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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1535


oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, October 7 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1535



Re: upholstery
Re: disk brake spindles
Re: under hood color
Wax
Re: For Sale: 79 Olds Delta 88 (long)
Re: For Sale: 79 Olds Delta 88 (long)
Re: Wax
Re: Edelbrock Heads - Anyone try them ?
Lower Prices!
Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)
MSD Ignition opinions desired
Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)
Re: A4 intake was: '84 & earlier heads, will they fit? (87 olds)
Re: Still overheating, next step, a kia
Re: Brake spindles
Re: Aluminum Hoods
re:oil pan
Re: Edelbrock Heads - Anyone try them ?
RE: Aluminum Hoods
Re: Question - Dash Noise - Speedometer Cable?
RE: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)
Re: Aluminum Hoods
RE: Aluminum Hoods
Re: disk brake spindles
Fwd: WTB: 72 f-85 parts
Re: Wax
Re: Wax
442 Question
Re: 442 Question
Re: Aluminum Hoods
Re: 442 Question
Engine Rebuild
Re: 455 vs. 425
F-41 Cutlass
RE: Rally Pack -- definition wanted
Re: Engine Rebuild
Re: Anyone have a console FS?
Re: Engine Rebuild
Re: 442 Question - mirror
Re: under hood color
re:oil pan
Re: 442 Question
Re: Rally Pack -- definition wanted
Re: Engine Rebuild
Re: 442 Question
G-Body Tail Light Questions:
G-Body Header Panel Questions:
Re: Engine Rebuild
A Body Quarter Drain Plug?
Re: Engine Rebuild
Re:  G-Body Tail Light Questions:
Re: Power Seat Pirating Trick
Re: G-Body Tail Light Questions:
Re: G-Body Header Panel Questions:
Re: 83 Cutlass Delay Wipers
Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 17:45:16 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: upholstery

On Mon, 5 Oct 1998, Bruce Camilli wrote:
> Does anyone have any suggestions on replacing stock upholstery for a
> front bench seat for a 70 Olds Delta 88??? Is there companies selling
> reproduction kits??? Your suggestions are greatly appeciated

I don't know of any for a full-sizer. I think you're going to have to find
an upholstery shop with the skills to reproduce the original pattern in
vinyl. I know there is a place that can find matching auto fabric for
domestic cars of this vintage, but I forget the name. Perhas someone can
follow-up with the name.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 13:46:07 -0700
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: disk brake spindles

Bob Blanchard wrote:

> (9 1/2" X 3" nearly impossible to find station wagon drum) are the
> same spindles as a disk brake car

So you are saying the Vista Cruiser Drum Spindles and the same as
Cutlass/442 Disc Spindles for that time frame?  Enquiring minds like
me needs to know! :-)

- --
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 17:48:01 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: under hood color

I have had mixed results with Eastwoood paints. They need surfaces either
primed or very well degreased in my experience. I have had good results
with Krylon and Varathane semi-gloss blacks.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 17:51:49 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Wax

On the weekend I decided to take advantage of what was likely one of the
last nice days to give the old* Delta a bath. It needed it. Don*t think I
had washed it in months. Then I decided to try my hand at wet-sanding and
compounding out some overspray on a few touch-up areas I did back in the
summer. That*s the nice thing about having a beater, you can practice
things like this without getting too concerned if you screw up. This
turned out quite well however. Since I bought a Craftsman auto polisher a
few months ago that was just sitting around here since, I decided to carry
on and try it again to give the old beast a coat of wax. I had only used
it once before with the little sample tube of wax they provide and had
been in all honesty unimpressed with the results.

This time I decided to try a can of wax that had been in my collection for
years and which I had never used. "Color Back" wax, by Turtle. I assume it
is a high-abrasive content wax, which is why it has been sitting on the
shelf so long. If memory serves I never actually bought the stuff but had
it given to me. The Delta'*s dark carmine paint always had what looked
like a foggy clearcoat on it which had not responded to a couple of other
wax products. This stuff worked magic on it. Now I realize that the fog
was obviously oxidization, and this stuff in combination with the polisher
really did a job on it. It is still an old paint job, so there are nicks
and scuffs, but it looks a whole lot better, deep and rich. I recommend
this stuff if you'*ve got tired paint. Did wonders for the old'¡78.

I also scrubbed and Formula 2000-ed the vinyl roof (I like it better than
ArmorAll, it*s thicker), did the same to the interior vinyl, vacuumed out
the trunk and interior, scrubbed the whitewalls, cleaned the glass inside
and out.  Looks quite presentable now. I even took pictures. For a future
Delta web page, I figure.

If only I could find a nice front bumper for the thing cheap... naw, there
I go restoring it again... :)

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 17:55:30 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: For Sale: 79 Olds Delta 88 (long)

Selling?!? Traitor! ;-) This sounds like my '78!
<description of senior car snipped>
> further. I'm asking $400, will make a consideration for list members or
> referrals.

Hey, what a steal! Somebody ought to buy this classic.

> Basically, I see this as a parts car that can be driven away,
> as long as you don't mind a loud exhaust and low cosmetic appeal.

Low cosmetic appeal?!? Why you %!@#$%#$#@!....  ;-)

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 14:46:27 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: For Sale: 79 Olds Delta 88 (long)

>> Basically, I see this as a parts car that can be driven away,
>> as long as you don't mind a loud exhaust and low cosmetic appeal.
>
>Low cosmetic appeal?!? Why you %!@#$%#$#@!....  ;-)

That should be "low, cosmetic appeal" but the comma is missing.
Basically it means the springs are sagging.  :-)

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 14:53:20 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Wax

> This time I decided to try a can of wax that had been in my
> collection for years and which I had never used. "Color Back"
> wax, by Turtle.

I thought "Color Back" was a finish restorer rather than a wax;
i.e. after you've used it to remove the oxidized paint, you then
have to follow up with wax. Of course, if the label says it's wax,
then I guess it's wax. (I am thinking of some white liquidy stuff
that I used to use which I thought had that name.)

> scrubbed the whitewalls,

Beg, borrow or steal Westley's Bleche-Wite. Requires no scrubbing;
just spray on a _dry_ tire, let soak, blast with high pressure
spray, admire results. Greatest thing since sliced bread.

