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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1536


oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, October 7 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1536



RE: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)
Fw: '67 heads on '68-newer block
Engine missing after driving for 30 min
Engine missing after 30 minutes
Re: G-Body Tail Light Questions:
Re: G-Body Header Panel Questions:
Re:G-Body Header Panel Questions:
Re:G-Body Header Panel Questions:
Re:  Engine Rebuild
RE: F-41 Cutlass
Re: Engine Rebuild
Re: Engine Rebuild
Re: A4 intake was: '84 & earlier heads, will they fit? (87 olds)
Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)
Re: Engine Rebuild
Re: Re:G-Body Header Panel Questions:
Re: G-Body Header Panel Questions:
RE: A4 intake was: '84 & earlier heads, will they fit? (87 olds)
RE: G-Body Header Panel Questions:
Re: Wax
F*ord joke -
RE: Stolen
RE: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)
RE: Engine missing after driving for 30 min
Re: Snake oils, just plain stay away (long)!
TH-200-C
Re: upholstery
Re: Engine missing after driving for 30 min
BAD Olds Owners (Long)
Re: Buying privately through the mail
64 Oldsmobile Starfire - brake booster
Re: Engine missing after driving for 30 min
Re: BAD Olds Owners (Long)
Re: 64 Oldsmobile Starfire - brake booster
2.14
RE: BAD Olds Owners (Long)
RE: TH-200-C
RE: F*ord joke -
Delta for sale
Re: Engine missing after driving for 30 min
Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)
Re: BAD Olds Owners (Long)
Re: Aluminum Hoods
Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)
69 Cutlass grill color

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 01:57:11 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: RE: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)

I will do so tomorrow.  What do you mean, "changed ONE today"?  Does that
mean replace the fuel pump?

At 08:07 PM 10/6/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I entered the thread late, but have you checked the weep hole on the bottom
>side of the fuel pump arm housing? Changed one today for that very reason.
>Side + bottom of block and back covered with oil...
>
>----Regards,
>
>Gary J. Couse
>Couse Custom
>gjcouse@francomm.com
>
>1986 Custom Cutlass Brougham = "Quincy"
>
>
><>-----Original Message-----
><>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
><>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Andrew C. Green
><>Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 1998 9:54 AM
><>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
><>Subject: Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)
><>
><>
><>> A whole bunch of oil, all over the place, on the pan, filter,
><>> starter, EVERYWHERE.  So, we're leaking somewhere.
><>>
><>> I go to take the oil pan off.
><>
><>Ermm... this is not the followup you want to see, but did you
><>find the source of the leak? It's the oil pan? More commonly
><>it's something overhead like the rocker covers; after all, if
><>anything _above_ the oil pan is wet, the oil most likely came
><>from above it, not below it...
><>
><>-- Andy
><>
><>______________________________________________________
><>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
><>
>
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 00:16:05 -0700
From: "Mike Jones" <mike@gleep.com>
Subject: Fw: '67 heads on '68-newer block

 I know Olds utilized different CBA's (Cam Bank Angles) in their motors (45
 in earlier motors, 39 in '68-newer).
 I have a pair of C heads and an intake from a '67 442.  Would there be a
 problem putting said top-end on a later ('68+) big block?  I ask because
 I'm not quite sure which motors had which CBAs.  I think Toros had the 39
 deg. CBA with .921 lifters, and RWDs had 45 deg. CBAs with .842 lifters.
 The E-block 400 had .921 lifters I think.  They were big.

 Mike Jones
 '78 Delta (350/TH350)



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 02:21:51 -0600
From: "David Litke" <dlitke@bewellnet.com>
Subject: Engine missing after driving for 30 min

Hi all, I recently have been having some problems with my 72 Cutlass
supreme.  It has 119k and I have been having a problem with it missing when
I drive it for more than about 30 minutes.  I have replaced some vaccume
lines and that has helped but I thought that the problem could be due to a
vacume leak somewhere, but where would you get a vacume leak that gets
worse as the engine gets hotter.  If there was a leak in the manifold
wouldn't it be worse when the engine is cold and then get better when the
engine warms up?  I have repalced the coil and fuel pump.  Neither fixed
the problem.  As a last resort I took the carb off and replaced the
accelerator pump because it had been giving me trouble every since i got
the car.  Unfortunately I did not have the 5 hours to totally rebuild the
carb.  Of course me being in a hurry somehow I messed up the mechanism that
opens up the other 2 barrels so now when I get into the other 2 barrels the
engines slows down.  I think that the vacume mechanism that opens the two
upper valves is not opening does anyone have any idea what the problem
might be?  The car has been excellent until lately.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 02:27:44 -0600
From: "David Litke" <dlitke@bewellnet.com>
Subject: Engine missing after 30 minutes

Hi again.  On that last post I forgot to mention that I put a heat guage in
when I first got the car and the missing and loss of power does not have
anything to do with heat or oil pressure because both are normal.  Thanks
again for any help.  This is my daily driver for the time being.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 05:34:39 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: G-Body Tail Light Questions:

> 1. Did the 79 and/or 80 Cutlass have a lit Rocket Emblem in them?

Not to my knowledge.  Should have been a strip down the middle.  78 was
the only one to have the rocket.

>
> 2. Was the red reflector in the reverse lights seen in all 1981-1983
> versions until 1984?  Did it see action any other time?

84/85 did not have the red reflector.  86-88 had a red stripe around the
perimeter just inside the chrome edge.
>
> 3. What is the deal with the Grey Rocket emblems in certian tail lights,
> and red in others?  Coinicidence, or limited to certain models?

84/85 used the same tail lights.  The emblem was chrome plastic with
black rocket.  In 86-88, they used a chrome emblem/rocket on a red
background.  The taillights were still available last I checked about
two months ago.

>
> 4. Was the "antique" Olds emblem ever used in the tail lens?

Not on the Cutlass.  MAYBE on the Deltas/98s, but I'm not sure about
that one.

