Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1503


oldsmobile-digest    Wednesday, September 23 1998    Volume 01 : Number 1503



American Musclecar:Oldsmobile/Hurst 442 on Speedvision
any shows near CT
Re: White smoke (and tranny clicking noise)
Vista Cruiser Duals
He*p or H*lp
EPA: Response to the 1965 dual cats
Re: Book
RE: Book
Re: www.epa.gov - emmissions
Re: www.epa.gov - emmissions
Dual exhaust 71 Vista
Re: www.epa.gov - emmissions
Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines
Re: Web VIN Decoder
test dont read
1974 Delta 88 Royale Convertible
Shift points and 60 footers
RE: Steering Gear Interchangeability
Installing Drip Moldings!
Computer Chips
Re: Shift Points and Launch RPM
test
Re: Cross Border Shipping Warning
Cleaning my garage - parts for sale
RE: any shows near CT
Re: Installing Drip Moldings!
New toy/East Coast Power Tour
Power Tour Web Page
Re: He*p or H*lp
RE: Installing Drip Moldings!
Re: EPA: Response to the 1965 dual cats
Re: White smoke
UNBOUNCE: ISO '74 Delta Convert Parts
Re: American Musclecar:Oldsmobile/Hurst 442 on Speedvision
ADMIN: Responding to UNBOUNCEd Posts
Re: He*p or H*lp
smaller brake power booster
5A heads
Swapping Power Windows in a 66 Big Car (Long)
Re: Shift Points and Launch RPM
Thank you all
Re: 5A heads
Fwd: Back to original -- engine compartment
Fwd: High Rev's and W's
Fwd: Nearly constant squeal
Re: any shows near CT
Re: License plate choice
Re: He*p or H*lp
Re: Parts for sale

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 10:09:07 -0400
From: Mark Hillman <mhillman@ebtech.net>
Subject: American Musclecar:Oldsmobile/Hurst 442 on Speedvision


Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"


I don't know if this is old news but...

Fri Sep 25 at 10:30am (Eastern), probably other times, "American
Musclecar:Oldsmobile/Hurst 442" on Speedvision.

Mark Hillman
'61 Dynamic 88

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 10:32:28 EDT
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: any shows near CT

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From: RICH6986@aol.com
Return-path: <RICH6986@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: any shows near CT
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 09:28:56 EDT
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

Just wondering if anybody knows of any shows coming near the CT area any soon
TIA   Rich
82,85 cutlass supreme

- --part0_906561148_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 09:41:05 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: White smoke (and tranny clicking noise)

Joe,
Byproduct of normal combustion is water ( along with a lot more) you'll
notice a lot when you first start it. After a 20 min. highway drive pipe
should be nice and dry. One of the reasons short trips are so hard on the
engine oil and exhaust system. Another byproduct is H2SO4.acid!
Lou

- ----------
> From: JCRASH7@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: White smoke (and tranny clicking noise)
> Date: Tuesday, September 22, 1998 6:29 PM
>
>
> > If there is condensation then it's water.
>
> Ok then, what does that mean?  I also noticed small little drops of
liquid
> dripping out of my exhaust pipe.
>
> Joe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 07:44:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: Vista Cruiser Duals

     For dual exhaust on a Vista Cruiser, try a similar year El Camino
listing for the tailpipes! They exit behind each rear wheel.

==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our cars, trucks and a whole lot more at
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 10:11:33 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: He*p or H*lp

Hello, is anyone out there this time of the morning? It's 10:00 am St. Lou
time. At 7:45 this morning I hit a deer with the 75 Cut Sup. Lost the right
side grille, and front bumper. Some sheet metal also, but I can fix that,
need the grille, right side, opposite the driver, can send bumper to shop
and hope they don't screw it up too bad. Would anyone know who might have a
grille (show condition) for this thing), would like to get the car in the
body shop as soon as possible. USA doesn't carry anything that new. ANY
help worth be greatly appreciated, sooner the better. Got the mirrors
painted and was ready to cover it and store by this week end. Going out
today and buying an S-10 to drive to work. (Too soon old and too late
smart). Sorry, I'm really pi**ed, may but the truck and go out and hang one
on. Thanks,
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
67 442 all orig.
75 CS same way

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 11:12:04 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: EPA: Response to the 1965 dual cats

Well, I was searching the right areas, but did not find brcause of the oblique
language used in the documents. This kind responce came by way of a comment I
made at the bottom of a form I sent via Email asking for an emissions fact
sheet. And was in fact not solicited by me, my comment was actually forwarded
to the office of this person! They must have time on their hands!

Anyway:

<< .....	As written Memorandum 1A is directed only to dealers and 
vehicle and
engine manufacturers.  However, in 1977 and again in 1990, section 203(a)(3)
was amended and the tampering prohibition now extends to "any person."
Consequently, the policy enunciated in Memorandum 1A has been extended to
apply to any person. >>

[[Memorandum 1A is, of course, BOOOOORING!!]]

<< 	Federal law prohibits any person from removing or rendering 
inoperative
any device or element of design installed on or in any motor vehicle or motor
vehicle engine originally certified to meet federal emissions standards.
Exhaust back pressure and the exhaust system configuration are elements of
design of the emission control systems as certified by the vehicle
manufacturers.  Therefore, any changes to those systems could be considered
violations of federal law.

[[Yay!]]

             Since installing catalytic converters on vehicles which did not
originally have any would reasonably be expected to decrease emissions, we
would not generally consider it a violation to install one or two or more
converters.

[[Generally????]]

  	On the other hand, back pressure can affect emissions, and a 
decrease in
back pressure would normally be expected to increase tail-pipe emissions,
particularly oxides of nitrogen and hydrocarbons.  The addition of a second
catalytic converter as part of a dual exhaust system would not necessarily
reduce the exhaust emissions output of a vehicle which originally came with
one.  In fact, reducing the flow to each converter of a dual system could
actually extend the time necessary for the converter to light-off (warm up and
start operating) thereby causing much higher cold start emissions.  Cold start
operation is the period during operation when the highest emissions normally
occur.