- -- Andy


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 17:56:55 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Re: Edelbrock Heads - Anyone try them ?

I'm putting them (Edelbrock Heads) on a 425 that Dick Miller Racing is in
the process of building for me.  Block is at the machine shop so it will be
at least a month or two before it's assembled and ready to fire up.

We'll dyno it this Fall/Winter, but I won't be driving 'til next Spring.

I'll post the dyno numbers as well full specs on components when we're
finished.

In general:  Port injected with a Edelbrock Torker, 9.5:1 possibly 9.75:1,
hydraulic cam (haven't figured the specs yet) w/roller lifters and rockers

Dick put the heads on the flow bench and he's going to publish the numbers
in his next newsletter.  Basicaly compared to a "C" head he found out that
the Intakes tested about the same and the Exhaust showed a good improvement.

For those not familiar with Dick his visit his web site:
http://www.mspmall.com/dmr/

BTW:  My experience with Dick has been excellent.

jp

Jonathan Parke
mailto:jonparke@together.net
'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 18:01:30 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Lower Prices!

Wow!  I went to my local SW VA GM dealer to buy new sway bar endlinks and frame
bushings and the prices are great!  $9.30 for each endlink and only $3.60 for
the frame mounts!  Last time I bought suspension parts up in Northern VA, the
endlinks themselves cost more than today's total bill!

Woo-hoo!

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 17:13:26 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)

There has been some discussion, mostly on the list, that I may have a
"swinging oil pickup" problem, or the "oil pickup tube" has come loose.  At
any rate, the pan is loose now, and I need to get it out so I can put it
back on the correct way...I am also doing the rocker covers at the same
time, I just havn't started on them yet...

At 04:16 AM 10/6/98 -0400, you wrote:
>
>On Tue, 06 Oct 1998 06:53:47 PDT "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
>writes:
>>> A whole bunch of oil, all over the place, on the pan, filter,
>>> starter, EVERYWHERE.  So, we're leaking somewhere.
>>>
>>> I go to take the oil pan off.
>>
>>Ermm... this is not the followup you want to see, but did you
>>find the source of the leak? It's the oil pan? More commonly
>>it's something overhead like the rocker covers; after all, if
>>anything _above_ the oil pan is wet, the oil most likely came
>>from above it, not below it...
>>
>>-- Andy
>>
>Yes, plus it's hard for the oil to get onto the oil pan if it's leaking
>from it.  Unless the leak is at the front, in which case, you probably
>wouldn't notice much of a leak unless you drive around backwards all the
>time.
>
>>______________________________________________________
>>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>>
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 06:09:50 -0400
From: rocket409@juno.com (Ray Costanzo)
Subject: MSD Ignition opinions desired

Hi there Olds-offs.
I'd like to hear from anyone with experience with MSD 6AL or other
ignition boxes, how well they work, what they do, how compatible they are
with HEI, etc.

I'm looking to solve ignition timing problems that I won't bother whining
about yet.
Thanks all!

Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass
                        Bucks County, PA

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 16:42:21 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)

>I CAN'T GET THE %$#^&*@ OIL PAN OUT!!!!!    Won't clear the frame on the
bottom,
>won't clear the..."balancer" on the transmission side (parts terminology is
>extremely lacking here).

You mean the torque converter (big round thing on the front of trans), the
harmonic balancer is the round solid thing behind the main belt pully at the
front.


>HOIST I DO NOT WANT TO LIFT THE ENGINE I DO NOT WANT TO RENT A HOIST ETC
>ETC ETC.


Man, oh man.  From my experience on the '80s Delta, the ONLY way to get the
pan out IS to either lift the motor, OR drop the trans.  It is harder to
drop the trans.  I suppose if you could jack the motor far enough (don't
even try this) you could pull the pan out.  However, the easiest way to do
this is go NOW and rent the hoist and lift the DAMN thing out, or atleast
raise it to the point where you can get the pan off.  I know, I know, I know
that this is not the answer that you wanted, but if you figure another way,
please tell me.  As far as major oil leak back there, I think that it is
either the oil-pan, rear-main oil seal (ouch), valve covers or the intake
manifold.  Probably the oil pan, then maybe the rear-main.  IF it is the
rear-main, the crank has to come out, so the bottom end must be
disassembled.  Although possible with the motor handing there on the hoist,
if would be a whole lot easier to do it on the engine-stand.  But I guess,
since the pan if off, you have no choice but to lift the motor, so then you
can see (once the @!$% pan is out of your way).  Really, pulling the motor
up is a whole lot easier since the motor mounts/starter/etc.. if off now.
Igor.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/propane/th2004r)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 18:53:40 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: A4 intake was: '84 & earlier heads, will they fit? (87 olds)

All 84 and older 307, 350 and 403's use the same port size for the
> intake.
>
> 85 and up used a size more like the 260 did.  (READ: TINY!).


Correction:  You mean 86 and up.  I can show you two matching #s 85 442s
that have the "bigger" ports and 5A heads.  It's the same engine used in
the 84 H/O from carb to pan.  Speaking of carbs, my black 442, which I
ordered new so I KNOW it wasn't swapped, came with a "5" restamped over
the "4" on the carb # for the year.  Didn't even realize this until I
was hand cleaning the engine one day in '93.   The things GM did to save
a buck...

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 16:59:11 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Still overheating, next step, a kia

>Are the flaps over the wheelwells in place?  Is the front air dam in
>place?


Thank you Martin.  This is exactly what I did with my '81 Delta before
installing the BB.  I removed what was left of those flaps, thinking that it
WOULD improve airflow.  I should have known better.  I bet this is exactly
why my BB runs 210  (and once 230, at which point I pulled over) at higher
speed (like 55mph +).  Once I slow down to a traffic  jam, it cools down.  I
got rid of most of my temp (down to 190-200) on highway at most (at 80mph
with 3.23s) but I bet when I get the car back from the bodyshop, throw some
flaps back on it will run cooler.  HMM.  I gotta go.  I have to call the
bodyshop to see when my car will FINALLY be done so that I can enjoy.  Igor.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/propane/th2004r)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 19:00:45 -0400
From: Kyle Roe <karoe@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: Brake spindles

Wouldnt surprise me if the front wagon drums were more heavy duty  (the rears
are  1/2 " wider and a wagon only piece -- I just replaced a pair).

