Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1597


oldsmobile-digest     Tuesday, November 10 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1597



Re: info please
Re: Exhaust Restrictor???  Hmm . . .
NON OLDS - respond privately please
An Olds on TV
Re: Cam and manifold ID's
Metal in OIL Part II
Re: Interior Painting
DeskTop Dyno
Pitman arm for 72 supreme
Re: An Olds on TV
Need a bargin coach car???????????
Re: An Olds on TV
Request for Standard 442 Road Test
More Q-jet ?'s (was ...dead lean)
Re: An Olds on TV
Re: Request for Standard 442 Road Test
Re: no volts at starter ????
Re: Cam and manifold ID's
Re: no volts at starter ????
Insurance
Re: Tail light sockets for '72 Cutlass
RE: Tail light sockets for '72 Cutlass
Re: line-locks operation question.
Re: Metal in OIL Part II
Re: Metal in OIL Part II
Re: Metal in OIL Part II
anyone with '68, 350 A/C 
RE: Tail light sockets for '72 Cutlass
Re: line-locks operation question.
Re: Tail light sockets for '72 Cutlass
Re: Exhaust Restrictor???  Hmm . . .
Re: line-locks operation question.
Re: "Hangers" and block ID
Re: Nov JWO I'm fixing it for December!!
Re: Nov JWO I'm fixing it for December!!
Re: Metal in OIL Part II
Re: Exhaust Restrictor???  Hmm . . .
RE: Insurance
Re: Exhaust Restrictor???  Hmm . . .
Re: Re: Exhaust Restrictor???  Hmm . . .
RE: Tail light sockets for '72 Cutlass
Re: Tail light sockets for '72 Cutlass
Re: engine rebuilders in WashDC
unsubscribe oldsmobile
Re: DeskTop Dyno
Hurst Olds Vista Cruiser?
OCA Web Site
Re: Hurst Olds Vista Cruiser?
Re: Tail light sockets for '72 Cutlass
WANTED: hood/bumper/grills for 71 Cutlass
Holiday
1971 Cutlas
Re: An Olds on TV
Re: Request for Standard 442 Road Test

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 21:23:24 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: info please

Sprotten25@aol.com wrote:
> 
>      I have a couple of questions what does f-85 mean? It is printed on a
> sticker on the door of my car. Where can i find FAQ and how do i use it? This
> # is stamped on the filler tube is there any way i can tell what motor it is?
> 9276562.  Is there any where/way i can de code my vin to 
find:color,trim,other
> important info?
> 
> thanks in advance
> 
> Dino
> 69 f-85


Dino,

The F-85 designation is a progression of Oldsmobile 
model codes dating back to the 30's (or farther).  
In the case of your 1969, the F-85 was the base model 
from which the Cutlass, Cutlass S, Cutlass Supreme and 
4-4-2 were based upon.   
The number stamped on the oil fill tube is the engine 
unit number.  This code does not indicate engine size.  
The first digit indicates the year of mfg. Followed by
the serial number of the engine itself. The casting 
number located between the oil fill tube and the 
oil pressure sending unit will identify the engines 
displacement.  A 69 350 will have casting number
395558 2. 
As far as determining interior and exterior colors,
these codes are located on the trim tag located under
the hood on the cowl.  

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 21:37:20 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Restrictor???  Hmm . . .

At 12:05 AM 11/10/98 -0500, you wrote:
>My 1966 CUtlass does the same thing. When you start it, only steam comes out
>of the left pipe. After running for about 10 minutes, both pipes are
steaming.
>My dads 68 CUtlass does it, my moms Chrysler does it (318 2bbl :P) and my
dads
>chevelle does it. My friends Trans Am does it too, so yeah, its stock i'd
say.
>Kelly Erickson

this pushes exaust gasses through the intake manifold under the carb to help 
speed warm-up. 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 00:20:45 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: NON OLDS - respond privately please

Can someone please tell me (PRIVATELY!) if there is a P#nti*c version of
this mailing list and/or a P#nti*c version of 442.com?  I am looking for a
forum to sell my Firechicken - the Houston Chronicle and AutoTrader Online
have yielded no results.
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 01:20:39 -0500 (EST)
From: jtherndon@webtv.net (Jeff Herndon)
Subject: An Olds on TV

I taped "The Simpson's" last night and recorded "That 70's Show"
afterward by accident. I decided to watch both shows tonight and was
surprised to see that the family car they use in "That 70's Show" is a
Vista Cruiser. The kids took it to a "new" disco in Kenosha (Wis?) and
the car was prominent in several scenes, although it was never shown
actually running/rolling. Nice frontal and side shots though, with a
close-up of one of the scripted "Vista Cruiser" emblems. The car
appeared well worn, but the top glass was still there. I have no clue of
the year, but the show is set in 1976 (I'm sure that means nothing). Did
anyone else see this show and can maybe offer an ID of the year. I'm
behind on my digest reading, so appologies if anyone has covered this
already.

Jeff Herndon
86 CS 307Y

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 22:13:24 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Cam and manifold ID's

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
 
> According to Year One, the 4bbl cams are "bigger" (their word).
> ________
> 
> I'll wager they are referring to the MT cam.  Note, however, that it is
> commonplace to grind so-called "cheater cams" for stock class racing.
> Since what really matters is duration at a lift number like 0.050", as
> opposed to 0", cam grinders will craft a lobe profile which has a much
> faster opening and closing ramp, but the same advertised duration, lift,
> and overlap.  The result is a cam with much more valve "curtain" time, and
> a resulting increase in air moved into and out of the combustion chamber.
> It isn't the absolute numbers that matter as much as the area under the
> curve.




Actually, "cheater cams" will have a substantial increase
in duration (SAE spec and .050).  As per NHRA rules for 
Stock Eliminator, the only requirement is that original LIFT 
must be retained.  This leaves the door open for
"adjustments" 
in valve timing, duration and overlap.  Resulting in a cam 
that provides much more air flow than only changing the
valve
timing events.    


