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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1568


oldsmobile-digest      Friday, October 23 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1568



Can someone help me?
Re: Can I make a 455 out of a G block 400?
70 Vista Cruiser for Sale
Re: Can someone help me?
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1567

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 17:02:58 -0700
From: Ed Cline <justaskus@sotelectronics.com>
Subject: Can someone help me?

I have been trying to get off this list.  Can someone help me and point
me in the right direction?

Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 19:25:10 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Can I make a 455 out of a G block 400?

Just a thought,
Winston cup engine builders maintain a minimum of .200 to .225 wall
thickness using the sonic method of testing. even on the qualifying
engines. seems too thin to me but their making the big bucks, and they go
500 miles full bore. scary!
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
- ----------
> From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Can I make a 455 out of a G block 400?
> Date: Friday, October 23, 1998 6:32 PM
>
> Cliff Simpson wrote:
>
>
> >         Since the 455 and the later 400 engines share the same
> > stroke, can I just bore my 400 out to 455?  The 400 is a G
> > block with the F2 code on the back.  I thought I read
> > somewhere in the FAQ that you could bore this block out to
> > 4.125" without sonic testing.
>
>
>
> Cliff,
> The maximum factory recommended oversize on the 400
> is .060"  In order to fit standard 455 pistons, you
> would need to remove .255" from the bore.  That's
> just a bit more than a quarter of an inch.
> There is simply not enough material in the bore
> to remove that much.
>
>
> Greg Rollin
> Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
> 503-244-8249
> http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
> E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 20:41:16 -0400
From: Scott & Sharon <jerdan@erols.com>
Subject: 70 Vista Cruiser for Sale

A friend and fellow member of the Oldsmobile Centenial Chapter of OCA
(Baltimore, Maryland) asked me to post one of his cars for sale.  You
may call him directly (prefered) or e-mail me and I'll get it to him.
His name is Wayne (410) 799-7395.  He bought the car to make a W-30
wagon and lost interest. Now the details:

1970 Vista Cruiser (restoration 80% complete), rebuilt original 455,
rebuilt turbo 400, original anti-spin option w/2.73 gears, new Aspen
Green paint, new radiator, new battery box, new rubber brake lines, new
wheel seals, new brake pads, interior paint (three types to match
original), interior screw kit, molded carpet plus extra bolt from carpet
run, rechromed front bumper, power bench seat, new transmission cooling
lines + 1972 green Vista Cruiser parts car very little rust and far from
a basket case $6,000.  Available only with the above car for $2000 more
are numerous 442 pieces including: bucket seats with new green seat
covers, console (not dual gate), 70 sport mirrors, 442 glove box, mint
OAI hood, 442 grills (new repro),  ralley pack (tach & gauges-
calibrated), new 442 & W-30 emblems

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 20:42:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: Itatt4u2@webtv.net (Corey A. Cassell)
Subject: Re: Can someone help me?

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I have been trying to get off this list.  Can someone help me and point
me in the right direction?

Thanks.

- --WebTV-Mail-2093155532-1822--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 18:45:46 -0600 (MDT)
From: Timothy Hall <hallt@athena.csdco.com>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1567

Peter - thanks for the tip on the tirenet. I contacted them through the
internet as you suggested. I'll let you know what I come up with.

Tim
Denver
'57 J2 Rocket
'67 Cutlass 455

On Fri, 23 Oct 1998, oldsmobile-digest wrote:

