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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1567


oldsmobile-digest      Friday, October 23 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1567



How many manufactured?
Re: Heating/AC
Re: TherMac Mk II
Re: Heating/AC
Re: TherMac Mk II
Re: Heating/AC
Re: Olds Ads
Re: KNOCKING TRANNY
Re: Heating/AC
Re: IROC Cutlass Spotted!
Best body filler choices
Re: Heating/AC
Re: How many manufactured?
Re: Best body filler choices
Re: Ticka Ticka (was somethin else)
Re: PERFORMANCE
Date:	Fri, 23 Oct 1998 11:22:39 -0400
Blower Motor Wiring
Re: KNOCKING TRANNY
Re: Best body filler choices
Re: KNOCKING TRANNY
DOH!!!  was: Break SOM! + Q's
Front Cover Install was: Oil pan sealage
1964 F-85
1964 F-85
Re: 1964 F-85
????????
Re: 1964 F-85
Whitewalls
Re: Whitewalls
??????
pics442 -70
testing non-thermal fan clutch
Re: 1964 F-85
Re: Front Cover Install was: Oil pan sealage
HeadBolt torque???
FW: Rance EFI
Re: HeadBolt torque???
Re: 1964 F-85
Rear axle compatibility.
Re: Rear axle compatibility.
Re: 1964 F-85
'71 Contvertible
Karl: 2-jets
RE: Rear axle compatibility.
free intake manifold
Re: Rear axle compatibility.
Re: HeadBolt torque???
Re: Rear axle compatibility.
Karl's Reply to Matt: 2-Jets!
UNBOUNCE: Fr*e Intake Manifold
Re: Rear axle compatibility.
[none]
Re: Whitewalls
Re: Daytona under the lights, 8:00
Can I make a 455 out of a G block 400?
Re: HeadBolt torque???
Re: pics442 -70
Oldsmobile Screen Saver
Re: Can I make a 455 out of a G block 400?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 22:28:18 +0000
From: Nadine Gislason <nadineg@telusplanet.net>
Subject: How many manufactured?

Hi there,

Just recently subscribed mainly because I haven't been able to find the
information I want myself (don't know where else to look on the web!)
I'm wondering how to go about finding out "How many of a certain make
and model were manufactured in one year?"

On my brother's behalf, I will be more specific if that helps-- I would
like to know "How many 1987 Oldmobile 442 (with T-tops) were
manufactured in total?"

If someone can help me out here I'd really appreciate it.  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 21:43:43 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Heating/AC

Chris Brown wrote:

> I am trying to get my heater to work properly, but the levers that work the
> vents and the hot cold so not do the job they are supposed to do, I noticed
> a whole plate of vaccuum spaghetti under the dash hooked to these, but they
> all seam to be intact, is there supposed to be a line running from the
> engine to the firewall, and where on the firewall is it supposed to go to?
> Any vaccuum diagrams that I have do not show this, and the only place I know
> of that supplys enough vaccuum to necessitate lines is the motor.



Chris,

You are correct in that the vacuum source for the heater,
A/C,
and vents is from the engine.
There is a vacuum tank located on the firewall that has
a hose connected to the intake manifold.  And from the tank
another hose passes through the firewall to the plate of
spaghetti.
This is the vacuum supply source for the dash control
panel.
If it is not connected, none of the vents for A/C or heater
will
operate.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 00:13:20 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: TherMac Mk II

Igor, you are the best.  I ALMOST jumped up and looked at it just now, but
I'm going to wait until tomorrow...it's dark now and also kinda cold
(people north of the Mason-Dixon line are scoffing..)

So when the Thermac is CLOSED, then air from that accordian-looking black
intake hose (cold air) is NOT being let into the carb, and when the Thermac
is OPEN, then air from the hose IS being let in?  Is this correct?  Does
this mean that air from the hot-air pipe is ALWAYS being let into the carb?
 Or is it CLOSED = HOT AIR, OPEN = COLD AIR?

At 11:17 PM 10/22/98 , you wrote:
>>1984 Delta 307.  We are talking about the TherMac.  There are two vaccuum
>>hoses.  One runs from the TherMac to the temp sensor in the air cleaner.
>>The other runs from the temp sensor to ?????????????.
>>
>>Where DOES it run to?  I've heard "on the carb", and that very well may be
>>true, but WHERE ON THE CARB EXACTLY?
>
>
>OKAY.  Just went out to look at my '81 307 Carb on the shelf in the garage.
>KEEP IN MIND that this may vary from year to year.  My '76 emissions carb is
>different from my '81 which is of course different from my current '70
>non-emissions.  That hose hooks up to the port on the right side of your
>carburetor.  That is look at where your fuel pipe comes in (middle of
>front).  To the right of it (drivers side) should be a port to hook up a
>vacuum hose.  As I recall on my '81 307, there was a lot of shit hooked-up
>to that port.  Unless the spliter is already there, you will have to t it
>off.  If you have something else hooked up there, then get a T-split and
>hook up both.  On my '76 455 carb, the air-cleaner hooks up on the left
>port, so go figure.  Try the right first, cause on the '81 307 carb
>(probable closer to yours), the left is used for distributor, and I don't
>think you should mess with that.  Try the right, then tell me.  When you
>hook-it-up, fire it up (cold) and look.  The Thermac plate should stay
>closed unless you floor the pedal.  When it warms up (really warms up) it
>should open.  Hook it up, if it works drive for 15 mins., then open the hood
>(while it runs) and look.  If it is still closed, push the throttle 1/4 down
>and look, if still closed, no good.  Let me know.  Igor.
>
>igor455@home.com
>
>Igor Todorovic, UofC, Calgary, Alberta
>1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
>1981 Regency 98 (307/2004r/propane)
>1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)
>
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 00:23:10 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Heating/AC

OK, this info comes from owning an '84 (the good, first one, not the
current problem child), but it MAY be the same...

