Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1504


oldsmobile-digest    Thursday, September 24 1998    Volume 01 : Number 1504



Re: Event - Jefferson (WI) Car Show & Swap Meet
Re: Fwd: High Rev's and W's
RE: 67 Wiring Question/Heater Fan
Re: Fwd: Nearly constant squeal
Re: License plate choice
Power Windows
Re: Fwd: Nearly constant squeal
Re: He*p or H*lp
W-25 hood
Re: Fwd: Nearly constant squeal
Non-Olds: Rice Boyz!
Fw: engine offset
Re: White smoke
Re: Dual exhaust  VC
Re: Swapping Power Windows in a 66 Big Car (Long)
Vista Cruiser springs
Re: American Musclecar:Oldsmobile/Hurst 442 on Speedvision
Re: License plate choice
Sparky's Smoker
Engine 101
heater
67 cutlass for/sale in ad
EPA: Response to the 1965 dual cats (getting longer!)
RE:  5A Heads
Re: American Musclecar:Oldsmobile/Hurst 442 on Speedvision
Re: License plate choice
th200r4 in a 64 Cutlass
Re: www.epa.gov - emmissions
RE: 67 Wiring Question/Heater Fan
Re: heater
Re: Fwd: Nearly constant squeal
Vin decipher
Re: heater
converting to a smaller brake power booster.
Mr. Pinkstaff's emmissions stance
CA emmisions was: www.epa.gov - emmissions
Barbw problems and Octane and emissions
Re: Speedbleeder
Three Simple Questions
RE: Three Simple Questions
Re: White smoke
Re: ADMIN: Responding to UNBOUNCEd Posts

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 21:31:50 EDT
From: KASOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Event - Jefferson (WI) Car Show & Swap Meet

In a message dated 9/23/98 9:10:44 AM Central Daylight Time,
davepop@execpc.com writes:

<< >Hey everyone,
 >
 >Just a reminder that if you're in Central Wisconsin this
 >weekend to stop in and check out the Swap Meet and
 >car show at Jefferson, WI
 >
 >More info on the event can be found at:
 >http://www.cars-on-line.com/Jefferson.html
 >
 >They have 99 acres of cars and parts, and this year the
 >feature car is a '72 H/O Indy Pace Car.
 >
 >I'll be there with my black '87 442 in the car corral, so if
 >you see it (or me) say 'Hi'.
 >
 >Hope to see you there!
 >
 >-Mark Tupper     1987 442    (OCA 30666)
 > mtupper@palacenet.net     http://cyberglyphs.com/442/
 > >>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 21:38:32 -0400
From: Joe & Toni Artwell <tjf26@gte.net>
Subject: Re: Fwd: High Rev's and W's

I know I don't have a W-30 and the car is very low on
> options, but I do have the scooped hood.  The thing is... it's steel, not
> glass. I can't find any references to anything other than glass.  So where 
did
> this hood come from?  The previous owner claimed he spent $1400 incl. 
shipping
> to get it (used). What car did it come from?

	The factory hoods have a steel frame on them and the rest of the hood
is fiber glass. You might want to check and see if that is the case.
Look into the scoops, you should be able to tell if it is glass or not.
                              Joe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 18:42:53 -0700
From: "WI02 Rutschmann Brandon M. AO2" <BRutschm@vinson.navy.mil>
Subject: RE: 67 Wiring Question/Heater Fan

I had, still have, the same problem on my 71 cutlass.  I replaced the
relay and there is alsp a small fuze in one of the wires coming off
the relay, replaced that.  Still don't work so it is the switch.  If
your re;ay is good you should hear it click when you switch from the
next to the highest setting, to the high position. Brandon 71 Cutlass
Supreme

- -----Original Message-----
From:	JCutlass@aol.com [SMTP:JCutlass@aol.com]
Sent:	Tuesday, September 22, 1998 6:40 PM
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:	Re: 67 Wiring Question/Heater Fan

In a message dated 98-09-21 14:49:49 EDT, you write:

<< > My blower for the heater/ac will not work on high.  It works
fine
 > on the two lower setting.  So I decided to poke around under the
 > dash and found a orange wire that was not connected.  I searched
 > and could not find where (if anywhere) it should be.  Could this
 > be my problem >>

Best guess is to replace the relay on the firewall, little silver box
located
under the hood roughly inline with the speedometer. Same problem on my
 '68
Cutlass. Some question about whether or not the fan should run on low
at all
times.
Tim

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 21:35:39 -0400
From: Joe & Toni Artwell <tjf26@gte.net>
Subject: Re: Fwd: Nearly constant squeal

CPEARLPARK@aol.com wrote:
>
> Subject: Nearly constant squeal
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 20:09:17 EDT
> From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
> Experiencing this in my 71 4-4-2. 'Pretty sure it's wheel noise, but goes a
> way for a while after applying the brakes. Also seems to change as I turn the
> wheel, even slightly.  Wheel bearings??  Car is new to me and I'm a rookie
> mechanic.

	I had the exact same problem in my 71 442 two weeks ago with the exact
same symptoms. It was the outer wheel bearing. Replaced both bearings
and the races for $11.00 at Autopro
                            Joe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 21:56:06 EDT
From: DKlauber@aol.com
Subject: Re: License plate choice

Now is a good time to move here.  Not supposed to get over 100 degrees this
week, and should be even cooler in the weeks to come.  Good place to find rust
free SW Olds cars.  Saw an ad in auto trader that was sort of funny, someone
trying to sell a Vista Cruiser or trade it for a horse trailer!  I'm from
Boulder, CO, but my wife is in the USAF stationed at Luke AFB, so here I am.
David

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 19:22:55 -0700
From: "Bruce Camilli" <bcam@vel.net>
Subject: Power Windows

Hi,
I am a returnee to the group and I have a problem. My '75 Delta 88 is having
power window problems, deterioraion of the tracks, windows not level, etc. etc.
etc.. Does anyone know where parts can be picked up and/or a company in the
Southern California area that specializes in power window rebuilding. I
appreciate any help you people can give me. Bruce Camilli 1975 Olds Delta88
Royale Convertible 455ci

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 22:27:07 -0400
From: Jim Olson <jolson@remcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Fwd: Nearly constant squeal

My Malibu did the exact same thing. It was the squealer on the front
brake pads. Replace the front pads if it's got disc brkes. That is more
likely your problem.