If Hollander can assist, they say that the spindle for the disk is the same
spindle on '67-'72 disc as well as
 **********     '70-'72  Drum   w/OAI    **********************.

Did police pkgs get OAI ?  Does anyone with original OAI have front drums and
can assist ? It is a very good thing to know as we stroll thru 'the yards'.
Thanks,   Kyle
'70 442 ragtop
'71 Vista Cruiser (soon leaving to a new home).

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 19:00:58 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Aluminum Hoods

> A friend of mine's father said they came on Diesel cars, He had one on a
> 1979 98.  I have seen one on a 1982 Malibu wagon with a V8 305.
>
> They are out there, just find them for a Cutlass or 88/98/Wagon!
>
My dad had an aluminum hood on an 84 Salon.  And in '91, when I was
checking parts prices, you got a choice between an aluminum or steel for
the same price.

And this part is weird.  On my 85 442 that I got new, it has a clear
protector strip under the stainless center hood molding.  It has a steel
hood.  When I went to buy a replacement strip, the book said that it's
application was used for cars equipped with aluminum hoods only.  So,
either they lie, or someone putting on the strip at the factory goofed.
Which, isn't all that far fetched.  Anyone else have a steel hood with
the protective strip under the chrome?  Just wondering if mine was a
fluke, or supposed to be that way.  Not like it will cure the national
debt or anything, but was just curious on this little tidbit.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 19:19:54 -0400
From: Kyle Roe <karoe@us.ibm.com>
Subject: re:oil pan

forgot what we're working on here. '70 manual says to drop the tranny and jack
the engine both.
1. disconnect battery   .2.  disconnect fan shroud  .3. drain oil (duh.)    .4.
remove propeller shaft and disconect exhaust pipe and starter   .5.
disconnect  (lines and stuff)  from tranny    .6.  remove tranny crossmember,
tranny, and flywheel    .7.  remove right engine mount and raise engine 2
inches.  .8. loosen left engine mount to block bolts enough to permit the
removal of all oil pan bolts  (huh?)   .9. free pan from block and disconnect
oil pump.
.10.  remove pan and pump together.

This is for a   455 is an A-Body car.  All others are same except NOT removing
the tranny, disconnect engine mounts and jack front of engine as high as
possible.  Rest is fundamentally the same. Wish I was there to assist.

Kyle.
'70 442 ragtop

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 19:21:32 -0400
From: "Ken" <olds442@en.com>
Subject: Re: Edelbrock Heads - Anyone try them ?

>>
>Oh, you get to go to the Summit store!  I am jealous!  Is it very cool?
>
>Ray Costanzo                                        87 409 Cutlass



heh, very cool?  umm an understatement.. it's awesome.. the sales people
aren't the smartest I've encountered.. but they have alot of stuff on
display, and the clearance parts table is great.

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 19:33:04 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: Aluminum Hoods

On Tuesday, October 06, 1998 7:01 PM, Mike Rothe. [SMTP:hurstolds@xtalwind.net]
wrote: > > My dad had an aluminum hood on an 84 Salon.

Ohh!  My turn to correct on the Salon/Calais issue!  If he had a 1984 model,
wouldn't it have been a Calais?  :-)

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 16:43:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Question - Dash Noise - Speedometer Cable?

- ---"Thomas Q. Bartee" <tbartee@mitre.org> wrote:
 I
> am getting a reasonable loud 'ticking' noise (sometimes more of a
grinding
> noise) coming out of the dashboard, sounds like somewhere near the
> speedometer. <snip>

- ----You can buy a  fitting from Eastwood that allows to to lube the
speedo cable with a grease gun...on the car !! the other options are
replacement or some "white lithium grease" sprayed down the
tube....I've did this one several cars and fixed the problem....but
oil just won't do it....

==
John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com    ICQ # 16956740
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 20:07:58 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)

I entered the thread late, but have you checked the weep hole on the bottom
side of the fuel pump arm housing? Changed one today for that very reason.
Side + bottom of block and back covered with oil...

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
gjcouse@francomm.com
  
1986 Custom Cutlass Brougham = "Quincy"


<>-----Original Message-----
<>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Andrew C. Green
<>Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 1998 9:54 AM
<>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<>Subject: Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)
<>
<>
<>> A whole bunch of oil, all over the place, on the pan, filter,
<>> starter, EVERYWHERE.  So, we're leaking somewhere.
<>>
<>> I go to take the oil pan off.
<>
<>Ermm... this is not the followup you want to see, but did you
<>find the source of the leak? It's the oil pan? More commonly
<>it's something overhead like the rocker covers; after all, if
<>anything _above_ the oil pan is wet, the oil most likely came
<>from above it, not below it...
<>
<>-- Andy
<>
<>______________________________________________________
<>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
<>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 20:14:37 -0400
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Aluminum Hoods

> > My dad had an aluminum hood on an 84 Salon.
>
> Ohh!  My turn to correct on the Salon/Calais issue!  If he had a 1984 model,
wouldn't it have been > a Calais?  :-)

Uh, yeah. That's it.  Real rare.  Came with aluminum hoods.  Just
kidding.  Hahaha.  Good catch.  Duh me!  Yeah, I meant Calais.  They
didn't make a Salon in 84.  I stand corrected.  It was a Calais, the RWD
version, the only REAL Calais in my opinion.  I'm so used to ordering
parts for an 85.....

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 20:19:53 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: Aluminum Hoods

On Tuesday, October 06, 1998 8:15 PM, Mike Rothe. [SMTP:hurstolds@xtalwind.net]
wrote: > > didn't make a Salon in 84.  I stand corrected.  It was a Calais, the
RWD > version, the only REAL Calais in my opinion...

Hear hear!  Hear hear!  Nah, some of the newer ones (read: Quad-442) are dang
quick, I'm just a RWD guy myself.