>
> oldsmobile-digest      Friday, October 23 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1567
>
>
>
> How many manufactured?
> Re: Heating/AC
> Re: TherMac Mk II
> Re: Heating/AC
> Re: TherMac Mk II
> Re: Heating/AC
> Re: Olds Ads
> Re: KNOCKING TRANNY
> Re: Heating/AC
> Re: IROC Cutlass Spotted!
> Best body filler choices
> Re: Heating/AC
> Re: How many manufactured?
> Re: Best body filler choices
> Re: Ticka Ticka (was somethin else)
> Re: PERFORMANCE
> Date:	Fri, 23 Oct 1998 11:22:39 -0400
> Blower Motor Wiring
> Re: KNOCKING TRANNY
> Re: Best body filler choices
> Re: KNOCKING TRANNY
> DOH!!!  was: Break SOM! + Q's
> Front Cover Install was: Oil pan sealage
> 1964 F-85
> 1964 F-85
> Re: 1964 F-85
> ????????
> Re: 1964 F-85
> Whitewalls
> Re: Whitewalls
> ??????
> pics442 -70
> testing non-thermal fan clutch
> Re: 1964 F-85
> Re: Front Cover Install was: Oil pan sealage
> HeadBolt torque???
> FW: Rance EFI
> Re: HeadBolt torque???
> Re: 1964 F-85
> Rear axle compatibility.
> Re: Rear axle compatibility.
> Re: 1964 F-85
> '71 Contvertible
> Karl: 2-jets
> RE: Rear axle compatibility.
> free intake manifold
> Re: Rear axle compatibility.
> Re: HeadBolt torque???
> Re: Rear axle compatibility.
> Karl's Reply to Matt: 2-Jets!
> UNBOUNCE: Fr*e Intake Manifold
> Re: Rear axle compatibility.
> [none]
> Re: Whitewalls
> Re: Daytona under the lights, 8:00
> Can I make a 455 out of a G block 400?
> Re: HeadBolt torque???
> Re: pics442 -70
> Oldsmobile Screen Saver
> Re: Can I make a 455 out of a G block 400?
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 22:28:18 +0000
> From: Nadine Gislason <nadineg@telusplanet.net>
> Subject: How many manufactured?
>
> Hi there,
>
> Just recently subscribed mainly because I haven't been able to find the
> information I want myself (don't know where else to look on the web!)
> I'm wondering how to go about finding out "How many of a certain make
> and model were manufactured in one year?"
>
> On my brother's behalf, I will be more specific if that helps-- I would
> like to know "How many 1987 Oldmobile 442 (with T-tops) were
> manufactured in total?"
>
> If someone can help me out here I'd really appreciate it.  Thanks.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 21:43:43 -0700
> From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
> Subject: Re: Heating/AC
>
> Chris Brown wrote:
>
> > I am trying to get my heater to work properly, but the levers that work the
> > vents and the hot cold so not do the job they are supposed to do, I noticed
> > a whole plate of vaccuum spaghetti under the dash hooked to these, but they
> > all seam to be intact, is there supposed to be a line running from the
> > engine to the firewall, and where on the firewall is it supposed to go to?
> > Any vaccuum diagrams that I have do not show this, and the only place I 
know
> > of that supplys enough vaccuum to necessitate lines is the motor.
>
>
>
> Chris,
>
> You are correct in that the vacuum source for the heater,
> A/C,
> and vents is from the engine.
> There is a vacuum tank located on the firewall that has
> a hose connected to the intake manifold.  And from the tank
> another hose passes through the firewall to the plate of
> spaghetti.
> This is the vacuum supply source for the dash control
> panel.
> If it is not connected, none of the vents for A/C or heater
> will
> operate.
>
>
> Greg Rollin
> Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
> 503-244-8249
> http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
> E-mail: supercars@transport.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 00:13:20 -0500
> From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
> Subject: Re: TherMac Mk II
>
> Igor, you are the best.  I ALMOST jumped up and looked at it just now, but
> I'm going to wait until tomorrow...it's dark now and also kinda cold
> (people north of the Mason-Dixon line are scoffing..)
>
> So when the Thermac is CLOSED, then air from that accordian-looking black
> intake hose (cold air) is NOT being let into the carb, and when the Thermac
> is OPEN, then air from the hose IS being let in?  Is this correct?  Does
> this mean that air from the hot-air pipe is ALWAYS being let into the carb?
>  Or is it CLOSED = HOT AIR, OPEN = COLD AIR?
>
> At 11:17 PM 10/22/98 , you wrote:
> >>1984 Delta 307.  We are talking about the TherMac.  There are two vaccuum
> >>hoses.  One runs from the TherMac to the temp sensor in the air cleaner.
> >>The other runs from the temp sensor to ?????????????.
> >>
> >>Where DOES it run to?  I've heard "on the carb", and that very well may be
> >>true, but WHERE ON THE CARB EXACTLY?
> >
> >
> >OKAY.  Just went out to look at my '81 307 Carb on the shelf in the garage.
> >KEEP IN MIND that this may vary from year to year.  My '76 emissions carb is
> >different from my '81 which is of course different from my current '70
> >non-emissions.  That hose hooks up to the port on the right side of your
> >carburetor.  That is look at where your fuel pipe comes in (middle of
> >front).  To the right of it (drivers side) should be a port to hook up a
> >vacuum hose.  As I recall on my '81 307, there was a lot of shit hooked-up
> >to that port.  Unless the spliter is already there, you will have to t it
> >off.  If you have something else hooked up there, then get a T-split and
> >hook up both.  On my '76 455 carb, the air-cleaner hooks up on the left
> >port, so go figure.  Try the right first, cause on the '81 307 carb
> >(probable closer to yours), the left is used for distributor, and I don't
> >think you should mess with that.  Try the right, then tell me.  When you
> >hook-it-up, fire it up (cold) and look.  The Thermac plate should stay
> >closed unless you floor the pedal.  When it warms up (really warms up) it
> >should open.  Hook it up, if it works drive for 15 mins., then open the hood
> >(while it runs) and look.  If it is still closed, push the throttle 1/4 down
> >and look, if still closed, no good.  Let me know.  Igor.
> >
> >igor455@home.com
> >
> >Igor Todorovic, UofC, Calgary, Alberta
> >1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
> >1981 Regency 98 (307/2004r/propane)
> >1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)
> >
> - -------------------------------------------------------------
>  Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
>  MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
>  2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
>  Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
>  1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
> 	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
>  	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
> - -------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 00:23:10 -0500
> From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
> Subject: Re: Heating/AC
>
> OK, this info comes from owning an '84 (the good, first one, not the
> current problem child), but it MAY be the same...
>
> Same thing was happening, you turn the levers, and nothing happens.  I took
> the head unit (the box with the sliding levers) out of the dash, and
> there's this white plastic circle thing with holes in it that's hooked up
> to some kind of gearing attached to the fan speed lever, or possibly the
> level that controls what function you want AC/Heater to do (I _think_, this
> was quite some time ago).  Anyway, this white plastic circle with holes is
> held against this other piece of stationary white plastic with (memory...a
> single hole in it) by a clip, and as you adjust the levers, this circle
> turns against the other piece, causing vacuum to flow into different holes
> on the circle (we are REALLY being precise here, eh?).
>
> What had happened was the clip had broke, so the circle was no longer being
> held flush against the other piece, meaning you could adjust the levers
> 'till you were blue in the face and it would accomplish exactly nothing.
> All I had to do was go to this REALLY cheesy used parts place and get just
> the plastic assembly (as I recall, you couldn't replace just the clip).
>
> This may not be the root of your problem at all, but maybe...
>
> At 11:43 PM 10/22/98 , you wrote:
> >Chris Brown wrote:
> >
> >> I am trying to get my heater to work properly, but the levers that work 
the
> >> vents and the hot cold so not do the job they are supposed to do, I 
noticed
> >> a whole plate of vaccuum spaghetti under the dash hooked to these, but 
they
> >> all seam to be intact, is there supposed to be a line running from the
> >> engine to the firewall, and where on the firewall is it supposed to go to?
> >> Any vaccuum diagrams that I have do not show this, and the only place I
> know
> >> of that supplys enough vaccuum to necessitate lines is the motor.
> >
> >
> >
> >Chris,
> >
> >You are correct in that the vacuum source for the heater,
> >A/C,
> >and vents is from the engine.
> >There is a vacuum tank located on the firewall that has
> >a hose connected to the intake manifold.  And from the tank
> >another hose passes through the firewall to the plate of