Same thing was happening, you turn the levers, and nothing happens.  I took
the head unit (the box with the sliding levers) out of the dash, and
there's this white plastic circle thing with holes in it that's hooked up
to some kind of gearing attached to the fan speed lever, or possibly the
level that controls what function you want AC/Heater to do (I _think_, this
was quite some time ago).  Anyway, this white plastic circle with holes is
held against this other piece of stationary white plastic with (memory...a
single hole in it) by a clip, and as you adjust the levers, this circle
turns against the other piece, causing vacuum to flow into different holes
on the circle (we are REALLY being precise here, eh?).

What had happened was the clip had broke, so the circle was no longer being
held flush against the other piece, meaning you could adjust the levers
'till you were blue in the face and it would accomplish exactly nothing.
All I had to do was go to this REALLY cheesy used parts place and get just
the plastic assembly (as I recall, you couldn't replace just the clip).

This may not be the root of your problem at all, but maybe...

At 11:43 PM 10/22/98 , you wrote:
>Chris Brown wrote:
>
>> I am trying to get my heater to work properly, but the levers that work the
>> vents and the hot cold so not do the job they are supposed to do, I noticed
>> a whole plate of vaccuum spaghetti under the dash hooked to these, but they
>> all seam to be intact, is there supposed to be a line running from the
>> engine to the firewall, and where on the firewall is it supposed to go to?
>> Any vaccuum diagrams that I have do not show this, and the only place I
know
>> of that supplys enough vaccuum to necessitate lines is the motor.
>
>
>
>Chris,
>
>You are correct in that the vacuum source for the heater,
>A/C,
>and vents is from the engine.
>There is a vacuum tank located on the firewall that has
>a hose connected to the intake manifold.  And from the tank
>another hose passes through the firewall to the plate of
>spaghetti.
>This is the vacuum supply source for the dash control
>panel.
>If it is not connected, none of the vents for A/C or heater
>will
>operate.
>
>
>Greg Rollin
>Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
>503-244-8249
>http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
>E-mail: supercars@transport.com
>
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 00:48:25 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: TherMac Mk II

>So when the Thermac is CLOSED, then air from that accordian-looking black
>intake hose (cold air) is NOT being let into the carb, and when the Thermac
>is OPEN, then air from the hose IS being let in?  Is this correct?

Yes!  Black hose from front of car to air-cleaner is cold air hose.  Plate
closed, no cold air.  Plate open, cold air.

> Or is it CLOSED = HOT AIR, OPEN = COLD AIR?


Yes, this one.

When you are looking at the thermac take the black accordion hose off (out
of the car).  Only after the Thermach is working plug this back in.  (you
don't really need the black hose, it only helps when hot outside so cold air
needed.  Here in Calgary, I don't even use this cause it is too cold).
Anyway, when the plate is on CLOSED (cold engine), it closes off the cold
air coming in and also on the bottom (where the hot air comes from exhaust
manifold) it opens a little valve to let the hot air come it (that way when
plate OPEN, no hot air).  I had the exact same problem as you.  Someone
before me unplugged the Thermac.  I had no black accordion hose, but even so
when the car was cold it would stall if I try to go to soon, or hesitate.
After the Thermach was plugged back in, warm-ups were faster and car
hesitated less.  Don't forget, if your Thermach does not work properly and
your engine is cold (or even hot for that matter), then the below freezing
air that comes in (during winter) to the carb can freeze the fuel and stall
the car.  If you live in climate where temps get below freezing in winter,
take the Black Accordion hose OFF until spring.  It will help the car run a
little better in the winter.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 06:28:40 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Re: Heating/AC

>I am trying to get my heater to work properly, but the levers that work the
>vents and the hot cold so not do the job they are supposed to do, I noticed
>a whole plate of vaccuum spaghetti under the dash hooked to these, but they
>all seam to be intact, is there supposed to be a line running from the
>engine to the firewall, and where on the firewall is it supposed to go to?
>Any vaccuum diagrams that I have do not show this, and the only place I know
>of that supplys enough vaccuum to necessitate lines is the motor.

Chris,

From the sound of your post I'm assuming (never a very accurate method of
obtaining facts;) that you don't have a 1972 Oldsmobile Chassis Service
Manual.

Don't know what your financial situation is, but I think for this type of
dilemma and a zillion more that are bound to come up an investment of about
$40-50 (I'm guessing at current price) in a manual would be worth it's
weight in gold.  For instance, the entire heating/AC system is explained
and diagramed and that includes vacuum, electrical, cables... you name it.
Look around in the manual and you'll see a vacuum reservoir canister, where
it mounts on the firewall and then where it hooks onto the manifold.

