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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1520


oldsmobile-digest    Wednesday, September 30 1998    Volume 01 : Number 1520



Re: Car Alarms
solenoid trick -ain't mine (MORE)
Re: Hail Storm att Bruce
Not so fast, here: Re: F*rd solenoid trick -ain't so hot!
Re: '88 Cutlass Supreme Int.
Re: Non Posting
Re: '88 Cutlass Supreme Int.
RE: 1980? Cutlass Supreme
Re: ignition advance: more info out there?
Heads! What from?
Re: Non Posting
Re: 69 442 grilles
Re: 69 442 grilles
Anti-Football! + S/S job and SOM (Long!) was Grrrrrrrrr...............
Re: Joe (Buy a 455) Padavano
Re: Anti-Football! + S/S job and SOM (Long!) was Grrrrrrrrr...............
Find a 455 was: Joe (Buy a 455) Padavano
RT was: Oh, by the way...
Who's represented on 442.com?
Re: RT was: Oh, by the way...
Re: RT was: Oh, by the way...
1st at Springfield?? was: Everyone lists their cars
Re: 1980? Cutlass Supreme
A Ques. for Thomas Smith, and "My List" (was: Omega Help)
Re: Car Alarms
Re: F/S: Hallmark '69 H/O Ornaments
'99 calendar's
Re: 1980? Cutlass Supreme
Re: 70 Speaker Question
Re: Gross vs. Net Horsepower
Re: Joe (Buy a 455) Padavano
Re: '99 calendar's
Re: 5-speed Anything 80-88-RWD
Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)
Re: Car Alarms >>Kinda Long
Re: Joe (Buy a 455) Padavano
"OLD Junkyards"
Re: 69 442 grilles
Aftermarket Radio
Re: Car Alarms >>Kinda Long
Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)
Re: Find a 455 was: Joe (Buy a 455) Padavano
Re: Aftermarket Radio
FOR SALE '85 442
Re: 69 442 grilles
Re: Joe (Buy a 455) Padavano
Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)
Re: 1980? Cutlass Supreme
RE: 1980? Cutlass Supreme
Questions for Igor.was Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)
Re: Aftermarket Radio
Re: Joe (Buy a 455) Padavano
Last day
Re: 350 cid Cutlass update

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 10:30:55 -0500
From: "Robert Stoneham (EUS)" <EUSROBS@am1.ericsson.se>
Subject: Re: Car Alarms

Last year I installed the Crimestopper Rage II system in my CS in one
afternoon.  It was the only one I could find that needed NO extra relays and
other external stuff to make a very good system for my 86 CS. It has a wide
range of options (radar, pager, starter), but most everything you would want
is standard, such as, dual stage ELECTRONIC shock sensor with pre-warning
sound, door locking, starter kill, siren AND HORN, trunk release, cell
phone/stereo disable in Valet, Anti Carjack feature, interior light control,
and tons of other goodies.  All features are programmable and carries a
lifetime warranty.  Visit www.crimestopper.com <http://www.crimestopper.com>
for all the details on this system.  I got it for about  $140 at
Parts-express in Ohio (Mail order).  See www.parts-express.com
<http://www.parts-express.com>  for current prices.  Please contact me
directly if you have any other questions about this system. I think you and
other Olds owners will like it.  But bottom line is: PROTECT YOUR
INVESTMENT! We all have very desirable cars, and they can be easy to get
into. Some foolish kid tried to get mine in an apartment parking lot.  I
parked in front of the management/SECURITY office right under a very bright
light.   Therefore, it can happen anywhere, anytime, to ANYONE.  I would
recommend a steering column lock and good comprehensive insurance, as well.
I had a $50 dollar deductible, and the dealer paid that for me, along with
checking my A/C for free.  Why?  It took 2 months to get my car back due to
some hard to find parts.  (By the way, does anyone know how many non-tilt
steering columns were issued in this car?  I think the cruise control lever
and wiper switch were the problem parts.)

Robert S.
86 Cutlass Supreme 307 (MINT!)

robert.stoneham@ericsson.com <mailto:robert.stoneham@ericsson.com>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 10:40:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: solenoid trick -ain't mine (MORE)

To Mike Robe or Roger Schmidt


I claim no expertise here. Was simply reposting what seemed to be a thorough
explanation. Credited original author.

roger hitson

ps

Have done most of the stuff you said - new (clean) battery, new (clean)
cables, cleaned starter & solenoid, wrapped both in heat shielding, and
still have hot start problems at times. Haven't done the Ferd scheme yet,
but will eventually. Zactly why I saved somebody else's explanation. Makes
good sense to me to get the solenoid away from all that heat. And, as
somebody else said, it's worked for lotsa people. OTOH, maybe there's a
better way than the one I posted, ...............?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 11:46:50 EDT
From: Supafli50@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hail Storm att Bruce

As far as I know the insurance companies are covering the damage for cars.
And they are be pretty generous too.  I dont even think they can cancel you
because of an act of god either even if you have numerous claims.
Matt

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 11:46:40 EDT
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Not so fast, here: Re: F*rd solenoid trick -ain't so hot!

Roger Hitson, thanks for the resend.
____________________
This is for the list:

All that Roger Schmidt says about maintenance is good and true, but I'm not
sure about the most important point he is making, that is, about the solenoids
being wired in series, with all the problems that might bring.

It seems that the method given (by Joe???) jumped the GM solenoid out of the
circuit. I assumed that the Bendix gear would sling into position by servo
action from rotation of the starter. Is this the case? Or does the GM solenoid
still have to actuate? If it does, then adding an upstream solenoid does
nothing but cause extra current draw, as Schmidt sez.

Cheers/Carron

Here is a snip of Schmidt's post:

>>Joe says to hook up a solenoid in front of your GM solenoid to give you
better hot starting. Seems to me that your just giving yourself another
headache by doing this. As
soon as you turn that ignition key, number one solenoid fires down to number
two solenoid which then fires down to your starter. You've doubled your
solenoid draw on your battery and your starter has that much less current to
draw from the battery. >>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 11:53:06 EDT
From: Supafli50@aol.com
Subject: Re: '88 Cutlass Supreme Int.

