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cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1527


oldsmobile-digest      Saturday, October 3 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1527



Re: restoring SSI
Re: Ignition kill switch
"The Unit" will soon make it's debut!!
Rally 350 stripe kit
need
AM/FM radio cost?
Small apology to everyone
Gas Prices Was:RE: CCC Error Codes (or lack of)
FS:  1970 W-31
Re: 72 convertible sitting and rotting
Re: restoring SSI
RE: CCC Error Codes (or lack of)
Re: Ignition kill switch
Fwd: Re:  Re: Tapes of the Olds show from speed vision.
Re: CCC Error Codes (or lack of)
ADMIN: No Pictures Please
Re: Ignition kill switch
Re: Ignition kill switch
Dear Santa......................
Re: More on Olds Engine ID Was: 425 Cadddy, ride me big boy, the Spanish
Inquisition 69 Olds : Running rough Agin' re: Song Detector Re: ADMIN: No
Pictures Please 1955 Holiday Coupe To V.D.: Yarde Update: 1969 98 RE: Exhaust
FYI Re : Dear Santa...................... RE: CCC Error Codes (or lack of) RE:
Song Detector Re: CCC Error Codes (or lack of) Dremel tools & pot metal,
Dynomation, excessive posting, the Spanish Inquisition Re: Car Alarms Re: CCC
Error Codes (or lack of) add another to the fleet... Timing Chain Re: 2- Jet
Jets was: Dremel tools & pot metal, etc. Gas Re: Timing Chain New Olds atleast
for ME Re: Timing Chain Re: ADMIN: No Pictures Please info Re: Gas Re: Water
Pump Fail Re: CCC Codes Classifieds in the paper Re: Timing Chain

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 23:28:53 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: restoring SSI

According to the chrome shops around here, the rim must
be separated from the hub in order to replate.  And
according to the wheel shops, this separation process
will destroy either the hub or rim.  Thus requiring
two sets of wheels to make one set.
____________

Greg,

I don't think that this is true.  When I was looking to get my 69 H/O
wheels replated, I inquired at several chrome shops in SoCal.  Since the
H/O wheels have the rims plated before the centers are welded on, I asked
if these shops would remove the centers to plate just the rims.  They said
that they don't do that, and that the whole wheel would get plated.

Also, some of the custom steel wheel houses, such as Stockton and Wheel
Vintiques, actually cut the centers out of your original rims and weld them
into brand new rims that they have in stock.  This is how they can build
15x10 SSIII wheels, or 17X8 Chevy super stock wheels.  The problem with
trying to run factory wheels with diameters greater than 15" is that chrome
trim rings don't exist and you have to chrome the rim instead.
Unfortunately, IMHO, this doesn't look very good.  Check out the 69 Camaro
in Muscle Car Review a couple of issues ago.  It had 17" SS wheels.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 23:00:29 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Ignition kill switch

All this talk of ignition kill switches raises
one question in my mind.  Installing a on/off
switch in the positive coil wire seems moot.
Because when the car is hot wired, this
switch will have in effect been bypassed.
Thereby serving no purpose.


Greg Rollin
___________

Greg,

I think the term "hot wired" is a misnomer.  Unlike in the movies, very few
car thieves simply reach under the dash and twist two wires together to
start the car.  For one thing, there's that pesky steering column lock on
69-up cars that is conveniently overlooked in most movie hot wire scenes.
Virutally every stolen car I've ever seen has had the ignition lock popped
out with a slide hammer (taking all of 10 seconds) and had a screwdriver
used to turn the switch.  (Note:  am I the only one who sees the irony in
the fact that the federally mandated steering column lock actually makes it
_easier_ to steal a car?  In pre-69 cars, a thief has to punch the ignition
switch out of the dash and then really does have to figure out which wires
to jump together)  The car thief doesn't have time to get under the hood,
not to mention the attention such an activity would attract, and so he
never even touches the wiring.  Thus, the aforementioned switch in the
positive side of the coil would, in fact, be very effective.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 00:21:59 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: "The Unit" will soon make it's debut!!

My folks mailed pictures of The Unit today. So, you can guess what that
means. As soon as I get my hands on a scanner, y'all can see my $300
prize!!!
- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 00:27:44 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Rally 350 stripe kit

I may have access to a complete rally(e?) 350 stripe kit.  How would the
worth of that kit compare to the 72 Hurst stripe kit?  Anyone have an
idea?

Same place might have some fiberglass hoods for sale for the 70-72
Cutlass.  I don't have the details yet, but I am supposed to get with
the guy for more details next week.  He may have some other stuff for
sale also.  He is going to check what he has available and check into
what he wants for it.  Correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't the
fiberglass hoods only come on the ram air cars (Hurst, W-30)?

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 00:26:38 -0400
From: Todd Williams <todd@wvadventures.net>
Subject: need

im needing the black box that covers the blower motor for the heater that
goes on the fire wall under the hood not sure if any differnt years or
makes will fix i have a 72 cutlass supreme no/ac box is what im looking for.


Todd
todd@wvadventures.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 00:40:54 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: AM/FM radio cost?

GAng, in my junk yarding runs this week I may have come across a factory
AM/FM radio for my 70 or 72 Cutlass/Hurst.  Don't have a clue whether it
works or not, but I am curious as to what I should expect to pay for it
either way.  FWIW, none of my cars have the AM/FM option.  I also THINK
I found a power antenna motor for the quarterpanel.  However the mast
was broken.  Is this of any good anyway?  Next question.  I also saw a
70-72 rear bumper with the bumper guards on it in decent condition (I
think).  The bumper was in decent shape for a blank but had a slight
dent in the middle.  What would this stuff be worth?