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://jadcock.home.ml.org

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 20:55:57 EDT
From: Bob149@aol.com
Subject: Re: disk brake spindles

> > (9 1/2" X 3" nearly impossible to find station wagon drum) are the
>  > same spindles as a disk brake car
>
>  So you are saying the Vista Cruiser Drum Spindles and the same as
>  Cutlass/442 Disc Spindles for that time frame?  Enquiring minds like
>  me needs to know! :-)

I'me not sure if they all do,  but the Heavy duty ones are the same

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 20:52:27 -0400
From: Rich Inacker <rinacker@voicenet.com>
Subject: Fwd: WTB: 72 f-85 parts

Guys,

This note came to me directly. As I don't have an 68-72 parts, I thought
I'd pass it along. If someone can help Anthony out, please respond to him
directly at:  chevlle@pacbell.net

Rich

>Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 16:29:28 -0700
>From: ANTHONY DAVIS <chevlle@pacbell.net>
>Reply-To: chevlle@pacbell.net
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>To: rinacker@voicenet.com
>Subject: 72 f-85 parts
>
>I'm trying to find a grill for this car if you could be any help me in
>any way,a great thanks goes out to you and family.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 22:34:20 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Wax

On Tue, 6 Oct 1998, Andrew C. Green wrote:
> I thought "Color Back" was a finish restorer rather than a wax;
> i.e. after you've used it to remove the oxidized paint, you then
> have to follow up with wax. Of course, if the label says it's wax,
> then I guess it's wax. (I am thinking of some white liquidy stuff
> that I used to use which I thought had that name.)

Hmmm.... (running to the basement to check)... OK, it's a polish. Reading
the label, it says they combined Color Back finish restorer (the stuff you
must have used) with a polish. Thanks for the tip, never thought to read
the label of course...

> Beg, borrow or steal Westley's Bleche-Wite. Requires no scrubbing;
> just spray on a _dry_ tire, let soak, blast with high pressure
> spray, admire results. Greatest thing since sliced bread.

That's what I used, but I scrubbed them anyway. Bad news; according to
Canadian Tire, this product has been discontinued. Dunno if that means
it's no longer being made or they just aren't stocking it any more. Too
bad, it's great stuff. I'm hoarding the rest of this bottle.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 21:49:50 -0400
From: "Thomas Q. Bartee" <tbartee@mitre.org>
Subject: Re: Wax

I'd check your local auto parts supermarket for a similar product.  As I
recall, Trak Auto here in VA makes a product similar to Bleech-Wite.

>That's what I used, but I scrubbed them anyway. Bad news; according to
>Canadian Tire, this product has been discontinued. Dunno if that means
>it's no longer being made or they just aren't stocking it any more. Too
>bad, it's great stuff. I'm hoarding the rest of this bottle.
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 19:02:39 PDT
From: "flynt myrick" <f_myrick@hotmail.com>
Subject: 442 Question

Listmembers,
  Was a passenger door rear view mirror standard or an option on 1969
442s?  My car has the holes drilled on the outside passenger door but
the mirror is missing.  Any thoughts?

Flynt Myrick
f_myrick@hotmail.com
http://www.hotmail.com


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 22:16:00 -0400
From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: Re: 442 Question

On my 69 442 there are no hols drilled for a mirror.  I know for a fact
it is the original door to the car, therefore I would assume that it was
an option to be ordered.  As far as concrete info goes, I am not sure.
But seeing as how there are no mouting holes or a bracket, I think it
would be safe to assume it's an option.  We'll see if my theory gets shot
down or not.  :)

Dan Gerow
dgerow@student.stonehill.edu

flynt myrick wrote:

> Listmembers,
>   Was a passenger door rear view mirror standard or an option on 1969
> 442s?  My car has the holes drilled on the outside passenger door but
> the mirror is missing.  Any thoughts?
>
> Flynt Myrick
> f_myrick@hotmail.com
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 21:24:12 -0500
From: "Tracy H. Shires" <twodogs@ou.edu>
Subject: Re: Aluminum Hoods

At 07:00 PM 10/6/98 -0400, you wrote:

>> A friend of mine's father said they came on Diesel cars, He had one on a

>> 1979 98.  I have seen one on a 1982 Malibu wagon with a V8 305.

>>

>> They are out there, just find them for a Cutlass or 88/98/Wagon!

>>

>My dad had an aluminum hood on an 84 Salon.  And in '91, when I was

>checking parts prices, you got a choice between an aluminum or steel for

>the same price.

>

>And this part is weird.  On my 85 442 that I got new, it has a clear

>protector strip under the stainless center hood molding.  It has a steel

>hood.  When I went to buy a replacement strip, the book said that it's

>application was used for cars equipped with aluminum hoods only.  So,

>either they lie, or someone putting on the strip at the factory goofed.

>Which, isn't all that far fetched.  Anyone else have a steel hood with


Is the question whether the strip should be clear, should be there at all, or
just relevant to 85's? My original 81 hood had a black protector strip
underneath the chrome - although most of the visible parts had cracked of over
time. I put a new hood off an 83 when I smashed my original to shreds, and it
also had a black protector strip on it. Both were steel hoods..


Found a good looking late 70's toro out in salvage yard.. I was looking for 
some
engine parts, and the hood was bent so I tried to push it up, darn thing flew 
on
top of the car, apparently unbolted too.. It was lighter than any body part 
I've
dealt with... It'd be an awesome weight saver...




T. H. Shires				81 C/S/B Rckt 350

Denton, Tx				    3 Sticks

					

mailto:TwoDogs@ou.edu		


<bold>University of Oklahoma

</bold><italic><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param>Mechanical
Engineering

</color></italic>


"If it was put together, it can be taken apart."

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 22:43:09 -0400
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: Re: 442 Question

I've focused on 69's for the last 5 years while restoring my 69.  At all
the shows I've been at and all the magazines/books I've read, I've never
seen a passanger side mirror that matches my drivers side remote mirror
or any original RH mirror. I've asked the same question through this
server and have never received a positive answer.  I have to conclude
this was not option.  I just looked through my assembly manual.  I can
find reference to a LH mirror but no RH mirror.  Wayne

flynt myrick wrote:
>
> Listmembers,
>   Was a passenger door rear view mirror standard or an option on 1969
> 442s?  My car has the holes drilled on the outside passenger door but
> the mirror is missing.  Any thoughts?
>
> Flynt Myrick
> f_myrick@hotmail.com
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 22:53:30 -0400
From: Gasman24 <stulk@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Engine Rebuild