Jim...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 21:45:15 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: He*p or H*lp

mark,
if I wanted to, I wasn't a happy camper at that time. lady asked me how was
the deer, I would had choked the little sweet sob had I had the option.
hope the deer had a good final moment, I did not!
Lou

- -------
> From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: He*p or H*lp
> Date: Wednesday, September 23, 1998 8:00 PM
>
> Lou,
>
> My condolences to your Olds.
> However, I was wondering, were you able to salvage the deer?
> Suicide by Oldsmobile. I suppose there are worse ways to go.
>
> Mark Hahn
> 75 Delta 88 Royale Conv.
> Cincinnati, Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 23:13:20 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: W-25 hood

One more about the W's. I know I don't have a W-30 and the car is very low
on
options, but I do have the scooped hood.  The thing is... it's steel, not
glass. I can't find any references to anything other than glass.  So where
did
this hood come from?  The previous owner claimed he spent $1400 incl.
shipping
to get it (used). What car did it come from??
_____________-

Perhaps the confusion here is that the factory 70-72 W-25 hoods (W-25 was
the Olds option code for the scooped hood on those cars - it was included
with the W-30 and W-31 packages but was available by itself on other
Cutlasses and 442s those years) were a two-piece design with a fiberglass
upper piece and a metal lower piece.  When you open the hood, the under
side will look like the underside of a stock metal hood, because it is
basically the same bottom piece.  The latches and hinges bolt up the same
way.  The upper surface may look like metal, but it really is fiberglass.
Look at the underside edges of the hood.  The on a factory hood the metal
underside panel will end about 1/2" from the side edge.  The fiberglass
upper panel is molded with a lip which hangs down.  This lip will be about
3/4" high and about 3/16" or 1/4" thick.  On an all-metal hood, both the
upper and lower panels will have this lip and they will be spot-welded
together.  The lip will thus be two thin (about 0.060" each) flanges
doubled up.  Note that while $1400 is a little high for an original W-25
hood, that price is not unheard of.  The going rate is closer to $900, give
or take a couple of hundred depending on condition.

If you really do have an all-metal version of the W-25 hood, this would be
a rare piece indeed, and likely worth considerably more than the $1400
price.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 23:21:50 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Fwd: Nearly constant squeal

Experiencing this in my 71 4-4-2. 'Pretty sure it's wheel noise, but goes a
way for a while after applying the brakes. Also seems to change as I turn
the
wheel, even slightly.  Wheel bearings??  Car is new to me and I'm a rookie
mechanic.
___________

Wheel bearings are certainly a possibility, but the fact that the squeal
changes when the brakes are applied indicates that it is probably something
to do with the brake pads.  Is the car a disc brake car?  If so, and if you
have metallic pads on the front brakes, chances are that this is the
typical metallic pad squeal.  These pads should be installed with an
insulator on the backside (either a spray-on or squeeze-on liquid) which
prevents direct metal-to-metal contact between the pad's backing plate and
the caliper, as these metallic pads tend to "chatter", which will cause
this squeal if metal-to-metal contact exists.

A more serious situation may occur, however.  Most GM brake pads today have
a built-in wear indicator, which is basically a metal "finger" which
extends from the side of the pad and is designed to contact the rotor when
the pads get too thin.  When this finger contacts the rotor, it will make a
squealing noise.  Normally, this finger would only contact the rotor when
the brakes are applied, however the pads often will become cocked in the
caliper, possibly causing the finger to contact the rotor when the brakes
are not applied.  In fact, I've seen cases where the application of the
brakes will cause the pad to straighten out and the squeal will stop (just
the opposite of what you'd expect).  If it _is_ the wear indicator, the
squeal will become more pronounced and occur with greater frequency.  At
that point, it's time to replace the pads.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 23:39:44 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Non-Olds: Rice Boyz!

List, check out this link!  Very funny...all too familiar as we drive our 
Oldses
(read: real cars) around town...

http://www.billdeebs.pair.com/edit2.htm

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 00:04:05 -0500
From: "Poppy30" <Poppy30@email.msn.com>
Subject: Fw: engine offset

- -----Original Message-----
From: Poppy30 <Poppy30@email.msn.com>
To: padavano.joe@orbital.com <padavano.joe@orbital.com>
Cc: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, September 17, 1998 9:46 PM
Subject: engine offset


>I HAVE A 71 SUPREME 350 ENG & TRANS. I HAVE MEASURED THE ENGINE BAY & FOUND
>THE ENGINE OFFSET 1 INCH FROM CENTER TO THE RIGHT. THE FAN SHROUD IS ALSO
>SLOTTED, AND MINE IS SLID ALL THE WAY TO THE RIGHT. I TALKED TO MONDELLO
AND
>ALL THE TOP HEADER MANUFACTURERS AND THEY ALL CONFIRMED THE OFFSET.NO ONE
>KNOWS WHY GM DID THIS ONLY ON SUPREMES.MONDELLO SAID THE CAR FRAME, CHASIS,
>BODY ETC... ARE THE SAME ON ALL MODELS,THEY JUST INSTALLED THE ENGINE 1
INCH
>TO THE RIGHT. HEADER MANUFACTURERS DO NOT MAKE HEADERS TO FIT ONLY ONE
>SPECIFIC MODEL BECAUSE IT IS NOT COST EFFECTIVE, SO THEY TOLD ME. BECAUSE
>THE CROSS MEMBER THE ENGINE SITS ON IS NOT FLAT,SIMPLY MOVING THE  ENGINE
>LEFT WOULD CAUSE IT TO TILT ONE WAY. THATS WHY I FIGURED THE METAL FRAME
>BRACKETS THE MOUNTS SIT ON MUST BE DIFFERENT..... SHORTER FOR THE LEFT,
>TALLER FOR THE RIGHT, TO KEEP THE ENGINE LEVEL. WHAT I NEED IS FOR SOMEONE
>WITH A 71 442,455 TO MEASURE THEIR ENGINE LOCATION FOR ME... WHICH HOLES IN
>THE CROSSMEMBER THE MOUNT BRACKETS ARE BOLTED IN, THE HEIGHT OF THE LEFT &
>RIGHT BRACKETS,DISTANCE BETWEEN THE BRACKETS ETC.... AS MUCH INFO AS
>POSSIBLE TO HELP ME GET THE 455 IN ON CENTERSO I CAN GET THE BIG HEADERS TO
>FIT. I DO NOT WANT TO ARGUE OVER THE FACT THE ENGINE IS OFFSET, I KNOW IT
TO
>BE TRUE,OR WHY OLDS DID IT,I JUST NEED HELP GETTING THE ENGINE BACK TO
>CENTER AS EASSILY AS POSSIBLE. I AM A SERVICE TECH AT A GENERAL REPAIR
>SHOP&WILL GET THE ENGINE CENTERED, JUST WANT TO MAKE IT AS SIMPLE AS
>POSSIBLE.ANY HELP OR INFO WOULD BE APPRECIATED.POPPY30@MSN.COM
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 22:37:34 -0600
From: "Igor T. '81 455DRB" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: White smoke