>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 05:38:36 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: G-Body Header Panel Questions:

> 1. What emblems were used on the hood?  And were they year specific?
> I know my 87 has an "antique" logo, with a Rocket in the center of the
> header.

Not sure on the specific year they went to that ornament, but I believe
it was around 82.  The rest of the years had that ornament.  The 87/88
was the only years to have the rocket in the middle of the grilles.

>
> 2. "Black-out" trim - Was that an option on all models?  Was it year
> specific?

Hurst Olds only as far as G-body.  And it was only PARTIAL around the
windshield area.

>
> 3. When are the Amber and Clear style parking lens used?  Year Specific?

Calais/Salon used amber.  Supremes used clear.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 07:39:48 -0400
From: "john burris" <jburris1@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re:G-Body Header Panel Questions:

BTW, does anyone have a picture of this hood ornament? My colors have long 
since
faded with the passage of time and space. I would like to repaint it, but I'd 
be
guessing about what goes where.


>1. What emblems were used on the hood?  And were they year specific?
>I know my 87 has an "antique" logo, with a Rocket in the center of the
>header.
>
>2. "Black-out" trim - Was that an option on all models?  Was it year
>specific?
>
>3. When are the Amber and Clear style parking lens used?  Year Specific?
>--
>                - Jerry Christopher -
>IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
>       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI
>
>
>
>
>


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 07:56:16 -0400
From: "john burris" <jburris1@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re:G-Body Header Panel Questions:

I have a 87 Supreme Brhgm w/ composites. I need both the badge between the
lights, and the hood ornament colors.

At Wed, 07 Oct 1998 07:39:48 -0400, you wrote:
>
>BTW, does anyone have a picture of this hood ornament? My colors have long
since faded with the passage of time and space. I would like to repaint it, but
I'd be guessing about what goes where. > > >>1. What emblems were used on the
hood?  And were they year specific? >>I know my 87 has an "antique" logo, with 
a
Rocket in the center of the >>header. >> >>2. "Black-out" trim - Was that an
option on all models?  Was it year >>specific? >> >>3. When are the Amber and
Clear style parking lens used?  Year Specific? >>-- >>                - Jerry
Christopher - >>IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford >>
HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI >> >> >> >> >> > >
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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account today! >http://webmail.bellsouth.net
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> > >


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 07:31:40 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re:  Engine Rebuild

On your 403 in the T/A, be aware the Performer RPM intake will require
hood scoop mods, to the tune of mounting it to the hood.  It will be too
high.  Just a FYI, if you are trying to keep sleeper originality, or be
able to return to stock, this may pose a problem.

Contact Edelbrock for details.


>Then I will use the Edelbrock Performer RPM cam and intake.
>The block will be a stock rebuild, using new parts if needed (like
>pistons, con rods).

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM Real Pontiac 400!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 07:38:15 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: F-41 Cutlass

Probably something taken from a FE3 suspension Delta 88 or Cutlass
Ciera.  It is a nice emblem...Delta 88 and 98 used to advertise it.  I
have seen F41 badges on something some years ago.

The FE3 was the top suspension option.  The F41 became the FE2, the FE1
being stock.  FE3 was the 442 suspension I believe.  In my 80 Turbo T/A,
F41 is standard on T/A and WS6 is top option.  Sometimes referred to a
Y99.

They are stickly option codes and can vary from carline to carline.  My
91 Bonneville comes standard with FE2, and FE3 is the SSE suspension.
Just slightly bigger bars and stiffer springs.  Shocks are specific to
all cars, if you lookup a shock on a 442 and compare to a Supreme, you
will find a different GM part number, but aftermarket they are the same.

For the 442/GN/Monte SS they could only tweak spring rates and shock
rates.  Probably why the 442 was touted as being the best handling of
the 3.  I am sure some would argue, but that was one magazines opinion.
Not having driven all three on a skidpad, I cannot say...Still to close
to tell.

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 08:42:01 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild

Scott, I have done a similar set of upgrades to my Olds. I have a 33ci. with
10.25 pistons. I have installed the complete Performer RPM kit...cam, lifters,
valvesprings, intake, and Carburetor. I am installing a TH-350 this
morning(wish me luck!). It has been modified from stock by adding a heavy duty
"sprag"(I think thats the name), full manual valve body(I always wanted one!),
heavy duty clutches and bands...2400rpm stall. I am gonna tackle the rear end
next...I will be changing to 3.90:1 rearend gears with a locking diff. I can
reccomend the Edelbrock RPM kit...I am having SERIOUS results. I cannot
reccomend the rest of the drivetrain mods , as they are taylored to the fact
that I will not be driving this car on a regular basis...weekends only. I have
been revving the motor to about 6700rpm without valve float or noticable
strain. I have also run 2 1/2 in dual exhaust (flowmaster 3 chambers), and am
always getting told that the car sounds AWESOME at gas stations and
Sonic...haha  With the JetAway tranny(2 speed P.O.S....peice o' sh*t) and
3.23:1 one legger rearendI have run a best of 13.87 1/4.....

Collyn Eastham
Dallas, Tx.
'65 Olds HT

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 08:44:40 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild

several people make gear drives for Olds v-8's....Milodon...298.99....Pete
Jackson...169.99
both prices from Jegs catolouge

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 07:43:19 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: A4 intake was: '84 & earlier heads, will they fit? (87 olds)

Sorry, I stand corrected, in 1985 I have only seen 7A heads, no 5A's on
"Y", just "9" engine code.  1985 was a gray year for the head
changeover.  But most "Y" were 7A's.  All "9" to my knowledge were 5A.

There are rumered to be some, but I have never seen nor heard of a 5A
headed "Y" in 1985.