You can get the 1972 Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual from somebody like:

a) Al Sandy  @ 609-858-0248
b) Bob Johnson @ 800-334-0688
c) Faxon's @ 800-458-2734

There are others, look in Hemmings.  I've had good experience with each of
the above.

hope this helps,

jp

Jonathan Parke
mailto:jonparke@together.net

'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
(near the end of a 5 year frame off customization)

'60 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider Veloce
(completely in pieces, perfect body, long term restoration)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 07:46:24 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Ads

Some guy is selling full page Olds ads for $7.00 each, mounted.  He said to
post with needs.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, October 22, 1998 10:10 PM
Subject: Re: Olds Ads


>what's this about 66 toro and 98 convert  peter....
>
>will try and get n'letter out next week     jeff...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 09:00:55 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: KNOCKING TRANNY

Don't know if this helps or not, but I just replaced my original intake
manifold with an edelbrock performer and re-adjusted rochester q-jet. Before i
did this I had a knock everytime I put it into drive. Since this conversion
the car runs much smoother and the knock has disappeared. Maybe it's a carb
adjustment?  Just an observation.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 06:01:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Heating/AC

Chris,

I also had the same problem that you did on my 69 Cutlass "S". But, I
found this place called "Automobilia" that specializes in shop
manuals, owners manuals, sales brochures, paint chips, and license
tags. They are out of Jacksonville, FL. I believe that my manual was
about $62 with S&H, but like Jon says, it is well worth it's weight in
gold! Their phone/fax # is (904)737-8600. They have a toll free number
of (800)997-7998. The owners name is Leon Silke. Give em a call
sometime. Maybe they can find something for ya! Good luck!

Del




- ---Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net> wrote:
>
> >I am trying to get my heater to work properly, but the levers that
work the
> >vents and the hot cold so not do the job they are supposed to do, I
noticed
> >a whole plate of vaccuum spaghetti under the dash hooked to these,
but they
> >all seam to be intact, is there supposed to be a line running from
the
> >engine to the firewall, and where on the firewall is it supposed to
go to?
> >Any vaccuum diagrams that I have do not show this, and the only
place I know
> >of that supplys enough vaccuum to necessitate lines is the motor.
>
> Chris,
>
> From the sound of your post I'm assuming (never a very accurate
method of
> obtaining facts;) that you don't have a 1972 Oldsmobile Chassis
Service
> Manual.
>
> Don't know what your financial situation is, but I think for this
type of
> dilemma and a zillion more that are bound to come up an investment
of about
> $40-50 (I'm guessing at current price) in a manual would be worth it's
> weight in gold.  For instance, the entire heating/AC system is
explained
> and diagramed and that includes vacuum, electrical, cables... you
name it.
> Look around in the manual and you'll see a vacuum reservoir
canister, where
> it mounts on the firewall and then where it hooks onto the manifold.
>
> You can get the 1972 Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual from somebody
like:
>
> a) Al Sandy  @ 609-858-0248
> b) Bob Johnson @ 800-334-0688
> c) Faxon's @ 800-458-2734
>
> There are others, look in Hemmings.  I've had good experience with
each of
> the above.
>
> hope this helps,
>
> jp
>
> Jonathan Parke
> mailto:jonparke@together.net
>
> '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
> (near the end of a 5 year frame off customization)
>
> '60 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider Veloce
> (completely in pieces, perfect body, long term restoration)
>
>
>
>
>

==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass "S"
1986 Honda Accord DX

_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 06:18:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: IROC Cutlass Spotted!

I agree! I wanna see pics! :-) Sounds like a sweet car!




- ---Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net> wrote:
>
> Mark Tupper wrote:
>
> > Just got back in from an all too brief viewing of Gary Couse's
"Quincy". He
>
> Ok.  Where are the pics at?
>
> --
> Chris Sparks
> 68 442 SC - Frosty
> 68 442 HT - Scarlet
> 68 442 HT - Saffron
> 82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
> http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada
>

==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass "S"
1986 Honda Accord DX

_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 08:39:14 +0000
From: MB0 <MB0@americancentury.com>
Subject: Best body filler choices

I just received my fenders from the body shop after having patch panels
fabricated to replace the rust behind the wheels. I've ground the weld,
but still need to do the finishing work on them. Does anyone have a
recommendation on the best body filler to use for smoothing out the
rough areas within the weld? The guy at the body shop mentioned a
waterproof green body filler.

Thanks!
Mike Baugher
69 Cutlass S convertible
mb0@americancentury.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 06:39:19 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Heating/AC

> I am trying to get my heater to work properly, but the levers
> that work the vents and the hot cold so not do the job they are
> supposed to do

Okay, I read all the responses on this to date and I suggest you
tackle it in this order, taking the simplest and most likely
first, then working into the complicated stuff later:

1) There's no vacuum to operate the system. (Duh.  :-) Check under
the hood to find the hoses others have described: there's a vacuum
reservoir/amplifier, usually a black plastic sphere in the vicinity
of the A/C evaporator around the right-side hood hinge. Check for
loose or broken vacuum lines. If you have a vacuum pump or gauge,
tap into a line under the hood and see if you have vacuum in the
system at all with the engine idling.

2) I'd say there's a good chance you will find Something Bad under
the hood which needs correcting. If you don't, you may well have a
broken distribution valve on the back of the dash control panel,
especially if any mysterious little broken spring clips have been
found on the carpet recently; the retainer clip holding the rubber
rotary valve disk to the plastic backing plate tends to break and
fall apart, or else the rubber disk gets so perished that it leaks
like a sieve anyway. This is true of the later '70's-'80's cars
although I don't know if this design is definitely used on the '72;
someone else here can tell us. As of a couple years ago, GM was still
stocking the valve assembly for something like $9.

