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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1590


oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, November 5 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1590



Re: Found build sheet...
Re: Baaad Day!!!!!(kind of long)
Re: buying car
Re: new E-Mail
Re: Pre-fab dual exhaust anyone?
Re: Found build sheet...
apology for crashing the list
Preserving the Build Sheet (Was Re: Found build sheet...)
Re: Baaad Day!!!!!(kind of long)
Re: Mondello's Cryogenic Bearings!!
Re: Mondello's Cryogenic Bearings!!
Re: Mondello's Cryogenic Bearings!!
RE: Convertible Question
RE: Power window conversion
Rocket talk!
Bored this winter? Learn racing tech!
Cool Poster
RE: wmachine; there are real racers here
Re: Bored this winter? Learn racing tech!
Re: Questions about adjusting QuadraJet
Mime-Version: 1.0
Another Q-Jet question
Re: Mondello's Cryogenic Bearings!!
Re: Cool Poster
Re: buying car
Re: Another Q-Jet question
Re: Cool Poster
Re: Found build sheet...
Big car parts
Re: buying car
Re: Mondello's Cryogenic Bearings!!
Re: Mondello's Cryogenic Bearings!!
RE: buying car
Re: buying car
Good Moderate Street Cam for a 1966 330 (45 degree CBA)
Re: 64 olds super 88
Found in usenet postings
Re: 403 vs 307 HO Best heads???
Re: Found build sheet...
Re: Cool Poster
Re: buying car
RE: 403 vs 307 HO Best heads???
Re: metal in oil, ASAP HELP
rocket talk, h*lp
1986 442 engine question
Re: Good Moderate Street Cam for a 1966 330 (45 degree CBA)
RE: Window motor question
FS:  '57-'67 Olds Parts

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 08:57:32 -0500 (EST)
From: "Peg O'Connor" <peg@grove.ufl.edu>
Subject: Re: Found build sheet...

> Should I get it laminated so it doesn't fall apart? I know once it is
> laminated, it is laminated FOR LIFE. Has anyone ever done that to their
> buildsheet? 

That's the only way to keep it forever.  Did that to both of mine and they
look wonderful.  They're protected from dirt, water, etc...

8)
peg

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 06:04:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!(kind of long)

Well, I am finding out like a select few others on this list that
insurance companies blow! I have been messing with this claim for my
Olds for well over a month now. The claims adjuster finally decided on
a price of 2100. I wanted to ask for 2500. Well, her insurance company
sent me a letter yesterday claiming that my car is only worth 2,000 so
they are going to total it. The fee of 250 to get it back means that I
will only have 1774 to try to replace the front bumper, hood, grills,
get the driver quarter fixed, and get it painted! I think not! I am
going to talk to my agent and find out the best way to go about this.
I don't want to take this to court (mainly because financial situation
is hard right now!) but, I will do anything for my Olds! My Olds and I
have been through a lot and I am not going to let her be disgraced
like this! Wish I could say that insurance companies are fun, but I
think that you will have a long battle in front of you! Good luck!
==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 09:23:44 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: buying car

Hey, guys.  A couple of considerations, both good and bad.  First, to
everyone who thinks this car is a fake, we've wasted way more bandwidth
talking about it than the time it takes to check the VIN.  The car is a 70,
and the VIN will start out 344870...if the car is a real 442.  Period.

Second, the comments about white paint hiding a multitude of sins is very
true.  The car should be checked over thoroughly.  Having said that, it
_is_ a $2000 car!  Come on.  Earlier this year, I got extremely fed up when
looking to buy a nice 442 convert after looking at about a dozen allegedly
"rust free" cars in the $10K-$12K range.  When bubbles are being raised in
the bondo areas of these rust free cars, I have a hard time justifying the
price...

As for this particular car, besides the usual rust areas behind the wheels,
(for which patch panels are available), you _will_ find rust under the
chrome around the windshield and back window.  This is extremely difficult
and costly to repair properly, so just be aware.  You likely won't be able
to see it unless you remove the stainless trim around the glass, but you
can get an idication of problems if you see rust on the leading edge of the
dash at the base of the windshield or on the metal part at the rear of the
package shelf.  In addition, look for water stains and discoloration on the
package shelf.  The bottom edge of the trunklid is another popular rustout
spot on these cars.

Is the hood original or a repro?  If original, check for damage to the
metal understructure at the front edge, indicating that it has been hit and
repaired.  Also look for rustout and stress cracks around the hood latch
area on the underside of the hood.  Is the wing original or repro?  I've
had bad luck with repro wings, with cracks forming at the wingtips where
the top and bottom pieces are fiberglassed together.

The main thing I wanted to say involves the true costs to put a "cobbled
together" car back correctly.  Note that I'm not necessarily talking about
a concourse restoration, just a properly functioning automobile.  Figure on
spending two to three times what the car cost.  I'm sure many will disagree
with me, and will cite their own personal good deals (heck, I've got one or
two of my own), but we often forget that once we got the car in question,
we just happened to have parts in the garage that we were able to use to
fix it for cheap (like my incredible deal on a 70 Supreme for $150 with a
blown motor - of course, I just happened to have a good-running 350 4bbl
laying around that dropped right in...).  Keep in mind your own
capabilities (and be honest) when assessing what the car is really worth.

My own recent experience with the 69 442 from hell has likely soured me at
the moment, but I figure when I'm done, this $2100 car will have cost me
$6500.  Note that this includes doing virtually all of the work myself,
including paint and body, building the engine, even machining the block and
balancing the pistons and rods.  On the other hand, I also didn't cut any
corners (I'm too old for that - my experience has shown that the corner I
cut is always the thing that fails first).  And, yes, there might be one or
two mightaswells in this thing.  ;-)

Could I have bought an equivalent 442 for $6500?  Probably not, given what
I've seen for $12K, so it's probably still worth it, but I really wasn't
planning on spending that kind of money right now.  One thing for certain,
if I had to pay someone to do all the work I've done myself, the cost would
be double.  I'm keeping a complete, detailed record of every penny spent on
this car, and I'll post the results when it's done (along with before and
after pics on a web page someplace).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 09:28:41 EST
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: new E-Mail

everett.let me know your new address

jeff...Atl ,Ga

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 09:20:57 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Pre-fab dual exhaust anyone?