> >spaghetti.
> >This is the vacuum supply source for the dash control
> >panel.
> >If it is not connected, none of the vents for A/C or heater
> >will
> >operate.
> >
> >
> >Greg Rollin
> >Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
> >503-244-8249
> >http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
> >E-mail: supercars@transport.com
> >
> - -------------------------------------------------------------
>  Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
>  MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
>  2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
>  Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
>  1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
> 	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
>  	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
> - -------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 00:48:25 -0600
> From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
> Subject: Re: TherMac Mk II
>
> >So when the Thermac is CLOSED, then air from that accordian-looking black
> >intake hose (cold air) is NOT being let into the carb, and when the Thermac
> >is OPEN, then air from the hose IS being let in?  Is this correct?
>
> Yes!  Black hose from front of car to air-cleaner is cold air hose.  Plate
> closed, no cold air.  Plate open, cold air.
>
> > Or is it CLOSED = HOT AIR, OPEN = COLD AIR?
>
>
> Yes, this one.
>
> When you are looking at the thermac take the black accordion hose off (out
> of the car).  Only after the Thermach is working plug this back in.  (you
> don't really need the black hose, it only helps when hot outside so cold air
> needed.  Here in Calgary, I don't even use this cause it is too cold).
> Anyway, when the plate is on CLOSED (cold engine), it closes off the cold
> air coming in and also on the bottom (where the hot air comes from exhaust
> manifold) it opens a little valve to let the hot air come it (that way when
> plate OPEN, no hot air).  I had the exact same problem as you.  Someone
> before me unplugged the Thermac.  I had no black accordion hose, but even so
> when the car was cold it would stall if I try to go to soon, or hesitate.
> After the Thermach was plugged back in, warm-ups were faster and car
> hesitated less.  Don't forget, if your Thermach does not work properly and
> your engine is cold (or even hot for that matter), then the below freezing
> air that comes in (during winter) to the carb can freeze the fuel and stall
> the car.  If you live in climate where temps get below freezing in winter,
> take the Black Accordion hose OFF until spring.  It will help the car run a
> little better in the winter.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 06:28:40 -0400
> From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
> Subject: Re: Heating/AC
>
> >I am trying to get my heater to work properly, but the levers that work the
> >vents and the hot cold so not do the job they are supposed to do, I noticed
> >a whole plate of vaccuum spaghetti under the dash hooked to these, but they
> >all seam to be intact, is there supposed to be a line running from the
> >engine to the firewall, and where on the firewall is it supposed to go to?
> >Any vaccuum diagrams that I have do not show this, and the only place I know
> >of that supplys enough vaccuum to necessitate lines is the motor.
>
> Chris,
>
> >From the sound of your post I'm assuming (never a very accurate method of
> obtaining facts;) that you don't have a 1972 Oldsmobile Chassis Service
> Manual.
>
> Don't know what your financial situation is, but I think for this type of
> dilemma and a zillion more that are bound to come up an investment of about
> $40-50 (I'm guessing at current price) in a manual would be worth it's
> weight in gold.  For instance, the entire heating/AC system is explained
> and diagramed and that includes vacuum, electrical, cables... you name it.
> Look around in the manual and you'll see a vacuum reservoir canister, where
> it mounts on the firewall and then where it hooks onto the manifold.
>
> You can get the 1972 Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual from somebody like:
>
> a) Al Sandy  @ 609-858-0248
> b) Bob Johnson @ 800-334-0688
> c) Faxon's @ 800-458-2734
>
> There are others, look in Hemmings.  I've had good experience with each of
> the above.
>
> hope this helps,
>
> jp
>
> Jonathan Parke
> mailto:jonparke@together.net
>
> '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
> (near the end of a 5 year frame off customization)
>
> '60 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider Veloce
> (completely in pieces, perfect body, long term restoration)
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 07:46:24 -0400
> From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
> Subject: Re: Olds Ads
>
> Some guy is selling full page Olds ads for $7.00 each, mounted.  He said to
> post with needs.  Peter.
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Thursday, October 22, 1998 10:10 PM
> Subject: Re: Olds Ads
>
>
> >what's this about 66 toro and 98 convert  peter....
> >
> >will try and get n'letter out next week     jeff...
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 09:00:55 EDT
> From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
> Subject: Re: KNOCKING TRANNY
>
> Don't know if this helps or not, but I just replaced my original intake
> manifold with an edelbrock performer and re-adjusted rochester q-jet. Before 
i
> did this I had a knock everytime I put it into drive. Since this conversion
> the car runs much smoother and the knock has disappeared. Maybe it's a carb
> adjustment?  Just an observation.
> Bruce
> 75 Delta 88 conv.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 06:01:48 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: Heating/AC
>
> Chris,
>
> I also had the same problem that you did on my 69 Cutlass "S". But, I
> found this place called "Automobilia" that specializes in shop
> manuals, owners manuals, sales brochures, paint chips, and license
> tags. They are out of Jacksonville, FL. I believe that my manual was
> about $62 with S&H, but like Jon says, it is well worth it's weight in
> gold! Their phone/fax # is (904)737-8600. They have a toll free number
> of (800)997-7998. The owners name is Leon Silke. Give em a call
> sometime. Maybe they can find something for ya! Good luck!
>
> Del
>
>
>
>
> - ---Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net> wrote:
> >
> > >I am trying to get my heater to work properly, but the levers that
> work the
> > >vents and the hot cold so not do the job they are supposed to do, I
> noticed
> > >a whole plate of vaccuum spaghetti under the dash hooked to these,
> but they
> > >all seam to be intact, is there supposed to be a line running from
> the
> > >engine to the firewall, and where on the firewall is it supposed to
> go to?
> > >Any vaccuum diagrams that I have do not show this, and the only
> place I know
> > >of that supplys enough vaccuum to necessitate lines is the motor.
> >
> > Chris,
> >
> > From the sound of your post I'm assuming (never a very accurate
> method of
> > obtaining facts;) that you don't have a 1972 Oldsmobile Chassis
> Service
> > Manual.
> >
> > Don't know what your financial situation is, but I think for this
> type of
> > dilemma and a zillion more that are bound to come up an investment
> of about
> > $40-50 (I'm guessing at current price) in a manual would be worth it's
> > weight in gold.  For instance, the entire heating/AC system is
> explained
> > and diagramed and that includes vacuum, electrical, cables... you
> name it.
> > Look around in the manual and you'll see a vacuum reservoir
> canister, where
> > it mounts on the firewall and then where it hooks onto the manifold.
> >
> > You can get the 1972 Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual from somebody
> like:
> >
> > a) Al Sandy  @ 609-858-0248
> > b) Bob Johnson @ 800-334-0688
> > c) Faxon's @ 800-458-2734
> >
> > There are others, look in Hemmings.  I've had good experience with
> each of
> > the above.
> >
> > hope this helps,
> >
> > jp
> >
> > Jonathan Parke
> > mailto:jonparke@together.net
> >
> > '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
> > (near the end of a 5 year frame off customization)
> >
> > '60 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider Veloce
> > (completely in pieces, perfect body, long term restoration)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> ==
> Rock-Man's Page
> http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass "S"
> 1986 Honda Accord DX
>
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 06:18:22 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: IROC Cutlass Spotted!
>
> I agree! I wanna see pics! :-) Sounds like a sweet car!
>
>
>
>
> - ---Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net> wrote:
> >
> > Mark Tupper wrote:
> >
> > > Just got back in from an all too brief viewing of Gary Couse's
> "Quincy". He
> >
> > Ok.  Where are the pics at?
> >
> > --
> > Chris Sparks
> > 68 442 SC - Frosty
