Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
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cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1589


oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, November 5 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1589



Pre-fab dual exhaust anyone?
RE: Another Olds overheating-need h*lp
Convertible Question
Re: Pre-fab dual exhaust anyone?
Re: Baaad Day!!!!!
RE: buying car
Re: Another Olds overheating-need h*lp
74 442 for sale or parts
re:74 442 for sale or parts
Re: Show Quality Chrome Plater
Re: new E-Mail
Re: Show Quality Front Bumper
Re: november jwo
Re: wmachine; there are real racers here
Re: metal in oil, ASAP HELP
Re: wmachine; there are real racers here
Re: buying car
Re: buying car
Re: metal in oil, ASAP HELP
Re: Another Olds overheating-need h*lp
Re: buying car
Childs&Albert Gapless Rings
Mondello's Cryogenic Bearings!!
Found build sheet...
Re: buying car - Oldsmagnet's considerations...
New Motor, HOT TEMPS
Re: metal in oil, ASAP HELP
re. wmachine,there are real racers here
Re: 403 vs 307 HO
Re: Found build sheet...
Re: Another Olds overheating-need h*lp
Re: metal in oil, ASAP HELP
Re: buying car
Wheels & Window Stickers
parting W31 body and chassis parts

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 23:04:35 +0000
From: "Joe Gerschutz" <gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu>
Subject: Pre-fab dual exhaust anyone?

Does anyone know of a maker or place to get a prefabricated dual 
exhaust setup (from headers or manifolds) for an 82 Cutlass? Jegs has 
a "Universal Header Dual Kit" for $90 thats ~supposed~ to fit 
anything, according to their tech person.  I don't want to do any 
welding, and don't want to pay for a custom job, so should I try this 
route?  Has anyone else had a similiar experience?  Right now I have 
single 1.75" or 2" and my 350 is choking to death I think.  


T I A
J O E

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 23:02:52 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Another Olds overheating-need h*lp

Unless you just put those gears in, I'd rule out that possibility.  If the
mechanic added coolant, that probably means you're losing it somewhere.
unless of course if he just overfilled it and that's why you leaked in the
garage.  Crawl under the car and check for stains on the oil pan that look
like water was running down it.  Also crawl under the car when it's running,
and is nice and warmed up, and check for water draining from a small hole
next to where the lower radiator hose connects to the water pump.  The hole
will be toward the inside of the car, next to the rad hose.  Just be careful
it doesn't drip in your eye or something.  If you see a leak, you've gotta
replace the pump.  In the mean-time, be sure you're running at full
capacity.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of DKlauber@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 10:17 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Another Olds overheating-need h*lp


I took my 70 W-30 conv to the mechanic to get an opinion on an oil leak, and
he also said it was running hot because the fan clutch was not engaging.  He
also added some coolant.  When I got home it was hotter than ever and leaked
all over the garage once I shut it off.  I then replaced the fan clutch last
weekend, and its still running hot.  I talked to the guy I bought it from
and
he thinks that it is the 3:91 rear that is doing it, but even with that I
think I should be able to drive more than 10 miles at 2500-3000 rpm without
it
overheating.  The car is a near perfect frame off restoration, but I'm
getting
P.O.'d since I can't drive it to any shows lately.  Temps in Phoenix
currently
about 50-mid 70 range.  Any ideas????  Thanks
David OCA #30416
1970 442 W-30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 23:03:10 -0500
From: "Shpud" <shpud@hotmail.com>
Subject: Convertible Question

Okay list, here's the question.
How exactly should the back of the top, boot cover etc. fit together on the 
back 
of a 67 convertible? It's a Delmont, (I'm sure you ALL know that by now, 
sorry) I 
have never seen it with it's top intact, and right now all i've got holding it 
down 
are some temporary snaps. The top is on the car, but there are no snaps 
actually in the top, just in the bottom of the rear window which I put there 
myself because it works for now, but there appears to be nowhere to connect 
the boot cover to when the top is up, leaving a big gaping hole right into the 
trunk. Can anyone provide me with a little guidance on this one, or even a 
picture or diagram of what everything should look like? Thanks.

Spruce Schintz
- ----------------------------------------------------
If you have ICQ my ICQ# is 1206779
If you don't have ICQ you can page me through:
* My Communication Center: http://wwp.mirabilis.com/1206779 (go there and try 
it!)
* Or you can send me e-mail to 1206779@pager.mirabilis.com
- ----------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 20:08:12 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Pre-fab dual exhaust anyone?

At 11:04 PM 11/4/98 +0000, you wrote:
>Does anyone know of a maker or place to get a prefabricated dual 
>exhaust setup (from headers or manifolds) for an 82 Cutlass? Jegs has 
>a "Universal Header Dual Kit" for $90 thats ~supposed~ to fit 
>anything, according to their tech person. 