 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 23:55:40 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Metal in OIL Part II

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I went by the bodyshop today and changed the oil in the 455.  There was =
virtually nothing in the oil or the drain pan, looks good.  But when I =
pull the dipstick, there is metal.  EVEN with brand new oil without =
starting it.  Must be the dip-stick, but I don't know.  With no oil the =
motor, dipstick would still pull out some metal, but not much.  And them =
the worst thing happened.  When I went to start it after the oil change =
(about 1 hour) I just turned the key with no gas.  It started right away =
but ran at like 250 rpm for a half-second until it smoothed out.  During =
this time there was a loud DUM DUM DUM TIC TIC.  I think that it was the =
large stock air-cleaner (like 1 inch clearance from fenders on the '81) =
hitting the plastic fender as the motor shook.  Scared the shit out of =
me.  But I am not sure so it could have been motor knock.  Why would =
this happen.  No oil in the pump so it took a sec. for it to get some =
oil, making noise in the process.  The car sat for 1 week in sub-zero =
temps.  Fired right up, worked good.  I took it out for a spin (dry =
roads) just to see if it runs good and it will still howl the tires for =
ever.  I am confused.  Old oil, metal from dipstick.  No oil, still =
little metal.  New oil both before and after start, metal.  There just =
seams to be too much metal to be just from the dipstick.  I remember =
when I installed that damn thing I heard it hit the crank as I was =
pushing it in.  I repositioned it and it seamed to clear.  I figure the =
dipstick could still be touching the crank (the housing of the dipstick) =
and slowly grinding away.  I don't know what else to think.  I got all =
my money in this car and can't afford to have a bad engine.  As soon as =
I get it back, the intake and valve covers are going off just so that I =
can look into this motor.  I will change the cam while I am at it, get =
some more higher RPM rump.  Anyone have anything good/bad to say about =
the Edelbrock Intake.  By the way, I got a magnetic oil plug for it so =
again as soon as it comes home, changing the oil again and taking a =
look.  Damn thing.  Igor.

Igor T.

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)

igor455@home.com=20

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<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>I went by the bodyshop today and changed the oil in the 455.&nbsp; =
There=20
was virtually nothing in the oil or the drain pan, looks good.&nbsp; But =
when I=20
pull the dipstick, there is metal.&nbsp; EVEN with brand new oil without =

starting it.&nbsp; Must be the dip-stick, but I don't know.&nbsp; With =
no oil=20
the motor, dipstick would still pull out some metal, but not much.&nbsp; =
And=20
them the worst thing happened.&nbsp; When I went to start it after the =
oil=20
change (about 1 hour) I just turned the key with no gas.&nbsp; It =
started right=20
away but ran at like 250 rpm for a half-second until it smoothed =
out.&nbsp;=20
During this time there was a loud DUM DUM DUM TIC TIC.&nbsp; I think =
that it was=20
the large stock air-cleaner (like 1 inch clearance from fenders on the =
'81)=20
hitting the plastic fender as the motor shook.&nbsp; Scared the shit out =
of=20
me.&nbsp; But I am not sure so it could have been motor knock.&nbsp; Why =
would=20
this happen.&nbsp; No oil in the pump so it took a sec. for it to get =
some oil,=20
making noise in the process.&nbsp; The car sat for 1 week in sub-zero=20
temps.&nbsp; Fired right up, worked good.&nbsp; I took it out for a spin =
(dry=20
roads) just to see if it runs good and it will still howl the tires for=20
ever.&nbsp; I am confused.&nbsp; Old oil, metal from dipstick.&nbsp; No =
oil,=20
still little metal.&nbsp; New oil both before and after start, =
metal.&nbsp;=20
There just seams to be too much metal to be just from the =
dipstick.&nbsp; I=20
remember when I installed that damn thing I heard it hit the crank as I =
was=20
pushing it in.&nbsp; I repositioned it and it seamed to clear.&nbsp; I =
figure=20
the dipstick could still be touching the crank (the housing of the =
dipstick) and=20
slowly grinding away.&nbsp; I don't know what else to think.&nbsp; I got =
all my=20
money in this car and can't afford to have a bad engine.&nbsp; As soon =
as I get=20
it back, the intake and valve covers are going off just so that I can =
look into=20
this motor.&nbsp; I will change the cam while I am at it, get some more =
higher=20
RPM rump.&nbsp; Anyone have anything good/bad to say about the Edelbrock =

Intake.&nbsp; By the way, I got a magnetic oil plug for it so again as =
soon as=20
it comes home, changing the oil again and taking a look.&nbsp; Damn =
thing.&nbsp;=20
Igor.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Igor T.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><A href=3D"mailto:igor455@home.com">igor455@home.com</A> =
</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 23:57:52 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Interior Painting

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????????.  What do you mean "blue".  I just got a new computer so maybe =
something is screwed.
    -----Original Message-----
    From: Ray Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
    To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
    Date: November 9, 1998 8:35 PM
    Subject: RE: Interior Painting
   =20
   =20
    Hey Igor,
    You got some new fancy font setup or something?  Why am I blue?
   =20
   =20
    Ray=20

    -----Original Message-----
    From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca =
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Igor T. '81 DRB 455
    Sent: Monday, November 09, 1998 12:31 PM
    To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
    Subject: Interior Painting
   =20
   =20
    I am soon to get my car back from the body shop.  The car will be =
metallic blue with silver stripes.  The interior is old, warn gold.  I =
would like to change it to gray.  My dad does seats, so he will be =
willing to reupholster a set of buckets (by the way, which car will =
buckets fit from.  A few times at the local yard I have seen the black =
swivel in a Cutlass or a Regal.  Will these fit my '81 Delta).  I will =
change the carpet and headliner to gray.  The door upholstery my dad can =
also do.  However, as far as the plastic trim goes, is there paint that =
you can get to paint this.  If so, what kind of results am I looking at. =
 Decent look or look-like-it-was-painted-ugly look.  Thanks.
   =20
    Igor Todorovic
   =20
    1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
    1981 Regency (307/th2004r/propane)
    1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)
   =20
    igor455@home.com=20