I am the owner of the same car.  It has been great but with the usual
replacements of a alternator and struts etc.  The usual stuff the goes bad
after time.  Mine has 120,000 miles on it and still going.   Runs good and
will move if you want it too.
Matt
88 Olds Cutlass Supreme IE

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 11:59:02 EDT
From: LooseCanno@aol.com
Subject: Re: Non Posting

believe me, Lou - EVERYTHING you post gets to everyone on the list.  Trust me
on this one.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 12:06:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: Derek Douglas <derek@primeline.net>
Subject: Re: '88 Cutlass Supreme Int.

So yours has been growing strong too eh?  Yeah, we had to get the ball
joints and CV joint replaced after the ball joints rusted through.  Wheel
popped off the joint when I went around a corner.. Lucky thing I wasn't on
the highway.. =]  Well thanks for the reply..

TTYL

Derek Douglas
- ---------------
Prime-Line Communications
   derek@primeline.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 12:11:12 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: 1980? Cutlass Supreme

On Wednesday, September 30, 1998 11:15 AM, Jeff Herndon
[SMTP:jtherndon@webtv.net] wrote: > > I was at my mother-in-law's yesterday and
took a good look at what I > think is a 1980 Cutlass Supreme. (I know it's a 
CS,
just not sure of the > year.)

Easy way to tell the year of an early G-Body (okay, A-Body  :-).  If the rear 
is
particularly slanted, it's a '78-'80.  And, after you've decided that it's a
pre-'81, if the car has a flat front with 4 headlights, it's a
1980...otherwise, it's a 1978 or 1979.

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 08:53:03 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: ignition advance: more info out there?

not when both fire simultaneously I believe it was nissan that did this in
the eighties because of a detonation tendency the decided to give it a
cancelling sppark...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS <gjcouse@francomm.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, September 30, 1998 6:05 AM
Subject: RE: ignition advance: more info out there?


<Snip>

<>OK what is ping? It is the result of preignition the "ping" is
<>the collision
<>of two opposed flame fronts. preignition is the result of a
<>superheated area
<>of the combustion chamber or piston top thus igniting the flame
<>front on an
<>opposing angle to the primary flame front by reducing the ignition advance
<>the heat in the chamber is reduced by the action of "quench" when the heat
<>in the chamber is reduced the air fuel charge appears to be richer thus
<>"quenching" the hot spot thus endeth the lesson....kk

<Q>

Just a thought, What about dual spark plug setups. Doesn't that constitute a
dual flame front within a cylinder?

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
gjcouse@francomm.com

1986 Custom Cutlass Brougham = "Quincy"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 09:38:39 PDT
From: "Olds Omega" <oldsomega73@hotmail.com>
Subject: Heads! What from?

I'm probably going to head out to the yards this weekend to look for
some #5 or #7 heads, and (God helping) a nodular crank. (I already HAVE
one in my Monte SS, but I'm pretty sure that won't work, hehe) Anyway,
which cars am I looking to pull these from and which are BEST? Also what
is the best crank and where would that come from?  If I should happen to
come upon a full 70 350, should I just take the whole thing? (Costs $200
at yard I'm heading to for a full engine, unfortunatly it's makes a
normal junkyard seem like the Ritz but they have LOADS of cars, I even
found a turbo enigine for my 89 Omni, may she Rest in Pieces...)  Thanks
for any help.

Avery.
BTW These parts are going into a 73 350 Omega.




______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 12:40:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: Christopher Casteel <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Re: Non Posting

Yeah, 2,3, maybe 4 times (lately)...


>believe me, Lou - EVERYTHING you post gets to everyone on the list.  Trust me
>on this one.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 12:37:50 -0400
From: "Jim & Joanne Chermack" <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 69 442 grilles

Joe

    They are all originally silver.

Jim Chermack

- -----Original Message-----
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM <Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, September 29, 1998 9:59 PM
Subject: 69 442 grilles


>Thanks to all who responded privately to my comments/questions on the 442
>grilles and headlight doors, but I think you all misunderstood my comment.
>I was aware that they are silver and black, however I was commenting on the
>fact that _every_ used set I've bought (including the used headlight
>housing I got yesterday) have all been painted completely black by a
>previous owner.  I have to agree with Kerry, it does look cool (which is
>likely why the 69 H/Os _did_ come with these parts painted black), but I
>just found it amusing that it appears that _everyone_ has painted theirs
>black!  The same thing seems to go for used 70 442 grilles.  I have
>something like 2 1/2 complete sets (and several broken ones), and most of
>those had been painted black.
>
>As for my question on the color of the stone shield, I'm not talking about
>the hood tongue.  I'm refering to the horizontal metal shield that's
>between the inboard ends of the grilles, behind the center of the bumper.
>I got two responses, one said silver, one black.  Any other votes?
>
>Thanks to all
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 13:45:38 -0300
From: Wade M Hunt <wade.hunt@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: 69 442 grilles

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM  wrote:

> As for my question on the color of the stone shield, I'm not talking about
> the hood tongue.  I'm refering to the horizontal metal shield that's
> between the inboard ends of the grilles, behind the center of the bumper.
> I got two responses, one said silver, one black.  Any other votes?
>
> Thanks to all
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30
  HI. I have two 69 442`s. One I have been around since it was bought
new and one I bought in 1976.They both have black
there.wade.hunt@ns.sympatico.ca

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 12:43:21 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Anti-Football! + S/S job and SOM (Long!) was 
Grrrrrrrrr...............

I think the mention of SOM should account for a further readership of 20% or
more, especially among the digest people. SOM content at bottom.

KS writes:

[  I think some meagrely disparaging about motorsports made in jest... ]

<< Remember, it only takes one ball to play baseball, football, basketball, or
 (especially) golf................................. >>

Actually golf requires several balls which are used one at a time.

OTOH I am a huge rugby fan, having played right wing in college.

Perhaps because of this experience I imagined football played with TWO balls.

I think this originated with my first brush with the term "iron man" football,
which, of course means that the same 5 people play both OL and DL positions.

So, to make up your 11 men, you end up with one Center from each team on the
feild always, the rest of the O/DLinemen, the Quarterback (whose
abilities/restrictions are slightly different), and five other players whose
labels are much blurred as individuals of these five will play positions
similar to running back, fullback, tight end, wide reciever, linebacker,
conerback and safey.