With my 455 (10.1:1CR pistons, mid 9s true compression) when I first fire it
up with supreeme fuel it will drip and the dripping will go away, but last
time I put 1/2 regular and 1/2 mid-grade fuel.  The car seems to run okay
with a little rougher idle, but at cold start up you can get a shower out of
the tailpipes when you hit the throtle.  When it warms up (after 5 minutes),
then you will see a little water out the pipes but, man, when it is cold it
is nuts.  I am running only premium fuel from now on.  Igor.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/200r4/propane)
1981 Doge Maxivan (360/727/4.10s)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gary J. Couse: Cutlass IROC-SS <gjcouse@francomm.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, September 23, 1998 6:15 AM
Subject: RE: White smoke


>
>
>----Regards,
>
>Gary J. Couse
>Couse Custom
>
>gjcouse@francomm.com <mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com>
>
>"Quincy" = 1986 Custom Cutlass IROC-SS
>
><Snip>
>
><>And water out of the tailpipe on startup is ok, most of the time,
><>as long as
><>it doesn't continue after teh car has been warmed up a while. Weird
><>symptoms....Dorian
>
>
>Correct me if wrong but isn't H2O a minute by-product of combustion? While
I
>don't mean a constant (somewhat atomized) spray that coats the hand surface
>when testing tailpipe exhaust, but rather an occasional tailpipe drip?
>
>Gary...
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 21:52:45 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Dual exhaust  VC

I lucked into a new(er) dual exhaust set up off my parts wagon.  Stock dual
exhaust systems on VC's exit behind the rear tires out the side just as my
single exhaust VC's system does.

When I put a new system on my '67 convert, I just went to a good muffler
shop and told them how I wanted the system run, and they did it for a not
unreasonable price.




Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible,  '72
Vista Cruiser, '80 GMC

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 22:02:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lloyd Ferguson <ferguson@1stnetusa.com>
Subject: Re: Swapping Power Windows in a 66 Big Car (Long)

Chris,

Very good article, certainly it will go in my keeper file.

I was wondering about the cuts you refered to in the driver's side door
harnesses.  I have seen these same cuts in almost every car I have had the
displeasure of trying to service the door wiring.  I thought they purposely
removed only the insulation of the wire about 3/4 of the way around to
either make the wires less prone to breaking or to make the bundle bend in
a predetermined place without bunching up.  I have fixed several of them
(on cars with many miles and/or years) with solder / heatshrink or butt
splices and have never been happy with the way the harness flexed
afterwards.  They are always a pain to splice because I have never seen one
with any slack that could be pulled from either side to make it easier.

I don't think I have ever taken a passenger or rear door harness apart so I
dont know if they do similar things there.  Maybe it is not needed because
either there are far fewer wires in the other doors or they are not opened
nearly as often as the driver's (probably the reason I have to replace the
hinge busings in my driver's door but the passenger's is perfect).







Lloyd Ferguson
ferguson@1stnetusa.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 22:16:22 +0000
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@efortress.com>
Subject: Vista Cruiser springs

Do VC's use the same coil springs as a cutlass of the same year?
I'm only worried about physical size not load capacity
(I have coil-over shocks in the rear).

I have found 2-3" lift rear springs for a '66 cutlass and need to know if
they
will fit the Vista cruiser. Some times she will scrape the exhaust/rear
bumper
one steep parking lot ramps and such.

___
Remember, Traffic lights timed for traffic moving at 35,
are also timed for traffic moving at 70. :)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 21:56:29 -0700
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: American Musclecar:Oldsmobile/Hurst 442 on Speedvision

I shall be running the VCR so will let you know if a copy is worth the
effort if so itll only cost ya a video tape...kk
- -----Original Message-----
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com <HURSTOLDZ@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, September 23, 1998 1:47 PM
Subject: Re: American Musclecar:Oldsmobile/Hurst 442 on Speedvision


>Hello!
>
>I do not get speedvision where I live,   will anyone be running their
VCR???
>
>I would like a copy of the show if possible.
>
>
>Thanks
>
>Vinny
>62 Starfire
>68 Hurst/Olds

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 01:42:56 -0400
From: "Johnny Gage" <bladernr@roava.net>
Subject: Re: License plate choice

VA is a little better thant most, appearantly.  My plates cose somehting
like 35.00 to get the personalized plates (one time fee as long as I keep
the same plates) and the normal 35.00 a year reg. fee.

By the way, my plates say OLDS 425...
- -----Original Message-----
From: John Gill <jgill@idmi.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, September 23, 1998 8:49 PM
Subject: Re: License plate choice


>I currently run "OLDS W30" on my plates.  I hate the idea of paying nearly
>$75 per year for plates on a car that I drive less than 1000 miles per
>year.  My birthday is next June and I will convert to historical plates
>which are considerably cheaper.
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 01:21:52 -0700
From: Greg Kalkhoff <gkalkhof@mail.execpc.com>
Subject: Sparky's Smoker

All,

Ok....drum roll...here's what we needed to know and more. Which only brings up
more questions too. ):

Results of compression test:

Cyl #   psi   (engine nomencalture as far as cylinder #'s go))
- ----    ---
1       165
2       170
3       170
4       190*
5       160
6       160
7        50/then 175/then 50/then 170  (never got it to settle down)
8       170

*AND, #4 cylinder had a broken stand!! It was broke in two places and came out
in three pieces.

No obvious overwear on any parts however. Inside of heads were clean as a
whistle, but had a really wierd smell in there  But, I've been told that's
normal.

Two things to note:

1. ALL the pistons were literally wet with oil. The plugs looked like crap. 
Oily
and carboned up. Plug # 7 looked like it was lacquered. Very shinny and hard
coating on it. Almost had a red/orange hue to it. This one was dry too (no 
oil).
Now, keep in mind, these plugs only have 5-8 K miles on them. They were new 2
years ago.

1. So I decide to take two valve springs out. I started at #7. I whip out my 
new
handy dandy cylinder compression fitting, fire up the air compressor and let it
eat (regulator set at 85 lbs and 125 in the tank). I can't keep the cylinder
under compression at all!! The air is rushing out the push rod holes (both
sides) faster than the compressor can make air. I KNOW I will drop a valve if I
take out the springs. Meanwhile, the pressure at the regulator shows only 25
lbs and can't catch up any faster than that.