There were a lot of differences in the "Y" and "9" engines starting in
1985, pistons got full floating wrist pins, new high swirl port heads,
tubular steel exhaust manifolds (for 7A heads, G-Body Chassis, possibly
only Olds), and the roller cam.  Differences on the cam gear because of
the roller cam button.  The "9" engine is nearly identical to all the
pictures/drawings in my 1976 Olds service manual, they used a lot of the
same pictures.  The "Y" engine had a lot going for it, but the lack of
good cam profiles and gearing always made it play second best.  The "Y"
was rated at 140 hp in 1985, and that was pretty sad for a Rocket V8.
Torque was a respectable 255 lbs ft.  Consider a 3.1L Ch@vy V6 has 140
hp, but only 180 lbs ft torque.  The 350 was just so much better, 170 hp
and 310 lbs ft.  (well, the 455......)

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800


>All 84 and older 307, 350 and 403's use the same port size for the
>> intake.
>>
>> 85 and up used a size more like the 260 did.  (READ: TINY!).
>
>
>Correction:  You mean 86 and up.  I can show you two matching #s 85 442s
>that have the "bigger" ports and 5A heads.  It's the same engine used in
>the 84 H/O from carb to pan.  Speaking of carbs, my black 442, which I
>ordered new so I KNOW it wasn't swapped, came with a "5" restamped over
>the "4" on the carb # for the year.  Didn't even realize this until I
>was hand cleaning the engine one day in '93.   The things GM did to save
>a buck...
>
>Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 07:46:39 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)

I can say from experience, I swapped a crank on my 70 455 in my 80 Turbo
Trans AM, pull the motor.  Just bite the bullet and pull it.  I got my
self in where I could not pull it and had to fight it, and regretted it.
 Ever try to lift a 80+ lbs crank into the saddles and NOT screw it up?
It ain't easy!  I broke 1 main bolt for unknown reasons, and later it
broke again while it was running.  (Caused no problems thankfully!!)
Not worth it, just pull it.  I pulled my 455 in 45 min alone.  It is not
so bad.  Pontiacs are so nice to work on.....<g>

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 08:07:35 -0500
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild

- -----Original Message-----
From: Igor T. '81 455DRB <igor455@home.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, October 07, 1998 1:09 AM
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild


>
>>First get rid of my #4a heads and go with a set of #5 heads,
>>casting #397742.
>
>I think that this is a great idea.  However, I was just wondering if it
>would be to your advantage to use the #4a's bigger intake valves.  Hmm,
what
>do you think.  I think that those 2" valves could be cut into the 403s
>heads.  Igor.


Large valves can be installed in the small block heads. My number 5s were
machined for 2.072" intake and 1.710' Ex. With this combo you can't put
hardened seats in the heads but with stainless steel valves you shouldn't
need them (info from FAQ). The largest ex. valves you can use with 2.072
int. and still put in the hardened seats is 1.68".
As far as ripping out the RPM springs is concerned, I think that the problem
is the shallow spring seats on the #5 heads. Edelbrock's springs are
designed for the more common deeper seats and won't install to the correct
height with the springs you get with the kit. In fact it takes big arms to
get them installed at all. The height will end up .090" too short. My
machine shop almost sent me home with my heads set up like this until I
checked the dimension myself. Even then they tried to tell me it wouldn't be
a problem.
The best solution is to machine the spring seats .090" deeper to get the
correct installed height and also the correct preload on the springs. I'm
sure you would bend valves, pushrods etc. if you don't get them right.
Another solution I guess would be to use longer than stock valves (Mondello
sells them), but I'm not sure what other problems they would cause.
With a 403, the spring seats should be at the depth that matches the
Edelbrock package. I know they are for 350 heads, #6 and above.
Hope this helps.
===================================================
Mick Gillespie
1969 Cutlass S Conv.
1980 Toronado Brougham
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
mgillespie@sprynet.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 08:09:28 -0500
From: "Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
Subject: Re: Re:G-Body Header Panel Questions:

Hi John,

>I have a 87 Supreme Brhgm w/ composites. I need both the badge between the
lights, and the hood >ornament colors.


The badge between the lights is still available from the dealer... For about
$13.

My hood ornament (90th Anniversary style), with the Oldsmobile in a "banner"
across a shield like ornament... well it has a red material in the circular
area above and below the banner. Of course, on most of the cars that I've
seen, all or most of these "jewels" have fallen out. :(

- -Mark Tupper     1987 442    (OCA 30666)
 mtupper@palacenet.net     http://cyberglyphs.com/442/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 08:22:49 -0500
From: "Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
Subject: Re: G-Body Header Panel Questions:

> 1. What emblems were used on the hood?  And were they year specific?
> I know my 87 has an "antique" logo, with a Rocket in the center of the
> header.


I know on my '84 Calais, that it had specific "Calais" hood ornament... Sort
of shield shape (for lack of a better word) with black background and Calais
written in script on it... Jason should know this one. :)

- -Mark Tupper     1987 442    (OCA 30666)
 mtupper@palacenet.net     http://cyberglyphs.com/442/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 09:27:45 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: A4 intake was: '84 & earlier heads, will they fit? (87 olds)

On Wednesday, October 07, 1998 8:43 AM, Martin Thomas-WLTM07
[SMTP:Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com] wrote:
>
> same pictures.  The "Y" engine had a lot going for it, but the lack of
> good cam profiles and gearing always made it play second best.  The "Y"
> was rated at 140 hp in 1985, and that was pretty sad for a Rocket V8.
> Torque was a respectable 255 lbs ft.  Consider a 3.1L Ch@vy V6 has 140

You said it right there!  My motor only has 150 HP and all these Integras and
Accords might be able to match the horsepower amount, but they have literally
half the torque at 5 times the RPM as I have!  You can't beat 250 lb-ft @ 1600
RPM!

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 09:35:15 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: G-Body Header Panel Questions:

On Wednesday, October 07, 1998 12:32 AM, Jerry Christopher
[SMTP:ithefunki@cchat.com] wrote: > 1. What emblems were used on the hood?  And
were they year specific? > I know my 87 has an "antique" logo, with a Rocket in
the center of the > header.