> > 68 442 HT - Scarlet
> > 68 442 HT - Saffron
> > 82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
> > http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada
> >
>
> ==
> Rock-Man's Page
> http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass "S"
> 1986 Honda Accord DX
>
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 08:39:14 +0000
> From: MB0 <MB0@americancentury.com>
> Subject: Best body filler choices
>
> I just received my fenders from the body shop after having patch panels
> fabricated to replace the rust behind the wheels. I've ground the weld,
> but still need to do the finishing work on them. Does anyone have a
> recommendation on the best body filler to use for smoothing out the
> rough areas within the weld? The guy at the body shop mentioned a
> waterproof green body filler.
>
> Thanks!
> Mike Baugher
> 69 Cutlass S convertible
> mb0@americancentury.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 06:39:19 PDT
> From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Heating/AC
>
> > I am trying to get my heater to work properly, but the levers
> > that work the vents and the hot cold so not do the job they are
> > supposed to do
>
> Okay, I read all the responses on this to date and I suggest you
> tackle it in this order, taking the simplest and most likely
> first, then working into the complicated stuff later:
>
> 1) There's no vacuum to operate the system. (Duh.  :-) Check under
> the hood to find the hoses others have described: there's a vacuum
> reservoir/amplifier, usually a black plastic sphere in the vicinity
> of the A/C evaporator around the right-side hood hinge. Check for
> loose or broken vacuum lines. If you have a vacuum pump or gauge,
> tap into a line under the hood and see if you have vacuum in the
> system at all with the engine idling.
>
> 2) I'd say there's a good chance you will find Something Bad under
> the hood which needs correcting. If you don't, you may well have a
> broken distribution valve on the back of the dash control panel,
> especially if any mysterious little broken spring clips have been
> found on the carpet recently; the retainer clip holding the rubber
> rotary valve disk to the plastic backing plate tends to break and
> fall apart, or else the rubber disk gets so perished that it leaks
> like a sieve anyway. This is true of the later '70's-'80's cars
> although I don't know if this design is definitely used on the '72;
> someone else here can tell us. As of a couple years ago, GM was still
> stocking the valve assembly for something like $9.
>
> 3) You could conceivably have messed-up vacuum lines in the spaghetti
> under the dash, but unless someone has deliberately ripped them out,
> I doubt it. If they are screwed up, you're going to need a manual for
> sure to sort that all out.
>
> - -- Andy
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 10:00:38 -0500
> From: "Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
> Subject: Re: How many manufactured?
>
> >
> >On my brother's behalf, I will be more specific if that helps-- I would
> >like to know "How many 1987 Oldmobile 442 (with T-tops) were
> >manufactured in total?"
> >
>
> I know this one! In 1987, 4208 Olds 442 were made. Of those, reportedly
> 1,111 had T-Tops. Now, if someone has info on how many came with sunroofs,
> I'd be interested in that.
>
> - -Mark Tupper  1987 442    (OCA #30666)
> mtupper@palacenet.net        http://cyberglyphs.com/442/
> Olds G-Body Mailing List        http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 07:36:06 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: Best body filler choices
>
> The only thing that i have ever used is BONDO.  There are a bunch of
> different types for different applications.  It has worked for me in
> the past, It works well for smoothing out rough spots, but I wouldn't
> use it to fill big holes, as all it takes is a good whack from a
> kicked up rock to knock it out (this happened on the bottom of my
> fenders where I basically built fender bottoms out of the stuff.)
> There are probably better products out there, but for what I've used
> it for, it worked well.
>
> Just my less that 2 cents
> Stefan
> 1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 09:49:46 -0500 (CDT)
> From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
> Subject: Re: Ticka Ticka (was somethin else)
>
> >Are all pushrods for a given motor available in one length only, or can
> >they be had in different lengths?
>
> All are available in different lengths.  'Tis the way to adjust
> "non-adjustable" valve train.
>
> roger hitson
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 07:53:03 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: PERFORMANCE
>
>   As far as I know, If you want to increase HP, you're gonna have to
> use more gas.  It's kind of like wanting to "have your cake and eat it
> too".  I don't thing it's possible to get higher HP with lower fuel
> consumption.  Actually, now that I think of it, I think a better
> flowing exhaust and intake could increase HP and use the same amount
> of gas, just burns it more completely and efficiently.  As far as a
> chip, I think they mainly just allow the engine to reach a higher rpm.
>  Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.
>
> Stefan
> 1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 11:22:39 -0400
> From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
> Subject: Date:	Fri, 23 Oct 1998 11:22:39 -0400
>
> unsubscribe
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 08:56:10 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Blower Motor Wiring
>
> Well, all of this talk about the heater controls and such lead me to
> another parts question. On my 69 Cutlass "S" the guy I bought it from
> had cut out the heater controls to put in some gauges. I think that
> "STUPIDITY" was his first name! he, he, he! Anyways, I replaced that
> whole bottom section of the dash, but now I am missing the wiring
> harness that is suppose to run from the blower switch to the motor.
> Also, I believe that I am missing the wires that connect to the small
> switches attatched to the temp. arm of the hot/cold slide. Are those
> wires a part of that harness? I am thinking that they would be used to
> tell the AC compressor to kick on or if the person wants heat. Am I
> right to assume this?
>
> Thanks,
> Del
>
>
>
>
> ==
> Rock-Man's Page
> http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass "S"
> 1986 Honda Accord DX
>
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 11:13:54 -0600
> From: Matthew Mayer <mmayer@interaccess.com>
> Subject: Re: KNOCKING TRANNY
>
> Frank Montero wrote:
> >
> > WHENEVER I SHIFT INTO DRIVE I GET A KNOCKING SOUND. IT'S REAL AGGRAVATING.
> > IT ONLY DOES THIS IN DRIVE. CAN ANYONE  TELL ME WHAT THIS COULD BE?????????
> Frank,
>   Had a similar problem with my 86 442 a few years ago...turned out one
> tranny mount was broken...shift into gear and the whole tranny would
> shift from the torque (no comments, please...) and cause a "clunk".  I
> don;t know why it owuld happen only in drive though...mine happened in
> drive or reverse.
> HTH..
> - --
> - ---Matt
> Chicago, IL
>
> - --------------------------------------------------------
> mailto:mmayer@interaccess.com    |  VM: 800-481-1323
> - --------------------------------------------------------
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 13:10:14 -0400
> From: Brian Kerr <bkerr@golden.net>
> Subject: Re: Best body filler choices
>
> MB0 wrote:
>
> > .... Does anyone have a recommendation on the best body filler to use for
> > smoothing out the rough areas within the weld? The guy at the body shop
> > mentioned a waterproof green body filler.
>
> He is probably referring to short strand fibreglass body filler made by
> Marglass or Evercoat (and others too I guess). I have used it on my truck
> and convertible. It is more waterproof than 'Bondo' but harder to work
> with. Finish body lines should be done with a premium body filler like
> Evercoat Rage, something that is a 'premium, lightweight, non clogging
> filler'. For the best protection, some recommend priming the bare metal
> area with an epoxy primer, filling with fibreglass filler to protect the
> welded area, bringing area up to body lines with premium filler, then
> sealing area again with epoxy primer before using urethane primer surfacer
> for finish work. Final putty work should be done with 2 part polyester. I
> followed this method with my Cutlass conv, but went the cheap route on the
> truck (fibreglass filler, bondo, laquer primer, single stage putty) and the
> difference is noticeable both in the extra work and the finished product.
> More expensive products used more steps, but required less work to yield a
> better job. Cheaper stuff shrinks and shows up sanding scratches later. 2
> part epoxy and urethane primers and putty do not shrink like laquer primer
> and single stage putty.
>
> 1983 F 150 4X4
> 1969 Cutlass S Conv
> 1986 Cutlass Supreme
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 12:25:23 -0500