One other car I found was what I believe to be a 68 Cutlass (S I think
but I'm not sure) with a floor mounted shifter and console.  It appeared
to be relatively complete but I didn't have time to check to much.  When
I got there the place was supposedly closed but they let me go back and
look around for a while.  Since I thpught they were in a bit of a hurry,
I didn't search as much as I would like to have.  Just figured I would
go back again in a week or two and take the camcorder to "assist" my
memory a bit.

Last question for the night.  What is a reasonable price to pay for the
gas gauge, speedo and clock of a 69 S?  The facings and plastic/glass
looked good but I have no idea if they work or not.  I do know that the
gauges in MY 69 had the glass/plastic broken and are probably not good.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 00:50:04 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Small apology to everyone

Sorry about all the questions/posts recently but I FINALLY had a little
time free and was in the general area of some yards that might have
something to help me begin restoring my flock.  I get a little excited
when it appears that some forward motion MIGHT finally be in the works.
Just bare with me if you would.  Found a guy that will do decent body
work at a reasonable cost, and maybe some parts at a cost I can afford.
So there is some hope I could have one or more of my children ready for
the road by spring.  Closest thing to good news on the old car front
I've had for years.  BIG :)

At least I can think in that direction with some possibility that it
just could happen..........

Don Sowers

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 01:00:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: jtherndon@webtv.net (Jeff Herndon)
Subject: Gas Prices Was:RE: CCC Error Codes (or lack of)

- --WebTV-Mail-1027778787-3294
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Upstate SC, I found Regular @ $0.78/gal and Premium (92 octane) @
$0.97/gal. Not so worried about bad milage right now.:-)

Jeff Herndon
86 CS 307Y "Gutless"


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Error
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On Friday, October 02, 1998 9:58 PM, Dave Cullen [SMTP:david.cullen@snet.net]
wrote: > > BTW I put some hi-test in mine, and the ping went almost completely
away.

Yeah, the 93/94 usually does it for mine, too.  And I shouldn't be complaining
about it right now, with the gasoline prices so low.  Down here in SW VA, I can
get 93 for something like 1.19.  That's cheaper than I've seen in a while!

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org


- --WebTV-Mail-1027778787-3294--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 00:13:05 -0500
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: FS:  1970 W-31

Hi folks,
           Saw this in the most recent issue of "Tradewinds" magazine.
Car is located in Carthage, Mississippi.  (North of Jackson)  Usual
disclaimers apply:  Don't know the person, or the car, or what shape
it's in...

"For Sale:  1970 Olds W-31.  Hdtp., yellow with white interior.  4 spd.,
350 ci., posi., #'s matching.  1 of first 100 produced.  $3,500.  Call
(601) 298-0652."

Didn't give a name.  Yellow with white interior?  Sounds like the 1970
'Cuda on "Nash Bridges".  (Hey, when you work at a CBS affiliate, you
automatically know these things... :-)

Hope someone can benefit from this.

Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
Columbus, MS         1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html
http://www.442.com/newmantape.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 22:17:52 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: 72 convertible sitting and rotting

When I asked the guy how much he wanted, he said $5000!!!!   He must be
>nuts, but point is, that was a year ago and I just drove by and saw the
>car still sitting.

Sounds like the overpriced 65 Vista Cruiser I know of that the guy has been
trying to sell for about FOUR YEARS now - gee, and its still for sale!

This makes me happy I got my convert for $600


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible,  '72
Vista Cruiser, '80 GMC

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 22:11:04 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: restoring SSI

> According to the chrome shops around here, the rim must
> be separated from the hub in order to replate.  And
> according to the wheel shops, this separation process
> will destroy either the hub or rim.  Thus requiring
> two sets of wheels to make one set.
> ____________
>
> Greg,
>
> I don't think that this is true.  When I was looking to get my 69 H/O
> wheels replated, I inquired at several chrome shops in SoCal.  Since the
> H/O wheels have the rims plated before the centers are welded on, I asked
> if these shops would remove the centers to plate just the rims.  They said
> that they don't do that, and that the whole wheel would get plated.
>
> Also, some of the custom steel wheel houses, such as Stockton and Wheel
> Vintiques, actually cut the centers out of your original rims and weld them
> into brand new rims that they have in stock.  This is how they can build
> 15x10 SSIII wheels, or 17X8 Chevy super stock wheels.  The problem with
> trying to run factory wheels with diameters greater than 15" is that chrome
> trim rings don't exist and you have to chrome the rim instead.
> Unfortunately, IMHO, this doesn't look very good.  Check out the 69 Camaro
> in Muscle Car Review a couple of issues ago.  It had 17" SS wheels.
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>

Joe,
I'm only going by what the better chrome shops here in
Portland have told us.  Ditto with the wheel shops.
Apparently, they are unable to provide a good
quality chrome job to the wheel as a one piece
unit (perhaps this is why the factory plated them
as two separate units?).

There are several places around Portland that will
take ones original hubs and install whatever height/width
rims one's little heart desires (I should note, Specialty
Wheel uses new centers on their repro series wheels).
Some of the local guys have had their hubs
installed on these 15X10 rims, and in my opinion,
using the stock 15X7 trim rings looks a little "lacking".


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 22:37:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: CCC Error Codes (or lack of)

- ---Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu> wrote:
  And I shouldn't be complaining about it right now,  with the
gasoline prices so low.  Down here in SW VA, I can get 93 for
something like 1.19.  That's  cheaper than I've seen in a while!

- ----$1.19 a gallon !!!!!! I get 93 for .99 a gallon....it's been as
low as .79 for 87 a couple of weeks ago .