Yeah, as Mark said, I do know the shield emblem quite well.  I can't think of a
better name for it so I'll run with his...  :-)

> 3. When are the Amber and Clear style parking lens used?  Year Specific?

Back in 1984 anyway, the "regular" Supremes got the clear parking lenses and 
the
Calais and H/O had the amber.  IMHO, the ONLY way to go is amber!  I would
assume they continued this way with the later Cutlasses, with the Salon and 442
getting the ambers.  Maybe they decided that the amber did in fact look better
and just put them on all cars!  Not to worry, though, they are still
available...$20.12 per side from GM, P/N: 22511038/9.

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 06:44:14 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Wax

> Hmmm.... (running to the basement to check)... OK, it's a
> polish. Reading the label, it says they combined Color Back
> finish restorer (the stuff you must have used) with a polish.

Just to be sure, now would be a great time to paste-wax the car.
Since you've buffed it, you'll be amazed at how much easier it
is to polish off the dried wax; it just _glides_ off the paint.
That burgundy/maroon/deep-red shade of paint oxidizes like crazy
(any '73 owners want to agree with me? I thought so! :-) and if
you don't have a definite wax coating on it it'll be fading in
three weeks. Seen it happen...

- -- Andy

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Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 09:17:12 -0400
From: "Worthington, David L" <david_worthington@reyrey.com>
Subject: F*ord joke -

> Henry Ford dies and goes to heaven . at the gates, the angel tells Ford,
> "Well you've been such a good guy and your invention, the car, changed the
> world. as a reward, you can hang out with anyone you want in heaven."
> So, Henry Ford thinks about it and says, "I wanna hang with Adam, the
> first
> man."
> So, the guy at the gate points Adam out to Ford.
> When Ford gets to Adam, Ford asks, "Hey aren't you the inventor of the
> woman?"
> Adam says yes.
>  "Well," says Ford, " You have some major design flaws in your invention:
> 1. There's too much front end protrusion.
> 2. It chatters at high speeds.
> 3. The rear end wobbles too much.
> 4. And the intake is placed too close to the exhaust."
>
>  "Hmmm.....", says Adam,"Hold on."
> So Adam goes to the celestial super computer, types in a few keystrokes,
> and
> waits for the result. The computer prints out a clip of paper and reads
> it.
> He then says to Henry Ford," It may be that my invention is flawed, but
> according to the stellar computer, more men are riding my invention than
> yours."
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 09:05:04 -0400
From: "Worthington, David L" <david_worthington@reyrey.com>
Subject: RE: Stolen

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 11:55:13 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: STOLEN

It was my intake that was stolen.  I had gotten the matched AFB's from my
fathers old 53 Stude B/Gas car.  They were on spacers for the carb linkage
to clear because they came off an early car with push-type linkage on the
bottom half of the throttle lever.   The AFB's were early model ones with
the 4 1/4" (roughly) air cleaner ring.  The milled air cleaner was done by a
friend with a machine shop.  It would fit nothing but this setup.   My house
is one of over two dozen that was broken into.  They even took the toolbox
my dad gave me around age six. Every few years I would clean it up and paint
it.  The sentimental value of it and the carbs alone is killing me. He
taught me enough to build engines and so on from his early years turning
wrenches at a dealership.

Whenever I cant get something apart and start bitching, he used to say:
   "You know, God didnt put that car together"


I just priced the setup from Jegs and it's around $1170 to recreate it.
Damn!

The bastards may be headed for anywhere from Kentucky to the Carolinas.  I
would pay good money to have their heads delivered to me on a platter. look
for a red plymouth laser with NC tags and a dark colored used-up chevy van.

I'm asking you guys to help me.  The stuff is a connection to my father that
cannot be replaced.

Please check swap meets and shows if you would.  If you think you may know
anything about it, let me know, and notify the police.  I can verify every
detail of both items.






In a message dated 98-10-05 17:50:44 EDT, you write:



<< Will whoever stole it actuallly ever be able to firgure out that it's a
2x4
intake for an OLDS?! >>

As Karl is a ways west of you, his extreme deviousness is almost useless.

But thought the orig. post said summat about parts suspected to be heading
for
the Virginias.

So does the poster have a suspect in mind?

Bet it was the same schmuck that vamoosed with Heavy Metal I, but with more
sophisticated tastes now.

Karl saw a dual quad intake in a modified F-85 2dr coupe this year.
Sweeeeeet.

Very sorry for your loss.

SOM

&KA
ICQ # 20414415

- ------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 10:02:34 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)

<>-----Original Message-----<>
<>I will do so tomorrow.  What do you mean, "changed ONE today"?  Does that
<>mean replace the fuel pump?

<A>
Yes, changed the fuel pump.
While I was messing around I also put in Polygraphite bushings and Eibach
Pro-Kit springs all around. Also a change to 3.08 rears from 2.29? (I
think). Should be an interesting change in ride stature and propulsion. I
would have gone higher in the rear but 3.08 is the limit oh the stock 86
Cutlass rear housing.
I've still have a need for a T-Reg*l or M*nty-SS possi rear. seem to be hard
to come by here in mid NY state. Yes, I check the other lists but no one
want's to cough one up for Quincy. Really would like a 3.43 in there...