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>????????.&nbsp; What do you mean=20
&quot;blue&quot;.&nbsp; I just got a new computer so maybe something is=20
screwed.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Ray Costanzo &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com">costanzo@netcarrier.com</A>&gt;<B=
R><B>To:=20
    </B><A =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>=20
    &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>November 9, 1998 8:35 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>RE: Interior=20
    Painting<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><SPAN class=3D320243003-10111998><FONT color=3D#0000ff =
face=3DArial=20
    size=3D2>Hey Igor,</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
    <DIV><SPAN class=3D320243003-10111998><FONT color=3D#0000ff =
face=3DArial=20
    size=3D2></FONT></SPAN><SPAN class=3D320243003-10111998><FONT =
color=3D#0000ff=20
    face=3DArial size=3D2>You got some new fancy font setup or =
something?&nbsp; Why=20
    am I blue?<BR><BR>
    <P><FONT size=3D2>Ray </FONT></FONT></SPAN></P></DIV>
    <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"=20
    size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> <A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile-owner@chebucto=
.ns.ca</A>=20
    [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]<B>On Behalf Of</B> Igor T. =
'81 DRB=20
    455<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, November 09, 1998 12:31 PM<BR><B>To:</B> =

    oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca<BR><B>Subject:</B> Interior=20
    Painting<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV>I am soon to get my car back from the body shop.&nbsp; The car =
will be=20
    metallic blue with silver stripes.&nbsp; The interior is old, warn=20
    gold.&nbsp; I would like to change it to gray.&nbsp; My dad does =
seats, so=20
    he will be willing to reupholster a set of buckets (by the way, =
which car=20
    will buckets fit from.&nbsp; A few times at the local yard I have =
seen the=20
    black swivel in a Cutlass or a Regal.&nbsp; Will these fit my '81=20
    Delta).&nbsp; I will change the carpet and headliner to gray.&nbsp; =
The door=20
    upholstery my dad can also do.&nbsp; However, as far as the plastic =
trim=20
    goes, is there paint that you can get to paint this.&nbsp; If so, =
what kind=20
    of results am I looking at.&nbsp; Decent look or=20
    look-like-it-was-painted-ugly look.&nbsp; Thanks.</DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV>
    <DIV>Igor Todorovic</DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV>1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)</DIV>
    <DIV>1981 Regency (307/th2004r/propane)</DIV>
    <DIV>1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)</DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><A href=3D"mailto:igor455@home.com">igor455@home.com</A>=20
</DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 00:32:15 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: DeskTop Dyno

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I was just looking at the order form for a Desktop Dyno.  It with =
Desktop Dragstrip is like $85 US which with S&H here in Canada is about =
$150.  Before I ever decide to spend this money (can get a real cam for =
it) has anyone had any experience with it.  Anyone know if it is =
good/bad and worth the money.  Maybe anyone know where I can download it =
from for no money :-) Any other cheap/free software or shareware that =
works good as well and where to get it.  Thanks. igor455@home.com=20

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I was just looking at the order form =
for a=20
Desktop Dyno.&nbsp; It with Desktop Dragstrip is like $85 US which with =
S&amp;H=20
here in Canada is about $150.&nbsp; Before I ever decide to spend this =
money=20
(can get a real cam for it) has anyone had any experience with it.&nbsp; =
Anyone=20
know if it is good/bad and worth the money.&nbsp; Maybe anyone know =
where I can=20
download it from for no money :-) Any other cheap/free software or =
shareware=20
that works good as well and where to get it.&nbsp; Thanks. <A=20
href=3D"mailto:igor455@home.com">igor455@home.com</A> =
</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 00:58:07 -0700
From: "David Litke" <dlitke@bewellnet.com>
Subject: Pitman arm for 72 supreme

Hey all,
	I was wondering if anyone had a new or used pitman arm for a 72 supreme
for a reasonable price. Help, my non-wear item is worn out!!   I can get
one that is supposed to work for 46 bucks in town.  I'd like to get one for
less than 46 bucks and I'm not in a big hurry.  Also if anyone knows what
other cars I can get a pitman arm from that will work that would be
appreciated also. I think that the sloppy pitman arm is part of the reason
for the loosness in the steering and part of the reason that my tires got
out of round. 

My e-mail address is dlitke@bewellnet.com
Thanks all, David Litke

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 03:20:27 EST
From: LooseCanno@aol.com
Subject: Re: An Olds on TV

That was the best That '70's Show ever, as far as the Vista was concerned...
They showed the close up of the emblem for about 5 seconds!

I'm liking the show a lot more now.. somehow, the Olds wagon just makes an
average period-set TV show more realistic and more interesting.

Can you imagine if Buddy Faro switched to a '73 convertible Ninety Eight?  Or
if JAG had a nice 4-4-2 project on the side?  How about Ally McBeal dreaming
of a pleasure cruise in a '57 Super?

I'm telling you, I will get these stucio execs on the wave if it kills me!

Erik
'69 Cutlass S convertible - ailin'

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 05:00:56 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Need a bargin coach car???????????

Found these babies while surfing the other night. Thought I'd pass this along 
to the 
list..!! Sounds like some good, gruesome deals..!!!


1975 Oldsmobile Ninety-Eight Landau Hearse by Cotner-Bevington: Blue with blue
interior, very nice car, 455cu. in. V/8 with a Turbo 400 automatic 
transmission,
54,000 miles, air, ps, pb, $1,800.00.