Hi list members,
 I'd like your input on this, I'm going to be re-building a '79 Olds 403
soon and I'm looking to get some good performance out of it.
Here's what I'm thinking about doing to it:
First get rid of my #4a heads and go with a set of #5 heads,
casting #397742.
Then I will use the Edelbrock Performer RPM cam and intake.
The block will be a stock rebuild, useing new parts if needed (like
pistons, con rods).
I would like to get a gear type drive insted of double roller timming
gear (just for the cool sound) is that a good idea?
Also will roller rockers work on the #5 heads? With out a lot of machine
work?
  The trans in the car (by the way it's a '79 T/A) is a TH350, it's been
rebuilt with shift kit and a slight stall convter (something like 1200)
stock gears in the rear. Allthough I might change them later, something
like 3:73's.
  Does any of this sound like a good idea?
  Thanks for any input!
                Scott

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 22:54:32 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: 455 vs. 425

I have three 425's that use a 10.5:1 compression ratio without any
consideration.  They run just fine on good, brand name 93 octane pump gas.
Consequently, I am able to infer that higher C.R.'s are within easy grasp
without too much drama.  What were you thinking of?  12:1, 13:1?  The 425 is
a sweet motor.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: william goodnight <idaholc@primenet.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, October 06, 1998 4:19 PM
Subject: 455 vs. 425


>I know that I have seen strings in the past discussing the relative merits
>of the 455 vs. the 425.  They didn't mean much to me at the time, but now I
>have the opportunity to purchase a 425 for a street machine I am building
>which I previously planned to rebuild a 455 for.   Can anyone help me out?
>
>Also, what is the practical limit on compression ratio on a 425 for
>servicable steet use?
>
>
>Bill Goodnight
>Goodnight & Associates, Inc.
>idaholc@primenet.com
>1014 E. Franklin
>Boise, Idaho
>(208)345-0158

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 23:12:13 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: F-41 Cutlass

JJP442@aol.com wrote:
>
> Jerry,
> I don't own it just saw it locally awhile back. It was a white 86 Cutlass
> Salon w/SSIII buckets, console etc. and a trunk badge, orange  w/black trim
> F-41.
> Car really looked sharp, haven't seen it lately.

Wonder if it was just a sticker, or an emblem off of something else...

This is DEFINITELY stuff I am looking for...  Along with this info I am
looking for the FE3 Emblem I've seen on an 87 around here...  I know
what FE3 is, but why stick a sticker on it?

Dealer option maybe?
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 23:15:08 -0400
From: "Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Rally Pack -- definition wanted

<Snip>

he rally pack refers to the "tic toc tac" which is a tach on the outside
with the clock on the inside, and then the gauge package would be in place
of your idiot lights. I just saw a working set at the recent local car show,
a place called "The Parts Place" had them, $600.00 - Ouch!!.  They are not
cheap by any stretch of the imagination.

<Q>

What's the value of these Rally Gauge Packages? Anyone else have a cost
figure for these? I know of 3 sets of them.

- ----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
gjcouse@francomm.com
  
1986 Custom Cutlass Brougham = "Quincy"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 22:23:50 -0500
From: "Tracy H. Shires" <twodogs@ou.edu>
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild

At 10:53 PM 10/6/98 -0400, you wrote:

>Hi list members,

> I'd like your input on this, I'm going to be re-building a '79 Olds 403

>soon and I'm looking to get some good performance out of it.

>Here's what I'm thinking about doing to it:

>First get rid of my #4a heads and go with a set of #5 heads,

>casting #397742.

>Then I will use the Edelbrock Performer RPM cam and intake.


Be wary of the performer rpm.., I'm still trying to sort out problems...


>The block will be a stock rebuild, useing new parts if needed (like

>pistons, con rods).

>I would like to get a gear type drive insted of double roller timming

>gear (just for the cool sound) is that a good idea?


I din't know they made gears for oldsmobiles..? Have you found a listing for 
em?


>Also will roller rockers work on the #5 heads? With out a lot of machine

>work?


Not a problem.. I have mondello's kit.. Came with arp studs, comp roller
rockers, comp guide plates, and pushrods of undetermined length and orgin....


>  The trans in the car (by the way it's a '79 T/A) is a TH350, it's been

>rebuilt with shift kit and a slight stall convter (something like 1200)

>stock gears in the rear. Allthough I might change them later, something

>like 3:73's.


I have 3.73's in mine.. Screamed under the th-350.., had my best 1/8 time with
it.. Blew the clutches doing 75-80 at 5000 rpm though.., quickly went to an
overdrive tranny..

>  Does any of this sound like a good idea?

>  Thanks for any input!

>                Scott


All sounds good.. My best advice is to learn as much as you can before jumping
in... I did lots of research and my car is still sitting in the driveway...
Gonna rip those edelbrock rpm springs off the heads and machine the head on
mine...


Best of Luck!




T. H. Shires				81 C/S/B Rckt 350

Denton, Tx				    3 Sticks

					

mailto:TwoDogs@ou.edu		


<bold>University of Oklahoma

</bold><italic><color><param>ffff,0000,0000</param>Mechanical
Engineering

</color></italic>


"If it was put together, it can be taken apart."

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 22:41:13 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Anyone have a console FS?

Did you buy the thing from him or just look at it? did he give your money
back, if so?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: CRuper1@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Anyone have a console FS?
> Date: Tuesday, October 06, 1998 11:39 AM
>
> In a message dated 10/5/98 5:37:28 PM EST, hurstolds@xtalwind.net writes:
>
> << One small crack at the
>  side bottom he says, otherwise perfect.  Has console cover too.
>  WRONG.  No lid and was busted in about 3 pieces.  Fuming?  No.  Lied to?
>  Wasted my money?  Ya.  Don't EVER do business with this guy. Ryan
>  McKennna.  He wouldn't know a gray console if it fell on him.  I'd sure
>  hate to see what HE considers junk.  I just need the console upper
>  plastic section where the shift plate/ashtray and glovebox are.  Anyone
>  got one in decent shape?  i.e. no cracks?
>
>  Mike Rothe >>
>
> The name McKenna sounds familiar.  Is he/was he a list member at one
time?
> I'm just thinking it sounds real familiar...
>
> Chris Ruper

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 21:01:47 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild

At 10:23 PM 10/6/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
> At 10:53 PM 10/6/98 -0400, you wrote:
>
>
> I din't know they made gears for oldsmobiles..? Have you found a listing for
> em?