What's up with that? Sounds like the valves are stuck open! So, I take a long
steel straight-edge and line it up on the tops of all the valve stems. Low and
behold, valves for #7 were the only two low ones on that bank. I'd say the
thickness of a match book cover.

I did a number of other cylinders and they all held air much better. At least
enough that the compressor could catch up and turn off and rest occasionally.
The #4 cylinder (the one that checked at 190 lbs and had the broken stand),
didn't leak a drop!

So, what am I in for here now, a valve job? Is there a way I can free up those
sticky valves enough to keep compression and put the new springs on? Ever
better, should I even go that route?

I tapped on the valve stems with a brass drift/hammer and pushed the springs
down with my palm a hundred times trying to get the crud off them stem to no
avail. For some reason, they just won't seat evidently! Perhaps the valve seats
are cruddy?!?!?

I already ordred EVERYthing to do the spring job, replete with rockers, stands,
and push rods...blah blah blah... But, if I can't pressurize the #7 cylinder,
I'm dead in the water.

As usual, I appreciate everyones help and feedback. Previous feedback was very
helpful as I recieved LOTS of support, info,  and well wishes from the Olds and
Toro Lists. For you Olds Listers, please remember to answer to me privately, as
I am not currently on the that list.

More info coming in.....I will forward to the List's as they come in.....

What should I do next?

Hey! I managed not to use the word Hel@ this time and do the e-mail superball!
(;

Sparky

- --
Greg "Sparky" Kalkhoff                          See the Sparkmobile
Toronado Chapter Webmaster                http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html
Toronado FAQ Page Administrator
http://www.Toronado.org

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 01:33:52 -0700
From: Greg Kalkhoff <gkalkhof@mail.execpc.com>
Subject: Engine 101

Engine God's,

As I sit here, in the shadow of Boss Kettering, trying to figure out my dilema,
I cannot help but ask this question.

What would cause ALL cylinders to be oil infused? Like I described, the spark
plugs looked like they came out a of a 40 year old Briggs and Stratton
Lawnmower.

What, on the top end, would be common to all eight that, if failed, would
excessively oil all the cylinders at one time?

I can't see a bottom failure THAT disasterous to effect all buckets at once. 8
rings failing at once? Sounds preposterous, doesn't it???? Besides, the
compression test bears that out.

Up until this debacle, the car used "ZERO" oil every 1500-2000 miles between
changes!!!

I know now, it needs a valve job, but that, in and of istelf, does not
necissarily explain my oil consumption and fouled plugs in 7 out of 8 cylinders
in a mere 30 mile drive. The one plug that was clean, yet shiney and orange,
was probably due to exhaust gases relative to the bad exhaust valve on that
individual can.

Am I thinking too much or what? (perhaps NOT thinking correctly may be a better
phrase). ):

Head Scratching to the Max!
- --
Greg "Sparky" Kalkhoff                               See the Sparkmobile
Toronado Chapter Webmaster                     
http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html
Toronado FAQ Page Administrator
http://www.Toronado.org

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 02:32:12 -0400
From: Todd Williams <todd@wvadventures.net>
Subject: heater

its startin to get cold and i need my heater in my 72 cutlass supreme fixed
i do have a heater core in place and not sure but i think i have the blower
motor too found this blower motor today its under the right side finder and
isnt hooked up but found where the wires hook up at..but im missing the box
that goes on the firewall it used to have ac but im not going to be putting
it back on so if anyone can help me keep warm this winter id love your help
! ? :)


Todd (todd@wvadventures.net)
72 cutlass supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 02:54:09 -0400
From: Todd Williams <todd@wvadventures.net>
Subject: 67 cutlass for/sale in ad

hey guys just saw in the paper tonight 67 cutlass conv. says blue on blue
with super great body and 350 motor $4500

if someone wants more info let me know and i could scan the ad in the paper
and send it to you

btw ,im in parkersburg,west virginia and it was a local ad

Todd (todd@wvadventures.net)
72 cutlass supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 06:35:32 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: EPA: Response to the 1965 dual cats (getting longer!)

- --------------D318820F92741F3C784A92F1
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

What I would like to see is the laws written better.

"On the other hand, back pressure can affect emissions, and a decrease
in
back pressure would normally be expected to increase tail-pipe
emissions,
particularly oxides of nitrogen"

(READ HIGH CYL PRESSURE!! EGR NEEDS TO WORK AT THE PROPER TIME!!!)
" and hydrocarbons "
(LEAN MIXTURE!!!! RICHEN IT!!)

..."    The addition of a second
catalytic converter as part of a dual exhaust system would not
necessarily
reduce the exhaust emissions output of a vehicle which originally came
with
one.  In fact, reducing the flow to each converter of a dual system
could
actually extend the time necessary for the converter to light-off (warm
up and
start operating) thereby causing much higher cold start emissions.  Cold
start
operation is the period during operation when the highest emissions
normally
occur. "

Okay, you got me, run dual cats and keep EFE in place, don't run it too
rich, get off Choke within 3 minutes Max, run the cats as close to the
manifolds as possible, this is one reason headers have a hard time, they
place the cat so far away it does not get up to 600+ degrees fast enough
to start functioning during warmup.


"CAN AFFECT EMISSIONS"  NOT  "WILL AFFECT EMISSIONS".  If the car can be
tested and proven to pass with the mods that the owner has done, then I
think it should be allowed.  Heck, removing the Thermac Air Cleaner
(TAC) will increase the cold start up emissions, so adding dual cat is
probably just as bad.

REASON:  When you open up the exhaust, you change the metering signal
seen at the carb, it tends to run leaner, so you must richen it up to
maintain proper mixture.  (Jet/Rods)  A competent tuner can open up the
exhaust and then retune and then make the car potentially have better
emissions than when the car was certified by the EPA.  And you may need
to monitor how the EGR is, if it is a Neg or Pos backpressure type, you
may need to go to a Port type.  Or tweak WHEN the EGR applies.

I would like to see what emissions certifications the Feds make the auto
manufacturers go through, and possibly have a program that one would be
able to make mods and when he feels up to it, take the emissions cert
and see if his/her car passes and if so, then be allowed to stay that
way, legally.  Probably have to be state run.