[[So going 0 to 2 is OK, but 1 to 2 bad?]]

 	As mentioned before, federal law prohibits any person from removing or
rendering inoperative any device or element of design installed on or in any
motor vehicle or motor vehicle engine originally certified to meet federal
emissions standards and exhaust back pressure and the exhaust system
configuration are elements of design of the emission control systems as
certified by the vehicle manufacturers.  Therefore, any changes to those
systems could be considered violations of federal law.

[[Uh, OK]]

 I hope this answers your questions, if not let me know. >>

And that's the way it is.
Nothing like the facts.
We now return you to your regularly malfunctioning carburetors.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 11:12:02 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Book

In a message dated 98-09-23 08:45:50 EDT, you write:

<< SETTING THE PACE, a must for all Oldsmobile nuts. The price is $40.00 (a
steal)  >>

Mine was $32 at the Oldsmobile Homecoming, autographed live by Ms. Earley.

In the swap meet the next day I saw copies of the book for $10 - $15.

Also James Walkinshaw was there with his Curved Dash, so I had the sentimental
value of my copy added to.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 09:33:57 -0600
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: RE: Book

> Anyone interested in purchasing the book by Helen Early
> (first lady of Oldsmobile) 497 page hard cover
> SETTING THE PACE, a must for all Oldsmobile nuts.
> The price is $40.00 (a steal)
> Contact Al & Bill Sandy, 92 Geneva St. Westmont, N.J. 08108
> Phone after 3PM: 609-858-0248, Fax: 609-869-3187,
> they accept Visa & Master card. This the book I have with all
> the production figures, covers first 100YRS of Oldsmobile.
> Got mine free attending the 100TH aniv. of Olds in Lansing.

Can also get this book at http://www.amazon.com for $32.95 + shipping...
which would total about $37.95... which is an even BETTER steal! ;)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 08:48:21 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: www.epa.gov - emmissions

Joe,


>I don't disagree with the gross, smoking cars, but this is pretty
easily
>picked up in a safety inspection.

Not in Va. It's not part of the safety inspection. (used to have Va
inspector's license)


>  I just find it hard to believe that
>there are enough 30 year old cars on the road in VA to contribute
>measureably to local emissions.


Depends on where you live. If you came over to my house I could take you
on a let's say, 1 hour walk around the immediate part of the
neighborhood, and show you at least 40 pre-75 cars. Not show cars
either. I can think of 12 on my street alone.

I do see your point, and I do think it would be a waste of time to
concentrate heavily on vehicles that make up that small a portion of the
whole. They aren't asking the older cars to pass some horrible, new
restrictive test though. It's the same one that they used to have to
pass. The standards for '68-'69 are 8 and 800 (CO2% and HC parts per
million), and 6 and 600 for '70-'74 cars. Mr. Hankey's engine is on its
way out. Oil drips past the valve stems, and seeps past the rings. He is
currently a very poor representation of the breed. However...

He passed with something like 1.03 and 93. Ray Moriarty's '79 Bronco
(most barely functioning engine I have EVER seen, it blew OIL, not smoke
until warmed up!!) passed it's emissions BEFORE we installed the new
engine. The point I am making is that just because your car is old
doesn't mean that you shouldn't have to keep it running within a certain
set of standards like everyone else has to. As long as they don't try to
tighten standards for old cars I think that it is a good idea.

The new system will also cut down on the number of cars that are
illegally passed. In the past it was easy to find an unscrupulous
inspector who would take the VIN from your POS '74 GM, punch it into the
computer, and run the test on a '92 Honda. With the new system, you
would have to at least run another non-computer controlled vehicle in
it's place (the machine can tell it's a '92ish Honda by the ignition and
computer). The new system links the machine to both a DMV computer and a
DEQ computer. When my friend's shop fired up their new ASM2 compliant
machine, they received a call from DEQ in less than 30 minutes to let
them know that they were aware that the machine had been activated. I
know it sounds a bit big brotherish, but I see at least a couple dozen
smoke blowing cars each week and it needs to stop.

Just my .02,


Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 08:51:01 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: www.epa.gov - emmissions

Joe,


>I don't disagree with the gross, smoking cars, but this is pretty
easily
>picked up in a safety inspection.

Not in Va. It's not part of the safety inspection. (used to have Va
inspector's license)


>  I just find it hard to believe that
>there are enough 30 year old cars on the road in VA to contribute
>measureably to local emissions.


Depends on where you live. If you came over to my house I could take you
on a let's say, 1 hour walk around the immediate part of the
neighborhood, and show you at least 40 pre-75 cars. Not show cars
either. I can think of 12 on my street alone.

I do see your point, and I do think it would be a waste of time to
concentrate heavily on vehicles that make up that small a portion of the
whole. They aren't asking the older cars to pass some horrible, new
restrictive test though. It's the same one that they used to have to
pass. The standards for '68-'69 are 8 and 800 (CO2% and HC parts per
million), and 6 and 600 for '70-'74 cars. Mr. Hankey's engine is on its
way out. Oil drips past the valve stems, and seeps past the rings. He is
currently a very poor representation of the breed. However...

He passed with something like 1.03 and 93. Ray Moriarty's '79 Bronco
(most barely functioning engine I have EVER seen, it blew OIL, not smoke
until warmed up!!) passed it's emissions BEFORE we installed the new
engine. The point I am making is that just because your car is old
doesn't mean that you shouldn't have to keep it running within a certain
set of standards like everyone else has to. As long as they don't try to
tighten standards for old cars I think that it is a good idea.

The new system will also cut down on the number of cars that are
illegally passed. In the past it was easy to find an unscrupulous
inspector who would take the VIN from your POS '74 GM, punch it into the
computer, and run the test on a '92 Honda. With the new system, you
would have to at least run another non-computer controlled vehicle in
it's place (the machine can tell it's a '92ish Honda by the ignition and
computer). The new system links the machine to both a DMV computer and a
DEQ computer. When my friend's shop fired up their new ASM2 compliant
machine, they received a call from DEQ in less than 30 minutes to let
them know that they were aware that the machine had been activated. I
know it sounds a bit big brotherish, but I see at least a couple dozen
smoke blowing cars each week and it needs to stop.