3) You could conceivably have messed-up vacuum lines in the spaghetti
under the dash, but unless someone has deliberately ripped them out,
I doubt it. If they are screwed up, you're going to need a manual for
sure to sort that all out.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 10:00:38 -0500
From: "Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
Subject: Re: How many manufactured?

>
>On my brother's behalf, I will be more specific if that helps-- I would
>like to know "How many 1987 Oldmobile 442 (with T-tops) were
>manufactured in total?"
>

I know this one! In 1987, 4208 Olds 442 were made. Of those, reportedly
1,111 had T-Tops. Now, if someone has info on how many came with sunroofs,
I'd be interested in that.

- -Mark Tupper  1987 442    (OCA #30666)
mtupper@palacenet.net        http://cyberglyphs.com/442/
Olds G-Body Mailing List        http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 07:36:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Best body filler choices

The only thing that i have ever used is BONDO.  There are a bunch of
different types for different applications.  It has worked for me in
the past, It works well for smoothing out rough spots, but I wouldn't
use it to fill big holes, as all it takes is a good whack from a
kicked up rock to knock it out (this happened on the bottom of my
fenders where I basically built fender bottoms out of the stuff.)
There are probably better products out there, but for what I've used
it for, it worked well.

Just my less that 2 cents
Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe




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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 09:49:46 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: Ticka Ticka (was somethin else)

>Are all pushrods for a given motor available in one length only, or can
>they be had in different lengths?

All are available in different lengths.  'Tis the way to adjust
"non-adjustable" valve train.

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 07:53:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: PERFORMANCE

  As far as I know, If you want to increase HP, you're gonna have to
use more gas.  It's kind of like wanting to "have your cake and eat it
too".  I don't thing it's possible to get higher HP with lower fuel
consumption.  Actually, now that I think of it, I think a better
flowing exhaust and intake could increase HP and use the same amount
of gas, just burns it more completely and efficiently.  As far as a
chip, I think they mainly just allow the engine to reach a higher rpm.
 Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe




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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 11:22:39 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Date:	Fri, 23 Oct 1998 11:22:39 -0400

unsubscribe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 08:56:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Blower Motor Wiring

Well, all of this talk about the heater controls and such lead me to
another parts question. On my 69 Cutlass "S" the guy I bought it from
had cut out the heater controls to put in some gauges. I think that
"STUPIDITY" was his first name! he, he, he! Anyways, I replaced that
whole bottom section of the dash, but now I am missing the wiring
harness that is suppose to run from the blower switch to the motor.
Also, I believe that I am missing the wires that connect to the small
switches attatched to the temp. arm of the hot/cold slide. Are those
wires a part of that harness? I am thinking that they would be used to
tell the AC compressor to kick on or if the person wants heat. Am I
right to assume this?

Thanks,
Del




==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass "S"
1986 Honda Accord DX

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 11:13:54 -0600
From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@interaccess.com>
Subject: Re: KNOCKING TRANNY

Frank Montero wrote:
>
> WHENEVER I SHIFT INTO DRIVE I GET A KNOCKING SOUND. IT'S REAL AGGRAVATING.
> IT ONLY DOES THIS IN DRIVE. CAN ANYONE  TELL ME WHAT THIS COULD BE?????????
Frank,
  Had a similar problem with my 86 442 a few years ago...turned out one
tranny mount was broken...shift into gear and the whole tranny would
shift from the torque (no comments, please...) and cause a "clunk".  I
don;t know why it owuld happen only in drive though...mine happened in
drive or reverse.
HTH..
- --
- ---Matt
Chicago, IL

- --------------------------------------------------------
mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
- --------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 13:10:14 -0400
From: Brian Kerr <bkerr@golden.net>
Subject: Re: Best body filler choices

MB0 wrote:

> .... Does anyone have a recommendation on the best body filler to use for
> smoothing out the rough areas within the weld? The guy at the body shop
> mentioned a waterproof green body filler.

He is probably referring to short strand fibreglass body filler made by
Marglass or Evercoat (and others too I guess). I have used it on my truck
and convertible. It is more waterproof than 'Bondo' but harder to work
with. Finish body lines should be done with a premium body filler like
Evercoat Rage, something that is a 'premium, lightweight, non clogging
filler'. For the best protection, some recommend priming the bare metal
area with an epoxy primer, filling with fibreglass filler to protect the
welded area, bringing area up to body lines with premium filler, then
sealing area again with epoxy primer before using urethane primer surfacer
for finish work. Final putty work should be done with 2 part polyester. I
followed this method with my Cutlass conv, but went the cheap route on the
truck (fibreglass filler, bondo, laquer primer, single stage putty) and the
difference is noticeable both in the extra work and the finished product.
More expensive products used more steps, but required less work to yield a
better job. Cheaper stuff shrinks and shows up sanding scratches later. 2
part epoxy and urethane primers and putty do not shrink like laquer primer
and single stage putty.

1983 F 150 4X4
1969 Cutlass S Conv
1986 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 12:25:23 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: KNOCKING TRANNY

Check for loose torque convertor bolds. While you're under the car,
check for loose flywheel (starter gear) bolts.

- --
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 13:19:51 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: DOH!!!  was: Break SOM! + Q's

Oh, ...Brakes on...     sorry!