My 80 Turbo T/A had the cat removed years ago and I passed emissions
with flying colors.  Turbocharged V8 301.  EGR still connected (good for
helping fight detonation under moderate load with boost but that is not
tested during an emissions test unless it is IM 240), AIR connected,
(later disconnected when pump froze) and timing increased via base
timing and recurve kit.  I have not emissions tested my 85 Cutlass with
the 77 350 and CCC with no cat and 2.5in duals after where the cat had
been, but I think I might just to see, I live in an area with no
emissions testing.  I have the AIR removed and the Cat removed.  They
will find their way back on, but I need some 5A heads (anyone got a pair
to donate??) with AIR provisions.  Some devices are installed, but not
listed on the required emissions code on the emissions label.  My 301
needed EGR and Cat, but not AIR, even though it was installed.  No CA
emissions were ever designed for the 301 Turbo.  The SloBloc 305 was
installed in CA for 80-81.  Bummer...Slowest Trans AM ever made!

I don't have a problem with meeting emissions, but I do when they say it
has to be their way or nothing.  A guy who is/was a senior emissions
inspector in CA had a 1968 Pontiac Firebird, 455, with dual cats, LONG
duration cam, check valves in the exhaust to allow air in to the
collector, and ran a low 11 1/4mi passed emissions requirements for 1986
or better.  But, in CA it was classed a fail because Cats did not come
on the car originally, PCV was the only device he could have.  CA law is
really bizarre on that sort of thing.  Heck, in CA if you have a 85
Cutlass with a 307, you cannot swap in a 98 LS1 with all the emissions
working perfect, but you CAN swap in a 403 as long as all the 307
emissions hardware are on it working properly.  Go figure!  (Then again,
I would RATHER have a 403 than an LS1 in a 85 Cutlass!!!)  You can only
swap from the same engine family.  Hmmm, 455 is too......  Cam profiles
need to limit overlap for good emissions too, if too much overlap, too
much raw fuel gets out into the exhaust before the exhaust valve
closes.  But...A.I.R. helps that!  But too much is still too much, and
CO gets too high.  Need something like an O2 Sensor in the exhaust like
from Edelbrock or Mallory that tells you what your A/F is while you are
driving.  The Buick GN site has a schematic on how to make one if you
are ambitious.

Most people hose up emissions when they make changes, not compensating
for it, it can be tedious, but you can get you emissions in line and not
lose power.  You need to tune idle, under load, cruise, (WOT is not
tested!!) and get the choke off ASAP when in cold start mode.  Remember,
it is FAR easier to meet emissions then make good mileage.  The factory
has a hard job to do making CAFE (Corp Average Fuel Economy) and
emissions.  They conflict with each other.  Emissions needs 14.7:1 A/F
mix, and best economy needs 15.5:1 or so, which makes NOx and HC too
high.  Most people would sacrifice mileage for more power, but emissions
can be met far easier.  With the CCC cars, The computer can compensate
for any metering change requirements.  Eventually I will drop a 455 in
my Cutlass, and keep the CCC carb on it, and full computer
functionality.

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac


- --------------D318820F92741F3C784A92F1
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML>
What I would like to see is the laws written better.
<P>"On the other hand, back pressure can affect emissions, and a decrease
in
<BR>back pressure would normally be expected to increase tail-pipe emissions,
<BR>particularly oxides of nitrogen"
<P>(READ HIGH CYL PRESSURE!! EGR NEEDS TO WORK AT THE PROPER TIME!!!)
<BR>" and hydrocarbons "
<BR>(LEAN MIXTURE!!!! RICHEN IT!!)
<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb
s
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp
;
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&
n
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb
s
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp
;
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ..."&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; The addition of a second 
<BR>catalytic
converter as part of a dual exhaust system would not necessarily <BR>reduce the
exhaust emissions output of a vehicle which originally came with 
<BR>one.&nbsp;
In fact, reducing the flow to each converter of a dual system could 
<BR>actually
extend the time necessary for the converter to light-off (warm up and <BR>start
operating) thereby causing much higher cold start emissions.&nbsp; Cold start
<BR>operation is the period during operation when the highest emissions 
normally
<BR>occur. " <P>Okay, you got me, run dual cats and keep EFE in place, don't 
run
it too rich, get off Choke within 3 minutes Max, run the cats as close to the
manifolds as possible, this is one reason headers have a hard time, they place
the cat so far away it does not get up to 600+ degrees fast enough to start
functioning during warmup. <BR>&nbsp; <P>"CAN AFFECT EMISSIONS"&nbsp; NOT&nbsp;
"WILL AFFECT EMISSIONS".&nbsp; If the car can be tested and proven to pass with
the mods that the owner has done, then I think it should be allowed.&nbsp; 
Heck,
removing the Thermac Air Cleaner (TAC) will increase the cold start up
emissions, so adding dual cat is probably just as bad. <P>REASON:&nbsp; When 
you
open up the exhaust, you change the metering signal seen at the carb, it tends
to run leaner, so you must richen it up to maintain proper mixture.&nbsp;
(Jet/Rods)&nbsp; A competent tuner can open up the exhaust and then retune and
then make the car potentially have better emissions than when the car was
certified by the EPA.&nbsp; And you may need to monitor how the EGR is, if it 
is
a Neg or Pos backpressure type, you may need to go to a Port type.&nbsp; Or
tweak WHEN the EGR applies. <P>I would like to see what emissions 
certifications
the Feds make the auto manufacturers go through, and possibly have a program
that one would be able to make mods and when he feels up to it, take the
emissions cert and see if his/her car passes and if so, then be allowed to stay
that way, legally.&nbsp; Probably have to be state run. <P>My 80 Turbo T/A had
the cat removed years ago and I passed emissions with flying colors.&nbsp;
Turbocharged V8 301.&nbsp; EGR still connected (good for helping fight
detonation under moderate load with boost but that is not tested during an
emissions test unless it is IM 240), AIR connected, (later disconnected when
pump froze) and timing increased via base timing and recurve kit.&nbsp; I have
not emissions tested my 85 Cutlass with the 77 350 and CCC with no cat and 
2.5in
duals after where the cat had been, but I think I might just to see, I live in
an area with no emissions testing.&nbsp; I have the AIR removed and the Cat
removed.&nbsp; They will find their way back on, but I need some 5A heads
(anyone got a pair to donate??) with AIR provisions.&nbsp; Some devices are
installed, but not listed on the required emissions code on the emissions
label.&nbsp; My 301 needed EGR and Cat, but not AIR, even though it was
installed.&nbsp; No CA emissions were ever designed for the 301 Turbo.&nbsp; 
The
SloBloc 305 was installed in CA for 80-81.&nbsp; Bummer...Slowest Trans AM ever
made! <P>I don't have a problem with meeting emissions, but I do when they say
it has to be their way or nothing.&nbsp; A guy who is/was a senior emissions
inspector in CA had a 1968 Pontiac Firebird, 455, with dual cats, LONG 
duration
cam, check valves in the exhaust to allow air in to the collector, and ran a 
low
11 1/4mi passed emissions requirements for 1986 or better.&nbsp; But, in CA it
was classed a fail because Cats did not come on the car originally, PCV was the
only device he could have.&nbsp; CA law is really bizarre on that sort of
thing.&nbsp; Heck, in CA if you have a 85 Cutlass with a 307, you cannot swap 
in
a 98 LS1 with all the emissions working perfect, but you CAN swap in a 403 as
long as all the 307 emissions hardware are on it working properly.&nbsp; Go
figure!&nbsp; (Then again, I would RATHER have a 403 than an LS1 in a 85
Cutlass!!!)&nbsp; You can only swap from the same engine family.&nbsp; Hmmm, 
455
is too......&nbsp; Cam profiles need to limit overlap for good emissions too, 
if
too much overlap, too much raw fuel gets out into the exhaust before the 
exhaust
valve closes.&nbsp; But...A.I.R. helps that!&nbsp; But too much is still too
much, and CO gets too high.&nbsp; Need something like an O2 Sensor in the
exhaust like from Edelbrock or Mallory that tells you what your A/F is while 
you
are driving.&nbsp; The Buick GN site has a schematic on how to make one if you
are ambitious. <P>Most people hose up emissions when they make changes, not
compensating for it, it can be tedious, but you can get you emissions in line
and not lose power.&nbsp; You need to tune idle, under load, cruise, (WOT is 
not
tested!!) and get the choke off ASAP when in cold start mode.&nbsp; Remember, 
it
is FAR easier to meet emissions then make good mileage.&nbsp; The factory has a
hard job to do making CAFE (Corp Average Fuel Economy) and emissions.&nbsp; 
They
conflict with each other.&nbsp; Emissions needs 14.7:1 A/F mix, and best 
economy
needs 15.5:1 or so, which makes NOx and HC too high.&nbsp; Most people would
sacrifice mileage for more power, but emissions can be met far easier.&nbsp;
With the CCC cars, The computer can compensate for any metering change
requirements.&nbsp; Eventually I will drop a 455 in my Cutlass, and keep the 
CCC
carb on it, and full computer functionality. <P>Thomas Martin <BR>85 Cutlass
Supreme Rocket 350 CCC <BR>91 Bonneville LE 3800 <BR>80 Turbo Trans AM 400
Pontiac <BR>&nbsp;</HTML>