Sound complicated?

Good.

Now the game should be played similar to football, except that each teams
playbook MUST consist of "read" plays, where each team MUST react to the
opposite teams play with some defensive adjustment.

This gives the term "a busted play" an entirely new dimention.

Of course the line of scrimmage has to be at a midpoint between the spot of
both balls............

Can we say "A Long Game!"

Olds content!

As alluded to in previous footers, (if anyone reads my posts :-)}   ) I had 4
springs and 3 shocks installed. Yes, three shocks.

On Friday I visited a new branch of a part store chain that I have found
knowlegeable people in previously - "Forest City Auto Parts". Although said
knowledge does vary greatly between individual stores.

Hmmmm I just had another Idea. But its too massive to include here. Next
post.... maybe.

Anyway at my local ROTM auto parts store, they carried Gabriels mostly with
some Edelbrocks for pick-ups. They had one of the parts catalogs hanging from
a wire so I looked up my application and saw that they made for Froont and
Rear  only in a low-end model...  But the fact that they were availale told me
much. I wanted Monroe anyway.

Pep Boys had Gabriels.... but rears only, no fronts in sock for SOM but could
get next day mebbe...

Karl was determined to do fronts first (tire wear if Y'all recall). So veto-ed
that ideer.

Onward....

Was on a route that would take me home whilst actively looking at the
storefronts in an attempt to spy ~any~ auto parts store that ~might~ have what
I wanted! whilst passing I aimed my eyeballs at the historical sight of what
was a branch of Giant Auto (went B-rupt or O-O-Biz) and what did Eye see?

"Forest City Auto Parts"

(Wahoo!)
((A branch of this chain sold me an oversized self-tapping inlet fitting for
my car the day after I heard of such a thing...."Yeah, we have several
sizes...."  !!!))
(((((((everyone else suggested a heli-coil (shudder))))))))

So I go in, tell him my app. and that it ain't in the 'puter, but am damn sure
it is in the book (because if it is in the Gabriel book....). So after he
hunts down the book, he finds tha part #s and has fronts in stock! Also a
nearby branch has 2 rears in inventory (store could be construed as on my way
home...) so Karl pays for 4 shocks at same store and gets "P/U slip" to
collect 2 at second store.

Fast forward 2+ hours.

Karl under SOM with jackstands and is still trying to unbolt the (damn! I am
most of the way through the Maker's Mark I bought on Monday!) rusty stabilizer
linkage on the drivers side when it occurs to him...

"Rrrrrrrrr."
- -or-

"Y'know...this would go much faster with an impact wrench. And on a lift....
Who do I know that has such a thing?"

So SOM goes to the mechs on Monday.
$260 with change back gets me an SOM with work done in the time it woulda
taken me to botch the job on one shock/spring set.

But one of rears was wrong shock part#.
(Mechs called as soon as they noticed - Karl likes these guys)

Monroe 5802 instead of 5820.

Once ruminated over, Karl figured that the mistake was prolly in an earlier
inventory check, causing the other branches computer to show "2". Found out
today that that was whut happened.

Ride height was improved by some 3" or more.

When Karl gets to work he takes his boots out of the trunk, opens left rear
door, sits down, takes boots out of the zip lock freezer bags ('cause I work
with Hazardous Waste) and swaps tennies for boots.

After the s/s work done, Karl noticed a significantly longer distance to feet
(on ground) from backseat!!

Figure this to be a gain in ride height of approx. 3" !!

Chassis manual says stock height (frame-ground) is 10"!

Uh- was mebbe 6" or 7" before!

Goovy!

SOM

&KA

Rugby - real men do not need pads!

Karl put 235/70r15 on the front tires just now.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 12:51:29 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Joe (Buy a 455) Padavano

In a message dated 98-09-29 22:02:59 EDT, you write:

<< On the other hand, if the price is right, I'm always looking to add to my
stockpile (hey, these _have_ been out of production for over 20 years!) >>

Dammit!

I did not think of that!

In the last IVOC newsletter, in the classified part of one page was [part..$$,
part..$$, art..$$] and 455 block only free. [!!!]

Karl thought about calling... but could hear parents gripe about alla car
parts (kept old shocks..and no, was a way to ensure that NEW shock boxes were
kept! Karl can get a $40 discount by sending in parts of the boxes....) and
tires and axle rods in the basement. Plus a bare block in a car with bad
springs/shocks would be a nighmare in transportation! Also: assumed that it
was a J block (or something wrong with it) if it was free.

Mebbe Karl call and see if gone....

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 11:55:33 -0500
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: Re: Anti-Football! + S/S job and SOM (Long!) was
Grrrrrrrrr...............

Just put 245/60/15 on the front of my car along with new springs.
Probably gained 3" or so in front end height. (yuck)
Wind has much more of an effect on the highway now.
Headers don't hit though...

>Brett
67 Cutlass convertible
442@oldsracing.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 12:59:20 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Find a 455 was: Joe (Buy a 455) Padavano

In a message dated 98-09-29 22:49:29 EDT, you write:

<< Got any tips on how to go about finding a garden variety 455 in good
working order?
 roger hitson >>

Forgive me, but I have to question you knowledge of the yardes in your area.

I live in Chicago and know best the yardes that are far from me (so I should
not accuse). Any 1965-76 full size car (junked) is likely to have a 425 or
455.

In fact one yarde had an "A" block motor complete on the ground!!
(gotta go back there!!)

And as Roger is NOT a newbie, he must know that these are the same block with
different innards.

BTW Roger and all;

The 1965-7 cars with BBs are 425's with forged cranks and other goodies.

If you find one, buy it, strip it, sell the parts.
Too many have been crushed already!!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 13:05:18 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: RT was: Oh, by the way...

In a posted Email that SHOULD have been private, C.B. writes:

<< Got both your emails at once.  Zipped over to RT, but you were still on
your beer run, apparantly...   >>

Sorry, all.This was for me.

My missives were directly to Chuck, privately.

12:01 now, serves me right.

Supes? I'll TRY to show 2 night, know I said so about Fri, but..

Sorry.

Has everyone finished listing their cars?
BTW: C.B. repost that list to me ~direct~!!!!