Joe Gerschutz wrote:

> Does anyone know of a maker or place to get a prefabricated dual
> exhaust setup (from headers or manifolds) for an 82 Cutlass? Jegs has
> a "Universal Header Dual Kit" for $90 thats ~supposed~ to fit
> anything, according to their tech person.  I don't want to do any
> welding, and don't want to pay for a custom job,

        Don't knock the custom route, yet.  You may be surprised what you
find. I had a custom dual exhaust installed when I lived in Belleville,
Illinois for $210.00.  I was quoted the price over the phone...and they
stuck to it.  They even brought me home while they worked on the car and
came to pick me up when it was done.  When I got a phone call telling me
that they broke one of the exhaust manifold bolts, I was sure the price
would go up.  But they didn't charge me extra for getting it out.  I
don't remember the gauge of tubing used, but I do remember it was
significantly thicker than the "budget" dual prefabs I looked at.  The
price also included my choice of OEM or turbo mufflers and side or rear
exits.  Also, they let me choose whether I wanted the rear exit turned
down or straight out the back.  They did screw exhaust hangers into
non-stock locations, but I'm sure if I had told them to retain the stock
locations they would have done it.  But the car was no longer 100%
original, anyway.  Granted, I'm sure it doesn't look strictly OEM, but I
think I got a great deal.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 09:24:52 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Found build sheet...

> > Should I get it laminated so it doesn't fall apart? I know once it is
> > laminated, it is laminated FOR LIFE. Has anyone ever done that to their
> > buildsheet?

        I put mine on my scanner and saved the file to both my hard disk and
to a floppy.  The original is carefully filed away in my filing cabinet.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 10:16:35 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: apology for crashing the list

Greg informed me that I've sent some people bouncing around due to a
accidental attachment. I have forsaken myself to drive a ford pinto for six
months and then a AMC pacer for another 6. Greg keep up the great work it is a
great list. I appologize to you all. Chris

CHRIS SOMMERVILLE 
69 442SC
70 442HC
70 W31 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 07:32:32 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Preserving the Build Sheet (Was Re: Found build sheet...)

> I put the original between two sheets of plastic such that a student
> might use for an essay cover.  I found some that have a one way in
> slot and holes for a ring binder notebook.  And there they reside,
> visible, but not in any peril.

Be careful. Depending on the type of plastic used, they may be harmed.
I checked with one of my customers just now, Scott Publishing, who do
stamp collecting catalogs and related merchandise, on how to preserve
the old paper of a Build Sheet and whether plastic covers are as risky
as laminating, and here's what they say:

> Yes, you are correct in your assessment. The risk is the same. 
>
> Report covers are not intended for long term storage of
> irreplaceable documents. The plastic can contain harmful PVC
> and other softeners. He needs archival quality storage with
> acetate pockets.
>
> You can feel free to point anyone to our product information
> on our website. I would recommend something like the stock
> sheets, stock pages or stock books (click on Stock Sheets
> under the Miscellaneous heading).
>
> The selection would be based on size of the original document.
> The difference between stock sheets and stock pages is in the
> manufacturer and the material used to manufacture the product.
> Vario Stocksheets are PVC-free plastic, while Hagner or Prinz
> stock pages are archival-type cardboard. 
>
> I hope that helps.

Andy here again. That may sound a little sales-pitchy but I asked
them for the info, they're not trying to sell me. The URL is 
http://www.scottonline.com/Products.htm

Disclaimer: No connection to Scott Publishing except that I support
their publication software (and subscribe to Cars & Parts, their
sister publication :-).

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 07:49:00 -0800
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!(kind of long)

Rock Man wrote:

> sent me a letter yesterday claiming that my car is only worth 2,000 so

Where did they come up with that figure!  I went to your web site and
saw
your car (I assume before the accident).  No way was it only worth
2,000.
You need to get a book like the "Standard Catalog of Oldsmobile" from
your
local Borders (whatever).  Your car probably was in the 2 to 3 range, 
probably closer to 3.  Can't really tell with the pics.  Once you find
the range, determine the $ amount your car is worth.  Take that to the
insurance company!

> they are going to total it. The fee of 250 to get it back means that I
> will only have 1774 to try to replace the front bumper, hood, grills,
> get the driver quarter fixed, and get it painted! I think not! I am

What about radiator support?  There is probably stuff that is hidden
that
is ruined or needing repair.

> going to talk to my agent and find out the best way to go about this.
> I don't want to take this to court (mainly because financial situation
> is hard right now!) but, I will do anything for my Olds! My Olds and I

Well I hate to say you will probably have to sue.  They don't appear to
be reasonable.

Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 09:50:31 -0600 (CST)
From: Bryceman <bryceman@442.com>
Subject: Re: Mondello's Cryogenic Bearings!!

>Mondello has just come out with a new set of 455 bearings that are made
>using some new technology of cryogenically freezing the bearing, thus in
>theory making it 30% stronger than even the tri-metal bearings. Now the
>kicker is the price, about $180.00 for the main and rod bearings. Has
>anyone out there tried them? Is this a "gimmick" or real race bearings?

I have seen this cryogenic process documented on the Discovery channel or
some channel like that. As I recall, the freezing process used makes the
molecular structure of the parts more dense and stronger (or something to
that effect). They were freezing all sorts of stuff, I wondered when
someone would get around to freezing engine parts.
Wonder if Joe will offer other cryogenic bottom-end parts.


Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Oldsmobiles!
J. Bryce Smith
Email: <a href=mailto:bryceman@442.com>bryceman@442.com</a>
Web: http://442.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 12:14:33 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Mondello's Cryogenic Bearings!!

On Thu, 5 Nov 1998, Bryceman wrote:
> I have seen this cryogenic process documented on the Discovery channel or
> some channel like that. As I recall, the freezing process used makes the
> molecular structure of the parts more dense and stronger (or something to
> that effect). They were freezing all sorts of stuff, I wondered when
> someone would get around to freezing engine parts.

Not to mention golf clubs. The latest rages are the Orlimar trimetal and
the Liquidmetal. One or the other or both use this process. The only
consistency is in the price tags: high-end. I imagine any engine parts
would also be way up there in cost. 

> Wonder if Joe will offer other cryogenic bottom-end parts.

Probably as soon as he finds enough folks willing to shell out for them...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 08:28:34 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Mondello's Cryogenic Bearings!!

> As I recall, the freezing process used makes the molecular structure
> of the parts more dense and stronger (or something to that effect).
> They were freezing all sorts of stuff, I wondered when someone would
> get around to freezing engine parts.

Engine parts? They should do turn-signal lenses that way. Imagine
a '68 or '69 Delta, whatever year had those big wraparound corner 
lenses, with Toughened Turn Signals(tm). You could use them like the 
bow of an ice-breaker to plow through snow and ice, etc. Get the kids 
to school on the worst days of the year! Fend off those pesky rental 
Toyotas!  :-)

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 09:20:36 -0800 
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Convertible Question

There is supposed to be a convertible well cover to fill the gap you're
talking about when the top is up. The boot is only for top down driving.
It's basically a big piece of seat cover vinyl -- for Olds of this period
usually the Madrid vinyl pattern, whatever color you want to match either
the interior or the top. Mine's black in my 66 98 conv. 