- --------------D318820F92741F3C784A92F1--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 06:46:32 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE:  5A Heads

- --------------1B69F3AA045A05FAC0B54518
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

The 5A heads have HUGE ports as compared to the 6A and 7A.  Think of it
this way, the 7A port is square.  Ok, same width as a normal Olds intake
port, but only the width is also the height.  Do not mix and match
intakes or heads.  Use the 6A and 7A intake on 6A and 7A heads, and
everything one everything else.  Look at manifolds too, if they are
Tubular Steel (when you see them you will know, they are not cast iron
and do not look it) they do not port match to 5A and older heads.

I have done a 77 350 into a 85 Cutlass with a "Y" 7A headed 307.  Email
me off-line and we can go over it.

Thomas Martin
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac


- --------------1B69F3AA045A05FAC0B54518
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML>
The 5A heads have HUGE ports as compared to the 6A and 7A.&nbsp; Think
of it this way, the 7A port is square.&nbsp; Ok, same width as a normal
Olds intake port, but only the width is also the height.&nbsp; Do not mix
and match intakes or heads.&nbsp; Use the 6A and 7A intake on 6A and 7A
heads, and everything one everything else.&nbsp; Look at manifolds too,
if they are Tubular Steel (when you see them you will know, they are not
cast iron and do not look it) they do not port match to 5A and older heads.
<P>I have done a 77 350 into a 85 Cutlass with a "Y" 7A headed 307.&nbsp;
Email me off-line and we can go over it.
<P>Thomas Martin
<BR>85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
<BR>91 Bonneville LE 3800
<BR>80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac
<BR>&nbsp;</HTML>

- --------------1B69F3AA045A05FAC0B54518--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 08:13:49 EDT
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: American Musclecar:Oldsmobile/Hurst 442 on Speedvision

Hey Kerry!!!

Thanks man!!!!!!


Vinny
62 Starfire
68 Hurst/Olds

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 08:36:12 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: License plate choice

In a message dated 98-09-22 07:50:14 EDT, you write:

<<  only checked on 2, but both were available.  OLDSW30 is open, and W30 has
 not been registered since 1996 and she said I could get it.   >>

Get another Olds and take 'em both!
Bruce
75 Delta Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 08:41:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: Doug Ahern <doug@mail.RATH.PeachNet.EDU>
Subject: th200r4 in a 64 Cutlass

this is my first post after being gone for a while...

My local junkyard has a th200r4 out of a mid eighties (pre 87) rwd v8
cadillac.   I want to install it place of the th350 in my 64 Olds. Has
anyone else done this?   here are considerations that I'm basing this
installation on,  if any of them are incorrect please point them out to me
before I start pulling transmissions!

1. th200r4 is the same length as a th350 bellhousing to tailshaft.  Only
the rear tranny mount is different and this will require me moving the
cross member rearward.
2. the shift linkage mounts up the same way with a mechanical lever in the
same location as the one on the th350.
3. my stock 64 driveshaft will require no modifications.  the spline and
diameter in exactly the same on th350's and th300r4's.
4.  flywheel and converter will bolt up.
4.  I need the throttle cable from the th200r4, I plan on getting the
manifold throttle cable bracket from the caddy, or some other mid eighties
GM v8 with a carb.

what about trans cooler lines?  I can fabricate lines if needed.
what torque converters?  what are my options?

additional notes: my olds has a stock 330 v8,  my th350 is about to come
apart...

can anyone think of any other problems, things I need to investigate?
etc?

thanks,
Doug

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 08:54:04 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: www.epa.gov - emmissions

In a message dated 98-09-22 12:22:43 EDT, you write:

<<    A coworker of mine who runs a nitrous Corvette (so what, right?) passed
some
 interesting info on to me.  He told me someone in the Corvette club he was
 involved in when he was in California said (read: third-hand info) that new
 federal standards were coming out that exempted 1975 cars and older from
emissions >>

Seems to me they would mean 1974 cars since the '75 were the first year of cat
converters. Just an uneducated guess.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 06:32:57 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: 67 Wiring Question/Heater Fan

> I had, still have, the same problem on my 71 cutlass.  I replaced
> the relay and there is alsp a small fuze in one of the wires coming
> off the relay, replaced that.  Still don't work so it is the switch.
> If your relay is good you should hear it click when you switch from
> the next to the highest setting, to the high position.