> From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
> Subject: Re: KNOCKING TRANNY
>
> Check for loose torque convertor bolds. While you're under the car,
> check for loose flywheel (starter gear) bolts.
>
> - --
> David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
>           Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
> http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
> Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
>            ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 13:19:51 EDT
> From: KarlAune@aol.com
> Subject: DOH!!!  was: Break SOM! + Q's
>
> Oh, ...Brakes on...     sorry!
>
> So anyway.
> Karl off work at 7:00am and does some refreshing Oldsmobiling over the
> interstate to his Chi-town abode.
> A breif pause at the new and spare parts depot (same locale) and off to the
> mech's to present them with SOM a scant 10-15 minutes after they open. 
Request
> they install the last shock absorber (have had part but was loathe to wait
> about during daylight hours for them to do job), and have a gander at the
> drivers rear brake drum.
>
> And Karl lols about after walking home reading and writing Emails (don't
> fiddle with that adjusting screw Matt!) to various people. 4 hours later get
> call and go fetch SOM.
>
> Shock on.
>
> But.
>
> Shoe grab is caused be diff oil leaking past seal.
> Attempts at installing new seal failed because......
>
> The axle tube is out of round!
> Seal cannot seat/seal properly.
>
> DOH!!!
>
> So, Karl needs a rear axle for SOM.
>
> This is not a catastrophe!
> Karl still has 3-5 "virtual" parts cars at ~moderate~ driving distances from
> him.
> One in South Beloit (not positive that there IS a rear axle on), one further
> north (but a Holiday model), and a Celeb Sedan and two Delta 88's just north
> of Peoria.
>
> Last three got Rears on.
> A Delta rear might be better, more likely to be anti-spin or a higher 
gearing.
> Only real prob is that at the Peoria place, REALLY tough to get to cars.
> Lotsa clambering and scrambling UP hills.
> 'Course, since Karl definitely buying, probably get ~conveyed~ as far as
> possible and aided in retrieval.
>
> So, any caveats about axles lying fallow but under load for years?
>
> And: Will other 1965-67 rears definitely bolt on?
>
> Will shy away from Jetstar-88, smaller in general.
>
> OK, not driving no more today.
> <Psssht!>
> <Clink, clink, bla-blurp>
> <blup-blup-blup>
>
> (Karl three-fisting!)
>
> BTW Karl will probably not be avail for RT or ICQ until mebbe 2am central 
time
> Saturday when usually a ICQ chat with the Oldsmagnet occurs.
>
> Thanks all!
>
> SOM
>
> &KA
> ICQ #20414415
> http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
> http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 13:19:43 EDT
> From: KarlAune@aol.com
> Subject: Front Cover Install was: Oil pan sealage
>
> In a message dated 98-10-22 14:50:36 EDT, you write:
>
> << It's also important not to tighten down the oil pan until you at least get
> the front cover back on the dowl pins. There is no way you can get the cover
> and seal back on if the oil pan is securely bolted down. >>
>
> It can be done!
>
> It just sucks!
>
> Karl did this after a timing chain swap.
> Pan never left motor.
> Motor never left mounts.
>
> With the seal (~properly~ trimmed and) attached to the cover (as the rubber
> "pins" will stay in the holes in the channel) you must compress the seal
> against the lip of the oil pan, and then move the top of the cover towards 
the
> block while maintaining force on the cover to keep the seal compressed.
>
> Realize that at a specific point when the top of the front cover gets
> appreciably close to the engine block, the seal will tend to slide forward 
off
> of the oil pan sealing surface!
>
> That sucks!
>
> Here is where dexterity or an extra set of hands come in handy.
>
> As soon as possible, start one of the lowest nuts on bolt threads projecting
> through the front cover as you muscle it on. As soon as possible, as low as
> possible.
>
> As you continue to muscle the cover on (keep the force up!) also continue to
> turn the nut and start others. Until the top of the front cover is very close
> to being seated (front cover nearly perpendicular to ground), you are not out
> of the woods.
>
> Kinda tough for about 20 mins, but beats the hell out of disconnecting and
> raising the motor, dropping the pan........
>
> SOM
>
> &KA
> ICQ #20414415
> http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
> http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:10:02 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Itatt4u2@webtv.net (Corey A. Cassell)
> Subject: 1964 F-85
>
> I've just recieved a 64 F-85 cutlas. I Know that it has a 330 Rocket,
> but my question is does it or did it come with aluminum heads?????
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:17:51 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Itatt4u2@webtv.net (Corey A. Cassell)
> Subject: 1964 F-85
>
>             I also have the vin number....
>       its   824  B  003468..... this may help some...
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:23:01 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Itatt4u2@webtv.net (Corey A. Cassell)
> Subject: Re: 1964 F-85
>
> - --WebTV-Mail-769602166-4043
> Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit
>
> I've gotten a 64 F-85 Cutlas with the vin #           824  B
> 003468..... I was enterested in wondering if the 330 Rocket had aluminum
> heads?????HELP
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> - --WebTV-Mail-769602166-4043
> Content-Disposition: Inline
> Content-Type: Message/RFC822
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit
>
> Received: from mailsorter-101.iap.bryant.webtv.net
(mailsorter-101.iap.bryant.webtv.net > 	[207.79.35.91]) by
postoffice-121.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8/po.gso.24Feb98) > 	with ESMTP id
LAA29253; Fri, 23 Oct 1998 11:18:54 -0700 (PDT) > Received: from
halifax.chebucto.ns.ca (halifax.chebucto.ns.Ca > 	[192.75.95.75]) by
mailsorter-101.iap.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8/ms.graham.14Aug97) > 	with 
ESMTP id
LAA27639; Fri, 23 Oct 1998 11:18:47 -0700 (PDT) > Received: by
halifax.chebucto.ns.ca id <34782-18503>; Fri, 23 Oct 1998 > 	15:18:27 
-0300 >
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halifax.chebucto.ns.ca with ESMTP id <33322-18504>; Fri, 23 Oct 1998 15:18:21
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production@localhost) by mailtod-121.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8/mt.gso.08Dec97) >
	id LAA02026; Fri, 23 Oct 1998 11:17:51 -0700 (PDT) > 
X-WebTV-Signature: 1 >
	ETAtAhUAsHJuChE8yY04PwHtuBiR9k9OZ88CFFo5TOd1B4kW2oBowxnkaHk69q6i > 
From:
Itatt4u2@webtv.net (Corey A. Cassell) > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:17:51 -0400
(EDT) > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca > Subject: 1964 F-85 > Message-ID:
<275-3630C84F-6550@mailtod-121.bryant.webtv.net> > Content-Type: Text/Plain;
Charset=US-ASCII > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit > MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) 
>
X-Orcpt: rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h
chebucto.ns.ca oldsmobile-mml" > Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca >
Precedence: bulk > Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca > >             I also
have the vin number.... >       its   824  B  003468..... this may help 
some... >
 > > > > > > > > > - --WebTV-Mail-769602166-4043-- > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:28:41 -0400 (EDT) 
>
From: Itatt4u2@webtv.net (Corey A. Cassell) > Subject: ???????? > >        I
have a 1964 F-85 Cutlas and I was wanting to know who I could > talk to about 
it
....     if anyone would like to discuss it e-mail me > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 12:30:59 -0600 >
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca> > Subject: Re: 1964 F-85 > > Just
looked it up on Drew's VIN decoder: > 8=V8 > 2=F-85 Cutlass > 4=1964 >
B=Baltimore, MD > 003468=Unique number that I thought started at 100001. > > >
Corey A. Cassell wrote: > > > >             I also have the vin number.... > >
its   824  B  003468..... this may help some... > > - -- > > Cliff Simpson >
csimpson@ucalgary.ca > '69 442/400/th400/3.23p (Kermit) > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 12:35:01 -0600 (MDT) 
>
From: Timothy Hall <hallt@athena.csdco.com> > Subject: Whitewalls > > Looking
for 1.5" (not really very wide) whitewalls for 15" rims. > Preferable size,
235-75R-15. Can't find anything but 1/2" whites from > local tire companies or
2"-3" (expensive) ones from Coker and the like. > Thought of buffing but that
leaves a ragged look. Does anyone have any > suggestions, have any such tires
you want to sell, etc? > > Tim Hall > Denver > '57 J2 Rocket > '67 Cutlass 455 
>
 > ------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:42:30 EDT >
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com > Subject: Re: Whitewalls > > In a message dated