1983 Oldsmobile Hearse by Eureka: Silver over maroon, 74,000 miles, $2,750.00.

1984 Oldsmobile Hearse by Eagle: Black/black, 47,000 miles, tail stretch, 
$2,500.00.

1985 Oldsmobile Hearse by Century: Silver/silver, 54,000 miles, wire wheel 
covers,
$3,900.00.


"Anyone who drives slower than you is an Idiot....
 Anyone who drives faster than you is a Maniac..."

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 07:44:49 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: An Olds on TV

There was a good front end shot of it showing it to be another nice rust free
'69 from sunny California.  They should have used a rusted out hulk to
represent a 7 year old northern car.  I'm just glad they used a Vista.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 09:08:11 -0500
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: Request for Standard 442 Road Test

I am looking for  an actual road test of the standard 442 from 1970 (NON
W-30). All of the road test I have read is for the W-30. Does anyone on the
list have such a road test they could copy or point me to one? I have the
book "Oldsmobile Muscle Cars" but they only have the W-30 test. Someone must
have done a road test of the standard 442, right????

I am only in the digest mode (too much work to do) right now, so please
reply to me directly.

Thanks
Bobby

betzel@gte.net <mailto:betzel@gte.net> 

bobby.etzel@gsc.gte.com <mailto:bobby.etzel@gsc.gte.com> 


70 442 Escape Back to the.... Past 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 08:45:57 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: More Q-jet ?'s (was ...dead lean)

In a previous post I described prob's with carb running overly lean & 
inability to adjust.  To which I received response suggesting:

1.  Need to check float bowl - float level

2. Need for larger primary jets.

If I read the FAQ right, Q-jets for W-31's used primary jets of size .074. 

Is that correct?

tia

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 06:40:21 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: An Olds on TV

> There was a good front end shot of it showing it to be another
> nice rust free '69 from sunny California.  They should have used
> a rusted out hulk to represent a 7 year old northern car.  I'm
> just glad they used a Vista.

Hear, hear. But actually it _is_ rusted and faded a little. The
woodgrain over the wheel arches is faded out and the car has some
minor rust along the lower seams. It also has a great K-mart-quality
black steering wheel cover, the kind with the plastic lace that never
goes on tight enough... For what would be a seven-year-old GM wagon
in the midwest, I'd say it's weathered just right, if not a little
too much. TV Guide back in September had a fold-out ad for the show
on their inside front cover that was a crystal-clear side shot of
the wagon; you could even read the brand names on the tires.

I grew up in the area at that time and even had a similar wagon 
(ours was a '69 Pontiac instead of a '69 Olds). This show brings
back memories so accurate it hurts...  :-)

- --
Andrew C. Green             (312) 853-8331
Datalogics, Inc.            email: acg@datalogics.com
101 N. Wacker, Ste. 1800    http://www.datalogics.com
Chicago, IL  60606-7301     Fax: (312) 853-8282


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 09:40:11 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: Request for Standard 442 Road Test

I would be interested in getting my hands on a copy also.  If someone has a
copy reply to me and not the list.  As the owner of a plain old 4-4-2, not a
W-30, I feel like a stepchild when looking for info.  The plain cars were much
more common than the W-30 or 31 cars and they were the ones that ended up on
the scrap heap due to hard use and abuse.  The fancy models usually did not
get used up, so they survived.  Although I do know of one 69 H/O with a flat
roof!

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

Wyatt_David_L@Lilly.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 10:04:47 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: no volts at starter ????

In a message dated 98-11-09 11:52:52 EST, you write:

<<  no cranking - starter clicks but does not turn - smoke from under the
 hood - >>

2 Qs.

How much clicking?
Just the solenoid pop, or more than that?

Okay, four Q's!

How much smoke?
Last time Karl saw smoke from under the hood it was a ground wire (Batt -
fender) burning off its insulation because the batt cables were old and needed
replacing.
This is not counting the smoke-from-the-new-wiper-motor episode, because SOM's
hood was open then.

If there is any question, both batt cables should be replaced!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 10:04:48 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Cam and manifold ID's

In a message dated 98-11-08 23:17:10 EST, you write:

<< First, what is the difference between the camshafts used on 2bbl and 4bbl
1971 Cutlasses, both with 350 CID, automatic trans, A/C, and 8.5:1
compression?  In other words, what's the difference in camshafts between 1971
engine code QJ and QP? >>

No real knowlege of 1971 engines.
Bet Karl knows anyway.

Same as 1965 2v 425 vs. "98" engine (30 more horsies).....

Answer... a 4v carb (4GC then).
So far as Karl knows...same cam.

J and P prolly reference the 2 and 4v intakes.

Seriously.
Thats how much performance is dependent on airflow.

Convince yourself - FAQ does have some cam specs in it!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 10:15:55 -0500
From: David Booker <dbooker@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: no volts at starter ????

>In a message dated 98-11-09 11:52:52 EST, you write:
>
><<  no cranking - starter clicks but does not turn - smoke from under the
> hood - >>
>


Have just gone thru this with my '69 442 convert.  It was a stuck solenoid
that prevented the starter gear from disengaging the flywheel.  I had smoke
from the battery ground cable. The wire was taking the full electrical load
that would have ordinarily been spent in turning the starter.

I just replaced the starter ('bout $40 at AutoZone and 3 hours last Sat).
Works like a champ!

David Booker
Atlanta

'69 442 Conv (w/w/w 400 AT mint)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 07:27:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Insurance

I really hate to bother the list with this whole insurance bit again,
I am sorry. So, please e-mail any responses privately. I was wondering
if insurance companies are going to consider my car less valuable
since it is a 69 but it has a 70 engine in it. I talked to the agent
yesterday and found out on where they were coming up with the $2,000
value they have on the car. That is book value of a car that has never
been touched since 69! So, he told me that now I have to prove that
the car was just redone. (Thank god I kept ALL the receipts!) But, as
I was going through this, I came across the ones from when I had the
block baked and the cylinders honed and it says that it was on a 70
Olds 350. This brought fear into me thinking that they are going to
see that and say that since my engine isn't the original, the car
isn't worth anything. Can someone out there set my mind at ease?