Just my .02,


Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 10:51:49 -0500
From: wayne_drusch@co.harris.tx.us
Subject: Dual exhaust 71 Vista

>Does anybody know if dual exhaust tailpipes
>for a cutlass (68-72) will fit a Vista Cruiser
>>from the same year???
>>
>Jamie
>>'71 Vista

You would need different tail pipes to clear the storage well and spare
tire well. Probably need to have them custom made at a muffler shop with
a pipe bender to clear everything and still come out the back. Vistas
also have a longer wheel base than the Cutlass that has to also be
considered.

E. Wayne Drusch
71 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 08:52:08 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: www.epa.gov - emmissions

Joe,


>I don't disagree with the gross, smoking cars, but this is pretty
easily
>picked up in a safety inspection.

Not in Va. It's not part of the safety inspection. (used to have Va
inspector's license)


>  I just find it hard to believe that
>there are enough 30 year old cars on the road in VA to contribute
>measureably to local emissions.


Depends on where you live. If you came over to my house I could take you
on a let's say, 1 hour walk around the immediate part of the
neighborhood, and show you at least 40 pre-75 cars. Not show cars
either. I can think of 12 on my street alone.

I do see your point, and I do think it would be a waste of time to
concentrate heavily on vehicles that make up that small a portion of the
whole. They aren't asking the older cars to pass some horrible, new
restrictive test though. It's the same one that they used to have to
pass. The standards for '68-'69 are 8 and 800 (CO2% and HC parts per
million), and 6 and 600 for '70-'74 cars. Mr. Hankey's engine is on its
way out. Oil drips past the valve stems, and seeps past the rings. He is
currently a very poor representation of the breed. However...

He passed with something like 1.03 and 93. Ray Moriarty's '79 Bronco
(most barely functioning engine I have EVER seen, it blew OIL, not smoke
until warmed up!!) passed it's emissions BEFORE we installed the new
engine. The point I am making is that just because your car is old
doesn't mean that you shouldn't have to keep it running within a certain
set of standards like everyone else has to. As long as they don't try to
tighten standards for old cars I think that it is a good idea.

The new system will also cut down on the number of cars that are
illegally passed. In the past it was easy to find an unscrupulous
inspector who would take the VIN from your POS '74 GM, punch it into the
computer, and run the test on a '92 Honda. With the new system, you
would have to at least run another non-computer controlled vehicle in
it's place (the machine can tell it's a '92ish Honda by the ignition and
computer). The new system links the machine to both a DMV computer and a
DEQ computer. When my friend's shop fired up their new ASM2 compliant
machine, they received a call from DEQ in less than 30 minutes to let
them know that they were aware that the machine had been activated. I
know it sounds a bit big brotherish, but I see at least a couple dozen
smoke blowing cars each week and it needs to stop.

Just my .02,


Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 11:49:22 EDT
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Question re '66-7 400 and 425 engines

Great. I'll bring it to Woodley. Either way-tradesies or $50.
Peter

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 12:01:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: dsenko@UU.NET (Drew Senko)
Subject: Re: Web VIN Decoder

> List, if you would, please goto
> and see if this
> decoder works for your Olds.  Only VIN's from 1981 to 1986 please.
>
> If there are any errors, please e-mail me privately.  Thanks.
>
> Jason Adcock


This is very coincidental because I was updating my VIN decoder
recently giving it a "fresher" look.  I was about to publish the new
look of the pages and notify the list.  As older list members can
tell you, I've had an Olds VIN Decoder on the web since 1996.  This
decoder covers the years 1963-1975 authoritatively, with the newer
years (1976-present) having data as it becomes available to me.  My
decoder covers the 80's although it has some holes.

This is also the VIN Decoder mentioned in the Olds FAQ, although the
URL in the FAQ is a bit out of date.  The Olds VIN Decoder is at:

http://members.aol.com/drewinva/vin

and has been there for some time.  I have written a note to Bryceman
asking him to update the link.

Pretty soon we'll have all of the current VIN info online and that
will be good news for everyone!  Then I can start to think about
working backwards from 1963-1897!

 --                    ______________                     _
Drew Senko            / Convertibles \                    |\
dsenko@uu.net         \_____Rule!____/     .__====-_._____|_\______
Vienna, VA, USA                     O      [   ___  |-     |  ___  \
http://members.aol.com/drewinva       o o  =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)
_______________________________________________\_/____________\_/_____

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 18:12:31 +0200
From: "TRONDJARLE PEDERSEN" <trondped@c2i.net>
Subject: test dont read



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 12:31:26 EDT
From: StryderDwg@aol.com
Subject: 1974 Delta 88 Royale Convertible

I have a 1974 Delta 88 Royale Convertible that is virtually perfect!  However,
there are a few small, incidental items that I would like to find for my baby.
I would be very interested in hearing from anyone with information about what
sources there are available for parts.  I am most interested in original
parts, as I intend to keep the car faithfully original.

Thanks!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 13:00:53 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Shift points and 60 footers

It interesting to see all the responses of this topic.
We all seem to launch at the same rpm's and shift at the same rpm's
How so many people building and racing their cars could all come up with
the same formulas for their best performance of their cars, and we all have
the same characteristics in our driving habbits.
Just an interesting observation

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454
1970 442 Convertible  (PARTING OUT)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 10:18:14 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Steering Gear Interchangeability

Straight bolt on should be (99% sure) 65-70 88's, Starfires
and 98's. I've had mine rebuilt by Lee Mfg in Sun Valley
and by an unknown entity in NorCal. I like Lee box way
better.

cf

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fred Orcutt [mailto:f_m_o@email.msn.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 1998 4:46 PM
> To: Olds List
> Subject: Steering Gear Interchangeability
>
>
> The steering gear in my 69 Delta needs replacing or rebuilding.  Could
> someone refresh my memory about which gear boxes are a
> straight bolt-on
> interchange?
>
> Also, as a practical matter, the rebuild kit runs under $50.
> Not bad, if
> its not too difficult a task once the box is pulled from the
> vehicle.  Is it
> worth messing with in terms of time, effort or special tools??
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 10:21:58 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: Installing Drip Moldings!