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
gjcouse@francomm.com
  
1986 Custom Cutlass Brougham = "Quincy"








<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Brian Ammons
<>Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 1998 2:57 AM
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<>Subject: RE: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)
<>
<>
<>
<>At 08:07 PM 10/6/98 -0400, you wrote:
<>>I entered the thread late, but have you checked the weep hole on
<>the bottom
<>>side of the fuel pump arm housing? Changed one today for that
<>very reason.
<>>Side + bottom of block and back covered with oil...
<>>
<>>----Regards,
<>>
<>>Gary J. Couse
<>>Couse Custom
<>>gjcouse@francomm.com
<>>
<>>1986 Custom Cutlass Brougham = "Quincy"
<>>
<>>
<>><>-----Original Message-----
<>><>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>><>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Andrew C. Green
<>><>Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 1998 9:54 AM
<>><>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<>><>Subject: Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)
<>><>
<>><>
<>><>> A whole bunch of oil, all over the place, on the pan, filter,
<>><>> starter, EVERYWHERE.  So, we're leaking somewhere.
<>><>>
<>><>> I go to take the oil pan off.
<>><>
<>><>Ermm... this is not the followup you want to see, but did you
<>><>find the source of the leak? It's the oil pan? More commonly
<>><>it's something overhead like the rocker covers; after all, if
<>><>anything _above_ the oil pan is wet, the oil most likely came
<>><>from above it, not below it...
<>><>
<>><>-- Andy
<>><>
<>><>______________________________________________________
<>><>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
<>><>
<>>
<>-------------------------------------------------------------
<> Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
<> MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
<> 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
<> Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
<> 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
<>	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
<> 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938
<>-------------------------------------------------------------
<>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 10:20:15 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Engine missing after driving for 30 min

<Snip>

<>I drive it for more than about 30 minutes.  I have replaced some vacuum
lines and that has helped but I thought that the problem could be due to a
vacuum leak somewhere, but where would you get a vacuum leak that gets
worse as the engine gets hotter.  If there was a leak in the manifold
wouldn't it be worse when the engine is cold and then get better when the
engine warms up?<>

<Q>

Are all your intake bolts threaded correctly and torqued to specs. I could
see that if a bolt were loose that the 30 minutes of time would be just
right to heat the manifold. As the manifold swells from heat a section with
a loose/miss-threaded bolt would possibly open a gap in the gasket area
allowing air in and overall vacuum to drop. Have a vacuum gauge on board to
monitor total vacuum as the block heats up?

Just a $.02 thought.

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
gjcouse@francomm.com
  
1986 Custom Cutlass Brougham = "Quincy"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 10:25:36 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Snake oils, just plain stay away (long)!

I noticed in this month's Drag Racing Magazine that they did an in depth
story on the innards of a Top Fuel Dragster engine. The builder mentioned
that he uses Prolong in the crankcase. I don't subscribe to the aftermarket
stuff like these additives (I change my oil). BUT, I do tend to lend some
credence to an additive that is used in a 6,000 HP engine. To quote the
Magazine, it's a grenade with a 4.5 second fuse.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 10:27:53 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: TH-200-C

Is the TH 200-C (METRIC) worth anything more than to hold down scrap sheet
metal on the scrap pile?
Most catalogs don't even list after market products for it.

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
gjcouse@francomm.com
  
'86 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS = "Quincy"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 10:28:26 -0400
From: "James E. Brady III" <James.E.Brady.1@gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: upholstery

>On Mon, 5 Oct 1998, Bruce Camilli wrote:
>> Does anyone have any suggestions on replacing stock upholstery for a
>> front bench seat for a 70 Olds Delta 88??? Is there companies selling
>> reproduction kits??? Your suggestions are greatly appeciated

How high does the quality have to be?  I ask this because J.C. Whitney
sells them for about $100 and they are of resonable quality.  If this is a
show piece try www.usapartssupply.com.  They should have what you need.
You can download a catalog too.  Good Luck and if you need any help finding
a supplier I'm sure I can help.

Jim Brady

1973 Delta 88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 07:35:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Re: Engine missing after driving for 30 min

You might want to just check that the vacumn switch which is supposed to
direct either carb or full manifold vacumn to the the vacumn advance is
working and/or connected correctly.  I had problems with mine until I
relized that someone had put in a F*ord unit on which the ports are
numbered differently than the GM type.  Once I got them in the right place
it worked fine.  On other cars I have had vacumn switch problems if the
coolant level is low, I always attributed this to the fact that they were
not sitting in the water.

 >Hi all, I recently have been having some problems with my 72 Cutlass
>supreme.  It has 119k and I have been having a problem with it missing when
>I drive it for more than about 30 minutes.  I have replaced some vaccume
>lines and that has helped but I thought that the problem could be due to a
>vacume leak somewhere, but where would you get a vacume leak that gets
>worse as the engine gets hotter.  If there was a leak in the manifold
>wouldn't it be worse when the engine is cold and then get better when the
>engine warms up?  I have repalced the coil and fuel pump.  Neither fixed
>the problem.  As a last resort I took the carb off and replaced the
>accelerator pump because it had been giving me trouble every since i got
>the car.  Unfortunately I did not have the 5 hours to totally rebuild the
>carb.  Of course me being in a hurry somehow I messed up the mechanism that
>opens up the other 2 barrels so now when I get into the other 2 barrels the
>engines slows down.  I think that the vacume mechanism that opens the two
>upper valves is not opening does anyone have any idea what the problem
>might be?  The car has been excellent until lately.



Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 07:31:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Olds Omega <oldsomega73@yahoo.com>
Subject: BAD Olds Owners (Long)

Well have TWO, yes TWO horrible stories to tell.  The first happened a
few days ago as I was filling up my car (a Chevy Monte Carlo SS, I
know I know, but I like it) and there was nice looking, though not
well taken care of 442. An emerald green with a white top of roughly
the 70 year model. (not TOO sure as I am new to the love of Olds but I
can see why so many do) I walk up to the guy and I say, "Nice car..."
The guy, a mid 20's year old, says to me "This car? I hate this car,
it's so big and sucks gas. The only reason I have it is cause my
parents gave it to me in college.  I want to sell it (at this point
I'm think TO ME, SELL IT TO ME) so that I can buy a (sigh) HONDA
PRELUDE or SUBARU IMPREZZA, but my parents won't let me." I had heard
enough at that point and left, just completly WALKED away.  BASTARD!
That car was sooo cool and he hated it? What a fool.  Then today,
while my friend and I were filling up his car (a 1978 Olds 98, with a
BB transplated from an earlier Olds, done by his grandfather, cool
granddad) We spotted a 67 Olds Cutlass, wiht HYDROs and tiny bike
wheels. As if that wasn't bad enough I was talking with the guy and I
asked if it had a 350 or other engine in there and he says "No man,
that engine died on me, so I didn't like it anyway, so I dropped in
the V6 from my old 91 FORD EXPLORER." I almost had a heart attack.
What the HELL was this guy thinking?  Anyway, I had to see this thing
and sure enough, there it is with the 4.0 tattoed on the top of the
fuel injected Fucked Over Reconditioned Dodge engine.  I almost
started to cry.  And to top it off, the guy had but Cobra emblems on
the side and trunk of the Cutlass... It's a cruel world.