At the risk of beating this subject to death... if the relay does
click but the fan does not operate on High, trace back the fat
red wire from the relay back towards the engine until you find the
%$#& in-line connector which connects two or three wires together,
and see if the connector has partially melted inside. If so, you
may need to bypass the connector with a new jumper wire to get the
fan running on High. This is true for mid-'70's GM and up, although
I don't know how far back into the '60's this wiring harness design
will be found.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 06:40:46 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: heater

> I do have a heater core in place and not sure but i think i have
> the blower motor too found this blower motor today its under the
> right side fender and isnt hooked up

Yup, that's the blower motor...

> but found where the wires hook up at... but I'm missing the box
> that goes on the firewall

Um, how many wires did you find? IIRC, the purple goes to the
blower motor terminal and the black one is the ground. The missing
"box" (is that what the manual calls the plenum chamber?) holds
the resistor pack; if you have a dangling three- or four-wire
plug, possibly connected to a set of resistor springs, that's
your fan speed control that's supposed to go in the ductwork
there, which may be the piece you're missing.

> It used to have ac but im not going to be putting
> it back on so if anyone can help me keep warm this winter I'd
> love your help

I think your best bet would be to compare with an intact car
for starters and figure out how many pieces you're missing.
Any vaguely-similar Cutlass/Skylark/Malibu/LeMans will have
the same hardware under the hood for reference, and I think
you can cannibalize from any of those models for the basic
pieces that you're missing. Good luck.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 06:47:01 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fwd: Nearly constant squeal

> Experiencing this in my 71 4-4-2. 'Pretty sure it's wheel noise,
> but goes away for a while after applying the brakes.

Classic case of disc brake pad squealers doing what they're
supposed to do: warn you that your pads are due for replacement,
before you get to the point where the rivets are scoring the
rotors. The squealers stop whenever you apply the brakes. (If
the noise stops by itself one day, that means the squealers have
now broken off and you are _really_ due for service. :-) Get the
front pads replaced and that should do it.

If you want a second opinion, a gas station mechanic can most
likely diagnose it for you just by hearing you drive in.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 09:56:24 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Vin decipher

Saw a '71 Delta Conv. for sale in New Jersey that has been garaged for ten
years. It's in great shape and I am thinking of  buying it. The owner says it
has a 455. I know the vin would tell me this. If someone could decipher,  I
would be most appreciative. The # is  3N67U2M533910.
tia
Bruce
75 Delta 88 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 09:56:17 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: heater

its startin to get cold and i need my heater in my 72 cutlass supreme fixed
i do have a heater core in place and not sure but i think i have the blower
motor too found this blower motor today its under the right side finder and
isnt hooked up but found where the wires hook up at..but im missing the box
that goes on the firewall it used to have ac but im not going to be putting
it back on so if anyone can help me keep warm this winter id love your help
! ? :)

Todd (todd@wvadventures.net)
____________

Todd,

I must admit, I'm a little confused by your description.  On the 68-72
A-body cars, the blower motor is mounted to the "box on the firewall", so
if that plenum box is missing, I'm not sure how you can have a blower motor
under the fender (unless it's just hanging there loose).  When you say the
box is missing, do you mean the half of it in the engine compartment?  Note
that this fiberglass box is molded in two parts and bolted together.  The
split line is about where the evaporator goes.  Half of the plenum box is
under the right side fender - this is the part that holds the blower motor.
In order to get the air ducted to the passenger compartment, you will
either need to reinstall this plenum (with or without the evaporator core)
or convert to a heater-only plenum.  The latter option will require you to
change out everything else in the car's HVAC system (firewall and
under-dash plenums, heater core, slide controls on dash) in addition to
plugging the excess holes that will be left in the firewall.  I vote for
the former approach.  Note that if you use the original A/C plenum and
choose to leave the evaporator core out of the plenum assembly, you'll need
to plug the two holes in the plenum box where the evaporator tubes exit.

Andy Green has already described the blower motor wiring, so I won't repeat
that.  He's pretty good with electrons.  He has a special way with rear
window defoggers, too.  ;-)

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 09:21:48 -0000
From: "CES Inc." <testces@netins.net>
Subject: converting to a smaller brake power booster.

I am trying to find a 9" or 7" brake power booster that will fit 67
cutlass.

Mondello has one but for $300.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 10:35:44 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Mr. Pinkstaff's emmissions stance

In a message dated 98-09-22 18:23:50 EDT, you write:

<<  If  you drive your car everyday like I do, your car should have to pass
just  like everyone else's. It's not like the limits are strict on the older
vehicles anyway. If your car can't pass the old car standards, it shouldn't be
on the road. Mr. Hankey is 29 years old, has over 150,000  miles on an engine
that has never been out of it, and he passed with flying colors. I've only
bothered to change the oil once in the last 15,000 miles so it's not upkeep
either. >>

Hear, hear, well spoken Bruce!
Dual Cat's will NOT help me financially, but I will be able (provided a good
Cat selection) to state that my vehicle emits less pollutants than the typical
taxi hereabouts!

<< A last note, the MD treadmill test is being done at 50 miles an hour. Can
you imagine trying to put a car like my H/O(4.33:1 rear) on one of
those?!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! >>

If I am not mistaken isn't that low RPM for you?
Part throttle should get the best mileage/efficiency, right?
How's your volumetric effieciency?

<< Brent Pinkstaff
 '70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass poo)

PS- Before anyone decides that I am, I'm not a hippie. I own several firearms,
eat lots of red meat, think that most emissions laws are crap, etc. I just am
sick of getting behind cars that are blowing smoke and are still on the road.
>>

I have ordered a pizza with pepperoni, salami, beef AND ham, am not a "bunny
hugger", own firearms (interesting aside - one is a Mauser that fires the old
0.313" J88 cartridge that is just smaller than the 0.318" 8mm Magnum and just
like NOS sheetmetal is difficult to come by. - What is it with me and
antiques?), and since I work with a Hazardous Waste disposal company, I know
for a fact that we generate much more EVIL waste than we realize.

Further (but related aside) aside - one thing I found on the EPA site that I
wished that I could post to the list was a bar chart (histogram?) with a curve
overlay which showed that although emissions (particularly CO) have been
tracked and regulated since 1968, and emmisions have dropped overall, so many
*more* people drive now than then that the actual levels of passenger vehicle
pollutant CO has increased since 1968!