Just remember that most "universal" systems exit in front of the rear wheels.
In some states that is a cop magnet. they also never fit anything "right",
but 
will work. If it is a header system you HAVE to have headers or do some 
welding because of the 3" 3 bolt connectors.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 23:26:02 -0500
From: "person" <vbdeveloper@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!

Thanks to all who have answered. There were a lot of good points for me to
ponder. Now  good news and  bad news. Good news is the OLDS is far from
totaled. I will need to replace hood, fender, bumper and some chrome trim,
but the car is still drivable(somewhat). The only problem is that the tire
rubs against the  crushed fender when making sharp turns. Now the bad news.
I had the pleasure of killing a Dollar rent-a-car rice-burner. The company
is self-insured and of course is already giving me the run-around. First of
all
their liability coverage is secondary to drivers liability coverage. Second,
the driver does not appear to have been authorized to drive that car. I am
saying "appear", because the risk-management of Dollar kicked in as soon as
I started making waves. The first person I spoke to said something like
"That does not sound like the same name" and promptly transferred me to RM.
Now, they will wait till tomorrow to get the police report (they did not
trust me faxing it to them, I guess).And third, and probably worst, the
driver holds a Swedish drivers license, but has given the police a local
address, which is a rental property. I do, thankfully, have full
comprehensive coverage on the car(overkill to some, but not to me). My
insurance agent advised me to attempt settling with the other side myself.
If my insurance company gets involved, they will probably raise my insurance
premium next year(????????). I guess I will get punished for the other
driver's stupidity. My attorney basically said the same thing. At least I
will get my car fixed, so the lawsuit will have to be handled by my
insurance company. Again, I really appreciate everyone's concern and
replies. I am off to fight for my car. More to follow...

==========================================================
'69 Olds Ninety-Eight Topless (and slightly hurt, but soon to be fixed)
Bubba=
==========================================================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 20:55:11 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: buying car

This car isn't located in the Kentucky, Tennesse area is it?  I ran 
across a car looking exactly like this and it was a fake that was being 
old as original.  If it is the same car it will have a chevy spoke 
steering wheel.


><html>
><body>
><img src="http://www.geocities.com/rainforest/canopy/4535/442.html">
></body>
></html>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 22:56:12 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Another Olds overheating-need h*lp

First things first.  Even though the car is a perfect frame off if your
going
to drive it regularly you be better off to add an expansion tank and a lower
pressure cap.  On my 72 I mounted the tank through a bolt that was already
there so you don't have to worry about drilling or anything.  A good water
temp gauge is a must (especially where you live) since lights and factory
gauges are almost worthless.  The next thing is to make sure you properly
filled the radiator.  When the level gets really low you have to refill the
rad but
let it sit down a couple inches from the neck.  Start the car up and watch
the rad while it warms up.  The coolant level will slowly rise and when the
thermostat opens it will drop suddenly.  How far it drops depends on how
much air was trapped in the motor.  If you didn't do this it will cause it
to still
run hot.  If you have a stuck thermostat that would also cause your problem.
It would keep you from getting all the air out of the motor and keep the
water
from circulating.  It could also just need a cooler one.  It's not hard to
pull the
thermostat and if you suspect it you can pull it out, check what temp it is
(should
be stamped on it), and bench test it (put it in a pot of water and set it on
the
stove to watch it open).  Whether or not you have a rad shroud should not
make a difference given that its not the middle of summer and were talking
short trips.  If everything else checks out it would probably be either a
clogged radiator or a blown head gasket.  If it was a head gasket you would
have noticable smoke coming out the exhaust but a clogged rad you would
have one hot tank and one really cool one.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

ps Definately check the weep hole as recommended earlier.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 20:10:39 -0500
From: Todd <todd@wvadventures.net>
Subject: 74 442 for sale or parts

74 442

more info at webpage no since in wastin space on here 


pics of car are up at

<http://www.wvadventures.net/home/Todd/default.html>


let me know 
Todd

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 23:02:54 -0500
From: Todd <todd@wvadventures.net>
Subject: re:74 442 for sale or parts

74 442
more info at webpage... no since in wastin space on here 
pics of car are posted at

<http://www.wvadventures.net/home/Todd/default.html>

"RE:"....ps.my mail server went nuts on me hope i didnt send this thing
more than once if so sorry guys...

later Todd  todd@wvadventures.net

72 cutlass supreme
& 74 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 00:10:02 EST
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Show Quality Chrome Plater

In a message dated 11/4/98 6:22:27 PM Eastern Standard Time,
gjcouse@francomm.com writes:

<< 
 Anyone know of a Chrome Plater in the North East. We had one local but shut
 down do to EPA. Haven't been able to find a Plater local. Say within 100 + -
 miles of Albany, NY. Anyone have info on a Plater still in business. Mom +
 Pop platters are a dying business. There is no plating control when you just
 buy off the shelf, any shelf. Even Olds bumpers etc are coming through in
 terrible condition.
 
 -----Regards, >>
         New England Bumper
         1 Dexter Rd
         East Providence, R.I. 02916
        1-401-434-6300

      His name is Joe and he does great work, I have a lot of work done by him
for my business on speculation and am very satisfied.