The end of the drip molding installation saga:

Use an adjustable "C" clamp  with a rubber foot on each end (to protect
the molding shine!). Put just enough force on the stainless to get it
over the lip which secures it. Once I figured this out, last night it
was a 3 minute job.

Can't wait to get the rest of on tonight. Whoopee!

Ya gotta love figgering out stuff like this. Cheap too!

Hope this tip helps the rest of you. When I have a moment I'll tell you
all about swapping from manual to power windows.

cheers,

cf

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 13:28:01 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Computer Chips

Tell me. Is there aftermarket chip makers for an 1986 Cutlass computer. Does
this computer warrant any performance chip? does it control any fuel/timing
aspects. Or does it just primarily function converter lockup in my 200-4R?
If chips available, please supply contact info directly.

Thanks

Gary.
gjcouse@francomm.com

86 Olds Cutlass Supreme Brougham

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 19:36:13
From: <crl6420@online.no>
Subject: Re: Shift Points and Launch RPM

At 22 Sep 98, you wrote
>I launch off idle 650 rpm 60 ft 1.66  to1.70 shift at
>5500 also as Rob said, to many different factors to
>take in.  I have 3500 stall 4.11 and 26 tall tires M T
>et streets

> Butch 68 442 post

what are your ET`s down the 1/4 ?

 Chris RL

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 20:13:10
From: <crl6420@online.no>
Subject: test

sorry, got some problems...
Chris RL

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 11:24:40 PDT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cross Border Shipping Warning

...With NAFTA, you'd think they'd ease up on that stuff.  But if it
helps prevent large orders of crack, etc. from enterring kids'
communities, I guess I'd not be too upset for the inspections/lack of
privacy.  But the least they could do is repack it to a reasonably safe
status...

Hey,

That's what drug dogs are for.  They can sniff the stuff out without
opening every package that goes by.  Personally, I see it as an invasion
of privacy.  I would be raising a stink if it happenned to me.  Most of
the complaints that I see here is from personal accounts of mail/customs
abuse of their authority.

Just my $.02,

Chris Rivier
'66 Delta 88...The BEAST.   We're BACK!
'88 Festiva...ZIPPY 165K+@40mpg...lawn ornament, waiting for tranny.


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 13:43:17 -0500
From: "Darrin Johnson" <xdarrinj@ti.com>
Subject: Cleaning my garage - parts for sale

I am cleaning out my garage and attic and would like to sell some of my
excess parts.  I have a set of fenders for 71-72 Cutlass in fair condition.

RH - fair condition, has a patch in the lower corner plus some dents
LH - fair condition, mostly straight but heavy surface rust - is rusted
through in the lower front corner where the front brace would attach.

Not sure if anyone could use these, but I will sell them cheap.  Make offer.

I also have:

Intake manifold from a 1974? 350 with egr - $35.00 plus shipping.
core support - straight, some rust, but not rusted through anywhere - $60.00
prefer not to ship.

I would consider trades:  I am looking for a good set of black plastic
fenderwells for a 71-72 Cutlass.  Would also like to find 71-72 442 grills
in good condition.

I am located in the North Texas Area.

Darrin Johnson
972-442-4229
xdarrinj@ti.com
djohnsn@ibm.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 14:46:44 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: any shows near CT

Englishtown, NJ Oct 10 - 11th.
Hotrod East Coast Cruse. Starts in Boston Mass. Oct 17th. Then to Suffern NY
on the 18th. Somewhere in VA on the 19th.

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom

gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>
  
"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS









<>-----Original Message-----
<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of RICH6986@aol.com
<>Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 1998 9:29 AM
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<>Subject: any shows near CT
<>
<>
<>Just wondering if anybody knows of any shows coming near the CT
<>area any soon
<>TIA   Rich
<>82,85 cutlass supreme
<>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 12:12:35 -0700
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Installing Drip Moldings!

Chris Fair wrote:

> Hope this tip helps the rest of you. When I have a moment I'll tell you
> all about swapping from manual to power windows.

This is of definite interest to me.  Frosty could use some electric
windows!

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 15:16:09 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: New toy/East Coast Power Tour

Well, I've bought my first 442 in over 11 years!  I obviously don't have
enought projects to finish, so I went out and bought a 69 442.  The car is
coming from Birmingham, AL, and has numbers-matching block, carb,
distributor, and rear end (3.23 posi).  The TH400 is unfortunately not
original, but that gives me a good excuse to swap in a 4 spd.  It has A/C
(non-functioning), buckets, console, and factory PDB.  The interior is in
good shape, with only the driver's bucket having a few small tears and
split seams.  The car was originally Aztec Gold (code 75) with black vinyl
top and black interior.  Body is extremely solid with only the usual rust
on the bottom of the driver's front fender and a very minor hole behind the
left rear wheel.  The trunk lid is also rusted, but a good one comes with
the car.  Brakes and carb have been recently rebuilt.  The car is being
picked up today and should be delivered by Sunday or Monday.

That's the good news.  The bad news is that the car was last registered in
1987 (ironically when I last bought a 442).  For roughly the last four
years the car has been indoors.  Unfortunately, the owner at the time
attempted to hand sand the car to bare metal.  He managed to do some
sanding on virtually every panel on the car before giving up, resulting in
splotches of surface rust everywhere (the car has been outdoors for the
last two months).  It really looks like h*ll though it will clean up
easily.  The real problem is that early in the car's life, the front end
was apparently hit and replaced with a Cutlass Supreme nose.  This, of
course, means that it has the incorrect flat hood and the wrong chrome on
the front fenders.