Feel free to ask more questions about big convertibles, I've done just about
everything to mine and it's mechanically identical
to yours. 
cf


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Shpud [mailto:shpud@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 8:03 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Convertible Question
> 
> 
> Okay list, here's the question.
> How exactly should the back of the top, boot cover etc. fit 
> together on the back 
> of a 67 convertible? It's a Delmont, (I'm sure you ALL know 
> that by now, sorry) I 
> have never seen it with it's top intact, and right now all 
> i've got holding it down 
> are some temporary snaps. The top is on the car, but there 
> are no snaps 
> actually in the top, just in the bottom of the rear window 
> which I put there 
> myself because it works for now, but there appears to be 
> nowhere to connect 
> the boot cover to when the top is up, leaving a big gaping 
> hole right into the 
> trunk. Can anyone provide me with a little guidance on this 
> one, or even a 
> picture or diagram of what everything should look like? Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 09:23:31 -0800 
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Power window conversion

Your best bet is to get a harness or two from a car similar to yours in the
boneyard. They run $30 or so in CA when you can find 'em.
I used two on my Starfire conversion. You're really glad to have extra stuff
lying around when it's 10:00pm (or later) and you want to finish. Also there
are after market harness manufacturers who could probly help with this.

cf

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mikeytvb@aol.com [mailto:Mikeytvb@aol.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 12:51 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Power window conversion
> 
> 
> i have the set of 4 motors, but no harness.  does anyone know 
> if i can make a
> harness?  i know alot about wiring harnesses, but never 
> learned about power
> windows.
> 
> mikeytvb@aol.com
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 12:37:18 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Rocket talk!

Gues what!

It's.........
(Insert theme from Monte Python's Flying Circus)

It's......

Hell! What day IS it anyway?

Well someone intimated a little while ago (last night?) that it was Thursday
somewhere on the planet.

So it must be time for Rocket Talk.

That time when various gearheads with nothing better to do on a cold night in
Chicago and elsewhere than ramble on about what you can spell with the letters
SOME DOLL and other things not entirely appropriate for the Oldsmobile Mail
List Server!

Karl will appear approx. 8pm central time (daylight savings in effect).

Some ICQing may occur but lets be nice to the non-ICQ folks and log on anyway 

AT:

http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner


Why?
Because Karl loves SOM!

That's why!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 12:43:21 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Bored this winter? Learn racing tech!

Not seen before just now.
Sounds cool.
Anyone have prior knowledge/experience.
Think Karl might attend Chicago Seminars!

Check this out:

http://www.goracing.com/
and click on the silvery Dave Morgan icon at the top or;

http://www.goracing.com/davemorgan/

Will get you there!

And the Jim MacFarlane is the Performance Professor who was kind enough to
opine on a 455 in a 1939 Stearman aeroplane!

Tempting!

K

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 13:16:05 -0500
From: David Booker <dbooker@mindspring.com>
Subject: Cool Poster

Found this cool 442 poster for sale. Thought some of you might be interested.

http://www.autotrend.com/0110.html


David Booker
Atlanta

'69 442 Conv (w/w/w 400 AT mint)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 11:22:04 -0700 
From: Arnold Alvin TSgt <alvin.arnold@schriever.af.mil>
Subject: RE: wmachine; there are real racers here

  My hobby is drag racing!!!  IRACEIT is my license plate.  

Louie Arnold
'84 GN - a "G" body car  hee hee
http://www.inergy.com/IRACEIT


> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Shane [SMTP:sgibreal@nctc.net]
> Sent:	Wednesday, November 04, 1998 5:08 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	wmachine; there are real racers here
> 
> 
> 
> WMACHINES@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > I wish people talk about something more Oldsmobile related whether its
> cars,
> > collectibles, clubs or Racing,  especially Racing,  Drag racing that is.
> I
> > think it is important for the new people to understand why this list was
> > created by Greg.  I make a comment on racing experience and get three
> replies
> > and then somebody puts a Paging somebody and has a whole slew of
> comments.  Is
> > this list made up of bench racers or bench enthusiasts or do people
> actually
> > drive and stomp on their cars????  Just my 1.95$ question.  I don't mind
> > deleting, but the stupid stuff needs to stop.  If you need some
> guidance, I
> > can provide Oldsmobile digests from day 1 to present.  It all started
> back in
> > 96 and it needs to upgrade itself.
> >
> > W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
> > 72 442 W-30 Race Rocket
> > visit http://members.aol.com to see actual cars and Oldsmobile links
> 
>   I'm here. Would love to talk drag racing. Have two '67' Cutlass', one
> street
> convertible that runs 12.92 at 99 mph and a drag Supreme that dynoed at
> 700 horses
> befor spinning a cam bearing on only the second pull, never even got to
> see the
> track . Don't want to take any more bw now but you wanna talk racing, we
> can talk
> racing. I enailed you about the convertible earlier.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 10:57:01 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Bored this winter? Learn racing tech!

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Not seen before just now.
> Sounds cool.
> Anyone have prior knowledge/experience.
> Think Karl might attend Chicago Seminars!
> 
> Check this out:
> 
> http://www.goracing.com/
> and click on the silvery Dave Morgan icon at the top or;
> Tempting!



Karl,

Among other things Dave Morgan is a former writer for
National Dragster (NHRA's weekly publication).  He wrote
the Pitside and Pit talk columns.  Always very informative.
He also wrote a drag racing chassis tuning book called 
Doorslammers: The Chassis Book.  He has been conducting
seminars on chassis tuning for several years.  Now that
the seminars are his full time occupation, I don't know
if he has expanded his topic base or not.  Either way,
I'm sure one could not help but learn a lot from him.
I know I have through his columns.

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 14:12:07 -0500
From: "Chris Brown" <Elric@dclink.com>
Subject: Re: Questions about adjusting QuadraJet

>
>
>> You can get the jets from Edelbrock as their Performer
>>carb is based on the Q-Jet and uses interchangeable jets/rods with some Q-
>>Jets, but call and ask for confirmation (because I am not 100% certain of
>>interchange).
>>
>Not doubting Karl but I always thought the Edelbrock carbs were based on
>the old Carter AFB.  They look identical (OK, so one's silver and ones
gold)
>and I thought I read somewhere that Edelbrock bought the rights to the
>AFB's.
>
The actual Edelbrock performer carbs are based on the carter AFB, but
Edelbrock also produces the performer Q-Jet, which is completely
manufactured by Edelbrock (no core parts) but is basically a reworked Q-jet,
they machine out all the burrs and open the carbs up then they put in larger
jets/rods.  all in all the carb has about 20% or more air flow.  You can buy
the separate jets and rods and I believe an edelbrock rebuild kit, which
will convert a stock Q-jet to a performer Q-jet but still wont have all the
machining done.
There is also a performer RPM Q-jet which I believe flows 850 CFM.

Chris Brown
72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 13:12:49 -0600
From: ShawnE@austintx.net (Shawn Eldredge)
Subject: Mime-Version: 1.0

unsubscribe oldsmobile list

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 11:19:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Another Q-Jet question

Does anyone know what the smallest Q-jet was ever made? CFM wise. How
can you tell what CFM your carb flows besides putting it on a flow gauge?
==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 14:12:15 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: Mondello's Cryogenic Bearings!!