Milodon lists one for '76 and earlier olds engines.
It says no machining required and it fits under the stock timing cover.
PAW has them for  $299.95

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 00:05:35 EDT
From: GaryDW30@aol.com
Subject: Re: 442 Question - mirror

1969 442

Passenger side door mirror would have been an option.

I'm not sure, maybe someone else remembers better than I do, drivers side may
have been optional also.

I have the old "roll down the window to adjust type" on drivers side. No
mirror on passenger side.

Hope this helps.

Gary

1969 442 W30  4-speed    "Ol blue"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 23:55:29 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: under hood color

I have had good results
with Krylon and Varathane semi-gloss blacks.

Greg Beaulieu
___________

Funny you should mention that, Greg.  I just finished spraying the pulleys
and brackets off my 69 with semi-gloss Krylon black.  I'll reserve final
judgement until the paint is fully dry, but it appears to have just a hair
too much gloss as compared to the factory finish.  Just for info, I
sandblasted the worst parts and thoroughly degreased the rest, followed by
a generous wipe with laquer thinner.  I used Krylon's Rusty Metal primer
first, followed by two coats of the black (with the proper flash time in
between).  Don't get me wrong, this paint flows out great and is very easy
to use.  It looks great on the brackets, but I don't think it is correct
for a concourse restoration.

Speaking of which, you'll note that I've mightaswelled myself into
detailing the engine on this thing.  You are all familiar with the drill:
needed to change the water pump and timing chain, which requires the
removal of so much stuff that you just _can't_ put it all back on without a
proper cleaning...

I've already gone through a can of Fusick's bronze engine paint and a can
each of the Krylon primer and semi-gloss...  I've also talked myself into
rebuilding the power steering pump (hey, there was evidence of leakage from
the pump's front seal...)

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 23:33:23 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: re:oil pan

...'70 manual says to drop the tranny and jack
the engine both...

<snip long list of things to remove to get oil pan off of engine>
___________

Uh, having read that procedure in the service manual years ago, it always
seemed to me that it was easier to just pull the engine than to try to get
the pan off with the engine in the car.  Go back and re-read that list;
you're not much more than one motor mount and an hood removal away from
pulling the motor.  _PLUS_, if you pull the motor, the tranny stays in the
car.

Of course, in my case not pulling the motor would probably be a good thing,
as it would take me all of 47 seconds to mightaswell myself into a new
motor!  ;-)

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 23:28:50 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 442 Question

 Was a passenger door rear view mirror standard or an option on 1969
442s?  My car has the holes drilled on the outside passenger door but
the mirror is missing.  Any thoughts?

Flynt Myrick
___________

The passenger side mirror was an option on all 68s and 69s.  It was chrome
and looked like a mirror image of the non-remote control driver's side
mirror used in those years.  Fusick and others sell repros of these RH
mirrors for something like $75.  As for your car, if it had a factory RH
mirror, the holes will both be keyhole shaped.  If they are just round
drilled holes, someone has apparently added an aftermarket mirror to the
car at some time in the past.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 23:47:45 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Rally Pack -- definition wanted

The speedo were not the same in 68 for cars that had floor shifter
versuscolumn shifters.
__________

You're correct, Chris, but that is not related to whether or not the car
had a Rally Pac.  For example, you could order a column shift car with the
Rally Pac.  You would have gotten the same speedo as if you had not ordered
the Rally Pac.  That was my only point.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 00:23:52 -0400
From: Gasman24 <stulk@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild

Tracy H. Shires wrote:
>
> At 10:53 PM 10/6/98 -0400, you wrote:
> >Hi list members,
> > I'd like your input on this, I'm going to be re-building a '79 Olds
> 403
> >soon and I'm looking to get some good performance out of it.
> >Here's what I'm thinking about doing to it:
> >First get rid of my #4a heads and go with a set of #5 heads,
> >casting #397742.
> >Then I will use the Edelbrock Performer RPM cam and intake.
>
> Be wary of the performer rpm.., I'm still trying to sort out
> problems...
>
> >The block will be a stock rebuild, useing new parts if needed (like
> >pistons, con rods).
> >I would like to get a gear type drive insted of double roller timming
>
> >gear (just for the cool sound) is that a good idea?
>
> I din't know they made gears for oldsmobiles..? Have you found a
> listing for em?
>
> >Also will roller rockers work on the #5 heads? With out a lot of
> machine
> >work?
>
> Not a problem.. I have mondello's kit.. Came with arp studs, comp
> roller rockers, comp guide plates, and pushrods of undetermined length
> and orgin....
>
> > The trans in the car (by the way it's a '79 T/A) is a TH350, it's
> been
> >rebuilt with shift kit and a slight stall convter (something like
> 1200)
> >stock gears in the rear. Allthough I might change them later,
> something
> >like 3:73's.
>
> I have 3.73's in mine.. Screamed under the th-350.., had my best 1/8
> time with it.. Blew the clutches doing 75-80 at 5000 rpm though..,
> quickly went to an overdrive tranny..
> > Does any of this sound like a good idea?
> > Thanks for any input!
> > Scott
>
> All sounds good.. My best advice is to learn as much as you can before
> jumping in... I did lots of research and my car is still sitting in
> the driveway... Gonna rip those edelbrock rpm springs off the heads
> and machine the head on mine...
>
> Best of Luck!
>
> T. H. Shires 81 C/S/B Rckt 350
> Denton, Tx 3 Sticks
>
> mailto:TwoDogs@ou.edu
>
> University of Oklahoma
> Mechanical Engineering
>
> "If it was put together, it can be taken apart."

  Ok thanks for the info, but what do you mean by "rip thoes Edelbrock
RPM springs off and machine the heads?
 Is this a problem with the springs?
 What are you going to do to your heads?
 I'm not trying to sound like a smart a** I'm just trying to find out
what kind of prob's I need to address with the heads!
  This is my first rebuild I've ever done on any engine so forgive me if
I sound stupid!
    Thanks again,
          Scott

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 98 0:16:11 EDT
From: Glenn Connors <gpc442@buffnet.net>
Subject: Re: 442 Question

A
>  Was a passenger door rear view mirror standard or an option on 1969
>442s?  My car has the holes drilled on the outside passenger door but
>the mirror is missing.  Any thoughts?
>
>

    The passenger side mirror was an option on the '69 4-4-2...not standard
equipment.