Everett   OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 00:16:32 EST
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: new E-Mail

In a message dated 11/3/98 8:30:41 AM Eastern Standard Time, mcornea@ford.com
writes:

<< 
 List members,
 
 	Please note that I am dumping AOL, and am picking up a new provider
 below. Thanks
  
          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                Mark Cornea (Dr. Decal)  OCA# 4903
                              1970 W30 (red)
  >>
   I will be following you shortly, I AM DUMPING AOL  they have been
preventing me from enjoying the Olds mailing list, it took me four days to
read this mail


Everett   OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 01:01:06 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Show Quality Front Bumper

In a message dated 98-11-04 18:08:44 EST, you write:

<< Hi Folks:
       We are looking for a show quality front bumper for our 1969 442
 W30  - No rust, no bumps, straight---does not need to have show quality
 chrome.
        Thank-you.   We are located in Windsor, Ontario.
 
 George & Joan Lesperance
  >>
contact Desert Dog auto parts,  I seen their work, its Grade AAAAA1  They
advertise at www.442.com  Brycmans page
W MACHINES

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 01:10:17 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: november jwo

I didnt get mine yet either

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 22:02:16 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: wmachine; there are real racers here

Shane wrote:
>   I'm here. Would love to talk drag racing. Have two '67' Cutlass', one 
street
> convertible that runs 12.92 at 99 mph and a drag Supreme that dynoed at 700 
horses
> befor spinning a cam bearing on only the second pull, never even got to see 
the
> track . Don't want to take any more bw now but you wanna talk racing, we can 
talk
> racing. I enailed you about the convertible earlier.




  Count me in as another one interested in some drag racing 
conversation (Olds related, of course).  
  Shane, any pics of your 67's?  Would love to see them!  
As well as hearing what chassis work, etc. you've done to 
contain those 700 ponies.  Inquiring minds want to know!

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 01:20:23 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: metal in oil, ASAP HELP

In a message dated 98-11-04 21:52:00 EST, you write:

<< I just went to the bodyshop to see the hood-induction that was put in
 my Delta.  The car was outside so I decided to fire it up and see how it
 runs (did not see it run in 1.5 months).  I checked the oil before I did
 (that car was cold, sat for two days) and I saw a bunch of shiny metal like
 floaters in the oil.  I did it again and same thing every time I pull the
 dipstick.  The motor is 500 miles old.  I changed the oil a couple of times
 since start up.  Motor runs good, smooth.  What the hell could it be.  One
 thing it could be is the CHROME dipstick I put in (the only dipstick I could
 find for olds).  It seams to flake at the top, when I run my finger on it,
 same particles. But I assume that it could also be bearings or rings.  What
 do I do.  There are metal shavings all over the engine compartment from
 cutting the hood, but regardless, how the hell could it have gotten in.  On
 a brand new motor, is it normal to have particles during break in or is the
 oil filter supposed to trap them all.  There is no oil consumption or
 anything.  Please help, I am freaking here.  After I ran it for a little
 while (decided to take the risk) the particles were less but still there.  I
 seriously believe that it could be the dipstick, but I don't know.  I hope
 so.  On Saturday (have two test in school tomorrow and Friday) I am going
 down there and changing the oil/filter again.  It has not been driven at
 all, except start and move out of shop, and back in.  Oh, man.  It is a 9.5
 CR. 455. HELP, ASAP, make me feel better so that I can study.  Thanks.
 
 Igor Todorovic >>

Igor, calm down, it will be ok.   When you break a new motor in such as
running it for 30 minutes at 2000rpm to break in the cam, you should change
the oil.  Then put 500 miles on the motor and change the oil again.  After
that, change oil every 3000 miles and there won't be problems.  When you
initially break a motor in, you will have some metal, but the chrome dipstick
could do it also.  Go to the local Olds dealer and buy a steel dipstick, its
non-chrome and should solve some worries.

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30 race rocket

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 01:28:57 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: wmachine; there are real racers here

In a message dated 98-11-04 20:23:54 EST, you write:

<< Sorry, but I didn't see a post about racing experience but I sure would
have
 replied.  I don't have any fast or wildly powerful cars myself but I did jig
 up and
 finished off quite a few 1/4 milers in the race shop I used to work in.  My
 thing
 is the wrench turning part because I simply can't afford it.  Right now I'm
 planning how to turn my 68 Cutlass into a WC car for the street.  Like Pro
 Street but Stock Street? Maybe Street Cup?  Still ain't figured out that
 part
 yet. >>
This is what I wrote:
Hello to all and one.  Well November 1st was the last day the Milan Dragway in
Milan Michigan was open.  So I thought for kicks, just one last time to the
track.  I made my first time trial and ran a 12.40 @ 108 mph.  My mph was down
and my time off.  As I returned to the pits, I heard a whinning sound, but it
sounded like my tires.   Well time trial number two..   Got to the burn out
box and did a good tire heating, smoke billowing burnout.   Then to the
starting line.  light goes green, I stomp and heard   rrraaaaahhhhhh
Clank!!!    Yep, tore the posi carrier in half.  I just shreaded it.   I bro-
in-law did run 12.17's with his car with no problems.