Cryogenic treatment of engine parts is not new.  It has been going on for a
long time among the better funded (i.e. professional) engine builders and also
go-kart racers.  There is a kart shop near Indy that performs this magic
freezing and the results are excellent.  Most of the kart and Jr Dragster
stuff frozen is blocks, crankshafts, rods, and camshafts.  These parts become
much more durable for high RPM use after the process.  One of the major ch*vy
mags ran an article on this subject a couple of years ago for automotive
applications.  I don't remember which, maybe Popular Hot Rodding or Hot Rod??
I may have it laying around as I don't throw away magazines, much to the
wife's dismay, so I will look for it.  Mondello's price seemed a little high
(surprise, surprise) for a set of nitrogen frozen bearings IMHO.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 13:45:01 -0600
From: "David Popadic" <davepop@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Cool Poster

Cool poster, but ALOT of money.  I bought the exact poster from the Dell
Auto Museum for under $10 (I think it was like $7.95) and the last time I
went to Volo Auto Museum, they had them also.

great poster though!

- -----Original Message-----
From: David Booker <dbooker@mindspring.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, November 05, 1998 12:17 PM
Subject: Cool Poster


>Found this cool 442 poster for sale. Thought some of you might be
interested.
>
>http://www.autotrend.com/0110.html
>
>
>David Booker
>Atlanta
>
>'69 442 Conv (w/w/w 400 AT mint)
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 14:48:03 -0500 (EST)
From: zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu
Subject: Re: buying car

Well looks like Mikey let a message slip by you all... to those who
doubted the car's authenticity... here's his words:

> my dad stopped by after work.  the vin number is 344870e190303.  the car 
has   
> had a recent paint job.  the interior is going to need replacing soon though.

There's that ever famous 344870!

So looks like it probably is a real'un... VIN on motor might not match...
but in the 2K price range... if it does... it's just an added bonus ;-)
Looks like it might be a decent buy to me... depending on body
condition... Mikey... list consensus is right that white can hide much
imperfection... take THAT from experience!  Just check everything good
(I'd suggest taking a magnet with you).  Crawl under the back of the car
and check out the bottom... particularly the 1/4's right behind the rear
wheels (where mud and water get sprayed when it rains).


    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
 |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
 |  |  |     
 |  |  |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
 | / \ |     
 |/   \|     1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
  \   /         (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
   \ /          http://www.442.com/pierce.html
    |        1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass Brougham
		(parts car) (307, 4bbl, TH350, 2.14:1, 90k miles)
	     1980 Rover 3500 SD1
	        (215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/othercars.html
     	     1979 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
		(260 V8, 2bbl, TH350)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/79cutlass.html
	     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
		(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/bonneville.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 14:01:16 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: Another Q-Jet question

>Does anyone know what the smallest Q-jet was ever made? CFM wise. How
>can you tell what CFM your carb flows besides putting it on a flow gauge?
>==
I  don't   ~know~  but have read that essentailly all Q-jets are 750 or 800 
cfm, & that the 800 cfm models came on 71-73 Buicks & 73 Pontiacs.

Not claiming expertise. Sharing somebocy else's claim to know.

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 14:45:22 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Cool Poster

Cool poster, but ALOT of money.  I bought the exact poster from the Dell
Auto Museum for under $10 (I think it was like $7.95) and the last time I
went to Volo Auto Museum, they had them also.

great poster though!
___________

Amen to that.  I got mine (replacing one I had bought years ago) at an
automotive swap meet this past summer for $6.00.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 14:14:19 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Found build sheet...

Does anyone have the codes on how to decipher the the build sheets?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Peter Berusch <pber710840@email.msn.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Found build sheet...
> Date: Thursday, November 05, 1998 6:46 AM
> 
> I take mine to the copier and make a dupe for reference and show and
tell.
> I put the original between two sheets of plastic such that a student
might
> use for an essay cover.  I found some that have a one way in slot and
holes
> for a ring binder notebook.  And there they reside, visible, but not in
any
> peril.  Peter.
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 15:13:32 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Big car parts

Found this on the web, usual disclaimers, call him, not me:

Date of Posting: 10-29-98
Email Address: pthobby@home.com
Description: 1965-70 Olds delta 88/98 12 bolt posi, 2.50 gears, complete
bolt in from drum to drum including
E-brake cables $150. Also have 1967-70 88/98 disc brake conversion parts
$200. Email or call 602-867-9224 for
more info.
City: Phx.
State: Arizona

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 14:32:25 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: buying car

I as an Olds lover would not want to prevent someone from buying an Olds.
The point I am trying to bring across is that the car may be more trouble
$$$ than he may think he is getting into. A 70 442 in let's say #3
condition should go for about $10,000. A #1 or #2 condition is probably
getting close to the upper $15,000 - $20,000 range. A #4 condition 70 442
should still go for more than $2200. This leads me to believe the car may
be a #5 or #6. 

I just don't want this guy who is buying the car to buy it and find out he
is way over his head with the problems the car has. I have seen people who
want a muscle car (Olds and non-Olds) and then buy something in the range
of what this car looks like. After they find out all the trouble,$$$ and
aggravation associated with it. THEY NO LONGER WANT TO DEAL WITH "MUSCLE
CARS" AND THEN DROP THE WHOLE HOBBY ALL TOGETHER. They think the cars are
stupid,$$$ and a nothing but aggravation. This is what I don't want to
happen. 

I have seen dozens of "A" body cars for sale around my area and they one's
for that price range are just not worth it. They would have body rot
everywhere(maybe hidden to the amateur). They are even to the point of
being unsafe for road use. Leaky brake lines, faulty master cylinders,
wheel bearings bad, rubber gas lines all dry rotted, front steering
components bad, electrical wiring faulty, body structure rusted out ot the
point of structural damage can cause an accident,etc.etc.etc....

If this guy has allot of $$, then more power to him. He can save another
Olds from the graveyard. If he think he is getting a reliable driver for
that price. Honestly, he IS NOT and is probably getting RIPPED OFF. I don't
want to discourage anyone from owing on Olds just discourage anyone from
owning a car that can drive them insane, broke and all together hating
muscle cars and never wanting to won on again. I have seen this happen many
times before......
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: buying car
> Date: Thursday, November 05, 1998 7:16 AM
> 
> GUYS AND GALLS, give him a break, If he likes the car and it is fairly
> straight for the price he could part it out and make his money back. And
> remember that all of our cars stared out as "JUNK OR FAKES" in some ones
eyes.
> It is up to us to put them back into the beautiful cars that we have now.
As
> long as it is solid and in decent shape it is not a bad deal. Not
everyone can
> afford a $21,000 concourse restored W30 from Duffy's. That car could have
> started out as this one. Advice is good but do not belittle a man for
wanting
> to own a dream. just my 2 cents. Chris
> 
> CHRIS SOMMERVILLE
> 69 442SC
> 70 442HC
> 70 W31

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 14:43:30 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Mondello's Cryogenic Bearings!!