Avery Plank
1986 Monte Carlo SS
Soon to own 1973 Olds Omega (I CAN'T WAIT)



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 10:39:25 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Buying privately through the mail

Even better is COD. That way: no pay - no parts. The seller gets his money
or his parts back. The buyer gets his parts at the same time he pays. The
only risk is that the seller could be out the postage. It's the only way I
will buy or sell on the net.

my .02



>There's always that problem of knowing that someone is going to send you
>what you paid for when you buy something from someone in a different
>state whom you have never met.  An interesting way  to help deal with
>this is to use what is called "the conditional endorsement" on the check
>you send to the person.  What you do is write out the check and then flip
>it over.  Where the payee of the check will eventually endorse it, you
>would write something like:"payable upon proof of delivery via fed ex of
>a 14.6 pound package" or something of the sort.  When the person takes
>the bank to the check, he would actually have to take with him a receipt
>from fed ex to prove that he has sent a package before the check is
>legally negotiable.  Of course, this is only if the teller notices, which
>she should.  If you don't get the part, the bank can then be held
>responsible for returning your money.  Easier than a phantom figure on a
>computer!  Just something to consider.
>
>Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
>                        Bucks County, PA
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 09:36:03 -0500
From: "Stephen M White" <white_steve@email.msn.com>
Subject: 64 Oldsmobile Starfire - brake booster

I am having problems with the brake booster on my 64 Starfire. When the
brakes are applied the engine revs drop (cuts out when cold!) and gets
choppy, and there is a deep continuous hissing sound, the pedal height
remains constant. Does this mean there is an air leak in the booster? Isn't
this supposed to be a vacuum? I checked hoses to manifold etc. did notice
that the hose had been replaced and that the one in use is "fuel line"
grade.

Also looking for info on idle adjustments etc. engine is a 330 with a 4 bbl
carb.
Any and all info appreciated.
Steve.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 10:42:14 -0400
From: Jim Olson <jolson@edzone.net>
Subject: Re: Engine missing after driving for 30 min

Sorry, I ignored the first few posts on this.

Does this car have points? If so, I had an old GM that did the same
thing. It turned out to be a bad condenser in the distributor.

Jim...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 10:48:40 +0100
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmuvm.csv.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: BAD Olds Owners (Long)

Olds Omega wrote:
>
> Well have TWO, yes TWO horrible stories to tell.  The first happened a
[snip]
> I'm think TO ME, SELL IT TO ME) so that I can buy a (sigh) HONDA
> PRELUDE or SUBARU IMPREZZA, but my parents won't let me." I had heard
> enough at that point and left, just completly WALKED away.  BASTARD!

HAHAHA!!! What were we just talkin' about, Avery?!?!? Most kids our age
have absolutely no mentallity. OOOHHH, I want an 4-banger with A HEADER,
19" rims with 10-profile tires, 8" exhaust tips, and Japenese racing
stickers!!! I've been there before, I know.

> That car was sooo cool and he hated it? What a fool.  Then today,
[snip]
> the V6 from my old 91 FORD EXPLORER." I almost had a heart attack.
> What the HELL was this guy thinking?  Anyway, I had to see this thing
> and sure enough, there it is with the 4.0 tattoed on the top of the
> fuel injected F*cked Over Reconditioned Dodge engine.  I almost
> started to cry.  And to top it off, the guy had but Cobra emblems on
> the side and trunk of the Cutlass... It's a cruel world.

Now, I would've honestly beat the s**t out of him. That's just wrong!!!!
Sick and wrong!!!

- --
*************
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
1975 Cutlass S Hardtop Coupe (250 L-6 1bbl) "parts car"
1973 Cutlass Supreme Hardtop Coupe (350 V-8 4bbl) "The Oldsmoslow"
1970 Cutlass S Holiday Coupe (350 V-8 2bbl) "The Unit"
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4bbl) "The Blue Taxi"
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
**************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 10:44:46 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 64 Oldsmobile Starfire - brake booster

Does this mean there is an air leak in the booster? Isn't
this supposed to be a vacuum? I checked hoses to manifold etc. did notice
that the hose had been replaced and that the one in use is "fuel line"
grade.
__________

This means there's a big-time vac leak.  Since it only happens when the
brakes are applied, chances are good that the diaphragm is shot.  Time to
get the booster rebuilt.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 10:48:58 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: 2.14

Ouch,

Just got the rear cover off and found 2.14 rears in Quincy. Talk about top
end. They should have been capable of 150+mph if the 307 could ever attain
it. No wonder I was only running 1,755 rpm at 70 mph! Got my hands on a
2.92? (S-10) possi. Should help the get up and go.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 10:58:13 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: BAD Olds Owners (Long)

On Wednesday, October 07, 1998 10:32 AM, Olds Omega 
[SMTP:oldsomega73@yahoo.com]
wrote: > Well have TWO, yes TWO horrible stories to tell.

[ horrible stories snipped ]

Well, it's good to hear these stories once in a while just so you know that
you're lucky to not have these Ford-V6-in-a-67-Cutlass inklings!  Isn't it
great to know what cool ~really~ is??  :-)

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 11:00:29 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: TH-200-C

On Wednesday, October 07, 1998 10:28 AM, Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS
[SMTP:gjcouse@francomm.com] wrote: > Is the TH 200-C (METRIC) worth anything
more than to hold down scrap sheet > metal on the scrap pile? > Most catalogs
don't even list after market products for it.