Thanks,
Del 




==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 09:57:37 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Tail light sockets for '72 Cutlass

Easiest way to get at the tail lights is to pull the 2 rear 
bumper bracket bolts where the bracket bolts to the frame.
Then by loosening the front 2 just a bit (maybe not at all) the
bumper and all will drop down and the tail light will be right
there.  If you check your local parts stores they have
replacement sockets that will crimp in once you peel the old
one off.  Keep in mind that the quality at the chain stores is 
usually not as good as those at the smaller or local only ones
and it is a very common socket.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

> I'm new to the Olds hobby so excuse my basic question.
>Some tail light sockets on my 72 Cutlass Conv have lost
>their "springy-ness" and hence not making good contact with
>the bulbs. How's the easiest way to replace these sockets ?
>Does the bumper need to be taken off first or is there
>an easier way ?
>
>Thanks,
>Don
>'72 Cutlass Conv
>'91 Calais I-Series
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 11:01:50 -0500
From: Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca
Subject: RE: Tail light sockets for '72 Cutlass

Usually, the dirt accumulation is what causes the spring behind the
connector to stick. Have you tried cleaning the socket with a spray solvent
(WD-40). Remove excess before you turn the lights on!! The sockets are an
integral part of the housing so trying to replace just the socket is more
trouble than it's worth. To remove the entire housing, you usually need to
remove or at least set the bumper back to get at the housing screws, 2 per
light fixture. The have a mud guard which makes it virtually impossible to
get at while the bumper is installed. If you look underneath you will see
what I'm talking about. If you replace them, you can get them probably from
a few people on the list. I have spares but I live in Ontario Canada, and
the shipping would cost you extra. You can use light fixtures from both the
'71 and '72 models. They are both the same. Just the outside lenses change.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Donald B Cart [SMTP:dcart@micro.ti.com]
> Sent:	Monday, November 09, 1998 7:58 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Tail light sockets for '72 Cutlass
> 
> 
>  I'm new to the Olds hobby so excuse my basic question.
> Some tail light sockets on my 72 Cutlass Conv have lost
> their "springy-ness" and hence not making good contact with
> the bulbs. How's the easiest way to replace these sockets ?
> Does the bumper need to be taken off first or is there
> an easier way ?
> 
> Thanks,
> Don
> '72 Cutlass Conv
> '91 Calais I-Series

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 10:23:54 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: line-locks operation question.

If you engaged it while driving nothing would happen.  You would lock the
brakes open for a second but if the line lock is wired correctly you would
have to hit the button to do it and when you released the button the line
lock would disengage.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme
BTW it was me who said it was fine to run at 230 degrees for a short
time.  Provided you have proper coolant to elevate the boiling point.

>Hi geniuses.
>What would happen if you inadvertently engaged linelocks while driving.
>Would your brakes then lock in the open position and when you hit the brake
>pedal to slow down, for a traffic light let's say, only your back brakes
>would engage?
>
>Ray Costanzo
>87 409 Cutlass
>Bucks County, PA
>costanzo@netcarrier.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 07:14:51 -0500
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Metal in OIL Part II

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_016A_01BE0C79.CEEF06A0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Two thoughts...

Are you prefilling the oil filter with oil before installing it?  If you =
put it in dry, it takes a few seconds to fill it up before the engine =
gets oil.

Maybe your dipstick somehow got magnetized and it picking up metal =
pieces?

As far as the Edelbrock intake- I would go with the performer.  More =
horsepower and saves a lot of weight!

- -greg


- ------=_NextPart_000_016A_01BE0C79.CEEF06A0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Two thoughts...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Are you prefilling the oil filter =
with oil=20
before installing it?&nbsp; If you put it in dry, it takes a few seconds =
to=20
<FONT color=3D#000000>fill </FONT>it up before the engine gets =
oil.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Maybe your dipstick somehow got =
<FONT=20
color=3D#000000>magnetized </FONT>and it picking up metal =
pieces?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>As far as the Edelbrock intake- I =
would go with=20
the performer.&nbsp; More horsepower and saves a lot of =
weight!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>-greg</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_016A_01BE0C79.CEEF06A0--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 08:45:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Metal in OIL Part II

I have been using the Edelbrock Performer intake for about 4 months
now. It has greatly decreased the weight compared to the stock cast
iron intake, and it has increased the flow well. Well enough in fact
that I am going to have to do a little work to my Q-Jet to get it to
flow better to keep up with it!

Del

> 
> As far as the Edelbrock intake- I would go with the performer.  More
horsepower and saves a lot of weight!
> 

==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 10:17:43 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Metal in OIL Part II

Rock Man and Greg,

How much better is the Edelbrock Performer.  I currently use stock EGR '76
Intake.  I got a '70 442 iron intake to put on.  Same weight.  Had a hood
induction installed on my car in case I ever get a Edelbrock so that hood
closure is not a problem.  Keep in mind that this intake here in Canada is
$400.  That is a lot of money and I am a little short (tuition in Univ..
just went up AGAIN), but if it is quite a bit better them maybe I can spare
some money.  What about bottom/top end.  I got a 750 Q-jet, with stock jets
and stuff (from a '70 442 but fresh rebuild on the carb).  Dual 2.5",
balancer tube, Dynomax Mufflers, 9.5 CR., ported/polished J-heads.  Thanks.
igor455@home.com

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 11:33:27 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: anyone with '68, 350 A/C 

If anyone on the list has a 68 Cutlass, 350, with air conditioning, please 
contact me privately. I need to ask some questions about accessory brackets 
& pulleys.

Thanks in advance.

roger hitson

Mail to:  hitson@i1.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 12:13:38 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: RE: Tail light sockets for '72 Cutlass

>The sockets are an integral part of the housing

These are just like the front turn signal sockets I assume.  In that case you
can get new pig tails at an auto parts store like NAPA.  They are the two
wires, spring and small circle of fiber.  They do come in different sizes for
various applications.  A great way to freshen up old sockets.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 12:21:38 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: line-locks operation question.