The engine currently has incorrect J heads (but the original intake and
exhaust manifolds).  The timing chain is loose, and the water pump and
transmission leak.  Underhood wiring is a rat's nest, and the grilles are
missing.  It does have the correct rear bumper, but both need chrome.

As I noted above, the main reason I bought this car is the condition of the
body.  I had really started to get my 70 W-30 in shape for the power tour,
but the more I got into it, the worse the rust got.  It's beginning to look
like a winter trip to the Southwest to pick up a 70 donor body.  In the
mean time, since I only have three weeks left, I figured I needed a
challenge.  The plan is to make this 69 operational and to get the body
primered in time to drive it on the power tour.  I've already paid my $25
registration (stay tuned; if I don't make it with this car, I'll have a
paid-up slot available...).

The one thing that I really need for this car is a correct 69 Cutlass S/442
hood.  If anyone has one for sale, preferably on the east coast, please let
me know (privately, not on the list).  I'm planning to be at both Carlisle
and Hershey, so I could pick it up there.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 15:27:58 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Power Tour Web Page

With the East Coast Power Tour approaching, check out the following URL for
a daily agenda.  Also, despite the published cutoff of Sept 18th for $25
registrations, they were still accepting them as of yesterday.  Go ahead
and try.  The fee at the gate is $50 if you want to sign up.

http://www.petersenevents.com/touring_events/powertour/east98/daily_powerto
ur.html

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 02:44:04 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: He*p or H*lp

How fast were you going?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
> To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: He*p or H*lp
> Date: Wednesday, September 23, 1998 10:11 AM
>
> Hello, is anyone out there this time of the morning? It's 10:00 am St.
Lou
> time. At 7:45 this morning I hit a deer with the 75 Cut Sup. Lost the
right
> side grille, and front bumper. Some sheet metal also, but I can fix that,
> need the grille, right side, opposite the driver, can send bumper to shop
> and hope they don't screw it up too bad. Would anyone know who might have
a
> grille (show condition) for this thing), would like to get the car in the
> body shop as soon as possible. USA doesn't carry anything that new. ANY
> help worth be greatly appreciated, sooner the better. Got the mirrors
> painted and was ready to cover it and store by this week end. Going out
> today and buying an S-10 to drive to work. (Too soon old and too late
> smart). Sorry, I'm really pi**ed, may but the truck and go out and hang
one
> on. Thanks,
> Lou Biggs
> lbiggs@intertek.net
> 67 442 all orig.
> 75 CS same way

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 14:00:02 -0600
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: RE: Installing Drip Moldings!

I'm putting together a web page that deals specifically with How-To
Oldsmobile stuff.  Randy Geisel and myself have already put together some
good stuff, but we need more.  If anyone is interested in contributing to
this page, send me a note.  I would like to have pictures to go along with
descriptions, because I think pictures just make everything so much easier
to understand.  So Chris, if you haven't already done the Power Window swap,
how about taking some pictures along the way? ;)  Also, if you could, maybe
take a picture of your little drip molding tool and how you made it, and
maybe a picture showing how to use it...

Anyone else out there that wants to help out the olds community by
publishing some how-to articles?  If so, drop me a note:
mailto:blaines@strata3d.com

Thanks,
Blaine

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Chris Fair
> Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 1998 11:22 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Installing Drip Moldings!
>
>
> The end of the drip molding installation saga:
>
> Use an adjustable "C" clamp  with a rubber foot on each end (to protect
> the molding shine!). Put just enough force on the stainless to get it
> over the lip which secures it. Once I figured this out, last night it
> was a 3 minute job.
>
> Can't wait to get the rest of on tonight. Whoopee!
>
> Ya gotta love figgering out stuff like this. Cheap too!
>
> Hope this tip helps the rest of you. When I have a moment I'll tell you
> all about swapping from manual to power windows.
>
> cheers,
>
> cf
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 13:09:19 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: EPA: Response to the 1965 dual cats

> Well, I was searching the right areas, but did not find because
> of the oblique language used in the documents. This kind response
> came by way of a comment I made at the bottom of a form I sent
> via Email asking for an emissions fact sheet.

[...much bureaucratese and legalistic mumbo-jumbo deleted...]

>> Exhaust back pressure and the exhaust system configuration are
>> elements of design of the emission control systems as certified
>> by the vehicle manufacturers.
[...]
>> Since installing catalytic converters on vehicles which did not
>> originally have any would reasonably be expected to decrease
>> emissions, we would not generally consider it a violation to
>> install one or two or more converters.
[...but...]
>> In fact, reducing the flow to each converter of a dual system
>> could actually extend the time necessary for the converter to
>> light-off (warm up and start operating) thereby causing much
>> higher cold start emissions.
[...]
> And that's the way it is.
> Nothing like the facts.

Okay, lemme see if I can summarize what the gummint is saying here:

1) We probably wouldn't penalize you for attaching a convertor to a
1965 car in the hopes of cleaning up its emissions, but...

2) The engine and transmission were designed to operate with a certain
amount of exhaust backpressure, and having a convertor down there would
change the backpressure levels slightly in a way that was not designed.

3) Furthermore, hanging two on a dual system may not be effective if
the exhaust flow is spread too thin; the gases might never heat the
convertor hot enough to get it processing the exhaust anyway.

Basically what they're saying is, "Thanks for caring about the
environment, but save your money." Besides, Karl, one properly tuned
1965 Olds is a lot cleaner than many other cars on the road today.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 16:43:09 EDT
From: JCRASH7@aol.com
Subject: Re: White smoke

> Ok, I forget the VERY first post of this, but does it click in forward and
>  reverse?

On Monday it did, but yesterday it was only reverse.

I would think that it COULD be the rear end getting ready to give
> up?

Wouldn't surprise me...

>  And water out of the tailpipe on startup is ok, most of the time, as long
as
>  it doesn't continue after teh car has been warmed up a while. Weird
>  symptoms....Dorian

Ok, thanks,
Joe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 17:45:41 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: ISO '74 Delta Convert Parts

Not on the list, respond to StryderDwg@aol.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	StryderDwg@aol.com
Subject: 1974 Delta 88 Royale Convertible

I have a 1974 Delta 88 Royale Convertible that is virtually perfect!  However,
there are a few small, incidental items that I would like to find for my baby.
I would be very interested in hearing from anyone with information about what
sources there are available for parts.  I am most interested in original
parts, as I intend to keep the car faithfully original.

