what was the original color? was it that bad?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: JJP442@aol.com <JJP442@aol.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Thursday, September 24, 1998 8:57 PM
> Subject: Re: Midnight Blue Olds
>
>
> >My advice is to choose a color that easy to match. In case you have to
> touch
> >up,blend or respray a complete panel.
> >Just my 2cents
> >John, Queens N.Y.
> >JJP442@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 20:39:15 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Auto Paint:Sherwin or DuPont?

I heard that 2-3 coats of a basecoat in sufficient and then 5-6 coats of
clear is better than 3-4 coats of clear. This is due to the fact that the
clear will make the paint shine more and is more durable. Is this correct?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Dave Cullen <david.cullen@snet.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Auto Paint:Sherwin or DuPont?
> Date: Friday, September 25, 1998 6:11 AM
>
> >I will be painting my Olds over winter. Is it better to use Sherwin
> >Williams or DuPont? Or is there a better paint company?
> > Which paint provides the better finish or are they both the same.
>
>
> Sherwin Willams makes good house paint, but lousy car paint. Poor
coverage,
> hard to apply without streaks. Poor adhesion too. DuPont still makes
> excellent laquer and acrylic enamel.
>
> But for basecoat/clearcoat there's better choices. Sikkens (expensive)
which
> my local body shop uses exclusively, and R-M Diamont which I used this
> Summer on my car and highly recommend. PPG I hear is OK too, but have no
> personal experience with.
>
> Find a supplier who carries more than one brand and pick his brain.
There's
> a world of choices you have to make.
>
> drc
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 09:43:18 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Auto Paint:How about Ditzler?

I don't think I've seen Ditzler mentioned (maybe that is a brand name of one
of the companies whose paint has been mentioned???). I see that sign on a lot
of the auto shops around here (TN). I used their 2-part acrylic on a
motorcycle a few years back and it worked well for this beginner.

Also, a BIL of myin told me that for non-metallic colors, a one-coat system
works well. I didn't quiz him on the meaning, but maybe that's a linear poly??
anyone familiar with the term as it applies to automotible painting?

cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 07:46:08 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Air conditioning cycles on Defrost

Lloyd Ferguson wrote:

> Basically if it is much below +30F outside the compressor is never going to
> engage.  If you park the car in a heated space it may come on when  first
> started but will cut out when you get outside.

This sounds good, as that means it would only cut in after I wash it and
it sits in the car wash for a while, or when I heated up the Garage.

> I used to live on the Canadian praries and if you ever tried to turn over a
> compressor with 80 weight oil at 40 below I think the belt would snap.

Or be really hard on the clutch and wreck my precious Summer-Time Cold,
this is my worry, for this this reason I think I'll probably 0nly plug
the pump back in monthly or so when the car is in a heated space.

Thanx muchly for the info

Eric
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/eric.shtml
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/biggreen.shtml  <-- Car in Question

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 06:47:04 -0700
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Viscosity

wayne_drusch@co.harris.tx.us wrote:
>
> believe if I remember right, cause a stuck ring problem. 20w50 works
> well for engines with larger clearances-- some of our well seasoned
> 350's and 455's-- but not in cold climates in a daily driver as it would
> make starting harder.

What about just plain 30 weight?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1506
*********************************