==
John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 23:22:51 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Ignition kill switch

> All this talk of ignition kill switches raises
> one question in my mind.  Installing a on/off
> switch in the positive coil wire seems moot.
> Because when the car is hot wired, this
> switch will have in effect been bypassed.
> Thereby serving no purpose.
>
> Greg Rollin
> ___________
>
> Greg,
>
> I think the term "hot wired" is a misnomer.  Unlike in the movies, very few
> car thieves simply reach under the dash and twist two wires together to
> start the car.  For one thing, there's that pesky steering column lock on
> 69-up cars that is conveniently overlooked in most movie hot wire scenes.
> Virutally every stolen car I've ever seen has had the ignition lock popped
> out with a slide hammer (taking all of 10 seconds) and had a screwdriver
> used to turn the switch.  (Note:  am I the only one who sees the irony in
> the fact that the federally mandated steering column lock actually makes it
> _easier_ to steal a car?  In pre-69 cars, a thief has to punch the ignition
> switch out of the dash and then really does have to figure out which wires
> to jump together)  The car thief doesn't have time to get under the hood,
> not to mention the attention such an activity would attract, and so he
> never even touches the wiring.  Thus, the aforementioned switch in the
> positive side of the coil would, in fact, be very effective.
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com

Joe,
I guess I was just remembering way back in high school, (which,
was in part like the movies!) if someone lost their keys, etc.,
we would connect a wire from the battery to the coil, cross the starter
terminals, and they could drive away.
This was of course on 68 and older vehicles
(A certain cute girl's 51 Merc comes to mind).
Anyway, my point was that it is very easy to bypass
any kind of hidden switch. Regardless of year.
And if some scumbag wants your car bad enough,
lifting the hood to connect a jumper wire
is no big deal.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 03:38:39 EDT
From: JJP442@aol.com
Subject: Fwd: Re:  Re: Tapes of the Olds show from speed vision.

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- --part0_907400320_boundary
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Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII



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Content-disposition: inline

From: JJP442@aol.com
Return-path: <JJP442@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re:  Re: Tapes of the Olds show from speed vision.
Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 17:25:25 EDT
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

Kerry,
I'd like a copy of that show also if it's not too much trouble.
If you can e-mail me with your address and $$$ info I'll send it off right
away to you.

Thanks,
John_Queens N.Y.
JJP442@aol.com
1983 H/O
1987 442

- --part0_907400320_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 01:41:53 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: CCC Error Codes (or lack of)

> That's the mixture control solenoid in the carb. The ECM buzzes it during
> the test mode.

At 30% or so, as I recall...

> And code 12 is also normal, no problem found.

Not ~necessarily, but usually.  Code 12 is a "No distributor reference" code,
which means the ECM isn't seeing a tach signal (duh, car's off! :)   But,
theoretically, the EST plug could be damaged, disrupting the tach signal while
running, the CEL would light, but no code would set, since Code 12 won't show 
as
a hard code, unless tested while running.  (Which, although you won't find it 
in
a service manual, ~is~ possible, I've done it, and Code 12 ~doesn't~ show up
there...)  There are also different test modes accessed by using a certain
resistance between ALDL's A&B...  Don't recall all the specifics, but that
allowed a documented test while running...

> ----$1.19 a gallon !!!!!! I get 93 for .99 a gallon....it's been as
> low as .79 for 87 a couple of weeks ago .

Here in the land of no speed limits, it's still in the $1.20's...  99 cents,
eh?  E-mail me a few tanks, I need 'em!!!!!  :)
- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 08:40:12 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: ADMIN: No Pictures Please

I get nervous when I read some folks talking about getting pictures
scanned, so I thought I'd just remind the list members that the only way
to handle it is to put them on a web page and tell us where to look.
Please do not send them to the list. Thanks!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 08:38:56 -0400
From: "person" <vbdeveloper@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Ignition kill switch

My grandfather had a regular 110 electrical outlet in the glove box that
split the starter hot lead. The Switch??? was an electrical plug that was
shorted. When the plug was in the car would start, otherwise...... I got one
of them in a different area of the car and have had a lot of laughs watching
people trying to start the car with  my keys. Some have even looked for an
anti-theft devise, but NEVER found one.
'69 Olds Ninety-Eight Topless Bubba
- -----Original Message-----
From: Padavano.Joe@orbital.com <Padavano.Joe@orbital.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, October 03, 1998 12:04 AM
Subject: Re: Ignition kill switch


>All this talk of ignition kill switches raises
>one question in my mind.  Installing a on/off
>switch in the positive coil wire seems moot.
>Because when the car is hot wired, this
>switch will have in effect been bypassed.
>Thereby serving no purpose.
>
>
>Greg Rollin
>___________
>
>Greg,
>
>I think the term "hot wired" is a misnomer.  Unlike in the movies, very few
>car thieves simply reach under the dash and twist two wires together to
>start the car.  For one thing, there's that pesky steering column lock on
>69-up cars that is conveniently overlooked in most movie hot wire scenes.
>Virutally every stolen car I've ever seen has had the ignition lock popped
>out with a slide hammer (taking all of 10 seconds) and had a screwdriver
>used to turn the switch.  (Note:  am I the only one who sees the irony in
>the fact that the federally mandated steering column lock actually makes it
>_easier_ to steal a car?  In pre-69 cars, a thief has to punch the ignition
>switch out of the dash and then really does have to figure out which wires
>to jump together)  The car thief doesn't have time to get under the hood,
>not to mention the attention such an activity would attract, and so he
>never even touches the wiring.  Thus, the aforementioned switch in the
>positive side of the coil would, in fact, be very effective.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 09:06:17 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Ignition kill switch

Greg Rollin wrote:

> we would connect a wire from the battery to the coil, cross the starter
> terminals, and they could drive away.
> This was of course on 68 and older vehicles
> Anyway, my point was that it is very easy to bypass
> any kind of hidden switch.
>
> Greg Rollin

        How about this.  Instead of installing a switch that opens the positive
lead to the coil,  install a switch that grounds the negative side of the coil.
I think this has been mentioned already.  Anyway, installing a jumper to hot
wire the vehicle will be useless.  The thief will have to find the ground wire
and remove it.  I can think of numerous ways to do this in a completely hidden
fashion.  This would solve the problem for both pre and post 1968 vehicles.  
Any
thoughts?