Thanks!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 16:40:22 EDT
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: American Musclecar:Oldsmobile/Hurst 442 on Speedvision

Hello!

I do not get speedvision where I live,   will anyone be running their VCR???

I would like a copy of the show if possible.


Thanks

Vinny
62 Starfire
68 Hurst/Olds

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 17:49:33 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: ADMIN: Responding to UNBOUNCEd Posts

Just a reminder that those messages I forward with an "UNBOUNCE" header
and the line "respond to <whoever> if you can assist" are intended to be
responded to off the list. Since the people are not members of the list
they will never see your reply if you respond in the usual manner. That's
why I take the time to put their address in there. Should be self-evident,
but I see them answered to the list alone all the time so I thought I'd
remind folks. If you want the list to see the answer too, just c.c. the
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca address. Thanks!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 15:53:26 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: He*p or H*lp

Peter,
about 20, was faster, not sure, screwed up front end pretty good.
Deer dead, Lou Pissed
lou

- ----------
> From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: He*p or H*lp
> Date: Thursday, September 24, 1998 2:44 AM
>
> How fast were you going?
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
> ----------
> > From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
> > To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > Subject: He*p or H*lp
> > Date: Wednesday, September 23, 1998 10:11 AM
> >
> > Hello, is anyone out there this time of the morning? It's 10:00 am St.
> Lou
> > time. At 7:45 this morning I hit a deer with the 75 Cut Sup. Lost the
> right
> > side grille, and front bumper. Some sheet metal also, but I can fix
that,
> > need the grille, right side, opposite the driver, can send bumper to
shop
> > and hope they don't screw it up too bad. Would anyone know who might
have
> a
> > grille (show condition) for this thing), would like to get the car in
the
> > body shop as soon as possible. USA doesn't carry anything that new. ANY
> > help worth be greatly appreciated, sooner the better. Got the mirrors
> > painted and was ready to cover it and store by this week end. Going out
> > today and buying an S-10 to drive to work. (Too soon old and too late
> > smart). Sorry, I'm really pi**ed, may but the truck and go out and hang
> one
> > on. Thanks,
> > Lou Biggs
> > lbiggs@intertek.net
> > 67 442 all orig.
> > 75 CS same way

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 16:39:38 -0000
From: "CES Inc." <testces@netins.net>
Subject: smaller brake power booster

I am trying to find a 9" or 7" power booster that will fit 67 cutlass.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 23:53:52
From: <crl6420@online.no>
Subject: 5A heads

Hello, need some help from you guys
my 350 realy needs a rebuild now, it has the #6
heads. they are in very bad shape.
i have a H/O 307 w.TH 200 R4 (1984) in my -80
cutlass cruiser, (soon to be parts) can the 5A heads
from the H/O engine be used on the 350, or will it
go weak ?
the 350 will be replaced with somthing bigger
next summer (right now, no $) so i need it to run
a few more months.

Thanks for your time & help

Chris RL

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 15:15:24 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: Swapping Power Windows in a 66 Big Car (Long)

Just swapped power windows into my originally manual 66 Starfire Coupe.
Thought you all might benefit from my experience for your cars.

Bryce, hope this contents helps your pages.

Introduction
To start get lots of donor parts. I had 3 wiring harnesses and 2 full
sets of regulators (8 total) with motors. This turned out to be good
since each of the harnesses had cuts into them on the driver's door from
when they'd been pulled. Some motors were weak or bad too. The harness
cuts were mostly laziness, but expect that soldering and heat shrink
tubing will be part of this work. Also the connectors to the motors are
special high-amp jobs. You may need extra of these since they corrode
and mate with the motors over time. Also the plastic connectors are
brittle, they break . You'll need a 7/16's socket, nut driver, grease,
and some spare bumper bolts with nuts. A test light and long flatblade
and phillips screwdrivers are helpful too.

My approach was to do the wiring first, then install regulators, then
mate the two. This took me about 15-20 hours, but I've wired another
very similar car. Along the way, I  used one window wiring setup in the
car as an electric motor testbench. Just hook a ground wire to the motor
and use the window switch to test. It's a good idea to clean & grease
all the regulator roller tracks and rivets while they're out of the car.
S'also good to test the motors out of the car. These windows had a full
life before they got to you. Make sure none of the plastic rollers are
broken, this will impede if not prevent smooth motion (and/or blow
fuses).  Spare motors are a good. When pulling them off donor cars look
out for the regulators they're attached to (see below). The motors are
quite common and swap from 65-75 or so. Front and rear motors on a side
are the same, but left and right side motors are different. If I needed
more, I'd pull rears window motors, my theory is rear windows get used
less so the motors will be fresher.

Electricals
The electrical system on my 66 Starfire (and the 88 and 98) originates
at the junction block with a wire to a firewall mounted circuit breaker
(40amp I think). From there the juice goes to a relay mounted behind the
driver's kick panel, then into the window wiring harness from there. The
window harness is really 3 pieces: a front section which covers the
driver's
door, passenger door and connection to the main harness; the ribbon
cable carrying switch signals and electricity to the rear windows; and
the rear harness which covers the rear quarter windows. The 4 door
system is similar, just substitute the words "rear doors" for "quarter
windows".

Mechanicals
Solder, heat shrink wrap and stress relieve all electrical connections.
With any wiring passing through metal (i.e. into the doors or quarters)
isolate the wires from wire-chewing sharp metal with rubber grommets.
The factory holes for the quarter panels are 1.25" diameter, my car
didn't have these. I drilled 1 3/8's holes and the factory grommets are
just bit small. Darn. The only holes I needed to cut were holes to route
the rear quarter wiring, in the doors, they pass through the usual
rubber boots. If your car doesn't have these, you'll need to punch them
out, you should be able to feel the insets where you should cut to make
these holes in the just below (and above) the hinges. See your body man
for further advice on this. For the big cars, Fusick sells the rubber
boots to cover the wiring, probly A bodies too.