10/23/98 1:37:14 PM EST, hallt@athena.csdco.com writes: > > << Looking for 1.5"
(not really very wide) whitewalls for 15" rims. >  Preferable size, 235-75R-15
>> > Try coker or cooper Blems. Prolly won't be able to see the diff and the $
will > be a whole lot less. > Bruce > > ------------------------------ > >
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:46:01 -0400 (EDT) > From: Itatt4u2@webtv.net (Corey 
A.
Cassell) > Subject: ?????? > >     My F-85 has some weird numbers also on the
ID plate on the > firewall... I could only look up some of the numbers but year
one > couldn't help me that much...if I send out those numbers could someone >
help, if so e-mail me,PLEASE... > > > ------------------------------ > >
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 20:54:58 +0200 > From: hezzo <442@swipnet.se> > Subject:
pics442 -70 > > New to the list. > pics of my 442. >
http://hem2.passagen.se/hezzo/Index.htm > > ------------------------------ > >
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:01:15 -0500 (CDT) > From: hitson@i1.net (roger 
hitson) >
Subject: testing non-thermal fan clutch > > I have my cooling system apart &
have just bought new water pump & radiator > ('68 S 350).  In the interest of
trying to save a few bucks, would like to > know if anyone can tell me a way to
check non-thermal type fan clutch while > it is off the car. > > thnx > >
roger hitson > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998
11:50:23 +0000 > From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net> > Subject: Re: 1964
F-85 > > At 02:10 PM 10/23/98 -0400, you wrote: > >I've just recieved a 64 F-85
cutlas. I Know that it has a 330 Rocket, > >but my question is does it or did 
it
come with aluminum heads????? > > > > the 330 didn't have aluminum heads > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 11:57:06 +0000 >
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net> > Subject: Re: Front Cover Install was:
Oil pan sealage > > > > >Here is where dexterity or an extra set of hands come
in handy. > > > > > it also helps if you atach the water pump to the front 
cover
 > (with just the self tapping screws). this way you can use the pump as a
handle > and have one hand free to do other stuff. :) > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:18:04 -0500 >
From: "Tracy H. Shires" <twodogs@ou.edu> > Subject: HeadBolt torque??? > >
UGGHH.. I left my mondello tech book at the wrong house.. > Can someone tell 
how
much torque to put on the headbolts. I have arp bolts, > and mondello's manual
gives a slightly different number for em.. > > Thanks for your help > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:49:27 -0400 >
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu> > Subject: FW: Rance EFI > > This guys's
interested in the Rance EFI systems for 455's and 403's first installed in the
GMC > motorhomes.  I don't have a clue...so forwarding. > > His e-mail address
is given.  Thanks. > > Jason Adcock > Blacksburg, VA > ICQ: 5860857 > E-Mail:
jadcock@vt.edu > Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock > > - -----Original
Message----- > From:	T-n-J [SMTP:nhzlv@pensys.com] > Sent:	
Friday, October 23,
1998 12:26 PM > To:	jadcock@vt.edu > Subject:	Re: Rance EFI > 
Importance:	High >
 > I am not on the Olds or G-Body list at home, can you blast it out on the
lists > to see if anyone has any experience with these Olds powered mammoths?
They > held the 455 on as long as they could but they eventually had to make 
way
for > the 403 for 77 and 78 when the GMC Motorhome went extinct.  I never knew
these > were front wheel drive until my friend made me stick my head under one!
They > are the biggest Toro known to man!  Slightly different sheet metal <g>. 
>
 > Tom > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 15:31:36
+0100 > From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu> > Subject: Re:
HeadBolt torque??? > > Tracy H. Shires wrote: > > > > UGGHH.. I left my
mondello tech book at the wrong house.. > > Can someone tell how much torque to
put on the headbolts. I have arp bolts, > > and mondello's manual gives a
slightly different number for em.. > > > > Thanks for your help > > It says
7/16" get 85 lbs > ARP 90lbs > and 1/2" get 130 lbs > ARP 30 lbs > BUT > "if
using ARP Moly Assembly Lube, torque value will be less, check ARP >
specifications before tightening." > > - -- > ************* > Matt Cremean >
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu > +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+ > 1975 
Cutlass
S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car" > 1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe
(350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow" > 1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl)
"The Unit" > 1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi" >
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+= >
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/ >
************************************************** > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 15:32:04 EDT > From:
KarlAune@aol.com > Subject: Re: 1964 F-85 > > In a message dated 98-10-23
14:14:41 EDT, you write: > > << I've just recieved a 64 F-85 cutlas. I Know
that it has a 330 Rocket, >  but my question is does it or did it come with
aluminum heads????? >> > > No, no aluminium Cylinder heads. > > Most likely
the original heads would have a large "1" on the left-most edge of > the head.
Possibly a "1A". > > The 330 is likely to be iron with high nickel content
(good) with iron > cylinder heads. > > To be honest, Karl beleives that even
the 215cid aluminium block had iron > cylinder heads. > > However, if you are
not satisfied with the current Cyl heads, you may be able > to bolt on any
modern-type small block Olds cyl heads! From "5" to "5A". > > > SOM > > &KA >
ICQ #20414415 > http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html >
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html > > ------------------------------ > 
>
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 15:34:22 EDT > From: KarlAune@aol.com > Subject: Rear
axle compatibility. > > Will a 1970 full-size Olds rear axle be fully
compatible to "swap out" a 1965 > full sizes axle??? > > Thanks. > > SOM > >
&KA > ICQ #20414415 > http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html 
>
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html > > ------------------------------ > 
>
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 15:44:16 -0400 (EDT) > From: Itatt4u2@webtv.net (Corey 
A.
Cassell) > Subject: Re: Rear axle compatibility. > > -
--WebTV-Mail-1180695134-1266 > Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII >
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit > > indeed it will ... i put a 72 rear-end in a
64 > > > > > > > > > > - --WebTV-Mail-1180695134-1266 >
Content-Disposition: Inline > Content-Type: Message/RFC822 >
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit > > Received: from
mailsorter-102.bryant.webtv.net (mailsorter-102.iap.bryant.webtv.net >
	[207.79.35.92]) by postoffice-121.bryant.webtv.net 
(8.8.8/po.gso.24Feb98) >
	with ESMTP id MAA25503; Fri, 23 Oct 1998 12:39:24 -0700 (PDT) > 
Received: from
halifax.chebucto.ns.ca (halifax.chebucto.ns.Ca > 	[192.75.95.75]) by
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id
MAA02130; Fri, 23 Oct 1998 12:39:22 -0700 (PDT) > Received: by
halifax.chebucto.ns.ca id <36565-18504>; Fri, 23 Oct 1998 > 	16:38:50 
-0300 >
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ident: "TIMEDOUT") by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca with ESMTP id <34947-18503>; Fri,
23 Oct 1998 16:38:03 -0300 > Received: from KarlAune@aol.com by 
imo29.mx.aol.com
(IMOv16.1) id > 	WBVRa03767 for <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; Fri, 23 
Oct 1998 >
	15:34:22 -0400 (EDT) > From: KarlAune@aol.com > Message-ID:
<595235a7.3630da3e@aol.com> > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 15:34:22 EDT > To:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca > Mime-Version: 1.0 > Subject: Rear axle
compatibility. > Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII >
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit > X-Mailer: AOL 3.0 for Windows 95 sub 52 >
X-Orcpt: rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h
chebucto.ns.ca oldsmobile-mml" > Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca >
Precedence: bulk > Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca > > Will a 1970
full-size Olds rear axle be fully compatible to "swap out" a 1965 > full sizes
axle??? > > Thanks. > > SOM > > &KA > ICQ #20414415 >
http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html >
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html > > - --WebTV-Mail-1180695134-1266-- 
>
 > ------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 15:41:17 -0400 >
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM > Subject: Re: 1964 F-85 > > To be honest, Karl
beleives that even the 215cid aluminium block had iron > cylinder heads. >