        Thomas P. Smith
        1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 09:15:11 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Dear Santa......................

If there's anybody out there that's wondering what to get me for 
Christmas....Go
to alt.binaries.pictures.auto   click on '50 Olds wagan, and all your questions
will be answered..!!


Mike

PS.A very nice automobile


"And the three men I admire most-
the Father, Son, and the Holy Ghost-
They caught the last train for the coast
The day the music died................"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 09:29:48 -0400
From: "person" <vbdeveloper@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: More on Olds Engine ID Was: 425 Cadddy, ride me big boy, the
Spanish Inquisition

Great news!!! Need : trunk lid, fenders, hubcaps(I lost one!!!), dashboard
stuff, seats,instrument cluster(maybe), steering column(only tilt),steering
wheel, power windows switches. More, but can not think right now. Would
they sell the whole car, if it is worth it??? I live in South Florida, so
shipping/transportation costs are a factor.Thanks for your help. Hope I can
return the favor someday
'69 Olds Ninety-Eight Topless Bubba
- -----Original Message-----
From: KarlAune@aol.com <KarlAune@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, September 28, 1998 7:06 PM
Subject: More on Olds Engine ID Was: 425 Cadddy, ride me big boy, the
Spanish Inquisition


>Whoops, sent  before finished.
>
>I did send the meat as I recall, but had to mention for "vdeveloper"
(right?)
>
>I HAVE seen a 1969 98 in a yarde near Peoria.
>Indications are it has been there since mid 80's (found newspaper
inside..).
>Body panels look great compared to what I have seen for my car.
>
>Any needs?
>
>Or if you are close enough I will send directions to Harmon's.
>
>Good Oldsmobiling!
>
>SOM
>
>&KA
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 10:02:10 -0400
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@pa.net>
Subject: 69 Olds : Running rough Agin'

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BDEEB4.E2F25C20
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I was tool ing done the road the other day, hit passing gear
and the car started to miss. It cleared up for a while, and then
got very rough. Felt like a bad plug or maybe the carb was loading up.
Backfired, missed, coughed through carb etc. Idles fine.

I have done the following :
   1. changed plugs . that fixed it last time
   2. tore a part and cleaned carb
   3. changed back to the original distributor
   4. put on the timing light=20

   I have hooked the vacuum advance line to the Edlebrock carb
   The car actually runs better with the vaccum advance disconnected.
   Any ideas on that one      =20

Ken Swick
swickka@pa.net

- ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BDEEB4.E2F25C20
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

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<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I was tool ing done the road the =
other day, hit=20
passing gear</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>and the car =
started to miss.=20
It cleared up for a while, and then</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>got very rough. Felt like a bad plug or maybe the =
carb was=20
loading up.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Backfired, missed, coughed through carb etc. Idles=20
fine.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I have done the following :</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; 1. changed plugs . that fixed it last=20
time</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; 2. tore a part and cleaned =
carb</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; 3. changed back to the original=20
distributor</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; 4. put on the timing =
light&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; I have hooked the vacuum advance line =
to the=20
Edlebrock carb</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; The car actually runs better with the =
vaccum=20
advance disconnected.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; Any ideas on that=20
one&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Ken Swick<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:swickka@pa.net">swickka@pa.net</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HT=
ML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BDEEB4.E2F25C20--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 10:22:22 -0400
From: Steve Ochs <Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com>
Subject: re: Song Detector

Message text written by Jason Adcock
>Wow!  It does?  Is your radio option code UU6?  I have an AM/FM Delco
radio (with Eq.), but I
didn't know it had a song skip feature on the tape!  FWIW, mine's a 1984.
Do you know if all these
Delco cassette players (the UU6 models) have song skippers?
<

I checked my original vehicle invoice and mine is the UX1 radio option
(cost $500 in 1987).  I beleive this radio was new for '86 or '87 with the
5 band Eq, AM Stereo (Motorola CQuam), Auto reverse with tape search
(Blaupunkt tape deck), and 22 watts/channel.  This radio was used as an
upgrade in many GM vehicles for about 8 years (had one in my 1989 Blazer,
1992 Astro Van, 1995 Astro Van).  Sounds good although not enough power
with the T-tops out.

The way to identify the tape deck is the tape enters the wide way, eject
button on left under tape slot, Music Search switch to right of Eject, FF
and RWD at right under tape slot.  Buttons are either electronic or motor
assist (require only a light touch).



Steve Ochs aka N8TYS- Mfg. Engineer - GM Powertrain - Parma, Ohio
Transmission Division (4T60/65-E & 4L60-E) - Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com
The statements and opinions expressed here are NOT an official
statement of General Motors or the GM Powertrain Division

'96 DCM Impala SS (Naisso #1365)  '87 Olds Cutlass 442 (OCA #028505)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 10:37:00 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: No Pictures Please

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> I get nervous when I read some folks talking about getting pictures
> scanned, so I thought I'd just remind the list members that the only way
> to handle it is to put them on a web page and tell us where to look.
> Please do not send them to the list. Thanks!