There is no need to change the window channels for this swap. If your
windows go up & down smoothly now, they will after the swap too. The
only mechanical swap you need to make are the regulators -- power for
manual. There are 4 of these, 1 for each window.

All regulators, power or manual are _spring loaded_ &  WILL hurt you. Be
VERY careful when changing these. 13 years ago I met a man with a full
cast covering his hand, he'd broken it doing this job. That's how long
I've been scared of spring loaded regulators.

To protect yourself from regulator bites:
For each window there is a point in its up/down travel where a hole in
the lifting arm gear lines up with a hole in the steel plate it's
riveted to. This hole fits a bumper bolt.  Slip in the bumper bolt.
Secure it with a nut on the other side to hold the gear teeth in place.
Then it's safe to remove the motor. DO NOT remove the motor without
securing the two spring loaded pieces. It will bite your hand off. Nuff
Said.  I didn't have any problem with the manual regulators on this
point, but it's smart to take similar precautions there. Just look for
the point in the up/down travel where the holes line up and lock 'em in
place. You can replace these springs if you have spares, they're
different from front to rear, but left and right will swap if you
reverse 'em. The way to replace them is to move the lifting arm past the
end of its travel to relieve the spring, then put the new one on and
move it back. Keep that bumper bolt handy to secure when you've got the
new spring on.

Removing Manual Regulators
I removed the regulators on the rear quarters without disturbing the
window run channels (much). Just put the window all the way up, and
remove the 3-4 bolts which hold the manual regulator in place. Once the
regulator is loose, slip the plastic rollers out of their run channel.
Now you wrestle the manual regulator out. It may be easier if you remove
the window, but I preferred the wrestling match. If you need to yank the
window, don't remove the glass from it's frame, just unbolt the two
window stops (one front, one rear) just under the glass and you
can pull it up from it's run channel. Note the vertical positions of the
stops though, otherwise your window will go too high or too low in it's
full-up position. On the front doors remove the lower roller channel at
this point, note it's position, particularly the

When the regulator is out, this is a good time to reinstall that
stainless trim you spent all week buffing up.

Installing Regulators
With the rears I just put the windows all the way up and slipped the
regulators in when the arms were in about 3/4 up position. Anyway they
were mostly up. This required some 180
spins inside quarter to "wrap" the regulator around the inside of the
front window run channel. Then when it's not quite in place, but close,
put the plastic rollers in their channel and
snug everything up. This is the time consuming part -- you're holding
the window up (with a screwdriver jammed in), trying to put the roller
in it's channel,  and then get a bolt in the thing before it all gets
out of alignment. Once you have the roller in channel, put in the other
4 7/16's bolts in the electric regulator and connect the wiring. After
all that mechnical wrestling the ease of popping in a wiring connector
is cool.

With the fronts, I pulled the windows out of their run channels because
then I had tons of room to put the power regulators in, they were about
3/4's to 7/8's of the way up at this point. Once I had them in I had to
run them up and down a bit to get the windows on their proper rollers.
Unlike the rears, I had the fronts switched & powered as I was slipping
the window on its rollers.  I went as follows on the fronts: 1) mount
window on the rear upper roller, on the arm actuated by the motor, 2)
mount window on the front upper roller, on the "swing arm"(?),3) mount
swing arm lower roller in the lower channel. The lower roller goes last
because it's channel is a easily removed and adjusted horizontal piece
unconnected to anything else -- it's easy to slip in & out. Once you've
got the upper rollers in their track, slip the lower track on it's
roller and bolt it in. The lower track controls the pitch of the front
windows (i.e. whether the front of the window is equal, higher, or lower
than the back in height). Once you've tightened up all the bolts, you
should be ready to roll.

If anyone has questions, post away. Sorry this was so long, but I wanted
it to be clear to someone who is where I was at 18 -- interested, but no
experience at all.

cheers,
cf

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 18:44:58 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: Shift Points and Launch RPM

My last time was 11.88 till the track shut me down I ran the 1/8 last
week at 7.42 at 92mph   installing safty equipment now for 1/4  will let
you know than..  Butch

crl6420@online.no wrote:

> At 22 Sep 98, you wrote
> >I launch off idle 650 rpm 60 ft 1.66  to1.70 shift at
> >5500 also as Rob said, to many different factors to
> >take in.  I have 3500 stall 4.11 and 26 tall tires M T
> >et streets
>
> > Butch 68 442 post
>
> what are your ET`s down the 1/4 ?
>
>  Chris RL

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 19:08:35 -0400
From: "Johnny Gage" <bladernr@roava.net>
Subject: Thank you all

Thank you all who offered advice on the new carb on my 67 Toro...  I think I
have finally gotten it smoothe...  though teh idle is still a bit rough, I
am attributing this to old plugs, and a need for timing adj, and tune up.
so no biggie there...  It no longer blows noxious clouds of radioactive
smoke from the pipes on WOT, and finally accelerates like it should.  In
fact, I was on my way to work this morning when a lil kid in a Ch*vy C*m*ro
pulled next to me at a light.  I, Of course didnt think much of it, but when
the light turned green, the Ch*vy took off the line like a banshee...  I
merely eased into the road with sudden acceleratuion, threw the Toro into
2nd, or Super (as the manual calls it) and suddenly, no more chevy.
hehehe...  smoked it.

I have to admit, that was the highlight to my entire shift.  I loved it.  I
can think of no better way to start your day than by whipping the tails of
some snot nosed lil kid with a car that they think is just unbeatable...

so anyway, thanks again to all you who offered help.  I greatly appreciate
it.