Mondello ALSO cryogenically freezes cranks, pistons, rods, even engine
blocks now. When talking to him on the phone he stated that this process
will make the items 30% stronger than anything that is on the market
now....It is just expensive$$$
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Bryceman <bryceman@442.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Mondello's Cryogenic Bearings!!
> Date: Thursday, November 05, 1998 9:50 AM
> 
> >Mondello has just come out with a new set of 455 bearings that are made
> >using some new technology of cryogenically freezing the bearing, thus in
> >theory making it 30% stronger than even the tri-metal bearings. Now the
> >kicker is the price, about $180.00 for the main and rod bearings. Has
> >anyone out there tried them? Is this a "gimmick" or real race bearings?
> 
> I have seen this cryogenic process documented on the Discovery channel or
> some channel like that. As I recall, the freezing process used makes the
> molecular structure of the parts more dense and stronger (or something to
> that effect). They were freezing all sorts of stuff, I wondered when
> someone would get around to freezing engine parts.
> Wonder if Joe will offer other cryogenic bottom-end parts.
> 
> 
> Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Oldsmobiles!
> J. Bryce Smith
> Email: <a href=mailto:bryceman@442.com>bryceman@442.com</a>
> Web: http://442.com
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 13:52:45 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Mondello's Cryogenic Bearings!!

So what is this magic freezing process?  Is it something
they do to new pieces before sizing or can they do it to any
old iron part?

Inquiring minds want to know before they go dipping their
blocks in liquid nitrogen :)


Peter Landowski wrote:
> 
> Mondello ALSO cryogenically freezes cranks, pistons, rods, even engine
> blocks now. When talking to him on the phone he stated that this process
> will make the items 30% stronger than anything that is on the market
> now....It is just expensive$$$
<major snip>

- -- 
Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 13:54:25 -0700
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: RE: buying car

> I as an Olds lover would not want to prevent someone from buying an Olds.
> The point I am trying to bring across is that the car may be more trouble
> $$$ than he may think he is getting into. A 70 442 in let's say #3
> condition should go for about $10,000. A #1 or #2 condition is probably
> getting close to the upper $15,000 - $20,000 range. A #4 condition 70 442
> should still go for more than $2200. This leads me to believe the car may
> be a #5 or #6.

The only problem I see with that generalization is that sometimes, the
sellers aren't really wise to the car's real value for the condition it's
in.  Just because the price is low doesn't mean that it's actually in #5 or
#6 condition.  Every once in a while, a really good deal comes along.  For
all we know, the car has a perfectly straight, rust free body, but the
seller is a young kid that bought it for $1500 with a terrible paint job,
and thought it would be cool to spray paint the car white and paint some
gaudy black racing stripes on it.  And now he's trying to double his money
on it.  Some times people come upon really great deals!  Maybe the owner
bought it from his neighbor for $500, and is just selling it at a lower than
book value, and he doesn't even care, because he's making $1500 or more!
Have you always paid top dollar for everything you've bought?  I haven't.  I
bought my '72 Cutlass Supreme with a $3000 race engine for $400!  I could
sell it for $1500 and be really happy -- even though it might be worth
more -- because I'd be making $1100 on the deal.  Am I making sense?  Good
deals ARE still out there.  I've got a story to prove it that I'll share
with you all here in a week or two.  Keep your eyes out for it, because you
won't believe it...

Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 15:53:54 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: buying car

look everyone.  i am 17 years old.  even if the car isn't perfect, it's a
pretty good start.  2100 for a car that is driven daily?  who wouldn't buy it?
i am a mechanic myself and can overcome anything that is given to me.  all i
really want is a starting place.  i have done a complete body-off restoration
on a 70 442 conv and didn't have any problems.  yes this was done by ONLY 2
"kids".  i am going to buy this car no matter what anyone says to me.  maybe
the guy selling the car doesn't know what he's selling?  maybe he's just sick
of it and looking to get a more economical car.  who knows?  not me.  all i
know is this is a good deal and i am going to take him up on it.  can i end
the string now?  e-mail me personally at mikeytvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 15:27:52 -0600
From: "Dave Rench" <renchd@krause.com>
Subject: Good Moderate Street Cam for a 1966 330 (45 degree CBA)

My brother is looking a cam recommendation, so I thought  I'd elicit the
list's input.

He has a 1966 330 (which has the 45 degree cam bank angle).  We believe,
but haven't proven that its a high compression motor.  It's an original 2
barrel motor, now has a Performer RPM intake and a 650 holley, motor also
has Hooker headers, HEI with Supercoil, Accel wires.  It is in a 1972 4-4-2
(original 350 2barrel car).  Motor is backed by a T-400 with an 11 inch
converter (about 2400 stall) and 12 bolt with 3.91 Posi (from a 1970 W-31).
 He has the stock #3 heads which he is planning to get a 3 angle valve job
and possible new springs on.  He's looking for more midrange power.  He
will probably limit RPM's to 5200 or so due to stock bottom end and unknown
mileage.  

I believe there are a few Crane grinds on this angle and I'm guessing that
Mondello, Dave Smith and Dick Miller can provide cams.  Anybody have
experience with a 45 degree small block that can provide feedback.  If not
I'd assume that what works in a 350 works in a 330 provided it is ground
for the right CBA.




Dave Rench
Krause Publications
http://www.krause.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 16:31:28 -0500 (EST)
From: KINNEYLM@webtv.net (MIKE KINNEY)
Subject: Re: 64 olds super 88

hello everybody, I need some advice on winter storage, should I put my
olds up on blocks for the winter or leave the weight of the car on the
springs,or jack it up part way to take only partial weight off car?
Your expertise is appreciated.    thanks

64 olds super 88 holiday sedan
86 chev S-10
89 buick century
94 pont  transport

Kinneylm@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 16:44:25 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Found in usenet postings

I just inherited a 1966 Toronado.

It's a cool car but needs some work (it has been sitting in a garage for
at least 2 years).

First off, the hide-away headlights don't work (one side is stuck up, the
other is stuck down).  I suppose I need a new motor.  Where can I find
one?

Also, it is missing one hubcap, so I'm searching for one of these as well.

Let me know if you can help.
Thanks

bbyfshmth@aol.com    please reply in private.....!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 16:50:43 EST
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: 403 vs 307 HO Best heads???

What's the best heads for a basically stock 403?  I have 5a's and whatever
stock heads were on an 86 Salon, 307,140 HP 307.

Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 16:54:28 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Found build sheet...

Peg O'Connor wrote:

> > buildsheet?
> 
> That's the only way to keep it forever.  Did that to both of mine and they
> look wonderful.  They're protected from dirt, water, etc...