It's a good transmission for a semi-weak daily driver.  It's a great tranny
behind my 1984 Cutlass with a 307 (granted, it's been rebuilt once).  Of
course, if you plan to do anything to the car, like Olds 350, it'd probably be
better with a TH-350-C, although Thomas Martin ~does~ have a 200 behind his
Olds 350...

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 11:02:35 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: F*ord joke -

On Wednesday, October 07, 1998 9:17 AM, Worthington, David L
[SMTP:david_worthington@reyrey.com] wrote: > > > He then says to Henry Ford,"
It may be that my invention is flawed, but > > according to the stellar
computer, more men are riding my invention than > > yours."

HAHAHAHAH!!!!!!   LOL!!!!!

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 11:20:39 -0400
From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Subject: Delta for sale

	I must sell this car soon, i ahve too many bills and i cannot afford to
keep it. Im hoping somone fro the list will buy it from me. this is my 73
delta 88 w/455.It is located in Westtown NY, 10 minutes outside of
Middletown. It has a sticking choke(it stops after the car warms up) and
some frame rot (yes, a 1/2 x 4 inch horizontal hole). the only other areas
of rust are the typical bottom of fenders and over the wheel wells. front
chrome is very nice, door handles are very nice. interior is in great
shape. vinyl top is not faded or peeling.paiont is shiny, refigerator white
in color. bench seat interior, a/c and am radio (working). complete. dont
know the head codes. Factory hp is over 200, either 230 or 290.All lights
work, trans shifts smoothly.Factory 4bbl rochester carb.Brand new cooper
tires front and rear, 235/75/15.Factory hubcaps not rusted or dented. New
front brakes, pads and master cylinder. New water pump. This car was my
baby. Please somone give it a good home or diginfied death as an engine
donor for another olds.  im asking $600 neg. You can drive it home without
getting pulled over.(914)-726-3566 anyone wants more details email me
privately ainode@frontiernet.net . Thank You.

erik gertsen

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 11:13:56 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Engine missing after driving for 30 min

David Litke wrote:

> Hi all, I recently have been having some problems with my 72 Cutlass
> supreme.  It has 119k and I have been having a problem with it missing when
> I drive it for more than about 30 minutes.

        David,

        Does your car have a heat riser?  If it's stick in the closed position,
it will allow the AF mixture to get too hot.  I always thought this would just
reduce power, but maybe it could cause misfiring, too.   Have you checked your
sparkplug wires?  Electrical resistance generally increases with heat.  If you
have a marginally effective wire, the increase in heat, consequently
resistance, may be just enough to prevent a plug from firing.  Have you swapped
to an HEI?  If so, you may have a module beginning to go bad.  The heart of an
HEI module is a transistor.  Heat can play havoc with transistors.  Modules
don't always go all at once.  They can rapidly deteriorate until they do give
up the ghost.  Make sure the timing and dwell (if you still have points) are
set correctly.

> Of course me being in a hurry somehow I messed up the mechanism that
> opens up the other 2 barrels so now when I get into the other 2 barrels the
> engines slows down.

        Get the carb in good shape before you get drastic with anything else.
Make sure all passageways are free from obstructions.

> I think that the vacume mechanism that opens the two
> upper valves is not opening does anyone have any idea what the problem
> might be?

        I assume this is a Q-Jet.  Forgive me for splitting hairs, but the
vacuum unit (actually, it's the choke pull-off which is also linked to the
secondary air valve) on a Q-Jet doesn't open the air valve.  I holds it
closed.  As engine speed increases and the secondary throttles open (they must
be open before the air valve opens), engine vacuum drops. This allows the rod
on the pull-off to extend, in direct proportion to engine demand.  Since the
air valve is no longer being held shut, the inrushing air acting directly on
the air valve can open it.  If you have doubts about the choke pull-off, just
see if it retracts when you start the engine.

        Happy hunting,

        Thomas P. Smith
        1971 Cutlass S 350

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 09:50:31 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)

>ALL KINDS OF LITTLE METAL BITS IN THE OIL PAN - VERY DISHEARTENING.  I also
>found quite a few washer looking things in the pan, they were real thin,
>real small, and looked real important.  Oh well.  The pan is also currently
>SPOTLESS, thank you, although I have to go to bed soon from breathing all
>those fumes...also cleaned all of the parts that I took off, so pretty soon
>I'm going to have a Beatles car ("...it's a clean machine...")...


These metal shavings could be bearing pices, however if your motor ran
smooth and sounded good they are probably okay.  SAME thing with my 307, and
guess what it was.  CAM GEAR.  What happend was the timing chain was
streching and I kept ignoring it, only resetting the timing often so it
would run good.  Finally, the chain gave.  I thought that it broke, but
(after I rebuilt the 455 and put it in) I took the timing cover off, and
wow, there was almost no metal left on the cam gear.  I saw small metal
shavings around, took the oil pan off and they were there too.  If this is
it, then expect the timig chain to slip off.  If the thing has high miles
(over or at around 100,000) you should change the timing chain.  Not a big
deal, and it is cheap.  Any other ides on this?  Anybody?

>You are, however, correct: pulling the motor would have been a hell of a
>lot easier.

Oh yeah, you could have just pulled a couple of intake bolts, hooked up the
hoist,  jacked up until you got the same height.

>Also in Chilton's...there's a section called "Rear Main Seal", and they
>give you directions on how to replace this WITHOUT removing the engine.  Do
>you think they're nuts, or is this just the really difficult way to do it,
>or what?

>I tell you what, if the leak is coming from somewhere BESIDES the
>oil pan OR the valve covers (both of which are getting replaced), then
>(according to you) the leak is from the intake manifold (in which case I'm
>currently SOL, as removing that wasn't in the game plan) or the rear main
>seal...IF you think I can replace the rear main seal NOW, before the oil
>pan goes back on, NOW would be a good time to do it...Is this a one-piece
>seal, or two?  If it's one piece, Chilton says I have to drop the tranny,
>which is a big *AAAAIIIINNNGGGG THANK YOU DRIVE THRU!" to me...two pieces,
>though, hmmm......