Now the big question,  Does anybody have a posi carrier from 71-87
olds,pont,buick or chev corporate 10 bolt for sale.  I don't car what gear is
on it, but I do need a posi.  Nothing outrageous please,  I could buy a new
one for 337.00.   

My car is a street cruiser,  I only race about 5 times a year at the track.  I
built the car to specs of Super STock. Its basically stock with interal mods.

To view the car and engine build, go to http://members.aol.com/wmachines
and check out my local club also called the Street Rockets.

Thanks,  Racer in need
W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30   broke  :(

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 00:45:06 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: buying car

STAY AWAY FROM IT!!!! Just by the picture it looks like a butchered
tragedy!!! The race stripes are not only COMPLETELY incorrect, but they
look STUPID & UGLY. The stripe is going down the whole front of the car and
then over the roof and probably down the top of the trunk... This thing is
most likely not a true 442 and honestly I feel that the motor and interior
are butchered... Do yourself a favor and DON'T BUY IT!!! You will probably
have electrical, mechanical & body problems you won't believe. This will
make you hate the car, but it is not the cars fault, just the butcher who
do that to the car!!!

Stay away.....stay far away...
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: buying car
> Date: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 2:41 PM
> 
> the guy says it's a daily driver.  there is a picture of it at this
location.
> 
> http://www.geocities.com/rainforest/canopy/4535/442.html
> 
> mikeytvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 00:46:54 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: buying car

Also a car that is painted white can hide ALOT of bondo and other crud
because with white paint you are less likely to notice it then on a darker
color. Whoever painted those race stripes should be burned at the stake!!!!
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: buying car
> Date: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 2:41 PM
> 
> the guy says it's a daily driver.  there is a picture of it at this
location.
> 
> http://www.geocities.com/rainforest/canopy/4535/442.html
> 
> mikeytvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 01:09:05 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: metal in oil, ASAP HELP

Well if your motor had a COMPLETE rebuild (line hone-cylinder boring-block
deck-crank grinding-etc.) and all the clearances were checked, then you
should be fine, as long as it was assembled properly. As far as "metal"
being in a new motor is not supposed to be true. A correctly assembled
motor, even though it is all new, theoretically should NOT have metal
shavings circulating. The main/rod/cam bearings don't have a seating
period, so no metal should come from them. The only POSSIBLE metal(very
minute-undetectable by human eye) is from the rings seating.

You stated that you noticed VISIBLE shavings. Drain your oil into a CLEAN
pan and check it for metal. I would maybe even go the extra route and have
it analyzed my Mobil for $10.00 (the kit is sold at AutoZone stores). After
driving awhile drain 1/2 the oil in a pan and then take a sample in the the
container they give you. Then send it in the mail and you will get a
printout of what is in the oil.

When you assembled the motor, did you check the clearances?? I'm not
talking PLASTIGAUGE here. I'm talking about using a micrometer/dial bore
gauge indicator,etc... Did you check the main housing bores? ---Torque the
mains down and run a dial gauge in there and make sure it is not out of
round and get a true reading---- The same with the rods? Not knowing who
and what you did to the motor it is hard to say if it is bad.

What is your oil pressure at? What are your cold/hot driving oil pressure
#'s at? What are your clearances at? The mains should be .0020" - .0025".
Any tighter and you will get main bearing wear. This is from Mondello/Dick
Miller and other engine builders specs....
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Igor T. '81 455DRB <igor455@home.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: metal in oil, ASAP HELP
> Date: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 8:53 PM
> 
> Crap.  I just went to the bodyshop to see the hood-induction that was put
in
> my Delta.  The car was outside so I decided to fire it up and see how it
> runs (did not see it run in 1.5 months).  I checked the oil before I did
> (that car was cold, sat for two days) and I saw a bunch of shiny metal
like
> floaters in the oil.  I did it again and same thing every time I pull the
> dipstick.  The motor is 500 miles old.  I changed the oil a couple of
times
> since start up.  Motor runs good, smooth.  What the hell could it be. 
One
> thing it could be is the CHROME dipstick I put in (the only dipstick I
could
> find for olds).  It seams to flake at the top, when I run my finger on
it,
> same particles. But I assume that it could also be bearings or rings. 
What
> do I do.  There are metal shavings all over the engine compartment from
> cutting the hood, but regardless, how the hell could it have gotten in. 
On
> a brand new motor, is it normal to have particles during break in or is
the
> oil filter supposed to trap them all.  There is no oil consumption or
> anything.  Please help, I am freaking here.  After I ran it for a little
> while (decided to take the risk) the particles were less but still there.
 I
> seriously believe that it could be the dipstick, but I don't know.  I
hope
> so.  On Saturday (have two test in school tomorrow and Friday) I am going
> down there and changing the oil/filter again.  It has not been driven at
> all, except start and move out of shop, and back in.  Oh, man.  It is a
9.5
> CR. 455. HELP, ASAP, make me feel better so that I can study.  Thanks.
> 
> Igor Todorovic
> 
> 1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
> 1981 Regency (307/propane/200-4r)
> 1981 Dodge MaxiVan (367/727/4.10s)
> 
> igor455@home.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 01:13:11 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Another Olds overheating-need h*lp