Is today Wednesday?

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 11:53:42 -0500
From: <Michael_Baugher/MO/americancentury@americancentury.com>
Subject: Who's represented on 442.com?

- --0__=t5OrrF7DbM7lXbzWl2n1L4qHXU20ekWEM8mn5HUgd1Zzcw3fLSADr3so
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Disposition: inline

Hello all,

Occasionally when I see someone list their car/cars (lots of cars in some
cases) at the end of their post to the list, I'll look at the virtual car
show on 442.com and locate a picture of said vehicle. I've noticed that
there are a lot of folks who don't have their cars out there. I'm really
surprised by that! I know as a fellow Olds owner that each and every one of
us have at LEAST one good photo of our car, and more than enough words to
say about it. I'd really like to see more of us have our cars represented
on the web, especially on the Champion of Olds web pages.

Just my 2
- --0__=t5OrrF7DbM7lXbzWl2n1L4qHXU20ekWEM8mn5HUgd1Zzcw3fLSADr3so
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Disposition: inline
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable


=A2.
(Hope I don't overwork you, Bryceman!)

Mike Baugher
69 Cutlass S convertible
=

- --0__=t5OrrF7DbM7lXbzWl2n1L4qHXU20ekWEM8mn5HUgd1Zzcw3fLSADr3so--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 10:13:27 -0700
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: RT was: Oh, by the way...

KarlAune@AOL.COM wrote:

> Sorry, all.This was for me.

Me?!?! Not Karl

> My missives were directly to Chuck, privately.

My?!?! Not Karl's

> 12:01 now, serves me right.

Me again?!?! Not Karl

> Supes? I'll TRY to show 2 night, know I said so about Fri, but..

I'll?!?! Not Karl will

> BTW: C.B. repost that list to me ~direct~!!!!

Me again?!?! Not Karl

Karl you are slipping.  Not writing in third person!  What is this world
coming to?!?! :-)  I know, "Get back to work Chris".  Ok, bye...


Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 13:35:15 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: RT was: Oh, by the way...

In a message dated 98-09-30 13:17:09 EDT, you write:

<< > Sorry, all.This was for me.

 Me?!?! Not Karl >>



Yah. Karl ~was~ trying to curb non-Olds traffic.

Vain attemt.


K

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 13:38:52 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: 1st at Springfield?? was: Everyone lists their cars

In a message dated 98-09-30 00:20:56 EDT, you write:

<< 57 S88 holiday sedan  four door hardtop restored  1st at Springfield >>

First PLACE at Springfield ??

Congratulations!

Got pics??

Were you at the Centennial?

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 13:45:17 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1980? Cutlass Supreme

In a message dated 9/30/98 12:13:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jadcock@vt.edu
writes:

<< 	jadcock@vt.edu (Jason Adcock) >>
Look at tail light lens, year of car is there.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 13:50:38 EDT
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: A Ques. for Thomas Smith, and "My List" (was: Omega Help)

In a message dated 9/29/98 6:12:28 PM EST, smithtp@ix.netcom.com writes:

<<
 Ray Costanzo wrote:

 > >        Back when I was still a Chevy guy, I had a '71 Nova.  Anyway,
 > What year

         Uh...that would be a 1971 Nova.  I sold it in 1993 for $250.  It
 was eaten up by the glorious northern Illinois winters and the copious
 salt Rockford, Illinois uses on its well-beaten streets.

         Thomas P. Smith
         1971 Cutlass S 350 >>

Thomas,
Are you from Rockford (or the general vicinity)?  I'm curious since I live in
Rockton, and work in Rockford.

Also, here's my "list"
1981 Cutlass Broughm (sp?)
1988 Chavy Cavalier (Cadaver)
1985 Kawasaki GPz750/810
1974 BMW 2002

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 13:55:23 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: Car Alarms

Sam,
There are many good alarms on the market today.
Code Alarm, Viper, Clifford, Crime Stopper, Alpine, Excalibur.
The alarms listed above are all good choices, check with your
local autosound shops to see what they carry. Choose the alarm
that has the features that you are looking for. Remember, more
features, more money. My Code Alarm retailed at $750 uninstalled
five years ago, Because of its features.

Kevin White
83 CSB, FE3X clone
86 CS  DD


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 13:57:34 EDT
From: CRuper1@aol.com
Subject: Re: F/S: Hallmark '69 H/O Ornaments

In a message dated 9/29/98 7:56:03 PM EST, rocket409@juno.com writes:

<< I got one of those last year and gave it to a girl who has decided to
 stop talkning to me.  I am a fool!

 Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                         Bucks County, PA
 -
 On Tue, 29 Sep 98 08:43:39 -0500 brad.nicholson@ssa.gov writes:
 >
 >Time to start that holiday shopping!!!
 >=========================================
 >||  Hallmark 1969 Hurst/442 Ornaments  || >>

Sounds like she doesn't appreciate fine cars..., not a good SO choice...  :-)

Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 13:57:47 -0400
From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: '99 calendar's

Was at a local mall last night and one of the shops were putting out
the 1999 calendar's. Saw 2 with Oldsmobiles in them, one, the Car and
Driver calendar had a '69 H/O in it and the other (don't remember the
name) had a '71 blue W30 convertible. Nice pictures. Anyone on the list
own these???

       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
          Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 W30 stick ~ Red (of course)

                              <mailto:drdecal442@aol.com>
                              <mailto:mcornea@ford.com>

                         Visit <http://www.drdecal.com>

            OCA# 4903
       	    OPC# 14
       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 14:02:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: jtherndon@webtv.net (Jeff Herndon)
Subject: Re: 1980? Cutlass Supreme

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Thanks for advice, but that's not a completely reliable check. That
marking is the model year the lens design was first approved by DOT. The
car makers often used the same style for two or more consecutive years
to save design costs. Anyway, the door label has 10/79  as the date of
manufacture, and the lens is maked 78. It is good for a ballpark guess
though.

Jeff Herndon
86 CS 307Y "Gutless"


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In a message dated 9/30/98 12:13:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jadcock@vt.edu
writes:

<< 	jadcock@vt.edu (Jason Adcock) >>
Look at tail light lens, year of car is there.