So anyway.
Karl off work at 7:00am and does some refreshing Oldsmobiling over the
interstate to his Chi-town abode.
A breif pause at the new and spare parts depot (same locale) and off to the
mech's to present them with SOM a scant 10-15 minutes after they open. Request
they install the last shock absorber (have had part but was loathe to wait
about during daylight hours for them to do job), and have a gander at the
drivers rear brake drum.

And Karl lols about after walking home reading and writing Emails (don't
fiddle with that adjusting screw Matt!) to various people. 4 hours later get
call and go fetch SOM.

Shock on.

But.

Shoe grab is caused be diff oil leaking past seal.
Attempts at installing new seal failed because......

The axle tube is out of round!
Seal cannot seat/seal properly.

DOH!!!

So, Karl needs a rear axle for SOM.

This is not a catastrophe!
Karl still has 3-5 "virtual" parts cars at ~moderate~ driving distances from
him.
One in South Beloit (not positive that there IS a rear axle on), one further
north (but a Holiday model), and a Celeb Sedan and two Delta 88's just north
of Peoria.

Last three got Rears on.
A Delta rear might be better, more likely to be anti-spin or a higher gearing.
Only real prob is that at the Peoria place, REALLY tough to get to cars.
Lotsa clambering and scrambling UP hills.
'Course, since Karl definitely buying, probably get ~conveyed~ as far as
possible and aided in retrieval.

So, any caveats about axles lying fallow but under load for years?

And: Will other 1965-67 rears definitely bolt on?

Will shy away from Jetstar-88, smaller in general.

OK, not driving no more today.
<Psssht!>
<Clink, clink, bla-blurp>
<blup-blup-blup>

(Karl three-fisting!)

BTW Karl will probably not be avail for RT or ICQ until mebbe 2am central time
Saturday when usually a ICQ chat with the Oldsmagnet occurs.

Thanks all!

SOM

&KA
ICQ #20414415
http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 13:19:43 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Front Cover Install was: Oil pan sealage

In a message dated 98-10-22 14:50:36 EDT, you write:

<< It's also important not to tighten down the oil pan until you at least get
the front cover back on the dowl pins. There is no way you can get the cover
and seal back on if the oil pan is securely bolted down. >>

It can be done!

It just sucks!

Karl did this after a timing chain swap.
Pan never left motor.
Motor never left mounts.

With the seal (~properly~ trimmed and) attached to the cover (as the rubber
"pins" will stay in the holes in the channel) you must compress the seal
against the lip of the oil pan, and then move the top of the cover towards the
block while maintaining force on the cover to keep the seal compressed.

Realize that at a specific point when the top of the front cover gets
appreciably close to the engine block, the seal will tend to slide forward off
of the oil pan sealing surface!

That sucks!

Here is where dexterity or an extra set of hands come in handy.

As soon as possible, start one of the lowest nuts on bolt threads projecting
through the front cover as you muscle it on. As soon as possible, as low as
possible.

As you continue to muscle the cover on (keep the force up!) also continue to
turn the nut and start others. Until the top of the front cover is very close
to being seated (front cover nearly perpendicular to ground), you are not out
of the woods.

Kinda tough for about 20 mins, but beats the hell out of disconnecting and
raising the motor, dropping the pan........

SOM

&KA
ICQ #20414415
http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:10:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: Itatt4u2@webtv.net (Corey A. Cassell)
Subject: 1964 F-85

I've just recieved a 64 F-85 cutlas. I Know that it has a 330 Rocket,
but my question is does it or did it come with aluminum heads?????

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:17:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: Itatt4u2@webtv.net (Corey A. Cassell)
Subject: 1964 F-85

            I also have the vin number....
      its   824  B  003468..... this may help some...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:23:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: Itatt4u2@webtv.net (Corey A. Cassell)
Subject: Re: 1964 F-85

- --WebTV-Mail-769602166-4043
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit

I've gotten a 64 F-85 Cutlas with the vin #           824  B
003468..... I was enterested in wondering if the 330 Rocket had aluminum
heads?????HELP









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1998 11:17:51 -0700 (PDT) X-WebTV-Signature: 1
	ETAtAhUAsHJuChE8yY04PwHtuBiR9k9OZ88CFFo5TOd1B4kW2oBowxnkaHk69q6i From:
Itatt4u2@webtv.net (Corey A. Cassell) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:17:51 -0400
(EDT) To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Subject: 1964 F-85 Message-ID:
<275-3630C84F-6550@mailtod-121.bryant.webtv.net> Content-Type: Text/Plain;
Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV)
X-Orcpt: rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h
chebucto.ns.ca oldsmobile-mml" Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
Precedence: bulk Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

            I also have the vin number....
      its   824  B  003468..... this may help some...









- --WebTV-Mail-769602166-4043--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:28:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: Itatt4u2@webtv.net (Corey A. Cassell)
Subject: ????????

       I have a 1964 F-85 Cutlas and I was wanting to know who I could
talk to about it ....     if anyone would like to discuss it e-mail me

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 12:30:59 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: 1964 F-85

Just looked it up on Drew's VIN decoder:
8=V8
2=F-85 Cutlass
4=1964
B=Baltimore, MD
003468=Unique number that I thought started at 100001.


Corey A. Cassell wrote:
>
>             I also have the vin number....
>       its   824  B  003468..... this may help some...