Well your buddy who says it is the 3.91 gear ratio's fault, IS WRONG!!! In
no way should the motor be overheating because of the rear gear ratio,
unless you have something in the mid to high 4's... 
Then you can run hotter because you are at a higher RPM constantly. Check
the radiator(clogs), water pump and thermostat. Was the motor recently
rebuilt?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: DKlauber@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Another Olds overheating-need h*lp
> Date: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 9:16 PM
> 
> I took my 70 W-30 conv to the mechanic to get an opinion on an oil leak,
and
> he also said it was running hot because the fan clutch was not engaging. 
He
> also added some coolant.  When I got home it was hotter than ever and
leaked
> all over the garage once I shut it off.  I then replaced the fan clutch
last
> weekend, and its still running hot.  I talked to the guy I bought it from
and
> he thinks that it is the 3:91 rear that is doing it, but even with that I
> think I should be able to drive more than 10 miles at 2500-3000 rpm
without it
> overheating.  The car is a near perfect frame off restoration, but I'm
getting
> P.O.'d since I can't drive it to any shows lately.  Temps in Phoenix
currently
> about 50-mid 70 range.  Any ideas????  Thanks
> David OCA #30416
> 1970 442 W-30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 01:16:25 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: buying car

The car looks like a fake even from the picture!! 
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: jason shreve <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: buying car
> Date: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 10:55 PM
> 
> This car isn't located in the Kentucky, Tennesse area is it?  I ran 
> across a car looking exactly like this and it was a fake that was being 
> old as original.  If it is the same car it will have a chevy spoke 
> steering wheel.
> 
> 
> ><html>
> ><body>
> ><img src="http://www.geocities.com/rainforest/canopy/4535/442.html">
> ></body>
> ></html>
> 
> 
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 01:21:01 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Childs&Albert Gapless Rings

I was looking on getting a set of rings for my 455. Does anyone out there
ever had any experience with the Childs & Albert ZGTF piston rings? These
are the zero gap rings that are supposed to seal better than any file fit
rings because there is no ring gap with the zero gap ring. Is this good for
street use? Will they last as long as normal plasma moly file fit rings?

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 01:24:22 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Mondello's Cryogenic Bearings!!

Mondello has just come out with a new set of 455 bearings that are made
using some new technology of cryogenically freezing the bearing, thus in
theory making it 30% stronger than even the tri-metal bearings. Now the
kicker is the price, about $180.00 for the main and rod bearings. Has
anyone out there tried them? Is this a "gimmick" or real race bearings? 

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 01:27:35 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Found build sheet...

Well while ripping th carpet out of my 72 442 convertible, I found the
build sheet. Luckily I noticed it because it fell while I was going to
throw away the old carpet in the garbage can. I think it was underneath the
passenger side front carpet. The paper is not ripped but is yellowing and
starting to get weak to the touch. 

Should I get it laminated so it doesn't fall apart? I know once it is
laminated, it is laminated FOR LIFE. Has anyone ever done that to their
buildsheet? 


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 00:53:44 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: buying car - Oldsmagnet's considerations...

The car looks like a fake even from the picture!!
http://www.geocities.com/rainforest/canopy/4535/442.html

Which looks like this, to some...
Î'ß®:æff?Ó3ÈLý§?={ÀL?Þz1KA´Ñ¶Z|Ë0üHb8?Î·ãæóN§ÃÐy]þEèãõÀ»J·ê×XWÕYüoãÙª
bm1*©ÛÔ¨?¢
¹3E?»0'Ë×±"ê?ÔÜFO+óy?0)3ÔL(ÂÂ2?TK?®¾ðìra¾ÆámÍk?·Ø<öç³lC~ÒÏ?±*§ZÖ¯?×
(Am I the only one on crack at the moment?  Or is everyone seeing these 
Egyptian
characters too???)
Whups, never mind.  Just tried in IE4, and it shows up fine.  Guess ~Netscape~
is smoking crack instead...