  Glenn
  '69 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 00:28:39 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: G-Body Tail Light Questions:

1. Did the 79 and/or 80 Cutlass have a lit Rocket Emblem in them?

2. Was the red reflector in the reverse lights seen in all 1981-1983
versions until 1984?  Did it see action any other time?

3. What is the deal with the Grey Rocket emblems in certian tail lights,
and red in others?  Coinicidence, or limited to certain models?

4. Was the "antique" Olds emblem ever used in the tail lens?
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 00:31:56 -0400
From: Jerry Christopher <ithefunki@cchat.com>
Subject: G-Body Header Panel Questions:

1. What emblems were used on the hood?  And were they year specific?
I know my 87 has an "antique" logo, with a Rocket in the center of the
header.

2. "Black-out" trim - Was that an option on all models?  Was it year
specific?

3. When are the Amber and Clear style parking lens used?  Year Specific?
- --
                - Jerry Christopher -
IRC - EFNet:IThEFunKI - #SouthCarolina -#Olds - #Ford
       HTTP://Members.Viperlink.Net/IThEFunKI

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 00:46:21 -0400
From: Gasman24 <stulk@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild

Bob Blanchard wrote:
>
> At 10:23 PM 10/6/98 -0500, you wrote:
> >
> > At 10:53 PM 10/6/98 -0400, you wrote:
> >
> >
> > I din't know they made gears for oldsmobiles..? Have you found a listing 
for
> > em?
>
> Milodon lists one for '76 and earlier olds engines.
> It says no machining required and it fits under the stock timing cover.
> PAW has them for  $299.95


  As far as my '79 T/A with the Olds 403 I might stand corrected!
I'm not sure there is a gear drive for this engine, you see at one time
I was thinking of putting in a pont**c 400, guess that's where I got the
gear drive from, sorry to mis-lead anyone!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 00:24:32 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: A Body Quarter Drain Plug?

ON my 72 442 Conv't there is a plastic plug at the rear of the 1/4 panel on
the bottom inside. It is green in color and circle shaped. I will be
repainting the car shortly and was wondering what is this plug for and
should it be removed?


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 00:09:06 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild

>First get rid of my #4a heads and go with a set of #5 heads,
>casting #397742.

I think that this is a great idea.  However, I was just wondering if it
would be to your advantage to use the #4a's bigger intake valves.  Hmm, what
do you think.  I think that those 2" valves could be cut into the 403s
heads.  Igor.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/propane/th2004r)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 01:41:30 EDT
From: JJP442@aol.com
Subject: Re:  G-Body Tail Light Questions:

Jerry,
The 78 is the only "G" body with a lit rocket emblem in the center of the
chrome like frame work that completes the tail light.
The 81-83 tail lights do not have a rocket emblem, just thin plastic dividing
piece.
The 84-88 tail lights have rocket emblems glued to the center of the red
reflective part of the unit. I believe each year had a different variation of
the rocket emblem but they were all the same size.
All 81-83 tail lights were stamped "81" because there was no change in thier
design.(no need to alter the mold).
Same goes for the 84-88 tail lights, they were all stamped "84". The changes
to these tail lights were to the rocket emblem that was applied to the light
after the lights made.
Hope this answers your question.
John-Queens N.Y.
JJP442@aol.com
1983 H/O
1987 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 00:24:29 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Power Seat Pirating Trick

> 3) with buckets the easiest way to get the tracks and power system out is to
> cut the seat cushion and go in from the top, esp. if you just want the
> motor, drive cables and clutch system. 4)The motor/cable system is distinct,
> and easily removed,  from the seat tracks.

For those contemplating robbing power seats from junk cars, let me make one
suggestion.  Big pain in the a$$, but well worth the effort.  Carry along a 12V
battery and a couple jumper wires with alligator clips.  Hook the battery - 
post
to the body somewhere near the seats (or anywhere convenient) and hook the + to
the power feed wire of the power seats (or possibly back in factory battery
position, if enough parts are still attached...)  This will allow you to move
the seat foreward and back on its tracks, to get to the front and back bolts
~easily~.  Some you can't get to ~at all~ otherwise.  This saves you from
hacking through the cushions, and destroying the rest of the seat.  Plus save
you the explaining to the yard manager... "well, I just wanted the seat mounts,
and never realized the bottom of the seat was a solid metal plate.  So I left
you with a destroyed seat, since I can't get it out..."  (Yes, many mid 80's GM
seats have metal pans on the bottom)

Oh, and if the seat ~don't move~ under battery's power, then you probably don't
want ~that~ one anyway! ;)

This also helps with any door type parts chasing, where you might need to roll
down the window (or up) to get to some track bolts, motors, etc...)
- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 00:34:30 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: G-Body Tail Light Questions:

> 1. Did the 79 and/or 80 Cutlass have a lit Rocket Emblem in them?

Don't know...

> 2. Was the red reflector in the reverse lights seen in all 1981-1983
> versions until 1984?  Did it see action any other time?

81 to 83, reflector only.  84+ was all backup light.
I've seen ~some~ 84's with the reflector still...

From parts manual:
Black: 83 - 918762-1  (-1 indicating left-right part #s)
       84 - 920022-1
Chrome: 82-83 - 915156 (not indicated, but assume -5 would be the other
        84-85 - 918366-5
        86-88 - 5974350-49

Not sure what change happenned in 86, but they're allegedly different, too.
Most likely all are discontinued part numbers, but...

> 3. What is the deal with the Grey Rocket emblems in certian tail lights,
> and red in others?  Coinicidence, or limited to certain models?

Had never noticed.  Possible fading/loss of paint?  Don't know...

> 4. Was the "antique" Olds emblem ever used in the tail lens?
Oldsmagnet's batting 1000 tonight.  Can't answer that one either!  :(

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 00:44:14 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: G-Body Header Panel Questions:

> 1. What emblems were used on the hood?  And were they year specific?
> I know my 87 has an "antique" logo, with a Rocket in the center of the
> header.