- --

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.23p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 12:35:01 -0600 (MDT)
From: Timothy Hall <hallt@athena.csdco.com>
Subject: Whitewalls

Looking for 1.5" (not really very wide) whitewalls for 15" rims.
Preferable size, 235-75R-15. Can't find anything but 1/2" whites from
local tire companies or 2"-3" (expensive) ones from Coker and the like.
Thought of buffing but that leaves a ragged look. Does anyone have any
suggestions, have any such tires you want to sell, etc?

Tim Hall
Denver
'57 J2 Rocket
'67 Cutlass 455

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:42:30 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Whitewalls

In a message dated 10/23/98 1:37:14 PM EST, hallt@athena.csdco.com writes:

<< Looking for 1.5" (not really very wide) whitewalls for 15" rims.
 Preferable size, 235-75R-15 >>
Try coker or cooper Blems. Prolly won't be able to see the diff and the $ will
be a whole lot less.
Bruce

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:46:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: Itatt4u2@webtv.net (Corey A. Cassell)
Subject: ??????

    My F-85 has some weird numbers also on the ID plate on the
firewall... I could only look up some of the numbers but year one
couldn't help me that much...if I send out those numbers could someone
help, if so e-mail me,PLEASE...


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 20:54:58 +0200
From: hezzo <442@swipnet.se>
Subject: pics442 -70

New to the list.
pics of my 442.
 http://hem2.passagen.se/hezzo/Index.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:01:15 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: testing non-thermal fan clutch

I have my cooling system apart & have just bought new water pump & radiator
('68 S 350).  In the interest of trying to save a few bucks, would like to
know if anyone can tell me a way to check non-thermal type fan clutch while
it is off the car.

thnx

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 11:50:23 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: 1964 F-85

At 02:10 PM 10/23/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I've just recieved a 64 F-85 cutlas. I Know that it has a 330 Rocket,
>but my question is does it or did it come with aluminum heads?????
>

the 330 didn't have aluminum heads

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 11:57:06 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Front Cover Install was: Oil pan sealage

>
>Here is where dexterity or an extra set of hands come in handy.
>
>
it also helps if you atach the water pump to the front cover
(with just the self tapping screws). this way you can use the pump as a handle
and have one hand free to do other stuff. :)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:18:04 -0500
From: "Tracy H. Shires" <twodogs@ou.edu>
Subject: HeadBolt torque???

UGGHH.. I left my mondello tech book at the wrong house..
Can someone tell how much torque to put on the headbolts. I have arp bolts,
and mondello's manual gives a slightly different number for em..

Thanks for your help

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:49:27 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: FW: Rance EFI

This guys's interested in the Rance EFI systems for 455's and 403's first
installed in the GMC motorhomes.  I don't have a clue...so forwarding.

His e-mail address is given.  Thanks.

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From:	T-n-J [SMTP:nhzlv@pensys.com]
Sent:	Friday, October 23, 1998 12:26 PM
To:	jadcock@vt.edu
Subject:	Re: Rance EFI
Importance:	High

I am not on the Olds or G-Body list at home, can you blast it out on the lists
to see if anyone has any experience with these Olds powered mammoths?  They
held the 455 on as long as they could but they eventually had to make way for
the 403 for 77 and 78 when the GMC Motorhome went extinct.  I never knew these
were front wheel drive until my friend made me stick my head under one!  They
are the biggest Toro known to man!  Slightly different sheet metal <g>.

Tom

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 15:31:36 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: HeadBolt torque???

Tracy H. Shires wrote:
>
> UGGHH.. I left my mondello tech book at the wrong house..
> Can someone tell how much torque to put on the headbolts. I have arp bolts,
> and mondello's manual gives a slightly different number for em..
>
> Thanks for your help

It says 7/16" get 85 lbs
ARP 90lbs
and 1/2" get 130 lbs
ARP 30 lbs
BUT
"if using ARP Moly Assembly Lube, torque value will be less, check ARP
specifications before tightening."

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 15:32:04 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1964 F-85

In a message dated 98-10-23 14:14:41 EDT, you write:

<< I've just recieved a 64 F-85 cutlas. I Know that it has a 330 Rocket,
 but my question is does it or did it come with aluminum heads????? >>

No, no aluminium Cylinder heads.

Most likely the original heads would have a large "1" on the left-most edge of
the head. Possibly a "1A".

The 330 is likely to be iron with high nickel content (good) with iron
cylinder heads.

To be honest, Karl beleives that even the 215cid aluminium block had iron
cylinder heads.

However, if you are not satisfied with the current Cyl heads, you may be able
to bolt on any modern-type small block Olds cyl heads! From "5" to "5A".


SOM

&KA
ICQ #20414415
http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 15:34:22 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Rear axle compatibility.

Will a 1970 full-size Olds rear axle be fully compatible to "swap out" a 1965
full sizes axle???

Thanks.

SOM

&KA
ICQ #20414415
http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 15:44:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: Itatt4u2@webtv.net (Corey A. Cassell)
Subject: Re: Rear axle compatibility.

- --WebTV-Mail-1180695134-1266
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit

indeed it will ... i put a 72 rear-end in a 64









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Message-ID:
<595235a7.3630da3e@aol.com> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 15:34:22 EDT To:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Mime-Version: 1.0 Subject: Rear axle compatibility.
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Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

Will a 1970 full-size Olds rear axle be fully compatible to "swap out" a 1965
full sizes axle???

Thanks.