- --WebTV-Mail-1861904338-451--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 14:05:23 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70 Speaker Question

Bruce,

That GM speaker was most likely a 10 ohm. The General
is notorious for using high impedance speakers.
Four or eight ohm speakers will draw more power out of an
amplifier, be careful not to overload a 70's deck with a lower impedance
speaker, it could turn your radio into a smoking paper weight. I think that
you will be okay running a 8 ohm speaker, but don't run a 4 ohm.
The output devices would get too hot running that load, and burn out.
My $.02

Kevin White
83 CSB, FE3X clone
86 CS  DD

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 14:03:27 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Gross vs. Net Horsepower

In a message dated 98-09-30 10:35:43 EDT, you write:

<< I have a 1973 455 rated at 265 net horsepower. What is the formula for
 converting to gross to make a comparison to the horsepower ratings used
 in the Sixties?
  >>
I don't think there is a set formula that would be accurate. Too many
variations, such as engine size, transmission, etc. I think net is about 80%
of gross though. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 11:04:53 -0700
From: babyboo@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Joe (Buy a 455) Padavano

Speaking about 455 motors, I've had this reacurring problem I thought i'd ask
the list. On my car{a 1970\442}, theres this sort of switch located behind
the accelerator inside the car. It should slide in and out when you punch the
car to get the four barrells of the carb to open. The problem is, that when I
punch it, the switch "slides open" but if I don't manually reach under the
dash and push it closed with my finger, The next time I go to use the passing
gear, It's not there. I've tried spraying WD-40 on it, white lithim grease,
and to no avail, the switch still needs "help " closing. I don't know if this
"switch "is exclussive to the 70\442, or if all 455's have it. I don't know
if I can take it out and clean it or would be better of just buying a new
one? TIA,Babyboo.


Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:

> Joe, where are you located at? Know of a couple motors for sale, let me
> know
> chris
>
> Chris Sommerville
> ___________
>
> Uh, I'm near Wash DC, but I'm not the one looking for a 455...
>
> On the other hand, if the price is right, I'm always looking to add to my
> stockpile (hey, these _have_ been out of production for over 20 years!)
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 14:12:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: jtherndon@webtv.net (Jeff Herndon)
Subject: Re: '99 calendar's

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I have the 1998 "Muscle Cars - Supercharged for 1998" calendar. (the
cars arn't blown, just the calendar, whatever that means) November has a
stock looking '69 442, silver with black interior. Nice photo of a fine
ride!

Maker of calender is:

Gibson Greetings, Inc.
Cincinatti, OH  45237

Price marked is $10.49 (US), $15.50 (CAN). Got mine for $6.29 at Langley
Air Force Base Exchange in VA after the first of the year.

Jeff Herndon
86 CS 307Y "Gutless"


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Was at a local mall last night and one of the shops were putting out
the 1999 calendar's. Saw 2 with Oldsmobiles in them, one, the Car and
Driver calendar had a '69 H/O in it and the other (don't remember the
name) had a '71 blue W30 convertible. Nice pictures. Anyone on the list
own these???

       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
          Mark Cornea (Dr Decal) `70 W30 stick ~ Red (of course)

                              <mailto:drdecal442@aol.com>
                              <mailto:mcornea@ford.com>

                         Visit <http://www.drdecal.com>

            OCA# 4903
       	    OPC# 14
       ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

- --WebTV-Mail-1671117133-1492--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 11:13:05 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 5-speed Anything 80-88-RWD

> Hey, you guys need an IRAQIBU!
>
> <Andy Green groans "Oh NO!!", rolls eyes towards ceiling>
>
> ;-)

No, it wasn't the Iraqibu; it was the "Flamin' Hot Crunchy
Doritos" I was eating just now...

>One of the early subjects for discussion here... check the FAQ.

Y'know, that must precede the Rear Defogger Flamewar, the
Toro-up-on-blocks debates, Checkers the dog... If there was
an Iraqibu flamewar, I don't remember it. Can you summarize?

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 11:10:26 -0700
From: babyboo@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)

I don't rember from previous threads what kind of car this is, but go ahead and
put your stereo in and have fun. Just rember to save the stock components, so 
if
ever you should want/ or need to sell the car, you can return the car back to
stock, and you don't loose all the money you spent on your "after market"
stereo. Well, thats what I do. Just my .02 cents.

JCRASH7@aol.com wrote:

> I got to thinking.  I'm still probably going to find an original radio.  But,
> for now, I'm going to try to build up a real stereo.  My plan is as follows:
> Pioneer in-dash CD player,
> Equalizer mounted in place of ash tray.
> Better 3 1/2's up front, some nice 6X9's out back, and I think I want some
> midrange in the doors.
> I'm not sure if I want subs or not, at least not now.
>
> Now here's my question.  Right now I'm doing a little body work while it's
> sitting in my garage, and I'm getting it painted next summer.  Is all this
> money worth it?  The car has 175,000 on it, and will need a new tranny and/or
> rear end soon.  I am ~planning~ to drop a 350 or 403 when the 307 goes, but 
in
> reality, I don't know if it will ever happen.  I barely have the space, (but
> I'd have the space if I needed it), I wouldn't have ANY idea how to do it.  
Is
> dropping in a new engine practical?  Can it done by a rookie such as myself?
> :)  Or should I leave the car as-is and wait for a better car to come along 
to
> spend my money on?
>
> I await the Oldsmobiler's opinions,
> Joe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 14:17:04 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: Car Alarms >>Kinda Long

Ryan,

I have a Code Alarm Elite Competition that I purchased almost
5 years ago. Never had alarm that worked this flawlessly before.
What's Wrong with Code Alarms? Also had PRO series on my wife's
TA. NO malfunctions with that one either. So what's your beef with Code
Alarm?

Kevin White

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 11:17:42 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Re: Joe (Buy a 455) Padavano

At 11:04 AM 9/30/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Speaking about 455 motors, I've had this reacurring problem I thought i'd ask
>the list. On my car{a 1970\442}, theres this sort of switch located behind
>the accelerator inside the car. It should slide in and out when you punch the
>car to get the four barrells of the carb to open. The problem is, that when I
>punch it, the switch "slides open" but if I don't manually reach under the
>dash and push it closed with my finger, The next time I go to use the passing
>gear, It's not there. I've tried spraying WD-40 on it, white lithim grease,
>and to no avail, the switch still needs "help " closing. I don't know if this
>"switch "is exclussive to the 70\442, or if all 455's have it. I don't know
>if I can take it out and clean it or would be better of just buying a new
>one? TIA,Babyboo.