A line lock is nothing more than a solenoid actuated valve placed in the brake
line.  Usually placed in the line for the front brakes to hold the car.  It is
entirely possible to plumb one into any brake line.  When you hit the button
the valve closes, stopping the flow of fluid.  If you hit the button  before
braking you will not get pressure to the brakes on that line.  If you hit the
button while braking, then release the brake pedal, the brakes will still hold
the wheels in that line while relaesing the rest of the system.

Dave Wyatt
70   4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 11:31:55 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tail light sockets for '72 Cutlass

One thing I noticed on my 75's sockets, the piece where the power
acutally wen to the bulb (on the outside of the socket) was just pressed
against the piece the bulb contacted, and lost connection there.  A
simple dab of solder made this a hard-fast connection.  I've never
looked to see if this was an aftermarket creation or what??

In my case, I just soddered the piece togethor, and it worked fine.  Am
I imagining things, or is this a factory setup??

Eric
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/cut_bl.shtml <-- Car in question

> >  I'm new to the Olds hobby so excuse my basic question.
> > Some tail light sockets on my 72 Cutlass Conv have lost
> > their "springy-ness" and hence not making good contact with
> > the bulbs. How's the easiest way to replace these sockets ?
> > Does the bumper need to be taken off first or is there
> > an easier way ?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Don
> > '72 Cutlass Conv
> > '91 Calais I-Series

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 11:42:32 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Restrictor???  Hmm . . .

In the OLDs days, we called them heat risers, only happens on REAL dual
exhausts. Bi Metal spring on right hand exhaust manifold connected to
restrictor plate, works just like a mechanical choke, much more
sophisticated nowadays.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net


- ----------
> From: DonziKel@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Exhaust Restrictor???  Hmm . . .
> Date: Monday, November 09, 1998 11:05 PM
> 
> My 1966 CUtlass does the same thing. When you start it, only steam comes
out
> of the left pipe. After running for about 10 minutes, both pipes are
steaming.
> My dads 68 CUtlass does it, my moms Chrysler does it (318 2bbl :P) and my
dads
> chevelle does it. My friends Trans Am does it too, so yeah, its stock i'd
say.
> Kelly Erickson
> 1966 CUtlass, 54 Super 88, soon to have a 66 4-4-2 with a 455:)
> www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 11:48:17 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: line-locks operation question.

Ray, 
It only HOLDS pressure you have applied to the front brakes until you
release it, it does not obstruct additional pressure you may apply later
though the petal.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

- ----------
> From: Ray Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
> To: Olds <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; G Body <olds_gbody@listbot.com>
> Subject: line-locks operation question.
> Date: Monday, November 09, 1998 9:46 PM
> 
> Hi geniuses.
> What would happen if you inadvertently engaged linelocks while driving.
> Would your brakes then lock in the open position and when you hit the
brake
> pedal to slow down, for a traffic light let's say, only your back brakes
> would engage?
> 
> Ray Costanzo
> 87 409 Cutlass
> Bucks County, PA
> costanzo@netcarrier.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 12:51:44 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: "Hangers" and block ID

In a message dated 98-11-09 15:05:20 EST, you write:

<<  Obviously the most accurate way to tell the year of a block is to look at
the VIN
 derivative stamped on the pad adjacent to the number one cylinder (for 68-up
blocks).  First digit will be a 3 for Olds Division, second digit will be the
last digit of the year (8 = 1968, 1 = 1971, etc), and third will indicate the
manufacturing location (M = Lansing, X = Kansas City, etc).  I'd be interested
to find out if the serif/san-serif thing is year or location related. >>

Saw the pad.
Forgot #s because was stymied by "X".
Gotta check this Sat.
Was it a 69....?

K

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 12:51:39 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Nov JWO I'm fixing it for December!!

In a message dated 98-11-09 19:08:30 EST, you write:

<< Just to let you have a heads up: I HAVE ALL OF THE OCA MEMBERSHIP INFO!!!
>>

Hmmm...say could you ~arrange~ for Karl to be upgraded to Life Member?

 :-)}

<< Between the OCA web site... >>

Silly!
You gotta add the URL if you refer to specific sites!
(Besides, Karl forgot....it OCA.org??)

Congrats on a good job yourself!!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 12:07:49 -0600
From: "Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
Subject: Re: Nov JWO I'm fixing it for December!!

Karl,

>You gotta add the URL if you refer to specific sites!
>(Besides, Karl forgot....it OCA.org??)


Nope, it's www.oldsclub.org

- -Mark Tupper     1987 442    (OCA 30666)
 mtupper@palacenet.net     http://cyberglyphs.com/442/
 Olds G-body Mailing list      http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 09:32:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Metal in OIL Part II

> How much better is the Edelbrock Performer.  I currently use stock
EGR '76
> Intake.

Keep in mind that this intake here in Canada is
> $400.  That is a lot of money and I am a little short (tuition in
Univ..
> just went up AGAIN)

What about bottom/top end.



Igor,

You may have to rejet if you do go with the intake. What I would do is
this though. Get yourself a copy of Jeg's catalog. Order the intake
from there! I got mine from them for 169.99. I am not sure what it
will come to in Canada, but I know that it was cheaper then anywhere I
could find here in town. With my stock intake, I was looking at a peak
RPM of around 5 grand. When the engine would hit about 4 grand, the
RPM increase would slow down and it would take it a while to get up to
5. With this intake, the RPM increase is very noticable! I have had
the tach hit 6 grand. There is no more "dead area" when I get into the
higher R's. It has also increased the acceleration. In a distance of
about 1/8 mile (never actually measured just guessing!) I could go
from a dead stop to 80. Now I can get it up to just about 90 in the
same space. I am pleased with the intake.