SOM

&KA
ICQ #20414415
http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

- --WebTV-Mail-1180695134-1266--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 15:41:17 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 1964 F-85

To be honest, Karl beleives that even the 215cid aluminium block had iron
cylinder heads.
________

Nope.  All aluminum.  You are thinking of the Vega motor, which did have an
aluminum block and iron head.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 16:05:02 EDT
From: ChazToone@aol.com
Subject: '71 Contvertible

Looking for information on how to replace the convertible top locks (latches?)
on a 1971 Cutlass Supreme.  While I'm on the subject of ragtops, I've noticed
that the molding around the top, where the boot slips under, seems to be
getting loose.  Any suggestions for tightening??

ChazToone@aol.com

'71 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 16:17:34 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Karl: 2-jets

Aren't my carb and your carb the same?

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 13:23:57 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Rear axle compatibility.

Karl,
If memory serves, you're looking for Big Car rear axles from 65-70. I think
in 71 Olds went to a different Ujoint design. I'd guess that makes it a
generational change. Earlier years are more desirable in my experience as in
the later years (say 68 and later...) they had a lot more freeway gears as
opposed to off the line gears like 3.08's and 3.23's. If you're lucky you'll
get a 3.08. I've never seen a 3.23, but I currently have a 2.73 in my 98
(and don't like it...) with a spare 3.08 ring&pinion waiting to go in at
some point. I'm also hoarding a spare Axle for each side, but I tossed the
housing, sorry.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: KarlAune@aol.com [mailto:KarlAune@aol.com]
> Sent: Friday, October 23, 1998 12:34 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Rear axle compatibility.
>
>
> Will a 1970 full-size Olds rear axle be fully compatible to
> "swap out" a 1965
> full sizes axle???
>
> Thanks.
>
> SOM
>
> &KA
> ICQ #20414415
> http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
> http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 16:25:01 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: free intake manifold

In a message dated 10/23/98 3:05:09 PM EST, postmaster@chebucto.ns.ca writes:

<< I've just replaced the intake manifold on my 350 and was wondering what to
do
 with the original. I can't think of a good reason to keep it, but I can't
 throw out a perfectly good original part. So if anyone can use it, e-mail me
 directly. If you can arrange to get it, there's no charge.
 Bruce
 75 Delta 88 conv. >>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 16:26:43 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rear axle compatibility.

In a message dated 98-10-23 15:46:53 EDT, you write:

<<  i put a 72 rear-end in a 64 >>

Uh, a 1973 rear axle in a 1964 what model?

SOM

&KA
ICQ #20414415
http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 16:18:45 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: HeadBolt torque???

In a message dated 98-10-23 15:26:30 EDT, you write:

<< and 1/2" get 130 lbs
 ARP 30 lbs >>

Whoa!

What is so special about ARP that they get 100# less torque than normal 1/2"
bolts?

SOM

&KA
ICQ #20414415
http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 16:41:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: Itatt4u2@webtv.net (Corey A. Cassell)
Subject: Re: Rear axle compatibility.

- --WebTV-Mail-506951281-4100
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit

i  haven't actually put it in but its a 70-72 olds cutlas  and its going
into a 64 F-85... my mechanic said it would bolt right up...should i
find another rear end or will it work????









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<1b3f71c5.3630e683@aol.com> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 16:26:43 EDT To:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Mime-Version: 1.0 Subject: Re: Rear axle
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In a message dated 98-10-23 15:46:53 EDT, you write:

<<  i put a 72 rear-end in a 64 >>

Uh, a 1973 rear axle in a 1964 what model?

SOM

&KA
ICQ #20414415
http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

- --WebTV-Mail-506951281-4100--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 16:49:44 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Karl's Reply to Matt: 2-Jets!

In a message dated 98-10-23 16:23:21 EDT, you write:

<< Aren't my carb and your carb the same? >>

If you mean our 2-jets (the one from your 350 and the one on my 425), then not
neccesarily (sp?).

(did this need to be public?)

As Karl mentioned on two different occasions in past few weeks, there were
many variants on the 2-Jet. 6 different venturii sizes and 2 different
throttle plate sizes. Older (smaller) throttle plate was one venturii size
[according to Roe!!]. The Other 5 venturii sizes are all the same size
throttle plate.

The real difference between venturii sizes is the intended vacc drop at the
nozzle, or rather, how the venturi ~shape~ magnifies the vacc signal for
optimal vacc at the discharge nozzles.

From Roe:
1 & 1/4" flange...

1 & 1/2" flange, 1 &11/16 throttle bore
1 & 3/16 venturii  =   352   cfm
1 &  1/4  venturii   =  381   cfm
1 &  5/16 venturii  =  423   cfm
1 &  3/8  venturii  =  435    cfm

Now it is, from an aeshetic standpoint, downright painful for me to listen to
my carb wheeze air in, but I would hope that mine is the 1 & 3/8" venturii
model.

As Karl mentioned on Rocket Talk, he would be interested in locating a 1972 or
thereabouts Q-Jet with ~integral~ choke.

SOM

&KA
ICQ #20414415
http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 18:25:25 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Fr*e Intake Manifold

The word "Fr*e" (i.e. no charge) in the subject line caused this one to
bounce... forwarding.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: fr*e intake manifold

<< I've just replaced the intake manifold on my 350 and was wondering what to
do
 with the original. I can't think of a good reason to keep it, but I can't
 throw out a perfectly good original part. So if anyone can use it, e-mail me
 directly. If you can arrange to get it, there's no charge.
 Bruce
 75 Delta 88 conv. >>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 17:35:09 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Rear axle compatibility.

i  haven't actually put it in but its a 70-72 olds cutlas  and its going
into a 64 F-85... my mechanic said it would bolt right up...should i
find another rear end or will it work????
_________

Uh, people, could we focus please?  One thread was discussing swapping
axles in full size cars, and now we're talking about A-body cars.  There's
a big difference.