Actually anything with a TH400 transmission has it. It is you kick down
switch.
they are only aroung $15 new

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 14:23:21 -0400
From: Don Casteel <dcasteel@gcnet.net>
Subject: "OLD Junkyards"

I should have asked this sooner, since I'll be leaving early Friday
morning.  I am going to Charlotte, North Carolina over the weekend (I
live in Maryland).  Is there anyone that lives in that area that might
know where there is an "OLD" junkyard that might possibly have some
parts for a 1937 Oldsmobile Coupe!  Would appreciate any suggestions and
will check them out when I get down there.  Thanks!
Don



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 11:19:49 -0700
From: babyboo@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: 69 442 grilles

As far as the color for the 70 grills, the one thats on my 70, is gray. It had
a little wear and tear from age, so I ordered a new one from YEARONE, and it
too is gray. Just my .02 cents.

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:

> Thanks to all who responded privately to my comments/questions on the 442
> grilles and headlight doors, but I think you all misunderstood my comment.
> I was aware that they are silver and black, however I was commenting on the
> fact that _every_ used set I've bought (including the used headlight
> housing I got yesterday) have all been painted completely black by a
> previous owner.  I have to agree with Kerry, it does look cool (which is
> likely why the 69 H/Os _did_ come with these parts painted black), but I
> just found it amusing that it appears that _everyone_ has painted theirs
> black!  The same thing seems to go for used 70 442 grilles.  I have
> something like 2 1/2 complete sets (and several broken ones), and most of
> those had been painted black.
>
> As for my question on the color of the stone shield, I'm not talking about
> the hood tongue.  I'm refering to the horizontal metal shield that's
> between the inboard ends of the grilles, behind the center of the bumper.
> I got two responses, one said silver, one black.  Any other votes?
>
> Thanks to all
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 14:26:15 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Aftermarket Radio

Looking for a aftermarket radio for my 71 442 W30 Convert.
(with A/C of course) Tried Crutchfield, but have to butcher
the dash (no no on that). HELP

Ron Haun (rghaun@aol.com)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 14:27:56 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Re: Car Alarms >>Kinda Long

In a message dated 9/30/98 2:23:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
KWhite5590@aol.com writes:

<< :	KWhite5590@aol.com >>
Do they have a web site??
Ron Haun

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 11:42:50 -0700
From: babyboo@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)

I see in your post,you say "using JL audio, Oz mids tweets and mids, Pheonix
Gold, and Clarion  head units, You'd better be prepared to get out the old 
check
book to write a biga*s check. cause your talking "best of the best" stuff here.
I have some of the above listed items in my dailey driver< Worth the extra
bucks> just be carefull when "booming" not to draw to much attention to your
self, or some one might like you system  more  than you do and steal
it,{personaly had this problem, now I stay lo-key}  JUST MY .02 CENTS.

Oldsmagnet wrote:

> > I got to thinking.
>
> Uh oh....
>
> > I'm going to try to build up a real stereo.  My plan is as follows:
> > Pioneer in-dash CD player,
> > Equalizer mounted in place of ash tray.
> > Better 3 1/2's up front, some nice 6X9's out back, and I think I want some
> > midrange in the doors.
>
> Good start...
>
> > I'm not sure if I want subs or not, at least not now.
>
> Yes, you do.  Period. :)  Especially if you don't get 6X9's in back (can't
> remember what fits there...)  If you go with a sub or two, you ~won't~ regret
> it!  I guarantee it!  A singal 10 or 12 would probably be perfect for that
car, > unless you want to do some showing off too.  Then two 12's would be
excellent. > I run two 10" MTX 5000 series.  I am very happy with 'em in the
Teaser. > > You're fine with a Pioneer choice for CD player.  BUT, don't get it
from > Walmart, or similar discount center.  They are a different line, and are
most > definately lower quality.  Go with the "real" stuff, or even Premier, if
you > choose.  We deal the standard (middle) line.  ~BIG~ quality difference,
we've > seen, between ours, and the WalMart lines.  Not sure how much better 
the
Premier > line is.  Seems like a couple features per unit, but might be better.
Personal > preference, there.  Standard line includes the 245, 345, 635, and 
835
(~mest~ > common ones) and the Premier line will proudly boast it...  With
these, you'll > be paying for features.  We've sold tons of the 245's at 
199.99,
(bottom of > Pioneer's line) and had great luck with 'em, the higher models add
features, not > quality.  The 245 seems to still be a high quality piece.
Pioneer has (finally) > came out with a high quality 3-1/2 driver.  If they'd
have done it ~last~ year, > I wouldn't have Kicker's in ~my~ dash.  But both 
are
good speakers.  Anyway... > > Door speakers???  Not sure what you'll have room
for there, but I think it's > gonna be custom.  Don't recall ever seeing
speakers in those doors.  :(  But, as > I recall, those doors have room for 
tons
of options (any verified experience > here?????)  For sound quality, mids in 
the
doors would be a Godsend in that car, > 3-12's just don't do much.  a good pair
of 6-1/2 midbass drivers would be worth > their weight in Gold in that sound
system... > > As to the sub/no-sub system?  If you can do it, by all means, do
it.  You'll be > glad you did, it adds ~sooooo~ much.  It doesn't have to be
anything massive or > extravagent, even a single 10 will make a vastly 
noticable
difference for you. > An important factor of a good sounding sub is the amp.
Skip the EQ for now, > that can come later.  Pioneer's decks have a good EQ
curve built in, use it, > you'll be happy.  The amp should be a high quality
unit, pushing at a ~very~ > minimum of 50 watts true RMS to each sub.  That 
will
give you the reserve power > you'll need to truly experience the music.
Anything above that is up to your > own pocket's discretion, but the sky's the
limit.  Pioneer's line of amps is > high quality, as long as supplied from a
reputable source (i.e. ~NOT~ WalMart!) > MTX supplies some really fine
equipment, too.  I haven't been impressed by > Clarion amps and speakers, in 
the
past... (Love their head units, though!!!) > Kicker is a good product too.
Fosgate, Alpine, and  Kenwood are all reputable > performers.... (although ~I~
don't support 'em...  Had good luck with some > Rockford Fosgate, but as for 
all
around sound quality and performance, I can't > say ~too~ much in their 
favor...
For power and punch?  Yeah, Fosgate will shake > ya! > > My ~best~
recommendations???  JL Audio subs, Oz Audio mids and highs, Phoenix > Gold 
amps,
Audio Control signal Processors, and Clarion source.  That's the best > of the
best, to me. > > The ~BIG~ question, however, is "Is It Worth It???????" > Most
definately yes.  Regardless of what you're driving, ~yes~ it's very worth > it.
Especially if you do the work yourself.  You can take ~all~ the equipment > 
with
you if (when) you get a new car.  In the event you sell your car, you can >
almost be the next owner ~will~ put a CD player in it, or pay you extra to 
leave >
yours there.  Don't worry about hacking the dash, unless there's 
"unrepairable" >
damage caused by it, and it's a "verified" classic, i.e. something from the 
50s >
or 60s that you'll ~never~ find a replacement for.  The Delta, albeit a 
classic, >
doesn't qualify.  Neither does the Cutlass.  Which is why I have a CD player. >
And why I've done Delta cutouts several times without a moment of remorse. >
You've got the right car, enjoy it to it's fullest. > > CD is the only way to
go, for sound quality, for performance, for convenience. > I'll cite George
Strait as an example.  You know the scenaario.  You by an > album, since you
heard a good song on the radio.  What do you know.  There's > only two good
songs on the album...  ~OF COURSE~ they're the second songs on > each side of
the tape...  ten minutes of fast forwarding for each song, stopping >
periodically to deterimine where you are (Or if your AMS in finding it...) >
George Strait is a perfect example, (as mentioned) because almost ~all~ of his 
>
albums have had two or three awesome songs... The rest absolutely sucked.... >
Nothing mediocre, just garbage (IMHO!:) Lots of music search in order, there. 
>
CD you don't have to wait, you don't have to worry about taking your eyes off >
the road for extended periods of time.  YOU JUST GET THERE!  Simple and quick. 
>
I call it a major safety issue.   (Damn tapes! :)  So, ~yes~ it's ~very~ worth 
>
it.  even if you don't keep the equipment, it will increase the resale value 
of >
the car, if sold to a non-dealer.  And the only unrecoverable cost, upon 
resale, >
would be the installation labor.  If you do it yourself, you're only out time. 
>
Big deal, eh?  Take a cruise with someone who has a relatively decent system, >
and then compare that experience to your own vehicle.  Big difference?  
There's >
your answer.  :) > > -- > Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\
|-------| > mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   | >
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   | >    \ | /
=========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   | >     \|/  List Removal
and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  | >      V   
===========================
V      |\/|=|  | / | \ | >   http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/
|___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 14:05:01 -0500 (CDT)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: Find a 455 was: Joe (Buy a 455) Padavano