Del

==
Rock-Man's Page
http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 10:19:40 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Restrictor???  Hmm . . .

At 11:42 AM 11/10/98 -0600, you wrote:
>In the OLDs days, we called them heat risers, only happens on REAL dual

all (non-service replacement) SB manifolds from 64 to 72 have one.
I don't know about BB's though 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 10:27:06 -0800
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Insurance

If you want to get insurance for the amount of money you've spent on it, get
a professional valuation of the car's value and buy an 
"agreed value" policy. 

You will spend more for this insurance than the actual cash value policy
which is more typical. Shop it with your valuation in hand.


cf

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rock Man [mailto:rockman20@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 1998 7:27 AM
> To: Oldsmobile E-mail Ring
> Subject: Insurance
> 
> 
> I really hate to bother the list with this whole insurance bit again,
> I am sorry. So, please e-mail any responses privately. I was wondering
> if insurance companies are going to consider my car less valuable
> since it is a 69 but it has a 70 engine in it. I talked to the agent
> yesterday and found out on where they were coming up with the $2,000
> value they have on the car. That is book value of a car that has never
> been touched since 69! So, he told me that now I have to prove that
> the car was just redone. (Thank god I kept ALL the receipts!) But, as
> I was going through this, I came across the ones from when I had the
> block baked and the cylinders honed and it says that it was on a 70
> Olds 350. This brought fear into me thinking that they are going to
> see that and say that since my engine isn't the original, the car
> isn't worth anything. Can someone out there set my mind at ease?
> 
> Thanks,
> Del 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ==
> Rock-Man's Page
> http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> rockman20@yahoo.com
> 1986 Honda Accord DX
> 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
> 1981 John Deer Snowmobile
> 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 12:32:04 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Restrictor???  Hmm . . .

Bob, 
meant the steam, (cond. vapor from pipes), Y piping after cat, and they
both steam.
Lou
- ----------
> From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Exhaust Restrictor???  Hmm . . .
> Date: Tuesday, November 10, 1998 12:19 PM
> 
> At 11:42 AM 11/10/98 -0600, you wrote:
> >In the OLDs days, we called them heat risers, only happens on REAL dual
> 
> all (non-service replacement) SB manifolds from 64 to 72 have one.
> I don't know about BB's though 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 13:33:25 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Exhaust Restrictor???  Hmm . . .

Thats what I said...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 13:56:18 -0500
From: Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca
Subject: RE: Tail light sockets for '72 Cutlass

Can they be replaced to look just like the original. Is the crimping solid
enough to withstand daily driving abuse?

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	David L Wyatt [SMTP:WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com]
> Sent:	Tuesday, November 10, 1998 12:14 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	RE: Tail light sockets for '72 Cutlass
> 
> >The sockets are an integral part of the housing
> 
> These are just like the front turn signal sockets I assume.  In that case
> you
> can get new pig tails at an auto parts store like NAPA.  They are the two
> wires, spring and small circle of fiber.  They do come in different sizes
> for
> various applications.  A great way to freshen up old sockets.
> 
> Dave Wyatt
> 70  4-4-2
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 11:19:39 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tail light sockets for '72 Cutlass

> One thing I noticed on my 75's sockets, the piece where the power
> actually went to the bulb (on the outside of the socket) was just 
> pressed against the piece the bulb contacted, and lost connection
> there.  A simple dab of solder made this a hard-fast connection. 
> I've never looked to see if this was an aftermarket creation or 
> what??

Probably not aftermarket; it sounds like you repaired a broken ground
lead, which is usually how these sockets fail.

I was hoping to stay out of this thread (CROWD: Hooray! :-) but I have
to mention a couple of things:

1) The springs-and-fibre-washer replacement assembly does not, I
think, work for the GM sockets; look at the bottom of yours and I 
think you'll find two convex spring contacts instead. Dunno offhand 
if you can get those as individual replacements, although I seem to 
remember being able to weasel those out of the socket with a lot of 
patience. If the metal socket housing is bonded into the taillamp, you 
might as well try to get the guts out first in case it turns out that 
you don't in fact have to rip the whole housing out of the backing. 
Echlin, General and others do sell various 1156 and 1157 socket 
internals to do exactly this repair.

2) If you're replacing the whole socket assembly after all, make sure
you match your wire colors correctly (Duh): Brown for taillamps, green
and yellow for left and right brake/turn signals, black for ground. I
forget which side is which but you'll see the green and yellow easily
enough. Solder the wires, even if it's a pain in the butt; it's still
better than crimping or twisting wires together.

3) These sockets have different focal lengths; that is, the distance
that the bulb projects into the lamp from its socket. Look at various
sockets and you'll see the flange placed at varying distances from the
end of the socket, depending on its focal length. Get the one that's
the same as your taillamp socket (which is most likely _not_ the same
as your front turn signal socket). That way the bulb is the right
distance from the taillight lens and the light will be nicely focused.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 14:30:34 -0500
From: Scott & Sharon <jerdan@erols.com>
Subject: Re: engine rebuilders in WashDC

I used Coleman Brothers Machine shop in Jessup.  They did a very good job.
You may want to go to a Capital City Rockets (OCA Chapter) or Oldsmobile
Centenial Club (OCA Chapter) meeting and ask the members for their opinions.
The Centenial Club will be meeting Tueday night 7:00 P.M. November 10 at Ernie
Swanson Oldsmobile in Glen Burnie.  You could join us and ask your question to
the members.

Scott Jerdan
70 W-30

Todd Morris wrote:

> I'm seriously considering having my 455 redone, the right way.  Can anyone
> suggest a quality OLDS engine rebuilder within say 2 or 3 hours of WashDC?
> Thanks.
>
> Todd Morris
> 71 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 15:03:16 EST
From: StafRT007@aol.com
Subject: unsubscribe oldsmobile

.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 15:47:38 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: DeskTop Dyno

     Igor, I just recieved a cataloge with DeskTopDyno in it for sale...price
was 39.95 US. Company is called...
Classic Motorbooks
P.O. Box 1
Osceola, WI 54020-0001
1-800-826-6600

Collyn

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 13:12:49 PST
From: "scott slater" <slater442w30@hotmail.com>
Subject: Hurst Olds Vista Cruiser?