Thoughts?  Well, the paint job's ~definatly~ not stock.  Wouldn't go so far as
to say repulsive, I've seen worse.  Doesn't really matter if it's a real 442 or
not, does it?  Not for $2200.  You find any running/driving car, and it's worth
$2K, providing it's reasonably clean.  May not ~book~ for that much, but unless
it's ~really~ trashed, it's worth $2k.  Plus, with the OAI hood, that adds a
really nice bonus.  And wing.  It looks good to me.  Test drive it, and check
all the basics first, of course, and determine ownership based on your own
personal abilities to correct any of the problems you may find.  Someone
mentioned "Stay away, it's likely to have electrical problems etc."  How many
used cars ~won't~???  I look at the hcar, and I don't see any major twisting in
the front clip area.  Bumper looks straight, and the grillwork and headlight
trimwork looks fairly straight, too.  I see SSIIs and all the 442 emblems.  
Even
as a fake, it still looks great to me.  Check the vin # and engine ID before 
you
decide anything, though.  That may be a deciding factor for you, too. 

Although, who here can argue against owning a 70 Cutlass???  (I'm
listening.....  Okay, time's up, I didn't hear anyone!)  And if it just happens
to have all the cool 442 toys, where's the problem?  If it runs and drives
halfway well, I'd say it's worth $2500 even as a Cutlass.  If it ~is~ real, 
then
it's gonna be worth much more than that.  But we all know you're not in it for
the $$$ value.  You want to drive a cool car.  So the stripes aren't correct. 
Big deal.  That's the only problem I see in the car, from the picture.  My GS
was ~much~ worse than that, was really a Skylark, and the bank was still ready
to give me $5500 for it.  I paid $1500.  $500 more, and it doesn't look any
better than the "442" shown here...  For what it's worth.  If I had the $$$ and
the need for a car, I'd buy it.  
- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 00:57:03 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: New Motor, HOT TEMPS

Just to be sure, I have to ask about temperatures.  My new 455 ran good in
the city (190) when I put it in.  However, as soon as speed went over 50 mph
constant for two to three minutes, the temp rose to over 200.  I solved the
heat problem now and runs 190 or so on the Highway, which is great.
HOWEVER, it did a few times (first few days) climb to over 200, once to 230,
at which point I shut it down.  The motor now has 500 miles, and all this
happened before.  Could this high-temp screwed something up.  It was a real
pain cause I could not go anywhere over 50 mph.  I installed the temp gauge
when I had my 307 and it always ran at about 210, according to the gauge.
It is a equinos gauge, manual temp sensor installed in the intake manifold.
I also got the light hooked up, but it never turned on.  The thermostat is
180 Hi-Flo.  The days that this happened on were vary hot.  I love my
Regency.  Propane makes that 307 run great and cool, 200-4r and 2.56 gears
give me ~20-22 MPG on highway (propane more then 1/2 cheaper then gas here,
so that is like 45 MPG on gas dollar wise), little 307 makes no power with
this propane set-up which keeps me out of trouble (I.e. no stunting tickets
like in my '81 455 Delta), it is convertible, always starts, never ever
hesitates or stalls, don't have to wait till its warm to go (here in Calgary
temps get to -40 C), has 170,000 miles or so and runs like new.  Maintenance
is 1/2 of the gas brother.  Plugs every, oh, 10 years, oil every 7500 miles,
etc...  Currently has 11,000 miles on oil (I know, but have no time) and is
only 1/2 quart down.  75 mph cruise speeds are comfortable and economical.
Here in Canada, 455 '81 Delta costs me $50 to fill with supreeme, '81
Regancy cost $13-$15 depending on temp AND lasts longer.  Long live this car
(and it will).  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 00:37:10 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: metal in oil, ASAP HELP

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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>What is your oil pressure at? What are your cold/hot driving oil =
pressure
>#'s at? What are your clearances at? The mains should be .0020" - =
.0025".
>Any tighter and you will get main bearing wear. This is from =
Mondello/Dick
>Miller and other engine builders specs....
>Pettrix@prodigy.net


Yes, those were the main clearance specs.  I did use plastigauge when I =
assembled the motor, however it was also checked prior to assembly.  =
Block was fully prepped, crank ground, rods redone, etc..  I don't see =
what I could have done wrong.  Everything went in nice, I checked for =
endplay, it was good from what I remember.  Motor runs good, exhaust is =
clean, never stalls or hesitates.  There is no noise except a little =
from the exhaust manifold leak (long story, will get to it).  It is not =
loud so I should be able to hear anything else.  If it was bearing =
going, what kind of noise would it make.  I do believe that it is the =
chrome dipstick because some of these chunks are large and shiny, and =
unless they are picked up by the dipstick, I don't see how they could =
float in the oil and be picked up by the dipstick every time.  And like =
I said, even running my finger over it (outside part, which is the same =
as the part in the motor) it leaves tons of shavings.  I think that the =
motor could have a vacuum leak at the intake because the vacuum gauge =
oscillates tons (did from start).  I also think that the metal gasket =
did not seal that well (I used a bit of silicon).  I have a new intake, =
so the old one goes anyway.  Could this cause anything to go wrong like =
that.  Once (only once and only problem I had) at WOT the car cut out at =
about 3000 rpm for a second and then picked up again.  It was like I =
just let off the gas.  I had this happen to me on the 307 once and it =
was a vacuum hose burned through on the hot manifold making a leak.  =
When I do get it back, I will keep an eye out for a few days and see =
what happens.  In the mean time, I will go there ASAP and change the =
oil/filter.  If a piston ring was damaged, what symptoms would I get.  =
Can the rings break or something.  I once had the motor at 230 deg. =
before I shut it down.  It ran consistent 190 deg. in city but as soon =
as I went faster, it would go to 210 and higher till I slowed down or =
just stopped.  This is hot but should not have done anything bad.  The =
hot problem has been solved now. =20