I thought you had forgotten us.  I hadn't seen you on the list in a long
time.  Welcome back to Oldsland.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 17:19:49 -0500
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: Cool Poster

You can buy that poster at just about any hot rod show..I got mine for
about $10.00

art

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 23:40:03 +0100
From: hezzo <442@swipnet.se>
Subject: Re: buying car

There can't be many 70" 442:s for 2100$
(a unike muscle car at the peak of the muscle car era)
Check the PM muscle guide.
 http://popularmechanics.com/popmech/auto2/AUMCVGM.html

Mikeytvb@aol.com skrev:

> look everyone.  i am 17 years old.  even if the car isn't perfect, it's a
> pretty good start.  2100 for a car that is driven daily?  who wouldn't buy 
it?
> i am a mechanic myself and can overcome anything that is given to me.  all i
> really want is a starting place.  i have done a complete body-off restoration
> on a 70 442 conv and didn't have any problems.  yes this was done by ONLY 2
> "kids".  i am going to buy this car no matter what anyone says to me.  maybe
> the guy selling the car doesn't know what he's selling?  maybe he's just sick
> of it and looking to get a more economical car.  who knows?  not me.  all i
> know is this is a good deal and i am going to take him up on it.  can i end
> the string now?  e-mail me personally at mikeytvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 17:39:33 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: 403 vs 307 HO Best heads???

5a's would probably be good, definitely better than the 7A's from the 86
307.  I have 7a's (72 350) which are good for a 1.3 point increase in
compression.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com




- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of RCKTPWR@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 1998 4:51 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: 403 vs 307 HO Best heads???


What's the best heads for a basically stock 403?  I have 5a's and whatever
stock heads were on an 86 Salon, 307,140 HP 307.

Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 15:44:57 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: metal in oil, ASAP HELP

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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By the way, the oil pressure is good (something like 50 psi cold when =
started and about 30 to 40 psi driving).  Compared to the old 307 that =
had almost no oil pressure (vary, vary low when warm at idle, also like =
200,000 miles plus on the motor).
    -----Original Message-----
    From: Igor T. '81 455DRB <igor455@home.com>
    To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
    Date: Thursday, November 05, 1998 3:23 AM
    Subject: Re: metal in oil, ASAP HELP
   =20
   =20
    >What is your oil pressure at? What are your cold/hot driving oil =
pressure
    >#'s at? What are your clearances at? The mains should be .0020" - =
.0025".
    >Any tighter and you will get main bearing wear. This is from =
Mondello/Dick
    >Miller and other engine builders specs....
    >Pettrix@prodigy.net
   =20
   =20
    Yes, those were the main clearance specs.  I did use plastigauge =
when I assembled the motor, however it was also checked prior to =
assembly.  Block was fully prepped, crank ground, rods redone, etc..  I =
don't see what I could have done wrong.  Everything went in nice, I =
checked for endplay, it was good from what I remember.  Motor runs good, =
exhaust is clean, never stalls or hesitates.  There is no noise except a =
little from the exhaust manifold leak (long story, will get to it).  It =
is not loud so I should be able to hear anything else.  If it was =
bearing going, what kind of noise would it make.  I do believe that it =
is the chrome dipstick because some of these chunks are large and shiny, =
and unless they are picked up by the dipstick, I don't see how they =
could float in the oil and be picked up by the dipstick every time.  And =
like I said, even running my finger over it (outside part, which is the =
same as the part in the motor) it leaves tons of shavings.  I think that =
the motor could have a vacuum leak at the intake because the vacuum =
gauge oscillates tons (did from start).  I also think that the metal =
gasket did not seal that well (I used a bit of silicon).  I have a new =
intake, so the old one goes anyway.  Could this cause anything to go =
wrong like that.  Once (only once and only problem I had) at WOT the car =
cut out at about 3000 rpm for a second and then picked up again.  It was =
like I just let off the gas.  I had this happen to me on the 307 once =
and it was a vacuum hose burned through on the hot manifold making a =
leak.  When I do get it back, I will keep an eye out for a few days and =
see what happens.  In the mean time, I will go there ASAP and change the =
oil/filter.  If a piston ring was damaged, what symptoms would I get.  =
Can the rings break or something.  I once had the motor at 230 deg. =
before I shut it down.  It ran consistent 190 deg. in city but as soon =
as I went faster, it would go to 210 and higher till I slowed down or =
just stopped.  This is hot but should not have done anything bad.  The =
hot problem has been solved now. =20

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<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>By the way, the oil pressure is good =
(something=20
like 50 psi cold when started and about 30 to 40 psi driving).&nbsp; =
Compared to=20
the old 307 that had almost no oil pressure (vary, vary low when warm at =
idle,=20
also like 200,000 miles plus on the motor).</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Igor T. '81 455DRB &lt;<A=20
    href=3D"mailto:igor455@home.com">igor455@home.com</A>&gt;<BR><B>To: =
</B><A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A> =
&lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Thursday, November 05, 1998 3:23 AM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Re: metal =
in oil,=20
    ASAP HELP<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV>&gt;What is your oil pressure at? What are your cold/hot =
driving oil=20
    pressure<BR>&gt;#'s at? What are your clearances at? The mains =
should be=20
    .0020&quot; - .0025&quot;.<BR>&gt;Any tighter and you will get main =
bearing=20
    wear. This is from Mondello/Dick<BR>&gt;Miller and other engine =
builders=20
    specs....<BR>&gt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:Pettrix@prodigy.net">Pettrix@prodigy.net</A><BR></DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV>Yes, those were the main clearance specs.&nbsp; I did use =
plastigauge=20
    when I assembled the motor, however it was also checked prior to=20
    assembly.&nbsp; Block was fully prepped, crank ground, rods redone,=20
    etc..&nbsp; I don't see what I could have done wrong.&nbsp; =
Everything went=20
    in nice, I checked for endplay, it was good from what I =
remember.&nbsp;=20
    Motor runs good, exhaust is clean, never stalls or hesitates.&nbsp; =
There is=20
    no noise except a little from the exhaust manifold leak (long story, =
will=20
    get to it).&nbsp; It is not loud so I should be able to hear =
anything=20
    else.&nbsp; If it was bearing going, what kind of noise would it =
make.&nbsp;=20
    I do believe that it is the chrome dipstick because some of these =
chunks are=20
    large and shiny, and unless they are picked up by the dipstick, I =
don't see=20
    how they could float in the oil and be picked up by the dipstick =
every=20
    time.&nbsp; And like I said, even running my finger over it (outside =
part,=20
    which is the same as the part in the motor) it leaves tons of=20
    shavings.&nbsp; I think that the motor could have a vacuum leak at =
the=20
    intake because the vacuum gauge oscillates tons (did from =
start).&nbsp; I=20
    also think that the metal gasket did not seal that well (I used a =
bit of=20
    silicon).&nbsp; I have a new intake, so the old one goes =
anyway.&nbsp; Could=20
    this cause anything to go wrong like that.&nbsp; Once (only once and =
only=20
    problem I had) at WOT the car cut out at about 3000 rpm for a second =
and=20
    then picked up again.&nbsp; It was like I just let off the =
gas.&nbsp; I had=20
    this happen to me on the 307 once and it was a vacuum hose burned =
through on=20
    the hot manifold making a leak.&nbsp; When I do get it back, I will =
keep an=20
    eye out for a few days and see what happens.&nbsp; In the mean time, =
I will=20
    go there ASAP and change the oil/filter.&nbsp; If a piston ring was =
damaged,=20
    what symptoms would I get.&nbsp; Can the rings break or=20
    something<STRONG>.&nbsp; I once had the motor at 230 deg. before I =
shut it=20
    down</STRONG>.&nbsp; It ran consistent 190 deg. in city but as soon =
as I=20
    went faster, it would go to 210 and higher till I slowed down or =
just=20
    stopped.&nbsp; This is hot but should not have done anything =
bad.&nbsp; The=20
    hot problem has been solved now.&nbsp; =
</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01BE08D3.3D3ECC80--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 17:49:41 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: rocket talk, h*lp