I was on the internet not too long ago and found some of the coolest 
pictures of Vista Cruisers I have ever seen.  Although these wagons 
already kick ass someone has what appears to be Hurst Olds Vista 
Cruisers.  They are either 71 or 72 and sport the famous white and gold 
Hurst striping and one says press on the front fender and the other has 
medical director printed on the fender.  The car with medical director 
also says official pace car on the side.  Now I would like to know if 
the pace car version actually was a pace car and maybe how many were 
made.  If anyone out there has any info or pictures of any of these cars 
I would like to see them.

SLATER442w30@hotmail.com


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 16:30:35 -0500
From: "Brad Nicholson" <brad442@erols.com>
Subject: OCA Web Site

Oldsmobile Club of America
http://www.oldsclub.org

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 17:21:45 EST
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hurst Olds Vista Cruiser?

There were about half a dozen Vista Cruisers with the H/O paint scheme used at
Indy in '72. They were used by the medical staff and for other hauling chores.
There were also VC's used in '70 as well, although most of them had steel
hoods and some even had woodgrain on the sides. They were not as faithful to
the pace car look as the '72s were.

Jon

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 17:08:14 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Tail light sockets for '72 Cutlass

have had better luck with the replacement units mentioned by David. as long
as the orig. sockets are not rusted though, Did a lot of car trailer stuff,
they corrode like crazy. I you can save the socket, it's easier. My
crimping sucks, always had to silicone the mess together. Crimping is like
watch repair, I don't have the knack for it. Bad hands I guess. Always
sanded the inside of the socket with light paper and sprayed with WD40.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
- ----
> From: Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: Tail light sockets for '72 Cutlass
> Date: Tuesday, November 10, 1998 12:56 PM
> 
> Can they be replaced to look just like the original. Is the crimping
solid
> enough to withstand daily driving abuse?
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:	David L Wyatt [SMTP:WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com]
> > Sent:	Tuesday, November 10, 1998 12:14 PM
> > To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject:	RE: Tail light sockets for '72 Cutlass
> > 
> > >The sockets are an integral part of the housing
> > 
> > These are just like the front turn signal sockets I assume.  In that
case
> > you
> > can get new pig tails at an auto parts store like NAPA.  They are the
two
> > wires, spring and small circle of fiber.  They do come in different
sizes
> > for
> > various applications.  A great way to freshen up old sockets.
> > 
> > Dave Wyatt
> > 70  4-4-2
> > 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 18:28:36 -0500 (EST)
From: dsenko@UU.NET (Drew Senko)
Subject: WANTED: hood/bumper/grills for 71 Cutlass

Got this message from someone that saw my webpage.  If anyone can help
this guy, please respond to his e-mail address (not mine).

Anyone near Houston have parts or a junkyard?  Of course I told him to
check out www.442.com for parts suppliers.
- -- 
Drew Senko  ---  http://members.aol.com/drewinva


> From: wamitexas@earthlink.net
> Subject: 1971 cutlas S
> 
> Dear Drew,
> Saw your web page and thought you could help me.  My mother has a 1971 
> Cutlas S with only 30,000 orig. miles.  She really loves it but recently 
> the car was in a front end accident and we are looking for some front 
> end body parts: hood, bumper, grills, everything from the radiator out.
>  
> Can you point me toward someone who might have a source for these items?
> It would be a big help.  The car is in really mint condition, its dark 
> metalic green with white interior.  I'm in Houston.
> 
> If possible just contact me at the above e-mail address.
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> George
> wamitexas@earthlink.net
mailto:wamitexas@earthlink.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 17:32:56 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Holiday

Everyone have a good one, one day off in the middle of the week is nice,
Should do this every week. Any vets out there, welcome home brothers! Any
Vets out there, welcome home brothers!
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

PS Andy, not to belabor the thread on taillights sockets, just sharing my
mess ups. Crimping is like my golf game, no matter what the tools at hand,
it still sucks.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 17:34:32 -0600
From: wamitexas@earthlink.net
Subject: 1971 Cutlas

I am looking for front end body parts for a 1971 Cutlas S.  I need hood, 
bumper, grills etc.  Would apreciate any help or contacts in this 
regard.  This is a very special car in near mint condition.

Thanks,
George

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 18:41:52 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: An Olds on TV

There will be on TV tonight the second installment of Mama Flora's Family.
If you look for it, you will see Frank Wolak's '54 Super 88 convertible
lurking about.  The show was shot here in Atlanta.  Frank said they fed him
like a king, and he met Cicely Tyson.  And they paid him $50 per hour to
just hang out there.  I immediately volunteered my entire fleet, should they
want to shoot something like a barrio or ghetto scene.  So far no takers.
Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 18:45:13 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Request for Standard 442 Road Test

Well said.  It is amazing to me that month after month, the bulk of the '70
442's advertised in Hemmings are W-30's.  I didn't know such a vast
percentage of the population that year was so equipped.  I have one of the
apparently rare base models.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, November 10, 1998 10:01 AM
Subject: Re: Request for Standard 442 Road Test


>I would be interested in getting my hands on a copy also.  If someone has a
>copy reply to me and not the list.  As the owner of a plain old 4-4-2, not
a
>W-30, I feel like a stepchild when looking for info.  The plain cars were
much
>more common than the W-30 or 31 cars and they were the ones that ended up
on
>the scrap heap due to hard use and abuse.  The fancy models usually did not
>get used up, so they survived.  Although I do know of one 69 H/O with a
flat
>roof!
>
>Dave Wyatt
>70  4-4-2
>
>Wyatt_David_L@Lilly.com
>
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1597
*********************************