Karl Aune wrote:
>
>Forgive me, but I have to question you knowledge of the yardes in your area.
>
Good points all, Karl.

I have pretty well scoured all the "yardes" I know of within a 30ish mile
radius of where I live over the past 3 or 4 years. Most of the greedy,
short-sighted "gentlemen" who run theses places in my (red) neck of the
woods have crushed like crazy for scrap value. Even  places that were good
sources a couple years ago now have nothing but newer junk.

There is one place that prolly has something -- but these are the very
paranoid gentlemen who'll have some chance of a future with Dept of
Corrections. I do get stuff there from time to time 'cause I gotta have it.
But, damn, I don't trust those guys. (They've been busted at least once
already for buying "hot" cars, but somehow are still in biz.)

Mebbe I should put on my crummiest, geasiest clothes & go talk to 'em. I
just know they'll cheat me...

Perhaps I'm too big a wimp to drive a BB Olds!

roger

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 11:52:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Aftermarket Radio

 I think I saw some radios in JC Whitney.  They were modern cassette
decks, bur they looked and fit exactly like originals.  I'll double
check the catalog when I get home.  WHen I got a new stereo for my
car, I just installed it in an enclosure that's mounted under the
dash.  I used the existing screw holes, and drilled 2 more.  They're
not really noticeable unless you're looking for them.  This may be
another alternative to look into.  I hope this helps.

Stefan
sgadecki@yahoo.com
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 15:06:56 -0400
From: "FRANK MONTERO" <parc@erols.com>
Subject: FOR SALE '85 442

Regretting the fact that this HAS to be done and I repeat HAS to be done.

Selling my bride and joy:
1985 442
been in the family since November of '85!

Located in Eastern Suffolk county in New York.
Asking $7900

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 11:54:15 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: 69 442 grilles

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:

> As for my question on the color of the stone shield, I'm not talking about
> the hood tongue.  I'm refering to the horizontal metal shield that's
> between the inboard ends of the grilles, behind the center of the bumper.
> I got two responses, one said silver, one black.  Any other votes?

Joe,
I've noticed futher postings of some black, some silver.
We've got three 69's here.  Both 4-4-2's are silver,
(both are Fremont cars).  The Vista Cruiser's was silver.
Now painted Nordic blue to match the car and grilles.
Never seen one painted black from the factory.

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 12:00:28 -0700
From: babyboo@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Joe (Buy a 455) Padavano

Oh ya? I wonder how hard this will be to find. Meaning if I can go to the local
auto parts store and purchase it. Will check on it over the weekend, as no time
during the week. Thanks for the reply.

Bob Blanchard wrote:

> At 11:04 AM 9/30/98 -0700, you wrote:
> >Speaking about 455 motors, I've had this reacurring problem I thought i'd 
ask
> >the list. On my car{a 1970\442}, theres this sort of switch located behind
> >the accelerator inside the car. It should slide in and out when you punch 
the
> >car to get the four barrells of the carb to open. The problem is, that when 
I
> >punch it, the switch "slides open" but if I don't manually reach under the
> >dash and push it closed with my finger, The next time I go to use the 
passing
> >gear, It's not there. I've tried spraying WD-40 on it, white lithim grease,
> >and to no avail, the switch still needs "help " closing. I don't know if 
this
> >"switch "is exclussive to the 70\442, or if all 455's have it. I don't know
> >if I can take it out and clean it or would be better of just buying a new
> >one? TIA,Babyboo.
>
> Actually anything with a TH400 transmission has it. It is you kick down
> switch.
> they are only aroung $15 new

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 15:27:05 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)

Charley,

 The Premier line is Pioneer's high end. But not as high as their ODR
system. We need to get together and talk stereo.