Sad to say that my children (heaven forfend that I should procreate!) may see
the carcass of the world I helped to slay.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 10:35:47 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: CA emmisions was: www.epa.gov - emmissions

In a message dated 98-09-22 23:17:10 EDT, you write:

<<  3)  California unquestionably has the worst smog problem of any state >>

Legendary, to Americans.

But, in Mexico City the Ozone is so bad that you can get full-face respirators
(filter masks) from street vendors.

Also, Chicago does not have a smog problem. Largely because the surrounding
geography is largely flat, and typical windspeeds are decent, as a part of the
way Lake Michigan affects our weather patterns.
The wind blows the smog away before the really nasty transitory molecules have
an opportunity to form in the smog!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 10:35:46 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Barbw problems and Octane and emissions

In a message dated 98-09-22 23:14:57 EDT, you write:

<<  Part of the problem results from the carburetor itself (which is not the
original one that came with the car - its a long story), lousy carburetor
overhauls and total incompetence of the mechanics doing the work. All that
aside, just over a year ago I switched from 87 octane unleaded fuel to 92
octane and to that I added an octane booster.  No difference (at least for
now; I'll reserve final judgment until after the right carburetor gets
installed).  This bloody "cleaner" fuel better not be causing the need for
annual carburetor overhauls. >>

Annual?

Perhaps you *should* go into the carb story! It may well be the source of the
problem! As there were many different versions of the Q-jet, you could have
one that is totally inappropriate for your vehicle, or jetted wrong, or......

Octane.
As a former employee of a local Clark station, I can tell you that the "mid-
grade" gasoline is definately something to be leary of!
It is actually a 60/40 blend of regular and premium that is blended in lines
that feed the pump!

Yeah!

While the Octane ratings for Reg. and Prem. are averages of two
characteristics, "mid-grade" is a blend of the two and whatever their
characteristics are!

There was a good Ch*tty Craft article about two years ago about what the two
qualities were and how even though the average was the same you could still
get crummy gas by one quality being too high and the other too low!

Further; Joe Mondello posits that pump gas loses 1-2 Octane points after
leaving the pump and sitting in the tank. Whatever that means.

Addresing a Q by DYeager - Benzene - Gasoline is distilled from petroleum. In
the distillate are actually several chemical species. All are organic (non-
polar, water is polar, water and gas do not mix, polystyrene is polar, gas
will dissolve foam coffee cups!). The problem is that even if you manage to
catch only molecules of a certain weight range (Benzene is more related to
cyclohexane than any true octane) you will still get contaminants of other
species to some degree. True, benzene is nasty and should not be taken
externally, never mind internally. thus the EPA regulation on Benzene content.
In effect the EPA is regulating Petroleum/gasoline companies from taking
shortcuts in their distillation processes that allow more contaminants.
(Benzene does burn, but that fraction that will be in the non-combusted
fraction....)

Yikes!
Fortunately that was not intended to be a short note.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 10:35:47 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Speedbleeder

<< http://www.speedbleeder.com >>

Yup.
First heard of 'em a year or more ago!
They offer the fitting in several sizes (at like $7-8 apeice??  gotta lookup)
to fit many applications. Karl just been too busy to bother to find out what
size he needed.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 10:06:55 +0000
From: pipe <banner@kwom.com>
Subject: Three Simple Questions

I have couple of Q?s I hope you guys can help me with.
No. 1
A friend and I are rebuilding  a 70 442 and he took out the
engine out but did not label the wires. Now the problem is
when I place the battery in and connect the battery cables
they spark and the starter tries to turn over. Is the starter
hooked up backwards or is there a ground problem?
No. 2
Are electric fans worth putting in. Do they keep the engine
as cool as belt driven fans?
No 3
This question may sound sophomoric but I don't know how
to define the weights of oil. 10W40, 5W30, 15W30.
What does the first number stand for? And the second?
Thanks;

James
70 442
70 Cutlass conv. + parts car
72 Cutlass conv.
74 Olds 98 + parts car

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 11:07:59 -0400
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: RE: Three Simple Questions

On Thursday, September 24, 1998 6:07 AM, pipe [SMTP:banner@kwom.com] wrote:
> I have couple of Q's I hope you guys can help me with.

I can help you on 2 and 3.

> No. 2
> Are electric fans worth putting in. Do they keep the engine
> as cool as belt driven fans?

Not in my experience, especially with towing.  Even in general, though, a real
clutch fan connected to the water pump pulley will pull much more air than an
electric fan will.

> No 3
> This question may sound sophomoric but I don't know how
> to define the weights of oil. 10W40, 5W30, 15W30.
> What does the first number stand for? And the second?

The higher the number, the thicker viscosity, therefore, the higher temperature
to use it in.
 10W30 is 10-weight oil blended with 30-weight oil.  Some folks use straight
10-weight oil in the winter and straight 30-weight oil in the summer, but most
use 10W30 year-round.  If you lived in Texas this summer, maybe 10W40 oil
would've been a good choice.  :-)  5W30 is for use in climates a little bit
cooler than 10W30 is rated for, although in my opinion, if you keep the oil
changed regularly, 10W30 will keep you running smooth all year.

Hope this helps...

Jason Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
E-Mail: jadcock@vt.edu
Web: http://www.cslab.vt.edu/~jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 11:34:05 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: White smoke

In a message dated 98-09-23 14:36:34 EDT, you write:

<< For every gallon of gas you burn, you generate almost a gallon of
 water vapor. When the exhaust system is cold, the vapor condenses
 before it can make it out the tailpipe, and you see a drip, drip,
 drip. That's also why short-trip cars tend to rust out the bottom
 of their exhaust pipes and mufflers. Once the car is fully warmed
 up, the dripping will stop.
  >>

Andy.

I've coated the inside of my exhaust (tail) pipes with hi temp paint and
eliminated the rust that used to occur. Make sure to use 1500 deg, not 500, I
did mine red to look cool, but it soon turned black (still no rust) and still
looks cool. My 2 bits.
Bruce
75 Delta conv.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 11:34:00 EDT
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Responding to UNBOUNCEd Posts

Just wanted to mention that as "Sparky" G. Kalkhoff was recently on the list,
I was puzzled by the recent Unbounce from him.

I did send to him amd the list, to cover all possibilities.

I have heard from Greg K. since then, and he seemed more concerned about the
possibility of my acquiring more 1966 Toro parts for him. So I guess his smoke
prob is settled to his satisfaction.

Sweet ride.
Too bad it needs internals work.
But then again, 120K+ is high time.....

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1504
*********************************