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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<BODY>
<DIV>&gt;What is your oil pressure at? What are your cold/hot driving =
oil=20
pressure<BR>&gt;#'s at? What are your clearances at? The mains should be =

.0020&quot; - .0025&quot;.<BR>&gt;Any tighter and you will get main =
bearing=20
wear. This is from Mondello/Dick<BR>&gt;Miller and other engine builders =

specs....<BR>&gt;<A=20
href=3D"mailto:Pettrix@prodigy.net">Pettrix@prodigy.net</A><BR></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Yes, those were the main clearance specs.&nbsp; I did use =
plastigauge when=20
I assembled the motor, however it was also checked prior to =
assembly.&nbsp;=20
Block was fully prepped, crank ground, rods redone, etc..&nbsp; I don't =
see what=20
I could have done wrong.&nbsp; Everything went in nice, I checked for =
endplay,=20
it was good from what I remember.&nbsp; Motor runs good, exhaust is =
clean, never=20
stalls or hesitates.&nbsp; There is no noise except a little from the =
exhaust=20
manifold leak (long story, will get to it).&nbsp; It is not loud so I =
should be=20
able to hear anything else.&nbsp; If it was bearing going, what kind of =
noise=20
would it make.&nbsp; I do believe that it is the chrome dipstick because =
some of=20
these chunks are large and shiny, and unless they are picked up by the =
dipstick,=20
I don't see how they could float in the oil and be picked up by the =
dipstick=20
every time.&nbsp; And like I said, even running my finger over it =
(outside part,=20
which is the same as the part in the motor) it leaves tons of =
shavings.&nbsp; I=20
think that the motor could have a vacuum leak at the intake because the =
vacuum=20
gauge oscillates tons (did from start).&nbsp; I also think that the =
metal gasket=20
did not seal that well (I used a bit of silicon).&nbsp; I have a new =
intake, so=20
the old one goes anyway.&nbsp; Could this cause anything to go wrong =
like=20
that.&nbsp; Once (only once and only problem I had) at WOT the car cut =
out at=20
about 3000 rpm for a second and then picked up again.&nbsp; It was like =
I just=20
let off the gas.&nbsp; I had this happen to me on the 307 once and it =
was a=20
vacuum hose burned through on the hot manifold making a leak.&nbsp; When =
I do=20
get it back, I will keep an eye out for a few days and see what =
happens.&nbsp;=20
In the mean time, I will go there ASAP and change the oil/filter.&nbsp; =
If a=20
piston ring was damaged, what symptoms would I get.&nbsp; Can the rings =
break or=20
something<STRONG>.&nbsp; I once had the motor at 230 deg. before I shut =
it=20
down</STRONG>.&nbsp; It ran consistent 190 deg. in city but as soon as I =
went=20
faster, it would go to 210 and higher till I slowed down or just =
stopped.&nbsp;=20
This is hot but should not have done anything bad.&nbsp; The hot problem =
has=20
been solved now.&nbsp; </DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 06:49:22 -0500
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: re. wmachine,there are real racers here

I have a 68 442 post that is street and strip.  runs 11.45 at 116mph ,
1.60 60 ft on mickey thompson  et streets, and thats just raw  Olds
power   455 with 4.11 gears 3500 J. W. stall converter.  run it on the
street here in florida with no problems and made it threw 3 rounds at
the sears craftsman et finales at rockingham NC . last week

  Butch  68  442  post

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 07:27:53 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: 403 vs 307 HO

- -----Original Message-----
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com <RCKTPWR@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 4:21 AM
Subject: 403 vs 307 HO


>Got my 86 442 home from MI the other day.  My question is, what's the dif
>between an 86 180 HP 307 vs a 79 185 HP 403?  

About 100 ft lbs of torque.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 07:46:00 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Found build sheet...