This has changed periodically.  They usually break off and get changed, so I'm
not sure which would ~truly~ belong, ~but~...
The Rockit came with the stand-up "rocket" emblem, nothing in the header panel.
The H/Os all had glue-down plaques instead of the stand-ups, stating 
Hurst/Olds,
or Hurst/Olds 15th Anniversary...  My 82 and 83 also had the same stand up
Rocket emblem.  My coworker's 85 442 has the antique style standup on it, with
nothing in center.  It's been wrecked in the front, so I can't say what
originally came there.  The parts manual I have here covers 82-88 body panels,
and lists the ornament/panel as "order by application" so it's of no
assistance.  Although it shows the header panel emblem (in center, between
grilles) as the Rocket emblem with composite headlamps only (87 & 88)

> 2. "Black-out" trim - Was that an option on all models?  Was it year
> specific?

I ~think~ that was an 83 H/O ~only~.  Not sure, but I ~think~ all other 
blackout
treatments have been personally done.  It lists the back up light as black
available on 83 and 84.  Same with taillights.

> 3. When are the Amber and Clear style parking lens used?  Year Specific?

Think the amber started in 84.  85 anyway.  81-83 (possibly 84) were clear.  
All
were supposed to have the 1157NA style lamps in 'em, though, so they glowed
amber...  That often changed, though.

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 00:49:21 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: 83 Cutlass Delay Wipers

> Er, I'm not. IIRC, going to Low or High would bypass the
> delay circuitry altogether.

This one has a relay on the electronics circuit board that is corroded.  
Haven't
been able to get in more than that.  Hotwiring the motor itself ~does~ fire it
up, but hotwiring isn't much of a desired operation, with the hide-away
feature...

> (BTW, be careful to get the motor drive pin in the right place
> under the washer pump assembly or your intermittent setting will

Yeah, ~that~ can be a real pain in the @#$...  been there!

- --
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 01:55:28 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: H*LP NEEDED, WANTED (and BADLY)

Yes, it was the torque converter.  I was confused.

Igor, man...I got the oil pan out, and I didn't use a hoist.  I bought a
Chilton's manual today (I was trying to hold out for the money to buy GM
manuals, but oh hell), and I did what it said to do...which was exactly
what you said not to do.  Remove the fan shroud, remove the air cleaner
assembly, put a jack under the crank pulley, JACK JACK JACK and...it took a
while (and that motor is REALLY high up) but the oil pan is out.

ALL KINDS OF LITTLE METAL BITS IN THE OIL PAN - VERY DISHEARTENING.  I also
found quite a few washer looking things in the pan, they were real thin,
real small, and looked real important.  Oh well.  The pan is also currently
SPOTLESS, thank you, although I have to go to bed soon from breathing all
those fumes...also cleaned all of the parts that I took off, so pretty soon
I'm going to have a Beatles car ("...it's a clean machine...")...

You are, however, correct: pulling the motor would have been a hell of a
lot easier.  I didn't want to do this because I didn't want to take the
hood off (more work, also heard it's kind of easy to screw it up) and I
didn't want to disconnect everything (because that usually means you have
to put it back together again).  I guess I could have done with a hoist the
same thing that I did with the jack (lift without removal).  What really
sucks about this is as I was glancing, in a fume-induced haze, around my
back yard, my eyes wandered to the house behind me, and there...sitting in
the driveway...in the middle of the driveway...all by itself...IS A BRIGHT
RED ENGINE HOIST.  Life is toying with me.

Also in Chilton's...there's a section called "Rear Main Seal", and they
give you directions on how to replace this WITHOUT removing the engine.  Do
you think they're nuts, or is this just the really difficult way to do it,
or what?  I tell you what, if the leak is coming from somewhere BESIDES the
oil pan OR the valve covers (both of which are getting replaced), then
(according to you) the leak is from the intake manifold (in which case I'm
currently SOL, as removing that wasn't in the game plan) or the rear main
seal...IF you think I can replace the rear main seal NOW, before the oil
pan goes back on, NOW would be a good time to do it...Is this a one-piece
seal, or two?  If it's one piece, Chilton says I have to drop the tranny,
which is a big *AAAAIIIINNNGGGG THANK YOU DRIVE THRU!" to me...two pieces,
though, hmmm......

And what about that intake manifold?  I'm going to have to disconnect a
bunch of hoses and such in order to get the valve covers off anyway...is it
such a big deal to pull the manifold as well?  Or is this a really stupid
idea?

I know I have a big case of the MIGHTASWELLS.  Let me know what I should
(or shouldn't) do.

PS Hey Igor, is that bad ass '81 Delta of yours a 2-door or a 4?


At 04:42 PM 10/6/98 -0600, you wrote:
>>I CAN'T GET THE %$#^&*@ OIL PAN OUT!!!!!    Won't clear the frame on the
>bottom,
>>won't clear the..."balancer" on the transmission side (parts terminology is
>>extremely lacking here).
>
>You mean the torque converter (big round thing on the front of trans), the
>harmonic balancer is the round solid thing behind the main belt pully at the
>front.
>
>
>>HOIST I DO NOT WANT TO LIFT THE ENGINE I DO NOT WANT TO RENT A HOIST ETC
>>ETC ETC.
>
>
>Man, oh man.  From my experience on the '80s Delta, the ONLY way to get the
>pan out IS to either lift the motor, OR drop the trans.  It is harder to
>drop the trans.  I suppose if you could jack the motor far enough (don't
>even try this) you could pull the pan out.  However, the easiest way to do
>this is go NOW and rent the hoist and lift the DAMN thing out, or atleast
>raise it to the point where you can get the pan off.  I know, I know, I know
>that this is not the answer that you wanted, but if you figure another way,
>please tell me.  As far as major oil leak back there, I think that it is
>either the oil-pan, rear-main oil seal (ouch), valve covers or the intake
>manifold.  Probably the oil pan, then maybe the rear-main.  IF it is the
>rear-main, the crank has to come out, so the bottom end must be
>disassembled.  Although possible with the motor handing there on the hoist,
>if would be a whole lot easier to do it on the engine-stand.  But I guess,
>since the pan if off, you have no choice but to lift the motor, so then you
>can see (once the @!$% pan is out of your way).  Really, pulling the motor
>up is a whole lot easier since the motor mounts/starter/etc.. if off now.
>Igor.
>
>Igor Todorovic
>1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
>1981 Regency (307/propane/th2004r)
>1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)
>
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1535
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