Jeff
><> ><> ><> ><> ><> 67 Toronado  ><> ><> ><> ><> ><>

Jeffrey Lane, EMT-ST                                ICQ#18716911
                    http://www.roava.net/~bladernr
    bladernr@roava.net               EMTBoy9@aol.com

Sr. Sergeant, Equipment Officer  | EMT-ST/Driver
Fort Lewis Rescue Squad, Inc.   | United Ambulance Service
Salem, Virginia                             | Roanoke, Virginia

"Knowledge is power.  But power corrupts, and corruption is a sin, so if
you seek knowledge, you will burn in hell. . ."

- ----------------------------------Carpe
Noctum------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 19:21:08 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: 5A heads

> cutlass cruiser, (soon to be parts) can the 5A heads
> from the H/O engine be used on the 350, or will it
> go weak ?
> the 350 will be replaced with somthing bigger
> next summer

Why, yes, they will bolt up.  However, you may notice the port size on
the intake may be a slight smaller.  Never compared the 350 vs. 307, but
that's what I here.  If the heads are good, and you just need a temp
fix, then I say go for it.  If they're better than your 6 heads now, you
can't kill it anyway.  Gotta be better than what you have.  I would
suggest running the intake with the heads as well, so that there will be
no mismatch opportunities.

Good luck.
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 19:29:13 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Fwd: Back to original -- engine compartment

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Return-path: <CPEARLPARK@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Back to original -- engine compartment
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:05:03 EDT
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

Does anyone have (or know where to find) a photo of the way a 71 455 should
look in a 4-4-2?  I'd like to get back to original.  Currently have a chrome
open air cleaner ("Made in Taiwan" sticker on the bottom -YIKES), chrome valve
covers, yellow plug wires, etc.  I have a W-25 STEEL hood that I don't really
want to lose, but would like the right air cleaner system.  Also looking for a
sport steering wheel (Brothers "no" , Year One "no") and period front seat
belts (GM or Fisher logo, which?). Took 92 year old Grandma for a ride with
the top down on Sunday and she was looking for anything she could find to get
a grip on -- what a riot!

- --part0_906593354_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 19:30:09 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Fwd: High Rev's and W's

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From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Return-path: <CPEARLPARK@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: High Rev's and W's
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 19:54:06 EDT
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Mike, Thanks for the info. I may have to look into those other rear ends as I
do a lot of highway. I can't really get anywhere from here without the
turnpike or an interstate...  "Been travelling quite a ways recently to the
shows (I definitely have the bug). The Hemmings show in Bennington was just
OK.  Way too many Beanie Babies at the swap. What's the attraction?  This
weekend in Ipswich, MA is what I'm told is the creme de la creme of
collector/exotics shows.

One more about the W's. I know I don't have a W-30 and the car is very low on
options, but I do have the scooped hood.  The thing is... it's steel, not
glass. I can't find any references to anything other than glass.  So where did
this hood come from?  The previous owner claimed he spent $1400 incl. shipping
to get it (used). What car did it come from??

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Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 19:30:49 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Fwd: Nearly constant squeal

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From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Return-path: <CPEARLPARK@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Nearly constant squeal
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:09:17 EDT
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Experiencing this in my 71 4-4-2. 'Pretty sure it's wheel noise, but goes a
way for a while after applying the brakes. Also seems to change as I turn the
wheel, even slightly.  Wheel bearings??  Car is new to me and I'm a rookie
mechanic.

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Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 20:13:13 EDT
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: any shows near CT

Ipswich MA (north of Boston) this Sunday, on the beach at some estate.
Supposed to be a real snazzy affair.

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Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 20:44:48 -0400
From: "John Gill" <jgill@idmi.com>
Subject: Re: License plate choice

I currently run "OLDS W30" on my plates.  I hate the idea of paying nearly
$75 per year for plates on a car that I drive less than 1000 miles per
year.  My birthday is next June and I will convert to historical plates
which are considerably cheaper.

Many states have the capability to check via computer (dumb terminal via
Unix in Ohio in all license bureau offices) as to the availability of a
vanity plate.  This lets you know instantly it a plate is available.

John

- ----------
>
> W30OLDS, W30 442, WTHIRTY, 1970W30, OLDSW30,  442 W30,  70 W30,or  just
> W30.
> Car is a 1970 442 W-30 conv.  What do you think?  David OCA #30416
> _____________
>
> I think I'd put money on all of those already being taken in just about
any
> state.  When Virginia went from six letters to  seven on personalized
> plates, I RAN down to the DMV and scored WTHIRTY for my 70.

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Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 21:00:04 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: He*p or H*lp

Lou,

My condolences to your Olds.
However, I was wondering, were you able to salvage the deer?
Suicide by Oldsmobile. I suppose there are worse ways to go.

Mark Hahn
75 Delta 88 Royale Conv.
Cincinnati, Ohio

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Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 21:23:06 -0700
From: "John" <jpoynter@valunet.com>
Subject: Re: Parts for sale

To Jim I'am interested in the shifter and console, and the seats. My e-mail
is jpoynter@valunet.com

- ----------
> From: Jim Olson <jolson@remcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Parts for sale
> Date: Tuesday, September 22, 1998 1:12 PM
>
> Located in the Central Michigan Area.com>
> For Sale:
> *prices do not include shipping or insurance*
>
> 1985 Cutlass factory gauge package - $50
> 1985 Cutlass T-Tops - $50 w/ factory covers (must be insured when
> shipped)
> 1985 Cutlass floor shifter and console - $50
> 1985 Cutlass heavy duty front sway bar - $40
> 1985 Cutlass rear sway bar - $25
> 1985 Cutlass bucket seats (blue) and matching rear seat - $50/all
> 1985 Cutlass interior panels (blue) - $50 (door and rear side)
> 1985 Cutlass front and rear bumpers - $50/pair
> 1985 Cutlass front clip - $75 (w/o radiator)
>
> I have pics for all of these parts (except the sway bars and the t-tops)
> if you want to see them.
>
> Again, prices do NOT include shipping.
>
> If you guys (or gals) are interested and you think the prices are too
> high, PLEASE make me an offer. I need to unload this stuff quickly!
>
> Did I forget anything?
>
> Jim...

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1503
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