Yes, they are nuts.  EVEN if you had the car up on a hoist, like they did, I
would not do this.  As far as I know, I can't think of any other place of
leak but what I told you.  However, some else mentioned something else, I
can't remeber.  Don't even try to change the crank while the motor is in.
It is heavy, you can drop it-damage it-kill yourself.  It would be a lot
harder then getting that pan off.  Intake is nothing compared to what you
did so far.  If you have ever reinstalled the starter, you know that trying
to hold it in one hand while putting the bolts it and tightening them is
hard.  It can get heavy.  TRY THE CRANK.  It has to weigh at least 80lbs
like someone else mentioned.  Good luck


>And what about that intake manifold?  I'm going to have to disconnect a
>bunch of hoses and such in order to get the valve covers off anyway...is it
>such a big deal to pull the manifold as well?  Or is this a really stupid
>idea?


I don't know, depends on wether it leaks or not.  Look in the back, you
should be able to tell.  It is not difficult and since you are pulling most
of that crap off, it would not take to much more effort.  But it would not
be as easy as the valvecovers.

>I know I have a big case of the MIGHTASWELLS.  Let me know what I should
>(or shouldn't) do.


You are in a crapy spot.  IF you already pulled the engine mounts and maybe
even the exaust, pull the motor, put it on an egine stand (can rent but are
cheap to buy, bite it).  Change all the gaskets, change the timing chain,
clean up the gunk off the motor. buy a can of paint and squirt it, it would
look good and not leak.  This is what I would do, however you have to hurry
if you wan't to drive it this weakend.  I suppose you could but the oil-pan
back together, put the motor back in, drive it, then when youu have
time-money (not too much money) pull the motor and do this.  Change the
oilpump while you are at it.


>PS Hey Igor, is that bad ass '81 Delta of yours a 2-door or a 4?


It is a 4-door.    Kicks ass.  DAMN bastard said he needs two more weeks to
finish it.  I WANT MY CAR BACK.  I am having it painted light metallic blue
with two thick silver stripes on the hood and trunk.  I hope it looks good.
I have BFGoodrich 255/60/15 raised-white letter tires, a set of Cragar SS
15x10 rims for the back and 15x7 for front.  It has dual exhaust and chrome
tips (single tips my friend gave me), however I want dual dual chrome tips
(quad exits) and a set of 275/60/15 tires for rear for more traction.  I
only drove the 455 for a week so I did not really have any fun with it yet
(except for the fact that while I was trying to impress a bunch of chicks on
the bus-stop with my friends, I got pulled over for stunting.  I lit the
tires, and then fishtailed back and forth through the intersection as the
tires were desperately trying to hook-up (courtesy of 3.23s and a 12-inch
converter.  Even though it is a posi rear end, still no traction).  Stupid
cop came from nowhere, but she was nice and gave me a fail-to-signal ticket
($57 bucks and 2 points) Vs. a stunting ticket ($150 bucks and 6 POINTS)).
Lucky.

Good luck, let me know what you decide to do.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/propane/th2004r)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 08:51:10 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: BAD Olds Owners (Long)

> "I want to sell it (at this point I'm think TO ME, SELL IT TO ME)
> so that I can buy a (sigh) HONDA PRELUDE or SUBARU IMPREZA, but my
> parents won't let me." I had heard enough at that point and left,
> just completely WALKED away.  BASTARD! That car was sooo cool and
> he hated it? What a fool.

Next time this happens, get the guy's phone number and tell him
you'll post the info here. Just because you're not prepared to buy
it yourself doesn't mean there's no way you can save it.

> We spotted a 67 Olds Cutlass, with HYDROs and tiny bike wheels.

*cough*  This one's a little hard to defend, but... um... hey, at
least he didn't junk the whole car. I don't have a big problem with
the bolt-on crapola, although it often means the original parts have
been lost or tossed.  :-(

> And to top it off, the guy had but Cobra emblems on the side and
> trunk of the Cutlass... It's a cruel world.

The owner of the Cobra who lost those emblems would probably agree
with you on that.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 07:42:29 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Aluminum Hoods

My '79 Cutlass Supreme Brougham had either an aluminum or fiberglass
hood.  I found out one day when the towtruck came to get it to take it
down to get a new engine, they couldn't get their magnetic taillights to
stick to the hood.

This is also relevant to the timing chain issue that's being discussed.
The '79 needed a new engine because the 260 was destroyed by a fragged
timing gear.  One day I started it and it ran like sh*t, was all I could
do to keep it idling, and had to floor it to keep up with traffic.  The
chain must have slipped a few teeth at that point.  Two days later I was
on the freeway when the oil light came on and nasty noises eminated from
the engine.  I was on a bridge so I had to run about 1/2 mile with no
oil pressure before I could pull over.  Post mortem revealed that the
nylon timing gear had shredded and the particles had plugged up the oil
pickup screen.  A minor testament to the heartyness of an Olds engine:
It started and ran under it's own power, although barely, enough to
drive it from the towtruck around the block to get into the garage where
the engine was to be changed.  The guy who saw it couldn't believe it
still ran at ALL after seeing the gear.

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 10:01:09 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)

According to Gary, it could be the fuel-pump oil leak.  Possible, since I
know when I pulled the old pump off the 455 during dissasembley, it was
nasty there.  Lots of leak.  Fuel pump on Olds is easy to change (even if
you have A/C which makes things a little harder).  Also, chap as well.
Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 11:08:59 +0000
From: MB0 <MB0@americancentury.com>
Subject: 69 Cutlass grill color

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- --------------608A14D83358
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Do the 69 Olds owners have a silver/gray paint they have used in the
past to paint the grills/headlight housings? I'd like to come close to
matching original color, and also get a lasting coat.

Thanks in advance!
Mike Baugher
69 Cutlass S convertible

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1536
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