Oh, c'mon Greg!!!! You know me better than that!! My web page hasn't
been updated for a while, so I thought I'd add to it. After all, how
long have I been on this list???

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 10:44:45 -0400
From: "James C. Smith" <beanman@vnet.net>
Subject: 1955 Holiday Coupe

I have a 1955 Holiday Coupe.  It is a one family-owner car, in good
condition.  I have not had it cranked in several years, and am concerned
about what preparation, if any should be done before trying to start it
now.  I do not want to cause any damage.  About 15 years ago we had it
overhauled and painted.  It is in good condition, but needs some work on
the interior.

Also, any ideas on the possible current market value?

Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 12:02:13 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: To V.D.: Yarde Update: 1969 98

In a message dated 98-10-03 09:29:52 EDT, you write:

<< Great news!!! Need : trunk lid, fenders, hubcaps(I lost one!!!), dashboard
stuff, seats,instrument cluster(maybe), steering column(only tilt),steering
wheel, power windows switches. More, but can not think right now. Would they
sell the whole car, if it is worth it??? I live in South Florida, so
shipping/transportation costs are a factor.Thanks for your help. Hope I can
return the favor someday
 '69 Olds Ninety-Eight Topless Bubba >>

The vehicle was surrounded by significant growth, but as it was a decent
example of a car from an era that I love, I beat back the briars and climbed
behind the wheel.

So the seats are useable.

I have a photo somewhere. One of many from that trip that I ~really~ gotta
scan!

(problems recalling which car was what year..)

Ah.

This pic brings new meaning to "overgrowth".
It is a white 4dr with vinyl top (roof prolly real rusty under there now).
Pic is from front but I think the trunk was OK....
Seats/dash slichtly cluttered, but I recall good cond.

(Hubcaps you can prolly get at a good swapmeet or at the TX Olds Nats....)

In pic, hood is slightly open (prolly just not closed properly & engine might
be gone - cannot remember), but I do not recall any collision damage and pic
shows good panels. OTOH with that kinda overgrowth, bottoms of all panels tend
to stay in contact with wet grasses.......

Purchase/Shipping.

This is something I have though about.
I had a potential parts car, a Jetstar 88, in Avenal, CA. That I fretted much
over before giving up on the epedition.

I have recently heard of another potential parts car in the Denver area.

Better for me for distance, but Transportation still a problem.

I have considered several possibilities for the Avenal car. Fly there and rent
the equipment to bring it back. Bus out there (2 boring days on the bus!) then
(one way?) rentals and 3+ days driving back.
Incidentally, I figured that a ~full~ car trailer is better that the trailer
that carries only the front wheels as you proll do not wanna waste time
checking rear axle for fluid and bearings and..... Well, it eliminates a lot
of variables, and other people agreee better for long hauls.

This place has so many cars that I can just imagine what the telephone
coversation might be like...
(When first arrived there, the "lady of the house" answered the door with a
bat.

But the Owner's father is pleasant to deal with.
Owner is in jail for... well having too many cars in the yarde....

I will return there next spring, and could help make arrangements then.

If I cannot have pic scanned soon, will have a copy sent to you.

K

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 12:13:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: RE: Exhaust FYI

> I am showing a mild layer of black soot. rearward of the side exhaust. I had
> thought the new duels would have the opposite effect. Freer exhaust on a
> system basically unchanged other than that, would lean out the system with
> more air flow ability. Stock computer, cam, carb, smog (O2 sender,
> functioning air pump even to both cats). Don't believe the Q-Jet has ever
> been modified to access adjustments. Stock HEI, 8.8 wires, proper (stock)
> gapped plugs. Any advice on adjusting the system to clear this up?

Before you start making any adjustments, you'll have to establish that
everything else is performing properly.  How old is the float?  Does the
inlet valve and seat show any wear?  Does the secondary air valve
move freely?  You'll need a service manual and dwell meter/scan tool to
verify the mixture control system.  There shouldn't be any
visible accumulation of soot with a well-running stock system, so the dual
exhaust shouldn't have had an impact on this; the Q-jet can compensate for
various amounts of air flow within a large enough range.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 18:31:01
From: <crl6420@online.no>
Subject: Re : Dear Santa......................

Well Mike, have you been a nice boy this year?
Santa...

At 3 Oct 98, you wrote
>If there's anybody out there that's wondering what to
>get me for Christmas....Go to alt.binaries.pictures.auto
>  click on '50 Olds wagan, and all your questions
>will be  answered..!!
>
>
>Mike
>
>PS.A very nice automobile
>
>
>"And the three men I admire most-
>the Father, Son, and the Holy Ghost-
>They caught the last train for the coast
>The day the music died................"
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 12:41:01 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: CCC Error Codes (or lack of)

On Saturday, October 03, 1998 1:38 AM, S-MAN [SMTP:super442@yahoo.com] wrote:
>
> ----$1.19 a gallon !!!!!! I get 93 for .99 a gallon....it's been as
> low as .79 for 87 a couple of weeks ago .

Wow, a brand name fuel??  I'm moving down to Georgia!

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 12:48:18 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: Song Detector

On Saturday, October 03, 1998 10:22 AM, Steve Ochs
[SMTP:Steve_Ochs@compuserve.com] wrote: > > I checked my original vehicle
invoice and mine is the UX1 radio option > (cost $500 in 1987).  I beleive this
radio was new for '86 or '87 with the > 5 band Eq, AM Stereo (Motorola CQuam),
Auto reverse with tape search > (Blaupunkt tape deck), and 22 watts/channel.
This radio was used as an > upgrade in many GM vehicles for about 8 years (had
one in my 1989 Blazer, > 1992 Astro Van, 1995 Astro Van).  Sounds good 
although
not enough power > with the T-tops out.