I just tried to connect to Rocket Talk.  I've never done it before, as I
didn't have this computer before.  I am unable to connect.  Do I have to
wait until Oldsmagnet is connected or something.  Thanks y'all.  Oh, I'm
just trying to connect now for testing purposes, don't think I didn't notice
the 8:00 MST note.  It's 4:00 MST now.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 17:47:15 -0500
From: "Mike Mavodones" <mmavodo1@maine.rr.com>
Subject: 1986 442 engine question

 Hi 	
Hope you can help a new subscriber. I have an '86 442 with the power
sunroof and 307 automatic. The motor is making lots of top end noises; no
oil pressure (0). Is there anything different about this motor from
standard Olds motors? Or to put it another way, should I rebuild or
replace? Thanks for any input you other Olds enthuisiasts can give me.
	Mike M.
	Maine   	

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 17:51:27 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Good Moderate Street Cam for a 1966 330 (45 degree CBA)

     I am using the Edelbrock RPM cam in my 330 c.i. 65Cutlass. I am having
awesome results. Is the cam ground for the correct angle?...I don't know. Sure
screams though!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 15:03:20 -0800 
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Window motor question

O.k. so it's the motor. If you can line up the two big holes -- one in the
regulator and other in the gear, you can lock the window in place with a
screwdriver or something and safely remove the motor. If not, figure out
another way to prevent the window from springing upward -- perhaps the last
resort of vice grips, block of wood or something. 

There are 3 7/16" head short bolts which secure the motor to the regulator,
they're in a "V" pattern -- i.e. two on either side (you'll feel 'em, can't
see 'em) and one in the center at the bottom of the regulator. Sometimes the
bottom one has a little 
sheet metal cover on it. This can be safely bent out of the way without
hurting anything. Remove the bolts and the motor will come
free, but as I mentioned, be sure to _secure_ the window in it's tracks
before removing the bolts or it may spring and hurt you. 

I think my move from here would be to remove the glass (7/16"'s open end or
off set wrench), then loosen the front mounting bolts. Those back two
mounting bolts hold a rear run track which is independent of the rest of the
mechanism --. it's a piece you don't have to mess with to get at the motor.
Then see if you can loosen the front mouting nuts enough to get at the motor
bolts. Remove and you're home free.

As if it were that easy. I'd budget about three hours for my first try at
this. 

Let me know if I can guide more from here.
cf

> Thanks for the helpful replies. I did check with my tester 
> light and there
> is power to the motor when I push the switch. I had 
> considered pulling the
> whole mechanism, but I'm kind of leery of that, because there 
> are three or
> four tracks which bolt to various locations on the body, and 
> I'm concerned
> that I might not be able to get it back together if I 
> dismantle the whole
> thing. Also, some of the bolts have some sort of goop on them 
> which appears
> to be intended to discourage removal. Is this really as 
> complicated as it
> appears, or am I missing something?
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 18:19:14 -0500
From: Jim & Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: FS:  '57-'67 Olds Parts

                                  C&M Classic Parts
                      1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                            (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
                                <chermac@exis.net>
                                        OCA# 24275

  Hours:  Mon.-Fri.  4:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.,  Sat. 9:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m., 
CLOSED Sunday
        *We accept all major Credit Cards: VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and
Discover.*

Nov/Dec: List members will get a 10% dicount on any used parts.

                             OLDSMOBILE Restoration Parts

New arrival "Parts"
66-67 SSI Wheels (set of 4)  $200.00
67 442/Cutlass Front Bumper (very good)  $90.00
67 442/Cutlass Supreme Rear Bumper (very good)  $95.00
66 Ninety Eight (mint sheet metal and dash and trim) parting out.
(2) 64-65 2 Bar Spinners (N.O.S.)  $60.00 pr
66-67 400 Engine "E" code (complete and correct, "B" or "C" heads, w/new .025
over forged pistons)  $1000.00
66-67 Rear glass valance panel (mint)  $90.00
66-67 442 Trunk Emblem (nice)  $18.00
67 442 Grille Bar (orig., nice)  $45.00
66-67 Dash Pad (good, 1 tiny crack)  $80.00
66 Cutlass Dash Emblem (mint) $15.00 
66-67 Holiday 2 dr Quarter Panels (mint)  $500.00 pr
67 442 Grille (nice)  $75.00
67 Seats (front bench w/arm rest and rear, mint, black)  $350.00 
67 442 Hood (mint)   $475.00
67 Hardtop door panels $50.00 pr
66-67 400 Intake Manifold  #390390  $75.00
67 442 Gauge Bezel (TH400 pattern)  $35.00
64-65 4 Row Radiator Top Plate  $45.00
65-67 400 Pistons (std, used) $50.00 set of 8
65 442 Dash Emblem (mint, looks N.O.S.)  $70.00
67 442/Cutlass Supreme Wheel well modings  $45.00 ea 
57 (N.O.S.) 88/98 Taillight Lens (1 only)  $35.00
57 (Repro) 88/98 Taillight Lens (2)  $40.00 pr
60 (N.O.S.) 88/98 RH Taillight assm. w/chrome  $125.00
66 (N.O.S.) Cutlass LH Taillight Lens (2)  $25.00 ea
67 (N.O.S.) Vista Cruiser RH Taillight Lens  $30.00 ea
65-7? 3&4 spd Bellhousings $65.00 ea
64-69 4 Spd Console Top Plate (2 pieces, no boot, nice)  $125.00
64-66 Auto Console (black, w/wiring, nice)  $125.00
         
New Repro Parts:
64-67 Battery Tray (Repro)  $30.00
66 442 Tri-Carb Linkage Kit (complete) $78.00
67 442 Grille Bar (repro)  $90.00
67 Fender Eye Brow Moldings (LH/RH, repro)  $73.00 pr
66-67 442/Cutlass Drip Rail Moldings (NEW, repro) $78.00 set
67-70 Turn Signal Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea
67-70 Tilt Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea 