________ > > Nope.  All aluminum.  You are thinking of the Vega motor, which
did have an > aluminum block and iron head. > > Joe Padavano >
padavano.joe@orbital.com > > 66 442 > 68 W-30 > 69 H/O > 69 442 > 70 W-30 > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 16:05:02 EDT > From:
ChazToone@aol.com > Subject: '71 Contvertible > > Looking for information on
how to replace the convertible top locks (latches?) > on a 1971 Cutlass 
Supreme.
While I'm on the subject of ragtops, I've noticed > that the molding around the
top, where the boot slips under, seems to be > getting loose.  Any suggestions
for tightening?? > > ChazToone@aol.com > > '71 Cutlass Supreme > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 16:17:34 +0100 >
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu> > Subject: Karl: 2-jets > >
Aren't my carb and your carb the same? > > - -- > ************* > Matt Cremean 
>
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu > +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+ > 1975 
Cutlass
S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car" > 1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe
(350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow" > 1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl)
"The Unit" > 1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi" >
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+= >
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/ >
************************************************** > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 13:23:57 -0700 >
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com> > Subject: RE: Rear axle compatibility. 
>
 > Karl, > If memory serves, you're looking for Big Car rear axles from 65-70.
I think > in 71 Olds went to a different Ujoint design. I'd guess that makes it
a > generational change. Earlier years are more desirable in my experience as 
in >
the later years (say 68 and later...) they had a lot more freeway gears as >
opposed to off the line gears like 3.08's and 3.23's. If you're lucky you'll >
get a 3.08. I've never seen a 3.23, but I currently have a 2.73 in my 98 > 
(and
don't like it...) with a spare 3.08 ring&pinion waiting to go in at > some
point. I'm also hoarding a spare Axle for each side, but I tossed the > 
housing,
sorry. > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: KarlAune@aol.com
[mailto:KarlAune@aol.com] > > Sent: Friday, October 23, 1998 12:34 PM > > To:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca > > Subject: Rear axle compatibility. > > > > > >
Will a 1970 full-size Olds rear axle be fully compatible to > > "swap out" a
1965 > > full sizes axle??? > > > > Thanks. > > > > SOM > > > > &KA > > ICQ
#20414415 > > http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html > >
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html > > > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 16:25:01 EDT > From:
JonKrisInc@aol.com > Subject: free intake manifold > > In a message dated
10/23/98 3:05:09 PM EST, postmaster@chebucto.ns.ca writes: > > << I've just
replaced the intake manifold on my 350 and was wondering what to > do >  with
the original. I can't think of a good reason to keep it, but I can't >  throw
out a perfectly good original part. So if anyone can use it, e-mail me >
directly. If you can arrange to get it, there's no charge. >  Bruce >  75 Delta
88 conv. >> > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998
16:26:43 EDT > From: KarlAune@aol.com > Subject: Re: Rear axle compatibility. 
> >
In a message dated 98-10-23 15:46:53 EDT, you write: > > <<  i put a 72
rear-end in a 64 >> > > Uh, a 1973 rear axle in a 1964 what model? > > SOM > >
&KA > ICQ #20414415 > http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html 
>
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html > > ------------------------------ > 
>
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 16:18:45 EDT > From: KarlAune@aol.com > Subject: Re:
HeadBolt torque??? > > In a message dated 98-10-23 15:26:30 EDT, you write: > >
<< and 1/2" get 130 lbs >  ARP 30 lbs >> > > Whoa! > > What is so special
about ARP that they get 100# less torque than normal 1/2" > bolts? > > SOM > >
&KA > ICQ #20414415 > http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html 
>
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html > > ------------------------------ > 
>
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 16:41:10 -0400 (EDT) > From: Itatt4u2@webtv.net (Corey 
A.
Cassell) > Subject: Re: Rear axle compatibility. > > -
--WebTV-Mail-506951281-4100 > Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII >
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit > > i  haven't actually put it in but its a
70-72 olds cutlas  and its going > into a 64 F-85... my mechanic said it would
bolt right up...should i > find another rear end or will it work???? > > > > >
 > > > > > - --WebTV-Mail-506951281-4100 > Content-Disposition: Inline >
Content-Type: Message/RFC822 > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit > > Received:
from mailsorter-102.bryant.webtv.net (mailsorter-102.iap.bryant.webtv.net >
	[207.79.35.92]) by postoffice-122.bryant.webtv.net 
(8.8.8/po.gso.24Feb98) >
	with ESMTP id NAA28968; Fri, 23 Oct 1998 13:28:49 -0700 (PDT) > 
Received: from
halifax.chebucto.ns.ca (halifax.chebucto.ns.Ca > 	[192.75.95.75]) by
mailsorter-102.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8/ms.graham.14Aug97) > 	with ESMTP 
id
NAA06482; Fri, 23 Oct 1998 13:28:39 -0700 (PDT) > Received: by
halifax.chebucto.ns.ca id <35144-10046>; Fri, 23 Oct 1998 > 	17:28:24 
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Received: from imo18.mx.aol.com ([198.81.17.8]:1613 "EHLO > 	
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23 Oct 1998 17:27:55 -0300 > Received: from KarlAune@aol.com by 
imo18.mx.aol.com
(IMOv16.10) id > 	WSWSa29193 for <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; Fri, 23 
Oct 1998 >
	16:26:43 -0400 (EDT) > From: KarlAune@aol.com > Message-ID:
<1b3f71c5.3630e683@aol.com> > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 16:26:43 EDT > To:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca > Mime-Version: 1.0 > Subject: Re: Rear axle
compatibility. > Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII >
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit > X-Mailer: AOL 3.0 for Windows 95 sub 52 >
X-Orcpt: rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h
chebucto.ns.ca oldsmobile-mml" > Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca >
Precedence: bulk > Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca > > In a message dated
98-10-23 15:46:53 EDT, you write: > > <<  i put a 72 rear-end in a 64 >> > >
Uh, a 1973 rear axle in a 1964 what model? > > SOM > > &KA > ICQ #20414415 >
http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html >
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html > > - --WebTV-Mail-506951281-4100-- >
 > ------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 16:49:44 EDT >
From: KarlAune@aol.com > Subject: Karl's Reply to Matt: 2-Jets! > > In a
message dated 98-10-23 16:23:21 EDT, you write: > > << Aren't my carb and your
carb the same? >> > > If you mean our 2-jets (the one from your 350 and the one
on my 425), then not > neccesarily (sp?). > > (did this need to be public?) > >
As Karl mentioned on two different occasions in past few weeks, there were >
many variants on the 2-Jet. 6 different venturii sizes and 2 different >
throttle plate sizes. Older (smaller) throttle plate was one venturii size >
[according to Roe!!]. The Other 5 venturii sizes are all the same size >
throttle plate. > > The real difference between venturii sizes is the intended
vacc drop at the > nozzle, or rather, how the venturi ~shape~ magnifies the 
vacc
signal for > optimal vacc at the discharge nozzles. > > >From Roe: > 1 & 1/4"
flange... > > 1 & 1/2" flange, 1 &11/16 throttle bore > 1 & 3/16 venturii  =
352   cfm > 1 &  1/4  venturii   =  381   cfm > 1 &  5/16 venturii  =  423   
cfm >
1 &  3/8  venturii  =  435    cfm > > Now it is, from an aeshetic standpoint,
downright painful for me to listen to > my carb wheeze air in, but I would hope
that mine is the 1 & 3/8" venturii > model. > > As Karl mentioned on Rocket
Talk, he would be interested in locating a 1972 or > thereabouts Q-Jet with
~integral~ choke. > > SOM > > &KA > ICQ #20414415 >
http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html >
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html > > ------------------------------ > 
>
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 18:25:25 -0300 (ADT) > From: Greg Beaulieu
<ab348@chebucto.ns.ca> > Subject: UNBOUNCE: Fr*e Intake Manifold > > The word
"Fr*e" (i.e. no charge) in the subject line caused this one to > bounce...
forwarding. > > Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova
Scotia, Canada > > - ---------- Forwarded message ---------- >
From:	JonKrisInc@aol.com > Subject: fr*e intake manifold > > << I've 
just