Kevin White

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 15:36:01 -0400
From: "Frederick S. Nissen" <FSNissen@Worldnet.ATT.NET>
Subject: Re: 1980? Cutlass Supreme

Jeff Herndon wrote:

>
> Here's the VIN: 3M47FAD417000
>
A = 1980
F = 260 V8

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 15:30:35 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: 1980? Cutlass Supreme

On Wednesday, September 30, 1998 2:03 PM, Jeff Herndon
[SMTP:jtherndon@webtv.net] wrote: > Thanks for advice, but that's not a
completely reliable check. That > marking is the model year the lens design was
first approved by DOT. The > car makers often used the same style for two or
more consecutive years > to save design costs. Anyway, the door label has 10/79
as the date of > manufacture, and the lens is maked 78. It is good for a
ballpark guess > though.

Probably, the best way would be to take a look at the front.  If it's flat with
quad headlights (mid-80's Delta style), it's a 1980.  If it's got single
headlights (two total), it's a 79 or 78.
 Maybe a look at 442.com would confirm your guess.

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 15:22:46 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Questions for Igor.was Re: Stereo System and Is it worth it? (84 DRB)

Igor,
O.K. you asked for it.

First things first, your Clarion deck has 120w? I don't think so.
The amplifier needed to produce 120w is going to be Twice the size
of your radio.
Next, why are your 4" mids mounted low in the center of your dash
next to your ashtray? This makes no sense, at least to me.
Are your 6x9 speakers baffled? The output of your subwoofer will
have an effect on the rear wave of your 6x9s if they are not in their
own enclosure.
How high is your sound stage?
Do you have good image placement?
What brand sub?
What brand amps?
How are you assigning frequencies to all of speakers?
You didn't list a crossover. Muay importanty piece of equipment for
proper sound reproduction.
These are just question that I have about your system.
I apologize if this reply sound mean.
Here is what my 83 Cutlass (olds content) has in it.

>Kenwood KDC 95r CD Tuner
No amplifier onboard. Bought it new in 1991
>Kenwood KDC C601 ten disc changer
>Alesis MEQ 230 equalizer
Pro Sound e.q. modified for 12v use. 2 channel, 30bands per channel
>Rane AC23 crossover
Pro Sound xover modified for 12v use. 24 dB per octave slopes, digital
delay, stereo 3-way, mono 4 or 5 way.
>SOUNDSTREAM Reference 405s
rated 25x4+100x1 into 4 ohms at 12v
real world 40x4+150x1 into 4 ohms at 14.4v
>USD wave guides D2RT(2)
Horn loaded compression drivers. Midrange and tweeter all in one unit.
mount under dash for proper pathlengths between drivers.
>SOUNDSTREAM Exact 6 mid woofer(2)
custom built kickpanel enclosures (yea, fiberglass fun)
>SOUNDSTREAM Reference SS10r (2)
These are the mother of all 10" subs. Nicknamed the velvet hammers.
I got your BIG magnets (17 pound motor structure)
The horns receive frequencies 600 Hz and up.
The mids run from 60 Hz to 600 Hz
The subs see everything from 60 Hz on down to the inaudible.
This is system #3 for the Cutlass.
This system is designed for sound quality, but it will still pound the
fillings out of your teeth.
If you have any questions feel free to mail me direct, or post it
on the list.

Kevin White
83 CSB, FE3X clone
86 CS  DD

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 15:41:40 EDT
From: KWhite5590@aol.com
Subject: Re: Aftermarket Radio

Ron,
 Try <A HREF="http://www.custom-autosound.com/">Custom Autosound Mfg.</A>
Click on the link.
I hope this isn't that HTML thing Greg's been talking about.
 Kevin White

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 15:45:46 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Joe (Buy a 455) Padavano

Speaking about 455 motors, I've had this reacurring problem I thought i'd
ask
the list. On my car{a 1970\442}, theres this sort of switch located behind
the accelerator inside the car....I don't know if this
"switch "is exclussive to the 70\442, or if all 455's have it. I don't know
if I can take it out and clean it or would be better of just buying a new
one? TIA,Babyboo.
__________

This is the kickdown switch to activate the 3 to 2 shift in the TH400.  Any
68-72 TH400-equipped A-body has the switch, as do any with a Jetaway.  I
suspect the same switch was used on _all_ 68-up GM cars with electric
kickdown (earlier ones used a switch mounted on the engine side of the
firewall), but the bracket may be different.  You can certainly grab the
switch and swap it onto the new bracket.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 14:59:35 -0500
From: "Johnson, Sam" <SAJOHNSON@usds.com>
Subject: Last day

	unsubscribe oldsmobile SAJOHNSON@usds.com
<mailto:SAJOHNSON@usds.com>


	Well this is my last day here, but I will be back on my email
account at home at address below.  See ya

======================
Sam E. Johnson, JR.
>  <mailto:Cutlass403@ameritech.net> Cutlass403@ameritech.net
>1971 Cutlass S 455
>Westside! Chitown IL
21 Wins 13 Losses 1Tie
======================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 16:19:44 EDT
From: JCRASH7@aol.com
Subject: Re: 350 cid Cutlass update

In a message dated 9/29/98 10:31:21 PM Central Daylight Time,
rpeatman@dwave.net writes:

> > 1982 Cutlass Supreme
>  > 350 Chev bored 30 over,
>  > Edelbrock carb and heads, modified Chev crank,
>  > TH350,
>  > 3.73 Posi,
>  > A/C,
>  > No power anything,
>  > Rallye guages,
>  > 15" Iroc wheels,
>  > no radio (just wires)
>  >
>  > Joe
>  Where is this car located ?

Burnsville, MN (20 minutes south of MPLS)

Joe

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1520
*********************************