My original radio was a $605 option in 1984 and it a very good unit.  I think 
my
music quality actually decreased with the replacement of it with a Kenwood CD
player.

> The way to identify the tape deck is the tape enters the wide way, eject
> button on left under tape slot, Music Search switch to right of Eject, FF
> and RWD at right under tape slot.  Buttons are either electronic or motor
> assist (require only a light touch).

On mine, the tape does enter length-wise (the wide way) and under the deck,
there are three buttons (from left to right): Reverse, Stop/Eject, and Forward.
The 5-band equalizer is in the upper left, but to the right of two large
stacked round dials, for volume and digital tuning.  However, my RR/Eject/FF
buttons are mechanical, so I guess we're talking about different radios here.
FWIW, all mine says is AC-Delco, I think.  It might say Oldsmobile, but I know
it doesn't say Motorola or Blaupunkt.

BTW, this one ~does~ put out enough power to blast the muzak, even with the 
tops
out.  The only thing I'm afraid of is blowing out the speakers, although I do
have new Pioneer speakers in now, so that's not as critical.

Thanks.

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 12:46:18 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: CCC Error Codes (or lack of)

I buy Shell, Chevron, Texaco high test for anywhere in the high .90's to the
lowest 1.00's all over North Jawja.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, October 03, 1998 12:41 PM
Subject: RE: CCC Error Codes (or lack of)


>On Saturday, October 03, 1998 1:38 AM, S-MAN [SMTP:super442@yahoo.com]
wrote:
>>
>> ----$1.19 a gallon !!!!!! I get 93 for .99 a gallon....it's been as
>> low as .79 for 87 a couple of weeks ago .
>
>Wow, a brand name fuel??  I'm moving down to Georgia!
>
>Jason Adcock
>Blacksburg, VA
>E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
>Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 13:14:25 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Dremel tools & pot metal, Dynomation, excessive posting, the Spanish
Inquisition

First I apologize.
That last yarde-note, though Olds content, ~was~ intended to be sent private.
I copied the adressee's Emailbox name but never pasted it over the Chebucto
addresse.

Duh!

The local Big K-Mart is going out of buisiness. I stoped by on my way for
groceries (OK, mainly liquor) and picked up a Dremel Tool kit for $9.

<Gloat mode off>

Does anyone  know of a dremel bit that will scrape off the carburetor float
bowl deposite, but not damage the pot metal?
Karl has have tried the brush, which was not abrasive enough, the felt
polisher, actually used that up cleaning out threaded areas. All the other
bits either were inappropriate or just bit into the metal.

Rather not do that.

Oh, and further Rochester revelations; the Roe document insists that Q-Jet
jets should NOT be used in other carbs.

The jets I need now are prolly smaller than any Jet in any Q-Jet, but still a
depressing thought that Jets may have changed.

Yes!
I did just answer a question I posted nearly a month ago!
Early vs. late Jets!
Not advisable (by Doug Roe) to swap Q-Jet jets (late) into other carbs
(includes early 2-Jets.

KS? You readin this? Follow!

Karl has downloaded and am trying out the free demo of Dynamotion ($599 for
the full version) which is a 4-stroke engine wave simulator that emulates the
wave-pulses invoved in intake and exhaust systems. (Yes, like the Chrack 413
intake being optimized for resonance) Karl would like to see better graphics
and more user friendly for a $600 program. May have encountered demo glitches.
More later.

And I am looking into building an analogue (dial guage) fuel/air ratio
monitor. I am currently trying to find the Email adresses of the originators.
For those who have been following, the shematics for a digital (LED) version
are available as a link from the GN page, but the actual schematic is a part
of the BIY-EFI page!

[Build It Yourself - Electronic Fuel Injection]

(read as Karl is waaaaaay outclassed here)

It does not seem tough for me to build, but an LED output in SOM would be
inappropriate.
So I will make the project more of a challenge.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 07:51:05 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Car Alarms

The Lojack sounds like a nice idea, but my ideal system would be an
on-board cell phone tied to a GPS.  Have the car call me (or heck,
e-mail me!) and tell me where it's at to within about 30'.  I show up
with shotgun, Guido, and Luigi.  After a bit, THEN I call the cops.

A lot of people DO ignore car alarms in parking lots, I at least turn my
head to attempt to locate the suspect car.  It's the ones with cheap
alarms or alarms adjusted so sensitive that they go off when a raindrop
runs down the window that give the rest a bad name.  I think they do
work though, especially when parked at your house, like on the street
out front.  That's where every car theft or break-in I've heard about
here has happened.

If you've got a car that the thief REALLY wants and he won't settle for
anything else, they'll probably get it, using a tow-truck if need be.
If the theif is just out to steal a car for a quick buck,
transportation, etc, then he'll pass your car with the blinking light up
and go to the next car down the line.

Does anyone know of a source for the steering column lock to fit a
G-body?  How ugly are they?  Does the tilt-wheel still work?  Is it any
extra steps to get the car started or lock it up afterwards?

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 13:57:01 EDT
From: NjOlds@aol.com
Subject: Re: CCC Error Codes (or lack of)

My ' 87 Olds CS does the same thing when the code 12 flashes.  Code 12, I
understand, means the computer is working properly.