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts 1964-1972 Olds/Cutlass/442
64-72 Clutch Inspection covers (N.O.S.)  $22.00 ea
67-75 TH400 Shifter Cable Bracket (N.O.S.)  $24.00
68-75+ TH350 Shifter Cable Bracket (N.O.S.)  $24.00
68-72+ TH Torque Converter Cover (Plastic, N.O.S.)  $36.00 ea
66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea

Used Parts:
64 Cutlass/442                       
64-65 Conv Rear Side Panels (mixed colors good cond)  $35.00 pr
64-65 330/400 Valve Covers (nice)  $35.00 pr
64-65 Cutlass/442 Conv Rear Side Glass (mint)  $100.00 pr
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $50.00
64-65 Spinner Hubcab (dual bar, single)  $35.00
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00                                                  
Front Bumper Core  $50.00                                                   
F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00 

65 Cutlass/442
65 400 442 4-Jet Carb (rebuilt)  $175.00
65 442 Grille (nice used)  $125.00
65 Cutlass Grille (good used)  $75.00
65 442 RH Fender (no rust, small ding)  $250.00
64-65 Conv Rear Side Panels (mixed colors good cond)  $35.00 pr
64-65 330/400 Valve Covers (nice)  $35.00 pr
64-65 Cutlass/442 Conv Rear Side Glass (mint)  $100.00 pr
65 442 Air Cleaner Top (no base)  $85.00 ea
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $50.00
65 Cutlass Dash Emblem (mint)  $35.00
64-65 Spinner Hubcab (dual bar, single)  $35.00
65 Cutlass 4 Door Rear Wheelwell Die cast pieces (front)  $20.00 pr
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  LH/RH rear $15.00 ea
64-65 F-85 Steering Wheel Center (mint)  $15.00

66 Cutlass/442
66 442 Grille (good bars, nice rocket )  $200.00
66-67 SSI Wheels (nice not perfect, 5)  $250.00 set
66-67 RH "W" Exhaust Manifold (nice)  $100.00
66 442 NEW W-30 Bumper Ducts (2 sets, doesn't include hoses)  $600.00 set
66-67 442 Air Cleaner (2)  $85.00 ea
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $50.00
66 442 Trunk Chrome Panels  $100.00 ea 
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Emblem $10.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Molding  $20.00
66 Spinner Hubcap (Tri bar, single)  $20.00
66 Floor Shift Steering Column Collars $10.00 ea
66-67 Clocks  $40.00 ea
66 Cutlass Supreme Dash Emblem (very nice)  $20.00
66 F-85 Deluxe Dash Emblem (nice)  $15.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Molding  $35.00
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
66 Cutlass Trunk Molding (very good)  $45.00
66 Cutlass Tail Light Bezels (very good)  $65.00 pr
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (nice)   $55.00
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (good)  $35.00 
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
66 Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
Post Coupe Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr
F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea                                  

67 Cutlass/442
67 8 Track Player (nice, works?)  $75.00
67 442 W-30 "C" Heads (VG code, drilled and plugged)  $400.00 pr
67 442 Hurst Shifter for console  $65.00
67 442 W-30 UHV system (complete w/ N.O.S coil and experimental distributor) 
$500.00
67 442 W-30 Core Support (factory stamped, bent on LH side)  $145.00
67 Front Bumper Filler Panel (mint)  $40.00
67 442/Cutlass Radiator Support (nice)  $130.00
66-67 442 Air Cleaner (2)  $85.00 ea
67 Deluxe Full Wheel Covers $35.00 set
66-67 Clocks  $40.00 ea
67 Cutlass Dash Emblem (good)  $10.00
67 Cutlass Supreme Dash Emblems (2 very nice)  $20.00 ea
67 442/Cutlass Front Bumper Guards  $15.00 pr
67 Remote Mirror (good, not great)  $20.00
67 F-85 Steering Wheel Center (good chrome) $15.00
67 Cutlass Supreme/442 Steering Wheel Centers (mint)  $35.00 
67 Fender End Caps  $30.00 pr
67 4 spd Speedometer Adapter (3.42 gears & 4spd)  $45.00
67 Plain Cutlass Holiday Hardtop interior door panels and rear sides (very
nice, blue/green) $85.00 set of 4
67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea
67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.50 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $50.00 pr
67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $90.00 ea
67 RH Fender (small metal patch panel, straight)  $135.00

Big Car Parts:
66-67 Toronado Rear Bumper (very nice)  $100.00
66 Toro Batman Steering Wheel, Tilt/Tele column (black, very nice)  $145.00
62 Super 88 Tail Panel Chrome  (good)  $25.00
62 Super 88 Grille (good)  $50.00
62 Big Car (88, 98, Starfire) Front Bumper (straight, very good)  $95.00 

New reproduction parts:
Convertible Top Boots (Correct Grains for each different year)  $89.00ea
64  Black, Red, Lt. Blue, Fawn, Saddle, Turqoise, White
65  Same as 64  
66-67 Black, Red, Light Blue, Med. Blue, Bronze, Turqoise, White, Gold
68-72 Black, Red, Parchment, Lt. Blue, Teal Blue, Green Gold, Gold, Pearl,
Dk Blue, Dk. Green, Lt. Green, Lt. Saddle, Dk Saddle, Olive Green, Royal
Blue, White, Sandalwood, 

Molded Carpet Sets  $95.00 
64-67 - (Black, Red, Med. Blue, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Maroon)
68-72 - (Black, Red, Maroon, Turqoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Med. Blue, Dk. Green,
Green Gold, Lt. Green, Teal Blue, Saddle, Sandalwood)
73-77 - (Same as 68-72 except Green Gold)

Door Panels  64-72  $265.00 for a set of all 4

Seat Covers  64-72  $335.00 front and rear sets any year or color.

Vinyl Dash Overlays (makes your wood dash areas look like carbon fiber)
$50.00 set 

Lifetime Guarantee on all correct bead window felts  $92.00 set (inner & outer)
66-67 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (correct bead type) 
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (not Supreme Coupes, correct bead) 
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv (Outers only, correct bead)  $50.00

Replacement Window Felts (Flat type)  $60.00 set (inner & outer)
64-72 Cutlass/442 (state year and model)

Glove Box Liners
64-67 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
68-69 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
70-72 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99

Qrt Seals
70-72 Cutlass Supreme & Conv Qtr End seals  $13.00 pr

Hood Insulation
64-65 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
66 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
67 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
68-70 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner (wclips)  $18.00
70-72 Cutlass Supreme Hood Liner (w/clips)  $18.00
73-77 Cutlass $28.00

Liner Clips
Round Clips  $1.00 ea
Square Clips  $1.00 ea

A-Arm Shields
68-72 Upper A-Arm dust shields  $14.99 pr

Jim Chermack, C&M Classic Parts
Virginia Beach, VA
(757)474-0869  chermac@exis.net
Mon.-Fri. 4-10 p.m., Sat. 9 a.m.-3 p.m.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1590
*********************************