Also, in reference to the specific case noted above, while you will be able
to physically bolt a 68-72 axle to a 64-67 frame, there are a few problems.
First, the 68-72 axles are about an inch wider than the early axles.
Second, the 64-67 cars have slightly different attach locations on the
housing for the upper control arms; if you bolt in a later axle the pinion
angle will be wrong, resulting in vibration and U-joint problems.  Third,
the 64-66 axles use a different lower spring perch than the 67-72 axles
(which makes 67 a one-of-a-kind year - early style axle with later style
spring perches).  In this case, you'd need to use 67 springs, which will
fit a 64-66 frame with the 67 axle.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 15:09:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tammy Isham <tammyi@rocketmail.com>
Subject: [none]

Hi Everybody,
I hope this message reach everyone of you doing well.
 I have a new email address.  It is
joy2day@internetx.net.  Please take note of it if you
like.  Take care of yourselves.

Tammy


===
Tammy Isham
email:  tammyi@rocketmail.com


It does me no injury for my neighbor to say there are
twenty gods
or no God.  It neither picks my pocket nor breaks my
leg.
- -- Thomas Jefferson



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 18:27:28 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Whitewalls

Go to www.tirenet.com .  A friend of mine got decent 2 inch whitewalls for
his '54 Super 88 droptop from these people for something like $65 apiece.
Nice, quiet radials.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 17:42:14 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Daytona under the lights, 8:00

wasn't going to reply to the list but it was taken out of context. I used
to race for a LIVING, it was a joke, meaning "I wonder if the Kid would be
as fast after a good bump" which I have had, and most drivers have had. NO
ONE wants to seen a person or equip. torn up, damn sure NOT the driver.
Still have my USAC, NHRA, IHRA, and AHRA pro licenses. Not an apology, just
an explanation. I've already paid my dues!
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
- ----------
> From: KS7RACING@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Daytona under the lights, 8:00
> Date: Thursday, October 22, 1998 9:34 PM
>
> Ron,
>
> Thanks for pointing that out (crashes being the last thing on a
fan's/driver's
> mind), so many times here in Kansas City the only times the local
stick-and-
> ball yappers (sportscasters) mention racing is when someone gets hurt.
For
> teams like us, out there looking for people to sponsor our racing
efforts,
> lack of media exposure is a big problem.
>
> Take Care,
> Ken Snyder
> Kansas City, Kansas
> ks7racing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 16:43:00 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Can I make a 455 out of a G block 400?

Dumb question time.

	Since the 455 and the later 400 engines share the same
stroke, can I just bore my 400 out to 455?  The 400 is a G
block with the F2 code on the back.  I thought I read
somewhere in the FAQ that you could bore this block out to
4.125" without sonic testing.

	I have a freshly honed '70 455 F engine with E heads that
the machine shop said should be bored.  I whined about the
high cost of pistons and they agreed that I could probably
get away with just honing it.  Since then I have started to
have my doubts about putting this together and probably
getting too much piston slap and loose fitting rings.

	One of the reasons I would like to bore the 400 out is then
I would have the correct letter code engine in my car,
right?  Since the 455 was not available in a plain 442 in
'69 the F block is a dead giveaway that something's been
done.

	And since I already paid to have the E heads re-done would
it be worth my while to have the 400's C heads done?  Is
there really much of a difference?

	Thanks in advance.  This list has renewed my interest in my
car.


- --

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.23p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 19:06:25 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: HeadBolt torque???

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 98-10-23 15:26:30 EDT, you write:
>
> << and 1/2" get 130 lbs
>  ARP 30 lbs >>
>
> Whoa!
>
> What is so special about ARP that they get 100# less torque than normal 1/2"
> bolts?
>

QUIET YOU! It was a typo, and you know it! :-)
- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 16:11:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: pics442 -70

- ---hezzo <442@swipnet.se> wrote:
>
> New to the list.
> pics of my 442.
>  http://hem2.passagen.se/hezzo/Index.htm
>
>
- -----Hi....Welcome to the list !! Nice car....noticed you had a link
to  "N Ga Junkyards....are you in Ga? If so contact me direct...Thanks
and again, welcome to the list.
        Later,
==
John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com
  ICQ # 16956740      Lithia Springs, Ga.
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 19:12:46 EDT
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Oldsmobile Screen Saver

Can somebody please send me the address for the Oldsmobile screen saver? I had
it, and then it got lost. Can anybody h*lp?
Thanks,
Jim McKeague
http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 16:32:24 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Can I make a 455 out of a G block 400?

Cliff Simpson wrote:


>         Since the 455 and the later 400 engines share the same
> stroke, can I just bore my 400 out to 455?  The 400 is a G
> block with the F2 code on the back.  I thought I read
> somewhere in the FAQ that you could bore this block out to
> 4.125" without sonic testing.



Cliff,
The maximum factory recommended oversize on the 400
is .060"  In order to fit standard 455 pistons, you
would need to remove .255" from the bore.  That's
just a bit more than a quarter of an inch.
There is simply not enough material in the bore
to remove that much.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1567
*********************************