Enio Perdomo
' 87 Olds.CS
http://members.xoom.com/NjOlds/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 14:10:30 -0500 (EST)
From: Clayton Pierce <zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu>
Subject: add another to the fleet...

Hello...

My name is Clayton... I'm an Oldsmoholic...

Well... you knew I'd eventually do it...

Yep... I bought another Oldsmobile...

Couldn't pass this'n up... it was just callin' to me ;-)
Late last night I paid $150 for a 1979 Cutlass Supreme... 260, 2bbl, prob.
TH350, reasonably low rear end... black on black vinyl (cheap repaint a
couple of years ago)... buckets - console... Vin = 3R47F92416XXX which if
I read correctly... means it's a 260 car (duh!) made at the St. Hyacinth,
Quebec plant.  I drove it home (yes... I actually bought a ~running~ car)
last night.  It seems pretty tight and rust-free actually... I couldn't
find any "mud" beneath the paint... and after removing a little bit of the
trim (the paint shop evidentally didn't bother) I could see the original
(or at least earlier) paint on the bottome of the door and 1/4 panel... no
rust there ;-).  Interior is reasonable... back seat is nice... front
seats need recovered... dash is in decent shape with no large cracks...
but is gonna need the armor-all laid to it for a little while to soften it
up on top.  Door panels are very nice... and the car has a BRAND NEW
headliner and visors in it.  The car is a high miles car... and the old
260 does use some oil.  Also the transmission linkage needs some attention
and the floor shifter needs to be replaced (have one of them in my '84 if
it's the same... anyone know?)  Frame is pretty well rust free as is the
rear bumper (lucky eh?) though the front bumper has got some rust.  Waxed
it today... and it looks REAL NICE... from about 20 feet away ;-) up close
you can see all the defects inherint with a cheap paintjob...  More news
later... probably have pics. up on the net within the week ;-)


    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
 |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
 |  |  |
 |  |  |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
 | / \ |
 |/   \|     1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
  \   /         (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
   \ /          http://www.442.com/pierce.html
    |        1980 Rover 3500 SD1
	        (215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/othercars.html
     	     1979 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
		(260 V8, 2bbl, TH350)
	     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
		(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/bonneville.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 15:06:26 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Timing Chain

I'm sitting here watching Shadetree Mechanic (no Cutlass this time...) and
they're talking about breaking timing belts/chains.

I've heard that the Olds V8 timing chains get loose over time or break.  Would
the pistons hit the valves if the timing chain did break?  And, if I had a
super loose timing chain, would that be contributing to my pinging problem?
I've got 93k miles on it, so I figured that the timing chain might be playing a
factor now, no?

Thanks, Oldsheads.

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 14:59:33 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: 2- Jet Jets was: Dremel tools & pot metal, etc.

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:

> The jets I need now are prolly smaller than any Jet in any Q-Jet, but still a
> depressing thought that Jets may have changed.
>
> Yes!
> I did just answer a question I posted nearly a month ago!
> Early vs. late Jets!
> Not advisable (by Doug Roe) to swap Q-Jet jets (late) into other carbs
> (includes early 2-Jets.

        Karl,

        If I follow your thread correctly, you're looking for jets for a 2GC.  
A
possible source is CarbTech.  I e-mailed them asking about a whole variety of
2GC jets and they said they could get me what I needed for $5.00 a pair, plus
shipping (that's about the same as a pair of Holley jets). I haven't purchased
any, yet.  But it may be worth a try for you.  Here is their information:

          Carbtech
700 E. Lambert # H
La Habra, CA. 90631
   (562) 694-1296

jcedeno@carbtech.com

        Hope this helps,

        Thomas P. Smith
        1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 15:19:37 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: Gas

Gas here in Orchard Park NY $1.07 for regular, $1.28
for Hi-test, when I was in Hawaii last March on vacation
regular gas was $2.00 a gallon, sure would'nt want to fill
up the 442 there.

Ron Haun (rghayn@aol.com)
Orchard Park, NY (GO BILLS)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 15:17:17 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Re: Timing Chain

From:          Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>


I've heard that the Olds V8 timing chains get loose over time or break.  Would
the pistons hit the valves if the timing chain did break?  And, if I had a
super loose timing chain, would that be contributing to my pinging problem?
I've got 93k miles on it, so I figured that the timing chain might be playing a
factor now, no?

Jason..... and others

Just a note since timing chains are the subject... My '86 442's problems have
been solved with the addition of new timing chain and gears. Seems the chain
got so worn and loose (186,000 miles) that the timing got so off that the car
would not start. My resident Olds Doctor replaced chain and gears and all seems
to be doing fine. I don't think Jason's 93k on his Salon would create any kind
of problem with chain becoming loose enough to cause any probs..!! Pinging
should be resolved with some minor timing adjustments and use of a good high
octane fuel..!!

Later and it's starting to rain here in Montgomery county which should , for 
all
 practical resons, cancell the Fast Freddies extravaganza..!!

Later and thanx to all that contributed possible solutions to my 442's
illness..!!


Mike Hamlin
Ironto Va

'86 442
'86 Supreme
'71 Monte




"And the three men I admire most-
the Father, Son, and the Holy Ghost-
They caught the last train for the coast
The day the music died................"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 12:23:46 -0700
From: "Bruce Camilli" <bcam@vel.net>
Subject: New Olds atleast for ME

I treated myself to a birthday present and thought you all might want to see a
picture of it. The car actually looks this nice and I got it for a better price
than they were asking. You can see my 1970 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Convertible at:

http://www.wwwheels.com/cfapps/ascar.cfm?ID=353763

Now that I have two I guess I am going to have to build a web page.
Thank you all for making me realize Oldsmobiles are the sexiest cars on the
road! Bruce Camilli 1975 Olds Delta 88 Royale Convertible 455ci 1970 Olds Delta
88 Convertible 350ci

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 15:24:15 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Timing Chain

Jason Adcock wrote:

> I've heard that the Olds V8 timing chains get loose over time or break.