I take mine to the copier and make a dupe for reference and show and tell.
I put the original between two sheets of plastic such that a student might
use for an essay cover.  I found some that have a one way in slot and holes
for a ring binder notebook.  And there they reside, visible, but not in any
peril.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 08:00:38 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Another Olds overheating-need h*lp

   As a rule, if your gauge creeps up and up at a cruise, it
indicatesinadequate flow through the radiator.  If this is the case, then,
if your timing is not retarded, a cleaning is indicated.  If the temp spikes
in stop and go situations, you could have a failed T-Stat, a loose belt
underdriving the pump, low coolant level, weak rad cap, collapsing rad
hoses, for just a few things to look at.  It's hard to diagnose long
distance, but there's a few places to look.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 08:04:29 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: metal in oil, ASAP HELP

Igor, I believe that you have metal from the break in period of the car and
that you will still have a little there up to 1000 or more, Relax It takes
time to break the motor in. Once it done "mating" every thing and all load
bearing surfaces together will settle down. Now be aware and listen for any
engine noises (that would be bad with this), but if you have none then drive
and enjoy!!!! I am the same way when I put a motor together till break in is
complete. Some guys I know drop them in and break the cam in and give it hell
after an hour or so..... I wait till around 500 miles or so allows rings to
seat bearings to mate and for with the other surfaces and then I give it hell.
Just my 2 cents. Chris

CHRIS SOMMERVILLE
69 442SC
70 442HC
70 W31

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 08:16:06 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: buying car

GUYS AND GALLS, give him a break, If he likes the car and it is fairly
straight for the price he could part it out and make his money back. And
remember that all of our cars stared out as "JUNK OR FAKES" in some ones eyes.
It is up to us to put them back into the beautiful cars that we have now. As
long as it is solid and in decent shape it is not a bad deal. Not everyone can
afford a $21,000 concourse restored W30 from Duffy's. That car could have
started out as this one. Advice is good but do not belittle a man for wanting
to own a dream. just my 2 cents. Chris

CHRIS SOMMERVILLE
69 442SC
70 442HC
70 W31

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 08:34:44 -0500
From: Boccadifuoco_Roy_A@bns.att.com
Subject: Wheels & Window Stickers

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I'm the proud original owner of a black 1986 RWD Cutlass Salon with
chrome Super Stock III rims.  I replaced the original SSIII which had
black inserts and which were 14X6, with new 15X7 Super Stock III with
gold inserts for a 442.  I then painted the gold inserts black and added=

the red stripe that came with the 83-84 Hurst rims.  What I'm trying to
do is fit a 295/50R15 in the back.  I know I'll need to go to an 8 inch
rim and that's ok because I found a guy out in Sandy, Oregon that
reproduces classic wheels.  He can make them up in 7,8, or 10 inch
rims-so I'll still have the Hurst/442 look since the wheel is a 2 part
wheel.  I've seen @ least 3 G-Body Buick Grand Nationals with
295/50R15's in the back and they really look tough!  I currently have
255/60R15's in the back.  I tried going to 275/60R15's but they rubbed
on the inner frame and they were too tall for my liking.  The
295/50R15's are very close in height to the 255/60R15 but are over 1.5
inches wider which is what I like.  My problem is that I need to tell
this guy building my rims how much backspace in order to build the wheel=

and if I tell him something incorrectly especially where the tire is now=

sticking out beyond the wheel well then I'm stuck with them and I don't
want to go out past the wheel well.  I'd like to be as close to the
outer edge of the wheel well without it becoming a low-rider look.  The
look I'm after is a drag strip look with skinnier tires up
front-216/65R15's to be exact.  Can anyone out there with a G Body
Cutlass 81-87 who has ever put 295/50R15s in the rear answer my question=

as far as backspacing and share what if any modifications were needed.
I'm also concerned about the inner lip on the rear of the wheel wells.
Is there a problem with rubbing?     =20

My next question is does anyone know of someone or company that
reproduces window stickers for the G Body Cutlass' 81-87?  I have the
original bill of sale listing every option on the car, back in '86 they
didn't have these convience option groups they do today, every option
was listed on the invoice.  I looked into this back in '93 when I first
showed my car in the very first SE Regional Meet in Tanglewood Park,
Winston Salem, NC.  I took first in my class that day even without the
window sticker-but it would have been nice to have it.  The following
year in Atlanta I tried again to find someone to reproduce a window
sticker for the B.O.P. show and I came in 2nd to a Buick GNX-Chrome show=

under the hood.  Since then I've not really shown the car and gave up
and finding someone who can reproduce a G Body window sticker.  Everyone=

I talked to said they stopped @ 72 model and that the '86 style was
different and too new @ the time.  I'm hoping that now that 4-5 years
have past that the 81-87 G Body's are becoming popular enough to show
and maybe someone out there can help me out with this.  I know I'm not
the only one who would want a window sticker for their G Body Baby!  I
also need a reproduction trunk lid decal listing all of my options for
my car.  As some of you may know, the trunk decal is where GM listed the=

options for '86.  =20

Any help with these would greatly be appreciated!  Love my Olds!  Dad
had a '66 98 Regency LS in which I learned how to drive back in '79.
Thanks again and happy Oldsmobiling!

Sincerely,

Roy Boccadifuoco
Boccadifuoco@att.com



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 08:55:08 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: parting W31 body and chassis parts

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Well list I am parting out the car and anyone that wants something let me know
by e-mail or give me a call. Wheels and rear end have been sold. I am located
in Fayetteville NC 910 487-1540home, 910 396-5420 work, Thanks Chris

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1589
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