replaced the intake manifold on my 350 and was wondering what to > do >  with
the original. I can't think of a good reason to keep it, but I can't >  throw
out a perfectly good original part. So if anyone can use it, e-mail me >
directly. If you can arrange to get it, there's no charge. >  Bruce >  75 Delta
88 conv. >> > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998
17:35:09 -0400 > From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM > Subject: Re: Rear axle
compatibility. > > i  haven't actually put it in but its a 70-72 olds cutlas
and its going > into a 64 F-85... my mechanic said it would bolt right
up...should i > find another rear end or will it work???? > _________ > > Uh,
people, could we focus please?  One thread was discussing swapping > axles in
full size cars, and now we're talking about A-body cars.  There's > a big
difference. > > Also, in reference to the specific case noted above, while you
will be able > to physically bolt a 68-72 axle to a 64-67 frame, there are a 
few
problems. > First, the 68-72 axles are about an inch wider than the early 
axles. >
Second, the 64-67 cars have slightly different attach locations on the > 
housing
for the upper control arms; if you bolt in a later axle the pinion > angle will
be wrong, resulting in vibration and U-joint problems.  Third, > the 64-66 
axles
use a different lower spring perch than the 67-72 axles > (which makes 67 a
one-of-a-kind year - early style axle with later style > spring perches).  In
this case, you'd need to use 67 springs, which will > fit a 64-66 frame with 
the
67 axle. > > Joe Padavano > padavano.joe@orbital.com > > 66 442 > 68 W-30 > 69
H/O > 69 442 > 70 W-30 > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23
Oct 1998 15:09:06 -0700 (PDT) > From: Tammy Isham <tammyi@rocketmail.com> >
Subject: [none] > > Hi Everybody, > I hope this message reach everyone of you
doing well. >  I have a new email address.  It is > joy2day@internetx.net.
Please take note of it if you > like.  Take care of yourselves. > > Tammy > > >
=== > Tammy Isham > email:  tammyi@rocketmail.com > > > It does me no injury
for my neighbor to say there are > twenty gods > or no God.  It neither picks 
my
pocket nor breaks my > leg. > - -- Thomas Jefferson > > > >
_________________________________________________________ > DO YOU YAHOO!? > 
Get
your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 18:27:28 -0400 >
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com> > Subject: Re: Whitewalls > >
Go to www.tirenet.com .  A friend of mine got decent 2 inch whitewalls for > 
his
'54 Super 88 droptop from these people for something like $65 apiece. > Nice,
quiet radials.  Peter. > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23
Oct 1998 17:42:14 -0500 > From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net> > Subject: 
Re:
Daytona under the lights, 8:00 > > wasn't going to reply to the list but it was
taken out of context. I used > to race for a LIVING, it was a joke, meaning "I
wonder if the Kid would be > as fast after a good bump" which I have had, and
most drivers have had. NO > ONE wants to seen a person or equip. torn up, damn
sure NOT the driver. > Still have my USAC, NHRA, IHRA, and AHRA pro licenses.
Not an apology, just > an explanation. I've already paid my dues! > Lou Biggs >
lbiggs@intertek.net > - ---------- > > From: KS7RACING@aol.com > > To:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca > > Subject: Re: Daytona under the lights, 8:00 > >
Date: Thursday, October 22, 1998 9:34 PM > > > > Ron, > > > > Thanks for
pointing that out (crashes being the last thing on a > fan's/driver's > > 
mind),
so many times here in Kansas City the only times the local > stick-and- > > 
ball
yappers (sportscasters) mention racing is when someone gets hurt. > For > >
teams like us, out there looking for people to sponsor our racing > efforts, > 
>
lack of media exposure is a big problem. > > > > Take Care, > > Ken Snyder > >
Kansas City, Kansas > > ks7racing@aol.com > > ------------------------------ > 
>
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 16:43:00 -0600 > From: Cliff Simpson
<csimpson@ucalgary.ca> > Subject: Can I make a 455 out of a G block 400? > >
Dumb question time. > > 	Since the 455 and the later 400 engines share 
the same >
stroke, can I just bore my 400 out to 455?  The 400 is a G > block with the F2
code on the back.  I thought I read > somewhere in the FAQ that you could bore
this block out to > 4.125" without sonic testing. > > 	I have a freshly 
honed
'70 455 F engine with E heads that > the machine shop said should be bored.  I
whined about the > high cost of pistons and they agreed that I could probably >
get away with just honing it.  Since then I have started to > have my doubts
about putting this together and probably > getting too much piston slap and
loose fitting rings. > > 	One of the reasons I would like to bore the 
400 out
is then > I would have the correct letter code engine in my car, > right?  
Since
the 455 was not available in a plain 442 in > '69 the F block is a dead 
giveaway
that something's been > done. > > 	And since I already paid to have the 
E heads
re-done would > it be worth my while to have the 400's C heads done?  Is > 
there
really much of a difference? > > 	Thanks in advance.  This list has 
renewed my
interest in my > car. > > > - -- > > Cliff Simpson > csimpson@ucalgary.ca >
'69 442/400/th400/3.23p (Kermit) > > ------------------------------ > > Date:
Fri, 23 Oct 1998 19:06:25 +0100 > From: Matt Cremean
<creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu> > Subject: Re: HeadBolt torque??? > >
KarlAune@aol.com wrote: > > > > In a message dated 98-10-23 15:26:30 EDT, you
write: > > > > << and 1/2" get 130 lbs > >  ARP 30 lbs >> > > > > Whoa! > > >
> What is so special about ARP that they get 100# less torque than normal 1/2" 
>
> bolts? > > > > QUIET YOU! It was a typo, and you know it! :-) > - -- >
************* > Matt Cremean > mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu >
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+ > 1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6
1bbl) "parts car" > 1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The
Oldsmoslow" > 1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit" > 1983
Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi" >
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+= >
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/ >
************************************************** > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 16:11:20 -0700 (PDT) 
>
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: pics442 -70 > > - ---hezzo
<442@swipnet.se> wrote: > > > > New to the list. > > pics of my 442. > >
http://hem2.passagen.se/hezzo/Index.htm > > > > > - -----Hi....Welcome to the
list !! Nice car....noticed you had a link > to  "N Ga Junkyards....are you in
Ga? If so contact me direct...Thanks > and again, welcome to the list. >
Later, > == > John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com >   ICQ #
16956740      Lithia Springs, Ga. > TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69
442 > 1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 ! >
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/ > Check out my Burnout page-send me pics
of your's and I'll add it > - -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts >
_________________________________________________________ > DO YOU YAHOO!? > 
Get
your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com > >
------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 19:12:46 EDT > From:
DROLDS350@aol.com > Subject: Oldsmobile Screen Saver > > Can somebody please
send me the address for the Oldsmobile screen saver? I had > it, and then it 
got
lost. Can anybody h*lp? > Thanks, > Jim McKeague >
http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html > > ------------------------------ > 
>
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 16:32:24 -0700 > From: Greg Rollin
<supercars@transport.com> > Subject: Re: Can I make a 455 out of a G block 
400? >
 > Cliff Simpson wrote: > > > >         Since the 455 and the later 400
engines share the same > > stroke, can I just bore my 400 out to 455?  The 400
is a G > > block with the F2 code on the back.  I thought I read > > somewhere
in the FAQ that you could bore this block out to > > 4.125" without sonic
testing. > > > > Cliff, > The maximum factory recommended oversize on the 400 
>
is .060"  In order to fit standard 455 pistons, you > would need to remove 
.255"
from the bore.  That's > just a bit more than a quarter of an inch. > There
is simply not enough material in the bore > to remove that much. > > >
Greg Rollin > Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) >
503-244-8249 > http://www.supercarsunlimited.com > E-mail:
supercars@transport.com > > ------------------------------ > > End of
oldsmobile-digest V1 #1567 > ********************************* > >

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1568
*********************************