I'd say just about any chain would, given enough time.

> Would the pistons hit the
> valves if the timing chain did break?

My guess is that flat or domed pistons will definitely hit, but dished pistons
may just miss the valve.  Any other opinions here?

> And, if I had a super loose timing chain, would that be
> contributing to my pinging problem?

Can't say for sure.  But it sounds plausible.  Again, any other thoughts?

> I've got 93k miles on it, so I figured that the timing chain
> might be playing a factor now, no?

I've got 250,000 on my original unrebuilt 350 and the chain has been replaced
once.  That was somewhere around 200,000.

        Have fun,

        Thomas P. Smith
        1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 13:42:57 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: No Pictures Please

> > to handle it is to put them on a web page and tell us where to look.
> > Please do not send them to the list. Thanks!
>
> Oh, c'mon Greg!!!!

With the amount of new folks here, and the past experiences on how well people
read the welcome messages (Can anyone tell me how to get off this list?....  Ya
know what I mean! :)  All it takes is a "me too" error on the picture game to
really make a mess (Hmm...  now that you mention it, ~I~ just got a picture
back, too!  Here it is for all to see"  Uh oh.  Don't take it personally Matt,
it's only an attempt to avert a tragedy.  After all, ~someday~ we're going to
have a ~big~ list reunion somewhere, where everyone can meet everyone
personally. (someday, maybe...  it ~would~ be neat...)  but all the digest 
folks
will show up with pages of binary garbage, and names of the senders.....  :)


> After all, how long have I been on this list???

Umm...  ~I've~ been here forever, and I ~still~ find myself posting private
stuff publicly.  No one's immuned from goof-ups.  (aka stupidity, when 
referring
to one's ~own~ errors...  :)


Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 15:45:38 EDT
From: RGHaun@aol.com
Subject: info

Please delete me off the mail list, going on vacation for
2 weeks to Arizona where it's warm, this New York cold sucks.

Ron Haun (rghaun@aol.com)
71 442 W30 Red Convert.
see you later

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 13:52:20 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Gas

> Hawaii last March on vacation regular gas was $2.00 a gallon,
> sure would'nt want to fill up the 442 there.

Yeah, but it's one hell of a drive home!  :)

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
   \ | / =========================== \ | /    |<||=|  |   |   |
    \|/  List Removal and Guidelines  \|/     |/ |=|  |  / \  |
     V   ===========================   V      |\/|=|  | / | \ |
  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm   |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 01:58:08 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: Re: Water Pump Fail

My best time for a water pump change is about 1:45.  This was in a
thrigft store parking lot in Truth or Cosequences, NM.  I've changed the
damn thing so many times, I think I could do it in about five minutes
now.

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA
- -
On Fri, 02 Oct 1998 23:34:14 -0400 Jerry Christopher
<ithefunki@cchat.com> writes:
>Dave Cullen wrote:
>>
>> Sure sounds like water pump to me. Just did one on my 307.  $35
>> A 4- beer job.
>
>I can say the hardest part was getting the damn belts outta the way...
>
>$35, and a 6-Beer for me  (Took me about 4 hours total, but I cheated,
>I
>was three in before trying)
>
>--
>                - Jerry Christopher -
>IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
>       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI
>
>
>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Oct 1998 13:01:53 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: CCC Codes

Jason,

That tick-tick-tick is perfectly normal, it's the mixture control
solenoid in the carburetor cycling.  If you poke your head around you
should hear it coming from the carb area.

Code 12 is normal (means no signal from tach.  Duh, the engine isn't
started).

And yeah, that guy at the auto store was backwards.  Maybe he thought
you WANTED ping??

. . . And to add my thought on the hidden kill switch idea.  I've got a
hidden kill switch (which is actually a key switch) wired in series with
a relay that's hooked to the brake lights.  You have to step on the
brake to crank the engine, and even that won't work if I flip the kill
switch.

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 16:16:01 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Classifieds in the paper

Found in the weekend edition of the Roanoke Va classifieds...


OLDS - 71 442, all orig., 455 eng., newly rebuilt. body & int. needs
restoration. $2800 540-921-1442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 16:18:34 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Timing Chain

> Would the pistons hit the
> valves if the timing chain did break?

My guess is that flat or domed pistons will definitely hit, but dished
pistons may just miss the valve.  Any other opinions here?
___________

In my one experience of actually tossing a timing chain (hey, the teeth on
the nylon cam gear would best be described as "nibs"), I did not kiss the
valves.  This was a 72(?) Olds 350 (at the time, the motor was on its third
car) and I just replaced the chain and gears and went on my merry way.  On
the other hand, I've worked on friends' cars where the valves did impact.

==============

> I've got 93k miles on it, so I figured that the timing chain
> might be playing a factor now, no?
___________

Don't know about pinging, but a loose chain will definitely play havoc with
your timing.  Despite others' tales of high miles on a timing chain, my
rule of thumb is 80,000 miles max on a chain (especially with plastic
gears) and 50,000 miles on a timing belt.  To me, changing at these limits
is just cheap insurance.  Given the experiences of others on this list, I
suspect that timing chain quality (and thus allowable mileage) has degraded
over the past couple of decades.  With 104,000 on the clock, a Dynagear
roller chain is the first thing I'm doing on the new 69 this weekend.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1527
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